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| author | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2025-11-27 14:25:52 -0800 |
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| committer | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2025-11-27 14:25:52 -0800 |
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+ border:thin solid silver; margin:2em 10% 0 10%; font-family: Georgia, serif; + clear: both; } + .covernote { visibility: hidden; display: none; } + div.tnotes p { text-align: justify; } + .x-ebookmaker .covernote { visibility: visible; display: block; } + .figcenter {font-size: .9em; page-break-inside: avoid; max-width: 100%; + max-height: 100%; } + h1 {line-height: 150%; } + .footnote {font-size: .9em; } + div.footnote p {text-indent: 2em; margin-bottom: .5em; } + .chapter { clear: both; page-break-before: always; } + body {font-family: Garamond, Georgia, serif; text-align: justify; } + table {font-size: .9em; padding: 1.5em .5em 1em; page-break-inside: avoid; + clear: both; } + div.titlepage {text-align: center; page-break-before: always; + page-break-after: always; } + div.titlepage p {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; + line-height: 1.5; margin-top: 3em; } + .ph1 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: xx-large; + margin: .67em auto; page-break-before: always; } + .ph2 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; + page-break-before: always; } + .x-ebookmaker p.dropcap:first-letter { float: left; } + </style> + </head> + <body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77356 ***</div> + +<div class='tnotes covernote'> + +<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p> + +<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p> + +</div> + +<div class='chapter ph1'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>A LADY’S CRUISE</div> + <div class='c002'>IN A</div> + <div class='c002'>FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c003'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“The morning watch was come; the vessel lay</div> + <div class='line'>Her course, and gently made her liquid way;</div> + <div class='line'>The cloven billow flashed from off her prow</div> + <div class='line'>In furrows formed, by that majestic plough.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>‘Huzza for Otaheite!’ was the cry.</div> + <div class='line'>The gentle island and the genial soil,</div> + <div class='line'>The friendly hearts, the feasts without a toil,</div> + <div class='line'>The courteous manners, but from nature caught,</div> + <div class='line'>The wealth unhoarded, and the love unbought.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>The soil where every cottage showed a home,</div> + <div class='line'>The sea-spread net, the lightly launched canoe,</div> + <div class='line'>Which stemmed the studded archipelago</div> + <div class='line'>O’er whose blue bosom rose the starry isles.</div> + <div class='line'>And sweetly now, those untaught melodies</div> + <div class='line'>Broke the luxurious silence of the skies,</div> + <div class='line'>The sweet siesta of a summer day,</div> + <div class='line'>The tropic afternoon of Toobonai,</div> + <div class='line'>When every flower was bloom, and air was balm,</div> + <div class='line'>And the first breath began to stir the palm.”</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in32'>—<i>The Island</i>: <span class='sc'>Lord Byron</span>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div id='Frontispiece' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/a0022_frontispiece.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>PAPEETE. CAPITAL OF TAHITI.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='titlepage'> + +<div> + <h1 class='c004'><span class='xlarge'>A LADY’S CRUISE</span><br> <span class='small'>IN A</span><br> FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR</h1> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c005'> + <div><span class='small'>BY</span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='large'>C. F. GORDON CUMMING</span></div> + <div class='c002'>AUTHOR OF ‘AT HOME IN FIJI,’ ‘FROM THE HEBRIDES TO</div> + <div>THE HIMALAYAS,’ ETC.</div> + <div class='c005'><span class='small'>NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME</span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='small'><i>WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS</i></span></div> + <div class='c005'>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS</div> + <div>EDINBURGH AND LONDON</div> + <div>MDCCCLXXXII</div> + <div class='c005'><span class='xsmall'><i>All Rights reserved</i></span></div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_v'>v</span> + <h2 class='c006'>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>When, in the spring of 1875, Sir Arthur Hamilton Gordon +was appointed first Governor of Fiji, I had the good fortune +to be invited to form one of the party who accompanied +Lady Gordon to that far country.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Two years slipped away, brimful of interest, and each +month made me feel more ‘At Home in Fiji,’ more fascinated +with its lovely scenery, more content to linger among its +isles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then a counter-charm was brought to bear upon the spell +which held me thus entranced. The chief magician appeared +in the guise of a high ecclesiastic of the Roman Church, +clothed in purple, and wearing the mystic ring and cross of +amethyst; while his coadjutor, a French gentleman of the +noble old school, was the commander of a large French man-of-war, +which had been placed at the service of the Bishop +of Samoa, to enable him to visit all the most remote portions +of his diocese. Already this warlike mission-ship had peacefully +touched at many points of exceeding beauty and +interest, and our visitors had no sooner recognised my keen +<span class='pageno' id='Page_vi'>vi</span>appreciation of scenery, and inveterate love of sketching, +than they formally and most cordially invited me to complete +<i>le tour de la mission</i>, and so fill fresh portfolios with +reminders of the beautiful scenes which the vessel was about +to visit.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Being duly imbued with a British conviction that such an +invitation could not possibly be a <i>bonâ fide</i> one, I at first +treated it merely as a polite form; but when it was again +and again renewed, in such terms as to leave no possible +doubt of its sincerity, and when, moreover, we learnt that +the most comfortable cabin in the ship had actually been +prepared for the invited guest, and that its owner was +thoroughly in earnest in his share of the invitation, then +indeed we agreed that the chance was too unique to be lost; +and so it came to pass that on the 5th September 1877 I +started on the cruise in a French man-of-war, which proved +one of the most delightful episodes in many years of travel.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_vii'>vii</span> + <h2 class='c006'>NOTE TO THE FIRST EDITION.<br> <span class='c009'>THE KEY TO THE PANAMA CANAL.</span></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>While these pages were passing through the press, I have received +details from various sources, which prove that the policy referred +to at p. <a href='#Page_241'>241</a> is being actively carried out.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Not content with holding the Marquesas, the Paumotus, Tahiti, +and the Gambier Isles, France seems resolved to annex every desirable +island lying to the east of Samoa, thus securing possession +of every good harbour and coaling station lying between New +Zealand and the coast of South America; and also, diverting all +the trade of these isles, from Britain’s Australian colonies, to a +French centre, which shall command the great commercial highway +of the future, when the Panama Canal shall be completed. +Raiatea in the Society Isles has recently been formally annexed, +and the independence of Huahine and Bora-Bora threatened.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now a further step is contemplated. The Austral and Hervey +groups still remain free. They are self-governed, and Christianity +is firmly established among their people.</p> + +<p class='c008'>According to the latest information, a French man-of-war visited +their principal isles last August, to command the inhabitants to +divert their present trade from New Zealand to Tahiti, assuring +them that Great Britain had undertaken not to interfere with +<span class='pageno' id='Page_viii'>viii</span>French action anywhere to the east of Samoa. The islanders, who +had at first received the French vessel with all honour, no sooner +got an inkling of the true object of its visit than they became +alarmed, and returned all presents which had been made to them +by the captain; who thereupon assured them that the French +admiral was on his way thither, and would soon bring them to +their bearings, and that they would have to accept a French +protectorate.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Remembering the history of French protection in Tahiti, the +Australs and Hervey Islanders are now justly alarmed for their +own independence.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_ix'>ix</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CONTENTS.</h2> +</div> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER I.</td></tr> + <tr> + <th class='c011'></th> + <th class='c012'>PAGE</th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Letter to England announcing start from Fiji—Vague plans,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER II.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Life in a French man-of-war—Convent-life in Tonga—Early martyrs—Wesleyan mission—Roman Catholic mission—Cyclopean tombs at Mua—Gigantic trilithon—Fines and taxes—King George Tupou,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_3'>3</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER III.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Sail from Tonga to Vavau—Volcano of Tofua—Wesleyan mission—Two thousand miles from a doctor—Orange-groves—A lovely sea lake—Coral caves,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IV.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Life on board ship—The Wallis Isles—Fotuna—Sunday Isle—Cyclopean remains on Easter Isle—Stone adzes—Samoa—Pango-Pango harbour,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER V.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Boat transit to Leone—Spouting caves—Council of war—Sketch of Samoan history—Night dances,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VI.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>A shore without a reef—Samoan plants—Houses—Animals—Laying foundation-stone of a church—School festival—the Navigator’s Isles,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_61'>61</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_x'>x</span> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' >Vanquished chiefs of the Puletoa faction under protection of the union-jack—Convent school—“Bully” Hayes—Postal difficulties—House of Godeffroy—Village of Mulinunu—Vegetables and fish—Advantages of Anglo-American companies,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_74'>74</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VIII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>The Ishmaelites of the Pacific—Injudicious intervention—Fa-Samoa picnic—A torchlight walk—Training college at Malua—Apt illustrations by native preachers—Dr Turner—Mission to the New Hebrides—Escape to Samoa—Of many changes on many isles,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_89'>89</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IX.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>A sketch of the Samoan mission—The Rev. John Williams determines to visit the Navigator’s Isles—Preliminary work in the Hervey group—Discovery of Rarotonga—Conversion of its people—They help Williams to build a ship which shall convey him to Samoa—Visit Tonga—Proceed to Samoa—Overthrow of idolatry—Reverence for old mats—Williams’s grave at Apia,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_118'>118</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER X.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Leave Samoa—Reach Tahiti—Grey shadows—Death of Queen Pomare—La Loire and her passengers—A general dispersion—Life ashore at Papeete—Admiral Serre and the royal family—Families of Salmon and Brander—Adoption,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_148'>148</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XI.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Papeete—Catholic mission—Protestant mission—A christening party—La Maison Brandère—Tales of the past—Evenings in Tahiti—La musique—Plans—Sunday,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_164'>164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Short sketch of a royal progress round Tahiti,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_177'>177</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>The royal progress round Tahiti—Life day by day—<i>Himènes</i>—A beautiful shore—Manufacture of arrowroot flowers—A deserted cotton plantation—Tahitian dancing—The Areois—Vanilla plantations—Fort of Taravao,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_182'>182</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xi'>xi</span> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIV.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>The royal progress round Tahiti (<i>continued</i>)—French fort at Taravou—The peninsula—Life in bird-cage houses—Torchlight procession—Return to Papeete,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_198'>198</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XV.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>The semaphore—Immutable tides—The coral-reef—Spearing fish—Netting—Catching sharks—A royal mausoleum—Superstitions of East and West—Centipedes—Intoxicating drinks—Influenza—Death of Mrs Simpson,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_210'>210</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVI.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>The royal progress round Moorea—The Seignelay starts for the Marquesas and Paumotus—Indecision,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_226'>226</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Vain regrets—Some account of the Marquesas and the Paumotu groups,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_236'>236</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVIII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Tahitian hospitality—A South Sea store—A bathing picnic—The Marquesans—Tattooing—Ancient games of Tahiti—Malay descent—Theory of a northerly migration,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_267'>267</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIX.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Life in Papeete—The market—Churches—Country life in the South Seas,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_286'>286</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XX.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Visit to the Protestant mission on Moorea—A sketch of the early history of the mission,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_294'>294</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXI.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>A healing tree—Plantation life—Vanilla crops—Cat-and-dog life—A foiled assassin—The tropics of to-day—England in days of yore—Among the crags—Infanticide—Heathen days,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_310'>310</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xii'>xii</span> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Life on Moorea—An ancient place of sacrifice—Arrival of H.M.S. Shah—Hospitalities on land and water,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_322'>322</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXIII.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>The atoll group of Tetiaroa,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_335'>335</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXIV.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>New Year’s Day in Tahiti—Ascent of Fautawa valley—Of palm salads, screw-pines, and bread-fruit—Packing mango-stones—Return of Gilbert Islanders—Departure of the Seignelay,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_339'>339</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXV.</td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'> </td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'>Hurricane at the Paumotus—Mahena plantation—Watching for vessels—Farewell to Tahiti,</td> + <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_353'>353</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_xiii'>xiii</span> + <h2 class='c006'>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> +</div> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr> + <th class='c011'></th> + <th class='c013'>PAGE</th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Papeete—Capital</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><i><a href='#Frontispiece'>Frontispiece</a></i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Trilithon, Tonga</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>A Coral Cave, Vavau</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_29'>29</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Opunohu Bay, Moorea</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_153'>153</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Le Diadème</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_169'>169</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>A Royal Reception, Haapiti</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_229'>229</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Pao Pao, or Cook’s Bay</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_230'>230</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Ancient Marai</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_324'>324</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Map</span>,</td> + <td class='c013'><i><a href='#end'>At the end</a></i></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<h3 class='c014'>NOTE.</h3> + +<p class='c015'>The “Wa Kalou,”—<i>i.e.</i>, “Fern of God,”—introduced on the cover of this +book, is a most delicate climbing fern which overtwines tall trees and shrubs +in the Pacific Isles, forming a misty veil of indescribable loveliness. When in +the state of fructification, each leaf is edged with a dotted fringe of brown +seed. In the Fijian Isles its beauty has gained for it the name here given; +and in olden days the ridge-poles of the temples were wreathed with it, as +those of chiefs’ houses are to this day. It also finds favour for personal adornment, +trailing garlands of this exquisite green being singularly becoming to a +clear brown skin.</p> + +<div class='chapter ph1'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>A LADY’S CRUISE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR.</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/p0010_deco.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +</div> +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER I.<br> <span class='c009'>LETTER TO ENGLAND ANNOUNCING START FROM FIJI—VAGUE PLANS.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Nasova, Fiji</span>, <i>5th Sept. 1877</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>My dear Eisa</span>,—I have only time for a line, to enclose a packet of +seed of a lovely shrub which bears clusters of golden bells. Also +to tell you that I am just starting for a cruise in a French man-of-war, +the Seignelay, commanded by Captain Aube, who is taking +Monseigneur Elloi, the Roman Catholic Bishop of Samoa, a round +of his diocese. Both are exceedingly pleasant, and have made +themselves much liked here. The officers are a particularly gentlemanlike +set. Judge of my amazement (accustomed to the rigid +regulations of the English navy), when these, as one man, echoed +an invitation given to me by the commander, to go for a cruise +over half the South Seas, where they purpose touching at many +isles, which I could by no possibility have any other chance of +seeing. Several of these most kind friends had placed their cabins +at the disposal of the captain, that he might offer me whichever +he considered most suitable. For the first day or two after this +invitation was made, we all treated it as a pleasant joke, never +<span class='pageno' id='Page_2'>2</span>imagining that it could be quite in earnest; but when at length +we all became convinced that it really was so, we agreed that there +really could be no reason for refusing so rare a chance of an expedition, +which will be to me most delightful.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So I am actually to embark this afternoon, Lady Gordon and +dear little sailor Jack, and Captain Knollys, accompanying me on +board, to see me fairly started.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This evening we sail for the Friendly Isles (Tonga), and thence +proceed to the Navigator’s Isles (Samoa), where there have been +serious disturbances, and where my friend Mrs Liardet, wife of the +British Consul, has for some time had about thirty chiefs living in +sanctuary in her house. I have long promised to visit her, should +an opportunity arise, so this is an admirable one. I shall probably +take a return passage thence in a German ship, and rejoin Lady +Gordon at Loma Loma, a point in this group, about one hundred +miles from here.</p> + +<p class='c008'>My French friends urge my going on to Tahiti, the loveliest isle +in the South Seas; but the utter uncertainty of how to get back +thence, either here or to Tasmania, where Lady Gordon hopes to +spend Christmas, makes me hesitate. If I could reach the Sandwich +Isles, I should then be on the direct line of the Pacific mail-steamers; +but Tahiti is utterly out of the world, and till the +Seignelay arrives there, she will not receive her further orders, and +may perhaps be sent to Valparaiso, which has no attractions for +me. So my line of march is at present somewhat undecided. I +think I shall almost certainly return here from Samoa; but as B. +long ago said, of my wandering propensities, that I was just like a +knotless thread, I may perhaps slip through, and you may hear of +my vanishing into space!</p> + +<p class='c008'>This place is looking lovely. It has improved wonderfully in +these two years, and has become so very homelike and pleasant, +that I quite grudge leaving it, with even the vague feeling of uncertainty +which attaches to any long journey; and though we all +expect to return here, after a winter in Tasmania, still, so many +contingencies may arise, that one always feels a home in the colonies +to be a very insecure tenure.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span>Now I must finish my packing, which requires a good deal of +consideration in case it <i>should</i> turn out that my locomotive demon +urges me onward, and that I <i>do</i> visit the Hawaiian Isles, and then +Tasmania, ere returning here.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I wish you could see my room here, now. It really is a museum—the +walls covered with trophies of all the strange Fijian things +I have collected during the last two years. I have just finished a +series of about sixty studies of Fijian pottery, representing a hundred +and fifty pieces, all different, and made without any wheel, by +the wives of the poor fishermen. Some of the forms are most +artistic, and the colour is very rich. No time for more. I will +write next from Tonga.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER II.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR—CONVENT-LIFE IN TONGA—EARLY MARTYRS—WESLEYAN MISSION—ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION—CYCLOPEAN TOMBS AT MUA—GIGANTIC TRILITHON—FINES AND TAXES—KING GEORGE TUPOU.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On Board Le Seignelay, off Tongatabu</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Friday, 7th Sept. 1877</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dear Lady Gordon</span>,—I may as well begin a letter at once, in +case of a chance of posting it by some stray ship, but as yet there +is none even on the horizon.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Is it possible that it was only last Wednesday afternoon when +you and Jack left me on board the Seignelay to try an entirely +new experiment in ship-life—only three days since we ate our first +<i>méringues</i> in that charming little dining-room, of which I now feel +such a thoroughly old inhabitant? I can scarcely believe it.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Still more wonderful, is it scarcely a fortnight since I first met +the amethystine bishop, and this extraordinarily kind captain, who +both seem like real old friends, as do, indeed, all the people on +board, from the officers and quartermasters, down to Antoine, the +Italian <i>maître d’hôtel</i>, who takes me under his especial charge, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>is as careful as any old nurse? I know that if I were sick he +would insist on coming to the rescue, but as yet he has not had +the smallest chance of showing me such attentions; for though we +had one really rough day, the ship is so very large and steady, that +you scarcely perceive any motion. You did not half see her; she +really is a noble vessel, and all her machinery is so beautifully +kept—such a display of polished brass and steel—brighter than on +most English men-of-war. Of course I have been duly lionised +over every corner of her, and I think the most novel sight of all, is +serving out rations, and seeing wine pumped up from huge vats, to +fill the small barrels, each of which represents eight men’s daily +allowance. What immense supplies must be laid in when such a +ship starts on a long cruise! They are sufficiently startling on +board such vessels as the Messageries Maritimes, where every soul +on board drinks <i>vin ordinaire</i> at every meal, and where there is +daily consumption of about two hundred bottles, and the store laid +in at Marseilles has to suffice for the voyage to Yokohama, and +back to Marseilles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The little cabin assigned to me is charming—so full of natty +contrivances to make the most of space, and all so pretty. I +believe that several of our kind friends on board have contributed +to make it so. One lent a beautifully carved mirror, another a +pin-cushion of pale-blue silk and lace. Fixed to the wall are +fascinating flower-vases of black Chilian pottery, brought from +Lima, and most delicate little <i>kava</i> bowls from the Wallis Isles, +now utilised to hold soap, sponge, and matches. I find a whole +chest of drawers empty, and various shelves, which I know can +only have been cleared at great inconvenience. A small bookcase +contains a very nice selection of French and English books—for +my especial host, M. de Gironde, has travelled a good deal in England +and in Scotland, and reads English well, as do several of the +others. Having so generously given me his cabin, he has taken +up his abode in the chart-room on the bridge, and declares he likes +it far better; that it is much cooler, and that he never was so +comfortable, &c. In short (in common with all the others), he +tries to make me really feel as if I were conferring a huge obligation +<span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>on the whole party by having come. Never were there such +hospitable people. I have had a good deal of spoiling in the course +of my life, but I never had it in such perfection as now. Every +creature on board is so cordial, that it would be quite impossible +not to feel so in return. I think my French is improving! I can +now distinguish the Brétons from the Provençals, and both from +the Parisians.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The officers are a pleasant, well-informed set, who have travelled +with their eyes open, and their relations with their fine old captain +are those of cordial sons with a father. It would be difficult for +any one accustomed to the rigid stiffness of the British navy to +understand such a condition. Even the frank kindliness with +which sub-officers and men are addressed, sounds to me as unusual +as it is pleasant. Life on this ship seems that of a happy family, +with the filial and paternal affections unusually well developed, and +M. Aube is generally the centre of a cheery group, chatting unreservedly +on whatever topic may arise.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At least two of the officers are daily invited to breakfast, and +two others to dinner in the captain’s little cabin, all coming in their +turn. And six or eight generally come in to evening tea, a ceremony +which, I suspect, has been instituted specially out of deference +to my supposed English habits. Besides the bishop and +myself, M. Pinart is also the captain’s guest, and I find him pleasant +and very ready to impart his information, which, as you know, +is considerable, on all scientific matters. The others have little +jokes at his expense, and declare that he is more of a Yankee than +a Frenchman. I can only say the combination is good.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The feeding is excellent, beginning with early chocolate. Breakfast +is at 9 o’clock, and ends with coffee and liqueurs, especially +most delicious Chartreuse, which some of us in an irreverent +whisper call “La meilleure œuvre des moines.” Dinner, with +similar ending, is at 5 o’clock, and tea at 8. Antoine has orders +to give me luncheon at 1, with due respect to English habits; but +I find this quite superfluous; so that ceremony falls through. By +the by, tell A. that his champagne-cup produced quite a sensation. +It was generally set down as being <i>de l’hydromel</i>, and the greatest +<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>curiosity prevails concerning its ingredients, which I, unfortunately, +am not able to satisfy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We are now about 250 miles east of Fiji, and sighted land this +afternoon; we have just anchored off Tonga, which certainly compares +unfavourably with our beautiful Fijian isles. This is the +dullest, flattest land I have yet seen—a low shore, fringed with +long lines of cocoa-palm, which, seen from the sea, are singularly +monotonous. The king’s town, Nukualofa, consists of a long row +of more or less ugly villas, stores, and barracks, built of wood and +painted white: one is bright-green. The houses are roofed with +zinc or shingle, and the general effect is that of a new English +watering-place. King George’s palace is a rather handsome +wooden building like a hotel, and is reserved for his guests. The +Government offices occupy another wooden building, and just +beyond them is the printing-office, in which a few books, a magazine, +and an almanac, are printed in the native tongue. A large +Wesleyan church, painted white, and with a very small steeple, +stands on a green hill on the site of an old fortification, and close +to it is the house of Mr Baker, Wesleyan missionary.</p> + +<p class='c008'>About a mile and a half along the shore is another village called +Maofanga, where there is another Wesleyan church, but it is +chiefly a Roman Catholic settlement; and near a neat thatched +chapel of the true Tongan type, I see a long pleasant-looking +bungalow, which I am told is a convent, the home of a society +of French Sisters. To-morrow morning I hope to go ashore and +see everything.</p> + +<hr class='c016'> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Saturday Night</i>,</div> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In my Cell, Convent of the Immaculate</span></div> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Conception, Maofanga</span>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>You see my experiences are rapidly enlarging. I have to-day +made my very first acquaintance with conventual life, and am +greatly interested by it, and by the exceedingly ladylike kind +women who, at a hint from the bishop, invited me to stay with +them as long as the ship is in harbour, and have given me this +clean, tidy wee room, which, though not luxurious, is some degrees +<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>more so than their own simple cells. I have a table, a chair, and +a tiny bedstead.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There are only four Sisters. The eldest, Sister Anna, is a very +old lady, but most courteous and friendly. Sœur Marie des Anges +is a cosy middle-aged woman, who has lately come from the convent +at Samoa to take care of Sœur Marie des Cinq Plaies, a +sweet, pretty young woman, with a terrible cough, and evidently +fast dying of consumption. The fourth sister, Sœur Marie-Jésu, +is Irish. All are most gentle and kind, and seem deeply interested +in their schools and the care of a large number of nice-looking +women and children. I think myself most fortunate in having +been invited to stay here, instead of finding quarters in the ugly, +pretentious town of foreign houses, which, whatever advantages they +may possess, are quite opposed to all our predilections in favour of +native architecture.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The surroundings here are calm and quiet. Through a frame of +tall palms, with ever-waving fronds, we look to the blue harbour, +where the friendly big ship lies mirrored—a ship which, to these +good Sisters, is a link to that dear home-land, <i>la belle France</i>, +which they do so love, but to which they have bidden a long farewell, +in devotion to their mission work in these far isles. The +schoolroom is under the same roof, and full of bright intelligent +girls. At sunset there were vespers in the church close by, and, +as the delicate sister was ordered to stay at home, and do her part +by ringing the Angelus, we sat together and listened to the singing, +which was very good,—the Tongan rendering of Canticles and +harmonised Litanies being excellent. The harmonium is played +by Père Lamaze, who is a good musician. Another father, a fine +old Bréton priest, is the architect of a handsome wooden church +now in process of erection. (When the Seignelay touched at the +Wallis Isles on their way to Fiji, the bishop consecrated a really +very fine new church there; and as the Roman Catholic Mission in +those isles is very strong, there seem to have been wonderful rejoicings +on the occasion. Among the offerings of the people were +150 pigs, which are being gradually consumed by the crew.)</p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning, soon after breakfast, Captain Aube landed me, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>in charge of M. Berryer and M. Pinart, to explore the hideous +town. The shore-reef is so wide that at low tide there is a broad +expanse of slimy mud and sharp coral; so it was with some difficulty +that we effected a landing, just below the king’s house, +whence floated the flag of Tonga, which is red, with a white cross +on one corner. King George has a guard of two hundred men, +some of whom are arrayed in scarlet, and a detachment of these +were on duty, expecting a formal visit from the captain and the +bishop,—which, however, did not come off till the afternoon, when +there was much saluting—twenty-one guns fired from the ship, +and twenty-one returned.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We naturally made for the highest point of this very flat town—namely, +the Wesleyan church, which, though it only stands about +fifty feet above the sea, commands a good bird’s-eye view of its surroundings—thatched +roofs just seen through luxuriant bread-fruit +trees, cocoa-palms, and large-leaved bananas, with scarlet hybiscus +and rosy oleanders to give an occasional touch of colour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Close to the church is the grave of the commander of an +English man-of-war, who, forty years ago, allowed his valour to +overcome his discretion, and himself led an armed force to assist +the present King George in asserting his claim to the throne. +In charging a stockade he and several of his men were killed, and +an English gun was captured, which still lies at the village of Bea, +about four miles from here.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another very sad memory clings to this place—namely, that of +the barbarous massacre in the year 1799 of three of the very first +missionaries who ever landed in the South Pacific. A party of +ten men were sent to Tonga in 1796 by the London Mission, and +for three years they contrived to hold their ground, till, on the +breaking out of a civil war, three of their number were murdered, +and the others were compelled to fly, and conceal themselves as +best they could. On this occasion, as on almost every other when +the lives of Christian teachers have been sacrificed, the action of +the savages was distinctly due to the influence of wicked white +men. The culprit at Tonga was an escaped English convict, who, +having won the ear of the king, persuaded him that these men +<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>were wizards, and that an epidemic, which was then raging, was +due to their malignant sorceries. So, at the bidding of this +scoundrel, the poor savages murdered their true friends.</p> + +<p class='c008'>That any should have escaped was due to the most providential +and unlooked-for arrival of a ship captured in the Spanish war +and brought to Tahiti—whence a member of that mission undertook +to navigate her to New South Wales, on condition she +might call at Tongatabu, to see how it fared with his brethren in +the Friendly Isles. Thus happily were the survivors rescued, and +the mission abandoned, till the Wesleyans ventured to reoccupy +the dangerous ground, with what success we well know, seeing +that to the aid given by their Tongan converts was due much of +their wonderful progress in Fiji. On the green hill of Nukualofa +are the graves of those early martyrs, shadowed by dark, mournful +casuarina trees.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Leaving the church, on the little grassy hill, we descended to +the dead level, and passed long rows of thatched houses embowered +in flowering shrubs, with banana and pine-apple gardens. These +are the homes of the mission students and their families,—all +very tidy, and with well-kept grass paths and green lawn all +round.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All the native houses here are oval in form, having both ends +rounded. They have the same deep thatch as the Fijian houses, +generally of reeds or wild sugar-cane. The walls are of plaited +cocoa-palm leaves or reeds interlaced. The houses have no stone +foundation to raise them above the damp earth, and in many of the +poorer huts the floors are merely strewn with dried grass instead of +having neat mats, such as the poorest Fijian would possess. Only +in the wealthier houses did we see coarse mats, made of pandanus. +In the majority, however, there is an inner room screened off to +form a separate sleeping corner; and we noticed that the Tongan +pillow closely resembles that of Fiji, being merely a bit of bamboo +supported by two legs. The cooking is generally done in a hut by +itself, built over an oven in the ground; but a good many ovens +are <i>al fresco</i>, and the daily yams, or the pig of high festivals, are +baked quite in public.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>Mr Baker,<a id='r1'></a><a href='#f1' class='c017'><sup>[1]</sup></a> who is the head of the mission here, was absent, but +we called on his wife, who received us kindly, and made me a +present of a pretty Tongan basket and combs. She regretted that +she could not offer to take me for a drive, her carriage having come +to grief. There are all manner of vehicles here—wonderful in our +eyes after having so long looked with reverence on the engineer’s +wheel-barrow as the only wheeled conveyance in Fiji! There are +also a number of horses, descendants of those left here by Captain +Cook, <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 1777, which the Tongans ride at a hard gallop, with +a tether rope round their necks in lieu of a bridle. Finding that +Nukualofa was utterly lacking in picturesque incident (at least so +it appeared to eyes satiated with Fijian beauty of scenery), we +followed a broad grass path which runs along the shore and intersects +the isle. Like everything else here, it is in apple-pie order. +King George is too wise to waste the labour of his subjects, albeit +convicts; so instead of useless stone-drill or treadmill, all Tongan +criminals labour for the good of their brethren, eminently to the +improvement of the isle. How often, in India and Ceylon, when +unable to close my ears to the monotonous word of command of +some police sergeant, “Take up—put down,” “Take up—put +down,” I have watched the cruel waste of human strength expended +on lifting a heavy stone, carrying it so many paces, and +putting it down—and then doing the same thing again, and again, +and again, in the stifling heat of a tropical sun! Would that our +prison disciplinarians might borrow a hint of wisdom from this +once savage Tongan king!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Following the pleasant path, beneath the shadow of greenest +bananas, with the sunlight streaming in mellow gold through the +tall palms far overhead, we reached the village of Maofanga, where +we found the bishop at the house of the Fathers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Père Lamaze then brought me here to the good Sisters, who +received me with open arms. The delicate one immediately slipped +<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>out to do a little preliminary milking, that she might give me a cup +of delicious fresh milk, and with it she brought me some lovely +blossoms from the little garden in which the Sisters cultivate tall +French lilies and a few other flowers to mingle with the abundant +pink oleanders, in their church decorations.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After vespers, the day’s work being done, they came to my cell, +and we all sat down on the mats and had a pleasant little gossip. +I think that a breath from the outside wicked world cannot quite +have lost all charm, and two at least of these ladies have evidently +lived in good French society. Now they have gone to their cells, +and there is not a sound in the quiet night. My door opens on to +a verandah leading into the garden, and just beyond lies a peaceful +burial-ground—neatly kept graves of Christian Tongans, some +marked with simple crosses, and overgrown with flowers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now I must say good-night, as to-morrow will be a long day.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Monday 10th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>On Sunday morning I was awakened before dawn by hearing +the Sisters astir. They were lighting their own tiny chapel, where, +at sunrise, they had an early celebration, in order that they might +not be obliged to remain fasting till the later service.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At 7.30 they brought me <i>café au lait</i> in my cell, and at 8 we +went together to high Mass in the large native church. Of course +there was a very full congregation, as, the better to impress the +native mind, all the French sailors were paraded, to say nothing of +all the officers, who, dressed in full uniform, were ranged in a semicircle +inside the altar-rails, on show—a very trying position, especially +to the excellent captain, who, though a thoroughly good man, +would scarcely be selected as a very rigid Catholic. Indeed I cannot +think that devotion to the Church is a marked characteristic of +this mission-ship.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Accustomed only to see the good bishop in his ordinary garb of +rusty black and faded purple, it was startling to see him assume the +gorgeous Episcopal vestments of gold brocade with scarlet linings—the +mitre, which was put off and on so frequently at different +parts of the service, and all the other ecclesiastical symbols. The +<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>friendly priests, too, were hard to recognise in their richly brocaded +vestments; and I confess that to my irreverent eyes the predominance +of yellow and scarlet, and a good many other things besides, +forcibly recalled the last gorgeous ritualistic services I had witnessed +in many Buddhist temples in Ceylon, and on the borders of Thibet. +Such impressions tend to wandering thoughts, and mine, I fear, are +apt to become rather “mixed.” Anyhow it was a relief when the +scarlet and gold vestments were replaced by purple, with beautiful +white lace. All the accessories were excellent. A native played +the harmonium well, and Tongan <i>enfants de chœur</i> chanted the service +admirably. Altogether the scenic effect was striking.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Chairs had been provided for all the foreigners present, and of +course I sat with the Sisters, though it would have seemed more +natural to curl up on a mat beside the native women, as we do in +Fiji. These Catholic Tongans so far retain their former customs, +that they continue to sit on the ground, although the polished +wooden floor, which has replaced the soft grass and mats of old +days, is not exactly a luxurious seat.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the Wesleyan churches, which are here built as much as +possible on ugly foreign models, regular benches are the rule. I +trust it will be long ere our simple and suitable churches in Fiji +are replaced by buildings of that sort. I grieve to say that this is +by no means the only point in which the natives here have departed +from primitive custom. Not content with the noble work of utterly +exterminating idolatry and cannibalism, the teachers in these isles +are afflicted with an unwholesome belief in foreign garments, and +by every means in their power encourage the adoption of European +cloth and unbecoming dresses; consequently many of the Tongan +men glory in full suits of black, while some of the girls appear +in gaudy and vulgar hats, trimmed with artificial flowers. Imagine +these surmounting a halo of spiral curls!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Is it not strange that this admirable mission, which has done +such magnificent work in these isles, cannot be content to allow its +Tongan converts the same liberty in outer matters as its wise representatives +in Fiji allow their congregations? Here the “gold ring +and goodly apparel” are promoted to the foremost stiff benches. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>There the distracting “care for raiment” is reduced to a minimum, +and all the people kneel together devoutly, on the soft accustomed +mats, in houses of the same type as their cool pleasant homes, +without a thought that a building of a European type, with hard +uncomfortable seats, and unbecoming foreign clothes, can render +their prayer and praise more acceptable to their Father in heaven.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nothing astonishes me more, in reading any of the early missionary +records of grand work done in these seas, than the frequent +laudatory allusions to the general adoption by the converts of +some fearful and wonderful head-dress, in imitation of the hideous +bonnets of our grandmothers, and worn by the wives of the early +missionaries. Immense praise was bestowed on the ingenious +females who, under the direction of those excellent women, succeeded +in manufacturing coal-scuttle bonnets of cocoa-palm leaves. +Still more startling was the same monstrous form, when cunningly +joined pieces of thin tortoise-shell were the materials used to +imitate the brown silk bonnet of England! We may well rejoice +that these horrors are no longer an integral feature of Christianity +in the South Seas! It is sufficiently dreadful to see the ultra +“respectable” classes donning coats, waistcoats, and trousers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Immediately after service I returned to luncheon on board, to +be ready to start with Monseigneur Elloi for Mua, which is the +principal Roman Catholic station here, distant about twelve miles. +A large man-of-war boat with twelve rowers carried the bishop’s +party, which consisted of two Fathers, and four of the ship’s +officers. Several others got horses and rode across the isle. A +party of Tongan students filled another boat. Wind, tide, and +current being against us, the journey took three hours. It is a +dreary coast, everywhere bound by a wide expanse of villanous +shore-reef, which makes landing simply impossible. The approach +to Mua is by a channel which seemed to me several miles long, +and is like a river cut through the reef, which edges it on either +side. Here we rowed against a sweeping current, and the men +had hard work to make way.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On reaching Mua we found the riders awaiting us, and a great +procession of priests, headed by Père Chevron, a fine grey-haired +<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>old man, who has been toiling here for thirty-five years. Scarlet and +white-robed acolytes and others, carried really handsome flags and +banners. Their chanting was excellent. They escorted the bishop +to the beautiful Tongan church, which is a building of purely native +type, with heavy thatch, and all the posts, beams, and other timbers +are fastened together without the use of a single nail. All are tied +with strong vines from the forests, and plaited over with sennit—<i>i.e.</i>, +string of divers fibres,—of hybiscus, cocoa-palm, pandanus, and +other plants, ranging in colour through all shades of yellow, brown, +and black. These are laid on in beautiful and most intricate patterns, +and form a very effective and essentially Polynesian style of +decoration. The altar, which is entirely of native manufacture, +is really very fine. It is made of various island woods, inlaid +with whales’-tooth ivory and mother-of-pearl. All the decorations +in this church are in excellent taste, and bespeak most loving +care. Here, as at Maofanga, comfort is sacrificed to appearance +by the substitution of a polished wooden floor for the accustomed +mats. I cannot say I think this an improvement, as it is a hard +seat during a long service.</p> + +<p class='c008'>However, on this occasion I did not experience its discomfort, +for, shocking to say, in view of the example to the natives, none +of us attended the service, but all went off at once, guided by M. +Pinart (whose antiquarian instincts had already led him thither), +to the tombs of the Toui Tongas, the old kings of Tonga. They +are formed of gigantic blocks of volcanic rock, said to have been +brought to these flat isles from the Wallis group. They are laid +in three courses of straight lines, like cyclopean walls, and lie +at intervals through the bush. They are much overgrown with +tangled vegetation, especially with the widespreading roots of many +banyan trees, and though wonderful, are not sketchable.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In olden days, when the Toui-Tonga was here laid to his rest, +his favourite wife and most valued possessions were buried with +him. All his subjects, young and old, male and female, shaved +their heads and mourned for four months. Those engaged in preparing +his sacred body for the grave were obliged to live apart for +ten months, as being <i>tabu</i> or sacred.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>When the corpse had been deposited on this great burial-mound, +all the men, women, and children assembled, and sat round in a +great circle, bearing large torches made of dried palm-leaves. Six +of the principal men then walked several times round and round +the place of burial, in sunwise procession, waving the blazing +torches on high; finally, these were extinguished and laid on the +ground. Then all the people arose and made the sunwise circuit +of the royal tombs, as has been done from the earliest days, by +men of all nations and colours,<a id='r2'></a><a href='#f2' class='c017'><sup>[2]</sup></a> and then they, too, extinguished +the emblematic torches, and laid them on the earth, in memory of +him whose flame of life had passed away for ever from the poor +dead clay. This ceremony was repeated on fourteen successive +nights.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The mystery in all antiquities of this sort lies in the problem, +how a race possessed only of stone adzes could possibly have +hewn these huge blocks in the first instance, and how they then +transported them on their frail canoes across wide distances of +open sea. Tombs of the same character were common to all these +groups, and were called <i>marais</i>. They combined the purpose of +mausoleums of the chiefs, and of temples where human and other +sacrifices were offered.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some of them were of gigantic dimensions. Captain Cook +described one at Papara in Tahiti, which consisted of an immense +pyramid, 267 feet long by 87 wide, standing on a pavement +measuring 360 feet by 354. On its summit stood a wooden +image of a bird, and a fish carved in stone, representing the creatures +especially reverenced by that tribe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The pyramid was, in fact, a huge cairn of round pebbles, “which, +from the regularity of their figure, seem to have been wrought.” +It was faced with great blocks of white coral, neatly squared and +polished, and laid in regular courses, forming eleven great steps, +each of which was 4 feet high, so that the height of the pile was +44 feet. Some of these stones were upwards of 3 feet in length +and 2½ in width. The pavement on which the pyramid was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>built was of volcanic rock, also hewn into shape, some of the +stones being even larger than the coral blocks, and all perfectly +joined together, without mortar.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As Captain Cook found no trace of any quarry in the neighbourhood, +he inferred that these blocks must have been carried from a +considerable distance; and even the coral with which the pyramid +was faced, lies at least three feet under the water. The question, +therefore, which puzzled him, as it does us this day, was, how did +these savages, ignorant of all mechanical appliances, and possessing +no iron tools, contrive to hew these wonderful <i>marais</i>, which +were the temples and tombs of every Polynesian group? The +majority were pulled to pieces by the natives when they abandoned +idolatry, but happily for the antiquarian, some of the tombs +of the mighty dead escaped these over-zealous reformers; and +though the coral altars are no longer polluted by human blood, +the grey ruins still remain, now overgrown by forest-trees, and +more solemn in their desolation than when those hideous rites +were practised by the poor savages at the bidding of ruthless +priests.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the course of our walk we saw some lovely little pigeons, +bright-green with purple head, and a number of larger ones, green +and yellow. Also many small bats skimming about the cocoa-palms, +darting to and fro in pursuit of the insects which make +their home in the crown of the tree. Towards dusk a multitude +of fruit-bats with soft fur appeared, flapping on heavy wing, and +feeding on the flowers of various tall trees. We also noticed a +number of tree swifts, reminding us forcibly of our own swallows: +like them they skim airily about the houses, but instead of resting +under the eaves, they seek a safer home in the tall palms.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Returning to the village, we lingered beneath the fine old trees +known as Captain Cook’s, till summoned by the Fathers to supper +at their house, which stands close to the church. They gave us +the best they had,—namely, salt-junk and villanously cooked cabbage, +whereat their naval guests secretly groaned, and bewailed the +excellent <i>cuisine</i> they had left on board; but to these good ascetics +such fare seemed too luxurious, so, although it was Sunday, and a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>great festival, they would taste nothing but a few slices of yam. I +find them most interesting companions, having been so long in the +isles, that they are familiar with all details of native manners and +customs. The old Père Chevron is particularly pleasant. He has +worked here for several years longer than our good old friend Père +Bréhéret of Levuka, to whom he bade me send his loving greetings, +which I hope you will deliver.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After supper with the Fathers, a kind Scotchwoman, Mrs Barnard, +the only white woman in the place, came to take me to +her house for the night, where she made me most comfortable, +though I could not but fear that she and her husband had given +me their own room. He is agent for a merchant’s house in the +colonies. I found my hostess was a Cameron from Lochaber, who +has retained her pure Gaelic tongue, and speaks both it and English +with the sweet intonation ascribed to the Princess of Thule. Great +was her delight when she learnt the real name of her guest, and +many a pleasant reminiscence she had to tell of certain of my own +nearest kindred.... We talked of mutual friends in the dear +old north and on the west coast, and many a touching memory was +reawakened for us both. Verily the ends of the world are bound +by tender human links!</p> + +<p class='c008'>My hostess was herself astir long before dawn, to prepare breakfast +for her countrywoman, as I was to make an early expedition +with my French friends to Haamonga, distant about eight miles, to +see a wonderful trilithon. The Fathers lent us their dogcart, but +had no horse. However, they succeeded in borrowing one, which +M. Pinart volunteered to drive. It proved a brisk trotter, and we +sped along cheerily. Most of the others rode, escorted by two +<i>kanaques</i>—a word which, though it simply means “a man,” is used +by the French as a generic term for all manner of islanders in +North and South Pacific.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was a lovely morning and a delightful drive, over a good +broad grass road—the bush on either side fragrant with jessamine, +and the trees in many places matted with such tangles of large, +brilliantly blue convolvulus as I have seen nowhere else but in the +Himalayas. The lilac marine ipomæa abounds everywhere, and we +<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>passed dense masses of the large-leaved white sort. From these +lovely hiding-places flashed green pigeons and blue kingfishers, +startled by our approach. Tall sugar-cane, wild ginger with scarlet +blossom, and blue clitoria, with here and there a clump of glossy +bananas or quaint papawa, kept up the tropical character of the +vegetation.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We had no difficulty in finding the great dolmen of which we +were in search. It stands on a grassy lawn, surrounded by bush, +and is certainly a remarkable object. It differs from all other +trilithons I have seen or heard of, in that the two supporting +pillars are cut out at the top to secure the transverse capstone, +which is hewn.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The height above ground is 15 feet, length 18 feet, and the +width 12 feet. Nothing whatever is known concerning its origin, +and the natives have apparently no tradition concerning it.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This is the only rude stone monument I have seen in the Pacific, +but I am told that others have been observed in different groups, +though on a smaller scale; for instance, in the Society Isles, where +the great altar of the principal <i>marai</i> on Huahine is a large slab of +unhewn stone, resting on three boulders. Around it are the rock-terraces +which formed the rude temple.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Haamonga the cyclopean trilithon stands alone. All others +known to us, such as those at Stonehenge, at Tripoli, Algeria, and +in Central America, are found in connection with circles of huge +stones, to which they have apparently been the gateway; but here +there does not appear to have been any circle, not even a detached +dolmen.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In its weird solitude it most resembles the cromlech of Byjnath +in Bengal; but what may be its story none can possibly guess. +One thing only is certain, that these grey stones were brought here +by some long-forgotten race, who little dreamt, when they raised +this ponderous monument, that a day would come when <i>it</i> should +survive as the sole proof that <i>they</i> ever existed.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/p0181_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>TRILITHON ON TONGATABU<br> <br> FRIENDLY ISLES.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We have been told that within the memory of persons now +living, an enormous <i>kava</i> bowl stood on the horizontal stone, and +that most solemn and sacred drinking festivals were held here. It +<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>is very probable that this may have been the case, as the people +would, in heathen days, very naturally retain some tradition of +reverence for the trilithon, as the peasants of Brittany, and, I may +say, of Britain, do for similar erections to the present day, assembling +for annual festivals at “the stones,” though the origin +of Carnac, Stonehenge, and Stennis, is as unknown as that of +Haamonga.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Returning to the village we saw that the church was crowded, +and that there were a number of candidates for confirmation. +Judging that the service would occupy some time, and being +anxious to see as much of the neighbourhood as possible, we drove +along the coast to a particularly fine banyan, noted in Captain +Cook’s chart, and beneath its shadow we rested awhile, and enjoyed +a very pleasant half-hour overlooking a calm, beautiful sea.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We reached Mua just as the congregation was dispersing, and +were troubled with some qualms on the score of our bad example, +but the considerate bishop gave us full absolution. I regret to say +that a considerable proportion of the people were like hideously-dressed-up +apes, masculine and feminine—many of the former in +seedy black clothes, and some of the latter attired in gay flimsy +silk gowns, inflated with large crinolines, and with baby hats, +trimmed with pink and blue flowers, stuck on the top of their +fuzzy heads. Hitherto, as you know, my ideas of Tongans have +been derived only from the stately men and women who have +settled in Fiji, and there, like their neighbours, have retained the +graceful drapery of native cloth. Here the influence of certain +persons interested in trade is so strong, that the manufacture of +<i>tappa</i> is discouraged by every possible means; and a heavy penalty +attaches to making it on any, except one, day in the week. It +seems that this law was passed in King George’s absence, and I am +happy to learn that he was exceedingly angry—though, as yet, the +law stands unrepealed, and the manufacture is doomed to cease +altogether this year.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Whoever is to blame, the system of taxation and fines is something +astounding. A woman who is found without a pinafore, +even in her own house, is fined two dollars, no matter how ample +<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>is her petticoat. Should she venture beyond her threshold minus +this garment, she is liable to a fine of three dollars. If caught +smoking, she is fined two and a half dollars, and one and a half +dollar costs. Imagine such legislation for a people whose highest +proof of reverence in olden days was to strip themselves to the +waist in presence of their king, or on approaching a sacred spot, +and who still consider any upper garment as altogether superfluous—a +people, moreover, whose very nature it is to be for ever rolling +up minute cigarettes for themselves and their friends!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The most atrocious of all the regulations is one inflicting a fine +of ten dollars on any man found without a shirt, though wearing +such a <i>sulu</i> (kilt) as would in Fiji be considered full dress, either +at church or Government House. One of the lads told us he had +actually been made to pay this fine a few days ago, having put off +his shirt while fishing. Wet or dry they must wear the unaccustomed +foreign clothing, instead of the former coating of oil, which +made these people as impervious to water as so many ducks. But +whether by compulsion or for vainglory, the hideous foreign clothes +are worn during the burning heat of the day; then, under the +friendly veil of night, comfort and economy are consulted by dispensing +with superfluous garments; and so the heavy night-dews +act with double power, and chills produce violent coughs, which +too often end in consumption and death.<a id='r3'></a><a href='#f3' class='c017'><sup>[3]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>These people, like most kindred races when brought in contact +with civilisation, are fast dying out. I believe there are now only +about 9000 in the Tongan group, 5000 on Happai, and 5000 in +Vavau district. They certainly are a very fine well-built race, +with clear yellowish-brown skin and Spanish colouring; they also +resemble Spaniards or Italians in their animation of expression,—the +muscles of the forehead working in a most remarkable manner, +especially to express wonder or interest. They have fine faces, +well-developed forehead, strong chin, and features generally like +those of an average good-looking European. Not the slightest +approach to the “blubber lips and monkey faces” of negro races, +or of the isles lying nearer to the equator. On the contrary, the +mouth is well formed, and shows beautiful teeth. The eyes are +invariably dark brown, generally large and clear. The beard, +moustaches, and eyebrows are allowed to retain their natural glossy +black; but, as in Fiji, the hair is dyed of a light sienna by frequent +washing in coral-lime, and encircles the head with a yellow +halo, strangely in contrast with the dark eyes and eyebrows. Like +that of the Papuan, rather than the pure Polynesian races, it takes +the form of a mop of innumerable very fine spiral curls, of which +each individual hair twists itself into a tight corkscrew. It is crisp +and glossy, and very elastic; and if you draw it out full length, it +at once springs back to its natural form. Some of the women now +allow their hair to grow quite long. Both men and women march +along with a proud overbearing gait that always gives one an impression +that they look on all other races with something of contempt.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>Our morning’s work had given us such keen appetites that we +did more than justice to the breakfast which awaited us at the +Fathers’ house, though it must be confessed that the fare was of +the coarsest; it was, however, the very best they had to offer, and +was evidently considered quite a feast. My comrades congratulated +one another that such viands did not often fall to their lot!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Immediately after breakfast we started on our return journey +with a high tide. Wind and current being in our favour, we flew +down the river-like passage through the wide coral-reef, which we +had ascended with such toil, and less than two hours brought us +back to the good ship, and to cordial greeting from her genial +captain. He had invited King George of Tonga and his grandson +to dine on board, to meet the bishop and the Fathers, and I was +invited to join the party. The king, who ought properly to be +called Tupou or Toubo, which is the surname of all the royal +family, was received with a salute of twenty-one guns—the ship +dressed and yards manned, with sailors shouting “Vive la République!” +(an institution to which, I fancy, that most men on +board are profoundly indifferent—in fact several are declared +royalists, and faithful adherents of Henri V.)</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Tongans were duly conducted all over the ship, and examined +machinery, guns, men’s quarters, and every detail, with +apparent interest. A long dinner followed, from which I escaped +as soon as I conveniently could.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The king is a very fine old man, in height about 6 feet 2 inches. +He was dressed in a general’s full uniform, and his grandson in +that of an aide-de-camp—cocked-hat, &c. I confess I think that +Thakombau and Maafu, in their drapery of Fijian <i>tappa</i>, are far +more imposing figures. The king’s son, Unga, is at present seriously +ill. His three sons govern the three groups into which +this island-kingdom of Tonga divides itself—namely, Tongatabu, +Happai, and Vavau. There are only about sixty isles in all, and +their area is about 600 square miles; so this is a small matter +compared with the 7000 square miles of Fiji. I am told that +here the land all belongs to the king, so that any one wishing to +settle can only do so as a tenant, leasing land from his Majesty.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>The feast being over, <i>le Roi kanaque</i> departed amid blue and +green lights, one of which was reserved for us—<i>i.e.</i>, the ecclesiastical +party—returning to the priest’s house and to the convent, +where the pleasant Sisters awaited me with kindest welcome; and +we all sat on the mats in my cell and chatted for a while.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now I am so very cold that I must go to bed. I think this +climate must be far more trying than that of Fiji. The heat in +the daytime feels to me greater, and every night is bitterly cold, +necessitating piles of rugs and blankets; while the dew is so +drenching that the roofs always drip as if there had been heavy +rain. I do not wonder at the delicate little Sœur Marie having +fallen into consumption. It carries off many strong natives.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Tuesday Night.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Wasn’t it just cold when I left off writing! I lay awake shivering +for two hours, though wrapped up in blanket, cloak, and big +tartan plaid. I find that the island of Tongatabu is known all +over the group as the cold isle, and I am ready to endorse the +title.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I devoted this forenoon to a sketch of this hospitable cottage-convent, +and in the afternoon went alone to see Mrs Baker, who +took me to visit the queen—a fine old lady, but very helpless, +having dislocated her hip by a fall eight years ago. She was +sitting on the bare boards in a wretched little room of a small +house close to the large villa or palace in which King George +receives his guests, but in which he never lives, preferring that his +home should be <i>faka-Tonga</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, adhering to native customs so +far as is consistent with keeping up appearances. But here, again, +we were struck by the uncomfortable substitution of a hard wooden +floor for the soft mats of a truly native home. As civilised houses +are glazed, the poor old queen, though much oppressed with heat, +sat beside a glass window, shaded by a filthy tattered rag which +had once been a curtain, but which in its palmiest days had been +immeasurably inferior to a handsome drapery of native cloth: indeed +the only symptom of comfort in the place was a curtain +of Fijian <i>tappa</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>The king and his chiefs were in council over church matters in +a small room adjoining the queen’s, so we had to talk in whispers. +Various female relations were grouped round the door, making the +hot room still hotter. I am much struck by the fact that these +proud Tongans make use of no titles. The Fijians always prefix +the word <i>Andi</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, Lady—to the name of a woman of rank; +but here the name is used bluntly, whether in addressing a princess +or her handmaid.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Hearing of the grave assembly of the chiefs to discuss the affairs +of the Wesleyan Church, brought back vividly to my mind all +that I had heard in former days of this very King George, and of +the prominent part taken by him in rousing these islanders to +abandon their gross heathenism and cannibalism. So effectual has +been his work, that now not one trace of these old evils remains, +and these islanders are looked upon as old-established Christians.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I had a pleasant walk back in the twilight, along the broad +grass road which runs parallel with the sea, and am now spending +my last evening in this peaceful convent. I am truly sorry that +it is the last, for it will feel like leaving real friends to part from +these kind Sisters, who make much of me, and do enjoy coming to +sit with me in the evenings for a little quiet chat. They bring all +my meals in here, as it is against their rules to allow me to feed +with them in the refectory. In this respect they are far more +rigorous than the Fathers, who, as you know, have invited me to +supper and breakfast at their house.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER III.<br> <span class='c009'>SAIL FROM TONGA TO VAVAU—VOLCANO OF TOFUA—WESLEYAN MISSION—TWO THOUSAND MILES FROM A DOCTOR—ORANGE-GROVES—A LOVELY SEA LAKE—CORAL CAVES.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>On Board Le Seignelay</span>,</div> + <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 12th September 1877</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Here I am once more safely ensconced in my favourite niche, +which is the carriage of a big gun. Filled with red cushions, it +makes a capital sofa, and is a cosy, quiet corner, and a capital +<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>point of observation, whence, without being in the way, I can +look down on the various manœuvres on deck—parades, gun practice, +fire-parade, and so forth. We embarked this morning +early, the four Sisters, by special sanction of the bishop, coming +to see the last of me, and to breakfast with M. Aube;—an outrageous +piece of dissipation, they said, but almost like once again +setting foot in France. Four of the priests likewise escorted the +bishop, and we had an exceedingly cheerful ecclesiastical breakfast-party, +after which came a sorrowful parting, and then we sailed +away from Tonga, taking with us the Père Padel, a fine old +Bréton Father.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We are now passing through the Happai group, and hope to-night +to catch a glimpse of the volcano of Tofua, or, as it is also +called by the natives, <i>Coe afi a Devolo</i> (the Devil’s fire). It is a +perfect volcanic cone 2500 feet in height, densely wooded to the +edge of the crater. Strange to say, though the isle simply consists +of this one active volcano, there is said to be a lake on the +summit of the mountain. It is not stated to be a geyser; but the +Tongans who visit it bring back small black pebbles, which they +strew on the graves of their dead.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Happai group consists of about forty small isles, some +purely volcanic, and others, as usual, combining coral on a volcanic +foundation. About twenty of these are inhabited.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Neiafu, Vavau</span>, <i>Thursday Evening</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The volcano proved to be quiescent. Not even a curl of +luminous smoke betrayed its character. The sea, however, made +amends by the brilliancy of its phosphoric lights. It was a dead +calm, and from beneath the surface shone a soft mellow glow, +caused, I am told, by vast shoals of living creatures, as though the +mermaids were holding revel beneath the waves, and had summoned +all their luminous subjects to join in the dance. I know +few things in nature more fascinating than this lovely fairy-like +illumination. Its tremulous glow and occasional brilliant shooting +flashes are to me always suggestive of our own northern lights—a +sort of marine aurora.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>Our course this morning was very pretty, steaming for many +miles through narrow and intricate passages between the richly +wooded headlands of Vavau, the great island, and many outlying +islets. Finally, we anchored in what seemed like a quiet landlocked +lake, at the village of Neiafu.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The bishop went ashore at once, and was reverently welcomed +by two priests, one of whom, Père Bréton, has been here for about +thirty years, living a life so ascetic as to amaze even his brethren, +so completely does mind appear to have triumphed over matter. +We sinners all agree that having each been intrusted with the +care of an excellent animal, we are only doing our duty by feeding +and otherwise caring for it to the best of our ability. So the +ascetic example is one which we reverence, but have no intention +of following, cold water and yam, day after day, being truly uninviting. +But the old man has not forgotten how to be genial and +kind to others, and is a general favourite.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Roman Catholic flock here is small, as is also the church, +which, however, is very neat. The Wesleyan Mission flourishes +here, as it does throughout these Friendly Isles. In the three +groups—namely, Tonga, Happai, and Vavau, it has 125 chapels, +with an average attendance of 19,000 persons, of whom 8000 are +church members. Four white missionaries superintend the work +of 13 native ministers, upwards of 100 schoolmasters, and above +150 local preachers. At the Tubou Theological College—so named +in honour of King George Tubou—there are about 100 students +preparing for work as teachers or pastors.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I landed with M. Pinart, and a half-caste Samoan woman, who +could talk some English, acted as our interpreter with the widow +of the late “governor,” a large comely woman, who invited us to +her cool Tongan house, where friendly, pleasant-looking girls peeled +delicious oranges faster than we could eat them. This whole village +and district is one orange-grove; every house is embowered in large +orange-trees—the earth is strewn with their fruit, the air fragrant. +What an enchanting change after Tonga, where there are no orange-trees, +and where a sense of stiffness and over-regulation seemed to +pervade life!</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>The present “governor” is a fine tall young chief, rejoicing in +the name of Wellington. He is acting for his father, Unga, King +George’s illegitimate son, whom he has declared heir to the throne, +but who is at present in very bad health. The young chief seems +inclined to hold the reins firmly and well. But at present the +Vavau chiefs are in some disgrace with King George, as they are +suspected of plotting against Unga, in favour of Maafu.<a id='r4'></a><a href='#f4' class='c017'><sup>[4]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Having eaten oranges to our hearts’ content, we continued our +walk to the Wesleyan Mission, and on our way thither met the +Rev. —— Fox on his way to the ship, to see if we had a doctor +on board. The latter having already gone ashore, we returned +together to the house—a quiet pleasant home, but for the present +saddened by the serious illness of the young wife, who, a few +weeks ago, gave birth to her first child. As Vavau can furnish +neither nurse nor doctor, the wife of the missionary in Happai had, +at great personal inconvenience, come thence in an open canoe to +officiate on the occasion. She had, however, been compelled to +return soon afterwards to her own nurslings, leaving the young +mother and her baby in charge of native women. A very slow +recovery, accompanied with some unfavourable symptoms, had produced +such depression and alarm, that just before our arrival, the +poor husband had actually been making arrangements for his wife’s +return to Sydney for proper medical care. But, to get there, involved, +in the first instance, a journey of about 200 miles in an +open canoe to reach Tonga, whence she would have to proceed +alone, in a wretched little sailing vessel, on a voyage of upwards of +2000 miles (as the crow flies)—a serious undertaking for a woman +in robust health, but a terrible prospect for an invalid with a young +baby.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Happily the timely arrival of the Seignelay dispelled this nightmare. +M. Thoulon, the good kind doctor (himself <i>père de famille</i>), +at once vetoed the rash arrangement, and his well-applied wisdom, +and kind encouraging words, have already restored heart to the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>dispirited young wife; while a congenial talk with M. Pinart on +the subject of Polynesian dialects and races, has helped to cheer +the husband, who, later, took us to see his schools, pleasantly +situated on a wooded hill, commanding a lovely view of the landlocked +harbour. Then strolling back through the orange-groves, +we returned on board, where I am now writing. The captain and +several of the officers have gone off duck-shooting, and expect good +sport.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Saturday Evening.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Yesterday morning, after a very early breakfast, I went ashore +at 6.30 with M. Pinart and Dr Thoulon. Mr Fox was waiting +at the pier, and returned with us to the mission-house, where we +found the patient already on the mend. I acted the part of interpreter +for the doctor, who was happily able to supply, as well as +prescribe, all needful remedies and tonics. So when we returned +this afternoon to say good-bye, the young mother looked like a +different creature—so bright and happy. Truly a blessed skill is +that of the kindly leech!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The previous evening Mr Fox had undertaken to borrow some +horses, and escort us to the summit of “The Pudding,” a wooded +hill, commanding a splendid map-like view of the strangely intersected +land and water on every side of us. The isles lie so close, +one to the other, that we could scarcely believe we were looking on +the ocean, and not rather on a network of clear calm lakes and +rivers. All the isles appear to be densely wooded, but at intervals +along the shore we could distinguish villages nestling among the +trees. One small island has recently been ceded to the Germans +as a coaling station, and there seems some reason for anxiety lest +this small foothold should be taken further advantage of.</p> +<div class='figcenter id003'> +<img src='images/p0282_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>A CORAL CAVE. VAVAU.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Our ride in the early morning was exceedingly pleasant. I had +insured my own comfort by bringing my side-saddle ashore. By +some mistake we found that the stirrup had been left in Fiji; but +happily, on such a ship as this, to want a thing is to have it, and I +hear that a new stirrup and strap are to be ready for me ere we +reach Samoa. On the summit of the hill we found breakfast all +<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>ready, a party of natives from the mission having made an early +start with tea, yams, ham and eggs—all of which had been cooked +gipsy-fashion. To this foundation we added the contents of a +hamper, which the thoughtful captain had directed his <i>maître +d’hôtel</i> to send with us. So we had a royal feast, and then I +settled down to do a bird’s-eye sketch of the strange world outspread +below, while gentle and rather pretty brown girls, with +sienna hair, sat by, peeling oranges by the dozen, with which they +fed us all incessantly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is the part of true hospitality to peel oranges for a guest, as +their thick green skins contain so much essential oil, that the mere +act of removing them makes the hands very oily and uncomfortable. +Woe betide the rash and thirsty stranger who puts the green fruit +to his lips to suck it, as he might a golden orange in Europe. For +many hours the burning pain of almost blistered lips will remind +him of his folly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Returning to the village, we found a large ten-oared boat waiting +for us, the captain having most kindly placed it at our disposal, to +enable us to explore the coast. Mr Fox guided us to a truly +exquisite cave, about five miles distant. Never before, in all my +wanderings, had my eyes been gladdened by such an ideal fairy +grot. We rowed along the face of beautiful crags, which we had +passed on the previous day without a suspicion of the wonderful +hiding-place within them. Suddenly we steered right into a narrow +opening, and found ourselves in a great vaulted cavern like a grand +cathedral—a coral cave, with huge white stalactites hanging in +clusters from the roof, and forming a perfect gallery along one side, +from which we could almost fancy that white-veiled nuns were +looking down on us.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The great outer cave is paved with lapis-lazuli, at least with +water of the purest ultra-marine, which was reflected in rippling +shimmers of blue and green on the white marble roof. For the +sun was lowering, and shone in glory through the western archway, +lighting up the mysterious depths of a great inner cavern, +which otherwise receives but one ray of light from a small opening +far overhead, through which we saw blue sky and green leaves. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>No scene-painter could have devised so romantic a picture for any +fairy pantomime. The French sailors were ecstatic in their delight. +They collected piles of old cocoa-nut fibre and dry palm-leaves and +kindled bright blazing fires, whose ruddy light glowed on the dark +crevices, which even the setting sun could not reach, and blended +with the blue and green reflected lights, and both played on the +white coral walls, and the white boat, and white figures—(for of +course, in the tropics, the sailors all wear their white suits). Soon +these active lads contrived to reach the gallery, and glided behind +the stalactite pillars, making the illusion of the nuns’ gallery still +more perfect. Altogether it was a scene of dream-like loveliness.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All this coast is cavernous, and most tempting to explore. +Very near my fairy cave lies the one described by Byron, in “The +Island,” which can only be reached by diving—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in20'>“A spacious cave</div> + <div class='line'>Whose only portal is the keyless wave</div> + <div class='line'>(A hollow archway by the sun unseen</div> + <div class='line'>Save through the billow’s glassy veil of green).”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c019'>A huge rock, about 60 feet high, rises from the sea, with nothing +to indicate that it is hollow; but at a considerable depth beneath +low-water mark, there is an opening in the rock through which +expert divers can enter, and find themselves in a cave about 40 +feet wide and 40 in height—the roof forming rude Gothic arches +of very rich and varied colour, and the whole incrusted with +stalactites. The clear green water forms the crystal pavement, but +two lesser caves, branching off on either side, afford a dry resting-place +to such as here seek a temporary refuge. The place is quite +unique in its surpassing loveliness; and the brilliant phosphoric +lights which gleam with every movement of the water, and which +are reflected in pale tremulous rays, that seem to trickle from the +stalactites and lose themselves among the high arches, give to the +whole a weird ghostly effect, quite realising all one’s fancies of a +spirit-world.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This home of the mermaids was first discovered by a young +Tongan, who was diving in pursuit of a wounded turtle. Filled +<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>with wonder and delight, he lingered a few moments in admiration, +then, recollecting how valuable such a hiding-place might prove in +days of ceaseless intertribal war, he determined to keep his own +counsel. So when he returned to the surface he held his peace, +and all his companions were filled with wonder and admiration at +the length of time he could remain under water.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Not very long after this, his family incurred the anger of the +great chief of Vavau, and one and all were disgraced, and in +continual danger of their lives. But the chief had a beautiful +daughter, who loved this bold young islesman, and though under +any circumstances he was of too lowly birth to dare to claim her +openly in marriage, he persuaded her to forsake her father’s house +and come to that which he had prepared for her in the romantic +grotto.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here she remained hidden for several months, only venturing to +swim to the upper world in the starlight, and ever on the alert to +dive to her hiding-place on the slightest alarm. Of course her +simple bathing-dress of cocoa-nut oil and garlands did not suffer +much from salt water; or if it did, trails of sea-weed quickly supplied +fresh clothing. Her love brought constant supplies of fruit, +to add to the fish which she herself provided: and so the happy +weeks flew by, till at last the companions of the young man began +to wonder why he left them so often, to go away all by himself, +and especially they marvelled that he invariably returned with wet +hair—(for the Tongans have the same aversion as the Fijians to +wetting their hair, and rarely do so without good cause). So at +length they tracked him, and saw that when his canoe reached the +spot where he had stayed so long under water in pursuit of the +turtle, he again plunged into the green depths, and there remained. +They waited till he had returned to the land, suspecting no danger. +Then they dived beside the great rock-mass, which seemed so solid, +though it was but the crust of a huge bubble—and soon they too +discovered the opening, through which they swam, and rising to the +surface beheld the beautiful daughter of the chief, who had been +mourned as one dead. So they carried her back to her indignant +father—but what became of her hapless lover history does not +<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>record. Doubtless he was offered in sacrifice to the gods of +Vavau.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We peered down through the crystal waters to see whether we +could discern the entrance to the lover’s cave, but failed to do so. +Except at very low tide, it is difficult for average swimmers to dive +so low. We only heard of two Englishmen who had succeeded. +One was the early traveller, Mariner, who was present at a <i>kava</i>-drinking +party of the chiefs in this cool grot; the other was the +captain of an English man-of-war, who, in passing through the low +rock archway, injured his back so seriously, that the people of +Vavau believed him to have died in consequence.<a id='r5'></a><a href='#f5' class='c017'><sup>[5]</sup></a> It appears +that the passage into the cave bristles with sharp projecting points, +and it is exceedingly difficult to avoid striking against them. A +native having dived to the entrance then turns on his back, and +uses his hands as buffers to keep himself off the rocky roof.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Our row back to Neiafu was most lovely—sea, isles, and sky, +vegetation and cliffs, all glorified in the light of the setting sun. +As we were returning to shore, to land Mr Fox, Captain Aube +hailed us, and bade us invite him to dinner with him. I thought +this very courteous, as of course, on such an essentially Roman +Catholic mission as this, there is just a little natural feeling that it +may not be discreet to show too much honour to the Protestant +minister, who, however, met with a most cordial reception, and we +had a very pleasant evening.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning I was invited to accompany a party who started at +daybreak to shoot wild duck on a pretty lake at some distance; but +as I had the option of returning to the grotto, I chose the latter. +So the captain again lent me the ten-oared boat, and we made another +pleasant party to the beautiful cave: but it lost much of its beauty +by being seen in the cold shadow of early morning, instead of being +illumined by the level rays of the evening sun. We repeated the +palm-leaf bonfires, but felt that we were not exhibiting our discovery +to the best advantage. However, I got a sketch, which has +the one merit of being totally unlike anything else I ever attempted.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We returned too late for breakfast in the captain’s cabin, so had +<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>a cheery little party in the ward-room, then went ashore to say +good-bye to our friends, and carry away last impressions of the +fragrant orange-groves of Vavau. Then the bishop and the Fathers +returned on board, and we sailed away from the Friendly Isles.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER IV.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE ON BOARD SHIP—THE WALLIS ISLES—FOTUNA—SUNDAY ISLE—CYCLOPEAN REMAINS ON EASTER ISLE—STONE ADZES—SAMOA—PANGO-PANGO HARBOUR.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>From my Sofa in the Gun-carriage,</span></div> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>on Board the Seignelay</span>, <i>Sunday, 16th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>My dear Nell</span>,—I have asked Lady Gordon to send you a long +letter to her, which I hope to post at Apia, so that I need not +repeat what I have already written. We are having a most +delightful cruise, with everything in our favour, and the kindness +of every one on board is not to be told.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To begin with, Monseigneur Elloi, Evêque de Tipara, is a host +in himself, so genial and pleasant, and so devoted to his brown +flock. He is terribly unhappy about all the fighting in Samoa; +and I think the incessant wear and tear of mind and body he has +undergone, in going from isle to isle, perpetually striving for peace, +has greatly tended to break down his own health, for he is now +very far from well, and every day that we touch land, and he has +to officiate at a long church service, he is utterly exhausted. It is +high time he returned to France, as he hopes to do, at the end of +this cruise.</p> + +<p class='c008'>His title puzzled us much when he arrived in Fiji, as we supposed +him to be Bishop of Samoa. But it seems that a Roman +Catholic bishop cannot bear the title of a country supposed to be +semi-heathen, so they adopt that of one of the ancient African +churches, which are now virtually extinct.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-day, being Sunday, the bishop called together as many of the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>sailors as wished to attend, and held “a conference”—which meant +that he sat on deck, and they sat or stood all round, quite at their +ease, no officers being present, while he gave them a very nice winning +little talk, ending with a few words of prayer. There was +no regular service. There is always a tiny form of morning and +evening prayer, said on parade by one of the youngest sailors, +which is very nice theoretically, but is practically <i>nil</i>. At the +word of command, Prière, a young lad, rapidly repeats the <i>Ave +Maria</i> and <i>Nôtre Père qui êtes aux cieux</i>; he gabbles it over at +railroad speed in less than a minute; then, as an amen, comes the +next thing, <i>Punitions</i>, followed by a list of the various little trespasses +of the day, and the penalties awarded.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At each point where the vessel has touched, she has taken or +left some of the French priests, many of whom have been working +in these isles for so many years, that they know every detail concerning +them, and are consequently very pleasant companions. +One of my especial friends is a dear old Père Padel, a cheery +Bréton, who has been working in the Wallis group for many years, +with the happy result of seeing its savages converted to most +devout Catholics. He is now going to Samoa.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Much of the charm of this voyage is due to the kindly, pleasant +relations existing between the captain and all his officers, from the +least to the greatest—all are so perfectly at ease, while so thoroughly +respectful. They are all counting the hours for their return to +<i>la belle France</i>, where several have left wife and family; and their +two years’ absence apparently seems longer to them than the four +years of our English ships would seem to be to less demonstrative +Britons.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nothing astonishes me more than the freedom of religious discussion +on every side. Of course to the bishop and the numerous +<i>pères</i>, personally, every one is most friendly and respectful, as well +they may be; but as a matter of individual faith, <i>c’est toute autre +chose</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The evening tea-parties in the captain’s cabin are particularly +pleasant. Very often the conversation turns on some literary +question, and then, from the ample library, are produced books +<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>from which M. le Commandant reads illustrations of prose or +poetry. He is himself literary, and writes very well, in the +‘<span lang="fr">Revue des deux Mondes</span>’ and other papers. Monseigneur Elloi +says that Captain Aube is a very distinguished man in the French +navy, and one who is certain of rapid promotion.</p> + +<p class='c008'>He has another guest on board, M. Pinart, a scientific traveller. +He belongs to a French Protestant family, but is such a thorough +cosmopolite, that when we go about together in the native villages, +and the people ask our nationalities, I always answer for him +“American.” He is most industrious in his various lines of work, +and is at present busy copying out vocabularies of all manner of +dialects. He is greatly interested in all ethnological questions, +and has a collection of skulls, enough to supply a resurrection +army. I do not think the sailors like it very much, and they are +always afraid that some trouble will arise with the natives of +various isles on the vexed subject of <i>les cranes</i>, which our <i>savant</i> +scents out from old hiding-places in caves and clefts of the mountains, +with all the instinct of a schoolboy hunting for bird’s nests. +He has just shown me some beautiful illustrations in colours, for +the book he is bringing out on American Indians; also many +good photographs, done by himself, of objects of interest in many +lands.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I am so sorry that the Seignelay paid her visits to Fotuna (in +the Southern New Hebrides), and to the Wallis Isles, on the +way to Fiji. If only these had been reserved for the return +journey, I should have had the rare luck of seeing them also. +My kind friends are for ever regretting this, and give me tantalising +descriptions of both isles and people.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Apparently <i>les isles Wallis</i>, or Uvea, must be the true earthly +paradise—so green, so fertile, with people so industrious, so contented, +and so hospitable. It is a group of four or five high volcanic +isles, all richly wooded, and protected from the ocean, not +only by the great barrier-reef, but by an intricate labyrinth of +lesser belts and patches, which make navigation a matter of extreme +danger, even after the difficult entrance, by a very narrow +passage, has been accomplished. The approach to the anchorage +<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>is by a network of such dangerous channels, as involve masterly +steering for even small craft, and make it a matter of wonder that +large vessels should attempt it. Indeed a French steamer, L’Hermite, +was wrecked there not long ago, owing to one moment’s +hesitation on the part of her commander, who, meeting a strong +tide running out, shifted the helm at a critical moment, and so the +vessel was swept on to the reef—a helpless plaything for the overwhelming +surf.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Wallis Isles lie due north of Tonga, and are the headquarters +of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Oceania, and a strong +clerical staff; also of a French sisterhood, who devote themselves +to teaching children whose lives have been spared by their own +once cannibal parents, and who now worship with them, in a handsome +stone church, built by themselves, under the direction of the +Fathers, and are in every respect pattern Catholics.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Three days’ sail from Wallis lies Fotuna, which is a little world +by itself. It consists of a single peak, rising abruptly from the +waters, and broken up into towering masses of crag and pinnacles, +seamed by deep ravines, opening up into fertile valleys, richly +cultivated. Sparkling streams afford an abundant water-supply +for the irrigation of the <i>taro</i> beds; bread-fruit, bananas, and +palms grow luxuriantly: so it is an isle of great natural beauty, +and though only fifteen miles in circumference, affords ample provision +for its 900 inhabitants. They seem to be a happy, healthy +community, and have all adopted Christianity, either in its Protestant +or Roman form. The representative of the latter is a fine old +priest, who has devoted the greater part of his life to work on +Fotuna, and year by year adds a few inches to the walls of a very +large cathedral, which he hopes some future generation will complete. +The natives show their love for the good <i>padre</i> by bringing +him the heavy blocks of coral-rock, which he hews at his +leisure; but they are well content to worship in less solid buildings. +The majority wear, as their badge, a little brass medal of +the Virgin, or some other Christian amulet, which, in the case of +the little children, is often their only raiment!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Apparently the adherents of the two great Christian bodies contrive +<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>to live in peace, instead of finding in differing faith a new +occasion for enmities, as has been the case even in Polynesian isles. +But is it not grievous that, when at length “the people who sat in +darkness have seen a great light,” it should not shine upon them in +one undivided ray?</p> + +<p class='c008'>The people of this lonely isle are especially interesting, because +they, and the inhabitants of Aniwa—a much smaller isle in the same +region—are of a totally different race from those on the other isles +composing the New Hebrides—the latter being Papuans, and these +Malays, whose ancestors drifted all the way from Tonga in a canoe. +Though their colour has darkened, they retain the dialect and the +hair of their race.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Every one on board has treasures of some sort from Fotuna—especially +very beautifully painted native cloth. I think some +of the patterns are almost more artistic than those of the Fijians. +Like theirs, these are principally geometrical; and in addition to +the black and red dyes which are there used, the artists of Fotuna +introduce a good deal of yellow. The printing is done in the same +manner, the raised pattern being carefully designed with strips of +cocoa-rib or bamboo on wooden blocks, on which the colour is +stamped. It is the same principle as that of our printing-types, +and was known in Polynesia long before the art of printing was +invented in Europe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The most remarkable productions of Fotuna and some of its +neighbouring isles are gigantic cocoa-nuts, more than double the +ordinary size. They are immensely prized as drinking-cups. Many +are 18 inches in circumference after the husk has been removed. +The largest grow on the isle of Niufau, which is described as being +merely the rim of a great crater, from which smoke sometimes +rises, and which is incrusted with sulphur. Apparently the +warmth of the soil agrees with all vegetation; for the isle is exceedingly +fertile, and the cocoa-nuts are the wonder and envy of all +beholders.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I confess I should not care to live on one of these smouldering +volcanoes. There are a good many such, scattered about the +Pacific—and occasionally one subsides altogether. For instance, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>halfway between Tonga and New Zealand lies Sunday Isle. It is +a volcanic rock-mass 1600 feet in height, and about four miles in +diameter. It is exceedingly fertile, but steam rises from all the +crevices of the rocks, and the people have only to scrape a hole in +the ground, and therein place their food that it may be baked in +nature’s own oven. At one time there were a good many settlers +in this warm corner, but in an evil day a Peruvian slave-ship +touched here, and landed 200 poor creatures, captured in all parts +of the Pacific. Typhoid fever had broken out among them; so +they were thrown ashore to die, which they did, and most of the +settlers shared their fate. The others left the island on the first +opportunity, leaving only one white man with a Samoan wife and +a dusky brood. These lived on in peace and plenty for about +ten years, when suddenly the little fresh-water lake began to boil +furiously, and from its midst a fountain of fire shot high in the air. +Happily this mighty rocket served as a signal of distress, for a passing +vessel descried the fiery column and came to investigate, greatly +to the relief of the Crusoe family, who were taken on board, and +for ever abandoned their home.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Evidently this isle must lie on the same volcanic chain as the +White Sulphur Isle, which is a sulphur volcano to the north of +New Zealand, connected subterraneously with that great tract in +the province of Auckland, where geysers, solfataras, and all manner +of volcanic phenomena abound.<a id='r6'></a><a href='#f6' class='c017'><sup>[6]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>All these are reproduced on a smaller scale on the island of +Tanna in the New Hebrides, within 30 miles of Fotuna. It is a +circular island, about 40 miles in diameter. Near the harbour +rises a volcanic mountain about 500 feet in height, densely wooded +to the very summit, though seamed with fissures from which rise +clouds of steam and sulphureous vapours. The whole island is +exceedingly fertile—cocoa-palms, bread-fruit trees, bananas, sugar-cane, +&c., grow luxuriantly, and the yams occasionally attain a +weight of 50 lb.; one root being from 40 to 50 inches long—a +very neat thing in potatoes. Yet the soil which produces this +rank vegetation forms so thin a crust over the vast furnace below, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>that in some places the penetrating heat is painful to the naked +foot. Nevertheless, the people have no fear of accidents; on the +contrary, wherever they find a group of hot springs they build their +huts, and, like the New Zealanders, they love to lounge on the +steaming grass or hot stones. In every village a circular space is +set apart as the <i>marum</i>, or place for holding council or feasting, +and in these districts a warm spot is selected, where, after sundown, +the men may combine the pleasures of a vapour-bath with +the enjoyment of their bowl of <i>kava</i>, while discussing the affairs of +the tribe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The springs are in great favour as baths. They are of all temperatures—from +the tepid water in which the natives play luxuriously +for hours, to the boiling springs in which they place their +food and leave it to cook itself. Some of these natural boilers lie +so close to the shore, that the fishers who haunt the reefs, armed +with long four-pronged spears, have only to throw their prize into +the rock-caldron the moment they have secured it. No fear of +tainted fish for them! Nor need they search far for drinking +water. Probably the nearest spring is quite cold and excellent. +Some of the springs are highly medicated, and many resort to the +healing waters, some of which are especially efficacious for the cure +of ulcerous sores.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Beyond the strangely fertile crust, covering the region of horror, +lies an unveiled tract of cinders and black volcanic ash, forming +a wide barren valley from which rises the principal cone. This +valley is intersected by a multitude of fissures from which issue +scalding sulphureous fumes. Here and there beds of the purest +sulphur have been deposited, and trading vessels occasionally carry +hence a cargo of this pale primrose-coloured mineral, to be turned +to good domestic uses. Pools of boiling mud alternate with springs +of cold water clear as crystal; and in fissures lying but a few feet +apart the same strange diversity exists. One sends forth a blast of +scalding steam, while in the next a dripping spring yields its slow +but continuous supply of ice-cold water, falling drop by drop.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The cone, which is called Asoor by the Tannese, is about 300 +feet in height. It is a gradual ascent, but fatiguing, owing to the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>accumulation of fine black ash or sand, in which the foot sinks at +every step. Masses of scoria and vitreous lava, or obsidian, have +been thrown up by the volcano, and lie scattered on every side.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On reaching the summit, you find yourself on the brink of a +crater half a mile in diameter, within which lie five secondary +craters. These act as so many chimneys for the great furnace, +which roars and bellows below, and which day and night, with +deafening roar, unweariedly throws up its fiery blast at intervals of +five, seven, or ten minutes, according as its action is more or less +vehement. Some travellers have visited it repeatedly at intervals +of several years, and their accounts of the intervals of eruption +never vary beyond this slight difference. Huge masses of black +rock or liquid fire are tossed in the air, to a height of 200 or 300 +feet, often falling back within the crater, or else hurled to the +valley below. Clouds of white steam mingle with denser clouds of +the finest dark-grey dust, which is carried by the wind to all parts +of the island, coating every green leaf with a powder like fine +steel-filings, which fills the eyes and nostrils of all breathing creatures +in a most unpleasant manner. When rain falls, it absorbs +this dust, and becomes literally a mud-shower.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From the position of the inner craters, it is obvious that even +the most foolhardy scientific traveller could hardly venture to approach +them to peer into the mysterious workings of that mighty +caldron. Yet a native legend records, that in one of the fierce +battles between the tribes of Tanna, one party was gradually +driven backward, till they retreated to the summit of the cone, and +even there they still fought on, contesting foot by foot of the +sandy ridges of the inner crater, where a multitude of these savage +warriors perished, having fought to the death, unheeding the wrath +of the fire-gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But of the isles visited by the Seignelay, before I had the +privilege of joining the party, there is none which I regret so much +as Easter Island, or, as the inhabitants call it, Rapa Nui, where +they touched on the way from Valparaiso, from which it is distant +about 2500 miles, without any intermediate isle. I think it must +be the loneliest spot in the Pacific, as there are apparently only two +<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>little isles anywhere within a radius of 1000 miles. It is a volcanic +island, about 11 miles long by 4 wide. It is covered with +extinct craters, in some of which are deep pools of water. The +highest point is about 1000 feet above the sea-level. The hills are +covered with hybiscus and other scrub. It is inhabited by a +race of very fair natives, like the Tahitians, and very elaborately +tattooed.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the isle owes its interest to its mysterious relics of a forgotten +race, who have utterly and completely died out, even from +legendary lore; while their handiwork abides, written on the rocks, +which are so covered with carving as to resemble the studio +of some giant sculptor. Colossal stone images lie half buried +beneath the creeping grass and encroaching scrub. At intervals +all round the coast there are cyclopean platforms, from 200 to 300 +feet in length, and about 30 feet high, all built of hewn stones 5 +or 6 feet long, and accurately fitted, without cement. And above +these, on the headlands, are artificially levelled platforms, paved +with square blocks of black lava. On all these, stone pedestals +remain, whereon were placed the great images, which, by some +powerful force, have mostly been thrown to the ground and +broken.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The average height of the figures is about 18 feet; some of those +lying prostrate are 27 feet long, and measure 8 feet across the +breast. You can infer the size of some of the upright ones from +the fact that, so near noon as 2 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span>, they cast sufficient shadow to +cover a party of thirty persons. Some have been found which +measure 37 feet. They are all hewn of a close-grained grey lava, +which is only found at Otouli, a crater on the east side of the +island. On a platform near this quarry several gigantic images +stand in perfect preservation. One of these measures 20 feet from +the shoulder to the crown of the head.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They represent an unknown type. Very square face—short, +thin upper lip, giving a somewhat scornful expression—broad nose +and ears, with pendent lobes. All the faces look upward. The +eyes are deeply sunken, and are supposed to have originally had +eyeballs of obsidian.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>All the principal images have the top of the head cut flat and +crowned with a cylindrical mass of red lava, hewn perfectly round. +Some of these crowns are 66 inches in diameter and 52 in height. +The only place on the island where this red lava is found, is the +crater of Terano Hau, which is fully eight miles from Otouli; and +how these ponderous crowns were conveyed to their position on the +heads of the grey rock-kings, is one of the mysteries of the isle. +About thirty of them still lie in the quarry where they were hewn, +ready for the heads which they were never destined to adorn. +Some of these are 30 feet in circumference.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Well may we marvel by what means those unknown sculptors +transported their ponderous works of art from one distant point to +another on this lonely volcanic isle. The statues are literally lying +about in hundreds, and the very rocks on the sea-beach are carved +into strange forms—tortoises or human faces.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Besides these, all along the coast, there are cairns of small stones, +and on the top of each pile are laid a few white pebbles. These +have probably been burial-cairns.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Unless the face of the island has undergone some wondrous +change, those mysterious workmen cannot even have possessed +wooden rollers to aid them in the toil of transport, for there are +literally no trees—nothing but small scrub. When Captain Cook +discovered the isle, he only saw three or four little canoes, which +were built of many small pieces of wood, sewed together with fibre, +the largest piece being 6 feet long and 14 inches wide at one end, +8 inches at the other; and this, he thought, was probably driftwood. +These canoes were from 18 to 20 feet long, and could +barely hold four people. He found that the most acceptable gift +he could bestow on the people was cocoa-nut shells, to be used as +cups, since the island produced no palms, and but few gourds. +Their only drink is brackish water, obtained by digging wells on +the stony beach, through which the salt water filters.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Wooden tablets, covered with hieroglyphics, have been found, +which might perhaps reveal something of the old history of the +race, but as yet no one has been able to decipher them. There +are also stone slabs, covered with geometric figures, curious birds, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>animals, and faces, painted in black, white, and red—doubtless +these also are hieroglyphs. They are ranged inside the quaint +stone houses, of which about a hundred remain, at one end of the +isle; and are built in lines, with the doors towards the sea. The +inside measurement of these houses is about 40 feet by 13, and +the walls are upwards of 5 feet thick; they are built of flat stones +laid in layers. At about 6 feet from the ground, the slabs are so +laid as to overlap one another, till they gradually close; and the +small opening at the top is roofed with long thin slabs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Till a Rawlinson arises to read the hieroglyphs of Rapa Nui, its +mysteries must remain unsolved; and the cold proud faces, with +the sightless eyeballs, will continue to gaze heavenward, and the +great stone images, whether gods or heroes, must lie in fallen +grandeur in this their sea-girt shrine, with none to tell us what +unknown race devoted the labour of their lives to sculpturing the +rocks on this lonely isle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Unfortunately the Seignelay has no artist among her officers, so +no one has any sketches which can give me any general idea of +the isle, and though I have seen a few photographs of individual +figures, I cannot from them obtain any impression of the whole +effect. I confess I wish I had had the chance of doing a few +panoramic and bird’s-eye views of the whole scene. Though perhaps +not artistic, I am quite convinced that by no other means can +a traveller so fully enable friends at home to realise the scenes on +which his own eyes have feasted.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The only other corner of the earth, in which I can hear of anything +akin to these mysterious rock-sculptures, is the far-distant +volcanic isle of Java. If you sail almost halfway round the world, +heading straight for the west, you come to that wonderful isle, +with its terrible volcanoes and amazing wealth of vegetation. Nowhere +else are there so many distinct volcanoes in so small a space. +No less than thirty-eight separate cones cluster round the great +central range of mountains, from 5000 to 13,000 feet in height. +Some are active fire-craters, and throw out molten lava; others are +water-craters, containing milk-white lakes or sulphureous geysers: +in short, volcanic action is there in every form of sublime terror, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>and the Javanese aborigines erected temples to appease the fire-giants, +and from the solid rocks sculptured prodigious statues in +their honour. In one spot 400 ruined shrines have been discovered, +with altars, and images—all apparently built to propitiate +the fire-gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is very risky to draw inferences from mere descriptions of +any sort of art, but so far as I can make out, these would appear +to be the productions of the true aborigines, ere Hindu influence +prevailed, leaving its mark in those marvellous Buddhist ruins at +Borrobudua and Samarang, which we so unfortunately did not see, +on our way from Singapore to Fiji.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is, of course, possible that the platforms and sculptures of +Easter Isle may simply have been an extraordinary development +of the <i>marai</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the tomb-temple, which was the accepted form +of ecclesiastical building throughout the south-east Pacific. They +varied considerably in form, some being great pyramids erected on +a stone platform; while on other isles (as, for instance, on Huahine, +in the Society Isles) there are stone terraces, built irregularly, +right up the face of the hill, with spaces left between them. On +one of the principal platforms a row of tall monoliths stand upright, +just as did the images on the Easter Island terraces. On +Huahine these are called “the stones of dividing,” and are said to +have been set up as memorials of the division of land among the +various tribes, each stone representing the title-deeds of a clan. +To this day each tribe recognises its own stone, and, beholding it, +recollects its unwritten legend,—just as at the present day in Fiji +a messenger who is charged with a dozen different errands, will +carry in his hand a dozen small sticks or leaves, and in fancy +makes each stick represent a message. From this imaginary notebook +he will read off each detail with unerring accuracy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Whatever faint resemblance may suggest itself between the +irregular terraces and monoliths of Huahine, and the equally +irregular terraces and statues of Easter Isle, it is hardly conceivable +that such vast energy could have been expended on a mere +memorial of tribal divisions, especially where there was so little +land to divide. Perhaps Easter Isle was a sort of Iona—the Holy +<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>Isle of the old Druids, who there erected the 360 great monoliths, +which the followers of St Columba sanctified by carving them +into the form of crosses, but which in later years were cast into +the sea by order of a ruthless Protestant Synod, who declared +them to be “monuments of idolatrie.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>The only traces of any forgotten race which I have had the good +luck to see on the present cruise, have been the cyclopean tombs +of the old kings of Tonga, and a huge trilithon, concerning which +the present islanders know as little as we do of Stonehenge.</p> + +<p class='c008'>While in Tonga I endeavoured to procure some stone adzes, but +could only buy three very coarse ones without handles. They +have long been in disuse there. M. Pinart, however, succeeded +in getting some better specimens, which were carefully stowed away +by some of the old people in the recesses of their homes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>What miraculous patience it must have required, first to make +these stone implements, and then to work with them! They +were generally made from basaltic stones, which were dug out of +the earth with strong sticks, and then roughly chipped into shape +with a heavy flint. Perhaps after many hours of severe labour +the stone would break in two, and the workman had to select +another and begin again. This time he might progress swimmingly, +and spend perhaps whole days in carefully chipping, till +the rough stone began to take shape. Then he would substitute +a lighter flint, and work with still greater care, only chipping off +the first fragments,—and after all his labour, perhaps one sharp +tap would prove fatal, and the carefully chiselled axe would split +in two, revealing an unsuspected flaw in the centre. So the work +must all be begun again, and the patient, persevering savage go on +with his chipping till he succeeded in producing a perfect axe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then came the slow process of smoothing it by such delicate +strokes as only removed a fine white dust, and last of all came +laborious polishing with rough coral and water and fine sand, till +the axe at length became a serviceable tool, ready to be bound +with strongly plaited fibre to the bent wooden handle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After this it had to be periodically ground by rubbing it on a +very hard rock. We saw several rocks in Fiji scored with deep +<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>grooves from having constantly been used for this purpose; and +of course they must exist in all countries in which stone celts +have been in use, which, I suppose, means all corners of the round +world, Britain included. I greatly doubt, however, whether the +ancient Britons ever produced such artistic carved bowls and +spears with their stone implements as these Pacific Islanders have +done.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The men who worked with these tools needed wellnigh as much +patience as those who manufactured them. Imagine a squad of +men taking from fifteen to thirty days to fell a tree! Saith the +old proverb, “Little strokes fell great oaks,” and these were little +strokes indeed! Of course a more rapid process was to make a +slow fire all round the base of the tree, and so burn it down; but +the fire so often ran up the heart of the tree, destroying it altogether, +that the slower process proved best in the long-run. However, +as a good-sized tree could thus be felled in three or four +days, the rafters of houses were often thus prepared, and the +branches burnt off. Once down, fire could be better used to +divide the tree into useful lengths; and if a canoe were required, +a long narrow line of fire was allowed to burn the whole length, +its progress being regulated by the slow dripping of water. Thus +the work left for the stone axe was considerably lessened, though +it would still have puzzled a British carpenter to work with such +tools.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Tuesday, 18th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We are enjoying the most perfect weather—a calm sea and a +faint sweet breeze. The vessel glides on her way so smoothly +that we scarcely perceive any motion, and all yesterday I was able +to work up my sketch of the grotto, sitting in a delightful improvised +studio on the tiny bridge (<i>la passerelle</i>). We are not making +much way, as we are sailing to economise fuel; but the days +pass pleasantly, and there is always some ship-life going on, which +to me has all the interest of novelty—either parade, or fire-stations, +or fighting-stations, or cannon practice (mercifully done +in dumb show!)</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>We are passing through a great shoal of jelly-fish—I suppose I +ought to say medusæ—filmy, transparent creatures of very varied +form. Some are like mushrooms, some like great bells, with delicately +marked patterns of pale green or pink, and long fringe of +feelers. They are beautiful by day, and at night gleam like balls +of white fire. They are here in myriads, and are of all sizes, from +a teacup to a cart-wheel. There are also a great number of flying-fish +skimming on the surface of the glassy sea.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I am told that we are now 630 miles from Levuka in a direct +line; but our <i>détour</i> in the Friendly Isles has made our voyage +thence amount to about 1100 miles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We have just sighted Mount Matafae, the highest point in the +isle Tutuila. It is a conical mountain 2300 feet high, and lies +just above Pango-Pango, the most perfect landlocked harbour in +all the Samoan group, with water six or eight fathoms deep close +in shore, and surrounded by luxuriantly wooded hills. At present +we are steering straight for Leone, where the bishop has work +awaiting him. The place had an evil name in old days, as that +where M. de Langle, who accompanied La Pérouse on his expedition +in 1787, was barbarously murdered, with eleven men of his +boat’s crew,—hence the name of “Massacre Bay,” and the character +of treacherous and bloodthirsty savages which for so many +years clung to the people, till Messrs Williams and Barff arrived +here in 1830 with their trained Tahitian teachers, and made +friends with them. Then they learnt the native version of the +fray, and heard the invariable story of innocence suffering for +guilt,—namely, that a poor fellow who had gone off to the ship to +trade had been detected in some trifling act of pilfering, when he +was immediately shot and carried ashore mortally wounded. Of +course his friends determined to avenge his death, and so assembled +on the beach, armed with stones and clubs, ready to attack the +invaders the moment they attempted to land. They were only +carrying out the example given to them, and combined revenge for +evil done, with prevention of further assault.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span><span class='sc'>Pango-Pango Harbour</span>, <i>Tuesday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>After all, we did come here, for the anchorage at Leone is simply +an open roadstead, and is not safe in a strong southerly gale. Captain +Aube feared the wind might shift, so the vessel merely lay to, +to allow a young priest, Père Vidal, to leap on board from his +canoe, and then we ran right to this lovely spot, where we anchored +at sunset.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is indeed a perfect harbour. We are lying close to the shore, +in water twenty-one fathoms deep, clear as crystal, and calm as any +inland lake. Steep, richly wooded hills rise round us on every +side to a height of about 1000 feet, and you can discern no entrance +from the sea. It seems like living in a vast cup. The hills all +round are covered with bread-fruit trees, oranges, limes, pine-apples, +bananas, and all the usual wealth of tropical greenery.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This has been a calm, peaceful evening of soft moonlight. We +sat on the <i>passerelle</i> while one of the officers, who is an excellent +violinist, played one lovely <i>romance</i> after another, sometimes soaring +to classical music. The others lay round him listening in rapt +delight.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The air is fragrant with the breath of many blossoms, and indeed +all the afternoon we have had delicious whiffs of true “spicy +breezes,” such as I remember vividly off Cape Comorin, but which +I have not very often experienced at any distance from the land.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER V.<br> <span class='c009'>BOAT TRANSIT TO LEONE—SPOUTING CAVES—COUNCIL OF WAR—SKETCH OF SAMOAN HISTORY—NIGHT DANCES.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In the House of the Native Catechist,</span></div> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>Leone</span>, <i>Wednesday, 19th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We have had a long delightful day, and I am tolerably tired; +but before taking to my mat, I must give you some notion of what +we have seen. All the early morning the ship was surrounded by +<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>canoes full of natives, offering clubs, native cloth, and baskets +for sale. Some of the canoes had ornamental prows with carved +birds, &c.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After breakfast I went ashore with M. Pinart to see all we could +of the village. We were invited to enter several houses, which are +much more open and less like homes than those in Tonga or Fiji. +But the people are all in a ferment, for, as usual in poor Samoa, +this is only a lull in the course of incessant tribal war, and the +people of Pango-Pango belong to the Puletoa, who were severely +beaten in a recent battle. They are, however, keen to return to the +fray, and this morning all the warriors assembled in full conclave, +holding a council of war. They arrived in large canoes (some of +their canoes carry upwards of 200 people, but those we saw had not +room for above 50). They are noble-looking men, the fairest race +in Polynesia, and truly dignified in their bearing. Some wore +crowns of green leaves, and many had blossoms of scarlet hybiscus +coquettishly stuck in their hair, which is cut short, dyed with coral-lime, +and frizzled and stiffened with a sort of <i>bandoline</i> made of the +sticky juice of the bread-fruit tree, mixed with scented oil; so that, +instead of being straight and black, it stands round the head in a +stiff halo of tawny yellow, like that of the Fijians and Tongans.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Is it not strange that the same curious rage for converting black +hair into gold should prevail on this side of the world, just as it +has in London in various epochs of fashion’s folly, as when the +attendants of “The Virgin Queen” dyed their raven locks with +a lee of wood-ashes, especially those of “ivy-tree bark,” or a decoction +of the flowers of broom, either of which was warranted to +“cause the hair grow yellow”? Of the various alkaline washes in +use at the present day, and the good champagne converted to a hair-wash, +I need not speak. Besides, these are mysteries which I have +not yet solved.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here there is no deception at all in the process. It is all carried +on in open day, for the simple and cleanly purpose of exterminating +wee beasties. The head, whether male or female, that has just +been whitewashed, presents exactly the appearance of a barrister’s +wig stuck on to a bronze statue. But such work is all done on undress +<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>days; and of course to-day every one was got up in full suits +of mats and foliage, with a good coating of fresh cocoa-nut oil, the +effect of which, on a brown skin, is admirable. The Psalmist knew +what it was, when he spoke of “oil to make him a cheerful countenance.” +The man who neglects it looks dull and lack-lustre; while +he who, having anointed his flaxen locks, has then given his face +and shoulders a good polish, seems altogether radiant.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course we found our way to the House of Debate. The +spokesmen were apparently eloquent orators, very fluent, making +use of much gesticulation and very graceful action. Each carries a +fly-flap, which is his badge of office, and consists of a long bunch +of fine brown fibre, very like a horse’s tail, sometimes plaited into +a multitude of the finest braids, and all attached to a carved handle +about a foot in length. With this, when not engaged in speechifying, +he disperses the flies which presume to annoy his chief. But while +talking, the fly-flap is thrown carelessly over the right shoulder. +Dainty little flaps of the same sort are carried by many persons in +preference to the fibre-fans in common use. I observe, however, +that there are fewer fans here than in Fiji, where you are always +offered one the moment you enter the poorest hut.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I was struck by the rapt attention with which the audience +favoured each successive speaker. The bishop was present, accompanied +by the captain. They wished to remonstrate with the big +chief on the subject of certain persecutions of Catholics, and also +to urge him and his party to submission. They are but a handful +compared with the others, and the strife seems so hopeless, and has +already cost so many good lives; but I fear the good bishop’s +efforts are all in vain. Like the Hebrew peacemaker, he “labours +for peace; but when he speaks unto them thereof, they make them +ready to battle.” And now, in every village and in every house, +all the men are busy rubbing up their old guns, and preparing ammunition, +making cartridges, and so forth.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We returned on board at noon; and after luncheon, the bishop +had to return in a ship’s boat to Leone. He most kindly invited +me to accompany him. We were a full boat-load—Père Soret and +Père Vidal, two chiefs, two other natives, one officer, and twelve +<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>French sailors. The sea was very rough, and we shipped so much +water that two men were told off to bale incessantly. Of course +our things got very wet. On these occasions the bishop is seen in +perfection; he is so cheery and pleasant to every one, sailors and +passengers, and makes the best of everything, though himself suffering +greatly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This sort of boating is very different from travelling on our lovely +Fijian lagoons, within the shelter of the encircling reef. Here the +huge breakers dash madly on the shore, where they spout like +geysers through a thousand perforated rocks, and we had to remain +fully half a mile from land to avoid their rush. Oh for the calm +mirror-like sea-lakes over which we have glided for the last two +years, till I, for one, had wellnigh forgotten what boating in rough +water means! To-day our ten stout rowers could with difficulty +make any way, and our progress was slow.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We saw enough of the island (Tutuila) to agree in the general +praise of its green loveliness. Its high volcanic hills are densely +wooded, and look more tropical than those of Ovalau (Fiji). But +our powers of appreciation were considerably damped by the invading +spray, and we watched the rugged coast, chiefly with a +view to knowing whether there was one spot where a boat could +land in case of need; but in the whole run of twelve miles, there +was not a single place where it would have been possible. Even +here, at this large native town, there is only a narrow break in the +rocks, where landing is tolerably safe in fine weather.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As we drew near we saw a large body of Samoan warriors exercising +on the shore, and hear that the people have assembled from +far and near to take measures for immediately crushing the rebels +at Pango-Pango (our friends of this morning). The chiefs here +belong to the <i>Faipule</i> faction.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The good Fathers invited me to tea at their house, and then +handed me over to the care of Dorothea, the excellent wife of their +catechist, who had prepared the tidy inner room of her house for +my reception. Here I am most cosily established. My hostess, +with about twenty of her scholars, nice-looking girls, have hung up +great screens of <i>tappa</i> to act as mosquito-nets; and under these +<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>they are sleeping peacefully in the outer room. Of course I +brought my own net and pillow, being too old a traveller ever to +risk a night without them; and my bed is a layer of fine mats, +beautifully clean and temptingly cool. To these I must now +betake me, so good-night.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In the Teacher’s House</span>, <i>Thursday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I started in the early morning for a long walk, taking as my +guide a graceful half-caste girl with flowing black hair. She wore +a fine mat round her waist, and a pretty patchwork pinafore, of +the simple form generally adopted here—that is, a fathom of cloth, +with a hole cut out of the centre to admit the head and neck. It +is trimmed with some sort of fringe, either of fibre or grass. Occasionally +two bright-coloured handkerchiefs, stitched together at the +upper corners, supply the simple garment, which, however, is not +an indigenous product of Samoa, but was the <i>tiputa</i> introduced by +the early Tahitian teachers. It is practically the same as a Spanish +<i>poncho</i>. All the shore here is edged with black volcanic rock; the +lava seems to have formed huge bubbles as it cooled, and many +of these have been water-worn till they are connected one with +another by innumerable channels. So the waves rush tumultuously +into these subterranean caves, and thence through hidden +passages, till they reach openings like deep wells which lie at +intervals along the shore, at some distance from the sea. Through +these chimneys the rushing waters spout in great foam-fountains, +and the effect produced is that of intermittent geysers, all along +the coast. I think some of the jets must have been fully 100 +feet high—and how the great breakers do surge and roar! No +peaceful silent shore here!</p> + +<p class='c008'>We passed a very large deserted European house, built by Mr +Scott of the Presbyterian Mission. How so large a house came to +be required, or why it was abandoned, are mysteries of which I +have heard no solution.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I returned to breakfast with the Fathers, to whose house I go +for all meals. Happily the kind forethought of Captain Aube has +<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>provided me with a private teapot and a good supply of tea and +sugar, so that I can have a brew whenever I wish;—a great comfort, +as the ecclesiastical hours are very irregular, the Fathers being +in the habit of luxuriating on dry yam, drier biscuit, and cold +water. The only attempt at cooking is that of a nice half-caste +lad, who is the bishop’s sole attendant, and combines the duties of +chorister, acolyte, episcopal valet, and cook; so his duties in the +latter capacity have to wait on the former.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It seems we have arrived here at a most critical moment. The +majority of the chiefs of Tutuila have assembled here to hold +council of war how most effectually to subdue the rebels. The +majority are in favour of war. A few have not yet arrived. All +to-day they have been sitting in parties all round the <i>malæ</i>—that +is, the village green. At intervals one of the “talking men” stood +up, and, laying his fly-flapper on his bare shoulder, leant on a tall +staff, and, without moving from the spot where he had been +sitting, threw out an oration in short, detached, abrupt sentences. +Having had his say he sat down, and each group apparently made +its own comments quietly. There were long pauses between the +speeches, which made the proceedings rather slow; but we sat by +turns with all the different parties (<i>we</i>, meaning myself, M. de +Kerraoul, and M. Pinart, who had walked across the hills from +Pango-Pango).</p> + +<p class='c008'>After a while, the bishop was invited to speak—a great exertion, +as the audience formed such a very wide circle. He took up his +position beneath the shade of a bread-fruit tree in the centre, and +though his voice was very weak, he was distinctly heard by all—and +his speech seemed impressive. Of course he urged peace, and +he has a good hope that at least the Roman Catholic chiefs will +allow themselves to be guided by him. But the meeting closed +with a bad tendency to war, which was illustrated by various +actions in the manner of bringing in the feast, the way in which +women, wearing trains of <i>tappa</i>, were going about all day, carrying +bowls of <i>kava</i> to the orators, and other symptoms evident to practised +eyes. Many of the men wore beautiful crowns of Pearly +Nautilus shell, which are also symptomatic of warlike intentions.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>The bishop’s words, however, were not without effect. The +council assembled again to-night, and is still sitting, and I hear +that after much talk the chiefs have written a letter to the chief +of Pango-Pango, again inviting him to submit, and so avert war.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Just now I mentioned the bowls of <i>kava</i> with which ministering +damsels refreshed the thirsty speakers. Perhaps I should explain +that it is the identical drink which I so fully described, in writing +to you from Fiji, where it was known as <i>yangona</i>—namely, a dry +root masticated, till there remains only a fine white fibre, as free +as possible from saliva. This is placed in a large wooden bowl, +and water is poured over it. It is then strained through a fine +piece of hybiscus fibre till all the particles of root have been +removed, when there remains only a turbid yellow fluid, tasting +like ginger and soap-suds, which is gently stimulating, like weak +sal-volatile, and has the advantage of rarely resulting in intoxication, +which, in any case, is a very different affair from that produced +by drinking spirits. A man must drink a good deal of this +nasty <i>kava</i> before he can get drunk; and when he does, his head +remains quite clear,—he merely loses the use of his limbs, and has +to appeal to the compassionate bystanders to lift him to a place of +safety. If his companions were white men, they might obligingly +empty his pockets while he looked on helplessly; but South Sea +Islanders would scorn to take so base an advantage of a man in his +cups. On the contrary, they will obligingly bring him some mountain +bananas, nicely roasted in their skins, which are considered +a corrective, and will then leave him to sleep himself sober.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Different groups have trifling differences in their method of preparing +this national beverage, and the ceremonies to be observed. +In Fiji it is considered very incorrect for a woman to touch the +bowl,—chewing, straining, and handing it round in cocoa-nut +shells, should all be done by young men, whose comrades sing +wild melodies during the manufacture, and keep up a peculiar +measured hand-clapping while the chiefs are drinking. Here, in +Samoa, the girls are all Hebes. They do the brewing, and carry +round the cups, but there are no songs (<i>yangona-méké</i>), and the +only hand-clapping is done by the drinker himself as he hands +<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>back the cup. In Fiji, the correct thing is to send the empty cup +skimming across the mat to the great central bowl.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This afternoon a corps of sixty warriors favoured us with a very +odd sort of drill dance. Their dress consisted of kilts of black +calico, trimmed with cut-out white calico, to look like <i>tappa</i>; on +their heads a turban of Turkey red; their mouth and chin +hideously blackened, which on these very fair people produces a +monstrously ugly effect. They all had muskets, and were called +soldiers; but we thought their drill was more funny than warlike, +and concluded that they would be quite as dangerous to their +friends as their foes. They have a sort of American flag, invented +by Colonel Steinberger.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The dance was a very miserable travesty of a true native <i>méké</i>, +such as we have so often seen in the isles further west; but here +the vulgarising influence of white men is painfully evident, and +one of the prominent figures at the chief’s council was a high +chiefess in a huge crinoline, a gorgeous red dress, and a hideously +unbecoming hat, trimmed with scarlet and green ribbon and +feathers:</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us,</div> + <div class='line'>To see oursels as ithers see us!”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c019'>Could that proud woman but have known with what different eyes +we, the great strangers representing all Europe, looked on her fine +foreign clothes, and on the pretty becoming attire of her handmaidens, +with their finely plaited and fringed mats, necklaces of +scarlet berries on their clear olive skin, and bright blossoms in +their hair!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Philosophers tell us there is always good in things evil; and so +far as outward appearance goes, the tendency to war is in favour +of artistic beauty, as these people (like the Samoans and Tongans) +connect the idea of good behaviour with pretty closely cropped +heads; but when the war-spirit revives they become defiant, and +let their hair grow like a lion’s mane, and adorn themselves with +gay wreaths and garlands from the neck and waist. When a man +has allowed his hair to grow long, he twists it up in a knot on the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>top of his head, but it would be considered gross disrespect to appear +thus in presence of a superior or at a religious service. He +must then untie the string and let his hair fall on his shoulders. +Rather odd, is it not, that they should have exactly the same idea +on this subject as a Chinaman, who dares not venture to appear in +presence of a superior with his pigtail twisted round his head?</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-day the great chief’s half-caste secretary asked me most +anxiously when “Arthur Gordon” was coming from Fiji, and +whether it was really certain that he would endeavour to force +the Samoans to reinstate King Malietoa. I ventured to answer +for Sir Arthur having no such intention, which seemed to soothe +the inquirer and all his anxious surroundings. You may remember +that we have twice had Samoan chiefs in Fiji. Once when +they were brought as hostages on board the Barracouta, and once +as a deputation to the British Government, to claim a protectorate +from England. In each case, though the protectorate was refused, +they were most kindly received by Sir Arthur Gordon, and +amongst other attentions, were invited to dine at Government +House. So several of those here assembled now recognised me as +an old acquaintance, and are very friendly in consequence.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It really is too sad to see those fine manly fellows, who, if they +could but work in concert, might be such a powerful little community, +now all torn by internal conflicts and jealousies, continually +fanned by the unprincipled whites, who hope to reap their +harvest in the troubles of their neighbours. I fear it would be +difficult in a few words to explain the position of affairs, but I +must give you a rough outline.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The old original <i>Tui Samoa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, kings—were of the dynasty +of Tupua. Some generations back the Tongans came and invaded +Samoa, whose people resisted bravely, and finally expelled the foe. +The Wellington of that day was a brave chief, who was thenceforth +known as <i>Malietoa</i>, the “Good “Warrior,” a title which from +that day has been borne by the chief ruler of the isles, even if not +in the direct lineal descent. The chiefs of Savaii, and of part of +Upolu, with the lesser isles of Manono and Apolima, elected Malietoa +their king. The isles of Auna and Atua remained loyal to the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>Tupua family. They were, however, conquered by a successor of +Malietoa, who reigned as king of the whole group till 1840, since +which period a ceaseless strife has been waged between the contending +factions. These became aggravated in 1869 by a split in +the Malietoa camp, when, on the death of the reigning chief, his +two sons contested the succession. The chiefs of Savaii supported +the claims of the elder brother, while those of the isle Monono +elected the second, justly believing that the chiefs of Apia were +becoming mere tools in the hands of the foreigners.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This double civil war, fomented as usual by the whites, raged +till 1872, when the United States assumed a sort of protectorate +over the group, and in the following year a republic was declared, +the supreme power being vested in the hands of a representative +body of seven high chiefs. These were called the <i>Taimua</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, +the “Pioneers.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>I must tell you that the great nobles of Samoa are called <i>Alii</i>, +and the greatest care is taken to preserve their line in direct lineal +descent from the ancient chiefs. It is not necessary that the title +should descend from father to son, only that it should be bestowed +on a member of the family, who can trace back his clear pedigree +to the true source. Therefore, on the death of a high chief, the +minor chiefs of the tribe elect the member of the principal family, +whom they will henceforth acknowledge as their political head, +reserving to themselves the power of deposing him should he +prove unsatisfactory.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These minor chiefs also hold their title as head of the family by +election—a son being often passed over in favour of a cousin, and +sometimes even of one who is no blood relation, but is adopted for +some political reason. These head men are the <i>Faipule</i>, who act +as local magistrates in each village, the affairs of which they discuss +in solemn conclave. They have the name of being great +orators, and much eloquence flows in these legislative assemblies. +The great chiefs never speak in public, that office being deputed +to their official spokesman. In a general way the Samoan isles +have divided themselves into ten districts, each of which has its +distinct <i>fono</i> or parliament, and no action is taken in any matter +<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>till the members of one council have arrived at something very +near a unanimous decision. Of course, in times of war like the +present, these matters are very irregular.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In January 1875, a new experiment was tried. Unheeding +the wisdom which forbids having “two queens in Brentford,” the +Samoans resolved to have a king of each dynasty, who should +reign jointly: so Pulepule of the ancient Tupua race ascended the +throne in company with Malietoa Laupepa; and the number of +the <i>Taimua</i> was raised from seven to fourteen. How long this +amicable arrangement might have continued, it is impossible to say; +for on the 1st April 1875, a very serious phase of April fooling +was enacted by an American adventurer, known as Colonel Steinberger, +who, by some means not clearly explained, obtained a +passage to Apia in the United States man-of-war Tuscarora, and +on landing stated that he had been sent from Washington to +organise a new government. As his sole credentials, he presented +the Samoans with four pieces of cannon and a Gatling gun, which, +he said, were a gift from President Grant.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Utterly ignoring all the foreign consuls, including the representative +of the States, he proceeded, under protection of the American +man-of-war, to draw up a new constitution, declaring Malietoa sole +king, and himself (Steinberger) prime minister, and, in fact, supreme +ruler. This matter being settled, the Tuscarora sailed, and +Steinberger proceeded to arm the schooner Peerless (which he had +purchased in San Francisco) with guns and ammunition, and +sailed to Tutuila to put down the disturbances in that island. +The American consul (Mr Foster) vainly remonstrated against the +proceeding of this unlicensed vessel flying the American flag; and +taking advantage of the arrival of H.M.S. Barracouta, commanded +by Captain Stevens, he seized the Peerless for breach of the neutrality +laws.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then followed a meeting of all the foreign residents, resolving +to free themselves from the tyranny of this self-constituted dictator. +Many of the Samoan chiefs joined with the foreigners in claiming +British protection—the German consul, Godeffroy’s representative, +being the only one to stand aloof. The Barracouta arrived on the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>12th December; and on the 7th February, Malietoa appealed to +the United States consul to aid him in getting rid of his arrogant +premier. Mr Foster forwarded this petition to the British consul +and Captain Stevens, who, after an interview with the king and +the Samoan representatives—the <i>Taimua</i> and the <i>Faipule</i>—agreed +to arrest Steinberger, who, accordingly, was carried on board the +Barracouta for safe keeping.</p> + +<p class='c008'>His right hand, Jonas Coe, was however left at large, and by +his advice the Steinberger faction proceeded that night to seize the +king and carry him off to the isle of Savaii, where they forced him +to sign a deed of abdication, vesting all power of government in the +<i>Taimua</i> and <i>Faipule</i>. Within a week Malietoa contrived to send +a message to Captain Stevens, acquainting him with these circumstances, +and requesting his further aid. The Barracouta accordingly +went to the rescue, and brought the king back to Apia, where he +was landed with a salute of twenty-one guns, and a guard of marines +was told off to protect him. The town was now full of armed +mobs, who surrounded the British consulate in a threatening manner, +so that Mr Williams, the consul, was obliged to swear in +special constables for its protection.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So matters went on till the 13th March, when the king, wishing +to explain to his people his reasons for dismissing Steinberger, +summoned all the chiefs to meet him at the neighbouring village +of Mulinunu, which lies on a green peninsula beyond Apia. +Malietoa was escorted by his principal chiefs, the consuls, and +foreign residents, and Captain Stevens, with a guard of sailors and +marines; the latter with unloaded arms, which were piled on +reaching the village. Then, in their rear, appeared a strong party +of armed natives, cutting off their retreat, and evidently meditating +an attack. An officer, with a small party of marines, advanced +to parley with these men, but were received with a volley of musketry, +which killed and wounded several. Then followed a sharp +skirmish, in which the sailors fought at a great disadvantage—the +enemy being 500 strong, and concealed by the dense thickets of +bananas and sugar-cane. Eleven sailors and marines were killed +and wounded, and the assailants lost about double that number. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>Grave fears were entertained that the British and American consulates +would be attacked; so they were put in a state of defence, +which proved a sufficient precaution. Next day Mr Jonas Coe +was tried by his consul and countrymen, and sentenced to be deported. +So he enjoyed the privilege of joining his chief on board +H.M.S. Barracouta, which soon afterwards sailed for New Zealand, +calling at Fiji on the way (on which occasion I made friends with +the three Samoan chiefs whom Captain Stevens had brought away +as hostages for the good behaviour of their party).</p> + +<p class='c008'>Much oil having been poured on these troubled waters by the +soothing intervention of both French and English missionaries, and +especially by the personal influence of the bishop, a superficial +peace was established, and Malietoa Laupepa once more reigned as +king. How soon disturbances have broken out, we now see too +plainly.<a id='r7'></a><a href='#f7' class='c017'><sup>[7]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>After our evening meal at the Fathers’ house, I took a turn in +the moonlight with M. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul, hoping to see a +Samoan dance, which was to come off soon after sunset. But the +council having again met, the dance was deferred till so late that +I thought it better to come back here, where I found all the pretty +little school-girls adorned with garlands, singing and acting very +pretty quaint songs and dances, illustrating their geography, arithmetic, +&c. Then about twenty grown-up women, who had come +in from the village, sprang to their feet, and volunteered to show +me some of the real old Samoan night dances—<i>Po ulu faka Samoa</i>. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>These were exceedingly ungraceful, and half their point seemed to +consist in making hideous grimaces and contortions, and in reducing +wearing apparel to a minimum, consisting chiefly of green +leaves. I think that on the slightest encouragement they would +have dispensed with any. Each figure was more ungainly than its +predecessor, and seemed likely to be prolonged indefinitely; so, +as it struck me that the entertainment would scarcely meet with +the approbation of the good Fathers, should it occur to them for +any reason to come over, I suggested that the children should give +us a parting song, whereupon they sang “Malbrooke” and “Bon +Soir” very prettily, though I daresay the French words they repeated +did not convey much more to their minds than do the +Latin prayers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then the party dispersed, and now the school-girls are all safely +stowed away beneath their close <i>tappa</i> mosquito-curtains, like a +regiment under tents, and I am in possession of the inner reeded +room. It is a great boon to have such a haven of refuge from the +multitude of gazing brown eyes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>By the shouts from the <i>rara</i> I know that the council has broken +up, and the real Samoan dance has now begun; but from the +specimen given to me by the ladies, I think it is just as well that +I came away.—Now, good-night.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VI.<br> <span class='c009'>A SHORE WITHOUT A REEF—SAMOAN PLANTS—HOUSES—ANIMALS—LAYING FOUNDATION-STONE OF A CHURCH—SCHOOL FESTIVAL—THE NAVIGATOR’S ISLES.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Leone, Isle Tutuila</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Sept. 21, 1877</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>At early dawn my pretty half-caste damsel took me to bathe in +the river, but the shore was muddy and not very attractive. We +returned in time for service in the little church, which is about to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>be replaced by a much larger building, the foundations of which +are already raised, and the great event of this afternoon has been +laying its first stone.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Immediately after breakfast at the Fathers’ house, I started +with M. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul for a long, most lovely walk +along the coast, by a path winding among dark rocks and rich +ferns, with great trees overhanging the sea, which breaks in real +surf below them, washing their roots, which seem alive with +myriads of crabs of all sizes, which also wander at large among +the branches, like so many birds. Many of the lower boughs are +actually fringed with shells and sea-weed, while the growth of +parasitic ferns on the upper branches is wonderful to behold. The +muddy shore of the river seemed literally moving, from the multitude +of burrowing crabs, with one large pink claw; and every now +and again a great land-crab would peer at us from some fruit-laden +branch, with its curious eyes projecting on movable stalks, which +turn about at will.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This is the first place in the Pacific where I have seen grand +green waves break on the shore. Throughout the Fijian isles +they spend their force on the barrier-reef, and only the gentlest +ripple washes the coral-sand.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The rainfall here is greatly in excess of that in Fiji, consequently +vegetation is richer, and the intensity of green more remarkable. +So far as I can judge, the general foliage here is identical with +that of the most fertile of “our” isles. The cocoa-nuts are much +larger.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I am afraid to confess how hateful to me is the very thought of +returning to long weary winters in Britain, with six dreary months +of leafless undress. Do you realise that in all these isles there are +only two or three deciduous trees, and that the majority put forth +their wealth of young leaves almost faster than the old drop off? +They are “busy trees” indeed, laden at once with bud and blossom, +ripe and unripe fruit, and in many cases bearing several crops in a +year. No wonder that these light-hearted people care so little to +weary themselves with digging and delving, when the beautiful +groves yield them fruit in abundance, and the mountains supply +<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>uncultivated crops of nourishing bananas and wild yams. For that +matter, I suspect it is really quite as fatiguing to climb the steep +mountains in search of wild vegetables as it would be to grow +them in gardens—probably a good deal more so—for the beautiful +mountain-plantain, which is the staple article of food, grows in all +the most inaccessible valleys and clefts of the rock. As you look +up the steep hillside, so richly clothed with vegetation, the most +prominent forms are these large handsome leaves, with their huge +cluster of fruit growing upright from the centre, but to reach them +you may have to climb a couple of thousand feet—and <i>such</i> climbing! +A man would need to be in very robust health who could +face such a walk to fetch his family food. For my own part, I +should prefer to sacrifice the romance, and plod steadily at my +yam-garden.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These mountain-plantains are the only branch of the family +which carry their fruit upright in that proud fashion; all other sorts +hang drooping below the leaves, like gigantic bunches of yellow +grapes; and the native legend tells how, long ago, all the banana +tribe held their fruit upright, but that in an evil hour they +quarrelled with the mountain-plantain, and were defeated,—hence +they have ever since hung their head in shame.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In heathen days the Samoans seem to have been greatly averse +to unnecessary work, and even the art of making cloth of the +paper-mulberry fibre was one which their indolence long prevented +them from acquiring, though they greatly admired that which their +Tahitian teachers made for them. Now, however, they appear +fairly industrious, and the women particularly so—those of the +highest rank priding themselves on being the most skilful weavers +of fans, mats, and baskets, and in making the strongest fibre-cloth. +The chief men also are willing to do their full share of whatever +work is going on, whether house-building, fishing, working on the +plantation, or preparing the oven and heating the stones to cook +the family dinner.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now all the chief men wear very handsome cloth, thicker and +more glossy than that made in Fiji, though less artistic in design. +Fifty years ago the regular dress of all the men was merely a girdle +<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>of leaves—a simple form of dress, but one which was never dispensed +with, as in many of the Papuan group; indeed, one of the +most humiliating punishments in heathen days was to compel a +culprit to walk naked through the village, or so to sit for hours in +some public place. To this day a leafy girdle is considered essential +as a bathing-dress—the long dracæna leaves being those most +in favour. They are so arranged as to overlap one another like the +folds of a kilt; and as they vary in colour, from brilliant gold to +richest crimson or brightest green, the effect produced is as gay as +any tartan. This is the favourite <i>liku</i>, or kilt, in Fiji even now.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But on great occasions in olden days, as at the present time, the +chiefs, and their wives and daughters, wore very fine mats of the +most delicate cream colour. They are made two or three yards +square, and are as soft and flexible as cloth. The best are made +from the leaves of the pandanus, scraped till there remains only a +fibre thin as paper; but the bark of the dwarf hybiscus also yields +an excellent fibre for weaving mats. Their manufacture is a high +art. It is exclusively women’s work, but is one in which few +excel, and is very tedious,—the labour of several months being +expended on a mat which, when finished, may be worth about ten +dollars.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The strong paper-like cloth commonly worn, is much less +troublesome to manufacture. There are several plants from which +a good cloth-making fibre is obtained. One of them is the magnificent +giant arum, the leaves of which often measure from 5 to 6 +feet in length, by 4 in width. Its root is large in proportion—truly +a potato for a giant. How you would delight in the cosy +brown cottages whose thatched roofs just peep out from among +such leaves as these. You do realise that you are in the tropics +when you see gigantic caladium or quaint papawas, splendid +bananas with leaves 6 or 8 feet long, and tufts of tall maize or +sugar-cane 15 to 20 feet high, growing luxuriantly at every +cottage-door.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-day we passed through several villages, and were everywhere +greeted with the kindly salutation <i>Ole Alofa</i> (<i>i.e.</i>, “Great Love”). +We were invited to enter many houses; and though our scanty +<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>vocabularies did not suffice for much conversation, a mutual inspection +was doubtless gratifying to both parties. The language +of the Samoans is soft, and their voices musical. To express +thanks, they say <i>Faa-fetai</i>. The familiar <i>Vinaka! Vinaka!</i> (<i>i.e.</i>, +“Well done!” in Fijian) is here rendered by <i>Le-lei! Le-lei!</i> +Good-night, is <i>Tofa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, “May you sleep.” The Samoan language +is generally described as the Italian of the Pacific—it is so +mellifluous. It is, however, a very difficult one for a foreigner +to acquire thoroughly, as it has three distinct dialects—the language +used in addressing a high chief, a middle-class gentleman, +or a peasant, being altogether different; and a further complication +arises from the politeness which leads the highest chief to +speak of anything referring to himself in the dialect which describes +the lowest of the people. In Samoa, however, as in the +other Polynesian group, one language is spoken on all the different +isles, and there has at all times been free intercourse between them—a +very different state of things from that which prevails in such +groups as the New Hebrides, where each isle has a dialect—perhaps +two or three—unknown to any of its neighbours, and where +one tribe dares not set foot on the land of another.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Samoa has always been in many respects superior to most of +her neighbours. Not only was she free from the reproach of +cannibalism, but also, in great measure, from that of infanticide, +which prevailed to so frightful an extent in neighbouring groups. +Here children were never destroyed <i>after</i> their birth, though it is +supposed that fully two-thirds of those born in old days, died from +mismanagement in nursing. The sick were invariably treated with +kindness, and old age lovingly tended. Such horrors as the burial +of the living, as practised in Fiji in heathen times, were never +dreamt of in Samoa.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In no land is old age more beautiful than here—partly because +the tendency is to corpulence in place of leanness; and the eyes +retain their clear, piercing brightness, and the countenance a kindly +expression, which tells of the powerful good sense for which many +of these people have been so remarkable. Certainly they are a +handsome and attractive race.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>We noticed in all these villages the same characteristic in +house-building which struck us at Pango-Pango—namely, that +there is a good deal of roof supported on posts, but little of anything +answering to a wall; so the houses resemble huge oval mushrooms, +and home life is of a very public description. There are, +however, movable screens of plaited cocoa-palm, which are put up +so as to enclose the house at night, on the same principle as the +paper walls or screens which compose the sides of a Japanese +house, and which are generally removed in the daytime. The +wooden screens invariably are so.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At night the interior of a Samoan house resembles a small camp, +as large curtains of heavy native cloth are slung from the roof and +hang like tents, within which the sleepers lie on a pile of soft fine +mats, their necks, not their heads, resting on a bamboo or wooden +pillow raised on two legs. Furniture is conspicuous by its total +absence. A few baskets for fish or vegetables hang about the +walls, and a few bundles containing cloth and mats lie in the +corners. Cookery is done out of doors in the native ovens, for +Samoans have no pottery of any sort; so the picturesque cooking-pots +of a Fijian kitchen are lacking. The very few cooking or +water pots which are sometimes seen in a chief’s house have invariably +been imported from Fiji, and are prized accordingly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The roof itself is one of the most precious possessions of the +isles. Ponderous as it appears, it can be divided into four parts, +and removed from one place to another, should the family have +occasion to flit. The great rafters are bound together by strong +creeping-plants (vines or lianas) from the forest, and the ordinary +thatching consists of sugar-cane leaves, strung on reeds, which are +laid so as to overlap one another: sometimes a heavy cocoa-palm +matting above all, secures the roof against a very high wind.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some of the Samoan homes revealed very pleasant cool-looking +groups of comely lads and lasses lounging on their mats, making +and smoking the invariable tiny cigarettes, consisting of a scrap of +tobacco rolled up in a morsel of the dried banana-leaf fringe they +wear round the waist. A few were whiling away the hot hours +of the day by a game with small cocoa-nut shells: each player has +<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>five shells, with which he tries to knock every one else’s shell from +a given spot, leaving his own in their place. They also play a +game something like forfeits. They sit in a circle, in the centre of +which they spin a cocoa-nut on its thin end; and as it falls, the +person towards whom the three black eyes point is considered to +have lost. In the same way they cast lots to decide who shall do +some work or go an errand. In one village a party of lads had +assembled on the village green to play <i>totoga</i>, or reed-throwing—a +game very common in Fiji. The reeds, which are 5 or 6 feet in +length, have oval wooden heads about 4 inches long, and the skill +lies in making these skim along the grass to the furthest possible +distance.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In a green shady glade we saw a party of young men, very +lightly clad, practising spear-throwing, aiming at the soft stems of +banana-trees, which I suppose represented the bodies of their foes. +In the game they take sides, and one party tries to knock out the +spears planted by the other. Sometimes they carry very short +spears, and in throwing these, aim so as first to strike the ground, +whence the shaft glides upwards towards the mark. I am told +that a feat is sometimes performed which must involve marvellous +coolness as well as dexterity. A man, armed only with a club, +stands up as a target, and allows all the others to throw their +spears at him. All these he catches with his club, and turns them +aside in quick succession. It can scarcely be called a pleasant +game, however.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We saw several distressing cases of elephantiasis, which is here +called <i>fè-fê</i>, and, we are told, is common. It produces hideous +malformations; and the sufferers are pitiable objects, the arms and +legs being hideously swollen. The natives attribute this disease to +the action of the sun; but some Europeans who have suffered from +it declare that it is also produced by exposure to the night air, and +by excessive drinking of <i>kava</i>. Happily it is painless. Some of +the Samoans suffer severely from ulcers; and we heard of some +cases of ophthalmia.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here and there, beneath the green shade of the plantains, close +to the houses, we noticed hillocks of white sea-sand, surmounted +<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>by a low oblong cairn of wave-worn pebbles, with a layer of white +stones on the top. These are the graves of the household. No +Highlander is more careful to have his own bones, or those of his +kindred, laid beside the dust of his forefathers, than is the Samoan. +To him the idea of a common cemetery is repulsive. His desire +is to be laid in the tomb in the garden, on land belonging to +his family. When a man of any consequence dies, the ends of a +canoe are cut off, and it is used as a coffin. This, however, is an +innovation. The true old custom was to wrap the body in mats only—fine +soft mats—and to lay it in a shallow grave, with the head to +the east and the feet towards the setting sun. The wooden pillow +and cocoa-nut cup of the dead were buried with him. Then +the grave was covered with white sand, and the cairn was raised, +always about a foot higher at the head than at the feet.</p> + +<p class='c008'>If the deceased was a chief of any note, bonfires were kindled +at short intervals all round the grave, and the mourners sat near +and fed the fires till dawn; and this they did for ten consecutive +nights. But in the case of commoners, it sufficed to keep up a +blazing fire all night in the house, taking care that the intervening +space was so cleared as to allow the warm light to rest on the +grave. The household fireplace was, as it is still, merely a circular +hollow in the middle of the house, lined with clay, only a few +inches deep, and rarely exceeding a yard in diameter. As the +house has no walls, there is no difficulty about smoke, but considerable +danger of setting fire to the surrounding mats. Nowadays, +the fire in the house burns only for warmth, and for the +convenience of lighting cigarettes; but in heathen days a blazing +fire was kindled every evening in honour of the gods, to whom the +house-father commended the family and all their interests.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Near one of the villages we caught a glimpse of a dark olive-green +snake, the first I have seen for many a day. They are not +quite so rare here as in Fiji, but are equally innocent; and the +girls take them up without hesitation, and play with them, and +even twine them round their necks. We also saw some wood-pigeons +and a few paroquets, and lovely little honey-birds, with +crimson-and-black plumage.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>As we crossed the river a frightened water-hen darted from +among the bushes—swallows skimmed lightly through the air, +and several exquisite blue-and-yellow kingfishers glanced in the +sunlight, as they flashed in pursuit of bright-coloured insects.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Flying foxes are very numerous, and, as they hang suspended +from the boughs, head downwards, have the effect of some curious +fruit. They are excellent to eat, as we discovered in Ceylon; but +most Europeans have a prejudice against them—I cannot see why, +as they feed on the best and ripest fruits. I quite understand the +objection to the little insectivorous bats, which cluster in thousands +among the rocks, clinging one to another, till they appear like +brown ropes. The smell of these is simply disgusting.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These are not the only night-birds of Samoa. I am told there +are a good many owls. I did not, however, see any, neither was I +so fortunate as to see the Samoan turtle-dove, with its exquisite +plumage of peacock-green blending with crimson. Green paroquets +abound, and a small scarlet and black bird.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When these isles were first discovered, an indigenous dog was +found in the mountains—a small, dark-grey animal, with very little +hair, short crooked legs, long back, and large erect ears. It fed on +bread-fruit and yams, having no other animal on which to prey, +with the exception of the little native rat. The natives very +naturally considered both dog and rat as dainty dishes for high +days. Happily they contented themselves with these, and held +cannibalism in abhorrence. The wild dog was also found on +Hawaii, Tahiti, and New Zealand.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On some of the isles there was a native breed of pigs, lanky, +long-legged creatures. Like the rats and dogs, they made a virtue +of necessity, and were strict vegetarians. They were found in +Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, and the New Hebrides. These are the +only three quadrupeds that appear to have been indigenous on any +of the Polynesian isles; and now all three are extinct, having died +out on the introduction of their foreign kindred, in obedience to +that sad fate which appears to rule the destinies both of men and +beasts.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The people whose ideal quadruped was a pig, very naturally +<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>judged of all imported animals by this standard: so a goat or a +cow became known as a horned pig; a horse, a man-carrying pig; +a cat, a mewing pig. When the first goat was landed on one of +the Hervey Isles, where even pigs were unknown, the natives +called one another to come and see “the wonderful bird with +great teeth growing out of its head!”</p> + +<p class='c008'>The most interesting aboriginal inhabitant of Samoa is a little +kind of dodo, or tooth-billed pigeon, here called <i>Manu-mea</i>.<a id='r8'></a><a href='#f8' class='c017'><sup>[8]</sup></a> +Though now rare, it is still to be found in the forests, generally +hiding in the tops of the highest trees. The natives say that it +used to frequent the ground, but that since the introduction of +foreign cats and rats, which have proved its deadly foes, it has +instinctively retreated to safer quarters. Its diminished numbers +may probably, however, be attributed to the high value set on it +by the Samoan epicures. It is said to be closely allied to the +extinct dodo. Its body resembles that of a pigeon, but its head +and beak are those of a parrot. Its general plumage is dark-red, +the head and breast being grey. Eyes, legs, and feet are all red, +and the beak is reddish gold. When captured, it is generally very +savage, and bites severely, but it is occasionally tamed, and feeds +on fruit.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Formerly the sporting world of Samoa found its chief pastime, +not in pigeon-shooting, but in pigeon-catching, which sounds a +very innocent amusement, but which was indulged in to such +excess that the teachers found it necessary to discourage it, as it +led to the schools being quite deserted, and all work at a standstill, +for months at a time—the favourite season being from June +till August. The Hurlingham of Samoa was a large circular clearing +in the forest—(there were many such). Thither the whole +population of a district would resort, having previously prepared +great stores of provision. Grandfathers and little children, but +especially young men and maidens, delighted in the dove-festival, +dear to happy lovers. They erected temporary huts in the forest, +and there took up their abode for a prolonged picnic. Many an +idyl of the forest might have been sung by the flower-wreathed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>minstrels of Samoa; and the wide world could offer no lovelier +scene than the exquisite tropical forests of these happy isles, where +no hurtful creature lies hidden. But I fear that even here the +idyls were not free from occasional touches of shadow; though +doubtless there were reflected lights, enough to relieve any transient +shade, and lovers’ quarrels were forgotten in new loves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All round the central clearing, hiding-places were constructed +and covered with green boughs. In each of these a sportsman +was concealed, holding in one hand a stick to which a tame pigeon +was attached by a string some ten yards in length. These pigeons +were all trained to fly round and round; and the wild wood-doves +seeing so many of their fellows circling round one spot, naturally +supposed there was something good to be shared, and ventured +near, when, from each ambush a long slim bamboo was thrust +forth, with a net attached, and the stranger was forthwith captured. +Of course, he who caught the largest number was the hero of the +hour, and to him was presented the evening feast—at which baked +pigeons figured largely. Some, however, were preserved alive, to +be trained as decoy-birds, as this pigeon-taming was a favourite +occupation at all seasons of the year,—indeed is so at the present +time; for the Samoan takes as much pride in his doves and +pigeons, as a Briton does in his hounds and horses. The birds +are trained in such habits of idleness that they will not even feed +themselves, but sit patiently waiting till their master actually puts +their daily bread—yam, banana, or cocoa-nut—into their open +mouths.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Samoan dove and its wooing furnished the theme for one +of the prettiest of the native dances. The girls, while gently +gliding to and fro, utter the low soft call of the female dove, their +mates answering from afar, in deeper resounding tones, and circling +around, ever drawing nearer and nearer, till the wooers and the +wooed unite in a <i>ballet</i> of much graceful fluttering.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We got back to Leone just in time to see the ecclesiastical procession +start from the old church to the site of the new one. At +the consecration service, the bishop wore his mitre and a very +gorgeous vestment of patchwork, presented by the Samoan ladies. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>I grieve to have to record that in leading the procession round the +foundations of the new church, he made the turn <i>widdershins</i>.<a id='r9'></a><a href='#f9' class='c017'><sup>[9]</sup></a> +I believe that this is contrary to ecclesiastical custom—and of +course to my Scottish mind it suggested grievous misfortunes in +store.</p> + +<p class='c008'>An immense crowd of people had assembled, and the influence +of European bad taste was too apparent in several cases; as for +instance, in the uniform selected by a large college of young men, +and provided by themselves—namely, white trousers, magenta +blouse, and sky-blue waist-band! The girls wore white calico +<i>sulus</i><a id='r10'></a><a href='#f10' class='c017'><sup>[10]</sup></a> and pale-green pinafores, which, with their hair dyed yellow, +were becoming. But they looked a thousand times better when, +at a school festival held later, they exchanged the white skirts for +very fine cream-coloured mats embroidered round the edge with +scarlet wool, necklaces of large scarlet berries and green leaves, and +scarlet hybiscus and green leaves in their hair. They went through +some very pretty school exercises, illustrated by much graceful +action.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then some very fine women came up, wearing handsome new +mats of hybiscus fibre, which, when newly prepared, is pure white, +and after a while becomes creamy in hue. They presented us all +with very pretty fans of woven grass.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then came a presentation of much food, including about thirty +pigs, which were, ere long, devoured by the assembled multitude.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The bishop was terribly exhausted by all this prolonged exertion +and much talking; but as an instance of his never-failing kindness +to everybody, I may tell you, that when the school-feast was over, +I came to this, my special nest, remarking to some one that I was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span><i>fatiguée</i>, forgetting that the word may be interpreted as “not +well.” So when the kind bishop came home to his much needed +rest, he heard this, and, tired as he was, at once came to this house, +which is at some distance, bringing a great roll of native cloth to +soften my mat couch, and chocolate and other little delicacies, +which he thought I might fancy. I <i>was</i> so sorry,—but it illustrates +the beautiful unselfishness of that genial nature.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-morrow we are to leave this lovely isle Tutuila and cross to +the great isle of Upolu, on which is situated Apia, the capital.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This group, which in our schoolroom days we were taught to +call the Navigators Isles, but which its inhabitants know as Samoa, +consists of eight principal isles and several small islets. By far +the largest are Savaii and Upolu—the former being 250 miles in +circumference, the latter 200. Both are very beautiful, having +high mountain-ranges, visible at a distance of 70 miles, and richly +wooded. They are separated by a strait about 12 miles wide, the +mouth of which is, as it were, guarded by two small islands, +Manono and Aborima.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The former lies close to Upolu, and one reef encircles both. It +is the home of some of the high chiefs, and is an exceedingly fertile +little island, clothed with the richest verdure. It is about five +miles in circumference.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Aborima, as seen from the sea, appears to be only a huge precipitous +mass of rock, rising to a height of 200 or 300 feet. It is about +two miles in circumference, and is probably the crater of an extinct +volcano, for it is shaped like the hollow of a hand, whence it +derives its name. It is inaccessible, except at one small opening +between the steep cliffs; but passing between these you enter an +amphitheatre, which, from the base to the summit, presents an +unbroken mass of tropical vegetation—a most marvellous transformation +scene from the desolate crags of the seaboard. A charming +little village nestles beneath the fruit-bearing trees in the basin.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This natural stronghold belongs to the chiefs of Manono, who +use it in time of war as a safe refuge for their families and storehouse +for their property. All they need do, is to guard the narrow +entrance, which they can either defend by dropping rocks on the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>invaders, or by so placing ropes across it that they can overturn +their canoes. So, although the warlike men of Manono have occasionally +been driven from their own isle, they have always found +a secure retreat in this lovely rock-girt fortress, where they take +good care always to have abundant stores of food ready for emergencies. +That they need such a place of refuge, you may infer +from the fact that when they were first visited by white men, +about fifty years ago, a basket was suspended from the ridge-pole +of a sort of war-temple, and in it were preserved 197 stones, which +were the record of the number of battles which the men of +Manono had fought up to that date!</p> + +<p class='c008'>I do not know how many of these isles we are to visit. The +more the better, since all are beautiful. But whenever I admire +anything, the invariable reply is, “You like this? Ah, wait till +you see Tahiti!” Evidently it is the ideal isle. No one will +believe that I am <i>not</i> going on. Indeed I am beginning scarcely +to believe it myself. Well, we’ll see when we reach Apia.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VII.<br> <span class='c009'>VANQUISHED CHIEFS OF THE PULETOA FACTION UNDER PROTECTION OF THE UNION-JACK—CONVENT SCHOOL—“BULLY” HAYES—POSTAL DIFFICULTIES—HOUSE OF GODEFFROY—VILLAGE OF MALINUNU—VEGETABLES AND FISH—ADVANTAGES OF ANGLO-AMERICAN COMPANIES.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>British Consulate,</span></div> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Apia, Isle Upolu</span>, <i>Monday, 24th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We arrived here yesterday morning, and I confess that, having +heard so much of the beauty of this place, I am rather disappointed. +It is not to be compared with Levuka<a id='r11'></a><a href='#f11' class='c017'><sup>[11]</sup></a> from a picturesque +point of view. A very long village, scattered round a horse-shoe +bay, with cocoa-palms <i>ad libitum</i>, and background of rather shapeless +rich green wooded hills, part of which are under cultivation. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>Certainly the hills do gradually ascend to a height of fully 4000 +feet, so they are not to be despised; but our eyes are satiated with +the beauty of volcanic peaks and crags, rising from an ocean of +foliage wellnigh as rich as this. Doubtless if we have time to +explore the interior, we shall find no lack of loveliness; indeed +even from the harbour we could distinguish one grand waterfall, +like a line of flashing quicksilver on the dark-green mountain. +But to reach it, would involve a long day of hard walking, such +as I could not attempt, even were the sun less powerful than it is +to-day. This town, which is the capital of Samoa, consists of +about two hundred houses and stores—German, English, and +American consulates, a Roman Catholic college and cathedral, a +Congregational chapel, and two newspaper offices, representing the +stormy politics of the isles—namely the ‘Samoan Times’ and the +‘South Sea Gazette.’</p> + +<p class='c008'>The strong point of Apia is the excellence of its harbour—a +point which the German traders have made good use of, in securing +their own right to a large part of it.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As soon as we anchored, M. Pinart escorted me, first to call on +Dr and Mrs G. A. Turner of the London Medical Mission, and +then to H.B.M. Consulate, which was my destination—the wife of +the consul, Mrs Liardet, and her mother, Mrs Bell, having been +our friends in Fiji, before they were sent to this place. We found +that Mr L. had just sailed for Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon +on the best course to follow in the present critical state of affairs, +when every man’s hand is seemingly against his neighbour, and +each trying to induce the natives to espouse his individual quarrels +as well as their own. So the whole community are at loggerheads. +The whites are mostly riff-raff of a very low order; and in short, +the Samoa of to-day is simply a reproduction of what Fiji was +before annexation. Many of the scamps who are now working its +strings are the identical men who, finding Fiji no longer a happy +land of misrule, have just moved on to the next group, there to +repeat the intrigues of their previous life.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As I have explained to you, the Samoans are divided into two +great factions, betwixt whom there is war to the death; and, unfortunately, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>this ill feeling is kept up by the utterly unprincipled +whites—German, English, and American—who have their own +interests to serve, and are quite unscrupulous as to the means they +employ. So, thanks to their machinations, there was a sharp +skirmish about three months ago actually in the town, close to +this house, and to the convent, where the French Sisters have a +large and excellent school for girls. There appears no doubt that +it began by a treacherous onset unawares, instigated by a scoundrelly +American. The fight lasted all night, just behind this house. +Sixty men of the Puletoa faction were slain, and their heads were +cut off and sent to friendly chiefs as delicate offerings.</p> + +<p class='c008'>You can imagine the horror of that night to the ladies here, +hearing the noise of battle, the firing of muskets, and the shouts +of the warriors, but unable to distinguish through the darkness +what was going on. In the first glimmer of dawn they looked +out, and saw a great crowd of poor terrified refugees of the Puletoa +party crouching round the flag-staff here (at the consulate), claiming +British protection. The Union-jack that was run up that +morning has never since been lowered day or night, as the conquerors +have as yet given no definite promise to spare the lives of +the vanquished. Others, who had hidden in the scrub, have since +crept in, under cover of night; and from that day to the present, +the fifty men (great chiefs and their followers), besides wives and +children, are living within the very confined grounds of the +consulate.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The men never dare to venture outside these bounds, knowing +that for long the place was surrounded by guards of the enemy, +watching to shoot any of the refugees who might venture to step +over the enclosure, which at the time of the fight was only partially +fenced in. The women and children are, however, allowed to +go out and forage. The principal chiefs sleep in the dining-room +and passages, and wherever they can find room to lie down; and +when I come to my room at night, I have to pick my way in and +out among the sleepers. But the majority of the followers have +built a large native house in the garden, where they sleep; and as +they dare not go out even to bathe, they have dug a deep well for +<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>their own use; and Mrs Liardet has given them her tin-lined +piano-case, which they have converted into a very good comfortable +bath. They have sunk it near the well, and fenced it round, +so it answers capitally, and has the merit of being quite a novel +use for a piano-case!</p> + +<p class='c008'>All their arrangements are very tidy; and they are a fine, dignified +lot—especially the chiefs; and all are so very nice and respectful, +that their presence in and about the house is not half such an +inconvenience as you might imagine. Indeed Mrs Liardet and +Mrs Bell have grown quite fond of them; and they in their turn +delight to play with Mrs L.’s baby, who is a bright little laughing +pet. Indeed they act as a splendid guard, and are always quiet +and well-behaved. But some of the poor fellows have terrible +coughs, which keep themselves and us awake half the night; and +being awake, they do talk a good deal, which diminishes the chance +of our falling asleep again.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They are a handsome race, pleasant to the eye, and happily do +not, like so many of the Tongan chiefs, affect foreign dress. They +either wear fine mats, or else very thick handsome native cloth of +bread-fruit or paper-mulberry fibre. Very few wear any covering +on the shoulders, so the fine bronzed figures are seen to full advantage; +and as I look down from this verandah I see on every +side of me such groups as an artist would love to paint. Picturesque +men, women, and children, bright sunlight and gay blossoms, +rich foliage, and palm-leaves flashing like quicksilver as they wave +in the breeze, framing the blue waters of the harbour, where the +foreign ships lie anchored.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But all these poor people do look so sad, and no wonder; for +even if their lives are saved, all their property is lost, and many of +these were the wealthy nobles of the land. Some people here say +that they might now safely return to their usual life; but others, +equally old inhabitants, and equally well informed, say they are in +as great danger as ever. It seems just touch-and-go whether a few +days will see the renewal of a very bloody war, or whether all will +agree to an unconditional cession to England. There is a strong +impression that if Sir Arthur Gordon were to arrive here now, the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>latter would be certain; and that it is the only possible panacea +for poor Samoa’s wounds.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Within a stone’s-throw of this house lie the grounds of the +French convent, where four nice ladylike French Sisters, and two +Samoan Sisters, devote themselves to the care of about sixty native +girls—bright, pleasant-looking lassies. The native Sisters appear +to be thoughtful and devout women. There is an atmosphere of +peace and calm within the convent grounds strangely in contrast +with all the disquiet which prevails outside. Life here is quite +Dr Watts’s ideal—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“In books, and work, and healthful play,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Let my first years be passed.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I can answer for the joyousness of the merry games that were +played beneath the cool green shade of banana and bread-fruit +trees, and also for the excellent work done in graver moments. +Very pleasant, too, are the sweet young voices, trained in their +singing by one of the Sisters, who is herself an admirable musician +and a good vocalist. They were all greatly interested in +hearing news of the Sisters at Tonga, which I was happily able to +give them. Great is the delight of every one here at the return +of the bishop, to whom all who desire peace seem to look with +trust.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Do you remember my telling you, when the Samoan chiefs came +to Fiji to consult Sir A. Gordon, that they brought with them two +pretty, high-caste girls, Faioo and Umoo, with whom we made great +friends? I found them both here, and they seemed overjoyed on recognising +me. They are both girls of good (Samoan) character, and +daughters of high chiefs. Their fathers, who are in the victorious +government party, likewise recognised and cordially welcomed me.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A considerable number of the bright merry girls at the good +Sisters’ school are half-castes—the children of Samoan mothers by +French, English, or German fathers. Amongst these, two gentle, +modest-looking lassies were pointed out to me as the daughters +of the notorious “Bully” Hayes, of whose piratical exploits I have +heard many a highly seasoned yarn from the older residents in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>Fiji, where he occasionally appeared, as he did in all the other +groups, as a very erratic comet, coming, and especially vanishing, +when least expected, each time in a different ship, of which by +<i>some</i> means he had contrived to get possession; always engaged in +successful trade with stolen goods; ever bland and winning in +manner, dressed like a gentleman, decidedly handsome, with long +silky brown beard; with a temper rarely ruffled, but with an iron +will, for a more thoroughgoing scoundrel never sailed the seas. +The friend who trusted to his courteous promises was his certain +victim. If he was in the way, he was as likely as not to have his +throat cut, or to be turned adrift on a desert isle. If owner of the +vessel, he was probably landed to make arrangements for the sale of +his cargo, while Bully Hayes was already on his way to some distant +port to sell the said cargo for his own benefit, and then trade with +the ship, till it became inconvenient to hold her, when she was deliberately +scuttled.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is about twenty years since this notorious pirate first made +his appearance in the Pacific, when for some reason he was landed +on the Sandwich Isles, apparently against his will. He was then +accompanied by Mrs Hayes, the mother of these two girls, who +now lives at Apia in respected solitude. For many years her lord +has cheered his voyages with companions from all manner of isles, +whom he has contrived to dispose of so soon as metal more attractive +presented itself.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At last this inhuman miscreant has met his doom. Only a few +days ago a vessel came into port bringing the news of his death. +As he was entering his cabin he was knocked on the head with a +marline-spike by his mate, who had suffered brutal ill-treatment +at his hands, and so, determined on revenge. I doubt if even one +woman was found to mourn him. It was a meet ending to such a +career.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A messenger has just run here in hot haste to tell me that a +ship is in the act of sailing, and will take this letter. This morning +we asked in vain if there were any chance of a mail, and +were assured that there was none. I can barely catch this—so +good-bye.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span><i>Same Evening.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Truly those whites of Samoa are aggravating Ishmaelites—all +striving to outwit one another, without one thought for the common +weal. Ever since we anchored here we have been trying to +learn whether any vessels were about to leave the harbour, and +this very day we sent an express to the German consul, who replied +that he believed it would be three weeks before a vessel +sailed. But it seems that he represents Godeffroy’s house, whereas +this ship belongs to Hedeman & Rouget; and all these firms are so +jealous of one another, and so afraid of being asked to carry letters +that their ships all try to sneak out of harbour without giving +notice to the postal authorities.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Dr Turner heard of this chance by the merest accident, through +a grateful patient, and sent me word immediately, but being at the +other end of a long beach, the information reached me just too late. +Now weeks may elapse before there is another chance.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Just now I mentioned the house of Godeffroy of Hamburg.<a id='r12'></a><a href='#f12' class='c017'><sup>[12]</sup></a> +This place is the headquarters of that great firm, which absorbs +the principal trade of the Pacific. There is “neither speech nor +language” where the name of this omnivorous firm is not heard. +At Cochin-China in the north-west, Valparaiso in the south-east, +and Samoa midway, they have established centres, from which +their emissaries radiate in every direction, and their vast fleet of +trading vessels are for ever on the alert to enlarge the field of their +operations. They are the Graballs of this side of the world. +Hearing of the profitable trade carried on here by Messrs Brander +& Hort of Tahiti, they decided to follow in their footsteps, and +ere long succeeded in effectually supplanting them.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This was partly effected by artfully fostering the intertribal +disputes, which were ever smouldering among the Samoans, and +then liberally supplying the combatants with arms and ammunition +from their own arsenal at Liège (Belgium). For these useful imports +they accepted payment in broad tracts of the most fertile +<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>lands in Samoa, where they now own about 25,000 acres of the +finest alluvial soil and richest forest, all intersected by streams and +rivers, acquired at a cost of about three shillings an acre! On this +land they are establishing large plantations, upwards of 4000 acres +being devoted to cotton. To work these they employ about 1000 +“foreign labour,” imported from the multitudinous groups with +which their vessels trade.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here, at Apia, they own a first-class harbour, and have established +a regular shipbuilding-yard, wherein to refit old vessels and +build new ones. And in many a remote isle, in various parts +of the Pacific, they have acquired lands and harbours, to secure +central points of operation. In the Ellis group they have bought +the isle of Nukufetau, on account of its excellent harbour; and +(passing onwards towards their original establishment at Cochin) +they have secured 3000 acres on the isle of Yap, in the Pelew +group, to the west of the Caroline Isles. I believe there is not +one group in the Central Pacific where they have not established +trading relations. They are said to have agents resident on +every isle where there is any possibility of gain, and where the +natives will tolerate the presence of a white man. Naturally the +majority of these are by no means men calculated to improve the +people; in many cases they are taken from the riff-raff, who in +past years have sought in the isles an asylum from civilised laws, +and by long residence have acquired a thorough knowledge of the +habits and language of the natives. These men receive no salary. +They are simply provided with the materials to build a solid house, +and a supply of whatever trade is likely to prove acceptable to the +people as barter, and are expected to accumulate an equivalent in +produce within a reasonable period. No awkward questions as to +character are asked. The <i>sine quâ non</i> is a knowledge of the +language, a power of discreet silence, and a capability of not +quarrelling with the natives. To further the latter requirement, +their employers stipulate that every agent of theirs shall have his +own “establishment,” no matter from what isle he may import +his companion. But they resolutely refuse to sanction the legal +marriage of any German subject with a native woman.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>Nor is this the only point in which this mighty anti-Christian +firm opposes itself to all efforts for the improvement of the people. +To all their widely scattered agents one clear direction is given: +“Never assist missionaries either by word or deed, but, wheresoever +you may find them, use your best influence with the natives +to obstruct and exclude them.”<a id='r13'></a><a href='#f13' class='c017'><sup>[13]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>It is interesting to find so plain an acknowledgment of the +principles which animate so large a section of the mercantile communities +in all quarters of the earth. In every case the opposition +seems due to the same cause—a covert hatred to the teaching +which discountenances immorality of all sorts, including that of +exchanging bad goods at fictitious prices for useful products. It +matters little whether blue beads and muskets, or opium (with a +background of English artillery), be the goods to be disposed of, +the principles involved, and the consequent antagonism to every +agency for good, are necessarily the same.</p> + +<p class='c008'>How well the agents and shipmasters carry out their instructions +may be inferred from such an experience as that of the mission-ship +Morning Star, which, a few years ago, made her way to the +Kingsmill group on the equator. A pilot came out to meet her, +and made her anchor three miles from the village, desiring that no +one should venture to land without permission from the king. +The latter, on hearing that it was a missionary ship, recalled the +counsels given to him by the captains of various trading vessels, +who, he said, had all warned him that should a missionary ever +come to the isles he must on no account be permitted to land, as +he would shortly bewitch both king and people. So the wary +monarch vowed that no such sorcerer should set foot in his realms; +and he accordingly sent a message to the strangers to say, that if +they stood in need of anything he could give them, they should +have it, but they must go right away, and never come back. +Thus the unrighteous counsels prevailed, and the true friends were +banished at the bidding of the selfish money-grubbers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is unfortunately only too notorious that wherever, as in those +<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>northern isles, the natives have derived their first impressions of +civilisation from traders, they have invariably deteriorated, and +the white influence has been exerted to exclude all improving +influences. On the other hand, throughout Polynesia, the missionaries +were the first to occupy the field, where traders dared +not venture, and in every case they so tamed the fierce savages +that commerce naturally followed in their wake and under their +protection. Yet even here no debt of gratitude is considered due +to the successors of those early pioneers; and the antagonism of +the traders to the missionaries is unfortunately notorious.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From what I have told you, you can gather that the transactions +of the house of Godeffroy are carried out on a pretty extensive +scale; and as all European goods are sold at a clear profit of a +hundred per cent, exclusive of all expenses, they contrive to heap +up riches at a very rapid rate. One of their peculiarities is, that +they never insure their ships. They pay their shipmasters very +low salaries, rarely exceeding £5 a month, but supplement this +sum by allowing them a commission of three per cent on the net +profits of each voyage.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another peculiarity, which is particularly annoying to the white +community (and this is a point on which I speak feelingly), is that +of despatching their ships from Apia with sealed orders, which are +not opened till the vessel reaches a certain latitude, so that no one +on board knows her destination. Consequently, however great a boon +the chance of a passage might be to any person detained in the +isles, or how valuable an opportunity of sending letters, ship after +ship leaves this harbour without giving a hint of her intentions.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The house of Godeffroy has not been the only purchaser of vast +tracts of land in these isles. The Polynesian Land Company +(whose claims to enormous tracts in the Fijian isles were somewhat +upset by annexation, and the consequent necessity of proving their +titles to their broad acres) carried on very pretty land speculations +in Samoa, where they profess to have legally acquired about +300,000 acres on the four largest and most fertile islands. Their +leader is a Mr Stewart, one of two brothers who have struck out +for themselves very remarkable careers in these seas. The other +<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>brother was a well-known character in Tahiti, who blew a brilliant +bubble company, which for a while dazzled the world of the +South Seas—till the bubble burst, and the blower died miserably.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate</span>, <i>Tuesday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Yesterday evening we were sitting in the verandah enjoying the +coolness of the lovely evening, when we heard very pretty singing +in a garden near. Some gentlemen who were calling took me to +the spot, where a large party of Samoan girls were sitting on the +grass beneath the palms and rosy oleanders. The singing and +surroundings were all attractive. Indeed it is difficult to look on +such a peaceful scene, and realise how very recently it was a hideous +battle-field; and sad indeed to think how few days may elapse +ere the grass—to-day so green—may be stained with the blood of +all these fine men. In Samoan warfare the aim of each warrior is +to secure as many heads as possible. Hence the sixty ghastly +heads which were carried from here to all parts of the group only +three months ago. But before they are so scattered, it is customary +for the victors to pile them up in a hideous pyramid, surmounted +by the head of the highest chief slain. An ugly feature in +war here, is the practice of a large body of men landing at dead of +night at some distance from an unguarded settlement, and stealing +stealthily in, to surprise the unsuspecting sleepers: then suddenly +rushing into the houses, slice off every man a head, of grey-haired +patriarch or slumbering infant boy, and dashing down to the shore, +where their canoes have meanwhile arrived, push off ere the +startled villagers are sufficiently awake to arm for defence or vengeance. +Only male heads are required. It would be considered +cowardly to kill a woman. Nevertheless these are sometimes desperately +wounded in the struggle to defend their little ones from +their ruthless assassins.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In old days, after a battle, such of the headless bodies as were +recognised received decent burial; the others were left as carrion, +a prey to the village dogs and pigs. The influence of Christianity +now secures burial for all. Strange to say, it also secures a rigid +<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>observance of the Sabbath, on which day the belligerents, by common +consent, abstain from fighting, and allow teachers and missionaries +to pass freely in and out of their camps, holding religious +services in which all join, each no doubt invoking the aid of the +God of battles on his own behalf. I doubt whether many of +the nations among whom Christianity has been long established, +would pause in their battling from any deference to the day of +rest. And though these raids and distributions of heads savour +rather of Jewish than of Christian practices, I think the British +Isles could have furnished pretty close parallels in the days of +Border forays, when a foeman’s head, stuck on a halbert, was +reckoned no mean trophy; or when one who was considered a +traitor had fallen by the headsman’s axe, and his head and quartered +body were stuck on pikes—a ghastly spectacle for all men—while +his entrails were thrown into the fire. So you need not decry the +Christianity of these poor Samoans, because the old war-spirit still +stirs in their veins.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have just had a visit from Mrs G. A. Turner, who most kindly +called to ask whether I would like to accompany her husband to a +lovely place, twelve miles from here, where he expects to have a +large meeting of the people. It is very tempting, and being a +three days’ trip, would give me time for some sketches; but there +is so much that is interesting here, that I have reluctantly declined.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After luncheon Mr Pritchard took me along the shore to Malinunu, +the village on a peninsula, where the unfortunate skirmish +occurred between the Samoans and the men of the Barracouta. It is +now the seat of government, and here the <i>Taimua</i> and the <i>Faipule</i>, +who are the triumphant faction, reign. One of their English instigators +occupies the house of Malietoa, the conquered king, and +lives under the special protection of the men whom he has beguiled. +It is a tidy village of thatched houses, smothered in bananas and +tall sugar-cane.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Wednesday Night.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We have been exploring all the near neighbourhood. Passing +through the grounds of the Fathers’ house (where the good bishop +<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>gave us welcome), we ascended a pretty steep hill to the Catholic +college for young men—a large and very orderly establishment. +It was a pretty walk, through woods and cultivated ground. +Everything seems to grow here, and some plantations are worked +on a large scale with imported foreign labour. Cotton, sugar-cane, +maize, coffee, nutmegs, cinnamon, arrowroot, tapioca, millet, barley, +and even rice, of a sort which does not require irrigation, and can +be grown on high levels. Vegetables of all sorts thrive in the +French gardens, telling of industry and care; but somehow here, +as in Fiji, European flowers do not repay the trouble expended on +them, except for old association. Their place is taken by the +datura, with its heavy-scented, white, trumpet-shaped blossoms, +the gay pride of Barbadoes, various fragrant jessamines, and hybiscus +of all colours.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In all these volcanic soils, water, and water only, is needed to +convert the thirsty dust into most fertile earth. Here, what with +perennial springs and an excessive rainfall, the mountains have an +abundant water-supply; and in every ravine a clear sparkling +stream is fed by countless rills and waterfalls, cool and delicious. +But so dry and thirsty are the lower hills, that the generous +streams, giving instead of receiving, are actually absorbed ere they +reach the seaboard, and only a bed of dry stones marks the channel, +by which in occasional floods the torrents rush into the ocean. +Consequently all cultivation on the lower levels involves artificial +irrigation.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The fish supply here seems good. There are rock-fish in endless +variety,—albicore, bonito, and a sort of salmon with white flesh, +and a very delicate fish called the gar-fish, with a projecting lower +jaw. When this creature grows large and strong, it sometimes +unintentionally proves a very dangerous neighbour, as when +startled by the approach of a canoe, it is very apt to spring on +board with such force as seriously to injure any person whom it +strikes with its sword-like jaw. I believe that nude natives have +actually been killed by those frightened creatures. The fishers +here still practise the somewhat unfair method of stupefying fish +by throwing into the water the bruised seeds of the <i>hutu</i>, or Barringtonia +<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>tree. Turtle abound, both the hawk’s-bill, which yields +the tortoise-shell of commerce, and the green. Prawns, shrimps, +and eels are found in the rivers, while the coral-reefs yield all +manner of shell-fish, lobsters, and crabs. I hear that oysters are +to be had, but have not seen any.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Speaking of the reef, the natives say that they can foretell a +storm, hours before its approach, by noticing the echini<a id='r14'></a><a href='#f14' class='c017'><sup>[14]</sup></a> crawling +into snug holes where they may lie secure, undisturbed by the +raging waters. “The sea roars and the echini listen,” is the Samoan +proverb to describe prudence.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have just heard with great interest that the <i>balolo</i> (here called +<i>palolo</i>)—those curious sea-worms, concerning whose annual visit to +Fiji I wrote to you at the time—also honour the reef of Apia with +a call, just in the same mysterious manner, rising to the surface of +the sea for a couple of hours before sunrise on one given day, +which the natives can always calculate beforehand, so as to be out +by midnight, watching for the first glimmer of dawn, when, sure +enough, countless myriads of black and green worms, thin as +threads, and perhaps a yard long, come to the surface—an easy +prey to the joyous crowd of men and girls, who scoop them up in +baskets, nets, gourds, anything they can get hold of, each trying +who can collect the biggest share of the writhing, wriggling worms +which, when baked in a banana-leaf, are esteemed a most delicious +dainty, and do taste something like spinach and salt water, with a +<i>soupçon</i> of lobster. But the extraordinary thing about them is +their only rising once a year for two hours, and never mistaking +their set time, then disappearing totally till the following year. +In Samoa, I am told, the day falls in August. In Fiji a few come +one morning in October, but their grand day is about 25th +November.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This afternoon Captain Aube kindly lent us his whale-boat to +take us across the creek to Matautu, which is the further end of +the settlement. We went to make some small purchases at the +various stores, chiefly to see them. One of these belongs to the +celebrated Stewart, whose partner being an American, the firm has +<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>the advantage of flying either the Union-jack or the Stars and +Stripes, as may best suit the tide of affairs. At present this house +is divided against itself; and a few days ago the agent of the +American partner declared the place to be the sole property of <i>his</i> +superior, and having sealed everything with the consular seal, he +ran up the Stars and Stripes. Being, however, obliged to go to +Fiji on business, Stewart’s agent has broken these precious seals, +and in the name of <i>his</i> chief, has hoisted the ensign of Britain. +This is a fair sample of the sort of pull-devil, pull-baker way in +which business is conducted in this curious community. It leads +to endless complications, as each party invariably appeals to his +consul to visit his opponent with all the terrors of the law. At the +present moment Stewart’s store is a centre of interest, because the +American consul wishes forcibly to remove thence a certain Captain +Wright, a citizen of the United States, who defies his authority, +and whom we saw sitting peacefully in the store, under the shadow +of the Union-jack.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The coin chiefly in circulation here is the Chilian and Bolivian +dollar, of very debased silver, commonly known in the Pacific as +“iron-money.” Its introduction was one of the sharp speculations +of Messrs Godeffroy, who obtained an enormous amount at a very +cheap rate, and therewith commenced trade with the Samoans, who +accept the dollar as the equivalent of 100 cents, or the half dollar +as 50 cents, whereas two half dollars or one whole, are barely worth +75 cents. So the profit on this little job was considerable—and if +it <i>has</i> added one more straw to poor Samoa’s burden of trouble, +that is no concern of the traders.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On our homeward way we called on a very friendly lady, who, +with her daughters, was engaged in preparing an immense array of +excellent pastry, for a great picnic “<i>Fa-Samoa</i>”<a id='r15'></a><a href='#f15' class='c017'><sup>[15]</sup></a> which is to be +given to-morrow in honour of us, the visitors. Then we went on +to the convent, to invite the good Sisters to join us, and bring all +<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>their girls. I am sure they will enjoy the chance of a French talk +with their countrymen.</p> + +<hr class='c016'> + +<p class='c008'>It is quite impossible to get at the truth about anything here. +Another German vessel went out of harbour this morning. No +one knew she was going till she was actually under way. I can +only hope that my letter may reach you some day, by some route! +Meanwhile, good-night.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VIII<br> <span class='c009'>THE ISHMAELITES OF THE PACIFIC—INJUDICIOUS INTERVENTION—FA-SAMOA PICNIC—A TORCHLIGHT WALK—TRAINING COLLEGE AT MALUA—APT ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATIVE PREACHERS—DR TURNER—MISSION TO THE NEW HEBRIDES—ESCAPE TO SAMOA—OF MANY CHANGES ON MANY ISLES.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>British Consulate</span>,</div> + <div class='line'><i>Thursday Night, 27th September</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I was roused at early dawn by a French sailor appearing at my +open door. (All rooms in these countries open on to the verandah.) +He brought despatches, which he begged I would immediately +translate for the vice-consul. A most senseless row has taken place, +and all the inhabitants are in as great a turmoil as wasps whose +nest has been disturbed.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It appears that the American consul, though personally mixed +up in many questionable transactions here, has contrived effectually +to bewilder the mind of the too sympathetic and kind captain of +the Seignelay, with the story of his woes, and of the ill-treatment +and insults to which he has been subjected. So last night he went +on board to solicit armed assistance to enable him to capture several +refractory American subjects, who refused to acknowledge his +authority.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Without a thought of possible consequences, and acting on the +kind impulse of giving the required help to an unfortunate official, +Captain Aube agreed to lend Mr Griffin the necessary force. A +<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>considerable body of armed men were accordingly landed at 10 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span>, +and were led by the U.S. consul to Stewart’s store, whence Captain +Wright had just departed. Stewart’s agents wrote a protest against +such proceedings, then walked out of the house, locking it, and +pocketing the key, leaving only a sick man inside. They affirmed +that Wright was not in the house, but added that if a warrant +were obtained from the British consulate, the U.S. consul might +search to his heart’s content. Ignoring all remonstrance, the search-party +broke open the house, and sought in vain for the bird who +had flown.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Meanwhile another boat-load had gone in the opposite direction +to search for more delinquents, none of whom were captured. And +a third party came to demand the surrender of the house next +to this one, which the bishop claims as Church property, though +Stewart’s agent has thought fit there also to hoist the British flag. +This demonstration also proved futile, as the said agent, Mr Hunt, +presented a firm front, and refused to quit the premises. The +whole thing has been a sort of Don Quixote and the windmills +business, resulting in nothing but stirring up much bad blood. Of +course immense excitement prevails in consequence of this insult +offered to a house flying the Union-jack. (Poor Union-jack! it is +made to sanction some very shady doings in these far corners of +the earth.) The Franco-Griffin party allege that the house is +American property, and that the unjustifiable proceeding was that +of breaking open the U.S. consular seals and hauling down the +Stars and Stripes!</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the best, it is a low, contemptible row; and I am dreadfully +sorry (as are all the French officers) that their kind captain’s +Quixotic kindness should have drawn him into it. But it is more +difficult to arrive at the truth here than in any other place I know +of. It seems as if every one’s chief occupation in life was to rake +up stories, old and new, against his neighbour; and these are swallowed +and made much of, without any allowance for the fact that +they are retailed by vicious foes. Some of the poison-mongers in +this poor settlement were well-known characters in Fiji, and only +left it when, after annexation, it became too warm for their comfort. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>I have vainly tried to impress some of my friends with a +due estimate of these men’s antecedents, but to no purpose; and I +hear their words quoted as gospel.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So great was the hubbub and perturbation from one end of “the +beach” to the other, that our proposed picnic was very near being +given up. However, wiser counsels prevailed, and angry feelings +were smoothed over the more readily, as none of the principals +were present. The party consisted of about a dozen ladies, and +half as many French officers. Three of the sisters (Sœur Marie, +Sœur St Hilaire, and Sœur Sept Martyrs) brought their little family +of about sixty Samoan girls, who executed dances for our amusement +as we sat on the pleasant turf at the spot selected for luncheon—a +grassy lawn embowered in golden alamanders and scarlet hybiscus, +and other bright blossoms, which soon adorned the tawny +heads of the scholars. The dances were monotonous and ungraceful, +as usual here, degenerating into hideous grimaces. They have +none of the attraction of the beautiful Fijian dances. Nor have +these damsels such pretty manners as the maidens in the Fijian +schools. The little Doctor was considerably astonished (though +he bore the shock philosophically) when a forward young woman +danced up to him, and snatching off his hat, transferred it to her +own well cocoa-nut-oiled head, while another patted his face with +both hands, amid applausive laughter from her companions. But +these were, happily, exceptional; and many of the girls appeared +gentle and modest, and several were very pretty, with lithe figures +and splendid eyes. But they all have beautiful dark-brown eyes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A great feed, <i>Fa-Samoa</i>, was next spread on the grass, on layers +of fresh green banana-leaves. There were roast sucking-pigs, and +pigeons stewed in <i>taro</i> leaves, or else baked on hot stones in earth +ovens; cray-fish, and prawns, and divers kinds of fish; pine-apples, +bananas, and oranges; salad of cocoa-palm, like most delicious +celery; bread-fruit prepared in various ways—boiled, baked, and +roast in wood-ashes; wonderful native puddings, made of ripe +plantains, <i>taro</i>, bread-fruit, and other materials, each beat up fine, +and baked separately, then all worked together with the creamy +juice extracted from ripe cocoa-nut, which, when heated, turns to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>oil, and is so exceedingly rich that few people can eat much of it. +However, it is really very good—at least some preparations are. +The puddings are so very oily that each portion is tied up separately +in a strip of silky young banana-leaf, heated over the fire to make +it oil-proof.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In addition to these Samoan dainties, every lady had sent a contribution +of pastry, salad, or other good things; and the excellent +<i>chef</i> of the Seignelay had done his part admirably, as usual. Nor +had that hospitable vessel neglected to send ample remembrance +from the vineyards of France, though the correct drink in the +South Seas is the inevitable cocoa-nut water,—and an excellent +one it is, cool and refreshing, provided the nut has just been +gathered. No matter how burning the sun in which it hangs, it +is always cool when newly severed from beneath the crown of shady +leaves; but after a while it becomes slightly warm and mawkish in +taste, so a true connoisseur requires his nuts to be plucked at the +last moment. Then some ingenious native splits the thick outer +husk by striking it on a sharp upright stick, and tears it all off, +except a small green stand like an inverted bowl, which supports +the nut, so that you need not empty it till you feel inclined. Then +he cuts off the top of the nut, which is lined with the thinnest +coating of white jelly. This is the pulp just beginning to form, +and in this ivory-lined cup you find about two pints of clear +sweetish water. When a row of nuts thus prepared are placed for +every guest at such a banquet as this, they suggest a row of brownish-yellow +ostrich-eggs, mounted in pale-green enamel!</p> + +<p class='c008'>An excellent dish, which I would introduce at home were it +possible, consists of young <i>taro</i> leaves, stewed in the rich oily cream +of cocoa-nut kernel, mixed with salt water, which is the only substitute +for salt. Hence cocoa-nut shells containing sea-water are +placed beside each guest, that he may therein dip his food to give +it a relish. To have done quite the correct thing, our roast sucking-pigs +should have been carved with a piece of split bamboo; +but I fear that in this matter we were guilty of innovation, though +we quite decided that bits of green banana-leaf were the nicest possible +plates.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>We were happily not expected to partake of the national cakes, +made of putrid bread-fruit. I told you how, in Fiji, vast stores +of bananas are buried in pits, and there left for months to ferment, +after which the pits are opened, and the pestilential odour that +nearly poisons the unaccustomed nose, announces a great feast of +<i>mandrai</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, bread. In Samoa, bananas abound all the year +round, so there is no need to store them. But bread-fruit is only +in season for about six months, so the surplus crop is stored in pits +lined with banana-leaves; of course it soon ferments, but in that +condition is preserved, perhaps, for years, as the older it is, the +more highly it is prized. You can perhaps imagine how fearful is +the smell of this dainty. But it is all a matter of taste—the ripe +Stilton cheese, dear to the fine old English gentleman, is, to a +Samoan, infinitely more revolting than his unfragrant cakes are +to us.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Our surroundings were beautiful. Far below us lay the blue +Pacific with its white breakers and many tinted coral-reefs, and on +every side the spurs and ravines of great green hills, all densely +clothed with richest tropical vegetation,—huge <i>eevie</i> trees, with roots +like coils of twisted snakes, and branches all bearded with long grey +lichen, falling in streamers and entangled by the twining vines; +while all manner of parasitic plants, orchids, and bird’s-nest ferns, +nestle in every crevice. We had come by a lovely path through +groves of bread-fruit and bananas, oranges, and other flowering +trees, with here and there patches of cultivation—tall sugar-canes +and maize—then tree-ferns, matted with purple convolvulus, and +with an undergrowth of soft green grass. The gleaming sunlight +found its way through that leafy canopy, and its dancing rays +checkered the cool dark shadows with flecks of golden green. It +was all soft, and lovely, and peaceful.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Ere the fragments of the feast, and the coffee-pots, and the +crockery, were repacked, the brief tropical day was done, and the +setting sun changed the broad blue waters into molten gold. Then +we retraced our way through the forest, no longer sunlit, but +sombre and very still, save for the sound of our own voices. But +due provision had been made for the darkness; and many friends +<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>and relations of the Samoan girls had come out to meet us, carrying +long torches of cocoa-palm leaves, which blazed with a clear +bright light, throwing a ruddy glow on all around, on semi-nude +dusky figures, glossy foliage, tall white palm-stems, and the great +buttressed roots of the chestnuts, and on the brown-thatched cottages, +whence groups of pleasant olive-coloured people looked out +and cried <i>Alofa!</i> to which kind greeting we responded, <i>Ola +alofa!</i><a id='r16'></a><a href='#f16' class='c017'><sup>[16]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>And so the <i>Fa-Samoa</i> picnic has gone off very pleasantly, and +we returned here to find all quiet, and to exchange the usual +kindly courtesies with the refugees, who now have settled down +for the night, as I must also do, that I may be ready to start at +daybreak to get a sketch of the town and bay.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate</span>, <i>Saturday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We returned this morning from a most interesting expedition to +Malua, the great college of the London Mission, of which Dr +Turner, senior, is the head. It is about twelve miles from here, +and Dr G. A. Turner, of the Medical Mission, most kindly volunteered +to take M. Pinart and myself in his boat. So he called for +us yesterday morning, after an early breakfast. We had a very +beautiful row along the coast, and received the most cordial of +welcomes from the Doctor, who is a fine old Scot, with a pretty, +pleasant, Highland wife. You home people can perhaps scarcely +realise what a very great pleasure it is, in a far land like this, to +find one’s self suddenly dropped into the very heart of a real +Scotch nest of the best type, and at once to be treated like a +friend. I have found such a welcome from many of my countrymen +in many lands, but nowhere more pleasantly than in the +peaceful home at Malua.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The present Mrs Turner was the widow of Mr M‘Nair, one of +the missionaries of Erromango, whose little daughter Ella, a pretty +child eight years of age, is the pet of the family.</p> + +<p class='c008'>You must not infer from my speaking of a college, that Malua +<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>bears the slightest resemblance to any collegiate institution in +Europe. It is essentially South Sea, which means that it is +suitable to the climate and the people, and it consists of a large +village of about sixty neat thatched cottages, laid out in a square, +at one side of which stands the large class-room. Each cottage is +the home of a student with his wife and family, preference in the +filling up of vacancies being given to married men, both as a means +of educating the women and children, and also because the people, +in applying for teachers, generally ask for one whose wife can teach +their wives and daughters.<a id='r17'></a><a href='#f17' class='c017'><sup>[17]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Each cottage home is embowered in pleasant greenery and bright +flowers, for each student is required to cultivate a garden sufficient +for the requirements of his family, and to raise a surplus supply, +which he may sell to provide them with clothing.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Dr Turner himself founded this college in the year 1844, when +the mission began to realise the extreme difficulty of keeping up a +supply of trained teachers, not only for two districts in the group +itself, but for the numerous other isles to which Samoan teachers +had gone forth as pioneers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Besides, those early days had passed when the foreigners had +been received as heaven-sent messengers, and hailed as the <i>Papalangi</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, +those who have rent the heavens (the name still applied +to all foreigners throughout Polynesia). At first it was +enough that a teacher had learnt the leading doctrines of Christianity +as opposed to idolatry; but now these were generally +accepted by all the people, many of whom took careful notes of +every sermon they heard, and were as keen as any old wife in +Scotland, in detecting any error in the teaching of their minister.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Small mercy would these Samoan critics have shown to such a +preacher as that young curate who, in his anxiety to improve the +story of the Prodigal Son, expatiated at such length on the +peculiar sacrifice made in the selection of <i>the</i> fatted calf, which +<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>was no common calf, but one which had evidently been a household +pet for Years, and <span class='sc'>Years</span>, and YEARS!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Samoans are natural orators, and love to illustrate their +subject with facts and comparisons from every source within their +ken. So the preacher who would rivet the attention of his hearers +needed to have studied his subject well. But at that time he had +no books to help him, no commentaries to refer to, only a translation +of three Gospels and a few Scripture lessons; and many a +teacher felt, what one expressed,—namely, that he was like a man +attempting to cut down a forest with a blunt axe; or like a foolish +man, always hammering, but never hitting the nail on the head.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The necessity of an educational institution was therefore apparent, +and the chiefs were so favourably disposed to the scheme, +that they offered to clear out of a whole village and make it over +to the mission. It was, however, considered preferable to buy a +piece of land on the coast, in a place quite apart from all other +settlements; so Malua was selected, and fifty acres of land purchased +in due form. This land was reclaimed from the bush by +the students themselves, who raise yams, <i>taro</i>, and bananas in +abundance, and have also planted several thousand bread-fruit +trees, cocoa-palms, and other fruit-bearing trees; so that this noble +institution is almost, if not altogether, self-supporting.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From its commencement to the present day, fully two thousand +teachers and native ministers have been here trained, including a +considerable number of men from far-distant Papuan Isles—from +the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, the Tokelau, and Savage Isles—all +speaking different tongues, but here meeting together to learn +what they can, and then carry the truth to their own distant isles. +Oh how these perplexed teachers must long for a new Pentecostal +gift, to enable them to address these men, each in his own +language!</p> + +<p class='c008'>It would be difficult to imagine a healthier, happier life, than +that of these students. At the first glimmer of the lovely tropical +dawn, the college bell rings to mark the hour for household prayer. +(There is probably not a house in Samoa where the family do not +assemble daily for morning and evening prayer.) Then all the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>students go out, either to work in the gardens, or to fish in the +calm lagoon. At eight the bell rings again to warn them that it +is time to bathe and breakfast, to be ready for their class at nine. +Classes and lectures continue till four, when they are again free to +go fishing, gardening, carpentering, or whatever they prefer. At +sunset each family meets for evening prayer; then the men study +by themselves till half-past nine, when the curfew bell (true +<i>couvre-feu</i>) warns them to put out their lights.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On Saturday evening there is a prayer-meeting in the institution +chapel, when the students take it in turn to deliver a short +address.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Sunday is of course observed very strictly. The day begins +with a prayer-meeting at six. At morning and afternoon service +all the neighbouring villagers assemble, and the intervening and +later hours are filled up with Sunday-school for children and Bible-classes +for adults. A simple service, with a good deal of singing, +ends the day. The Holy Communion is celebrated on the first +Sunday of each month.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The institution rules are few and simple; but for any infringement +of them the penalty is a fine, which goes towards the expense +of lights.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The course of instruction includes arithmetic, geography, natural +philosophy, writing, composition, Scripture history, and systematic +and practical theology. For lack of books, Dr Turner and his +fellow-tutor found it necessary, day by day, to write out copious +notes of their lectures, and give them to all the young men to +copy. Consequently each, on leaving the college, at the end of a +four years’ course, carried with him a large store of papers for +reference.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thanks to the diligent labours of Dr Turner and his colleagues +(who during many years devoted about five hours daily to preparing +translations for publication), the libraries of Samoa now contain +Scripture narratives and commentaries on the Old Testament,—commentaries +on the Epistles and Gospels, Elements of Astronomy, +Elements of Natural Philosophy, and various other works.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We were told various examples of the acute and pithy remarks +<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>of the native teachers, and of the excellent illustrations they sometimes +make use of. Thus a hollow professor is likened to the cast-off +shell of a lobster, so perfect in every claw and feeler, even to +the transparent covering of the eyes, that the fisher, peering into +the clear pools on the reef, mistakes it for a true and excellent +prize, and only learns his error as he grasps the worthless shell.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A strange illustration of “cutting off a right hand or a right +foot, or plucking out a right eye, that offend,” was given by a +teacher at Tutuila, who told how often he had watched the <i>mali’o</i>, +or land-crab, which by day burrows deep in the soil, but by night +hurries down to the sea to feed and drink. It is a wondrous +cleanly creature; and the Samoans declare that if on its seaward +way, as it presses through the tall grass, it should chance to come +in contact with any filth, which adheres to its legs, it will deliberately +wrench them off, and thus, self-mutilated, hobbles back to its +hole, there to hide till its legs grow again. It is positively affirmed +that this most extraordinary crab has been known deliberately to +wrench off its eight legs in succession, and then drag itself home +with the greatest difficulty by means of its nippers. I must confess +I think this crab would have shown more common-sense had +he gone to the sea or the nearest stream and washed his dirty +legs. But you must allow that the illustration was an apt one.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Those who on hearing good words hearken, and for a season +dwell on them in their hearts, but after a while return to their +careless ways, are compared to the sensitive plant, which when +touched closes its leaves and droops to the very earth, but anon +rises up again as brave as ever. A backslider is compared to a +certain fish which comes from the ocean to feed on the reef, and +which for a day or two continues silvery white, but after a while +becomes dark and unwholesome.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A little sin is as a hole in a fisherman’s basket, through which, +one by one, fall the fish for which he has toiled so eagerly. First +he loses all his little fish, and gradually, as the hole enlarges, the +large fish also escape, and at last he reaches his journey’s end with +an empty basket.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The taint of old sins, clinging to one who would fain put away +<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>evil things, is compared to a strongly scented oil, with which a +bottle-gourd has once been filled. Many and many a time must +that gourd be washed ere it will lose the scent, and be fit to hold +water for drinking.<a id='r18'></a><a href='#f18' class='c017'><sup>[18]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Still more striking is the illustration of a stately bread-fruit +tree, fair to look upon, with large glossy leaves and abundant fruit,—a +tree which in the natural course of healthy life will, when +full grown, send up from its roots strong shoots, which yield their +first crop in the second or third year, so that ere long the patriarchal +tree is the centre of a leafy fruit-bearing grove. But there +is an insignificant-looking parasitic fungus—merely a black spot +like the smut that comes on wheat—which is fatal to this fair +tree. Once it can establish itself, it spreads like a canker. The +rich green leaves turn yellow, and the disease is soon carried from +tree to tree, till the whole grove is sickly and blighted. It brings +no fruit to perfection, and ere long the trees are dead. Only one +antidote is known. It is said that there grows in the depths of +the forest a glorious lily,<a id='r19'></a><a href='#f19' class='c017'><sup>[19]</sup></a> and that if some of its bulbs are +brought and planted among the roots of the sickly trees, they +will recover. And so, when the deadly rust of sin has cankered +the heart of man, one only remedy can avail,—the life-giving +influence of <span class='sc'>Him</span> who is called the true Lily.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Again, another teacher illustrates the necessity of rooting out all +bad habits, no matter how trifling they may seem, by the example +of the wild <i>taro</i>, which sends rootlets creeping in every direction, +so that though the main root may be dug up, suckers innumerable +remain, which need only time to bring them to sturdy life.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another parable is furnished by the sugar-cane, which grows +tall and beautiful to the eye, but unless due care is taken to clear +away the decayed leaves from around its roots, worms gather there, +and pierce the cane, and rapidly multiplying within, fatten and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>flourish, so that when the husbandman gathers his cane, he finds +its precious juice all gone, and in its place a multitude of loathsome +worms. Even such, said the preacher, is the growth of little +sins.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The soul that seeks to soar heavenward is likened to the <i>piraki</i>—a +small bird, which, like the skylark, seems to lose itself in the +light. On the other hand, the snow-white tern, which, beneath its +lovely white plumage, has a dull black skin, is a meet symbol of +the hypocrite, whose fair feathers shall one day be plucked off, to +reveal the false professor.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some of the questions propounded by the students are equally +noteworthy, and few indeed suggest that confused wool-gathering +of which every school examiner in Britain can quote such strange +examples. The question asked by one young man was, “What is +meant by Satan falling from heaven?” And I could not help +thinking of the rash Sunday-school teacher who asked her class +why, in Jacob’s dream, the angels were seen descending by a +ladder. To which replied a sharp child, “Please, ’twas because +the angels were puking, and they couldna flee!” She had charge +of her mother’s poultry, which just then were moulting, so the +comparison was forcible.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Hitherto the students do not appear to have been troubled with +any speculative difficulties regarding the Mosaic account of Creation, +which, in Samoa, has reversed the European order, and has +superseded the “Darwinian” theory. According to the legend of +the isles, “In the beginning” the great god Tangaloa sent his +daughter, in the form of a bird, to visit the great waters, which +then covered the face of the earth. She found a rock rising above +the surface, and there rested a while ere returning to the heavens. +From time to time she revisited the rock, and carried thither some +earth—and then a creeping plant. After a while she returned, +and her plant had covered the earth, which gradually enlarged, as +the waters dried up. Then the plant withered and decayed, and as +it turned into slimy nastiness, a multitude of worms appeared, and +they grew fat and flourished, and in due course of time men and +women were evolved. So, you see, the Samoans had traced the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>human race back to its slimy origin, long before Dr Darwin electrified +the civilised world with his discoveries; but they have now +discarded that ignoble ancestry in favour of the Divine theory.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A Samoan teacher often illustrates his meaning by some ingenious +allusion to the old legends and mythology of the isles. In his +expositions of the Old Testament he is greatly assisted by the +number of Samoan customs, strangely analogous to those of Syria +and Palestine. Dr Turner has collected a multitude of such +identities—and also of the striking metaphors and hyperboles dear +to the Samoans. Thus, “Him that overcometh will I make a +pillar in the temple of my God,” had strange significance to those +who believed that in Pulotu, the Samoan Paradise, the temple of +their great god was supported by human pillars, who in this world +had been great chiefs, whose highest aim had been the attainment +of this honoured office.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“They took branches of palm-leaves and went forth to meet +Him, crying Hosanna,” suggests the green leaves and branches +often carried by the followers of a chief, and their songs in his +praise.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In rejoicing, David “dancing and leaping before the ark,” exactly +describes the leaping and dancing and strange capers which +even a high-caste chief will perform as he goes before a person or +thing whom he wishes to honour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Riddles, such as those propounded by Samson, are among the +commonest amusements of Samoa, and are combined with forfeits.</p> + +<p class='c008'>With reference to King David’s prayer, when “he went in and +sat before the Lord,” it is remarked that in Samoa, as in all the +Polynesian groups, it is a mark of disrespect to stand in the +presence of a superior. To sit on the ground with the head bent +down is the correct attitude of reverence and devotion.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the account of David’s covenant with Jonathan, the latter +“stripped himself of the robe that was upon him, and gave it to +David,”—an action which is the commonest expression of friendship +in the South Seas.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“He kissed him, and smelled the smell of his raiment,” is an +excellent description of the South Sea custom of greeting all +<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>friends with a prolonged and impressive sniff. They touch +noses and sniff, and then smell the hand and the garment of the +superior.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“Children by adoption” is strangely expressive in isles where +every family has adopted children. The term “brothers” includes +nephews and cousins in Samoa as in Judea. “Endless genealogies,” +and reverence for ancestry, are equally marked features in +both races.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“Take up thy bed and walk” is easily understood, where a pile +of soft mats is the bed of the highest chief.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“They cast off their clothes, and threw dust in the air” is a +Samoan expression of great anger. The expressions descriptive of +mourning for the dead in Syria might have been written in the +South Seas. “They rent their clothes and cut themselves.” +“They disfigure their faces.” Even so, those strange islanders +deliberately cut their faces with sharks’ teeth and other sharp +instruments, and bruised their heads with stones in token of grief. +“Cut off thine hair and take up a lamentation;” “Make great +wailing for the dead;” “They mourned for him thirty days;” +“They ate the offerings of the dead;” They fast “till the sun be +down,”—all exactly describe Samoan custom. Further, “They +made a very great burning for him.” (Here they made great +bonfires in honour of the dead and also burned their own flesh +with firebrands.)</p> + +<p class='c008'>The custom alluded to by the man of Mount Ephraim, who +spoke to his mother of “the shekels of silver that were taken from +thee, about which thou cursedst,” had its counterpart in heathen +Samoa, where a man would sit down and deliberately invoke +curses on an unknown thief, praying that rats might eat his fine +mats and cloth; that fire might blast his eyes and those of his +god; that the shark might devour him, or the thunder slay him; +or that at least he might be afflicted with sores and ulcers. Even +to this day you may sometimes observe a tiny square of matting, +with strips of white <i>tappa</i>, hanging from a fruit tree, or a few reeds +stuck into the ground and tied together at the top (clam-shells being +buried beneath them), or some similar mark which appeals to the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>superstitious fear of the possible thief, warning him of the curses +that will attach to whoever breaks the <i>taboo</i>. I have seen this +identical custom in many lands, from Ceylon eastward.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A suspected thief was put upon oath in presence of the chiefs. +Some venerated object was brought from the temple—a sacred +stone, a trumpet-shell, or a cocoa-nut shell, which ranked as a +divining-cup—and the accused, laying his hand on this object, +had to pray that the gods would slay him if he spoke falsely. If +he swore by a holy stone, a handful of grass was laid upon it, to +signify that the doom of the false swearer would include his household, +and that all his kindred would perish, and the grass grow on +the site of their dwelling.</p> + +<p class='c008'>With reference to war customs. “The Philistine cursed David +by his gods.” “Curse ye Meroz, ... because they came not to +the help of the Lord.” So would a company of Samoan chiefs sit +in conclave, and pray that the gods would curse those who refused +to help in war. “Let his house be made a dunghill.” “They +shall bring out the bones out of their graves.” “Fell every good +tree, and stop all wells of water.” All these were literal features +in Samoan warfare. “Lay ye the heads in two heaps at the entering +in of the gate,” was also quite a natural direction. The description +of the songs of the Jewish women in honour of the victor, +when “the women answered one another as they played, and said,</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Saul hath slain his thousands,</div> + <div class='line'>And David his ten thousands,”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c019'>might have been written of Samoan women describing the deeds +of their warriors, and thereby often stirring up bitter anger and +jealousies.</p> + +<p class='c008'>With regard to weapons, the “sling and stone,” the “smooth +stone of the brook,” the “arrows, ... the poison whereof +drinketh up my spirit,” exactly describe those of the Pacific; +while the description of Saul encamped under a tree, “having +his spear in his hand,” is a true picture of any fine old South +Sea chief. Further, it is said, “The trumpeters stood by the +king;” and though the trumpets of the Pacific are only perforated +shells, the blast blown through them in honour of a chief, or to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>rally warriors in time of war, is sufficiently piercing to rouse the +dead.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The crown and the bracelet worn by King Saul in battle seem +most natural adornments to these chiefs, whose bracelets and crowns +of nautilus shell attracted our admiration at their council of war. +As our Lord spoke of unclean spirits walking through dry places, +seeking rest, so these islanders believe that unquiet spirits roam at +large in the forest, and they propitiate them by offerings of food.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the New Hebrides, Dr Turner met with a curious illustration +of that strange history of Elisha giving his staff to Gehazi, +and bidding him lay it on the face of the sick child. The staff of +the New Hebrides was a polished stick of black iron-wood, which +was the representative of a god, whose ministering priest was one +of the disease-makers. When summoned to attend a case of sickness, +this sacred staff was carried to the sick man’s room, and the +priest, leaning upon it, pronounced certain charmed words, after +which recovery was considered certain.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In Samoa and other groups, all disease was supposed to be the +work of malignant wizards, therefore to them the friends of the +sick applied for healing, or at least for counsel, even as Ahaziah +sent his messengers to the priests of the god of Ekron to learn +whether he would recover of his sickness.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For the healing of the sick, as well as conferring honour and +personal comfort, “anointing with oil” was as familiar in Judea +as in Samoa. “Thou anointest my head with oil,” might be said +by any honoured guest in these isles; while “oil to make him of +a cheerful countenance” was equally requisite. St James’s directions +for the healing of the sick by the prayers of the Church +elders, and anointing with oil, literally describe the course pursued +in various parts of the Pacific—as, for instance, in the Tokelau +isles, where the friends of a sick man send for the priest of the +disease-making god, who comes, and dipping his hand in oil, passes +it gently over the sufferer, offering prayers for his recovery. An +important part of the ceremony, however, not prescribed by St +James, is the offering of fine mats to the priest.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These are but a few of the multitude of illustrations collected +<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>by Dr Turner.<a id='r20'></a><a href='#f20' class='c017'><sup>[20]</sup></a> There are many more, such as the occasional +custom of embalming the dead, the compulsory observance of the +rite of circumcision, contempt for nations who neglect it, marriage +customs, the punishment of death for adultery, the law of divorce; +the singularly patriarchal law which obliged each bride to be +accompanied by one or more handmaids, taken from among her +near relations, and who filled the place of secondary wives—so that +a chief who owned three or four wives, possessed such a large and +troublesome harem, that the majority were generally allowed to +return to their parents; and lastly, the custom that a widow must +become the wife of her deceased husband’s brother, or, failing him, +of his nearest male relative.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The plurality of wives appears, singularly enough, to have been +little more than a business transaction, in which the principal had +very small interest. The marriages of a high chief were simply so +many speculations in fine mats, which the bride brought as her +dower, and which the bridegroom was expected to hand over to +his principal supporters, or head men, who had arranged the match, +and provided the feast. These men were the bankers of the tribe +in whose hands its property accumulated; and of course they lost +no means of adding to it, as well as of strengthening clan connections +by multiplying marriages. Hence this question formed one +of the chief difficulties of the early missionaries.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This very practical reason for polygamy also accounted in a +great measure for the curious custom of adopting the children of +living parents, which prevailed to so extraordinary an extent. It +appears that the child was really little more than an excuse for a +constant exchange of property, its true parents constantly sending +gifts of <i>tonga</i>—that is, native property—to the adoptive parents; +while these as often sent back goodwill-offerings of <i>oloa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, +foreign goods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When the students are considered sufficiently advanced, they +are occasionally sent to help the teacher of one of the neighbouring +villages, and practise the art of preaching, ere being appointed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>to the sole charge of a congregation. Of course only the well-tried +men are promoted to the rank of native minister.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The scale of ecclesiastical pay is certainly not such as to induce +men to enter the service of the Church for filthy lucre’s sake. A +house, a certain amount of food, and a small annual contribution +in kind, the value of which in no case exceeds £10, and is generally +much less, is certainly not an undue share of loaves and +fishes, especially as no agent of the mission is allowed to engage +in any manner of trade, or other secular occupation, beyond the +cultivation of his own garden. The annual contribution of his +parishioners consists probably of half-a-dozen mats, value from 2s. +to 6s.; 30 to 40 yards of calico, value 6d. a yard; some pieces of +native cloth, worth 1s. each; a larger piece of <i>tappa</i>, for a curtain; +a shirt, a fowl, a duck, two pigs, and a few nondescript coins +of various nations and small value.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have heard so many unfair and untrue insinuations made +by white traders, and quoted without further inquiry by many +travellers, to the effect that many missionaries are in reality grasping +and avaricious traders, that it may be as well to mention that +such false accusations are invariably made by men who find their +unjust gains somewhat lessened by the presence of men whose +standard of barter is more honourable. If a native comes to work +for a missionary, or brings him vegetables or fish for sale, and +receives in payment a larger piece of cloth, or a knife—both of +better quality than he would receive from the trader—he naturally +learns something of the fair value of his work, or his goods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Moreover, one of the first proofs of vitality given by these +island churches (as in every healthy branch of the Christian +Church) has always been a readiness to contribute, not only to the +general expenses of the mission in their own country, but also to +sending forth teachers to the isles which are still steeped in heathenism. +As it has been most convenient to make these payments +in kind, each district has collected its own offerings, chiefly in +the form of measures of cocoa-nut oil; and these contributions +have been annually conveyed to the home market by the mission-ship +on her return cruise. Hence the nickname of “Palm-oil +<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>Ship,” so derisively bestowed by men whose very limited notions +of their own religious duties certainly do not include any obligation +to support foreign missions.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another source of equally uncalled-for fault-finding has been +the receiving of payment for copies of the Bible and other books, +as if the mission, having gone to enormous expense in printing +successive editions, each of several thousand copies (and the publication +of works in an unknown tongue is at all times a troublesome +matter), were to blame in offering these for sale, at prices +varying from 1s. to 2s. a volume—that is to say, little, if at all, in +excess of cost price. A copy of every book published in the +Samoan language is given gratis to each student, and to every +agent of the mission. How eagerly the precious books have been +bought up by other natives, is shown by the fact of their having +voluntarily paid several thousand pounds to acquire copies for +themselves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the present moment the students at the college number +eighty—all fine young men; of these forty-two are married, and +occupy the pretty cosy cottages which form this South Sea college. +There are also about twenty big boys, and a number of small ones, +all receiving a most careful education. These are gathered from +every island in the group, and represent many of the principal +families, who support the different parties now striving for supremacy. +But this is neutral ground, respected by all parties, so politics +are excluded as far as is possible.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After luncheon, all these assembled to meet us in the large +native church—a fine building, of white coral-lime, rounded at the +ends like a Tongan house, and with a deep thatch roof. I never +saw a finer lot of men and women, with keen intelligent faces. +I fear their verdict on the foreign lady must have been very different; +for, what with my early sketching expedition on foot, and +then the long twelve miles in the boat, in glaring light from sun +and sea, I literally could scarcely keep my eyes open; and having +foolishly striven to do so, after luncheon (when I might have +obtained the blessed “forty winks” in private), I paid the penalty +when we reached the cool dark church, and had the humiliating +<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>consciousness that the struggle was becoming vainer and more vain, +till at length the angel of sleep triumphed, and held me captive, +while M. Pinart put the students through a slight examination, +simply as a matter of form.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Afterwards we wandered about the settlement, which is in every +respect a model one, and then we enjoyed a pleasant evening at the +calm peaceful mission-house, which stands on a grassy headland, +palm-fringed, the sea washing three sides of the lawn. It is quite +an idyllic home,—a true earthly paradise, where the useful and +loving life glides on day by day, undisturbed by the wars and +rumours of war on every side. But the peace and the home have +alike been purchased by many a year of hard ungrudging toil in +the heat and burden of the day.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For Dr Turner began his mission career in stormy times. Soon +after the Rev. John Williams had been treacherously murdered at +Eromanga in the New Hebrides, in November 1839, the London +Mission Society determined to make a renewed effort for the conversion +of its fierce inveterate cannibals. Mr and Mrs Turner +were accordingly sent on this most dangerous mission. They were +joined in Samoa by Mr and Mrs Nisbet, and together proceeded +to the New Hebrides.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The day before Mr Williams’s death, he had succeeded in landing +three Samoan teachers as pioneers, on the isle of Tanna, twenty +miles from Eromanga. To this isle the missionaries now sailed—not +without grave doubts whether they should find the teachers +alive. (It was now June 1842.) They found them safe, but +their work had made small progress. The people were continually +at war, and most unconscionable thieves. They had, however, +two good points—infanticide was not common, and they were +careful of their own sick, so far as they knew how. But wilder +and more savage surroundings could scarcely be conceived than +those in which the Turners and Nisbets found themselves left, +when the little vessel which had brought them from Samoa had +sailed away.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They soon discovered one serious difference between the New +Hebrides and the isles of the Eastern Pacific. In the latter, one +<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>language is understood throughout a whole group, with only such +variations as occur between Yorkshire and Somerset. But in the +New Hebrides, each island speaks a totally different dialect, and +though within sight one of another (as Fortuna, Aneiteum, Tanna, +and Eromanga) they cannot understand one another; and the +books printed for one would be totally useless for the next. Even +on the same island the different tribes are so isolated by war and +jealousies that their language remains as totally distinct as that of +the Celts and Saxons in Scotland or Wales.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This circumstance, added to the intense jealousies of the tribes, +made it a matter of extreme difficulty, as well as danger, to attempt +visiting different villages, in which endeavour Mr Turner and Mr +Nisbet nevertheless persevered, always at the risk of their lives, +being inspired with an intense belief in the reality of their Lord’s +command (to go into <i>all</i> the world and preach to <i>all</i> His human +creatures), and also in His protecting care.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So when a vessel touched the isle, and offered to carry them all +away, the mission band refused to desert their post, and for seven +months contrived to maintain their ground. But it was a constant +struggle and never-ceasing danger. During five months out of the +seven the tribes were at war, and at last the whole powerful body +of sacred medicine-men—the rain-makers and thunder-makers, and +especially the disease-makers—were filled with such jealousy of the +foreigners who gave away medicines, and so diminished <i>their</i> gains, +that they stirred up the islanders generally to believe that the +dysentery, coughs, and influenza which had recently, for the first +time, appeared in the group, were all produced by the white men; +and, strangely enough, their assertion seemed confirmed by the fact +that the tribe among whom the missionaries were living, actually +escaped these illnesses.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So about two thousand wild savages united for a more determined +onslaught on this friendly tribe; and at last, seeing matters +were desperate, the little band of Christians, nineteen in all, were +compelled to fly for their lives. They accordingly embarked at +dead of night in an open boat and a canoe, hoping to reach the +Isle Aneiteum, preferring to face the certain hardships of such a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>voyage to the worse certainty of being consigned to cannibal ovens. +The sea was, however, wild and tempestuous; and after vainly +struggling for several hours to make head against it, they were +compelled to return to land, and happily re-entered their own +house before any of the natives had discovered their flight. +Matters now seemed desperate; but, as the old proverb says, +“Man’s extremity is God’s opportunity.” When the villages were +blazing on every side of them, and their last hours seemed at hand, +a sail hove in sight. It proved to be The Highlander (name of +good omen), a whaler, whose captain, knowing that the Turners +and Nisbets had gone to Tanna, thought he would just run in and +see if they were still alive. The presence of the foreign ship +stayed the fighting for the moment, and enabled the mission party +very quietly to make their preparations for embarking. This was +on Saturday. On Sunday, they as usual abstained from any +manner of work, and held public worship. Soon after midnight +they silently stole forth, and though their chapel and outhouses, +and even the boat-shed, were crowded with people from the +neighbouring villages, whose homes had been burnt by the enemy, +not one awoke till almost all the party were safely on board with +their baggage. So this was accomplished without the dreaded +opposition. At last some men awoke, and then messengers flew +through the district to summon the chiefs. Mr Turner asked them +all to come on board to bid him farewell. Eleven did so, and +expressed their grief at all that had occurred; one fine old chief +wept like a child, but none ventured to bid the white men stay. +In truth, they said that they expected themselves to be exterminated +as soon as the vessel had departed.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Seeing no possibility of establishing a mission on any of the +neighbouring isles, Mr Turner induced Captain Lucas to convey +the whole party to Samoa—a journey which was not without +danger, owing to baffling winds and the lack of any reliable chart. +They narrowly escaped coming to grief as they passed through +the Fiji group, where the vessel was becalmed and quickly surrounded +by large war canoes, each manned by from fifty to a +hundred most formidable, armed savages. Providentially a light +<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>breeze sprang up and carried them away from that danger; and +so in due time they reached Apia, where they found welcome and +much needed rest and comfort.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Soon after, Mr Turner was appointed to the charge of a district +in Samoa, which gave him the care of sixteen villages; but ere +long the pressing need of teachers led to the commencement of the +training college, where, with the exception of occasional voyages to +the New Hebrides and other groups, he and his successive colleagues +have ever since found abundant work, in training native +evangelists, translating valuable books, and, so far as lay in their +power (not having received a regular medical training), in ministering +to the temporal needs of the people, administering such +medicines as they could procure, and even, under pressure of +necessity, attending to surgical cases. Their chief care, however, +was to vaccinate every man, woman, and child within reach, +a precaution to which may be attributed the happy circumstance +that there has never been a case of smallpox in Samoa, though it +is visited by so many foreign ships. In many other groups, where +some chance vessel has touched, the deadly infection has been left, +and in some cases about a third of the population has died.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Dr Turner observed that the people of Tanna are in mortal +dread of a form of witchcraft precisely similar to that so commonly +practised in Fiji in its heathen days (and perhaps, <i>sub rosa</i>, +even now; for we noticed the extreme care with which some of +our followers occasionally collected and buried every scrap of food +which they, or we, had touched).</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Fijians believed that if they could get a fragment of the +hair or food of an enemy, or a small bit of any garment he had +worn, the heathen priest could therewith work a spell which should +cause death within four days. The priest kindled a fire and performed +incantations over these relics, approaching the spot only on +his hands and knees.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The wizard of Tanna is a professional disease-maker. He prowls +about, continually seeking for refuse of any sort which he can turn +to account. An old banana-skin, a bit of a cocoa-nut, the parings +of a yam, will answer his purpose. He wraps it in a leaf, that no +<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>one may know exactly what he has found. He ties the parcel +round his neck, and stalks about ostentatiously through the villages. +In the evening he scrapes some bark off a certain tree, +mixes it with the rubbish he has found, rolls it all together in a +leaf, like a very long cigar, and lays it close to the fire, so that one +end may gradually smoulder. As it burns, the true owner becomes +ill; and as the pain increases, he calls to his friends, who immediately +recognise the work of the disease-maker, and blow loud +blasts on the trumpet-shell, which can be heard at a distance of +two or three miles. This is a pledge that if he will stop burning +the rubbish, they will bring him offerings of their best mats, +pigs, &c.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The wizard, hearing the blast, draws away the green cigar, and +waits impatiently to see what gift his dupes will bring in the +morning. They firmly believe that if the cigar is allowed to burn +to the end, the victim must die. Should the pain return, the +friends suppose the wizard is dissatisfied with his gifts, and they +blow louder than before, making night hideous with their dismal +noise, and load the disease-maker with presents, all of which he of +course readily accepts. Should the man die, the friends merely +suppose they failed to propitiate the wretch. These wizards were +the worst foes of the mission party, and were for ever trying to +work spells for their destruction, though happily without effect.</p> + +<p class='c008'>You can readily understand how a people deeply imbued with +the faith in this possibility of working mischief, were always +ready to attribute to the missionaries those epidemics of illness, +formerly unknown, which so strangely seem to have broken +out in almost every group soon after the arrival of white men—generally +influenza, measles, smallpox, or dysentery, each of which +has invariably proved a deadly pestilence when first attacking +these races.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have just told you how this belief resulted in the mission +being driven from Tanna. About the same time, dysentery appeared +in the neighbouring isle of Fotuna, and led to the massacre +of the Samoan teachers who had been left there by Mr Williams. +It also ravaged Eromanga, carrying off one-third of the population, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>who believed that the scourge had been introduced by some +hatchets which they had received as barter from a sandal-wood +ship, and accordingly they threw them all away. On several other +islands the teachers were either murdered or compelled to flee for +their lives, solely on this account.</p> + +<p class='c008'>What makes this more remarkable is, that these illnesses often +followed the visit of a ship which itself had a perfectly clean bill +of health; and in many cases the missionaries and other good +authorities recorded that they had no reason to believe that any +white man had been to blame for the introduction of new diseases.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Therefore the poor islanders naturally concluded that these +scourges were introduced by malicious foreign gods; so when a +Samoan family assembled for their evening meal, the head of the +house, ere tasting his bowl of <i>kava</i>, poured a little on the ground +as a drink-offering to the gods; and every voice was hushed while +he prayed that the gods of Samoa would give increase and prosperity +to the household and all pertaining to it; that the war-gods +would give strength to the people; but to such foreign gods as +might have arrived in Tongan canoes or great ships, he said—“Here +is <i>kava</i> for you, O sailing gods; do not come ashore at this +place, but be pleased to remain on the ocean, and go to some other +land!”</p> + +<p class='c008'>Sometimes the worshippers preferred to leave this matter in the +care of their own protecting gods. In that case they kindled a +blazing fire just before the evening meal, and offered its light to +the king of gods, and all his fellow-deities, beseeching them to +keep away from Samoa all sailing gods, lest they should come and +cause disease and death.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Dr Turner takes high rank among the apostles of the Pacific. +Few men living know better, from their own experience, how marvellous +has been the change wrought in the last forty years, by +which barbarous cannibals have been transformed into peaceful +Christians.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For instance, when he first visited the Isle of Niuē, or Savage +Island (which lies as the centre of a triangle formed by Tonga, +Samoa, and the Hervey Isles), its people were in much the same +<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>condition as Captain Cook found them, when they rushed on his +men “like savage boars,” which was their invariable reception of +all outsiders—not of white men only (though these were invariably +repulsed), but also of men whose canoes chanced to drift +from Tonga or Samoa, or even of their own countrymen who had +left the island and returned. All such were invariably killed, +chiefly from a dread lest they should introduce foreign diseases. +So great was this fear, that even when they did venture to begin +trading, they would not use anything obtained from ships till it +had been hung in quarantine in the bush for weeks.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For sixty years after Captain Cook’s visit, these 4000 very +exclusive savages adhered to their determination that no stranger +should ever live on their isle. At the end of that time they +agreed to allow Samoan teachers to settle among them; and so +successful has been the work of these men, that the island is now +peopled with model Christians. No more wars, no fightings, no +thefts, but a peaceful and happy community (sufficiently) “clothed +and in their right mind;” living in good houses of the Samoan +type, instead of filthy huts; assembling for school and worship in +large suitable buildings, and with abundant leisure to cultivate the +soil and prepare the arrowroot and other produce, with which to +purchase not only calico, hatchets, knives, &c., but also copies +of the Scriptures, hymns, and commentaries, translated into the +Savage Island dialect by the Samoan teachers, and printed at +Apia.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Like the Tongans, these very sensible savages have discovered a +means of making criminals really useful to the community. For +theft and all other offences, the chief sentences the offender to +make so many fathoms of road of neatly laid blocks of coral, filled +in with small stones, and covered with a level layer of earth. +Thus a good road, shaded by a double row of cocoa-palms, now +encircles the isle—a circuit of perhaps fifty miles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Do you think that Captain Cook would now recognise his “wild +boars”?</p> + +<p class='c008'>In like manner, when Dr Turner first visited the Loyalty Isles, +of which New Caledonia is the principal isle, he found hideous +<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>cannibals, without a rag of clothing, but whitewashed from head to +foot to improve their beauty. This was the height of fashion on +Maré. On his return in 1859, he found that perhaps one side of +an island had adopted Christianity, and that clean, decently clad +congregations of men and women assembled on the shore to meet +him, eager that he should hear them read the Scriptures from books +printed in their own dialect,—a strange contrast to the other side +of the same isle, still plunged in heathen degradation, engaged in +ceaseless war, feasting on the bodies of the slain, and occasionally +capturing a Christian teacher, whose zeal led him to adventure +within their reach.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Much the same state of things prevailed on some of the New +Hebrides, where the isle of Aneiteum was the most hopeful centre +of operations, its population of upwards of 3000 persons having all +professedly become Christians, and 300 being actually church +members. Fifty-six different villages had built schools for their +own use, and eleven had chapels. Sixty of the more advanced +natives ranked as teachers, and several had gone to work on the +hostile isles around. On these, also, two white missionaries had +established themselves, though still enduring a hard struggle, and +making very little way apparently.</p> + +<p class='c008'>More recent incidents have proved how slow and difficult has +been their work.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On the voyage I speak of, the converts presented Dr Turner +with upwards of a hundred of their discarded idols—storm-gods +and rain-gods, gods of war and of sickness, gods of the land and of +the sea, of the fruits of the earth and of all living things,—a +strange motley collection of poor dishonoured images, each of +which had been an object of awe through many a dark year, now +all huddled together in the hold of the foreign ship.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Amongst the simpler idols of Samoa were a number of smooth +water-worn stones, more or less egg-shaped—precisely similar to +those still reverenced in Indian temples, and which were so long +held in honour in the British Isles.<a id='r21'></a><a href='#f21' class='c017'><sup>[21]</sup></a> One of these was the Samoan +<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>rain-god, who was instructed in his duties by a priest, and in +times of drought was carried to the stream and therein bathed. +But should rain fall in excess, the poor god was popped into the +fire, to make him personally aware that the land needed a drying.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On the same principle the rain-making priests in New Caledonia +do or did dig up a dead body, and, having carried the bones to a +cave, there fastened them together to form a complete skeleton, +which they hung up, and poured water over it, supposing that the +spirit of the dead would take the hint and cause the clouds to +pour rain on the thirsty land. These priests were so far true to +their pretensions that they remained in the cave fasting till rain +did fall, and some actually died at their post. When fine weather +was required, they kindled a fire beneath the skeleton and let it +burn.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Similar as were these rain-making customs, there does not appear +to have been any link between the Samoans and these Loyalty +Islanders, the latter being about as debased a race of cannibals as +could well be imagined,—men who, not content with eating the +bodies of foes slain in battle, tied up their captives to trees, and +prepared the ovens for their reception before their very eyes. The +women followed their lords to battle, to be in readiness to seize +the falling foe and carry his body to the rear and prepare it for +the feast. They themselves were liable to be eaten if captured; +and the youngest children of the tribe shared the horrid meal. On +ordinary occasions the Loyalty Islanders had only one meal a day. +The luxury of <i>kava</i> was unknown to them, but they indulged in +copious draughts of sea-water. They wore no apology for clothes. +A chief might marry thirty wives, no matter how closely related to +him by ties of blood. The Samoans, on the contrary, rigorously +prohibited the marriage of any persons nearly related, declaring +that such unions called down the wrath of the gods. The gods +of the New Caledonians were the ancestral spirits, and their +treasured relics were the finger and toe nails of their friends. In +burying the dead the head was left above ground; and on the +tenth day it was twisted off by the mourning relatives, who preserved +the skull, extracting the teeth as separate treasures. The +<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>teeth of old women, scattered over a yam plantation, were supposed +to secure a good crop; and for the same reason the skulls of all +the old village crones were stuck on poles near the gardens.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I wonder if all these distinctions between the manners and customs +of the various groups, convey to your untravelled mind one-thousandth +part of the interest they possess to us, who have +actually lived among so many different races. I fear it is impossible +that they should. But you can well understand the thankfulness +of such men as Dr Turner and his colleagues, in watching +the gradual change from year to year, as the Gospel of mercy takes +root in such unpromising soil; and they themselves find loving +welcome from the very men who in past years thirsted for their +blood, and shed that of so many fellow-workers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Fain would we have lingered at peaceful Malua, and listened to +stories of the South Seas from the lips of those who have themselves +been actors in so many thrilling scenes, extending from the +far west to this centre. But it was necessary to return to Apia +this morning, so we regretfully bade farewell to these kind new +friends, who loaded us with gifts of strange things, brought from +many isles, and sped us on our way.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here we found all quiet. The Seignelay has had a long day of +entertaining. First the Sisters went on board, with their sixty +children, who were duly impressed with the wonders of the great +ship; afterwards all the young men from the Catholic College had +their turn.</p> + +<p class='c008'>M. de Gironde has just been here, to tell me the vessel sails for +Tahiti on Monday. He brings the kindest letters and messages +from the captain and all the party, expressive of their true wish +that I should proceed with them on the “Tour de la Mission.” +Indeed the state of affairs here is not such as to invite a prolonged +stay. And there might be a detention of months among these +discordant elements, ere I found an opportunity to return to Fiji.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER IX.<br> <span class='c009'>A SKETCH OF THE SAMOAN MISSION—THE REV. JOHN WILLIAMS DETERMINES TO VISIT THE NAVIGATOR’S ISLES—PRELIMINARY WORK IN THE HERVEY GROUP—DISCOVERY OF RAROTONGA—CONVERSION OF ITS PEOPLE—THEY HELP WILLIAMS TO BUILD A SHIP WHICH SHALL CONVEY HIM TO SAMOA—VISIT TONGA—PROCEED TO SAMOA—OVERTHROW OF IDOLATRY—REVERENCE FOR OLD MATS—WILLIAMS’S GRAVE AT APIA.</span></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>When I first landed in Fiji in 1875, nothing amazed me so +much as the wonderful work which has there been done by the +Wesleyan Mission—a work of which the outside world literally +knew nothing. Now that my wanderings have led me further +east, I see that different regiments of the great Christian army +have each been doing their part in forwarding their Master’s cause; +and so strangely interesting are many details of their work, which +I have now heard for the first time, that I think I cannot do +better than note them down, feeling quite convinced that you will +find them as new and as full of interest as I myself have done.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The extraordinary success of the South Sea missions is certainly +to be attributed in a great measure to that triumph of common-sense +which made the various societies agree, almost at the outset, +in a great measure to divide the field of labour, and so endeavour +to avoid distracting the minds of the simple islanders, by allowing +them to perceive that their teachers could possibly disagree among +themselves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the North Pacific some good working power has doubtless +been lost by the establishment in the Sandwich Isles of both an +English Episcopal Mission and American Congregationalists. The +Dowager Queen Emma is a stanch adherent of the English Church, +as was also her husband, who himself translated the prayer-book +into the Hawaiian language. But the majority of the people there +(as throughout Polynesia) find the less ceremonious forms of religious +observance better adapted to their needs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So the American Board of Foreign Missions, which commenced +its work in 1820, met with such success, that within half a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>century the whole group had been evangelised, and a self-supporting +native Church, with native pastors, established. It is now +extending its operations among the islands in the north-western +part of the Pacific, between the equator and Japan. These are +collectively described as Micronesia, on account of their extremely +small size, the majority being simply low atolls, few of which rise +more than ten feet above the level of the ocean.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The south-western isles of the Pacific, which come under the +general name of Melanesia, are chiefly in the hands of the English +Church Societies, and of the Presbyterian Mission.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The countless large groups which occupy the south-east of the +ocean, and are generally described as Polynesia, have been almost +entirely Christianised by the London and Wesleyan Missions.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Shortly after Captain Cook’s discoveries had first drawn attention +to the existence of these unexplored regions, the London Mission, +which includes men of all the evangelical sects, began its +work by sending men to the Marquesas, the Society Isles (Tahiti +and Raiatea), and to Tonga.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of the sad fate which befell the first Tongan missionaries, I have +already spoken. Three were murdered, and the rest compelled to +fly for their lives. Some years later, the Wesleyan Mission ventured +to reoccupy the field, when they found the people somewhat +penitent. They were able to establish themselves under the protection +of some friendly chiefs, and ere long had the satisfaction of +knowing that Christianity was striking firm deep roots in the soil +which at first seemed so unpromising.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Truly marvellous has been the growth of the tree thus watered +by the blood of those brave pioneers. Eighty years have elapsed +since their martyrdom, at which time there was not one isle in the +whole Pacific which was not steeped in debasing heathenism and +cruel wars. Now, throughout Polynesia, idolatry is a thing of the +past; none of the present generation have even seen the wood and +stone gods of their fathers: infanticide and murder are probably less +common than in Europe, and a reverent obedience to all Christian +precepts a good deal more apparent than in civilised countries. On +upwards of 300 isles (where in the early half of this century no boat +<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>could have touched without imminent danger), Christianity of a +really practical sort now reigns. Upwards of a quarter of a million +persons show their faith in its requirements by utterly changed +lives, and at least 60,000 of these are regular communicants. The +casual traveller, who, a few years ago, would almost inevitably +have been killed had he ventured to land, is now chiefly in danger +of asserting that the natives have been trained to be religious overmuch,—their +“innocent nature” cramped; and so the chances are, +that without intending to do mischief, he throws his influence of +the moment into the opposite scale, and is perhaps the source of +more evil than he dreams of.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Having not only succeeded in transforming the savage Tongans +into earnest Christians, but also into most zealous and capable +teachers, the Wesleyan missionaries next made their way to Fiji, +where their success was still more wonderful, and a race of most +cruel cannibals has become one of the gentlest on earth.<a id='r22'></a><a href='#f22' class='c017'><sup>[22]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>About the same time the Samoan Isles, which were then an almost +unknown group, were sought out by the Rev. John Williams +of the London Mission, one of the boldest and most successful of +the early pioneers. He began his work at Raiatea, in the year +1817, with such success, that when, in 1821, an opportunity presented +itself of visiting the Hervey Isles (of which nothing was +known, except that such a group existed), several converts from +Raiatea volunteered to go there as pioneers. They were accordingly +landed on the isle of Aitutaki,<a id='r23'></a><a href='#f23' class='c017'><sup>[23]</sup></a> the very name of which +might have suggested encouragement. There they were favourably +received by Tamatoa, the chief, and his people. Nevertheless, as +it was well known that these were all cannibals, and constantly at +war one with another, it was not without deep anxiety that Mr +Williams left the teachers to begin the mission. When, however, +in the following year, he returned to the group, in company with +Mr Bourne, they were received with the glad tidings that the +people of Aitutaki had all, without exception, abjured idolatry, +burnt their <i>marais</i>, and begun to worship the Saviour; that they +<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>had built a large church, and rigidly hallowed the Sabbath. On +the following day nearly 2000 of these now tamed savages assembled +on the shore, and all knelt together in solemn prayer to +the Christian’s God; after which they brought thirty of their +discarded idols, and carried them on board the mission-ship, that +the men of other isles, beholding them, might know that they were +no gods, but only worthless images, and so might be led to discard +their own.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This was a satisfactory beginning for one year’s work; and a +great promise for the future lay in the fact that among the converts +were six natives from the then unknown isle of Rarotonga, +who earnestly prayed that teachers might be sent to their brethren, +and that they themselves might be allowed to accompany them. +The men of Aitutaki declared the Rarotongans to be most ferocious +cannibals, and horribly treacherous, and were sorely alarmed for +the safety of any teachers who should venture among them. +Nevertheless it was agreed that the opportunity was one not to +be lost. Accordingly the mission-ship sailed in search of Rarotonga. +For eight days they sought in vain, but failed to discover +it.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At last they found themselves off an isle which proved to be +Mangaia. There three brave Tahitian teachers, two of whom were +accompanied by their wives, volunteered to land and endeavour to +establish a footing among the people. These, however, proved +such unmitigated savages that the attempt was frustrated. Though +the chiefs had invited the teachers to land, their doing so was the +signal for brutal ill-treatment of both men and women. All their +little property was at once stolen, and they only escaped with their +lives by swimming back to the ship through the surf.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A few months later another attempt was made to commence a +mission in the Hervey Isles. Once more the mission-ship returned +to Mangaia, and two unmarried teachers, Davida and Tiere, leaped +into the sea and swam to the shore, taking nothing with them +but the cloth they wore, and a portion of the New Testament in +Tahitian, which was carefully wrapped up and tied on their heads. +Crowds had assembled on the shore, and one warrior rushed at +<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>them with a long spear, but the lunge was arrested by the king +himself, who received them kindly, and at once led them to his +own seaside temple, in order that the people might consider their +persons sacred. This they were inclined to do; for soon after +their cruel treatment of the first teachers, a terrible epidemic had +broken out in the isle, which had carried off young and old, chiefs +and peasants. Supposing this to be a punishment sent by the God +of those strangers, they collected all the property they had stolen +from them, the calico dresses torn off the women, and the strips +into which they had torn the Bibles to make ornaments for their +hair at the midnight dances in honour of the god Tane. All these +things they threw into a chasm in the mountains into which they +were in the habit of casting their dead, and made solemn vows to +the unknown God that if His servants returned to their isle they +should be well cared for. So now they prepared a feast for the +two bold swimmers, and allowed them to settle among them in +peace.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Meanwhile Mr Williams had continued the search for Rarotonga, +and had touched at the isles of Atiu, Mauke, and Mitiaro. +The story of that voyage is more thrilling than any romance. It +was as if a flash of electric light had suddenly illumined the thick +darkness. What that darkness was you may infer from the fact +that only four years previously all these islands had been decimated +by war and cannibalism. The fierce people of Mitiaro had slain +and eaten several canoe-loads of the men of Atiu, whose kinsfolk, +determined to avenge them, came over in force, and by treachery +gained access to the stronghold of the men of Mitiaro. A fearful +massacre ensued, and to this day the oven is shown into which men +and women and helpless infants were thrown alive to be cooked; +the only mercy shown was when the brains of the children were +dashed on the stones, and so they were killed ere being cast into +the oven. When the conquerors had eaten their fill, they packed +basketfuls of the savoury meat to regale their wives and families +at Atiu; but ere they left the blood-stained isle they practised one +more barbarity common to heathen warfare. In dragging the great +double canoes over the sharp coral, it is usual to lay down soft +<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>banana stumps to act as rollers, and so protect the canoes from +injury. The rollers now used were living naked men and women, +tied together hand and foot, and over their writhing bodies were +the heavy canoes drawn in triumph.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The same terrible fate had overtaken the neighbouring isle of +Mauke, when the arrival of the mission-ship brought to these isles +the blessed Gospel of peace. The first man to step on board at +Atiu was the terrible chief, Romatane, who had led the expeditions +against Mitiaro and Mauke: he was a man of strikingly commanding +aspect, with beautiful long black hair. He was eagerly welcomed +by the chief of Aitutaki, who had already destroyed his +idols and accepted the new faith; and so earnestly did this zealous +convert plead all through the long night with his brother chief, +that, ere the morrow dawned, the truth of his words seemed borne +in upon the mind of Romatane, and he vowed that never again +would he worship any God save Jehovah. He returned ashore to +announce this decision to his people, and his intention of immediately +destroying his idols and their temples. Then returning on +board, he agreed to direct the course of the vessel to the then +unknown isles of Mitiaro and Mauke, which hitherto he had +visited only with fire and sword. Now it was his voice that +proclaimed the truths he had just learned, and that exhorted the +people to destroy all their idols and build a house for the worship +of the true God. At each isle he himself escorted the Tahitian +teachers and their wives to the house of the principal chief, and +charged him to care for them and hearken to their instructions.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thus in one short day was this mighty revolution wrought in +three isles, which had never before even seen a foreign ship. Romatane +and his brother Mana proved themselves true to their first +convictions; and among their stanch fellow-workers was one who, +to this day, tells how, at the massacre of his kinsfolk on Mauke, +when he was carried away captive, he was laid on the baskets containing +the baked flesh of his uncles and fellow-countrymen, and +narrowly escaped being himself consigned to the oven.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The mission work progressed without a drawback. The people, +almost without demur, determined to destroy the idols they had +<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>so long revered. Many were rescued as museum curiosities, and +the mission-ship sailed onward with those grotesque monsters +hanging from her yard-arms, and otherwise displayed as trophies, +leaving in their stead earnest converts, from Raiatea and Tahiti, +to instruct these willing hearers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When they had almost given up in despair their search for +Rarotonga, one of the new converts told them that if they would +sail to a given point on the isle of Atiu, he could thence take +bearings which would enable him to find it. So for this starting-point +they made; and, true to his word, the islesman directed them +how to steer, and after several days they reached the beautiful isle +they sought. Here they were received in the most friendly manner; +and the young king, Makea (an exceedingly handsome man, +six feet high, and beautifully tattooed), came on board himself, +and agreed to take the native teachers ashore, with their wives +and the six Christian natives who had been brought back to their +own isle. This promising beginning was, however, not without a +check; for in the early dawn the teachers returned to the ship, +bringing back their wives with garments all tattered and torn, +telling of the grievous treatment they had endured. The chiefs +were exceedingly anxious that the teachers should remain on the +isle to teach them the Word of God, but wished to annex their +wives.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was therefore decided that, for the present, only one fine old +teacher should be left, with the six Rarotongans who had first +suggested the commencement of the mission, on their unknown +isle. So well did their work progress, that within a year the +whole population had renounced idolatry. Makea, the king, was +among the earliest converts; and when, in 1827, Mr Williams +and Mr Pitman arrived with their wives and families to settle in +Rarotonga, they were received by an enthusiastic crowd of about +3000 persons, each of whom insisted on shaking hands so heartily, +that their arms ached severely for several hours after. All these +were professedly Christians; and the new-comers learnt that there +was not a house on the isle in which the family did not assemble +morning and evening for family worship. A few days after their +<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>arrival, they perceived a great body of people approaching bearing +heavy burdens. These proved to be fourteen immense idols, the +smallest of which was about fifteen feet high. Some of these +were reserved to decorate the rafters of the new chapel, built by +the people themselves, to contain 3000 persons; the rest were +destroyed.</p> + +<p class='c008'>While this marvellous change was being wrought on the other +isles, the brave young teachers who had swum ashore on Mangaia +were steadily making their way. Within two years one died, +leaving Davida to labour alone. He had, however, by this time +made some progress; and on one glad day the king and chiefs +determined to abandon the idol shrine, where, every evening, +offerings of food were presented to the thirteen known gods, and +to the great host of the unknown. So, to the great joy of +Davida, the thirteen idols were carried to his house by their late +worshippers, and there stripped of the sacred white cloth in which +priests and gods were always clothed. They are now preserved in +the museum of the London mission, and very much resemble the +wooden idols of the ancient Britons to be seen in our antiquarian +museums.<a id='r24'></a><a href='#f24' class='c017'><sup>[24]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>Thus, in an incredibly short space of time, was the whole system +of idolatry, with its bloody human sacrifices, overthrown in the +Hervey Isles; and how marvellous was the change wrought in +every respect, has been described by Lord Byron, Commander of +H.M.S. Blonde, when he accidentally found himself in the group,—and, +recognising it as one of those discovered by Captain Cook, +approached land with extreme caution, but was welcomed by noble-looking +men, dressed in cotton shirts and very fine mats, who produced +written documents from the London Mission Society, qualifying +them to act as teachers, and then took him ashore to a neat +village with a good school and a crowded church.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From that time forward, the Hervey Islanders have not only +been true to their own profession, but have proved zealous missionaries +in carrying the Gospel to other isles. Their theological +college has already sent forth about 150 trained men as teachers. +About 50 of these are at the present moment scattered among +various remote isles of the Pacific, some of which are still cannibal. +Six of the most zealous and determined men have gone, accompanied +by their brave missionary wives, to face the unknown perils +that await them in New Guinea—where, doubtless, their work will +bear good fruit, and prove the first step in opening up that vast +island to the commerce of the civilised world.<a id='r25'></a><a href='#f25' class='c017'><sup>[25]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>The very first missionary effort of the Hervey Islanders was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>directed by Mr Williams towards Samoa. Even before he left +Raiatea, he had resolved to visit the Navigator group, to endeavour, +there also, to plant some seed of good, which might perchance +take root. Now that the work had so prospered in the +Hervey Isles, he ventured to broach the subject to his wife, who, +naturally enough, at first objected to being left alone with her +children for many months among a race of utter savages, while her +husband went off on a very long and dangerous voyage of about +200 miles, to face perhaps still greater dangers when he reached +his destination. After a while, however, this brave woman made +up her mind that it was right he should go; and much to his +astonishment, several months after the subject had been dismissed, +she volunteered her consent.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then came the primary difficulty of transit. They possessed no +vessel which could possibly make such a journey—only native +canoes. Nothing daunted, Mr Williams determined to try his +hand at shipbuilding, though it was a trade of which he knew +little, and he had scarcely any tools. His first great difficulty lay +in making a pair of smith’s bellows. Though he possessed only +four goats, three were sacrificed for the sake of their skins. The +fourth, which was giving a little milk, was spared. Scarcely were +the bellows finished, when the rats, sole indigenous animals, assembled +in scores, and in one night devoured every particle of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>leather. Having none in reserve, invention was sorely taxed, till +at last Mr Williams devised a machine which should throw out air +as a pump throws water.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This was but one of the countless difficulties to be overcome. +To obtain planks, trees were split with wedges, and then cut up +with small hatchets. For lack of nails the planks were riveted +together with wooden pins. Sails were made of quilted mats and +ropes of hybiscus bark. Cocoa-nut husk supplied the place of +oakum. A clumsy stone anchor was contrived, and also a wooden +one. In short, determination triumphed over every difficulty; and +in fifteen weeks, without any help save what the Rarotongans +could give by obeying his directions, Mr Williams had the satisfaction +of launching a seaworthy vessel of about 80 tons burden, +60 feet in length, and 18 in breadth. To test her sailing powers, +she was to make a preliminary trip to Aitutaki, distant about 170 +miles. Before they had gone six miles, the natives let slip the +foresail, which, straining in the wind, broke the foremast, and +with some difficulty they returned to land. Having repaired the +damage, they started again, reached Aitutaki, and returned thence +to Rarotonga with a cargo of pigs, cats, and cocoa-nuts. The two +first, but especially the pigs, were invaluable in ridding the island +of rats; but a cargo of cocoa-nuts suggests coals to Newcastle, till +we learn that in native warfare the cocoa-palms and bread-fruit +trees were invariably destroyed, so that the fruitful isles were +utterly ravaged.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Messenger of Peace being now proven seaworthy, sailed for +Tahiti, whence she was despatched to the Marquesas, and on +several other mission expeditions, ere starting on that for which +she had been designed. It was not till the year 1830, that Mr +Williams, taking Mr Barff as his colleague, and seven Tahitian +teachers with their wives and children, actually sailed in search +of the almost unknown Navigator’s Isles. They touched at the +Hervey Isles on their way, and these likewise contributed several +teachers, eager to carry to Samoa the Word of Peace, which had +so recently gladdened themselves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Passing on thence to Tonga they received warm welcome from +<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>King George, who had long been a zealous Christian, and whose +energetic nature had thrown itself heart and soul into the work of +converting his people. Never did finer material exist. The Tongans +have ever been noted for their strong, self-reliant, earnest +character; and the same determination which in old days made +them dreaded as the most daring pirates of the South Seas, was +now called into play in quite a new manner, and the pushing +ambitious men who were ever coming to the front in deeds of +aggression, were henceforth the champions of the Christian faith +and its most zealous pioneers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Tonga Mr Williams was the guest of Messrs Nathaniel +Turner and Cross. The name of the latter is familiar to us, as +having shared, with the Rev. David Cargill, the danger and honour +of founding the Wesleyan Mission in Fiji. From them they +heard with joy that Taufaahau, the chief of the Happai group,—a +man of indomitable courage and determination,—had recently +visited King George at Tongatabu, in order to judge for himself +of the new religion. He then returned to his own dominions +accompanied by Tongan native teachers, and proceeded to destroy +all the idols and altars, exhorting the chiefs to follow his example. +Many were naturally indignant at this proceeding, and determined +to celebrate a great festival in honour of the gods. Turtle and +other sacred fish had to be caught for the offerings; so the highhanded +chief, Taufaahau, profited by the delay to desecrate the +temple by driving a herd of pigs into the sacred enclosure, and +converting the temple itself into a sleeping-room for his women-servants—the +presence of a woman being considered pollution to +a <i>marae</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So utterly obnoxious to the gods was the female sex, that it was +certain death for any woman to set foot in a temple—and when +victims were about to be seized for sacrifice, the greatest care was +taken to prevent the approach of any female relation, lest she +should touch the corpse, and so render it unfit to be offered at the +<i>marae</i>. When the worshippers arrived with their offerings of +turtle, they found the poor gods all disrobed, hanging by the neck +from the rafters; and knowing the stern resolution of their chief, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>they retired, discomfited. Having given this proof of his sincerity, +Taufaahau next sent his best canoe to Tonga, to bring Mr +Thomas, the missionary whose teaching had so impressed him; and +who, in answer to this summons, started with his wife to make the +journey of 200 miles in this open canoe, in order to follow up the +work thus begun on Happai.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Vavau, the third group, the work seemed to have little prospect +of success, so virulent was the opposition of Finau the high +chief, who threatened death to any of his people who listened to +the teachers. Yet within two years he was himself a zealous convert, +and upwards of 2000 of his followers were in the habit of +assembling for the Sunday services.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The teachers of the Tonga <i>lotu</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the Wesleyans—continued +steadily working, and their influence spread as a leaven of good +from isle to isle. At Tonga the Samoan party received an unlooked-for +reinforcement in the person of Fauea, a Samoan chief, +who had for some time been living in Tonga, and had there +become a Christian. He requested Mr Williams to give him a +passage in his ship, and proved an invaluable helper, directing him +to steer for Savaii, the principal isle, of which he himself proved +to be a high chief, and related to Malietoa, the greatest chief of all.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Fauea was a man of sound judgment and of most persuasive +eloquence. But he was greatly troubled lest they should meet +with violent opposition from Tamafainga, whom the people obeyed +with trembling, believing that in him dwelt the spirit of the gods. +It was therefore with unmixed relief that he heard, on his arrival, +that this dreaded opponent had been killed a few days previously, +and that there had not yet been time for the chiefs of all the isles +to meet and elect his successor in the office of spiritual ruler.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So the Messenger of Peace was found to have arrived in the +very nick of time, and all the people received Fauea and his +<i>papalangi</i><a id='r26'></a><a href='#f26' class='c017'><sup>[26]</sup></a> friends with open arms. Malietoa, indeed, declared +that he was engaged in a war of vengeance, in which he could not +stay his hand, but that it should be the last; and that when +peace was restored he would himself <i>lotu</i>—that is, become a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>Christian—and encourage all his people to do likewise. He and +his brother Tamalelangi, or “Son of the Sky,” each promised to +protect the native teachers and their wives, and gave them a +hearty welcome as they landed; nevertheless, the old order passed +away in flames and bloodshed, all to avenge the murder of the +rapacious tyrant, who had actually been worshipped as a god, till +the people could no longer endure his outrages and oppressions, +and so waylaid and slew him.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Even at the moment when the teachers were landing on the +island of Savaii, the mountains of Upolu, on the other side of the +straits, were enveloped in flames and smoke, which told that a +battle had been fought that very morning, and that not only were +the plantations being destroyed, but that the women, children, and +infirm people were all being murdered, and their bodies burnt in +their villages. This sanguinary war continued for several months, +and the country was so desolated that for miles together not a +house was left standing; and even the villages which escaped +were full of the sound of wailing and mourning for the dead, in +whose honour the living lacerated their own flesh with broken +shells and sharks’ teeth. When, finally, one party triumphed, +they made huge bonfires, into which they threw many of the vanquished. +Though the Samoans were never guilty of cannibalism, +still there was enough of barbarous cruelty in their warfare to +make a residence among them a very anxious experiment. Having +done what they could to smooth the way for the teachers, Mr +Williams and his colleague were obliged to leave them, in devout +trust that their work might prosper.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Twenty months elapsed ere they were again able to return to +Samoa, and marvellous, far beyond their highest hopes, was the +change they found. On their first visit they had only touched at +Savaii and Upolu, the most westerly of the Navigator group. +Now the first land they sighted was Manua, the most easterly, +about 250 miles distant from that on which the teachers were +established. To their astonishment a number of canoes came out +to meet them, and as they neared the vessel several natives stood +up and declared themselves to be Christians, and that they were +<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>waiting for a <i>falu lotu</i>—a religion-ship—to bring them a teacher +who could tell them about Jesus Christ. Great was their disappointment +when they heard that Mr Williams had only been +able to secure one teacher, whom he had promised to leave on +another isle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These people had received such knowledge as they possessed +from a canoe which had drifted all the way from Rairavae, an +island upwards of 300 miles to the south of Tahiti, and fully +2000 miles from that where it at length arrived, after a three +months’ voyage, in the course of which twenty of the party died +of the hardships they underwent. But the survivors had carefully +preserved their copy of the Tahitian translation of the Scriptures; +and on reaching the unknown isle they built a reed-hut for their +chapel, and there met daily for worship. Thus, among the strange +and precious treasures which from time to time are cast up by the +ocean on far-away isles, did the people of Manua receive the Word +of Life.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Among those who had heard it gladly was a fine young fellow, +a native of Leone, in the Isle Tutuila, to which he begged to be +conveyed in the foreign ship, that he might teach his brethren +what he had learnt. Thither they sailed, touching at the Isles +Orosenga and Ofu, where as yet no rumour of the new teaching +had been heard.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As they approached Tutuila, they were surrounded by a vast +number of canoes filled with excessively wild-looking men, clamouring +for powder and muskets, as they were on the eve of a great +war with a neighbouring chief. No sign there of any leaven of +good—in fact, the presence among them of a resident Englishman +of the “beach-combing” fraternity, was anything but a hopeful +indication. The amount of mischief done by even the average +specimens of this class has been incalculable; but many have been +miscreants of the deepest dye, whose crimes have aroused the +horror of even the vilest heathen. Many of them were desperadoes—convicts +escaped from New South Wales in stolen vessels, +which they scuttled on reaching any desirable isle, where they +generally contrived to make themselves useful in war, and so +<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>secure the protection of some chief. One of these men, who made +his way to Samoa, was said to have shot 200 persons with his +musket, smearing himself with charcoal and oil to enable him to +creep within range undetected. His delight at the end of such a +day’s sport was to seat himself on a sort of litter, smeared with +blood, surrounded by the heads of his victims, and so be carried +home by his followers, yelling savage songs of triumph. Such +men as these were not exactly calculated to improve the morals of +the Pacific!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Passing on to beautiful Leone, which bore an evil character for +savage cruelty and treachery, and the massacre of various boats’ +crews, the mission party beheld the people drawn up on the beach, +in what appeared a formidable array. They, however, lowered +the boat and neared the shore, when the chief, bidding his people +sit down, waded up to his neck till he reached the strangers, and +explained that he and his followers were no longer savage, but +“sons of the word;” and went on to tell how, twenty moons +previously, some of his people had been at Savaii when the white +chief Williams had arrived there with some <i>tama-fai-lotu</i>, “workers +of religion,” and having learnt a little, they had returned +home with the news, and already fifty of the people had become +Christians. Pointing to a group who sat somewhat apart, under +the shade of the bread-fruit trees, and who each wore a strip of +white native cloth tied round one arm, he said that those were the +Christians, who had adopted that badge to distinguish them from +the heathen; that they had built a place for prayer, in a thicket +of bananas; and that one of their number from time to time +crossed over to Savaii in his little canoe, to “get some more religion” +from the teachers<a id='r27'></a><a href='#f27' class='c017'><sup>[27]</sup></a> to bring back to his own people.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On learning that the man he was addressing was the identical +<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>“white chief” who had visited Savaii, he made a sign to his +people, who rushed into the sea, and carried the boat and all who +were in it high and dry on the beach in their enthusiastic welcome; +but when they learnt that the religion-ship had brought no +teacher for them, their disappointment was unbounded; and so, +we may well believe, was that of the zealous apostle who had discovered +these isles “white to the harvest,” but had failed to find +reapers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So eager was the desire to know about the better way, that +there were many places in the isles where the people, having only +heard a dim rumour of what others had learnt, had actually built +places for the worship of the unknown God, and, having prepared +their food on the Saturday, assembled there at six o’clock each +Sabbath morning, and again twice in the day, not for service, +because none knew what to say, but to sit together in reverent +silence, waiting for some revelation of His will. It seemed a +strangely literal illustration of the words of the Hebrew prophet, +“The isles shall wait for His law.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>Passing on to the beautiful little isle of Manono, and the great +isles of Savaii and Upolu, the missionaries were received with +extravagant joy by teachers and people; and by the high chiefs +with more nose-rubbing than was agreeable! They heard with +delight that all the principal chiefs and many of the people had +already declared themselves Christians, and had proved themselves +in earnest by truly consistent conduct; and that the majority of +the people had resolved to follow their good example. Upwards +of a thousand sat breathlessly to hear the white man’s words, +spoken in Tahitian, and interpreted by one of the teachers. Then +Makea, the king of Rarotonga, a man of magnificent stature, who +had accompanied Mr Williams, addressed the people, and explained +how wonderful had been the change wrought in his own isles +since they embraced the <i>lotu</i>;<a id='r28'></a><a href='#f28' class='c017'><sup>[28]</sup></a> how, in old days, they had been +for ever fighting and murdering one another, till at length they +had hearkened to the voice of the teachers, and, in fear and trembling, +had brought their idols to be burnt, and had watched from +<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>afar while those daring men had cooked their bananas on the +embers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here, in Samoa, there were very few idols, and no blood-stained +<i>maraes</i>, altars, or temples; human sacrifice, or indeed any sort of +sacrifice, was not required; hence the expression, “Godless as a +Samoan,” by which the men of other groups described any one +who neglected the service of the temples. The Samoans, however, +were diligent in the worship of their own ancestors, and, moreover, +supposed that the spirit of their gods animated divers birds, fishes, +or reptiles. As certain Indian tribes have adopted different animals +as their <i>totem-god</i>, so in Samoa and the Hervey Isles, each +chief had his <i>etu</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, some living creature, which to him and to +his people was sacred; and foreigners, ignorant of this matter, +sometimes incurred serious danger from accidentally killing some +revered reptile, or even insect. The man who found a dead body +of his representative deity, say an owl, a heron, or a bat, would stop +and wail piteously, beating his own forehead with stones till it bled; +then wrapping up the poor dead creature with all reverence, he +would solemnly bury it, with as much care as if it had been a near +relation. This was supposed to be pleasing to the gods. When, +therefore, any Samoan resolved to declare himself a Christian, he +commenced by killing and eating the familiar spirit of his tribe, +whether grasshopper, centipede, octopus, vampire-bat, snake, eel, +lizard, parrot, or other creature.<a id='r29'></a><a href='#f29' class='c017'><sup>[29]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>There was one chief who reverenced as his <i>etu</i> the fractured, +but carefully mended, skull of a white man, whose firearms had +won his admiration, though the man’s crimes had led to his +being clubbed. An amusing story is told of the terror with +which these simple folk first beheld a talking cockatoo in the +cabin of a vessel. With a cry of dismay they rushed on deck +and leapt overboard, declaring that the captain had his <i>etu</i> in the +cabin, and that they had heard it talking to him.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The story of the conversion of these much tattooed but little +clothed warriors abounds in picturesque detail. Thus, when the +great chief Malietoa promised Mr Williams that he would become +<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>a Christian so soon as he had fully avenged the death of Tamafainga, +“in whom was the spirit of the evil gods,” before himself +going forth to battle, he sent one of his sons to help the teachers +to build their chapel. On his return, when the chapel was to be +opened, he called his sons together and announced his intention of +fulfilling his promise to the white chief. With one accord they +replied that what was good for their father was good for them, and +that they too would <i>lotu</i>. This, however, he forbade, declaring +that if they obstinately insisted on so doing, he would continue in +the faith of his ancestors. “Do you not know,” he said, “that the +gods will be enraged with me and seek to destroy me? and perhaps +Jehovah may not be strong enough to protect me against +them! I purpose, therefore, to try the experiment. If He can +protect me, you may safely follow my example; but if not, then I +only shall perish.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>The young men were reluctant to obey, and asked how long they +must allow for this test. Malietoa suggested a month or six +weeks; and intense was the interest with which all his people +waited and watched, lest sickness or other evil should befall him. +But when, at the end of three weeks, all went on prosperously, it +was felt that the supremacy of the Christian’s God was established, +and the sons of Malietoa would wait no longer. So, calling together +a great company of friends and kinsmen, they proceeded +solemnly to cook a large quantity of <i>anae</i>, a silvery fish, which +was the <i>etu</i> of their tribe. These being laid on freshly gathered +leaves, were placed before each person, and the teachers solemnly +offered a prayer, ere, with fear and trembling, these young converts +nerved themselves to swallow a few morsels of the sacred fish, +hitherto held in such reverence. So intense, however, was the +hold of the old superstition, that the young men, unable to conquer +their fear lest the <i>etu</i> should gnaw their vitals and destroy +them, immediately retired to swallow a large dose of cocoa-nut oil +and salt water, which, acting as a powerful emetic, greatly tended +to counteract any malignant influence of the offended gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Soon after this, a great meeting of chiefs was convened to +consult on the fate of Papo, the venerable god of war. This +<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>renowned relic was nothing but a strip of rotten old matting, about +three yards long and four inches wide, which was always attached +to the war-canoe of the highest chief when he went forth to battle. +Now an impious voice suggested that this venerated rag should be +thrown in the fire, but a burst of disapprobation silenced this cruel +suggestion. However, all agreed that Papo must be exterminated; +so as drowning was a less horrible death than burning, they resolved +to launch a new canoe, in which a number of high chiefs +should row out to sea, and, having fastened Papo to a heavy stone, +should commit him to the deep. They had actually started on +this errand, with great ceremony, when the teachers hurried after +them in another canoe, to beg that the old war-god might be presented +to Mr Williams. The chiefs were immensely relieved by +the suggestion; and the venerable strip of matting is now to be +seen in the museum of the London Mission.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I cannot solve the mystery of this Samoan reverence for certain +ancient mats; but I well remember our astonishment, when the +Samoan chiefs came to Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon on the +question of British protection, to see with what infinite solemnity +these fine stately men presented him with a very dirty and exceedingly +unfragrant and tattered old mat, which, I believe, was to be +offered to her Majesty Queenie Vikatoria, but has, I think, found +an asylum in the British Museum. What makes this so very +strange is, that the mats worn by the Samoan chiefs and ladies are +beautifully fine and glossy, of most delicate straw-colour, and edged +with handsome grass-fringe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Whatever may have been the origin of this form of antiquarian +lunacy, its existence is an unmistakable reality. The Samoan chief +treasures the dirty and ragged old mat of some revered ancestor as a +British regiment does the tattered colours which find their honoured +rest in some grey sanctuary. The old mat, which from generation to +generation has been jealously guarded by his clan, is his patent of +nobility, and the title-deed which proves his right to broad acres. +Some of these strips of dirty old matting, which no rag-man would +pick off a dust-heap, are known throughout the group by special +names. There is one, which is known to be upwards of 200 years +<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>old, during which period its successive guardians have all been +duly enrolled. It is called <i>Moe-e-fui-fui</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the mat which slept +beneath the vines—in allusion to its having lain hidden for several +years among the lilac ipomeas which twine in matted tangles all +along the sea-beach. No money would induce a Samoan to sell +one of these unsavoury treasures: it is said that £100 might be +offered in vain, though I certainly cannot imagine any sane person +offering 100 pence.</p> + +<p class='c008'>However, it is simply a form of relic-worship,—and probably no +whit more foolish than the adoration of dirty clothes and kindred +objects, supposed to have been hallowed by the touch of Christian +or Buddhist saints. Indeed I am far more inclined to sympathise +with the heathen Tahitian, who wore as an amulet the toe-nail of +the father whom he had loved, than I can do with the multitudinous +Christians who sanctify their altars by the presence of some +splinter of saintly bone.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Amongst the many touching incidents of these early days, was +that of one large village in which, contrary to the general course, all +the women became Christians before any of the men did so. Mr +Williams had reached a town called Amoa, the people of which had +all accepted the <i>lotu</i>, when a party of seventy women approached +in single file, each bearing a gift. At their head walked a tall +handsome woman, with a mat, dyed red, folded about her loins, +and the upper part of her body freely anointed with sweet-oil, +tinged with turmeric. On her neck and arms she wore a necklace +and bracelets of large blue beads; but her hair, alas! was all cut +off, except one little lock falling over the left cheek. Her companions +were equally picturesque,—the unmarried women being +distinguished by their wearing a white mat, and no oil and +turmeric, and by their retaining a profusion of graceful curls on +one side of their head, while the other was shaven and shorn. +The poorest girls wore only fringes of large leaves and wreaths of +flowers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It appeared that the leader was a chiefess of high rank, who, +some time previously, had come to Amoa, and there remained for +a month, diligently attending to the instructions of the teachers. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>Then, returning to her own district, she had collected all the +women, and told them all she had learnt, and so interested them +in the subject, that a large number had agreed to renounce heathen +worship. They built a leaf-hut for their church; and here the +teacher from Amoa occasionally came to conduct service. At other +times the chiefess herself did so, making frequent pilgrimages +through the week to learn new lessons from the teacher, and returning +to impart this wisdom to her companions.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thus, within the short space of twenty moons, was Mr Williams +allowed to see the beginning of an abundant harvest, where he had +but scattered the seed; and a true grief saddened his heart when +compelled to refuse the entreaties of chiefs and people that he +would fetch his family and come to live and die among them, to +teach them how to love Jesus Christ. But when he reminded +them that there were eight isles in the group, and that he must +return to England to fetch other teachers, they bade him Godspeed,—only +praying that he would hasten back, because assuredly +many of them would be dead ere his return.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This true apostle went on his way, carrying the light to many +a region of darkness, till, in the year 1839, he reached the ill-fated +shores of Eromanga, in the New Hebrides, which was the scene of +his martyrdom. With his loved friend, James Harris, he had succeeded +in obtaining a friendly reception on the neighbouring isle +of Tanna, and there left three Samoan teachers to begin work +among its hideous savages. Twenty miles further lies Eromanga, +whose people are the most hopeless cannibals of the Pacific. As +the brave men landed on the inhospitable isle, a host of armed +savages rushed out from the bushes in which they were concealed. +In an instant both were clubbed, and the bodies of the grand +apostle of the South Seas and his young disciple became food for +the miserable cannibals whom they longed to reclaim. It was the +usual tale of revenge. These Eromangans had, shortly before, +been cruelly ill-treated by a party of sandal-wood traders, who +wantonly killed several natives on their attempting to defend their +women, and to save their plantations from indiscriminate plunder. +Naturally enough, these poor savages, seeing another foreign boat +<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>land at the same spot as their enemies had done, failed to discriminate +friend from foe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is impossible to overstate the amount of hindrance to mission +work and to all civilising influences which has been occasioned by +the lawless proceedings of unprincipled white men, too many of +whom have proved themselves truly white barbarians. In their +greedy craving for gain, they have so thoroughly quenched every +spark of justice and honour in their dealings with the dark-skinned +races, that on some of the Papuan Isles, the name by which the +natives describe a white man means literally “a sailing profligate.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>The vessels employed in the labour trade—<i>i.e.</i>, in “engaging” +or <i>securing</i> men to work on plantations in Fiji or Australia—were +by no means the only culprits, though the horrible cruelties practised +by many of these in former years have been a disgrace to +humanity. Nearly as much harm was done by men engaged in +the sandal-wood trade, who gloried in defrauding the natives by +every means in their power—promising certain articles in exchange +for a given amount of sandal-wood, and on its receipt sailing away, +to be no more heard of. Or perhaps they inveigled a chief on +board, and there kept him as a hostage till his people brought large +quantities of sandal-wood as his ransom; and having secured all +they could get at that particular isle, they still refused to give up +the chief—probably secured some of his followers, and carried +them to another isle, where they forced them to work for months +in cutting the coveted wood, and finally sold them to the natives, +in exchange for yams and pigs—a man fetching from five to ten +live pigs, according to his size. It is almost needless to say that +the hostile natives merely purchased the strangers as food for the +cannibal oven. Occasionally some of these unfortunates contrived +to escape, and got on board whaling-ships, where they were kindly +treated, and some were even taken back to their own isles. There +were ships which fired unscrupulously on any village which failed +to bring them sandal-wood. On one occasion three vessels engaged +in this trade anchored off one of the New Hebrides. Their men +plundered the yam-gardens and stole all the pigs, numbering +several hundreds. Of course the owners resisted, and were +<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>ruthlessly shot. Finally, many took refuge in a cave, when the +white barbarians proceeded to pull down the houses and heap up +the dry thatch and rafters at the mouth of the cave as fuel for a +great bonfire. Of course all the inmates were suffocated. Such +deeds as these, of course, led to reprisals; and Dr Turner says +that, to his own knowledge, upwards of 320 men engaged in the +sandal-wood traffic perished between the years 1839 and 1848. +Such facts as these should be borne in mind, as affording the clue +to many an unprovoked outrage by brown men on white. The +tradition of past wrongs lingers long in savage races.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Within a year of John Williams’s murder, the Rev. George +Turner and Rev. H. Nisbet attempted to commence work in the +same field, but found it impossible. Even while they were +struggling to maintain their position on the isle of Tanna, a +whaling-ship touched there for water, and her men immediately +fell to quarrelling with the natives, whereupon the vessel weighed +anchor and sailed along the coast, firing promiscuously into all the +villages she passed. There would not have been much cause for +wonder if the savages (who had seen Mr Turner directing these +men where to find water) had at once turned on him and his companions +and murdered them all. As it was, they continued to +brave the perils of their position for some months ere they were +compelled to fly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When Mr Turner revisited Eromanga in 1859, the Rev. —— +Gordon, who was then settled there, told them that a few months +previously another sandal-wood trader had got into serious trouble, +and three of his men had been killed by the natives; but he himself +acknowledged that they had earned their fate. On that occasion +the Eromangans had the discrimination to spare the righteous; +but not long afterwards Mr Gordon and his wife were cruelly +murdered.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Eleven years passed, when a message reached the Rev. J. D. +Gordon (brother of the above) praying him to come and heal some +sick children at Eromanga. As a medical missionary he at once +complied, only to hear on his arrival that the children were dead; +and their father could find no solace for his blind, ungrateful +<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>grief, but to slay the medicine-man who had arrived too late. One +blow from his tomahawk added yet another to the grievous list of +the martyrs of Eromanga.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the mission station at Apia, on the isle of Upolu, on the +very spot where John Williams first landed in Samoa, and +where he stood to bid what proved to be his last farewell to the +people—two graves lying side by side contain some bones brought +to Samoa in 1840 by H.M.S. Favourite, in the belief that they +were those of the martyrs. It is now, however, known that they +were bones taken at random by the natives from a cave where +they are wont to deposit their own dead, under the impression +that the foreign ship wished to purchase human bones. The skull +of John Williams is buried beneath a palm-tree on Eromanga, +which is doubtless as quiet a resting-place as a foreign grave in +turbulent Apia. Near it, was buried a small bit of red sealing-wax, +about an inch and a half in length, which was found by the +natives in his pocket, and supposed to be a foreign idol. This +relic was afterwards disinterred and sent home to his children.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I think the attempt to recover the remains of the dead from +their savage murderers is at best very unsatisfactory. We had a +fair example of it in Fiji, where great efforts were made to recover +the bones of the Rev. —— Baker, who was there killed and eaten. +So successful was this endeavour that one mission station alone +has received three skulls, all positively declared to be his!</p> + +<p class='c008'>While both the London Mission and the Wesleyans have done +such excellent work in Samoa, it is to be regretted that a corner +of rivalry should have contrived to creep in—a rootlet of bitterness—not +very serious perhaps, but still a corner of contention. +It appears that at the time when Mr Williams first landed in +Samoa, in 1830, several native teachers from the Wesleyan Mission +in Tonga had already begun to work there, and the promise of +white teachers had already been made to expectant congregations. +When, therefore, in 1835, the Rev. Peter Turner, of the Wesleyan +Mission, reached the isle of Manono, he was received with open +arms by a zealous flock; and when, shortly afterwards, he travelled +round the isles of Savaii and Upolu, he found more than 2000 +<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>persons who were members of the Tonga <i>lotu</i>, and 40 persons who +were acting as teachers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At that time the Tahiti <i>lotu</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the London Mission—was +only represented by five or six Tahitian teachers, who were located +at certain towns, and confined their labours to their immediate +neighbourhood. On Mr Turner’s arrival he commenced diligently +seeking the people in all parts of the isles, with such marked result +that within twenty months upwards of 13,000 persons had +joined the Tonga <i>lotu</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Wesleyans specially note that Mr Turner was the first +resident white missionary in Samoa. Some months after his +arrival came a trading ship, which brought Mr Pratt, as representative +of the London Mission; and in 1836, six missionaries of the +London Society arrived and held a public meeting in the Tahitian +chapel at Manono, when it was clearly proved that a considerable +number of Samoans had adopted the Tonga <i>lotu</i> before the arrival +of Mr Williams, though they only met for worship quietly in their +own homes. The Tahitian teachers were the first who began to +conduct public services, but their adherents were found to be +numerically fewer than those of the Tongans.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Stress is laid on these details, because it was alleged by the +London Mission that Messrs N. Turner and Cross had agreed +with Mr Williams to devote their efforts to the Fijian group, and +leave the Navigator’s Isles to the London Mission. Messrs Turner +and Cross, on the other hand, entirely repudiate any such compact, +and state that the first they heard of it was when the London +missionaries arrived in Samoa, where their agent was already established, +in accordance with their promise to the friendly chiefs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As neither party were inclined to yield, both missions continued +to work simultaneously, each acknowledging the good work done +by the other, yet regretting the division, which might so easily +have been avoided. However, it has been a sacrifice of uniformity +rather than of unity; and I suppose the Church militant must +always be made up of divers regiments.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I believe the London Mission has at present seven congregational +ministers in Samoa, and seventy-five native teachers. Their +<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>nominal adherents number about 30,000. The Australasian Wesleyan +Mission has two white missionaries and one native minister. +These superintend the work of 50 teachers and 85 local preachers. +There are 47 chapels, with 1200 church members, and congregations +numbering altogether about 5000.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Roman Catholics number about 4000.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As has been the case throughout Polynesia, many of the new +converts have become earnest missionaries; and not only have +several Samoan teachers found their way to Fiji, but when in its +turn the infant Church in that group determined to commence a +mission among the savage races of New Britain, two Samoan +teachers volunteered to accompany their Fijian brethren on this +noble but dangerous enterprise. Others have gone to settle in the +very uninviting Gilbert and Kingsmill groups, close to the equator, +amongst hideous tribes of the lowest type, whose barren isles fail +to yield any manner of crop; so that for lack of better diet, the +unpalatable fruit of the pandanus, which in Samoa is only used +for stringing into necklaces, is accounted an important item of +food. For love of these poor souls these self-denying men give up +their own most lovely homes, and bid a lifelong farewell to parents +and kindred. Many a bitter scene has been enacted on these +shores, when aged relatives, clinging to these dear ones with all +the demonstrative love of the warm southern temperament, follow +the mission-boat as it pushes off, and wade up to the shoulders, +weeping and wailing for those who may never come back to them, +and knowing full well how many have already fallen in the hard-fought +battle. Certainly these Samoan teachers have given good +proof of their zeal and willingness to endure hardship, as good +soldiers of the Cross.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'>NOTE ON ETU OR TOTEM WORSHIP.</h3> + +<p class='c020'>We are so much in the habit of considering this strange worship of +representative animals, in connection with the simple superstitions of +such utterly uncivilised races as these poor savages of the Pacific Isles, or +<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>the Indian tribes of America, that it is startling to recollect how large a +place it held in the intricate mythology of so wise and learned a people +as the ancient Egyptians, who not only excelled in all arts of peace and +war, but seem to have mastered many of those mysteries of science which +still perplex the learned men of the nineteenth century. Long ere the +Greeks and Israelites had learnt their earliest lessons from the sages +from Egypt, and while Rome was but a village of mud-huts, the banks +of the Nile were graced with buildings, which, in their stately beauty, +rivalled the marvels of Babel. Prominent among these was the temple +of the sacred bull Mnevis. The patron god of Memphis was the golden +bull Apis, to whom pure white bulls were sacrificed; while in his honour +jet-black bulls were worshipped during life, and after death were +embalmed, and preserved in sarcophagi of polished black basalt. Only +their bones were preserved, swathed in linen, and tied up so as to resemble +an animal lying down. A full-grown bull thus prepared was no +bigger than a calf, while a calf was the size of a dog. Thirty-three of +these sacred bull-mummies were found in the catacombs, each in its own +sarcophagus.</p> + +<p class='c021'>Other catacombs were entirely devoted to the mummies of sacred dogs +and cats, beetles and mice, hawks and ibis, each neatly strapped up in +linen and sealed up in a red earthenware jar. These are found packed +like the contents of some vast wine-cellar—tier behind tier, and in layers +reaching to the roof of the catacombs, some of which are large caves, +with endless ramifications; yet chamber after chamber of these vast +storehouses are all alike closely packed with this vast multitude of +mummy-jars, accumulated by countless generations of reverent worshippers.</p> + +<p class='c021'>Strangest of all these sepulchres of sacred creatures, are the crocodile +mummy-pits, in which are stored a vast assemblage of crocodiles of all +sizes, from the patriarch measuring twelve or fourteen feet in length, to +the poor baby only five inches long, each wrapped up in palm-leaves. +Thousands of these little demigods, about eighteen inches long, are tied +together in bundles of eight or ten, and swathed in coarse cloth. True +believers in the crocodile-headed god Savak, kept these creatures tame in +a great crocodile city near the artificial lake Mœris, where they were fed +with cake and roast meat, washed down by draughts of mulled wine; their +fore-feet were adorned with golden bracelets, and their ears were pierced +and enriched with precious gems. But the worshippers had to fight the +battles of their gods against various irreverent neighbours, notably +against the people of Elephantine, who, so far from worshipping the +crocodile, considered it a dainty dish, to be eaten as often as it could be +captured.</p> + +<p class='c021'>So well known to their contemporaries was this Egyptian reverence +<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>for certain birds, beasts, and insects, that on at least one occasion it +proved a valuable aid to their foes, as when Cambyses captured a city, +by forming a vanguard of all manner of animals—cats and dogs, bulls +and goats—assured that one or other must be held sacred by the +besieged; and so it proved, for the latter dared not throw a dart lest +they should injure their “bleating gods.”</p> + +<p class='c021'>Each of these had their especial sacred city, where their precious +remains were embalmed and their mummies stored. Dogs and ichneumons +might indeed be buried in their own cities, but hawks and shrew-mice +were generally conveyed to Buto, and ibises to Hermopolis. +Onuphis was the city specially dedicated to the worship of the asp; but +all manner of serpents were worshipped in gorgeous temples over the +length and breadth of the land, and the reptiles were fed with flour and +honey by their appointed priests, and their bodies eventually embalmed +with all possible reverence. Cat-mummies were stored in the sacred city +of Bubastis; goats at Mendes; wolves were preserved in pits near Sioux; +while the ram, sacred to the sun, was worshipped at Thebes, the sun city.</p> + +<p class='c021'>The death of a cat was considered so dire a misfortune, that if a house +were to take fire the Egyptians would let it burn to the ground, if only +they could rescue the cats, which, however, had an awkward trick of +jumping into the flames. Should one of these perish, all the inmates of +the house shaved their eyebrows. Should a dog die, the head and beard +were also shaved. Each species of animal had its appointed guardians +to feed and tend them, the office being hereditary. A heavy fine attended +any accident which befell these precious creatures; and should one +perish through carelessness, the life of the keeper was forfeit, more +especially if the victim were an ibis or a hawk, for whose death there +was no forgiveness.</p> + +<p class='c021'>The hawk, whose piercing eye can so fearlessly gaze upon the sun, was +the special type of that great source of light. It was worshipped in +Heliopolis and the other sun temples, where living birds were kept in +cages, and pictures of sacred hawks, seated amidst lotus-plants, adorned +the walls. With such reverence were they treated, that when the +Egyptian hosts went forth to battle, they carried their hawks with their +armies; and should some chance to die in foreign lands, their bodies +were embalmed, and brought to Egypt to be buried in consecrated tombs. +Thus numerous hawk-mummies have been discovered at Thebes and +elsewhere.</p> + +<p class='c021'>Hence it would appear that each of these creatures was the <i>totem</i>, or +representative animal of some tribe, which bestowed thereon all due +veneration in life and in death. Probably the <i>totem</i> of one tribe would +receive no honour from the next. Hence the battles already alluded to +between the cities which worshipped crocodiles and those which ate +<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>them! and the still more deadly civil wars that raged between the +worshippers of the Oxyrinchus fish and the dog-worshippers of Cynopolis, +when the latter were guilty of fishing in the Nile, and not only +capturing the holy fish, but also eating them.</p> + +<p class='c021'>No salmon commissioners could be more wrathful at the wilful +destruction of salmon-fry than were these fish-adoring Egyptians when +tidings of the crime reached their city. Swift vengeance followed; for +the deified dogs, worshipped by the gluttonous offenders, were caught and +sacrificed to appease the wrath of the fish-gods, their flesh affording a +delicious feast for the priests. This of course led to a prolonged civil +war, and the sacking of towns and bloodshed were only checked by the +arrival of the Roman legions, who punished both parties, and reduced +them to order. Such wars continued from time to time, even so late as +the fourth century after Christ, by which time, however, various cities +(notably that of Oxyrinchus) had adopted the new faith, and the cells +set apart for sacred animals were tenanted by the monks.</p> + +<p class='c021'>If we follow out this subject, it may perhaps bring us nearer home +than we imagine; for just as the Australian blacks are divided into +clans bearing the name of the animal, or even the plant, from which they +believe themselves to be descended, and which they must on no account +eat or gather—and are thus known as “The Black Snakes,” “The +Swans,” “The Turtles,” “The Kangaroos,” &c.,—so our antiquarians tell +us, that many of our tattooed or painted Anglo-Saxon ancestors bore the +names of animals or plants, which doubtless were in truth the <i>totem</i> of +their family. Thus the Bercings and Thornings traced their descent from +the birch and thorn, and the Bockings from the beech; and the homes +of these families still bear such names as Bocking, Birchington, and +Thornington. Elmington and Oakington are supposed to have been +peopled by sons of the elm and of the oak; while Ashendon recalls the +Ashings or Æscings, who bore the name of the sacred ash-tree; and the +Fearnings of Farningham were supposed to descend from a humble fern.</p> + +<p class='c021'>Buckingham and Berrington are said to have derived their names from +the Buccings and Berings, sons of the buck and of the bear; while the +followers of the wolf did him honour by bestowing on their children +such names as Wulfing, Eadwulf, Beowulf, or Ethelwulf. The sacred +white horse (whose image remains to this day on the downs of Westbury +and Wantage, as clearly defined as when first our Saxon ancestors scraped +the green grass from off the chalk hillside) was the symbol reverenced by +all Aryan races, and Hengest and Horsa, the leaders of the early English, +bore names which entitled them to command their fellows. They have +left their mark in such territorial names as Hengestesdun, Horstead, +Horsington, and many more. The Otterings of Otterington owed allegiance +to the otter.</p> + +<p class='c021'><span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>The snake was as much revered in Britain as in all other corners of +the world, and no disrespect was implied in describing him as a worm. +Hence the family of Wyrmings, and such geographical traces as Wormington, +Wormingford, and even Ormskirk and Great Orm’s (or Worm’s) +Head. The Earnings were adherents of the earn or eagle; the Everings +or Eoferings of <i>Eofer</i>, the wild boar, whose home was at Eversley. Raveningham +and Cockington are said to bear the name of the old lords of +the soil, the sons of the raven and of the cock; while the Fincings of +Finchingfield and the Thryscings of Thrushington, are said to represent +the families who adopted the Thrush and the Finch as their <i>totem</i>.</p> + +<p class='c021'>Altogether there appears good reason to infer that the reverence for +birds and beasts, fishes and reptiles, which excites our compassionate +wonder in reading of poor untutored savages, such as these Samoans, was +once a powerful influence in our own British Isles.<a id='r30'></a><a href='#f30' class='c017'><sup>[30]</sup></a></p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER X.<br> <span class='c009'>LEAVE SAMOA—REACH TAHITI—GREY SHADOWS—DEATH OF QUEEN POMARE—LA LOIRE AND HER PASSENGERS—A GENERAL DISPERSION—LIFE ASHORE AT PAPEETE—ADMIRAL SERRE AND THE ROYAL FAMILY—FAMILIES OF SALMON AND BRANDER—ADOPTION.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate, Apia</span>,</div> + <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening, 30th September</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>It is finally settled that I am really going on to Tahiti. From +what I have told you, you can fully understand that Samoa would +not be an inviting place in which to lie stranded for an unlimited +period; and though I, individually, have received the greatest possible +kindness from many of the foreign residents, and from the +Samoan chiefs of both parties, still the whole atmosphere is tainted +with lies and the strivings of self-interest, and is altogether unwholesome. +So I have definitely accepted the invitation so repeatedly +and heartily given, and to-morrow I am to return on board the +Seignelay.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>I have just received letters from some, and messages from all on +board, expressing cordial pleasure at my decision, especially from +M. de Gironde, whose cabin I occupy; so I really feel that I shall +be a welcome guest.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The great difficulty will lie beyond Tahiti, but I must e’en trust +to my luck.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is also decided that the bishop is to proceed at once to France, +both on Church business and for medical advice. It is a good +thing that he is so soon to leave this place, where he is terribly +worried by the attempt to reconcile so many conflicting interests. +He looks much worse than when we arrived.<a id='r31'></a><a href='#f31' class='c017'><sup>[31]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning he officiated at High Mass; and all the men and +officers of the Seignelay attended in full uniform. The service was +choral, and of course the church was crowded. I passed it on my +way to a very small Congregational chapel, where Dr Turner conducted +an English service. We met numbers of people on their +way to the Protestant native churches; and I was amused to observe +how many carried their Bibles neatly folded up in a piece of white +<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span><i>tappa</i>; just as an old wife in Scotland would wrap hers in a white +handkerchief!</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the afternoon my hostess accompanied me to the convent, +where the children sang prettily while we sat in the pleasant garden. +The sisters bade me good-bye quite sadly. “It has been +<i>des adieux</i> all day,” said one.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On Board Le Seignelay</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Monday, 1st October</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>M. de Gironde came at daybreak to escort me on board. All +the Puletoa chiefs crowded round to say good-bye—and I ran down +the garden for a last word with their “orator,” a fine young fellow, +who was nursing his new-born baby in the large native house. His +wife is such a nice pretty young woman. I felt quite sorry to leave +them all, not knowing what may be the next tidings of woe. We +know that war may be renewed at any moment.<a id='r32'></a><a href='#f32' class='c017'><sup>[32]</sup></a></p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Saturday, 6th October 1877.</i></div> + <div class='line in4'>(<i>Tossing a good deal.</i>)</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>With a dreary waste of grey waters on every side of us, and no +<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>trace of land save two inquisitive boobies, which have for some +hours been flying round us, it is hard to realise that to-morrow we +are to enter the far-famed harbour of Papeete, and that by this time +to-morrow evening we shall be ashore, listening to the <i>himènes</i> of +the multitude assembled for the great feast which begins the next +day—a great feast, by the way—held in honour of the anniversary +of the Protectorate! I wonder how poor old Queen Pomare likes it!</p> + +<p class='c008'>We left Samoa on Monday, 1st October, and the next day was +also called Monday, October 1st, to square the almanacs, so that we +can say we had done the 1700 miles in just a week. The weather +has been considerably against us, but extra steam was put on to +insure catching this mail, as great stress is evidently laid on not +losing a day in reporting the proceedings at Samoa to the Home +Government. The amount of reports written since we started has +been something prodigious!...</p> + +<p class='c008'>What with all this writing going on, and the extra motion of the +vessel from travelling at such unwonted speed, life has not been so +tranquilly pleasant as in the previous weeks. I have had quite to +give up my cosy studios on the big gun-carriage, or my quiet corner +of the bridge. Instead of these, I have found a place of refuge and +a hearty welcome in <i>le carré</i> (the gun-room), which does not dance +so actively as the captain’s cabin, over the screw. In it at this +moment a select set are either reading or writing their home letters, +ready for the ’Frisco<a id='r33'></a><a href='#f33' class='c017'><sup>[33]</sup></a> mail, which is supposed to sail from Tahiti +on Monday morning....</p> + +<p class='c008'>(At this point, a wave breaking over the ship, trickled down on +my head through the skylight. Hence the smudge. I wonder how +you would write with the table alternately knocking your nose and +then rolling you over to the opposite side of the cabin!)</p> + +<p class='c008'>Every creature on board is rejoicing at the prospect of returning +to the Tahitian Elysium. To me this has been a dream ever since +my nursery days, when the big illustrated volumes of old voyages +that lay in my father’s dressing-room were the joy of many a happy +hour, combined with such sticks of barley-sugar as I can never find +at any confectioner’s nowadays! There we first read the romantic +<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>story of how Captain Cook discovered those isles of beauty, and +named them after the “Royal Society” which had sent him to +explore these unknown seas. The Tahiti of to-day is doubtless a +very different place from the Otaheite of 1774.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course, in a highly organised French colony much of the old +romance must have passed away with its dangers. But the natural +loveliness of the isle cannot have changed, and I look forward with +great delight to seeing it all.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Every one speaks in the highest terms of Mr Miller, our long-established +English consul, and his charming Peruvian wife (so +Lord Pembroke describes her). Both are intimate friends of Captain +Aube and the bishop, who will commit me to their care on +arriving. I have also an excellent introduction to Mr Green, the +head of the London Mission; and M. Vernier, of the French Protestant +Mission, was once for some months at Inveraray. I hear +golden opinions both of Mrs Green and Mme. Vernier, and of M. +and Mme. Viennot, of the same mission. So amongst them all, I +have no doubt that I shall be all right.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But I cannot quite forget what a hideous future lies beyond. +The total distance I have travelled in this large comfortable steamer, +from Fiji to Tahiti, including trips from isle to isle, has been 2985 +miles. From Tahiti (after this good ship has sped on her way to +Valparaiso) there remain two courses before me—either to go to +New Zealand, 3000 miles, or to Honolulu, 3200 miles,—in either +case in a small sailing vessel, starting at some uncertain period. +There is a monthly mail to San Francisco, but that is only a +schooner of about 120 tons; and <i>viâ</i> San Francisco would be +rather a circuitous route to Sydney! where I expect to meet Lady +Gordon somewhere about Christmas. It is a hideous prospect, but +I have too much faith in my luck to be deeply concerned about it. +The worst of it all is, that I cannot possibly receive any letters till +I arrive in Sydney, which may, I fear, be some time hence.</p> +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/p1522_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>OPUNOHU BAY. ISLE MOOREA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>As my wardrobe will by that time be considerably the worse for +wear, you will do well to send out a box of sundry garments to +await my arrival, otherwise I shall be reduced to appearing in a +graceful drapery of <i>tappa</i>, with fringes of crimson dracæna leaves; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>but though the dress of Oceania is very becoming to the young +and beautiful, the world of Sydney is hardly up to it,—and besides, +I fear it would be scarcely suitable for old grand-aunts +(<i>presque grand’mère</i>), as one of my French friends put it yesterday! +It certainly is rather a shame to let you have all this +trouble, while I have the fun of exploring such strange lands; but +it is a sort of division of labour, whereby you pay your tax to the +family locomotive demon, who drives all the rest of us so hard, +but leaves you in peace in Britain, to do your share of wandering +by deputy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now, as it is getting late, I must turn in, as I want to be up at +grey dawn to see beautiful Moorea (the Eimeo of our childhood), +and we shall sail close past it, as we make Papeete harbour. So +good-night.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In Harbour, Papeete, Tahiti</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Sunday Morning, 7th Oct</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Well, we have reached Tahiti, but really I am beginning to fear +that, like most things to which we have long looked forward, this +is likely to prove disappointing. We came in this morning in a +howling storm, <i>un gros coup de vent</i>, and everything looked dismal. +Though we coasted all along Moorea, the envious clouds capped +the whole isle, only showing a peak here and there. Certainly +such glimpses as we did catch were weirdly grand; huge basaltic +pinnacles of most fantastic shape towering from out the sea of +billowy white clouds, which drifted along those black crags. And +below the cloud canopy lay deep ravines, smothered in densest +foliage, extending right down to the grey dismal sea, which broke +in thunder on the reef. With strong wind and tide against us as +we crossed from Moorea to Tahiti, you can fancy what a relief it +was when, passing by a narrow opening through the barrier-reef, +we left the great tossing waves outside, and found ourselves in this +calm harbour, which to-day is sullen and grey as a mountain-tarn. +At first we could see literally nothing of the land; but it is now a +little clearer, and through the murky mist we see a fine massive +mountain rising above a great gorge beyond the town. But in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>general effect of beauty this is certainly not equal to Ovalau, and +even the town looks little better than Levuka,<a id='r34'></a><a href='#f34' class='c017'><sup>[34]</sup></a> though it is +certainly more poetic, the houses being all smothered in foliage. +But then it is fine-weather foliage—all hybiscus and bread-fruit,—the +former, of that very blue-green tint, which in rain looks as grey +as an olive-grove; while each glossy leaf of the bread-fruit is a +mirror, which exactly reflects the condition of the weather—glancing +bright in sunlight, but to-day only repeating the dull hue of +the leaden clouds.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For indeed it is a dreary grey day, sea and sky alike dull and +colourless, all in keeping with the sad news with which the pilot +greeted us as he came on board—namely, that Queen Pomare died +a fortnight ago (on the 17th September); so we have just missed +seeing the good old queen of my infantile romantic visions. Her +eldest son, Prince Ariiaue, has been proclaimed king under the +hereditary name, and is henceforth to be known as Pomare V.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the people are all in deepest dule, and instead of the great +rejoicings and balls, and <i>himènes</i>, and varied delights of the <i>fête +Napoléon</i> (or rather its republican substitute, the anniversary of +the Protectorate), on the 9th October, for which we had expected to +find joyous crowds assembled—always ready for an excuse for +music and dancing—a festival to which my friends have been +looking forward all the voyage,—instead of this, we see the +crowds pouring out of the native church, all dressed in the deepest +mourning, from their crape-trimmed black hats, to their black +flowing robes, which are worn from the throat, and with sleeves +down to the wrist; they trail on the ground in sweeping trains, +and are so long in front that even the bare feet are covered.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There are no flowers, no fragrant wreaths, no arrowroot crowns, +no snowy plumes of <i>reva-reva</i>—even the beautiful raven tresses of +the women have all been cut off. This is mourning with a vengeance; +and the Court circular has commanded that the whole +nation shall wear the garb of woe for six months. I do hope that +at least the commoners will disobey this injunction! At present +all the men appear like black crows. Apparently many are disfigured +<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>by foreign dress-coats; and even those who retain the +national <i>pareo</i> (which is the Tahitian word for <i>sulu</i> or waist-cloth) +are wearing black <i>tappa</i> or black calico; and their heads are closely +cropped. So sadly disfiguring! and so terribly subversive of all +our preconceived visions of Papeete, as the very ideal of light, and +mirth, and soft sunlit colour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The even tenor of life in Tahiti has received several startling +shocks since the 24th August, when the French Admiral Serre arrived +here in the steam-frigate Magicienne, bringing the new governor, +M. Brunnet Millet. But, sad to say, Madame Brunnet Millet +died on the voyage from sheer sea-sickness; and her poor husband, +who adored her, became positively imbecile from grief, so that he +had to resign office immediately on his arrival.</p> + +<p class='c008'>His natural successor would have been M. La Barbe, who, however, +had made himself generally obnoxious to the Tahitians, and +to the queen in particular, by the injudiciously severe penalties +which he enforced for some of her son’s peccadilloes. She therefore +wrote to the admiral to say that if La Barbe became governor, +she would at once leave Tahiti and retire to Moorea, thus leaving +all business at a dead-lock. Thereupon the admiral promised that +her will should be respected, and announced that he would himself +assume the office of governor, till such time as a fresh appointment +could be made in Paris. La Barbe remonstrated. The admiral +bade him be silent. He persisted, and was immediately placed +under arrest for fourteen days, at the end of which time his sword +was returned to him, and he had to put it on, and go to thank the +admiral formally for his goodness in restoring it! But as his +presence in the Isles would thenceforth have been unpleasant, he +and his wife and grown-up son, together with M. Brunnet Millet, +have been shipped as passengers on board La Loire, which is now +lying alongside of us, on the eve of sailing for France. She is a +great big line-of-battle ship, transformed into a transport, for the +conveyance of convicts from France to New Caledonia, but returns +comparatively empty. So far, her passenger list does not sound +cheerful!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The moment we reached our moorings, a boat was despatched in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>hot haste to convey to the admiral the despatches concerning the +little episode in Samoa. I fear our kind captain is not free from +misgivings as to the light in which that unlucky business may be +viewed by his superior officer.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Sunday Evening</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Alas! alas! the wretched Samoan adventure has indeed ended +most lamentably. The admiral, who from all accounts is a very +severe stern man, had no sooner read Captain Aube’s report, than +he signalled for him to go on board La Magicienne, and informed +him, that as <i>he</i> was quite incapable of understanding his line of +action at Samoa, the only thing he could do was to send him back +to France, as a passenger in La Loire, that he might himself explain +his motives at headquarters;<a id='r35'></a><a href='#f35' class='c017'><sup>[35]</sup></a> in short, he removed him from +his command of the Seignelay.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Ten minutes later, the fine old sailor returned on board the vessel +that was no longer his, to announce this dreadful news to his +officers, on whom the blow fell like a thunderbolt. For, as I have +told you, they have all lived together on the most cordial terms; +and no family, losing a dearly loved father, could be more utterly +wretched than are all on board, both officers and men. Many +fairly broke down; and I am sure I do not wonder, for it is a +lamentable break-up of <i>such</i> a happy ship-family. What a <i>bouleversement</i> +of all the pleasant pictures we were conjuring up only +last night! Certainly this is a very heavy penalty for what was, +at the worst, an error in judgment.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The regret on shore is almost as great as on the vessel; for +Commandant Aube is well known here, and exceedingly popular +with all the foreign residents, who had hoped that he would be +appointed Governor of Tahiti. This is a grievous ending to our +delightful voyage, and I need not tell you how downhearted I feel +about it all. I could almost wish that we had never gone near +miserable Samoa, with all its jars and hatreds.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>I must close this letter, as the little mail-schooner Nautilus sails +for San Francisco in the morning, taking as passengers Monseigneur +Elloi and M. Pinart. They hope to be able so to represent +matters at Washington and in Paris as to put the Samoan episode +in the best possible light.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I grieve to say the bishop is very ill; all these worries are very +trying to him, and he loses ground daily. The prospect of so long +a voyage in a little schooner of about 200 tons, with very mixed +society, is anything but pleasant for an invalid, and a trying change +from the comforts of the big ship. The actual distance is 4000 +miles, and the voyage may be made in twenty-five days. But with +contrary winds, the distance is sometimes increased to 6000 miles, +and the voyage occupies six weeks! So I cannot tell at what date +this letter will reach you.—Good-bye.<a id='r36'></a><a href='#f36' class='c017'><sup>[36]</sup></a></p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>the Rev. James Green</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>London Mission</span>, <i>9th Oct.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>To-day has concluded the tragedy. Last night (after a farewell +dinner with his officers, and a few touching last words to his men, +who wept bitterly, sobbing aloud like children, and who cheered +him lustily as he left the ship) Commandant Aube came ashore to +take leave of his friends here, and at the British consulate. He +was accompanied by his faithful dog, Fox, a poor sickly hound, on +whom he has lavished infinite care and kindness throughout the +voyage, but which he will leave here in charge of a Tahitian; so +he starts on this sad voyage without even his dog as a companion. +We escorted him to the shore, and sorrowfully watched his boat +making for La Loire, the old line-of-battle ship, which sailed this +morning with so sad a company. The poor Seignelay had the +odious task of towing her out of harbour; and, as the ships parted, +all the men burst into uncontrollable shouts of “Vive notre commandant!”—a +spontaneous demonstration, which must have been +more satisfactory to its hero than to the stern admiral.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>Just then an accident happened, which might have proved very +serious. La Loire accidentally slipped a great tow-rope, which got +entangled in the screw of the Seignelay; and, misunderstanding the +signal to lower sail, the ponderous old vessel nearly ran down the +lighter steam-ship, which could neither work her screw nor answer +to her helm, but had to hoist sail and run before the wind. Being +unable to turn, she had to sail straight out to sea for some hours, +far out of sight.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I watched this inexplicable movement from the semaphore—a +high station commanding a magnificent view of town and harbour, +and of the distant isle of Moorea. The old sailor in charge was +as much perplexed as myself. He decided that the Seignelay +must have been despatched to the Marquesas or elsewhere, with +secret orders; while I decided that she must have “revolutioned,” +and gone off to France. However, this evening she returned, +under sail, and was able to go to the assistance of a vessel +that had drifted on to the reef; so, on the whole, it was rather a +fortunate episode, as it helped to distract the thoughts of all on +board.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Most of the residents here, bitterly as they regret the whole +business, seem to agree that the admiral has really taken the wisest +course, both as preventing (in the sense of <i>prévenant</i>) any possible +remonstrance from England—in case she should espouse the cause +of that very shady Anglo-American Fijian-Samoan house, with its +convenient variety of flags—and perhaps, also, as saving M. Aube +from harder judgment in France. But of course none of the +officers can realise what a foolish episode that night’s work appears +to every one here.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have not yet told you anything of my own movements. +On Sunday afternoon, M. de Gironde escorted me to the British +consulate, there duly to report myself to Mr Miller, who for thirty +years has been England’s popular representative here; indeed he +has never left Tahiti since the day he first landed here, with his +bright, sensible, little Peruvian bride. Now they have three +grown-up sons, and a pleasant daughter, married to M. Fayzeau, +a French naval officer, in charge of native affairs. He is a charming +<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>musician, and most graceful artist, and has promised to make +my way easy for several sketching expeditions.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I had not been an hour ashore, when (on the strength of a letter +of introduction from Dr Turner of Malua) I received the very +kindest invitation from Mr and Mrs Green to come and stay with +them in this their lovely home, just out of the town, and close to +the consulate—a delightful nest, embowered in mango and bread-fruit +trees, with oleanders and hybiscus to lend colour to the whole. +It is only separated from the sea by the pleasant garden and a belt +of turf; so there is nothing to impede the view of the beautiful +harbour and blue peaks of Moorea, while the valley behind the +house runs up to a background of fine hills, which all to-day have +been bathed in soft sunlight—that clear shining that comes after +rain.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On one side of the little lawn stands a noble old banyan-tree, +from the very heart of which grows a tall cocoa-palm,—a curious +tree-marriage, greatly admired by the people; but in an evil hour +an idiotic surveyor ascended this tree to take observations, and +fastened a wire to the primary fronds, thereby of course cutting +them, and so killing the palm, which now remains a poor dead +monument of ignorant stupidity. The banyan suffers from another +cause. The Tahitians believe that a decoction of its brown +filaments and rootlets is a certain remedy for some forms of illness. +They are therefore continually appealing to Mr Green for permission +to cut them; and thus the growth of the tree is considerably +checked. However, it covers a sufficient space to form a famous +playground for the children, of whom there are a cheery little +flock, though here, as in most remote colonies, the absence of all +the elder ones forms the chief drawback to the happiness of their +parents. But education in all its aspects has to be sought elsewhere +than in beautiful Tahiti, by those who do not wish their +families to become altogether insular; and my host and hostess +retain far too loving memories of their own early homes in Wiltshire +and Devon to allow their children to grow up estranged from +their English kinsfolk.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This, like the majority of houses here, is a wooden bungalow, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>one storey high, with verandah, on to which all rooms alike open—by +far the coolest and most suitable form of building for the +tropics. But there are a number of two and three-storeyed houses +in the town, inhabited by French officials and foreign merchants—notably +the French governor’s house, and the unfinished “palace,” +which has been in slow progress for many years.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the former, Admiral Serre now holds the reins. Stern +though he be in public matters, he is wonderfully kind and +pleasant socially, and seems to guide his iron hand with much +wisdom in carrying out the course of action he has marked out +for himself. As you know, he had scarcely determined on taking +the government into his own hands when Queen Pomare died +quite suddenly, to the exceeding grief of her people. Great was +their anxiety as to what course the French would now adopt,—the +royal family being so much at sixes and sevens that there was very +good reason to fear that even the semblance of the ancient rule +would henceforth be dispensed with.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Instead of this, the admiral devoted his whole energies to bringing +together its various branches—healing their breaches, inculcating +sobriety (with marvellous success so far), and generally +getting them into a satisfactory condition. Queen Pomare’s two +eldest sons, Ariiaue and Tamatoa, have been very naughty boys, +in most respects. The former has married a very handsome girl, +aged seventeen—Marau Salmon; but hitherto the marriage has +not proved happy. Tamatoa was for a while King of Raiatea; +but was apt to carry on such dangerous games when he was drunk, +that his subjects drove him out of the island. He is, however, +very clever and amusing, and is blessed with an adoring wife—a +very charming and excellent woman, as good as she is bonnie; +Moë is her pretty name. Queen Pomare’s third son, Joinville, +died leaving a son. The fourth, Tevii Tapunui, is a very good +fellow, but sadly lame.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Well, by dint of coaxing and reasoning, and by turns assuming +the part of father and “governor,” the admiral first of all persuaded +Ariiaue and Marau to make up the peace, and then proclaimed +them King and Queen as Pomare V. and Marau Pomare—a ceremony +<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>of which I have just read full particulars in the ‘Messager +de Tahiti,’ which, under the heading, “Le prince royal Ariiaue est +salué roi des Iles de la Société et dépendances,” gives a detailed +account of the meeting of the Legislative Assembly of Tahiti, +convened by “<span lang="fr">M. le Contre-Amiral Serre Commandant-en-chef, +Commandant provisoire des Etablissements français de +l’Océanie, pour reconnaître et acclamer le nouveau souverain de +Tahiti</span>.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Legislative Assembly received with acclamation the decisions +of the omnipotent admiral, who not only proclaimed Ariiaue +king, but has further settled the succession for two generations to +come. Queen Marau being half English, any child to which she +may give birth is excluded from the throne in favour of the little +Princess Teriivaetua, daughter of the king’s brother Tamatoa, and +the charming Moë, ex-King and Queen of Raiatea—thus securing +the pure Tahitian blood-royal. Failing issue of the little Princess +Vaetua, the succession is to pass to her cousin, Prince Terriihinoiatua, +commonly called Hinoi—a very handsome boy, son of the +third royal brother, now deceased, who was known as the Prince +de Joinville.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These decisions are said to have given great satisfaction to the +Tahitians, who, with very good reason, had feared that, on the +death of the old queen, the French would take the nominal power +as well as the real, which they have so long held.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Pomare’s proud independent spirit must have chafed sorely +under their tutelage; but she contrived to endure it for thirty-five +years. She was just sixty-five when she died, having been born +on the 28th February 1813.</p> + +<p class='c008'>She was the only daughter of King Pomare II., who was the +very first friend of the missionaries when they attempted to get a +footing in these isles, and proved their stanch supporter to the end +of his days.<a id='r37'></a><a href='#f37' class='c017'><sup>[37]</sup></a> His daughter’s name was Aimata. In the year +1822 she married the young chief of Tahaa, who had received the +name of Pomare as a mark of special favour from the old king. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>Thus Aimata became known as Pomare-Vahine;<a id='r38'></a><a href='#f38' class='c017'><sup>[38]</sup></a> the correct designation +for a married woman being thus to append the term for +wife to the name of the husband. In January 1827 she succeeded +her brother, Pomare III., and reigned supreme till 1843, when the +French assumed the Protectorate.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Young Queen Marau Pomare is one of a large family of very +handsome half-whites—children of a high chiefess of Tahiti, who +married a much respected English Jew, Mr Salmon. She has +three stalwart sons and five most comely daughters, whose rich +olive complexion, black silken tresses, mellifluous voices, and foreign +intonation in speaking English, are all suggestive of Italy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The eldest daughter, who owns the formidable title of Tetuanuireiaiteruiatea—though, +happily, known to her personal friends +by the more euphonious name of Titaua—is herself a very high +chiefess both of Tahiti and Moorea, on each of which she owns +several large estates. At the early age of fourteen she married a +wealthy Scotch merchant—Mr Brander—who died a few months +ago, leaving to his young widow a heavy weight of care, in that +her two eldest daughters have married Germans, whose mercantile +interests are diametrically opposed to those of the house of Brander; +and who, having vainly striven to wrest the business from her, +are now pressing for immediate division of property—a process +which necessitates a most exasperating amount of legal discussion, +in which questions of English law, native law, and, above all, the +Code Napoléon, which is the law of the Protectorate, crop up by +turns.<a id='r39'></a><a href='#f39' class='c017'><sup>[39]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Moetia, the second daughter of Mrs Salmon, married the +American Consul, Mr Attwater. Marau, as you already know, +married her royal kinsman; while Lois (commonly called Prie, +which is a contraction of Beretanie—a name adopted out of compliment +to Britain) and Manihinihi, the two youngest sisters (who +both fully sustain the beauty of their race), live with their mother—a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>very fine old lady, whose long native name I cannot tell you, +but her ordinary signature is Ariitaimai. She was a cousin of the +late queen, and is said greatly to resemble her.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Her three sons are Taati, Naarii, and Ariipaea—all tall and +powerfully-built men.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The system of adopting children, which prevails here, is very +confusing and very peculiar. Every family seems to have at least +one belonging to some other family. A child is generally bespoken +before it is born, and as soon as it is weaned it may be claimed by +its adoptive parents, who give it a new name, by which it is thenceforth +known, and who become responsible for it in every respect—for +its feeding and its education. The child is at perfect liberty +to pass unquestioned from one home to another; so if its second +father or mother chance to annoy it, it goes and takes up its abode +with its real parents till it feels inclined to return to the others. +When these die, it inherits their property on equal terms with +their real children. You can imagine that where relationships are +very intricate to begin with, these additional blendings of families +create a most bewildering interweaving.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then all the intermarriages of the principal families add to the +confusion. Every one on Tahiti, Eimeo, Bora-Bora, and the +Society Isles generally, seems to be related to every one else, at +least among the high chiefs. In no corner of the earth is there +a greater respect for good ancestry—nowhere is “a lang pedigree” +more prized. The most singular point, however, is, that +whereas in a proposed marriage between two persons, both having +Tahitian blood (whether pure or partial does not matter), the +greatest anxiety is manifested to prove that blood sufficiently blue, +and any suggestion on the part of a high chief of wishing to wed +a maiden of low degree calls forth a storm of indignation from all +his relations; yet if a Tahitian woman of the highest class chooses +to marry a European of very dubious rank by birth, not a voice is +raised in opposition. I believe the solution of this curious point +lies in the fact that here, as in Fiji, a child takes rank from his +mother, so that he is in many instances a much more important +person than his father. It is the same peculiarity which I pointed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>out to you, when writing from Fiji, respecting the customs of its +chiefs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have just heard that a very leaky ship is to sail for Sydney +to-morrow, and a better one starts for New Zealand next week; so +in order to lose no chance of a letter reaching you, I shall despatch +this <i>viâ</i> Sydney, and send you another <i>viâ</i> New Zealand. Meanwhile, +good-bye.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XI.<br> <span class='c009'>PAPEETE—CATHOLIC MISSION—PROTESTANT MISSION—A CHRISTENING PARTY—LA MAISON BRANDÈRE—TALES OF THE PAST—EVENINGS IN TAHITI—LA MUSIQUE—PLANS—SUNDAY.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><i>Care of the</i> <span class='sc'>Rev. James Green</span>,</div> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Paofai, Papeete, Tahiti</span>, <i>Saturday, 13th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dearest Nell</span>,—It is high time I sent you a cheerier letter than +the last, which was written just after our dreary arrival in a dismal +storm, and further overshadowed by the distressing manner in +which our happy party was so summarily dispersed. With the +exception of that one sad cloud, no drawback of any sort has arisen. +The cordial kindness of every creature here, the easy luxury of +very simple social life, a heavenly climate, and the dream-like loveliness +of the isles, all combine to make up as charming a whole as +can possibly be conceived. It is the sort of place in which one is +made to feel at home at once: from the moment I landed every +one seems to have tried what he or she could do for the enjoyment +of the stranger. It is a region of true hospitality.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Certainly this is a very pretty little town. Its simple village +streets are all laid out as <i>boulevards</i>, and form pleasant shady +avenues, the commonest tree being the pretty yellow hybiscus with +the claret-coloured heart, so common in Fiji, where it is called +<i>surya</i>. Here its name is <i>boorau</i>. The names of the streets recall +Parisian memories. The shadiest and widest street is the Chinese +quarter, and its poor little wooden houses are Chinese stores and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>tea-shops. It rejoices in the name of Rue de Pologne, while the +principal real street is the Rue de Rivoli, where are merchants’ +stores, <i>cafés</i>, grog-shops, and even hotels of some sort. Of course +the pleasantest locations are those which face the harbour and +catch the sweet sea-breeze; and the largest stores for provisions +and dry goods are in the Rue de Commerce, each possessing its +own wharf. I fear the word wharf may suggest the dirty prosaic +wharves of England, an idea which you must banish at once; for +business in its dingy aspect is not obtrusive, and the harbour-wall +is but a stone coping for soft green turf, where girls with light +rods sit fishing, and market-boats land their cargo of gay fruit and +fish, while the motley throng pass and repass—Tahitians, French +sailors and soldiers, Chinamen, black-robed French priests, and all +the nondescript nationalities from the ships.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There is a considerable foreign population, including, of course, +a large staff of French officials of all sorts—civil, naval, and military—and +their presence seems a <i>raison d’être</i> for a strong corps of +<i>gens d’armes</i>, who otherwise would certainly seem an incongruous +element in the South Seas.</p> + +<p class='c008'>By a recent census I learn that the native population of Tahiti +is somewhere about 8000; that of Moorea, 1500. That there are +in the group 830 French, 144 citizens of the United States, 230 +British subjects, and about 700 Chinese.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French have both a Protestant and Roman Catholic Mission. +The former was made necessary by the fact that, on the +establishment of the Protectorate in 1843, the English missionaries +were subjected to such very oppressive regulations as greatly impeded +their ministrations among the people, all of whom were at +that time Christians, and, moreover, still in the fervour of first +love—a love which, it is to be feared, has now in a great measure +faded to the light of common day, as might be expected from the +large influx of infidel, or at best, wholly indifferent, foreigners.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Church of Rome having resolved to proselytise this already +occupied field, sent here a bishop and many priests, with a supplementary +staff of “Frères et Sœurs de Charité.” I think the Sisters +are of the order St Joseph de.... The foreigners connected +<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>with the Catholic mission number in all about forty persons. +They have had large aid and encouragement from the French +Government, who compelled the chiefs of Tahiti and Moorea to +build a church for their use in each district. Nevertheless, out +of the 8000 inhabitants, 300 nominal adherents is the maximum +which the Catholics themselves have ever claimed, but fifty is said +to be nearer the mark.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French Protestant Mission, however, found it desirable to +send French subjects to the support of the London Mission, of +which Mr Green is now the only representative. His coadjutors +are M. Viennot, M. Vernier, and M. Brun—all married men and +<i>pères de famille</i>. The latter is <i>pasteur</i> of Moorea. M. Viennot +has a large Protestant school both for boys and girls of pure French +and pure Tahitian blood, and of all shades of mixed race. We +went to see his charming house, which is the most romantic nest, +for a school, that you can well imagine, with wide verandahs and a +large pleasant garden. Several of the daughters of the early English +missionaries assist in teaching; and everything about the +establishment seems bright and healthy in tone.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The third French <i>pasteur</i>, M. Vernier, was a student friend of +Lord Lorne’s at Geneva (under Merle d’Aubigné), and returned +with him to Inveraray for three months, ere resuming his own +studies for a while in Edinburgh. Consequently he retains most +loving recollections of everything linked with those very happy +days; and it struck me pleasantly, in this far-away isle, to find in +his little drawing-room many familiar photographs of Inveraray faces +and places. Now his pretty wife is mother of half-a-dozen typical +French little ones, the youngest of whom was the hero of a very +pleasant dinner-party, given by his parents the night before last, in +honour of his baptism. There were about a dozen persons present, +including all the members of the Protestant Mission, Captain +Guignon of the Bossuet (a most friendly trading vessel belonging +to the firm of Messrs Tandonnet of Bordeaux), and myself. All +the time of dinner, the <i>petit nouveau-baptisé</i> was laid on the floor, +where he rolled about laughing and crowing with delight, while +the other children played quietly beside him. It was a scene of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>graceful home life, and illustrates the easy unconventional pleasures +of social existence in this sweet isle.<a id='r40'></a><a href='#f40' class='c017'><sup>[40]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>It certainly is very strange how one invariably finds home links +in all corners of the earth. If there was one place more unlikely +than another to do so, I should have thought it was Tahiti. But, +as usual, I find myself quite <i>en pays de connaissance</i>. The day +after I landed, Mrs Miller drove me in her nice pony-phaeton to +call on Mrs Brander. I naturally expected that our conversation +would be on purely insular subjects. Imagine my astonishment +when, after the first greetings, this beautiful Anglo-Tahitian turned +the conversation to Scotland—Morayshire, Speyside, Elgin, and +many friends there—and spoke of them all from intimate personal +acquaintance!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then, for the first time, it flashed across me that the name which +had become so familiar to my ear as that of <i>la Maison Brandère</i>, +was simply that of a county neighbour in Scotland; and that Mr +Brander of Tahiti was none other than a half-brother of Lady +Dunbar Brander,<a id='r41'></a><a href='#f41' class='c017'><sup>[41]</sup></a> who in his early youth left Elgin and went forth +to carve his fortune in foreign lands. You know how little interest +people in Britain take in watching the career of such lads, +unless they chance to come home to spend their gold. Mr Brander +did not come home. He found in the South Seas a field for his +vast energies—embarked in trade, added ship to ship till he owned +a considerable fleet, and so his connection spread from group to +group; and he bought lands and built stores on all manner of +remote isles, and in course of time amassed a gigantic fortune. +His marriage with Titaua Salmon must have tended greatly to +secure his position in these isles; and so his business went on ever +increasing, till at length mind and body broke down under the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>constant strain, and he died, leaving the whole care of his immense +business to his young widow, who is only thirty-four now, the +eldest of her nine children having been born when she was fifteen! +She is the mother of as pretty a covey as you could wish to see, +beginning with two lovely grown-up married daughters and one or +two grandchildren, and ending with two darling little girls, one of +whom bears the charming name of Paloma, the dove.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mr Brander most wisely resolved that his wife’s brothers and +his own sons should have the advantage of a first-rate education in +Britain. Several of the boys are still at school at St Andrews, +whence Alexander, the eldest, recently came out here; but he must +shortly return to England, to look after property belonging to his +father.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In all these far countries people talk of a run to England and +back as if it was the veriest trifle!—merely a run of fifty or sixty +days, <i>viâ</i> San Francisco, and across the United States; or, if +economy has to be considered, a voyage of 140 days in a sailing-ship +round Cape Horn!</p> + +<p class='c008'>This afternoon Mme. Fayzeau took me for an exquisite drive +into the country. We drove along the shore on a road of fine +green turf, skirting the lovely calm lagoon, and passing by an endless +succession of small wooden houses, each almost hidden in +bowers of blossom and shady fruit trees, with pleasant lawns, +where merry children played, while their elders sat or lay on mats +sewing, or twining wreaths, or rolling cigarettes—all suggesting +lives of easy-going happiness without undue care; and the air was +made musical by rippling laughter and mellifluous voices.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I scarcely know why it is that Tahitian sounds so much more +attractive than the sterner Tongan tongue. Individual words are +actually less liquid, because of the frequent use of the aspirate. I +am told, as rather a curious fact, that whereas the Samoans and +Tongans are so very profuse in their expression of the word +“thanks,” the Tahitians, like the New Zealanders, have no equivalent +for it.</p> +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/p1682_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>LE DIADÈME. AVENUE DE FAUTAWA.<br> TAHITI.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>For love of his master, we went to see Commandant Aube’s poor +sick dog Fox, and learnt that it died very soon after his departure. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>Then we drove through a most beautiful wide avenue of dark-green +trees, something like the Caroba, or locust-trees of Malta, +completely overshadowing the broad green drive. And now we +were facing the mountains in the centre of the isle, and looked up +the lovely valley of Fautawa, at the head of which towers a magnificent +hill, so symmetrically indented as to resemble a gigantic +crown. Hence its common name, Le Diadème, though to the +natives it is still Maiauo.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Returning towards Papeete, we met many carriages and equestrians; +for here there is no lack of either. Most of the gentlemen +were making their way to a river, which is a favourite bathing-place; +and I need not tell you that a river-bath is one of the chief +delights of a day in the tropics.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander had invited us all to dine at The Red House, which +is her town home—a large three-storeyed red-brick house. There, +amongst other friends, we met a very delightful old lady, Mrs +Simpson—a true “mother in Israel.” Widow of one of the early +missionaries, she shared in all his labours, and in the joy of beholding +the dawn of Christianity, when its first rays dispelled the +dark night of heathenism. Many a wondrous change have those +clear observant eyes witnessed in her half-century of working life +in these fair isles, and many a tale of thrilling interest has she to +tell of scenes enacted within her own recollection.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course, with the advance of civilisation, many of the picturesque +elements of earlier days have passed away. The natives no +longer assemble on shore to practise their writing lessons on the +smooth sea-beach; neither do they carry sand into the schools, +that, by spreading it on a closely-woven mat or rude table, it may +serve as a simple slate on which to work out the puzzles of arithmetic. +The advanced scholars no longer seek for smooth stones +on the mountains, to be polished with sea-sand till fine writing +can be traced on them with the spines of the echini.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nor are the large leaves of the plantain used as letter-paper on +which to send messages, written with a blunt stick, which bruised +the delicate leaf without cutting it, and so produced a tracing of +brown writing on a glossy green surface. These letters were rolled +<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>up like a sheet of parchment and tied with a strip of bark. A +plantain-leaf being about fifteen inches wide, and perhaps six feet +in length, would allow of a very long message being written on +one scroll, and answered very well, provided the letter had not far +to travel; but of course the leaf would shrivel and split within a +few days. Now letters are written on common note-paper, and +bear the postage-stamps of the French Republic.</p> + +<p class='c008'>No longer are children summoned to school, and congregations +to worship, by the king’s messenger, lightly draped, but gaily +wreathed, passing swiftly round the village, blowing loud blasts on +his great trumpet-shell, and pausing at intervals to invite the presence +of the people. Now his place is filled by the very commonplace +bell of civilised life.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the matter of dress, too,—though we may be thankful that +Prince Alfred’s strong commendation of the graceful <i>sacque</i> has +caused it to triumph over all varieties of changeful and unbecoming +fashion, which for a while found favour here, and which ere +now have covered these comely heads with English bonnets and +close-fitting white caps (!)—the artistic eye would certainly prefer +the dress of olden days: that of the women consisting of soft +drapery of beautiful cream-coloured native cloth, wound round the +body, passed under one arm and knotted on the other shoulder, +revealing the shapely neck and arm, while gay garlands wreathed +their hair; and for ear-rings, some wore a fragrant blossom +passed through one ear, and, in the other, two or three large pearls +fastened together with finely braided human hair.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The men, so many of whom have now adopted coat and trousers, +then wore either a very finely plaited, fringed mat, or a <i>pareo</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, +kilt of native cloth, made either from the bark of the paper-mulberry +or that of the bread-fruit, or else from the filaments of the +banyan-tree. Of these the former was the whitest, and preferred +for women; the latter was very thin and brown. The cloth made +from the bark of the bread-fruit was very strong, and was dyed +according to taste—either of a rich chocolate, a brilliant yellow, or +red. The two last were the favourite colours, and were obtained +from the sap and berries of different trees. Sometimes the cloth +<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>was reversible—being black on one side and red on the other, and +varnished with vegetable gum to enrich the colour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some wore this handsome material as a cloak—falling from the +shoulders in flowing drapery, very becoming to a stately chief. +Others wore it as a <i>tiputa</i> or tippet, which resembled the poncho +of South America—being simply a long piece of cloth, with a hole +cut in the centre, through which to pass the head, the garment +falling over the back and chest and reaching to the knees. Sometimes +this <i>tiputa</i> was beautifully ornamented; and often it was +made of curiously knotted fibre—generally that of the hybiscus, +from which fine fishing-nets were also made. Those who could +afford such luxury wore head-dresses made of the long tail-feathers +of the graceful tropic bird; and the poorest wore gay flowers. +But these were discarded in favour of regular English hats, and +the scarlet feathers were used as trimming for shabby black coats. +Proud was the man who became possessed of a pair of trousers, to +be displayed alternately on legs or arms! In short, the spirit of +innovation was attended with the usual hideous incongruities.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Instead of the big European boats of the present day, with +nothing distinctive except the form of their quaint triangular sail, +there were formerly fleets of canoes of every size up to 100 feet in +length, with grotesque carving on the raised stern and prow, and +flags and streamers of native cloth. They carried large sails of +yellow matting, made from the long leaves of the screw-pine,<a id='r42'></a><a href='#f42' class='c017'><sup>[42]</sup></a> +which was much lighter than the canvas of civilisation, but also +much less durable. Here again the picturesque element has +suffered. In those days there were war canoes and chiefs’ canoes, +single canoes, and double canoes—like Siamese twins; and in +every fleet there was always a sacred canoe, that the presence of +the tribal god might not be lacking.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The gods of Tahiti seem to have been simple enough: some +were in the form of a large bird, others were merely a hollow +cylinder ornamented with bright feathers. The blue shark was +deified, and had temples erected in his honour, and a special priesthood; +he was chiefly worshipped by fishermen, though few whose +<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>path lay over the great waters would fail to propitiate so powerful +and cruel a foe. Terrible are the stories of canoes which have +been disabled and water-logged, and of the hungry sharks that +have gathered round in shoals, and picked off the crew one by one, +till the canoe, thus lightened, could float again; and perhaps one +survivor has escaped to tell of his comrades’ fate.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When Pomare II. determined to become a Christian, his first +decided act was to show the people with what contempt he now +regarded the gods of his ancestors, to whom the turtle had ever +been held sacred. It was invariably cooked with sacred fire +within the precincts of the temple, and a portion was always +offered to the idol. A turtle having been presented to the king, +his followers were about to carry it to the <i>marae</i>, when he called +them back, and bade them prepare an oven and bake it like +ordinary food, without regard to the idol. Great was the consternation +of the attendants, who tremblingly obeyed, and watched +the king himself cut up the turtle and begin to eat. He vainly +endeavoured to induce those who were with him to share this +impious feast: they looked for some immediate manifestation of +divine anger, and expected to see the king stricken before their +eyes. Great was their wonder when no harm befell him, either +on that day or on the morrow; and thus the first step was taken +towards the overthrow of the old superstition.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was a simple but effectual test, and one which required considerable +courage on the part of him who first dared to try it. +Pomare, on this occasion, did for the people of Tahiti what Queen +Kapiolani did for those of Hawaii, when, descending to the brink +of the awesome crater, she defied the goddess Pélé by eating the +blue berries held sacred to her, and which none dared to taste +without first throwing a handful as an offering to Pélé.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In like manner did Pomare-Vahine, daughter of the King of +Raiatea, teach the same lesson to the chiefs of Eimeo, who had +brought her a great <i>faamuraa</i>, or feeding—<i>i.e.</i>, a gift of roasted +pigs, fowls, fish, fruit, and vegetables. According to custom, the +priests were present to crave the blessing of the gods on the whole +feast, by first selecting the portions to be offered on the altars. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>But ere the heathen priests could make their choice, the Christian +chiefess bade her head man consecrate the whole by thanksgiving +to the Almighty. The crowd of bystanders looked on in wonder, +and the priests retired, not venturing to claim for idol altars the +food which, they felt, had thus been offered to the Most High.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Many such tales might I now hear and preserve for your benefit, +could I but find time to listen with an undivided mind.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But there is so much that is new to hear and to see, that I +hardly feel able to disentangle the threads of so many subjects, +which, apparently, are all interwoven one with another. Doubtless, +by degrees, they will arrange themselves in a more orderly +fashion.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the evening we all walked home together, by a pleasant path +along the grassy shore, passing through a dark thicket of large +hybiscus trees, then beneath tall cocoa-palms, whose every frond +lay clearly shadowed by the brilliant light of only a crescent moon. +No full moon in England could shine with so soft a radiance.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The loveliness of the evenings here is indescribable; and well +do all the inhabitants know how to enjoy their beauty. Every +one saunters forth after dinner,—the general rendezvous being a +grassy lawn under the great trees near Government House, where +the admiral’s excellent band plays divinely, to the great delight of +the Tahitians, who are themselves most musical, and who assemble +in crowds, listening in rapt delight to the operatic airs, and then, +by irresistible impulse, dancing joyously on the turf, as valse and +galop succeed one another.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But nothing could be more orderly and respectable than this +mirthful crowd, which strikes me the more forcibly from the fact +that these are not the characteristics generally ascribed to Papeete, +but are in great measure due to the wholesome influence of Admiral +Serre and his officers, and to the excellent discipline of the ships +now in harbour. Of course when a rowdy ship comes in, it is +more difficult to preserve order; and as most accounts are written +by travellers who chance on these unlucky times (and perhaps help +to cause them), the place has got a worse name than it ever deserved. +So say the old inhabitants. Its present condition of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>extremely orderly good behaviour is, however, undoubtedly an +exceptional result of the admiral’s iron rule and stringent measures +for the general weal. Immediately on his arrival, he gave orders +that every damsel whose morals were recognised as lax, should be +at once deported from the gay capital. So, without further ado, +all such were shipped off to the seclusion of their various country +districts, or else to more rigid seclusion, in charge of the police,—only +coming forth to sweep the roads, which, consequently, are in +a state of exquisite cleanliness and neatness.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is not to be supposed that the present condition of preternatural +goodness will very long survive the departure of the +admiral, as many of the governors of the Protectorate seem rather +to encourage what the more staid residents deem unseemly frolic. +Many of these governors are not Frenchmen,—merely Creoles, +whom the Tahitians dislike exceedingly, and contemptuously describe +as <i>Paumuto-Frane</i> (Paumuto-men being Queen Pomare’s +pig-feeders, and <i>Frane</i> being the equivalent of French). Many +gross errors and maladministrations have crept in during their +rule; and the admiral is now devoting his whole great energies +to rectifying all manner of abuses, greatly to the satisfaction of +the Tahitians, with whom he is apparently immensely popular. +Moreover, he seems determined to deal even-handed justice between +the Protestant and Catholic teachers, which the latter by +no means appreciate, having so long been greatly favoured by the +Creole authorities.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Socially, in his double capacity of admiral and governor, he does +all in his power to make things pleasant for every one. For my +own part, I am bound to say that, from the very first evening of +our arrival, he has been unvaryingly courteous, and in every respect +most thoughtful for me. We meet very often, as he and some of +his suite invariably join Mrs Miller’s party every evening at the +band, after which they walk back with us along the beautiful +shore to the British consulate, where we generally have a second +concert, and much pleasant chat of the most polyglot order—English, +French, and Spanish, in about equal parts—with iced +lemonade and liqueurs to help the flow of words!</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>The only drawback to my enjoyment of all this is the feeling +that my late most kind <i>camarades</i> are so thoroughly out of it all. +Like Rachel bemoaning her little ones, they refuse to be comforted, +and nothing will induce any of them to come ashore to any place +where they might by any accident meet the admiral. Of course +this is rather uncomfortable for me; for though they all declare +themselves most anxious that I should be lionised in the best possible +manner (<i>i.e.</i>, officially), I fear it must seem to them as if I +had gone over to the enemy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Still, there is no alternative; and the kindness which is even +now arranging my future plans, is such that I can but accept it +gratefully.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Having proclaimed Ariiaue and Marau, King and Queen of the +Isles, the admiral is now making arrangements to escort them on +a grand ceremonial round of all the districts on each of the principal +isles, that they may personally receive the homage of their +people. It will be a very interesting occasion, calling forth whatever +still remains of old native customs. To my great delight, the +admiral has asked me to join this expedition. At first I treated +the suggestion as a mere civil <i>façon de parler</i>, no other lady having +been invited; little Vaetua (Moë’s daughter, the future queen) +being Marau’s only companion. However, on the following day +an A.D.C. brought me an invitation in due form, and the Millers +are delighted, and say it will be the nicest thing possible for me. +So of course, now, I have definitely accepted, and am looking +forward to the ploy with the greatest possible interest. There +are twenty districts in Tahiti, and the intention is to visit two +a day, which will make our picnic expedition a ten days’ pleasure; +after which we return here to make a fresh start for the beautiful +isle of Moorea.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>At eight o’clock Madame Fayzeau took me with her to the +Roman Catholic cathedral for the military Mass, at which all high +officials are expected to be present. Soldiers with fixed bayonets +stand on either side of the altar, and others down the aisle, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>present arms, kneel, stand up, &c., obedient to a loud word of command, +which, indeed, is the only word spoken aloud till the final +benediction and short chant. The organ plays the whole time, and +the congregation attend to their private devotions, or do not, as the +case may be. Apparently the fact of being present is sufficient. +Very few Tahitians attend the eight o’clock Mass. The general +congregation assemble at nine, when the service is audible, and a +sermon is preached, partly in Tahitian, partly in French.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After church we went to see the Sisters, some of whom are +engaged in nursing at the hospital, while the others teach in their +own school. Returning to the British consulate, we found a pleasant +naval breakfast-party; after which we enjoyed a calm peaceful +afternoon here, while Mr Green was engaged with some of his +teachers and classes. He has the charge of a very large native +church here, where he holds forenoon service, but frequently has +occasion to visit churches in other parts of the isle; and one of the +many irritating French regulations forbids his preaching in any +church but his own without a special permit, which has to be +applied for, and granted afresh, every week, and is often delayed +till the very last moment, so that he has to wait with his horse +ready harnessed, and then probably drive much faster than he +wishes, to reach his destination in time.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As each member of the mission has his own native work to +attend to, and as every one in the island understands Tahitian, the +only foreign service is one held on alternate Sunday evenings by +Mr Green and the French <i>pasteurs</i>. This evening it was in English, +according to the Congregational form, and ended with the Holy +Communion.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We had a lovely walk home, but remarked that the Parisian +observance of Sunday as a <i>jour de fête</i> has superseded that very +sacred reverence for the Lord’s Day, which is so striking a feature +in most of the Christianised isles. To-night the crowd at the band +was larger and noisier than usual, owing to the presence of many +French sailors, some of whom were nearly as drunk as an average +set of blue jackets, under similar circumstances, would probably +have been.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>With some anxiety, I noted a wide halo round the moon, and +devoutly trust it may not prove an evil symptom of the coming +weather; for to-morrow morning we start on our grand expedition +round the isle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now I must try to secure a good night’s rest, so shall close this +letter, which may take its chance of being taken to <i>some</i> point by +<i>some</i> vessel in the course of the next ten days.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Your Loving Sister.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XII.<br> <span class='c009'>SHORT SKETCH OF A ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>The Rev. James Green</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>25th October</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dear Lady Gordon</span>,—I have just heard that a vessel is about +to sail, and will carry mails, so, though I have not time to write at +length, I must send a few lines by her. Though antagonisms are +not perhaps so openly virulent here as in Samoa, there is nevertheless +such jealousy among the traders that they often try to sneak +out of harbour unknown to their neighbours, and so we have just +lost the chance of sending letters <i>viâ</i> Auckland by a fine vessel +belonging to Godeffroy; but no one knew she was going, till she +actually sailed.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We returned last night from the grand tour of this isle on the +occasion of King Pomare’s accession to the throne. Admiral Serre +most kindly arranged that I should be of the party, and really I do +not think I ever enjoyed an expedition so much in all my life. It +was wonderful luck for me just to have come in for so exceptional +a chance; for, of course, under no other circumstances could I have +seen either the country or the people to such advantage. It was +really like a bit of a fairy tale, and all fitted in so smoothly and +naturally without the smallest trouble or care of any sort, so far as +<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>I was concerned. In every respect it has been a most delightful +trip,—good weather, good roads, and most agreeable company. I +cannot tell you how often I longed to have you with us (remembering +how you love driving, and that carriages are an unknown +luxury in Fiji)!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The admiral had a capital carriage and excellent horses, and such +a jovial great half-caste driver. And the broad grass drives along +the shore, generally skirting the sea or passing through the heavenly +orange-groves, are so delicious, and you glide along so silently +through ever-changing scenes of beauty. How you would have +enjoyed it all!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Besides the royal party and a few native chiefs, there were about +twenty French officers and the admiral’s excellent brass band, consisting +of twenty sailors, who have been trained and are kept well +up to the mark by M. D’Oncieue de la Battye, the admiral’s <i>chef +d’étât-major</i>, who is an excellent musician, and a most agreeable +companion—which was fortunate, as either he or M. Hardouin, the +A.D.C., always occupied the third seat in the carriage. Everything +on the whole expedition was admirably arranged; and although +we were such a very large party, there was always good +accommodation provided, and everything was done comfortably.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Each district possesses a very large <i>cheferie</i> or <i>fareo</i>,—<i>i.e.</i>, a very +large native house built for public purposes—meetings, and the +accommodation of strangers. Like all the native houses here, +they consist chiefly of a heavy thatch roof, rounded at both +ends, supported on a mere framework of posts, and leaving the +sides all open, save at night, when they are screened in. They +generally have good wooden floors, often smooth enough to dance +upon.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The first of these at which we stopped was most beautifully +decorated, and tables spread for 300 persons, the chief’s family supplying +that for <i>les gros bonnets</i>—and each family in the district +taking entire charge of one table. At other places we found the +feast spread in temporary houses, but everywhere it was gracefully +done.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Our night quarters were also most comfortably arranged, and I +<span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>was especially charmed by the beds provided for us,—very large +and soft, stuffed with the silky tree-cotton; abundant pillows; real +mosquito-nets and light curtains, tied back with gay ribbons; and +such pretty coverlets of patchwork, really triumphs of art needlework. +Those most in favour have crimson patterns on a white +ground, but the designs are highly artistic. It seems that a Tahitian +housewife prides herself on her snowy linen and downy pillows—a +very happy adaptation of foreign customs. Whenever it was possible +so to arrange it, Marau and I shared the same room, which +was a pleasant arrangement.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Each morning our procession of fifteen wheeled vehicles started +at 7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, preceded by native outriders carrying the gay district +flag, which made a pretty bit of colour as we passed through the +green glades. A drive of seven or eight miles brought us to our +halting-point, where we found masses of people assembled to sing +<i>himènes</i> of welcome, all, however, dressed in black, relieved only +by crowns and handkerchiefs of yellow, or else a wreath or hat of +snowy white bamboo or arrowroot fibre, and in their hair soft +plumes of snowy <i>reva-reva</i>,—a filmy ribbon extracted from the +cocoa-palm leaf. All the women were supposed to have cut off their +beautiful long black hair, as mourning for old Queen Pomare; but +happily a good many had only shammed, so now there is no lack of +glossy black tresses. Those, however, who affect deep mourning, +still wear black straw-hats trimmed with crape, and look most +lugubrious, their dark sallow complexions and raven hair giving +them such a very sombre appearance.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All the women without exception have their dresses cut on the +pattern of the old English <i>sacques</i> worn by our grandmothers—that +is, a yoke on the shoulders, from which the skirt falls to the +feet, and trails behind. The effect is very easy and graceful, and +it is a matter of deep congratulation that the dress in fashion in +Europe at the period when Tahiti adopted foreign garments, should +have been one so suitable. It would be impossible to devise a +cooler dress, as it only touches the neck, shoulders, and (very +loosely) the arms. The one under-garment is low-necked, short-sleeved, +and of such a length as to form a sweeping skirt, thus +<span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>combining chemise and petticoat. Shoes and stockings are of +course superfluous.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Having halted and feasted at the morning district, we started +again about two o’clock, drove seven or eight miles further, always +through lovely country, and so reached our night quarters, where +we were again received by assembled multitudes and congratulatory +<i>himènes</i>. Then the band played, as it had done at our noonday +halt, to the great delight of the people; and we strolled about, +and bathed in some clear crystalline stream, reassembling for a +great native feast, which, however, was served European fashion, +as each district possesses its own crockery, glass, knives, forks, +spoons, &c. The admiral provided French wines and bread.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then followed more <i>himène</i> singing; while we sat listening, +entranced, either in the great house, or on the beautiful sea-shore, +in the perfect moonlight. <i>Himènes</i> are a new sensation in music, +utterly indescribable—the strangest, wildest, most perplexing +chants; very musical and varied, quite impossible to catch. They +are a curious and fascinating sort of glee-chorus, in which every +one seems to introduce any variations he fancies, but always in +perfect tune, and producing a combination like most melodious +cathedral chimes—rising and falling in rippling music, and a +droning undertone sounding through it all. The whole air seems +full of musical voices perfectly harmonised—now in unison, now +heard singly; one moment lulled to softest tones, then swelling in +clear ringing melody; voices now running together, now diverging. +The singers compose their own words, which sometimes describe +the most trivial details of passing events, sometimes are fragments +of most sacred hymns—according to the impulse of the moment. +Perhaps this last fact gives us a clue to the origin of the word +<i>hymn-ene</i>; though I fancy that the words sung are often those of +older and less seemly songs than the hymns taught by the early +missionaries.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This is an outline of what has been our daily life for the last +ten days. All has gone off without a single drawback, and it has +been a spell of thorough enjoyment: nothing could exceed the +kindness of every one, whether French or Tahitian. I think that +<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>of all the lovely isles I have visited, these certainly deserve the +palm. Tahiti is a miniature of Ceylon, omitting all the great +hideous coffee districts in the interior (districts made hideous by +denudation—the glorious primeval forests having been ruthlessly +sacrificed to make way for gold-producing crops).</p> + +<p class='c008'>The lovely hills and valleys of Tahiti and Moorea have only +gained in beauty by the introduction of the fruit-bearing trees, +which now form a most important feature in the general wealth of +foliage—the dense thickets of orange-trees having all grown from +those brought from Sydney by Mr Henry, one of the early missionaries. +Strangely enough, the most healthy trees are those which +have grown self-sown from the seed thrown about carelessly by the +natives, when they retired to some quiet valley to brew their +orange-rum in secret. These trees have thriven far better than +those much cared for, and transplanted.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The splendid mango-trees, whose mass of dark foliage is now so +prominent a feature on all sides, were introduced less than twenty +years ago by the French, who have taken infinite trouble to procure +all the very best sorts, and have succeeded to perfection.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the special charm of these isles lies in the multitude of +their streams and rivulets. We calculated that in driving round +Tahiti—a distance of 160 miles—we crossed 150 streams, all clear +as crystal. Several of these are large rivers; and all have enchanting +pools, most tempting to bathers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The general form of the main isle is that of a double gourd—a +large circle divided by a rocky ridge from a small one, the centre +being composed of a tumbled wilderness of mountains rising to +a height of 7000 feet. Precipitous crags, pinnacles, and narrow +ridges of black volcanic rock, which the natives themselves never +care to scale, tower in grand forms at the head of each of the +countless richly wooded valleys, to all of which we looked up from +the sea-level. There was only one point where we rose to any +height—namely, the rocky ridge which connects the peninsula +with the main isle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I must not write more at present lest I should lose the mail. +Next week, if all is well, the Seignelay is to take the royal party +<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>across to beautiful Moorea, there to repeat the pleasures of the last +fortnight on a smaller scale. And very soon after our return +thence, Mrs Brander intends to despatch one of her large vessels +to Honolulu to fetch cattle, and I purpose taking passage by her, +hoping that I shall thus have time to see something of the Sandwich +Isles, and there find letters from you, with such definite plans +as shall guide me whether to meet you in Australia or New Zealand +about Christmas. You will scarcely venture to keep the +children in Fiji any later in the hot season.—With all loving +greetings, yours ever,</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>C. F. G. C.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIII.<br> <span class='c009'>THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI—LIFE DAY BY DAY—HIMÈNES—A BEAUTIFUL SHORE—MANUFACTURE OF ARROWROOT FLOWERS—A DESERTED COTTON PLANTATION—TAHITIAN DANCING—THE AREOIS—VANILLA PLANTATIONS—FORT OF TARAVAO.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Paea, Tahiti</span>, <i>Monday, Oct. 15, 1877</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dearest Nell</span>,—We have had a long and most interesting day, +and I am pretty well tired out. Still I must begin a journal letter +to-night, as we start again at daybreak, and I am sure you will wish +for a detailed account of our trip.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning at 8 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> we started on the <i>grand tour de l’île</i>. +All the luggage of the party had been sent on ahead in heavy +<i>fourgons</i>, as had also the band of the Magicienne, consisting of +twenty sailors, in a couple of <i><span lang="fr">char à bancs</span></i>. Tahitian outriders, +carrying the flag of the district, preceded Ariiaue, now King +Pomare V., who led our procession, in a high dogcart, accompanied +by his brother Tamatoa, and his little nephew Hinoi, son +of the late Prince Joinville. Then followed Admiral Serre, M. +Hardouin, the A.D.C., and myself, in a comfortable open carriage, +and capital horses. Queen Marau came next, with her lovely little +sister Manihinihi, and Moë’s child, Terii-Mae-Vaetua, who is next +in the succession. Sundry and divers vehicles followed, containing +<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>about twenty French officers, Mr Barff as interpreter, and Joseph +Miller.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The weather was perfect—not too hot; a brisk trade-wind +brought the sea roaring and tumbling in heavy breakers on the +coral-reef, about a mile from the shore, where our road skirted the +calm lagoon, so blue and peaceful and still. We drove through +districts which seemed like one vast orchard of mango, bread-fruit, +banana, <i>faes</i>, large orange-trees, lemons, guavas, citrons, papawas, +vanilla, coffee, sugar-cane, maize, and cocoa-palm,—together forming +a succession of the very richest foliage it is possible to conceive. +Sometimes we amused ourselves by counting such few trees as are +not fruit-bearing. Here and there the broad grass roads are edged +with avenues of tall plantains,—very handsome in a dead calm, but +too delicate to endure the rough wooing of these riotous trade-winds, +which tear the huge leaves to ribbons, so that the avenues +are apt to have a <i>disjasket</i> look.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Even the commonest crops are attractive,—the Indian corn and +the sugar, each growing to a height of eight or ten feet, with long +leaves like gigantic grass, and pendent tassels of delicate pink silk.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We halted at various points, where deputations had assembled +to welcome the king, and about eleven o’clock reached Punavia,—a +lovely spot on the sea-shore, at the mouth of a beautiful valley, +above which towers Le Diadème (that same crown-shaped mountain +which I told you is so grand as seen from Fautawa valley).</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course I had not failed to bring my large sketching-blocks; +and, thanks to the kindness of Mr Green, I had been able to +replace my mildewed paper by a store of French paper, sold by the +Government offices at Papeete as unfit for use; but to me, after +long experience of Fijian mildew, it proved an unspeakable prize. +M. Fayzeau, himself a graceful artist, helped me quickly to select +the very best spot for a sketch,—from near a ruined French fort +on the shore. Two small forts, further up the valley recalled the +days when Tahiti made her brave but unavailing struggle for independence.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Ere long we were summoned to breakfast,—a native feast in a +native house, which was decorated in most original style, with large +<span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>patchwork quilts. These are the joy and pride of the Tahitian +women, and so artistic in design as to be really ornamental.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To speak correctly, I should call this repast a <i>faamuraa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, +a feeding: our fish should have been wrapped in plantain-leaves, +and broiled on the embers; the pigs baked on hot stones in earth +ovens, where the peeled bread-fruit and bunches of <i>faes</i>, or mountain-plantain, +should likewise have been cooked; and the only salt +provided should have been a little sea-water in a cocoa-nut shell. +But Tahiti has gone ahead so fast, that I cannot answer for how +things are done nowadays. I know that, instead of vegetable +plates—<i>i.e.</i>, layers of large round hybiscus-leaves—we ate off +foreign plates, with knives and forks of best electro-plate, and +drank our red wine from clearest crystal glasses, and snowy napkins +were not forgotten.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There was a considerable consumption of raw fish, which is considered +a very great delicacy, and one for which many foreigners +acquire a strong liking. There is no accounting for tastes. King +Ariiaue, who takes great care of me at meals, has been trying to +teach me this enjoyment, and on my objecting, declares it is mere +prejudice, as of course I eat oysters raw—we might almost say +alive. To this I can answer nothing, well remembering the savage +delight with which we have often knocked our own oysters off +rocks and branches, and swallowed them on the instant! But +then they are so small, and some of these fish are very large. +Perhaps one’s instinctive objection is to their size. Those most +in favour are of a most exquisite green colour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>During breakfast, and afterwards, the glee-singers of the district +sang <i>himènes</i>, which are the national music—most strange and +beautiful part-songs. Afterwards dancing was suggested; but +only a few men volunteered to show us the <i>Upa-upa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the old +national dance—which is merely an exceedingly ungraceful wriggle, +involving violent exertion, till every muscle quivers, and the dancer +retires panting, and in a condition of vulgar heat. It is the identical +dance which we saw at the Arab wedding at Port Said, and +in various other countries—always an unpleasant exhibition. Happily +the band struck up some gay air, which delighted the people; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>and it continued to play till four o’clock, when our procession again +formed, and another lovely drive along the shore brought us to +Paea.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This is a charmingly situated hamlet of clean, comfortable houses, +only divided from the white coral-sand by a belt of green turf and +fine old iron-wood trees. Here our night quarters were assigned to +us; and certainly we are in clover. I am now sitting in “my own +room”—one of four good bed-rooms, opening off a large centre +room,—all fresh and clean, and gay with bright quilts and snowy +linen. The king and queen, and all the officers, and the band, +have their quarters in different houses.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the pride of the district is its very large house for public +entertainment,—a long building, rounded at both ends like the +Tongan houses, with heavy thatch, and very light bamboo sides, +quite transparent. Here dinner was laid, in European style, for +300 guests,—an upper table at one end, where the chiefs of the +district entertained the royal party. Other tables were ranged +down each side of the building,—each family in the neighbourhood +undertaking to provide for one, and there assemble their own +friends. The whole great building is beautifully decorated in +Tahitian style, with palm-leaves and tree-ferns, and festoons of +deep fringe, made of hybiscus fibre, all dyed either yellow or +white: there must be <i>miles</i> of this fringe on that house. Yellow +is happily admitted in Court mourning; so the majority of the +people have either a yellow neck-tie, or some yellow flowers in +their hats—a symptom of mitigated affliction, to express the +pleasure that now mingles in their grief for the good queen.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“Le Roi est mort,—Vive le Roi!”</p> + +<p class='c008'>But everywhere we find all the people clothed in long black +robes, with black hats and cropped hair, instead of the customary +bright colours, long glossy tresses, and gay wreaths. Here, even +the district flag-staff is adorned with a deep fringe of black fibre.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We went to dinner in most orthodox fashion, the admiral conducting +Marau, and Ariiaue taking me. The feast was warranted +to be entirely <i><span lang="fr">à l’indigène</span></i>,—all native dishes; but its great charm +consisted in the table decorations, which were most ingenious and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>effective. Apparently each table had a series of white marble +centre-vases, which, on close inspection, proved to be graduated +lumps of the thick fleshy banana-stalk. In these were arranged +all manner of artificial flowers, made of coloured leaves, or of the +glossy white arrowroot fibre, or bamboo fibre, which are used in +making wreaths and hats; and from some there floated a silvery +plume of the lightest silky film, like fairy ribbons. This is the +snowy <i>reva-reva</i>, extracted from the interior of young cocoa-palm +leaves—a difficult operation, requiring the neatest hand and long +practice. As yet, I cannot produce more than a few inches unbroken. +The worker keeps a split stick, stuck in the ground +beside her, and into its cleft fastens one end of each ribbon as +she peels it, otherwise the faintest breath of air would blow it +away. It is the loveliest gossamer you can imagine.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the end of the feast Tamatoa gave the example of adorning +his own hat and those of his neighbours with these lovely plumes, +and all the pretty arrowroot and bamboo flowers. Then we +adjourned to the grassy shore, and watched the clear full moon +rise from the calm sea, while the glee-singers sang their soft +beautiful choruses. A few men and one or two women began the +same hideous dance with which they had favoured the company +in the forenoon, but they met with small encouragement, and the +singers carried the day—or rather the night.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I wish it were possible for me to describe Tahitian <i>himènes</i> so +as to give you the faintest shadow of an idea of their fascination. +But the thing is utterly impossible. Nothing you have ever heard +in any other country bears the slightest resemblance to these wild +exquisite glees, faultless in time and harmony, though apparently +each singer introduces any variations that occur to him or her.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The musicians sit on the grass—or the mats, as the case may be,—in +two divisions, arranged in rows so as to form two squares. +A space is left between these where the “conductor,” should there +chance to be one, walks up and down, directing the choruses. But +very often there is no leader, and apparently all sing according to +their own sweet will. One voice commences: it may be an old +native tune, with genuine native words (the meaning of which we +<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>had better not inquire), or it may be a Scriptural story versified, +and sung to an air originally imported from Europe, but so completely +Tahitianised that no mortal could recognise it, which is all +in its favour; for the wild melodies of this isle are beyond measure +fascinating.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After one clause of solo, other voices strike in—here, there, +everywhere—in harmonious chorus. It seems as if one section +devoted themselves to pouring forth a rippling torrent of Ra, ra, +ra-ra-ra! while others burst into a flood of La, la, la-la-la! Some +confine their care to sound a deep booming bass in a long-continued +drone, somewhat suggestive (to my appreciative Highland +ear) of our own bagpipes. Here and there high falsetto notes +strike in, varied from verse to verse, and then the choruses of La +and Ra come bubbling in liquid melody; while the voices of the +principal singers now join in unison, now diverge as widely as it is +possible for them to do, but all combine to produce the quaintest, +most melodious, rippling glee that ever was heard. Some <i>himènes</i> +have an accompaniment of measured hand-clapping, by hundreds +of those present. It is curious in its way, chiefly as a triumph +of perfect time, but I do not think it attractive. The clear mellifluous +voices need no addition; and as they ring out suddenly and +joyously, in the cool evening, I can imagine no sound more inspiriting.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-night our party received a pleasant addition, the queen’s two +sisters, Moetia and Prie, having driven over from Papeete, on their +way to join their mother, Mrs Salmon, who, as high chiefess of the +next district, is to receive her daughter to-morrow morning.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All the time I have been writing to you, there have been occasional +bursts of <i>himène</i> singing, and of the far less musical accompaniment +of the <i>Upa-upa</i>; but now quiet reigns, so I may as well +sleep while I can. Good-night.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Mataiea, Papeooriri</span>, <i>Tuesday, 16th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This morning we were all astir at 5 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, and had early coffee on +the cool verandah. All the luggage was started by 6 o’clock, and +then I had a quiet hour’s sketching from beneath one of the great +<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>iron-wood trees (<i>casuarina</i>). At 7 o’clock our procession started; +every one cheery and good-tempered; on every side hearty greetings—“<i>Yarra +na! Yarra na!</i>” and sounds of careless laughter, +and merry voices. There is certainly a great charm in this pretty +liquid language, and in the gentle affectionate manner of the people, +who seem to be overflowing with genial kindliness.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As usual, our path lay through such bowers of endlessly varied +foliage as to form one continuous panorama of delight. No +painter’s brush could produce such infinite shades of green as are +here multiplied,—from the delicate tender hues of the silky young +banana-leaves, ranging through every description of dark-green +and bright-green, blue-green and sunlit yellow, till the eye is fain +to rest on the sombre hair-like foliage of the iron-wood trees, which +grow on the very brink of the sea, their long tresses literally drooping +to the water.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We passed through plantations of coffee, not close-clipped as +in Ceylon, but growing tall and rank, and overshadowed by cocoa-palms, yet +loaded with bright scarlet berries. The coffee shrubs +are here made to do double duty, and serve as props for the vanilla, +which is trained to creep all over them, its fragrant pods intermingling +with the coffee cherries.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The broad road of soft green turf next led us through groves of +luxuriant bread-fruit trees with large pale-green fruit, dark mango-trees +and orange-trees alike laden with their half-ripe crop, and +here and there we passed a fragrant rose-apple tree, the fruit of +which tastes exactly like the scent of roses. But of all heavenly +perfumes, commend me to the blossom of the Tahitian chestnut, +a noble forest-tree, with rich dark foliage, standing out in strong +relief from the cool grey-greens of the hybiscus, with the lemon-coloured +blossoms, which clothes the base of the mountains.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Beyond that belt of cool shadow the great green hills tower in +strange fantastic form, seamed by deep valleys, down which pour +crystal streams, so numerous that the sparkling air seems to re-echo +the musical voice of many waters. Every weird fantastic rock-pinnacle +is draped by clinging vines, infinite in their variety, and +all alike lovely; and the clear sunlight playing on the golden green +<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>of the mountain-summits, tells that even there, the same wealth of +all things beautiful abounds.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This was the panorama that rose on our left hand as we drove +along the shore. On our right, like a silver shield, lay the calm +glittering lagoon, reflecting, as in a mirror, the grand masses of +white cloud, and bounded by the long line of breakers, flashing as +they dashed on the barrier-reef. Beyond these lay outspread the +vast Pacific, its deep purple flecked with white crests, telling how +briskly the trade-winds blew outside. And far on the horizon, +the rugged peaks of Moorea rose, clear and beautiful, robed in +ethereal lilac. Far above our heads the light fronds of the cocoa-palm +interlaced, forming a fairy canopy, through which we looked +up to the clearest blue heaven. I think it must be a cold unthankful +heart that could so look up, without some echo of the +<i>Benedicite</i>—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“O ye mountains and hills, O ye seas and floods, O all ye green things upon the earth,</div> + <div class='line'>Bless ye the Lord! praise Him and magnify Him for ever.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Two hours’ drive brought us to Papara, where a very grand +reception awaited the young king and queen. Mrs Salmon, the +queen’s mother, had assembled all her vassals in most imposing +array; and a double row of <i>himène</i> singers lined the road, singing +choruses of congratulation, taken up alternately on the right hand +and on the left. The effect was very pretty. Many relations of +the family had also assembled to greet their royal kinsfolk.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Very quaint handsome <i>tiputas</i> were presented to the king and +the admiral. These are ceremonial garments, reaching from the +neck to the knee, made from the fibre of bread-fruit bark, and +covered with flowers and twists of the glossy arrowroot fibre, each +stitched on separately. To the queen, the admiral, and myself, were +presented most lovely crowns of the same silvery arrowroot; while +for the gentlemen were provided garlands and necklaces of fragrant +white or yellow blossoms, and charming hats of white bamboo fibre, +manufactured by the ladies and their attendants.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I may as well tell you how the lovely arrowroot fibre is obtained. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>It is the inner coating of the flower-stalk, which is a hollow stem +like that of hemlock, and grows to a height of about four feet. +These stalks are soaked in running water till the green outer skin +begins to decay. Then the stalk is laid on a flat wooden board, +and a woman slits it open from end to end with a sharp shell, with +which she then proceeds to scrape off every particle of green, and +there remains a lovely ribbon, like very glossy white satin, ribbed +longitudinally: with a sharp thorn she divides this into very narrow +strips. And this is the material most in use in the art-world +of Tahiti, being woven by deft fingers into all manner of pretty +ornaments for hair, dress, and fans. Bamboo is prepared in much +the same manner, but is a harsher material to work, and much less +ornamental.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The house at Papara, and the large breakfast-room, were most +tastefully decorated with great tree-ferns and bright yellow banana-leaves, +plaited to form a sort of fringe. Wild melodious <i>himènes</i> +were sung all the time of the feast, and afterwards the band played +operatic airs till 3 o’clock, when we once more started on our +journey.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In this district much cultivation has impaired the beauty of wild +nature. Large tracts of land have been laid out for scientific planting +of cotton and coffee; and after all, the fields have been abandoned, +the crops left to run wild, and are now rank straggling +bushes struggling for life with the overmastering vines. In itself +the cotton is a pretty shrub, its yellow blossom with claret-coloured +heart closely resembling the lemon-coloured hybiscus, while its +bursting pods offer their soft white fluff to all comers. But a +softer, silkier cotton for stuffing pillows, is that obtained from the +tall cotton-tree, with the scarlet blossom and long green pod.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We halted at the melancholy deserted plantation of Atiamano, +which in very recent years was the home of the manager for the +Tahiti Cotton and Coffee Plantation Company—a reckless speculator +with the capital intrusted to him. Never was there a truer +illustration of the proverb concerning cutting broad thongs from +other men’s leather.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mr William Stewart, an ex-cavalry officer, arrived in Tahiti +<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>about the year 1860, and obtained the sanction of the French +governor for the purchase of a very large property, to which he +gave the name of Terre Eugénie, and at once commenced every +species of improvement. First-class roads, high cultivation, hotels +which never paid, because of the princely hospitality freely offered +to all comers in his own splendid country-house;—these, with his +genial friendliness and good fellowship, naturally made him the +most popular man in Tahiti, and one whose praises have been sung +by all travellers. To work the estates he imported about 1000 +Chinamen, and 300 “foreign labour” from the Central Pacific and +the Hervey Isles; and to those he is said to have been a kind +master, caring for them in sickness as in health, by the provision +of good hospitals.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course there were not lacking enemies who grudged Mr +Stewart his apparent success, and many were the virulent attacks +made upon him by other settlers in the group. Specimens of very +inferior cotton were circulated in Europe, purporting to be samples +of the finest growth of Atiamano; and sensational paragraphs appeared +in various American papers, describing the infamous cruelties +of which he and his overseers were declared guilty towards +their wretched labourers. So damaging were these attacks, that +Mr Stewart demanded a public inquiry, which was granted by the +French Governor, when all these accusations were proved to be +iniquitous libels. The little army of 1300 workmen were found +to be unusually healthy and happy; and the only serious complaint +made to the commissioners was by the Chinamen, who considered +it most unfair of Mr Stewart to object to their committing +suicide by hanging, as the easiest way of paying their gambling +debts!</p> + +<p class='c008'>This cloud of aspersions having been effectually disproved, +everything looked fair on the surface till, in an evil day, the shareholders +began to take alarm. No title-deeds were forthcoming. +All capital had evaporated utterly, and in 1874 the luckless +manager died miserably, and the great bubble burst. Now the +whole place is falling to ruin, and a more miserable sight I have +rarely seen. A certain number of the Chinamen still remain—they, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>of course, can always contrive to pick up a living somehow—but +the bulk of the large village of wooden houses, once tenanted +by master and men, now stands empty, the plantation is utterly +neglected, the cotton-fields are all overgrown with guava scrub, and +the whole place is a picture of desolation; nothing flourishes save +the long avenue of plantains, which, Tahiti fashion, are planted on +either side of the road.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It seems strange that no enterprising person should have stepped +in to buy up the estate which, at the time of Mr Stewart’s death, +was in such good working order; but, like everything else in this +country, it has suffered from the meddling propensities of the +French Government, which, when the estate was declared bankrupt, +fixed on it an upset price so exorbitant, that no purchaser has yet +been found, nor is any likely to come forward.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We have now got into the true orange country. Some of the +trees here are much larger than the parent trees, which we saw +near Sydney; and yet, as compared with the orange-groves of +Malta, we thought the Australian trees were perfect giants—that +is to say, we could walk upright under their lowest branches. The +whole air is perfumed with the fragrant blossoms, and boughs have +been gathered to adorn our rooms.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here, though the dining-hall is as fine as in other districts, the +sleeping quarters are less inviting, so Marau offered me a room in +the house assigned to her. Being a native house (<i>i.e.</i>, not built of +wood, as many now are), it is rather like living in a bamboo cage, +exceedingly airy and transparent; but it is lined with temporary +curtains, so we are screened from the general public. This afternoon +we strolled along the coast till we found a most delightful +bathing-place, where the Anapu, a clear delicious river, flows into +the sea. The two pretty girls, Manihinihi and Vaetua, of course +bore us company, as also the queen’s handmaid, who was laden +with <i>pareos</i> and towels; the <i>pareo</i> being simply a couple of fathoms +of bright-coloured calico, which, knotted over one shoulder, +forms an efficient and picturesque bathing-gown.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We returned just in time for such a fish-dinner as Greenwich +never equalled. Fish of all sorts and kinds (cooked and raw to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>suit all tastes), excellent lobsters and crabs, huge fresh-water +prawns, delicate little oysters, which grow on the roots and +branches of the mangrove, which fringes some muddy parts of the +shore. But most excellent of all is another product of the briny +mud, altogether new to me—a hideous but truly delicious white +cray-fish (<i>cankrelat de mer</i>, my French friends call it, <i>varo</i> or <i>wurrali</i> +in Tahitian). We have all registered a solemn vow never to +lose a chance of a <i>varo</i> feast. Then there were shell-fish and salads, +and many other good things. The tables were decorated in a +manner quite in keeping with the dishes served, with pillars of +white banana root-stem, just like alabaster, with a fringe of large +prawns at the top, and a frieze of small lobsters below—a very +effective study of scarlet and white.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After the feast we all sat out in the moonlight, listening to the +<i>himène</i> singing, which, I need scarcely say, was lovely. But of +course some districts excel, and have finer voices, more practice, +and a better conductor.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have just been told that we are only thirty-five miles from +Papeete. We have taken the journey in such enjoyably short +stages, that we have certainly made the most of our distance. +Now we are approaching the southern peninsula, which is connected +with this, the main isle, by a comparatively low wide ridge. +This we are to cross to-morrow.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On the Peninsula, Taravou</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Wednesday, 17th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This morning at daybreak the admiral went off to attend Mass, +and then examine the schools. He seems inclined to administer +very even-handed justice between the Catholics and Protestants, +which does not greatly gratify some of the priests. We spent the +morning pleasantly strolling about the village of bird-cage houses +embowered in the orange-groves, and gay with rosy oleanders and +crimson hybiscus.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At eight we started. The weather was threatening; and soon +heavy rain came on, which mocked our waterproofs, and gave us a +thorough soaking, which we all bore philosophically, only regretting +<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>that we drove through a most lovely ferny pass at a moment +when all our umbrellas were striving to exclude the rain, in which +they failed, and only succeeded in hiding the view.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Near the village of Papeari we found all the children of the +Catholic school, headed by a very pleasant, keen-looking young +priest, drawn up with the <i>himène</i> singers to welcome the king and +the admiral. Of course they were all drenched, but none the less +musical. At the head of the singers stood Marau’s aunt, Minito, a +true Tahitian chiefess, sister to Mrs Salmon, and widow of Mr +Sumner, a Sandwich Island half-white.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The rain having ceased, we all walked together to Mrs Sumner’s +house, where we were partially dried—no fear of fever in this +blessed climate. We then proceeded to the large <i>cheferie</i>, where +breakfast was prepared in the usual style—the house prettily +decorated with flags, tree-ferns, and plaited cocoa-palm leaves. +The tables were all adorned with ornaments made of the solid +white banana-stalk, in which were set branches of thorny lemon, +and on each thorn were stuck different blossoms, scarlet or yellow +hybiscus, canna, and gardenia. “When we were seated, women +came round bearing garlands of the delicate artificial arrowroot +flowers, and crowned every one of us. Many of the party had +already secured filmy plumes of the snowy <i>reva-reva</i>; and the +majority of the women, following the good example of Marau, +no longer pretend to have cut off their beautiful hair, but now +wear it in two long jet-black tresses, adorned with gardenias or +such other fragrant blossoms as they may find. With flowers +as necklaces and ear-rings, the Court mourning is becoming less +lugubrious.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After breakfast, <i>himènes</i> as usual, with interludes of most hideous +dancing. There is never any variety, always the same utterly +ungraceful wriggle. Happily the band generally comes to the +rescue, with some attractive air, which puts the dancers to flight. +There never seem to be more than two or three, and these do it as +a professional exhibition—as a curious relic of olden times.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It does seem strange (accustomed as I now am to the endlessly +varied and most graceful dances of the Fijians) to find that these +<span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>Tahitians have apparently no notion of dancing, except this <i>Upa-upa</i>, +which for many years was discountenanced by the chiefs, in +their first anxiety to put away every trace of heathenism. But +under French influence it has been revived; and though the more +respectable natives consider it an objectionable exhibition, and one +in which few care to join, a certain number of dancers crop up at +every village where we halt: their position, however, appears to be +no higher than that of strolling jugglers at English fairs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In heathen days the <i>Upa-upa</i> was the distinguishing dance of +an atrocious sect called the Areois—religious fanatics and libertines +of the vilest order, who were held in reverent awe by the +people, and allowed every sort of privilege. They travelled from +village to village in very large companies, sometimes filling from +fifty to eighty canoes. Whenever they landed great sacrifices were +offered to the gods; and for so long as they chose to remain in one +place, they were the honoured guests of the chief, and had to be +provided for by the villagers, whom they entertained by acting +pantomimes and reciting legends of the very unholy gods, singing +songs in their honour, wrestling, gesticulating, and dancing, till +they worked themselves up to a pitch of frenzy which was considered +religious, and the night was spent in wild orgies. Their full +dress on these occasions generally consisted only of a little scarlet +and black dye; the seeds of the vermilion-plant and charcoal furnishing +the materials. At other times they wore kilts of the +yellow dracæna and wreaths of scarlet Barringtonia.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They were divided into distinct classes, distinguished by the +manner in which they were tattooed. The lowest class had merely +a circle round the ankle; the next had one stripe on the left side; +the third was marked on each shoulder; the fourth on both sides, +round the body; the fifth was tattooed from the fingers to the +shoulders, and the leaders were adorned with stockings of the +same. The imprinting of these indelible class-marks was part of +a religious festival, at which great offerings of food and goods +were presented to the gods, and to these their servants, and on +this one occasion women, were allowed freely to partake of the +feast, and to eat of the meat which had been offered in sacrifice, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>which at other times they dared not touch without incurring the +penalty of death.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The most horrible feature of this society was, that by its primary +law no Areoi was allowed to rear his offspring. Celibacy was +by no means enjoined—very much the reverse; indeed each Areoi +had an acknowledged wife, who was a member of the society: +but of the innumerable children of these favoured sinners, not one +was ever suffered to live; and any person desiring to enter the +holy brotherhood, was required in the first instance to murder any +children he might already have. The sect was supposed to have +been divinely instituted, and its members were sure of admission +to the Rohutu <i>noa-noa</i>, or fragrant paradise, in which the blessed +were to spend an eternity of feasting, with every delight that +heart or flesh could desire.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The total extinction of this society was one of the most marked +triumphs of Christianity in this group; and the early missionaries +record with thankful wonder, that many Areois were among their +earliest and most zealous converts and steady adherents, and became +hard-working and successful teachers and native missionaries, +striving with their whole energy to counteract the evils in which +they had hitherto been prime movers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Such being the associations connected with this most unattractive +dance, it certainly is strange to read the regrets, expressed by +various travellers, that the missionaries should have seen fit to +discourage it, as if in so doing they had deprived the people of +some delightful pleasure. It is a very different thing from the +beautiful and artistic dances of Fiji, which the Wesleyan Mission +have so wisely encouraged the people to retain, even at their school +and church festivals.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This afternoon was clear and bright, and the drive to the isthmus +and then up the ridge was very beautiful. Part of the road lay +through a real jungle of large orange-trees laden with ripe fruit. +I need not say how we feasted; as did also herds of many pigs, +that wander at large through these enchanting thickets, and find +an ample supply of fruit which falls unheeded on the grass—true +windfalls! It is from these groves that cargoes of several hundred +<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>thousand oranges are carried to San Francisco by every opportunity.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Imagine the joy of some poor ragged-school child, whose one +treat is an orange at Christmas, and whose home is in the slums of +any of our horrible cities, could it but wake to find itself in this +elysium. I remember Dr Guthrie’s ragged schools coming to spend +one day at Winton Castle with dear old Lady Ruthven, and the +teachers told me that there were many children present who had +never before in their short lives set foot in the country. Would +that they could all be transported for a while to the orange-groves +of Tahiti!</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-day we also passed some large vanilla plantations, in admirable +order. The vanilla is a creeper, and is planted at the foot +of some shady shrub, up which it climbs and twines among the +branches. To economise labour and space, two crops are combined, +by training the vanilla over either coffee-bushes or the vermilion-tree, +which carries its bright seeds in small pods. The vanilla +itself is a precarious crop, requiring much watchful care at each +stage of its growth, which, however, it well repays, as it fetches +four dollars per pound. Moreover, it is a fragrant harvest.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This place is a military station; the French have a fort here, and +some soldiers. I believe that political offenders are sent to Taravou +to expiate their supposed misdeeds within its walls. M. de Damian, +commandant of the fort, had provided comfortable quarters for the +admiral and his party at his own house, and an excellent room was +most kindly assigned to me. Marau and Ariiaue have gone on to +another village, where we are to join them in the morning.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French soldiers here employ some of their leisure hours in +the care of a garden, which rewards them with excellent vegetables +and glorious roses. I had the delight of arranging delicious nosegays +for the dinner-table this evening, and have a lovely bunch of +roses now beside me.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is again raining heavily, but we rejoice thereat, for generally a +deluge of rain at night is followed by a clear balmy morning, and +all the lovely vegetation appears in its freshest glory.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now I must bid you good-night.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIV.<br> <span class='c009'><span class='fss'>THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI</span> (<i>continued</i>)—<span class='fss'>FRENCH FORT AT TARAVOU—THE PENINSULA—LIFE IN BIRD-CAGE HOUSES—TORCHLIGHT PROCESSION—RETURN TO PAPEETE.</span></span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Pueu</span>, <i>Thursday, 18th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We woke this morning to find this beautiful world bathed in +sunshine, and I slipped out for a lovely early stroll along the shore. +There was a great calm, the sea literally without a ripple, reflecting +the mellow tones of the sky. I followed a wide grass road passing +through a cocoa plantation—luxuriant young palms of all ages, the +ground beneath them carpeted with succulent grasses; a combination +of fresh greens delightful to the eye. I think the heavy rain +must have driven all the land-crabs out of their holes, for truly +they were legion, and all were busily feeding, till, aware of a footstep, +they darted back to their burrows. In some spots they clustered +in such numbers that the whole bank seemed in motion. +Some of these are as large as a good Scotch “parten;” but there +are also a vast number of the tiny crab, with one large bright-coloured +claw, which love the muddy shore at the mouth of the +rivers, where you may see them by the thousand, feeding busily +with a tiny claw while holding the large one before them as a +shield. Evidently, however, they know discretion to be the better +part of valour, for at the faintest movement which reveals the approach +of danger they vanish into their mud-holes faster than the +twinkling of an eye.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Our morning halt was at Afaahiti, a small village of which the +king himself is the chief, for which reason it had been arranged +that he should sleep there last night. We found Marau and the +ladies of the village stringing wreaths of sweet white blossoms, with +which they crowned themselves and us; and then we all adjourned +to breakfast in a bamboo house, decorated in the usual style with +twisted and plaited leaves, and deep fringes of dyed fibre. <i>Himènes</i>, +of course,—and then, while the band entertained the people, we, the +unquiet spirits, wandered down to explore the shore, which is overshadowed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>by large trees, beneath which we found various kinds of +large shells.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At noon we drove on to Pueu, where we were welcomed by a +very large assemblage, and conducted to the <i>cheferie</i> or district hall, +really a splendid room, with a beautiful floor: it is like a great +ball-room. All the dining-tables were set at one end, while nine +very pretty beds, with artistic crimson and white quilts, and mosquito-nets +tied up with bright ribbons, were ranged down one side +of the room. I am ashamed to say that we all took a most uncourteous +fit of laughing; for really at the first glimpse the row of +beds seemed to multiply, and we fancied we were all to occupy this +one room; but we soon discovered that only the junior officers were +to share it, and that excellent quarters had been prepared for us all +in different houses. The best house of three rooms was assigned +to the admiral, his son, and myself; and here I am now cosily +ensconced for a chat with you. My room, which opens out into +the verandah, has no doors, so my black waterproof sheet and the +green tartan plaid, inseparable companion of all my wanderings east +or west, act as good curtains.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This is a lovely place. In the afternoon we roamed through +fragrant orange-groves, and along the beautiful shore, and I managed +to secure a sketch of the village. As a matter of course +there is a large Protestant church, of which all the population +are members, and a tiny Roman Catholic chapel, without any congregation.</p> + +<p class='c008'>An exceedingly pretty banquet awaited us in the large <i>cheferie</i>, +after which we strolled about in the lovely moonlight, while the +village choirs sang their melodious <i>himènes</i>. At a very short distance +they sound like full-toned cathedral chimes.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>M. Damian, Taravou</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Friday, 19th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>At grey dawn Queen Marau came to my room to early tea, and +told me that the house which had been assigned to her and the +king was so purely native, that they had no beds—only mats and +pillows—no hardship in this delightful climate, but a curious distribution +<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>of hospitality, when to each young lieutenant had been +assigned so luxuriant a couch.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The drive along the peninsula was most lovely. Always by the +broad green road running close to the sea, and passing through +richest foliage of all sorts and forms; crossing crystalline streams +which flowed down beautiful glens, with great shapely hills on +either side, and some lonely peak towering at the head of the dark +ravine. We came to one broad river whence the view was so lovely +that the admiral most kindly decided to let one of the carriages +wait while I sketched; an arrangement highly satisfactory to its +occupants, who went off for a bathe in the clear delicious stream, +while I stood on the bridge and worked diligently till the last of +our heavy baggage-carts came across, and proved to be the last +straw which that poor bridge could bear. An ominous crack, then +a crash, and the heavy <i>fourgon</i> had broken through the bridge, but +happily rested on the strong cross timbers, and with infinite trouble +it was unloaded and raised. Then the bridge had to be repaired, +as we were to retrace the same road in the afternoon; when the +other end gave way and broke down, happily without doing serious +damage.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A short drive brought us to Tautira, a large, very pretty village, +where the men were playing at spear-throwing. This is the first +place where we have seen any sort of game played. The admiral, +according to his custom, inspected the schools, and pronounced a +verdict not altogether encouraging on the work of a young priest, +who was setting the children to such useful tasks as copying “<span lang="fr">mon +âme est souillé de péchés!</span>”<a id='r43'></a><a href='#f43' class='c017'><sup>[43]</sup></a> off a large black slate; they being +almost as ignorant of French as he of Tahitian. The admiral discourages +the teaching of French, especially to the girls, rightly +judging that such knowledge will prove by no means to their moral +weal.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We were, as usual, most hospitably entertained with all the +village could give, of fish and fruit, flesh and fowl. Everywhere +those excellent white cray-fish, the <i>varo</i>, are our chief delicacy. +Here and there pine-apples are produced, but they are very poor, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>probably uncultivated. The <i>himènes</i> at Tautira were exceedingly +pretty, and we left that pleasant “world’s end” with much regret. +The carriage-road does not extend round the peninsula, so we had +to return to the isthmus to start afresh. We reached Taravou in +time for dinner, and found the roses beautiful as before.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In a Native House, Teahaupoo</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, 20th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Early this morning we were once more <i>en route</i>, and drove to +the other side of the peninsula, which is, if possible, even lovelier +than what we saw yesterday. Marau and the king had preceded +us to the village of Vairao, where the ladies had employed the +morning in preparing garlands of a white flower, like jessamine, +with which they crowned us. This village is poor; so instead +of receiving us in a fine district house, the people had erected +very picturesque booths on three sides of a square. The chorus-singers +were grouped on the grass in the centre, where were also +heaped up the usual ceremonial offerings of fruit and pigs—apparently +for show—as there is always an ample supply of food on +the tables.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here, in addition to the usual vegetables, yams, and <i>taro</i>, sweet potatoes, +bread-fruit, and <i>faees</i> roasted in wood-ashes, we had calabashes +of sticky <i>poi</i>, which is a preparation of ripe bread-fruit, +greatly in favour with the natives, and which in old times was the +principal food of this island, as it still is in Hawaii. I do not +think it was ever used in the isles further west, where the bread-fruit +is a very inferior tree to what it is in this, its native home. +Most of the <i>poi</i> which is consumed in Hawaii is made from <i>taro</i>, +and is of a pinkish colour. Here <i>taro</i> is the luxury, bread-fruit +the staff of life, so it alone is used. When eaten fresh with milk +it tastes rather like gooseberry-fool; but the natives prefer it fermented, +and consequently sour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The pulpy fruit is first pounded with a stone pestle in a wooden +bowl, till it attains the consistency of dough. It is then wrapped +in leaves and baked in an earth-oven over red-hot stones. Finally, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>it is beaten up with water till it becomes a glutinous yellowish +mass, indescribably sticky, and with a slightly acid flavour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To the initiated there is always a malicious pleasure in watching +the undignified efforts of a new hand at dipping into this dish; +for of course there are no spoons or forks in the question; and a +stranger, seeing the neatness with which an experienced hand feeds +himself, is apt to imagine that it is all plain sailing, and so plunges +recklessly into this most adhesive paste, probably with the result +of lifting the whole calabash, instead of the mouthful he expected. +The correct method is to dip the forefinger of the right hand in +the bowl, and as you draw it out smoothly coated with <i>poi</i>, give it +a series of rapid twirls to prevent its hanging in glutinous strings; +then with a final flourish, to keep it from dripping, land the finger +in the mouth, and draw it back quite free from the paste, and +ready to repeat the process. Two or more persons generally eat +out of the same bowl, in which case they have cocoa-nut shells of +fresh water beside them in which to wash their finger before dipping +again in the <i>poi</i>; but it really does not much matter, as the +preparation is so very sticky that you must of necessity appropriate +every particle you touch, so you and your neighbour are in no +danger of exchanging atoms! as you would be, in sharing a bowl +of well-chewed <i>kava</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>That beverage of the isles did not appear at this native feast; in +fact I have never seen it in Tahiti, and suppose it must have died +out before the superior attractions of orange-rum and similar decoctions. +On the present occasion, cocoa-nuts were the only drink, +with the exception of pure water. As regards the latter, I was +much struck by an ingenious substitute for water-jars. At every +supporting post of the booths was fastened an upright bamboo, +perhaps twelve feet in length, and pierced from end to end, only +the lowest joint being left intact. Here a spigot was introduced, +and the bamboo being filled with water, supplied drink for all the +thirsty multitude. As drinking-cups, the people here still use +cocoa-nut cups, scraped very thin and polished by constant friction +on a stone in water, till they become as light, and almost as transparent, +as tortoise-shell. The <i>himènes</i> here were the prettiest we +<span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>have yet heard, and you can understand that we are by this time +quite connoisseurs in this peculiar music. The <i>Upa-upa</i> was +danced with unusual zest, but was none the less ungraceful.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another most exquisite drive brought us to Teahaupoo, where +we wandered about, lost in admiration, while the king and the +admiral were undergoing the usual official speeches. The feast +this evening was rather dull, being spread along one side of a very +long and dimly lighted table. Of course we always require artificial +light for dinner, as, in the tropics, the sun sets all the year +round at about six o’clock, rising at about the same hour in the +morning. We often think enviously of your long summer twilight. +But then, on the other hand, we have no short, dark, winter days. +Again to-night the <i>himène</i> singing was unusually fascinating. It +varies much, and the most charming glees are those which are +most suggestive of musical chimes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Queen Marau offered me quarters in the large native house +awarded to her and Ariiaue. It consisted of one large room +without divisions, containing several good beds, with the usual +pretty bright quilts and mosquito-nets. We curtained off one +end of the room for the king and an old chief, and they are now +sleeping peacefully, as we should also be doing—so good-night.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Taravou</span>, <i>Sunday, 21st</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Being a light sleeper, I was awakened long before dawn by +hearing Ariiaue and his companion astir, and soon after 4 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> +they started for Afaahiti, the king’s own village. The rain was +pouring in a pitiless, relentless fashion; and beat in beneath the +wide eaves against the open walls of our bird-cage house. Still we +would fain have stayed where we were, and reluctantly obeyed +the order to be <i>en voiture</i> at seven o’clock, to return to the isthmus. +The rain never ceased, and all the beauty which gladdened us +yesterday was invisible. Only sheets of grey drifting cloud, and +dripping trees, dripping carriages, horses, and umbrellas. We left +Marau at Afaahiti, while we drove on to these now familiar +quarters, where I have the luxury of a large, good room. Of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>course we all arrived soaked, and have spent the day in trying to +get dry. I think most of the gentlemen have managed a few +hours of sleep.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In the Cheferie, Mahaena</span>, <i>Monday, 22d</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>An early drive brought us to Hitiaa, the house of little Hinoi’s +mother, the pretty young widow of the Prince de Joinville. Everything +here was very gracefully done, and the festival as purely +native as possible. Here the severity of Court mourning was not +mitigated, and all the women wore crowns of fibre dyed black, +which looked very sombre.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Immediately after breakfast we started for Mahaena, preceded +by a party of six or eight picturesque lancers, who had formed +part of old Queen Pomare’s body-guard. They added a pleasant +feature to the beautiful scenery as they rode along the green glades, +through the usual successions of glorious foliage;—groves of magnificent +bread-fruit trees, indigenous to those isles; next a clump of +noble mango-trees, recently imported, but now quite at home; then +a group of tall palms, or a long avenue of gigantic bananas, their +leaves, sometimes twelve feet long, meeting over our heads. Then +came patches of sugar or Indian corn, and next a plantation of +vanilla, trained to climb over closely planted tall coffee, or else over +vermilion-bushes. Sometimes it is planted, without more ado, at +the root of pruned guava bushes. These grow wild over the whole +country, loaded with large, excellent fruit, and, moreover, supply +the whole fuel of the isles, and good food for cattle. They are all +self-sown,—descendants of a few plants introduced as garden fruit trees,—and +now they have overrun the isles and are looked upon +by the planters as a curse, because of the rapidity and tenacity +with which they take possession of any patch of neglected land. +Yet a plant which so generously yields food for man and beast, +and abundant fuel, is surely not altogether evil! Amongst all this +wealth of food-producing vegetation, I sometimes looked in vain +for any trees that were merely ornamental; and literally there were +only the yellow hybiscus, which yields the useful fibre, and the +candle-nut, covered with clusters of white blossoms, somewhat +<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>resembling white lilac, and bearing nuts with oily kernels, whence +the tree derives its name.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The method of manufacturing candles from candle-nuts is delightfully +simple. First the nuts are lightly baked, to render their +very hard shell more brittle; the kernels are thus obtained whole, +and a hole being bored in each, about a dozen are strung together +on the mid-rib of a palm-leaf, which acts as the wick, and the oily +nuts, each the size of a walnut, burn slowly with a dim light and +oppressive smell.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On our arrival here, we were met by a messenger from Papeete, +announcing an outbreak of a serious form of influenza, from which +the king’s aunt died this morning. This is a great grief to the +royal brothers, who at once started to attend her funeral. Ties of +family affection appear to be very strong in Tahiti, and this sad +news has cast a gloom on everything. It is very grievous for our +hosts, who had made their preparations with great care, and were +looking forward to this opportunity of testifying their loyalty.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The river here is lovely. Marau and I bathed together, and I +spent the afternoon sketching. During the evening <i>himènes</i>, we +all sat in pleasant groups on the shore, or strolled along to the +mouth of the river. For our night quarters, this large district +house has been divided by temporary screens, charmingly decorated +with quaintly knotted palm-leaves and tree-ferns. I share one of +these divisions with the queen, the admiral and his son occupy the +next, and all the other gentlemen have disposed of themselves at +the further end.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papenoo</span>, <i>Tuesday, 23d</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Last night, for the first time, we were all devoured by fleas, and +a chorus of aggravation arose from all sides of the pretty <i>cheferie</i>. +Everything was beautifully clean, so we attribute the presence of +these unwelcome intruders to the fact that the hay, which is +always laid as a carpet on the wooden floor, must have been too +old.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We all compared notes of distress over our morning coffee—then, +as usual, forgot all save the beauty of the scenery as we +<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>drove along the shore to Tiarei, where a temporary avenue of <i>faees</i>, +or wild banana, had been planted with infinite trouble and at a +great sacrifice of fine fruit-bearing plants. The peculiarity of the +<i>faees</i><a id='r44'></a><a href='#f44' class='c017'><sup>[44]</sup></a> is, that instead of carrying its huge cluster of fruit pendent, +beneath its broad leaves, it carries it upright in the centre. The +<i>faees</i> invariably grow in the most inaccessible ravines and crevices +of the rock; so it must have been a troublesome task to carry these +down, without injury to the large delicate leaves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We were welcomed by a large family of chiefs, and specially by +a kind old lady, who kissed us all on both cheeks, down to M. +Hardouin, A.D.C., when Marau’s untimely laughter stopped her +proceeding to the remaining eighteen officers! Though the absence +of the king must have made it rather flat for the chiefs, the official +speeches were made to the admiral, and the <i>himènes</i> sung as usual.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then followed a most lovely drive, the road cut along the face +of basaltic cliffs, and here we are close to another very fine river, +which of course implies pleasant bathing and sketching. This +evening we had a delightful stroll along the shore, the wavelets +breaking on a pebbly beach. At the last moment, the moon rose +glorious from the sea—a vision of great beauty.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We are very comfortably housed to-night in the chief’s own +house. Marau and I occupy one end, and his family have the +other.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Rev. James Green, Papeete</span>, <i>Oct. 25th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Late last night we returned to headquarters, and I to this pleasant +nest, very glad of the prospect of a few days’ rest. Yesterday +was a long day, for I was out sketching with the first ray of light, +and worked till it was time to start for the Haapepe district, of +which the king’s brother, Terii Tapunui is chief. He is distressingly +lame, but is a very good fellow, with a particularly nice wife, +a cousin of the charming Moë. She is noted for her skill in making +pretty hats. They received us at Point Venus, so called because +Captain Cook thence observed the transit of Venus in 1769.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Pomare and Tamatoa rejoined the party after returning from +<span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span>their aunt’s funeral; and the three brothers spent the afternoon +together by themselves—a wise course, as Tamatoa had striven so +hard to drown his grief, that he had attained a jocose-beatific condition, +very annoying to the king, who all this time has been a +model of sobriety, greatly to the delight of the admiral.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This quiet little village presents the usual anomaly of a very +large Roman Catholic church without a congregation, standing +close to the original congregational church. The latter is a large +cool building, in which I gladly took refuge to escape from noise +and heat; for several friends who had driven down from Papeete +to meet us, were so delighted to find a smooth carpet, that they +commenced dancing immediately after late breakfast, and kept it +up merrily all the afternoon.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When the heat began to subside I found my way to the great +lighthouse, where the French officials were most obliging, and did +the honours of their lofty tower with all courtesy. From the +summit there is a grand view of mountains, including Orofena, +which is the highest point of Tahiti—height 7336 feet. At our +feet lay the village, concealed by a sea of waving palms, only their +crowns visible, and rippling like running water as the light breeze +passed over them. It was a splendid sketching-point, and I held +my ground till a party of the dancers came to summon me to the +banquet.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then followed as pretty a scene as I have ever witnessed. We +had to drive twelve miles to Papeete; and as the nights are dark, +and the moon was not due till towards midnight, we knew that +torches would be required—but only expected the necessary number. +The Tahitians had, however, resolved on a demonstration, to +show their appreciation of the course adopted by the admiral, and +their gratitude for his sympathy. So when we had toiled up a +long steep hill, about three miles from Point Venus, we were met +by a company of stalwart men carrying blazing torches of cocoa-palm +leaves, about twelve feet long. These turned and preceded +us, their numbers receiving continual reinforcements, some on horseback, +some on foot, till they mustered fully a thousand, and the +ruddy glare of the torches illumined the rich masses of foliage, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>gleaming on the glossy leaves of the bread-fruit, and the bright +sword-like fronds of the palms, while the lurid smoke lent something +of cloudy mystery to the whole. Add to this, the presence +of all the inhabitants, who of course poured out from every bird-cage +cottage along the road and joined the procession, adding their +quota of mirth and chatter to the general hubbub. Of course with +so many walkers we could only progress at a foot’s pace, and nine +miles of this at last became somewhat bewildering; it seemed as if +we were moving in a strange dream. A party of native drummers +added their very trying “music” to the general noise; but happily +the band fell into the spirit of the thing, and though their afternoon’s +work fully entitled them to rest, they played at intervals all +the way.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the outskirts of the town there was a halt, and in obedience +to municipal regulations every torch was extinguished, and we +entered the ill-lighted town in almost complete darkness. It was +a wise precaution, however, as the air was full of flying sparks, and +a conflagration would make short work of the dry wooden houses. +Happily the large crowd was quiet and orderly; and so far as I +am aware, I myself am the only sufferer from that half-hour’s +darkness, during which my beloved green plaid was abstracted +from the bundle in which I had placed it. I think I know the +thief—at least I have the strongest reason to suspect a half-caste, +in no way connected with Tahiti, save by residence. But I fear +there is not the slightest hope of ever recovering it. It was a large +green plaid, of “Black Watch” tartan, which has been my inseparable +companion and delight for many a year, and in many a strange +place. I have slept in it on the top of Adam’s Peak, and in the +wonderful jungle cities of Ceylon, and it has travelled to the remotest +corners of Australasia and Polynesia, and many and varied +are its associations with people and things.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Oh, my plaid was dear to me!”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c019'>and deeply do I abhor the covetous thief who has robbed me, so +infinitely beyond the value of a few fathoms of tartan;</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“For we cannot buy with gold</div> + <div class='line'>The old associations.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>Quite a number of the neighbours have called here to-day, and +welcomed me back as if I were an old friend returning from a +long journey. There is a cordiality and a heartiness about them all, +which is truly delightful. How different from a return to England +after a few years’ absence, when the people you had supposed to be +intimate friends vaguely ask you “if you haven’t been somewhere +abroad?” and perhaps, if they are unusually hospitable, invite you +to luncheon the following week!</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Friday, 26th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This morning Narii Salmon took me on board the Seignelay to +see my old friends and my old quarters. They welcomed me back +most heartily, and seemed really glad that I had seen the isle to +such advantage—but they themselves were all dull and sad. Time +has as yet done nothing to heal their grief, and indeed the ship +seems altogether changed, even externally, for she has been painted +white, to match La Magicienne.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I returned with Narii to breakfast with his sister, Mrs Brander; +there we were joined by the admiral, who came to make arrangements +with her for the next part of the programme; for she is as +sensible as she is handsome, which is saying much, and her opinions +and suggestions carry great weight with every one.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Already preparations are being made for another grand expedition, +for there are several lesser isles subject to the king of Tahiti; +and next week the Seignelay is to convey the king and queen and +their party to Moorea, the beautiful island which we passed on the +morning of our arrival in Tahiti, and of which Mrs Brander is the +high chiefess.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I hear that there is a chance of letters being despatched by some +vessel, so I may as well close this.... Your loving sister.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XV.<br> <span class='c009'>THE SEMAPHORE—IMMUTABLE TIDES—THE CORAL-REEF—SPEARING FISH—NETTING—CATCHING SHARKS—A ROYAL MAUSOLEUM—SUPERSTITIONS OF EAST AND WEST—CENTIPEDES—INTOXICATING DRINKS—INFLUENZA—DEATH OF MRS SIMPSON.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>The Rev. James Green</span>, <i>Oct. 27th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I have had a day after my own heart. In the early morning +Mr Green drove me to the foot of the semaphore hill, up which I +toiled, and gave myself into the care of the old sailor who lives +there, watching the horizon for the first glimpse of a sail, and then +hoists signals by which the good folk of Papeete learn from what +direction the new-comer may be expected. Then, as she draws +nearer, the signals reveal her class and her nationality.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I remained for several hours, working up an elaborate drawing, +begun soon after my arrival. The view of the town and harbour, +as seen from this point, is truly lovely, and the effect of a coral-reef, +as you look down on it from a height, is always fascinating. +Every conceivable tint seems to play beneath the surface—browns +and golds blending with pale aqua-marine and sparkling emerald, +while turquoise and cerulean pass into delicate lilac and purply +blue. The reef appears from the semaphore to lie in the form of a +horse-shoe, so that it literally suggests a rainbow beneath the +waters.</p> + +<p class='c008'>By the time Mr Green came to drive me back to breakfast, I +was truly glad to escape from the blazing sun, and to rest in this +pleasant home during the hot hours.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Late in the afternoon Narii lent us a boat, in which we rowed +out to the reef, always to me one of the most enchanting ploys that +can be conceived; and here it gains an additional charm from an +extraordinary phenomenon in the tides, which I am told occurs +throughout the Society Isles, but in no other place that I ever +heard of—namely, that they never vary from one year’s end to +another. Day after day they ebb and flow with unchanging regularity. +At noonday and at midnight the tide is invariably at the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>full; while at sunrise and sunset—in other words, at six o’clock +morning and evening—throughout the year, it is low water. The +rise and fall rarely exceeds two feet; but periodically, at an interval +of about six months, a mighty sea comes rolling in from the west +or south-west, and, sweeping over the reef, bursts violently on the +shore.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I do not know whether any scientific theory has been propounded +concerning this tidal eccentricity, which is perhaps the most remarkable +thing connected with the group.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I believe some writers have tried to account for it by reference +to the trade-winds, which blow so steadily at certain hours of the +day; but these must have been very inaccurate observers, as the +tides rise and fall with equal regularity in the most sultry calm or +the most riotous sea-breeze. In fact they are sometimes rather +higher in dead calms, and on the leeward side of the isles, which +are sheltered from the trade-winds. In any case, these blow only +in the daytime, and die away entirely at night. Curiously enough, +they do not even affect the periodical flood-tides, or rather tidal +waves, of which I spoke just now, as these invariably come from +the westward, whereas the trade-winds blow steadily from the east. +So punctual is the daily rise and fall of the tides, that the accustomed +eyes of the people can discern the hour of the day by a +glance at the shore or the reef, as at a marine chronometer, which +here never loses or gains time.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The peculiar charm of this, as concerns the reef, is that the low +tide, which is the hour of delight, always occurs at the coolest +hours of morning and evening, so there is no temptation to incur +sunstroke by exposure to the noontide rays. And the reef at +Tahiti is, beyond all question, the richest I have seen. It seems to +me that all the marvels of the Fijian reef are here reproduced on a +magnified scale—the mysterious zoophytes are larger, their colours +more intense, the forms of the fish more varied and eccentric, and +their scaly dress striped and zigzagged with patterns like those on an +ingenious clown, or perhaps suggestive of quaint heraldry.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-night I saw some gigantic specimens of that wonderful star-fish +we first found in Fiji, with fifteen arms covered with very +<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>sharp grey and orange spines like those of an echinus, and an +underside of pale-yellow fleshy feelers with suckers like those of +the sea-anemone<a id='r45'></a><a href='#f45' class='c017'><sup>[45]</sup></a>—a marvellously uncanny-looking compound. I +also saw thousands of prickly sea-urchins of divers sorts, from the +heavy acrocladia,<a id='r46'></a><a href='#f46' class='c017'><sup>[46]</sup></a> with spikes as large as your fingers and heavy as +stone, to the very brittle species no larger than a pigeon’s egg, and +covered with piercing needles five or six inches long—a particularly +unpleasant creature to step upon, especially with bare feet, as the +natives have. These echini are of all colours, from the richest +maroon and claret to purple and blue. Some are suggestive of +large full-blown thistles, and all more or less resemble hedgehogs +or porcupines. One very delicate flat kind is pure white, and +marked on the back with a very finely traced double star.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some of the water-snakes are very beautifully marked with blue, +gold, or green bars on a velvety black ground; they glide and coil +themselves in and out of the coral branches. I was much struck +by the immense size of some sea-anemones, as large as a wash-hand +basin: these also, are of all sorts of colours. These are the chosen +play-fellows of most exquisite tiny fish, like morsels of black velvet, +with a pattern exactly like a fairy peacock’s feather on either gill. +Not one of these exceeded two inches in length; and I watched a +shoal of about thirty playing hide-and-seek among the feelers of the +polype. You can hardly conceive anything so fascinating as the +glimpses of fairyland to be obtained by allowing your boat to float +at will in the shallowest possible water, while you peer down into +the wonder-world beneath you, where the many-tinted corals, seaweeds, +and zoophytes, form wonderful gardens, of which the brilliant +blue star-fish, and strangely beautiful sea-anemones, are the +gay blossoms.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The butterflies which woo these flowers of the sea are shoals of +the most exquisite minute fishes, which dart through the crystal +water like rays of opal. Now it is a group of turquoise blue, like +forget-me-nots of the deep, and as they vanish among green seaweeds, +out flash a merry party primrose-coloured. Then come a +little family of richest Albert blue, which pause a moment to greet +<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>their little friends the pure gold-fish; and as these glide in between +the rock-ledges, up swims a joyous little shoal of delicate pale-green +fish, with perhaps a tiny silvery eel or two; and some there are +pure scarlet, others bright blue streaked with scarlet. These and a +thousand more, varying in form as in colour, but all alike minute, +are among the tempting beauties which make me always wish you +were with me, that I might hear your raptures of delight.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There are some most attractive gold-fish with broad bands of +black, which terminate in wing-like fins; and others, still more +fascinating, are silvery, with a delicate rosy flush. Some are yellow, +striped with violet; others are pure scarlet, spotted with cobalt. +I think my favourites are bright turquoise blue with a gold collar. +Then there are some very large fish of the glossiest green, and +others of a dazzling crimson. But the most <i>distingué</i>-looking fishes +are those which temper their gay colours with bands or zigzags of +black velvet. Their forms are as varied as their colours, long or +short, round, flat, or triangular.</p> + +<p class='c008'>While these flash and dart in and out of their forest sanctuary, +you may see large shells travelling over the coral-ledges, a good deal +faster than you would suppose possible, till you see that they are +tenanted by large hermit-crabs. Other crabs are in their own lawful +shells, as are also the wary lobsters; and here and there are +scattered some rare shells, such as we see in collections at home, +and suppose to be quite common in the tropics, where, however, as +a rule, they are only obtained by professional divers. Of course +such as are washed up on the shore are dead shells, utterly worthless.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Quite apart from the mere delight to the eyes of gazing at these +varied beauties, the reef has its useful aspect in regard to the commissariat. +At every low tide a crowd of eager fishers repair thither, +to see what manner of supper awaits them.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here, as in all these isles where wild animals do not exist, the +sea furnishes the happy hunting-grounds of rich and poor. Swift +canoes or boats take the place of hounds and horses; and the coral-reef +affords as much delight to high and low, as a Scotch deer-forest +or heathery moor does to the wealthy few in Britain.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>Can you not fancy the thrilling excitement of standing on the +brink of the reef watching the huge green billows rolling in with +thunder roar, and curling their grand white crests ere dashing on +the rock in cataracts of foam, carrying with them many a strange +creature of the deep? For these the fisherman keeps keen watch, +standing with spear all ready poised to strike whatever may come +within his reach. But more exciting still is the fishing by torchlight +on the dark moonless nights, when a torch made of dried +reeds is carried in one hand, and the spear in the other, ready to +strike the unwary fish, attracted by the glare. Small fish are caught +with a different sort of spear, consisting of six or eight metal rods +lashed to a long stick; when this is dexterously plunged into a +shoal, some fish are pretty sure to be pinched and held firm.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Very often large parties go together to the reef, each bearing a +flaming torch, and sometimes they fish for eels in the rivers in the +same way. In either case the effect is most picturesque. I have +seen the shallow lagoon just inside the reef all illuminated by these +flashing lights, which tell where the canoes are gliding, and just +reveal the statuesque figures at the prow, with uplifted torch and +spear all ready poised: grand studies in bronze, as perfect models +as sculptor could desire, and rich bits of colour for the artist who +can render the warm ruddy glow, reflected by a well-oiled brown +skin, with a background of dark sea and sky.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At other times the sport lies in some form of netting. A whole +company of women assemble, laughing and chattering as only South +Sea Islanders can. Perhaps a dozen are told off to carry a great +net, which they sink when up to their necks in water; then forming +a wide semicircle, they gradually approach the shore, lifting +their net so as not to tear it on the rough coral-bed, and driving as +many fish as they can enclose towards the shallow water, whence +they can scoop them up in their little baskets, which they empty +into larger ones slung from the waist. In this way myriads of tiny +silvery fish are caught.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Sometimes the men adopt this method of driving larger fish +into shallow water, and then spear them in the way I have just +described. The best marksmen stand a little apart, watching keenly +<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>for any fish that may escape the net, and throwing their spears at +such fugitives with almost unerring aim. It is a scene of immense +excitement; and the fun of the sport is enhanced by the prospect +of an abundant supper. For this sort of fishing seine-nets are +made, 100 feet in length; or else several large nets, about 40 feet +long by 12 deep, are joined together so as to enclose a very wide +space.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Women carry small fine casting-nets in the hand, and throw +them so dexterously as often to enclose a whole shoal of little +fishes; some kinds are no bigger than whitebait. For larger fish, +akin to herrings and salmon, various nets are made of different +fibres, such as the hybiscus, banyan, or pandanus bark or flax, the +two latter being the strongest and most durable. Sometimes two +nets are thrown at the same time—an inner net with fine mesh, +and an outer one much coarser—to resist any larger fish which +might break through the inner one. They were weighted by stones +wrapped in cocoa-nut fibre, and the floats are made of hybiscus-wood, +which is found to be very buoyant. When the nets are +brought ashore, they are hung up to dry on the trees and shrubs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nowadays the ordinary hooks of commerce have almost superseded +the clumsy but efficacious hooks of pearl-shell or bone. +Those used in fishing for dolphin or bonitos were formerly attached +to a mother-of-pearl shank, about six inches long, carved to resemble +a fish. Excellent wooden hooks were also made by twisting +the young roots of the casuarina or iron-wood tree, and leaving +them till they had grown to a suitable size. In old days, when +sharks were considered a delicacy, they were beguiled by large +wooden hooks from twelve to fifteen inches in length. Cuttle-fish +are attracted by a bait very much resembling that used in Fiji, +where an imitation of a rat is made of cowrie-shells. I do not +know whether the Tahitians have a similar legend of the enmity +between the rat and the cuttle-fish. Here the cowrie-shells are +cut into pieces, and fastened one over another like the scales of an +armadillo, and so made into an oval ball the size of a rat. This +being attached to a strong line, is lowered from a canoe, and +gently jerked so as to move like a living creature. The cuttle-fish, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>which lies safely ensconced in some hole in the rocks, throws out +a long arm and lassoes its prey, the plated armour giving it a +firmer grip. Failing to draw in this unknown variety of rat, it +throws out another arm, and yet another, till at length it slips out +of its stronghold, and is drawn to the surface, holding its prize +firmly enlaced.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is not “all fish that comes to the net” in these seas. Many +which are wholesome at one season are downright poison during +the months when the coral is said to be in “blossom;” during +which time these fish crunch it with their strong teeth. Others +become poisonous by feeding on sea-centipedes—curious creatures +which twine themselves round the coral, and resemble yards of +black string with myriad tiny legs. There are certain fish which +may be eaten with impunity on one isle, and are positively deadly +if caught on other reefs. The natives themselves have sometimes +died by rashly trusting to their experience of their own fishing-grounds, +and so venturing to eat the identical fish caught elsewhere. +There are also certain sea-crabs which it is very unsafe to eat. +Curiously enough, all varieties of land-crab are said to be good for +food; but there is a white-shelled sea-crab which generally proves +fatal, and is sometimes eaten as a means of committing suicide.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Even shell-collectors have to be wary how they handle the +treasures they discover, as there are certain shell-fish which are +armed with minute barbs, through which they inject virulent +poison into the hand that touches them. The most dangerous of +these is a beautiful cone,<a id='r47'></a><a href='#f47' class='c017'><sup>[47]</sup></a> which has been known to cause death +within a few hours. No sooner is it touched than a thrill of +sharp pain flies up to the shoulder, and soon the body swells to +an enormous size, and the hapless sufferer dies in agony.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Do you remember a somewhat similar case—though happily it +did not prove fatal—which occurred on our own shores, when Mr +Hope G—— incautiously picked up a large jelly-fish, which so +poisoned his blood that weeks of torture ensued? These beautiful +sea-thistles (sea-nettles rather) are not to be touched with +impunity.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span>The men engaged in the <i>bêche-de-mer</i> fisheries find that those +hideous gelatinous slugs which appear so very helpless, are also +capable of inflicting severe pain. They resemble great sausages of +dark-coloured india-rubber, black, grey, red, or greenish, inflated +with sea-water. When touched, they eject this water with some +violence, and if it falls on any wound or scratch it produces dangerous +and agonising inflammation. The smallest drop squirted +into the eye causes intolerable burning pain; and many of the +tripang-fishers have their sight seriously injured from this cause.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But more noxious by far is the olive-green variety, which is +commonly called the leopard, from being marked with orange-coloured +spots. When this creature is touched it throws up +glutinous filaments like darning-cotton, which not only adhere +tenaciously to whatever they touch, but if they come in contact +with the human skin, they instantly raise a painful burning blister +and cause serious inflammation. Such being the case, it would +appear discreet to leave these ugly creatures unmolested; but as +they are accounted a great delicacy in China, and fetch from +£80 to £100 per ton, the risk is considered worth incurring.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another serious danger of the reef arises from the various +voracious sea-eels, which coil themselves up in the interstices of +the coral and dart out to seize any prey which comes within reach. +I was severely bitten myself one day while incautiously feeling +for small fish; but many natives have thus been maimed for life, +the loss of a few fingers being a comparative trifle. I heard of +one man in the Paumotu Isles who had the whole calf of his leg +bitten off by a <i>vaaroa</i>, or long-mouthed eel, a reptile which attains +a length of eight feet or more, and roams about the reef seeking +what it may devour. It was formerly an object of worship, in +common with the conger-eel; and bloody vengeance has on more +than one occasion been taken by the heathen on such of their +Christian neighbours as have presumed to eat this incarnate god.</p> + +<p class='c008'>About fifteen years ago, a party of about eighty persons reached +Samoa, after drifting over the wide seas for several weeks. They +had been driven away from the isle of Fakaofa, where several of +their number had been killed in consequence of having eaten congereels, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>which the people of that isle held in reverence. Another fish-deity +was the octopus, which in heathen days it would have been +sacrilege to eat, but which is now recognised as excellent food. I +have never tasted one myself, but I am told that, though it looks +so gelatinous, it really is tough and unpalatable.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The girls catch delicate young cuttle-fish in the shallows on the +reef; but sometimes the tables are turned and they are themselves +caught by overgrown monsters, which lie concealed in deep holes +in the coral, and throw out long arms covered with suckers, with +which they grasp whatever lies within reach and drag it inward. +Some of these measure fully six feet across the arms, from tip to +tip; and many horrible stories are current among the fishers of their +adventures with these hideous devil-fish. So fully do they recognise +the possibility of danger, that they rarely go out alone to dive +for these, or for clam-shells.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The latter have been known to close suddenly, and hold the +invader prisoner till he or she was drowned; and the octopii have +an unpleasant knack of throwing their arms so as to enfold an +enemy, who vainly struggles to extricate himself from their hateful +clasp: his arms are held powerless, and sometimes the hideous +creature wraps itself round his head, so that death is inevitable +unless haply his comrade comes to the rescue.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These fishers know the value of pouring oil on the waters as +well as the poachers on our own Scottish rivers, or the oyster-fishers +at Gibraltar and the Mediterranean generally, so they +invariably carry in their canoes a measure of cocoa-nut oil. By +sprinkling a few drops on the surface of the water, it becomes so +perfectly smooth that they can see right down through its crystal +depths, and detect the exact position of the creatures below. So, +when a diver remains under water longer than usual, his friend in +the canoe thus clears the surface, and, peering into the depths, +ascertains what is going on, and, if need be, dives to the rescue.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course these are not the only dangers encountered by the +fishers. There is the ever-abiding dread of sharks, especially +the awful white shark, which grows to about thirty feet in length, +and is so fearless that it is frequently known to attack canoes and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>drag its victims into the water, either by seizing some carelessly +outstretched limb or by overturning the canoe. It is a hideous +animal, with gigantic mouth and with broad serrated teeth. I saw +an enormous specimen hanging from the bows of a vessel which +was lying at anchor in the harbour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Even the small lagoon shark is not a pleasant fellow-swimmer, +though it rarely exceeds six feet in length. It ventures into very +shallow water, but makes its home in caves in the coral, in company +with its kinsman. In all these isles it is considered good food; +and in many of the groups (notably the New Hebrides and the +Hervey Isles) the bold fishermen actually dive into the shark-caverns, +contrive to pass a slip-knot round the tail of one of the +sleepers, and instantly rise to the surface, when their companions +haul the ugly monster, tail first, into the canoe, hitting him on the +head with all possible speed. You can quite understand that this +sort of fishing is by no means child’s-play. Sometimes, when a +diver has entered a cave, a shark will move so as to prevent his +exit, and then his only chance of ever returning to the surface lies +in the skill with which he can tickle or stroke the monster, so as +to induce it to move aside. Of course he only dares to do this if +the creature’s tail is towards him. Should it have turned the +other way, his fate is almost inevitably sealed, as the slightest +movement on his part would reveal his presence and consign him +to the shark’s maw; and on the other hand, though he is himself +wellnigh amphibious, a delay of a few seconds must cost his life.</p> + +<p class='c008'>One of the most unpleasant inmates of these waters is the +stingaree or sting-ray, which is a large flat fish, the spine of which +is prolonged to a sharp, barbed point, serrated on both sides. The +swimmer who unluckily comes in contact with this weapon receives +a dangerous wound, as the point probably breaks into his flesh, +and works its way inward with every breath he draws.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Even the globe-fish is an uncomfortable neighbour. It is the +hedgehog of the sea, covered with sharp horny spikes. It possesses +the curious faculty of filling itself with air till it becomes a perfect +ball, of the consistency of oiled parchment. Verily, those denizens +of the deep are strange!</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span><i>Tuesday, 30th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This morning, after a pleasant breakfast with Mrs Brander, M. +Vernier called for me in his pony-phaeton, and we drove to visit +Queen Pomare’s tomb, or rather the house in which the royal dead +of Tahiti are laid, and left for a while, till only bones and dust +remain. Then a specially appointed official goes at dead of night +and secretly carries the remains to some place—probably a cave +in the mountains—where they are safely buried; only a very +few trusted old adherents being allowed to know where they are +laid. The mausoleum is a hideous little house, standing on a bare +grass lawn by the sea. Till recently it was surrounded by a fine +old grove of sacred casuarina trees; but one unlucky day Ariiaue +was short of money (cruel report says of brandy!), and he actually +sold the venerated trees to some Goth, who cut them for common +timber.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I fancy that the jealous mystery which enshrouds the final burial +of royal bones may be traced to lingering traditions of witchcraft, +or some kindred superstition connected with the ancient system +of <i>taboo</i>, which prevailed throughout Polynesia, and entailed divers +diseases, and even death, on those who rashly tampered with things +belonging to high chiefs. The other day a man walked past this +door carrying a bunch of roses. Mrs Green was going to take one, +when a half-caste Tahitian cried out, “Oh, take care! they were +gathered in the garden of ——,” naming some one related to the +royal family. I then learnt that to take anything belonging to +royalty, or to wear a garment that has been worn by any of +them, or even to lie on their bed, or rest the head on their pillow, +is supposed to produce king’s evil. So implicit is this belief +among the older generation, that Queen Pomare always made up +bundles of her old clothes and sent them to sea to be sunk outside +the reef.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The cure for any person supposed to have incurred danger in +this manner savours of the celebrated prescription in hydrophobia, +“Swallow a hair of the dog that bit you.” The old queen was +greatly attached to one of Mrs Green’s little boys, whom, after the +curious fashion of this country, she called her adopted son, giving +<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>him a Tahitian name, by which alone he was known to the natives. +One day, after the boy had been much with the queen, a suspicious-looking +spot broke out on his cheek, and the native attendants +begged Mrs Green to go at once to the queen and ask her to take +the child into bed with her, and cover him up, which would avert +all danger.<a id='r48'></a><a href='#f48' class='c017'><sup>[48]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>This afternoon, for the first time since I landed, I have seen a +centipede—not one, but many, which were lying quietly hidden +beneath a mass of decaying fronds of the cocoa-palm. We put one +in a bottle; but though a large specimen for the Pacific, it is barely +six inches in length. These isles of the blest enjoy a perfect immunity +from all venomous creatures, with this one exception; and +it is a very innocent creature compared with the centipedes of other +lands, especially of Africa and South America. Unfortunately the +latter have lately been carried by foreign ships to some of the Leeward +Isles, and in the same manner scorpions have been brought to +Tahiti—a very unfortunate introduction. The centipedes, small as +they are, can give an agonising bite, which, however, is not actually +dangerous to human beings. They are chiefly fatal to poultry, +especially turkeys, which swallow them in mistake for worms, and +invariably die soon afterwards.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>These horrid creatures are highly phosphorescent, and leave a +trail of light as they move at night. If crushed, they emit a glow +of light, and hence were in olden days reverenced as an incarnation +of divinity; and Veri, the centipede-god, was worshipped at +Mangai, in the Hervey Isles, where a huge banyan-tree overshadowed +his <i>marae</i>, among the grey rocks, and where to this day +some say that gigantic centipedes keep guard over the hidden treasures +of the tribe of Teipe, formerly their devout worshippers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Speaking of phosphorescent things, did I ever tell you about the +curious luminous fungi which are found in the mountains of Fiji? +They gleam with a pale weird blue light, and the natives occasionally +play tricks at the expense of their superstitious neighbours, +suggestive of the turnip-ghosts of our own foolish young days.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another new experience of this afternoon has been tasting the +far-famed orange-rum, which is supposed to have such a deteriorating +effect on those addicted to it. It is weak, insipid stuff, like +mawkish vinegar. I should be very sorry to drink a wine-glassful +of it, but I should think a bucketful would scarcely have any effect +on the head, however seriously it might disturb other organs. I am +certain it is weaker than the cider of which English haymakers +drink twenty large mugs in a day with impunity.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But I am told that long before the introduction of oranges, and +the consequent invention of orange-rum, the Tahitians had been +taught by the Hawaiians how to distil an intoxicating spirit from +the root of the <i>ti</i> shrub,<a id='r49'></a><a href='#f49' class='c017'><sup>[49]</sup></a> which is highly saccharine, and is generally +baked, and made into puddings.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They invented a still of the rudest construction. For the boiler +they hollowed a lump of rock, and this they covered with an unwieldy +wooden cover, the rude stump of a tree, into which was +inserted a long bamboo, which rested in a trough of cold water, +and conveyed the distilled spirit into a gourd. This ponderous +boiler was set on two layers of stones, leaving a space for a fire, and +was then filled with the baked <i>ti</i> root, which had been soaked till +fermentation had commenced. Then ensued wild orgies, when all +the people of the district gave themselves up to unbridled licentiousness; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>and having drunk till they were mad, generally ended +by quarrelling, so that it was not an uncommon thing to find the +remains of one of these rude stills overturned and scattered on the +ground, and around them the corpses of those who had ended their +drunken bout by a free fight, in which clubs and stone axes had +proved efficient weapons.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The practice of this very unpleasant vice spread rapidly to other +isles, and was one of the serious hindrances met with by the early +missionaries. Thus, when Raiatea had for some time been looked +upon as a model island, it only needed the arrival of a trading ship, +and of a cask of spirits, to produce an outbreak on the part of King +Tamatoa (not the present man), which was instantly followed by +the mass of the people, who in their reawakened craving for spirits +prepared about twenty stills, all of which were in full operation, +when Mr Williams, returning after a short absence, found the island +which he had left so orderly and flourishing, all given up to mad +drunkenness.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Having had their bout, the people were naturally rather ashamed +of themselves, remembering how nobly their grand old chief, the +original Tamatoa, Queen Pomare’s grandfather, had kept his vow +of temperance during the fifteen years he lived after becoming a +Christian. Previous to that time he too had been a heavy drinker, +and being a man of gigantic strength, and six feet eleven inches in +height, he was not pleasant company when drunk. So it was a +happy hour in which he vowed never again to touch any intoxicating +liquor, and became the most constant attendant at school and +chapel.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When his favourite daughter Maikara, the governess of Huahine, +heard of this outbreak in Raiatea, she went over, with some of her +trusted officers, to help the orderly remnant in the isle to carry out +the laws for the destruction of all stills; and though in some +districts they met with considerable opposition, they effected their +purpose thoroughly. Not long afterwards a temperance society was +formed, which seems to have worked satisfactorily on the whole, +though of course individuals sometimes succumb to the temptations +so cruelly offered by foreign ships.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>Evidently drunkenness is no longer admired as a kingly attribute, +for the Raiateans banished the present Tamatoa, who was formerly +their king, because of his disagreeable habit of taking pot-shots at +his subjects when he was very far gone. I am happy to say he +does not now indulge in this obnoxious practice, which would be +particularly dangerous to us, as he lives in the next house, and +frequently entertains us with wild rollicking songs, which, however, +are not nearly so hateful as his habit of beating a large drum for +several hours at a time! an entertainment which must be particularly +trying to his sweet gentle wife, the charming Moë, concerning +whom even the Frenchmen always speak with unbounded respect, +and whose faithful love to her jovial but very trying spouse has +continued unshaken, notwithstanding all the homage of one sort +or another with which she has been loaded, including that of the +author of ‘South Sea Bubbles.’</p> + +<p class='c008'>Just now every one is anxious about her, for she is daily expecting +a small addition to her family, and is exceedingly ill with +influenza—a very violent form of which has recently broken out, +severely affecting lungs and throat. It is a real epidemic. A number +of people have died from it, and such a multitude are suffering, +that the town seems <i>morne</i> and sad. Even the band is deserted +and the church is empty. Tamatoa himself, and the queen’s two +sisters, Titaua Brander and Moetia Attwater, are among the sufferers. +Mrs Miller and her grown-up sons, Mme. Fayzeau and her +children, and all Mrs Green’s children, are really very ill—high +fever accompanied by utter prostration of strength being among the +symptoms.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is a most extraordinary fact that on every one of the Polynesian +groups the natives declare that influenza was never known +till white men came; and now it is one of the regular scourges of +the Pacific, returning almost every year in a greater or less degree, +but occasionally proving very severe and fatal, especially to old folk. +It is generally preceded by westerly or southerly winds, and passes +off as the steady trade-winds set in bringing fine settled weather. +It first appeared in Samoa in 1830, just when the first missionaries +Williams and Barff touched the group, and was of course attributed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>to their machinations. In the New Hebrides, where it proved a +very serious scourge, it led to the murder of many teachers, who +(as I think I have already told you) were considered to be the +disease-makers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Among those now suffering from it, is dear old Mrs Simpson, +the “mother of missions” in these parts, of whose “pure Biblical +English” Lord Pembroke spoke so admiringly. She is now on a +visit to Mrs Brander, to whom she has been like a second mother. +There I have frequently met her, and we have become great +friends. She is planning that I am to visit her daughter, Mme. +Valles, who is married to a retired French officer, and has a plantation +on Moorea. I hope to see it in the course of a few days.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 31st Oct.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Alas! the influenza has done its work quickly. Only yesterday +morning I was breakfasting with Mrs Brander on my return from a +lovely early ride with Narii, up the Fautawa valley; Mrs Simpson +was unable to appear, and afterwards a messenger came to tell Mr +Green that she was very ill. In the night I was wakened by a +man with a lantern standing at my open window; he brought tidings +of her death.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is a most trying moment, for this real sorrow occurs just when +all those who were most devoted to the clever, good, and loving old +lady, are compelled from their position to take a leading part in +the festivities for the royal reception in Moorea. Mrs Brander, as +chiefess of the isle, has to make every sort of festal preparation—and +now, in addition to these, she has to make all arrangements +for the funeral of her loved old friend, whose body will be carried +to Moorea to-morrow on board the Seignelay. It will be a terrible +shock for poor Mme. Valles, who to-day is preparing for all the gay +doings of to-morrow, little dreaming that besides all the expected +friends, whose visit would have been such a delight, <i>one</i> will return +silent—never more to leave the isle where her lips first taught the +words of life to many....</p> + +<p class='c008'>We start for Moorea to-morrow morning.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVI.<br> <span class='c009'>THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND MOOREA—THE SEIGNELAY STARTS FOR THE MARQUESAS AND PAUMOTUS—INDECISION.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Rev. James Green, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Sunday, 4th Nov.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dearest Nell</span>,—All the others have gone off to the Tahitian +church. As I find, from long experience, that attending service in +an unknown tongue tends to produce habits of the strictest inattention, +I thought I might as well stay at home and have a talk with +you. We returned from Moorea yesterday, and I am still very +tired. This expedition has been very fatiguing, and somewhat +bewildering, from the manner in which everything was hurried; +there was really no time to enjoy anything; it was all a rush to get +over the ground.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For some reason unknown, the admiral determined to accomplish +the grand round in two days, which did not allow of a halt at half +the districts. This was the more tantalising as the island is indescribably +lovely, and I longed to linger at every point. The day +of our start was equally hurried, and the people had received such +very short notice, that they were quite unprepared for the royal +visit, and somewhat disconcerted in consequence. And then the +combination of mourning with ceremonial rejoicing was a very distressing +element.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On Thursday morning one of the Seignelay boats came here to +take me on board at 7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, and soon afterwards the king and queen +arrived, escorted by the admiral and many officers of La Magicienne. +Mrs Brander and all her family party soon followed. But our +wonted gaiety was altogether lacking, for there was a solemn presence +in our midst, and we all knew that beneath the Union-jack, +which was spread as a pall, lay the coffin containing the remains of +one very dear to many in these isles. Her husband was buried on +Moorea, near the spot where his daughter now lives; and now the +two faithful workers have been laid side by side in this far country</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>Two hours steaming brought us to Vaianae Bay, whence we +rowed ashore to Afareaitu, a distance of about two miles. Thence +the boats returned to the Seignelay, which proceeded to the other +side of the isle to find good anchorage.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On landing, we were received by the head men, in very fine +<i>tiputas</i> (the much-decorated upper garment of native cloth). These +they presented to the admiral and the king. But our arrival was +so premature, that the reception was on a small scale—the people +not having had time to assemble. After breakfast I secured a rapid +outline of the strange beautiful hills, then we had to hurry away, in +excellent boats, the property of Tahitians.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As we rowed along inside the reef, each turn revealed new +marvels of that most lovely coast, which combines the softest +beauties of rich foliage with the most weird grandeur of mountain +gloom. The island is by far the most wonderful I have ever seen. +Just one confused mass of basaltic crags and pinnacles, lofty ridges, +so narrow that here and there where some part has broken away +you can see the sky through an opening like the eye of a needle. +Nature seems to have here built up gigantic rock-fortresses, mighty +bastions and towers which reach up into heaven; pyramids, before +which those of Gizeh would appear as pigmies, and minarets such +as the builders of the Kootub never dreamt of. It is as though +some huge mountain of rock had been rent asunder, and its fragments +left standing upright in stupendous splinters. Some one +has unpleasantly compared these to asses’ ears, and I am fain to +confess that the description is good, so far as outline is concerned.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I had caught glimpses of some of these amazing stone needles +and towers as we passed Moorea on the first morning, but then +they only appeared mysteriously through the drifting vapours, +which idealise and magnify the most commonplace crags. Now +there were no mists, and the huge pinnacles stood out sharp and +clear against a cloudless sky, while far below them the riven rocks +lay seamed by narrow chasms—dark sunless ravines, moist with +the spray of many waterfalls, and rich with all green things that +love warm misty shade.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I believe that when reduced to figures, the mountains of Moorea +<span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>are found to average only half the height of those in Tahiti, the +latter rising to upwards of 7000 feet, while the highest peak of +Moorea, Afareaitu, is only 3976 feet. But the strangely varied +forms of the latter are so remarkable, that a few thousand feet +more or less seem a matter of indifference.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I did long to crave a few moments’ halt from time to time, to +secure ever so slight an outline of some specially striking scene, +but of course I dared not suggest it, as we were evidently bound +to “make good time” (that crime in travelling, which so many +mistake for a virtue). The result was, that we reached Haapiti at +2 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span> Mrs Brander, who had hurried on at once to make her +preparations, had counted on our not arriving till four at the +earliest, so of course nothing was ready.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The admiral went to examine schools, and I lost no time in +settling down to a large sketch of the beautiful and fairy-like +scene—the grand mountain amphitheatre of stupendous crags and +precipices, a middle distance of richest foliage, and in the foreground, +on a lawn of greenest turf, the pretty temporary building +of palm and bamboo, erected for the banquet. The interior was +lined with tree-ferns and bunches of rosy oleander, and festooned +with many hundred yards of deep fringe made of hybiscus fibre. +The thatch was entirely composed of the long glossy fronds of +birds’-nest fern,<a id='r50'></a><a href='#f50' class='c017'><sup>[50]</sup></a> which, being tough and leathery, make a good +permanent thatch, and one which lasts much longer than banana-leaves, +though, of course, it is more troublesome to arrange in the +first instance. It seems too bad to sacrifice such an incredible +number of these beautiful plants. The only consolation is, that +they grow in places so inaccessible that no human eye ever beholds +them, save that of the goat-like cragsman who explores the deep +ravines in search of the wild <i>faees</i>, which constitute the principal +article of food on these isles.</p> +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/p2282_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>A ROYAL RECEPTION. HAAPITI. ISLE MOOREA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Shortly before sunset all the people of the district assembled, +each with a piece of yellow native cloth thrown over their black +dresses like a shawl, to symbolise joy in sorrow. They formed an +immense procession, headed by Mrs Brander as high chiefess. She +<span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>was dressed entirely in black, only relieved by a most becoming +crown of glossy white arrowroot, with a plume of snowy <i>reva-reva</i>. +Immediately after her followed the gentlemen of her family, wearing +very beautiful <i>tiputas</i> of bread-fruit bark cloth, covered with +ornaments and flowers made of arrowroot and bamboo fibre, and all +fringed with the delicate <i>reva-reva</i>. They made an address and +sang the <i>himènes</i> of welcome which should have greeted the +royalties on their landing. Then the chiefs presented their +beautiful garments to the principal persons present, and all the +people laid their yellow scarves and pretty hats at their feet. +One of the <i>tiputas</i> was intended for me, but as I sat apart to see +the general picture, it was unfortunately given to some one else; +but Mrs Brander reserved for me a most delicate hand-screen of the +finest fibre.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Then followed a great dinner, admirable in every respect, the +pretty booth being illuminated by a multitude of Chinese lanterns; +and the <i>himène</i> singing, which was continued at intervals all the +evening, was particularly good. The sleeping arrangements were +less satisfactory, there having been no time to make preparations +for so large a party; so my hostess had only reserved one tiny +room for herself, two children, two native women, and me. It +was a foreign house, with windows. These were tightly closed, +and a bright lamp kept burning all night,—both circumstances +fatal to all chance of sleep,—so I preferred a shake-down in the +sitting-room. Unfortunately, my experience of the luxuries of +Tahiti had induced me to travel without my own mosquito-net; +and the attacks of these persistent foes, combined with the perpetual +movement of locomotive women, incessantly opening the +door at my head and admitting a stream of bright light, effectually +banished all hope of sleep. It was a night of feverish unrest,—a +bad preparation for the morrow.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Again came a hurried morning start in good native boats,—the +coast, beautiful as that of yesterday. We had a strong wind and +tide against us, and made slow progress. After a severe pull of +three hours, we stopped at a point where the rowers landed to rest +and get cocoa-nuts; but hordes of mosquitoes attacked and routed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>us, even following us on our way. Finally we landed, and walked +the last two miles to Papetoai, on Opunohu Bay, where the Seignelay +anchored last night.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Simpson’s body was brought ashore this morning, and as +the people were all too much fussed to mourn their old friend and +clerical mother (at least externally), the coffin was carried to the +church by French sailors; and they and their officers were the only +persons present, besides the immediate relations, at a sort of preliminary +service held by M. Brun, the Protestant pastor.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Breakfast, chiefly consisting of omelets which had been cooked +at 7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, was not served till noon; and as I had only succeeded in +securing a bit of biscuit before starting, I was so famished that one +of the officers went to forage on my account, and returned in +triumph with a yard of bread! This proved so satisfying, that, +craving permission to escape from the formal meal, I returned on +board with my old shipmates, and secured a careful drawing of the +wonderfully lovely mountains ere the rest of the party came on +board. One young sailor came to great grief in trying to climb a +cocoa-nut tree—an operation which appears very easy to the expert +islanders, but sorely puzzles a foreigner. This poor lad fell from a +considerable height, breaking his arm and severely injuring his +head. So the kind doctor had his hands full, and no time to enjoy +the beautiful scenery.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We steamed round to Pao Pao, commonly known as Cook’s Bay, +which is also very fine. Here we left the steamer, and, taking to +the boats, rowed four miles to Tiaia, which is a pretty village by +the sea. On one side of it there is a splendid grove of glossy-leaved +<i>tamanu</i> trees, and a few fine old iron-wood trees—the +casuarina—all that now remains of what was once a very sacred +grove surrounding the ancient <i>marae</i>. Now the Christian church +occupies the site where formerly human sacrifices were offered to +the cruel gods. At a distance of about two miles from this village +there is a brackish lake—Lake Temae—about a mile in length. +It contains good fish, and many wild duck haunt its sedgy and +very muddy shores. Under the impression that it was very much +nearer, I joined the exploring party. We had to make a <i>détour</i> of +some length, and found no beauty to compensate for a very fatiguing +walk of upwards of four miles, which, combined with that of the +morning, quite finished me. I could not even sit up for the evening +<i>himènes</i>, which was a matter of real regret, as the singers here +are considered the very best in the group. Several of the women +have very fine falsetto voices.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/p2301_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>PAO PAO, OR COOK’S BAY. ISLE MOOREA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>To my great delight, in apportioning our quarters, M. Hardouin, +A.D.C., awarded me a tiny house all to myself—the owners kept +only the outer room; and when they went off to join the <i>himènes</i> +they locked the door to keep their charge safe. Happily one of +my friends on the Seignelay had lent me a mosquito-net, so I slept +the blessed, dreamless sleep of the weary.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the morning at 6 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, as I was dressing leisurely for 7 o’clock +coffee, Queen Marau rushed in to say the admiral was all ready for +a 6 o’clock start. Thereupon followed a horrid hurry-scurry to get +ready, and a four miles’ row back to the vessel. At 7.30 she was +under way, and at 10 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> we were at anchor in Papeete harbour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Altogether this has been a most tantalising expedition, an unsatisfactory +hurrying over scenes of surpassing beauty. Mrs Brander +says that if I will stay some time longer in Tahiti she will take +me back there and let me pasture at leisure in that artists’ paradise. +Fain would I linger,—indeed all manner of delightful ploys are +proposed, but all involve time, and I have promised to meet Lady +Gordon at Christmas, either at Auckland or Sydney, according to +what I hear at Honolulu, so I must not lose the chance of the first +vessel to the Sandwich Isles.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Tuesday, 6th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>It has been decided that one of Mrs Brander’s vessels, the Maramma +(<i>i.e.</i>, the Moon), is to start for Honolulu on Saturday, so +that settles the time of my departure from Tahiti. It is also +announced that on Thursday the Seignelay is to be sent off to +the Marquesas, to convey a force of gendarmes to inquire into +some recent outbreaks of cannibalism. Mrs Brander has been +most kindly renewing her invitation to me to stay with her till +the next trip of the Maramma to Honolulu—a matter of two +<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>months! It is most tempting, but I feel bound to go. At the +band to-night, Mr Darsie, manager of the <i>Maison Brandère</i>, expressed +his astonishment that I should lose such a chance of seeing +the Marquesas and the Paumotus, adding that the manager of the +business for those groups was going to take the trip, and would +enable me to see everything to the greatest advantage, and the ship +is to return here in a fortnight. Certainly it would be quite delightful, +but what <i>is</i> the use of suggesting the impossible?</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 7th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Early this morning we went on board the Maramma to see the +cabin which Mrs Brander has kindly reserved for me—the best in +the ship. It made me sad to look at it and to think that it is to +carry me away for ever from this supremely lovely South Sea paradise. +All to-day we have had a succession of visits from my kind +friends of the Seignelay, to urge my giving up Honolulu in favour +of Les Marquises, or, if that could not be, to <i>faire les adieux</i>. At +the very last came M. de Gironde, who is always my good genius, +to try and prove that it was not too late to change my mind, and +that his cabin was at my disposal as before. Surely there never +was a ship full of such kind people. Of course it would be quite +delightful to go and see another lot of beautiful isles; but after all, +I suppose they are very much like these, and my brain already +feels overcrowded with pictures, each lovelier than the last. So, +for every reason, it seems best to stand true to my tryst, and be +content with a run to the volcanoes, and then drop down to the +comparatively commonplace scenes of Australia or New Zealand.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This has been quite a sad day of farewells. We dined with the +Verniers and afterwards went to the admiral’s reception—a very +pretty and animated dance.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Thursday, 8th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>At nine this morning the Seignelay steamed close past our +windows, and great was the farewell waving of hats and handkerchiefs. +I grieve to part from the many kind companions of so +<span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span>many pleasant days (and of sad ones too); and I would fain be +going on with the good ship now, for I sorely regret the approaching +end of my travels in these parts.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-night we dined at Mrs Brander’s. The party included a +large number of officers from the Magicienne. It was a farewell +entertainment, as Mrs Brander’s son Aleck and Mr Darsie both go +to Honolulu in the Maramma (the latter <i>en route</i> to England). +They too are going to see the volcanoes; but if they are rightly +informed concerning the trips of the little Hawaiian steamer, I +begin to have very grave doubts of the possibility of my visiting +the southern isles at all, if I attempt to carry out my programme, +even supposing we have a fair wind and quick passage to Honolulu, +which is more than doubtful.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Friday, 9th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>A wretched sleepless night, worrying over plans. Difficulties +always do exaggerate themselves so absurdly if one lies awake. +Out at daybreak to get a sketch from the shore. It is all working +against time, and my heap of unfinished drawings is a serious +nightmare. I have been struggling to get several duplicate +sketches finished for various friends, and I feel like a graphic +barrel-organ—an unreasoning machine for the multiplication of +drawings; and the ever-recurring thought arises, Why not stay +and have the delight of working from nature, as the kind friends +here advise, when after all it is more than probable that the +Christmas tryst will fall through? But anyhow, I have missed +the chance of Les Marquises, and it would seem too silly to change +my mind now.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander came to-day to say good-bye, but added emphatically, +“You’re not gone yet, however!” There’s no doubt that +her invitation to stay on is quite <i>bonâ fide</i>; but for two months +at least! What a visitation to inflict on any one!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Miller drove me to call on the Bishop of Axièri, Monseigneur +Tepano Janssen, who is most kind and courteous. He showed +us all over his grounds, which are literally a garden of acclimatisation, +so numerous are the useful plants of other lands which he +<span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>is endeavouring to introduce. It is greatly due to his care that +the mangoes of Tahiti have been brought to such perfection. The +conversation turned on many subjects of interest. Amongst other +things, speaking of the effect of many mingled sounds, he told us +of the deafening noise produced by the cries of sea-birds on some +of the isles where he has touched, on one of which he witnessed a +strange instance of combined action by myriads of sea-birds and +herons; the former, diving simultaneously, produced a noise like a +thunder-clap as they struck the water. The dignified herons profited +by their neighbours’ work, and waited on the shore ready to +catch the startled fish as they fled affrighted from the divers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This evening the admiral invited Mrs Miller, Madame Fayzeau, +and myself, to dine on board La Magicienne. She is a very fine +old-fashioned frigate, with vast accommodation, splendid broad +decks of great length. The admiral has a large dining-room, and +a sitting-room the size of an average drawing-room, with four large +square windows opening into a gallery round the stern—a charming +lounge in fine weather. Commandant Beïque has rooms +equally pretty, on the same level, each with a large square window +(I cannot call them ports). They are so high above the water that +they scarcely ever have to be closed—a true boon in the tropics. +I never saw so roomy a ship. With all her big guns, five hundred +sailors, and thirty officers, there was no symptom of crowding. +Amongst the officers are two belonging to the Peruvian navy, who +have come to study the French system of navigation. One of +these is remarkable for his diminutive size and extraordinary +strength; the biggest men in the ship cannot wrestle with him, +nor fight him (in sport).</p> + +<p class='c008'>After dinner we adjourned to Government House grounds to +hear the band play, as usual; then all walked back by the shore +to the British consulate, for a farewell evening, and finished it here +in this sweet homelike nest. I do grieve that it should be the +last evening, the more so as I am beginning to believe that what +all my friends here agree in saying must be true—namely, that +when I made my vague calculation of reaching Sydney for Christmas, +it was on the principle of Jules Verne’s ‘Round the World +<span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>in Eighty Days.’ They say that to attempt fitting the Sandwich +Isles volcanoes into the time is preposterous folly. I think they +are right, but it is too late to change now. What further concerns +me is the thought, which had not previously presented itself, that +very likely, after all this pushing and scrambling, and spoiling +everything by useless hurry, Lady Gordon may have given up +the idea, and may stay quietly in Fiji till she is obliged to take +the children direct to England,<a id='r51'></a><a href='#f51' class='c017'><sup>[51]</sup></a> and I may never know this till I +reach Sydney.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Saturday, 10th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Another weary night—perplexing and conflicting suggestions—the +horrid feeling of being disloyal to a tryst, yet the certainty that +nowhere else shall I find such beauty as I am leaving. Those unsketched +dolomites of Moorea—those ferny ravines all unexplored—those +glorious valleys of bread-fruit—the <i>himènes</i> that I shall +never hear again! And every one agrees in telling me that the +Hawaiian Isles are not to compare with these in beauty,—that the +hills are comparatively shapeless, the foliage poor, the bread-fruit +sickly and blighted, the cocoa-palms mere ghosts of their southern +relations, and the mangoes miserable fruits, not worthy to bear +the same name as the luscious mangoes of Tahiti. They tell me, +too, that the people are much less attractive; that they have taken +on so much blunt civilisation, that they have lost whatever native +grace they may have once possessed. Even the same garment—the +flowing <i>sacque</i>—is there worn so short and full that it is +scarcely to be recognised, and instead of floating drapery it becomes +a mere dress.<a id='r52'></a><a href='#f52' class='c017'><sup>[52]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Well, I must now begin my packing. There will be time +enough for writing before we reach Honolulu.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>Saturday Afternoon</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Jubilate! Jubilate! The Maramma is to start in an hour, but +will leave me to revel in South Sea loveliness till her next trip. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span>This morning, just as I was putting the finishing touches to my +packing—I must confess very much <i>contre-cœur</i>, and quite in the +vein of Eve’s lamentation, “Must I leave thee, Paradise?”—up +drove pretty Queen Marau and her handsome sister Moetia, who +carried the position by assault,—vowed it was not too late to change +a foolish plan; so leaving Moetia with her cousin Moë, Marau +made me jump into her pony-phaeton and drove me straight off to +Fautawa, where her sister Titaua, Mrs Brander, was giving a great +entertainment to all her <i>employés</i>, previous to her son’s departure +for Honolulu. Then and there she made me recant all my previous +protestations and refusals of her most hospitable invitations, and +in two seconds all was settled. I am to be her guest till the Maramma +returns, and is again sent to Honolulu.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now that it is all settled, I feel quite satisfied and reprieved; +so instead of a long letter written on board ship, I must despatch +this as it is. We are just hurrying to the wharf to say good-bye to +our friends, and then I look forward to a grand night’s rest, for I +am thoroughly tired.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have been hoping against hope that a letter might reach me +here, <i>viâ</i> New Zealand; but the schooner thence is about a month +overdue, and it is feared she has gone on a reef. Good-bye.—Your +loving sister.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVII.<br> <span class='c009'>VAIN REGRETS—SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MARQUESAS AND THE PAUMOTU GROUPS.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>November 11th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I am certainly very glad that my good friends here supplied the +moral courage which I failed to find, and so enabled me to repent +at the eleventh hour. I do rejoice in the sense of repose, knowing +that for at least two months I may now explore the many scenes of +enchantment which lie on every side, without a thought of hurry.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span>Yet even this joy is not unmixed. I do find it very hard to be +truly philosophical, and not to cry over spilt milk, when I think +of the delightful cruise to the Marquesas and Paumotus, which +would so admirably have filled up this first fortnight, had I only +been able to decide three days earlier.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But it was not till the hospitable ship had sailed, that I found +leisure soberly to think the matter over, and to realise how very +rare and precious a chance I had so idiotically thrown away. +When your eyes are satiated with grand scenery, and each lovely +group of isles seems only to differ from the last in its degree of +special beauty, you are apt to think that really you have seen +enough, and may as well pause and be satisfied with all the +exquisite pictures which crowd before your memory. So, when +these most kind friends urged me to accompany them on this expedition, +I was so absorbed in working up some of the innumerable +sketches made on the last trip, that I never took time to think out +the subject in all its bearings, and to see how impossible it would +be for me to reach Honolulu by sailing-ship, see all the wonders of +the Sandwich Isles, and then return to New Zealand or Sydney +before Christmas, as I had proposed doing.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Neither did I at all realise how very few travellers have ever +seen the Marquesas, and how very little is known about them by +the general public, beyond the bare facts of their having been discovered +by the Spaniards in 1595, and by them named after the +Marquesas de Mendoza, the Viceroy of Peru.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They then seem to have been forgotten till about the year 1777, +when they were visited by Captain Cook, who has recorded his +admiration of their loveliness, and declared that the inhabitants +were the finest race he had seen, “in fine shape and regular +features perhaps surpassing all other nations,” “as fair as some +Europeans, and much tattooed.” He found fine harbours, from +twenty to thirty fathoms deep, close inshore, with clear sandy +bottom; good store of wood and water; and at first the natives +seemed inclined to receive the strangers kindly, but became less +cordial on further acquaintance.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Soon afterwards the London Mission endeavoured to establish a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span>station in the group, but found the people such savage cannibals, +that the position was untenable, and they were forced to abandon +it. From that time forward we have only an occasional record of +some American man-of-war having touched there, invariably confirming +Cook’s account of the beauty of the people and of the +isles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In 1837 the French sent out an exploring expedition commanded +by D’Urville, whose somewhat remarkable official orders were, +“<i>d’apprivoiser les hommes, et de rendre les femmes un peu plus +sauvages!</i>”</p> + +<p class='c008'>The result of his report was, that the French decided on establishing +themselves in the Marquesas, the Society, and the Paumotu +Isles. Accordingly, in 1842, an expedition sailed from Brest to +effect this purpose, its destination being a secret known only to its +commander. The Marquesas were selected as the best centre of +operations. A squadron of four heavy frigates and three corvettes, +commanded by Rear-Admiral Du Petit Thouars, accordingly astonished +the natives by suddenly appearing in the lovely harbour of +Taiohae, on the island of Nukuheva; and very soon these simple +folk learned the full meaning of the gay tricoloured flags and bristling +broadsides.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The ostensible pretext for this invasion was that of reinstating +Mowanna, the friendly chief of Nukuheva, in what the French +thought proper to assume as his ancestral right—namely, that of +ruling over the whole group of twelve isles, each of which had +hitherto considered itself as a distinct world, subdivided into +many antagonistic kingdoms. However, a puppet-king was the pretext +required, and Mowanna furnished it, and was rewarded with +regal honours and a gorgeous military uniform, rich with gold +lace and embroidery.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course he and his tribe of Nukuhevans were vastly delighted, +perceiving that they had gained omnipotent allies; and when five +hundred troops were landed in full uniform, and daily drilled by +resplendent officers, their admiration knew no bounds. They recollected +how, when in 1814, the U.S. frigate Essex, commanded +by Captain Porter, had refitted at Nukuheva, she had lent them a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span>considerable force of sailors and marines, to assist their own body +of 2000 men in attacking a neighbouring tribe. The latter had +offered a desperate resistance, and repulsed the allied forces, who, +however, consoled themselves by burning every village they could +reach, thus giving the inhabitants good cause to hate the white +men’s ships.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now, with the aid of these warlike French troops, the Nukuhevans +thought themselves sure of victory, with the prospect of retaining +the supremacy. But when fortifications were commenced, and the +troops surrounded their camps with solid works of defence, making +it evident that the occupation was to be a permanent one, a feeling +of detestation, mingled with fear of the invaders, gradually increased, +and was certainly not lessened by several sharp encounters, in one +of which, 150 natives are said to have been slain. However, the +reign of might prevailed, and the tricolour has floated over the +Marquesas unchallenged from that time to the present.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This appropriation of the Marquesas was immediately followed +by that of the Society Isles, whither the admiral proceeded in the +Reine Blanche frigate, leaving the rest of the squadron at the +Marquesas. He anchored in the harbour of Papeete, and sent a +message to Queen Pomare to the effect that, unless she immediately +agreed to pay somewhere about 30,000 dollars as an indemnity for +alleged insults to the French flag, he would bombard the defenceless +town.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The said insults were very much like those offered by the lamb +to the wolf in the old fable, the pretext raked up being simply +that Queen Pomare and all her people, having already become +stanch Christians, according to the teaching of the London Mission, +had positively refused to allow certain French priests to settle in +the isles, and found a Roman Catholic Mission, with a view to +proselytising. These proving obstinate in their determination to +remain, had, with all due honour, been conveyed on board a vessel +about to sail for some distant port, with a sensible recommendation +to pursue their calling on some of the many isles which +were still heathen.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French admiral now insisted that, in addition to paying the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span>indemnity demanded, the people of Tahiti should, at their own +expense, erect a Roman Catholic church in every district where +they had built one for their congregational worship.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The unhappy queen, terrified lest the arrogant Du Petit Thouars +should commence bombarding her helpless capital, yet utterly +incapable of complying with his unjust demands, fled by night in +a canoe to the isle of Moorea, knowing that no decisive action +could be taken in her absence. Her best friend and adviser +throughout these troubles was the British consul, Mr Pritchard. +The admiral, perceiving this, caused him to be arrested and imprisoned. +After being kept for ten days in solitary confinement, +he was put on board an English vessel out at sea, and forcibly +sent away from the islands without a trial or investigation of any +kind.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On his arrival in England the British Government naturally +demanded an explanation of such proceedings. M. Guizot replied +that the French authorities at Tahiti found they could make no +progress there because of Mr Pritchard’s great influence with the +queen—in other words, his determination, if possible, to see fair +play. The French Government, therefore, approved the action of +its officials, but promised to indemnify Mr Pritchard for what they +themselves described as his illegal imprisonment and pecuniary +losses. We have, however, Mr Pritchard’s own authority for the +fact that, in the year 1880, he had never received one single <i>sou</i> +of the promised indemnity; and England apparently considered it +the part of wisdom, if not of honour, to let the subject drop.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So the French pirates (for certainly in all this matter they acted +as such) compelled the poor queen and her chiefs to yield to their +demands. Some, indeed, strove to make a brave stand, and drive +the invaders from their shores; but what could these unarmed +warriors do against artillery? They retreated to their mountain +fastnesses, but French troops pursued them thither, built scientific +forts, and remained masters of the position. The good, sensible +queen, who had proved herself so wise a ruler of a happy and +peaceful people up to this terrible November 1843, was now +declared incompetent to govern. The French Protectorate was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span>established,<a id='r53'></a><a href='#f53' class='c017'><sup>[53]</sup></a> and the Reine Blanche having saluted the Protectorate +flag, desired the queen and chiefs to do likewise—an order which +they were unable to obey, till the admiral politely offered to lend +the necessary gunpowder! Thus was this buccaneering expedition +carried out, and France established as ruler in the three groups—the +Marquesas, the Paumotus, and the Society Isles.<a id='r54'></a><a href='#f54' class='c017'><sup>[54]</sup></a> It was a +South Sea version of</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold,</div> + <div class='line'>And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold;”—</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c019'>but in this case the lamb found no deliverer.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span>This bare historical outline was literally all I knew about the +Marquesas Isles, and I doubt whether you or any one else in +England knows much more.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now that through my ignorance I have thrown away such a +chance of visiting them, and also the Paumotus, I am told on all +sides that they are the loveliest group in the Pacific, ideal in their +beauty—embodied poems; and so I am fuming over my own folly, +and telling myself that a traveller who could let slip such a golden +opportunity must have reached second childhood, and is no longer +fit to wander at large. I try to be philosophical, and not fret over +the irrevocable; but of all the scattered leaves that I have yet +suffered to float past me on that “stream that never returneth,” +none has aggravated me so sorely as this. I am assured on all +hands that I should have received a genial welcome from the +French governor and Madame —— and their little society, and +that the expedition would have been in every respect exceptionally +delightful.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As it is, I can only gather a few faint visions of the lovely isles +by stringing together such particulars as I can learn respecting +them. To begin with, “Les isles Marquises” comprise twelve +volcanic isles, thrown up in wildly irregular black crags, the +central range of the larger isles towering to a height of 5000 feet, +while in many places inaccessible crags rise perpendicular from the +sea, but are so exquisitely draped with parasitic plants as to resemble +<span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>a succession of green waterfalls. Not that true waterfalls +are lacking. On the contrary, the mountains are furrowed with +deep ravines, in each one of which flows a sparkling river of clearest +water, fed by countless cascades, which fall from high cliffs, +and, uniting in the upper valleys, leap in rushing cataracts over +the sheer precipices, by which alone they may reach the lower +levels.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Six of these islands are inhabited—namely, Nukuheva, Hiva-oa +(commonly called Dominica), Tetuhiva, Tahuata, Uapou, and +Uahuna, Of these, the principal are Nukuheva and Dominica.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The former is about 17 miles in length by 12 in breadth—the +latter 20 by 7. The population of the group, which a few +years ago was roughly estimated at from 15,000 to 20,000, does +not now exceed 5000, of whom 3000 are the inhabitants of +Dominique. On all the other islands the population was decimated +about fifteen years ago by the so-called Peruvian labour +trade—in other words, remorseless kidnappers. Smallpox was +also introduced by foreign ships, and, as in all new countries where +it breaks out for the first time, swept the isles like a consuming +fire, leaving to this day the trace of its awful ravages.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It broke out in the year 1863, and quickly spread throughout +the group. On the isle of Nukuheva it raged with frightful virulence, +and carried off a great multitude. José, a Peruvian convert +who had found his way to the Marquesas, and established himself +as an evangelist, devoted himself with untiring patience and zeal +to the care of the sick, whose panic-stricken friends forsook them, +and left him alone to tend that terrible company of miserable +sufferers. Single-handed, he buried the dead; but, thanks to his +self-devotion, many recovered, and by his good influence were won +from their gross cannibalism and heathenism to the faith he so +nobly taught them by its practice. But just then the French +authorities sold all that district to Stewart & Co., a company of +English and French merchants, who converted it into cotton and +coffee plantations, and José was ordered to leave!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The new-comers took possession of lands wellnigh depopulated +by the terrible smallpox. Silence and desolation brooded over the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_244'>244</span>rich and beautiful valleys, where bread-fruit, cocoa-palms, guavas, +papaws, and all manner of tropical fruits ripened unheeded, for +there were none to gather them.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thus where a few years ago the natives could be counted by +thousands, there are now only scattered villages, thinly peopled.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Happily the ravages of constant intertribal wars are held in +check by the presence of the French. In former days the Marquesans +were fierce cannibals, and the inhabitants of each lovely +valley waged war to the death against all other tribes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The almost inaccessible mountain-ridges rise from the sea-level, +somewhat in the general form of a great star-fish, the space between +the arms being filled by verdant and most fertile valleys, where all +manner of fruit trees grow luxuriantly, and where the different +tribes live, each in its own territory, and well shielded by its +natural position from all incursions of its neighbours. For each +valley is thus enclosed by abrupt precipitous crags, several hundred +feet in height, over which leap cool sparkling rivulets, bringing +abundant moisture to irrigate the yam and <i>taro</i> crops, the sugar-cane, +cotton, and all the rich herbage which flourishes beneath the +dense foliage of bread-fruit and bananas.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Embowered in this green paradise are homes built of the yellow +bamboo, whose feathery foliage waves so gracefully in every direction. +The houses are thatched with palmetto-leaves, sun-bleached +to a dazzling whiteness. They resemble the Tahitian native houses, +but are built on oblong platforms of raised stones, such as those +which form the foundation of Fijian houses, and which are a necessary +protection against the damp of these isles, whose excessive +verdure tells of a heavy rainfall. The chief wealth of the people +lies in their pigs, which were introduced by the Spaniards, who +consequently were venerated as gods. Cats and rats are also foreign +importations. The group has literally no indigenous mammalia, +and indeed very few birds.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In former years the women manufactured native cloth, as in the +other groups, but now a considerable amount of gay calico lends +colour to brighten the scene. Here, however, as in other countries, +the French prove themselves bad colonists. In most respects the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_245'>245</span>Protectorate is merely nominal, and nothing in the way of improvement +flourishes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As I before mentioned, the first attempt of the London Mission +to establish a footing here failed signally.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In 1797, two Englishmen—Messrs Crook and Harris—were +sent out to try and establish a footing in the Marquesas. Harris +found his heart fail at the dangers and horrors of the position, so +he returned at once to Tahiti. Mr Crook worked alone for a year, +and then returned to England in search of helpers. He does not +seem to have resumed his dangerous post for some years, and then +merely visited the group. Meanwhile Tahitian converts were sent +out as teachers, but without much success, so they returned to +Tahiti. Others took up the work, and also failed to maintain their +ground.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In 1833, three American missionaries left the Sandwich Isles, +accompanied by their wives, and contrived to endure eight months +in Nukuheva, endeavouring to tame and Christianise its brutal +savages; but they also had to give up the attempt.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In 1834, a fresh party of English missionaries renewed the +effort, and struggled on till about 1840, when the London Mission +finally abandoned the field.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But in 1853, a Marquesan chief, Matanui, came to the Sandwich +Isles in a whale-ship, and requested that teachers should be sent +to his people. Thereupon Mr Bicknell, an Englishman, accompanied +by four Hawaiian teachers and their wives, agreed to return +with him to his island, Fatuhiva. Five days after they arrived, a +French brig anchored there, bringing a Catholic priest, who demanded +that they should be at once sent away, and declared that +the Marquesas belonged to France, and that no English teacher +would be tolerated. This statement was at once denied by the +chiefs, who refused to dismiss their teachers, though they by no +means yielded implicit obedience to their lessons, or even treated +them with uniform kindness. Nevertheless the Hawaiian teachers +have held their ground, and though discouraged and oppressed, +they have continued to work silently but steadily, training native +teachers from among their converts, establishing boarding schools, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_246'>246</span>whereby to separate their scholars from evil influence at home, +organising churches, and, in short, doing all in their power to +advance the good cause.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was felt that a great step had been gained when the oppressive +system of <i>tabu</i> had received its first blow by many of the +high chiefs coming to a feast at the mission, in company with +their wives, as heretofore it had been forbidden for father, mother, +or grown-up child to eat one with another—all had to feed apart; +and the same senseless prohibitions extended in endless ramifications +through all actions of life. Now the system of <i>tabu</i> has +fallen into neglect, and the Hawaiian Mission has gained ground, +notwithstanding much hindrance from the opposition and interference +of the Roman Catholic priests.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nevertheless, to all intents and purposes, the majority of the +people are still savages, and the present mission of the Seignelay +is to inquire into recent cases of alleged cannibalism, said to have +occurred in the interior of Dominica, where the hill-tribes and +fisher-tribes still live at constant enmity. It is said to be the +most fertile island in the group, and to have the largest population.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French governor is supported by sundry officials, and a +detachment of about sixty soldiers, a dozen <i>gens d’armes</i>, and a +few native police.<a id='r55'></a><a href='#f55' class='c017'><sup>[55]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span>The Catholic Mission consists of a bishop, with a considerable +number of priests, and a sisterhood like those on Tonga, Samoa, +and Tahiti. The priests work hard, but apparently with small +result. It is whispered that the presence of a large number of +very irreligious white men has a highly demoralising influence on +the natives—as we can well understand; and even the French +Government, which took such a lively interest in the introduction +of Catholicism to Tahiti, seems to take none in the progress of the +mission in the Marquesas.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the matter of stone and mortar a good deal has been done, +well-built churches having been erected in all the principal valleys, +in the proportion of one church to every 150 inhabitants. Unfortunately, +however, the people show small disposition to adopt +any form of Christianity. The queen Viakehu and a few of her +household are devout Catholics; and a little flock, who profess to +be Christians, rally round each of the missionaries, but the majority +continue heathen, with a deeply rooted belief in their old superstitions. +I have just received a photograph of one of the Marquesan +stone idols, with two of its worshippers. It is singularly +hideous, and the head is crowned with a circular capstone, resembling +on a small scale the crowns of Easter Island.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But if the Catholic Mission has hitherto failed in its ostensible +work, it has at least given the natives a good example of industry; +for every available inch of ground within reach of the mission is +under most careful cultivation, and is made to grow excellent +cotton.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Though the Marquesans are too idle to do any sort of planting +beyond what is actually necessary for the cultivation of their +gardens, the example set by the mission has been followed by +various settlers. Foremost among these is Captain Hart, a man +of great energy, who has done much to advance the trading interest +<span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span>of the islands, and who on one of his plantations employs forty +Chinamen, and about sixty natives of the Gilbert Islands—for +here, as in all other places where white men endeavour to cultivate +the land, they find it necessary to employ labourers imported +from other isles, as they cannot extract the same amount of work +from men living on their native soil.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Hitherto only about a hundred Chinese, and as many Gilbert +Islanders, have been imported, and cotton is the only article grown +expressly for exportation. Of course where cocoa-palms are so +abundant, a considerable amount of <i>coppra</i>,<a id='r56'></a><a href='#f56' class='c017'><sup>[56]</sup></a> is to be obtained; but +the natives have unfortunately been instructed in the art of making +palm-rum, and trees which have been tapped for this purpose +rarely recover their full strength as nut-producers. Happily, in +this matter, self-interest leads the colonists to support the missionaries +in their endeavours to dissuade the people from thus misusing +the palm-trees; but, on the other hand, foreign traders are +too ready to supply more fiery stimulants, and drunkenness prevails +to a grievous extent.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nearly all these isles supply one indigenous article of commerce—namely, +a kind of fungus, which is much appreciated in China. +It looks like dried-up leather, but is not unpalatable when stewed +or served in soup. A considerable amount of this is obtained in +most of the Marquesan valleys.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of colonists, properly so called, there are very few. About fifty +white men are scattered throughout the isles. Of these, some trade; +others cultivate the soil; while a few wander aimlessly from bay +to bay, island to island, living upon whatever the natives like to +give them: they are either too lazy to work, or too dishonest to +find employment. These men include waifs from all nationalities, +including Scotch, English, Irish, American, German, Spanish, and +Portuguese. Although a French colony, there are only three or +four French subjects who can be classed as colonists; but here, as +elsewhere, the frugal and diligent Chinaman seems likely to take +firm root.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nukuheva bay (where the Seignelay is probably now anchored) +<span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span>is described as surpassingly lovely. It is a perfect harbour, with +very deep water, and forms a horse-shoe about nine miles in circumference, +ending in two lofty and abrupt headlands. The +entrance is very narrow, barely half a mile across, and is guarded +on each side by small conical isles, rising about 500 feet above the +sea. All round the harbour the greenest of low hills swell in +gentle undulations, while behind these rise majestic mountains, +whence steep rocky ridges trend seaward, dividing the vast amphitheatre +into several distinct valleys, which, narrowing as they +ascend, become deep, romantic glens. Here and there snowy cascades, +gleaming through the rich verdure, tell where the precipitous +crags close in the valleys. Some of these barrier-cliffs rise perpendicularly, +to a height of perhaps 1500 feet. So rich is the growth +of parasitical plants, which cling to every crevice, that these mighty +rugged crags appear only to be green walls surmounted by black +basaltic pinnacles and cones, beyond which tower the blue peaks +of some of the higher ridges, which occupy the whole centre of the +isle, rising to a height of about 4000 feet.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There are in these sheltered vales many old men who, in all +their long lives, have never set foot out of their own little +boundary. Those vine-clad cliffs have hemmed them in, and the +mountain wilderness beyond has offered no inducement to roving. +No fruit, no game; only the certainty of excessive toil for no +reward, and the possibility of wandering unintentionally within +the territory of some other tribe, ever on the watch to slay any +imprudent straggler.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The lives of the women have been even more circumscribed, +owing to an extraordinary law of <i>tabu</i>, which prohibits a female +from setting foot in a canoe; consequently her farthest voyage is +regulated by her powers of swimming; and so, when a foreign +vessel arrives in port, and the Marquesan nymphs wish to inspect +it more closely, they can only do so by swimming. Small wonder +if sailors, perceiving those fair-skinned beauties, with their tresses +of long black hair floating around them, suppose their visitors to +be a company of mermaids! From all accounts many of these +girls are really beautiful. In stature they are somewhat diminutive, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span>whereas the men average over six feet. As in Tahiti and +other tropical climates, the constitution ripens at a very early age, +so that mere children may be seen playing with their own babies +instead of dolls. Happily the responsibilities of housekeeping do +not weigh heavily in these isles, where nature is so generous, the +climate so genial, and food so abundant.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I am told that the bread-fruit tree in particular flourishes in the +Marquesas to an extent unknown elsewhere, and grows to an +enormous size—the ripe fruit, either freshly gathered or in its +manufactured form of <i>poi</i>, forming the staple food of the isles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Marquesans have the same love of flowers as their neighbours, +and the girls vie one with another in producing the loveliest +garlands, bracelets, and anklets, sometimes of blossoms and +leaves intertwined, but more often of single flowers, plucked from +their calyx and strung together on a thin fibre of <i>tappa</i>, while +snowy buds take the place of pearl ear-rings. The fragrant white +blossoms of a large tree are those most in favour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the permanent adornment is that of tattooing, which the +Marquesans have brought to greater perfection than any other +South Sea Islanders, except perhaps the Maoris of New Zealand, +their very fair skin affording a tempting parchment for the artist’s +work. The patterns are quaint, and very elaborately worked out in +every conceivable variety of curve. Some of the older men are +thus decorated from head to foot. Even the face is not spared, a +favourite pattern being a strongly marked triangle, the base sweeping +across the lips from ear to ear, whence the other lines ascend, +crossing both eyelids, to meet on the shaven crown. Other men +prefer three broad stripes carried straight across the face,—one +across the eyes, a second across the nose, a third sweeping across the +mouth from ear to ear. A really well-tattooed man is a sort of +walking volume of illustrated natural history, so numerous may be +the strange creatures of earth, sea, and air, delineated on his much-enduring +skin,—birds and butterflies, fishes and crabs, lizards and +snakes, octopi and star-fish, flowers and fruits, all traced in delicate +blue lines on a most silky, olive-coloured surface. Those who go +in for artistic unity of design sometimes have the stem of some +<span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span>graceful tree traced along the spine, while the spreading branches +extend on either shoulder and droop down the sides, and delicately +traced vines twine spirally round arms and legs, birds and insects +appearing among the leaves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have been told that in one of the beautiful valleys lying farther +round the isle than Nukuheva harbour there are Cyclopean remains, +somewhat suggestive of the tombs of the Toui Tongas which we +saw in the Friendly Isles. Among the dense groves which clothe +the base of the mountain lie a series of vast terraces, each about +a hundred yards long by twenty wide, and disposed one above +another on the mountain-side, like gigantic steps. They are built +of oblong blocks of stone, some of which are fifteen feet long by +five or six wide. Though perfectly smooth, they bear no mark of +any tool, and are laid without cement. Huge trees have taken +root in the crevices, and their interlacing boughs now form a dense +canopy above this monument of a forgotten race, concerning which +the Marquesans themselves have no tradition. So impenetrable +is the growth of vines in that green wilderness, that a stranger +might pass the spot—nay, actually cross the terraces by the native +track—without observing them. It is another of the mysteries of +the stone age.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But, on a much smaller scale, there exist in the Marquesas +<i>marais</i> similar to those of Tahiti, which have been the temples and +the tombs of the present inhabitants ever since they knew their +own history,—and even these are sufficiently large to make one +marvel how they could have been erected by a race ignorant of all +mechanical arts, and owning only such rude stone implements. +Beside the <i>marais</i> there are a vast number of very old stone +foundations, similar to those on which the houses are invariably +raised, probably telling of a diminished population. The man who, +in the present day, wishes to build himself a bamboo house, can +therefore appropriate one of these ready-made foundations, and find +the hardest part of his house-building already accomplished.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I cannot learn that there is any trace of active volcanic agency +now existing in the Marquesas, though in some districts sulphur-springs +and mineral waters of various kinds have been found.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span>On the island of Hiva-oa (or Dominica), in the valley of Ta-oa, +about one mile and a half from the beach, and about 300 feet +above the level of the sea, there is a hole two inches in diameter, +from which, when the sea is rough, there rises a strongly sulphurous +steam, accompanied by a loud noise, like the steam-pipe of a +steamer. When the water is smooth there is only a slight noise +and no steam, only a strong smell of sulphur.</p> + +<p class='c008'>My attention has just been called to an exceedingly interesting +letter from the Rev. Titus Coan, which appeared ten years ago in a +Hawaiian paper. He had just returned to Honolulu after visiting +the Marquesas in the little mission-ship Morning Star. He speaks +of the foreign settlement at Taiohae or Nukuheva, as having been +allowed to fall into great disrepair. The jetty, the forts, the arsenal, +the fine road sweeping round the head of the bay—in fact, +all the former works and improvements of the French—are fast +going to decay, and only a few hundred natives, in place of the +thousands of a few years earlier.</p> + +<p class='c008'>He was most courteously received by the French bishop, who +gave him much information about the people, and spoke hopefully +of progress made on the north-west isles of the group, though +the pagan tribes on the windward isles, especially on Dominica +and Magdalena, were still wild and defiant.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mr Coan then visited the convent, where the French Sisters +devote their lives to the training of Marquesan girls. About sixty +girls board in the large airy house, their ages ranging from four to +sixteen—happy, healthy-looking girls, lovingly taught by gentle, +highly educated French ladies, and everything done to make their +lives so cheery, that there may be no hankering for heathen pleasures. +Of these girls, Mr Coan remarks that he has rarely seen more +perfect specimens of physical organisation, brighter faces, or more +active minds, than among the Marquesan children, many of whom +are beautiful, bright, and blithesome.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A corresponding school for boys is established, under a French +secular teacher.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Though the settlement of Taiohae cannot be reckoned as very +“go-ahead,” it certainly sounds as if it might be a singularly attractive +<span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span>resting-place—the houses smothered in luxuriant foliage, both +indigenous and exotic, ornamental and fruit-bearing; banyan, iron-wood, +candle-nut, hybiscus, palms, bread-fruit, orange, citron, lemon, +guava, South Sea chestnut, and ever so many other trees, all growing +in richest beauty; and every rock and pinnacle is carpeted with +mosses and grasses, or festooned with tropical vines. The precipitous +crags all around are so thickly clothed, that they suggest green +velvet draperies striped with lines of molten silver; these are +merry cascades, falling from sources 3000 feet above the valley, +and forming three large streams, which dash among rocky boulders +on their seaward way.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But Mr Coan seems to award the palm of beauty to the valley +of Atuona on Isle Hiva-oa. He says it is a broad, deep valley, +umbrageous and peaceful, and watered by a limpid, babbling stream. +The trees are magnificent, and the vines run riot in their luxuriance. +The great rampart of rocks rising in the background is the highest +point of all the islands, and it is usually wreathed with clouds. +“The broken hills form columns, spurs, pinnacles, coves, and sharp +lateral ribs. Some are round, some angular, some stratified, some +laminated, some truncated, some pointed. They lie in all positions—horizontal, +tilted, vertical—with heaps of scoria revealing their +igneous origin. Rock is piled on rock, hill upon hill, ridge upon +ridge, mountain upon mountain—serried, castellated, turreted, ... +forming masses of confused harmony, defying all the art +of the limner, the pen-and-ink painter, and the descriptive powers +of man.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now I do hope you sympathise in my ever-increasing regret +at having missed my chance of visiting so marvellous a scene of +beauty!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The climate, too, must be delightful. It is soft and balmy, and +the dense foliage affords such constant shade that even the rays of +a tropical sun can only trickle through in bright gleams, while the +cooling sea-breeze seems never to fail. Severe storms are rare, and +hurricanes unknown in the group. In short, the climate is equable, +mild, and wellnigh perfect.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The mission party sailed from one beautiful isle to another, to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span>visit the teachers already established, and to bring them fresh +helpers. They landed on Uahuna, which, like the other isles, is +high, broken, and precipitous. Their arrival was an unexpected +joy to the good Laioha and his wife Ewa, who had been settled +here about a year previously, and already had made a considerable +impression on the people. Laioha blew a loud blast on a horn; +and its echoes, reaching the villages nestled among precipices far up +the valley, soon brought together about fifty wild men and women—some +of whom had already made considerable progress in reading +and writing.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Paumau about a hundred people assembled under the trees, +on the beautiful shore. Many carried spears and war-clubs, whaling-spades +or shark-spears. Some had the head shaven all over; +some in zones and belts, vertical or horizontal; some on one side, +some on the other; some with a tuft of hair on the crown, some +on the forehead, some on the occiput, and some hanging over the +right or the left ear. And thus it was with the tattooing. The +wildest taste and most fantastic and capricious figures were displayed +upon the face, arms, legs, and over the whole body. Children +are not tattooed; females but little, consequently they look +like another and a milder race of beings.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To this strange crowd Mr Coan and his friends endeavoured to +explain some of the simplest doctrines of Christianity. One old +warrior, heavily tattooed, and with closely shaven head, who carried +a large green leaf to shade his eyes, was witty and sceptical, and +brought up many objections to the new creed. But presently he +confessed that it was good, and bade Mr Coan speak also to his +chief. The latter, on hearing of a heaven in which there was +neither fighting nor hunger, remarked that “it would be a good +place for cowards and lazy folk, who are afraid to fight, and too +indolent to climb cocoa-palms or bread-fruit trees.” His repartees +excited laughter in the crowd; but after a while, he, like the old +warrior, declared that it was good, and that he would forsake +heathenism.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Pressing the hand of his new white friend, he said, “<i>Kaoha oe</i>,”—“Love +to thee.” He became serious and earnest, and listened +<span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span>with fixed interest to all the words then spoken; and the meeting +only dispersed when darkness overshadowed the land. A fine old +lady of eighty, one of the early converts (who at her baptism had +added the name of Eve to her own native name of Hipa-Hipa), was +brought forward by her friends, and clasping Mr Coan’s hands, +placed them on her own silvery head, as she welcomed him for his +work’s sake.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The mission-ship next proceeded to Hakahekau, on Isle Uapou, +to carry needful supplies to the Rev. S. Kauwealoha, who has +laboured for several years among its beautiful valleys and wild +cannibal inhabitants. He is described as a man of great energy +and activity, both physical and intellectual, with a large and generous +heart, ever ready to put head, heart, and hand to any work +which will help others, or advance the cause of Christ. His talents +are versatile. He can work in wood, iron, stone, and mortar; can +build a good house; construct, rig, row, and sail a boat; or act as +pilot in all the harbours of the group. He will work bareheaded +and barefooted, and can swim and dive in the surf like a porpoise. +He is very intelligent, speaks and reads English tolerably, and, by +getting hold of an occasional newspaper, he manages to keep up +with the current news of the age. As a missionary he is earnest in +prayer, energetic in preaching, and firm in principle, and foreigners +and natives alike respect him.</p> + +<p class='c008'>While the vessel was landing its stores, its passengers explored +scenery of indescribable loveliness. Passing through a valley rich +with luxuriant vegetation, they reached a point three miles in the +interior, where they commanded a general view of the sublime landscape. +“Within a vast amphitheatre of rugged hills, which send +down their serrated spurs to the shore, buttressed by bold and lofty +precipices, are eight remarkable cones, 200 to 300 feet high, and +50 to 100 feet in diameter, standing as everlasting columns against +the sky, giving to the whole the character of a castellated fortress. +The fantastic forms produced by the force of ancient volcanic fires, +by the abrading action of winds, rain, and chemical agencies on +these isles, are amazing.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>Passing on to Isle Futuiva, the vessel anchored in Hanavave +<span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span>Bay, embowered in magnificent hills, with towering rocks like lofty +minarets guarding its entrance. Mr Coan says the scene was so +grand as to be almost overpowering. He rowed for some miles +along the wonderful coast, which he believes to be almost without +an equal in nature. Rocky cliffs, towering domes, and lofty precipices, +rent, grooved, and fluted, everywhere charmed the eye; and +from these bold heights, sometimes of 2000 feet, silvery cascades +leaped to the sea.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here and there shaded dells opened along the rocky shore. +Small valleys filled with fruit-bearing trees, and murmuring with +living waters, appeared as if by enchantment. But all were desolate, +for fierce bloody war had slain the inhabitants, or driven them from +these Edens of beauty.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For the tribes of Hanavave Bay have waged ceaseless war with +those of Omoa, and the latter seem of late years to have had the +best of it.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Omoa (which is separated from Hanavave by dividing ridges +of inaccessible crags and precipices), the Hawaiian teachers assembled +to meet Mr Coan and his friends. The party consisted +of the Rev. S. Kauwealoha, the Rev. J. Kekela, the Rev. A. +Kaukau, the Rev. T. W. Kaiwi, the Rev. Z. Hapuku, and Mr T. +W. Laioha. The names are characteristic. So is the fact of the +Rev. Z. Hapuku going out to meet the ship, by diving through +raging surf in which no boat could live, that he might pilot the +vessel to another bay, where the boats found a landing-place on a +smooth sand-beach; and the visitors were led to the mission-house +by an avenue, cut like a long tunnel, through the hybiscus and +cotton shrubs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Omoa a large proportion of the native converts had assembled +for church services. About seventy persons were present. In the +morning a new pastor was ordained to the work of the ministry. +In the afternoon seventeen adults and two children were baptised, +and afterwards the Holy Communion was administered to about +forty communicants, nearly all of whom had but a few years, or +even months, previously, been reclaimed from heathenism and wild +cannibal orgies.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_257'>257</span>The schools of Omoa were examined on the following day, and +about seventy scholars were found under tuition, of whom fifty-four +could read, and many had made some progress in arithmetic +and geography.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As if in special contrast to this meeting of the Christians, the +heathen Marquesans were engaged in some curious ceremonies, in +honour of a celebrated prophetess who had died six weeks previously. +Her name was Kauakamikihei. They had built a house +for her, 12 feet wide by 24 long, and 48 feet high. On the top of +this house they placed a target of white native cloth (there called +<i>kapa</i>), and supposed to represent the moon. At this the men fired +their muskets, and shouts of triumph greeted the lucky shots.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Afterwards a great company of tattooed savages rushed to the +shore, with wild shouts, carrying a sacred canoe, which was covered +with a broad flat frame of bamboo, on which was erected a small +round house, covered with mats. In this were placed a live pig, a +dog, and a cock, also some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a bowl of +<i>poi</i>. The canoe was much ornamented, and rigged with mast, and +sail of <i>kapa</i>. With much shouting it was launched, and pushed +by bold swimmers through the roaring surf into the open sea, +where they left it and returned to shore. The canoe drifted slowly +out of the bay, but struck on the northern headland, where it was +in danger of being dashed to pieces on the rocks, when a native +ran round the harbour and once more shoved off the frail bark, +which sailed out to sea with its living freight. This ceremony was +a final offering to the god whom the dead prophetess or priestess +had served, and closed the season of <i>koina</i> or <i>tabu</i>, which had +lasted six weeks, during which all manner of servile work or vain +recreation were alike forbidden.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From these frequent allusions to heavy surf breaking on the +shore, you may infer that the coral barrier-reef is wanting on most +of the Marquesan isles. The fact is, that in many cases, these +volcanic crags rise so precipitously, from so great a depth, that the +diligent corals have failed to gain a resting-place, and so the sea +dashes on the shore with unabated violence.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Strangely in contrast with these picturesque volcanic isles, is +<span class='pageno' id='Page_258'>258</span>that other group over which, also, I grieve as over a lost inheritance.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Paumotus (<i>i.e.</i>, cloud of islands)—or, as we used to call it, +the Low or Dangerous Archipelago—is a cluster of eighty very +flat coral-isles, most of which are of the nature of atolls, some +shaped like a horse-shoe, others so nearly circular that only small +canoes can enter the calm lagoon which occupies the centre; and +some are perfect rings, having no visible connection whatever +with the ocean, which, nevertheless, finds a subterranean passage +through which the waters rush in a strong current as the tides rise +and fall. Such lagoons as these are generally encircled by a belt +of swamp, which can only be crossed by laying down pathways of +long branches; these act in the same way as huge Canadian snowshoes, +and enable the light-footed natives to pass in safety across +the treacherous green surface to the margin of the lake, where they +keep small canoes in which to paddle about in search of eels and +shrimps, and various kinds of fish. The water-supply is generally +deficient, and only by sinking wells in the coral-sand can even +brackish water be obtained. There are, however, exceptions to +this rule, and some isles have good springs. But at best, the +people depend greatly on their cocoa-nuts for drink even more +than for food, and happily this supply rarely fails them. The +coral-bed supplies neither soil nor water sufficient to raise any +regular crops. Here and there a sort of caladium with edible +root grows wild, but yams or <i>taro</i> are only known as imported +luxuries. Forest-trees and scrub, however, contrive to find a +living, and form a dense growth over most of the isles; and here +and there clumps of carefully cultivated bananas, orange-trees, or +bread-fruit, tell of a richer and deeper soil, probably accumulated +with patient toil. Fig-trees and limes also flourish.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some of the lagoon-reefs have a diameter of about forty miles, +and only rise above the water in small isles, forming a dotted +circle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I believe it is generally supposed that such coral-rings as these +have in many cases been the encircling reef formed round some +volcanic isle, which has gradually subsided, whereas the reef-building +<span class='pageno' id='Page_259'>259</span>corals have continually risen higher and higher, so as to +remain in the shallow water, in which alone they can live, and +thus in course of ages the condition of things becomes reversed. +The once fertile isle disappears beneath the ocean, whereas the +coral-reef, rising to just below high-water mark, gradually accumulates +shells and seaweeds; the sea deposits drift of all sorts, and, +little by little, a soil is formed which becomes fertile, and presently +cocoa-nuts drift from far-away isles, and weeds of many sorts are +carried by the birds, or float on the currents, and so the isle +becomes fertile—a ring instinct with life, rising perpendicularly +from the deep sea on the outer side, and very often on the inner +side also.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Where this is the case, and the inner lagoon appears as fathomless +as the outer sea, it is supposed that the atoll has been formed +on the rim of a sunken crater, colonies of living corals having +settled on its surface so soon as it subsided below high-water +mark. This theory seems the more probable, from the manner in +which you find these circular coral-isles densely clustered in certain +localities, and none in other groups, just as in some regions we find +innumerable extinct craters covering the whole surface of the land, +and can readily imagine that should such a district subside, each +cup-like crater might soon be covered with corals.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As in some craters the lava-flow has rent a gap near the summit +whereby to escape, and in other craters it has found for itself a +subterranean passage, leaving the upper crust unbroken, so in these +atolls, some are perfect rings, and the tides ebb and flow within +the lagoons by submarine channels, while others have an open +passage, deep enough for a ship to sail into the inner lake.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The principal island in the Paumotu group is that of Manga +Reva, a cluster of five isles, all within one encircling reef. The +main isle is a basaltic mass, rising 2000 feet above the sea-level. +It is the most fertile of the group, and is the headquarters of the +French bishop and his clergy. The Paumotus have a population +of about 5000 persons, the majority of whom are Roman Catholics. +They are a fine independent race, and in old days were accounted +brave warriors.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_260'>260</span>Now a large number make their living by diving for the great +pearl shell-oysters, which are found in many of the lagoons at a +depth of from ten to twenty fathoms, attached to the coral-rock by +a strong byssus—<i>i.e.</i>, a bunch of silky golden-brown filaments, +which the diver cuts with his knife, and so secures his prize. This +silken cable is attached to the muscle of the fish itself, and passes +through an aperture at the hinge. An expert diver can remain +under water for about three minutes. In some of the isles women +are accounted the most skilful divers, especially in deep water, +where the largest shells are found, some actually measuring +eighteen inches across—such beautiful great shields of gleaming +mother-of-pearl.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The pearls themselves are not very abundant, and are generally +found in the less perfect shells, the inmates of which are either +sickly or have inadvertently admitted grains of coral-sand, which +they have been unable to eject. But sometimes the large healthy +shells contain one beautiful perfect pearl, not lodged in the muscle +in the ordinary way, but lying loose in the shell; and though it is +certain that many are lost through carelessness, a considerable +number have taken high rank among the noted pearls of the civilised +world. I believe that those composing the Empress Eugénie’s +splendid necklace were collected in the Paumotus, and that Queen +Victoria’s pearl, which is valued at £6000, was also found there. +In heathen days all the best pearls were treasured in the idol +temples, and some of the early adventurers are known to have +made a very lucrative business by exchanging cheap muskets for +bags of pearls. The same disease or discomfort which produces +these lovely gems often takes a form less valued, but still very +beautiful—large distorted pearly lumps, often the size of two +joints of the little finger, and assuming all manner of quaint forms, +sometimes resembling a human hand. I have seen some which +had been set as pins and brooches, which I thought very attractive.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These, however, like the pearls themselves, are the accidental +prizes of the divers. The regular article of traffic is the shell +itself, which the traders buy from the natives at an average of £15 +per ton, and sell in London at an average of over £100. They +<span class='pageno' id='Page_261'>261</span>calculate that by hiring divers and working the beds themselves, +the shell can be raised at less than £6 per ton. In former years +the annual harvest of Paumotu pearl-shell was immensely in excess +of the present supply, which is said not to average above 200 tons—the +natural result of allowing the beds no time to recruit. +Doubtless there are vast beds untouched, at lower levels, where +the divers do not care to venture; and it is supposed that the +outer face of the barrier-reef is probably one vast oyster-bed, but +the bravest divers dare not venture to attempt work beneath the +awful breakers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Certain it is, that the colonies in the lagoons are annually replenished +by myriads of infant pearl-oysters, which have been +spawned in the deep sea, and which, in the months of December +and March, may be seen floating in with the rising tide; tiny +glittering shells, a quarter or a half inch in diameter, like fairy +coins. Once in those calm waters, the young oysters apparently +have no wish again to seek the stormy outer seas, for they are +never seen floating out with the retiring tide. It takes seven +years for an oyster to attain maturity, so only those which settle +in deep water have a chance of reaching a ripe age.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Strange to say, these creatures, which appear to be so immovably +attached to their coral-rock, are proved to be migratory. Not only +do the closely packed young oysters detach their silken cables and +move off in search of more roomy quarters, but even the heavy +grown-up shells sometimes travel from one shelf in the coral to +another, probably in search of better feeding-grounds. They are +singularly capricious in the selection of their homes; in one lagoon +they are abundant, and perhaps in the very next not an oyster is +to be found: and no attempt to raise artificial beds, even by transporting +masses of rock covered with young shells, has ever succeeded, +although the surroundings are apparently identical in every +respect. Of course they will not settle anywhere near sand, which, +by any disturbing cause, might enter their shells, and cause them +as much inconvenience as do the innumerable tiny red crabs,—uninvited +guests, which take up their quarters in the oyster-shells, +to the great aggravation of the helpless owners.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_262'>262</span>The lagoons in which these fisheries are carried on are indescribably +lovely: marine gardens, in which every detail of beauty +is enhanced by being seen through the clearest crystal waters, +which lend a glamour as of a magic glass to everything seen +through them, whether sea-weed or shell, zoophyte or coral, gliding +snake or rainbow-coloured fish. Here and there are patches of +pure white coral-sand, which serve to reveal the exquisite colour of +the aqua-marine water; while the golden seaweeds appear purple, +and the corals seem to vary in hue, according to the depth at +which they lie beneath the surface. It is all illusion, for the +flowers of the sea are always disappointing when gathered. But +there on the coral-ledges lie the great oysters and many other shells, +including the huge clam, which is accounted excellent food. The +pearl-oyster is only eaten in times of scarcity, as it is very coarse +and unpalatable, though not unwholesome.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Diving for clams generally falls to the share of the women; and +many a one has met her doom from getting nipped by the ponderous +dentated shell, and so held prisoner in the depths, never to +rise again. I heard several horrible stories on this subject in Fiji, +and here new ones are added to the list. Quite recently a poor +fellow fishing on one of the Paumotu atolls dived to the bottom of +the lagoon, feeling for pearl-oysters, when he unluckily slipped the +fingers of his left hand into a gaping clam-shell, which instantly +closed and held him as if in a vice. The shell lay in a hole in the +coral, so that it was impossible to reach the byssus by which it +was moored in that safe harbour; the wretched man, in agony of +mind and of body, severed his own fingers with his knife, and +rose to the surface, having indeed escaped drowning, but being +maimed for life. There have been other cases when a diver, thus +imprisoned, has with greater deliberation contrived to insert his +knife into the shell, and so force it open sufficiently to release his +other hand.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In gathering clams, the aim of the diver is to stab the gaping +mollusc with a sharp-pointed stake, and then with his knife cut +the silky filaments by which it adheres to the rock, after which he +slips both hands below the huge shell, and endeavours to raise it;—no +<span class='pageno' id='Page_263'>263</span>easy matter, considering what ponderous monsters many of +the clams are—a single shell making an admirable bath for a child, +pure as white marble, and highly polished by nature. In many +Roman Catholic churches these large shells are used for holy water. +The smaller clams, such as are generally used for food, are often +picked up on the reef in basket-loads; and many a careless child +has playfully thrust its little fingers into a gaping shell, an invasion +promptly resented by the owner. Happily the scream of agony +generally brings some friends to the rescue: and strong as is the +armour of the poor besieged clam, it offers one weak point to the +enemy—namely, the cavity through which the byssus passes; a +skilful stab through this aperture causes the inmate to relax its +hold, and so the child is released—but many a finger is lost in this +manner. The multitude of these shell-fish annually consumed on +all the isles is something incredible, and the supply is apparently +inexhaustible. It is not generally known that these shells also +occasionally yield very valuable and lustrous pearls of peculiar +brilliancy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the treasury of the sea, which lies safe beyond the reach of +covetous human beings, is that clean coral-sand which glimmers +far below the coral caves where the oysters congregate, and to +which, for untold ages, have dropped the pearls which fell from the +gaping shell, when the seven-year-old oyster, having lived his +appointed time, melted away in his native brine, and let go the +treasures he could no longer clasp. What a dream of delight, even +in fancy, to gather up those</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c018'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Pale glistening pearls and rainbow-coloured shells,</div> + <div class='line'>Bright things that gleam unrecked of and in vain”!</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I suppose the water-babies of these seas look upon pearls as we +used to look on John o’ Groats—probably with less reverence, as +being so much more common; and perhaps they are right, for the +one was only a disease, and the other a wondrously contrived little +home.</p> + +<p class='c008'>One valuable creature which loves the white coral-sand as +cordially as the pearl-oyster dreads it, is the black <i>bêche-de-mer</i>,<a id='r57'></a><a href='#f57' class='c017'><sup>[57]</sup></a> a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_264'>264</span>very important item in the harvest of these seas, and one which +affords a living to a multitude of white men and brown. There +are four different sorts, of which the black is the largest. It +resembles a gigantic leech, and grows to a length of about thirty +inches. It is a gregarious animal, and is found in companies of +brother-slugs wherever the water is clearest and most perfect peace +prevails. It is supposed to be blind, and its movements are so +slow as to be imperceptible. It has a red cousin, which seems to +enjoy tumult and noise as much as the black kind loves calm. Its +favourite home is on the outer edge of the coral-reef, where the +mighty breakers are for ever raging.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The <i>bêche-de-mer</i> fishers have on the whole rather a pleasant sort +of gipsy life. Having chartered a small vessel, they engage a set +of natives, both men and women, to work with them for so many +moons; and as it is just the sort of occupation which comes natural +to these men, they generally have a cheery time of it. They anchor +at some favourable spot, probably a desert island, and build +a cluster of palm-leaf huts for themselves, another in which to +smoke, and so cure the fish and slugs, and to act as storehouse. +However rude may be their own shelter, the fish-houses must be +made water-tight, lest the heavy rains should beat through, and +destroy the precious store.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The men carry with them a store of yams and cocoa-nuts, and +trust to their luck for a daily fish supply, which rarely, if ever, +fails, and has the charm of considerable variety, including most of +the finny tribes, turtles and their eggs, clams, cockles, and other +shell-fish—occasionally sea-birds’ eggs are added to the feast. +Whatever is caught is supposed to go to be handed over to the +native overseer for equal division, that none may hunger. So +when the day’s work is done, a delicious bathe is followed by a +cheery supper, and then the men lie round bright wood-fires, indulging +in never-ending talk or songs, or else dancing quaint +savage <i>mékés</i> in the moonlight.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Every morning they start at early dawn armed with long many-pronged +forks, to collect the treasures brought in by the tide. If +the sea is calm they go to the outer edge of the reef, in search of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_265'>265</span>the red <i>bêche-de-mer</i>, which love the sea-foam; but when the surf +comes thundering in with mad violence, then the fishers have a +quiet day with the black slugs; for these they must dive perhaps +to a depth of twelve fathoms.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As I once before mentioned to you, these creatures eject a fluid +which blisters the skin most painfully; so instead of carrying +them in a basket, it is customary for the fisher to have a miniature +canoe which he can drag over the reef by means of a rope, or float +on the calm lagoon, should he have occasion to dive; into this +canoe he throws all treasure-trove, and when it is full, empties it +into one of the larger boats. Noonday is the most favourable +hour for the diver, as the sun’s vertical rays then most clearly +illumine the submarine depths where he seeks his game.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When a fair supply has been secured, the fishers return to the +settlement. Sometimes they busy themselves on the way by +cleaning the slugs, which is done by cutting them open with a +sharp knife, so as to let the dangerous blistering fluid and intestines +fall into the sea. But the more cautious men defer this process +till they reach the shore, when they pop the live animals into +a boiling caldron, and therein stir them diligently for some minutes, +after which they can clean them with greater safety to themselves. +They are then transferred to another caldron and stewed for half +an hour, after which they are taken to the drying-house, whence +they reappear like bits of dry leather, and require to be soaked for +several days previous to use.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is necessary to cook the Holothuria as quickly as possible, +because so soon as they are dead they become a gelatinous mass +like treacle, with a very bad smell, and all adhere together, so that +no use can be made of them. So if caldrons are lacking, native +ovens are at once prepared: a hole is dug in the earth, and a fire +kindled, whereby stones are thoroughly heated, and on these the +slugs are laid, and covered with green leaves and old matting, and +earth over all. Thus they are steamed for an hour, till they are dried +up and shrivelled, after which each is stretched open with little +bits of stick, and laid on the drying stages in the smoking-house, +over a fire of green wood, which produces a dense smoke. This +<span class='pageno' id='Page_266'>266</span>must be kept up for three days, after which this leathery and uninviting +delicacy is packed in palm-leaf baskets ready for the +China market. But it must from time to time be spread in the +scorching sun to dry it more thoroughly, as any lingering moisture +will inevitably reveal itself on the long journey, and the produce +of many a month’s hard labour has thus been rendered worthless.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I do not think that <i>bêche-de-mer</i> soup ever finds much favour +with Europeans, but I have eaten it myself with much satisfaction, +which is far more than I can say for turtle in any form, as prepared +in the Pacific. Turtle-steaks sound well, but I cannot say +they are nice. I think they are generally cut from turtle which +have been roasted whole in native ovens. I believe the scientific +cook invariably lays the turtle on its back, that the precious green +fat and oil may not be lost; and the prudent housekeeper preserves +the surplus of a feast-day, by cutting up slices of turtle-steak, +which she stores in cocoa-nut shells, pouring in liquid fat, +and tying a heated banana-leaf over the shell, in lieu of hermetically +sealing these potted meats. As a good large turtle weighs +fully 400 lb. (and some are occasionally captured weighing from +600 to 700 lb.), you can understand that a chief may very well +allow himself to store up a portion for the morrow, without depriving +his followers of their fair share.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But if turtle-meat is unpleasant, still more so, to my uneducated +taste, are turtle-eggs, several hundred of which are sometimes +found inside a large mother turtle. But they are generally discovered +carefully buried in the sand well above high-water mark. +They are quite round and leathery, resembling small white tennis-balls. +In the breeding season, the female turtle leaves her mate +beyond the barrier-reef, and she comes ashore, alone, at high tide, +generally selecting the full moon. Having chosen a suitable spot +for her nest, she scratches a large hole in the sand, in the middle +of which she digs a funnel, two or three feet in depth, and therein +proceeds to lay about a hundred eggs, after which she carefully +covers them over with sand, and smooths away all trace of her +visit. Then she returns to the reef and there waits for the next +high tide, when she rejoins her mate. For some reason best +<span class='pageno' id='Page_267'>267</span>known to herself, she generally returns ashore either on the ninth +or eighteenth night—a fact well known to the natives, who scan +the beach eagerly for the broad track left on the smooth white +sand by this midnight visitor.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When poor Mrs Turtle becomes aware of the presence of her +natural foe, man, she generally tries to hide, and will lie motionless +for hours; but should this hope prove vain, she makes for the +sea at railway speed, her flippers acting as paddles, by which she +jerks herself along. Should her foe outstrip her in the race, he +contrives to turn her over, when she lies on her back more helpless +than even a fat sheep in the like predicament.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I daresay that to all of you, in England, the accounts of these +South Sea groups sound so much alike, that you can scarcely +sympathise with my repining over the omission of a few. But +each has its own distinctive peculiarities, which you only realise +by living in it for a while, and making friends with its inhabitants.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Therefore I fear that these “lines left out” will remain to me a +lifelong regret. They have all the pain that attaches to “truth +seen too late,” which is the crown of woe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I only hope that you will profit by my sad experience, and that +should you ever have a chance of seeing the Marquesas and the +Paumotus, you will not let it slip. But such luck as visiting a +French colony in a French man-of-war does not often present +itself!</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVIII.<br> <span class='c009'>TAHITIAN HOSPITALITY—A SOUTH SEA STORE—A BATHING PICNIC—THE MARQUESANS—TATTOOING—ANCIENT GAMES OF TAHITI—MALAY DESCENT—THEORY OF A NORTHERLY MIGRATION.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>La Maison Brandère, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Wednesday, 21st</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Already ten days have slipped away since we watched the +Maramma sail for Honolulu, and each morning I awake with a +feeling of pleasure that I am still in this delightful isle. Would +<span class='pageno' id='Page_268'>268</span>that you could look on the lovely scene on which my eyes rest +with the first glimmer of dawn, and which now lies outspread +before me, as I sit in this cool verandah opening off my large +bedroom on the upper storey! It is a verandah all closed in with +<i>jalousies</i>, screening its occupants from the outside world; while +they, themselves unseen, look down on the brightest, most animated +scene you can imagine.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Long before sunrise the pretty native boats, with double sails, +arrive from all parts of the isle, bringing their cargo of fish and +fruit for the market, which is held in a large building in the town. +But as the boats are unloaded, their wares are outspread on the +grass just below these windows, and the most active housewives +and purveyors for the ships come here to secure the first choice of +luscious fruits and of fishes, as beautiful to the eye as they are +tempting to the palate. These are of every shade of blue and +green, scarlet and crimson, and pale yellow with lilac stripes. The +large bright-green fish are generally eaten raw; and occasionally the +purchasers, whose appetites are sharpened by the fresh morning air, +cannot resist an early breakfast <i>al fresco</i>. The air is balmy and +delicious, like a heavenly midsummer morning in Europe; and all +the girls have light woollen shawls. (Real Scotch tartans are in +high favour, and are worn in true Highland fashion, over one +shoulder and round the body.)</p> + +<p class='c008'>The fruit-supply is brought in large baskets. Just now there +are quantities of mangoes, oranges, and Abercarder pears (<i>des +avocats</i> they are called here, where French permeates all things, +as it did in England when the Norman conquerors changed Saxon +oxen, sheep, and hens, to beef, mutton, and fowls). But these +minor fruits are trifling luxuries. The mainstay of life is the +<i>faees</i> or wild banana, which here takes the place of the yams and +<i>taro</i> of the groups further west.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I think I have already described this peculiar plant, which bears +its enormous bunch of fruit growing upright from the centre of its +crown of large leaves, instead of drooping below them, as is the +manner of all other bananas and plantains. These clusters vary +from two to four feet in length; and I constantly see a bunch so +<span class='pageno' id='Page_269'>269</span>long and so heavy, that it is carried to market slung from a pole, +resting on the shoulders of two men, just as in the old pictures of +the Israelitish spies bearing the grapes of Eshcol, which were the +delight of our childhood. It must be toilsome work to carry these +weighty spoils of the mountains from the remote ravines where +they chiefly flourish.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All these heaps of golden fruit form a brilliant foreground to the +beautiful harbour beyond, which at this early hour reflects only the +pale, glowing daffodil hues of a cloudless sky, against which the +exquisite outline of Moorea stands out in clear relief. Suddenly +its delicate pearly grey is flushed with rose colour, as the first ray +of the rising sun touches those lofty summits, and veinings of +tender blue mark the course of deep glens and corries, or the +shadows cast by prominent crags and pinnacles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nearer—so near, indeed, that we can distinguish friendly faces +on the decks—lie the French men-of-war; and as the light touches +them, their dead white changes to cream colour, and they and their +unfurled sails, and the clothes hung out to dry, are all reflected in +the calm water. So, too, are the various trading ships, and the +great hulk of a large iron vessel, which caught fire fifteen months +ago when she was near the Marquesas. Her crew took to their +boats, and two of these arrived here safely. A good while after, +the deserted ship, still burning, drifted down towards here. The +Seignelay went out and towed in the wreck. She had been laden +with coal, and this had run into a sort of semi-fluid, tarry condition, +and to this hour it is still smouldering; and after a shower of +rain, steam and smoke still rise from the poor old hulk, which is so +red from rust that you would think she had been painted vermilion. +It is a vexed question whether she can ever be turned to account, or +whether she should not be towed outside the reef, and there sunk.<a id='r58'></a><a href='#f58' class='c017'><sup>[58]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Just beyond the shipping, inside the harbour, is a small island +fortified by the French. The incongruity of ramparts and guns is +hidden by foliage of hybiscus and palms; and it forms one item in +the beauty of the scene.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_270'>270</span>This is the view from the front of the Red House. The back +windows look over green mango-trees, and past the spire of the +Roman Catholic church, to the great purply mountains of the +interior. So you see that, although this big square three-storeyed +house of very red brick, encased in closed verandahs, is not in +itself an ornamental building, its surroundings are very lovely. +And of the kindliness that reigns within it, words fail me to tell. +It is an atmosphere of genial cordiality, in which each guest is at +once made to feel as welcome, and as thoroughly at home, as any +member of the large family. It is a kindness as unconscious, but +as real and as delightful, as the balmy air we breathe, and is as +purely Tahitian. What would these warm-hearted open-handed +people think of the measured cold reception of strangers in our +grey British isles?</p> + +<p class='c008'>To begin with, I discovered, on arriving here, that Mrs Brander +had actually given me her own charming suite of rooms, to secure +my having the fullest enjoyment of the lovely view and of the +cool verandahs; so that I virtually am in solitary possession of this +whole flat, with its large handsome drawing-room and cosy boudoir. +I compare myself to one of the hermit-crabs which curl themselves +into desirable shells, to the exclusion of the rightful owners! But +my most hospitable hostess will not allow that she suffers any inconvenience; +though she and her children have moved downstairs to +share one huge room with any number of friends and relations, who +spread their soft mattresses and pillows, and very gay quilts, and +make themselves cosy for the night, just as the fancy takes them. +The fine old mother has a house near, but very often she and the +pretty sisters prefer to sleep here: so do sundry cousins and friends. +There are also a number of Tahitian women of good birth who find +a home, almost by right, in the house of every high chief, and who +in return do him, or her, such light service as may be required. But +of actual servants, as we understand the word, there are none.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I find an element of great comfort in the presence of an English +woman who acts as housekeeper—a most unexpected discovery in +Tahiti! She brings my early breakfast of tea and fruit, and otherwise +takes great care of me.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_271'>271</span>We have a regular European breakfast and dinner, at which, +however, only my hostess and her big brothers, with the Belgian +manager and a few French officers, generally appear. The others +prefer eating <i><span lang="fr">à l’indigène</span></i>, sitting on their mats in another room, +or beneath the shady trees; in fact, the native element is pretty +strong, which gives this house half its interest. All the connections +of the royal family, and a number of pretty <i>demi-blanche</i> +girls, dressed in flowing sacques, are continually coming and going; +and once a week Mrs Brander has a reception for all the young +folk, and for as many French officers as like to come; and they all +dance and make merry,—rather more so, I think, than at the +admiral’s Wednesday receptions at Government House, which are, +nevertheless, very enjoyable.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I had heard the praises of my hostess sung in no measured +terms by all the members of the mission, both French and English, +as well as by our consul and his family; but only since I have +lived under her roof have I realised what a very exceptional +woman she is. To the affectionate kindliness of a genuine +Tahitian, she adds the Anglo-Jewish strength of character and +business capacity inherited from her father; and the combination +is one which would be truly remarkable in any woman, but is +doubly so in one of the gentle daughters of the South Seas. The +born chiefess is revealed in her large-hearted generosity to every +creature that comes within her reach; though her extreme unselfishness +makes her shrink from any expenditure that seems to +tend only to her own comfort. She appears to be always thinking +what she can do for other people—rich or poor, in all parts of the +group. She has estates scattered all over these isles, and conducts +all their business herself, as well as attending to everything connected +with the great mercantile house created by her late husband. +Though she has many assistants, she is emphatically its +head, and not the smallest detail can be carried out without her +sanction. Every business transaction, whether with the French +Government, or foreign vessels requiring supplies, or her own +trading ships, passes through her hands. Everything is done by +her special order, and every business paper has to receive her +<span class='pageno' id='Page_272'>272</span>signature. But she never seems to forget anything or any one; +and, moreover, has time to prove herself a most devoted mother to +her nine children—of whom one is married in Valparaiso, another +here, some of the sons are at school in Scotland, and the baby +daughters are the pets and darlings of this house.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander owns a fleet of about twenty smart trading +schooners, which run backwards and forwards between Tahiti +and such points as San Francisco, Valparaiso, and New Zealand, +carrying the cargoes of all sorts collected by other vessels (of the +same fleet) in the surrounding isles and the neighbouring groups.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These cargoes consist chiefly of <i>coppra</i>—that is, dried cocoa-nut +kernel, broken into little bits for convenience of stowage on +the far journey to England or other lands, where it is subjected to +such heavy pressure as extracts the oil, leaving a residue of oil-cake +for the fattening of British beeves. For the <i>gourmet</i> of +China, quantities of edible fungus and dried <i>bêche-de-mer</i> are sent +to San Francisco, whence they are passed on to Hong-Kong. +Tons of large pearl-shells, measuring about eight inches across, +with beautifully iridescent lining, go to make buttons and such +articles, in all parts of the world; true pearls of considerable value +are occasionally found in these, and a large number of average size. +Of the fruits of the isles, oranges form the largest export, but +vanilla, coffee, and various other products swell the list. At one +time cotton was a good article of export, but it appears to have +fallen into disfavour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The vessels return from their several destinations laden with +every conceivable variety of goods. There is nothing that luxury +can desire which does not find its way to these remote isles, from +the newest scent to the finest dress materials—not even excepting +silks and velvets, though for whose benefit these are imported, +passes my comprehension.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Truly wonderful is that compendium of all things needful, +known as “a store,” and that of <i>La Maison Brandère</i> is the +largest in Papeete. Like “the merchant” of a Scotch village, +magnified a thousandfold, the owner of a South Sea store must +be ready to supply all the most incongruous demands which his +<span class='pageno' id='Page_273'>273</span>customers can possibly invent, from white satin shoes to ship +anchors. For he has not only to provide for the island population, +but must be ready to supply any ships that happen to come into +harbour with whatever they require. Fresh meats and preserved +meats, New Zealand beef, Australian mutton, condensed milk and +tinned butter, Californian “canned” vegetables and fruits, candles +and lamps, oils of various kinds, firearms and gunpowder, hair-oil +and brushes, wines and spirits, letter-paper and ledgers, books and +framed pictures, cutlery of all sorts—from a penknife to a cutlass, +or from a hair-pin to a harpoon—wine-glasses and tumblers, necklaces +and brooches, crockery and physic: these, and a thousand +other items, are all on hand, and appear at a moment’s notice.</p> + +<p class='c008'>And as the store is the centre of all business, it is a general +rendezvous; in fact, a sort of club, where pleasant cooling drinks +are not unknown, and where much amusing gossip may be heard, +for <i>that</i> is an article not unknown even in Tahiti!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Provisioning large vessels for long voyages is no easy matter +here, where all animals have to be imported, as these beautiful +hills and valleys afford very poor pasture-land, being all overrun +with guava scrub. So shiploads of cattle are despatched from the +Sandwich Isles, at very irregular intervals, by sailing ships, which +sometimes are detained so long by contrary winds and calms, that +the poor beasts are almost starved. The sheep are equally lean; +and in fact, pork and fowls are about the only satisfactory meat-supply.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Thursday, 22d Nov.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>It is hard to think of you all, enduring the miseries of chill +November, while we are revelling day after day, and night after +night, in an atmosphere of balmy delight and clear blue heavens. +Last night we all went to the admiral’s big reception, <i>au Gouvernement</i>, +and a very gay scene it was, so many pretty women in very +fresh, simple muslin sacques—only a few French ladies adhering +to Parisian fashions. The ball-room has an excellent inlaid floor; +and as the music is most enlivening, and the French naval officers +enjoy dancing quite as much as any of the girls, they kept it up +<span class='pageno' id='Page_274'>274</span>with great spirit. Of course the gardens are a very great attraction, +and to the non-dancers are the favourite lounge. Good +music, pleasant company, warm delicious nights, redolent of fragrant +flowers—what more could you desire? Sometimes, when the +band stops playing, we go for a moonlight row in the harbour, as +far as the entrance through the barrier-reef, just for the pleasure of +watching the breakers, and hearing their deafening roar.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning, soon after sunrise, M. Viennot called for me in +his carriage, and drove me to Papawa, where he has built himself a +tiny house, near a lovely bathing-place. We found all the mission +families already assembled, with a few other friends, including M. +Puèch, commanding Le Limier, a French man-of-war. He at once +set his sailors to catch fish for our picnic; and after a preliminary +luncheon, we all scattered, to bathe, or stroll, as the case might be.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I went off with a party of half-a-dozen handsome girls, of +English and Tahitian birth, descendants of the early missionaries, +whose children settled in the group, and married half-whites. +They led the way to a delicious stream, narrow, and deep, and +clear, and very still, edged with tall bulrushes. They supplied +me with a bathing-dress like their own—namely, a <i>pareo</i> of crimson, +or scarlet and white calico, which they wore very gracefully +draped from the neck. They wove great wreaths of green fern to +protect their heads from the sun, and, of course, did not neglect +me in the distribution. I thought they formed a most picturesque +group.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The stream was so inviting that we determined to follow it up +for some distance. But the water, which at first only came to +my shoulders, grew deeper and deeper, till I could not feel the +ground, and I had to confess my inability to swim. So then these +charming naiads clustered round me, and floated me smoothly +along, as they swam a good half-mile to the upper stream. It +was quite charming. Then they floated me back again, and by +the time we rejoined the rest of the party, the sailors had caught +a great supply of excellent little fish of many sorts, and we had a +most merry feast, after which Commandant Puèch brought me +home in his boat; and now I confess to being so tired, that I am +<span class='pageno' id='Page_275'>275</span>going to bed, notwithstanding the attraction of a pleasant moonlight +expedition in the admiral’s big barge.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Friday, 23d.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The Seignelay returned to-day from the Marquesas and the +Paumotu group. She has had a most delightful fortnight’s cruise, +and my kind friends on board add to my poignant repentance for +having refused to accompany them, by their regrets that I should +have missed so excellent an opportunity. They had perfect +weather. The voyage going and coming occupied just a week, +during which they passed through the Paumotus. The other +week was spent at different islands in the Marquesas, and they +say that much of the scenery is like the island of Moorea, but +greatly glorified. Now, as Moorea is the most unique and beautiful +isle I have ever seen, you can imagine how grievous it is to +think I should so stupidly have missed seeing one still more +strange and lovely.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They also declare that the people are by far the finest race, and +the most uncivilised savages, they have ever seen anywhere. They +declare that many are still cannibal, and that all are tattooed all +over the face and body, while many of the men are clothed only +in a kilt of human hair. I think it possible that had they inspected +this garment more closely, they might have discovered it to be +made of the Rhizomorpha fibre—a glossy black parasitic weed, +which is found in the forests, clinging to old trees by means of +tiny suckers. It resembles coarse horse-hair, and in Fiji it is +greatly valued as a kilt by warriors and dancers. So perhaps in +this respect the Marquesans may not differ from our familiar +Fijians. But there is no doubt that they are still in that very +early stage of civilisation, which is most interesting to the traveller, +before all distinctive angles have been rounded off—a process +which, when once commenced, progresses with startling rapidity, +to the total extinction of all individuality.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here in Tahiti, for instance, scarcely a trace remains of the +aboriginal manners and customs, and it is impossible for the most +vivid imagination to conjure up any sort of suggestion of Captain +<span class='pageno' id='Page_276'>276</span>Cook’s Otaheiti. Not a trace of tattooing is now to be seen, +though in olden days it was practised by almost all Tahitians, +both men and women, simply as a personal adornment. Happily +they seldom disfigured their faces, but the women tattooed their +feet, up to the ankles, and marked bracelets on their arms and +wrists. The men sometimes covered the whole body with intricate +patterns, often gracefully drawn, as when a cocoa-nut palm was +designed on the leg, or a bread-fruit tree, with twining vines, on +the chest. Fishes and birds, flowers and fruits, spears and clubs, +were favourite subjects; and sometimes a battle-piece, or the offering +of sacrifice at the <i>marae</i>, were thus indelibly marked. In the +character of subjects selected, the tattooing of Tahiti seems to have +been nearer akin to that of Japan than of any other nation, though +in this respect, as in all others, the Japanese lend to their work an +artistic beauty of their own.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In all other groups, the patterns selected were generally stars +or lines. By far the most elaborate designs are those of New +Zealand and the Marquesas; but the former invariably adhere to +curved lines or concentric circles, covering the whole face, while +the latter make broad straight lines all over the body, with occasional +designs of animals.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The only Marquesan whom I have seen here is most elaborately +tattooed from head to foot, and I am told he is a fair type of his +countrymen. All the Maoris whom we saw in New Zealand were +so fully clothed, that I can only testify to the very finely marked +intricate circles on the faces of the men, and the hideous blue lips +of the women. In Samoa the men are so marked as apparently to +be clothed in dark-blue-silk knee-breeches. In Tonga only the +men were tattooed, the women never were. In Fiji, on the other +hand, men were never tattooed; but, for women, a certain small +amount was a compulsory religious act.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In all these countries so many idolatrous ceremonies were connected +with the process, that it was invariably prohibited so soon +as the people professed Christianity. In Japan, where it has +hitherto been so practised as to be a really beautiful art, it has +been declared illegal by the same police regulations which, greatly +<span class='pageno' id='Page_277'>277</span>to the discomfort of the people, insist on every man being dressed +from head to foot. But throughout the Christianised isles, including +Tahiti, the prohibition was on the score of idolatry, and a law +was passed, affixing a graduated scale of penalty for repeated +offences; a man was condemned to make so many fathoms of road +or of stone-work, and a woman to make so many mats, or so many +fathoms of native cloth, for the use of the king and of the governor. +Nevertheless, the desire to embellish nature was so great, +that many were content to work out the penalty rather than forego +the adornment.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There never was a better illustration of the old proverb, “Il faut +souffrir pour être belle;” for it was necessarily a painful process, +followed by swelling and inflammation, which often lasted for a +considerable time, and sometimes even proved fatal. The process +was simple: the victim of vanity was made to lie flat on the +ground, while the artist sketched his design with charcoal on the +skin, which was then punctured by little bundles of needles, made +of the bones of birds or fishes, though human bones were preferred. +Some were so arranged as to resemble the teeth of a saw, and were +used in producing straight lines. Others had but one fine point +for giving delicate finishing touches, and for working on such +sensitive spots as could not endure the sharper pain. The needles +having previously been dipped in a black dye, made from the +kernel of the candle-nut, reduced to charcoal and mixed with oil, +were struck sharply with a small hammer, thus puncturing the +skin, carrying with them the dye, which, seen through the transparent +and very silky skin, had the effect of being blue.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The custom of tattooing was certainly widespread. Herodotus +has recorded its existence even among the Thracians, of whom he +remarked that the “barbarians could be exceedingly foppish after +their fashion. The man who was not tattooed amongst them was +not respected.” If tattooing was in fashion so near Phœnicia, who +knows but that those roving traders may have been the first to +suggest to our fair-skinned forefathers the attractions of blue woad +as high art decoration?</p> + +<p class='c008'>Not only have such practices as tattooing died out in Tahiti, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_278'>278</span>but even the distinctive games of the people have apparently been +forgotten,—at least I have seen none played. Yet in olden times +there were many national sports; as, for instance, one which exactly +answered to golf, and was played with sticks, slightly curved +at one end, and a hard ball made of strips of native cloth. Football +was formerly as popular in Tahiti as in Britain or Japan, the +ball used being a large roll of the stalks of banana-leaves, firmly +twisted together. The players were often women, twenty or thirty +on each side; and in the scramble to seize the ball, there was as +much rough sport as in any English public school. As the games +were generally played on the beach, the ball was often thrown into +the sea, and followed by the merry crowd with shouts and ringing +laughter.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Boxing also found favour with the lower orders; and wrestling +and archery were as highly esteemed in Tahiti as in Japan, and, +moreover, were equally associated with religious festivals, which +probably is the reason of their having fallen into disuse. The +dresses worn by the archers, with their bows and arrows, were all +considered sacred, and certain persons were appointed to keep +them. Before the contest began, the archers went to the <i>marae</i> +to perform certain religious ceremonies; and at the end of the +game, they returned thither to change their dress, bathe, and restore +their bow and arrows to their appointed keeper, before they +could venture to eat, or to enter their own homes. The bows in +use were about five feet in length; the arrows about three feet, +and the distance to which they would fly was often about 300 +yards. They were never used in war, nor for shooting at a mark, +as in Fiji.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Spear-throwing and slinging stones were games in which a target +was always set up, and generally hit with precision; but these +were exercises of war, in which the players had abundant practice. +The slingers generally formed the advance-guard in battle, and +often did much execution. The stones selected were about the +size of a hen’s egg. The slings were made of finely braided cocoa-nut +husk, or filaments of native flax, with a loop at one end for the +hand, and at the other a place for the stone. In throwing, the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_279'>279</span>sling was stretched across the back, whirled round the head, and +thus the missile was discharged with great force.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the game which always excited the keenest interest was +wrestling. Here, as in Japan, the announcement of a wrestling-match +brought together thousands both of men and women, all in +their holiday garbs. The wrestlers, like the archers, first repaired +to the <i>marae</i> to do homage to the gods; then entering the ring, +which was generally on some grassy spot near the sea-shore, they +fell to work in good earnest. Sometimes the wrestlers of one +island challenged those of another; or else the challenge was from +men of different districts. Their dress consisted only of a waist-cloth, +and a coating of fresh oil. The moment a man was thrown, +the friends of the conqueror commenced to dance and sing triumphantly +with an accompaniment of drums; and as the vanquished +party raised songs of defiance, the din must have been pretty +considerable. However, it subsided the moment fresh wrestlers +entered the ring, and the spectators watched the progress of the +struggle in dead silence and with intense interest. When the +contest was over, the wrestlers returned to the <i>marae</i> to present +their offerings to the protecting gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Without looking back to classical times and Greek games, it +seems strange, does it not, that these very uncivilised savages of +the South Seas should have assigned to wrestling precisely the +same religious importance as is bestowed on it by the Shintoists +of Japan. Possibly both nations retained this sacred game as +practised by their common Malay ancestors,<a id='r59'></a><a href='#f59' class='c017'><sup>[59]</sup></a> from whom, probably, +both derived their custom<a id='r60'></a><a href='#f60' class='c017'><sup>[60]</sup></a> of offering savoury meats, and making +acts of homage to their deceased relations; though the Japanese, +either from inborn refinement or Chinese influence, place on their +domestic shrine only the tablets of the dead; whereas the Tahitian +<span class='pageno' id='Page_280'>280</span>preserved the ancestral skulls hidden in the roof of his +house.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The perch for fowls,<a id='r61'></a><a href='#f61' class='c017'><sup>[61]</sup></a> so familiar in the neighbourhood of all +Shinto temples in Japan, had its counterpart in the homes of the +Tahitian chiefs; though the fowls here do not appear to have been +consecrated to the gods, but trained for fighting. The native +legends assert that cock-fighting was the most ancient native game, +and the birds were reared and tended with the utmost care. No +artificial spurs were used, and the belligerents were separated before +either was injured. The fights came off at break of day, that +the birds might be perfectly cool; and large crowds assembled to +witness the contests, which sometimes were carried on for several +mornings consecutively.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In tracing all manner of kindred customs in the isles of the +North and South Pacific, I observe, amongst minor points, how +very widespread is the passion for shampooing,—a friendly office +which every old woman in the South Seas seems as ready to perform +for the wearied wayfarer as is the professional blind man +of Japan; involving an amount of manipulation which I should +suppose to be truly odious, but to which many foreigners take +kindly, and which seems to find favour in all Asiatic countries.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I take an especial interest in all such links as seem to connect +these isles with Japan, because I have a pet theory of my own, +that all these fair Polynesian islanders have drifted here by a +circuitous route <i>viâ</i> the North Pacific. The commonly accepted +notion is, that all the groups in the East Pacific have been peopled +by Malays, who found their way here by a directly eastward +migration. It is difficult, however, to imagine why they should +have come so far, when, in coming from that direction, Australia +and New Guinea lay so much nearer to them.</p> + +<p class='c008'>If you open the map of the world and rule a transverse line, +passing through the Sandwich Islands in the North Pacific and +the Friendly Isles in the South, you will perceive that the groups +lying to the east are the Navigators, Fiji, the Hervey Isles, Tahiti, +the Paumotu, the Marquesan, the Austral Isles, and New Zealand, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_281'>281</span>every one of which is peopled by comparatively fair-skinned races, +with hair which by nature is straight and black, although in many +of the isles, as in Samoa, custom requires that it should be dyed or +bleached, cut short and stiffened, so as to produce the effect of a +wig. I am not sure if the spiral curls of the yellow-haired Tongans +and Fijians are artificially produced, because I have never +seen one individual of either race whose hair had not been dyed +with coral-lime; but I know that a Samoan girl who refrains from +“improving” nature, finds herself possessed of fine black tresses, +as silky and as beautiful as those of any Italian maiden.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To the west of our line lies Melanesia, comprising the Marshall +Isles, the Carolines, Solomon Isles, New Guinea, New Britain, +New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and Australia. These, almost +without exception, are peopled by dark-skinned races, repulsive in +their ugliness, and with hair more or less woolly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All these lie between Eastern Polynesia and the Malay country, +and there seems no reason whatever to account for those hardy +little warriors passing by so many fertile isles, in search of the +unknown region to the east. Surely it is more probable that, +having first overrun Formosa, and then peopled Japan, they thence +sailed to the Sandwich Isles, and so gradually made their way to +the south. We know that in old days their vessels were very +much better than those now commonly used by them; and the +voyage from Japan to Hawaii, and thence to Tahiti, would have +been by no means impossible, especially as the existing strong +ocean-currents would naturally tend to draw any ship by this +course.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is said that even a log of wood fairly launched on the Malay +coast, would naturally drift by this circuitous water-way till it +returned westward to the shores of New Guinea. A glance at a +map of ocean-currents will, I think, make this plain to you.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I know that this theory is contrary to that generally entertained; +but as the natives of Tahiti have always maintained that their +ancestors came from Hawaii (to which they retain the strongest +links of family affection, the principal families of the two groups +being united to one another by ties of blood), I cannot understand +<span class='pageno' id='Page_282'>282</span>why learned men should maintain that Hawaii must really mean +Savaii in the Samoan group, concerning which the Tahitians know +little or nothing, except what they have learned, by their visits to +that group, in the character of native missionaries.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There are many points which seem to me in favour of the circuitous +route <i>viâ</i> Japan; such, for instance, as the gradual deterioration +in the art of tattooing, in which, beyond all question, +Japan excels all other nations, and which in the Marquesas, Tahiti, +New Zealand, and, I think, also in Hawaii, retained its graceful +character, gradually falling off as it travelled westward to Fiji +and Tonga. Many other points of similarity exist, such as the +use of the honorific prefix O before proper names, as in Japan, +O-yama (Respected mountain), or in addressing any person politely. +Throughout Polynesia the same custom exists. Hence early travellers +wrote of Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, as O-whyhee, O-taheiti, O-samoa; +and the same with reference to names of persons.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another point which to me appears to support the theory of the +circuitous movement is, that those best acquainted with Samoan +matters assert that, beyond any doubt, the Ellice group, lying far +to the <i>west</i> of Samoa, was peopled from thence. It is therefore +only natural to infer that the tall, comely race of light copper-coloured +people who inhabit the south-east coast of New Guinea +(that is to say, due west from the Ellice Isles), probably reached +those shores about the same period, and from the same direction. +Their women are beautifully tattooed, and their language wonderfully +resembles that of the Rarotongan teachers, who have come +from the distant Hervey Isles to settle among them as pioneers, +sent by the native mission in that far easterly group; in fact, many +of their words are identical.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Again, it is a well-established fact that Fotuna and Aniwa, two +of the southern New Hebrides, which lie due west of the Friendly +Isles, were peopled by the descendants of a party of Tongans, who +drifted thither in a large canoe and settled on these uninhabited +isles. These islanders have retained their own language, and their +children when born are very fair, but as they grow up they become +almost as dark in colour as their Papuan neighbours. Their hair +<span class='pageno' id='Page_283'>283</span>is of the Polynesian type, and some allow it to grow long and +smooth by not dyeing it with lime.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Yet another argument in favour of the migration having originally +taken a northward course, lies in the physical development of +the race. Surely it is easier to recognise a direct Malay ancestry +for the warlike little Japanese, with their reverence for the sacred +swords of their demigods, than for these stalwart Polynesians, with +their firmly knit, muscular limbs, and stately yet graceful bearing. +The race increased in stature, improved in feature, and enriched in +colour on their southward way—circumstances doubtless due to +more easy and luxurious lives, with better and more abundant +food.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Beautiful as is the rich copper colour of these islanders, their +own ideal of beauty, as showing pure blood, consists in possessing +a very fair skin; and I have often been amused, when sketching, +by their anxiety to be represented several shades lighter than +nature, not from any wish to resemble foreigners, but evidently +as embodying their tradition of good ancestry. They by no means +despise the use of cosmetics to bring about so desirable a result: +the Marquesan women, for instance, though naturally of a light +copper colour, contrive to make their skin almost white by an +application of the root of the papawa tree.</p> + +<p class='c008'>That modifying circumstances may produce such changes, both +in stature and complexion, is now, I suppose, generally admitted; +in fact it is almost certain that in some cases where barren atolls +(such as the Kingsmill or Gilbert group, on the equator) have from +accidental circumstances been peopled by descendants of these +splendid men they have degenerated beyond recognition, and are +now a short, spare, and generally ugly race. Naturally, the change +from unbounded supplies of nutritious vegetable diet—bread-fruit, +bananas, cocoa-nut, yams, sugar, and all the luxuries of the tropics—to +isles where a coarse meal, prepared from the woody fruit of the +pandanus, is the only edible form of vegetable, has in due time +produced this result. Therefore it seems perfectly reasonable to +infer that the converse occurred when an under-fed aggressive race, +engaged from their cradles in piracy and strife, found themselves +<span class='pageno' id='Page_284'>284</span>at rest in these Capuan isles, and there yielded to the habits of +indolent ease, which they so naturally engender.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Yet to this day the chief characteristics of the Malays are common +throughout Polynesia. In each of these groups a truly Asiatic +code of wearisome, elaborate ceremonial is observed on every possible +occasion; the smallest breach of etiquette is considered a +crime; a joke of any sort, especially of the nature of “chaff,” is +an unpardonable offence; in speech, flowery compliments which +mean nothing and veil thought are the rule—slow, deliberate +oratory, in which the best speaker is he who can talk for hours +without touching his point, and then condense all he wishes to say, +in a few pithy words.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All these islanders are distinguished by a natural grace and +courtesy of manner—sometimes dignified, at others most winning; +yet under extreme external politeness they have often nursed +schemes of cold treachery and cruelty, which they have carried +out unscrupulously to the bitter end. (I speak, of course, of the +islanders as they were by nature, ere the mellowing, transforming +influence of Christianity had dawned on the South Seas.) But to +this hour the Polynesians, like the Malays, are, as a rule, careless, +easy-going, impassive beings, generally light-hearted; all fatalists, +as a matter of course; strangely indifferent to physical pain, +whether endured by themselves or inflicted on others; but when +once roused to fighting-pitch, wholly uncontrollable in their blind +mad fury.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the strongest proof of their Malay descent lies in the similarity +of their various languages, both to one another and to the +mother tongue. It is not merely a likeness in general construction, +but many words are almost identical, as you may gather at +a glance from the following vocabulary. In short, the whole subject +is extremely interesting, but is one which I must leave to the +discussion of learned folk, whose wise disquisitions you can study +at your leisure.</p> + +<table class='table1'> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='12'><span class='pageno' id='Page_285'>285</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>English.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Malay.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Niua and Vaté, New Hebrides.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>New Zealand.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Rotumah.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Fiji.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Tonga.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Samoa.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Raratonga.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Marquesas.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Tahiti.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt brt c022'><i>Hawaii.</i></th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Heavens</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Langit</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rang</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rangi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lang</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ani</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ra’i</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Lani</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Rain</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ujan</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Uas</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Utha</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Uha</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Ua</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Fire</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Api</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Afi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Kapura</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Reh</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Bukawanga</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Afi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Afi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>A’i</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ahi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Auahi</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Ahi</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Head</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ulu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Uru</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Matenga</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Filou</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ndluna</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ulu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ulu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mimiti</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Upoko</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Upoo</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Po’o</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Eye</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Kanohi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Math</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Maka</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Ear</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Telinga</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Teringa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Taringa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Falinga</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ndalingana</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Telinga</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Taringa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Taringa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Buaina</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tari’a</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Pepei ao</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Teeth</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Nihi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Nifo</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niho</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Al</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Batina</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Nifo</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Nifo</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ni’o</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niho</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niho</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Niho</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Arm</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ringa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Siu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lingana</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Nima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Iima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rima</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Lima</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Die</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mati</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Akia</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Oti</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Pohe</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Make</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Come</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Omai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fano mai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Haere mai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Leum</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lako mai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Hau</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Omai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tae</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Amai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Haere mai</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Hele mai</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Stone</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Batu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fatu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Maka</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Hoth</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vatu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Maka</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ma’a</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Toka</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Kea</td> + <td class='blt c023'>O fa’i</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Pohaku</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Water</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Wai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Voi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Wai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vai or Pape</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Uai</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Cocoa-nut</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Nyu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td> + <td class='blt c023'>...</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Eehi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Haari</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Niu</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Fish</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ikan</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td> + <td class='blt c023'>I’e</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td> + <td class='blt c023'>I’a</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td> + <td class='blt c023'>I’a</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Lawaia</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>House</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Bali</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fare</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Whare</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ri</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vale</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fale</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fale</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Are</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fae</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fare</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Hale</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Woman</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Perampuan</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fafine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Whahine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Hoien</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Alewa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fefine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fafine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vaine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vahine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vahine</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Wahine</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Man</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Orang</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tha</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tamata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Euata</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tane</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Kanaka</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Drink</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Minum</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inumia</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Iom</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ngunu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Inu</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Canoe</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Sampan</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Waka</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Tafang</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Wanka</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Va’a</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Va’a</td> + <td class='bbt blt brt c023'>Kau</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<table class='table1'> + <tr><td class='c010' colspan='8'><span class='pageno' id='Page_286'>286</span></td></tr> + <tr><th class='c010' colspan='8'><span class='sc'>Here are the Numerals.</span></th></tr> + <tr> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>English.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Malay.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Samoa.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Fiji.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Rarotonga.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Marquesas.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Tahiti.</i></th> + <th class='btt bbt blt brt c023'><i>Hawaii.</i></th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>One</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Satu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tasi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Dua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ta’i</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tahi</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tahi</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Kahi</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Two</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Dua or Lua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rua</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Alua</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Three</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Talu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tolu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tola</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Toru</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tou</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Toru</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Akolo</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Four</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ha</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Va</td> + <td class='blt c023'>A</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ha</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Aha</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Five</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ima</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Rima</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Alima</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Six</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Onoma</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Eono</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Seven</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Pitu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fitu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vita</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Itu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Fitu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Hitu</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Ahiku</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Eight</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Walu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Valu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ualo</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Valu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Vau</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Varu</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Auala</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Nine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Siwa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Iva</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Thewa</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Iua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Iva</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Iva</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Aiwa</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Ten</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Sapuloh</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Sefulu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tine</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ngaulu</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Onohn’u</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ahuru</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'>Umi</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='blt c023'>Eleven</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Sepuloh dua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Sefulu Lua</td> + <td class='blt c023'>Tine ka kua</td> + <td class='blt c023'> </td> + <td class='blt c023'> </td> + <td class='blt c023'>Ta’au</td> + <td class='blt brt c023'> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Twenty</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Ruapuloh</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Lua Fulu</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Rua sang a vula</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Elua ngaulu</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'>Eua onohu’u</td> + <td class='bbt blt c023'> </td> + <td class='bbt blt brt c023'>Iwakalua</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIX.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE IN PAPEETE—THE MARKET—CHURCHES—COUNTRY LIFE IN THE SOUTH SEAS.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>The Red House, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, December 1st</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We have had a very gay week, including several festivities on +board the three French men-of-war now in harbour. On Saturday +I was invited to dine on board Le Limier, with the Greens, Viennots, +and Verniers. (In case your French fails you, I may remind +you that a <i>limier</i> is a blood-hound; a fact which I only recollected +on seeing canine heads on all the boats.) M. Puèch is a good +friend of the French Protestant Mission, and his visit to Tahiti is +a happy event for all its members. After a pleasant dinner, we +sat on deck to hear the sailors sing, and then went off in small +canoes for a nearer sight of the <i><span lang="fr">pêche à flambeaux</span></i>, which was going +<span class='pageno' id='Page_287'>287</span>on in every direction near the reef—the flashing torches and dark +figures of the fishermen forming a most picturesque scene.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another day we breakfasted on board Le Seignelay, and in the +afternoon a large party assembled on La Magicienne to see the +boat-races. A pretty sight, and seen from a beautiful and most +luxurious ship.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On Wednesday, the admiral held his last reception at Government +House, at which there was a very large attendance; and Mrs +Brander had most mirthful dances here on Monday, and again last +night. The latter was a farewell, and I fear that to many of the +young folk it was really a very sorrowful one.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning we watched La Magicienne steam out of harbour +on her way to Valparaiso. The admiral leaves a pleasant vice-governor +in M. D’Oncieue de la Battye, who is happily allowed +to retain the excellent band till the arrival of the new governor; +when the Seignelay is to convey him and it to Valparaiso. So the +Tahitians find some consolation in this arrangement.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I think our Sundays would seem to you rather a curious medley, +so I will give you a sketch of to-day from morning till evening. +I was, as usual, awakened at 5 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> by the chattering of many voices, +as the boats discharged their cargoes of fruit and rainbow-coloured +fish beneath my windows. It was an exquisite cloudless morning, +and I was seized with a sudden impulse to follow the crowd to the +market, which hitherto I had only seen in its deserted afternoon +aspect.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Passing by roads which are called streets, but are rather shady +bowers of yellow hybiscus and bread-fruit trees, I entered the covered +market-place, where were assembled as gay a throng as you could +wish to see, many of them dressed in flowing robes of the very +brightest colours; for the people here assembled are chiefly <i>le +peuple</i>, whose days of ceremonial mourning for their good old +queen are drawing to a close; so the long tresses of glossy black +hair, hitherto so carefully hidden within their jaunty little sailor +<span class='pageno' id='Page_288'>288</span>hats, are now again suffered to hang at full length in two silky +plaits, and hair and hats are wreathed with bright fragrant flowers +of double Cape jessamine, orange-blossom, scarlet hybiscus, or +oleander. Many wear a delicate white jessamine star in the ear +in place of an ear-ring. The people here are not so winsome as +those in remoter districts. Too much contact with shipping and +grog-shops has of course gone far to deteriorate them, and take +off the freshness of life; but a South Sea crowd is always made +up of groups pleasant to the eye; and a party of girls dressed in +long graceful sacques of pale sea-green, or delicate pink, pure +white, or bright crimson, chatting and laughing as they roll up +minute fragments of tobacco in strips of pandanus or banana to +supply the inevitable cigarette, is always attractive.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The men all wear <i>pareos</i> of Manchester cotton stuff, prepared +expressly for these isles, and of the most wonderful patterns. +Those most in favour are bright crimson with a large white +pattern, perhaps groups of red crowns on circles of white, arranged +on a scarlet ground, or else rows of white crowns, alternating with +groups of stars. A dark-blue ground with circles and crosses in +bright yellow, or scarlet with yellow anchors and circles, also find +great favour; and though they certainly sound “loud” when thus +described, they are singularly effective. It is wonderful what a +variety of patterns can be produced, not one of which has ever +been seen in England. With these the men wear white shirts, and +sailor’s hats, with bright-coloured silk handkerchiefs tied over them +and knotted on the ear; or else a gay garland.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On entering the market, it struck me that many of the sellers +must have taken up their quarters over-night, for their gay quilts +and pillows lay near, as they sat on their mats snatching a hasty +breakfast of fruit or raw fish.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The latter is always in favour. Little fish or big fish of certain +sorts are swallowed with apparently the same delight as you might +hail a basket of ripe cherries; in fact, a green banana-leaf full of +skipping shrimps, is a dainty dish for any pretty maid, who +crunches the wriggling creatures with her gleaming white teeth, or +lets them hop down her throat with the greatest coolness.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_289'>289</span>The fish here offered for sale are of every sort and size and +colour. Large silvery fish, flat fish; long narrow fish with prolonged +snouts, excellent to eat; the <i>au</i> or needle-fish, with long +sharp-pointed head; and gay scarlet and green and blue fishes of +every colour of the rainbow. I have seen gaudy fish in many +tropical seas, but nowhere such brilliancy as here. There are rock-fish +of all sorts, bonito, good fresh-water salmon with white flesh, +eels, mussels, turtle, clams, echini, prawns, red and white cray-fish, +&c., &c. Sometimes the market has a fair supply of poultry, +turkeys, fowls, pigeons, and wild duck,—generally a few live pigs, +which are carried hanging from a pole and squealing pitifully. +They are very good, and clean feeders, being allowed to wander +at large, and find themselves in cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. The +enterprising Chinamen, as usual, improve the vegetable supply, +especially in the matter of what I venture to call Christian potatoes, +in opposition to the indigenous potato, <i>alias</i> yam.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Every one brings to the morning market whatever he happens +to have for sale. Some days he has a large stock-in-trade, sometimes +next to nothing. But, be it little or be it much, he divides it +into two lots, and slings his parcels or baskets from a light bamboo-pole +which rests across his shoulder, and, light as it is, often +weighs more than the trifles suspended from it,—perhaps a few +shrimps in a green leaf are slung from one end, and a lobster from +the other, or, it may be, a tiny basket of new-laid eggs balanced by +half-a-dozen silvery fishes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But often the burden is so heavy that the pole bends with the +weight—of perhaps two huge bunches of mountain bananas—and +you think how that poor fellow’s shoulder must have ached as he +carried his spoil down the steep mountain-path from the cleft in +the rugged rock where the <i>faees</i> had contrived to take root. These +resemble bunches of gigantic golden plums. As a bit of colour +they are glorious, but as a vegetable I cannot learn to like them,—which +is perhaps as well, as the native proverb says that the +foreigner who does appreciate <i>faees</i>, can never stay away from +Tahiti.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As you enter the cool shady market you see hundreds of those +<span class='pageno' id='Page_290'>290</span>golden clusters hanging from ropes stretched across the building, +and great bunches of mangoes and oranges. These last lie heaped +in baskets, among cool green leaves. Sometimes a whole laden +bough has been recklessly cut off. Pine-apples, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, +all are there, and baskets of scarlet tomatoes, suggestive of +cool salads.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But tempting above all are the luscious mangoes, whose thin +skins are ready to burst at a touch, and yield their treasure of +delight to thirsting lips. Purple, or golden, or pale yellow, long-shaped +or egg-shaped, I know not which to prefer; each in turn +seems more delicious than any other, and the only difficulty is to +stop feasting before the basket is empty! If Tahiti owns no other +debt of gratitude to France, she at least has to thank a French +governor for this excellent fruit, which is now so thoroughly +acclimatised, that it has attained a perfection rarely equalled in +any other country, and, moreover, grows so luxuriantly and bears +fruit so abundantly, as to form an important item in the food of +the people.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Returning from the market to a pleasant early breakfast on the +cool verandah, I rested in luxurious quiet till the bells of the +Roman church close by, summoned the faithful to the nine o’clock +service, which I generally attend, in preference to walking in the +heat to the large native Congregational church—“<i>le temple Protestant</i>”—where +the long service, in a tongue to me unknown, is a +weariness of flesh and spirit. Moreover, it lacks the picturesque +element which was to me so attractive in the simple Fijian +churches, where soft mats are the only furnishings required. +Here the congregation are penned in hideous pews, which make +it difficult, if not impossible, to kneel—a natural attitude of +worship, which, in the early days of Tahitian Christianity, was as +common as it now is in Fiji, but from which the modern Tahitians +refrain in church, as savouring of Romish ritual!</p> + +<p class='c008'>At the Catholic church, the bishop preaches half in French, half +in Tahitian, that all his hearers may carry away some message in +their own tongue; and the singing by the French Sisters and their +school-children is always sweet and harmonious. I cannot say the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_291'>291</span>congregation is large—merely a small handful of natives; such of +the French as are compelled to be present at all, having already +been in official attendance at the eight o’clock military Mass, +which is to me a very distasteful form of worship. I think that +good Père Collet looks on me as rather a hopeful convert; but I +tell him I only appear as the representative of my naval friends, +who all consider church-going in any form as altogether unnecessary, +neither officers nor sailors ever attending service since our +arrival here.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After church, we went to breakfast on board Le Seignelay, and +then to see Queen Marau, whom we escorted to the Government +House gardens, where we were joined by several friends. The +great attractions there are two newly arrived Russian bears, +passengers by Le Limier—nice brown beasts, and very tame.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We returned here just in time for the family dinner, from which, +as usual, Mrs Brander and I made our way to the evening service +at the little Congregational chapel, at which only a tiny handful +of the foreign residents assemble. All the members of the Protestant +mission officiate by turns, in French or English; and this +evening M. Vernier conducted the service in admirable English. +But a strong counter-attraction is offered by the pleasant gardens, +where the band always reserves its most attractive programme for +Sunday night; and we catch tempting snatches of lovely operatic +airs as we walk homeward by the hybiscus-shaded lanes.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa Valley</span>, <i>Thursday, 6th Dec.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Last Monday the whole party moved out from Papeete to this +lovely country-home. It is a delightful bungalow, built by Mr +Brander—a cool one-storeyed house, with wide shady verandahs; a +pleasant garden, bright with summer flowers; masses of cool shade; +and a clear, beautiful river, which affords a dozen delightful bathing-places +of varied depth, so that every one can select a spot according +to his own heart’s desire. All the family and their friends +can swim like fishes, so of course they prefer the deep pools, and +have a favourite spot just below the house, where they disport +<span class='pageno' id='Page_292'>292</span>themselves joyously at all hours of the day; and the first hospitable +offer made to callers, is that of a <i>pareo</i> and towels, that they +may at once enjoy this most refreshing luxury.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I, being a foolish non-swimmer, and moreover somewhat ungregarious, +have discovered a bathing paradise for myself some way +further up the stream, where the interlacing boughs of cool blue-grey +hybiscus foliage form an immense arbour—a dressing-room of +leafy shade, through which the gurgling waters flow gently, with +rippling, liquid, most musical tones—the voice of hidden streams. +Here a rivulet leaves the main river, and its sparkling waters play +over a thick velvety carpet of the softest, greenest mosses, forming +the most delightful couch you can imagine; while from the leafy +canopy overhead drop pale lemon-coloured blossoms, which float +idly down the stream; and from the wild guava bushes I can pluck +any number of ripe guavas, or, to be still more luxurious, I may +gather luscious mangoes on my way from the house. Can you +wonder that so fascinating a bower is not only my first attraction +at early dawn, but a favourite retreat at all hours? Sometimes I +end the evening with a moonlight bathe, but am inclined to think +that this is imprudent, as it is always followed by a feeling of chill, +though the water and air both feel warm and delicious.</p> + +<p class='c008'>My hostess has presented me with a couple of sacques like those +worn by all Tahitian ladies. They are the perfection of dress in +this climate, being so delightfully cool. They are literally flowing +garments, for they only touch you at the shoulders, and thence fall +in long loose folds. So when the first ray of light gilds the high +mountains in which this lovely valley lies embosomed, I slip on one +of those simple dresses, and start barefoot across the dewy lawn and +by the grassy paths that lead to the stream. Going barefoot is only +a preliminary stage of bathing, for the grass is saturated with moisture, +and an early walk across a field is about equivalent to walking +knee-deep through a river.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Curiously enough, it is to this heavy night-dew that the royal +family of Tahiti owe their name of Pomare, which literally means +“night cough.” About four generations back the king chanced to +be sleeping on the mountains and exposed to the penetrating dew +<span class='pageno' id='Page_293'>293</span>which brought on a troublesome cough. His followers spoke of +the <i>po mare</i>, and the sound of the words pleased the royal ear; and +thenceforth the king adopted this euphonious but singular surname, +which has since been borne by each crowned head.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This very odd custom of adopting a name to commemorate some +simple event, was common to a good many of the isles. Mr Gill +mentions such names as “Lost son,” adopted by the king of Mangaia +when his son had been stolen; a title retained long after the +lad had been restored. Another man took the name of “Deal-coffin,” +because a relation had been buried in a sailor’s chest. One +chief desired to be always called “Press me,” because those words +had been uttered by a dying grandchild when in pain; and another +was called “Dim-sight,” because his grandfather suffered from weak +eyes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This pleasant country-home is about three miles from Papeete, +and various carriages are ready after early breakfast to convey the +gentlemen to town, whence some return to late breakfast, others not +till dinner-time. But all day long, people come and go on divers +errands of business or pleasure; and the drive is so pretty as to be +in itself quite an enjoyment. In short, life here is altogether easy +and luxurious, combined with most captivating simplicity.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The already large family party has been increased by the arrival +of a third big brother, Ariipaea, who has been for some time living +on another of the islands. Mrs Salmon and the pretty young +sisters, and several friends, are also staying here, a most loving +“family-pie.” To Narii this happy valley has an additional charm, +for it is also the home of a certain charming “Mademoiselle Cécile,” +whom he hopes ere long to include in the family circle.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>the Rev. James Green, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Friday Evening</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This morning early, Ariipaea drove me here, where it had been +arranged that I should meet M. Brun, the <i>pasteur</i> of Moorea, and +accompany him to his beautiful isle. We were to have taken passage +in one of a small fleet of Moorea boats, which arrived here +some days ago in order to build a district house, which shall henceforth +<span class='pageno' id='Page_294'>294</span>be the regular headquarters of all Mooreans who have occasion +to visit Papeete. The house was finished this morning, and the +event was notified by a most deafening beating of native drums, +after which all the boats set sail, very sensibly objecting to lose the +fair breeze by any delay. M. Brun arrived in time to see them flying +before the wind, like a flight of white butterflies.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I solaced myself by commencing a careful study of a noble bread-fruit +tree, overshadowing Queen Moë’s house, when suddenly a cry +was raised that an English man-of-war was signalled. Great was +the excitement that prevailed, as it is fully four years since the +British ensign was last seen in this harbour, and there was a general +chorus of disappointment when it was found that the visitor was only +a small sloop, H.M.S. Daring; a disappointment, however, which +was followed by great rejoicing, when it became known that she +was the forerunner of H.M.S. Shah, Admiral de Horsey’s flag-ship, +which is to arrive here in a few days. Already the small society of +the place is in a ferment at the prospect of so important a visitor; +and the arrival of about fifty English officers will compensate for +the departure of the French flag-ship. So all manner of hospitalities +are already under discussion, as we gathered from the general +conversation at the band this evening.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I shall leave this letter to go by H.M.S. Daring, in case she sails +before I return from Moorea; so shall bid you good-bye for the +present.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XX.<br> <span class='c009'>VISIT TO THE PROTESTANT MISSION ON MOOREA—A SKETCH OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE MISSION.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Madame Brun, Papetoai, Moorea</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, 8th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I am safely ensconced in this most charming little home, and +very glad indeed to have reached it, for we have had rather a +tiring day. Mrs Green most kindly gave me breakfast at five, that +<span class='pageno' id='Page_295'>295</span>I might be ready for a six o’clock start; but it was fully eight +before we got away, in a Haapiti boat, which agreed to bring us to +this side of the island. We rowed out of harbour, hoping to catch +a breeze, but it fell dead calm, and for four long hours we lay just +outside the reef, rocked by heavy rollers—the water smooth as oil, +and the burning heat of the sun so intense that I almost expected +that the water would really frizzle! The thermometer at this season +sometimes rises to 120° in the shade. I am afraid that if the truth +must be confessed, both M. Brun and I were exceeding sea-sick.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At last, to our great relief, a fresh breeze sprang up, and our little +boat literally flew over the water, and in less than two hours carried +us across to the pretty village of Tiaia, in the district of Teaharoa, +whence one hour’s rowing inside the reef, along the most lovely +shore, brought us here, where we were welcomed to this sweet +French home by its pretty clever little mistress, and three charmingly +old-fashioned children, Lucie, Henri, and Adrien, who administered +refreshing hot tea to the tired and giddy travellers; after +which I, for one, yielded to peaceful sleep, and awoke to find the +watchful little trio all ready to escort me in any direction, and show +me such treasures of delight as only true country children can discover. +This is a fairy-like nest, on the shore of the loveliest sea +lake, with wooded mountains all round, and a background of mighty +rock-pinnacles, which are glorified in this evening light, and seem +like the towers and ramparts of some celestial city.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Sunday, 9th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>To me this has been a day of intense peace. A silence which +may be felt seems to enfold this exquisite spot, and from morning +till evening not a ripple has disturbed the perfect calm of the blue +waters—only the light fronds of the cocoa-palms quiver and gleam +with every faint breath of air.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The village is perhaps a quarter of a mile from the house, and +lies buried in a thicket of bread-fruit and mango-trees. There my +hosts have spent the greater part of the day, having held four +church services, and morning and afternoon school. But I have +rejoiced in a day of quiet idleness, spent chiefly on the lovely shore +<span class='pageno' id='Page_296'>296</span>beneath the shadow of very large trees, whose great boughs overhang +the white coral beach,—shell-strewn and crab-haunted. At +high tide the silvery waters creep upward till the far-spreading +roots are half bathed in the brine, while the other half are buried +in a tangle of lilac marine convolvulus, wherein myriads of hermit-crabs +disport themselves.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Madame Valles came to breakfast. She is the daughter of that +dear old lady Mrs Simpson, of whose death I told you in a former +letter. Her husband is a retired French naval officer, who has +settled in this beautiful valley as a planter.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This evening several members of the congregation met here to +hold a prayer-meeting, after which they sang most harmonious +sacred <i>himènes</i>—the very first I have heard since I was last on +Moorea.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have rarely in any land seen a nicer and more thoroughly +respectable-looking body of people than these; so gentle and courteous +in their manners, and apparently so reliable. I fancy that in +this secluded isle the people have retained more of their primitive +Christianity than they have done in Papeete, where French influence +and utter infidelity are continually acting as a leaven of evil, +and where the fervour of first love is certainly a thing of the past, +as regards the mass of the population.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Such at least is my own impression, seeing only the surface of +life, and naturally comparing things here with the very high standard +now existing in Fiji, which has been my home for the last two +years. The impulsive children of the South Seas are readily influenced +for good or for evil; and as they quickly and whole-heartedly +turned from their idols to embrace the purer faith taught them by +devout white men, so now they are in danger of becoming even +more careless than the average foreigners. I do not, however, mean +to imply that the Tahitians or any of the islanders who have once +adopted Christianity, have yet fallen away from its practice, so far +as the bulk of the people in any European nation. In such matters +as meeting for family prayer, and thanksgiving at meals, probably a +much larger proportion of Tahitians than of Britons are still true to +their early teaching.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_297'>297</span>It really is very difficult, in presence of such peaceful, kindly +people, and such settled forms of civilised Christian life, to realise +what different scenes were witnessed by the earlier visitors of this +lovely isle at the time of its discovery by Captain Wallis in 1767, +and Captain Cook’s subsequent visit.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was in March 1797 that the first band of missionaries arrived +here in the Duff, landing on Tahiti near Point Venus, where at +first they were kindly welcomed by King Pomare, Queen Idia, and +the chiefs, who seem to have expected that they would prove not +merely sources of wealth, by distributing barter, but also able +assistants in the art of war.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But when the new-comers were found to be men of peace, and +their mission that of teaching, they soon fell in the estimation of +the natives, and for many years they struggled, apparently in vain, +to stem the tide of idolatry and of such evil practices as infanticide +and the offering of human victims to the feather-gods, as the +Tahitians called their idols, because they were generally adorned +either with the scarlet feathers of a small bird, or the long tail-feathers +of the man-of-war or tropic bird.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As quicksilver attracts gold, so was it supposed that this gay +plumage became the very incarnation of the god; therefore, when +a tribe went forth to war (and of course desired that the presence +of their god should be with them) they held a solemn service at +the temple, and then took perhaps only one feather from off the +principal idol, and placed it in the ark prepared for it on the sacred +canoe, which formed part of every fleet. Then, till the close of +that expedition, all worship was addressed only to the feather-symbol, +and no sacrifices or prayers were offered at the <i>marae</i>, +lest the attention of the god being divided, he should return to +the land, forsaking the warriors.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At other times, however, he was present alike at every domestic +shrine which possessed a feather brought from the great temple. +For, as other nations have carried sacred symbolic fire from the +altar, to sanctify their domestic hearth or their family temple, so +did these Tahitians year by year assemble at the great national +temple, bringing with them offerings of the precious feathers. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_298'>298</span>These the priests deposited inside the hollow idols, distributing +among the worshippers those which had lain there since the previous +year, thereby imbibing such essence of sanctity as to convey +the very presence of the god wherever they were carried.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Not that those were the only visible symbols of the gods. Some +appeared to their worshippers in the form of sharks; others, less +terrible, took the form of divers birds. Hence, as I described to +you in one of my letters from Samoa, so here in Tahiti and Moorea, +the herons, kingfishers, and woodpeckers which frequented the old +trees round the temples, were reverenced as incarnations of the +deities, and their cries were interpreted as oracles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So strong was the hold of these superstitions, that for several +years the mission seemed to make little or no progress beyond the +establishment of gardens in which various imported fruits and +vegetables were successfully raised, and the people were taught to +cultivate them systematically for their own use. Orange-trees, +limes, shaddocks, citrons, tamarinds, guavas, custard-apples, peaches, +figs and vines, pine-apples and water-melons, pumpkins and cucumbers, +cabbages and other vegetables, were thus first introduced to +the island, where they are now so thoroughly acclimatised.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But in an evil hour a great intertribal war broke out for the +bodily possession of Oro, the national idol, and this first civilising +influence was swept away—the mission premises were laid waste, +the garden entirely destroyed, and the work of twelve years +scattered to the winds.</p> + +<p class='c008'>King Pomare, Otu his son, and all the chiefs and warriors of the +isle, had assembled at the great <i>marae</i> at Atehuru, where many +fatted pigs were offered on the altar, while the surrounding trees +were adorned with the ghastly corpses of human victims, all of whom +had been sacrificed to Oro. The ark containing the symbolic feather +was then placed on the sacred canoe belonging to the royal fleet.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But on the following day Otu pretended to have had a revelation +that the idol itself wished to be removed to Tautira; and on the +chiefs of Atehuru refusing to allow this, his followers rushed to +the temple, seized the idol, carried it off to the sea, and immediately +set sail. As soon as they reached land a human sacrifice was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_299'>299</span>ordered, lest Oro should resent this very cavalier treatment; and +as no captive was at hand, one of the king’s own servants was +slain, and offered as an atonement. Of course the despoiled chiefs +flew to arms, and prepared to revenge themselves, and recapture +their god. About 300 warriors came from the isle of Eimeo, now +called Moorea, to the aid of the king, and bloody battles were +fought, in which the chiefs’ army was almost invariably successful.</p> + +<p class='c008'>There does not appear to have been any trace of cannibalism on +either side, but the bodies of the slain were offered in sacrifice to +Oro by the victors; while, on the other hand, the king’s party did +not cease offering human sacrifices, and propitiating the idol by +every means in their power. It was recaptured by the chiefs of +Atehuru, who, however, with singular religious chivalry, allowed +the king to land and deposit his offerings near the temple, though +they naturally would not admit him within its precincts.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Happily for the mission party, it so happened that just at this +crisis a trading vessel came into harbour and landed some men; +and about the same time another small vessel was driven ashore, +with a crew of seventeen Englishmen. Thus they mustered a force +of twenty-three Europeans, who not only put the mission-house +into a state of defence, but lending their aid to the king, rendered +him material aid—a service which they must have regretted on +seeing that all prisoners of war were immediately put to death, +and their bodies savagely mutilated. Finally, the chiefs agreed to +resign the custody of the idol to the king; and so, for a while, +ended one of the many bloody struggles by which the various +nations of the earth have drained their heart’s blood for the possession +of some bit of so-called sacred wood or bone.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thenceforward the young King Otu carried the precious god +with him, whenever he sailed from one isle to another; and the +sacred canoe on which its ark was borne, was always deposited at +some <i>marae</i> shaded by sombre trees, from whose boughs human +victims offered sacrificially were immediately suspended.</p> + +<p class='c008'>While such scenes as these were the incidents of daily life, the +mission party had hardships enough to contend with. Five whole +years elapsed without either letters or supplies reaching them from +<span class='pageno' id='Page_300'>300</span>England. Their clothes were worn out, boots or shoes were wellnigh +forgotten superfluities; tea and sugar were among the luxuries +of the past. At last a small vessel arrived, specially chartered to +bring the letters and supplies which had for so long been accumulating +at Port Jackson. Imagine the rapture of seeing that little +vessel arrive; and then the dismay of discovering that almost +everything she had brought was either useless from having lain so +long at Port Jackson, or saturated with salt water owing to the +wretched condition of the ship. You who live in luxury at home, +with everything of the best, and plenty of it, and with so many +daily posts as to be a positive nuisance, cannot possibly realise +the weariness of that long waiting, or the depth of that disappointment.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nor was there anything cheering in daily life. The mission +work seemed to make no progress at all; the people openly mocked +the white men, and despised their teaching.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In 1808 war broke out again more savagely than before. The +altars of Oro reeked with human blood; villages were burnt, +plantations destroyed, and the whole country reduced to desolation +and ruin. The mission settlement was ransacked, the houses +burnt, the books distributed among the warriors to be used as +cartridge-paper, the printing-types melted to make musket-balls, +and every implement of iron found on the place was converted +into a destructive weapon. The gardens were again demolished, +and the students, finding the din of war more congenial than the +arts of peace, joined their brethren in arms.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Finally, feeling that their lives were in imminent danger, and +that there was apparently nothing to be gained by remaining, the +mission party resolved to abandon Tahiti; and taking advantage +of a vessel which happily arrived in harbour, they embarked for +Port Jackson, two only, Mr Hayward and Mr Nott, resolving to +remain at their several posts and face the worst—the former at +Huahine, the latter at Eimeo, to which King Pomare had fled +from his enemies. Various attempts were made on their lives, +happily without fatal result; and they continued to work as best +they could till the year 1812, when, at the invitation of King +<span class='pageno' id='Page_301'>301</span>Pomare, those who had been driven away from Tahiti returned, +and made a fresh effort to establish the mission on Eimeo.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They were cordially welcomed by the king, and by a small +number of chiefs, who, by Pomare’s words and example, had been +brought to look with contempt on their idols, and to incline towards +the new faith; and though greatly distracted by intertribal +wars, this little company resolved to build a substantial house +which should be set apart for the worship of the true God. Thus +in the summer of 1813 was the first Christian church in the +group erected in Papetoai, the very place whence I now write.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thirty persons came forward to make public profession of their +faith, desiring to have their names enrolled as having rejected idol-worship. +Among those who did so was Patii, the high priest of +the district, who came to Mr Nott, and announced his intention of +publicly burning all the idols in his care. It was a promise heard +with thankfulness not unmingled with dread, for there was every +probability that such an act would lead to wild excitement among +the heathen, and might possibly result in a massacre of the Christians. +However, Patii had made up his mind, and at the appointed +hour he and his friends collected a heap of fuel on the sea-shore, +near the huge <i>marae</i> where he had so often offered human +sacrifices to these dumb idols, which he now brought forth, and +tearing off the sacred cloth in which they had hitherto been draped, +he exhibited them in their hideous nakedness, to the vast multitudes +who had hitherto assembled at his bidding to do them +homage, and who had now come to witness this act of impious +sacrilege.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Some of these ugly little gods were rudely carved human figures, +and some had tiny figures carved in relief all over one large image; +others were shapeless logs of wood, covered with finely braided +cocoa-nut fibre and scarlet feathers; while some were angular +columns of basalt, quite rough, just as they had been found. One +by one were these once dreaded idols cast into the flames by their +former priest, who called on the people to behold their helplessness, +and bewailed his own folly in having hitherto worshipped such +monstrous objects.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_302'>302</span>Whatever may have been the feelings of the spectators, the +dreaded tumult was averted, and the people dispersed quietly; +indeed the example thus given was followed by many, both on +Eimeo (it is now called Moorea) and also on Tahiti, to which two +members of the mission—Messrs Scott and Hayward—now again +ventured to cross. Great was their joy when they found that +several of the natives had renounced idolatry and were earnest +worshippers of Christ, having been awakened by some words of +King Pomare to an exceeding longing for a better faith and purer +life than that of their fathers. Glimmerings of light had also found +their way to the Paumotu and other neighbouring isles, and by the +close of 1814 there was reason to believe that a total of nearly 600 +persons had renounced idol-worship and were feeling their way +towards the Light.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Naturally, such a movement was not viewed with satisfaction +by the great mass of the people. Everywhere the Christians were +persecuted by their heathen neighbours, who burnt their houses, +destroyed their gardens, spoiled their goods, and even hunted them +down, that they might offer them in sacrifice to the insulted gods. +At all times it was customary to tell off certain families or tribes, +from which the appointed victim-hunters were to select fit subjects +for sacrifice; and so numerous were those thus eligible, that on +some isles about one-third of the population lived in terror for their +lives, not knowing at what moment their doom might be sealed. +In many cases whole families forsook their homes secretly, and +started in their frail canoe to seek a new home on some unknown +isle, preferring to risk the dangers of the sea, and the chance of +being eaten by strangers, to the certainty that sooner or later their +turn must come to be offered in sacrifice to their cruel gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>How this terrible doom first came to be attached to any family +I cannot say, but, once decided, there was no escape. From generation +to generation the black shadow hung, like the sword of +Damocles, over each member, from the grey grandfather to the +mere stripling. As he went about his daily work, chatting with +his most trusted neighbours, one of the latter might open his hand +and reveal the small sacred stone which was his death-warrant, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_303'>303</span>delivered by the priest to the man who craved some special boon, +as a symbol that the god required a human sacrifice. Well did the +doomed man know how useless was resistance. His neighbours +knew no pity, and a brief struggle invariably resulted in his being +clubbed and carried to the <i>marae</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now the supply of victims was furnished from among those +known to favour the new faith; and many a pathetic story is still +told of the unflinching courage with which those brave martyrs +met their fate, only pleading with their murderers that they too +should renounce their idols and worship the living God.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As in the early days of the Church, so now, homes were +divided: the believing wife was beaten by her heathen husband, +children were driven from their parents’ roofs, and friends were +turned to foes—all in the name of the gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Those who worshipped the Saviour were distinguished by the +name of Bure Atua (from <i>bure</i>, to pray, and <i>Atua</i>, God).</p> + +<p class='c008'>In spite of the persecution, their numbers steadily increased, and +at last three of the principal chiefs of Tahiti, who had hitherto +been sworn foes, resolved to unite their forces for the total annihilation +of the Bure Atua sect. A midnight meeting was appointed +when the conspirators were suddenly to fall on their sleeping, +unsuspecting neighbours, and slaughter great and small. Happily, +a few hours before the massacre was to have taken place, the Christians +received a secret hint of what was in store for them, and +were able to reach the shore, launch their canoes, and sail for +Eimeo. When, at the midnight hour, their foes reached the +trysting-place, and found their victims flown, their rage knew no +bounds, and angry recriminations commenced, which soon passed +on to blows, ending in a free fight, in which one of the principal +chiefs was killed, and his followers compelled to fly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In those turbulent days, it needed but a beginning to kindle a +fierce war, and so it now proved. The heathen tribes having fallen +out amongst themselves, seemed to forget their enmity to the Christians, +and fought blindly among themselves. Beautiful and richly +cultivated districts were reduced to desolation, houses burnt and +property plundered, and numbers of the vanquished fled to Eimeo, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_304'>304</span>to join the king and his party. Finally the weaker tribes fled to +rocky fortresses in the mountains, leaving one tribe—the Oropaa—masters +of the whole island.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These presently sent messengers to those who had taken refuge +in Eimeo, inviting them to return to their homes in Tahiti. This +they agreed to do; but, according to native custom, King Pomare +accompanied them to reinstate them in their lands. With him +came a very large train of followers, who were chiefly Christians, +and when they approached the shore of Tahiti, the pagan party +refused to let them land. However, that point was yielded.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On the following Sunday, about 800 of the king’s party assembled +for divine worship. Happily they had taken the precaution +of assembling armed, for in the middle of service a firing of +muskets was heard, and a large body of men, bearing the flags of +the gods, and all emblems of idolatry, were seen marching towards +the place where they were assembled. Very striking is the story +of that day’s contest. When the enemy was seen approaching, +King Pomare arose and bade all remember that they were under +the special protection of Jehovah, and that, having met to worship +Him, they must not be diverted from their purpose. So all stood +up to sing the accustomed hymn, then knelt in united prayer. +They then formed themselves into three columns, the women +taking their place among the men, resolved, like them, to fight +with spear and musket. Thus they awaited the attack of the foe. +The battle-field was a strip of ground between the sea and the +mountains, covered with patches of brushwood. Under cover of +these, the Christians again and again throughout the day knelt by +twos and by threes to crave the help of the Almighty. After some +hours of desperate fighting, Upufara, the highest chief of the +heathen, was killed. His party were so disheartened that a panic +seized them, and they fled from the field, never pausing till they +reached their strongholds in the mountains.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thus the king’s party remained in undisputed possession, and +prepared, as in old days, to follow up their victory. But King +Pomare had learnt a new lesson in war. He forbade any of his +people to pursue the vanquished, or to enter their villages, either +<span class='pageno' id='Page_305'>305</span>to plunder the gardens or molest their wives and families. He, +however, selected a trustworthy force, and bade them march to +Tautira, to the temple of Oro, and totally destroy both temple and +idol, and everything connected with the old worship. At eventide +he bade the chiefs call together the congregation which had been +so ruthlessly disturbed in the morning, and all knelt together in +solemn thanksgiving for their great deliverance from so strong a +foe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The party whom he had despatched on so righteous a mission of +destruction, carried out his orders implicitly. They turned neither +to the right hand nor the left, till they reached Tautira, where +they fully expected that the priests and people would make a stand +in defence of their gods. They, however, met with no opposition +from the crowds, who stood silently round while they entered the +temple, hitherto held so sacred, and bringing out the idol, stripped +him of his coverings, and exposed a rude unhewn log, about six +feet long, of casuarina wood. Having utterly destroyed the temples, +altars, and other idols, they carried off the rude log which for so +many years had been the national god of Tahiti, and for the possession +of which the land had, during the last thirty years, been made +desolate by incessant wars. It was now turned to better use as a +post in the king’s kitchen from which to suspend baskets of food. +Eventually it was cut up for firewood.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The effect of the king’s clemency to the vanquished was magical. +At first it seemed to them utterly incomprehensible; but when, +under cover of night, some ventured from their hiding-places, and +found their homes and families all undisturbed, and learnt that the +bodies of the slain had received honourable burial, instead of being +given to the dogs and pigs, and that the king had proclaimed a +free pardon to all, then one by one they came down from the +mountains to tender their submission to the merciful conqueror, +and to learn from him the secret of such new principles. Then +they agreed that the faith which inspired such deeds was assuredly +the best, and with one accord they determined to destroy all their +idols, and desired that the king would send messengers to instruct +them in the good way.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_306'>306</span>Accordingly, those who had themselves been most diligent in +learning, were sent to teach these new inquirers, and proved faithful +and earnest in their work. But so great was the demand for +teachers, that they were altogether unable to meet it; and in many +a remote village, the people, having destroyed their idol temple, +built a new house of prayer, where they met together to worship +the God of the Christians, concerning whom they as yet knew +so little, beyond the mercy practised by His followers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From this time forward, Christianity made steady progress; and +when, in the year 1817, Mr Ellis arrived as a missionary in these +isles, he found almost the entire population professing it, and +apparently devout in their practice. Family worship was established +in all the principal houses; and many had built in their +gardens a small oratory, or, as they called it, <i>fare bure huna</i>—the +house for hidden prayer.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Already the grosser crimes of heathenism had been abandoned—especially +the practice of infanticide, which had prevailed to so +frightful an extent. In every district the schools were crowded, +and those who had mastered the arts of reading and writing +assisted in teaching those less advanced. Strange pictures presented +themselves in these classes, where bright, intelligent children +were often the instructors of aged men and women, priests and +warriors, to whom learning was a hard task, but one which they +were determined to master, that they might read for themselves +the wonderful book which had taught such wisdom to their king.</p> + +<p class='c008'>These were in truth earnest scholars. The only books that had +as yet reached them, were a spelling-book, printed in England, and +a summary of the Old and New Testaments, printed at Port Jackson. +But of these there were few copies: and many of the people, +in their anxiety to possess one, had prepared sheets of fine paper-mulberry +fibre, on which, with a reed-pen, dipped in the sap of the +banana-tree, they had carefully copied out whole pages of the +reading-lessons, or fragments of the sacred Scriptures. Others had +committed the whole to memory.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Great, therefore, was their excitement and delight when Mr +Ellis arrived at Afareaitu, bringing with him a good printing-press. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_307'>307</span>Crowds besieged the printing-office day and night, to +watch the progress of setting up the types,—the king himself +preparing the first alphabet. His delight when the first sheet +was struck off, equalled that of his people; and all felt that it +was a marked day in the history of Tahiti, when her king, with +his own hands, printed the first page of the first book published in +the South Sea Isles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The binding of the volumes was the next interest. The supply +of millboard was small; but again the fibre of the paper-mulberry +was turned to account, several layers being pressed together to +form a stiff pasteboard, which was then coloured with the purple +dye obtained from the mountain-plantain; or else thin wooden +boards were used, and covered with the skin of whatever animal +could be procured,—goat, cat, or dog: and the new art of tanning +was among the earliest industries of the isle.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Hitherto all books circulated in the isles had been distributed +gratuitously, but it was deemed wiser for every reason, henceforth +to exact a small payment in cocoa-nut oil, which was the article +most easily obtained by the people. So great was their anxiety to +purchase the books, that there were sometimes as many as thirty +or forty canoes drawn up on the beach, having come from different +remote villages, and having each brought several persons, whose +sole object was to procure the precious volume, not only for themselves, +but for others. Some who were thus commissioned, were +the bearers of huge bundles of green plantain-leaves, each rolled +up like a parchment scroll, and being, in fact, a written order for a +copy of the book, payment for which was sent in the form of a +bamboo measure filled with oil. Many of these messengers waited +for several weeks ere the copies could be supplied; and some of +the more urgent refused to leave the mission premises till the +books were delivered to them, lest other men should slip in before +them and carry off the coveted treasures.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When we consider that teachers were so few, and worshippers +so numerous, and that many large congregations assembled in the +chapels they had built for Christian prayer, firmly believing that +HE in whose name they had met, was there present; yet having +<span class='pageno' id='Page_308'>308</span>none to lead their worship, save, perhaps, a newly converted priest +of Oro, or a professional dancer, hitherto sunk in every form of +vice,—we can the better understand the extreme anxiety of the +people to possess the books which were the storehouses of excellent +knowledge.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Have you ever realised the innumerable difficulties under which +these early publishers had to contend? To begin with, they had +themselves to reduce barbarous and hitherto unknown tongues to a +written language,—no easy matter, considering that many of these +dialects are so rich as to possess far more words to express shades +of meaning than any European language.<a id='r62'></a><a href='#f62' class='c017'><sup>[62]</sup></a> So, beginning with the +alphabet, they had to work out equivalents for words in which the +slightest change of accent conveys totally different meanings; then +they had to puzzle out very intricate grammatical structures, and, +having mastered all this, had to commence the very difficult work +of translating so large a book as the Bible—a book, moreover, +treating of spiritual truths which it was hard indeed to render +comprehensible to such very materialistic minds as these.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Yet in the short space of about thirty years, the Scriptures have +been translated into about twenty different languages, all previously +unknown; and there is not one group throughout Polynesia, the +people of which do not now read the Scriptures in their own +tongue. The same good work is now gradually extending throughout +Melanesia also; and even New Guinea, which, ten years ago, +was an unknown land, has already received portions of the New +Testament in the language spoken by at least one of its tribes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Considering the extremely volatile nature of these light-hearted +people, the exceeding earnestness with which they seem to have +entered into the requirements of a spiritual religion, is very remarkable. +They had, however, been early trained to a belief +in the necessity of whole-hearted attention, and reverence in the +worship of their idols. It mattered not how large and costly +might be the offerings, and how careful the ceremonial, should +the priest omit, or even misplace, any word in the appointed +prayers, or should his attention be diverted, the prayer was unavailing; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_309'>309</span>other victims must be brought, and the whole ceremony +repeated from the beginning.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So, too, the rigid observance of the Jewish Sabbatical laws +seemed a natural requirement to a people who, from their infancy, +had been taught implicit obedience to the laws of <i>tabu</i>, or sacred +seasons, when, at the bidding of priest or chief, no fire must be +kindled, no canoe launched, and neither food nor drink might be +tasted, under severest penalties. When, therefore, the early missionaries +declared one day in seven to be strictly <i>tabu</i>, and themselves +gave the example by abstaining from every sort of secular +employment, even preparing their own food on the previous day +(which was hence called the <i>mahana maa</i>, or food-day), the natives +willingly obeyed, and proved themselves capable of such close and +continuous attention to spiritual subjects as the majority of Christians +nowadays would find wellnigh impossible.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So, too, with the custom of saying grace before eating, which is +so strictly practised by all the converts in Polynesia. It was the +more readily adopted because, in heathen days, no morsel might +pass the lips of any member of the family till the chief person +present had offered a portion to the gods, adding a few words of +prayer for their protection and blessing. In some instances they +chanted a form of thanksgiving for the good things received, as +being the gift of the gods.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I have written this story of old days somewhat at length, from +a conviction that it is probably almost unknown to you, and must +surely prove interesting, though I am fully aware that it cannot be +so to you in the same degree as it is to me, who have heard the +story for the first time on the very spot where those terrible scenes +were formerly enacted, and where the marvellous change was actually +wrought.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_310'>310</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXI.<br> <span class='c009'>A HEALING TREE—PLANTATION LIFE—VANILLA CROPS—CAT-AND-DOG LIFE—A FOILED ASSASSIN—THE TROPICS OF TO-DAY—ENGLAND IN DAYS OF YORE—AMONG THE CRAGS—INFANTICIDE—HEATHEN DAYS.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Madame Brun, Papetoai</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Monday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Another long day in scenes of dream-like loveliness. Early as +I always awaken, the little trio were astir before me, waiting in +their bathing-dresses to escort me to the shore, dancing joyously +as sunbeams, and most carefully pioneering my path through the +shallow water, so as to avoid the very unpleasant chance of treading +on sea-hedgehogs and other spiny creatures. There are so very +few places in the isles where sea-bathing is altogether free from +danger of sharks, that it is a luxury on which we rarely venture, +and therefore appreciate it all the more.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Immediately after early chocolate, a friendly gendarme lent me +his horse (I had brought my own saddle), and, not without +some cowardly qualms, I rode off alone in search of Madame +Valles’s plantation. The road lay along the shore—a lovely grass +path, overshadowed by all manner of beautiful trees, of which the +most conspicuous is here called the <i>tamanu</i>, an old acquaintance +with a new name. In Fiji it is called <i>ndelo</i>. It is common not +only throughout Polynesia but also in the East Indies, and in +Mauritius.<a id='r63'></a><a href='#f63' class='c017'><sup>[63]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>In all these lands this noble tree grows and flourishes, just +above high-water mark, on what seems to us the most arid +sandy shores, and outstretches its wide branches with their rich +dark foliage, casting cool delicious shadows on the dazzling coral-sands, +a boon to tired eyes, weary of the mid-day glare.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is a tree for the healing of the nations. Its large glossy +leaves, when soaked in fresh water, are valuable in reducing inflammation +of the eyes; and its round green fruit contains a small +grey ball, within which lies a kernel, which yields about sixty per +<span class='pageno' id='Page_311'>311</span>cent of a green-coloured bitter oil, worth about £90 a ton in the +Anglo-Indian market. It is an invaluable remedy as a liniment in +all forms of rheumatism, rheumatic fever, bruises, stiffness, and +similar ailments. Throughout the isles its virtues are fully recognised, +but it is only prepared in small quantities for domestic use, +and stored by prudent householders, in hollow gourds, which are +the correct substitute for bottles. The labour of expressing the oil, +by any hand process, is so great as to prevent an extensive manufacture; +and I am not aware that any machinery for this purpose +has found its way to the Pacific, though it does seem a pity that +so valuable a product should be wasted, as it now is.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Wherever we go, in any of these isles, the sea-beach is strewn +with myriads of these, and other seeds, some of which, such as the +gigantic climbing-bean,<a id='r64'></a><a href='#f64' class='c017'><sup>[64]</sup></a> have been washed down by the mountain +streams; while others, such as these grey balls, and the curious +square-shaped seeds of the Barringtonia, in their outer case of +nature-woven fibre, drop from the boughs which overhang the sea. +The white blossom of the <i>tamanu</i> trees is both fragrant and ornamental, +and many a pleasant hour have I spent on many a lovely +isle, alone (save for the omnipresent army of hermit-crabs) beneath +the shade of these grand trees, beside the cool blue waters of the +Pacific.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I had no difficulty in finding Madame Valles’s home—a lovely +nest, perched high on the hillside, with a background of grey rock-pinnacles +and crags. The house is embowered in greenery, and +from its verandahs you look through a frame of pure scarlet +hybiscus to the bluest of lagoons, divided from the purply ocean +beyond by the line of gleaming white breakers which bound the +coral-reef.</p> + +<p class='c008'>M. Valles is at present very unwell, and quite a prisoner, so +double work falls to the lot of Madame Valles, who has to do most +of her own cooking and house-work, milk her own cow, and attend +with unwearied care to that most precarious of all crops, vanilla. So +you see that even in Moorea plantation life is not luxurious.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The great difficulty here is to obtain labour; and there is not +<span class='pageno' id='Page_312'>312</span>one regular servant or labourer on this estate. Fifteen acres of +coffee have all run wild, and grown into tall straggling bushes, +from total lack of hands to tend it. As there is no one to +gather the crop of ripe red coffee cherries, they are left to drop, +and the rats eat the soft fruit, leaving the beans untouched; so +the family collect these, all ready pulped, and devoutly wish the +rats were ten times as numerous.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the most precious crop here is vanilla, which is both pretty +and lucrative, being worth about four dollars a pound. It is a luxuriant +creeper, and grows so freely that a branch broken off and falling +on the ground takes root of its own accord; and it climbs all +over the tall coffee shrubs, the palms, <i>avocat</i> pear and orange trees, +and everything that comes in its way, growing best on living wood, +the tendrils thence deriving sustenance. It also flourishes best in +unweeded grounds, the roots being thereby kept cool.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So the steep wooded hillside is densely matted with this fragrant +spice, which scents the whole air,—indeed the atmosphere of the +house is redolent of vanilla. It is like living in a spice-box, as the +pods are laid to dry in every available corner. They must be +gathered unripe, and dried in a moist warm place; sometimes they +are packed under layers of quilts to prevent them from bursting, +and so losing their fragrant essence.</p> + +<p class='c008'>All this sounds very pleasant, and only suggests light work, yet +in truth this cultivation involves most exhausting toil. The plant +is an exotic; it lives in these isles by the will of the planter, not +by nature’s law. In its native home exquisite humming-birds +hover over its blossoms, therein darting their long bills in search of +honey, and drawing them forth, clogged with the golden pollen, +which they carry to the next flower, thus doing nature’s work of +fertilisation.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here the flowers have no such dainty wooers, and the vanilla bears +no fruit unless fertilised by human hand. So M. and Madame +Valles, and their son, divide the steep hillside into three sections, +and each morning they patiently but wearily toil up and down, up +and down, again, and again, and again, in order to manipulate each +blossom that has expanded during the night. “Faire le mariage +<span class='pageno' id='Page_313'>313</span>des fleurs,” as Madame Valles describes her daily task, is no sinecure; +it must be done during the hottest hours of the day, when +any exertion is most exhausting. It needs a keen eye to detect +each fresh blossom, and any neglected flower withers and drops. +Each day the ripening pods must be gathered, and in dry weather +the plants require frequent watering—an indescribable toil.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This morning Madame Valles let me accompany her on her +morning rounds, whereby I realised that toil and hardship are to +be found even in paradise.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We returned to breakfast, which was served by an old French +soldier—a garrulous old fellow, and evidently quite a “character.” +Apparently his life is a burden to him, by reason of the multitude +of half-tamed animals which swarm about the place. In the +dining-room were three old and six young cats; two large, three +medium, and many small dogs,—all hungrily clamouring for food, +and only kept off the table by the free use of a large, resounding +whip.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the afternoon M. Brun came in search of me, and we rode to +the head of the bay, where there is a beautiful estate, and large +comfortable house, built many years ago by an English planter, who +failed, and the place was bought by Dr Michelli, an Italian, who +chanced just then to be conveying a cargo of Chinese coolies to +Peru. So many died on the voyage that he determined to halt at +Tahiti, and give the survivors time to recruit. Finding this very +desirable property in the market, he concluded that the part of +wisdom was to go no further. So here he settled with about fifty +Chinamen, who work the land and give him a third of the profits, +while he rides about the mountains, and shoots wild cattle for their +common use.</p> + +<p class='c008'>His surroundings are somewhat polyglot. The cook is an Englishman; +servants of various degree are Tahitian; while the overseer, +M. Bellemare, is a French <i>externe-politique</i>, who was exiled for +firing at the late Emperor Louis Napoléon—a crime which the +Emperor seems to have punished on the Biblical principle of heaping +coals of fire, in the form of unmerited reward; for during his +lifetime M. Bellemare received a regular pension and lived on the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_314'>314</span>fat of the land—a clemency which certainly failed to awaken one +thrill of gratitude in the would-be assassin. The pension having +expired with the death of the Emperor, M. Bellemare has been +obliged to seek remunerative occupation, which he has here +found.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Tuesday, 11th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Again a delightful sea-bathe, followed by real French chocolate, +and then the charming little trio constituted themselves my guides, +and led me by difficult, and to me undiscernible paths, over the +wooded hills, and through <i>la brousse</i>, which consists of dense +guava scrub, to various points, from which we obtained lovely +views of the harbour. The walk involved an amount of severe +scrambling which, even to me, was somewhat trying; but the +children skipped along over rock and crag like young kids, only +pausing, with charmingly pretty manners, to see if I required their +aid, and bringing me all manner of treasures of fruit and flowers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I fear no description can possibly convey to your mind a true +picture of the lovely woods through which we wander just where +fancy leads us, knowing that no hurtful creature of any sort lurks +among the mossy rocks or in the rich undergrowth of ferns. Here +and there we come on patches of soft green turf, delightfully suggestive +of rest, beneath the broad shadow of some great tree with +buttressed roots; but more often the broken rays of sunlight gleam +in ten thousand reflected lights, dancing and glancing as they shimmer +on glossy leaves of every form and shade—from the huge silky +leaves of the wild plantain or the giant arum, to the waving palm-fronds, +which are so rarely at rest, but flash and gleam like polished +swords as they bend and twist with every breath of air.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It has just occurred to me that probably you have no very +distinct idea of the shape of a cocoa-palm leaf, which does not +bear the slightest resemblance to the palmettos in the greenhouse. +It consists of a strong mid-rib, about eight feet long, which, at the +end next to the tree, spreads out, very much as your two clenched +fists, placed side by side, do from your wrists. The other end +tapers to a point. For a space of about two feet the stalk is bare; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_315'>315</span>then along the remaining six feet a regiment of short swords, +graduated from two feet to eighteen inches in length, are set close +together on each side of the mid-rib. Of course the faintest stir +of the leaf causes these multitudinous swordlets to flash in the +sunlight. Hence the continual effect of glittering light, and also +the extreme difficulty of securing a good photograph of a cocoa-palm.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A little lower than these tall queens of the coral-isles, rise fairy-like +canopies of graceful tree-ferns, often festooned with most delicate +lianas; and there are places where not these only, but the +larger trees, are literally matted together by the dense growth of +the beautiful large-leaved white convolvulus, or the smaller lilac +ipomæa, which twines round the tall stems of the palms, and overspreads +the light fronds, like some green waterfall. Many of the +larger trees are clothed with parasitic ferns; huge bird’s-nest ferns +grow in the forks of the branches, as do various orchids, the dainty +children of the mist, so that the stems are wellnigh as green as +everything else in that wilderness of lovely forms. It is a very +inanimate paradise, however. I rarely see any birds or butterflies, +only a few lizards and an occasional dragon-fly; and the voice of +singing-birds, such as gladden our hearts in humble English woods, +is here mute—so we have at least this compensation, for the lack +of all the wild luxuriance which here is so fascinating.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I wonder if a time will ever come when these fairy isles shall +have passed through changes as marvellous as those which geologists +teach us to trace in Old England.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Have you ever fully realised that “once upon a time” all the +strange beautiful plants which we call tropical, were growing in +rank luxuriance on English soil? I believe that the curious +diapered stem of the quaint papawa is one of our common fossil +forms. In Dr Buckland’s museum at Oxford, I remember seeing +unmistakable fruit of a screw-pine (pandanus) found in the Oolite, +near Charmouth. As to the London Clay, the Isle of Sheppey +seems wholly composed of relics of tropical plants, turtles, serpents, +and shells, now unknown save in these warm isles. I have seen +a drawing of the section of a fossil fruit found there, which might +<span class='pageno' id='Page_316'>316</span>have been made from a split bread-fruit; also nuts greatly resembling +those of the cocoa and areca palms. The custard-apple +is found there, and the dracæna and yucca, and many another +tropical leaf and fruit. Would that they grew there now!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Picture to yourself a time when the bleak Northumbrian coast +was a forest like one of these, and the coals, of which we now so +gladly heap up blazing fires, were all beautiful ferns and palms, +waving in the warm sunlight! Truly it is hard to realise. Even +the dragon-flies and lizards of those antediluvian forests are preserved, +and spiders and scorpions. As to the chalk and lias and +limestone, they give us sponges and corals and zoophytes enough +to build up any number of coral-reefs; and there are great turban +echini with heavy spines, like those we find here, and star-fish +innumerable, and teeth and vertebræ of sharks and ray.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So that there really was a time when Old England must have +been as fascinating as any South Sea isle. What she may have +been in the days of the mammoth and megatherium, and all the +gruesome race, restored for our edification at the Crystal Palace, is +quite another matter; the very idea is suggestive of nightmare!</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 12th Dec.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This has been a grey stormy day, with heavy showers, but as +Dr Michelli had promised to escort me up the valley to the foot of +the mighty crags, I could not lose so good an opportunity; and +indeed such solemn mountain scenes only borrow fresh grandeur +from the gloom, so that I almost prefer a stormy leaden sky for +such an expedition; besides, it is no small gain to have a veiled +sun, as its full rays, when refracted by the black trap dikes, make +the ascent somewhat of a toil.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The friendly gendarme again lent me his horse to ride to the +head of the harbour, where the Doctor had other steeds ready for +the mountain. Unfortunately he himself was unwell, and so was +obliged to commit me to the care of the <i>externe-politique</i>, who fulfilled +his trust admirably, though I confess that it gave me something +of an eerie feeling to find myself at a height of 2000 feet +<span class='pageno' id='Page_317'>317</span>above my fellow-men, sitting quietly sketching among black crags +and floating mists, alone with a would-be murderer, who, glorying +in his shame, entertained me at great length with a most animated +description of the whole story, nor spared me one of his poignant +regrets at the failure of his vile attempt.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The scenery on every side was magnificent. Huge indigo-coloured +mountain-masses looming out awfully through the floating +cloud-wreaths—tremendous precipices—deep mysterious ravines—right +above me towered a gigantic square-shaped mountain, and +beyond it one vast pinnacle. You never can lose the impression +of cyclopean fortifications and watch-towers. The higher ridges +are absolutely inaccessible; but adventurous cragsmen sometimes +find their way by tracks which wild goats would shun—narrow +ledges by which they can creep along the face of a precipice, and +so pass on to another ravine, or scramble from ledge to ledge with +the help of ropes. “Le jeu vaut-il la chandelle?” I should +say not.</p> + +<p class='c008'>From the highest point we reached, I obtained a grand view of +the valley, which lay bathed in sunlight, while we were shrouded +in mountain gloom, with a storm fast gathering overhead. Far +below us, beyond the orange-groves and the cultivated lands, lay +the two harbours, Pao Pao and Opunohu—two calm lagoons lying +to right and left of a mighty rock-pyramid, which is crowned with +trap ridges, so narrow as here and there to have altogether worn +away, leaving arches and apertures through which the sky is seen, +as through the eye of a needle. This is a common feature of the +ridges which form the centre of this strange isle, and which are +thus pierced in many places—a phenomenon duly accounted for +in Tahitian legends by the spear-thrusts of certain demigods and +heroes.</p> + +<p class='c008'>A few heavy rain-drops, with a prospect of abundance to follow, +compelled me to abandon this splendid sketching-ground, and +return to the lower world, where the Doctor awaited my return, +to share an excellent breakfast, with all the delicacies of Moorea. +One of these, which is perhaps unknown to you, is the Abercarder +pear, or, as it is called in India, “subaltern’s butter,” a pear-shaped +<span class='pageno' id='Page_318'>318</span>fruit, the size of a big man’s fist. Within its green rind lies the +softest melting pulp, really like vegetable butter, with a large round +seed in the centre. This fruit is either eaten with pepper and salt, +or else beaten up with lemon-juice and sugar; and it is excellent +in either form. The chief difficulty is to secure it, as all animals +have a passion for it; cows, horses, even dogs and cats, watch for +the falling of the ripe fruit, and quickly despatch it.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After breakfast I rode back here, and found my host and hostess +just starting for the village, so I strolled along with them to see +the big coral church, memorable as having been the first built in +this group, a monument of early zeal, and a wonderful triumph of +will over difficulties. But now, whether from diminished energy +or decreased population I know not, the place is falling into disrepair, +and suggests retrogression.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But the bird-cage homes of the people are charming, and the +inmates are charming, and the brown-eyed olive-coloured babies, +and their most careful little brothers and sisters, are especially +attractive. To-day I have seen the loveliest baby I have ever yet +met with. Of Italian and Tahitian parentage, it receives a double +heritage of beauty, and the little Aurora is destined hereafter to +take her place among the fairest maidens of Italy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Certainly children here have a very happy time of it. What +with idolising parents, and friends who seem always ready to play +with them, their only danger lies on the side of excessive spoiling. +And yet, in heathen days, the Tahitians were as noted for infanticide +as the Sandwich Islanders,—with the one difference that here, +the poor little unwelcome guests were disposed of at the very +moment of their birth, and if spared for even a few minutes they +were generally saved; whereas in Hawaii, the system of child-murder +was much more deliberate.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The extent to which it was practised in both groups makes one +marvel how the isles failed to be wholly depopulated. Though +offspring were generally numerous, few parents cared to rear more +than three children; a man with four was looked upon as a <i>taata +taubuu buu</i>—that is, a man with a heavy burden. The majority +of Tahitian women in pagan days spoke openly, and without the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_319'>319</span>slightest shame, of having put to death half-a-dozen helpless innocents, +while some confessed to ten or twelve; and when the missionaries +and their wives implored these women to spare their little +ones, yet unborn, their words were heard with derision, and the +cruel mothers would return to boast how they had obeyed the +custom of the isles, in defiance of white men’s counsel.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Afterwards, when these same women had become Christians, +they would come to the school festivals, at which were sometimes +gathered several hundred happy children, whose lives had been +spared in obedience to a better law; and often, with bitter tears, +did these childless mothers bewail their own dead offspring, +murdered by their own hands. At one such meeting, a venerable +chief arose to address the people, and show, by contrast with the +past, how great was their present gain. Pointing to a troop of +comely lads and lasses, he said: “Large was my family, but I alone +remain. I am the father of nineteen children; all of them I have +murdered: now my heart longs for them. Had I spared them, +they would now have been men and women, knowing the word of +the true God. But all died in the service of the false gods, and +now my heart is repenting—is weeping for them.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>One of the chief women, who, having learnt to read at the age +of sixty, had proved a most useful school teacher, was bitterly +troubled in the hour of death by the thought of her sixteen children, +every one of whom she had herself put to death. But there was +scarcely a woman who had attained middle age ere the spread of +Christianity, who was not haunted by the same sad memories; and +one visitor to Tahiti has recorded his amazement when, on his +expressing his belief that statements had been exaggerated, his +friend appealed to three most respectable, motherly-looking women, +who chanced to be sitting in the room quietly sewing, and quite at +random, asked each in turn how many of her children she had +killed. With shame and evident pain, the first, with faltering +voice, replied, “I have destroyed nine;” the second said she had +killed five; the third had killed seven. So that these three women +casually selected, had killed twenty-one children!</p> + +<p class='c008'>It seems scarcely credible that such deeds were perpetrated by +<span class='pageno' id='Page_320'>320</span>the same race whom we now see so gentle and loving; but heathenism +always tended to cruelty.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In nothing was this more apparent than in the treatment of the +sick. Generally speaking, the best a sick man could hope for was +simple neglect. As soon as it was evident that his illness would +be protracted, a hut of cocoa-palm leaves was built for him at a little +distance, and he was carried there. For a while he was supplied +with food and drink; but his friends soon grew careless, and so +often forgot him, that he very probably died of starvation. Should +he be possessed of property coveted by his neighbours, he was +very likely murdered with the most wanton barbarity. His +“friends” having determined on his death, proceeded to his hut, +armed with their spears; and, unheeding of his cries for mercy, +they treated him as a target, trying who could take best aim, till +at length some one, more merciful than the others, rushed in and +pierced him through the heart.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At other times the sick were buried alive. Their relations dug +a pit, and then, pretending that they would carry the sufferer to +the river to bathe, they threw him into the ready-made grave, and +drowned his cries by quickly throwing in stones and earth. Sometimes +the victim perceived what was in store for him, and endeavoured +to escape; but he was invariably captured by his +murderers, and carried to his untimely grave.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Almost the first great change wrought by Christianity was in the +care of the sick, who now are nursed with the utmost tenderness, +the natives having, many years ago, formed themselves into societies +for the express purpose of building houses, where the aged and +helpless, who have no friends or children to tend them at home, +may be fed and clothed, and comforted by the ministrations of +Christian teachers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In one respect, the people of Tahiti, like those of Samoa, proved +superior to most other Pacific islanders. There is no evidence +of their having ever been cannibals. While their neighbours in +the Paumotus and the Marquesas, in the Hervey Isles and New +Zealand, and in nearly every group throughout the Western Pacific, +never lost a chance of feasting on human flesh, these gentler savages, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_321'>321</span>like those of Samoa, do not seem to have been tempted by the +hideous fare. They contented themselves with heaping insult on +the bodies of the slain, which were often brutally mutilated.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nothing amazes me more than to hear travellers and others +occasionally talk with positive regret of the work of missionaries of +all denominations, throughout these various groups of isles. To +hear them speak, you would suppose that the natives, in their +untutored state, were the most innocent, loving, and attractive of +mortals. Surely such men can know nothing of the past, and of +the dangers incurred by the early teachers, to whose earnest labours +in the beginning of the present century those ungrateful talkers +owe their own present safety. But even in those days the worst +dangers and the most virulent opposition encountered by the missionaries +were almost invariably stirred up by iniquitous white men—generally +sailors and shipmasters.<a id='r65'></a><a href='#f65' class='c017'><sup>[65]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>Certainly the Tahitians, as we now see them, are as gentle and +affectionate as it is possible for a people to be. Most kind and +hospitable, always cheerful and good-natured, easily pleased and +amused, finding matter for mirth in every trifle; so that angry +words or recriminations are rarely heard, but rather a sound of +rippling laughter, which seems here to pervade the very air. A +messenger is just going across to Tahiti to take letters, and to fetch +any that may have arrived by the schooner from San Francisco. I +shall send this as a postscript to my last, which will probably +reach you at the same time.—So good-bye.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Your Loving Sister.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_322'>322</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXII.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE ON MOOREA—AN ANCIENT PLACE OF SACRIFICE—ARRIVAL OF H.M.S. SHAH—HOSPITALITIES ON LAND AND WATER.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>French Mission, Papetoai</span>, <i>Saturday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This has been a glorious day of unclouded sunlight, and in order +that I might enjoy it to the full, my kind hosts planned a family +picnic on the other side of the bay. There was no available boat, +only a tiny canoe, so we crossed in several detachments, till all +were safely landed on the opposite shore, where we established +ourselves beneath the shade of some noble iron-wood trees, whence +the view of towering mountains, laughing valley, and blue waters +was so entrancing, that I at once settled down to sketch, while +the little ones disported themselves in the shallow waters, therein +capturing small crabs, and sea-urchins, and many other treasures, +till the kindling of a fire, and preparation of our gipsy breakfast, +afforded them fresh occupation and delight.</p> + +<p class='c008'>What a pleasant feast they spread on the briny grass, and with +what hospitality they ministered to our numerous self-invited +guests, the hermit-crabs! Less welcome were the inevitable mosquitoes, +but to-day there was sufficient breeze to disperse them in a +great measure; and after breakfast we wandered along the shore, +and the strange lady from Beretania was introduced to the gentle +inmates of many a bird-cage home!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Oh dear, how fascinating is this simple, kindly, island life! +Each day leaves me more and more captivated by the loveliness of +these isles of paradise, where our eyes always rest on some scene of +beauty, wherever they turn. Each halting-place seems more charming +than the last, and the only sorrow is having to leave it, to pass +on to another, which in its turn becomes as attractive. Each week +makes me wonder more how I shall ever be able to settle down to +a humdrum existence in well-appointed English houses, with their +regiments of fine servants, and wearisome conventionalities of social +<span class='pageno' id='Page_323'>323</span>life! I vote that, instead of my having to do so, you should come +out here and learn what true enjoyment means.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But, alas! my days in Moorea are for the present drawing to a +close, for on our return this evening I found kind letters from Mrs +Brander and from the governor, M. D’Oncieue, telling me of the +arrival of H.M.S. Shah, and requesting that, as a good British subject, +I would hasten back to share in the festivities to be held in +her honour.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>A morning of peaceful delight on the silent shore, and a long +afternoon stroll by myself, to drink in deep draughts of never-to-be-forgotten +enjoyment, of one of the loveliest spots in all this fair +creation. We had planned various pleasant expeditions for this +week, but it seems best to defer them; so I am to leave my baggage +here to take its chance of following me, and I am to ride to +the other side of the island, whence it is probable that a boat may +go across to Papeete within a day or two.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Haapiti, Isle Moorea</span>, <i>Monday Night</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Bidding a provisional farewell to my charming hostess and my +little guides, I started in the fresh early morning, accompanied by +M. Brun. The whole ride was exquisite, though in places the +beautiful forest has suffered from ruthless carelessness, and many +splendid old iron-wood trees stand scathed and half-burnt by +accidental fires. On our arrival here, the big man of the village +welcomed us to his house, and gave us breakfast.</p> + +<p class='c008'>You may remember that it was at this place that Mrs Brander, +in her character of high chiefess of the isle, gave such a picturesque +welcome to the young king and queen. To-day the district was in +its normal condition of quiet—no crowds, no <i>himènes</i>, no feasting, +save and except the fatted fowl which perished on our arrival. +Only the natural beauty remained, unchanged and unsurpassable. +I cannot believe that even the Marquesas can be more beautiful, +nor yet the nearer isle of Bora-Bora, of which the Tahitians speak +as of a marvel of loveliness, with its towering rock-pinnacles and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_324'>324</span>lofty crags, so veiled with trailing vines as to resemble green +waterfalls.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After breakfast we got a canoe and rowed back for a considerable +distance along the shore to a fine old <i>marae</i>—an immense +platform of huge blocks of hewn coral, on a pyramidal base, which +in olden days was a heathen altar, and also a tomb. Close by it +are two smaller <i>marais</i> and a large sacrificial stone, enclosed by a +wall of small coral blocks. The whole place is overgrown by grand +old iron-wood trees (<i>casuarina</i>). After we had left it, we were +told of a stone image, four or five feet high, which has somehow +escaped the general destruction of its fellows; and I was very sorry +to have missed seeing so interesting a survivor of a past so recent +and yet so thoroughly extinguished.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This is the only <i>marae</i> I have seen, the majority having been +destroyed, together with the temples and the altars, when the +people, in the zeal of first love, endeavoured to sweep away every +trace of the old idolatry.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mr Ellis has recorded that one huge <i>marae</i> having been destroyed, +the natives used the stones composing it to build an +immense platform, on which was spread a great feast for all the +children of the school (both boys and girls, in number about 240) +and their parents. The point of interest lay in the fact that in +heathen times it would have been death for a girl or a woman to +set foot in the <i>marae</i>, or to taste the food which was there offered. +Indeed all the better sorts of food, such as pig and fowl, were +reserved exclusively for the men and the gods; and the fire with +which men’s food was cooked was also sacred; no woman dared to +use it—her simpler fare must be cooked apart, and eaten in a +separate hut. So a united festival, such as that held on the ruins +of the <i>marae</i>, was in every sense a Christian love-feast, and strangely +in contrast with the hideous scenes previously enacted on the +spot, when the coral walls were dyed with the blood of human +victims offered to the cruel war-gods, and where, in every crevice +of the noble old trees, were seen bleaching human bones, skeletons +hanging from the boughs, and beneath them, ghastly heaps of +skulls, generally those of warriors slain in battle.</p> +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/p3241_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic001'> +<p>ANCIENT MARAI AND BASALTIC NEEDLE.<br> ISLE MOOREA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_325'>325</span>These horribly unfragrant <i>marais</i> were also considered as family +mausoleums, where the dried bones of great men might safely be +deposited. Nevertheless, even the sanctity of the temple did not +always protect the dead from ruthless spoliation; and in times of +war the victors not only carried off the idols of the vanquished, +but also the bones of their relations, to be converted into chisels or +fish-hooks, which was considered the lowest depth of degradation.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To avoid this danger, the dead were laid in small houses apart, +and carefully watched, till the flesh fell from their bones, when +these were collected by a trusty hand, and carried to some safe +hiding-place in the mountains. In the case of any person of great +note, this custom is still observed, as I learnt on visiting the little +seaside chapel where old Queen Pomare was buried shortly before +my arrival; and I was told her bones had been secretly removed, +only three or four of her nearest kindred being aware of their +present hiding-place.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In olden days, however, a simple process of embalming was +practised, by means of which the wealthier families could preserve +their dead for about a year, not longer. The brain and intestines +having been removed, they were replaced by cloth saturated with +aromatic oils, which were also daily rubbed all over the corpse. +Every day it was placed in a sitting posture in the sun, that it +might gradually become dried up; and an altar was erected before +it, on which were daily offered fresh flowers, and fruit, and other +food. With this the relations or priests touched the lips of the +dead several times a day, for, like the Chinese, they averred that +the departed spirit came to feast on the spiritual essence<a id='r66'></a><a href='#f66' class='c017'><sup>[66]</sup></a> of the +gross meats.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Indeed the whole ceremony savours of Chinese custom. There +<span class='pageno' id='Page_326'>326</span>was the same passionate ceremonial wailing for the dead, the same +sort of religious service to appease the unquiet spirit, and prevent +it from returning to earth to annoy the survivors. In place of +burning paper effigies of horses, and houses, and other things likely +to be useful in the spirit-world, the Tahitian priest placed about +the corpse pieces of the stalk of the mountain-plantain, and told +the dead that these were its parents, its wife, its children, and that +with these it must be satisfied, and refrain from vexing the living.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here likewise, as in the Chinese cities of the dead, small low +houses were built as temporary homes for the unburied corpses, +which were laid on biers, and by day were drawn out into the sun; +but by night the body lay horizontally, and was frequently turned, +lest it should dry irregularly. When, notwithstanding all care, +the poor body began to decay, then the skull was wrapped in cloth, +and carried home to be preserved with the family gods, and duly +worshipped. The bones were either buried or carried off to the +mountains in the mysterious way I have already described.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Although the Tahitian embalmers failed to preserve their dead +for more than a year, the Samoans seem to have been more successful, +though, apparently, only a limited number of the chiefs were +thus honoured. Dr Turner, however, has seen bodies which had +certainly been embalmed for upwards of thirty years, and were still +in excellent preservation, when, on the death of the relations whose +task it was to dress and tend the bodies, all were laid together +beneath the sod. The office of embalmer was an exclusively +feminine one, and the process observed in Samoa was exactly the +same as that practised in Tahiti. The body was wrapped in native +cloth, leaving the head, face, and hands exposed; these were +occasionally anointed with scented oil and turmeric, to give a lifelike +tinge to the complexion, and so were exhibited to all comers.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I spoke of the wailing at funerals as ceremonial, because it was +not only customary to weep frantically, rending the hair, tearing +the garments, and uttering agonising cries, but it was also <i>de +rigueur</i> to display sympathy by inflicting on one’s self very serious +wounds with instruments made for the purpose. Several rows of +shark’s teeth were fixed in small canes, and with these the mourners +<span class='pageno' id='Page_327'>327</span>smote their breasts, their heads, even their faces. One of these +useful implements formed part of a girl’s bridal <i>trousseau</i>, that she +might be ready to take her part in whatever scene of sorrow or of +joy might present itself. For, strange to say, the same ceremonies +were observed, though in a less excessive degree, to mark great +happiness; and the safe return of a member of the family, or his +escape from danger, was, and still is, marked by the shedding of +what might be mistaken for bitter tears. Happily, however, the +horrible custom of cutting and bruising one’s own flesh is a thing +of the past; and friends no longer express sympathy with the +bereaved by giving them strips of <i>tappa</i> saturated in the blood +thus voluntarily shed, to be preserved as precious memorials of +affection!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The one pleasant feature connected with the <i>marais</i>, as with so +many forms of heathen worship, was the beautiful grove of old +trees which surrounded them. Different tribes adopted special +trees as clan badges, and planted these round their family shrines. +Thus some were overshadowed by huge banyan trees, others by the +noble <i>tamanu</i>, or native mahogany; and others, again, were distinguished +from afar by the gorgeous blossoms of the coral-tree,<a id='r67'></a><a href='#f67' class='c017'><sup>[67]</sup></a> +which dripped its blood-red petals on the altars below it. This +beautiful tree is almost imperishable; but unluckily it shared in +the fate of too many of those sacred temple trees, which were +ruthlessly cut down by the early converts, in their iconoclastic +zeal. Now the mournful casuarina (the <i>noko-noko</i> of Fiji), with +its dark hair-like drooping needles, is almost the only distinctive +foliage which marks the resting-place of the dead.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We lingered at this weird and horribly suggestive spot till the +evening, and as we rode back to Haapiti, the crags and pinnacles +towered in purple majesty against a background of luminous gold, +and one divided ray from the setting sun threaded the eye of the +great rock-needle. Later, when the moon had risen, we went to +the village to see the native minister, who is going to Papeete to-morrow, +and has agreed to give me a passage in his boat. We are +to start early, so I must now have a sleep. Besides, the mosquitoes +<span class='pageno' id='Page_328'>328</span>are troublesome, and the only refuge from them is beneath my +nets. So good-night.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>La Maison Rouge, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>December 18th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Once more I find myself “at home” beneath this hospitable +roof. We started at daybreak and rowed leisurely along the lovely +coast to Afareaitu (the place where I told you that Mr Ellis, the +early missionary, established his first printing-press). At a short +distance further we came to Nuupuru, where we landed to explore +another great <i>marae</i>, likewise overgrown with casuarina and palm-trees. +It stands on the coral-shore, which there, as in most parts +of the isles, is shaded by dark trees with widespreading branches. +Just behind this huge coral-altar, rises a gigantic rock-needle—a +cyclopean natural monolith, such as might have accounted for the +position of the altar, in lands where nature-worship prevailed, +which, however, does not appear to have been the case in these +isles.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here we left the friendly shelter of the reef and passed into the +outer ocean. Happily a fair breeze favoured us, and we entered +Papeete harbour soon after noon. Great was the amazement of +my native friends as they realised the huge proportions of H.M.S. +Shah, probably the largest ship ever seen in these waters. I +believe she weighs about 7000 tons. Certainly she makes all the +other vessels in harbour look like pigmies. The little Daring is +only 700 tons; Le Limier, 1000; and my trusty old ship Le +Seignelay, 2000. The Shah carries nearly 700 men and 50 +officers, so England is well represented. My boatman rowed +right under her bows, the better to estimate her vast size.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On landing, I found that Mrs Brander and all the family had +moved back to town on account of the arrival of so important a +vessel, which, of course, involves much work for the house of +Brander. I had just time to feed, change my dress, and accompany +my hostess to the palace to “assist” at the king’s state +reception of Admiral De Horsey and his suite, which, of course, +was as stiff as stiff could be. We had a pleasant evening, however, +at the band. Lovely full moonlight.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_329'>329</span><span class='sc'>The Red House</span>, <i>Friday, 21st</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Papeete is surpassing itself in its graceful hospitalities. On +Wednesday, M. D’Oncieue had a very large reception <i>au Gouvernement</i>, +and the French admiral’s band played “God save the +Queen” as the British admiral entered. To you, doubtless, that +conveys little, but to a stranger in a far land it means much. +To me, who had not heard the grand old air since I left Australia, +more than two years ago, it was most thrilling music, for you have +no idea how patriotic we become when we reach the antipodes!</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French and English bands played alternately the whole +night, and as all the ships were (for once) well represented, and +all the dancing world of Papeete present, in their happiest mood +and prettiest toilets, it was a most successful ball, and well kept +up. The lovely moonlight drew all the non-dancers to the gardens, +much to the edification of the crowds assembled outside the railing. +I found several pleasant acquaintances among the new-comers, +and many more proved to be “friends’ friends”—a title +which in these far countries means more than you dwellers in +overcrowded Britain can possibly be expected to understand, +though you may perhaps realise the unwonted pleasure of meeting +so many real English gentlemen.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The evening was far too beautiful for carriages, so the revellers +dispersed on foot, to walk home by bowery streets or peaceful shore.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Yesterday Mrs Brander gave us a startling proof of her skill in +organising, and of the resources at her command. At the governor’s +ball it suddenly occurred to her to invite all present to a +great native feast on the following day, at her country-home. At +daybreak she started to commence preparations, on a scale which, +in most hands, would have involved a week’s hard labour. Messengers +were despatched in every direction to collect fowls, turkeys, +sucking-pigs, vegetables, fruit, &c., &c. A party was told off to +build a green bower in which to spread the feast. Glass, crockery, +silver, and wines had to be brought from the Red House and the +store; for the ordinary service required for even so large a party as +habitually assemble at Fautawa would not go far among such a +multitude as were invited to this impromptu gathering.</p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_330'>330</span>Still the question was undecided how the guests were to amuse +themselves, as feeding could not last all the evening. Happily +Captain Bedford came ashore to see my portfolio, and I ventured +to ask if the band might come to Fautawa—a favour which was +cordially granted, and I was able to drive off to Fautawa as the +bearer of this excellent news. In less than no time, the large +drawing-room was cleared for dancing, the wide verandahs gaily +decorated with Chinese lanterns, and an admirable ball-room was +prepared. It was all like a transformation scene, and accomplished +so quietly. It would not be so remarkable in a large European +house, with a full complement of carefully drilled servants; but +here there really are no servants, properly so called, only friendly +“helps.” Certainly every one worked with a will on this occasion, +and all was ready ere the arrival of the first carriage, full of +middies.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The carriages, like everything else, bore testimony to Mrs +Brander’s thoughtful and generous care. She provided conveyance +for every one, from the English admiral and French governor +down to the smallest middy. Of course her own stable could not +supply the demand, so every available trap was hired, and plied to +and fro over the three miles, till all the guests were duly assembled. +You will allow that this was a truly Tahitian phase of +hospitality.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So also was the kind forethought which provided towels and a +new <i>pareo</i> for every guest who cared to bathe in the lovely river—an +invitation which few, if any, refused; so that a succession of +joyous parties soon found their way to all the best pools, and +therein revelled.</p> + +<p class='c008'>By the time the stragglers reassembled, a multitude of gay +wreaths had been prepared by the Tahitian maidens, and all the +guests were duly crowned. Some of the English officers were +slightly taken aback by this unwonted decoration, but all submitted +meekly; and we then marched in procession to the house +of feasting, which was erected on the softest green turf, not far +from the brook. It was a long building, consisting of a slight +framework of bamboos, just sufficiently strong to support a thatch +<span class='pageno' id='Page_331'>331</span>of plaited cocoa-palm leaves; while for pillars, strong young +bananas were transplanted bodily, their broad cool leaves making +a lovely canopy of freshest green. The golden leaves of the +dracæna were strung together to form deep fringes and festoons +along the rafters; while a still deeper fringe, carefully prepared +from the fibre of hybiscus bark, and dyed pale yellow, was festooned +all round the whole building. There must have been many +hundred yards of this. Just think of the labour of preparing it! +That, of course, had been done at leisure.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In lieu of a table-cloth, fresh green banana-leaves were spread +upon the grass down the centre of the building, and on these were +laid all manner of good things, in dishes made of plaited leaves. +Dainty little sucking-pigs, turkeys, and various preparations of +chicken, were, as usual, the foundation of the feast. These had +been brought in hot haste from Mrs Brander’s farm; while fish +and all manner of crustacea seemed to have arrived by magic from +the depths of the sea, the mountain streams, the mangrove-shore, +and the coral-reef—each had sent its contribution. The delicious +white <i>wurrali</i>, and their red relations, the cray-fish and lobsters, +were there—shrimps and prawns, living and cooked, to suit all +tastes. Raw fish and cooked fish, each with appropriate sauce; +shell-fish of various sorts, including the delicate little oysters from +the isthmus. Fruits of all sorts, mangoes and melons, strawberries, +oranges, and bananas; yams, <i>taro</i>, and <i>kumala</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, sweet potatoes—and +sundry other vegetables.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The obnoxious national drink of the South Seas, made from the +chewed root of <i>kava</i>, <i>alias</i> <i>yangona</i>, seems to have quite disappeared +in Tahiti, and sweet young cocoa-nuts supplied the only native +drink; but these were supplemented by many a brimming bumper +of the best foreign wines, and champagne flowed like water. +Thanks to the graceful unaffected courtesy with which Narii and +Ariipaea Salmon, and several of the ladies of the family, themselves +waited on all their guests, all went off admirably; every one was +well cared for, and mirth and laughter reigned on all sides. Some +of the naval guests, however, were not so well accustomed, as are +all the rest of us, to sitting curled up on the fine mats, which were +<span class='pageno' id='Page_332'>332</span>spread for the guests all round the leafy table; and so obviously +uncomfortable were some of the senior officers, that the kind-hearted +ladies took pity on their foreign friends, and brought piles +of cushions and pillows, to raise them; but as they could not raise +the tables also, I fear that some of the gentlemen must have voted +dining <i><span lang="fr">à l’indigène</span></i> rather a serious effort.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I should have mentioned that in “setting the table,” a pile of +large bread-fruit leaves are laid before each person to act as plates, +and to be changed as often as may be desired. Also, in lieu of +tumblers, wine-glasses, and cruet-stands, each guest is provided +with a half cocoa-nut shell, full of drinking water, and one of +milk, a third with chopped cocoa-nut, and a fourth with salt water. +The two latter are mixed together to make a sauce in which to dip +the good things that are coming. This done, the fourth shell is +filled with fresh water to act as a finger-glass. Half a bread-fruit, +nicely cooked, is laid beside each place in lieu of bread. I fear, if +I must confess the truth, that certain dainties in the way of creams +and jellies, and tipsy-cakes, such as were not common in Tahiti in +the days of Captain Cook, did find their way to our leafy bower, +and were by no means despised.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Afterwards the band took up a good position outside the house, +and a right merry dance ensued. As the gentlemen considerably +outnumbered the ladies, great satisfaction was expressed when two +very ladylike white girls suddenly arrived, robed in loose white +sacques, and of course crowned with flowers. These turned out to +be two of the middies, who kept up their part admirably throughout +the evening.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Shah musters a first-rate theatrical corps, and they say they +would gladly act for the amusement of their Tahitian friends, but +unfortunately their stay is too short to admit of any such ploy.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We are all going to lunch on board to-day.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Friday Evening.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We have had a very pleasant afternoon on the great ship. Soon +after twelve we joined the royal party, for whom the admiral’s +barge was waiting, the blue jackets receiving the king with uplifted +<span class='pageno' id='Page_333'>333</span>oars. (I believe “tossed” is the correct expression.) He +was treated throughout with full royal honours—twenty-one guns +on arrival and departure, yards manned, marines and crew on +parade, and all the officers in the agonies of full uniform, with +which, however, they soon contrived to dispense. I think that +as soon as Captain Bedford had got over his surprise at being +asked by the queen where she might smoke, he realised that gold +lace was superfluous! Tahitian ladies can never be happy for long +without their cigarettes, and the queen has recently received a +present of an enormous supply, which are fast disappearing in +faint films of smoke!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Our first introduction was to a large, very tame, black bear, +which the sailors captured as a baby on Vancouver’s Isle, and +which now plays with them like a very gentle big dog. It is a +much nicer beast than the Russian bears brought by the Limier.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We were formally conducted all over the huge ship, and duly +wondered at the length of the lower deck, with the row of great +guns on either side; in short, we felt exceedingly proud of our +British representative, and the French officers and their Peruvian +friends kindly abstained from invidious comments on the recent +“Huascar” affair, which had been freely discussed here before the +arrival of the giant Shah. Now all allusion to that pugnacious +little vessel was studiously avoided, and everything connected with +the big ship called forth a chorus of undivided admiration.</p> + +<p class='c008'>King Ariiaue was requested to touch an electric battery, and +quick as lightning a whole broadside went off. In like manner +Queen Marau fired a torpedo, which threw up the water in a +gigantic fountain. We went through the ward-room, the large +airy gun-room, and the officers’ daintily fitted-up cabins, exquisite +in their neatness. The admiral has a most charming bedroom, +drawing-room, and dining-room. In the latter we sat down to +luncheon, about twenty-four persons, including the commanders of +the other vessels.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When we returned on deck we found it transformed into a +brilliant ball-room, all draped with flags, and full of people from +Papeete. As we looked down from the upper decks and bridge, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_334'>334</span>a prettier scene could not be imagined. The dancing folk did +dance to their hearts’ content; and those who, like myself, hold +the Eastern creed, that all such hard work should be done by +proxy, held possession of the higher levels, and sometimes varied +the picture by turning to the beautiful panorama on every side of +the harbour. To rest the band, there were two interludes, when +the sailors danced hornpipes, and sang capital songs with choruses, +which some of us enjoyed so much that we would fain have prolonged +the concert. Unfortunately the king was tired of the +proceedings, and wanted to hurry through the dances for which +the queen had already engaged herself; so the singing was soon +stopped, and the ball resumed till the sun had almost set behind +Moorea, bathing its mountains in dreamy gold. A few minutes +later the island stood out in clear-cut lilac, floating between a sea +and sky of pale daffodil. Then we all returned ashore, and in the +evening went to hear some <i>himènes</i>, specially got up for the edification +of the strangers, who, however, by some unlucky misunderstanding, +failed to appear. But as compared with those I had +previously heard, these were very poor <i>himènes</i>, and I was almost +glad that they were not taken as samples of what those charming +glees can be.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-morrow morning the little Daring sails for Honolulu and +the great Shah for Valparaiso. Every one regrets so speedy a +departure, but the admiral says he dares not risk remaining with +700 Englishmen in this port, over Christmas Day, as it would be +impossible to keep the men on board, with the tempting shore so +close, and that if they once landed, some would inevitably get +drunk, and have a row with the French authorities. Our good +consul is evidently much relieved by this wise, though unpopular +decision.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It certainly is grievous that the jolly tars, of whom Britain is +so justly proud, contrive to do such scant credit to their nation or +themselves when they land in any foreign port. Here, for instance, +day after day, among the crowds who land on the shore just under +my verandah, I never hear a voice which seems to be raised in +anger,—all seem bright and happy. I wish I could say the sounds +are equally pleasant when a party of British sailors go past! <i>Then</i> +the echoes that linger on the ear are sanguinary and repulsive; a +painful contrast to the musical speech of the natives.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Shah is fortunate in possessing, in the Rev. —— Reed, a +chaplain who is exceedingly popular with all on board, and who +takes an immense interest in all that concerns his flock. Besides +the regular band, he has trained one specially to accompany sacred +music; and the church choir is said to be excellent. It would +have been really pleasant to have heard our own Church service on +Christmas Day. By some fatality I have not had that privilege +since leaving England; last Christmas Day having been spent in +the hateful work of transhipping on our way from Fiji to New +Zealand; and the previous one was spent in the mountains of great +Fiji. It has been the same as regards Easter. We had to sail +from Marseilles on Easter morning 1875. Easter of 1876 was +spent in a little Fijian village in the isle of Koro, and Easter 1877 +among the geysers of northern New Zealand. Where they may +next find me, who can tell?</p> + +<p class='c008'>I must close my letter that it may be sent on board the Daring +at daybreak. The pretty Tahitian girls are working all to-night to +finish arrowroot or bamboo fibre hats as parting gifts to the friends +whom they will probably never meet again. “Telle est la vie!”—Good-night.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Your Loving Sister.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_335'>335</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXIII.<br> <span class='c009'>THE ATOLL GROUP OF TETIAROA.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa, Tahiti</span>, <i>Christmas Day</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>A glad Christmas to you all, dear people! Would that some +good fairy could lend me a wishing-cap, that I might look in by +turns on each home gathering in the various corners of England +and Scotland. These marked anniversaries are always trying days, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_336'>336</span>which awaken longings for the bodily presence of the dear kith and +kin in the far country. But I confess I would rather that the said +wishing-cap could bring all of you here, away from the bitter frosts +and snows, to this paradise of sweet sunlight—and (selfish as it +sounds when expressed in words) away from constant sight of the +shivering ill-clad and half-starved people, whose deep-seated poverty +you can in no wise alleviate,—to these isles, where want, at least, +never appears prominently.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The whole family party of brothers and sisters, mother, aunts, +cousins, and feudal retainers, moved out here again immediately +after the departure of the big ship, and we have resumed the +pleasant existence of delicious early bathes, and long idle days +beneath the green shade by the lovely river.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I am sitting now in my favourite bower of dark hybiscus with +lemon-coloured blossoms, which overarches the sparkling rivulet, as +it branches from the main stream—an enchanting spot. I have +just been reading the old Christmas service, which brings back +many a vision of langsyne. There was a grand midnight Mass +last night at the Catholic church, and of course service this morning, +but none at the Protestant church, I believe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now I must go in to breakfast, <i>alias</i> luncheon, as a number of +friends are expected. This evening one of the neighbours gives +a large dance, to which, of course, we all go. Even non-dancers +find such ploys attractive when they involve a pleasant evening +drive in an open carriage, and no hot crowded rooms.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>December 31st.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I have had another small cruise in the Seignelay, which was +ordered to the isles of Tetiaroa, distant about twenty-four miles, +thence to bring back the king, who went there last week in an +open boat.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was arranged that I should sleep at the Red House, and go +on board with Queen Marau at daybreak. It proved to be rather +a stormy morning, with a good deal of sea on: the sunrise colouring +was very striking,—the mountains shrouded in heavy gloom, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_337'>337</span>dark storm-clouds revealing the edge of their silvery lining, and +a luminous prismatic halo playing all round the sun. Then the +cloud-masses dispersed; dainty pink cloudlets floated on a sky +which graduated from a pale-lemon hue to the colour of a thrush’s +egg, so that the whole colouring suggested broken rainbow lights, +changing incessantly for half an hour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Tetiaroa is a cluster of five low coral-isles, arranged in a circle, +connected by coral-reef, thus almost forming an atoll. The isles +are quite flat, nowhere rising more than four feet above the water. +By nature barren, they have been artificially rendered fertile by +the constant importation of vegetable mould from Tahiti; so now +each isle is a dense grove of cocoa-palms, whose roots are washed +by the salt spray.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Tetiaroa is to Papeete as Brighton is to London, a favourite +bathing-place, where the Tahitians betake themselves to recruit +their languid energies by a course of strong brine, though Tahiti +appears to me too healthy to require any sanatorium. It is, however, +worthy of note, that statistics go to prove that, as a rule, all +the low coral-formations are healthy, whereas the inhabitants of +high volcanic isles are frequently subject to fever and ague.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Though an imperfect atoll, this cluster was specially interesting +to me, as a type of the eighty isles which form the Paumotus. +Judging from this sample, I am satisfied that there is little to be +seen from the deck of a ship. Could we ascend in a balloon, +we should look down on a lagoon of shallow, very bright-green +water, encircled by five palm-clad isles, connected by bands of +rainbow-tinted reef,—say a garland of green roses and tricolour +ribbon. Could our balloon float above the Paumotu group, eighty +such garlands would be seen scattered on the deep-blue ocean, each +encircled by an outer belt of submarine prismatic colour, edged +with white breakers, marking where lies the barrier-reef.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At Tetiaroa, the only opening in the reef is so narrow as barely +to admit a canoe. We had, however, fully intended to land, but +the surf was so rough that we had to give up the idea, much to +my regret, especially as the day was devoted to heavy gun practice, +which of course involves ear-splitting noise and smoke. However, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_338'>338</span>I can stand fire pretty well, so took up a favourable position beside +one of the cannons, and received instructions in artillery practice. +But I confess I was not sorry when, after the fiftieth shot, the +look-out man (who sat aloft like the sweet little cherub) announced +the approach of the king, and presently we discerned a great crowd +of natives wading across the reef, and dragging his canoe. Ship-boats +put off to meet him; and though embarkation in such surf +was no easy matter, it was safely accomplished, and a few minutes +later the Seignelay received, not his majesty alone, but also a large +number of pigs, and heaps of cocoa-nuts, presented to the lord of +the isles, as parting gifts from loving subjects.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was late ere we landed at Papeete, so I again slept at the +Red House, where one of the Seignelay boats called for me at +daybreak, and landed me at the beautiful avenue of Fautawa, +where I had a most enjoyable morning of quiet sketching, till Mrs +Brander sent her pony-carriage to bring me home to the noonday +breakfast.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now the young folk are preparing for a midnight frolic. They +intend to have a very merry dance at a neighbour’s house; but +as it is to be impromptu, and the hosts are not supposed to prepare +any supper, each gentleman intends to carry a basket, ostensibly +of fruit and flowers, beneath which lie concealed sundry +bottles of champagne, wherewith to drink the New Year in. The +girls are busy weaving garlands, that all may be flower-crowned +to-night.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander and her mother alone represent the more thoughtful +element, and go to Papeete to attend a great native midnight +service. I am too tired to do either, so can only say to you, as to +the Old Year, “Good-night! Good-night!”</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXIV.<br> <span class='c009'>NEW YEAR’S DAY IN TAHITI—ASCENT OF FAUTAWA VALLEY—OF PALM SALADS, SCREW-PINES, AND BREAD-FRUIT—PACKING MANGO-STONES—RETURN OF GILBERT ISLANDERS—DEPARTURE OF THE SEIGNELAY.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa</span>, <i>New Year’s Day, 1878</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The dancers of last night did not come home till 3.30, and at +7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> the band of La Magicienne came here to serenade Mrs +Brander, and played divinely. Many friends drove out to offer +their New Year greetings, and so, as if by magic, the lawn was +soon crowded with a joyous party, all the girls dressed in the +prettiest, freshest of sacques, and their hair wreathed with bright +flowers. What could they do but dance? The band, having +pledged their hostess in her best champagne, played with a will for +a couple of hours, when they were provided with a substantial +breakfast, and then all the gentlemen drove off to another place +belonging to Mrs Brander, there to preside at a great breakfast to +all her <i>employés</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I drove into Papeete with pretty Pree, Manihinihi, and Naani, +to call on Marau, Moë, and other friends; and so we began the +New Year brightly and happily, in ideal, civilised-South-Sea +fashion.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>January 25th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Ever since I arrived here, we have been planning an expedition +to the French fort at some distance up this valley, at a height of +about 1600 feet above the sea. So one beautiful morning last +week, several friends from the Seignelay arrived here before sunrise, +and Ariipaea Salmon undertook to be our guide. He had, +unfortunately, hurt his foot, so he and I were privileged to ride, +the others walking.</p> + +<p class='c008'>For a considerable distance the path winds through a dense +thicket of guavas, all self-sown, and considered by the people as +great a curse as the (equally imported) <i>lantanna</i> in Ceylon, both +plants having a fatal facility for spreading and taking permanent +<span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>possession of every neglected corner. They are the Chinamen of +the vegetable world, and are quite as useful in their way. The +guava forms the principal firewood of Tahiti. It bears an abundant +crop of excellent fruit, which is now ripening just as the +mango season is finishing; and I think the Tahitian guava is better +than those of India and Ceylon. Certainly it has a far less sickly +smell. Cattle and horses alike munch both fruit and leaves with +avidity, so I cannot see why the guava should be so generally +despised; but the fact remains, strange to say, no one here seems +ever to think of making the delicious crimson jelly which we, in +England, prize so highly. The fruit is left to drop from the trees +utterly unheeded.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Further up the valley the track becomes steep and narrow, and +in places runs along the face of the cliff, with the rushing stream +immediately below, and overhanging boughs festooned with vines +growing so rankly as somewhat to endanger a rider. The beautiful +large granadilla passion-flower here runs riot, but its fruit is now +all finished. When ripe it resembles a good-sized pumpkin of a +bright golden colour, and contains a multitude of seeds like those +of a melon, each encased in white jelly. These lie inside a sweetish +pulp about two inches thick, which is generally thrown away, but +is nevertheless quite worth cooking as a vegetable.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I found the drooping branches so troublesome, that I foolishly +abandoned my horse very early, and had a much longer tramp than +I counted on. We had not gone very far ere we quite lost the +foot-track, and coming to a place where two ravines and two +streams meet, Ariipaea, who had not been here for a long time, +quite forgot which we were to follow; so first we tried the right +side, and clambered up a steep and difficult path, till we were convinced +that we were on the wrong track, and returning to the junction, +we tried the other ravine, crossing and recrossing the stream.</p> + +<p class='c008'>At length, after much loss of time and energy, we concluded +that our best course was again to return to the junction and there +breakfast, trusting that by good luck it might prove to be the day +on which “Père Fautawa” (as the old soldier in charge of the fort +is commonly called) would be returning from Papeete with his +<span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span>rations. Fortune favoured us; and ere we had finished the contents +of our hamper (carried by French sailors) the old man appeared, +and led the way by a middle path between the two streams. +It was a very steep scramble, among great boulders and masses of +rent crag, half hidden by the wealth of tree-ferns, young palms, +wild bananas, and other tropical foliage, such as ginger, turmeric, +wild caladium, and dracæna. The stems of the large trees are +covered with parasitic ferns, especially the handsome bird’s-nest +fern, which here grows luxuriantly.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After crossing several small streams, we climbed to the verge of +a deep ravine, at the head of which rises a precipitous cliff 600 +feet high. Over this rushes a cataract of white foam, which fades +into shadowy mist as it loses itself among the tall palms and +feathery foliage of the tree-ferns and parasitic vines which veil its +base. Above the fall is situated the French fortress.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The interest of the place does not lie in the fort of the foreigners, +but in the fact that this was the last stronghold of the Tahitians, +in their struggle to retain their independence and resist the hated +invaders. Here it was that the last man who fell in that brave +strife was shot, betrayed by one of his countrymen, who now reaps +the reward of his treachery in the enjoyment of foreign gold and +the red ribbon of the Legion of Honour. This was the last blood +shed. Now the red roses grow undisturbed on the ramparts, and +the lines of defence are so many terraced gardens, where the solitary +old soldier grows strawberries for sale in Papeete, whither he +descends once or twice a week to draw his rations and to see the +world.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It is a lonely ending for the old man’s days, and a strange contrast +to his former barrack-life. Now he is often for days together +enveloped in mists, which enfold him in an isolated cloud-world. +It is comparatively cold, too, at this high level, where at nights the +thermometer sometimes falls below 60°. At Père Fautawa’s bidding +we gathered ripe strawberries from his little garden, the first +I had seen growing for many a day.<a id='r68'></a><a href='#f68' class='c017'><sup>[68]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>Then while the sailors busied themselves preparing coffee, we +dispersed in search of pleasant pools for bathing, a luxury never +more prized than after such a scramble in a tropical valley. Hitherto +the day had been quite lovely, now it rapidly overcast, and +heavy clouds came down and hid the Diadème—the beautiful +crown-shaped mountain, that heads the valley. It is called by the +natives Maiao, and though its height does not exceed 4363 feet, it +is one of the most remarkable forms in Tahiti.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Ere we had finished our welcome coffee it began to pour so +heavily that I voted for camping where we were; but the others +feared a freshet, such as might make the streams impassable for +days. So they voted for starting instantly, and of course carried +the day; and we descended the steep mountain-path in blinding +rain, which blurred all beauty, and rushed in rivulets beneath our +feet. We were so thoroughly saturated, that crossing and recrossing +the stream ceased to give us a moment’s thought; and by the time +we reached this house, I confess to having been thoroughly exhausted, +as was to be expected, after a scramble of fully eight +miles without any time to rest.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Of course, as soon as we got back the weather cleared, and we +had a most lovely evening, followed by an exquisite moonlight +night, and a sunrise which, seen from Fautawa, would have been +too fascinating. It was with sore regret that I gazed upward to +the sunlit peaks; while for days afterwards I felt too utterly done +to do more than creep about the garden.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The upper heights of the valley are wellnigh inaccessible. They +culminate in a crag-ridge about 4000 feet in height, forming a crest +so narrow as to be a mere saddle barely three feet across—literally +a gigantic crag-wall, wooded to the summit. Few are the bold +spirits who have cared to scale this barrier in their endeavour to +cross the island. Only by painful climbing from ledge to ledge, +clinging to overhanging trees, trailing screw-pine, and sturdy vines, +which act as natural ropes, is it possible to make any way. Indeed +it is necessary to carry strong ropes in case of emergency; and +little help can be expected from native guides, who never dream of +expending toil so fruitlessly, unless worried into doing so by some +<span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>unrestful foreigner. I am sure I do not wonder at their being +satisfied with lower levels, seeing how enchanting these are. I find +day after day gliding by in such peaceful enjoyment, that time +passes unmarked, and the further expeditions, of which we have +sometimes talked, seem to involve too great exertion. Evidently +I am becoming indolent in these dreamy southern isles!</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>January 30th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I have just been feasting on a cocoa-palm salad, which would +make the fortune of the happy <i>chef</i> who could introduce it at an +alderman’s feast. That, fortunately for the plantations, is quite +out of his power, unless some process be discovered by which to +preserve uncooked vegetables. For this dainty consists of the +embryo primary shoot of the tree—the unborn fronds, which lie +curled up within in a close compact white mass, about the size of a +man’s arm, and resembling a gigantic stick of celery, with a flavour +of filberts. Of course so costly a dish as this (which sacrifices the +life of the tree) is rarely indulged in, save when a hurricane has +snapped the crown of the tall palm, or when some rich chief wishes +to entertain a guest, regardless of expense.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another very agreeable product of the cocoa-palm, which you in +England can never hope to taste, is an over-ripe nut, when in the +very act of sprouting. Previous to this, a very curious change has +occurred. As you must know, the germ of the plant lies just +within the three little eyes, which we used in nursery days to call +the monkey’s face. Indeed I fear that in those days of our ignorance +we imagined they were the marks left by the stalk, quite forgetting +that the nut lies in a large outer case of that brown fibre +which, in these our later days, we know as “coir.” Well, the +sharp end of the nut lies next the stalk, and the monkey-face at +the further end, so <i>that</i> nursery theory was fallacious, like some +others.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When the nut is fully ripe, a fibrous, spongy substance begins to +form all round the germ, and this gradually extends, absorbing both +the so-called milk and the hard kernel, till the whole shell is full +<span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span>of a soft, sweet, white growth, like a very light <i>blanc-mange</i>. If +at this stage the nut escapes the <i>gourmet</i> of the South Seas, the +young germ will soon force open one of the three eyes, and, working +its way through the fibrous husk, begin its heavenward growth; +while from the other two eyes will sprout two rootlets, which +instinctively turn downwards, and likewise penetrating the thick +protecting outer case, find their way to mother earth, and there +strike root. Still the white sponge within the nut goes on expanding, +till at length it splits the hard wooden shell, and then +gradually decays, and so forms a light nourishing soil, which acts +as mother’s milk to the baby tree in its delicate early days. After +a while it needs no such provision, but flourishes, in grace and +beauty, where other trees would starve.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I wonder that no one has ever discovered in the cocoa-palm a +meet emblem of charity. Of all plants that grow, none asks so +little, or gives so largely. It matters not how dry and barren is the +shallow soil, or how briny the coral-sand, washed by every rising +tide, the hardy palm strikes its roots among the fragments of coral, +and, bending to the gale, weathers the wild storms, and yields its +generous increase as abundantly as its more fortunate brethren +in the rich soil of sheltered, well-watered valleys. The poorest +islander on the loneliest atoll, possessed of a few cocoa-palms, can +exist. They give him food and drink, a fibrous material, all ready +woven, like coarse canvas, for dress; leaves for thatch, and oil for +light, and for personal adornment and comfort. To obtain the +latter, he collects a lot of old nuts, such as those we see for sale in +England, and scraping out the kernel into some old canoe, leaves +the whole mass for some days exposed to the sun, till the pure oil +exudes, and without further trouble he stores it in any vessels +he may possess—gourds or bamboos. Of course, a European who +trades in palm-oil prefers to collect it in the form of <i>coppra</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, +dried cocoa-nut—as a much larger amount of oil is obtained by +pressure of machinery.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Another hardy child of these coral-isles is the pandanus, or +screw-pine, as it is commonly called, because its leaves, which grow +in tufts at the tips of the branches, are all set like a screw, twisting +<span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span>round the stem, which is thus marked with a spiral pattern from +the root upward. Like the cocoa-palm, it grows in the clean dry +coral-sand, where there is apparently no moisture; yet when cut it +is found to be full of oily sap. The wood is close and hard, and +though rarely exceeding five or six inches in diameter, it often +grows perfectly upright, for fifteen or twenty feet, and yields excellent +posts for building; they are, however, hollow like a bamboo. +The long drooping leaves are valuable for thatch, being from three +to five feet in length, and about three inches wide. They are +edged with sharp prickles, but, when torn into strips, are useful +for plaiting mats and canoe-sails.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The women steep the leaves in sea-water, and then beat them +with a mallet till all the green skin comes off, leaving a beautifully +white silky fibre, which they dye red, yellow, and brown, and then +plait into wonderfully fine sashes, about a foot wide. It has been +suggested that this pure white fibre would prove a valuable material +for paper-making, but I have not heard of its being tried. A +stronger fibre is obtained by crushing the aerial roots, which this +strange tree throws out in all directions, forming stays by which it +protects itself against the violent gales,—a necessary precaution, +where the main root grows only in the sand.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The flower of the pandanus is exceedingly fragrant; but though +I have seen thousands of screw-pines, I have rarely had the luck +to find one in blossom. Its fruit resembles a coarse pine-apple. +When ripe it becomes bright scarlet, and the Samoans use it for +making necklaces. It is divided into honeycomb sections. When +the fruit is ripe these fall apart, each being a separate conical lump, +of which the inner end is soft and saccharine, and can be chewed +like sugar-cane.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When the capsules are thoroughly dried, they can be cracked, +and yield a kernel, which is edible; and in the barren isles, near +the equator, this fruit is considered a valuable product. It is dried +and grated, and the sweet brown sawdust thus obtained is stored +as the only substitute for flour; and cakes of it are baked, as +occasion may require, to eke out a fish diet, which is not always +forthcoming. It is said to be wholesome, nourishing food; but in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>these more luxuriant southern isles I have never seen it eaten by +the natives, only by the foreign labour—<i>i.e.</i>, the men imported +from the groups to the north-east, who are engaged to work on the +plantations. In their own isles they have discovered a means of +steaming and mashing the fruit which, when fermented, yields a +strong and highly intoxicating spirit. The whalers who years ago +settled among them, taught them to improve on this liquor by +distillation, and also instructed them how to obtain a fiery spirit +from the innocent palm-trees. So, thanks to their tuition, and +generally civilising influence, the Line islanders have become +infinitely more debased than they previously were.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It does seem too bad, does it not, to extract poison from these +useful trees? But whether it be orange-rum in Tahiti, or barley-bree +in the isles nearer home, I suppose the white race will find +means to procure fire-water wherever it goes, and seems to turn +every sort of plant to the same use. What with rum from the +sugar-cane, and fiery spirit from the sweet dracæna root, and even +from innocent bananas, it appears as if every good gift of heaven +was liable to be misused in like manner.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I hear some people say that they weary of the monotony of the +cocoa-palms; and certainly a low coral-shore, with an unbroken +line of palm-trees, is somewhat dull. Here, however, there is an +amazing variety in the foliage of the seaboard. Besides the many +beautiful large-leaved shrubs, there are various handsome trees, +which attain a great size, and, as I described to you, many grow so +close to the shore that their boughs literally dip into the sea. +Some of these are fruit-bearing. The <i>vi</i> bears bunches of large +yellow plums, and the <i>ahia</i><a id='r69'></a><a href='#f69' class='c017'><sup>[69]</sup></a> yields a lovely pink fruit, with white +juicy flesh.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But of all the indigenous trees none can compare for beauty and +value to the bread-fruit, which, though it demands a richer soil +in the first instance, rivals the cocoa-palm in its manifold uses. +Though it does not give drink to the thirsty, or coir for ropes and +matting, its resin forms a strong glue which is useful in caulking +the boats, and the bark of the young branches yields a fibre from +<span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span>which strong cloth is made. Its timber is exceedingly valuable; +and its thick glossy leaves, which are sometimes eighteen inches in +length by about twelve in breadth, are also turned to good account.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But of course it is chiefly prized for its abundant food-supply. +Each tree yields three, sometimes four, crops annually; and as there +are in these isles about fifty recognised varieties, which ripen at +different seasons, it follows that, with a little care in cultivation, +the supply might very easily be so regulated as never to fail. A +large bread-fruit tree in full bearing is certainly a most beautiful +object, with its wealth of green or yellow fruit hanging from +beneath the handsome deeply indented leaves. A good tree will +bear several hundred fruits—each about eight inches long by six +wide,—with a rough green rind, divided into a lozenge-shaped +pattern. This is sometimes peeled off before the white pulp is +cooked; but I infinitely prefer the bread-fruit roasted whole on the +embers or baked in the earth in a native oven, when the blackened +rind is scraped off, and the inside is found thoroughly cooked, and +in taste something like the thick scones known in the colonies as +“dampers,” or like the cold “chupatties” we used to eat on the +march in the Himalayas—floury but rather tough. I don’t think +that these natural loaves are to be compared to a good potato. +However, they are the bread of the favoured tropics; and nowhere +else does mother nature yield so much wholesome food for so +little human toil.</p> + +<p class='c008'>You need not, however, imagine that these good things are +common property, to be gathered and cooked by every hungry +man. On the contrary, every cocoa-palm and fruit-bearing tree on +these or any other isles that I know of, has its owner, and is very +likely the sole wealth of a whole family. So each fruit commands +as regular a market-value in the South Sea Isles, as do the apples +and potatoes of the English farmers. This is a simple fact, apparently +not always recognised by visitors and others, who occasionally +write to request their friends living here to send them cases of +oranges and other fruits, as if they supposed that these were to be +had for the mere trouble of gathering and packing!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Speaking of gathering and packing, I have for some time past +<span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span>been devoting a considerable amount of energy to collecting mango-stones, +or rather kernels, with a view to sending them to Fiji. It +is only about eighteen years since the mango-tree was introduced to +these isles from Rio Janeiro, and so wonderful is the rapidity with +which it has spread, that it now holds its place as the most marked +feature in the vegetation of this group. Every homestead is embowered +in these and other fruit-bearing trees, and for the last two +months every man, woman, and child (to say nothing of quadrupeds) +seems to be for ever eating ripe, delicious, golden mangoes; +and every road, indeed the ground in every direction, is strewn with +<i>les noyaux</i>; though the people so fully appreciate the luxury of a +feast by the river-side, where they may enjoy the juicy dainties +without the smallest respect for conventional appearances, that an +immense number of the finest kernels are thrown into the water—indeed, +since I have been so anxious to collect good sorts, I observe +with annoyance that though I entreat these careless easy-going +people (<i>le peuple</i>) to throw the best stones in some corner for me, +they seem by preference (or probably by force of habit) always to +chuck them into the water.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The French have taken immense trouble in perfecting this +valuable fruit, and have now introduced so many excellent varieties +that one crop succeeds another in rotation. The round mango is +succeeded by the golden egg, and that by a small purple, while the +large long sort seems inexhaustible. Best of all are those specially +cultivated by Monseigneur Janssen, Bishop of Axièri, who has +raised a super-excellent mango with a very large fruit, and a long +stone so thin and flat as to resemble the inner sole of a child’s +shoe.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The bishop has also been inspired with the happy thought of +distributing mango-stones in other groups, and sent off a large consignment +last month by a vessel going direct to New Caledonia. +He is most kind in helping me to collect a good assortment for +Fiji: at the same time, he warns me that taking the best seed is +no sure warrant for getting equally good plants, as no other tree +exists, so faithless in reproducing its own kind, and variety of soil +produces every conceivable variety of tree. You may take twin +<span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>fruits from one tree, and plant them a few yards to right and +left of the parent tree. One will grow up infinitely superior to its +mother—the other will be all stone and fibre, and scarcely fit for +the pigs. The only certainty lies in taking grafts of the good ones, +and so utilising the stock; also in planting, the richest soil must +be selected, as the tree has a long tap-root and strikes deep.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now there is abundance of rich soil in Fiji, and the ordinary +vegetation is identical with that of Tahiti; so there can be no +reason why the mango should not be acclimatised there as well as +here, and it would be a very great satisfaction to me to aid in +bestowing so great a boon on the young colony. I am sure I +deserve that the attempt should succeed, for it has already cost me +an immense amount of trouble. In spite of all precautions, of +careful drying and turning, &c., a very large number of the stones +I collected in the early part of the season have already sprouted. +Some are quite respectable young trees.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So now I am making a more systematic attempt, and have +devoted several days to driving to all the very finest gardens in +the neighbourhood, where, with the help of a pretty Tahitian boy +(who rather enjoyed such a chance of an unlimited feed), I set to +work to collect the half-decayed fruit, which lay rotting under all +the best trees. I can tell you that cleaning the stones was about +the hottest, dirtiest, and most fatiguing work I have done for many +a day. However, notwithstanding the heat, I stuck to it for six +hours one day and three the next, and two hours on several other +days. And the result is a splendid lot of <i>noyaux</i>, which every +morning I turn and re-turn, in order to dry them thoroughly, +hoping to prevent their sprouting like the first lot. But in spite +of all my precautions, the large flat seeds of the finest mango have +already done so—so they, at least, can only be propagated by +graffs. Another difficulty is, that hitherto all my efforts to send +plants from Fiji to England by Wardian cases of island manufacture +have proved abortive. In every case the plants have died, so +I do not feel much encouraged to try the experiment again.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The great difficulty lies in the length of time that must elapse +ere either plants or stones can reach Fiji; as, of course, such a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span>chance as that of the vessel which brought me thence, direct to +this group, is of very rare occurrence. The probability is, that the +seeds which I am now collecting will have to wait for an opportunity +of being sent by sailing vessel 2000 miles north to Honolulu; +there to be transhipped to a Pacific mail-steamer, and be +carried south-west 4000 miles to Sydney; where they would find +another steamer to take them the 1700 miles to Levuka, whence +they will find their way by sundry small sailing-boats to the +various Fijian isles. A somewhat circuitous route, you must +allow!</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>February 3d.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>After all, I have found a somewhat more direct route by which +to send some of my mango-stones. Le Limier was despatched +to-day on special service to the Gilbert Isles, thence to proceed to +New Caledonia, and her very obliging captain, Commandant Puèch, +offered to carry a large case to the care of the British Consul (Mr +Layard), who will forward it to Sir Arthur Gordon by the first +opportunity. So I set to work to pack 4000 carefully selected +stones, laying them side by side as neatly as though building a +wall with children’s little bricks. It took me a whole day’s work, +and, considering that each seed has passed through my hands six +or eight times, while collecting, cleaning, scraping, drying, turning, +selecting, and finally packing, you will not wonder that I looked +after the departing case with a feeling of quite maternal interest.<a id='r70'></a><a href='#f70' class='c017'><sup>[70]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>The mission on which Le Limier is now bound is to take back +200 of the Arawais, inhabitants of the Gilbert Islands, who were +<span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>brought here as foreign labourers about nine years ago, on the +understanding that they would very soon be sent home again, +whereas they have been detained all these years. When Admiral +Serres commenced critical inquiries on the various abuses at which +previous governors had winked, this fact became known, and he +decided that the labourers should be sent back soon after the New +Year—an announcement which filled their masters with dismay, in +view of ungathered crops, but was hailed by the Arawais with joy +till they learnt by what vessel they were to travel. Then they +were filled with alarm, believing that so large a ship would not +dare to risk the dangerous navigation between their little isles; +and that they would probably all be landed (as has often been +done in similar cases) on one or two of the principal isles, +where they would be left quite as much in a strange land as in +Tahiti, and, moreover, with the certainty of being robbed, and the +probability of being eaten by hostile tribes. So a considerable +number have refused to go on this occasion. Indeed M. Puèch is +himself much perturbed as to how to accomplish this really difficult +business.</p> + +<p class='c008'>He invited a few friends, including myself, to go on board at +the last moment, to <i>faire les adieux</i>. The vessel presented a +curious scene—picturesque, certainly, with abundance of bright +colour, but more like an emigrant ship than a man-of-war. Le +Limier is so constructed that she has not sufficient accommodation +to allow of all the crew sleeping below at one time. So these +wretched Arawais, including women and children, are taken only +as deck passengers; and as the cruise, under steam, cannot take +less than from sixteen to eighteen days, during which they must +take their chance of whatever weather they may encounter, you +can understand that the voyage does not promise to be a pleasure-trip.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The vessel carries much extra coal, to provide against the danger +of a calm. So half her deck is loaded with this dirty store, and +the 200 Gilbert Islanders are huddled together on the main-deck. +Each labourer has a trade box, containing a few clothes, a good deal +of tobacco, and some cheap toys for children; and this is <i>all</i> they +<span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>carry home as the fruit of their long exile. Nine years of ceaseless +toil in a far country, repaid by a little wooden box full of cheap +rubbish!</p> + +<p class='c008'>While we were on board, a little baby died on deck in its +mother’s arms. Some fellow-countrymen, who had come to see +their friends start, undertook to carry the poor little body ashore +for burial. The father opened his box of trade, and took out a few +yards of coarse printed calico, which he gave to the said friends, +apparently as payment for their trouble. The poor mother fell on +her face at the gangway, wailing piteously. She appeared utterly +miserable. It was a sad beginning for a voyage, and we all doubly +regretted the departure of our friends with such an unpleasant three +weeks in prospect.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When I saw how terribly overcrowded the vessel was, I thought +Captain Puèch must surely repent of his kindness in offering to +carry the big case of mango-stones; but on the contrary, he made +it appear as though I had done him quite a favour in letting him +take charge of the precious seeds, which, we trust, will hereafter +become so valuable a boon to Fiji. Kind, good friend, we all +wished him <i>bon voyage</i> with all our hearts; then returning to the +shore we watched the good ship sail, amid hearty cheers from Le +Seignelay, and with large bouquets on each mast, to mark that she +is homeward-bound.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>The Red House, Papeete</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Friday, February 8th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The Ségond, French man-of-war, has just arrived from San Francisco, +bringing the new French governor—a fine jovial naval officer—with +an A.D.C. who, like his chief, is well known in Tahiti for +his strong liking for natives and native customs.</p> + +<p class='c008'>So while the appointment has caused great delight to one section +of the community, others foresee a speedy relapse from the high-pressure +morality, and various reforms which, under the good admiral’s +<i>régime</i>, made Papeete so strictly respectable that its own +inhabitants said the like had never been seen under any previous +rule. But everything changes with the admiral and governor of +the day, and every one here declares that the ships in harbour +during the last few months have been of such exceptionally good +type that the result has been a model era, probably too perfect to +last.</p> + +<p class='c008'>To-morrow Le Seignelay is to sail for Valparaiso to restore M. +D’Oncieue, M. Fayzeau, and the band, to La Magicienne. So +to-day Mrs Brander gave a farewell breakfast at Fautawa to as +many as could come, after which we all adjourned here, as being +more convenient for a great reception at Government House to-night, +when the good band will play for the last time. Henceforth +Papeete must be content with the feebler efforts of a band recruited +from her own citizens, but as yet not up to the mark.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Saturday, February 9th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Le Seignelay sailed this morning, and with most true regret I +bade adieu to the pleasant companions of the last five months. +With unchanging kindness they again offered me the hospitality of +the ship, and placed a cabin at my disposal in case I cared to visit +Valparaiso; but I do not feel tempted by that unpicturesque coast, +and its very gay and gorgeously apparelled Spanish-German society. +In a very few days the Maramma must return from the Sandwich +Isles with her cargo of cattle, and then I hope to start for the +volcanoes.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_353'>353</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXV.<br> <span class='c009'>HURRICANE AT THE PAUMOTUS—MAHENA PLANTATION—WATCHING FOR VESSELS—FAREWELL TO TAHITI.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c005'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa</span>, <i>Tuesday, 12th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>News has just reached us of an awful hurricane and tidal wave +which has swept the whole group of the Paumotus, and it is not +known how far its influence has extended. Nothing of the sort +<span class='pageno' id='Page_354'>354</span>has occurred in these seas in the present century. The French +Resident and Mr Boosey, one of Mrs Brander’s agents, have just +arrived in the Elgin to ask for assistance, as the whole settlement +of Anaa is a heap of hopeless ruin. It was a flourishing little +town, about half the size of Levuka; it had about 150 houses, +good stores, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Mormon churches, +Resident’s house, &c. The Seignelay touched there on that memorable +cruise to the Marquesas, so I missed the chance of doing a +historical, antediluvian sketch.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander is most anxious about the fate of her other manager, +Mr Macgee; indeed we all are so, for he is a very good fellow, and +he has been staying with the family here for some time. He is +supposed to have been out that night in a very small vessel, which +is missing. The gale must have been appalling. It is calculated +that on Anaa alone, 300,000 cocoa-palms must have fallen, and Mrs +Brander’s loss in produce, stores and buildings, boats, three small +ships and their cargoes, is reckoned at 40,000 dollars, equal to about +£10,000—a serious night’s work.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Ségond is to be despatched to-morrow morning, loaded with +provisions, timber, and all things likely to prove useful in this +emergency. She is to go the round of every large isle in the group, +and do what she can to help the wretched inhabitants.</p> + +<p class='c008'>They say these tidal waves always accompany an eruption of +some volcano. I hope I shall not find that I have just missed one +at Hawaii!</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Mahena Plantation, Point Venus</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Thursday, Feb. 14th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>This is another place belonging to Mrs Brander, who sent me +here with her manager, Mr Lander, a German, that I might have a +few quiet days for sketching in this neighbourhood. There is a +large house here, close to the sea, where the family occasionally +come for a change. I was received by Toetoe, a handsome, stalwart +lass, daughter of a chief of Tupuai, the romantic isle of which Byron +sings in “The Island.” She introduced me to pets of all sorts—rabbits, +cows, horses, cats and dogs, especially a wee brown dog +<span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span>“Moosie.” She gave me milk without limit—always a luxury—and +in the evening we wandered by grassy paths beneath the cocoa-palms; +and then in the clear moonlight started for a walk along +the shore, which here is of a firm black sand, on which large waves +break in as full force as on our own north coast. This is due to +the fact that there is a passage through the coral-reef, just opposite +the house; so the sea rolls in unchecked.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Monday, 18th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>I have been rather worried for some days by prickly-heat, from +which many persons suffer almost continually in all tropical countries. +It is a general all-overish, tingling irritation of skin, very +unpleasant to the sufferer, who, however, receives no compassion, +as he is pleasantly informed that it is a symptom of excellent health, +and a safeguard against possible fever! Sea-bathing is generally +recommended as a cure, so that sunrise and moonlight alike find +me in pickle in the briny waters, where, borrowing courage from +Toetoe’s presence and good example (she being, as a matter of +course, a perfect swimmer), I venture on a dash through the breaking +waves to the pleasant calm water beyond; where, however, our +peaceful enjoyment is considerably marred by the dread of sharks, +which here venture close to the shore.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We have made various expeditions, walking and driving, to +picturesque points on land and shore; and a day at the lighthouse +enabled me to complete my previous sketch of Orofena, the highest +mountain of Tahiti.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now we are just starting to drive back along the coast to Papeete—a +lovely route, by which, as you may remember, I last travelled +by torchlight, on our return from the grand circuit of the isle.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>February 19th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>We have for some time been anxiously watching for the return +of the Maramma, Mrs Brander’s fine large ship, which is bringing +cattle from the Sandwich Isles, and which will, I hope, take me +there on her next trip, supposing no mischance has befallen her. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>But she is now considerably overdue, and fears are expressed that +she may have disobeyed orders, and gone to the dangerous coast of +Kauai, thence to fetch cattle. Or she may have encountered the +hurricane.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>February 20th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>A vessel has just come into port from Honolulu, bringing cattle. +She has been nineteen days on the voyage, and reports that the +Maramma is following.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In the evening the lovely moonlight tempted us to visit our old +haunts, the place where the admiral’s band used to play every +evening, but where, under the new <i>régime</i>, the hideous <i>upa-upa</i> is +now nightly danced for the edification of the admiring crowd. +There was the usual large picturesque assemblage, but their gaiety +was of a more demonstrative type than heretofore. In short, the +admiral’s excellent restrictions, which were to inaugurate quite a +new era in Tahiti, have already melted “like snowdrift in thaw” +before the cheerful presence of the new ruler; who, on the very +night of M. D’Oncieue’s departure, summoned many damsels (friends +of former days, and noted dancers of the obnoxious native wriggle) +to Government House, where they were hospitably entertained. +Of course news of this complete subversion of six months’ compulsory +reformation quickly spread to the remotest districts, and +from all parts of the island all the dancers flocked to Papeete, +where they now assemble every evening before Government House, +and the crowd thus attracted is of a sort such as ladies would not +care to mix in for long. To-night there was some rather pretty +singing, but not to be compared with the true <i>himènes</i>—and from +the laughter of the crowd it might be inferred that the words would +not bear translation.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Friday, 22d.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The Ségond has returned from the Paumotus with a lamentable +tale of disaster. We are all, however, much relieved at hearing +that our friend Mr Macgee is safe; though he had a most narrow +escape on the awful night of the hurricane, when he happened to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span>be on the isle of Kaukura, which seems to have been the centre of +the cyclone, and consequently suffered most. He had passed this +island a few days previously in the Marion, but the sea had been +too heavy to allow of so large a vessel venturing to approach. +Business compelling him to return, he did so in the May, a smaller +craft. Both vessels belong to Mrs Brander, and are named after +her daughters.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Like the generality of the Paumotus, Kaukura consists of a +circular group of low flat islets, either detached or connected by a +reef, thus forming an atoll enclosing a calm sea-lagoon; the whole +being protected from the outer ocean by an encircling reef. An +existence more calm and peaceful than that of the dwellers in these +coral-girt isles can scarcely be conceived; and a storm such as that +which has devastated the group, is of such rare occurrence as to be +little dreaded in the chances of daily life. Eighty years are said +to have elapsed since the last hurricane occurred in these latitudes. +Considering that many of these islets are not three feet above the +water-level,—that ten feet is considered high ground, and fifteen is +about the maximum elevation,—you can understand how appalling +is the danger caused by any eccentricity of tide.</p> + +<p class='c008'>As cocoa-nuts are the chief produce of the group, and indeed the +sole property of many families, it is customary to protect the interests +of each member of the community from all danger of poaching +on the part of his neighbour, by laying a <i>taboo</i> on the whole +crop until a given day. I suppose I need scarcely tell you what is +meant by this ceremony, which, under slightly varied names (<i>tabu</i> +in New Zealand, <i>tambu</i> in Fiji, <i>tapu</i> in Samoa, and <i>kapu</i> in +Hawaii), is common throughout the Pacific, and implies that something +has been reserved or rendered sacred by order of the chief. +In olden days the multitudinous forms of <i>taboo</i> were to all these +islanders a heavy burden, weighing grievously upon them in every +phase of life; and the infringement of the most arbitrary rule thus +imposed was generally punished by death. Even now a formerly +declared <i>taboo</i> carries such weight, and appeals so forcibly to the +superstitions of the people, that it is almost invariably respected.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Thus in the matter of the cocoa-nut crop not a nut from the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span>reserved plantations can be touched, till, on the removal of the +prohibition, all the proprietors and their families, together with all +interested in the purchase of the nuts, or in securing payment of +debts previously contracted, assemble at the <i>Rahui</i>, as it is called, +and there build for themselves frail booths of palm-leaves—a sorry +shelter at the best.</p> + +<p class='c008'>In such a leaf-village, on one of the detached islets, all the +inhabitants of Kaukura had assembled, together with a number of +traders from other places, in all numbering nearly 200 persons, +when they were overtaken by the awful hurricane of the 6th +February. For some hours previously the greatest anxiety had +prevailed. A strong easterly breeze had for three consecutive days +lashed the waters of the lagoon into fury, then gradually veered +round to the west with ever increasing force. The outer ocean, +now rising in tumultuous waves, swept in from the westward; and, +sweeping right over the barrier-reef with a roar like thunder, broke +on the shore with a force unequalled in the memory of any islander +now living. Thus the usually calm lagoon within the coral ring, +and the annular lagoon on its outer edge, were alike lashed to +tempestuous billows, dashing with awful force on either side of the +low islet; while the water from below was actually forced up +through the coral foundation, till the light sandy soil was so +thoroughly saturated as to have become a mere quicksand.</p> + +<p class='c008'>With danger alike imminent on land and sea, it was a difficult +question which to face. The ground was apparently about to be +wholly submerged, and the alarm was such that 118 persons, +including one European (George Herder, agent for a large German +mercantile house), decided to take refuge in their boats. All these, +with the exception of one man, a native of Anaa, perished.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The others, including Mr Macgee and a few other Europeans, +fled to the highest part of the land, which was about fifteen feet +above the ordinary water-level. The ground is there strewn with +large rocks and stumps of palm-trees. To these they clung all +through the long dreary night, while the waves from both lake and +sea met and dashed right over them in cataracts of foam.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Throughout the long hours of darkness they battled with the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>raging waters. Again and again they were dashed from the rocks +or stumps to which they clung, and endured a moment of bewildering +horror, while carried at the mercy of the swirling waters, +till happily some other object presented itself at which to clutch. +Further, they were in imminent danger from sharks, which, as they +well knew, might attack them at any moment,—a consciousness +which formed a horrible item in that night of dread. Mingling +with the roar of the waters and the shrieking of the hurricane, +came the crash of falling palms, uprooted, twisted, or snapped by +the fury of the gale.</p> + +<p class='c008'>When morning broke, the tempest abated; the waters receded to +their accustomed bounds, leaving the island a complete wreck, and +its shores strewn with the bodies of the dead.</p> + +<p class='c008'>After a few days, a boat arrived in search of Mr Macgee, +despatched from the island of Apataki, where he had left the +Marion. He found her high and dry on the beach, but otherwise +not seriously injured. Of the little May he had himself caught a +last glimpse as a huge wave lifted her up and carried her right +over the wharf, to disappear in the turmoil of seething waters +beyond. Many other small craft have been wrecked. Amongst +others the Hornet, a 42-ton schooner; the Nerine, 28-ton; and a +great number of boats, which were washed out of the lagoon and +carried out to sea.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The isles of Niau, Anaa, and Rangiroa, <i>i.e.</i>, long cloud, seem to +have suffered the most severely. On the latter almost every house +has been destroyed, one hideous detail being that the cemeteries have +literally been washed away, and the bodies, bones, and skulls lie +strewn over the isle, mingled with the corpses of the drowned, to +the gratification of such hungry pigs as have survived the deluge, +and who quickly scented out the loathsome festival. Among the +bodies which shared this horrible fate, was recognised that of a chief, +who had been buried a few days previously.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Nor was this the only isle where the sea disturbed the resting-places +of the dead. Mr Boosey told me that on his returning to +the miserable wreck of what had been his home at Anaa, he +therein found two skulls, which the waves had sportively deposited +<span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>as grim ornaments for his dining-room. Anaa was the principal +settlement in the Paumotu group. The storm did not actually +break there till the 7th February, though for some hours previously +the barometer had been falling steadily, marking a descent +from 30.10 on the morning of the 6th to 29.24 on the afternoon +of the 7th.</p> + +<p class='c008'>This so alarmed Mr Boosey that he proceeded to move some of +his goods to a large native house built on the highest point of the +island, which, however, did not exceed twenty-five feet above the +sea-level. His neighbours, like those of Noah of old, somewhat +derided his precautions; but even he had saved comparatively +little, when the sea came pouring in over the reef in mighty waves, +which swept all before them, almost entirely covering the island. +When, on the morning of the 8th, the waters receded, a mass of +broken timbers and rubbish alone remained to mark where, but a +few short hours previously, had stood about 150 buildings of one +sort or another. All the boats were destroyed, and the whole land +strewn with fallen palms, lying tossed about at every conceivable +angle. The destruction of cocoa-palms throughout the group is +reckoned at two millions; and as these are the chief wealth, indeed +the principal means of subsistence, of the people, and as it takes +about eight years for a young palm to attain maturity, you can in +a measure realise the loss thus represented, and the time that must +elapse ere the poor Paumotus recover from the effects of this +terrible storm. The Ségond reports that the sea for many miles +around the group is so encumbered with wreckage of every sort, as +seriously to endanger navigation.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>February 26th</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The chief interest of daily life is watching for vessels. The +mail from San Francisco is late, and of the long-looked-for ship +from the Sandwich Isles nothing further has been heard. Both +ships belong to Mrs Brander. The former—the Paloma—is called +after her little daughter; the latter—the Maramma—bears one of +her own names. A hundred times a day we look up to the semaphore +to see whether the signals reveal any hint of the returning +<span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>wanderers, but no cheering sign appears. It is very trying for my +kind dear hostess, who has so much at stake, and whose eldest son +Aleck is expected to return from Honolulu in the missing cattle-ship.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Otherwise life is running on in strangely even tenor, and I begin +to realise that in the South Seas, as in other places, delirious +gaiety is only an occasional accident, and even music is only +practised by fits and starts. Certainly it has been well for the +truthfulness of my impressions of travel that I stayed here long +enough to see a little of the <i>dessous des cartes</i>, instead of seeing +everything only through the roseate glasses of the hopeful admiral, +who was so sanguine that his multitudinous reforms would all +flourish. I am glad that I have seen Tahiti in all its phases, +especially in its quiet ordinary state, which no one travelling in a +man-of-war, or in any other large ship, can ever see, as the kindly +people are always glad of the smallest pretext for getting up +festivities.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Amongst other wrong impressions, I should certainly have +carried away an idea that <i>himène</i> singing was the normal condition +of Tahitian life—that all the people were for ever warbling like +birds, as naturally as they breathed, and that the very air was +musical. I now find that this is by no means the case. Since +the outburst of song which everywhere greeted King Ariiaue on +his accession, all the birds have been mute. I have only heard one +<i>himène</i>, and that was got up to order, in honour of H.M.S. Shah, +and a very poor specimen it was.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But chiefly I rejoice that my prolonged stay here with this fine +family of real old Tahitian chiefs (who have treated me with the +same loving kindness they heap on one another), has not only +shown me whatever still remains of the true Tahitian element, but +has also enabled me to realise, in person, the existence of the +warm-hearted unbounded hospitality which (now necessarily wellnigh +a tale of the past, in overcrowded British isles) still flourishes +and luxuriates beneath these balmy heavens.</p> + +<p class='c008'>But as all things must have an end, and my visit to Tahiti has +already extended to five months, I now only await the arrival of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span>either of the missing ships, to decide by which route to tear myself +away from the Tahitian paradise, and all the kind, kind people in +it, to whom it owes half its charm.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>March 5th.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Misfortunes never do come singly, and really it seems as if every +vessel that has come in of late has brought tidings of some fresh +loss. Of those for which we watched so anxiously, the first to +arrive was the Paloma, from San Francisco. Great was the joy +when she was sighted, great the dismay when it became known +that she brought no mails. It appears that she had been becalmed +on her voyage to ’Frisco, and so had arrived late. The French +consul there, sooner than allow one day’s delay in starting the +return mail, had chartered another vessel, the Bonanza, to bring it +down, at a cost to the Paloma of 2000 dollars. The latter had to +wait several days in San Francisco for cargo; and nevertheless, +though the Bonanza is accounted a swift sailer, the Paloma reached +Honolulu several days before her. She brought news that the +Maramma got into so many difficulties at the Hawaiian Isles that +Aleck Brander deemed it best to take passage by the mail-steamer +up to San Francisco, intending to return thence in the Paloma; +but finding that the Bonanza was chartered for an immediate start, +he decided to come by her, and so has only just arrived, after both +the other ships had been some days in harbour.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Maramma has had quite a chapter of accidents. After +making an excellent run to Honolulu, she went down to Kauai to +ship cattle, when it was discovered that she had sprung a serious +leak, and had nine feet of water in her hold. Happily she was so +close inshore that she landed all her cargo without difficulty. A +Government steamer was sent down to tow her back to Honolulu, +at a cost of 3000 dollars. Another 1000 dollars were there expended +on repairs, and to this must be added 2000 more of dead +loss on the voyage,—and all this was due to one rat-hole!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now she is undergoing further repairs here, and will very likely +be despatched to Hawaii in a very few days, in which case she will +probably go direct to Kauai, the most beautiful, and least visited, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>of all the Sandwich Isles. It is a very tempting possibility, yet +the element of doubt as to whether she really will go at all, exists +so clearly, that it seems wiser for me to take passage in the Paloma +to San Francisco, and thence return to Honolulu by mail-steamer. +It is a terribly long round; for whereas Honolulu is 2000 miles +from here, San Francisco is at least 4000, as the crow flies, and as +ships go, the voyage is often one of 5000 miles, or even more—a +long voyage to undertake in a brigantine of 230 tons!</p> + +<p class='c008'>Aleck Brander has been giving us most interesting accounts of +his reception in Honolulu by all the royalties and high chiefs of +Hawaii. As I have before mentioned, they all count blood-relationship +with the high chiefs of Tahiti; and though they rarely meet, +a visit from one to the other is a great event. So Aleck’s first +visit was celebrated by a true native welcome, and he had the luck +of seeing such traces of old Hawaiian custom as have not yet quite +died out. But it sounds odd to hear of presentations of food, and +of crouching servants, quite <i><span lang="fr">à la</span></i> Fiji, combined with very smart +American-Parisian dresses, very much <i>décolletée</i>. At least the +photographs, of which Aleck has brought a large supply, represent +the great ladies of Hawaii in very low-necked and short-sleeved +dresses of gorgeous material. Certainly the simple robes of Tahiti +are infinitely preferable.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On Board the Paloma</span>,</div> + <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, 9th March</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The die is cast, the sad partings over, and I have bidden a long +farewell to the kindest and most affectionate community I have yet +discovered in all my wanderings. I took leave of them all yesterday +morning, for the Paloma had gone to Hitiaa, on the other side +of the island, there to load with oranges.</p> + +<p class='c008'>My only fellow-passengers are a very kind couple, Mr and Mrs +Boyd, who are accompanied by a pretty fair-haired child. We +came together from Papeete, in a comfortable coach with canvas +cover, and had a most lovely sixty miles’ drive along the shore, +with the distant hills standing out clearer and more beautiful than +I had ever yet seen them, and the foliage seeming richer than ever, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>as I looked on it all with the sorrowful feeling that it was for the +last time.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Several bridges had been washed away during a recent storm—the +same which wrought such devastation in the Paumotus—so we +had to cross the rivers at the mouth, by driving quite into the sea. +It was rather nervous work, as the horses did not like it at all. +But otherwise, the beautiful grass roads were in excellent condition, +and we had four changes of very good horses, so the drive was +most delightful.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now the beautiful isle lies far behind us, fading into the blue +distance, and we are fairly started on our far journey.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Small as is our ship, she is in every respect satisfactory, and as +clean and cosy as a gentleman’s yacht. I never saw so small a +vessel carry so much sail,—truly our Paloma deserves her name, +for she is now flying before the breeze like a swift white-winged +carrier-pigeon, bearing many a letter.<a id='r71'></a><a href='#f71' class='c017'><sup>[71]</sup></a></p> + +<p class='c008'>She also carries 270,000 oranges—a fragrant cargo. They are +gathered unripe, to be ready for the market on our arrival. Probably, +if we make a slow voyage, we shall seriously diminish their +numbers! On their account, every part of the ship is kept as cool +and airy as possible.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Our cabins are excellent. Mine is large and comfortable, and +has two windows opening on to the deck, so that they need never +be shut unless weather is very bad. The table is excellent, the +service quiet and attentive. Our Danish captain is an exceedingly +good fellow, as is also his wife, who travels with him.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The cook and steward, and the two mates, are Swedes and +Germans. Seven Rarotongans compose the crew: all are very +quiet and silent. So is little Edith, with her cat and kitten. The +canary is the only noisy person on board, and sings joyously.</p> + +<p class='c008'>We are starting as it were on a long yachting cruise in summer +seas.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, April 20th</i>,</div> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Still on Board the Paloma</span>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Our summer cruise has lasted six weeks; we have made about +<span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>the longest voyage on record. We have lain becalmed for days, +which both the captain and his wife attribute to my perversity in +writing letters on board! They say it <i>always</i> happens when passengers +write, and that it ought to be an irrevocable law that all +ink-bottles are emptied when their owners embark. Unaccountable +currents have drifted us far out of our course, and the irregular +behaviour of the trade-wind has driven us right to the west of the +Sandwich Isles, and yet had not the kindness to blow us close to +Honolulu, where I might have met some vessel running in and +transhipped,—Captain Nissen would not have dared to land me +himself, as he would thereby have broken his mail contract. But +we passed close to Kauai, which, seen from the sea, is a very uninteresting-looking +island; and then we sailed so close to Niihau +that we could distinguish every house. It did seem a pity that +the aggravating contract should prevent my landing at once, instead +of my having to go on all the way to San Francisco, just to return +in a steamer! We have actually made a voyage of 6000 miles +since we left Papeete! For my own part, I really have not disliked +it. We have had lovely weather; everything has gone on +most pleasantly; and what with reading, working, and painting, +the days have been well filled.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Yesterday was Good Friday, which in Germany and Denmark +is called “the quiet day,”<a id='r72'></a><a href='#f72' class='c017'><sup>[72]</sup></a> and it was observed by the Danes and +Germans, and all the crew, by a cessation from all manner of work +not positively necessary. The Rarotongans are all Christians, and +have their own books, which they read quietly on Sundays.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now we are off the coast of California. We are nearing the +Golden Gates, and hope to find ourselves safe in harbour, before +the dawn on Easter morning.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c005'> + <div><span class='small'>THE END.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c005'> + <div><span class='xsmall'>PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div id='end' class='figcenter id001'> +<a href='images/p3670_map_hr.jpg'><img src='images/p3670_map.jpg' alt='A LADY’S CRUISE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR' class='ig001'></a> +</div> + +<hr class='c024'> +<div class='footnote' id='f1'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. Since the above was written, Mr Watkin has been appointed Chairman (or as +we might say, Wesleyan Bishop) of Tongatabu.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Mr Baker has ceased to work in connection with the mission, and now acts as +Prime Minister to King George.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f2'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. For numerous instances of this, see ‘From the Hebrides to the Himalayas’ +(C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. i. pp. 203–210.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f3'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. I am happy to say that the king’s good sense carried the day, and enabled the +wishes of the people to find an independent voice. In July 1879, King George +formally opened a Tongan Parliament, at which, for the first time, representatives +of the people were present, under the new constitution, to discuss all questions +relating to their own wellbeing. Ere the close of the session, in the middle of +September, the law prohibiting the manufacture and wearing of native cloth, and +rendering certain articles of clothing compulsory, was abolished. Men and women +are now permitted to wear any clothes they please, in doors or out, provided, of +course, that they are decently clad according to South Sea interpretation of the +word. The only exception to this happy rule of liberty is the interior of the +Wesleyan Church at Nukualofa, where it is still necessary for men to appear in +full European dress—coat, trousers, shoes, &c.—and for women to wear bonnets +and dresses! Those who cannot, or will not, comply with this regulation, must +stay outside the sanctuary.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The prohibition against women smoking was also modified. Doubtless the +revenue will suffer from the diminution of lines, but that can scarcely be a matter +of much regret. Various other wise measures were passed, showing that the Tongans +have awakened to understand the folly of attempting to introduce the manners +and customs of foreign countries, without reference to the requirements and necessities +of their own people. Consequently several excellent Tongan customs relative +to tenure of lands, tribes, and status of the people, are now legalised; and the +representatives have shown their strong and sensible desire to retain all that was +good in their national code of laws, but which had been put away, together with +things evil, at the suggestion of resident foreigners.</p> + +<p class='c008'>That the latter were so effectually prevented from unduly influencing the young +Parliament, was doubtless due to the presence of H.B.M. Deputy-Commissioner +for Tonga, A. P. Maudslay, and of Mr Wilkinson, both of whom have been engaged +in the establishment of the new Government in Fiji, and well know the wisdom +of ruling a semi-civilised race by retaining, so far as is possible, their own ancient +feudal customs.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f4'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. A great Tongan chief, settled in Fiji, who, up to the time of annexation, +contested with Thakombau for the supremacy. I have just received news of his +death.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f5'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. Since my return to England, I have heard the statement corroborated.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f6'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. <i>Vide</i> ‘At Home in Fiji’ (C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. ii.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f7'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. The struggle lasted for some time. Finally, Malietoa again got the upper +hand, and was acknowledged king by the foreign Powers, General Bartlett, U.S., +being his prime minister. In August 1879, the Hon. Sir Arthur Hamilton Gordon, +Commissioner for the Western Pacific, arrived at Apia, and concluded a treaty +with the king and Government of Samoa, declaring perpetual peace and friendship +between the people of their respective isles. The Samoans ceded to Britain the +right to establish a naval station and coaling depot, as had previously been granted +by treaty both to Germany and America. On the 8th November 1880 King Malietoa +died. He was barely forty years of age, and a man greatly loved by all his +own people. Probably but for the disturbing presence of the meddling whites, +he might still be reigning over a happy and prosperous people. As it is, the country +is once more in a state of anarchy; and the good bishop, whose heart yearned +for the peace and prosperity of the people, has himself passed away to the world +where all is peace.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f8'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. <i>Didunculus strigirostris.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f9'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. Or more correctly, in old Celtic parlance, <i>tuaphol</i>—that is to say, a turn contrary +to the course of the sun, keeping the left hand towards the centre. It was +only used when invoking a curse, as opposed to the turn <i>deisul</i>, which invoked a +blessing on the object round which the turn was made. The superstition is common +to all lands in whose early mythology sun-worship held a place. See ‘From +the Hebrides to the Himalayas,’ vol. i. p. 203.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f10'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. The <i>sulu</i> of the Friendly and Fijian Isles, the <i>pareo</i> of Tahiti, the <i>sarong</i> of +the Malays, or the <i>comboy</i> of the Singalese, is simply a fathom of cloth wrapped +round the lower limbs, and reaching to the knee or the ankle, according to the +width of the material.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f11'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. Capital of Fiji.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f12'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. Shortly after the above was written, the Pacific was electrified by the sudden +collapse of this huge mercantile house, which failed for the modest sum of one +million sterling.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f13'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. <i>Vide</i> New Zealand Blue-Book, 1874—evidence of Mr Sterndale, late <i>employé</i> +of Mr Godeffroy.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f14'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. Sea-urchins.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f15'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r15'>15</a>. <i>Fa</i> “in the manner of”—</p> + +<table class='table2'> + <tr> + <td class='c025'><i>Vaka-Viti</i>,</td> + <td class='c026'>Fiji-wise.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c025'><i>Faka-Tonga</i>,</td> + <td class='c026'>Tonga-wise.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c025'><i>Fa-Samoa</i>,</td> + <td class='c026'>Samoa-wise.</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f16'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r16'>16</a>. Great love to you.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f17'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r17'>17</a>. Apparently women are held in higher estimation by the Samoans than by +some folk in the British Isles. I have just heard of a Highlander driving a very +fierce bull along a highroad. To him, quoth a friend, “That is a dangerous-looking +brute!” “Ou na!” replies the owner; “he is just as ceevil as a sheep. +He wadna hurt onybody, unless, maybe, weemen and bairns and suchlike!”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f18'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r18'>18</a>. The Rev. W. Wyatt Gill has recorded a multitude of most interesting examples +of such parables from nature. Moreover, happily for all lovers of such +lore, he has, during his mission career in the Hervey Isles, found time to preserve +many delightful “Myths and Songs from the South Pacific.” It is much to be +wished that the same could be done for other groups.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f19'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r19'>19</a>. <i>Crinum asiaticum.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f20'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r20'>20</a>. Nineteen Years in Polynesia. By the Rev. George Turner, London Missionary +Society.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f21'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r21'>21</a>. For a few examples, to which many more might be added, see ‘From the +Hebrides to the Himalayas,’ vol. i. pp. 16, 74, 130–134.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f22'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r22'>22</a>. <i>Vide</i> ‘At Home in Fiji,’ by C. F. Gordon Cumming.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f23'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r23'>23</a>. <i>Aitutaki</i>, “led by God.”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f24'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r24'>24</a>. Notably one dug out of the peat-moss at Ballachulish, now in the Antiquarian +Museum in Edinburgh; and those in the Museum at Hull; also those in the Berlin +Museum. All these have the eyes formed of quartz pebbles, instead of the bits of +pearly shell or of obsidian used in the manufacture of idols in the Pacific.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The stone gods also had their counterparts in our own isles. When Dr Turner +visited the Union or Tokelau Isles in 1850, he found that the great god, Tui +Tokelau, was supposed to be embodied in a rude stone, which was carefully +wrapped up in fine mats, and never seen by any human eyes save those of the +king, who is also the high priest. Even he might only look upon the sacred stone +once a year, when the old mats were removed and new ones supplied. Of course +constant exposure in all weather, day and night, soon decayed the mats; but the +worshippers continually offered new ones, <i>especially in cases of sickness</i>, and these +were wrapped round the idol, so that, ere the day came round for its disrobing, it +attained a prodigious size. The old mats were considered so sacred that none +might touch them; so they were laid in a place apart, and there left to rot. The +month of May was especially devoted to the worship of this god, and the people +assembled from all the Tokelau isles to hold a great feast in its honour, and to +pray for prosperity and health, and especially <i>for an abundant supply of fish</i> and +cocoa-nuts.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Now turn from the Pacific to the North Atlantic, and read a statement by the +Earl of Roden, in his ‘Progress of the Reformation in Ireland.’ He says:—</p> + +<p class='c008'>“In the south island—<i>i.e.</i>, Inniskea, off the coast of Mayo—in the house of a +man named Monigan, a stone idol, called in the Irish <i>Neevougi</i>, has been, from +time immemorial, religiously preserved and worshipped. This god resembles in +appearance a thick roll of home-spun flannel, which arises from the custom of +dedicating a dress of that material to it whenever its aid is sought; this is sewn +on by an old woman, its priestess, whose peculiar care it is. Of the early history +of this idol no authentic information can be procured, but its power is believed to +be immense. <i>They pray to it in time of sickness</i>; it is invoked <i>when a storm is +desired to dash some hapless ship upon their coast</i>; and again, the exercise of its +power is solicited in calming the angry waves <i>to admit of fishing</i> or visiting the +mainland.”</p> + +<p class='c008'>It scarcely seems possible, does it, to realise that our own ancestors were as +gross idolaters as any South Sea Islanders? Yet in the majority of these isles the +present generation have never seen an idol of any sort; and should they ever visit +our museums, they would gaze on the gods of their own fathers as wonderingly as +we do on those of the early Britons.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f25'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r25'>25</a>. Alas! the fate of the majority has already been sealed. In the spring of +1881, the following brief paragraph announced that the lives of these brave +pioneers had already been sacrificed:—</p> + +<p class='c008'>“<span class='sc'>Massacre of Missionaries.</span>—Despatches received in Liverpool announce the +massacre in New Guinea of a number of missionaries belonging to the London +Missionary Society. The news was conveyed to Melbourne in a telegram from the +Rev. Mr Beswick, who himself narrowly escaped with his life. On the 7th of +March the missionaries were attacked by the natives at Kato, in the district of +Port Moresby, Hulu, and four of them, with two of their wives, four children, and +two servants, were killed. The natives also attempted to kill four native boys who +were with the missionary party, but they saved themselves by swimming. Not the +slightest provocation was given; but it is stated in the despatch that the perpetrators +of other previous massacres on the coast have not been punished, and this +is considered to be the main cause of the outbreak. The total number of persons +killed was twelve, but the list would have been much greater had not the remainder +of the party made their immediate escape. For fear the natives would make a +further attack upon the missionaries in the outlying districts, they were all removed +from their stations to Port Moresby.”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f26'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r26'>26</a>. Foreign.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f27'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r27'>27</a>. The thought of this poor savage, week by week imperilling his life by crossing +that stormy sea in his frail canoe, has often come vividly to my mind as an illustration +of the words in Deut. xxx. 11–14: “This commandment which I command +thee this day, it is not hidden from thee, neither is it far off. It is not ... beyond +the sea, that thou shouldest say, Who shall go over the sea for us, and bring +it unto us, that we may hear it, and do it? But the word is very nigh unto thee, +in thy mouth, and in thy heart, that thou mayest do it.”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f28'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r28'>28</a>. Christianity.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f29'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r29'>29</a>. See note on <i>Etu</i> worship at the end of this letter.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f30'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r30'>30</a>. See an interesting article on the origin of clan names in Britain, ‘Cornhill +Magazine,’ September 1881—“Old English Clans.”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f31'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r31'>31</a>. It is hard to have to think of that tender and loving heart as of a mere material +relic. Yet, as the heart of the Bruce, enshrined in its golden casket, was carried +by his true knight to that Holy Land which his feet might never tread, so has the +heart of this saintly prelate—the first Bishop of Samoa—been borne by his faithful +followers, to find its resting-place in the church where for so many years he pleaded +for, and with, his people.</p> + +<p class='c008'>It was brought from France by Père Lamaze, now consecrated Bishop of the +Isles. The heart is enclosed in a glass urn, with an outer case of gold, ornamented +with precious stones, and supported by four angels. On the lid of this +reliquary is a representation of a bishop appearing before the judgment-seat of our +Lord.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On reaching Samoa, the casket was deposited at Vaea, while preparations for its +reception were made at Apia. On the 24th May 1881, about six hundred Catholics +assembled at sunrise at the church at Vaea, to pay a last tribute of respect and +devotion to their loved bishop; then forming in solemn procession, they moved +towards Apia. The children from the convent school at Savalalo walked first, followed +by their teachers; next the Catholics of Apia and the surrounding districts. +These were followed by the clergy, four of whom acted as pall-bearers, while four +others carried the heart. Last of all came the Catholic chiefs, the catechists of +Vaea College, and the natives residing at the mission-house at Apia.</p> + +<p class='c008'>On reaching the church, a sermon was preached by Bishop Lamaze, and the heart +was then deposited in a niche in the wall, there to remain enshrined, as a perpetual +memorial to the people of Samoa of the earnest and noble life that was spent in +striving to exemplify the holiness he preached.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f32'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r32'>32</a>. The following paragraph is from a recent Hawaiian Gazette, showing the course +of events in Samoa:—</p> + +<p class='c008'>“We learn, through the courtesy of Lieutenant Abbot of the Lackawanna, some +interesting particulars in relation to the political condition of the Samoan archipelago. +The chief Malietoa, whose name is identified with the sovereignty of +Samoa, is dead, and his nephew and namesake has succeeded to his political +authority and state; but a rival chief, Kepua Tomisasu, has been contesting the +succession, and previous to the arrival of the Lackawanna there had been a series of +desultory semi-barbarous war campaigns—not resulting in any decisive action or +notable slaughter of men, but causing widespread ruin, robbery, and unrest. The +American commander Gillis now presented his good offices in the way of reconciliation, +and to establish between rival chiefs and peoples of the same land a more +harmonious and patriotic spirit. And we are happy to say that, after many baffling +discussions, a political unity and harmony on Samoa have been effected—Malietoa +II. being proclaimed King of Samoa, and his rival, Kepua, the Premier of Samoa, +with an authority on public questions somewhat like our former Kuhina Nui.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“The Samoan warriors have all dispersed and returned to peaceful pursuits. +The terms of peace were drawn up and signed on board the Lackawanna in the +harbour of Apia, and a royal salute of 21 guns was fired from the vessel in honour +of the event.</p> + +<p class='c008'>“We are glad to recognise that in this instance the commander of an American +man-of-war intervenes solely as a peacemaker, and to promote the best welfare of a +Polynesian people.”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f33'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r33'>33</a>. Colonial abbreviation for San Francisco.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f34'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r34'>34</a>. Capital of Fiji.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f35'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r35'>35</a>. An explanation which resulted in the complete exoneration of Captain Aube, +and his appointment to the command of La Savoie,—a finer vessel than that from +which he had been so summarily dismissed.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f36'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r36'>36</a>. The good bishop had the satisfaction of reaching <i>la belle France</i>, and there +effectually pleading the cause of his friend, ere he laid down the burden of life, +which he had borne with so much anxious care for the weal of his people. He +died very shortly after his return to Europe.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f37'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r37'>37</a>. King Pomare II. was the first person who was publicly baptised in Tahiti. +The service took place on 16th July 1819.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f38'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r38'>38</a>. <i>Vahine</i>, a woman.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f39'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r39'>39</a>. And in this year of 1882 still continue to crop up, greatly to the benefit of the +lawyers, who find in the affairs of the Estate Brander, a harvest far too remunerative +to be lightly abandoned.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f40'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r40'>40</a>. Soon after my return to England, I heard that this happy home had been invaded +by ophthalmia of a virulent type, necessitating an immediate return to +France, and long and anxious care; but nevertheless resulting in the partial blindness +for life of two of those merry boys. Even the Tahitian paradise has its +thorns.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f41'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r41'>41</a>. The late Sir Archibald Dunbar of Northfield, in the county of Elgin, married, +firstly, my father’s sister, Miss Gordon Cumming of Altyre and Gordonstown; +and secondly, Miss Brander, heiress of Pitgaveny, whom, consequently, we have +known all our lives, and loved much.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f42'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r42'>42</a>. Pandanus.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f43'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r43'>43</a>. My soul is defiled with sin.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f44'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r44'>44</a>. <i>Musa uranascopus.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f45'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r45'>45</a>. <i>Acanthaster solaris.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f46'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r46'>46</a>. <i>Acrocladia mamillata.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f47'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r47'>47</a>. <i>Conus textilis.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f48'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r48'>48</a>. Let not the nations of the West sneer at these superstitions of the East. Faith +in the efficacy of the king’s touch as a cure for scrofula was implicit both in France +and England for many a long year. So early as <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 481 it was practised by Clovis. +And it is recorded that on Easter Day, 1686, Louis XIV. touched 1600 persons, +saying to each, “<span lang="fr">Le roy te touche, Dieu te guérisse!</span>” This singular divine right +was first claimed in England by Edward the Confessor in 1058, and his successors +carried it on. Charles I. did, on St John’s Day, 1633, visit Holyrood Chapel, +where “he heallit 100 persons, young and old, of the cruelles or king’s evil.” +Charles II. actually touched 92,107 such patients—being an average of 12 per diem +for twenty years. His exchequer must have suffered by this kingly privilege, as he +presented a broad gold piece to each sufferer. The touch of Queen Elizabeth was +declared “a sure relief when all other methods have failed.” Henry VIII., not +content with miraculously curing all scrofula patients, also healed those afflicted +with cruel cramps. Dr Johnson speaks of his earliest recollections of Queen Anne, +into whose awful presence he had been ushered in his infancy, that by her royal +touch she might cure him of his sore disease! The office appointed by the Church +to be said on these occasions was actually retained in the English liturgy till 1719, +when it was omitted by command of George I. But so late as 1745 many of the +Jacobite party came secretly to Charles Edward, to crave his healing touch. See +‘From the Hebrides to the Himalayas’ (C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. i. p. 264.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f49'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r49'>49</a>. <i>Dracæna terminalis.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f50'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r50'>50</a>. <i>Asplenium nidus.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f51'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r51'>51</a>. Which proved to be the exact state of the case.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f52'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r52'>52</a>. All of which I found to be strictly true. Undoubtedly, the ideal Pacific Isles +lie south of the equator.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f53'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r53'>53</a>. We can scarcely describe this proceeding as the <i>thin</i> end of the wedge, but it +was obvious from the beginning that the assumption of the Protectorate was merely +a cloak for forcibly taking possession of these gems of the Pacific. <i>The cloak was +finally thrown aside in June 1880, when King Pomare V. was persuaded by the +commandant to cede the nominal sovereignty of the isles to those who had so long +held its reality</i>, and to accept a life-pension of 12,000 dollars a year, which he +might enjoy in peace in his own fashion, and so escape from the continual tutoring, +which made his kingly rank a wearisome burden, devoid of all honour.</p> + +<p class='c008'><i>The annexation of Tahiti was formally proclaimed in Papeete on 24th March +1881</i>, and was made the occasion of a brilliant festival, such as the light-hearted +crowds are ever ready to welcome. Great were the official rejoicings. From every +ship in the harbour, and every corner of the town, floated the tricolour, which +likewise adorned the raven tresses of the women and the button-holes of the men. +Great was the noise of big guns, and the amount of powder expended on salutes. +An imposing column of all branches of the service—sailors and marines, marine +artillery, with their guns, infantry, and gendarmes—marched round the town, +headed by the band: “<span lang="fr">A Tahiti, comme en France, on aime à voir passer nos +soldats</span>,” says the ‘<span lang="fr">Messager de Tahiti</span>.’ So the lovely town was <i>en fête</i>. Every +<i>himène</i> chorus had arrived from every corner of the isles, making the whole air +musical. Thousands of natives, all in their brightest, freshest dresses, kept up incessant +movement in the clear sunlight or cool shade. Everywhere games and +feasting were the order of the day. In the governor’s beautiful gardens, a brilliant +banquet for upwards of a hundred persons was served in a great tent, all as graceful +as the combined taste of France and Tahiti could make it. Then followed a +lovely garden festival, just such as that described by “The Earl and the Doctor,” +a gay ball for the leading inhabitants, while “the people” danced no less joyously +on the green, outside the sacred precincts. Games, music, dancing, and feasting, +with a night of brilliant illuminations and fireworks,—all these, combined with +lovely surroundings and perfect weather, made the great official festival of Tahiti a +day which the French naval officers very naturally consider one to be remembered +for ever, but which, perchance, may have caused some of the older inhabitants an +angry and bitter pang, for the independence of their country thus lost for ever.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f54'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r54'>54</a>. Immediately alter the declaration of the annexation of the Society Isles, comes +the news that <i>the French have also annexed the Gambier Isles</i>, which lie to the +south-west, in the direction of Pitcairn’s Isle. <i>Our Gallic friends have thus secured +a very admirable semicircle of the four finest groups in the Eastern Pacific.</i> Here +they can now consolidate their strength, and await the influx of commerce which +must of necessity pass through this <i>cordon</i>, <i>when M. Lesseps shall have opened the +Panama Canal for the traffic of the world</i>.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Here French ships will touch on their way to and from the Loyalty Isles and +Cochin-China; while ships of all nations, plying between Europe and Australasia, +will necessarily pass the same way, and contribute their quota to the wealth of the +French Pacific.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The Gambier Islands have been gradually prepared for their adoption by France, +the Catholic Mission having there ruled supreme for some twenty years.</p> + +<p class='c008'>Till quite recently, the Bible has been a prohibited book, but now, of the few +remaining natives, a large proportion are learning to read Tahitian, in order to be +able to study the Scriptures for themselves; and the Protestant Mission in Tahiti +has responded to this desire, by sending copies of the New Testament for gratuitous +distribution in the group. From one cause or another, however, a very small +number of natives now exist, the islands having become wellnigh depopulated.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f55'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r55'>55</a>. Although the French have had possession of the group for so many years, the +natives of some of the islands have never been really in subjection to the authorities +until last year, when Admiral Bergasse du Petit Thouars visited the group, and +with the aid of volunteers, natives of Tahiti, and of the friendly isles of Marquesas, +succeeded in disarming and bringing into subjection the hostile tribes, and that +without firing a shot.</p> + +<p class='c008'>The admiral himself headed the troops across the mountains from village to +village, arriving one night on the coast about midnight, having been conducted by +natives who knew the passes: these passes were lighted up by the electric light +from the frigate, which was anchored in the bay. The French took 600 muskets +from the natives of the two islands, Hiva-oa and Fatuhiva. They say that the +natives are really not a bad sort of people, but their curse, like that of all the +islands, is “<i>drink</i>.” This, and the conduct of unprincipled foreigners, has been +the real cause of all the trouble.</p> + +<p class='c008'>I affix a note which I copy from the ‘<span lang="fr">Messager de Tahiti</span>’ for 30th of July 1880, +which is all that has appeared in the paper on the subject:—</p> + +<p class='c008'>“<span lang="fr">Le Contre-Amiral commandant en chef le corps expéditionnaire aux Marquises, +témoigne aux volontaires Tahitiens, aux volontaires Marquisiens, aux militaires de +toutes armes, ainsi qu’aux marins qui ont pris part à l’expédition des Marquises, +toute sa satisfaction.</span></p> + +<p class='c008'>“<span lang="fr">Grâce à leur esprit militaire, à leur dévouement et à leur discipline, l’île de +Hiva-oa et celle de Fatuhiva ont été rapidement soumises et désarmés, et la paix +régne partout aux Marquises.</span>”</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f56'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r56'>56</a>. Sun-dried nut, exported for the manufacture of oil.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f57'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r57'>57</a>. <i>Holothuroides.</i> Chinese name, <i>Tripang</i>.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f58'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r58'>58</a>. The question was decided in her favour. She has been refitted and renamed +and now sails the Pacific as the Annie Johnson.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f59'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r59'>59</a>. I do not by this mean to suggest any trace of a common origin, merely founded +on ancestor-worship, which prevailed in almost all countries, and which in the +Pacific is to this day practised by the Papuan races. The islanders of the Torres +Straits, in common with those of the Line islands, worship the skulls of their +ancestors, and treasure them in their huts as reverently as did the Tahitians in +heathen days.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f60'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r60'>60</a>. For a trace of this custom, as practised in the Marquesas, see p. 257.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f61'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r61'>61</a>. Whence has developed the Torii.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f62'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r62'>62</a>. This is emphatically true of Fijian. See ‘At Home in Fiji,’ vol. i. p. 136.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f63'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r63'>63</a>. <i>Calophyllum inophyllum.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f64'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r64'>64</a>. <i>Entada scandens.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f65'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r65'>65</a>. If any are disposed to doubt this statement, they have only to refer to the +circumstantial and thoroughly authenticated accounts published by the various +missionary societies; those, for instance, of the American Board, which again and +again, in the early days of the mission to the Sandwich Isles, have occasion to +refer to the outrages committed by British and American seamen, who came in +armed bands to attack the mission stations, in their rage at the influence acquired +by the missionaries, and the consequent change in the morals of the people. Again +and again life and property were threatened, and the mission premises were only +saved from destruction by the timely arrival of determined chiefs and their retainers.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f66'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r66'>66</a>. The gods also were supposed to feed on the essence of the food offered to them. +Every evening the priest in the principal temple of Mangaia cooked an ovenful of +<i>taro</i> for their use, and threw one root at a time into the scrub, dedicating each to +one of the gods. When the thirteen principal deities had thus been recognised the +priest threw one more, as an offering to all the lesser gods, of whose names and +attributes he was ignorant. This ceremony exactly answers to one which I have +seen practised at the Buddhist monasteries in China, where, ere the monks taste +their own food, a small portion is set aside on a pillar, as an offering to any saintly +or divine beings whom they have neglected in their temple-worship.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f67'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r67'>67</a>. <i>Erythrina corallodendrum.</i></p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f68'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r68'>68</a>. The next I saw were at the British Legation in Pekin, where they were objects +of intense interest, as being probably the first ever grown in the Celestial Empire.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f69'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r69'>69</a>. The Malay apple, familiar to us in Fiji as the <i>kaveeka</i>.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f70'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r70'>70</a>. Just before leaving Tahiti, I bestowed equal care on three cases containing +6000 stones, which were carried by sailing-ship to New Zealand and thence to +Fiji. Their arrival there was anxiously expected, and all arrangements made for +their speedy distribution throughout the group. Alas! alas! when, after long +delays, the cases were opened, they were found to contain a mass of decay; poor +dead plants, which had sprouted during the voyage, and straightway died. When +this sad news reached me, I bethought me sorrowfully of the advice given me by +Monseigneur Janssen—namely, that as plants require light and air to enable them +to sprout, I would do well to compel them to sleep by packing them in soot, and +then having the case carefully caulked. The mess involved in such work was so +horrible, that I shrank from undertaking it, but I bequeath the good advice to my +successors in the attempt.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f71'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r71'>71</a>. Paloma—a dove.</p> +</div> +<div class='footnote' id='f72'> +<p class='c008'><a href='#r72'>72</a>. <span lang="de">Der stille Tag.</span></p> +</div> + +<div class='pbb'> + <hr class='pb c002'> +</div> +<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'> + +<div class='chapter ph2'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + + <ul class='ul_1 c005'> + <li>Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + + </li> + <li>Used numbers for footnotes, placing them all at the end of the last chapter. + </li> + </ul> + +</div> + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77356 ***</div> + </body> + <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57e (with regex) on 2025-10-21 14:15:34 GMT --> +</html> diff --git a/77356-h/images/a0022_frontispiece.jpg b/77356-h/images/a0022_frontispiece.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..548a702 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/a0022_frontispiece.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/cover.jpg b/77356-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4c62674 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p0010_deco.jpg b/77356-h/images/p0010_deco.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..004299b --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p0010_deco.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p0181_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p0181_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..efdb22d --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p0181_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p0282_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p0282_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c13d2e --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p0282_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p1522_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p1522_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6964db3 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p1522_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p1682_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p1682_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b503f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p1682_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p2282_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p2282_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ea0c9c --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p2282_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p2301_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p2301_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c157524 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p2301_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p3241_ill.jpg b/77356-h/images/p3241_ill.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..41a7845 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p3241_ill.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p3670_map.jpg b/77356-h/images/p3670_map.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a75c30 --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p3670_map.jpg diff --git a/77356-h/images/p3670_map_hr.jpg b/77356-h/images/p3670_map_hr.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..96d53cf --- /dev/null +++ b/77356-h/images/p3670_map_hr.jpg |
