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| author | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-01-23 15:18:34 -0800 |
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| committer | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-01-23 15:18:34 -0800 |
| commit | cf515434099745585962177a2ed96a09676b6b69 (patch) | |
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| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | bookbinding_v1.txt | 487 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/77757-h/77757-h.htm b/77757-h/77757-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cfed4c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/77757-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,887 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <title> + Bookbinding self taught | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2,h3,h4 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} +h1 { margin: 1em 5% 1em; /* use for book title */ + font-size: 160%;} +h2 { margin:2em 5% 1em; /* use for chapter headings */ + font-size: 140%;} +h3 { margin: 2em 5% 1em; + font-size: 120%;} +h4 { margin: 2em 5% 1em; + font-size: 110%;} +h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always; + margin-top: 4em;} + +p { text-indent: 1.25em; + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em;} +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} +.unindent {text-indent: 0em; + margin-top: .51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .49em;} +.center {text-align: center;} +.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} + +a { border:none; text-decoration:none; font-variant:normal; } +abbr { border:none; text-decoration:none; font-variant:normal; } + +/* Font styling */ +.xxl {font-size: 220%;} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} +@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } + +ul { list-style-type: none; } + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} +table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; } +table.autotable td, +table.autotable th { padding: 0.25em; } + +.tdl {text-align: left;} +.tdr {text-align: right;} +.tdc {text-align: center;} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: 80%; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-indent: 0; +} /* page numbers */ + +blockquote { + margin-top: 0; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + +figcaption {font-weight: normal;} +figcaption p {margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 1.2em; text-align: inherit;} + +/* Images */ + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} +img.w100 {width: 100%;} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:small; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} + + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowp100 {width: 100%;} +.illowp95 {width: 95%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp95 {width: 100%;} + </style> +</head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77757 ***</div> + +<div class="chapter"> +<!--<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span>--> + +<table> +<tr><td class="tdl"><b>LITTLE BLUE BOOK NO.</b></td> + <td class="tdc xxl" rowspan="2">1192</td> +</tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"><b>Edited by E. Haldeman-Julius</b></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h1> +Bookbinding<br> +Self Taught +</h1> + +<p class="center"><b>Ben Davidson</b></p> + +<p class="p4 center">HALDEMAN-JULIUS PUBLICATIONS<br> +GIRARD, KANSAS</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<!--<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span>--> + +<p class="p4 center"> +Copyright, 1927,<br> +Haldeman-Julius Company +</p> + +<p class="p4 center allsmcap"> +PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA +</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<!--<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span>--> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS"> + CONTENTS + </h2> +</div> + + +<table class="autotable"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"></td> +<td class="tdr">Page</td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">1. Little Blue Book Covers</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">2. Tools and Materials</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">3. Stitching</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">4. Binding</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">5. Rebinding Old Books</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">6. Loose Leaf Scrap Books</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr><td class="tdl">7. Lettering</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a><a id="Page_5"></a>[Pg 5]</span></p> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="BOOKBINDING_SELF_TAUGHT"> + BOOKBINDING SELF TAUGHT + </h2> +<h3> +1. LITTLE BLUE BOOK COVERS +</h3> +</div> + +<p>The satisfaction derived from rebinding torn +covered books from my library has actuated me +in preparing this Little Blue Book. I am the +possessor of several hundred copies of the +Little Blue Books, for which I have made a +number of linen holders. To begin, therefore, +with just such a simple proposition as the +making of a linen cover or holder for one of the +Blue Books would be a good start.</p> + +<p>All you need is a piece of linen cloth, some +thin card-board, white paste, scissors and a +small brush which can be purchased at the +five and ten-cent store. Also a ruler.</p> + +<p>The Blue Book being 5 inches high and 3½ +inches wide, cut two pieces of cardboard to +measure 5¼ inches high and 3⅝ inches wide, +thus making the card-board protrude ⅛ of an +inch at the top and bottom and ⅛ of an inch +on the side.</p> + +<p>Now, measure the back of the Blue Book. As +there is no uniform size, and since the backs of +the Blue Books vary from ⅛ to ⅜ of an inch, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span>allow ¼-inch for the back. If you were making +a permanent cover for the Blue Book, you +would have to measure its back exactly, but +for a removable linen holder ¼-inch will suffice.</p> + +<p>You are now ready to measure and cut the +cloth. Be sure to measure your cloth at a right +angle and leave ½-inch extra at the top and +bottom and right side. In cutting the length +and width of your linen, you will be guided +by the following figures: Length, ½ plus 5¼ +plus ½ or 6¼ inches from top to bottom; +width, 2½ plus 3⅝ plus ¼ plus 3⅝ plus ½ or +10½ inches from left to right (the 2½ inches +at the left is for the holder or pocket). Having +cut your cloth 10½ inches by 6¼ inches, lay it +down flat upon the table, and draw parallel +lines ½ inch from the top and ½ inch from +the bottom. Then draw perpendicular lines +from the right as follows: ½-inch, 3⅝ inches, +¼-inch, and 3⅝ inches again. By drawing +these parallel and perpendicular lines correctly, +you will know just where to place the two +(5¼ × 3⅝) cardboards. The diagram on your +cloth will look something like Figure 1.</p> + +<p>You are now ready to paste the card-boards +in the spaces outlined in Figure 1. Place the +cardboard on a piece of waste or newspaper; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span>then dip your brush in a little water before +applying the paste so as to get an even moisture; +and give the cardboard a smooth coating +of paste. In doing this paste work properly, +it is good to have a supply of waste or newspaper +at hand; also, a rough towel and a wastebasket. +Having applied a smooth coating of +paste to the cardboard, place it within the lines +of the right frame (see Figure 1) and rub the +surface of the cardboard with a clean piece of +cloth; until you feel sure that it has been properly +pasted. Do the same with the remaining +cardboard and place it in the adjoining frame +(see Figure 1).</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p07" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p07.jpg" alt="cardboard layout"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 1</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> + +<p>Fold and crease the 2½ inches of cloth at +your left, so that it will lay flat upon the left +cardboard. At the top and bottom ends of this +crease, and within the ½-inch of the overlapping +margins of each end, cut out a piece of +cloth in the shape of a V (see Figure 2). Also, +at the top and bottom end of the 2½ inches +of cloth, and within the ½-inch margins of +both these ends, cut out two more pieces of +cloth in the shape of V (see Figure 2).</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p08" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p08.jpg" alt="cloth layout"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 2</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>As the cloth pocket-folder at your left is +lying flat upon the left cardboard, fold both +ends of the ½-inch margins of the pocket-folder +inside, so that the margins will rest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span>between the left cardboard and the pocket +cloth. Take a piece of white paper 5⅛ × 2¼ +and insert ¾-inch of the left side in the pocket-folder, +so that ¾-inch at the top and bottom +of the left sheet will rest right into the folded +crease on the inside of the pocket-folder. Paste +the back of the right side of the sheet on the +left cardboard and the ¼-inch back of the +book; there will still be left ¼-inch which can +be pasted on the adjoining right cardboard. +Now, paste the ½-inch margins at the top and +bottom of the pocket holder, and fold them +over so that they will rest outside the pocket +(see Figure 3). Paste the remaining ½-inch +margins at the top, bottom and right (one at a +time) and turn them in; first, the top margin, +then the margin at the bottom, the margin at +the right being last. It will be necessary to cut +out a small bit of cloth at the top and bottom +of the right margin corners. As two margins +meet each other at the corner of a book⁠—each +margin being ¼-inch wide⁠—you find a corner +margin ½-inch square that is not needed, and +can be cut out; but, by a little practice, the +corner can be so manipulated, as to make two +right-angled triangles and by cutting the triangle +facing toward you, make a more finished +corner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> + +<p>The margins being properly pasted inside the +covers, take a sheet of paper (white) 5 × 3½ +and paste over the right cardboard and part +of the pasted margins, leaving ⅛-inch from +the top, bottom and right side. This finishes +your linen book holder and you can now insert +the left cover of your Blue Book into the +pocket of the linen holder.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp95" id="p11" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p11.jpg" alt="cover in pocket"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 3</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p> + <h3 id="2_TOOLS_AND_MATERIALS"> + 2. TOOLS AND MATERIALS + FOR BOOKBINDING + </h3> +</div> + +<ul> + <li>Sewing Bench</li> + <li>Flat Press</li> + <li>Steel-faced Backing Boards</li> + <li>Hammer</li> + <li>Scissors</li> + <li>Folder (bone)</li> + <li>Hack Saw</li> + <li>Glue Pot</li> + <li>Brushes, Paste</li> + <li>Ruler</li> + <li>Cutter</li> + <li>Cloth</li> +</ul> + +<p>The Sewing Bench is a wooden frame, consisting +of four attached pieces of wood⁠—1 flat +piece 18 inches long by 8 inches wide; two +upright pieces of wood, each piece being 1 foot +long and an inch square. These two pieces of +wood are attached at the left and right front ends +of the flat piece perpendicularly, so that +the two pieces are parallel to each other. Another +piece of wood 18 inches long and 1 inch +square connects the two uprights, and you have +a sewing bench (see Figure 4).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p13" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p13.jpg" alt="sewing bench"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 4—Sewing Bench with 3 cords attached.</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A small wooden press, which is used to give +the book or its number of parts a good squeeze +before the binding, can be made of two flat +pieces of strong wood and made to come as +close together with the aid of a metal vise. +(The press can also be purchased for about +$3.75.)</p> + +<p>The steel-faced backing boards are used after +the book is finished; the book being placed +between the two boards with the protruding +pieces of brass resting in the creases of the +book. This can also be done with the aid of a +metal vise. The steel-faced backing boards are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span>made up of two pieces of strong wood 18 inches +long and 12 inches wide and about 1 inch thick. +At one of the long ends of each of these boards +a piece of steel or brass is so attached as to +protrude about ⅛ of an inch. These boards can +also be purchased at a nominal cost at any +business house dealing in Bookbinders’ Supplies.</p> + +<p>The other tools, such as paste, hammer, +brush, scissors, etc., can be purchased at any +hardware or five and ten-cent store.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span></p> + <h3 id="3_STITCHING"> + 3. STITCHING + </h3> +</div> + +<p>For the beginner who wishes to learn book +binding in all its parts, it is advisable to take +apart some old inexpensive book or magazine. +In doing so, he will observe how the numerous +pages are joined together by parts or “signatures” +and then stitched. In taking an old book +apart, one can’t help noticing how the covers +were attached and how the back of the book +was glued.</p> + +<p>The average book, containing several hundred +pages, is divided into a certain number of parts +or sections. A section is made up of 8 pages +or 16 sides. A book of 320 sides consists of +160 pages or 20 sections.</p> + +<p>In preparing to stitch the sections of a book +together, be sure to have each section in its +proper place, before placing it on the sewing +bench. Mark the first page of each section 1, +2, 3, etc. In order to insure a uniform width +of all the sections, place them into the wooden +press, so that the back of each section will be +properly squeezed. Now, have all the backs +protrude ¼-inch out of the press; and with a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span>plain hack saw, make the holes as follows: +½-inch across from each end of the section, +across the center, and two times across, between +the center and each end-hole. (The last +two being half way between the center and +end-holes.) These holes are made for the cotton +or stitching cord to pass through. Be careful +in cutting, so as not to make the holes too +deep. Cut as deep as the teeth of the saw.</p> + +<p>Three cords are attached to the bar of the +sewing bench. These cords are fastened to the +base. As a section of the book is placed upon +the sewing bench, the center hole and the ones +to the left and the right of the center, are +placed in front of these cords, so that the three +cords will cover the three holes. Thread your +needle, and begin stitching from the outside of +the end-hole at your right; and, as the cotton +is drawn inside and outside of the section, it +will entwine the three cords. As you finish +stitching one section, run your needle around +the stitch underneath it and make a knot. +These knots hold all the sections together.</p> + +<p>After all the sections are properly stitched, +cut the three cords, leaving an inch or so from +each end. These extra pieces of cord are +threaded and later used as part of the attachment +of the book to the covers (see Figure 5).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span></p> +<p>When all the sections are stitched and properly +knotted, the book is ready to be bound. +End-sheets are then cut to measure the length +and width of the book to be bound.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p18" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p18.jpg" alt="inside stitches"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 5—Showing the inside stitch of a section</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span></p> + <h3 id="4_BINDING"> + 4. BINDING + </h3> +</div> + +<p>Suppose the book to be bound is 8 inches +long, 5 inches wide and 1 inch thick. The end-sheet +can be cut 8 × 10 and folded in half. +Usually, two such sheets are cut, and pasted +over each other. The top sheet being re-enforced +by a strip of white linen 8 × 1½, leaving +¾ of an inch on each side of the crease. The +end-sheets are then pasted with a half inch +margin of paste, and placed over the first and +last sheet of the book.</p> + +<p>The back of the book is now ready to be +glued; it is placed between two cardboards, +and then placed between two contracting +boards, leaving the back of the book protruding +enough to be glued freely. The glue, being +properly prepared, is applied to the back of the +book with a stiff brush. The headbands or +trimmings are then cut 1⅛ inches and placed +on each end of the back. These headbands +are more of an ornament, and most books today +are bound without them.</p> + +<p>The book being 8 inches long and one inch +thick, cut a piece of cheese cloth 8 inches long +and 4 inches wide, and place over the glued +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span>back so that 1½ inches of the cloth will lap +over each side of the book. A strip of heavy +paper 8 × 1 inches is cut and placed over the +glued cheese cloth back. Leave the book in +this position for a while to dry.</p> + +<p>The next step is the cutting of cloth and +cardboards for the cover. The book being 8 +inches long and 5 inches wide, the cardboards +should be cut 8¼ inches long and 4⅝ inches +wide. (In making a flat back the width of the +cardboards would be 5⅛.) By cutting the cardboards +8¼ inches long, you allow ⅛ inch to +protrude at the top and the bottom; and by +cutting the cardboards 4⅝ inches wide, you +allow a space of ¼ inch adjacent to each side +of the back of the book for the crease, and ⅛ +of an inch margin wider than the book.</p> + +<p>To give the book⁠—8 inches long, 5 inches +wide and 1 inch thick⁠—a whole cloth binding +it is necessary to measure the cloth as follows: +length, ½ plus 8 and ¼ plus ½ (the half inches +for margins at each end, and the 8¼ inches for +the cardboards) making the length of your +cloth 9¼ inches. In measuring the width of +the book, allow space for the back, covers, +creases and margins. The width, therefore, +would be measured as follows: ½ plus 4⅝ plus +¼ plus 1 plus ¼ plus 4⅝ plus ½, making the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span>total width 12¼ inches (see Figure 6). We now +have the following measurements for the whole +cloth covering of the book: Full length of +cloth 9¼ inches. Full width of cloth 12¼ +inches.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p22" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p22.jpg" alt="whole cloth binding"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 6</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<ul> + <li>aa—Card-boards 8¼ × 4⅝</li> + <li>bb—Space for creases ¼ inch wide</li> + <li>c—Space for 1-inch back</li> + <li>dd—½-inch margins at the top and bottom</li> + <li>ee—½-inch margins at the left and right</li> +</ul> +<br> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span></p> +<p>A piece of heavy paper 8¼ × 1 inch should be +pasted over the 1-inch back to reinforce it. +Paste the top margin and turn in; then the +bottom margin. Now you have four corners to +adjust before turning in the side margins. At +each corner, you have a piece of cloth a half +inch square, facing you, a part of which is +unnecessary. With the aid of your thumb, +manipulate the half inch square of cloth in +such a way as to make two right-angle triangles; +and cut the triangle facing you. Repeat +the same process with the three remaining +corners; and then turn in your left and right +half inch margins. This completes your cover.</p> + +<p>If you wish to put any letters, designs or +title on your cover, now would be the proper +time⁠—for beginners. The subject of lettering +will be taken up in another chapter.</p> + +<p>To cover the same book with two different +materials, such as cloth and paper or leather +and cloth, it is customary to have the back +and the corners of the book bound in the same +material. Given the dimensions of any book, +the rule is the same, in so far as allowing so +much for the margin, ¼ inch for the crease on +each side adjoining the back of the book.</p> + +<p>In binding a book 9¼ inches long, 6¼ inches +wide and 1½ inches thick with a buckram back +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span>and corners and linen or paper sides, measure +and cut the buckram as follows: 1½ back, ¼ +plus ¼ for the creases on each side, and 1½ +plus 1½ inches buckram extra on each side of +the cover. The total width being 5 inches. +The length would be 9¼ and ½ plus ½ or 10¼ +inches. The four buckram corners should be +cut in four right angle triangles.</p> + +<p>If each corner of the cover is to have a 2½-inch +right angle triangle in buckram, cut two +pieces of buckram 3½ inches square; which +allows for a ½-inch margin⁠—all around⁠—to turn +in. Cut both the squares along the opposite +points or the hypotenuse and you have your +four right-angle triangles (see Figure 7).</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p24" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p24.jpg" alt="corner cover layout"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 7—Pattern for the four corners. Dotted + lines represent the margins.</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p> +<p>The paper or cloth used to cover the rest of +the book should be measured and cut as follows: +length 9¼ inches and ½ plus ½ or 10¼ +inches. The width will be 5¼ inches. About +2¾ inches will have to be cut away from the +side covers to make place for the buckram +corners. To do this work properly, bind your +book first with the buckram back and corners; +and then apply the side coverings (see Figure +8).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p26" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p26.jpg" alt="Outside cover binding"> + <figcaption> + <p class="unindent"> + Figure 8—Outside cover of a book bound in two + materials. Buckram for back and corners; + cloth or paper for the sides. + </p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span></p> +<p class="p2">Having attached the cardboards to the buckram +back and corners, take the cloth or paper +to be used for the side covering, and place one +end (lengthwise) parallel with the buckram; +allowing the cloth to lay on a ¼-inch margin +of the buckram. Take a “bone” or letter opener +and run the end along the cloth, so that the +slant of the buckram corners will leave its +impression upon the cloth or paper that you +are using. Do the same with the other side. +You now have four slant impressions on your +cloth; and by cutting your piece of cloth ¼ +inch away from the slants, but parallel to it, +you will have an exact covering.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span></p> + <h3 id="5_REBINDING_OLD_BOOKS"> + 5. REBINDING OLD BOOKS + </h3> +</div> + +<p>Some books only need new covers⁠—the binding +being strong. In removing the old covers, +care should be taken not to cut any of the knots +or stitches; otherwise the book will come apart. +Also, in removing the back which usually contains +the title, you may wish to repaste the +title to the new covering. If the pages of the +book are loose and merit restitching, remove +the dry glue from the back of the book. The +use of a pen knife, sand paper and a wet sponge +will be necessary to remove the glue properly. +The glue being properly removed from the +back of the book, the sections will come apart +readily. Remove the old stitchings from each +section; and also examine the back of each +part. If it is torn or worn out, re-enforce it +with a thin slip of strong tissue paper one inch +wide; so that ½ inch will rest on each side of +the crease. The length of the tissue paper will +depend, of course, upon the length of the page +being repaired. Having taken the sections +apart, you now proceed in the same manner as +described in the chapter on Stitching.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span></p> + <h3 id="6_LOOSE_LEAF_SCRAP_BOOKS"> + 6. LOOSE LEAF SCRAP BOOKS + </h3> +</div> + +<p>The covers for a loose leaf scrap book can +be made without a back. Measure and cut the +cardboard ⅛ of an inch larger on all sides +than the pages. Also, leave a ½-inch cloth +margin on all sides. After the covers are finished, +cut holes in their proper places⁠—usually +two at the back of each cover. Holes are cut +in the pages to correspond with the holes in +the cover. Two rings are run through the covers +and pages; and your scrap or note-book is +finished (see Figure 9). A hole puncher and +rings can be had at a hardware store or at +the “five and ten.”</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p29" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p29.jpg" alt="Covers with holes for rings"> + <figcaption> + <p>Figure 9</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span></p> + <h3 id="7_LETTERING"> + 7. LETTERING + </h3> +</div> + +<p>Bookbinders’ ink can be purchased in small +tin tubes. They come in all colors; but the +dark colors are best for the beginner. The light +colors⁠—especially white⁠—do not leave a clear +impression upon the cloth. To do this work +properly, it is necessary to have a tool-press, a +small supply of printer’s type, and a small +roller. The tool-press is a metal device to hold +the type fast; and is made of a brass oblong +frame with two screws. The frame is movable, +and the screws are used to widen or narrow it +according to the title of the book.</p> + +<p>Suppose the title to be printed upon the back +of the book is PILGRIM’S PROGRESS; and +the back of the book is one inch wide. You +will have to print PILGRIM’S PROGRESS on +two lines⁠—each line being less than an inch. +The type used would be about the same size +as the capital letters of a typewriting machine.</p> + +<p>Place the letters “PILGRIM’S” in the tool-press. +Hold the tool-press with its back facing +you, and set the type from left to right. Open +your tube of printers’ ink and squeeze a small +bit on a piece of glass. Place the small roller +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span>over the ink; and keep on rolling back and +forth until you have a smooth thin layer of +ink on your roller. Apply the roller to the +title once or twice, and, holding the handle of +the tool-press tightly, press the letters upon the +back of the book. Increase the pressure for a +few seconds, and remove the tool-press. In +order to ensure the title being placed properly, +draw a light horizontal line on the back of the +book, and place the type right under it.</p> + +<p>Having printed the word “PILGRIM’S” on the +back of your book, remove the type from your +tool-press, and set up PROGRESS in the same +way⁠—repeating the same process. The word +PROGRESS should be printed about ¾ of an +inch below PILGRIM’S.</p> + +<p>Before impressing the title upon the book, +the beginner is advised to try it first on a +piece of waste cloth or heavy paper. Only +after you have made a clear and good impression +upon the scrap of cloth, should you do the +book.</p> + +<p>After this is done, leave the printed title to +dry and then attach the cover to the book in +the manner described under “Binding.” Also, +remove the surplus ink from the type, roller +and glass. Use a little kerosene oil on a tooth +brush for the cleaning of the type; and some +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span>cotton waste for the roller and glass. Apply a +little kerosene to the cotton waste, and apply it +to the roller, until all the ink is removed. Do +the same for the glass.</p> + +<p>To use dark colors such as black, blue or +brown, it is necessary to employ a light cloth; +or print the title on a white cloth and paste +the white over the dark cloth. White ink on +a dark cloth tends to blur; and Bookbinders +use instead a chemical called praeger leaf. It +looks like a sheet of paper with a coating of +white chalk on one side. Apply several drops +from the white of an egg (size) on the cloth. +Place a small strip of praeger leaf over it. +Heat the type to be used for several minutes +(place in oven) and then apply it on the +praeger leaf. The heat of the type melts the +impression upon the cloth, and the “size” +(white of an egg) makes it stick. Gold lettering +with the use of gold leaf is done the same +way.</p> + +<p>Here too it is advisable to experiment on +pieces of scrap cloth several times, and remember, +“If at first you don’t succeed, try, try +again.”</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter transnote"> + <h4 id="Transcribers_Note"> + Transcriber’s Note: + </h4> + +<p>One misspelled word was corrected, one extraneous hyphen + was removed, and one unprinted letter was added. +</p> +</div> + + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77757 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/77757-h/images/cover.jpg b/77757-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e206741 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p07.jpg b/77757-h/images/p07.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8525ded --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p07.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p08.jpg b/77757-h/images/p08.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdd12ad --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p08.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p11.jpg b/77757-h/images/p11.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3afff49 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p11.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p13.jpg b/77757-h/images/p13.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7f6faff --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p13.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p18.jpg b/77757-h/images/p18.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2d8717 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p18.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p22.jpg b/77757-h/images/p22.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..afa39c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p22.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p24.jpg b/77757-h/images/p24.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e022838 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p24.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p26.jpg b/77757-h/images/p26.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd71d7d --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p26.jpg diff --git a/77757-h/images/p29.jpg b/77757-h/images/p29.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..150ea87 --- /dev/null +++ b/77757-h/images/p29.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c72794 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c4a401 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #77757 +(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/77757) diff --git a/bookbinding_v1.txt b/bookbinding_v1.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e944b5d --- /dev/null +++ b/bookbinding_v1.txt @@ -0,0 +1,487 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77757 *** + + + + + =LITTLE BLUE BOOK NO.= 1192 + =Edited by E. Haldeman-Julius= + + Bookbinding + Self Taught + + =Ben Davidson= + + HALDEMAN-JULIUS PUBLICATIONS + GIRARD, KANSAS + + + + + Copyright, 1927, + Haldeman-Julius Company + + + PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA + + + + + CONTENTS + + + Page + + 1. Little Blue Book Covers 5 + + 2. Tools and Materials 12 + + 3. Stitching 15 + + 4. Binding 19 + + 5. Rebinding Old Books 28 + + 6. Loose Leaf Scrap Books 29 + + 7. Lettering 30 + + + + + BOOKBINDING SELF TAUGHT + + + + + 1. LITTLE BLUE BOOK COVERS + + +The satisfaction derived from rebinding torn covered books from my +library has actuated me in preparing this Little Blue Book. I am the +possessor of several hundred copies of the Little Blue Books, for +which I have made a number of linen holders. To begin, therefore, +with just such a simple proposition as the making of a linen cover or +holder for one of the Blue Books would be a good start. + +All you need is a piece of linen cloth, some thin card-board, white +paste, scissors and a small brush which can be purchased at the five +and ten-cent store. Also a ruler. + +The Blue Book being 5 inches high and 3½ inches wide, cut two pieces +of cardboard to measure 5¼ inches high and 3⅝ inches wide, thus +making the card-board protrude ⅛ of an inch at the top and bottom and +⅛ of an inch on the side. + +Now, measure the back of the Blue Book. As there is no uniform size, +and since the backs of the Blue Books vary from ⅛ to ⅜ of an inch, +allow ¼-inch for the back. If you were making a permanent cover for +the Blue Book, you would have to measure its back exactly, but for a +removable linen holder ¼-inch will suffice. + +You are now ready to measure and cut the cloth. Be sure to measure +your cloth at a right angle and leave ½-inch extra at the top and +bottom and right side. In cutting the length and width of your linen, +you will be guided by the following figures: Length, ½ plus 5¼ plus +½ or 6¼ inches from top to bottom; width, 2½ plus 3⅝ plus ¼ plus 3⅝ +plus ½ or 10½ inches from left to right (the 2½ inches at the left +is for the holder or pocket). Having cut your cloth 10½ inches by 6¼ +inches, lay it down flat upon the table, and draw parallel lines ½ +inch from the top and ½ inch from the bottom. Then draw perpendicular +lines from the right as follows: ½-inch, 3⅝ inches, ¼-inch, and 3⅝ +inches again. By drawing these parallel and perpendicular lines +correctly, you will know just where to place the two (5¼ × 3⅝) +cardboards. The diagram on your cloth will look something like +Figure 1. + +You are now ready to paste the card-boards in the spaces outlined in +Figure 1. Place the cardboard on a piece of waste or newspaper; then +dip your brush in a little water before applying the paste so as to +get an even moisture; and give the cardboard a smooth coating of +paste. In doing this paste work properly, it is good to have a supply +of waste or newspaper at hand; also, a rough towel and a wastebasket. +Having applied a smooth coating of paste to the cardboard, place +it within the lines of the right frame (see Figure 1) and rub the +surface of the cardboard with a clean piece of cloth; until you feel +sure that it has been properly pasted. Do the same with the remaining +cardboard and place it in the adjoining frame (see Figure 1). + + [Illustration: Figure 1] + +Fold and crease the 2½ inches of cloth at your left, so that it will +lay flat upon the left cardboard. At the top and bottom ends of this +crease, and within the ½-inch of the overlapping margins of each end, +cut out a piece of cloth in the shape of a V (see Figure 2). Also, +at the top and bottom end of the 2½ inches of cloth, and within the +½-inch margins of both these ends, cut out two more pieces of cloth +in the shape of V (see Figure 2). + + [Illustration: Figure 2] + +As the cloth pocket-folder at your left is lying flat upon the left +cardboard, fold both ends of the ½-inch margins of the pocket-folder +inside, so that the margins will rest between the left cardboard +and the pocket cloth. Take a piece of white paper 5⅛ × 2¼ and insert +¾-inch of the left side in the pocket-folder, so that ¾-inch at the +top and bottom of the left sheet will rest right into the folded +crease on the inside of the pocket-folder. Paste the back of the +right side of the sheet on the left cardboard and the ¼-inch back of +the book; there will still be left ¼-inch which can be pasted on the +adjoining right cardboard. Now, paste the ½-inch margins at the top +and bottom of the pocket holder, and fold them over so that they will +rest outside the pocket (see Figure 3). Paste the remaining ½-inch +margins at the top, bottom and right (one at a time) and turn them +in; first, the top margin, then the margin at the bottom, the margin +at the right being last. It will be necessary to cut out a small bit +of cloth at the top and bottom of the right margin corners. As two +margins meet each other at the corner of a book--each margin being +¼-inch wide--you find a corner margin ½-inch square that is not +needed, and can be cut out; but, by a little practice, the corner +can be so manipulated, as to make two right-angled triangles and by +cutting the triangle facing toward you, make a more finished corner. + +The margins being properly pasted inside the covers, take a sheet of +paper (white) 5 × 3½ and paste over the right cardboard and part of +the pasted margins, leaving ⅛-inch from the top, bottom and right +side. This finishes your linen book holder and you can now insert the +left cover of your Blue Book into the pocket of the linen holder. + + [Illustration: Figure 3] + + + + + 2. TOOLS AND MATERIALS + FOR BOOKBINDING + + + Sewing Bench + Flat Press + Steel-faced Backing Boards + Hammer + Scissors + Folder (bone) + Hack Saw + Glue Pot + Brushes, Paste + Ruler + Cutter + Cloth + +The Sewing Bench is a wooden frame, consisting of four attached +pieces of wood--1 flat piece 18 inches long by 8 inches wide; two +upright pieces of wood, each piece being 1 foot long and an inch +square. These two pieces of wood are attached at the left and right +front ends of the flat piece perpendicularly, so that the two pieces +are parallel to each other. Another piece of wood 18 inches long and +1 inch square connects the two uprights, and you have a sewing bench +(see Figure 4). + + [Illustration: Figure 4--Sewing Bench with 3 cords attached.] + +A small wooden press, which is used to give the book or its number +of parts a good squeeze before the binding, can be made of two flat +pieces of strong wood and made to come as close together with the aid +of a metal vise. (The press can also be purchased for about $3.75.) + +The steel-faced backing boards are used after the book is finished; +the book being placed between the two boards with the protruding +pieces of brass resting in the creases of the book. This can also be +done with the aid of a metal vise. The steel-faced backing boards are +made up of two pieces of strong wood 18 inches long and 12 inches +wide and about 1 inch thick. At one of the long ends of each of these +boards a piece of steel or brass is so attached as to protrude about ⅛ +of an inch. These boards can also be purchased at a nominal cost at +any business house dealing in Bookbinders’ Supplies. + +The other tools, such as paste, hammer, brush, scissors, etc., can be +purchased at any hardware or five and ten-cent store. + + + + + 3. STITCHING + +For the beginner who wishes to learn book binding in all its parts, +it is advisable to take apart some old inexpensive book or magazine. +In doing so, he will observe how the numerous pages are joined +together by parts or “signatures” and then stitched. In taking an old +book apart, one can’t help noticing how the covers were attached and +how the back of the book was glued. + +The average book, containing several hundred pages, is divided into a +certain number of parts or sections. A section is made up of 8 pages +or 16 sides. A book of 320 sides consists of 160 pages or 20 sections. + +In preparing to stitch the sections of a book together, be sure to +have each section in its proper place, before placing it on the +sewing bench. Mark the first page of each section 1, 2, 3, etc. In +order to insure a uniform width of all the sections, place them into +the wooden press, so that the back of each section will be properly +squeezed. Now, have all the backs protrude ¼-inch out of the press; +and with a plain hack saw, make the holes as follows: ½-inch across +from each end of the section, across the center, and two times +across, between the center and each end-hole. (The last two being +half way between the center and end-holes.) These holes are made for +the cotton or stitching cord to pass through. Be careful in cutting, +so as not to make the holes too deep. Cut as deep as the teeth of the +saw. + +Three cords are attached to the bar of the sewing bench. These cords +are fastened to the base. As a section of the book is placed upon +the sewing bench, the center hole and the ones to the left and the +right of the center, are placed in front of these cords, so that the +three cords will cover the three holes. Thread your needle, and begin +stitching from the outside of the end-hole at your right; and, as the +cotton is drawn inside and outside of the section, it will entwine +the three cords. As you finish stitching one section, run your needle +around the stitch underneath it and make a knot. These knots hold all +the sections together. + +After all the sections are properly stitched, cut the three cords, +leaving an inch or so from each end. These extra pieces of cord are +threaded and later used as part of the attachment of the book to the +covers (see Figure 5). + +When all the sections are stitched and properly knotted, the book is +ready to be bound. End-sheets are then cut to measure the length and +width of the book to be bound. + + [Illustration: Figure 5--Showing the inside stitch of a section] + + + + + 4. BINDING + + +Suppose the book to be bound is 8 inches long, 5 inches wide and +1 inch thick. The end-sheet can be cut 8 × 10 and folded in half. +Usually, two such sheets are cut, and pasted over each other. The top +sheet being re-enforced by a strip of white linen 8 × 1½, leaving ¾ +of an inch on each side of the crease. The end-sheets are then pasted +with a half inch margin of paste, and placed over the first and last +sheet of the book. + +The back of the book is now ready to be glued; it is placed between +two cardboards, and then placed between two contracting boards, +leaving the back of the book protruding enough to be glued freely. +The glue, being properly prepared, is applied to the back of the book +with a stiff brush. The headbands or trimmings are then cut 1⅛ inches +and placed on each end of the back. These headbands are more of an +ornament, and most books today are bound without them. + +The book being 8 inches long and one inch thick, cut a piece of +cheese cloth 8 inches long and 4 inches wide, and place over the +glued back so that 1½ inches of the cloth will lap over each side of +the book. A strip of heavy paper 8 × 1 inches is cut and placed over +the glued cheese cloth back. Leave the book in this position for a +while to dry. + +The next step is the cutting of cloth and cardboards for the cover. +The book being 8 inches long and 5 inches wide, the cardboards should +be cut 8¼ inches long and 4⅝ inches wide. (In making a flat back the +width of the cardboards would be 5⅛.) By cutting the cardboards 8¼ +inches long, you allow ⅛ inch to protrude at the top and the bottom; +and by cutting the cardboards 4⅝ inches wide, you allow a space of ¼ +inch adjacent to each side of the back of the book for the crease, +and ⅛ of an inch margin wider than the book. + +To give the book--8 inches long, 5 inches wide and 1 inch thick--a +whole cloth binding it is necessary to measure the cloth as follows: +length, ½ plus 8 and ¼ plus ½ (the half inches for margins at each +end, and the 8¼ inches for the cardboards) making the length of your +cloth 9¼ inches. In measuring the width of the book, allow space for +the back, covers, creases and margins. The width, therefore, would be +measured as follows: ½ plus 4⅝ plus ¼ plus 1 plus ¼ plus 4⅝ plus ½, +making the total width 12¼ inches (see Figure 6). We now have the +following measurements for the whole cloth covering of the book: Full +length of cloth 9¼ inches. Full width of cloth 12¼ inches. + + [Illustration: Figure 6 + aa--Card-boards 8¼ × 4⅝ + bb--Space for creases ¼ inch wide + c--Space for 1-inch back + dd--½-inch margins at the top and bottom + ee--½-inch margins at the left and right] + +A piece of heavy paper 8¼ × 1 inch should be pasted over the 1-inch +back to reinforce it. Paste the top margin and turn in; then the +bottom margin. Now you have four corners to adjust before turning in +the side margins. At each corner, you have a piece of cloth a half +inch square, facing you, a part of which is unnecessary. With the aid +of your thumb, manipulate the half inch square of cloth in such a way +as to make two right-angle triangles; and cut the triangle facing +you. Repeat the same process with the three remaining corners; and +then turn in your left and right half inch margins. This completes +your cover. + +If you wish to put any letters, designs or title on your cover, now +would be the proper time--for beginners. The subject of lettering +will be taken up in another chapter. + +To cover the same book with two different materials, such as cloth +and paper or leather and cloth, it is customary to have the back +and the corners of the book bound in the same material. Given the +dimensions of any book, the rule is the same, in so far as allowing +so much for the margin, ¼ inch for the crease on each side adjoining +the back of the book. + +In binding a book 9¼ inches long, 6¼ inches wide and 1½ inches thick +with a buckram back and corners and linen or paper sides, measure +and cut the buckram as follows: 1½ back, ¼ plus ¼ for the creases on +each side, and 1½ plus 1½ inches buckram extra on each side of the +cover. The total width being 5 inches. The length would be 9¼ and ½ +plus ½ or 10¼ inches. The four buckram corners should be cut in four +right angle triangles. + +If each corner of the cover is to have a 2½-inch right angle triangle +in buckram, cut two pieces of buckram 3½ inches square; which allows +for a ½-inch margin--all around--to turn in. Cut both the squares +along the opposite points or the hypotenuse and you have your four +right-angle triangles (see Figure 7). + + [Illustration: Figure 7--Pattern for the four corners. Dotted lines + represent the margins.] + +The paper or cloth used to cover the rest of the book should be +measured and cut as follows: length 9¼ inches and ½ plus ½ or 10¼ +inches. The width will be 5¼ inches. About 2¾ inches will have to be +cut away from the side covers to make place for the buckram corners. +To do this work properly, bind your book first with the buckram back +and corners; and then apply the side coverings (see Figure 8). + + [Illustration: + Figure 8--Outside cover of a book bound in two + materials. Buckram for back and corners; cloth or + paper for the sides.] + +Having attached the cardboards to the buckram back and corners, take +the cloth or paper to be used for the side covering, and place one +end (lengthwise) parallel with the buckram; allowing the cloth to lay +on a ¼-inch margin of the buckram. Take a “bone” or letter opener and +run the end along the cloth, so that the slant of the buckram corners +will leave its impression upon the cloth or paper that you are using. +Do the same with the other side. You now have four slant impressions +on your cloth; and by cutting your piece of cloth ¼ inch away from +the slants, but parallel to it, you will have an exact covering. + + + + + 5. REBINDING OLD BOOKS + + +Some books only need new covers--the binding being strong. In +removing the old covers, care should be taken not to cut any of the +knots or stitches; otherwise the book will come apart. Also, in +removing the back which usually contains the title, you may wish to +repaste the title to the new covering. If the pages of the book are +loose and merit restitching, remove the dry glue from the back of +the book. The use of a pen knife, sand paper and a wet sponge will +be necessary to remove the glue properly. The glue being properly +removed from the back of the book, the sections will come apart +readily. Remove the old stitchings from each section; and also +examine the back of each part. If it is torn or worn out, re-enforce +it with a thin slip of strong tissue paper one inch wide; so that ½ +inch will rest on each side of the crease. The length of the tissue +paper will depend, of course, upon the length of the page being +repaired. Having taken the sections apart, you now proceed in the +same manner as described in the chapter on Stitching. + + + + + 6. LOOSE LEAF SCRAP BOOKS + + +The covers for a loose leaf scrap book can be made without a back. +Measure and cut the cardboard ⅛ of an inch larger on all sides than +the pages. Also, leave a ½-inch cloth margin on all sides. After the +covers are finished, cut holes in their proper places--usually two +at the back of each cover. Holes are cut in the pages to correspond +with the holes in the cover. Two rings are run through the covers and +pages; and your scrap or note-book is finished (see Figure 9). A hole +puncher and rings can be had at a hardware store or at the “five and +ten.” + + [Illustration: Figure 9] + + + + + 7. LETTERING + + +Bookbinders’ ink can be purchased in small tin tubes. They come +in all colors; but the dark colors are best for the beginner. The +light colors--especially white--do not leave a clear impression +upon the cloth. To do this work properly, it is necessary to have a +tool-press, a small supply of printer’s type, and a small roller. The +tool-press is a metal device to hold the type fast; and is made of +a brass oblong frame with two screws. The frame is movable, and the +screws are used to widen or narrow it according to the title of the +book. + +Suppose the title to be printed upon the back of the book is +PILGRIM’S PROGRESS; and the back of the book is one inch wide. You +will have to print PILGRIM’S PROGRESS on two lines--each line being +less than an inch. The type used would be about the same size as the +capital letters of a typewriting machine. + +Place the letters “PILGRIM’S” in the tool-press. Hold the tool-press +with its back facing you, and set the type from left to right. Open +your tube of printers’ ink and squeeze a small bit on a piece of +glass. Place the small roller over the ink; and keep on rolling +back and forth until you have a smooth thin layer of ink on your +roller. Apply the roller to the title once or twice, and, holding the +handle of the tool-press tightly, press the letters upon the back of +the book. Increase the pressure for a few seconds, and remove the +tool-press. In order to ensure the title being placed properly, draw +a light horizontal line on the back of the book, and place the type +right under it. + +Having printed the word “PILGRIM’S” on the back of your book, remove +the type from your tool-press, and set up PROGRESS in the same +way--repeating the same process. The word PROGRESS should be printed +about ¾ of an inch below PILGRIM’S. + +Before impressing the title upon the book, the beginner is advised to +try it first on a piece of waste cloth or heavy paper. Only after you +have made a clear and good impression upon the scrap of cloth, should +you do the book. + +After this is done, leave the printed title to dry and then attach +the cover to the book in the manner described under “Binding.” Also, +remove the surplus ink from the type, roller and glass. Use a little +kerosene oil on a tooth brush for the cleaning of the type; and some +cotton waste for the roller and glass. Apply a little kerosene to +the cotton waste, and apply it to the roller, until all the ink is +removed. Do the same for the glass. + +To use dark colors such as black, blue or brown, it is necessary to +employ a light cloth; or print the title on a white cloth and paste +the white over the dark cloth. White ink on a dark cloth tends to +blur; and Bookbinders use instead a chemical called praeger leaf. +It looks like a sheet of paper with a coating of white chalk on one +side. Apply several drops from the white of an egg (size) on the +cloth. Place a small strip of praeger leaf over it. Heat the type +to be used for several minutes (place in oven) and then apply it on +the praeger leaf. The heat of the type melts the impression upon +the cloth, and the “size” (white of an egg) makes it stick. Gold +lettering with the use of gold leaf is done the same way. + +Here too it is advisable to experiment on pieces of scrap cloth +several times, and remember, “If at first you don’t succeed, try, try +again.” + + + + +Transcriber’s Note: + +Words in bold are surrounded by equal signs, =like this=. One +misspelled word was corrected, one extraneous hyphen was removed, and +one unprinted letter was added. + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77757 *** |
