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| author | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-04-17 07:28:41 -0700 |
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| committer | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-04-17 07:28:41 -0700 |
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diff --git a/78472-h/78472-h.htm b/78472-h/78472-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c80602 --- /dev/null +++ b/78472-h/78472-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9413 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title> + DESCENT OF THE DANUBE, FROM RATISBON TO VIENNA, DURING THE AUTUMN OF 1827. | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/i_cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; +} + +h1 { + font-size: 1em; + font-weight: normal; + text-align: center !important; +} + +h1 span { + display: block; + padding-top: 0.5em; +} + +.s1 {font-size: 2em;} +.s2 {font-size: 1.75em;} +.s3 {font-size: 1.50em;} +.s4 {font-size: 1.25em;} +.s5 {font-size: 1em;} +.s6 {font-size: 0.875em;} + +p { + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em; +} + +.p1 {padding-top: 1em;} +.p2 {padding-top: 2em;} + +.lh2 {line-height: 2;} + +.cc { + display: table; + margin: 1em auto; +} + +.cc ol { + text-align: left; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} +hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} +@media print {hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;}} + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} +h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} + +table.banks { + margin: 1em auto; + border-collapse: collapse; + width: 100%; +} + +table.banks th, +table.banks td { + vertical-align: top; + padding: 0.25em 0; +} + +table.banks .rb { + width: 47%; + text-align: right; + padding-right: 0.5em; +} + +table.banks .mid { + width: 4%; + text-align: center; + vertical-align: middle; + white-space: nowrap; + padding: 0; +} + +table.banks .lb { + width: 49%; + text-align: left; + padding-left: 0.5em; +} + +.x-ebookmaker table.banks { + width: 100%; + font-size: 90%; +} + +.note-sm { + font-size: 0.9em; +} + +.hang { + display: block; + text-indent: -1em; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + clear: both; +} + +.m03 { + margin-left: -0.3em; +} + +.page { + float: right; + min-width: 2em; + text-align: right; + white-space: nowrap; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: 0.5em; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-indent: 0; +} + +.center { + display: block; + text-align: center; +} + +.right { + display: block; + text-align: right; +} + +.indent1 {margin-left: 1em;} +.indent2 {margin-left: 2em;} +.indent4 {margin-left: 4em;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} + +a { + text-decoration: none; + font-weight: bold; +} + +/* Images */ + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} + +.cover { + width: 20em; + margin: 2em auto; + page-break-inside: avoid; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .cover { + width: 90%; +} + +.frontispiece { + width: 40em; + margin: 2em auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .frontispiece { + width: 90%; +} + +.img36 { + width: 25%; + margin: 2em auto; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .img36 { + width: 90%; +} + +.float_left { + float: left; +} + +.float_right { + float: right; +} + +/* Footnotes */ + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:small; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} +</style> +</head> + + +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78472 ***</div> + +<!-- C O V E R --> +<div class="chapter cover"> + <img src="images/i_cover.jpg" alt="Book cover showing the title and author's name."> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- T I T L E P A G E --> +<div class="chapter center"> +<h1> + <span class="s1">DESCENT OF THE DANUBE,</span><br> + <span class="s6">FROM</span><br> + <span class="s2">RATISBON TO VIENNA,</span><br> + <span class="s5">DURING THE</span><br> + <span class="s3">AUTUMN OF 1827.</span> +</h1> + +<p class="s6 center">WITH</p> +<p class="s4 center">ANECDOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS,</p> +<p class="s5 center"><i>HISTORICAL AND LEGENDARY</i>,</p> +<p class="s6 p1 center">OF THE</p> +<p class="s5 p1 center">TOWNS, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc., UPON +THE BANKS OF THE RIVER,</p> +<p class="s6 p1 center">AND THEIR INHABITANTS AND PROPRIETORS, ANCIENT + AND MODERN.</p> +<p class="p2 s3 center"><span class="smcap">By</span> J. R. PLANCHE,</p> +<p class="s5 center">AUTHOR OF “LAYS AND LEGENDS OF THE RHINE,” +“OBERON,” AN OPERA, etc.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <div class="cc"> + <p> + Ye glorious Gothic scenes! how much ye strike<br> + <span class="indent1">All phantasies, not even excepting mine:</span><br> + A grey wall, a green ruin, rusty pike,<br> + <span class="indent1">Make my soul pass the equinoctial line,</span><br> + Between the present and past worlds, and hover<br> + Upon their airy confine, half-seas-over.</p> + <p class="right smcap">Don Juan, Canto X.</p> + </div> +</div> +<hr> +<p class="center">LONDON:<br> +PRINTED FOR JAMES DUNCAN, PATERNOSTER-ROW.</p> +<p class="center">MDCCCXXVIII. +</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- F R O N T I S P I E C E --> +<div class="chapter frontispiece"> +<img src="images/i_a001.jpg" alt="View of a riverside town with a +castle on a hill above the Danube, with figures in the foreground."> + + <p class="s6"> + <span class="float_left"><i>On Stone by L. Haghe.</i></span> + <span class="float_right"><i>W. Day Lithog. 17 Gate St.</i></span> + </p> + <p class="center p2 s4">SCHLOSS BÖSENBEUG.</p> + <p class="center s6"> + The Summer Residence of the Emperor of Austria and the Town of Ips + on the Danube. + </p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter center"> + <p class="center">LONDON:<br> + Printed by <span class="smcap">William Clowes</span>,<br> + Stamford Street.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- D E D I C A T I O N --> +<div class="chapter center"> + <div class="lh2 cc"> + <p> + <span class="s6">TO</span><br> + <span class="s3">SAMUEL RUSH MEYRICK,</span><br> + <span class="s5"><i>OF GOODERICH COURT, HEREFORDSHIRE,</i></span><br> + <span class="s6">ESQUIRE,</span><br> + <span class="s5">LL.D., F.S.A., etc. etc.</span><br> + THIS VOLUME<br> + <span class="s6">IS INSCRIBED<br> + BY HIS VERY SINCERE AND MUCH OBLIGED FRIEND,</span> + </p> + <p class="right">J. R. PLANCHE.</p> + <p><i>Brompton-Crescent, July 1, 1828.</i></p> +</div> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- P R E F A C E --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">v</span> +<h2 class="nobreak">PREFACE.</h2> + +<p>It appears rather surprising that, while our printshops teem with +views on the Rhine, and the shelves of our booksellers groan with +the weight of Tours in its neighbourhood, no English pen or pencil +should have been hitherto employed in illustration of the magnificent +Danube. Captain Batty, it is true, in his beautiful work entitled +“German Scenery,” has three or four views upon the river, and one or +two modern tourists have slightly mentioned a town or so, which, lying +on the post-road to Vienna, as well as on the banks of the Danube, +they have passed through on their way to the Austrian capital. But, +with the exception of the translation of Baron Riesbeck’s travels in +Germany, published in the fifth <span class="pagenum">vi</span> volume +of Pinkerton’s collection, which contains a very brief but faithful +description of the river from Passau to Vienna, I am aware of few +works in our language from which the slightest idea of its beauty and +interest can be drawn, and of none absolutely dedicated to its history +and illustration<a id="FNank_1" href="#FN_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>. +That the Danube should <span class="pagenum">vii</span> be so +little known to our rambling countrymen is the more remarkable, as +Vienna—voluptuous Vienna! is one of the points to which it leads, +and the ease, pleasure, and velocity with which its stream may be +descended, render, in commonly fair weather, the passage by water +considerably preferable to the journey by land, though performed in the +traveller’s own post-chariot; and as by land he <i>must</i> return, he +thus secures to himself the advantage of entirely new scenery, even if +compelled by time or circumstances to retrace his line of route.</p> + +<p>The road from Frankfort to Ratisbon is replete with interest—the +beautiful banks of the meandering Mein; the battle-field of Dettingen; +the fine chateau and gardens of Aschaffenburg; Wurtzburg with its +splendid palace, its rich conservatories and rock-throned citadel; +Nürnberg, the birthplace <span class="pagenum">viii</span> of Albert +Durer, with its fantastic buildings, and gorgeous cathedral, all tempt +the wanderer on to the heights of Hohen-Schambach, where the plain of +the Danube bursts upon his view. The return from Vienna, by Salzburg +and Munich, or through the Tyrol to the Lake of Constanz, and <i>so +down the Rhine home</i>, leaves nothing to be wished for in point of +scenery; while six weeks or two months, provided the traveller be not +ensnared by the gaieties of Vienna, are amply sufficient, in fair +weather, for the whole of the journey.</p> + +<p>Having sought in vain, on my departure from England, for a +book which would serve me as a guide and companion down the +Danube, I was induced to take a few notes and sketches during my +little voyage, in the hope that, when thrown, at my leisure, into +something like a readable shape, they might become useful to future +travellers, by at least standing in the gap till some abler hand +should supply the desideratum. <span class="pagenum">ix</span> In +the pursuance of this object, I was greatly assisted by a copy +of Professor Schultes’ Donau-Reise<a id="FNank_2" href="#FN_2" +class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, the best foreign guide down the Danube; +but which is yet incomplete, and suppressed in Austria on account +of its political and religious opinions. At the same time, however, +that I acknowledge my obligations to this work, from which I have +gleaned much information on points that could only have been explained +by a native, or one long resident in the country, I must take the +liberty of expressing my objection to its style, which renders its +perusal a task to Germans themselves, and must make it almost a +sealed book to a foreigner. Herr Schultes’ prolixity, and love of +inversion, are enough to drive an English reader crazy. The latter, +indeed, he carries to such an extent, that the waggish description of +“the-in-general-strewed-with-cabbage-stalks-but-on-a-Saturday-night- +lighted-up-with-lamps-market of Covent Garden” <span +class="pagenum">x</span>must hide its diminished head. The learned +Professor sometimes keeps his inquisitive victim on the rack for pages, +before he deigns to disclose the word which solves the enigma of his +apparently interminable sentence. He seems to glory in this species +of mystification, and, like poor dear innocent Dogberry, were he “as +tedious as a king,” he would “bestow it all upon your worship.” Still, +however, “there is matter in this madness,” and the Professor has been +a diligent digger. The list of German authors, both ancient and modern, +who have written upon the antiquities, history, and natural productions +of the towns and shores of the Danube, was invaluable to a stranger +like myself, as it enabled me at once to lay my hands upon authorities +‘pour vérifier les dates,’ etc. ‘Die Burgvesten und Ritterschlosser der +Oestreichischen Monarchie, 4 T. Brunn, 1820,’ is another work, <span +class="pagenum">xi</span> which has afforded me much curious legendary +material; as have also the ‘Taschenbuch zur Geschichte verfallener +Ritterburgen,’ etc., Wien, 1826, and other similar publications.</p> + +<p>The Danube, whose waves have witnessed the march of Attila, of +Charlemagne, of Gustavus Adolphus, and Napoleon; whose shores have +echoed the blast of the Roman trumpet, the hymn of the Pilgrim of +the Cross, and the “wild halloo” of the sons of Islam, whose name is +equally dear to history and fable; to him who, in fancy, sees the +lion-hearted Richard of England languishing for his native land, or +follows the beautiful widow of Siegfried to the “rich King Etzel’s +court,”—that such a theme was worthy of being treated by the first +writers in our language, was an awful consideration for one of the +humblest; that it had not been touched upon by any was the only +encouragement. “You have often scribbled successfully for the stage,” +<span class="pagenum">xii</span> said my friend ——, “why should you +fear to write for the passage-boat?” The joke was a vile one, but the +argument was conclusive. Gentle reader, this is my first appearance in +the character of a tourist. I have taken the part at a short notice, no +one else having appeared to sustain it, and respectfully solicit the +usual indulgence.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">xiii</span> +<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS.</h2> + +<p class="center s4"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a> +</p> +<p class="float_right"> + Page +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">First View of the Danube and Ratisbon — +Description of Boats on the Danube — The City of Ratisbon — The +Cathedral — The Heide Platz — Church of the Scotch Benedictines — The +Bridges — The Rath-haus — The Abbey of St. Emmeram — Story of Frederick +von Ewesheim — Church of the Dominicans — The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche — +Ober and Nieder Münster — Karmeliten Kloster — The Horses’ Church — +The Promenades — Unterhaltungs Haus — Maximilian Joseph Gasse — David +and Goliath — Embarkation — Wörth — Donaustauf — The Dunkel-boden — +Sossau</span> +<span class="page">1</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Straubing — The Bridge — The Hauptstrasse — The +Stadtthurm — The Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche — Story of Agnes Bernauer +— The Ramparts — The Atzelburg — Ober Altaich — Bogenberg — Kloster +Metten — The Natternberg — Deggendorf — The Gnade Zeit — Confluence of +the Isar and the Danube — Rafts from Munich to Vienna — Nieder Altaich +— Hengersberg — Osterhofen — Hoch-winzer — Hofkirchen — Kinzing — +Hildegartsberg — Vilshofen — Collegiat Stift — The Sandbach — New Road +to Passau — Maximilian Joseph I., late King of Bavaria — Louis I., the +present Monarch — Statue of a Lion — Approach to Passau</span> +<span class="page">32</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a> + <span class="pagenum">xiv</span> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Passau — The Inn-stadt — The Fair — The Cathedral +— The Bridge — Fortress of Oberhaus — Celebrated View — Mariahilf — The +Ilz-stadt — The Sword Cutlery — Present Manufactures and Commerce of +Passau — Talismans — Goitres — Excursions into the Environs of Passau — +Confluence of the Inn and the Danube — Krempenstein — Hafner Zell — Its +Manufactories — Fichtenstein — The Jochenstein — The Ruin of Ried</span> +<span class="page">77</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Engelhard’s-zell — Rana-riedl — Marsbach — Wesen +Urfar — Waldkirche — Hayenbach — The Schlägen — The Rhine and the +Danube contrasted — Ober Michl — Neuhaus — Aschach — The paper-money +of Austria — Castle of Schaumberg — Environs of Aschach — Ober Walsee +— Story of Hans von Eschelberg — Sketch of the Insurrections in the +Seventeenth Century</span> +<span class="page">96</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Efferding — Ottensheim — Kloster-Willering — +Linz — The Platz — The Landstrasse — The Schlossberg — The Landhaus — +The Theatre — The Bridge — The Pöstlingberg — View on leaving Linz — +Steyereck — The River Traun — Ebelsberg — Luftenberg — Monastery of +St. Florian — Tillysburg — Spielberg — Mauthausen — Ens — Origin and +History of the City — Antiquities discovered in its neighbourhood</span> +<span class="page">137</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Nieder-Walsee — Castles of Clam and Kreuzen +— Ardagger — Grein — The Strudel and the Wirbel — Mistakes <span +class="pagenum">xv</span> of various Authors concerning them — St. +Nikola — Sarblingstein — Freystein — Hirschau — The Isper — Bösenbeug +— Story of Bishop Bruno and the Lady Richlita — Ips — Gottsdorf</span> +<span class="page">180</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Marbach — Maria-Taferl — Pechlarn — Wiedeneck +— Mölk — Lubereck — The Valley of the Wachau — Schönbühel — Aggstein +— The Teufel’s Mauer — Spitz, and the Ruin of Hinterhaus — Church +and Village of St. Michel — Castle of Dürrenstein — Narrow escape of +Marshal Mortier during the Campaign of 1805 — Mautern — Stein — Krems — +Kloster Göttweih — Trasen-Mauer — Arrival at Tuln</span> +<span class="page">217</span> +</p> + +<p class="center s4 p2"> + <a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a> +</p> +<p> +<span class="hang p1">Tuln — Langenlebern — Greifenstein — Story of +Etelina — Korneuberg — The Bisamberg — Kloster Neuburg — Leopoldsberg, +and the Khalenberg — A glimpse of the capital — Nussdorf — Arrival +at Vienna — Bird’s-eye View and Description of the Environs from the +Temple of Glory in the Brühl</span> +<span class="page">267</span> +</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- M A P O F T H E D A N U B E --> +<div class="chapter center"> +<p class="center"> + <img src="images/i_b018.jpg" alt="A map of the Danube from Ratisbon + to Vienna."> +</p> +<p class="center">A MAP <span class="smcap"><i>of the</i></span> DANUBE +<span class="smcap"><i>from</i></span> RATISBON <span class="smcap"> +<i>to</i></span> VIENNA. +</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R I. --> +<div class="chapter center"> + <img src="images/i_c001.jpg" width="1222" height="709" +alt="Flat-bottomed boat on the Danube with rowers and passengers +gathered on deck."> +<span class="pagenum">1</span> + +<p class="center">Common passage-boat from Ratisbon to Vienna.</p> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>First View of the Danube and Ratisbon — Description of Boats on +the Danube — The City of Ratisbon — The Cathedral — The Heide Platz +— Church of the Scotch Benedictines — The Bridges — The Rath-haus +— The Abbey of St. Emmeram — Story of Frederick von Ewesheim — +Church of the Dominicans — The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche — Ober and Nieder +Münster — Karmeliten Kloster — The Horses’ Church — The Promenades — +Unterhaltungs Haus — Maximilian Joseph Gasse — David and Goliath — +Embarkation — Wörth — Donaustauf — The Dunkel-boden — Sossau.</p> +</div> + +<hr> + +<p>I believe it is Doctor Clarke who advises travellers never to +see a mountain without going to the top of it. I should rather say, +never see a river without following the course of it. One very +extensive prospect too nearly resembles another, particularly <span +class="pagenum">2</span> in the same country, to give additional +gratification, and I have not unfrequently, like the celebrated King of +France, “marched up a hill, and then marched down again,” to about as +little purpose. But never did I follow the course of a stream, however +insignificant, without being surprised and delighted. Without water, +the loveliest prospect is incomplete. Lakes and rivers are the eyes of +the earth; the want of them cannot be atoned for by the beauty of its +other features, however exquisite.</p> + +<p>The formidable account of some friends who had made the voyage, +backed, as it seemed to be, by a twaddling notice in a German +Guide-Book, had nearly dissuaded me from descending the Danube to +Vienna. But the first glimpse of its magnificent flood, rolling through +the broad and fertile plain, in the centre of which the ancient city of +Ratisbon rears its sombre cathedral, and winding away into the horizon +amongst the shadowy mountains of the Böhmer-wald, renewed my original +determination; and my first care, on finding myself safely deposited +in the excellent hotel, Das Goldene Kreutz, on the Heide Platz, was +to make <span class="pagenum">3</span> the necessary inquiries how, +when, and where I should embark on the “thundering river<a id="FNank_3" +href="#FN_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>.”</p> + +<p>The regular passage-boat from Ratisbon to Vienna was to start on the +following <span class="pagenum">4</span> morning at eight o’clock, +and for the very moderate sum of five florins, not quite ten shillings +English, would have landed me in the Austrian capital in about five or +six days, according to the weather. But as neither I nor my companion +was willing, for a slight pecuniary consideration, to risk a serious +diminution of the pleasures of the voyage by a crowded deck, a filthy +cabin, bad company, and miserable fare, I applied to a Schiffmeister of +Stadt-am-hof, the little fauxbourg of Ratisbon, on the left bank of the +Danube, who agreed to furnish us with a boat, steersman, and crew for +the sum of twenty ducats, about ten pounds sterling, and to assure our +arrival at Vienna in four days, or four and a half at farthest.</p> + +<p>The boats on the Danube, though of various names and sizes, are +nearly all of one shape. That which I hired is called, in the peculiar +patois of the Bavarian boatmen, a Weitz-zille, and is the sort of +conveyance particularly appropriated to private travelling. It is +about forty feet long, and composed of rough deal planks, nailed +rudely together, the ribs being of natural branches, and caulked +with moss. In the <span class="pagenum">5</span> centre is a kind +of awning, or rather hut, of the same unpretending materials. It is +flat-bottomed, as are all the craft upon this river, and, in short, is +little more than a large rude punt. Sails are unknown upon the Danube; +it is therefore rowed by two men, and steered by a third, with long +clumsy-looking paddles, tied to upright posts, upon which every now and +then water is flung to make them work easy, and avoid ignition. The +Coche d’eau, or common passage-boat, is rather larger, and is called a +Gamsel, or a Kellhaimer. Those used for the conveyance of merchandise, +are known by the names of Hochnauen, Klobzillen, (facetiously termed +vessels of the line by Professor Schultes,) Nebenbeys, Schwernmern, +etc., all of the same fashion, keelless, sailless, their plain deal +sides daubed with broad perpendicular stripes of black paint, their +only ornament. Some of the larger are nearly one hundred and fifty feet +long; and, in ascending the river, are towed, four or five together, +by from thirty to forty horses. The drivers are called Jodelen, and a +more singular set of beings can scarcely be imagined. In appearance +<span class="pagenum">6</span> they are something between the English +dustman and drayman, but the lowest of either of those worthies might +pass for a scholar and a gentleman by the side of a real Jodel. From +the moment the Danube becomes navigable, till it is again chained up +in ice, these fellows never enter the humblest hovel, or mix with men +of other callings, but even sleep upon the river’s bank beside their +horses. A miserable superstition exists amongst them. They believe that +some of their number must every year be sacrificed to the Spirit of the +Waters, and, consequently, when an accident occurs, they all scramble +for the drowning man’s hat, but never think of stretching out a finger +to save him, whom they look upon as a doomed and demanded victim. +Professor Schultes declares that he once saw five jodelen, with their +horses, precipitated into the river, when their companions hastily cut +the ropes, to prevent the rest of the team from following, and drove +on, leaving the poor wretches to their fate.</p> + +<p>Before I step into my little bark, however, the old city of +Ratisbon, or, more properly<span class="pagenum">7</span> Regensburg, +claims a few moments’ attention. The Regina Castra of the Romans +has had twenty different names<a id="FNank_4" href="#FN_4" +class="fnanchor">[4]</a>, and, according to Günther, owes that of +Ratisbona, or Ratispona, to its convenience as a landing place.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Inde Ratisbonæ vetus ex hoc nomen habenti<br> + Quod <i>bona</i> sit <i>ratibus</i>, vel quod consuevit in illa<br> + <i>Ponere</i> nauta <i>rates</i>.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>Near it, the little river Regen falls into the Danube, from whence +its German appellation of Regensburg. One of the chief towns on the +Illyrian frontier, here the Roman merchant traded for furs, and the +eagle of the “Legio tertia Italica” long glittered in the sight of the +humbled barbarians. From Regensburg the “furious Frank” rushed, beneath +the banners of Charlemagne, to his Pannonian victories. Under Arnulph +the Bastard, it became a flourishing commercial and manufacturing town. +In 1106, the unfortunate Emperor Henry IV. here resigned his crown +and sceptre to his unnatural son. In 1193, Richard Cœur de Lion was +sent hither a <span class="pagenum">8</span> prisoner to the Emperor +Henry VI., who re-delivered him to his sworn foe and captor, Leopold +Duke of Austria. Here, on the 12th of October, 1576, expired the +Emperor Maximilian II., in whose favour Germany revived the surname +of Titus, or the Delight of Mankind. No stronger proof of his great +and amiable qualities can be given, than the concurring testimony +of the historians of Germany, Hungary, Bohemia, and Austria, both +Catholics and Protestants, who vie in his praises, and in representing +him as a model of impartiality, wisdom, and benignity<a id="FNank_5" +href="#FN_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>. “It excites a melancholy +regret,” says Wraxall, “to reflect that the reign of so excellent +a sovereign as Maximilian was limited to the transitory period of +twelve years, while Philip II., the scourge of his own subjects and of +Europe, occupied the throne during more than forty. The Romans might, +with equal reason, have lamented that the tyranny of Tiberius lasted +above twenty years, when the benign administration of Titus scarcely +exceeded as many <span class="pagenum">9</span> months<a id="FNank_6" +href="#FN_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>.” In 1633, Ratisbon was taken by +Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar, and retaken by the allied Bavarians and +Austrians, commanded by Ferdinand King of Hungary, in the following +year. In 1641, the Swedes, under the famous General Banner, cannonaded +it; and on the 21st of April, 1809, it was taken by the French, after +a desperate conflict, being the fourteenth time, in the course of nine +hundred years, that this unfortunate city has been visited by the +united horrors of war.</p> + +<p>Its grand but gloomy cathedral contains some curious sculpture, and +some richly painted windows, the blues in which are remarkable for +their brilliancy. The date, 1482, is upon the upper part of an angular +porch; but the façade of the building, the singular well, the richly +ornamented canopies on columns, in various parts of the interior, and +the equestrian statues of Saint Martin and another, are all of an +earlier period.<a id="FNank_7" href="#FN_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> +<span class="pagenum">10</span> In the chancel, near the altar, is +deposited the heart of the Emperor Maximilian I.; and in a chapel on +the south side of the chancel, within a glass case, is the recumbent +effigy, in wax, of Saint John of Nepomuck, the celebrated confessor +of the wife of Wenceslaus, king of Bohemia, who refusing to divulge +the secrets of his royal penitent was thrown into prison, tortured, +and, finally, flung over the bridge at Prague and drowned, by the +king’s order. His statue, in the habit of the Jesuits, is to be seen +on nearly every bridge in the south of Germany; he, who perished by +water, being curiously enough selected from the list of saints as +the protector of all who travel on that element. On an altar-tomb, +in the nave, is a splendid bronze effigy of a Bishop of Ratisbon and +Duke of Bavaria kneeling to a crucifix. On the Heide Platz, or Place +of the Pagan, a terrible combat is said to have been fought, between +a gigantic Hun named Craco, who had flung forty knights out of their +saddles, and Hans Dollinger, a valiant burgher of the town, during +the reign, and in the presence of Henry the Fowler. The emperor +<span class="pagenum">11</span> crossed the panting champion twice +upon the mouth, and to the virtue of these holy signs the defeat +of the Pagan is principally attributed<a id="FNank_8" href="#FN_8" +class="fnanchor">[8]</a>. Craco’s sword, measuring nearly eight feet, +and his ponderous helmet, hung for some time in the choir of Nieder +Münster. The sword is now at Vienna, whither it was taken in 1542. On +the side of a house, in the Kohlen-markt, is a representation of this +combat; and the square itself, I have little doubt, formed originally +part of the Heide Platz, from which it is at present separated by +a row of comparatively modern erections. The church of the Scotch +Benedictines, near the Jacobs-Thor, has a fine portal, of apparently +the twelfth century. There is a tragical story told of its last abbot, +Gallus, who was compelled to see a beloved brother torn to pieces +without daring to acknowledge him; but I was not able to learn the +particulars, though, Schultes says, they are of general notoriety. The +celebrated <span class="pagenum">12</span> bridge across the Danube is +a clumsy-looking affair, and sadly disappoints the expectant traveller: +the honour of its erection is hotly disputed between Henry the Proud +and——the Devil<a id="FNank_9" href="#FN_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>! +Their imperial and satanic majesties have each their zealous partisans, +but the proofs are in favour of the earthly potentate, who, in +conjunction with the town of Ratisbon, commenced the work A.D. 1135. It +was finished in 1146. It is of free-stone, supported by piles of oak +driven to a considerable depth in the bed of the river, consists of +fifteen arches, and is one thousand and ninety-one feet in length. Of +the three principal bridges of Germany, that of Dresden is said to be +the most elegant; that of Prague, the longest; and that of Ratisbon, +the strongest. Besides this stone bridge there are two wooden bridges, +one very small, connecting the stone bridge with a long island in the +middle of the river, and another of larger dimensions, which leads +from the island to the city <span class="pagenum">13</span> near the +Nieder Münster. In the Kohlenmarkt stands the Rathhaus, or Hotel de +Ville, where from 1662 to 1806 the diet was held. Justice and Fortune +have inherited the building. The Tribunal of Police is established in +one part of it, and the Lottery is drawn in the other. Its curious +old gate and bay-window are in excellent preservation. Their arches +and crocketted pinnacles are of the thirteenth century, and greatly +resemble those of the monument of our Edward I. at Westminster. The two +figures above the gate, one bearing a martel de fer, and the other in +the act of flinging a stone, are of the close of the fifteenth century: +beneath each is a shield with the arms of the city. The Abbey of Saint +Emmeram is now the residence of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis: his +gardens are kindly thrown open to the public from six in the morning +to six in the evening. Saint Emmeram was a Frenchman, a native of +Poictiers, who, having visited the court of Theodo, was suspected +of an illicit amour with the princess his daughter, and murdered by +her brother at Helfendorf, A.D. 652. In the vaults of this <span +class="pagenum">14</span> building lie Childeric, the deposed king of +France, the Emperor Arnulph, and his son Ludwig IV., the celebrated +historian John Aventine, Saint Wolfgang, and Saint Dionysius, the +Areopagite. The body of the latter saint is said to have been purloined +from the Abbey of Saint Denis, in France, in the year 893; and Pope Leo +XI., in a particular bull, absolutely threatened with excommunication +all who dared doubt the genuineness of the holy corpse<a id="FNank_10" +href="#FN_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>: “notwithstanding which,” +says Keysler, “the monks of Saint Denys, near Paris, insist that the +body of that saint is actually in their possession; and his head +is shown in the third shrine of their treasury. On the other hand, +the monks of Saint Emmeram maintain, that the only part wanting in +their relique, is the middle finger of the right hand. However, an +entire hand of this saint is shown at a chapel in Munich. His head is +also devoutly worshipped in the cathedral of Bamberg; and at Prague +another head of that saint is kept in the Church of Saint Vitus in +the Castle<a id="FNank_11" href="#FN_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>.” +<span class="pagenum">15</span> This abbey formerly possessed an altar +of solid gold, a fine manuscript of the Gospels, written in gold, the +cover ornamented with precious stones, and presented by Charles the +Bald to the monks of Saint Denis; another copy, said to have been +written in 751 by a bishop, in the ninetieth year of his age, and +many other valuable curiosities. The MSS. are, I believe, still in +existence<a id="FNank_12" href="#FN_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>. +Gemeiner, in his chronicle, has a story connected with the edifice, +sufficiently illustrative of the period of its action to merit +insertion; besides which I doat upon old stories, and fairly warn that +“gentle reader,” who may not have the same predilection, to lay down +the book in time, as it is only when, like the Knife-grinder, “I have +none to tell,” that he has the slightest chance of escape from them.</p> + +<p>A certain worthy Bishop of Regensburg, not contented with fleecing +his flock, according to the approved and legitimate method, made it a +point of conscience to waylay and plunder his beloved brethren <span +class="pagenum">16</span> whenever they ventured near the Castle of +Donaustauf, in which he resided upon the banks of the Danube, a little +below the town. In the month of November 1250, says the chronicle, +tidings came to Donaustauf, that, on the following morning, the +daughter of Duke Albert of Saxony would pass that way, with a gorgeous +and gallant escort. The bait was too tempting for the prelate. He +sallied out upon the glittering cortege, and seizing the princess and +forty of her noblest attendants, led them captives to Donaustauf. The +astonished remainder fled for redress, some to King Conrad, and others +to Duke Otho, at Landshut, who immediately took arms, and carrying +fire and sword into the episcopal territories, soon compelled the holy +highwayman to make restitution and sue for mercy. Conrad, satisfied +with his submission, forgave him; in return for which the Bishop bribed +a vassal, named Conrad Hohenfels, to murder his royal namesake; and, +accordingly, in the night of the 28th of December, the traitor entered +the Abbey of Saint Emmerams, where the king had taken up his abode, +and stealing into the royal chamber stabbed the sleeper to the heart; +<span class="pagenum">17</span> then running to the gates of the city, +threw them open to the bishop and his retainers, exclaiming that the +king was dead. The traitors were, however, disappointed. Frederich von +Ewesheim, a devoted servant of the king, suspecting some evil, had +persuaded the monarch to exchange clothes and chambers with him, and +the assassin’s dagger had pierced the heart, not of Conrad, but of +his true and gallant officer. The bishop escaped the royal vengeance +by flight; but the abbot of Saint Emmeram’s, who had joined the +conspirators, was flung into chains; and the abbey, the houses of the +chapter, and all the ecclesiastical residences, were plundered by the +king’s soldiery. The pope, as might be expected, sided with the bishop +and excommunicated Conrad and Otho; but the murderer Hohenfels, after +having for some time eluded justice, was killed by a thunderbolt!</p> + +<p>In the church of the Dominicans is a chapel where Albertus Magnus, +Bishop of Ratisbon, the successor of his unworthy namesake, is said to +have given his lectures. This great philosopher and excellent prelate +is reported by the ancient chroniclers <span class="pagenum">18</span> +to have possessed the accommodating but rather extraordinary faculty +attributed to the Irishman’s bird, viz. that of being in two places at +once. It is asserted that, at the very moment he was holding forth to +his attentive pupils from the chair still exhibited in the chapel, he +was to be seen busily employed in his study at Donaustauf, about twelve +miles off. For despatch of business this must have been an invaluable +accomplishment, and accounts most satisfactorily for the magnitude and +research of his literary and scientific labours. The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche +was formerly famous for a shrine of the Virgin called the Schöne Maria, +to which from ten to twelve thousand pilgrims frequently repaired +at a time from different parts of Bavaria. The Ober Münster and the +Nieder Münster were both convents, the abbesses of which alone were +obliged to take the vow of chastity. Otto II. and his Empress Adelheid +are buried in the latter, which was founded in the tenth century by +Judith, daughter of Arnold, Duke of Bavaria, and wife of Duke Henry I. +The Ober Münster was founded by Hemma, Queen of Louis the German, who +<span class="pagenum">19</span> is buried here. The Karmeliten Kloster, +founded by the Emperor Ferdinand in 1641, is now the custom-house and +the town-jail. In Ratisbon, formerly, even the horses went to church! +On Saint Leonard’s Day the peasantry of the neighbourhood brought their +whole stud gaily caparisoned, and indulged each animal with a peep +into the Maltheser-Kirche, a pious precaution, which was supposed to +preserve them the year round from the staggers, and indeed every other +disorder that horse-flesh is heir to.</p> + +<p>I had nearly forgotten the promenades. They are pretty, and run all +round the town. The remains of an old cross are pointed out in them, as +having once been the centre of the city. In another part is a temple +to the memory of Keppler, the astronomer, who died here in 1630, and +of whom, says Prof. Schultes, it may be said as of our English poet +Butler, “He asked for bread, and they gave him a stone.” A monument +has also been erected to a M. Goertz, “parcequ’il étoit assez riche,” +said our domestique de place, an excellent reason, and one which +has justified many a more extraordinary proceeding. Then there are +the Unterhaltungshaus, <span class="pagenum">20</span> (a handsome +building, which combines the theatre, the assembly-rooms, and heaven +knows what besides)—the new Maximilian-Joseph-Gasse, which has risen +upon the ruins of 1809, and the nearly effaced figures of Goliath and +David upon the wall of a house, the work apparently of the sixteenth +century.</p> + +<p>And now farewell, old Regensburg! The Roman, the Vandal, the Frank +and the Hun, the Bohemian, the Austrian, and the Swede, the ancient +and the modern Gaul, have, by turns, besieged, stormed, plundered, and +burnt thee. Thy air of gravity becomes a city that hath suffered and +survived so many disasters; and the antique gold and silver coifs that +glitter on the braided locks of thy fair daughters, harmonize well +with the Gothic glories of thy cathedral and the romantic interest +of thy Turnier-Platz. I confess it grieves me to notice the gradual +disappearance throughout the Continent of those distinctions of dress +which have hitherto seemed, as strongly as language and countenance, to +mark out the natural boundaries of nations and provinces: but I console +myself with the hope, that Europe <span class="pagenum">21</span> +may, with its old habits, fling off its old prejudices, and that +its millions will finally become as much like one great family in +affection, as they promise to look, shortly, from the uniformity of +their costume.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>On Monday, September 9, about eight in the morning, having completed +our simple preparations, and safely stowed away under the benches +of our little cabin a hamper containing some eatables and a few +bottles of excellent Rhenish and Austrian wines, we stept into our +weitz-zille, which awaited us just above the stone bridge, and having +shot through an arch of it where there is a fall something like that +at old London at half-flood, and struggled a few moments with a strong +eddy, occasioned by an island and some corn-mills, we passed under +the wooden bridge, and commenced our voyage, a strong wind blowing +unfortunately right in our teeth. The sky was however cloudless, and +the day, as it advanced, proving exceedingly warm, the wind was only +unwelcome as it threatened to retard, in some measure, our progress, +and prevent our making the proposed landing and resting-places <span +class="pagenum">22</span> in due time. The average depth of the Danube +between Donauworth and Passau, according to H. von Riedl, is ten feet; +near Regensburg it is about eleven feet deep, and something broader +than the Thames at Putney. The right bank of the river, nearly all +the way to Straubing, is low, sedgy, and Dutch like. St. Niklas, +Einhausen, Irl, Ober, and Unter Bärbing or Barbling, are the names of +the little old villages that are scattered along it; but, on the left +bank, the eye is soon attracted by the bold mountains which, abruptly +rising behind the villages of Regenhausen, Weichs, Schwabelweiss, +and Dergenheim, or Tegenheim, follow the windings of the flood in +an almost unbroken chain to within a few miles of Vienna. The ruins +of the castle of Donaustauf, cresting a round, bluff rock, having +at its foot the little market-town of the same name, are the first +interesting object that presents itself on approaching them. The +great strength and commanding situation of this fortress, anciently +called Toumstouphen, rendered it an object of considerable importance +during the middle ages; and many are the tales of the “Battles, <span +class="pagenum">23</span> sieges, fortunes, <i>it hath</i> past.” Henry +the Proud having taken it from the cathedral and chapter of Regensburg +in 1132, the citizens invested it in the following year so closely, +that the garrison, driven to extremities by hunger, set fire to the +building, and sallying forth, cut their way through the besiegers. +In 1146 it was again taken; and in 1159 again besieged. In 1250 it +was the scene of that outrage which has already been related in the +story of Frederich von Ewesheim. After the death of Albertus Magnus, +who, in 1260, succeeded his notorious namesake, and here pursued his +studies, Donaustauf was again snatched from its holy masters, and +once more restored to them, through the assistance of Bavaria, in +1343. In 1355 it was pledged to the counsellor Ruger Reich for eleven +thousand eight hundred and thirty-five florins, and sold afterwards +to Charles IV. of Bohemia for five thousand. In vain did the holy +fathers protest against the sale, and denounce spiritual as well as +temporal vengeance against the purchaser. Charles was too shrewd and +too powerful to fear either; and so long as he lived, Donaustauf +<span class="pagenum">24</span> remained the barrier of Bohemia. +Under his feeble successors, however, the chapter recovered its +fortress, and in 1486 it was again pledged to Bavaria. Bernhard, Duke +of Saxe-Weimar, took it, and reduced it to its present condition in +1634. The Prince of Thurm and Taxis, who bought the lordship of Worth, +in which it is situated, keeps, if I may be allowed the expression, +the ruin in repair, and bestows some care on the gardens, which clothe +the eastern side of its mountain seat. From the ramparts, the view +extends eastwards over Wörth to Straubing and Bogen; and westward, +over Ratisbon, to the mountains of Abach. On either side, the eye +traces the bright Danube, now flowing majestically right onwards, now +boldly sweeping round some rocky point, or gracefully winding amidst +large tracts of meadow land—here almost doubling itself by a sudden +and unexpected curve, and, lost for a short time amongst groves and +hamlets, glittering again like a broad lake, where it resumes its +eastern course far in the blue distance. Directly beneath lie the +little market-town of Donaustauf; the church of Saint Salvator, which +was built, <span class="pagenum">25</span> according to Schultes, in +expiation of the crime of some soldiers who dishonoured the Host; the +wooden bridge, said to be one of the longest on the river, and which +is partially destroyed every year in order to give passage to the ice; +and below it, on the left bank, numberless gardens and vineyards, +spotted with the white villas of the wealthy citizens of Regensburg, +who, escaping from commercial cares, on a fine summer Sunday evening, +look back through the smoke of their pipes upon the dusky towers of +their cathedral with, no doubt, similar feelings of satisfaction to +those with which the London tradesman observes from his retreat at +Highgate, or Hornsey, the distant dome of Saint Paul’s rising above +the smother of our huge metropolis. Leaving Donaustauf, we passed the +small village of Sulzbach, Demling, Bach, (celebrated for the mines +in its neighbourhood,) Frenkhofen, Krukenberg, Oberach, Kirchkirfen +or Kirfen-holz, and Wisent, on the little stream of that name, on the +left bank; and those of Sarching, Friesheim, Ilkhofen, Auburg, Eltheim, +Saissling, and Seppenhausen, on the right, some of them consisting of +scarcely <span class="pagenum">26</span> half a dozen houses, their +humble, white-washed churches roofed with shingles, and the little +Kremlin-looking cupolas of their steeples painted a deep red. We now +rapidly approached Wörth, the chateau of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis, +which had been visible from the time of our passing Kirfenholz, but, +from the extraordinary sinuosities of the river, appeared, at one +moment, to have been left entirely behind us. The exterior is anything +but prepossessing, recalling to the mind of a cockney, like myself, +the dead walls and extinguisher-capped towers of the Penitentiary +at Milbank. The dark firs that rise beside it, and the rich meadows +that gently slope from its terrace wall to the water’s edge, are, it +must be confessed, infinitely more romantic and ornamental than the +rows of cabbages and stunted willows that form the foreground to its +inglorious likeness,—still the idea of a prison would, I think, be +with any stranger the predominant one. Wörth is, however, a palace, +and, no doubt, handsome enough when you are in it. It has been, like +most of the castles and palaces in this part of the world, bought and +sold, pledged and redeemed <span class="pagenum">27</span> for all +sorts of sums by all sorts of people. Those who wish to know the exact +number of florins it was valued at during the fourteenth and fifteenth +centuries, will find them scrupulously set down by Prof. Schultes; +but, as no matters of historical or romantic interest are connected +with its various transfers, I shall content myself by merely stating, +that it was anciently the property of the bishops of Ratisbon, and +came to Bavaria in 1809, shortly after which period it was bought by +its present possessor. Nearly opposite Wörth, upon the right bank, is +the small town of Pfätter, or Pfada, as it is called in the dialect of +the country, the first post-station from Ratisbon. A little streamlet +of the same name falls into the Danube beside it. A dozen small +villages, remarkable only for appellations that would cost an untutored +Englishman as many teeth to speak them—Gmünden, Tiefer-thal, Hochdorf, +Stadeldorf, Niederachdorf, Sinzendorf, Hünthofen, Kirchenroth, Ober +and Unter Motzing, Kessnach, Hartzeitdorn, etc., are scattered along +the banks, both now exceedingly flat and uninteresting, the mountains +on the left having retreated <span class="pagenum">28</span> from the +river, which here winds and doubles like a hunted hare. My companion +and I therefore landed, and leaving the boat to thread the mazes of +this watery labyrinth, strode forward at a good round pace across +the fields towards Straubing, the tin-capped steeples of which were +flashing back the rays of the setting sun. The great plain extending +from the gates of Ratisbon, as far as Pleinting, is supposed to +have been once a large morass, which, on being drained, has left a +rich black soil several feet deep (the celebrated Dunkelboden.) The +peasantry of this favoured district are exceedingly proud, and fond of +all kinds of finery. The finest Swiss and Dutch linen, silk and satin +kerchiefs of the gayest hues, Brabant lace, and gold and silver stuffs +of all descriptions, are in constant requisition. The men wear gold +rings, and generally two gold watches. The black velvet or embroidered +silk boddices of the women are laced with massive silver chains, from +which hang a profusion of gold and silver trinkets, hearts, crosses, +coins, medals, etc. The custom of tying a black silk handkerchief round +the neck, with the bow behind, <span class="pagenum">29</span> and +the ends hanging down the back, is, I think, peculiar to Bavaria. A +wedding here is a scene of great extravagance and uproar; many tables, +accommodating at least a dozen persons each, are set out with all +manner of good things, and the feasting continues for several days, +all day long. Ignorant, however, as they are wealthy and luxurious, +few even of the most respectable amongst them can either read or +write, and are therefore, says Schultes, entitled in every respect +to the appellation by which they are generally distinguished, i. e. +“Bauern vom Dunkelboden”—“Peasants of the dark earth.” Sossau, on the +left bank, shortly after you enter the Landgericht of Straubing, is +celebrated for a picture of the Virgin, which, in 1534, the angels +brought here in a boat, from a village where the doctrines of Luther +had taken root, to the great indignation of the holy portrait. Those +who are sufficiently sceptical to doubt the veracity of this story, may +consult the account of the monks of Kloster Windberg<a id="FNank_13" +href="#FN_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>, (to which Sossau belonged,) +<span class="pagenum">30</span> printed “cum licentia superiorum,” +and illustrated by a fresco-painting on the walls of their house at +Straubing. The whole angelic crew are there to be seen equipped in +sailors’ dresses, tugging away with “a long pull, a strong pull, and a +pull all together,” (the last pull, by the way, must have been an extra +miracle on the Danube, the advantage of such unanimity never entering +the heads of the honest boatmen), and having on board not only the +offended picture, but the outraged church itself!—I have heard of a +worthy enactor of old Capulet, who, by a curious transposition of his +prepositions, commanded the astonished Juliet to prepare</p> + +<p class="center"> + To go <i>to</i> Paris <i>with</i> St. Peter’s church. +</p> + +<p>Now, however extraordinary this paternal injunction might appear +to a modern heretical London audience, it is obvious, upon due +consideration, that the speech, being placed in the mouth of a Roman +Catholic of the sixteenth century, was not so much out of character as +might be imagined at <span class="pagenum">31</span> the moment. The +chapel of Loretto and the church of Sossau had set a noble example of +locomotion, and Saint Peter’s of Verona could have no rational reason +for refusing to follow it upon a proper occasion.</p> + +<p>Ainhausen, the property of Count Liebelfing, on the high road to +Rinkheim and Kagers, an old village from which the Lords of Kagers +formerly took their title, are the last villages on the right bank of +the river before you arrive at Straubing, the first town of consequence +on the Danube after leaving Ratisbon.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R II. --> +<div class="chapter center"> +<span class="pagenum">32</span> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Straubing — The Bridge — The Hauptstrasse — The Stadtthurm — The +Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche — Story of Agnes Bernauer — The Ramparts +— The Atzelburg — Ober Altaich — Bogenberg — Kloster Metten — The +Natternberg — Deggendorf — The Gnade Zeit — Confluence of the Isar and +the Danube — Rafts from Munich to Vienna — Nieder Altaich — Hengersberg +— Osterhofen — Hoch-winzer — Hofkirchen — Kinzing — Hildegartsberg +— Vilshofen — Collegiat Stift — The Sandbach — New Road to Passau — +Maximilian Joseph I., late King of Bavaria — Louis I., the present +Monarch — Statue of a Lion — Approach to Passau.</p> +</div> + +<hr> + +<p>Straubing is pleasantly situated on the right bank of a small arm of +the river, or, as it might be called, a canal, through which part of +the noble stream has, of late years, been conducted to the very walls. +In front of it, the mountains, which, as I have already mentioned, have +retreated from the left bank, form a fine amphitheatre, in the centre +of which, the insulated Bogenberg rises like a pyramid. Like most +cities of any size and antiquity in Germany, Straubing is divided into +an Alt-Stadt and a Neu-Stadt. The old town is conjectured by some to +have been the Serviodurum Augusti of the Romans, the seat of the <span +class="pagenum">33</span> Castra Augustana, etc., and traces of some +entrenchments, supposed to be Roman, are still to be seen just without +the walls. The name of “Straubinga” (“Curtis Regia”) first occurs in an +instrument, dated A.D. 902. About forty years afterwards, we hear of +the deeds of the noble knights of Straubing and Stein. At the latter +end of the tenth century, Henry III. obtained the surname of Pious, +by presenting Straubing to his brother Otto, Bishop of Augsburg, who +left it to the cathedral and chapter of that place. It was governed by +an officer called a Vice Dom, till the commencement of the thirteenth +century, when New Straubing was built, and the old town re-annexed to +the Duchy of Bavaria. Frederick the Handsome, of Austria, besieged +and took it in 1319. In 1332, Louis the Bavarian lay before the town +from the 4th of July till the 24th of August, when, provoked by its +obstinate resistance, he threw a bridge over the Danube, by Kagers, +and, making a desperate assault at the Spital-gate, succeeded at last +in carrying the place by storm. His son, Duke William, first husband +of Matilda <span class="pagenum">34</span> of Lancaster, built the +castle on the Danube, A.D. 1356. It is now converted into barracks. In +1393, Straubing was entirely destroyed by fire, and the conflagration +having begun at a joiner’s, no person of that trade was permitted to +reside in the city from that time till the year 1540. It was most +vigorously defended against the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, in 1633. The +burgomaster, Höller, an excellent marksman, shot upwards of thirty of +his best officers from the ramparts. In 1635, Straubing was visited by +a dreadful pestilence. In 1704, it was taken by the Austrians, and, in +1780, the best half of it fell a second time a prey to the flames. The +loss was estimated at more than a million of florins.</p> + +<p>Straubing in its present state is cheerful and tolerably +regular, but more like a Dutch than a Bavarian town; the bridge +across the Danube is pretty, and the gate which terminates it +fantastic. On entering the Hauptstrasse or High-street, the eye is +attracted by a quadrangular tower, forming part of the Rath-haus or +Guildhall, and much prized by the Straubingers, who consider <span +class="pagenum">35</span> it the most ancient relic in the place; but +it seems to have been a terrible annoyance to Professor Schultes, +who neglects no opportunity of expressing his antipathy to it, and +astonishment that any reverence for its antiquity should prevent the +removal of a building, which hinders people from looking through the +town like a telescope. This Stadt-thurm as it is called is two hundred +feet high, and is now surmounted by a tin spire, with four smaller +pinnacles at the corners. There are two Latin inscriptions upon it, one +proclaiming its erection in 1208, and the other its renovation in 1783. +The largest building in the town is the Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche, +commenced about 1432, and finished in 1512. In a small chapel in the +churchyard of St. Peter’s, in the Alt-stadt, is a red marble tablet, +on which reclines the effigy of a female surrounded by the following +inscription, “Anno Domini, <span class="allsmcap">MCCCCXXXVI</span>, +<span class="allsmcap">XII</span> Die Octobris, Obiit Agnes Bernauerin. +Requiescat in pace.”</p> + +<p class="img36 center"> + <img src="images/i_c036.jpg" alt="Headstone of Agnes Bernauer."> +<span class="pagenum">36</span> +</p> + +<p>The fate of this unfortunate lady has furnished the subject for a +tragedy to the Count of Torring Seefeld, and one more deeply affecting +is scarcely to be found in the page of history.</p> + +<p>Albert, the only son of Duke Ernst of Bavaria, was one of the most +accomplished and valiant princes of the age he lived in. His father +and family had selected for his bride, the young Countess Elizabeth of +Würtemberg. The contract was signed and the marriage on the point of +taking place, <span class="pagenum">37</span> when the lady suddenly +eloped with a more favoured lover, John Count of Werdenberg. The +tidings were brought to Albert at Augsburg, where he was attending a +grand tournament given in honour of the approaching nuptials, but they +fell unheeded on his ear, as his heart, which had not been consulted +in the choice of his bride, had just yielded itself, “rescue or no +rescue,” to the bright eyes of a young maiden whom he had distinguished +from the crowd of beauties that graced the lists. Virtuous as she was +lovely, Agnes Bernauer had obtained amongst the citizens of Augsburg, +the appellation of “the angel:” but she was the daughter of a bather, +an employment considered at that period, in Germany, as particularly +dishonourable. Regardless of consequences, however, he divulged his +passion, and their marriage was shortly afterwards privately celebrated +in Albert’s castle at Vohberg. Their happiness was doomed to be of +short duration. Duke Ernst became possessed of their secret, and the +anger of the whole house of Munich burst upon the heads of the devoted +couple! Albert was commanded <span class="pagenum">38</span> to sign +a divorce from Agnes, and prepare immediately to marry Anna, daughter +of Duke Erich of Brunswick. The indignant prince refused to obey, and +being afterwards denied admission to a tournament at Regensburg, on +the plea of his having contracted a dishonourable alliance, he rode +boldly into the lists upon the Heide Platz, before the whole company +declared Agnes Bernauer his lawful wife and duchess, and conducted +her to his palace at Straubing, attended as became her rank. Every +species of malice and misrepresentation was now set at work to ruin +the unfortunate Agnes. Albert’s uncle, Duke Wilhelm, who was the only +one of the family inclined to protect her, had a sickly child, and she +was accused of having administered poison to it. But the duke detected +the falsehood and became more firmly her friend. Death too soon +deprived her of this noble protector, and the fate of the poor duchess +was immediately sealed. Taking advantage of Albert’s absence from +Straubing, the authorities of the place arrested her on some frivolous +pretext, and the honest indignation with which she asserted <span +class="pagenum">39</span> her innocence, was tortured into treason +by her malignant judges. She was condemned to die, and on Wednesday, +October 12th, 1436, was thrown over the bridge into the Danube, +amidst the lamentations of the populace<a id="FNank_14" href="#FN_14" +class="fnanchor">[14]</a>. Having succeeded in freeing one foot from +the bonds which surrounded her, the poor victim, shrieking for help +and mercy, endeavoured to reach the bank by swimming, and had nearly +effected a landing, when a barbarian in office, with a hooked pole, +caught her by her long fair hair, and dragging her back into the +stream, kept her under water until the cruel tragedy was completed. +The fury and despair of Albert on receiving these horrid tidings were +boundless. He flew to his father’s bitterest enemy, Louis the Bearded, +at Ingolstadt, and returned at the head of an hostile army to his +native <span class="pagenum">40</span> land, breathing vengeance +against the murderers of his beloved wife. The old duke, sorely +pressed by the arms of his injured son, and tormented by the stings +of conscience, implored the mediation of the Emperor Sigismund, who +succeeded after some time in pacifying Albert, and reconciling him to +his father, who, as a proof of his repentance, instituted a perpetual +mass for the soul of the martyred Agnes Bernauer. Albert afterwards +married Ann of Brunswick, by whom he had ten children.</p> + +<p>The ramparts of this town are now almost entirely demolished, and +the fosses turned into kitchen-gardens. The former were once planted +with mulberry-trees, but they were destroyed during the late war, +when Straubing, though not absolutely stormed or invested, suffered +considerably from the constant passage of troops, and the skirmishing +in its neighbourhood. The Straubingers are more celebrated for good +living than hard work.</p> + +<div class="center p1"> + <p class="cc"> + “On y mange et digére<br> + Compère, compère;<br> + On y fait bonne chere<br> + Voilà tout le mystère!”<br> + </p> +</div> + +<p class="p1">is the quotation of Prof. Schultes, and may <span +class="pagenum">41</span> with great propriety be applied to +many bodies corporate, of more pretension than the humble one of +Straubing.</p> + +<p>The whole country was lighted up by a glorious sunset as we entered +the town to satisfy our curiosity and our appetite, and some time +before we returned from those important occupations, the “twilight +grey” had “in her sober livery all things clad.” We had determined +on passing the first night on board, in order to reach Vilshofen by +breakfast-time the following day, as from that place we understood the +scenery would become too interesting to admit of haste, or travelling +after dark, and preparations had been accordingly made by our little +crew. The sides of the zille were boarded up, and straw and boat-cloaks +so arranged as to make us a very comfortable couch, upon which we had +no sooner stretched ourselves than the word was given, and by the light +of the stars we dropped gently down the river, passing the Atzelburg +and Hockstetter-hof on the right bank. The former, also called the +Aciliusburg, is conjectured by some to have been the retreat of the +Roman Consul Acilius, when exiled for <span class="pagenum">42</span> +the <i>crime</i> of Christianity, and originally named from him Acilia +Augusta. In its neighbourhood are some entrenchments believed to be +Roman. Reibersdorf, Kleinau, and Ebling are villages on the right bank. +Near the latter the small stream of the Aitrach joins the Danube. On +the left is Lenach, remarkable only as having been purchased by the +monks of Altaich in 1139, for ninety-five Pf. Pfennige, about five +shillings, English.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the precautions we had taken, I was too cold as +well as too curious to sleep; and as the moon got up so did I, and, +seating myself by the cabin door, looked on the gradually brightening +landscape, and listened to the songs of the boatmen who, as they lazily +plied their unwieldy paddles, warbled in their own peculiar style—a +style rendered familiar to London ears, by the interesting “Rainer +family,” for it is not confined to the Tyrol—several wild but pleasing +melodies. It is very provoking that the English should be, perhaps, the +only people who have no idea of singing in parts; an untutored boatman, +peasant, or soldier of almost any <span class="pagenum">43</span> of +the continental nations will suddenly strike in with an extemporary and +very creditable bass, though the air be led off by an utter stranger +to him. On the banks of the Main at Aschaffenburg, and at Möhdling in +the Wienerwald, I was particularly struck with this pleasing talent, +and have noticed it repeatedly both in France and Switzerland. The +complaint that the English are not a musical nation is in my opinion +better borne out by this circumstance, than by the alleged deficiency +of celebrated composers, or the want of taste in the mixed audiences +of our Concert Rooms and Theatres. There is certainly no comparison +between “the native wood-notes wild” of a Devonshire ploughman, and +those of a Bavarian bauer.</p> + +<p>We soon came in sight of Ober-Altaich, a celebrated Benedictine +kloster. A Druidical altar is said to have been destroyed here by +the holy Parminius, who, with his own hand, cut down the oak under +which it stood, and caused a chapel to be erected upon the spot. The +convent was founded by Duke Uttilo II. A.D. 731, who brought thither +twelve Benedictine monks and an <span class="pagenum">44</span> abbot +from Reichenau, in the Lake of Constance. The Hungarians destroyed +it in 907, and it was a ruin for nearly two hundred years, when +Count Frederick of Bogen rebuilt it, and, with his wife and sons, so +liberally endowed and patronised it, that in the thirteenth century +there were no less than one hundred and eighteen monks here, most +of them of noble birth; and the dignity of prince was granted to +its abbots by Louis the Brandenburgher. In 1634, Ober-Altaich was +burnt by the Swedes, but shortly afterwards rose from its ashes, +more magnificent than ever,—a circumstance, says Schultes, not at +all surprising when you consider that, in spite of their vow of +poverty, the holy brotherhood enjoyed an annual income of thirty +thousand florins (between four and five thousand pounds sterling,) +an immense sum for this part of Germany, where a florin in the hands +of a native will go nearly as far as a pound in England. Passing the +mouth of the little Kinzach, and the villages of Saut and Hundersdorf, +we at length approached the long-seen Bogenberg. Upon its summit +lie the last crumbling <span class="pagenum">45</span> relics of +an old fortress, the Stammschloss<a id="FNank_15" href="#FN_15" +class="fnanchor">[15]</a> of the once-dreaded Counts of Bogen. Germany +in the times they flourished was, as the Legate Cupanus described it +in his letters to Rome—a den of thieves. The deplorable state into +which the whole empire was plunged by the quarrels between the popes +and the house of Swabia, the almost total annihilation of the imperial +power by the death of Conrad IV., and the interregnum that followed +the death of Richard King of the Romans, in 1271, is vividly described +by contemporary writers, one of whom, in the language of scripture, +exclaims, “In those days there was no king in Israel, and every one +did that which was right in his own eyes.” “The earth (says another) +mourned and languished, Mount Lebanon was shaken from its foundations, +and the moon was turned into blood<a id="FNank_16" href="#FN_16" +class="fnanchor">[16]</a>.” The terms noble and robber were synonymous, +and the higher the rank the more <span class="pagenum">46</span> +lawless and rapacious were the deeds of the titled ruffian. The castle +of Bogen was admirably adapted for a bandit’s hold. Seated upon the +apex of a pyramidical rock, inaccessible but by one narrow pass on its +eastern side, which a handful of determined men might keep against a +host, and commanding a view over nearly half the dukedom of Bavaria, +its lawless lord watched from its battlements, like a vulture, the +approach of his unsuspecting prey, and, pouncing upon it, bore it up +in triumph to his mountain eyrie, where he feasted at his leisure in +security. The domains of the Counts of Bogen extended from Regensburg +to the Ilz, and from the shores of the Danube far into Bohemia. +Their friendship and alliance were sought by King and Kaiser, by the +Dukes of Bavaria, and the Markgraves of Austria; and their feuds +with the Counts of Ortenburg deluged the land repeatedly with blood. +But bigotry and superstition lost them what rapine and murder had +won. Their revenues filled the coffers of greedy abbots, and their +castles were gradually transformed into convents. An image of the +<span class="pagenum">47</span> Virgin was one day seen floating upon +the Danube, and drifting ashore near the little market-town of Bogen, +which lies at the foot of the mountain, on its western side, rested on +a stone on the bank. Count Answin, struck with so <i>miraculous</i> +an occurrence, presented the castle of Bogen to the kloster of +Ober Altaich, which his brother Frederick had founded. Forty years +afterwards, Count Albert I. of Bogen was wheedled out of the castle +of Windberg by another holy fraternity; and about the middle of the +thirteenth century the family became extinct, by the death of Count +Albert IV., who had followed the unfortunate Emperor, Frederick II., to +the Holy Land. Ludmilla, the mother of this last Count of Bogen, was a +Bohemian Princess; and, on the death of her husband, Albert III., Louis +II., Duke of Bavaria, becoming enamoured of her from report, offered +her marriage, provided, says the chronicle, he should like her upon a +personal acquaintance. Ludmilla consented to this proposition, and the +duke visited her accordingly. Suspecting, however, the sincerity of his +protestations, she one day requested <span class="pagenum">48</span> +him, as in a joke, to plight his troth to her in a tapestried chamber, +and to consider the figures of three knights, worked in the hangings, +as witnesses of the contract. The duke, to humour this apparently +childish fancy, smilingly held up his hand, and took the oath required +of him, when, to his utter astonishment, three living knights, “good +men and true,” stepped out from behind the tapestry, where they had +been purposely concealed by the cunning Bohemian, and compelled the +ensnared potentate to ratify his pledge<a id="FNank_17" href="#FN_17" +class="fnanchor">[17]</a>. The church of our Lady of Bogen, erected +in honour of the miraculous image before-mentioned, stands beside the +ruins of the castle, and from six to eight thousand pilgrims have been +known at one time to congregate about its far-famed shrine. It has been +several times injured by lightning, and its roof carried away by the +high winds, a natural consequence <span class="pagenum">49</span> of +its exposed situation. A thunderstorm burst over it on Whit-Tuesday, +A.D. 1618, during one of these meetings, and the lightning having fired +the steeple, such confusion ensued, that fourteen persons were crushed +to death<a id="FNank_18" href="#FN_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>. The +Bogenberg and its vicinity have been fertile in miracles. A ridiculous +story is told by Æmilius Hemmauer, a prior of Ober-Altaich, about +a moving altar, and in the little market-town is shown a tooth of +St. Sebastian, over which water is poured into a goblet; and it is +gravely asserted that whoever drinks of this water, need fear no +infectious disorder for twelve months to come. The little rivers +Bogen and Menach join the Danube near this spot, and on the opposite +<span class="pagenum">50</span> shore are the villages of Absam and +Hermansdorf.</p> + +<p>As the Danube approaches its confluence with the Isar, its banks +become bolder and more interesting; a crowd of villages present +themselves, amongst which the most important are Pfelling, whence a +considerable quantity of wood is sent to Vienna; Irlbach, the principal +depôt for the corn of the Dunkelboden, before the Danube washed +the walls of Straubing; and Wischelburgh, on the site of the Roman +Bisonium, destroyed by the tremendous Attila.</p> + +<p>Kloster-Metten, on the left bank, according to the legend, owes its +foundation to the following circumstances: A herdsman of Michaelbuch, +named Gamelbert, awaking from a deep sleep, in which he had been +indulging beneath a tree, found, to his surprise, a book lying upon his +breast. On examination he found it was written in English, and, though +he knew just as much of the language as the beasts that were grazing +before him, he immediately commenced reading it, and was so edified by +its contents, that he abandoned his flocks and herds, and, repairing +to Rome, became <span class="pagenum">51</span> a Christian priest. +On his way thither he baptised a boy, whom he named Utto, and desired +his parents to send the lad to him when he became a man; they did so, +and Gamelbert made over to him the care of the souls of the worthy +inhabitants of Michaelbuch. Utto, however, had no great affection for +his new calling, and leaving the poor souls to take care of themselves, +crossed the Danube, and wandered into the Waldes, where he built a +hermitage, in honour of the Archangel Michael, near a spring, which +is still called Utto’s Spring, and amused himself with sundry curious +pranks, amongst which was the rather difficult one of hanging his axe +upon a sunbeam! Charlemagne, hunting in the neighbourhood, caught the +holy hermit in the fact, and, astonished, as well he might be, by so +extraordinary a performance, promised to grant him any boon he might +be pleased to ask. Utto requested that a convent might be built on the +spot, and Kloster-Metten was erected at the command of Charlemagne.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side to Kloster-Metten, <span +class="pagenum">52</span> suddenly rises the remarkable Natternberg the +only rock on the right bank from Prufening to Pleinting, a distance of +upwards of eighty English miles. It is nearly three hundred feet high; +and on its summit are the ruins of another castle, which belonged to +the Counts of Bogen, who made it their residence in 1232. The curious +appearance of this mass of granite, standing in solitary majesty upon +this extensive plain, and cut off, as it were, from its giant brethren +of the Böhmer-Wald by the bright and trenchant Danube, has given rise +to many speculations amongst the geologists of Germany; but while the +learned are at loggerheads respecting this natural phenomenon, the +honest people who reside in its neighbourhood, and who, therefore, +surely have a right to a voice on the subject, have settled the +question completely to their own satisfaction. The Devil, say they, +hating the Deggendorfers, for their piety, determined to destroy them +outright; and, with that intention, brought a rock from Italy, (none in +the neighbourhood, I presume, being <span class="pagenum">53</span> + +suitable to his purpose,) with the malicious intention of hurling it +upon the devoted town of Deggendorf, and crushing it, with all its +inhabitants, into the Danube. Passing opposite to Kloster-Metten, “half +flying, half on foot,” with this formidable missile under his arm, +the bells of the convent rang for the Ave Maria! The virtue of the +holy sounds was immediately felt by the arch apostate. “Gnashing for +anguish, and despite, and shame,” he dropped the mountain “like a hot +potatoe,” and there, where it fell, it stands to this day; an immutable +proof of the power of bell-ringing, and a monument of the piety and +narrow escape of the Deggendorfers. In the castle, on its crest, Duke +Albert of Austria besieged his faithless favourite Peter Ecker, A.D. +1347; and Henry of Landshut was educated within its walls, from which +circumstance he obtained the additional sirname of the Natternberger. +The castle was reduced to its present ruinous state by the Swedes, +and now belongs to a Count of Preising. From the little place, called +Fischerdorf, at the foot of the mountain, the town of Deggendorf +<span class="pagenum">54</span> is seen lying in a beautiful valley, +surrounded by hills that rise in circles, each above the other, and +having in front the Danube; here broader than in any other part of +Bavaria, (nearly one thousand two hundred feet,) across which is a +wooden bridge, supported by twenty-six piers, but built so slightly, in +order that it may be easily removed to give an annual passage to the +ice, that Schultes says, it shakes under the curvetting of a single +horse. Of the ancient history of Deggendorf very little is known, its +records having been all destroyed; some by the Swedes, under Bernhard +von Weimar, and the rest by fire, in 1638.</p> + +<p>Pilgrims, from all parts of Germany, flock to Deggendorf upon Saint +Michael’s eve, which is a celebrated Gnade-zeit, (time of grace,) when +absolution is granted to all comers, in consequence of some miraculous +circumstances that, in the year 1337, attended the purloining and +insulting of the Host by a woman and some Jews; who, having bought the +consecrated wafer from her, scratched it with thorns till it bled, and +the image of a child <span class="pagenum">55</span> appeared; baked +it, vision and all, in an oven; hammered it upon an anvil, the block of +which is still shown to the pilgrim; attempted to cram it down “their +accursed throats,” (I quote the words of the original description,) +but were prevented by the hands and feet of the vision aforesaid; and +finally, despairing to destroy it, flung it into a well, which was +immediately surrounded by a nimbus, etc. I should not have noticed +these disgusting falsehoods, but for the melancholy fact, that the +circulation of this trumpery story was considered a sufficient cause, +by the <i>pious</i> Deggendorfers, for the indiscriminate massacre of +all the wretched Jews in the place; which infamous and bloody deed was +perpetrated the day after St. Michael, sanctioned by <i>Christian</i> +priests, who, in grand procession, carried back the indestructible +wafer to the church, and solemnly approved, in 1489, by Pope Innocent +VIII., who issued his bull for the general absolution abovementioned<a +id="FNank_19" href="#FN_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>. Above fifty +<span class="pagenum">56</span> thousand pilgrims assembled here in +1801; and as late as 1815, so considerable were their numbers, that the +greater part of them passed the night in the streets of the town, and +in the fields in its neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The moon had set before we passed Deggendorf, but the night was +light enough to see the “Isar rolling rapidly,” through its many +mouths, to join the mighty Danube; and the spire of Plattling in the +distance, a tolerably sized market-town, where there is a bridge across +the former river, and the post-house, between Straubing and Vilshofen. +Below this bridge, the raft-masters of Munich, who leave that <span +class="pagenum">57</span> city every Monday for Vienna, unite their +rafts before they enter the Danube. They descend the Isar upon single +rafts only; but upon reaching this point they lash them together in +pairs, and in fleets of three, four, or six pairs, they set out for +Vienna. A voyage is made pleasantly enough upon these floating islands, +as they have all the agrémens without the confinement of a boat. A very +respectable promenade can be made from one end to the other, and two or +three huts erected upon them afford shelter in bad weather and repose +at night.</p> + +<p>Isargemünd, situated in one of the many islands, at the confluence +of the rivers, is the only village on your right till you reach +Thundorf, where there is a ferry over to Nieder Altaich; on the left +are the Halbe-meile-kirche, and two or three small hamlets.</p> + +<p>Nieder Altaich, another Benedictine convent<a id="FNank_20" +href="#FN_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>, and, at one time, the most +<span class="pagenum">58</span> important that the order possessed in +Bavaria; its annual income being not less than one hundred thousand +florins; stands at the foot of the frowning Böhmer-wald, which here +again bends its bushy brows upon the bright river. Saint Parminius +is said to have acted the same scene here which has already been +described in the notice of Ober Altaich. And Uttilo II., not contented +with having founded that kloster, brought hither an equal number of +monks from the same monastery of Reichenau, and established them in +a like manner. Its abbot soon became the richest in Bavaria; but the +Hungarians, in the tenth century, ravaged the country with fire and +sword, and Nieder Altaich suffered the fate of its prototype. In 990, +however, it was rebuilt, and still more richly endowed by the Emperor +Otto, and Henry Duke of Bavaria. Saint Gotthard came barefooted from +Reichersdorf, where he <span class="pagenum">59</span> was born in +965, of humble parents, and from a monk became abbot, and lastly, +bishop of Hildesheim, where he died, A.D. 1035. The monks of Nieder +Altaich, it appears, gradually forgot the pious lessons and fair +example of Saint Gotthard; which, during his life, had materially +improved the reputation of the community; for in 1282, we find them +making a riddle of their abbot with arrows, from an ambush on the +river side, as he is crossing the ferry to Thundorf<a id="FNank_21" +href="#FN_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>. The abbots, themselves, also, +were many of them unworthy successors of that holy man. One of the last +superiors of this kloster, for instance, by name Augustin Ziegler, not +contented with expending annually upwards of ninety thousand florins, +ran the fraternity into a debt of nearly one hundred thousand before +he was <i>invited</i> to retire from the cares of office, and live in +peace at Straubing, upon a slender annuity. In the “Topographischen +Lexicon von Baiern,” 2s., 508., is the following account of this worthy +<span class="pagenum">60</span> prelate, who seems to have formed a +very tolerable idea of the “otium cum dignitate,” which should bless +an abbot of Benedictines. “Besides his valet he had two pages. On his +name-day all the principal persons of the government of Straubing +assembled in the grand refectory of Nieder Altaich. A band of trumpets +and kettle-drums was in attendance, from daybreak, facing his chamber +window, and the moment his Excellency (for he had purchased the title +of a privy councillor) opened his eyes, the pages undrew the curtains +of cloth of gold, amidst a flourish from the trumpets and kettle-drums +without, while a battery of small mortars proclaimed in thunder to the +surrounding country, the dawning of the name-day of this important +personage.” His conduct, however, soon became so notorious that he was +compelled to resign, and retire upon an annual allowance of two hundred +ducats and ten eimers of wine. Ten times has this kloster been burned +down, and rebuilt each time more magnificently; till at last, if we +may believe Lackner’s account, the <span class="pagenum">61</span> +very oxen of the community eat out of marble mangers—“pecora fecit in +marmore pabulari!”</p> + +<p>A little beyond Nieder Altaich, upon the same bank, is the town +of Hengersberg, with its old castle, given, in 1212, by Altnann von +Helingersberg to Saint Mauritius, then abbot of that kloster. The +Danube formerly flowed over part of the bank, and, what is now the +lazzar-house, was, at that time, the river toll-house. At Hengersberg, +the Danube again turns from the Bohemian mountains, as wearied with +its unavailing efforts to penetrate the giant line; but the gentle +eminences which still skirt its left bank are enough to preserve its +superiority to that of the right, which, all the way from Ratisbon, +with the solitary exception of the Natternberg, had not presented one +hillock to break the long, low line of shore, more in keeping with the +sluggish stream of a Dutch canal, than with the rapid waves of the +“boiling Danube,” an epithet, by the bye, more descriptive than any +other of its singular current, which, whether running fast or slowly, +<span class="pagenum">62</span> keeps up a constant whirling, eddying, +and bubbling, accompanied by a low hissing sound which (pardon, gentle +reader, the humble comparison) reminded our English ears of nothing +so much as the singing of a tea-kettle. After passing a handful of +villages, whose almost unpronounceable names shall be presented +hereafter, in their due order, to the curious in consonants, we glided +by Osterhofen, a little town on the side of a small hill, a short +distance from the shore. It is one of the oldest towns in Bavaria, and +was the site of the Castra Petrensia. The Avars, who desolated the +banks of the Danube during the sixth, seventh, and eighth centuries, +here suffered a serious defeat; and the victory having been gained on +an Easter Sunday, the town took the name of <i>Oster</i>-hofen, and +still bears in its arms a Paschal lamb. In the meadow where the battle +was fought, and named from that event, “Oster-wiese,” stood Kloster +Oster-hofen, erected in honour of, and gratitude for, the defeat of +the barbarians. Hither Uttilo II. brought some more of his friends, +the Benedictines; but the barbarians returned in 765, thirsting <span +class="pagenum">63</span> for vengeance, and gratified it by razing the +Kloster to the ground. It was rebuilt, but the rest of its history is +neither clear nor interesting. The indefatigable Uttilo is supposed to +have been buried here, where also lie, according to report, which may +be said to <i>lie</i> also, nine of the eleven thousand virgins who +suffered martyrdom with Saint Ursula at Cologne.</p> + +<p>Below Osterhofen, on the left, are the picturesque ruins of the +Castle of Hoch-Winzer, or Ober-Winzer, over the little town of the +same name. Both town and castle received this appellation from the +considerable vineyards which flourished here; but who the Lords of +Winzer were, or what feats they achieved, Schultes says he has not +been able to discover: all that is known about them is, that they +lie buried at Osterhofen. The Pandours reduced the castle to its +present ruinous condition in 1741<a id="FNank_22" href="#FN_22" +class="fnanchor">[22]</a>. Flinschbach, built, in 1230, by the +<span class="pagenum">64</span> Counts of Bogen, and three or four +other villages of still less note, on each side of the river, enliven +the scene, till the ruins of the Castle of Hofkirchen rise on the left +bank; in the fourteenth century, the residence of the powerful Counts +of Ortenburg, the sworn enemies of the Counts of Bogen, and the terror +of all navigators of the Danube. <span class="pagenum">65</span> +What, with barefaced plundering, and the exercise of a self-erected +right, called “grundruhr,” which literally signifies grounding, +scarcely a vessel escaped the clutches of these robber lords. This +right of grundruhr entitled them to take possession of every vessel, +with its crew and cargo, that grounded upon any bank, shoal, or +island, within their domain. If it but grated on the sand, or brushed +the shore, it was immediately pronounced “grundrürhrig” by the armed +vassals of the noble bandit, who were continually on the watch, and +who made no scruple of chasing the unfortunate schiffers till they +drove them aground, and then coolly laid <i>legal</i> claim to their +property.</p> + +<p>Nearly opposite Winzer is Kinzing, or Kinzen, the Castra Quintana, +or Augusta Quintanorum Colonia of the Romans, upon a small height, +from whence a little brook leaps into the Danube. Several miracles are +related of Saint Severinus, who resided here during the fifth century, +how he saved the place from inundation, by planting a cross on the +river’s bank; how he brought his dead friend Sylvin to life again, in +the <span class="pagenum">66</span> wooden church that stood outside +the walls, and how Sylvin took it in exceeding ill part, and insisted +on dying again immediately. “I beg of thee, I conjure thee,” exclaimed +the indignant Sylvin, “not to rouse me from the rest which God has +appointed for me! Why hast thou awakened me? Why hast thou brought me +back into a world, into which I never more wish to return?” The Saint, +I suspect, looked uncommonly silly on receiving this unexpected rap on +the knuckles: his apology, if one he made, has not come down to us. +The <i>fact</i> is related on the authority of a young peasant girl, +who hid herself in the church, on purpose to witness the miracle which +she suspected was about to be performed; and it would be the height of +impertinence, under such circumstances, to inquire into particulars.</p> + +<p>By the time we had reached Kinzing,</p> + +<div class="center"> +<p class="cc"> +<span>“Morn, her rosy steps in th’ orient clime,</span><br> +<span>Advancing, sowed the earth with eastern pearl;”</span><br> +</p> +</div> + +<p>And as we made the point which brought us in view of the fine old +ruin of Hildegartsberg, the sun rising immediately behind it <span +class="pagenum">67</span> shot his glorious rays, like golden arrows; +through the loop-holes and windows of its bare and blackened walls, +that frowned still darker from the blaze of light behind them. It +was a scene in which the spirit of that daring artist, Turner, would +have revelled. My companion, who had given me tolerable proofs during +our passage from London to Ostend; that he could “sleep in spite of +thunder,” was awakened by my raptures; and we stood, at the head of +the boat, gazing at the beautiful picture, and basking in the welcome +beams of “the great lamp by which the world is blest,” till the river, +suddenly taking a new direction, brought us again into the shadow of +the left bank, and showed us Vilshofen, with its long light bridge +and pretty gardens laughing in the sunshine, at the farther extremity +of the valley we had now entered. Little appears to be known about +Hildegartsberg further than that it was like so many other castles on +the Rhine, the Danube, etc., the hold of some robber knight, noble, or +priest, of the middle ages, and destroyed by Duke Albert of Austria, in +1346.</p> + +<p>That most delightful of all chroniclers, <span +class="pagenum">68</span> Froissart, who commenced his interesting +annals shortly after this period, gives a lamentable account of +the brutality and avarice of the nobility and clergy of Germany. +“When a German hath taken a prisoner,” (says he,) “he putteth him +into irons, and into hard prison, without any pity, to make him +pay the greater finance and ransom.”<a id="FNank_23" href="#FN_23" +class="fnanchor">[23]</a> Again, “They are a covetous people above all +other. They have no pity if they have the upper hand, and they demean +themselves with cruelty to their prisoners. They put them to sundry +pains, to compel them to make their ransoms greater; and, if they have +a lord or a great man for their captive, they make great joy thereof, +and will convey him into Bohemia, Austria, or Saxony, and keep him +in some uninhabitable castle. They are people worse than Saracens or +Paynims; for their excessive covetousness quencheth the knowledge of +honour;”<a id="FNank_24" href="#FN_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> and +Schmidt<a id="FNank_25" href="#FN_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> tells +us, that an archbishop thought he had a fair revenue before him, when +he built his fortress on the junction of four “roads.”</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">69</span> Nearly facing Hildegartsberg is +Pleinting, a small market-town, at which the plain stretching from +the gates of Regensburg, along the right bank of the Danube, at last +terminates, and the beauty of the river really commences. The road +from Straubing runs beside it, upon a sort of terrace, and the sight +of a post-chariot whirling along, recalled our wandering thoughts from +the dark but interesting ages into which the contemplation of ruined +tower and cloister grey had led them, to the less romantic, but, in +our situation, equally interesting prospect, of a good inn and a +capital breakfast. Alas! it seemed as if neither were to be found in +Vilshofen, or, at least, that it was decreed we should not meet with +them. Gilt lions, red stags, white horses, and blue bulls; apples and +orange trees, as a herald would say, “proper;” crowns and coronets, +and heads every way worthy of them; suns, moons, and stars, “yea, the +great globe itself,” swung to and fro in the morning breeze, in every +direction, and in endless variety; but in vain, from spot to spot, +“with courteous action, they waved us to a more removed ground.” The +exteriors <span class="pagenum">70</span> of these caravanserais alone +were promising. If “houses of entertainment” they were, that quality +seemed entirely restricted to the outside. Their newly white-washed +walls, and neatly painted green doors and shutters, surmounted by one +of the glittering ensigns aforesaid, but served to make the dark gulf +of the long, low-roofed, rambling, unfurnished, smoky speise-saal, +appear more dreary, dirty, and uncomfortable; and it was some time +before even hunger, that least ceremonious of all sensations, could +induce us to make the plunge. Having at last screwed up our courage +to the sticking-place, we rushed into—the Moon, I believe; made the +hostess stare, by drinking four or five “portions” of coffee, which +turned out better than we expected, and ate a most respectable quantum +of tolerable “butter brod” and half a dozen eggs; for the whole of +which we paid twenty kreutzers (about sixpence English) each, being +then charged at least double what would have been demanded of their own +countrymen.</p> + +<p>Vilshofen was the Villa Quintanica of the Romans, and is situated at +the confluence <span class="pagenum">71</span> of the river Vils with +the Danube. Rapoto, Count of Ortenburg, fortified it in the eleventh +century; and its history from that period is little more than an +unbroken narrative of takings and retakings, plunderings and burnings, +down to the end of the last war. Its principal trade is in beer; for +a particular sort of which beverage it has been long celebrated: and +its principal building is an ecclesiastical establishment, for which I +cannot find an English name to my liking, that owes its foundation to +the following circumstance:—Heinrich Tuschl, knight of Saldenau, upon +ocular proof of his wife’s infidelity, condemned the miserable woman +to be walled up alive, abjured the company, and shunned the sight of +females, and left the greater part of his property in 1376 to found +this establishment. Upon the charter was written:</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span>“2 Hund an ain Bain;</span><br> + <span> Ich Tuschl bleib allain.”</span><br><br> + <span>“Two dogs to one bone;</span><br> + <span> I Tuschl bide alone.”<a id="FNank_26" href="#FN_26" + class="fnanchor">[26]</a></span><br> + </p> +</div> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">72</span> Having re-embarked and passed +under the wooden bridge, on the centre of which is a crucifix, we +passed by Hacheldorf, which forms a kind of suburb to Vilshofen, and +the market town of Windorf, famous for boat-building. Near Hansbach the +little Wolfach falls into the Danube; and below this spot the river +boils over numberless sunken rocks, many of which show their white +heads above the water, studding the stream in all directions. Shortly +afterwards the river narrows, and a slight fall, or what our sailors +call a race, ensues. The watermen, who magnify the little difficulties +of this navigation into the most astounding dangers, call this “das +gefürchtete Sandbach!” The cottages on the banks now assumed a Swiss +appearance, being all of wood, with galleries across their gables, +and far-projecting roofs. A slight change was also perceivable in the +costume of the women; the little black silk cap, with its long ribbon +streamers, had given place to a dark-coloured cotton handkerchief, +bound closely round the head, and tied in a knot behind, the ends +hanging down. The impetus given to the current by the little fall now +carried <span class="pagenum">73</span> us merrily along, to the great +delight of our lazy boatmen, who made it a point of conscience not to +wag a finger when they could possibly avoid it, past Gaishofen, where +a small stream called the Gaisach joins the Danube, and Heining on the +right bank, and Dobelstein (formerly called Engelberg) on the left. +For a new road cut through the rocks on the very brink of the river, +by which nearly six English miles are saved in posting to Passau, +Bavaria and its visiters are indebted to Maximilian-Joseph, the father +of the present monarch, Louis I. who, treading in the footsteps of his +excellent sire, inherits not only his crown but the affection of his +people; and by his unbounded kindness and liberality to the professors +of the fine arts, has obtained throughout the continent the honourable +addition to his style, of “the King of the Learned.” In the tour, of +which this descent of the Danube formed a part, I travelled nearly +all over Bavaria, and had the gratification of hearing the praises of +its king from all lips and in all places; not the mere mouth-homage +which betrays itself by the cold precision of the language in which +it is <span class="pagenum">74</span> couched, but the ebullition +of feeling rushing pure from the heart, and leaping the barriers of +ceremony in its honest ardour. “Our king is a good fellow,” is the +homely but expressive phrase in which his character is invariably +summed up by all who speak of him. Shortly after he came to the throne, +he disbanded an expensive body-guard, and on being questioned as to +the policy of the act, he replied, “We are at peace; why should I +burden my people with an unnecessary expense? as for myself, I want no +regiment to protect me, my fellow-citizens are my body-guard.” In a +very handsome new street erecting in Munich by his order, there is an +unseemly gap occasioned by an antique isolated house standing edgeways +in the centre of the modern buildings. On expressing our surprise that +it was allowed to remain there, we were told that it belonged to an +old general, who had resisted every proposal for its demolition, and +it having been suggested to the king to compel him, his answer was, +“No, no, let him have his way; he is an old man, and has perchance +but a few years to live; I will not abridge their number by <span +class="pagenum">75</span> annoying him.” His majesty frequently takes +a country walk alone, or with but one attendant, and, dressed like a +farmer, chats freely and jocularly with the peasantry; never leaving +them, however, without some mark of his bounty.</p> + +<p>I cannot be expected to vouch for the truth of these anecdotes as +far as regards their details or the exact expressions used, but they +are amongst the many in general circulation; and an excellent modern +tourist has justly remarked, that “an anecdote in general circulation, +even though not strictly true in point of fact, will commonly be +accordant to the character of the person of whom it is related, and +will thus be a correct, though perhaps a fictitious illustration of his +mode of acting.” The person of Louis is worthy his noble character; +intelligence and spirit are visible in every line of his countenance; +a high forehead, large and deeply-set dark eyes, to which a profusion +of black hair, pushed carelessly off the temples, and dark upturned +mustachios, would give something like an expression of fierceness, were +it not for the benignant smile which plays about his mouth when <span +class="pagenum">76</span> addressing you. His queen, too, is renowned +for her beauty and affability; and, in short, a more handsome and +deservedly popular pair never graced a continental throne.</p> + +<p>But to return to the Danube, from whence I have wandered to pay my +humble tribute of praise to one of the best of monarchs. By the side +of the new road before mentioned is the statue of a lion-couchant +upon a pedestal, and placed upon a jutting rock, with an inscription +beneath it stating the chaussée to have been made by command of +Maximilian-Joseph I., King of Bavaria. In a few minutes after you have +passed this monument, the towers of the church of Maria-hilf appear +above the hills, and shortly afterwards the cathedral of Passau, and +the old fort of Oberhaus on the opposite height, are seen rising over +the foliage of an island in the centre of the river. The approach to +the city between the island and the left bank is most beautiful; and +whoever is acquainted with the scenery of the Rhine will immediately +acknowledge, that it has not improperly obtained the appellation of +“the Coblentz of the Danube.”</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R III. --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">77</span> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Passau — The Inn-stadt — The Fair — The Cathedral — The Bridge — +Fortress of Oberhaus — Celebrated View — Maria-hilf — The Ilz-stadt +— The Sword Cutlery — Present Manufactures and Commerce of Passau +— Talismans — Goitres — Excursions into the Environs of Passau — +Confluence of the Inn and the Danube — Krempenstein — Hafner Zell — Its +Manufactories — Fichtenstein — The Jochenstein — The Ruin of Ried.</p> +</div> + +<p>A spot where three rivers meet, amidst a quadruple chain of +mountains, rising four hundred feet above the level of the water, was +not likely to escape the notice of the ancient lords of the world, +and consequently the Romans built, upon the promontory between the +Inn and the Danube, their “Castra Batava.” The Inn-stadt, on the +right bank of the Inn, and which is connected with Passau by a bridge +across that river, was the Roman Bojodurum. In St. Severin’s time it +was called Boitro. The saint saved the city from the wrath of Gibuld, +King of Swabia, but it was destroyed by Chunimund, the successor of +<span class="pagenum">78</span> Gibuld, while Severin was at his +kloster near Vienna, A.D. 475. Bibilo, Bishop of Lorch, flying from +the destroying Avars, was received with open arms by Uttilo II., who +built for him here, at the eastern end of the city, the Nonnen-kloster +of Nidernburg, A.D. 739. About one hundred and fifty years later, +the successors of this bishop modestly laid claim to the whole city; +and kept it in defiance of king and kaiser, till the year 1802, +shortly after which period it was secularized and given to the Grand +Duke of Tuscany. The bishopric of Passau, under its ecclesiastical +princes, included (besides the city of Passau, the Inn-stadt, and the +Ilz-stadt,) the castles of Marsbach and Rana-riedl, the market-towns +of Ebersberg and Ips, the towns of Mautern, Amstetten, Greifenstein, +Stockerau, St. Andre, and many other places in Austria, nearly the +whole of the present bishopric of Linz, and a large portion of Bohemia. +One of these sovereign prelates, of the family of Hohenloe, ran the +bishopric; notwithstanding its immense revenues, into considerable +debt, while, <span class="pagenum">79</span> with great affectation of +piety and contempt for the pomps and vanities of this life, he caused +to be inscribed on the walls of his palace, “O Welt! O böse Welt!” (“O +world! O wicked world!”) upon which a waggish dean wrote under, as in +continuation of the sentence, “Wie übel verzehrst Du des Hochstifts +Geld!” (“How ill dost thou consume the chapter’s gold!”) At the same +time let us not forget that we are, perhaps, indebted to a Bishop of +Passau for the preservation of that most interesting, as well as most +ancient, specimen of Teutonic romance, the Nibelungen-lied. Pelegrin, +or Pilgerin, Bishop of Passau, who died in 991, collected the then +current legends of the Nibelungen, which he committed to writing in the +favourite Latin tongue, with the assistance of his scribe Conrad, whose +name has occasioned the Swabian poem to be sometimes ascribed to Conrad +of Wurtzburg, who lived long after.<a id="FNank_27" href="#FN_27" +class="fnanchor">[27]</a> On the 2d of August, 1552, was signed here +the celebrated treaty, or <span class="pagenum">80</span> pacification +of Passau, by the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, as representative of +his brother, the Emperor Charles V., and Maurice of Saxony, in the name +of the Protestant party.</p> + +<p>In 1610, the Emperor Rudolph raised a body of troops in the diocese +of Passau, which, on his reconciliation the same year with his +brother Matthias, he affected to disband, at the same time purposely +withholding their pay, in order to afford them a pretext for invading +Bohemia. The troops accordingly, under the command of their leader +Ramée, burst into Upper Austria, spreading themselves over the country +beyond the Danube, and after committing every species of devastation, +passed into Bohemia, where they were at last defeated near Prague, +after they had extorted three hundred thousand florins from the +Emperor<a id="FNank_28" href="#FN_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>.</p> + +<p>On entering the city we found it was fair time, and the square +before the cathedral <span class="pagenum">81</span> was filled with +booths, and gay with peasantry in their holiday dresses. Prints and +pipe-heads, cotton handkerchiefs of the most staring colours, and the +splendid gold and silver caps worn by the women of the neighbourhood, +amongst which we saw, for the first time, the magnificent and tasteful +Linzer Haube, were the principal articles for sale; but it did not +appear to us that there were many purchasers. The cathedral has nothing +to boast of in the way of architecture or painting. The present +building dates from the year 1662, the former edifice having been +destroyed by fire. Not having much time to spare, we hastened across +the bridge over the Danube into the Ilz-stadt, on the left bank, and +ascended the winding staircase cut in the rock, to the fortress of +Oberhaus, the Ehrenbreitstein of Passau. It was a broiling business, +under a vertical sun, but we were told the view from the summit would +amply repay us for any fatigue we might endure in the ascent; and +breathless with expectation, as well as exertion, we stood at length +upon the brow of the mountain. But little was to be seen from that +spot, <span class="pagenum">82</span> except the tops of the towers, +and the houses of Passau, and we walked on through ploughed fields, a +curious sight in such a situation, to the fortress, from the walls of +which we expected to realize our excited hopes. But though permitted +to enter the building, sentinels at each angle checked every attempt +to gain a commanding situation, with their eternal “es ist verboden;” +and hot, weary, and disappointed, we prepared to “march down again,” +when a fortunate chance led us to the wished-for spot. Whether it +was not the right one, or that our previous annoyances had rendered +us captious and discontented, I cannot pretend to say, but certainly +the view, though extraordinary enough in character, fell woefully +short of our expectations in point of extent and beauty. The Inn is +seen writhing through its mountain gorge, to join the Danube, which +at this point it much exceeds in width, and the church of Maria-hilf, +on its bluff rock above the Inn-stadt, forms a fine object in the +fore-ground. But the hills are too lofty, notwithstanding the elevation +on which one is placed, to permit the eye to follow the windings of +<span class="pagenum">83</span> the two rivers to any distance, and +the view from the water, at the point of their confluence, is, in my +opinion, far preferable. The old fort of Oberhaus was built in 1219, by +Bishop Ulrich, to keep the citizens of Passau in awe<a id="FNank_29" +href="#FN_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>. Maria-hilf was once, and I +believe is still, a celebrated place of pilgrimage; and here is the +miraculous image of the Virgin, up to which the pilgrims used to crawl +upon their knees. The infant Jesus is clasped to one breast, and from +the other, water flows out of a little silver pipe, into the mouth of +the pious votary. The image of the Virgin in the church of Maria-hilf +at Vienna, was made from this model; but the Viennese have had the good +taste to dispense with the water-pipe. In 1781, a vessel, with two +hundred pilgrims, was wrecked on the Inn, and one hundred and fifty +unfortunate beings perished.</p> + +<p>Descending into the Ilz-stadt, (the suburb of Passau, on the +left bank, so called from the Ilz, that rolls its dark waves into +the <span class="pagenum">84</span> Danube, beneath the fortress +of Oberhaus,) we hailed a little market-boat that was just leaving +the shore, and were speedily ferried over by a stout wench to the +eastern end of Passau, where our bark lay moored while the passports +of ourselves and crew were undergoing the regular inspection, etc. +Notwithstanding it was fair time, there was little bustle either on +the banks or in the town. Commerce, which once flourished so greatly +at Passau, has of late years, from various circumstances, sadly +declined. Its sword-cutlery, celebrated as early as the thirteenth +century for the famous Wolfs-klingen (<i>i. e.</i> Wolf-blades,) +was destroyed by religious persecutions, about the close of the +sixteenth, when nearly all the workmen, two hundred of whom lived in +the Inn-stadt alone, sought refuge in Austria. At the beginning of the +seventeenth century a manufactory of striped paper was established, +which supplied, in some degree, the loss of the sword-cutlery; and +Passau is still the stapel-platz, or principal depôt for the salt of +Bavaria, which is brought down the Salza and the Inn, from the works +<span class="pagenum">85</span> at Hallein; but the benefit which now +accrues to the inhabitants from this privilege is little or nothing, +compared with what the salt trade produced to them in the middle ages, +when they carried it on, on their own accounts. During the thirty +years’ war, talismans were sold here, which the venders professed would +render the wearers invulnerable. A safer speculation could scarcely +have been imagined, as, until they had tried them, no one had a right +to complain of imposition, and those who did try them and found them +ineffectual, generally made the discovery too late to expose or punish +the impostor. The people of Passau and its neighbourhood might be +considered particularly good-looking, were it not for the hideous +goitre, which is exceedingly common in this part of Germany. The +appearance of this excrescence is most disgusting to the eye of the +unaccustomed traveller, but the natives take no measures to prevent or +to conceal it: and, indeed, both here, as in some parts of Switzerland, +it is considered by many a beauty, instead of a deformity. Schultes +recommends, to those who have <span class="pagenum">86</span> +the time to make them, excursions to Formbach, Wernstein, and several +other places in the environs of Passau, and a ramble up the wild valley +of the Ilz, to the ruins of the old castle of Halz, the seat of an +ancient family, that, rising into fame through the deeds of Albert the +Valiant, in the time of Rudolph of Hapsburg, became extinct with the +death of Count Luitprand, in 1375. We, however, had too long a journey +in perspective to venture on including ourselves in that number, so +late in the season, and with particular objects in view; and as our +steersman made his appearance a few moments after we returned to +the boat with our papers “en régle,” we were soon in the middle of +the stream again, and rapidly bidding adieu to the Coblentz of the +Danube.</p> + +<p>The view down the two rivers, (the Inn and the Danube,) from +the point of their confluence, is, as I have already mentioned, in +my opinion, far more beautiful though not so extraordinary as that +obtained from the heights above them. Standing in the stern of the +boat, and looking back on the too rapidly disappearing scene, on +our +<span class="pagenum">87</span> + right arose the long walls and +round towers of Oberhaus, upon a range of precipices richly hung +with wood, and full four hundred fathoms high; on our left stood +the Maria-Hilf-berg, crowned with its church, and the houses of the +Inn-stadt picturesquely grouped at its foot,—in the centre, the town +of Passau, forming a salient angle upon a plane of water, nearly two +thousand feet in width, and standing like an island between two of +the noblest rivers in Germany. The time allowed us to contemplate +this lovely scene, was as brief as the enjoyment was exquisite. The +Danube, reinforced by the waves of the Inn and the Ilz, rushes, with +redoubled speed round a rocky cape, and presto! your boat is gliding +between banks so savage and solitary, that you can scarcely believe +some necromantic spell has not transported you, in the twinkling of +an eye, thousands of miles from that “peopled city,” the hum of which +still lingers in your ear. In its eccentric course, the river now forms +itself, as it were, into a chain of beautiful lakes, each apparently +shut in on all sides by precipitous hills, clothed with black firs +that +<span class="pagenum">88</span> + grow down to the very water’s +edge, while from amongst them peeps out, here and there, one of the +little Swiss-looking cottages I have before mentioned, with perhaps +a rustic bridge thrown across a small cleft or chasm, through which +a mountain rivulet falls like a silver thread into the flood below. +On doubling one of the abrupt points which produce this lake-like +appearance, we came suddenly upon the chateau of Krempenstein, or +Grampelstein, perched on a mass of rock, jutting out from a fir-clad +precipice, that rises majestically behind it. It belonged, for nearly +four hundred years, to the bishops of Passau, who, in conformity +with the general practice of the time, levied contributions upon +the passing vessels, translating the awkward term of robbery into +the more legal epithet of toll. The peasantry and schiffers in the +neighbourhood call it the Schneider-Schlossel, and tell a story of +some poor tailor who, in flinging a dead goat into the river from +the walls of the building, fell over with it and was drowned, a +circumstance which they think exceedingly comical. The age of the +building, +<span class="pagenum">89</span> + and the terrific beauty of +its situation, deserve a more interesting tradition. On turning another +sharp corner,—forgive, gentle reader, the unnautical expression, for +I know of none other that will so well describe the acute angles +that present themselves at almost every thousand yards upon this +extraordinary river,—you perceive Bürnwang, or Birchenwang, with its +mill; and in the distance, on the left bank, the small market-town of +Hafner or Oberzell. Little would a traveller imagine, on looking at +this unpretending town, that its manufactures have been, from time +immemorial, eagerly sought throughout the civilized world—that, from +the banks of the Ganges to the Gulf of Mexico, from St. Petersburg to +Peru, there are no articles of commerce more generally circulated and +esteemed, than those which are fabricated in this sequestered nook +by the hands of a few German potters. The famous crucibles, known by +the name of Ipser or Passauer-Tiegel, are all made at Hafner-zell. +About three hundred persons are constantly employed in this +manufacture; but as the towns of Passau and Ips are of greater <span +class="pagenum">90</span> consequence in the map, their names have been +connected with the ware; and the goldsmith and chemist, while reaping +the benefit of its industry, are ignorant probably of the existence +of such a place as Hafner-zell. There are also here manufactories of +black-lead pencils, and a particular sort of black earthenware, the +materials for both of which are found in the neighbourhood, which is +rich in mineral and other productions, worthy the attention of the +geologist and natural historian.</p> + +<p>Not far from Hafner-zell, on the right bank, stands the chateau +of Fichtenstein, on the summit of a stupendous hill, clothed, like +the rest of its giant brethren, with forests of pine and fir. A +modern mansion is near it; and at the foot of the hill are a few poor +cottages, with a little church, the spire of which is just visible +above the trees. Fichtenstein belonged anciently to the Counts of +Wasserburg, another race of knightly plunderers. Conrad, Count of +Wasserburg and Fichtenstein, on quitting Germany for the Holy Land, +pledged this stronghold to Ulric, Bishop of Passau, in 1218, who +advanced a considerable sum of <span class="pagenum">91</span> +money on the extra condition that the castle should be forfeited +entirely if the Count did not return from Palestine. Conrad, +however, did return, and, dying soon afterwards, left his castle +to his lady. Bishop Gebhard, the successor of Ulric, immediately +set up some claim to the property, and declared war against the +countess. He was defeated, however, and taken prisoner by a +gallant knight, upon which he proceeded to excommunicate the whole +party. The spiritual weapon had considerably more effect than the +temporal, and the unfortunate countess was obliged to surrender +her castle to the bishopric of Passau, A.D. 1226<a id="FNank_30" +href="#FN_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>. Further on, a rock <span +class="pagenum">92</span> rises out of the middle of the river, and +upon it stands a small building like a <span class="pagenum">93</span> +sentry-box. It is called the Jochenstein; and from the arms of the town +of Passau <span class="pagenum">94</span> and those of the empire +being cut on the sides of it, is generally considered by the Schiffers, +the Gränze, or boundary stone between Bavaria and Austria. Schultes, +however, denies this, and tells us, that the real Gränze is the old +tower of Ried, upon a rock facing Engelhard’s-zell. Be this as it may, +we considered ourselves, upon the faith of our steersman, entering the +Austrian dominions as we passed <span class="pagenum">95</span> the +rock; and, accordingly, drank three bumpers of excellent Stein-wine +to their imperial and royal majesties of Austria, Bavaria, and +England, with the sincere wish that no mistaken policy might disturb +the friendship so happily existing between the three nations, or the +general peace and prosperity of Europe. We soon came in sight of +Engelhard’s-zell, where the Austrian custom-house is established; +and opposite to which rises the old tower already mentioned, upon +the end of a long fir-clad hill. Nothing is known of the ancient +history of this little ruin; which, according to the peasantry of the +neighbourhood, was reduced to its present state by the Swedes. The +whole district from Marsbach to this spot is called the Riedermark, +and is supposed to have been, in the ninth century, the seat of the +Rheadarii.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R IV. --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">96</span> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">AUSTRIA.<br><br>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Engelhard’s-zell — Rana-riedl — Marsbach — Wesen Urfar — Waldkirche +— Hayenbach — The Schlägen — The Rhine and the Danube contrasted — +Ober Michl — Neuhaus — Aschach — The paper-money of Austria — Castle +of Schaumberg — Environs of Aschach — Ober Walsee — Story of Hans von +Eschelberg — Sketch of the Insurrections in the seventeenth Century.</p> +</div> + +<p>No sooner had our boat touched the land, beside the little +white-washed custom-house at Englehard’s-zell, than it was surrounded +by a swarm of officials, one of whom, in the uniform of the Austrian +police, which is, I believe, the same as that of the customs, viz. grey +with green facings, etc., desired us to land; and, at the same time, +we were hailed from the shore by a gentlemanlike personage, in plain +clothes and a foraging cap, with “Messieurs, parlez-vous Français?” On +our answer in the affirmative, he requested us to follow him into his +bureau. Having inspected our passports, he asked us if we had anything +to declare: I replied, not <span class="pagenum">97</span> to our +knowledge. Had we any snuff or tobacco? Neither of us smoked or took +snuff. Had we any almanacks, or sealed letters? No. Had we any wine, +or beer? “Monsieur, nous avons fini tout ça en buvant à la santé de sa +Majesté l’Empereur.” (Off went his cap; the Austrians never mention, +or hear mentioned the title of their sovereign without uncovering.) +Bread, butter, etc.? We had finished that too, and would be obliged to +him if he would inform us where we could get some more. The catechism +ended, he returned us our passports properly countersigned, and we +concluded that we should be spared the trouble of unpacking. But, upon +returning to the bank, we found our portmanteaus and sacs-denuit, with +the bundles and knapsacks of our crew, spread out in awful array along +a bench, in front of the Wirths-haus or inn, facing the landing-place. +Our friend soon reappeared, and the portmanteaus, etc. being opened, he +inspected their contents very closely; but with none of the rudeness +which generally characterizes persons in his situation. He looked very +suspiciously <span class="pagenum">98</span> at our little travelling +library, and examined the title-page of nearly every book; my papers +and drawings were also glanced at, but no questions were asked. He +seemed amazingly pleased with our English dressing-cases, upon the +razors in which, particularly, he looked with a covetous eye. “Ah! +messieurs, vous avezlà des jolies choses!” and, courteously bowing, he +wished us a pleasant journey, and retired.</p> + +<p>Having replenished our basket of provisions, and re-embarked our +baggage, we bade adieu to Engelhardszell. Its environs are very +beautiful, and there was formerly here a Cistertian monastery, to which +its inhabitants gave the name of Angelorum Cella, from whence probably +its present appellation. This monastery was founded A.D. 1293, by the +wealthy and powerful House of Schaumberg. In 1571, the whole community +died of the plague, and the building remained uninhabited nearly one +hundred years. Shortly after its re-establishment, it suffered from a +fire that broke out in the kitchen, and was rebuilt at the beginning +of the seventeenth century. The <span class="pagenum">99</span> old +Pfarr-kirche, or parish church, was built as early as 1230. In 1551, +another church was erected for the same purpose, apparently, as that to +which the Maltheser-kirche was formerly applied in Ratisbon. The horses +were here brought annually to the door of the church, and allowed a +peep at Saint Pancras, whose effigy graced the altar. This sight, and +a few oats at the same time administered, were supposed to preserve +them from all disorders for a twelvemonth. Napoleon gave Engelhardszell +to the Prince of Wrede, who still possesses the domain, and hunts +here occasionally. In 1626, the revolted peasantry cast chains and +ropes across the Danube here, to prevent the Bavarians from assisting +Herberstorf at Linz. In 1703, the Bavarians built here a small +flotilla, with floating batteries, and threw a bridge of boats across +the river to facilitate their communication with Bohemia.</p> + +<p>On the left bank, before we had entirely lost sight of +Engelhardszell, the chateau of Rana-riedl appeared in the distance, +on the ridge of a lofty mountain, its white and peaked turrets +beautifully backed by the <span class="pagenum">100</span> deep blue +sky. Beside the hill is a ravine, through which the Rana-bach brawls +into the Danube, turning a mill, and bringing down firewood from the +mountain forests of Bohemia. The name of this chateau first appears +in some deeds of the fourteenth century, towards the close of which +it belonged to a lady of the Rana family, who married a knight, named +Stephen von Schweinbach. Shortly afterwards, it became the property +of the grasping Bishops of Passau. Göllinger, Governor of Scharding, +besieged it in 1486, in the name of the Duke of Bavaria, but was +compelled to raise the siege by Hans Oberhaimer, the lord of the +neighbouring Castle of Falkenstein, who reinforced the garrison. Two +years afterwards, he returned and assaulted it with success. It was +recovered by the Bishopric in 1490, and lost to it entirely in 1501, +when it was taken by the Emperor Maximilian I., and pledged by him to +Henry von Preuschenk. Rudolph II. gave it to the Lords of Salburg in +1591; at the extinction of which family, it became the property of the +Counts of Clam, A.D. 1728. The villages of Ober-Rana and Nieder-Rana +<span class="pagenum">101</span> lie one on each side of the Danube, a +little below this spot; and the river then making a sudden bend to the +north, you come in sight of the Castle of Marsbach, similarly situated +to Rana-riedl. Otto of Marsbach, in 1268, dispossessed, by force of +arms, his father Ortulph, of this castle, and declared war against the +Bishop of Passau. Ortulph bought it from his unnatural son, at the +heavy price of four hundred talents, which so reduced his finances that +he was compelled to give up the castle after all to Passau, in order +to relieve himself from his difficulties. In 1486, it came into the +hands of the Lords of Oberhaimer, who carried on a desperate system +of plunder against all unfortunate travellers, whether by land or by +water. One of these Oberhaimers attacked the boat of a counsellor of +Steyer, Valentine Rottenburgher, and carried off booty to the amount of +seven hundred florins, a considerable sum in those days. In 1610, the +castle was surprised by the Passauer-volk under Ramée; and, in 1626, +Spatt, the famous peasant chief, attacked it suddenly, and put the +garrison to the sword. Opposite to <span class="pagenum">102</span> +Marsbach, on the right bank, is Wesen, or Wesen-Urfar, with its ferry. +The family of Wesen became extinct in 1230, by the death of Erchinger +von Wesen, who was captain-general of the province of Enns, and lies +buried at Engelhardszell. There is a famous cellar here, hewn in the +rock, by command of the chapter of the cathedral of Passau, in which, +it is said, you can turn a coach and four. In 1626, Adolph, Duke of +Holstein-Gottorp, hastening with several thousand men to the relief +of Herberstorf, landed unfortunately near this celebrated cellar. The +temptation, I suppose, was too great for poor human nature; and the +armed peasantry, descending from the hills before day-break, fell +on the fuddled Swabians, as they lay “somno vinoque sepulti,” and +slaughtered the greater part of them. The Duke himself narrowly escaped +in his doublet, and with the loss of all his property. On the same +bank, but on the ridge of the mountain, and half hidden by the dark +firs that surround it, stands Waldkirche, with its crumbling ruins, +which some call the Castle of Waldeck, and others the fortress of +Wesen. The indefatigable <span class="pagenum">103</span> Schultes +has been able to gain no information respecting it, except that it was +bought some time ago by a farmer from the Prince of Wrede, most likely +with the view of demolishing it, and building new huts with the old +materials.</p> + +<p>Nearly facing Waldkirche rises the ruin of Hayenbach, or Kirchbaum, +as it is called by the schiffers, upon the ridge of the long, lofty, +and nearly perpendicular mountain, which terminates the chain on +this side the valley, and forms a promontory, round which the river, +suddenly and rapidly wheeling, completely doubles itself, and enters +a narrow defile, the romantic, and I may say awful, beauty of which +surpasses all description. So acute is the angle here made by the +Danube, that the ruin of Hayenbach, though consisting of only one +quadrangular and not very lofty tower, now presents its northern side +to the eye in apparently the same situation that it did its southern +side scarcely ten minutes before. Enormous crags, piled one upon the +other, to the height of from three to four hundred fathoms; their +weather-blanched <span class="pagenum">104</span> pinnacles starting +up amongst the black firs and tangled shrubs, that struggle to clothe +each rugged pyramid from its base to its apex, form the entrance to +this grand and gloomy gorge through which the mighty stream now boils +and hurries, winding and writhing, till at length you become so utterly +bewildered, that nothing but a compass can give you the slightest +idea of the direction of its course. The Castle of Hayenbach, which +seems to guard this extraordinary pass, belonged, in the fifteenth +century, to the Oberhaimers, the Lords of Falkenstein and Marsbach, +of whom I have already spoken, and who, no doubt, found it admirably +situated for the prosecution of that predatory warfare in which they +“lived, moved, and had their being.” Falkenstein, with which this +Castle of Hayenbach, or Kirchbaum, is confounded, lies above Rana, +and is not visible from the Danube, and the same vague tradition is +attached to each ruin; namely, that it was originally built by a knight +of the thirteenth century, who, having slain his brother, passed +the rest of <span class="pagenum">105</span> his days with an only +daughter in that castellated hermitage<a id="FNank_31" href="#FN_31" +class="fnanchor">[31]</a>.</p> + +<p>For upwards of an hour we glided through scenes increasing in +sublimity, and calling forth exclamations of wonder and delight, till +my companion and I mutually confessed that we had exhausted our stock +of epithets, and stood gazing in far more expressive silence on the +stupendous precipices which towered above us, almost to the exclusion +of daylight, their jagged sides</p> + +<p class="center"> + “Horrid with fern, and intricate with thorn;” +</p> + +<p>and on the rapid stream that, like Milton’s Fiend,</p> + +<div class="center"> +<p class="cc"> + “. . . Through the palpable obscure toiled out<br> + His uncouth passage . . .<br> + . . . plunged in the womb<br> + Of unoriginal night and chaos wild.” +</p> +</div> + +<p>The pencil of a Salvator Rosa could alone do justice to these +wondrous scenes. The grandest views upon the Rhine sink into +insignificance, when compared with the magnificent pictures which +the Danube here presents us at every turn. The two rivers would have +admirably illustrated <span class="pagenum">106</span> Burke’s +‘Essay on the Sublime and Beautiful.’ Nature has contrasted them +precisely according to the rules he has laid down in the twenty-seventh +section of his Third Part. “Sublime objects,” says he, “are <i>vast +in their dimensions</i>, beautiful ones <i>comparatively small</i>: +beauty should be <i>smooth and polished</i>; the great, <i>rugged +and negligent</i>: beauty should <i>shun the right line</i>, yet +<i>deviate from it insensibly</i>; the great, in many cases, <i>loves +the right line</i>, and, when it deviates, it often makes <i>a strong +deviation</i>: beauty should <i>not be obscure</i>; the great ought to +<i>be dark and gloomy</i>: beauty should be <i>light and delicate</i>; +the great ought to be <i>solid, and even massive</i>.” The substitution +of the words “Rhine” for “Beauty,” and of “Danube” for “great,” is +nearly all that is necessary to change his general comparison into +individual portraits of these rival floods, if rivalry may be said to +exist between two opposite species of perfection.</p> + +<p>The ruins on the banks of the Rhine, thickly interspersed as they +are with smiling villages, busy towns, and sunny vineyards, swarming +with holiday tourists, <span class="pagenum">107</span> and echoing +to the whips of Prussian postilions, and the rattle of Prussian +schnel-wagens, are more like modern antiques erected on the confines +of some gentleman’s park, than the bona fide relics of that truly iron +age, “the days of the shield and the spear.” From Mayence to Cologne +there is scarcely one mile of uninterrupted wild scenery; and even if +there were, the charm would be broken by some pert galley, with its +white awning and gaudy flag, some lumbering Dutch beurtschiff, or, +worse than all, the monstrous anachronism of a steam-boat, splashing, +sputtering, and fuming along at the rate of twelve miles an hour. The +mouldering towers that totter upon the crags of the Danube, on the +contrary, are surrounded by scenery rude as the times in which they +were reared, and savage as the warriors who dwelt in them. Nothing +seems changed but themselves. The solitary boat that now and then +glides by them, is of the same fashion as that on which their marauding +masters sallied down, perhaps, three hundred years ago. The humble +cottages that here and there peep through the eternal firs, and the +<span class="pagenum">108</span> church that rears its dusky spire +upon some neighbouring hill, are of the same age. The costume of the +poor straggling fishermen and woodcutters around them is scarcely +altered; and, indeed, one cannot look upon their own walls, blackened +by fire, and crumbling in the blast, as they mostly are, without +conjuring up the form of their ancient lord newly returned from +Palestine, and finding his mountain-fastness burnt and pillaged by +some neighbouring knight or prelate, with whom he was at feud, and on +whom he now stands meditating swift and bloody retribution. For hours +and hours the traveller may wind through these rocky defiles without +meeting one object to scare the spirit of romance, which rises here in +all her gloomy grandeur before him. From Passau to Vienna there is but +one city, Linz, where the glare of modern uniforms, and the rumbling +of modern vehicles, would dissipate the spell; and, much as I admire +convenient and expeditious travelling, I should almost weep to see +a bustling post-road cut beside the lonely Schlägen<a id="FNank_32" +href="#FN_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>, or a steam-boat floundering +<span class="pagenum">109</span> and smoking through the Strudel and +the Wirpel<a id="FNank_33" href="#FN_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>.</p> + +<p>At the mouth of a small opening on the left bank, through which +the Kleine-Michl ripples into the Danube, stands Ober-Michl, the only +village of any consequence in this wilderness. In 1809, the Bohemian +landwehr, under Colonel Hartman, took many of the French boats laden +with provisions, near the spot. The Bavarian flotilla, under cover +of the night and by dropping silently down the stream, escaped their +notice. After passing two or three small groups of huts, another whirl +of the river to the north-east brought us in front of the remarkable +chateau of Neuhaus. Ranged along the brow of a perpendicular rock that +seems to bar your further progress, stand three distinct buildings, +(at least so they appear from the river,) giving you more the idea of +a town than a castle. Far beneath them, but still at a considerable +height from the water, upon a ledge <span class="pagenum">110</span> + +of the rock, is perched a quadrangular ruin, the Toll-tower, no doubt, +where the retainers of the Counts of Schaumberg, to whom Neuhaus +belonged in the fourteenth century, were stationed to exact the tribute +from the trembling schiffers.</p> + +<p>In one of the many quarrels between the Counts of Schaumberg and the +Duke of Austria, Neuhaus fell into the possession of the latter, but +it was subsequently recovered, and many of the first nobles of Upper +Austria were Castellans of Neuhaus for the House of Schaumberg. In 1510 +it was annexed to the empire by Maximilian I., and pledged, in 1536, +by Ferdinand I., for eight thousand silver pfennings, to the Baron of +Springenstein, to whose heir it was afterwards presented as a free +gift by Rudolph II. When the Turks, during the reign of the Emperor +Charles V. burst into Hungary, and threatened Austria with invasion, +Neuhaus was the asylum to which the women and children flew from all +quarters. In the war between Rudolph II. and his brother Matthias, +the troops raised by the former at Passau threw two chains across the +Danube at this spot, one <span class="pagenum">111</span> of which was +forged at Steyer, and the other brought from Vienna, weighing not less +than nine hundred pounds, and secured them with eight anchors, and a +guard of armed boats. During the insurrections in 1626 also, the same +measures were taken by the peasants, who ill treated the Countess of +Springenstein, and made her a prisoner in her own castle. Neuhaus is at +present, I believe, the property of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis.</p> + +<p>It is only on arriving at the very foot of the rocky wall, +which forms an impenetrable barrier to the further progress of the +Danube northward, that you perceive the outlet from this valley of +precipices. A beautiful lake opens to the right near the point where +the Grosse Michl disembogues itself from a woody ravine; and the +mountain chain gradually sinking on each side, the river widens and +widens till the passenger would almost fancy it had completed its +seaward course, and that he was entering upon the broad and fathomless +ocean. From the time we had entered the gorge at Hayenbach to the +period of our passing Neuhaus, a passage of at least two hours, <span +class="pagenum">112</span> we had never caught even a momentary glimpse +of the sun. He now burst upon us in all the glory of his setting, and +we seemed absolutely to breathe more freely as we emerged from between +the stupendous galleries of granite and pine, which had imprisoned us +nearly all the way from Passau. The mists of evening were fast settling +upon bank and stream, as the lights of Aschach began to twinkle in the +distance; and before we could reach the village on the opposite bank, +where it was our steersman’s intention we should sleep, it was quite +dark. On going ashore, we found the little inn, or rather public-house +of the place, completely occupied by the passengers and crew of the +regular boat, that left Ratisbon the morning before we did, and which +our night’s voyage from Straubing to Vilshofen had enabled us to +overtake. On crossing the threshold, however, of the dirty vault that +“served it for parlour and kitchen and all,” we blessed our stars that +there was no room for us; and feeling our way out again, for the clouds +of smoke that rose around rendered it impossible for us to rely solely +on our visual faculties, <span class="pagenum">113</span> we intimated +our intention of crossing the river to Aschach, where indeed we ought +to have been originally landed; but our pilot was either afraid +of the sandbank in front of it after nightfall, or there was some +understanding between him and the master of the public-house on the +left bank, postillions and boatmen generally getting their own board +and lodging gratis as a reward for bringing “grist to the mill,” enough +being invariably ground out of the said grist to indemnify the miller +for any liberality he may have been guilty of towards the bearer. A +lad soon made his appearance with a small boat, into which we jumped +with our portmanteaus, and were ferried over to the end of a jetty, +that has been thrown out from the bank, in consequence of the sand +deposited by the river, which has within the last few years receded +considerably from the town. Here we found tolerable accommodation, and +I lost no time in atoning to the drowsy god for the hours of which I +had defrauded him, the previous night, upon the water.</p> + +<p>Aschach was a place of some importance, as early as the times of +Charlemagne. <span class="pagenum">114</span> Thassilo, Duke of +Bavaria, gave in the year 772, some vineyards at Aschach to the monks +of Krems-Münster. In the eleventh century the knights of Aschach +begin to be celebrated. The Counts of Schaumberg possessed it during +the middle ages, from whom it passed to the Lords of Jörger. At +present, as well as the lordship of Stauf, it belongs to the Counts +of Harrach. The history of this little market-town, for nearly the +two last centuries, is one uninterrupted series of misfortunes. In +1626 it was not only taken and plundered by the revolted peasantry, +but was for some time their head quarters. They endeavoured to chain +up the Danube at this place, and obliged the town of Steyer, which +they had taken at their first rising, to furnish them with a chain +one hundred fathoms long, every link weighing twenty pounds. Besides +this chain, they threw across three other, and a couple of stout +ropes, trusting thereby to intercept the provisions and reinforcements +for the relief of Herberstorf’s troops at Linz. But the Bavarian +boats broke through this barrier, as they had already done through a +similar one at <span class="pagenum">115</span> Engelhards-zell. In +the second insurrection, in 1632, the rebels surprised and plundered +Aschach again, and remained there till Colonel Traun burnt their +camp at Landshaag and dispersed them. In the contest with Bavaria, +in 1809, Aschach suffered considerably both from friend and foe; and +the removal of the custom-house back to Engelhards-zell in 1819, from +whence it had been brought at the commencement of the present century, +was a severe blow to the trade, which had begun to recompense the +inhabitants for their losses during the war. The extensive sandbank +which is yearly increasing before it, is an additional obstacle to its +commerce, and Schultes indulges in melancholy predictions respecting +the ultimate fate of this unfortunate little town. The wine made in its +neighbourhood, is remarkable only for its badness, and is the standing +joke of the inhabitants themselves; we must suppose, therefore, that +it has either sadly degenerated since Thassilo made the vineyards +a present to his friends at Krems-Münster, or that the fraternity +were in want of an immediate supply of vinegar. Aschach is the <span +class="pagenum">116</span> most northerly point, on the Austrian +Danube, where grapes are cultivated for that purpose. But there is +another piece of information respecting this place, which is of more +consequence than any I have yet mentioned, to the modern traveller. The +paper money (papier-geld) of Austria here first comes into play, and +the unapprised foreigner is astonished at being apparently charged for +his bed, supper, breakfast, or what not, about four times as much as he +has been in the habit of paying since he entered the country of florins +and kreutzers.</p> + +<p>The gold ducat also, which has passed throughout Bavaria for 4 +<i>fl.</i> 54 <i>k.</i>, and even 5 <i>fl.</i> in some places, here +falls to its regular value of 4-1/2 florins only; and this sudden +change is exceedingly perplexing to the stranger who has but just +become acquainted with the Bavarian standard, in time to find it of no +use to him.<a id="FNank_34" href="#FN_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> </p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum">117</span> At day-break, after a hasty +cup of coffee, we re-trod the jetty, and found the boat waiting to +take us over to our weitz-zille, which lay moored besides the smoky +wirtshaus before mentioned. We were soon aboard and afloat again, +and gliding by the mouth of the little river Aschach that joins the +Danube close below the town. By its side, on a small hill, stand the +scarcely visible remains of the castle of Stauf, once the property, +as indeed was, at that time, the whole surrounding country, of the +mighty Counts of Schaumberg, who have been already so often mentioned; +and, as the sun rose, his earliest beams fell upon the splendid +ruins of the cradle of that great and ancient family—the once strong +and beautiful castle of Schaumberg—still beautiful in decay,—on a +gentle acclivity, and backed by the finely wooded mountains, on +whose precipitous sides we <span class="pagenum">118</span> had +the previous day gazed so long with mingled awe and admiration. Nor +were its picturesque white towers the only objects of attraction in +the magnificent scene which gradually expanded upon our sight, as +the morning mist rose like a curtain from before it. The broad river +lay gleaming like a sheet of burnished gold beneath us; before us a +number of richly wooded islands divided the glittering stream into +twenty different channels to the right and left. Looking westward, +the mountains of Bavaria and Bohemia stretched out their giant arms, +as in despair at the escape of the flood they had so long held in +thrall. At the mouth of the defile from which we had issued, stood the +little town of Aschach. Still more to the south, the ruined castles +of Stauf and Schaumberg, and, far away in the south-east, but clearly +defined against the blue horizon, towered the Alps and Glaciers of +the Steyer-Mark, their snowy and fantastic peaks alternately tinted +with pink and purple, and gold, by the changeful glories of sunrise. +It was, indeed, a most exquisite panorama, and fully justifies the +heroics of Professor Schultes, <span class="pagenum">119</span> +though, in his enthusiastic admiration of the Danube, he is unjust to +the really beautiful Rhine. “An Englishman,” says he, “who had often +made the voyage of the Danube, and also that of the Rhine, from Mainz +to Utrecht, in search of the picturesque, showed me his journal of +the Rhine voyage. It contained only two words, ‘Toujours perdrix<a +id="FNank_35" href="#FN_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>.’” But to return +to the Castle of Schaumberg. The picturesque ruins which formed so fine +a feature in the prospect before us, were, as I have already said, the +cradle and principal seat of the once terrible Counts of that name. +In the twelfth century, their signatures appear to many deeds, spelt +indifferently Schoumbergh, Schowenberch, and Schawenberch. As late +as 1548, the Schaumbergs were free counts of the empire, and their +names are entered in the Reichs-Matrikel, (the roll or register of the +empire,) as bound to furnish six horse and twenty-six foot men <span +class="pagenum">120</span> at arms,—a slender contingent for a family +that could, by lifting a finger, have brought thousands into the field. +Their domains extended from the Bavarian frontier, beyond Linz, and +included the market towns and castles of Baierbach, Stauf, Aschach, +Efferding, Neuhaus, Flayenbach, Ober and Unter Wesen, Fichtenstein, +Weidenholz, Mistelbach, nearly the whole of the Donau-Thal, from +Passau to Schaumberg, and farther inland, in the old Traun-gau, Kammer +upon the Attersee, Frankenberg, Wildeneck, etc. etc. Wilhelm, son of +Wernhard, Count of Julbach, a descendant of one of the thirty-two +children of Babo of Abensberg, was the first lord of the castle who +assumed the name of Schaumberg, A. D. 1161. His successor, forming +alliances with the families of the Landgraves of Leuchtenberg, the +Burggraves of Nürnberg, and the Dukes of Austria, became gradually +more and more powerful, exacted heavy tolls on the Danube, at Neuhaus +and Aschach, plundered travellers, took their less powerful neighbours +prisoners, for the sake of extorting ransom, or compelling them to +<span class="pagenum">121</span> join their league, and, in short, +were worthy supporters of the famous “faust-recht” of Germany.<a +id="FNank_36" href="#FN_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p> + +<p>Sometimes, a twinge of conscience made them endeavour to propitiate +heaven, by letting its servants share a little in the plunder; and, +with this view, they founded, in 1325, the Kloster of Saint Niklas by +Passau, and, in 1323, the Convent at Baumgartenberg; and by degrees +permitted the boats, etc. appertaining to most of the surrounding +monasteries and convents, to pass Aschach toll free.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding their alliance by marriage, terrible feuds were +continually springing up betwixt the Counts of Schaumberg and the Dukes +of Austria; and the assistance which Henry of Schaumberg, in 1319, gave +to Frederick the Handsome, against Louis the Bavarian, is almost a +solitary instance of the families siding together in warfare. So much +were their valour and influence dreaded by the principal potentates of +Germany, that Albert II., Duke <span class="pagenum">122</span> +of Austria, surnamed the Lame, and Louis the Bavarian, entered into a +solemn contract at Passau in 1340, by which they bound themselves never +to make offensive or defensive league with the Counts of Schaumberg.</p> + +<p>In 1366, Albert III.<a id="FNank_37" href="#FN_37" +class="fnanchor">[37]</a>, having made war upon Henry Count of +Schaumberg, the latter appealed to the Emperor Charles IV., who +appointed the Burggraves of Nürnberg and Magdeburg umpires between the +parties. The Burggraves decided in favour of Albert, and the Count +of Schaumberg and his descendants were declared subjects of Austria, +and the castles of Kammer, Neuhaus, and Fichtenstein forfeited to the +duchy, besides the immense sum, for that period, of twelve thousand +florins. Henry, enraged at this heavy sentence, took the first +opportunity of renewing the war with Albert, who in 1379 in <span +class="pagenum">123</span> person besieged the castle of Schaumberg; +and the contest was carried on with great fury and bitterness, till +Stephen, Duke of Bavaria, reconciled the parties and induced Count +Henry to hold the castles of Neuhaus and Stauf, and the market town +of Efferding, as fiefs of Austria. This peace, however, was, as might +have been expected, of no long duration. The Counts again declared +themselves independent, and the struggle continued with alternate +success, till the church stept in out of pure charity, scandalized to +see such a waste of treasure, and like the lawyer in the old story, +settled the matter by swallowing the oyster and leaving the shells to +the disputants. One by one the contested estates became the property +of this and that kloster, till at length, in 1548, the family of +Schaumberg became so straitened for means, that it could no longer +defend the little that was left of its once immense dominions, and +acknowledging the feudal sovereignty of Austria, became extinct in +1559 by the death of Count Wolfgang.—The castle of Schaumberg at +present belongs to the Prince of Starrhemberg, an ancestor of <span +class="pagenum">124</span> whose family married one of the last +female descendants of the line of Schaumberg. There is a tradition +that the Danube originally ran beneath its walls, but there appears +no foundation for such a belief. The chapel and two watch-towers are +still tolerably perfect: on the walls of the former there are said to +exist some paintings of the fourteenth century; I regret exceedingly +that my ignorance of the fact, when I was in the vicinity, prevented my +inspecting them. If they really be of the date assigned to them, and in +tolerable preservation, they would be worth a pilgrimage.</p> + +<p>A stone pillar near a brook, in the valley before the castle, +is said to record the fate of a Count of Schaumberg, who, though +invincible in battle or tournament, could not resist the charms of a +fair maiden, “armed at both eyes,” the daughter of a miller, in the +valley of Aschach. One night as he was riding to a rendezvous, his +horse started (as well he might) at the sudden appearance of a fiery +dragon that rushed out of a thicket before him, became unmanageable, +plunged at last with his master over a precipice into the swollen +torrent <span class="pagenum">125</span> below; and the first object +that met the unfortunate maiden’s sight when she opened her casement +in the morning, was the floating corses of her noble lover and his +favourite steed.</p> + +<p>Nearly facing Aschach, on the left bank, is the poor little +market-town of Landshaag, formerly belonging to the convent of +Niedernburg at Passau, but now, of course, to Austria. This little +place suffered terribly during the insurrections of 1626 and 1632, +from the rebels, who in the latter year had their camp in its +neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>About half an hour’s walk to the eastward of this little town +stands, on the top of one of the Klausberge, in a forest of +fruit-trees, the ruin of Ober-Walsee. A castle was originally built +here by the Schaumbergs, but it was most probably destroyed by the +celebrated Ulrich of Walsee, governor of Styria, who suppressed +the rebellion which had broken out in these districts during the +absence of Frederick the handsome, Duke of Austria, in 1309, and +repelled Otto Duke of Bavaria, who attempting to profit by the <span +class="pagenum">126</span> intestine commotion, had invaded Frederick’s +dominions; Ulrich, before Frederick could hasten to his assistance, +had already subdued the refractory, and ravaged their property with +fire and sword. In return for this and other services rendered to the +Dukes of Austria by the family of Walsee, Rodolph IV. gave permission +to Eberhard von Walsee, in 1364, to build a strong fortress on the +Klausberge, a permission which, while it had the appearance of a +favour conferred upon the Lords of Walsee, furthered the views of the +Duke, inasmuch as it placed a strong curb upon the neighbouring Counts +of Schaumberg, the implacable enemies of the House of Hapsburg. The +descendants of Eberhard possessed this castle, which received the name +of Ober-Walsee, till the extinction of the male branch in 1485, when +the last female of the family, Barbara of Walsee, in obedience to that +power</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Qui tient sous son empire<br> + Le genre humain les ânes et les Dieux,” +</p> +</div> + +<p>gave her hand to Count Siegmund of Schaumberg, one of the +sworn foes of her own house as well as that of Austria, and <span +class="pagenum">127</span> added both Ober and Nieder-Walsee, a castle +lower down on the Danube, to the possessions of the Schaumbergs. In +1559 the family of Schaumberg became also extinct; and Ober-Walsee, +after passing through several hands, descended to the Princes of +Staremberg, who were also Lords of the neighbouring castle and domain +of Eschelberg.</p> + +<p>Respecting one Hans of Eschelberg, Schultes has a rigmarole story, +which (unless he be jesting, and there is nothing to lead one to such +a conclusion) proves him, however well acquainted with the history of +his own country, unaccountably deficient in information regarding that +of others. This said Hans, who commenced his military career under +Louis the Bavarian, at the siege of Lindau, and received the honour +of knighthood from that Emperor, for his valiant exploits therein, +followed John, King of Bohemia, into Poland, and shared in the victory +of that monarch at Cracow; not finding himself sufficiently recompensed +for his services, accepted an invitation from Edward III. of England, +who was then besieging Calais, and assisted him in the reduction +<span class="pagenum">128</span> of that place. So far so good; but +not contented with claiming these probable services for his hero, Herr +Schultes, upon the strength of a fragment of an old ballad, quoted by +Hoheneck, makes him the bearer of the English standard at the battle +of Cressy, where, “mirabile dictu,” he took the French king prisoner +with his own hand (at Cressy!), while his knightly companions slew +John, King of Bohemia, and Peter, King of Navarre! At a feast given +on the field, in honour of the victory, Edward III. paid Sir Hans of +Eschelberg the distinguished compliment of seating him between himself +and the captive king, presented him with one hundred marks of silver, +etc. etc. He afterwards returned to Germany, beat the Bohemians, +became the champion of dukes, princes, and bishops; flew back to his +old friend Edward, when again investing Calais, who rewarded him with +more money and honours; returned again to his native land, and, after +thirty years of battle and victory in all parts of Europe, died captain +of the lands upon the Ens. The Professor seems quite heart-broken +that this doughty warrior has never <span class="pagenum">129</span> +been mentioned by any historian, and perfectly unconscious of the way +in which the author of the old ballad, with the license or ignorance +of most of the romantic writers of the middle ages, has mixed up the +two perfectly distinct battles of Cressy and Poictiers, confounding +incidents, leaders, and periods, with the utmost sang froid and +complacency.</p> + +<p>The banks of the Danube, from Aschach to Linz, witnessed the greater +part of those bloody struggles between the two principal sects of a +religion revealed for the beneficent purpose of promoting “peace on +earth, good will towards men,” which convulsed the provinces of Upper +Austria during the seventeenth century; and as the actors in them have +already been mentioned more than once, and will be frequently named +hereafter, I shall venture to give, in as few words as possible, a +sketch of the insurrections of 1626 and 1632, particularly as they +have been merely alluded to by Schiller, in his history of the thirty +years’ war, and Coxe, in his history of the House of Austria, the +two most elaborate works upon that period familiar to the English +<span class="pagenum">130</span> reader,—the deeds of a Gustavus, a +Wallenstein, and a Tilly, having naturally occupied their attention, to +the exclusion of all less generally important circumstances.</p> + +<p>The object which Ferdinand II., Emperor of Germany, had most at +heart, from worldly as well as spiritual motives, was the extirpation +of the reformed religion. The battle of Prague had no sooner decided +the fate of Bohemia, than he tore, with his own hand, the memorable +letter of majesty extorted from Rudolph II. by the states of the +kingdom, in favour of the Protestants, and burnt the seal; and +proceeded not only to the revocation of the privileges granted to +them by his predecessors, which he had <i>not</i> confirmed, but +even of those which had received his own unqualified approbation. He +intimated to all the Protestants in his dominions, that they must +either abandon their religion or their native country,—a bitter and +terrible choice, which excited the most violent commotions amongst his +Austrian subjects, and particularly in the district above the Ens. +Upper Austria had been, for some time, held in pledge by the Elector +of Bavaria, for the indemnification <span class="pagenum">131</span> +promised him by the Emperor for his assistance against the Evangelic +Union; and Count Adam von Herberstorf, who commanded the Bavarian +troops at Linz, had been guilty of unnecessary severities towards +its unfortunate inhabitants. On the 17th of May, 1626, the flame, +which had been long smothering, burst into a sudden and terrible +blaze, in consequence of some excesses committed by a straggling +party of Herberstorf’s soldiery. The Protestant peasantry flew to +arms, and, in two days, took and plundered the towns of Aschach, +Grieskirchen, and Baierbach, and the strong fortress of Velden. On +the 20th of May, Herberstorf marched against the rebels at Baierbach, +with twelve hundred men and some artillery, but was repulsed with +great loss; and, after having two horses killed under him, retreated +in confusion to Linz. The peasantry were now headed by one Stephen +Fadinger, a hatter; and, in about ten days from their first rising, +mustered full seventy thousand men, and possessed a park of thirty +cannon. Within the first eight days, Fadinger had made himself master +of Wels, Kremsmünster, Vöglabruch, <span class="pagenum">132</span> +and Gmünden, and in six more, with the exceptions of Freystadt, Ens, +and Linz, the whole of Upper Austria was overrun, and subdued by the +insurgents. Flushed with victory, Fadinger invested Linz on the 25th +of June, and would most probably have succeeded in reducing it, had he +not received a shot in the thigh from one of Herberstorf’s musqueteers, +in violation of a short armistice agreed upon between the leaders, +June 28th, of which wound he died in the beginning of the following +month<a id="FNank_38" href="#FN_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>. His +successor, Achaz Willinger von Katterhof, a nobleman, had neither his +talent nor his good fortune. Steyer and Freystadt, which had fallen +just before Fadinger’s death, were retaken, fifteen hundred soldiers +dispersed twelve thousand peasants, in the neighbourhood of Ens; +and, in two assaults upon Linz, the Protestants were repulsed with +terrible slaughter. The Austrian commissioner had nearly succeeded in +his charitable endeavours to restore peace, when some fresh cruelty +of <span class="pagenum">133</span> Herberstorf’s, or the soldiers +under his command, kindled anew the torch of discord, and, by another +change of fortune, the peasantry cut to pieces the troops of the Duke +of Holstein-Gotton, at Wesen-Urfar, and successively defeated the +Bavarian general Lindlo, at Geyersberg, Count Preuner, at Haslach, +Herberstorf, near Gmünden, and even the valiant Löbel, at Wels. The +celebrated Pappenheim, however, whose mother Count Herberstorf had +married, retrieved the fortunes of his party, by beating the rebels +in three following battles at Efferding, Gmünden, and Vöglabruch, +but not without considerable difficulty, as he himself acknowledges +in a letter to Herberstorf. “It was,” he writes, “as if my cavalry +had to combat the massive rocks; for these peasants fought not like +men, but like infernal furies!” These reverses decided the fate +of the insurgents; and, though the Imperial commissioner himself +declared that the peasantry had not risen with treasonable intentions +against the Emperor, but were goaded into the act by the severity of +Herberstorf, nearly the whole of the prisoners were hung and <span +class="pagenum">134</span> quartered, or impaled. Achaz Willinger, +as he was a nobleman, was beheaded, and his body delivered to the +Jesuits, who had not been the least important actors in this terrible +tragedy.</p> + +<p>Six years had not elapsed before the continued persecution they +experienced, stirred up the Protestants again to resistance. In 1632 +a second rising of the peasantry on the Ens was accompanied by the +same slaughter, and the same devastation; and in these two contests +alone, which are but trifling episodes in the sanguinary history of the +thirty years war, upwards of fifty thousand subjects of Austria, upon a +moderate calculation, were sacrificed to the childish superstition and +inveterate bigotry of its ruler. “The victory of the White Mountain,” +says Schiller, “put Ferdinand in possession of all his dominions. He +even received them with greater powers than his predecessors; since +their allegiance had been unconditionally pledged to him, and no +letter of majesty now existed to limit his sovereign authority. The +war was ended, if justice was his object; and if magnanimity was to +be united with justice, <span class="pagenum">135</span> so was the +punishment. The fate of Germany was in his hands; the happiness and +misery of millions were dependent on his resolution. Never was a more +important trust placed in a single hand; never was the blindness of +one individual productive of more fatal consequences.” The barbarities +committed on both sides, during these conflicts, were horrible beyond +description. The peasantry had treasured up the recollection of the +cruelties they had suffered at the hands of Herberstorf and his +soldiery, and now repaid them with dreadful interest. Once goaded +over the line of legal authority, their ferocity knew no bounds: nor +did they glut their lust of vengeance upon the soldiery only; those +of their own class and sect who did not immediately gather round +the standard of insurrection, were mutilated or slaughtered without +compunction. On the other hand the prisoners taken by the Catholic +party, were tortured and executed with a horrid ingenuity, that might +have edified a Sioux Indian, or a Spanish inquisitor. Ferdinand +would only remember that the inhabitants of Upper Austria had risen +seven times in thirty-seven <span class="pagenum">136</span> years, +and would make no allowances for the provocations which had driven +a naturally loyal people to desperation. He had been told by his +jesuits, that Protestantism and rebellion were synonymous terms, and +to Ferdinand II. “the voice of a monk was the voice of God.” “Nothing +on earth,” writes his own confessor, “was more sacred in his eyes than +the priesthood. If it could happen, he used to say, that an angel and +a clergyman were to meet him at the same time and place, the clergyman +should receive his first, and the angel his second obeisance<a +id="FNank_39" href="#FN_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a>.” Gracious God! +for what wise purposes are men permitted to make Thy holy name a signal +for butchery, to turn the manna of Thy word into poison, and sow with +the brier and the thorn Thy “ways of pleasantness and Thy paths of +peace.”</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R V. --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">137</span> +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2> +</div> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Efferding. — Ottensheim. — Kloster-Willering. — Linz. — The Platz. +— The Landstrasse. — The Schlossberg. — The Landhaus. — The Theatre. — +The Bridge. — The Pöstlingberg. — View on leaving Linz. — Steyereck. — +The River Traun. — Ebelsberg. — Luftenberg. — Monastery of St. Florian. +— Tillysburg. — Spielberg. — Mauthausen. — Ens. — Origin and History of +the City. — Antiquities discovered in its neighbourhood.</p> +</div> + +<p>From Aschach to Ottensheim is one labyrinth of islands, through +which few boats venture without a pilot, as the current of the river +is continually changing its course, and the deep channel or ditch +(<i>Graben</i>) as the boatmen here call it, through which they have +safely steered a few days before, may upon their second visit be +transformed into a sandbank, or blocked up with trunks and branches +of trees, washed into it by the floods that so frequently occur in +this part of the country. While passing through this archipelago, +the banks of the river are seldom visible, but fortunately there is +nothing upon them to make that circumstance a matter of regret. The +whole country between Aschach and Willering is said to have <span +class="pagenum">138</span> been formerly the basin of one vast lake, +cradled amongst the mountains of Bohemia, Moravia, and Upper Austria, +and the name of Ilmersee, which appears in the thirteenth century, +is quoted in confirmation of the tradition. The White Tower of +Hartkirchen is shortly seen on the right bank. The Catholic minister +of this church, and his cook-maid, were cruelly murdered here, by +the revolted peasantry in 1626. Pupping, celebrated for a dead +saint, and Bergheim for a beautiful brewer<i>ess</i><a id="FNank_40" +href="#FN_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>, whose strong beer and bright +eyes distracted the heads and the hearts of her customers, and might +have sorely tempted the holy St. Otmar himself, had the good man been +living at the time.—Waschpoint, Wörth, and two or three other small +villages on the same bank all passed, were ached Efferding, one of +the oldest places on the Danube. The beautiful Chrimhilt, the heroine +of the Nibelungen-lied, is said, in that poem, to have rested here +upon her journey into Hungary. One of the Schaumbergs bought <span +class="pagenum">139</span> the little town from the Bishop of Passau in +1367, for four thousand florins; and at the extinction of that family, +it came to the Starrhembergs, who built a castle here, still called the +Burg. A rich and valiant family, of the name of Schifer, founded and +liberally endowed an hospital here, as early as 1325, and expressly +commanded that, when there was not a sufficient number of sick and poor +in the town of Efferding to fill the hospital, the governor should send +out “into the highways and hedges, and compel them to come in.”</p> + +<p>On the 1st of September, 1632, the combined peasantry burned the +suburbs, and, on the 25th, defeated the nephew and namesake of the +great and merciless Tilly, but, shortly afterwards, were themselves +defeated by the Imperial troops with great slaughter. Upwards of three +thousand of the unfortunate men, who fell at various periods in this +neighbourhood, lie buried here, as did also their leader, Fadinger, +till Herberstorf had the body disinterred, and carried to Seebach, +where it was flung into a hole beneath the gibbet. The historian Kurz +has preserved the receipt for the +<span class="pagenum">140</span> + +money paid to the ministers of this paltry vengeance. The Bavarians +plundered Efferding in 1704 and 1742, and it suffered considerably +during the last war, from the continual fighting in its neighbourhood. +A dozen small villages are scattered on each bank, between Efferding +and Ottensheim; and the Ihn, the Bösenbach, and the Rodel, wind amongst +them to the Danube. At one of these little places, named Hartheim, +dwelt in 1620 a lady of the family of Aspan, the fame of whose wealth, +according to Hoheneck, determined a Prince of Saxony to make a personal +proposal of marriage. Travelling incognito with only two attendants, +he fell, near Efferding, into the hands of the rebel peasantry, who, +taking the unfortunate suitor for a spy, put him and his domestics +instantly to the sword. At length, we approached the square white +tower, which had been for some time gleaming above the intervening +islands; and as we issued from amongst them, the little market town of +Ottensheim, with its chateau and church, all grouped as with an eye to +effect, upon a gentle eminence projecting into the Danube, gradually +<span class="pagenum">141</span> + glided into view. On a house in the +market-place, is the figure of a child in a cradle, surmounted by a +canopy, and underneath it are the following lines:</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Im 1208 Jahr.<br> + Da Ottensheim noch nicht genannt war,<br> + Ist Kaiser Otto Auserkohren<br> + Alhier in diesen Haus geboren.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>What <i>Emperor</i> Otto, the worthy composer of this distich +intended us to believe was born here in 1208, I cannot pretend to +determine, as the fourth and last emperor of that name was elected as +early as 1197; and that the place was not called Ottensheim before that +period, appears to be another equally unfortunate assertion.</p> + +<p>Leopold II., Duke of Austria, who died in 1194, sold Wechsenberg, +<i>Ottensheim</i>, Grein, and Hartenstein, to Otto von Schleung, “mit +leuth und gut,” (with people and property,) for six hundred pounds +of silver. In the fourteenth century, Heinrich von Neuhaus, Peter +von Sternberg, and Ulrich von Landstein, laid waste this part of the +country to the walls of Ottensheim, and began a feud, which desolated +Upper Austria for upwards of one hundred years. In 1626, a body of the +insurgents, under a leader +<span class="pagenum">142</span> + named +Christoph Zeller, established their head-quarters at Ottensheim; +and the French plundered the town, both in their disastrous retreat +in 1742, and their victorious march to Vienna in 1809. Ottensheim, +however, has recovered from its many disasters, and drives a tolerably +brisk trade in linen, wood and fruit, pit-coal and alum. Between +Ottensheim and Kloster-Willering, which faces it, there is another +rapid race of the river, that forms quite a little sea of billows. +Kloster-Willering lies at the foot of the fir-crowned Kirnberg, +which, rising on the right bank, extends its forest-covered masses +as far as Linz. The Kloster was originally the castle of the Knights +of Willering, descended from the old Counts of Kirnberg. Cholo and +Ulrich of Willering, Barons of Weremberg, established some Cistertian +monks here in 1146. Ulrich went to Palestine, from whence he never +returned. With him his family became extinct, and the whole of his +great possessions fell to the fortunate monks of Willering. They +soon wheedled themselves into the confidence and favour of all the +noblest and richest families of Upper Austria, many of the heads of +which +<span class="pagenum">143</span> + joined their fraternity. +The Archdukes of Austria themselves highly patronized this Kloster, +and freed it from all tolls and taxes; and it shortly became so +powerful, that it assumed a species of jurisdiction over all the other +establishments of its order, upon the banks of the Danube, as far as +Engelhardszell. One of its abbots, in 1544, played it a scurvy trick. +He was a Nürnberger by birth, and named Erasmus Villicus. Scarcely had +he been raised to this enviable dignity, when he took unto himself a +wife, and one fine night disappeared with the lady, and all the jewels +of the Kloster! From that period, a chain of misfortunes seems to have +attended it. It was twice or thrice plundered during the insurrections; +nearly burned to the ground in 1733; suffered in an action between the +French and Austrians, in 1742; and by an inundation in 1787, when the +Danube overflowed its banks to the height of full seven fathoms.</p> + +<p>After washing the walls of Kloster Willering, the Danube enters +another beautiful valley, skirted on one side by the dark forests of +the Kirnberg, and on the +<span class="pagenum">144</span> + other by +groves of a lighter green, interspersed with cottages and gardens, over +which, in the distance, rise the spires of Pöstlingberg, announcing +to the traveller the vicinity of Linz. On the brink of each bank runs +a carriage-road, the one on the right being the high post-road to +Regensburg and Nürnberg, and that on the left leading to Ottensheim, +Grammetstetten, and Landshag. This beautiful valley is the favourite +promenade of the Linzers, who flock on a fine summer afternoon through +the woods on the right bank, to a hunting lodge in the Kirnbergerwald, +near which stand the ruins of Helfenberg, the cradle of the old Counts +of Kirnberg; and in the winter go in sledges to Willering, and the +neighbouring places, to drink wine, beer, and coffee, smoke, knit, and +hear music.</p> + +<p>Having rounded the point of land overlooked by the lofty +Pöstlingberg,—the city of Linz,—the capital of Upper Austria,—with +its long wooden bridge, gradually makes its appearance. Beneath the +rocks on the right bank, stands a long line of houses and chapels, +some romantically situated in little clefts of the rocks, and <span +class="pagenum">145</span> surrounded by firs and pines. This place +is called the Calvarienberg (Mount Calvary), and is the scene of +numberless processions and religious ceremonies of the Catholic +inhabitants of Linz.</p> + +<p>Linz is a handsome, clean, and cheerful looking city, and the +inhabitants may be said to partake the good qualities of their +town. The Linzer women are famed for beauty, if we may believe +the guide-books, and who would dare to doubt them upon such a +subject?—honestly, however, I cannot say I remarked any extraordinary +difference between the lasses of Linz, and their Bavarian neighbours. +The young females of the lower and middling classes, throughout the +south of Germany, are in general plump, good-humoured looking girls, +with florid complexions, large laughing blue eyes, snub noses, and +light hair. Amongst the nobility and gentry, indeed, are some of the +loveliest creatures I ever saw, and more resembling our own sweet +countrywomen than the females of any other nation in Europe. But, as +honest Cowley says:</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + —“Beauty, thou wild fantastic ape,<br> + Who dost in every country change thy shape:<br> + Here black, there brown, here tawny, and there white,<br> + Thou flatterer, who comply’st with every sight:<br> + —Who hast no certain what nor where;<br> + But vary’st still, and dost thyself declare<br> + Inconstant as thy she-professors are!—” + </p> +</div> + +<p>Who shall define thee?—</p> + +<p>Amongst the men a very visible alteration in person had taken place, +even before we arrived at Linz. There appeared to me considerably +more of the Greek and Italian than the German cast of feature in the +Austrian countenance. Long aquiline noses, dark eyes and swarthy +complexions were new objects to me in German faces. Civility, kindness, +and good humour, however, reigned in the hearts and manners of both +sexes; and after the gloomy pictures I have seen so frequently drawn +in England, of the degraded and miserable condition of the people of +Austria, it was curious enough to mark the content and gaiety that, +at least, appeared to pervade every class of his Imperial Majesty’s +subjects. Having tasted nothing since our single cup of coffee at +Aschach, we hastened to the Golden Lion, the best inn we saw upon the +Platz, and made a capital breakfast, in an apartment on the first +floor, fitted up precisely +<span class="pagenum">147</span> + like an +English coffee-room, the windows commanding a good view of the Platz, +which (it being a market morning) presented a lively and interesting +appearance. It is a fine, spacious, oblong square, between eight and +nine hundred feet in length, and upwards of three hundred broad<a +id="FNank_41" href="#FN_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>, surrounded on +three sides by handsome houses built of freestone, (some of these five +stories high,) and ornamented with a twisted column, surmounted by a +gilt glory, erected by the Emperor Charles VI., in 1713, in memory +of a great plague. South of this column, the square was filled with +market-people and purchasers. The ground was covered with their large +flat baskets, containing all kinds of provisions. By the side of each +stood the vendor, in his or her provincial costume; and amongst the +motley crowd moved the mistresses and maidens of Linz, the former +dressed “à la Française,” with the exception of short sleeves, and +long gloves tied above the +<span class="pagenum">148</span> + elbow, a +fashion peculiar to Germany; and the latter in their little jackets, +coloured petticoats, and splendid caps of gold brocade, entitled +“Linzer hauben,” modelled, one would suppose, from the gorgeous crest +of a Chinese or golden pheasant. Exactly facing our windows was a +large house, where, over the <i>porte cochère</i>, the Austrian +Eagle (that “rara avis in terris, nigroque simillima <i>cygno</i>” +<i>with two necks</i>) sprawled upon a yellow board, all legs and +wings, like a bird of prey on a barn door, and under it paraded a +tall mustachoed Austrian grenadier sentinel, in white and black +uniform, black gaiters, and portentous bear-skin cap, while half a +dozen soldiers of other regiments lounged about the gateway of the +Kaiserlich,—Königlich,—something or other, that I could not exactly +make out, and added considerably to the picturesque effect of the whole +scene.</p> + +<p>Breakfast over, we repaired to the <i>polizey</i>, to reclaim +our passports, exchanged on landing for a printed paper containing, +in German, French, and Italian, an injunction, under certain pains +and penalties, to present yourself to the police, within <span +class="pagenum">149</span> twenty-four hours after your arrival; those +secured, we rambled over the town, which has nothing particularly +worth notice in the way of buildings. There is a tolerably handsome +church near the post-office, and polizey-direction; in a long airy +street, (the landstrasse) that runs right out into the country; for, +unlike continental towns in general, Linz has no gloomy gateways or +frowning barriers; a light turnpike a little way out of the town on the +high-road, painted, as they all are in Germany, with the colours of the +empire or kingdom, and resembling, exceedingly, the now nearly exploded +barber’s pole, alone indicates the spot where the land-traveller +must exhibit his passport and pay the little weg-geld or road-toll, +to an officer stationed for that purpose at a neighbouring cottage. +A little arch, under which you pass into the Platz from the bank of +the Danube, is dignified by the name of the Wasser-thor; and you are +directed to the Haupt-thor, the Schmidt-thor, and the Land-haus-thor, +as you might in London be directed to Ludgate, or to Holborn-bars, +but the Thor itself has long vanished. Riesbeck, who travelled <span +class="pagenum">150</span> through Germany in 1780, speaking of Linz, +says, “the city is open on all sides, and the town and country seem +so united, that if my spirit of knight errantry would allow it, I +would pitch my tent, and lay my travelling staff up, here;” and gives +honourable testimony to “the industry, happiness, and prosperity of +the eleven thousand inhabitants who dwell in it.” If the late wars +have occasioned any decrease of its prosperity, they have either not +had that effect upon its population, or the inhabitants have been +singularly fortunate in repairing damages, since the peace. Their +number is now, by two different accounts, estimated at sixteen, and +twenty thousand. From the Schlossberg, on the west of the city, you +have a fine view over the Danube and the surrounding country. Upon +this rock anciently stood the citadel of Linz, in which Richard +Cœur de Lion, it is said, was feasted as he returned from his long +Austrian captivity. The Archduke frequently resided here, and Rodolph +II. considerably enlarged it. The Emperor Ferdinand I. still further +enlarged and beautified it. It was afterwards converted into barracks, +<span class="pagenum">151</span> + and, finally, into an hospital, +which was burned down in 1800. Upon its site a commodious workhouse +has been erected; and the poor now eat their crumbs upon the spot +where formerly stood “the rich man’s table.” There are many charitable +establishments<a id="FNank_42" href="#FN_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> +and public schools in Linz, as well for Catholics as Protestants, and +some considerable manufactories, one of which (the Imperial and Royal +Woollen Cloth Manufactory) is a little town in itself.</p> + +<p>The Landhaus, the Guildhall of Linz, (or rather, the Government +House of Upper Austria, where the president and eight counsellors +appointed for the administration of justice in the country above the +Ens, hold their sessions,) stands on the promenade, and was originally +a Franciscan convent, built, in 1287, by Eberhard von Walsee. From a +window of this building, the +<span class="pagenum">152</span> + shot was +fired that mortally wounded the rebel captain, Stephen Fadinger. Near +the Landhaus is the new theatre. The old one was destroyed by the fire +in 1800, which reduced to ashes the greater part of this quarter of the +town. The erection of the present building cost ninety-six thousand +florins. Under the same roof, is the Redouten-Saal, or Assembly Room +for masquerades, balls, etc.</p> + +<p>The old chroniclers are not agreed as to the origin and foundation +of Linz. Lazius would trace it to the Roman <i>Lentium</i>, or +<i>Lentia</i>, destroyed by the Huns. Bruschius, in his rhyming +panegyric, says,</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Hanc quis condidit primus, quo tempore et anno,<br> + Nominis aut hujus quæ sit origo vetus;<br> + Vix poterit dici: siquidem Germania fustos<br> + Non tantâ scripsit religione suos,<br> + Quanta vel Græci fecerunt laude, vel ipsi<br> + Ausonii proceres Romuleique patres.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>Under Louis the Child, Linz was known as a toll-place on the Danube, +and the seat of the Counts of Kirnberg. The last of this family sold, +according to Lazius, the whole of his dominions to the Markgraves +of Austria. When the Emperor Frederick II., “the pupil, the enemy, +and the victim of the +<span class="pagenum">153</span> + church,” was +excommunicated by Pope Gregory IX. the second time, in 1236, Linz was +besieged by the powers of the King of Bohemia, the Duke of Bavaria, +the Patriarch of Aquileia, and the Bishops of Bamberg, Freysingen, and +Passau. Frederick, however, assisted only by Albert, Count of Pogen, +relieved the good city, and took one of the church militant, the +Bishop of Passau, prisoner. During the reign of Rodolph of Hapsburg, +Linz was plundered by Henry, Duke of Bavaria; and, in 1335, the +Emperor Louis the Bavarian here invested the Dukes of Austria with +Carinthia and the Tyrol, and entered into an offensive and defensive +alliance, to secure the succession of those countries against the +pretensions of the King of Bohemia and his heirs<a id="FNank_43" +href="#FN_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>. In 1481, the whole city was +destroyed by fire, with the exception of the castle and one street. +The Emperor Frederick III. caused it to be rebuilt and considerably +enlarged, and declared it, in 1490, the capital of Upper <span +class="pagenum">154</span> Austria. He bought the village of Urfar, +till then only inhabited by fishermen, and, flinging a wooden bridge +over the Danube to it from Linz, it, in a short time, became a kind of +suburb to the city. On the 19th of August, 1493, Linz lost its imperial +benefactor. Frederick died in this city, of which he may almost be +called the founder, at the advanced age of seventy-eight, and after a +reign of fifty-three years, the longest of any emperor since the days +of Augustus. He had been afflicted with a cancerous ulcer in his leg. +As the only means of relief, he submitted to amputation; but, from the +unskilfulness of the surgeon, and the vitiated state of his blood, a +second amputation was necessary. He bore these painful operations with +extreme fortitude, and gave a singular proof of his characteristic +phlegm. Taking the severed limb in his hand, he said to those who were +present, “What difference is there between an emperor and a peasant? or +rather, is not a sound peasant better than a sick emperor? Yet I hope +to enjoy the greatest good which can happen to man: a happy exit from +this transitory life.” He seemed +<span class="pagenum">155</span> + to +be in a fair state of recovery, but his rigid observation of a fast, +during which, in opposition to his medical attendants, he would take +nothing but melons and water, brought on a dysentery, which, in his +debilitated condition, became fatal. I agree with Schultes in thinking +that an equestrian statue of this benefactor of Linz would be a more +handsome and appropriate ornament for its principal square, than the +column before mentioned. In 1521-2, the Archduke Ferdinand, afterwards +emperor and founder of the German branch of the House of Austria, +solemnized, at Linz, his nuptials with Anne, Princess of Hungary +and Bohemia. Thrice, during the remainder of that century, was Linz +visited with the awful scourge of pestilence. In 1620, the whole of +Upper Austria was pledged to Bavaria; and, during the insurrections as +already related, Linz was invested by the peasants under Fadinger, and +its suburbs were reduced to ashes. Keppler, the famous astronomer, who +at that time resided in them, lost some valuable MSS. in the flames. +Linz was thrice stormed during those disturbances. In 1741, Linz was +<span class="pagenum">156</span> + taken possession of by the allied +French and Bavarian army, under Marshal Bellisle and the Elector, and +in the three unsuccessful struggles of Austria against Napoleon in +1800, 1805, and 1809, it suffered, in common with other towns upon the +Danube, the various <i>mis</i>fortunes of war.</p> + +<p>The wooden bridge across the Danube, I have already said, was +first built in 1490, but there is mention made of a bridge as early +as 1106. It is conjectured, however, that it must have been a bridge +of boats only, as the first regular bridge across to Urfar was +certainly that thrown over by Ferdinand<a id="FNank_44" href="#FN_44" +class="fnanchor">[44]</a>. A stroll across this bridge, which is +upwards of one thousand feet in length, through the little town of +Urfar, (for though it merely looks like the suburb of Linz, it has +risen to the dignity of a <i>markt</i><a id="FNank_45" href="#FN_45" +class="fnanchor">[45]</a>,) and up the steep Pöstlingberg, to the +church and observatory on its summit, would, no doubt, repay any one +for the +<span class="pagenum">157</span> + trouble if he could afford +the time, as far as an extensive and beautiful view goes; but, as my +object was to travel through Austria, and not merely look over it, +as a certain respectable personage is said “to look over Lincoln,” +nothing but a view being to be gained by it, I declined the invitation; +and having revictualled our bark, for we always dined on board, about +twelve o’clock, we</p> + +<p class="center">“All got under weigh,<br> And bude a long +adieu to”— </p> + +<p>the capital of Upper Austria.</p> + +<p>The retrospective view, after we had left Linz about a quarter of +a mile behind us, was exceedingly beautiful, as beautiful, perhaps, +as the view on leaving Passau, but of quite a different character. +The city lay on our left, the beach before it crowded with people, +and piled with merchandise,—a regiment of infantry marching out of +the Wasser-thor, drums beating and colours flying; the bridge, alive +with passengers, stretched across the gulf, from whence the Danube +rushed panting out, and then spread itself, right and left, like a +calm bright lake before us. In front, gradually rising from <span +class="pagenum">158</span> the water’s edge, and spotted with the white +straggling buildings of the little town of Urfar, towered the majestic +Pöstlingberg, cultivated to its summit, and crowned by its church and +observatory. More to the right arose the Pfenningberg, equally lofty, +and similarly chequered with corn and meadow land. Between them, lay +a soft green valley, in the bosom of which nestled the old village +of Magdalena, the spire of its ancient church just peeping above the +trees. A cloudless deep blue sky formed the back ground of this rich +and laughing picture, that gladdened the heart, and filled it “almost +to overflowing” with love and gratitude to that ineffable spirit, the +Great Architect and</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="indent2">“Author of this Universe,</span><br> + And all this good to man! For whose well-being,<br> + So amply, and with hands so liberal,<br> + He hath provided all things.”<br> + </p> +</div> + +<p>Looking forward on our course, a crowd of little villages appeared +on the left bank of the river, which again meandered amongst woody +islands, and received, just below a small hamlet called Furth, the tiny +stream of the Kitzelbach. Farther on, +<span class="pagenum">159</span> + +upon the same bank, rose the half burned chateau of Steyereck, upon +a small hill, in front of the forest-covered mountains which again +line that side of the river. The little market-town of Steyereck is +hidden behind the poplars of an island close to the shore. Steyereck +was formerly a place of some commercial importance<a id="FNank_46" +href="#FN_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>, but the Danube has receded of +late years considerably from its walls; and the large sand-banks it +has left behind it, prevents the lading or unlading of vessels, which +now seek some more fortunate town. A little trouble and expense would, +it appears, remove the sand, and restore the Danube to its original +channel, thereby not only greatly benefiting Steyereck, but all the +surrounding country, which is now, from the new course of the river, +subjected to continual inundations, disasters that this work would +greatly diminish in number, if not entirely prevent. No measures have +as yet, however, been taken to effect this desirable purpose. The +worthy Austrian would be considerably +<span class="pagenum">160</span> + +improved, could a little of the persevering industry of the Hollander +be infused into his composition. Steyereck belonged originally to the +monks of Kremsmünster, but, as early as 1136, it had fallen into the +power of a family named Khuenringe, who lorded it over the greater part +of the Nordwaldes. Albert, of Khuenringe, sold the Castle of Steyereck, +in 1280, to Ulrich von Kapell, surnamed “The Long,” who, in the famous +battle of Marchfield, between the Emperor Rudolph I. and Ottocar, King +of Bohemia, rescued the valiant founder of the House of Hapsburg from a +gigantic Thuringian knight, named Valens, who had unhorsed and wounded +him, and, by his courage and exertions, decided the fortune of the +day.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Terra Rudolphus hostium cinctus globo<br> + Multorum, et unus jam pedes vim sustinet.<br> + Ulricus alis advolans Capellides,<br> + Ceu sæva raptis ursa pro catulis nova<br> + Irrumpit acie, ferro iter per inimicos secat,<br> + Alio reservat Cæsarem statuens equo, etc.”<br> + <span class="smcap right">Calaminus in Rudolpho Ottocaro.</span> + </p> +</div> + +<p>It remained in the family of the Kapellers till the extinction +of the male branch in 1409, when the last daughter of that <span +class="pagenum">161</span> house married Heinrich von Lichtenstein. In +1569, one of the Lichtensteins sold Steyereck to Christopher Jörger, +of Tolleth; and, in 1635, the town and castle were given as a dower +with Elizabeth Jörger, to David Ungnad, Count of Weissenwolf, who built +the present chateau. In 1770, the lightning fired the building, and a +valuable library and collection of pictures were utterly consumed.</p> + +<p>Nearly facing Steyereck, is the mouth of the green and beautiful +river Traun, which, rising out of the Grundel-See in the romantic +Steyermark, flows through the lakes of Hallstädter and Gmünden, and +swelled by the Ager, the Alben, and the Krems, hurries, foaming under +the bridge of Ebelsberg, into the Danube. Ebelsberg, or Ebersberg, +which lies on the right bank of the Traun, and is visible from the +Danube, is a place of great antiquity<a id="FNank_47" href="#FN_47" +class="fnanchor">[47]</a>, and the scene of a desperate battle between +the +<span class="pagenum">162</span> + French and the Austrians, fought +on the 3d of May, 1809. General Claparede’s division stormed Ebelsberg +from the bridge across the Traun, under a tremendous fire of artillery +directed against the bridge, by the Austrian Field-Marshal Hiller. +Claparede succeeded in carrying the place, but with dreadful slaughter. +Another column of French, who had passed the river higher up, upon +entering the town, revenged the death of their comrades most fearfully +upon the Viennese volunteers who had so bravely defended it, three +hundred of whom were burned alive in the castle, the town having taken +fire during the assault, and the rest cut to pieces, From twelve to +sixteen thousand men fell in this terrible conflict; and the banks of +the Traun, from Ebelsberg to the Danube, were literally covered with +slain<a id="FNank_48" href="#FN_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>.</p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">163</span> +The Emperor Arnulph gave Ebelsberg, +then called Eporesburg, to the monks of Kremsmünster, A.D. 893, +together with the confiscated property of a Count Engelschalk, +who carried off the Emperor’s natural daughter. Arnulph feigned +forgiveness, +<span class="pagenum">164</span> + and luring the Count +back from Zwentibold, whither he had fled with the Princess, delivered +him over to the diet at Ratisbon, who condemned him to lose his eyes, +and his nephew Wilhelm, his head. In the year 900, Count Sighard (whose +name is handed down to the modern traveller, by the little post town of +Sighardskirchen, near Vienna) built a castle at Ebelsberg, which was +destroyed on the defeat of the Germans by the Hungarians in 993. A new +castle was built shortly afterwards on the same spot, and destroyed by +Frederick of Austria in 1242, in consequence of the excesses committed +by Rudiger, Bishop of Passau, who, in conjunction with the Lords of +a castle at Obernberg on the Inn, kept the whole intervening country +in a state of terror. It was again rebuilt, and Rodolph of Hapsburg +defeated here one hundred and twenty knights, previous to his battle +with Ottocar. In 1586, this third castle was destroyed by fire. Stephen +Fadinger established his head-quarters here in 1626, and arrested +the Imperial Commissioners. In the August of that year the peasants +were defeated at Ebelsberg, with the loss of two thousand men. </p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">165</span> +Below Steyereck, the left bank alone +is hilly; the right resumes the flat, sedgy appearance it presented +from Regensburg to Straubing. Luftenberg, an old place upon the left +bank, commanding a fine view over the opposite country, is principally +remarkable as the spot where the fanatical visionary Laimbauer held +forth in 1635-36. He entrenched himself, with the wretched enthusiasts +who followed him, in the church of Frankenberg, and after wounding and +killing many of the officers sent to apprehend him, from its windows, +left his disciples to be burnt alive. He was, however, taken in his +attempt to escape the flames, and executed at Linz. The monastery of +St. Florian now appeared on our right, and shortly afterwards the +chateau called Tilly’s Burg. St. Florian, to whose honour the monastery +was erected, suffered martyrdom A.D. 303, at Lorch on the Ens, where, +by order of a commander named Aquilinus, he was thrown from the bridge +into the river, with a stone round his neck. His spirit appeared to +a matron, and directed her where to find and where to bury his body; +<span class="pagenum">166</span> + and over his grave, as the story +runs, an altar was first erected, then a church, and lastly a kloster. +Stephen Fadinger had his head-quarters here in 1626.</p> + +<p>Tilly’s Burg is a large square building with four towers, and +said to contain as many windows as there are days in the year, a +peculiarity attributed to at least a dozen places in England, and I +believe generally reported of every mansion with more windows than +one would take the trouble to count. On the spot where this chateau +now stands, once arose the tower of the castle of Volkerstorf, the +seat of one of the most ancient and powerful families in Austria. Some +warriors of that name fought at Constanz as early as 948. In 1146 a +Volkerstorf accompanied Duke Leopold to the tournament at Zurich. +Ortolph von Volkerstorf stabbed Henrich Wittigo, secretary to the +Emperor Frederick II., in the monastery of St. Florian, for which +deed he and his brother were banished, their property confiscated, +and their castle destroyed. In the Diet of Augsburg, A.D. 1275, +Bernhard von Volkerstorf spoke vehemently against Ottocar, <span +class="pagenum">167</span> King of Bohemia, whom he openly accused of +attempting to poison his own wife, and of tyrannising over Austria. +Under the protection of the House of Hapsburg, the Volkerstorfs +returned to their native country, and rebuilt their castle in 1331. In +1558 it suffered materially by fire, and the last of the family having +embraced the Lutheran faith, the whole of his property was confiscated +in 1620, and the castle given, three years afterwards, by the Emperor +Ferdinand, to the famous Count Tserclas von Tilly<a id="FNank_49" +href="#FN_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>. In 1630-32, he built <span +class="pagenum">168</span> the present chateau, on the site of the old +castle, and in the appellation of Tilly’s Burg buried all recollection +of the ancient Lords of Volkerstorf, whose once dreaded name is now +only known to the peasant of Austria, as that of a little insignificant +village in the neighbourhood of Ens. The last female of Tilly’s family, +the Countess Montfort, sold the Burg in 1730, to the Bavarian Baron von +Weichs.</p> + +<p>Near Tilly’s Burg is the old village of Kronau, known as early as +the times of Thassillo, Duke of Bavaria, by the name of Kranesdorf, +and on the left bank lie Hof-im-Schlag, Himberg, Auwinden, St. +Georgen, and two or three other small places, remarkable only for +their great antiquity. To the north of St. Georgen lies <span +class="pagenum">169</span> Frankenstein, where the miserable followers +of Laimbauer met their horrible fate.</p> + +<p>We now approached the old square tower of Spielberg, which, together +with the steeples of the city of Ens, we had for some time seen in +the distance, backed by the glittering and rugged line of the Styrian +Alps. The ruin of Spielberg stands upon an Island near the right bank +of the Danube, and just in the angle formed by the stream, which, +having stretched away boldly to the south-east, here turns sharply off +to the north, and washes the walls of the market town of Mauthausen, +which is seen through a vista of islands at the extremity of a distant +point of land. Spielberg is admirably situated for a Raub-schloss, +which was of course its original character. Otto and Eckbert von +Spielberg were slain in Frederick Barbarossa’s Italian expedition, +A.D. 1156, and one Dittmar von Spielberg was present at the siege of +Milan in 1158. In 1328, the family of Spielberg became extinct, the +last of that name, Eberhard, having previously sold the city and castle +of Ens to the Emperor Rudolph I., for six hundred marks. Reinprecht +von Walsee possessed +<span class="pagenum">170</span> + Spielberg in +1329, and after passing through several hands, it finally formed part +of the dower brought by the Countess of Weissenwolf to her husband +in 1635. There is a small fall of the river here, which was at one +time considered dangerous by the timid boatmen on the Danube, and +has been confounded by some writers with the celebrated Strudel, +probably from one of the names given to it by the schiffers, viz. Der +Saurüssel<a id="FNank_50" href="#FN_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>. +It is also called by some, the Neubruch: small boats seldom venture +through it, though a slight tossing would, I should imagine, be the +only consequence. My companion and I often laughed, to think how a +smart English six-oared cutter would astonish the natives here, who +are certainly the clumsiest and most fearful navigators in Europe. +Mauthausen is said by the boatmen to be half of Aschach, which, carried +away by an inundation of the Danube, floated with the current down to +this spot,—a strange tradition, which it is supposed has arisen from +a fancied resemblance between the two towns. Howsoever it came, it +stands in a +<span class="pagenum">171</span> + very pleasant situation, +directly opposite to the mouth of the Ens, and looking up that river +upon the city of Ens, and the far-distant peaks and glaciers of the +Styrian Alps. There was a bridge of boats here in 1809, but it was +destroyed by the Bavarians. The neighbouring tower of Pragstein was +occupied by the French in 1742. Mauthausen suffered severely in the war +between Rudolph and Matthias, and in the insurrections during the reign +of Ferdinand. There is a woollen-stocking and a leather manufactory +here, a dye-house of some celebrity, and a salt-market, from whence the +greater part of Bohemia is supplied.</p> + +<p>The city of Ens is supposed to have been originally constructed +out of the ruins of the Roman Lorch, (indifferently called Laureacum, +Lavoriacum, Blaboriacum, Loriacte,) the station of the second Italian +legion, upon the site of which is still a little village of the name. +Ammianus Marcellinus is the oldest historian who makes mention of +Laureacum. Bruschius, Hansiz, and Aventine assert, that Lorch was +destroyed by Attila, on his +<span class="pagenum">172</span> + march +to Gaul; but the biographer of St. Severin states, that two years +after the passage of Attila, that holy person arrived at Lorch from +the neighbourhood of Vienna, and found it flourishing, and a Christian +priest established therein. The Huns might have taken the left bank +of the Danube, particularly as it was their nearest road. From an +inscription on the walls of Ens, it would appear that two of the holy +Evangelists themselves took the city under their especial protection, +and converted the people to Christianity<a id="FNank_51" href="#FN_51" +class="fnanchor">[51]</a>.</p> + +<p>St. Peter himself is also said to have preached the gospel here +in the year 49. In 454, Lorch is reported to have been preserved +by the prayers of St. Severin, but was afterwards destroyed by the +Barbarians, according to his own prediction in 737, when Bibilo, +bishop of Lorch, fled with his monks to Passau, as I have <span +class="pagenum">173</span> already mentioned in my notice of that city. +The authentic history of Ens, however, commences during the reign of +Charlemagne, when that Emperor, aware of the importance of such a +situation, pitched his tents at the mouth of the Ens, which formed at +that time the line of demarcation between Bavaria and the lands of the +Avars or Huns of Pannonia, that people having, during the sixth and +seventh centuries, “spread their permanent dominion from the foot of +the Alps to the sea-coast of the Euxine <a id="FNank_52" href="#FN_52" +class="fnanchor">[52]</a>.” Here, on the 5th of September, 791, he +encamped, and, after fasting and praying for three days, proceeded +on his expedition. The troops on the left bank of the Danube were +commanded by the Counts Thederich and Meginfried; those on the right by +the Emperor in person; and between the two hosts upon the river floated +a third body, with provisions and necessaries for the whole army. In +fifty-two days he penetrated +<span class="pagenum">174</span> + to the +river Rab, destroying the rings or wooden fortifications of the Avars, +the first of which he found upon the Riederberge, by Tuln; and would +have carried his victorious arms still farther, had not a contagious +disorder killed nearly all his horses. In 805, we still hear of Lorch, +which, under the names of Lorahha and Loracha, is designated as a villa +regia, and mention is made of its market-place and of an imperial +judge, one Warner or Warnhar. After the death of Arnulph the Bastard, +the Hungarians burst into the country, and devastated it beyond the +Ens. The Bavarians rallied, and beat them back; and Leopold, then +Grenz-graf, or Count of the frontier, in the year 900, slew upwards +of 3000 of them on the left bank of the Danube. In the same year, as +a stronger check to their inroads, he erected on the Ens a strong +fortress<a id="FNank_53" href="#FN_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> which +he called Ensburg (Anasiburgum.) Buildings gradually rose around it; +and in proportion as the old Roman city of Laureacum declined, its +rival prospered, till their names +<span class="pagenum">175</span> + +became confounded, and that of the new city predominating, a small +village, probably on the actual site of the Roman town, alone retains +the ancient appellation of Lorch. Richar, bishop of Passau, persuaded +Louis the Child, that the fortress of Ensburg stood upon ground +belonging to the monastery of St. Florian, and it was consequently +ceded by the sovereign to that establishment. The Hungarians snatched +it from its holy possessors in 907, when they defeated Louis, and slew +the valiant markgraf Leopold, brother-in-law to Carloman, the bishops +of Salzburg, Freysing, and Seben, three abbots, and nineteen counts. +Leopold’s son, Arnulf, defeated the Barbarians on the Inn, in 912, and +Conrad I. bribed them back over the frontiers in 918. After Arnulf’s +death, the Barbarians again invaded Bavaria, but were ultimately, +at the close of the tenth century, driven out of the country by the +Markgraves, Leopold the Babenberger, and Burkhard, who carried the +war into the enemy’s territories as far as Krems and Mölk. In a deed +of the time of Otho II., Ensburg is still spoken of as distinct from +<span class="pagenum">176</span> + Lorch or Lorach, and mention is made +in the same deed of the church of St. Laurentius, situated without +the walls of Lorch. Now there is a church of St. Laurence standing to +this day, within ten minutes’ walk of the city of Ens; and though it +was built as late as the time of Maximilian I., it is not improbable +that it stands upon the site of the ancient edifice <a id="FNank_54" +href="#FN_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>. In the important deeds by +which Ottocar VI. made over the steyermark to Leopold of Austria, Ens +is called by one party a markt, and by the other a village; and it is +asserted by some writers that Ens was first made a fortified town by +Leopold, who built its walls with the ransom of Richard Cœur de Lion!<a +id="FNank_55" href="#FN_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> However this +may be, and if true, it is a very +<span class="pagenum">177</span> + +interesting circumstance, Ens certainly dates its existence as a city +from somewhere about this period, as, at the close of the twelfth +century, the Enser-fair was almost as much celebrated in Germany as +that of Leipzig is at present. Rudolph of Hapsburg received the keys +of Ens from the hands of a lord of Sumerau, and afterwards bought the +city, for six hundred marks, of Eberhard von Spielberg.</p> + +<p>Duke Albert the Lame concluded here, in 1336, the peace with John, +king of Bohemia, which gave Carinthia to Austria, and the Tyrol to +Charles, the son of that monarch, afterwards Charles IV. The victorious +army of Matthias Corvinus, king of Hungary, penetrated as far as Ens +during the war with the Emperor Frederick III., and in 1532, the Turks, +who had burst into Hungary and Austria, headed by the Sultan himself, +pushed forward some troops to the walls of this city, between whom +and the burghers a desperate conflict took place upon the bridge. In +the insurrections of 1624, Stephen Fadinger summoned the town, and +another rebel-chief, named +<span class="pagenum">178</span> + Wurm, +cannonaded it, but it stood out against both till relieved by Colonel +Löbel, who defeated the peasants, and burned their camp. In 1683, while +Cara Mustapha lay before Vienna, several flying parties of the Turks +scoured the country around Ens, and penetrated nearly to Linz. On the +4th of May, 1809, Napoleon had his headquarters here, and received +a deputation from the townspeople of Mauthausen, which place he had +threatened with bombardment.</p> + +<p>In the centre of the Platz stands a tall bell or clock tower built +by Maximilian I. Some years ago a rib-bone was shown in it as that of +a giant. It had most probably formed part of the stock in trade of +an elephant, and was thought sufficiently curious to be removed to +Cuvier’s museum in Paris. Many Roman antiquities have been discovered +in Ens and its vicinity; some gold coins of the Emperor Probus, several +marble busts, and inscribed stones. Some of the latter are still to be +seen in the old Burg of Enseck.</p> + +<p>Two large stone coffins without any <span +class="pagenum">179</span> inscription were dug out of the Aichberg, a +short distance from the town, in 1808. Some monumental busts were also +found, but they had been cut out of very bad sandstone, and were much +injured by time.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R VI. --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">180</span> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2> +</div> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Nieder-Walsee — Castles of Clam and Kreuzen — Ardagger — Grein — The +Strudel and the Wirbel — Mistakes of various Authors concerning them — St. +Nikola — Sarblingstein — Freystein — Hirschau — The Isper — Bösenbeug — Story of +Bishop Bruno and the Lady Richlita — Ips — Gottsdorf.</p> +</div> + +<p>After washing the walls of Ens, the river from which it takes its +name hurries through several channels, into the Danube. In the time of +Charlemagne it divided Bavaria from the lands of the Avars or Huns of +Pannonia.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + —“Ad fluvium venit Anasum<br> + Qui medius Bajvarios sejunxit et Hunnos.”<br> + <span class="right">Saxo Poeta. T. II. p. 155.</span> + </p> +</div> + +<p>From the point of its confluence with the Danube, the latter is +again studded with islands, sandbanks and sunken rocks as far as +Nieder-Walsee; and the history of the small market towns and villages +upon its flat banks, is as uninteresting as their appearance. On the +left, below the village of Nieder-Sebing, the little river Aust, +formerly the boundary between the Slavi and the Bohemians, flows +round an island, formed in its mouth, into the Danube; and <span +class="pagenum">181</span> on the right, above the rippling Erla-bach, +stands Erla-Kloster, a convent founded by Otto of Machland in the tenth +century, and suppressed by the Emperor Joseph II. Our old steersman +had been for some time complaining of illness, and now lay groaning +upon some straw, having given up the paddle, by which the boat was +steered, to the care of a lad who had joined us at Linz in the place +of his son, an exchange which we had protested against at the time, as +it was arranged at Ratisbon, that the same people should row us the +whole way to Vienna, and the father and son were evidently the only +persons who knew anything about the navigation of the river. The old +man growing apparently worse every moment, we looked rather anxiously +about for a place where we could land, and obtain some assistance, but +none presented itself before our arrival, in sight of Nieder-Walsee; +and therefore, although a mere group of huts, above which arose the +old wall and curious tower of the Schloss, promised little in the way +of accommodation, we determined to land there, and see what could be +done to set our +<span class="pagenum">182</span> + poor pilot on his +legs again. Nieder-Walsee stands perched upon a rocky point of land, +on the right bank of the Danube, and behind it the mountains again +rear their forest-clothed heads. Upon the summit of one of the nearest +stands Strengberg, a post station, through which the high road runs to +Vienna, and from whence we enjoyed a splendid view of the Danube on our +return by land to Linz. The castle of Nieder-Walsee was built by the +same Eberhard, who erected Ober-Walsee on the Klausberg near Aschach, +and stands on the site of the old castle of Sumerau, After the death of +Reinprecht von Walsee in 1483, the castle was bought and sold, pledged +and redeemed, by various families, till, in the Seven Years’ war, it +became the property of the famous Field-marshal Daun, from one of whose +descendants it was bought in 1810, by Count Wimpfer. A strong current +runs round the point, and few boats, except those belonging to the +inhabitants, approach the shore at this place, as there is considerable +difficulty in getting back into the main stream, out of which one +is aground every two minutes +<span class="pagenum">183</span> + upon +the gravelly shoals that rise in all directions in this part of the +Danube, and can only be avoided by keeping in the middle of what the +boatmen call the <i>Graben</i> (the trench or channel) of the river. +Not aware, however, of this circumstance, and anxious to alleviate the +sufferings of the old steersman, we directed his locum tenens to run +into the shore, a business that was speedily effected, for we had no +sooner come within the influence of the current, than round went the +head of the boat, and in a few seconds we were brushing the bushes +that hung over the steep bank, and hurried along it far beyond the +proper landing-place. Two unfortunate discoveries were made together. +The offer of a dram to the steersman cleared up the mystery of his +malady. He had had a few too many already, and had laid down in the +boat for the most excellent of all reasons, his inability to stand; +our second discovery was equally annoying. We had got out of the +stream, and the only person who was capable of getting us cleverly +back into it was hors de combat. The rest of the crew knew as little +about the matter +<span class="pagenum">184</span> + as ourselves. As +soon as we had escaped one current we found ourselves in the power +of another, and with such force was the heavy, flat-bottomed punt +we were in driven upon the shoals, that, with all the strength we +could muster amongst us, we were sometimes ten minutes or a quarter +of an hour before we could get her afloat again; and when we had at +last effected it, round she spun, and there was her stern as fast as +a church within a dozen yards of the spot where her head had been +similarly situated two minutes before. At least an hour and a half was +lost in this amusing exercise, during which we had the gratification +of seeing the regular packet-boat that we had gotten the start of at +Aschach, pass us far to the left, and, steering clear of all obstacles, +vanish into the valley which opened between the wooded mountains in the +distance. At last, when our strength, our patience, and the reproaches +we poured rather unceremoniously on our drunken steersman were just +exhausted, and we had begun to calculate upon the probability of +passing the afternoon and evening at least upon the shoals, we found +<span class="pagenum">185</span> + ourselves by accident, but to our +unspeakable satisfaction, once more impelled forwards by a gentle and +properly behaved current, which promised, in the course of time, to +lead us into the stream we had in evil hour deserted.</p> + +<p>On the left bank of the Danube below Nieder-Walsee, stand the +village of Saxen, and the Castles of Clam and Kreuzen. Saxen is +mentioned as early as 823, in which year Louis the Debonair gave +to Reginhard, Bishop of Passau, two churches at “Saxina in terra +Hunnorum.” The towers of Clam rise above a forest of pines a little +behind Saxen. It was anciently the seat of the Lords of Machland. The +brother of Otto of Machland, who founded the kloster of Baumgartenberg, +was the first of the family who signed himself “Chlamme,” A.D. 1156. +On the extinction of the family of Machland, this Burg came to the +Preuschenks, and in 1487, the troops of Matthias Corvinus besieged and +took it. The family of Perger bought it in 1524, enlarged it in 1636, +and took the title of Barons and afterwards of Counts of Clamm. The +great white castle of Kreuzen, +<span class="pagenum">186</span> + far +away upon the summit of a hill to the north-west, also belonged to +the Lords of Machland, and in the twelfth century was called Croucen +and Chrutzen. In 1334, it came to the celebrated Volkerstorfs, The +Counts of Meggar bought it in 1523, and when the Turks were devastating +Upper Austria in 1526, its walls were filled with fugitives of all +ranks and ages. In 1701, it was bought by a Count Cavariani, who sold +it again almost immediately to the Count of Salburg. The market-town +of Ardagger, upon the right bank, was given by Charlemagne to the +bishopric of Passau. The Emperor Conrad III., when setting out on +his unfortunate crusade, landed here on the 29th of May, 1147, to +make the necessary preparation for passing with his fleet the then +much-dreaded Strudel and Wirbel. Seventy thousand knights, completely +armed, an equal number of foot-soldiers, a troop of females “in +the armour and attitude of men,” the chief of whom, from her gilt +spurs and buskins, obtained the epithet of “The golden-footed dame<a +id="FNank_56" href="#FN_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>”, <span +class="pagenum">187</span> passed down the Danube under the banners +of Conrad. Two years afterwards, a few boats, principally filled with +priests who had followed the army, returned to these shores; all that +treachery, battle, and disease had left of the mighty host that had so +lately marched in full confidence to the conquest of Asia!</p> + +<p>A sudden bend of the river near this spot, brought us again amongst +the mountains, and in a moment we seemed shut out from the world by +the craggy barriers that rose on each side of us,—the counterparts of +those I have attempted to describe in the wild gorge of the Schlägen. +After passing a few lonely huts, perched here and there amongst the +masses of rock and forest, the chateau and town of Grein started at +once into view, on turning a sharp and craggy point, cradled amongst +the precipices which, opening behind the town, form a vista, terminated +by the castle of Kreuzen on its +<span class="pagenum">188</span> + +distant hill. Grein is one of the poorest and smallest towns in Upper +Austria, and the chateau is a large, gloomy building, originally +built by Heinrich von Chreine, in the twelfth century. Frederick the +Handsome, Duke of Austria, pledged Grein for five hundred and sixty-two +silver pfennige, to Albert von Volkerstorf, May 14th, 1308. The valiant +Bernhard von Scherffenberg beat the Bohemians here twice, during the +fifteenth century; at the close of which it was bought of the Emperor +Maximilian by one of the family of Prueschenk. Heinrich von Prueschenk +rebuilt the chateau, and from this circumstance it received the name of +Heinrichsburg.</p> + +<p>The traveller now approaches the most extraordinary scene on +the long Danube, from its source in the Black Forest, to its mouth +in the Black Sea. As soon as a bend of the river has shut out the +view of Grein and its chateau, a mass of rock and castle, scarcely +distinguishable from each other, appears to rise in the middle of the +stream before you. The flood roars and rushes round each side of it; +and ere you +<span class="pagenum">189</span> + can perceive which way +the boat will take, it dashes down a slight fall to the left, struggles +awhile with the waves, and then sweeps round between two crags, on +which are the fragments of old square towers, with crucifixes planted +before them. It has scarcely righted itself from this first shock, when +it is borne rapidly forward towards an immense block of stone, on which +stands a third tower, till now hidden by the others, and having at its +foot a dangerous eddy. The boat flashes like lightning through the +tossing waves, within a few feet of the vortex, and comes immediately +into still water, leaving the passenger who beholds this scene for the +first time, mute with wonder and admiration. These are the Scylla and +Charybdis of the Danube, the celebrated Strudel and Wirbel. The passage +is made in little more than the time it takes to read the above brief +description, and I could scarcely scratch down the outlines of these +curious crags and ruins, before I was whirled to some distance beyond +them. I must beg my reader, however, to return with me, and repass them +more leisurely, than the impatient +<span class="pagenum">190</span> + +stream would permit us. The Danube, checked in its northern course at +Grein, and driven unwillingly towards the east, vents its fury against +the opposing crags on the left bank, and having broken down part of +the barrier, rides over the ruins in triumph, forming what is called, +by the boatmen, the Grein-Schwall. After this ebullition of anger, +the stream appears to sink into sullen indifference, and slowly and +silently pursues its way through a gloomy gorge of precipices, that +rise higher and higher on each side of it, till it arrives within a +few yards of the Wörthinsel, an island, about four hundred fathoms +long, and two hundred broad, surrounded by sand-banks on all sides +except the north, where a perpendicular crag starts up, bearing on +its crest the ruins of the Wöther-Schloss, or Castle of Werfenstein<a +id="FNank_57" href="#FN_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>. From <span +class="pagenum">191</span> this island to the rocky shores of the +Danube, which here open and form a kind of circle around it, run +several chains of crags beneath the water; some indeed peering above +it, over and through which the stream rushes right and left, with +considerable violence and uproar. The right arm is called the Hössgang, +and is only passable when the water is very high, by the smallest and +lightest craft. The main body hurries round the northern or left side +of the island, and boiling over the first chain of rocks, falls through +three separate channels, a depth of three feet in a distance of four +hundred and eighty. This fall is called the Strudel; but the boatmen +have a name for each channel, and call that one in particular the +Strudel which is nearest to the north shore of the island: the centre +channel is called the Wildriss; and the third, nearest the main bank, +the Waldwasser<a id="FNank_58" href="#FN_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a>. +The three principal crags +<span class="pagenum">192</span> + which, +standing in the entrance of these three channels, form part of the +bank or bar, over which the water falls into them, have also their +particular names; that in the entrance to the Strudel is called the +Bomben-Gehäkel, or Buma-G’hachelt; the next, the Wildriss-Gehäkel, +and the third, the Wald-Gehäkel,—the term Gehäkel or G’hachelt +distinguishing the crags, the points of which generally appear +above the surface, from those which lie beneath it, and which are +called Kogeln or Kugeln. There are nearly a dozen of these Kogeln +in the passage of the Strudel, the principal of which are named the +Marchkugel, the Wolfskugel, and the Maisenkugel; and one, from its +particular formation, the Dreyspitze. These lie in various directions, +in the entrance and middle of the channels. At the outlet of the +Wildriss there is a reef of rock called the Ross, the principal crag in +which is named the Rosskopf; another reef, called the Felsengelander, +lies at the end of the Waldwasser, beside which are two rocks called +the Keller and the Hute. Some of these, at low water, are not more than +two feet +<span class="pagenum">193</span> + beneath the surface, and +impassable, of course, by a boat of any size or burden.</p> + +<p>It may easily be supposed that a stream like the Danube does not +flow very quietly over so rugged a bed, and though considerable masses +of rock have been blown up, and the channels otherwise much widened +and deepened within the last fifty years, there are still obstacles +enough to fret and agitate the river to a degree which gives at least +an appearance of danger to the passage, if even there be not a little +in reality. At the end of the fall, or Strudel, on the left, and of +the Hössgang on the right, the rocky shores again approach each other, +and the river, uniting its currents, sweeps rapidly round to the north +beneath a jutting crag, upon which stands the ruins of the castle of +Struden, and washes the walls of the little town of the same name. The +castle belonged anciently to the lords of Machland, and after them to +the Archdukes of Austria. In 1413, the Archdukes Leopold and Ernest +gave the “Feste haus ze Struden” to one Hans Greisenecker, who already +possessed the Castle of Werfenstein, for “a consideration;” <span +class="pagenum">194</span> and in 1493, the brothers Heinrich and +Sigmund Prueschenk bought both castles from the House of Austria, to +which they had reverted.</p> + +<p>About a thousand yards below Struden, but near the right bank of +the river, rises the large block of stone called the Hausstein, upon +which are the ruins of the tower of the same name; round the southern +side of this block struggles a small arm of the Danube, called the +Lueg, and navigable like the Hössgang, when the water is very high, +by small boats only. On the northern side is the celebrated whirlpool +(Der Wirbel), formed most probably by the violence with which the +two currents of the Danube are hurled against each other on leaving +the Wörthinsel, and again checked and divided by the Hausstein. +This whirlpool measures sometimes nearly fifty feet in diameter; +but when we passed it, it did not, I should think, exceed fifteen. +In the centre the water forms a perfect funnel, and a large branch +of fir was whirling round and round in it, as if some invisible +hand were stirring the natural cauldron, and making it “boil <span +class="pagenum">195</span> and bubble.” All sorts of extravagant +stories have of course been circulated respecting this dreaded vortex, +which is gravely affirmed by some of the old writers to have no bottom. +Munster, in his Kosmographie, printed at Basle in 1567, says, “They +have often sounded in this place, but the abyss is so deep that they +can touch no ground. It is bottomless. What falls therein, remains +under and never comes up again.”—b. III. sam. 965. This writer also +confounds the Strudel with the Wirbel.<a id="FNank_59" href="#FN_59" +class="fnanchor">[59]</a></p> + +<p>Father Kircher vows there is a hole underneath the Wirbel, +which sucks in the waters of the Danube, and a subterranean <span +class="pagenum">196</span> channel connected with it, by which the +said water is conveyed into Hungary, where it rises again, and +forms the Plattensee or Lake of Balaton! Others claim the same +origin for the Lake of Neusiedle<a id="FNank_60" href="#FN_60" +class="fnanchor">[60]</a>, and to clinch the fable, which is still +reverently believed by the Hungarians, assert, that a travelling +cooper, who lost some of his tools in the Wirbel, absolutely found them +again floating on the surface of the Neusiedler-see.</p> + +<p>Happelius, as in support of this hypothesis, says, “it is well known +that the Danube loses a considerable quantity of its waters in the +Wirbel, so that its flood is of much less consequence from that spot +down to Vienna,” a falsehood which a glance at the river is capable at +once of refuting.</p> + +<p>There can be no doubt that, in earlier ages, there must have +been considerable danger in passing these falls and eddies; <span +class="pagenum">197</span> and even now, when the water is low, an +inexperienced or careless steersman might easily get the bottom of +his boat knocked out in the Strudel, or its side staved in by the +crags of the Hausstein, under either of which circumstances the +passengers would stand a very fair chance of being drowned. I cannot +help thinking our own rather a narrow escape, for my readers will +recollect that, on leaving Nieder-Walsee, our worthy pilot was lying +dead drunk in the stern of the boat. To our utter astonishment, +however, upon approaching the Grein-Schwall, he managed to get upon +his legs, and, as if sobered for the moment by a sudden sense of his +own situation, snatched the rudder from the boy (who in a few minutes +would certainly have had us upon the rocks), steered us manfully and +cleverly through the Strudel and Wirbel, and then flung himself down +again on his straw as drunk and insensible as before. Had we been +aware of the vicinity of these places, we should certainly have taken +a pilot on board at Ardagger, but we had no idea we were so near them, +and the poor fellows who rowed +<span class="pagenum">198</span> + us +were altogether ignorant of the river, and merely working their way to +Vienna. The passage was, however, made before we had time to think of +our danger, almost indeed before we knew where we were; and absorbed +in contemplation of the romantic beauty of the scene, nothing short of +absolute foundering could, I believe, have distracted our attention +from it. Riesbeck, after a brief description of this spot, says, “a +great variety of circumstances concur to excite an idea of danger in +both these parts of the Danube. Low mechanics are fond of speaking +of them, and magnifying the danger, that they may increase their own +importance in having gone through it. Others, more simple, who come to +the place with strong conceits of what they are to meet with there, are +so struck with the wildness of the prospect, and the roaring of the +water, that they begin to quake and tremble before they have seen any +thing. But the masters of the vessels are those who most effectually +keep up the imposition. They make the passage a pretence for raising +the price of the freight, and when you are past them the steersman +goes round with +<span class="pagenum">199</span> + his hat in his hand +to collect money from the passengers as a reward for having conducted +them safely through such perilous spots. When our master (who yet very +well knew how much it was for his interest to keep up the credit of his +monsters) saw how little attention I paid to them, he assured me in +confidence that <i>during the twenty years he had sailed the Danube, +he had not heard of a single accident</i>.” This account was written +in 1780, and yet only three years before, (on the 31st of October +1777,) two vessels struck, one on the Wolfs-Kugel, and the other on the +Maisenkugel, and went to pieces. In 1749, a Schiffmeister of Passau, +named Freidenberger, perished with his daughter in the whirlpool, and +another Schiffmeister, Martin Beyerl, of Vienna, was drowned in it, at +the commencement of the century.</p> + +<p>The danger has certainly, however, been much diminished by +the exertions of the Austrian government, which, besides having +considerably widened and deepened the channels of the Strudel and +Hössgang, by blowing up the rocks and removing the sand, has instituted +sundry prudent regulations +<span class="pagenum">200</span> + respecting +the navigation of this part of the Danube. All boats ascending the +river when the water is only of a certain height, are obliged to stop +at the little town of Struden till information is sent to Grein and +the Saurüssel, at both which places a flag is immediately hoisted to +give notice to any vessels descending the stream, that one is coming up +through the Strudel, and so prevent the collision that would be likely +to take place should they attempt to pass it in contrary directions +at the same time, the descending vessel being compelled, under a +heavy penalty, to lay to, above the rock called the Rabenstein, till +the other has passed. Also when the water is of a sufficient height +to enable the ascending boats to pass through the southern channels +of the Lueg and the Hössgang, the horses keep the towing-path on the +right bank from Ips to Wiessen, a small place facing Grein. But when +the water is low, the horses are ferried three times across the river +in the short distance of 1200 yards; first below the Wirbel, from the +right bank over to the left; then from the town of Struden to the +<span class="pagenum">201</span> + Wörthinsel; and lastly, from the +western end of that island over the Hössgang, back again to the right +bank, under the Rabenstein.</p> + +<p>As soon as you have passed the Wirbel, a boat puts off from the +little town of St. Nikola on the left bank, and paddling alongside, +a man holds out a box with the figure of the saint in it for the +“voluntary contributions” of the passengers, who are expected to +drop a few kreutzers in acknowledgment of the protection that has +been so kindly afforded them by his saintship. On board the regular +passage-boat, money is also collected by the steersman as Riesbeck +describes, and another ceremony likewise takes place, something similar +to that customary on board a ship when passing the line. The steersman +goes round with the wooden scoop or shovel, with which they wet the +ropes that bind the paddles to their uprights, filled with water; and +those who have never before passed through the Strudel and the Wirbel +must either pay or be well soused with the element, the perils of which +they have just escaped. </p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">202</span> +In 1144, Beatrix of Klamm founded +an hospital at St. Nikola for travellers on the Danube, which she +so richly endowed, that Albert of Austria, two hundred years later, +found it only necessary to provide for the spiritual welfare of its +visitants, and therefore established a daily mass with the money +collected on the river from Ardagger to Ips, in the manner above +mentioned.</p> + +<p>There were formerly two other towers or fortresses in the +neighbourhood; the ruins of one still exist on the northern bank of the +river, nearly facing the Wirbel, on the rock called the Langen-Stein. +The other was, as early as the twelfth century, spoken of as “the +ruined castle of the noble Lady Helchin,” and not a fragment of it is +now remaining. An old story, which I shall shortly have occasion to +transcribe, speaks of the tower called “Der Teufelsthurm,” (the Devil’s +Tower) but whether either of the four still standing have a claim to +that respectable appellation or no, is a question at present undecided. +It is accorded by some writers to the Castle of Werfenstein.</p> + +<p>The gorge through which the river now <span +class="pagenum">203</span> flows calmly and silently as it had never +been ruffled, is of the same description as that from Hayenbach to +Neuhaus, but the mountains that line its shores are still higher, and +often</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Their lofty crests are capped with snow,<br> + While blossoms deck the vale below.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>So deep is the water, and so steady the stream, that boats of any +burden may drift down it in the darkest night with perfect safety. We +now floated past the old round tower of Sarblingstein, standing on a +pedestal of granite, above a little group of houses, beside which the +rivulet of Sarbling brawls through a woody ravine over the rocky bank +into the Danube. The tower is all that remains of a fortress built by +the Monks of Waldhausen in 1538, with the permission of the Emperor +Ferdinand, upon the express condition that it should be considered an +asylum for the inhabitants of the neighbourhood in case of invasion or +civil war. Hirschau, close under Sarblingstein, is the last hamlet in +Upper Austria, or Austria on the Ens. Opposite it on the right bank +are the scarcely visible remains of the castle of Hirschau, <span +class="pagenum">204</span> and further east, upon the mountain top, +lie the extensive ruins of Freystein, formerly one of the largest and +strongest castles in Austria. At the close of the fourteenth century, +it belonged to the famous Reinprecht von Walsee, and after him to the +families of Preuschenk and Zinzendorf. The Prince of Starrhemberg also +once possessed it. Near this spot two valleys open to the south-west, +and from thence the granite is brought with which the streets of Vienna +are paved. The labourers employed to blast the rocks and work the +quarries live close by in the little village of Dörfel; beside which +the rivulet Isper, the Hyspere of the middle ages, rippling through a +narrow valley, forms the line of boundary northward between Upper and +Lower Austria.</p> + +<p>The sun went down and the mountains seemed to sink with it, or +melt into the mists that crept around them. The valley of the Danube +widened,—a large building rose on the left bank, upon the end of +a rocky promontory, throwing a deeper gloom over the darkening +waters, its lofty tower piercing through the low vapours <span +class="pagenum">205</span> and soaring into the clear, star-spangled +sky above them—it was Schloss Bösenbeug, the summer residence of the +Emperor, and one of the oldest buildings in Lower Austria, though the +alterations made during the last century by its then possessors, the +Herren von Hoyos, have taken much from the antique appearance of its +exterior<a id="FNank_61" href="#FN_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a>. +Nearly facing it on the right bank stood the small chateau of +Donaudorf, and beyond these two buildings, the river opened to the +right and left, in the same manner that it did below Neuhaus. A +multitude of lights glimmering amidst a black mass of houses and +huts, and reflected in long trembling lines upon the water, pointed +out to us the town of Ips, similarly situated to that of Aschach. The +Castle of Bosenbeug or Persenbeug belonged in the ninth century to +that Count Engelschalk who carried off the daughter of Arnulph the +Bastard, and afterwards lost his eyes and his estates by the sentence +of the Diet at Ratisbon, as has been already described in <span +class="pagenum">206</span> the notice of Ebelsberg near Linz: Nearly +all the confiscated property of Engelschalk was given by Arnulph to the +monks of Kremsmünster; but, curiously enough, this Castle of Bösenbeug, +by a train of circumstances, eluded for a long time the clutches of +“holy mother Church,” who laboured indefatigably, “by hook or by +<i>crook</i>,” to get it into her possession. How it escaped her grasp +in the ninth century is not clear, but it certainly did do so, and +became the property of the valiant Bavarian Sieghart von Sempt, to whom +probably it was given as a stronghold, that would enable him better to +defend the duchy against the inroads of the Hungarians. Sieghart fell +gloriously in the execution of his trust, A.D. 907, in the terrible +battle fought between Theben and Haimburg. To work of course went +the monks, and at length so wrought upon the mind of one of his weak +descendants, Albert III.; that he bequeathed to them at his death “the +strong castle of Bösenbeug,” in despite of the entreaties of his wife +Richlinde, or Richlita, who strove to preserve it to the next male +heir, her nephew Welf von Altorf. The +<span class="pagenum">207</span> + +breath was scarcely out of the body of Albert, when a desperate +struggle ensued between his widow and the monks of Ebersberg. The +lady had taken up her residence in the castle, which she claimed as +part of her jointure, with reversion to her nephew Welf, and refused +to acknowledge the title of the church, which she contended had been +fraudulently acquired. In the midst of this dispute, a circumstance +took place which shall be related as nearly as possible in the words +of the old chronicler Aventine. “The Emperor” (Henry III. surnamed the +Black) “departed from Regensburg and came by water to Passau: there +he tarried during the Passion week; and till the holy feast of the +Ascension. The next day after which he again took water; and journeyed +into Lower Bavaria, as Austria was then called. There is a town in +Austria by name Grein; near this town is a perilous place in the +Danube, called the Strudel by Stockerau<a id="FNank_62" href="#FN_62" +class="fnanchor">[62]</a>. There doth one hear the water rushing far +and +<span class="pagenum">208</span> + wide, so falls it over the rocks +with a great foam, which is very dangerous to pass through, and brings +the vessel into a whirlpool, rolling round about. The Emperor Henry +went down through the Strudel; in another vessel was Bruno, bishop of +Wurtzburg, the Emperor’s kinsman; and as the bishop also was passing +through the Strudel, there sat upon a rock that projected out of the +water, a man blacker than a Moor, of a horrible aspect, terrible to all +who beheld it, who cried out and said to bishop Bruno, ‘Hear! +hear! bishop! I am thine evil spirit! thou art mine own, go where +thou wilt, thou shalt be mine, yet now I will do nought to thee, +but soon shalt thou see me again<a id="FNank_63" href="#FN_63" +class="fnanchor">[63]</a>.’ All who heard this were terrified. The +bishop crossed and blessed himself, said a few prayers, and the spirit +vanished. This rock is shewn to this day; upon it is built <span +class="pagenum">209</span> a small tower all of stone, without any +wood: it has no roof, and is called the Devil’s Tower. Not far from +thence, some two miles journey, the Emperor and his people landed, +purposing to pass the night in a town called Pösenbeiss, belonging +to the Lady Richlita, widow of the Count Adalbero von Ebersberg. She +received the Emperor joyfully; invited him to a banquet, and prayed +him, besides, that he would bestow the town of Pösenbeiss and other +surrounding places (that her husband had possessed and governed) on her +brother’s son, Welforic III. The Emperor entered the banquet-room, and +standing near Bishop Bruno, Count Aleman von Ebersberg and the Lady +Richlita, gave the countess his right hand and granted her prayer. +At that moment the floor of the apartment fell in, and the Emperor +fell through into the bathing-chamber below it, without sustaining +any injury, as did also Count Aleman, and the Lady Richlita, but the +bishop fell on the edge of the bathing-tub, broke his ribs, and died a +few days afterwards.” Other writers say, that the Count and the Lady +Richlita both died from the +<span class="pagenum">210</span> + hurts +they received; but be that as it may, the right heir was, according to +the Emperor’s promise, established at Bösenbeug, A.D. 1045, in spite +of the intrigues and plots of the monks, whose agents had frightened +and killed the poor bishop, he having, as it appears, spoken a good +word for the lady, who is supposed also to have fallen a victim to +the same scandalous trick, copied most likely from a similar tragical +farce played off by the celebrated St. Dunstan, about seventy years +before, in England. Some time afterwards the monks renewed their claim +in applications to the Markgraves Albert I. and Leopold III., but +without success, the latter, in 1096, giving the castle to his youngest +daughter, Richardis. Thus foiled, they went on a new tack, and managed +to persuade the husband of this Princess, Count Stephaning, to join +the first crusade, in the hope that he would never return, and that +Bösenbeug would at length become their property. Half of the charitable +wish was granted.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Audiit, et voti Phœbus succedere partem<br> + Mente dedit: partem volucris dispersit in auras.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>The bones of the poor crusader whitened <span +class="pagenum">211</span> the deserts of Syria, but his castle +reverted to the Markgraves of Austria. Ottocar, king of Bohemia, gave +it in 1271 to the patriarch of Aquileia; but in the reign of the +Emperor Albert I. we find it again in the possession of the house of +Austria. The Emperor Frederick IV. took possession of it as guardian +of Ladislaus, but he was ejected by force of arms in 1457, and the +castle given back to Ladislaus. Rudolph II. pledged and afterwards sold +it, with Rohreck, Weinberg, and the whole Isperthal, to the Barons of +Hoyos, from which family it was repurchased by the present emperor in +1801. The tilt-yard is still in good preservation, and the gardens +are beautiful. His Majesty is very partial to the spot, and makes +frequent excursions by land as far as the Strudel and Wirbel, from +whence he returns in the boat of a schiffmeister at Bösenbeug of the +name of Feldmüller, whom he patronizes highly, and who is considered +the richest man of his calling in Lower Austria. He builds yearly about +twenty of the boats called kellheimers, and employs one hundred horses +and three hundred men. Most of the +<span class="pagenum">212</span> + +inhabitants of the little markt of Bösenbeug have, as may be supposed, +considerably benefited from its becoming an Imperial residence.</p> + +<p>The town of Ips or Yps, as it is indifferently spelt, on the +opposite bank, is supposed by some old geographers to be the Usbium +of Ptolemy, by others the Pons Isidis. It is seated at the confluence +of a river of the same name with the Danube; and, in the time of +Charlemagne, appears under the name of Ibesse and Isebruch, as the +property of the Counts of Sempt and Ebersberg. In 1275, Ips threw +open its gates to Rudolph of Hapsburg; and, in 1741, the Bavarian +and French armies here formed a junction: its name has, however, +become familiar to foreign lands, not from the deeds of arms done in +its neighbourhood, but from its having shared with Passau the trade +in the crucibles made at Hafner-zell; and which, as I have before +mentioned, are distinguished throughout the world by the names of +the places where they are sold, instead of that of the spot where +they are fabricated. Immediately below Ips, the river forms a reach, +<span class="pagenum">213</span> + which, from the difficulty of its +navigation, obtained the appellation that has eventually attached +itself to the point of land at which it commences,—Die Böse-Beug, +literally, “the bad corner.” Before we turned this corner, however, +night had sunk down upon land and flood, and our crew began to be +clamorous for rest and refreshment. Our drunken beast of a steersman, +whom we had now begun cordially to detest, insisted upon proceeding +as far as Marbach; and accordingly the men, who knew nothing of the +river, pulled away again for a quarter of an hour rather sulkily; +when, having lost sight of the lights of Ips, and seeing none appear +in the distance, they again expressed symptoms of impatience, and upon +receiving from a passing boat the information that Marbach was yet +“eine starke stunde” (a long hour) distant, they became outrageous, +and vowed they would run the boat ashore, at the first village they +could discover. Neither my companion nor myself much objected to +their determination, as there was every probability, from their utter +ignorance of the river, the inability of the steersman to direct +them, and the +<span class="pagenum">214</span> + heavy fog that was +fast rising, that in the course of a few minutes we should go bump +ashore somewhere, whether we would or no; and therefore a hovel, +where bed and supper might be procured, was certainly preferable to +a sandbank without either. Two or three tapers glimmering above the +fog through something like windows, attracting our notice on the +left, the men pulled towards it, and our boat soon grated on the +sand, under what first appeared a lofty wall, but which turned out, +on examination, a steep bank, upon the ridge of which stood half a +dozen poor cottages. Up we clambered on all fours, dragging our cloaks +and portmanteaus with us; and a man making his appearance with a +lantern, we followed him into an old crazy-looking hovel, which, by +the outward and visible sign of a dead bush dangling over its door, +too plainly indicated the miserable state of its inward and spiritual +grace, though dignified by the title of a gasthaus<a id="FNank_64" +href="#FN_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a>. Several sufficiently +ill-looking fellows in jackets of undressed black sheep-skin, caps +<span class="pagenum">215</span> + of the same material, and high +boots, each with a formidable clasp-knife, worn as an English +carpenter wears his rule; two brawny, bare-armed, masculine wenches +in similar jackets, with dark handkerchiefs bound round their brows +in the Austrian fashion; and an old hag, whose habits and person were +equally indescribable, formed the rather startling group to which our +guide introduced us. Our application for beds appeared to astonish +them. They had no such thing; there was plenty of straw. They had +no coffee, no butter;—the poor fellows who had rowed us sat down on +a bench, and began to gnaw some dry bread, the only refreshment the +<i>hotel</i> seemed capable of furnishing. On a sudden it occurred to +us that a basin of boiled milk might be procurable, and sure enough +half a gallon, at least, of delicious milk was in ten minutes smoking +in two glorious wooden bowls, upon the long oaken table before us. +Our host now entered with one or two helpers laden with straw, which +they spread all over the floor, and our crew, having finished their +crusts, stretched themselves out in a row, their knapsacks under <span +class="pagenum">216</span> their heads, and soon commenced a nasal +symphony, more powerful than harmonious. The company and the family +having one by one withdrawn, with the exception of the old beldame, who +waited to take away the solitary candle, we betook ourselves also to +our portion of the straw, and never in my life did I enjoy a sweeter, +sounder sleep than that which bound up my senses in the humble gasthaus +of Gottsdorf till six o’clock the next morning.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R VII. --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">217</span> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2> +</div> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Marbach. — Maria-Taferl. — Pechlarn. — Wiedeneck. — Mölk. — Lubereck. — The +Valley of the Wachau. — Schönbühel. — Aggstein. — The Teufel’s-Mauer. — Spitz, +and the Ruin of Hinterhaus. — Church and Village of St. Michel. — Castle of +Dürrenstein. — Narrow escape of Marshal Mortier during the Campaign of +1805. — Mautern. — Stein. — Krems. — Kloster Göttweih. — Trasenmauer. — Arrival at +Tuln.</p> +</div> + +<p>We had now been three days upon the water, during which time +scarcely a cloud had speckled the deep blue of the sky. As the first +light of morning, however, struggled through the little dingy casement +of our humble hotel, we were disagreeably surprised at finding that the +fog, which had risen the previous evening after sunset, still rolled +heavily along the river, and threatened to continue the greater part, +if not the whole of the day. We were still nearly two days’ journey +from Vienna, and a change of weather, which might be portended by this +unwelcome visitant, would probably make it four, five, or even six, +before we could reach the capital, to say nothing of the disagreeables +it would bring +<span class="pagenum">218</span> + in its train. At the +risk of losing the beauty of the prospect, therefore, we urged our +immediate departure, but here we were met by a new difficulty. Our +drunken steersman, who had lain all night in the boat, was now ill in +<i>sober</i> sadness, and quite incapable of steering us. A new pilot +was to be found, and, after much parley and delay, our host of the +gasthaus signified his consent to take the helm; but the fog, instead +of dispersing, as we had faintly hoped, with the rising sun, appeared +to increase in density; and not one of our boatmen could be prevailed +on to trust himself afloat in it. After at least another hour’s delay, +and considerable altercation, by dint of a little money, and promise +of more, we induced three out of the four to venture on board, and, +about eight o’clock, pushed off into the fog, by this time quite as +thick, though not so yellow, as that which pervades Lombard Street +on a November afternoon. Fortunately this part of the Danube is not +fertile in fine views. The small village of Barthub and Mössling, +on the left, and Hinterhaus, and the two Agens, on the right, have +nothing to recommend +<span class="pagenum">219</span> + them, either in +a picturesque or historical point of view; and the distant prospect +of Maria-Taferl we had afterwards an opportunity of enjoying. The +river, from Bösenbeug and Ips, makes a bold sweep to the south as far +as Säusenstein, that stands on a small promontory on the right bank, +round which its waters boil and foam, and form what, in earlier times, +was called the Charybdis Pogica. The ruin here is of a very late date. +It was a mansion belonging to some ecclesiastic, and burned by the +French in the last war. The Cistercian convent near it, called St. +Lorenz in the Gottesthal, was founded by Eberhard von Walsee, in 1336. +In the fifteenth century, it was attacked and plundered by some of the +knightly robbers who infested the neighbourhood, and who are termed +“<i>fratres hostiles</i>” in the old chronicles. The tombs of the +family of Walsee, which became extinct in 1483, are still in existence +here. On that of Reinprecht, the last of his race, is simply his motto, +“Thue Recht,” with the words beneath it, “periisti amor,” in allusion +to the termination of the feud between the Houses of Walsee <span +class="pagenum">220</span> and Schaumberg. All this; at least, says +Herr Schultes, who had the advantage of visiting this spot in clearer +weather—we saw neither ruin nor convent, nor tombs; but what we did +see near this place was equally picturesque and striking. The sound of +voices chaunting a kind of hymn, stole faintly on our ears, and, as +it became more distinct, a boat appeared, like a phantom, in the fog, +crowded with pilgrims, on their way to Marbach and Maria-Taferl. They +were principally women, and sat huddled together round a priest, who, +bare-headed, supported a crucifix, and occasionally chimed in, in a +deep bass voice, with the quavering trebles of his companions. For a +few minutes, they floated beside us, and then gradually melted again +into the mist, as though they had been creatures of it, the hymn dying +away in the distance.</p> + +<p>Before we reached Marbach, the fog, to our great gratification, had +evidently begun to disperse. It still covered the face of the water, +but the blue sky was visible above it; and the sun, occasionally +breaking through it, gave us a glimpse of this or that bank, according +to the situation of the boat. The +<span class="pagenum">221</span> + +Markt of Marbach existed as early, at least, as the thirteenth century, +as, in 1208, we hear of the Knights of Marbach. Almost every house +in the place is an inn, as, lying under the lofty mountain, on which +stands the most celebrated place of pilgrimage in Lower Austria—the +church of Maria-Taferl, it is of course the place of rendezvous for the +countless devotees who swarm from all parts of the empire to that holy +shrine. The inhabitants of Vienna, in the middle of September, come on +horseback, in every kind of vehicle, and even on foot, hundreds in a +day, and return by the Danube. A great traffic is also carried on with +these pious personages in crosses, amulets, rosaries, and holy images, +pictures and books of all descriptions, by the inhabitants of Marbach; +besides which, a number of beggars reside here, each of whom has his +or her regular standing upon the path winding up the hill to the +Maria-Taferl; and spend duly every evening, in eating and drinking, the +large sums they have collected during the day. It has been calculated +that upwards of a million and a half of florins are annually expended +here; +<span class="pagenum">222</span> + and the minister of the place +told Herr Schultes that one year he himself had counted 135,000 +pilgrims. A proverbial rhyme tends also much to the well doing of the +inhabitants of Marbach:</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Wer nach Maria Taferl ein Wallfahrt maken thut<br> + Diess ihm Maria Taferl macht aller wiedergut:” + </p> +</div> + +<p>which may be rendered,—</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + Who to Maria Taferl a pilgrimage hath ta’en,<br> + To him Maria Taferl shall make all good again. + </p> +</div> + +<p>Expense, therefore, is the last thing considered; and the spirit of +extravagance extends itself even to the townspeople, who lavish, in the +pride of their well-filled purses, ridiculous sums upon the decoration +of their houses, so that, according to another German proverb, says +Schultes,—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<div class="cc"> + <p>“Was durch das Pfeifchen kommt, geht durch die Trommel davon.”</p> + <p>What comes through the fife goes away through the drum.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p>Our new steersman put into this little markt to buy some beer and +bread; and the fog now rolling off in broken masses, enabled us to get +a peep at the town, which seemed a strange jumble of alehouses and +chapels, +<span class="pagenum">223</span> + signs and crucifixes, all +very gaily and fantastically painted, and forming, in short, a most +consistent trysting-place for “<i>publicans</i> and sinners.”</p> + +<p>Maria-Taferl is to the pious Austrian what Maria-Einsiedel is to +the Roman Catholic Swabian, and Maria-Oetting to the Bavarian of the +same persuasion. The lovers of an extensive and beautiful prospect +may, for an hour’s climbing, enjoy, from the summit of the mountain +on which it stands, a splendid panorama of the Danube and great part +of Lower Austria, the Alps of the Steyermark, and the whole chain of +mountains from the lofty Schneeberg in the Wiener-Wald, to the frontier +of Bavaria. The history of this celebrated place of pilgrimage may be +bought for two kreutzers, a great deal more than it is worth, but that +it is amusing and instructive to see how grossly the Roman Catholic +priesthood are yet permitted to gull an ignorant, and consequently +superstitious people.</p> + +<p>The precious document sets forth with stating the well-known +fact of the existence, from time immemorial, of a venerable <span +class="pagenum">224</span> oak-tree on the top of the mountain, in +which was placed a figure of the crucified Redeemer. To this spot the +inhabitants of Klein-Pechlarn, a small village in the neighbourhood, +used to repair every Easter Monday to put up their petitions for a fine +harvest, and, after hearing the service chaunted, sat down at a stone +table before the church-door, and ate, drank, and were merry; from +whence arose the name of Maria-<i>Taferl</i>, or Mary of the Table. +In 1662, a herdsman, either from ignorance or wantonness, attempted +to hew down the sacred tree, on which age had already heavily laid +its withering and deforming hand. At the first blow, however, the axe +recoiled so violently, that it sprung from his grasp and wounded one of +his feet severely. Unchecked by this warning, however, he +made a second blow, when it again recoiled with still more +violence, and desperately wounded his other foot<a id="FNank_65" +href="#FN_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a>. The profane <span +class="pagenum">225</span> herdman, now lifting up his eyes in agony, +observed the crucifix, and struck with remorse, craved pardon of God +for his impiety; upon which the blood stopped of its own accord, +and his wounds healed immediately, without surgical or any human +assistance! Ten years after this miraculous occurrence, a man named +Alexander Schinnagel, who suffered under a deep and distressing +melancholy, which he could not shake off, came, by heaven directed, to +the house of a schoolmaster, who had in his chamber an image of the +Virgin, called a Vesperbild. Schinnagel bought the image, and carried +it home. In the middle of the night, he heard “a still small voice,” +saying, “Wouldst thou be cured, take the image, and place it in the +oak at Maria-Taferl.” Accordingly, at day-break, up rose Alexander, +and proceeded with his purchase to the mountain-top, where he placed +it as directed, taking down at the same time the crucifix, which age +and exposure to the weather had nearly destroyed.. Immediately his +melancholy left him, and he returned home a merry, and, we hope, a +grateful man. Since that +<span class="pagenum">226</span> + period the +angels themselves have frequently visited the sacred spot. On the 17th +of June, 1658, a most credible (credulous?) personage saw a snow white +and luminous apparition, in mid-day, before the holy effigy. In 1659, +three persons, equally worthy of belief, saw a whole troop of angels, +in white garments, and in processional order, on their way to the +Vesperbild. Another time, when forty people were collected together in +its neighbourhood, three of them saw an angelical procession in the +air, and three bright stars of remarkable magnitude immediately above +the figure. Again, a procession of white-clothed personages was seen by +eight or ten people, the leading apparition bearing a red cross; and +shortly afterwards a wax taper was suddenly observed burning before +the Vesperbild. In 1661, many other angelical phantoms were seen by +sometimes thirty, and once by a hundred people at a time, all of +them most respectable and credible witnesses, whose testimonies were +registered, signed, and sworn to before the competent authorities! <a +id="FNank_66" href="#FN_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">227</span> +As the vapours, which had till now +enveloped us, began rapidly to yield to the power of the sun, and +were swept in masses by the fresh breeze of morning from the bright +face of the river and the fair hills beside it, disclosing the rich +and beautiful prospect that opened upon us with the widening valley, +smiling in warmth and light; it was impossible to suppress the remark, +commonplace as it may be considered, that, thus, at no very distant +period, would the mists of error and superstition fly before the +increasing influence of knowledge and truth, and man, awaking to the +contemplation of the sublime paths they enlighten, “Look,” full of +hope, joy, and gratitude, “through Nature, up to nature’s God!”</p> + +<p>Albert IV., Duke of Austria, whose journey to the Holy Land gave +rise to so many romantic stories, that he obtained the appellation +of the “wonder of the world,” resided for some time at Marbach, in +the valley of All Saints, with the Carthusians: “with them,” says a +contemporary, “he +<span class="pagenum">228</span> + attends matins, +reads the lessons, makes inclinations, genuflexions, observes +ceremonies, confessions and prayers. He not only joins them in the +performance of divine service in the choir, but affords an example of +humility by frequenting the Chapter-house. In a word, he calls himself +brother Albert, and considers himself in every respect as one of the +order<a id="FNank_67" href="#FN_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>.”</p> + +<p>So few travellers ever think of taking a boat to themselves, +that we were hailed at Marbach, as an <i>ordinari-schiff</i><a +id="FNank_68" href="#FN_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a>, by three poor +women who wanted to go to Vienna. Having plenty of room to spare, we +consented to their coming on board, which they accordingly did with +their baskets and bundles sans cérémonie, imagining that they should +have to pay the usual fare for their passage; and with this accession +of company and cargo we again set forward. Below Schelmenbach and +Krumpen-Nussbaum falls the mountain-stream called the Erlaf, into the +Danube, named in deeds of the time of Charlemagne, and long the <span +class="pagenum">229</span> boundary between Bavaria and the Land of +the Huns. At the mouth of the Erlaf, is a Rechen or Grate, where the +wood collects that is floated down this stream from the forests in the +neighbourhood of Maria-Zell, in the Steyermark, near which it takes its +rise. It is customary in Germany to place one of these gratings at the +mouth of any tributary stream, or in the bed of any river where a line +of demarcation is drawn naturally or artificially between two kingdoms, +two provinces or even two parishes. So that the branches and trunks of +trees blown down by high winds, and swept away by inundations into the +current, should not be carried beyond the frontiers or boundaries of +the state or property to which they belong, and which derives from them +no inconsiderable portion of its revenue.</p> + +<p>The timber, also, regularly felled by the wood-cutters, is thrown +thus carelessly on the mountain-streams of Germany, and floats down to +the Rechen or Grate, where it is afterwards collected by its owners, +who are thus saved the trouble and expense of land carriage; and the +drifting property is +<span class="pagenum">230</span> + protected from +plunder by the severity of the laws relating to it.</p> + +<p>Before us now lay the two Pechlarns; Great Pechlarn on the right, +and Little Pechlarn on the left bank. At the first we determined to +breakfast, were it only to feast where the fair Chrimhilt had feasted, +in</p> + +<p class="center">“Die Burg zu Bechelaren.”</p> + +<p>No relics of the “Burg” itself, however, exist; but an old gateway, +some round towers, and here and there a few feet of crumbling wall, +attest the early grandeur of the place, and fancy fills up the chasms +which time has made, with court and keep, buttress and battlement, +crowded with fair damsels and fierce soldiery, “all, all abroad to +gaze” at the advancing pageant.</p> + +<p>There, round that point of land, comes the royal fleet, the banners +of Hungary, Burgundy, Bavaria, Pechlarn, and Passau, flinging their +blazoned glories on the breeze, and proudly announcing to the admiring +burghers the rich freight of rank and beauty which the swelling Danube +is wafting to their port. Five hundred “Kemps of Hungary,” their bright +hauberks glittering in the sun, +<span class="pagenum">231</span> + crowd +the decks of the first vessels. On the prow of the foremost stands the +valiant Markgraf, Rudiger of Pechlarn, than whom</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “A truer soldier never<br> + Was in this world yborn, + <a id="FNank_69" href="#FN_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a>” + </p> +</div> + +<p>bending eagerly forward to distinguish, amongst the bevy of +beauties at “the open windows<a id="FNank_70" href="#FN_70" +class="fnanchor">[70]</a>” of the castle, the fair forms of his +beloved wife and daughter. Beneath the rich canopy that shades the +deck of yonder bark, with the gilded oars, now doubling the little +promontory, sits the peerless bride of the mighty Etzel, but she hears +not the shout of welcome that rises on the shore; she marks not the +gay multitudes that crowd to pay her homage. Her brow is clouded, her +ruby lip quivers, tears like liquid diamonds tremble upon the long dark +silken lashes of her downcast eyes; the form of the noble Siegfried +is constantly before her. She hears but the voice of her murdered +champion calling for vengeance; she sees but the ghastly wound which +<span class="pagenum">232</span> + treachery dealt, bleeding afresh at +the approach of the dark and deadly Haghen. Yet, passing beautiful is +she even in sorrow, and still warrants the glowing description of the +old minnesænger, Henry of Ofterdingen. <a id="FNank_71" href="#FN_71" +class="fnanchor">[71]</a> </p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“From out her broidered + garments</span><br> + Full many a jewel shone,<br> + The rosy red bloomed sweetly<br> + Her lovely cheek upon.<br> + He who would in fancy<br> + Paint that lady fair,<br> + In this world has never<br> + Seen such beauty rare.<br><br> + As the moon outshineth<br> + Every twinkling star,<br> + Shedding careless splendour<br> + From out her cloudy car;<br> + So, before her maidens,<br> + Stood that lady bright,<br> + And higher swelled the spirit<br> + Of every gazing knight. <a id="FNank_72" href="#FN_72" + class="fnanchor">[72]</a>” + </p> +</div> + +<p>By her side stands a venerable figure, clad in the gorgeous and +sacred vestments of his office. The flowing stole of embroidered silk, +the pallium of cloth of gold, the jewelled mitre, the “gilt shoon,” and +the massive but richly wrought cross and crosier, borne by two of his +attendants, distinguish +<span class="pagenum">233</span> + him as the +holy Pilgerin, the wealthy and powerful Bishop of Passau, uncle to the +queen, and related also to the noble Rudiger. The pale youth near him, +his hands reverently crossed upon his bosom, is his clerk Conrad, who +afterwards assisted him to write, in “the Latin tongue,” the adventures +of the Nibelungen. On the other hand of the lovely Chrimhilt, stands +the faithful Duke Eckewart, who has sworn to escort his liege lady +to Hungary; and the remainder of the flotilla bears the five hundred +chosen Knights of Burgundy, who follow his standard. The vision is +over, the airy castle has vanished—</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“The knights are dust, + </span><br> + Their good swords are rust,<br> + Their souls are with the saints we trust.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>And a rude and solitary boat is rocking under the windows of a poor +white-washed wirthshaus, which, with half a dozen humble cottages and +some mouldering walls, now marks the site of the once strong and gay +burg of Pechlarn!</p> + +<p>Rudiger of Pechlarn, as well as his kinsman, the Bishop of Passau, +is an historical personage. He was Count of the frontier <span +class="pagenum">234</span> during the reign of Arnulph, Duke of +Bavaria, and died in 916. His son, Markgraf Rudiger II., died in 943, +and with him the direct male line became extinct. The little town of +Pechlarn is now principally inhabited by potters.</p> + +<p>Beyond Pechlarn, the river keeps still widening, till, on the left +bank, rises the fine old Castle of Weideneck, which receives its name +from a neighbouring rivulet, and is supposed to have been built by +the elder Rudiger of Pechlarn. The Emperor Frederick IV., and the +famous Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, both beleaguered Weideneck. +The former twice won and lost it. But the eye has scarcely caught +sight of Weideneck, before it is attracted by the distant domes of +the magnificent Convent of Mölk, that appear over the willows of an +island, in the centre of the river. Gradually, the entire façade of the +convent, upon its granite rock, and the little market-town beneath it, +glide from behind the island, and complete one of the most imposing and +beautiful pictures upon the river. The present splendid structure was +built in 1720-32, by an architect, +<span class="pagenum">235</span> + +named Prandauer; but the rock on which it stands, once supported, not +only a more ancient convent, but also a Roman fortress. Under the name +of Medilke, it appears in the Nibelungen-lied,</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“At Medilke were the goblets + </span><br>Of costly gold, filled high,<br> + And the wine went gaily round<br> + Mid that noble company.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>But the authentic history of Mölk commences apparently in the +sixteenth century, when the Markgraf Leopold I., surnamed the +Illustrious, made it his residence after wresting it from the power +of the Hungarians. This valiant prince founded here a kloster, and +was here interred after his murder at Wurzburg, as were likewise +his wife, Richarde, his sons Henry and Albrecht, and their wives, +Mechthilde and Frowiza, Adelheid, Countess of Leopold the Strong, the +Margraf Ernest III., surnamed the Valiant, and his lady Schwanehild, +Leopold III., surnamed the Handsome, and many other noble Austrian +and Bavarian knights and ladies. Saint Colomanus, or Saint Colman, +descended, according to the story, from the early Kings <span +class="pagenum">236</span> of Scotland, was also buried at Mölk. +This saint, travelling through Austria to Jerusalem, was seized, at +Stockerau, by some rebellious peasants, A.D. 1012, who, taking him for +a spy, hung him upon a tree, where his body remained a year and a half +without putrefaction, and afterwards worked many miracles! Leopold +III., in the year 1089, established some Benedictines from Lambach in +this Kloster; and his son, Leopold IV., who was born here in 1073, and +here celebrated his marriage with Agnes, daughter of the Emperor Henry +IV., and widow of Frederick of Hohenstaufen, gave up his palace to +them, and retired to the Khalenberg, near Vienna. The Kloster of Mölk +soon became proverbial for its wealth, and its superior was the Primate +of Lower Austria. In 1619, the insurgents of Upper Austria besieged +Mölk for upwards of a month, as did also the Turks in 1684. Napoleon +had his headquarters here in 1805, and again in 1809; and a mark is +shown upon the floor of one of the apartments in the Kloster, which +he is said to have made in a passion. While a few monks inhabit this +splendid palace, +<span class="pagenum">237</span> + their sovereign, one +of the most powerful monarchs in Europe, passes a considerable portion +of his time in an humble wooden building, upon the opposite bank of +the Danube. At Lubereck, a little below the Castle of Weideneck, +beside a romantic waterfall, is a small edifice, built entirely of +wood, and formerly the country residence of the Baron von Führenberg, +postmaster of Mölk. Between this place and Bösenbeug, Francis I. +divides nearly all the hours which, during summer, he snatches from the +cares of empire. In his plain, domestic habits, and in the kindness +and affability with which, in such moments of relaxation, he listens +or chats to his humble neighbours, the present Sovereign of Austria +greatly resembles our own late venerable monarch, King George III., +and, like him, has compelled his bitterest political enemies to +acknowledge that, in all the private virtues of life, as a husband, a +father, and a master, he is an example, not only to his own subjects, +but to mankind.</p> + +<p>On the left bank, beyond Lubereck, is the markt of Emmersdorf, at +the point of a narrow neck of land, round which the Danube <span +class="pagenum">238</span> wheels to the north-east, and enters the +romantic valley of the Wachau. Emmersdorf, like so many other places +on the Danube, was formerly the seat of some powerful robbers, who +levied contributions upon the passing vessels, and blotted the page of +history with such bloody deeds that, to use the expression of a modern +German writer, the hand of a common executioner alone could steadily +transcribe them. At the mouth of the Bielach, a little river that +empties itself into the Danube nearly facing Emmersdorf, and over which +there is a ferry, the celebrated district called the Wachau commences, +and extends itself as far as the castle of Dürrenstein, some say as +far as Mautern and Krems. The view from this point, either looking up +or down the river, is exceedingly beautiful. The western prospect is +enriched with the castle of Weideneck, the Palace-convent and markt +of Mölk, and the noble mountains of Upper Austria, which here you +gaze on for the last time. Turning and looking into the mouth of the +yawning gorge, the eye is first attracted by the castle and kloster of +Schönbühel, picturesquely situated +<span class="pagenum">239</span> + +on the brink of the precipitous right bank, behind which rise some +gigantic mountains. On the left, a crescent of bold craggy hills, +towering one over the other, checks the northerly inclination of the +mighty flood, and bends it again eastward, while upon one of them the +fine ruin of Aggstein glimmers white in the distance.</p> + +<p>Charlemagne, in the year 803, gave the whole valley of the Wachau +(in terra Avarorum) from the Bielach as far as Tuln, Zeizelmauer +and Perschling, (Tulna, Zysenmurus et Bierstlinga,) to the Bishop +of Passau, and it belonged to Bavaria, at least “in spiritualibus,” +till 1805. Schloss Schönbühel stands, as I have before said, at the +entrance to the valley, upon a wall of granite, from which its own +walls are scarcely distinguishable. Schultes calls it a ruin, but +to me it had the appearance of an inhabited château in excellent +repair. It is a singular-looking building, with a tall, square, but +narrow tower, shooting up from the centre of its western front, more +like a chimney than a turret. Its situation, however, is exceedingly +fine and commanding, and it has the reputation of being <span +class="pagenum">240</span> haunted by no less a spirit than Lucifer +himself, a circumstance which would alone render it interesting to the +romantic tourist. A little beyond it stands an old chapel or kloster, +belonging to the Schloss. In the fourteenth century this place belonged +to the family of Starrhemberg. Having now fairly entered the valley, +we perceived the markt of Aggsbach on the left bank, and facing it, +Klein, or little Aggsbach. In a chasm behind the latter, Haderich von +Meissau, the Kuenringer and marshal of Lower Austria, founded, in 1386, +a convent for thirteen Carthusian Monks, which was suppressed by Joseph +II. in 1782; and on the mountain top, a little beyond the former, +stand the before-mentioned ruins of the Castle of Aggstein. There is +a tradition respecting this castle, of a peculiarly German cast, and +which would work up well in “a tale of terror.” It is said that it was +anciently the hold of a robber knight named Schrekenwald, who, after +seizing and plundering the unfortunate travellers on the Danube, thrust +his wretched captives through an iron door over the rocks into a deep +abyss behind the castle, which +<span class="pagenum">241</span> + he +called his “Little Rose Garden,” and from which (even if by a miracle +they were not dashed to pieces in their fall) the chance of escape +was next to impossible. The tradition is preserved in an Austrian +proverb; when any one is in such a strait as to preclude all hope of +extrication, he is said to be “in Schreckenwald’s Rose-garden.” The +story, however, goes on to say, that, by some extraordinary chance, one +of his intended victims did effect his escape, and with the help of his +friends, who returned with him in arms, surprised, made prisoner, and +hung the monster.</p> + +<p>In the year 1232, Hadmar, the Kuenringer, who was also lord of +Dürrenstein, possessed this castle, and ravaged, in company with +his brother Heinrich von Weitra, the whole country as far as Stein +and Krems. The trembling inhabitants called them “the Hounds,” and +Frederick, the last of the Babenbergers, in vain endeavoured to subdue +and destroy them. A merchant, named Rudiger, at length suggested a +ruse de guerre to the Emperor. “I will freight,” said he, “a vessel +at Regensburg, laden with the most costly merchandise: the <span +class="pagenum">242</span> tidings will soon reach the robbers at +Aggstein. Thirty stout knights shall lie concealed in the vessel, and +when Hadmar rushes down from his castle, and boards us with a few of +his vassals, thinking to plunder some peaceable merchants, the knights +shall rush out upon and overpower him, while I push off from the +shore.” The plan was adopted, and succeeded. The vessel was freighted +at Regensburg, and stopped at Aggstein. Hadmar flung himself into the +snare set for him, and Rudiger and his people, rowing off at the same +moment, brought the robber prisoner to the feet of Frederick.</p> + +<p>In 1277, Luitold Kuenring possessed the castles of Aggstein and +Dürrenstein, but lost them both, with many others, in rebellion against +Albert I., and was banished the country in 1291. From that period its +history is a mere record of bargains and sales, which terminates with +its purchase by a Count of Beroldingen, in 1819.</p> + +<p>The castle is finely situated on the crest of a conical hill, and +the path up to it lies through a thick forest which affords a pleasing +shelter to the noontide traveller, +<span class="pagenum">243</span> + +whom curiosity leads to inspect the ruins. The keys are kept in the +little wirthshaus on the bank below it. Great part of the castle is in +tolerable preservation, at least as far as regards the bare walls; and +the date over the gateway, if Prof. Schultes have rightly copied it, +(for I did not see it myself,) appears to me rather apocryphal. The +inscription runs thus:—</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“Das Purkstall hat ange</span><br> + vangen tze pauen her Jo<br> + rig der Schektvon w<br> + ald der nachten montag<br> + nach unser Frauventag<br> + nativitatis, da von Crist<br> + gpurd waren ergangen<br> + <span class="allsmcap">MCCXXVIII</span> Jar. + <a id="FNank_73" href="#FN_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a>” + </p> +</div> + +<p>Below Schwallenbach, a small markt on the left bank, a rude mass of +barren crags +<span class="pagenum">244</span> + has received the name of +the Teufel’s mauer (Devil’s wall.) This busy “old gentleman” is said +to have taken it into his head to block up the Danube at this spot, +but, through some special intervention of Providence, a sudden stop was +put to the infernal masonry. An echo slumbers here, which, waked by a +pistol-shot, resents the impertinence in a voice of thunder. Having +passed the villages of Ober or Schloss-Arnsdorf, and Mitter-Arnsdorf, +we at length arrived before the markt and castle of Spitz, the towers +of which had been visible from Schwallenbach. Both town and castle +belonged anciently to Bavaria, and they have been in turn the property +of most of the ecclesiastical and lay robbers we have already heard +so much of—the bishops of Passau and Salzburg, the monks of Nieder +Altaich, the Margraves Burkhard and Leopold, Hansen the Kapeller, +Hadmar the Kuenringer, etc. etc. In 1805, Marshal Mortier, who had +narrowly escaped destruction near Dürrenstein, was glad to cross the +Danube at this place by means of a bridge of boats. The old castle +above the little +<span class="pagenum">245</span> + markt is called the +Hinterhaus, and is one of the most picturesque ruins on the river. The +rock it stands upon is of an extraordinary form, black, rugged, and +bare, a gigantic pedestal, worthy of supporting this fine monument of +the middle ages. The church and village of St. Michel, with their old +round towers and crumbling walls, are the next interesting objects. The +precipices upon both banks now assume the most fantastic forms. The +vine has here again made its appearance. Its light green is beautifully +contrasted with the dark firs and pines, and the white barren peaks +that Nature seems to have fashioned in her most eccentric moods.</p> + +<p>As the valley narrows, the rocks rise higher and higher, and the +wild scenery of the Schlägen is for the last time repeated. This savage +glen has long been considered by the peasantry of the neighbourhood +as the haunt of witches and evil spirits; and about thirty years +ago a poor little old woman, who was feeding her goat upon one of +these precipices, was absolutely shot with a glass bullet, for a +wetter-hexe (weather-witch,) a violent thunder-storm which <span +class="pagenum">246</span> had unfortunately arisen being “charged to +her account,” by the superstitious marksman. On emerging from this +gorge—the crowning glory of the romantic scene—the magnificent ruin of +Dürrenstein presents itself on its stupendous rock. Language cannot +do justice to the sublimity of this view, which might task the united +pencils of a Claude and a Salvator Rosa. Independently of its beauty +and grandeur, what recollections crowd upon the mind, as the splendid +picture dawns upon the sight,—Richard Cœur de Lion!—Six hundred years +have past, and the name is still a spell-word to conjure up all the +brightest and noblest visions of the age of chivalry. What glorious +phantoms rise at the sound! Saladin—the great, the valiant, the +generous Saladin, again wheels at the head of his Cavalry—Frederick +Barbarossa, the conqueror of Iconium—the brave but politic Philip of +France—the gallant but unfortunate Marquis of Montferrat! The whole +host of red-cross warriors—the knights of the Temple and St. John—start +again into existence from their graves in the Syrian Deserts, and +their tombs in Christian Europe, +<span class="pagenum">247</span> + +where still their recumbent effigies grasp the sword in stone. The +Lion-hearted Plantagenet once more flourishes with a giant’s strength; +the tremendous battle-axe, whereon “were twenty pounds of steel<a +id="FNank_74" href="#FN_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a>,” around the +nodding broom-plant in his cylindrical helmet, while his implacable +foe, Leopold of Austria, leans frowning on his azure shield; his +surcoat of cloth of silver “dabbled in blood,” that terrible token of +his valour at Ptolemais, which is to this day the blazon of his ancient +house<a id="FNank_75" href="#FN_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a>. Yonder +walls have echoed to the clank of the fetters with which his unknightly +vengeance loaded Richard of England—to the minstrel-moan of “the Lord +of Oc and No<a id="FNank_76" href="#FN_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a>,” +and (for who can coldly +<span class="pagenum">248</span> + pause to +separate such romantic facts from the romance they have inspired) to +the lay of the faithful Blondel, which, wafted by the pitying winds to +his Royal Master’s ear, soothed his captivity, and brightened his hopes +of freedom. Many are the castles on the banks of the Danube pointed +out to the traveller as the prison of Cœur de Lion. Aggstein, which +we have not long passed, Greifenstein, which we are approaching, both +assert a similar claim to our interest, our veneration; and it has +been not improbably conjectured, that Richard was in turn the resident +of each, being secretly removed from fortress to fortress, by his +subtle and malignant captor, in order to baffle the researches of his +friends and followers. Notwithstanding this dispute, Dürrenstein has by +general consent, and long tradition, been established as the principal +place of his confinement; and no one who, with that impression, has +gazed upon its majestic ruins, would thank the sceptic who should +endeavour to disturb his belief. They stand upon a colossal rock, +which rising from a promontory picturesquely terminated by the little +town of Dürrenstein, is +<span class="pagenum">249</span> + singularly +ribbed from top to bottom by a rugged mass of granite indented like a +saw. On each side of this natural barrier, a strip of low wall, with +small towers at equal distances, straggles down the rock, which, thus +divided, is here and there cut towards its base into cross terraces +planted with vines, and in the ruder parts left bare, or patched with +lichens and shrubs of various descriptions. On its naked and conical +crest, as though a piece of the crag itself, rises the keep of the +castle, square, with four square towers at its angles, and not unlike +the fine ruin at Rochester. Had the accomplished Hemans beheld the +scene, her muse could scarcely have better described it.</p> + +<div class="cc"> + <p>“He hath reached a mountain hung with vine,</p> + <p class="center">* * * * * * * * * *</p> + <p> + The feudal towers that crest its height<br> + Frown in unconquerable might;<br> + Dark is their aspect of sullen state,<br> + No helmet hangs o’er the massy gate,<br> + To bid the wearied pilgrim rest,<br> + At the chieftain’s board a welcome guest;<br> + Vainly rich evening’s parting smile<br> + Would chase the gloom of the haughty pile,<br> + That midst bright sunshine lowers on high,<br> + Like a thunder-cloud in a summer sky. + <span class="pagenum">250</span> + </p> + <p class="center">* * * * * * * * * *</p> + <p> + Lingering he gazed—the rocks around<br> + Sublime in savage grandeur frowned;<br> + Proud guardians of the regal flood,<br> + In giant strength the mountains stood;<br> + By torrents cleft, by tempests riven,<br> + Yet mingling still with the calm blue heaven + <a id="FNank_77" href="#FN_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a>.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>The celebrated Denon had a sketch made of this castle and rock, +and sent to Paris expressly for a scene in Gretry’s well-known opera, +“Richard Cœur de Lion.”</p> + +<p>The circumstances of Richard’s quarrel with the Duke of Austria, +and his subsequent arrest and captivity, are too well known to require +insertion here; but, in the Chronicon Zwetlense, t. 1, s. 531, it +is expressly stated that Richard was seized at Erpuch, near Vienna, +(this Erpuch being the present Erdberg, one of the largest of its +many suburbs,) and given, by Leopold, into the custody of Hadmar, +the Kuenringer at Tyernstain (Dürrenstein). The old chronicler, +Haselbach, also says that +<span class="pagenum">251</span> + Richard +came to Vienna as a pilgrim, in a company of cooks, and acted as +turnspit one evening in the kitchen of the Duke of Austria. But a +cook, recognizing his features, informed Leopold, who immediately +commanded Richard to be brought before him, and addressed him in these +words, “Domine Rex Anglorum, nimis nobilis estis, ut sitis assator in +coquina ducis;” after which he delivered him into “Honesta Custodia.” +According to the Chronicon Conradi Cœnobitæ Schyrensis, Richard, after +suffering shipwreck at Aquileia, was betrayed to Leopold by the Duke +of Carinthia. The story of his having betrayed himself, in his passage +through Austria, by his expenses and liberalities, is, however, the +most probable, as well as the best authenticated.</p> + +<p>Dürrenstein is first mentioned about the year 1170, when, in some +deeds, are found the names of Göttschalk and Regenbert von Tirnstain. +In 1192, the year in which Richard was made prisoner, the castle is +known to have belonged to Hadmar, the Kuenringer, who was likewise +the possessor of Aggstein; and, in 1231, it was taken, <span +class="pagenum">252</span> and partially destroyed by Frederick, the +last of the Babenbergers. No events of consequence are recorded to have +taken place in it from that time to the year 1645, when the Swedes +are supposed to have reduced it to its present ruinous condition. The +little town at its foot, with its handsome church<a id="FNank_78" +href="#FN_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>, is prettily situated; and +when, in 1741, a party of French and Bavarian cavalry forded the +Danube, in hopes to surprise it, the citizens hit upon a plan as novel +as ingenious. They barred up their gates as well as they could, laid +logs of firewood on the walls, in imitation of cannon, chalked the +rims of their hats, to give them the appearance of being bound with +white lace, according to the uniform of their troops at that time, and +parading up and down the ramparts with much drumming and bustle, taking +care that their hats only should be seen above the walls, absolutely +induced the enemy to believe that the place was strongly garrisoned; +and they accordingly wheeled to +<span class="pagenum">253</span> + the +right about without firing a shot, to the infinite joy and amusement of +the cunning inhabitants, who certainly well deserved their escape.</p> + +<p>On the 11th of November, 1805, the defiles behind Dürrenstein were +the scene of a murderous conflict between the French, under Mortier +and Dupont, and the Russians, under Doctorof and the Austrian general, +Schmidt. Mortier, who had instructions from Napoleon to march upon +Krems, and was anxious to prevent the Russians passing into Moravia, +hurried forwards with Gazan’s division, and a brigade of dragoons, +being followed, at some distance, by Dupont’s division, and some Dutch +regiments. Below Dürrenstein, he encountered the advance guard of +Miloradowich, which he drove back to the gates of Stein, making a few +prisoners: but this slight success had nearly led to his ruin, for, at +the same instant, another strong corps of Russians, led by Generals +Schmidt and Doctorof, descended the mountains in his rear; and General +Essen, having reinforced Miloradowich, and thrown himself before +Loiben, the French were between +<span class="pagenum">254</span> + two +fires. Mortier had no remedy but to cut his way, if possible, through +the column in his rear, and so effect a junction with Dupont, to whom +he had, fortunately for himself, sent orders to quicken his march. +Major Henriod, at the head of the 100th regiment, charged the Russians, +and a horrible carnage ensued in the narrow defiles, crowded with +infuriated soldiery. Two pieces of artillery, which Mortier had with +him, decided the issue of the combat in his favour, his adversaries +being destitute of cannon. The brave Austrian, Schmidt, fell at the +first discharge; and Doctorof, endeavouring to withdraw his troops +from the ravine, was suddenly attacked, in the rear, by the division +of Dupont, and thus found himself, in his turn, between two fires. +With much difficulty he effected his retreat over the mountain he had +just descended; and the desperate troops of Mortier rushing into the +defile, as they imagined, on the bayonets of their enemies, found +themselves, before they were aware, in the arms of their friends and +countrymen. From twelve to fifteen hundred men were lost on each +side, and the allies received a +<span class="pagenum">255</span> + +terrible blow in the death of General Schmidt, the friend and companion +in arms of the Archduke Charles<a id="FNank_79" href="#FN_79" +class="fnanchor">[79]</a>.</p> + +<p>Below Dürrenstein, the river widens, and a new and cheerful prospect +dawns upon the sight. Three small towns, Stein, Mautern, and Krems, the +two first connected by a bridge, about six hundred and thirty paces +long, across the Danube, present themselves at once to the eye; and +over Mautern, on the right bank, upon a finely-wooded mountain, rise +the towers and cupolas of Kloster Göttweih.</p> + +<p>Mautern was known as early as the time of Charlemagne, and in +898 was called the town of Mutarum, and fortified by Isanrich, the +son of the Markgraf Arbo, when he rose against the Emperor Arnulf. +Arnulf, though in the last stage of illness, laid seige to Mautern, +and took it in the following year, a few months before his death; +but Isanrich succeeded in eluding his conqueror, and sought refuge +in Moravia. Rudolph of Hapsburg gave the same rights and privileges +to Mautern as +<span class="pagenum">256</span> + were enjoyed by +Stein and Krems in reward for its early declaration in his favour. +In 1347, the burghers, having joined their neighbours of Krems in a +cruel persecution of the Jews, were severely punished by Albert II., +and their Lord, the Bishop of Passau, whose <i>Christian</i> zeal had +been rather exuberant, was condemned to pay a fine to the Duke of +six hundred pounds. Matthias Corvinus, the gallant King of Hungary, +gained a victory here over the Austrians in 1484. In 1805, the Russians +under Kutusof retreated before Murat, Lannes, and Soult, over the +bridge at Mautern, and immediately burnt it. It was destroyed again by +the Austrian Field-marshal Hiller in 1809, on the second advance of +Napoleon to Vienna. With the exception of the old gate, through which +the road leads to St. Pölten and Göttweih, little remains to vouch +for the antiquity of the town; and the same may be said of Stein, +under the walls of which we landed,—the gate facing the water, and the +ruins of some old building near the bridge, being all the relics that +“Goth and Time and Turk have spared”—I might add, Hungarian and <span +class="pagenum">257</span> Swede, as Matthias Corvinus stormed it in +1486, and Torstenson in 1645. So exasperated was the latter by the +opposition he met with, that when he at length entered the place, he +took most sanguinary vengeance upon the brave citizens. Stein is little +more than one long, rambling street, over the vile flints of which, as +we entered it, half a dozen poor old women, nearly all upon crutches, +were hobbling in ludicrous haste after a dirty little ragamuffin, who, +bearing the banner of some Saint, very like a red pocket handkerchief, +appeared to enjoy the fruitless attempts of the unfortunate cripples to +keep pace with him. On the young rascal went, at a sort of hand gallop, +while they, like Johnson’s “Panting Time,”</p> + +<p class="center">“Toiled after him in vain.” </p> + +<p>Quitting Stein at the eastern extremity of this long street, a +walk of about ten minutes conducts you through a pretty promenade, +planted with trees, and called the little Präter, to the gates of +Krems, the most considerable of these three small towns. It is first +mentioned in the reign of Otto III. In the year 1347, its kennels +<span class="pagenum">258</span> + ran with Hebrew blood. It was +pretended that the Jews had poisoned the wells of the town; and as +any report, however ridiculous, provided it afforded a pretext to +insult and plunder that unfortunate people, was eagerly and implicitly +believed by the brutal populace, an immediate slaughter took place of +all who refused to acknowledge the divinity of Christ. Many wealthy +Israelites being aware of the real motive of their persecutors, +made their despair minister to their vengeance, and barring up +themselves, their family, and their riches together, set fire to the +building, and perished exultingly in the flames that anticipated the +spoiler. The horrid frenzy extended to Stein, Mautern, and many other +places in the vicinity, and was only allayed by the arrival of the +brave Erbschenk von Meissau who, by command of Albert II., hurried +with a considerable force into the disturbed districts. Krems and +Stein were heavily mulcted, and the neighbouring villages, Loiben, +Strassing, Rattendorf and Weinzierl, plundered by the soldiery of +the blood-stained booty they had acquired. In the fifteenth century, +Krems was twice besieged +<span class="pagenum">259</span> + by Matthias +Corvinus, the last time successfully. On the invasion of Austria by the +Bohemian Protestants in 1619, a corps of the insurgents under their +Colonel, Carpizan, having cut off the garrison of Krems, which had +made a desperate sally from the town, immediately advanced to scale +the now defenceless walls; but the women with one consent, seizing +the first weapons they could find, rushed to the ramparts, and fought +with such steady bravery, that the enemy were at length obliged to +abandon the attempt. To this memorable achievement Ferdinand II. was +in great measure indebted for the preservation of his empire; for +Krems being thus relieved, General Dampierre detached a body of five +hundred horse to Vienna, at that time closely invested by Count Thurn. +The Emperor, reduced to the last extremity, the walls of his palace +battered by the Bohemian cannon, and echoing the reproachful shouts +of his disaffected subjects, had resigned himself to his fate, when +the sudden blast of a trumpet announced the arrival of succour. The +little squadron of horse having secretly descended the Danube, and +entered the +<span class="pagenum">260</span> + capital by the only gate +unguarded by the enemy, was magnified into a mighty host by the fears +of the malcontents, who dispersed in every direction. The friends of +the Emperor took courage, six hundred students flew to arms; their +example was followed by fifteen hundred citizens; additional succours +arrived, and in a few hours all appearance of danger and discontent had +subsided.</p> + +<p>Krems is the seat of what is termed in Austria a kreis-amtes, or +council, having the government of one of the circles of the empire. +Its jurisdiction extends over a fourth of Lower Austria, called +the Viertel, or quarter of Ober-Manhardsberg. The principal public +buildings are the Pfarrekirche, built in 1464, the church of St. +Katharine, remarkable as having been originally a residence of the +knights-templars, a theatre, a gymnasium, and a cassino. The Austrian +epicure is indebted to Krems for excellent mustard, and the sportsman +for superior gunpowder; upwards of forty thousand florins worth of +the former article is yearly made and sold in this town. The mustard +is sent in its natural state from +<span class="pagenum">261</span> + +Znaym, Rausenbruck, and various other parts of Moravia, and boiled +at Krems with unfermented wine, which gives it its peculiar flavour. +In a vineyard near Krems was formerly a well, the water of which was +believed a sovereign specific for all disorders. The neighbouring +capuchins of Und, who were the respectable vouchers for its efficacy, +sold the pure element at a so large a price, that the Emperor +Maximilian I. suddenly discovered the necessity for enacting a law, +whereby the revenue arising from this traffic was transferred from +the coffers of the church into those of the state, which, at the +commencement of his reign, were not so likely to overflow from the +addition.</p> + +<p>Wandering beneath the walls of Krems and Stein, we gazed with +delight upon the beautifully situated monastery of Göttweih. A short +distance from the right bank behind Mautern, this immense building +stretched itself along the brow of a lofty, isolated mountain, clothed +with waving woods, in the rich liveries of autumn, its countless +windows splendidly illuminated by the descending sun. It <span +class="pagenum">262</span> dates no further back than the commencement +of the eighteenth century, when it was built upon the site of an +ancient kloster, originally founded by Altmann, Bishop of Passau, +in 1083. There is a spring shown at the foot of the mountain, where +this turbulent prelate, then only a student in theology, entered +into a compact with Adalbert, afterwards Bishop of Wurzburg, and +Gebhard, afterwards Bishop of Salzburg, by which they bound themselves +to rise against the Emperor Henry IV., so soon as they should be +appointed to their several sees!—an extraordinary agreement which they +religiously fulfilled; and having succeeded in stirring up his own son +to rebellion, compelled the unfortunate monarch, after a desperate +struggle, to resign his crown at Ratisbon. Altmann, however, was not +permitted to witness the triumph of his party; the enraged Emperor +deprived him of his bishopric in 1085, and he died six years afterwards +in exile at Zieselmauer.</p> + +<p>Below Stein the Danube forms another archipelago, and during +the remainder of a lovely evening, we glided between the <span +class="pagenum">263</span> thickly-wooded islands, catching at long +intervals a momentary glimpse of the red-tipped steeple of one of the +many insignificant villages which here line the main banks of the +river, now as flat and uninteresting as they were between Aschach and +Ottensheim. The current at length leading us near the right bank, +we passed the markt and ruin of Holenburg; the latter, during the +fifteenth century, the stronghold of two redoubted pirates, named +Frohnauer and Vettau,—Wagram, (not the famous Wagram, there are six +Wagrams in Austria,) St. Georgen, where Ulrich, Bishop of Passau, in +1109-12, built a celebrated kloster called St. Georg auf der Insel and +Trasenmauer, at the mouth of the river Trasen, where, according to the +Nibelungen-lied, Etzel,</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “—— The King of Hunnen-land<br> + Had a Castle wide<br> + Y called Traisenmauer + <a id="FNank_80" href="#FN_80" class="fnanchor"> + [80]</a>.” +</p> +</div> + +<p>Nearly facing the mouth of the Trasen, the little river Kamp +discharges itself into the Danube, and, on doubling a small point of +land, the village of Zwentendorf +<span class="pagenum">264</span> + +appeared on the right bank, and the mountains of the Wiener-Wald, +arising in the distance, announced the vicinity of the capital. It +was impossible, however, to reach it that evening, and therefore +making for the little town of Tuln that lay directly before us in a +sort of bay, we landed under the walls of a spacious building, the +mutilated colossal statues of saints, prelates, and monarchs, in front +of which, bore testimony to its former grandeur, and groping our way +through a narrow passage, emerged into the court-yard behind it, +where stood the wretched auberge, in which our steersman informed us +we must pass the night. To our great relief, however, a red-elbowed, +yellow-haired, blue-stockinged, round-about <i>mädchen</i>, seizing +a candle and a huge bunch of keys, recrossed the court with us +towards the great building, and opening a postern door, which Mrs. +Radcliffe would have worshipped, led the way up a winding staircase +into a long gallery, hung with paintings of martyrdoms and miracles, +fubsy virgins, and chubby cherubs, fat abbots, and fair nuns; and +ushered us into a wilderness of a chamber, furnished with <span +class="pagenum">265</span> one table and sixteen beds! The astonishment +of our guide must be imagined when my companion requested yet another +room. The idea of separate chambers never entering her head, she +naturally enough supposed that sixteen beds would surely be sufficient +for two persons. However, as there was no accounting for the whims +of foreigners, and as no other travellers were likely to arrive, she +found another apartment for my friend, containing nine beds, and, with +a stare of amazement I shall not speedily forget, after furnishing us +with some coffee and another candle, left us to sleep in any or all of +our twenty-five beds, as we might eventually determine. On mentioning +this circumstance afterwards to a Viennese, I was assured that, had a +larger company arrived, the remaining fifteen beds in my chamber would +have been unceremoniously occupied by men or women, as it might have +happened; for, as he remarked to me, with the greatest coolness, “how +would the poor people, who possess but two or three good rooms, be +otherwise enabled to accommodate forty or fifty persons of both sexes, +as they are +<span class="pagenum">266</span> + frequently called upon +to do?” Whether the building itself was the Nonnen-Kloster founded by +Rudolph of Hapsburg, in gratitude for his victory over Ottocar, or +the old Schloss, in which, every Monday, at midnight, the ghosts of +a lady and her maid are in the habit of promenading<a id="FNank_81" +href="#FN_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>, I am to this moment ignorant. +If the latter, it being Thursday, the ghosts were not on duty. The +Lady-Moon alone peeped through the long narrow casements; the murmur +of the stream that ran rapidly beneath them, was the only sound that +mingled with my dreams.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- C H A P T E R VIII. --> +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">267</span> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> +</div> + +<div class="hang"> +<p>Tuln. — Langenlebern. — Greifenstein. — Story of Etelina. — Korneuburg. — The +Bisamberg. — Kloster Neuburg. — Leopoldsberg, and the Khalenberg. — A glimpse +of the capital. — Nusdorf. — Arrival at Vienna. — Bird’s-eye view and +description of the environs from the Temple of Glory in the Brühl.</p> +</div> + +<p>The chronicler Hagen says, that before Vienna was built, Tuln was +the capital of Austria. There is no doubt it was a place of some +consequence even in the time of the Romans. In the year 1813, a great +number of silver coins of the reigns of Vespasian, Domitian, Nerva, +and Trajan, were found in its neighbourhood. Attila is said to have +experienced a defeat here, and upwards of forty thousand Huns in one +battle to have found “the way to dusty death.” Its authentic history +commences, however, in the reign of Charlemagne, who gave the place +to Passau in 803. Under the successors of Charlemagne, Tuln was the +residence of their Grenz-Grafen, or Counts of the Border; and in +985, Henry II, Duke of Bavaria, held a Landtag or Assembly <span +class="pagenum">268</span> of the States at Tuln, at which the Duke +of Carinthia, the Pfalzgraf Berchtold, the Markgraf of Austria, and +the Counts of Bavaria, appeared, and decided the claim of the Bishop +of Passau to a linn-fishery in the neighbourhood. The Hungarians, in +the winter of 1042, surprised and burnt the town, but were, by the +Markgraves Albert and Gottfried, repulsed and pursued over the Leytna; +and the whole tract of country between Khalenberg and that river, was +wrested from them for ever. In 1592, Tuln became the asylum of those +who fled before the triumphant Botskai, on whose head the minister of +Achmet had placed the ancient diadem of the despots of Servia, and who, +though he refused the proffered titles of King of Hungary and Prince +of Transylvania, terrified the feeble Emperor Rodolph by planting the +victorious standards of those revolted provinces within sight of the +walls of Presburg.</p> + +<p>In 1683, the celebrated Sobieski joined, with his twenty-six +thousand Poles, the troops collected here for the relief of Vienna, +then invested by the Turks under Kara +<span class="pagenum">269</span> + +Mustapha. The Emperor Leopold, driven to despair, wrote himself to the +King of Poland, imploring him to hasten to his assistance, without +waiting for his army. “My troops,” said he, “are now assembling. The +bridge over the Danube is already constructed at Tuln, to afford you +a passage. Place yourself at their head, however inferior in number; +your name alone, so terrible to the enemy, will ensure a victory!” +Sobieski, flattered by this entreaty, issued orders to his army to +follow him; and, at the head of thirty-one thousand horse, traversed +Silesia and Moravia with the rapidity of a Tartar horde, but, on his +arrival at Tuln, found the bridge unfinished, and no troops, except a +corps under the Duke of Lorraine. “Does the Emperor consider me as an +adventurer?” exclaimed the disappointed monarch. “I quitted my army +to command his. It is not for myself, but for him, that I fight.” +Pacified, however, by the representations of the Duke of Lorraine, +he awaited the arrival of his own army, which reached the Danube on +the 5th of September, and the junction of the German succours was +completed +<span class="pagenum">270</span> + on the 7th. Eight thousand +Swabians and Franconians, twenty thousand Saxons and Bavarians, led +by their Electors, swelled the allied German army to the number of +sixty thousand men. On the night of the 11th, the preconcerted signals +revived the spirits of the garrison and citizens of Vienna; and, +on the morning of the memorable 12th of September, they descried, +with rapture, the Christian standards floating on the summit of the +Khalenberg!</p> + +<p>To the romantic traveller, Tuln is endeared as the spot where the +mighty Etzel met his matchless bride. Four and twenty princes were in +the train of this powerful monarch, and twelve of the noblest received +the priceless guerdon of a kiss from the lips of Chrimhilt. Lances were +shivered, and harps were swept, in honour of the day. A thousand marks +rewarded the royal minstrels, Swemmel and Werbel, and the largess, to +herald and serf, was worthy the hand of the richest and most powerful +sovereign</p> + +<p class="indent1">“From the Rhone unto the Rhine—from the Elbe unto the sea.”</p> + +<p>With spirits elevated by a morning of unequalled <span +class="pagenum">271</span> beauty, and hearts throbbing with +expectation, as every dip of the oar brought us nearer and nearer to +the Austrian capital, the spires of which, we fondly imagined, would +rise to our view at each new bend of the river, we floated down the +broad and glittering stream, now clear of islands, and hurrying to +bathe the craggy feet of the advancing Wiener-Wald.</p> + +<p>Passing the long straggling village of Langenlebern, or, as it is +otherwise called, Ober and Unter Aigen, where there was formerly a +considerable establishment of gold-washers, (the waves of the Danube, +like those of Pactolus, rolling sands rich with grains of the precious +metal,) the splendour of sunrise appeared to change the whole flood +into molten ore, and realize the wildest dreams of those modern +Chrysorrohæ<a id="FNank_82" href="#FN_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a>. +Below Langenlebern, on the +<span class="pagenum">272</span> + right +bank, is the ancient village of Zeiselmauer, (supposed to be the +Cetia of the Romans,) and celebrated as the birth-place of our old +acquaintance, St. Florian. Here, in 1092, the rebel Bishop of Passau, +Altmann, died, as I have before mentioned, in exile. We now rapidly +approached the Riederberge, or mountains of the Wiener-Wald, as the +forest-covered hills, that here overlook the Danube and Vienna, are +indifferently called. Fragments of this rocky chain now lined the +right bank of the river, which, for the first time since our leaving +Ratisbon, surpassed the left in boldness and beauty. On one of these +fragments rose the ruin of Greifenstein, one of the oldest castles +in Austria, now the property of Prince Lichtenstein, who, having a +great fancy for ruins, expends considerable sums in keeping up such +as yet stand upon his estates, and in building new ruins, where +there is a deficiency of old. In the Priel, or Brühl, near Vienna, +are several of these modern antiques, on which the venerable pile +of the old family castle of Lichtenstein looks down, with as much +contempt, as a resuscitated Norman crusader would upon his <span +class="pagenum">273</span> tinsel-clad theatrical representatives. +Greifenstein was last ruined by the Swedes in 1645, and is one of the +castles named as having been the prison of Richard Cœur de Lion; nay, +they even show an iron cage here, in which he is said to have been +cooped. The ruins are reported to be haunted by an old white woman, and +a legion of</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Black spirits and white,<br> + Red spirits and grey,” + </p> +</div> + +<p> who do her awful bidding. This tradition has probably arisen +from the circumstance of its last inhabitant having been an ancient +gentlewoman, the Lady Bountiful of the neighbourhood, who devoted all +her time to the cure of disorders, and was so generally successful +in the treatment of her numerous patients, that she was at length +suspected of possessing supernatural power. At her death, therefore, +instead of canonizing her, as in duty bound, the ungrateful peasantry +have converted the kind-hearted old lady, who was certainly “a spirit +of health,” into “a goblin damned;” and they are less excusable, as +the castle is not in want of such an attraction, the <i>terrein</i> +<span class="pagenum">274</span> + being already occupied by as romantic +a spectre as ever revisited “the glimpses of the moon, making night +hideous!” The legend indeed attached to those venerable walls, is one +of the most interesting on the Danube, and I cannot account for its +omission by the diligent Schultes. Thus it runs:—</p> + +<p>As early as the eleventh century the Lords of Greifenstein were +famed and feared throughout Germany. One of the first knights who +bore that name, lost his lady soon after she had presented him with a +daughter, who received the name of Etelina. The dying mother, painfully +aware how little attention would be paid to the education of a female +by a rude and reckless father, half knight, half freebooter, however +fond he might be of his child, had recommended her infant, with her +last breath, to the care of a kind and pious monk, the chaplain of +the castle; and under his affectionate guidance, the pretty playful +girl gradually ripened into the beautiful and accomplished woman. Sir +Reinhard of Greifenstein, though stern, turbulent, and unlettered +himself, was, nevertheless, +<span class="pagenum">275</span> + sensible +to the charms and intelligence of his daughter; and often as he parted +her fair hair and kissed her ivory forehead, before he mounted the +steed or entered the bark, that waited to bear him to the hunt or +the battle, a feeling of which he was both proud and ashamed would +moisten his eye and subdue a voice naturally harsh and grating, into +a tone almost of tenderness. On his return, weary and sullen, from a +fruitless chase or a baffled enterprise, the song of Etelina could +banish the frown from his brow, when even the wine-cup had been thrust +untasted away, and the favourite hound beaten for a mistimed gambol. +So fair a flower, even in the solitary castle of Greifenstein, was +not likely to bloom unknown or unsought. The fame of Etelina’s beauty +spread throughout the land. Many a noble knight shouted her name as +his bright sword flashed from the scabbard, and many a gentle squire +fought less for his gilt spurs, than the smile of Etelina. The minstrel +who sang her praises had aye the richest largess, and the little-foot +page who could tell where she might be met with in the summer’s <span +class="pagenum">276</span> twilight, clinging to the arm of the +silver-haired chaplain, might reckon on a link of his master’s chain of +gold for every word he uttered. But the powerful and the wealthy sighed +at her feet in vain—she did not scorn them, for so harsh a feeling was +unknown to the gentle Etelina. Nay, she even wept over the blighted +hopes of some, whose fervent passion deserved a better fate; but her +heart was no longer hers to give. She had fixed her affections upon the +poor but noble Rudolph, and the lovers awaited impatiently some turn of +fortune which would enable them to proclaim their attachment without +fear of the anger and opposition of Sir Reinhard, who was considerably +annoyed by Etelina’s rejection of many of the richest Counts and Barons +of Germany.</p> + +<p>Business of importance summoned the old knight to the court of +the Emperor. His absence, prolonged from month to month, afforded +frequent opportunities of meeting to the lovers; and the venerable +monk, on whom the entire charge of the castle and its inhabitants had +devolved at Sir Reinhard’s departure, was one evening struck dumb +<span class="pagenum">277</span> + with terror, by the confession which +circumstances at length extorted from the lips of Etelina! Recovered +from the first shock, however, his affection for his darling pupil +seemed only increased, by the peril into which passion had plunged +her. In the chapel of the castle, he secretly bestowed the nuptial +benediction upon the imprudent pair, and counselled their immediate +flight and concealment, till his prayers and tears should wring +forgiveness and consent from Sir Reinhard, who was now on his return +home, accompanied by a wealthy nobleman, on whom he had determined +to bestow the hand of his daughter. Scarcely had Rudolph and Etelina +reached the cavern in the neighbouring wilderness, selected for their +retreat by the devoted old man, who had furnished them with provisions, +a lamp and some oil, promising to supply them from time to time with +the means of existence, as occasions should present themselves, +when the rocks of the Danube rang with the well-known blast of Sir +Reinhard’s trumpet, and a broad banner lazily unfolding itself to the +morning breeze, displayed to the sight of the wakeful warden the two +<span class="pagenum">278</span> + red griffins rampant in a field vert, +the blazon of the far-feared Lords of Greifenstein<a id="FNank_83" +href="#FN_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a>. In a few moments the old +knight was galloping over the drawbridge, followed by his intended +son-in-law.</p> + +<p>The clatter of their horses’ hoofs struck upon the heart of the +conscious chaplain, as though the amimals themselves were trampling +on his bosom; but he summoned up his resolution, and relying on his +sacred character, met his master with a firm step and a calm eye, in +the hall of the castle. Evading a direct answer to the first inquiry +for Etelina, he gradually and cautiously informed Sir Reinhard of +her love, her marriage, and her flight. Astonishment for a short +space held the old warrior spell bound, but when his gathered fury +at last found vent, the wrath of the whirlwind was less terrible. He +seized the poor old monk by the throat, and upon his firm refusal +to reveal the retreat of the culprits, dashed him to the earth, had +him bound hand and foot, and flung into a pit beneath an iron <span +class="pagenum">279</span> grating in the floor of the donjon or keep +of the castle<a id="FNank_84" href="#FN_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a>. +Tearing, like an infuriated Pasha, “his very beard for ire,” he called +down curses on Etelina and her husband, and prayed that, if ever he +forgave them, a dreadful and sudden death might overtake him on the +spot where he should revoke the malediction he now uttered! Upwards of +a year had elapsed when, one winter-day, the knight of Greifenstein, +pursuing the chase, lost his way in the mazes of a wilderness on the +banks of the Danube. A savage-looking being, half clothed in skins, +conducted him to a cavern, in which a woman similarly attired was +seated on the ground, with an infant on her knees, and greedily gnawing +the bones of a wolf.—Sir Reinhard recognised in the squalid form before +him his once beautiful Etelina.—Shocked to the soul at the sight of +the misery to which his severity had reduced her, he silently motioned +to the huntsmen, +<span class="pagenum">280</span> + who came straggling +in upon his track to remove the wretched pair and their poor little +offspring to the castle. Moved by the smiles of his innocent and +unconscious grandchild, he clasped his repentant daughter to his bosom, +as she re-crossed the threshold, bore her up into the banquet-hall, +and consigning her to the arms of her faithful Rudolph, hastened down +again to release with his own hands the true-hearted monk, who still +languished in captivity. In descending the steep staircase, his foot +slipped, and he was precipitated to the bottom—his fall was unseen—his +cry was unheard—dying, he dragged himself a few paces along the +pavement, and expired upon the very spot where he had just embraced +and forgiven his daughter. Rudolph, now Lord of Greifenstein, restored +the chaplain to liberty, and lived long and happily with his beloved +Etelina; but the spirit of Sir Reinhard to this day wanders about the +ruins of his ancestral castle, and will continue so to do till the +stone whereon he expired shall be worn in twain. “Alas! poor ghost!” +the very slight hollow which is at present perceivable in it, affords +you +<span class="pagenum">281</span> + little hope of its division by +fair means previously to the general “<i>crack</i> of doom.”</p> + +<p>Near the village of Höfelein, the river suddenly wheels to the +south, and the last grand picture of the series opens before you. On +the left is the little town of Korneuburg, backed by the vine-covered +Bisamberg, and embosomed in beautiful groves and orchards. On the +right, arise the gilded domes of Kloster-Neuburg, and far above them, +in the blue distance, tower the colossal Khalenberge, “the watchmen +of Vienna,” crowned with their churches, and terminating a chain of +alps and mountains, that, stretching across Southern Europe, links +the Danube with the Gulph of Genoa. There was something peculiarly +exciting in the scene. I was floating upon waves that were rushing +to the Euxine, and gazing upon a line of hills that extended to the +Mediterranean. I could almost fancy the clash of Turkish cymbals, +mingled with the murmur of the water, while the sound of mandolin and +castagnet was faintly wafted on the breeze from the land. The former +flight may, at least, be forgiven me in such a situation; for these +shores have +<span class="pagenum">282</span> + but too often echoed the +wild marches of the Ottoman, and the trembling waves reflected the +glittering crescent. The black horse-tails of many a proud Pasha have +streamed insultingly from yonder heights, the sable heralds of death +and desolation. The “high-capped Tartar” has here “spurred his steed +away,” and the shout of</p> + +<p class="center"> + “God and the Prophet!—Allah hu!” +</p> + +<p>shaken like an earthquake the throne of the Cæsars.</p> + +<p>Korneuburg is the seat of the Kreis-amtes for the quarter of +Unter-Manhardsberg. In 1306, it was the scene of one of those horrid +massacres, which invariably, during the middle ages, cancelled the +debts of Christendom to the House of Israel. The same blasphemous +falsehood, which thirty years afterwards deluged the streets of +Deggendorf with Hebrew blood, was here made the pretence for burning +alive all the unfortunate Jews in the place. The Emperor Frederick IV. +here met his deliverer, George Podiebrad, King of Bohemia, A.D. 1462, +whose prompt assistance compelled Albert of Austria, the Emperor’s +brother, +<span class="pagenum">283</span> + to raise the siege of +Vienna, (in the citadel of which Frederick was shut up with only +two hundred men,) to restore the towns, fortresses and countries he +had taken possession of during this unnatural contest, and pay an +annual sum of four thousand ducats to the Emperor for the government +of Lower Austria. In 1477, Korneuburg was besieged by Matthias +Corvinus; and the brave Austrian commandant, Enenkel, received his +death-wound from an arrow that entered an embrasure through which +he was reconnoitring the enemy. It was again besieged by Corvinus +in 1484, and stood out till the very vermin of the town became the +food of the famished garrison; and in the seventeenth century, the +Swedes, who had taken and shut themselves up in the place, after an +equally stubborn resistance, capitulated upon honourable terms. On +the Bisamberg, which rises behind it, are the finest vineyards in +the neighbourhood of Vienna. The wine they yield is considered the +best of what are called the Danube wines; the next in celebrity are +Kloster-Neuburger, Grinzinger, (a very pleasant wine,) Maurer, and +Brunner, all +<span class="pagenum">284</span> + grown on the right bank. +On the summit of the Bisamberg, formerly stood the old castle of the +knights of Pucinperche, or Busenberge, and near it rises the little +Büsenbach, that ripples through three channels into the Danube. At its +foot is Lang-Enzersdorf, the first post station from Vienna on the +road to Prague. Part of Kara-Mustapha’s army crossed the Danube here +during the siege of Vienna, and reduced the place to ashes. Nearly +opposite to Lang-Enzersdorf, stands the unfinished but magnificent +Kloster-Neuburg, and the little town to which it has given its name<a +id="FNank_85" href="#FN_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a>. The Kloster was +originally founded by Leopold the Saint, in consequence of his wife’s +veil, which had been blown away as she was walking on the Khalenberg, +being wafted to this spot, and discovered some time after, hanging +on an elder-tree, by one of the Markgraf’s hounds!—So miraculous and +interesting an occurrence was deemed worthy of commemoration. A convent +was immediately built and endowed by the pious Markgraf; and <span +class="pagenum">285</span> the monks enshrined the elder-tree in gold +wire-work, and imitated its blossoms with pearls<a id="FNank_86" +href="#FN_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a>. Our boat now passed under +the precipices of the Leopoldsberg. The two last mountains of the +Wiener-Wald have both received the appellation of Khalenberg or +Kalte-Berg. But the ancient Khalenberg is now known by the name of the +Leopoldsberg, and by the Khalenberg is generally understood the former: +Josephsberg, the second mountain from the bank of the Danube.</p> + +<p>On the summit of the present Leopoldsberg, originally stood the +Castle of Leopold the Saint; and from that castle, long before +Vienna was built, the Markgraf issued to hunt in the neighbouring +forests, and sometimes pursued his game over the plain whereon the +capital of Austria now spreads its interminable suburbs. In 1291, +Albert I., Duke of Austria, sought refuge in this fortress from the +revolted citizens of Vienna; and summoning reinforcements <span +class="pagenum">286</span> from Swabia, cut off all aid and provisions +from the rebels, and compelled them at last to an unconditional +surrender. The principal magistrates came bare-headed and bare-footed, +to his camp, and in their presence he tore up the charters of the city, +and abrogated all those privileges which he deemed injurious to his +authority. During the reign of Albert III., the castle fell into decay, +and lay in ruins nearly fifty years, when it was rebuilt by Albert +V. Ruined again by the wars of the fifteenth century, the Emperor +Leopold I. determined to erect upon its site a chapel, in honour of +his ancestor and patron. Before the work was completed, however, the +Turks had burst into Austria, and during the siege of Vienna, destroyed +the unfinished chapel as well as the few remaining walls of the old +castle. The Saxons, who fought in the left wing of the army of relief, +carried the Turkish positions on this mountain by storm, and drove +them with much slaughter out of the ruins in which they had entrenched +themselves. On the flight of the infidels, Leopold recommenced +building his chapel, but it was finished by his son Charles VI., under +<span class="pagenum">287</span> + the superintendence of the Italian +architect Beluzzi, who also built a palace near it by the Emperor’s +order, and twelve years afterwards erected the present church upon the +site of the chapel. The monks of Kloster-Neuburg, who had installed +themselves in these edifices, were afterwards expelled by Joseph II.<a +id="FNank_87" href="#FN_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a>, and the church +and palace became the property of Prince de Ligne, the historian. His +highness considerably improved the grounds about it, and it has become +a favourite resort of the Viennese, who flock up the mountain on a +fine summer day, to enjoy the magnificent prospect from its summit, +or from the little Belvedere that overhangs the Danube. On <span +class="pagenum">288</span> the outside of the building in which the +prince resided, are several inscriptions; amongst others his favourite +motto,</p> + +<p> + <span class="indent2">“Quo res cumque cadunt, semper stat + linea recta;”</span> +</p> + +<p>and the words</p> + +<p> + <span class="indent2">“Château de mon refuge.”</span> +</p> + +<p>On the side facing the Danube are the following truly French +lines, in allusion to the various fortunes which have attended the +building.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“Margraves, Polonais, Turcs et + Saints, tour à tour,</span><br> + Rendirent autrefois célèbre ce séjour;<br> + C’est à présent celui de la philosophie,<br> + Du calme de l’esprit, du bonheur de la vie.<br> + Notre ame s’aggrandit par des grands souvenirs,<br> + <i>Mais la meilleure histoire est celui des plaisirs</i>.<br> + Sans remords, sans regrets, sans crainte et sans envie<br> + La nature se montre en son bel appareil<br> + Et l’on se croit ici favori du soleil.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>On the ceiling of the Belvedere is inscribed</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Optimis Vindobonensibus<br> + Carolus Princeps de Ligne.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>On the Khalenberg, as the Josephsberg is now called, stands +what was formerly a monastery, founded by Ferdinand II. in 1628. +Leopold I. re-established it after the siege of Vienna; Joseph I. +enlarged, and Joseph II. suppressed it. Like the building on the +Leopoldsberg, it was purchased by the Prince de Ligne, and is a <span +class="pagenum">289</span> point of <i>réunion</i> for the holiday +makers of the capital.</p> + +<p>Below the Leopoldsberg, the Danube is divided into three large +branches, and on entering the southern branch the great dark spire of +St. Stephen’s suddenly appeared between the trees on the left bank, +and other spires and domes gliding gradually into view, we looked at +length upon Vienna! Impatiently did we pace the bank at Nussdorf, a +little village on the right of the stream, about an hour’s journey +from the walls of the city, where all boats are obliged to stop till +passports are examined, and permission given to proceed to what is +called the Schanzel landing-place, near the Ferdinand’s Brüche (Bridge +of Ferdinand.) Nearly an hour and a half were we detained at this +place, within sight of the goal we were burning to reach. The papers at +length arrived; our crew once more plied their paddles, and through the +crowd of boats moored on each side of the river, we advanced slowly, +catching occasional glimpses of new buildings and towers, as they +appeared between the tall stacks of firewood that line the banks of +this arm of +<span class="pagenum">290</span> + the Danube. Suddenly we +found ourselves under the walls of the city, and about twenty minutes +afterwards, having followed a custom-house officer to the <i>mauth</i> +of the Schanzel, where our baggage underwent strict examination, +we entered the gates, the way to our hotel being marshalled by +a good-natured Italian, who had volunteered his services at the +custom-house. Previously, however, to quitting the boat, the three +poor women, whom we had taken on board at Marsbach, perceiving their +journey ended, requested to know what they had to pay. On being, with +some difficulty, made to understand that they were perfectly welcome +to their passage, their joy was extravagant. They clapped their own +hands, and kissed ours repeatedly, (the usual mode of expressing thanks +in Austria,) and with a chorus of “Das ist schön! Das ist schön<a +id="FNank_88" href="#FN_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a>!” shouldered their +heavy bundles, and shuffled away in high glee.</p> + +<p>Preceded by our Italian guide, and followed by the two +steersmen and their crew carrying our luggage, we bustled <span +class="pagenum">291</span> through the crowded streets of Vienna, +and crossing the square, in the centre of which stands the fine old +cathedral of St. Stephen, entered the Weyburg Gasse, and were soon +comfortably installed in the Hotel of the Kaiserinn von Osterreich +(the Empress of Austria.) Gentle reader, I have now landed you, with +myself, safely in Vienna. Do not imagine, because I have been, perhaps, +tediously minute in my descriptions up to this period, that I am about +to enter upon a long-winded geographical, statistical, historical +account of “the habitation of the Cæsars.” We are now upon beaten +ground, and even presuming that you are unacquainted with it, there are +dozens of guides much better calculated to do the honours and show the +lions of Vienna than your humble servant.</p> + +<p>I shall therefore take the liberty, before I make my final bow, and +hand you over to the acute Russel, the pleasant Ramblers in Germany, +either military or musical—the caustic author of ‘Austria as it is,’ or +any other intelligent tourist—to waft you at once to the pinnacle of +a steep hill in that gorge of the Wienerwald called the Brühl <span +class="pagenum">292</span> or the Priel, behind the very ancient and +picturesque little town of Möhdling. There you are—on the steps of the +“Temple of Glory,” a handsome Doric building erected by the present +Prince Lichtenstein to the memory of the brave hussars who rescued him, +at the expense of their lives, from the French in the battle of Wagram. +On the wall of a vault, beneath the building, where their bodies are +deposited, is the following affecting inscription:—“Softly repose upon +this height, precious remains of the valiant Austrian warriors, who +fell, covered with glory, at Aspern and Wagram. Your friend is not +able to reanimate the lifeless bodies. To honour them is his duty<a +id="FNank_89" href="#FN_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a>.”</p> + +<p>As he turns from perusing these lines, as honourable to the dictator +of them as to the brave men to whom they allude, the moistened eye +of the stranger wanders over the immense prospect below him, and +falls upon the very scene of their valour and their death. Yonder +stretches the wide plain upon which the fate of Austria<span +class="pagenum">293</span> has been twice decided. Rudolph of Hapsburg, +the founder of its noble house, there wrested the duchy and the crown: +of the empire from Ottokar, king of Bohemia, on August 26th, A.D. +1278.</p> + +<p>On the 5th of July, five hundred and thirty-one years afterwards, +the descendant of Rudolph saw that duchy and crown at the mercy of an +adventurer, who had, for the second time, driven him from his capital, +and now threatened the utter extinction of his dynasty. There is the +celebrated island of Lobau, out of which, after its critical escape, +the French army crossed the Danube amid night and storm, by the +dreadful light of the blazing town of Enzersdorf, into the plain of +Morava, the destined arena of that decisive combat.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“All was prepared—the fire, the + sword, the men</span><br> + To wield them in their terrible array.<br> + The army, like a lion from his den,<br> + Marched forth with nerve and sinews bent to slay,—<br> + A human Hydra, issuing from its fen<br> + To breathe destruction on its winding way.<br> + <span class="center">* * * * * * * * * * </span> + The night was dark, and the thick mist allowed<br> + Nought to be seen save the artillery’s flame,<br> + Which arched the horizon like a fiery cloud,<br> + And in the Danube’s waters shone the same—<br> + A mirrored Hell! The volleying roar, and loud<br> + Long booming of each peal on peal, o’ercame<span class="pagenum">294 + </span><br>The ear far more than thunder, for Heaven’s flashes<br> + Spare or smite rarely—Man’s make millions ashes!”<br><br> + <span class="right"><span class="smcap">Don Juan</span>, Canto 8, st. 2. 6.</span> + </p> +</div> + +<p>There are the little villages of Essling, Aspern, and Wagram, whose +names, like those of the still more insignificant hamlets of Blenheim +and Waterloo, are ineffaceably inscribed on the tablets of Fame, though +scarcely to be distinguished in the map of Europe. Do you mark that +white building a little on this side of the city, looking, from the +height on which we stand, like the card-house of an infant? The sun now +falls upon something like a triumphal arch, on an elevation immediately +behind it—that is Schönbrunn, with its well-known Gloriette. In that +palace, is a fair-haired boy, the son of the victor in that terrible +fight, and of the daughter of the vanquished. To that fight he owes +his existence. Its issue enabled a low-born Corsican to dictate terms +to one of the most powerful monarchs in the world, and mingle his +blood with that of a line of emperors. Let us turn from these scenes +of strife and “vaulting ambition, which o’erleaps itself,” to the +forest-covered hills around, and the lovely vallies beneath us. At +the foot of that mountain +<span class="pagenum">295</span> + lie the +sulphur-baths of Baden, and beside them opens the beautiful Helen-thal, +at the mouth of which resides the brave and popular Archduke Charles, +the gallant, though unsuccessful, opponent of Napoleon. His chateau is +named Wildburg, in honour of his Archduchess, a princess of the House +of Nassau-Wildburg. There is scarcely any garden-ground belonging to +it, and he, therefore, good-naturedly makes a garden of the whole +valley, and gives the public the benefit of it.</p> + +<p>Every morning, during the season, the visiters of this fashionable +watering-place flock by dozens to a farm-house, belonging to the Baron +von Dopplehof, where they eat the best bread in Europe, and sip coffee, +diluted with most delicious milk, furnished by fifty Styrian cows, all +of that light dun colour which particularly distinguishes the race. +The day is divided between the bath and the shades of the Helen-thal; +and, as evening advances, the gay groups saunter back along the banks +of the rivulet that brawls through this romantic glen, and drop +leisurely into the pretty little theatre of Baden. Russel has <span +class="pagenum">296</span> drawn an animated and faithful picture of +this spot. I shall, therefore, only mention a ridiculous circumstance +which occurred here a few years ago. The old wooden bridge over the +rivulet I have just mentioned, had been replaced by one of cast iron; +and the completion of this work being an important era for the little +town, a procession was formed to open the bridge, and the whole +neighbourhood collected on and round it to witness the ceremony. One +of the Archdukes (Anthony, I believe) headed the cortege, and, after +it had passed over, the burgomaster, standing in the centre of the +bridge, harangued the spectators. His speech was a model for succeeding +burgomasters, to fashion their orations by. The crowd pressed nearer +and nearer to listen, and be edified. The worthy officer warmed with +his subject; he became absolutely figurative. “Our gratitude, our +attachment (exclaimed he, in a transport of loyalty) to the illustrious +House of Hapsburg, shall remain firm and unshaken as this bridge!” +but, before he had well finished his sentence, down went bridge, +burgomaster, and audience, into +<span class="pagenum">297</span> + the +water. Whether naturally sinking under the weight of the crowd, or +kicked down by Lucifer himself, who, a rebel from the first, might +have enjoyed the consternation attendant on so ominous a coincidence, +remains to be determined. A clumsy bridge of stone now spans the little +stream of the Schwächat. To the left, almost immediately beneath us, +upon a green knoll, surrounded by gardens, stands the venerable ruin +of Lichtenstein, the castle of the ancient princes of that name; +and, facing it, the modern chateau of their descendants. The old +walls are in good preservation, and the various apartments clearly +distinguishable. The chamber of justice, into which the criminal was +drawn up by a rope from the prison beneath it, through a hole in the +floor; the prison itself, with its iron rings and staples; and the +banquet hall, now hung with full-length portraits of the family, (none +of them, by the way, painted earlier than the sixteenth century, though +some profess to represent persons who lived in the fourteenth,) are +all exceedingly interesting. Beyond it, on the bank of the river, lies +the broad city, +<span class="pagenum">298</span> + the huge cathedral +shooting up its dark spire in the centre. From a grated window in +that spire, the faithful Starrhemberg saw the sun rise every morning +upon that vast plain, whitened with the tents of the Moslem, and +watched night after night for the joyful signals of relief. They rose +at length. From those heights, the gallant Sobieski rushed upon the +panic-stricken Vizier, who, abandoning his camp and his treasures to +the victorious Pole, fled like a tiger baffled in his spring. On the +high road to Carinthia and Italy, that runs parallel with this chain +of mountains, you may observe a slender Gothic cross, that is to say, +one of those crocketted pyramids, surmounted with a small cross, which +are so called, and to be seen in many of our own market towns. It is +the Spinnerinn-am-Kreutz, and, according to the legend, marks the spot +on which a maiden vowed to sit and spin till her lover returned from +the holy land. Smile not so contemptuously; if you are proof against +“a ballad in print,” there is also an historical interest attached +to that lonely monument. It commemorates the retreat of Solyman the +Magnificent, +<span class="pagenum">299</span> + and the valour of an +ancestor of the princely House of Schwartzenburg. For thirty days,</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“Amid the vale below,</span><br> + Tents rose, and streamers play’d,<br> + And javelins sparkled in the sun,<br> + And multitudes encamped,<br> + Swarmed far as eye could follow o’er the plain;<br> + There, in his war-pavilion, sat,<br> + In council with his chiefs,<br> + The Sultan of the Land!” + </p> +</div> + +<p>Foiled in every assault by the skill of the commandant, Nicholas +Count of Salm, by the courage of the garrison, and the loyalty of the +burghers, the advance of winter, and the dread of approaching succours, +compelled him to raise the siege, and to retreat to Buda, A.D. 1529.</p> + +<p>Still farther eastward lies the little village of Laxendorf, with +the summer palace and gardens of Laxenburg, a favourite retreat of +the Emperor, and something between the well-known Petit-Trianon at +Versailles, and the grander Wilhelmshöe at Hessen-Cassel. Inferior to +them both in situation, it combines many of their separate attractions: +there are the rustic bridges, and Swiss cottages of the former, and the +modern antique castle of the latter. Instead of the splendid <span +class="pagenum">300</span> waterworks of Wilhelmshöe, you must be +contented, however, with the calm, clear lakes of Laxendorf, in which +myriads of enormous carp battle for the large crusts flung to them by +the guide, their scaly armour glittering in the sun, like</p> + +<p class="center"> +“Mingled metal damasked o’er with gold.” +</p> + +<p>In the centre of one of these lakes rises an island fortress. +At a given signal a boat pushes off from the watergate, you are +ferried over, and enter the court-yard of the building, which is +fitted up in strict conformity to the taste of the middle ages. Like +the Lowenburg at Wilhelmshoe, all the furniture of this fortress is +really antique—the carved oaken ceilings and wainscots having been +brought from suppressed monasteries and demolished castles. The +beds, chairs, tables, etc., collected in a similar manner, are also +extremely curious. Around the skirting-board of one of the apartments +on the ground floor, is a most interesting painting of a procession +to the lists, of the time of Maximilian I., and resembling in some +degree the prints of his “Triumph” by Hans Burgmair. The heralds and +pursuivants, habited alternately +<span class="pagenum">301</span> + in +the colours of the empire and the duchy, are followed by the Emperor +himself, armed at all points for the tournament, and twenty or thirty +knights, riding in couples, their ponderous tilting helmets crested and +garlanded in the elaborate German fashion, and their horses splendid +with engraved chanfrons and emblazoned housings. The procession is +closed by the priest and the surgeon, and the Todtwagen, or hearse to +carry away the slain champions! A long narrow gallery, on the highest +floor of the building, hung with the costumes of all the European +nations during the sixteenth century, leads to a dimly-lighted, +unfurnished turret-chamber, the only ornaments of which are three +small half-length portraits of Phillip II. of Spain, his queen Isabel, +and his unfortunate son Don Carlos. The gloom of the chamber, its +desolate appearance, so opposite to that of the other apartments, +which are profusely decorated and furnished; the three pale faces of +the principal actors in that most dreadful of domestic tragedies, +glaring at one another from the opposite walls, send a cold shudder +through your frame; and +<span class="pagenum">302</span> + you hasten +from the spot, as though murder had been freshly committed there, and +the dark shadow of the retiring assassin was yet gliding along the +floor of the adjacent gallery! The Knight’s Castle, as that building +is called, has also its state apartments; its chamber of justice; its +prison with a puppet prisoner, (the only piece of bad taste about +it, <a id="FNank_90" href="#FN_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a>) and +its armoury. The latter contains some handsome fluted and embossed +suits, but nothing particularly ancient<a id="FNank_91" href="#FN_91" +class="fnanchor">[91]</a>; throughout Germany, the richest suit of +armour, whatever may be its date, is invariably appropriated to the +Emperor Maximilian, though in the same collection; and standing next +to it, is a suit which probably did belong to him, or, at least, is +of the same period. From the Knight’s Castle, you are led to <span +class="pagenum">303</span> the Knight’s Chapel, his tilt-yard, and +his farm; the upper apartments of the latter are filled with ancient +cabinets, paintings, and curiosities of every description. Laxendorf is +first mentioned by old Minnesänger Tanhuser, who, having wandered from +land to land, and from court to court, and seen, as he himself informs +us, Crete, Jerusalem, Cyprus, Normandy, Antioch, Coblenz (!), Rome, and +Pisa, came to Vienna during the reign of the Emperor Frederick II., who +highly patronized him, and gave him a residence in the capital, and +other property in its neighbourhood.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“Zu Wiene hat ich einen Hof</span> + <br> + Der lag so rechte schöne;<br> + Lupolzdorf was darzuo min<br> + Das lit (liegt) bi <i>Luchse</i> nahen;<br> + Ze Hinperg hat ich schöne guot,” etc. + </p> +</div> + +<p>Laxendorf, lying close by Leopoldsdorf and Himperg, is evidently +the Luchse of our fortunate Minnesänger; and, towards the close +of the thirteenth century, we find the name of one Pertold, of +Lachsindorf. In 1330, Albert II., surnamed the Lame, Duke of Austria, +possessed a castle at Lachsindorf, and Duke Albert III., “with <span +class="pagenum">304</span> the tress,” built a new castle upon the +site of the old one, and had the magnificent furniture and valuable +antiquities which had previously adorned Saint Leopold’s castle on +the Khalenberg, removed to this place, which became his favourite +residence; where, shaking off as much as possible the cares of +sovereignty and secular pomp, he worked in the garden with his own +hands, and, studying Palladius on rural economy, amused himself with +planting and horticulture. Its marshy situation, however, is supposed +to have shortened the life of this amiable prince. Seized, during an +expedition into Bohemia, with a mortal disorder, of which he had here +laid the foundation, he was conveyed back in haste to Laxendorf, and +died on the 29th of August, 1395, aged forty-six, amid the lamentations +of the citizens of Vienna, who crowded round his corse, exclaiming, “We +have lost our friend, our true father!”</p> + +<p>In 1683, the Turks laid Laxendorf in ashes. It was rebuilt by the +Emperor Leopold I.; and his son Charles IV., in his brown surtout and +bag-wig, here delighted +<span class="pagenum">305</span> + to “bait +the heron.” Joseph II. turned the old blaue-haus<a id="FNank_92" +href="#FN_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a>, which was formerly the +falconry, into the imperial residence. The Gothic toy on the lake owes +its existence to a whim of the late Empress of Austria.</p> + +<p>But the sun is fast descending behind us—his last rays are lighting +up the boundless prospect. Let me take advantage of them to point out +to you the only remaining object of interest in the picture: on that +gray conical hill, that, dimly looming on the verge of the horizon, +might almost be mistaken for a cloud, stands the castle of Presburg; +at its foot lies the capital of Hungary, and past it hurries the broad +Danube, widening, deepening, and strengthening, as it flows, wheeling +to the south round the walls of Buda, washing those of Belgrade, and +bearing the tributes of the Save, the Drave, the Teiss, and the Pruth, +through the swamps of Bess-Arabia into the dark Euxine. At the moment +I am speaking, the eyes of +<span class="pagenum">306</span> + all +Europe are bent in the same direction. The cannon has been fired that +may shake the peace of the world. The flames that are kindling on the +shores of the Black Sea may spread to the mouths of the Mississippi. +But I have neither the talent nor the ambition to be a politician or +a prophet; and so farewell, gentle reader: the bugles of the peaceful +herdsmen, saluting some returning visiters of Baden, shall “sing truce” +to our warlike speculations, for</p> + +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + <span class="m03">“The night cloud has lower’d, + </span><br> + And sentinel stars set their watch in the sky.” + </p> +</div> + +<p>It is time to hurry down from the Temple of Glory, and return to +the gay city. Go lounge upon the bustling and brilliant Graben—gaze +upon the pyrotechnics of the Prater, or laugh in the little theatre of +Leopoldstadt—seek the Glacis, the Volksgarten, or the Opera. I leave +you with this conviction, that if I have only been fortunate enough to +induce you to descend the Danube to Vienna, there is little doubt of +obtaining your pardon for any failure in my attempt to amuse you on +your way.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<span class="pagenum">307</span> + +<h2 class="nobreak">NAMES<br> +<span class="s6">OF THE</span><br> +<span class="s4">CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc.</span><br> +<span class="s6">ON THE</span><br> +<span class="s4">BANKS OF THE DANUBE,</span><br> +<span class="s5">FROM RATISBON TO VIENNA.</span> +</h2> +</div> + +<hr> + +<!-- T A B L E O F P L A C E N A M E S --> + +<table class="banks"> +<tr> + <th class="rb" scope="col">RIGHT BANK.</th> + <td class="mid" aria-hidden="true">⇓</td> + <th class="lb" scope="col">LEFT BANK.</th> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Regensburg</span> <i>or</i> <span class="smcap">Ratisbon</span>.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Stadt-am-Hof.</td> +</tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Reinhausen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weichs.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Nicola.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schwabelweiss.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Einhausen or Bürgelut.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Tegernheim.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Irlmauth.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kreuzhof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Donaustauf. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Barbing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Reifelding. St.Salvator.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sulzbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Sarching.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Demling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Nassenhart.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Friesheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Frenghofen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ilkhofen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kruckenberg. Ettersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Altach. Auburg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kirfenholz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Eltheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Gaissling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gieffen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Seppenhausen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Oberachdorf. Wiesent.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">1st Post Station from Regensburg}</span> Pfätter.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wörth (Chateau.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hungerdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Tiefenthal.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Griefau. Gmund. + <span class="pagenum">308</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Keesel. Hochdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Herrfurt.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Irling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Heiligen Blut or Niederach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bogen or Hagenhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Aholfing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sinzendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Pondorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Zeitsdorf or Zeitlarn.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weihern.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Beichsee. Kirchenroth.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Ober and Unter Motzing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Pittrich. Neidau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Landersdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kössnach. Pfaffenmünster.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Breitenfield.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hartzeitdorn.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Einhausen. Rinkheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sossau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Eberau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Moosklagers.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sossauer Beschlacht.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hormannsdorf or Hornsdorf</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">2nd Post Station from Regensburg}</span> + <span class="smcap">Straubing.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Thurmhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Atzelburg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober and Unter Parkstetten.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Reibersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hochstätter Hof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Lenach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Aiterhofen. Ittling. Ober and Unter Ebling</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> +<tr><td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober-Altaich. (Kloster.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hundersdorf. Saut.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bogen and the Bogenberg. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Absarn.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hermansdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hüttenhof. Hofweinzier.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Holzkirch.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Anning. Dörfl.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Einbrach or Kinbrach.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Pfelling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Mitterdorf. Hindeldorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Linzing. Esper. Weichenberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Endau or Zengau. + <span class="pagenum">309</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Allkofen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Albertskirchen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Petzendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Strasskirchen. Irlbach.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wallendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Loche.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rafer or Asperhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wischelberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Aichach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Stephan-Posching.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Maria-Posching.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Uttenkofen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hundeldorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Steinfurt.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sommersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Steinkirchen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Klein-Schwarzach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Bergheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ziedeldorf. Offenberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Neuhausen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Himmelberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Metten Ufer.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Metten. (Kloster.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin) Natternberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Helfkam.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Fischerdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schäching.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Deggendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Deggenau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">3d Post Station from Regensburg}</span> + <span class="smcap">Plattling on the Inn.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Halbe-Meile-Kirche.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Isragemünd.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Seebach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Reit.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Helmdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Unter Schwarzach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hengersberg. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Thundorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Nieder Altaich. (Kloster.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Alten Ufer.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gindlau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Aicha.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Haardorf. Kreuzberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Säge. Münchsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Osterhofen. Mulheim. + <span class="pagenum">310</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Winzer. Hochwinzer.(Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Rockessing. Pockessing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Loh. Kinschbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr><td class="rb">Rossfelden.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Guscherdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mittau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Endsau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Nesselbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Biflez.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Leiten.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hofkirchen. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr><td class="rb">Kinzing. Langenkinzing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Herzogau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Pleinting.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober and Unter Schöllenbach</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gelbersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Euröde.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hildegardsberg. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Reif.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Albersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wisbauer.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schmelz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">U. L. Frau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">4th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> Vilshofen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Winkel</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hacheldorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Witzling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Windorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hannsbach.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Eglsee.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ottenham.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gerharding.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Sandbach.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Fisching.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kötzing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Leestätten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Deichselberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Einöd.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Biberach.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Geishofen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schalding.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Iring.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Söldern.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Reit. Ord. Hof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Alaning.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Donauhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Dobelstein. Haining.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wörth.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Maierhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Steinbach. + <span class="pagenum">311</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Stölzel-hof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Freunde. Hain.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">5th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> <span class="smcap">Passau.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ilz-stadt. Oberhaus.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Truckerheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Achleiten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Parz.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Lindau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Aich.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Aichet.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schildbauer.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Leiten.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wingertsdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Unter-Mitter-Esternberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schergendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Deitzendorf. Hetzmannsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Krempenstein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Pirawang.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Unter Schacha.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mazenberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober Hütt. Hochleiten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> Ober or Hafner-Zell. (Bavarian Custom-House.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kasten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Grunau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Fichtenstein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">(River middle: Jochenstein, or Grenzberg.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gottsdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">(Austrian Custom-House.)}</span> Engelhardszell.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ried. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Leitner.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rana-Riedl. (Chateau.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rana-bach and Mühle.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober-Rana.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ufer.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kacher.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Nieder Rana.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Marsbach (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wesen Urfar.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Marsbach Zell, or Frey Zell.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Wollmarkt. + <span class="pagenum">312</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Waldkirchen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Pulhof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kirschbaum, or Hayenbach. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">The Schlagen, or Schlägleiten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Lidritzhueb.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Lidritzhueb.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Au.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Im-Zell.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ob.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Fadenau-Hof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Schwend.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober-Michel. Kirschberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hinter-Aigen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Dorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Windberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Neuhaus. (Ruin and Chateau.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schönleiten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Rosengarten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Stauf. Aschach.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Landshag.</td> + </tr> + <tr><td class="rb">Hartkirchen. Dorsham.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober Walsee. Eschelberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mülhachen. Bergheim.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Schaumberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Pupping.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Gstettenau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hofham.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Au.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Auerdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Waschpoint.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wörth.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mohrhäusel.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">8th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> Efferding. Schab.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Taubenbraun. Gablau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Raffolding. Ihndorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bösenbach. Bach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Tratteneck.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> + <span class="pagenum">313</span> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Strass. Emling. Aham.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Stocköd.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Goldwarth.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Basleiten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hartheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Waldinger.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Alkofen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Garderiener. Hagenau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Bergham.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Gohbesch.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Steger.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schwagen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rodel.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schönering.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Im-Fall.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Höflein.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Urfar.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ottensheim. (Chateau.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Kloster.) Willering.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Buchenau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hager Schloschen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Calvarienberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Margarethen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Pöstlingberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">9th Post Station from Regensburg.}</span> <span class="smcap">Linz.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Urfar.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Anhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Pflaster.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Harbarz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Furth.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Rosenthal.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Magdalena.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Dornach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Furtner.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Katsbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="pagenum">314</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Plösching.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kaufleuten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Binneshäuser.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Blankenreit.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Spital.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Zitzelau. St. Peter.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Dörfl.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ebelsberg on the Traun.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Steyereck. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Pulgarn.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Traundorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Reichenbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Bosch.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Luftenberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Unger Bichling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hof-im-Schlag.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">Monastery of St. Florian and Markt.}</span> Fosterau. Fischau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Himberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Rafferstetten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Auwinden.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Asten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">St. Georgen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Tilly’s Burg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gusen. Wirthshaus. Frankenberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kronau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Spielberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Langenstein.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">10th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> <span class="smcap">Ens.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Urfar.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ensdorf. St. Lorenz. Lorch.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mauthausen. Pragstein.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Enghazen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Tabor.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Windpassing. Biburg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Reissersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Albing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Albing.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Albern.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Niedersebing.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Stein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Au. Berg. Auhof. Mitterberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wagram.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hartschlössel.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Pantaleon.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Naarn.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Erla Kloster.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Anhäusel. Strass. M. Lab. Arbing.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="pagenum">315</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Baumgarten.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Breitfeld.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Stafling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Weinberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Holzleiten.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Starzing.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Oberau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rupertshofen. Münzbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> Windhag. Allerheiligen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> St. Thomas.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Engelberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Engelthal.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Mitterau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Lin.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Unterau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Eck.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Gersberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Langacker. Wagerhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Achleiten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gang.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">11th Post Station from Regensburg.}</span> Strengberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weisching.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Inzing.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Haag.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hördorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Stauding.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hulting.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hörling. Sindburg. Niederwalsee. (Chateau.)</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mitterkirchen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Sumerau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Menschdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Leitzing.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Im Brüch.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Eizindorf. Froschau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Saxen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Dornach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Klam. (Chateau)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hofkirchen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hagenauer. + <span class="pagenum">316</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Petzeldorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Bocksreiter.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rinzenhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ardagger.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Saurüsselleiten.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Winkling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Mayherhof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Tiefenbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wies.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wies.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Grein. (Chateau.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Giesenbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Struden. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">Strudel and Schloss Werfenstein.}</span> Wirbel.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Haustein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">St. Nikola.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sarblingstein.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Hirschau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hirschau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Freyenstein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Dörfel.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Isper.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weins.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Marhof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Donaudorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kiernholz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bösenbeug. (Chateau)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Ips.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hinterhaus.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Taberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Agen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gottsdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Säusenstein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Barthub.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Mötzling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rohberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Rosenbühel.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Idersdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Loja.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="pagenum">317</span> + </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Thümling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Auratsberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kranz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Marbach. Maria-Taferl.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schelmenbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Krumnussbaum.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Krumnussbaum.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Pechlarn.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Klein Pechlarn.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wörth.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ebersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Lehen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Urfar.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weideneck. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">St. Georgen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Hain.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"> + <span class="note-sm">14th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> (Kloster) Mölk.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Emmersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hueb.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schall-Emersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gosam.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Urfar. Grinzing.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schönbühel.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Schönbühelhof.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Markt Aggsbach. Aggstein. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Dorf Aggsbach. </td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Willendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Groisbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Johann.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schwallenbach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober Arnsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hof Arnsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Erlahöfe.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Unter Arnsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Spitz. Hinterhaus (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Bach Arnsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">St. Michael.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Kienstock.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wesendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Lorenz.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Joching. + <span class="pagenum">318</span> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weissenkirchen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ruhrsdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Rossaz.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Dürrenstein. (Ruin.)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hundheim.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Löben.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Mautern.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"><span class="smcap">Stein.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"><span class="smcap">Krems.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kloster-Göttweih.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Palt.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weinzierl.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Brunnkirchen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Landersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Thalern.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Röhrendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Angern.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wolfsberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Weidling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Neu-Weidling.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Teiss.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Holenburg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wagram.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schlickendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Georgen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Donaudorf. Grunddorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Rittersfeld.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Trasenmauer.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Stollhofen.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Jedtsdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Frauendorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Grafenwörth.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Preiwitz.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Wasen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">St. Johann.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Lebern.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Bodensee.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Sachsendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Kollersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kleindorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Altenwörth. + <span class="pagenum">319</span> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Berndorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gugging.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Winkel.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Zwentendorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Frauendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Erpersdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Birnbaum.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Klein Schönbuhel.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Urzenlaa.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kronau.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Möllersdorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Aspern.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Neuaigen.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Triebensee.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Tuln.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Perzendorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober Schmidabach.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Zana.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Aigen, or Langenlebern.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Schmida.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Muckendorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Zeyersdof.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Zeiselmauer.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Wörten.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Stockerau.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Andre.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Altenberg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Greifenstein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Spillern.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Hoflein.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Alt-Kreutzerstein.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Ober Kritzendorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Korneuburg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">St. Veit.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Unter Kritzendorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Bisamberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Kloster-Neuburg.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Tuttenhof. Dorf.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Weidling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Lang-Enzersdorf.</td> + </tr> +<tr> + <td class="rb">Josephsberg, Leopoldsberg, both called the Khalenberg. Dorfel.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Jetelsee.</td> +</tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Nussdorf.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"> + <span class="pagenum">320</span> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Heiligen Stadt.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb">Gedlersdorf am Spitz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb">Döbling.</td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Wien or Vienna.</span></td> + <td class="mid">⇓</td> + <td class="lb"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <p>19th Post Station, and 27 Posts from Regensburg, or 243 English + miles. Distance by water about 300 English miles.</p> + </td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="center p2">THE END.</p> + +<p class="center p2">Printed by <span class="smcap">William Clowes</span>, + Stamford Street.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter center"> +<span class="pagenum">321</span> + +<div class="cc"> +<p class="center"> + <i>Speedily will be published, in illustration of this Volume</i>, +</p> +<p class="center lh2"> + FORTY VIEWS ON THE DANUBE,<br> + DRAWN ON STONE <span class="allsmcap">BY</span> L. HAGHE,<br> + FROM<br> + SKETCHES MADE ON THE SPOT BY J. R. PLANCHE.<br> + * * *<br> + <span class="center">No. I. will contain:</span> +</p> +<div class="cc"> +<ol> + <li>Ratisbon, from Höhen-Schambach.</li> + <li>Donaustauf.</li> + <li>Schloss Wörth.</li> + <li>Straubing.</li> +</ol> +</div> +</div> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- F O O T N O T E S --> +<div class="chapter center"> +<p class="center s4">FOOTNOTES</p> +</div> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_1" href="#FNank_1" class="label">[1]</a> While this +volume was passing through the press, “A Summer’s Ramble amongst the +Musicians in Germany” appeared, in which pleasant book, a dozen pages +are allotted to an equally brief and spirited notice of the banks of +the Danube from Passau to Vienna. Upwards of one hundred years ago, +Lady M. W. Montague descended the Danube from Ratisbon to Vienna, +a voyage of which she dismisses her account, in a dozen lines. “We +travelled by water from Ratisbon,” says the fair writer, “a journey +perfectly agreeable down the Danube, in one of those little vessels +that they very properly call wooden houses, having in them all the +<i>conveniences of a palace, stoves in the chambers, kitchens</i>, +etc.” (I do not know what exertions might have been made for the +accommodation of a British Ambassador, his Lady and suite, but the +Danube, I suspect, has not seen such another boat during the last +century.) “They are rowed by twelve men each, and move with such +incredible swiftness, that in the same day you have the pleasure of a +vast variety of prospects; and within the space of a few hours, you +have the pleasure of seeing a populous city, adorned with magnificent +palaces, and the most romantic solitudes which appear distant from +the commerce of mankind, the banks of the Danube being charmingly +diversified with woods, rocks, mountains covered with vines, fields of +corn, large cities, and ruins of ancient castles.”—<i>Letter to the +Countess of Mar</i>, dated Vienna, September 18th, o. s. 1716.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_2" href="#FNank_2" class="label">[2]</a> Ein handbuch für +Reisende auf der Donau. Von J. A. Schultes, M. Dr. etc. Wien, 1819. +Stuttgart, 1827.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_3" href="#FNank_3" class="label">[3]</a> Etymologists +have squabbled as much over the name of the Danube, as geographers +over its source, which some contend to be near the village of St. +George, and others in the court-yard of the palace of the Prince of +Fürstenberg, at Donaueschingen. This mighty flood, the grandest in +Europe, and the third in consequence in the Old World, was known to the +Romans by the double name of the Danube, and the Ister. “Ortus hic in +Germaniæ jugis montes abnobae ex adverso Raurici Galliæ oppidi multis +ultra alpes millibus, ac per innumeras lapsus gentes Danubii nomine, +immenso aquarum auctu et unde primum Illyricum alluit Ister appellatus, +sexaginta amnibus receptis, medio ferme numero eorum navigabili, in +Pontum vastis sex fluminibus evolvitur.”—‘Plin. Nat. Hist.’ iv. 24. The +ancient Germans named it Döne and Tona; the Sclavonians, Donava. The +Hungarians call it Tanara, or Donara, and the Turks, Duna. Its modern +German appellation is Donau. Some of the earlier writers would derive +this name from Deus Abnobius, or Diana Abonbia, or Abnopa, to whom a +temple was dedicated near the source of the river. Others deduce it +from Thon, clay, and contend it should be written Thonau. Others again +would find its origin in the words Ton, sound, or Donner, thunder; +and Reichard, indeed, gives the latter as the received derivation. +Breuninger, however, proposes Tanne, a fir, and speciously enough, +the river rising in the Schwarz-wald, of which fir is the distinctive +character, and its banks being clothed with forests of the same tree, +along nearly the whole of its course; while Nikolai would have us seek +it in the Keltic words Do, Na, which signify two rivers, and may either +apply to its double name, “Binominem Istrum,” or to the two sources +which dispute the glory of its birth.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_4" href="#FNank_4" class="label">[4]</a> Vide ‘Gemeiner’s +Reichs-stadt Regenburgische Chronik.’ 4to, Regensburg, 1805.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_5" href="#FNank_5" class="label">[5]</a> Coxe’s ‘Hist. of +the House of Austria,’ 8vo. London, 1820, Vol. ii. p. 335.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_6" href="#FNank_6" class="label">[6]</a> “History of +France,” 8vo. Vol. ii. p. 146.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_7" href="#FNank_7" class="label">[7]</a> From a wood-cut +in the Nürnberg Chronicle of 1493, it appears, however, that the towers +were even at that time unfinished; one being represented a story +shorter than the other, and with a crane upon it raising a stone. +The author, Hartmann Schedel, in the text of the book, describes the +edifice as “yet incomplete.”</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_8" href="#FNank_8" class="label">[8]</a> Vide +‘Ausführliche relation desjenigen wunderthätigen Kampfes, welcher anno +930, den 23 Januar, zu Regensburg zwischen Hannss Dollinger einem +Burger daselbst und einem unglaubigen hunnischen Obristen Craco, +vorgegangen.’ 4to Regensburg, 1710.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_9" href="#FNank_9" class="label">[9]</a> The legend tells +us, that the Infernal Architect was sadly worried, during his labours, +by a cock and a dog. A cock and a bull would have figured with more +propriety in such a story.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_10" href="#FNank_10" class="label">[10]</a> ‘Des Churbayer +Atalantis, von A. W. Ertel.’ 8vo. Nurnberg, 1815.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_11" href="#FNank_11" class="label">[11]</a> ‘Travels +through Germany, etc.’ 4 vols. 4to. London, 1757, vol. iv. p. 212. +The saint must surely have been like Mrs. Malaprop’s Cerberus—“Three +gentlemen at once.”</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_12" href="#FNank_12" class="label">[12]</a> Yet I do +not find them noticed by Mr. Dibdin, in his curious ‘Bibliographical +Tour.’</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_13" href="#FNank_13" class="label">[13]</a> Kloster +Windberg was originally a castle belonging to the Counts of Bogen. +Albert of Bogen and Hedwig his wife founded the monastery in 1145. In +the neighbourhood, two hermits are said to have resided, one of whom +murdered the other.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_14" href="#FNank_14" class="label">[14]</a> Professor +Schultes says, the date on the tombstone is incorrect, and that it +should be October 12th, 1435, as Albert married again 1436. The bridge +from which she was precipitated, was that which crossed the old arm of +the Danube, and no longer exists. The present bridge passes over the +new branch of the river, that washes the town and connects its northern +side with the Island called the Donauwiese, in which the famous Sossau +fair, which began on the Sunday after Michaelmas, and lasted eight +days, was formerly held.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_15" href="#FNank_15" class="label">[15]</a> The original +castle of a particular family—the cradle of the race. <i>Schloss</i> +is, however, a most convenient word, as it not only stands for a castle +or a palace, but for those buildings which are both or neither. The +<i>chateaux</i> of France, and the <i>seats</i> or <i>mansions</i> of +England.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_16" href="#FNank_16" class="label">[16]</a> The Archbishop +of Cologne, in a Letter to the Pope.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_17" href="#FNank_17" class="label">[17]</a> Henry Döring +has a ballad on this subject, entitled, “Die Zeugen,” (the Witnesses.) +Vide ‘Ruinen oder Taschenbüch zür Geschicte verfalener Ritterburgen +und Schlosser, etc. Wien, 1826. 1 Sammlung.’ One might be pardoned for +supposing the proverb of “Walls have ears,” to have arisen from this +adventure.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_18" href="#FNank_18" class="label">[18]</a> + </p> + <div class="indent2" style="max-width: 20em;"> + <p> + “Tausend sechs hundert zehn und acht,<br> + Am dritten Pfingstag, nach Mittnacht.<br> + Schlug das Wildfeur oben ein,<br> + Lief aus dem Thurm in d’kirch hinein;<br> + Die kirch gesteckt voll Kirchfarther war<br> + Der brennets viel: zwey sturben gar.<br> + In diesem Schreken, Strauss, und Brauss<br> + Drang alle welt zur Kirchen auss;<br> + Der gross Gewalt erdruckt ohnverschon<br> + Vier manns und zehen weibsperson<br> + Da liegn ihr in zwey Grabern todt<br> + Drey Mann, sibn Weiber: tröst sie Gott.” + </p> + <p class="right">‘Hemmauer,’ a. a.O. 357.</p> + </div> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_19" href="#FNank_19" class="label">[19]</a> The whole of +these circumstances, from the stealing of the Host to the granting of +the Bull, are represented in paintings on the walls of the church. +Nearly the same story is told at Bruxelles of three miraculous wafers, +which were stolen and stabbed by Jews, in 1369; and for which imputed +crime, several of that persecuted people were burnt alive, by order +of Duke Wenceslaus. The author of ‘Les Délices des Pays Bas’ tells +us, that, “Les hosties et les marques durent encore aujourd’hui, +et ne souffrent pas qu’on les approche <i>sans je me sçai quelle +horreur toute sainte</i>. On les garde pour un gage particulier de la +protection divine envers la ville de Brusselles.” Vol. i. p. 121. It +appears that the Deggendorfers owed the Jews a considerable sum of +money; it is, therefore, most probable that the story was got up to +enable them, as the debt grew troublesome, to wash it out in blood. +Vide ‘Das obsiegende Glaubenswunder des ganzen Christl. Churlandes +Baiern willsagen <i>unlaugbarer</i> Bericht, etc.’ 8vo. Deggendorf, +1814.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_20" href="#FNank_20" class="label">[20]</a> “So soon +another,” says Schultes, “I think I hear the traveller and the +reader exclaim, who may not be acquainted with the magnitude of this +order.” And then he proceeds to give, from Hemmauer, the following +list of popes, priests, emperors, kings, etc. who had, up to that +time, embraced the Order of Saint Benedict: viz. “Sixty-three popes, +two hundred and twenty-three cardinals, two hundred and fifty-five +patriarchs, sixteen thousand archbishops, forty-six thousand bishops, +twenty-one emperors, twenty-five empresses, forty-eight kings, +fifty-four queens, one hundred and forty-six imperial and royal +children, and four hundred and forty-five sovereign princes and dukes!” +Donaufahrten, tom. i. 8. 374. note.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_21" href="#FNank_21" class="label">[21]</a> Memoriale, +seu Altachiæ inferioris memoria superstes, ex tabulis, annalibus, +diplomatis, etc. 6. Joan. Bapt. Lackner etc. Fol. Passavii, 1779.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_22" href="#FNank_22" class="label">[22]</a> Schultes says, +in 1740; but this must be a mistake, as Maria Theresa was not crowned +Queen of Hungary till the 25th of June, 1741; and it was after that +ceremony that, clad in deep mourning, with the crown of St. Stephen +on her head, and the scimitar at her side, she made the affecting +address to the Diet, which, rousing the whole nation, brought its +numerous tribes from the banks of the Save, the Drave, the Teiss and +the Danube, to the royal standard. These troops, under the names of +Croats, Pandours, Sclavonians, Warasdinians, and Tolpaches, exhibited +a new and astonishing spectacle to the eyes of Europe. By their dress +and arms, by the ferocity of their manners, and their singular mode of +combat, they struck terror into the disciplined armies of Germany and +France. Vide Coxe’s ‘History of the House of Austria,’ 8vo. vol. iv. +p. 442.—Baron Riesbeck, who also dates the circumstance 1740, says, +“When the Hungarian nobility took the field for their <i>king</i> Maria +Theresa, the first sight of such troops struck the French army with a +panic. They had, indeed, often seen detachments of these ‘<i>Diables +d’Hongrie</i>,’ as they used to call them; but a whole army, drawn up +in battle array, unpowdered from the general to the common soldier, +half their faces covered with long whiskers, a sort of round beaver on +their heads instead of hats, without ruffles or frills to their shirts, +and without feathers, all clad in rough skins, monstrous crooked +sabres, ready drawn and uplifted, their eyes darting flashes of rage +sharper than the beams of their naked sabres, was a sight our men had +not been accustomed to see.” (It must be remembered that Riesbeck, +though a German, writes in the character of a Frenchman.) “Our oldest +officers still remember the impression these terrible troops made, and +how difficult it was to make the men stand against them, till they had +been accustomed to their formidable appearance.” Pinkerton’s Collect. +vol. vi. p. 112.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_23" href="#FNank_23" class="label">[23]</a> Liv. i. ch. +433.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_24" href="#FNank_24" class="label">[24]</a> Liv. ii. ch. +125.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_25" href="#FNank_25" class="label">[25]</a> Geschichte der +Deutschen.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_26" href="#FNank_26" class="label">[26]</a> The canons +or prebends of this establishment have the word “allain,” (“alone,”) +inscribed upon their arms, their clothes, and their houses. Schultes +tells us that a wag Latinised it “Solus cum sola.”</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_27" href="#FNank_27" class="label">[27]</a> Vide ‘Lays of +the Minnesingers, or German Troubadours.’ 12mo. Lond. 1825, p. 113, and +the Appendix to the ‘Nibelungen-lied’, called “Die Klage,” <i>i. e.</i> +the Lament.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_28" href="#FNank_28" class="label">[28]</a> Coxe’s +‘History of the House of Austria,’ vol. ii. pp. 419, 20. I have +mentioned these circumstances, as the devastations committed by these +troops, who are called by the German writers the Passauer Volk, are +still but too visible upon the banks of the Danube, and will be alluded +to hereafter.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p><a id="FN_29" href="#FNank_29" class="label">[29]</a> The Austrian + commander Plantini was beheaded at Ingolstadt, in 1743, for delivering + this fortress up to the Bavarians, without firing a shot.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_30" href="#FNank_30" class="label">[30]</a> Mr. Russel, +in his tour in Germany, speaking of the number of abbeys, monasteries, +etc., has taken up the cause of these holy locusts, and contends, +with all that ingenuity and talent which characterize his excellent +work, that it is wrong to accuse the princes, or pious individuals +who endowed them, of having been imprudently liberal to the church. +"Thousands of acres were given, <i>but they were acres of wood and +water, utterly unproductive to the public</i>, and which would probably +have remained for centuries in the same wild state, if they had been +the property of a quarrelsome baron, instead of belonging to <i>the +peaceful sons of the church</i>. The monks, though idle themselves, +were not encouragers of idleness in their subjects. Their leisure +allowed them to instruct, and their love of gain led them to aid, their +vassals in agricultural science, rude as it was, while, at the same +time, the sacred character which they enjoyed, placed their peasantry +beyond the reach of the oppressions practised by feudal nobles. It +has long been a current proverb in Germany, 'Man lebt gut unter dem +Krummstab <a id="FNank_30a" href="#FN_30a" class="fnanchor">[30a]</a>.' +It is true that one is apt to feel provoked when he is told that these +fruitful vallies and the pasture hills which rise along their sides, +belong to a congregation of idle monks. But monks were the very men +who made the vallies fruitful, and the hills useful. They received +them <i>covered with trees</i>, and rocks—<i>no very liberal boon</i> +<a id="FNank_30b" href="#FN_30b" class="fnanchor">[30b]</a>, and it +was they who planted them with corn and stored them with sheep." This +is all very true, as far as regards the benefits which mankind has +eventually received from these establishments; for we have likewise +to thank the cowl and crosier, for much if not all the valuable +information respecting the days of our fathers and "the old time before +them," which the chronicles, written and illuminated in abbey and +convent, contain. But let the praise be given to that Providence, "from +seeming evil still producing good," in whose hands these monks were the +unconscious instruments of spreading that very light and information +which it was their constant study and employment to extinguish and +contract. The hypocrisy and cupidity of these self-elected saints are +far less pardonable than the brutal ferocity of the barons, whose +pitiable ignorance and superstition; the roots of the evil, they +fostered for their own advantage. Instead of employing the influence +which their superior education and sacred character gave them over +the minds of these uncultivated men, in the truly Christian task of +curbing their passions, enlightening their understandings, and bringing +them to a sense of the folly and wickedness of their ways, they meanly +exerted it for the purposes of self-aggrandizement, utterly careless of +the pitiable state of destitution and degradation in which, by their +rapacious demands and disgusting mummeries, they were daily sinking +their poor, besotted, bigoted, but often truly noble benefactors. The +knave who swindles a silly heir out of his property may wonderfully +improve the estate and build an hospital with the money; but he is no +less a knave because the poor and the sick are eventually gainers; nor +is the folly of the unfortunate dupe an excuse, in the eye of honour +and honesty, for his crime; which is, on the contrary, aggravated by +the advantage taken of the victim's imbecility. Avarice and ambition, +however, sowed the seeds of their own destruction. The Church of Rome +might have flourished to this day, had not its grasping hand pressed so +heavily upon its subjects, as at length to rouse them from their trance +and open their eyes, not so much to its errors as to its wealth. Truly +does Schiller remark, that "Had it not been closely backed with private +advantages, and state interests, the arguments of theologians, and the +voice of the people, would never have met with princes so willing to +espouse their cause, nor the new doctrines have found so numerous, so +brave, and so obstinate champions!"... "The desire of independence, the +rich plunder of monastic institutions, gave charms to the Reformation +in the eyes of princes, and strengthened not a little their inward +conviction of its necessity."... "Without the imposition of the tenth +and twentieth pennies, the See of Rome had never lost the United +Netherlands." The question, "Why the Pope, who is richer than several +Crœsus's, cannot build the Church of Saint Peter with his own money, +but does it at the expense of the poor?" was more staggering than that +of his infallibility. The <i>sale</i> of indulgences first induced men +to inquire into the power of the Church to <i>grant</i> them. The heavy +coffers of the abbots, and the glittering ornaments of their shrines +and altars drew the swords of such adventurers as Christian, Duke of +Brunswick, who issued a coinage composed of church-plate, and bearing +the motto—"A friend to God and an enemy to the priesthood." "Woe unto +them," says the inspired Isaiah, "<i>that join house to house, that lay +field to field, till there be no place, that they may be placed alone +in the midst of the earth</i>.</p> + +<p>"<i>Which justify the wicked for reward</i>, and take away the +righteousness of the righteous from him.</p> + +<p>"<i>Therefore is the anger of the Lord kindled against his people, +and he stretched forth his hand against them, and hath smitten +them</i>, and the hills did tremble, and <i>their carcases were torn +in the midst of the streets</i>. For all this his anger is not turned +away, <i>but his hand is stretched out still</i>."</p> + +<p>Such were the crimes of the Church of Rome; such has been its +punishment, and "His anger," indeed, "is not turned away"—"His hand is +stretched out still." Who can look upon its fallen state, and listen +to the cry of its unfortunate remnant, without exclaiming in the words +of Jeremiah, "How is she become as a widow; she that was great among +the nations, and princess among the provinces! How is she become +tributary!"</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_30a" href="#FNank_30a" class="label">[30a]</a> “One lived +well under the crosier.”</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_30b" href="#FNank_30b" class="label">[30b]</a> <i>No very +liberal boon, Mr. Russel!</i> What! In a country where wood is to +this day the staple commodity? where the greater part of the revenue +of many of the nobles, and the entire incomes of thousands of the +peasantry, are derived from the sale of the trees with which nature has +so lavishly clothed the land? from the produce of those very “acres +of wood,” which you, from some strange slip of memory, describe as +“utterly unproductive to the public.” The “<i>peaceful sons of the +church</i>,” amongst whom, of course, you number the warlike bishops of +Passau, Strasburgh, Bamberg, Freysingen, Ratisbon, et hoc genus omne, +knew uncommonly well the value of those <i>unproductive</i> acres.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_31" href="#FNank_31" class="label">[31]</a> Vide Baron von +Schmidtburg’s ‘Tagebuche einer Donau-Reise.’</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_32" href="#FNank_32" class="label">[32]</a> The remarkable gorge from Hayenbach to Neuhaus is +called by the peasantry of the district, “In den Schlägen,” or +Schlagleiten.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_33" href="#FNank_33" class="label">[33]</a> The Strudel +and the Wirpel are a fall and whirlpool in the Danube, between Linz and +Ips, of which hereafter.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_34" href="#FNank_34" class="label">[34]</a> As soon +as you reach Frankfort, the Prussian dollars and groschen cease to +circulate generally, and your bill is made out in the money of the +empire, that is, in florins or gouldens and kreutzers. The florin, or +goulden, is a mere nominal coin of the value of sixty kreutzers, and +the silver pieces in circulation are those of 3, 6, 10, 20, and 30 +kreutzers each, so marked on the reverse. In Bavaria, the 10, 20, and +30 kreutzer pieces go for 12, 24, and 36 kreutzers; so that the gold +ducat, the real value of which is 4-1/2 florins, will, in Bavaria, pass +for 4 <i>fl.</i> 54 <i>k.</i>, and sometimes five florins. In Austria, +however, the silver coins pass for no more than they are marked, and +the ducat drops to 4 <i>fl.</i> 30 <i>k.</i> The Venetian ducat, which +is frequently met with in Austria, is worth a few kreutzers more than +the German ducat. The paper florin, or goulden, is two-fifths, or, as +the Austrians calculate, four-tenths of a good or silver florin.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_35" href="#FNank_35" class="label">[35]</a> The remark does not say much for the taste or discrimination +of the Englishman, whoever he might be. There +is an endless variety upon the Rhine, which yields to the +Danube only in points of grandeur—in breadth, extent, and +boldness of scenery. In variety, it quite equals the Danube, +and, I should almost say, surpasses it.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_36" href="#FNank_36" class="label">[36]</a> + Literally “fist-right,”—the right of the strongest arm,— + </p> + <p class="center"> + “The good (?) old plan,<br> + That they may take who have the power,<br> + And they may keep who can.”<br> + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_37" href="#FNank_37" class="label">[37]</a> Called, in the + chronicles of the times, “Albert with the tress,” because he wore a + lock of hair, which he received either from his wife, or from some + other distinguished lady, entwined with his own, and formed a society + of the Tress, not unlike the commencement of our order of the Garter: + he was likewise called the Astrologer, from his fondness for judicial + astrology.—Coxe’s ‘History of the House of Austria,’ chap. 10. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_38" href="#FNank_38" class="label">[38]</a> Fadinger was + a strong fatalist. Upon his standards were inscribed, by his order, + the words, “Es muss seyn!” “It must be.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_39" href="#FNank_39" class="label">[39]</a> And yet, as + was most just, this poor weak bigot was condemned to see some of + his dearest hopes frustrated by the treachery of one of his vaunted + saints. “A Capuchin friar,” exclaimed the deceived Emperor, when + the duplicity of the celebrated Father Joseph became apparent, “has + disarmed me with his rosary, and covered six electoral caps with + his Cowl.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_40" href="#FNank_40" class="label">[40]</a> Our language + is sadly off for feminine terminations. The German, brauerinn, + köchinn, gartnerinn, etc. are most badly translated by female + brewer, cook-maid, and woman gardener.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_41" href="#FNank_41" class="label">[41]</a> The old + rhyming chronicler, Bruschius, says, + </p> +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Passibus in longum patet area tota trecentis,<br> + In latum centum passibus atque decem.” + </p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_42" href="#FNank_42" class="label">[42]</a> A tailor of + Linz, named Kellerer, established an asylum for thirty orphans; + and in 1734, another tradesman, named Adam Pruner, bequeathed one + hundred and eighty-one thousand florins to the poor of the town, + the interest of which supports twenty-seven children, twenty-seven + men, and twenty-seven women. The Emperor Joseph II. and the + Empress Maria Theresa have also founded charities here. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_43" href="#FNank_43" class="label">[43]</a> The Dukes of + Austria were afterwards compelled to cede the Tyrol, but Carinthia + has ever since that period continued in the possession of their + House. Coxe’s Hist. i. 155, Pelzel, Schmidt, Struvius, etc. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_44" href="#FNank_44" class="label">[44]</a> Bruschius + tells us of a capuchin, named Waltherus, + </p> +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “Qui nondum vinclis conjunctum aut pontibus Istrum Emensus sicco +dicitur esse pede.” + </p> +</div> + <p>Perhaps the river was frozen at that time.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_45" href="#FNank_45" class="label">[45]</a> In the + campaign of 1809, damage was done in this little town alone to the + amount of 1,326,621 florins. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_46" href="#FNank_46" class="label">[46]</a> Steyereck + was once famous for its potteries; but the manufactories have + fallen to decay, notwithstanding the fine clay which is still to + be found in its neighbourhood. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_47" href="#FNank_47" class="label">[47]</a> In 1787, a + stone coffin was dug up in the neighbourhood of Ebelsberg, five + feet long, and one foot two inches wide. On the breast of the + skeleton within lay a golden ring, of rather an oval shape, and + rude workmanship; at its feet was a drinking glass, which had + contained some clear liquid, but it was unfortunately broken, and + the liquid spilt, in the opening of the coffin. Vide + <i>Kurz’ Beträge</i>, 3 Th. S. xvii. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_48" href="#FNank_48" class="label">[48]</a> +General Jominy gives the following account of this sanguinary affair, +in his Political and Military Life of Napoleon. “Hiller had abandoned +the barrier of the Inn without fighting, but he resolved to defend +the passage of the Traun at the formidable position of Ebersberg. A +wooden bridge, thirty fathoms long, presented a more fearful obstacle +than that of Lodi, it being terminated by a walled town, commanded by +a castle, and crowned by heights of very difficult access. To cross +this bridge, in the face of thirty thousand men and eighty pieces of +cannon, was not an easy matter. Massena was not ignorant of Napoleon’s +intention to turn this impregnable post by Lambach, but the impetuous +valour of General Cohorn hurried him into a sanguinary enterprise. +Three Austrian battalions, that had been imprudently left in front of +the bridge, were overthrown, and driven, at the point of the sword, +to the gates of the town, which were closed against them. Cohorn +forced the gates, and penetrated into the principal street. Massena +supported him first by the rest of Claparede’s division, and then +by that of Legrand. A desperate conflict was kept up from street to +street, and from house to house. Claparede had just possessed himself +of the castle, when Hiller threw four fresh columns into the town, who +opened themselves a passage with the bayonet. A horrible slaughter +ensued; several houses took fire that were filled with wounded and +with combatants, whom the crowded state of the streets prevented from +escaping. War never presented a more cruel scene. At length, tired with +carnage, the Austrians abandoned Ebersberg, and our troops debouched +against the heights, where a still more unequal combat commenced. The +arrival of Durosnel’s division of cavalry by the right bank, and the +certainty that his position would be turned by Lannes, decided Hiller +at length to fall back with all speed upon Enns.... This vigorous blow +was still more honourable to the French troops, as the greater part +engaged in this business was composed of soldiers who had never before +seen a battle. It cost Hiller from six to seven thousand men. We had to +regret the loss of from four to five thousand brave fellows, a great +number of whom had fallen a prey to the flames.”—<i>Vie Politique et +Militaire de Napoléon.</i> 8vo. Paris, 1827, tom. iii. pp. 181-3.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="FN_49" href="#FNank_49" class="label">[49]</a> This +extraordinary man, the founder of the Bavarian army, and the terror +of the Protestants, used to boast before the battle of Leipsig, of +three things—viz. That he had never known woman, never been drunk, +and never lost a battle. “His strange and terrific aspect,” says +Schiller, “was in unison with his character. Of low stature, thin, +with hollow cheeks, a long nose, a broad and wrinkled forehead, large +whiskers, and a pointed chin, he was generally attired in a Spanish +doublet of green with slashed sleeves, with a small and peaked hat on +his head, surmounted by a red feather, which hung down his back. His +whole aspect recalled to recollection the Duke of Alba, the scourge of +the Flemings, and his actions were by no means calculated to remove +the impression.”—<i>Thirty Years’ War</i>, book ii. The author of +L’Histoire de Gustave Adolphe gives a similar account of his dress +and person, and adds, that the Maréchal de Grammont, going to see +him out of curiosity, met him at the head of his army, attired as +described, and mounted on a little grey hackney, with one pistol only +at his saddle-bow. “Lorsque le Maréchal s’approcha pour lui faire la +révérence, Tilly, croyant remarquer qu’il s’étonnoit de le voir dans +cet équipage, lui dit, Monsieur, vous trouvez peut—être mon habillement +extraordinaire; j’avoue qu’il n’est pas tout à fait conforme à la mode +de France, mais il est a mon gré, et cela me suffit. Je pense aussi que +ma haquenée, et ce pistolet tout seul, vous surprennent pour le moins +autant que mon accoûtrement; pour que vous n’ayiez pas mauvaise opinion +du Comte de Tilly, à qui vous faites l’honneur de rendre une visite de +curiosité, je vous dirai que j’ai gagné sept batailles décisives, sans +avoir été obligé de tirer une seule fois le pistolet que vous voyez là; +et mon petit cheval ne m’a jamais abandonné et n’a jamais balancé à +faire son devoir.”—p. 173.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_50" href="#FNank_50" class="label">[50]</a> There being + a place so called in the vicinity of the Strudel. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_51" href="#FNank_51" class="label">[51]</a> + </p> +<div class="center"> +<p class="cc"> +“Zu Enns St. Marx und Lucas lehrt<br> +Das volck zu Christi Glaub bekehrt.<br> +<span class="indent2">Hie ward versenkt St. Florian</span><br> +<span class="indent2">In D’Enns der edle Rittersmann,</span><br> +Maximilian da Bischoff war,<br> +Mild gegen Armen immerdar;<br> +<span class="indent2">Diess langt zu sondern Ruhm der Stadt</span><br> +<span class="indent2">Die Gott also begnadet hat.”</span> +</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_52" href="#FNank_52" class="label">[52]</a> Gibbon, when + speaking of this expedition, calls it “the triple effort of a French + army that was poured into their (the Avars’) country, by land and + water, through the Carpathian mountains, and along the plain of the + Danube.” <i>Decline and Fall</i>, vol. ix. p. 184. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_53" href="#FNank_53" class="label">[53]</a> This building + is still standing in the north-east quarter of the city. It is now + the property of Baron Rumeskirchen. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_54" href="#FNank_54" class="label">[54]</a> In the + Niebelunglied, which was compiled about this period, we find Ens + mentioned, by its present name, as one of the places visited by + Chrimhilt, on her journey into Hungary. + </p> + <p> + “Da sie uber die Traun kamen, bey <i>Ense</i> auf das feld.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_55" href="#FNank_55" class="label">[55]</a> According to + an old German writer quoted by Schultes, Ens was a walled city as + early as the year 900, and already of some consequence. “Bavari + citissime in id ipsum tempus (<span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> + 900) pro tuitioni illorum regni validissimam urbem in littore Anesi + fluminis muro obposuerunt.” But, in this case, why is it called a + village by Leopold, in the twelfth century? + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_56" href="#FNank_56" class="label">[56]</a> + Gibbon.—William of Tyre and Matthew Paris reckon seventy + thousand loricati in each of the armies led by Conrad and the + French king, Louis VII. The light-armed troops, the peasant + infantry, the women and children, and the priests and monks, + swelled this swarm to an inconceivable extent. “It is affirmed + by the Greeks and Latins, that in the passage of a strait or + river, the Byzantine agents, after a tale of nine hundred + thousand, desisted from the endless and formidable + computation.”—<i>Decline and Fall</i>, vol. xl. p. 107. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_57" href="#FNank_57" class="label">[57]</a> This little + square tower, which is generally called, from its situation, the + Wörther-Schloss, is described in several topographical works + indifferently under the name of the Castle of Werfenstein, and + the Castle of Struden. But it being clearly apparent from various + ancient documents that the Castles of Werfenstein and Struden + were two distinct buildings, Herr Schultes has, I think, with + good reason, designated this the ruin of Werfenstein, and that + which overhangs the little markt of Struden, on the left bank of + the river, the Castle of Struden. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_58" href="#FNank_58" class="label">[58]</a> The + Waldwasser and the Wildriss, like the Hössgang, are never + passable but when the water is very high, and then only by the + lightest and smallest craft. The Strudel, though most studded + with rocks, is the best, and consequently the general passage for + all boats and rafts, either ascending or descending, and has + therefore given its name to the whole fall. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_59" href="#FNank_59" class="label">[59]</a> A singular + ignorance of the true situation of these famous places is displayed + by most of the German writers. Berckenmayer, in his Curiösen + Antiquarius, carries the Wirbel below the town of Krems, and he is + followed in his error by Strahlenberg, in his Beschreibung des + Russichen Reiches, and Hübner, in his Vollständigen Geographie, + who speak of the Wirbel as a <i>waterfall</i> near Krems. From + Hübner this mistake has been copied into several geographical works, + and amongst others into the old Zeitung’s Lexicon; and many of the + modern German, and even some English travellers speak of the Strudel + and Wirbel as one and the same thing, a confusion which nothing but + utter carelessness could have created; the first being distinctly a + fall, and the second an eddy, each remarkable in itself, and at + some little distance from the other. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_60" href="#FNank_60" class="label">[60]</a> “Inter alios + (vortices) famosus ille est, qui aspicitur sub Lincio. Creditur + vulgo origo esse lacus Neusidel in Hungaria Cis-Rahabanti. + Aspicitur etiam alter sed hoc minor, prope pagum Almas infra + Commaronium, qui perhibetur esse origo lacus Balaton.”—Marsigli + Danubiani illustr. See also Herbinius de Cataract. Fluv., and + Kircher’s Mundus subterraneus. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_61" href="#FNank_61" class="label">[61]</a> Vide + Frontispiece. The view was taken from a hill on the right bank of + the river, on our return by land from Vienna. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_62" href="#FNank_62" class="label">[62]</a> Here is + another error respecting the Strudel. Stockerau is nearly two days + journey from it, in the neighbourhood of Vienna. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_63" href="#FNank_63" class="label">[63]</a> + </p> +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “<i>Brutus.</i> Speak to me what thou art?<br> + Ghost. <i>Thy evil spirit, Brutus.</i><br> + <i>Brutus.</i> Why com’st thou?<br> + Ghost. <i>To tell thee thou shalt see me at Philippi.</i><br> + <i>Brutus.</i> <i>Well,<br> + <span class="indent4">Then I shall see thee again?</span> + </i><br> + Ghost. <i>Ay, at Philippi!</i>”<br> + <span class="right">Julius Cæsar, Act iv. Scene 3.</span> + </p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_64" href="#FNank_64" class="label">[64]</a> A + <i>gast-haus</i> is an hotel; a <i>wirths-haus</i>, a tavern, or + ale-house. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_65" href="#FNank_65" class="label">[65]</a> This prodigy + will remind the classical reader of the punishment of the Amazons, + who attempted to cut down the sacred grove that shadowed the temple + of Achilles in the island of Leuce. At the first blows they struck, + the axe-heads flew from their handles, and laid the impious + wielders dead upon the spot. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_66" href="#FNank_66" class="label">[66]</a> “Kurzer + Bericht von dem Ursprung des wunderthätigen schmerzhaften + Gnadenbildes Maria-Taferl.” There are numberless tracts of this + description sold at Marbach to the pilgrims, who “hold each + strange tale devoutly true.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_67" href="#FNank_67" class="label">[67]</a> Fragmentum + Historicum de quatuor Albertis—apud Pez. vol. ii. p. 385. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_68" href="#FNank_68" class="label">[68]</a> The regular + weekly passage-boats from Ulm, Regensburg, and Stadt-am-hof, to + Vienna, are called “ordinari-schiffe.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_69" href="#FNank_69" class="label">[69]</a> “Nie ward + getreuer’r Degen geboren auf der Erde.” Nibelungen-lied. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_70" href="#FNank_70" class="label">[70]</a> “Die Fenster + in den mauern, die sieht man offen stahn.” Ditto. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_71" href="#FNank_71" class="label">[71]</a> The supposed + author of the Nibelungen-lied. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_72" href="#FNank_72" class="label">[72]</a> + Nibelungen-lied, V. 1116-23. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_73" href="#FNank_73" class="label">[73]</a> “The castle + was begun to be built by Jorig der Schekt-von-wald, the Monday + after the nativity of our Lady, from the birth of Christ, the + year 1228.” Herr Schultes remarks, that he may be mistaken in the + date, and mentions that Petz, in his Chronicle of Mölk, (Part I. + p. 261) speaks of a Baron Schekh, whose deeds were as black as + those laid at the <i>iron</i> door of Schreckenwald, and who, in + 1467, was besieged, and brought to such a pass, that “he,” says + the chronicler, “who formerly was lord of six castles, perished in + poverty.” This Schekh or Sheckt-von-Wald, as the name appears in + the inscription, and the famous Schreckenwald, were, most probably, + one and the same person; and from the state of the present + building I should imagine it is more likely to have been built in + the fifteenth than the thirteenth century. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_74" href="#FNank_74" class="label">[74]</a> Matthias + Prideaux. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_75" href="#FNank_75" class="label">[75]</a> The present + arms of the Archduchy of Austria, viz. Gules, a Fess argent, are + derived from the circumstance of Leopold’s surcoat, which was of + cloth of silver, being completely stained with blood at the siege + of Ptolemais (Acre), with the exception of that part covered by the + belt round his waist. The original bearings of Leopold were azure, + six larks, or. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_76" href="#FNank_76" class="label">[76]</a> “Yes and No,” + one of the many titles given to Richard by the Provençal poets:— + </p> +<div class="center"> + <p class="cc"> + “And tell the Lord of Oc and No<br> + That peace already too long hath been.”<br><br> + Bertrand de Born. <i>Lays of the Minnesingers</i>, p. 233. + </p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_77" href="#FNank_77" class="label">[77]</a> “The + Troubadour and Richard Cœur de Lion.” Mrs. Hemans, though she + mentions “the Danube’s wave” in the same poem, has chosen to lay + the scene of Richard’s captivity on the Rhine. Her vivid fancy, + however, has actually depicted the rock and castle of Dürrenstein. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_78" href="#FNank_78" class="label">[78]</a> In the cliff + upon which this church stands, it is reported that a cavern has + been found, which is the mouth of a subterraneous passage, + communicating with the vaults of the castle. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_79" href="#FNank_79" class="label">[79]</a> Vie Politique + et Militaire de Napoléon, par le Général Jominy. 8vo. Paris, 1827, + vol. ii. pp. 151-3. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_80" href="#FNank_80" class="label">[80]</a> + Nibelungen-lied, V. 3533-5. It was the residence of his first + Queen, Helke, a lady of incomparable virtue. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_81" href="#FNank_81" class="label">[81]</a> I believe I + should say <i>were</i>, for the Antiquary of the Danube informs us, + that the lady’s maid was exorcised by a “barefooted monk,” and + quietly, I presume, laid in the Red Sea. The ghost of quality alone + was untractable. This spirit, it appears, had been dismissed from + the body by an enraged husband, at the moment of an awkward + discovery. The whole history, says the prudent antiquary, is to be + found in the archives of a certain noble house; but as it would + redound to the prejudice of the descendants, should the name be + made known, it has been passed over in silence. Some time ago an + attempt was made to pull down the building, but the indignant + phantom raised such a racket, that the workmen beat a retreat, and + the project was abandoned. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_82" href="#FNank_82" class="label">[82]</a> Much gold has + really been found in the sands of the Danube, the Inn, and the + Iser, and several <i>gold-waschereys</i>, as they are called, have + formerly existed on the banks of these rivers. The peculiar wealth + of the sands at Langenlebern has been accounted for, by the + peasantry, from the circumstance of Draculf, Bishop of Freysing, + being drowned off this bank, A.D. 926, and carrying down with him + forty pounds weight of gold, which he had smuggled out of the + Kloster of Mosburg, and had secured in his girdle! + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_83" href="#FNank_83" class="label">[83]</a> On some old + weapons in the Rüstkammer or armoury of the castle, the arms of the + house of Greifenstein are yet to be seen so blazoned. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_84" href="#FNank_84" class="label">[84]</a> A square hole + in the earth with an iron grating over it is still shown here as + the place of confinement of some clergyman, who shared his crust + with a young snake, that thrived so wonderfully upon prison + allowance, that self-preservation at last compelled him to kill it + while asleep with a stick, that is also shown in the dungeon. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_85" href="#FNank_85" class="label">[85]</a> It was + originally called Neuenburg, Neuenburch, and Niwenburg, and + appears to have been strongly fortified. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_86" href="#FNank_86" class="label">[86]</a> Albert IV., + Duke of Austria, died here on the 14th of September, 1404, in the + twenty-seventh year of his age; and the Empress Wilhelmina Amelia, + widow of Joseph I., also ended her days here in April 1742. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_87" href="#FNank_87" class="label">[87]</a> This Emperor, + who, to use his own words, “with the best intentions, never carried + a single project into execution,” in his laudable attempts to + purify religion from the dregs of superstition, reduced the number + of convents in Austria from two thousand and twenty-four, to seven + hundred. Vide Coxe’s <i>History of the House of Austria</i>. The + learned Archdeacon has justly and eloquently described the character + of the kind-hearted but inconsistent Joseph; but I am at a loss to + know why a Christian minister should include the following ordinance + amongst “the <i>childish</i> and <i>ridiculous</i> regulations” of + the Emperor. “Thou shalt forbear all occasions of dispute relative to + matters of faith; and thou shalt, according to the true principles of + Christianity, affectionately and kindly treat those who are not of + thy communion.” (Ord. October 24, 1781.) + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_88" href="#FNank_88" class="label">[88]</a> “That’s + fine!” or, as we should say, “capital.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_89" href="#FNank_89" class="label">[89]</a> “Ruhet sanft + auf diesen höhen edle gebeine tapferer Oesterreichs Krieger; Ruhm + bedeckt bey Aspern und Wagram gefallen vermag euer freund nicht, + die entseelten leichname zu beleben; sie zu ehren ist seine + pflicht.” + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_90" href="#FNank_90" class="label">[90]</a> Yes, there + is another. On the gates of the castle are daubed two sentinels + armed cap à pied! Forcibly recalling to my memory the figures + painted in the sentry-boxes, which were wont to delight and + terrify me when an urchin, and cause many a clandestine expedition + to Bayswater tea-gardens. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_91" href="#FNank_91" class="label">[91]</a> The oldest + piece of armour I have seen in Germany, is in the collection at the + Lowenburg, at Wilhelmshöe. It is a moveable visor of the close of + the fourteenth century; but both possessors and exhibitors are + evidently ignorant of its value and antiquity. + </p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + <p> + <a id="FN_92" href="#FNank_92" class="label">[92]</a> + “Blue-House,”—this, however, is a corruption. The name of + Blaue-Haus is derived, not from the ancient colour of its walls, + as the vulgar suppose, but from the family of Plauenstein, its + original possessors. + </p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<!-- T R A N S C R I B E R S N O T E S --> + +<div class="chapter transnote"> +<p class="center s4 ">TRANSCRIBERS' NOTES</p> +<p> +Spelling, including inconsistent usage and forms reflecting local, +historical, or foreign-language usage, has been retained as printed. +This includes apparent misspellings in German names or words +(e.g. Thurm/Thurn), which have not been changed. +</p> +<p> +Minor inconsistencies in spacing and punctuation have been silently +standardized. +</p> +<p> +Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected (e.g. +"astonishings pectacle"). +</p> +<p> +New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the +public domain. +</p> +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78472 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_a001.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_a001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2d5b398 --- /dev/null +++ b/78472-h/images/i_a001.jpg diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_b018.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_b018.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db5bbf8 --- /dev/null +++ b/78472-h/images/i_b018.jpg diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_c001.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_c001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2b1c4c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/78472-h/images/i_c001.jpg diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_c036.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_c036.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9632bbb --- /dev/null +++ b/78472-h/images/i_c036.jpg diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_cover.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..adfff53 --- /dev/null +++ b/78472-h/images/i_cover.jpg |
