Initial commit of ebook 77757 filesHEAD main

author: www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> 2026-01-23 15:18:34 -0800
committer: www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> 2026-01-23 15:18:34 -0800
commit: cf515434099745585962177a2ed96a09676b6b69 (patch)
tree: 360fa7498d53e5d5645d32078623369eabeb6e64 /77757-h
11 files changed, 887 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/77757-h/77757-h.htm b/77757-h/77757-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cfed4c0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/77757-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,887 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+    <meta charset="UTF-8">
+    <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1">
+    <title>
+      Bookbinding self taught | Project Gutenberg
+    </title>
+    <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover">
+    <style>
+
+body {
+    margin-left: 10%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+h1,h2,h3,h4 {
+    text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+    clear: both;
+}
+h1 { margin: 1em 5% 1em; /* use for book title */
+     font-size: 160%;}
+h2 { margin:2em 5% 1em; /* use for chapter headings */
+     font-size: 140%;}
+h3 { margin: 2em 5% 1em;
+      font-size: 120%;}
+h4 { margin: 2em 5% 1em;
+      font-size: 110%;}
+h2.nobreak  {page-break-before: avoid;}
+
+div.chapter {page-break-before: always;
+             margin-top: 4em;}
+
+p { text-indent: 1.25em;
+    margin-top: .51em;
+    text-align: justify;
+    margin-bottom: .49em;}
+.p2       {margin-top: 2em;}
+.p4       {margin-top: 4em;}
+.unindent {text-indent: 0em;
+            margin-top: .51em;
+            text-align: justify;
+            margin-bottom: .49em;}
+.center   {text-align: center;}
+.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;}
+
+a { border:none; text-decoration:none; font-variant:normal; }
+abbr { border:none; text-decoration:none; font-variant:normal; }
+
+/* Font styling */
+.xxl {font-size: 220%;}
+
+hr {
+    width: 33%;
+    margin-top: 2em;
+    margin-bottom: 2em;
+    margin-left: 33.5%;
+    margin-right: 33.5%;
+    clear: both;
+}
+
+hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;}
+@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} }
+
+ul { list-style-type: none; }
+
+table {
+    margin-left: auto;
+    margin-right: auto;
+}
+table.autotable    { border-collapse: collapse; }
+table.autotable td,
+table.autotable th { padding: 0.25em; }
+
+.tdl      {text-align: left;}
+.tdr      {text-align: right;}
+.tdc      {text-align: center;}
+
+.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+    /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+    position: absolute;
+    left: 92%;
+    font-size: 80%;
+    text-align: right;
+    font-style: normal;
+    font-weight: normal;
+    font-variant: normal;
+    text-indent: 0;
+} /* page numbers */
+
+blockquote {
+    margin-top: 0;
+    margin-bottom: 0;
+    margin-left: 5%;
+    margin-right: 10%;
+}
+
+
+figcaption   {font-weight: normal;}
+figcaption p {margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 1.2em; text-align: inherit;}
+
+/* Images */
+
+img {
+    max-width: 100%;
+    height: auto;
+}
+img.w100 {width: 100%;}
+
+.figcenter {
+    margin: auto;
+    text-align: center;
+    page-break-inside: avoid;
+    max-width: 100%;
+}
+
+
+/* Transcriber's notes */
+.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA;
+    color: black;
+    font-size:small;
+    padding:0.5em;
+    margin-bottom:5em;
+    font-family:sans-serif, serif;
+}
+
+
+/* Illustration classes */
+.illowp100 {width: 100%;}
+.illowp95 {width: 95%;}
+.x-ebookmaker .illowp95 {width: 100%;}
+    </style>
+</head>
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77757 ***</div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<!--<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span>-->
+
+<table>
+<tr><td class="tdl"><b>LITTLE BLUE BOOK NO.</b></td>
+    <td class="tdc xxl" rowspan="2">1192</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="tdl"><b>Edited by E. Haldeman-Julius</b></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<h1>
+Bookbinding<br>
+Self Taught
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Ben Davidson</b></p>
+
+<p class="p4 center">HALDEMAN-JULIUS PUBLICATIONS<br>
+GIRARD, KANSAS</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<!--<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span>-->
+
+<p class="p4 center">
+Copyright, 1927,<br>
+Haldeman-Julius Company
+</p>
+
+<p class="p4 center allsmcap">
+PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<!--<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span>-->
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">
+    CONTENTS
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<table class="autotable">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdr">Page</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">1. Little Blue Book Covers</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">2. Tools and Materials</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">3. Stitching</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">4. Binding</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">5. Rebinding Old Books</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">6. Loose Leaf Scrap Books</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tdl">7. Lettering</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a><a id="Page_5"></a>[Pg 5]</span></p>
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="BOOKBINDING_SELF_TAUGHT">
+    BOOKBINDING SELF TAUGHT
+  </h2>
+<h3>
+1. LITTLE BLUE BOOK COVERS
+</h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>The satisfaction derived from rebinding torn
+covered books from my library has actuated me
+in preparing this Little Blue Book. I am the
+possessor of several hundred copies of the
+Little Blue Books, for which I have made a
+number of linen holders. To begin, therefore,
+with just such a simple proposition as the
+making of a linen cover or holder for one of the
+Blue Books would be a good start.</p>
+
+<p>All you need is a piece of linen cloth, some
+thin card-board, white paste, scissors and a
+small brush which can be purchased at the
+five and ten-cent store. Also a ruler.</p>
+
+<p>The Blue Book being 5 inches high and 3½
+inches wide, cut two pieces of cardboard to
+measure 5¼ inches high and 3⅝ inches wide,
+thus making the card-board protrude ⅛ of an
+inch at the top and bottom and ⅛ of an inch
+on the side.</p>
+
+<p>Now, measure the back of the Blue Book. As
+there is no uniform size, and since the backs of
+the Blue Books vary from ⅛ to ⅜ of an inch,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span>allow ¼-inch for the back. If you were making
+a permanent cover for the Blue Book, you
+would have to measure its back exactly, but
+for a removable linen holder ¼-inch will suffice.</p>
+
+<p>You are now ready to measure and cut the
+cloth. Be sure to measure your cloth at a right
+angle and leave ½-inch extra at the top and
+bottom and right side. In cutting the length
+and width of your linen, you will be guided
+by the following figures: Length, ½ plus 5¼
+plus ½ or 6¼ inches from top to bottom;
+width, 2½ plus 3⅝ plus ¼ plus 3⅝ plus ½ or
+10½ inches from left to right (the 2½ inches
+at the left is for the holder or pocket). Having
+cut your cloth 10½ inches by 6¼ inches, lay it
+down flat upon the table, and draw parallel
+lines ½ inch from the top and ½ inch from
+the bottom. Then draw perpendicular lines
+from the right as follows: ½-inch, 3⅝ inches,
+¼-inch, and 3⅝ inches again. By drawing
+these parallel and perpendicular lines correctly,
+you will know just where to place the two
+(5¼ × 3⅝) cardboards. The diagram on your
+cloth will look something like Figure 1.</p>
+
+<p>You are now ready to paste the card-boards
+in the spaces outlined in Figure 1. Place the
+cardboard on a piece of waste or newspaper;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span>then dip your brush in a little water before
+applying the paste so as to get an even moisture;
+and give the cardboard a smooth coating
+of paste. In doing this paste work properly,
+it is good to have a supply of waste or newspaper
+at hand; also, a rough towel and a wastebasket.
+Having applied a smooth coating of
+paste to the cardboard, place it within the lines
+of the right frame (see Figure 1) and rub the
+surface of the cardboard with a clean piece of
+cloth; until you feel sure that it has been properly
+pasted. Do the same with the remaining
+cardboard and place it in the adjoining frame
+(see Figure 1).</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p07" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p07.jpg" alt="cardboard layout">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 1</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p>
+
+<p>Fold and crease the 2½ inches of cloth at
+your left, so that it will lay flat upon the left
+cardboard. At the top and bottom ends of this
+crease, and within the ½-inch of the overlapping
+margins of each end, cut out a piece of
+cloth in the shape of a V (see Figure 2). Also,
+at the top and bottom end of the 2½ inches
+of cloth, and within the ½-inch margins of
+both these ends, cut out two more pieces of
+cloth in the shape of V (see Figure 2).</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p08" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p08.jpg" alt="cloth layout">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 2</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>As the cloth pocket-folder at your left is
+lying flat upon the left cardboard, fold both
+ends of the ½-inch margins of the pocket-folder
+inside, so that the margins will rest
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span>between the left cardboard and the pocket
+cloth. Take a piece of white paper 5⅛ × 2¼
+and insert ¾-inch of the left side in the pocket-folder,
+so that ¾-inch at the top and bottom
+of the left sheet will rest right into the folded
+crease on the inside of the pocket-folder. Paste
+the back of the right side of the sheet on the
+left cardboard and the ¼-inch back of the
+book; there will still be left ¼-inch which can
+be pasted on the adjoining right cardboard.
+Now, paste the ½-inch margins at the top and
+bottom of the pocket holder, and fold them
+over so that they will rest outside the pocket
+(see Figure 3). Paste the remaining ½-inch
+margins at the top, bottom and right (one at a
+time) and turn them in; first, the top margin,
+then the margin at the bottom, the margin at
+the right being last. It will be necessary to cut
+out a small bit of cloth at the top and bottom
+of the right margin corners. As two margins
+meet each other at the corner of a book&#x2060;—each
+margin being ¼-inch wide&#x2060;—you find a corner
+margin ½-inch square that is not needed, and
+can be cut out; but, by a little practice, the
+corner can be so manipulated, as to make two
+right-angled triangles and by cutting the triangle
+facing toward you, make a more finished
+corner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p>
+
+<p>The margins being properly pasted inside the
+covers, take a sheet of paper (white) 5 × 3½
+and paste over the right cardboard and part
+of the pasted margins, leaving ⅛-inch from
+the top, bottom and right side. This finishes
+your linen book holder and you can now insert
+the left cover of your Blue Book into the
+pocket of the linen holder.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp95" id="p11" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p11.jpg" alt="cover in pocket">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 3</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p>
+  <h3 id="2_TOOLS_AND_MATERIALS">
+    2. TOOLS AND MATERIALS
+    FOR BOOKBINDING
+  </h3>
+</div>
+
+<ul>
+  <li>Sewing Bench</li>
+  <li>Flat Press</li>
+  <li>Steel-faced Backing Boards</li>
+  <li>Hammer</li>
+  <li>Scissors</li>
+  <li>Folder (bone)</li>
+  <li>Hack Saw</li>
+  <li>Glue Pot</li>
+  <li>Brushes, Paste</li>
+  <li>Ruler</li>
+  <li>Cutter</li>
+  <li>Cloth</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>The Sewing Bench is a wooden frame, consisting
+of four attached pieces of wood&#x2060;—1 flat
+piece 18 inches long by 8 inches wide; two
+upright pieces of wood, each piece being 1 foot
+long and an inch square. These two pieces of
+wood are attached at the left and right front ends
+of the flat piece perpendicularly, so that
+the two pieces are parallel to each other. Another
+piece of wood 18 inches long and 1 inch
+square connects the two uprights, and you have
+a sewing bench (see Figure 4).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p13" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p13.jpg" alt="sewing bench">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 4—Sewing Bench with 3 cords attached.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>A small wooden press, which is used to give
+the book or its number of parts a good squeeze
+before the binding, can be made of two flat
+pieces of strong wood and made to come as
+close together with the aid of a metal vise.
+(The press can also be purchased for about
+$3.75.)</p>
+
+<p>The steel-faced backing boards are used after
+the book is finished; the book being placed
+between the two boards with the protruding
+pieces of brass resting in the creases of the
+book. This can also be done with the aid of a
+metal vise. The steel-faced backing boards are
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span>made up of two pieces of strong wood 18 inches
+long and 12 inches wide and about 1 inch thick.
+At one of the long ends of each of these boards
+a piece of steel or brass is so attached as to
+protrude about ⅛ of an inch. These boards can
+also be purchased at a nominal cost at any
+business house dealing in Bookbinders’ Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>The other tools, such as paste, hammer,
+brush, scissors, etc., can be purchased at any
+hardware or five and ten-cent store.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span></p>
+  <h3 id="3_STITCHING">
+    3. STITCHING
+  </h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>For the beginner who wishes to learn book
+binding in all its parts, it is advisable to take
+apart some old inexpensive book or magazine.
+In doing so, he will observe how the numerous
+pages are joined together by parts or “signatures”
+and then stitched. In taking an old book
+apart, one can’t help noticing how the covers
+were attached and how the back of the book
+was glued.</p>
+
+<p>The average book, containing several hundred
+pages, is divided into a certain number of parts
+or sections. A section is made up of 8 pages
+or 16 sides. A book of 320 sides consists of
+160 pages or 20 sections.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing to stitch the sections of a book
+together, be sure to have each section in its
+proper place, before placing it on the sewing
+bench. Mark the first page of each section 1,
+2, 3, etc. In order to insure a uniform width
+of all the sections, place them into the wooden
+press, so that the back of each section will be
+properly squeezed. Now, have all the backs
+protrude ¼-inch out of the press; and with a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span>plain hack saw, make the holes as follows:
+½-inch across from each end of the section,
+across the center, and two times across, between
+the center and each end-hole. (The last
+two being half way between the center and
+end-holes.) These holes are made for the cotton
+or stitching cord to pass through. Be careful
+in cutting, so as not to make the holes too
+deep. Cut as deep as the teeth of the saw.</p>
+
+<p>Three cords are attached to the bar of the
+sewing bench. These cords are fastened to the
+base. As a section of the book is placed upon
+the sewing bench, the center hole and the ones
+to the left and the right of the center, are
+placed in front of these cords, so that the three
+cords will cover the three holes. Thread your
+needle, and begin stitching from the outside of
+the end-hole at your right; and, as the cotton
+is drawn inside and outside of the section, it
+will entwine the three cords. As you finish
+stitching one section, run your needle around
+the stitch underneath it and make a knot.
+These knots hold all the sections together.</p>
+
+<p>After all the sections are properly stitched,
+cut the three cords, leaving an inch or so from
+each end. These extra pieces of cord are
+threaded and later used as part of the attachment
+of the book to the covers (see Figure 5).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span></p>
+<p>When all the sections are stitched and properly
+knotted, the book is ready to be bound.
+End-sheets are then cut to measure the length
+and width of the book to be bound.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p18" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p18.jpg" alt="inside stitches">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 5—Showing the inside stitch of a section</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span></p>
+  <h3 id="4_BINDING">
+    4. BINDING
+  </h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>Suppose the book to be bound is 8 inches
+long, 5 inches wide and 1 inch thick. The end-sheet
+can be cut 8 × 10 and folded in half.
+Usually, two such sheets are cut, and pasted
+over each other. The top sheet being re-enforced
+by a strip of white linen 8 × 1½, leaving
+¾ of an inch on each side of the crease. The
+end-sheets are then pasted with a half inch
+margin of paste, and placed over the first and
+last sheet of the book.</p>
+
+<p>The back of the book is now ready to be
+glued; it is placed between two cardboards,
+and then placed between two contracting
+boards, leaving the back of the book protruding
+enough to be glued freely. The glue, being
+properly prepared, is applied to the back of the
+book with a stiff brush. The headbands or
+trimmings are then cut 1⅛ inches and placed
+on each end of the back. These headbands
+are more of an ornament, and most books today
+are bound without them.</p>
+
+<p>The book being 8 inches long and one inch
+thick, cut a piece of cheese cloth 8 inches long
+and 4 inches wide, and place over the glued
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span>back so that 1½ inches of the cloth will lap
+over each side of the book. A strip of heavy
+paper 8 × 1 inches is cut and placed over the
+glued cheese cloth back. Leave the book in
+this position for a while to dry.</p>
+
+<p>The next step is the cutting of cloth and
+cardboards for the cover. The book being 8
+inches long and 5 inches wide, the cardboards
+should be cut 8¼ inches long and 4⅝ inches
+wide. (In making a flat back the width of the
+cardboards would be 5⅛.) By cutting the cardboards
+8¼ inches long, you allow ⅛ inch to
+protrude at the top and the bottom; and by
+cutting the cardboards 4⅝ inches wide, you
+allow a space of ¼ inch adjacent to each side
+of the back of the book for the crease, and ⅛
+of an inch margin wider than the book.</p>
+
+<p>To give the book&#x2060;—8 inches long, 5 inches
+wide and 1 inch thick&#x2060;—a whole cloth binding
+it is necessary to measure the cloth as follows:
+length, ½ plus 8 and ¼ plus ½ (the half inches
+for margins at each end, and the 8¼ inches for
+the cardboards) making the length of your
+cloth 9¼ inches. In measuring the width of
+the book, allow space for the back, covers,
+creases and margins. The width, therefore,
+would be measured as follows: ½ plus 4⅝ plus
+¼ plus 1 plus ¼ plus 4⅝ plus ½, making the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span>total width 12¼ inches (see Figure 6). We now
+have the following measurements for the whole
+cloth covering of the book: Full length of
+cloth 9¼ inches. Full width of cloth 12¼
+inches.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p22" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p22.jpg" alt="whole cloth binding">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 6</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<ul>
+  <li>aa—Card-boards 8¼ × 4⅝</li>
+  <li>bb—Space for creases ¼ inch wide</li>
+  <li>c—Space for 1-inch back</li>
+  <li>dd—½-inch margins at the top and bottom</li>
+  <li>ee—½-inch margins at the left and right</li>
+</ul>
+<br>
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span></p>
+<p>A piece of heavy paper 8¼ × 1 inch should be
+pasted over the 1-inch back to reinforce it.
+Paste the top margin and turn in; then the
+bottom margin. Now you have four corners to
+adjust before turning in the side margins. At
+each corner, you have a piece of cloth a half
+inch square, facing you, a part of which is
+unnecessary. With the aid of your thumb,
+manipulate the half inch square of cloth in
+such a way as to make two right-angle triangles;
+and cut the triangle facing you. Repeat
+the same process with the three remaining
+corners; and then turn in your left and right
+half inch margins. This completes your cover.</p>
+
+<p>If you wish to put any letters, designs or
+title on your cover, now would be the proper
+time&#x2060;—for beginners. The subject of lettering
+will be taken up in another chapter.</p>
+
+<p>To cover the same book with two different
+materials, such as cloth and paper or leather
+and cloth, it is customary to have the back
+and the corners of the book bound in the same
+material. Given the dimensions of any book,
+the rule is the same, in so far as allowing so
+much for the margin, ¼ inch for the crease on
+each side adjoining the back of the book.</p>
+
+<p>In binding a book 9¼ inches long, 6¼ inches
+wide and 1½ inches thick with a buckram back
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span>and corners and linen or paper sides, measure
+and cut the buckram as follows: 1½ back, ¼
+plus ¼ for the creases on each side, and 1½
+plus 1½ inches buckram extra on each side of
+the cover. The total width being 5 inches.
+The length would be 9¼ and ½ plus ½ or 10¼
+inches. The four buckram corners should be
+cut in four right angle triangles.</p>
+
+<p>If each corner of the cover is to have a 2½-inch
+right angle triangle in buckram, cut two
+pieces of buckram 3½ inches square; which
+allows for a ½-inch margin&#x2060;—all around&#x2060;—to turn
+in. Cut both the squares along the opposite
+points or the hypotenuse and you have your
+four right-angle triangles (see Figure 7).</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p24" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p24.jpg" alt="corner cover layout">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 7—Pattern for the four corners. Dotted
+    lines represent the margins.</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p>
+<p>The paper or cloth used to cover the rest of
+the book should be measured and cut as follows:
+length 9¼ inches and ½ plus ½ or 10¼
+inches. The width will be 5¼ inches. About
+2¾ inches will have to be cut away from the
+side covers to make place for the buckram
+corners. To do this work properly, bind your
+book first with the buckram back and corners;
+and then apply the side coverings (see Figure
+8).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p26" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p26.jpg" alt="Outside cover binding">
+  <figcaption>
+   <p class="unindent">
+    Figure 8—Outside cover of a book bound in two
+    materials. Buckram for back and corners;
+    cloth or paper for the sides.
+  </p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span></p>
+<p class="p2">Having attached the cardboards to the buckram
+back and corners, take the cloth or paper
+to be used for the side covering, and place one
+end (lengthwise) parallel with the buckram;
+allowing the cloth to lay on a ¼-inch margin
+of the buckram. Take a “bone” or letter opener
+and run the end along the cloth, so that the
+slant of the buckram corners will leave its
+impression upon the cloth or paper that you
+are using. Do the same with the other side.
+You now have four slant impressions on your
+cloth; and by cutting your piece of cloth ¼
+inch away from the slants, but parallel to it,
+you will have an exact covering.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span></p>
+  <h3 id="5_REBINDING_OLD_BOOKS">
+    5. REBINDING OLD BOOKS
+  </h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some books only need new covers&#x2060;—the binding
+being strong. In removing the old covers,
+care should be taken not to cut any of the knots
+or stitches; otherwise the book will come apart.
+Also, in removing the back which usually contains
+the title, you may wish to repaste the
+title to the new covering. If the pages of the
+book are loose and merit restitching, remove
+the dry glue from the back of the book. The
+use of a pen knife, sand paper and a wet sponge
+will be necessary to remove the glue properly.
+The glue being properly removed from the
+back of the book, the sections will come apart
+readily. Remove the old stitchings from each
+section; and also examine the back of each
+part. If it is torn or worn out, re-enforce it
+with a thin slip of strong tissue paper one inch
+wide; so that ½ inch will rest on each side of
+the crease. The length of the tissue paper will
+depend, of course, upon the length of the page
+being repaired. Having taken the sections
+apart, you now proceed in the same manner as
+described in the chapter on Stitching.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span></p>
+  <h3 id="6_LOOSE_LEAF_SCRAP_BOOKS">
+    6. LOOSE LEAF SCRAP BOOKS
+  </h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>The covers for a loose leaf scrap book can
+be made without a back. Measure and cut the
+cardboard ⅛ of an inch larger on all sides
+than the pages. Also, leave a ½-inch cloth
+margin on all sides. After the covers are finished,
+cut holes in their proper places&#x2060;—usually
+two at the back of each cover. Holes are cut
+in the pages to correspond with the holes in
+the cover. Two rings are run through the covers
+and pages; and your scrap or note-book is
+finished (see Figure 9). A hole puncher and
+rings can be had at a hardware store or at
+the “five and ten.”</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p29" style="max-width: 43.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p29.jpg" alt="Covers with holes for rings">
+  <figcaption>
+      <p>Figure 9</p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span></p>
+  <h3 id="7_LETTERING">
+    7. LETTERING
+  </h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>Bookbinders’ ink can be purchased in small
+tin tubes. They come in all colors; but the
+dark colors are best for the beginner. The light
+colors&#x2060;—especially white&#x2060;—do not leave a clear
+impression upon the cloth. To do this work
+properly, it is necessary to have a tool-press, a
+small supply of printer’s type, and a small
+roller. The tool-press is a metal device to hold
+the type fast; and is made of a brass oblong
+frame with two screws. The frame is movable,
+and the screws are used to widen or narrow it
+according to the title of the book.</p>
+
+<p>Suppose the title to be printed upon the back
+of the book is PILGRIM’S PROGRESS; and
+the back of the book is one inch wide. You
+will have to print PILGRIM’S PROGRESS on
+two lines&#x2060;—each line being less than an inch.
+The type used would be about the same size
+as the capital letters of a typewriting machine.</p>
+
+<p>Place the letters “PILGRIM’S” in the tool-press.
+Hold the tool-press with its back facing
+you, and set the type from left to right. Open
+your tube of printers’ ink and squeeze a small
+bit on a piece of glass. Place the small roller
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span>over the ink; and keep on rolling back and
+forth until you have a smooth thin layer of
+ink on your roller. Apply the roller to the
+title once or twice, and, holding the handle of
+the tool-press tightly, press the letters upon the
+back of the book. Increase the pressure for a
+few seconds, and remove the tool-press. In
+order to ensure the title being placed properly,
+draw a light horizontal line on the back of the
+book, and place the type right under it.</p>
+
+<p>Having printed the word “PILGRIM’S” on the
+back of your book, remove the type from your
+tool-press, and set up PROGRESS in the same
+way&#x2060;—repeating the same process. The word
+PROGRESS should be printed about ¾ of an
+inch below PILGRIM’S.</p>
+
+<p>Before impressing the title upon the book,
+the beginner is advised to try it first on a
+piece of waste cloth or heavy paper. Only
+after you have made a clear and good impression
+upon the scrap of cloth, should you do the
+book.</p>
+
+<p>After this is done, leave the printed title to
+dry and then attach the cover to the book in
+the manner described under “Binding.” Also,
+remove the surplus ink from the type, roller
+and glass. Use a little kerosene oil on a tooth
+brush for the cleaning of the type; and some
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span>cotton waste for the roller and glass. Apply a
+little kerosene to the cotton waste, and apply it
+to the roller, until all the ink is removed. Do
+the same for the glass.</p>
+
+<p>To use dark colors such as black, blue or
+brown, it is necessary to employ a light cloth;
+or print the title on a white cloth and paste
+the white over the dark cloth. White ink on
+a dark cloth tends to blur; and Bookbinders
+use instead a chemical called praeger leaf. It
+looks like a sheet of paper with a coating of
+white chalk on one side. Apply several drops
+from the white of an egg (size) on the cloth.
+Place a small strip of praeger leaf over it.
+Heat the type to be used for several minutes
+(place in oven) and then apply it on the
+praeger leaf. The heat of the type melts the
+impression upon the cloth, and the “size”
+(white of an egg) makes it stick. Gold lettering
+with the use of gold leaf is done the same
+way.</p>
+
+<p>Here too it is advisable to experiment on
+pieces of scrap cloth several times, and remember,
+“If at first you don’t succeed, try, try
+again.”</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter transnote">
+  <h4 id="Transcribers_Note">
+    Transcriber’s Note:
+  </h4>
+
+<p>One misspelled word was corrected, one extraneous hyphen
+    was removed, and one unprinted letter was added.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77757 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/77757-h/images/cover.jpg b/77757-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e206741
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p07.jpg b/77757-h/images/p07.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8525ded
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p07.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p08.jpg b/77757-h/images/p08.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fdd12ad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p08.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p11.jpg b/77757-h/images/p11.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3afff49
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p11.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p13.jpg b/77757-h/images/p13.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7f6faff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p13.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p18.jpg b/77757-h/images/p18.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e2d8717
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p18.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p22.jpg b/77757-h/images/p22.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..afa39c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p22.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p24.jpg b/77757-h/images/p24.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e022838
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p24.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p26.jpg b/77757-h/images/p26.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fd71d7d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p26.jpg
diff --git a/77757-h/images/p29.jpg b/77757-h/images/p29.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..150ea87
--- /dev/null
+++ b/77757-h/images/p29.jpg
author	www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org>	2026-01-23 15:18:34 -0800
committer	www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org>	2026-01-23 15:18:34 -0800
commit	cf515434099745585962177a2ed96a09676b6b69 (patch)
tree	360fa7498d53e5d5645d32078623369eabeb6e64 /77757-h