Initial commit of ebook 78472 filesHEADmain

10 files changed, 15977 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/78472-0.txt b/78472-0.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4a313ee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-0.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6548 @@
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78472 ***
+
+
+
+
+                        DESCENT OF THE DANUBE,
+
+                                 FROM
+
+                          RATISBON TO VIENNA,
+
+                              DURING THE
+
+                            AUTUMN OF 1827.
+
+                                 WITH
+
+                     ANECDOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS,
+
+                      _HISTORICAL AND LEGENDARY_,
+
+                                OF THE
+
+                TOWNS, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc., UPON
+                        THE BANKS OF THE RIVER,
+
+      AND THEIR INHABITANTS AND PROPRIETORS, ANCIENT AND MODERN.
+
+
+                          +By+ J. R. PLANCHE,
+
+  AUTHOR OF “LAYS AND LEGENDS OF THE RHINE,” “OBERON,” AN OPERA, etc.
+
+             Ye glorious Gothic scenes! how much ye strike
+               All phantasies, not even excepting mine:
+             A grey wall, a green ruin, rusty pike,
+               Make my soul pass the equinoctial line,
+             Between the present and past worlds, and hover
+               Upon their airy confine, half-seas-over.
+
+                                                   +Don Juan+, Canto X.
+
+
+                                LONDON:
+              PRINTED FOR JAMES DUNCAN, PATERNOSTER-ROW.
+
+                             MDCCCXXVIII.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+      _On Stone by L. Haghe._      _W. Day Lithog. 17 Gate St._
+
+                          SCHLOSS BÖSENBEUG.
+
+ The Summer Residence of the Emperor of Austria and the Town of Ips on
+                             the Danube.]
+
+
+
+
+                                LONDON:
+                      Printed by +William Clowes+,
+                            Stamford Street.
+
+
+
+
+                                   TO
+
+                          SAMUEL RUSH MEYRICK,
+
+                  _OF GOODERICH COURT, HEREFORDSHIRE,_
+
+                                ESQUIRE,
+
+                        LL.D., F.S.A., etc. etc.
+
+                               THIS VOLUME
+
+                              IS INSCRIBED
+
+              BY HIS VERY SINCERE AND MUCH OBLIGED FRIEND,
+
+                                                          J. R. PLANCHE.
+
+
+ _Brompton-Crescent, July 1, 1828._
+
+
+
+
+                               PREFACE.
+
+
+It appears rather surprising that, while our printshops teem with
+views on the Rhine, and the shelves of our booksellers groan with
+the weight of Tours in its neighbourhood, no English pen or pencil
+should have been hitherto employed in illustration of the magnificent
+Danube. Captain Batty, it is true, in his beautiful work entitled
+“German Scenery,” has three or four views upon the river, and one or
+two modern tourists have slightly mentioned a town or so, which, lying
+on the post-road to Vienna, as well as on the banks of the Danube,
+they have passed through on their way to the Austrian capital. But,
+with the exception of the translation of Baron Riesbeck’s travels in
+Germany, published in the fifth volume of Pinkerton’s collection,
+which contains a very brief but faithful description of the river from
+Passau to Vienna, I am aware of few works in our language from which
+the slightest idea of its beauty and interest can be drawn, and of
+none absolutely dedicated to its history and illustration[1]. That the
+Danube should be so little known to our rambling countrymen is the more
+remarkable, as Vienna--voluptuous Vienna! is one of the points to which
+it leads, and the ease, pleasure, and velocity with which its stream
+may be descended, render, in commonly fair weather, the passage by
+water considerably preferable to the journey by land, though performed
+in the traveller’s own post-chariot; and as by land he _must_ return,
+he thus secures to himself the advantage of entirely new scenery, even
+if compelled by time or circumstances to retrace his line of route.
+
+The road from Frankfort to Ratisbon is replete with interest--the
+beautiful banks of the meandering Mein; the battle-field of Dettingen;
+the fine chateau and gardens of Aschaffenburg; Wurtzburg with its
+splendid palace, its rich conservatories and rock-throned citadel;
+Nürnberg, the birthplace of Albert Durer, with its fantastic
+buildings, and gorgeous cathedral, all tempt the wanderer on to the
+heights of Hohen-Schambach, where the plain of the Danube bursts upon
+his view. The return from Vienna, by Salzburg and Munich, or through
+the Tyrol to the Lake of Constanz, and _so down the Rhine home_, leaves
+nothing to be wished for in point of scenery; while six weeks or two
+months, provided the traveller be not ensnared by the gaieties of
+Vienna, are amply sufficient, in fair weather, for the whole of the
+journey.
+
+Having sought in vain, on my departure from England, for a book which
+would serve me as a guide and companion down the Danube, I was induced
+to take a few notes and sketches during my little voyage, in the hope
+that, when thrown, at my leisure, into something like a readable shape,
+they might become useful to future travellers, by at least standing
+in the gap till some abler hand should supply the desideratum. In
+the pursuance of this object, I was greatly assisted by a copy of
+Professor Schultes’ Donau-Reise[2], the best foreign guide down the
+Danube; but which is yet incomplete, and suppressed in Austria on
+account of its political and religious opinions. At the same time,
+however, that I acknowledge my obligations to this work, from which
+I have gleaned much information on points that could only have been
+explained by a native, or one long resident in the country, I must take
+the liberty of expressing my objection to its style, which renders
+its perusal a task to Germans themselves, and must make it almost a
+sealed book to a foreigner. Herr Schultes’ prolixity, and love of
+inversion, are enough to drive an English reader crazy. The latter,
+indeed, he carries to such an extent, that the waggish description of
+“the-in-general-strewed-with-cabbage-stalks-but-on-a-Saturday-night-
+lighted-up-with-lamps-market of Covent Garden” must hide its
+diminished head. The learned Professor sometimes keeps his inquisitive
+victim on the rack for pages, before he deigns to disclose the word
+which solves the enigma of his apparently interminable sentence. He
+seems to glory in this species of mystification, and, like poor dear
+innocent Dogberry, were he “as tedious as a king,” he would “bestow
+it all upon your worship.” Still, however, “there is matter in this
+madness,” and the Professor has been a diligent digger. The list of
+German authors, both ancient and modern, who have written upon the
+antiquities, history, and natural productions of the towns and shores
+of the Danube, was invaluable to a stranger like myself, as it enabled
+me at once to lay my hands upon authorities ‘pour vérifier les dates,’
+etc. ‘Die Burgvesten und Ritterschlosser der Oestreichischen Monarchie,
+4 T. Brunn, 1820,’ is another work, which has afforded me much curious
+legendary material; as have also the ‘Taschenbuch zur Geschichte
+verfallener Ritterburgen,’ etc., Wien, 1826, and other similar
+publications.
+
+The Danube, whose waves have witnessed the march of Attila, of
+Charlemagne, of Gustavus Adolphus, and Napoleon; whose shores have
+echoed the blast of the Roman trumpet, the hymn of the Pilgrim of
+the Cross, and the “wild halloo” of the sons of Islam, whose name
+is equally dear to history and fable; to him who, in fancy, sees
+the lion-hearted Richard of England languishing for his native
+land, or follows the beautiful widow of Siegfried to the “rich King
+Etzel’s court,”--that such a theme was worthy of being treated by
+the first writers in our language, was an awful consideration for
+one of the humblest; that it had not been touched upon by any was
+the only encouragement. “You have often scribbled successfully for
+the stage,” said my friend ----, “why should you fear to write for
+the passage-boat?” The joke was a vile one, but the argument was
+conclusive. Gentle reader, this is my first appearance in the character
+of a tourist. I have taken the part at a short notice, no one else
+having appeared to sustain it, and respectfully solicit the usual
+indulgence.
+
+
+                       FOOTNOTES (PREFACE)
+
+[1] While this volume was passing through the press, “A Summer’s Ramble
+amongst the Musicians in Germany” appeared, in which pleasant book, a
+dozen pages are allotted to an equally brief and spirited notice of
+the banks of the Danube from Passau to Vienna. Upwards of one hundred
+years ago, Lady M. W. Montague descended the Danube from Ratisbon to
+Vienna, a voyage of which she dismisses her account, in a dozen lines.
+“We travelled by water from Ratisbon,” says the fair writer, “a journey
+perfectly agreeable down the Danube, in one of those little vessels
+that they very properly call wooden houses, having in them all the
+_conveniences of a palace, stoves in the chambers, kitchens_, etc.” (I
+do not know what exertions might have been made for the accommodation
+of a British Ambassador, his Lady and suite, but the Danube, I suspect,
+has not seen such another boat during the last century.) “They are
+rowed by twelve men each, and move with such incredible swiftness, that
+in the same day you have the pleasure of a vast variety of prospects;
+and within the space of a few hours, you have the pleasure of seeing a
+populous city, adorned with magnificent palaces, and the most romantic
+solitudes which appear distant from the commerce of mankind, the banks
+of the Danube being charmingly diversified with woods, rocks, mountains
+covered with vines, fields of corn, large cities, and ruins of ancient
+castles.”--_Letter to the Countess of Mar_, dated Vienna, September
+18th, o. s. 1716.
+
+[2] Ein handbuch für Reisende auf der Donau. Von J. A. Schultes, M. Dr.
+etc. Wien, 1819. Stuttgart, 1827.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS.
+
+
+                              CHAPTER I.
+
+                                                                   Page
+
+  First View of the Danube and Ratisbon--Description of Boats on the
+  Danube--The City of Ratisbon--The Cathedral--The Heide Platz--Church
+  of the Scotch Benedictines--The Bridges--The Rath-haus--The Abbey of
+  St. Emmeram--Story of Frederick von Ewesheim--Church of the Dominicans
+  --The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche--Ober and Nieder Münster--Karmeliten Kloster
+  --The Horses’ Church--The Promenades--Unterhaltungs Haus--Maximilian
+  Joseph Gasse--David and Goliath--Embarkation--Wörth--Donaustauf--The
+  Dunkel-boden--Sossau
+                                                                     1
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+  Straubing--The Bridge--The Hauptstrasse--The Stadtthurm--The
+  Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche--Story of Agnes Bernauer--The
+  Ramparts--The Atzelburg--Ober Altaich--Bogenberg--Kloster
+  Metten--The Natternberg--Deggendorf--The Gnade Zeit--Confluence
+  of the Isar and the Danube--Rafts from Munich to Vienna--Nieder
+  Altaich--Hengersberg--Osterhofen--Hoch-winzer--Hofkirchen--Kinzing--
+  Hildegartsberg--Vilshofen--Collegiat Stift--The Sandbach--New Road
+  to Passau--Maximilian Joseph I., late King of Bavaria--Louis I., the
+  present Monarch--Statue of a Lion--Approach to Passau
+                                                                    32
+
+
+                             CHAPTER III.
+
+Passau--The Inn-stadt--The Fair--The Cathedral--The
+Bridge--Fortress of Oberhaus--Celebrated View--Mariahilf--The
+Ilz-stadt--The Sword Cutlery--Present Manufactures and Commerce
+of Passau--Talismans--Goitres--Excursions into the Environs of
+Passau--Confluence of the Inn and the Danube--Krempenstein--Hafner
+Zell--Its Manufactories--Fichtenstein--The Jochenstein--The Ruin of
+Ried
+                                                                    77
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Engelhard’s-zell--Rana-riedl--Marsbach--Wesen
+  Urfar--Waldkirche--Hayenbach--The Schlägen--The Rhine and the
+  Danube contrasted--Ober Michl--Neuhaus--Aschach--The paper-money of
+  Austria--Castle of Schaumberg--Environs of Aschach--Ober Walsee--Story
+  of Hans von Eschelberg--Sketch of the Insurrections in the Seventeenth
+  Century
+                                                                    96
+
+
+                              CHAPTER V.
+
+  Efferding--Ottensheim--Kloster-Willering--Linz--The Platz--The
+  Landstrasse--The Schlossberg--The Landhaus--The Theatre--The
+  Bridge--The Pöstlingberg--View on leaving Linz--Steyereck--The
+  River Traun--Ebelsberg--Luftenberg--Monastery of St.
+  Florian--Tillysburg--Spielberg--Mauthausen--Ens--Origin and History of
+  the City--Antiquities discovered in its neighbourhood
+                                                                   137
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Nieder-Walsee--Castles of Clam and Kreuzen--Ardagger--Grein--The
+  Strudel and the Wirbel--Mistakes of various Authors concerning
+  them--St. Nikola--Sarblingstein--Freystein--Hirschau--The
+  Isper--Bösenbeug--Story of Bishop Bruno and the Lady
+  Richlita--Ips--Gottsdorf
+                                                                   180
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Marbach--Maria-Taferl--Pechlarn--Wiedeneck--Mölk--Lubereck--The Valley
+  of the Wachau--Schönbühel--Aggstein--The Teufel’s Mauer--Spitz, and
+  the Ruin of Hinterhaus--Church and Village of St. Michel--Castle of
+  Dürrenstein--Narrow escape of Marshal Mortier during the Campaign of
+  1805--Mautern--Stein--Krems--Kloster Göttweih--Trasen-Mauer--Arrival
+  at Tuln
+                                                                   217
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Tuln--Langenlebern--Greifenstein--Story of Etelina--Korneuberg--The
+  Bisamberg--Kloster Neuburg--Leopoldsberg, and the Khalenberg--A
+  glimpse of the capital--Nussdorf--Arrival at Vienna--Bird’s-eye View
+  and Description of the Environs from the Temple of Glory in the Brühl
+                                                                   267
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: A MAP +_OF THE_+ DANUBE +_FROM_+ RATISBON +_TO_+
+VIENNA.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Common passage-boat from Ratisbon to Vienna.]
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER I.
+
+  First View of the Danube and Ratisbon--Description of Boats on the
+  Danube--The City of Ratisbon--The Cathedral--The Heide Platz--Church
+  of the Scotch Benedictines--The Bridges--The Rath-haus--The Abbey of
+  St. Emmeram--Story of Frederick von Ewesheim--Church of the Dominicans
+  --The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche--Ober and Nieder Münster--Karmeliten Kloster
+  --The Horses’ Church--The Promenades--Unterhaltungs Haus--Maximilian
+  Joseph Gasse--David and Goliath--Embarkation--Wörth--Donaustauf--The
+  Dunkel-boden--Sossau.
+
+
+I believe it is Doctor Clarke who advises travellers never to see a
+mountain without going to the top of it. I should rather say, never see
+a river without following the course of it. One very extensive prospect
+too nearly resembles another, particularly in the same country, to
+give additional gratification, and I have not unfrequently, like
+the celebrated King of France, “marched up a hill, and then marched
+down again,” to about as little purpose. But never did I follow the
+course of a stream, however insignificant, without being surprised and
+delighted. Without water, the loveliest prospect is incomplete. Lakes
+and rivers are the eyes of the earth; the want of them cannot be atoned
+for by the beauty of its other features, however exquisite.
+
+The formidable account of some friends who had made the voyage, backed,
+as it seemed to be, by a twaddling notice in a German Guide-Book, had
+nearly dissuaded me from descending the Danube to Vienna. But the first
+glimpse of its magnificent flood, rolling through the broad and fertile
+plain, in the centre of which the ancient city of Ratisbon rears its
+sombre cathedral, and winding away into the horizon amongst the shadowy
+mountains of the Böhmer-wald, renewed my original determination; and my
+first care, on finding myself safely deposited in the excellent hotel,
+Das Goldene Kreutz, on the Heide Platz, was to make the necessary
+inquiries how, when, and where I should embark on the “thundering
+river[3].”
+
+The regular passage-boat from Ratisbon to Vienna was to start on the
+following morning at eight o’clock, and for the very moderate sum of
+five florins, not quite ten shillings English, would have landed me
+in the Austrian capital in about five or six days, according to the
+weather. But as neither I nor my companion was willing, for a slight
+pecuniary consideration, to risk a serious diminution of the pleasures
+of the voyage by a crowded deck, a filthy cabin, bad company, and
+miserable fare, I applied to a Schiffmeister of Stadt-am-hof, the
+little fauxbourg of Ratisbon, on the left bank of the Danube, who
+agreed to furnish us with a boat, steersman, and crew for the sum of
+twenty ducats, about ten pounds sterling, and to assure our arrival at
+Vienna in four days, or four and a half at farthest.
+
+The boats on the Danube, though of various names and sizes, are nearly
+all of one shape. That which I hired is called, in the peculiar patois
+of the Bavarian boatmen, a Weitz-zille, and is the sort of conveyance
+particularly appropriated to private travelling. It is about forty
+feet long, and composed of rough deal planks, nailed rudely together,
+the ribs being of natural branches, and caulked with moss. In the
+centre is a kind of awning, or rather hut, of the same unpretending
+materials. It is flat-bottomed, as are all the craft upon this
+river, and, in short, is little more than a large rude punt. Sails
+are unknown upon the Danube; it is therefore rowed by two men, and
+steered by a third, with long clumsy-looking paddles, tied to upright
+posts, upon which every now and then water is flung to make them work
+easy, and avoid ignition. The Coche d’eau, or common passage-boat,
+is rather larger, and is called a Gamsel, or a Kellhaimer. Those
+used for the conveyance of merchandise, are known by the names of
+Hochnauen, Klobzillen, (facetiously termed vessels of the line by
+Professor Schultes,) Nebenbeys, Schwernmern, etc., all of the same
+fashion, keelless, sailless, their plain deal sides daubed with broad
+perpendicular stripes of black paint, their only ornament. Some of the
+larger are nearly one hundred and fifty feet long; and, in ascending
+the river, are towed, four or five together, by from thirty to forty
+horses. The drivers are called Jodelen, and a more singular set of
+beings can scarcely be imagined. In appearance they are something
+between the English dustman and drayman, but the lowest of either of
+those worthies might pass for a scholar and a gentleman by the side of
+a real Jodel. From the moment the Danube becomes navigable, till it is
+again chained up in ice, these fellows never enter the humblest hovel,
+or mix with men of other callings, but even sleep upon the river’s bank
+beside their horses. A miserable superstition exists amongst them. They
+believe that some of their number must every year be sacrificed to the
+Spirit of the Waters, and, consequently, when an accident occurs, they
+all scramble for the drowning man’s hat, but never think of stretching
+out a finger to save him, whom they look upon as a doomed and demanded
+victim. Professor Schultes declares that he once saw five jodelen,
+with their horses, precipitated into the river, when their companions
+hastily cut the ropes, to prevent the rest of the team from following,
+and drove on, leaving the poor wretches to their fate.
+
+Before I step into my little bark, however, the old city of Ratisbon,
+or, more properly Regensburg, claims a few moments’ attention. The
+Regina Castra of the Romans has had twenty different names[4], and,
+according to Günther, owes that of Ratisbona, or Ratispona, to its
+convenience as a landing place.
+
+    “Inde Ratisbonæ vetus ex hoc nomen habenti
+    Quod _bona_ sit _ratibus_, vel quod consuevit in illa
+    _Ponere_ nauta _rates_.”
+
+Near it, the little river Regen falls into the Danube, from whence
+its German appellation of Regensburg. One of the chief towns on the
+Illyrian frontier, here the Roman merchant traded for furs, and the
+eagle of the “Legio tertia Italica” long glittered in the sight of the
+humbled barbarians. From Regensburg the “furious Frank” rushed, beneath
+the banners of Charlemagne, to his Pannonian victories. Under Arnulph
+the Bastard, it became a flourishing commercial and manufacturing town.
+In 1106, the unfortunate Emperor Henry IV. here resigned his crown and
+sceptre to his unnatural son. In 1193, Richard Cœur de Lion was sent
+hither a prisoner to the Emperor Henry VI., who re-delivered him to
+his sworn foe and captor, Leopold Duke of Austria. Here, on the 12th
+of October, 1576, expired the Emperor Maximilian II., in whose favour
+Germany revived the surname of Titus, or the Delight of Mankind.
+No stronger proof of his great and amiable qualities can be given,
+than the concurring testimony of the historians of Germany, Hungary,
+Bohemia, and Austria, both Catholics and Protestants, who vie in his
+praises, and in representing him as a model of impartiality, wisdom,
+and benignity[5]. “It excites a melancholy regret,” says Wraxall, “to
+reflect that the reign of so excellent a sovereign as Maximilian was
+limited to the transitory period of twelve years, while Philip II., the
+scourge of his own subjects and of Europe, occupied the throne during
+more than forty. The Romans might, with equal reason, have lamented
+that the tyranny of Tiberius lasted above twenty years, when the benign
+administration of Titus scarcely exceeded as many months[6].” In 1633,
+Ratisbon was taken by Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar, and retaken by the
+allied Bavarians and Austrians, commanded by Ferdinand King of Hungary,
+in the following year. In 1641, the Swedes, under the famous General
+Banner, cannonaded it; and on the 21st of April, 1809, it was taken by
+the French, after a desperate conflict, being the fourteenth time, in
+the course of nine hundred years, that this unfortunate city has been
+visited by the united horrors of war.
+
+Its grand but gloomy cathedral contains some curious sculpture, and
+some richly painted windows, the blues in which are remarkable for
+their brilliancy. The date, 1482, is upon the upper part of an angular
+porch; but the façade of the building, the singular well, the richly
+ornamented canopies on columns, in various parts of the interior,
+and the equestrian statues of Saint Martin and another, are all of
+an earlier period.[7] In the chancel, near the altar, is deposited
+the heart of the Emperor Maximilian I.; and in a chapel on the south
+side of the chancel, within a glass case, is the recumbent effigy, in
+wax, of Saint John of Nepomuck, the celebrated confessor of the wife
+of Wenceslaus, king of Bohemia, who refusing to divulge the secrets
+of his royal penitent was thrown into prison, tortured, and, finally,
+flung over the bridge at Prague and drowned, by the king’s order. His
+statue, in the habit of the Jesuits, is to be seen on nearly every
+bridge in the south of Germany; he, who perished by water, being
+curiously enough selected from the list of saints as the protector
+of all who travel on that element. On an altar-tomb, in the nave, is
+a splendid bronze effigy of a Bishop of Ratisbon and Duke of Bavaria
+kneeling to a crucifix. On the Heide Platz, or Place of the Pagan, a
+terrible combat is said to have been fought, between a gigantic Hun
+named Craco, who had flung forty knights out of their saddles, and Hans
+Dollinger, a valiant burgher of the town, during the reign, and in the
+presence of Henry the Fowler. The emperor crossed the panting champion
+twice upon the mouth, and to the virtue of these holy signs the defeat
+of the Pagan is principally attributed[8]. Craco’s sword, measuring
+nearly eight feet, and his ponderous helmet, hung for some time in
+the choir of Nieder Münster. The sword is now at Vienna, whither it
+was taken in 1542. On the side of a house, in the Kohlen-markt, is a
+representation of this combat; and the square itself, I have little
+doubt, formed originally part of the Heide Platz, from which it is
+at present separated by a row of comparatively modern erections. The
+church of the Scotch Benedictines, near the Jacobs-Thor, has a fine
+portal, of apparently the twelfth century. There is a tragical story
+told of its last abbot, Gallus, who was compelled to see a beloved
+brother torn to pieces without daring to acknowledge him; but I was
+not able to learn the particulars, though, Schultes says, they are
+of general notoriety. The celebrated bridge across the Danube is a
+clumsy-looking affair, and sadly disappoints the expectant traveller:
+the honour of its erection is hotly disputed between Henry the Proud
+and----the Devil[9]! Their imperial and satanic majesties have each
+their zealous partisans, but the proofs are in favour of the earthly
+potentate, who, in conjunction with the town of Ratisbon, commenced the
+work A.D. 1135. It was finished in 1146. It is of free-stone, supported
+by piles of oak driven to a considerable depth in the bed of the river,
+consists of fifteen arches, and is one thousand and ninety-one feet
+in length. Of the three principal bridges of Germany, that of Dresden
+is said to be the most elegant; that of Prague, the longest; and that
+of Ratisbon, the strongest. Besides this stone bridge there are two
+wooden bridges, one very small, connecting the stone bridge with a long
+island in the middle of the river, and another of larger dimensions,
+which leads from the island to the city near the Nieder Münster. In
+the Kohlenmarkt stands the Rathhaus, or Hotel de Ville, where from
+1662 to 1806 the diet was held. Justice and Fortune have inherited
+the building. The Tribunal of Police is established in one part of
+it, and the Lottery is drawn in the other. Its curious old gate and
+bay-window are in excellent preservation. Their arches and crocketted
+pinnacles are of the thirteenth century, and greatly resemble those of
+the monument of our Edward I. at Westminster. The two figures above
+the gate, one bearing a martel de fer, and the other in the act of
+flinging a stone, are of the close of the fifteenth century: beneath
+each is a shield with the arms of the city. The Abbey of Saint Emmeram
+is now the residence of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis: his gardens
+are kindly thrown open to the public from six in the morning to six
+in the evening. Saint Emmeram was a Frenchman, a native of Poictiers,
+who, having visited the court of Theodo, was suspected of an illicit
+amour with the princess his daughter, and murdered by her brother at
+Helfendorf, A.D. 652. In the vaults of this building lie Childeric,
+the deposed king of France, the Emperor Arnulph, and his son Ludwig
+IV., the celebrated historian John Aventine, Saint Wolfgang, and Saint
+Dionysius, the Areopagite. The body of the latter saint is said to have
+been purloined from the Abbey of Saint Denis, in France, in the year
+893; and Pope Leo XI., in a particular bull, absolutely threatened
+with excommunication all who dared doubt the genuineness of the holy
+corpse[10]: “notwithstanding which,” says Keysler, “the monks of Saint
+Denys, near Paris, insist that the body of that saint is actually in
+their possession; and his head is shown in the third shrine of their
+treasury. On the other hand, the monks of Saint Emmeram maintain, that
+the only part wanting in their relique, is the middle finger of the
+right hand. However, an entire hand of this saint is shown at a chapel
+in Munich. His head is also devoutly worshipped in the cathedral of
+Bamberg; and at Prague another head of that saint is kept in the Church
+of Saint Vitus in the Castle[11].” This abbey formerly possessed an
+altar of solid gold, a fine manuscript of the Gospels, written in gold,
+the cover ornamented with precious stones, and presented by Charles
+the Bald to the monks of Saint Denis; another copy, said to have been
+written in 751 by a bishop, in the ninetieth year of his age, and
+many other valuable curiosities. The MSS. are, I believe, still in
+existence[12]. Gemeiner, in his chronicle, has a story connected with
+the edifice, sufficiently illustrative of the period of its action to
+merit insertion; besides which I doat upon old stories, and fairly warn
+that “gentle reader,” who may not have the same predilection, to lay
+down the book in time, as it is only when, like the Knife-grinder, “I
+have none to tell,” that he has the slightest chance of escape from
+them.
+
+A certain worthy Bishop of Regensburg, not contented with fleecing
+his flock, according to the approved and legitimate method, made it a
+point of conscience to waylay and plunder his beloved brethren whenever
+they ventured near the Castle of Donaustauf, in which he resided upon
+the banks of the Danube, a little below the town. In the month of
+November 1250, says the chronicle, tidings came to Donaustauf, that,
+on the following morning, the daughter of Duke Albert of Saxony would
+pass that way, with a gorgeous and gallant escort. The bait was too
+tempting for the prelate. He sallied out upon the glittering cortege,
+and seizing the princess and forty of her noblest attendants, led them
+captives to Donaustauf. The astonished remainder fled for redress, some
+to King Conrad, and others to Duke Otho, at Landshut, who immediately
+took arms, and carrying fire and sword into the episcopal territories,
+soon compelled the holy highwayman to make restitution and sue for
+mercy. Conrad, satisfied with his submission, forgave him; in return
+for which the Bishop bribed a vassal, named Conrad Hohenfels, to
+murder his royal namesake; and, accordingly, in the night of the 28th
+of December, the traitor entered the Abbey of Saint Emmerams, where
+the king had taken up his abode, and stealing into the royal chamber
+stabbed the sleeper to the heart; then running to the gates of the
+city, threw them open to the bishop and his retainers, exclaiming that
+the king was dead. The traitors were, however, disappointed. Frederich
+von Ewesheim, a devoted servant of the king, suspecting some evil, had
+persuaded the monarch to exchange clothes and chambers with him, and
+the assassin’s dagger had pierced the heart, not of Conrad, but of
+his true and gallant officer. The bishop escaped the royal vengeance
+by flight; but the abbot of Saint Emmeram’s, who had joined the
+conspirators, was flung into chains; and the abbey, the houses of the
+chapter, and all the ecclesiastical residences, were plundered by the
+king’s soldiery. The pope, as might be expected, sided with the bishop
+and excommunicated Conrad and Otho; but the murderer Hohenfels, after
+having for some time eluded justice, was killed by a thunderbolt!
+
+In the church of the Dominicans is a chapel where Albertus Magnus,
+Bishop of Ratisbon, the successor of his unworthy namesake, is said
+to have given his lectures. This great philosopher and excellent
+prelate is reported by the ancient chroniclers to have possessed
+the accommodating but rather extraordinary faculty attributed to the
+Irishman’s bird, viz. that of being in two places at once. It is
+asserted that, at the very moment he was holding forth to his attentive
+pupils from the chair still exhibited in the chapel, he was to be seen
+busily employed in his study at Donaustauf, about twelve miles off. For
+despatch of business this must have been an invaluable accomplishment,
+and accounts most satisfactorily for the magnitude and research of his
+literary and scientific labours. The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche was formerly
+famous for a shrine of the Virgin called the Schöne Maria, to which
+from ten to twelve thousand pilgrims frequently repaired at a time from
+different parts of Bavaria. The Ober Münster and the Nieder Münster
+were both convents, the abbesses of which alone were obliged to take
+the vow of chastity. Otto II. and his Empress Adelheid are buried in
+the latter, which was founded in the tenth century by Judith, daughter
+of Arnold, Duke of Bavaria, and wife of Duke Henry I. The Ober Münster
+was founded by Hemma, Queen of Louis the German, who is buried here.
+The Karmeliten Kloster, founded by the Emperor Ferdinand in 1641, is
+now the custom-house and the town-jail. In Ratisbon, formerly, even
+the horses went to church! On Saint Leonard’s Day the peasantry of the
+neighbourhood brought their whole stud gaily caparisoned, and indulged
+each animal with a peep into the Maltheser-Kirche, a pious precaution,
+which was supposed to preserve them the year round from the staggers,
+and indeed every other disorder that horse-flesh is heir to.
+
+I had nearly forgotten the promenades. They are pretty, and run all
+round the town. The remains of an old cross are pointed out in them, as
+having once been the centre of the city. In another part is a temple
+to the memory of Keppler, the astronomer, who died here in 1630, and
+of whom, says Prof. Schultes, it may be said as of our English poet
+Butler, “He asked for bread, and they gave him a stone.” A monument
+has also been erected to a M. Goertz, “parcequ’il étoit assez riche,”
+said our domestique de place, an excellent reason, and one which
+has justified many a more extraordinary proceeding. Then there are
+the Unterhaltungshaus, (a handsome building, which combines the
+theatre, the assembly-rooms, and heaven knows what besides)--the new
+Maximilian-Joseph-Gasse, which has risen upon the ruins of 1809, and
+the nearly effaced figures of Goliath and David upon the wall of a
+house, the work apparently of the sixteenth century.
+
+And now farewell, old Regensburg! The Roman, the Vandal, the Frank and
+the Hun, the Bohemian, the Austrian, and the Swede, the ancient and
+the modern Gaul, have, by turns, besieged, stormed, plundered, and
+burnt thee. Thy air of gravity becomes a city that hath suffered and
+survived so many disasters; and the antique gold and silver coifs that
+glitter on the braided locks of thy fair daughters, harmonize well
+with the Gothic glories of thy cathedral and the romantic interest
+of thy Turnier-Platz. I confess it grieves me to notice the gradual
+disappearance throughout the Continent of those distinctions of dress
+which have hitherto seemed, as strongly as language and countenance, to
+mark out the natural boundaries of nations and provinces: but I console
+myself with the hope, that Europe may, with its old habits, fling off
+its old prejudices, and that its millions will finally become as much
+like one great family in affection, as they promise to look, shortly,
+from the uniformity of their costume.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On Monday, September 9, about eight in the morning, having completed
+our simple preparations, and safely stowed away under the benches
+of our little cabin a hamper containing some eatables and a few
+bottles of excellent Rhenish and Austrian wines, we stept into our
+weitz-zille, which awaited us just above the stone bridge, and having
+shot through an arch of it where there is a fall something like that
+at old London at half-flood, and struggled a few moments with a strong
+eddy, occasioned by an island and some corn-mills, we passed under
+the wooden bridge, and commenced our voyage, a strong wind blowing
+unfortunately right in our teeth. The sky was however cloudless, and
+the day, as it advanced, proving exceedingly warm, the wind was only
+unwelcome as it threatened to retard, in some measure, our progress,
+and prevent our making the proposed landing and resting-places in due
+time. The average depth of the Danube between Donauworth and Passau,
+according to H. von Riedl, is ten feet; near Regensburg it is about
+eleven feet deep, and something broader than the Thames at Putney.
+The right bank of the river, nearly all the way to Straubing, is low,
+sedgy, and Dutch like. St. Niklas, Einhausen, Irl, Ober, and Unter
+Bärbing or Barbling, are the names of the little old villages that are
+scattered along it; but, on the left bank, the eye is soon attracted
+by the bold mountains which, abruptly rising behind the villages of
+Regenhausen, Weichs, Schwabelweiss, and Dergenheim, or Tegenheim,
+follow the windings of the flood in an almost unbroken chain to within
+a few miles of Vienna. The ruins of the castle of Donaustauf, cresting
+a round, bluff rock, having at its foot the little market-town of
+the same name, are the first interesting object that presents itself
+on approaching them. The great strength and commanding situation of
+this fortress, anciently called Toumstouphen, rendered it an object
+of considerable importance during the middle ages; and many are the
+tales of the “Battles, sieges, fortunes, _it hath_ past.” Henry the
+Proud having taken it from the cathedral and chapter of Regensburg
+in 1132, the citizens invested it in the following year so closely,
+that the garrison, driven to extremities by hunger, set fire to the
+building, and sallying forth, cut their way through the besiegers.
+In 1146 it was again taken; and in 1159 again besieged. In 1250 it
+was the scene of that outrage which has already been related in the
+story of Frederich von Ewesheim. After the death of Albertus Magnus,
+who, in 1260, succeeded his notorious namesake, and here pursued his
+studies, Donaustauf was again snatched from its holy masters, and once
+more restored to them, through the assistance of Bavaria, in 1343. In
+1355 it was pledged to the counsellor Ruger Reich for eleven thousand
+eight hundred and thirty-five florins, and sold afterwards to Charles
+IV. of Bohemia for five thousand. In vain did the holy fathers protest
+against the sale, and denounce spiritual as well as temporal vengeance
+against the purchaser. Charles was too shrewd and too powerful to fear
+either; and so long as he lived, Donaustauf remained the barrier of
+Bohemia. Under his feeble successors, however, the chapter recovered
+its fortress, and in 1486 it was again pledged to Bavaria. Bernhard,
+Duke of Saxe-Weimar, took it, and reduced it to its present condition
+in 1634. The Prince of Thurm and Taxis, who bought the lordship
+of Worth, in which it is situated, keeps, if I may be allowed the
+expression, the ruin in repair, and bestows some care on the gardens,
+which clothe the eastern side of its mountain seat. From the ramparts,
+the view extends eastwards over Wörth to Straubing and Bogen; and
+westward, over Ratisbon, to the mountains of Abach. On either side, the
+eye traces the bright Danube, now flowing majestically right onwards,
+now boldly sweeping round some rocky point, or gracefully winding
+amidst large tracts of meadow land--here almost doubling itself by a
+sudden and unexpected curve, and, lost for a short time amongst groves
+and hamlets, glittering again like a broad lake, where it resumes its
+eastern course far in the blue distance. Directly beneath lie the
+little market-town of Donaustauf; the church of Saint Salvator, which
+was built, according to Schultes, in expiation of the crime of some
+soldiers who dishonoured the Host; the wooden bridge, said to be one of
+the longest on the river, and which is partially destroyed every year
+in order to give passage to the ice; and below it, on the left bank,
+numberless gardens and vineyards, spotted with the white villas of the
+wealthy citizens of Regensburg, who, escaping from commercial cares,
+on a fine summer Sunday evening, look back through the smoke of their
+pipes upon the dusky towers of their cathedral with, no doubt, similar
+feelings of satisfaction to those with which the London tradesman
+observes from his retreat at Highgate, or Hornsey, the distant dome
+of Saint Paul’s rising above the smother of our huge metropolis.
+Leaving Donaustauf, we passed the small village of Sulzbach, Demling,
+Bach, (celebrated for the mines in its neighbourhood,) Frenkhofen,
+Krukenberg, Oberach, Kirchkirfen or Kirfen-holz, and Wisent, on the
+little stream of that name, on the left bank; and those of Sarching,
+Friesheim, Ilkhofen, Auburg, Eltheim, Saissling, and Seppenhausen,
+on the right, some of them consisting of scarcely half a dozen
+houses, their humble, white-washed churches roofed with shingles, and
+the little Kremlin-looking cupolas of their steeples painted a deep
+red. We now rapidly approached Wörth, the chateau of the Prince of
+Thurm and Taxis, which had been visible from the time of our passing
+Kirfenholz, but, from the extraordinary sinuosities of the river,
+appeared, at one moment, to have been left entirely behind us. The
+exterior is anything but prepossessing, recalling to the mind of a
+cockney, like myself, the dead walls and extinguisher-capped towers
+of the Penitentiary at Milbank. The dark firs that rise beside it,
+and the rich meadows that gently slope from its terrace wall to the
+water’s edge, are, it must be confessed, infinitely more romantic and
+ornamental than the rows of cabbages and stunted willows that form the
+foreground to its inglorious likeness,--still the idea of a prison
+would, I think, be with any stranger the predominant one. Wörth is,
+however, a palace, and, no doubt, handsome enough when you are in it.
+It has been, like most of the castles and palaces in this part of the
+world, bought and sold, pledged and redeemed for all sorts of sums
+by all sorts of people. Those who wish to know the exact number of
+florins it was valued at during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries,
+will find them scrupulously set down by Prof. Schultes; but, as no
+matters of historical or romantic interest are connected with its
+various transfers, I shall content myself by merely stating, that
+it was anciently the property of the bishops of Ratisbon, and came
+to Bavaria in 1809, shortly after which period it was bought by its
+present possessor. Nearly opposite Wörth, upon the right bank, is the
+small town of Pfätter, or Pfada, as it is called in the dialect of
+the country, the first post-station from Ratisbon. A little streamlet
+of the same name falls into the Danube beside it. A dozen small
+villages, remarkable only for appellations that would cost an untutored
+Englishman as many teeth to speak them--Gmünden, Tiefer-thal, Hochdorf,
+Stadeldorf, Niederachdorf, Sinzendorf, Hünthofen, Kirchenroth, Ober
+and Unter Motzing, Kessnach, Hartzeitdorn, etc., are scattered along
+the banks, both now exceedingly flat and uninteresting, the mountains
+on the left having retreated from the river, which here winds and
+doubles like a hunted hare. My companion and I therefore landed, and
+leaving the boat to thread the mazes of this watery labyrinth, strode
+forward at a good round pace across the fields towards Straubing,
+the tin-capped steeples of which were flashing back the rays of the
+setting sun. The great plain extending from the gates of Ratisbon,
+as far as Pleinting, is supposed to have been once a large morass,
+which, on being drained, has left a rich black soil several feet deep
+(the celebrated Dunkelboden.) The peasantry of this favoured district
+are exceedingly proud, and fond of all kinds of finery. The finest
+Swiss and Dutch linen, silk and satin kerchiefs of the gayest hues,
+Brabant lace, and gold and silver stuffs of all descriptions, are in
+constant requisition. The men wear gold rings, and generally two gold
+watches. The black velvet or embroidered silk boddices of the women
+are laced with massive silver chains, from which hang a profusion of
+gold and silver trinkets, hearts, crosses, coins, medals, etc. The
+custom of tying a black silk handkerchief round the neck, with the bow
+behind, and the ends hanging down the back, is, I think, peculiar to
+Bavaria. A wedding here is a scene of great extravagance and uproar;
+many tables, accommodating at least a dozen persons each, are set
+out with all manner of good things, and the feasting continues for
+several days, all day long. Ignorant, however, as they are wealthy and
+luxurious, few even of the most respectable amongst them can either
+read or write, and are therefore, says Schultes, entitled in every
+respect to the appellation by which they are generally distinguished,
+i. e. “Bauern vom Dunkelboden”--“Peasants of the dark earth.” Sossau,
+on the left bank, shortly after you enter the Landgericht of Straubing,
+is celebrated for a picture of the Virgin, which, in 1534, the angels
+brought here in a boat, from a village where the doctrines of Luther
+had taken root, to the great indignation of the holy portrait. Those
+who are sufficiently sceptical to doubt the veracity of this story, may
+consult the account of the monks of Kloster Windberg[13], (to which
+Sossau belonged,)printed “cum licentia superiorum,” and illustrated by
+a fresco-painting on the walls of their house at Straubing. The whole
+angelic crew are there to be seen equipped in sailors’ dresses, tugging
+away with “a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull all together,” (the
+last pull, by the way, must have been an extra miracle on the Danube,
+the advantage of such unanimity never entering the heads of the honest
+boatmen), and having on board not only the offended picture, but the
+outraged church itself!--I have heard of a worthy enactor of old
+Capulet, who, by a curious transposition of his prepositions, commanded
+the astonished Juliet to prepare
+
+              To go _to_ Paris _with_ St. Peter’s church.
+
+Now, however extraordinary this paternal injunction might appear
+to a modern heretical London audience, it is obvious, upon due
+consideration, that the speech, being placed in the mouth of a Roman
+Catholic of the sixteenth century, was not so much out of character as
+might be imagined at the moment. The chapel of Loretto and the church
+of Sossau had set a noble example of locomotion, and Saint Peter’s of
+Verona could have no rational reason for refusing to follow it upon a
+proper occasion.
+
+Ainhausen, the property of Count Liebelfing, on the high road to
+Rinkheim and Kagers, an old village from which the Lords of Kagers
+formerly took their title, are the last villages on the right bank of
+the river before you arrive at Straubing, the first town of consequence
+on the Danube after leaving Ratisbon.
+
+
+                        FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER I.)
+
+[3] Etymologists have squabbled as much over the name of the Danube, as
+geographers over its source, which some contend to be near the village
+of St. George, and others in the court-yard of the palace of the Prince
+of Fürstenberg, at Donaueschingen. This mighty flood, the grandest in
+Europe, and the third in consequence in the Old World, was known to the
+Romans by the double name of the Danube, and the Ister. “Ortus hic in
+Germaniæ jugis montes abnobae ex adverso Raurici Galliæ oppidi multis
+ultra alpes millibus, ac per innumeras lapsus gentes Danubii nomine,
+immenso aquarum auctu et unde primum Illyricum alluit Ister appellatus,
+sexaginta amnibus receptis, medio ferme numero eorum navigabili, in
+Pontum vastis sex fluminibus evolvitur.”--‘Plin. Nat. Hist.’ iv. 24.
+The ancient Germans named it Döne and Tona; the Sclavonians, Donava.
+The Hungarians call it Tanara, or Donara, and the Turks, Duna. Its
+modern German appellation is Donau. Some of the earlier writers would
+derive this name from Deus Abnobius, or Diana Abonbia, or Abnopa,
+to whom a temple was dedicated near the source of the river. Others
+deduce it from Thon, clay, and contend it should be written Thonau.
+Others again would find its origin in the words Ton, sound, or Donner,
+thunder; and Reichard, indeed, gives the latter as the received
+derivation. Breuninger, however, proposes Tanne, a fir, and speciously
+enough, the river rising in the Schwarz-wald, of which fir is the
+distinctive character, and its banks being clothed with forests of the
+same tree, along nearly the whole of its course; while Nikolai would
+have us seek it in the Keltic words Do, Na, which signify two rivers,
+and may either apply to its double name, “Binominem Istrum,” or to the
+two sources which dispute the glory of its birth.
+
+[4] Vide ‘Gemeiner’s Reichs-stadt Regenburgische Chronik.’ 4to,
+Regensburg, 1805.
+
+[5] Coxe’s ‘Hist. of the House of Austria,’ 8vo.
+London, 1820, Vol. ii. p. 335.
+
+[6] “History of France,” 8vo. Vol. ii. p. 146.
+
+[7] From a wood-cut in the Nürnberg Chronicle of 1493, it appears,
+however, that the towers were even at that time unfinished; one being
+represented a story shorter than the other, and with a crane upon it
+raising a stone. The author, Hartmann Schedel, in the text of the book,
+describes the edifice as “yet incomplete.”
+
+[8] Vide ‘Ausführliche relation desjenigen wunderthätigen Kampfes,
+welcher anno 930, den 23 Januar, zu Regensburg zwischen Hannss
+Dollinger einem Burger daselbst und einem unglaubigen hunnischen
+Obristen Craco, vorgegangen.’ 4to Regensburg, 1710.
+
+[9] The legend tells us, that the Infernal Architect was sadly worried,
+during his labours, by a cock and a dog. A cock and a bull would have
+figured with more propriety in such a story.
+
+[10] ‘Des Churbayer Atalantis, von A. W. Ertel.’ 8vo. Nurnberg, 1815.
+
+[11] ‘Travels through Germany, etc.’ 4 vols. 4to. London, 1757, vol.
+iv. p. 212. The saint must surely have been like Mrs. Malaprop’s
+Cerberus--“Three gentlemen at once.”
+
+
+[12] Yet I do not find them noticed by Mr. Dibdin, in his curious
+‘Bibliographical Tour.’
+
+[13] Kloster Windberg was originally a castle belonging to the Counts
+of Bogen. Albert of Bogen and Hedwig his wife founded the monastery in
+1145. In the neighbourhood, two hermits are said to have resided, one
+of whom murdered the other.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+  Straubing--The Bridge--The Hauptstrasse--The Stadtthurm--The
+  Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche--Story of Agnes Bernauer--The
+  Ramparts--The Atzelburg--Ober Altaich--Bogenberg--Kloster
+  Metten--The Natternberg--Deggendorf--The Gnade Zeit--Confluence
+  of the Isar and the Danube--Rafts from Munich to Vienna--Nieder
+  Altaich--Hengersberg--Osterhofen--Hoch-winzer--Hofkirchen--Kinzing--
+  Hildegartsberg--Vilshofen--Collegiat Stift--The Sandbach--New Road
+  to Passau--Maximilian Joseph I., late King of Bavaria--Louis I., the
+  present Monarch--Statue of a Lion--Approach to Passau.
+
+
+Straubing is pleasantly situated on the right bank of a small arm of
+the river, or, as it might be called, a canal, through which part of
+the noble stream has, of late years, been conducted to the very walls.
+In front of it, the mountains, which, as I have already mentioned,
+have retreated from the left bank, form a fine amphitheatre, in the
+centre of which, the insulated Bogenberg rises like a pyramid. Like
+most cities of any size and antiquity in Germany, Straubing is divided
+into an Alt-Stadt and a Neu-Stadt. The old town is conjectured by some
+to have been the Serviodurum Augusti of the Romans, the seat of the
+Castra Augustana, etc., and traces of some entrenchments, supposed to
+be Roman, are still to be seen just without the walls. The name of
+“Straubinga” (“Curtis Regia”) first occurs in an instrument, dated A.D.
+902. About forty years afterwards, we hear of the deeds of the noble
+knights of Straubing and Stein. At the latter end of the tenth century,
+Henry III. obtained the surname of Pious, by presenting Straubing to
+his brother Otto, Bishop of Augsburg, who left it to the cathedral and
+chapter of that place. It was governed by an officer called a Vice Dom,
+till the commencement of the thirteenth century, when New Straubing was
+built, and the old town re-annexed to the Duchy of Bavaria. Frederick
+the Handsome, of Austria, besieged and took it in 1319. In 1332, Louis
+the Bavarian lay before the town from the 4th of July till the 24th of
+August, when, provoked by its obstinate resistance, he threw a bridge
+over the Danube, by Kagers, and, making a desperate assault at the
+Spital-gate, succeeded at last in carrying the place by storm. His
+son, Duke William, first husband of Matilda of Lancaster, built the
+castle on the Danube, A.D. 1356. It is now converted into barracks. In
+1393, Straubing was entirely destroyed by fire, and the conflagration
+having begun at a joiner’s, no person of that trade was permitted to
+reside in the city from that time till the year 1540. It was most
+vigorously defended against the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, in 1633. The
+burgomaster, Höller, an excellent marksman, shot upwards of thirty of
+his best officers from the ramparts. In 1635, Straubing was visited by
+a dreadful pestilence. In 1704, it was taken by the Austrians, and, in
+1780, the best half of it fell a second time a prey to the flames. The
+loss was estimated at more than a million of florins.
+
+Straubing in its present state is cheerful and tolerably regular, but
+more like a Dutch than a Bavarian town; the bridge across the Danube
+is pretty, and the gate which terminates it fantastic. On entering the
+Hauptstrasse or High-street, the eye is attracted by a quadrangular
+tower, forming part of the Rath-haus or Guildhall, and much prized by
+the Straubingers, who consider it the most ancient relic in the place;
+but it seems to have been a terrible annoyance to Professor Schultes,
+who neglects no opportunity of expressing his antipathy to it, and
+astonishment that any reverence for its antiquity should prevent the
+removal of a building, which hinders people from looking through the
+town like a telescope. This Stadt-thurm as it is called is two hundred
+feet high, and is now surmounted by a tin spire, with four smaller
+pinnacles at the corners. There are two Latin inscriptions upon it, one
+proclaiming its erection in 1208, and the other its renovation in 1783.
+The largest building in the town is the Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche,
+commenced about 1432, and finished in 1512. In a small chapel in the
+churchyard of St. Peter’s, in the Alt-stadt, is a red marble tablet,
+on which reclines the effigy of a female surrounded by the following
+inscription, “Anno Domini, +MCCCCXXXVI+, +XII+ Die Octobris, Obiit
+Agnes Bernauerin. Requiescat in pace.”
+
+      [Illustration: A marble tablet dedicate to Agnes Bernauer.]
+
+The fate of this unfortunate lady has furnished the subject for a
+tragedy to the Count of Torring Seefeld, and one more deeply affecting
+is scarcely to be found in the page of history.
+
+Albert, the only son of Duke Ernst of Bavaria, was one of the most
+accomplished and valiant princes of the age he lived in. His father
+and family had selected for his bride, the young Countess Elizabeth
+of Würtemberg. The contract was signed and the marriage on the point
+of taking place, when the lady suddenly eloped with a more favoured
+lover, John Count of Werdenberg. The tidings were brought to Albert at
+Augsburg, where he was attending a grand tournament given in honour
+of the approaching nuptials, but they fell unheeded on his ear, as
+his heart, which had not been consulted in the choice of his bride,
+had just yielded itself, “rescue or no rescue,” to the bright eyes of
+a young maiden whom he had distinguished from the crowd of beauties
+that graced the lists. Virtuous as she was lovely, Agnes Bernauer had
+obtained amongst the citizens of Augsburg, the appellation of “the
+angel:” but she was the daughter of a bather, an employment considered
+at that period, in Germany, as particularly dishonourable. Regardless
+of consequences, however, he divulged his passion, and their marriage
+was shortly afterwards privately celebrated in Albert’s castle at
+Vohberg. Their happiness was doomed to be of short duration. Duke
+Ernst became possessed of their secret, and the anger of the whole
+house of Munich burst upon the heads of the devoted couple! Albert was
+commanded to sign a divorce from Agnes, and prepare immediately to
+marry Anna, daughter of Duke Erich of Brunswick. The indignant prince
+refused to obey, and being afterwards denied admission to a tournament
+at Regensburg, on the plea of his having contracted a dishonourable
+alliance, he rode boldly into the lists upon the Heide Platz, before
+the whole company declared Agnes Bernauer his lawful wife and duchess,
+and conducted her to his palace at Straubing, attended as became her
+rank. Every species of malice and misrepresentation was now set at
+work to ruin the unfortunate Agnes. Albert’s uncle, Duke Wilhelm, who
+was the only one of the family inclined to protect her, had a sickly
+child, and she was accused of having administered poison to it. But
+the duke detected the falsehood and became more firmly her friend.
+Death too soon deprived her of this noble protector, and the fate of
+the poor duchess was immediately sealed. Taking advantage of Albert’s
+absence from Straubing, the authorities of the place arrested her on
+some frivolous pretext, and the honest indignation with which she
+asserted her innocence, was tortured into treason by her malignant
+judges. She was condemned to die, and on Wednesday, October 12th, 1436,
+was thrown over the bridge into the Danube, amidst the lamentations of
+the populace[14]. Having succeeded in freeing one foot from the bonds
+which surrounded her, the poor victim, shrieking for help and mercy,
+endeavoured to reach the bank by swimming, and had nearly effected a
+landing, when a barbarian in office, with a hooked pole, caught her by
+her long fair hair, and dragging her back into the stream, kept her
+under water until the cruel tragedy was completed. The fury and despair
+of Albert on receiving these horrid tidings were boundless. He flew to
+his father’s bitterest enemy, Louis the Bearded, at Ingolstadt, and
+returned at the head of an hostile army to his native land, breathing
+vengeance against the murderers of his beloved wife. The old duke,
+sorely pressed by the arms of his injured son, and tormented by the
+stings of conscience, implored the mediation of the Emperor Sigismund,
+who succeeded after some time in pacifying Albert, and reconciling
+him to his father, who, as a proof of his repentance, instituted a
+perpetual mass for the soul of the martyred Agnes Bernauer. Albert
+afterwards married Ann of Brunswick, by whom he had ten children.
+
+The ramparts of this town are now almost entirely demolished, and
+the fosses turned into kitchen-gardens. The former were once planted
+with mulberry-trees, but they were destroyed during the late war,
+when Straubing, though not absolutely stormed or invested, suffered
+considerably from the constant passage of troops, and the skirmishing
+in its neighbourhood. The Straubingers are more celebrated for good
+living than hard work.
+
+                        “On y mange et digére
+                        Compère, compère;
+                        On y fait bonne chere
+                        Voilà tout le mystère!”
+
+is the quotation of Prof. Schultes, and may with great propriety be
+applied to many bodies corporate, of more pretension than the humble
+one of Straubing.
+
+The whole country was lighted up by a glorious sunset as we entered the
+town to satisfy our curiosity and our appetite, and some time before
+we returned from those important occupations, the “twilight grey” had
+“in her sober livery all things clad.” We had determined on passing the
+first night on board, in order to reach Vilshofen by breakfast-time
+the following day, as from that place we understood the scenery would
+become too interesting to admit of haste, or travelling after dark,
+and preparations had been accordingly made by our little crew. The
+sides of the zille were boarded up, and straw and boat-cloaks so
+arranged as to make us a very comfortable couch, upon which we had no
+sooner stretched ourselves than the word was given, and by the light
+of the stars we dropped gently down the river, passing the Atzelburg
+and Hockstetter-hof on the right bank. The former, also called the
+Aciliusburg, is conjectured by some to have been the retreat of the
+Roman Consul Acilius, when exiled for the _crime_ of Christianity, and
+originally named from him Acilia Augusta. In its neighbourhood are some
+entrenchments believed to be Roman. Reibersdorf, Kleinau, and Ebling
+are villages on the right bank. Near the latter the small stream of the
+Aitrach joins the Danube. On the left is Lenach, remarkable only as
+having been purchased by the monks of Altaich in 1139, for ninety-five
+Pf. Pfennige, about five shillings, English.
+
+Notwithstanding the precautions we had taken, I was too cold as
+well as too curious to sleep; and as the moon got up so did I, and,
+seating myself by the cabin door, looked on the gradually brightening
+landscape, and listened to the songs of the boatmen who, as they lazily
+plied their unwieldy paddles, warbled in their own peculiar style--a
+style rendered familiar to London ears, by the interesting “Rainer
+family,” for it is not confined to the Tyrol--several wild but pleasing
+melodies. It is very provoking that the English should be, perhaps,
+the only people who have no idea of singing in parts; an untutored
+boatman, peasant, or soldier of almost any of the continental nations
+will suddenly strike in with an extemporary and very creditable bass,
+though the air be led off by an utter stranger to him. On the banks
+of the Main at Aschaffenburg, and at Möhdling in the Wienerwald, I
+was particularly struck with this pleasing talent, and have noticed
+it repeatedly both in France and Switzerland. The complaint that the
+English are not a musical nation is in my opinion better borne out
+by this circumstance, than by the alleged deficiency of celebrated
+composers, or the want of taste in the mixed audiences of our Concert
+Rooms and Theatres. There is certainly no comparison between “the
+native wood-notes wild” of a Devonshire ploughman, and those of a
+Bavarian bauer.
+
+We soon came in sight of Ober-Altaich, a celebrated Benedictine
+kloster. A Druidical altar is said to have been destroyed here by
+the holy Parminius, who, with his own hand, cut down the oak under
+which it stood, and caused a chapel to be erected upon the spot. The
+convent was founded by Duke Uttilo II. A.D. 731, who brought thither
+twelve Benedictine monks and an abbot from Reichenau, in the Lake of
+Constance. The Hungarians destroyed it in 907, and it was a ruin for
+nearly two hundred years, when Count Frederick of Bogen rebuilt it,
+and, with his wife and sons, so liberally endowed and patronised it,
+that in the thirteenth century there were no less than one hundred and
+eighteen monks here, most of them of noble birth; and the dignity of
+prince was granted to its abbots by Louis the Brandenburgher. In 1634,
+Ober-Altaich was burnt by the Swedes, but shortly afterwards rose from
+its ashes, more magnificent than ever,--a circumstance, says Schultes,
+not at all surprising when you consider that, in spite of their vow
+of poverty, the holy brotherhood enjoyed an annual income of thirty
+thousand florins (between four and five thousand pounds sterling,) an
+immense sum for this part of Germany, where a florin in the hands of a
+native will go nearly as far as a pound in England. Passing the mouth
+of the little Kinzach, and the villages of Saut and Hundersdorf, we
+at length approached the long-seen Bogenberg. Upon its summit lie the
+last crumbling relics of an old fortress, the Stammschloss[15] of the
+once-dreaded Counts of Bogen. Germany in the times they flourished was,
+as the Legate Cupanus described it in his letters to Rome--a den of
+thieves. The deplorable state into which the whole empire was plunged
+by the quarrels between the popes and the house of Swabia, the almost
+total annihilation of the imperial power by the death of Conrad IV.,
+and the interregnum that followed the death of Richard King of the
+Romans, in 1271, is vividly described by contemporary writers, one of
+whom, in the language of scripture, exclaims, “In those days there
+was no king in Israel, and every one did that which was right in his
+own eyes.” “The earth (says another) mourned and languished, Mount
+Lebanon was shaken from its foundations, and the moon was turned into
+blood[16].” The terms noble and robber were synonymous, and the higher
+the rank the more lawless and rapacious were the deeds of the titled
+ruffian. The castle of Bogen was admirably adapted for a bandit’s hold.
+Seated upon the apex of a pyramidical rock, inaccessible but by one
+narrow pass on its eastern side, which a handful of determined men
+might keep against a host, and commanding a view over nearly half the
+dukedom of Bavaria, its lawless lord watched from its battlements, like
+a vulture, the approach of his unsuspecting prey, and, pouncing upon
+it, bore it up in triumph to his mountain eyrie, where he feasted at
+his leisure in security. The domains of the Counts of Bogen extended
+from Regensburg to the Ilz, and from the shores of the Danube far into
+Bohemia. Their friendship and alliance were sought by King and Kaiser,
+by the Dukes of Bavaria, and the Markgraves of Austria; and their feuds
+with the Counts of Ortenburg deluged the land repeatedly with blood.
+But bigotry and superstition lost them what rapine and murder had won.
+Their revenues filled the coffers of greedy abbots, and their castles
+were gradually transformed into convents. An image of the Virgin was
+one day seen floating upon the Danube, and drifting ashore near the
+little market-town of Bogen, which lies at the foot of the mountain, on
+its western side, rested on a stone on the bank. Count Answin, struck
+with so _miraculous_ an occurrence, presented the castle of Bogen to
+the kloster of Ober Altaich, which his brother Frederick had founded.
+Forty years afterwards, Count Albert I. of Bogen was wheedled out of
+the castle of Windberg by another holy fraternity; and about the middle
+of the thirteenth century the family became extinct, by the death of
+Count Albert IV., who had followed the unfortunate Emperor, Frederick
+II., to the Holy Land. Ludmilla, the mother of this last Count of
+Bogen, was a Bohemian Princess; and, on the death of her husband,
+Albert III., Louis II., Duke of Bavaria, becoming enamoured of her
+from report, offered her marriage, provided, says the chronicle, he
+should like her upon a personal acquaintance. Ludmilla consented to
+this proposition, and the duke visited her accordingly. Suspecting,
+however, the sincerity of his protestations, she one day requested
+him, as in a joke, to plight his troth to her in a tapestried chamber,
+and to consider the figures of three knights, worked in the hangings,
+as witnesses of the contract. The duke, to humour this apparently
+childish fancy, smilingly held up his hand, and took the oath required
+of him, when, to his utter astonishment, three living knights, “good
+men and true,” stepped out from behind the tapestry, where they had
+been purposely concealed by the cunning Bohemian, and compelled the
+ensnared potentate to ratify his pledge[17]. The church of our Lady
+of Bogen, erected in honour of the miraculous image before-mentioned,
+stands beside the ruins of the castle, and from six to eight thousand
+pilgrims have been known at one time to congregate about its far-famed
+shrine. It has been several times injured by lightning, and its roof
+carried away by the high winds, a natural consequence of its exposed
+situation. A thunderstorm burst over it on Whit-Tuesday, A.D. 1618,
+during one of these meetings, and the lightning having fired the
+steeple, such confusion ensued, that fourteen persons were crushed
+to death[18]. The Bogenberg and its vicinity have been fertile in
+miracles. A ridiculous story is told by Æmilius Hemmauer, a prior of
+Ober-Altaich, about a moving altar, and in the little market-town is
+shown a tooth of St. Sebastian, over which water is poured into a
+goblet; and it is gravely asserted that whoever drinks of this water,
+need fear no infectious disorder for twelve months to come. The little
+rivers Bogen and Menach join the Danube near this spot, and on the
+opposite shore are the villages of Absam and Hermansdorf.
+
+As the Danube approaches its confluence with the Isar, its banks become
+bolder and more interesting; a crowd of villages present themselves,
+amongst which the most important are Pfelling, whence a considerable
+quantity of wood is sent to Vienna; Irlbach, the principal depôt
+for the corn of the Dunkelboden, before the Danube washed the walls
+of Straubing; and Wischelburgh, on the site of the Roman Bisonium,
+destroyed by the tremendous Attila.
+
+Kloster-Metten, on the left bank, according to the legend, owes its
+foundation to the following circumstances: A herdsman of Michaelbuch,
+named Gamelbert, awaking from a deep sleep, in which he had been
+indulging beneath a tree, found, to his surprise, a book lying upon his
+breast. On examination he found it was written in English, and, though
+he knew just as much of the language as the beasts that were grazing
+before him, he immediately commenced reading it, and was so edified by
+its contents, that he abandoned his flocks and herds, and, repairing to
+Rome, became a Christian priest. On his way thither he baptised a boy,
+whom he named Utto, and desired his parents to send the lad to him when
+he became a man; they did so, and Gamelbert made over to him the care
+of the souls of the worthy inhabitants of Michaelbuch. Utto, however,
+had no great affection for his new calling, and leaving the poor souls
+to take care of themselves, crossed the Danube, and wandered into the
+Waldes, where he built a hermitage, in honour of the Archangel Michael,
+near a spring, which is still called Utto’s Spring, and amused himself
+with sundry curious pranks, amongst which was the rather difficult
+one of hanging his axe upon a sunbeam! Charlemagne, hunting in the
+neighbourhood, caught the holy hermit in the fact, and, astonished, as
+well he might be, by so extraordinary a performance, promised to grant
+him any boon he might be pleased to ask. Utto requested that a convent
+might be built on the spot, and Kloster-Metten was erected at the
+command of Charlemagne.
+
+On the opposite side to Kloster-Metten, suddenly rises the remarkable
+Natternberg the only rock on the right bank from Prufening to
+Pleinting, a distance of upwards of eighty English miles. It is nearly
+three hundred feet high; and on its summit are the ruins of another
+castle, which belonged to the Counts of Bogen, who made it their
+residence in 1232. The curious appearance of this mass of granite,
+standing in solitary majesty upon this extensive plain, and cut off,
+as it were, from its giant brethren of the Böhmer-Wald by the bright
+and trenchant Danube, has given rise to many speculations amongst
+the geologists of Germany; but while the learned are at loggerheads
+respecting this natural phenomenon, the honest people who reside
+in its neighbourhood, and who, therefore, surely have a right to a
+voice on the subject, have settled the question completely to their
+own satisfaction. The Devil, say they, hating the Deggendorfers, for
+their piety, determined to destroy them outright; and, with that
+intention, brought a rock from Italy, (none in the neighbourhood, I
+presume, being suitable to his purpose,) with the malicious intention
+of hurling it upon the devoted town of Deggendorf, and crushing
+it, with all its inhabitants, into the Danube. Passing opposite to
+Kloster-Metten, “half flying, half on foot,” with this formidable
+missile under his arm, the bells of the convent rang for the Ave
+Maria! The virtue of the holy sounds was immediately felt by the arch
+apostate. “Gnashing for anguish, and despite, and shame,” he dropped
+the mountain “like a hot potatoe,” and there, where it fell, it stands
+to this day; an immutable proof of the power of bell-ringing, and a
+monument of the piety and narrow escape of the Deggendorfers. In the
+castle, on its crest, Duke Albert of Austria besieged his faithless
+favourite Peter Ecker, A.D. 1347; and Henry of Landshut was educated
+within its walls, from which circumstance he obtained the additional
+sirname of the Natternberger. The castle was reduced to its present
+ruinous state by the Swedes, and now belongs to a Count of Preising.
+From the little place, called Fischerdorf, at the foot of the mountain,
+the town of Deggendorf is seen lying in a beautiful valley, surrounded
+by hills that rise in circles, each above the other, and having in
+front the Danube; here broader than in any other part of Bavaria,
+(nearly one thousand two hundred feet,) across which is a wooden
+bridge, supported by twenty-six piers, but built so slightly, in order
+that it may be easily removed to give an annual passage to the ice,
+that Schultes says, it shakes under the curvetting of a single horse.
+Of the ancient history of Deggendorf very little is known, its records
+having been all destroyed; some by the Swedes, under Bernhard von
+Weimar, and the rest by fire, in 1638.
+
+Pilgrims, from all parts of Germany, flock to Deggendorf upon Saint
+Michael’s eve, which is a celebrated Gnade-zeit, (time of grace,) when
+absolution is granted to all comers, in consequence of some miraculous
+circumstances that, in the year 1337, attended the purloining and
+insulting of the Host by a woman and some Jews; who, having bought the
+consecrated wafer from her, scratched it with thorns till it bled, and
+the image of a child appeared; baked it, vision and all, in an oven;
+hammered it upon an anvil, the block of which is still shown to the
+pilgrim; attempted to cram it down “their accursed throats,” (I quote
+the words of the original description,) but were prevented by the hands
+and feet of the vision aforesaid; and finally, despairing to destroy
+it, flung it into a well, which was immediately surrounded by a nimbus,
+etc. I should not have noticed these disgusting falsehoods, but for
+the melancholy fact, that the circulation of this trumpery story was
+considered a sufficient cause, by the _pious_ Deggendorfers, for the
+indiscriminate massacre of all the wretched Jews in the place; which
+infamous and bloody deed was perpetrated the day after St. Michael,
+sanctioned by _Christian_ priests, who, in grand procession, carried
+back the indestructible wafer to the church, and solemnly approved,
+in 1489, by Pope Innocent VIII., who issued his bull for the general
+absolution abovementioned[19]. Above fifty thousand pilgrims assembled
+here in 1801; and as late as 1815, so considerable were their numbers,
+that the greater part of them passed the night in the streets of the
+town, and in the fields in its neighbourhood.
+
+The moon had set before we passed Deggendorf, but the night was light
+enough to see the “Isar rolling rapidly,” through its many mouths, to
+join the mighty Danube; and the spire of Plattling in the distance, a
+tolerably sized market-town, where there is a bridge across the former
+river, and the post-house, between Straubing and Vilshofen. Below
+this bridge, the raft-masters of Munich, who leave that city every
+Monday for Vienna, unite their rafts before they enter the Danube. They
+descend the Isar upon single rafts only; but upon reaching this point
+they lash them together in pairs, and in fleets of three, four, or six
+pairs, they set out for Vienna. A voyage is made pleasantly enough
+upon these floating islands, as they have all the agrémens without the
+confinement of a boat. A very respectable promenade can be made from
+one end to the other, and two or three huts erected upon them afford
+shelter in bad weather and repose at night.
+
+Isargemünd, situated in one of the many islands, at the confluence of
+the rivers, is the only village on your right till you reach Thundorf,
+where there is a ferry over to Nieder Altaich; on the left are the
+Halbe-meile-kirche, and two or three small hamlets.
+
+Nieder Altaich, another Benedictine convent[20], and, at one time, the
+most important that the order possessed in Bavaria; its annual income
+being not less than one hundred thousand florins; stands at the foot of
+the frowning Böhmer-wald, which here again bends its bushy brows upon
+the bright river. Saint Parminius is said to have acted the same scene
+here which has already been described in the notice of Ober Altaich.
+And Uttilo II., not contented with having founded that kloster, brought
+hither an equal number of monks from the same monastery of Reichenau,
+and established them in a like manner. Its abbot soon became the
+richest in Bavaria; but the Hungarians, in the tenth century, ravaged
+the country with fire and sword, and Nieder Altaich suffered the fate
+of its prototype. In 990, however, it was rebuilt, and still more
+richly endowed by the Emperor Otto, and Henry Duke of Bavaria. Saint
+Gotthard came barefooted from Reichersdorf, where he was born in 965,
+of humble parents, and from a monk became abbot, and lastly, bishop
+of Hildesheim, where he died, A.D. 1035. The monks of Nieder Altaich,
+it appears, gradually forgot the pious lessons and fair example of
+Saint Gotthard; which, during his life, had materially improved the
+reputation of the community; for in 1282, we find them making a riddle
+of their abbot with arrows, from an ambush on the river side, as he
+is crossing the ferry to Thundorf[21]. The abbots, themselves, also,
+were many of them unworthy successors of that holy man. One of the last
+superiors of this kloster, for instance, by name Augustin Ziegler, not
+contented with expending annually upwards of ninety thousand florins,
+ran the fraternity into a debt of nearly one hundred thousand before he
+was _invited_ to retire from the cares of office, and live in peace at
+Straubing, upon a slender annuity. In the “Topographischen Lexicon von
+Baiern,” 2s., 508., is the following account of this worthy prelate,
+who seems to have formed a very tolerable idea of the “otium cum
+dignitate,” which should bless an abbot of Benedictines. “Besides his
+valet he had two pages. On his name-day all the principal persons of
+the government of Straubing assembled in the grand refectory of Nieder
+Altaich. A band of trumpets and kettle-drums was in attendance, from
+daybreak, facing his chamber window, and the moment his Excellency (for
+he had purchased the title of a privy councillor) opened his eyes, the
+pages undrew the curtains of cloth of gold, amidst a flourish from the
+trumpets and kettle-drums without, while a battery of small mortars
+proclaimed in thunder to the surrounding country, the dawning of the
+name-day of this important personage.” His conduct, however, soon
+became so notorious that he was compelled to resign, and retire upon
+an annual allowance of two hundred ducats and ten eimers of wine. Ten
+times has this kloster been burned down, and rebuilt each time more
+magnificently; till at last, if we may believe Lackner’s account, the
+very oxen of the community eat out of marble mangers--“pecora fecit in
+marmore pabulari!”
+
+A little beyond Nieder Altaich, upon the same bank, is the town of
+Hengersberg, with its old castle, given, in 1212, by Altnann von
+Helingersberg to Saint Mauritius, then abbot of that kloster. The
+Danube formerly flowed over part of the bank, and, what is now the
+lazzar-house, was, at that time, the river toll-house. At Hengersberg,
+the Danube again turns from the Bohemian mountains, as wearied with
+its unavailing efforts to penetrate the giant line; but the gentle
+eminences which still skirt its left bank are enough to preserve its
+superiority to that of the right, which, all the way from Ratisbon,
+with the solitary exception of the Natternberg, had not presented
+one hillock to break the long, low line of shore, more in keeping
+with the sluggish stream of a Dutch canal, than with the rapid waves
+of the “boiling Danube,” an epithet, by the bye, more descriptive
+than any other of its singular current, which, whether running fast
+or slowly, keeps up a constant whirling, eddying, and bubbling,
+accompanied by a low hissing sound which (pardon, gentle reader, the
+humble comparison) reminded our English ears of nothing so much as the
+singing of a tea-kettle. After passing a handful of villages, whose
+almost unpronounceable names shall be presented hereafter, in their due
+order, to the curious in consonants, we glided by Osterhofen, a little
+town on the side of a small hill, a short distance from the shore. It
+is one of the oldest towns in Bavaria, and was the site of the Castra
+Petrensia. The Avars, who desolated the banks of the Danube during the
+sixth, seventh, and eighth centuries, here suffered a serious defeat;
+and the victory having been gained on an Easter Sunday, the town took
+the name of _Oster_-hofen, and still bears in its arms a Paschal lamb.
+In the meadow where the battle was fought, and named from that event,
+“Oster-wiese,” stood Kloster Oster-hofen, erected in honour of, and
+gratitude for, the defeat of the barbarians. Hither Uttilo II. brought
+some more of his friends, the Benedictines; but the barbarians returned
+in 765, thirsting for vengeance, and gratified it by razing the
+Kloster to the ground. It was rebuilt, but the rest of its history is
+neither clear nor interesting. The indefatigable Uttilo is supposed to
+have been buried here, where also lie, according to report, which may
+be said to _lie_ also, nine of the eleven thousand virgins who suffered
+martyrdom with Saint Ursula at Cologne.
+
+Below Osterhofen, on the left, are the picturesque ruins of the Castle
+of Hoch-Winzer, or Ober-Winzer, over the little town of the same name.
+Both town and castle received this appellation from the considerable
+vineyards which flourished here; but who the Lords of Winzer were,
+or what feats they achieved, Schultes says he has not been able to
+discover: all that is known about them is, that they lie buried at
+Osterhofen. The Pandours reduced the castle to its present ruinous
+condition in 1741[22]. Flinschbach, built, in 1230, by the Counts of
+Bogen, and three or four other villages of still less note, on each
+side of the river, enliven the scene, till the ruins of the Castle
+of Hofkirchen rise on the left bank; in the fourteenth century, the
+residence of the powerful Counts of Ortenburg, the sworn enemies of the
+Counts of Bogen, and the terror of all navigators of the Danube. What,
+with barefaced plundering, and the exercise of a self-erected right,
+called “grundruhr,” which literally signifies grounding, scarcely
+a vessel escaped the clutches of these robber lords. This right of
+grundruhr entitled them to take possession of every vessel, with its
+crew and cargo, that grounded upon any bank, shoal, or island, within
+their domain. If it but grated on the sand, or brushed the shore, it
+was immediately pronounced “grundrürhrig” by the armed vassals of
+the noble bandit, who were continually on the watch, and who made no
+scruple of chasing the unfortunate schiffers till they drove them
+aground, and then coolly laid _legal_ claim to their property.
+
+Nearly opposite Winzer is Kinzing, or Kinzen, the Castra Quintana, or
+Augusta Quintanorum Colonia of the Romans, upon a small height, from
+whence a little brook leaps into the Danube. Several miracles are
+related of Saint Severinus, who resided here during the fifth century,
+how he saved the place from inundation, by planting a cross on the
+river’s bank; how he brought his dead friend Sylvin to life again, in
+the wooden church that stood outside the walls, and how Sylvin took it
+in exceeding ill part, and insisted on dying again immediately. “I beg
+of thee, I conjure thee,” exclaimed the indignant Sylvin, “not to rouse
+me from the rest which God has appointed for me! Why hast thou awakened
+me? Why hast thou brought me back into a world, into which I never
+more wish to return?” The Saint, I suspect, looked uncommonly silly on
+receiving this unexpected rap on the knuckles: his apology, if one he
+made, has not come down to us. The _fact_ is related on the authority
+of a young peasant girl, who hid herself in the church, on purpose to
+witness the miracle which she suspected was about to be performed; and
+it would be the height of impertinence, under such circumstances, to
+inquire into particulars.
+
+By the time we had reached Kinzing,
+
+  “Morn, her rosy steps in th’ orient clime,
+   Advancing, sowed the earth with eastern pearl;”
+
+And as we made the point which brought us in view of the fine old ruin
+of Hildegartsberg, the sun rising immediately behind it shot his
+glorious rays, like golden arrows; through the loop-holes and windows
+of its bare and blackened walls, that frowned still darker from the
+blaze of light behind them. It was a scene in which the spirit of that
+daring artist, Turner, would have revelled. My companion, who had given
+me tolerable proofs during our passage from London to Ostend; that he
+could “sleep in spite of thunder,” was awakened by my raptures; and we
+stood, at the head of the boat, gazing at the beautiful picture, and
+basking in the welcome beams of “the great lamp by which the world is
+blest,” till the river, suddenly taking a new direction, brought us
+again into the shadow of the left bank, and showed us Vilshofen, with
+its long light bridge and pretty gardens laughing in the sunshine, at
+the farther extremity of the valley we had now entered. Little appears
+to be known about Hildegartsberg further than that it was like so many
+other castles on the Rhine, the Danube, etc., the hold of some robber
+knight, noble, or priest, of the middle ages, and destroyed by Duke
+Albert of Austria, in 1346.
+
+That most delightful of all chroniclers, Froissart, who commenced
+his interesting annals shortly after this period, gives a lamentable
+account of the brutality and avarice of the nobility and clergy of
+Germany. “When a German hath taken a prisoner,” (says he,) “he putteth
+him into irons, and into hard prison, without any pity, to make him pay
+the greater finance and ransom.”[23] Again, “They are a covetous people
+above all other. They have no pity if they have the upper hand, and
+they demean themselves with cruelty to their prisoners. They put them
+to sundry pains, to compel them to make their ransoms greater; and, if
+they have a lord or a great man for their captive, they make great joy
+thereof, and will convey him into Bohemia, Austria, or Saxony, and keep
+him in some uninhabitable castle. They are people worse than Saracens
+or Paynims; for their excessive covetousness quencheth the knowledge of
+honour;”[24] and Schmidt[25] tells us, that an archbishop thought he had
+a fair revenue before him, when he built his fortress on the junction
+of four “roads.”
+
+Nearly facing Hildegartsberg is Pleinting, a small market-town, at
+which the plain stretching from the gates of Regensburg, along the
+right bank of the Danube, at last terminates, and the beauty of the
+river really commences. The road from Straubing runs beside it, upon
+a sort of terrace, and the sight of a post-chariot whirling along,
+recalled our wandering thoughts from the dark but interesting ages
+into which the contemplation of ruined tower and cloister grey had led
+them, to the less romantic, but, in our situation, equally interesting
+prospect, of a good inn and a capital breakfast. Alas! it seemed as
+if neither were to be found in Vilshofen, or, at least, that it was
+decreed we should not meet with them. Gilt lions, red stags, white
+horses, and blue bulls; apples and orange trees, as a herald would say,
+“proper;” crowns and coronets, and heads every way worthy of them;
+suns, moons, and stars, “yea, the great globe itself,” swung to and
+fro in the morning breeze, in every direction, and in endless variety;
+but in vain, from spot to spot, “with courteous action, they waved us
+to a more removed ground.” The exteriors of these caravanserais alone
+were promising. If “houses of entertainment” they were, that quality
+seemed entirely restricted to the outside. Their newly white-washed
+walls, and neatly painted green doors and shutters, surmounted by one
+of the glittering ensigns aforesaid, but served to make the dark gulf
+of the long, low-roofed, rambling, unfurnished, smoky speise-saal,
+appear more dreary, dirty, and uncomfortable; and it was some time
+before even hunger, that least ceremonious of all sensations, could
+induce us to make the plunge. Having at last screwed up our courage
+to the sticking-place, we rushed into--the Moon, I believe; made the
+hostess stare, by drinking four or five “portions” of coffee, which
+turned out better than we expected, and ate a most respectable quantum
+of tolerable “butter brod” and half a dozen eggs; for the whole of
+which we paid twenty kreutzers (about sixpence English) each, being
+then charged at least double what would have been demanded of their own
+countrymen.
+
+Vilshofen was the Villa Quintanica of the Romans, and is situated
+at the confluence of the river Vils with the Danube. Rapoto, Count
+of Ortenburg, fortified it in the eleventh century; and its history
+from that period is little more than an unbroken narrative of takings
+and retakings, plunderings and burnings, down to the end of the last
+war. Its principal trade is in beer; for a particular sort of which
+beverage it has been long celebrated: and its principal building
+is an ecclesiastical establishment, for which I cannot find an
+English name to my liking, that owes its foundation to the following
+circumstance:--Heinrich Tuschl, knight of Saldenau, upon ocular proof
+of his wife’s infidelity, condemned the miserable woman to be walled up
+alive, abjured the company, and shunned the sight of females, and left
+the greater part of his property in 1376 to found this establishment.
+Upon the charter was written:
+
+                      “2 Hund an ain Bain;
+                       Ich Tuschl bleib allain.”
+
+                      “Two dogs to one bone;
+                       I Tuschl bide alone.”[26]
+
+Having re-embarked and passed under the wooden bridge, on the centre
+of which is a crucifix, we passed by Hacheldorf, which forms a kind
+of suburb to Vilshofen, and the market town of Windorf, famous for
+boat-building. Near Hansbach the little Wolfach falls into the Danube;
+and below this spot the river boils over numberless sunken rocks,
+many of which show their white heads above the water, studding the
+stream in all directions. Shortly afterwards the river narrows, and a
+slight fall, or what our sailors call a race, ensues. The watermen,
+who magnify the little difficulties of this navigation into the most
+astounding dangers, call this “das gefürchtete Sandbach!” The cottages
+on the banks now assumed a Swiss appearance, being all of wood, with
+galleries across their gables, and far-projecting roofs. A slight
+change was also perceivable in the costume of the women; the little
+black silk cap, with its long ribbon streamers, had given place to a
+dark-coloured cotton handkerchief, bound closely round the head, and
+tied in a knot behind, the ends hanging down. The impetus given to the
+current by the little fall now carried us merrily along, to the great
+delight of our lazy boatmen, who made it a point of conscience not to
+wag a finger when they could possibly avoid it, past Gaishofen, where
+a small stream called the Gaisach joins the Danube, and Heining on the
+right bank, and Dobelstein (formerly called Engelberg) on the left.
+For a new road cut through the rocks on the very brink of the river,
+by which nearly six English miles are saved in posting to Passau,
+Bavaria and its visiters are indebted to Maximilian-Joseph, the father
+of the present monarch, Louis I. who, treading in the footsteps of his
+excellent sire, inherits not only his crown but the affection of his
+people; and by his unbounded kindness and liberality to the professors
+of the fine arts, has obtained throughout the continent the honourable
+addition to his style, of “the King of the Learned.” In the tour, of
+which this descent of the Danube formed a part, I travelled nearly all
+over Bavaria, and had the gratification of hearing the praises of its
+king from all lips and in all places; not the mere mouth-homage which
+betrays itself by the cold precision of the language in which it is
+couched, but the ebullition of feeling rushing pure from the heart,
+and leaping the barriers of ceremony in its honest ardour. “Our king
+is a good fellow,” is the homely but expressive phrase in which his
+character is invariably summed up by all who speak of him. Shortly
+after he came to the throne, he disbanded an expensive body-guard, and
+on being questioned as to the policy of the act, he replied, “We are at
+peace; why should I burden my people with an unnecessary expense? as
+for myself, I want no regiment to protect me, my fellow-citizens are my
+body-guard.” In a very handsome new street erecting in Munich by his
+order, there is an unseemly gap occasioned by an antique isolated house
+standing edgeways in the centre of the modern buildings. On expressing
+our surprise that it was allowed to remain there, we were told that it
+belonged to an old general, who had resisted every proposal for its
+demolition, and it having been suggested to the king to compel him, his
+answer was, “No, no, let him have his way; he is an old man, and has
+perchance but a few years to live; I will not abridge their number by
+annoying him.” His majesty frequently takes a country walk alone, or
+with but one attendant, and, dressed like a farmer, chats freely and
+jocularly with the peasantry; never leaving them, however, without some
+mark of his bounty.
+
+I cannot be expected to vouch for the truth of these anecdotes as
+far as regards their details or the exact expressions used, but they
+are amongst the many in general circulation; and an excellent modern
+tourist has justly remarked, that “an anecdote in general circulation,
+even though not strictly true in point of fact, will commonly be
+accordant to the character of the person of whom it is related, and
+will thus be a correct, though perhaps a fictitious illustration of his
+mode of acting.” The person of Louis is worthy his noble character;
+intelligence and spirit are visible in every line of his countenance;
+a high forehead, large and deeply-set dark eyes, to which a profusion
+of black hair, pushed carelessly off the temples, and dark upturned
+mustachios, would give something like an expression of fierceness,
+were it not for the benignant smile which plays about his mouth
+when addressing you. His queen, too, is renowned for her beauty and
+affability; and, in short, a more handsome and deservedly popular pair
+never graced a continental throne.
+
+But to return to the Danube, from whence I have wandered to pay my
+humble tribute of praise to one of the best of monarchs. By the side
+of the new road before mentioned is the statue of a lion-couchant
+upon a pedestal, and placed upon a jutting rock, with an inscription
+beneath it stating the chaussée to have been made by command of
+Maximilian-Joseph I., King of Bavaria. In a few minutes after you have
+passed this monument, the towers of the church of Maria-hilf appear
+above the hills, and shortly afterwards the cathedral of Passau, and
+the old fort of Oberhaus on the opposite height, are seen rising over
+the foliage of an island in the centre of the river. The approach to
+the city between the island and the left bank is most beautiful; and
+whoever is acquainted with the scenery of the Rhine will immediately
+acknowledge, that it has not improperly obtained the appellation of
+“the Coblentz of the Danube.”
+
+
+                        FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER II)
+
+[14] Professor Schultes says, the date on the tombstone is incorrect,
+and that it should be October 12th, 1435, as Albert married again 1436.
+The bridge from which she was precipitated, was that which crossed the
+old arm of the Danube, and no longer exists. The present bridge passes
+over the new branch of the river, that washes the town and connects
+its northern side with the Island called the Donauwiese, in which the
+famous Sossau fair, which began on the Sunday after Michaelmas, and
+lasted eight days, was formerly held.
+
+[15] The original castle of a particular family--the cradle of the
+race. _Schloss_ is, however, a most convenient word, as it not only
+stands for a castle or a palace, but for those buildings which are both
+or neither. The _chateaux_ of France, and the _seats_ or _mansions_ of
+England.
+
+[16] The Archbishop of Cologne, in a Letter to the Pope.
+
+[17] Henry Döring has a ballad on this subject, entitled, “Die Zeugen,”
+(the Witnesses.) Vide ‘Ruinen oder Taschenbüch zür Geschicte verfalener
+Ritterburgen und Schlosser, etc. Wien, 1826. 1 Sammlung.’ One might be
+pardoned for supposing the proverb of “Walls have ears,” to have arisen
+from this adventure.
+
+[18]
+   “Tausend sechs hundert zehn und acht,
+   Am dritten Pfingstag, nach Mittnacht.
+   Schlug das Wildfeur oben ein,
+   Lief aus dem Thurm in d’kirch hinein;
+   Die kirch gesteckt voll Kirchfarther war
+   Der brennets viel: zwey sturben gar.
+   In diesem Schreken, Strauss, und Brauss
+   Drang alle welt zur Kirchen auss;
+   Der gross Gewalt erdruckt ohnverschon
+   Vier manns und zehen weibsperson
+   Da liegn ihr in zwey Grabern todt
+   Drey Mann, sibn Weiber: tröst sie Gott.”
+                  ‘Hemmauer,’ a. a. O. 357.
+
+[19] The whole of these circumstances, from the stealing of the Host
+to the granting of the Bull, are represented in paintings on the walls
+of the church. Nearly the same story is told at Bruxelles of three
+miraculous wafers, which were stolen and stabbed by Jews, in 1369; and
+for which imputed crime, several of that persecuted people were burnt
+alive, by order of Duke Wenceslaus. The author of ‘Les Délices des
+Pays Bas’ tells us, that, “Les hosties et les marques durent encore
+aujourd’hui, et ne souffrent pas qu’on les approche _sans je me sçai
+quelle horreur toute sainte_. On les garde pour un gage particulier de
+la protection divine envers la ville de Brusselles.” Vol. i. p. 121.
+It appears that the Deggendorfers owed the Jews a considerable sum of
+money; it is, therefore, most probable that the story was got up to
+enable them, as the debt grew troublesome, to wash it out in blood.
+Vide ‘Das obsiegende Glaubenswunder des ganzen Christl. Churlandes
+Baiern willsagen _unlaugbarer_ Bericht, etc.’ 8vo. Deggendorf, 1814.
+
+[20] “So soon another,” says Schultes, “I think I hear the traveller
+and the reader exclaim, who may not be acquainted with the magnitude
+of this order.” And then he proceeds to give, from Hemmauer, the
+following list of popes, priests, emperors, kings, etc. who had, up to
+that time, embraced the Order of Saint Benedict: viz. “Sixty-three
+popes, two hundred and twenty-three cardinals, two hundred and
+fifty-five patriarchs, sixteen thousand archbishops, forty-six thousand
+bishops, twenty-one emperors, twenty-five empresses, forty-eight
+kings, fifty-four queens, one hundred and forty-six imperial and royal
+children, and four hundred and forty-five sovereign princes and dukes!”
+Donaufahrten, tom. i. 8. 374. note.
+
+[21] Memoriale, seu Altachiæ inferioris memoria superstes, ex tabulis,
+annalibus, diplomatis, etc. 6. Joan. Bapt. Lackner etc. Fol. Passavii,
+1779.
+
+[22] Schultes says, in 1740; but this must be a mistake, as Maria
+Theresa was not crowned Queen of Hungary till the 25th of June, 1741;
+and it was after that ceremony that, clad in deep mourning, with the
+crown of St. Stephen on her head, and the scimitar at her side, she
+made the affecting address to the Diet, which, rousing the whole
+nation, brought its numerous tribes from the banks of the Save, the
+Drave, the Teiss and the Danube, to the royal standard. These troops,
+under the names of Croats, Pandours, Sclavonians, Warasdinians, and
+Tolpaches, exhibited a new and astonishing spectacle to the eyes of
+Europe. By their dress and arms, by the ferocity of their manners, and
+their singular mode of combat, they struck terror into the disciplined
+armies of Germany and France. Vide Coxe’s ‘History of the House of
+Austria,’ 8vo. vol. iv. p. 442.--Baron Riesbeck, who also dates the
+circumstance 1740, says, “When the Hungarian nobility took the field
+for their _king_ Maria Theresa, the first sight of such troops struck
+the French army with a panic. They had, indeed, often seen detachments
+of these ‘_Diables d’Hongrie_,’ as they used to call them; but a
+whole army, drawn up in battle array, unpowdered from the general to
+the common soldier, half their faces covered with long whiskers, a
+sort of round beaver on their heads instead of hats, without ruffles
+or frills to their shirts, and without feathers, all clad in rough
+skins, monstrous crooked sabres, ready drawn and uplifted, their eyes
+darting flashes of rage sharper than the beams of their naked sabres,
+was a sight our men had not been accustomed to see.” (It must be
+remembered that Riesbeck, though a German, writes in the character
+of a Frenchman.) “Our oldest officers still remember the impression
+these terrible troops made, and how difficult it was to make the men
+stand against them, till they had been accustomed to their formidable
+appearance.” Pinkerton’s Collect. vol. vi. p. 112.
+
+[23] Liv. i. ch. 433.
+
+[24] Liv. ii. ch. 125.
+
+[25] Geschichte der Deutschen.
+
+[26] The canons or prebends of this establishment have the
+word “allain,” (“alone,”) inscribed upon their arms, their clothes,
+and their houses. Schultes tells us that a wag Latinised it “Solus cum
+sola.”
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER III.
+
+ Passau--The Inn-stadt--The Fair--The Cathedral--The
+ Bridge--Fortress of Oberhaus--Celebrated View--Maria-hilf--The
+ Ilz-stadt--The Sword Cutlery--Present Manufactures and Commerce
+ of Passau--Talismans--Goitres--Excursions into the Environs of
+ Passau--Confluence of the Inn and the Danube--Krempenstein--Hafner
+ Zell--Its Manufactories--Fichtenstein--The Jochenstein--The Ruin of
+ Ried.
+
+
+A spot where three rivers meet, amidst a quadruple chain of mountains,
+rising four hundred feet above the level of the water, was not
+likely to escape the notice of the ancient lords of the world, and
+consequently the Romans built, upon the promontory between the Inn and
+the Danube, their “Castra Batava.” The Inn-stadt, on the right bank of
+the Inn, and which is connected with Passau by a bridge across that
+river, was the Roman Bojodurum. In St. Severin’s time it was called
+Boitro. The saint saved the city from the wrath of Gibuld, King of
+Swabia, but it was destroyed by Chunimund, the successor of Gibuld,
+while Severin was at his kloster near Vienna, A.D. 475. Bibilo, Bishop
+of Lorch, flying from the destroying Avars, was received with open
+arms by Uttilo II., who built for him here, at the eastern end of the
+city, the Nonnen-kloster of Nidernburg, A.D. 739. About one hundred
+and fifty years later, the successors of this bishop modestly laid
+claim to the whole city; and kept it in defiance of king and kaiser,
+till the year 1802, shortly after which period it was secularized
+and given to the Grand Duke of Tuscany. The bishopric of Passau,
+under its ecclesiastical princes, included (besides the city of
+Passau, the Inn-stadt, and the Ilz-stadt,) the castles of Marsbach
+and Rana-riedl, the market-towns of Ebersberg and Ips, the towns of
+Mautern, Amstetten, Greifenstein, Stockerau, St. Andre, and many other
+places in Austria, nearly the whole of the present bishopric of Linz,
+and a large portion of Bohemia. One of these sovereign prelates, of
+the family of Hohenloe, ran the bishopric; notwithstanding its immense
+revenues, into considerable debt, while, with great affectation of
+piety and contempt for the pomps and vanities of this life, he caused
+to be inscribed on the walls of his palace, “O Welt! O böse Welt!” (“O
+world! O wicked world!”) upon which a waggish dean wrote under, as in
+continuation of the sentence, “Wie übel verzehrst Du des Hochstifts
+Geld!” (“How ill dost thou consume the chapter’s gold!”) At the same
+time let us not forget that we are, perhaps, indebted to a Bishop of
+Passau for the preservation of that most interesting, as well as most
+ancient, specimen of Teutonic romance, the Nibelungen-lied. Pelegrin,
+or Pilgerin, Bishop of Passau, who died in 991, collected the then
+current legends of the Nibelungen, which he committed to writing in
+the favourite Latin tongue, with the assistance of his scribe Conrad,
+whose name has occasioned the Swabian poem to be sometimes ascribed to
+Conrad of Wurtzburg, who lived long after.[27] On the 2d of August,
+1552, was signed here the celebrated treaty, or pacification of Passau,
+by the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, as representative of his brother,
+the Emperor Charles V., and Maurice of Saxony, in the name of the
+Protestant party.
+
+In 1610, the Emperor Rudolph raised a body of troops in the diocese
+of Passau, which, on his reconciliation the same year with his
+brother Matthias, he affected to disband, at the same time purposely
+withholding their pay, in order to afford them a pretext for invading
+Bohemia. The troops accordingly, under the command of their leader
+Ramée, burst into Upper Austria, spreading themselves over the country
+beyond the Danube, and after committing every species of devastation,
+passed into Bohemia, where they were at last defeated near Prague,
+after they had extorted three hundred thousand florins from the
+Emperor[28].
+
+On entering the city we found it was fair time, and the square before
+the cathedral was filled with booths, and gay with peasantry in their
+holiday dresses. Prints and pipe-heads, cotton handkerchiefs of the
+most staring colours, and the splendid gold and silver caps worn by the
+women of the neighbourhood, amongst which we saw, for the first time,
+the magnificent and tasteful Linzer Haube, were the principal articles
+for sale; but it did not appear to us that there were many purchasers.
+The cathedral has nothing to boast of in the way of architecture or
+painting. The present building dates from the year 1662, the former
+edifice having been destroyed by fire. Not having much time to spare,
+we hastened across the bridge over the Danube into the Ilz-stadt, on
+the left bank, and ascended the winding staircase cut in the rock,
+to the fortress of Oberhaus, the Ehrenbreitstein of Passau. It was a
+broiling business, under a vertical sun, but we were told the view
+from the summit would amply repay us for any fatigue we might endure
+in the ascent; and breathless with expectation, as well as exertion,
+we stood at length upon the brow of the mountain. But little was to be
+seen from that spot, except the tops of the towers, and the houses
+of Passau, and we walked on through ploughed fields, a curious sight
+in such a situation, to the fortress, from the walls of which we
+expected to realize our excited hopes. But though permitted to enter
+the building, sentinels at each angle checked every attempt to gain a
+commanding situation, with their eternal “es ist verboden;” and hot,
+weary, and disappointed, we prepared to “march down again,” when a
+fortunate chance led us to the wished-for spot. Whether it was not the
+right one, or that our previous annoyances had rendered us captious
+and discontented, I cannot pretend to say, but certainly the view,
+though extraordinary enough in character, fell woefully short of our
+expectations in point of extent and beauty. The Inn is seen writhing
+through its mountain gorge, to join the Danube, which at this point
+it much exceeds in width, and the church of Maria-hilf, on its bluff
+rock above the Inn-stadt, forms a fine object in the fore-ground. But
+the hills are too lofty, notwithstanding the elevation on which one is
+placed, to permit the eye to follow the windings of the two rivers
+to any distance, and the view from the water, at the point of their
+confluence, is, in my opinion, far preferable. The old fort of Oberhaus
+was built in 1219, by Bishop Ulrich, to keep the citizens of Passau
+in awe[29]. Maria-hilf was once, and I believe is still, a celebrated
+place of pilgrimage; and here is the miraculous image of the Virgin,
+up to which the pilgrims used to crawl upon their knees. The infant
+Jesus is clasped to one breast, and from the other, water flows out of
+a little silver pipe, into the mouth of the pious votary. The image of
+the Virgin in the church of Maria-hilf at Vienna, was made from this
+model; but the Viennese have had the good taste to dispense with the
+water-pipe. In 1781, a vessel, with two hundred pilgrims, was wrecked
+on the Inn, and one hundred and fifty unfortunate beings perished.
+
+Descending into the Ilz-stadt, (the suburb of Passau, on the left bank,
+so called from the Ilz, that rolls its dark waves into the Danube,
+beneath the fortress of Oberhaus,) we hailed a little market-boat that
+was just leaving the shore, and were speedily ferried over by a stout
+wench to the eastern end of Passau, where our bark lay moored while the
+passports of ourselves and crew were undergoing the regular inspection,
+etc. Notwithstanding it was fair time, there was little bustle either
+on the banks or in the town. Commerce, which once flourished so greatly
+at Passau, has of late years, from various circumstances, sadly
+declined. Its sword-cutlery, celebrated as early as the thirteenth
+century for the famous Wolfs-klingen (_i. e._ Wolf-blades,) was
+destroyed by religious persecutions, about the close of the sixteenth,
+when nearly all the workmen, two hundred of whom lived in the Inn-stadt
+alone, sought refuge in Austria. At the beginning of the seventeenth
+century a manufactory of striped paper was established, which supplied,
+in some degree, the loss of the sword-cutlery; and Passau is still the
+stapel-platz, or principal depôt for the salt of Bavaria, which is
+brought down the Salza and the Inn, from the works at Hallein; but
+the benefit which now accrues to the inhabitants from this privilege
+is little or nothing, compared with what the salt trade produced
+to them in the middle ages, when they carried it on, on their own
+accounts. During the thirty years’ war, talismans were sold here, which
+the venders professed would render the wearers invulnerable. A safer
+speculation could scarcely have been imagined, as, until they had tried
+them, no one had a right to complain of imposition, and those who did
+try them and found them ineffectual, generally made the discovery too
+late to expose or punish the impostor. The people of Passau and its
+neighbourhood might be considered particularly good-looking, were it
+not for the hideous goitre, which is exceedingly common in this part
+of Germany. The appearance of this excrescence is most disgusting
+to the eye of the unaccustomed traveller, but the natives take no
+measures to prevent or to conceal it: and, indeed, both here, as in
+some parts of Switzerland, it is considered by many a beauty, instead
+of a deformity. Schultes recommends, to those who have the time to
+make them, excursions to Formbach, Wernstein, and several other places
+in the environs of Passau, and a ramble up the wild valley of the Ilz,
+to the ruins of the old castle of Halz, the seat of an ancient family,
+that, rising into fame through the deeds of Albert the Valiant, in the
+time of Rudolph of Hapsburg, became extinct with the death of Count
+Luitprand, in 1375. We, however, had too long a journey in perspective
+to venture on including ourselves in that number, so late in the
+season, and with particular objects in view; and as our steersman made
+his appearance a few moments after we returned to the boat with our
+papers “en régle,” we were soon in the middle of the stream again, and
+rapidly bidding adieu to the Coblentz of the Danube.
+
+The view down the two rivers, (the Inn and the Danube,) from the point
+of their confluence, is, as I have already mentioned, in my opinion,
+far more beautiful though not so extraordinary as that obtained from
+the heights above them. Standing in the stern of the boat, and looking
+back on the too rapidly disappearing scene, on our right arose the
+long walls and round towers of Oberhaus, upon a range of precipices
+richly hung with wood, and full four hundred fathoms high; on our left
+stood the Maria-Hilf-berg, crowned with its church, and the houses of
+the Inn-stadt picturesquely grouped at its foot,--in the centre, the
+town of Passau, forming a salient angle upon a plane of water, nearly
+two thousand feet in width, and standing like an island between two
+of the noblest rivers in Germany. The time allowed us to contemplate
+this lovely scene, was as brief as the enjoyment was exquisite. The
+Danube, reinforced by the waves of the Inn and the Ilz, rushes, with
+redoubled speed round a rocky cape, and presto! your boat is gliding
+between banks so savage and solitary, that you can scarcely believe
+some necromantic spell has not transported you, in the twinkling of
+an eye, thousands of miles from that “peopled city,” the hum of which
+still lingers in your ear. In its eccentric course, the river now forms
+itself, as it were, into a chain of beautiful lakes, each apparently
+shut in on all sides by precipitous hills, clothed with black firs
+that grow down to the very water’s edge, while from amongst them
+peeps out, here and there, one of the little Swiss-looking cottages
+I have before mentioned, with perhaps a rustic bridge thrown across
+a small cleft or chasm, through which a mountain rivulet falls like
+a silver thread into the flood below. On doubling one of the abrupt
+points which produce this lake-like appearance, we came suddenly upon
+the chateau of Krempenstein, or Grampelstein, perched on a mass of
+rock, jutting out from a fir-clad precipice, that rises majestically
+behind it. It belonged, for nearly four hundred years, to the bishops
+of Passau, who, in conformity with the general practice of the time,
+levied contributions upon the passing vessels, translating the awkward
+term of robbery into the more legal epithet of toll. The peasantry and
+schiffers in the neighbourhood call it the Schneider-Schlossel, and
+tell a story of some poor tailor who, in flinging a dead goat into
+the river from the walls of the building, fell over with it and was
+drowned, a circumstance which they think exceedingly comical. The age
+of the building, and the terrific beauty of its situation, deserve a
+more interesting tradition. On turning another sharp corner,--forgive,
+gentle reader, the unnautical expression, for I know of none other
+that will so well describe the acute angles that present themselves
+at almost every thousand yards upon this extraordinary river,--you
+perceive Bürnwang, or Birchenwang, with its mill; and in the distance,
+on the left bank, the small market-town of Hafner or Oberzell. Little
+would a traveller imagine, on looking at this unpretending town, that
+its manufactures have been, from time immemorial, eagerly sought
+throughout the civilized world--that, from the banks of the Ganges
+to the Gulf of Mexico, from St. Petersburg to Peru, there are no
+articles of commerce more generally circulated and esteemed, than
+those which are fabricated in this sequestered nook by the hands of
+a few German potters. The famous crucibles, known by the name of
+Ipser or Passauer-Tiegel, are all made at Hafner-zell. About three
+hundred persons are constantly employed in this manufacture; but as
+the towns of Passau and Ips are of greater consequence in the map,
+their names have been connected with the ware; and the goldsmith and
+chemist, while reaping the benefit of its industry, are ignorant
+probably of the existence of such a place as Hafner-zell. There are
+also here manufactories of black-lead pencils, and a particular sort
+of black earthenware, the materials for both of which are found in the
+neighbourhood, which is rich in mineral and other productions, worthy
+the attention of the geologist and natural historian.
+
+Not far from Hafner-zell, on the right bank, stands the chateau of
+Fichtenstein, on the summit of a stupendous hill, clothed, like the
+rest of its giant brethren, with forests of pine and fir. A modern
+mansion is near it; and at the foot of the hill are a few poor
+cottages, with a little church, the spire of which is just visible
+above the trees. Fichtenstein belonged anciently to the Counts of
+Wasserburg, another race of knightly plunderers. Conrad, Count of
+Wasserburg and Fichtenstein, on quitting Germany for the Holy Land,
+pledged this stronghold to Ulric, Bishop of Passau, in 1218, who
+advanced a considerable sum of money on the extra condition that the
+castle should be forfeited entirely if the Count did not return from
+Palestine. Conrad, however, did return, and, dying soon afterwards,
+left his castle to his lady. Bishop Gebhard, the successor of Ulric,
+immediately set up some claim to the property, and declared war against
+the countess. He was defeated, however, and taken prisoner by a gallant
+knight, upon which he proceeded to excommunicate the whole party. The
+spiritual weapon had considerably more effect than the temporal, and
+the unfortunate countess was obliged to surrender her castle to the
+bishopric of Passau, A.D. 1226[30]. Further on, a rock rises out of
+the middle of the river, and upon it stands a small building like a
+sentry-box. It is called the Jochenstein; and from the arms of the
+town of Passau and those of the empire being cut on the sides of it,
+is generally considered by the Schiffers, the Gränze, or boundary
+stone between Bavaria and Austria. Schultes, however, denies this, and
+tells us, that the real Gränze is the old tower of Ried, upon a rock
+facing Engelhard’s-zell. Be this as it may, we considered ourselves,
+upon the faith of our steersman, entering the Austrian dominions as we
+passed the rock; and, accordingly, drank three bumpers of excellent
+Stein-wine to their imperial and royal majesties of Austria, Bavaria,
+and England, with the sincere wish that no mistaken policy might
+disturb the friendship so happily existing between the three nations,
+or the general peace and prosperity of Europe. We soon came in sight
+of Engelhard’s-zell, where the Austrian custom-house is established;
+and opposite to which rises the old tower already mentioned, upon
+the end of a long fir-clad hill. Nothing is known of the ancient
+history of this little ruin; which, according to the peasantry of the
+neighbourhood, was reduced to its present state by the Swedes. The
+whole district from Marsbach to this spot is called the Riedermark,
+and is supposed to have been, in the ninth century, the seat of the
+Rheadarii.
+
+                        FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER III)
+
+[27] Vide ‘Lays of the Minnesingers, or German Troubadours.’ 12mo.
+Lond. 1825, p. 113, and the Appendix to the ‘Nibelungen-lied’, called
+“Die Klage,” _i. e._ the Lament.
+
+[28] Coxe’s ‘History of the House of Austria,’ vol. ii. pp.
+419, 20. I have mentioned these circumstances, as the devastations
+committed by these troops, who are called by the German writers the
+Passauer Volk, are still but too visible upon the banks of the Danube,
+and will be alluded to hereafter.
+
+[29] The Austrian commander Plantini was beheaded at Ingolstadt, in
+1743, for delivering this fortress up to the Bavarians, without firing
+a shot.
+
+[30] Mr. Russel, in his tour in Germany, speaking of the number of
+abbeys, monasteries, etc., has taken up the cause of these holy
+locusts, and contends, with all that ingenuity and talent which
+characterize his excellent work, that it is wrong to accuse the
+princes, or pious individuals who endowed them, of having been
+imprudently liberal to the church. "Thousands of acres were given,
+_but they were acres of wood and water, utterly unproductive to the
+public_, and which would probably have remained for centuries in
+the same wild state, if they had been the property of a quarrelsome
+baron, instead of belonging to _the peaceful sons of the church_.
+The monks, though idle themselves, were not encouragers of idleness in
+their subjects. Their leisure allowed them to instruct, and their love
+of gain led them to aid, their vassals in agricultural science, rude
+as it was, while, at the same time, the sacred character which they
+enjoyed, placed their peasantry beyond the reach of the oppressions
+practised by feudal nobles. It has long been a current proverb in
+Germany, 'Man lebt gut unter dem Krummstab[_30a_].' It is true
+that one is apt to feel provoked when he is told that these fruitful
+vallies and the pasture hills which rise along their sides, belong to
+a congregation of idle monks. But monks were the very men who made the
+vallies fruitful, and the hills useful. They received them _covered
+with trees_, and rocks--_no very liberal boon_[_30b_], and
+it was they who planted them with corn and stored them with sheep."
+This is all very true, as far as regards the benefits which mankind has
+eventually received from these establishments; for we have likewise
+to thank the cowl and crosier, for much if not all the valuable
+information respecting the days of our fathers and "the old time before
+them," which the chronicles, written and illuminated in abbey and
+convent, contain. But let the praise be given to that Providence, "from
+seeming evil still producing good," in whose hands these monks were the
+unconscious instruments of spreading that very light and information
+which it was their constant study and employment to extinguish and
+contract. The hypocrisy and cupidity of these self-elected saints are
+far less pardonable than the brutal ferocity of the barons, whose
+pitiable ignorance and superstition; the roots of the evil, they
+fostered for their own advantage. Instead of employing the influence
+which their superior education and sacred character gave them over
+the minds of these uncultivated men, in the truly Christian task of
+curbing their passions, enlightening their understandings, and bringing
+them to a sense of the folly and wickedness of their ways, they meanly
+exerted it for the purposes of self-aggrandizement, utterly careless of
+the pitiable state of destitution and degradation in which, by their
+rapacious demands and disgusting mummeries, they were daily sinking
+their poor, besotted, bigoted, but often truly noble benefactors. The
+knave who swindles a silly heir out of his property may wonderfully
+improve the estate and build an hospital with the money; but he is no
+less a knave because the poor and the sick are eventually gainers; nor
+is the folly of the unfortunate dupe an excuse, in the eye of honour
+and honesty, for his crime; which is, on the contrary, aggravated by
+the advantage taken of the victim's imbecility. Avarice and ambition,
+however, sowed the seeds of their own destruction. The Church of Rome
+might have flourished to this day, had not its grasping hand pressed so
+heavily upon its subjects, as at length to rouse them from their trance
+and open their eyes, not so much to its errors as to its wealth. Truly
+does Schiller remark, that "Had it not been closely backed with private
+advantages, and state interests, the arguments of theologians, and the
+voice of the people, would never have met with princes so willing to
+espouse their cause, nor the new doctrines have found so numerous, so
+brave, and so obstinate champions!"... "The desire of independence, the
+rich plunder of monastic institutions, gave charms to the Reformation
+in the eyes of princes, and strengthened not a little their inward
+conviction of its necessity."... "Without the imposition of the tenth
+and twentieth pennies, the See of Rome had never lost the United
+Netherlands." The question, "Why the Pope, who is richer than several
+Crœsus's, cannot build the Church of Saint Peter with his own money,
+but does it at the expense of the poor?" was more staggering than that
+of his infallibility. The _sale_ of indulgences first induced men
+to inquire into the power of the Church to _grant_ them. The heavy
+coffers of the abbots, and the glittering ornaments of their shrines
+and altars drew the swords of such adventurers as Christian, Duke of
+Brunswick, who issued a coinage composed of church-plate, and bearing
+the motto--"A friend to God and an enemy to the priesthood." "Woe unto
+them," says the inspired Isaiah, "_that join house to house, that lay
+field to field, till there be no place, that they may be placed alone
+in the midst of the earth_.
+
+"_Which justify the wicked for reward_, and take away the
+righteousness of the righteous from him.
+
+"_Therefore is the anger of the Lord kindled against his people, and
+he stretched forth his hand against them, and hath smitten them_,
+and the hills did tremble, and _their carcases were torn in the midst
+of the streets_. For all this his anger is not turned away, _but
+his hand is stretched out still_."
+
+Such were the crimes of the Church of Rome; such has been its
+punishment, and "His anger," indeed, "is not turned away"--"His hand is
+stretched out still." Who can look upon its fallen state, and listen
+to the cry of its unfortunate remnant, without exclaiming in the words
+of Jeremiah, "How is she become as a widow; she that was great among
+the nations, and princess among the provinces! How is she become
+tributary!"
+
+  [30a] “One lived well under the crosier.”
+
+  [30b] _No very liberal boon, Mr. Russel!_ What! In a country where
+  wood is to this day the staple commodity? where the greater part of
+  the revenue of many of the nobles, and the entire incomes of thousands
+  of the peasantry, are derived from the sale of the trees with which
+  nature has so lavishly clothed the land? from the produce of those
+  very   “acres of wood,” which you, from some strange slip of memory,
+  describe as “utterly unproductive to the public.” The “_peaceful sons
+  of the church_,” amongst whom, of course, you number the warlike
+  bishops of Passau, Strasburgh, Bamberg, Freysingen, Ratisbon, et hoc
+  genus omne, knew uncommonly well the value of those _unproductive_
+  acres.
+
+
+
+
+                               AUSTRIA.
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+ Engelhard’s-zell--Rana-riedl--Marsbach--Wesen
+ Urfar--Waldkirche--Hayenbach--The Schlägen--The Rhine and the
+ Danube contrasted--Ober Michl--Neuhaus--Aschach--The paper-money of
+ Austria--Castle of Schaumberg--Environs of Aschach--Ober Walsee--Story
+ of Hans von Eschelberg--Sketch of the Insurrections in the seventeenth
+ Century.
+
+
+No sooner had our boat touched the land, beside the little white-washed
+custom-house at Englehard’s-zell, than it was surrounded by a swarm of
+officials, one of whom, in the uniform of the Austrian police, which
+is, I believe, the same as that of the customs, viz. grey with green
+facings, etc., desired us to land; and, at the same time, we were
+hailed from the shore by a gentlemanlike personage, in plain clothes
+and a foraging cap, with “Messieurs, parlez-vous Français?” On our
+answer in the affirmative, he requested us to follow him into his
+bureau. Having inspected our passports, he asked us if we had anything
+to declare: I replied, not to our knowledge. Had we any snuff or
+tobacco? Neither of us smoked or took snuff. Had we any almanacks, or
+sealed letters? No. Had we any wine, or beer? “Monsieur, nous avons
+fini tout ça en buvant à la santé de sa Majesté l’Empereur.” (Off went
+his cap; the Austrians never mention, or hear mentioned the title
+of their sovereign without uncovering.) Bread, butter, etc.? We had
+finished that too, and would be obliged to him if he would inform us
+where we could get some more. The catechism ended, he returned us our
+passports properly countersigned, and we concluded that we should be
+spared the trouble of unpacking. But, upon returning to the bank, we
+found our portmanteaus and sacs-denuit, with the bundles and knapsacks
+of our crew, spread out in awful array along a bench, in front of
+the Wirths-haus or inn, facing the landing-place. Our friend soon
+reappeared, and the portmanteaus, etc. being opened, he inspected their
+contents very closely; but with none of the rudeness which generally
+characterizes persons in his situation. He looked very suspiciously
+at our little travelling library, and examined the title-page of
+nearly every book; my papers and drawings were also glanced at, but
+no questions were asked. He seemed amazingly pleased with our English
+dressing-cases, upon the razors in which, particularly, he looked with
+a covetous eye. “Ah! messieurs, vous avezlà des jolies choses!” and,
+courteously bowing, he wished us a pleasant journey, and retired.
+
+Having replenished our basket of provisions, and re-embarked our
+baggage, we bade adieu to Engelhardszell. Its environs are very
+beautiful, and there was formerly here a Cistertian monastery, to which
+its inhabitants gave the name of Angelorum Cella, from whence probably
+its present appellation. This monastery was founded A.D. 1293, by the
+wealthy and powerful House of Schaumberg. In 1571, the whole community
+died of the plague, and the building remained uninhabited nearly one
+hundred years. Shortly after its re-establishment, it suffered from a
+fire that broke out in the kitchen, and was rebuilt at the beginning
+of the seventeenth century. The old Pfarr-kirche, or parish church,
+was built as early as 1230. In 1551, another church was erected for the
+same purpose, apparently, as that to which the Maltheser-kirche was
+formerly applied in Ratisbon. The horses were here brought annually
+to the door of the church, and allowed a peep at Saint Pancras, whose
+effigy graced the altar. This sight, and a few oats at the same time
+administered, were supposed to preserve them from all disorders for
+a twelvemonth. Napoleon gave Engelhardszell to the Prince of Wrede,
+who still possesses the domain, and hunts here occasionally. In 1626,
+the revolted peasantry cast chains and ropes across the Danube here,
+to prevent the Bavarians from assisting Herberstorf at Linz. In 1703,
+the Bavarians built here a small flotilla, with floating batteries,
+and threw a bridge of boats across the river to facilitate their
+communication with Bohemia.
+
+On the left bank, before we had entirely lost sight of Engelhardszell,
+the chateau of Rana-riedl appeared in the distance, on the ridge of
+a lofty mountain, its white and peaked turrets beautifully backed by
+the deep blue sky. Beside the hill is a ravine, through which the
+Rana-bach brawls into the Danube, turning a mill, and bringing down
+firewood from the mountain forests of Bohemia. The name of this chateau
+first appears in some deeds of the fourteenth century, towards the
+close of which it belonged to a lady of the Rana family, who married a
+knight, named Stephen von Schweinbach. Shortly afterwards, it became
+the property of the grasping Bishops of Passau. Göllinger, Governor of
+Scharding, besieged it in 1486, in the name of the Duke of Bavaria, but
+was compelled to raise the siege by Hans Oberhaimer, the lord of the
+neighbouring Castle of Falkenstein, who reinforced the garrison. Two
+years afterwards, he returned and assaulted it with success. It was
+recovered by the Bishopric in 1490, and lost to it entirely in 1501,
+when it was taken by the Emperor Maximilian I., and pledged by him to
+Henry von Preuschenk. Rudolph II. gave it to the Lords of Salburg in
+1591; at the extinction of which family, it became the property of the
+Counts of Clam, A.D. 1728. The villages of Ober-Rana and Nieder-Rana
+lie one on each side of the Danube, a little below this spot; and
+the river then making a sudden bend to the north, you come in sight
+of the Castle of Marsbach, similarly situated to Rana-riedl. Otto of
+Marsbach, in 1268, dispossessed, by force of arms, his father Ortulph,
+of this castle, and declared war against the Bishop of Passau. Ortulph
+bought it from his unnatural son, at the heavy price of four hundred
+talents, which so reduced his finances that he was compelled to give
+up the castle after all to Passau, in order to relieve himself from
+his difficulties. In 1486, it came into the hands of the Lords of
+Oberhaimer, who carried on a desperate system of plunder against all
+unfortunate travellers, whether by land or by water. One of these
+Oberhaimers attacked the boat of a counsellor of Steyer, Valentine
+Rottenburgher, and carried off booty to the amount of seven hundred
+florins, a considerable sum in those days. In 1610, the castle was
+surprised by the Passauer-volk under Ramée; and, in 1626, Spatt, the
+famous peasant chief, attacked it suddenly, and put the garrison to
+the sword. Opposite to Marsbach, on the right bank, is Wesen, or
+Wesen-Urfar, with its ferry. The family of Wesen became extinct in
+1230, by the death of Erchinger von Wesen, who was captain-general of
+the province of Enns, and lies buried at Engelhardszell. There is a
+famous cellar here, hewn in the rock, by command of the chapter of the
+cathedral of Passau, in which, it is said, you can turn a coach and
+four. In 1626, Adolph, Duke of Holstein-Gottorp, hastening with several
+thousand men to the relief of Herberstorf, landed unfortunately near
+this celebrated cellar. The temptation, I suppose, was too great for
+poor human nature; and the armed peasantry, descending from the hills
+before day-break, fell on the fuddled Swabians, as they lay “somno
+vinoque sepulti,” and slaughtered the greater part of them. The Duke
+himself narrowly escaped in his doublet, and with the loss of all his
+property. On the same bank, but on the ridge of the mountain, and half
+hidden by the dark firs that surround it, stands Waldkirche, with its
+crumbling ruins, which some call the Castle of Waldeck, and others the
+fortress of Wesen. The indefatigable Schultes has been able to gain
+no information respecting it, except that it was bought some time ago
+by a farmer from the Prince of Wrede, most likely with the view of
+demolishing it, and building new huts with the old materials.
+
+Nearly facing Waldkirche rises the ruin of Hayenbach, or Kirchbaum, as
+it is called by the schiffers, upon the ridge of the long, lofty, and
+nearly perpendicular mountain, which terminates the chain on this side
+the valley, and forms a promontory, round which the river, suddenly
+and rapidly wheeling, completely doubles itself, and enters a narrow
+defile, the romantic, and I may say awful, beauty of which surpasses
+all description. So acute is the angle here made by the Danube, that
+the ruin of Hayenbach, though consisting of only one quadrangular and
+not very lofty tower, now presents its northern side to the eye in
+apparently the same situation that it did its southern side scarcely
+ten minutes before. Enormous crags, piled one upon the other, to the
+height of from three to four hundred fathoms; their weather-blanched
+pinnacles starting up amongst the black firs and tangled shrubs, that
+struggle to clothe each rugged pyramid from its base to its apex, form
+the entrance to this grand and gloomy gorge through which the mighty
+stream now boils and hurries, winding and writhing, till at length
+you become so utterly bewildered, that nothing but a compass can give
+you the slightest idea of the direction of its course. The Castle of
+Hayenbach, which seems to guard this extraordinary pass, belonged, in
+the fifteenth century, to the Oberhaimers, the Lords of Falkenstein
+and Marsbach, of whom I have already spoken, and who, no doubt, found
+it admirably situated for the prosecution of that predatory warfare
+in which they “lived, moved, and had their being.” Falkenstein, with
+which this Castle of Hayenbach, or Kirchbaum, is confounded, lies above
+Rana, and is not visible from the Danube, and the same vague tradition
+is attached to each ruin; namely, that it was originally built by
+a knight of the thirteenth century, who, having slain his brother,
+passed the rest of his days with an only daughter in that castellated
+hermitage[31].
+
+For upwards of an hour we glided through scenes increasing in
+sublimity, and calling forth exclamations of wonder and delight, till
+my companion and I mutually confessed that we had exhausted our stock
+of epithets, and stood gazing in far more expressive silence on the
+stupendous precipices which towered above us, almost to the exclusion
+of daylight, their jagged sides
+
+              “Horrid with fern, and intricate with thorn;”
+
+and on the rapid stream that, like Milton’s Fiend,
+
+              “... Through the palpable obscure toiled out
+              His uncouth passage ...
+              ... plunged in the womb
+              Of unoriginal night and chaos wild.”
+
+The pencil of a Salvator Rosa could alone do justice to these wondrous
+scenes. The grandest views upon the Rhine sink into insignificance,
+when compared with the magnificent pictures which the Danube here
+presents us at every turn. The two rivers would have admirably
+illustrated Burke’s ‘Essay on the Sublime and Beautiful.’ Nature has
+contrasted them precisely according to the rules he has laid down in
+the twenty-seventh section of his Third Part. “Sublime objects,” says
+he, “are _vast in their dimensions_, beautiful ones _comparatively
+small_: beauty should be _smooth and polished_; the great, _rugged and
+negligent_: beauty should _shun the right line_, yet _deviate from it
+insensibly_; the great, in many cases, _loves the right line_, and,
+when it deviates, it often makes _a strong deviation_: beauty should
+_not be obscure_; the great ought to _be dark and gloomy_: beauty
+should be _light and delicate_; the great ought to be _solid, and even
+massive_.” The substitution of the words “Rhine” for “Beauty,” and of
+“Danube” for “great,” is nearly all that is necessary to change his
+general comparison into individual portraits of these rival floods, if
+rivalry may be said to exist between two opposite species of perfection.
+
+The ruins on the banks of the Rhine, thickly interspersed as they are
+with smiling villages, busy towns, and sunny vineyards, swarming with
+holiday tourists, and echoing to the whips of Prussian postilions, and
+the rattle of Prussian schnel-wagens, are more like modern antiques
+erected on the confines of some gentleman’s park, than the bona fide
+relics of that truly iron age, “the days of the shield and the spear.”
+From Mayence to Cologne there is scarcely one mile of uninterrupted
+wild scenery; and even if there were, the charm would be broken by
+some pert galley, with its white awning and gaudy flag, some lumbering
+Dutch beurtschiff, or, worse than all, the monstrous anachronism of
+a steam-boat, splashing, sputtering, and fuming along at the rate
+of twelve miles an hour. The mouldering towers that totter upon the
+crags of the Danube, on the contrary, are surrounded by scenery rude
+as the times in which they were reared, and savage as the warriors
+who dwelt in them. Nothing seems changed but themselves. The solitary
+boat that now and then glides by them, is of the same fashion as that
+on which their marauding masters sallied down, perhaps, three hundred
+years ago. The humble cottages that here and there peep through the
+eternal firs, and the church that rears its dusky spire upon some
+neighbouring hill, are of the same age. The costume of the poor
+straggling fishermen and woodcutters around them is scarcely altered;
+and, indeed, one cannot look upon their own walls, blackened by fire,
+and crumbling in the blast, as they mostly are, without conjuring up
+the form of their ancient lord newly returned from Palestine, and
+finding his mountain-fastness burnt and pillaged by some neighbouring
+knight or prelate, with whom he was at feud, and on whom he now
+stands meditating swift and bloody retribution. For hours and hours
+the traveller may wind through these rocky defiles without meeting
+one object to scare the spirit of romance, which rises here in all
+her gloomy grandeur before him. From Passau to Vienna there is but
+one city, Linz, where the glare of modern uniforms, and the rumbling
+of modern vehicles, would dissipate the spell; and, much as I admire
+convenient and expeditious travelling, I should almost weep to see a
+bustling post-road cut beside the lonely Schlägen[32], or a steam-boat
+floundering and smoking through the Strudel and the Wirpel[33].
+
+At the mouth of a small opening on the left bank, through which the
+Kleine-Michl ripples into the Danube, stands Ober-Michl, the only
+village of any consequence in this wilderness. In 1809, the Bohemian
+landwehr, under Colonel Hartman, took many of the French boats laden
+with provisions, near the spot. The Bavarian flotilla, under cover
+of the night and by dropping silently down the stream, escaped their
+notice. After passing two or three small groups of huts, another whirl
+of the river to the north-east brought us in front of the remarkable
+chateau of Neuhaus. Ranged along the brow of a perpendicular rock that
+seems to bar your further progress, stand three distinct buildings,
+(at least so they appear from the river,) giving you more the idea of
+a town than a castle. Far beneath them, but still at a considerable
+height from the water, upon a ledge of the rock, is perched a
+quadrangular ruin, the Toll-tower, no doubt, where the retainers of
+the Counts of Schaumberg, to whom Neuhaus belonged in the fourteenth
+century, were stationed to exact the tribute from the trembling
+schiffers.
+
+In one of the many quarrels between the Counts of Schaumberg and the
+Duke of Austria, Neuhaus fell into the possession of the latter, but
+it was subsequently recovered, and many of the first nobles of Upper
+Austria were Castellans of Neuhaus for the House of Schaumberg. In 1510
+it was annexed to the empire by Maximilian I., and pledged, in 1536,
+by Ferdinand I., for eight thousand silver pfennings, to the Baron of
+Springenstein, to whose heir it was afterwards presented as a free
+gift by Rudolph II. When the Turks, during the reign of the Emperor
+Charles V. burst into Hungary, and threatened Austria with invasion,
+Neuhaus was the asylum to which the women and children flew from all
+quarters. In the war between Rudolph II. and his brother Matthias,
+the troops raised by the former at Passau threw two chains across the
+Danube at this spot, one of which was forged at Steyer, and the other
+brought from Vienna, weighing not less than nine hundred pounds, and
+secured them with eight anchors, and a guard of armed boats. During
+the insurrections in 1626 also, the same measures were taken by the
+peasants, who ill treated the Countess of Springenstein, and made her
+a prisoner in her own castle. Neuhaus is at present, I believe, the
+property of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis.
+
+It is only on arriving at the very foot of the rocky wall, which
+forms an impenetrable barrier to the further progress of the Danube
+northward, that you perceive the outlet from this valley of precipices.
+A beautiful lake opens to the right near the point where the Grosse
+Michl disembogues itself from a woody ravine; and the mountain chain
+gradually sinking on each side, the river widens and widens till the
+passenger would almost fancy it had completed its seaward course, and
+that he was entering upon the broad and fathomless ocean. From the time
+we had entered the gorge at Hayenbach to the period of our passing
+Neuhaus, a passage of at least two hours, we had never caught even a
+momentary glimpse of the sun. He now burst upon us in all the glory
+of his setting, and we seemed absolutely to breathe more freely as we
+emerged from between the stupendous galleries of granite and pine,
+which had imprisoned us nearly all the way from Passau. The mists of
+evening were fast settling upon bank and stream, as the lights of
+Aschach began to twinkle in the distance; and before we could reach the
+village on the opposite bank, where it was our steersman’s intention
+we should sleep, it was quite dark. On going ashore, we found the
+little inn, or rather public-house of the place, completely occupied
+by the passengers and crew of the regular boat, that left Ratisbon the
+morning before we did, and which our night’s voyage from Straubing
+to Vilshofen had enabled us to overtake. On crossing the threshold,
+however, of the dirty vault that “served it for parlour and kitchen and
+all,” we blessed our stars that there was no room for us; and feeling
+our way out again, for the clouds of smoke that rose around rendered it
+impossible for us to rely solely on our visual faculties, we intimated
+our intention of crossing the river to Aschach, where indeed we ought
+to have been originally landed; but our pilot was either afraid
+of the sandbank in front of it after nightfall, or there was some
+understanding between him and the master of the public-house on the
+left bank, postillions and boatmen generally getting their own board
+and lodging gratis as a reward for bringing “grist to the mill,” enough
+being invariably ground out of the said grist to indemnify the miller
+for any liberality he may have been guilty of towards the bearer. A
+lad soon made his appearance with a small boat, into which we jumped
+with our portmanteaus, and were ferried over to the end of a jetty,
+that has been thrown out from the bank, in consequence of the sand
+deposited by the river, which has within the last few years receded
+considerably from the town. Here we found tolerable accommodation, and
+I lost no time in atoning to the drowsy god for the hours of which I
+had defrauded him, the previous night, upon the water.
+
+Aschach was a place of some importance, as early as the times of
+Charlemagne. Thassilo, Duke of Bavaria, gave in the year 772, some
+vineyards at Aschach to the monks of Krems-Münster. In the eleventh
+century the knights of Aschach begin to be celebrated. The Counts of
+Schaumberg possessed it during the middle ages, from whom it passed
+to the Lords of Jörger. At present, as well as the lordship of Stauf,
+it belongs to the Counts of Harrach. The history of this little
+market-town, for nearly the two last centuries, is one uninterrupted
+series of misfortunes. In 1626 it was not only taken and plundered by
+the revolted peasantry, but was for some time their head quarters.
+They endeavoured to chain up the Danube at this place, and obliged
+the town of Steyer, which they had taken at their first rising,
+to furnish them with a chain one hundred fathoms long, every link
+weighing twenty pounds. Besides this chain, they threw across three
+other, and a couple of stout ropes, trusting thereby to intercept
+the provisions and reinforcements for the relief of Herberstorf’s
+troops at Linz. But the Bavarian boats broke through this barrier, as
+they had already done through a similar one at Engelhards-zell. In
+the second insurrection, in 1632, the rebels surprised and plundered
+Aschach again, and remained there till Colonel Traun burnt their
+camp at Landshaag and dispersed them. In the contest with Bavaria,
+in 1809, Aschach suffered considerably both from friend and foe; and
+the removal of the custom-house back to Engelhards-zell in 1819, from
+whence it had been brought at the commencement of the present century,
+was a severe blow to the trade, which had begun to recompense the
+inhabitants for their losses during the war. The extensive sandbank
+which is yearly increasing before it, is an additional obstacle to its
+commerce, and Schultes indulges in melancholy predictions respecting
+the ultimate fate of this unfortunate little town. The wine made in its
+neighbourhood, is remarkable only for its badness, and is the standing
+joke of the inhabitants themselves; we must suppose, therefore, that
+it has either sadly degenerated since Thassilo made the vineyards a
+present to his friends at Krems-Münster, or that the fraternity were in
+want of an immediate supply of vinegar. Aschach is the most northerly
+point, on the Austrian Danube, where grapes are cultivated for that
+purpose. But there is another piece of information respecting this
+place, which is of more consequence than any I have yet mentioned, to
+the modern traveller. The paper money (papier-geld) of Austria here
+first comes into play, and the unapprised foreigner is astonished at
+being apparently charged for his bed, supper, breakfast, or what not,
+about four times as much as he has been in the habit of paying since he
+entered the country of florins and kreutzers.
+
+The gold ducat also, which has passed throughout Bavaria for 4 _fl._ 54
+_k._, and even 5 _fl._ in some places, here falls to its regular value
+of 4-1/2 florins only; and this sudden change is exceedingly perplexing
+to the stranger who has but just become acquainted with the Bavarian
+standard, in time to find it of no use to him.[34]
+
+At day-break, after a hasty cup of coffee, we re-trod the jetty, and
+found the boat waiting to take us over to our weitz-zille, which lay
+moored besides the smoky wirtshaus before mentioned. We were soon
+aboard and afloat again, and gliding by the mouth of the little river
+Aschach that joins the Danube close below the town. By its side, on
+a small hill, stand the scarcely visible remains of the castle of
+Stauf, once the property, as indeed was, at that time, the whole
+surrounding country, of the mighty Counts of Schaumberg, who have been
+already so often mentioned; and, as the sun rose, his earliest beams
+fell upon the splendid ruins of the cradle of that great and ancient
+family--the once strong and beautiful castle of Schaumberg--still
+beautiful in decay,--on a gentle acclivity, and backed by the finely
+wooded mountains, on whose precipitous sides we had the previous day
+gazed so long with mingled awe and admiration. Nor were its picturesque
+white towers the only objects of attraction in the magnificent scene
+which gradually expanded upon our sight, as the morning mist rose like
+a curtain from before it. The broad river lay gleaming like a sheet
+of burnished gold beneath us; before us a number of richly wooded
+islands divided the glittering stream into twenty different channels
+to the right and left. Looking westward, the mountains of Bavaria and
+Bohemia stretched out their giant arms, as in despair at the escape
+of the flood they had so long held in thrall. At the mouth of the
+defile from which we had issued, stood the little town of Aschach.
+Still more to the south, the ruined castles of Stauf and Schaumberg,
+and, far away in the south-east, but clearly defined against the blue
+horizon, towered the Alps and Glaciers of the Steyer-Mark, their snowy
+and fantastic peaks alternately tinted with pink and purple, and gold,
+by the changeful glories of sunrise. It was, indeed, a most exquisite
+panorama, and fully justifies the heroics of Professor Schultes,
+though, in his enthusiastic admiration of the Danube, he is unjust to
+the really beautiful Rhine. “An Englishman,” says he, “who had often
+made the voyage of the Danube, and also that of the Rhine, from Mainz
+to Utrecht, in search of the picturesque, showed me his journal of the
+Rhine voyage. It contained only two words, ‘Toujours perdrix[35].’”
+But to return to the Castle of Schaumberg. The picturesque ruins which
+formed so fine a feature in the prospect before us, were, as I have
+already said, the cradle and principal seat of the once terrible Counts
+of that name. In the twelfth century, their signatures appear to many
+deeds, spelt indifferently Schoumbergh, Schowenberch, and Schawenberch.
+As late as 1548, the Schaumbergs were free counts of the empire, and
+their names are entered in the Reichs-Matrikel, (the roll or register
+of the empire,) as bound to furnish six horse and twenty-six foot men
+at arms,--a slender contingent for a family that could, by lifting a
+finger, have brought thousands into the field. Their domains extended
+from the Bavarian frontier, beyond Linz, and included the market
+towns and castles of Baierbach, Stauf, Aschach, Efferding, Neuhaus,
+Flayenbach, Ober and Unter Wesen, Fichtenstein, Weidenholz, Mistelbach,
+nearly the whole of the Donau-Thal, from Passau to Schaumberg, and
+farther inland, in the old Traun-gau, Kammer upon the Attersee,
+Frankenberg, Wildeneck, etc. etc. Wilhelm, son of Wernhard, Count of
+Julbach, a descendant of one of the thirty-two children of Babo of
+Abensberg, was the first lord of the castle who assumed the name of
+Schaumberg, A. D. 1161. His successor, forming alliances with the
+families of the Landgraves of Leuchtenberg, the Burggraves of Nürnberg,
+and the Dukes of Austria, became gradually more and more powerful,
+exacted heavy tolls on the Danube, at Neuhaus and Aschach, plundered
+travellers, took their less powerful neighbours prisoners, for the
+sake of extorting ransom, or compelling them to join their league,
+and, in short, were worthy supporters of the famous “faust-recht” of
+Germany.[36]
+
+Sometimes, a twinge of conscience made them endeavour to propitiate
+heaven, by letting its servants share a little in the plunder; and,
+with this view, they founded, in 1325, the Kloster of Saint Niklas by
+Passau, and, in 1323, the Convent at Baumgartenberg; and by degrees
+permitted the boats, etc. appertaining to most of the surrounding
+monasteries and convents, to pass Aschach toll free.
+
+Notwithstanding their alliance by marriage, terrible feuds were
+continually springing up betwixt the Counts of Schaumberg and the Dukes
+of Austria; and the assistance which Henry of Schaumberg, in 1319, gave
+to Frederick the Handsome, against Louis the Bavarian, is almost a
+solitary instance of the families siding together in warfare. So much
+were their valour and influence dreaded by the principal potentates
+of Germany, that Albert II., Duke of Austria, surnamed the Lame, and
+Louis the Bavarian, entered into a solemn contract at Passau in 1340,
+by which they bound themselves never to make offensive or defensive
+league with the Counts of Schaumberg.
+
+In 1366, Albert III.[37], having made war upon Henry Count of
+Schaumberg, the latter appealed to the Emperor Charles IV., who
+appointed the Burggraves of Nürnberg and Magdeburg umpires between the
+parties. The Burggraves decided in favour of Albert, and the Count
+of Schaumberg and his descendants were declared subjects of Austria,
+and the castles of Kammer, Neuhaus, and Fichtenstein forfeited to the
+duchy, besides the immense sum, for that period, of twelve thousand
+florins. Henry, enraged at this heavy sentence, took the first
+opportunity of renewing the war with Albert, who in 1379 in person
+besieged the castle of Schaumberg; and the contest was carried on with
+great fury and bitterness, till Stephen, Duke of Bavaria, reconciled
+the parties and induced Count Henry to hold the castles of Neuhaus and
+Stauf, and the market town of Efferding, as fiefs of Austria. This
+peace, however, was, as might have been expected, of no long duration.
+The Counts again declared themselves independent, and the struggle
+continued with alternate success, till the church stept in out of pure
+charity, scandalized to see such a waste of treasure, and like the
+lawyer in the old story, settled the matter by swallowing the oyster
+and leaving the shells to the disputants. One by one the contested
+estates became the property of this and that kloster, till at length,
+in 1548, the family of Schaumberg became so straitened for means,
+that it could no longer defend the little that was left of its once
+immense dominions, and acknowledging the feudal sovereignty of Austria,
+became extinct in 1559 by the death of Count Wolfgang.--The castle
+of Schaumberg at present belongs to the Prince of Starrhemberg, an
+ancestor of whose family married one of the last female descendants of
+the line of Schaumberg. There is a tradition that the Danube originally
+ran beneath its walls, but there appears no foundation for such a
+belief. The chapel and two watch-towers are still tolerably perfect:
+on the walls of the former there are said to exist some paintings of
+the fourteenth century; I regret exceedingly that my ignorance of the
+fact, when I was in the vicinity, prevented my inspecting them. If they
+really be of the date assigned to them, and in tolerable preservation,
+they would be worth a pilgrimage.
+
+A stone pillar near a brook, in the valley before the castle, is said
+to record the fate of a Count of Schaumberg, who, though invincible in
+battle or tournament, could not resist the charms of a fair maiden,
+“armed at both eyes,” the daughter of a miller, in the valley of
+Aschach. One night as he was riding to a rendezvous, his horse started
+(as well he might) at the sudden appearance of a fiery dragon that
+rushed out of a thicket before him, became unmanageable, plunged at
+last with his master over a precipice into the swollen torrent below;
+and the first object that met the unfortunate maiden’s sight when she
+opened her casement in the morning, was the floating corses of her
+noble lover and his favourite steed.
+
+Nearly facing Aschach, on the left bank, is the poor little market-town
+of Landshaag, formerly belonging to the convent of Niedernburg at
+Passau, but now, of course, to Austria. This little place suffered
+terribly during the insurrections of 1626 and 1632, from the rebels,
+who in the latter year had their camp in its neighbourhood.
+
+About half an hour’s walk to the eastward of this little town stands,
+on the top of one of the Klausberge, in a forest of fruit-trees,
+the ruin of Ober-Walsee. A castle was originally built here by the
+Schaumbergs, but it was most probably destroyed by the celebrated
+Ulrich of Walsee, governor of Styria, who suppressed the rebellion
+which had broken out in these districts during the absence of Frederick
+the handsome, Duke of Austria, in 1309, and repelled Otto Duke of
+Bavaria, who attempting to profit by the intestine commotion, had
+invaded Frederick’s dominions; Ulrich, before Frederick could hasten to
+his assistance, had already subdued the refractory, and ravaged their
+property with fire and sword. In return for this and other services
+rendered to the Dukes of Austria by the family of Walsee, Rodolph IV.
+gave permission to Eberhard von Walsee, in 1364, to build a strong
+fortress on the Klausberge, a permission which, while it had the
+appearance of a favour conferred upon the Lords of Walsee, furthered
+the views of the Duke, inasmuch as it placed a strong curb upon the
+neighbouring Counts of Schaumberg, the implacable enemies of the House
+of Hapsburg. The descendants of Eberhard possessed this castle, which
+received the name of Ober-Walsee, till the extinction of the male
+branch in 1485, when the last female of the family, Barbara of Walsee,
+in obedience to that power
+
+                “Qui tient sous son empire
+                Le genre humain les ânes et les Dieux,”
+
+gave her hand to Count Siegmund of Schaumberg, one of the sworn foes
+of her own house as well as that of Austria, and added both Ober and
+Nieder-Walsee, a castle lower down on the Danube, to the possessions of
+the Schaumbergs. In 1559 the family of Schaumberg became also extinct;
+and Ober-Walsee, after passing through several hands, descended to the
+Princes of Staremberg, who were also Lords of the neighbouring castle
+and domain of Eschelberg.
+
+Respecting one Hans of Eschelberg, Schultes has a rigmarole story,
+which (unless he be jesting, and there is nothing to lead one to such
+a conclusion) proves him, however well acquainted with the history of
+his own country, unaccountably deficient in information regarding that
+of others. This said Hans, who commenced his military career under
+Louis the Bavarian, at the siege of Lindau, and received the honour
+of knighthood from that Emperor, for his valiant exploits therein,
+followed John, King of Bohemia, into Poland, and shared in the victory
+of that monarch at Cracow; not finding himself sufficiently recompensed
+for his services, accepted an invitation from Edward III. of England,
+who was then besieging Calais, and assisted him in the reduction of
+that place. So far so good; but not contented with claiming these
+probable services for his hero, Herr Schultes, upon the strength of a
+fragment of an old ballad, quoted by Hoheneck, makes him the bearer of
+the English standard at the battle of Cressy, where, “mirabile dictu,”
+he took the French king prisoner with his own hand (at Cressy!), while
+his knightly companions slew John, King of Bohemia, and Peter, King
+of Navarre! At a feast given on the field, in honour of the victory,
+Edward III. paid Sir Hans of Eschelberg the distinguished compliment
+of seating him between himself and the captive king, presented him
+with one hundred marks of silver, etc. etc. He afterwards returned to
+Germany, beat the Bohemians, became the champion of dukes, princes,
+and bishops; flew back to his old friend Edward, when again investing
+Calais, who rewarded him with more money and honours; returned again
+to his native land, and, after thirty years of battle and victory
+in all parts of Europe, died captain of the lands upon the Ens. The
+Professor seems quite heart-broken that this doughty warrior has never
+been mentioned by any historian, and perfectly unconscious of the way
+in which the author of the old ballad, with the license or ignorance
+of most of the romantic writers of the middle ages, has mixed up the
+two perfectly distinct battles of Cressy and Poictiers, confounding
+incidents, leaders, and periods, with the utmost sang froid and
+complacency.
+
+The banks of the Danube, from Aschach to Linz, witnessed the greater
+part of those bloody struggles between the two principal sects of a
+religion revealed for the beneficent purpose of promoting “peace on
+earth, good will towards men,” which convulsed the provinces of Upper
+Austria during the seventeenth century; and as the actors in them have
+already been mentioned more than once, and will be frequently named
+hereafter, I shall venture to give, in as few words as possible, a
+sketch of the insurrections of 1626 and 1632, particularly as they have
+been merely alluded to by Schiller, in his history of the thirty years’
+war, and Coxe, in his history of the House of Austria, the two most
+elaborate works upon that period familiar to the English reader,--the
+deeds of a Gustavus, a Wallenstein, and a Tilly, having naturally
+occupied their attention, to the exclusion of all less generally
+important circumstances.
+
+The object which Ferdinand II., Emperor of Germany, had most at heart,
+from worldly as well as spiritual motives, was the extirpation of the
+reformed religion. The battle of Prague had no sooner decided the fate
+of Bohemia, than he tore, with his own hand, the memorable letter
+of majesty extorted from Rudolph II. by the states of the kingdom,
+in favour of the Protestants, and burnt the seal; and proceeded not
+only to the revocation of the privileges granted to them by his
+predecessors, which he had _not_ confirmed, but even of those which
+had received his own unqualified approbation. He intimated to all the
+Protestants in his dominions, that they must either abandon their
+religion or their native country,--a bitter and terrible choice, which
+excited the most violent commotions amongst his Austrian subjects,
+and particularly in the district above the Ens. Upper Austria had
+been, for some time, held in pledge by the Elector of Bavaria, for the
+indemnification promised him by the Emperor for his assistance against
+the Evangelic Union; and Count Adam von Herberstorf, who commanded the
+Bavarian troops at Linz, had been guilty of unnecessary severities
+towards its unfortunate inhabitants. On the 17th of May, 1626, the
+flame, which had been long smothering, burst into a sudden and terrible
+blaze, in consequence of some excesses committed by a straggling party
+of Herberstorf’s soldiery. The Protestant peasantry flew to arms, and,
+in two days, took and plundered the towns of Aschach, Grieskirchen,
+and Baierbach, and the strong fortress of Velden. On the 20th of May,
+Herberstorf marched against the rebels at Baierbach, with twelve
+hundred men and some artillery, but was repulsed with great loss; and,
+after having two horses killed under him, retreated in confusion to
+Linz. The peasantry were now headed by one Stephen Fadinger, a hatter;
+and, in about ten days from their first rising, mustered full seventy
+thousand men, and possessed a park of thirty cannon. Within the first
+eight days, Fadinger had made himself master of Wels, Kremsmünster,
+Vöglabruch, and Gmünden, and in six more, with the exceptions of
+Freystadt, Ens, and Linz, the whole of Upper Austria was overrun, and
+subdued by the insurgents. Flushed with victory, Fadinger invested
+Linz on the 25th of June, and would most probably have succeeded in
+reducing it, had he not received a shot in the thigh from one of
+Herberstorf’s musqueteers, in violation of a short armistice agreed
+upon between the leaders, June 28th, of which wound he died in the
+beginning of the following month[38]. His successor, Achaz Willinger
+von Katterhof, a nobleman, had neither his talent nor his good fortune.
+Steyer and Freystadt, which had fallen just before Fadinger’s death,
+were retaken, fifteen hundred soldiers dispersed twelve thousand
+peasants, in the neighbourhood of Ens; and, in two assaults upon Linz,
+the Protestants were repulsed with terrible slaughter. The Austrian
+commissioner had nearly succeeded in his charitable endeavours to
+restore peace, when some fresh cruelty of Herberstorf’s, or the
+soldiers under his command, kindled anew the torch of discord, and, by
+another change of fortune, the peasantry cut to pieces the troops of
+the Duke of Holstein-Gotton, at Wesen-Urfar, and successively defeated
+the Bavarian general Lindlo, at Geyersberg, Count Preuner, at Haslach,
+Herberstorf, near Gmünden, and even the valiant Löbel, at Wels. The
+celebrated Pappenheim, however, whose mother Count Herberstorf had
+married, retrieved the fortunes of his party, by beating the rebels
+in three following battles at Efferding, Gmünden, and Vöglabruch, but
+not without considerable difficulty, as he himself acknowledges in
+a letter to Herberstorf. “It was,” he writes, “as if my cavalry had
+to combat the massive rocks; for these peasants fought not like men,
+but like infernal furies!” These reverses decided the fate of the
+insurgents; and, though the Imperial commissioner himself declared that
+the peasantry had not risen with treasonable intentions against the
+Emperor, but were goaded into the act by the severity of Herberstorf,
+nearly the whole of the prisoners were hung and quartered, or impaled.
+Achaz Willinger, as he was a nobleman, was beheaded, and his body
+delivered to the Jesuits, who had not been the least important actors
+in this terrible tragedy.
+
+Six years had not elapsed before the continued persecution they
+experienced, stirred up the Protestants again to resistance. In 1632
+a second rising of the peasantry on the Ens was accompanied by the
+same slaughter, and the same devastation; and in these two contests
+alone, which are but trifling episodes in the sanguinary history of the
+thirty years war, upwards of fifty thousand subjects of Austria, upon a
+moderate calculation, were sacrificed to the childish superstition and
+inveterate bigotry of its ruler. “The victory of the White Mountain,”
+says Schiller, “put Ferdinand in possession of all his dominions. He
+even received them with greater powers than his predecessors; since
+their allegiance had been unconditionally pledged to him, and no
+letter of majesty now existed to limit his sovereign authority. The
+war was ended, if justice was his object; and if magnanimity was to be
+united with justice, so was the punishment. The fate of Germany was
+in his hands; the happiness and misery of millions were dependent on
+his resolution. Never was a more important trust placed in a single
+hand; never was the blindness of one individual productive of more
+fatal consequences.” The barbarities committed on both sides, during
+these conflicts, were horrible beyond description. The peasantry had
+treasured up the recollection of the cruelties they had suffered at
+the hands of Herberstorf and his soldiery, and now repaid them with
+dreadful interest. Once goaded over the line of legal authority, their
+ferocity knew no bounds: nor did they glut their lust of vengeance
+upon the soldiery only; those of their own class and sect who did not
+immediately gather round the standard of insurrection, were mutilated
+or slaughtered without compunction. On the other hand the prisoners
+taken by the Catholic party, were tortured and executed with a horrid
+ingenuity, that might have edified a Sioux Indian, or a Spanish
+inquisitor. Ferdinand would only remember that the inhabitants of
+Upper Austria had risen seven times in thirty-seven years, and would
+make no allowances for the provocations which had driven a naturally
+loyal people to desperation. He had been told by his jesuits, that
+Protestantism and rebellion were synonymous terms, and to Ferdinand II.
+“the voice of a monk was the voice of God.” “Nothing on earth,” writes
+his own confessor, “was more sacred in his eyes than the priesthood.
+If it could happen, he used to say, that an angel and a clergyman were
+to meet him at the same time and place, the clergyman should receive
+his first, and the angel his second obeisance[39].” Gracious God! for
+what wise purposes are men permitted to make Thy holy name a signal for
+butchery, to turn the manna of Thy word into poison, and sow with the
+brier and the thorn Thy “ways of pleasantness and Thy paths of peace.”
+
+
+                        FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER IV.)
+
+[31] Vide Baron von Schmidtburg’s ‘Tagebuche einer Donau-Reise.’
+
+[32] The remarkable gorge from Hayenbach to Neuhaus is called by the
+peasantry of the district, “In den Schlägen,” or Schlagleiten.
+
+[33] The Strudel and the Wirpel are a fall and whirlpool in the Danube,
+between Linz and Ips, of which hereafter.
+
+[34] As soon as you reach Frankfort, the Prussian dollars and groschen
+cease to circulate generally, and your bill is made out in the money of
+the empire, that is, in florins or gouldens and kreutzers. The florin,
+or goulden, is a mere nominal coin of the value of sixty kreutzers,
+and the silver pieces in circulation are those of 3, 6, 10, 20, and 30
+kreutzers each, so marked on the reverse. In Bavaria, the 10, 20, and
+30 kreutzer pieces go for 12, 24, and 36 kreutzers; so that the gold
+ducat, the real value of which is 4-1/2 florins, will, in Bavaria, pass
+for 4 _fl._ 54 _k._, and sometimes five florins. In Austria, however,
+the silver coins pass for no more than they are marked, and the ducat
+drops to 4 _fl._ 30 _k._ The Venetian ducat, which is frequently met
+with in Austria, is worth a few kreutzers more than the German ducat.
+The paper florin, or goulden, is two-fifths, or, as the Austrians
+calculate, four-tenths of a good or silver florin.
+
+[35] The remark does not say much for the taste or discrimination of
+the Englishman, whoever he might be. There is an endless variety upon
+the Rhine, which yields to the Danube only in points of grandeur--in
+breadth, extent, and boldness of scenery. In variety, it quite equals
+the Danube, and, I should almost say, surpasses it.
+
+[36] Literally “fist-right,”--the right of the strongest arm,--
+
+            “The good (?) old plan,
+      That they may take who have the power,
+            And they may keep who can.”
+
+[37] Called, in the chronicles of the times, “Albert with the tress,”
+because he wore a lock of hair, which he received either from his wife,
+or from some other distinguished lady, entwined with his own, and
+formed a society of the Tress, not unlike the commencement of our order
+of the Garter: he was likewise called the Astrologer, from his fondness
+for judicial astrology.--Coxe’s ‘History of the House of Austria,’
+chap. 10.
+
+[38] Fadinger was a strong fatalist. Upon his standards were inscribed,
+by his order, the words, “Es muss seyn!” “It must be.”
+
+[39] And yet, as was most just, this poor weak bigot was condemned to
+see some of his dearest hopes frustrated by the treachery of one of his
+vaunted saints. “A Capuchin friar,” exclaimed the deceived Emperor,
+when the duplicity of the celebrated Father Joseph became apparent,
+“has disarmed me with his rosary, and covered six electoral caps with
+his Cowl.”
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER V.
+
+ Efferding.--Ottensheim.--Kloster-Willering.--Linz.--The Platz.--The
+ Landstrasse.--The Schlossberg.--The Landhaus.--The Theatre.--The
+ Bridge.--The Pöstlingberg.--View on leaving Linz.--Steyereck.--The
+ River Traun.--Ebelsberg.--Luftenberg.--Monastery of St.
+ Florian.--Tillysburg.--Spielberg.--Mauthausen.--Ens.--Origin and
+ History of the City.--Antiquities discovered in its neighbourhood.
+
+
+From Aschach to Ottensheim is one labyrinth of islands, through
+which few boats venture without a pilot, as the current of the river
+is continually changing its course, and the deep channel or ditch
+(_Graben_) as the boatmen here call it, through which they have safely
+steered a few days before, may upon their second visit be transformed
+into a sandbank, or blocked up with trunks and branches of trees,
+washed into it by the floods that so frequently occur in this part of
+the country. While passing through this archipelago, the banks of the
+river are seldom visible, but fortunately there is nothing upon them to
+make that circumstance a matter of regret. The whole country between
+Aschach and Willering is said to have been formerly the basin of one
+vast lake, cradled amongst the mountains of Bohemia, Moravia, and Upper
+Austria, and the name of Ilmersee, which appears in the thirteenth
+century, is quoted in confirmation of the tradition. The White Tower of
+Hartkirchen is shortly seen on the right bank. The Catholic minister
+of this church, and his cook-maid, were cruelly murdered here, by the
+revolted peasantry in 1626. Pupping, celebrated for a dead saint, and
+Bergheim for a beautiful brewer_ess_[40], whose strong beer and bright
+eyes distracted the heads and the hearts of her customers, and might
+have sorely tempted the holy St. Otmar himself, had the good man been
+living at the time.--Waschpoint, Wörth, and two or three other small
+villages on the same bank all passed, were ached Efferding, one of the
+oldest places on the Danube. The beautiful Chrimhilt, the heroine of
+the Nibelungen-lied, is said, in that poem, to have rested here upon
+her journey into Hungary. One of the Schaumbergs bought the little town
+from the Bishop of Passau in 1367, for four thousand florins; and at
+the extinction of that family, it came to the Starrhembergs, who built
+a castle here, still called the Burg. A rich and valiant family, of
+the name of Schifer, founded and liberally endowed an hospital here,
+as early as 1325, and expressly commanded that, when there was not a
+sufficient number of sick and poor in the town of Efferding to fill the
+hospital, the governor should send out “into the highways and hedges,
+and compel them to come in.”
+
+On the 1st of September, 1632, the combined peasantry burned the
+suburbs, and, on the 25th, defeated the nephew and namesake of the
+great and merciless Tilly, but, shortly afterwards, were themselves
+defeated by the Imperial troops with great slaughter. Upwards of three
+thousand of the unfortunate men, who fell at various periods in this
+neighbourhood, lie buried here, as did also their leader, Fadinger,
+till Herberstorf had the body disinterred, and carried to Seebach,
+where it was flung into a hole beneath the gibbet. The historian Kurz
+has preserved the receipt for the money paid to the ministers of this
+paltry vengeance. The Bavarians plundered Efferding in 1704 and 1742,
+and it suffered considerably during the last war, from the continual
+fighting in its neighbourhood. A dozen small villages are scattered
+on each bank, between Efferding and Ottensheim; and the Ihn, the
+Bösenbach, and the Rodel, wind amongst them to the Danube. At one of
+these little places, named Hartheim, dwelt in 1620 a lady of the family
+of Aspan, the fame of whose wealth, according to Hoheneck, determined
+a Prince of Saxony to make a personal proposal of marriage. Travelling
+incognito with only two attendants, he fell, near Efferding, into the
+hands of the rebel peasantry, who, taking the unfortunate suitor for
+a spy, put him and his domestics instantly to the sword. At length,
+we approached the square white tower, which had been for some time
+gleaming above the intervening islands; and as we issued from amongst
+them, the little market town of Ottensheim, with its chateau and
+church, all grouped as with an eye to effect, upon a gentle eminence
+projecting into the Danube, gradually glided into view. On a house in
+the market-place, is the figure of a child in a cradle, surmounted by a
+canopy, and underneath it are the following lines:
+
+                 “Im 1208 Jahr.
+                 Da Ottensheim noch nicht genannt war,
+                 Ist Kaiser Otto Auserkohren
+                 Alhier in diesen Haus geboren.”
+
+What _Emperor_ Otto, the worthy composer of this distich intended us to
+believe was born here in 1208, I cannot pretend to determine, as the
+fourth and last emperor of that name was elected as early as 1197; and
+that the place was not called Ottensheim before that period, appears to
+be another equally unfortunate assertion.
+
+Leopold II., Duke of Austria, who died in 1194, sold Wechsenberg,
+_Ottensheim_, Grein, and Hartenstein, to Otto von Schleung, “mit
+leuth und gut,” (with people and property,) for six hundred pounds
+of silver. In the fourteenth century, Heinrich von Neuhaus, Peter
+von Sternberg, and Ulrich von Landstein, laid waste this part of the
+country to the walls of Ottensheim, and began a feud, which desolated
+Upper Austria for upwards of one hundred years. In 1626, a body of the
+insurgents, under a leader named Christoph Zeller, established their
+head-quarters at Ottensheim; and the French plundered the town, both in
+their disastrous retreat in 1742, and their victorious march to Vienna
+in 1809. Ottensheim, however, has recovered from its many disasters,
+and drives a tolerably brisk trade in linen, wood and fruit, pit-coal
+and alum. Between Ottensheim and Kloster-Willering, which faces it,
+there is another rapid race of the river, that forms quite a little
+sea of billows. Kloster-Willering lies at the foot of the fir-crowned
+Kirnberg, which, rising on the right bank, extends its forest-covered
+masses as far as Linz. The Kloster was originally the castle of the
+Knights of Willering, descended from the old Counts of Kirnberg.
+Cholo and Ulrich of Willering, Barons of Weremberg, established some
+Cistertian monks here in 1146. Ulrich went to Palestine, from whence
+he never returned. With him his family became extinct, and the whole
+of his great possessions fell to the fortunate monks of Willering.
+They soon wheedled themselves into the confidence and favour of all
+the noblest and richest families of Upper Austria, many of the heads
+of which joined their fraternity. The Archdukes of Austria themselves
+highly patronized this Kloster, and freed it from all tolls and taxes;
+and it shortly became so powerful, that it assumed a species of
+jurisdiction over all the other establishments of its order, upon the
+banks of the Danube, as far as Engelhardszell. One of its abbots, in
+1544, played it a scurvy trick. He was a Nürnberger by birth, and named
+Erasmus Villicus. Scarcely had he been raised to this enviable dignity,
+when he took unto himself a wife, and one fine night disappeared with
+the lady, and all the jewels of the Kloster! From that period, a chain
+of misfortunes seems to have attended it. It was twice or thrice
+plundered during the insurrections; nearly burned to the ground in
+1733; suffered in an action between the French and Austrians, in 1742;
+and by an inundation in 1787, when the Danube overflowed its banks to
+the height of full seven fathoms.
+
+After washing the walls of Kloster Willering, the Danube enters another
+beautiful valley, skirted on one side by the dark forests of the
+Kirnberg, and on the other by groves of a lighter green, interspersed
+with cottages and gardens, over which, in the distance, rise the spires
+of Pöstlingberg, announcing to the traveller the vicinity of Linz. On
+the brink of each bank runs a carriage-road, the one on the right being
+the high post-road to Regensburg and Nürnberg, and that on the left
+leading to Ottensheim, Grammetstetten, and Landshag. This beautiful
+valley is the favourite promenade of the Linzers, who flock on a fine
+summer afternoon through the woods on the right bank, to a hunting
+lodge in the Kirnbergerwald, near which stand the ruins of Helfenberg,
+the cradle of the old Counts of Kirnberg; and in the winter go in
+sledges to Willering, and the neighbouring places, to drink wine, beer,
+and coffee, smoke, knit, and hear music.
+
+Having rounded the point of land overlooked by the lofty
+Pöstlingberg,--the city of Linz,--the capital of Upper Austria,--with
+its long wooden bridge, gradually makes its appearance. Beneath the
+rocks on the right bank, stands a long line of houses and chapels, some
+romantically situated in little clefts of the rocks, and surrounded by
+firs and pines. This place is called the Calvarienberg (Mount Calvary),
+and is the scene of numberless processions and religious ceremonies of
+the Catholic inhabitants of Linz.
+
+Linz is a handsome, clean, and cheerful looking city, and the
+inhabitants may be said to partake the good qualities of their
+town. The Linzer women are famed for beauty, if we may believe
+the guide-books, and who would dare to doubt them upon such a
+subject?--honestly, however, I cannot say I remarked any extraordinary
+difference between the lasses of Linz, and their Bavarian neighbours.
+The young females of the lower and middling classes, throughout the
+south of Germany, are in general plump, good-humoured looking girls,
+with florid complexions, large laughing blue eyes, snub noses, and
+light hair. Amongst the nobility and gentry, indeed, are some of the
+loveliest creatures I ever saw, and more resembling our own sweet
+countrywomen than the females of any other nation in Europe. But, as
+honest Cowley says:
+
+      --“Beauty, thou wild fantastic ape,
+      Who dost in every country change thy shape:
+      Here black, there brown, here tawny, and there white,
+      Thou flatterer, who comply’st with every sight:
+      --Who hast no certain what nor where;
+      But vary’st still, and dost thyself declare
+      Inconstant as thy she-professors are!--”
+
+Who shall define thee?--
+
+Amongst the men a very visible alteration in person had taken place,
+even before we arrived at Linz. There appeared to me considerably
+more of the Greek and Italian than the German cast of feature in the
+Austrian countenance. Long aquiline noses, dark eyes and swarthy
+complexions were new objects to me in German faces. Civility, kindness,
+and good humour, however, reigned in the hearts and manners of both
+sexes; and after the gloomy pictures I have seen so frequently drawn
+in England, of the degraded and miserable condition of the people
+of Austria, it was curious enough to mark the content and gaiety
+that, at least, appeared to pervade every class of his Imperial
+Majesty’s subjects. Having tasted nothing since our single cup of
+coffee at Aschach, we hastened to the Golden Lion, the best inn we
+saw upon the Platz, and made a capital breakfast, in an apartment on
+the first floor, fitted up precisely like an English coffee-room,
+the windows commanding a good view of the Platz, which (it being a
+market morning) presented a lively and interesting appearance. It
+is a fine, spacious, oblong square, between eight and nine hundred
+feet in length, and upwards of three hundred broad[41], surrounded on
+three sides by handsome houses built of freestone, (some of these five
+stories high,) and ornamented with a twisted column, surmounted by a
+gilt glory, erected by the Emperor Charles VI., in 1713, in memory
+of a great plague. South of this column, the square was filled with
+market-people and purchasers. The ground was covered with their large
+flat baskets, containing all kinds of provisions. By the side of each
+stood the vendor, in his or her provincial costume; and amongst the
+motley crowd moved the mistresses and maidens of Linz, the former
+dressed “à la Française,” with the exception of short sleeves, and
+long gloves tied above the elbow, a fashion peculiar to Germany; and
+the latter in their little jackets, coloured petticoats, and splendid
+caps of gold brocade, entitled “Linzer hauben,” modelled, one would
+suppose, from the gorgeous crest of a Chinese or golden pheasant.
+Exactly facing our windows was a large house, where, over the _porte
+cochère_, the Austrian Eagle (that “rara avis in terris, nigroque
+simillima _cygno_” _with two necks_) sprawled upon a yellow board,
+all legs and wings, like a bird of prey on a barn door, and under it
+paraded a tall mustachoed Austrian grenadier sentinel, in white and
+black uniform, black gaiters, and portentous bear-skin cap, while half
+a dozen soldiers of other regiments lounged about the gateway of the
+Kaiserlich,--Königlich,--something or other, that I could not exactly
+make out, and added considerably to the picturesque effect of the whole
+scene.
+
+Breakfast over, we repaired to the _polizey_, to reclaim our passports,
+exchanged on landing for a printed paper containing, in German, French,
+and Italian, an injunction, under certain pains and penalties, to
+present yourself to the police, within twenty-four hours after your
+arrival; those secured, we rambled over the town, which has nothing
+particularly worth notice in the way of buildings. There is a tolerably
+handsome church near the post-office, and polizey-direction; in a
+long airy street, (the landstrasse) that runs right out into the
+country; for, unlike continental towns in general, Linz has no gloomy
+gateways or frowning barriers; a light turnpike a little way out of
+the town on the high-road, painted, as they all are in Germany, with
+the colours of the empire or kingdom, and resembling, exceedingly,
+the now nearly exploded barber’s pole, alone indicates the spot where
+the land-traveller must exhibit his passport and pay the little
+weg-geld or road-toll, to an officer stationed for that purpose at a
+neighbouring cottage. A little arch, under which you pass into the
+Platz from the bank of the Danube, is dignified by the name of the
+Wasser-thor; and you are directed to the Haupt-thor, the Schmidt-thor,
+and the Land-haus-thor, as you might in London be directed to Ludgate,
+or to Holborn-bars, but the Thor itself has long vanished. Riesbeck,
+who travelled through Germany in 1780, speaking of Linz, says, “the
+city is open on all sides, and the town and country seem so united,
+that if my spirit of knight errantry would allow it, I would pitch
+my tent, and lay my travelling staff up, here;” and gives honourable
+testimony to “the industry, happiness, and prosperity of the eleven
+thousand inhabitants who dwell in it.” If the late wars have occasioned
+any decrease of its prosperity, they have either not had that effect
+upon its population, or the inhabitants have been singularly fortunate
+in repairing damages, since the peace. Their number is now, by two
+different accounts, estimated at sixteen, and twenty thousand. From
+the Schlossberg, on the west of the city, you have a fine view over
+the Danube and the surrounding country. Upon this rock anciently stood
+the citadel of Linz, in which Richard Cœur de Lion, it is said, was
+feasted as he returned from his long Austrian captivity. The Archduke
+frequently resided here, and Rodolph II. considerably enlarged it. The
+Emperor Ferdinand I. still further enlarged and beautified it. It was
+afterwards converted into barracks, and, finally, into an hospital,
+which was burned down in 1800. Upon its site a commodious workhouse
+has been erected; and the poor now eat their crumbs upon the spot
+where formerly stood “the rich man’s table.” There are many charitable
+establishments[42] and public schools in Linz, as well for Catholics
+as Protestants, and some considerable manufactories, one of which (the
+Imperial and Royal Woollen Cloth Manufactory) is a little town in
+itself.
+
+The Landhaus, the Guildhall of Linz, (or rather, the Government House
+of Upper Austria, where the president and eight counsellors appointed
+for the administration of justice in the country above the Ens,
+hold their sessions,) stands on the promenade, and was originally a
+Franciscan convent, built, in 1287, by Eberhard von Walsee. From a
+window of this building, the shot was fired that mortally wounded the
+rebel captain, Stephen Fadinger. Near the Landhaus is the new theatre.
+The old one was destroyed by the fire in 1800, which reduced to ashes
+the greater part of this quarter of the town. The erection of the
+present building cost ninety-six thousand florins. Under the same roof,
+is the Redouten-Saal, or Assembly Room for masquerades, balls, etc.
+
+The old chroniclers are not agreed as to the origin and foundation
+of Linz. Lazius would trace it to the Roman _Lentium_, or _Lentia_,
+destroyed by the Huns. Bruschius, in his rhyming panegyric, says,
+
+      “Hanc quis condidit primus, quo tempore et anno,
+      Nominis aut hujus quæ sit origo vetus;
+      Vix poterit dici: siquidem Germania fustos
+      Non tantâ scripsit religione suos,
+      Quanta vel Græci fecerunt laude, vel ipsi
+      Ausonii proceres Romuleique patres.”
+
+Under Louis the Child, Linz was known as a toll-place on the Danube,
+and the seat of the Counts of Kirnberg. The last of this family sold,
+according to Lazius, the whole of his dominions to the Markgraves
+of Austria. When the Emperor Frederick II., “the pupil, the enemy,
+and the victim of the church,” was excommunicated by Pope Gregory
+IX. the second time, in 1236, Linz was besieged by the powers of the
+King of Bohemia, the Duke of Bavaria, the Patriarch of Aquileia, and
+the Bishops of Bamberg, Freysingen, and Passau. Frederick, however,
+assisted only by Albert, Count of Pogen, relieved the good city, and
+took one of the church militant, the Bishop of Passau, prisoner. During
+the reign of Rodolph of Hapsburg, Linz was plundered by Henry, Duke of
+Bavaria; and, in 1335, the Emperor Louis the Bavarian here invested
+the Dukes of Austria with Carinthia and the Tyrol, and entered into an
+offensive and defensive alliance, to secure the succession of those
+countries against the pretensions of the King of Bohemia and his
+heirs[43]. In 1481, the whole city was destroyed by fire, with the
+exception of the castle and one street. The Emperor Frederick III.
+caused it to be rebuilt and considerably enlarged, and declared it, in
+1490, the capital of Upper Austria. He bought the village of Urfar,
+till then only inhabited by fishermen, and, flinging a wooden bridge
+over the Danube to it from Linz, it, in a short time, became a kind of
+suburb to the city. On the 19th of August, 1493, Linz lost its imperial
+benefactor. Frederick died in this city, of which he may almost be
+called the founder, at the advanced age of seventy-eight, and after a
+reign of fifty-three years, the longest of any emperor since the days
+of Augustus. He had been afflicted with a cancerous ulcer in his leg.
+As the only means of relief, he submitted to amputation; but, from the
+unskilfulness of the surgeon, and the vitiated state of his blood, a
+second amputation was necessary. He bore these painful operations with
+extreme fortitude, and gave a singular proof of his characteristic
+phlegm. Taking the severed limb in his hand, he said to those who were
+present, “What difference is there between an emperor and a peasant? or
+rather, is not a sound peasant better than a sick emperor? Yet I hope
+to enjoy the greatest good which can happen to man: a happy exit from
+this transitory life.” He seemed to be in a fair state of recovery,
+but his rigid observation of a fast, during which, in opposition to his
+medical attendants, he would take nothing but melons and water, brought
+on a dysentery, which, in his debilitated condition, became fatal.
+I agree with Schultes in thinking that an equestrian statue of this
+benefactor of Linz would be a more handsome and appropriate ornament
+for its principal square, than the column before mentioned. In 1521-2,
+the Archduke Ferdinand, afterwards emperor and founder of the German
+branch of the House of Austria, solemnized, at Linz, his nuptials with
+Anne, Princess of Hungary and Bohemia. Thrice, during the remainder of
+that century, was Linz visited with the awful scourge of pestilence. In
+1620, the whole of Upper Austria was pledged to Bavaria; and, during
+the insurrections as already related, Linz was invested by the peasants
+under Fadinger, and its suburbs were reduced to ashes. Keppler, the
+famous astronomer, who at that time resided in them, lost some valuable
+MSS. in the flames. Linz was thrice stormed during those disturbances.
+In 1741, Linz was taken possession of by the allied French and
+Bavarian army, under Marshal Bellisle and the Elector, and in the three
+unsuccessful struggles of Austria against Napoleon in 1800, 1805, and
+1809, it suffered, in common with other towns upon the Danube, the
+various _mis_fortunes of war.
+
+The wooden bridge across the Danube, I have already said, was first
+built in 1490, but there is mention made of a bridge as early as 1106.
+It is conjectured, however, that it must have been a bridge of boats
+only, as the first regular bridge across to Urfar was certainly that
+thrown over by Ferdinand[44]. A stroll across this bridge, which is
+upwards of one thousand feet in length, through the little town of
+Urfar, (for though it merely looks like the suburb of Linz, it has
+risen to the dignity of a _markt_[45],) and up the steep Pöstlingberg,
+to the church and observatory on its summit, would, no doubt, repay
+any one for the trouble if he could afford the time, as far as an
+extensive and beautiful view goes; but, as my object was to travel
+through Austria, and not merely look over it, as a certain respectable
+personage is said “to look over Lincoln,” nothing but a view being to
+be gained by it, I declined the invitation; and having revictualled our
+bark, for we always dined on board, about twelve o’clock, we
+
+        “All got under weigh,
+      And bude a long adieu to”--
+
+the capital of Upper Austria.
+
+The retrospective view, after we had left Linz about a quarter of a
+mile behind us, was exceedingly beautiful, as beautiful, perhaps, as
+the view on leaving Passau, but of quite a different character. The
+city lay on our left, the beach before it crowded with people, and
+piled with merchandise,--a regiment of infantry marching out of the
+Wasser-thor, drums beating and colours flying; the bridge, alive with
+passengers, stretched across the gulf, from whence the Danube rushed
+panting out, and then spread itself, right and left, like a calm bright
+lake before us. In front, gradually rising from the water’s edge,
+and spotted with the white straggling buildings of the little town of
+Urfar, towered the majestic Pöstlingberg, cultivated to its summit,
+and crowned by its church and observatory. More to the right arose the
+Pfenningberg, equally lofty, and similarly chequered with corn and
+meadow land. Between them, lay a soft green valley, in the bosom of
+which nestled the old village of Magdalena, the spire of its ancient
+church just peeping above the trees. A cloudless deep blue sky formed
+the back ground of this rich and laughing picture, that gladdened the
+heart, and filled it “almost to overflowing” with love and gratitude to
+that ineffable spirit, the Great Architect and
+
+          “Author of this Universe,
+  And all this good to man! For whose well-being,
+  So amply, and with hands so liberal,
+  He hath provided all things.”
+
+Looking forward on our course, a crowd of little villages appeared
+on the left bank of the river, which again meandered amongst woody
+islands, and received, just below a small hamlet called Furth, the
+tiny stream of the Kitzelbach. Farther on, upon the same bank, rose
+the half burned chateau of Steyereck, upon a small hill, in front of
+the forest-covered mountains which again line that side of the river.
+The little market-town of Steyereck is hidden behind the poplars of
+an island close to the shore. Steyereck was formerly a place of some
+commercial importance[46], but the Danube has receded of late years
+considerably from its walls; and the large sand-banks it has left
+behind it, prevents the lading or unlading of vessels, which now
+seek some more fortunate town. A little trouble and expense would,
+it appears, remove the sand, and restore the Danube to its original
+channel, thereby not only greatly benefiting Steyereck, but all the
+surrounding country, which is now, from the new course of the river,
+subjected to continual inundations, disasters that this work would
+greatly diminish in number, if not entirely prevent. No measures have
+as yet, however, been taken to effect this desirable purpose. The
+worthy Austrian would be considerably improved, could a little of the
+persevering industry of the Hollander be infused into his composition.
+Steyereck belonged originally to the monks of Kremsmünster, but,
+as early as 1136, it had fallen into the power of a family named
+Khuenringe, who lorded it over the greater part of the Nordwaldes.
+Albert, of Khuenringe, sold the Castle of Steyereck, in 1280, to
+Ulrich von Kapell, surnamed “The Long,” who, in the famous battle
+of Marchfield, between the Emperor Rudolph I. and Ottocar, King of
+Bohemia, rescued the valiant founder of the House of Hapsburg from a
+gigantic Thuringian knight, named Valens, who had unhorsed and wounded
+him, and, by his courage and exertions, decided the fortune of the day.
+
+      “Terra Rudolphus hostium cinctus globo
+      Multorum, et unus jam pedes vim sustinet.
+      Ulricus alis advolans Capellides,
+      Ceu sæva raptis ursa pro catulis nova
+      Irrumpit acie, ferro iter per inimicos secat,
+      Alio reservat Cæsarem statuens equo, etc.”
+
+               +Calaminus in Rudolpho Ottocaro.+
+
+It remained in the family of the Kapellers till the extinction of the
+male branch in 1409, when the last daughter of that house married
+Heinrich von Lichtenstein. In 1569, one of the Lichtensteins sold
+Steyereck to Christopher Jörger, of Tolleth; and, in 1635, the town and
+castle were given as a dower with Elizabeth Jörger, to David Ungnad,
+Count of Weissenwolf, who built the present chateau. In 1770, the
+lightning fired the building, and a valuable library and collection of
+pictures were utterly consumed.
+
+Nearly facing Steyereck, is the mouth of the green and beautiful river
+Traun, which, rising out of the Grundel-See in the romantic Steyermark,
+flows through the lakes of Hallstädter and Gmünden, and swelled by
+the Ager, the Alben, and the Krems, hurries, foaming under the bridge
+of Ebelsberg, into the Danube. Ebelsberg, or Ebersberg, which lies
+on the right bank of the Traun, and is visible from the Danube, is
+a place of great antiquity[47], and the scene of a desperate battle
+between the French and the Austrians, fought on the 3d of May, 1809.
+General Claparede’s division stormed Ebelsberg from the bridge across
+the Traun, under a tremendous fire of artillery directed against the
+bridge, by the Austrian Field-Marshal Hiller. Claparede succeeded in
+carrying the place, but with dreadful slaughter. Another column of
+French, who had passed the river higher up, upon entering the town,
+revenged the death of their comrades most fearfully upon the Viennese
+volunteers who had so bravely defended it, three hundred of whom were
+burned alive in the castle, the town having taken fire during the
+assault, and the rest cut to pieces, From twelve to sixteen thousand
+men fell in this terrible conflict; and the banks of the Traun, from
+Ebelsberg to the Danube, were literally covered with slain[48].
+
+The Emperor Arnulph gave Ebelsberg, then called Eporesburg, to the
+monks of Kremsmünster, A.D. 893, together with the confiscated
+property of a Count Engelschalk, who carried off the Emperor’s natural
+daughter. Arnulph feigned forgiveness, and luring the Count back from
+Zwentibold, whither he had fled with the Princess, delivered him over
+to the diet at Ratisbon, who condemned him to lose his eyes, and his
+nephew Wilhelm, his head. In the year 900, Count Sighard (whose name
+is handed down to the modern traveller, by the little post town of
+Sighardskirchen, near Vienna) built a castle at Ebelsberg, which was
+destroyed on the defeat of the Germans by the Hungarians in 993. A new
+castle was built shortly afterwards on the same spot, and destroyed by
+Frederick of Austria in 1242, in consequence of the excesses committed
+by Rudiger, Bishop of Passau, who, in conjunction with the Lords of
+a castle at Obernberg on the Inn, kept the whole intervening country
+in a state of terror. It was again rebuilt, and Rodolph of Hapsburg
+defeated here one hundred and twenty knights, previous to his battle
+with Ottocar. In 1586, this third castle was destroyed by fire. Stephen
+Fadinger established his head-quarters here in 1626, and arrested the
+Imperial Commissioners. In the August of that year the peasants were
+defeated at Ebelsberg, with the loss of two thousand men.
+
+Below Steyereck, the left bank alone is hilly; the right resumes the
+flat, sedgy appearance it presented from Regensburg to Straubing.
+Luftenberg, an old place upon the left bank, commanding a fine view
+over the opposite country, is principally remarkable as the spot where
+the fanatical visionary Laimbauer held forth in 1635-36. He entrenched
+himself, with the wretched enthusiasts who followed him, in the church
+of Frankenberg, and after wounding and killing many of the officers
+sent to apprehend him, from its windows, left his disciples to be burnt
+alive. He was, however, taken in his attempt to escape the flames, and
+executed at Linz. The monastery of St. Florian now appeared on our
+right, and shortly afterwards the chateau called Tilly’s Burg. St.
+Florian, to whose honour the monastery was erected, suffered martyrdom
+A.D. 303, at Lorch on the Ens, where, by order of a commander named
+Aquilinus, he was thrown from the bridge into the river, with a stone
+round his neck. His spirit appeared to a matron, and directed her where
+to find and where to bury his body; and over his grave, as the story
+runs, an altar was first erected, then a church, and lastly a kloster.
+Stephen Fadinger had his head-quarters here in 1626.
+
+Tilly’s Burg is a large square building with four towers, and said to
+contain as many windows as there are days in the year, a peculiarity
+attributed to at least a dozen places in England, and I believe
+generally reported of every mansion with more windows than one would
+take the trouble to count. On the spot where this chateau now stands,
+once arose the tower of the castle of Volkerstorf, the seat of one of
+the most ancient and powerful families in Austria. Some warriors of
+that name fought at Constanz as early as 948. In 1146 a Volkerstorf
+accompanied Duke Leopold to the tournament at Zurich. Ortolph von
+Volkerstorf stabbed Henrich Wittigo, secretary to the Emperor Frederick
+II., in the monastery of St. Florian, for which deed he and his brother
+were banished, their property confiscated, and their castle destroyed.
+In the Diet of Augsburg, A.D. 1275, Bernhard von Volkerstorf spoke
+vehemently against Ottocar, King of Bohemia, whom he openly accused
+of attempting to poison his own wife, and of tyrannising over Austria.
+Under the protection of the House of Hapsburg, the Volkerstorfs
+returned to their native country, and rebuilt their castle in 1331. In
+1558 it suffered materially by fire, and the last of the family having
+embraced the Lutheran faith, the whole of his property was confiscated
+in 1620, and the castle given, three years afterwards, by the Emperor
+Ferdinand, to the famous Count Tserclas von Tilly[49]. In 1630-32, he
+built  the present chateau, on the site of the old castle, and in the
+appellation of Tilly’s Burg buried all recollection of the ancient
+Lords of Volkerstorf, whose once dreaded name is now only known to the
+peasant of Austria, as that of a little insignificant village in the
+neighbourhood of Ens. The last female of Tilly’s family, the Countess
+Montfort, sold the Burg in 1730, to the Bavarian Baron von Weichs.
+
+Near Tilly’s Burg is the old village of Kronau, known as early as the
+times of Thassillo, Duke of Bavaria, by the name of Kranesdorf, and
+on the left bank lie Hof-im-Schlag, Himberg, Auwinden, St. Georgen,
+and two or three other small places, remarkable only for their great
+antiquity. To the north of St. Georgen lies Frankenstein, where the
+miserable followers of Laimbauer met their horrible fate.
+
+We now approached the old square tower of Spielberg, which, together
+with the steeples of the city of Ens, we had for some time seen in the
+distance, backed by the glittering and rugged line of the Styrian Alps.
+The ruin of Spielberg stands upon an Island near the right bank of
+the Danube, and just in the angle formed by the stream, which, having
+stretched away boldly to the south-east, here turns sharply off to the
+north, and washes the walls of the market town of Mauthausen, which is
+seen through a vista of islands at the extremity of a distant point
+of land. Spielberg is admirably situated for a Raub-schloss, which
+was of course its original character. Otto and Eckbert von Spielberg
+were slain in Frederick Barbarossa’s Italian expedition, A.D. 1156,
+and one Dittmar von Spielberg was present at the siege of Milan in
+1158. In 1328, the family of Spielberg became extinct, the last of
+that name, Eberhard, having previously sold the city and castle of
+Ens to the Emperor Rudolph I., for six hundred marks. Reinprecht von
+Walsee possessed Spielberg in 1329, and after passing through several
+hands, it finally formed part of the dower brought by the Countess
+of Weissenwolf to her husband in 1635. There is a small fall of the
+river here, which was at one time considered dangerous by the timid
+boatmen on the Danube, and has been confounded by some writers with
+the celebrated Strudel, probably from one of the names given to it
+by the schiffers, viz. Der Saurüssel[50]. It is also called by some,
+the Neubruch: small boats seldom venture through it, though a slight
+tossing would, I should imagine, be the only consequence. My companion
+and I often laughed, to think how a smart English six-oared cutter
+would astonish the natives here, who are certainly the clumsiest and
+most fearful navigators in Europe. Mauthausen is said by the boatmen to
+be half of Aschach, which, carried away by an inundation of the Danube,
+floated with the current down to this spot,--a strange tradition, which
+it is supposed has arisen from a fancied resemblance between the two
+towns. Howsoever it came, it stands in a very pleasant situation,
+directly opposite to the mouth of the Ens, and looking up that river
+upon the city of Ens, and the far-distant peaks and glaciers of the
+Styrian Alps. There was a bridge of boats here in 1809, but it was
+destroyed by the Bavarians. The neighbouring tower of Pragstein was
+occupied by the French in 1742. Mauthausen suffered severely in the war
+between Rudolph and Matthias, and in the insurrections during the reign
+of Ferdinand. There is a woollen-stocking and a leather manufactory
+here, a dye-house of some celebrity, and a salt-market, from whence the
+greater part of Bohemia is supplied.
+
+The city of Ens is supposed to have been originally constructed out
+of the ruins of the Roman Lorch, (indifferently called Laureacum,
+Lavoriacum, Blaboriacum, Loriacte,) the station of the second Italian
+legion, upon the site of which is still a little village of the name.
+Ammianus Marcellinus is the oldest historian who makes mention of
+Laureacum. Bruschius, Hansiz, and Aventine assert, that Lorch was
+destroyed by Attila, on his march to Gaul; but the biographer of St.
+Severin states, that two years after the passage of Attila, that holy
+person arrived at Lorch from the neighbourhood of Vienna, and found it
+flourishing, and a Christian priest established therein. The Huns might
+have taken the left bank of the Danube, particularly as it was their
+nearest road. From an inscription on the walls of Ens, it would appear
+that two of the holy Evangelists themselves took the city under their
+especial protection, and converted the people to Christianity[51].
+
+St. Peter himself is also said to have preached the gospel here in
+the year 49. In 454, Lorch is reported to have been preserved by the
+prayers of St. Severin, but was afterwards destroyed by the Barbarians,
+according to his own prediction in 737, when Bibilo, bishop of Lorch,
+fled with his monks to Passau, as I have already mentioned in my
+notice of that city. The authentic history of Ens, however, commences
+during the reign of Charlemagne, when that Emperor, aware of the
+importance of such a situation, pitched his tents at the mouth of
+the Ens, which formed at that time the line of demarcation between
+Bavaria and the lands of the Avars or Huns of Pannonia, that people
+having, during the sixth and seventh centuries, “spread their permanent
+dominion from the foot of the Alps to the sea-coast of the Euxine[52].”
+Here, on the 5th of September, 791, he encamped, and, after fasting
+and praying for three days, proceeded on his expedition. The troops on
+the left bank of the Danube were commanded by the Counts Thederich and
+Meginfried; those on the right by the Emperor in person; and between
+the two hosts upon the river floated a third body, with provisions
+and necessaries for the whole army. In fifty-two days he penetrated
+to the river Rab, destroying the rings or wooden fortifications of
+the Avars, the first of which he found upon the Riederberge, by Tuln;
+and would have carried his victorious arms still farther, had not a
+contagious disorder killed nearly all his horses. In 805, we still hear
+of Lorch, which, under the names of Lorahha and Loracha, is designated
+as a villa regia, and mention is made of its market-place and of an
+imperial judge, one Warner or Warnhar. After the death of Arnulph
+the Bastard, the Hungarians burst into the country, and devastated
+it beyond the Ens. The Bavarians rallied, and beat them back; and
+Leopold, then Grenz-graf, or Count of the frontier, in the year 900,
+slew upwards of 3000 of them on the left bank of the Danube. In the
+same year, as a stronger check to their inroads, he erected on the Ens
+a strong fortress[53] which he called Ensburg (Anasiburgum.) Buildings
+gradually rose around it; and in proportion as the old Roman city of
+Laureacum declined, its rival prospered, till their names  became
+confounded, and that of the new city predominating, a small village,
+probably on the actual site of the Roman town, alone retains the
+ancient appellation of Lorch. Richar, bishop of Passau, persuaded Louis
+the Child, that the fortress of Ensburg stood upon ground belonging
+to the monastery of St. Florian, and it was consequently ceded by the
+sovereign to that establishment. The Hungarians snatched it from its
+holy possessors in 907, when they defeated Louis, and slew the valiant
+markgraf Leopold, brother-in-law to Carloman, the bishops of Salzburg,
+Freysing, and Seben, three abbots, and nineteen counts. Leopold’s son,
+Arnulf, defeated the Barbarians on the Inn, in 912, and Conrad I.
+bribed them back over the frontiers in 918. After Arnulf’s death, the
+Barbarians again invaded Bavaria, but were ultimately, at the close
+of the tenth century, driven out of the country by the Markgraves,
+Leopold the Babenberger, and Burkhard, who carried the war into the
+enemy’s territories as far as Krems and Mölk. In a deed of the time
+of Otho II., Ensburg is still spoken of as distinct from Lorch or
+Lorach, and mention is made in the same deed of the church of St.
+Laurentius, situated without the walls of Lorch. Now there is a church
+of St. Laurence standing to this day, within ten minutes’ walk of the
+city of Ens; and though it was built as late as the time of Maximilian
+I., it is not improbable that it stands upon the site of the ancient
+edifice[54]. In the important deeds by which Ottocar VI. made over the
+steyermark to Leopold of Austria, Ens is called by one party a markt,
+and by the other a village; and it is asserted by some writers that Ens
+was first made a fortified town by Leopold, who built its walls with
+the ransom of Richard Cœur de Lion![55] However this may be, and if
+true, it is a very interesting circumstance, Ens certainly dates its
+existence as a city from somewhere about this period, as, at the close
+of the twelfth century, the Enser-fair was almost as much celebrated in
+Germany as that of Leipzig is at present. Rudolph of Hapsburg received
+the keys of Ens from the hands of a lord of Sumerau, and afterwards
+bought the city, for six hundred marks, of Eberhard von Spielberg.
+
+Duke Albert the Lame concluded here, in 1336, the peace with John, king
+of Bohemia, which gave Carinthia to Austria, and the Tyrol to Charles,
+the son of that monarch, afterwards Charles IV. The victorious army of
+Matthias Corvinus, king of Hungary, penetrated as far as Ens during
+the war with the Emperor Frederick III., and in 1532, the Turks, who
+had burst into Hungary and Austria, headed by the Sultan himself,
+pushed forward some troops to the walls of this city, between whom and
+the burghers a desperate conflict took place upon the bridge. In the
+insurrections of 1624, Stephen Fadinger summoned the town, and another
+rebel-chief, named Wurm, cannonaded it, but it stood out against
+both till relieved by Colonel Löbel, who defeated the peasants, and
+burned their camp. In 1683, while Cara Mustapha lay before Vienna,
+several flying parties of the Turks scoured the country around Ens, and
+penetrated nearly to Linz. On the 4th of May, 1809, Napoleon had his
+headquarters here, and received a deputation from the townspeople of
+Mauthausen, which place he had threatened with bombardment.
+
+In the centre of the Platz stands a tall bell or clock tower built by
+Maximilian I. Some years ago a rib-bone was shown in it as that of
+a giant. It had most probably formed part of the stock in trade of
+an elephant, and was thought sufficiently curious to be removed to
+Cuvier’s museum in Paris. Many Roman antiquities have been discovered
+in Ens and its vicinity; some gold coins of the Emperor Probus, several
+marble busts, and inscribed stones. Some of the latter are still to be
+seen in the old Burg of Enseck.
+
+Two large stone coffins without any inscription were dug out of the
+Aichberg, a short distance from the town, in 1808. Some monumental
+busts were also found, but they had been cut out of very bad sandstone,
+and were much injured by time.
+
+
+                        FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER V.)
+
+[40] Our language is sadly off for feminine terminations. The German,
+brauerinn, köchinn, gartnerinn, etc. are most badly translated by
+female brewer, cook-maid, and woman gardener.
+
+
+[41] The old rhyming chronicler, Bruschius, says,
+
+      “Passibus in longum patet area tota trecentis,
+      In latum centum passibus atque decem.”
+
+[42] A tailor of Linz, named Kellerer, established an asylum for thirty
+orphans; and in 1734, another tradesman, named Adam Pruner, bequeathed
+one hundred and eighty-one thousand florins to the poor of the town,
+the interest of which supports twenty-seven children, twenty-seven men,
+and twenty-seven women. The Emperor Joseph II. and the Empress Maria
+Theresa have also founded charities here.
+
+[43] The Dukes of Austria were afterwards compelled to cede the Tyrol,
+but Carinthia has ever since that period continued in the possession of
+their House. Coxe’s Hist. i. 155, Pelzel, Schmidt, Struvius, etc.
+
+[44] Bruschius tells us of a capuchin, named Waltherus,
+
+      “Qui nondum vinclis conjunctum aut pontibus Istrum
+      Emensus sicco dicitur esse pede.”
+
+Perhaps the river was frozen at that time.
+
+[45] In the campaign of 1809, damage was done in this little town alone
+to the amount of 1,326,621 florins.
+
+[46] Steyereck was once famous for its potteries; but the manufactories
+have fallen to decay, notwithstanding the fine clay which is still to
+be found in its neighbourhood.
+
+[47] In 1787, a stone coffin was dug up in the neighbourhood of
+Ebelsberg, five feet long, and one foot two inches wide. On the breast
+of the skeleton within lay a golden ring, of rather an oval shape, and
+rude workmanship; at its feet was a drinking glass, which had contained
+some clear liquid, but it was unfortunately broken, and the liquid
+spilt, in the opening of the coffin. Vide _Kurz’ Beträge_, 3 Th. S.
+xvii.
+
+[48] General Jominy gives the following account of this sanguinary
+affair, in his Political and Military Life of Napoleon. “Hiller had
+abandoned the barrier of the Inn without fighting, but he resolved
+to defend the passage of the Traun at the formidable position of
+Ebersberg. A wooden bridge, thirty fathoms long, presented a more
+fearful obstacle than that of Lodi, it being terminated by a walled
+town, commanded by a castle, and crowned by heights of very difficult
+access. To cross this bridge, in the face of thirty thousand men
+and eighty pieces of cannon, was not an easy matter. Massena was
+not ignorant of Napoleon’s intention to turn this impregnable post
+by Lambach, but the impetuous valour of General Cohorn hurried him
+into a sanguinary enterprise. Three Austrian battalions, that had
+been imprudently left in front of the bridge, were overthrown, and
+driven, at the point of the sword, to the gates of the town, which
+were closed against them. Cohorn forced the gates, and penetrated
+into the principal street. Massena supported him first by the rest
+of Claparede’s division, and then by that of Legrand. A desperate
+conflict was kept up from street to street, and from house to house.
+Claparede had just possessed himself of the castle, when Hiller threw
+four fresh columns into the town, who opened themselves a passage with
+the bayonet. A horrible slaughter ensued; several houses took fire that
+were filled with wounded and with combatants, whom the crowded state
+of the streets prevented from escaping. War never presented a more
+cruel scene. At length, tired with carnage, the Austrians abandoned
+Ebersberg, and our troops debouched against the heights, where a still
+more unequal combat commenced. The arrival of Durosnel’s division of
+cavalry by the right bank, and the certainty that his position would
+be turned by Lannes, decided Hiller at length to fall back with all
+speed upon Enns.... This vigorous blow was still more honourable to
+the French troops, as the greater part engaged in this business was
+composed of soldiers who had never before seen a battle. It cost Hiller
+from six to seven thousand men. We had to regret the loss of from four
+to five thousand brave fellows, a great number of whom had fallen a
+prey to the flames.”--_Vie Politique et Militaire de Napoléon._ 8vo.
+Paris, 1827, tom. iii. pp. 181-3.
+
+[49] This extraordinary man, the founder of the Bavarian army, and the
+terror of the Protestants, used to boast before the battle of Leipsig,
+of three things--viz. That he had never known woman, never been drunk,
+and never lost a battle. “His strange and terrific aspect,” says
+Schiller, “was in unison with his character. Of low stature, thin,
+with hollow cheeks, a long nose, a broad and wrinkled forehead, large
+whiskers, and a pointed chin, he was generally attired in a Spanish
+doublet of green with slashed sleeves, with a small and peaked hat on
+his head, surmounted by a red feather, which hung down his back. His
+whole aspect recalled to recollection the Duke of Alba, the scourge of
+the Flemings, and his actions were by no means calculated to remove the
+impression.”--_Thirty Years’ War_, book ii. The author of L’Histoire de
+Gustave Adolphe gives a similar account of his dress and person, and
+adds, that the Maréchal de Grammont, going to see him out of curiosity,
+met him at the head of his army, attired as described, and mounted
+on a little grey hackney, with one pistol only at his saddle-bow.
+“Lorsque le Maréchal s’approcha pour lui faire la révérence, Tilly,
+croyant remarquer qu’il s’étonnoit de le voir dans cet équipage, lui
+dit, Monsieur, vous trouvez peut--être mon habillement extraordinaire;
+j’avoue qu’il n’est pas tout à fait conforme à la mode de France, mais
+il est a mon gré, et cela me suffit. Je pense aussi que ma haquenée, et
+ce pistolet tout seul, vous surprennent pour le moins autant que mon
+accoûtrement; pour que vous n’ayiez pas mauvaise opinion du Comte de
+Tilly, à qui vous faites l’honneur de rendre une visite de curiosité,
+je vous dirai que j’ai gagné sept batailles décisives, sans avoir été
+obligé de tirer une seule fois le pistolet que vous voyez là; et mon
+petit cheval ne m’a jamais abandonné et n’a jamais balancé à faire son
+devoir.”--p. 173.
+
+[50] There being a place so called in the vicinity of the Strudel.
+
+[51]
+      “Zu Enns St. Marx und Lucas lehrt
+      Das volck zu Christi Glaub bekehrt.
+        Hie ward versenkt St. Florian
+        In D’Enns der edle Rittersmann,
+      Maximilian da Bischoff war,
+      Mild gegen Armen immerdar;
+        Diess langt zu sondern Ruhm der Stadt
+        Die Gott also begnadet hat.”
+
+[52] Gibbon, when speaking of this expedition, calls it “the triple
+effort of a French army that was poured into their (the Avars’)
+country, by land and water, through the Carpathian mountains, and along
+the plain of the Danube.” _Decline and Fall_, vol. ix. p. 184.
+
+[53] This building is still standing in the north-east quarter of the
+city. It is now the property of Baron Rumeskirchen.
+
+[54] In the Niebelunglied, which was compiled about this period, we
+find Ens mentioned, by its present name, as one of the places visited
+by Chrimhilt, on her journey into Hungary.
+
+        “Da sie uber die Traun kamen, bey _Ense_ auf das feld.”
+
+[55] According to an old German writer quoted by Schultes, Ens was a
+walled city as early as the year 900, and already of some consequence.
+“Bavari citissime in id ipsum tempus (+A.D.+ 900) pro tuitioni illorum
+regni validissimam urbem in littore Anesi fluminis muro obposuerunt.”
+But, in this case, why is it called a village by Leopold, in the
+twelfth century?
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+ Nieder-Walsee--Castles of Clam and Kreuzen--Ardagger--Grein--The
+ Strudel and the Wirbel--Mistakes of various Authors concerning
+ them--St. Nikola--Sarblingstein--Freystein--Hirschau--The
+ Isper--Bösenbeug--Story of Bishop Bruno and the Lady
+ Richlita--Ips--Gottsdorf.
+
+
+After washing the walls of Ens, the river from which it takes its name
+hurries through several channels, into the Danube. In the time of
+Charlemagne it divided Bavaria from the lands of the Avars or Huns of
+Pannonia.
+
+    --“Ad fluvium venit Anasum
+       Qui medius Bajvarios sejunxit et Hunnos.”
+
+                  Saxo Poeta. T. II. p. 155.
+
+From the point of its confluence with the Danube, the latter is
+again studded with islands, sandbanks and sunken rocks as far as
+Nieder-Walsee; and the history of the small market towns and villages
+upon its flat banks, is as uninteresting as their appearance. On the
+left, below the village of Nieder-Sebing, the little river Aust,
+formerly the boundary between the Slavi and the Bohemians, flows round
+an island, formed in its mouth, into the Danube; and on the right,
+above the rippling Erla-bach, stands Erla-Kloster, a convent founded by
+Otto of Machland in the tenth century, and suppressed by the Emperor
+Joseph II. Our old steersman had been for some time complaining of
+illness, and now lay groaning upon some straw, having given up the
+paddle, by which the boat was steered, to the care of a lad who had
+joined us at Linz in the place of his son, an exchange which we had
+protested against at the time, as it was arranged at Ratisbon, that
+the same people should row us the whole way to Vienna, and the father
+and son were evidently the only persons who knew anything about the
+navigation of the river. The old man growing apparently worse every
+moment, we looked rather anxiously about for a place where we could
+land, and obtain some assistance, but none presented itself before our
+arrival, in sight of Nieder-Walsee; and therefore, although a mere
+group of huts, above which arose the old wall and curious tower of the
+Schloss, promised little in the way of accommodation, we determined to
+land there, and see what could be done to set our poor pilot on his
+legs again. Nieder-Walsee stands perched upon a rocky point of land,
+on the right bank of the Danube, and behind it the mountains again
+rear their forest-clothed heads. Upon the summit of one of the nearest
+stands Strengberg, a post station, through which the high road runs
+to Vienna, and from whence we enjoyed a splendid view of the Danube
+on our return by land to Linz. The castle of Nieder-Walsee was built
+by the same Eberhard, who erected Ober-Walsee on the Klausberg near
+Aschach, and stands on the site of the old castle of Sumerau, After
+the death of Reinprecht von Walsee in 1483, the castle was bought and
+sold, pledged and redeemed, by various families, till, in the Seven
+Years’ war, it became the property of the famous Field-marshal Daun,
+from one of whose descendants it was bought in 1810, by Count Wimpfer.
+A strong current runs round the point, and few boats, except those
+belonging to the inhabitants, approach the shore at this place, as
+there is considerable difficulty in getting back into the main stream,
+out of which one is aground every two minutes upon the gravelly
+shoals that rise in all directions in this part of the Danube, and can
+only be avoided by keeping in the middle of what the boatmen call the
+_Graben_ (the trench or channel) of the river. Not aware, however,
+of this circumstance, and anxious to alleviate the sufferings of the
+old steersman, we directed his locum tenens to run into the shore, a
+business that was speedily effected, for we had no sooner come within
+the influence of the current, than round went the head of the boat, and
+in a few seconds we were brushing the bushes that hung over the steep
+bank, and hurried along it far beyond the proper landing-place. Two
+unfortunate discoveries were made together. The offer of a dram to the
+steersman cleared up the mystery of his malady. He had had a few too
+many already, and had laid down in the boat for the most excellent of
+all reasons, his inability to stand; our second discovery was equally
+annoying. We had got out of the stream, and the only person who was
+capable of getting us cleverly back into it was hors de combat. The
+rest of the crew knew as little about the matter as ourselves. As
+soon as we had escaped one current we found ourselves in the power of
+another, and with such force was the heavy, flat-bottomed punt we were
+in driven upon the shoals, that, with all the strength we could muster
+amongst us, we were sometimes ten minutes or a quarter of an hour
+before we could get her afloat again; and when we had at last effected
+it, round she spun, and there was her stern as fast as a church within
+a dozen yards of the spot where her head had been similarly situated
+two minutes before. At least an hour and a half was lost in this
+amusing exercise, during which we had the gratification of seeing the
+regular packet-boat that we had gotten the start of at Aschach, pass
+us far to the left, and, steering clear of all obstacles, vanish into
+the valley which opened between the wooded mountains in the distance.
+At last, when our strength, our patience, and the reproaches we poured
+rather unceremoniously on our drunken steersman were just exhausted,
+and we had begun to calculate upon the probability of passing the
+afternoon and evening at least upon the shoals, we found ourselves
+by accident, but to our unspeakable satisfaction, once more impelled
+forwards by a gentle and properly behaved current, which promised, in
+the course of time, to lead us into the stream we had in evil hour
+deserted.
+
+On the left bank of the Danube below Nieder-Walsee, stand the village
+of Saxen, and the Castles of Clam and Kreuzen. Saxen is mentioned as
+early as 823, in which year Louis the Debonair gave to Reginhard,
+Bishop of Passau, two churches at “Saxina in terra Hunnorum.” The
+towers of Clam rise above a forest of pines a little behind Saxen. It
+was anciently the seat of the Lords of Machland. The brother of Otto of
+Machland, who founded the kloster of Baumgartenberg, was the first of
+the family who signed himself “Chlamme,” A.D. 1156. On the extinction
+of the family of Machland, this Burg came to the Preuschenks, and in
+1487, the troops of Matthias Corvinus besieged and took it. The family
+of Perger bought it in 1524, enlarged it in 1636, and took the title
+of Barons and afterwards of Counts of Clamm. The great white castle
+of Kreuzen, far away upon the summit of a hill to the north-west,
+also belonged to the Lords of Machland, and in the twelfth century
+was called Croucen and Chrutzen. In 1334, it came to the celebrated
+Volkerstorfs, The Counts of Meggar bought it in 1523, and when the
+Turks were devastating Upper Austria in 1526, its walls were filled
+with fugitives of all ranks and ages. In 1701, it was bought by a
+Count Cavariani, who sold it again almost immediately to the Count
+of Salburg. The market-town of Ardagger, upon the right bank, was
+given by Charlemagne to the bishopric of Passau. The Emperor Conrad
+III., when setting out on his unfortunate crusade, landed here on the
+29th of May, 1147, to make the necessary preparation for passing with
+his fleet the then much-dreaded Strudel and Wirbel. Seventy thousand
+knights, completely armed, an equal number of foot-soldiers, a troop of
+females “in the armour and attitude of men,” the chief of whom, from
+her gilt spurs and buskins, obtained the epithet of “The golden-footed
+dame[56]”, passed down the Danube under the banners of Conrad. Two
+years afterwards, a few boats, principally filled with priests who
+had followed the army, returned to these shores; all that treachery,
+battle, and disease had left of the mighty host that had so lately
+marched in full confidence to the conquest of Asia!
+
+A sudden bend of the river near this spot, brought us again amongst
+the mountains, and in a moment we seemed shut out from the world by
+the craggy barriers that rose on each side of us,--the counterparts of
+those I have attempted to describe in the wild gorge of the Schlägen.
+After passing a few lonely huts, perched here and there amongst the
+masses of rock and forest, the chateau and town of Grein started at
+once into view, on turning a sharp and craggy point, cradled amongst
+the precipices which, opening behind the town, form a vista, terminated
+by the castle of Kreuzen on its distant hill. Grein is one of the
+poorest and smallest towns in Upper Austria, and the chateau is a
+large, gloomy building, originally built by Heinrich von Chreine, in
+the twelfth century. Frederick the Handsome, Duke of Austria, pledged
+Grein for five hundred and sixty-two silver pfennige, to Albert von
+Volkerstorf, May 14th, 1308. The valiant Bernhard von Scherffenberg
+beat the Bohemians here twice, during the fifteenth century; at the
+close of which it was bought of the Emperor Maximilian by one of the
+family of Prueschenk. Heinrich von Prueschenk rebuilt the chateau, and
+from this circumstance it received the name of Heinrichsburg.
+
+The traveller now approaches the most extraordinary scene on the long
+Danube, from its source in the Black Forest, to its mouth in the Black
+Sea. As soon as a bend of the river has shut out the view of Grein and
+its chateau, a mass of rock and castle, scarcely distinguishable from
+each other, appears to rise in the middle of the stream before you. The
+flood roars and rushes round each side of it; and ere you can perceive
+which way the boat will take, it dashes down a slight fall to the
+left, struggles awhile with the waves, and then sweeps round between
+two crags, on which are the fragments of old square towers, with
+crucifixes planted before them. It has scarcely righted itself from
+this first shock, when it is borne rapidly forward towards an immense
+block of stone, on which stands a third tower, till now hidden by the
+others, and having at its foot a dangerous eddy. The boat flashes like
+lightning through the tossing waves, within a few feet of the vortex,
+and comes immediately into still water, leaving the passenger who
+beholds this scene for the first time, mute with wonder and admiration.
+These are the Scylla and Charybdis of the Danube, the celebrated
+Strudel and Wirbel. The passage is made in little more than the time
+it takes to read the above brief description, and I could scarcely
+scratch down the outlines of these curious crags and ruins, before
+I was whirled to some distance beyond them. I must beg my reader,
+however, to return with me, and repass them more leisurely, than the
+impatient stream would permit us. The Danube, checked in its northern
+course at Grein, and driven unwillingly towards the east, vents its
+fury against the opposing crags on the left bank, and having broken
+down part of the barrier, rides over the ruins in triumph, forming what
+is called, by the boatmen, the Grein-Schwall. After this ebullition of
+anger, the stream appears to sink into sullen indifference, and slowly
+and silently pursues its way through a gloomy gorge of precipices, that
+rise higher and higher on each side of it, till it arrives within a few
+yards of the Wörthinsel, an island, about four hundred fathoms long,
+and two hundred broad, surrounded by sand-banks on all sides except
+the north, where a perpendicular crag starts up, bearing on its crest
+the ruins of the Wöther-Schloss, or Castle of Werfenstein[57]. From
+ this island to the rocky shores of the Danube, which here open and
+form a kind of circle around it, run several chains of crags beneath
+the water; some indeed peering above it, over and through which the
+stream rushes right and left, with considerable violence and uproar.
+The right arm is called the Hössgang, and is only passable when the
+water is very high, by the smallest and lightest craft. The main body
+hurries round the northern or left side of the island, and boiling
+over the first chain of rocks, falls through three separate channels,
+a depth of three feet in a distance of four hundred and eighty. This
+fall is called the Strudel; but the boatmen have a name for each
+channel, and call that one in particular the Strudel which is nearest
+to the north shore of the island: the centre channel is called the
+Wildriss; and the third, nearest the main bank, the Waldwasser[58]. The
+three principal crags which, standing in the entrance of these three
+channels, form part of the bank or bar, over which the water falls into
+them, have also their particular names; that in the entrance to the
+Strudel is called the Bomben-Gehäkel, or Buma-G’hachelt; the next, the
+Wildriss-Gehäkel, and the third, the Wald-Gehäkel,--the term Gehäkel
+or G’hachelt distinguishing the crags, the points of which generally
+appear above the surface, from those which lie beneath it, and which
+are called Kogeln or Kugeln. There are nearly a dozen of these Kogeln
+in the passage of the Strudel, the principal of which are named the
+Marchkugel, the Wolfskugel, and the Maisenkugel; and one, from its
+particular formation, the Dreyspitze. These lie in various directions,
+in the entrance and middle of the channels. At the outlet of the
+Wildriss there is a reef of rock called the Ross, the principal crag in
+which is named the Rosskopf; another reef, called the Felsengelander,
+lies at the end of the Waldwasser, beside which are two rocks called
+the Keller and the Hute. Some of these, at low water, are not more than
+two feet beneath the surface, and impassable, of course, by a boat of
+any size or burden.
+
+It may easily be supposed that a stream like the Danube does not flow
+very quietly over so rugged a bed, and though considerable masses of
+rock have been blown up, and the channels otherwise much widened and
+deepened within the last fifty years, there are still obstacles enough
+to fret and agitate the river to a degree which gives at least an
+appearance of danger to the passage, if even there be not a little in
+reality. At the end of the fall, or Strudel, on the left, and of the
+Hössgang on the right, the rocky shores again approach each other, and
+the river, uniting its currents, sweeps rapidly round to the north
+beneath a jutting crag, upon which stands the ruins of the castle of
+Struden, and washes the walls of the little town of the same name. The
+castle belonged anciently to the lords of Machland, and after them to
+the Archdukes of Austria. In 1413, the Archdukes Leopold and Ernest
+gave the “Feste haus ze Struden” to one Hans Greisenecker, who already
+possessed the Castle of Werfenstein, for “a consideration;” and in
+1493, the brothers Heinrich and Sigmund Prueschenk bought both castles
+from the House of Austria, to which they had reverted.
+
+About a thousand yards below Struden, but near the right bank of the
+river, rises the large block of stone called the Hausstein, upon
+which are the ruins of the tower of the same name; round the southern
+side of this block struggles a small arm of the Danube, called the
+Lueg, and navigable like the Hössgang, when the water is very high,
+by small boats only. On the northern side is the celebrated whirlpool
+(Der Wirbel), formed most probably by the violence with which the
+two currents of the Danube are hurled against each other on leaving
+the Wörthinsel, and again checked and divided by the Hausstein. This
+whirlpool measures sometimes nearly fifty feet in diameter; but when
+we passed it, it did not, I should think, exceed fifteen. In the
+centre the water forms a perfect funnel, and a large branch of fir was
+whirling round and round in it, as if some invisible hand were stirring
+the natural cauldron, and making it “boil and bubble.” All sorts of
+extravagant stories have of course been circulated respecting this
+dreaded vortex, which is gravely affirmed by some of the old writers to
+have no bottom. Munster, in his Kosmographie, printed at Basle in 1567,
+says, “They have often sounded in this place, but the abyss is so deep
+that they can touch no ground. It is bottomless. What falls therein,
+remains under and never comes up again.”--b. III. sam. 965. This writer
+also confounds the Strudel with the Wirbel.[59]
+
+Father Kircher vows there is a hole underneath the Wirbel, which sucks
+in the waters of the Danube, and a subterranean channel connected with
+it, by which the said water is conveyed into Hungary, where it rises
+again, and forms the Plattensee or Lake of Balaton! Others claim the
+same origin for the Lake of Neusiedle[60], and to clinch the fable,
+which is still reverently believed by the Hungarians, assert, that a
+travelling cooper, who lost some of his tools in the Wirbel, absolutely
+found them again floating on the surface of the Neusiedler-see.
+
+Happelius, as in support of this hypothesis, says, “it is well known
+that the Danube loses a considerable quantity of its waters in the
+Wirbel, so that its flood is of much less consequence from that spot
+down to Vienna,” a falsehood which a glance at the river is capable at
+once of refuting.
+
+There can be no doubt that, in earlier ages, there must have been
+considerable danger in passing these falls and eddies;  and even now,
+when the water is low, an inexperienced or careless steersman might
+easily get the bottom of his boat knocked out in the Strudel, or its
+side staved in by the crags of the Hausstein, under either of which
+circumstances the passengers would stand a very fair chance of being
+drowned. I cannot help thinking our own rather a narrow escape, for
+my readers will recollect that, on leaving Nieder-Walsee, our worthy
+pilot was lying dead drunk in the stern of the boat. To our utter
+astonishment, however, upon approaching the Grein-Schwall, he managed
+to get upon his legs, and, as if sobered for the moment by a sudden
+sense of his own situation, snatched the rudder from the boy (who in
+a few minutes would certainly have had us upon the rocks), steered us
+manfully and cleverly through the Strudel and Wirbel, and then flung
+himself down again on his straw as drunk and insensible as before. Had
+we been aware of the vicinity of these places, we should certainly have
+taken a pilot on board at Ardagger, but we had no idea we were so near
+them, and the poor fellows who rowed us were altogether ignorant of
+the river, and merely working their way to Vienna. The passage was,
+however, made before we had time to think of our danger, almost indeed
+before we knew where we were; and absorbed in contemplation of the
+romantic beauty of the scene, nothing short of absolute foundering
+could, I believe, have distracted our attention from it. Riesbeck,
+after a brief description of this spot, says, “a great variety of
+circumstances concur to excite an idea of danger in both these parts of
+the Danube. Low mechanics are fond of speaking of them, and magnifying
+the danger, that they may increase their own importance in having gone
+through it. Others, more simple, who come to the place with strong
+conceits of what they are to meet with there, are so struck with the
+wildness of the prospect, and the roaring of the water, that they begin
+to quake and tremble before they have seen any thing. But the masters
+of the vessels are those who most effectually keep up the imposition.
+They make the passage a pretence for raising the price of the freight,
+and when you are past them the steersman goes round with his hat in
+his hand to collect money from the passengers as a reward for having
+conducted them safely through such perilous spots. When our master (who
+yet very well knew how much it was for his interest to keep up the
+credit of his monsters) saw how little attention I paid to them, he
+assured me in confidence that _during the twenty years he had sailed
+the Danube, he had not heard of a single accident_.” This account was
+written in 1780, and yet only three years before, (on the 31st of
+October 1777,) two vessels struck, one on the Wolfs-Kugel, and the
+other on the Maisenkugel, and went to pieces. In 1749, a Schiffmeister
+of Passau, named Freidenberger, perished with his daughter in the
+whirlpool, and another Schiffmeister, Martin Beyerl, of Vienna, was
+drowned in it, at the commencement of the century.
+
+The danger has certainly, however, been much diminished by the
+exertions of the Austrian government, which, besides having
+considerably widened and deepened the channels of the Strudel and
+Hössgang, by blowing up the rocks and removing the sand, has instituted
+sundry prudent regulations respecting the navigation of this part of
+the Danube. All boats ascending the river when the water is only of a
+certain height, are obliged to stop at the little town of Struden till
+information is sent to Grein and the Saurüssel, at both which places a
+flag is immediately hoisted to give notice to any vessels descending
+the stream, that one is coming up through the Strudel, and so prevent
+the collision that would be likely to take place should they attempt
+to pass it in contrary directions at the same time, the descending
+vessel being compelled, under a heavy penalty, to lay to, above the
+rock called the Rabenstein, till the other has passed. Also when the
+water is of a sufficient height to enable the ascending boats to pass
+through the southern channels of the Lueg and the Hössgang, the horses
+keep the towing-path on the right bank from Ips to Wiessen, a small
+place facing Grein. But when the water is low, the horses are ferried
+three times across the river in the short distance of 1200 yards; first
+below the Wirbel, from the right bank over to the left; then from the
+town of Struden to the Wörthinsel; and lastly, from the western end of
+that island over the Hössgang, back again to the right bank, under the
+Rabenstein.
+
+As soon as you have passed the Wirbel, a boat puts off from the little
+town of St. Nikola on the left bank, and paddling alongside, a man
+holds out a box with the figure of the saint in it for the “voluntary
+contributions” of the passengers, who are expected to drop a few
+kreutzers in acknowledgment of the protection that has been so kindly
+afforded them by his saintship. On board the regular passage-boat,
+money is also collected by the steersman as Riesbeck describes, and
+another ceremony likewise takes place, something similar to that
+customary on board a ship when passing the line. The steersman goes
+round with the wooden scoop or shovel, with which they wet the ropes
+that bind the paddles to their uprights, filled with water; and those
+who have never before passed through the Strudel and the Wirbel must
+either pay or be well soused with the element, the perils of which they
+have just escaped.
+
+In 1144, Beatrix of Klamm founded an hospital at St. Nikola for
+travellers on the Danube, which she so richly endowed, that Albert of
+Austria, two hundred years later, found it only necessary to provide
+for the spiritual welfare of its visitants, and therefore established a
+daily mass with the money collected on the river from Ardagger to Ips,
+in the manner above mentioned.
+
+There were formerly two other towers or fortresses in the
+neighbourhood; the ruins of one still exist on the northern bank of the
+river, nearly facing the Wirbel, on the rock called the Langen-Stein.
+The other was, as early as the twelfth century, spoken of as “the
+ruined castle of the noble Lady Helchin,” and not a fragment of it is
+now remaining. An old story, which I shall shortly have occasion to
+transcribe, speaks of the tower called “Der Teufelsthurm,” (the Devil’s
+Tower) but whether either of the four still standing have a claim to
+that respectable appellation or no, is a question at present undecided.
+It is accorded by some writers to the Castle of Werfenstein.
+
+The gorge through which the river now flows calmly and silently as
+it had never been ruffled, is of the same description as that from
+Hayenbach to Neuhaus, but the mountains that line its shores are still
+higher, and often
+
+  “Their lofty crests are capped with snow,
+  While blossoms deck the vale below.”
+
+So deep is the water, and so steady the stream, that boats of any
+burden may drift down it in the darkest night with perfect safety. We
+now floated past the old round tower of Sarblingstein, standing on a
+pedestal of granite, above a little group of houses, beside which the
+rivulet of Sarbling brawls through a woody ravine over the rocky bank
+into the Danube. The tower is all that remains of a fortress built by
+the Monks of Waldhausen in 1538, with the permission of the Emperor
+Ferdinand, upon the express condition that it should be considered an
+asylum for the inhabitants of the neighbourhood in case of invasion or
+civil war. Hirschau, close under Sarblingstein, is the last hamlet in
+Upper Austria, or Austria on the Ens. Opposite it on the right bank are
+the scarcely visible remains of the castle of Hirschau, and further
+east, upon the mountain top, lie the extensive ruins of Freystein,
+formerly one of the largest and strongest castles in Austria. At the
+close of the fourteenth century, it belonged to the famous Reinprecht
+von Walsee, and after him to the families of Preuschenk and Zinzendorf.
+The Prince of Starrhemberg also once possessed it. Near this spot two
+valleys open to the south-west, and from thence the granite is brought
+with which the streets of Vienna are paved. The labourers employed
+to blast the rocks and work the quarries live close by in the little
+village of Dörfel; beside which the rivulet Isper, the Hyspere of
+the middle ages, rippling through a narrow valley, forms the line of
+boundary northward between Upper and Lower Austria.
+
+The sun went down and the mountains seemed to sink with it, or melt
+into the mists that crept around them. The valley of the Danube
+widened,--a large building rose on the left bank, upon the end of a
+rocky promontory, throwing a deeper gloom over the darkening waters,
+its lofty tower piercing through the low vapours and soaring into
+the clear, star-spangled sky above them--it was Schloss Bösenbeug,
+the summer residence of the Emperor, and one of the oldest buildings
+in Lower Austria, though the alterations made during the last century
+by its then possessors, the Herren von Hoyos, have taken much from
+the antique appearance of its exterior[61]. Nearly facing it on the
+right bank stood the small chateau of Donaudorf, and beyond these two
+buildings, the river opened to the right and left, in the same manner
+that it did below Neuhaus. A multitude of lights glimmering amidst a
+black mass of houses and huts, and reflected in long trembling lines
+upon the water, pointed out to us the town of Ips, similarly situated
+to that of Aschach. The Castle of Bosenbeug or Persenbeug belonged
+in the ninth century to that Count Engelschalk who carried off the
+daughter of Arnulph the Bastard, and afterwards lost his eyes and his
+estates by the sentence of the Diet at Ratisbon, as has been already
+described in  the notice of Ebelsberg near Linz: Nearly all the
+confiscated property of Engelschalk was given by Arnulph to the monks
+of Kremsmünster; but, curiously enough, this Castle of Bösenbeug,
+by a train of circumstances, eluded for a long time the clutches of
+“holy mother Church,” who laboured indefatigably, “by hook or by
+_crook_,” to get it into her possession. How it escaped her grasp
+in the ninth century is not clear, but it certainly did do so, and
+became the property of the valiant Bavarian Sieghart von Sempt, to
+whom probably it was given as a stronghold, that would enable him
+better to defend the duchy against the inroads of the Hungarians.
+Sieghart fell gloriously in the execution of his trust, A.D. 907, in
+the terrible battle fought between Theben and Haimburg. To work of
+course went the monks, and at length so wrought upon the mind of one of
+his weak descendants, Albert III.; that he bequeathed to them at his
+death “the strong castle of Bösenbeug,” in despite of the entreaties
+of his wife Richlinde, or Richlita, who strove to preserve it to the
+next male heir, her nephew Welf von Altorf. The breath was scarcely
+out of the body of Albert, when a desperate struggle ensued between
+his widow and the monks of Ebersberg. The lady had taken up her
+residence in the castle, which she claimed as part of her jointure,
+with reversion to her nephew Welf, and refused to acknowledge the title
+of the church, which she contended had been fraudulently acquired.
+In the midst of this dispute, a circumstance took place which shall
+be related as nearly as possible in the words of the old chronicler
+Aventine. “The Emperor” (Henry III. surnamed the Black) “departed from
+Regensburg and came by water to Passau: there he tarried during the
+Passion week; and till the holy feast of the Ascension. The next day
+after which he again took water; and journeyed into Lower Bavaria, as
+Austria was then called. There is a town in Austria by name Grein;
+near this town is a perilous place in the Danube, called the Strudel
+by Stockerau[62]. There doth one hear the water rushing far and wide,
+so falls it over the rocks with a great foam, which is very dangerous
+to pass through, and brings the vessel into a whirlpool, rolling round
+about. The Emperor Henry went down through the Strudel; in another
+vessel was Bruno, bishop of Wurtzburg, the Emperor’s kinsman; and as
+the bishop also was passing through the Strudel, there sat upon a
+rock that projected out of the water, a man blacker than a Moor, of a
+horrible aspect, terrible to all who beheld it, who cried out and said
+to bishop Bruno, ‘Hear! hear! bishop! I am thine evil spirit! thou art
+mine own, go where thou wilt, thou shalt be mine, yet now I will do
+nought to thee, but soon shalt thou see me again[63].’ All who heard
+this were terrified. The bishop crossed and blessed himself, said a few
+prayers, and the spirit vanished. This rock is shewn to this day; upon
+it is built  a small tower all of stone, without any wood: it has no
+roof, and is called the Devil’s Tower. Not far from thence, some two
+miles journey, the Emperor and his people landed, purposing to pass
+the night in a town called Pösenbeiss, belonging to the Lady Richlita,
+widow of the Count Adalbero von Ebersberg. She received the Emperor
+joyfully; invited him to a banquet, and prayed him, besides, that
+he would bestow the town of Pösenbeiss and other surrounding places
+(that her husband had possessed and governed) on her brother’s son,
+Welforic III. The Emperor entered the banquet-room, and standing near
+Bishop Bruno, Count Aleman von Ebersberg and the Lady Richlita, gave
+the countess his right hand and granted her prayer. At that moment the
+floor of the apartment fell in, and the Emperor fell through into the
+bathing-chamber below it, without sustaining any injury, as did also
+Count Aleman, and the Lady Richlita, but the bishop fell on the edge
+of the bathing-tub, broke his ribs, and died a few days afterwards.”
+Other writers say, that the Count and the Lady Richlita both died from
+the hurts they received; but be that as it may, the right heir was,
+according to the Emperor’s promise, established at Bösenbeug, A.D.
+1045, in spite of the intrigues and plots of the monks, whose agents
+had frightened and killed the poor bishop, he having, as it appears,
+spoken a good word for the lady, who is supposed also to have fallen a
+victim to the same scandalous trick, copied most likely from a similar
+tragical farce played off by the celebrated St. Dunstan, about seventy
+years before, in England. Some time afterwards the monks renewed their
+claim in applications to the Markgraves Albert I. and Leopold III., but
+without success, the latter, in 1096, giving the castle to his youngest
+daughter, Richardis. Thus foiled, they went on a new tack, and managed
+to persuade the husband of this Princess, Count Stephaning, to join
+the first crusade, in the hope that he would never return, and that
+Bösenbeug would at length become their property. Half of the charitable
+wish was granted.
+
+           “Audiit, et voti Phœbus succedere partem
+           Mente dedit: partem volucris dispersit in auras.”
+
+The bones of the poor crusader whitened the deserts of Syria, but his
+castle reverted to the Markgraves of Austria. Ottocar, king of Bohemia,
+gave it in 1271 to the patriarch of Aquileia; but in the reign of the
+Emperor Albert I. we find it again in the possession of the house of
+Austria. The Emperor Frederick IV. took possession of it as guardian
+of Ladislaus, but he was ejected by force of arms in 1457, and the
+castle given back to Ladislaus. Rudolph II. pledged and afterwards sold
+it, with Rohreck, Weinberg, and the whole Isperthal, to the Barons of
+Hoyos, from which family it was repurchased by the present emperor in
+1801. The tilt-yard is still in good preservation, and the gardens
+are beautiful. His Majesty is very partial to the spot, and makes
+frequent excursions by land as far as the Strudel and Wirbel, from
+whence he returns in the boat of a schiffmeister at Bösenbeug of the
+name of Feldmüller, whom he patronizes highly, and who is considered
+the richest man of his calling in Lower Austria. He builds yearly about
+twenty of the boats called kellheimers, and employs one hundred horses
+and three hundred men. Most of the inhabitants of the little markt of
+Bösenbeug have, as may be supposed, considerably benefited from its
+becoming an Imperial residence.
+
+The town of Ips or Yps, as it is indifferently spelt, on the opposite
+bank, is supposed by some old geographers to be the Usbium of Ptolemy,
+by others the Pons Isidis. It is seated at the confluence of a river of
+the same name with the Danube; and, in the time of Charlemagne, appears
+under the name of Ibesse and Isebruch, as the property of the Counts of
+Sempt and Ebersberg. In 1275, Ips threw open its gates to Rudolph of
+Hapsburg; and, in 1741, the Bavarian and French armies here formed a
+junction: its name has, however, become familiar to foreign lands, not
+from the deeds of arms done in its neighbourhood, but from its having
+shared with Passau the trade in the crucibles made at Hafner-zell;
+and which, as I have before mentioned, are distinguished throughout
+the world by the names of the places where they are sold, instead of
+that of the spot where they are fabricated. Immediately below Ips, the
+river forms a reach, which, from the difficulty of its navigation,
+obtained the appellation that has eventually attached itself to the
+point of land at which it commences,--Die Böse-Beug, literally, “the
+bad corner.” Before we turned this corner, however, night had sunk down
+upon land and flood, and our crew began to be clamorous for rest and
+refreshment. Our drunken beast of a steersman, whom we had now begun
+cordially to detest, insisted upon proceeding as far as Marbach; and
+accordingly the men, who knew nothing of the river, pulled away again
+for a quarter of an hour rather sulkily; when, having lost sight of
+the lights of Ips, and seeing none appear in the distance, they again
+expressed symptoms of impatience, and upon receiving from a passing
+boat the information that Marbach was yet “eine starke stunde” (a
+long hour) distant, they became outrageous, and vowed they would run
+the boat ashore, at the first village they could discover. Neither my
+companion nor myself much objected to their determination, as there
+was every probability, from their utter ignorance of the river, the
+inability of the steersman to direct them, and the heavy fog that
+was fast rising, that in the course of a few minutes we should go
+bump ashore somewhere, whether we would or no; and therefore a hovel,
+where bed and supper might be procured, was certainly preferable to a
+sandbank without either. Two or three tapers glimmering above the fog
+through something like windows, attracting our notice on the left, the
+men pulled towards it, and our boat soon grated on the sand, under what
+first appeared a lofty wall, but which turned out, on examination, a
+steep bank, upon the ridge of which stood half a dozen poor cottages.
+Up we clambered on all fours, dragging our cloaks and portmanteaus
+with us; and a man making his appearance with a lantern, we followed
+him into an old crazy-looking hovel, which, by the outward and visible
+sign of a dead bush dangling over its door, too plainly indicated the
+miserable state of its inward and spiritual grace, though dignified by
+the title of a gasthaus[64]. Several sufficiently ill-looking fellows
+in jackets of undressed black sheep-skin, caps  of the same material,
+and high boots, each with a formidable clasp-knife, worn as an English
+carpenter wears his rule; two brawny, bare-armed, masculine wenches in
+similar jackets, with dark handkerchiefs bound round their brows in the
+Austrian fashion; and an old hag, whose habits and person were equally
+indescribable, formed the rather startling group to which our guide
+introduced us. Our application for beds appeared to astonish them. They
+had no such thing; there was plenty of straw. They had no coffee, no
+butter;--the poor fellows who had rowed us sat down on a bench, and
+began to gnaw some dry bread, the only refreshment the _hotel_ seemed
+capable of furnishing. On a sudden it occurred to us that a basin of
+boiled milk might be procurable, and sure enough half a gallon, at
+least, of delicious milk was in ten minutes smoking in two glorious
+wooden bowls, upon the long oaken table before us. Our host now entered
+with one or two helpers laden with straw, which they spread all over
+the floor, and our crew, having finished their crusts, stretched
+themselves out in a row, their knapsacks under their heads, and soon
+commenced a nasal symphony, more powerful than harmonious. The company
+and the family having one by one withdrawn, with the exception of the
+old beldame, who waited to take away the solitary candle, we betook
+ourselves also to our portion of the straw, and never in my life did I
+enjoy a sweeter, sounder sleep than that which bound up my senses in
+the humble gasthaus of Gottsdorf till six o’clock the next morning.
+
+
+                        FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER VI.)
+
+[56] Gibbon.--William of Tyre and Matthew Paris reckon seventy thousand
+loricati in each of the armies led by Conrad and the French king,
+Louis VII. The light-armed troops, the peasant infantry, the women
+and children, and the priests and monks, swelled this swarm to an
+inconceivable extent. “It is affirmed by the Greeks and Latins, that in
+the passage of a strait or river, the Byzantine agents, after a tale
+of nine hundred thousand, desisted from the endless and formidable
+computation.”--_Decline and Fall_, vol. xl. p. 107.
+
+[57] This little square tower, which is generally called, from its
+situation, the Wörther-Schloss, is described in several topographical
+works indifferently under the name of the Castle of Werfenstein, and
+the Castle of Struden. But it being clearly apparent from various
+ancient documents that the Castles of Werfenstein and Struden were
+two distinct buildings, Herr Schultes has, I think, with good reason,
+designated this the ruin of Werfenstein, and that which overhangs the
+little markt of Struden, on the left bank of the river, the Castle of
+Struden.
+
+[58] The Waldwasser and the Wildriss, like the Hössgang, are never
+passable but when the water is very high, and then only by the lightest
+and smallest craft. The Strudel, though most studded with rocks, is the
+best, and consequently the general passage for all boats and rafts,
+either ascending or descending, and has therefore given its name to the
+whole fall.
+
+[59] A singular ignorance of the true situation of these famous
+places is displayed by most of the German writers. Berckenmayer, in
+his Curiösen Antiquarius, carries the Wirbel below the town of Krems,
+and he is followed in his error by Strahlenberg, in his Beschreibung
+des Russichen Reiches, and Hübner, in his Vollständigen Geographie,
+who speak of the Wirbel as a _waterfall_ near Krems. From Hübner this
+mistake has been copied into several geographical works, and amongst
+others into the old Zeitung’s Lexicon; and many of the modern German,
+and even some English travellers speak of the Strudel and Wirbel as one
+and the same thing, a confusion which nothing but utter carelessness
+could have created; the first being distinctly a fall, and the second
+an eddy, each remarkable in itself, and at some little distance from
+the other.
+
+[60] “Inter alios (vortices) famosus ille est, qui aspicitur sub
+Lincio. Creditur vulgo origo esse lacus Neusidel in Hungaria
+Cis-Rahabanti. Aspicitur etiam alter sed hoc minor, prope pagum Almas
+infra Commaronium, qui perhibetur esse origo lacus Balaton.”--Marsigli
+Danubiani illustr. See also Herbinius de Cataract. Fluv., and Kircher’s
+Mundus subterraneus.
+
+[61] Vide Frontispiece. The view was taken from a hill on the right
+bank of the river, on our return by land from Vienna.
+
+[62] Here is another error respecting the Strudel. Stockerau is nearly
+two days journey from it, in the neighbourhood of Vienna.
+
+[63]
+     “_Brutus._  Speak to me what thou art?
+      Ghost.     _Thy evil spirit, Brutus._
+      _Brutus._  Why com’st thou?
+      Ghost.     _To tell thee thou shalt see me at Philippi._
+      _Brutus._  _Well, Then I shall see thee again?_
+      Ghost.     _Ay, at Philippi!_”
+
+                            Julius Cæsar, Act iv. Scene 3.
+
+[64] A _gast-haus_ is an hotel; a _wirths-haus_, a tavern, or ale-house.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VII.
+
+ Marbach.--Maria-Taferl.--Pechlarn.--Wiedeneck.--Mölk.--Lubereck.--The
+ Valley of the Wachau.--Schönbühel.--Aggstein.--The
+ Teufel’s-Mauer.--Spitz, and the Ruin of
+ Hinterhaus.--Church and Village of St. Michel.--Castle
+ of Dürrenstein.--Narrow escape of Marshal Mortier during
+ the Campaign of 1805.--Mautern.--Stein.--Krems.--Kloster
+ Göttweih.--Trasenmauer.--Arrival at Tuln.
+
+
+We had now been three days upon the water, during which time scarcely
+a cloud had speckled the deep blue of the sky. As the first light
+of morning, however, struggled through the little dingy casement of
+our humble hotel, we were disagreeably surprised at finding that the
+fog, which had risen the previous evening after sunset, still rolled
+heavily along the river, and threatened to continue the greater part,
+if not the whole of the day. We were still nearly two days’ journey
+from Vienna, and a change of weather, which might be portended by this
+unwelcome visitant, would probably make it four, five, or even six,
+before we could reach the capital, to say nothing of the disagreeables
+it would bring in its train. At the risk of losing the beauty of the
+prospect, therefore, we urged our immediate departure, but here we
+were met by a new difficulty. Our drunken steersman, who had lain all
+night in the boat, was now ill in _sober_ sadness, and quite incapable
+of steering us. A new pilot was to be found, and, after much parley
+and delay, our host of the gasthaus signified his consent to take the
+helm; but the fog, instead of dispersing, as we had faintly hoped,
+with the rising sun, appeared to increase in density; and not one of
+our boatmen could be prevailed on to trust himself afloat in it. After
+at least another hour’s delay, and considerable altercation, by dint
+of a little money, and promise of more, we induced three out of the
+four to venture on board, and, about eight o’clock, pushed off into
+the fog, by this time quite as thick, though not so yellow, as that
+which pervades Lombard Street on a November afternoon. Fortunately this
+part of the Danube is not fertile in fine views. The small village
+of Barthub and Mössling, on the left, and Hinterhaus, and the two
+Agens, on the right, have nothing to recommend them, either in a
+picturesque or historical point of view; and the distant prospect of
+Maria-Taferl we had afterwards an opportunity of enjoying. The river,
+from Bösenbeug and Ips, makes a bold sweep to the south as far as
+Säusenstein, that stands on a small promontory on the right bank, round
+which its waters boil and foam, and form what, in earlier times, was
+called the Charybdis Pogica. The ruin here is of a very late date. It
+was a mansion belonging to some ecclesiastic, and burned by the French
+in the last war. The Cistercian convent near it, called St. Lorenz
+in the Gottesthal, was founded by Eberhard von Walsee, in 1336. In
+the fifteenth century, it was attacked and plundered by some of the
+knightly robbers who infested the neighbourhood, and who are termed
+“_fratres hostiles_” in the old chronicles. The tombs of the family of
+Walsee, which became extinct in 1483, are still in existence here. On
+that of Reinprecht, the last of his race, is simply his motto, “Thue
+Recht,” with the words beneath it, “periisti amor,” in allusion to the
+termination of the feud between the Houses of Walsee and Schaumberg.
+All this; at least, says Herr Schultes, who had the advantage of
+visiting this spot in clearer weather--we saw neither ruin nor convent,
+nor tombs; but what we did see near this place was equally picturesque
+and striking. The sound of voices chaunting a kind of hymn, stole
+faintly on our ears, and, as it became more distinct, a boat appeared,
+like a phantom, in the fog, crowded with pilgrims, on their way to
+Marbach and Maria-Taferl. They were principally women, and sat huddled
+together round a priest, who, bare-headed, supported a crucifix, and
+occasionally chimed in, in a deep bass voice, with the quavering
+trebles of his companions. For a few minutes, they floated beside us,
+and then gradually melted again into the mist, as though they had been
+creatures of it, the hymn dying away in the distance.
+
+Before we reached Marbach, the fog, to our great gratification, had
+evidently begun to disperse. It still covered the face of the water,
+but the blue sky was visible above it; and the sun, occasionally
+breaking through it, gave us a glimpse of this or that bank, according
+to the situation of the boat. The Markt of Marbach existed as early,
+at least, as the thirteenth century, as, in 1208, we hear of the
+Knights of Marbach. Almost every house in the place is an inn, as,
+lying under the lofty mountain, on which stands the most celebrated
+place of pilgrimage in Lower Austria--the church of Maria-Taferl, it is
+of course the place of rendezvous for the countless devotees who swarm
+from all parts of the empire to that holy shrine. The inhabitants of
+Vienna, in the middle of September, come on horseback, in every kind of
+vehicle, and even on foot, hundreds in a day, and return by the Danube.
+A great traffic is also carried on with these pious personages in
+crosses, amulets, rosaries, and holy images, pictures and books of all
+descriptions, by the inhabitants of Marbach; besides which, a number of
+beggars reside here, each of whom has his or her regular standing upon
+the path winding up the hill to the Maria-Taferl; and spend duly every
+evening, in eating and drinking, the large sums they have collected
+during the day. It has been calculated that upwards of a million and a
+half of florins are annually expended here; and the minister of the
+place told Herr Schultes that one year he himself had counted 135,000
+pilgrims. A proverbial rhyme tends also much to the well doing of the
+inhabitants of Marbach:
+
+  “Wer nach Maria Taferl ein Wallfahrt maken thut
+   Diess ihm Maria Taferl macht aller wiedergut:”
+
+which may be rendered,--
+
+  Who to Maria Taferl a pilgrimage hath ta’en,
+  To him Maria Taferl shall make all good again.
+
+Expense, therefore, is the last thing considered; and the spirit of
+extravagance extends itself even to the townspeople, who lavish, in the
+pride of their well-filled purses, ridiculous sums upon the decoration
+of their houses, so that, according to another German proverb, says
+Schultes,--
+
+  “Was durch das Pfeifchen kommt, geht durch die Trommel davon.”
+
+   What comes through the fife goes away through the drum.
+
+Our new steersman put into this little markt to buy some beer and
+bread; and the fog now rolling off in broken masses, enabled us to
+get a peep at the town, which seemed a strange jumble of alehouses
+and chapels, signs and crucifixes, all very gaily and fantastically
+painted, and forming, in short, a most consistent trysting-place for
+“_publicans_ and sinners.”
+
+Maria-Taferl is to the pious Austrian what Maria-Einsiedel is to the
+Roman Catholic Swabian, and Maria-Oetting to the Bavarian of the same
+persuasion. The lovers of an extensive and beautiful prospect may, for
+an hour’s climbing, enjoy, from the summit of the mountain on which
+it stands, a splendid panorama of the Danube and great part of Lower
+Austria, the Alps of the Steyermark, and the whole chain of mountains
+from the lofty Schneeberg in the Wiener-Wald, to the frontier of
+Bavaria. The history of this celebrated place of pilgrimage may be
+bought for two kreutzers, a great deal more than it is worth, but that
+it is amusing and instructive to see how grossly the Roman Catholic
+priesthood are yet permitted to gull an ignorant, and consequently
+superstitious people.
+
+The precious document sets forth with stating the well-known fact of
+the existence, from time immemorial, of a venerable oak-tree on the
+top of the mountain, in which was placed a figure of the crucified
+Redeemer. To this spot the inhabitants of Klein-Pechlarn, a small
+village in the neighbourhood, used to repair every Easter Monday to put
+up their petitions for a fine harvest, and, after hearing the service
+chaunted, sat down at a stone table before the church-door, and ate,
+drank, and were merry; from whence arose the name of Maria-_Taferl_,
+or Mary of the Table. In 1662, a herdsman, either from ignorance or
+wantonness, attempted to hew down the sacred tree, on which age had
+already heavily laid its withering and deforming hand. At the first
+blow, however, the axe recoiled so violently, that it sprung from his
+grasp and wounded one of his feet severely. Unchecked by this warning,
+however, he made a second blow, when it again recoiled with still more
+violence, and desperately wounded his other foot[65]. The profane
+herdman, now lifting up his eyes in agony, observed the crucifix, and
+struck with remorse, craved pardon of God for his impiety; upon which
+the blood stopped of its own accord, and his wounds healed immediately,
+without surgical or any human assistance! Ten years after this
+miraculous occurrence, a man named Alexander Schinnagel, who suffered
+under a deep and distressing melancholy, which he could not shake off,
+came, by heaven directed, to the house of a schoolmaster, who had in
+his chamber an image of the Virgin, called a Vesperbild. Schinnagel
+bought the image, and carried it home. In the middle of the night,
+he heard “a still small voice,” saying, “Wouldst thou be cured, take
+the image, and place it in the oak at Maria-Taferl.” Accordingly, at
+day-break, up rose Alexander, and proceeded with his purchase to the
+mountain-top, where he placed it as directed, taking down at the same
+time the crucifix, which age and exposure to the weather had nearly
+destroyed.. Immediately his melancholy left him, and he returned home
+a merry, and, we hope, a grateful man. Since that period the angels
+themselves have frequently visited the sacred spot. On the 17th of
+June, 1658, a most credible (credulous?) personage saw a snow white
+and luminous apparition, in mid-day, before the holy effigy. In 1659,
+three persons, equally worthy of belief, saw a whole troop of angels,
+in white garments, and in processional order, on their way to the
+Vesperbild. Another time, when forty people were collected together in
+its neighbourhood, three of them saw an angelical procession in the
+air, and three bright stars of remarkable magnitude immediately above
+the figure. Again, a procession of white-clothed personages was seen by
+eight or ten people, the leading apparition bearing a red cross; and
+shortly afterwards a wax taper was suddenly observed burning before
+the Vesperbild. In 1661, many other angelical phantoms were seen by
+sometimes thirty, and once by a hundred people at a time, all of
+them most respectable and credible witnesses, whose testimonies were
+registered, signed, and sworn to before the competent authorities![66]
+
+As the vapours, which had till now enveloped us, began rapidly to yield
+to the power of the sun, and were swept in masses by the fresh breeze
+of morning from the bright face of the river and the fair hills beside
+it, disclosing the rich and beautiful prospect that opened upon us with
+the widening valley, smiling in warmth and light; it was impossible to
+suppress the remark, commonplace as it may be considered, that, thus,
+at no very distant period, would the mists of error and superstition
+fly before the increasing influence of knowledge and truth, and man,
+awaking to the contemplation of the sublime paths they enlighten,
+“Look,” full of hope, joy, and gratitude, “through Nature, up to
+nature’s God!”
+
+Albert IV., Duke of Austria, whose journey to the Holy Land gave rise
+to so many romantic stories, that he obtained the appellation of the
+“wonder of the world,” resided for some time at Marbach, in the valley
+of All Saints, with the Carthusians: “with them,” says a contemporary,
+“he attends matins, reads the lessons, makes inclinations,
+genuflexions, observes ceremonies, confessions and prayers. He not
+only joins them in the performance of divine service in the choir, but
+affords an example of humility by frequenting the Chapter-house. In a
+word, he calls himself brother Albert, and considers himself in every
+respect as one of the order[67].”
+
+So few travellers ever think of taking a boat to themselves, that we
+were hailed at Marbach, as an _ordinari-schiff_[68], by three poor
+women who wanted to go to Vienna. Having plenty of room to spare, we
+consented to their coming on board, which they accordingly did with
+their baskets and bundles sans cérémonie, imagining that they should
+have to pay the usual fare for their passage; and with this accession
+of company and cargo we again set forward. Below Schelmenbach and
+Krumpen-Nussbaum falls the mountain-stream called the Erlaf, into the
+Danube, named in deeds of the time of Charlemagne, and long the
+boundary between Bavaria and the Land of the Huns. At the mouth of the
+Erlaf, is a Rechen or Grate, where the wood collects that is floated
+down this stream from the forests in the neighbourhood of Maria-Zell,
+in the Steyermark, near which it takes its rise. It is customary in
+Germany to place one of these gratings at the mouth of any tributary
+stream, or in the bed of any river where a line of demarcation is drawn
+naturally or artificially between two kingdoms, two provinces or even
+two parishes. So that the branches and trunks of trees blown down by
+high winds, and swept away by inundations into the current, should not
+be carried beyond the frontiers or boundaries of the state or property
+to which they belong, and which derives from them no inconsiderable
+portion of its revenue.
+
+The timber, also, regularly felled by the wood-cutters, is thrown thus
+carelessly on the mountain-streams of Germany, and floats down to
+the Rechen or Grate, where it is afterwards collected by its owners,
+who are thus saved the trouble and expense of land carriage; and the
+drifting property is protected from plunder by the severity of the
+laws relating to it.
+
+Before us now lay the two Pechlarns; Great Pechlarn on the right,
+and Little Pechlarn on the left bank. At the first we determined to
+breakfast, were it only to feast where the fair Chrimhilt had feasted,
+in
+
+  “Die Burg zu Bechelaren.”
+
+No relics of the “Burg” itself, however, exist; but an old gateway,
+some round towers, and here and there a few feet of crumbling wall,
+attest the early grandeur of the place, and fancy fills up the chasms
+which time has made, with court and keep, buttress and battlement,
+crowded with fair damsels and fierce soldiery, “all, all abroad to
+gaze” at the advancing pageant.
+
+There, round that point of land, comes the royal fleet, the banners
+of Hungary, Burgundy, Bavaria, Pechlarn, and Passau, flinging their
+blazoned glories on the breeze, and proudly announcing to the admiring
+burghers the rich freight of rank and beauty which the swelling Danube
+is wafting to their port. Five hundred “Kemps of Hungary,” their bright
+hauberks glittering in the sun, crowd the decks of the first vessels.
+On the prow of the foremost stands the valiant Markgraf, Rudiger of
+Pechlarn, than whom
+
+                     “A truer soldier never
+                     Was in this world yborn,[69]”
+
+bending eagerly forward to distinguish, amongst the bevy of beauties
+at “the open windows[70]” of the castle, the fair forms of his beloved
+wife and daughter. Beneath the rich canopy that shades the deck of
+yonder bark, with the gilded oars, now doubling the little promontory,
+sits the peerless bride of the mighty Etzel, but she hears not the
+shout of welcome that rises on the shore; she marks not the gay
+multitudes that crowd to pay her homage. Her brow is clouded, her ruby
+lip quivers, tears like liquid diamonds tremble upon the long dark
+silken lashes of her downcast eyes; the form of the noble Siegfried is
+constantly before her. She hears but the voice of her murdered champion
+calling for vengeance; she sees but the ghastly wound which treachery
+dealt, bleeding afresh at the approach of the dark and deadly Haghen.
+Yet, passing beautiful is she even in sorrow, and still warrants the
+glowing description of the old minnesænger, Henry of Ofterdingen.[71]
+
+      “From out her broidered garments
+      Full many a jewel shone,
+      The rosy red bloomed sweetly
+      Her lovely cheek upon.
+      He who would in fancy
+      Paint that lady fair,
+      In this world has never
+      Seen such beauty rare.
+
+      As the moon outshineth
+      Every twinkling star,
+      Shedding careless splendour
+      From out her cloudy car;
+      So, before her maidens,
+      Stood that lady bright,
+      And higher swelled the spirit
+      Of every gazing knight.[72]”
+
+By her side stands a venerable figure, clad in the gorgeous and sacred
+vestments of his office. The flowing stole of embroidered silk, the
+pallium of cloth of gold, the jewelled mitre, the “gilt shoon,” and
+the massive but richly wrought cross and crosier, borne by two of his
+attendants, distinguish  him as the holy Pilgerin, the wealthy and
+powerful Bishop of Passau, uncle to the queen, and related also to the
+noble Rudiger. The pale youth near him, his hands reverently crossed
+upon his bosom, is his clerk Conrad, who afterwards assisted him to
+write, in “the Latin tongue,” the adventures of the Nibelungen. On the
+other hand of the lovely Chrimhilt, stands the faithful Duke Eckewart,
+who has sworn to escort his liege lady to Hungary; and the remainder
+of the flotilla bears the five hundred chosen Knights of Burgundy, who
+follow his standard. The vision is over, the airy castle has vanished--
+
+              “The knights are dust,
+              Their good swords are rust,
+              Their souls are with the saints we trust.”
+
+And a rude and solitary boat is rocking under the windows of a poor
+white-washed wirthshaus, which, with half a dozen humble cottages and
+some mouldering walls, now marks the site of the once strong and gay
+burg of Pechlarn!
+
+Rudiger of Pechlarn, as well as his kinsman, the Bishop of Passau, is
+an historical personage. He was Count of the frontier during the reign
+of Arnulph, Duke of Bavaria, and died in 916. His son, Markgraf Rudiger
+II., died in 943, and with him the direct male line became extinct. The
+little town of Pechlarn is now principally inhabited by potters.
+
+Beyond Pechlarn, the river keeps still widening, till, on the left
+bank, rises the fine old Castle of Weideneck, which receives its name
+from a neighbouring rivulet, and is supposed to have been built by
+the elder Rudiger of Pechlarn. The Emperor Frederick IV., and the
+famous Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, both beleaguered Weideneck.
+The former twice won and lost it. But the eye has scarcely caught
+sight of Weideneck, before it is attracted by the distant domes of
+the magnificent Convent of Mölk, that appear over the willows of an
+island, in the centre of the river. Gradually, the entire façade of the
+convent, upon its granite rock, and the little market-town beneath it,
+glide from behind the island, and complete one of the most imposing and
+beautiful pictures upon the river. The present splendid structure was
+built in 1720-32, by an architect, named Prandauer; but the rock on
+which it stands, once supported, not only a more ancient convent, but
+also a Roman fortress. Under the name of Medilke, it appears in the
+Nibelungen-lied,
+
+  “At Medilke were the goblets
+   Of costly gold, filled high,
+   And the wine went gaily round
+   Mid that noble company.”
+
+But the authentic history of Mölk commences apparently in the sixteenth
+century, when the Markgraf Leopold I., surnamed the Illustrious, made
+it his residence after wresting it from the power of the Hungarians.
+This valiant prince founded here a kloster, and was here interred after
+his murder at Wurzburg, as were likewise his wife, Richarde, his sons
+Henry and Albrecht, and their wives, Mechthilde and Frowiza, Adelheid,
+Countess of Leopold the Strong, the Margraf Ernest III., surnamed the
+Valiant, and his lady Schwanehild, Leopold III., surnamed the Handsome,
+and many other noble Austrian and Bavarian knights and ladies. Saint
+Colomanus, or Saint Colman, descended, according to the story, from
+the early Kings of Scotland, was also buried at Mölk. This saint,
+travelling through Austria to Jerusalem, was seized, at Stockerau, by
+some rebellious peasants, A.D. 1012, who, taking him for a spy, hung
+him upon a tree, where his body remained a year and a half without
+putrefaction, and afterwards worked many miracles! Leopold III., in
+the year 1089, established some Benedictines from Lambach in this
+Kloster; and his son, Leopold IV., who was born here in 1073, and here
+celebrated his marriage with Agnes, daughter of the Emperor Henry IV.,
+and widow of Frederick of Hohenstaufen, gave up his palace to them,
+and retired to the Khalenberg, near Vienna. The Kloster of Mölk soon
+became proverbial for its wealth, and its superior was the Primate of
+Lower Austria. In 1619, the insurgents of Upper Austria besieged Mölk
+for upwards of a month, as did also the Turks in 1684. Napoleon had
+his headquarters here in 1805, and again in 1809; and a mark is shown
+upon the floor of one of the apartments in the Kloster, which he is
+said to have made in a passion. While a few monks inhabit this splendid
+palace, their sovereign, one of the most powerful monarchs in Europe,
+passes a considerable portion of his time in an humble wooden building,
+upon the opposite bank of the Danube. At Lubereck, a little below the
+Castle of Weideneck, beside a romantic waterfall, is a small edifice,
+built entirely of wood, and formerly the country residence of the Baron
+von Führenberg, postmaster of Mölk. Between this place and Bösenbeug,
+Francis I. divides nearly all the hours which, during summer, he
+snatches from the cares of empire. In his plain, domestic habits,
+and in the kindness and affability with which, in such moments of
+relaxation, he listens or chats to his humble neighbours, the present
+Sovereign of Austria greatly resembles our own late venerable monarch,
+King George III., and, like him, has compelled his bitterest political
+enemies to acknowledge that, in all the private virtues of life, as a
+husband, a father, and a master, he is an example, not only to his own
+subjects, but to mankind.
+
+On the left bank, beyond Lubereck, is the markt of Emmersdorf, at the
+point of a narrow neck of land, round which the Danube wheels to the
+north-east, and enters the romantic valley of the Wachau. Emmersdorf,
+like so many other places on the Danube, was formerly the seat of some
+powerful robbers, who levied contributions upon the passing vessels,
+and blotted the page of history with such bloody deeds that, to use the
+expression of a modern German writer, the hand of a common executioner
+alone could steadily transcribe them. At the mouth of the Bielach,
+a little river that empties itself into the Danube nearly facing
+Emmersdorf, and over which there is a ferry, the celebrated district
+called the Wachau commences, and extends itself as far as the castle of
+Dürrenstein, some say as far as Mautern and Krems. The view from this
+point, either looking up or down the river, is exceedingly beautiful.
+The western prospect is enriched with the castle of Weideneck, the
+Palace-convent and markt of Mölk, and the noble mountains of Upper
+Austria, which here you gaze on for the last time. Turning and looking
+into the mouth of the yawning gorge, the eye is first attracted by
+the castle and kloster of Schönbühel, picturesquely situated on the
+brink of the precipitous right bank, behind which rise some gigantic
+mountains. On the left, a crescent of bold craggy hills, towering one
+over the other, checks the northerly inclination of the mighty flood,
+and bends it again eastward, while upon one of them the fine ruin of
+Aggstein glimmers white in the distance.
+
+Charlemagne, in the year 803, gave the whole valley of the Wachau
+(in terra Avarorum) from the Bielach as far as Tuln, Zeizelmauer
+and Perschling, (Tulna, Zysenmurus et Bierstlinga,) to the Bishop
+of Passau, and it belonged to Bavaria, at least “in spiritualibus,”
+till 1805. Schloss Schönbühel stands, as I have before said, at the
+entrance to the valley, upon a wall of granite, from which its own
+walls are scarcely distinguishable. Schultes calls it a ruin, but to
+me it had the appearance of an inhabited château in excellent repair.
+It is a singular-looking building, with a tall, square, but narrow
+tower, shooting up from the centre of its western front, more like a
+chimney than a turret. Its situation, however, is exceedingly fine and
+commanding, and it has the reputation of being haunted by no less a
+spirit than Lucifer himself, a circumstance which would alone render
+it interesting to the romantic tourist. A little beyond it stands an
+old chapel or kloster, belonging to the Schloss. In the fourteenth
+century this place belonged to the family of Starrhemberg. Having now
+fairly entered the valley, we perceived the markt of Aggsbach on the
+left bank, and facing it, Klein, or little Aggsbach. In a chasm behind
+the latter, Haderich von Meissau, the Kuenringer and marshal of Lower
+Austria, founded, in 1386, a convent for thirteen Carthusian Monks,
+which was suppressed by Joseph II. in 1782; and on the mountain top,
+a little beyond the former, stand the before-mentioned ruins of the
+Castle of Aggstein. There is a tradition respecting this castle, of
+a peculiarly German cast, and which would work up well in “a tale of
+terror.” It is said that it was anciently the hold of a robber knight
+named Schrekenwald, who, after seizing and plundering the unfortunate
+travellers on the Danube, thrust his wretched captives through an iron
+door over the rocks into a deep abyss behind the castle, which he
+called his “Little Rose Garden,” and from which (even if by a miracle
+they were not dashed to pieces in their fall) the chance of escape
+was next to impossible. The tradition is preserved in an Austrian
+proverb; when any one is in such a strait as to preclude all hope of
+extrication, he is said to be “in Schreckenwald’s Rose-garden.” The
+story, however, goes on to say, that, by some extraordinary chance, one
+of his intended victims did effect his escape, and with the help of his
+friends, who returned with him in arms, surprised, made prisoner, and
+hung the monster.
+
+In the year 1232, Hadmar, the Kuenringer, who was also lord of
+Dürrenstein, possessed this castle, and ravaged, in company with
+his brother Heinrich von Weitra, the whole country as far as Stein
+and Krems. The trembling inhabitants called them “the Hounds,” and
+Frederick, the last of the Babenbergers, in vain endeavoured to subdue
+and destroy them. A merchant, named Rudiger, at length suggested a
+ruse de guerre to the Emperor. “I will freight,” said he, “a vessel at
+Regensburg, laden with the most costly merchandise: the tidings will
+soon reach the robbers at Aggstein. Thirty stout knights shall lie
+concealed in the vessel, and when Hadmar rushes down from his castle,
+and boards us with a few of his vassals, thinking to plunder some
+peaceable merchants, the knights shall rush out upon and overpower him,
+while I push off from the shore.” The plan was adopted, and succeeded.
+The vessel was freighted at Regensburg, and stopped at Aggstein. Hadmar
+flung himself into the snare set for him, and Rudiger and his people,
+rowing off at the same moment, brought the robber prisoner to the feet
+of Frederick.
+
+In 1277, Luitold Kuenring possessed the castles of Aggstein and
+Dürrenstein, but lost them both, with many others, in rebellion against
+Albert I., and was banished the country in 1291. From that period its
+history is a mere record of bargains and sales, which terminates with
+its purchase by a Count of Beroldingen, in 1819.
+
+The castle is finely situated on the crest of a conical hill, and the
+path up to it lies through a thick forest which affords a pleasing
+shelter to the noontide traveller, whom curiosity leads to inspect the
+ruins. The keys are kept in the little wirthshaus on the bank below
+it. Great part of the castle is in tolerable preservation, at least as
+far as regards the bare walls; and the date over the gateway, if Prof.
+Schultes have rightly copied it, (for I did not see it myself,) appears
+to me rather apocryphal. The inscription runs thus:--
+
+                       “Das Purkstall hat ange
+                        vangen tze pauen her Jo
+                        rig der Schektvon w
+                        ald der nachten montag
+                        nach unser Frauventag
+                        nativitatis, da von Crist
+                        gpurd waren ergangen
+                        +MCCXXVIII+ Jar.[73]”
+
+Below Schwallenbach, a small markt on the left bank, a rude mass of
+barren crags  has received the name of the Teufel’s mauer (Devil’s
+wall.) This busy “old gentleman” is said to have taken it into his
+head to block up the Danube at this spot, but, through some special
+intervention of Providence, a sudden stop was put to the infernal
+masonry. An echo slumbers here, which, waked by a pistol-shot, resents
+the impertinence in a voice of thunder. Having passed the villages
+of Ober or Schloss-Arnsdorf, and Mitter-Arnsdorf, we at length
+arrived before the markt and castle of Spitz, the towers of which
+had been visible from Schwallenbach. Both town and castle belonged
+anciently to Bavaria, and they have been in turn the property of
+most of the ecclesiastical and lay robbers we have already heard so
+much of--the bishops of Passau and Salzburg, the monks of Nieder
+Altaich, the Margraves Burkhard and Leopold, Hansen the Kapeller,
+Hadmar the Kuenringer, etc. etc. In 1805, Marshal Mortier, who had
+narrowly escaped destruction near Dürrenstein, was glad to cross the
+Danube at this place by means of a bridge of boats. The old castle
+above the little markt is called the Hinterhaus, and is one of the
+most picturesque ruins on the river. The rock it stands upon is of
+an extraordinary form, black, rugged, and bare, a gigantic pedestal,
+worthy of supporting this fine monument of the middle ages. The church
+and village of St. Michel, with their old round towers and crumbling
+walls, are the next interesting objects. The precipices upon both banks
+now assume the most fantastic forms. The vine has here again made its
+appearance. Its light green is beautifully contrasted with the dark
+firs and pines, and the white barren peaks that Nature seems to have
+fashioned in her most eccentric moods.
+
+As the valley narrows, the rocks rise higher and higher, and the wild
+scenery of the Schlägen is for the last time repeated. This savage
+glen has long been considered by the peasantry of the neighbourhood
+as the haunt of witches and evil spirits; and about thirty years ago
+a poor little old woman, who was feeding her goat upon one of these
+precipices, was absolutely shot with a glass bullet, for a wetter-hexe
+(weather-witch,) a violent thunder-storm which had unfortunately
+arisen being “charged to her account,” by the superstitious marksman.
+On emerging from this gorge--the crowning glory of the romantic
+scene--the magnificent ruin of Dürrenstein presents itself on its
+stupendous rock. Language cannot do justice to the sublimity of this
+view, which might task the united pencils of a Claude and a Salvator
+Rosa. Independently of its beauty and grandeur, what recollections
+crowd upon the mind, as the splendid picture dawns upon the
+sight,--Richard Cœur de Lion!--Six hundred years have past, and the
+name is still a spell-word to conjure up all the brightest and noblest
+visions of the age of chivalry. What glorious phantoms rise at the
+sound! Saladin--the great, the valiant, the generous Saladin, again
+wheels at the head of his Cavalry--Frederick Barbarossa, the conqueror
+of Iconium--the brave but politic Philip of France--the gallant
+but unfortunate Marquis of Montferrat! The whole host of red-cross
+warriors--the knights of the Temple and St. John--start again into
+existence from their graves in the Syrian Deserts, and their tombs
+in Christian Europe, where still their recumbent effigies grasp the
+sword in stone. The Lion-hearted Plantagenet once more flourishes
+with a giant’s strength; the tremendous battle-axe, whereon “were
+twenty pounds of steel[74],” around the nodding broom-plant in his
+cylindrical helmet, while his implacable foe, Leopold of Austria, leans
+frowning on his azure shield; his surcoat of cloth of silver “dabbled
+in blood,” that terrible token of his valour at Ptolemais, which is
+to this day the blazon of his ancient house[75]. Yonder walls have
+echoed to the clank of the fetters with which his unknightly vengeance
+loaded Richard of England--to the minstrel-moan of “the Lord of Oc and
+No[76],” and (for who can coldly  pause to separate such romantic
+facts from the romance they have inspired) to the lay of the faithful
+Blondel, which, wafted by the pitying winds to his Royal Master’s ear,
+soothed his captivity, and brightened his hopes of freedom. Many are
+the castles on the banks of the Danube pointed out to the traveller
+as the prison of Cœur de Lion. Aggstein, which we have not long
+passed, Greifenstein, which we are approaching, both assert a similar
+claim to our interest, our veneration; and it has been not improbably
+conjectured, that Richard was in turn the resident of each, being
+secretly removed from fortress to fortress, by his subtle and malignant
+captor, in order to baffle the researches of his friends and followers.
+Notwithstanding this dispute, Dürrenstein has by general consent,
+and long tradition, been established as the principal place of his
+confinement; and no one who, with that impression, has gazed upon its
+majestic ruins, would thank the sceptic who should endeavour to disturb
+his belief. They stand upon a colossal rock, which rising from a
+promontory picturesquely terminated by the little town of Dürrenstein,
+is singularly ribbed from top to bottom by a rugged mass of granite
+indented like a saw. On each side of this natural barrier, a strip of
+low wall, with small towers at equal distances, straggles down the
+rock, which, thus divided, is here and there cut towards its base into
+cross terraces planted with vines, and in the ruder parts left bare, or
+patched with lichens and shrubs of various descriptions. On its naked
+and conical crest, as though a piece of the crag itself, rises the keep
+of the castle, square, with four square towers at its angles, and not
+unlike the fine ruin at Rochester. Had the accomplished Hemans beheld
+the scene, her muse could scarcely have better described it.
+
+  “He hath reached a mountain hung with vine,
+
+     *       *       *       *       *
+
+   The feudal towers that crest its height
+   Frown in unconquerable might;
+   Dark is their aspect of sullen state,
+   No helmet hangs o’er the massy gate,
+   To bid the wearied pilgrim rest,
+   At the chieftain’s board a welcome guest;
+   Vainly rich evening’s parting smile
+   Would chase the gloom of the haughty pile,
+   That midst bright sunshine lowers on high,
+   Like a thunder-cloud in a summer sky.
+
+     *       *       *       *       *
+
+   Lingering he gazed--the rocks around
+   Sublime in savage grandeur frowned;
+   Proud guardians of the regal flood,
+   In giant strength the mountains stood;
+   By torrents cleft, by tempests riven,
+   Yet mingling still with the calm blue heaven[77].”
+
+The celebrated Denon had a sketch made of this castle and rock, and
+sent to Paris expressly for a scene in Gretry’s well-known opera,
+“Richard Cœur de Lion.”
+
+The circumstances of Richard’s quarrel with the Duke of Austria, and
+his subsequent arrest and captivity, are too well known to require
+insertion here; but, in the Chronicon Zwetlense, t. 1, s. 531, it
+is expressly stated that Richard was seized at Erpuch, near Vienna,
+(this Erpuch being the present Erdberg, one of the largest of its
+many suburbs,) and given, by Leopold, into the custody of Hadmar, the
+Kuenringer at Tyernstain (Dürrenstein). The old chronicler, Haselbach,
+also says that Richard came to Vienna as a pilgrim, in a company of
+cooks, and acted as turnspit one evening in the kitchen of the Duke of
+Austria. But a cook, recognizing his features, informed Leopold, who
+immediately commanded Richard to be brought before him, and addressed
+him in these words, “Domine Rex Anglorum, nimis nobilis estis, ut sitis
+assator in coquina ducis;” after which he delivered him into “Honesta
+Custodia.” According to the Chronicon Conradi Cœnobitæ Schyrensis,
+Richard, after suffering shipwreck at Aquileia, was betrayed to Leopold
+by the Duke of Carinthia. The story of his having betrayed himself,
+in his passage through Austria, by his expenses and liberalities, is,
+however, the most probable, as well as the best authenticated.
+
+Dürrenstein is first mentioned about the year 1170, when, in some
+deeds, are found the names of Göttschalk and Regenbert von Tirnstain.
+In 1192, the year in which Richard was made prisoner, the castle is
+known to have belonged to Hadmar, the Kuenringer, who was likewise
+the possessor of Aggstein; and, in 1231, it was taken, and partially
+destroyed by Frederick, the last of the Babenbergers. No events of
+consequence are recorded to have taken place in it from that time to
+the year 1645, when the Swedes are supposed to have reduced it to
+its present ruinous condition. The little town at its foot, with its
+handsome church[78], is prettily situated; and when, in 1741, a party
+of French and Bavarian cavalry forded the Danube, in hopes to surprise
+it, the citizens hit upon a plan as novel as ingenious. They barred up
+their gates as well as they could, laid logs of firewood on the walls,
+in imitation of cannon, chalked the rims of their hats, to give them
+the appearance of being bound with white lace, according to the uniform
+of their troops at that time, and parading up and down the ramparts
+with much drumming and bustle, taking care that their hats only should
+be seen above the walls, absolutely induced the enemy to believe that
+the place was strongly garrisoned; and they accordingly wheeled to the
+right about without firing a shot, to the infinite joy and amusement of
+the cunning inhabitants, who certainly well deserved their escape.
+
+On the 11th of November, 1805, the defiles behind Dürrenstein were the
+scene of a murderous conflict between the French, under Mortier and
+Dupont, and the Russians, under Doctorof and the Austrian general,
+Schmidt. Mortier, who had instructions from Napoleon to march upon
+Krems, and was anxious to prevent the Russians passing into Moravia,
+hurried forwards with Gazan’s division, and a brigade of dragoons,
+being followed, at some distance, by Dupont’s division, and some
+Dutch regiments. Below Dürrenstein, he encountered the advance guard
+of Miloradowich, which he drove back to the gates of Stein, making a
+few prisoners: but this slight success had nearly led to his ruin,
+for, at the same instant, another strong corps of Russians, led by
+Generals Schmidt and Doctorof, descended the mountains in his rear;
+and General Essen, having reinforced Miloradowich, and thrown himself
+before Loiben, the French were between two fires. Mortier had no
+remedy but to cut his way, if possible, through the column in his rear,
+and so effect a junction with Dupont, to whom he had, fortunately for
+himself, sent orders to quicken his march. Major Henriod, at the head
+of the 100th regiment, charged the Russians, and a horrible carnage
+ensued in the narrow defiles, crowded with infuriated soldiery. Two
+pieces of artillery, which Mortier had with him, decided the issue
+of the combat in his favour, his adversaries being destitute of
+cannon. The brave Austrian, Schmidt, fell at the first discharge; and
+Doctorof, endeavouring to withdraw his troops from the ravine, was
+suddenly attacked, in the rear, by the division of Dupont, and thus
+found himself, in his turn, between two fires. With much difficulty he
+effected his retreat over the mountain he had just descended; and the
+desperate troops of Mortier rushing into the defile, as they imagined,
+on the bayonets of their enemies, found themselves, before they were
+aware, in the arms of their friends and countrymen. From twelve to
+fifteen hundred men were lost on each side, and the allies received a
+terrible blow in the death of General Schmidt, the friend and companion
+in arms of the Archduke Charles[79].
+
+Below Dürrenstein, the river widens, and a new and cheerful prospect
+dawns upon the sight. Three small towns, Stein, Mautern, and Krems, the
+two first connected by a bridge, about six hundred and thirty paces
+long, across the Danube, present themselves at once to the eye; and
+over Mautern, on the right bank, upon a finely-wooded mountain, rise
+the towers and cupolas of Kloster Göttweih.
+
+Mautern was known as early as the time of Charlemagne, and in 898 was
+called the town of Mutarum, and fortified by Isanrich, the son of
+the Markgraf Arbo, when he rose against the Emperor Arnulf. Arnulf,
+though in the last stage of illness, laid seige to Mautern, and took
+it in the following year, a few months before his death; but Isanrich
+succeeded in eluding his conqueror, and sought refuge in Moravia.
+Rudolph of Hapsburg gave the same rights and privileges to Mautern as
+ were enjoyed by Stein and Krems in reward for its early declaration
+in his favour. In 1347, the burghers, having joined their neighbours
+of Krems in a cruel persecution of the Jews, were severely punished by
+Albert II., and their Lord, the Bishop of Passau, whose _Christian_
+zeal had been rather exuberant, was condemned to pay a fine to the
+Duke of six hundred pounds. Matthias Corvinus, the gallant King of
+Hungary, gained a victory here over the Austrians in 1484. In 1805, the
+Russians under Kutusof retreated before Murat, Lannes, and Soult, over
+the bridge at Mautern, and immediately burnt it. It was destroyed again
+by the Austrian Field-marshal Hiller in 1809, on the second advance of
+Napoleon to Vienna. With the exception of the old gate, through which
+the road leads to St. Pölten and Göttweih, little remains to vouch for
+the antiquity of the town; and the same may be said of Stein, under the
+walls of which we landed,--the gate facing the water, and the ruins
+of some old building near the bridge, being all the relics that “Goth
+and Time and Turk have spared”--I might add, Hungarian and Swede,
+as Matthias Corvinus stormed it in 1486, and Torstenson in 1645. So
+exasperated was the latter by the opposition he met with, that when he
+at length entered the place, he took most sanguinary vengeance upon the
+brave citizens. Stein is little more than one long, rambling street,
+over the vile flints of which, as we entered it, half a dozen poor
+old women, nearly all upon crutches, were hobbling in ludicrous haste
+after a dirty little ragamuffin, who, bearing the banner of some Saint,
+very like a red pocket handkerchief, appeared to enjoy the fruitless
+attempts of the unfortunate cripples to keep pace with him. On the
+young rascal went, at a sort of hand gallop, while they, like Johnson’s
+“Panting Time,”
+
+                      “Toiled after him in vain.”
+
+Quitting Stein at the eastern extremity of this long street, a walk
+of about ten minutes conducts you through a pretty promenade, planted
+with trees, and called the little Präter, to the gates of Krems, the
+most considerable of these three small towns. It is first mentioned in
+the reign of Otto III. In the year 1347, its kennels ran with Hebrew
+blood. It was pretended that the Jews had poisoned the wells of the
+town; and as any report, however ridiculous, provided it afforded a
+pretext to insult and plunder that unfortunate people, was eagerly and
+implicitly believed by the brutal populace, an immediate slaughter took
+place of all who refused to acknowledge the divinity of Christ. Many
+wealthy Israelites being aware of the real motive of their persecutors,
+made their despair minister to their vengeance, and barring up
+themselves, their family, and their riches together, set fire to the
+building, and perished exultingly in the flames that anticipated the
+spoiler. The horrid frenzy extended to Stein, Mautern, and many other
+places in the vicinity, and was only allayed by the arrival of the
+brave Erbschenk von Meissau who, by command of Albert II., hurried
+with a considerable force into the disturbed districts. Krems and
+Stein were heavily mulcted, and the neighbouring villages, Loiben,
+Strassing, Rattendorf and Weinzierl, plundered by the soldiery of the
+blood-stained booty they had acquired. In the fifteenth century, Krems
+was twice besieged by Matthias Corvinus, the last time successfully.
+On the invasion of Austria by the Bohemian Protestants in 1619, a corps
+of the insurgents under their Colonel, Carpizan, having cut off the
+garrison of Krems, which had made a desperate sally from the town,
+immediately advanced to scale the now defenceless walls; but the women
+with one consent, seizing the first weapons they could find, rushed to
+the ramparts, and fought with such steady bravery, that the enemy were
+at length obliged to abandon the attempt. To this memorable achievement
+Ferdinand II. was in great measure indebted for the preservation of his
+empire; for Krems being thus relieved, General Dampierre detached a
+body of five hundred horse to Vienna, at that time closely invested by
+Count Thurn. The Emperor, reduced to the last extremity, the walls of
+his palace battered by the Bohemian cannon, and echoing the reproachful
+shouts of his disaffected subjects, had resigned himself to his fate,
+when the sudden blast of a trumpet announced the arrival of succour.
+The little squadron of horse having secretly descended the Danube,
+and entered the capital by the only gate unguarded by the enemy, was
+magnified into a mighty host by the fears of the malcontents, who
+dispersed in every direction. The friends of the Emperor took courage,
+six hundred students flew to arms; their example was followed by
+fifteen hundred citizens; additional succours arrived, and in a few
+hours all appearance of danger and discontent had subsided.
+
+Krems is the seat of what is termed in Austria a kreis-amtes, or
+council, having the government of one of the circles of the empire.
+Its jurisdiction extends over a fourth of Lower Austria, called
+the Viertel, or quarter of Ober-Manhardsberg. The principal public
+buildings are the Pfarrekirche, built in 1464, the church of St.
+Katharine, remarkable as having been originally a residence of the
+knights-templars, a theatre, a gymnasium, and a cassino. The Austrian
+epicure is indebted to Krems for excellent mustard, and the sportsman
+for superior gunpowder; upwards of forty thousand florins worth of the
+former article is yearly made and sold in this town. The mustard is
+sent in its natural state from Znaym, Rausenbruck, and various other
+parts of Moravia, and boiled at Krems with unfermented wine, which
+gives it its peculiar flavour. In a vineyard near Krems was formerly
+a well, the water of which was believed a sovereign specific for all
+disorders. The neighbouring capuchins of Und, who were the respectable
+vouchers for its efficacy, sold the pure element at a so large a price,
+that the Emperor Maximilian I. suddenly discovered the necessity for
+enacting a law, whereby the revenue arising from this traffic was
+transferred from the coffers of the church into those of the state,
+which, at the commencement of his reign, were not so likely to overflow
+from the addition.
+
+Wandering beneath the walls of Krems and Stein, we gazed with delight
+upon the beautifully situated monastery of Göttweih. A short distance
+from the right bank behind Mautern, this immense building stretched
+itself along the brow of a lofty, isolated mountain, clothed with
+waving woods, in the rich liveries of autumn, its countless windows
+splendidly illuminated by the descending sun. It dates no further back
+than the commencement of the eighteenth century, when it was built
+upon the site of an ancient kloster, originally founded by Altmann,
+Bishop of Passau, in 1083. There is a spring shown at the foot of
+the mountain, where this turbulent prelate, then only a student in
+theology, entered into a compact with Adalbert, afterwards Bishop of
+Wurzburg, and Gebhard, afterwards Bishop of Salzburg, by which they
+bound themselves to rise against the Emperor Henry IV., so soon as they
+should be appointed to their several sees!--an extraordinary agreement
+which they religiously fulfilled; and having succeeded in stirring up
+his own son to rebellion, compelled the unfortunate monarch, after a
+desperate struggle, to resign his crown at Ratisbon. Altmann, however,
+was not permitted to witness the triumph of his party; the enraged
+Emperor deprived him of his bishopric in 1085, and he died six years
+afterwards in exile at Zieselmauer.
+
+Below Stein the Danube forms another archipelago, and during the
+remainder of a lovely evening, we glided between the thickly-wooded
+islands, catching at long intervals a momentary glimpse of the
+red-tipped steeple of one of the many insignificant villages which here
+line the main banks of the river, now as flat and uninteresting as they
+were between Aschach and Ottensheim. The current at length leading us
+near the right bank, we passed the markt and ruin of Holenburg; the
+latter, during the fifteenth century, the stronghold of two redoubted
+pirates, named Frohnauer and Vettau,--Wagram, (not the famous Wagram,
+there are six Wagrams in Austria,) St. Georgen, where Ulrich, Bishop
+of Passau, in 1109-12, built a celebrated kloster called St. Georg auf
+der Insel and Trasenmauer, at the mouth of the river Trasen, where,
+according to the Nibelungen-lied, Etzel,
+
+                     “---- The King of Hunnen-land
+                      Had a Castle wide
+                      Y called Traisenmauer[80].”
+
+Nearly facing the mouth of the Trasen, the little river Kamp discharges
+itself into the Danube, and, on doubling a small point of land, the
+village of Zwentendorf  appeared on the right bank, and the mountains
+of the Wiener-Wald, arising in the distance, announced the vicinity of
+the capital. It was impossible, however, to reach it that evening, and
+therefore making for the little town of Tuln that lay directly before
+us in a sort of bay, we landed under the walls of a spacious building,
+the mutilated colossal statues of saints, prelates, and monarchs, in
+front of which, bore testimony to its former grandeur, and groping our
+way through a narrow passage, emerged into the court-yard behind it,
+where stood the wretched auberge, in which our steersman informed us
+we must pass the night. To our great relief, however, a red-elbowed,
+yellow-haired, blue-stockinged, round-about _mädchen_, seizing a
+candle and a huge bunch of keys, recrossed the court with us towards
+the great building, and opening a postern door, which Mrs. Radcliffe
+would have worshipped, led the way up a winding staircase into a long
+gallery, hung with paintings of martyrdoms and miracles, fubsy virgins,
+and chubby cherubs, fat abbots, and fair nuns; and ushered us into a
+wilderness of a chamber, furnished with one table and sixteen beds!
+The astonishment of our guide must be imagined when my companion
+requested yet another room. The idea of separate chambers never
+entering her head, she naturally enough supposed that sixteen beds
+would surely be sufficient for two persons. However, as there was no
+accounting for the whims of foreigners, and as no other travellers were
+likely to arrive, she found another apartment for my friend, containing
+nine beds, and, with a stare of amazement I shall not speedily forget,
+after furnishing us with some coffee and another candle, left us to
+sleep in any or all of our twenty-five beds, as we might eventually
+determine. On mentioning this circumstance afterwards to a Viennese, I
+was assured that, had a larger company arrived, the remaining fifteen
+beds in my chamber would have been unceremoniously occupied by men or
+women, as it might have happened; for, as he remarked to me, with the
+greatest coolness, “how would the poor people, who possess but two or
+three good rooms, be otherwise enabled to accommodate forty or fifty
+persons of both sexes, as they are frequently called upon to do?”
+Whether the building itself was the Nonnen-Kloster founded by Rudolph
+of Hapsburg, in gratitude for his victory over Ottocar, or the old
+Schloss, in which, every Monday, at midnight, the ghosts of a lady
+and her maid are in the habit of promenading[81], I am to this moment
+ignorant. If the latter, it being Thursday, the ghosts were not on
+duty. The Lady-Moon alone peeped through the long narrow casements; the
+murmur of the stream that ran rapidly beneath them, was the only sound
+that mingled with my dreams.
+
+
+                       FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER VII.)
+
+[65] This prodigy will remind the classical reader of the punishment of
+the Amazons, who attempted to cut down the sacred grove that shadowed
+the temple of Achilles in the island of Leuce. At the first blows they
+struck, the axe-heads flew from their handles, and laid the impious
+wielders dead upon the spot.
+
+[66] “Kurzer Bericht von dem Ursprung des wunderthätigen schmerzhaften
+Gnadenbildes Maria-Taferl.” There are numberless tracts of this
+description sold at Marbach to the pilgrims, who “hold each strange
+tale devoutly true.”
+
+[67] Fragmentum Historicum de quatuor Albertis--apud Pez. vol. ii. p.
+385.
+
+[68] The regular weekly passage-boats from Ulm, Regensburg, and
+Stadt-am-hof, to Vienna, are called “ordinari-schiffe.”
+
+
+[69] “Nie ward getreuer’r Degen geboren auf der Erde.” Nibelungen-lied.
+
+[70] “Die Fenster in den mauern, die sieht man offen stahn.” Ditto.
+
+[71] The supposed author of the Nibelungen-lied.
+
+[72] Nibelungen-lied, V. 1116-23.
+
+[73] “The castle was begun to be built by Jorig der Schekt-von-wald,
+the Monday after the nativity of our Lady, from the birth of Christ,
+the year 1228.” Herr Schultes remarks, that he may be mistaken in the
+date, and mentions that Petz, in his Chronicle of Mölk, (Part I. p.
+261) speaks of a Baron Schekh, whose deeds were as black as those laid
+at the _iron_ door of Schreckenwald, and who, in 1467, was besieged,
+and brought to such a pass, that “he,” says the chronicler, “who
+formerly was lord of six castles, perished in poverty.” This Schekh or
+Sheckt-von-Wald, as the name appears in the inscription, and the famous
+Schreckenwald, were, most probably, one and the same person; and from
+the state of the present building I should imagine it is more likely to
+have been built in the fifteenth than the thirteenth century.
+
+[74] Matthias Prideaux.
+
+[75] The present arms of the Archduchy of Austria, viz. Gules, a Fess
+argent, are derived from the circumstance of Leopold’s surcoat, which
+was of cloth of silver, being completely stained with blood at the
+siege of Ptolemais (Acre), with the exception of that part covered by
+the belt round his waist. The original bearings of Leopold were azure,
+six larks, or.
+
+[76] “Yes and No,” one of the many titles given to Richard by the
+Provençal poets:--
+
+               “And tell the Lord of Oc and No
+                That peace already too long hath been.”
+
+         Bertrand de Born. _Lays of the Minnesingers_, p. 233.
+
+[77] “The Troubadour and Richard Cœur de Lion.” Mrs. Hemans, though she
+mentions “the Danube’s wave” in the same poem, has chosen to lay the
+scene of Richard’s captivity on the Rhine. Her vivid fancy, however,
+has actually depicted the rock and castle of Dürrenstein.
+
+[78] In the cliff upon which this church stands, it is reported that a
+cavern has been found, which is the mouth of a subterraneous passage,
+communicating with the vaults of the castle.
+
+[79] Vie Politique et Militaire de Napoléon, par le Général Jominy.
+8vo. Paris, 1827, vol. ii. pp. 151-3.
+
+[80] Nibelungen-lied, V. 3533-5. It was the residence of his first
+Queen, Helke, a lady of incomparable virtue.
+
+[81] I believe I should say _were_, for the Antiquary of the Danube
+informs us, that the lady’s maid was exorcised by a “barefooted monk,”
+and quietly, I presume, laid in the Red Sea. The ghost of quality alone
+was untractable. This spirit, it appears, had been dismissed from the
+body by an enraged husband, at the moment of an awkward discovery.
+The whole history, says the prudent antiquary, is to be found in the
+archives of a certain noble house; but as it would redound to the
+prejudice of the descendants, should the name be made known, it has
+been passed over in silence. Some time ago an attempt was made to pull
+down the building, but the indignant phantom raised such a racket, that
+the workmen beat a retreat, and the project was abandoned.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ Tuln.--Langenlebern.--Greifenstein.--Story of Etelina.--Korneuburg.--
+ The Bisamberg.--Kloster Neuburg.--Leopoldsberg, and the Khalenberg.--
+ A glimpse of the capital.--Nusdorf.--Arrival at Vienna.--Bird’s-eye
+ view and description of the environs from the Temple of Glory in the
+ Brühl.
+
+
+The chronicler Hagen says, that before Vienna was built, Tuln was
+the capital of Austria. There is no doubt it was a place of some
+consequence even in the time of the Romans. In the year 1813, a great
+number of silver coins of the reigns of Vespasian, Domitian, Nerva,
+and Trajan, were found in its neighbourhood. Attila is said to have
+experienced a defeat here, and upwards of forty thousand Huns in one
+battle to have found “the way to dusty death.” Its authentic history
+commences, however, in the reign of Charlemagne, who gave the place
+to Passau in 803. Under the successors of Charlemagne, Tuln was the
+residence of their Grenz-Grafen, or Counts of the Border; and in 985,
+Henry II, Duke of Bavaria, held a Landtag or Assembly of the States
+at Tuln, at which the Duke of Carinthia, the Pfalzgraf Berchtold,
+the Markgraf of Austria, and the Counts of Bavaria, appeared, and
+decided the claim of the Bishop of Passau to a linn-fishery in the
+neighbourhood. The Hungarians, in the winter of 1042, surprised and
+burnt the town, but were, by the Markgraves Albert and Gottfried,
+repulsed and pursued over the Leytna; and the whole tract of country
+between Khalenberg and that river, was wrested from them for ever. In
+1592, Tuln became the asylum of those who fled before the triumphant
+Botskai, on whose head the minister of Achmet had placed the ancient
+diadem of the despots of Servia, and who, though he refused the
+proffered titles of King of Hungary and Prince of Transylvania,
+terrified the feeble Emperor Rodolph by planting the victorious
+standards of those revolted provinces within sight of the walls of
+Presburg.
+
+In 1683, the celebrated Sobieski joined, with his twenty-six thousand
+Poles, the troops collected here for the relief of Vienna, then
+invested by the Turks under Kara Mustapha. The Emperor Leopold, driven
+to despair, wrote himself to the King of Poland, imploring him to
+hasten to his assistance, without waiting for his army. “My troops,”
+said he, “are now assembling. The bridge over the Danube is already
+constructed at Tuln, to afford you a passage. Place yourself at their
+head, however inferior in number; your name alone, so terrible to the
+enemy, will ensure a victory!” Sobieski, flattered by this entreaty,
+issued orders to his army to follow him; and, at the head of thirty-one
+thousand horse, traversed Silesia and Moravia with the rapidity of a
+Tartar horde, but, on his arrival at Tuln, found the bridge unfinished,
+and no troops, except a corps under the Duke of Lorraine. “Does the
+Emperor consider me as an adventurer?” exclaimed the disappointed
+monarch. “I quitted my army to command his. It is not for myself, but
+for him, that I fight.” Pacified, however, by the representations of
+the Duke of Lorraine, he awaited the arrival of his own army, which
+reached the Danube on the 5th of September, and the junction of the
+German succours was completed on the 7th. Eight thousand Swabians
+and Franconians, twenty thousand Saxons and Bavarians, led by their
+Electors, swelled the allied German army to the number of sixty
+thousand men. On the night of the 11th, the preconcerted signals
+revived the spirits of the garrison and citizens of Vienna; and,
+on the morning of the memorable 12th of September, they descried,
+with rapture, the Christian standards floating on the summit of the
+Khalenberg!
+
+To the romantic traveller, Tuln is endeared as the spot where the
+mighty Etzel met his matchless bride. Four and twenty princes were in
+the train of this powerful monarch, and twelve of the noblest received
+the priceless guerdon of a kiss from the lips of Chrimhilt. Lances were
+shivered, and harps were swept, in honour of the day. A thousand marks
+rewarded the royal minstrels, Swemmel and Werbel, and the largess, to
+herald and serf, was worthy the hand of the richest and most powerful
+sovereign
+
+  “From the Rhone unto the Rhine--from the Elbe unto the sea.”
+
+With spirits elevated by a morning of unequalled beauty, and hearts
+throbbing with expectation, as every dip of the oar brought us nearer
+and nearer to the Austrian capital, the spires of which, we fondly
+imagined, would rise to our view at each new bend of the river, we
+floated down the broad and glittering stream, now clear of islands, and
+hurrying to bathe the craggy feet of the advancing Wiener-Wald.
+
+Passing the long straggling village of Langenlebern, or, as it is
+otherwise called, Ober and Unter Aigen, where there was formerly
+a considerable establishment of gold-washers, (the waves of the
+Danube, like those of Pactolus, rolling sands rich with grains of
+the precious metal,) the splendour of sunrise appeared to change the
+whole flood into molten ore, and realize the wildest dreams of those
+modern Chrysorrohæ[82]. Below Langenlebern, on the  right bank, is
+the ancient village of Zeiselmauer, (supposed to be the Cetia of the
+Romans,) and celebrated as the birth-place of our old acquaintance,
+St. Florian. Here, in 1092, the rebel Bishop of Passau, Altmann, died,
+as I have before mentioned, in exile. We now rapidly approached the
+Riederberge, or mountains of the Wiener-Wald, as the forest-covered
+hills, that here overlook the Danube and Vienna, are indifferently
+called. Fragments of this rocky chain now lined the right bank of the
+river, which, for the first time since our leaving Ratisbon, surpassed
+the left in boldness and beauty. On one of these fragments rose the
+ruin of Greifenstein, one of the oldest castles in Austria, now the
+property of Prince Lichtenstein, who, having a great fancy for ruins,
+expends considerable sums in keeping up such as yet stand upon his
+estates, and in building new ruins, where there is a deficiency of
+old. In the Priel, or Brühl, near Vienna, are several of these modern
+antiques, on which the venerable pile of the old family castle of
+Lichtenstein looks down, with as much contempt, as a resuscitated
+Norman crusader would upon his tinsel-clad theatrical representatives.
+Greifenstein was last ruined by the Swedes in 1645, and is one of the
+castles named as having been the prison of Richard Cœur de Lion; nay,
+they even show an iron cage here, in which he is said to have been
+cooped. The ruins are reported to be haunted by an old white woman, and
+a legion of
+
+                       “Black spirits and white,
+                        Red spirits and grey,”
+
+who do her awful bidding. This tradition has probably arisen from the
+circumstance of its last inhabitant having been an ancient gentlewoman,
+the Lady Bountiful of the neighbourhood, who devoted all her time
+to the cure of disorders, and was so generally successful in the
+treatment of her numerous patients, that she was at length suspected
+of possessing supernatural power. At her death, therefore, instead
+of canonizing her, as in duty bound, the ungrateful peasantry have
+converted the kind-hearted old lady, who was certainly “a spirit of
+health,” into “a goblin damned;” and they are less excusable, as the
+castle is not in want of such an attraction, the _terrein_ being
+already occupied by as romantic a spectre as ever revisited “the
+glimpses of the moon, making night hideous!” The legend indeed attached
+to those venerable walls, is one of the most interesting on the Danube,
+and I cannot account for its omission by the diligent Schultes. Thus it
+runs:--
+
+As early as the eleventh century the Lords of Greifenstein were famed
+and feared throughout Germany. One of the first knights who bore that
+name, lost his lady soon after she had presented him with a daughter,
+who received the name of Etelina. The dying mother, painfully aware
+how little attention would be paid to the education of a female by
+a rude and reckless father, half knight, half freebooter, however
+fond he might be of his child, had recommended her infant, with her
+last breath, to the care of a kind and pious monk, the chaplain of
+the castle; and under his affectionate guidance, the pretty playful
+girl gradually ripened into the beautiful and accomplished woman. Sir
+Reinhard of Greifenstein, though stern, turbulent, and unlettered
+himself, was, nevertheless, sensible to the charms and intelligence of
+his daughter; and often as he parted her fair hair and kissed her ivory
+forehead, before he mounted the steed or entered the bark, that waited
+to bear him to the hunt or the battle, a feeling of which he was both
+proud and ashamed would moisten his eye and subdue a voice naturally
+harsh and grating, into a tone almost of tenderness. On his return,
+weary and sullen, from a fruitless chase or a baffled enterprise, the
+song of Etelina could banish the frown from his brow, when even the
+wine-cup had been thrust untasted away, and the favourite hound beaten
+for a mistimed gambol. So fair a flower, even in the solitary castle
+of Greifenstein, was not likely to bloom unknown or unsought. The fame
+of Etelina’s beauty spread throughout the land. Many a noble knight
+shouted her name as his bright sword flashed from the scabbard, and
+many a gentle squire fought less for his gilt spurs, than the smile of
+Etelina. The minstrel who sang her praises had aye the richest largess,
+and the little-foot page who could tell where she might be met with
+in the summer’s twilight, clinging to the arm of the silver-haired
+chaplain, might reckon on a link of his master’s chain of gold for
+every word he uttered. But the powerful and the wealthy sighed at
+her feet in vain--she did not scorn them, for so harsh a feeling was
+unknown to the gentle Etelina. Nay, she even wept over the blighted
+hopes of some, whose fervent passion deserved a better fate; but her
+heart was no longer hers to give. She had fixed her affections upon the
+poor but noble Rudolph, and the lovers awaited impatiently some turn of
+fortune which would enable them to proclaim their attachment without
+fear of the anger and opposition of Sir Reinhard, who was considerably
+annoyed by Etelina’s rejection of many of the richest Counts and Barons
+of Germany.
+
+Business of importance summoned the old knight to the court of the
+Emperor. His absence, prolonged from month to month, afforded frequent
+opportunities of meeting to the lovers; and the venerable monk, on whom
+the entire charge of the castle and its inhabitants had devolved at
+Sir Reinhard’s departure, was one evening struck dumb with terror, by
+the confession which circumstances at length extorted from the lips of
+Etelina! Recovered from the first shock, however, his affection for his
+darling pupil seemed only increased, by the peril into which passion
+had plunged her. In the chapel of the castle, he secretly bestowed
+the nuptial benediction upon the imprudent pair, and counselled their
+immediate flight and concealment, till his prayers and tears should
+wring forgiveness and consent from Sir Reinhard, who was now on
+his return home, accompanied by a wealthy nobleman, on whom he had
+determined to bestow the hand of his daughter. Scarcely had Rudolph and
+Etelina reached the cavern in the neighbouring wilderness, selected
+for their retreat by the devoted old man, who had furnished them with
+provisions, a lamp and some oil, promising to supply them from time
+to time with the means of existence, as occasions should present
+themselves, when the rocks of the Danube rang with the well-known blast
+of Sir Reinhard’s trumpet, and a broad banner lazily unfolding itself
+to the morning breeze, displayed to the sight of the wakeful warden the
+two red griffins rampant in a field vert, the blazon of the far-feared
+Lords of Greifenstein[83]. In a few moments the old knight was galloping
+over the drawbridge, followed by his intended son-in-law.
+
+The clatter of their horses’ hoofs struck upon the heart of the
+conscious chaplain, as though the amimals themselves were trampling on
+his bosom; but he summoned up his resolution, and relying on his sacred
+character, met his master with a firm step and a calm eye, in the
+hall of the castle. Evading a direct answer to the first inquiry for
+Etelina, he gradually and cautiously informed Sir Reinhard of her love,
+her marriage, and her flight. Astonishment for a short space held the
+old warrior spell bound, but when his gathered fury at last found vent,
+the wrath of the whirlwind was less terrible. He seized the poor old
+monk by the throat, and upon his firm refusal to reveal the retreat of
+the culprits, dashed him to the earth, had him bound hand and foot, and
+flung into a pit beneath an iron grating in the floor of the donjon or
+keep of the castle[84]. Tearing, like an infuriated Pasha, “his very
+beard for ire,” he called down curses on Etelina and her husband, and
+prayed that, if ever he forgave them, a dreadful and sudden death might
+overtake him on the spot where he should revoke the malediction he now
+uttered! Upwards of a year had elapsed when, one winter-day, the knight
+of Greifenstein, pursuing the chase, lost his way in the mazes of a
+wilderness on the banks of the Danube. A savage-looking being, half
+clothed in skins, conducted him to a cavern, in which a woman similarly
+attired was seated on the ground, with an infant on her knees, and
+greedily gnawing the bones of a wolf.--Sir Reinhard recognised in the
+squalid form before him his once beautiful Etelina.--Shocked to the
+soul at the sight of the misery to which his severity had reduced her,
+he silently motioned to the huntsmen, who came straggling in upon
+his track to remove the wretched pair and their poor little offspring
+to the castle. Moved by the smiles of his innocent and unconscious
+grandchild, he clasped his repentant daughter to his bosom, as she
+re-crossed the threshold, bore her up into the banquet-hall, and
+consigning her to the arms of her faithful Rudolph, hastened down
+again to release with his own hands the true-hearted monk, who still
+languished in captivity. In descending the steep staircase, his
+foot slipped, and he was precipitated to the bottom--his fall was
+unseen--his cry was unheard--dying, he dragged himself a few paces
+along the pavement, and expired upon the very spot where he had just
+embraced and forgiven his daughter. Rudolph, now Lord of Greifenstein,
+restored the chaplain to liberty, and lived long and happily with his
+beloved Etelina; but the spirit of Sir Reinhard to this day wanders
+about the ruins of his ancestral castle, and will continue so to do
+till the stone whereon he expired shall be worn in twain. “Alas! poor
+ghost!” the very slight hollow which is at present perceivable in it,
+affords you little hope of its division by fair means previously to
+the general “_crack_ of doom.”
+
+Near the village of Höfelein, the river suddenly wheels to the south,
+and the last grand picture of the series opens before you. On the left
+is the little town of Korneuburg, backed by the vine-covered Bisamberg,
+and embosomed in beautiful groves and orchards. On the right, arise
+the gilded domes of Kloster-Neuburg, and far above them, in the blue
+distance, tower the colossal Khalenberge, “the watchmen of Vienna,”
+crowned with their churches, and terminating a chain of alps and
+mountains, that, stretching across Southern Europe, links the Danube
+with the Gulph of Genoa. There was something peculiarly exciting in
+the scene. I was floating upon waves that were rushing to the Euxine,
+and gazing upon a line of hills that extended to the Mediterranean.
+I could almost fancy the clash of Turkish cymbals, mingled with the
+murmur of the water, while the sound of mandolin and castagnet was
+faintly wafted on the breeze from the land. The former flight may, at
+least, be forgiven me in such a situation; for these shores have but
+too often echoed the wild marches of the Ottoman, and the trembling
+waves reflected the glittering crescent. The black horse-tails of many
+a proud Pasha have streamed insultingly from yonder heights, the sable
+heralds of death and desolation. The “high-capped Tartar” has here
+“spurred his steed away,” and the shout of
+
+  “God and the Prophet!--Allah hu!”
+
+shaken like an earthquake the throne of the Cæsars.
+
+Korneuburg is the seat of the Kreis-amtes for the quarter of
+Unter-Manhardsberg. In 1306, it was the scene of one of those horrid
+massacres, which invariably, during the middle ages, cancelled the
+debts of Christendom to the House of Israel. The same blasphemous
+falsehood, which thirty years afterwards deluged the streets of
+Deggendorf with Hebrew blood, was here made the pretence for burning
+alive all the unfortunate Jews in the place. The Emperor Frederick
+IV. here met his deliverer, George Podiebrad, King of Bohemia, A.D.
+1462, whose prompt assistance compelled Albert of Austria, the
+Emperor’s brother, to raise the siege of Vienna, (in the citadel of
+which Frederick was shut up with only two hundred men,) to restore
+the towns, fortresses and countries he had taken possession of during
+this unnatural contest, and pay an annual sum of four thousand
+ducats to the Emperor for the government of Lower Austria. In 1477,
+Korneuburg was besieged by Matthias Corvinus; and the brave Austrian
+commandant, Enenkel, received his death-wound from an arrow that
+entered an embrasure through which he was reconnoitring the enemy. It
+was again besieged by Corvinus in 1484, and stood out till the very
+vermin of the town became the food of the famished garrison; and in
+the seventeenth century, the Swedes, who had taken and shut themselves
+up in the place, after an equally stubborn resistance, capitulated
+upon honourable terms. On the Bisamberg, which rises behind it, are
+the finest vineyards in the neighbourhood of Vienna. The wine they
+yield is considered the best of what are called the Danube wines; the
+next in celebrity are Kloster-Neuburger, Grinzinger, (a very pleasant
+wine,) Maurer, and Brunner, all grown on the right bank. On the summit
+of the Bisamberg, formerly stood the old castle of the knights of
+Pucinperche, or Busenberge, and near it rises the little Büsenbach,
+that ripples through three channels into the Danube. At its foot is
+Lang-Enzersdorf, the first post station from Vienna on the road to
+Prague. Part of Kara-Mustapha’s army crossed the Danube here during the
+siege of Vienna, and reduced the place to ashes. Nearly opposite to
+Lang-Enzersdorf, stands the unfinished but magnificent Kloster-Neuburg,
+and the little town to which it has given its name[85]. The Kloster was
+originally founded by Leopold the Saint, in consequence of his wife’s
+veil, which had been blown away as she was walking on the Khalenberg,
+being wafted to this spot, and discovered some time after, hanging
+on an elder-tree, by one of the Markgraf’s hounds!--So miraculous
+and interesting an occurrence was deemed worthy of commemoration. A
+convent was immediately built and endowed by the pious Markgraf; and
+the monks enshrined the elder-tree in gold wire-work, and imitated its
+blossoms with pearls[86]. Our boat now passed under the precipices of
+the Leopoldsberg. The two last mountains of the Wiener-Wald have both
+received the appellation of Khalenberg or Kalte-Berg. But the ancient
+Khalenberg is now known by the name of the Leopoldsberg, and by the
+Khalenberg is generally understood the former: Josephsberg, the second
+mountain from the bank of the Danube.
+
+On the summit of the present Leopoldsberg, originally stood the Castle
+of Leopold the Saint; and from that castle, long before Vienna was
+built, the Markgraf issued to hunt in the neighbouring forests, and
+sometimes pursued his game over the plain whereon the capital of
+Austria now spreads its interminable suburbs. In 1291, Albert I., Duke
+of Austria, sought refuge in this fortress from the revolted citizens
+of Vienna; and summoning reinforcements  from Swabia, cut off all
+aid and provisions from the rebels, and compelled them at last to an
+unconditional surrender. The principal magistrates came bare-headed and
+bare-footed, to his camp, and in their presence he tore up the charters
+of the city, and abrogated all those privileges which he deemed
+injurious to his authority. During the reign of Albert III., the castle
+fell into decay, and lay in ruins nearly fifty years, when it was
+rebuilt by Albert V. Ruined again by the wars of the fifteenth century,
+the Emperor Leopold I. determined to erect upon its site a chapel,
+in honour of his ancestor and patron. Before the work was completed,
+however, the Turks had burst into Austria, and during the siege of
+Vienna, destroyed the unfinished chapel as well as the few remaining
+walls of the old castle. The Saxons, who fought in the left wing of
+the army of relief, carried the Turkish positions on this mountain by
+storm, and drove them with much slaughter out of the ruins in which
+they had entrenched themselves. On the flight of the infidels, Leopold
+recommenced building his chapel, but it was finished by his son Charles
+VI., under the superintendence of the Italian architect Beluzzi, who
+also built a palace near it by the Emperor’s order, and twelve years
+afterwards erected the present church upon the site of the chapel.
+The monks of Kloster-Neuburg, who had installed themselves in these
+edifices, were afterwards expelled by Joseph II.[87], and the church
+and palace became the property of Prince de Ligne, the historian. His
+highness considerably improved the grounds about it, and it has become
+a favourite resort of the Viennese, who flock up the mountain on a fine
+summer day, to enjoy the magnificent prospect from its summit, or from
+the little Belvedere that overhangs the Danube. On  the outside of the
+building in which the prince resided, are several inscriptions; amongst
+others his favourite motto,
+
+           “Quo res cumque cadunt, semper stat linea recta;”
+
+and the words
+
+                       “Château de mon refuge.”
+
+On the side facing the Danube are the following truly French lines, in
+allusion to the various fortunes which have attended the building.
+
+      “Margraves, Polonais, Turcs et Saints, tour à tour,
+      Rendirent autrefois célèbre ce séjour;
+      C’est à présent celui de la philosophie,
+      Du calme de l’esprit, du bonheur de la vie.
+      Notre ame s’aggrandit par des grands souvenirs,
+      _Mais la meilleure histoire est celui des plaisirs_.
+      Sans remords, sans regrets, sans crainte et sans envie
+      La nature se montre en son bel appareil
+      Et l’on se croit ici favori du soleil.”
+
+On the ceiling of the Belvedere is inscribed
+
+                     “Optimis Vindobonensibus
+                      Carolus Princeps de Ligne.”
+
+On the Khalenberg, as the Josephsberg is now called, stands what was
+formerly a monastery, founded by Ferdinand II. in 1628. Leopold I.
+re-established it after the siege of Vienna; Joseph I. enlarged, and
+Joseph II. suppressed it. Like the building on the Leopoldsberg, it was
+purchased by the Prince de Ligne, and is a point of _réunion_ for the
+holiday makers of the capital.
+
+Below the Leopoldsberg, the Danube is divided into three large
+branches, and on entering the southern branch the great dark spire of
+St. Stephen’s suddenly appeared between the trees on the left bank,
+and other spires and domes gliding gradually into view, we looked at
+length upon Vienna! Impatiently did we pace the bank at Nussdorf, a
+little village on the right of the stream, about an hour’s journey
+from the walls of the city, where all boats are obliged to stop till
+passports are examined, and permission given to proceed to what is
+called the Schanzel landing-place, near the Ferdinand’s Brüche (Bridge
+of Ferdinand.) Nearly an hour and a half were we detained at this
+place, within sight of the goal we were burning to reach. The papers at
+length arrived; our crew once more plied their paddles, and through the
+crowd of boats moored on each side of the river, we advanced slowly,
+catching occasional glimpses of new buildings and towers, as they
+appeared between the tall stacks of firewood that line the banks of
+this arm of the Danube. Suddenly we found ourselves under the walls
+of the city, and about twenty minutes afterwards, having followed a
+custom-house officer to the _mauth_ of the Schanzel, where our baggage
+underwent strict examination, we entered the gates, the way to our
+hotel being marshalled by a good-natured Italian, who had volunteered
+his services at the custom-house. Previously, however, to quitting the
+boat, the three poor women, whom we had taken on board at Marsbach,
+perceiving their journey ended, requested to know what they had to
+pay. On being, with some difficulty, made to understand that they were
+perfectly welcome to their passage, their joy was extravagant. They
+clapped their own hands, and kissed ours repeatedly, (the usual mode
+of expressing thanks in Austria,) and with a chorus of “Das ist schön!
+Das ist schön[88]!” shouldered their heavy bundles, and shuffled away in
+high glee.
+
+Preceded by our Italian guide, and followed by the two steersmen and
+their crew carrying our luggage, we bustled  through the crowded
+streets of Vienna, and crossing the square, in the centre of which
+stands the fine old cathedral of St. Stephen, entered the Weyburg
+Gasse, and were soon comfortably installed in the Hotel of the
+Kaiserinn von Osterreich (the Empress of Austria.) Gentle reader, I
+have now landed you, with myself, safely in Vienna. Do not imagine,
+because I have been, perhaps, tediously minute in my descriptions up to
+this period, that I am about to enter upon a long-winded geographical,
+statistical, historical account of “the habitation of the Cæsars.”
+We are now upon beaten ground, and even presuming that you are
+unacquainted with it, there are dozens of guides much better calculated
+to do the honours and show the lions of Vienna than your humble servant.
+
+I shall therefore take the liberty, before I make my final bow, and
+hand you over to the acute Russel, the pleasant Ramblers in Germany,
+either military or musical--the caustic author of ‘Austria as it is,’
+or any other intelligent tourist--to waft you at once to the pinnacle
+of a steep hill in that gorge of the Wienerwald called the Brühl or
+the Priel, behind the very ancient and picturesque little town of
+Möhdling. There you are--on the steps of the “Temple of Glory,” a
+handsome Doric building erected by the present Prince Lichtenstein to
+the memory of the brave hussars who rescued him, at the expense of
+their lives, from the French in the battle of Wagram. On the wall of
+a vault, beneath the building, where their bodies are deposited, is
+the following affecting inscription:--“Softly repose upon this height,
+precious remains of the valiant Austrian warriors, who fell, covered
+with glory, at Aspern and Wagram. Your friend is not able to reanimate
+the lifeless bodies. To honour them is his duty[89].”
+
+As he turns from perusing these lines, as honourable to the dictator
+of them as to the brave men to whom they allude, the moistened eye of
+the stranger wanders over the immense prospect below him, and falls
+upon the very scene of their valour and their death. Yonder stretches
+the wide plain upon which the fate of Austria has been twice decided.
+Rudolph of Hapsburg, the founder of its noble house, there wrested the
+duchy and the crown: of the empire from Ottokar, king of Bohemia, on
+August 26th, A.D. 1278.
+
+On the 5th of July, five hundred and thirty-one years afterwards, the
+descendant of Rudolph saw that duchy and crown at the mercy of an
+adventurer, who had, for the second time, driven him from his capital,
+and now threatened the utter extinction of his dynasty. There is the
+celebrated island of Lobau, out of which, after its critical escape,
+the French army crossed the Danube amid night and storm, by the
+dreadful light of the blazing town of Enzersdorf, into the plain of
+Morava, the destined arena of that decisive combat.
+
+      “All was prepared--the fire, the sword, the men
+      To wield them in their terrible array.
+      The army, like a lion from his den,
+      Marched forth with nerve and sinews bent to slay,--
+      A human Hydra, issuing from its fen
+      To breathe destruction on its winding way.
+
+         *       *       *       *       *
+
+      The night was dark, and the thick mist allowed
+      Nought to be seen save the artillery’s flame,
+      Which arched the horizon like a fiery cloud,
+      And in the Danube’s waters shone the same--
+      A mirrored Hell! The volleying roar, and loud
+      Long booming of each peal on peal, o’ercame
+      The ear far more than thunder, for Heaven’s flashes
+      Spare or smite rarely--Man’s make millions ashes!”
+
+                         +Don Juan+, Canto 8, st. 2. 6.
+
+There are the little villages of Essling, Aspern, and Wagram, whose
+names, like those of the still more insignificant hamlets of Blenheim
+and Waterloo, are ineffaceably inscribed on the tablets of Fame, though
+scarcely to be distinguished in the map of Europe. Do you mark that
+white building a little on this side of the city, looking, from the
+height on which we stand, like the card-house of an infant? The sun now
+falls upon something like a triumphal arch, on an elevation immediately
+behind it--that is Schönbrunn, with its well-known Gloriette. In that
+palace, is a fair-haired boy, the son of the victor in that terrible
+fight, and of the daughter of the vanquished. To that fight he owes
+his existence. Its issue enabled a low-born Corsican to dictate terms
+to one of the most powerful monarchs in the world, and mingle his
+blood with that of a line of emperors. Let us turn from these scenes
+of strife and “vaulting ambition, which o’erleaps itself,” to the
+forest-covered hills around, and the lovely vallies beneath us. At
+the foot of that mountain lie the sulphur-baths of Baden, and beside
+them opens the beautiful Helen-thal, at the mouth of which resides the
+brave and popular Archduke Charles, the gallant, though unsuccessful,
+opponent of Napoleon. His chateau is named Wildburg, in honour of
+his Archduchess, a princess of the House of Nassau-Wildburg. There
+is scarcely any garden-ground belonging to it, and he, therefore,
+good-naturedly makes a garden of the whole valley, and gives the public
+the benefit of it.
+
+Every morning, during the season, the visiters of this fashionable
+watering-place flock by dozens to a farm-house, belonging to the
+Baron von Dopplehof, where they eat the best bread in Europe, and sip
+coffee, diluted with most delicious milk, furnished by fifty Styrian
+cows, all of that light dun colour which particularly distinguishes
+the race. The day is divided between the bath and the shades of the
+Helen-thal; and, as evening advances, the gay groups saunter back
+along the banks of the rivulet that brawls through this romantic glen,
+and drop leisurely into the pretty little theatre of Baden. Russel
+has drawn an animated and faithful picture of this spot. I shall,
+therefore, only mention a ridiculous circumstance which occurred here
+a few years ago. The old wooden bridge over the rivulet I have just
+mentioned, had been replaced by one of cast iron; and the completion
+of this work being an important era for the little town, a procession
+was formed to open the bridge, and the whole neighbourhood collected on
+and round it to witness the ceremony. One of the Archdukes (Anthony,
+I believe) headed the cortege, and, after it had passed over, the
+burgomaster, standing in the centre of the bridge, harangued the
+spectators. His speech was a model for succeeding burgomasters, to
+fashion their orations by. The crowd pressed nearer and nearer to
+listen, and be edified. The worthy officer warmed with his subject;
+he became absolutely figurative. “Our gratitude, our attachment
+(exclaimed he, in a transport of loyalty) to the illustrious House of
+Hapsburg, shall remain firm and unshaken as this bridge!” but, before
+he had well finished his sentence, down went bridge, burgomaster,
+and audience, into the water. Whether naturally sinking under the
+weight of the crowd, or kicked down by Lucifer himself, who, a rebel
+from the first, might have enjoyed the consternation attendant on so
+ominous a coincidence, remains to be determined. A clumsy bridge of
+stone now spans the little stream of the Schwächat. To the left, almost
+immediately beneath us, upon a green knoll, surrounded by gardens,
+stands the venerable ruin of Lichtenstein, the castle of the ancient
+princes of that name; and, facing it, the modern chateau of their
+descendants. The old walls are in good preservation, and the various
+apartments clearly distinguishable. The chamber of justice, into
+which the criminal was drawn up by a rope from the prison beneath it,
+through a hole in the floor; the prison itself, with its iron rings
+and staples; and the banquet hall, now hung with full-length portraits
+of the family, (none of them, by the way, painted earlier than the
+sixteenth century, though some profess to represent persons who lived
+in the fourteenth,) are all exceedingly interesting. Beyond it, on the
+bank of the river, lies the broad city, the huge cathedral shooting
+up its dark spire in the centre. From a grated window in that spire,
+the faithful Starrhemberg saw the sun rise every morning upon that vast
+plain, whitened with the tents of the Moslem, and watched night after
+night for the joyful signals of relief. They rose at length. From those
+heights, the gallant Sobieski rushed upon the panic-stricken Vizier,
+who, abandoning his camp and his treasures to the victorious Pole,
+fled like a tiger baffled in his spring. On the high road to Carinthia
+and Italy, that runs parallel with this chain of mountains, you may
+observe a slender Gothic cross, that is to say, one of those crocketted
+pyramids, surmounted with a small cross, which are so called, and to be
+seen in many of our own market towns. It is the Spinnerinn-am-Kreutz,
+and, according to the legend, marks the spot on which a maiden vowed
+to sit and spin till her lover returned from the holy land. Smile not
+so contemptuously; if you are proof against “a ballad in print,” there
+is also an historical interest attached to that lonely monument. It
+commemorates the retreat of Solyman the Magnificent, and the valour of
+an ancestor of the princely House of Schwartzenburg. For thirty days,
+
+  “Amid the vale below,
+   Tents rose, and streamers play’d,
+   And javelins sparkled in the sun,
+   And multitudes encamped,
+   Swarmed far as eye could follow o’er the plain;
+   There, in his war-pavilion, sat,
+   In council with his chiefs,
+   The Sultan of the Land!”
+
+Foiled in every assault by the skill of the commandant, Nicholas
+Count of Salm, by the courage of the garrison, and the loyalty of the
+burghers, the advance of winter, and the dread of approaching succours,
+compelled him to raise the siege, and to retreat to Buda, A.D. 1529.
+
+Still farther eastward lies the little village of Laxendorf, with
+the summer palace and gardens of Laxenburg, a favourite retreat of
+the Emperor, and something between the well-known Petit-Trianon at
+Versailles, and the grander Wilhelmshöe at Hessen-Cassel. Inferior to
+them both in situation, it combines many of their separate attractions:
+there are the rustic bridges, and Swiss cottages of the former, and
+the modern antique castle of the latter. Instead of the splendid
+waterworks of Wilhelmshöe, you must be contented, however, with the
+calm, clear lakes of Laxendorf, in which myriads of enormous carp
+battle for the large crusts flung to them by the guide, their scaly
+armour glittering in the sun, like
+
+  “Mingled metal damasked o’er with gold.”
+
+In the centre of one of these lakes rises an island fortress. At a
+given signal a boat pushes off from the watergate, you are ferried
+over, and enter the court-yard of the building, which is fitted
+up in strict conformity to the taste of the middle ages. Like the
+Lowenburg at Wilhelmshoe, all the furniture of this fortress is really
+antique--the carved oaken ceilings and wainscots having been brought
+from suppressed monasteries and demolished castles. The beds, chairs,
+tables, etc., collected in a similar manner, are also extremely curious.
+Around the skirting-board of one of the apartments on the ground floor,
+is a most interesting painting of a procession to the lists, of the
+time of Maximilian I., and resembling in some degree the prints of
+his “Triumph” by Hans Burgmair. The heralds and pursuivants, habited
+alternately in the colours of the empire and the duchy, are followed
+by the Emperor himself, armed at all points for the tournament, and
+twenty or thirty knights, riding in couples, their ponderous tilting
+helmets crested and garlanded in the elaborate German fashion, and
+their horses splendid with engraved chanfrons and emblazoned housings.
+The procession is closed by the priest and the surgeon, and the
+Todtwagen, or hearse to carry away the slain champions! A long narrow
+gallery, on the highest floor of the building, hung with the costumes
+of all the European nations during the sixteenth century, leads to a
+dimly-lighted, unfurnished turret-chamber, the only ornaments of which
+are three small half-length portraits of Phillip II. of Spain, his
+queen Isabel, and his unfortunate son Don Carlos. The gloom of the
+chamber, its desolate appearance, so opposite to that of the other
+apartments, which are profusely decorated and furnished; the three
+pale faces of the principal actors in that most dreadful of domestic
+tragedies, glaring at one another from the opposite walls, send a cold
+shudder through your frame; and you hasten from the spot, as though
+murder had been freshly committed there, and the dark shadow of the
+retiring assassin was yet gliding along the floor of the adjacent
+gallery! The Knight’s Castle, as that building is called, has also its
+state apartments; its chamber of justice; its prison with a puppet
+prisoner, (the only piece of bad taste about it,[90]) and its armoury.
+The latter contains some handsome fluted and embossed suits, but
+nothing particularly ancient[91]; throughout Germany, the richest suit
+of armour, whatever may be its date, is invariably appropriated to the
+Emperor Maximilian, though in the same collection; and standing next to
+it, is a suit which probably did belong to him, or, at least, is of the
+same period. From the Knight’s Castle, you are led to  the Knight’s
+Chapel, his tilt-yard, and his farm; the upper apartments of the latter
+are filled with ancient cabinets, paintings, and curiosities of every
+description. Laxendorf is first mentioned by old Minnesänger Tanhuser,
+who, having wandered from land to land, and from court to court, and
+seen, as he himself informs us, Crete, Jerusalem, Cyprus, Normandy,
+Antioch, Coblenz (!), Rome, and Pisa, came to Vienna during the reign
+of the Emperor Frederick II., who highly patronized him, and gave him a
+residence in the capital, and other property in its neighbourhood.
+
+      “Zu Wiene hat ich einen Hof
+       Der lag so rechte schöne;
+       Lupolzdorf was darzuo min
+       Das lit (liegt) bi _Luchse_ nahen;
+       Ze Hinperg hat ich schöne guot,” etc.
+
+Laxendorf, lying close by Leopoldsdorf and Himperg, is evidently the
+Luchse of our fortunate Minnesänger; and, towards the close of the
+thirteenth century, we find the name of one Pertold, of Lachsindorf.
+In 1330, Albert II., surnamed the Lame, Duke of Austria, possessed a
+castle at Lachsindorf, and Duke Albert III., “with the tress,” built
+a new castle upon the site of the old one, and had the magnificent
+furniture and valuable antiquities which had previously adorned Saint
+Leopold’s castle on the Khalenberg, removed to this place, which became
+his favourite residence; where, shaking off as much as possible the
+cares of sovereignty and secular pomp, he worked in the garden with his
+own hands, and, studying Palladius on rural economy, amused himself
+with planting and horticulture. Its marshy situation, however, is
+supposed to have shortened the life of this amiable prince. Seized,
+during an expedition into Bohemia, with a mortal disorder, of which
+he had here laid the foundation, he was conveyed back in haste to
+Laxendorf, and died on the 29th of August, 1395, aged forty-six, amid
+the lamentations of the citizens of Vienna, who crowded round his
+corse, exclaiming, “We have lost our friend, our true father!”
+
+In 1683, the Turks laid Laxendorf in ashes. It was rebuilt by the
+Emperor Leopold I.; and his son Charles IV., in his brown surtout and
+bag-wig, here delighted to “bait the heron.” Joseph II. turned the
+old blaue-haus[92], which was formerly the falconry, into the imperial
+residence. The Gothic toy on the lake owes its existence to a whim of
+the late Empress of Austria.
+
+But the sun is fast descending behind us--his last rays are lighting
+up the boundless prospect. Let me take advantage of them to point out
+to you the only remaining object of interest in the picture: on that
+gray conical hill, that, dimly looming on the verge of the horizon,
+might almost be mistaken for a cloud, stands the castle of Presburg;
+at its foot lies the capital of Hungary, and past it hurries the broad
+Danube, widening, deepening, and strengthening, as it flows, wheeling
+to the south round the walls of Buda, washing those of Belgrade, and
+bearing the tributes of the Save, the Drave, the Teiss, and the Pruth,
+through the swamps of Bess-Arabia into the dark Euxine. At the moment I
+am speaking, the eyes of  all Europe are bent in the same direction.
+The cannon has been fired that may shake the peace of the world. The
+flames that are kindling on the shores of the Black Sea may spread
+to the mouths of the Mississippi. But I have neither the talent nor
+the ambition to be a politician or a prophet; and so farewell, gentle
+reader: the bugles of the peaceful herdsmen, saluting some returning
+visiters of Baden, shall “sing truce” to our warlike speculations, for
+
+      “The night cloud has lower’d,
+       And sentinel stars set their watch in the sky.”
+
+It is time to hurry down from the Temple of Glory, and return to the
+gay city. Go lounge upon the bustling and brilliant Graben--gaze upon
+the pyrotechnics of the Prater, or laugh in the little theatre of
+Leopoldstadt--seek the Glacis, the Volksgarten, or the Opera. I leave
+you with this conviction, that if I have only been fortunate enough to
+induce you to descend the Danube to Vienna, there is little doubt of
+obtaining your pardon for any failure in my attempt to amuse you on
+your way.
+
+
+                       FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER VIII.)
+
+[82] Much gold has really been found in the sands of the Danube, the
+Inn, and the Iser, and several _gold-waschereys_, as they are called,
+have formerly existed on the banks of these rivers. The peculiar wealth
+of the sands at Langenlebern has been accounted for, by the peasantry,
+from the circumstance of Draculf, Bishop of Freysing, being drowned off
+this bank, A.D. 926, and carrying down with him forty pounds weight
+of gold, which he had smuggled out of the Kloster of Mosburg, and had
+secured in his girdle!
+
+[83] On some old weapons in the Rüstkammer or armoury of the castle,
+the arms of the house of Greifenstein are yet to be seen so blazoned.
+
+[84] A square hole in the earth with an iron grating over it is still
+shown here as the place of confinement of some clergyman, who shared
+his crust with a young snake, that thrived so wonderfully upon prison
+allowance, that self-preservation at last compelled him to kill it
+while asleep with a stick, that is also shown in the dungeon.
+
+[85] It was originally called Neuenburg, Neuenburch, and Niwenburg, and
+appears to have been strongly fortified.
+
+[86] Albert IV., Duke of Austria, died here on the 14th of September,
+1404, in the twenty-seventh year of his age; and the Empress Wilhelmina
+Amelia, widow of Joseph I., also ended her days here in April 1742.
+
+[87] This Emperor, who, to use his own words, “with the best
+intentions, never carried a single project into execution,” in his
+laudable attempts to purify religion from the dregs of superstition,
+reduced the number of convents in Austria from two thousand and
+twenty-four, to seven hundred. Vide Coxe’s _History of the House of
+Austria_. The learned Archdeacon has justly and eloquently described
+the character of the kind-hearted but inconsistent Joseph; but I am at
+a loss to know why a Christian minister should include the following
+ordinance amongst “the _childish_ and _ridiculous_ regulations” of
+the Emperor. “Thou shalt forbear all occasions of dispute relative to
+matters of faith; and thou shalt, according to the true principles of
+Christianity, affectionately and kindly treat those who are not of thy
+communion.” (Ord. October 24, 1781.)
+
+[88] “That’s fine!” or, as we should say, “capital.”
+
+[89] “Ruhet sanft auf diesen höhen edle gebeine tapferer Oesterreichs
+Krieger; Ruhm bedeckt bey Aspern und Wagram gefallen vermag euer freund
+nicht, die entseelten leichname zu beleben; sie zu ehren ist seine
+pflicht.”
+
+[90] Yes, there is another. On the gates of the castle are daubed two
+sentinels armed cap à pied! Forcibly recalling to my memory the figures
+painted in the sentry-boxes, which were wont to delight and terrify me
+when an urchin, and cause many a clandestine expedition to Bayswater
+tea-gardens.
+
+[91] The oldest piece of armour I have seen in Germany, is in the
+collection at the Lowenburg, at Wilhelmshöe. It is a moveable visor of
+the close of the fourteenth century; but both possessors and exhibitors
+are evidently ignorant of its value and antiquity.
+
+[92] “Blue-House,”--this, however, is a corruption. The name of
+Blaue-Haus is derived, not from the ancient colour of its walls, as
+the vulgar suppose, but from the family of Plauenstein, its original
+possessors.
+
+
+
+
+                                 NAMES
+
+                                OF THE
+
+          CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc.
+
+                                ON THE
+
+                         BANKS OF THE DANUBE,
+
+                       FROM RATISBON TO VIENNA.
+
+
+                    *RIGHT BANK.*    ⇊    *LEFT BANK.*
+       +Regensburg+ _or_ +Ratisbon+. ⇊ Stadt-am-Hof.
+                                     ⇊ Reinhausen.
+                                     ⇊ Weichs.
+                         St. Nicola. ⇊ Schwabelweiss.
+              Einhausen or Bürgelut. ⇊ Tegernheim.
+                           Irlmauth. ⇊
+                           Kreuzhof. ⇊ Donaustauf. (Ruin.)
+                            Barbing. ⇊ Reifelding. St.Salvator.
+                                     ⇊ Sulzbach.
+                           Sarching. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Demling.
+                         Nassenhart. ⇊ Bach.
+                          Friesheim. ⇊ Frenghofen.
+                           Ilkhofen. ⇊ Kruckenberg. Ettersdorf.
+                     Altach. Auburg. ⇊ Kirfenholz.
+                            Eltheim. ⇊
+                          Gaissling. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Gieffen.
+                       Seppenhausen. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Oberachdorf. Wiesent.
+     1st Post Station from} Pfätter. ⇊
+                Regensburg}          ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Wörth (Chateau.)
+                                     ⇊ Hungerdorf.
+                                     ⇊ Tiefenthal.
+                     Griefau. Gmund. ⇊ Keesel. Hochdorf.
+                           Herrfurt. ⇊
+                             Irling. ⇊ Heiligen Blut or Niederach.
+                                     ⇊ Bogen or Hagenhof.
+                           Aholfing. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Sinzendorf.
+                                     ⇊ Pondorf.
+                                     ⇊ Zeitsdorf or Zeitlarn.
+                                     ⇊ Weihern.
+                                     ⇊ Beichsee. Kirchenroth.
+              (Ruin.) Ober and Unter ⇊ Pittrich. Neidau.
+                            Motzing. ⇊
+                        Landersdorf. ⇊ Kössnach. Pfaffenmünster.
+                       Breitenfield. ⇊ Hartzeitdorn.
+               Einhausen.  Rinkheim. ⇊ Sossau.
+                             Eberau. ⇊
+                        Moosklagers. ⇊ Sossauer Beschlacht.
+                                     ⇊ Hormannsdorf or Hornsdorf
+ 2nd Post Station from}              ⇊
+   Regensburg         } +Straubing.+ ⇊ Thurmhof.
+                          Atzelburg. ⇊ Ober and Unter Parkstetten.
+                                     ⇊ Reibersdorf.
+                    Hochstätter Hof. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Lenach.
+           Aiterhofen. Ittling. Ober ⇊
+                    and Unter Ebling ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Ober-Altaich. (Kloster.)
+                  Hundersdorf. Saut. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Bogen and the Bogenberg.
+                                     ⇊  (Ruin.)
+                             Absarn. ⇊
+                        Hermansdorf. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Hüttenhof. Hofweinzier.
+                                     ⇊ Holzkirch.
+                                     ⇊ Anning. Dörfl.
+               Einbrach or Kinbrach. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Pfelling.
+             Mitterdorf. Hindeldorf. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Linzing. Esper. Weichenberg.
+                    Endau or Zengau. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Allkofen.
+                                     ⇊ Albertskirchen.
+                                     ⇊ Petzendorf.
+             Strasskirchen. Irlbach. ⇊ Wallendorf.
+                              Loche. ⇊ Rafer or Asperhof.
+                        Wischelberg. ⇊ Aichach.
+                                     ⇊
+                   Stephan-Posching. ⇊ Maria-Posching.
+                         Uttenkofen. ⇊ Hundeldorf.
+                          Steinfurt. ⇊ Sommersdorf.
+                       Steinkirchen. ⇊ Klein-Schwarzach.
+                           Bergheim. ⇊ Ziedeldorf. Offenberg.
+                                     ⇊ Neuhausen.
+                                     ⇊ Himmelberg.
+                        Metten Ufer. ⇊ Metten. (Kloster.)
+                 (Ruin) Natternberg. ⇊ Helfkam.
+                        Fischerdorf. ⇊ Schäching.
+                                     ⇊ Deggendorf.
+                                     ⇊ Deggenau.
+  3d Post Station from} Plattling on ⇊
+            Regensburg}     the Inn. ⇊ Halbe-Meile-Kirche.
+                         Isragemünd. ⇊ Seebach.
+                                     ⇊ Reit.
+                                     ⇊ Helmdorf.
+                                     ⇊ Unter Schwarzach.
+                                     ⇊ Hengersberg. (Ruin.)
+                           Thundorf. ⇊ Nieder Altaich. (Kloster.)
+                                     ⇊ Alten Ufer.
+                                     ⇊ Gindlau.
+                              Aicha. ⇊
+                Haardorf. Kreuzberg. ⇊
+                   Säge. Münchsdorf. ⇊
+                Osterhofen. Mulheim. ⇊ Winzer. Hochwinzer.(Ruin.)
+            Rockessing.  Pockessing. ⇊ Loh. Kinschbach.
+                         Rossfelden. ⇊
+                        Guscherdorf. ⇊ Mittau.
+                             Endsau. ⇊ Nesselbach.
+                             Biflez. ⇊ Leiten.
+                                     ⇊ Hofkirchen. (Ruin.)
+            Kinzing.  Langenkinzing. ⇊
+                           Herzogau. ⇊
+                          Pleinting. ⇊ Ober and Unter Schöllenbach
+                                     ⇊ Gelbersdorf.
+                             Euröde. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Hildegardsberg. (Ruin.)
+                               Reif. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Albersdorf.
+                           Wisbauer. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Schmelz.
+                         U. L. Frau. ⇊
+   4th Post Station from} Vilshofen. ⇊
+              Regensburg}            ⇊ Winkel.
+                                     ⇊ Hacheldorf.
+                           Witzling. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Windorf.
+                          Hannsbach. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Eglsee.
+                           Ottenham. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Gerharding.
+                           Sandbach. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Fisching.
+                            Kötzing. ⇊
+                         Leestätten. ⇊ Deichselberg.
+                                     ⇊
+                              Einöd. ⇊ Kling.
+                           Biberach. ⇊ Geishofen.
+                          Schalding. ⇊ Iring.
+                                     ⇊ Söldern.
+                     Reit. Ord. Hof. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Alaning.
+                                     ⇊ Donauhof.
+                Dobelstein. Haining. ⇊ Wörth.
+                                     ⇊ Maierhof.
+                          Steinbach. ⇊ Stölzel-hof.
+                                     ⇊ Freunde. Hain.
+    5th Post Station from} +Passau.+ ⇊
+               Regensburg}           ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Ilz-stadt. Oberhaus.
+                        Truckerheim. ⇊
+                          Achleiten. ⇊
+                               Parz. ⇊ Lindau.
+                               Aich. ⇊ Aichet.
+                        Schildbauer. ⇊ Leiten.
+                                     ⇊ Wingertsdorf.
+            Unter-Mitter-Esternberg. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Schergendorf.
+         Deitzendorf. Hetzmannsdorf. ⇊
+            (Chateau.) Krempenstein. ⇊
+                           Pirawang. ⇊
+                      Unter Schacha. ⇊ Mazenberg.
+                                     ⇊                     {(Bavarian
+              Ober Hütt. Hochleiten. ⇊ Ober or Hafner-Zell.{ Custom-
+                                     ⇊                     { House.)
+                             Kasten. ⇊ Ober  } Grunau.
+                                     ⇊ Unter }
+            (Chateau.) Fichtenstein. ⇊
+                                     ⇊(River middle: Jochenstein, or
+                                     ⇊  Grenzberg.)
+                                     ⇊ Gottsdorf.
+          (Austrian} Engelhardszell. ⇊ Ried. (Ruin.)
+     Custom-House.)}                 ⇊
+                                     ⇊
+                     Ober }          ⇊ Rana-Riedl. (Chateau.)
+                     Unter} Leitner. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Rana-bach and Mühle.
+                          Ober-Rana. ⇊ Ufer.
+                             Kacher. ⇊ Nieder Rana.
+                                     ⇊ Marsbach. (Ruin.)
+                        Wesen Urfar. ⇊ Marsbach Zell, or Frey Zell.
+                   Ober } Wollmarkt. ⇊
+                   Unter}            ⇊
+            (Ruin.)     Waldkirchen. ⇊
+                             Pulhof. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Kirschbaum, or Hayenbach. (Ruin.)
+      The Schlagen, or Schlägleiten. ⇊
+                        Lidritzhueb. ⇊ Lidritzhueb.
+                                     ⇊ Au.
+                            Im-Zell. ⇊ Ob.
+                        Fadenau-Hof. ⇊
+                     Ober } Schwend. ⇊ Ober-Michel. Kirschberg.
+                     Unter}          ⇊
+                       Hinter-Aigen. ⇊ Dorf.
+                                     ⇊ Windberg.
+                                     ⇊ Neuhaus. (Ruin and Chateau.)
+                        Schönleiten. ⇊
+                        Rosengarten. ⇊
+                     Stauf. Aschach. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Landshag.
+               Hartkirchen. Dorsham. ⇊ Ober Walsee.  Eschelberg.
+                                     ⇊ Mülhachen.   Bergheim.
+                 (Ruin.) Schaumberg. ⇊
+                            Pupping. ⇊
+                         Gstettenau. ⇊ Hofham.
+                                 Au. ⇊ Auerdorf.
+                         Waschpoint. ⇊
+                              Wörth. ⇊ Mohrhäusel.
+   8th Post Station from} Efferding. ⇊
+              Regensburg}     Schab. ⇊
+                Taubenbraun. Gablau. ⇊
+                Raffolding. Ihndorf. ⇊ Bösenbach.  Bach.
+                         Tratteneck. ⇊
+               Strass. Emling. Aham. ⇊
+                            Stocköd. ⇊ Goldwarth.
+                          Basleiten. ⇊
+                           Hartheim. ⇊ Waldinger.
+                            Alkofen. ⇊
+               Garderiener. Hagenau. ⇊
+                            Bergham. ⇊
+                           Gohbesch. ⇊
+                             Steger. ⇊
+                           Schwagen. ⇊ Rodel.
+                         Schönering. ⇊
+                            Im-Fall. ⇊ Höflein.
+                              Urfar. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Ottensheim. (Chateau.)
+               (Kloster.) Willering. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Buchenau.
+                                     ⇊ Hager Schloschen.
+                      Calvarienberg. ⇊
+                        Margarethen. ⇊ Pöstlingberg.
+      9th Post Station from} +Linz.+ ⇊ Urfar.
+                Regensburg.}         ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Anhof.
+                                     ⇊ Pflaster.
+                                     ⇊ Harbarz.
+                                     ⇊ Bach.
+                                     ⇊ Furth.
+                   Ober } Rosenthal. ⇊ Magdalena.
+                   Unter}            ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Dornach.
+                                     ⇊ Furtner.
+                                     ⇊ Katsbach.
+                                     ⇊ Plösching.
+                         Kaufleuten. ⇊ Binneshäuser.
+                        Blankenreit. ⇊ Spital.
+                Zitzelau. St. Peter. ⇊ Dörfl.
+                           Ebelsberg ⇊
+                             on the  ⇊ Steyereck. (Ruin.)
+                              Traun. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Pulgarn.
+                          Traundorf. ⇊ Reichenbach.
+                              Bosch. ⇊ Luftenberg.
+                     Unger Bichling. ⇊ Hof-im-Schlag.
+ Monastery of St. Florian} Fosterau. ⇊
+               and Markt.}  Fischau. ⇊ Himberg.
+                      Rafferstetten. ⇊ Auwinden.
+                              Asten. ⇊ St. Georgen.
+            (Chateau.) Tilly’s Burg. ⇊ Gusen. Wirthshaus. Frankenberg.
+                             Kronau. ⇊
+                  (Ruin.) Spielberg. ⇊ Langenstein.
+      10th Post Station from} +Ens.+ ⇊ Urfar.
+                  Regensburg}        ⇊
+         Ensdorf. St. Lorenz. Lorch. ⇊ Mauthausen.  Pragstein.
+                           Enghazen. ⇊
+                              Tabor. ⇊
+                Windpassing. Biburg. ⇊ Reissersdorf.
+                             Albing. ⇊ Albing.
+                             Albern. ⇊ Niedersebing.
+                              Stein. ⇊ Au. Berg. Auhof. Mitterberg.
+                             Wagram. ⇊ Hartschlössel.
+                      St. Pantaleon. ⇊ Naarn.
+                       Erla Kloster. ⇊ Anhäusel. Strass. M. Lab. Arbing.
+                                     ⇊ Baumgarten.
+                          Breitfeld. ⇊ Stafling.
+                           Weinberg. ⇊ Holzleiten.
+                                     ⇊ Starzing.
+                             Oberau. ⇊ Rupertshofen. Münzbach.
+                                     ⇊ Windhag. Allerheiligen.
+                                     ⇊ St. Thomas.
+                                     ⇊
+                          Engelberg. ⇊
+                          Engelthal. ⇊
+                           Mitterau. ⇊
+                                Lin. ⇊
+                            Unterau. ⇊
+                                Eck. ⇊
+                           Gersberg. ⇊ Langacker. Wagerhof.
+                          Achleiten. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Gang.
+     11th Post Station } Strengberg. ⇊ Weisching.
+      from Regensburg. }             ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Inzing.
+                               Haag. ⇊ Hördorf.
+                           Stauding. ⇊ Hulting.
+                 Hörling.  Sindburg. ⇊ Mitterkirchen.
+            Niederwalsee. (Chateau.) ⇊
+                                     ⇊
+                      Ober} Sumerau. ⇊ Menschdorf.
+                     Unter}          ⇊
+                           Leitzing. ⇊
+                           Im Brüch. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Eizindorf. Froschau.
+                                     ⇊ Saxen.
+                                     ⇊ Dornach.
+                                     ⇊ Klam. (Chateau)
+                                     ⇊ Hofkirchen.
+                          Hagenauer. ⇊ Petzeldorf.
+                        Bocksreiter. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Rinzenhof.
+                           Ardagger. ⇊ Saurüsselleiten.
+                           Winkling. ⇊
+                          Mayherhof. ⇊ Tiefenbach.
+                                     ⇊ Wies.
+                               Wies. ⇊ Grein. (Chateau.)
+                                     ⇊ Giesenbach.
+                                     ⇊ River Middle (
+                                     ⇊ Strudel and } Wirbel.
+                                     ⇊ Schloss Werfenstein. })
+                                     ⇊ Struden. (Ruin.)
+                   (Ruin.) Haustein. ⇊ St. Nikola.
+                                     ⇊ Sarblingstein.
+                  (Ruin.)  Hirschau. ⇊ Hirschau.
+               (Ruin.)  Freyenstein. ⇊
+                             Dörfel. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Isper.
+                                     ⇊ Weins.
+                                     ⇊ Marhof.
+               (Chateau.) Donaudorf. ⇊ Kiernholz.
+                                     ⇊ Bösenbeug.  (Chateau)
+                              +Ips.+ ⇊
+                         Hinterhaus. ⇊ Taberg.
+                         Ober} Agen. ⇊ Gottsdorf.
+                        Unter}       ⇊
+                        Säusenstein. ⇊ Barthub.
+                                     ⇊ Mötzling.
+                                     ⇊ Rohberg.
+                                     ⇊ Rosenbühel.
+                          Idersdorf. ⇊ Loja.
+                                     ⇊ Thümling.
+                                     ⇊ Auratsberg.
+                                     ⇊ Kranz.
+                                     ⇊ Marbach. Maria-Taferl.
+                                     ⇊ Schelmenbach.
+                       Krumnussbaum. ⇊ Krumnussbaum.
+                                     ⇊
+                           Pechlarn. ⇊ Klein Pechlarn.
+                              Wörth. ⇊ Ebersdorf.
+                                     ⇊ Lehen.
+                                     ⇊ Urfar.
+                                     ⇊ Weideneck. (Ruin.)
+                                     ⇊ St. Georgen.
+                                     ⇊ Hain.
+        14th Post Station} (Kloster) ⇊
+          from Regensburg}     Mölk. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Emmersdorf.
+                               Hueb. ⇊ Schall-Emersdorf.
+                                     ⇊ Gosam.
+                                     ⇊ Urfar. Grinzing.
+                         Schönbühel. ⇊
+                      Schönbühelhof. ⇊ Markt Aggsbach. Aggstein.
+                                     ⇊   (Ruin.)
+                     Dorf Aggsbach.  ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Willendorf.
+                                     ⇊ Groisbach.
+                         St. Johann. ⇊ Schwallenbach.
+                      Ober Arnsdorf. ⇊
+                       Hof Arnsdorf. ⇊ Erlahöfe.
+                     Unter Arnsdorf. ⇊ Spitz. Hinterhaus (Ruin.)
+                      Bach Arnsdorf. ⇊ St. Michael.
+                    Ober} Kienstock. ⇊ Wesendorf.
+                   Unter}            ⇊
+                         St. Lorenz. ⇊ Joching.
+                                     ⇊ Weissenkirchen.
+                          Ruhrsdorf. ⇊
+                             Rossaz. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Dürrenstein. (Ruin.)
+                           Hundheim. ⇊ Ober }
+                                     ⇊ Unter} Löben.
+                            +Mautern.+ ⇊ +Stein.+
+                                     ⇊ +Krems.+
+                   Kloster-Göttweih. ⇊
+                               Palt. ⇊ Weinzierl.
+                       Brunnkirchen. ⇊ Landersdorf.
+                            Thalern. ⇊ Röhrendorf.
+                             Angern. ⇊
+                          Wolfsberg. ⇊ Weidling.
+                                     ⇊ Neu-Weidling.
+                                     ⇊ Teiss.
+                  (Ruin.) Holenburg. ⇊
+                             Wagram. ⇊ Schlickendorf.
+                        St. Georgen. ⇊ Donaudorf. Grunddorf.
+                        Rittersfeld. ⇊
+                        Trasenmauer. ⇊
+                         Stollhofen. ⇊ Jedtsdorf.
+                         Frauendorf. ⇊ Grafenwörth.
+                           Preiwitz. ⇊ Wasen.
+                                     ⇊ St. Johann.
+                                     ⇊  Ober}
+                                     ⇊   und} Lebern.
+                                     ⇊ Unter}
+                           Bodensee. ⇊ Sachsendorf.
+                                     ⇊ Kollersdorf.
+                          Kleindorf. ⇊ Altenwörth.
+                           Berndorf. ⇊ Gugging.
+                                     ⇊ Winkel.
+                        Zwentendorf. ⇊ Frauendorf.
+                         Erpersdorf. ⇊ Birnbaum.
+                   Klein Schönbuhel. ⇊ Urzenlaa.
+                             Kronau. ⇊ Möllersdorf.
+                             Aspern. ⇊ Neuaigen.
+                                     ⇊ Triebensee.
+                               Tuln. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Perzendorf.
+                                     ⇊ Ober Schmidabach.
+                                     ⇊ Zana.
+            Ober und Unter Aigen, or ⇊ Schmida.
+              Langenlebern.          ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Ober }
+                         Muckendorf. ⇊ und  } Zeyersdof.
+                                     ⇊ Unter}
+                        Zeiselmauer. ⇊
+                             Wörten. ⇊ Stockerau.
+                          St. Andre. ⇊
+                          Altenberg. ⇊
+               (Ruin.) Greifenstein. ⇊
+                                     ⇊ Spillern.
+                            Hoflein. ⇊ Alt-Kreutzerstein.
+                   Ober Kritzendorf. ⇊ Korneuburg.
+                           St. Veit. ⇊
+                  Unter Kritzendorf. ⇊ Bisamberg.
+                    Kloster-Neuburg. ⇊ Tuttenhof. Dorf.
+                           Weidling. ⇊ Lang-Enzersdorf.
+ Josephsberg, Leopoldsberg,} Dorfel. ⇊ Jetelsee.
+both called the Khalenberg.}         ⇊
+                           Nussdorf. ⇊
+                     Heiligen Stadt. ⇊ Gedlersdorf am Spitz.
+                            Döbling. ⇊
+                            +Wien+,} ⇊
+                                 or} ⇊
+                          +Vienna+,} ⇊
+
+19th Post Station, and 27 Posts from Regensburg, or 243 English miles.
+Distance by water about 300 English miles.
+
+                               THE END.
+
+
+             Printed by +William Clowes+, Stamford Street.
+
+
+
+
+     _Speedily will be published, in illustration of this Volume_,
+
+                      FORTY VIEWS ON THE DANUBE,
+
+                     DRAWN ON STONE +BY+ L. HAGHE,
+
+                                 FROM
+
+              SKETCHES MADE ON THE SPOT BY J. R. PLANCHE.
+
+                         No. I. will contain:
+
+                  1. Ratisbon, from Höhen-Schambach.
+                  2. Donaustauf.
+                  3. Schloss Wörth.
+                  4. Straubing.
+
+
+
+
+                         TRANSCRIBERS' NOTES
+
+Spelling, including inconsistent usage and forms reflecting local,
+historical, or foreign-language usage, has been retained as printed.
+This includes apparent misspellings in German names or words (e.g.
+Thurm/Thurn), which have not been changed.
+
+Minor inconsistencies in spacing and punctuation have been silently
+standardized.
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected (e.g.
+"astonishings pectacle").
+
+The following markings were use to indicate how the original text was
+formatted: "_" for _italic_, "*" for *bold*, and "+" for +small-caps+.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78472 ***
diff --git a/78472-h/78472-h.htm b/78472-h/78472-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5c80602
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-h/78472-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,9413 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+    <meta charset="UTF-8">
+    <title>
+      DESCENT OF THE DANUBE, FROM RATISBON TO VIENNA, DURING THE AUTUMN OF 1827. | Project Gutenberg
+    </title>
+    <link rel="icon" href="images/i_cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover">
+    <style>
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+    text-align: center;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+h1 {
+  font-size: 1em;
+  font-weight: normal;
+  text-align: center !important;
+}
+
+h1 span {
+  display: block;
+  padding-top: 0.5em;
+}
+
+.s1 {font-size: 2em;}
+.s2 {font-size: 1.75em;}
+.s3 {font-size: 1.50em;}
+.s4 {font-size: 1.25em;}
+.s5 {font-size: 1em;}
+.s6 {font-size: 0.875em;}
+
+p {
+    margin-top: .51em;
+    text-align: justify;
+    margin-bottom: .49em;
+}
+
+.p1 {padding-top: 1em;}
+.p2 {padding-top: 2em;}
+
+.lh2 {line-height: 2;}
+
+.cc {
+  display: table;
+  margin: 1em auto;
+}
+
+.cc ol {
+  text-align: left;
+}
+
+hr {
+    width: 33%;
+    margin-top: 2em;
+    margin-bottom: 2em;
+    margin-left: 33.5%;
+    margin-right: 33.5%;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;}
+hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;}
+@media print {hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;}}
+
+div.chapter {page-break-before: always;}
+h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;}
+
+table.banks {
+  margin: 1em auto;
+  border-collapse: collapse;
+  width: 100%;
+}
+
+table.banks th,
+table.banks td {
+  vertical-align: top;
+  padding: 0.25em 0;
+}
+
+table.banks .rb {
+  width: 47%;
+  text-align: right;
+  padding-right: 0.5em;
+}
+
+table.banks .mid {
+  width: 4%;
+  text-align: center;
+  vertical-align: middle;
+  white-space: nowrap;
+  padding: 0;
+}
+
+table.banks .lb {
+  width: 49%;
+  text-align: left;
+  padding-left: 0.5em;
+}
+
+.x-ebookmaker table.banks {
+  width: 100%;
+  font-size: 90%;
+}
+
+.note-sm {
+  font-size: 0.9em;
+}
+
+.hang {
+  display: block;
+  text-indent: -1em;
+  margin-left: 1em;
+  margin-right: 1em;
+  clear: both;
+}
+
+.m03 {
+  margin-left: -0.3em;
+}
+
+.page {
+  float: right;
+  min-width: 2em;
+  text-align: right;
+  white-space: nowrap;
+}
+
+.pagenum {
+    position: absolute;
+    left: 92%;
+    font-size: 0.5em;
+    text-align: right;
+    font-style: normal;
+    font-weight: normal;
+    font-variant: normal;
+    text-indent: 0;
+}
+
+.center {
+    display: block;
+    text-align: center;
+}
+
+.right {
+    display: block;
+    text-align: right;
+}
+
+.indent1 {margin-left: 1em;}
+.indent2 {margin-left: 2em;}
+.indent4 {margin-left: 4em;}
+
+.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;}
+
+a {
+  text-decoration: none;
+  font-weight: bold;
+}
+
+/* Images */
+
+img {
+  max-width: 100%;
+  height: auto;
+}
+
+.cover {
+  width: 20em;
+  margin: 2em auto;
+  page-break-inside: avoid;
+}
+
+.x-ebookmaker .cover {
+    width: 90%;
+}
+
+.frontispiece {
+    width: 40em;
+    margin: 2em auto;
+    text-align: center;
+    page-break-inside: avoid;
+}
+
+.x-ebookmaker .frontispiece {
+    width: 90%;
+}
+
+.img36 {
+    width: 25%;
+    margin: 2em auto;
+}
+
+.x-ebookmaker .img36 {
+    width: 90%;
+}
+
+.float_left {
+  float: left;
+}
+
+.float_right {
+  float: right;
+}
+
+/* Footnotes */
+
+.footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+
+.footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+
+.fnanchor {
+    vertical-align: super;
+    font-size: .8em;
+    text-decoration:
+    none;
+}
+
+/* Transcriber's notes */
+.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA;
+    color: black;
+    font-size:small;
+    padding:0.5em;
+    margin-bottom:5em;
+    font-family:sans-serif, serif;
+}
+</style>
+</head>
+
+
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78472 ***</div>
+
+<!-- C O V E R -->
+<div class="chapter cover">
+  <img src="images/i_cover.jpg" alt="Book cover showing the title and author's name.">
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- T I T L E   P A G E -->
+<div class="chapter center">
+<h1>
+  <span class="s1">DESCENT OF THE DANUBE,</span><br>
+  <span class="s6">FROM</span><br>
+  <span class="s2">RATISBON TO VIENNA,</span><br>
+  <span class="s5">DURING THE</span><br>
+  <span class="s3">AUTUMN OF 1827.</span>
+</h1>
+
+<p class="s6 center">WITH</p>
+<p class="s4 center">ANECDOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS,</p>
+<p class="s5 center"><i>HISTORICAL AND LEGENDARY</i>,</p>
+<p class="s6 p1 center">OF THE</p>
+<p class="s5 p1 center">TOWNS, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc., UPON
+THE BANKS OF THE RIVER,</p>
+<p class="s6 p1 center">AND THEIR INHABITANTS AND PROPRIETORS, ANCIENT
+  AND MODERN.</p>
+<p class="p2 s3 center"><span class="smcap">By</span> J. R. PLANCHE,</p>
+<p class="s5 center">AUTHOR OF “LAYS AND LEGENDS OF THE RHINE,”
+“OBERON,” AN OPERA, etc.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <div class="cc">
+  <p>
+  Ye glorious Gothic scenes! how much ye strike<br>
+  <span class="indent1">All phantasies, not even excepting mine:</span><br>
+  A grey wall, a green ruin, rusty pike,<br>
+  <span class="indent1">Make my soul pass the equinoctial line,</span><br>
+  Between the present and past worlds, and hover<br>
+  Upon their airy confine, half-seas-over.</p>
+  <p class="right smcap">Don Juan, Canto X.</p>
+  </div>
+</div>
+<hr>
+<p class="center">LONDON:<br>
+PRINTED FOR JAMES DUNCAN, PATERNOSTER-ROW.</p>
+<p class="center">MDCCCXXVIII.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- F R O N T I S P I E C E -->
+<div class="chapter frontispiece">
+<img src="images/i_a001.jpg" alt="View of a riverside town with a
+castle on a hill above the Danube, with figures in the foreground.">
+
+  <p class="s6">
+  <span class="float_left"><i>On Stone by L. Haghe.</i></span>
+  <span class="float_right"><i>W. Day Lithog. 17 Gate St.</i></span>
+  </p>
+  <p class="center p2 s4">SCHLOSS BÖSENBEUG.</p>
+  <p class="center s6">
+    The Summer Residence of the Emperor of Austria and the Town of Ips
+    on the Danube.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter center">
+  <p class="center">LONDON:<br>
+  Printed by <span class="smcap">William Clowes</span>,<br>
+  Stamford Street.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- D E D I C A T I O N -->
+<div class="chapter center">
+ <div class="lh2 cc">
+ <p>
+ <span class="s6">TO</span><br>
+ <span class="s3">SAMUEL RUSH MEYRICK,</span><br>
+ <span class="s5"><i>OF GOODERICH COURT, HEREFORDSHIRE,</i></span><br>
+ <span class="s6">ESQUIRE,</span><br>
+ <span class="s5">LL.D., F.S.A., etc. etc.</span><br>
+ THIS VOLUME<br>
+ <span class="s6">IS INSCRIBED<br>
+ BY HIS VERY SINCERE AND MUCH OBLIGED FRIEND,</span>
+ </p>
+ <p class="right">J. R. PLANCHE.</p>
+ <p><i>Brompton-Crescent, July 1, 1828.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- P R E F A C E -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">v</span>
+<h2 class="nobreak">PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p>It appears rather surprising that, while our printshops teem with
+views on the Rhine, and the shelves of our booksellers groan with
+the weight of Tours in its neighbourhood, no English pen or pencil
+should have been hitherto employed in illustration of the magnificent
+Danube. Captain Batty, it is true, in his beautiful work entitled
+“German Scenery,” has three or four views upon the river, and one or
+two modern tourists have slightly mentioned a town or so, which, lying
+on the post-road to Vienna, as well as on the banks of the Danube,
+they have passed through on their way to the Austrian capital. But,
+with the exception of the translation of Baron Riesbeck’s travels in
+Germany, published in the fifth <span class="pagenum">vi</span> volume
+of Pinkerton’s collection, which contains a very brief but faithful
+description of the river from Passau to Vienna, I am aware of few
+works in our language from which the slightest idea of its beauty and
+interest can be drawn, and of none absolutely dedicated to its history
+and illustration<a id="FNank_1" href="#FN_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>.
+That the Danube should <span class="pagenum">vii</span> be so
+little known to our rambling countrymen is the more remarkable, as
+Vienna—voluptuous Vienna! is one of the points to which it leads,
+and the ease, pleasure, and velocity with which its stream may be
+descended, render, in commonly fair weather, the passage by water
+considerably preferable to the journey by land, though performed in the
+traveller’s own post-chariot; and as by land he <i>must</i> return, he
+thus secures to himself the advantage of entirely new scenery, even if
+compelled by time or circumstances to retrace his line of route.</p>
+
+<p>The road from Frankfort to Ratisbon is replete with interest—the
+beautiful banks of the meandering Mein; the battle-field of Dettingen;
+the fine chateau and gardens of Aschaffenburg; Wurtzburg with its
+splendid palace, its rich conservatories and rock-throned citadel;
+Nürnberg, the birthplace <span class="pagenum">viii</span> of Albert
+Durer, with its fantastic buildings, and gorgeous cathedral, all tempt
+the wanderer on to the heights of Hohen-Schambach, where the plain of
+the Danube bursts upon his view. The return from Vienna, by Salzburg
+and Munich, or through the Tyrol to the Lake of Constanz, and <i>so
+down the Rhine home</i>, leaves nothing to be wished for in point of
+scenery; while six weeks or two months, provided the traveller be not
+ensnared by the gaieties of Vienna, are amply sufficient, in fair
+weather, for the whole of the journey.</p>
+
+<p>Having sought in vain, on my departure from England, for a
+book which would serve me as a guide and companion down the
+Danube, I was induced to take a few notes and sketches during my
+little voyage, in the hope that, when thrown, at my leisure, into
+something like a readable shape, they might become useful to future
+travellers, by at least standing in the gap till some abler hand
+should supply the desideratum. <span class="pagenum">ix</span> In
+the pursuance of this object, I was greatly assisted by a copy
+of Professor Schultes’ Donau-Reise<a id="FNank_2" href="#FN_2"
+class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, the best foreign guide down the Danube;
+but which is yet incomplete, and suppressed in Austria on account
+of its political and religious opinions. At the same time, however,
+that I acknowledge my obligations to this work, from which I have
+gleaned much information on points that could only have been explained
+by a native, or one long resident in the country, I must take the
+liberty of expressing my objection to its style, which renders its
+perusal a task to Germans themselves, and must make it almost a
+sealed book to a foreigner. Herr Schultes’ prolixity, and love of
+inversion, are enough to drive an English reader crazy. The latter,
+indeed, he carries to such an extent, that the waggish description of
+“the-in-general-strewed-with-cabbage-stalks-but-on-a-Saturday-night-
+lighted-up-with-lamps-market of Covent Garden” <span
+class="pagenum">x</span>must hide its diminished head. The learned
+Professor sometimes keeps his inquisitive victim on the rack for pages,
+before he deigns to disclose the word which solves the enigma of his
+apparently interminable sentence. He seems to glory in this species
+of mystification, and, like poor dear innocent Dogberry, were he “as
+tedious as a king,” he would “bestow it all upon your worship.” Still,
+however, “there is matter in this madness,” and the Professor has been
+a diligent digger. The list of German authors, both ancient and modern,
+who have written upon the antiquities, history, and natural productions
+of the towns and shores of the Danube, was invaluable to a stranger
+like myself, as it enabled me at once to lay my hands upon authorities
+‘pour vérifier les dates,’ etc. ‘Die Burgvesten und Ritterschlosser der
+Oestreichischen Monarchie, 4 T. Brunn, 1820,’ is another work, <span
+class="pagenum">xi</span> which has afforded me much curious legendary
+material; as have also the ‘Taschenbuch zur Geschichte verfallener
+Ritterburgen,’ etc., Wien, 1826, and other similar publications.</p>
+
+<p>The Danube, whose waves have witnessed the march of Attila, of
+Charlemagne, of Gustavus Adolphus, and Napoleon; whose shores have
+echoed the blast of the Roman trumpet, the hymn of the Pilgrim of
+the Cross, and the “wild halloo” of the sons of Islam, whose name is
+equally dear to history and fable; to him who, in fancy, sees the
+lion-hearted Richard of England languishing for his native land, or
+follows the beautiful widow of Siegfried to the “rich King Etzel’s
+court,”—that such a theme was worthy of being treated by the first
+writers in our language, was an awful consideration for one of the
+humblest; that it had not been touched upon by any was the only
+encouragement. “You have often scribbled successfully for the stage,”
+<span class="pagenum">xii</span> said my friend ——, “why should you
+fear to write for the passage-boat?” The joke was a vile one, but the
+argument was conclusive. Gentle reader, this is my first appearance in
+the character of a tourist. I have taken the part at a short notice, no
+one else having appeared to sustain it, and respectfully solicit the
+usual indulgence.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- T A B L E   O F   C O N T E N T S -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">xiii</span>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<p class="center s4">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a>
+</p>
+<p class="float_right">
+  Page
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">First View of the Danube and Ratisbon —
+Description of Boats on the Danube — The City of Ratisbon — The
+Cathedral — The Heide Platz — Church of the Scotch Benedictines — The
+Bridges — The Rath-haus — The Abbey of St. Emmeram — Story of Frederick
+von Ewesheim — Church of the Dominicans — The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche —
+Ober and Nieder Münster — Karmeliten Kloster — The Horses’ Church —
+The Promenades — Unterhaltungs Haus — Maximilian Joseph Gasse — David
+and Goliath — Embarkation — Wörth — Donaustauf — The Dunkel-boden —
+Sossau</span>
+<span class="page">1</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Straubing — The Bridge — The Hauptstrasse — The
+Stadtthurm — The Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche — Story of Agnes Bernauer
+— The Ramparts — The Atzelburg — Ober Altaich — Bogenberg — Kloster
+Metten — The Natternberg — Deggendorf — The Gnade Zeit — Confluence of
+the Isar and the Danube — Rafts from Munich to Vienna — Nieder Altaich
+— Hengersberg — Osterhofen — Hoch-winzer — Hofkirchen — Kinzing —
+Hildegartsberg — Vilshofen — Collegiat Stift — The Sandbach — New Road
+to Passau — Maximilian Joseph I., late King of Bavaria — Louis I., the
+present Monarch — Statue of a Lion — Approach to Passau</span>
+<span class="page">32</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a>
+  <span class="pagenum">xiv</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Passau — The Inn-stadt — The Fair — The Cathedral
+— The Bridge — Fortress of Oberhaus — Celebrated View — Mariahilf — The
+Ilz-stadt — The Sword Cutlery — Present Manufactures and Commerce of
+Passau — Talismans — Goitres — Excursions into the Environs of Passau —
+Confluence of the Inn and the Danube — Krempenstein — Hafner Zell — Its
+Manufactories — Fichtenstein — The Jochenstein — The Ruin of Ried</span>
+<span class="page">77</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Engelhard’s-zell — Rana-riedl — Marsbach — Wesen
+Urfar — Waldkirche — Hayenbach — The Schlägen — The Rhine and the
+Danube contrasted — Ober Michl — Neuhaus — Aschach — The paper-money
+of Austria — Castle of Schaumberg — Environs of Aschach — Ober Walsee
+— Story of Hans von Eschelberg — Sketch of the Insurrections in the
+Seventeenth Century</span>
+<span class="page">96</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Efferding — Ottensheim — Kloster-Willering —
+Linz — The Platz — The Landstrasse — The Schlossberg — The Landhaus —
+The Theatre — The Bridge — The Pöstlingberg — View on leaving Linz —
+Steyereck — The River Traun — Ebelsberg — Luftenberg — Monastery of
+St. Florian — Tillysburg — Spielberg — Mauthausen — Ens — Origin and
+History of the City — Antiquities discovered in its neighbourhood</span>
+<span class="page">137</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Nieder-Walsee — Castles of Clam and Kreuzen
+— Ardagger — Grein — The Strudel and the Wirbel — Mistakes <span
+class="pagenum">xv</span> of various Authors concerning them — St.
+Nikola — Sarblingstein — Freystein — Hirschau — The Isper — Bösenbeug
+— Story of Bishop Bruno and the Lady Richlita — Ips — Gottsdorf</span>
+<span class="page">180</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Marbach — Maria-Taferl — Pechlarn — Wiedeneck
+— Mölk — Lubereck — The Valley of the Wachau — Schönbühel — Aggstein
+— The Teufel’s Mauer — Spitz, and the Ruin of Hinterhaus — Church
+and Village of St. Michel — Castle of Dürrenstein — Narrow escape of
+Marshal Mortier during the Campaign of 1805 — Mautern — Stein — Krems —
+Kloster Göttweih — Trasen-Mauer — Arrival at Tuln</span>
+<span class="page">217</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center s4 p2">
+  <a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a>
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class="hang p1">Tuln — Langenlebern — Greifenstein — Story of
+Etelina — Korneuberg — The Bisamberg — Kloster Neuburg — Leopoldsberg,
+and the Khalenberg — A glimpse of the capital — Nussdorf — Arrival
+at Vienna — Bird’s-eye View and Description of the Environs from the
+Temple of Glory in the Brühl</span>
+<span class="page">267</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- M A P   O F   T H E   D A N U B E -->
+<div class="chapter center">
+<p class="center">
+  <img src="images/i_b018.jpg" alt="A map of the Danube from Ratisbon
+  to Vienna.">
+</p>
+<p class="center">A MAP <span class="smcap"><i>of the</i></span> DANUBE
+<span class="smcap"><i>from</i></span> RATISBON <span class="smcap">
+<i>to</i></span> VIENNA.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   I. -->
+<div class="chapter center">
+  <img src="images/i_c001.jpg" width="1222" height="709"
+alt="Flat-bottomed boat on the Danube with rowers and passengers
+gathered on deck.">
+<span class="pagenum">1</span>
+
+<p class="center">Common passage-boat from Ratisbon to Vienna.</p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>First View of the Danube and Ratisbon — Description of Boats on
+the Danube — The City of Ratisbon — The Cathedral — The Heide Platz
+— Church of the Scotch Benedictines — The Bridges — The Rath-haus
+— The Abbey of St. Emmeram — Story of Frederick von Ewesheim —
+Church of the Dominicans — The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche — Ober and Nieder
+Münster — Karmeliten Kloster — The Horses’ Church — The Promenades —
+Unterhaltungs Haus — Maximilian Joseph Gasse — David and Goliath —
+Embarkation — Wörth — Donaustauf — The Dunkel-boden — Sossau.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>I believe it is Doctor Clarke who advises travellers never to
+see a mountain without going to the top of it. I should rather say,
+never see a river without following the course of it. One very
+extensive prospect too nearly resembles another, particularly <span
+class="pagenum">2</span> in the same country, to give additional
+gratification, and I have not unfrequently, like the celebrated King of
+France, “marched up a hill, and then marched down again,” to about as
+little purpose. But never did I follow the course of a stream, however
+insignificant, without being surprised and delighted. Without water,
+the loveliest prospect is incomplete. Lakes and rivers are the eyes of
+the earth; the want of them cannot be atoned for by the beauty of its
+other features, however exquisite.</p>
+
+<p>The formidable account of some friends who had made the voyage,
+backed, as it seemed to be, by a twaddling notice in a German
+Guide-Book, had nearly dissuaded me from descending the Danube to
+Vienna. But the first glimpse of its magnificent flood, rolling through
+the broad and fertile plain, in the centre of which the ancient city of
+Ratisbon rears its sombre cathedral, and winding away into the horizon
+amongst the shadowy mountains of the Böhmer-wald, renewed my original
+determination; and my first care, on finding myself safely deposited
+in the excellent hotel, Das Goldene Kreutz, on the Heide Platz, was
+to make <span class="pagenum">3</span> the necessary inquiries how,
+when, and where I should embark on the “thundering river<a id="FNank_3"
+href="#FN_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>.”</p>
+
+<p>The regular passage-boat from Ratisbon to Vienna was to start on the
+following <span class="pagenum">4</span> morning at eight o’clock,
+and for the very moderate sum of five florins, not quite ten shillings
+English, would have landed me in the Austrian capital in about five or
+six days, according to the weather. But as neither I nor my companion
+was willing, for a slight pecuniary consideration, to risk a serious
+diminution of the pleasures of the voyage by a crowded deck, a filthy
+cabin, bad company, and miserable fare, I applied to a Schiffmeister of
+Stadt-am-hof, the little fauxbourg of Ratisbon, on the left bank of the
+Danube, who agreed to furnish us with a boat, steersman, and crew for
+the sum of twenty ducats, about ten pounds sterling, and to assure our
+arrival at Vienna in four days, or four and a half at farthest.</p>
+
+<p>The boats on the Danube, though of various names and sizes, are
+nearly all of one shape. That which I hired is called, in the peculiar
+patois of the Bavarian boatmen, a Weitz-zille, and is the sort of
+conveyance particularly appropriated to private travelling. It is
+about forty feet long, and composed of rough deal planks, nailed
+rudely together, the ribs being of natural branches, and caulked
+with moss. In the <span class="pagenum">5</span> centre is a kind
+of awning, or rather hut, of the same unpretending materials. It is
+flat-bottomed, as are all the craft upon this river, and, in short, is
+little more than a large rude punt. Sails are unknown upon the Danube;
+it is therefore rowed by two men, and steered by a third, with long
+clumsy-looking paddles, tied to upright posts, upon which every now and
+then water is flung to make them work easy, and avoid ignition. The
+Coche d’eau, or common passage-boat, is rather larger, and is called a
+Gamsel, or a Kellhaimer. Those used for the conveyance of merchandise,
+are known by the names of Hochnauen, Klobzillen, (facetiously termed
+vessels of the line by Professor Schultes,) Nebenbeys, Schwernmern,
+etc., all of the same fashion, keelless, sailless, their plain deal
+sides daubed with broad perpendicular stripes of black paint, their
+only ornament. Some of the larger are nearly one hundred and fifty feet
+long; and, in ascending the river, are towed, four or five together,
+by from thirty to forty horses. The drivers are called Jodelen, and a
+more singular set of beings can scarcely be imagined. In appearance
+<span class="pagenum">6</span> they are something between the English
+dustman and drayman, but the lowest of either of those worthies might
+pass for a scholar and a gentleman by the side of a real Jodel. From
+the moment the Danube becomes navigable, till it is again chained up
+in ice, these fellows never enter the humblest hovel, or mix with men
+of other callings, but even sleep upon the river’s bank beside their
+horses. A miserable superstition exists amongst them. They believe that
+some of their number must every year be sacrificed to the Spirit of the
+Waters, and, consequently, when an accident occurs, they all scramble
+for the drowning man’s hat, but never think of stretching out a finger
+to save him, whom they look upon as a doomed and demanded victim.
+Professor Schultes declares that he once saw five jodelen, with their
+horses, precipitated into the river, when their companions hastily cut
+the ropes, to prevent the rest of the team from following, and drove
+on, leaving the poor wretches to their fate.</p>
+
+<p>Before I step into my little bark, however, the old city of
+Ratisbon, or, more properly<span class="pagenum">7</span> Regensburg,
+claims a few moments’ attention. The Regina Castra of the Romans
+has had twenty different names<a id="FNank_4" href="#FN_4"
+class="fnanchor">[4]</a>, and, according to Günther, owes that of
+Ratisbona, or Ratispona, to its convenience as a landing place.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Inde Ratisbonæ vetus ex hoc nomen habenti<br>
+    Quod <i>bona</i> sit <i>ratibus</i>, vel quod consuevit in illa<br>
+    <i>Ponere</i> nauta <i>rates</i>.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near it, the little river Regen falls into the Danube, from whence
+its German appellation of Regensburg. One of the chief towns on the
+Illyrian frontier, here the Roman merchant traded for furs, and the
+eagle of the “Legio tertia Italica” long glittered in the sight of the
+humbled barbarians. From Regensburg the “furious Frank” rushed, beneath
+the banners of Charlemagne, to his Pannonian victories. Under Arnulph
+the Bastard, it became a flourishing commercial and manufacturing town.
+In 1106, the unfortunate Emperor Henry IV. here resigned his crown
+and sceptre to his unnatural son. In 1193, Richard Cœur de Lion was
+sent hither a <span class="pagenum">8</span> prisoner to the Emperor
+Henry VI., who re-delivered him to his sworn foe and captor, Leopold
+Duke of Austria. Here, on the 12th of October, 1576, expired the
+Emperor Maximilian II., in whose favour Germany revived the surname
+of Titus, or the Delight of Mankind. No stronger proof of his great
+and amiable qualities can be given, than the concurring testimony
+of the historians of Germany, Hungary, Bohemia, and Austria, both
+Catholics and Protestants, who vie in his praises, and in representing
+him as a model of impartiality, wisdom, and benignity<a id="FNank_5"
+href="#FN_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>. “It excites a melancholy
+regret,” says Wraxall, “to reflect that the reign of so excellent
+a sovereign as Maximilian was limited to the transitory period of
+twelve years, while Philip II., the scourge of his own subjects and of
+Europe, occupied the throne during more than forty. The Romans might,
+with equal reason, have lamented that the tyranny of Tiberius lasted
+above twenty years, when the benign administration of Titus scarcely
+exceeded as many <span class="pagenum">9</span> months<a id="FNank_6"
+href="#FN_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>.” In 1633, Ratisbon was taken by
+Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar, and retaken by the allied Bavarians and
+Austrians, commanded by Ferdinand King of Hungary, in the following
+year. In 1641, the Swedes, under the famous General Banner, cannonaded
+it; and on the 21st of April, 1809, it was taken by the French, after
+a desperate conflict, being the fourteenth time, in the course of nine
+hundred years, that this unfortunate city has been visited by the
+united horrors of war.</p>
+
+<p>Its grand but gloomy cathedral contains some curious sculpture, and
+some richly painted windows, the blues in which are remarkable for
+their brilliancy. The date, 1482, is upon the upper part of an angular
+porch; but the façade of the building, the singular well, the richly
+ornamented canopies on columns, in various parts of the interior, and
+the equestrian statues of Saint Martin and another, are all of an
+earlier period.<a id="FNank_7" href="#FN_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>
+<span class="pagenum">10</span> In the chancel, near the altar, is
+deposited the heart of the Emperor Maximilian I.; and in a chapel on
+the south side of the chancel, within a glass case, is the recumbent
+effigy, in wax, of Saint John of Nepomuck, the celebrated confessor
+of the wife of Wenceslaus, king of Bohemia, who refusing to divulge
+the secrets of his royal penitent was thrown into prison, tortured,
+and, finally, flung over the bridge at Prague and drowned, by the
+king’s order. His statue, in the habit of the Jesuits, is to be seen
+on nearly every bridge in the south of Germany; he, who perished by
+water, being curiously enough selected from the list of saints as
+the protector of all who travel on that element. On an altar-tomb,
+in the nave, is a splendid bronze effigy of a Bishop of Ratisbon and
+Duke of Bavaria kneeling to a crucifix. On the Heide Platz, or Place
+of the Pagan, a terrible combat is said to have been fought, between
+a gigantic Hun named Craco, who had flung forty knights out of their
+saddles, and Hans Dollinger, a valiant burgher of the town, during
+the reign, and in the presence of Henry the Fowler. The emperor
+<span class="pagenum">11</span> crossed the panting champion twice
+upon the mouth, and to the virtue of these holy signs the defeat
+of the Pagan is principally attributed<a id="FNank_8" href="#FN_8"
+class="fnanchor">[8]</a>. Craco’s sword, measuring nearly eight feet,
+and his ponderous helmet, hung for some time in the choir of Nieder
+Münster. The sword is now at Vienna, whither it was taken in 1542. On
+the side of a house, in the Kohlen-markt, is a representation of this
+combat; and the square itself, I have little doubt, formed originally
+part of the Heide Platz, from which it is at present separated by
+a row of comparatively modern erections. The church of the Scotch
+Benedictines, near the Jacobs-Thor, has a fine portal, of apparently
+the twelfth century. There is a tragical story told of its last abbot,
+Gallus, who was compelled to see a beloved brother torn to pieces
+without daring to acknowledge him; but I was not able to learn the
+particulars, though, Schultes says, they are of general notoriety. The
+celebrated <span class="pagenum">12</span> bridge across the Danube is
+a clumsy-looking affair, and sadly disappoints the expectant traveller:
+the honour of its erection is hotly disputed between Henry the Proud
+and——the Devil<a id="FNank_9" href="#FN_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>!
+Their imperial and satanic majesties have each their zealous partisans,
+but the proofs are in favour of the earthly potentate, who, in
+conjunction with the town of Ratisbon, commenced the work A.D. 1135. It
+was finished in 1146. It is of free-stone, supported by piles of oak
+driven to a considerable depth in the bed of the river, consists of
+fifteen arches, and is one thousand and ninety-one feet in length. Of
+the three principal bridges of Germany, that of Dresden is said to be
+the most elegant; that of Prague, the longest; and that of Ratisbon,
+the strongest. Besides this stone bridge there are two wooden bridges,
+one very small, connecting the stone bridge with a long island in the
+middle of the river, and another of larger dimensions, which leads
+from the island to the city <span class="pagenum">13</span> near the
+Nieder Münster. In the Kohlenmarkt stands the Rathhaus, or Hotel de
+Ville, where from 1662 to 1806 the diet was held. Justice and Fortune
+have inherited the building. The Tribunal of Police is established in
+one part of it, and the Lottery is drawn in the other. Its curious
+old gate and bay-window are in excellent preservation. Their arches
+and crocketted pinnacles are of the thirteenth century, and greatly
+resemble those of the monument of our Edward I. at Westminster. The two
+figures above the gate, one bearing a martel de fer, and the other in
+the act of flinging a stone, are of the close of the fifteenth century:
+beneath each is a shield with the arms of the city. The Abbey of Saint
+Emmeram is now the residence of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis: his
+gardens are kindly thrown open to the public from six in the morning
+to six in the evening. Saint Emmeram was a Frenchman, a native of
+Poictiers, who, having visited the court of Theodo, was suspected
+of an illicit amour with the princess his daughter, and murdered by
+her brother at Helfendorf, A.D. 652. In the vaults of this <span
+class="pagenum">14</span> building lie Childeric, the deposed king of
+France, the Emperor Arnulph, and his son Ludwig IV., the celebrated
+historian John Aventine, Saint Wolfgang, and Saint Dionysius, the
+Areopagite. The body of the latter saint is said to have been purloined
+from the Abbey of Saint Denis, in France, in the year 893; and Pope Leo
+XI., in a particular bull, absolutely threatened with excommunication
+all who dared doubt the genuineness of the holy corpse<a id="FNank_10"
+href="#FN_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>: “notwithstanding which,”
+says Keysler, “the monks of Saint Denys, near Paris, insist that the
+body of that saint is actually in their possession; and his head
+is shown in the third shrine of their treasury. On the other hand,
+the monks of Saint Emmeram maintain, that the only part wanting in
+their relique, is the middle finger of the right hand. However, an
+entire hand of this saint is shown at a chapel in Munich. His head is
+also devoutly worshipped in the cathedral of Bamberg; and at Prague
+another head of that saint is kept in the Church of Saint Vitus in
+the Castle<a id="FNank_11" href="#FN_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>.”
+<span class="pagenum">15</span> This abbey formerly possessed an altar
+of solid gold, a fine manuscript of the Gospels, written in gold, the
+cover ornamented with precious stones, and presented by Charles the
+Bald to the monks of Saint Denis; another copy, said to have been
+written in 751 by a bishop, in the ninetieth year of his age, and
+many other valuable curiosities. The MSS. are, I believe, still in
+existence<a id="FNank_12" href="#FN_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>.
+Gemeiner, in his chronicle, has a story connected with the edifice,
+sufficiently illustrative of the period of its action to merit
+insertion; besides which I doat upon old stories, and fairly warn that
+“gentle reader,” who may not have the same predilection, to lay down
+the book in time, as it is only when, like the Knife-grinder, “I have
+none to tell,” that he has the slightest chance of escape from them.</p>
+
+<p>A certain worthy Bishop of Regensburg, not contented with fleecing
+his flock, according to the approved and legitimate method, made it a
+point of conscience to waylay and plunder his beloved brethren <span
+class="pagenum">16</span> whenever they ventured near the Castle of
+Donaustauf, in which he resided upon the banks of the Danube, a little
+below the town. In the month of November 1250, says the chronicle,
+tidings came to Donaustauf, that, on the following morning, the
+daughter of Duke Albert of Saxony would pass that way, with a gorgeous
+and gallant escort. The bait was too tempting for the prelate. He
+sallied out upon the glittering cortege, and seizing the princess and
+forty of her noblest attendants, led them captives to Donaustauf. The
+astonished remainder fled for redress, some to King Conrad, and others
+to Duke Otho, at Landshut, who immediately took arms, and carrying
+fire and sword into the episcopal territories, soon compelled the holy
+highwayman to make restitution and sue for mercy. Conrad, satisfied
+with his submission, forgave him; in return for which the Bishop bribed
+a vassal, named Conrad Hohenfels, to murder his royal namesake; and,
+accordingly, in the night of the 28th of December, the traitor entered
+the Abbey of Saint Emmerams, where the king had taken up his abode,
+and stealing into the royal chamber stabbed the sleeper to the heart;
+<span class="pagenum">17</span> then running to the gates of the city,
+threw them open to the bishop and his retainers, exclaiming that the
+king was dead. The traitors were, however, disappointed. Frederich von
+Ewesheim, a devoted servant of the king, suspecting some evil, had
+persuaded the monarch to exchange clothes and chambers with him, and
+the assassin’s dagger had pierced the heart, not of Conrad, but of
+his true and gallant officer. The bishop escaped the royal vengeance
+by flight; but the abbot of Saint Emmeram’s, who had joined the
+conspirators, was flung into chains; and the abbey, the houses of the
+chapter, and all the ecclesiastical residences, were plundered by the
+king’s soldiery. The pope, as might be expected, sided with the bishop
+and excommunicated Conrad and Otho; but the murderer Hohenfels, after
+having for some time eluded justice, was killed by a thunderbolt!</p>
+
+<p>In the church of the Dominicans is a chapel where Albertus Magnus,
+Bishop of Ratisbon, the successor of his unworthy namesake, is said to
+have given his lectures. This great philosopher and excellent prelate
+is reported by the ancient chroniclers <span class="pagenum">18</span>
+to have possessed the accommodating but rather extraordinary faculty
+attributed to the Irishman’s bird, viz. that of being in two places at
+once. It is asserted that, at the very moment he was holding forth to
+his attentive pupils from the chair still exhibited in the chapel, he
+was to be seen busily employed in his study at Donaustauf, about twelve
+miles off. For despatch of business this must have been an invaluable
+accomplishment, and accounts most satisfactorily for the magnitude and
+research of his literary and scientific labours. The Neue-Pfarre-Kirche
+was formerly famous for a shrine of the Virgin called the Schöne Maria,
+to which from ten to twelve thousand pilgrims frequently repaired
+at a time from different parts of Bavaria. The Ober Münster and the
+Nieder Münster were both convents, the abbesses of which alone were
+obliged to take the vow of chastity. Otto II. and his Empress Adelheid
+are buried in the latter, which was founded in the tenth century by
+Judith, daughter of Arnold, Duke of Bavaria, and wife of Duke Henry I.
+The Ober Münster was founded by Hemma, Queen of Louis the German, who
+<span class="pagenum">19</span> is buried here. The Karmeliten Kloster,
+founded by the Emperor Ferdinand in 1641, is now the custom-house and
+the town-jail. In Ratisbon, formerly, even the horses went to church!
+On Saint Leonard’s Day the peasantry of the neighbourhood brought their
+whole stud gaily caparisoned, and indulged each animal with a peep
+into the Maltheser-Kirche, a pious precaution, which was supposed to
+preserve them the year round from the staggers, and indeed every other
+disorder that horse-flesh is heir to.</p>
+
+<p>I had nearly forgotten the promenades. They are pretty, and run all
+round the town. The remains of an old cross are pointed out in them, as
+having once been the centre of the city. In another part is a temple
+to the memory of Keppler, the astronomer, who died here in 1630, and
+of whom, says Prof. Schultes, it may be said as of our English poet
+Butler, “He asked for bread, and they gave him a stone.” A monument
+has also been erected to a M. Goertz, “parcequ’il étoit assez riche,”
+said our domestique de place, an excellent reason, and one which
+has justified many a more extraordinary proceeding. Then there are
+the Unterhaltungshaus, <span class="pagenum">20</span> (a handsome
+building, which combines the theatre, the assembly-rooms, and heaven
+knows what besides)—the new Maximilian-Joseph-Gasse, which has risen
+upon the ruins of 1809, and the nearly effaced figures of Goliath and
+David upon the wall of a house, the work apparently of the sixteenth
+century.</p>
+
+<p>And now farewell, old Regensburg! The Roman, the Vandal, the Frank
+and the Hun, the Bohemian, the Austrian, and the Swede, the ancient
+and the modern Gaul, have, by turns, besieged, stormed, plundered, and
+burnt thee. Thy air of gravity becomes a city that hath suffered and
+survived so many disasters; and the antique gold and silver coifs that
+glitter on the braided locks of thy fair daughters, harmonize well
+with the Gothic glories of thy cathedral and the romantic interest
+of thy Turnier-Platz. I confess it grieves me to notice the gradual
+disappearance throughout the Continent of those distinctions of dress
+which have hitherto seemed, as strongly as language and countenance, to
+mark out the natural boundaries of nations and provinces: but I console
+myself with the hope, that Europe <span class="pagenum">21</span>
+may, with its old habits, fling off its old prejudices, and that
+its millions will finally become as much like one great family in
+affection, as they promise to look, shortly, from the uniformity of
+their costume.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>On Monday, September 9, about eight in the morning, having completed
+our simple preparations, and safely stowed away under the benches
+of our little cabin a hamper containing some eatables and a few
+bottles of excellent Rhenish and Austrian wines, we stept into our
+weitz-zille, which awaited us just above the stone bridge, and having
+shot through an arch of it where there is a fall something like that
+at old London at half-flood, and struggled a few moments with a strong
+eddy, occasioned by an island and some corn-mills, we passed under
+the wooden bridge, and commenced our voyage, a strong wind blowing
+unfortunately right in our teeth. The sky was however cloudless, and
+the day, as it advanced, proving exceedingly warm, the wind was only
+unwelcome as it threatened to retard, in some measure, our progress,
+and prevent our making the proposed landing and resting-places <span
+class="pagenum">22</span> in due time. The average depth of the Danube
+between Donauworth and Passau, according to H. von Riedl, is ten feet;
+near Regensburg it is about eleven feet deep, and something broader
+than the Thames at Putney. The right bank of the river, nearly all
+the way to Straubing, is low, sedgy, and Dutch like. St. Niklas,
+Einhausen, Irl, Ober, and Unter Bärbing or Barbling, are the names of
+the little old villages that are scattered along it; but, on the left
+bank, the eye is soon attracted by the bold mountains which, abruptly
+rising behind the villages of Regenhausen, Weichs, Schwabelweiss,
+and Dergenheim, or Tegenheim, follow the windings of the flood in
+an almost unbroken chain to within a few miles of Vienna. The ruins
+of the castle of Donaustauf, cresting a round, bluff rock, having
+at its foot the little market-town of the same name, are the first
+interesting object that presents itself on approaching them. The
+great strength and commanding situation of this fortress, anciently
+called Toumstouphen, rendered it an object of considerable importance
+during the middle ages; and many are the tales of the “Battles, <span
+class="pagenum">23</span> sieges, fortunes, <i>it hath</i> past.” Henry
+the Proud having taken it from the cathedral and chapter of Regensburg
+in 1132, the citizens invested it in the following year so closely,
+that the garrison, driven to extremities by hunger, set fire to the
+building, and sallying forth, cut their way through the besiegers.
+In 1146 it was again taken; and in 1159 again besieged. In 1250 it
+was the scene of that outrage which has already been related in the
+story of Frederich von Ewesheim. After the death of Albertus Magnus,
+who, in 1260, succeeded his notorious namesake, and here pursued his
+studies, Donaustauf was again snatched from its holy masters, and
+once more restored to them, through the assistance of Bavaria, in
+1343. In 1355 it was pledged to the counsellor Ruger Reich for eleven
+thousand eight hundred and thirty-five florins, and sold afterwards
+to Charles IV. of Bohemia for five thousand. In vain did the holy
+fathers protest against the sale, and denounce spiritual as well as
+temporal vengeance against the purchaser. Charles was too shrewd and
+too powerful to fear either; and so long as he lived, Donaustauf
+<span class="pagenum">24</span> remained the barrier of Bohemia.
+Under his feeble successors, however, the chapter recovered its
+fortress, and in 1486 it was again pledged to Bavaria. Bernhard, Duke
+of Saxe-Weimar, took it, and reduced it to its present condition in
+1634. The Prince of Thurm and Taxis, who bought the lordship of Worth,
+in which it is situated, keeps, if I may be allowed the expression,
+the ruin in repair, and bestows some care on the gardens, which clothe
+the eastern side of its mountain seat. From the ramparts, the view
+extends eastwards over Wörth to Straubing and Bogen; and westward,
+over Ratisbon, to the mountains of Abach. On either side, the eye
+traces the bright Danube, now flowing majestically right onwards, now
+boldly sweeping round some rocky point, or gracefully winding amidst
+large tracts of meadow land—here almost doubling itself by a sudden
+and unexpected curve, and, lost for a short time amongst groves and
+hamlets, glittering again like a broad lake, where it resumes its
+eastern course far in the blue distance. Directly beneath lie the
+little market-town of Donaustauf; the church of Saint Salvator, which
+was built, <span class="pagenum">25</span> according to Schultes, in
+expiation of the crime of some soldiers who dishonoured the Host; the
+wooden bridge, said to be one of the longest on the river, and which
+is partially destroyed every year in order to give passage to the ice;
+and below it, on the left bank, numberless gardens and vineyards,
+spotted with the white villas of the wealthy citizens of Regensburg,
+who, escaping from commercial cares, on a fine summer Sunday evening,
+look back through the smoke of their pipes upon the dusky towers of
+their cathedral with, no doubt, similar feelings of satisfaction to
+those with which the London tradesman observes from his retreat at
+Highgate, or Hornsey, the distant dome of Saint Paul’s rising above
+the smother of our huge metropolis. Leaving Donaustauf, we passed the
+small village of Sulzbach, Demling, Bach, (celebrated for the mines
+in its neighbourhood,) Frenkhofen, Krukenberg, Oberach, Kirchkirfen
+or Kirfen-holz, and Wisent, on the little stream of that name, on the
+left bank; and those of Sarching, Friesheim, Ilkhofen, Auburg, Eltheim,
+Saissling, and Seppenhausen, on the right, some of them consisting of
+scarcely <span class="pagenum">26</span> half a dozen houses, their
+humble, white-washed churches roofed with shingles, and the little
+Kremlin-looking cupolas of their steeples painted a deep red. We now
+rapidly approached Wörth, the chateau of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis,
+which had been visible from the time of our passing Kirfenholz, but,
+from the extraordinary sinuosities of the river, appeared, at one
+moment, to have been left entirely behind us. The exterior is anything
+but prepossessing, recalling to the mind of a cockney, like myself,
+the dead walls and extinguisher-capped towers of the Penitentiary
+at Milbank. The dark firs that rise beside it, and the rich meadows
+that gently slope from its terrace wall to the water’s edge, are, it
+must be confessed, infinitely more romantic and ornamental than the
+rows of cabbages and stunted willows that form the foreground to its
+inglorious likeness,—still the idea of a prison would, I think, be
+with any stranger the predominant one. Wörth is, however, a palace,
+and, no doubt, handsome enough when you are in it. It has been, like
+most of the castles and palaces in this part of the world, bought and
+sold, pledged and redeemed <span class="pagenum">27</span> for all
+sorts of sums by all sorts of people. Those who wish to know the exact
+number of florins it was valued at during the fourteenth and fifteenth
+centuries, will find them scrupulously set down by Prof. Schultes;
+but, as no matters of historical or romantic interest are connected
+with its various transfers, I shall content myself by merely stating,
+that it was anciently the property of the bishops of Ratisbon, and
+came to Bavaria in 1809, shortly after which period it was bought by
+its present possessor. Nearly opposite Wörth, upon the right bank, is
+the small town of Pfätter, or Pfada, as it is called in the dialect of
+the country, the first post-station from Ratisbon. A little streamlet
+of the same name falls into the Danube beside it. A dozen small
+villages, remarkable only for appellations that would cost an untutored
+Englishman as many teeth to speak them—Gmünden, Tiefer-thal, Hochdorf,
+Stadeldorf, Niederachdorf, Sinzendorf, Hünthofen, Kirchenroth, Ober
+and Unter Motzing, Kessnach, Hartzeitdorn, etc., are scattered along
+the banks, both now exceedingly flat and uninteresting, the mountains
+on the left having retreated <span class="pagenum">28</span> from the
+river, which here winds and doubles like a hunted hare. My companion
+and I therefore landed, and leaving the boat to thread the mazes of
+this watery labyrinth, strode forward at a good round pace across
+the fields towards Straubing, the tin-capped steeples of which were
+flashing back the rays of the setting sun. The great plain extending
+from the gates of Ratisbon, as far as Pleinting, is supposed to
+have been once a large morass, which, on being drained, has left a
+rich black soil several feet deep (the celebrated Dunkelboden.) The
+peasantry of this favoured district are exceedingly proud, and fond of
+all kinds of finery. The finest Swiss and Dutch linen, silk and satin
+kerchiefs of the gayest hues, Brabant lace, and gold and silver stuffs
+of all descriptions, are in constant requisition. The men wear gold
+rings, and generally two gold watches. The black velvet or embroidered
+silk boddices of the women are laced with massive silver chains, from
+which hang a profusion of gold and silver trinkets, hearts, crosses,
+coins, medals, etc. The custom of tying a black silk handkerchief round
+the neck, with the bow behind, <span class="pagenum">29</span> and
+the ends hanging down the back, is, I think, peculiar to Bavaria. A
+wedding here is a scene of great extravagance and uproar; many tables,
+accommodating at least a dozen persons each, are set out with all
+manner of good things, and the feasting continues for several days,
+all day long. Ignorant, however, as they are wealthy and luxurious,
+few even of the most respectable amongst them can either read or
+write, and are therefore, says Schultes, entitled in every respect
+to the appellation by which they are generally distinguished, i. e.
+“Bauern vom Dunkelboden”—“Peasants of the dark earth.” Sossau, on the
+left bank, shortly after you enter the Landgericht of Straubing, is
+celebrated for a picture of the Virgin, which, in 1534, the angels
+brought here in a boat, from a village where the doctrines of Luther
+had taken root, to the great indignation of the holy portrait. Those
+who are sufficiently sceptical to doubt the veracity of this story, may
+consult the account of the monks of Kloster Windberg<a id="FNank_13"
+href="#FN_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>, (to which Sossau belonged,)
+<span class="pagenum">30</span> printed “cum licentia superiorum,”
+and illustrated by a fresco-painting on the walls of their house at
+Straubing. The whole angelic crew are there to be seen equipped in
+sailors’ dresses, tugging away with “a long pull, a strong pull, and a
+pull all together,” (the last pull, by the way, must have been an extra
+miracle on the Danube, the advantage of such unanimity never entering
+the heads of the honest boatmen), and having on board not only the
+offended picture, but the outraged church itself!—I have heard of a
+worthy enactor of old Capulet, who, by a curious transposition of his
+prepositions, commanded the astonished Juliet to prepare</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+  To go <i>to</i> Paris <i>with</i> St. Peter’s church.
+</p>
+
+<p>Now, however extraordinary this paternal injunction might appear
+to a modern heretical London audience, it is obvious, upon due
+consideration, that the speech, being placed in the mouth of a Roman
+Catholic of the sixteenth century, was not so much out of character as
+might be imagined at <span class="pagenum">31</span> the moment. The
+chapel of Loretto and the church of Sossau had set a noble example of
+locomotion, and Saint Peter’s of Verona could have no rational reason
+for refusing to follow it upon a proper occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Ainhausen, the property of Count Liebelfing, on the high road to
+Rinkheim and Kagers, an old village from which the Lords of Kagers
+formerly took their title, are the last villages on the right bank of
+the river before you arrive at Straubing, the first town of consequence
+on the Danube after leaving Ratisbon.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   II. -->
+<div class="chapter center">
+<span class="pagenum">32</span>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Straubing — The Bridge — The Hauptstrasse — The Stadtthurm — The
+Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche — Story of Agnes Bernauer — The Ramparts
+— The Atzelburg — Ober Altaich — Bogenberg — Kloster Metten — The
+Natternberg — Deggendorf — The Gnade Zeit — Confluence of the Isar and
+the Danube — Rafts from Munich to Vienna — Nieder Altaich — Hengersberg
+— Osterhofen — Hoch-winzer — Hofkirchen — Kinzing — Hildegartsberg
+— Vilshofen — Collegiat Stift — The Sandbach — New Road to Passau —
+Maximilian Joseph I., late King of Bavaria — Louis I., the present
+Monarch — Statue of a Lion — Approach to Passau.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>Straubing is pleasantly situated on the right bank of a small arm of
+the river, or, as it might be called, a canal, through which part of
+the noble stream has, of late years, been conducted to the very walls.
+In front of it, the mountains, which, as I have already mentioned, have
+retreated from the left bank, form a fine amphitheatre, in the centre
+of which, the insulated Bogenberg rises like a pyramid. Like most
+cities of any size and antiquity in Germany, Straubing is divided into
+an Alt-Stadt and a Neu-Stadt. The old town is conjectured by some to
+have been the Serviodurum Augusti of the Romans, the seat of the <span
+class="pagenum">33</span> Castra Augustana, etc., and traces of some
+entrenchments, supposed to be Roman, are still to be seen just without
+the walls. The name of “Straubinga” (“Curtis Regia”) first occurs in an
+instrument, dated A.D. 902. About forty years afterwards, we hear of
+the deeds of the noble knights of Straubing and Stein. At the latter
+end of the tenth century, Henry III. obtained the surname of Pious,
+by presenting Straubing to his brother Otto, Bishop of Augsburg, who
+left it to the cathedral and chapter of that place. It was governed by
+an officer called a Vice Dom, till the commencement of the thirteenth
+century, when New Straubing was built, and the old town re-annexed to
+the Duchy of Bavaria. Frederick the Handsome, of Austria, besieged
+and took it in 1319. In 1332, Louis the Bavarian lay before the town
+from the 4th of July till the 24th of August, when, provoked by its
+obstinate resistance, he threw a bridge over the Danube, by Kagers,
+and, making a desperate assault at the Spital-gate, succeeded at last
+in carrying the place by storm. His son, Duke William, first husband
+of Matilda <span class="pagenum">34</span> of Lancaster, built the
+castle on the Danube, A.D. 1356. It is now converted into barracks. In
+1393, Straubing was entirely destroyed by fire, and the conflagration
+having begun at a joiner’s, no person of that trade was permitted to
+reside in the city from that time till the year 1540. It was most
+vigorously defended against the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, in 1633. The
+burgomaster, Höller, an excellent marksman, shot upwards of thirty of
+his best officers from the ramparts. In 1635, Straubing was visited by
+a dreadful pestilence. In 1704, it was taken by the Austrians, and, in
+1780, the best half of it fell a second time a prey to the flames. The
+loss was estimated at more than a million of florins.</p>
+
+<p>Straubing in its present state is cheerful and tolerably
+regular, but more like a Dutch than a Bavarian town; the bridge
+across the Danube is pretty, and the gate which terminates it
+fantastic. On entering the Hauptstrasse or High-street, the eye is
+attracted by a quadrangular tower, forming part of the Rath-haus or
+Guildhall, and much prized by the Straubingers, who consider <span
+class="pagenum">35</span> it the most ancient relic in the place; but
+it seems to have been a terrible annoyance to Professor Schultes,
+who neglects no opportunity of expressing his antipathy to it, and
+astonishment that any reverence for its antiquity should prevent the
+removal of a building, which hinders people from looking through the
+town like a telescope. This Stadt-thurm as it is called is two hundred
+feet high, and is now surmounted by a tin spire, with four smaller
+pinnacles at the corners. There are two Latin inscriptions upon it, one
+proclaiming its erection in 1208, and the other its renovation in 1783.
+The largest building in the town is the Pfarr, or Collegiat Kirche,
+commenced about 1432, and finished in 1512. In a small chapel in the
+churchyard of St. Peter’s, in the Alt-stadt, is a red marble tablet,
+on which reclines the effigy of a female surrounded by the following
+inscription, “Anno Domini, <span class="allsmcap">MCCCCXXXVI</span>,
+<span class="allsmcap">XII</span> Die Octobris, Obiit Agnes Bernauerin.
+Requiescat in pace.”</p>
+
+<p class="img36 center">
+  <img src="images/i_c036.jpg" alt="Headstone of Agnes Bernauer.">
+<span class="pagenum">36</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>The fate of this unfortunate lady has furnished the subject for a
+tragedy to the Count of Torring Seefeld, and one more deeply affecting
+is scarcely to be found in the page of history.</p>
+
+<p>Albert, the only son of Duke Ernst of Bavaria, was one of the most
+accomplished and valiant princes of the age he lived in. His father
+and family had selected for his bride, the young Countess Elizabeth of
+Würtemberg. The contract was signed and the marriage on the point of
+taking place, <span class="pagenum">37</span> when the lady suddenly
+eloped with a more favoured lover, John Count of Werdenberg. The
+tidings were brought to Albert at Augsburg, where he was attending a
+grand tournament given in honour of the approaching nuptials, but they
+fell unheeded on his ear, as his heart, which had not been consulted
+in the choice of his bride, had just yielded itself, “rescue or no
+rescue,” to the bright eyes of a young maiden whom he had distinguished
+from the crowd of beauties that graced the lists. Virtuous as she was
+lovely, Agnes Bernauer had obtained amongst the citizens of Augsburg,
+the appellation of “the angel:” but she was the daughter of a bather,
+an employment considered at that period, in Germany, as particularly
+dishonourable. Regardless of consequences, however, he divulged his
+passion, and their marriage was shortly afterwards privately celebrated
+in Albert’s castle at Vohberg. Their happiness was doomed to be of
+short duration. Duke Ernst became possessed of their secret, and the
+anger of the whole house of Munich burst upon the heads of the devoted
+couple! Albert was commanded <span class="pagenum">38</span> to sign
+a divorce from Agnes, and prepare immediately to marry Anna, daughter
+of Duke Erich of Brunswick. The indignant prince refused to obey, and
+being afterwards denied admission to a tournament at Regensburg, on
+the plea of his having contracted a dishonourable alliance, he rode
+boldly into the lists upon the Heide Platz, before the whole company
+declared Agnes Bernauer his lawful wife and duchess, and conducted
+her to his palace at Straubing, attended as became her rank. Every
+species of malice and misrepresentation was now set at work to ruin
+the unfortunate Agnes. Albert’s uncle, Duke Wilhelm, who was the only
+one of the family inclined to protect her, had a sickly child, and she
+was accused of having administered poison to it. But the duke detected
+the falsehood and became more firmly her friend. Death too soon
+deprived her of this noble protector, and the fate of the poor duchess
+was immediately sealed. Taking advantage of Albert’s absence from
+Straubing, the authorities of the place arrested her on some frivolous
+pretext, and the honest indignation with which she asserted <span
+class="pagenum">39</span> her innocence, was tortured into treason
+by her malignant judges. She was condemned to die, and on Wednesday,
+October 12th, 1436, was thrown over the bridge into the Danube,
+amidst the lamentations of the populace<a id="FNank_14" href="#FN_14"
+class="fnanchor">[14]</a>. Having succeeded in freeing one foot from
+the bonds which surrounded her, the poor victim, shrieking for help
+and mercy, endeavoured to reach the bank by swimming, and had nearly
+effected a landing, when a barbarian in office, with a hooked pole,
+caught her by her long fair hair, and dragging her back into the
+stream, kept her under water until the cruel tragedy was completed.
+The fury and despair of Albert on receiving these horrid tidings were
+boundless. He flew to his father’s bitterest enemy, Louis the Bearded,
+at Ingolstadt, and returned at the head of an hostile army to his
+native <span class="pagenum">40</span> land, breathing vengeance
+against the murderers of his beloved wife. The old duke, sorely
+pressed by the arms of his injured son, and tormented by the stings
+of conscience, implored the mediation of the Emperor Sigismund, who
+succeeded after some time in pacifying Albert, and reconciling him to
+his father, who, as a proof of his repentance, instituted a perpetual
+mass for the soul of the martyred Agnes Bernauer. Albert afterwards
+married Ann of Brunswick, by whom he had ten children.</p>
+
+<p>The ramparts of this town are now almost entirely demolished, and
+the fosses turned into kitchen-gardens. The former were once planted
+with mulberry-trees, but they were destroyed during the late war,
+when Straubing, though not absolutely stormed or invested, suffered
+considerably from the constant passage of troops, and the skirmishing
+in its neighbourhood. The Straubingers are more celebrated for good
+living than hard work.</p>
+
+<div class="center p1">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “On y mange et digére<br>
+    Compère, compère;<br>
+    On y fait bonne chere<br>
+    Voilà tout le mystère!”<br>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="p1">is the quotation of Prof. Schultes, and may <span
+class="pagenum">41</span> with great propriety be applied to
+many bodies corporate, of more pretension than the humble one of
+Straubing.</p>
+
+<p>The whole country was lighted up by a glorious sunset as we entered
+the town to satisfy our curiosity and our appetite, and some time
+before we returned from those important occupations, the “twilight
+grey” had “in her sober livery all things clad.” We had determined
+on passing the first night on board, in order to reach Vilshofen by
+breakfast-time the following day, as from that place we understood the
+scenery would become too interesting to admit of haste, or travelling
+after dark, and preparations had been accordingly made by our little
+crew. The sides of the zille were boarded up, and straw and boat-cloaks
+so arranged as to make us a very comfortable couch, upon which we had
+no sooner stretched ourselves than the word was given, and by the light
+of the stars we dropped gently down the river, passing the Atzelburg
+and Hockstetter-hof on the right bank. The former, also called the
+Aciliusburg, is conjectured by some to have been the retreat of the
+Roman Consul Acilius, when exiled for <span class="pagenum">42</span>
+the <i>crime</i> of Christianity, and originally named from him Acilia
+Augusta. In its neighbourhood are some entrenchments believed to be
+Roman. Reibersdorf, Kleinau, and Ebling are villages on the right bank.
+Near the latter the small stream of the Aitrach joins the Danube. On
+the left is Lenach, remarkable only as having been purchased by the
+monks of Altaich in 1139, for ninety-five Pf. Pfennige, about five
+shillings, English.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the precautions we had taken, I was too cold as
+well as too curious to sleep; and as the moon got up so did I, and,
+seating myself by the cabin door, looked on the gradually brightening
+landscape, and listened to the songs of the boatmen who, as they lazily
+plied their unwieldy paddles, warbled in their own peculiar style—a
+style rendered familiar to London ears, by the interesting “Rainer
+family,” for it is not confined to the Tyrol—several wild but pleasing
+melodies. It is very provoking that the English should be, perhaps, the
+only people who have no idea of singing in parts; an untutored boatman,
+peasant, or soldier of almost any <span class="pagenum">43</span> of
+the continental nations will suddenly strike in with an extemporary and
+very creditable bass, though the air be led off by an utter stranger
+to him. On the banks of the Main at Aschaffenburg, and at Möhdling in
+the Wienerwald, I was particularly struck with this pleasing talent,
+and have noticed it repeatedly both in France and Switzerland. The
+complaint that the English are not a musical nation is in my opinion
+better borne out by this circumstance, than by the alleged deficiency
+of celebrated composers, or the want of taste in the mixed audiences
+of our Concert Rooms and Theatres. There is certainly no comparison
+between “the native wood-notes wild” of a Devonshire ploughman, and
+those of a Bavarian bauer.</p>
+
+<p>We soon came in sight of Ober-Altaich, a celebrated Benedictine
+kloster. A Druidical altar is said to have been destroyed here by
+the holy Parminius, who, with his own hand, cut down the oak under
+which it stood, and caused a chapel to be erected upon the spot. The
+convent was founded by Duke Uttilo II. A.D. 731, who brought thither
+twelve Benedictine monks and an <span class="pagenum">44</span> abbot
+from Reichenau, in the Lake of Constance. The Hungarians destroyed
+it in 907, and it was a ruin for nearly two hundred years, when
+Count Frederick of Bogen rebuilt it, and, with his wife and sons, so
+liberally endowed and patronised it, that in the thirteenth century
+there were no less than one hundred and eighteen monks here, most
+of them of noble birth; and the dignity of prince was granted to
+its abbots by Louis the Brandenburgher. In 1634, Ober-Altaich was
+burnt by the Swedes, but shortly afterwards rose from its ashes,
+more magnificent than ever,—a circumstance, says Schultes, not at
+all surprising when you consider that, in spite of their vow of
+poverty, the holy brotherhood enjoyed an annual income of thirty
+thousand florins (between four and five thousand pounds sterling,)
+an immense sum for this part of Germany, where a florin in the hands
+of a native will go nearly as far as a pound in England. Passing the
+mouth of the little Kinzach, and the villages of Saut and Hundersdorf,
+we at length approached the long-seen Bogenberg. Upon its summit
+lie the last crumbling <span class="pagenum">45</span> relics of
+an old fortress, the Stammschloss<a id="FNank_15" href="#FN_15"
+class="fnanchor">[15]</a> of the once-dreaded Counts of Bogen. Germany
+in the times they flourished was, as the Legate Cupanus described it
+in his letters to Rome—a den of thieves. The deplorable state into
+which the whole empire was plunged by the quarrels between the popes
+and the house of Swabia, the almost total annihilation of the imperial
+power by the death of Conrad IV., and the interregnum that followed
+the death of Richard King of the Romans, in 1271, is vividly described
+by contemporary writers, one of whom, in the language of scripture,
+exclaims, “In those days there was no king in Israel, and every one
+did that which was right in his own eyes.” “The earth (says another)
+mourned and languished, Mount Lebanon was shaken from its foundations,
+and the moon was turned into blood<a id="FNank_16" href="#FN_16"
+class="fnanchor">[16]</a>.” The terms noble and robber were synonymous,
+and the higher the rank the more <span class="pagenum">46</span>
+lawless and rapacious were the deeds of the titled ruffian. The castle
+of Bogen was admirably adapted for a bandit’s hold. Seated upon the
+apex of a pyramidical rock, inaccessible but by one narrow pass on its
+eastern side, which a handful of determined men might keep against a
+host, and commanding a view over nearly half the dukedom of Bavaria,
+its lawless lord watched from its battlements, like a vulture, the
+approach of his unsuspecting prey, and, pouncing upon it, bore it up
+in triumph to his mountain eyrie, where he feasted at his leisure in
+security. The domains of the Counts of Bogen extended from Regensburg
+to the Ilz, and from the shores of the Danube far into Bohemia.
+Their friendship and alliance were sought by King and Kaiser, by the
+Dukes of Bavaria, and the Markgraves of Austria; and their feuds
+with the Counts of Ortenburg deluged the land repeatedly with blood.
+But bigotry and superstition lost them what rapine and murder had
+won. Their revenues filled the coffers of greedy abbots, and their
+castles were gradually transformed into convents. An image of the
+<span class="pagenum">47</span> Virgin was one day seen floating upon
+the Danube, and drifting ashore near the little market-town of Bogen,
+which lies at the foot of the mountain, on its western side, rested on
+a stone on the bank. Count Answin, struck with so <i>miraculous</i>
+an occurrence, presented the castle of Bogen to the kloster of
+Ober Altaich, which his brother Frederick had founded. Forty years
+afterwards, Count Albert I. of Bogen was wheedled out of the castle
+of Windberg by another holy fraternity; and about the middle of the
+thirteenth century the family became extinct, by the death of Count
+Albert IV., who had followed the unfortunate Emperor, Frederick II., to
+the Holy Land. Ludmilla, the mother of this last Count of Bogen, was a
+Bohemian Princess; and, on the death of her husband, Albert III., Louis
+II., Duke of Bavaria, becoming enamoured of her from report, offered
+her marriage, provided, says the chronicle, he should like her upon a
+personal acquaintance. Ludmilla consented to this proposition, and the
+duke visited her accordingly. Suspecting, however, the sincerity of his
+protestations, she one day requested <span class="pagenum">48</span>
+him, as in a joke, to plight his troth to her in a tapestried chamber,
+and to consider the figures of three knights, worked in the hangings,
+as witnesses of the contract. The duke, to humour this apparently
+childish fancy, smilingly held up his hand, and took the oath required
+of him, when, to his utter astonishment, three living knights, “good
+men and true,” stepped out from behind the tapestry, where they had
+been purposely concealed by the cunning Bohemian, and compelled the
+ensnared potentate to ratify his pledge<a id="FNank_17" href="#FN_17"
+class="fnanchor">[17]</a>. The church of our Lady of Bogen, erected
+in honour of the miraculous image before-mentioned, stands beside the
+ruins of the castle, and from six to eight thousand pilgrims have been
+known at one time to congregate about its far-famed shrine. It has been
+several times injured by lightning, and its roof carried away by the
+high winds, a natural consequence <span class="pagenum">49</span> of
+its exposed situation. A thunderstorm burst over it on Whit-Tuesday,
+A.D. 1618, during one of these meetings, and the lightning having fired
+the steeple, such confusion ensued, that fourteen persons were crushed
+to death<a id="FNank_18" href="#FN_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>. The
+Bogenberg and its vicinity have been fertile in miracles. A ridiculous
+story is told by Æmilius Hemmauer, a prior of Ober-Altaich, about
+a moving altar, and in the little market-town is shown a tooth of
+St. Sebastian, over which water is poured into a goblet; and it is
+gravely asserted that whoever drinks of this water, need fear no
+infectious disorder for twelve months to come. The little rivers
+Bogen and Menach join the Danube near this spot, and on the opposite
+<span class="pagenum">50</span> shore are the villages of Absam and
+Hermansdorf.</p>
+
+<p>As the Danube approaches its confluence with the Isar, its banks
+become bolder and more interesting; a crowd of villages present
+themselves, amongst which the most important are Pfelling, whence a
+considerable quantity of wood is sent to Vienna; Irlbach, the principal
+depôt for the corn of the Dunkelboden, before the Danube washed
+the walls of Straubing; and Wischelburgh, on the site of the Roman
+Bisonium, destroyed by the tremendous Attila.</p>
+
+<p>Kloster-Metten, on the left bank, according to the legend, owes its
+foundation to the following circumstances: A herdsman of Michaelbuch,
+named Gamelbert, awaking from a deep sleep, in which he had been
+indulging beneath a tree, found, to his surprise, a book lying upon his
+breast. On examination he found it was written in English, and, though
+he knew just as much of the language as the beasts that were grazing
+before him, he immediately commenced reading it, and was so edified by
+its contents, that he abandoned his flocks and herds, and, repairing
+to Rome, became <span class="pagenum">51</span> a Christian priest.
+On his way thither he baptised a boy, whom he named Utto, and desired
+his parents to send the lad to him when he became a man; they did so,
+and Gamelbert made over to him the care of the souls of the worthy
+inhabitants of Michaelbuch. Utto, however, had no great affection for
+his new calling, and leaving the poor souls to take care of themselves,
+crossed the Danube, and wandered into the Waldes, where he built a
+hermitage, in honour of the Archangel Michael, near a spring, which
+is still called Utto’s Spring, and amused himself with sundry curious
+pranks, amongst which was the rather difficult one of hanging his axe
+upon a sunbeam! Charlemagne, hunting in the neighbourhood, caught the
+holy hermit in the fact, and, astonished, as well he might be, by so
+extraordinary a performance, promised to grant him any boon he might
+be pleased to ask. Utto requested that a convent might be built on the
+spot, and Kloster-Metten was erected at the command of Charlemagne.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite side to Kloster-Metten, <span
+class="pagenum">52</span> suddenly rises the remarkable Natternberg the
+only rock on the right bank from Prufening to Pleinting, a distance of
+upwards of eighty English miles. It is nearly three hundred feet high;
+and on its summit are the ruins of another castle, which belonged to
+the Counts of Bogen, who made it their residence in 1232. The curious
+appearance of this mass of granite, standing in solitary majesty upon
+this extensive plain, and cut off, as it were, from its giant brethren
+of the Böhmer-Wald by the bright and trenchant Danube, has given rise
+to many speculations amongst the geologists of Germany; but while the
+learned are at loggerheads respecting this natural phenomenon, the
+honest people who reside in its neighbourhood, and who, therefore,
+surely have a right to a voice on the subject, have settled the
+question completely to their own satisfaction. The Devil, say they,
+hating the Deggendorfers, for their piety, determined to destroy them
+outright; and, with that intention, brought a rock from Italy, (none in
+the neighbourhood, I presume, being <span class="pagenum">53</span>
+
+suitable to his purpose,) with the malicious intention of hurling it
+upon the devoted town of Deggendorf, and crushing it, with all its
+inhabitants, into the Danube. Passing opposite to Kloster-Metten, “half
+flying, half on foot,” with this formidable missile under his arm,
+the bells of the convent rang for the Ave Maria! The virtue of the
+holy sounds was immediately felt by the arch apostate. “Gnashing for
+anguish, and despite, and shame,” he dropped the mountain “like a hot
+potatoe,” and there, where it fell, it stands to this day; an immutable
+proof of the power of bell-ringing, and a monument of the piety and
+narrow escape of the Deggendorfers. In the castle, on its crest, Duke
+Albert of Austria besieged his faithless favourite Peter Ecker, A.D.
+1347; and Henry of Landshut was educated within its walls, from which
+circumstance he obtained the additional sirname of the Natternberger.
+The castle was reduced to its present ruinous state by the Swedes,
+and now belongs to a Count of Preising. From the little place, called
+Fischerdorf, at the foot of the mountain, the town of Deggendorf
+<span class="pagenum">54</span> is seen lying in a beautiful valley,
+surrounded by hills that rise in circles, each above the other, and
+having in front the Danube; here broader than in any other part of
+Bavaria, (nearly one thousand two hundred feet,) across which is a
+wooden bridge, supported by twenty-six piers, but built so slightly, in
+order that it may be easily removed to give an annual passage to the
+ice, that Schultes says, it shakes under the curvetting of a single
+horse. Of the ancient history of Deggendorf very little is known, its
+records having been all destroyed; some by the Swedes, under Bernhard
+von Weimar, and the rest by fire, in 1638.</p>
+
+<p>Pilgrims, from all parts of Germany, flock to Deggendorf upon Saint
+Michael’s eve, which is a celebrated Gnade-zeit, (time of grace,) when
+absolution is granted to all comers, in consequence of some miraculous
+circumstances that, in the year 1337, attended the purloining and
+insulting of the Host by a woman and some Jews; who, having bought the
+consecrated wafer from her, scratched it with thorns till it bled, and
+the image of a child <span class="pagenum">55</span> appeared; baked
+it, vision and all, in an oven; hammered it upon an anvil, the block of
+which is still shown to the pilgrim; attempted to cram it down “their
+accursed throats,” (I quote the words of the original description,)
+but were prevented by the hands and feet of the vision aforesaid; and
+finally, despairing to destroy it, flung it into a well, which was
+immediately surrounded by a nimbus, etc. I should not have noticed
+these disgusting falsehoods, but for the melancholy fact, that the
+circulation of this trumpery story was considered a sufficient cause,
+by the <i>pious</i> Deggendorfers, for the indiscriminate massacre of
+all the wretched Jews in the place; which infamous and bloody deed was
+perpetrated the day after St. Michael, sanctioned by <i>Christian</i>
+priests, who, in grand procession, carried back the indestructible
+wafer to the church, and solemnly approved, in 1489, by Pope Innocent
+VIII., who issued his bull for the general absolution abovementioned<a
+id="FNank_19" href="#FN_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>. Above fifty
+<span class="pagenum">56</span> thousand pilgrims assembled here in
+1801; and as late as 1815, so considerable were their numbers, that the
+greater part of them passed the night in the streets of the town, and
+in the fields in its neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The moon had set before we passed Deggendorf, but the night was
+light enough to see the “Isar rolling rapidly,” through its many
+mouths, to join the mighty Danube; and the spire of Plattling in the
+distance, a tolerably sized market-town, where there is a bridge across
+the former river, and the post-house, between Straubing and Vilshofen.
+Below this bridge, the raft-masters of Munich, who leave that <span
+class="pagenum">57</span> city every Monday for Vienna, unite their
+rafts before they enter the Danube. They descend the Isar upon single
+rafts only; but upon reaching this point they lash them together in
+pairs, and in fleets of three, four, or six pairs, they set out for
+Vienna. A voyage is made pleasantly enough upon these floating islands,
+as they have all the agrémens without the confinement of a boat. A very
+respectable promenade can be made from one end to the other, and two or
+three huts erected upon them afford shelter in bad weather and repose
+at night.</p>
+
+<p>Isargemünd, situated in one of the many islands, at the confluence
+of the rivers, is the only village on your right till you reach
+Thundorf, where there is a ferry over to Nieder Altaich; on the left
+are the Halbe-meile-kirche, and two or three small hamlets.</p>
+
+<p>Nieder Altaich, another Benedictine convent<a id="FNank_20"
+href="#FN_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>, and, at one time, the most
+<span class="pagenum">58</span> important that the order possessed in
+Bavaria; its annual income being not less than one hundred thousand
+florins; stands at the foot of the frowning Böhmer-wald, which here
+again bends its bushy brows upon the bright river. Saint Parminius
+is said to have acted the same scene here which has already been
+described in the notice of Ober Altaich. And Uttilo II., not contented
+with having founded that kloster, brought hither an equal number of
+monks from the same monastery of Reichenau, and established them in
+a like manner. Its abbot soon became the richest in Bavaria; but the
+Hungarians, in the tenth century, ravaged the country with fire and
+sword, and Nieder Altaich suffered the fate of its prototype. In 990,
+however, it was rebuilt, and still more richly endowed by the Emperor
+Otto, and Henry Duke of Bavaria. Saint Gotthard came barefooted from
+Reichersdorf, where he <span class="pagenum">59</span> was born in
+965, of humble parents, and from a monk became abbot, and lastly,
+bishop of Hildesheim, where he died, A.D. 1035. The monks of Nieder
+Altaich, it appears, gradually forgot the pious lessons and fair
+example of Saint Gotthard; which, during his life, had materially
+improved the reputation of the community; for in 1282, we find them
+making a riddle of their abbot with arrows, from an ambush on the
+river side, as he is crossing the ferry to Thundorf<a id="FNank_21"
+href="#FN_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>. The abbots, themselves, also,
+were many of them unworthy successors of that holy man. One of the last
+superiors of this kloster, for instance, by name Augustin Ziegler, not
+contented with expending annually upwards of ninety thousand florins,
+ran the fraternity into a debt of nearly one hundred thousand before
+he was <i>invited</i> to retire from the cares of office, and live in
+peace at Straubing, upon a slender annuity. In the “Topographischen
+Lexicon von Baiern,” 2s., 508., is the following account of this worthy
+<span class="pagenum">60</span> prelate, who seems to have formed a
+very tolerable idea of the “otium cum dignitate,” which should bless
+an abbot of Benedictines. “Besides his valet he had two pages. On his
+name-day all the principal persons of the government of Straubing
+assembled in the grand refectory of Nieder Altaich. A band of trumpets
+and kettle-drums was in attendance, from daybreak, facing his chamber
+window, and the moment his Excellency (for he had purchased the title
+of a privy councillor) opened his eyes, the pages undrew the curtains
+of cloth of gold, amidst a flourish from the trumpets and kettle-drums
+without, while a battery of small mortars proclaimed in thunder to the
+surrounding country, the dawning of the name-day of this important
+personage.” His conduct, however, soon became so notorious that he was
+compelled to resign, and retire upon an annual allowance of two hundred
+ducats and ten eimers of wine. Ten times has this kloster been burned
+down, and rebuilt each time more magnificently; till at last, if we
+may believe Lackner’s account, the <span class="pagenum">61</span>
+very oxen of the community eat out of marble mangers—“pecora fecit in
+marmore pabulari!”</p>
+
+<p>A little beyond Nieder Altaich, upon the same bank, is the town
+of Hengersberg, with its old castle, given, in 1212, by Altnann von
+Helingersberg to Saint Mauritius, then abbot of that kloster. The
+Danube formerly flowed over part of the bank, and, what is now the
+lazzar-house, was, at that time, the river toll-house. At Hengersberg,
+the Danube again turns from the Bohemian mountains, as wearied with
+its unavailing efforts to penetrate the giant line; but the gentle
+eminences which still skirt its left bank are enough to preserve its
+superiority to that of the right, which, all the way from Ratisbon,
+with the solitary exception of the Natternberg, had not presented one
+hillock to break the long, low line of shore, more in keeping with the
+sluggish stream of a Dutch canal, than with the rapid waves of the
+“boiling Danube,” an epithet, by the bye, more descriptive than any
+other of its singular current, which, whether running fast or slowly,
+<span class="pagenum">62</span> keeps up a constant whirling, eddying,
+and bubbling, accompanied by a low hissing sound which (pardon, gentle
+reader, the humble comparison) reminded our English ears of nothing
+so much as the singing of a tea-kettle. After passing a handful of
+villages, whose almost unpronounceable names shall be presented
+hereafter, in their due order, to the curious in consonants, we glided
+by Osterhofen, a little town on the side of a small hill, a short
+distance from the shore. It is one of the oldest towns in Bavaria, and
+was the site of the Castra Petrensia. The Avars, who desolated the
+banks of the Danube during the sixth, seventh, and eighth centuries,
+here suffered a serious defeat; and the victory having been gained on
+an Easter Sunday, the town took the name of <i>Oster</i>-hofen, and
+still bears in its arms a Paschal lamb. In the meadow where the battle
+was fought, and named from that event, “Oster-wiese,” stood Kloster
+Oster-hofen, erected in honour of, and gratitude for, the defeat of
+the barbarians. Hither Uttilo II. brought some more of his friends,
+the Benedictines; but the barbarians returned in 765, thirsting <span
+class="pagenum">63</span> for vengeance, and gratified it by razing the
+Kloster to the ground. It was rebuilt, but the rest of its history is
+neither clear nor interesting. The indefatigable Uttilo is supposed to
+have been buried here, where also lie, according to report, which may
+be said to <i>lie</i> also, nine of the eleven thousand virgins who
+suffered martyrdom with Saint Ursula at Cologne.</p>
+
+<p>Below Osterhofen, on the left, are the picturesque ruins of the
+Castle of Hoch-Winzer, or Ober-Winzer, over the little town of the
+same name. Both town and castle received this appellation from the
+considerable vineyards which flourished here; but who the Lords of
+Winzer were, or what feats they achieved, Schultes says he has not
+been able to discover: all that is known about them is, that they
+lie buried at Osterhofen. The Pandours reduced the castle to its
+present ruinous condition in 1741<a id="FNank_22" href="#FN_22"
+class="fnanchor">[22]</a>. Flinschbach, built, in 1230, by the
+<span class="pagenum">64</span> Counts of Bogen, and three or four
+other villages of still less note, on each side of the river, enliven
+the scene, till the ruins of the Castle of Hofkirchen rise on the left
+bank; in the fourteenth century, the residence of the powerful Counts
+of Ortenburg, the sworn enemies of the Counts of Bogen, and the terror
+of all navigators of the Danube. <span class="pagenum">65</span>
+What, with barefaced plundering, and the exercise of a self-erected
+right, called “grundruhr,” which literally signifies grounding,
+scarcely a vessel escaped the clutches of these robber lords. This
+right of grundruhr entitled them to take possession of every vessel,
+with its crew and cargo, that grounded upon any bank, shoal, or
+island, within their domain. If it but grated on the sand, or brushed
+the shore, it was immediately pronounced “grundrürhrig” by the armed
+vassals of the noble bandit, who were continually on the watch, and
+who made no scruple of chasing the unfortunate schiffers till they
+drove them aground, and then coolly laid <i>legal</i> claim to their
+property.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly opposite Winzer is Kinzing, or Kinzen, the Castra Quintana,
+or Augusta Quintanorum Colonia of the Romans, upon a small height,
+from whence a little brook leaps into the Danube. Several miracles are
+related of Saint Severinus, who resided here during the fifth century,
+how he saved the place from inundation, by planting a cross on the
+river’s bank; how he brought his dead friend Sylvin to life again, in
+the <span class="pagenum">66</span> wooden church that stood outside
+the walls, and how Sylvin took it in exceeding ill part, and insisted
+on dying again immediately. “I beg of thee, I conjure thee,” exclaimed
+the indignant Sylvin, “not to rouse me from the rest which God has
+appointed for me! Why hast thou awakened me? Why hast thou brought me
+back into a world, into which I never more wish to return?” The Saint,
+I suspect, looked uncommonly silly on receiving this unexpected rap on
+the knuckles: his apology, if one he made, has not come down to us.
+The <i>fact</i> is related on the authority of a young peasant girl,
+who hid herself in the church, on purpose to witness the miracle which
+she suspected was about to be performed; and it would be the height of
+impertinence, under such circumstances, to inquire into particulars.</p>
+
+<p>By the time we had reached Kinzing,</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<p class="cc">
+<span>“Morn, her rosy steps in th’ orient clime,</span><br>
+<span>Advancing, sowed the earth with eastern pearl;”</span><br>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>And as we made the point which brought us in view of the fine old
+ruin of Hildegartsberg, the sun rising immediately behind it <span
+class="pagenum">67</span> shot his glorious rays, like golden arrows;
+through the loop-holes and windows of its bare and blackened walls,
+that frowned still darker from the blaze of light behind them. It
+was a scene in which the spirit of that daring artist, Turner, would
+have revelled. My companion, who had given me tolerable proofs during
+our passage from London to Ostend; that he could “sleep in spite of
+thunder,” was awakened by my raptures; and we stood, at the head of
+the boat, gazing at the beautiful picture, and basking in the welcome
+beams of “the great lamp by which the world is blest,” till the river,
+suddenly taking a new direction, brought us again into the shadow of
+the left bank, and showed us Vilshofen, with its long light bridge
+and pretty gardens laughing in the sunshine, at the farther extremity
+of the valley we had now entered. Little appears to be known about
+Hildegartsberg further than that it was like so many other castles on
+the Rhine, the Danube, etc., the hold of some robber knight, noble, or
+priest, of the middle ages, and destroyed by Duke Albert of Austria, in
+1346.</p>
+
+<p>That most delightful of all chroniclers, <span
+class="pagenum">68</span> Froissart, who commenced his interesting
+annals shortly after this period, gives a lamentable account of
+the brutality and avarice of the nobility and clergy of Germany.
+“When a German hath taken a prisoner,” (says he,) “he putteth him
+into irons, and into hard prison, without any pity, to make him
+pay the greater finance and ransom.”<a id="FNank_23" href="#FN_23"
+class="fnanchor">[23]</a> Again, “They are a covetous people above all
+other. They have no pity if they have the upper hand, and they demean
+themselves with cruelty to their prisoners. They put them to sundry
+pains, to compel them to make their ransoms greater; and, if they have
+a lord or a great man for their captive, they make great joy thereof,
+and will convey him into Bohemia, Austria, or Saxony, and keep him
+in some uninhabitable castle. They are people worse than Saracens or
+Paynims; for their excessive covetousness quencheth the knowledge of
+honour;”<a id="FNank_24" href="#FN_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> and
+Schmidt<a id="FNank_25" href="#FN_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> tells
+us, that an archbishop thought he had a fair revenue before him, when
+he built his fortress on the junction of four “roads.”</p>
+
+<p> <span class="pagenum">69</span> Nearly facing Hildegartsberg is
+Pleinting, a small market-town, at which the plain stretching from
+the gates of Regensburg, along the right bank of the Danube, at last
+terminates, and the beauty of the river really commences. The road
+from Straubing runs beside it, upon a sort of terrace, and the sight
+of a post-chariot whirling along, recalled our wandering thoughts from
+the dark but interesting ages into which the contemplation of ruined
+tower and cloister grey had led them, to the less romantic, but, in
+our situation, equally interesting prospect, of a good inn and a
+capital breakfast. Alas! it seemed as if neither were to be found in
+Vilshofen, or, at least, that it was decreed we should not meet with
+them. Gilt lions, red stags, white horses, and blue bulls; apples and
+orange trees, as a herald would say, “proper;” crowns and coronets,
+and heads every way worthy of them; suns, moons, and stars, “yea, the
+great globe itself,” swung to and fro in the morning breeze, in every
+direction, and in endless variety; but in vain, from spot to spot,
+“with courteous action, they waved us to a more removed ground.” The
+exteriors <span class="pagenum">70</span> of these caravanserais alone
+were promising. If “houses of entertainment” they were, that quality
+seemed entirely restricted to the outside. Their newly white-washed
+walls, and neatly painted green doors and shutters, surmounted by one
+of the glittering ensigns aforesaid, but served to make the dark gulf
+of the long, low-roofed, rambling, unfurnished, smoky speise-saal,
+appear more dreary, dirty, and uncomfortable; and it was some time
+before even hunger, that least ceremonious of all sensations, could
+induce us to make the plunge. Having at last screwed up our courage
+to the sticking-place, we rushed into—the Moon, I believe; made the
+hostess stare, by drinking four or five “portions” of coffee, which
+turned out better than we expected, and ate a most respectable quantum
+of tolerable “butter brod” and half a dozen eggs; for the whole of
+which we paid twenty kreutzers (about sixpence English) each, being
+then charged at least double what would have been demanded of their own
+countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>Vilshofen was the Villa Quintanica of the Romans, and is situated at
+the confluence <span class="pagenum">71</span> of the river Vils with
+the Danube. Rapoto, Count of Ortenburg, fortified it in the eleventh
+century; and its history from that period is little more than an
+unbroken narrative of takings and retakings, plunderings and burnings,
+down to the end of the last war. Its principal trade is in beer; for
+a particular sort of which beverage it has been long celebrated: and
+its principal building is an ecclesiastical establishment, for which I
+cannot find an English name to my liking, that owes its foundation to
+the following circumstance:—Heinrich Tuschl, knight of Saldenau, upon
+ocular proof of his wife’s infidelity, condemned the miserable woman
+to be walled up alive, abjured the company, and shunned the sight of
+females, and left the greater part of his property in 1376 to found
+this establishment. Upon the charter was written:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    <span>“2 Hund an ain Bain;</span><br>
+    <span>&nbsp; Ich Tuschl bleib allain.”</span><br><br>
+    <span>“Two dogs to one bone;</span><br>
+    <span>&nbsp; I Tuschl bide alone.”<a id="FNank_26" href="#FN_26"
+    class="fnanchor">[26]</a></span><br>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p> <span class="pagenum">72</span> Having re-embarked and passed
+under the wooden bridge, on the centre of which is a crucifix, we
+passed by Hacheldorf, which forms a kind of suburb to Vilshofen, and
+the market town of Windorf, famous for boat-building. Near Hansbach the
+little Wolfach falls into the Danube; and below this spot the river
+boils over numberless sunken rocks, many of which show their white
+heads above the water, studding the stream in all directions. Shortly
+afterwards the river narrows, and a slight fall, or what our sailors
+call a race, ensues. The watermen, who magnify the little difficulties
+of this navigation into the most astounding dangers, call this “das
+gefürchtete Sandbach!” The cottages on the banks now assumed a Swiss
+appearance, being all of wood, with galleries across their gables,
+and far-projecting roofs. A slight change was also perceivable in the
+costume of the women; the little black silk cap, with its long ribbon
+streamers, had given place to a dark-coloured cotton handkerchief,
+bound closely round the head, and tied in a knot behind, the ends
+hanging down. The impetus given to the current by the little fall now
+carried <span class="pagenum">73</span> us merrily along, to the great
+delight of our lazy boatmen, who made it a point of conscience not to
+wag a finger when they could possibly avoid it, past Gaishofen, where
+a small stream called the Gaisach joins the Danube, and Heining on the
+right bank, and Dobelstein (formerly called Engelberg) on the left.
+For a new road cut through the rocks on the very brink of the river,
+by which nearly six English miles are saved in posting to Passau,
+Bavaria and its visiters are indebted to Maximilian-Joseph, the father
+of the present monarch, Louis I. who, treading in the footsteps of his
+excellent sire, inherits not only his crown but the affection of his
+people; and by his unbounded kindness and liberality to the professors
+of the fine arts, has obtained throughout the continent the honourable
+addition to his style, of “the King of the Learned.” In the tour, of
+which this descent of the Danube formed a part, I travelled nearly
+all over Bavaria, and had the gratification of hearing the praises of
+its king from all lips and in all places; not the mere mouth-homage
+which betrays itself by the cold precision of the language in which
+it is <span class="pagenum">74</span> couched, but the ebullition
+of feeling rushing pure from the heart, and leaping the barriers of
+ceremony in its honest ardour. “Our king is a good fellow,” is the
+homely but expressive phrase in which his character is invariably
+summed up by all who speak of him. Shortly after he came to the throne,
+he disbanded an expensive body-guard, and on being questioned as to
+the policy of the act, he replied, “We are at peace; why should I
+burden my people with an unnecessary expense? as for myself, I want no
+regiment to protect me, my fellow-citizens are my body-guard.” In a
+very handsome new street erecting in Munich by his order, there is an
+unseemly gap occasioned by an antique isolated house standing edgeways
+in the centre of the modern buildings. On expressing our surprise that
+it was allowed to remain there, we were told that it belonged to an
+old general, who had resisted every proposal for its demolition, and
+it having been suggested to the king to compel him, his answer was,
+“No, no, let him have his way; he is an old man, and has perchance
+but a few years to live; I will not abridge their number by <span
+class="pagenum">75</span> annoying him.” His majesty frequently takes
+a country walk alone, or with but one attendant, and, dressed like a
+farmer, chats freely and jocularly with the peasantry; never leaving
+them, however, without some mark of his bounty.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot be expected to vouch for the truth of these anecdotes as
+far as regards their details or the exact expressions used, but they
+are amongst the many in general circulation; and an excellent modern
+tourist has justly remarked, that “an anecdote in general circulation,
+even though not strictly true in point of fact, will commonly be
+accordant to the character of the person of whom it is related, and
+will thus be a correct, though perhaps a fictitious illustration of his
+mode of acting.” The person of Louis is worthy his noble character;
+intelligence and spirit are visible in every line of his countenance;
+a high forehead, large and deeply-set dark eyes, to which a profusion
+of black hair, pushed carelessly off the temples, and dark upturned
+mustachios, would give something like an expression of fierceness, were
+it not for the benignant smile which plays about his mouth when <span
+class="pagenum">76</span> addressing you. His queen, too, is renowned
+for her beauty and affability; and, in short, a more handsome and
+deservedly popular pair never graced a continental throne.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the Danube, from whence I have wandered to pay my
+humble tribute of praise to one of the best of monarchs. By the side
+of the new road before mentioned is the statue of a lion-couchant
+upon a pedestal, and placed upon a jutting rock, with an inscription
+beneath it stating the chaussée to have been made by command of
+Maximilian-Joseph I., King of Bavaria. In a few minutes after you have
+passed this monument, the towers of the church of Maria-hilf appear
+above the hills, and shortly afterwards the cathedral of Passau, and
+the old fort of Oberhaus on the opposite height, are seen rising over
+the foliage of an island in the centre of the river. The approach to
+the city between the island and the left bank is most beautiful; and
+whoever is acquainted with the scenery of the Rhine will immediately
+acknowledge, that it has not improperly obtained the appellation of
+“the Coblentz of the Danube.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   III. -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">77</span>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Passau — The Inn-stadt — The Fair — The Cathedral — The Bridge —
+Fortress of Oberhaus — Celebrated View — Maria-hilf — The Ilz-stadt
+— The Sword Cutlery — Present Manufactures and Commerce of Passau
+— Talismans — Goitres — Excursions into the Environs of Passau —
+Confluence of the Inn and the Danube — Krempenstein — Hafner Zell — Its
+Manufactories — Fichtenstein — The Jochenstein — The Ruin of Ried.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A spot where three rivers meet, amidst a quadruple chain of
+mountains, rising four hundred feet above the level of the water, was
+not likely to escape the notice of the ancient lords of the world,
+and consequently the Romans built, upon the promontory between the
+Inn and the Danube, their “Castra Batava.” The Inn-stadt, on the
+right bank of the Inn, and which is connected with Passau by a bridge
+across that river, was the Roman Bojodurum. In St. Severin’s time it
+was called Boitro. The saint saved the city from the wrath of Gibuld,
+King of Swabia, but it was destroyed by Chunimund, the successor of
+<span class="pagenum">78</span> Gibuld, while Severin was at his
+kloster near Vienna, A.D. 475. Bibilo, Bishop of Lorch, flying from
+the destroying Avars, was received with open arms by Uttilo II., who
+built for him here, at the eastern end of the city, the Nonnen-kloster
+of Nidernburg, A.D. 739. About one hundred and fifty years later,
+the successors of this bishop modestly laid claim to the whole city;
+and kept it in defiance of king and kaiser, till the year 1802,
+shortly after which period it was secularized and given to the Grand
+Duke of Tuscany. The bishopric of Passau, under its ecclesiastical
+princes, included (besides the city of Passau, the Inn-stadt, and the
+Ilz-stadt,) the castles of Marsbach and Rana-riedl, the market-towns
+of Ebersberg and Ips, the towns of Mautern, Amstetten, Greifenstein,
+Stockerau, St. Andre, and many other places in Austria, nearly the
+whole of the present bishopric of Linz, and a large portion of Bohemia.
+One of these sovereign prelates, of the family of Hohenloe, ran the
+bishopric; notwithstanding its immense revenues, into considerable
+debt, while, <span class="pagenum">79</span> with great affectation of
+piety and contempt for the pomps and vanities of this life, he caused
+to be inscribed on the walls of his palace, “O Welt! O böse Welt!” (“O
+world! O wicked world!”) upon which a waggish dean wrote under, as in
+continuation of the sentence, “Wie übel verzehrst Du des Hochstifts
+Geld!” (“How ill dost thou consume the chapter’s gold!”) At the same
+time let us not forget that we are, perhaps, indebted to a Bishop of
+Passau for the preservation of that most interesting, as well as most
+ancient, specimen of Teutonic romance, the Nibelungen-lied. Pelegrin,
+or Pilgerin, Bishop of Passau, who died in 991, collected the then
+current legends of the Nibelungen, which he committed to writing in the
+favourite Latin tongue, with the assistance of his scribe Conrad, whose
+name has occasioned the Swabian poem to be sometimes ascribed to Conrad
+of Wurtzburg, who lived long after.<a id="FNank_27" href="#FN_27"
+class="fnanchor">[27]</a> On the 2d of August, 1552, was signed here
+the celebrated treaty, or <span class="pagenum">80</span> pacification
+of Passau, by the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, as representative of
+his brother, the Emperor Charles V., and Maurice of Saxony, in the name
+of the Protestant party.</p>
+
+<p>In 1610, the Emperor Rudolph raised a body of troops in the diocese
+of Passau, which, on his reconciliation the same year with his
+brother Matthias, he affected to disband, at the same time purposely
+withholding their pay, in order to afford them a pretext for invading
+Bohemia. The troops accordingly, under the command of their leader
+Ramée, burst into Upper Austria, spreading themselves over the country
+beyond the Danube, and after committing every species of devastation,
+passed into Bohemia, where they were at last defeated near Prague,
+after they had extorted three hundred thousand florins from the
+Emperor<a id="FNank_28" href="#FN_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>On entering the city we found it was fair time, and the square
+before the cathedral <span class="pagenum">81</span> was filled with
+booths, and gay with peasantry in their holiday dresses. Prints and
+pipe-heads, cotton handkerchiefs of the most staring colours, and the
+splendid gold and silver caps worn by the women of the neighbourhood,
+amongst which we saw, for the first time, the magnificent and tasteful
+Linzer Haube, were the principal articles for sale; but it did not
+appear to us that there were many purchasers. The cathedral has nothing
+to boast of in the way of architecture or painting. The present
+building dates from the year 1662, the former edifice having been
+destroyed by fire. Not having much time to spare, we hastened across
+the bridge over the Danube into the Ilz-stadt, on the left bank, and
+ascended the winding staircase cut in the rock, to the fortress of
+Oberhaus, the Ehrenbreitstein of Passau. It was a broiling business,
+under a vertical sun, but we were told the view from the summit would
+amply repay us for any fatigue we might endure in the ascent; and
+breathless with expectation, as well as exertion, we stood at length
+upon the brow of the mountain. But little was to be seen from that
+spot, <span class="pagenum">82</span> except the tops of the towers,
+and the houses of Passau, and we walked on through ploughed fields, a
+curious sight in such a situation, to the fortress, from the walls of
+which we expected to realize our excited hopes. But though permitted
+to enter the building, sentinels at each angle checked every attempt
+to gain a commanding situation, with their eternal “es ist verboden;”
+and hot, weary, and disappointed, we prepared to “march down again,”
+when a fortunate chance led us to the wished-for spot. Whether it
+was not the right one, or that our previous annoyances had rendered
+us captious and discontented, I cannot pretend to say, but certainly
+the view, though extraordinary enough in character, fell woefully
+short of our expectations in point of extent and beauty. The Inn is
+seen writhing through its mountain gorge, to join the Danube, which
+at this point it much exceeds in width, and the church of Maria-hilf,
+on its bluff rock above the Inn-stadt, forms a fine object in the
+fore-ground. But the hills are too lofty, notwithstanding the elevation
+on which one is placed, to permit the eye to follow the windings of
+<span class="pagenum">83</span> the two rivers to any distance, and
+the view from the water, at the point of their confluence, is, in my
+opinion, far preferable. The old fort of Oberhaus was built in 1219, by
+Bishop Ulrich, to keep the citizens of Passau in awe<a id="FNank_29"
+href="#FN_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>. Maria-hilf was once, and I
+believe is still, a celebrated place of pilgrimage; and here is the
+miraculous image of the Virgin, up to which the pilgrims used to crawl
+upon their knees. The infant Jesus is clasped to one breast, and from
+the other, water flows out of a little silver pipe, into the mouth of
+the pious votary. The image of the Virgin in the church of Maria-hilf
+at Vienna, was made from this model; but the Viennese have had the good
+taste to dispense with the water-pipe. In 1781, a vessel, with two
+hundred pilgrims, was wrecked on the Inn, and one hundred and fifty
+unfortunate beings perished.</p>
+
+<p>Descending into the Ilz-stadt, (the suburb of Passau, on the
+left bank, so called from the Ilz, that rolls its dark waves into
+the <span class="pagenum">84</span> Danube, beneath the fortress
+of Oberhaus,) we hailed a little market-boat that was just leaving
+the shore, and were speedily ferried over by a stout wench to the
+eastern end of Passau, where our bark lay moored while the passports
+of ourselves and crew were undergoing the regular inspection, etc.
+Notwithstanding it was fair time, there was little bustle either on
+the banks or in the town. Commerce, which once flourished so greatly
+at Passau, has of late years, from various circumstances, sadly
+declined. Its sword-cutlery, celebrated as early as the thirteenth
+century for the famous Wolfs-klingen (<i>i. e.</i> Wolf-blades,)
+was destroyed by religious persecutions, about the close of the
+sixteenth, when nearly all the workmen, two hundred of whom lived in
+the Inn-stadt alone, sought refuge in Austria. At the beginning of the
+seventeenth century a manufactory of striped paper was established,
+which supplied, in some degree, the loss of the sword-cutlery; and
+Passau is still the stapel-platz, or principal depôt for the salt of
+Bavaria, which is brought down the Salza and the Inn, from the works
+<span class="pagenum">85</span> at Hallein; but the benefit which now
+accrues to the inhabitants from this privilege is little or nothing,
+compared with what the salt trade produced to them in the middle ages,
+when they carried it on, on their own accounts. During the thirty
+years’ war, talismans were sold here, which the venders professed would
+render the wearers invulnerable. A safer speculation could scarcely
+have been imagined, as, until they had tried them, no one had a right
+to complain of imposition, and those who did try them and found them
+ineffectual, generally made the discovery too late to expose or punish
+the impostor. The people of Passau and its neighbourhood might be
+considered particularly good-looking, were it not for the hideous
+goitre, which is exceedingly common in this part of Germany. The
+appearance of this excrescence is most disgusting to the eye of the
+unaccustomed traveller, but the natives take no measures to prevent or
+to conceal it: and, indeed, both here, as in some parts of Switzerland,
+it is considered by many a beauty, instead of a deformity. Schultes
+recommends, to those who have <span class="pagenum">86</span>
+the time to make them, excursions to Formbach, Wernstein, and several
+other places in the environs of Passau, and a ramble up the wild valley
+of the Ilz, to the ruins of the old castle of Halz, the seat of an
+ancient family, that, rising into fame through the deeds of Albert the
+Valiant, in the time of Rudolph of Hapsburg, became extinct with the
+death of Count Luitprand, in 1375. We, however, had too long a journey
+in perspective to venture on including ourselves in that number, so
+late in the season, and with particular objects in view; and as our
+steersman made his appearance a few moments after we returned to
+the boat with our papers “en régle,” we were soon in the middle of
+the stream again, and rapidly bidding adieu to the Coblentz of the
+Danube.</p>
+
+<p>The view down the two rivers, (the Inn and the Danube,) from
+the point of their confluence, is, as I have already mentioned, in
+my opinion, far more beautiful though not so extraordinary as that
+obtained from the heights above them. Standing in the stern of the
+boat, and looking back on the too rapidly disappearing scene, on
+our
+<span class="pagenum">87</span>
+ right arose the long walls and
+round towers of Oberhaus, upon a range of precipices richly hung
+with wood, and full four hundred fathoms high; on our left stood
+the Maria-Hilf-berg, crowned with its church, and the houses of the
+Inn-stadt picturesquely grouped at its foot,—in the centre, the town
+of Passau, forming a salient angle upon a plane of water, nearly two
+thousand feet in width, and standing like an island between two of
+the noblest rivers in Germany. The time allowed us to contemplate
+this lovely scene, was as brief as the enjoyment was exquisite. The
+Danube, reinforced by the waves of the Inn and the Ilz, rushes, with
+redoubled speed round a rocky cape, and presto! your boat is gliding
+between banks so savage and solitary, that you can scarcely believe
+some necromantic spell has not transported you, in the twinkling of
+an eye, thousands of miles from that “peopled city,” the hum of which
+still lingers in your ear. In its eccentric course, the river now forms
+itself, as it were, into a chain of beautiful lakes, each apparently
+shut in on all sides by precipitous hills, clothed with black firs
+that
+<span class="pagenum">88</span>
+ grow down to the very water’s
+edge, while from amongst them peeps out, here and there, one of the
+little Swiss-looking cottages I have before mentioned, with perhaps
+a rustic bridge thrown across a small cleft or chasm, through which
+a mountain rivulet falls like a silver thread into the flood below.
+On doubling one of the abrupt points which produce this lake-like
+appearance, we came suddenly upon the chateau of Krempenstein, or
+Grampelstein, perched on a mass of rock, jutting out from a fir-clad
+precipice, that rises majestically behind it. It belonged, for nearly
+four hundred years, to the bishops of Passau, who, in conformity
+with the general practice of the time, levied contributions upon
+the passing vessels, translating the awkward term of robbery into
+the more legal epithet of toll. The peasantry and schiffers in the
+neighbourhood call it the Schneider-Schlossel, and tell a story of
+some poor tailor who, in flinging a dead goat into the river from
+the walls of the building, fell over with it and was drowned, a
+circumstance which they think exceedingly comical. The age of the
+building,
+<span class="pagenum">89</span>
+ and the terrific beauty of
+its situation, deserve a more interesting tradition. On turning another
+sharp corner,—forgive, gentle reader, the unnautical expression, for
+I know of none other that will so well describe the acute angles
+that present themselves at almost every thousand yards upon this
+extraordinary river,—you perceive Bürnwang, or Birchenwang, with its
+mill; and in the distance, on the left bank, the small market-town of
+Hafner or Oberzell. Little would a traveller imagine, on looking at
+this unpretending town, that its manufactures have been, from time
+immemorial, eagerly sought throughout the civilized world—that, from
+the banks of the Ganges to the Gulf of Mexico, from St. Petersburg to
+Peru, there are no articles of commerce more generally circulated and
+esteemed, than those which are fabricated in this sequestered nook
+by the hands of a few German potters. The famous crucibles, known by
+the name of Ipser or Passauer-Tiegel, are all made at Hafner-zell.
+About three hundred persons are constantly employed in this
+manufacture; but as the towns of Passau and Ips are of greater <span
+class="pagenum">90</span> consequence in the map, their names have been
+connected with the ware; and the goldsmith and chemist, while reaping
+the benefit of its industry, are ignorant probably of the existence
+of such a place as Hafner-zell. There are also here manufactories of
+black-lead pencils, and a particular sort of black earthenware, the
+materials for both of which are found in the neighbourhood, which is
+rich in mineral and other productions, worthy the attention of the
+geologist and natural historian.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Hafner-zell, on the right bank, stands the chateau
+of Fichtenstein, on the summit of a stupendous hill, clothed, like
+the rest of its giant brethren, with forests of pine and fir. A
+modern mansion is near it; and at the foot of the hill are a few poor
+cottages, with a little church, the spire of which is just visible
+above the trees. Fichtenstein belonged anciently to the Counts of
+Wasserburg, another race of knightly plunderers. Conrad, Count of
+Wasserburg and Fichtenstein, on quitting Germany for the Holy Land,
+pledged this stronghold to Ulric, Bishop of Passau, in 1218, who
+advanced a considerable sum of <span class="pagenum">91</span>
+money on the extra condition that the castle should be forfeited
+entirely if the Count did not return from Palestine. Conrad,
+however, did return, and, dying soon afterwards, left his castle
+to his lady. Bishop Gebhard, the successor of Ulric, immediately
+set up some claim to the property, and declared war against the
+countess. He was defeated, however, and taken prisoner by a
+gallant knight, upon which he proceeded to excommunicate the whole
+party. The spiritual weapon had considerably more effect than the
+temporal, and the unfortunate countess was obliged to surrender
+her castle to the bishopric of Passau, A.D. 1226<a id="FNank_30"
+href="#FN_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>. Further on, a rock <span
+class="pagenum">92</span> rises out of the middle of the river, and
+upon it stands a small building like a <span class="pagenum">93</span>
+sentry-box. It is called the Jochenstein; and from the arms of the town
+of Passau <span class="pagenum">94</span> and those of the empire
+being cut on the sides of it, is generally considered by the Schiffers,
+the Gränze, or boundary stone between Bavaria and Austria. Schultes,
+however, denies this, and tells us, that the real Gränze is the old
+tower of Ried, upon a rock facing Engelhard’s-zell. Be this as it may,
+we considered ourselves, upon the faith of our steersman, entering the
+Austrian dominions as we passed <span class="pagenum">95</span> the
+rock; and, accordingly, drank three bumpers of excellent Stein-wine
+to their imperial and royal majesties of Austria, Bavaria, and
+England, with the sincere wish that no mistaken policy might disturb
+the friendship so happily existing between the three nations, or the
+general peace and prosperity of Europe. We soon came in sight of
+Engelhard’s-zell, where the Austrian custom-house is established;
+and opposite to which rises the old tower already mentioned, upon
+the end of a long fir-clad hill. Nothing is known of the ancient
+history of this little ruin; which, according to the peasantry of the
+neighbourhood, was reduced to its present state by the Swedes. The
+whole district from Marsbach to this spot is called the Riedermark,
+and is supposed to have been, in the ninth century, the seat of the
+Rheadarii.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   IV. -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">96</span>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">AUSTRIA.<br><br>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Engelhard’s-zell — Rana-riedl — Marsbach — Wesen Urfar — Waldkirche
+— Hayenbach — The Schlägen — The Rhine and the Danube contrasted —
+Ober Michl — Neuhaus — Aschach — The paper-money of Austria — Castle
+of Schaumberg — Environs of Aschach — Ober Walsee — Story of Hans von
+Eschelberg — Sketch of the Insurrections in the seventeenth Century.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>No sooner had our boat touched the land, beside the little
+white-washed custom-house at Englehard’s-zell, than it was surrounded
+by a swarm of officials, one of whom, in the uniform of the Austrian
+police, which is, I believe, the same as that of the customs, viz. grey
+with green facings, etc., desired us to land; and, at the same time,
+we were hailed from the shore by a gentlemanlike personage, in plain
+clothes and a foraging cap, with “Messieurs, parlez-vous Français?” On
+our answer in the affirmative, he requested us to follow him into his
+bureau. Having inspected our passports, he asked us if we had anything
+to declare: I replied, not <span class="pagenum">97</span> to our
+knowledge. Had we any snuff or tobacco? Neither of us smoked or took
+snuff. Had we any almanacks, or sealed letters? No. Had we any wine,
+or beer? “Monsieur, nous avons fini tout ça en buvant à la santé de sa
+Majesté l’Empereur.” (Off went his cap; the Austrians never mention,
+or hear mentioned the title of their sovereign without uncovering.)
+Bread, butter, etc.? We had finished that too, and would be obliged to
+him if he would inform us where we could get some more. The catechism
+ended, he returned us our passports properly countersigned, and we
+concluded that we should be spared the trouble of unpacking. But, upon
+returning to the bank, we found our portmanteaus and sacs-denuit, with
+the bundles and knapsacks of our crew, spread out in awful array along
+a bench, in front of the Wirths-haus or inn, facing the landing-place.
+Our friend soon reappeared, and the portmanteaus, etc. being opened, he
+inspected their contents very closely; but with none of the rudeness
+which generally characterizes persons in his situation. He looked very
+suspiciously <span class="pagenum">98</span> at our little travelling
+library, and examined the title-page of nearly every book; my papers
+and drawings were also glanced at, but no questions were asked. He
+seemed amazingly pleased with our English dressing-cases, upon the
+razors in which, particularly, he looked with a covetous eye. “Ah!
+messieurs, vous avezlà des jolies choses!” and, courteously bowing, he
+wished us a pleasant journey, and retired.</p>
+
+<p>Having replenished our basket of provisions, and re-embarked our
+baggage, we bade adieu to Engelhardszell. Its environs are very
+beautiful, and there was formerly here a Cistertian monastery, to which
+its inhabitants gave the name of Angelorum Cella, from whence probably
+its present appellation. This monastery was founded A.D. 1293, by the
+wealthy and powerful House of Schaumberg. In 1571, the whole community
+died of the plague, and the building remained uninhabited nearly one
+hundred years. Shortly after its re-establishment, it suffered from a
+fire that broke out in the kitchen, and was rebuilt at the beginning
+of the seventeenth century. The <span class="pagenum">99</span> old
+Pfarr-kirche, or parish church, was built as early as 1230. In 1551,
+another church was erected for the same purpose, apparently, as that to
+which the Maltheser-kirche was formerly applied in Ratisbon. The horses
+were here brought annually to the door of the church, and allowed a
+peep at Saint Pancras, whose effigy graced the altar. This sight, and
+a few oats at the same time administered, were supposed to preserve
+them from all disorders for a twelvemonth. Napoleon gave Engelhardszell
+to the Prince of Wrede, who still possesses the domain, and hunts
+here occasionally. In 1626, the revolted peasantry cast chains and
+ropes across the Danube here, to prevent the Bavarians from assisting
+Herberstorf at Linz. In 1703, the Bavarians built here a small
+flotilla, with floating batteries, and threw a bridge of boats across
+the river to facilitate their communication with Bohemia.</p>
+
+<p>On the left bank, before we had entirely lost sight of
+Engelhardszell, the chateau of Rana-riedl appeared in the distance,
+on the ridge of a lofty mountain, its white and peaked turrets
+beautifully backed by the <span class="pagenum">100</span> deep blue
+sky. Beside the hill is a ravine, through which the Rana-bach brawls
+into the Danube, turning a mill, and bringing down firewood from the
+mountain forests of Bohemia. The name of this chateau first appears
+in some deeds of the fourteenth century, towards the close of which
+it belonged to a lady of the Rana family, who married a knight, named
+Stephen von Schweinbach. Shortly afterwards, it became the property
+of the grasping Bishops of Passau. Göllinger, Governor of Scharding,
+besieged it in 1486, in the name of the Duke of Bavaria, but was
+compelled to raise the siege by Hans Oberhaimer, the lord of the
+neighbouring Castle of Falkenstein, who reinforced the garrison. Two
+years afterwards, he returned and assaulted it with success. It was
+recovered by the Bishopric in 1490, and lost to it entirely in 1501,
+when it was taken by the Emperor Maximilian I., and pledged by him to
+Henry von Preuschenk. Rudolph II. gave it to the Lords of Salburg in
+1591; at the extinction of which family, it became the property of the
+Counts of Clam, A.D. 1728. The villages of Ober-Rana and Nieder-Rana
+<span class="pagenum">101</span> lie one on each side of the Danube, a
+little below this spot; and the river then making a sudden bend to the
+north, you come in sight of the Castle of Marsbach, similarly situated
+to Rana-riedl. Otto of Marsbach, in 1268, dispossessed, by force of
+arms, his father Ortulph, of this castle, and declared war against the
+Bishop of Passau. Ortulph bought it from his unnatural son, at the
+heavy price of four hundred talents, which so reduced his finances that
+he was compelled to give up the castle after all to Passau, in order
+to relieve himself from his difficulties. In 1486, it came into the
+hands of the Lords of Oberhaimer, who carried on a desperate system
+of plunder against all unfortunate travellers, whether by land or by
+water. One of these Oberhaimers attacked the boat of a counsellor of
+Steyer, Valentine Rottenburgher, and carried off booty to the amount of
+seven hundred florins, a considerable sum in those days. In 1610, the
+castle was surprised by the Passauer-volk under Ramée; and, in 1626,
+Spatt, the famous peasant chief, attacked it suddenly, and put the
+garrison to the sword. Opposite to <span class="pagenum">102</span>
+Marsbach, on the right bank, is Wesen, or Wesen-Urfar, with its ferry.
+The family of Wesen became extinct in 1230, by the death of Erchinger
+von Wesen, who was captain-general of the province of Enns, and lies
+buried at Engelhardszell. There is a famous cellar here, hewn in the
+rock, by command of the chapter of the cathedral of Passau, in which,
+it is said, you can turn a coach and four. In 1626, Adolph, Duke of
+Holstein-Gottorp, hastening with several thousand men to the relief
+of Herberstorf, landed unfortunately near this celebrated cellar. The
+temptation, I suppose, was too great for poor human nature; and the
+armed peasantry, descending from the hills before day-break, fell
+on the fuddled Swabians, as they lay “somno vinoque sepulti,” and
+slaughtered the greater part of them. The Duke himself narrowly escaped
+in his doublet, and with the loss of all his property. On the same
+bank, but on the ridge of the mountain, and half hidden by the dark
+firs that surround it, stands Waldkirche, with its crumbling ruins,
+which some call the Castle of Waldeck, and others the fortress of
+Wesen. The indefatigable <span class="pagenum">103</span> Schultes
+has been able to gain no information respecting it, except that it was
+bought some time ago by a farmer from the Prince of Wrede, most likely
+with the view of demolishing it, and building new huts with the old
+materials.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly facing Waldkirche rises the ruin of Hayenbach, or Kirchbaum,
+as it is called by the schiffers, upon the ridge of the long, lofty,
+and nearly perpendicular mountain, which terminates the chain on
+this side the valley, and forms a promontory, round which the river,
+suddenly and rapidly wheeling, completely doubles itself, and enters
+a narrow defile, the romantic, and I may say awful, beauty of which
+surpasses all description. So acute is the angle here made by the
+Danube, that the ruin of Hayenbach, though consisting of only one
+quadrangular and not very lofty tower, now presents its northern side
+to the eye in apparently the same situation that it did its southern
+side scarcely ten minutes before. Enormous crags, piled one upon the
+other, to the height of from three to four hundred fathoms; their
+weather-blanched <span class="pagenum">104</span> pinnacles starting
+up amongst the black firs and tangled shrubs, that struggle to clothe
+each rugged pyramid from its base to its apex, form the entrance to
+this grand and gloomy gorge through which the mighty stream now boils
+and hurries, winding and writhing, till at length you become so utterly
+bewildered, that nothing but a compass can give you the slightest
+idea of the direction of its course. The Castle of Hayenbach, which
+seems to guard this extraordinary pass, belonged, in the fifteenth
+century, to the Oberhaimers, the Lords of Falkenstein and Marsbach,
+of whom I have already spoken, and who, no doubt, found it admirably
+situated for the prosecution of that predatory warfare in which they
+“lived, moved, and had their being.” Falkenstein, with which this
+Castle of Hayenbach, or Kirchbaum, is confounded, lies above Rana,
+and is not visible from the Danube, and the same vague tradition is
+attached to each ruin; namely, that it was originally built by a knight
+of the thirteenth century, who, having slain his brother, passed
+the rest of <span class="pagenum">105</span> his days with an only
+daughter in that castellated hermitage<a id="FNank_31" href="#FN_31"
+class="fnanchor">[31]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>For upwards of an hour we glided through scenes increasing in
+sublimity, and calling forth exclamations of wonder and delight, till
+my companion and I mutually confessed that we had exhausted our stock
+of epithets, and stood gazing in far more expressive silence on the
+stupendous precipices which towered above us, almost to the exclusion
+of daylight, their jagged sides</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+  “Horrid with fern, and intricate with thorn;”
+</p>
+
+<p>and on the rapid stream that, like Milton’s Fiend,</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<p class="cc">
+  “. . . Through the palpable obscure toiled out<br>
+  His uncouth passage . . .<br>
+  &nbsp; . . . plunged in the womb<br>
+  Of unoriginal night and chaos wild.”
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The pencil of a Salvator Rosa could alone do justice to these
+wondrous scenes. The grandest views upon the Rhine sink into
+insignificance, when compared with the magnificent pictures which
+the Danube here presents us at every turn. The two rivers would have
+admirably illustrated <span class="pagenum">106</span> Burke’s
+‘Essay on the Sublime and Beautiful.’ Nature has contrasted them
+precisely according to the rules he has laid down in the twenty-seventh
+section of his Third Part. “Sublime objects,” says he, “are <i>vast
+in their dimensions</i>, beautiful ones <i>comparatively small</i>:
+beauty should be <i>smooth and polished</i>; the great, <i>rugged
+and negligent</i>: beauty should <i>shun the right line</i>, yet
+<i>deviate from it insensibly</i>; the great, in many cases, <i>loves
+the right line</i>, and, when it deviates, it often makes <i>a strong
+deviation</i>: beauty should <i>not be obscure</i>; the great ought to
+<i>be dark and gloomy</i>: beauty should be <i>light and delicate</i>;
+the great ought to be <i>solid, and even massive</i>.” The substitution
+of the words “Rhine” for “Beauty,” and of “Danube” for “great,” is
+nearly all that is necessary to change his general comparison into
+individual portraits of these rival floods, if rivalry may be said to
+exist between two opposite species of perfection.</p>
+
+<p>The ruins on the banks of the Rhine, thickly interspersed as they
+are with smiling villages, busy towns, and sunny vineyards, swarming
+with holiday tourists, <span class="pagenum">107</span> and echoing
+to the whips of Prussian postilions, and the rattle of Prussian
+schnel-wagens, are more like modern antiques erected on the confines
+of some gentleman’s park, than the bona fide relics of that truly iron
+age, “the days of the shield and the spear.” From Mayence to Cologne
+there is scarcely one mile of uninterrupted wild scenery; and even if
+there were, the charm would be broken by some pert galley, with its
+white awning and gaudy flag, some lumbering Dutch beurtschiff, or,
+worse than all, the monstrous anachronism of a steam-boat, splashing,
+sputtering, and fuming along at the rate of twelve miles an hour. The
+mouldering towers that totter upon the crags of the Danube, on the
+contrary, are surrounded by scenery rude as the times in which they
+were reared, and savage as the warriors who dwelt in them. Nothing
+seems changed but themselves. The solitary boat that now and then
+glides by them, is of the same fashion as that on which their marauding
+masters sallied down, perhaps, three hundred years ago. The humble
+cottages that here and there peep through the eternal firs, and the
+<span class="pagenum">108</span> church that rears its dusky spire
+upon some neighbouring hill, are of the same age. The costume of the
+poor straggling fishermen and woodcutters around them is scarcely
+altered; and, indeed, one cannot look upon their own walls, blackened
+by fire, and crumbling in the blast, as they mostly are, without
+conjuring up the form of their ancient lord newly returned from
+Palestine, and finding his mountain-fastness burnt and pillaged by
+some neighbouring knight or prelate, with whom he was at feud, and on
+whom he now stands meditating swift and bloody retribution. For hours
+and hours the traveller may wind through these rocky defiles without
+meeting one object to scare the spirit of romance, which rises here in
+all her gloomy grandeur before him. From Passau to Vienna there is but
+one city, Linz, where the glare of modern uniforms, and the rumbling
+of modern vehicles, would dissipate the spell; and, much as I admire
+convenient and expeditious travelling, I should almost weep to see
+a bustling post-road cut beside the lonely Schlägen<a id="FNank_32"
+href="#FN_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>, or a steam-boat floundering
+<span class="pagenum">109</span> and smoking through the Strudel and
+the Wirpel<a id="FNank_33" href="#FN_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of a small opening on the left bank, through which
+the Kleine-Michl ripples into the Danube, stands Ober-Michl, the only
+village of any consequence in this wilderness. In 1809, the Bohemian
+landwehr, under Colonel Hartman, took many of the French boats laden
+with provisions, near the spot. The Bavarian flotilla, under cover
+of the night and by dropping silently down the stream, escaped their
+notice. After passing two or three small groups of huts, another whirl
+of the river to the north-east brought us in front of the remarkable
+chateau of Neuhaus. Ranged along the brow of a perpendicular rock that
+seems to bar your further progress, stand three distinct buildings,
+(at least so they appear from the river,) giving you more the idea of
+a town than a castle. Far beneath them, but still at a considerable
+height from the water, upon a ledge <span class="pagenum">110</span>
+
+of the rock, is perched a quadrangular ruin, the Toll-tower, no doubt,
+where the retainers of the Counts of Schaumberg, to whom Neuhaus
+belonged in the fourteenth century, were stationed to exact the tribute
+from the trembling schiffers.</p>
+
+<p>In one of the many quarrels between the Counts of Schaumberg and the
+Duke of Austria, Neuhaus fell into the possession of the latter, but
+it was subsequently recovered, and many of the first nobles of Upper
+Austria were Castellans of Neuhaus for the House of Schaumberg. In 1510
+it was annexed to the empire by Maximilian I., and pledged, in 1536,
+by Ferdinand I., for eight thousand silver pfennings, to the Baron of
+Springenstein, to whose heir it was afterwards presented as a free
+gift by Rudolph II. When the Turks, during the reign of the Emperor
+Charles V. burst into Hungary, and threatened Austria with invasion,
+Neuhaus was the asylum to which the women and children flew from all
+quarters. In the war between Rudolph II. and his brother Matthias,
+the troops raised by the former at Passau threw two chains across the
+Danube at this spot, one <span class="pagenum">111</span> of which was
+forged at Steyer, and the other brought from Vienna, weighing not less
+than nine hundred pounds, and secured them with eight anchors, and a
+guard of armed boats. During the insurrections in 1626 also, the same
+measures were taken by the peasants, who ill treated the Countess of
+Springenstein, and made her a prisoner in her own castle. Neuhaus is at
+present, I believe, the property of the Prince of Thurm and Taxis.</p>
+
+<p>It is only on arriving at the very foot of the rocky wall,
+which forms an impenetrable barrier to the further progress of the
+Danube northward, that you perceive the outlet from this valley of
+precipices. A beautiful lake opens to the right near the point where
+the Grosse Michl disembogues itself from a woody ravine; and the
+mountain chain gradually sinking on each side, the river widens and
+widens till the passenger would almost fancy it had completed its
+seaward course, and that he was entering upon the broad and fathomless
+ocean. From the time we had entered the gorge at Hayenbach to the
+period of our passing Neuhaus, a passage of at least two hours, <span
+class="pagenum">112</span> we had never caught even a momentary glimpse
+of the sun. He now burst upon us in all the glory of his setting, and
+we seemed absolutely to breathe more freely as we emerged from between
+the stupendous galleries of granite and pine, which had imprisoned us
+nearly all the way from Passau. The mists of evening were fast settling
+upon bank and stream, as the lights of Aschach began to twinkle in the
+distance; and before we could reach the village on the opposite bank,
+where it was our steersman’s intention we should sleep, it was quite
+dark. On going ashore, we found the little inn, or rather public-house
+of the place, completely occupied by the passengers and crew of the
+regular boat, that left Ratisbon the morning before we did, and which
+our night’s voyage from Straubing to Vilshofen had enabled us to
+overtake. On crossing the threshold, however, of the dirty vault that
+“served it for parlour and kitchen and all,” we blessed our stars that
+there was no room for us; and feeling our way out again, for the clouds
+of smoke that rose around rendered it impossible for us to rely solely
+on our visual faculties, <span class="pagenum">113</span> we intimated
+our intention of crossing the river to Aschach, where indeed we ought
+to have been originally landed; but our pilot was either afraid
+of the sandbank in front of it after nightfall, or there was some
+understanding between him and the master of the public-house on the
+left bank, postillions and boatmen generally getting their own board
+and lodging gratis as a reward for bringing “grist to the mill,” enough
+being invariably ground out of the said grist to indemnify the miller
+for any liberality he may have been guilty of towards the bearer. A
+lad soon made his appearance with a small boat, into which we jumped
+with our portmanteaus, and were ferried over to the end of a jetty,
+that has been thrown out from the bank, in consequence of the sand
+deposited by the river, which has within the last few years receded
+considerably from the town. Here we found tolerable accommodation, and
+I lost no time in atoning to the drowsy god for the hours of which I
+had defrauded him, the previous night, upon the water.</p>
+
+<p>Aschach was a place of some importance, as early as the times of
+Charlemagne. <span class="pagenum">114</span> Thassilo, Duke of
+Bavaria, gave in the year 772, some vineyards at Aschach to the monks
+of Krems-Münster. In the eleventh century the knights of Aschach
+begin to be celebrated. The Counts of Schaumberg possessed it during
+the middle ages, from whom it passed to the Lords of Jörger. At
+present, as well as the lordship of Stauf, it belongs to the Counts
+of Harrach. The history of this little market-town, for nearly the
+two last centuries, is one uninterrupted series of misfortunes. In
+1626 it was not only taken and plundered by the revolted peasantry,
+but was for some time their head quarters. They endeavoured to chain
+up the Danube at this place, and obliged the town of Steyer, which
+they had taken at their first rising, to furnish them with a chain
+one hundred fathoms long, every link weighing twenty pounds. Besides
+this chain, they threw across three other, and a couple of stout
+ropes, trusting thereby to intercept the provisions and reinforcements
+for the relief of Herberstorf’s troops at Linz. But the Bavarian
+boats broke through this barrier, as they had already done through a
+similar one at <span class="pagenum">115</span> Engelhards-zell. In
+the second insurrection, in 1632, the rebels surprised and plundered
+Aschach again, and remained there till Colonel Traun burnt their
+camp at Landshaag and dispersed them. In the contest with Bavaria,
+in 1809, Aschach suffered considerably both from friend and foe; and
+the removal of the custom-house back to Engelhards-zell in 1819, from
+whence it had been brought at the commencement of the present century,
+was a severe blow to the trade, which had begun to recompense the
+inhabitants for their losses during the war. The extensive sandbank
+which is yearly increasing before it, is an additional obstacle to its
+commerce, and Schultes indulges in melancholy predictions respecting
+the ultimate fate of this unfortunate little town. The wine made in its
+neighbourhood, is remarkable only for its badness, and is the standing
+joke of the inhabitants themselves; we must suppose, therefore, that
+it has either sadly degenerated since Thassilo made the vineyards
+a present to his friends at Krems-Münster, or that the fraternity
+were in want of an immediate supply of vinegar. Aschach is the <span
+class="pagenum">116</span> most northerly point, on the Austrian
+Danube, where grapes are cultivated for that purpose. But there is
+another piece of information respecting this place, which is of more
+consequence than any I have yet mentioned, to the modern traveller. The
+paper money (papier-geld) of Austria here first comes into play, and
+the unapprised foreigner is astonished at being apparently charged for
+his bed, supper, breakfast, or what not, about four times as much as he
+has been in the habit of paying since he entered the country of florins
+and kreutzers.</p>
+
+<p>The gold ducat also, which has passed throughout Bavaria for 4
+<i>fl.</i> 54 <i>k.</i>, and even 5 <i>fl.</i> in some places, here
+falls to its regular value of 4-1/2 florins only; and this sudden
+change is exceedingly perplexing to the stranger who has but just
+become acquainted with the Bavarian standard, in time to find it of no
+use to him.<a id="FNank_34" href="#FN_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> </p>
+
+<p> <span class="pagenum">117</span> At day-break, after a hasty
+cup of coffee, we re-trod the jetty, and found the boat waiting to
+take us over to our weitz-zille, which lay moored besides the smoky
+wirtshaus before mentioned. We were soon aboard and afloat again,
+and gliding by the mouth of the little river Aschach that joins the
+Danube close below the town. By its side, on a small hill, stand the
+scarcely visible remains of the castle of Stauf, once the property,
+as indeed was, at that time, the whole surrounding country, of the
+mighty Counts of Schaumberg, who have been already so often mentioned;
+and, as the sun rose, his earliest beams fell upon the splendid
+ruins of the cradle of that great and ancient family—the once strong
+and beautiful castle of Schaumberg—still beautiful in decay,—on a
+gentle acclivity, and backed by the finely wooded mountains, on
+whose precipitous sides we <span class="pagenum">118</span> had
+the previous day gazed so long with mingled awe and admiration. Nor
+were its picturesque white towers the only objects of attraction in
+the magnificent scene which gradually expanded upon our sight, as
+the morning mist rose like a curtain from before it. The broad river
+lay gleaming like a sheet of burnished gold beneath us; before us a
+number of richly wooded islands divided the glittering stream into
+twenty different channels to the right and left. Looking westward,
+the mountains of Bavaria and Bohemia stretched out their giant arms,
+as in despair at the escape of the flood they had so long held in
+thrall. At the mouth of the defile from which we had issued, stood the
+little town of Aschach. Still more to the south, the ruined castles
+of Stauf and Schaumberg, and, far away in the south-east, but clearly
+defined against the blue horizon, towered the Alps and Glaciers of
+the Steyer-Mark, their snowy and fantastic peaks alternately tinted
+with pink and purple, and gold, by the changeful glories of sunrise.
+It was, indeed, a most exquisite panorama, and fully justifies the
+heroics of Professor Schultes, <span class="pagenum">119</span>
+though, in his enthusiastic admiration of the Danube, he is unjust to
+the really beautiful Rhine. “An Englishman,” says he, “who had often
+made the voyage of the Danube, and also that of the Rhine, from Mainz
+to Utrecht, in search of the picturesque, showed me his journal of
+the Rhine voyage. It contained only two words, ‘Toujours perdrix<a
+id="FNank_35" href="#FN_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>.’” But to return
+to the Castle of Schaumberg. The picturesque ruins which formed so fine
+a feature in the prospect before us, were, as I have already said, the
+cradle and principal seat of the once terrible Counts of that name.
+In the twelfth century, their signatures appear to many deeds, spelt
+indifferently Schoumbergh, Schowenberch, and Schawenberch. As late
+as 1548, the Schaumbergs were free counts of the empire, and their
+names are entered in the Reichs-Matrikel, (the roll or register of the
+empire,) as bound to furnish six horse and twenty-six foot men <span
+class="pagenum">120</span> at arms,—a slender contingent for a family
+that could, by lifting a finger, have brought thousands into the field.
+Their domains extended from the Bavarian frontier, beyond Linz, and
+included the market towns and castles of Baierbach, Stauf, Aschach,
+Efferding, Neuhaus, Flayenbach, Ober and Unter Wesen, Fichtenstein,
+Weidenholz, Mistelbach, nearly the whole of the Donau-Thal, from
+Passau to Schaumberg, and farther inland, in the old Traun-gau, Kammer
+upon the Attersee, Frankenberg, Wildeneck, etc. etc. Wilhelm, son of
+Wernhard, Count of Julbach, a descendant of one of the thirty-two
+children of Babo of Abensberg, was the first lord of the castle who
+assumed the name of Schaumberg, A. D. 1161. His successor, forming
+alliances with the families of the Landgraves of Leuchtenberg, the
+Burggraves of Nürnberg, and the Dukes of Austria, became gradually
+more and more powerful, exacted heavy tolls on the Danube, at Neuhaus
+and Aschach, plundered travellers, took their less powerful neighbours
+prisoners, for the sake of extorting ransom, or compelling them to
+<span class="pagenum">121</span> join their league, and, in short,
+were worthy supporters of the famous “faust-recht” of Germany.<a
+id="FNank_36" href="#FN_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, a twinge of conscience made them endeavour to propitiate
+heaven, by letting its servants share a little in the plunder; and,
+with this view, they founded, in 1325, the Kloster of Saint Niklas by
+Passau, and, in 1323, the Convent at Baumgartenberg; and by degrees
+permitted the boats, etc. appertaining to most of the surrounding
+monasteries and convents, to pass Aschach toll free.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding their alliance by marriage, terrible feuds were
+continually springing up betwixt the Counts of Schaumberg and the Dukes
+of Austria; and the assistance which Henry of Schaumberg, in 1319, gave
+to Frederick the Handsome, against Louis the Bavarian, is almost a
+solitary instance of the families siding together in warfare. So much
+were their valour and influence dreaded by the principal potentates of
+Germany, that Albert II., Duke <span class="pagenum">122</span>
+of Austria, surnamed the Lame, and Louis the Bavarian, entered into a
+solemn contract at Passau in 1340, by which they bound themselves never
+to make offensive or defensive league with the Counts of Schaumberg.</p>
+
+<p>In 1366, Albert III.<a id="FNank_37" href="#FN_37"
+class="fnanchor">[37]</a>, having made war upon Henry Count of
+Schaumberg, the latter appealed to the Emperor Charles IV., who
+appointed the Burggraves of Nürnberg and Magdeburg umpires between the
+parties. The Burggraves decided in favour of Albert, and the Count
+of Schaumberg and his descendants were declared subjects of Austria,
+and the castles of Kammer, Neuhaus, and Fichtenstein forfeited to the
+duchy, besides the immense sum, for that period, of twelve thousand
+florins. Henry, enraged at this heavy sentence, took the first
+opportunity of renewing the war with Albert, who in 1379 in <span
+class="pagenum">123</span> person besieged the castle of Schaumberg;
+and the contest was carried on with great fury and bitterness, till
+Stephen, Duke of Bavaria, reconciled the parties and induced Count
+Henry to hold the castles of Neuhaus and Stauf, and the market town
+of Efferding, as fiefs of Austria. This peace, however, was, as might
+have been expected, of no long duration. The Counts again declared
+themselves independent, and the struggle continued with alternate
+success, till the church stept in out of pure charity, scandalized to
+see such a waste of treasure, and like the lawyer in the old story,
+settled the matter by swallowing the oyster and leaving the shells to
+the disputants. One by one the contested estates became the property
+of this and that kloster, till at length, in 1548, the family of
+Schaumberg became so straitened for means, that it could no longer
+defend the little that was left of its once immense dominions, and
+acknowledging the feudal sovereignty of Austria, became extinct in
+1559 by the death of Count Wolfgang.—The castle of Schaumberg at
+present belongs to the Prince of Starrhemberg, an ancestor of <span
+class="pagenum">124</span> whose family married one of the last
+female descendants of the line of Schaumberg. There is a tradition
+that the Danube originally ran beneath its walls, but there appears
+no foundation for such a belief. The chapel and two watch-towers are
+still tolerably perfect: on the walls of the former there are said to
+exist some paintings of the fourteenth century; I regret exceedingly
+that my ignorance of the fact, when I was in the vicinity, prevented my
+inspecting them. If they really be of the date assigned to them, and in
+tolerable preservation, they would be worth a pilgrimage.</p>
+
+<p>A stone pillar near a brook, in the valley before the castle,
+is said to record the fate of a Count of Schaumberg, who, though
+invincible in battle or tournament, could not resist the charms of a
+fair maiden, “armed at both eyes,” the daughter of a miller, in the
+valley of Aschach. One night as he was riding to a rendezvous, his
+horse started (as well he might) at the sudden appearance of a fiery
+dragon that rushed out of a thicket before him, became unmanageable,
+plunged at last with his master over a precipice into the swollen
+torrent <span class="pagenum">125</span> below; and the first object
+that met the unfortunate maiden’s sight when she opened her casement
+in the morning, was the floating corses of her noble lover and his
+favourite steed.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly facing Aschach, on the left bank, is the poor little
+market-town of Landshaag, formerly belonging to the convent of
+Niedernburg at Passau, but now, of course, to Austria. This little
+place suffered terribly during the insurrections of 1626 and 1632,
+from the rebels, who in the latter year had their camp in its
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>About half an hour’s walk to the eastward of this little town
+stands, on the top of one of the Klausberge, in a forest of
+fruit-trees, the ruin of Ober-Walsee. A castle was originally built
+here by the Schaumbergs, but it was most probably destroyed by the
+celebrated Ulrich of Walsee, governor of Styria, who suppressed
+the rebellion which had broken out in these districts during the
+absence of Frederick the handsome, Duke of Austria, in 1309, and
+repelled Otto Duke of Bavaria, who attempting to profit by the <span
+class="pagenum">126</span> intestine commotion, had invaded Frederick’s
+dominions; Ulrich, before Frederick could hasten to his assistance,
+had already subdued the refractory, and ravaged their property with
+fire and sword. In return for this and other services rendered to the
+Dukes of Austria by the family of Walsee, Rodolph IV. gave permission
+to Eberhard von Walsee, in 1364, to build a strong fortress on the
+Klausberge, a permission which, while it had the appearance of a
+favour conferred upon the Lords of Walsee, furthered the views of the
+Duke, inasmuch as it placed a strong curb upon the neighbouring Counts
+of Schaumberg, the implacable enemies of the House of Hapsburg. The
+descendants of Eberhard possessed this castle, which received the name
+of Ober-Walsee, till the extinction of the male branch in 1485, when
+the last female of the family, Barbara of Walsee, in obedience to that
+power</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Qui tient sous son empire<br>
+    &nbsp;Le genre humain les ânes et les Dieux,”
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>gave her hand to Count Siegmund of Schaumberg, one of the
+sworn foes of her own house as well as that of Austria, and <span
+class="pagenum">127</span> added both Ober and Nieder-Walsee, a castle
+lower down on the Danube, to the possessions of the Schaumbergs. In
+1559 the family of Schaumberg became also extinct; and Ober-Walsee,
+after passing through several hands, descended to the Princes of
+Staremberg, who were also Lords of the neighbouring castle and domain
+of Eschelberg.</p>
+
+<p>Respecting one Hans of Eschelberg, Schultes has a rigmarole story,
+which (unless he be jesting, and there is nothing to lead one to such
+a conclusion) proves him, however well acquainted with the history of
+his own country, unaccountably deficient in information regarding that
+of others. This said Hans, who commenced his military career under
+Louis the Bavarian, at the siege of Lindau, and received the honour
+of knighthood from that Emperor, for his valiant exploits therein,
+followed John, King of Bohemia, into Poland, and shared in the victory
+of that monarch at Cracow; not finding himself sufficiently recompensed
+for his services, accepted an invitation from Edward III. of England,
+who was then besieging Calais, and assisted him in the reduction
+<span class="pagenum">128</span> of that place. So far so good; but
+not contented with claiming these probable services for his hero, Herr
+Schultes, upon the strength of a fragment of an old ballad, quoted by
+Hoheneck, makes him the bearer of the English standard at the battle
+of Cressy, where, “mirabile dictu,” he took the French king prisoner
+with his own hand (at Cressy!), while his knightly companions slew
+John, King of Bohemia, and Peter, King of Navarre! At a feast given
+on the field, in honour of the victory, Edward III. paid Sir Hans of
+Eschelberg the distinguished compliment of seating him between himself
+and the captive king, presented him with one hundred marks of silver,
+etc. etc. He afterwards returned to Germany, beat the Bohemians,
+became the champion of dukes, princes, and bishops; flew back to his
+old friend Edward, when again investing Calais, who rewarded him with
+more money and honours; returned again to his native land, and, after
+thirty years of battle and victory in all parts of Europe, died captain
+of the lands upon the Ens. The Professor seems quite heart-broken
+that this doughty warrior has never <span class="pagenum">129</span>
+been mentioned by any historian, and perfectly unconscious of the way
+in which the author of the old ballad, with the license or ignorance
+of most of the romantic writers of the middle ages, has mixed up the
+two perfectly distinct battles of Cressy and Poictiers, confounding
+incidents, leaders, and periods, with the utmost sang froid and
+complacency.</p>
+
+<p>The banks of the Danube, from Aschach to Linz, witnessed the greater
+part of those bloody struggles between the two principal sects of a
+religion revealed for the beneficent purpose of promoting “peace on
+earth, good will towards men,” which convulsed the provinces of Upper
+Austria during the seventeenth century; and as the actors in them have
+already been mentioned more than once, and will be frequently named
+hereafter, I shall venture to give, in as few words as possible, a
+sketch of the insurrections of 1626 and 1632, particularly as they
+have been merely alluded to by Schiller, in his history of the thirty
+years’ war, and Coxe, in his history of the House of Austria, the
+two most elaborate works upon that period familiar to the English
+<span class="pagenum">130</span> reader,—the deeds of a Gustavus, a
+Wallenstein, and a Tilly, having naturally occupied their attention, to
+the exclusion of all less generally important circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>The object which Ferdinand II., Emperor of Germany, had most at
+heart, from worldly as well as spiritual motives, was the extirpation
+of the reformed religion. The battle of Prague had no sooner decided
+the fate of Bohemia, than he tore, with his own hand, the memorable
+letter of majesty extorted from Rudolph II. by the states of the
+kingdom, in favour of the Protestants, and burnt the seal; and
+proceeded not only to the revocation of the privileges granted to
+them by his predecessors, which he had <i>not</i> confirmed, but
+even of those which had received his own unqualified approbation. He
+intimated to all the Protestants in his dominions, that they must
+either abandon their religion or their native country,—a bitter and
+terrible choice, which excited the most violent commotions amongst his
+Austrian subjects, and particularly in the district above the Ens.
+Upper Austria had been, for some time, held in pledge by the Elector
+of Bavaria, for the indemnification <span class="pagenum">131</span>
+promised him by the Emperor for his assistance against the Evangelic
+Union; and Count Adam von Herberstorf, who commanded the Bavarian
+troops at Linz, had been guilty of unnecessary severities towards
+its unfortunate inhabitants. On the 17th of May, 1626, the flame,
+which had been long smothering, burst into a sudden and terrible
+blaze, in consequence of some excesses committed by a straggling
+party of Herberstorf’s soldiery. The Protestant peasantry flew to
+arms, and, in two days, took and plundered the towns of Aschach,
+Grieskirchen, and Baierbach, and the strong fortress of Velden. On
+the 20th of May, Herberstorf marched against the rebels at Baierbach,
+with twelve hundred men and some artillery, but was repulsed with
+great loss; and, after having two horses killed under him, retreated
+in confusion to Linz. The peasantry were now headed by one Stephen
+Fadinger, a hatter; and, in about ten days from their first rising,
+mustered full seventy thousand men, and possessed a park of thirty
+cannon. Within the first eight days, Fadinger had made himself master
+of Wels, Kremsmünster, Vöglabruch, <span class="pagenum">132</span>
+and Gmünden, and in six more, with the exceptions of Freystadt, Ens,
+and Linz, the whole of Upper Austria was overrun, and subdued by the
+insurgents. Flushed with victory, Fadinger invested Linz on the 25th
+of June, and would most probably have succeeded in reducing it, had he
+not received a shot in the thigh from one of Herberstorf’s musqueteers,
+in violation of a short armistice agreed upon between the leaders,
+June 28th, of which wound he died in the beginning of the following
+month<a id="FNank_38" href="#FN_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>. His
+successor, Achaz Willinger von Katterhof, a nobleman, had neither his
+talent nor his good fortune. Steyer and Freystadt, which had fallen
+just before Fadinger’s death, were retaken, fifteen hundred soldiers
+dispersed twelve thousand peasants, in the neighbourhood of Ens;
+and, in two assaults upon Linz, the Protestants were repulsed with
+terrible slaughter. The Austrian commissioner had nearly succeeded in
+his charitable endeavours to restore peace, when some fresh cruelty
+of <span class="pagenum">133</span> Herberstorf’s, or the soldiers
+under his command, kindled anew the torch of discord, and, by another
+change of fortune, the peasantry cut to pieces the troops of the Duke
+of Holstein-Gotton, at Wesen-Urfar, and successively defeated the
+Bavarian general Lindlo, at Geyersberg, Count Preuner, at Haslach,
+Herberstorf, near Gmünden, and even the valiant Löbel, at Wels. The
+celebrated Pappenheim, however, whose mother Count Herberstorf had
+married, retrieved the fortunes of his party, by beating the rebels
+in three following battles at Efferding, Gmünden, and Vöglabruch,
+but not without considerable difficulty, as he himself acknowledges
+in a letter to Herberstorf. “It was,” he writes, “as if my cavalry
+had to combat the massive rocks; for these peasants fought not like
+men, but like infernal furies!” These reverses decided the fate
+of the insurgents; and, though the Imperial commissioner himself
+declared that the peasantry had not risen with treasonable intentions
+against the Emperor, but were goaded into the act by the severity of
+Herberstorf, nearly the whole of the prisoners were hung and <span
+class="pagenum">134</span> quartered, or impaled. Achaz Willinger,
+as he was a nobleman, was beheaded, and his body delivered to the
+Jesuits, who had not been the least important actors in this terrible
+tragedy.</p>
+
+<p>Six years had not elapsed before the continued persecution they
+experienced, stirred up the Protestants again to resistance. In 1632
+a second rising of the peasantry on the Ens was accompanied by the
+same slaughter, and the same devastation; and in these two contests
+alone, which are but trifling episodes in the sanguinary history of the
+thirty years war, upwards of fifty thousand subjects of Austria, upon a
+moderate calculation, were sacrificed to the childish superstition and
+inveterate bigotry of its ruler. “The victory of the White Mountain,”
+says Schiller, “put Ferdinand in possession of all his dominions. He
+even received them with greater powers than his predecessors; since
+their allegiance had been unconditionally pledged to him, and no
+letter of majesty now existed to limit his sovereign authority. The
+war was ended, if justice was his object; and if magnanimity was to
+be united with justice, <span class="pagenum">135</span> so was the
+punishment. The fate of Germany was in his hands; the happiness and
+misery of millions were dependent on his resolution. Never was a more
+important trust placed in a single hand; never was the blindness of
+one individual productive of more fatal consequences.” The barbarities
+committed on both sides, during these conflicts, were horrible beyond
+description. The peasantry had treasured up the recollection of the
+cruelties they had suffered at the hands of Herberstorf and his
+soldiery, and now repaid them with dreadful interest. Once goaded
+over the line of legal authority, their ferocity knew no bounds: nor
+did they glut their lust of vengeance upon the soldiery only; those
+of their own class and sect who did not immediately gather round
+the standard of insurrection, were mutilated or slaughtered without
+compunction. On the other hand the prisoners taken by the Catholic
+party, were tortured and executed with a horrid ingenuity, that might
+have edified a Sioux Indian, or a Spanish inquisitor. Ferdinand
+would only remember that the inhabitants of Upper Austria had risen
+seven times in thirty-seven <span class="pagenum">136</span> years,
+and would make no allowances for the provocations which had driven
+a naturally loyal people to desperation. He had been told by his
+jesuits, that Protestantism and rebellion were synonymous terms, and
+to Ferdinand II. “the voice of a monk was the voice of God.” “Nothing
+on earth,” writes his own confessor, “was more sacred in his eyes than
+the priesthood. If it could happen, he used to say, that an angel and
+a clergyman were to meet him at the same time and place, the clergyman
+should receive his first, and the angel his second obeisance<a
+id="FNank_39" href="#FN_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a>.” Gracious God!
+for what wise purposes are men permitted to make Thy holy name a signal
+for butchery, to turn the manna of Thy word into poison, and sow with
+the brier and the thorn Thy “ways of pleasantness and Thy paths of
+peace.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   V. -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">137</span>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Efferding. — Ottensheim. — Kloster-Willering. — Linz. — The Platz.
+— The Landstrasse. — The Schlossberg. — The Landhaus. — The Theatre. —
+The Bridge. — The Pöstlingberg. — View on leaving Linz. — Steyereck. —
+The River Traun. — Ebelsberg. — Luftenberg. — Monastery of St. Florian.
+— Tillysburg. — Spielberg. — Mauthausen. — Ens. — Origin and History of
+the City. — Antiquities discovered in its neighbourhood.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>From Aschach to Ottensheim is one labyrinth of islands, through
+which few boats venture without a pilot, as the current of the river
+is continually changing its course, and the deep channel or ditch
+(<i>Graben</i>) as the boatmen here call it, through which they have
+safely steered a few days before, may upon their second visit be
+transformed into a sandbank, or blocked up with trunks and branches
+of trees, washed into it by the floods that so frequently occur in
+this part of the country. While passing through this archipelago,
+the banks of the river are seldom visible, but fortunately there is
+nothing upon them to make that circumstance a matter of regret. The
+whole country between Aschach and Willering is said to have <span
+class="pagenum">138</span> been formerly the basin of one vast lake,
+cradled amongst the mountains of Bohemia, Moravia, and Upper Austria,
+and the name of Ilmersee, which appears in the thirteenth century,
+is quoted in confirmation of the tradition. The White Tower of
+Hartkirchen is shortly seen on the right bank. The Catholic minister
+of this church, and his cook-maid, were cruelly murdered here, by
+the revolted peasantry in 1626. Pupping, celebrated for a dead
+saint, and Bergheim for a beautiful brewer<i>ess</i><a id="FNank_40"
+href="#FN_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>, whose strong beer and bright
+eyes distracted the heads and the hearts of her customers, and might
+have sorely tempted the holy St. Otmar himself, had the good man been
+living at the time.—Waschpoint, Wörth, and two or three other small
+villages on the same bank all passed, were ached Efferding, one of
+the oldest places on the Danube. The beautiful Chrimhilt, the heroine
+of the Nibelungen-lied, is said, in that poem, to have rested here
+upon her journey into Hungary. One of the Schaumbergs bought <span
+class="pagenum">139</span> the little town from the Bishop of Passau in
+1367, for four thousand florins; and at the extinction of that family,
+it came to the Starrhembergs, who built a castle here, still called the
+Burg. A rich and valiant family, of the name of Schifer, founded and
+liberally endowed an hospital here, as early as 1325, and expressly
+commanded that, when there was not a sufficient number of sick and poor
+in the town of Efferding to fill the hospital, the governor should send
+out “into the highways and hedges, and compel them to come in.”</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of September, 1632, the combined peasantry burned the
+suburbs, and, on the 25th, defeated the nephew and namesake of the
+great and merciless Tilly, but, shortly afterwards, were themselves
+defeated by the Imperial troops with great slaughter. Upwards of three
+thousand of the unfortunate men, who fell at various periods in this
+neighbourhood, lie buried here, as did also their leader, Fadinger,
+till Herberstorf had the body disinterred, and carried to Seebach,
+where it was flung into a hole beneath the gibbet. The historian Kurz
+has preserved the receipt for the
+<span class="pagenum">140</span>
+
+money paid to the ministers of this paltry vengeance. The Bavarians
+plundered Efferding in 1704 and 1742, and it suffered considerably
+during the last war, from the continual fighting in its neighbourhood.
+A dozen small villages are scattered on each bank, between Efferding
+and Ottensheim; and the Ihn, the Bösenbach, and the Rodel, wind amongst
+them to the Danube. At one of these little places, named Hartheim,
+dwelt in 1620 a lady of the family of Aspan, the fame of whose wealth,
+according to Hoheneck, determined a Prince of Saxony to make a personal
+proposal of marriage. Travelling incognito with only two attendants,
+he fell, near Efferding, into the hands of the rebel peasantry, who,
+taking the unfortunate suitor for a spy, put him and his domestics
+instantly to the sword. At length, we approached the square white
+tower, which had been for some time gleaming above the intervening
+islands; and as we issued from amongst them, the little market town of
+Ottensheim, with its chateau and church, all grouped as with an eye to
+effect, upon a gentle eminence projecting into the Danube, gradually
+<span class="pagenum">141</span>
+ glided into view. On a house in the
+market-place, is the figure of a child in a cradle, surmounted by a
+canopy, and underneath it are the following lines:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Im 1208 Jahr.<br>
+    Da Ottensheim noch nicht genannt war,<br>
+    Ist Kaiser Otto Auserkohren<br>
+    Alhier in diesen Haus geboren.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>What <i>Emperor</i> Otto, the worthy composer of this distich
+intended us to believe was born here in 1208, I cannot pretend to
+determine, as the fourth and last emperor of that name was elected as
+early as 1197; and that the place was not called Ottensheim before that
+period, appears to be another equally unfortunate assertion.</p>
+
+<p>Leopold II., Duke of Austria, who died in 1194, sold Wechsenberg,
+<i>Ottensheim</i>, Grein, and Hartenstein, to Otto von Schleung, “mit
+leuth und gut,” (with people and property,) for six hundred pounds
+of silver. In the fourteenth century, Heinrich von Neuhaus, Peter
+von Sternberg, and Ulrich von Landstein, laid waste this part of the
+country to the walls of Ottensheim, and began a feud, which desolated
+Upper Austria for upwards of one hundred years. In 1626, a body of the
+insurgents, under a leader
+<span class="pagenum">142</span>
+ named
+Christoph Zeller, established their head-quarters at Ottensheim;
+and the French plundered the town, both in their disastrous retreat
+in 1742, and their victorious march to Vienna in 1809. Ottensheim,
+however, has recovered from its many disasters, and drives a tolerably
+brisk trade in linen, wood and fruit, pit-coal and alum. Between
+Ottensheim and Kloster-Willering, which faces it, there is another
+rapid race of the river, that forms quite a little sea of billows.
+Kloster-Willering lies at the foot of the fir-crowned Kirnberg,
+which, rising on the right bank, extends its forest-covered masses
+as far as Linz. The Kloster was originally the castle of the Knights
+of Willering, descended from the old Counts of Kirnberg. Cholo and
+Ulrich of Willering, Barons of Weremberg, established some Cistertian
+monks here in 1146. Ulrich went to Palestine, from whence he never
+returned. With him his family became extinct, and the whole of his
+great possessions fell to the fortunate monks of Willering. They
+soon wheedled themselves into the confidence and favour of all the
+noblest and richest families of Upper Austria, many of the heads of
+which
+<span class="pagenum">143</span>
+ joined their fraternity.
+The Archdukes of Austria themselves highly patronized this Kloster,
+and freed it from all tolls and taxes; and it shortly became so
+powerful, that it assumed a species of jurisdiction over all the other
+establishments of its order, upon the banks of the Danube, as far as
+Engelhardszell. One of its abbots, in 1544, played it a scurvy trick.
+He was a Nürnberger by birth, and named Erasmus Villicus. Scarcely had
+he been raised to this enviable dignity, when he took unto himself a
+wife, and one fine night disappeared with the lady, and all the jewels
+of the Kloster! From that period, a chain of misfortunes seems to have
+attended it. It was twice or thrice plundered during the insurrections;
+nearly burned to the ground in 1733; suffered in an action between the
+French and Austrians, in 1742; and by an inundation in 1787, when the
+Danube overflowed its banks to the height of full seven fathoms.</p>
+
+<p>After washing the walls of Kloster Willering, the Danube enters
+another beautiful valley, skirted on one side by the dark forests of
+the Kirnberg, and on the
+<span class="pagenum">144</span>
+ other by
+groves of a lighter green, interspersed with cottages and gardens, over
+which, in the distance, rise the spires of Pöstlingberg, announcing
+to the traveller the vicinity of Linz. On the brink of each bank runs
+a carriage-road, the one on the right being the high post-road to
+Regensburg and Nürnberg, and that on the left leading to Ottensheim,
+Grammetstetten, and Landshag. This beautiful valley is the favourite
+promenade of the Linzers, who flock on a fine summer afternoon through
+the woods on the right bank, to a hunting lodge in the Kirnbergerwald,
+near which stand the ruins of Helfenberg, the cradle of the old Counts
+of Kirnberg; and in the winter go in sledges to Willering, and the
+neighbouring places, to drink wine, beer, and coffee, smoke, knit, and
+hear music.</p>
+
+<p>Having rounded the point of land overlooked by the lofty
+Pöstlingberg,—the city of Linz,—the capital of Upper Austria,—with
+its long wooden bridge, gradually makes its appearance. Beneath the
+rocks on the right bank, stands a long line of houses and chapels,
+some romantically situated in little clefts of the rocks, and <span
+class="pagenum">145</span> surrounded by firs and pines. This place
+is called the Calvarienberg (Mount Calvary), and is the scene of
+numberless processions and religious ceremonies of the Catholic
+inhabitants of Linz.</p>
+
+<p>Linz is a handsome, clean, and cheerful looking city, and the
+inhabitants may be said to partake the good qualities of their
+town. The Linzer women are famed for beauty, if we may believe
+the guide-books, and who would dare to doubt them upon such a
+subject?—honestly, however, I cannot say I remarked any extraordinary
+difference between the lasses of Linz, and their Bavarian neighbours.
+The young females of the lower and middling classes, throughout the
+south of Germany, are in general plump, good-humoured looking girls,
+with florid complexions, large laughing blue eyes, snub noses, and
+light hair. Amongst the nobility and gentry, indeed, are some of the
+loveliest creatures I ever saw, and more resembling our own sweet
+countrywomen than the females of any other nation in Europe. But, as
+honest Cowley says:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    —“Beauty, thou wild fantastic ape,<br>
+    Who dost in every country change thy shape:<br>
+    Here black, there brown, here tawny, and there white,<br>
+    Thou flatterer, who comply’st with every sight:<br>
+    —Who hast no certain what nor where;<br>
+    But vary’st still, and dost thyself declare<br>
+    Inconstant as thy she-professors are!—”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Who shall define thee?—</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the men a very visible alteration in person had taken place,
+even before we arrived at Linz. There appeared to me considerably
+more of the Greek and Italian than the German cast of feature in the
+Austrian countenance. Long aquiline noses, dark eyes and swarthy
+complexions were new objects to me in German faces. Civility, kindness,
+and good humour, however, reigned in the hearts and manners of both
+sexes; and after the gloomy pictures I have seen so frequently drawn
+in England, of the degraded and miserable condition of the people of
+Austria, it was curious enough to mark the content and gaiety that,
+at least, appeared to pervade every class of his Imperial Majesty’s
+subjects. Having tasted nothing since our single cup of coffee at
+Aschach, we hastened to the Golden Lion, the best inn we saw upon the
+Platz, and made a capital breakfast, in an apartment on the first
+floor, fitted up precisely
+<span class="pagenum">147</span>
+ like an
+English coffee-room, the windows commanding a good view of the Platz,
+which (it being a market morning) presented a lively and interesting
+appearance. It is a fine, spacious, oblong square, between eight and
+nine hundred feet in length, and upwards of three hundred broad<a
+id="FNank_41" href="#FN_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>, surrounded on
+three sides by handsome houses built of freestone, (some of these five
+stories high,) and ornamented with a twisted column, surmounted by a
+gilt glory, erected by the Emperor Charles VI., in 1713, in memory
+of a great plague. South of this column, the square was filled with
+market-people and purchasers. The ground was covered with their large
+flat baskets, containing all kinds of provisions. By the side of each
+stood the vendor, in his or her provincial costume; and amongst the
+motley crowd moved the mistresses and maidens of Linz, the former
+dressed “à la Française,” with the exception of short sleeves, and
+long gloves tied above the
+<span class="pagenum">148</span>
+ elbow, a
+fashion peculiar to Germany; and the latter in their little jackets,
+coloured petticoats, and splendid caps of gold brocade, entitled
+“Linzer hauben,” modelled, one would suppose, from the gorgeous crest
+of a Chinese or golden pheasant. Exactly facing our windows was a
+large house, where, over the <i>porte cochère</i>, the Austrian
+Eagle (that “rara avis in terris, nigroque simillima <i>cygno</i>”
+<i>with two necks</i>) sprawled upon a yellow board, all legs and
+wings, like a bird of prey on a barn door, and under it paraded a
+tall mustachoed Austrian grenadier sentinel, in white and black
+uniform, black gaiters, and portentous bear-skin cap, while half a
+dozen soldiers of other regiments lounged about the gateway of the
+Kaiserlich,—Königlich,—something or other, that I could not exactly
+make out, and added considerably to the picturesque effect of the whole
+scene.</p>
+
+<p>Breakfast over, we repaired to the <i>polizey</i>, to reclaim
+our passports, exchanged on landing for a printed paper containing,
+in German, French, and Italian, an injunction, under certain pains
+and penalties, to present yourself to the police, within <span
+class="pagenum">149</span> twenty-four hours after your arrival; those
+secured, we rambled over the town, which has nothing particularly
+worth notice in the way of buildings. There is a tolerably handsome
+church near the post-office, and polizey-direction; in a long airy
+street, (the landstrasse) that runs right out into the country; for,
+unlike continental towns in general, Linz has no gloomy gateways or
+frowning barriers; a light turnpike a little way out of the town on the
+high-road, painted, as they all are in Germany, with the colours of the
+empire or kingdom, and resembling, exceedingly, the now nearly exploded
+barber’s pole, alone indicates the spot where the land-traveller
+must exhibit his passport and pay the little weg-geld or road-toll,
+to an officer stationed for that purpose at a neighbouring cottage.
+A little arch, under which you pass into the Platz from the bank of
+the Danube, is dignified by the name of the Wasser-thor; and you are
+directed to the Haupt-thor, the Schmidt-thor, and the Land-haus-thor,
+as you might in London be directed to Ludgate, or to Holborn-bars,
+but the Thor itself has long vanished. Riesbeck, who travelled <span
+class="pagenum">150</span> through Germany in 1780, speaking of Linz,
+says, “the city is open on all sides, and the town and country seem
+so united, that if my spirit of knight errantry would allow it, I
+would pitch my tent, and lay my travelling staff up, here;” and gives
+honourable testimony to “the industry, happiness, and prosperity of
+the eleven thousand inhabitants who dwell in it.” If the late wars
+have occasioned any decrease of its prosperity, they have either not
+had that effect upon its population, or the inhabitants have been
+singularly fortunate in repairing damages, since the peace. Their
+number is now, by two different accounts, estimated at sixteen, and
+twenty thousand. From the Schlossberg, on the west of the city, you
+have a fine view over the Danube and the surrounding country. Upon
+this rock anciently stood the citadel of Linz, in which Richard
+Cœur de Lion, it is said, was feasted as he returned from his long
+Austrian captivity. The Archduke frequently resided here, and Rodolph
+II. considerably enlarged it. The Emperor Ferdinand I. still further
+enlarged and beautified it. It was afterwards converted into barracks,
+<span class="pagenum">151</span>
+ and, finally, into an hospital,
+which was burned down in 1800. Upon its site a commodious workhouse
+has been erected; and the poor now eat their crumbs upon the spot
+where formerly stood “the rich man’s table.” There are many charitable
+establishments<a id="FNank_42" href="#FN_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>
+and public schools in Linz, as well for Catholics as Protestants, and
+some considerable manufactories, one of which (the Imperial and Royal
+Woollen Cloth Manufactory) is a little town in itself.</p>
+
+<p>The Landhaus, the Guildhall of Linz, (or rather, the Government
+House of Upper Austria, where the president and eight counsellors
+appointed for the administration of justice in the country above the
+Ens, hold their sessions,) stands on the promenade, and was originally
+a Franciscan convent, built, in 1287, by Eberhard von Walsee. From a
+window of this building, the
+<span class="pagenum">152</span>
+ shot was
+fired that mortally wounded the rebel captain, Stephen Fadinger. Near
+the Landhaus is the new theatre. The old one was destroyed by the fire
+in 1800, which reduced to ashes the greater part of this quarter of the
+town. The erection of the present building cost ninety-six thousand
+florins. Under the same roof, is the Redouten-Saal, or Assembly Room
+for masquerades, balls, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The old chroniclers are not agreed as to the origin and foundation
+of Linz. Lazius would trace it to the Roman <i>Lentium</i>, or
+<i>Lentia</i>, destroyed by the Huns. Bruschius, in his rhyming
+panegyric, says,</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Hanc quis condidit primus, quo tempore et anno,<br>
+    Nominis aut hujus quæ sit origo vetus;<br>
+    Vix poterit dici: siquidem Germania fustos<br>
+    Non tantâ scripsit religione suos,<br>
+    Quanta vel Græci fecerunt laude, vel ipsi<br>
+    Ausonii proceres Romuleique patres.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Under Louis the Child, Linz was known as a toll-place on the Danube,
+and the seat of the Counts of Kirnberg. The last of this family sold,
+according to Lazius, the whole of his dominions to the Markgraves
+of Austria. When the Emperor Frederick II., “the pupil, the enemy,
+and the victim of the
+<span class="pagenum">153</span>
+ church,” was
+excommunicated by Pope Gregory IX. the second time, in 1236, Linz was
+besieged by the powers of the King of Bohemia, the Duke of Bavaria,
+the Patriarch of Aquileia, and the Bishops of Bamberg, Freysingen, and
+Passau. Frederick, however, assisted only by Albert, Count of Pogen,
+relieved the good city, and took one of the church militant, the
+Bishop of Passau, prisoner. During the reign of Rodolph of Hapsburg,
+Linz was plundered by Henry, Duke of Bavaria; and, in 1335, the
+Emperor Louis the Bavarian here invested the Dukes of Austria with
+Carinthia and the Tyrol, and entered into an offensive and defensive
+alliance, to secure the succession of those countries against the
+pretensions of the King of Bohemia and his heirs<a id="FNank_43"
+href="#FN_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>. In 1481, the whole city was
+destroyed by fire, with the exception of the castle and one street.
+The Emperor Frederick III. caused it to be rebuilt and considerably
+enlarged, and declared it, in 1490, the capital of Upper <span
+class="pagenum">154</span> Austria. He bought the village of Urfar,
+till then only inhabited by fishermen, and, flinging a wooden bridge
+over the Danube to it from Linz, it, in a short time, became a kind of
+suburb to the city. On the 19th of August, 1493, Linz lost its imperial
+benefactor. Frederick died in this city, of which he may almost be
+called the founder, at the advanced age of seventy-eight, and after a
+reign of fifty-three years, the longest of any emperor since the days
+of Augustus. He had been afflicted with a cancerous ulcer in his leg.
+As the only means of relief, he submitted to amputation; but, from the
+unskilfulness of the surgeon, and the vitiated state of his blood, a
+second amputation was necessary. He bore these painful operations with
+extreme fortitude, and gave a singular proof of his characteristic
+phlegm. Taking the severed limb in his hand, he said to those who were
+present, “What difference is there between an emperor and a peasant? or
+rather, is not a sound peasant better than a sick emperor? Yet I hope
+to enjoy the greatest good which can happen to man: a happy exit from
+this transitory life.” He seemed
+<span class="pagenum">155</span>
+ to
+be in a fair state of recovery, but his rigid observation of a fast,
+during which, in opposition to his medical attendants, he would take
+nothing but melons and water, brought on a dysentery, which, in his
+debilitated condition, became fatal. I agree with Schultes in thinking
+that an equestrian statue of this benefactor of Linz would be a more
+handsome and appropriate ornament for its principal square, than the
+column before mentioned. In 1521-2, the Archduke Ferdinand, afterwards
+emperor and founder of the German branch of the House of Austria,
+solemnized, at Linz, his nuptials with Anne, Princess of Hungary
+and Bohemia. Thrice, during the remainder of that century, was Linz
+visited with the awful scourge of pestilence. In 1620, the whole of
+Upper Austria was pledged to Bavaria; and, during the insurrections as
+already related, Linz was invested by the peasants under Fadinger, and
+its suburbs were reduced to ashes. Keppler, the famous astronomer, who
+at that time resided in them, lost some valuable MSS. in the flames.
+Linz was thrice stormed during those disturbances. In 1741, Linz was
+<span class="pagenum">156</span>
+ taken possession of by the allied
+French and Bavarian army, under Marshal Bellisle and the Elector, and
+in the three unsuccessful struggles of Austria against Napoleon in
+1800, 1805, and 1809, it suffered, in common with other towns upon the
+Danube, the various <i>mis</i>fortunes of war.</p>
+
+<p>The wooden bridge across the Danube, I have already said, was
+first built in 1490, but there is mention made of a bridge as early
+as 1106. It is conjectured, however, that it must have been a bridge
+of boats only, as the first regular bridge across to Urfar was
+certainly that thrown over by Ferdinand<a id="FNank_44" href="#FN_44"
+class="fnanchor">[44]</a>. A stroll across this bridge, which is
+upwards of one thousand feet in length, through the little town of
+Urfar, (for though it merely looks like the suburb of Linz, it has
+risen to the dignity of a <i>markt</i><a id="FNank_45" href="#FN_45"
+class="fnanchor">[45]</a>,) and up the steep Pöstlingberg, to the
+church and observatory on its summit, would, no doubt, repay any one
+for the
+<span class="pagenum">157</span>
+ trouble if he could afford
+the time, as far as an extensive and beautiful view goes; but, as my
+object was to travel through Austria, and not merely look over it,
+as a certain respectable personage is said “to look over Lincoln,”
+nothing but a view being to be gained by it, I declined the invitation;
+and having revictualled our bark, for we always dined on board, about
+twelve o’clock, we</p>
+
+<p class="center">“All got under weigh,<br> And bude a long
+adieu to”— </p>
+
+<p>the capital of Upper Austria.</p>
+
+<p>The retrospective view, after we had left Linz about a quarter of
+a mile behind us, was exceedingly beautiful, as beautiful, perhaps,
+as the view on leaving Passau, but of quite a different character.
+The city lay on our left, the beach before it crowded with people,
+and piled with merchandise,—a regiment of infantry marching out of
+the Wasser-thor, drums beating and colours flying; the bridge, alive
+with passengers, stretched across the gulf, from whence the Danube
+rushed panting out, and then spread itself, right and left, like a
+calm bright lake before us. In front, gradually rising from <span
+class="pagenum">158</span> the water’s edge, and spotted with the white
+straggling buildings of the little town of Urfar, towered the majestic
+Pöstlingberg, cultivated to its summit, and crowned by its church and
+observatory. More to the right arose the Pfenningberg, equally lofty,
+and similarly chequered with corn and meadow land. Between them, lay
+a soft green valley, in the bosom of which nestled the old village
+of Magdalena, the spire of its ancient church just peeping above the
+trees. A cloudless deep blue sky formed the back ground of this rich
+and laughing picture, that gladdened the heart, and filled it “almost
+to overflowing” with love and gratitude to that ineffable spirit, the
+Great Architect and</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    <span class="indent2">“Author of this Universe,</span><br>
+    And all this good to man! For whose well-being,<br>
+    So amply, and with hands so liberal,<br>
+    He hath provided all things.”<br>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Looking forward on our course, a crowd of little villages appeared
+on the left bank of the river, which again meandered amongst woody
+islands, and received, just below a small hamlet called Furth, the tiny
+stream of the Kitzelbach. Farther on,
+<span class="pagenum">159</span>
+
+upon the same bank, rose the half burned chateau of Steyereck, upon
+a small hill, in front of the forest-covered mountains which again
+line that side of the river. The little market-town of Steyereck is
+hidden behind the poplars of an island close to the shore. Steyereck
+was formerly a place of some commercial importance<a id="FNank_46"
+href="#FN_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>, but the Danube has receded of
+late years considerably from its walls; and the large sand-banks it
+has left behind it, prevents the lading or unlading of vessels, which
+now seek some more fortunate town. A little trouble and expense would,
+it appears, remove the sand, and restore the Danube to its original
+channel, thereby not only greatly benefiting Steyereck, but all the
+surrounding country, which is now, from the new course of the river,
+subjected to continual inundations, disasters that this work would
+greatly diminish in number, if not entirely prevent. No measures have
+as yet, however, been taken to effect this desirable purpose. The
+worthy Austrian would be considerably
+<span class="pagenum">160</span>
+
+improved, could a little of the persevering industry of the Hollander
+be infused into his composition. Steyereck belonged originally to the
+monks of Kremsmünster, but, as early as 1136, it had fallen into the
+power of a family named Khuenringe, who lorded it over the greater part
+of the Nordwaldes. Albert, of Khuenringe, sold the Castle of Steyereck,
+in 1280, to Ulrich von Kapell, surnamed “The Long,” who, in the famous
+battle of Marchfield, between the Emperor Rudolph I. and Ottocar, King
+of Bohemia, rescued the valiant founder of the House of Hapsburg from a
+gigantic Thuringian knight, named Valens, who had unhorsed and wounded
+him, and, by his courage and exertions, decided the fortune of the
+day.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Terra Rudolphus hostium cinctus globo<br>
+    Multorum, et unus jam pedes vim sustinet.<br>
+    Ulricus alis advolans Capellides,<br>
+    Ceu sæva raptis ursa pro catulis nova<br>
+    Irrumpit acie, ferro iter per inimicos secat,<br>
+    Alio reservat Cæsarem statuens equo, etc.”<br>
+    <span class="smcap right">Calaminus in Rudolpho Ottocaro.</span>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It remained in the family of the Kapellers till the extinction
+of the male branch in 1409, when the last daughter of that <span
+class="pagenum">161</span> house married Heinrich von Lichtenstein. In
+1569, one of the Lichtensteins sold Steyereck to Christopher Jörger,
+of Tolleth; and, in 1635, the town and castle were given as a dower
+with Elizabeth Jörger, to David Ungnad, Count of Weissenwolf, who built
+the present chateau. In 1770, the lightning fired the building, and a
+valuable library and collection of pictures were utterly consumed.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly facing Steyereck, is the mouth of the green and beautiful
+river Traun, which, rising out of the Grundel-See in the romantic
+Steyermark, flows through the lakes of Hallstädter and Gmünden, and
+swelled by the Ager, the Alben, and the Krems, hurries, foaming under
+the bridge of Ebelsberg, into the Danube. Ebelsberg, or Ebersberg,
+which lies on the right bank of the Traun, and is visible from the
+Danube, is a place of great antiquity<a id="FNank_47" href="#FN_47"
+class="fnanchor">[47]</a>, and the scene of a desperate battle between
+the
+<span class="pagenum">162</span>
+ French and the Austrians, fought
+on the 3d of May, 1809. General Claparede’s division stormed Ebelsberg
+from the bridge across the Traun, under a tremendous fire of artillery
+directed against the bridge, by the Austrian Field-Marshal Hiller.
+Claparede succeeded in carrying the place, but with dreadful slaughter.
+Another column of French, who had passed the river higher up, upon
+entering the town, revenged the death of their comrades most fearfully
+upon the Viennese volunteers who had so bravely defended it, three
+hundred of whom were burned alive in the castle, the town having taken
+fire during the assault, and the rest cut to pieces, From twelve to
+sixteen thousand men fell in this terrible conflict; and the banks of
+the Traun, from Ebelsberg to the Danube, were literally covered with
+slain<a id="FNank_48" href="#FN_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum">163</span>
+The Emperor Arnulph gave Ebelsberg,
+then called Eporesburg, to the monks of Kremsmünster, A.D. 893,
+together with the confiscated property of a Count Engelschalk,
+who carried off the Emperor’s natural daughter. Arnulph feigned
+forgiveness,
+<span class="pagenum">164</span>
+ and luring the Count
+back from Zwentibold, whither he had fled with the Princess, delivered
+him over to the diet at Ratisbon, who condemned him to lose his eyes,
+and his nephew Wilhelm, his head. In the year 900, Count Sighard (whose
+name is handed down to the modern traveller, by the little post town of
+Sighardskirchen, near Vienna) built a castle at Ebelsberg, which was
+destroyed on the defeat of the Germans by the Hungarians in 993. A new
+castle was built shortly afterwards on the same spot, and destroyed by
+Frederick of Austria in 1242, in consequence of the excesses committed
+by Rudiger, Bishop of Passau, who, in conjunction with the Lords of
+a castle at Obernberg on the Inn, kept the whole intervening country
+in a state of terror. It was again rebuilt, and Rodolph of Hapsburg
+defeated here one hundred and twenty knights, previous to his battle
+with Ottocar. In 1586, this third castle was destroyed by fire. Stephen
+Fadinger established his head-quarters here in 1626, and arrested
+the Imperial Commissioners. In the August of that year the peasants
+were defeated at Ebelsberg, with the loss of two thousand men. </p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum">165</span>
+Below Steyereck, the left bank alone
+is hilly; the right resumes the flat, sedgy appearance it presented
+from Regensburg to Straubing. Luftenberg, an old place upon the left
+bank, commanding a fine view over the opposite country, is principally
+remarkable as the spot where the fanatical visionary Laimbauer held
+forth in 1635-36. He entrenched himself, with the wretched enthusiasts
+who followed him, in the church of Frankenberg, and after wounding and
+killing many of the officers sent to apprehend him, from its windows,
+left his disciples to be burnt alive. He was, however, taken in his
+attempt to escape the flames, and executed at Linz. The monastery of
+St. Florian now appeared on our right, and shortly afterwards the
+chateau called Tilly’s Burg. St. Florian, to whose honour the monastery
+was erected, suffered martyrdom A.D. 303, at Lorch on the Ens, where,
+by order of a commander named Aquilinus, he was thrown from the bridge
+into the river, with a stone round his neck. His spirit appeared to
+a matron, and directed her where to find and where to bury his body;
+<span class="pagenum">166</span>
+ and over his grave, as the story
+runs, an altar was first erected, then a church, and lastly a kloster.
+Stephen Fadinger had his head-quarters here in 1626.</p>
+
+<p>Tilly’s Burg is a large square building with four towers, and
+said to contain as many windows as there are days in the year, a
+peculiarity attributed to at least a dozen places in England, and I
+believe generally reported of every mansion with more windows than
+one would take the trouble to count. On the spot where this chateau
+now stands, once arose the tower of the castle of Volkerstorf, the
+seat of one of the most ancient and powerful families in Austria. Some
+warriors of that name fought at Constanz as early as 948. In 1146 a
+Volkerstorf accompanied Duke Leopold to the tournament at Zurich.
+Ortolph von Volkerstorf stabbed Henrich Wittigo, secretary to the
+Emperor Frederick II., in the monastery of St. Florian, for which
+deed he and his brother were banished, their property confiscated,
+and their castle destroyed. In the Diet of Augsburg, A.D. 1275,
+Bernhard von Volkerstorf spoke vehemently against Ottocar, <span
+class="pagenum">167</span> King of Bohemia, whom he openly accused of
+attempting to poison his own wife, and of tyrannising over Austria.
+Under the protection of the House of Hapsburg, the Volkerstorfs
+returned to their native country, and rebuilt their castle in 1331. In
+1558 it suffered materially by fire, and the last of the family having
+embraced the Lutheran faith, the whole of his property was confiscated
+in 1620, and the castle given, three years afterwards, by the Emperor
+Ferdinand, to the famous Count Tserclas von Tilly<a id="FNank_49"
+href="#FN_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>. In 1630-32, he built <span
+class="pagenum">168</span> the present chateau, on the site of the old
+castle, and in the appellation of Tilly’s Burg buried all recollection
+of the ancient Lords of Volkerstorf, whose once dreaded name is now
+only known to the peasant of Austria, as that of a little insignificant
+village in the neighbourhood of Ens. The last female of Tilly’s family,
+the Countess Montfort, sold the Burg in 1730, to the Bavarian Baron von
+Weichs.</p>
+
+<p>Near Tilly’s Burg is the old village of Kronau, known as early as
+the times of Thassillo, Duke of Bavaria, by the name of Kranesdorf,
+and on the left bank lie Hof-im-Schlag, Himberg, Auwinden, St.
+Georgen, and two or three other small places, remarkable only for
+their great antiquity. To the north of St. Georgen lies <span
+class="pagenum">169</span> Frankenstein, where the miserable followers
+of Laimbauer met their horrible fate.</p>
+
+<p>We now approached the old square tower of Spielberg, which, together
+with the steeples of the city of Ens, we had for some time seen in
+the distance, backed by the glittering and rugged line of the Styrian
+Alps. The ruin of Spielberg stands upon an Island near the right bank
+of the Danube, and just in the angle formed by the stream, which,
+having stretched away boldly to the south-east, here turns sharply off
+to the north, and washes the walls of the market town of Mauthausen,
+which is seen through a vista of islands at the extremity of a distant
+point of land. Spielberg is admirably situated for a Raub-schloss,
+which was of course its original character. Otto and Eckbert von
+Spielberg were slain in Frederick Barbarossa’s Italian expedition,
+A.D. 1156, and one Dittmar von Spielberg was present at the siege of
+Milan in 1158. In 1328, the family of Spielberg became extinct, the
+last of that name, Eberhard, having previously sold the city and castle
+of Ens to the Emperor Rudolph I., for six hundred marks. Reinprecht
+von Walsee possessed
+<span class="pagenum">170</span>
+ Spielberg in
+1329, and after passing through several hands, it finally formed part
+of the dower brought by the Countess of Weissenwolf to her husband
+in 1635. There is a small fall of the river here, which was at one
+time considered dangerous by the timid boatmen on the Danube, and
+has been confounded by some writers with the celebrated Strudel,
+probably from one of the names given to it by the schiffers, viz. Der
+Saurüssel<a id="FNank_50" href="#FN_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>.
+It is also called by some, the Neubruch: small boats seldom venture
+through it, though a slight tossing would, I should imagine, be the
+only consequence. My companion and I often laughed, to think how a
+smart English six-oared cutter would astonish the natives here, who
+are certainly the clumsiest and most fearful navigators in Europe.
+Mauthausen is said by the boatmen to be half of Aschach, which, carried
+away by an inundation of the Danube, floated with the current down to
+this spot,—a strange tradition, which it is supposed has arisen from
+a fancied resemblance between the two towns. Howsoever it came, it
+stands in a
+<span class="pagenum">171</span>
+ very pleasant situation,
+directly opposite to the mouth of the Ens, and looking up that river
+upon the city of Ens, and the far-distant peaks and glaciers of the
+Styrian Alps. There was a bridge of boats here in 1809, but it was
+destroyed by the Bavarians. The neighbouring tower of Pragstein was
+occupied by the French in 1742. Mauthausen suffered severely in the war
+between Rudolph and Matthias, and in the insurrections during the reign
+of Ferdinand. There is a woollen-stocking and a leather manufactory
+here, a dye-house of some celebrity, and a salt-market, from whence the
+greater part of Bohemia is supplied.</p>
+
+<p>The city of Ens is supposed to have been originally constructed
+out of the ruins of the Roman Lorch, (indifferently called Laureacum,
+Lavoriacum, Blaboriacum, Loriacte,) the station of the second Italian
+legion, upon the site of which is still a little village of the name.
+Ammianus Marcellinus is the oldest historian who makes mention of
+Laureacum. Bruschius, Hansiz, and Aventine assert, that Lorch was
+destroyed by Attila, on his
+<span class="pagenum">172</span>
+ march
+to Gaul; but the biographer of St. Severin states, that two years
+after the passage of Attila, that holy person arrived at Lorch from
+the neighbourhood of Vienna, and found it flourishing, and a Christian
+priest established therein. The Huns might have taken the left bank
+of the Danube, particularly as it was their nearest road. From an
+inscription on the walls of Ens, it would appear that two of the holy
+Evangelists themselves took the city under their especial protection,
+and converted the people to Christianity<a id="FNank_51" href="#FN_51"
+class="fnanchor">[51]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>St. Peter himself is also said to have preached the gospel here
+in the year 49. In 454, Lorch is reported to have been preserved
+by the prayers of St. Severin, but was afterwards destroyed by the
+Barbarians, according to his own prediction in 737, when Bibilo,
+bishop of Lorch, fled with his monks to Passau, as I have <span
+class="pagenum">173</span> already mentioned in my notice of that city.
+The authentic history of Ens, however, commences during the reign of
+Charlemagne, when that Emperor, aware of the importance of such a
+situation, pitched his tents at the mouth of the Ens, which formed at
+that time the line of demarcation between Bavaria and the lands of the
+Avars or Huns of Pannonia, that people having, during the sixth and
+seventh centuries, “spread their permanent dominion from the foot of
+the Alps to the sea-coast of the Euxine <a id="FNank_52" href="#FN_52"
+class="fnanchor">[52]</a>.” Here, on the 5th of September, 791, he
+encamped, and, after fasting and praying for three days, proceeded
+on his expedition. The troops on the left bank of the Danube were
+commanded by the Counts Thederich and Meginfried; those on the right by
+the Emperor in person; and between the two hosts upon the river floated
+a third body, with provisions and necessaries for the whole army. In
+fifty-two days he penetrated
+<span class="pagenum">174</span>
+ to the
+river Rab, destroying the rings or wooden fortifications of the Avars,
+the first of which he found upon the Riederberge, by Tuln; and would
+have carried his victorious arms still farther, had not a contagious
+disorder killed nearly all his horses. In 805, we still hear of Lorch,
+which, under the names of Lorahha and Loracha, is designated as a villa
+regia, and mention is made of its market-place and of an imperial
+judge, one Warner or Warnhar. After the death of Arnulph the Bastard,
+the Hungarians burst into the country, and devastated it beyond the
+Ens. The Bavarians rallied, and beat them back; and Leopold, then
+Grenz-graf, or Count of the frontier, in the year 900, slew upwards
+of 3000 of them on the left bank of the Danube. In the same year, as
+a stronger check to their inroads, he erected on the Ens a strong
+fortress<a id="FNank_53" href="#FN_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> which
+he called Ensburg (Anasiburgum.) Buildings gradually rose around it;
+and in proportion as the old Roman city of Laureacum declined, its
+rival prospered, till their names
+<span class="pagenum">175</span>
+
+became confounded, and that of the new city predominating, a small
+village, probably on the actual site of the Roman town, alone retains
+the ancient appellation of Lorch. Richar, bishop of Passau, persuaded
+Louis the Child, that the fortress of Ensburg stood upon ground
+belonging to the monastery of St. Florian, and it was consequently
+ceded by the sovereign to that establishment. The Hungarians snatched
+it from its holy possessors in 907, when they defeated Louis, and slew
+the valiant markgraf Leopold, brother-in-law to Carloman, the bishops
+of Salzburg, Freysing, and Seben, three abbots, and nineteen counts.
+Leopold’s son, Arnulf, defeated the Barbarians on the Inn, in 912, and
+Conrad I. bribed them back over the frontiers in 918. After Arnulf’s
+death, the Barbarians again invaded Bavaria, but were ultimately,
+at the close of the tenth century, driven out of the country by the
+Markgraves, Leopold the Babenberger, and Burkhard, who carried the
+war into the enemy’s territories as far as Krems and Mölk. In a deed
+of the time of Otho II., Ensburg is still spoken of as distinct from
+<span class="pagenum">176</span>
+ Lorch or Lorach, and mention is made
+in the same deed of the church of St. Laurentius, situated without
+the walls of Lorch. Now there is a church of St. Laurence standing to
+this day, within ten minutes’ walk of the city of Ens; and though it
+was built as late as the time of Maximilian I., it is not improbable
+that it stands upon the site of the ancient edifice <a id="FNank_54"
+href="#FN_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>. In the important deeds by
+which Ottocar VI. made over the steyermark to Leopold of Austria, Ens
+is called by one party a markt, and by the other a village; and it is
+asserted by some writers that Ens was first made a fortified town by
+Leopold, who built its walls with the ransom of Richard Cœur de Lion!<a
+id="FNank_55" href="#FN_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> However this
+may be, and if true, it is a very
+<span class="pagenum">177</span>
+
+interesting circumstance, Ens certainly dates its existence as a city
+from somewhere about this period, as, at the close of the twelfth
+century, the Enser-fair was almost as much celebrated in Germany as
+that of Leipzig is at present. Rudolph of Hapsburg received the keys
+of Ens from the hands of a lord of Sumerau, and afterwards bought the
+city, for six hundred marks, of Eberhard von Spielberg.</p>
+
+<p>Duke Albert the Lame concluded here, in 1336, the peace with John,
+king of Bohemia, which gave Carinthia to Austria, and the Tyrol to
+Charles, the son of that monarch, afterwards Charles IV. The victorious
+army of Matthias Corvinus, king of Hungary, penetrated as far as Ens
+during the war with the Emperor Frederick III., and in 1532, the Turks,
+who had burst into Hungary and Austria, headed by the Sultan himself,
+pushed forward some troops to the walls of this city, between whom
+and the burghers a desperate conflict took place upon the bridge. In
+the insurrections of 1624, Stephen Fadinger summoned the town, and
+another rebel-chief, named
+<span class="pagenum">178</span>
+ Wurm,
+cannonaded it, but it stood out against both till relieved by Colonel
+Löbel, who defeated the peasants, and burned their camp. In 1683, while
+Cara Mustapha lay before Vienna, several flying parties of the Turks
+scoured the country around Ens, and penetrated nearly to Linz. On the
+4th of May, 1809, Napoleon had his headquarters here, and received
+a deputation from the townspeople of Mauthausen, which place he had
+threatened with bombardment.</p>
+
+<p>In the centre of the Platz stands a tall bell or clock tower built
+by Maximilian I. Some years ago a rib-bone was shown in it as that of
+a giant. It had most probably formed part of the stock in trade of
+an elephant, and was thought sufficiently curious to be removed to
+Cuvier’s museum in Paris. Many Roman antiquities have been discovered
+in Ens and its vicinity; some gold coins of the Emperor Probus, several
+marble busts, and inscribed stones. Some of the latter are still to be
+seen in the old Burg of Enseck.</p>
+
+<p>Two large stone coffins without any <span
+class="pagenum">179</span> inscription were dug out of the Aichberg, a
+short distance from the town, in 1808. Some monumental busts were also
+found, but they had been cut out of very bad sandstone, and were much
+injured by time.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   VI. -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">180</span>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Nieder-Walsee — Castles of Clam and Kreuzen — Ardagger — Grein — The
+Strudel and the Wirbel — Mistakes of various Authors concerning them — St.
+Nikola — Sarblingstein — Freystein — Hirschau — The Isper — Bösenbeug — Story of
+Bishop Bruno and the Lady Richlita — Ips — Gottsdorf.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After washing the walls of Ens, the river from which it takes its
+name hurries through several channels, into the Danube. In the time of
+Charlemagne it divided Bavaria from the lands of the Avars or Huns of
+Pannonia.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    —“Ad fluvium venit Anasum<br>
+    &nbsp;&nbsp;Qui medius Bajvarios sejunxit et Hunnos.”<br>
+    <span class="right">Saxo Poeta. T. II. p. 155.</span>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the point of its confluence with the Danube, the latter is
+again studded with islands, sandbanks and sunken rocks as far as
+Nieder-Walsee; and the history of the small market towns and villages
+upon its flat banks, is as uninteresting as their appearance. On the
+left, below the village of Nieder-Sebing, the little river Aust,
+formerly the boundary between the Slavi and the Bohemians, flows
+round an island, formed in its mouth, into the Danube; and <span
+class="pagenum">181</span> on the right, above the rippling Erla-bach,
+stands Erla-Kloster, a convent founded by Otto of Machland in the tenth
+century, and suppressed by the Emperor Joseph II. Our old steersman
+had been for some time complaining of illness, and now lay groaning
+upon some straw, having given up the paddle, by which the boat was
+steered, to the care of a lad who had joined us at Linz in the place
+of his son, an exchange which we had protested against at the time, as
+it was arranged at Ratisbon, that the same people should row us the
+whole way to Vienna, and the father and son were evidently the only
+persons who knew anything about the navigation of the river. The old
+man growing apparently worse every moment, we looked rather anxiously
+about for a place where we could land, and obtain some assistance, but
+none presented itself before our arrival, in sight of Nieder-Walsee;
+and therefore, although a mere group of huts, above which arose the
+old wall and curious tower of the Schloss, promised little in the way
+of accommodation, we determined to land there, and see what could be
+done to set our
+<span class="pagenum">182</span>
+ poor pilot on his
+legs again. Nieder-Walsee stands perched upon a rocky point of land,
+on the right bank of the Danube, and behind it the mountains again
+rear their forest-clothed heads. Upon the summit of one of the nearest
+stands Strengberg, a post station, through which the high road runs to
+Vienna, and from whence we enjoyed a splendid view of the Danube on our
+return by land to Linz. The castle of Nieder-Walsee was built by the
+same Eberhard, who erected Ober-Walsee on the Klausberg near Aschach,
+and stands on the site of the old castle of Sumerau, After the death of
+Reinprecht von Walsee in 1483, the castle was bought and sold, pledged
+and redeemed, by various families, till, in the Seven Years’ war, it
+became the property of the famous Field-marshal Daun, from one of whose
+descendants it was bought in 1810, by Count Wimpfer. A strong current
+runs round the point, and few boats, except those belonging to the
+inhabitants, approach the shore at this place, as there is considerable
+difficulty in getting back into the main stream, out of which one
+is aground every two minutes
+<span class="pagenum">183</span>
+ upon
+the gravelly shoals that rise in all directions in this part of the
+Danube, and can only be avoided by keeping in the middle of what the
+boatmen call the <i>Graben</i> (the trench or channel) of the river.
+Not aware, however, of this circumstance, and anxious to alleviate the
+sufferings of the old steersman, we directed his locum tenens to run
+into the shore, a business that was speedily effected, for we had no
+sooner come within the influence of the current, than round went the
+head of the boat, and in a few seconds we were brushing the bushes
+that hung over the steep bank, and hurried along it far beyond the
+proper landing-place. Two unfortunate discoveries were made together.
+The offer of a dram to the steersman cleared up the mystery of his
+malady. He had had a few too many already, and had laid down in the
+boat for the most excellent of all reasons, his inability to stand;
+our second discovery was equally annoying. We had got out of the
+stream, and the only person who was capable of getting us cleverly
+back into it was hors de combat. The rest of the crew knew as little
+about the matter
+<span class="pagenum">184</span>
+ as ourselves. As
+soon as we had escaped one current we found ourselves in the power
+of another, and with such force was the heavy, flat-bottomed punt
+we were in driven upon the shoals, that, with all the strength we
+could muster amongst us, we were sometimes ten minutes or a quarter
+of an hour before we could get her afloat again; and when we had at
+last effected it, round she spun, and there was her stern as fast as
+a church within a dozen yards of the spot where her head had been
+similarly situated two minutes before. At least an hour and a half was
+lost in this amusing exercise, during which we had the gratification
+of seeing the regular packet-boat that we had gotten the start of at
+Aschach, pass us far to the left, and, steering clear of all obstacles,
+vanish into the valley which opened between the wooded mountains in the
+distance. At last, when our strength, our patience, and the reproaches
+we poured rather unceremoniously on our drunken steersman were just
+exhausted, and we had begun to calculate upon the probability of
+passing the afternoon and evening at least upon the shoals, we found
+<span class="pagenum">185</span>
+ ourselves by accident, but to our
+unspeakable satisfaction, once more impelled forwards by a gentle and
+properly behaved current, which promised, in the course of time, to
+lead us into the stream we had in evil hour deserted.</p>
+
+<p>On the left bank of the Danube below Nieder-Walsee, stand the
+village of Saxen, and the Castles of Clam and Kreuzen. Saxen is
+mentioned as early as 823, in which year Louis the Debonair gave
+to Reginhard, Bishop of Passau, two churches at “Saxina in terra
+Hunnorum.” The towers of Clam rise above a forest of pines a little
+behind Saxen. It was anciently the seat of the Lords of Machland. The
+brother of Otto of Machland, who founded the kloster of Baumgartenberg,
+was the first of the family who signed himself “Chlamme,” A.D. 1156.
+On the extinction of the family of Machland, this Burg came to the
+Preuschenks, and in 1487, the troops of Matthias Corvinus besieged and
+took it. The family of Perger bought it in 1524, enlarged it in 1636,
+and took the title of Barons and afterwards of Counts of Clamm. The
+great white castle of Kreuzen,
+<span class="pagenum">186</span>
+ far
+away upon the summit of a hill to the north-west, also belonged to
+the Lords of Machland, and in the twelfth century was called Croucen
+and Chrutzen. In 1334, it came to the celebrated Volkerstorfs, The
+Counts of Meggar bought it in 1523, and when the Turks were devastating
+Upper Austria in 1526, its walls were filled with fugitives of all
+ranks and ages. In 1701, it was bought by a Count Cavariani, who sold
+it again almost immediately to the Count of Salburg. The market-town
+of Ardagger, upon the right bank, was given by Charlemagne to the
+bishopric of Passau. The Emperor Conrad III., when setting out on
+his unfortunate crusade, landed here on the 29th of May, 1147, to
+make the necessary preparation for passing with his fleet the then
+much-dreaded Strudel and Wirbel. Seventy thousand knights, completely
+armed, an equal number of foot-soldiers, a troop of females “in
+the armour and attitude of men,” the chief of whom, from her gilt
+spurs and buskins, obtained the epithet of “The golden-footed dame<a
+id="FNank_56" href="#FN_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>”, <span
+class="pagenum">187</span> passed down the Danube under the banners
+of Conrad. Two years afterwards, a few boats, principally filled with
+priests who had followed the army, returned to these shores; all that
+treachery, battle, and disease had left of the mighty host that had so
+lately marched in full confidence to the conquest of Asia!</p>
+
+<p>A sudden bend of the river near this spot, brought us again amongst
+the mountains, and in a moment we seemed shut out from the world by
+the craggy barriers that rose on each side of us,—the counterparts of
+those I have attempted to describe in the wild gorge of the Schlägen.
+After passing a few lonely huts, perched here and there amongst the
+masses of rock and forest, the chateau and town of Grein started at
+once into view, on turning a sharp and craggy point, cradled amongst
+the precipices which, opening behind the town, form a vista, terminated
+by the castle of Kreuzen on its
+<span class="pagenum">188</span>
+
+distant hill. Grein is one of the poorest and smallest towns in Upper
+Austria, and the chateau is a large, gloomy building, originally
+built by Heinrich von Chreine, in the twelfth century. Frederick the
+Handsome, Duke of Austria, pledged Grein for five hundred and sixty-two
+silver pfennige, to Albert von Volkerstorf, May 14th, 1308. The valiant
+Bernhard von Scherffenberg beat the Bohemians here twice, during the
+fifteenth century; at the close of which it was bought of the Emperor
+Maximilian by one of the family of Prueschenk. Heinrich von Prueschenk
+rebuilt the chateau, and from this circumstance it received the name of
+Heinrichsburg.</p>
+
+<p>The traveller now approaches the most extraordinary scene on
+the long Danube, from its source in the Black Forest, to its mouth
+in the Black Sea. As soon as a bend of the river has shut out the
+view of Grein and its chateau, a mass of rock and castle, scarcely
+distinguishable from each other, appears to rise in the middle of the
+stream before you. The flood roars and rushes round each side of it;
+and ere you
+<span class="pagenum">189</span>
+ can perceive which way
+the boat will take, it dashes down a slight fall to the left, struggles
+awhile with the waves, and then sweeps round between two crags, on
+which are the fragments of old square towers, with crucifixes planted
+before them. It has scarcely righted itself from this first shock, when
+it is borne rapidly forward towards an immense block of stone, on which
+stands a third tower, till now hidden by the others, and having at its
+foot a dangerous eddy. The boat flashes like lightning through the
+tossing waves, within a few feet of the vortex, and comes immediately
+into still water, leaving the passenger who beholds this scene for the
+first time, mute with wonder and admiration. These are the Scylla and
+Charybdis of the Danube, the celebrated Strudel and Wirbel. The passage
+is made in little more than the time it takes to read the above brief
+description, and I could scarcely scratch down the outlines of these
+curious crags and ruins, before I was whirled to some distance beyond
+them. I must beg my reader, however, to return with me, and repass them
+more leisurely, than the impatient
+<span class="pagenum">190</span>
+
+stream would permit us. The Danube, checked in its northern course at
+Grein, and driven unwillingly towards the east, vents its fury against
+the opposing crags on the left bank, and having broken down part of
+the barrier, rides over the ruins in triumph, forming what is called,
+by the boatmen, the Grein-Schwall. After this ebullition of anger,
+the stream appears to sink into sullen indifference, and slowly and
+silently pursues its way through a gloomy gorge of precipices, that
+rise higher and higher on each side of it, till it arrives within a
+few yards of the Wörthinsel, an island, about four hundred fathoms
+long, and two hundred broad, surrounded by sand-banks on all sides
+except the north, where a perpendicular crag starts up, bearing on
+its crest the ruins of the Wöther-Schloss, or Castle of Werfenstein<a
+id="FNank_57" href="#FN_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>. From <span
+class="pagenum">191</span> this island to the rocky shores of the
+Danube, which here open and form a kind of circle around it, run
+several chains of crags beneath the water; some indeed peering above
+it, over and through which the stream rushes right and left, with
+considerable violence and uproar. The right arm is called the Hössgang,
+and is only passable when the water is very high, by the smallest and
+lightest craft. The main body hurries round the northern or left side
+of the island, and boiling over the first chain of rocks, falls through
+three separate channels, a depth of three feet in a distance of four
+hundred and eighty. This fall is called the Strudel; but the boatmen
+have a name for each channel, and call that one in particular the
+Strudel which is nearest to the north shore of the island: the centre
+channel is called the Wildriss; and the third, nearest the main bank,
+the Waldwasser<a id="FNank_58" href="#FN_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a>.
+The three principal crags
+<span class="pagenum">192</span>
+ which,
+standing in the entrance of these three channels, form part of the
+bank or bar, over which the water falls into them, have also their
+particular names; that in the entrance to the Strudel is called the
+Bomben-Gehäkel, or Buma-G’hachelt; the next, the Wildriss-Gehäkel,
+and the third, the Wald-Gehäkel,—the term Gehäkel or G’hachelt
+distinguishing the crags, the points of which generally appear
+above the surface, from those which lie beneath it, and which are
+called Kogeln or Kugeln. There are nearly a dozen of these Kogeln
+in the passage of the Strudel, the principal of which are named the
+Marchkugel, the Wolfskugel, and the Maisenkugel; and one, from its
+particular formation, the Dreyspitze. These lie in various directions,
+in the entrance and middle of the channels. At the outlet of the
+Wildriss there is a reef of rock called the Ross, the principal crag in
+which is named the Rosskopf; another reef, called the Felsengelander,
+lies at the end of the Waldwasser, beside which are two rocks called
+the Keller and the Hute. Some of these, at low water, are not more than
+two feet
+<span class="pagenum">193</span>
+ beneath the surface, and
+impassable, of course, by a boat of any size or burden.</p>
+
+<p>It may easily be supposed that a stream like the Danube does not
+flow very quietly over so rugged a bed, and though considerable masses
+of rock have been blown up, and the channels otherwise much widened
+and deepened within the last fifty years, there are still obstacles
+enough to fret and agitate the river to a degree which gives at least
+an appearance of danger to the passage, if even there be not a little
+in reality. At the end of the fall, or Strudel, on the left, and of
+the Hössgang on the right, the rocky shores again approach each other,
+and the river, uniting its currents, sweeps rapidly round to the north
+beneath a jutting crag, upon which stands the ruins of the castle of
+Struden, and washes the walls of the little town of the same name. The
+castle belonged anciently to the lords of Machland, and after them to
+the Archdukes of Austria. In 1413, the Archdukes Leopold and Ernest
+gave the “Feste haus ze Struden” to one Hans Greisenecker, who already
+possessed the Castle of Werfenstein, for “a consideration;” <span
+class="pagenum">194</span> and in 1493, the brothers Heinrich and
+Sigmund Prueschenk bought both castles from the House of Austria, to
+which they had reverted.</p>
+
+<p>About a thousand yards below Struden, but near the right bank of
+the river, rises the large block of stone called the Hausstein, upon
+which are the ruins of the tower of the same name; round the southern
+side of this block struggles a small arm of the Danube, called the
+Lueg, and navigable like the Hössgang, when the water is very high,
+by small boats only. On the northern side is the celebrated whirlpool
+(Der Wirbel), formed most probably by the violence with which the
+two currents of the Danube are hurled against each other on leaving
+the Wörthinsel, and again checked and divided by the Hausstein.
+This whirlpool measures sometimes nearly fifty feet in diameter;
+but when we passed it, it did not, I should think, exceed fifteen.
+In the centre the water forms a perfect funnel, and a large branch
+of fir was whirling round and round in it, as if some invisible
+hand were stirring the natural cauldron, and making it “boil <span
+class="pagenum">195</span> and bubble.” All sorts of extravagant
+stories have of course been circulated respecting this dreaded vortex,
+which is gravely affirmed by some of the old writers to have no bottom.
+Munster, in his Kosmographie, printed at Basle in 1567, says, “They
+have often sounded in this place, but the abyss is so deep that they
+can touch no ground. It is bottomless. What falls therein, remains
+under and never comes up again.”—b. III. sam. 965. This writer also
+confounds the Strudel with the Wirbel.<a id="FNank_59" href="#FN_59"
+class="fnanchor">[59]</a></p>
+
+<p>Father Kircher vows there is a hole underneath the Wirbel,
+which sucks in the waters of the Danube, and a subterranean <span
+class="pagenum">196</span> channel connected with it, by which the
+said water is conveyed into Hungary, where it rises again, and
+forms the Plattensee or Lake of Balaton! Others claim the same
+origin for the Lake of Neusiedle<a id="FNank_60" href="#FN_60"
+class="fnanchor">[60]</a>, and to clinch the fable, which is still
+reverently believed by the Hungarians, assert, that a travelling
+cooper, who lost some of his tools in the Wirbel, absolutely found them
+again floating on the surface of the Neusiedler-see.</p>
+
+<p>Happelius, as in support of this hypothesis, says, “it is well known
+that the Danube loses a considerable quantity of its waters in the
+Wirbel, so that its flood is of much less consequence from that spot
+down to Vienna,” a falsehood which a glance at the river is capable at
+once of refuting.</p>
+
+<p>There can be no doubt that, in earlier ages, there must have
+been considerable danger in passing these falls and eddies; <span
+class="pagenum">197</span> and even now, when the water is low, an
+inexperienced or careless steersman might easily get the bottom of
+his boat knocked out in the Strudel, or its side staved in by the
+crags of the Hausstein, under either of which circumstances the
+passengers would stand a very fair chance of being drowned. I cannot
+help thinking our own rather a narrow escape, for my readers will
+recollect that, on leaving Nieder-Walsee, our worthy pilot was lying
+dead drunk in the stern of the boat. To our utter astonishment,
+however, upon approaching the Grein-Schwall, he managed to get upon
+his legs, and, as if sobered for the moment by a sudden sense of his
+own situation, snatched the rudder from the boy (who in a few minutes
+would certainly have had us upon the rocks), steered us manfully and
+cleverly through the Strudel and Wirbel, and then flung himself down
+again on his straw as drunk and insensible as before. Had we been
+aware of the vicinity of these places, we should certainly have taken
+a pilot on board at Ardagger, but we had no idea we were so near them,
+and the poor fellows who rowed
+<span class="pagenum">198</span>
+ us
+were altogether ignorant of the river, and merely working their way to
+Vienna. The passage was, however, made before we had time to think of
+our danger, almost indeed before we knew where we were; and absorbed
+in contemplation of the romantic beauty of the scene, nothing short of
+absolute foundering could, I believe, have distracted our attention
+from it. Riesbeck, after a brief description of this spot, says, “a
+great variety of circumstances concur to excite an idea of danger in
+both these parts of the Danube. Low mechanics are fond of speaking
+of them, and magnifying the danger, that they may increase their own
+importance in having gone through it. Others, more simple, who come to
+the place with strong conceits of what they are to meet with there, are
+so struck with the wildness of the prospect, and the roaring of the
+water, that they begin to quake and tremble before they have seen any
+thing. But the masters of the vessels are those who most effectually
+keep up the imposition. They make the passage a pretence for raising
+the price of the freight, and when you are past them the steersman
+goes round with
+<span class="pagenum">199</span>
+ his hat in his hand
+to collect money from the passengers as a reward for having conducted
+them safely through such perilous spots. When our master (who yet very
+well knew how much it was for his interest to keep up the credit of his
+monsters) saw how little attention I paid to them, he assured me in
+confidence that <i>during the twenty years he had sailed the Danube,
+he had not heard of a single accident</i>.” This account was written
+in 1780, and yet only three years before, (on the 31st of October
+1777,) two vessels struck, one on the Wolfs-Kugel, and the other on the
+Maisenkugel, and went to pieces. In 1749, a Schiffmeister of Passau,
+named Freidenberger, perished with his daughter in the whirlpool, and
+another Schiffmeister, Martin Beyerl, of Vienna, was drowned in it, at
+the commencement of the century.</p>
+
+<p>The danger has certainly, however, been much diminished by
+the exertions of the Austrian government, which, besides having
+considerably widened and deepened the channels of the Strudel and
+Hössgang, by blowing up the rocks and removing the sand, has instituted
+sundry prudent regulations
+<span class="pagenum">200</span>
+ respecting
+the navigation of this part of the Danube. All boats ascending the
+river when the water is only of a certain height, are obliged to stop
+at the little town of Struden till information is sent to Grein and
+the Saurüssel, at both which places a flag is immediately hoisted to
+give notice to any vessels descending the stream, that one is coming up
+through the Strudel, and so prevent the collision that would be likely
+to take place should they attempt to pass it in contrary directions
+at the same time, the descending vessel being compelled, under a
+heavy penalty, to lay to, above the rock called the Rabenstein, till
+the other has passed. Also when the water is of a sufficient height
+to enable the ascending boats to pass through the southern channels
+of the Lueg and the Hössgang, the horses keep the towing-path on the
+right bank from Ips to Wiessen, a small place facing Grein. But when
+the water is low, the horses are ferried three times across the river
+in the short distance of 1200 yards; first below the Wirbel, from the
+right bank over to the left; then from the town of Struden to the
+<span class="pagenum">201</span>
+ Wörthinsel; and lastly, from the
+western end of that island over the Hössgang, back again to the right
+bank, under the Rabenstein.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as you have passed the Wirbel, a boat puts off from the
+little town of St. Nikola on the left bank, and paddling alongside,
+a man holds out a box with the figure of the saint in it for the
+“voluntary contributions” of the passengers, who are expected to
+drop a few kreutzers in acknowledgment of the protection that has
+been so kindly afforded them by his saintship. On board the regular
+passage-boat, money is also collected by the steersman as Riesbeck
+describes, and another ceremony likewise takes place, something similar
+to that customary on board a ship when passing the line. The steersman
+goes round with the wooden scoop or shovel, with which they wet the
+ropes that bind the paddles to their uprights, filled with water; and
+those who have never before passed through the Strudel and the Wirbel
+must either pay or be well soused with the element, the perils of which
+they have just escaped. </p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum">202</span>
+In 1144, Beatrix of Klamm founded
+an hospital at St. Nikola for travellers on the Danube, which she
+so richly endowed, that Albert of Austria, two hundred years later,
+found it only necessary to provide for the spiritual welfare of its
+visitants, and therefore established a daily mass with the money
+collected on the river from Ardagger to Ips, in the manner above
+mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>There were formerly two other towers or fortresses in the
+neighbourhood; the ruins of one still exist on the northern bank of the
+river, nearly facing the Wirbel, on the rock called the Langen-Stein.
+The other was, as early as the twelfth century, spoken of as “the
+ruined castle of the noble Lady Helchin,” and not a fragment of it is
+now remaining. An old story, which I shall shortly have occasion to
+transcribe, speaks of the tower called “Der Teufelsthurm,” (the Devil’s
+Tower) but whether either of the four still standing have a claim to
+that respectable appellation or no, is a question at present undecided.
+It is accorded by some writers to the Castle of Werfenstein.</p>
+
+<p>The gorge through which the river now <span
+class="pagenum">203</span> flows calmly and silently as it had never
+been ruffled, is of the same description as that from Hayenbach to
+Neuhaus, but the mountains that line its shores are still higher, and
+often</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Their lofty crests are capped with snow,<br>
+    &nbsp;While blossoms deck the vale below.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>So deep is the water, and so steady the stream, that boats of any
+burden may drift down it in the darkest night with perfect safety. We
+now floated past the old round tower of Sarblingstein, standing on a
+pedestal of granite, above a little group of houses, beside which the
+rivulet of Sarbling brawls through a woody ravine over the rocky bank
+into the Danube. The tower is all that remains of a fortress built by
+the Monks of Waldhausen in 1538, with the permission of the Emperor
+Ferdinand, upon the express condition that it should be considered an
+asylum for the inhabitants of the neighbourhood in case of invasion or
+civil war. Hirschau, close under Sarblingstein, is the last hamlet in
+Upper Austria, or Austria on the Ens. Opposite it on the right bank
+are the scarcely visible remains of the castle of Hirschau, <span
+class="pagenum">204</span> and further east, upon the mountain top,
+lie the extensive ruins of Freystein, formerly one of the largest and
+strongest castles in Austria. At the close of the fourteenth century,
+it belonged to the famous Reinprecht von Walsee, and after him to the
+families of Preuschenk and Zinzendorf. The Prince of Starrhemberg also
+once possessed it. Near this spot two valleys open to the south-west,
+and from thence the granite is brought with which the streets of Vienna
+are paved. The labourers employed to blast the rocks and work the
+quarries live close by in the little village of Dörfel; beside which
+the rivulet Isper, the Hyspere of the middle ages, rippling through a
+narrow valley, forms the line of boundary northward between Upper and
+Lower Austria.</p>
+
+<p>The sun went down and the mountains seemed to sink with it, or
+melt into the mists that crept around them. The valley of the Danube
+widened,—a large building rose on the left bank, upon the end of
+a rocky promontory, throwing a deeper gloom over the darkening
+waters, its lofty tower piercing through the low vapours <span
+class="pagenum">205</span> and soaring into the clear, star-spangled
+sky above them—it was Schloss Bösenbeug, the summer residence of the
+Emperor, and one of the oldest buildings in Lower Austria, though the
+alterations made during the last century by its then possessors, the
+Herren von Hoyos, have taken much from the antique appearance of its
+exterior<a id="FNank_61" href="#FN_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a>.
+Nearly facing it on the right bank stood the small chateau of
+Donaudorf, and beyond these two buildings, the river opened to the
+right and left, in the same manner that it did below Neuhaus. A
+multitude of lights glimmering amidst a black mass of houses and
+huts, and reflected in long trembling lines upon the water, pointed
+out to us the town of Ips, similarly situated to that of Aschach. The
+Castle of Bosenbeug or Persenbeug belonged in the ninth century to
+that Count Engelschalk who carried off the daughter of Arnulph the
+Bastard, and afterwards lost his eyes and his estates by the sentence
+of the Diet at Ratisbon, as has been already described in <span
+class="pagenum">206</span> the notice of Ebelsberg near Linz: Nearly
+all the confiscated property of Engelschalk was given by Arnulph to the
+monks of Kremsmünster; but, curiously enough, this Castle of Bösenbeug,
+by a train of circumstances, eluded for a long time the clutches of
+“holy mother Church,” who laboured indefatigably, “by hook or by
+<i>crook</i>,” to get it into her possession. How it escaped her grasp
+in the ninth century is not clear, but it certainly did do so, and
+became the property of the valiant Bavarian Sieghart von Sempt, to whom
+probably it was given as a stronghold, that would enable him better to
+defend the duchy against the inroads of the Hungarians. Sieghart fell
+gloriously in the execution of his trust, A.D. 907, in the terrible
+battle fought between Theben and Haimburg. To work of course went
+the monks, and at length so wrought upon the mind of one of his weak
+descendants, Albert III.; that he bequeathed to them at his death “the
+strong castle of Bösenbeug,” in despite of the entreaties of his wife
+Richlinde, or Richlita, who strove to preserve it to the next male
+heir, her nephew Welf von Altorf. The
+<span class="pagenum">207</span>
+
+breath was scarcely out of the body of Albert, when a desperate
+struggle ensued between his widow and the monks of Ebersberg. The
+lady had taken up her residence in the castle, which she claimed as
+part of her jointure, with reversion to her nephew Welf, and refused
+to acknowledge the title of the church, which she contended had been
+fraudulently acquired. In the midst of this dispute, a circumstance
+took place which shall be related as nearly as possible in the words
+of the old chronicler Aventine. “The Emperor” (Henry III. surnamed the
+Black) “departed from Regensburg and came by water to Passau: there
+he tarried during the Passion week; and till the holy feast of the
+Ascension. The next day after which he again took water; and journeyed
+into Lower Bavaria, as Austria was then called. There is a town in
+Austria by name Grein; near this town is a perilous place in the
+Danube, called the Strudel by Stockerau<a id="FNank_62" href="#FN_62"
+class="fnanchor">[62]</a>. There doth one hear the water rushing far
+and
+<span class="pagenum">208</span>
+ wide, so falls it over the rocks
+with a great foam, which is very dangerous to pass through, and brings
+the vessel into a whirlpool, rolling round about. The Emperor Henry
+went down through the Strudel; in another vessel was Bruno, bishop of
+Wurtzburg, the Emperor’s kinsman; and as the bishop also was passing
+through the Strudel, there sat upon a rock that projected out of the
+water, a man blacker than a Moor, of a horrible aspect, terrible to all
+who beheld it, who cried out and said to bishop Bruno, ‘Hear!
+hear! bishop! I am thine evil spirit! thou art mine own, go where
+thou wilt, thou shalt be mine, yet now I will do nought to thee,
+but soon shalt thou see me again<a id="FNank_63" href="#FN_63"
+class="fnanchor">[63]</a>.’ All who heard this were terrified. The
+bishop crossed and blessed himself, said a few prayers, and the spirit
+vanished. This rock is shewn to this day; upon it is built <span
+class="pagenum">209</span> a small tower all of stone, without any
+wood: it has no roof, and is called the Devil’s Tower. Not far from
+thence, some two miles journey, the Emperor and his people landed,
+purposing to pass the night in a town called Pösenbeiss, belonging
+to the Lady Richlita, widow of the Count Adalbero von Ebersberg. She
+received the Emperor joyfully; invited him to a banquet, and prayed
+him, besides, that he would bestow the town of Pösenbeiss and other
+surrounding places (that her husband had possessed and governed) on her
+brother’s son, Welforic III. The Emperor entered the banquet-room, and
+standing near Bishop Bruno, Count Aleman von Ebersberg and the Lady
+Richlita, gave the countess his right hand and granted her prayer.
+At that moment the floor of the apartment fell in, and the Emperor
+fell through into the bathing-chamber below it, without sustaining
+any injury, as did also Count Aleman, and the Lady Richlita, but the
+bishop fell on the edge of the bathing-tub, broke his ribs, and died a
+few days afterwards.” Other writers say, that the Count and the Lady
+Richlita both died from the
+<span class="pagenum">210</span>
+ hurts
+they received; but be that as it may, the right heir was, according to
+the Emperor’s promise, established at Bösenbeug, A.D. 1045, in spite
+of the intrigues and plots of the monks, whose agents had frightened
+and killed the poor bishop, he having, as it appears, spoken a good
+word for the lady, who is supposed also to have fallen a victim to
+the same scandalous trick, copied most likely from a similar tragical
+farce played off by the celebrated St. Dunstan, about seventy years
+before, in England. Some time afterwards the monks renewed their claim
+in applications to the Markgraves Albert I. and Leopold III., but
+without success, the latter, in 1096, giving the castle to his youngest
+daughter, Richardis. Thus foiled, they went on a new tack, and managed
+to persuade the husband of this Princess, Count Stephaning, to join
+the first crusade, in the hope that he would never return, and that
+Bösenbeug would at length become their property. Half of the charitable
+wish was granted.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Audiit, et voti Phœbus succedere partem<br>
+    &nbsp;Mente dedit: partem volucris dispersit in auras.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The bones of the poor crusader whitened <span
+class="pagenum">211</span> the deserts of Syria, but his castle
+reverted to the Markgraves of Austria. Ottocar, king of Bohemia, gave
+it in 1271 to the patriarch of Aquileia; but in the reign of the
+Emperor Albert I. we find it again in the possession of the house of
+Austria. The Emperor Frederick IV. took possession of it as guardian
+of Ladislaus, but he was ejected by force of arms in 1457, and the
+castle given back to Ladislaus. Rudolph II. pledged and afterwards sold
+it, with Rohreck, Weinberg, and the whole Isperthal, to the Barons of
+Hoyos, from which family it was repurchased by the present emperor in
+1801. The tilt-yard is still in good preservation, and the gardens
+are beautiful. His Majesty is very partial to the spot, and makes
+frequent excursions by land as far as the Strudel and Wirbel, from
+whence he returns in the boat of a schiffmeister at Bösenbeug of the
+name of Feldmüller, whom he patronizes highly, and who is considered
+the richest man of his calling in Lower Austria. He builds yearly about
+twenty of the boats called kellheimers, and employs one hundred horses
+and three hundred men. Most of the
+<span class="pagenum">212</span>
+
+inhabitants of the little markt of Bösenbeug have, as may be supposed,
+considerably benefited from its becoming an Imperial residence.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Ips or Yps, as it is indifferently spelt, on the
+opposite bank, is supposed by some old geographers to be the Usbium
+of Ptolemy, by others the Pons Isidis. It is seated at the confluence
+of a river of the same name with the Danube; and, in the time of
+Charlemagne, appears under the name of Ibesse and Isebruch, as the
+property of the Counts of Sempt and Ebersberg. In 1275, Ips threw
+open its gates to Rudolph of Hapsburg; and, in 1741, the Bavarian
+and French armies here formed a junction: its name has, however,
+become familiar to foreign lands, not from the deeds of arms done in
+its neighbourhood, but from its having shared with Passau the trade
+in the crucibles made at Hafner-zell; and which, as I have before
+mentioned, are distinguished throughout the world by the names of
+the places where they are sold, instead of that of the spot where
+they are fabricated. Immediately below Ips, the river forms a reach,
+<span class="pagenum">213</span>
+ which, from the difficulty of its
+navigation, obtained the appellation that has eventually attached
+itself to the point of land at which it commences,—Die Böse-Beug,
+literally, “the bad corner.” Before we turned this corner, however,
+night had sunk down upon land and flood, and our crew began to be
+clamorous for rest and refreshment. Our drunken beast of a steersman,
+whom we had now begun cordially to detest, insisted upon proceeding
+as far as Marbach; and accordingly the men, who knew nothing of the
+river, pulled away again for a quarter of an hour rather sulkily;
+when, having lost sight of the lights of Ips, and seeing none appear
+in the distance, they again expressed symptoms of impatience, and upon
+receiving from a passing boat the information that Marbach was yet
+“eine starke stunde” (a long hour) distant, they became outrageous,
+and vowed they would run the boat ashore, at the first village they
+could discover. Neither my companion nor myself much objected to
+their determination, as there was every probability, from their utter
+ignorance of the river, the inability of the steersman to direct
+them, and the
+<span class="pagenum">214</span>
+ heavy fog that was
+fast rising, that in the course of a few minutes we should go bump
+ashore somewhere, whether we would or no; and therefore a hovel,
+where bed and supper might be procured, was certainly preferable to
+a sandbank without either. Two or three tapers glimmering above the
+fog through something like windows, attracting our notice on the
+left, the men pulled towards it, and our boat soon grated on the
+sand, under what first appeared a lofty wall, but which turned out,
+on examination, a steep bank, upon the ridge of which stood half a
+dozen poor cottages. Up we clambered on all fours, dragging our cloaks
+and portmanteaus with us; and a man making his appearance with a
+lantern, we followed him into an old crazy-looking hovel, which, by
+the outward and visible sign of a dead bush dangling over its door,
+too plainly indicated the miserable state of its inward and spiritual
+grace, though dignified by the title of a gasthaus<a id="FNank_64"
+href="#FN_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a>. Several sufficiently
+ill-looking fellows in jackets of undressed black sheep-skin, caps
+<span class="pagenum">215</span>
+ of the same material, and high
+boots, each with a formidable clasp-knife, worn as an English
+carpenter wears his rule; two brawny, bare-armed, masculine wenches
+in similar jackets, with dark handkerchiefs bound round their brows
+in the Austrian fashion; and an old hag, whose habits and person were
+equally indescribable, formed the rather startling group to which our
+guide introduced us. Our application for beds appeared to astonish
+them. They had no such thing; there was plenty of straw. They had
+no coffee, no butter;—the poor fellows who had rowed us sat down on
+a bench, and began to gnaw some dry bread, the only refreshment the
+<i>hotel</i> seemed capable of furnishing. On a sudden it occurred to
+us that a basin of boiled milk might be procurable, and sure enough
+half a gallon, at least, of delicious milk was in ten minutes smoking
+in two glorious wooden bowls, upon the long oaken table before us.
+Our host now entered with one or two helpers laden with straw, which
+they spread all over the floor, and our crew, having finished their
+crusts, stretched themselves out in a row, their knapsacks under <span
+class="pagenum">216</span> their heads, and soon commenced a nasal
+symphony, more powerful than harmonious. The company and the family
+having one by one withdrawn, with the exception of the old beldame, who
+waited to take away the solitary candle, we betook ourselves also to
+our portion of the straw, and never in my life did I enjoy a sweeter,
+sounder sleep than that which bound up my senses in the humble gasthaus
+of Gottsdorf till six o’clock the next morning.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   VII. -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">217</span>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Marbach. — Maria-Taferl. — Pechlarn. — Wiedeneck. — Mölk. — Lubereck. — The
+Valley of the Wachau. — Schönbühel. — Aggstein. — The Teufel’s-Mauer. — Spitz,
+and the Ruin of Hinterhaus. — Church and Village of St. Michel. — Castle of
+Dürrenstein. — Narrow escape of Marshal Mortier during the Campaign of
+1805. — Mautern. — Stein. — Krems. — Kloster Göttweih. — Trasenmauer. — Arrival at
+Tuln.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We had now been three days upon the water, during which time
+scarcely a cloud had speckled the deep blue of the sky. As the first
+light of morning, however, struggled through the little dingy casement
+of our humble hotel, we were disagreeably surprised at finding that the
+fog, which had risen the previous evening after sunset, still rolled
+heavily along the river, and threatened to continue the greater part,
+if not the whole of the day. We were still nearly two days’ journey
+from Vienna, and a change of weather, which might be portended by this
+unwelcome visitant, would probably make it four, five, or even six,
+before we could reach the capital, to say nothing of the disagreeables
+it would bring
+<span class="pagenum">218</span>
+ in its train. At the
+risk of losing the beauty of the prospect, therefore, we urged our
+immediate departure, but here we were met by a new difficulty. Our
+drunken steersman, who had lain all night in the boat, was now ill in
+<i>sober</i> sadness, and quite incapable of steering us. A new pilot
+was to be found, and, after much parley and delay, our host of the
+gasthaus signified his consent to take the helm; but the fog, instead
+of dispersing, as we had faintly hoped, with the rising sun, appeared
+to increase in density; and not one of our boatmen could be prevailed
+on to trust himself afloat in it. After at least another hour’s delay,
+and considerable altercation, by dint of a little money, and promise
+of more, we induced three out of the four to venture on board, and,
+about eight o’clock, pushed off into the fog, by this time quite as
+thick, though not so yellow, as that which pervades Lombard Street
+on a November afternoon. Fortunately this part of the Danube is not
+fertile in fine views. The small village of Barthub and Mössling,
+on the left, and Hinterhaus, and the two Agens, on the right, have
+nothing to recommend
+<span class="pagenum">219</span>
+ them, either in
+a picturesque or historical point of view; and the distant prospect
+of Maria-Taferl we had afterwards an opportunity of enjoying. The
+river, from Bösenbeug and Ips, makes a bold sweep to the south as far
+as Säusenstein, that stands on a small promontory on the right bank,
+round which its waters boil and foam, and form what, in earlier times,
+was called the Charybdis Pogica. The ruin here is of a very late date.
+It was a mansion belonging to some ecclesiastic, and burned by the
+French in the last war. The Cistercian convent near it, called St.
+Lorenz in the Gottesthal, was founded by Eberhard von Walsee, in 1336.
+In the fifteenth century, it was attacked and plundered by some of the
+knightly robbers who infested the neighbourhood, and who are termed
+“<i>fratres hostiles</i>” in the old chronicles. The tombs of the
+family of Walsee, which became extinct in 1483, are still in existence
+here. On that of Reinprecht, the last of his race, is simply his motto,
+“Thue Recht,” with the words beneath it, “periisti amor,” in allusion
+to the termination of the feud between the Houses of Walsee <span
+class="pagenum">220</span> and Schaumberg. All this; at least, says
+Herr Schultes, who had the advantage of visiting this spot in clearer
+weather—we saw neither ruin nor convent, nor tombs; but what we did
+see near this place was equally picturesque and striking. The sound of
+voices chaunting a kind of hymn, stole faintly on our ears, and, as
+it became more distinct, a boat appeared, like a phantom, in the fog,
+crowded with pilgrims, on their way to Marbach and Maria-Taferl. They
+were principally women, and sat huddled together round a priest, who,
+bare-headed, supported a crucifix, and occasionally chimed in, in a
+deep bass voice, with the quavering trebles of his companions. For a
+few minutes, they floated beside us, and then gradually melted again
+into the mist, as though they had been creatures of it, the hymn dying
+away in the distance.</p>
+
+<p>Before we reached Marbach, the fog, to our great gratification, had
+evidently begun to disperse. It still covered the face of the water,
+but the blue sky was visible above it; and the sun, occasionally
+breaking through it, gave us a glimpse of this or that bank, according
+to the situation of the boat. The
+<span class="pagenum">221</span>
+
+Markt of Marbach existed as early, at least, as the thirteenth century,
+as, in 1208, we hear of the Knights of Marbach. Almost every house
+in the place is an inn, as, lying under the lofty mountain, on which
+stands the most celebrated place of pilgrimage in Lower Austria—the
+church of Maria-Taferl, it is of course the place of rendezvous for the
+countless devotees who swarm from all parts of the empire to that holy
+shrine. The inhabitants of Vienna, in the middle of September, come on
+horseback, in every kind of vehicle, and even on foot, hundreds in a
+day, and return by the Danube. A great traffic is also carried on with
+these pious personages in crosses, amulets, rosaries, and holy images,
+pictures and books of all descriptions, by the inhabitants of Marbach;
+besides which, a number of beggars reside here, each of whom has his
+or her regular standing upon the path winding up the hill to the
+Maria-Taferl; and spend duly every evening, in eating and drinking, the
+large sums they have collected during the day. It has been calculated
+that upwards of a million and a half of florins are annually expended
+here;
+<span class="pagenum">222</span>
+ and the minister of the place
+told Herr Schultes that one year he himself had counted 135,000
+pilgrims. A proverbial rhyme tends also much to the well doing of the
+inhabitants of Marbach:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Wer nach Maria Taferl ein Wallfahrt maken thut<br>
+    &nbsp;Diess ihm Maria Taferl macht aller wiedergut:”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>which may be rendered,—</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    Who to Maria Taferl a pilgrimage hath ta’en,<br>
+    To him Maria Taferl shall make all good again.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Expense, therefore, is the last thing considered; and the spirit of
+extravagance extends itself even to the townspeople, who lavish, in the
+pride of their well-filled purses, ridiculous sums upon the decoration
+of their houses, so that, according to another German proverb, says
+Schultes,—</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="cc">
+  <p>“Was durch das Pfeifchen kommt, geht durch die Trommel davon.”</p>
+  <p>What comes through the fife goes away through the drum.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our new steersman put into this little markt to buy some beer and
+bread; and the fog now rolling off in broken masses, enabled us to get
+a peep at the town, which seemed a strange jumble of alehouses and
+chapels,
+<span class="pagenum">223</span>
+ signs and crucifixes, all
+very gaily and fantastically painted, and forming, in short, a most
+consistent trysting-place for “<i>publicans</i> and sinners.”</p>
+
+<p>Maria-Taferl is to the pious Austrian what Maria-Einsiedel is to
+the Roman Catholic Swabian, and Maria-Oetting to the Bavarian of the
+same persuasion. The lovers of an extensive and beautiful prospect
+may, for an hour’s climbing, enjoy, from the summit of the mountain
+on which it stands, a splendid panorama of the Danube and great part
+of Lower Austria, the Alps of the Steyermark, and the whole chain of
+mountains from the lofty Schneeberg in the Wiener-Wald, to the frontier
+of Bavaria. The history of this celebrated place of pilgrimage may be
+bought for two kreutzers, a great deal more than it is worth, but that
+it is amusing and instructive to see how grossly the Roman Catholic
+priesthood are yet permitted to gull an ignorant, and consequently
+superstitious people.</p>
+
+<p>The precious document sets forth with stating the well-known
+fact of the existence, from time immemorial, of a venerable <span
+class="pagenum">224</span> oak-tree on the top of the mountain, in
+which was placed a figure of the crucified Redeemer. To this spot the
+inhabitants of Klein-Pechlarn, a small village in the neighbourhood,
+used to repair every Easter Monday to put up their petitions for a fine
+harvest, and, after hearing the service chaunted, sat down at a stone
+table before the church-door, and ate, drank, and were merry; from
+whence arose the name of Maria-<i>Taferl</i>, or Mary of the Table.
+In 1662, a herdsman, either from ignorance or wantonness, attempted
+to hew down the sacred tree, on which age had already heavily laid
+its withering and deforming hand. At the first blow, however, the axe
+recoiled so violently, that it sprung from his grasp and wounded one of
+his feet severely. Unchecked by this warning, however, he
+made a second blow, when it again recoiled with still more
+violence, and desperately wounded his other foot<a id="FNank_65"
+href="#FN_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a>. The profane <span
+class="pagenum">225</span> herdman, now lifting up his eyes in agony,
+observed the crucifix, and struck with remorse, craved pardon of God
+for his impiety; upon which the blood stopped of its own accord,
+and his wounds healed immediately, without surgical or any human
+assistance! Ten years after this miraculous occurrence, a man named
+Alexander Schinnagel, who suffered under a deep and distressing
+melancholy, which he could not shake off, came, by heaven directed, to
+the house of a schoolmaster, who had in his chamber an image of the
+Virgin, called a Vesperbild. Schinnagel bought the image, and carried
+it home. In the middle of the night, he heard “a still small voice,”
+saying, “Wouldst thou be cured, take the image, and place it in the
+oak at Maria-Taferl.” Accordingly, at day-break, up rose Alexander,
+and proceeded with his purchase to the mountain-top, where he placed
+it as directed, taking down at the same time the crucifix, which age
+and exposure to the weather had nearly destroyed.. Immediately his
+melancholy left him, and he returned home a merry, and, we hope, a
+grateful man. Since that
+<span class="pagenum">226</span>
+ period the
+angels themselves have frequently visited the sacred spot. On the 17th
+of June, 1658, a most credible (credulous?) personage saw a snow white
+and luminous apparition, in mid-day, before the holy effigy. In 1659,
+three persons, equally worthy of belief, saw a whole troop of angels,
+in white garments, and in processional order, on their way to the
+Vesperbild. Another time, when forty people were collected together in
+its neighbourhood, three of them saw an angelical procession in the
+air, and three bright stars of remarkable magnitude immediately above
+the figure. Again, a procession of white-clothed personages was seen by
+eight or ten people, the leading apparition bearing a red cross; and
+shortly afterwards a wax taper was suddenly observed burning before
+the Vesperbild. In 1661, many other angelical phantoms were seen by
+sometimes thirty, and once by a hundred people at a time, all of
+them most respectable and credible witnesses, whose testimonies were
+registered, signed, and sworn to before the competent authorities! <a
+id="FNank_66" href="#FN_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum">227</span>
+As the vapours, which had till now
+enveloped us, began rapidly to yield to the power of the sun, and
+were swept in masses by the fresh breeze of morning from the bright
+face of the river and the fair hills beside it, disclosing the rich
+and beautiful prospect that opened upon us with the widening valley,
+smiling in warmth and light; it was impossible to suppress the remark,
+commonplace as it may be considered, that, thus, at no very distant
+period, would the mists of error and superstition fly before the
+increasing influence of knowledge and truth, and man, awaking to the
+contemplation of the sublime paths they enlighten, “Look,” full of
+hope, joy, and gratitude, “through Nature, up to nature’s God!”</p>
+
+<p>Albert IV., Duke of Austria, whose journey to the Holy Land gave
+rise to so many romantic stories, that he obtained the appellation
+of the “wonder of the world,” resided for some time at Marbach, in
+the valley of All Saints, with the Carthusians: “with them,” says a
+contemporary, “he
+<span class="pagenum">228</span>
+ attends matins,
+reads the lessons, makes inclinations, genuflexions, observes
+ceremonies, confessions and prayers. He not only joins them in the
+performance of divine service in the choir, but affords an example of
+humility by frequenting the Chapter-house. In a word, he calls himself
+brother Albert, and considers himself in every respect as one of the
+order<a id="FNank_67" href="#FN_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>.”</p>
+
+<p>So few travellers ever think of taking a boat to themselves,
+that we were hailed at Marbach, as an <i>ordinari-schiff</i><a
+id="FNank_68" href="#FN_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a>, by three poor
+women who wanted to go to Vienna. Having plenty of room to spare, we
+consented to their coming on board, which they accordingly did with
+their baskets and bundles sans cérémonie, imagining that they should
+have to pay the usual fare for their passage; and with this accession
+of company and cargo we again set forward. Below Schelmenbach and
+Krumpen-Nussbaum falls the mountain-stream called the Erlaf, into the
+Danube, named in deeds of the time of Charlemagne, and long the <span
+class="pagenum">229</span> boundary between Bavaria and the Land of
+the Huns. At the mouth of the Erlaf, is a Rechen or Grate, where the
+wood collects that is floated down this stream from the forests in the
+neighbourhood of Maria-Zell, in the Steyermark, near which it takes its
+rise. It is customary in Germany to place one of these gratings at the
+mouth of any tributary stream, or in the bed of any river where a line
+of demarcation is drawn naturally or artificially between two kingdoms,
+two provinces or even two parishes. So that the branches and trunks of
+trees blown down by high winds, and swept away by inundations into the
+current, should not be carried beyond the frontiers or boundaries of
+the state or property to which they belong, and which derives from them
+no inconsiderable portion of its revenue.</p>
+
+<p>The timber, also, regularly felled by the wood-cutters, is thrown
+thus carelessly on the mountain-streams of Germany, and floats down to
+the Rechen or Grate, where it is afterwards collected by its owners,
+who are thus saved the trouble and expense of land carriage; and the
+drifting property is
+<span class="pagenum">230</span>
+ protected from
+plunder by the severity of the laws relating to it.</p>
+
+<p>Before us now lay the two Pechlarns; Great Pechlarn on the right,
+and Little Pechlarn on the left bank. At the first we determined to
+breakfast, were it only to feast where the fair Chrimhilt had feasted,
+in</p>
+
+<p class="center">“Die Burg zu Bechelaren.”</p>
+
+<p>No relics of the “Burg” itself, however, exist; but an old gateway,
+some round towers, and here and there a few feet of crumbling wall,
+attest the early grandeur of the place, and fancy fills up the chasms
+which time has made, with court and keep, buttress and battlement,
+crowded with fair damsels and fierce soldiery, “all, all abroad to
+gaze” at the advancing pageant.</p>
+
+<p>There, round that point of land, comes the royal fleet, the banners
+of Hungary, Burgundy, Bavaria, Pechlarn, and Passau, flinging their
+blazoned glories on the breeze, and proudly announcing to the admiring
+burghers the rich freight of rank and beauty which the swelling Danube
+is wafting to their port. Five hundred “Kemps of Hungary,” their bright
+hauberks glittering in the sun,
+<span class="pagenum">231</span>
+ crowd
+the decks of the first vessels. On the prow of the foremost stands the
+valiant Markgraf, Rudiger of Pechlarn, than whom</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “A truer soldier never<br>
+    &nbsp;Was in this world yborn,
+    <a id="FNank_69" href="#FN_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a>”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>bending eagerly forward to distinguish, amongst the bevy of
+beauties at “the open windows<a id="FNank_70" href="#FN_70"
+class="fnanchor">[70]</a>” of the castle, the fair forms of his
+beloved wife and daughter. Beneath the rich canopy that shades the
+deck of yonder bark, with the gilded oars, now doubling the little
+promontory, sits the peerless bride of the mighty Etzel, but she hears
+not the shout of welcome that rises on the shore; she marks not the
+gay multitudes that crowd to pay her homage. Her brow is clouded, her
+ruby lip quivers, tears like liquid diamonds tremble upon the long dark
+silken lashes of her downcast eyes; the form of the noble Siegfried
+is constantly before her. She hears but the voice of her murdered
+champion calling for vengeance; she sees but the ghastly wound which
+<span class="pagenum">232</span>
+ treachery dealt, bleeding afresh at
+the approach of the dark and deadly Haghen. Yet, passing beautiful is
+she even in sorrow, and still warrants the glowing description of the
+old minnesænger, Henry of Ofterdingen. <a id="FNank_71" href="#FN_71"
+class="fnanchor">[71]</a> </p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“From out her broidered
+  garments</span><br>
+  Full many a jewel shone,<br>
+  The rosy red bloomed sweetly<br>
+  Her lovely cheek upon.<br>
+  He who would in fancy<br>
+  Paint that lady fair,<br>
+  In this world has never<br>
+  Seen such beauty rare.<br><br>
+  As the moon outshineth<br>
+  Every twinkling star,<br>
+  Shedding careless splendour<br>
+  From out her cloudy car;<br>
+  So, before her maidens,<br>
+  Stood that lady bright,<br>
+  And higher swelled the spirit<br>
+  Of every gazing knight. <a id="FNank_72" href="#FN_72"
+  class="fnanchor">[72]</a>”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>By her side stands a venerable figure, clad in the gorgeous and
+sacred vestments of his office. The flowing stole of embroidered silk,
+the pallium of cloth of gold, the jewelled mitre, the “gilt shoon,” and
+the massive but richly wrought cross and crosier, borne by two of his
+attendants, distinguish
+<span class="pagenum">233</span>
+ him as the
+holy Pilgerin, the wealthy and powerful Bishop of Passau, uncle to the
+queen, and related also to the noble Rudiger. The pale youth near him,
+his hands reverently crossed upon his bosom, is his clerk Conrad, who
+afterwards assisted him to write, in “the Latin tongue,” the adventures
+of the Nibelungen. On the other hand of the lovely Chrimhilt, stands
+the faithful Duke Eckewart, who has sworn to escort his liege lady
+to Hungary; and the remainder of the flotilla bears the five hundred
+chosen Knights of Burgundy, who follow his standard. The vision is
+over, the airy castle has vanished—</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“The knights are dust,
+  </span><br>
+  Their good swords are rust,<br>
+  Their souls are with the saints we trust.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>And a rude and solitary boat is rocking under the windows of a poor
+white-washed wirthshaus, which, with half a dozen humble cottages and
+some mouldering walls, now marks the site of the once strong and gay
+burg of Pechlarn!</p>
+
+<p>Rudiger of Pechlarn, as well as his kinsman, the Bishop of Passau,
+is an historical personage. He was Count of the frontier <span
+class="pagenum">234</span> during the reign of Arnulph, Duke of
+Bavaria, and died in 916. His son, Markgraf Rudiger II., died in 943,
+and with him the direct male line became extinct. The little town of
+Pechlarn is now principally inhabited by potters.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Pechlarn, the river keeps still widening, till, on the left
+bank, rises the fine old Castle of Weideneck, which receives its name
+from a neighbouring rivulet, and is supposed to have been built by
+the elder Rudiger of Pechlarn. The Emperor Frederick IV., and the
+famous Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, both beleaguered Weideneck.
+The former twice won and lost it. But the eye has scarcely caught
+sight of Weideneck, before it is attracted by the distant domes of
+the magnificent Convent of Mölk, that appear over the willows of an
+island, in the centre of the river. Gradually, the entire façade of the
+convent, upon its granite rock, and the little market-town beneath it,
+glide from behind the island, and complete one of the most imposing and
+beautiful pictures upon the river. The present splendid structure was
+built in 1720-32, by an architect,
+<span class="pagenum">235</span>
+
+named Prandauer; but the rock on which it stands, once supported, not
+only a more ancient convent, but also a Roman fortress. Under the name
+of Medilke, it appears in the Nibelungen-lied,</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“At Medilke were the goblets
+  </span><br>Of costly gold, filled high,<br>
+  And the wine went gaily round<br>
+  Mid that noble company.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>But the authentic history of Mölk commences apparently in the
+sixteenth century, when the Markgraf Leopold I., surnamed the
+Illustrious, made it his residence after wresting it from the power
+of the Hungarians. This valiant prince founded here a kloster, and
+was here interred after his murder at Wurzburg, as were likewise
+his wife, Richarde, his sons Henry and Albrecht, and their wives,
+Mechthilde and Frowiza, Adelheid, Countess of Leopold the Strong, the
+Margraf Ernest III., surnamed the Valiant, and his lady Schwanehild,
+Leopold III., surnamed the Handsome, and many other noble Austrian
+and Bavarian knights and ladies. Saint Colomanus, or Saint Colman,
+descended, according to the story, from the early Kings <span
+class="pagenum">236</span> of Scotland, was also buried at Mölk.
+This saint, travelling through Austria to Jerusalem, was seized, at
+Stockerau, by some rebellious peasants, A.D. 1012, who, taking him for
+a spy, hung him upon a tree, where his body remained a year and a half
+without putrefaction, and afterwards worked many miracles! Leopold
+III., in the year 1089, established some Benedictines from Lambach in
+this Kloster; and his son, Leopold IV., who was born here in 1073, and
+here celebrated his marriage with Agnes, daughter of the Emperor Henry
+IV., and widow of Frederick of Hohenstaufen, gave up his palace to
+them, and retired to the Khalenberg, near Vienna. The Kloster of Mölk
+soon became proverbial for its wealth, and its superior was the Primate
+of Lower Austria. In 1619, the insurgents of Upper Austria besieged
+Mölk for upwards of a month, as did also the Turks in 1684. Napoleon
+had his headquarters here in 1805, and again in 1809; and a mark is
+shown upon the floor of one of the apartments in the Kloster, which
+he is said to have made in a passion. While a few monks inhabit this
+splendid palace,
+<span class="pagenum">237</span>
+ their sovereign, one
+of the most powerful monarchs in Europe, passes a considerable portion
+of his time in an humble wooden building, upon the opposite bank of
+the Danube. At Lubereck, a little below the Castle of Weideneck,
+beside a romantic waterfall, is a small edifice, built entirely of
+wood, and formerly the country residence of the Baron von Führenberg,
+postmaster of Mölk. Between this place and Bösenbeug, Francis I.
+divides nearly all the hours which, during summer, he snatches from the
+cares of empire. In his plain, domestic habits, and in the kindness
+and affability with which, in such moments of relaxation, he listens
+or chats to his humble neighbours, the present Sovereign of Austria
+greatly resembles our own late venerable monarch, King George III.,
+and, like him, has compelled his bitterest political enemies to
+acknowledge that, in all the private virtues of life, as a husband, a
+father, and a master, he is an example, not only to his own subjects,
+but to mankind.</p>
+
+<p>On the left bank, beyond Lubereck, is the markt of Emmersdorf, at
+the point of a narrow neck of land, round which the Danube <span
+class="pagenum">238</span> wheels to the north-east, and enters the
+romantic valley of the Wachau. Emmersdorf, like so many other places
+on the Danube, was formerly the seat of some powerful robbers, who
+levied contributions upon the passing vessels, and blotted the page of
+history with such bloody deeds that, to use the expression of a modern
+German writer, the hand of a common executioner alone could steadily
+transcribe them. At the mouth of the Bielach, a little river that
+empties itself into the Danube nearly facing Emmersdorf, and over which
+there is a ferry, the celebrated district called the Wachau commences,
+and extends itself as far as the castle of Dürrenstein, some say as
+far as Mautern and Krems. The view from this point, either looking up
+or down the river, is exceedingly beautiful. The western prospect is
+enriched with the castle of Weideneck, the Palace-convent and markt
+of Mölk, and the noble mountains of Upper Austria, which here you
+gaze on for the last time. Turning and looking into the mouth of the
+yawning gorge, the eye is first attracted by the castle and kloster of
+Schönbühel, picturesquely situated
+<span class="pagenum">239</span>
+
+on the brink of the precipitous right bank, behind which rise some
+gigantic mountains. On the left, a crescent of bold craggy hills,
+towering one over the other, checks the northerly inclination of the
+mighty flood, and bends it again eastward, while upon one of them the
+fine ruin of Aggstein glimmers white in the distance.</p>
+
+<p>Charlemagne, in the year 803, gave the whole valley of the Wachau
+(in terra Avarorum) from the Bielach as far as Tuln, Zeizelmauer
+and Perschling, (Tulna, Zysenmurus et Bierstlinga,) to the Bishop
+of Passau, and it belonged to Bavaria, at least “in spiritualibus,”
+till 1805. Schloss Schönbühel stands, as I have before said, at the
+entrance to the valley, upon a wall of granite, from which its own
+walls are scarcely distinguishable. Schultes calls it a ruin, but
+to me it had the appearance of an inhabited château in excellent
+repair. It is a singular-looking building, with a tall, square, but
+narrow tower, shooting up from the centre of its western front, more
+like a chimney than a turret. Its situation, however, is exceedingly
+fine and commanding, and it has the reputation of being <span
+class="pagenum">240</span> haunted by no less a spirit than Lucifer
+himself, a circumstance which would alone render it interesting to the
+romantic tourist. A little beyond it stands an old chapel or kloster,
+belonging to the Schloss. In the fourteenth century this place belonged
+to the family of Starrhemberg. Having now fairly entered the valley,
+we perceived the markt of Aggsbach on the left bank, and facing it,
+Klein, or little Aggsbach. In a chasm behind the latter, Haderich von
+Meissau, the Kuenringer and marshal of Lower Austria, founded, in 1386,
+a convent for thirteen Carthusian Monks, which was suppressed by Joseph
+II. in 1782; and on the mountain top, a little beyond the former,
+stand the before-mentioned ruins of the Castle of Aggstein. There is
+a tradition respecting this castle, of a peculiarly German cast, and
+which would work up well in “a tale of terror.” It is said that it was
+anciently the hold of a robber knight named Schrekenwald, who, after
+seizing and plundering the unfortunate travellers on the Danube, thrust
+his wretched captives through an iron door over the rocks into a deep
+abyss behind the castle, which
+<span class="pagenum">241</span>
+ he
+called his “Little Rose Garden,” and from which (even if by a miracle
+they were not dashed to pieces in their fall) the chance of escape
+was next to impossible. The tradition is preserved in an Austrian
+proverb; when any one is in such a strait as to preclude all hope of
+extrication, he is said to be “in Schreckenwald’s Rose-garden.” The
+story, however, goes on to say, that, by some extraordinary chance, one
+of his intended victims did effect his escape, and with the help of his
+friends, who returned with him in arms, surprised, made prisoner, and
+hung the monster.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1232, Hadmar, the Kuenringer, who was also lord of
+Dürrenstein, possessed this castle, and ravaged, in company with
+his brother Heinrich von Weitra, the whole country as far as Stein
+and Krems. The trembling inhabitants called them “the Hounds,” and
+Frederick, the last of the Babenbergers, in vain endeavoured to subdue
+and destroy them. A merchant, named Rudiger, at length suggested a
+ruse de guerre to the Emperor. “I will freight,” said he, “a vessel
+at Regensburg, laden with the most costly merchandise: the <span
+class="pagenum">242</span> tidings will soon reach the robbers at
+Aggstein. Thirty stout knights shall lie concealed in the vessel, and
+when Hadmar rushes down from his castle, and boards us with a few of
+his vassals, thinking to plunder some peaceable merchants, the knights
+shall rush out upon and overpower him, while I push off from the
+shore.” The plan was adopted, and succeeded. The vessel was freighted
+at Regensburg, and stopped at Aggstein. Hadmar flung himself into the
+snare set for him, and Rudiger and his people, rowing off at the same
+moment, brought the robber prisoner to the feet of Frederick.</p>
+
+<p>In 1277, Luitold Kuenring possessed the castles of Aggstein and
+Dürrenstein, but lost them both, with many others, in rebellion against
+Albert I., and was banished the country in 1291. From that period its
+history is a mere record of bargains and sales, which terminates with
+its purchase by a Count of Beroldingen, in 1819.</p>
+
+<p>The castle is finely situated on the crest of a conical hill, and
+the path up to it lies through a thick forest which affords a pleasing
+shelter to the noontide traveller,
+<span class="pagenum">243</span>
+
+whom curiosity leads to inspect the ruins. The keys are kept in the
+little wirthshaus on the bank below it. Great part of the castle is in
+tolerable preservation, at least as far as regards the bare walls; and
+the date over the gateway, if Prof. Schultes have rightly copied it,
+(for I did not see it myself,) appears to me rather apocryphal. The
+inscription runs thus:—</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“Das Purkstall hat ange</span><br>
+  vangen tze pauen her Jo<br>
+  rig der Schektvon w<br>
+  ald der nachten montag<br>
+  nach unser Frauventag<br>
+  nativitatis, da von Crist<br>
+  gpurd waren ergangen<br>
+  <span class="allsmcap">MCCXXVIII</span> Jar.
+  <a id="FNank_73" href="#FN_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a>”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Below Schwallenbach, a small markt on the left bank, a rude mass of
+barren crags
+<span class="pagenum">244</span>
+ has received the name of
+the Teufel’s mauer (Devil’s wall.) This busy “old gentleman” is said
+to have taken it into his head to block up the Danube at this spot,
+but, through some special intervention of Providence, a sudden stop was
+put to the infernal masonry. An echo slumbers here, which, waked by a
+pistol-shot, resents the impertinence in a voice of thunder. Having
+passed the villages of Ober or Schloss-Arnsdorf, and Mitter-Arnsdorf,
+we at length arrived before the markt and castle of Spitz, the towers
+of which had been visible from Schwallenbach. Both town and castle
+belonged anciently to Bavaria, and they have been in turn the property
+of most of the ecclesiastical and lay robbers we have already heard
+so much of—the bishops of Passau and Salzburg, the monks of Nieder
+Altaich, the Margraves Burkhard and Leopold, Hansen the Kapeller,
+Hadmar the Kuenringer, etc. etc. In 1805, Marshal Mortier, who had
+narrowly escaped destruction near Dürrenstein, was glad to cross the
+Danube at this place by means of a bridge of boats. The old castle
+above the little
+<span class="pagenum">245</span>
+ markt is called the
+Hinterhaus, and is one of the most picturesque ruins on the river. The
+rock it stands upon is of an extraordinary form, black, rugged, and
+bare, a gigantic pedestal, worthy of supporting this fine monument of
+the middle ages. The church and village of St. Michel, with their old
+round towers and crumbling walls, are the next interesting objects. The
+precipices upon both banks now assume the most fantastic forms. The
+vine has here again made its appearance. Its light green is beautifully
+contrasted with the dark firs and pines, and the white barren peaks
+that Nature seems to have fashioned in her most eccentric moods.</p>
+
+<p>As the valley narrows, the rocks rise higher and higher, and the
+wild scenery of the Schlägen is for the last time repeated. This savage
+glen has long been considered by the peasantry of the neighbourhood
+as the haunt of witches and evil spirits; and about thirty years
+ago a poor little old woman, who was feeding her goat upon one of
+these precipices, was absolutely shot with a glass bullet, for a
+wetter-hexe (weather-witch,) a violent thunder-storm which <span
+class="pagenum">246</span> had unfortunately arisen being “charged to
+her account,” by the superstitious marksman. On emerging from this
+gorge—the crowning glory of the romantic scene—the magnificent ruin of
+Dürrenstein presents itself on its stupendous rock. Language cannot
+do justice to the sublimity of this view, which might task the united
+pencils of a Claude and a Salvator Rosa. Independently of its beauty
+and grandeur, what recollections crowd upon the mind, as the splendid
+picture dawns upon the sight,—Richard Cœur de Lion!—Six hundred years
+have past, and the name is still a spell-word to conjure up all the
+brightest and noblest visions of the age of chivalry. What glorious
+phantoms rise at the sound! Saladin—the great, the valiant, the
+generous Saladin, again wheels at the head of his Cavalry—Frederick
+Barbarossa, the conqueror of Iconium—the brave but politic Philip of
+France—the gallant but unfortunate Marquis of Montferrat! The whole
+host of red-cross warriors—the knights of the Temple and St. John—start
+again into existence from their graves in the Syrian Deserts, and
+their tombs in Christian Europe,
+<span class="pagenum">247</span>
+
+where still their recumbent effigies grasp the sword in stone. The
+Lion-hearted Plantagenet once more flourishes with a giant’s strength;
+the tremendous battle-axe, whereon “were twenty pounds of steel<a
+id="FNank_74" href="#FN_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a>,” around the
+nodding broom-plant in his cylindrical helmet, while his implacable
+foe, Leopold of Austria, leans frowning on his azure shield; his
+surcoat of cloth of silver “dabbled in blood,” that terrible token of
+his valour at Ptolemais, which is to this day the blazon of his ancient
+house<a id="FNank_75" href="#FN_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a>. Yonder
+walls have echoed to the clank of the fetters with which his unknightly
+vengeance loaded Richard of England—to the minstrel-moan of “the Lord
+of Oc and No<a id="FNank_76" href="#FN_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a>,”
+and (for who can coldly
+<span class="pagenum">248</span>
+ pause to
+separate such romantic facts from the romance they have inspired) to
+the lay of the faithful Blondel, which, wafted by the pitying winds to
+his Royal Master’s ear, soothed his captivity, and brightened his hopes
+of freedom. Many are the castles on the banks of the Danube pointed
+out to the traveller as the prison of Cœur de Lion. Aggstein, which
+we have not long passed, Greifenstein, which we are approaching, both
+assert a similar claim to our interest, our veneration; and it has
+been not improbably conjectured, that Richard was in turn the resident
+of each, being secretly removed from fortress to fortress, by his
+subtle and malignant captor, in order to baffle the researches of his
+friends and followers. Notwithstanding this dispute, Dürrenstein has by
+general consent, and long tradition, been established as the principal
+place of his confinement; and no one who, with that impression, has
+gazed upon its majestic ruins, would thank the sceptic who should
+endeavour to disturb his belief. They stand upon a colossal rock,
+which rising from a promontory picturesquely terminated by the little
+town of Dürrenstein, is
+<span class="pagenum">249</span>
+ singularly
+ribbed from top to bottom by a rugged mass of granite indented like a
+saw. On each side of this natural barrier, a strip of low wall, with
+small towers at equal distances, straggles down the rock, which, thus
+divided, is here and there cut towards its base into cross terraces
+planted with vines, and in the ruder parts left bare, or patched with
+lichens and shrubs of various descriptions. On its naked and conical
+crest, as though a piece of the crag itself, rises the keep of the
+castle, square, with four square towers at its angles, and not unlike
+the fine ruin at Rochester. Had the accomplished Hemans beheld the
+scene, her muse could scarcely have better described it.</p>
+
+<div class="cc">
+  <p>“He hath reached a mountain hung with vine,</p>
+  <p class="center">*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *</p>
+  <p>
+  The feudal towers that crest its height<br>
+  Frown in unconquerable might;<br>
+  Dark is their aspect of sullen state,<br>
+  No helmet hangs o’er the massy gate,<br>
+  To bid the wearied pilgrim rest,<br>
+  At the chieftain’s board a welcome guest;<br>
+  Vainly rich evening’s parting smile<br>
+  Would chase the gloom of the haughty pile,<br>
+  That midst bright sunshine lowers on high,<br>
+  Like a thunder-cloud in a summer sky.
+  <span class="pagenum">250</span>
+  </p>
+  <p class="center">*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *</p>
+  <p>
+  Lingering he gazed—the rocks around<br>
+  Sublime in savage grandeur frowned;<br>
+  Proud guardians of the regal flood,<br>
+  In giant strength the mountains stood;<br>
+  By torrents cleft, by tempests riven,<br>
+  Yet mingling still with the calm blue heaven
+  <a id="FNank_77" href="#FN_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a>.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The celebrated Denon had a sketch made of this castle and rock,
+and sent to Paris expressly for a scene in Gretry’s well-known opera,
+“Richard Cœur de Lion.”</p>
+
+<p>The circumstances of Richard’s quarrel with the Duke of Austria,
+and his subsequent arrest and captivity, are too well known to require
+insertion here; but, in the Chronicon Zwetlense, t. 1, s. 531, it
+is expressly stated that Richard was seized at Erpuch, near Vienna,
+(this Erpuch being the present Erdberg, one of the largest of its
+many suburbs,) and given, by Leopold, into the custody of Hadmar,
+the Kuenringer at Tyernstain (Dürrenstein). The old chronicler,
+Haselbach, also says that
+<span class="pagenum">251</span>
+ Richard
+came to Vienna as a pilgrim, in a company of cooks, and acted as
+turnspit one evening in the kitchen of the Duke of Austria. But a
+cook, recognizing his features, informed Leopold, who immediately
+commanded Richard to be brought before him, and addressed him in these
+words, “Domine Rex Anglorum, nimis nobilis estis, ut sitis assator in
+coquina ducis;” after which he delivered him into “Honesta Custodia.”
+According to the Chronicon Conradi Cœnobitæ Schyrensis, Richard, after
+suffering shipwreck at Aquileia, was betrayed to Leopold by the Duke
+of Carinthia. The story of his having betrayed himself, in his passage
+through Austria, by his expenses and liberalities, is, however, the
+most probable, as well as the best authenticated.</p>
+
+<p>Dürrenstein is first mentioned about the year 1170, when, in some
+deeds, are found the names of Göttschalk and Regenbert von Tirnstain.
+In 1192, the year in which Richard was made prisoner, the castle is
+known to have belonged to Hadmar, the Kuenringer, who was likewise
+the possessor of Aggstein; and, in 1231, it was taken, <span
+class="pagenum">252</span> and partially destroyed by Frederick, the
+last of the Babenbergers. No events of consequence are recorded to have
+taken place in it from that time to the year 1645, when the Swedes
+are supposed to have reduced it to its present ruinous condition. The
+little town at its foot, with its handsome church<a id="FNank_78"
+href="#FN_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>, is prettily situated; and
+when, in 1741, a party of French and Bavarian cavalry forded the
+Danube, in hopes to surprise it, the citizens hit upon a plan as novel
+as ingenious. They barred up their gates as well as they could, laid
+logs of firewood on the walls, in imitation of cannon, chalked the
+rims of their hats, to give them the appearance of being bound with
+white lace, according to the uniform of their troops at that time, and
+parading up and down the ramparts with much drumming and bustle, taking
+care that their hats only should be seen above the walls, absolutely
+induced the enemy to believe that the place was strongly garrisoned;
+and they accordingly wheeled to
+<span class="pagenum">253</span>
+ the
+right about without firing a shot, to the infinite joy and amusement of
+the cunning inhabitants, who certainly well deserved their escape.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th of November, 1805, the defiles behind Dürrenstein were
+the scene of a murderous conflict between the French, under Mortier
+and Dupont, and the Russians, under Doctorof and the Austrian general,
+Schmidt. Mortier, who had instructions from Napoleon to march upon
+Krems, and was anxious to prevent the Russians passing into Moravia,
+hurried forwards with Gazan’s division, and a brigade of dragoons,
+being followed, at some distance, by Dupont’s division, and some Dutch
+regiments. Below Dürrenstein, he encountered the advance guard of
+Miloradowich, which he drove back to the gates of Stein, making a few
+prisoners: but this slight success had nearly led to his ruin, for, at
+the same instant, another strong corps of Russians, led by Generals
+Schmidt and Doctorof, descended the mountains in his rear; and General
+Essen, having reinforced Miloradowich, and thrown himself before
+Loiben, the French were between
+<span class="pagenum">254</span>
+ two
+fires. Mortier had no remedy but to cut his way, if possible, through
+the column in his rear, and so effect a junction with Dupont, to whom
+he had, fortunately for himself, sent orders to quicken his march.
+Major Henriod, at the head of the 100th regiment, charged the Russians,
+and a horrible carnage ensued in the narrow defiles, crowded with
+infuriated soldiery. Two pieces of artillery, which Mortier had with
+him, decided the issue of the combat in his favour, his adversaries
+being destitute of cannon. The brave Austrian, Schmidt, fell at the
+first discharge; and Doctorof, endeavouring to withdraw his troops
+from the ravine, was suddenly attacked, in the rear, by the division
+of Dupont, and thus found himself, in his turn, between two fires.
+With much difficulty he effected his retreat over the mountain he had
+just descended; and the desperate troops of Mortier rushing into the
+defile, as they imagined, on the bayonets of their enemies, found
+themselves, before they were aware, in the arms of their friends and
+countrymen. From twelve to fifteen hundred men were lost on each
+side, and the allies received a
+<span class="pagenum">255</span>
+
+terrible blow in the death of General Schmidt, the friend and companion
+in arms of the Archduke Charles<a id="FNank_79" href="#FN_79"
+class="fnanchor">[79]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Below Dürrenstein, the river widens, and a new and cheerful prospect
+dawns upon the sight. Three small towns, Stein, Mautern, and Krems, the
+two first connected by a bridge, about six hundred and thirty paces
+long, across the Danube, present themselves at once to the eye; and
+over Mautern, on the right bank, upon a finely-wooded mountain, rise
+the towers and cupolas of Kloster Göttweih.</p>
+
+<p>Mautern was known as early as the time of Charlemagne, and in
+898 was called the town of Mutarum, and fortified by Isanrich, the
+son of the Markgraf Arbo, when he rose against the Emperor Arnulf.
+Arnulf, though in the last stage of illness, laid seige to Mautern,
+and took it in the following year, a few months before his death;
+but Isanrich succeeded in eluding his conqueror, and sought refuge
+in Moravia. Rudolph of Hapsburg gave the same rights and privileges
+to Mautern as
+<span class="pagenum">256</span>
+ were enjoyed by
+Stein and Krems in reward for its early declaration in his favour.
+In 1347, the burghers, having joined their neighbours of Krems in a
+cruel persecution of the Jews, were severely punished by Albert II.,
+and their Lord, the Bishop of Passau, whose <i>Christian</i> zeal had
+been rather exuberant, was condemned to pay a fine to the Duke of
+six hundred pounds. Matthias Corvinus, the gallant King of Hungary,
+gained a victory here over the Austrians in 1484. In 1805, the Russians
+under Kutusof retreated before Murat, Lannes, and Soult, over the
+bridge at Mautern, and immediately burnt it. It was destroyed again by
+the Austrian Field-marshal Hiller in 1809, on the second advance of
+Napoleon to Vienna. With the exception of the old gate, through which
+the road leads to St. Pölten and Göttweih, little remains to vouch
+for the antiquity of the town; and the same may be said of Stein,
+under the walls of which we landed,—the gate facing the water, and the
+ruins of some old building near the bridge, being all the relics that
+“Goth and Time and Turk have spared”—I might add, Hungarian and <span
+class="pagenum">257</span> Swede, as Matthias Corvinus stormed it in
+1486, and Torstenson in 1645. So exasperated was the latter by the
+opposition he met with, that when he at length entered the place, he
+took most sanguinary vengeance upon the brave citizens. Stein is little
+more than one long, rambling street, over the vile flints of which, as
+we entered it, half a dozen poor old women, nearly all upon crutches,
+were hobbling in ludicrous haste after a dirty little ragamuffin, who,
+bearing the banner of some Saint, very like a red pocket handkerchief,
+appeared to enjoy the fruitless attempts of the unfortunate cripples to
+keep pace with him. On the young rascal went, at a sort of hand gallop,
+while they, like Johnson’s “Panting Time,”</p>
+
+<p class="center">“Toiled after him in vain.” </p>
+
+<p>Quitting Stein at the eastern extremity of this long street, a
+walk of about ten minutes conducts you through a pretty promenade,
+planted with trees, and called the little Präter, to the gates of
+Krems, the most considerable of these three small towns. It is first
+mentioned in the reign of Otto III. In the year 1347, its kennels
+<span class="pagenum">258</span>
+ ran with Hebrew blood. It was
+pretended that the Jews had poisoned the wells of the town; and as
+any report, however ridiculous, provided it afforded a pretext to
+insult and plunder that unfortunate people, was eagerly and implicitly
+believed by the brutal populace, an immediate slaughter took place of
+all who refused to acknowledge the divinity of Christ. Many wealthy
+Israelites being aware of the real motive of their persecutors,
+made their despair minister to their vengeance, and barring up
+themselves, their family, and their riches together, set fire to the
+building, and perished exultingly in the flames that anticipated the
+spoiler. The horrid frenzy extended to Stein, Mautern, and many other
+places in the vicinity, and was only allayed by the arrival of the
+brave Erbschenk von Meissau who, by command of Albert II., hurried
+with a considerable force into the disturbed districts. Krems and
+Stein were heavily mulcted, and the neighbouring villages, Loiben,
+Strassing, Rattendorf and Weinzierl, plundered by the soldiery of
+the blood-stained booty they had acquired. In the fifteenth century,
+Krems was twice besieged
+<span class="pagenum">259</span>
+ by Matthias
+Corvinus, the last time successfully. On the invasion of Austria by the
+Bohemian Protestants in 1619, a corps of the insurgents under their
+Colonel, Carpizan, having cut off the garrison of Krems, which had
+made a desperate sally from the town, immediately advanced to scale
+the now defenceless walls; but the women with one consent, seizing
+the first weapons they could find, rushed to the ramparts, and fought
+with such steady bravery, that the enemy were at length obliged to
+abandon the attempt. To this memorable achievement Ferdinand II. was
+in great measure indebted for the preservation of his empire; for
+Krems being thus relieved, General Dampierre detached a body of five
+hundred horse to Vienna, at that time closely invested by Count Thurn.
+The Emperor, reduced to the last extremity, the walls of his palace
+battered by the Bohemian cannon, and echoing the reproachful shouts
+of his disaffected subjects, had resigned himself to his fate, when
+the sudden blast of a trumpet announced the arrival of succour. The
+little squadron of horse having secretly descended the Danube, and
+entered the
+<span class="pagenum">260</span>
+ capital by the only gate
+unguarded by the enemy, was magnified into a mighty host by the fears
+of the malcontents, who dispersed in every direction. The friends of
+the Emperor took courage, six hundred students flew to arms; their
+example was followed by fifteen hundred citizens; additional succours
+arrived, and in a few hours all appearance of danger and discontent had
+subsided.</p>
+
+<p>Krems is the seat of what is termed in Austria a kreis-amtes, or
+council, having the government of one of the circles of the empire.
+Its jurisdiction extends over a fourth of Lower Austria, called
+the Viertel, or quarter of Ober-Manhardsberg. The principal public
+buildings are the Pfarrekirche, built in 1464, the church of St.
+Katharine, remarkable as having been originally a residence of the
+knights-templars, a theatre, a gymnasium, and a cassino. The Austrian
+epicure is indebted to Krems for excellent mustard, and the sportsman
+for superior gunpowder; upwards of forty thousand florins worth of
+the former article is yearly made and sold in this town. The mustard
+is sent in its natural state from
+<span class="pagenum">261</span>
+
+Znaym, Rausenbruck, and various other parts of Moravia, and boiled
+at Krems with unfermented wine, which gives it its peculiar flavour.
+In a vineyard near Krems was formerly a well, the water of which was
+believed a sovereign specific for all disorders. The neighbouring
+capuchins of Und, who were the respectable vouchers for its efficacy,
+sold the pure element at a so large a price, that the Emperor
+Maximilian I. suddenly discovered the necessity for enacting a law,
+whereby the revenue arising from this traffic was transferred from
+the coffers of the church into those of the state, which, at the
+commencement of his reign, were not so likely to overflow from the
+addition.</p>
+
+<p>Wandering beneath the walls of Krems and Stein, we gazed with
+delight upon the beautifully situated monastery of Göttweih. A short
+distance from the right bank behind Mautern, this immense building
+stretched itself along the brow of a lofty, isolated mountain, clothed
+with waving woods, in the rich liveries of autumn, its countless
+windows splendidly illuminated by the descending sun. It <span
+class="pagenum">262</span> dates no further back than the commencement
+of the eighteenth century, when it was built upon the site of an
+ancient kloster, originally founded by Altmann, Bishop of Passau,
+in 1083. There is a spring shown at the foot of the mountain, where
+this turbulent prelate, then only a student in theology, entered
+into a compact with Adalbert, afterwards Bishop of Wurzburg, and
+Gebhard, afterwards Bishop of Salzburg, by which they bound themselves
+to rise against the Emperor Henry IV., so soon as they should be
+appointed to their several sees!—an extraordinary agreement which they
+religiously fulfilled; and having succeeded in stirring up his own son
+to rebellion, compelled the unfortunate monarch, after a desperate
+struggle, to resign his crown at Ratisbon. Altmann, however, was not
+permitted to witness the triumph of his party; the enraged Emperor
+deprived him of his bishopric in 1085, and he died six years afterwards
+in exile at Zieselmauer.</p>
+
+<p>Below Stein the Danube forms another archipelago, and during
+the remainder of a lovely evening, we glided between the <span
+class="pagenum">263</span> thickly-wooded islands, catching at long
+intervals a momentary glimpse of the red-tipped steeple of one of the
+many insignificant villages which here line the main banks of the
+river, now as flat and uninteresting as they were between Aschach and
+Ottensheim. The current at length leading us near the right bank,
+we passed the markt and ruin of Holenburg; the latter, during the
+fifteenth century, the stronghold of two redoubted pirates, named
+Frohnauer and Vettau,—Wagram, (not the famous Wagram, there are six
+Wagrams in Austria,) St. Georgen, where Ulrich, Bishop of Passau, in
+1109-12, built a celebrated kloster called St. Georg auf der Insel and
+Trasenmauer, at the mouth of the river Trasen, where, according to the
+Nibelungen-lied, Etzel,</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  “—— The King of Hunnen-land<br>
+  Had a Castle wide<br>
+  Y called Traisenmauer
+  <a id="FNank_80" href="#FN_80" class="fnanchor">
+  [80]</a>.”
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nearly facing the mouth of the Trasen, the little river Kamp
+discharges itself into the Danube, and, on doubling a small point of
+land, the village of Zwentendorf
+<span class="pagenum">264</span>
+
+appeared on the right bank, and the mountains of the Wiener-Wald,
+arising in the distance, announced the vicinity of the capital. It
+was impossible, however, to reach it that evening, and therefore
+making for the little town of Tuln that lay directly before us in a
+sort of bay, we landed under the walls of a spacious building, the
+mutilated colossal statues of saints, prelates, and monarchs, in front
+of which, bore testimony to its former grandeur, and groping our way
+through a narrow passage, emerged into the court-yard behind it,
+where stood the wretched auberge, in which our steersman informed us
+we must pass the night. To our great relief, however, a red-elbowed,
+yellow-haired, blue-stockinged, round-about <i>mädchen</i>, seizing
+a candle and a huge bunch of keys, recrossed the court with us
+towards the great building, and opening a postern door, which Mrs.
+Radcliffe would have worshipped, led the way up a winding staircase
+into a long gallery, hung with paintings of martyrdoms and miracles,
+fubsy virgins, and chubby cherubs, fat abbots, and fair nuns; and
+ushered us into a wilderness of a chamber, furnished with <span
+class="pagenum">265</span> one table and sixteen beds! The astonishment
+of our guide must be imagined when my companion requested yet another
+room. The idea of separate chambers never entering her head, she
+naturally enough supposed that sixteen beds would surely be sufficient
+for two persons. However, as there was no accounting for the whims
+of foreigners, and as no other travellers were likely to arrive, she
+found another apartment for my friend, containing nine beds, and, with
+a stare of amazement I shall not speedily forget, after furnishing us
+with some coffee and another candle, left us to sleep in any or all of
+our twenty-five beds, as we might eventually determine. On mentioning
+this circumstance afterwards to a Viennese, I was assured that, had a
+larger company arrived, the remaining fifteen beds in my chamber would
+have been unceremoniously occupied by men or women, as it might have
+happened; for, as he remarked to me, with the greatest coolness, “how
+would the poor people, who possess but two or three good rooms, be
+otherwise enabled to accommodate forty or fifty persons of both sexes,
+as they are
+<span class="pagenum">266</span>
+ frequently called upon
+to do?” Whether the building itself was the Nonnen-Kloster founded by
+Rudolph of Hapsburg, in gratitude for his victory over Ottocar, or
+the old Schloss, in which, every Monday, at midnight, the ghosts of
+a lady and her maid are in the habit of promenading<a id="FNank_81"
+href="#FN_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>, I am to this moment ignorant.
+If the latter, it being Thursday, the ghosts were not on duty. The
+Lady-Moon alone peeped through the long narrow casements; the murmur
+of the stream that ran rapidly beneath them, was the only sound that
+mingled with my dreams.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- C H A P T E R   VIII. -->
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">267</span>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="hang">
+<p>Tuln. — Langenlebern. — Greifenstein. — Story of Etelina. — Korneuburg. — The
+Bisamberg. — Kloster Neuburg. — Leopoldsberg, and the Khalenberg. — A glimpse
+of the capital. — Nusdorf. — Arrival at Vienna. — Bird’s-eye view and
+description of the environs from the Temple of Glory in the Brühl.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The chronicler Hagen says, that before Vienna was built, Tuln was
+the capital of Austria. There is no doubt it was a place of some
+consequence even in the time of the Romans. In the year 1813, a great
+number of silver coins of the reigns of Vespasian, Domitian, Nerva,
+and Trajan, were found in its neighbourhood. Attila is said to have
+experienced a defeat here, and upwards of forty thousand Huns in one
+battle to have found “the way to dusty death.” Its authentic history
+commences, however, in the reign of Charlemagne, who gave the place
+to Passau in 803. Under the successors of Charlemagne, Tuln was the
+residence of their Grenz-Grafen, or Counts of the Border; and in
+985, Henry II, Duke of Bavaria, held a Landtag or Assembly <span
+class="pagenum">268</span> of the States at Tuln, at which the Duke
+of Carinthia, the Pfalzgraf Berchtold, the Markgraf of Austria, and
+the Counts of Bavaria, appeared, and decided the claim of the Bishop
+of Passau to a linn-fishery in the neighbourhood. The Hungarians, in
+the winter of 1042, surprised and burnt the town, but were, by the
+Markgraves Albert and Gottfried, repulsed and pursued over the Leytna;
+and the whole tract of country between Khalenberg and that river, was
+wrested from them for ever. In 1592, Tuln became the asylum of those
+who fled before the triumphant Botskai, on whose head the minister of
+Achmet had placed the ancient diadem of the despots of Servia, and who,
+though he refused the proffered titles of King of Hungary and Prince
+of Transylvania, terrified the feeble Emperor Rodolph by planting the
+victorious standards of those revolted provinces within sight of the
+walls of Presburg.</p>
+
+<p>In 1683, the celebrated Sobieski joined, with his twenty-six
+thousand Poles, the troops collected here for the relief of Vienna,
+then invested by the Turks under Kara
+<span class="pagenum">269</span>
+
+Mustapha. The Emperor Leopold, driven to despair, wrote himself to the
+King of Poland, imploring him to hasten to his assistance, without
+waiting for his army. “My troops,” said he, “are now assembling. The
+bridge over the Danube is already constructed at Tuln, to afford you
+a passage. Place yourself at their head, however inferior in number;
+your name alone, so terrible to the enemy, will ensure a victory!”
+Sobieski, flattered by this entreaty, issued orders to his army to
+follow him; and, at the head of thirty-one thousand horse, traversed
+Silesia and Moravia with the rapidity of a Tartar horde, but, on his
+arrival at Tuln, found the bridge unfinished, and no troops, except a
+corps under the Duke of Lorraine. “Does the Emperor consider me as an
+adventurer?” exclaimed the disappointed monarch. “I quitted my army
+to command his. It is not for myself, but for him, that I fight.”
+Pacified, however, by the representations of the Duke of Lorraine,
+he awaited the arrival of his own army, which reached the Danube on
+the 5th of September, and the junction of the German succours was
+completed
+<span class="pagenum">270</span>
+ on the 7th. Eight thousand
+Swabians and Franconians, twenty thousand Saxons and Bavarians, led
+by their Electors, swelled the allied German army to the number of
+sixty thousand men. On the night of the 11th, the preconcerted signals
+revived the spirits of the garrison and citizens of Vienna; and,
+on the morning of the memorable 12th of September, they descried,
+with rapture, the Christian standards floating on the summit of the
+Khalenberg!</p>
+
+<p>To the romantic traveller, Tuln is endeared as the spot where the
+mighty Etzel met his matchless bride. Four and twenty princes were in
+the train of this powerful monarch, and twelve of the noblest received
+the priceless guerdon of a kiss from the lips of Chrimhilt. Lances were
+shivered, and harps were swept, in honour of the day. A thousand marks
+rewarded the royal minstrels, Swemmel and Werbel, and the largess, to
+herald and serf, was worthy the hand of the richest and most powerful
+sovereign</p>
+
+<p class="indent1">“From the Rhone unto the Rhine—from the Elbe unto the sea.”</p>
+
+<p>With spirits elevated by a morning of unequalled <span
+class="pagenum">271</span> beauty, and hearts throbbing with
+expectation, as every dip of the oar brought us nearer and nearer to
+the Austrian capital, the spires of which, we fondly imagined, would
+rise to our view at each new bend of the river, we floated down the
+broad and glittering stream, now clear of islands, and hurrying to
+bathe the craggy feet of the advancing Wiener-Wald.</p>
+
+<p>Passing the long straggling village of Langenlebern, or, as it is
+otherwise called, Ober and Unter Aigen, where there was formerly a
+considerable establishment of gold-washers, (the waves of the Danube,
+like those of Pactolus, rolling sands rich with grains of the precious
+metal,) the splendour of sunrise appeared to change the whole flood
+into molten ore, and realize the wildest dreams of those modern
+Chrysorrohæ<a id="FNank_82" href="#FN_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a>.
+Below Langenlebern, on the
+<span class="pagenum">272</span>
+ right
+bank, is the ancient village of Zeiselmauer, (supposed to be the
+Cetia of the Romans,) and celebrated as the birth-place of our old
+acquaintance, St. Florian. Here, in 1092, the rebel Bishop of Passau,
+Altmann, died, as I have before mentioned, in exile. We now rapidly
+approached the Riederberge, or mountains of the Wiener-Wald, as the
+forest-covered hills, that here overlook the Danube and Vienna, are
+indifferently called. Fragments of this rocky chain now lined the
+right bank of the river, which, for the first time since our leaving
+Ratisbon, surpassed the left in boldness and beauty. On one of these
+fragments rose the ruin of Greifenstein, one of the oldest castles
+in Austria, now the property of Prince Lichtenstein, who, having a
+great fancy for ruins, expends considerable sums in keeping up such
+as yet stand upon his estates, and in building new ruins, where
+there is a deficiency of old. In the Priel, or Brühl, near Vienna,
+are several of these modern antiques, on which the venerable pile
+of the old family castle of Lichtenstein looks down, with as much
+contempt, as a resuscitated Norman crusader would upon his <span
+class="pagenum">273</span> tinsel-clad theatrical representatives.
+Greifenstein was last ruined by the Swedes in 1645, and is one of the
+castles named as having been the prison of Richard Cœur de Lion; nay,
+they even show an iron cage here, in which he is said to have been
+cooped. The ruins are reported to be haunted by an old white woman, and
+a legion of</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Black spirits and white,<br>
+    &nbsp;Red spirits and grey,”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p> who do her awful bidding. This tradition has probably arisen
+from the circumstance of its last inhabitant having been an ancient
+gentlewoman, the Lady Bountiful of the neighbourhood, who devoted all
+her time to the cure of disorders, and was so generally successful
+in the treatment of her numerous patients, that she was at length
+suspected of possessing supernatural power. At her death, therefore,
+instead of canonizing her, as in duty bound, the ungrateful peasantry
+have converted the kind-hearted old lady, who was certainly “a spirit
+of health,” into “a goblin damned;” and they are less excusable, as
+the castle is not in want of such an attraction, the <i>terrein</i>
+<span class="pagenum">274</span>
+ being already occupied by as romantic
+a spectre as ever revisited “the glimpses of the moon, making night
+hideous!” The legend indeed attached to those venerable walls, is one
+of the most interesting on the Danube, and I cannot account for its
+omission by the diligent Schultes. Thus it runs:—</p>
+
+<p>As early as the eleventh century the Lords of Greifenstein were
+famed and feared throughout Germany. One of the first knights who
+bore that name, lost his lady soon after she had presented him with a
+daughter, who received the name of Etelina. The dying mother, painfully
+aware how little attention would be paid to the education of a female
+by a rude and reckless father, half knight, half freebooter, however
+fond he might be of his child, had recommended her infant, with her
+last breath, to the care of a kind and pious monk, the chaplain of
+the castle; and under his affectionate guidance, the pretty playful
+girl gradually ripened into the beautiful and accomplished woman. Sir
+Reinhard of Greifenstein, though stern, turbulent, and unlettered
+himself, was, nevertheless,
+<span class="pagenum">275</span>
+ sensible
+to the charms and intelligence of his daughter; and often as he parted
+her fair hair and kissed her ivory forehead, before he mounted the
+steed or entered the bark, that waited to bear him to the hunt or
+the battle, a feeling of which he was both proud and ashamed would
+moisten his eye and subdue a voice naturally harsh and grating, into
+a tone almost of tenderness. On his return, weary and sullen, from a
+fruitless chase or a baffled enterprise, the song of Etelina could
+banish the frown from his brow, when even the wine-cup had been thrust
+untasted away, and the favourite hound beaten for a mistimed gambol.
+So fair a flower, even in the solitary castle of Greifenstein, was
+not likely to bloom unknown or unsought. The fame of Etelina’s beauty
+spread throughout the land. Many a noble knight shouted her name as
+his bright sword flashed from the scabbard, and many a gentle squire
+fought less for his gilt spurs, than the smile of Etelina. The minstrel
+who sang her praises had aye the richest largess, and the little-foot
+page who could tell where she might be met with in the summer’s <span
+class="pagenum">276</span> twilight, clinging to the arm of the
+silver-haired chaplain, might reckon on a link of his master’s chain of
+gold for every word he uttered. But the powerful and the wealthy sighed
+at her feet in vain—she did not scorn them, for so harsh a feeling was
+unknown to the gentle Etelina. Nay, she even wept over the blighted
+hopes of some, whose fervent passion deserved a better fate; but her
+heart was no longer hers to give. She had fixed her affections upon the
+poor but noble Rudolph, and the lovers awaited impatiently some turn of
+fortune which would enable them to proclaim their attachment without
+fear of the anger and opposition of Sir Reinhard, who was considerably
+annoyed by Etelina’s rejection of many of the richest Counts and Barons
+of Germany.</p>
+
+<p>Business of importance summoned the old knight to the court of
+the Emperor. His absence, prolonged from month to month, afforded
+frequent opportunities of meeting to the lovers; and the venerable
+monk, on whom the entire charge of the castle and its inhabitants had
+devolved at Sir Reinhard’s departure, was one evening struck dumb
+<span class="pagenum">277</span>
+ with terror, by the confession which
+circumstances at length extorted from the lips of Etelina! Recovered
+from the first shock, however, his affection for his darling pupil
+seemed only increased, by the peril into which passion had plunged
+her. In the chapel of the castle, he secretly bestowed the nuptial
+benediction upon the imprudent pair, and counselled their immediate
+flight and concealment, till his prayers and tears should wring
+forgiveness and consent from Sir Reinhard, who was now on his return
+home, accompanied by a wealthy nobleman, on whom he had determined
+to bestow the hand of his daughter. Scarcely had Rudolph and Etelina
+reached the cavern in the neighbouring wilderness, selected for their
+retreat by the devoted old man, who had furnished them with provisions,
+a lamp and some oil, promising to supply them from time to time with
+the means of existence, as occasions should present themselves,
+when the rocks of the Danube rang with the well-known blast of Sir
+Reinhard’s trumpet, and a broad banner lazily unfolding itself to the
+morning breeze, displayed to the sight of the wakeful warden the two
+<span class="pagenum">278</span>
+ red griffins rampant in a field vert,
+the blazon of the far-feared Lords of Greifenstein<a id="FNank_83"
+href="#FN_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a>. In a few moments the old
+knight was galloping over the drawbridge, followed by his intended
+son-in-law.</p>
+
+<p>The clatter of their horses’ hoofs struck upon the heart of the
+conscious chaplain, as though the amimals themselves were trampling
+on his bosom; but he summoned up his resolution, and relying on his
+sacred character, met his master with a firm step and a calm eye, in
+the hall of the castle. Evading a direct answer to the first inquiry
+for Etelina, he gradually and cautiously informed Sir Reinhard of
+her love, her marriage, and her flight. Astonishment for a short
+space held the old warrior spell bound, but when his gathered fury
+at last found vent, the wrath of the whirlwind was less terrible. He
+seized the poor old monk by the throat, and upon his firm refusal
+to reveal the retreat of the culprits, dashed him to the earth, had
+him bound hand and foot, and flung into a pit beneath an iron <span
+class="pagenum">279</span> grating in the floor of the donjon or keep
+of the castle<a id="FNank_84" href="#FN_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a>.
+Tearing, like an infuriated Pasha, “his very beard for ire,” he called
+down curses on Etelina and her husband, and prayed that, if ever he
+forgave them, a dreadful and sudden death might overtake him on the
+spot where he should revoke the malediction he now uttered! Upwards of
+a year had elapsed when, one winter-day, the knight of Greifenstein,
+pursuing the chase, lost his way in the mazes of a wilderness on the
+banks of the Danube. A savage-looking being, half clothed in skins,
+conducted him to a cavern, in which a woman similarly attired was
+seated on the ground, with an infant on her knees, and greedily gnawing
+the bones of a wolf.—Sir Reinhard recognised in the squalid form before
+him his once beautiful Etelina.—Shocked to the soul at the sight of
+the misery to which his severity had reduced her, he silently motioned
+to the huntsmen,
+<span class="pagenum">280</span>
+ who came straggling
+in upon his track to remove the wretched pair and their poor little
+offspring to the castle. Moved by the smiles of his innocent and
+unconscious grandchild, he clasped his repentant daughter to his bosom,
+as she re-crossed the threshold, bore her up into the banquet-hall,
+and consigning her to the arms of her faithful Rudolph, hastened down
+again to release with his own hands the true-hearted monk, who still
+languished in captivity. In descending the steep staircase, his foot
+slipped, and he was precipitated to the bottom—his fall was unseen—his
+cry was unheard—dying, he dragged himself a few paces along the
+pavement, and expired upon the very spot where he had just embraced
+and forgiven his daughter. Rudolph, now Lord of Greifenstein, restored
+the chaplain to liberty, and lived long and happily with his beloved
+Etelina; but the spirit of Sir Reinhard to this day wanders about the
+ruins of his ancestral castle, and will continue so to do till the
+stone whereon he expired shall be worn in twain. “Alas! poor ghost!”
+the very slight hollow which is at present perceivable in it, affords
+you
+<span class="pagenum">281</span>
+ little hope of its division by
+fair means previously to the general “<i>crack</i> of doom.”</p>
+
+<p>Near the village of Höfelein, the river suddenly wheels to the
+south, and the last grand picture of the series opens before you. On
+the left is the little town of Korneuburg, backed by the vine-covered
+Bisamberg, and embosomed in beautiful groves and orchards. On the
+right, arise the gilded domes of Kloster-Neuburg, and far above them,
+in the blue distance, tower the colossal Khalenberge, “the watchmen
+of Vienna,” crowned with their churches, and terminating a chain of
+alps and mountains, that, stretching across Southern Europe, links
+the Danube with the Gulph of Genoa. There was something peculiarly
+exciting in the scene. I was floating upon waves that were rushing
+to the Euxine, and gazing upon a line of hills that extended to the
+Mediterranean. I could almost fancy the clash of Turkish cymbals,
+mingled with the murmur of the water, while the sound of mandolin and
+castagnet was faintly wafted on the breeze from the land. The former
+flight may, at least, be forgiven me in such a situation; for these
+shores have
+<span class="pagenum">282</span>
+ but too often echoed the
+wild marches of the Ottoman, and the trembling waves reflected the
+glittering crescent. The black horse-tails of many a proud Pasha have
+streamed insultingly from yonder heights, the sable heralds of death
+and desolation. The “high-capped Tartar” has here “spurred his steed
+away,” and the shout of</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+  “God and the Prophet!—Allah hu!”
+</p>
+
+<p>shaken like an earthquake the throne of the Cæsars.</p>
+
+<p>Korneuburg is the seat of the Kreis-amtes for the quarter of
+Unter-Manhardsberg. In 1306, it was the scene of one of those horrid
+massacres, which invariably, during the middle ages, cancelled the
+debts of Christendom to the House of Israel. The same blasphemous
+falsehood, which thirty years afterwards deluged the streets of
+Deggendorf with Hebrew blood, was here made the pretence for burning
+alive all the unfortunate Jews in the place. The Emperor Frederick IV.
+here met his deliverer, George Podiebrad, King of Bohemia, A.D. 1462,
+whose prompt assistance compelled Albert of Austria, the Emperor’s
+brother,
+<span class="pagenum">283</span>
+ to raise the siege of
+Vienna, (in the citadel of which Frederick was shut up with only
+two hundred men,) to restore the towns, fortresses and countries he
+had taken possession of during this unnatural contest, and pay an
+annual sum of four thousand ducats to the Emperor for the government
+of Lower Austria. In 1477, Korneuburg was besieged by Matthias
+Corvinus; and the brave Austrian commandant, Enenkel, received his
+death-wound from an arrow that entered an embrasure through which
+he was reconnoitring the enemy. It was again besieged by Corvinus
+in 1484, and stood out till the very vermin of the town became the
+food of the famished garrison; and in the seventeenth century, the
+Swedes, who had taken and shut themselves up in the place, after an
+equally stubborn resistance, capitulated upon honourable terms. On
+the Bisamberg, which rises behind it, are the finest vineyards in
+the neighbourhood of Vienna. The wine they yield is considered the
+best of what are called the Danube wines; the next in celebrity are
+Kloster-Neuburger, Grinzinger, (a very pleasant wine,) Maurer, and
+Brunner, all
+<span class="pagenum">284</span>
+ grown on the right bank.
+On the summit of the Bisamberg, formerly stood the old castle of the
+knights of Pucinperche, or Busenberge, and near it rises the little
+Büsenbach, that ripples through three channels into the Danube. At its
+foot is Lang-Enzersdorf, the first post station from Vienna on the
+road to Prague. Part of Kara-Mustapha’s army crossed the Danube here
+during the siege of Vienna, and reduced the place to ashes. Nearly
+opposite to Lang-Enzersdorf, stands the unfinished but magnificent
+Kloster-Neuburg, and the little town to which it has given its name<a
+id="FNank_85" href="#FN_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a>. The Kloster was
+originally founded by Leopold the Saint, in consequence of his wife’s
+veil, which had been blown away as she was walking on the Khalenberg,
+being wafted to this spot, and discovered some time after, hanging
+on an elder-tree, by one of the Markgraf’s hounds!—So miraculous and
+interesting an occurrence was deemed worthy of commemoration. A convent
+was immediately built and endowed by the pious Markgraf; and <span
+class="pagenum">285</span> the monks enshrined the elder-tree in gold
+wire-work, and imitated its blossoms with pearls<a id="FNank_86"
+href="#FN_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a>. Our boat now passed under
+the precipices of the Leopoldsberg. The two last mountains of the
+Wiener-Wald have both received the appellation of Khalenberg or
+Kalte-Berg. But the ancient Khalenberg is now known by the name of the
+Leopoldsberg, and by the Khalenberg is generally understood the former:
+Josephsberg, the second mountain from the bank of the Danube.</p>
+
+<p>On the summit of the present Leopoldsberg, originally stood the
+Castle of Leopold the Saint; and from that castle, long before
+Vienna was built, the Markgraf issued to hunt in the neighbouring
+forests, and sometimes pursued his game over the plain whereon the
+capital of Austria now spreads its interminable suburbs. In 1291,
+Albert I., Duke of Austria, sought refuge in this fortress from the
+revolted citizens of Vienna; and summoning reinforcements <span
+class="pagenum">286</span> from Swabia, cut off all aid and provisions
+from the rebels, and compelled them at last to an unconditional
+surrender. The principal magistrates came bare-headed and bare-footed,
+to his camp, and in their presence he tore up the charters of the city,
+and abrogated all those privileges which he deemed injurious to his
+authority. During the reign of Albert III., the castle fell into decay,
+and lay in ruins nearly fifty years, when it was rebuilt by Albert
+V. Ruined again by the wars of the fifteenth century, the Emperor
+Leopold I. determined to erect upon its site a chapel, in honour of
+his ancestor and patron. Before the work was completed, however, the
+Turks had burst into Austria, and during the siege of Vienna, destroyed
+the unfinished chapel as well as the few remaining walls of the old
+castle. The Saxons, who fought in the left wing of the army of relief,
+carried the Turkish positions on this mountain by storm, and drove
+them with much slaughter out of the ruins in which they had entrenched
+themselves. On the flight of the infidels, Leopold recommenced
+building his chapel, but it was finished by his son Charles VI., under
+<span class="pagenum">287</span>
+ the superintendence of the Italian
+architect Beluzzi, who also built a palace near it by the Emperor’s
+order, and twelve years afterwards erected the present church upon the
+site of the chapel. The monks of Kloster-Neuburg, who had installed
+themselves in these edifices, were afterwards expelled by Joseph II.<a
+id="FNank_87" href="#FN_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a>, and the church
+and palace became the property of Prince de Ligne, the historian. His
+highness considerably improved the grounds about it, and it has become
+a favourite resort of the Viennese, who flock up the mountain on a
+fine summer day, to enjoy the magnificent prospect from its summit,
+or from the little Belvedere that overhangs the Danube. On <span
+class="pagenum">288</span> the outside of the building in which the
+prince resided, are several inscriptions; amongst others his favourite
+motto,</p>
+
+<p>
+  <span class="indent2">“Quo res cumque cadunt, semper stat
+  linea recta;”</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>and the words</p>
+
+<p>
+  <span class="indent2">“Château de mon refuge.”</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>On the side facing the Danube are the following truly French
+lines, in allusion to the various fortunes which have attended the
+building.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    <span class="m03">“Margraves, Polonais, Turcs et
+    Saints, tour à tour,</span><br>
+    Rendirent autrefois célèbre ce séjour;<br>
+    C’est à présent celui de la philosophie,<br>
+    Du calme de l’esprit, du bonheur de la vie.<br>
+    Notre ame s’aggrandit par des grands souvenirs,<br>
+    <i>Mais la meilleure histoire est celui des plaisirs</i>.<br>
+    Sans remords, sans regrets, sans crainte et sans envie<br>
+    La nature se montre en son bel appareil<br>
+    Et l’on se croit ici favori du soleil.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the ceiling of the Belvedere is inscribed</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Optimis Vindobonensibus<br>
+    &nbsp;Carolus Princeps de Ligne.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the Khalenberg, as the Josephsberg is now called, stands
+what was formerly a monastery, founded by Ferdinand II. in 1628.
+Leopold I. re-established it after the siege of Vienna; Joseph I.
+enlarged, and Joseph II. suppressed it. Like the building on the
+Leopoldsberg, it was purchased by the Prince de Ligne, and is a <span
+class="pagenum">289</span> point of <i>réunion</i> for the holiday
+makers of the capital.</p>
+
+<p>Below the Leopoldsberg, the Danube is divided into three large
+branches, and on entering the southern branch the great dark spire of
+St. Stephen’s suddenly appeared between the trees on the left bank,
+and other spires and domes gliding gradually into view, we looked at
+length upon Vienna! Impatiently did we pace the bank at Nussdorf, a
+little village on the right of the stream, about an hour’s journey
+from the walls of the city, where all boats are obliged to stop till
+passports are examined, and permission given to proceed to what is
+called the Schanzel landing-place, near the Ferdinand’s Brüche (Bridge
+of Ferdinand.) Nearly an hour and a half were we detained at this
+place, within sight of the goal we were burning to reach. The papers at
+length arrived; our crew once more plied their paddles, and through the
+crowd of boats moored on each side of the river, we advanced slowly,
+catching occasional glimpses of new buildings and towers, as they
+appeared between the tall stacks of firewood that line the banks of
+this arm of
+<span class="pagenum">290</span>
+ the Danube. Suddenly we
+found ourselves under the walls of the city, and about twenty minutes
+afterwards, having followed a custom-house officer to the <i>mauth</i>
+of the Schanzel, where our baggage underwent strict examination,
+we entered the gates, the way to our hotel being marshalled by
+a good-natured Italian, who had volunteered his services at the
+custom-house. Previously, however, to quitting the boat, the three
+poor women, whom we had taken on board at Marsbach, perceiving their
+journey ended, requested to know what they had to pay. On being, with
+some difficulty, made to understand that they were perfectly welcome
+to their passage, their joy was extravagant. They clapped their own
+hands, and kissed ours repeatedly, (the usual mode of expressing thanks
+in Austria,) and with a chorus of “Das ist schön! Das ist schön<a
+id="FNank_88" href="#FN_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a>!” shouldered their
+heavy bundles, and shuffled away in high glee.</p>
+
+<p>Preceded by our Italian guide, and followed by the two
+steersmen and their crew carrying our luggage, we bustled <span
+class="pagenum">291</span> through the crowded streets of Vienna,
+and crossing the square, in the centre of which stands the fine old
+cathedral of St. Stephen, entered the Weyburg Gasse, and were soon
+comfortably installed in the Hotel of the Kaiserinn von Osterreich
+(the Empress of Austria.) Gentle reader, I have now landed you, with
+myself, safely in Vienna. Do not imagine, because I have been, perhaps,
+tediously minute in my descriptions up to this period, that I am about
+to enter upon a long-winded geographical, statistical, historical
+account of “the habitation of the Cæsars.” We are now upon beaten
+ground, and even presuming that you are unacquainted with it, there are
+dozens of guides much better calculated to do the honours and show the
+lions of Vienna than your humble servant.</p>
+
+<p>I shall therefore take the liberty, before I make my final bow, and
+hand you over to the acute Russel, the pleasant Ramblers in Germany,
+either military or musical—the caustic author of ‘Austria as it is,’ or
+any other intelligent tourist—to waft you at once to the pinnacle of
+a steep hill in that gorge of the Wienerwald called the Brühl <span
+class="pagenum">292</span> or the Priel, behind the very ancient and
+picturesque little town of Möhdling. There you are—on the steps of the
+“Temple of Glory,” a handsome Doric building erected by the present
+Prince Lichtenstein to the memory of the brave hussars who rescued him,
+at the expense of their lives, from the French in the battle of Wagram.
+On the wall of a vault, beneath the building, where their bodies are
+deposited, is the following affecting inscription:—“Softly repose upon
+this height, precious remains of the valiant Austrian warriors, who
+fell, covered with glory, at Aspern and Wagram. Your friend is not
+able to reanimate the lifeless bodies. To honour them is his duty<a
+id="FNank_89" href="#FN_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a>.”</p>
+
+<p>As he turns from perusing these lines, as honourable to the dictator
+of them as to the brave men to whom they allude, the moistened eye
+of the stranger wanders over the immense prospect below him, and
+falls upon the very scene of their valour and their death. Yonder
+stretches the wide plain upon which the fate of Austria<span
+class="pagenum">293</span> has been twice decided. Rudolph of Hapsburg,
+the founder of its noble house, there wrested the duchy and the crown:
+of the empire from Ottokar, king of Bohemia, on August 26th, A.D.
+1278.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of July, five hundred and thirty-one years afterwards,
+the descendant of Rudolph saw that duchy and crown at the mercy of an
+adventurer, who had, for the second time, driven him from his capital,
+and now threatened the utter extinction of his dynasty. There is the
+celebrated island of Lobau, out of which, after its critical escape,
+the French army crossed the Danube amid night and storm, by the
+dreadful light of the blazing town of Enzersdorf, into the plain of
+Morava, the destined arena of that decisive combat.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“All was prepared—the fire, the
+  sword, the men</span><br>
+  To wield them in their terrible array.<br>
+  The army, like a lion from his den,<br>
+  Marched forth with nerve and sinews bent to slay,—<br>
+  A human Hydra, issuing from its fen<br>
+  To breathe destruction on its winding way.<br>
+  <span class="center">* * * * * * * * * * </span>
+  The night was dark, and the thick mist allowed<br>
+  Nought to be seen save the artillery’s flame,<br>
+  Which arched the horizon like a fiery cloud,<br>
+  And in the Danube’s waters shone the same—<br>
+  A mirrored Hell! The volleying roar, and loud<br>
+  Long booming of each peal on peal, o’ercame<span class="pagenum">294
+  </span><br>The ear far more than thunder, for Heaven’s flashes<br>
+  Spare or smite rarely—Man’s make millions ashes!”<br><br>
+  <span class="right"><span class="smcap">Don Juan</span>, Canto 8, st. 2. 6.</span>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are the little villages of Essling, Aspern, and Wagram, whose
+names, like those of the still more insignificant hamlets of Blenheim
+and Waterloo, are ineffaceably inscribed on the tablets of Fame, though
+scarcely to be distinguished in the map of Europe. Do you mark that
+white building a little on this side of the city, looking, from the
+height on which we stand, like the card-house of an infant? The sun now
+falls upon something like a triumphal arch, on an elevation immediately
+behind it—that is Schönbrunn, with its well-known Gloriette. In that
+palace, is a fair-haired boy, the son of the victor in that terrible
+fight, and of the daughter of the vanquished. To that fight he owes
+his existence. Its issue enabled a low-born Corsican to dictate terms
+to one of the most powerful monarchs in the world, and mingle his
+blood with that of a line of emperors. Let us turn from these scenes
+of strife and “vaulting ambition, which o’erleaps itself,” to the
+forest-covered hills around, and the lovely vallies beneath us. At
+the foot of that mountain
+<span class="pagenum">295</span>
+ lie the
+sulphur-baths of Baden, and beside them opens the beautiful Helen-thal,
+at the mouth of which resides the brave and popular Archduke Charles,
+the gallant, though unsuccessful, opponent of Napoleon. His chateau is
+named Wildburg, in honour of his Archduchess, a princess of the House
+of Nassau-Wildburg. There is scarcely any garden-ground belonging to
+it, and he, therefore, good-naturedly makes a garden of the whole
+valley, and gives the public the benefit of it.</p>
+
+<p>Every morning, during the season, the visiters of this fashionable
+watering-place flock by dozens to a farm-house, belonging to the Baron
+von Dopplehof, where they eat the best bread in Europe, and sip coffee,
+diluted with most delicious milk, furnished by fifty Styrian cows, all
+of that light dun colour which particularly distinguishes the race.
+The day is divided between the bath and the shades of the Helen-thal;
+and, as evening advances, the gay groups saunter back along the banks
+of the rivulet that brawls through this romantic glen, and drop
+leisurely into the pretty little theatre of Baden. Russel has <span
+class="pagenum">296</span> drawn an animated and faithful picture of
+this spot. I shall, therefore, only mention a ridiculous circumstance
+which occurred here a few years ago. The old wooden bridge over the
+rivulet I have just mentioned, had been replaced by one of cast iron;
+and the completion of this work being an important era for the little
+town, a procession was formed to open the bridge, and the whole
+neighbourhood collected on and round it to witness the ceremony. One
+of the Archdukes (Anthony, I believe) headed the cortege, and, after
+it had passed over, the burgomaster, standing in the centre of the
+bridge, harangued the spectators. His speech was a model for succeeding
+burgomasters, to fashion their orations by. The crowd pressed nearer
+and nearer to listen, and be edified. The worthy officer warmed with
+his subject; he became absolutely figurative. “Our gratitude, our
+attachment (exclaimed he, in a transport of loyalty) to the illustrious
+House of Hapsburg, shall remain firm and unshaken as this bridge!”
+but, before he had well finished his sentence, down went bridge,
+burgomaster, and audience, into
+<span class="pagenum">297</span>
+ the
+water. Whether naturally sinking under the weight of the crowd, or
+kicked down by Lucifer himself, who, a rebel from the first, might
+have enjoyed the consternation attendant on so ominous a coincidence,
+remains to be determined. A clumsy bridge of stone now spans the little
+stream of the Schwächat. To the left, almost immediately beneath us,
+upon a green knoll, surrounded by gardens, stands the venerable ruin
+of Lichtenstein, the castle of the ancient princes of that name;
+and, facing it, the modern chateau of their descendants. The old
+walls are in good preservation, and the various apartments clearly
+distinguishable. The chamber of justice, into which the criminal was
+drawn up by a rope from the prison beneath it, through a hole in the
+floor; the prison itself, with its iron rings and staples; and the
+banquet hall, now hung with full-length portraits of the family, (none
+of them, by the way, painted earlier than the sixteenth century, though
+some profess to represent persons who lived in the fourteenth,) are
+all exceedingly interesting. Beyond it, on the bank of the river, lies
+the broad city,
+<span class="pagenum">298</span>
+ the huge cathedral
+shooting up its dark spire in the centre. From a grated window in
+that spire, the faithful Starrhemberg saw the sun rise every morning
+upon that vast plain, whitened with the tents of the Moslem, and
+watched night after night for the joyful signals of relief. They rose
+at length. From those heights, the gallant Sobieski rushed upon the
+panic-stricken Vizier, who, abandoning his camp and his treasures to
+the victorious Pole, fled like a tiger baffled in his spring. On the
+high road to Carinthia and Italy, that runs parallel with this chain
+of mountains, you may observe a slender Gothic cross, that is to say,
+one of those crocketted pyramids, surmounted with a small cross, which
+are so called, and to be seen in many of our own market towns. It is
+the Spinnerinn-am-Kreutz, and, according to the legend, marks the spot
+on which a maiden vowed to sit and spin till her lover returned from
+the holy land. Smile not so contemptuously; if you are proof against
+“a ballad in print,” there is also an historical interest attached
+to that lonely monument. It commemorates the retreat of Solyman the
+Magnificent,
+<span class="pagenum">299</span>
+ and the valour of an
+ancestor of the princely House of Schwartzenburg. For thirty days,</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“Amid the vale below,</span><br>
+  Tents rose, and streamers play’d,<br>
+  And javelins sparkled in the sun,<br>
+  And multitudes encamped,<br>
+  Swarmed far as eye could follow o’er the plain;<br>
+  There, in his war-pavilion, sat,<br>
+  In council with his chiefs,<br>
+  The Sultan of the Land!”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Foiled in every assault by the skill of the commandant, Nicholas
+Count of Salm, by the courage of the garrison, and the loyalty of the
+burghers, the advance of winter, and the dread of approaching succours,
+compelled him to raise the siege, and to retreat to Buda, A.D. 1529.</p>
+
+<p>Still farther eastward lies the little village of Laxendorf, with
+the summer palace and gardens of Laxenburg, a favourite retreat of
+the Emperor, and something between the well-known Petit-Trianon at
+Versailles, and the grander Wilhelmshöe at Hessen-Cassel. Inferior to
+them both in situation, it combines many of their separate attractions:
+there are the rustic bridges, and Swiss cottages of the former, and the
+modern antique castle of the latter. Instead of the splendid <span
+class="pagenum">300</span> waterworks of Wilhelmshöe, you must be
+contented, however, with the calm, clear lakes of Laxendorf, in which
+myriads of enormous carp battle for the large crusts flung to them by
+the guide, their scaly armour glittering in the sun, like</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+“Mingled metal damasked o’er with gold.”
+</p>
+
+<p>In the centre of one of these lakes rises an island fortress.
+At a given signal a boat pushes off from the watergate, you are
+ferried over, and enter the court-yard of the building, which is
+fitted up in strict conformity to the taste of the middle ages. Like
+the Lowenburg at Wilhelmshoe, all the furniture of this fortress is
+really antique—the carved oaken ceilings and wainscots having been
+brought from suppressed monasteries and demolished castles. The
+beds, chairs, tables, etc., collected in a similar manner, are also
+extremely curious. Around the skirting-board of one of the apartments
+on the ground floor, is a most interesting painting of a procession
+to the lists, of the time of Maximilian I., and resembling in some
+degree the prints of his “Triumph” by Hans Burgmair. The heralds and
+pursuivants, habited alternately
+<span class="pagenum">301</span>
+ in
+the colours of the empire and the duchy, are followed by the Emperor
+himself, armed at all points for the tournament, and twenty or thirty
+knights, riding in couples, their ponderous tilting helmets crested and
+garlanded in the elaborate German fashion, and their horses splendid
+with engraved chanfrons and emblazoned housings. The procession is
+closed by the priest and the surgeon, and the Todtwagen, or hearse to
+carry away the slain champions! A long narrow gallery, on the highest
+floor of the building, hung with the costumes of all the European
+nations during the sixteenth century, leads to a dimly-lighted,
+unfurnished turret-chamber, the only ornaments of which are three
+small half-length portraits of Phillip II. of Spain, his queen Isabel,
+and his unfortunate son Don Carlos. The gloom of the chamber, its
+desolate appearance, so opposite to that of the other apartments,
+which are profusely decorated and furnished; the three pale faces of
+the principal actors in that most dreadful of domestic tragedies,
+glaring at one another from the opposite walls, send a cold shudder
+through your frame; and
+<span class="pagenum">302</span>
+ you hasten
+from the spot, as though murder had been freshly committed there, and
+the dark shadow of the retiring assassin was yet gliding along the
+floor of the adjacent gallery! The Knight’s Castle, as that building
+is called, has also its state apartments; its chamber of justice; its
+prison with a puppet prisoner, (the only piece of bad taste about
+it, <a id="FNank_90" href="#FN_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a>) and
+its armoury. The latter contains some handsome fluted and embossed
+suits, but nothing particularly ancient<a id="FNank_91" href="#FN_91"
+class="fnanchor">[91]</a>; throughout Germany, the richest suit of
+armour, whatever may be its date, is invariably appropriated to the
+Emperor Maximilian, though in the same collection; and standing next
+to it, is a suit which probably did belong to him, or, at least, is
+of the same period. From the Knight’s Castle, you are led to <span
+class="pagenum">303</span> the Knight’s Chapel, his tilt-yard, and
+his farm; the upper apartments of the latter are filled with ancient
+cabinets, paintings, and curiosities of every description. Laxendorf is
+first mentioned by old Minnesänger Tanhuser, who, having wandered from
+land to land, and from court to court, and seen, as he himself informs
+us, Crete, Jerusalem, Cyprus, Normandy, Antioch, Coblenz (!), Rome, and
+Pisa, came to Vienna during the reign of the Emperor Frederick II., who
+highly patronized him, and gave him a residence in the capital, and
+other property in its neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+  <span class="m03">“Zu Wiene hat ich einen Hof</span>
+  <br>
+  Der lag so rechte schöne;<br>
+  Lupolzdorf was darzuo min<br>
+  Das lit (liegt) bi <i>Luchse</i> nahen;<br>
+  Ze Hinperg hat ich schöne guot,” etc.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Laxendorf, lying close by Leopoldsdorf and Himperg, is evidently
+the Luchse of our fortunate Minnesänger; and, towards the close
+of the thirteenth century, we find the name of one Pertold, of
+Lachsindorf. In 1330, Albert II., surnamed the Lame, Duke of Austria,
+possessed a castle at Lachsindorf, and Duke Albert III., “with <span
+class="pagenum">304</span> the tress,” built a new castle upon the
+site of the old one, and had the magnificent furniture and valuable
+antiquities which had previously adorned Saint Leopold’s castle on
+the Khalenberg, removed to this place, which became his favourite
+residence; where, shaking off as much as possible the cares of
+sovereignty and secular pomp, he worked in the garden with his own
+hands, and, studying Palladius on rural economy, amused himself with
+planting and horticulture. Its marshy situation, however, is supposed
+to have shortened the life of this amiable prince. Seized, during an
+expedition into Bohemia, with a mortal disorder, of which he had here
+laid the foundation, he was conveyed back in haste to Laxendorf, and
+died on the 29th of August, 1395, aged forty-six, amid the lamentations
+of the citizens of Vienna, who crowded round his corse, exclaiming, “We
+have lost our friend, our true father!”</p>
+
+<p>In 1683, the Turks laid Laxendorf in ashes. It was rebuilt by the
+Emperor Leopold I.; and his son Charles IV., in his brown surtout and
+bag-wig, here delighted
+<span class="pagenum">305</span>
+ to “bait
+the heron.” Joseph II. turned the old blaue-haus<a id="FNank_92"
+href="#FN_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a>, which was formerly the
+falconry, into the imperial residence. The Gothic toy on the lake owes
+its existence to a whim of the late Empress of Austria.</p>
+
+<p>But the sun is fast descending behind us—his last rays are lighting
+up the boundless prospect. Let me take advantage of them to point out
+to you the only remaining object of interest in the picture: on that
+gray conical hill, that, dimly looming on the verge of the horizon,
+might almost be mistaken for a cloud, stands the castle of Presburg;
+at its foot lies the capital of Hungary, and past it hurries the broad
+Danube, widening, deepening, and strengthening, as it flows, wheeling
+to the south round the walls of Buda, washing those of Belgrade, and
+bearing the tributes of the Save, the Drave, the Teiss, and the Pruth,
+through the swamps of Bess-Arabia into the dark Euxine. At the moment
+I am speaking, the eyes of
+<span class="pagenum">306</span>
+ all
+Europe are bent in the same direction. The cannon has been fired that
+may shake the peace of the world. The flames that are kindling on the
+shores of the Black Sea may spread to the mouths of the Mississippi.
+But I have neither the talent nor the ambition to be a politician or
+a prophet; and so farewell, gentle reader: the bugles of the peaceful
+herdsmen, saluting some returning visiters of Baden, shall “sing truce”
+to our warlike speculations, for</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    <span class="m03">“The night cloud has lower’d,
+    </span><br>
+    And sentinel stars set their watch in the sky.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is time to hurry down from the Temple of Glory, and return to
+the gay city. Go lounge upon the bustling and brilliant Graben—gaze
+upon the pyrotechnics of the Prater, or laugh in the little theatre of
+Leopoldstadt—seek the Glacis, the Volksgarten, or the Opera. I leave
+you with this conviction, that if I have only been fortunate enough to
+induce you to descend the Danube to Vienna, there is little doubt of
+obtaining your pardon for any failure in my attempt to amuse you on
+your way.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<span class="pagenum">307</span>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak">NAMES<br>
+<span class="s6">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="s4">CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc.</span><br>
+<span class="s6">ON THE</span><br>
+<span class="s4">BANKS OF THE DANUBE,</span><br>
+<span class="s5">FROM RATISBON TO VIENNA.</span>
+</h2>
+</div>
+
+<hr>
+
+<!-- T A B L E   O F   P L A C E   N A M E S -->
+
+<table class="banks">
+<tr>
+  <th class="rb" scope="col">RIGHT BANK.</th>
+  <td class="mid" aria-hidden="true">&#8659;</td>
+  <th class="lb" scope="col">LEFT BANK.</th>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Regensburg</span> <i>or</i> <span class="smcap">Ratisbon</span>.</td>
+  <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+  <td class="lb">Stadt-am-Hof.</td>
+</tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Reinhausen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weichs.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Nicola.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schwabelweiss.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Einhausen or Bürgelut.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Tegernheim.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Irlmauth.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kreuzhof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Donaustauf. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Barbing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Reifelding. St.Salvator.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sulzbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Sarching.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">&nbsp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Demling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Nassenhart.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Friesheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Frenghofen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ilkhofen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kruckenberg. Ettersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Altach. Auburg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kirfenholz.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Eltheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Gaissling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gieffen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Seppenhausen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Oberachdorf. Wiesent.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+      <span class="note-sm">1st Post Station from Regensburg}</span> Pfätter.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wörth (Chateau.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hungerdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Tiefenthal.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Griefau. Gmund.
+      <span class="pagenum">308</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Keesel. Hochdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Herrfurt.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Irling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Heiligen Blut or Niederach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bogen or Hagenhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Aholfing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sinzendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Pondorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Zeitsdorf or Zeitlarn.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weihern.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Beichsee. Kirchenroth.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Ober and Unter Motzing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Pittrich. Neidau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Landersdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kössnach. Pfaffenmünster.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Breitenfield.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hartzeitdorn.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Einhausen. Rinkheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sossau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Eberau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Moosklagers.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sossauer Beschlacht.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hormannsdorf or Hornsdorf</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">2nd Post Station from Regensburg}</span>
+    <span class="smcap">Straubing.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Thurmhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Atzelburg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober and Unter Parkstetten.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Reibersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hochstätter Hof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Lenach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Aiterhofen. Ittling. Ober and Unter Ebling</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+<tr><td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober-Altaich. (Kloster.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hundersdorf. Saut.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bogen and the Bogenberg. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Absarn.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hermansdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hüttenhof. Hofweinzier.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Holzkirch.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Anning. Dörfl.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Einbrach or Kinbrach.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Pfelling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Mitterdorf. Hindeldorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Linzing. Esper. Weichenberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Endau or Zengau.
+    <span class="pagenum">309</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Allkofen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Albertskirchen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Petzendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Strasskirchen. Irlbach.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wallendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Loche.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rafer or Asperhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wischelberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Aichach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Stephan-Posching.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Maria-Posching.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Uttenkofen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hundeldorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Steinfurt.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sommersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Steinkirchen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Klein-Schwarzach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Bergheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ziedeldorf. Offenberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Neuhausen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Himmelberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Metten Ufer.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Metten. (Kloster.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin) Natternberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Helfkam.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Fischerdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schäching.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Deggendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Deggenau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">3d Post Station from Regensburg}</span>
+    <span class="smcap">Plattling on the Inn.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Halbe-Meile-Kirche.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Isragemünd.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Seebach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Reit.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Helmdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Unter Schwarzach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hengersberg. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Thundorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Nieder Altaich. (Kloster.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Alten Ufer.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gindlau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Aicha.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Haardorf. Kreuzberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Säge. Münchsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Osterhofen. Mulheim.
+      <span class="pagenum">310</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Winzer. Hochwinzer.(Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Rockessing.&nbsp; Pockessing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Loh. Kinschbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+ <tr><td class="rb">Rossfelden.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Guscherdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mittau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Endsau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Nesselbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Biflez.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Leiten.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hofkirchen. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+ <tr><td class="rb">Kinzing.&nbsp; Langenkinzing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Herzogau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Pleinting.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober and Unter Schöllenbach</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gelbersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Euröde.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hildegardsberg. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Reif.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Albersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wisbauer.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schmelz.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">U. L. Frau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">4th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> Vilshofen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Winkel</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hacheldorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Witzling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Windorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hannsbach.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Eglsee.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ottenham.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gerharding.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Sandbach.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Fisching.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kötzing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Leestätten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Deichselberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Einöd.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Biberach.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Geishofen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schalding.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Iring.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Söldern.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Reit. Ord. Hof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Alaning.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Donauhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Dobelstein. Haining.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wörth.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Maierhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Steinbach.
+      <span class="pagenum">311</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Stölzel-hof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Freunde. Hain.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">5th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> <span class="smcap">Passau.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ilz-stadt. Oberhaus.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Truckerheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Achleiten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Parz.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Lindau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Aich.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Aichet.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schildbauer.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Leiten.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wingertsdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Unter-Mitter-Esternberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schergendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Deitzendorf. Hetzmannsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Krempenstein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Pirawang.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Unter Schacha.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mazenberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober Hütt. Hochleiten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"> Ober or Hafner-Zell. (Bavarian Custom-House.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kasten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Grunau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Fichtenstein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">(River middle: Jochenstein, or Grenzberg.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gottsdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">(Austrian Custom-House.)}</span> Engelhardszell.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ried. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Leitner.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rana-Riedl. (Chateau.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rana-bach and Mühle.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober-Rana.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ufer.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kacher.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Nieder Rana.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Marsbach (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wesen Urfar.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Marsbach Zell, or Frey Zell.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Wollmarkt.
+      <span class="pagenum">312</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Waldkirchen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Pulhof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kirschbaum, or Hayenbach. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">The Schlagen, or Schlägleiten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Lidritzhueb.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Lidritzhueb.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Au.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Im-Zell.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ob.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Fadenau-Hof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Schwend.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober-Michel. Kirschberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hinter-Aigen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Dorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Windberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Neuhaus. (Ruin and Chateau.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schönleiten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Rosengarten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Stauf. Aschach.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Landshag.</td>
+  </tr>
+ <tr><td class="rb">Hartkirchen. Dorsham.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober Walsee. Eschelberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mülhachen. Bergheim.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Schaumberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Pupping.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Gstettenau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hofham.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Au.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Auerdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Waschpoint.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wörth.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mohrhäusel.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">8th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> Efferding. Schab.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Taubenbraun. Gablau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Raffolding. Ihndorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bösenbach.&nbsp; Bach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Tratteneck.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">
+      <span class="pagenum">313</span>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Strass. Emling. Aham.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Stocköd.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Goldwarth.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Basleiten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hartheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Waldinger.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Alkofen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Garderiener. Hagenau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Bergham.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Gohbesch.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Steger.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schwagen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rodel.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schönering.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Im-Fall.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Höflein.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Urfar.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ottensheim. (Chateau.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Kloster.) Willering.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Buchenau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hager Schloschen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Calvarienberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Margarethen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Pöstlingberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">9th Post Station from Regensburg.}</span> <span class="smcap">Linz.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Urfar.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Anhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Pflaster.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Harbarz.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Furth.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Rosenthal.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Magdalena.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Dornach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Furtner.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Katsbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+      <span class="pagenum">314</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Plösching.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kaufleuten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Binneshäuser.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Blankenreit.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Spital.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Zitzelau. St. Peter.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Dörfl.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ebelsberg on the Traun.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Steyereck. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Pulgarn.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Traundorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Reichenbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Bosch.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Luftenberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Unger Bichling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hof-im-Schlag.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">Monastery of St. Florian and Markt.}</span> Fosterau. Fischau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Himberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Rafferstetten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Auwinden.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Asten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">St. Georgen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Tilly’s Burg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gusen. Wirthshaus. Frankenberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kronau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Spielberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Langenstein.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">10th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> <span class="smcap">Ens.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Urfar.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ensdorf. St. Lorenz. Lorch.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mauthausen. Pragstein.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Enghazen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Tabor.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Windpassing. Biburg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Reissersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Albing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Albing.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Albern.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Niedersebing.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Stein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Au. Berg. Auhof. Mitterberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wagram.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hartschlössel.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Pantaleon.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Naarn.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Erla Kloster.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Anhäusel. Strass. M. Lab. Arbing.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+      <span class="pagenum">315</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Baumgarten.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Breitfeld.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Stafling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Weinberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Holzleiten.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Starzing.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Oberau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rupertshofen. Münzbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">&nbsp;  Windhag. Allerheiligen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">&nbsp;  St. Thomas.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Engelberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Engelthal.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Mitterau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Lin.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Unterau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Eck.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Gersberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Langacker. Wagerhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Achleiten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gang.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">11th Post Station from Regensburg.}</span> Strengberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weisching.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Inzing.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Haag.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hördorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Stauding.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hulting.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hörling. Sindburg. Niederwalsee. (Chateau.)</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mitterkirchen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Sumerau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Menschdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Leitzing.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Im Brüch.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Eizindorf. Froschau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Saxen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Dornach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Klam. (Chateau)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hofkirchen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hagenauer.
+      <span class="pagenum">316</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Petzeldorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Bocksreiter.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rinzenhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ardagger.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Saurüsselleiten.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Winkling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Mayherhof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Tiefenbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wies.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wies.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Grein. (Chateau.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Giesenbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Struden. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">Strudel and Schloss Werfenstein.}</span> Wirbel.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Haustein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">St. Nikola.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sarblingstein.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Hirschau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hirschau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Freyenstein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Dörfel.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Isper.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weins.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Marhof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Chateau.) Donaudorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kiernholz.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bösenbeug. (Chateau)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Ips.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hinterhaus.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Taberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Agen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gottsdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Säusenstein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Barthub.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Mötzling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rohberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Rosenbühel.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Idersdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Loja.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+      <span class="pagenum">317</span>
+    </td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Thümling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Auratsberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kranz.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Marbach. Maria-Taferl.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schelmenbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Krumnussbaum.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Krumnussbaum.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Pechlarn.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Klein Pechlarn.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wörth.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ebersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Lehen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Urfar.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weideneck. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">St. Georgen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Hain.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">
+    <span class="note-sm">14th Post Station from Regensburg}</span> (Kloster) Mölk.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Emmersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hueb.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schall-Emersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gosam.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Urfar. Grinzing.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schönbühel.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Schönbühelhof.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Markt Aggsbach. Aggstein. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Dorf Aggsbach.&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Willendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Groisbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Johann.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schwallenbach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober Arnsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hof Arnsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Erlahöfe.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Unter Arnsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Spitz. Hinterhaus (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Bach Arnsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">St. Michael.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Kienstock.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wesendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Lorenz.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Joching.
+      <span class="pagenum">318</span>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weissenkirchen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ruhrsdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Rossaz.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Dürrenstein. (Ruin.)</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hundheim.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Löben.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Mautern.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"><span class="smcap">Stein.</span></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"><span class="smcap">Krems.</span></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kloster-Göttweih.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Palt.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weinzierl.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Brunnkirchen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Landersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Thalern.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Röhrendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Angern.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wolfsberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Weidling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Neu-Weidling.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Teiss.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Holenburg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wagram.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schlickendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Georgen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Donaudorf. Grunddorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Rittersfeld.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Trasenmauer.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Stollhofen.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Jedtsdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Frauendorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Grafenwörth.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Preiwitz.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Wasen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">St. Johann.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Lebern.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Bodensee.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Sachsendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Kollersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kleindorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Altenwörth.
+      <span class="pagenum">319</span>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Berndorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gugging.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Winkel.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Zwentendorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Frauendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Erpersdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Birnbaum.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Klein Schönbuhel.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Urzenlaa.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kronau.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Möllersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Aspern.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Neuaigen.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Triebensee.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Tuln.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Perzendorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober Schmidabach.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Zana.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober & Unter Aigen, or Langenlebern.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Schmida.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Muckendorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Ober & Unter Zeyersdof.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Zeiselmauer.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Wörten.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Stockerau.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Andre.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Altenberg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">(Ruin.) Greifenstein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Spillern.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Hoflein.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Alt-Kreutzerstein.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Ober Kritzendorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Korneuburg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">St. Veit.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Unter Kritzendorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Bisamberg.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Kloster-Neuburg.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Tuttenhof. Dorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Weidling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Lang-Enzersdorf.</td>
+  </tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="rb">Josephsberg, Leopoldsberg, both called the Khalenberg. Dorfel.</td>
+  <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+  <td class="lb">Jetelsee.</td>
+</tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Nussdorf.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">
+      <span class="pagenum">320</span>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Heiligen Stadt.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb">Gedlersdorf am Spitz.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb">Döbling.</td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="rb"><span class="smcap">Wien or Vienna.</span></td>
+    <td class="mid">&#8659;</td>
+    <td class="lb"></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td colspan="3">
+      <p>19th Post Station, and 27 Posts from Regensburg, or 243 English
+      miles. Distance by water about 300 English miles.</p>
+    </td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center p2">THE END.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2">Printed by <span class="smcap">William Clowes</span>,
+  Stamford Street.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter center">
+<span class="pagenum">321</span>
+
+<div class="cc">
+<p class="center">
+  <i>Speedily will be published, in illustration of this Volume</i>,
+</p>
+<p class="center lh2">
+ FORTY VIEWS ON THE DANUBE,<br>
+ DRAWN ON STONE <span class="allsmcap">BY</span> L. HAGHE,<br>
+ FROM<br>
+ SKETCHES MADE ON THE SPOT BY J. R. PLANCHE.<br>
+ * * *<br>
+ <span class="center">No. I. will contain:</span>
+</p>
+<div class="cc">
+<ol>
+  <li>Ratisbon, from Höhen-Schambach.</li>
+  <li>Donaustauf.</li>
+  <li>Schloss Wörth.</li>
+  <li>Straubing.</li>
+</ol>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- F O O T N O T E S -->
+<div class="chapter center">
+<p class="center s4">FOOTNOTES</p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_1" href="#FNank_1" class="label">[1]</a> While this
+volume was passing through the press, “A Summer’s Ramble amongst the
+Musicians in Germany” appeared, in which pleasant book, a dozen pages
+are allotted to an equally brief and spirited notice of the banks of
+the Danube from Passau to Vienna. Upwards of one hundred years ago,
+Lady M. W. Montague descended the Danube from Ratisbon to Vienna,
+a voyage of which she dismisses her account, in a dozen lines. “We
+travelled by water from Ratisbon,” says the fair writer, “a journey
+perfectly agreeable down the Danube, in one of those little vessels
+that they very properly call wooden houses, having in them all the
+<i>conveniences of a palace, stoves in the chambers, kitchens</i>,
+etc.” (I do not know what exertions might have been made for the
+accommodation of a British Ambassador, his Lady and suite, but the
+Danube, I suspect, has not seen such another boat during the last
+century.) “They are rowed by twelve men each, and move with such
+incredible swiftness, that in the same day you have the pleasure of a
+vast variety of prospects; and within the space of a few hours, you
+have the pleasure of seeing a populous city, adorned with magnificent
+palaces, and the most romantic solitudes which appear distant from
+the commerce of mankind, the banks of the Danube being charmingly
+diversified with woods, rocks, mountains covered with vines, fields of
+corn, large cities, and ruins of ancient castles.”—<i>Letter to the
+Countess of Mar</i>, dated Vienna, September 18th, o. s. 1716.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_2" href="#FNank_2" class="label">[2]</a> Ein handbuch für
+Reisende auf der Donau. Von J. A. Schultes, M. Dr. etc. Wien, 1819.
+Stuttgart, 1827.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_3" href="#FNank_3" class="label">[3]</a> Etymologists
+have squabbled as much over the name of the Danube, as geographers
+over its source, which some contend to be near the village of St.
+George, and others in the court-yard of the palace of the Prince of
+Fürstenberg, at Donaueschingen. This mighty flood, the grandest in
+Europe, and the third in consequence in the Old World, was known to the
+Romans by the double name of the Danube, and the Ister. “Ortus hic in
+Germaniæ jugis montes abnobae ex adverso Raurici Galliæ oppidi multis
+ultra alpes millibus, ac per innumeras lapsus gentes Danubii nomine,
+immenso aquarum auctu et unde primum Illyricum alluit Ister appellatus,
+sexaginta amnibus receptis, medio ferme numero eorum navigabili, in
+Pontum vastis sex fluminibus evolvitur.”—‘Plin. Nat. Hist.’ iv. 24. The
+ancient Germans named it Döne and Tona; the Sclavonians, Donava. The
+Hungarians call it Tanara, or Donara, and the Turks, Duna. Its modern
+German appellation is Donau. Some of the earlier writers would derive
+this name from Deus Abnobius, or Diana Abonbia, or Abnopa, to whom a
+temple was dedicated near the source of the river. Others deduce it
+from Thon, clay, and contend it should be written Thonau. Others again
+would find its origin in the words Ton, sound, or Donner, thunder;
+and Reichard, indeed, gives the latter as the received derivation.
+Breuninger, however, proposes Tanne, a fir, and speciously enough,
+the river rising in the Schwarz-wald, of which fir is the distinctive
+character, and its banks being clothed with forests of the same tree,
+along nearly the whole of its course; while Nikolai would have us seek
+it in the Keltic words Do, Na, which signify two rivers, and may either
+apply to its double name, “Binominem Istrum,” or to the two sources
+which dispute the glory of its birth.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_4" href="#FNank_4" class="label">[4]</a> Vide ‘Gemeiner’s
+Reichs-stadt Regenburgische Chronik.’ 4to, Regensburg, 1805.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_5" href="#FNank_5" class="label">[5]</a> Coxe’s ‘Hist. of
+the House of Austria,’ 8vo. London, 1820, Vol. ii. p. 335.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_6" href="#FNank_6" class="label">[6]</a> “History of
+France,” 8vo. Vol. ii. p. 146.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_7" href="#FNank_7" class="label">[7]</a> From a wood-cut
+in the Nürnberg Chronicle of 1493, it appears, however, that the towers
+were even at that time unfinished; one being represented a story
+shorter than the other, and with a crane upon it raising a stone.
+The author, Hartmann Schedel, in the text of the book, describes the
+edifice as “yet incomplete.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_8" href="#FNank_8" class="label">[8]</a> Vide
+‘Ausführliche relation desjenigen wunderthätigen Kampfes, welcher anno
+930, den 23 Januar, zu Regensburg zwischen Hannss Dollinger einem
+Burger daselbst und einem unglaubigen hunnischen Obristen Craco,
+vorgegangen.’ 4to Regensburg, 1710.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_9" href="#FNank_9" class="label">[9]</a> The legend tells
+us, that the Infernal Architect was sadly worried, during his labours,
+by a cock and a dog. A cock and a bull would have figured with more
+propriety in such a story.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_10" href="#FNank_10" class="label">[10]</a> ‘Des Churbayer
+Atalantis, von A. W. Ertel.’ 8vo. Nurnberg, 1815.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_11" href="#FNank_11" class="label">[11]</a> ‘Travels
+through Germany, etc.’ 4 vols. 4to. London, 1757, vol. iv. p. 212.
+The saint must surely have been like Mrs. Malaprop’s Cerberus—“Three
+gentlemen at once.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_12" href="#FNank_12" class="label">[12]</a> Yet I do
+not find them noticed by Mr. Dibdin, in his curious ‘Bibliographical
+Tour.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_13" href="#FNank_13" class="label">[13]</a> Kloster
+Windberg was originally a castle belonging to the Counts of Bogen.
+Albert of Bogen and Hedwig his wife founded the monastery in 1145. In
+the neighbourhood, two hermits are said to have resided, one of whom
+murdered the other.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_14" href="#FNank_14" class="label">[14]</a> Professor
+Schultes says, the date on the tombstone is incorrect, and that it
+should be October 12th, 1435, as Albert married again 1436. The bridge
+from which she was precipitated, was that which crossed the old arm of
+the Danube, and no longer exists. The present bridge passes over the
+new branch of the river, that washes the town and connects its northern
+side with the Island called the Donauwiese, in which the famous Sossau
+fair, which began on the Sunday after Michaelmas, and lasted eight
+days, was formerly held.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_15" href="#FNank_15" class="label">[15]</a> The original
+castle of a particular family—the cradle of the race. <i>Schloss</i>
+is, however, a most convenient word, as it not only stands for a castle
+or a palace, but for those buildings which are both or neither. The
+<i>chateaux</i> of France, and the <i>seats</i> or <i>mansions</i> of
+England.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_16" href="#FNank_16" class="label">[16]</a> The Archbishop
+of Cologne, in a Letter to the Pope.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_17" href="#FNank_17" class="label">[17]</a> Henry Döring
+has a ballad on this subject, entitled, “Die Zeugen,” (the Witnesses.)
+Vide ‘Ruinen oder Taschenbüch zür Geschicte verfalener Ritterburgen
+und Schlosser, etc. Wien, 1826. 1 Sammlung.’ One might be pardoned for
+supposing the proverb of “Walls have ears,” to have arisen from this
+adventure.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_18" href="#FNank_18" class="label">[18]</a>
+  </p>
+  <div class="indent2" style="max-width: 20em;">
+  <p>
+    “Tausend sechs hundert zehn und acht,<br>
+    Am dritten Pfingstag, nach Mittnacht.<br>
+    Schlug das Wildfeur oben ein,<br>
+    Lief aus dem Thurm in d’kirch hinein;<br>
+    Die kirch gesteckt voll Kirchfarther war<br>
+    Der brennets viel: zwey sturben gar.<br>
+    In diesem Schreken, Strauss, und Brauss<br>
+    Drang alle welt zur Kirchen auss;<br>
+    Der gross Gewalt erdruckt ohnverschon<br>
+    Vier manns und zehen weibsperson<br>
+    Da liegn ihr in zwey Grabern todt<br>
+    Drey Mann, sibn Weiber: tröst sie Gott.”
+  </p>
+  <p class="right">‘Hemmauer,’ a. a.O. 357.</p>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_19" href="#FNank_19" class="label">[19]</a> The whole of
+these circumstances, from the stealing of the Host to the granting of
+the Bull, are represented in paintings on the walls of the church.
+Nearly the same story is told at Bruxelles of three miraculous wafers,
+which were stolen and stabbed by Jews, in 1369; and for which imputed
+crime, several of that persecuted people were burnt alive, by order
+of Duke Wenceslaus. The author of ‘Les Délices des Pays Bas’ tells
+us, that, “Les hosties et les marques durent encore aujourd’hui,
+et ne souffrent pas qu’on les approche <i>sans je me sçai quelle
+horreur toute sainte</i>. On les garde pour un gage particulier de la
+protection divine envers la ville de Brusselles.” Vol. i. p. 121. It
+appears that the Deggendorfers owed the Jews a considerable sum of
+money; it is, therefore, most probable that the story was got up to
+enable them, as the debt grew troublesome, to wash it out in blood.
+Vide ‘Das obsiegende Glaubenswunder des ganzen Christl. Churlandes
+Baiern willsagen <i>unlaugbarer</i> Bericht, etc.’ 8vo. Deggendorf,
+1814.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_20" href="#FNank_20" class="label">[20]</a> “So soon
+another,” says Schultes, “I think I hear the traveller and the
+reader exclaim, who may not be acquainted with the magnitude of this
+order.” And then he proceeds to give, from Hemmauer, the following
+list of popes, priests, emperors, kings, etc. who had, up to that
+time, embraced the Order of Saint Benedict: viz. “Sixty-three popes,
+two hundred and twenty-three cardinals, two hundred and fifty-five
+patriarchs, sixteen thousand archbishops, forty-six thousand bishops,
+twenty-one emperors, twenty-five empresses, forty-eight kings,
+fifty-four queens, one hundred and forty-six imperial and royal
+children, and four hundred and forty-five sovereign princes and dukes!”
+Donaufahrten, tom. i. 8. 374. note.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_21" href="#FNank_21" class="label">[21]</a> Memoriale,
+seu Altachiæ inferioris memoria superstes, ex tabulis, annalibus,
+diplomatis, etc. 6. Joan. Bapt. Lackner etc. Fol. Passavii, 1779.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_22" href="#FNank_22" class="label">[22]</a> Schultes says,
+in 1740; but this must be a mistake, as Maria Theresa was not crowned
+Queen of Hungary till the 25th of June, 1741; and it was after that
+ceremony that, clad in deep mourning, with the crown of St. Stephen
+on her head, and the scimitar at her side, she made the affecting
+address to the Diet, which, rousing the whole nation, brought its
+numerous tribes from the banks of the Save, the Drave, the Teiss and
+the Danube, to the royal standard. These troops, under the names of
+Croats, Pandours, Sclavonians, Warasdinians, and Tolpaches, exhibited
+a new and astonishing spectacle to the eyes of Europe. By their dress
+and arms, by the ferocity of their manners, and their singular mode of
+combat, they struck terror into the disciplined armies of Germany and
+France. Vide Coxe’s ‘History of the House of Austria,’ 8vo. vol. iv.
+p. 442.—Baron Riesbeck, who also dates the circumstance 1740, says,
+“When the Hungarian nobility took the field for their <i>king</i> Maria
+Theresa, the first sight of such troops struck the French army with a
+panic. They had, indeed, often seen detachments of these ‘<i>Diables
+d’Hongrie</i>,’ as they used to call them; but a whole army, drawn up
+in battle array, unpowdered from the general to the common soldier,
+half their faces covered with long whiskers, a sort of round beaver on
+their heads instead of hats, without ruffles or frills to their shirts,
+and without feathers, all clad in rough skins, monstrous crooked
+sabres, ready drawn and uplifted, their eyes darting flashes of rage
+sharper than the beams of their naked sabres, was a sight our men had
+not been accustomed to see.” (It must be remembered that Riesbeck,
+though a German, writes in the character of a Frenchman.) “Our oldest
+officers still remember the impression these terrible troops made, and
+how difficult it was to make the men stand against them, till they had
+been accustomed to their formidable appearance.” Pinkerton’s Collect.
+vol. vi. p. 112.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_23" href="#FNank_23" class="label">[23]</a> Liv. i. ch.
+433.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_24" href="#FNank_24" class="label">[24]</a> Liv. ii. ch.
+125.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_25" href="#FNank_25" class="label">[25]</a> Geschichte der
+Deutschen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_26" href="#FNank_26" class="label">[26]</a> The canons
+or prebends of this establishment have the word “allain,” (“alone,”)
+inscribed upon their arms, their clothes, and their houses. Schultes
+tells us that a wag Latinised it “Solus cum sola.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_27" href="#FNank_27" class="label">[27]</a> Vide ‘Lays of
+the Minnesingers, or German Troubadours.’ 12mo. Lond. 1825, p. 113, and
+the Appendix to the ‘Nibelungen-lied’, called “Die Klage,” <i>i. e.</i>
+the Lament.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_28" href="#FNank_28" class="label">[28]</a> Coxe’s
+‘History of the House of Austria,’ vol. ii. pp. 419, 20. I have
+mentioned these circumstances, as the devastations committed by these
+troops, who are called by the German writers the Passauer Volk, are
+still but too visible upon the banks of the Danube, and will be alluded
+to hereafter.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+ <p><a id="FN_29" href="#FNank_29" class="label">[29]</a> The Austrian
+ commander Plantini was beheaded at Ingolstadt, in 1743, for delivering
+ this fortress up to the Bavarians, without firing a shot.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_30" href="#FNank_30" class="label">[30]</a> Mr. Russel,
+in his tour in Germany, speaking of the number of abbeys, monasteries,
+etc., has taken up the cause of these holy locusts, and contends,
+with all that ingenuity and talent which characterize his excellent
+work, that it is wrong to accuse the princes, or pious individuals
+who endowed them, of having been imprudently liberal to the church.
+"Thousands of acres were given, <i>but they were acres of wood and
+water, utterly unproductive to the public</i>, and which would probably
+have remained for centuries in the same wild state, if they had been
+the property of a quarrelsome baron, instead of belonging to <i>the
+peaceful sons of the church</i>. The monks, though idle themselves,
+were not encouragers of idleness in their subjects. Their leisure
+allowed them to instruct, and their love of gain led them to aid, their
+vassals in agricultural science, rude as it was, while, at the same
+time, the sacred character which they enjoyed, placed their peasantry
+beyond the reach of the oppressions practised by feudal nobles. It
+has long been a current proverb in Germany, 'Man lebt gut unter dem
+Krummstab <a id="FNank_30a" href="#FN_30a" class="fnanchor">[30a]</a>.'
+It is true that one is apt to feel provoked when he is told that these
+fruitful vallies and the pasture hills which rise along their sides,
+belong to a congregation of idle monks. But monks were the very men
+who made the vallies fruitful, and the hills useful. They received
+them <i>covered with trees</i>, and rocks—<i>no very liberal boon</i>
+<a id="FNank_30b" href="#FN_30b" class="fnanchor">[30b]</a>, and it
+was they who planted them with corn and stored them with sheep." This
+is all very true, as far as regards the benefits which mankind has
+eventually received from these establishments; for we have likewise
+to thank the cowl and crosier, for much if not all the valuable
+information respecting the days of our fathers and "the old time before
+them," which the chronicles, written and illuminated in abbey and
+convent, contain. But let the praise be given to that Providence, "from
+seeming evil still producing good," in whose hands these monks were the
+unconscious instruments of spreading that very light and information
+which it was their constant study and employment to extinguish and
+contract. The hypocrisy and cupidity of these self-elected saints are
+far less pardonable than the brutal ferocity of the barons, whose
+pitiable ignorance and superstition; the roots of the evil, they
+fostered for their own advantage. Instead of employing the influence
+which their superior education and sacred character gave them over
+the minds of these uncultivated men, in the truly Christian task of
+curbing their passions, enlightening their understandings, and bringing
+them to a sense of the folly and wickedness of their ways, they meanly
+exerted it for the purposes of self-aggrandizement, utterly careless of
+the pitiable state of destitution and degradation in which, by their
+rapacious demands and disgusting mummeries, they were daily sinking
+their poor, besotted, bigoted, but often truly noble benefactors. The
+knave who swindles a silly heir out of his property may wonderfully
+improve the estate and build an hospital with the money; but he is no
+less a knave because the poor and the sick are eventually gainers; nor
+is the folly of the unfortunate dupe an excuse, in the eye of honour
+and honesty, for his crime; which is, on the contrary, aggravated by
+the advantage taken of the victim's imbecility. Avarice and ambition,
+however, sowed the seeds of their own destruction. The Church of Rome
+might have flourished to this day, had not its grasping hand pressed so
+heavily upon its subjects, as at length to rouse them from their trance
+and open their eyes, not so much to its errors as to its wealth. Truly
+does Schiller remark, that "Had it not been closely backed with private
+advantages, and state interests, the arguments of theologians, and the
+voice of the people, would never have met with princes so willing to
+espouse their cause, nor the new doctrines have found so numerous, so
+brave, and so obstinate champions!"... "The desire of independence, the
+rich plunder of monastic institutions, gave charms to the Reformation
+in the eyes of princes, and strengthened not a little their inward
+conviction of its necessity."... "Without the imposition of the tenth
+and twentieth pennies, the See of Rome had never lost the United
+Netherlands." The question, "Why the Pope, who is richer than several
+Crœsus's, cannot build the Church of Saint Peter with his own money,
+but does it at the expense of the poor?" was more staggering than that
+of his infallibility. The <i>sale</i> of indulgences first induced men
+to inquire into the power of the Church to <i>grant</i> them. The heavy
+coffers of the abbots, and the glittering ornaments of their shrines
+and altars drew the swords of such adventurers as Christian, Duke of
+Brunswick, who issued a coinage composed of church-plate, and bearing
+the motto—"A friend to God and an enemy to the priesthood." "Woe unto
+them," says the inspired Isaiah, "<i>that join house to house, that lay
+field to field, till there be no place, that they may be placed alone
+in the midst of the earth</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Which justify the wicked for reward</i>, and take away the
+righteousness of the righteous from him.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Therefore is the anger of the Lord kindled against his people,
+and he stretched forth his hand against them, and hath smitten
+them</i>, and the hills did tremble, and <i>their carcases were torn
+in the midst of the streets</i>. For all this his anger is not turned
+away, <i>but his hand is stretched out still</i>."</p>
+
+<p>Such were the crimes of the Church of Rome; such has been its
+punishment, and "His anger," indeed, "is not turned away"—"His hand is
+stretched out still." Who can look upon its fallen state, and listen
+to the cry of its unfortunate remnant, without exclaiming in the words
+of Jeremiah, "How is she become as a widow; she that was great among
+the nations, and princess among the provinces! How is she become
+tributary!"</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_30a" href="#FNank_30a" class="label">[30a]</a> “One lived
+well under the crosier.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_30b" href="#FNank_30b" class="label">[30b]</a> <i>No very
+liberal boon, Mr. Russel!</i> What! In a country where wood is to
+this day the staple commodity? where the greater part of the revenue
+of many of the nobles, and the entire incomes of thousands of the
+peasantry, are derived from the sale of the trees with which nature has
+so lavishly clothed the land? from the produce of those very “acres
+of wood,” which you, from some strange slip of memory, describe as
+“utterly unproductive to the public.” The “<i>peaceful sons of the
+church</i>,” amongst whom, of course, you number the warlike bishops of
+Passau, Strasburgh, Bamberg, Freysingen, Ratisbon, et hoc genus omne,
+knew uncommonly well the value of those <i>unproductive</i> acres.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_31" href="#FNank_31" class="label">[31]</a> Vide Baron von
+Schmidtburg’s ‘Tagebuche einer Donau-Reise.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_32" href="#FNank_32" class="label">[32]</a> The remarkable gorge from Hayenbach to Neuhaus is
+called by the peasantry of the district, “In den Schlägen,” or
+Schlagleiten.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_33" href="#FNank_33" class="label">[33]</a> The Strudel
+and the Wirpel are a fall and whirlpool in the Danube, between Linz and
+Ips, of which hereafter.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_34" href="#FNank_34" class="label">[34]</a> As soon
+as you reach Frankfort, the Prussian dollars and groschen cease to
+circulate generally, and your bill is made out in the money of the
+empire, that is, in florins or gouldens and kreutzers. The florin, or
+goulden, is a mere nominal coin of the value of sixty kreutzers, and
+the silver pieces in circulation are those of 3, 6, 10, 20, and 30
+kreutzers each, so marked on the reverse. In Bavaria, the 10, 20, and
+30 kreutzer pieces go for 12, 24, and 36 kreutzers; so that the gold
+ducat, the real value of which is 4-1/2 florins, will, in Bavaria, pass
+for 4 <i>fl.</i> 54 <i>k.</i>, and sometimes five florins. In Austria,
+however, the silver coins pass for no more than they are marked, and
+the ducat drops to 4 <i>fl.</i> 30 <i>k.</i> The Venetian ducat, which
+is frequently met with in Austria, is worth a few kreutzers more than
+the German ducat. The paper florin, or goulden, is two-fifths, or, as
+the Austrians calculate, four-tenths of a good or silver florin.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_35" href="#FNank_35" class="label">[35]</a> The remark does not say much for the taste or discrimination
+of the Englishman, whoever he might be. There
+is an endless variety upon the Rhine, which yields to the
+Danube only in points of grandeur—in breadth, extent, and
+boldness of scenery. In variety, it quite equals the Danube,
+and, I should almost say, surpasses it.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_36" href="#FNank_36" class="label">[36]</a>
+    Literally “fist-right,”—the right of the strongest arm,—
+  </p>
+  <p class="center">
+    “The good (?) old plan,<br>
+    That they may take who have the power,<br>
+    And they may keep who can.”<br>
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+ <p>
+  <a id="FN_37" href="#FNank_37" class="label">[37]</a> Called, in the
+  chronicles of the times, “Albert with the tress,” because he wore a
+  lock of hair, which he received either from his wife, or from some
+  other distinguished lady, entwined with his own, and formed a society
+  of the Tress, not unlike the commencement of our order of the Garter:
+  he was likewise called the Astrologer, from his fondness for judicial
+  astrology.—Coxe’s ‘History of the House of Austria,’ chap. 10.
+ </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_38" href="#FNank_38" class="label">[38]</a> Fadinger was
+    a strong fatalist. Upon his standards were inscribed, by his order,
+    the words, “Es muss seyn!” “It must be.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_39" href="#FNank_39" class="label">[39]</a> And yet, as
+    was most just, this poor weak bigot was condemned to see some of
+    his dearest hopes frustrated by the treachery of one of his vaunted
+    saints. “A Capuchin friar,” exclaimed the deceived Emperor, when
+    the duplicity of the celebrated Father Joseph became apparent, “has
+    disarmed me with his rosary, and covered six electoral caps with
+    his Cowl.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_40" href="#FNank_40" class="label">[40]</a> Our language
+    is sadly off for feminine terminations. The German, brauerinn,
+    köchinn, gartnerinn, etc. are most badly translated by female
+    brewer, cook-maid, and woman gardener.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_41" href="#FNank_41" class="label">[41]</a> The old
+    rhyming chronicler, Bruschius, says,
+  </p>
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Passibus in longum patet area tota trecentis,<br>
+    In latum centum passibus atque decem.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_42" href="#FNank_42" class="label">[42]</a> A tailor of
+    Linz, named Kellerer, established an asylum for thirty orphans;
+    and in 1734, another tradesman, named Adam Pruner, bequeathed one
+    hundred and eighty-one thousand florins to the poor of the town,
+    the interest of which supports twenty-seven children, twenty-seven
+    men, and twenty-seven women. The Emperor Joseph II. and the
+    Empress Maria Theresa have also founded charities here.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_43" href="#FNank_43" class="label">[43]</a> The Dukes of
+    Austria were afterwards compelled to cede the Tyrol, but Carinthia
+    has ever since that period continued in the possession of their
+    House. Coxe’s Hist. i. 155, Pelzel, Schmidt, Struvius, etc.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_44" href="#FNank_44" class="label">[44]</a> Bruschius
+    tells us of a capuchin, named Waltherus,
+  </p>
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “Qui nondum vinclis conjunctum aut pontibus Istrum Emensus sicco
+dicitur esse pede.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+  <p>Perhaps the river was frozen at that time.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_45" href="#FNank_45" class="label">[45]</a> In the
+    campaign of 1809, damage was done in this little town alone to the
+    amount of 1,326,621 florins.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_46" href="#FNank_46" class="label">[46]</a> Steyereck
+    was once famous for its potteries; but the manufactories have
+    fallen to decay, notwithstanding the fine clay which is still to
+    be found in its neighbourhood.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_47" href="#FNank_47" class="label">[47]</a> In 1787, a
+    stone coffin was dug up in the neighbourhood of Ebelsberg, five
+    feet long, and one foot two inches wide. On the breast of the
+    skeleton within lay a golden ring, of rather an oval shape, and
+    rude workmanship; at its feet was a drinking glass, which had
+    contained some clear liquid, but it was unfortunately broken, and
+    the liquid spilt, in the opening of the coffin. Vide
+    <i>Kurz’ Beträge</i>, 3 Th. S. xvii.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_48" href="#FNank_48" class="label">[48]</a>
+General Jominy gives the following account of this sanguinary affair,
+in his Political and Military Life of Napoleon. “Hiller had abandoned
+the barrier of the Inn without fighting, but he resolved to defend
+the passage of the Traun at the formidable position of Ebersberg. A
+wooden bridge, thirty fathoms long, presented a more fearful obstacle
+than that of Lodi, it being terminated by a walled town, commanded by
+a castle, and crowned by heights of very difficult access. To cross
+this bridge, in the face of thirty thousand men and eighty pieces of
+cannon, was not an easy matter. Massena was not ignorant of Napoleon’s
+intention to turn this impregnable post by Lambach, but the impetuous
+valour of General Cohorn hurried him into a sanguinary enterprise.
+Three Austrian battalions, that had been imprudently left in front of
+the bridge, were overthrown, and driven, at the point of the sword,
+to the gates of the town, which were closed against them. Cohorn
+forced the gates, and penetrated into the principal street. Massena
+supported him first by the rest of Claparede’s division, and then
+by that of Legrand. A desperate conflict was kept up from street to
+street, and from house to house. Claparede had just possessed himself
+of the castle, when Hiller threw four fresh columns into the town, who
+opened themselves a passage with the bayonet. A horrible slaughter
+ensued; several houses took fire that were filled with wounded and
+with combatants, whom the crowded state of the streets prevented from
+escaping. War never presented a more cruel scene. At length, tired with
+carnage, the Austrians abandoned Ebersberg, and our troops debouched
+against the heights, where a still more unequal combat commenced. The
+arrival of Durosnel’s division of cavalry by the right bank, and the
+certainty that his position would be turned by Lannes, decided Hiller
+at length to fall back with all speed upon Enns.... This vigorous blow
+was still more honourable to the French troops, as the greater part
+engaged in this business was composed of soldiers who had never before
+seen a battle. It cost Hiller from six to seven thousand men. We had to
+regret the loss of from four to five thousand brave fellows, a great
+number of whom had fallen a prey to the flames.”—<i>Vie Politique et
+Militaire de Napoléon.</i> 8vo. Paris, 1827, tom. iii. pp. 181-3.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="FN_49" href="#FNank_49" class="label">[49]</a> This
+extraordinary man, the founder of the Bavarian army, and the terror
+of the Protestants, used to boast before the battle of Leipsig, of
+three things—viz. That he had never known woman, never been drunk,
+and never lost a battle. “His strange and terrific aspect,” says
+Schiller, “was in unison with his character. Of low stature, thin,
+with hollow cheeks, a long nose, a broad and wrinkled forehead, large
+whiskers, and a pointed chin, he was generally attired in a Spanish
+doublet of green with slashed sleeves, with a small and peaked hat on
+his head, surmounted by a red feather, which hung down his back. His
+whole aspect recalled to recollection the Duke of Alba, the scourge of
+the Flemings, and his actions were by no means calculated to remove
+the impression.”—<i>Thirty Years’ War</i>, book ii. The author of
+L’Histoire de Gustave Adolphe gives a similar account of his dress
+and person, and adds, that the Maréchal de Grammont, going to see
+him out of curiosity, met him at the head of his army, attired as
+described, and mounted on a little grey hackney, with one pistol only
+at his saddle-bow. “Lorsque le Maréchal s’approcha pour lui faire la
+révérence, Tilly, croyant remarquer qu’il s’étonnoit de le voir dans
+cet équipage, lui dit, Monsieur, vous trouvez peut—être mon habillement
+extraordinaire; j’avoue qu’il n’est pas tout à fait conforme à la mode
+de France, mais il est a mon gré, et cela me suffit. Je pense aussi que
+ma haquenée, et ce pistolet tout seul, vous surprennent pour le moins
+autant que mon accoûtrement; pour que vous n’ayiez pas mauvaise opinion
+du Comte de Tilly, à qui vous faites l’honneur de rendre une visite de
+curiosité, je vous dirai que j’ai gagné sept batailles décisives, sans
+avoir été obligé de tirer une seule fois le pistolet que vous voyez là;
+et mon petit cheval ne m’a jamais abandonné et n’a jamais balancé à
+faire son devoir.”—p. 173.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_50" href="#FNank_50" class="label">[50]</a> There being
+    a place so called in the vicinity of the Strudel.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_51" href="#FNank_51" class="label">[51]</a>
+  </p>
+<div class="center">
+<p class="cc">
+“Zu Enns St. Marx und Lucas lehrt<br>
+Das volck zu Christi Glaub bekehrt.<br>
+<span class="indent2">Hie ward versenkt St. Florian</span><br>
+<span class="indent2">In D’Enns der edle Rittersmann,</span><br>
+Maximilian da Bischoff war,<br>
+Mild gegen Armen immerdar;<br>
+<span class="indent2">Diess langt zu sondern Ruhm der Stadt</span><br>
+<span class="indent2">Die Gott also begnadet hat.”</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_52" href="#FNank_52" class="label">[52]</a> Gibbon, when
+    speaking of this expedition, calls it “the triple effort of a French
+    army that was poured into their (the Avars’) country, by land and
+    water, through the Carpathian mountains, and along the plain of the
+    Danube.” <i>Decline and Fall</i>, vol. ix. p. 184.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_53" href="#FNank_53" class="label">[53]</a> This building
+    is still standing in the north-east quarter of the city. It is now
+    the property of Baron Rumeskirchen.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_54" href="#FNank_54" class="label">[54]</a> In the
+    Niebelunglied, which was compiled about this period, we find Ens
+    mentioned, by its present name, as one of the places visited by
+    Chrimhilt, on her journey into Hungary.
+  </p>
+  <p>
+    “Da sie uber die Traun kamen, bey <i>Ense</i> auf das feld.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_55" href="#FNank_55" class="label">[55]</a> According to
+    an old German writer quoted by Schultes, Ens was a walled city as
+    early as the year 900, and already of some consequence. “Bavari
+    citissime in id ipsum tempus (<span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span>
+    900) pro tuitioni illorum regni validissimam urbem in littore Anesi
+    fluminis muro obposuerunt.” But, in this case, why is it called a
+    village by Leopold, in the twelfth century?
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_56" href="#FNank_56" class="label">[56]</a>
+    Gibbon.—William of Tyre and Matthew Paris reckon seventy
+    thousand loricati in each of the armies led by Conrad and the
+    French king, Louis VII. The light-armed troops, the peasant
+    infantry, the women and children, and the priests and monks,
+    swelled this swarm to an inconceivable extent. “It is affirmed
+    by the Greeks and Latins, that in the passage of a strait or
+    river, the Byzantine agents, after a tale of nine hundred
+    thousand, desisted from the endless and formidable
+    computation.”—<i>Decline and Fall</i>, vol. xl. p. 107.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_57" href="#FNank_57" class="label">[57]</a> This little
+    square tower, which is generally called, from its situation, the
+    Wörther-Schloss, is described in several topographical works
+    indifferently under the name of the Castle of Werfenstein, and
+    the Castle of Struden. But it being clearly apparent from various
+    ancient documents that the Castles of Werfenstein and Struden
+    were two distinct buildings, Herr Schultes has, I think, with
+    good reason, designated this the ruin of Werfenstein, and that
+    which overhangs the little markt of Struden, on the left bank of
+    the river, the Castle of Struden.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_58" href="#FNank_58" class="label">[58]</a> The
+    Waldwasser and the Wildriss, like the Hössgang, are never
+    passable but when the water is very high, and then only by the
+    lightest and smallest craft. The Strudel, though most studded
+    with rocks, is the best, and consequently the general passage for
+    all boats and rafts, either ascending or descending, and has
+    therefore given its name to the whole fall.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_59" href="#FNank_59" class="label">[59]</a> A singular
+    ignorance of the true situation of these famous places is displayed
+    by most of the German writers. Berckenmayer, in his Curiösen
+    Antiquarius, carries the Wirbel below the town of Krems, and he is
+    followed in his error by Strahlenberg, in his Beschreibung des
+    Russichen Reiches, and Hübner, in his Vollständigen Geographie,
+    who speak of the Wirbel as a <i>waterfall</i> near Krems. From
+    Hübner this mistake has been copied into several geographical works,
+    and amongst others into the old Zeitung’s Lexicon; and many of the
+    modern German, and even some English travellers speak of the Strudel
+    and Wirbel as one and the same thing, a confusion which nothing but
+    utter carelessness could have created; the first being distinctly a
+    fall, and the second an eddy, each remarkable in itself, and at
+    some little distance from the other.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_60" href="#FNank_60" class="label">[60]</a> “Inter alios
+    (vortices) famosus ille est, qui aspicitur sub Lincio. Creditur
+    vulgo origo esse lacus Neusidel in Hungaria Cis-Rahabanti.
+    Aspicitur etiam alter sed hoc minor, prope pagum Almas infra
+    Commaronium, qui perhibetur esse origo lacus Balaton.”—Marsigli
+    Danubiani illustr. See also Herbinius de Cataract. Fluv., and
+    Kircher’s Mundus subterraneus.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_61" href="#FNank_61" class="label">[61]</a> Vide
+    Frontispiece. The view was taken from a hill on the right bank of
+    the river, on our return by land from Vienna.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_62" href="#FNank_62" class="label">[62]</a> Here is
+    another error respecting the Strudel. Stockerau is nearly two days
+    journey from it, in the neighbourhood of Vienna.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_63" href="#FNank_63" class="label">[63]</a>
+  </p>
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “<i>Brutus.</i> &nbsp;Speak to me what thou art?<br>
+     &nbsp;Ghost. &nbsp; <i>Thy evil spirit, Brutus.</i><br>
+     &nbsp;<i>Brutus.</i> &nbsp; Why com’st thou?<br>
+     &nbsp;Ghost. &nbsp; <i>To tell thee thou shalt see me at Philippi.</i><br>
+     &nbsp;<i>Brutus.</i> &nbsp; <i>Well,<br>
+     <span class="indent4">Then I shall see thee again?</span>
+     </i><br>
+     &nbsp;Ghost. &nbsp; <i>Ay, at Philippi!</i>”<br>
+     <span class="right">Julius Cæsar, Act iv. Scene 3.</span>
+  </p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_64" href="#FNank_64" class="label">[64]</a> A
+    <i>gast-haus</i> is an hotel; a <i>wirths-haus</i>, a tavern, or
+    ale-house.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_65" href="#FNank_65" class="label">[65]</a> This prodigy
+    will remind the classical reader of the punishment of the Amazons,
+    who attempted to cut down the sacred grove that shadowed the temple
+    of Achilles in the island of Leuce. At the first blows they struck,
+    the axe-heads flew from their handles, and laid the impious
+    wielders dead upon the spot.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_66" href="#FNank_66" class="label">[66]</a> “Kurzer
+    Bericht von dem Ursprung des wunderthätigen schmerzhaften
+    Gnadenbildes Maria-Taferl.” There are numberless tracts of this
+    description sold at Marbach to the pilgrims, who “hold each
+    strange tale devoutly true.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_67" href="#FNank_67" class="label">[67]</a> Fragmentum
+    Historicum de quatuor Albertis—apud Pez. vol. ii. p. 385.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_68" href="#FNank_68" class="label">[68]</a> The regular
+    weekly passage-boats from Ulm, Regensburg, and Stadt-am-hof, to
+    Vienna, are called “ordinari-schiffe.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_69" href="#FNank_69" class="label">[69]</a> “Nie ward
+    getreuer’r Degen geboren auf der Erde.” Nibelungen-lied.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_70" href="#FNank_70" class="label">[70]</a> “Die Fenster
+    in den mauern, die sieht man offen stahn.” Ditto.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_71" href="#FNank_71" class="label">[71]</a> The supposed
+    author of the Nibelungen-lied.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_72" href="#FNank_72" class="label">[72]</a>
+    Nibelungen-lied, V. 1116-23.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_73" href="#FNank_73" class="label">[73]</a> “The castle
+    was begun to be built by Jorig der Schekt-von-wald, the Monday
+    after the nativity of our Lady, from the birth of Christ, the
+    year 1228.” Herr Schultes remarks, that he may be mistaken in the
+    date, and mentions that Petz, in his Chronicle of Mölk, (Part I.
+    p. 261) speaks of a Baron Schekh, whose deeds were as black as
+    those laid at the <i>iron</i> door of Schreckenwald, and who, in
+    1467, was besieged, and brought to such a pass, that “he,” says
+    the chronicler, “who formerly was lord of six castles, perished in
+    poverty.” This Schekh or Sheckt-von-Wald, as the name appears in
+    the inscription, and the famous Schreckenwald, were, most probably,
+    one and the same person; and from the state of the present
+    building I should imagine it is more likely to have been built in
+    the fifteenth than the thirteenth century.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_74" href="#FNank_74" class="label">[74]</a> Matthias
+    Prideaux.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_75" href="#FNank_75" class="label">[75]</a> The present
+    arms of the Archduchy of Austria, viz. Gules, a Fess argent, are
+    derived from the circumstance of Leopold’s surcoat, which was of
+    cloth of silver, being completely stained with blood at the siege
+    of Ptolemais (Acre), with the exception of that part covered by the
+    belt round his waist. The original bearings of Leopold were azure,
+    six larks, or.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_76" href="#FNank_76" class="label">[76]</a> “Yes and No,”
+    one of the many titles given to Richard by the Provençal poets:—
+  </p>
+<div class="center">
+  <p class="cc">
+    “And tell the Lord of Oc and No<br>
+    &nbsp;That peace already too long hath been.”<br><br>
+    Bertrand de Born. <i>Lays of the Minnesingers</i>, p. 233.
+  </p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_77" href="#FNank_77" class="label">[77]</a> “The
+    Troubadour and Richard Cœur de Lion.” Mrs. Hemans, though she
+    mentions “the Danube’s wave” in the same poem, has chosen to lay
+    the scene of Richard’s captivity on the Rhine. Her vivid fancy,
+    however, has actually depicted the rock and castle of Dürrenstein.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_78" href="#FNank_78" class="label">[78]</a> In the cliff
+    upon which this church stands, it is reported that a cavern has
+    been found, which is the mouth of a subterraneous passage,
+    communicating with the vaults of the castle.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_79" href="#FNank_79" class="label">[79]</a> Vie Politique
+    et Militaire de Napoléon, par le Général Jominy. 8vo. Paris, 1827,
+    vol. ii. pp. 151-3.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_80" href="#FNank_80" class="label">[80]</a>
+    Nibelungen-lied, V. 3533-5. It was the residence of his first
+    Queen, Helke, a lady of incomparable virtue.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_81" href="#FNank_81" class="label">[81]</a> I believe I
+    should say <i>were</i>, for the Antiquary of the Danube informs us,
+    that the lady’s maid was exorcised by a “barefooted monk,” and
+    quietly, I presume, laid in the Red Sea. The ghost of quality alone
+    was untractable. This spirit, it appears, had been dismissed from
+    the body by an enraged husband, at the moment of an awkward
+    discovery. The whole history, says the prudent antiquary, is to be
+    found in the archives of a certain noble house; but as it would
+    redound to the prejudice of the descendants, should the name be
+    made known, it has been passed over in silence. Some time ago an
+    attempt was made to pull down the building, but the indignant
+    phantom raised such a racket, that the workmen beat a retreat, and
+    the project was abandoned.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_82" href="#FNank_82" class="label">[82]</a> Much gold has
+    really been found in the sands of the Danube, the Inn, and the
+    Iser, and several <i>gold-waschereys</i>, as they are called, have
+    formerly existed on the banks of these rivers. The peculiar wealth
+    of the sands at Langenlebern has been accounted for, by the
+    peasantry, from the circumstance of Draculf, Bishop of Freysing,
+    being drowned off this bank, A.D. 926, and carrying down with him
+    forty pounds weight of gold, which he had smuggled out of the
+    Kloster of Mosburg, and had secured in his girdle!
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_83" href="#FNank_83" class="label">[83]</a> On some old
+    weapons in the Rüstkammer or armoury of the castle, the arms of the
+    house of Greifenstein are yet to be seen so blazoned.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_84" href="#FNank_84" class="label">[84]</a> A square hole
+    in the earth with an iron grating over it is still shown here as
+    the place of confinement of some clergyman, who shared his crust
+    with a young snake, that thrived so wonderfully upon prison
+    allowance, that self-preservation at last compelled him to kill it
+    while asleep with a stick, that is also shown in the dungeon.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_85" href="#FNank_85" class="label">[85]</a> It was
+    originally called Neuenburg, Neuenburch, and Niwenburg, and
+    appears to have been strongly fortified.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_86" href="#FNank_86" class="label">[86]</a> Albert IV.,
+    Duke of Austria, died here on the 14th of September, 1404, in the
+    twenty-seventh year of his age; and the Empress Wilhelmina Amelia,
+    widow of Joseph I., also ended her days here in April 1742.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+  <a id="FN_87" href="#FNank_87" class="label">[87]</a> This Emperor,
+  who, to use his own words, “with the best intentions, never carried
+  a single project into execution,” in his laudable attempts to
+  purify religion from the dregs of superstition, reduced the number
+  of convents in Austria from two thousand and twenty-four, to seven
+  hundred. Vide Coxe’s <i>History of the House of Austria</i>. The
+  learned Archdeacon has justly and eloquently described the character
+  of the kind-hearted but inconsistent Joseph; but I am at a loss to
+  know why a Christian minister should include the following ordinance
+  amongst “the <i>childish</i> and <i>ridiculous</i> regulations” of
+  the Emperor. “Thou shalt forbear all occasions of dispute relative to
+  matters of faith; and thou shalt, according to the true principles of
+  Christianity, affectionately and kindly treat those who are not of
+  thy communion.” (Ord. October 24, 1781.)
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_88" href="#FNank_88" class="label">[88]</a> “That’s
+    fine!” or, as we should say, “capital.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_89" href="#FNank_89" class="label">[89]</a> “Ruhet sanft
+    auf diesen höhen edle gebeine tapferer Oesterreichs Krieger; Ruhm
+    bedeckt bey Aspern und Wagram gefallen vermag euer freund nicht,
+    die entseelten leichname zu beleben; sie zu ehren ist seine
+    pflicht.”
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_90" href="#FNank_90" class="label">[90]</a> Yes, there
+    is another. On the gates of the castle are daubed two sentinels
+    armed cap à pied! Forcibly recalling to my memory the figures
+    painted in the sentry-boxes, which were wont to delight and
+    terrify me when an urchin, and cause many a clandestine expedition
+    to Bayswater tea-gardens.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_91" href="#FNank_91" class="label">[91]</a> The oldest
+    piece of armour I have seen in Germany, is in the collection at the
+    Lowenburg, at Wilhelmshöe. It is a moveable visor of the close of
+    the fourteenth century; but both possessors and exhibitors are
+    evidently ignorant of its value and antiquity.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+  <p>
+    <a id="FN_92" href="#FNank_92" class="label">[92]</a>
+    “Blue-House,”—this, however, is a corruption. The name of
+    Blaue-Haus is derived, not from the ancient colour of its walls,
+    as the vulgar suppose, but from the family of Plauenstein, its
+    original possessors.
+  </p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<!-- T R A N S C R I B E R S   N O T E S -->
+
+<div class="chapter transnote">
+<p class="center s4 ">TRANSCRIBERS' NOTES</p>
+<p>
+Spelling, including inconsistent usage and forms reflecting local,
+historical, or foreign-language usage, has been retained as printed.
+This includes apparent misspellings in German names or words
+(e.g. Thurm/Thurn), which have not been changed.
+</p>
+<p>
+Minor inconsistencies in spacing and punctuation have been silently
+standardized.
+</p>
+<p>
+Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected (e.g.
+"astonishings pectacle").
+</p>
+<p>
+New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the
+public domain.
+</p>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78472 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
+
diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_a001.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_a001.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2d5b398
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-h/images/i_a001.jpg
diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_b018.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_b018.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..db5bbf8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-h/images/i_b018.jpg
diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_c001.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_c001.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2b1c4c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-h/images/i_c001.jpg
diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_c036.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_c036.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9632bbb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-h/images/i_c036.jpg
diff --git a/78472-h/images/i_cover.jpg b/78472-h/images/i_cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..adfff53
--- /dev/null
+++ b/78472-h/images/i_cover.jpg
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6c72794
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..07c1472
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78472
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78472)