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diff --git a/78603-0.txt b/78603-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..da9fe13 --- /dev/null +++ b/78603-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7139 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78603 *** + + + + +Transcriber’s Notes: + + Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold= + in the original text. + Small capitals have been converted to SOLID capitals. + Illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs. + Typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected. + + + + +[Illustration: GOLDSMITH MAID, WITH TRACK HARNESS.] + + + + + THE + HARNESS MAKERS’ + ILLUSTRATED + MANUAL. + + SECOND EDITION. + + A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK FOR MANUFACTURERS AND MAKERS + OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC., + + CONTAINING + + DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING + LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR + CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD, + COUPÉ, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM + HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.; + + RECIPES FOR PREPARING BLACKINGS, STAINS, OILS, + AND LEATHER VARNISHES; + + HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS; + + NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND + ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR + STYLES AND KINDS. + + ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP. + BY + W. N. FITZ-GERALD, + + NEW YORK. + 1880. + + Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, + By WM. N. FITZ-GERALD, + in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + HARNESS LEATHER. + PAGE + The peculiar Characteristics of Leather—Test by which + the Quality may be determined—Effect of strong Acids in + Coloring—Impure Oils—Kinds of Harness Leather—Oak, + Hemlock, and Union Tanned; the Nature of each—Hides + suitable for making Harness Leather—Causes of “Gum, + Spew, or Fry”—The Effect of Dampness—Weights to be + selected for all Kinds of Harness—Grain Leather for Folds 21 + + CHAPTER II. + RUSSET LEATHER. + + Selecting Rein Leather—Stains—Comparative Value of + good and poor Stock—Hand Part Leather—Graining in + the Workshop—Buff Leather—Loop Leather—The Necessity + of a Mellow Grain; uniform Thickness unimportant—Buying + Leather—Weight Stock—Unreliability of the rough + Brand—Backs—Cropping—Trimmed Stock 33 + + CHAPTER III. + PATENT LEATHER. + + Glazed Leather—The Uses to which it is put—Quality of + Hides—Splits, how designated—The Effect of Splitting + upon the Grain—Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing—Enamel + Leather—Texture, Color, and Finish—Stretching Leather + injurious to the Fibre—Care of Patent Leather—When the + best Leather is made—July and August unfavorable months 40 + + CHAPTER IV. + CUTTING HARNESS. + + How to cut to avoid Waste—Value of Scraps—The + Responsibility of the Cutter—Illustration of a Side of + Weight Stock—Directions for Cutting—Dividing the Side + to the best Advantage—Objections to the Splitting Machine + —Cutting a Harness from one Side—Illustration of a trimmed + Side—Weight—Details for Cutting the different Straps 45 + + CHAPTER V. + PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER. + + Wetting the Stock—Drying—How long to soak—Testing + Strap—Trimming the Flesh Side—Applying Tallow—Straps + not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out—Cleaning + and Slicking—The Effect of recurrying—Blacking Leather + for a Single-Strap Harness—Wetting common Stock 53 + + CHAPTER VI. + MEASURING FOR HARNESS. + + Lack of System—Result of improper Lengths—Length of Hame + Tugs—Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers—Harness + for Horses of different Sizes—Lengths governed by Localities 58 + + CHAPTER VII. + TABLES OF LENGTHS. + + No. 1. Single-Strap Track Harness—No. 2. Single Road + Harness—No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar)—No. 4. + Single Harness (Hame Collar)—No. 5. Heavy Coupé Harness + —No. 6. Double Road Harness—No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness + —No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness—No. 9. English Four-in-Hand + —No. 10. Tandem—No. 11. Single Express—No. 12. Heavy + Express—No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness—No. 14. Long Tug Farm + Harness—No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees—No. 16. + Adjustable Pad Double Harness—No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon + Harness—No. 18. Stage Harness—No. 19. Bitting Harness—No. + 20. Cart Harness—No. 21. Mule Harness—No. 22. Short Tug + Butt Chain Harness—Trimmings for Carriage Harness 64 + + CHAPTER VIII. + DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS. + + Result of Neglect in learning the Trade—Want of System— + Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison— + Wetting the Stock—Skiving and slicking the Straps—Fitting + up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace—Finishing the + Edges—Prepared Tallow—Gum Tragacanth—Cutting and preparing + the Patent Leather—Finishing up Rounds—Making Docks— + Importance of good Patterns—How to prepare the Patterns 112 + + CHAPTER IX. + MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS. + + Its Origin—Skill required in making up—How to attain the + best Results—Steer Hides the best—Weight of Side required + —Sectional Drawings—Safety Strap—Half Kemble Jackson check 122 + + CHAPTER X. + DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS. + + Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness—Selecting Stock— + Weights to be used—General Directions for cutting and + fitting—Pads—Filling Folds—Bridles, the Importance of + proper Proportions—Lines, Lengths—Mountings, the Importance + of Strength—Stitching to be done with white Thread—Coarse + stitching the strongest—Fitting and stitching Traces—Final + Finish—Heavy ornamental Truck Harness—Bridles, Coach Style + —Wheel Harness without Pads—Traces and Safes, how cut— + Lead Harness—Loin Straps—Mountings—Collars 128 + + CHAPTER XI. + MAKING GIG SADDLES. + + Cleaning and treeing up the Tree—Preparing the Seat + Leather—Preparing the Frame—Making Jockeys—Flopping + off—Making Loops—Cutting and fitting Points—Back + Bands—Quality of Leather—Making the Pads—Stuffing— + Materials used—Changing Shape of Patterns 139 + + CHAPTER XII. + PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS. + + Improvements—Patent Pads—Directions for making Coach + Pads—Socket Piece, how to cut—Fitting up—Cutting + Felt for the Pad—Stitching, etc—Hair-stuffed Pads— + Directions for making—Soft Pad illustrated—Cutting Tops + and Sides—Hard Pad, Directions for making—Illustrated— + Plain Pads, Directions for making 149 + + CHAPTER XIII. + MAKING HARNESS LOOPS. + + Kinds of Loops in use—Patent Loops, how made—Advantages + of hand made Loops—Selecting Stock—Wetting the Leather + —Fullness necessary—Creasing—Back Clamp Iron—Working + up Sides before creasing—Coloring and finishing—Pressed + Loops, stitching on—How they are made—Time needed to press + —Variety of Patterns—How cheap Harness are improved by + their use 161 + + CHAPTER XIV. + STITCHING HARNESS. + + The End to be attained—Thread, Size and Number of Strands + —White Thread the strongest—Making up the Thread—Waxing + before twisting—The Kind of Wax for specific Purposes— + Importance of Care in Stitching—How the Stitches are laid + —Irregularity produced by not drawing the Threads evenly + —To cause both Sides to appear alike—Points to be observed 168 + + CHAPTER XV. + MAKING ROUND REINS. + + Good Stock a Necessity—Directions for Cutting—Dampening + the Leather—Making the Stop—Marking off for the Billet— + Filling up and rounding—Board Iron, how made—Rounding and + trimming—Stain, how made—Advantage of using Shellac—Rein + Ends, illustrated 175 + + CHAPTER XVI. + COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES. + + The most ornate Part of the Harness—Winkers, Style and + Finish—“Hinging”—English Coach Bridle Cuttings— + Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles—Crown Pieces 182 + + CHAPTER XVII. + RIDING BRIDLES. + + Uniformity of Style—How they are named—Cuttings for various + Kinds—Illustration—Leather used—English Russet—Buff + Leather—Stitching not used for ornamenting 196 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + HALTERS. + + The Varieties—United States Government Halter—Spanish + Halter—French Halter—Training Halter—Bitting Halter + —Stable Halter—Yankee Halter—Double Cheek Halter— + Slip Halter—Team Halter—Cuttings and Illustrations 205 + + CHAPTER XIX. + HORSE BOOTS. + + Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots + —Directions for making—Illustrations for Weights—How made + —Illustrations 224 + + CHAPTER XX. + HARNESS MOUNTINGS. + + Classes and Styles—Plated, close and electro—Grades of Silver + for Close Plate—How to determine the Quality—Electro Plate + less durable, but cheaper—Tarnishing not an Evidence of Impurity + —Gold Plate—Nickel—Its Color and Advantages—Brass not popular + —Oroide, its Color—Not desirable except as a Base for Gilding + —Aluminum the most expensive Metal—German Silver, its + superiority as a white Metal—Covered Mountings—Leather and + Composition—Leather used—Liability to rip—Improvements made + —Rubber-covered—When patented—Description of Process of + Manufacture—Celluloid-covered—Description of Manufacture— + Tinned—XC Plate—Japanned—Patented Styles—Illustrations of + Terrets, Hooks, etc. 249 + + CHAPTER XXI. + BUCKLES. + + Patent Trace—Harness—Trace—Collar—Center Bar—Popular + Styles—Illustrations 271 + + CHAPTER XXII. + BITS AND BITTING HARNESS. + + Brutal Devices—Popular Styles—Snaffle—Dexter—Hanoverian— + Half Cheek Trotting Snaffle—Metals used—Steel not desirable + —Unreliability of Malleable Iron—System of numbering—How + designated—Illustrations—Bitting Harness—Wooden Jockey, + illustrated—Patent Jockey, illustrated 281 + + CHAPTER XXIII. + REPAIRING HARNESS. + + As important as making new Stock—False Directions—Cleaning + the Leather an important Consideration—When to repair— + Cleaning the Surface before oiling—How to soften old Leather + —Pure Neat’s-foot Oil the best—Castor Oil, its qualities— + Tallow the only reliable Grease—How to apply Grease—Gum, + how to remove it—Patent Leather—Varnish only will restore + the Lustre—How to clean 290 + + CHAPTER XXIV. + CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE. + + Durability dependent upon Treatment—Consumers not acquainted + with the Peculiarities of Stock—The great Destroyer—Care of + Harness in Stock—White Mold—Importance of removing it + immediately—Cleaning Mountings—Pegs for hanging Harness—Daub, + how made—How to keep Russet Strapping—The Manufacturer’s duty + to his Customers—Directions for the Care of Harness in the + Stable—Mountings not to be scoured—How to clean 296 + + CHAPTER XXV. + LEATHER BLACKING. + + Stains, Varnishes, and Polishes 302 + + CHAPTER XXVI. + RECIPES. + + Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness Room 317 + + + + +INDEX OF PLATES. + + + Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness Frontispiece. + + PAGE + Double Road Harness 20 + Coupé Harness 33 + Phaeton Harness 53 + Coach Harness 61 + Breast Collar, Single Harness 113 + Hame Collar, Single Harness 122 + Team Harness 129 + Heavy Draft Harness 137 + Georgia Wagon Harness 161 + + + + +PREFACE. + + +This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a +condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom, +and stable. It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by +the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses; how +to cut, fit, and finish; measuring for harness; complete tables for +lengths and widths for cutting the various classes in use, whether for +the carriage, farm, or road; bridles, halters, horse boots, mountings, +bits, etc. + +The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used +by the trade, and guides for making up. + +In the hints on repairing and caring for harness, a large amount of +information is furnished the manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed +form. The recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes, etc., have +been tested and found reliable; the whole making a methodical manual +indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to every +horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is +the only book of the kind published in the English language, and +supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the +subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The +author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the +instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated. +Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation +will be compensated for. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The manufacture of saddlery and harness, exclusive of all collateral +branches, stands thirty-fourth in magnitude out of the two hundred +and fifty-eight specified industries tabulated in the census report +of 1870. At that time there were in the United States 7,607 saddlery +and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557 workmen; all +but 841 were males above 16 years of age; employing a capital of +$13,935,961; paying in wages $7,046,207; for materials, $16,068,310; +and producing goods to the value of $32,709,981. Missouri stands first +in the list in value of products, but fifth in the number of workmen +employed, and second in the wages paid. New-York stands second in value +of products, first in every other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio, +Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order. + +By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the +workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole +country in 1870, and $10 above the average of 1860. + +There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of +establishments exceeds those of saddlery and harness, and in view of +this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good. The harness +maker is called upon to supply harness, saddlery, etc., for 7,145,370 +horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785 animals; yet +the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head for each +animal—a figure disproportionately small, and one which explains, in +part at least, why the trade is less prosperous than it should be. Were +it a business which required the investment of a large capital, the +case would be different; but as it is, the investment of a few hundred +dollars enables a man to engage in a small business which returns him +a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if conducted in +a proper manner. The harness maker supplies an article of absolute +necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices below fair +business rates. If each man in the business would properly estimate the +cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage of profit, +there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness of the +harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed to give +information of a practical character to the trade, which will enable +those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic manner. If +this end is accomplished, it will be one important step toward making +the business a profitable and pleasant one. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS.] + + + + +THE HARNESS MAKERS’ ILLUSTRATED MANUAL. + + +CHAPTER I. + +HARNESS LEATHER. + +Before entering upon details respecting the practical work of the +harness maker, I shall give some general directions regarding the +various kinds of leather used, its adaptation to specific grades and +patterns of harness, together with such other details as may serve to +assist the manufacturer in selecting his stock. + +The familiar adage, “There is nothing like leather,” is an old one, and +it is true in more senses than one. In the first place, leather is an +article of such peculiar structure that those who have spent a lifetime +in working it can not give any reliable rules by which an inexperienced +person may judge to a certainty of its quality. The grain may be fine, +close, and to the eye all that can be desired, the flesh side smooth, +of good color, and finely finished, and yet the quality be such as to +condemn it as soon as it gets into the hands of the workman. On the +other hand, the grain may be coarse and the flesh side badly cleaned, +and yet, for actual wear, it may be of good quality. The hides from +which it was made may have been taken from old or poorly fed cattle, +insufficiently tanned, badly curried with cheap oil and tallow, stuffed +to weigh heavy, blacked with strong acids, which have passed through +the grain and rendered it hard and brittle, of uneven thickness, the +shoulders thin and unfit for general use; all of which faults are of a +serious nature, and yet a long experience, by which the eye and touch +are so educated as to detect almost by intuition defects other than the +most prominent, is the only safe and reliable guide as to the actual +merits of the leather. + +There are, however, a few leading tests which assist in the acquiring +of the needful experience. The character of the hide before it was +tanned may be ascertained, in most cases, by close examination. It is a +well-known fact that cattle raised in certain sections of the country +produce much finer grained hides, possessing in a greater degree the +firm, elastic nature necessary for the production of harness leather, +than those raised in other sections. If the hide has been taken from an +old and poor animal, the grain will be coarse, uneven, and irregular, +the neck hard and rough, the flanks thick and flabby, and the +shoulders and hips thin and baggy; if from a young, well-kept animal, +the grain will in most cases be fine, close, and even, the flesh side +smooth and of a good color, and the whole side of nearly uniform +thickness. Grub holes are a sure indication of poor hides, but, as +they can be so easily detected, it is unnecessary to caution buyers to +avoid all having these defects. Short tannage is a very common fault, +but it is one that can be detected by cutting a strip from the hide and +wetting the freshly-cut edge with the tongue: if the color is uniform +throughout, and the cut edge presents a smooth and glassy appearance, +instead of being covered with fine fibres, the tannage is good. If, on +the other hand, the cut edge presents a fuzzy appearance, feels harsh +and rough when dry, and shows a white or light-colored strip through +the center when wet, it is insufficiently tanned, and the wider this +light strip the poorer is the tannage. + +It frequently happens that leather which has been well tanned is +injured in the currying, and it is much more difficult to detect faults +arising from this source than those due to short tannages. The grain +may have been injured while being tanned, but it is just as liable to +injury from the use of strong acid blacks, which, while giving it a +deep black color, cause it to become hard and brittle. The best and +most reliable test for detecting this fault is to bend a narrow strip, +flesh sides together, and close it down between the teeth; if the grain +is hard and brittle, it will surely break off short, so as to show +the natural color of the leather underneath. If, however, the leather +is extra heavy, this test will be likely to rupture the grain, whether +the quality be good or bad; but if good, it will have the appearance of +having been torn asunder instead of broken off short. If the hard grain +has been produced by strong acids, which have burned it, a freshly-cut +edge will show to what depth they have penetrated, and there will be +black streaks well down into the fibres below the grain. The use of +impure oils or grease is also a source of much annoyance, it being very +difficult, in fact almost impossible, to detect the fault until after +the harness has been made up and exposed for a time in the showcase, +when the tell-tale gum-spots will appear on the surface, exposing the +fraud, though not until the manufacturer has suffered much loss by +the depreciation in the value of his harness. It sometimes happens +that these gum-spots will appear upon the grain before the side has +been cut. When this is the case the leather may be treated as we have +directed in Chapter V., and future gumming will be prevented. + +These points seem to assist in the detection of the above-mentioned +faults, but they can not be relied upon under all circumstances; +frequent handling and close observation will alone give the eye and +touch the training necessary for the intelligent selection of the +different qualities. Good leather, in the language of one of the best +known and most experienced men in the harness leather trade, should +be “solid, but not hard; mellow, but not soft”—qualities that can not +be explained, but which can be detected instantly by one who has the +requisite experience. In this country there are three kinds of leather +employed by harness makers—namely, oak, hemlock, and union (oak and +hemlock) tanned, all of which are used to a considerable extent. All +other conditions being equal, however, oak-tanned leather is by far +the best. It is firmer, but not so hard as hemlock, the fibre is finer +and more dense, and, as a natural result, is not so easily affected +by water; it also works up finer, takes a much better finish, is more +easily worked, and possesses more of the qualities indispensable to +the production of good harness—strength and pliability—than any other +tannage. Hemlock leather is harder; of a dark red color, which greatly +interferes with its taking a good black, and also causes the latter +to assume a dingy brown appearance on exposure to the elements; the +grain is more open and appears coarser; it wets up quickly, and does +not dry out as soft as does oak leather; it is harder to stitch, and +is inferior in strength, particularly when the strap is placed in a +position where the strain comes on a short bend or on the edge. It is +also much heavier. A side of hemlock will weigh from eight to ten per +cent more than a side of oak leather of equal spread and thickness, +a difference that makes up for the margin in price between the two +kinds. “Union” leather is either tanned with mixed oak and hemlock +liquors, or first tanned with hemlock, and afterwards retanned with +oak, the latter operation giving it a much lighter color than it +originally possessed; in some cases the color on the flesh side being +so light as to deceive the buyer who is unacquainted with this kind +of leather. The grain is close and, as a rule, finer than either oak +or hemlock, but for harness this leather is inferior to oak in every +respect, and but a little better than hemlock. It weighs nearly as +heavy as the latter, and possesses no qualities that recommend it to +the buyer who desires good stock. + +In some sections of the country, hemlock leather is made with much +care, the hides being closely selected, well tanned, and curried with +the best oil and grease. Prepared in this manner, it gives satisfaction +when not brought into direct competition with oak-tanned stock; but, +no matter how much care may have been exercised, it is inferior to +oak-tanned leather with which the same pains have been taken, and there +is but one condition under which it should receive the preference, and +that is when the choice lies between inferior oak and superior hemlock. + +The following general advice may be of value to harness makers and +manufacturers of harness leather. Select hides of young steers or +heifers which were in the best condition when killed: they only possess +the requisites of fineness of grain, uniformity of thickness, and +strength of fibre. A cow or bullock hide is entirely unfitted for +this kind of leather; the butt of the former is liable to be thick +and the shoulder thin, while the latter will be thick at the head and +belly, thin and soft at the butt. Having found such a hide, examine +it further and see that it has not been damaged by scratches. These, +though apparently simple, are very injurious, as they can not be +entirely removed, and will show upon the grain as soon as the leather +is dampened by the workmen. See that there are no warble or grub holes +along the back. These are not likely to be found in hides taken from +cattle that are killed in the summer or fall. Next ascertain whether +the hide has been damaged by the butcher or not. If it has been cut, +it should never be used for harness leather. Length is an important +consideration, and many hides are seriously damaged in this respect +by the butcher having cut the animal’s throat from ear to ear, thus +shortening the hide by severing the cheeks from the body. + +Tanning, though not a portion of the harness maker’s business, should +be understood by him so far as to enable him to distinguish between +the various products. Oak-tanned is superior to any other now in use +because of its being tougher and more pliable; but even oak-tanned may +not be good. There are two general methods of tanning: one the sole +leather, by which the leather is made firm and hard; the other the +upper leather, by which the leather is made pliable and tough. By the +first method greater weight is secured, but the quality is unsuited to +the use of the harness maker. Some tanners follow the former method in +part, and thereby secure a greater weight, but they can not produce +a good quality. This leather can be detected while working it by its +hard, sole-leather-like character. It does not work well in rounds, +or when being raised, and is more likely to break when subjected to a +sudden strain. + +In addition to these features of tanning, there is what is known as +the short-tanned, this leather coiling like a piece of tin, and when +cut it shows a pale streak through the center. Then there is the limy +leather, with a loose, wrinkled grain, or puffed up beyond its proper +thickness, which will, upon being worked, stretch and fall away to its +natural substance. There is also the black-oak tannage. This leather +shows a greenish-yellow appearance in spots upon the flesh side. It is +soft, and possesses less strength than white-oak leather. Well-tanned +leather is too often injured in being curried; the use of poor oils and +grease causes the “gum,” “spew,” or “fry,” as it is known in different +localities; if properly curried with good oils, this pest of the +harness maker will not appear. Leather that has been well curried will +possess a surface free from roughness or wrinkles, and will be smooth +and silky to the touch. + +The buyer, therefore, should insist upon the seller furnishing him with +hides such as have been recommended, reasonably free from scratches, +warble or grub holes, or cuts by the butcher, of fine, mellow tannage, +and curried in the best manner with pure oil and grease. Perfection +is not to be expected; the harness maker should aim to secure leather +possessing the minimum of defects. Hard leather is sometimes made to +feel mellow and to appear tough by being moistened by the currier. +The dampness may be detected by placing the palm of the hand upon the +thickest part of the side. Such leather shrinks in weight, and proves a +poor purchase to the buyer. + +Next in importance to the procuring of a good quality of leather is the +selection of that which possesses the requisite weight and strength for +the kinds of harness designed to be made, and the particular parts for +which it is intended. + +So well is this understood by leading harness-manufacturers who make +up full lines, that they never cut a harness from a single side, but +select the leather carefully and use a specific grade or weight for +each particular strap; while the leading custom manufacturers purchase +or cut only backs of the best quality. The great majority, however, +buy their leather in small quantities, and by so doing commit the +error of not procuring a proper assortment. As a rule, they select the +weight best adapted to the greater portion of their work, and when +lighter stock is needed they resort to the splitting-machine, entailing +on themselves extra labor, and wasting no inconsiderable amount of +leather, besides materially weakening the straps thus manipulated, as +the portion of the flesh side which is removed is the strongest part of +the stock. + +If extra heavy straps are needed, three thicknesses of leather are +used, which in most cases calls for the use of the splitting-machine +to prevent overweight, whereby further loss is incurred. If, instead +of following this course, they would assort the sides so as to provide +themselves with a full line of weights, from six to twenty pounds +a side, they would at all times possess leather adapted to every +requirement except the heaviest truck harness, which calls for the +heavier grades. Light weights are needed for bridles, no matter what +kind of harness is to be made, and, as a rule, sides weighing fourteen +pounds and under can be cut to good advantage for this purpose. Traces, +back-bands, and breeching-straps require heavier leather, and hides +suitable for these particular straps should always be kept on hand. +A few years’ experience will enable any man to determine the proper +weights and proportions for his line of business, and he can procure +assorted stock just as easily as he can any single weight. + +Light road-harness of the best quality, whether single or double, is +made up of two thicknesses and stitched throughout. The leather used +should be of the finest quality of light weights, ranging from fourteen +to sixteen pounds to the side for the harness proper, and eight to +twelve pounds for the bridles, these weights being better adapted to +this class of harness than the heavier grades that need to be split in +order to reduce them to the required thickness. The grain is generally +fine and the fibre strong; it fits up well, retains its shape, and +finishes smooth and soft. + +The track-harness, which is now one of the most popular styles in use +for trotting-horses, is made up of single straps throughout, excepting +the back-bands. The leather best adapted to this style is that made +from fine-grained, young hides, the weight being about sixteen pounds +to the side for all but the bodies; these, being also single, should be +of a lighter weight, or they will have to be skived off on the under +side to prevent the edges curling up. For bridles, the same weight +should be used as for light road-harness. + +The medium grade of light single harness is generally made up with +single straps and lined points. For this style a heavier leather is +required, except for the bridle, in order to obtain the requisite +firmness and strength, the best weight being from sixteen to eighteen +pounds to the side. These weights also answer well for all grades of +single or double harness up to those requiring one and one quarter +inch traces, though it is better to use heavier weights for traces, +hold-backs, and back-bands. + +For light coach harness, the best weight is about eighteen pounds to +a side; but if extra heavy traces are used, it is better to select +leather sufficiently heavy to allow of the employment of only two +thicknesses, thus obviating the necessity of a filling-in piece. If +the latter is used, it should be of quite light leather. + +Coach and coupé harness require heavy weights, particularly for +traces, hold-backs, back-bands, and breeching-straps; for all other +straps, excepting bridles, eighteen to twenty pounds to a side are +good weights, but the latter should be made from sides weighing about +fourteen pounds. + +Light express harness, being made up of single straps, requires the use +of sides weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds each; the bridles, +however, should be made from stock of about the same weights as that +used for coach harness. These weights also answer well for farm and +the lighter grades of team harness, while heavy truck and cart harness +requires the use of the heaviest grades of leather in the market. The +above weights are those of the average spread of oak-tanned sides; +extra large or small hides, or those tanned with hemlock, may be gauged +by these. + +Grain leather is much used for folds, and, as a rule, the bellies, or +at least the lower portions of trimmed hides, answer well for this +purpose; though the finest, for coach and light harness, is made from +sides weighing sixteen pounds or under, while for team and truck +harness a heavier grade is required. + +[Illustration: COUPÉ HARNESS.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RUSSET LEATHER. + + +In selecting rein leather, the same tests as to quality should be +employed as with harness leather, as it is in every respect the +same with the exception that, instead of being colored black, it is +bleached, and afterwards stained brown or some other color. The latest +freak of fashion is to bleach it quite light and then color it with a +yellowish-brown stain, so as to produce what is known as cuir-color, a +very light, almost imperceptible brown; in fact, the shade is nearer +to the natural color of fine oak-tanned leather than any thing else, +and the stain used is more for the purpose of producing a uniform +shade than establishing a new color. When this color is employed, very +little stain is needed on the edges of straps to bring them up to the +same shade as the grain; and where it can be done, the harness maker +will find it to his advantage to procure of the leather-manufacturer +the same kind of stain as is used to color the grain, the beauty of a +russet rein depending quite as much upon its uniformity of color as +upon its make. The brown and yellow stains can be made very easily, +but those used to produce the soft, fine shades are part of the +leather-manufacturer’s stock-in-trade, and their preparation is kept +a secret, at least until fashion has adopted some new color as the +favorite. + +In selecting rein leather, it is bad policy to choose any thing but the +best quality. Poor leather works harder, does not keep its shape as +well, and takes a less uniform shade when stained, particularly when it +is short-tanned, as the untanned center presents a darker shade than +the portion that is well filled with bark. Then, too, if the grain is +hard it is liable to crack while being made up, or upon being bent +while in use. A pair of russet reins will contain about one pound of +leather, and the trifling difference in the cost between the highest +and lowest priced stock should not be sufficient inducement to the +harness maker to jeopardize the lives of his customers by the use of +inferior, unsafe reins. + +Hand-part leather, like that for the reins, should be of the very +best quality, and all the tests that are applied to other kinds are +equally effectual for this, while it should also be soft and pliant. +It is customary among harness makers who use but a small amount of +rein-leather to cut their folds for hand parts from the same side as +they do the rounds. + +This is a mistake, entailing additional cost without the gain of a +single advantage. Rein leather in most cases is too heavy for folds, +and must be split to reduce it to the proper thickness. This process +removes some of the strongest portion of the leather, besides occupying +the time of the workman. A cheaper and much better plan is to procure +handpart leather that has been made expressly for the purpose. It is +of lighter weight, much stronger in proportion to its thickness, and, +when cut to the proper width, is ready for the workman to make up. For +flat hand parts the leather should be equally as heavy as that used for +the rounds; it can be cut from the same sides as the rounds if desired, +but, as it is generally too hard, the workman is compelled to resort +to some method of softening it, such as pulling it around a post, +rolling and working, etc. For flat hand parts, grained leather is quite +popular, and looks well. + +When the harness maker can not readily procure this, he can obtain very +nice grained hand parts by boarding or breaking the grain in the same +manner as is done by the curriers, as follows: cut a piece of leather +from the side, of the full width needed for two pairs of hand parts, as +a piece of the requisite width for one pair would be too narrow to work +well; lay the strip on a table, the grain side up, and with a board, +such as is used by curriers, crease the grain, commencing at the front +corner on one end, and giving the leather a half roll diagonally across +the strip, continuing to work it at the same angle until the other end +is reached; then commence at the front corner of the other end, and +board it at the same angle as the first, until the end is reached where +the work was begun. By this means, the creases in the grain will cross +each other and form the distinctive feature from which the leather +gets its name. The fineness of the graining depends upon the amount +of labor applied. In a little time the workman will acquire all the +experience necessary for the production of a fine, even grain. + +To the harness maker using but little of this kind of handpart leather, +graining in this manner is a matter of economy. The labor needed to +produce the desired surface does even more than this, as it breaks down +and softens the leather, making it as pliant as can be desired. + +Buff leather is also much used for hand parts. It is made of the same +quality of stock as the other kinds, but is not stained, the grain +being buffed by the currier to remove the gloss and give it a white, +furried appearance. It is a soft, pliant leather, and is one of the +best kinds in use for hand parts, as, in addition to its softness and +good appearance, it will not soil the most delicate fabrics. + +Another light-colored leather, and one a good quality of which it is +difficult to procure, is that known as loop leather. This, unlike +the kinds before mentioned, is not curried with oil, or at least the +quantity of grease of any kind employed is very small. It must be +solid, and yet possess a mellow grain that will readily take a crease +and retain it. If in creasing up the work, one mark when placed in +close proximity to another obliterates it, or decreases its depth +in the least, a good piece of work can not be made, and only by the +exercise of the greatest care can even an ordinary job be produced. +If, however, the grain is mellow, each impression made by the creaser +becomes permanently set, and the adjoining one, no matter how near it +may be, is equally well defined. For this reason, in selecting a side, +make good tannage, mellow grain, and a solid body the tests. + +The lack of uniformity in thickness is a matter of no importance; +indeed, instead of being a detriment, as is the case with all other +leather used by harness makers, it is a positive advantage, as the +shoulders and other thin parts can be used for check and other light +loops, while the thick butts are of the proper weight for trace and +similar heavy loops, all the intermediate thicknesses being available +for the various loops for other parts. + + +BUYING LEATHER. + +In purchasing leather, the buyer is compelled to depend much upon the +honor of the seller in other respects than the determination of the +quality, excepting in the case of weight stock, which is sold by the +pound, the weight being ascertained at the time of sale. With trimmed +stock, however, the case is different in most markets. This leather +is marked with its weight while in the rough, and after it is trimmed +and curried there are no means of ascertaining the correctness of the +brand. It is claimed that a side of leather weighing eighteen pounds in +the rough will lose about four pounds in the currying and trimming. No +reliance however, can be placed upon this estimate; for if the flesh +side is not well cleaned, and the currier is desirous of misleading, +the leather may be stuffed with cheap oil until the finished is equal +to the rough weight. + +Backs as well as trimmed sides are sold by the rough weight, with an +additional charge of $1 and $1.50 each for dressing. Recently, however, +a leading New-York manufacturer has adopted the plan of selling backs +by their actual weight at the time of sale, the price charged being 82 +cents per pound, which is, as near as can be ascertained, the actual +cost of that bought by the pound, and to which an extra charge has been +added for finishing. The latter is the most simple method, and will no +doubt come into general use when the advantages are fully understood. + +The buyer, however, is at liberty to take or leave the bellies—in the +latter case the value by weight being deducted from the bill. These +weigh, as a rule, four pounds. Thus a side of leather which weighed +eighteen pounds in the rough, if properly fleshed and curried will lose +four pounds by this process and three or four pounds more by cropping, +leaving about eleven pounds of prime leather in the back, for which the +buyer pays as though in the rough stock—eighteen pounds, less the three +or four pounds deducted if the bellies are not wanted. Therefore, in +buying a back, 48 cents a pound would be charged for eighteen pounds +of leather, and $1.50 added for dressing, making the total cost $8.70, +after deducting for the bellies, leaving eleven pounds of prime +leather, to be paid for at a cost of about 80 cents a pound, or nearly +double the apparent quotation. + +In trimmed stock, the difference between the actual and the quoted +price is much less, but the buyer pays for the bellies as well as the +backs. The price charged per pound is, however, about 2 cents less +for the same quality, in which case an eighteen-pound side would cost +$8.28, and the actual weight would be about fourteen pounds, making the +leather cost about 59 cents a pound, a difference of about 21 cents a +pound between it and the backs. It will be seen by this that any false +branding of the rough weight causes a marked advance in the price, and +should teach the importance of buying trimmed stock of honest, reliable +men, and of avoiding speculators, who offer extra inducements in the +way of low prices, as the latter are sure to be made up by increased +weight. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +PATENT LEATHER. + + +Glazed, or, as it is more frequently called, patent leather is now +extensively used in the manufacture of harness, pads, gig saddles, +and winkers, they being seldom made of other kinds, while for +ornaments such as tabs, tug-ends, fronts, etc., it is deemed almost +indispensable; like plain leather, it is made both of good and poor +material, and finished to correspond. + +The finest quality is made of well-assorted hides, tanned with young +oak bark, weak liquors being used at first, and gradually strengthened +each day until the proper degree is reached, ample time being given +to thoroughly tan the leather before it is removed from the vats. All +hides that are to be used for thin leather are then split. + +The first split taken from the flesh side is small, and is known as the +“junior,” and is seldom finished in glazed stock; following this is one +or more full splits according to the thickness of the hide. The splits +are always finished smooth, the grain being largely used for enamel +leather, though it is also finished as grain, collar, binding, etc. + +Running the hide through the splitting-machine has long been +acknowledged to be detrimental to the leather, owing to the severe +strain to which it is subjected, but the introduction of the belt-knife +machine for splitting removes much of this objection, as the hide is +split without being strained in the least. The processes of varnishing, +drying, and finishing, while determining the quality of the leather, +are foreign to the business of the harness maker; but there are points +which he should understand in order to be able to judge of the quality +of the leather. The first of these is the condition of the finished +surface, which should be smooth, the coat of color and varnish being of +sufficient thickness to give a pure color, while on skirting, winker, +and other heavy stock the varnish should be thicker than on light +leathers, as these are seldom bent while being worked. Light leather, +such as collar and binding, is always worked over round frames, and if +the glazed coat is too heavy it is liable to crack, thus defacing the +surface. This is particularly the case with collar-leathers, which in +too many cases are but the thinnest splits, selected without regard to +their adaptability to the required purpose, whereas they should be of +extra soft stock, coated as thinly as possible with the best grade of +varnish. The severe treatment it receives while being shaped to the +collar is sure to impair the surface even of the best. The grades of +leather known as grain winker, skirting, collar, etc., command a much +higher price than that known as splits. With the thinner qualities +there is some advantage in using the grain, as the surface preserves +its original appearance much better after being worked than does split +stock; for winker and skirting, however, the grain does not possess any +special merit, except what it may gain from not being put through the +splitting-machine, as thin hides are selected, and they are reduced to +a uniform thickness by the knife. The varnish is applied to the flesh +sides, and is therefore open to the same objections as to split stock. +The prejudice against the latter is a senseless one, and harness makers +pay dearly for yielding to it and selecting grain stock at higher rates. + +Enamel leather is always made of the grain side, and its quality must +be determined by its softness to the touch, purity of color, and +fineness of finish. The prices of patent leather vary to an extent that +creates surprise in the minds of buyers who are unacquainted with the +causes. + +These exist from the very commencement. In the first place, the hides +themselves may be of an inferior quality. When they are limed and +prepared for the tanner, they may be placed in strong hemlock liquors +and partially tanned, after which they are split and then retanned in +oak liquor for the purpose of producing a light color. They are also +submitted to various manipulations, unknown to any but the initiated, +for the purpose of giving a good appearance to the leather without +increasing the expense, which in no way improves the quality. After +being otherwise prepared for the varnish, the hides are placed upon a +frame, and by means of powerful jack-screws stretched to their utmost +extent, whereby an increased measurement of from five to seven feet is +given to each. They are then glazed and finished to look as well as +prime stock, and can be sold at a marked reduction in price compared +with the former; but the buyer who imagines he has saved two cents a +foot by purchasing these hides pays for five or seven feet of leather, +the greater part of which is sure to be lost, in a few months, by +shrinkage. The worst feature of this excessive stretching is that the +leather, being extended to its utmost capacity while wet, can not be +worked smooth when used over irregular shapes, as all the stretch is +taken out of it while being manufactured. This cheap stock therefore +costs nearly as much as the best qualities, is more difficult to +work, and is less durable when put to actual use. The care of patent +leather in stock in order to prevent loss is a matter of considerable +importance. When practicable, all thick stock should be hung up in a +cool, dry room, while thin stock, both enamelled and smooth, should be +rolled, thin paper being placed next to the glazed surface. + +There is another matter that is well worthy the attention of +buyers—namely, the season in the year when the leather is made, this +having much to do with its durability. + +The best leather is produced in cool weather, the poorest during the +hot months of July and August. The latter is somewhat less liable to +become sticky when exposed to the sun, but it is almost sure to crack +during cold weather, sometimes when not in use, and there are very few +leather-manufacturers who are willing to warrant stock not made in +cold weather. Harness-manufacturers should therefore look well to this +matter, as cracked patent leather destroys the appearance of their work. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CUTTING HARNESS. + + +The cutting of harness leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure +that best suited to the requirements of each individual strap is a +subject of the first importance to every harness maker, no matter what +the extent of his business may be. Leather scraps are of no value, +though every piece has been paid for, while the use of the softest +and weakest part of the leather in straps that receive the greatest +amount of strain insures the production of an inferior harness, be it +ever so well made up. The cutter therefore lays the foundation for, +and upon his skill depends much of, the manufacturer’s success. In +large factories this is well understood, and the most skilful men are +employed at high wages to cut up stock. + +These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness and +kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there +being no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The +small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following +rules that have been adopted by those who have had years of experience +in the best shops of the country, he will not only save stock, but +produce much more durable harness. The cutter receives his leather +in three forms, known to the trade as weight stock, trimmed stock, +and backs; these are illustrated by Fig. I. The extreme outline shows +the side in full; this is sold as weight stock—that is, by its actual +weight at the time of purchase. The dotted line commencing at the root +of the tail and passing down the back end, along the belly and up +the front to the top, shows the general form of the hide after being +trimmed, though in some cases the trimming consists of merely cutting +off a few of the most prominent points and slightly straightening the +edges. The dotted line A, running parallel with the length of the hide, +indicates the bottom line of what is known as the back (the width of +which is governed by the condition of the hide itself), the line of +separation being drawn just above the thin portion of the flank, the +position of which is shown by the dotted line B, the ends being trimmed +the same as in trimmed stock. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +A harness maker who does a small business of a general nature will find +it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality; he can then +crop it, as it is called—that is, cut the side in two parts at or about +the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from in +cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, obviating the +necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the requisite +thickness, and also avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein by cutting +a small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do under +other circumstances. In cutting, there is one point that should not +be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the +splitting-machine to reduce the straps to the required thickness. This +machine materially facilitates the labor of the workman, but it is +positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is +possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works +nearly if not quite as expeditiously, and is in no way injurious. + +The cutter must first ascertain the actual condition of the hide he +proposes to cut up. If one hide is to be used exclusively for a single +harness, it must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and free from +blemishes; but if a number of harness are to be cut at one time, the +sides should be selected, the finest and most uniform in thickness +being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and +thin shoulders should be cut up in short straps, in the manner shown by +Fig. 1. + +The dotted line represents the straightened edge. If the back for a +few inches below this line is of suitable thickness for traces, that +portion of it between C and D may be used for this purpose, and all the +back end between D and A, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps, +such as hold-backs, martingales, breast straps, etc., for express or +team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps, +etc., for carriage-harness. The shoulder forward of the line E, being +thin, is admirably adapted to docks, and should be cut as shown by +lines X. Being cut across the grain, they work up smoothly on the +inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed +out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut +into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle chapes +and short billets, thus utilizing every part. + +To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely +different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the +different sections being shown by Fig. 2. + +A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about +sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen. + +The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A, +which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the +center of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock +to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel +with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss occasioned. +Having straightened the center cut of the tail as shown by line 1, +then measure off from line 1 the full length required for the traces +and reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line 1, and cut the +requisite straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly +straight, unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the +tail is shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line +by cutting off the small piece back of line 1, and cut the straight +cross-line 3, then measure from the back end the length required for +the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge +with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any +other straps from the back end. + +It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge +the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper +than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important +considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste +of leather. A very common fault of the cutters, and one that should +be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife at an acute +angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the +side of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously +slit off. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers +for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and +the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite +length for the turnback or hip-straps, cutting in on line 5, the same +lengths answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair +of each by cutting in the middle. Sections H and M may be cut up into +breast collar-layers, crown pieces, breeching-layers, neck-straps, +nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and, if not too heavy, into +check-pieces, throat-latches, and center check-pieces in the order +named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such +as checks, round throat-latches, etc., and section K into linings and +points, always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and +neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time +all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up. +The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy +flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used to good +advantage for linings to winkers. Section P, back of this, is just what +is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the leather +gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part +of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked +up into folds, cutting the breeching, breast-collar, neck-straps, +belly-bands, and crowns in the order named. The thick end back of the +flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle chapes, short +billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces +can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not +claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in +all cases, but by following the general order given, the cutter will +be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular +straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste. +Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the +section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are +removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the +straps requiring great strength are not crowded below the line A in +Fig. 1. + +[Illustration: PHAETON HARNESS.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER. + + +In the manufacture of fine harness, where the straps are to be worked +up full and to artistic patterns, the best quality of oak leather +should be used, as, it being well curried, the manner of working +it is less complicated than when commoner grades are employed. The +reason for this is, that only the firm portion of the leather is +used, the bellies, flanks, etc., being cut all off, leaving a narrow +strip called the back, from eighteen to twenty-two inches wide. This +leather requires to be moistened with a sponge and water, but there +are few harness makers who wet it to any considerable extent. The +practice, however, of one of the leading manufacturers of this country +is to place all the straps in a vat of water, allowing them to remain +immersed until the grain shows signs of the tallow coming to the +surface. They are then removed, wiped, and hung up until the surface +moisture is dried off, when they are handed over to the fitter, who +rolls the whole in a coarse cloth, afterwards taking them out one at a +time, and fitting them up. It is claimed that this treatment prepares +the leather for working up much better than when it is merely dampened, +and that the little oil and grease forced out can easily be replaced +without any detriment to the leather. + +Curriers, however, condemn this treatment of fine, well-finished stock, +but experience has shown that leather thus manipulated can be worked up +into the finest harness, the finish on the grain being soft and clear +and the edges smooth, the leather retaining its softness as long as +that which has only been moistened. While there is a marked reduction +in the labor necessary in fitting it up, it is evident that there is +something gained by pursuing this method. + +There is in the market large quantities of well-tanned but +poorly-curried stock. This is far preferable to poorly-tanned leather, +no matter how well it may be curried, if properly treated by the +harness maker. The right course to pursue with this quality is to +soak the leather until it is well moistened to the center, the length +of time necessary varying so greatly with different kinds that it is +impossible to give any other guides than the appearance of the grease +on the surface. The “testing-strap” is also sometimes employed. A +small scrap of the leather, being soaked, is placed in the water with +the straps, and when the workman thinks the leather is sufficiently +wet, he cuts this strap and ascertains whether or not the moisture has +penetrated to the center. When sufficiently wet, the straps are removed +from the vat and hung up until the surface moisture has dried off. +Each strap is then taken in hand, and if the leather has been badly +fleshed, a spokeshave is used to remove all the superfluous stock. This +is done by laying the strap on the bench, grain side down, securing the +end with an awl, and with a sharp tool cutting off the loose scraps and +thin, veiny portions. Care should be taken, however, to avoid cutting +away any more of the flesh side than is absolutely necessary, as the +leather is weakened by so doing. After being cleaned off, the leather +should be rubbed on the flesh side with a slicker, and laid out on a +board grain side down; then with brush give each strap a coat of melted +tallow, warm enough to run freely, but not sufficiently hot to injure +the leather, and brush it well to work in all the grease possible. +Allow the straps to remain coated with tallow for twelve hours at +least, by which time the moisture will have dried out and the tallow +have struck well into the pores of the leather. No bad results will +follow if the leather is allowed to remain a much longer time coated +with the tallow. + +After the leather has been in this state a sufficient length of time, +each strap must be placed upon a bench, grain side down, and secured in +the same manner as before mentioned; then with a glass slicker rub the +flesh side thoroughly, working in all the grease possible, the surplus +being removed by the slicker. Then turn the strap over, and rub down +the other side to set the grain and give it a fine appearance. + +If the straps are to be worked up full, it will not be necessary to rub +the grain side much, as the rubbing incident to the process of fitting +up will give it a fine finish. This recurrying is not done solely with +a view of improving the appearance of the leather, though this alone +would fully compensate the manufacturer for his trouble, the treatment +being equally beneficial to its wearing qualities, as the leather is +made more dense by the rubbing it receives, while the grease is worked +thoroughly into every fibre, causing it to become soft and flexible. + +With ordinary leather, this recurrying will reduce it in thickness +nearly one third without a particle of its original substance being +removed. The good effect is not so marked upon poorly-tanned leather +as it is on that which is well tanned but poorly curried, but the +improvement in the wearing qualities and appearance is sufficient to +make it profitable to expend labor in this direction. + +The leather used for single-strap track-harness should always be rubbed +on the flesh side as has been directed, in order to give a fine, +smooth, and perfect finish, which, after being blacked, will make the +flesh nearly equal to the grain side. Besides this, the increased +density given to the leather makes it possible to trim the edges +smoothly and finish them as finely as the grain, and as this latter +consideration is one of great importance to all who desire the harness +to appear smooth and true, they will find it greatly to their advantage +to follow the above directions when preparing their leather. Common +harness could be made to appear much neater than is generally the case +if the same course were followed in the treatment of the leather as +recommended for fine grades, but as the prices are usually such as to +render the carrying out of this system unprofitable, the leather can be +fitted up without extra labor, the straps being moistened by dipping +them into a pail of water, or by using a sponge. With this kind of +stock, no more water should be used than is absolutely necessary to +cause it to work up well. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +MEASURING FOR HARNESS. + + +A very large percentage of all the harness makers in this country look +upon the idea of measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration, +but the experience and observation of the most enterprising men in the +custom trade has convinced them that the reason why there are so many +ill fitting harness in use is because of the failure of so large a +number in the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern +other mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or +shortened to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse without +detriment; but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not +made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the +appearance as well as the durability of the harness. + +Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short +or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that +when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will +follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side: if this +position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the +swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be +likely to be drawn out of shape and the appearance of the harness be +marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious; if the tug is +sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the +pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back-band +of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the +hame tug itself. It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of +the horse from the collar to the girth is an important consideration. + +With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as +important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar; the +position of the neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the +collar and the wear of the harness. If the tugs are set too far back, +the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of +the horse, or it will be necessary to shorten the neck strap to such an +extent that an undue strain will be thrown upon it at the neck strap +tug when the trace is straightened. + +The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps, +girths, etc., are of equal importance; while the point of attaching +the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the +position of the winkers, all contribute much to the durability as well +as the appearance of the harness; yet there are those who ridicule the +whole idea of measuring, they depending entirely upon lengthening or +shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of buckles. + +Manufacturers who carry on an extended business and ship goods to all +parts of the country can not measure every horse; they have accordingly +adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse +upon which they are to be used. + +If a coach harness is to be made, it is supposed to be for horses +sixteen hands, or over, high, and is cut to those lengths that +experience has shown to be the most correct for such sized animals. If +a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for +horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for +a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of +lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A +light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half +hands high, while one for a coupé would be cut from the lengths suited +to horses sixteen to sixteen and a half hands high. Regular buggy +harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running +lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut +for heavier animals. + +The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close +observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule +is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or +subtracting four inches to girths, one and one half inches to breast +and breeching bodies, and three inches to hip and neck straps, for +every hand increase or decrease in the size of the horse. + +[Illustration: COACH HARNESS.] + +Such tables are always valuable to harness makers who are making up +stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for +different localities; but custom makers who do not possess these scales +of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be +made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well. + +In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the +mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this +for the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and +also two thirds the original length: this will give a cheek piece long +enough to allow the loose end to enter into the cheek loop about one +half its length; for the crown piece, measure from the root of the +ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other +side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat +latch billets; for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below +the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point +on the other side; for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the +measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the withers, +carrying the ends forward three inches to a point parallel with the +point where the throat enters the breast; determine the position of +the tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated +by the ends of the neck strap. To determine the length of the breast +collar, measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side, +around the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a +corresponding point on the other side. The girth measure must also be +taken. + +If the harness is to be made up with a long tug and market tug, +designate the exact location of the center of the girth, and measure +from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the +center of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back +of the center of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its +place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is +of the greatest importance: if it is too long or too short, the market +tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from +the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw +the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a +corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for +slack; for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the +crupper down to the point occupied by the body of the breeching, and +deduct three inches for the breeching tugs. + +The harness maker who has a well-assorted table of lengths of the +strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to +be fitted except in special cases. A set of lengths which are suited +to horses in one locality may be in part unsuited to those of another, +owing to the difference in their build, and it would be well in all +cases to test the lengths furnished before adopting them in full. + +In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author +has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not +claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any +tables of this kind can be. They represent a variety of styles suited +to the wants of all classes of customers, and can be followed with +safety. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +No. 1. + +SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown 23 1 + Cheeks 27 ½ + Throat latch 30 ½ + Front 21 ⅝ + Winker strap 12 1 + Split 7 ⅜ + Billet 5 ½ + Half Kemble Jackson check 25 1 + Split 12 ½ + Gag rein 24 ⅝ + Center piece 60 ⅝ + Billets 10 + + SADDLE. + Tree 3 + Flaps 21½ 2½ + Swell 2¾ + Points 9 ⅞ + Jockeys 4½ 2⅝ + Belly band 18 1¾ + Chapes 7 ⅞ + Shaft girth 29 2 + Billets 22 ⅞ + Back-bands 20 ⅞ + Shaft tugs 18 ⅞ + Safety strap 45 1 + Martingale, body 32 1⅜ + Bottom lay 11 ⅝ + Ring piece, round 17 ⁷/₁₆ + + BREAST-COLLAR. + Body 35 2 + Neck piece 38 1¼ + Ends ⅝ + Chapes 7 ⅝ + Traces 83 1 + Lap, on breast collar 11 + + BREECHING. + Body 38 2 + Layers 13 1⅛ + Hip strap 43 ⅝ + Tugs, round 11 ⅞ + Chapes 7 ⅝ + Turnback 44 1¼, ⅝ + Body 1¼ + Dock 14 3½ + Reins 72 ⅞ + Hand parts 84 1¼ + +No. 2. + +SINGLE ROAD HARNESS—ONE-INCH TRACE. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown layer 23 ⅝ + Cheek pieces 27 ½ + Winker strap 12 1 + Billet 5 ½ + Split, flat 7 ⅜ + Winkers 4½ 4 + Front 21 ⅝ + Throat latch 30 ½ + Gag reins 24 ¾ + Center piece 60 ½ + Billets 10 ½ + + BREAST-COLLAR. + Layer and trace in one 89 1 + Neck piece 48 ⅝ + + SADDLE. + Tree 2½ + Flaps 21½ 1¾ + Swell 2 + Jockeys 3¾ 1⅝ + Points 12 ¾ + Back-bands 20 ⅞ + Shaft tugs 19 ⅞ + Belly band 22 ¾ + Shaft girth 28 ¾ + Billets 22 ¾ + Martingale 41 ¾ + Bottom lay 19 ¾ + + BREECHING. + Breeching layer 45 ¾ + Hip strap 45 ⅜ + Breeching tugs, round 11 ⅞ + Buckle chapes 7 ⅜ + Breeching straps 48 ¾ + Turnback 44 ⅝ + Dock 15 3 + Reins, flat 72 ⅞ + Hand parts 84 1¼ + + FOLDS. + Crown 11 2¾ + Breast collar 39 3¾ + Neck strap 26 2¾ + Belly band 16 3 + Shaft girth 28 3 + Martingale 32 2¾ + Breeching 36 3½ + +No. 3. + +SINGLE HARNESS (BREAST COLLAR). + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 23 1⅛ + Billets 6 + Cheeks 29 ½ + Throat latch 28 ½ + Front, made up 12 ⅝ + Winkers 4½ 4¾ + Winker brace 13 1 + Billet 5½ ½ + Split, round 7½ + Checks 23 ¾ + Billets 9 ¾ + Center piece 60 ⅝ + + BREAST-COLLAR. + Body layer 44 ⅞ + at ends 1 + Neck straps 40 ¾ + at ends ⅝ + Tugs 7 ⅝ + Traces 78 1 + + GIG SADDLE. + Tree 3 + Flaps 21½ 2¾ + Points 9 ¾ + Jockeys 3¾ 2⅝ + Back-bands 21 1 + Shaft tugs 21 1 + Belly band 22 ¾ + Shaft girth 28 ¾ + Billets 20 ¾ + Martingale 42 1 + Bottom 19 ¾ + + BREECHING. + Body layer 46 ⅞ + Hip strap 44 ½ + Breeching tugs, round 11 ⅞ + Buckle chapes 7 ½ + Breeching straps 48 1 + Turnback 44 ⅝ + Body 1¼ + Split 8 ⅜ + Crupper dock 17½ 3 + + FOLDS. + Breast collar 36 3 + Neck piece 24 2¾ + Breeching body 37 3 + Belly band 17 2¾ + Shaft girth 28 2¾ + Martingale 3 2½ + +No. 4. + +SINGLE HARNESS (HAME COLLAR). + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 23 ⅞ + Split 6 ⅝ + Cheeks 27 ⅝ + Throat latch 28 ⅝ + Front 21 ¾ + Winker strap 12 1⅛ + Billet 5 ⅝ + Split, rounded 7 + Check reins 23 ¾ + Billets 8½ ¾ + Center piece 60 ⅝ + + HAMES, ETC. + Hame tugs 13 1⅛ + Hame straps, short 17 ⅝ + long 20 ⅝ + Traces 80 1⅛ + + GIG SADDLE. + Tree 3½ + Flaps 20 3½ + Points 14 ⅞ + Back straps 20 1 + Shaft tugs 20 1 + Belly band 22 ⅞ + Shaft girth 30 ⅞ + Billets 22 ⅞ + Martingale 35 ⅞ + Bottom lay 19 ⅞ + Ring piece 20 1¼ + Split 16 + + BREECHING. + Body 44 1 + Breeching straps 49 1 + Tugs 12 ¾ + Hip strap 44 ¾ + Turnback 44 ¾ + at hip 1½ + Crupper 18 3 + + FOLDS. + Crown 12 2½ + Belly band 17 3 + Shaft girth 28 3 + Martingale 33 3 + Breeching 37 3½ + +No. 5. + +HEAVY COUPÉ HARNESS. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown 23 1⅜ + Layer, cut to pattern 9 1½ + Cheeks 30 ⅝ + Front 22 1¼ + Winker straps 13 1½ + Billets 5 ⅝ + Split 8½ ½ + Winkers 6 5½ + Nose piece 30 1¼ + Ends at cheeks ⅝ + Throat latch 24 ⅝ + Round check 28 ⅞ + Billets 10 + Center check 72 ⅝ + + SADDLE. + Tree 4 + Flap 22 3¾ + Swell 4 + Point 12 1 + Jockey 5 3½ + Back-band (running) 46 1¼ + Shaft tugs 24 1⅜ + Belly band 26 1¼ + Shaft girth 30 1 + Billets 23 1 + Martingale 34 1 + Bottom lay 21 ⅞ + + HAMES, TRACES. + Hames, 4 pounds ¾ + Hame tug, made up 10½ 1¼ + Safes, full length 2½ + Loops 4½ + Traces 72 1¼ + + BREECHING. + Body layer 52 1¼ + Hip straps 48 + Center 1¼ + Swell 2 + Split 16 ¾ + Tugs 11 ¾ + Breeching strap 50 ⅞ + Turnback 60 ⅞ + Body 20 1¾ + Split 9 ¾ + Dock 19 3½ + Kidney strap 34 1 + Ornament 3½ 2 + + FOLDS. + Breeching 46 3¾ + Belly band 17 3½ + Shaft girth 19 3½ + +No. 6. + +DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 23 1 + Layer, waved 7 ⅝ + Cheeks 29 ½ + Gag runners 8 ½ + Throat latches 26 ⅜ + Winker straps 12 1½ + Split 8 ⅜ + Billets ½ + Winkers 5¼ 4¾ + Fronts 30 ⅝ + Checks 23 ¾ + Center parts 60 ½ + Billets 10 + + HAMES AND TRACES. + Hames ⁹/₁₆ + Hame straps 24 ⅝ + Hame tugs 1 + Safes 13 1½ + Loops 4¾ + Ends 5½ + Traces 80 1 + Spread straps 18 ½ + Link + + PADS. + Top 17 1⅜ + Sides 18 1¼ + Points 8 ¾ + Trace bearers 16 1 + Housings 24 2¾ + Belly bands 23 ⅞ + Turnback 44 ⅝ + Body 1⅜ + Split 9 ⅜ + Docks 14 3 + Standing martingales 64 ¾ + Chin parts 12 ½ + Short reins, rounded 55 1⅛ + Long reins, rounded 72 1⅛ + Hand parts 102 1¼ + + + BREAST COLLARS FOR PATENT YOKE. + Body layers 40 1 + Loops 4¾ 1 + Neck straps 43 1⅛ + Split, long ends 17½ ½ + short ends 14½ ½ + Tugs, short 2¼ ½ + Tugs, long 2¾ ½ + Billets on yokes 6 ⅞ + Yoke straps 11 1⅛ + Martingale 20 1 + Billets 12 ¾ + Safety straps 36 ⅝ + + FOLDS. + Belly bands 17 3½ + Breast collars 41 4 + Neck straps 8 4 + Martingales 32 3½ + +No. 7. + +SHORT TUG COACH HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 22 1⅜ + Cheeks 28 ⅝ + Fronts, made up 13 1⅛ + Throat latch 23 ⅝ + Winker brace 13 1¼ + Split, flat 8 ⅜ + Billet ends ⅝ + Gag runners 8 ⅝ + Winkers 5¾ 5¼ + Cheek loops 7¼ + Check reins 22 ¹³/₁₆ + Center pieces 60 ⅝ + + PADS. + Tops 17 + At bilge 2¼ + Center 1⅜ + Side pieces 26 1¾ + Trace bearers 16 1¼ + Lining 13 1⅜ + Point 10 ⅞ + Belly bands 24 ⅞ + Martingales 28 ¾ + Bottoms 16 ⅝ + Billets 13 ¾ + Standing martingales 60 ¾ + Mouth pieces 17 ¾ + Turnbacks 44 ⅞ + At docks 1¾ + Split 9 ½ + Hip straps 66 ¾ + Dock 18 2½ + + HAMES AND TRACES. + Hames ⅝ + Hame tugs 16 1¼ + Bottoms 13 2½ + Loops 4⅝ + Hame straps 28 ⅝ + Traces 81 1¼ + Spread straps 16 ⅝ + + FOLDS. + Belly bands 16 3½ + Martingales 30 3½ + +No. 8. + +LONG TUG COACH HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 23 1⅜ + Layers 9 + Cheeks 29 ¾ + Face pieces 12 ¾ + Ornaments 4¼ 2 + Nose pieces 14 1¼ + Ends ⅞ + Throat latches 26 ⅝ + Winkers 6⅛ 5¼ + Checks for swivel 30 ⅞ + Plain 23 ⅞ + Crown piece billets 8 ¾ + Center check[1] 60 ¾ + + HAMES AND TRACES. + Hames ¾ + Hame tugs, made up 16½ 1¼ + Safe 2½ + Loops 8 + Traces 84 1¼ + + PADS. + Top 16½ + Center 1¾ + Swell 2¾ + Housings 21½ + Center 3½ + Swell 5 + Pad sides 26 1⅞ + Points 10 1 + Market straps 20 1 + Swell 1½ + Market tugs 20 1 + Loops 4½ + Belly band, short 23½ ⅞ + long 35 + Martingales 27 ⅞ + Spread straps 18 ⅝ + Hame straps 28 ¾ + + BREECHINGS. + Layers 53 1¼ + Tugs 13 ¾ + Loops 4 + Hip straps 27 + Centers 1½ + Ornaments 2¼ + Split 19 ¾ + Turnbacks 32½ ¾ + Bodies 19 2 + Layers 12 ¾ + Crupper billets 8 ⅝ + Docks 17½ 3½ + Short reins 84 1⅓ + Rounded 55 + Long reins 84 1⅛ + Rounded 72 + Hand parts 108 1¼ + + FOLDS. + Belly band, short 17 3¾ + long 20 + Martingales 32 3½ + Breechings 48 4 + +[1] Other straps same as in No. 7. + +No. 9. + +ENGLISH FOUR-IN-HAND HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 23 1¾ + Chapes 2 ¾ + Cheeks 10½ ¾ + Billets 16 ¾ + Throat latches 27 ¾ + Nose bands, middle 12½ 1¼ + Buckle-ends 13 ¾ + Winker straps 14 1½ + Split 8½ + Face pieces 13 + Fronts 13 1⅜ + Winkers, square 6½ 6½ + Bearing reins 66 ¾ + Round reins 20½ 1⅛ + Running bradoons 26 1⅛ + Billets 9 ¾ + + PADS, ETC. + Tops 17 + Bottoms 21½ 2½ + Point straps 8 1⅛ + Girths 42 2½ + Girth pieces 15 2½ + Girth straps 16 1⅛ + Tug belly bands 52 1⅛ + + BREECHINGS, ETC. + Bodies 120 1½ + Hip straps 48 1⅛ + Breeching tugs 13 1½ + Trace bearers 18 1⅛ + Turnbacks 45 1⅛ + Layers 14 + Linings 59 1⅛ + Cruppers 22 1⅛ + Docks 16 3 + + TRACES, ETC. + Traces, made up 78 1½ + Draw leathers 8 1½ + Hame tugs 19½ 1½ + Safes 22 3 + At hame end 2 + Short tugs 10 1⅛ + Tug straps 18 ¾ + Bearing martingales 54 1¼ + Short martingales 42 1¼ + Leader traces, made up 60 1⅛ + Hame tugs 18 1⅛ + Safes 20½ + All other leader strapping, + narrower than wheelers ⅛ + + REINS. + Wheeler 13 feet 1⅛ + Couplings 9 ” 1⅛ + Billets 1 foot 1⅛ + Hand parts 6 feet 1⅛ + Leader reins 22 ” 1⅛ + +No. 10. + +TANDEM HARNESS.—LEAD-HORSE. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 23 1¼ + Layer 7 + Cheeks 29 ⅝ + Throat strap 26 ½ + Winker strap 12 1½ + Split 8 + Winker 5 5½ + Check for swivel 28 ¾ + Billets 9 ¾ + Front, made up 13 ⅞ + Center check 60 ⅝ + Reins 175 ⅞ + + PAD AND LONG TUGS. + Top 17 1⅜ + Housing 24 3¾ + Sides 17 1½ + Points 12 ¾ + Market tug chapes 20 ⅞ + Market tug billets 20 ⅞ + Belly band, fold 17 3½ + Layer 23 ⅞ + Turnback 44 ⅝ + Body 1½ + Split 8 + Dock 12 3 + Hame tugs 16½ 1⅛ + Traces 90 1⅛ + Trace bearers 56 + + GIG SADDLE AND SHORT TUGS. + + Tree 4 + Flaps 22 3½ + Points 10 ⅞ + Trace bearers 17 1 + Hame tugs 13 1⅛ + Traces 92 1⅛ + + SHAFT-HORSE. + + Bridle cut ⅛ of an inch heavier than + that for lead-horse, the lengths + being the same throughout. + + SADDLE. + + Tree 5 + Flaps 23 4¼ + At swell 5¾ + Points 10 1⅛ + + All other parts cut to the same + measurements as those of the + Coupé harness, No. 5. + +No. 11. + +MEDIUM WEIGHT SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width + inches. inches. + Crown piece 24 1½ + Cheeks 30 ¾ + Throat latch 22 ¾ + Front 22 ⅞ + Winker brace 13 1¼ + Split 8 + Rounded 7 + Gag runners 16 ⅜ + Face pieces 26 1¼ + Split 10 + Check reins 22 1 + Billets 10 ¾ + Center 60 ⅝ + Winkers, square 5 + + GIG SADDLE. + Tree 5 + Skirts, width to suit tree 22 + Points 12 1¼ + Belly band, fold 18 5 + Shaft girth, fold 22 5 + Chapes 7 1¼ + Shaft tugs 20 1¼ + Billets 14 1¼ + Carriers for saddle 20 1¼ + Hame tugs 20 1½ + Hame straps 20 ⅞ + Traces 74 1½ + + BREECHING. + Body fold 38 5 + Layer 46 1½ + Breeching straps 48 1¼ + Tugs 12 1 + Hip strap 44 2 + Split 20 + Carrying straps 22 ¾ + Turnback 44 1 + Layer 9 + Crupper body 18 1½ + Split 8 + Crupper dock 15 2½ + +No. 12. + +HEAVY SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 22 1¼ + Cheeks 29 ¾ + Throat latch 25 ¾ + Front 30 1 + Made up 12 + Winker strap 12½ 1¼ + Split 7½ + Billet 5 ⅝ + Nose piece 13 ⅞ + Checks 23 ⅞ + Center piece 60 ⅝ + Winkers 5½ 5 + + HAMES AND TRACES. + Hames ⅞ + Hame tugs 11 1⅞ + Loops 4 + Traces 72 1⅞ + Hame strap, long 23 1 + short 17 1 + + SADDLE. + Tree 6 + Flaps 22 5½ + Jockies 6 5¼ + Points 10 1¼ + Back straps 22 1½ + Shaft tugs 26 1½ + Billets 14 1¼ + Chapes, long belly band 8 1¼ + short belly band 8 1¼ + Martingale 29 1¼ + Billet 14 1 + + BREECHING. + Layer 48 1½ + Tugs 9 1 + Hip straps 48 1 + Turnback 46 1¼ + Dock 16 3 + Breeching straps 58 1¼ + Reins 1 + + FOLDS. + Breeching 41 5 + Belly band, short 17 4½ + long 22 4½ + Martingale 32 4½ + Turnback 22 2¼ + +No. 13. + +LONG TUG TEAM HARNESS, SOFT PAD. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 24 1⅝ + Split 7 + Cheek billets ⅞ + Throat latch billets ¾ + Cheeks 30 ⅞ + Fronts 24 ⅞ + fitted up 16½ + Winker straps 15 1½ + rounded 9 + Face pieces 22 1⅛ + Split 11 + Throat latches 24 ¾ + Winkers 5⅞ 5½ + Inside checks 60 ¾ + Outside checks 26 ¾ + Billets 10 ¾ + + PADS, ETC. + + Tops 22 1¾ + Ends 1½ + Ring pieces 26 1¼ + Center rounded 5 + Nut pieces 18 1¾ + Skirt straps 32 1¼ + Back strap 60 1¾ + Split 52 + Chapes 9 1¾ + Layers 12 1¼ + + BREECHING. + Folds 44 5 + Layers 54 1¼ + Chapes for lead up 6½ + Layers 11 ⅞ + Side straps 68 1 + Lazy straps 44 1 + + TRACES, ETC. + Traces, fitted up 72 1¾ + Hame tugs, fitted up 18 1¾ + Billets 16 1½ + Belly band folds 18 5½ + Chapes 7 1½ + Pole straps 54 1¾ + Breast straps 66 1¾ + Collar straps 32 1 + Hame straps, bottom 26 1 + top 28 1 + +No. 14. + +LONG TUG FARM HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 24 1¼ + Ends split 7½ ⅝ + Cheeks 17 ⅝ + Bit straps 11½ ⅝ + Throat latches, long 13 ⅝ + short 11 ⅝ + Winker straps 13 1¼ + Split, flat 8 ½ + round 8 ⅝ + Billet 5 ⅝ + Fronts 12 1¼ + Face pieces 22 1 + Split 10 + rounded 7 + Checks 24 ⅞ + rounded 15 + Center 60 ⅝ + Billets 8⅞ + + PADS, TRACES, ETC. + Pad tops, soft pad 36 1¼ + Layers 50 1⅞ + Billets 16 1¼ + Belly band fold 21 5 + Billets 14 1¼ + Hame tugs 17 1½ + Traces 72 1½ + Hame straps, long 22 1 + short 20 1 + Holdbacks 52 1½ + Breast straps 52 1½ + Turnbacks 36 1 + Crupper bodies 17 1¼ + Docks 14 3 + Billets ⅝ + Lines ⅞ + Billets 9 ⅞ + +No. 15. + +WAGON HARNESS WITH ADJUSTABLE TREES. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 24 1⅝ + Split at ends 6 ⅞ and ¾ + Cheeks 30 ⅞ + Throat latches, long 20 ¾ + short 12 ¾ + Fronts 22 ⅞ + Round reins 22 1 + rounded 16 + Center pieces 60 ¾ + Winker brace 11 1 + Winker, wing pattern 7 4 + + PADS, ETC. + Hame tugs 36 1½ + With cockeyes and chains 76 + Adjustable trees, No. 6. + Pad skirt 16 3½ + Layer, also to line 20 1¼ + billets + Billets 16 1¼ + Bottoms 18 6 + Belly band folds 18 5 + Chapes 7 1¼ + Billets 16 1¼ + + BREECHING. + Body folds 39 5 + Layers 48 1¼ + Tugs 12 ⅞ + Side straps 72 ⅞ + Hip straps 26 1¾ + Split 20 + Crupper body 16 1½ + Split 8 + Dock, folded 14 2½ + Back straps, 42 1 + to sew in rump rings + Breast straps 56 1½ + Holdbacks 50 1¼ + Hame and carrying straps 22 ⅞ + + TRIMMINGS. + 2 pairs common low top wooden hames, + 2 bits, + 4 1½-inch cockeyes, + 6 1¾-inch breeching rings, + 4 1-inch ” ” + 4 ⅞-inch ” ” + 12 1¼-inch buckles, + 2 1½-inch ” + 20 ⅞-inch ” + 16 ¾-inch ” + 4 1½-inch trace buckles, + 4 gag-swivels. + +No. 16. + +ADJUSTABLE PAD DOUBLE HARNESS, TO BE USED ALSO AS SINGLE HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 24 1¼ + Split 7½ ⅝ + Cheek pieces 16 ⅝ + Bit straps 10 ⅝ + Fronts 22 1 + Throat straps 20 ⅝ + Face pieces 23 1 + Split 10½ + Winker braces 13 1 + Split, rounded 7 + Winkers 4¾ 4¼ + Check reins 22 ⅞ + Center pieces 56 ⅝ + + ADJUSTABLE PADS. + Skirts 20 + Points 14 1 + Pads 6 + Back-bands 38 1 + + TRACES, ETC. + Traces 78 1½ + Hame tugs 10 1½ + Belly bands, folded 19 3¾ + Chapes 6 1 + Martingales, folded 30 3 + Billets, collar 16 ⅞ + Points 10 ⅝ + Pole straps 48 1¼ + Yoke straps 48 1¼ + + BREECHINGS. + Body fold 39 3¾ + Layers 45 1⅛ + Tugs, long 12 ⅝ + short 10 ⅝ + Hip straps 26 ⅝ + Back straps 36 ⅞ + Reins 78 ⅞ + + TRIMMINGS. + 2 pair low top wood hames, + 2 adjustable trees, + 4 1½-inch trace buckles, + 4 1¼-inch roller buckles—for breast and neck-straps, + 14 1-inch buckles, + 6 ⅞-inch ” + 24 ⅝-inch ” + 4 breeching rings, + 8 ¾-inch rings. + +No. 17. + +PENNSYLVANIA WAGON HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 22 1¼ + Cheek pieces, long billet side 48 1¼ + short billet side 36 1¼ + Throat latch 39 ¾ + Nose band 18 1⅛ + Winker straps 12 1¼ + Split 9 + Front 26 1⅛ + Winkers 5½ 5 + Check reins 78 1 + Bit straps 12 ⅞ + + BREECHING. + Butt pieces 56 4 + Hip pieces 58 4 + Cross pieces 62 1½ + Side straps 54 1½ + Braces 24 3 + Hip straps 36 1½ + Back-band 46 4 + Chapes 14 3 + Short-top stay 8 1¼ + Back strap 66 3 + Split 8 + Chapes, for square on rump 8 2 + Dock, folded 15 2½ + Belly band, long side 34 1½ + Billet 24 1½ + Carrying straps 22 ⅞ + Hame straps 22 ⅞ + Chain pipes 30 5 + + TRIMMINGS. + 2 pair hook hames, high top, + 4 trace chains, + 4 large rings, or D’s, for breeching, + 2 bits, + 2 1½-inch buckles—breast strap, + 2 triangles for rump, + 6 1½-inch buckles, + 2 1¼-inch ” + 16 ⅞-inch ” + 2 1-inch ” + 4 ¾-inch ” + +No. 18. + +STAGE HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 24 1½ + Split 7 + Cheeks 30 ¾ + Throat latches 22 ¾ + Winker straps 13 1¼ + Split 8 + Front 22 1⅛ + Made up 12 + Reins, in one piece 78 ¾ + + PADS, ETC. + + Tops 36 1¾ + Points cut down to 1¼ + Tugs and belly band billets combined 30 1¼ + Center piece 9 1 + Belly band folds 20 5 + Chapes 7 1¼ + Traces 64 2 + Stay loops, sewed in the trace 12 1¼ + Breast straps 56 1½ + Holdbacks 42 1¼ + Billets 15 1¼ + Collar straps 30 1 + Chapes 6 1 + Hame straps 22 ⅞ + Carrying straps 22 ⅞ + + BREECHINGS. + Folds 39 5 + Layers 48 1¼ + Tugs 12 ⅞ + Breeching straps 72 ⅞ + Back straps, or turnbacks 56 1¼ + Crupper bodies 16 1½ + Split 8 + Dock, folds 14 2½ + Hip straps 30 1¾ + Split 20 + + TRIMMINGS. + 2 pairs high top Concord hames, + 2 bridle bits, + 2 pairs two-foot chains with D ends, + 14 1¼-inch buckles, + 2 1½-inch ” + 16 ⅞inch ” + 2 1-inch ” + 20 ¾inch ” + 6 1¾-inch breeching rings, + 6 1¼-inch ” + 4 1-inch ” + 4 gag-swivels. + +No. 19. + +BITTING HARNESS. + + BRIDLE. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 24 2 + Split 7 + Cheeks 13 1¼ + Billets 9 1¼ + Throat latch 22 ¾ + Front 24 1 + Made up 12 + Throat latch 22 ¾ + Swivel strap 18 ⅝ + Gag rein, long side 66 ⅞ + rounded 16 + short side 24 ⅞ + rounded 16 + Side reins 42 12 + Billets 9 + Martingale to buckle back 54 1¼ + Split 15 + Surcingle, web 63 + padded 16 + Billets on broad web 24 1 + Chapes 6 1 + Pad layer and billets 18 1 + Side chapes 21 1 + Turnback, sewed in rump ring 42 1 + Crupper body 16 1½ + Split 8 + Dock 16 2⅛ + + TRIMMINGS. + 1 bit, + 2 martingale rings, + 1 1¼-inch ring, + 3 1⅛-inch rings, + 5 1¼-inch buckles, + 10 1-inch ” + 3 ⅞-inch ” + 5 ¾-inch ” + +In making up, measure off 24 inches from the billet end of the web for +the center of the pad, which should be 16 inches long; sew on the chape +for the billet, and turn back the ring across the center of the pad; +measure off from the center 22 inches on each side for the side check, +chapes of ring, and buckles; buckle back the rump stay strap with a +reverse buckle and slip loops. + +No. 20. + +CART HARNESS. + + BREECHING. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Body 75 4 + Layer, to extend to ring 64 2½ + Hip strap 54 1¼ + Tugs 14 1¼ + Kidney strap 58 1¼ + Tugs 14 1¼ + Back strap 34 1½ + Safe-piece 14 4 + Layer or buckle piece 14 1½ + Belly band, long 60 2½ + Billet 24 2½ + + Bridle same as stage harness, No. 18. + + TRIMMINGS. + 1 saddle tree, + 1 pair hook hames, + 1 back chain, + 2 holdback chains, + 2 trace chains, + 2 loop end pins for breeching, + 1 2½-inch ring for rump, + 4 1⅛-inch rings, + 6 1-inch buckles, + 8 ¾-inch ” + 1 2½-inch buckle, + 1 1½-inch ” + 1 1¼-inch ” + 1 plain ring bit. + +No. 21. + +MULE HARNESS. + + BRIDLES. + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown pieces 24 1½ + Split 7 + Cheeks 30 ⅞ + Throat latches 22 ¾ + Winker straps 13 1¼ + Split 8 + Front 22 1⅛ + Reins, in one piece 78 ¾ + + PADS. + Top 34 1¾ + Belly band folds 18 5 + Chapes 7 1¼ + Hame tugs 32 1½ + Breeching fold 34 5 + Hip straps 24 1¾ + Split 18 + Side straps 62 ⅞ + Turnback 52 1 + +No. 22. + +SHORT TUG BUTT CHAIN HARNESS. + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Hame tugs, to sew in side loops 36 1½ + Short tugs for chains 52 1½ + Pad fold 20 6 + Layer, to include billet linings 48 1¼ + Center lay for back strap 8 1 + Bridle reins 78 ¾ + + All other parts the same as No. 16. + + TRIMMINGS. + + 2 pairs of common high top hames, + 2 common bits, + 4 breeching loops for tugs, + 2 pairs of butt chains, + 6 1¾-inch breeching rings, + 4 1-inch ” ” + 4 ⅞-inch ” ” + 12 1¼-inch buckles, + 2 1½-inch ” + 20 ⅞-inch ” + 16 ¾-inch ” + 4 1½-inch trace buckles. + + +TRIMMINGS FOR CARRIAGE-HARNESS. + +No. 1. + +Page 64. + + 2 1⅜ or 1½-inch terrets, + 1 bolt-hook to match, + 2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 9 ½-inch buckles, + 10 ⅝-inch ” + 6 ⅞-inch roller-buckles, + 2 gag-swivels, + 2 1¼-inch breeching-rings, + 2 1¼-inch martingale-rings, + 1 half-cheek trotting-snaffle, + 2 ⅝-inch rings, + 4 saddle-nails. + +No. 2. + +Page 66. + + 2 1¼-inch terrets, + 1 No. 4 bolt-hook, + 1 No. 2 fly terret, + 1 front, + 2 rosettes, + 2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 2 gag-swivels, + 2 1¼-inch breeching-rings, + 2 1¼-inch martingale-rings, + 4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles, + 2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles, + 8 ½-inch bridle-buckles, + 3 ⅝-inch buckles, + 5 ¾-inch roller-buckles, + 2 ⅜-inch buckles, + 2 ¾-inch rings, + 1 half-cheek snaffle. + +No. 3. + +Page 68. + + 2 1⅜ or 1½ inch terrets, + 1 bolt-hook to match, + 2 1-inch trace-buckles, + 2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 9 ½-inch buckles, + 7 ¾-inch ” + 5 ⅝-inch ” + 2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles, + 2 1-inch roller-buckles, + 2 1¼-inch martingale-rings, + 2 1¼-inch breeching-rings, + 1 snaffle-bit, + 2 gag-swivels, + 2 ⅝-inch rings, + 4 saddle-nails. + +No. 4. + +Page 70. + + 1 pair ¹¹/₁₆-inch hames, + 2 1½ or 1⅝-inch terrets, + 1 bolt-hook to match, + 2 1⅛-inch trace-buckles, + 2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles, + 3 ⅞-inch buckles, + 5 ¾-inch ” + 12 ⅝-inch ” + 2 gag-swivels, + 1 fly-terret, + 2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings, + 2 1⅜-inch martingale-rings, + 2 rosettes, + 1 snaffle-bit. + +No. 5. + +Page 72. + + 1 pair ¾-inch hames, + 2 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets, + 1 bolt-hook to match, + 1 fly-terret to match, + 2 1¼-inch trace-buckles, + 2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles, + 2 1¼-inch ” + 1 ⅞ inch buckle, + 6 ¾-inch buckles, + 11 ⅝-inch ” + 1 Hanoverian or scroll bit, + 2 rosettes, + 1 chain or link front, + 2 gag-runners (hooks and eyes), + 2 1½-inch breeching rings, + 2 ⅝-inch rings, + 4 saddle-nails. + +No. 6. + +Page 74. + + 1 pair ⁹/₁₆-inch hames, + 2 1¼ or 1⅜-inch terrets, + 2 fly or post hooks to match, + 2 fly-terrets, + 4 1-inch trace-buckles, + 8 pad-screws, + 6 ¾-inch roller-buckles, + 4 ⅝-inch ” + 8 1-inch ” + 2 ⅝-inch buckles, + 2 ⅜-inch ” + 24 ½-inch ” + 4 ⅝-inch rings, + 2 Hanoverian or snaffle bits, + 2 hame-rings, + 4 gag-runners. + +No. 7. + +Page 76. + + 1 pair ⅝-inch hames, + 4 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets, + 2 fly-hooks to match, + 2 fly-terrets, + 4 1¼-inch trace-buckles, + 4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles, + 4 ⅝-inch ” + 2 ⅞-inch buckles, + 4 ¾-inch ” + 20 ⅝-inch ” + 2 scroll or Hanoverian bits, + 4 rosettes, + 4 gag-runners, + 2 hame-rings, + 2 crupper-loops, + 4 ⅝-inch rings, + 8 pad-screws. + +No. 8. + +Page 78. + + 1 pair ¾-inch hames, + 4 1⅝ or 1¾ inch terrets, + 2 fly or post hooks, + 2 fly-terrets, + 4 1¼-inch center-bar loop trace-buckles, + 4 1-inch tug-buckles, + 8 ⅞-inch roller-buckles, + 30 ¾-inch buckles, + 8 ⅝-inch ” + 4 ⅝-inch rings, + 2 stiff scroll or Hanoverian bits, + 2 Bradoon bits, + 4 Bradoon swivels, + 4 gag-swivels (hooks and links), + 2 hame-rings, + 12 pad-screws, + 2 crupper-loops, + 4 pad-loops. + +Nos. 9 and 10. + +Pages 80 and 82. + +The trimmings for these harness are the same as for the regular sets +of double or single, with the exception of the ring-rosettes for the +bridles of the pole or shaft horses. + +No. 11. + +Page 84. + + 1 pair ⅞-inch hames, + 2 1¾-inch terrets, + 1 post or bolt hook to match, + 1 fly-terret, + 2 1½-inch trace-buckles, + 2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 6 1¼-inch roller-buckles, + 5 1-inch buckles, + 1 ⅞-inch roller-buckle, + 14 ¾-inch buckles, + 1 plain ring-bit, + 2 rosettes, + 2 gag-runners, + 2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings, + 2 martingale-rings, + 1 plain front, + 2 ¾-inch rings, + 4 saddle-nails. + +No. 12. + +Page 86. + + 1 pair ⅞-inch hames, + 2 1⅞-inch terrets, + 1 post or bolt hook, + 1 fly-terret, + 2 1⅞-inch trace-buckles, + 2 1½-inch shaft-tug buckles, + 6 1¼-inch roller-buckles, + 4 1-inch buckles, + 1 1-inch roller-buckle, + 1 1¾-inch buckles, + 1 ring-bit, + 2 rosettes, + 2 gag-runners, + 2 1⅝-inch breeching-rings, + 1 band-front, + 4 saddle-nails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS. + + +The man who performs his work well and quickly, possesses a capital +which can always be invested to good advantage to himself and his +employer; while the lack of the necessary skill and knowledge to +accomplish these results acts as a serious drawback to success. In +almost every factory there are those who, if they had received proper +instruction when learning their trade, would have made first-class +mechanics, but who, because of neglect on their own part, or on that +of their instructors, lack confidence in themselves when brought in +contact with others, and are content to hold secondary positions, +passing through life without benefit to their profession or profit to +themselves. Want of system is the great underlying fault, and is the +principal reason why success is so seldom attained. + +The journeyman who works at his bench in a careless, hap-hazard manner +can not perform his part well, and is almost certain to interfere with +the labor of those near him, while by his example he inculcates in the +minds of the apprentices the same disregard for order and system as +exhibited by himself, thus working a permanent injury to all with whom +he comes in contact. + +[Illustration: BREAST COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.] + +There is on the part of mechanics a general disinclination to listen +to advice based upon theory, and from a knowledge of this fact the +author has prepared the following practical instructions in harness +making in its various parts, believing the end sought could better +be accomplished in this way than in any other. While it is not to +be expected that the rules here laid down can be followed in every +particular, it is believed that there is much that will be found +instructive and useful even to the most experienced journeyman, and +which if studied by the apprentice, or the journeyman who has been +deprived of opportunities to learn his business in detail, will serve +to advance them far more rapidly towards a mastery of their trade than +if they depended solely upon the ideas and practices acquired at the +work-bench. + +The instructions given for making up a single harness will serve as a +general guide which may be followed in almost every case, as they point +out the routine to be followed and the manner of handling the stock. + +To facilitate the execution of the labor and secure good results, the +workman must so fit up the various parts that the stitcher can perform +one class of work at a time; it will not do to call upon him to stitch +a round, then a loop, followed by folds and other parts. As far as +possible the rounds should be prepared at one time, the breeching, +hip, turnback, and other plain straps at another, then the folds, +loops, laps, and all other parts where there is any considerable work +of a kind, each by themselves, not perhaps in the order named, but in +such a manner that each particular class of work can be done without +interfering with another. In the following instructions for fitting up +a single harness, the rotation is such as to cause but little annoyance +to the stitcher, while at the same time the fitter is not compelled to +wait for any thing. + +The plan here detailed is that followed in a factory where the leather +is cut out and given to the fitter, and the stitching done by men who +do nothing else. The leather being on the work-bench, the first act +is to wet all the stock thoroughly in blood-warm water, but care must +be taken to expose it to moisture long enough to draw the oil to the +surface; then skive down all the straps or parts thereof that are to +be made up into rounds, such as the winker brace, gag runners, center +of breast collar, shaft tugs, and crupper dock. Slick them out and lay +them aside to dry, then with a sharp spokeshave remove the flesh quite +closely from the crown piece, check rein billets, belly band billets, +center-piece, and cheeks; slick them out, apply a thick coat of clean +tallow, and lay them aside to dry where they will not be exposed to the +sun or to the heat from a stove, as such exposure will turn the stock +dark and cause the tallow to spew. The fleshing is not necessary on +fine stock, but where it is requisite it should be done at this time. +Next skive the breeching, belly band, breast collar, and neck piece +layers, slick them out and lay them aside to dry; then skive down the +trace fillings or raise to the required thickness, and take the edges +down thin with a wide edge tool. Next proceed to skive down the top +and bottom, and slick them out, after which raise the top and paste +in the filling (avoid using more paste than is absolutely necessary), +moisten the top of the trace with a damp sponge and rub it down with a +bone, reverse the straps so that the butts will run up on the outside +and down on the inside, then paste on the bottom, wet it in the same +manner as directed for the top, rub it down with a bone, and then rub +the trace well with a rag: this will give the grain a fine, soft finish +that can not be secured in any other way. Then skive down the tops +and bottoms of the breeching straps, slick them out, block, crease, +and punch holes in the bottom for the buckles; take the edges down on +the bottom to form the raise on the top, raise the latter, and paste +down for a distance of four feet; skive the tops and bottoms of the +hip straps, slick them out, and take down the edges of the bottoms to +form the raise for the tops; cut them off three feet eight inches long, +round the ends, paste on the tops, and rub them with a bone and rag; +lay them aside, and when they are sufficiently dry so that the paste +will not move they are ready to sink, but do not dry them in the sun or +near the fire, as such heat will harden the stock and cause the paste +to dry unevenly. + +Next fit up the shaft tug—eight inches for a seven-eighth inch tug—the +straps being cut one and one eighth inches wide. Take off one eighth +of an inch on each edge of the portion to be fitted up, raise and +fill in the remaining portion so as to take up the quarter inch that +was trimmed off the outside, channel the inside so that the stitches +will be buried out of sight, and lay them aside to dry. Now fit the +dock, mark off and cut it out, crease the edges with a fine crease, +prick off twelve inches, take the edges down quite thin and bend the +two together. Next fit the rounds, commencing with those for the gag +runners and following with those for the throat latch and breast +collar. Take the edge off the full length of the part to be rounded, +and channel with a small round knife from the edge. The gag runners +for a half-inch bridle require to be channeled four inches, the +center-piece for a breast collar four and one half inches, and the +throat latch sixteen inches; hammer the straps down, and fill them if +they require it. + +The winker brace is the next strap to be prepared. The billet is four +and one half inches long; raise and crease it, hammer up the rounds +(which are seven and three quarter inches long), line the billet, and +allow the end of the lining to enter the round one inch; have the +latter stitched, paste the billet down, and crease it when dry. Next +prepare the breeching tugs. The round for the front one should be +channeled three and three quarter inches, the back one four inches; +black the part which passes around the rings, prick in the center, +and tack in the rings. Follow these by the martingale. Mark off three +quarters of an inch from the end to round in, then five inches for +laps, channel seven inches, raise, crease, and black the laps; mark +out, cut, and crease the layers; hammer up and fill the rounds, and +have them stitched; then prick off the laps and have them stitched. +Next fit up the turnback. First mark off two inches for the laps on the +ends of the dock billets; channel seven inches for the rounds; raise +the laps, then mark off and cut out the wave, skive down the edges, +hammer up the rounds, and fit the lining, allowing it to extend down +so as to form the filling for the rounds; have the latter stitched, +round them up, and paste up the turnback; when dry, mark off the wave +the full length, and sink the crease for the stitching. Go over all +lined straps and turnback, after having marked off the wave or other +pattern, with a sharp tickler, then heat the heavy sinker and finish +the sinking. Slick the tallow off the crown and center pieces, cheeks, +belly band and check rein billets, and spokeshave the edges to clean +them thoroughly. Then fit up the check reins, round the points of the +billets, take a light edge off the flesh side, but do not disturb the +grain; dampen the edges with a sponge and water, rub them with a bone +until they are smooth, and, when dry, black, and rub them with prepared +tallow, composed of one third part beeswax and two third parts pure +beef tallow; rub them with a bone and then with a rag, so that the +flesh side will be kept clean, crease the edges with a hot iron, crease +and apply a little gum tragacanth (prepared by dissolving the gum in +water and adding good black ink to give it color and preserve it), then +rub with a bone. + +Proceed in like manner to fit up and finish the centercheck, belly band +billets, cheek billets, and crown-piece billets, after which prepare +the stock for the round check reins. First measure off three inches for +laps at billet ends, next fourteen inches for rounds, then four and +one half inches for laps at rings, and three quarters of an inch to +round in; cut the laps at the ring down to full one half inch in the +center, and taper each way; leave the full substance where the leather +turns round the rings, hammer up and fill the rounds, and have them +stitched before fitting up the laps. Then mark off and cut out the +patent leather winkers, frogs, etc. Scratch the lines for stitching, +black over, and rub in a little tallow where scratched, and go over +with a heavy sinker, which will tend to improve the appearance after +the stitching is done. Paste up the winkers, but be careful to avoid +wetting the patent leather, as the water will cause it to lose its +fine gloss; stitch up the joining seam, leaving about three quarters +of an inch on the top edge near the corner for the winker strap; apply +a little paste to the inside of the winker plate, shove it in between +the lining and the patent leather, and rub down on the outside with +a gig or “jakee,” then apply a little paste to the inside where it +goes between the cheek straps, and tack down on a board to dry. When +thoroughly dry, trim off with a knife and spokeshave the edges; dampen +them with a sponge and rub with a bone, allowing the leather to become +dry before blacking. After being blacked, tack the winker in its place +between the cheek-straps. Next mark out by the patterns the layers +for the breeching, breast collar, neck piece, belly bands, and crown +piece, cut them out and take down the edges with a wide edge tool, then +spokeshave them to remove the ridges, wet and raise them on the raise +block, rub off with a rag, crease with a double creaser, and then go +over them with a sinker; when dry, black the edges and prick off. Cut +out and raise the safes for the breast collars and belly bands, paste +them on the folds, and when nearly dry double crease them; prick off +when dry, have them stitched and afterwards trim them off, wet all the +folds, hammer them down, put in the filling, sew up, crease the edges, +and tack them on the layers. + +Finishing up the rounds is the next thing in order. Wet them and trim +off the fillings, hammer down and pull them through the rounder, clean +off with a spokeshave if necessary, black them, rub on a little tallow, +pull them through the rounder again, and rub them down with a wooden +rounder and a little gum. Wet the docks, hammer down the seams over a +wire, stuff with flaxseed, working it down with a wire, trim the edge +with an edge tool, black it, and rub down with a wooden creaser to fit +the seam; bend the dock to the required shape, and lay it aside to dry. + +Next punch the breeching, hip straps, and turnbacks, wet them, slick +down the stitching from the back side, and rub the tops with a rag; +crease the edges over with a hot iron creaser; trim the projecting +edges of the turnback lining with a round knife, then take off a heavy +edge with a spokeshave, and trim with a straight knife where it is +necessary; dampen the edges with a moist sponge, and rub smooth with a +bone; when dry, black them and rub on a little tallow, after which rub +with a bone and a rag, and finish with a bone and a little gum. When +the dock becomes dry, polish it with a hot burnisher and tack it on the +turnback; have the laps stitched, trim and finish them up. Then trim +and finish the shaft tugs, and polish the insides with a burnisher. +Trim and finish the cheeks, put in the winker brace and stitch it. Trim +the traces, punch and then wet them, slick them on the back, hammer the +edges down with a “snob” or shoemaker’s hammer, and square them with a +spokeshave; then with a heavy edge tool take the edge off the top and +bottom, spokeshave them, trim the ends and around the dart holes with a +straight knife, dampen the edges and rub them down with an awl handle +(one that will fit the trace); when dry, black the edges, rub on the +tallow, and again rub with the awl handle; then rub off with a rag and +afterwards with the awl handle and a little gum. Next finish the folds +by wetting the backs, with a moist sponge, then slick them down, wet +the tops a little and rub them down with a rag, crease the edges of the +layers with a hot creaser, and recrease the folds. This completes the +harness in detail, and offers a perfectly accurate guide for a workman, +whether working by himself or in a factory. + +Uniformity can be obtained only by the use of good patterns, and it +is to the interest of every harness maker that they be kept in good +condition. To do this, cut them out of paper and paste them on thin, +stiff patent leather, then, when the paste is dry, cut the leather to +the shape of the paper patterns. All patterns for breechings, breast +collars, neck pieces, belly bands, turnbacks, martingales, and crown +pieces should be cut to the full length, and if cut at the same time to +the required width it will obviate the necessity of moving them while +marking off on the leather. The pattern for the trace wave should be +cut one half the length of the trace. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS. + + +The single strap track harness owes its origin to the demand for a +light, close-fitting, medium priced article for use on the trotting +course. Originally the collar and traces only were made of single +straps, the breeching and other parts being made in the usual manner. +The superiority of this method of making the collar, however, soon +became so apparent that the breechings and all other portions were made +to correspond, and now few harness made up in other ways are used on +the trotting tracks, while very many of this style can be seen upon +trotters on the roads and pleasure drives, and so popular have they +become that there are few sections of the country where they are not +used to a greater or less extent. + +[Illustration: HAME COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.] + +Notwithstanding their being made up of single thickness of leather +and in the plainest manner, the exercise of more than ordinary skill +and attention is required to perfect them, as in their make-up they +represent the minimum amount of weight, and yet must of necessity +possess great strength. This result can be attained only by using +leather of the best quality. Sides of uneven substance can not be +employed to good advantage, owing to the fact that much of the +strongest portion of the leather is necessarily wasted in reducing all +the straps to a uniform thickness. Young steer-hides weighing about +sixteen pounds to the side are the best: they not only give better +satisfaction when made up, but they are more economical, owing to the +small amount of waste incurred. But even with these sides only the +backs should be used, as strength is the great end to be sought after. + +Having selected a side possessing the requisite qualifications, cut +from the strongest portion the traces and all other straps except +those for the breast collar, breeching, and bridle. These can be cut +from lighter sides, those weighing from ten to twelve pounds being the +best. When the single strap harness were first manufactured the breast +collar and breeching bodies were cut from regular weight stock, and +the edges skived off from the underside, but experience has shown that +lighter sides are much more suitable, the leather being more pliant and +stronger in proportion to its weight, the strapping when made up sets +closer to the horse, and the edges do not roll after being in use for +a short time. This latter qualification is of the greatest importance, +and should of itself cause the use of light leather. + +When extra fine curried leather can not be procured, well tanned stock, +treated as has been directed on page 55, will answer for all but the +finest grades, as it will possess the requisite strength, and in many +cases can be given a fine finish. Let the leather be what it may, +however, the flesh side should be well cleaned off and worked down with +a slicker, as the slightest roughness would detract from the appearance +of the harness, while adding to the possibility of injury to the horse +from chafing. + +The most important parts of this harness are shown by the sectional +drawings on page 125. I represents a section of the breast-collar, with +trace attached. The trace, A, is of single thickness; the lap on the +body is eleven inches long, cut as shown or to some other ornamental +pattern. The ring to which the neck strap tug is attached is placed +five inches from the end of the body; the trace is stitched on with +from ten to fourteen stitches to the inch according to the grade of +the harness. The neck strap tug is quite short, and is provided with +a three eighth inch loop above the buckle, and a seven-eighth inch +loop below. When made up to measure, the tug is often dispensed with, +the neck strap being stitched to the ring, thus doing away with the +buckles. In the finer grades the traces and bodies are neatly creased. +The common qualities are in some instances made up without creasing, +while in others the imitation stitch wheel is used for the purpose of +ornamenting. The latest freak is to mark off in the same manner as +though the layers were full length, and to lay up the ornaments in +imitation of layers. The plain strap is, however, the most popular, +looks the neatest, and is more easily kept clean. [Illustration] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + +A section of the breeching is shown by II, together with the breeching +tug and buckle chape. The layer, A, is twelve inches long when made up. +The end at the breeching ring is skived off so that the ring lap will +be smooth and true. The tugs or braces, C, are most commonly rounded, +but plain flat straps are also used; these are doubled and stitched, as +they would neither be sufficiently strong nor keep their shape if of +single thickness; the ring for securing the back tug is placed about +eight inches from the breeching ring. The buckle chape, D, is provided +with a loop over as well as below the buckle, though in cheap grades +this may be omitted. + +A half section of the neck strap is shown by III. This is cut of plain +leather, the end is cut straight a distance of about six inches, above +which there is a waved section five inches long, the remaining portion +being straight, but a little wider at the center than at the top of the +wave. There is no stitching to be done on this strap, but a crease is +run around it near the edge. + +A section of the outside belly band, or shaft girth, is shown by IV. +The billet, A, is stitched to the body with the flesh side out, the +buckle being laid under between the billet and the body, B, so that +when the former is wrapped around the shaft, the grain side will be +out. One end of the short belly band is shown by V. The buckle chape +is stitched on far enough below end to allow the latter to act as a +safe. The safety-strap, a most important feature of a harness of this +kind, is shown by VI. It is in fact an extra back-band, cut in one +piece and placed over the saddle, with the ends buckled into the shaft +tug buckles or into extra shaft-tugs, the former, however, being the +most convenient form of attachment. The holes, A, are cut sufficiently +large to allow the rein terrets to pass through them. In some cases the +safety-strap is made up of a single thickness of leather throughout, +but in others a lining about twelve inches long is stitched on to +strengthen the strap at the terret holes. + +The whiffletree ends of the traces are lined for about one foot, or +three or four inches more than the space occupied by the dart-holes. +This is generally done by turning back the extra stock, the trace being +cut the full length of the side. Three dart holes are cut in, about +two inches apart, and the lined section, as well as the edges of the +dart-holes, are stitched. + +The bridle used is generally a half-inch flat strap with small square +winkers and a full or half Kemble Jackson check. All the straps on the +harness require to be neatly rounded on the edges, and blacked and +finished on the flesh sides. + +This harness is represented by Plate 1, engraved from a photograph of +the celebrated trotting-mare Goldsmith Maid. The lengths and widths for +cutting are given in table No. 1. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS. + + +In making up team-harness there is as good an opportunity for a workman +to display genius in designing and skill in execution as there is in +making the most elaborate coach or fine, light carriage harness. The +difference, however, being that in the one skill in decorating as well +as in finishing are the primary points to be considered, while in the +other adaptability, strength, and fit are first to be secured, after +which attention may be turned to finishing and trimming. The idea is +by far too prevalent that it requires but little skill to make a farm +harness, and unskilled, cheap workmen are employed who could not make +up carriage harness of any kind. A good, careful mechanic will not only +make the team harness better than the careless one, but he will, with +no more expense, give it a much finer finish, thus producing a more +salable and durable article. + +[Illustration: TEAM HARNESS.] + +In selecting stock, be governed by the directions laid down in Chapter +I. Having chosen a side suitable for the weight of harness to be made, +proceed to cut out the various straps by first straightening the back, +and measuring off a strip from 18 to 20 inches wide; draw a line +with a straight edge, and cut the side in two pieces; the back will +contain the heaviest and firmest part of the leather, the belly and +flanks that which is softer and more uneven. Before cutting out the +straps examine the grain as well as the flesh side carefully, to see +that there are no cuts or imperfect spots; too much care can not be +taken in this respect, as a blemish, no matter how slight, will show +after the leather is wet up and while being worked. If the harness +to be cut is a heavy one select a large spread side which will weigh +from twenty to twenty-two pounds, cut the traces and all other straps +which receive the strain, from the back, the folds, chapes, etc., from +the belly part. The traces should be cut 76 inches long and 1¾ inches +wide; if the leather is even and of suitable thickness, filling will +not be necessary. The breast and pole straps should be cut next after +the traces, the former 66 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, the latter +54 inches long and 1¾ inches wide. After the buckle is sewed on, slip +on a ring for the collar strap. Cut the collar strap 34 inches long +and 1 inch wide. Use wrought-iron cockeyes for the traces, and in +addition to the stitching secure each buckle and ring chape with copper +rivets; these relieve the stitching from much of the strain that would +otherwise be put upon it. Cut the hame tugs from heavy, even leather of +equal strength with that used in the traces; they should be 18 inches +long after being fitted up, and of the same width as the trace; the +laps should not be less than 3 inches long. Use firm leather for the +loops, channel on the back to allow the stitches to sink below the +surface, and trim the edges a slight bevel. Cut the bottom hame strap +of good, firm leather, 26 inches long and 1 inch wide; the top strap, +28 inches long and 1 inch wide, of strong but more pliable stock, as it +has to adjust itself to the shape of the top of the collar pad. + +Pads for these harness are made up in a variety of ways, the old style +soft pad being the most desirable. Cut the top of good, even, and +moderately heavy stock 22 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, narrow the +ends to 1½ inches, tapering up 3½ inches; cut the ring piece 26 inches +long by 1¼ inches wide, and round up 5 inches in the center; fit the +ring piece to the pad top with the round well raised up, and place a +martingale ring under the round for a tie strap ring; then stitch a +ring on each end of the top. For the nut pieces cut straps 18 inches +long and 1¾ inches wide, of heavy, firm stock. At the ends of the round +ring piece punch a hole for the pad screw; 3½ inches from that point +punch another for the back-strap loop. To make a showy pad, use a +patent leather housing. + +The breeching folds should be cut from the smoothest part of the +flank, and shaved down to an even thickness. If the harness maker will +treat the folds as directed in regard to rein leather, he can produce +a broken grain which will look much better than the plain leather, +and will not so readily show checks from use. Cut the fold forty-four +inches long and five inches wide. In all cases cut folds wider than +the actual measurements, as the leather will narrow down in places +while being worked; they can be cut to the required width, when ready +for fitting up. Cut canvas of the requisite width and fill in the +folds; coat the leather on the flesh side with tallow, and also apply +warm tallow to the fillings. This will secure a durable job. Cut the +back strap five feet long and one and a quarter inches wide; split it +fifty two inches, leaving a short part uncut to wrap around the ring. +If the leather is not heavy, use a wear leather where the back strap +is attached to the hame rings. Stitch the hip straps to the rump rings +before fitting up the bucklepiece. If a pad-safe is used under the +rump ring, cut it half an inch wider than the rump strap, stitch it +on with the edges even, and leave the swell end open, to permit its +being stuffed with hair. For lead-ups for the breeching, use a six and +one half inch chape of sufficient width for the buckle; cut the layer +eleven inches long and seven eighths of an inch wide, with a hole under +the buckle for the hip strap points to pass through. Use one and three +quarter rings for the breeching and one inch ring for the center lead +up. + +Cut the side straps from the center of the side, as it is necessary +that they be of even thickness. These should be six feet long and one +inch wide, leaving six inches for the turnback; fit up with two loops, +and use a snap and a slide loop to hold the latter to its place. + +Make the belly bands of heavy folds, five and one half inches wide and +eighteen inches long; lap the edges in the center, contracting the ends +to the width of the buckle chapes; stitch through the center with one +row. + +The bridles, though plain, are a very important part of a harness of +this kind, and the workman who slights them makes a great mistake. +They need to be larger than other kinds, as the horses they are used +upon are heavier. The fronts should be sufficiently long to allow the +crown pieces to lay one inch back of the root of the horses’ ears. A +short front will draw the crown pieces forward and spoil the set of the +bridle. Fifteen to sixteen inches should be the length used. The length +of the crown is another important consideration; under no circumstances +should it be less than twelve inches between the billet splits, the +whole length being twenty-four inches. The cheeks should be seven +eighths of an inch and throat latch three quarters of an inch wide. Cut +the former thirty inches long; set the buckle above the winker. The +winker braces should be cut fifteen inches long, rounded nine inches; +cut the face piece twenty-one inches long, and split it ten and one +half inches. All straps on the bridle other than the face and winker +should be flat. Cut the inside checks sixty-one inches and outside +checks twenty-six inches long, by three quarters of an inch wide; make +up the outside with a ring for take-up. Use a plain leather winker, six +by four and one half inches, with round corners and an oval end. These +wear better and are less liable to be damaged than the square winkers. + +Cut the lines from the best part of a side weighing about sixteen +pounds; see that there are no cuts on the grain or flesh side. Make +them up flat, about twenty-four feet long and one inch wide. The inside +or cross lines must be six feet six inches long; billets, twelve inches +long; finish off the ends with a billet in such a manner that a snap +can be attached if desired. + +The mountings, though of the plainest kind, must be strong, and in +neglecting to procure those suited to the strain to be borne, harness +makers often entail pecuniary loss upon themselves and injure their +reputation. A weak buckle, ring, or hame, operates just as injuriously +to the harness maker as though the leather used was inferior in quality +and the workmanship poor. The trace buckles are subjected to a severe +test, and unless they are strong and perfect they will not sustain the +heavy strain put upon them. There are a variety of patent trace buckles +in the market, and, owing to strong competition, prices have been very +much reduced, so that manufacturers have been tempted to make them much +lighter than they should be. It is necessary, therefore, to examine +them closely, and to buy the strongest and those most easily adjusted. +The hames, which are of wood, should be strong and of good shape, +provided with extra rings for split back strap and loose loops at the +bottom. The small buckles should be strong and of a good pattern—that +is, so shaped that the strap is not bent too much in passing through, +and the edges are not borne too heavily upon. The common wire horseshoe +buckle, which is used more than any other, is the poorest article in +the market. The “Sensible” is a good buckle, and there are others which +answer quite as well, a full description of which is given in the +chapter on harness mountings. But of all the buckles made, there is +none better than the large barrel roller-buckle for a draft harness: +this possesses great strength, is easily loosened, and does not cut the +strap in the least. + +The stitching throughout should be done with white thread, as it is +much stronger than black; it can be colored easily when blacking up for +finishing. Traces and tugs should have six or seven stitches; all other +straps eight or ten to the inch. Coarse stitching is the strongest, and +accords best with heavy harness. + +The above instructions, though ostensibly for a team harness, can be +followed in a general way in making up all kinds of draft harness. The +following practical working guide will be understood by the workman. + +Before doing any thing toward fitting up, see that every strap is cut +and laid upon the work-bench. First skive down all the folds, wet them +and slick them out, cut them to the required lengths, and skive down +and shape ends; fold them and hammer them down; fill them with canvas, +felt, or leather, and sew them up; then shape up the chapes, skive down +the ends, punch the buckle-holes, and black and crease the edges; tack +on the chapes and layers, and as soon as the leather is dry they can be +stitched. + +Before stitching the folds, wet all the stock, allow it to dry a +little, then slick it out, point up the straps, take off the edges +where it is necessary, and crease while damp. If the edges are rubbed +down at the same time, they will finish better when dry; but the +blacking must not be applied until after the leather is dry. If folded +traces are used, mark a line in the center on the flesh side, and with +a gouge take out about one half the thickness of the stock. This will +prevent the leather cracking when being bent over. If doubled and +stitched traces are used, paste up, tack, and crease them, and lay them +one side to dry. Fit up the breeching tugs, turn four inches; use loops +one eighth inch narrower than the tugs. Crease and stitch the winkers, +put some paste on the plates, and shove them in; rub down with a round +end slicker, and tack them on a board to dry. Fit up the winker brace, +wet it thoroughly, and bend it like the letter B; tack it down, and +allow it to dry before being stitched in. Make all the laps on the +bridle two inches long; lap billets, three inches. + +After all the straps are dry and stitched, trim the edges, using a +spokeshave instead of glass to true them; black them, and then apply a +little tallow and rub with a rag. Clean up the loops, and the harness +will be ready to receive the final finish. + + +HEAVY ORNAMENTAL TRUCK HARNESS. + +Among the many devices resorted to for the purpose of advertising a +special business is the use of display teams, the harness for which is +made in the most expensive manner; and it is no uncommon occurrence for +a four-horse set to cost $2000, or a single set to cost $1200. As all +these harness are made up in special styles, according to the taste of +the party ordering them, a general description is all that is necessary. + +The bridles are made up full coach style, the winkers square, with +slightly-rounded corners; swivel gag runners are used, and the +ornaments are alike on both sides; the cheeks, throat latches, and +reins are cut three quarters of an inch wide; the winker braces are +generally rounded; the face pieces are made with ornamental pendants, +and are lined and stitched throughout. The entire bridle is fitted up +with as much care as though designed for a coach harness. The metallic +ornaments are of an appropriate design, to illustrate the business of +the owner. + +The wheel harness have no pads; the crupper or back straps extending +forward to the top hand straps; the crupper bodies are made with wide +scroll safes, padded; the layers, which extend the entire length of the +safes, are cut to a suitable ornamental pattern, made up martingale +fashion, lined and stitched with four rows, fourteen to sixteen to the +inch. + +[Illustration: HEAVY DRAFT HARNESS.] + +The hip straps for each breeching are cut in one piece, having a swell +two and a half inches wide, the split ends being one inch wide; between +the ends there are ornamental pendants, which are cut out of the same +strap, fitted up quite full, and stitched with four rows, the center of +the frog being provided with a metallic ornament; the hip straps are +secured to the crupper body by metallic screws. + +The breeching bodies are of solid leather, two and three quarter inches +wide; the layer straight and stitched with four rows; the layers and +hip straps are stitched fourteen to the inch; the tugs have full safes, +with loops before and after the buckles; on each tug is an ivory ring +in place of the ordinary breeching rings: they are put up the same as +collar buckles, having loops for the tugs and trace bearer frogs, the +latter being of some neat, appropriate pattern. + +The breeching straps act as pole straps as well, as they extend from +the breeching to the neck yoke, and are provided with heavy straps +at the pole ends, and attached to the breeching martingale fashion. +Bearing straps are attached to the forward ends, and are secured to the +harness by swivel snap hooks. + +The traces and safes are cut in one piece, the safe end being four +and one half, the other portion two inches wide, and attached to the +harness by a heavy loop and three plated-head rivets; they have three +straight rows of stitches, ten to the inch. + +The lead harness, bridles, traces, and collars are made up the same +as those for the pole team, except that they are lighter; they have, +however, pads, but no breeching. The former are of plain leather, cut +in one piece, with swelled sides doubled throughout and made very firm, +the bearing part lined and padded, and the tops stitched in the same +manner as the tops of coach pads. The trace bearers are made heavy and +strong, and in addition to being stitched to the pad by four rows they +are each fastened by two pad-screws, to which are fastened ivory rings; +rings are also attached to the top in the center of each pad through +which the turnback passes to the hame straps. The cruppers are made up +in the same manner as those of the pole harness, excepting that they +are provided with billets for the docks; the latter are extra large. + +The loin straps are made up in the usual coach style, with swell ends +and hip ornaments and trace bearers the same as those on the pole +harness. + +The mountings are generally silver-plated, all the buckles being the +“sunk bar.” The round reins are of russet, and the hand parts of heavy +buffed leather. The collars are heavy, having piped throats, lined with +thin harness leather. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +MAKING GIG SADDLES. + + +Formerly every harness maker made up his own gig saddles, and any +general information on that line of manufacture was of great value, +but of late years a large percentage made are by parties who carry +on the business of saddle making exclusively, or in connection with +winkers, fronts, etc., and but few harness makers can afford to make +up the lower grades of saddles. There are those, however, who will +not purchase ready-made saddles, and they would not think the manual +complete without some instruction upon this very important branch of +the harness business. To such the following plain details may prove of +great value. The tree selected is the well known Tompkins, it being +used more generally than any other. + +The covering of the seat is the first part to be performed. To do +this and make a perfect job, fit up the tree; for no matter how well +it may have been made, there may be rough spots on the iron, and the +wood in the cantle may need to be reduced in thickness. After having +thoroughly cleaned the tree, unscrew the seat and remove it from the +frame; varnish it with shellac varnish to prevent its rusting, or, +better still, draw on a piece of sheepskin. When it is dry, proceed to +prepare and draw on the seat leather, as follows: Cut a piece of patent +collar leather, of the size required for the seat to be covered, dampen +it with warm water, but do not wet the varnish and avoid using too much +water; stretch it to conform somewhat to the desired shape, put a tack +on each side of the cantle, and clip the edges to admit of its being +drawn down. Pull each way and cut off the surplus leather, then sew +the parts underneath the seat with a cross stitch, after which pull +up the cantle part and tack it all around to the wood. Cut a piece of +leather of about the size and substance of the middle leather (this is +to be removed when the jockeys are put on,) place it in position, and +screw the seat to the frame in order to secure the seat leather firmly +in its place; use a washer temporarily until the seat is screwed on to +remain; then file off the projecting portion of the screw. When the +seat leather becomes dry, put on the back pieces, draw the tacks from +the cantle, cut off some of the surplus leather, dampen the part over +the cantle edge, and with a pair of plyers set up the leather drawn +over the cantle, clipping it where needed. Cut a piece of patent collar +leather for the back piece of the cantle, of the same shape as the +seat leather; fit it nicely, and punch holes for the crupper loop, and +cut apart from the hole to the bottom; secure it in position by a few +tacks, and prepare it for the binding. To do this, use a single thread +carefully in such a manner that the stitches will not show through the +binding, paste the two upper edges together, and hammer to make them +firm and smooth. When dry, cut off the surplus leather, leaving just +enough to form a binding-edge, and with a very sharp edge tool trim the +back part, and it will be ready for the binding. To bind, cut a strip +of enameled leather, about seven eighths or one inch wide (cutting +parallel with the grain to prevent the varnish from cracking) and of +the proper length, which can be ascertained by stretching it over the +cantle edge; skin one side to a thin edge, paste, and with a slicker +turn down the edge one quarter of an inch, rub it down and crease it +for stitching; then draw it over the cantle, tack one end properly and +carefully adjust it in its place until the circle is completed and the +other end secured in the same way. Regulate it with a slicker (which +should be about one inch wide to work well), after which allow it to +dry, and stitch as neatly as possible; when stitched, slick, regulate, +and trim off the binding on the back part, black the trimmed edge, and +it will be ready for the jockeys. + +To prepare the frame for the seat and jockeys, trim off the rough edges +from the middle leather, cut two pieces of hard stock, about six inches +long and of the same width as the depressions in the frame, skive down +one end of each piece, and tack one in each of the depressions, with +the skived ends toward the center; holes must be punched in them for +the terret nuts, which should be secured with annealed or clout nails +passed through the leather and clinched. + +To make the jockeys, take a pattern of the required size, made of +heavy leather or sheet iron, scribe and cut the jockeys, if for a +covered seat, in two pieces; if for a japanned seat, in one piece; for +a covered seat, skive the parts that meet on the center of the tree, +dampen with water, and bend them to fit nicely over the seat. After +stitching the jockeys, take off the edge with an edge tool, black, and +rub smooth, and polish with a little ballblack. When they are ready, +tack them to the middle leather on the frame in their proper place, +screw on the seat, file off the screw if too long, wet the front and +back edges of the seat leather, carefully draw it down, tack the front +and rear, then trim off all surplus leather, and it is ready for the +flaps. + +The crupper loop should be covered before the seat and frame are put +together. Cover it with plain or enameled leather, in the same manner +as in covering a buckle or ring, and, when dry, stitch firm, trim off +the edges, black, and rub smooth. To cut the flaps, patterns should be +provided the same as for the jockeys; lay them on the leather, scribe +around them with a round awl, and cut them out, true and smooth, with +a sharp round knife; grease the under side with hard tallow, but do +not allow it to touch the cut edges; immerse them in water for a few +minutes, then lay them aside until the water has softened the leather +enough for it to receive the crease-mark; a little grease applied to +the glazed side will prevent the creaser scratching. After creasing, +allow them to dry, then bevel and black the edges. + +To flap off, cut the ends of the flaps to the requisite shape, so as +to allow a portion to settle down in the depressions of the tree on +the top of the stiffeners, leaving room for the back-bands; fit the +parts nicely, butting them against the crupper, so that the jockeys +will hit the guide marks on the flaps; place them so that the tree is +in the center, and nail through the holes in the frames, clinching the +nails on a flat iron. The back-bands being in their place on the flaps, +adjust them on the tree, punch holes in them for the terret shanks, +tack them fast, and secure the nuts with clout nails. After putting in +the forepiece, sew down the jockeys. If the flaps are lengthened in +front, the forepiece can be dispensed with when making cheap saddles. + +To make the leather loops, cut two pieces of thin harness leather, +three and a half inches long and one and a quarter inches wide; also +two other pieces of good leather, about as heavy as bridle leather, one +inch wide by three and a quarter inches long; paste these on the thin, +wide pieces, then cut four strips, a little more than one eighth of an +inch wide, from the heaviest leather (as it is easier to paste before +cutting); paste them three sixteenths of an inch from the outer edges, +pat them down with a hammer, and allow the paste to dry; when dry, +skive the ends, and they will be ready for the covering leather. Next +cut a piece of good enameled leather of sufficient width to cover the +body piece, shave down a little, slick out, cut in two pieces, paste +them, and put them around the body piece; while damp, bind them over a +piece of wood, three eighths of an inch thick on one edge, and, after +adjusting them to suit the eye, tack them to dry; when dry, stitch them +twenty to twenty-two stitches to the inch, and they will be ready to be +put in the flaps. + +To lay up the points for stitching, rough out the upper pieces eleven +and a half inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, if for a +three-inch saddle or under, of good but not heavy leather; cut the +linings one and a half inches shorter and of lighter material; wet the +leather as directed on page 54, and when partially dry it will work +easily. If the upper pieces are not of uniform thickness, place the +heaviest ends next to the flaps; slick them smooth, lay on the pattern, +mark it, and cut out the ornamental section that is stitched on the +flap; skive down the uppers on the flesh side where they lay on the +flaps, leaving the edge the heaviest just at the end of the latter, as +they are liable to break at this point if not well protected. Round +the lower ends and skive them down a little on each edge; for a good +job, make the two parts a little oval by bending them over the edge of +a board, or by rubbing them down in a groove, crease the edge, and +afterwards crease for the stitching. Skive the linings on the edges, +paste them and the tops together, smooth with a rubbing-rag, and +let them dry, then stitch from ten to sixteen stitches to the inch, +according to quality. When stitched, dampen the leather a little, +slick down the under side, and crease the edges again; trim them to +the desired shape, black them, and rub smooth with a rag containing a +little tallow, and with a stiff brush clean off the stitches. They will +then be ready to attach to the flaps. + +To make the back-bands, rough them out to the required length and +width, using the best quality of leather (the upper piece should be of +good substance, but the lining may be of lighter stock); dampen them +in the same manner as directed for the points, lay the upper pieces +together, and mark off twelve inches for the points and one inch for +rounding, if the parts above the points are to be ornamental; if not, +round four and a half inches, leaving the remaining portion flat, to +go under the jockeys and be secured by the terrets. The ornament above +the loop should be made to correspond with the other ornamental work +on the harness. Skive the edges of the under pieces, and cut the tops +to the desired width, leaving them a little wider at the loops; sew +the rounds where the loops are to go very strongly, round up smoothly, +and paste the top and linings together in good order above and below +the loop rounds (some prefer to paste up before sewing the rounds). +Crease up for straight or ornamental stitching, whichever best suits +the harness, and settle the mark for the stitches with a tickler. Where +there is not enough substance to make a firm job, a middle piece can be +used to advantage. Finish in the same manner as with the points. + +To make the pad, cut the lining to the required shape, using the best +English serge, and the body piece of sheepskin or enamelled duck. If +the former is used, it may be necessary to cut this piece a little +smaller than when duck is employed, as it does not work up so much in +sewing, and it is not necessary to take quite so deep a hold. Sew them +together in the center with a few stitches on each side, to keep them +in place, and scribe guide marks crosswise on the sheepskin or duck, +to serve as guides for closing up the long cut after stuffing. Cut the +facings of patent leather about one inch wide for all saddles under +three inches, increasing the width for larger sizes. Be governed by the +dimensions of the body piece in the length of the facings and fillings; +the latter are preferably made of leather, but reeds are also used. In +preparing the fillings, reduce them in the center at the hook, also at +the ends, to make a good finish; baste the facings on the fillings with +long stitches, having them a little damp. Sew them all together—the +facings forming a welt, beginning at the center—with a strong thread, +about four stitches to the inch; finish the ends neatly. + +After sewing, cut the body piece lengthwise, turn the pad, and +sew together with a long loop-stitch; the guide marks will assist +materially in so joining that the original position is maintained; +regulate the facings while damp. If there be sufficient time, tack +the pad out on a board in the shape to suit the flaps, and smooth the +facings with a half round creaser, the same as for any rounded piece, +and let it remain until thoroughly dry before stuffing. In making +common saddles this may be omitted, the whole being worked dry; but +with a good saddle these points must be observed. Stuff from the center +with well-beaten hair, a little at a time, working it evenly into +its place, and keeping it compact and smooth with a round awl; after +thus regulating it, quilt the pad up to the bearings, being careful +to have each side correspond. Next sew the lining to the body piece, +keeping the fullness of the lining drawn toward the lower ends of the +pad; stuff the bearings, and work with a round awl until they are +sufficiently full, then with a proper tool pound the pad where it is +quilted and stuffed, and it is ready for the saddle. + +Before flapping, make the holes in the flaps for the loops, and +prepare each of the latter for stitching. After the flapping is done, +and before sewing down the jockeys, draw the loops in their places +over the rounds of the back-bands and down through the holes made for +them in the flaps, pulling them tightly to their places, and tacking +temporarily with small tacks; sew them to correspond with the stitching +on the jockeys, punch holes through the top ends of the back-bands +for the terrets, and nail them securely. Tacking is not absolutely +necessary, but it serves to make a firmer job. After so doing, put in +the terrets and hook, using annealed nails to secure the nuts, clinch +them thoroughly, and sew down the jockeys. Trim up, regulate, and put +in the pad, lace it thoroughly, clean off, and the saddle is finished. + +Where a change is necessary in the shape of the flap, or larger or +smaller patterns are desired, strike a line lengthwise through the +center of the pattern, then take a pair of dividers and lay out the +shape or size preferred, working from the center-line; when the shape +is secured, cut one side, fold the pattern together, and cut the other. +In this way a true pattern is obtained, while no changes are made in +the part that fits the tree. Alter the patterns for the body and lining +to correspond. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS. + + +The subdivision of labor and the improvements made during the past ten +or fifteen years have, by making specialties of certain parts, such +as pads, gig saddles, etc., taken some of the harness maker’s work +out of his hands, and enabled him to purchase ready-made articles at +reduced prices, yet there are times when these must be made under the +supervision of the manufacturer in order that they may correspond with +all other portions of the harness. + +Patent pads, which constitute the greater portion of those made up +for the regular trade, are constructed in various ways, and as their +manufacture is confined to the patentees, no advantage would accrue to +the harness maker by a detailed description of the manner of putting +them together. Instruction, therefore, in this respect will be confined +to a few of the hand made pads which best represent their respective +classes; more than this it would be useless to do, as the variety of +style and processes of manufacture are so varied. + + +COACH AND CARRIAGE PADS. + +By coach and carriage pads is meant all, whether light or heavy, that +are designed for carriage harness in contradistinction to those used +on team or draught harness. The process of manufacture is the same in +all cases, whether the pad be light or heavy. Directions for making +up will be confined to the pad, independent of the sides. The plates, +which should be of wrought-iron, must be trued up, and the ends filed +off thin and smooth. Cut out the top, punch the holes for the hook, +terrets, and pad screws, blind stitch the ornamental portion, and +stitch the pad plate lining to the top; trim off the edges to a sharp +under bevel, then split the lining lengthwise, insert the plate, and +whip stitch together with strong threads. Cut the socket piece of +harness leather one half inch larger all around than the top; the +point, or pole, as it is sometimes called, should extend from 1¼ to 1⅜ +inches below the end of the plate; in cutting allow at least ⅜ of an +inch for fulness between the terret holes, and ⅛ of an inch between +the terret and pad screw holes. Skive off the edges on the flesh side +quite thin, and back ½ inch from the outer edge, punch holes for terret +nuts, insert them, and rivet them in place; in like manner insert the +nuts for the pad screws, and screw them in position by means of a small +cap piece stitched on. Screw in the pad hook, place the nut piece in +position, and pound down enough on the pad screw nut to obtain the +exact size, then remove the nut piece, and cut away for the pad hook +nut; then place the nut piece in position, screw in the terrets, insert +a short piece of harness leather the same width and thickness as the +pad side, and set in the pad screw (be careful to set the mock side +in proper position); then, with a hammer, set up the bolt piece to +the plate, work in all the fulness, and turn up the edges square and +smooth, and set the pad aside to dry. After the leather is dry, cut +the pad filling out of heavy felt, paste it on, and, when dry, trim to +the required shape. Cut the bottom from light collar leather, moisten +it on the flesh side, work it up smooth, and paste to the edges of the +nut piece; when dry, trim off flush with the top, skive the edges quite +thin, and paste on the binding, being careful to work it up smooth and +even; when dry, stitch across the center, leaving the gullet piece +about 1½ inches wide, then place the pad upon a block, and carefully +stitch the binding; trim the edge, and black if necessary. Pads put up +in this way are firm, and much easier to make than those in which hair +is used for stuffing. + +The following directions apply to the manufacture of pads stuffed with +hair. The routine for making is also somewhat different: Prepare the +top and lining, and insert the plate as before directed, fit the hook +and crupper loop in their proper places, bend the latter up so that +it meets the edge of the top, fasten the screw or nut piece with a +pad screw to the top, and force it up in the center so as to obtain +the requisite fulness, mark the holes for the screws and terrets, and +also the outlines for the plate; make the pole 1¼ inches long, remove +the nut piece, and punch the burrow holes by the lower edges of the +marks; this will secure the necessary fulness in the center; skive +off the edges of the nut piece, secure the burrs to it, and fit it +up to the top with a hammer, being careful to turn the edges up true +and smooth, and set it aside to dry; when partially dry, repeat the +process so as to be sure that the edge is properly shaped; do not +remove the top until the nut piece is perfectly dry. Cut the bottom +piece out of collar leather; to get the proper size, make a pattern of +sheepskin. This is done by dampening it very lightly, turning up the +end around the gullet, tack it to the top, fit the other end around the +pole, and tack it in like manner, then turn up the edge all around, +and mark a line level with the top. This will give the exact shape +without fulness. Remove this piece, and draw a line for the swell, the +greatest fulness being opposite the center of the terret holes; taper +gradually to the center and ends, then cut the bottom piece to the new +line by the pattern upon the leather for the bottom piece, and cut it +out. Cut a small piece out of the center in order to obtain fulness +enough for the edges, whip together smoothly, turn the edges in the +center and fasten with a few stitches, draw the ends down and fasten +the points with tacks, paste between the burrs and the lining on the +edge, pop stitch together, leaving the ends open. Stitch across the +center, leaving a space 1½ inches, paste the bottom to the edges of the +nut piece, and, when dry, trim off to the required shape; paste the +binding, and, when dry, stitch carefully; trim the binding close to +the stitching, holding the knife so as to cut under in order to avoid +showing a ragged edge. In stuffing, first work out the edge, then fill +up the center, tapering off gradually to the point; close the ends and +tuft the point, and fit up to the top for the last time. + +Fitting up the nut piece is the most important part of the work, and +care must be taken to secure the requisite fulness to make a good job; +also, to have the leather properly tempered so that it will retain the +shape given it. + + +SOFT PAD. + +A very large majority of the plainer lines of farm and team harness are +made up with what is known as soft pads—that is, those without plates. +The great number of styles makes it impossible, in a work of this kind, +to give any more than a general notice, and as an illustration the one +shown on page 154 is selected. It is one of the best, and embraces the +general principles by which all soft pads are made. The tops and sides +are cut of one piece of heavy harness leather, forty-four inches long; +and, if designed for a one and three quarter trace harness, it is cut +one and a quarter inches wide in the center, two and a quarter inches +at the pad bilge, two inches at the side bilge, one and a quarter +inches at the narrowest point between the top and side bilges, and +seven eighths of an inch at the bottom. Treat the leather the same as +in making harness, and crease the edges with a double creaser. + +[Illustration] + +The pad bottom is cut of good fold leather. In making the pad, cut +a heavy piece of felt, nine inches long, for each side, of the same +shape as the pad top, but about one quarter of an inch narrower. Cut +extra pieces about five inches long to make the requisite fulness for +the bilge of the pad; cover the felt with the pad bottom, and lace the +edges of the latter together on the top (the pad bottom should be wet +while being worked, so that it can be fitted up to a good shape); then +secure it to the top by a single line of stitches, or by binding with +fancy colored leather, allowing the binding to terminate at the bottom +of the pad, or to extend across the top in the form of a fold as shown +by X, part A. + +The pad trace bearer is shown by B; its full length is nineteen inches, +width at top three quarters of an inch, and at the bilge one and a +quarter inches; the upper end is attached to the pad top by a plated +rivet, and stitched from four and a half to five inches from the end. +The points are cut twelve inches wide and laid up on the pad side three +inches, the lower ends of the trace bearers rest on the points and are +stitched to them, one half inch bevelled plugs being placed between the +two; the whole is further strengthened by copper rivets. A ring for +the back strap is attached to the center of the pad by a chape stitched +and riveted on. + +This pad is sometimes made up with a short plate, extending down far +enough to receive the pad trace bearer, a terret being used instead of +the rivet; when this is done, a loop check takes the place of the ring. +The parts represented are: A, pad top section; B, pad side section; C, +pad trace bearer; D, one line of the pad bottom; E, pad trace bearer in +position. + + +PLAIN HARD PAD. + +This, while being much firmer and stronger than the soft pad, is but +little more difficult to make. It is designed for heavy wagon harness +where terrets and hooks are to be used. A very good idea of its +construction and appearance may be gathered from the illustration on +page 157, which represents the various pieces drawn to one third their +actual size. + +The top, which is shown by section 1, is cut out of heavy patent or +harness leather; the openings show the positions of the pad screw and +terret: this may be blind stitched if desired, but for general use it +is quite as salable if left plain. If harness leather is used, trim the +edges to a light oval and crease them with a fine creaser. + +[Illustration] + +The bottom piece or lining is shown by section 2; this is cut of light +harness or fold leather. The socket piece, the lower end of which is +shown below the pad top 1, is cut to the same shape as the top, a point +a little below the center of the hole for the pad screw, then it takes +the shape designated by the dotted lines. + +The housing is shown by section 3. This is made of patent leather with +a scolloped border bound around the edge, as shown by A; the square +hole showing the space cut away to admit the back-band. + +The pad plate is shown by section 4. This is of wrought or malleable +iron with threads cut in the holes for the pad screws and terrets; the +crupper loop is cast or forged upon the plate. + +In making up this pad, cut the socket piece from patent leather, the +same size as the plate, and secure it to the latter by means of copper +rivets at the points designated by X, section 4; then draw over the +bottom and tack it to the socket piece, the nails clinching as they +come in contact with the plate; lap the ends of the bottom so as to +obviate the necessity of using a separate gullet piece; then stuff the +pad and place the housing on the socket piece; tuft the ends of the +bottom socket and housing as shown by the cross lines on the lower ends +of 1 and 3; then place the pad top in position, and secure it by the +terrets and pad screws. + +The side pieces are always cut straight and creased or stitched; if +trace bearers are used, the top ends are secured by the pad screws. +The housing is not a necessity with this pad, but it makes it more +ornamental, and is therefore preferred by most buyers. + +Another style of pad which may be made up with or without pad plates +or stuffed pad, is made by cutting a housing piece from heavy patent +leather to the required shape, and covering it with soft collar +leather. If no plate is used, the back strap, which is perfectly +straight and about one and one quarter inches wide, is stitched to +the pad piece before the latter is covered; a chape is attached to +the center for the back strap ring, or a loop check hook may be used +instead; four rivets, with round heads, are used to strengthen the pad +and to give it an ornamental appearance. + +A plain pad, which is used to a considerable extent in New-York upon +team harness, is made of two strips of harness leather; one, forming +the pad and sides, is cut two and a quarter inches wide and fifty-six +inches long, the points one and an eighth inches wide and ten inches +long; the layer is cut seventy-nine inches long and one and an eighth +inches wide; this is stitched to the pad twelve inches each side of +the center; the lower ends are placed even with the bottom ends of +the points, and stitched to them and three inches up on the sides, +the fulness thus secured to the layer makes it answer for a pad trace +bearer; small brass head rivets are placed in the center of the layer +the whole length between the points at intervals of about three inches. +The layer may be left loose in the center, forming a loop for the back +band to pass through, or a billet and ring may be attached instead. A +thin pad, made of two thicknesses of felt and fold or collar leather, +can be added if desired. + +[Illustration: GEORGIA WAGON HARNESS.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +MAKING HARNESS LOOPS. + + +Harness makers have three kinds of leather loops to select from—the +hand made, patent, and pressed. The first are undoubtedly the best, and +are used in preference to all others upon fine harness, some leading +manufacturers using no other kind. Some makers of medium grades also +use them to a considerable extent; but if well made they are too +expensive for common work, and when poorly constructed are inferior to +the other kinds. + +Patent loops are made by being pressed up in hot dies, and are sold to +the trade in every needed size and in a variety of styles. Being nicely +finished and much cheaper than hand made loops, they have taken their +place on medium grades, and are also used to a great extent upon common +harness. Pressed loops are those made up in the workshop, and shaped +by means of dies and presses after they are stitched upon the straps. +The making of these and hand creased alone interest the workman, as the +patent loops are ready for use at the time of purchase. + +Hand made loops possess several advantages over other kinds; they +are more durable, and, owing to the manner of making them, are less +uniform in style of creasing than those made by dies. + +Care in the selection of stock is the first requisite in making +good loops, and the workman is referred to the description of the +various qualities and kinds given on page 36. Next in importance is +the tempering of the stock in water so as to bring it to a condition +where it can be easily worked and yet retain the full impression of +the creasing irons, which it will not do if either too wet or dry. The +general rule is to soak the leather until thoroughly moistened, then +remove it from the water, and allow it to become surface dry before +creasing. Some workmen prefer to moisten the leather but a little +before stitching on, and afterward temper it by the use of water and a +sponge; if, after being stitched on, the leather is found to be too dry +to work well, the fault can be remedied by the use of a moist sponge. +Owing, however, to the marked difference existing in the texture and +fibre of each separate side of leather, and to the various portions of +a single side, there can be no fixed rule given as to the preparation +of it, and the workman must be governed solely by experience. As has +been stated in another chapter, there are certain signs and indications +which furnish an exact guide to the workman, but they are of a nature +which can not be described, and it is his duty to pay strict attention +to the minor details if he would meet with success in the leading +features. + +In order to secure a perfect-shaped loop, it is absolutely necessary +to allow sufficient fulness in the leather to permit the corners being +worked up full and square on the outside. To accomplish this, a fulness +of about ⅜ of an inch over and above the width of the loop stick +should be allowed to a 1¼-inch loop of ordinary thickness, increasing +or diminishing the same as the width or thickness is increased or +diminished. This extra leather must be worked up and outward to the +corners, so that when the loop is completed they are full and square, +otherwise they will be thin and weak at the very point where the +greatest strength is required. + +Hand creased loops are commonly attached by stitching both sides +before creasing. Another method which is preferred by many workmen, as +it obviates much of the difficulty arising from the leather becoming +too dry before it can be creased, is the employment of a clamp in +connection with the loop stick. When this is used, an iron loop stick +is substituted for the wooden one. The back clamp iron is made the full +length of the loop stick, and ⅛ of an inch wider; at either end there +is an ear, which projects about 1 inch above the back iron, the ends +of which are bent over so as to cross the back iron at right angles; +holes are drilled through the ends directly over the center of the back +iron: these are threaded and provided with a thumb screw. When used, +the back iron is placed against the back of the strap, and the thumb +screws tightened against the loop stick, holding the latter and the +leather firmly together. In securing the loop, one side is stitched in +its place and the other properly inserted, after which the screws are +applied and the whole held in position until the loop is creased and +finished, after which it can be stitched fast. + +If the ordinary loop stick is used, both sides must be stitched fast +before the stick is inserted, care being taken to allow the requisite +fulness. First work up the sides with a slicker, then rub down the top, +and continue to work both sides and top until the leather is pressed +firmly against the loop stick, always working toward the corners to +keep them full, then trim the ends perfectly true, and run the edge +creases with a hot creaser, after which trace off the pattern and +outline it with a fine tickler, then crease up with suitable tools: +these can be kept hot and clean by laying the ends upon a metallic +box heated by gas jets or an alcohol lamp, the handles resting upon a +wire support. The secret of success in creasing loops is to define all +corners and outlines correctly before the leather becomes too hard to +receive an impression easily, the working up of the pattern afterwards +being comparatively an easy matter. After the pattern is well worked +up, remove the loop stick and insert an iron one which has been heated +as hot as it can be without danger of burning, then color the leather +with iron and vinegar black, and work over the entire loop with warm +creasers and slickers until the leather is perfectly dry. By this +process the surface will receive a fine polish, and if the color is +good no further operation is needed. If a better black is required, +allow the loop to remain unmolested until thoroughly seasoned, and +apply a slight coat of hatter’s black, and, when dry, polish with a +silk rag. A loop which has been well worked will not be improved by the +use of varnish of any kind. If the loop is properly made it will be +solid and entirely free from grain cracks, the corners full and sharp, +the ornament well raised and correctly defined. A soft loop is an +evidence of a lack of skill, or of carelessness, upon the part of the +workman, for if the leather is in proper condition and worked up as it +should be, it will become firm and hard. + +Pressed loops are the cheapest, and when well made appear nearly as +well when new as the other styles. There has been a marked improvement +in the manner of making them within a few years, and it is difficult, +in some cases, to detect the difference between them and the patent +loops. The same care is necessary in regard to providing fulness in +the leather sufficient to produce square corners as is recommended in +the case of hand made loops. They are needled on, and by the exercise +of a little ingenuity the awl holes on the side last stitched may be +so placed as to be almost undiscernable when the loop is fully pressed +up. The machinery and appliances necessary for pressing up these loops +consist of a good screw press, a metallic box with open ends, the +sides being about 3 inches high on the inside, and the width for other +than pressing cheek loops 3 inches wide in the clear; for cheek loops +a box fully wide enough to admit the winker is necessary; in one side +of the box place two thumb screws about 1½ inches from the bottom, one +within 2 inches of each end; in addition small side plates are needed +to be placed between the sides of the box and the loop, also plates to +be placed upon the bottom for raising or lowering the loop according +to its thickness; iron loop sticks, and the top stamps or dies. In +pressing, the loop stick is placed in its proper position, the strap +laid in the box, and the side screws tightened up until the leather is +pressed firmly against the sides of the loop stick, after which the die +is placed in position and the screw pressure applied to the top. It is +necessary to screw the side plates well up or the heavy pressure on the +top will cause the loop to spread on the top edge. Two minutes under +the press is all that is necessary to secure a firm loop even with +cold irons. By the exercise of a little ingenuity in designing dies, a +variety of patterns may be produced and cheap harness relieved of the +sameness now so prevalent. With pressed as with other loops, much of +the success in their production depends upon the leather being properly +tempered. After the loop is seasoned, color it with vinegar and iron +black, and when dry rub with a woolen cloth, after which it may be +finished the same as hand made loops. By the use of a box of this kind, +together with dies, small loops may be made similar to the patent ones, +and of patterns to match the large ones. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +STITCHING HARNESS. + + +In stitching harness two objects are to be attained—strength and +ornamentation. The first is secured by the use of thread of the +required size to suit the work to be done, making it up properly, +employing an awl that is neither too large nor too small, and drawing +the work well together. The second, by laying the stitches in an +artistic manner so that, when the work is finished, the lines of the +pattern are well maintained and the stitches of a uniform length and +laid true. + +The first point to be considered is the selection of the linen thread +or silk, and the proper manner of making up the strand. Thread as now +sold in the market is designated by numbers; the sizes used by harness +makers are Nos. 0, 10, 3, 12, and 5, the latter being the finest used; +Nos. 6 and 19 are of the same size, but of different colors, 5 being +black, 6 white, and 19 yellow. These sizes should be used in such a +manner as to secure the greatest strength. The rule adopted is to grade +the thread according to the number of stitches to be employed. No. 0, +which is the coarsest, should be made up with four strands, and be +used where the stitches number eight or under to the inch; No. 10 is +a little lighter than No. 0, and is used in the lightest work; where +the stitching is not more than ten nor less than eight to the inch, +three strands are used. No. 3 is also used where the stitching ranges +from eight to ten to the inch, it being finer than either 10 or 0; four +strands are required for all ordinary work; for ten to sixteen to the +inch No. 12 is used, four strands being required. When the stitching +is as fine as eighteen to the inch the same number is used, but only +three strands; for all work finer than eighteen stitches No. 5 is the +only thread used; this is made up with three or four strands, according +to the character of the work to be done. These numbers represent the +ball thread; skein thread, however, varies but little in size with +corresponding numbers, but, owing to its being smoother, it appears +finer. For all heavy work the ball thread answers equally as well as +the skein; but in making up, the thread, while being twisted, should be +well rubbed with the awl handle in order to remove the irregularities. +Where the work to be done is fine and first-class in every respect, use +the skein thread. White thread is preferred, by harness makers who have +tested its merit, on heavy stitching, owing to its possessing greater +strength than the colored. + +Having selected the requisite number of thread, the next thing is to +break off the strands, wax and twist them up; unless this is well +done the work will prove a failure. In running off each strand, it +should be examined to prevent any hard, irregular spot being twisted +up in the thread; in most cases the little lumps which are found are +loose and can be removed without injuring the thread; where this can +not be done, break it off and start anew. For stitching all articles +like traces or other long straps, long threads are desirable in order +to avoid starting with a new thread in the body of the work. Ten to +eleven feet, however, is as great a length as can be used to advantage, +and even this is liable to become weakened by the constant wear before +being used up. In making a thread, untwist and pull apart the strand at +the end, throw the center over a hook, and untwist and pull apart for +the first strand; repeat this operation until the required number of +strands are obtained. Untwisting before breaking the thread is a matter +of much more importance than is generally supposed. If carefully done, +the fibres are separated but not broken, and a smooth, regular, tapered +end can be obtained; but if broken off, the end will be irregular and +cause annoyance in threading the needles or attaching the bristles. + +There is much difference of opinion as to the manner of waxing; some +claim that no wax should be used until the strands are well twisted +together, then they should be rubbed until the thread is well filled, +after which it should be rubbed with a cloth to remove all surplus +wax. Others claim that the principal part of the waxing should be +done before twisting, and that the only benefit derived from using wax +on the surface is to preserve the thread from injury by the friction +occasioned by drawing it through the holes in the leather. A careful +examination of the thread after having been used in stitching, would +seem to give support to the latter method of making up, as it is found, +upon cutting apart, that the amount of wax left on the surface is so +small as to preclude the idea of its being any advantage either as to +strength or resistance to the action of water, while strands which +had been well waxed before twisting retained all but the surface wax. +Fine threads may be made up according to the first plan, but all heavy +threads should be well waxed before twisting. + +After the strands are all broken off, rub them well by giving one turn +around the awl handle and rubbing it back and forth, then apply the +wax, and twist up moderately firm. A thread may be injured by twisting +too firmly as well as by leaving it loose. In the first instance it +will not take the wax well and wears away rapidly; in the second, the +strands are likely to open and show after the stitch is laid. The +workman must therefore depend upon his own judgment as to the proper +amount of twist to be given. The best is the ordinary shoemaker’s black +wax, which is made of equal parts of pitch and tallow, and is a good +wax for general use; but this is too hard for winter, when a larger +percentage of tallow is required, making the proportions one pound +of tallow to three quarters of a pound of pitch. Various degrees of +hardness may be obtained by changing the proportions. This, however, +will not answer for white or light-colored thread. A good wax for this +purpose can be made of refined pitch and tallow, the proportions to be +governed by the degree of hardness desired. Ordinary yellow and white +wax are also used for light thread, but they are not as good as that +made of pitch. + +Stitching, to appear well, must be regular, each stitch being full, +defined, and of equal length. The use of the prick wheel assists +materially toward producing the last result, but unless the workman +handles his awl correctly irregularities will occur. Tastes differ as +to the best position for the stitches. There was a time when straight +stitching was ignored by all leading manufacturers on account of its +resemblance to machine work, but the improvements in the latter soon +made it possible to imitate any hand stitch, and the straight stitch +has once more become popular. The custom now practiced by leading +manufacturers is to lay all heavy stitches ten or less to the inch at +a moderate angle, using a diamond-shaped awl; to secure uniformity the +awl is held in a position which brings a face of the angle on a line +parallel with the top of the jaw of the stitching-horse; to render this +result certain, a portion of the handle is flattened to correspond +with the angle on the awl. If the stitching is sixteen or less to the +inch, the angle is reduced, but the same precaution is taken to secure +regularity. All stitches where there are more than sixteen to the inch, +are laid straight. + +The manner of drawing up the stitches has much to do with their +uniformity: drawing harder on one thread than on the other will produce +irregularity. A common fault with stitchers is to tighten the thread +with one motion as soon as it becomes short enough for them to do so; +this is a serious fault, as it is impossible to lay the stitches even. +No matter what the length of the thread, the tightening up should +always be a distinct motion. If the stitches are to be flat, the force +applied to both threads should be equal; but if a full stitch is +desired on the face side, the thread bearing against the under side +should be drawn the tightest; care must be taken not to draw upon this +thread enough to draw out the channeling. Stitchers are apt to draw the +thread in the awl hand the tightest, and it requires some practice to +overcome this difficulty. + +When performing a piece of work where the stitches are equally exposed +from both sides, it is necessary to change the position of the thread +on the side opposite the awl hand, or the work will be irregular, and +it will be an easy matter to determine which is the right side. To do +this work properly, enter the needles, and when that on the left side +is drawn nearly out, bring the loose thread forward, and throw it over +the needle, and tighten up in the usual manner. If care is taken to +throw the thread over, the work will appear nearly as well upon the +reverse as upon the right side. + +The points to be observed, therefore, are: to drive the awl through at +right angles with the face of the leather, holding it so that it will +always enter the leather in the same position; to draw the threads +carefully, so that each stitch is set in at a uniform depth, and the +fulness retained on the outside. When the work is well fitted up, it +will not require much power to set the stitches correctly. Around +buckles, when the laps have not been previously worked together, it +will require more force to draw the straps together; but under no +circumstance should the stitches be buried into the leather, as this +has a tendency to weaken rather than strengthen the work. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +MAKING ROUND REINS. + + +The very general use of round reins and their effect upon the +appearance of the harness render it necessary that the most approved +manner of making up be thoroughly understood, and entitle this branch +of harness making to a separate notice. In preparing the following +instructions, the grade of round russet reins known as No. 4 has been +selected as the one embracing the various manipulations more thoroughly +than any other, covering as it does all the essential points. + +Good stock is indispensable to success, and care should be taken +to secure smooth, fine-grained, and well tanned rein leather, the +different qualities of which are clearly described in the chapter on +“Russet Leather,” page 33. Cut the leather seven eighths of an inch +wide, and of the full length of the side; soak it in clean water for a +few minutes, and remove a thin shaving from the flesh side; then lay it +out straight upon the board, grain side down, moisten slightly with a +sponge and clean water, and shave down to the required thickness; slick +down nicely while the leather is damp, and measure off five inches from +one end for the billet and stop, and five feet six inches from this +point for the round, with an additional five and a quarter inches +for the handpart lap. Measure off on the rein seven eighths or three +quarters of an inch, or whatever size may be necessary, for the billet; +lay the rein out on the board with the grain side up, secure it firmly +with awls, and with a channeling tool, held firmly in the hand, channel +the five feet six inches which are to be rounded; trim each edge with +an edge tool, as by so doing considerable work, that would otherwise +have to be done with the spokeshave, can be saved and a better job +produced. Cut the width of the billet—which is five inches—on the edge +of the rein, edge it with a small edge tool, stain and rub the edges +until a good polish is produced, then with a seven-eighth inch buckle +punch make the hole for the buckle about three inches from the end, and +with a round knife trim down nearly to a feather edge; turn the rein +about, and stamp with a die, or mark off to a suitable pattern—four +waves running to a point is a good one—stain the edges, and rub them +well, then with a wide edge tool trim them slanting, so as to leave +a raise in the center. Both sides being finished as directed, dampen +the leather with a moist sponge, and with a raising block raise the +handpart end lightly; if raised too much, rub down with a clean piece +of paper, then with a double creaser sink the creases well, and prick +off with a No. 14 prick-wheel, after which rub the edges smooth. + +The rein is now ready for the stop, which is made of two pieces of +clean stock dampened and shaved down to the required thickness, then +pasted together and allowed to dry; when perfectly dry, cut out with a +die, or to a pattern, an egg-shaped or other design; stitch the stop, +trim off the back edge with an edge tool, dampen the edges lightly, +apply the stain, and rub until a good smooth surface and polish are +produced. Heat a narrow iron creaser quite warm over a gas or other +light, crease the edges, and rub them with a rag until they are smooth. +Trim the ends of the stops down thin. + +Next prepare the billet, which is thirteen and one half inches long, by +dampening it well and rubbing it down solid with a slicker; cut out the +end of the billet with a half round punch, and with a small edge tool +take the edge off each side to one half the length, then stain, and rub +smooth with a cloth. Mark off one and one half inches to go into the +round of the rein, and five inches more for the stop; crease up the +billet and punch with a No. 6 round punch, dampen the end that enters +the rein so that it will work easily, trim down to a feather edge, and +then pound down to the mark, so that the stitcher can more easily pull +the round up tight; this being done, tack the billet to the rein and it +is ready to be stitched. + +The billet, as has been stated, is marked off five inches, three inches +of which are for the half-inch loops before and behind the buckle; this +part is channeled the width of the box loop, and a space of one half +inch each way from this loop is stitched with seven or eight stitches, +drawn tight; these make the rein firmer, and give it a better finish. + +After the billet is stitched, the rein is ready for filling up. To do +this, first see that the filling is thoroughly wet, so that it can be +shaved down evenly, and, when the rein is closed up, can be pounded +down to a true and smooth round. In filling up, care should be taken +not to dampen the rein too much, for if too wet the leather can not be +trimmed off smoothly with a spokeshave, and when dried out it becomes +hard and brittle; also, when filling off, the channel, instead of being +close and smooth, will raise and become uneven. The proper course is +to dampen it with a sponge, and pound down immediately. To do this, +take a large awl, run it through one of the holes in the billet, fasten +the rein to the board, and, with a shoemaker’s hammer, pound one edge +down to the end of the rein; then turn the rein over, commence at the +same point as before, and pound the other side down; in this way the +rein is evenly prepared to receive the filling. In placing the latter +in position, always put in the longest pieces at the commencement, and +use the short pieces down at the neck of the rein. At the end, where +the handpart is sewed in, put in an end piece, or sew the handpart into +the round; either will do, but the former is the better plan. After the +rein is closed, if a little dry in places, dampen it slightly with a +sponge, then trim off with a large-sized edge tool, and also trim off +the filling close to the rein; then pound down on a board iron made +for this purpose, having a half round groove in which to place the +rein. The use of this groove materially lessens the labor and helps +to secure a good round. Some workmen use a flat stone or board iron +without a groove, but it is poor policy to do so, as it has a tendency +to flatten the leather where it bears upon the stone. + +The rein is now ready to be rounded up, which is done by pulling it +through the rounding machine three or four times, after which trim off +the edges with a sharp spokeshave as round and evenly as possible; +dampen the rein slightly with a moist sponge, pull it through the +rounding machine three or four times more, and then with a hand rounder +rub up and down all over the round, the object being to touch all the +parts that the machine has failed to reach, thereby making them smooth. +Then, with a sponge and a solution of oxalic acid, clean off the rein +and hang it up to dry. When dry, or nearly so, apply a small quantity +of a stain made of anotta and saffron in the proportion of one pint +of the former to a half gill of the latter. After dampening the reins, +block up the loops, trim nicely from the end of the rein to the box +loop, stain, and rub down smoothly; dampen the round slightly with the +stain, and rub briskly until a nice, smooth polish appears. In order to +preserve the color on the rein, dissolve shellac in alcohol, and with a +clean sponge apply it to every part of the rein; this, in addition to +preserving the color, produces a good lustre on the leather. + +Rein ends can be made up in a variety of styles, but the general +directions for manufacture are the same. Their use is to prevent the +Martingale ring coming in contact with the buckle, or bit ring, where +it will catch fast, and at the same time provide a neat ornament +for the end of the rein. In cutting the harness maker should aim to +make them not less than one quarter of an inch wider than the inside +diameter of the Martingale ring. Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 show four +patterns, all but fig. 4 being made up as previously directed. This is +made without buckles, but a small piece of steel is bent at the point +where the rein joins to the ornament, which is stitched in between the +straps. This steel hook is sometimes used with other styles of rein +ends. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES. + + +In manufacturing bridles, the harness maker has an excellent +opportunity to exercise taste in designing and embellishing, for in no +part of the harness is there so much opportunity given to introduce new +ideas without interfering with the proper shape of the article; then, +too, they are the most ornate part of the harness, and there is less +liability to overdo in decoration. The winkers may be made in a variety +of styles, stitched plain or in fancy patterns; the cheeks can be +finished up in different ways, while the crowns, face pieces, fronts, +gag runners, nose and chin pieces are all susceptible of a variety of +changes in form or finish. There is no portion of a coach harness more +difficult to make, and for that reason the bridle maker holds a high +position in the business. + +The general details for making are given in connection with the +instructions for making harness in a previous chapter. Attaching the +winkers to the cheeks must be done in the best manner to prevent them +from “hinging;” always clean off the gum where the patent leather +enters the cheek pieces, so that the paste may adhere, and skive off to +secure a smooth job. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +The most popular patterns for coach winkers are the slightly ovaled +end and the full oval. For light buggy and road harness, square or +square with round corners are preferred. Coupé, team, and heavy express +winkers are similar to those used for coaches, while for wagon, cart, +and other cheap harness the square pattern is preferred. The various +plates in this book will give the reader a good idea of the popular +form for winkers, though other styles are also used to a considerable +extent. The illustrations of bridles in connection with this chapter +show some of the distinctive patterns in detail. Fig. 1 represents the +English coach bridle with the oval winker. This is the popular style +for all coach and heavy coupé harness, though no exclusive pattern of +winkers, cheek loops, or crown piece layers is followed. It is known as +the bradoon swivel, the peculiarity being the attaching of the check +rein to a billet stitched to the crown piece, passing it through a +swivel on the bradoon bit, thence up to the gag runner. The cuttings +are: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 28 1¾ + Ends, split 6½ ¾ + Layer 9 ¾ + Gag runners 12 ¾ + Front 28 1⅛ + Nose and chin piece 33 1⅛ + Cheeks 29 ¾ + Made up between buckles 8 + Bradoon rein 26 1 + Rounded 20 + Center rein 60 ¾ + Throat latch 27 ¾ + Crown billets for bradoon rein 13 ¾ + Face piece 12 + Billet ¾ + Winker strap 13 1½ + Billet 5 ¾ + Split 7 + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +The narrow loops and center bar buckles give this bridle a showy +appearance, but the regular buckles and pipe cheek loops are the most +popular. With this and all other bridles where the face piece is used, +a thin piece of steel should be attached to the under side to keep it +in position. + +Fig. 2 represents another style of bradoon bridle, in which the bradoon +bit is attached to a round cheek piece, and the swivel is dispensed +with. It is claimed that a bridle of this kind causes the horse less +pain, while being equally as effective as a check. The lengths for +cutting are the same as those for Fig. 1, with the exception of the +round cheeks, which must be ten inches long between the buckles. + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 7.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 8.] + +Fig. 3 represents a third style of bradoon bridle, the extra cheek +being flat. + +Fig. 4 is also a bradoon bridle, but differs from the preceding ones in +the manner of attaching the gag runner. + +Fig. 5 represents a plainer style of bridle, suited to the lighter +grades of coach and road harness. + +Fig. 6 is designed for light double harness; one of the plainest kinds +in use. + +Fig. 7 represents a very neat bridle for single or light double harness. + +Fig. 8, a plain bridle with a half Kemble-Jackson check. + +Fig. 9, a heavy bridle for a team harness; the tugs on the ends of the +cheeks are cut of patent leather, and may be ornamented with monograms +or initial letters. + +Fig. 10 is designed for a team bridle, but is made up without winkers; +the cheeks may be made as represented, or rounded. The latter appear +much the lightest. The face piece may be flat or round. The most +popular style of finishing is to round the ends below the face +ornament, leaving the upper part flat. + +Fig. 11 represents a plain team harness bridle without winkers, the +cheeks made up with patent leather ornaments and without buckles; the +crown, cheeks, and throat latch billets are cut of one piece; the +ornaments are stitched to the cheeks at the front piece, and held in +position by two loops; or the patent leather ornaments may be lined and +stitched, leaving the ends open to admit the cheek pieces; a cross face +piece can be used in place of the nose piece, if preferred. The crown +and cheeks are cut thirty-eight inches long. The measurements for the +other straps are the same as those used for regular team bridles. + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 10.] + +Fig. 12 represents a German Court bridle. + +Crown pieces are made up in a variety of styles, a number of which +are given on page 195. A and B have the straight layer, but different +styles of cheeks; C has no layer, the gag runner being attached to the +throat latch billet; D has a folded crown piece with the layer, throat +latch, and cheek billets cut in one, the layer being cut with an extra +billet for the gag runner ring; E has the plain double waved layer; F +has a short layer for the half Kemble-Jackson check, the gag runner +being attached to the check. The same style of layer is used for the +full Kemble-Jackson check. In both instances the opening for the check +is made by a wedge-shaped piece stitched between the layer and crown +piece. G shows the crown, with a short layer for securing the head +terret, and an extra billet for the gag runner; H shows a plain strap +layer, with an oval loop and a ring for a gag runner. This is used +for carrying the gag rein well up and close to the cheek. I shows the +common fold crown, with a plain waved layer. + +[Illustration: FIG. 11.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 12.] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration:] + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +RIDING BRIDLES. + + +Riding bridles, though forming a very important portion of the +harness maker’s stock, are much less varied in character than most +other leading articles, because display is not an important matter +except in a limited number of cases. The military and ladies’ dress +bridles are the only ones ornamented to any extent; even in these the +principal strapping is a duplicate of the less pretentious article. The +ornamenting consists of cross face or other similar decorations. + +Bridles take their name, except in isolated cases, from the style of +bit used, the headstall of a Pelham, bradoon, port, or snaffle being of +the same pattern, made up with or without billets for the bit rings. +Figs. 1, 2, and 3 represent a bradoon, or loose ring, a double rein +port, and a Pelham, the strapping, with the exception of the reins, +being the same in all. The regular lengths and widths for cutting with +and without billets are: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown piece 24 1⅜ + Split 7 + Cheeks 13 ¾ + Without billets 15 ¾ + Billets 8 ¾ + Throat latch, two buckles 12 ⅝ + Front 22 ¾ + Reins 52 ¾ + Billets 8 ¾ + Without billets 56 ¾ + +[Illustration: FIG. 1. Bradoon.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2. Double Rein Post.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3. Pelham.] + +Fig. 4 is a plain snaffle bridle, the lengths for cutting being the +same as those previously noticed; Fig. 5 is a single round cheek +bridle, in which but two pieces are used for the cheeks and crown; the +throat latch is cut in one piece and is rounded the whole length, the +ends being joined by a leather tassel. The cuttings are: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Cheek, buckle side 20 ¾ + billet side 24 ¾ + rounded 12 + Billets 9 ¾ + Throat latch 39 ¾ + Reins 54 ¾ + rounded 18 + Billets 9 ¾ + Front 24 ¾ + rounded 11½ + Curb straps 22 ½ + +[Illustration: FIG. 4. Plain Snaffle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5. Round Check.] + +Fig. 6 is a double cheek bridle with a plain port and a light bradoon +bit. The cheeks and crown piece for each bit are cut in one piece. The +cuttings are: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Port cheeks and crown 34 ¾ + rounded 12 + Bradoon cheeks and crown 36 ¾ + rounded 12 + Billets 8 ¾ + +Fig. 7 represents another style of double cheek bridle, the cuttings +for which are the same as for Fig. 5, both cheeks being of the same +length; the nose strap, which may be used or not, is cut three quarters +of an inch wide and twenty-eight inches long, and rounded fifteen +inches. + +Fig. 8 represents a double cheek bridle, in which the cheek pieces on +each side are cut in one; the crown piece for the cheek is also cut as +one; it is doubled and buckled on the crown, and is provided with two +small slide loops; the throat latch and crown are cut in one as are +also the nose and chin pieces. The cuttings are: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Cheeks 33 ¾ + rounded 24 + Billets 8 ¾ + Crown piece, made up as hame strap 24 ¾ + Throat latch 39 ⅝ + +Fig. 9 represents a style of double cheek and bit bridle made up with +long cheeks and without billets. The cuttings are: + +[Illustration: FIG. 6. Double Check, Port, and Bradoon.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 8. Double Check, Round.] + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Cheeks, port, buckle side 20 ¾ + billet side 24 ¾ + Bradoon, bit, buckle side 22 ⅝ + billet side 26 ⅝ + Throat latch 22 ⅝ + Front, made up 13 ½ + Bradoon reins 90 ¾ + Port reins 96 ¾ + Billets 8 ¾ + +The peculiarity of these bridles is the manner in which the port cheeks +and throat latches are cut and made up, and the use of separate straps +for the crown and cheeks for the bradoon bits. The English Weymouth +bridle is not as popular in this country as the port and bradoon. It +has double cheeks, one of which is buckled into the ring on the top of +the bit check, the other is cut longer and is buckled into the rein +ring at the end of the mouth piece, the bit used being the Pelham. + +[Illustration: FIG. 7.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.] + +Three kinds of leather are used for bridles—black harness, russet, +and buff. Light weights should be used in all cases, and the cheek +straps and reins cut from the firmest part of the side. English russet +has long been a favorite brand of leather, but the better grades of +American are equal to it in every respect. Buff leather is used to a +considerable extent for flat fancy bridles, to be used with saddles +having seat and knee pads made of buckskin. This leather, being soft, +is not creased, and is stitched no more than is absolutely necessary +to secure the various straps. Cheap bridles are sometimes made up with +plated rosettes, but leather is used on all finer grades. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +HALTERS. + + +Halters constitute a very important part of the harness maker’s stock. +The varieties are numerous; though apparently unnecessary, they are +required to suit the preferences of different sections of the country, +and render it obligatory on harness makers to be prepared at all times +to meet the demands of their customers. The many illustrations in +this chapter will enable the manufacturer to present to his customers +correct representations to select from, while the lengths for cutting +and the directions for making up will be found of great value in the +work shop. + +Fig. 1. represents the United States Government regulation halter, the +principal merit of which is its strength and simplicity; it is easy +to adjust, and can not be slipped off by the horse rubbing his head +against posts or other objects. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown piece 26 + Chape 8 + Cheeks 14 + Throat piece 22 + Chin piece, if double 30 + single 18 + Nose piece 18 + Bolt piece 18 + made up 6 + Hitching strap, or stem 84 + Billet 10 + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +The regulation width is 1¼ inches; for general use, however, 1 inch is +wide enough. + +Fig. 2 is the Spanish halter; it bears a general resemblance to Fig. +1, from which it was modeled, but it is put together in a different +manner; has a front and a cockeye attached to the bolt piece; all the +straps but the front are cut long, and are doubled and stitched. The +lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown piece 42 + Buckle chape 8 + Throat piece 28 + Buckle chape 21 + Cheek pieces 17 + Nose piece 34 + Chin piece 36 + Bolt piece 10 + Front 19 + +All the straps but the front are 1¼ inches wide; the latter is 1 inch +wide; =D= rings are used for the upper, and square loops for the lower, +ends of the cheeks. + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +Fig. 3 is a heavy French stall halter of ornamental design and finish; +it is used as a bridle halter as well. The cutting lengths are: + + Inches. + Crown piece 24 + End split 5 + Cheek pieces 11 + Nose piece 16 + Chin piece 17 + Chape 6 + Throat latch 22 + Front 18 + Lining to nose piece 24 + +The crown piece is 2¼ inches wide, the cheeks 1¼ inches, and all other +straps 1 inch; the lining, which is of patent leather, is 2¼ inches +wide in the center. + +Fig. 4 is a heavy cleaning, or groom, halter. The nose piece is made +with a flat iron top, having three rings attached, these being used to +secure the horse’s head in any desired position. The nose piece plate +is lined with heavy leather, and padded. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown piece 22 + Split 6 + Cheeks 15 + Throat latch 22 + Front 27 + Nose piece 13 + Pad roll 11 + Chin billet 11 + Chape 6 + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +The crown piece is cut 1½ inches, the throat latch ⅝ of an inch, all +other straps 1 inch wide. + +Fig. 5 represents a training halter of a neat and tasty design. All the +principal straps are cut of bridle or buff leather, or of heavy twilled +white web; the chapes of black harness leather for light colored +leather halters, and bridle or buff leather for web halters. The chapes +are all of an ornamental pattern; those for securing the ends of the +strapping to the rings are cut double, those holding the throat strap +rings have a small billet by which the rings are secured. The lengths +for cutting are: + + Inches. + Long check piece 23 + Short ” ” 17 + Throat piece 18 + Nose piece 12 + Chin piece 10 + Buckle chape 8 + Bolt piece, made up 6½ + +The cheeks and bolt pieces are 1 inch wide, nose and chin pieces ⅞ of +an inch wide. + +[Illustration: FIG. 8.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 7.] + +Fig. 6 is another style of training halter, which, like the preceding +one, is made of buff, russet, or black leather, or of linen web. When +the latter is used, the chapes should be of russet leather; metallic +rosettes having a stout center pin and four loops on the under side are +used to connect the various parts, thus dispensing with buckles except +on the throat latch chape; if these rosettes are not accessible, square +loops may be used for the lower ends of the cheeks, and a buckle be +attached to the short cheek piece, using fancy or plain leather for +rosettes. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Long cheek, including crown piece 27 + Short cheek 15 + Front 19 + Chin piece 18 + Nose piece 18 + Throat latch 17 + Billet 9 + +If web and leather layers are used, deduct from these lengths 3 inches +for each lap. The cheeks are cut 1¼ inches, the nose, front, and chin 1 +inch, and the throat latch ⅞ of an inch wide. + +[Illustration: FIG. 10.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.] + +Fig. 7 represents a bitting halter, one of the most desirable styles in +use. It closely resembles the straight cheek style of years past, the +only difference being in the manner of attaching the throat piece, and +in the use of two short cheeks. This may be made of buff, russet, or +black leather. The buckles used on the cheeks are extra heavy, the side +bar being made to answer as a substitute for loops to which the throat +piece is attached. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown piece 32 + Cheeks 10 + Chin, double 24 + Buckle chape 8 + Nose 18 + Throat piece 22 + Loop piece 15 + +All the straps with the exception of the throat piece are cut 1¼ inches +wide; this is cut 1 inch. + +Fig. 8 closely resembles Fig. 7, the difference being in the manner +of attaching the throat strap, and the use of but one buckle on the +cheeks. The cuttings are the same, with the exception of the cheek +pieces, which are cut: + + Inches. + Long cheek 25 + Short cheek 16 + +The loops used for securing the throat piece are of metal or leather, +and are provided with a short screw, by which they are held in position. + +[Illustration: FIG. 12.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 11.] + +Fig. 9 represents a strong stable halter, of different construction +than any previously noticed. The cheeks, crowns, and throat latch are +cut so as to obviate the use of the usual buckles or rings in the cheek +pieces. The billet to the stem and the bolt, or loop piece, are also in +one piece. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Long cheek, including throat latch 52 + Short cheek, including billet to throat latch 29 + Front, double 22 + Nose, double 23 + Chin, double 23 + Billet to stem 18 + +Fig. 10 represents another peculiar style, commonly known as the Yankee +halter. It is designed for a slip halter, and is easily made. The +lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Head piece 50 + Nose piece 28 + Braces 12 + Hitching strap 84 + +All the straps are cut of uniform width, either 1 or 1¼ inches. Attach +the braces 9 inches from the ring on the head piece. + +Fig. 11 represents a double cheek halter, designed to be used for +training purposes. The lengths for cuttings are: + + Inches. + Crown 20 + Buckle chape 8 + Cheeks 22 + Billets 9 + Extra crown piece 22 + Nose piece 18 + Chin piece, double 24 + Front 22 + Throat latch 22 + +The crown piece is cut 1 inch wide; all other straps, ¾ of an inch wide. + +Fig. 12 represents another style of four ring halter, the buckles +being in the cheek pieces; the rings may be covered with a rosette, if +desired. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown 17 + Cheeks 14 + Cheek billets 7 + Nose piece 18 + Chin, double 30 + Throat piece 26 + Bolt piece 5½ + +The cheeks, crown, and bolt piece are cut 1¼ inches wide; the other +straps, 1 inch. + +Fig. 13 is also designed for a training halter. The lengths for cutting +are: + + Inches. + Long cheek and crown 32 + Short cheek 15 + Throat latch and crown in one 42 + Nose piece, double 24 + Chin piece, double 23 + Loop piece 8 + +[Illustration: FIG. 13.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 14.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 15.] + +All the straps are 1 inch wide, excepting the front: this is ¾ of an +inch. + +Fig. 14 represents a double cheek halter without buckles, except on +the top of the crown. The nose and cheeks are secured in position by a +layer which secures the rings; the throat latch is stitched to the back +cheek piece just below the face piece. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Cheeks 21 + Throat latch 20 + Billet 6 + Nose piece, double 23 + Chin piece, double 25 + Loop piece 8 + +The cheeks are cut ½ inch wide; other straps, 1 inch. + +Fig. 15 represents a four ring halter with front, and buckles on the +cheeks. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Cheeks 12 + Billets 5½ + Crown piece 18 + Buckle chape 8 + +All other straps, as well as the widths, the same as in Fig. 1. + +Fig. 16 represents a very convenient slip halter. The lengths for +cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown piece 21 + Throat and cheek pieces in one 38 + Nose and chin piece in one 24 + +All the straps are cut 1 inch wide. + +Fig. 17 represents a convenient style of team halter to be worn with +the bridle. The lengths for cutting are: + + Inches. + Crown and throat latch in one 30 + Nose and chin strap in one 26 + Cheeks 10 + Bolt piece 7 + +Cuttings for a common bridle or three ring halter: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Cheek, including crown piece 34 1 + Short 12 1 + Front 24 1 + Nose band 18 1 + Chin, doubled 30 ⅞ + Bolt piece 18 1 + Throat latch 39 ¾ + Stem 84 1 + Billet 9 1 + Bit strap 9 1 + +[Illustration: FIG. 17.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 16.] + +A web halter: + + Length, Width, + inches. inches. + Crown 24 1¼ + Cheeks 8 1¼ + Chapes 5 1⅛ + Front 12 1¼ + Chapes 8 1⅛ + Nose 13 1¼ + Throat latch, leather 39 ¾ + Chin piece, leather 30 ¾ + Bolt piece 18 1 + +Yankee one ring halter: + + Crown piece, nose and chin in one 84 1 + Braces 12 1 + +To make this halter, cut for the buckle tongue, and bend down the +buckle lap; then measure off 12 inches, and bend down for ring; then +28 inches, and bend for nose band; then place the brace in the center +between the front of the nose band and center of the chin piece at the +ring; cross the strap through the ring, and bring the crown end up on +the off side: this will place the buckle on the near side. Set the +crown piece at an angle so as to take the upper end of the braces. This +makes a convenient halter, which easily adjusts itself to the head of +any horse. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +HORSE BOOTS. + + +The artist who pictured a horse on the track with his legs encased in +boots, etc., from the bottom of the hoof up to the body, was not so +far from the truth as many persons would suppose, for there is no part +of the limb, from the knee down, for which boots are not made. The +illustrations in this chapter represent the general styles, though not +all the varieties in the market. There are many patented boots, some of +them possessing merit, a description of which would be of no practical +use to the harness maker. There are several classes of boots, such as +the knee, shin, ankle, quarter, and combination, each of which has its +distinctive name. + +The illustrations in this chapter have an advantage over those found +elsewhere, in that nearly all are drawn in exact proportions; and +the descriptions are such that a harness maker may readily furnish a +customer with any desired pattern. Making horse boots is not a simple +operation: success depends upon their being so constructed that they +will retain their position without being strapped so tight as to +interfere with the freest movement of the horse’s leg. To accomplish +this, the leather used for shields must be worked up firm and the +securing straps placed where they will draw in direct lines. When +fullness is to be given to the shields, the best plan is to cut out a +V and stitch the edges together; they may, however, be stamped up with +dies. For convenience, each class will be described separately. + +Fig. 1 represents one of the best styles of knee boot in use; it is +made of heavy bridle leather, cut in two pieces, as shown by A and B; +the former is worked up nearly flat, except that portion below D, where +it is shaped to fit to B, which is worked up full in the center; a +gore is taken out at C, and the edges joined to secure the shape. The +securing strap, D, is of medium weight bridle leather, and is stitched +to the shield before the lining is put in. The lining, which is of +buckskin, is turned in all around, so that the edge is placed between +the two pieces, and stitched down all around; a very little wool or +hair is placed between the two, and the center is secured by stitching +at the highest point in the shield B. The securing strap is also lined +with buckskin and stuffed with felt; the billet, which is twenty inches +long and one half inch wide, is stitched to the securing strap. The +buckle chape is stitched to a strong loop at the other end of the main +strap; the two small loops hold the billet in position, it being passed +around the boot before it is buckled; the drawing is one quarter size. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +Fig. 2 is a plain, heavy knee boot. This is cut from one piece of +leather; that portion above the securing strap is flat, the lower part +has a half inch raise in the center; the lining is of buckskin, wool +or hair being used for padding. The securing strap is cut of good, +firm leather, and lined with buckskin, padded with felt. The billet is +cut one half inch wide and fourteen inches long. There are five small +loops, each one inch long, placed as shown on the main strap. The +drawing is one quarter size. + +Fig. 3 represents a peculiar shaped but desirable knee boot. It is cut +from one piece of harness or bridle leather; the cap piece is gored +in two places, to produce the requisite fullness; it is lined with +buckskin and padded with a single thickness of felt; the lining is +cut large and the edge turned in so as to form a roll all around; two +heavy pads are attached to the under side as bearings; one is shown +by the line X, the other is placed directly under the buckle; the +center-pad is nearly one inch thick, the one under the buckle is about +three quarters of an inch thick; both are made of felt placed under the +buckskin. This boot when made up is nine inches long. The proportions +in the drawing are based upon that measurement. + +Fig. 4 differs but little in shape from Fig. 3, but is made up plainer. +The proportions are the same. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4. FIG. 5.] + +Figs. 6 and 7 represent two patterns of knee boots of an entirely +different model from the above. They are also much lighter. The body +of Fig. 6 is made of enameled leather, lined throughout with buckskin; +the shield is of heavy harness leather struck up full, and slightly +padded with felt. The bearing pads, shown by the dotted lines, are +raised about three quarters of an inch; they are of felt, covered with +buckskin. The long or top billet is cut eight inches long and three +quarters of an inch wide; the bottom billet is cut six inches long and +three quarters of an inch wide; a small gore is cut at X; the edges are +drawn together and blind stitched before the lining is stitched in. The +drawing is one third the full size. + +Fig. 7, though designed for the same purpose as Fig. 6, is much +lighter, and, being more open, is less likely to bind when on the knee. +The lower billet is so placed that it does not bear upon the cords +sufficiently to displace it when the knee is bent. It is made up in +the same manner and of similar material as Fig. 6. The upper or leg +strap is cut nineteen inches long and five eighths of an inch wide; the +lower billet is cut ten inches long and one half inch wide. The other +proportions, as shown, are one third the full size. + +Fig. 5 represents a knee pad or breaking boot; the body is made of +heavy felt; the leg strap is stitched to the felt and lined with +buckskin; the knee safe is made of several thicknesses of bridle +leather, worked up full in the center. + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 7.] + +Combination boots are made in a great variety of styles, there being +at least fifty different patterns in use. The principal portion of the +shield is designed expressly to protect the shin; to this is attached +a cap piece for covering the knee or ankle. The styles illustrated +comprise the regular lines, and, with the slight variations necessary +to secure a good fit, are all that are needed. + +Fig. 8 represents a shin and ankle boot. The body is made of heavy +felt, the shield of harness leather, worked up full at the ankle +end; the latter is stitched to the body with a single row around the +edge and a few stitches at each end. The shaded spaces on each side +represent strips of leather; the blank space A, strips of elastic web; +these are attached to the body by the stitching shown on the strips +nearest the shield; the remaining portion of the webs and the straps to +which the buckle chapes and billets are attached are left loose, the +portion of the body under them acting as a safe; by the use of these +elastic strips the boot is freed from the rigidity so often noticeable, +and the horse is relieved from any undue pressure. The shield when made +up is eight inches long; the reduced size of the drawing is based upon +that measurement. + +Another style of shin and ankle boot is shown by Fig. 9, which may +also be used as a shin and knee boot. The body is of heavy felt, bound +on the top and bottom edges with thin leather, and lined throughout +with buckskin; the shield is padded with hair. The dimensions of this +boot are: body, nine inches wide and six and one half inches deep; the +billets are four inches, and the buckle chapes three inches, long. The +shield is reduced in the same proportions as the body. + +[Illustration: FIG. 8.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.] + +A light cord and knee boot is shown by Fig. 10. The body is made of +black enameled leather, lined with buckskin, double stitched. The +shield is of heavy harness leather, worked up full and padded with +hair, the buckskin lining extending the full length of the shield. The +billets are cut three eighths of an inch wide and seven inches long, +the buckle chapes the same width and one and one quarter inches long; +the proportions are one sixth the full size. + +Fig. 11 illustrates a knee and cord boot of another pattern. The body +is cut of medium weight harness leather, and bound with light enameled +leather; the leg strap is made of strips of black enameled leather, +stitched together on the edges and through the center, and stuffed with +hair; it is attached to the body by two thicknesses of black enameled +leather; the shield is of heavy leather, padded with hair. The billets +on the body are five inches long and one half inch wide; the billet on +the leg strap is five and one half inches long and one half inch wide. +The drawing is one sixth actual size. + +[Illustration: FIG. 10.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 11.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 12.] + +Fig. 12 represents a combined shin, ankle, and cord boot. The body, B, +is of heavy felt, bound with buckskin; the shield, A, of heavy harness +leather, worked up full at the lower end; D, a piece of heavy leather, +lined with buckskin, stuffed with hair so as to make a cushion about +one half inch thick; C, two pieces of elastic web, the outside piece +being cut a little wider than the other; the web is secured in position +by the stitching which is used to attach the shield A and piece D to +the body and lining; the billets are attached at the shield, and pass +through small loops near the outer edge of the body; E represents the +cord piece, made of heavy leather, lined with buckskin at the lower +end, an inside layer being attached at the top of the cap and extending +up to the top, where there are two holes, as shown in E, through which +a round leather lacer passes, and by which the top ends are joined. +When the cord piece is used, the thin piece is placed between the two +pieces of web, C, and the top, secured by the lacer. The drawing is one +fourth the actual size. + +Two other styles of combination boots are shown by Figs. 13 and 14, an +ankle and wrist boot. Fig. 13, the body, is of heavy blue kersey, bound +with light enameled leather; the shield is of heavy harness leather; +the ankle portion is worked up full and hard; owing to the thickness +of the material used in the body, no stuffing is used. The wrist strap +is of elastic web; it passes between the shield and body, and is held +in position by the stitching. The billets for the top are cut five and +one half inches long and one half inch wide; the kersey body is cut +nine and one half inches wide across the top and eight inches long; the +shield is three and three quarter inches in diameter; all other parts +are drawn to the same scale. + +[Illustration: FIG. 14.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 13.] + +Fig. 14 represents a combined shin, ankle, and wrist boot, made up of +the same materials and in the same manner as Fig. 13. It is cut two +inches longer than the latter, otherwise the proportions are the same; +the billets are cut five inches long and one half inch wide. The wrist +web is seven eighths of an inch wide. + +Fig. 15 shows a design of shin and ankle boot intended as a protection +to the hind legs. The body is made of black enameled leather, lined +throughout with buckskin. The shin shield has but little fullness, +and is padded on the under side with hair placed between the enameled +leather and the buckskin, the padded section being quilted to hold the +hair in position. The body to the ankle portion is also of enameled +leather, lined in like manner as the shin body; the shield is of +harness leather, worked up full and hard. The set of this piece depends +much upon the position of the billets and buckle chape; these are shown +in their proper position. The body of the shin boot is eight and three +quarter inches across the top and ten and three quarter inches across +the bottom; the shield is seven and three quarter inches long; the +ankle shield is two and three quarter inches in diameter, all other +proportions being relatively the same. The ankle billet is cut eight +inches long and five eighth inches wide, about one half the length +being rounded and covered with buckskin. + +[Illustration: FIG. 15.] + +A shin, ankle, and speedy cut boot is shown by Fig. 16, which, like +the preceding boot, is designed for the hind leg, the pattern being +one of the best in use; the speedy cut portion, C, is made up separate +from the shin boot, and is held in position by the lower billet of the +latter passing through a long loop on the top end. The body, B, is of +heavy kersey; the shield, of harness leather, worked up slightly in the +leg part and full at the ankle; the under side of the shield is padded +with hair; the pastern piece, C, is of black enameled leather, lined +with buckskin; the shield, D, of harness leather, slightly rounded up; +the billet attached to the pastern piece is covered for about one half +its length with buckskin. The two upper boot billets are five inches +long and five eighths of an inch wide; the lower billet is cut nine +inches long; the pastern billet is cut eight inches long, one half inch +wide. The illustration is drawn to one quarter the full size. + +[Illustration: FIG. 16.] + +Fig. 17 represents an improved ankle boot, lighter than most other +kinds, and the location of the shield is such as to give greater +protection to the ankle than that of the ordinary boot. The body is +cut of harness leather; the shield, which is two and one half inches +in diameter, is made of harness leather, worked up full and hard; a +gore is taken out of the body, the edges are closed up smooth under the +concave of the shield. Two bearing cushions are used, one under the +buckle chape, the other as shown by the dotted lines near the billet; +these are of felt, covered with buckskin; the one under the chape is +two and one quarter inches; the other, one and one half inches long +and seven eighths of an inch wide; the boot is lined throughout with +thin patent leather. The full measurements are: length on the top line, +eight and one half inches; width of square ends, one inch; depth at +the widest point, four inches. The center of the shield is six and one +quarter inches from the top corner at the billet end and five inches at +the buckle end; the billet is six inches long and one half inch wide. + +Fig. 18 represents a plain, cheap ankle boot; the body is of heavy +kersey, single or double; the shield is of harness leather, worked up +full and hard at the ankle; the shield is six inches long and three and +one half inches wide at the widest point and two inches wide at the +top; the proportions of the body are based upon this measurement. The +billets are five and one half inches long and one half inch wide; they, +as well as the buckle chapes, are stitched to the body two and one half +inches back of the edges. + +[Illustration: FIG. 17.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 18.] + +A more expensive boot is shown by Fig. 19. The shield is of heavy +russet leather struck up full and hard; the body is of heavy kersey, +bound with buckskin; the leg strap is of russet leather; it is nine +inches long and one inch wide; it, as well as the shield, is secured +to the body by a single row of stitching. The various proportions are: +shield, four and one half inches long, three and one half inches wide +at the broadest point and two inches at the leg strap; the bearing pad, +A, is one and one half inches long and one half inch thick; the billet +is cut six inches long and one half inch wide. + +Fig. 20 represents the hard leather cup ankle boot. The body is cut of +heavy harness leather; a large gore is cut out of the top side, the +edges of which are afterwards joined and blind stitched on the outside; +the edges of the gore must be cut with a slight curve, in order to +secure a regular circular fullness; the layer is cut of heavy leather, +worked up full and stitched to the body; the buckle chape is cut three +and one half inches long, and the billet eleven inches long. Two +bearing cushions are used; one is shown by C, the outlines of the other +by the dotted line near the top of the shield. These are of buckskin, +stuffed with hair. The inside of the boot is skived off smooth all +around the lower edge, care being taken to avoid all irregularities. +The small cut A represents a side view of this boot. The large drawing +is one half actual size. + +Heel boots constitute a distinct class, of which there is a great +variety; but those shown by the illustrations are all that are required +for general use. Fig. 21 represents a well fitting boot of this class; +the body is cut of medium weight harness leather; the layer is cut +of heavy stock, worked up hard and stiffened by the layer under the +shield; three gores are cut out of the top of the body, and the edges +are joined and secured by blind stitches; a small section is gashed to +form a fringe. The body is cut nine and one half inches long on the top +line, four and one half inches deep in the center, and three inches at +the ends; the shield is six inches long and two and one half inches +deep; the billets are three inches long and one and one half inches +wide. + +[Illustration: FIG. 19.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 20.] + +[Illustration] + +A plain, serviceable quarter boot is shown by Fig. 22; it is made of a +single piece of heavy harness leather, lined with felt; the top edge +is cut as shown to provide a yielding surface and prevent injury to +the horse; six gores are taken out of the bottom; the edges are joined +to produce the required shape; the felt lining extends to the top and +within one half inch of the bottom, and is secured as shown by the +lines of stitching. Buckles are not used, the ends being fastened by +means of loops attached to one, and holes cut through the other to +admit their passing through; they are then locked by a heavy billet +as shown. An ordinary boot is fourteen inches long on the top line of +stitches, the line being described by a twelve inch radius; the lower +line is contracted by the goring to twenty inches; the depth when made +up is four inches. + +Fig. 23 represents a toe boot for the hind foot; this is made up of +heavy harness leather; the top section, indicated by the dotted line, +is lined with buckskin and padded. The full length of the body is +twelve inches; depth, five and one half inches; the bottom line has a +sweep of three inches; the buckle and roller loop chape is cut three +and one half inches long. + +[Illustration: FIG. 21.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 22.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 23.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 24.] + +Another boot designed for the same purpose is shown by Fig. 24; this +is cut of heavy leather, the top being lined with buckskin to make a +cushion one inch deep. + +Toe weight boots are designed for an entirely different purpose than +those previously noticed, but they properly belong to this department. + +Fig. 25 represents a boot with two weights, A; these are of lead, +covered with leather. The body of the boot is of heavy leather, cut +twenty-one and three quarter inches long on the lower line, and three +and one eighth inches deep in the center. The billet is fourteen inches +long and five eighths of an inch wide; the buckle chape is nine and one +half inches long; it is attached to the lower edge of the body, and +passes through a slot on the opposite side; the billet is attached in +like manner and passed through a similar slot. + +Another toe weight is shown by Figs. 26 and 27; the body, A, is of +leather, having two slots as shown by X; the weight, B, is of lead, +secured by an adjustable hook shown by Fig. 27; this is secured by a +single strap which passes through the slots in the body and hook. A +combined weight and quarter boot is shown by Fig. 28. The body is cut +of one piece, of heavy leather, the quarter form being produced by +gores; the quarter is lined with heavy felt and stiffened by layers; +the toe weight and securing hook are secured by a piece of leather +stitched to the body; the securing strap is stitched to the toe, and +passes through a roller loop back to the buckle. + +[Illustration: FIG. 25.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 26.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 27.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 28.] + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +HARNESS MOUNTINGS. + + +In describing harness mountings, it is not the intention of the author +to draw comparisons as to the respective merits of any class or style. +The sole aim is to give a correct description of the various kinds, +their peculiarities of manufacture, and such other information as will +enable the reader to judge as to the adaptability of any particular +style for a specific use. + +In order that they may be fully explained, they will be divided into +five classes, as follows: Plated, whether silver, gold, or nickel; pure +metal; covered, whether leather or composition; japanned, and tinned. + +Plated mountings are divided into two classes—close plate, those in +which the fine metal is rolled out in thin sheets and applied as a +covering to the iron or composition forming the body of the article, +and caused to adhere by means of solder and heat; electro plate, those +in which the fine metal is dissolved and formed into a liquid solution, +into which the articles to be coated are suspended, and by the +application of an electric current the fine metal is evenly deposited +upon the surface of the iron or composition. + +The silver used for close plating is rolled out in sheets of various +thicknesses, and designated by numbers, the lightest being No. 1; +following this are three grades, designated as No. 1½ light, fair, and +stout, the former weighing three pennyweights to a foot in length by +6½ inches in width; the second weighs 3½ pennyweights, while the third +weighs 4½ pennyweights. Next to these are three grades, designated +as No. 2 light, fair, and stout. The first weighs 5½, the second 6½, +and the third 7½ pennyweights to the foot. Following these are three +grades, designated as No. 2½ light, fair, and stout. The first weighs +8½, the second 9½, and the third 10½ pennyweights to the foot. The +second is also designated as “Knob;” and the third, “Heavy Knob.” The +latter is seldom used on harness mountings, as it can not be worked to +an advantage except by the hard solder process, which is too expensive +for harness work. “Knob” silver is the heaviest used for the regular +trade. + +It will be seen that there are eight grades of silver below the “Knob,” +which explains in part why there is so great a difference in the prices +of plated goods of any one pattern; for, based upon the government +standard, a foot of No. 1 silver, 6½ inches wide, would be worth 13.6 +cents, while a foot of “Knob” silver would be 64.6; but the actual +difference in the prices of the rolled plate is even greater than this. +Then, too, the cost of labor is much greater for putting on heavy than +light silver. The former is so thin that but little labor is required +to solder it to the article to be plated, while the extra thickness of +the latter necessitates extra skill and time. + +Buyers who are not experts are at a loss how to determine the quality +of the plate. This can be done by examining the surface closely; the +thinner the silver the less dense and perfect the surface. No. 1 will +show minute holes in great number, while the surface of “Knob” will +be perfect to the naked eye. It is not so easy to distinguish between +two succeeding grades, but by a little care a person who handles these +goods can learn to select each distinct grade. Close plate can be +easily distinguished from the electro plate. All that is required is to +breathe upon the polished surface, and if it is close plate the seam +where the metal is joined will be seen at a glance, it showing a bluish +streak; the heavier the plate the more distinct the seam. + +Electro plate is less durable than close plate; but when deposited in +sufficient quantity and hand burnished, it will wear well; the surface, +however, is less perfect than the former, as the thin coating of silver +is deposited evenly over the entire surface, and an irregularity in +the casting will show itself after the work is burnished; in fact, +blemishes are more easily detected after being plated and burnished +than before, as the minute depressions can not be reached by the +burnisher, and they therefore show dead, white spots. + +The peculiar white lustre of silver distinguishes it from other +metals, but there are other tests by which the uninitiated may satisfy +themselves as to the quality. The simplest is to prepare a cold +saturated solution of bichromate of potassa in nitric acid. A little +of this may be applied to the surface (which must be perfectly clean) +by means of a glass rod, and washed off immediately with cold water. +If the article tested is pure silver, a blood-red colored mark will +appear; if the article is German silver, the liquid appears brown, but +the mark shows no shade of red. On other white metals there are various +actions, but in none but the silver does the red mark appear. + +Persons unacquainted with the nature of silver condemn an article as +impure because of its tarnishing. This is erroneous, as pure silver +assumes a dingy reddish brown, and loses its lustre more readily than +some of the composition white metals. + +Gold plating is always done by the electro process, the other processes +for applying it to coarser metal not being adapted to harness +mountings. It is the most showy but frailest plating in use; the +thin deposit is naturally soft, and but little friction is required +to remove it. If hand burnished, the gold is made more dense than +otherwise; but even this is not as durable as other plating. There is +no such an article of manufacture as close plate gold, nor can there +be unless a solder can be produced which will melt under a lower heat +than gold, and as there is no such solder at this time, all claims of +a gold covered article being close plate are fraudulent. + +The introduction of nickel as a covering for mountings has produced +a marked change in some lines of goods, supplanting as it has in a +great measure burnishing on bits, stirrups, spurs, etc., and being +largely used as a plate for all kinds of harness mountings. The nickel +is deposited by the electro process, but, as it is a hard metal, it +wears well. The color is a bluish white, more closely resembling finely +polished steel than any thing else. It does not tarnish easily, and +will not rust. The only objection to it aside from the color is that +it will sometimes peel—that is, the nickel will become detached from +the iron or composition core; but this is due either to some defect in +cleaning the surface to be plated or in the manner of depositing the +nickel. Improvements are being made in the process of depositing the +nickel, and there is every reason to believe that the objectionable +features will be overcome, and with the reduction in price it will take +the place of tinned and other low priced white metal goods. + +The next class are those goods made of some composition metal, such +as brass, oroide, aluminum, and German silver. Brass has long been a +favorite mounting, though in this country it has been deemed better +suited to express and other heavy mountings than for coach or light +carriage harness; but fashion has once more brought it into use on +coach harness, and it is likely, for a time at least, to assume the +position held by gold for some years past. The advantages of brass are +that it can be cast to any form, retains its malleability, is quite +dense, and readily receives a brilliant polish; but its proneness to +tarnish is an objection which tends to overcome its good qualities. +The color is regulated by the proportions of the metals forming the +compound, and skill in the moulder in turning it off just when it has +been raised to the proper heat. + +Oroide, like brass, is a yellow metal, and when first introduced was +recommended as a substitute for gold; when polished it has a golden +color, but it tarnishes too easily to be used without being plated. It, +however, furnishes an excellent base for gilding, and for that reason +is largely used. It can be cast as easily as brass, and is equally +malleable; it can also be used for plating iron articles which are to +be gilded, but if not plated or gilded it possesses but few advantages +over ordinary brass. + +Aluminum, or, as it is also called, alumina bronze, is the finest +yellow metal produced; its color closely resembles that of gold, while +it is susceptible of as high a polish as the latter; it is tough, +though next to gold in lightness, but its high price prevents its being +used for any but the most expensive mountings. + +German silver is used to a considerable extent for mountings which are +to be plated with silver. For this purpose it is the best white metal +known; other kinds have been introduced, but they have not proven +suitable for mountings. The objection to all composition castings is +their lack of rigidity, and they should never be used for check rein +hooks of any kind; these should be of iron, and plated to correspond +with the terrets, etc. + +Composition possesses one great advantage over iron which should be +understood by harness makers and consumers. It does not rust, and +can therefore be used in localities where iron can not, owing to the +proneness of the latter to rust—particularly on the sea coast, where +the sea air acts very injuriously on plated mountings. + +Covered mountings consist of two kinds, those in which the metal is +covered with leather, and, secondly, those having a metal core covered +with a plastic composition. Leather covered is one of the oldest styles +of mounting in use, but it was many years before it reached the state +of perfection so noticeable at the present time. The durability, as +well as the appearance of these mountings, depends upon the character +of the leather used and the manner of putting it on. Calfskin, or very +fine grained kip, are the only kinds of leather suited to covering +mountings, but many of the cheaper grades are covered with sheepskin or +thin split leather. Those conversant with working leather can readily +understand the advantage arising from the use of thin, light stock, +the work of putting on being reduced at least one half thereby. The +inferior character of the work shows itself in a short time in the +seams ripping or the leather cracking. Thick, firm leather requires +more care in putting on and stitching, but it finishes much finer, and +is more durable than the cheaper work. + +The manner of covering is very simple: the leather is first cut to +the required shape; it is then soaked in water until it is soft and +pliable, after which paste is applied, and the leather is worked around +the metal by means of slicking sticks, and the edges joined by means of +pinchers, or by placing the article in dies and pressing them together +and allowing them to remain on until the leather is dry, after which +the seam is stitched by hand or machine, the welt trued off, and the +leather blacked and finished. + +The liability of the seam ripping has caused manufacturers to resort to +different methods of putting on the leather and securing it; one method +is the use of two seams on the edges in place of the one center seam so +long in use; the advantage claimed for this method is the protection +given to one side of the seam by the metal lining, and at the same time +the article produced is more ornamental. + +Another plan is to dispense with the seam entirely on the outside; +this is done by joining the edges of the leather on the inside of +the ring, these being protected by the lining; imitations of the +double and single seams are produced by casting them on the iron and +working the leather down smooth to the outlines of the metal. The +most recent improvement in making leather covered mountings is to draw +the leather over the metal ring, which has previously been channeled, +to allow for the full thickness of the leather, the rim on the edge +forming a perfect protection to the leather; this style is known as +the “Centennial,” an illustration of which will be found on page 263. +Small leather covered harness buckles are more generally used than any +others, the greater portion of these being imported from England, where +they are produced at much lower prices than in America. + +The composition covered mountings are hard rubber and celluloid. The +first was patented in 1866, by Ralph Dunham, of Connecticut, as a +covering for harness buckles and rings; in 1867 Andrew Albright, of +Newark, N. J., obtained a patent for covering harness and carriage +mountings with rubber, these two patents being the first taken +out—though early in the history of hard rubber, experiments were made +in covering harness mountings, but the idea was abandoned; but since +the two patents above mentioned were taken out great improvements have +been made, and rubber mountings are an acknowledged success. + +The manufacture of these mountings, though not directly connected +with the manufacture of harness, is interesting, and a description +of the process will serve to give the reader a general idea of their +peculiarities and merits. Every article is made with a metal core of +about the same weight as that used for leather covered work. This +core, or casting, is first cleaned up and made perfectly true by being +struck up in a die; if any portion is to be plated, this is done, and +the article is then taken to the rubber room to be covered. The rubber +used is of the best Para gum, mixed in the proportion of two parts of +gum to one part of pulverized sulphur; it is furnished in long sheets, +varying from one to four lines French measure in thickness, and is +kept rolled up in enameled cloth. Sheets of the rubber are laid out on +a table and cut to such shapes as are needed for each article to be +covered. The various pieces are then laid out on a piece of enameled +cloth and saturated with benzine, covered up, and allowed to remain +in this condition overnight, by which time the rubber becomes sticky; +it is then wrapped around the metal body, care being taken to exclude +air and to firmly weld the edges; after covering, the plated parts, +if there be any, are covered with tin foil, when they are ready to be +vulcanized; to do this the goods are either placed in moulds, buried +in soapstone, or hung in an open pan. The vulcanator is a large tube +made of boiler iron, and sufficiently strong to sustain a very heavy +pressure of steam. After the goods are in the vulcanator, the door +is closed and packed tight and the steam let on; if the goods are in +pans and are to be cured by “open steam,” they are subjected to a +heat of 20 degrees for one hour; 10 additional degrees are gradually +added each hour, until 65 degrees are reached (where the goods are +in soapstone, the heat is raised to 65 degrees at the start). After +having been subjected to this heat for the proper length of time, the +goods are removed, and all small articles, such as buckles, rings, +etc., are thrown into a tumbling barrel and tumbled with charcoal and +water until the rough edges are removed; they are then placed into a +steam box and heated; each article is then placed into steel dies and +pressed by powerful hydraulic presses; this sets the rubber, forms a +true finish, and sets a row of imitation stitches; the smaller articles +are again tumbled for a short time, when they are ready to be finished. +Large articles have to be trued up by hand, then cleaned on the ash +wheel, from which they are taken to the buff wheels; the first is used +with rotten stone, the second is dry; having passed through these, the +articles have a fine polish and a jet black color, after which they +are lined and plated, and made ready for the market. Up to the present +time these goods have never been made anywhere but in this country. +They have a fine finish and are very durable, and will, without doubt, +eventually become popular wherever harness is used. + +Celluloid mountings are of recent origin, and are made only in this +country. The composition is a chemical compound which closely resembles +amber; it can be colored any desirable shade, and does not fade through +use. These mountings, like those of rubber, have a metal core coated +with the composition. The process of manufacture is interesting. The +castings are first trued up; they are then taken to the stuffer to be +coated; they are then placed into moulds, or “stuffing dies.” These are +made of metal. The recess for the casting is provided with a number +of small iron pins, upon which the castings rest. The arrangement of +the moulds is precisely the same as that for casting metal. After the +castings are placed into position, the moulds are closed up and placed +into a recess at the foot of the stuffing cylinder. The latter is +nearly filled with celluloid, and heated up to 190 degrees. After the +die is secured in its place, a plunger, which is worked by hydraulic +pressure, descends upon the hot gum and forces it into the dies in +sufficient quantities to completely fill the moulds and cover the +metal cores. The die is then removed, and in a few minutes emptied of +its contents, and again made ready for stuffing. After being stuffed, +the goods are removed to a drying room heated by steam, and allowed +to season. They are then taken to the hydraulic forming presses; the +mountings are put into highly polished steel dies, and submitted to a +fifty-ton pressure, which renders the material compact and produces +a finely finished surface, after which they are lined, plated, and +finished up ready for delivery. + +Black is the predominating color, but a very handsome imitation of +russet, as well as a good flesh color, has also been produced. As there +is no difficulty in securing any color, the production of other shades +than those mentioned depends upon the demand. + +Celluloid martingale rings are a new article of manufacture. These +closely resemble ivory in appearance, are much stronger, and are sold +at lower prices than the latter. They are made of solid gum, which, +after being colored, runs out into tubes of the required size. These +are cut up into rings and thoroughly seasoned, after which they are +taken to automatic lathes and turned up. They are then polished, and +packed ready for shipping. + +Tinned mountings, or, as they are known by the trade, “XC plate,” are +among the cheapest lines of goods. The metal castings are thoroughly +cleaned, and then dipped into molten tin. The quality of the deposit +depends entirely upon the skill and care of the workman. + +Japanned mountings are those covered with a coat of black varnish which +is solidified by heat. These are plain, and, if properly made, quite +durable. They are, however, so well known that no extended description +is necessary. + +The various illustrations of mountings in this chapter represent the +popular styles now in the market, some of which are made by the general +trade, while others are patented either as designs or as new articles +of manufacture. The “Grant,” “Bismarck,” and “Arlington” are patented +as designs; the “Double Seam,” as a design and a new article of +manufacture. This was fully described in connection with other leather +covered mountings. The “Imperial” is patented as a design. This is +made of composition metal, either white or yellow, and lined with hard +rubber, the latter being turned up and finished off flush with the +outside, leaving a narrow black edge with a metallic band center. This +pattern is not lined, the wear coming direct upon the rubber, which, +owing to its hardness, will wear longer than metal linings. One pattern +of the ball wire mounting is also patented. The wire of this is covered +with rubber and finished perfectly plain, while the ball and base are +plated. + +The “Centennial” is another patented mounting. This is made of metal +cast with a recess upon the outside of the band, into which leather +is worked while wet; the ends, firmly secured at the post, are an +imitation seam pricked in on both edges. The appearance of this is +exactly the reverse of the “Imperial.” The center is black, and the +lining, edges, and head are of metal. + +The illustrations of post, pad, and bolt hooks and head terrets give a +general idea of these articles, though not representing all the styles. +All the popular patterns of terrets have hooks and fly terrets to +match; and in ordering, the harness maker or dealer can always procure +them in sets or by the package. + +[Illustration: Imperial.] + +[Illustration: Centennial.] + +[Illustration: Grant.] + +[Illustration: Ball Wire.] + +[Illustration: Plain Wire.] + +[Illustration: Bismarck.] + +[Illustration: Arlington.] + +[Illustration: Double Seam.] + +[Illustration: Oval.] + +[Illustration: Band.] + +[Illustration: Band. Arlington.] + +[Illustration: Oval. Ball Wire.] + +[Illustration: Centennial. Grant.] + +[Illustration: Wire Ball. Acorn.] + +[Illustration: Band Fly Hook. Oval Fly Hook.] + +[Illustration: Wire Ball. Plain Wire.] + +[Illustration: Ball Wire, Fly. Oval Post Hook.] + +[Illustration: Band C Hook. Oval C Hook.] + +[Illustration: Oval Fly Bolt Hook. Band Post Hook.] + +[Illustration: Wire. Oval Pad Hook.] + +[Illustration: Band. Oval Wire.] + +[Illustration: Flat Top. Scroll Duck Bill.] + +[Illustration: Oval. Plain Duck Bill.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +BUCKLES. + + +The great variety of harness buckles in the market enables the harness +manufacturer to procure those suited to every pattern of mounting. The +illustrations in this chapter represent patterns suited to general +use. In addition to these, buckles are made to match every style of +mounting. An extended description is not necessary. The “Sensible” is +one of the best in the market, owing to the form of the under side. +It does not bend the strap as much as other patterns; it can be used +with oval, “Grant,” and band mountings. The “Victoria” and “Vermont” +match well with the same patterns of mountings. The band, “Bonner,” +and “Square Philadelphia” are used with flat band patterns, the “West +End” and other wire buckles with wire and oval terrets. Trace and +collar buckles are made in as great variety as the smaller harness, the +patterns being similar, but the center bar is used but little except as +a trace buckle. + +A buckle peculiar to this country—one in which the trace lies perfectly +flat and is easily adjusted—is known as the “wedge tongue.” This was +the invention of Mr. Coles. Improvements were made by various persons, +until at the present time there are several varieties operating much +the same as, and bearing a close resemblance to, the original. The +“Coles,” Fig. 1, represents the original after having been so modified +as to make it practical. The “Coles,” Fig. 2, represents the latest +improvement in the way of a spring, which prevents the wedge getting +out of place when the trace is not drawn up tight. The peculiarity of +this buckle is in the wedge. This is provided with a tongue or spur on +the under side, which sets into a hole in the trace and takes the place +of the ordinary tongue; when the trace is drawn up, the wedge bears +against the cross bar and holds the spur in position, and at the same +time produces a pressure which relieves the strap at the hole of much +of the strain which would otherwise be put upon it. + +Fig. 3 shows the “Kinne.” This, when in position, bears a close +resemblance to the “Cole,” but it operates somewhat differently. The +cross bar is loose and the bearings upon the pier plate press against +it, producing the same result as the wedge. + +Fig. 4 represents the “Kinne” without loops. This is used on single +harness. These buckles are very strong, and are made in all sizes from +1¼ to 2 inches. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + +[Illustration: Sensible. Vermont.] + +[Illustration: Victoria. Metropolitan.] + +[Illustration: Philadelphia. Union.] + +[Illustration: Square Philadelphia. Bonner.] + +[Illustration: Crescent. Band.] + +[Illustration: West End. Crown.] + +[Illustration: Wire. Horseshoe.] + +[Illustration: Square Roller. Barrel Roller.] + +[Illustration: Covered Ring. Wire Bridle. Covered Bridle.] + +[Illustration: Ribbon. Sensible.] + +[Illustration: Light Band. Covered Roller.] + +[Illustration: Band. Covered.] + +[Illustration: Imperial. Wire.] + +[Illustration: Band. Boston.] + +[Illustration: Arlington. City.] + +[Illustration: Band. Philadelphia.] + +[Illustration: Boston. Oval.] + +[Illustration: Square. Loop End.] + +[Illustration: Congress. Manhattan.] + +[Illustration: Perforated Loop. Sensible.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +BITS AND BITTING HARNESS. + + +BRIDLE BITS. + +The ingenuity of bit makers of all countries has been taxed to the +utmost to produce bits suited to all horses, and many are the harsh and +brutal devices introduced; but with the exception of the Mexican or +Texan bit, very few of the harsh kinds are now in use. For this reason +no attention will be paid to any but those suited to the general trade. +The illustrations show a good variety, but they all come under the +general classification of snaffle, ring, bradoon, or lever. + +The snaffle is frequently defined as a bit having a jointed mouth; this +is incorrect, as the cheek piece alone decides the name, the mouth +pieces being designated as stiff, jointed, post, chain, leather, hinge, +etc. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate two styles of snaffle. The first is the +regular pattern; the second, the “Dexter;” both are made up with stiff +as well as jointed mouths. The origin of the name is unknown; but when +a bit maker receives an order for a “snaffle-bit,” he furnishes one +with cheek pieces like that in Fig. 1, the ring and bars of which are +of one piece; if a “Dexter” snaffle is ordered, it is like Fig. 2, the +peculiarity of which is the shape of the mouth piece, it being large +at the cheek and small at the joint. + +A ring bit is one having rings instead of rings and cheek pieces +combined. The portion, however, which is surrounded by the head on the +mouth piece is turned so as to give a straight bearing and provide two +shoulders, which prevents the ring slipping through the hole in the +heads of the mouth piece. The bradoon bit has a ring cheek, but the +wire is of uniform thickness, and the ring is loose in the ends of +the mouth piece. Lever, or gag, bits (as they are generally called) +are made up in a variety of ornamental patterns, with stiff or loose +cheeks. The “Hanoverian,” Fig. 3, is used more than any other pattern. +For coach or coupé harness the “Buxton” is the most popular. This has a +scroll cheek and a loose mouth, which slides up and down on a straight +section of the cheek. + +Trotting snaffles are made in a variety of patterns, and as a rule with +half cheeks. The “Dan Mace” is one of this class; the small loop on +the cheek piece is used to secure a cross strap, thus connecting the +two cheeks in such a manner that they act together when either rein +is pulled. The “Ben Lane,” “Dexter,” and other half cheek bits are +also provided with the loop. The various other patterns shown need no +explanation. + +Bits are made of wrought-iron throughout, wrought mouth and malleable +cheeks, or all malleable. The first are sometimes designated as steel +bits; but this is a mere pretence, as steel is seldom used in their +manufacture, fine iron being preferable. The wrought bit is the most +expensive, but it is the only reliable kind, and no horse possessing +any spirit should be driven with any other. Next to this is the +wrought mouth and malleable cheek; and lastly, the all malleable, a +bit which should never be used. Some are sufficiently strong, but the +unreliability of malleable iron should condemn it for bits of any kind. + +A very convenient manner of numbering has been adopted by some bit +manufacturers, by which a buyer can tell at a glance just what the +article is. If a buyer orders a No. 1336, he would be furnished with +a first quality ring bit with a ⁶/₁₆ inch mouth piece, having two 1½ +inch rings. Should the number be 1356, he would secure the same kind +of bit with three inch rings; for a loose ring bit the first and last +numbers would be the same, with 24 as the pattern number. Snaffles are +designated by 52, and half cheek of the regular pattern by 53, and +“Hanoverians” by 76. A first quality loose ring bit would be designated +by No. 1246, a snaffle by 1526, a half cheek snaffle by 1536, and a +“Hanoverian” by 1766, the first and last numbers being changed to +designate quality and size. When used first, the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, +etc., represent the quality; the final numbers, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 give +the size of the mouth pieces in sixteenths of an inch; the addition of +the fraction ½ designates a jointed mouth. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1. Snaffle.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 3. Hanoverian.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6. Ben Lane.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2. Dexter.] + +[Illustration: Half Check Dexter.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 5. Dan Mace.] + +[Illustration: Ring.] + +[Illustration: Check Bradoon.] + +Bits are finished in a variety of styles, as follows: “Polished,” +those which are not plated, but are burnished up in the best manner; +“nickel,” those plated with nickel; “all over silver-plated,” those in +which the cheeks and ends of the mouth piece are plated; “half silver +plated,” those having only the cheek pieces plated; “outside silver +plated,” those in which the outsides of the cheek pieces are plated. +Plating with other metals is designated in a similar manner. + + +BITTING HARNESS. + +The two illustrations of bitting harness in this chapter represent the +most complicated, though undoubtedly the best for this purpose, which +are free to manufacturers in this country. There are several patented +devices, but a description or illustration would be of no general +value. Fig. 1 represents the plain wooden jockey, the saddle to which +is made of iron padded with felt and covered with collar leather; the +ends of the reins are of elastic web. The manner of attaching, style +of halter, crupper strap, etc., are all well delineated and require +no explanation. Fig. 2 represents an improved jockey of English +manufacture; the arms of this are of gutta percha and whalebone instead +of wood; the various straps are all provided with elastic ends, which, +it is claimed, produces the desired result in a more humane manner than +when the old style, as shown by Fig. 1, is used. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +Another style, bearing a close resemblance to Fig. 1, has steel springs +attached to the back of the arms at the lower ends, to which the reins +are attached; the wooden arms are provided with slots for the reins +to pass through before being secured to the steel springs. The plain +bitting harness, in which the cheeks, etc., are attached to a broad +surcingle, needs no description. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +REPAIRING HARNESS. + + +To repair harness well is quite as much of an art as to make up new +stock, and, owing to the gradual spread of the custom of sending +the harness to the shop instead of leaving the matter to stablemen +when repairs are needed, the proper performance of the work is, in a +business point of view, an absolute necessity. Repairing is something +more than securing a ripped stitch, restoring a buckle, or splicing +a strap; these the merest novice in the business can accomplish; +but to repair properly requires skill, judgment, and experience. +This is particularly the case at the present time, when new methods +and directions are found in every agricultural journal, and not +unfrequently in those devoted to mechanics, and which, from the nature +of the articles recommended, as well as from the crudeness of the +instructions, are calculated to mislead. + +In repairing, two results are to be sought—one is the complete +restoration of strength and form; the other, renovation and softening +of the leather, so that in appearance and pliability it will be as +nearly as possible what it was when first made. To do this, unbuckle +and separate all patent and fancy colored from the plain leather +wherever it can be done without ripping; also from pads, gig saddles, +and such other parts as are lined with cloth or are stuffed; then +clean the straps. These, if gummed, should be scraped with a smooth +edged scraper, and then washed with tepid water and crown soap; if +the latter can not be had, use castile soap in its place (strong soap +should never be used, as the alkalies penetrate the leather and harden +it). Turpentine, benzine, etc., are often recommended for removing the +surface grease and accumulated dirt; but nothing will more effectually +destroy harness leather than these articles: they penetrate almost +instantly, and burn and harden the fibre, and if used to any extent, +the injury can not be corrected. Tepid water, soap, a scraper, and a +little labor will prove equally efficacious in removing all superfluous +substances, without leaving injurious effects. + +After thoroughly cleaning the leather, make all needed repairs, black +up, and, with the exception of polishing, treat the leather the same as +though the harness were new; then with a stiff brush clean out whatever +dirt may be in and around the stitches, loops, buckles, etc., treating +both sides of the strap in the same manner. This brushing is often +omitted, but it is almost as important as the cleaning of the surface +of the leather, as the fine dirt is thus removed, and it does not +interfere in any way with the penetration of the oil or grease into +the pores of the leather or around the stitches. + +The harness now being cleaned and repaired, it is ready for oiling +or greasing. There are two ways of doing this: the first, which is +applicable to leather which has become hard, lost its color, and needs +thorough renovation, is to apply a little vinegar black wherever the +leather appears red; then dampen each strap with a small quantity of +tepid water, applying it with a sponge, and, as soon as the surface +of the leather is dry, give it a coat of pure neat’s-foot oil (the +purer the oil the better); the oil penetrates the leather, the water +having opened the pores, and it is quickly absorbed. Some authorities +recommend castor oil in place of the neat’s-foot, but the latter +is undoubtedly the best, as it restores to the leather some of its +natural properties, and therefore better assimilates with the fibre. +Castor oil, however, is an excellent article, and is only inferior +to neat’s-foot or pure cod. It penetrates rapidly, softens well, and +at the same time retains a firm hold; it will also last as long as +neat’s-foot oil, and is free from gum, but, owing to its heavy body, +it fills up the pores and thus prevents the subsequent absorption of +tallow. The animal oil, on the other hand, opens the pores, softens the +fibre, and fits it to take up a much greater quantity of tallow, which +is, after all, the only real protection against the action of water. +The tallow should be warmed sufficiently to allow of its being spread +on with a brush, but it must not be hot. Apply it as soon as the oil +has dried in, and brush well in order to assist it to enter the pores. +Lay all the straps out straight, and, after coating them with tallow, +allow them to remain in that condition for several hours; then rub +them with a woolen cloth until all surplus grease is removed from the +surface, after which varnish black may be applied if desired; but the +latter is not absolutely necessary, excepting when the leather is much +worn and the color injured. + +The second manner of applying grease is to slightly dampen the leather +after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and as soon as the surface +moisture is removed, apply a coat of warm tallow, and allow the straps +to remain coated with it until the moisture has died out, afterward +cleaning the tallow off as in the first case. This answers very well +for harness when the leather has not become hard but looks dry on the +surface. In the absence of grease, leather absorbs water very rapidly, +and unless the pores be well filled with the former, the latter will +soon obtain the mastery and convert the leather from a soft, pliant, +tough material to a hard, bony, and brittle one. + +Tallow of itself will resist the action of water much longer than +neat’s-foot oil, but it does not impart the same softness to the fibre +as does the latter, while the oil, though it softens the leather, fails +to form much of a barrier against the entrance of water. Both articles +are therefore necessary in order to secure pliability and durability. +Other greases may be used, but in none are the original qualities of +the leather contained to the same extent as in those recommended. + +When the leather presents a rusty appearance, but is not red, it should +be blacked with hatters’ black, or a more simple black made of 2 ounces +of the extract of logwood and ½ ounce of bichromate of potash pounded +fine and dissolved in 4 quarts of boiling rain or river water. This can +be bottled and kept on hand. It should be applied with a brush. + +Harness when in use becomes soiled either by the action of the +atmosphere on the grease—the latter being drawn to the surface, where +it becomes impregnated with dust, and forms a dirty coating—or by the +impurities in the oil used in currying the leather. In the latter case, +in addition to the dirty grease, spots of gum of various sizes form on +the surface. These can only be removed by scraping, or by the use of an +ammoniated soap, made of oleic acid heated to a temperature of 100°, +into which ammonia (of 0.96 specific gravity) is stirred until the +smell of the latter ceases to disappear by action of the acid. + +Patent leather can only be restored to its original polish by the use +of varnish, but it may be greatly improved by applying castor oil, +and, after it has been upon the leather an hour or more, removing the +surplus grease with a woolen cloth, and rubbing with a dry silk or +woolen rag until the polish is brought out. In every case remove all +the mountings possible without ripping the straps, and clean them +before replacing. + +It requires some labor to thus clean, repair, and oil a harness, but +these directions, if well followed, will secure a first-class job, and +if the leather has not become bony and harsh from constant exposure, it +will be to all appearances as good as new. + +For repairing or new work there is no blacking in the market that +answers the purpose better than that of Frank Miller & Co. It possesses +the necessary elements for softening and giving a fine finish to the +leather, and increasing its durability. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +CARE OF HARNESS IN FACTORY AND STABLE. + + +The appearance and durability of harness to a great extent depends +upon the treatment received after leaving the hands of the workman; +yet a large percentage of manufacturers, as well as consumers, are +very careless and negligent in protecting their goods from injury by +the elements. Consumers, as a rule, are entirely unacquainted with +the peculiarities of the stock used, and they can not, therefore, +be expected to know how to guard it against various destructive +influences, but the harness maker can not plead ignorance. Leather as +received from the tanner does not possess the requisite qualifications +for harness. These the currier supplies by the addition of oil and +grease, together with the labor needed in preparing it, without which +it would lack the suppleness and durability so necessary in this kind +of stock. The preservation of the materials added by the currier, +therefore, becomes an absolute necessity in order to prevent premature +decay. + +Moisture is the great destroyer; it absorbs the grease, hardens the +fibre, and renders the leather weak and brittle; it also causes the +metal in the mountings to rust, weakening them, and adds another enemy +to the leather. Grease only will resist the effects of moisture, and +every effort should be made to keep the leather well supplied with this +needed protector. + +Manufacturers often overlook the importance of caring for the harness +in stock, and also of instructing their customers how to preserve +it when in use. With some the idea is maintained, that ignorance on +the part of the consumer, as regards the care of harness, accrues to +the benefit of the manufacturer. This is a serious mistake. The most +successful man is he who produces the most durable article, and it +should be part of a manufacturer’s duty to instruct the buyer how to +treat the article purchased. But all manufacturers do not understand +this secret of their business, and a portion of this chapter therefore +will be devoted to the care of stock in the warerooms. + +A certain amount of made up stock must be displayed, but there is no +necessity for exposing more than one harness of a kind. Three months’ +exposure in a wareroom will injure a harness as much as three months +of constant use, providing the user knows how to take care of it. In +all instances leather strapping, if exposed at all, should be in glass +cases impervious to dust and air; but no showcase can be made tight +enough to fully exclude these elements. + +During a great part of the year the air at night is laden with +moisture, and, not unfrequently, during the spring and fall months the +atmosphere is humid and heavy; the moist air permeates every thing, +and by its action upon the leather and mountings rapidly absorbs the +life of the former and rusts or tarnishes the latter. The white mould +which is often observed upon the leather is caused by the grease being +drawn to the surface by moisture. After the surface is covered with +this mould, the absorption of the grease continues in all kinds of +weather until the cause is removed. The manufacturer therefore should +remove it as quickly as possible by brushing it, and afterwards rubbing +with a dry cloth, and finally with a greasy rag or “shammy;” then +restore the polish with an old silk handkerchief. If the mountings are +tarnished, clean them with a “shammy;” if this can not be done, remove +them clean with a little rotten stone. Gilt mountings should not be +exposed. Sample sets are convenient; but when these can not be had, the +gilt should be protected by wrapping it in tissue paper. + +In hanging up the various parts of the harness, use forms, instead of +pegs or hooks, except for traces or reins, which should always be hung +out straight. Harness made up for stock should not be “gummed” and +hung in cases, but, after being finished by the workman, all the plain +leather should be covered with a thin coat of “daub” made of one part +of neat’s-foot oil and two parts of tallow—the latter being thoroughly +melted, after which the oil is poured in and the whole thoroughly +stirred until cold;—this will feed the leather and prevent injury. The +patent and fancy leather should be wrapped on soft paper, and every +piece, whether of patent or plain leather, laid out straight and smooth +in shallow drawers and covered with thick paper. Russet strapping of +all kinds should be kept in dark cases or drawers, as the sunlight is +sure to affect the color, the most exposed parts showing the greatest +change. + +Harness makers who have made the care of harness a study have no +difficulty in filling orders at a short notice. Their course is to make +up traces, reins, turnbacks, docks, back-bands, and other straight +strapping, and lay them away in grease as before directed. When a +harness is ordered, all that is required is to make the other parts, +finish up the necessary straight straps, attach the mountings, and +put them together. In this way they are enabled to keep their workmen +employed at all times, and obviate the necessity of hiring extra hands +in the busy season. If the manufacturer delivers the harness to his +customer in good order, he does all he is legally bound to do; but his +moral obligation extends much farther—he should instruct the buyer how +to preserve it. The following hints may serve to assist him in this +direction: + +The harness room should always be as far from the horses as the size +of the building will allow, as the gases arising from the stable are +very injurious to the leather and mountings; it should be provided with +forms for the bridles, pads, saddles, breechings, etc., and hooks for +reins, hames, and traces. If a separate room can not be had for this +purpose, closets should be provided. + +Harness are often quite wet when taken from the horse. When this is +caused by rain, hang them up in some place where they can dry, and +before putting them in the storeroom rub them well with a “shammy,” +or wash-leather, then apply a little crown soap and rub with the +hands until the polish is restored; clean off the under side of the +straps as carefully as the outside. If wet by sweat, dry as quickly +as possible after taking them from the horse, as by the saline nature +of the perspiration the grease is rapidly absorbed and the leather +hardened; if the pads are wet, dry them thoroughly before putting them +in the storeroom. For oiling, during the first year, at least, crown +soap, applied as directed above, is all that is requisite for coach +or carriage harness, but for team and other heavy harness a stronger +grease is required. Cleaning and oiling should be done as often as once +a month on harness which is in daily use. If the leather is soft, wash +it with water applied with a “shammy,” then wring the latter nearly +dry, and rub the leather thoroughly, after which apply a good harness +oil. When each strap has been treated in this way, commence with the +one first washed, and remove all surplus grease with a rag, then rub +with an old piece of silk until the polish is restored. If the leather +is hard and dry, it will be necessary to wash the straps well and wet +them enough to open the pores; lay the straps out straight, and, when +surface dry apply a coat of neat’s-foot oil. When this has penetrated +the leather, apply warm tallow with a brush, and allow the straps to +remain coated with the tallow until the moisture has dried out of the +leather, then with a rag remove all the surplus tallow, and clean the +stitching with a stiff brush; then apply a coat of harness black. + +Cleaning mountings requires care, as they do not need to be scoured. +Gold should never be rubbed with any thing harsher than the nap side of +canton flannel; electro silver plate should also be cleaned carefully, +as the plate is soft and the thin coating can be easily removed. Close +plate silver will bear more scouring, but it is seldom necessary to +do more than to rub it with a “shammy” darkened with tripoli and +lampblack. If they are very much tarnished, they should be removed from +the harness and washed in water and rubbed with tripoli. Brass is the +most difficult metal to keep clean, but when rubbed each day the labor +is materially decreased. In the chapter of recipes there are several +directions for cleaning and polishing brass, any of which can be used +to good advantage. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +LEATHER BLACKING—STAINS—VARNISHES AND POLISHES. + + +VINEGAR BLACK. + +For giving color to the grain of leather there is no blacking that will +at all compare with the well known vinegar black. This may be made in +various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure +shavings from an iron turner and cover them with pure cider vinegar; +heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a +cool place for two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for +a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a +long time, and, while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain +the hands. + +Another method is to cover iron scraps with sour beer, and allow them +to stand for a month or more; then strain off the beer and bottle as +before. A third method is to boil sulphate of iron in vinegar; mix some +brewers’ yeast with beer and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours, +then skim off the yeast and add the vinegar. + + +LOGWOOD BLACK. + +Boil 1 pound of ground logwood, ½ pound of nut galls, and 1 ounce of +verdigris in 1 gallon of water for two hours, then remove from the +fire and allow it to stand until it is cold; strain off the liquor, and +it will be ready for use. + +If to 1 pint of this mixture be added ¼ pound of white wax, ½ pound of +brown sugar, and ½ pound of bone black rubbed smooth in turpentine, and +the whole heated until thoroughly amalgamated, an excellent wax for +finishing edges will be produced. + +Another logwood black is made by boiling a quantity of logwood bark in +double its bulk of rain water for two or three hours, then straining +off and adding ¼ of a pound of potash to 2 gallons of the liquor. This +makes a good grain as well as edge black. + + +HATTERS’ BLACK. + +This black is unequaled for finishing. It is made by dissolving 1 pound +of extract of logwood, ½ ounce of bichromate of potash, and 1 ounce of +copperas in 1 gallon of water. + +Another formula, differing from the first in the quantities, is to +dissolve 1 pound of extract of logwood, 2 ounces of copperas, and 1½ +ounces of bichromate of potash in 1½ gallons of water. + + +BALL BLACK. + +Melt together 8 ounces of beef suet, 2 ounces of neat’s-foot oil, 2 +ounces of white wax, and 2 ounces of pulverized gum arabic; add 1 gill +of turpentine, and a sufficient quantity of bone black to give the +whole a good color; stir until thoroughly mixed, remove from the fire, +continue to stir until cold, then roll into balls. To apply, warm the +ball, rub it on the leather, and polish with a woolen cloth. + +English ball blacking for harness is composed of 1 ounce of lard, 1 +ounce of beeswax, 8 ounces of ivory black, 8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces +of linseed oil, and 2 or 3 ounces of water. + +Another kind is made of 2 ounces of hog’s lard, 8 ounces of best +neat’s-foot oil, 2 ounces of beeswax, 10 ounces of ivory black, and +8 ounces of water. Heat the whole to a boil, remove from the fire, +stir until sufficiently cool, and form into balls about two inches in +diameter. + +A third description is made of 2 ounces each of ivory black, copperas, +and neat’s-foot oil, 4 ounces of brown sugar, 4 ounces of soft water, +and 1 ounce of gum tragacanth; boil until the water has evaporated, +stir until cold, then roll into balls or mould into cakes. + +A fourth is made of ½ pound of beeswax, 4 ounces of ivory black, 2 +ounces of Prussian blue, 2 ounces of spirits of turpentine, and 1 ounce +of copal varnish; melt the wax, stir in the other ingredients, and, +when cool, roll into balls. + +Still another famous harness and saddlery blacking is made of ¼ of an +ounce of isinglass, ¼ of an ounce of indigo, 4 ounces of logwood, 2 +ounces of softsoap, 4 ounces of glue, and 1 pint of vinegar; the whole +is warmed, mixed, strained, allowed to cool, and is then ready for use. + + +LIQUID BLACK. + +Mix a quantity of bone black with equal parts of neat’s-foot oil and +brown sugar, in proportions to produce a thick paste; thin with vinegar +and sulphuric acid in proportions of three parts of the former to one +of the latter. + +A second liquid black is made by mixing 3 ounces of ivory black with +1 tablespoonful of lemon acid, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and a small +quantity of vinegar, afterward adding 1 ounce each of sulphuric and +muriatic acid; mix the whole together, and add a sufficient quantity of +vinegar to make 1 pint in all. + + +LIEBIG’S BLACK. + +Mix bone black in half its weight of molasses and one eighth its weight +of olive oil, to which add half its weight of hydrochloric acid and one +fourth its weight of strong sulphuric acid, with a sufficient quantity +of water to produce a thin paste. + + +PATENT HARNESS BLACK. + +Heat together, over a slow fire, 2 ounces of white wax and 3 ounces of +turpentine; when the wax is dissolved add 1 ounce of ivory black and 1 +dram of indigo, thoroughly pulverized and mixed; stir the mixture until +cold. Apply with a cloth, and polish with a shoe brush. + + +WATERPROOF PASTE BLACKING. + +Melt together 4 ounces of black resin and 6 ounces of beeswax over a +slow fire; when thoroughly dissolved, add 1 ounce of lampblack and ¼ +pound of finely powdered Prussian blue; stir the mixture well, and add +sufficient turpentine to make a thin paste. Apply with a cloth, and +polish with a brush. + + +CROWN SOAP BLACK. + +Dissolve, over a slow fire, 1 pound of beeswax, 1 pound of crown soap, +3 ounces of indigo, 4 ounces of ivory black, and ½ pint of oil of +turpentine; as soon as dissolved remove from the fire, and stir until +cold. + + +FINISHING BLACK. + +Mix together ½ ounce each of gelatin and indigo, 8 ounces of extract of +logwood, 2 ounces of crown soap, 8 ounces of softened glue, and 1 quart +of vinegar; heat the whole over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly +mixed. Apply with a soft brush, and polish with a woolen cloth. + + +CORDOVA WAX. + +Mix together 1½ pints of red acid (chromic), 1 pint of beer, 1 gill of +thick glue, 2 ounces of ivory black, and 1 dram of indigo; boil for +half an hour, and apply with a sponge. + + +GERMAN BLACKING. + +Soften 2 pounds of good glue, and melt it in an ordinary glue kettle; +then dissolve 2 pounds of castile soap in warm water and pour it into +the glue; stir until well mixed, and add ½ pound of yellow wax cut +into small pieces; stir well until the wax is melted, then add ½ pint +of neat’s-foot oil and enough lampblack to give the desired color. When +thoroughly mixed, it is ready for use. + + +ANILIN BLACK. + +Mix 1 dram of fine anilin black with 60 drops of concentrated +hydrochloric acid and 1½ ounces of alcohol. This produces a deep blue +liquid, which, when diluted with 1½ ounces of shellac dissolved in +alcohol, will produce a beautiful black. + + +BLACKING FOR RESTORING HARNESS. + +Mix 1 ounce of indigo, 1 pound of extract of logwood, 1 ounce of +softened glue, and 8 ounces of crown soap (common softsoap can be used +if the other kind can not be had) in 2 quarts of vinegar; place the +mass over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Apply with a +soft brush, and use a harder one for polishing. + + +BLACKING FOR PATENT OR ENAMELED LEATHER. + +Mix together ½ pound each of ivory black, purified lampblack, and +pulverized indigo, 3 ounces of dissolved gum arabic, 4 ounces of brown +sugar, and ¼ ounce of glue dissolved in 1 pint of water; heat the whole +to a boil over a slow fire, then remove and stir until cool, and roll +into balls. + + +BLACKING FOR RESTORING LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS. + +Melt 3 parts of white wax, then add 1 part gum copal, dissolved in +linseed oil, and 1 part of ivory black; allow the mass to boil for five +minutes, remove it from the fire and stir until cool, then roll it up +into balls. + + +BLACKING FOR THE FLESH SIDE. + +Mix together 1 pound of prime lampblack and 12 pounds of pure +neat’s-foot oil; melt 6 pounds of good tallow, and add it while hot to +the lampblack and oil. Mix it well, and when cold it will be fit for +use. + + +ANOTHER. + +To 1½ pounds of lampblack add 1 gallon of pure neat’s-foot oil and 1 +quart of vinegar black; allow it to stand 24 hours, and it will be +ready for use. + + +STAINS. + +The use of russet and brown leather for reins, etc., necessitates the +employment of stains of various shades in the workshop, in order that +the reins or other straps may be of a uniform color after being worked. +In most cases rein leather is stained by the currier, but when worked, +the freshly cut edges, etc., need to be stained to correspond with +the grain. The stains used are generally made of Spanish saffron and +anotta, or of saffron alone, made up in various ways, the most common +and reliable being the following: + +Boil a given amount of saffron in water until the color is extracted; +cut a quantity of anotta in urine and mix the two together, the +proportions of each determining the shade; the more anotta used the +darker is the color. + +Another manner of preparing this stain is to boil ½ ounce of Spanish +saffron and ¼ ounce of anotta in water until the dye is extracted, to +which must be added some alcohol to set the color. + +To make a stain of saffron alone, boil a quantity in water until the +dye is extracted; strain off, and, when cold, add alcohol in order +to set the color. The shade may be changed by adding oxalic acid in +varying quantities according to the color required. The proportions +can not be given with any degree of accuracy, as the color is a matter +of taste, and can be regulated by using greater or less proportions of +each article. + +Another saffron stain is made by boiling saffron in a small quantity of +water until the color is extracted, and reducing with urine. + +In using any of these stains, apply them with a cloth, and, when nearly +dry, rub with a woolen rag slightly waxed. + +A yellow stain is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water; the +shade may be darkened by the addition of a small quantity of powdered +Brazilwood boiled with the berries. + +Another yellowish red stain is made of Brazilwood and yellow berries +in proportion to suit, boiling them in water until the coloring matter +is extracted. This can be applied to sides that have not been stained, +when intended for flat reins, halters, etc., in the following manner: + +Lay the leather upon a table, and rub the flesh side with a warm +stretching iron; turn it over and moisten the grain side with water, +and rub with a copper stretching iron until the leather is nearly dry; +then apply the coloring matter to the grain, and rub with a copper +slicker. When the leather is perfectly dry, rub the grain with a glass +slicker. An edge stain is made by adding a small quantity of alum to +the above mentioned ingredients. + +A brown stain is made by boiling equal parts of pine and alder barks +in six times their bulk of water until all the coloring matter is +extracted, and when cold adding a small quantity of alcohol. Saffron +boiled for twelve or fifteen hours gives a good brown stain, to which +alcohol must be added to make it set. + +Picric acid and water, in proportions of 1 to 10, heated to a blood +heat, makes a good yellow stain. Wold boiled in water also makes a +yellow stain. + +An orange yellow is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water. +This stain may be converted into a rich brown by washing the leather +to which it has been applied, before the stain is fairly dry, with an +alkali. + +A red stain is produced by boiling Brazilwood in lye. If mixed with +wold, it produces a brownish yellow, well adapted for use on halters +and bridles. + +An edge stain for russet leather is made by cutting 4 ounces of anotta +in 2 quarts of urine, allowing it to stand for twenty-four hours, then +adding 3 quarts of water and boiling until reduced to one half the +original quantity. + +All stains appear to better advantage and are rendered more durable by +being covered with a little shellac varnish, which should be applied +after the reins are all dry, and then finished up as previously +directed. The shellac should be applied with a sponge. + +A bright orange stain is made by mixing yellow anilin with alum water. + +One ounce of oxalic acid, 1 ounce of spirits of salts, 1 scruple of +bruised cochineal, and 1 pint of boiling water makes a good brown stain. + +Another red stain is made by dissolving 1 ounce of cochineal in ½ pint +of hot water, and adding 1 gill of spirits of hartshorn. + +A bright crimson stain is alum or tin salts and a decoction of +cochineal. + + +VARNISHES. + + +SHELLAC VARNISH. + +Dissolve 6 parts of shellac in alcohol using no more of the latter than +is absolutely necessary to dissolve the gum, and mix it with 3 parts of +Venetian turpentine, heating the whole until the mixture is complete; +when cool, add ½ part of fine bone black and ½ part of oil of lavender +(all the parts by weight). Mix the mass in a druggist’s mortar, and +rub smooth; then add turpentine enough to reduce it to the proper +consistency. + + +ELASTIC VARNISH. + +Dissolve ½ pound of gum caoutchouc in ether, and when thoroughly cut, +add ½ pound each of linseed oil and spirits of turpentine; boil over a +slow fire until the mixture becomes clear, strain it, and when cold it +is ready for use. To harden it and make it dry quicker, use one half +the quantity of gum caoutchouc, and substitute the best gum copal for +the remainder. + + +GERMAN LEATHER VARNISH. + +Pulverize a quantity of the best copal gum, and add enough turpentine +to moisten it; place it in a glazed vessel, and allow it to stand over +a moderate fire until the gum is thoroughly dissolved, which will +require about ten hours. Next take double the quantity of linseed oil +that there is of the gum and turpentine combined, and heat it; when +nearly to a boil, pour in the dissolved gum, and allow it to remain +over the fire until it has reached as high a degree of temperature +as it will bear with safety, stirring it all the while; then remove +from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, thin with spirits of +turpentine until the proper consistency is reached, strain through +a fine cloth, bottle it, and set it in the sun to ripen. This is an +excellent varnish for horse collars. If used upon those that have lost +their color, a little bone black should be added. + + +LACK VARNISH BALLS. + +Melt together 2 ounces of white wax and 6 ounces of beef tallow; add +½ pint of turpentine, 8 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of Prussian +blue ground in linseed oil, and allow the mass to boil for about five +minutes; then remove it from the fire and add 4 ounces of shellac +varnish, stir the mass until cool, and roll into balls. + + +BLACK VARNISH. + +Pulverize and mix together 1½ parts of mastic, 2½ parts of shellac, 2½ +parts of dragon’s blood, and 2 parts of the best bone black; heat 1½ +parts of turpentine and 10 parts of alcohol, pour them over the gums, +place the whole over a moderate fire, and boil until the latter are +thoroughly dissolved. + + +WATERPROOF VARNISH. + +Pulverize 1 pound of shellac, and put it into a bottle with a +sufficient quantity of alcohol to cover the gum; cork the bottle +tightly, and keep it in a warm place until the gum is dissolved. To +a quart of the liquid add 1 ounce of ivory black and ½ ounce of gum +camphor dissolved in alcohol. Apply with a varnish brush. If too thick +to work well, thin with alcohol. + + +BLACK VARNISH FOR JAPANNED WORK. + +Dissolve 2 pounds of asphaltum in 1 pint of boiled linseed oil; heat +in an iron pot until thoroughly fused, then remove from the fire, and, +when cooled off a little, add 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine, and +stir until cold. Apply with a brush. This makes an excellent japan for +retouching japanned mountings, seats, etc., that have been injured by +the japan scaling off. + + +CHEAP SHELLAC VARNISH. + +Dissolve asphaltum in turpentine, using no more of the latter than is +absolutely necessary; add a small quantity of bone black and enough +shellac varnish to reduce it so that it can be applied with a brush. +Spread it very thinly. + + +ELASTIC VARNISH. + +Equal parts of gum caoutchouc and copal, the former dissolved in ether, +heated in a vessel until thoroughly dissolved, with enough linseed +oil added while hot to reduce it to the proper consistency, makes an +elastic varnish well suited for finishing collars. + + +POLISHES. + + +FRENCH POLISH. + +Beat 5 pounds of stearin out into thin sheets with a wooden mallet, +and mix with 7 pounds of oil of turpentine, after which subject the +mass to a water bath, and heat up; when hot, add ½ ounce of ivory or +bone black, stirring well to prevent crystallization. To cool it off, +it should be emptied into another vessel and stirred until cold. To +use, warm it until it is reduced to a liquid state, and apply in small +quantities with a cloth; afterward rub it well with a piece of silk or +linen cloth to bring up the polish. + + +POLISH FOR PATENT LEATHER. + +Mix together the whites of two eggs, 1 teaspoonful of spirits of wine, +1 ounce of sugar, and as much finely pulverized ivory black as may be +required to produce the necessary shade of black. Apply with a sponge, +and polish with a piece of silk. + + +WAX POLISH. + +Melt together 1 pound of white wax, 1 pound of crown soap, 5 ounces of +ivory black, 1 ounce of indigo, and ½ pint of nut oil; dissolve over a +slow fire, stir until cool, and turn into small moulds. + + +LIQUID POLISH. + +Melt 2 pounds of wax, and add ¼ pound of washed and well dried litharge +by screening it through a fine sieve; then add 6 ounces of ivory black, +and stir until cool, but not cold; add enough turpentine to reduce it +to a thin paste, after which add a little birch or other essential oil +to prevent it from souring. + + +GERMAN LEATHER POLISH. + +Soften 1 part of white glue in water, add 3 parts of crown soap, and +heat the whole over a slow fire until the glue is thoroughly dissolved; +moisten 3 parts of bone black with vinegar, and mix it with 1 part of +wheat starch beat smooth in cold water; mix the whole, and allow it to +stand over a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it all the time, then +turn it into another kettle and stir until it is cold. To use, dissolve +a small quantity in sour beer or vinegar, and apply with a brush, +spreading it as thinly as possible. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR THE WORKSHOP AND HARNESS ROOM. + + +TO CLEAN MOULDY LEATHERS. + +Remove the surface mould with a dry cloth, and with another cloth apply +pyroligneous acid. Leather that has been badly moulded can be restored +in this way. + + +TO PROTECT HARNESS FROM RATS. + +Apply a plentiful coat of castor oil. If the harness is to be used, +add tallow in the proportions of about one third of the latter to two +thirds oil. + + +WATERPROOF OIL. + +Take of lard oil 100 parts, paraffin 50 parts, beeswax 5 parts; heat +the oil over a slow fire, and when hot add the paraffin and wax; allow +the whole to remain over the fire until the latter articles are melted, +and add a few drops of oil of sassafras or other essential oil to +preserve it. + + +CROWN SOAP. + +This soap, so much used by stablemen for cleaning harness, is made of +whale or cod oil, lye of potassa, and a small quantity of tallow. The +oil gives to the soap a dark brown color, the tallow forming white +granulations. This is simply the Scotch softsoap; it can be produced at +a price far below that asked for the imported article. + + +BELGIUM BURNISHING POWDER. + +Mix together ½ pound of fine chalk, 3 ounces of pipe clay, 2 ounces of +dry white lead, ¾ of an ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and ¾ of an +ounce of rouge. + + +POWDER FOR CLEANING SILVER. + +Mix together 1 ounce of fine chalk, 2 ounces of cream of tartar, 1 +ounce of rotten stone, 1 ounce of red lead, and ½ ounce of alum, and +pulverize thoroughly in a mortar. Wet the mixture and rub it on the +silver, and, when dry, rub off with a dry flannel, or clean with a +small brush. + + +POWDER FOR CLEANING BRASS MOUNTINGS. + +Make a paste of equal parts of sulphur and chalk, with sufficient +vinegar to reduce it to the proper consistency. Apply it to the metal +while moist, allow it to dry on, and rub with chamois skin. For +ornaments or engraved work, clean with a brush. + +Another process, and one that gives to the brass a very brilliant +color, is to make a wash of alum boiled in strong lye, in the +proportion of 1 ounce of alum to 1 pint of the latter. Wash the brass +with this mixture, and afterward rub with shammy and tripoli. + +A weak solution of ammonia in water makes an excellent wash for +cleaning tarnished silver plate. Apply it with a rag, dry with a piece +of shammy, and afterward rub with a piece of shammy and a very small +quantity of jewelers’ rouge. + + +PREPARED CHALK. + +Pulverize chalk thoroughly, and mix with distilled water in the +proportion of 2 pounds to the gallon; stir well, and then allow it to +stand about two minutes, during which time the gritty matter will have +settled to the bottom; then pour the chalky water into another vessel, +being careful not to disturb the sediment, and allow the fine chalk to +settle to the bottom; pour off the water, and place the chalk in a warm +oven to dry. This is an excellent powder for restoring silver, and it +is also useful as a base for other polishing powders. + +Spanish whiting treated in the same manner, with a small quantity of +jewelers’ rouge added, makes a powder that is a little sharper than the +prepared chalk, and which is well adapted to cleaning polished steel +articles. + +A third powder, and one that is still sharper than either of the above, +is made of rotten stone treated in the same manner as the chalk. The +addition of bone black to any of these powders will prevent their +discoloring the leather. + + +TO PREVENT STEEL BITS FROM RUSTING. + +Polished steel bits, chains, etc., whether in packages or in showcases, +may be preserved from rust by dusting them over with quicklime. +Those in use should be placed in a box nearly filled with thoroughly +pulverized slaked lime immediately after being removed from the horse. +The lime absorbs the moisture, and thus prevents rust. Before using, +rub well with a woolen cloth. Polished steel, when covered with red +rust, may be cleaned as follows: Cover the article with oil, and rub it +with a woolen cloth to remove the lighter portion of the rust, after +which apply another coat of oil, and allow it to remain undisturbed for +two or three hours, then clean off with whiting and a woolen cloth. If +the rust has been upon the steel sufficiently long to have eaten into +the metal, the surface can be restored only by the use of the emery +belt or wheel. + + +TO CLEAN RUBBER COVERED MOUNTINGS. + +Rub the covered as well as the metallic parts with a shammy and a +little tripoli, and finish with a clean woolen cloth. + + +TO CLEAN RUSSET LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS. + +Remove all stains and dirt by rubbing the leather with a cloth and a +little oxalic acid, and restore the color and finish by the use of +salts of lemon, applied with a woolen cloth. Rub the leather until a +good polish is produced. + + +VARNISH FOR COLLARS. + +Digest shellac 12 parts, white turpentine 5 parts, gum sandarac 2 +parts, lampblack 1 part, spirits of turpentine and alcohol each 40 +parts. + + +TO CLEAN CELLULOID COVERED MOUNTINGS. + +Rub the covered parts with a woolen cloth and a little tripoli, and +polish with a clean woolen rag. + + +POLISHING LIQUID FOR OROIDE OR BRASS. + +Place 2 ounces of sulphuric acid in an earthen vessel, and add 1 quart +of cold soft water; after the heat that is generated has passed off, +add 1 ounce each of tripoli and jewelers’ rouge. When well mixed, put +in a bottle for use. + + +TO CLEAN GILT MOUNTINGS. + +Gilt mountings unless carefully cleaned soon lose their lustre. They +should not be rubbed; if slightly tarnished, wipe them off with a piece +of canton flannel, or, what is better, remove them from the harness and +wash in a solution of ½ ounce of borax in 1 pound of water, and dry +them with a soft linen rag. Their lustre may be improved by heating +them a little and rubbing with a piece of canton flannel or a soft +polishing brush. + + +TO CLEAN RIDING SADDLES. + +If much soiled, wash the leather with a weak solution of oxalic acid +and water, and, when dry, with the watery portion of beef blood. The +latter can be preserved by adding a little carbolic acid, and keeping +it in a bottle tightly corked. + + +TO CLEAN STEEL BITS. + +Steel bits that are tarnished, but not rusty, can be cleaned with +rotten stone, common hard soap, and a woolen cloth. + + +TO FINISH THE EDGES OF RUSSET REINS. + +Use salts of tartar and water. If discolored, first remove the stain +with a weak solution of oxalic acid. + + +TO CLEAN BROWN RIDING SADDLES. + +Saddles may be cleaned to look as well as new by the use of tepid water +and crown soap; if the latter can not be had, use pure castile soap. + + +TO STAIN REIN LEATHER. + +A rich permanent brown can be imparted to rein leather by treating +the hides, after they are tanned, to a bath in a liquor made from +equal parts of pine and alder bark. The hides are spread in a vat, +with liquor enough to cover them, where they are allowed to remain +one week; they are then removed, and fresh liquor is applied; by +repeating this treatment three or four times, a very rich brown can be +produced. Orange brown is produced by scraping the flesh side after +the hides have been removed from the vats for the last time, and +sprinkling them on the scraped side with pulverized alum. As soon as +each one is sprinkled with the alum, it is laid in another vat, one +upon the other, and allowed to remain twenty-four hours; they are then +moistened with the alum liquor in the bottom of the vat, and laid upon +the beam and well worked, after which they are rubbed with salt and +alum, and rolled up and allowed to remain undisturbed for twenty-four +hours; this salting is repeated three times, after which the hides are +stretched lengthwise and dried; they are then boarded and worked soft, +and treated to a coat of hog’s lard and train oil on the flesh side; +in about two days they are again boarded, and worked off with a glass +slicker. This leather has a fine grain, and retains its softness for a +long time. + + +SMEARY GREASE FOR RUSSET LEATHER. + +Mix together 1 part of palm oil and 3 parts of common soap, and heat +up to 100°; then add 4 parts of oleic acid and 1¾ parts of tanning +solution containing at least ¹/₁₆ part tannic acid (all parts by +weight), and stir until cold. This is recommended as a valuable grease +for russet leather, and as a preventive of gumming. + + +TO SEPARATE SIDES OF PATENT LEATHER. + +Patent and enameled leather will, if the glazed sides are placed +together in warm weather, become stuck together, and, unless carefully +separated, the leather will be spoiled. The simplest and best way to +separate sides is to place them in a drying or other hot room; when +hot, they can be taken apart without injury to the glazed or enameled +surface. If a drying room is not accessible, lay the sides on a tin +roof on a hot day, and they will soon become heated sufficiently to +allow their being separated without injury. Any attempt to separate +without heating to a high degree will prove a failure. + + +TO CURRY RUSSET LEATHER. + +The hide to be curried is placed upon a table, and a warm iron is +rubbed over the flesh side; it is then turned over, and the grain side +is moistened with water and rubbed with a copper slicker until it is +nearly dry, after which coloring matter, made of Brazilwood and yellow +berries, is applied to the grain, and it is once more rubbed with the +slicker; it is then spread out to dry, and the final finish is given by +rubbing the grain with a glass slicker. This produces a very fine grade +of leather for riding bridles, russet reins, etc. + + +TO COLOR EDGES OF SADDLE FLAPS. + +Use a strong solution of soda, apply it to the freshly cut edges, and, +when nearly dry, rub with a woolen rag until a good polish is produced. + + +HARNESS OIL. + +An excellent oil for team and farm harness is made of beef tallow and +neat’s-foot oil, as follows: Melt 3 pounds of pure tallow, but do not +heat it up to a boil; then pour in gradually 1 pound of neat’s-foot +oil, and stir until the mass is cold; if properly stirred, the two +articles will become thoroughly amalgamated, and the grease will be +smooth and soft; if not well stirred, the tallow will granulate and +show fine white specks when cold. The addition of a little bone black +will improve this oil for general use. + + + + +INDEX. + + + B + PAGE + Belgium Burnishing Powder, 318 + Bitting Harness, 288 + Bits, 281 + Buckles, 271 + Buying Leather, 37 + + C + Care of Harness, 206 + Celluloid Mountings, to Clean, 321 + Cleaning Brass, 318 + Coach and Wagon Bridles, 181 + Coloring Edges, 325 + Crown Soap, 317 + Currying Russet Leather, 324 + Cutting Harness, 45 + Cuttings for Harness, 64-104 + Adjustable Tree, 94 + Bitting, 100 + Breast Collar, Single, 68 + Cart, 102 + Double Road, 74 + English Four-in-hand, 80 + Express, 84 + Express, Heavy, 80 + Hame Collar, 70 + Heavy Coupé, 72 + Long Tug Coach, 78 + Long Tug Farm, 90 + Long Tug Team, 83 + Mule, 103 + Pennsylvania Wagon, 96 + Road, Single, 66 + Short Tug Coach, 76 + Short Tug Butt Chain, 104 + Stage, 98 + Tandem, 82 + Track, 64 + Wagon, 92 + + G + Gilt Mountings, to Clean, 321 + Grease for Russet Leather, 323 + + H + Halters, 205 + Harness Leather, 21 + Harness Loops, 161 + Harness Mountings, 249 + Harness Oil, 325 + Horse Boots, 224 + + L + Leather, Blacking and Stains, 302 + Black, Anilin, 307 + Ball, 303 + Crown Soap, 306 + Finishing, 306 + Flesh, 308 + German, 306 + Hatters’, 303 + Leather Mountings, 308 + Liebig’s, 305 + Liquid, 305 + Logwood, 302 + Patent, 305 + Patent Leather, 307 + Restoring, 307 + Vinegar, 302 + Waterproof, 305 + Stains, Brown, 310 + Crimson, 311 + Orange Yellow, 307 + Red, 310 + Yellow, 309 + Yellow-Red, 309 + Varnishes, Black, 313 + Black Ball, 313 + Collar, 321 + Elastic, 312 + German Leather, 312 + Shellac, 311 + Waterproof, 313 + Polishes, French, 315 + German, 316 + Liquid, 315 + Patent Leather, 315 + Wax, 315 + + M + Making, Breast Collar Harness, 112 + Gig Saddles, 139 + Ornamented Truck Harness, 136 + Pads, Coach, 149 + Soft, 153 + Plain Hard, 156 + Plain, 159 + Team Harness, 128 + Truck Harness, 122 + Measuring for Harness, 58 + Miscellaneous Recipes, 317 + Mouldy Leather, to Clean, 317 + + P + Patent Leather, 40 + Patent Leather, to Separate, 324 + Prepared Chalk, 319 + Preparing Leather for the Fitter, 53 + Prevent Steel from Rusting, 320 + Polishing Liquid, 321 + Polishing Powders, 318 + Powder for Cleaning Silver, 318 + + R + Rein Leather, 322 + Repairing Harness, 240 + Riding Bridles, 197 + Riding Saddles, to Clean, 322 + Round Reins, 133 + Rubber Covered Mountings, to Clean, 320 + Russet Leather, 33 + Russet Leather Mountings, to Clean, 320 + + S + Stitching Harness, 168 + + T + Trimmings, 105-111 + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78603 *** |