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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77356 ***
+
+
+
+
+                            A LADY’S CRUISE
+
+                                  IN A
+
+                           FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR
+
+
+       “The morning watch was come; the vessel lay
+       Her course, and gently made her liquid way;
+       The cloven billow flashed from off her prow
+       In furrows formed, by that majestic plough.
+
+              ·       ·       ·       ·       ·
+
+       ‘Huzza for Otaheite!’ was the cry.
+       The gentle island and the genial soil,
+       The friendly hearts, the feasts without a toil,
+       The courteous manners, but from nature caught,
+       The wealth unhoarded, and the love unbought.
+
+              ·       ·       ·       ·       ·
+
+       The soil where every cottage showed a home,
+       The sea-spread net, the lightly launched canoe,
+       Which stemmed the studded archipelago
+       O’er whose blue bosom rose the starry isles.
+       And sweetly now, those untaught melodies
+       Broke the luxurious silence of the skies,
+       The sweet siesta of a summer day,
+       The tropic afternoon of Toobonai,
+       When every flower was bloom, and air was balm,
+       And the first breath began to stir the palm.”
+
+              ·       ·       ·       ·       ·
+
+                                       —_The Island_: LORD BYRON.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  PAPEETE. CAPITAL OF TAHITI.
+]
+
+
+
+
+                            A LADY’S CRUISE
+                                  IN A
+                           FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR
+
+
+                                   BY
+
+                          C. F. GORDON CUMMING
+
+           AUTHOR OF ‘AT HOME IN FIJI,’ ‘FROM THE HEBRIDES TO
+                          THE HIMALAYAS,’ ETC.
+
+
+                  NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME
+
+                      _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+
+                       WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
+                          EDINBURGH AND LONDON
+                              MDCCCLXXXII
+
+
+                         _All Rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+                             INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+When, in the spring of 1875, Sir Arthur Hamilton Gordon was appointed
+first Governor of Fiji, I had the good fortune to be invited to form one
+of the party who accompanied Lady Gordon to that far country.
+
+Two years slipped away, brimful of interest, and each month made me feel
+more ‘At Home in Fiji,’ more fascinated with its lovely scenery, more
+content to linger among its isles.
+
+Then a counter-charm was brought to bear upon the spell which held me
+thus entranced. The chief magician appeared in the guise of a high
+ecclesiastic of the Roman Church, clothed in purple, and wearing the
+mystic ring and cross of amethyst; while his coadjutor, a French
+gentleman of the noble old school, was the commander of a large French
+man-of-war, which had been placed at the service of the Bishop of Samoa,
+to enable him to visit all the most remote portions of his diocese.
+Already this warlike mission-ship had peacefully touched at many points
+of exceeding beauty and interest, and our visitors had no sooner
+recognised my keen appreciation of scenery, and inveterate love of
+sketching, than they formally and most cordially invited me to complete
+_le tour de la mission_, and so fill fresh portfolios with reminders of
+the beautiful scenes which the vessel was about to visit.
+
+Being duly imbued with a British conviction that such an invitation
+could not possibly be a _bonâ fide_ one, I at first treated it merely as
+a polite form; but when it was again and again renewed, in such terms as
+to leave no possible doubt of its sincerity, and when, moreover, we
+learnt that the most comfortable cabin in the ship had actually been
+prepared for the invited guest, and that its owner was thoroughly in
+earnest in his share of the invitation, then indeed we agreed that the
+chance was too unique to be lost; and so it came to pass that on the 5th
+September 1877 I started on the cruise in a French man-of-war, which
+proved one of the most delightful episodes in many years of travel.
+
+
+
+
+                       NOTE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
+                      THE KEY TO THE PANAMA CANAL.
+
+
+While these pages were passing through the press, I have received
+details from various sources, which prove that the policy referred to at
+p. 241 is being actively carried out.
+
+Not content with holding the Marquesas, the Paumotus, Tahiti, and the
+Gambier Isles, France seems resolved to annex every desirable island
+lying to the east of Samoa, thus securing possession of every good
+harbour and coaling station lying between New Zealand and the coast of
+South America; and also, diverting all the trade of these isles, from
+Britain’s Australian colonies, to a French centre, which shall command
+the great commercial highway of the future, when the Panama Canal shall
+be completed. Raiatea in the Society Isles has recently been formally
+annexed, and the independence of Huahine and Bora-Bora threatened.
+
+Now a further step is contemplated. The Austral and Hervey groups still
+remain free. They are self-governed, and Christianity is firmly
+established among their people.
+
+According to the latest information, a French man-of-war visited their
+principal isles last August, to command the inhabitants to divert their
+present trade from New Zealand to Tahiti, assuring them that Great
+Britain had undertaken not to interfere with French action anywhere to
+the east of Samoa. The islanders, who had at first received the French
+vessel with all honour, no sooner got an inkling of the true object of
+its visit than they became alarmed, and returned all presents which had
+been made to them by the captain; who thereupon assured them that the
+French admiral was on his way thither, and would soon bring them to
+their bearings, and that they would have to accept a French
+protectorate.
+
+Remembering the history of French protection in Tahiti, the Australs and
+Hervey Islanders are now justly alarmed for their own independence.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS.
+
+
+                               CHAPTER I.
+                                                                    PAGE
+ Letter to England announcing start from Fiji—Vague plans,             1
+
+
+                               CHAPTER II.
+
+ Life in a French man-of-war—Convent-life in Tonga—Early
+   martyrs—Wesleyan mission—Roman Catholic mission—Cyclopean tombs
+   at Mua—Gigantic trilithon—Fines and taxes—King George Tupou,        3
+
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+
+ Sail from Tonga to Vavau—Volcano of Tofua—Wesleyan mission—Two
+   thousand miles from a doctor—Orange-groves—A lovely sea
+   lake—Coral caves,                                                  24
+
+
+                               CHAPTER IV.
+
+ Life on board ship—The Wallis Isles—Fotuna—Sunday Isle—Cyclopean
+   remains on Easter Isle—Stone adzes—Samoa—Pango-Pango harbour,      33
+
+
+                               CHAPTER V.
+
+ Boat transit to Leone—Spouting caves—Council of war—Sketch of
+   Samoan history—Night dances,                                       48
+
+
+                               CHAPTER VI.
+
+ A shore without a reef—Samoan plants—Houses—Animals—Laying
+   foundation-stone of a church—School festival—the Navigator’s
+   Isles,                                                             61
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VII.
+
+ Vanquished chiefs of the Puletoa faction under protection of the
+   union-jack—Convent school—“Bully” Hayes—Postal difficulties—House
+   of Godeffroy—Village of Mulinunu—Vegetables and fish—Advantages
+   of Anglo-American companies,                                       74
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ The Ishmaelites of the Pacific—Injudicious intervention—Fa-Samoa
+   picnic—A torchlight walk—Training college at Malua—Apt
+   illustrations by native preachers—Dr Turner—Mission to the New
+   Hebrides—Escape to Samoa—Of many changes on many isles,            89
+
+
+                               CHAPTER IX.
+
+ A sketch of the Samoan mission—The Rev. John Williams determines
+   to visit the Navigator’s Isles—Preliminary work in the Hervey
+   group—Discovery of Rarotonga—Conversion of its people—They help
+   Williams to build a ship which shall convey him to Samoa—Visit
+   Tonga—Proceed to Samoa—Overthrow of idolatry—Reverence for old
+   mats—Williams’s grave at Apia,                                    118
+
+
+                               CHAPTER X.
+
+ Leave Samoa—Reach Tahiti—Grey shadows—Death of Queen Pomare—La
+   Loire and her passengers—A general dispersion—Life ashore at
+   Papeete—Admiral Serre and the royal family—Families of Salmon
+   and Brander—Adoption,                                             148
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XI.
+
+ Papeete—Catholic mission—Protestant mission—A christening party—La
+   Maison Brandère—Tales of the past—Evenings in Tahiti—La
+   musique—Plans—Sunday,                                             164
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XII.
+
+ Short sketch of a royal progress round Tahiti,                      177
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIII.
+
+ The royal progress round Tahiti—Life day by day—_Himènes_—A
+   beautiful shore—Manufacture of arrowroot flowers—A deserted
+   cotton plantation—Tahitian dancing—The Areois—Vanilla
+   plantations—Fort of Taravao,                                      182
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIV.
+
+ The royal progress round Tahiti (_continued_)—French fort at
+   Taravou—The peninsula—Life in bird-cage houses—Torchlight
+   procession—Return to Papeete,                                     198
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XV.
+
+ The semaphore—Immutable tides—The coral-reef—Spearing
+   fish—Netting—Catching sharks—A royal mausoleum—Superstitions of
+   East and West—Centipedes—Intoxicating drinks—Influenza—Death of
+   Mrs Simpson,                                                      210
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVI.
+
+ The royal progress round Moorea—The Seignelay starts for the
+   Marquesas and Paumotus—Indecision,                                226
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVII.
+
+ Vain regrets—Some account of the Marquesas and the Paumotu groups,  236
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+ Tahitian hospitality—A South Sea store—A bathing picnic—The
+   Marquesans—Tattooing—Ancient games of Tahiti—Malay
+   descent—Theory of a northerly migration,                          267
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIX.
+
+ Life in Papeete—The market—Churches—Country life in the South
+   Seas,                                                             286
+
+
+                               CHAPTER XX.
+
+ Visit to the Protestant mission on Moorea—A sketch of the early
+   history of the mission,                                           294
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXI.
+
+ A healing tree—Plantation life—Vanilla crops—Cat-and-dog life—A
+   foiled assassin—The tropics of to-day—England in days of
+   yore—Among the crags—Infanticide—Heathen days,                    310
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXII.
+
+ Life on Moorea—An ancient place of sacrifice—Arrival of H.M.S.
+   Shah—Hospitalities on land and water,                             322
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+ The atoll group of Tetiaroa,                                        335
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+ New Year’s Day in Tahiti—Ascent of Fautawa valley—Of palm salads,
+   screw-pines, and bread-fruit—Packing mango-stones—Return of
+   Gilbert Islanders—Departure of the Seignelay,                     339
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXV.
+
+ Hurricane at the Paumotus—Mahena plantation—Watching for
+   vessels—Farewell to Tahiti,                                       353
+
+
+
+
+                         LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                                                     PAGE
+               PAPEETE—CAPITAL,            _Frontispiece_
+               TRILITHON, TONGA,                       18
+               A CORAL CAVE, VAVAU,                    29
+               OPUNOHU BAY, MOOREA,                   153
+               LE DIADÈME,                            169
+               A ROYAL RECEPTION, HAAPITI,            229
+               PAO PAO, OR COOK’S BAY,                230
+               ANCIENT MARAI,                         324
+               MAP,                          _At the end_
+
+
+                                 NOTE.
+
+The “Wa Kalou,”—_i.e._, “Fern of God,”—introduced on the cover of this
+book, is a most delicate climbing fern which overtwines tall trees and
+shrubs in the Pacific Isles, forming a misty veil of indescribable
+loveliness. When in the state of fructification, each leaf is edged with
+a dotted fringe of brown seed. In the Fijian Isles its beauty has gained
+for it the name here given; and in olden days the ridge-poles of the
+temples were wreathed with it, as those of chiefs’ houses are to this
+day. It also finds favour for personal adornment, trailing garlands of
+this exquisite green being singularly becoming to a clear brown skin.
+
+
+
+
+                A LADY’S CRUISE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER I.
+       LETTER TO ENGLAND ANNOUNCING START FROM FIJI—VAGUE PLANS.
+
+
+                                         NASOVA, FIJI, _5th Sept. 1877_.
+
+MY DEAR EISA,—I have only time for a line, to enclose a packet of seed
+of a lovely shrub which bears clusters of golden bells. Also to tell you
+that I am just starting for a cruise in a French man-of-war, the
+Seignelay, commanded by Captain Aube, who is taking Monseigneur Elloi,
+the Roman Catholic Bishop of Samoa, a round of his diocese. Both are
+exceedingly pleasant, and have made themselves much liked here. The
+officers are a particularly gentlemanlike set. Judge of my amazement
+(accustomed to the rigid regulations of the English navy), when these,
+as one man, echoed an invitation given to me by the commander, to go for
+a cruise over half the South Seas, where they purpose touching at many
+isles, which I could by no possibility have any other chance of seeing.
+Several of these most kind friends had placed their cabins at the
+disposal of the captain, that he might offer me whichever he considered
+most suitable. For the first day or two after this invitation was made,
+we all treated it as a pleasant joke, never imagining that it could be
+quite in earnest; but when at length we all became convinced that it
+really was so, we agreed that there really could be no reason for
+refusing so rare a chance of an expedition, which will be to me most
+delightful.
+
+So I am actually to embark this afternoon, Lady Gordon and dear little
+sailor Jack, and Captain Knollys, accompanying me on board, to see me
+fairly started.
+
+This evening we sail for the Friendly Isles (Tonga), and thence proceed
+to the Navigator’s Isles (Samoa), where there have been serious
+disturbances, and where my friend Mrs Liardet, wife of the British
+Consul, has for some time had about thirty chiefs living in sanctuary in
+her house. I have long promised to visit her, should an opportunity
+arise, so this is an admirable one. I shall probably take a return
+passage thence in a German ship, and rejoin Lady Gordon at Loma Loma, a
+point in this group, about one hundred miles from here.
+
+My French friends urge my going on to Tahiti, the loveliest isle in the
+South Seas; but the utter uncertainty of how to get back thence, either
+here or to Tasmania, where Lady Gordon hopes to spend Christmas, makes
+me hesitate. If I could reach the Sandwich Isles, I should then be on
+the direct line of the Pacific mail-steamers; but Tahiti is utterly out
+of the world, and till the Seignelay arrives there, she will not receive
+her further orders, and may perhaps be sent to Valparaiso, which has no
+attractions for me. So my line of march is at present somewhat
+undecided. I think I shall almost certainly return here from Samoa; but
+as B. long ago said, of my wandering propensities, that I was just like
+a knotless thread, I may perhaps slip through, and you may hear of my
+vanishing into space!
+
+This place is looking lovely. It has improved wonderfully in these two
+years, and has become so very homelike and pleasant, that I quite grudge
+leaving it, with even the vague feeling of uncertainty which attaches to
+any long journey; and though we all expect to return here, after a
+winter in Tasmania, still, so many contingencies may arise, that one
+always feels a home in the colonies to be a very insecure tenure.
+
+Now I must finish my packing, which requires a good deal of
+consideration in case it _should_ turn out that my locomotive demon
+urges me onward, and that I _do_ visit the Hawaiian Isles, and then
+Tasmania, ere returning here.
+
+I wish you could see my room here, now. It really is a museum—the walls
+covered with trophies of all the strange Fijian things I have collected
+during the last two years. I have just finished a series of about sixty
+studies of Fijian pottery, representing a hundred and fifty pieces, all
+different, and made without any wheel, by the wives of the poor
+fishermen. Some of the forms are most artistic, and the colour is very
+rich. No time for more. I will write next from Tonga.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+LIFE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR—CONVENT-LIFE IN TONGA—EARLY MARTYRS—WESLEYAN
+     MISSION—ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION—CYCLOPEAN TOMBS AT MUA—GIGANTIC
+              TRILITHON—FINES AND TAXES—KING GEORGE TUPOU.
+
+
+                                   ON BOARD LE SEIGNELAY, OFF TONGATABU,
+                                       _Friday, 7th Sept. 1877_.
+
+DEAR LADY GORDON,—I may as well begin a letter at once, in case of a
+chance of posting it by some stray ship, but as yet there is none even
+on the horizon.
+
+Is it possible that it was only last Wednesday afternoon when you and
+Jack left me on board the Seignelay to try an entirely new experiment in
+ship-life—only three days since we ate our first _méringues_ in that
+charming little dining-room, of which I now feel such a thoroughly old
+inhabitant? I can scarcely believe it.
+
+Still more wonderful, is it scarcely a fortnight since I first met the
+amethystine bishop, and this extraordinarily kind captain, who both seem
+like real old friends, as do, indeed, all the people on board, from the
+officers and quartermasters, down to Antoine, the Italian _maître
+d’hôtel_, who takes me under his especial charge, and is as careful as
+any old nurse? I know that if I were sick he would insist on coming to
+the rescue, but as yet he has not had the smallest chance of showing me
+such attentions; for though we had one really rough day, the ship is so
+very large and steady, that you scarcely perceive any motion. You did
+not half see her; she really is a noble vessel, and all her machinery is
+so beautifully kept—such a display of polished brass and steel—brighter
+than on most English men-of-war. Of course I have been duly lionised
+over every corner of her, and I think the most novel sight of all, is
+serving out rations, and seeing wine pumped up from huge vats, to fill
+the small barrels, each of which represents eight men’s daily allowance.
+What immense supplies must be laid in when such a ship starts on a long
+cruise! They are sufficiently startling on board such vessels as the
+Messageries Maritimes, where every soul on board drinks _vin ordinaire_
+at every meal, and where there is daily consumption of about two hundred
+bottles, and the store laid in at Marseilles has to suffice for the
+voyage to Yokohama, and back to Marseilles.
+
+The little cabin assigned to me is charming—so full of natty
+contrivances to make the most of space, and all so pretty. I believe
+that several of our kind friends on board have contributed to make it
+so. One lent a beautifully carved mirror, another a pin-cushion of
+pale-blue silk and lace. Fixed to the wall are fascinating flower-vases
+of black Chilian pottery, brought from Lima, and most delicate little
+_kava_ bowls from the Wallis Isles, now utilised to hold soap, sponge,
+and matches. I find a whole chest of drawers empty, and various shelves,
+which I know can only have been cleared at great inconvenience. A small
+bookcase contains a very nice selection of French and English books—for
+my especial host, M. de Gironde, has travelled a good deal in England
+and in Scotland, and reads English well, as do several of the others.
+Having so generously given me his cabin, he has taken up his abode in
+the chart-room on the bridge, and declares he likes it far better; that
+it is much cooler, and that he never was so comfortable, &c. In short
+(in common with all the others), he tries to make me really feel as if I
+were conferring a huge obligation on the whole party by having come.
+Never were there such hospitable people. I have had a good deal of
+spoiling in the course of my life, but I never had it in such perfection
+as now. Every creature on board is so cordial, that it would be quite
+impossible not to feel so in return. I think my French is improving! I
+can now distinguish the Brétons from the Provençals, and both from the
+Parisians.
+
+The officers are a pleasant, well-informed set, who have travelled with
+their eyes open, and their relations with their fine old captain are
+those of cordial sons with a father. It would be difficult for any one
+accustomed to the rigid stiffness of the British navy to understand such
+a condition. Even the frank kindliness with which sub-officers and men
+are addressed, sounds to me as unusual as it is pleasant. Life on this
+ship seems that of a happy family, with the filial and paternal
+affections unusually well developed, and M. Aube is generally the centre
+of a cheery group, chatting unreservedly on whatever topic may arise.
+
+At least two of the officers are daily invited to breakfast, and two
+others to dinner in the captain’s little cabin, all coming in their
+turn. And six or eight generally come in to evening tea, a ceremony
+which, I suspect, has been instituted specially out of deference to my
+supposed English habits. Besides the bishop and myself, M. Pinart is
+also the captain’s guest, and I find him pleasant and very ready to
+impart his information, which, as you know, is considerable, on all
+scientific matters. The others have little jokes at his expense, and
+declare that he is more of a Yankee than a Frenchman. I can only say the
+combination is good.
+
+The feeding is excellent, beginning with early chocolate. Breakfast is
+at 9 o’clock, and ends with coffee and liqueurs, especially most
+delicious Chartreuse, which some of us in an irreverent whisper call “La
+meilleure œuvre des moines.” Dinner, with similar ending, is at 5
+o’clock, and tea at 8. Antoine has orders to give me luncheon at 1, with
+due respect to English habits; but I find this quite superfluous; so
+that ceremony falls through. By the by, tell A. that his champagne-cup
+produced quite a sensation. It was generally set down as being _de
+l’hydromel_, and the greatest curiosity prevails concerning its
+ingredients, which I, unfortunately, am not able to satisfy.
+
+We are now about 250 miles east of Fiji, and sighted land this
+afternoon; we have just anchored off Tonga, which certainly compares
+unfavourably with our beautiful Fijian isles. This is the dullest,
+flattest land I have yet seen—a low shore, fringed with long lines of
+cocoa-palm, which, seen from the sea, are singularly monotonous. The
+king’s town, Nukualofa, consists of a long row of more or less ugly
+villas, stores, and barracks, built of wood and painted white: one is
+bright-green. The houses are roofed with zinc or shingle, and the
+general effect is that of a new English watering-place. King George’s
+palace is a rather handsome wooden building like a hotel, and is
+reserved for his guests. The Government offices occupy another wooden
+building, and just beyond them is the printing-office, in which a few
+books, a magazine, and an almanac, are printed in the native tongue. A
+large Wesleyan church, painted white, and with a very small steeple,
+stands on a green hill on the site of an old fortification, and close to
+it is the house of Mr Baker, Wesleyan missionary.
+
+About a mile and a half along the shore is another village called
+Maofanga, where there is another Wesleyan church, but it is chiefly a
+Roman Catholic settlement; and near a neat thatched chapel of the true
+Tongan type, I see a long pleasant-looking bungalow, which I am told is
+a convent, the home of a society of French Sisters. To-morrow morning I
+hope to go ashore and see everything.
+
+                  *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                   _Saturday Night_,
+                                   IN MY CELL, CONVENT OF THE IMMACULATE
+                                   CONCEPTION, MAOFANGA.
+
+You see my experiences are rapidly enlarging. I have to-day made my very
+first acquaintance with conventual life, and am greatly interested by
+it, and by the exceedingly ladylike kind women who, at a hint from the
+bishop, invited me to stay with them as long as the ship is in harbour,
+and have given me this clean, tidy wee room, which, though not
+luxurious, is some degrees more so than their own simple cells. I have a
+table, a chair, and a tiny bedstead.
+
+There are only four Sisters. The eldest, Sister Anna, is a very old
+lady, but most courteous and friendly. Sœur Marie des Anges is a cosy
+middle-aged woman, who has lately come from the convent at Samoa to take
+care of Sœur Marie des Cinq Plaies, a sweet, pretty young woman, with a
+terrible cough, and evidently fast dying of consumption. The fourth
+sister, Sœur Marie-Jésu, is Irish. All are most gentle and kind, and
+seem deeply interested in their schools and the care of a large number
+of nice-looking women and children. I think myself most fortunate in
+having been invited to stay here, instead of finding quarters in the
+ugly, pretentious town of foreign houses, which, whatever advantages
+they may possess, are quite opposed to all our predilections in favour
+of native architecture.
+
+The surroundings here are calm and quiet. Through a frame of tall palms,
+with ever-waving fronds, we look to the blue harbour, where the friendly
+big ship lies mirrored—a ship which, to these good Sisters, is a link to
+that dear home-land, _la belle France_, which they do so love, but to
+which they have bidden a long farewell, in devotion to their mission
+work in these far isles. The schoolroom is under the same roof, and full
+of bright intelligent girls. At sunset there were vespers in the church
+close by, and, as the delicate sister was ordered to stay at home, and
+do her part by ringing the Angelus, we sat together and listened to the
+singing, which was very good,—the Tongan rendering of Canticles and
+harmonised Litanies being excellent. The harmonium is played by Père
+Lamaze, who is a good musician. Another father, a fine old Bréton
+priest, is the architect of a handsome wooden church now in process of
+erection. (When the Seignelay touched at the Wallis Isles on their way
+to Fiji, the bishop consecrated a really very fine new church there; and
+as the Roman Catholic Mission in those isles is very strong, there seem
+to have been wonderful rejoicings on the occasion. Among the offerings
+of the people were 150 pigs, which are being gradually consumed by the
+crew.)
+
+This morning, soon after breakfast, Captain Aube landed me, in charge of
+M. Berryer and M. Pinart, to explore the hideous town. The shore-reef is
+so wide that at low tide there is a broad expanse of slimy mud and sharp
+coral; so it was with some difficulty that we effected a landing, just
+below the king’s house, whence floated the flag of Tonga, which is red,
+with a white cross on one corner. King George has a guard of two hundred
+men, some of whom are arrayed in scarlet, and a detachment of these were
+on duty, expecting a formal visit from the captain and the
+bishop,—which, however, did not come off till the afternoon, when there
+was much saluting—twenty-one guns fired from the ship, and twenty-one
+returned.
+
+We naturally made for the highest point of this very flat town—namely,
+the Wesleyan church, which, though it only stands about fifty feet above
+the sea, commands a good bird’s-eye view of its surroundings—thatched
+roofs just seen through luxuriant bread-fruit trees, cocoa-palms, and
+large-leaved bananas, with scarlet hybiscus and rosy oleanders to give
+an occasional touch of colour.
+
+Close to the church is the grave of the commander of an English
+man-of-war, who, forty years ago, allowed his valour to overcome his
+discretion, and himself led an armed force to assist the present King
+George in asserting his claim to the throne. In charging a stockade he
+and several of his men were killed, and an English gun was captured,
+which still lies at the village of Bea, about four miles from here.
+
+Another very sad memory clings to this place—namely, that of the
+barbarous massacre in the year 1799 of three of the very first
+missionaries who ever landed in the South Pacific. A party of ten men
+were sent to Tonga in 1796 by the London Mission, and for three years
+they contrived to hold their ground, till, on the breaking out of a
+civil war, three of their number were murdered, and the others were
+compelled to fly, and conceal themselves as best they could. On this
+occasion, as on almost every other when the lives of Christian teachers
+have been sacrificed, the action of the savages was distinctly due to
+the influence of wicked white men. The culprit at Tonga was an escaped
+English convict, who, having won the ear of the king, persuaded him that
+these men were wizards, and that an epidemic, which was then raging, was
+due to their malignant sorceries. So, at the bidding of this scoundrel,
+the poor savages murdered their true friends.
+
+That any should have escaped was due to the most providential and
+unlooked-for arrival of a ship captured in the Spanish war and brought
+to Tahiti—whence a member of that mission undertook to navigate her to
+New South Wales, on condition she might call at Tongatabu, to see how it
+fared with his brethren in the Friendly Isles. Thus happily were the
+survivors rescued, and the mission abandoned, till the Wesleyans
+ventured to reoccupy the dangerous ground, with what success we well
+know, seeing that to the aid given by their Tongan converts was due much
+of their wonderful progress in Fiji. On the green hill of Nukualofa are
+the graves of those early martyrs, shadowed by dark, mournful casuarina
+trees.
+
+Leaving the church, on the little grassy hill, we descended to the dead
+level, and passed long rows of thatched houses embowered in flowering
+shrubs, with banana and pine-apple gardens. These are the homes of the
+mission students and their families,—all very tidy, and with well-kept
+grass paths and green lawn all round.
+
+All the native houses here are oval in form, having both ends rounded.
+They have the same deep thatch as the Fijian houses, generally of reeds
+or wild sugar-cane. The walls are of plaited cocoa-palm leaves or reeds
+interlaced. The houses have no stone foundation to raise them above the
+damp earth, and in many of the poorer huts the floors are merely strewn
+with dried grass instead of having neat mats, such as the poorest Fijian
+would possess. Only in the wealthier houses did we see coarse mats, made
+of pandanus. In the majority, however, there is an inner room screened
+off to form a separate sleeping corner; and we noticed that the Tongan
+pillow closely resembles that of Fiji, being merely a bit of bamboo
+supported by two legs. The cooking is generally done in a hut by itself,
+built over an oven in the ground; but a good many ovens are _al fresco_,
+and the daily yams, or the pig of high festivals, are baked quite in
+public.
+
+Mr Baker,[1] who is the head of the mission here, was absent, but we
+called on his wife, who received us kindly, and made me a present of a
+pretty Tongan basket and combs. She regretted that she could not offer
+to take me for a drive, her carriage having come to grief. There are all
+manner of vehicles here—wonderful in our eyes after having so long
+looked with reverence on the engineer’s wheel-barrow as the only wheeled
+conveyance in Fiji! There are also a number of horses, descendants of
+those left here by Captain Cook, A.D. 1777, which the Tongans ride at a
+hard gallop, with a tether rope round their necks in lieu of a bridle.
+Finding that Nukualofa was utterly lacking in picturesque incident (at
+least so it appeared to eyes satiated with Fijian beauty of scenery), we
+followed a broad grass path which runs along the shore and intersects
+the isle. Like everything else here, it is in apple-pie order. King
+George is too wise to waste the labour of his subjects, albeit convicts;
+so instead of useless stone-drill or treadmill, all Tongan criminals
+labour for the good of their brethren, eminently to the improvement of
+the isle. How often, in India and Ceylon, when unable to close my ears
+to the monotonous word of command of some police sergeant, “Take up—put
+down,” “Take up—put down,” I have watched the cruel waste of human
+strength expended on lifting a heavy stone, carrying it so many paces,
+and putting it down—and then doing the same thing again, and again, and
+again, in the stifling heat of a tropical sun! Would that our prison
+disciplinarians might borrow a hint of wisdom from this once savage
+Tongan king!
+
+Following the pleasant path, beneath the shadow of greenest bananas,
+with the sunlight streaming in mellow gold through the tall palms far
+overhead, we reached the village of Maofanga, where we found the bishop
+at the house of the Fathers.
+
+Père Lamaze then brought me here to the good Sisters, who received me
+with open arms. The delicate one immediately slipped out to do a little
+preliminary milking, that she might give me a cup of delicious fresh
+milk, and with it she brought me some lovely blossoms from the little
+garden in which the Sisters cultivate tall French lilies and a few other
+flowers to mingle with the abundant pink oleanders, in their church
+decorations.
+
+After vespers, the day’s work being done, they came to my cell, and we
+all sat down on the mats and had a pleasant little gossip. I think that
+a breath from the outside wicked world cannot quite have lost all charm,
+and two at least of these ladies have evidently lived in good French
+society. Now they have gone to their cells, and there is not a sound in
+the quiet night. My door opens on to a verandah leading into the garden,
+and just beyond lies a peaceful burial-ground—neatly kept graves of
+Christian Tongans, some marked with simple crosses, and overgrown with
+flowers.
+
+Now I must say good-night, as to-morrow will be a long day.
+
+                                                          _Monday 10th._
+
+On Sunday morning I was awakened before dawn by hearing the Sisters
+astir. They were lighting their own tiny chapel, where, at sunrise, they
+had an early celebration, in order that they might not be obliged to
+remain fasting till the later service.
+
+At 7.30 they brought me _café au lait_ in my cell, and at 8 we went
+together to high Mass in the large native church. Of course there was a
+very full congregation, as, the better to impress the native mind, all
+the French sailors were paraded, to say nothing of all the officers,
+who, dressed in full uniform, were ranged in a semicircle inside the
+altar-rails, on show—a very trying position, especially to the excellent
+captain, who, though a thoroughly good man, would scarcely be selected
+as a very rigid Catholic. Indeed I cannot think that devotion to the
+Church is a marked characteristic of this mission-ship.
+
+Accustomed only to see the good bishop in his ordinary garb of rusty
+black and faded purple, it was startling to see him assume the gorgeous
+Episcopal vestments of gold brocade with scarlet linings—the mitre,
+which was put off and on so frequently at different parts of the
+service, and all the other ecclesiastical symbols. The friendly priests,
+too, were hard to recognise in their richly brocaded vestments; and I
+confess that to my irreverent eyes the predominance of yellow and
+scarlet, and a good many other things besides, forcibly recalled the
+last gorgeous ritualistic services I had witnessed in many Buddhist
+temples in Ceylon, and on the borders of Thibet. Such impressions tend
+to wandering thoughts, and mine, I fear, are apt to become rather
+“mixed.” Anyhow it was a relief when the scarlet and gold vestments were
+replaced by purple, with beautiful white lace. All the accessories were
+excellent. A native played the harmonium well, and Tongan _enfants de
+chœur_ chanted the service admirably. Altogether the scenic effect was
+striking.
+
+Chairs had been provided for all the foreigners present, and of course I
+sat with the Sisters, though it would have seemed more natural to curl
+up on a mat beside the native women, as we do in Fiji. These Catholic
+Tongans so far retain their former customs, that they continue to sit on
+the ground, although the polished wooden floor, which has replaced the
+soft grass and mats of old days, is not exactly a luxurious seat.
+
+In the Wesleyan churches, which are here built as much as possible on
+ugly foreign models, regular benches are the rule. I trust it will be
+long ere our simple and suitable churches in Fiji are replaced by
+buildings of that sort. I grieve to say that this is by no means the
+only point in which the natives here have departed from primitive
+custom. Not content with the noble work of utterly exterminating
+idolatry and cannibalism, the teachers in these isles are afflicted with
+an unwholesome belief in foreign garments, and by every means in their
+power encourage the adoption of European cloth and unbecoming dresses;
+consequently many of the Tongan men glory in full suits of black, while
+some of the girls appear in gaudy and vulgar hats, trimmed with
+artificial flowers. Imagine these surmounting a halo of spiral curls!
+
+Is it not strange that this admirable mission, which has done such
+magnificent work in these isles, cannot be content to allow its Tongan
+converts the same liberty in outer matters as its wise representatives
+in Fiji allow their congregations? Here the “gold ring and goodly
+apparel” are promoted to the foremost stiff benches. There the
+distracting “care for raiment” is reduced to a minimum, and all the
+people kneel together devoutly, on the soft accustomed mats, in houses
+of the same type as their cool pleasant homes, without a thought that a
+building of a European type, with hard uncomfortable seats, and
+unbecoming foreign clothes, can render their prayer and praise more
+acceptable to their Father in heaven.
+
+Nothing astonishes me more, in reading any of the early missionary
+records of grand work done in these seas, than the frequent laudatory
+allusions to the general adoption by the converts of some fearful and
+wonderful head-dress, in imitation of the hideous bonnets of our
+grandmothers, and worn by the wives of the early missionaries. Immense
+praise was bestowed on the ingenious females who, under the direction of
+those excellent women, succeeded in manufacturing coal-scuttle bonnets
+of cocoa-palm leaves. Still more startling was the same monstrous form,
+when cunningly joined pieces of thin tortoise-shell were the materials
+used to imitate the brown silk bonnet of England! We may well rejoice
+that these horrors are no longer an integral feature of Christianity in
+the South Seas! It is sufficiently dreadful to see the ultra
+“respectable” classes donning coats, waistcoats, and trousers.
+
+Immediately after service I returned to luncheon on board, to be ready
+to start with Monseigneur Elloi for Mua, which is the principal Roman
+Catholic station here, distant about twelve miles. A large man-of-war
+boat with twelve rowers carried the bishop’s party, which consisted of
+two Fathers, and four of the ship’s officers. Several others got horses
+and rode across the isle. A party of Tongan students filled another
+boat. Wind, tide, and current being against us, the journey took three
+hours. It is a dreary coast, everywhere bound by a wide expanse of
+villanous shore-reef, which makes landing simply impossible. The
+approach to Mua is by a channel which seemed to me several miles long,
+and is like a river cut through the reef, which edges it on either side.
+Here we rowed against a sweeping current, and the men had hard work to
+make way.
+
+On reaching Mua we found the riders awaiting us, and a great procession
+of priests, headed by Père Chevron, a fine grey-haired old man, who has
+been toiling here for thirty-five years. Scarlet and white-robed
+acolytes and others, carried really handsome flags and banners. Their
+chanting was excellent. They escorted the bishop to the beautiful Tongan
+church, which is a building of purely native type, with heavy thatch,
+and all the posts, beams, and other timbers are fastened together
+without the use of a single nail. All are tied with strong vines from
+the forests, and plaited over with sennit—_i.e._, string of divers
+fibres,—of hybiscus, cocoa-palm, pandanus, and other plants, ranging in
+colour through all shades of yellow, brown, and black. These are laid on
+in beautiful and most intricate patterns, and form a very effective and
+essentially Polynesian style of decoration. The altar, which is entirely
+of native manufacture, is really very fine. It is made of various island
+woods, inlaid with whales’-tooth ivory and mother-of-pearl. All the
+decorations in this church are in excellent taste, and bespeak most
+loving care. Here, as at Maofanga, comfort is sacrificed to appearance
+by the substitution of a polished wooden floor for the accustomed mats.
+I cannot say I think this an improvement, as it is a hard seat during a
+long service.
+
+However, on this occasion I did not experience its discomfort, for,
+shocking to say, in view of the example to the natives, none of us
+attended the service, but all went off at once, guided by M. Pinart
+(whose antiquarian instincts had already led him thither), to the tombs
+of the Toui Tongas, the old kings of Tonga. They are formed of gigantic
+blocks of volcanic rock, said to have been brought to these flat isles
+from the Wallis group. They are laid in three courses of straight lines,
+like cyclopean walls, and lie at intervals through the bush. They are
+much overgrown with tangled vegetation, especially with the
+widespreading roots of many banyan trees, and though wonderful, are not
+sketchable.
+
+In olden days, when the Toui-Tonga was here laid to his rest, his
+favourite wife and most valued possessions were buried with him. All his
+subjects, young and old, male and female, shaved their heads and mourned
+for four months. Those engaged in preparing his sacred body for the
+grave were obliged to live apart for ten months, as being _tabu_ or
+sacred.
+
+When the corpse had been deposited on this great burial-mound, all the
+men, women, and children assembled, and sat round in a great circle,
+bearing large torches made of dried palm-leaves. Six of the principal
+men then walked several times round and round the place of burial, in
+sunwise procession, waving the blazing torches on high; finally, these
+were extinguished and laid on the ground. Then all the people arose and
+made the sunwise circuit of the royal tombs, as has been done from the
+earliest days, by men of all nations and colours,[2] and then they, too,
+extinguished the emblematic torches, and laid them on the earth, in
+memory of him whose flame of life had passed away for ever from the poor
+dead clay. This ceremony was repeated on fourteen successive nights.
+
+The mystery in all antiquities of this sort lies in the problem, how a
+race possessed only of stone adzes could possibly have hewn these huge
+blocks in the first instance, and how they then transported them on
+their frail canoes across wide distances of open sea. Tombs of the same
+character were common to all these groups, and were called _marais_.
+They combined the purpose of mausoleums of the chiefs, and of temples
+where human and other sacrifices were offered.
+
+Some of them were of gigantic dimensions. Captain Cook described one at
+Papara in Tahiti, which consisted of an immense pyramid, 267 feet long
+by 87 wide, standing on a pavement measuring 360 feet by 354. On its
+summit stood a wooden image of a bird, and a fish carved in stone,
+representing the creatures especially reverenced by that tribe.
+
+The pyramid was, in fact, a huge cairn of round pebbles, “which, from
+the regularity of their figure, seem to have been wrought.” It was faced
+with great blocks of white coral, neatly squared and polished, and laid
+in regular courses, forming eleven great steps, each of which was 4 feet
+high, so that the height of the pile was 44 feet. Some of these stones
+were upwards of 3 feet in length and 2½ in width. The pavement on which
+the pyramid was built was of volcanic rock, also hewn into shape, some
+of the stones being even larger than the coral blocks, and all perfectly
+joined together, without mortar.
+
+As Captain Cook found no trace of any quarry in the neighbourhood, he
+inferred that these blocks must have been carried from a considerable
+distance; and even the coral with which the pyramid was faced, lies at
+least three feet under the water. The question, therefore, which puzzled
+him, as it does us this day, was, how did these savages, ignorant of all
+mechanical appliances, and possessing no iron tools, contrive to hew
+these wonderful _marais_, which were the temples and tombs of every
+Polynesian group? The majority were pulled to pieces by the natives when
+they abandoned idolatry, but happily for the antiquarian, some of the
+tombs of the mighty dead escaped these over-zealous reformers; and
+though the coral altars are no longer polluted by human blood, the grey
+ruins still remain, now overgrown by forest-trees, and more solemn in
+their desolation than when those hideous rites were practised by the
+poor savages at the bidding of ruthless priests.
+
+In the course of our walk we saw some lovely little pigeons,
+bright-green with purple head, and a number of larger ones, green and
+yellow. Also many small bats skimming about the cocoa-palms, darting to
+and fro in pursuit of the insects which make their home in the crown of
+the tree. Towards dusk a multitude of fruit-bats with soft fur appeared,
+flapping on heavy wing, and feeding on the flowers of various tall
+trees. We also noticed a number of tree swifts, reminding us forcibly of
+our own swallows: like them they skim airily about the houses, but
+instead of resting under the eaves, they seek a safer home in the tall
+palms.
+
+Returning to the village, we lingered beneath the fine old trees known
+as Captain Cook’s, till summoned by the Fathers to supper at their
+house, which stands close to the church. They gave us the best they
+had,—namely, salt-junk and villanously cooked cabbage, whereat their
+naval guests secretly groaned, and bewailed the excellent _cuisine_ they
+had left on board; but to these good ascetics such fare seemed too
+luxurious, so, although it was Sunday, and a great festival, they would
+taste nothing but a few slices of yam. I find them most interesting
+companions, having been so long in the isles, that they are familiar
+with all details of native manners and customs. The old Père Chevron is
+particularly pleasant. He has worked here for several years longer than
+our good old friend Père Bréhéret of Levuka, to whom he bade me send his
+loving greetings, which I hope you will deliver.
+
+After supper with the Fathers, a kind Scotchwoman, Mrs Barnard, the only
+white woman in the place, came to take me to her house for the night,
+where she made me most comfortable, though I could not but fear that she
+and her husband had given me their own room. He is agent for a
+merchant’s house in the colonies. I found my hostess was a Cameron from
+Lochaber, who has retained her pure Gaelic tongue, and speaks both it
+and English with the sweet intonation ascribed to the Princess of Thule.
+Great was her delight when she learnt the real name of her guest, and
+many a pleasant reminiscence she had to tell of certain of my own
+nearest kindred.... We talked of mutual friends in the dear old north
+and on the west coast, and many a touching memory was reawakened for us
+both. Verily the ends of the world are bound by tender human links!
+
+My hostess was herself astir long before dawn, to prepare breakfast for
+her countrywoman, as I was to make an early expedition with my French
+friends to Haamonga, distant about eight miles, to see a wonderful
+trilithon. The Fathers lent us their dogcart, but had no horse. However,
+they succeeded in borrowing one, which M. Pinart volunteered to drive.
+It proved a brisk trotter, and we sped along cheerily. Most of the
+others rode, escorted by two _kanaques_—a word which, though it simply
+means “a man,” is used by the French as a generic term for all manner of
+islanders in North and South Pacific.
+
+It was a lovely morning and a delightful drive, over a good broad grass
+road—the bush on either side fragrant with jessamine, and the trees in
+many places matted with such tangles of large, brilliantly blue
+convolvulus as I have seen nowhere else but in the Himalayas. The lilac
+marine ipomæa abounds everywhere, and we passed dense masses of the
+large-leaved white sort. From these lovely hiding-places flashed green
+pigeons and blue kingfishers, startled by our approach. Tall sugar-cane,
+wild ginger with scarlet blossom, and blue clitoria, with here and there
+a clump of glossy bananas or quaint papawa, kept up the tropical
+character of the vegetation.
+
+We had no difficulty in finding the great dolmen of which we were in
+search. It stands on a grassy lawn, surrounded by bush, and is certainly
+a remarkable object. It differs from all other trilithons I have seen or
+heard of, in that the two supporting pillars are cut out at the top to
+secure the transverse capstone, which is hewn.
+
+The height above ground is 15 feet, length 18 feet, and the width 12
+feet. Nothing whatever is known concerning its origin, and the natives
+have apparently no tradition concerning it.
+
+This is the only rude stone monument I have seen in the Pacific, but I
+am told that others have been observed in different groups, though on a
+smaller scale; for instance, in the Society Isles, where the great altar
+of the principal _marai_ on Huahine is a large slab of unhewn stone,
+resting on three boulders. Around it are the rock-terraces which formed
+the rude temple.
+
+At Haamonga the cyclopean trilithon stands alone. All others known to
+us, such as those at Stonehenge, at Tripoli, Algeria, and in Central
+America, are found in connection with circles of huge stones, to which
+they have apparently been the gateway; but here there does not appear to
+have been any circle, not even a detached dolmen.
+
+In its weird solitude it most resembles the cromlech of Byjnath in
+Bengal; but what may be its story none can possibly guess. One thing
+only is certain, that these grey stones were brought here by some
+long-forgotten race, who little dreamt, when they raised this ponderous
+monument, that a day would come when _it_ should survive as the sole
+proof that _they_ ever existed.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  TRILITHON ON TONGATABU
+
+  FRIENDLY ISLES.
+]
+
+We have been told that within the memory of persons now living, an
+enormous _kava_ bowl stood on the horizontal stone, and that most solemn
+and sacred drinking festivals were held here. It is very probable that
+this may have been the case, as the people would, in heathen days, very
+naturally retain some tradition of reverence for the trilithon, as the
+peasants of Brittany, and, I may say, of Britain, do for similar
+erections to the present day, assembling for annual festivals at “the
+stones,” though the origin of Carnac, Stonehenge, and Stennis, is as
+unknown as that of Haamonga.
+
+Returning to the village we saw that the church was crowded, and that
+there were a number of candidates for confirmation. Judging that the
+service would occupy some time, and being anxious to see as much of the
+neighbourhood as possible, we drove along the coast to a particularly
+fine banyan, noted in Captain Cook’s chart, and beneath its shadow we
+rested awhile, and enjoyed a very pleasant half-hour overlooking a calm,
+beautiful sea.
+
+We reached Mua just as the congregation was dispersing, and were
+troubled with some qualms on the score of our bad example, but the
+considerate bishop gave us full absolution. I regret to say that a
+considerable proportion of the people were like hideously-dressed-up
+apes, masculine and feminine—many of the former in seedy black clothes,
+and some of the latter attired in gay flimsy silk gowns, inflated with
+large crinolines, and with baby hats, trimmed with pink and blue
+flowers, stuck on the top of their fuzzy heads. Hitherto, as you know,
+my ideas of Tongans have been derived only from the stately men and
+women who have settled in Fiji, and there, like their neighbours, have
+retained the graceful drapery of native cloth. Here the influence of
+certain persons interested in trade is so strong, that the manufacture
+of _tappa_ is discouraged by every possible means; and a heavy penalty
+attaches to making it on any, except one, day in the week. It seems that
+this law was passed in King George’s absence, and I am happy to learn
+that he was exceedingly angry—though, as yet, the law stands unrepealed,
+and the manufacture is doomed to cease altogether this year.
+
+Whoever is to blame, the system of taxation and fines is something
+astounding. A woman who is found without a pinafore, even in her own
+house, is fined two dollars, no matter how ample is her petticoat.
+Should she venture beyond her threshold minus this garment, she is
+liable to a fine of three dollars. If caught smoking, she is fined two
+and a half dollars, and one and a half dollar costs. Imagine such
+legislation for a people whose highest proof of reverence in olden days
+was to strip themselves to the waist in presence of their king, or on
+approaching a sacred spot, and who still consider any upper garment as
+altogether superfluous—a people, moreover, whose very nature it is to be
+for ever rolling up minute cigarettes for themselves and their friends!
+
+The most atrocious of all the regulations is one inflicting a fine of
+ten dollars on any man found without a shirt, though wearing such a
+_sulu_ (kilt) as would in Fiji be considered full dress, either at
+church or Government House. One of the lads told us he had actually been
+made to pay this fine a few days ago, having put off his shirt while
+fishing. Wet or dry they must wear the unaccustomed foreign clothing,
+instead of the former coating of oil, which made these people as
+impervious to water as so many ducks. But whether by compulsion or for
+vainglory, the hideous foreign clothes are worn during the burning heat
+of the day; then, under the friendly veil of night, comfort and economy
+are consulted by dispensing with superfluous garments; and so the heavy
+night-dews act with double power, and chills produce violent coughs,
+which too often end in consumption and death.[3]
+
+These people, like most kindred races when brought in contact with
+civilisation, are fast dying out. I believe there are now only about
+9000 in the Tongan group, 5000 on Happai, and 5000 in Vavau district.
+They certainly are a very fine well-built race, with clear
+yellowish-brown skin and Spanish colouring; they also resemble Spaniards
+or Italians in their animation of expression,—the muscles of the
+forehead working in a most remarkable manner, especially to express
+wonder or interest. They have fine faces, well-developed forehead,
+strong chin, and features generally like those of an average
+good-looking European. Not the slightest approach to the “blubber lips
+and monkey faces” of negro races, or of the isles lying nearer to the
+equator. On the contrary, the mouth is well formed, and shows beautiful
+teeth. The eyes are invariably dark brown, generally large and clear.
+The beard, moustaches, and eyebrows are allowed to retain their natural
+glossy black; but, as in Fiji, the hair is dyed of a light sienna by
+frequent washing in coral-lime, and encircles the head with a yellow
+halo, strangely in contrast with the dark eyes and eyebrows. Like that
+of the Papuan, rather than the pure Polynesian races, it takes the form
+of a mop of innumerable very fine spiral curls, of which each individual
+hair twists itself into a tight corkscrew. It is crisp and glossy, and
+very elastic; and if you draw it out full length, it at once springs
+back to its natural form. Some of the women now allow their hair to grow
+quite long. Both men and women march along with a proud overbearing gait
+that always gives one an impression that they look on all other races
+with something of contempt.
+
+Our morning’s work had given us such keen appetites that we did more
+than justice to the breakfast which awaited us at the Fathers’ house,
+though it must be confessed that the fare was of the coarsest; it was,
+however, the very best they had to offer, and was evidently considered
+quite a feast. My comrades congratulated one another that such viands
+did not often fall to their lot!
+
+Immediately after breakfast we started on our return journey with a high
+tide. Wind and current being in our favour, we flew down the river-like
+passage through the wide coral-reef, which we had ascended with such
+toil, and less than two hours brought us back to the good ship, and to
+cordial greeting from her genial captain. He had invited King George of
+Tonga and his grandson to dine on board, to meet the bishop and the
+Fathers, and I was invited to join the party. The king, who ought
+properly to be called Tupou or Toubo, which is the surname of all the
+royal family, was received with a salute of twenty-one guns—the ship
+dressed and yards manned, with sailors shouting “Vive la République!”
+(an institution to which, I fancy, that most men on board are profoundly
+indifferent—in fact several are declared royalists, and faithful
+adherents of Henri V.)
+
+The Tongans were duly conducted all over the ship, and examined
+machinery, guns, men’s quarters, and every detail, with apparent
+interest. A long dinner followed, from which I escaped as soon as I
+conveniently could.
+
+The king is a very fine old man, in height about 6 feet 2 inches. He was
+dressed in a general’s full uniform, and his grandson in that of an
+aide-de-camp—cocked-hat, &c. I confess I think that Thakombau and Maafu,
+in their drapery of Fijian _tappa_, are far more imposing figures. The
+king’s son, Unga, is at present seriously ill. His three sons govern the
+three groups into which this island-kingdom of Tonga divides
+itself—namely, Tongatabu, Happai, and Vavau. There are only about sixty
+isles in all, and their area is about 600 square miles; so this is a
+small matter compared with the 7000 square miles of Fiji. I am told that
+here the land all belongs to the king, so that any one wishing to settle
+can only do so as a tenant, leasing land from his Majesty.
+
+The feast being over, _le Roi kanaque_ departed amid blue and green
+lights, one of which was reserved for us—_i.e._, the ecclesiastical
+party—returning to the priest’s house and to the convent, where the
+pleasant Sisters awaited me with kindest welcome; and we all sat on the
+mats in my cell and chatted for a while.
+
+Now I am so very cold that I must go to bed. I think this climate must
+be far more trying than that of Fiji. The heat in the daytime feels to
+me greater, and every night is bitterly cold, necessitating piles of
+rugs and blankets; while the dew is so drenching that the roofs always
+drip as if there had been heavy rain. I do not wonder at the delicate
+little Sœur Marie having fallen into consumption. It carries off many
+strong natives.
+
+                                                        _Tuesday Night._
+
+Wasn’t it just cold when I left off writing! I lay awake shivering for
+two hours, though wrapped up in blanket, cloak, and big tartan plaid. I
+find that the island of Tongatabu is known all over the group as the
+cold isle, and I am ready to endorse the title.
+
+I devoted this forenoon to a sketch of this hospitable cottage-convent,
+and in the afternoon went alone to see Mrs Baker, who took me to visit
+the queen—a fine old lady, but very helpless, having dislocated her hip
+by a fall eight years ago. She was sitting on the bare boards in a
+wretched little room of a small house close to the large villa or palace
+in which King George receives his guests, but in which he never lives,
+preferring that his home should be _faka-Tonga_—_i.e._, adhering to
+native customs so far as is consistent with keeping up appearances. But
+here, again, we were struck by the uncomfortable substitution of a hard
+wooden floor for the soft mats of a truly native home. As civilised
+houses are glazed, the poor old queen, though much oppressed with heat,
+sat beside a glass window, shaded by a filthy tattered rag which had
+once been a curtain, but which in its palmiest days had been
+immeasurably inferior to a handsome drapery of native cloth: indeed the
+only symptom of comfort in the place was a curtain of Fijian _tappa_.
+
+The king and his chiefs were in council over church matters in a small
+room adjoining the queen’s, so we had to talk in whispers. Various
+female relations were grouped round the door, making the hot room still
+hotter. I am much struck by the fact that these proud Tongans make use
+of no titles. The Fijians always prefix the word _Andi_—_i.e._, Lady—to
+the name of a woman of rank; but here the name is used bluntly, whether
+in addressing a princess or her handmaid.
+
+Hearing of the grave assembly of the chiefs to discuss the affairs of
+the Wesleyan Church, brought back vividly to my mind all that I had
+heard in former days of this very King George, and of the prominent part
+taken by him in rousing these islanders to abandon their gross
+heathenism and cannibalism. So effectual has been his work, that now not
+one trace of these old evils remains, and these islanders are looked
+upon as old-established Christians.
+
+I had a pleasant walk back in the twilight, along the broad grass road
+which runs parallel with the sea, and am now spending my last evening in
+this peaceful convent. I am truly sorry that it is the last, for it will
+feel like leaving real friends to part from these kind Sisters, who make
+much of me, and do enjoy coming to sit with me in the evenings for a
+little quiet chat. They bring all my meals in here, as it is against
+their rules to allow me to feed with them in the refectory. In this
+respect they are far more rigorous than the Fathers, who, as you know,
+have invited me to supper and breakfast at their house.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+SAIL FROM TONGA TO VAVAU—VOLCANO OF TOFUA—WESLEYAN MISSION—TWO THOUSAND
+    MILES FROM A DOCTOR—ORANGE-GROVES—A LOVELY SEA LAKE—CORAL CAVES.
+
+
+                                           ON BOARD LE SEIGNELAY,
+                                       _Wednesday, 12th September 1877_.
+
+Here I am once more safely ensconced in my favourite niche, which is the
+carriage of a big gun. Filled with red cushions, it makes a capital
+sofa, and is a cosy, quiet corner, and a capital point of observation,
+whence, without being in the way, I can look down on the various
+manœuvres on deck—parades, gun practice, fire-parade, and so forth. We
+embarked this morning early, the four Sisters, by special sanction of
+the bishop, coming to see the last of me, and to breakfast with M.
+Aube;—an outrageous piece of dissipation, they said, but almost like
+once again setting foot in France. Four of the priests likewise escorted
+the bishop, and we had an exceedingly cheerful ecclesiastical
+breakfast-party, after which came a sorrowful parting, and then we
+sailed away from Tonga, taking with us the Père Padel, a fine old Bréton
+Father.
+
+We are now passing through the Happai group, and hope to-night to catch
+a glimpse of the volcano of Tofua, or, as it is also called by the
+natives, _Coe afi a Devolo_ (the Devil’s fire). It is a perfect volcanic
+cone 2500 feet in height, densely wooded to the edge of the crater.
+Strange to say, though the isle simply consists of this one active
+volcano, there is said to be a lake on the summit of the mountain. It is
+not stated to be a geyser; but the Tongans who visit it bring back small
+black pebbles, which they strew on the graves of their dead.
+
+The Happai group consists of about forty small isles, some purely
+volcanic, and others, as usual, combining coral on a volcanic
+foundation. About twenty of these are inhabited.
+
+                                      NEIAFU, VAVAU, _Thursday Evening_.
+
+The volcano proved to be quiescent. Not even a curl of luminous smoke
+betrayed its character. The sea, however, made amends by the brilliancy
+of its phosphoric lights. It was a dead calm, and from beneath the
+surface shone a soft mellow glow, caused, I am told, by vast shoals of
+living creatures, as though the mermaids were holding revel beneath the
+waves, and had summoned all their luminous subjects to join in the
+dance. I know few things in nature more fascinating than this lovely
+fairy-like illumination. Its tremulous glow and occasional brilliant
+shooting flashes are to me always suggestive of our own northern
+lights—a sort of marine aurora.
+
+Our course this morning was very pretty, steaming for many miles through
+narrow and intricate passages between the richly wooded headlands of
+Vavau, the great island, and many outlying islets. Finally, we anchored
+in what seemed like a quiet landlocked lake, at the village of Neiafu.
+
+The bishop went ashore at once, and was reverently welcomed by two
+priests, one of whom, Père Bréton, has been here for about thirty years,
+living a life so ascetic as to amaze even his brethren, so completely
+does mind appear to have triumphed over matter. We sinners all agree
+that having each been intrusted with the care of an excellent animal, we
+are only doing our duty by feeding and otherwise caring for it to the
+best of our ability. So the ascetic example is one which we reverence,
+but have no intention of following, cold water and yam, day after day,
+being truly uninviting. But the old man has not forgotten how to be
+genial and kind to others, and is a general favourite.
+
+The Roman Catholic flock here is small, as is also the church, which,
+however, is very neat. The Wesleyan Mission flourishes here, as it does
+throughout these Friendly Isles. In the three groups—namely, Tonga,
+Happai, and Vavau, it has 125 chapels, with an average attendance of
+19,000 persons, of whom 8000 are church members. Four white missionaries
+superintend the work of 13 native ministers, upwards of 100
+schoolmasters, and above 150 local preachers. At the Tubou Theological
+College—so named in honour of King George Tubou—there are about 100
+students preparing for work as teachers or pastors.
+
+I landed with M. Pinart, and a half-caste Samoan woman, who could talk
+some English, acted as our interpreter with the widow of the late
+“governor,” a large comely woman, who invited us to her cool Tongan
+house, where friendly, pleasant-looking girls peeled delicious oranges
+faster than we could eat them. This whole village and district is one
+orange-grove; every house is embowered in large orange-trees—the earth
+is strewn with their fruit, the air fragrant. What an enchanting change
+after Tonga, where there are no orange-trees, and where a sense of
+stiffness and over-regulation seemed to pervade life!
+
+The present “governor” is a fine tall young chief, rejoicing in the name
+of Wellington. He is acting for his father, Unga, King George’s
+illegitimate son, whom he has declared heir to the throne, but who is at
+present in very bad health. The young chief seems inclined to hold the
+reins firmly and well. But at present the Vavau chiefs are in some
+disgrace with King George, as they are suspected of plotting against
+Unga, in favour of Maafu.[4]
+
+Having eaten oranges to our hearts’ content, we continued our walk to
+the Wesleyan Mission, and on our way thither met the Rev. —— Fox on his
+way to the ship, to see if we had a doctor on board. The latter having
+already gone ashore, we returned together to the house—a quiet pleasant
+home, but for the present saddened by the serious illness of the young
+wife, who, a few weeks ago, gave birth to her first child. As Vavau can
+furnish neither nurse nor doctor, the wife of the missionary in Happai
+had, at great personal inconvenience, come thence in an open canoe to
+officiate on the occasion. She had, however, been compelled to return
+soon afterwards to her own nurslings, leaving the young mother and her
+baby in charge of native women. A very slow recovery, accompanied with
+some unfavourable symptoms, had produced such depression and alarm, that
+just before our arrival, the poor husband had actually been making
+arrangements for his wife’s return to Sydney for proper medical care.
+But, to get there, involved, in the first instance, a journey of about
+200 miles in an open canoe to reach Tonga, whence she would have to
+proceed alone, in a wretched little sailing vessel, on a voyage of
+upwards of 2000 miles (as the crow flies)—a serious undertaking for a
+woman in robust health, but a terrible prospect for an invalid with a
+young baby.
+
+Happily the timely arrival of the Seignelay dispelled this nightmare. M.
+Thoulon, the good kind doctor (himself _père de famille_), at once
+vetoed the rash arrangement, and his well-applied wisdom, and kind
+encouraging words, have already restored heart to the dispirited young
+wife; while a congenial talk with M. Pinart on the subject of Polynesian
+dialects and races, has helped to cheer the husband, who, later, took us
+to see his schools, pleasantly situated on a wooded hill, commanding a
+lovely view of the landlocked harbour. Then strolling back through the
+orange-groves, we returned on board, where I am now writing. The captain
+and several of the officers have gone off duck-shooting, and expect good
+sport.
+
+                                                     _Saturday Evening._
+
+Yesterday morning, after a very early breakfast, I went ashore at 6.30
+with M. Pinart and Dr Thoulon. Mr Fox was waiting at the pier, and
+returned with us to the mission-house, where we found the patient
+already on the mend. I acted the part of interpreter for the doctor, who
+was happily able to supply, as well as prescribe, all needful remedies
+and tonics. So when we returned this afternoon to say good-bye, the
+young mother looked like a different creature—so bright and happy. Truly
+a blessed skill is that of the kindly leech!
+
+The previous evening Mr Fox had undertaken to borrow some horses, and
+escort us to the summit of “The Pudding,” a wooded hill, commanding a
+splendid map-like view of the strangely intersected land and water on
+every side of us. The isles lie so close, one to the other, that we
+could scarcely believe we were looking on the ocean, and not rather on a
+network of clear calm lakes and rivers. All the isles appear to be
+densely wooded, but at intervals along the shore we could distinguish
+villages nestling among the trees. One small island has recently been
+ceded to the Germans as a coaling station, and there seems some reason
+for anxiety lest this small foothold should be taken further advantage
+of.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  A CORAL CAVE. VAVAU.
+]
+
+Our ride in the early morning was exceedingly pleasant. I had insured my
+own comfort by bringing my side-saddle ashore. By some mistake we found
+that the stirrup had been left in Fiji; but happily, on such a ship as
+this, to want a thing is to have it, and I hear that a new stirrup and
+strap are to be ready for me ere we reach Samoa. On the summit of the
+hill we found breakfast all ready, a party of natives from the mission
+having made an early start with tea, yams, ham and eggs—all of which had
+been cooked gipsy-fashion. To this foundation we added the contents of a
+hamper, which the thoughtful captain had directed his _maître d’hôtel_
+to send with us. So we had a royal feast, and then I settled down to do
+a bird’s-eye sketch of the strange world outspread below, while gentle
+and rather pretty brown girls, with sienna hair, sat by, peeling oranges
+by the dozen, with which they fed us all incessantly.
+
+It is the part of true hospitality to peel oranges for a guest, as their
+thick green skins contain so much essential oil, that the mere act of
+removing them makes the hands very oily and uncomfortable. Woe betide
+the rash and thirsty stranger who puts the green fruit to his lips to
+suck it, as he might a golden orange in Europe. For many hours the
+burning pain of almost blistered lips will remind him of his folly.
+
+Returning to the village, we found a large ten-oared boat waiting for
+us, the captain having most kindly placed it at our disposal, to enable
+us to explore the coast. Mr Fox guided us to a truly exquisite cave,
+about five miles distant. Never before, in all my wanderings, had my
+eyes been gladdened by such an ideal fairy grot. We rowed along the face
+of beautiful crags, which we had passed on the previous day without a
+suspicion of the wonderful hiding-place within them. Suddenly we steered
+right into a narrow opening, and found ourselves in a great vaulted
+cavern like a grand cathedral—a coral cave, with huge white stalactites
+hanging in clusters from the roof, and forming a perfect gallery along
+one side, from which we could almost fancy that white-veiled nuns were
+looking down on us.
+
+The great outer cave is paved with lapis-lazuli, at least with water of
+the purest ultra-marine, which was reflected in rippling shimmers of
+blue and green on the white marble roof. For the sun was lowering, and
+shone in glory through the western archway, lighting up the mysterious
+depths of a great inner cavern, which otherwise receives but one ray of
+light from a small opening far overhead, through which we saw blue sky
+and green leaves. No scene-painter could have devised so romantic a
+picture for any fairy pantomime. The French sailors were ecstatic in
+their delight. They collected piles of old cocoa-nut fibre and dry
+palm-leaves and kindled bright blazing fires, whose ruddy light glowed
+on the dark crevices, which even the setting sun could not reach, and
+blended with the blue and green reflected lights, and both played on the
+white coral walls, and the white boat, and white figures—(for of course,
+in the tropics, the sailors all wear their white suits). Soon these
+active lads contrived to reach the gallery, and glided behind the
+stalactite pillars, making the illusion of the nuns’ gallery still more
+perfect. Altogether it was a scene of dream-like loveliness.
+
+All this coast is cavernous, and most tempting to explore. Very near my
+fairy cave lies the one described by Byron, in “The Island,” which can
+only be reached by diving—
+
+                               “A spacious cave
+           Whose only portal is the keyless wave
+           (A hollow archway by the sun unseen
+           Save through the billow’s glassy veil of green).”
+
+A huge rock, about 60 feet high, rises from the sea, with nothing to
+indicate that it is hollow; but at a considerable depth beneath
+low-water mark, there is an opening in the rock through which expert
+divers can enter, and find themselves in a cave about 40 feet wide and
+40 in height—the roof forming rude Gothic arches of very rich and varied
+colour, and the whole incrusted with stalactites. The clear green water
+forms the crystal pavement, but two lesser caves, branching off on
+either side, afford a dry resting-place to such as here seek a temporary
+refuge. The place is quite unique in its surpassing loveliness; and the
+brilliant phosphoric lights which gleam with every movement of the
+water, and which are reflected in pale tremulous rays, that seem to
+trickle from the stalactites and lose themselves among the high arches,
+give to the whole a weird ghostly effect, quite realising all one’s
+fancies of a spirit-world.
+
+This home of the mermaids was first discovered by a young Tongan, who
+was diving in pursuit of a wounded turtle. Filled with wonder and
+delight, he lingered a few moments in admiration, then, recollecting how
+valuable such a hiding-place might prove in days of ceaseless
+intertribal war, he determined to keep his own counsel. So when he
+returned to the surface he held his peace, and all his companions were
+filled with wonder and admiration at the length of time he could remain
+under water.
+
+Not very long after this, his family incurred the anger of the great
+chief of Vavau, and one and all were disgraced, and in continual danger
+of their lives. But the chief had a beautiful daughter, who loved this
+bold young islesman, and though under any circumstances he was of too
+lowly birth to dare to claim her openly in marriage, he persuaded her to
+forsake her father’s house and come to that which he had prepared for
+her in the romantic grotto.
+
+Here she remained hidden for several months, only venturing to swim to
+the upper world in the starlight, and ever on the alert to dive to her
+hiding-place on the slightest alarm. Of course her simple bathing-dress
+of cocoa-nut oil and garlands did not suffer much from salt water; or if
+it did, trails of sea-weed quickly supplied fresh clothing. Her love
+brought constant supplies of fruit, to add to the fish which she herself
+provided: and so the happy weeks flew by, till at last the companions of
+the young man began to wonder why he left them so often, to go away all
+by himself, and especially they marvelled that he invariably returned
+with wet hair—(for the Tongans have the same aversion as the Fijians to
+wetting their hair, and rarely do so without good cause). So at length
+they tracked him, and saw that when his canoe reached the spot where he
+had stayed so long under water in pursuit of the turtle, he again
+plunged into the green depths, and there remained. They waited till he
+had returned to the land, suspecting no danger. Then they dived beside
+the great rock-mass, which seemed so solid, though it was but the crust
+of a huge bubble—and soon they too discovered the opening, through which
+they swam, and rising to the surface beheld the beautiful daughter of
+the chief, who had been mourned as one dead. So they carried her back to
+her indignant father—but what became of her hapless lover history does
+not record. Doubtless he was offered in sacrifice to the gods of Vavau.
+
+We peered down through the crystal waters to see whether we could
+discern the entrance to the lover’s cave, but failed to do so. Except at
+very low tide, it is difficult for average swimmers to dive so low. We
+only heard of two Englishmen who had succeeded. One was the early
+traveller, Mariner, who was present at a _kava_-drinking party of the
+chiefs in this cool grot; the other was the captain of an English
+man-of-war, who, in passing through the low rock archway, injured his
+back so seriously, that the people of Vavau believed him to have died in
+consequence.[5] It appears that the passage into the cave bristles with
+sharp projecting points, and it is exceedingly difficult to avoid
+striking against them. A native having dived to the entrance then turns
+on his back, and uses his hands as buffers to keep himself off the rocky
+roof.
+
+Our row back to Neiafu was most lovely—sea, isles, and sky, vegetation
+and cliffs, all glorified in the light of the setting sun. As we were
+returning to shore, to land Mr Fox, Captain Aube hailed us, and bade us
+invite him to dinner with him. I thought this very courteous, as of
+course, on such an essentially Roman Catholic mission as this, there is
+just a little natural feeling that it may not be discreet to show too
+much honour to the Protestant minister, who, however, met with a most
+cordial reception, and we had a very pleasant evening.
+
+This morning I was invited to accompany a party who started at daybreak
+to shoot wild duck on a pretty lake at some distance; but as I had the
+option of returning to the grotto, I chose the latter. So the captain
+again lent me the ten-oared boat, and we made another pleasant party to
+the beautiful cave: but it lost much of its beauty by being seen in the
+cold shadow of early morning, instead of being illumined by the level
+rays of the evening sun. We repeated the palm-leaf bonfires, but felt
+that we were not exhibiting our discovery to the best advantage.
+However, I got a sketch, which has the one merit of being totally unlike
+anything else I ever attempted.
+
+We returned too late for breakfast in the captain’s cabin, so had a
+cheery little party in the ward-room, then went ashore to say good-bye
+to our friends, and carry away last impressions of the fragrant
+orange-groves of Vavau. Then the bishop and the Fathers returned on
+board, and we sailed away from the Friendly Isles.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+LIFE ON BOARD SHIP—THE WALLIS ISLES—FOTUNA—SUNDAY ISLE—CYCLOPEAN REMAINS
+         ON EASTER ISLE—STONE ADZES—SAMOA—PANGO-PANGO HARBOUR.
+
+
+                             FROM MY SOFA IN THE GUN-CARRIAGE,
+                                 ON BOARD THE SEIGNELAY, _Sunday, 16th_.
+
+MY DEAR NELL,—I have asked Lady Gordon to send you a long letter to her,
+which I hope to post at Apia, so that I need not repeat what I have
+already written. We are having a most delightful cruise, with everything
+in our favour, and the kindness of every one on board is not to be told.
+
+To begin with, Monseigneur Elloi, Evêque de Tipara, is a host in
+himself, so genial and pleasant, and so devoted to his brown flock. He
+is terribly unhappy about all the fighting in Samoa; and I think the
+incessant wear and tear of mind and body he has undergone, in going from
+isle to isle, perpetually striving for peace, has greatly tended to
+break down his own health, for he is now very far from well, and every
+day that we touch land, and he has to officiate at a long church
+service, he is utterly exhausted. It is high time he returned to France,
+as he hopes to do, at the end of this cruise.
+
+His title puzzled us much when he arrived in Fiji, as we supposed him to
+be Bishop of Samoa. But it seems that a Roman Catholic bishop cannot
+bear the title of a country supposed to be semi-heathen, so they adopt
+that of one of the ancient African churches, which are now virtually
+extinct.
+
+To-day, being Sunday, the bishop called together as many of the sailors
+as wished to attend, and held “a conference”—which meant that he sat on
+deck, and they sat or stood all round, quite at their ease, no officers
+being present, while he gave them a very nice winning little talk,
+ending with a few words of prayer. There was no regular service. There
+is always a tiny form of morning and evening prayer, said on parade by
+one of the youngest sailors, which is very nice theoretically, but is
+practically _nil_. At the word of command, Prière, a young lad, rapidly
+repeats the _Ave Maria_ and _Nôtre Père qui êtes aux cieux_; he gabbles
+it over at railroad speed in less than a minute; then, as an amen, comes
+the next thing, _Punitions_, followed by a list of the various little
+trespasses of the day, and the penalties awarded.
+
+At each point where the vessel has touched, she has taken or left some
+of the French priests, many of whom have been working in these isles for
+so many years, that they know every detail concerning them, and are
+consequently very pleasant companions. One of my especial friends is a
+dear old Père Padel, a cheery Bréton, who has been working in the Wallis
+group for many years, with the happy result of seeing its savages
+converted to most devout Catholics. He is now going to Samoa.
+
+Much of the charm of this voyage is due to the kindly, pleasant
+relations existing between the captain and all his officers, from the
+least to the greatest—all are so perfectly at ease, while so thoroughly
+respectful. They are all counting the hours for their return to _la
+belle France_, where several have left wife and family; and their two
+years’ absence apparently seems longer to them than the four years of
+our English ships would seem to be to less demonstrative Britons.
+
+Nothing astonishes me more than the freedom of religious discussion on
+every side. Of course to the bishop and the numerous _pères_,
+personally, every one is most friendly and respectful, as well they may
+be; but as a matter of individual faith, _c’est toute autre chose_.
+
+The evening tea-parties in the captain’s cabin are particularly
+pleasant. Very often the conversation turns on some literary question,
+and then, from the ample library, are produced books from which M. le
+Commandant reads illustrations of prose or poetry. He is himself
+literary, and writes very well, in the ‘Revue des deux Mondes’ and other
+papers. Monseigneur Elloi says that Captain Aube is a very distinguished
+man in the French navy, and one who is certain of rapid promotion.
+
+He has another guest on board, M. Pinart, a scientific traveller. He
+belongs to a French Protestant family, but is such a thorough
+cosmopolite, that when we go about together in the native villages, and
+the people ask our nationalities, I always answer for him “American.” He
+is most industrious in his various lines of work, and is at present busy
+copying out vocabularies of all manner of dialects. He is greatly
+interested in all ethnological questions, and has a collection of
+skulls, enough to supply a resurrection army. I do not think the sailors
+like it very much, and they are always afraid that some trouble will
+arise with the natives of various isles on the vexed subject of _les
+cranes_, which our _savant_ scents out from old hiding-places in caves
+and clefts of the mountains, with all the instinct of a schoolboy
+hunting for bird’s nests. He has just shown me some beautiful
+illustrations in colours, for the book he is bringing out on American
+Indians; also many good photographs, done by himself, of objects of
+interest in many lands.
+
+I am so sorry that the Seignelay paid her visits to Fotuna (in the
+Southern New Hebrides), and to the Wallis Isles, on the way to Fiji. If
+only these had been reserved for the return journey, I should have had
+the rare luck of seeing them also. My kind friends are for ever
+regretting this, and give me tantalising descriptions of both isles and
+people.
+
+Apparently _les isles Wallis_, or Uvea, must be the true earthly
+paradise—so green, so fertile, with people so industrious, so contented,
+and so hospitable. It is a group of four or five high volcanic isles,
+all richly wooded, and protected from the ocean, not only by the great
+barrier-reef, but by an intricate labyrinth of lesser belts and patches,
+which make navigation a matter of extreme danger, even after the
+difficult entrance, by a very narrow passage, has been accomplished. The
+approach to the anchorage is by a network of such dangerous channels, as
+involve masterly steering for even small craft, and make it a matter of
+wonder that large vessels should attempt it. Indeed a French steamer,
+L’Hermite, was wrecked there not long ago, owing to one moment’s
+hesitation on the part of her commander, who, meeting a strong tide
+running out, shifted the helm at a critical moment, and so the vessel
+was swept on to the reef—a helpless plaything for the overwhelming surf.
+
+The Wallis Isles lie due north of Tonga, and are the headquarters of the
+Roman Catholic Bishop of Oceania, and a strong clerical staff; also of a
+French sisterhood, who devote themselves to teaching children whose
+lives have been spared by their own once cannibal parents, and who now
+worship with them, in a handsome stone church, built by themselves,
+under the direction of the Fathers, and are in every respect pattern
+Catholics.
+
+Three days’ sail from Wallis lies Fotuna, which is a little world by
+itself. It consists of a single peak, rising abruptly from the waters,
+and broken up into towering masses of crag and pinnacles, seamed by deep
+ravines, opening up into fertile valleys, richly cultivated. Sparkling
+streams afford an abundant water-supply for the irrigation of the _taro_
+beds; bread-fruit, bananas, and palms grow luxuriantly: so it is an isle
+of great natural beauty, and though only fifteen miles in circumference,
+affords ample provision for its 900 inhabitants. They seem to be a
+happy, healthy community, and have all adopted Christianity, either in
+its Protestant or Roman form. The representative of the latter is a fine
+old priest, who has devoted the greater part of his life to work on
+Fotuna, and year by year adds a few inches to the walls of a very large
+cathedral, which he hopes some future generation will complete. The
+natives show their love for the good _padre_ by bringing him the heavy
+blocks of coral-rock, which he hews at his leisure; but they are well
+content to worship in less solid buildings. The majority wear, as their
+badge, a little brass medal of the Virgin, or some other Christian
+amulet, which, in the case of the little children, is often their only
+raiment!
+
+Apparently the adherents of the two great Christian bodies contrive to
+live in peace, instead of finding in differing faith a new occasion for
+enmities, as has been the case even in Polynesian isles. But is it not
+grievous that, when at length “the people who sat in darkness have seen
+a great light,” it should not shine upon them in one undivided ray?
+
+The people of this lonely isle are especially interesting, because they,
+and the inhabitants of Aniwa—a much smaller isle in the same region—are
+of a totally different race from those on the other isles composing the
+New Hebrides—the latter being Papuans, and these Malays, whose ancestors
+drifted all the way from Tonga in a canoe. Though their colour has
+darkened, they retain the dialect and the hair of their race.
+
+Every one on board has treasures of some sort from Fotuna—especially
+very beautifully painted native cloth. I think some of the patterns are
+almost more artistic than those of the Fijians. Like theirs, these are
+principally geometrical; and in addition to the black and red dyes which
+are there used, the artists of Fotuna introduce a good deal of yellow.
+The printing is done in the same manner, the raised pattern being
+carefully designed with strips of cocoa-rib or bamboo on wooden blocks,
+on which the colour is stamped. It is the same principle as that of our
+printing-types, and was known in Polynesia long before the art of
+printing was invented in Europe.
+
+The most remarkable productions of Fotuna and some of its neighbouring
+isles are gigantic cocoa-nuts, more than double the ordinary size. They
+are immensely prized as drinking-cups. Many are 18 inches in
+circumference after the husk has been removed. The largest grow on the
+isle of Niufau, which is described as being merely the rim of a great
+crater, from which smoke sometimes rises, and which is incrusted with
+sulphur. Apparently the warmth of the soil agrees with all vegetation;
+for the isle is exceedingly fertile, and the cocoa-nuts are the wonder
+and envy of all beholders.
+
+I confess I should not care to live on one of these smouldering
+volcanoes. There are a good many such, scattered about the Pacific—and
+occasionally one subsides altogether. For instance, halfway between
+Tonga and New Zealand lies Sunday Isle. It is a volcanic rock-mass 1600
+feet in height, and about four miles in diameter. It is exceedingly
+fertile, but steam rises from all the crevices of the rocks, and the
+people have only to scrape a hole in the ground, and therein place their
+food that it may be baked in nature’s own oven. At one time there were a
+good many settlers in this warm corner, but in an evil day a Peruvian
+slave-ship touched here, and landed 200 poor creatures, captured in all
+parts of the Pacific. Typhoid fever had broken out among them; so they
+were thrown ashore to die, which they did, and most of the settlers
+shared their fate. The others left the island on the first opportunity,
+leaving only one white man with a Samoan wife and a dusky brood. These
+lived on in peace and plenty for about ten years, when suddenly the
+little fresh-water lake began to boil furiously, and from its midst a
+fountain of fire shot high in the air. Happily this mighty rocket served
+as a signal of distress, for a passing vessel descried the fiery column
+and came to investigate, greatly to the relief of the Crusoe family, who
+were taken on board, and for ever abandoned their home.
+
+Evidently this isle must lie on the same volcanic chain as the White
+Sulphur Isle, which is a sulphur volcano to the north of New Zealand,
+connected subterraneously with that great tract in the province of
+Auckland, where geysers, solfataras, and all manner of volcanic
+phenomena abound.[6]
+
+All these are reproduced on a smaller scale on the island of Tanna in
+the New Hebrides, within 30 miles of Fotuna. It is a circular island,
+about 40 miles in diameter. Near the harbour rises a volcanic mountain
+about 500 feet in height, densely wooded to the very summit, though
+seamed with fissures from which rise clouds of steam and sulphureous
+vapours. The whole island is exceedingly fertile—cocoa-palms,
+bread-fruit trees, bananas, sugar-cane, &c., grow luxuriantly, and the
+yams occasionally attain a weight of 50 lb.; one root being from 40 to
+50 inches long—a very neat thing in potatoes. Yet the soil which
+produces this rank vegetation forms so thin a crust over the vast
+furnace below, that in some places the penetrating heat is painful to
+the naked foot. Nevertheless, the people have no fear of accidents; on
+the contrary, wherever they find a group of hot springs they build their
+huts, and, like the New Zealanders, they love to lounge on the steaming
+grass or hot stones. In every village a circular space is set apart as
+the _marum_, or place for holding council or feasting, and in these
+districts a warm spot is selected, where, after sundown, the men may
+combine the pleasures of a vapour-bath with the enjoyment of their bowl
+of _kava_, while discussing the affairs of the tribe.
+
+The springs are in great favour as baths. They are of all
+temperatures—from the tepid water in which the natives play luxuriously
+for hours, to the boiling springs in which they place their food and
+leave it to cook itself. Some of these natural boilers lie so close to
+the shore, that the fishers who haunt the reefs, armed with long
+four-pronged spears, have only to throw their prize into the
+rock-caldron the moment they have secured it. No fear of tainted fish
+for them! Nor need they search far for drinking water. Probably the
+nearest spring is quite cold and excellent. Some of the springs are
+highly medicated, and many resort to the healing waters, some of which
+are especially efficacious for the cure of ulcerous sores.
+
+Beyond the strangely fertile crust, covering the region of horror, lies
+an unveiled tract of cinders and black volcanic ash, forming a wide
+barren valley from which rises the principal cone. This valley is
+intersected by a multitude of fissures from which issue scalding
+sulphureous fumes. Here and there beds of the purest sulphur have been
+deposited, and trading vessels occasionally carry hence a cargo of this
+pale primrose-coloured mineral, to be turned to good domestic uses.
+Pools of boiling mud alternate with springs of cold water clear as
+crystal; and in fissures lying but a few feet apart the same strange
+diversity exists. One sends forth a blast of scalding steam, while in
+the next a dripping spring yields its slow but continuous supply of
+ice-cold water, falling drop by drop.
+
+The cone, which is called Asoor by the Tannese, is about 300 feet in
+height. It is a gradual ascent, but fatiguing, owing to the accumulation
+of fine black ash or sand, in which the foot sinks at every step. Masses
+of scoria and vitreous lava, or obsidian, have been thrown up by the
+volcano, and lie scattered on every side.
+
+On reaching the summit, you find yourself on the brink of a crater half
+a mile in diameter, within which lie five secondary craters. These act
+as so many chimneys for the great furnace, which roars and bellows
+below, and which day and night, with deafening roar, unweariedly throws
+up its fiery blast at intervals of five, seven, or ten minutes,
+according as its action is more or less vehement. Some travellers have
+visited it repeatedly at intervals of several years, and their accounts
+of the intervals of eruption never vary beyond this slight difference.
+Huge masses of black rock or liquid fire are tossed in the air, to a
+height of 200 or 300 feet, often falling back within the crater, or else
+hurled to the valley below. Clouds of white steam mingle with denser
+clouds of the finest dark-grey dust, which is carried by the wind to all
+parts of the island, coating every green leaf with a powder like fine
+steel-filings, which fills the eyes and nostrils of all breathing
+creatures in a most unpleasant manner. When rain falls, it absorbs this
+dust, and becomes literally a mud-shower.
+
+From the position of the inner craters, it is obvious that even the most
+foolhardy scientific traveller could hardly venture to approach them to
+peer into the mysterious workings of that mighty caldron. Yet a native
+legend records, that in one of the fierce battles between the tribes of
+Tanna, one party was gradually driven backward, till they retreated to
+the summit of the cone, and even there they still fought on, contesting
+foot by foot of the sandy ridges of the inner crater, where a multitude
+of these savage warriors perished, having fought to the death, unheeding
+the wrath of the fire-gods.
+
+But of the isles visited by the Seignelay, before I had the privilege of
+joining the party, there is none which I regret so much as Easter
+Island, or, as the inhabitants call it, Rapa Nui, where they touched on
+the way from Valparaiso, from which it is distant about 2500 miles,
+without any intermediate isle. I think it must be the loneliest spot in
+the Pacific, as there are apparently only two little isles anywhere
+within a radius of 1000 miles. It is a volcanic island, about 11 miles
+long by 4 wide. It is covered with extinct craters, in some of which are
+deep pools of water. The highest point is about 1000 feet above the
+sea-level. The hills are covered with hybiscus and other scrub. It is
+inhabited by a race of very fair natives, like the Tahitians, and very
+elaborately tattooed.
+
+But the isle owes its interest to its mysterious relics of a forgotten
+race, who have utterly and completely died out, even from legendary
+lore; while their handiwork abides, written on the rocks, which are so
+covered with carving as to resemble the studio of some giant sculptor.
+Colossal stone images lie half buried beneath the creeping grass and
+encroaching scrub. At intervals all round the coast there are cyclopean
+platforms, from 200 to 300 feet in length, and about 30 feet high, all
+built of hewn stones 5 or 6 feet long, and accurately fitted, without
+cement. And above these, on the headlands, are artificially levelled
+platforms, paved with square blocks of black lava. On all these, stone
+pedestals remain, whereon were placed the great images, which, by some
+powerful force, have mostly been thrown to the ground and broken.
+
+The average height of the figures is about 18 feet; some of those lying
+prostrate are 27 feet long, and measure 8 feet across the breast. You
+can infer the size of some of the upright ones from the fact that, so
+near noon as 2 P.M., they cast sufficient shadow to cover a party of
+thirty persons. Some have been found which measure 37 feet. They are all
+hewn of a close-grained grey lava, which is only found at Otouli, a
+crater on the east side of the island. On a platform near this quarry
+several gigantic images stand in perfect preservation. One of these
+measures 20 feet from the shoulder to the crown of the head.
+
+They represent an unknown type. Very square face—short, thin upper lip,
+giving a somewhat scornful expression—broad nose and ears, with pendent
+lobes. All the faces look upward. The eyes are deeply sunken, and are
+supposed to have originally had eyeballs of obsidian.
+
+All the principal images have the top of the head cut flat and crowned
+with a cylindrical mass of red lava, hewn perfectly round. Some of these
+crowns are 66 inches in diameter and 52 in height. The only place on the
+island where this red lava is found, is the crater of Terano Hau, which
+is fully eight miles from Otouli; and how these ponderous crowns were
+conveyed to their position on the heads of the grey rock-kings, is one
+of the mysteries of the isle. About thirty of them still lie in the
+quarry where they were hewn, ready for the heads which they were never
+destined to adorn. Some of these are 30 feet in circumference.
+
+Well may we marvel by what means those unknown sculptors transported
+their ponderous works of art from one distant point to another on this
+lonely volcanic isle. The statues are literally lying about in hundreds,
+and the very rocks on the sea-beach are carved into strange
+forms—tortoises or human faces.
+
+Besides these, all along the coast, there are cairns of small stones,
+and on the top of each pile are laid a few white pebbles. These have
+probably been burial-cairns.
+
+Unless the face of the island has undergone some wondrous change, those
+mysterious workmen cannot even have possessed wooden rollers to aid them
+in the toil of transport, for there are literally no trees—nothing but
+small scrub. When Captain Cook discovered the isle, he only saw three or
+four little canoes, which were built of many small pieces of wood, sewed
+together with fibre, the largest piece being 6 feet long and 14 inches
+wide at one end, 8 inches at the other; and this, he thought, was
+probably driftwood. These canoes were from 18 to 20 feet long, and could
+barely hold four people. He found that the most acceptable gift he could
+bestow on the people was cocoa-nut shells, to be used as cups, since the
+island produced no palms, and but few gourds. Their only drink is
+brackish water, obtained by digging wells on the stony beach, through
+which the salt water filters.
+
+Wooden tablets, covered with hieroglyphics, have been found, which might
+perhaps reveal something of the old history of the race, but as yet no
+one has been able to decipher them. There are also stone slabs, covered
+with geometric figures, curious birds, animals, and faces, painted in
+black, white, and red—doubtless these also are hieroglyphs. They are
+ranged inside the quaint stone houses, of which about a hundred remain,
+at one end of the isle; and are built in lines, with the doors towards
+the sea. The inside measurement of these houses is about 40 feet by 13,
+and the walls are upwards of 5 feet thick; they are built of flat stones
+laid in layers. At about 6 feet from the ground, the slabs are so laid
+as to overlap one another, till they gradually close; and the small
+opening at the top is roofed with long thin slabs.
+
+Till a Rawlinson arises to read the hieroglyphs of Rapa Nui, its
+mysteries must remain unsolved; and the cold proud faces, with the
+sightless eyeballs, will continue to gaze heavenward, and the great
+stone images, whether gods or heroes, must lie in fallen grandeur in
+this their sea-girt shrine, with none to tell us what unknown race
+devoted the labour of their lives to sculpturing the rocks on this
+lonely isle.
+
+Unfortunately the Seignelay has no artist among her officers, so no one
+has any sketches which can give me any general idea of the isle, and
+though I have seen a few photographs of individual figures, I cannot
+from them obtain any impression of the whole effect. I confess I wish I
+had had the chance of doing a few panoramic and bird’s-eye views of the
+whole scene. Though perhaps not artistic, I am quite convinced that by
+no other means can a traveller so fully enable friends at home to
+realise the scenes on which his own eyes have feasted.
+
+The only other corner of the earth, in which I can hear of anything akin
+to these mysterious rock-sculptures, is the far-distant volcanic isle of
+Java. If you sail almost halfway round the world, heading straight for
+the west, you come to that wonderful isle, with its terrible volcanoes
+and amazing wealth of vegetation. Nowhere else are there so many
+distinct volcanoes in so small a space. No less than thirty-eight
+separate cones cluster round the great central range of mountains, from
+5000 to 13,000 feet in height. Some are active fire-craters, and throw
+out molten lava; others are water-craters, containing milk-white lakes
+or sulphureous geysers: in short, volcanic action is there in every form
+of sublime terror, and the Javanese aborigines erected temples to
+appease the fire-giants, and from the solid rocks sculptured prodigious
+statues in their honour. In one spot 400 ruined shrines have been
+discovered, with altars, and images—all apparently built to propitiate
+the fire-gods.
+
+It is very risky to draw inferences from mere descriptions of any sort
+of art, but so far as I can make out, these would appear to be the
+productions of the true aborigines, ere Hindu influence prevailed,
+leaving its mark in those marvellous Buddhist ruins at Borrobudua and
+Samarang, which we so unfortunately did not see, on our way from
+Singapore to Fiji.
+
+It is, of course, possible that the platforms and sculptures of Easter
+Isle may simply have been an extraordinary development of the
+_marai_—_i.e._, the tomb-temple, which was the accepted form of
+ecclesiastical building throughout the south-east Pacific. They varied
+considerably in form, some being great pyramids erected on a stone
+platform; while on other isles (as, for instance, on Huahine, in the
+Society Isles) there are stone terraces, built irregularly, right up the
+face of the hill, with spaces left between them. On one of the principal
+platforms a row of tall monoliths stand upright, just as did the images
+on the Easter Island terraces. On Huahine these are called “the stones
+of dividing,” and are said to have been set up as memorials of the
+division of land among the various tribes, each stone representing the
+title-deeds of a clan. To this day each tribe recognises its own stone,
+and, beholding it, recollects its unwritten legend,—just as at the
+present day in Fiji a messenger who is charged with a dozen different
+errands, will carry in his hand a dozen small sticks or leaves, and in
+fancy makes each stick represent a message. From this imaginary notebook
+he will read off each detail with unerring accuracy.
+
+Whatever faint resemblance may suggest itself between the irregular
+terraces and monoliths of Huahine, and the equally irregular terraces
+and statues of Easter Isle, it is hardly conceivable that such vast
+energy could have been expended on a mere memorial of tribal divisions,
+especially where there was so little land to divide. Perhaps Easter Isle
+was a sort of Iona—the Holy Isle of the old Druids, who there erected
+the 360 great monoliths, which the followers of St Columba sanctified by
+carving them into the form of crosses, but which in later years were
+cast into the sea by order of a ruthless Protestant Synod, who declared
+them to be “monuments of idolatrie.”
+
+The only traces of any forgotten race which I have had the good luck to
+see on the present cruise, have been the cyclopean tombs of the old
+kings of Tonga, and a huge trilithon, concerning which the present
+islanders know as little as we do of Stonehenge.
+
+While in Tonga I endeavoured to procure some stone adzes, but could only
+buy three very coarse ones without handles. They have long been in
+disuse there. M. Pinart, however, succeeded in getting some better
+specimens, which were carefully stowed away by some of the old people in
+the recesses of their homes.
+
+What miraculous patience it must have required, first to make these
+stone implements, and then to work with them! They were generally made
+from basaltic stones, which were dug out of the earth with strong
+sticks, and then roughly chipped into shape with a heavy flint. Perhaps
+after many hours of severe labour the stone would break in two, and the
+workman had to select another and begin again. This time he might
+progress swimmingly, and spend perhaps whole days in carefully chipping,
+till the rough stone began to take shape. Then he would substitute a
+lighter flint, and work with still greater care, only chipping off the
+first fragments,—and after all his labour, perhaps one sharp tap would
+prove fatal, and the carefully chiselled axe would split in two,
+revealing an unsuspected flaw in the centre. So the work must all be
+begun again, and the patient, persevering savage go on with his chipping
+till he succeeded in producing a perfect axe.
+
+Then came the slow process of smoothing it by such delicate strokes as
+only removed a fine white dust, and last of all came laborious polishing
+with rough coral and water and fine sand, till the axe at length became
+a serviceable tool, ready to be bound with strongly plaited fibre to the
+bent wooden handle.
+
+After this it had to be periodically ground by rubbing it on a very hard
+rock. We saw several rocks in Fiji scored with deep grooves from having
+constantly been used for this purpose; and of course they must exist in
+all countries in which stone celts have been in use, which, I suppose,
+means all corners of the round world, Britain included. I greatly doubt,
+however, whether the ancient Britons ever produced such artistic carved
+bowls and spears with their stone implements as these Pacific Islanders
+have done.
+
+The men who worked with these tools needed wellnigh as much patience as
+those who manufactured them. Imagine a squad of men taking from fifteen
+to thirty days to fell a tree! Saith the old proverb, “Little strokes
+fell great oaks,” and these were little strokes indeed! Of course a more
+rapid process was to make a slow fire all round the base of the tree,
+and so burn it down; but the fire so often ran up the heart of the tree,
+destroying it altogether, that the slower process proved best in the
+long-run. However, as a good-sized tree could thus be felled in three or
+four days, the rafters of houses were often thus prepared, and the
+branches burnt off. Once down, fire could be better used to divide the
+tree into useful lengths; and if a canoe were required, a long narrow
+line of fire was allowed to burn the whole length, its progress being
+regulated by the slow dripping of water. Thus the work left for the
+stone axe was considerably lessened, though it would still have puzzled
+a British carpenter to work with such tools.
+
+                                                        _Tuesday, 18th._
+
+We are enjoying the most perfect weather—a calm sea and a faint sweet
+breeze. The vessel glides on her way so smoothly that we scarcely
+perceive any motion, and all yesterday I was able to work up my sketch
+of the grotto, sitting in a delightful improvised studio on the tiny
+bridge (_la passerelle_). We are not making much way, as we are sailing
+to economise fuel; but the days pass pleasantly, and there is always
+some ship-life going on, which to me has all the interest of
+novelty—either parade, or fire-stations, or fighting-stations, or cannon
+practice (mercifully done in dumb show!)
+
+We are passing through a great shoal of jelly-fish—I suppose I ought to
+say medusæ—filmy, transparent creatures of very varied form. Some are
+like mushrooms, some like great bells, with delicately marked patterns
+of pale green or pink, and long fringe of feelers. They are beautiful by
+day, and at night gleam like balls of white fire. They are here in
+myriads, and are of all sizes, from a teacup to a cart-wheel. There are
+also a great number of flying-fish skimming on the surface of the glassy
+sea.
+
+I am told that we are now 630 miles from Levuka in a direct line; but
+our _détour_ in the Friendly Isles has made our voyage thence amount to
+about 1100 miles.
+
+We have just sighted Mount Matafae, the highest point in the isle
+Tutuila. It is a conical mountain 2300 feet high, and lies just above
+Pango-Pango, the most perfect landlocked harbour in all the Samoan
+group, with water six or eight fathoms deep close in shore, and
+surrounded by luxuriantly wooded hills. At present we are steering
+straight for Leone, where the bishop has work awaiting him. The place
+had an evil name in old days, as that where M. de Langle, who
+accompanied La Pérouse on his expedition in 1787, was barbarously
+murdered, with eleven men of his boat’s crew,—hence the name of
+“Massacre Bay,” and the character of treacherous and bloodthirsty
+savages which for so many years clung to the people, till Messrs
+Williams and Barff arrived here in 1830 with their trained Tahitian
+teachers, and made friends with them. Then they learnt the native
+version of the fray, and heard the invariable story of innocence
+suffering for guilt,—namely, that a poor fellow who had gone off to the
+ship to trade had been detected in some trifling act of pilfering, when
+he was immediately shot and carried ashore mortally wounded. Of course
+his friends determined to avenge his death, and so assembled on the
+beach, armed with stones and clubs, ready to attack the invaders the
+moment they attempted to land. They were only carrying out the example
+given to them, and combined revenge for evil done, with prevention of
+further assault.
+
+                                   PANGO-PANGO HARBOUR, _Tuesday Night_.
+
+After all, we did come here, for the anchorage at Leone is simply an
+open roadstead, and is not safe in a strong southerly gale. Captain Aube
+feared the wind might shift, so the vessel merely lay to, to allow a
+young priest, Père Vidal, to leap on board from his canoe, and then we
+ran right to this lovely spot, where we anchored at sunset.
+
+It is indeed a perfect harbour. We are lying close to the shore, in
+water twenty-one fathoms deep, clear as crystal, and calm as any inland
+lake. Steep, richly wooded hills rise round us on every side to a height
+of about 1000 feet, and you can discern no entrance from the sea. It
+seems like living in a vast cup. The hills all round are covered with
+bread-fruit trees, oranges, limes, pine-apples, bananas, and all the
+usual wealth of tropical greenery.
+
+This has been a calm, peaceful evening of soft moonlight. We sat on the
+_passerelle_ while one of the officers, who is an excellent violinist,
+played one lovely _romance_ after another, sometimes soaring to
+classical music. The others lay round him listening in rapt delight.
+
+The air is fragrant with the breath of many blossoms, and indeed all the
+afternoon we have had delicious whiffs of true “spicy breezes,” such as
+I remember vividly off Cape Comorin, but which I have not very often
+experienced at any distance from the land.
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER V.
+  BOAT TRANSIT TO LEONE—SPOUTING CAVES—COUNCIL OF WAR—SKETCH OF SAMOAN
+                         HISTORY—NIGHT DANCES.
+
+
+                                   IN THE HOUSE OF THE NATIVE CATECHIST,
+                                       LEONE, _Wednesday, 19th_.
+
+We have had a long delightful day, and I am tolerably tired; but before
+taking to my mat, I must give you some notion of what we have seen. All
+the early morning the ship was surrounded by canoes full of natives,
+offering clubs, native cloth, and baskets for sale. Some of the canoes
+had ornamental prows with carved birds, &c.
+
+After breakfast I went ashore with M. Pinart to see all we could of the
+village. We were invited to enter several houses, which are much more
+open and less like homes than those in Tonga or Fiji. But the people are
+all in a ferment, for, as usual in poor Samoa, this is only a lull in
+the course of incessant tribal war, and the people of Pango-Pango belong
+to the Puletoa, who were severely beaten in a recent battle. They are,
+however, keen to return to the fray, and this morning all the warriors
+assembled in full conclave, holding a council of war. They arrived in
+large canoes (some of their canoes carry upwards of 200 people, but
+those we saw had not room for above 50). They are noble-looking men, the
+fairest race in Polynesia, and truly dignified in their bearing. Some
+wore crowns of green leaves, and many had blossoms of scarlet hybiscus
+coquettishly stuck in their hair, which is cut short, dyed with
+coral-lime, and frizzled and stiffened with a sort of _bandoline_ made
+of the sticky juice of the bread-fruit tree, mixed with scented oil; so
+that, instead of being straight and black, it stands round the head in a
+stiff halo of tawny yellow, like that of the Fijians and Tongans.
+
+Is it not strange that the same curious rage for converting black hair
+into gold should prevail on this side of the world, just as it has in
+London in various epochs of fashion’s folly, as when the attendants of
+“The Virgin Queen” dyed their raven locks with a lee of wood-ashes,
+especially those of “ivy-tree bark,” or a decoction of the flowers of
+broom, either of which was warranted to “cause the hair grow yellow”? Of
+the various alkaline washes in use at the present day, and the good
+champagne converted to a hair-wash, I need not speak. Besides, these are
+mysteries which I have not yet solved.
+
+Here there is no deception at all in the process. It is all carried on
+in open day, for the simple and cleanly purpose of exterminating wee
+beasties. The head, whether male or female, that has just been
+whitewashed, presents exactly the appearance of a barrister’s wig stuck
+on to a bronze statue. But such work is all done on undress days; and of
+course to-day every one was got up in full suits of mats and foliage,
+with a good coating of fresh cocoa-nut oil, the effect of which, on a
+brown skin, is admirable. The Psalmist knew what it was, when he spoke
+of “oil to make him a cheerful countenance.” The man who neglects it
+looks dull and lack-lustre; while he who, having anointed his flaxen
+locks, has then given his face and shoulders a good polish, seems
+altogether radiant.
+
+Of course we found our way to the House of Debate. The spokesmen were
+apparently eloquent orators, very fluent, making use of much
+gesticulation and very graceful action. Each carries a fly-flap, which
+is his badge of office, and consists of a long bunch of fine brown
+fibre, very like a horse’s tail, sometimes plaited into a multitude of
+the finest braids, and all attached to a carved handle about a foot in
+length. With this, when not engaged in speechifying, he disperses the
+flies which presume to annoy his chief. But while talking, the fly-flap
+is thrown carelessly over the right shoulder. Dainty little flaps of the
+same sort are carried by many persons in preference to the fibre-fans in
+common use. I observe, however, that there are fewer fans here than in
+Fiji, where you are always offered one the moment you enter the poorest
+hut.
+
+I was struck by the rapt attention with which the audience favoured each
+successive speaker. The bishop was present, accompanied by the captain.
+They wished to remonstrate with the big chief on the subject of certain
+persecutions of Catholics, and also to urge him and his party to
+submission. They are but a handful compared with the others, and the
+strife seems so hopeless, and has already cost so many good lives; but I
+fear the good bishop’s efforts are all in vain. Like the Hebrew
+peacemaker, he “labours for peace; but when he speaks unto them thereof,
+they make them ready to battle.” And now, in every village and in every
+house, all the men are busy rubbing up their old guns, and preparing
+ammunition, making cartridges, and so forth.
+
+We returned on board at noon; and after luncheon, the bishop had to
+return in a ship’s boat to Leone. He most kindly invited me to accompany
+him. We were a full boat-load—Père Soret and Père Vidal, two chiefs, two
+other natives, one officer, and twelve French sailors. The sea was very
+rough, and we shipped so much water that two men were told off to bale
+incessantly. Of course our things got very wet. On these occasions the
+bishop is seen in perfection; he is so cheery and pleasant to every one,
+sailors and passengers, and makes the best of everything, though himself
+suffering greatly.
+
+This sort of boating is very different from travelling on our lovely
+Fijian lagoons, within the shelter of the encircling reef. Here the huge
+breakers dash madly on the shore, where they spout like geysers through
+a thousand perforated rocks, and we had to remain fully half a mile from
+land to avoid their rush. Oh for the calm mirror-like sea-lakes over
+which we have glided for the last two years, till I, for one, had
+wellnigh forgotten what boating in rough water means! To-day our ten
+stout rowers could with difficulty make any way, and our progress was
+slow.
+
+We saw enough of the island (Tutuila) to agree in the general praise of
+its green loveliness. Its high volcanic hills are densely wooded, and
+look more tropical than those of Ovalau (Fiji). But our powers of
+appreciation were considerably damped by the invading spray, and we
+watched the rugged coast, chiefly with a view to knowing whether there
+was one spot where a boat could land in case of need; but in the whole
+run of twelve miles, there was not a single place where it would have
+been possible. Even here, at this large native town, there is only a
+narrow break in the rocks, where landing is tolerably safe in fine
+weather.
+
+As we drew near we saw a large body of Samoan warriors exercising on the
+shore, and hear that the people have assembled from far and near to take
+measures for immediately crushing the rebels at Pango-Pango (our friends
+of this morning). The chiefs here belong to the _Faipule_ faction.
+
+The good Fathers invited me to tea at their house, and then handed me
+over to the care of Dorothea, the excellent wife of their catechist, who
+had prepared the tidy inner room of her house for my reception. Here I
+am most cosily established. My hostess, with about twenty of her
+scholars, nice-looking girls, have hung up great screens of _tappa_ to
+act as mosquito-nets; and under these they are sleeping peacefully in
+the outer room. Of course I brought my own net and pillow, being too old
+a traveller ever to risk a night without them; and my bed is a layer of
+fine mats, beautifully clean and temptingly cool. To these I must now
+betake me, so good-night.
+
+                               IN THE TEACHER’S HOUSE, _Thursday Night_.
+
+I started in the early morning for a long walk, taking as my guide a
+graceful half-caste girl with flowing black hair. She wore a fine mat
+round her waist, and a pretty patchwork pinafore, of the simple form
+generally adopted here—that is, a fathom of cloth, with a hole cut out
+of the centre to admit the head and neck. It is trimmed with some sort
+of fringe, either of fibre or grass. Occasionally two bright-coloured
+handkerchiefs, stitched together at the upper corners, supply the simple
+garment, which, however, is not an indigenous product of Samoa, but was
+the _tiputa_ introduced by the early Tahitian teachers. It is
+practically the same as a Spanish _poncho_. All the shore here is edged
+with black volcanic rock; the lava seems to have formed huge bubbles as
+it cooled, and many of these have been water-worn till they are
+connected one with another by innumerable channels. So the waves rush
+tumultuously into these subterranean caves, and thence through hidden
+passages, till they reach openings like deep wells which lie at
+intervals along the shore, at some distance from the sea. Through these
+chimneys the rushing waters spout in great foam-fountains, and the
+effect produced is that of intermittent geysers, all along the coast. I
+think some of the jets must have been fully 100 feet high—and how the
+great breakers do surge and roar! No peaceful silent shore here!
+
+We passed a very large deserted European house, built by Mr Scott of the
+Presbyterian Mission. How so large a house came to be required, or why
+it was abandoned, are mysteries of which I have heard no solution.
+
+I returned to breakfast with the Fathers, to whose house I go for all
+meals. Happily the kind forethought of Captain Aube has provided me with
+a private teapot and a good supply of tea and sugar, so that I can have
+a brew whenever I wish;—a great comfort, as the ecclesiastical hours are
+very irregular, the Fathers being in the habit of luxuriating on dry
+yam, drier biscuit, and cold water. The only attempt at cooking is that
+of a nice half-caste lad, who is the bishop’s sole attendant, and
+combines the duties of chorister, acolyte, episcopal valet, and cook; so
+his duties in the latter capacity have to wait on the former.
+
+It seems we have arrived here at a most critical moment. The majority of
+the chiefs of Tutuila have assembled here to hold council of war how
+most effectually to subdue the rebels. The majority are in favour of
+war. A few have not yet arrived. All to-day they have been sitting in
+parties all round the _malæ_—that is, the village green. At intervals
+one of the “talking men” stood up, and, laying his fly-flapper on his
+bare shoulder, leant on a tall staff, and, without moving from the spot
+where he had been sitting, threw out an oration in short, detached,
+abrupt sentences. Having had his say he sat down, and each group
+apparently made its own comments quietly. There were long pauses between
+the speeches, which made the proceedings rather slow; but we sat by
+turns with all the different parties (_we_, meaning myself, M. de
+Kerraoul, and M. Pinart, who had walked across the hills from
+Pango-Pango).
+
+After a while, the bishop was invited to speak—a great exertion, as the
+audience formed such a very wide circle. He took up his position beneath
+the shade of a bread-fruit tree in the centre, and though his voice was
+very weak, he was distinctly heard by all—and his speech seemed
+impressive. Of course he urged peace, and he has a good hope that at
+least the Roman Catholic chiefs will allow themselves to be guided by
+him. But the meeting closed with a bad tendency to war, which was
+illustrated by various actions in the manner of bringing in the feast,
+the way in which women, wearing trains of _tappa_, were going about all
+day, carrying bowls of _kava_ to the orators, and other symptoms evident
+to practised eyes. Many of the men wore beautiful crowns of Pearly
+Nautilus shell, which are also symptomatic of warlike intentions.
+
+The bishop’s words, however, were not without effect. The council
+assembled again to-night, and is still sitting, and I hear that after
+much talk the chiefs have written a letter to the chief of Pango-Pango,
+again inviting him to submit, and so avert war.
+
+Just now I mentioned the bowls of _kava_ with which ministering damsels
+refreshed the thirsty speakers. Perhaps I should explain that it is the
+identical drink which I so fully described, in writing to you from Fiji,
+where it was known as _yangona_—namely, a dry root masticated, till
+there remains only a fine white fibre, as free as possible from saliva.
+This is placed in a large wooden bowl, and water is poured over it. It
+is then strained through a fine piece of hybiscus fibre till all the
+particles of root have been removed, when there remains only a turbid
+yellow fluid, tasting like ginger and soap-suds, which is gently
+stimulating, like weak sal-volatile, and has the advantage of rarely
+resulting in intoxication, which, in any case, is a very different
+affair from that produced by drinking spirits. A man must drink a good
+deal of this nasty _kava_ before he can get drunk; and when he does, his
+head remains quite clear,—he merely loses the use of his limbs, and has
+to appeal to the compassionate bystanders to lift him to a place of
+safety. If his companions were white men, they might obligingly empty
+his pockets while he looked on helplessly; but South Sea Islanders would
+scorn to take so base an advantage of a man in his cups. On the
+contrary, they will obligingly bring him some mountain bananas, nicely
+roasted in their skins, which are considered a corrective, and will then
+leave him to sleep himself sober.
+
+Different groups have trifling differences in their method of preparing
+this national beverage, and the ceremonies to be observed. In Fiji it is
+considered very incorrect for a woman to touch the bowl,—chewing,
+straining, and handing it round in cocoa-nut shells, should all be done
+by young men, whose comrades sing wild melodies during the manufacture,
+and keep up a peculiar measured hand-clapping while the chiefs are
+drinking. Here, in Samoa, the girls are all Hebes. They do the brewing,
+and carry round the cups, but there are no songs (_yangona-méké_), and
+the only hand-clapping is done by the drinker himself as he hands back
+the cup. In Fiji, the correct thing is to send the empty cup skimming
+across the mat to the great central bowl.
+
+This afternoon a corps of sixty warriors favoured us with a very odd
+sort of drill dance. Their dress consisted of kilts of black calico,
+trimmed with cut-out white calico, to look like _tappa_; on their heads
+a turban of Turkey red; their mouth and chin hideously blackened, which
+on these very fair people produces a monstrously ugly effect. They all
+had muskets, and were called soldiers; but we thought their drill was
+more funny than warlike, and concluded that they would be quite as
+dangerous to their friends as their foes. They have a sort of American
+flag, invented by Colonel Steinberger.
+
+The dance was a very miserable travesty of a true native _méké_, such as
+we have so often seen in the isles further west; but here the
+vulgarising influence of white men is painfully evident, and one of the
+prominent figures at the chief’s council was a high chiefess in a huge
+crinoline, a gorgeous red dress, and a hideously unbecoming hat, trimmed
+with scarlet and green ribbon and feathers:
+
+                 “Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us,
+                 To see oursels as ithers see us!”
+
+Could that proud woman but have known with what different eyes we, the
+great strangers representing all Europe, looked on her fine foreign
+clothes, and on the pretty becoming attire of her handmaidens, with
+their finely plaited and fringed mats, necklaces of scarlet berries on
+their clear olive skin, and bright blossoms in their hair!
+
+Philosophers tell us there is always good in things evil; and so far as
+outward appearance goes, the tendency to war is in favour of artistic
+beauty, as these people (like the Samoans and Tongans) connect the idea
+of good behaviour with pretty closely cropped heads; but when the
+war-spirit revives they become defiant, and let their hair grow like a
+lion’s mane, and adorn themselves with gay wreaths and garlands from the
+neck and waist. When a man has allowed his hair to grow long, he twists
+it up in a knot on the top of his head, but it would be considered gross
+disrespect to appear thus in presence of a superior or at a religious
+service. He must then untie the string and let his hair fall on his
+shoulders. Rather odd, is it not, that they should have exactly the same
+idea on this subject as a Chinaman, who dares not venture to appear in
+presence of a superior with his pigtail twisted round his head?
+
+To-day the great chief’s half-caste secretary asked me most anxiously
+when “Arthur Gordon” was coming from Fiji, and whether it was really
+certain that he would endeavour to force the Samoans to reinstate King
+Malietoa. I ventured to answer for Sir Arthur having no such intention,
+which seemed to soothe the inquirer and all his anxious surroundings.
+You may remember that we have twice had Samoan chiefs in Fiji. Once when
+they were brought as hostages on board the Barracouta, and once as a
+deputation to the British Government, to claim a protectorate from
+England. In each case, though the protectorate was refused, they were
+most kindly received by Sir Arthur Gordon, and amongst other attentions,
+were invited to dine at Government House. So several of those here
+assembled now recognised me as an old acquaintance, and are very
+friendly in consequence.
+
+It really is too sad to see those fine manly fellows, who, if they could
+but work in concert, might be such a powerful little community, now all
+torn by internal conflicts and jealousies, continually fanned by the
+unprincipled whites, who hope to reap their harvest in the troubles of
+their neighbours. I fear it would be difficult in a few words to explain
+the position of affairs, but I must give you a rough outline.
+
+The old original _Tui Samoa_—_i.e._, kings—were of the dynasty of Tupua.
+Some generations back the Tongans came and invaded Samoa, whose people
+resisted bravely, and finally expelled the foe. The Wellington of that
+day was a brave chief, who was thenceforth known as _Malietoa_, the
+“Good “Warrior,” a title which from that day has been borne by the chief
+ruler of the isles, even if not in the direct lineal descent. The chiefs
+of Savaii, and of part of Upolu, with the lesser isles of Manono and
+Apolima, elected Malietoa their king. The isles of Auna and Atua
+remained loyal to the Tupua family. They were, however, conquered by a
+successor of Malietoa, who reigned as king of the whole group till 1840,
+since which period a ceaseless strife has been waged between the
+contending factions. These became aggravated in 1869 by a split in the
+Malietoa camp, when, on the death of the reigning chief, his two sons
+contested the succession. The chiefs of Savaii supported the claims of
+the elder brother, while those of the isle Monono elected the second,
+justly believing that the chiefs of Apia were becoming mere tools in the
+hands of the foreigners.
+
+This double civil war, fomented as usual by the whites, raged till 1872,
+when the United States assumed a sort of protectorate over the group,
+and in the following year a republic was declared, the supreme power
+being vested in the hands of a representative body of seven high chiefs.
+These were called the _Taimua_—_i.e._, the “Pioneers.”
+
+I must tell you that the great nobles of Samoa are called _Alii_, and
+the greatest care is taken to preserve their line in direct lineal
+descent from the ancient chiefs. It is not necessary that the title
+should descend from father to son, only that it should be bestowed on a
+member of the family, who can trace back his clear pedigree to the true
+source. Therefore, on the death of a high chief, the minor chiefs of the
+tribe elect the member of the principal family, whom they will
+henceforth acknowledge as their political head, reserving to themselves
+the power of deposing him should he prove unsatisfactory.
+
+These minor chiefs also hold their title as head of the family by
+election—a son being often passed over in favour of a cousin, and
+sometimes even of one who is no blood relation, but is adopted for some
+political reason. These head men are the _Faipule_, who act as local
+magistrates in each village, the affairs of which they discuss in solemn
+conclave. They have the name of being great orators, and much eloquence
+flows in these legislative assemblies. The great chiefs never speak in
+public, that office being deputed to their official spokesman. In a
+general way the Samoan isles have divided themselves into ten districts,
+each of which has its distinct _fono_ or parliament, and no action is
+taken in any matter till the members of one council have arrived at
+something very near a unanimous decision. Of course, in times of war
+like the present, these matters are very irregular.
+
+In January 1875, a new experiment was tried. Unheeding the wisdom which
+forbids having “two queens in Brentford,” the Samoans resolved to have a
+king of each dynasty, who should reign jointly: so Pulepule of the
+ancient Tupua race ascended the throne in company with Malietoa Laupepa;
+and the number of the _Taimua_ was raised from seven to fourteen. How
+long this amicable arrangement might have continued, it is impossible to
+say; for on the 1st April 1875, a very serious phase of April fooling
+was enacted by an American adventurer, known as Colonel Steinberger,
+who, by some means not clearly explained, obtained a passage to Apia in
+the United States man-of-war Tuscarora, and on landing stated that he
+had been sent from Washington to organise a new government. As his sole
+credentials, he presented the Samoans with four pieces of cannon and a
+Gatling gun, which, he said, were a gift from President Grant.
+
+Utterly ignoring all the foreign consuls, including the representative
+of the States, he proceeded, under protection of the American
+man-of-war, to draw up a new constitution, declaring Malietoa sole king,
+and himself (Steinberger) prime minister, and, in fact, supreme ruler.
+This matter being settled, the Tuscarora sailed, and Steinberger
+proceeded to arm the schooner Peerless (which he had purchased in San
+Francisco) with guns and ammunition, and sailed to Tutuila to put down
+the disturbances in that island. The American consul (Mr Foster) vainly
+remonstrated against the proceeding of this unlicensed vessel flying the
+American flag; and taking advantage of the arrival of H.M.S. Barracouta,
+commanded by Captain Stevens, he seized the Peerless for breach of the
+neutrality laws.
+
+Then followed a meeting of all the foreign residents, resolving to free
+themselves from the tyranny of this self-constituted dictator. Many of
+the Samoan chiefs joined with the foreigners in claiming British
+protection—the German consul, Godeffroy’s representative, being the only
+one to stand aloof. The Barracouta arrived on the 12th December; and on
+the 7th February, Malietoa appealed to the United States consul to aid
+him in getting rid of his arrogant premier. Mr Foster forwarded this
+petition to the British consul and Captain Stevens, who, after an
+interview with the king and the Samoan representatives—the _Taimua_ and
+the _Faipule_—agreed to arrest Steinberger, who, accordingly, was
+carried on board the Barracouta for safe keeping.
+
+His right hand, Jonas Coe, was however left at large, and by his advice
+the Steinberger faction proceeded that night to seize the king and carry
+him off to the isle of Savaii, where they forced him to sign a deed of
+abdication, vesting all power of government in the _Taimua_ and
+_Faipule_. Within a week Malietoa contrived to send a message to Captain
+Stevens, acquainting him with these circumstances, and requesting his
+further aid. The Barracouta accordingly went to the rescue, and brought
+the king back to Apia, where he was landed with a salute of twenty-one
+guns, and a guard of marines was told off to protect him. The town was
+now full of armed mobs, who surrounded the British consulate in a
+threatening manner, so that Mr Williams, the consul, was obliged to
+swear in special constables for its protection.
+
+So matters went on till the 13th March, when the king, wishing to
+explain to his people his reasons for dismissing Steinberger, summoned
+all the chiefs to meet him at the neighbouring village of Mulinunu,
+which lies on a green peninsula beyond Apia. Malietoa was escorted by
+his principal chiefs, the consuls, and foreign residents, and Captain
+Stevens, with a guard of sailors and marines; the latter with unloaded
+arms, which were piled on reaching the village. Then, in their rear,
+appeared a strong party of armed natives, cutting off their retreat, and
+evidently meditating an attack. An officer, with a small party of
+marines, advanced to parley with these men, but were received with a
+volley of musketry, which killed and wounded several. Then followed a
+sharp skirmish, in which the sailors fought at a great disadvantage—the
+enemy being 500 strong, and concealed by the dense thickets of bananas
+and sugar-cane. Eleven sailors and marines were killed and wounded, and
+the assailants lost about double that number. Grave fears were
+entertained that the British and American consulates would be attacked;
+so they were put in a state of defence, which proved a sufficient
+precaution. Next day Mr Jonas Coe was tried by his consul and
+countrymen, and sentenced to be deported. So he enjoyed the privilege of
+joining his chief on board H.M.S. Barracouta, which soon afterwards
+sailed for New Zealand, calling at Fiji on the way (on which occasion I
+made friends with the three Samoan chiefs whom Captain Stevens had
+brought away as hostages for the good behaviour of their party).
+
+Much oil having been poured on these troubled waters by the soothing
+intervention of both French and English missionaries, and especially by
+the personal influence of the bishop, a superficial peace was
+established, and Malietoa Laupepa once more reigned as king. How soon
+disturbances have broken out, we now see too plainly.[7]
+
+After our evening meal at the Fathers’ house, I took a turn in the
+moonlight with M. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul, hoping to see a Samoan
+dance, which was to come off soon after sunset. But the council having
+again met, the dance was deferred till so late that I thought it better
+to come back here, where I found all the pretty little school-girls
+adorned with garlands, singing and acting very pretty quaint songs and
+dances, illustrating their geography, arithmetic, &c. Then about twenty
+grown-up women, who had come in from the village, sprang to their feet,
+and volunteered to show me some of the real old Samoan night dances—_Po
+ulu faka Samoa_. These were exceedingly ungraceful, and half their point
+seemed to consist in making hideous grimaces and contortions, and in
+reducing wearing apparel to a minimum, consisting chiefly of green
+leaves. I think that on the slightest encouragement they would have
+dispensed with any. Each figure was more ungainly than its predecessor,
+and seemed likely to be prolonged indefinitely; so, as it struck me that
+the entertainment would scarcely meet with the approbation of the good
+Fathers, should it occur to them for any reason to come over, I
+suggested that the children should give us a parting song, whereupon
+they sang “Malbrooke” and “Bon Soir” very prettily, though I daresay the
+French words they repeated did not convey much more to their minds than
+do the Latin prayers.
+
+Then the party dispersed, and now the school-girls are all safely stowed
+away beneath their close _tappa_ mosquito-curtains, like a regiment
+under tents, and I am in possession of the inner reeded room. It is a
+great boon to have such a haven of refuge from the multitude of gazing
+brown eyes.
+
+By the shouts from the _rara_ I know that the council has broken up, and
+the real Samoan dance has now begun; but from the specimen given to me
+by the ladies, I think it is just as well that I came away.—Now,
+good-night.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+       A SHORE WITHOUT A REEF—SAMOAN PLANTS—HOUSES—ANIMALS—LAYING
+  FOUNDATION-STONE OF A CHURCH—SCHOOL FESTIVAL—THE NAVIGATOR’S ISLES.
+
+
+                                                   LEONE, ISLE TUTUILA,
+                                                       _Sept. 21, 1877_.
+
+At early dawn my pretty half-caste damsel took me to bathe in the river,
+but the shore was muddy and not very attractive. We returned in time for
+service in the little church, which is about to be replaced by a much
+larger building, the foundations of which are already raised, and the
+great event of this afternoon has been laying its first stone.
+
+Immediately after breakfast at the Fathers’ house, I started with M.
+Pinart and M. de Kerraoul for a long, most lovely walk along the coast,
+by a path winding among dark rocks and rich ferns, with great trees
+overhanging the sea, which breaks in real surf below them, washing their
+roots, which seem alive with myriads of crabs of all sizes, which also
+wander at large among the branches, like so many birds. Many of the
+lower boughs are actually fringed with shells and sea-weed, while the
+growth of parasitic ferns on the upper branches is wonderful to behold.
+The muddy shore of the river seemed literally moving, from the multitude
+of burrowing crabs, with one large pink claw; and every now and again a
+great land-crab would peer at us from some fruit-laden branch, with its
+curious eyes projecting on movable stalks, which turn about at will.
+
+This is the first place in the Pacific where I have seen grand green
+waves break on the shore. Throughout the Fijian isles they spend their
+force on the barrier-reef, and only the gentlest ripple washes the
+coral-sand.
+
+The rainfall here is greatly in excess of that in Fiji, consequently
+vegetation is richer, and the intensity of green more remarkable. So far
+as I can judge, the general foliage here is identical with that of the
+most fertile of “our” isles. The cocoa-nuts are much larger.
+
+I am afraid to confess how hateful to me is the very thought of
+returning to long weary winters in Britain, with six dreary months of
+leafless undress. Do you realise that in all these isles there are only
+two or three deciduous trees, and that the majority put forth their
+wealth of young leaves almost faster than the old drop off? They are
+“busy trees” indeed, laden at once with bud and blossom, ripe and unripe
+fruit, and in many cases bearing several crops in a year. No wonder that
+these light-hearted people care so little to weary themselves with
+digging and delving, when the beautiful groves yield them fruit in
+abundance, and the mountains supply uncultivated crops of nourishing
+bananas and wild yams. For that matter, I suspect it is really quite as
+fatiguing to climb the steep mountains in search of wild vegetables as
+it would be to grow them in gardens—probably a good deal more so—for the
+beautiful mountain-plantain, which is the staple article of food, grows
+in all the most inaccessible valleys and clefts of the rock. As you look
+up the steep hillside, so richly clothed with vegetation, the most
+prominent forms are these large handsome leaves, with their huge cluster
+of fruit growing upright from the centre, but to reach them you may have
+to climb a couple of thousand feet—and _such_ climbing! A man would need
+to be in very robust health who could face such a walk to fetch his
+family food. For my own part, I should prefer to sacrifice the romance,
+and plod steadily at my yam-garden.
+
+These mountain-plantains are the only branch of the family which carry
+their fruit upright in that proud fashion; all other sorts hang drooping
+below the leaves, like gigantic bunches of yellow grapes; and the native
+legend tells how, long ago, all the banana tribe held their fruit
+upright, but that in an evil hour they quarrelled with the
+mountain-plantain, and were defeated,—hence they have ever since hung
+their head in shame.
+
+In heathen days the Samoans seem to have been greatly averse to
+unnecessary work, and even the art of making cloth of the paper-mulberry
+fibre was one which their indolence long prevented them from acquiring,
+though they greatly admired that which their Tahitian teachers made for
+them. Now, however, they appear fairly industrious, and the women
+particularly so—those of the highest rank priding themselves on being
+the most skilful weavers of fans, mats, and baskets, and in making the
+strongest fibre-cloth. The chief men also are willing to do their full
+share of whatever work is going on, whether house-building, fishing,
+working on the plantation, or preparing the oven and heating the stones
+to cook the family dinner.
+
+Now all the chief men wear very handsome cloth, thicker and more glossy
+than that made in Fiji, though less artistic in design. Fifty years ago
+the regular dress of all the men was merely a girdle of leaves—a simple
+form of dress, but one which was never dispensed with, as in many of the
+Papuan group; indeed, one of the most humiliating punishments in heathen
+days was to compel a culprit to walk naked through the village, or so to
+sit for hours in some public place. To this day a leafy girdle is
+considered essential as a bathing-dress—the long dracæna leaves being
+those most in favour. They are so arranged as to overlap one another
+like the folds of a kilt; and as they vary in colour, from brilliant
+gold to richest crimson or brightest green, the effect produced is as
+gay as any tartan. This is the favourite _liku_, or kilt, in Fiji even
+now.
+
+But on great occasions in olden days, as at the present time, the
+chiefs, and their wives and daughters, wore very fine mats of the most
+delicate cream colour. They are made two or three yards square, and are
+as soft and flexible as cloth. The best are made from the leaves of the
+pandanus, scraped till there remains only a fibre thin as paper; but the
+bark of the dwarf hybiscus also yields an excellent fibre for weaving
+mats. Their manufacture is a high art. It is exclusively women’s work,
+but is one in which few excel, and is very tedious,—the labour of
+several months being expended on a mat which, when finished, may be
+worth about ten dollars.
+
+The strong paper-like cloth commonly worn, is much less troublesome to
+manufacture. There are several plants from which a good cloth-making
+fibre is obtained. One of them is the magnificent giant arum, the leaves
+of which often measure from 5 to 6 feet in length, by 4 in width. Its
+root is large in proportion—truly a potato for a giant. How you would
+delight in the cosy brown cottages whose thatched roofs just peep out
+from among such leaves as these. You do realise that you are in the
+tropics when you see gigantic caladium or quaint papawas, splendid
+bananas with leaves 6 or 8 feet long, and tufts of tall maize or
+sugar-cane 15 to 20 feet high, growing luxuriantly at every
+cottage-door.
+
+To-day we passed through several villages, and were everywhere greeted
+with the kindly salutation _Ole Alofa_ (_i.e._, “Great Love”). We were
+invited to enter many houses; and though our scanty vocabularies did not
+suffice for much conversation, a mutual inspection was doubtless
+gratifying to both parties. The language of the Samoans is soft, and
+their voices musical. To express thanks, they say _Faa-fetai_. The
+familiar _Vinaka! Vinaka!_ (_i.e._, “Well done!” in Fijian) is here
+rendered by _Le-lei! Le-lei!_ Good-night, is _Tofa_—_i.e._, “May you
+sleep.” The Samoan language is generally described as the Italian of the
+Pacific—it is so mellifluous. It is, however, a very difficult one for a
+foreigner to acquire thoroughly, as it has three distinct dialects—the
+language used in addressing a high chief, a middle-class gentleman, or a
+peasant, being altogether different; and a further complication arises
+from the politeness which leads the highest chief to speak of anything
+referring to himself in the dialect which describes the lowest of the
+people. In Samoa, however, as in the other Polynesian group, one
+language is spoken on all the different isles, and there has at all
+times been free intercourse between them—a very different state of
+things from that which prevails in such groups as the New Hebrides,
+where each isle has a dialect—perhaps two or three—unknown to any of its
+neighbours, and where one tribe dares not set foot on the land of
+another.
+
+Samoa has always been in many respects superior to most of her
+neighbours. Not only was she free from the reproach of cannibalism, but
+also, in great measure, from that of infanticide, which prevailed to so
+frightful an extent in neighbouring groups. Here children were never
+destroyed _after_ their birth, though it is supposed that fully
+two-thirds of those born in old days, died from mismanagement in
+nursing. The sick were invariably treated with kindness, and old age
+lovingly tended. Such horrors as the burial of the living, as practised
+in Fiji in heathen times, were never dreamt of in Samoa.
+
+In no land is old age more beautiful than here—partly because the
+tendency is to corpulence in place of leanness; and the eyes retain
+their clear, piercing brightness, and the countenance a kindly
+expression, which tells of the powerful good sense for which many of
+these people have been so remarkable. Certainly they are a handsome and
+attractive race.
+
+We noticed in all these villages the same characteristic in
+house-building which struck us at Pango-Pango—namely, that there is a
+good deal of roof supported on posts, but little of anything answering
+to a wall; so the houses resemble huge oval mushrooms, and home life is
+of a very public description. There are, however, movable screens of
+plaited cocoa-palm, which are put up so as to enclose the house at
+night, on the same principle as the paper walls or screens which compose
+the sides of a Japanese house, and which are generally removed in the
+daytime. The wooden screens invariably are so.
+
+At night the interior of a Samoan house resembles a small camp, as large
+curtains of heavy native cloth are slung from the roof and hang like
+tents, within which the sleepers lie on a pile of soft fine mats, their
+necks, not their heads, resting on a bamboo or wooden pillow raised on
+two legs. Furniture is conspicuous by its total absence. A few baskets
+for fish or vegetables hang about the walls, and a few bundles
+containing cloth and mats lie in the corners. Cookery is done out of
+doors in the native ovens, for Samoans have no pottery of any sort; so
+the picturesque cooking-pots of a Fijian kitchen are lacking. The very
+few cooking or water pots which are sometimes seen in a chief’s house
+have invariably been imported from Fiji, and are prized accordingly.
+
+The roof itself is one of the most precious possessions of the isles.
+Ponderous as it appears, it can be divided into four parts, and removed
+from one place to another, should the family have occasion to flit. The
+great rafters are bound together by strong creeping-plants (vines or
+lianas) from the forest, and the ordinary thatching consists of
+sugar-cane leaves, strung on reeds, which are laid so as to overlap one
+another: sometimes a heavy cocoa-palm matting above all, secures the
+roof against a very high wind.
+
+Some of the Samoan homes revealed very pleasant cool-looking groups of
+comely lads and lasses lounging on their mats, making and smoking the
+invariable tiny cigarettes, consisting of a scrap of tobacco rolled up
+in a morsel of the dried banana-leaf fringe they wear round the waist. A
+few were whiling away the hot hours of the day by a game with small
+cocoa-nut shells: each player has five shells, with which he tries to
+knock every one else’s shell from a given spot, leaving his own in their
+place. They also play a game something like forfeits. They sit in a
+circle, in the centre of which they spin a cocoa-nut on its thin end;
+and as it falls, the person towards whom the three black eyes point is
+considered to have lost. In the same way they cast lots to decide who
+shall do some work or go an errand. In one village a party of lads had
+assembled on the village green to play _totoga_, or reed-throwing—a game
+very common in Fiji. The reeds, which are 5 or 6 feet in length, have
+oval wooden heads about 4 inches long, and the skill lies in making
+these skim along the grass to the furthest possible distance.
+
+In a green shady glade we saw a party of young men, very lightly clad,
+practising spear-throwing, aiming at the soft stems of banana-trees,
+which I suppose represented the bodies of their foes. In the game they
+take sides, and one party tries to knock out the spears planted by the
+other. Sometimes they carry very short spears, and in throwing these,
+aim so as first to strike the ground, whence the shaft glides upwards
+towards the mark. I am told that a feat is sometimes performed which
+must involve marvellous coolness as well as dexterity. A man, armed only
+with a club, stands up as a target, and allows all the others to throw
+their spears at him. All these he catches with his club, and turns them
+aside in quick succession. It can scarcely be called a pleasant game,
+however.
+
+We saw several distressing cases of elephantiasis, which is here called
+_fè-fê_, and, we are told, is common. It produces hideous malformations;
+and the sufferers are pitiable objects, the arms and legs being
+hideously swollen. The natives attribute this disease to the action of
+the sun; but some Europeans who have suffered from it declare that it is
+also produced by exposure to the night air, and by excessive drinking of
+_kava_. Happily it is painless. Some of the Samoans suffer severely from
+ulcers; and we heard of some cases of ophthalmia.
+
+Here and there, beneath the green shade of the plantains, close to the
+houses, we noticed hillocks of white sea-sand, surmounted by a low
+oblong cairn of wave-worn pebbles, with a layer of white stones on the
+top. These are the graves of the household. No Highlander is more
+careful to have his own bones, or those of his kindred, laid beside the
+dust of his forefathers, than is the Samoan. To him the idea of a common
+cemetery is repulsive. His desire is to be laid in the tomb in the
+garden, on land belonging to his family. When a man of any consequence
+dies, the ends of a canoe are cut off, and it is used as a coffin. This,
+however, is an innovation. The true old custom was to wrap the body in
+mats only—fine soft mats—and to lay it in a shallow grave, with the head
+to the east and the feet towards the setting sun. The wooden pillow and
+cocoa-nut cup of the dead were buried with him. Then the grave was
+covered with white sand, and the cairn was raised, always about a foot
+higher at the head than at the feet.
+
+If the deceased was a chief of any note, bonfires were kindled at short
+intervals all round the grave, and the mourners sat near and fed the
+fires till dawn; and this they did for ten consecutive nights. But in
+the case of commoners, it sufficed to keep up a blazing fire all night
+in the house, taking care that the intervening space was so cleared as
+to allow the warm light to rest on the grave. The household fireplace
+was, as it is still, merely a circular hollow in the middle of the
+house, lined with clay, only a few inches deep, and rarely exceeding a
+yard in diameter. As the house has no walls, there is no difficulty
+about smoke, but considerable danger of setting fire to the surrounding
+mats. Nowadays, the fire in the house burns only for warmth, and for the
+convenience of lighting cigarettes; but in heathen days a blazing fire
+was kindled every evening in honour of the gods, to whom the
+house-father commended the family and all their interests.
+
+Near one of the villages we caught a glimpse of a dark olive-green
+snake, the first I have seen for many a day. They are not quite so rare
+here as in Fiji, but are equally innocent; and the girls take them up
+without hesitation, and play with them, and even twine them round their
+necks. We also saw some wood-pigeons and a few paroquets, and lovely
+little honey-birds, with crimson-and-black plumage.
+
+As we crossed the river a frightened water-hen darted from among the
+bushes—swallows skimmed lightly through the air, and several exquisite
+blue-and-yellow kingfishers glanced in the sunlight, as they flashed in
+pursuit of bright-coloured insects.
+
+Flying foxes are very numerous, and, as they hang suspended from the
+boughs, head downwards, have the effect of some curious fruit. They are
+excellent to eat, as we discovered in Ceylon; but most Europeans have a
+prejudice against them—I cannot see why, as they feed on the best and
+ripest fruits. I quite understand the objection to the little
+insectivorous bats, which cluster in thousands among the rocks, clinging
+one to another, till they appear like brown ropes. The smell of these is
+simply disgusting.
+
+These are not the only night-birds of Samoa. I am told there are a good
+many owls. I did not, however, see any, neither was I so fortunate as to
+see the Samoan turtle-dove, with its exquisite plumage of peacock-green
+blending with crimson. Green paroquets abound, and a small scarlet and
+black bird.
+
+When these isles were first discovered, an indigenous dog was found in
+the mountains—a small, dark-grey animal, with very little hair, short
+crooked legs, long back, and large erect ears. It fed on bread-fruit and
+yams, having no other animal on which to prey, with the exception of the
+little native rat. The natives very naturally considered both dog and
+rat as dainty dishes for high days. Happily they contented themselves
+with these, and held cannibalism in abhorrence. The wild dog was also
+found on Hawaii, Tahiti, and New Zealand.
+
+On some of the isles there was a native breed of pigs, lanky,
+long-legged creatures. Like the rats and dogs, they made a virtue of
+necessity, and were strict vegetarians. They were found in Hawaii,
+Tahiti, Tonga, and the New Hebrides. These are the only three quadrupeds
+that appear to have been indigenous on any of the Polynesian isles; and
+now all three are extinct, having died out on the introduction of their
+foreign kindred, in obedience to that sad fate which appears to rule the
+destinies both of men and beasts.
+
+The people whose ideal quadruped was a pig, very naturally judged of all
+imported animals by this standard: so a goat or a cow became known as a
+horned pig; a horse, a man-carrying pig; a cat, a mewing pig. When the
+first goat was landed on one of the Hervey Isles, where even pigs were
+unknown, the natives called one another to come and see “the wonderful
+bird with great teeth growing out of its head!”
+
+The most interesting aboriginal inhabitant of Samoa is a little kind of
+dodo, or tooth-billed pigeon, here called _Manu-mea_.[8] Though now
+rare, it is still to be found in the forests, generally hiding in the
+tops of the highest trees. The natives say that it used to frequent the
+ground, but that since the introduction of foreign cats and rats, which
+have proved its deadly foes, it has instinctively retreated to safer
+quarters. Its diminished numbers may probably, however, be attributed to
+the high value set on it by the Samoan epicures. It is said to be
+closely allied to the extinct dodo. Its body resembles that of a pigeon,
+but its head and beak are those of a parrot. Its general plumage is
+dark-red, the head and breast being grey. Eyes, legs, and feet are all
+red, and the beak is reddish gold. When captured, it is generally very
+savage, and bites severely, but it is occasionally tamed, and feeds on
+fruit.
+
+Formerly the sporting world of Samoa found its chief pastime, not in
+pigeon-shooting, but in pigeon-catching, which sounds a very innocent
+amusement, but which was indulged in to such excess that the teachers
+found it necessary to discourage it, as it led to the schools being
+quite deserted, and all work at a standstill, for months at a time—the
+favourite season being from June till August. The Hurlingham of Samoa
+was a large circular clearing in the forest—(there were many such).
+Thither the whole population of a district would resort, having
+previously prepared great stores of provision. Grandfathers and little
+children, but especially young men and maidens, delighted in the
+dove-festival, dear to happy lovers. They erected temporary huts in the
+forest, and there took up their abode for a prolonged picnic. Many an
+idyl of the forest might have been sung by the flower-wreathed minstrels
+of Samoa; and the wide world could offer no lovelier scene than the
+exquisite tropical forests of these happy isles, where no hurtful
+creature lies hidden. But I fear that even here the idyls were not free
+from occasional touches of shadow; though doubtless there were reflected
+lights, enough to relieve any transient shade, and lovers’ quarrels were
+forgotten in new loves.
+
+All round the central clearing, hiding-places were constructed and
+covered with green boughs. In each of these a sportsman was concealed,
+holding in one hand a stick to which a tame pigeon was attached by a
+string some ten yards in length. These pigeons were all trained to fly
+round and round; and the wild wood-doves seeing so many of their fellows
+circling round one spot, naturally supposed there was something good to
+be shared, and ventured near, when, from each ambush a long slim bamboo
+was thrust forth, with a net attached, and the stranger was forthwith
+captured. Of course, he who caught the largest number was the hero of
+the hour, and to him was presented the evening feast—at which baked
+pigeons figured largely. Some, however, were preserved alive, to be
+trained as decoy-birds, as this pigeon-taming was a favourite occupation
+at all seasons of the year,—indeed is so at the present time; for the
+Samoan takes as much pride in his doves and pigeons, as a Briton does in
+his hounds and horses. The birds are trained in such habits of idleness
+that they will not even feed themselves, but sit patiently waiting till
+their master actually puts their daily bread—yam, banana, or
+cocoa-nut—into their open mouths.
+
+The Samoan dove and its wooing furnished the theme for one of the
+prettiest of the native dances. The girls, while gently gliding to and
+fro, utter the low soft call of the female dove, their mates answering
+from afar, in deeper resounding tones, and circling around, ever drawing
+nearer and nearer, till the wooers and the wooed unite in a _ballet_ of
+much graceful fluttering.
+
+We got back to Leone just in time to see the ecclesiastical procession
+start from the old church to the site of the new one. At the
+consecration service, the bishop wore his mitre and a very gorgeous
+vestment of patchwork, presented by the Samoan ladies. I grieve to have
+to record that in leading the procession round the foundations of the
+new church, he made the turn _widdershins_.[9] I believe that this is
+contrary to ecclesiastical custom—and of course to my Scottish mind it
+suggested grievous misfortunes in store.
+
+An immense crowd of people had assembled, and the influence of European
+bad taste was too apparent in several cases; as for instance, in the
+uniform selected by a large college of young men, and provided by
+themselves—namely, white trousers, magenta blouse, and sky-blue
+waist-band! The girls wore white calico _sulus_[10] and pale-green
+pinafores, which, with their hair dyed yellow, were becoming. But they
+looked a thousand times better when, at a school festival held later,
+they exchanged the white skirts for very fine cream-coloured mats
+embroidered round the edge with scarlet wool, necklaces of large scarlet
+berries and green leaves, and scarlet hybiscus and green leaves in their
+hair. They went through some very pretty school exercises, illustrated
+by much graceful action.
+
+Then some very fine women came up, wearing handsome new mats of hybiscus
+fibre, which, when newly prepared, is pure white, and after a while
+becomes creamy in hue. They presented us all with very pretty fans of
+woven grass.
+
+Then came a presentation of much food, including about thirty pigs,
+which were, ere long, devoured by the assembled multitude.
+
+The bishop was terribly exhausted by all this prolonged exertion and
+much talking; but as an instance of his never-failing kindness to
+everybody, I may tell you, that when the school-feast was over, I came
+to this, my special nest, remarking to some one that I was _fatiguée_,
+forgetting that the word may be interpreted as “not well.” So when the
+kind bishop came home to his much needed rest, he heard this, and, tired
+as he was, at once came to this house, which is at some distance,
+bringing a great roll of native cloth to soften my mat couch, and
+chocolate and other little delicacies, which he thought I might fancy. I
+_was_ so sorry,—but it illustrates the beautiful unselfishness of that
+genial nature.
+
+To-morrow we are to leave this lovely isle Tutuila and cross to the
+great isle of Upolu, on which is situated Apia, the capital.
+
+This group, which in our schoolroom days we were taught to call the
+Navigators Isles, but which its inhabitants know as Samoa, consists of
+eight principal isles and several small islets. By far the largest are
+Savaii and Upolu—the former being 250 miles in circumference, the latter
+200. Both are very beautiful, having high mountain-ranges, visible at a
+distance of 70 miles, and richly wooded. They are separated by a strait
+about 12 miles wide, the mouth of which is, as it were, guarded by two
+small islands, Manono and Aborima.
+
+The former lies close to Upolu, and one reef encircles both. It is the
+home of some of the high chiefs, and is an exceedingly fertile little
+island, clothed with the richest verdure. It is about five miles in
+circumference.
+
+Aborima, as seen from the sea, appears to be only a huge precipitous
+mass of rock, rising to a height of 200 or 300 feet. It is about two
+miles in circumference, and is probably the crater of an extinct
+volcano, for it is shaped like the hollow of a hand, whence it derives
+its name. It is inaccessible, except at one small opening between the
+steep cliffs; but passing between these you enter an amphitheatre,
+which, from the base to the summit, presents an unbroken mass of
+tropical vegetation—a most marvellous transformation scene from the
+desolate crags of the seaboard. A charming little village nestles
+beneath the fruit-bearing trees in the basin.
+
+This natural stronghold belongs to the chiefs of Manono, who use it in
+time of war as a safe refuge for their families and storehouse for their
+property. All they need do, is to guard the narrow entrance, which they
+can either defend by dropping rocks on the invaders, or by so placing
+ropes across it that they can overturn their canoes. So, although the
+warlike men of Manono have occasionally been driven from their own isle,
+they have always found a secure retreat in this lovely rock-girt
+fortress, where they take good care always to have abundant stores of
+food ready for emergencies. That they need such a place of refuge, you
+may infer from the fact that when they were first visited by white men,
+about fifty years ago, a basket was suspended from the ridge-pole of a
+sort of war-temple, and in it were preserved 197 stones, which were the
+record of the number of battles which the men of Manono had fought up to
+that date!
+
+I do not know how many of these isles we are to visit. The more the
+better, since all are beautiful. But whenever I admire anything, the
+invariable reply is, “You like this? Ah, wait till you see Tahiti!”
+Evidently it is the ideal isle. No one will believe that I am _not_
+going on. Indeed I am beginning scarcely to believe it myself. Well,
+we’ll see when we reach Apia.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VII.
+    VANQUISHED CHIEFS OF THE PULETOA FACTION UNDER PROTECTION OF THE
+  UNION-JACK—CONVENT SCHOOL—“BULLY” HAYES—POSTAL DIFFICULTIES—HOUSE OF
+    GODEFFROY—VILLAGE OF MALINUNU—VEGETABLES AND FISH—ADVANTAGES OF
+                       ANGLO-AMERICAN COMPANIES.
+
+
+                                           BRITISH CONSULATE,
+                                       APIA, ISLE UPOLU, _Monday, 24th_.
+
+We arrived here yesterday morning, and I confess that, having heard so
+much of the beauty of this place, I am rather disappointed. It is not to
+be compared with Levuka[11] from a picturesque point of view. A very
+long village, scattered round a horse-shoe bay, with cocoa-palms _ad
+libitum_, and background of rather shapeless rich green wooded hills,
+part of which are under cultivation. Certainly the hills do gradually
+ascend to a height of fully 4000 feet, so they are not to be despised;
+but our eyes are satiated with the beauty of volcanic peaks and crags,
+rising from an ocean of foliage wellnigh as rich as this. Doubtless if
+we have time to explore the interior, we shall find no lack of
+loveliness; indeed even from the harbour we could distinguish one grand
+waterfall, like a line of flashing quicksilver on the dark-green
+mountain. But to reach it, would involve a long day of hard walking,
+such as I could not attempt, even were the sun less powerful than it is
+to-day. This town, which is the capital of Samoa, consists of about two
+hundred houses and stores—German, English, and American consulates, a
+Roman Catholic college and cathedral, a Congregational chapel, and two
+newspaper offices, representing the stormy politics of the isles—namely
+the ‘Samoan Times’ and the ‘South Sea Gazette.’
+
+The strong point of Apia is the excellence of its harbour—a point which
+the German traders have made good use of, in securing their own right to
+a large part of it.
+
+As soon as we anchored, M. Pinart escorted me, first to call on Dr and
+Mrs G. A. Turner of the London Medical Mission, and then to H.B.M.
+Consulate, which was my destination—the wife of the consul, Mrs Liardet,
+and her mother, Mrs Bell, having been our friends in Fiji, before they
+were sent to this place. We found that Mr L. had just sailed for Fiji to
+consult Sir Arthur Gordon on the best course to follow in the present
+critical state of affairs, when every man’s hand is seemingly against
+his neighbour, and each trying to induce the natives to espouse his
+individual quarrels as well as their own. So the whole community are at
+loggerheads. The whites are mostly riff-raff of a very low order; and in
+short, the Samoa of to-day is simply a reproduction of what Fiji was
+before annexation. Many of the scamps who are now working its strings
+are the identical men who, finding Fiji no longer a happy land of
+misrule, have just moved on to the next group, there to repeat the
+intrigues of their previous life.
+
+As I have explained to you, the Samoans are divided into two great
+factions, betwixt whom there is war to the death; and, unfortunately,
+this ill feeling is kept up by the utterly unprincipled whites—German,
+English, and American—who have their own interests to serve, and are
+quite unscrupulous as to the means they employ. So, thanks to their
+machinations, there was a sharp skirmish about three months ago actually
+in the town, close to this house, and to the convent, where the French
+Sisters have a large and excellent school for girls. There appears no
+doubt that it began by a treacherous onset unawares, instigated by a
+scoundrelly American. The fight lasted all night, just behind this
+house. Sixty men of the Puletoa faction were slain, and their heads were
+cut off and sent to friendly chiefs as delicate offerings.
+
+You can imagine the horror of that night to the ladies here, hearing the
+noise of battle, the firing of muskets, and the shouts of the warriors,
+but unable to distinguish through the darkness what was going on. In the
+first glimmer of dawn they looked out, and saw a great crowd of poor
+terrified refugees of the Puletoa party crouching round the flag-staff
+here (at the consulate), claiming British protection. The Union-jack
+that was run up that morning has never since been lowered day or night,
+as the conquerors have as yet given no definite promise to spare the
+lives of the vanquished. Others, who had hidden in the scrub, have since
+crept in, under cover of night; and from that day to the present, the
+fifty men (great chiefs and their followers), besides wives and
+children, are living within the very confined grounds of the consulate.
+
+The men never dare to venture outside these bounds, knowing that for
+long the place was surrounded by guards of the enemy, watching to shoot
+any of the refugees who might venture to step over the enclosure, which
+at the time of the fight was only partially fenced in. The women and
+children are, however, allowed to go out and forage. The principal
+chiefs sleep in the dining-room and passages, and wherever they can find
+room to lie down; and when I come to my room at night, I have to pick my
+way in and out among the sleepers. But the majority of the followers
+have built a large native house in the garden, where they sleep; and as
+they dare not go out even to bathe, they have dug a deep well for their
+own use; and Mrs Liardet has given them her tin-lined piano-case, which
+they have converted into a very good comfortable bath. They have sunk it
+near the well, and fenced it round, so it answers capitally, and has the
+merit of being quite a novel use for a piano-case!
+
+All their arrangements are very tidy; and they are a fine, dignified
+lot—especially the chiefs; and all are so very nice and respectful, that
+their presence in and about the house is not half such an inconvenience
+as you might imagine. Indeed Mrs Liardet and Mrs Bell have grown quite
+fond of them; and they in their turn delight to play with Mrs L.’s baby,
+who is a bright little laughing pet. Indeed they act as a splendid
+guard, and are always quiet and well-behaved. But some of the poor
+fellows have terrible coughs, which keep themselves and us awake half
+the night; and being awake, they do talk a good deal, which diminishes
+the chance of our falling asleep again.
+
+They are a handsome race, pleasant to the eye, and happily do not, like
+so many of the Tongan chiefs, affect foreign dress. They either wear
+fine mats, or else very thick handsome native cloth of bread-fruit or
+paper-mulberry fibre. Very few wear any covering on the shoulders, so
+the fine bronzed figures are seen to full advantage; and as I look down
+from this verandah I see on every side of me such groups as an artist
+would love to paint. Picturesque men, women, and children, bright
+sunlight and gay blossoms, rich foliage, and palm-leaves flashing like
+quicksilver as they wave in the breeze, framing the blue waters of the
+harbour, where the foreign ships lie anchored.
+
+But all these poor people do look so sad, and no wonder; for even if
+their lives are saved, all their property is lost, and many of these
+were the wealthy nobles of the land. Some people here say that they
+might now safely return to their usual life; but others, equally old
+inhabitants, and equally well informed, say they are in as great danger
+as ever. It seems just touch-and-go whether a few days will see the
+renewal of a very bloody war, or whether all will agree to an
+unconditional cession to England. There is a strong impression that if
+Sir Arthur Gordon were to arrive here now, the latter would be certain;
+and that it is the only possible panacea for poor Samoa’s wounds.
+
+Within a stone’s-throw of this house lie the grounds of the French
+convent, where four nice ladylike French Sisters, and two Samoan
+Sisters, devote themselves to the care of about sixty native
+girls—bright, pleasant-looking lassies. The native Sisters appear to be
+thoughtful and devout women. There is an atmosphere of peace and calm
+within the convent grounds strangely in contrast with all the disquiet
+which prevails outside. Life here is quite Dr Watts’s ideal—
+
+                “In books, and work, and healthful play,
+                  Let my first years be passed.”
+
+I can answer for the joyousness of the merry games that were played
+beneath the cool green shade of banana and bread-fruit trees, and also
+for the excellent work done in graver moments. Very pleasant, too, are
+the sweet young voices, trained in their singing by one of the Sisters,
+who is herself an admirable musician and a good vocalist. They were all
+greatly interested in hearing news of the Sisters at Tonga, which I was
+happily able to give them. Great is the delight of every one here at the
+return of the bishop, to whom all who desire peace seem to look with
+trust.
+
+Do you remember my telling you, when the Samoan chiefs came to Fiji to
+consult Sir A. Gordon, that they brought with them two pretty,
+high-caste girls, Faioo and Umoo, with whom we made great friends? I
+found them both here, and they seemed overjoyed on recognising me. They
+are both girls of good (Samoan) character, and daughters of high chiefs.
+Their fathers, who are in the victorious government party, likewise
+recognised and cordially welcomed me.
+
+A considerable number of the bright merry girls at the good Sisters’
+school are half-castes—the children of Samoan mothers by French,
+English, or German fathers. Amongst these, two gentle, modest-looking
+lassies were pointed out to me as the daughters of the notorious “Bully”
+Hayes, of whose piratical exploits I have heard many a highly seasoned
+yarn from the older residents in Fiji, where he occasionally appeared,
+as he did in all the other groups, as a very erratic comet, coming, and
+especially vanishing, when least expected, each time in a different
+ship, of which by _some_ means he had contrived to get possession;
+always engaged in successful trade with stolen goods; ever bland and
+winning in manner, dressed like a gentleman, decidedly handsome, with
+long silky brown beard; with a temper rarely ruffled, but with an iron
+will, for a more thoroughgoing scoundrel never sailed the seas. The
+friend who trusted to his courteous promises was his certain victim. If
+he was in the way, he was as likely as not to have his throat cut, or to
+be turned adrift on a desert isle. If owner of the vessel, he was
+probably landed to make arrangements for the sale of his cargo, while
+Bully Hayes was already on his way to some distant port to sell the said
+cargo for his own benefit, and then trade with the ship, till it became
+inconvenient to hold her, when she was deliberately scuttled.
+
+It is about twenty years since this notorious pirate first made his
+appearance in the Pacific, when for some reason he was landed on the
+Sandwich Isles, apparently against his will. He was then accompanied by
+Mrs Hayes, the mother of these two girls, who now lives at Apia in
+respected solitude. For many years her lord has cheered his voyages with
+companions from all manner of isles, whom he has contrived to dispose of
+so soon as metal more attractive presented itself.
+
+At last this inhuman miscreant has met his doom. Only a few days ago a
+vessel came into port bringing the news of his death. As he was entering
+his cabin he was knocked on the head with a marline-spike by his mate,
+who had suffered brutal ill-treatment at his hands, and so, determined
+on revenge. I doubt if even one woman was found to mourn him. It was a
+meet ending to such a career.
+
+A messenger has just run here in hot haste to tell me that a ship is in
+the act of sailing, and will take this letter. This morning we asked in
+vain if there were any chance of a mail, and were assured that there was
+none. I can barely catch this—so good-bye.
+
+                                                         _Same Evening._
+
+Truly those whites of Samoa are aggravating Ishmaelites—all striving to
+outwit one another, without one thought for the common weal. Ever since
+we anchored here we have been trying to learn whether any vessels were
+about to leave the harbour, and this very day we sent an express to the
+German consul, who replied that he believed it would be three weeks
+before a vessel sailed. But it seems that he represents Godeffroy’s
+house, whereas this ship belongs to Hedeman & Rouget; and all these
+firms are so jealous of one another, and so afraid of being asked to
+carry letters that their ships all try to sneak out of harbour without
+giving notice to the postal authorities.
+
+Dr Turner heard of this chance by the merest accident, through a
+grateful patient, and sent me word immediately, but being at the other
+end of a long beach, the information reached me just too late. Now weeks
+may elapse before there is another chance.
+
+Just now I mentioned the house of Godeffroy of Hamburg.[12] This place
+is the headquarters of that great firm, which absorbs the principal
+trade of the Pacific. There is “neither speech nor language” where the
+name of this omnivorous firm is not heard. At Cochin-China in the
+north-west, Valparaiso in the south-east, and Samoa midway, they have
+established centres, from which their emissaries radiate in every
+direction, and their vast fleet of trading vessels are for ever on the
+alert to enlarge the field of their operations. They are the Graballs of
+this side of the world. Hearing of the profitable trade carried on here
+by Messrs Brander & Hort of Tahiti, they decided to follow in their
+footsteps, and ere long succeeded in effectually supplanting them.
+
+This was partly effected by artfully fostering the intertribal disputes,
+which were ever smouldering among the Samoans, and then liberally
+supplying the combatants with arms and ammunition from their own arsenal
+at Liège (Belgium). For these useful imports they accepted payment in
+broad tracts of the most fertile lands in Samoa, where they now own
+about 25,000 acres of the finest alluvial soil and richest forest, all
+intersected by streams and rivers, acquired at a cost of about three
+shillings an acre! On this land they are establishing large plantations,
+upwards of 4000 acres being devoted to cotton. To work these they employ
+about 1000 “foreign labour,” imported from the multitudinous groups with
+which their vessels trade.
+
+Here, at Apia, they own a first-class harbour, and have established a
+regular shipbuilding-yard, wherein to refit old vessels and build new
+ones. And in many a remote isle, in various parts of the Pacific, they
+have acquired lands and harbours, to secure central points of operation.
+In the Ellis group they have bought the isle of Nukufetau, on account of
+its excellent harbour; and (passing onwards towards their original
+establishment at Cochin) they have secured 3000 acres on the isle of
+Yap, in the Pelew group, to the west of the Caroline Isles. I believe
+there is not one group in the Central Pacific where they have not
+established trading relations. They are said to have agents resident on
+every isle where there is any possibility of gain, and where the natives
+will tolerate the presence of a white man. Naturally the majority of
+these are by no means men calculated to improve the people; in many
+cases they are taken from the riff-raff, who in past years have sought
+in the isles an asylum from civilised laws, and by long residence have
+acquired a thorough knowledge of the habits and language of the natives.
+These men receive no salary. They are simply provided with the materials
+to build a solid house, and a supply of whatever trade is likely to
+prove acceptable to the people as barter, and are expected to accumulate
+an equivalent in produce within a reasonable period. No awkward
+questions as to character are asked. The _sine quâ non_ is a knowledge
+of the language, a power of discreet silence, and a capability of not
+quarrelling with the natives. To further the latter requirement, their
+employers stipulate that every agent of theirs shall have his own
+“establishment,” no matter from what isle he may import his companion.
+But they resolutely refuse to sanction the legal marriage of any German
+subject with a native woman.
+
+Nor is this the only point in which this mighty anti-Christian firm
+opposes itself to all efforts for the improvement of the people. To all
+their widely scattered agents one clear direction is given: “Never
+assist missionaries either by word or deed, but, wheresoever you may
+find them, use your best influence with the natives to obstruct and
+exclude them.”[13]
+
+It is interesting to find so plain an acknowledgment of the principles
+which animate so large a section of the mercantile communities in all
+quarters of the earth. In every case the opposition seems due to the
+same cause—a covert hatred to the teaching which discountenances
+immorality of all sorts, including that of exchanging bad goods at
+fictitious prices for useful products. It matters little whether blue
+beads and muskets, or opium (with a background of English artillery), be
+the goods to be disposed of, the principles involved, and the consequent
+antagonism to every agency for good, are necessarily the same.
+
+How well the agents and shipmasters carry out their instructions may be
+inferred from such an experience as that of the mission-ship Morning
+Star, which, a few years ago, made her way to the Kingsmill group on the
+equator. A pilot came out to meet her, and made her anchor three miles
+from the village, desiring that no one should venture to land without
+permission from the king. The latter, on hearing that it was a
+missionary ship, recalled the counsels given to him by the captains of
+various trading vessels, who, he said, had all warned him that should a
+missionary ever come to the isles he must on no account be permitted to
+land, as he would shortly bewitch both king and people. So the wary
+monarch vowed that no such sorcerer should set foot in his realms; and
+he accordingly sent a message to the strangers to say, that if they
+stood in need of anything he could give them, they should have it, but
+they must go right away, and never come back. Thus the unrighteous
+counsels prevailed, and the true friends were banished at the bidding of
+the selfish money-grubbers.
+
+It is unfortunately only too notorious that wherever, as in those
+northern isles, the natives have derived their first impressions of
+civilisation from traders, they have invariably deteriorated, and the
+white influence has been exerted to exclude all improving influences. On
+the other hand, throughout Polynesia, the missionaries were the first to
+occupy the field, where traders dared not venture, and in every case
+they so tamed the fierce savages that commerce naturally followed in
+their wake and under their protection. Yet even here no debt of
+gratitude is considered due to the successors of those early pioneers;
+and the antagonism of the traders to the missionaries is unfortunately
+notorious.
+
+From what I have told you, you can gather that the transactions of the
+house of Godeffroy are carried out on a pretty extensive scale; and as
+all European goods are sold at a clear profit of a hundred per cent,
+exclusive of all expenses, they contrive to heap up riches at a very
+rapid rate. One of their peculiarities is, that they never insure their
+ships. They pay their shipmasters very low salaries, rarely exceeding £5
+a month, but supplement this sum by allowing them a commission of three
+per cent on the net profits of each voyage.
+
+Another peculiarity, which is particularly annoying to the white
+community (and this is a point on which I speak feelingly), is that of
+despatching their ships from Apia with sealed orders, which are not
+opened till the vessel reaches a certain latitude, so that no one on
+board knows her destination. Consequently, however great a boon the
+chance of a passage might be to any person detained in the isles, or how
+valuable an opportunity of sending letters, ship after ship leaves this
+harbour without giving a hint of her intentions.
+
+The house of Godeffroy has not been the only purchaser of vast tracts of
+land in these isles. The Polynesian Land Company (whose claims to
+enormous tracts in the Fijian isles were somewhat upset by annexation,
+and the consequent necessity of proving their titles to their broad
+acres) carried on very pretty land speculations in Samoa, where they
+profess to have legally acquired about 300,000 acres on the four largest
+and most fertile islands. Their leader is a Mr Stewart, one of two
+brothers who have struck out for themselves very remarkable careers in
+these seas. The other brother was a well-known character in Tahiti, who
+blew a brilliant bubble company, which for a while dazzled the world of
+the South Seas—till the bubble burst, and the blower died miserably.
+
+                                      H.B.M. CONSULATE, _Tuesday Night_.
+
+Yesterday evening we were sitting in the verandah enjoying the coolness
+of the lovely evening, when we heard very pretty singing in a garden
+near. Some gentlemen who were calling took me to the spot, where a large
+party of Samoan girls were sitting on the grass beneath the palms and
+rosy oleanders. The singing and surroundings were all attractive. Indeed
+it is difficult to look on such a peaceful scene, and realise how very
+recently it was a hideous battle-field; and sad indeed to think how few
+days may elapse ere the grass—to-day so green—may be stained with the
+blood of all these fine men. In Samoan warfare the aim of each warrior
+is to secure as many heads as possible. Hence the sixty ghastly heads
+which were carried from here to all parts of the group only three months
+ago. But before they are so scattered, it is customary for the victors
+to pile them up in a hideous pyramid, surmounted by the head of the
+highest chief slain. An ugly feature in war here, is the practice of a
+large body of men landing at dead of night at some distance from an
+unguarded settlement, and stealing stealthily in, to surprise the
+unsuspecting sleepers: then suddenly rushing into the houses, slice off
+every man a head, of grey-haired patriarch or slumbering infant boy, and
+dashing down to the shore, where their canoes have meanwhile arrived,
+push off ere the startled villagers are sufficiently awake to arm for
+defence or vengeance. Only male heads are required. It would be
+considered cowardly to kill a woman. Nevertheless these are sometimes
+desperately wounded in the struggle to defend their little ones from
+their ruthless assassins.
+
+In old days, after a battle, such of the headless bodies as were
+recognised received decent burial; the others were left as carrion, a
+prey to the village dogs and pigs. The influence of Christianity now
+secures burial for all. Strange to say, it also secures a rigid
+observance of the Sabbath, on which day the belligerents, by common
+consent, abstain from fighting, and allow teachers and missionaries to
+pass freely in and out of their camps, holding religious services in
+which all join, each no doubt invoking the aid of the God of battles on
+his own behalf. I doubt whether many of the nations among whom
+Christianity has been long established, would pause in their battling
+from any deference to the day of rest. And though these raids and
+distributions of heads savour rather of Jewish than of Christian
+practices, I think the British Isles could have furnished pretty close
+parallels in the days of Border forays, when a foeman’s head, stuck on a
+halbert, was reckoned no mean trophy; or when one who was considered a
+traitor had fallen by the headsman’s axe, and his head and quartered
+body were stuck on pikes—a ghastly spectacle for all men—while his
+entrails were thrown into the fire. So you need not decry the
+Christianity of these poor Samoans, because the old war-spirit still
+stirs in their veins.
+
+I have just had a visit from Mrs G. A. Turner, who most kindly called to
+ask whether I would like to accompany her husband to a lovely place,
+twelve miles from here, where he expects to have a large meeting of the
+people. It is very tempting, and being a three days’ trip, would give me
+time for some sketches; but there is so much that is interesting here,
+that I have reluctantly declined.
+
+After luncheon Mr Pritchard took me along the shore to Malinunu, the
+village on a peninsula, where the unfortunate skirmish occurred between
+the Samoans and the men of the Barracouta. It is now the seat of
+government, and here the _Taimua_ and the _Faipule_, who are the
+triumphant faction, reign. One of their English instigators occupies the
+house of Malietoa, the conquered king, and lives under the special
+protection of the men whom he has beguiled. It is a tidy village of
+thatched houses, smothered in bananas and tall sugar-cane.
+
+                                                      _Wednesday Night._
+
+We have been exploring all the near neighbourhood. Passing through the
+grounds of the Fathers’ house (where the good bishop gave us welcome),
+we ascended a pretty steep hill to the Catholic college for young men—a
+large and very orderly establishment. It was a pretty walk, through
+woods and cultivated ground. Everything seems to grow here, and some
+plantations are worked on a large scale with imported foreign labour.
+Cotton, sugar-cane, maize, coffee, nutmegs, cinnamon, arrowroot,
+tapioca, millet, barley, and even rice, of a sort which does not require
+irrigation, and can be grown on high levels. Vegetables of all sorts
+thrive in the French gardens, telling of industry and care; but somehow
+here, as in Fiji, European flowers do not repay the trouble expended on
+them, except for old association. Their place is taken by the datura,
+with its heavy-scented, white, trumpet-shaped blossoms, the gay pride of
+Barbadoes, various fragrant jessamines, and hybiscus of all colours.
+
+In all these volcanic soils, water, and water only, is needed to convert
+the thirsty dust into most fertile earth. Here, what with perennial
+springs and an excessive rainfall, the mountains have an abundant
+water-supply; and in every ravine a clear sparkling stream is fed by
+countless rills and waterfalls, cool and delicious. But so dry and
+thirsty are the lower hills, that the generous streams, giving instead
+of receiving, are actually absorbed ere they reach the seaboard, and
+only a bed of dry stones marks the channel, by which in occasional
+floods the torrents rush into the ocean. Consequently all cultivation on
+the lower levels involves artificial irrigation.
+
+The fish supply here seems good. There are rock-fish in endless
+variety,—albicore, bonito, and a sort of salmon with white flesh, and a
+very delicate fish called the gar-fish, with a projecting lower jaw.
+When this creature grows large and strong, it sometimes unintentionally
+proves a very dangerous neighbour, as when startled by the approach of a
+canoe, it is very apt to spring on board with such force as seriously to
+injure any person whom it strikes with its sword-like jaw. I believe
+that nude natives have actually been killed by those frightened
+creatures. The fishers here still practise the somewhat unfair method of
+stupefying fish by throwing into the water the bruised seeds of the
+_hutu_, or Barringtonia tree. Turtle abound, both the hawk’s-bill, which
+yields the tortoise-shell of commerce, and the green. Prawns, shrimps,
+and eels are found in the rivers, while the coral-reefs yield all manner
+of shell-fish, lobsters, and crabs. I hear that oysters are to be had,
+but have not seen any.
+
+Speaking of the reef, the natives say that they can foretell a storm,
+hours before its approach, by noticing the echini[14] crawling into snug
+holes where they may lie secure, undisturbed by the raging waters. “The
+sea roars and the echini listen,” is the Samoan proverb to describe
+prudence.
+
+I have just heard with great interest that the _balolo_ (here called
+_palolo_)—those curious sea-worms, concerning whose annual visit to Fiji
+I wrote to you at the time—also honour the reef of Apia with a call,
+just in the same mysterious manner, rising to the surface of the sea for
+a couple of hours before sunrise on one given day, which the natives can
+always calculate beforehand, so as to be out by midnight, watching for
+the first glimmer of dawn, when, sure enough, countless myriads of black
+and green worms, thin as threads, and perhaps a yard long, come to the
+surface—an easy prey to the joyous crowd of men and girls, who scoop
+them up in baskets, nets, gourds, anything they can get hold of, each
+trying who can collect the biggest share of the writhing, wriggling
+worms which, when baked in a banana-leaf, are esteemed a most delicious
+dainty, and do taste something like spinach and salt water, with a
+_soupçon_ of lobster. But the extraordinary thing about them is their
+only rising once a year for two hours, and never mistaking their set
+time, then disappearing totally till the following year. In Samoa, I am
+told, the day falls in August. In Fiji a few come one morning in
+October, but their grand day is about 25th November.
+
+This afternoon Captain Aube kindly lent us his whale-boat to take us
+across the creek to Matautu, which is the further end of the settlement.
+We went to make some small purchases at the various stores, chiefly to
+see them. One of these belongs to the celebrated Stewart, whose partner
+being an American, the firm has the advantage of flying either the
+Union-jack or the Stars and Stripes, as may best suit the tide of
+affairs. At present this house is divided against itself; and a few days
+ago the agent of the American partner declared the place to be the sole
+property of _his_ superior, and having sealed everything with the
+consular seal, he ran up the Stars and Stripes. Being, however, obliged
+to go to Fiji on business, Stewart’s agent has broken these precious
+seals, and in the name of _his_ chief, has hoisted the ensign of
+Britain. This is a fair sample of the sort of pull-devil, pull-baker way
+in which business is conducted in this curious community. It leads to
+endless complications, as each party invariably appeals to his consul to
+visit his opponent with all the terrors of the law. At the present
+moment Stewart’s store is a centre of interest, because the American
+consul wishes forcibly to remove thence a certain Captain Wright, a
+citizen of the United States, who defies his authority, and whom we saw
+sitting peacefully in the store, under the shadow of the Union-jack.
+
+The coin chiefly in circulation here is the Chilian and Bolivian dollar,
+of very debased silver, commonly known in the Pacific as “iron-money.”
+Its introduction was one of the sharp speculations of Messrs Godeffroy,
+who obtained an enormous amount at a very cheap rate, and therewith
+commenced trade with the Samoans, who accept the dollar as the
+equivalent of 100 cents, or the half dollar as 50 cents, whereas two
+half dollars or one whole, are barely worth 75 cents. So the profit on
+this little job was considerable—and if it _has_ added one more straw to
+poor Samoa’s burden of trouble, that is no concern of the traders.
+
+On our homeward way we called on a very friendly lady, who, with her
+daughters, was engaged in preparing an immense array of excellent
+pastry, for a great picnic “_Fa-Samoa_”[15] which is to be given
+to-morrow in honour of us, the visitors. Then we went on to the convent,
+to invite the good Sisters to join us, and bring all their girls. I am
+sure they will enjoy the chance of a French talk with their countrymen.
+
+                  *       *       *       *       *
+
+It is quite impossible to get at the truth about anything here. Another
+German vessel went out of harbour this morning. No one knew she was
+going till she was actually under way. I can only hope that my letter
+may reach you some day, by some route! Meanwhile, good-night.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VIII
+    THE ISHMAELITES OF THE PACIFIC—INJUDICIOUS INTERVENTION—FA-SAMOA
+PICNIC—A TORCHLIGHT WALK—TRAINING COLLEGE AT MALUA—APT ILLUSTRATIONS BY
+    NATIVE PREACHERS—DR TURNER—MISSION TO THE NEW HEBRIDES—ESCAPE TO
+                  SAMOA—OF MANY CHANGES ON MANY ISLES.
+
+
+                                           BRITISH CONSULATE,
+                                       _Thursday Night, 27th September_.
+
+I was roused at early dawn by a French sailor appearing at my open door.
+(All rooms in these countries open on to the verandah.) He brought
+despatches, which he begged I would immediately translate for the
+vice-consul. A most senseless row has taken place, and all the
+inhabitants are in as great a turmoil as wasps whose nest has been
+disturbed.
+
+It appears that the American consul, though personally mixed up in many
+questionable transactions here, has contrived effectually to bewilder
+the mind of the too sympathetic and kind captain of the Seignelay, with
+the story of his woes, and of the ill-treatment and insults to which he
+has been subjected. So last night he went on board to solicit armed
+assistance to enable him to capture several refractory American
+subjects, who refused to acknowledge his authority.
+
+Without a thought of possible consequences, and acting on the kind
+impulse of giving the required help to an unfortunate official, Captain
+Aube agreed to lend Mr Griffin the necessary force. A considerable body
+of armed men were accordingly landed at 10 P.M., and were led by the
+U.S. consul to Stewart’s store, whence Captain Wright had just departed.
+Stewart’s agents wrote a protest against such proceedings, then walked
+out of the house, locking it, and pocketing the key, leaving only a sick
+man inside. They affirmed that Wright was not in the house, but added
+that if a warrant were obtained from the British consulate, the U.S.
+consul might search to his heart’s content. Ignoring all remonstrance,
+the search-party broke open the house, and sought in vain for the bird
+who had flown.
+
+Meanwhile another boat-load had gone in the opposite direction to search
+for more delinquents, none of whom were captured. And a third party came
+to demand the surrender of the house next to this one, which the bishop
+claims as Church property, though Stewart’s agent has thought fit there
+also to hoist the British flag. This demonstration also proved futile,
+as the said agent, Mr Hunt, presented a firm front, and refused to quit
+the premises. The whole thing has been a sort of Don Quixote and the
+windmills business, resulting in nothing but stirring up much bad blood.
+Of course immense excitement prevails in consequence of this insult
+offered to a house flying the Union-jack. (Poor Union-jack! it is made
+to sanction some very shady doings in these far corners of the earth.)
+The Franco-Griffin party allege that the house is American property, and
+that the unjustifiable proceeding was that of breaking open the U.S.
+consular seals and hauling down the Stars and Stripes!
+
+At the best, it is a low, contemptible row; and I am dreadfully sorry
+(as are all the French officers) that their kind captain’s Quixotic
+kindness should have drawn him into it. But it is more difficult to
+arrive at the truth here than in any other place I know of. It seems as
+if every one’s chief occupation in life was to rake up stories, old and
+new, against his neighbour; and these are swallowed and made much of,
+without any allowance for the fact that they are retailed by vicious
+foes. Some of the poison-mongers in this poor settlement were well-known
+characters in Fiji, and only left it when, after annexation, it became
+too warm for their comfort. I have vainly tried to impress some of my
+friends with a due estimate of these men’s antecedents, but to no
+purpose; and I hear their words quoted as gospel.
+
+So great was the hubbub and perturbation from one end of “the beach” to
+the other, that our proposed picnic was very near being given up.
+However, wiser counsels prevailed, and angry feelings were smoothed over
+the more readily, as none of the principals were present. The party
+consisted of about a dozen ladies, and half as many French officers.
+Three of the sisters (Sœur Marie, Sœur St Hilaire, and Sœur Sept
+Martyrs) brought their little family of about sixty Samoan girls, who
+executed dances for our amusement as we sat on the pleasant turf at the
+spot selected for luncheon—a grassy lawn embowered in golden alamanders
+and scarlet hybiscus, and other bright blossoms, which soon adorned the
+tawny heads of the scholars. The dances were monotonous and ungraceful,
+as usual here, degenerating into hideous grimaces. They have none of the
+attraction of the beautiful Fijian dances. Nor have these damsels such
+pretty manners as the maidens in the Fijian schools. The little Doctor
+was considerably astonished (though he bore the shock philosophically)
+when a forward young woman danced up to him, and snatching off his hat,
+transferred it to her own well cocoa-nut-oiled head, while another
+patted his face with both hands, amid applausive laughter from her
+companions. But these were, happily, exceptional; and many of the girls
+appeared gentle and modest, and several were very pretty, with lithe
+figures and splendid eyes. But they all have beautiful dark-brown eyes.
+
+A great feed, _Fa-Samoa_, was next spread on the grass, on layers of
+fresh green banana-leaves. There were roast sucking-pigs, and pigeons
+stewed in _taro_ leaves, or else baked on hot stones in earth ovens;
+cray-fish, and prawns, and divers kinds of fish; pine-apples, bananas,
+and oranges; salad of cocoa-palm, like most delicious celery;
+bread-fruit prepared in various ways—boiled, baked, and roast in
+wood-ashes; wonderful native puddings, made of ripe plantains, _taro_,
+bread-fruit, and other materials, each beat up fine, and baked
+separately, then all worked together with the creamy juice extracted
+from ripe cocoa-nut, which, when heated, turns to oil, and is so
+exceedingly rich that few people can eat much of it. However, it is
+really very good—at least some preparations are. The puddings are so
+very oily that each portion is tied up separately in a strip of silky
+young banana-leaf, heated over the fire to make it oil-proof.
+
+In addition to these Samoan dainties, every lady had sent a contribution
+of pastry, salad, or other good things; and the excellent _chef_ of the
+Seignelay had done his part admirably, as usual. Nor had that hospitable
+vessel neglected to send ample remembrance from the vineyards of France,
+though the correct drink in the South Seas is the inevitable cocoa-nut
+water,—and an excellent one it is, cool and refreshing, provided the nut
+has just been gathered. No matter how burning the sun in which it hangs,
+it is always cool when newly severed from beneath the crown of shady
+leaves; but after a while it becomes slightly warm and mawkish in taste,
+so a true connoisseur requires his nuts to be plucked at the last
+moment. Then some ingenious native splits the thick outer husk by
+striking it on a sharp upright stick, and tears it all off, except a
+small green stand like an inverted bowl, which supports the nut, so that
+you need not empty it till you feel inclined. Then he cuts off the top
+of the nut, which is lined with the thinnest coating of white jelly.
+This is the pulp just beginning to form, and in this ivory-lined cup you
+find about two pints of clear sweetish water. When a row of nuts thus
+prepared are placed for every guest at such a banquet as this, they
+suggest a row of brownish-yellow ostrich-eggs, mounted in pale-green
+enamel!
+
+An excellent dish, which I would introduce at home were it possible,
+consists of young _taro_ leaves, stewed in the rich oily cream of
+cocoa-nut kernel, mixed with salt water, which is the only substitute
+for salt. Hence cocoa-nut shells containing sea-water are placed beside
+each guest, that he may therein dip his food to give it a relish. To
+have done quite the correct thing, our roast sucking-pigs should have
+been carved with a piece of split bamboo; but I fear that in this matter
+we were guilty of innovation, though we quite decided that bits of green
+banana-leaf were the nicest possible plates.
+
+We were happily not expected to partake of the national cakes, made of
+putrid bread-fruit. I told you how, in Fiji, vast stores of bananas are
+buried in pits, and there left for months to ferment, after which the
+pits are opened, and the pestilential odour that nearly poisons the
+unaccustomed nose, announces a great feast of _mandrai_—_i.e._, bread.
+In Samoa, bananas abound all the year round, so there is no need to
+store them. But bread-fruit is only in season for about six months, so
+the surplus crop is stored in pits lined with banana-leaves; of course
+it soon ferments, but in that condition is preserved, perhaps, for
+years, as the older it is, the more highly it is prized. You can perhaps
+imagine how fearful is the smell of this dainty. But it is all a matter
+of taste—the ripe Stilton cheese, dear to the fine old English
+gentleman, is, to a Samoan, infinitely more revolting than his
+unfragrant cakes are to us.
+
+Our surroundings were beautiful. Far below us lay the blue Pacific with
+its white breakers and many tinted coral-reefs, and on every side the
+spurs and ravines of great green hills, all densely clothed with richest
+tropical vegetation,—huge _eevie_ trees, with roots like coils of
+twisted snakes, and branches all bearded with long grey lichen, falling
+in streamers and entangled by the twining vines; while all manner of
+parasitic plants, orchids, and bird’s-nest ferns, nestle in every
+crevice. We had come by a lovely path through groves of bread-fruit and
+bananas, oranges, and other flowering trees, with here and there patches
+of cultivation—tall sugar-canes and maize—then tree-ferns, matted with
+purple convolvulus, and with an undergrowth of soft green grass. The
+gleaming sunlight found its way through that leafy canopy, and its
+dancing rays checkered the cool dark shadows with flecks of golden
+green. It was all soft, and lovely, and peaceful.
+
+Ere the fragments of the feast, and the coffee-pots, and the crockery,
+were repacked, the brief tropical day was done, and the setting sun
+changed the broad blue waters into molten gold. Then we retraced our way
+through the forest, no longer sunlit, but sombre and very still, save
+for the sound of our own voices. But due provision had been made for the
+darkness; and many friends and relations of the Samoan girls had come
+out to meet us, carrying long torches of cocoa-palm leaves, which blazed
+with a clear bright light, throwing a ruddy glow on all around, on
+semi-nude dusky figures, glossy foliage, tall white palm-stems, and the
+great buttressed roots of the chestnuts, and on the brown-thatched
+cottages, whence groups of pleasant olive-coloured people looked out and
+cried _Alofa!_ to which kind greeting we responded, _Ola alofa!_[16]
+
+And so the _Fa-Samoa_ picnic has gone off very pleasantly, and we
+returned here to find all quiet, and to exchange the usual kindly
+courtesies with the refugees, who now have settled down for the night,
+as I must also do, that I may be ready to start at daybreak to get a
+sketch of the town and bay.
+
+                                     H.B.M. CONSULATE, _Saturday Night_.
+
+We returned this morning from a most interesting expedition to Malua,
+the great college of the London Mission, of which Dr Turner, senior, is
+the head. It is about twelve miles from here, and Dr G. A. Turner, of
+the Medical Mission, most kindly volunteered to take M. Pinart and
+myself in his boat. So he called for us yesterday morning, after an
+early breakfast. We had a very beautiful row along the coast, and
+received the most cordial of welcomes from the Doctor, who is a fine old
+Scot, with a pretty, pleasant, Highland wife. You home people can
+perhaps scarcely realise what a very great pleasure it is, in a far land
+like this, to find one’s self suddenly dropped into the very heart of a
+real Scotch nest of the best type, and at once to be treated like a
+friend. I have found such a welcome from many of my countrymen in many
+lands, but nowhere more pleasantly than in the peaceful home at Malua.
+
+The present Mrs Turner was the widow of Mr M‘Nair, one of the
+missionaries of Erromango, whose little daughter Ella, a pretty child
+eight years of age, is the pet of the family.
+
+You must not infer from my speaking of a college, that Malua bears the
+slightest resemblance to any collegiate institution in Europe. It is
+essentially South Sea, which means that it is suitable to the climate
+and the people, and it consists of a large village of about sixty neat
+thatched cottages, laid out in a square, at one side of which stands the
+large class-room. Each cottage is the home of a student with his wife
+and family, preference in the filling up of vacancies being given to
+married men, both as a means of educating the women and children, and
+also because the people, in applying for teachers, generally ask for one
+whose wife can teach their wives and daughters.[17]
+
+Each cottage home is embowered in pleasant greenery and bright flowers,
+for each student is required to cultivate a garden sufficient for the
+requirements of his family, and to raise a surplus supply, which he may
+sell to provide them with clothing.
+
+Dr Turner himself founded this college in the year 1844, when the
+mission began to realise the extreme difficulty of keeping up a supply
+of trained teachers, not only for two districts in the group itself, but
+for the numerous other isles to which Samoan teachers had gone forth as
+pioneers.
+
+Besides, those early days had passed when the foreigners had
+been received as heaven-sent messengers, and hailed as the
+_Papalangi_—_i.e._, those who have rent the heavens (the name still
+applied to all foreigners throughout Polynesia). At first it was enough
+that a teacher had learnt the leading doctrines of Christianity as
+opposed to idolatry; but now these were generally accepted by all the
+people, many of whom took careful notes of every sermon they heard, and
+were as keen as any old wife in Scotland, in detecting any error in the
+teaching of their minister.
+
+Small mercy would these Samoan critics have shown to such a preacher as
+that young curate who, in his anxiety to improve the story of the
+Prodigal Son, expatiated at such length on the peculiar sacrifice made
+in the selection of _the_ fatted calf, which was no common calf, but one
+which had evidently been a household pet for Years, and YEARS, and
+YEARS!
+
+The Samoans are natural orators, and love to illustrate their subject
+with facts and comparisons from every source within their ken. So the
+preacher who would rivet the attention of his hearers needed to have
+studied his subject well. But at that time he had no books to help him,
+no commentaries to refer to, only a translation of three Gospels and a
+few Scripture lessons; and many a teacher felt, what one
+expressed,—namely, that he was like a man attempting to cut down a
+forest with a blunt axe; or like a foolish man, always hammering, but
+never hitting the nail on the head.
+
+The necessity of an educational institution was therefore apparent, and
+the chiefs were so favourably disposed to the scheme, that they offered
+to clear out of a whole village and make it over to the mission. It was,
+however, considered preferable to buy a piece of land on the coast, in a
+place quite apart from all other settlements; so Malua was selected, and
+fifty acres of land purchased in due form. This land was reclaimed from
+the bush by the students themselves, who raise yams, _taro_, and bananas
+in abundance, and have also planted several thousand bread-fruit trees,
+cocoa-palms, and other fruit-bearing trees; so that this noble
+institution is almost, if not altogether, self-supporting.
+
+From its commencement to the present day, fully two thousand teachers
+and native ministers have been here trained, including a considerable
+number of men from far-distant Papuan Isles—from the New Hebrides, New
+Caledonia, the Tokelau, and Savage Isles—all speaking different tongues,
+but here meeting together to learn what they can, and then carry the
+truth to their own distant isles. Oh how these perplexed teachers must
+long for a new Pentecostal gift, to enable them to address these men,
+each in his own language!
+
+It would be difficult to imagine a healthier, happier life, than that of
+these students. At the first glimmer of the lovely tropical dawn, the
+college bell rings to mark the hour for household prayer. (There is
+probably not a house in Samoa where the family do not assemble daily for
+morning and evening prayer.) Then all the students go out, either to
+work in the gardens, or to fish in the calm lagoon. At eight the bell
+rings again to warn them that it is time to bathe and breakfast, to be
+ready for their class at nine. Classes and lectures continue till four,
+when they are again free to go fishing, gardening, carpentering, or
+whatever they prefer. At sunset each family meets for evening prayer;
+then the men study by themselves till half-past nine, when the curfew
+bell (true _couvre-feu_) warns them to put out their lights.
+
+On Saturday evening there is a prayer-meeting in the institution chapel,
+when the students take it in turn to deliver a short address.
+
+Sunday is of course observed very strictly. The day begins with a
+prayer-meeting at six. At morning and afternoon service all the
+neighbouring villagers assemble, and the intervening and later hours are
+filled up with Sunday-school for children and Bible-classes for adults.
+A simple service, with a good deal of singing, ends the day. The Holy
+Communion is celebrated on the first Sunday of each month.
+
+The institution rules are few and simple; but for any infringement of
+them the penalty is a fine, which goes towards the expense of lights.
+
+The course of instruction includes arithmetic, geography, natural
+philosophy, writing, composition, Scripture history, and systematic and
+practical theology. For lack of books, Dr Turner and his fellow-tutor
+found it necessary, day by day, to write out copious notes of their
+lectures, and give them to all the young men to copy. Consequently each,
+on leaving the college, at the end of a four years’ course, carried with
+him a large store of papers for reference.
+
+Thanks to the diligent labours of Dr Turner and his colleagues (who
+during many years devoted about five hours daily to preparing
+translations for publication), the libraries of Samoa now contain
+Scripture narratives and commentaries on the Old Testament,—commentaries
+on the Epistles and Gospels, Elements of Astronomy, Elements of Natural
+Philosophy, and various other works.
+
+We were told various examples of the acute and pithy remarks of the
+native teachers, and of the excellent illustrations they sometimes make
+use of. Thus a hollow professor is likened to the cast-off shell of a
+lobster, so perfect in every claw and feeler, even to the transparent
+covering of the eyes, that the fisher, peering into the clear pools on
+the reef, mistakes it for a true and excellent prize, and only learns
+his error as he grasps the worthless shell.
+
+A strange illustration of “cutting off a right hand or a right foot, or
+plucking out a right eye, that offend,” was given by a teacher at
+Tutuila, who told how often he had watched the _mali’o_, or land-crab,
+which by day burrows deep in the soil, but by night hurries down to the
+sea to feed and drink. It is a wondrous cleanly creature; and the
+Samoans declare that if on its seaward way, as it presses through the
+tall grass, it should chance to come in contact with any filth, which
+adheres to its legs, it will deliberately wrench them off, and thus,
+self-mutilated, hobbles back to its hole, there to hide till its legs
+grow again. It is positively affirmed that this most extraordinary crab
+has been known deliberately to wrench off its eight legs in succession,
+and then drag itself home with the greatest difficulty by means of its
+nippers. I must confess I think this crab would have shown more
+common-sense had he gone to the sea or the nearest stream and washed his
+dirty legs. But you must allow that the illustration was an apt one.
+
+Those who on hearing good words hearken, and for a season dwell on them
+in their hearts, but after a while return to their careless ways, are
+compared to the sensitive plant, which when touched closes its leaves
+and droops to the very earth, but anon rises up again as brave as ever.
+A backslider is compared to a certain fish which comes from the ocean to
+feed on the reef, and which for a day or two continues silvery white,
+but after a while becomes dark and unwholesome.
+
+A little sin is as a hole in a fisherman’s basket, through which, one by
+one, fall the fish for which he has toiled so eagerly. First he loses
+all his little fish, and gradually, as the hole enlarges, the large fish
+also escape, and at last he reaches his journey’s end with an empty
+basket.
+
+The taint of old sins, clinging to one who would fain put away evil
+things, is compared to a strongly scented oil, with which a bottle-gourd
+has once been filled. Many and many a time must that gourd be washed ere
+it will lose the scent, and be fit to hold water for drinking.[18]
+
+Still more striking is the illustration of a stately bread-fruit
+tree, fair to look upon, with large glossy leaves and abundant
+fruit,—a tree which in the natural course of healthy life will, when
+full grown, send up from its roots strong shoots, which yield their
+first crop in the second or third year, so that ere long the
+patriarchal tree is the centre of a leafy fruit-bearing grove. But
+there is an insignificant-looking parasitic fungus—merely a black
+spot like the smut that comes on wheat—which is fatal to this fair
+tree. Once it can establish itself, it spreads like a canker. The
+rich green leaves turn yellow, and the disease is soon carried from
+tree to tree, till the whole grove is sickly and blighted. It brings
+no fruit to perfection, and ere long the trees are dead. Only one
+antidote is known. It is said that there grows in the depths of the
+forest a glorious lily,[19] and that if some of its bulbs are
+brought and planted among the roots of the sickly trees, they will
+recover. And so, when the deadly rust of sin has cankered the heart
+of man, one only remedy can avail,—the life-giving influence of HIM
+who is called the true Lily.
+
+Again, another teacher illustrates the necessity of rooting out all bad
+habits, no matter how trifling they may seem, by the example of the wild
+_taro_, which sends rootlets creeping in every direction, so that though
+the main root may be dug up, suckers innumerable remain, which need only
+time to bring them to sturdy life.
+
+Another parable is furnished by the sugar-cane, which grows tall and
+beautiful to the eye, but unless due care is taken to clear away the
+decayed leaves from around its roots, worms gather there, and pierce the
+cane, and rapidly multiplying within, fatten and flourish, so that when
+the husbandman gathers his cane, he finds its precious juice all gone,
+and in its place a multitude of loathsome worms. Even such, said the
+preacher, is the growth of little sins.
+
+The soul that seeks to soar heavenward is likened to the _piraki_—a
+small bird, which, like the skylark, seems to lose itself in the light.
+On the other hand, the snow-white tern, which, beneath its lovely white
+plumage, has a dull black skin, is a meet symbol of the hypocrite, whose
+fair feathers shall one day be plucked off, to reveal the false
+professor.
+
+Some of the questions propounded by the students are equally noteworthy,
+and few indeed suggest that confused wool-gathering of which every
+school examiner in Britain can quote such strange examples. The question
+asked by one young man was, “What is meant by Satan falling from
+heaven?” And I could not help thinking of the rash Sunday-school teacher
+who asked her class why, in Jacob’s dream, the angels were seen
+descending by a ladder. To which replied a sharp child, “Please, ’twas
+because the angels were puking, and they couldna flee!” She had charge
+of her mother’s poultry, which just then were moulting, so the
+comparison was forcible.
+
+Hitherto the students do not appear to have been troubled with any
+speculative difficulties regarding the Mosaic account of Creation,
+which, in Samoa, has reversed the European order, and has superseded the
+“Darwinian” theory. According to the legend of the isles, “In the
+beginning” the great god Tangaloa sent his daughter, in the form of a
+bird, to visit the great waters, which then covered the face of the
+earth. She found a rock rising above the surface, and there rested a
+while ere returning to the heavens. From time to time she revisited the
+rock, and carried thither some earth—and then a creeping plant. After a
+while she returned, and her plant had covered the earth, which gradually
+enlarged, as the waters dried up. Then the plant withered and decayed,
+and as it turned into slimy nastiness, a multitude of worms appeared,
+and they grew fat and flourished, and in due course of time men and
+women were evolved. So, you see, the Samoans had traced the human race
+back to its slimy origin, long before Dr Darwin electrified the
+civilised world with his discoveries; but they have now discarded that
+ignoble ancestry in favour of the Divine theory.
+
+A Samoan teacher often illustrates his meaning by some ingenious
+allusion to the old legends and mythology of the isles. In his
+expositions of the Old Testament he is greatly assisted by the number of
+Samoan customs, strangely analogous to those of Syria and Palestine. Dr
+Turner has collected a multitude of such identities—and also of the
+striking metaphors and hyperboles dear to the Samoans. Thus, “Him that
+overcometh will I make a pillar in the temple of my God,” had strange
+significance to those who believed that in Pulotu, the Samoan Paradise,
+the temple of their great god was supported by human pillars, who in
+this world had been great chiefs, whose highest aim had been the
+attainment of this honoured office.
+
+“They took branches of palm-leaves and went forth to meet Him, crying
+Hosanna,” suggests the green leaves and branches often carried by the
+followers of a chief, and their songs in his praise.
+
+In rejoicing, David “dancing and leaping before the ark,” exactly
+describes the leaping and dancing and strange capers which even a
+high-caste chief will perform as he goes before a person or thing whom
+he wishes to honour.
+
+Riddles, such as those propounded by Samson, are among the commonest
+amusements of Samoa, and are combined with forfeits.
+
+With reference to King David’s prayer, when “he went in and sat before
+the Lord,” it is remarked that in Samoa, as in all the Polynesian
+groups, it is a mark of disrespect to stand in the presence of a
+superior. To sit on the ground with the head bent down is the correct
+attitude of reverence and devotion.
+
+In the account of David’s covenant with Jonathan, the latter “stripped
+himself of the robe that was upon him, and gave it to David,”—an action
+which is the commonest expression of friendship in the South Seas.
+
+“He kissed him, and smelled the smell of his raiment,” is an excellent
+description of the South Sea custom of greeting all friends with a
+prolonged and impressive sniff. They touch noses and sniff, and then
+smell the hand and the garment of the superior.
+
+“Children by adoption” is strangely expressive in isles where every
+family has adopted children. The term “brothers” includes nephews and
+cousins in Samoa as in Judea. “Endless genealogies,” and reverence for
+ancestry, are equally marked features in both races.
+
+“Take up thy bed and walk” is easily understood, where a pile of soft
+mats is the bed of the highest chief.
+
+“They cast off their clothes, and threw dust in the air” is a Samoan
+expression of great anger. The expressions descriptive of mourning for
+the dead in Syria might have been written in the South Seas. “They rent
+their clothes and cut themselves.” “They disfigure their faces.” Even
+so, those strange islanders deliberately cut their faces with sharks’
+teeth and other sharp instruments, and bruised their heads with stones
+in token of grief. “Cut off thine hair and take up a lamentation;” “Make
+great wailing for the dead;” “They mourned for him thirty days;” “They
+ate the offerings of the dead;” They fast “till the sun be down,”—all
+exactly describe Samoan custom. Further, “They made a very great burning
+for him.” (Here they made great bonfires in honour of the dead and also
+burned their own flesh with firebrands.)
+
+The custom alluded to by the man of Mount Ephraim, who spoke to his
+mother of “the shekels of silver that were taken from thee, about which
+thou cursedst,” had its counterpart in heathen Samoa, where a man would
+sit down and deliberately invoke curses on an unknown thief, praying
+that rats might eat his fine mats and cloth; that fire might blast his
+eyes and those of his god; that the shark might devour him, or the
+thunder slay him; or that at least he might be afflicted with sores and
+ulcers. Even to this day you may sometimes observe a tiny square of
+matting, with strips of white _tappa_, hanging from a fruit tree, or a
+few reeds stuck into the ground and tied together at the top
+(clam-shells being buried beneath them), or some similar mark which
+appeals to the superstitious fear of the possible thief, warning him of
+the curses that will attach to whoever breaks the _taboo_. I have seen
+this identical custom in many lands, from Ceylon eastward.
+
+A suspected thief was put upon oath in presence of the chiefs. Some
+venerated object was brought from the temple—a sacred stone, a
+trumpet-shell, or a cocoa-nut shell, which ranked as a divining-cup—and
+the accused, laying his hand on this object, had to pray that the gods
+would slay him if he spoke falsely. If he swore by a holy stone, a
+handful of grass was laid upon it, to signify that the doom of the false
+swearer would include his household, and that all his kindred would
+perish, and the grass grow on the site of their dwelling.
+
+With reference to war customs. “The Philistine cursed David by his
+gods.” “Curse ye Meroz, ... because they came not to the help of the
+Lord.” So would a company of Samoan chiefs sit in conclave, and pray
+that the gods would curse those who refused to help in war. “Let his
+house be made a dunghill.” “They shall bring out the bones out of their
+graves.” “Fell every good tree, and stop all wells of water.” All these
+were literal features in Samoan warfare. “Lay ye the heads in two heaps
+at the entering in of the gate,” was also quite a natural direction. The
+description of the songs of the Jewish women in honour of the victor,
+when “the women answered one another as they played, and said,
+
+                     Saul hath slain his thousands,
+                     And David his ten thousands,”
+
+might have been written of Samoan women describing the deeds of their
+warriors, and thereby often stirring up bitter anger and jealousies.
+
+With regard to weapons, the “sling and stone,” the “smooth stone of the
+brook,” the “arrows, ... the poison whereof drinketh up my spirit,”
+exactly describe those of the Pacific; while the description of Saul
+encamped under a tree, “having his spear in his hand,” is a true picture
+of any fine old South Sea chief. Further, it is said, “The trumpeters
+stood by the king;” and though the trumpets of the Pacific are only
+perforated shells, the blast blown through them in honour of a chief, or
+to rally warriors in time of war, is sufficiently piercing to rouse the
+dead.
+
+The crown and the bracelet worn by King Saul in battle seem most natural
+adornments to these chiefs, whose bracelets and crowns of nautilus shell
+attracted our admiration at their council of war. As our Lord spoke of
+unclean spirits walking through dry places, seeking rest, so these
+islanders believe that unquiet spirits roam at large in the forest, and
+they propitiate them by offerings of food.
+
+In the New Hebrides, Dr Turner met with a curious illustration of that
+strange history of Elisha giving his staff to Gehazi, and bidding him
+lay it on the face of the sick child. The staff of the New Hebrides was
+a polished stick of black iron-wood, which was the representative of a
+god, whose ministering priest was one of the disease-makers. When
+summoned to attend a case of sickness, this sacred staff was carried to
+the sick man’s room, and the priest, leaning upon it, pronounced certain
+charmed words, after which recovery was considered certain.
+
+In Samoa and other groups, all disease was supposed to be the work of
+malignant wizards, therefore to them the friends of the sick applied for
+healing, or at least for counsel, even as Ahaziah sent his messengers to
+the priests of the god of Ekron to learn whether he would recover of his
+sickness.
+
+For the healing of the sick, as well as conferring honour and personal
+comfort, “anointing with oil” was as familiar in Judea as in Samoa.
+“Thou anointest my head with oil,” might be said by any honoured guest
+in these isles; while “oil to make him of a cheerful countenance” was
+equally requisite. St James’s directions for the healing of the sick by
+the prayers of the Church elders, and anointing with oil, literally
+describe the course pursued in various parts of the Pacific—as, for
+instance, in the Tokelau isles, where the friends of a sick man send for
+the priest of the disease-making god, who comes, and dipping his hand in
+oil, passes it gently over the sufferer, offering prayers for his
+recovery. An important part of the ceremony, however, not prescribed by
+St James, is the offering of fine mats to the priest.
+
+These are but a few of the multitude of illustrations collected by Dr
+Turner.[20] There are many more, such as the occasional custom of
+embalming the dead, the compulsory observance of the rite of
+circumcision, contempt for nations who neglect it, marriage customs, the
+punishment of death for adultery, the law of divorce; the singularly
+patriarchal law which obliged each bride to be accompanied by one or
+more handmaids, taken from among her near relations, and who filled the
+place of secondary wives—so that a chief who owned three or four wives,
+possessed such a large and troublesome harem, that the majority were
+generally allowed to return to their parents; and lastly, the custom
+that a widow must become the wife of her deceased husband’s brother, or,
+failing him, of his nearest male relative.
+
+The plurality of wives appears, singularly enough, to have been little
+more than a business transaction, in which the principal had very small
+interest. The marriages of a high chief were simply so many speculations
+in fine mats, which the bride brought as her dower, and which the
+bridegroom was expected to hand over to his principal supporters, or
+head men, who had arranged the match, and provided the feast. These men
+were the bankers of the tribe in whose hands its property accumulated;
+and of course they lost no means of adding to it, as well as of
+strengthening clan connections by multiplying marriages. Hence this
+question formed one of the chief difficulties of the early missionaries.
+
+This very practical reason for polygamy also accounted in a great
+measure for the curious custom of adopting the children of living
+parents, which prevailed to so extraordinary an extent. It appears that
+the child was really little more than an excuse for a constant exchange
+of property, its true parents constantly sending gifts of _tonga_—that
+is, native property—to the adoptive parents; while these as often sent
+back goodwill-offerings of _oloa_—_i.e._, foreign goods.
+
+When the students are considered sufficiently advanced, they are
+occasionally sent to help the teacher of one of the neighbouring
+villages, and practise the art of preaching, ere being appointed to the
+sole charge of a congregation. Of course only the well-tried men are
+promoted to the rank of native minister.
+
+The scale of ecclesiastical pay is certainly not such as to induce men
+to enter the service of the Church for filthy lucre’s sake. A house, a
+certain amount of food, and a small annual contribution in kind, the
+value of which in no case exceeds £10, and is generally much less, is
+certainly not an undue share of loaves and fishes, especially as no
+agent of the mission is allowed to engage in any manner of trade, or
+other secular occupation, beyond the cultivation of his own garden. The
+annual contribution of his parishioners consists probably of
+half-a-dozen mats, value from 2s. to 6s.; 30 to 40 yards of calico,
+value 6d. a yard; some pieces of native cloth, worth 1s. each; a larger
+piece of _tappa_, for a curtain; a shirt, a fowl, a duck, two pigs, and
+a few nondescript coins of various nations and small value.
+
+I have heard so many unfair and untrue insinuations made by white
+traders, and quoted without further inquiry by many travellers, to the
+effect that many missionaries are in reality grasping and avaricious
+traders, that it may be as well to mention that such false accusations
+are invariably made by men who find their unjust gains somewhat lessened
+by the presence of men whose standard of barter is more honourable. If a
+native comes to work for a missionary, or brings him vegetables or fish
+for sale, and receives in payment a larger piece of cloth, or a
+knife—both of better quality than he would receive from the trader—he
+naturally learns something of the fair value of his work, or his goods.
+
+Moreover, one of the first proofs of vitality given by these island
+churches (as in every healthy branch of the Christian Church) has always
+been a readiness to contribute, not only to the general expenses of the
+mission in their own country, but also to sending forth teachers to the
+isles which are still steeped in heathenism. As it has been most
+convenient to make these payments in kind, each district has collected
+its own offerings, chiefly in the form of measures of cocoa-nut oil; and
+these contributions have been annually conveyed to the home market by
+the mission-ship on her return cruise. Hence the nickname of “Palm-oil
+Ship,” so derisively bestowed by men whose very limited notions of their
+own religious duties certainly do not include any obligation to support
+foreign missions.
+
+Another source of equally uncalled-for fault-finding has been the
+receiving of payment for copies of the Bible and other books, as if the
+mission, having gone to enormous expense in printing successive
+editions, each of several thousand copies (and the publication of works
+in an unknown tongue is at all times a troublesome matter), were to
+blame in offering these for sale, at prices varying from 1s. to 2s. a
+volume—that is to say, little, if at all, in excess of cost price. A
+copy of every book published in the Samoan language is given gratis to
+each student, and to every agent of the mission. How eagerly the
+precious books have been bought up by other natives, is shown by the
+fact of their having voluntarily paid several thousand pounds to acquire
+copies for themselves.
+
+At the present moment the students at the college number eighty—all fine
+young men; of these forty-two are married, and occupy the pretty cosy
+cottages which form this South Sea college. There are also about twenty
+big boys, and a number of small ones, all receiving a most careful
+education. These are gathered from every island in the group, and
+represent many of the principal families, who support the different
+parties now striving for supremacy. But this is neutral ground,
+respected by all parties, so politics are excluded as far as is
+possible.
+
+After luncheon, all these assembled to meet us in the large native
+church—a fine building, of white coral-lime, rounded at the ends like a
+Tongan house, and with a deep thatch roof. I never saw a finer lot of
+men and women, with keen intelligent faces. I fear their verdict on the
+foreign lady must have been very different; for, what with my early
+sketching expedition on foot, and then the long twelve miles in the
+boat, in glaring light from sun and sea, I literally could scarcely keep
+my eyes open; and having foolishly striven to do so, after luncheon
+(when I might have obtained the blessed “forty winks” in private), I
+paid the penalty when we reached the cool dark church, and had the
+humiliating consciousness that the struggle was becoming vainer and more
+vain, till at length the angel of sleep triumphed, and held me captive,
+while M. Pinart put the students through a slight examination, simply as
+a matter of form.
+
+Afterwards we wandered about the settlement, which is in every respect a
+model one, and then we enjoyed a pleasant evening at the calm peaceful
+mission-house, which stands on a grassy headland, palm-fringed, the sea
+washing three sides of the lawn. It is quite an idyllic home,—a true
+earthly paradise, where the useful and loving life glides on day by day,
+undisturbed by the wars and rumours of war on every side. But the peace
+and the home have alike been purchased by many a year of hard ungrudging
+toil in the heat and burden of the day.
+
+For Dr Turner began his mission career in stormy times. Soon after the
+Rev. John Williams had been treacherously murdered at Eromanga in the
+New Hebrides, in November 1839, the London Mission Society determined to
+make a renewed effort for the conversion of its fierce inveterate
+cannibals. Mr and Mrs Turner were accordingly sent on this most
+dangerous mission. They were joined in Samoa by Mr and Mrs Nisbet, and
+together proceeded to the New Hebrides.
+
+The day before Mr Williams’s death, he had succeeded in landing three
+Samoan teachers as pioneers, on the isle of Tanna, twenty miles from
+Eromanga. To this isle the missionaries now sailed—not without grave
+doubts whether they should find the teachers alive. (It was now June
+1842.) They found them safe, but their work had made small progress. The
+people were continually at war, and most unconscionable thieves. They
+had, however, two good points—infanticide was not common, and they were
+careful of their own sick, so far as they knew how. But wilder and more
+savage surroundings could scarcely be conceived than those in which the
+Turners and Nisbets found themselves left, when the little vessel which
+had brought them from Samoa had sailed away.
+
+They soon discovered one serious difference between the New Hebrides and
+the isles of the Eastern Pacific. In the latter, one language is
+understood throughout a whole group, with only such variations as occur
+between Yorkshire and Somerset. But in the New Hebrides, each island
+speaks a totally different dialect, and though within sight one of
+another (as Fortuna, Aneiteum, Tanna, and Eromanga) they cannot
+understand one another; and the books printed for one would be totally
+useless for the next. Even on the same island the different tribes are
+so isolated by war and jealousies that their language remains as totally
+distinct as that of the Celts and Saxons in Scotland or Wales.
+
+This circumstance, added to the intense jealousies of the tribes, made
+it a matter of extreme difficulty, as well as danger, to attempt
+visiting different villages, in which endeavour Mr Turner and Mr Nisbet
+nevertheless persevered, always at the risk of their lives, being
+inspired with an intense belief in the reality of their Lord’s command
+(to go into _all_ the world and preach to _all_ His human creatures),
+and also in His protecting care.
+
+So when a vessel touched the isle, and offered to carry them all away,
+the mission band refused to desert their post, and for seven months
+contrived to maintain their ground. But it was a constant struggle and
+never-ceasing danger. During five months out of the seven the tribes
+were at war, and at last the whole powerful body of sacred
+medicine-men—the rain-makers and thunder-makers, and especially the
+disease-makers—were filled with such jealousy of the foreigners who gave
+away medicines, and so diminished _their_ gains, that they stirred up
+the islanders generally to believe that the dysentery, coughs, and
+influenza which had recently, for the first time, appeared in the group,
+were all produced by the white men; and, strangely enough, their
+assertion seemed confirmed by the fact that the tribe among whom the
+missionaries were living, actually escaped these illnesses.
+
+So about two thousand wild savages united for a more determined
+onslaught on this friendly tribe; and at last, seeing matters were
+desperate, the little band of Christians, nineteen in all, were
+compelled to fly for their lives. They accordingly embarked at dead of
+night in an open boat and a canoe, hoping to reach the Isle Aneiteum,
+preferring to face the certain hardships of such a voyage to the worse
+certainty of being consigned to cannibal ovens. The sea was, however,
+wild and tempestuous; and after vainly struggling for several hours to
+make head against it, they were compelled to return to land, and happily
+re-entered their own house before any of the natives had discovered
+their flight. Matters now seemed desperate; but, as the old proverb
+says, “Man’s extremity is God’s opportunity.” When the villages were
+blazing on every side of them, and their last hours seemed at hand, a
+sail hove in sight. It proved to be The Highlander (name of good omen),
+a whaler, whose captain, knowing that the Turners and Nisbets had gone
+to Tanna, thought he would just run in and see if they were still alive.
+The presence of the foreign ship stayed the fighting for the moment, and
+enabled the mission party very quietly to make their preparations for
+embarking. This was on Saturday. On Sunday, they as usual abstained from
+any manner of work, and held public worship. Soon after midnight they
+silently stole forth, and though their chapel and outhouses, and even
+the boat-shed, were crowded with people from the neighbouring villages,
+whose homes had been burnt by the enemy, not one awoke till almost all
+the party were safely on board with their baggage. So this was
+accomplished without the dreaded opposition. At last some men awoke, and
+then messengers flew through the district to summon the chiefs. Mr
+Turner asked them all to come on board to bid him farewell. Eleven did
+so, and expressed their grief at all that had occurred; one fine old
+chief wept like a child, but none ventured to bid the white men stay. In
+truth, they said that they expected themselves to be exterminated as
+soon as the vessel had departed.
+
+Seeing no possibility of establishing a mission on any of the
+neighbouring isles, Mr Turner induced Captain Lucas to convey the whole
+party to Samoa—a journey which was not without danger, owing to baffling
+winds and the lack of any reliable chart. They narrowly escaped coming
+to grief as they passed through the Fiji group, where the vessel was
+becalmed and quickly surrounded by large war canoes, each manned by from
+fifty to a hundred most formidable, armed savages. Providentially a
+light breeze sprang up and carried them away from that danger; and so in
+due time they reached Apia, where they found welcome and much needed
+rest and comfort.
+
+Soon after, Mr Turner was appointed to the charge of a district in
+Samoa, which gave him the care of sixteen villages; but ere long the
+pressing need of teachers led to the commencement of the training
+college, where, with the exception of occasional voyages to the New
+Hebrides and other groups, he and his successive colleagues have ever
+since found abundant work, in training native evangelists, translating
+valuable books, and, so far as lay in their power (not having received a
+regular medical training), in ministering to the temporal needs of the
+people, administering such medicines as they could procure, and even,
+under pressure of necessity, attending to surgical cases. Their chief
+care, however, was to vaccinate every man, woman, and child within
+reach, a precaution to which may be attributed the happy circumstance
+that there has never been a case of smallpox in Samoa, though it is
+visited by so many foreign ships. In many other groups, where some
+chance vessel has touched, the deadly infection has been left, and in
+some cases about a third of the population has died.
+
+Dr Turner observed that the people of Tanna are in mortal dread of a
+form of witchcraft precisely similar to that so commonly practised in
+Fiji in its heathen days (and perhaps, _sub rosa_, even now; for we
+noticed the extreme care with which some of our followers occasionally
+collected and buried every scrap of food which they, or we, had
+touched).
+
+The Fijians believed that if they could get a fragment of the hair or
+food of an enemy, or a small bit of any garment he had worn, the heathen
+priest could therewith work a spell which should cause death within four
+days. The priest kindled a fire and performed incantations over these
+relics, approaching the spot only on his hands and knees.
+
+The wizard of Tanna is a professional disease-maker. He prowls about,
+continually seeking for refuse of any sort which he can turn to account.
+An old banana-skin, a bit of a cocoa-nut, the parings of a yam, will
+answer his purpose. He wraps it in a leaf, that no one may know exactly
+what he has found. He ties the parcel round his neck, and stalks about
+ostentatiously through the villages. In the evening he scrapes some bark
+off a certain tree, mixes it with the rubbish he has found, rolls it all
+together in a leaf, like a very long cigar, and lays it close to the
+fire, so that one end may gradually smoulder. As it burns, the true
+owner becomes ill; and as the pain increases, he calls to his friends,
+who immediately recognise the work of the disease-maker, and blow loud
+blasts on the trumpet-shell, which can be heard at a distance of two or
+three miles. This is a pledge that if he will stop burning the rubbish,
+they will bring him offerings of their best mats, pigs, &c.
+
+The wizard, hearing the blast, draws away the green cigar, and waits
+impatiently to see what gift his dupes will bring in the morning. They
+firmly believe that if the cigar is allowed to burn to the end, the
+victim must die. Should the pain return, the friends suppose the wizard
+is dissatisfied with his gifts, and they blow louder than before, making
+night hideous with their dismal noise, and load the disease-maker with
+presents, all of which he of course readily accepts. Should the man die,
+the friends merely suppose they failed to propitiate the wretch. These
+wizards were the worst foes of the mission party, and were for ever
+trying to work spells for their destruction, though happily without
+effect.
+
+You can readily understand how a people deeply imbued with the faith in
+this possibility of working mischief, were always ready to attribute to
+the missionaries those epidemics of illness, formerly unknown, which so
+strangely seem to have broken out in almost every group soon after the
+arrival of white men—generally influenza, measles, smallpox, or
+dysentery, each of which has invariably proved a deadly pestilence when
+first attacking these races.
+
+I have just told you how this belief resulted in the mission being
+driven from Tanna. About the same time, dysentery appeared in the
+neighbouring isle of Fotuna, and led to the massacre of the Samoan
+teachers who had been left there by Mr Williams. It also ravaged
+Eromanga, carrying off one-third of the population, who believed that
+the scourge had been introduced by some hatchets which they had received
+as barter from a sandal-wood ship, and accordingly they threw them all
+away. On several other islands the teachers were either murdered or
+compelled to flee for their lives, solely on this account.
+
+What makes this more remarkable is, that these illnesses often followed
+the visit of a ship which itself had a perfectly clean bill of health;
+and in many cases the missionaries and other good authorities recorded
+that they had no reason to believe that any white man had been to blame
+for the introduction of new diseases.
+
+Therefore the poor islanders naturally concluded that these scourges
+were introduced by malicious foreign gods; so when a Samoan family
+assembled for their evening meal, the head of the house, ere tasting his
+bowl of _kava_, poured a little on the ground as a drink-offering to the
+gods; and every voice was hushed while he prayed that the gods of Samoa
+would give increase and prosperity to the household and all pertaining
+to it; that the war-gods would give strength to the people; but to such
+foreign gods as might have arrived in Tongan canoes or great ships, he
+said—“Here is _kava_ for you, O sailing gods; do not come ashore at this
+place, but be pleased to remain on the ocean, and go to some other
+land!”
+
+Sometimes the worshippers preferred to leave this matter in the care of
+their own protecting gods. In that case they kindled a blazing fire just
+before the evening meal, and offered its light to the king of gods, and
+all his fellow-deities, beseeching them to keep away from Samoa all
+sailing gods, lest they should come and cause disease and death.
+
+Dr Turner takes high rank among the apostles of the Pacific. Few men
+living know better, from their own experience, how marvellous has been
+the change wrought in the last forty years, by which barbarous cannibals
+have been transformed into peaceful Christians.
+
+For instance, when he first visited the Isle of Niuē, or Savage Island
+(which lies as the centre of a triangle formed by Tonga, Samoa, and the
+Hervey Isles), its people were in much the same condition as Captain
+Cook found them, when they rushed on his men “like savage boars,” which
+was their invariable reception of all outsiders—not of white men only
+(though these were invariably repulsed), but also of men whose canoes
+chanced to drift from Tonga or Samoa, or even of their own countrymen
+who had left the island and returned. All such were invariably killed,
+chiefly from a dread lest they should introduce foreign diseases. So
+great was this fear, that even when they did venture to begin trading,
+they would not use anything obtained from ships till it had been hung in
+quarantine in the bush for weeks.
+
+For sixty years after Captain Cook’s visit, these 4000 very exclusive
+savages adhered to their determination that no stranger should ever live
+on their isle. At the end of that time they agreed to allow Samoan
+teachers to settle among them; and so successful has been the work of
+these men, that the island is now peopled with model Christians. No more
+wars, no fightings, no thefts, but a peaceful and happy community
+(sufficiently) “clothed and in their right mind;” living in good houses
+of the Samoan type, instead of filthy huts; assembling for school and
+worship in large suitable buildings, and with abundant leisure to
+cultivate the soil and prepare the arrowroot and other produce, with
+which to purchase not only calico, hatchets, knives, &c., but also
+copies of the Scriptures, hymns, and commentaries, translated into the
+Savage Island dialect by the Samoan teachers, and printed at Apia.
+
+Like the Tongans, these very sensible savages have discovered a means of
+making criminals really useful to the community. For theft and all other
+offences, the chief sentences the offender to make so many fathoms of
+road of neatly laid blocks of coral, filled in with small stones, and
+covered with a level layer of earth. Thus a good road, shaded by a
+double row of cocoa-palms, now encircles the isle—a circuit of perhaps
+fifty miles.
+
+Do you think that Captain Cook would now recognise his “wild boars”?
+
+In like manner, when Dr Turner first visited the Loyalty Isles, of which
+New Caledonia is the principal isle, he found hideous cannibals, without
+a rag of clothing, but whitewashed from head to foot to improve their
+beauty. This was the height of fashion on Maré. On his return in 1859,
+he found that perhaps one side of an island had adopted Christianity,
+and that clean, decently clad congregations of men and women assembled
+on the shore to meet him, eager that he should hear them read the
+Scriptures from books printed in their own dialect,—a strange contrast
+to the other side of the same isle, still plunged in heathen
+degradation, engaged in ceaseless war, feasting on the bodies of the
+slain, and occasionally capturing a Christian teacher, whose zeal led
+him to adventure within their reach.
+
+Much the same state of things prevailed on some of the New Hebrides,
+where the isle of Aneiteum was the most hopeful centre of operations,
+its population of upwards of 3000 persons having all professedly become
+Christians, and 300 being actually church members. Fifty-six different
+villages had built schools for their own use, and eleven had chapels.
+Sixty of the more advanced natives ranked as teachers, and several had
+gone to work on the hostile isles around. On these, also, two white
+missionaries had established themselves, though still enduring a hard
+struggle, and making very little way apparently.
+
+More recent incidents have proved how slow and difficult has been their
+work.
+
+On the voyage I speak of, the converts presented Dr Turner with upwards
+of a hundred of their discarded idols—storm-gods and rain-gods, gods of
+war and of sickness, gods of the land and of the sea, of the fruits of
+the earth and of all living things,—a strange motley collection of poor
+dishonoured images, each of which had been an object of awe through many
+a dark year, now all huddled together in the hold of the foreign ship.
+
+Amongst the simpler idols of Samoa were a number of smooth water-worn
+stones, more or less egg-shaped—precisely similar to those still
+reverenced in Indian temples, and which were so long held in honour in
+the British Isles.[21] One of these was the Samoan rain-god, who was
+instructed in his duties by a priest, and in times of drought was
+carried to the stream and therein bathed. But should rain fall in
+excess, the poor god was popped into the fire, to make him personally
+aware that the land needed a drying.
+
+On the same principle the rain-making priests in New Caledonia do or did
+dig up a dead body, and, having carried the bones to a cave, there
+fastened them together to form a complete skeleton, which they hung up,
+and poured water over it, supposing that the spirit of the dead would
+take the hint and cause the clouds to pour rain on the thirsty land.
+These priests were so far true to their pretensions that they remained
+in the cave fasting till rain did fall, and some actually died at their
+post. When fine weather was required, they kindled a fire beneath the
+skeleton and let it burn.
+
+Similar as were these rain-making customs, there does not appear to have
+been any link between the Samoans and these Loyalty Islanders, the
+latter being about as debased a race of cannibals as could well be
+imagined,—men who, not content with eating the bodies of foes slain in
+battle, tied up their captives to trees, and prepared the ovens for
+their reception before their very eyes. The women followed their lords
+to battle, to be in readiness to seize the falling foe and carry his
+body to the rear and prepare it for the feast. They themselves were
+liable to be eaten if captured; and the youngest children of the tribe
+shared the horrid meal. On ordinary occasions the Loyalty Islanders had
+only one meal a day. The luxury of _kava_ was unknown to them, but they
+indulged in copious draughts of sea-water. They wore no apology for
+clothes. A chief might marry thirty wives, no matter how closely related
+to him by ties of blood. The Samoans, on the contrary, rigorously
+prohibited the marriage of any persons nearly related, declaring that
+such unions called down the wrath of the gods. The gods of the New
+Caledonians were the ancestral spirits, and their treasured relics were
+the finger and toe nails of their friends. In burying the dead the head
+was left above ground; and on the tenth day it was twisted off by the
+mourning relatives, who preserved the skull, extracting the teeth as
+separate treasures. The teeth of old women, scattered over a yam
+plantation, were supposed to secure a good crop; and for the same reason
+the skulls of all the old village crones were stuck on poles near the
+gardens.
+
+I wonder if all these distinctions between the manners and customs of
+the various groups, convey to your untravelled mind one-thousandth part
+of the interest they possess to us, who have actually lived among so
+many different races. I fear it is impossible that they should. But you
+can well understand the thankfulness of such men as Dr Turner and his
+colleagues, in watching the gradual change from year to year, as the
+Gospel of mercy takes root in such unpromising soil; and they themselves
+find loving welcome from the very men who in past years thirsted for
+their blood, and shed that of so many fellow-workers.
+
+Fain would we have lingered at peaceful Malua, and listened to stories
+of the South Seas from the lips of those who have themselves been actors
+in so many thrilling scenes, extending from the far west to this centre.
+But it was necessary to return to Apia this morning, so we regretfully
+bade farewell to these kind new friends, who loaded us with gifts of
+strange things, brought from many isles, and sped us on our way.
+
+Here we found all quiet. The Seignelay has had a long day of
+entertaining. First the Sisters went on board, with their sixty
+children, who were duly impressed with the wonders of the great ship;
+afterwards all the young men from the Catholic College had their turn.
+
+M. de Gironde has just been here, to tell me the vessel sails for Tahiti
+on Monday. He brings the kindest letters and messages from the captain
+and all the party, expressive of their true wish that I should proceed
+with them on the “Tour de la Mission.” Indeed the state of affairs here
+is not such as to invite a prolonged stay. And there might be a
+detention of months among these discordant elements, ere I found an
+opportunity to return to Fiji.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IX.
+  A SKETCH OF THE SAMOAN MISSION—THE REV. JOHN WILLIAMS DETERMINES TO
+       VISIT THE NAVIGATOR’S ISLES—PRELIMINARY WORK IN THE HERVEY
+GROUP—DISCOVERY OF RAROTONGA—CONVERSION OF ITS PEOPLE—THEY HELP WILLIAMS
+ TO BUILD A SHIP WHICH SHALL CONVEY HIM TO SAMOA—VISIT TONGA—PROCEED TO
+ SAMOA—OVERTHROW OF IDOLATRY—REVERENCE FOR OLD MATS—WILLIAMS’S GRAVE AT
+                                 APIA.
+
+
+When I first landed in Fiji in 1875, nothing amazed me so much as the
+wonderful work which has there been done by the Wesleyan Mission—a work
+of which the outside world literally knew nothing. Now that my
+wanderings have led me further east, I see that different regiments of
+the great Christian army have each been doing their part in forwarding
+their Master’s cause; and so strangely interesting are many details of
+their work, which I have now heard for the first time, that I think I
+cannot do better than note them down, feeling quite convinced that you
+will find them as new and as full of interest as I myself have done.
+
+The extraordinary success of the South Sea missions is certainly to be
+attributed in a great measure to that triumph of common-sense which made
+the various societies agree, almost at the outset, in a great measure to
+divide the field of labour, and so endeavour to avoid distracting the
+minds of the simple islanders, by allowing them to perceive that their
+teachers could possibly disagree among themselves.
+
+In the North Pacific some good working power has doubtless been lost by
+the establishment in the Sandwich Isles of both an English Episcopal
+Mission and American Congregationalists. The Dowager Queen Emma is a
+stanch adherent of the English Church, as was also her husband, who
+himself translated the prayer-book into the Hawaiian language. But the
+majority of the people there (as throughout Polynesia) find the less
+ceremonious forms of religious observance better adapted to their needs.
+
+So the American Board of Foreign Missions, which commenced its work in
+1820, met with such success, that within half a century the whole group
+had been evangelised, and a self-supporting native Church, with native
+pastors, established. It is now extending its operations among the
+islands in the north-western part of the Pacific, between the equator
+and Japan. These are collectively described as Micronesia, on account of
+their extremely small size, the majority being simply low atolls, few of
+which rise more than ten feet above the level of the ocean.
+
+The south-western isles of the Pacific, which come under the general
+name of Melanesia, are chiefly in the hands of the English Church
+Societies, and of the Presbyterian Mission.
+
+The countless large groups which occupy the south-east of the ocean, and
+are generally described as Polynesia, have been almost entirely
+Christianised by the London and Wesleyan Missions.
+
+Shortly after Captain Cook’s discoveries had first drawn attention to
+the existence of these unexplored regions, the London Mission, which
+includes men of all the evangelical sects, began its work by sending men
+to the Marquesas, the Society Isles (Tahiti and Raiatea), and to Tonga.
+
+Of the sad fate which befell the first Tongan missionaries, I have
+already spoken. Three were murdered, and the rest compelled to fly for
+their lives. Some years later, the Wesleyan Mission ventured to reoccupy
+the field, when they found the people somewhat penitent. They were able
+to establish themselves under the protection of some friendly chiefs,
+and ere long had the satisfaction of knowing that Christianity was
+striking firm deep roots in the soil which at first seemed so
+unpromising.
+
+Truly marvellous has been the growth of the tree thus watered by the
+blood of those brave pioneers. Eighty years have elapsed since their
+martyrdom, at which time there was not one isle in the whole Pacific
+which was not steeped in debasing heathenism and cruel wars. Now,
+throughout Polynesia, idolatry is a thing of the past; none of the
+present generation have even seen the wood and stone gods of their
+fathers: infanticide and murder are probably less common than in Europe,
+and a reverent obedience to all Christian precepts a good deal more
+apparent than in civilised countries. On upwards of 300 isles (where in
+the early half of this century no boat could have touched without
+imminent danger), Christianity of a really practical sort now reigns.
+Upwards of a quarter of a million persons show their faith in its
+requirements by utterly changed lives, and at least 60,000 of these are
+regular communicants. The casual traveller, who, a few years ago, would
+almost inevitably have been killed had he ventured to land, is now
+chiefly in danger of asserting that the natives have been trained to be
+religious overmuch,—their “innocent nature” cramped; and so the chances
+are, that without intending to do mischief, he throws his influence of
+the moment into the opposite scale, and is perhaps the source of more
+evil than he dreams of.
+
+Having not only succeeded in transforming the savage Tongans into
+earnest Christians, but also into most zealous and capable teachers, the
+Wesleyan missionaries next made their way to Fiji, where their success
+was still more wonderful, and a race of most cruel cannibals has become
+one of the gentlest on earth.[22]
+
+About the same time the Samoan Isles, which were then an almost unknown
+group, were sought out by the Rev. John Williams of the London Mission,
+one of the boldest and most successful of the early pioneers. He began
+his work at Raiatea, in the year 1817, with such success, that when, in
+1821, an opportunity presented itself of visiting the Hervey Isles (of
+which nothing was known, except that such a group existed), several
+converts from Raiatea volunteered to go there as pioneers. They were
+accordingly landed on the isle of Aitutaki,[23] the very name of which
+might have suggested encouragement. There they were favourably received
+by Tamatoa, the chief, and his people. Nevertheless, as it was well
+known that these were all cannibals, and constantly at war one with
+another, it was not without deep anxiety that Mr Williams left the
+teachers to begin the mission. When, however, in the following year, he
+returned to the group, in company with Mr Bourne, they were received
+with the glad tidings that the people of Aitutaki had all, without
+exception, abjured idolatry, burnt their _marais_, and begun to worship
+the Saviour; that they had built a large church, and rigidly hallowed
+the Sabbath. On the following day nearly 2000 of these now tamed savages
+assembled on the shore, and all knelt together in solemn prayer to the
+Christian’s God; after which they brought thirty of their discarded
+idols, and carried them on board the mission-ship, that the men of other
+isles, beholding them, might know that they were no gods, but only
+worthless images, and so might be led to discard their own.
+
+This was a satisfactory beginning for one year’s work; and a great
+promise for the future lay in the fact that among the converts were six
+natives from the then unknown isle of Rarotonga, who earnestly prayed
+that teachers might be sent to their brethren, and that they themselves
+might be allowed to accompany them. The men of Aitutaki declared the
+Rarotongans to be most ferocious cannibals, and horribly treacherous,
+and were sorely alarmed for the safety of any teachers who should
+venture among them. Nevertheless it was agreed that the opportunity was
+one not to be lost. Accordingly the mission-ship sailed in search of
+Rarotonga. For eight days they sought in vain, but failed to discover
+it.
+
+At last they found themselves off an isle which proved to be Mangaia.
+There three brave Tahitian teachers, two of whom were accompanied by
+their wives, volunteered to land and endeavour to establish a footing
+among the people. These, however, proved such unmitigated savages that
+the attempt was frustrated. Though the chiefs had invited the teachers
+to land, their doing so was the signal for brutal ill-treatment of both
+men and women. All their little property was at once stolen, and they
+only escaped with their lives by swimming back to the ship through the
+surf.
+
+A few months later another attempt was made to commence a mission in the
+Hervey Isles. Once more the mission-ship returned to Mangaia, and two
+unmarried teachers, Davida and Tiere, leaped into the sea and swam to
+the shore, taking nothing with them but the cloth they wore, and a
+portion of the New Testament in Tahitian, which was carefully wrapped up
+and tied on their heads. Crowds had assembled on the shore, and one
+warrior rushed at them with a long spear, but the lunge was arrested by
+the king himself, who received them kindly, and at once led them to his
+own seaside temple, in order that the people might consider their
+persons sacred. This they were inclined to do; for soon after their
+cruel treatment of the first teachers, a terrible epidemic had broken
+out in the isle, which had carried off young and old, chiefs and
+peasants. Supposing this to be a punishment sent by the God of those
+strangers, they collected all the property they had stolen from them,
+the calico dresses torn off the women, and the strips into which they
+had torn the Bibles to make ornaments for their hair at the midnight
+dances in honour of the god Tane. All these things they threw into a
+chasm in the mountains into which they were in the habit of casting
+their dead, and made solemn vows to the unknown God that if His servants
+returned to their isle they should be well cared for. So now they
+prepared a feast for the two bold swimmers, and allowed them to settle
+among them in peace.
+
+Meanwhile Mr Williams had continued the search for Rarotonga, and had
+touched at the isles of Atiu, Mauke, and Mitiaro. The story of that
+voyage is more thrilling than any romance. It was as if a flash of
+electric light had suddenly illumined the thick darkness. What that
+darkness was you may infer from the fact that only four years previously
+all these islands had been decimated by war and cannibalism. The fierce
+people of Mitiaro had slain and eaten several canoe-loads of the men of
+Atiu, whose kinsfolk, determined to avenge them, came over in force, and
+by treachery gained access to the stronghold of the men of Mitiaro. A
+fearful massacre ensued, and to this day the oven is shown into which
+men and women and helpless infants were thrown alive to be cooked; the
+only mercy shown was when the brains of the children were dashed on the
+stones, and so they were killed ere being cast into the oven. When the
+conquerors had eaten their fill, they packed basketfuls of the savoury
+meat to regale their wives and families at Atiu; but ere they left the
+blood-stained isle they practised one more barbarity common to heathen
+warfare. In dragging the great double canoes over the sharp coral, it is
+usual to lay down soft banana stumps to act as rollers, and so protect
+the canoes from injury. The rollers now used were living naked men and
+women, tied together hand and foot, and over their writhing bodies were
+the heavy canoes drawn in triumph.
+
+The same terrible fate had overtaken the neighbouring isle of Mauke,
+when the arrival of the mission-ship brought to these isles the blessed
+Gospel of peace. The first man to step on board at Atiu was the terrible
+chief, Romatane, who had led the expeditions against Mitiaro and Mauke:
+he was a man of strikingly commanding aspect, with beautiful long black
+hair. He was eagerly welcomed by the chief of Aitutaki, who had already
+destroyed his idols and accepted the new faith; and so earnestly did
+this zealous convert plead all through the long night with his brother
+chief, that, ere the morrow dawned, the truth of his words seemed borne
+in upon the mind of Romatane, and he vowed that never again would he
+worship any God save Jehovah. He returned ashore to announce this
+decision to his people, and his intention of immediately destroying his
+idols and their temples. Then returning on board, he agreed to direct
+the course of the vessel to the then unknown isles of Mitiaro and Mauke,
+which hitherto he had visited only with fire and sword. Now it was his
+voice that proclaimed the truths he had just learned, and that exhorted
+the people to destroy all their idols and build a house for the worship
+of the true God. At each isle he himself escorted the Tahitian teachers
+and their wives to the house of the principal chief, and charged him to
+care for them and hearken to their instructions.
+
+Thus in one short day was this mighty revolution wrought in three isles,
+which had never before even seen a foreign ship. Romatane and his
+brother Mana proved themselves true to their first convictions; and
+among their stanch fellow-workers was one who, to this day, tells how,
+at the massacre of his kinsfolk on Mauke, when he was carried away
+captive, he was laid on the baskets containing the baked flesh of his
+uncles and fellow-countrymen, and narrowly escaped being himself
+consigned to the oven.
+
+The mission work progressed without a drawback. The people, almost
+without demur, determined to destroy the idols they had so long revered.
+Many were rescued as museum curiosities, and the mission-ship sailed
+onward with those grotesque monsters hanging from her yard-arms, and
+otherwise displayed as trophies, leaving in their stead earnest
+converts, from Raiatea and Tahiti, to instruct these willing hearers.
+
+When they had almost given up in despair their search for Rarotonga, one
+of the new converts told them that if they would sail to a given point
+on the isle of Atiu, he could thence take bearings which would enable
+him to find it. So for this starting-point they made; and, true to his
+word, the islesman directed them how to steer, and after several days
+they reached the beautiful isle they sought. Here they were received in
+the most friendly manner; and the young king, Makea (an exceedingly
+handsome man, six feet high, and beautifully tattooed), came on board
+himself, and agreed to take the native teachers ashore, with their wives
+and the six Christian natives who had been brought back to their own
+isle. This promising beginning was, however, not without a check; for in
+the early dawn the teachers returned to the ship, bringing back their
+wives with garments all tattered and torn, telling of the grievous
+treatment they had endured. The chiefs were exceedingly anxious that the
+teachers should remain on the isle to teach them the Word of God, but
+wished to annex their wives.
+
+It was therefore decided that, for the present, only one fine old
+teacher should be left, with the six Rarotongans who had first suggested
+the commencement of the mission, on their unknown isle. So well did
+their work progress, that within a year the whole population had
+renounced idolatry. Makea, the king, was among the earliest converts;
+and when, in 1827, Mr Williams and Mr Pitman arrived with their wives
+and families to settle in Rarotonga, they were received by an
+enthusiastic crowd of about 3000 persons, each of whom insisted on
+shaking hands so heartily, that their arms ached severely for several
+hours after. All these were professedly Christians; and the new-comers
+learnt that there was not a house on the isle in which the family did
+not assemble morning and evening for family worship. A few days after
+their arrival, they perceived a great body of people approaching bearing
+heavy burdens. These proved to be fourteen immense idols, the smallest
+of which was about fifteen feet high. Some of these were reserved to
+decorate the rafters of the new chapel, built by the people themselves,
+to contain 3000 persons; the rest were destroyed.
+
+While this marvellous change was being wrought on the other isles, the
+brave young teachers who had swum ashore on Mangaia were steadily making
+their way. Within two years one died, leaving Davida to labour alone. He
+had, however, by this time made some progress; and on one glad day the
+king and chiefs determined to abandon the idol shrine, where, every
+evening, offerings of food were presented to the thirteen known gods,
+and to the great host of the unknown. So, to the great joy of Davida,
+the thirteen idols were carried to his house by their late worshippers,
+and there stripped of the sacred white cloth in which priests and gods
+were always clothed. They are now preserved in the museum of the London
+mission, and very much resemble the wooden idols of the ancient Britons
+to be seen in our antiquarian museums.[24]
+
+Thus, in an incredibly short space of time, was the whole system of
+idolatry, with its bloody human sacrifices, overthrown in the Hervey
+Isles; and how marvellous was the change wrought in every respect, has
+been described by Lord Byron, Commander of H.M.S. Blonde, when he
+accidentally found himself in the group,—and, recognising it as one of
+those discovered by Captain Cook, approached land with extreme caution,
+but was welcomed by noble-looking men, dressed in cotton shirts and very
+fine mats, who produced written documents from the London Mission
+Society, qualifying them to act as teachers, and then took him ashore to
+a neat village with a good school and a crowded church.
+
+From that time forward, the Hervey Islanders have not only been true to
+their own profession, but have proved zealous missionaries in carrying
+the Gospel to other isles. Their theological college has already sent
+forth about 150 trained men as teachers. About 50 of these are at the
+present moment scattered among various remote isles of the Pacific, some
+of which are still cannibal. Six of the most zealous and determined men
+have gone, accompanied by their brave missionary wives, to face the
+unknown perils that await them in New Guinea—where, doubtless, their
+work will bear good fruit, and prove the first step in opening up that
+vast island to the commerce of the civilised world.[25]
+
+The very first missionary effort of the Hervey Islanders was directed by
+Mr Williams towards Samoa. Even before he left Raiatea, he had resolved
+to visit the Navigator group, to endeavour, there also, to plant some
+seed of good, which might perchance take root. Now that the work had so
+prospered in the Hervey Isles, he ventured to broach the subject to his
+wife, who, naturally enough, at first objected to being left alone with
+her children for many months among a race of utter savages, while her
+husband went off on a very long and dangerous voyage of about 200 miles,
+to face perhaps still greater dangers when he reached his destination.
+After a while, however, this brave woman made up her mind that it was
+right he should go; and much to his astonishment, several months after
+the subject had been dismissed, she volunteered her consent.
+
+Then came the primary difficulty of transit. They possessed no vessel
+which could possibly make such a journey—only native canoes. Nothing
+daunted, Mr Williams determined to try his hand at shipbuilding, though
+it was a trade of which he knew little, and he had scarcely any tools.
+His first great difficulty lay in making a pair of smith’s bellows.
+Though he possessed only four goats, three were sacrificed for the sake
+of their skins. The fourth, which was giving a little milk, was spared.
+Scarcely were the bellows finished, when the rats, sole indigenous
+animals, assembled in scores, and in one night devoured every particle
+of leather. Having none in reserve, invention was sorely taxed, till at
+last Mr Williams devised a machine which should throw out air as a pump
+throws water.
+
+This was but one of the countless difficulties to be overcome. To obtain
+planks, trees were split with wedges, and then cut up with small
+hatchets. For lack of nails the planks were riveted together with wooden
+pins. Sails were made of quilted mats and ropes of hybiscus bark.
+Cocoa-nut husk supplied the place of oakum. A clumsy stone anchor was
+contrived, and also a wooden one. In short, determination triumphed over
+every difficulty; and in fifteen weeks, without any help save what the
+Rarotongans could give by obeying his directions, Mr Williams had the
+satisfaction of launching a seaworthy vessel of about 80 tons burden, 60
+feet in length, and 18 in breadth. To test her sailing powers, she was
+to make a preliminary trip to Aitutaki, distant about 170 miles. Before
+they had gone six miles, the natives let slip the foresail, which,
+straining in the wind, broke the foremast, and with some difficulty they
+returned to land. Having repaired the damage, they started again,
+reached Aitutaki, and returned thence to Rarotonga with a cargo of pigs,
+cats, and cocoa-nuts. The two first, but especially the pigs, were
+invaluable in ridding the island of rats; but a cargo of cocoa-nuts
+suggests coals to Newcastle, till we learn that in native warfare the
+cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees were invariably destroyed, so that the
+fruitful isles were utterly ravaged.
+
+The Messenger of Peace being now proven seaworthy, sailed for Tahiti,
+whence she was despatched to the Marquesas, and on several other mission
+expeditions, ere starting on that for which she had been designed. It
+was not till the year 1830, that Mr Williams, taking Mr Barff as his
+colleague, and seven Tahitian teachers with their wives and children,
+actually sailed in search of the almost unknown Navigator’s Isles. They
+touched at the Hervey Isles on their way, and these likewise contributed
+several teachers, eager to carry to Samoa the Word of Peace, which had
+so recently gladdened themselves.
+
+Passing on thence to Tonga they received warm welcome from King George,
+who had long been a zealous Christian, and whose energetic nature had
+thrown itself heart and soul into the work of converting his people.
+Never did finer material exist. The Tongans have ever been noted for
+their strong, self-reliant, earnest character; and the same
+determination which in old days made them dreaded as the most daring
+pirates of the South Seas, was now called into play in quite a new
+manner, and the pushing ambitious men who were ever coming to the front
+in deeds of aggression, were henceforth the champions of the Christian
+faith and its most zealous pioneers.
+
+At Tonga Mr Williams was the guest of Messrs Nathaniel Turner and Cross.
+The name of the latter is familiar to us, as having shared, with the
+Rev. David Cargill, the danger and honour of founding the Wesleyan
+Mission in Fiji. From them they heard with joy that Taufaahau, the chief
+of the Happai group,—a man of indomitable courage and determination,—had
+recently visited King George at Tongatabu, in order to judge for himself
+of the new religion. He then returned to his own dominions accompanied
+by Tongan native teachers, and proceeded to destroy all the idols and
+altars, exhorting the chiefs to follow his example. Many were naturally
+indignant at this proceeding, and determined to celebrate a great
+festival in honour of the gods. Turtle and other sacred fish had to be
+caught for the offerings; so the highhanded chief, Taufaahau, profited
+by the delay to desecrate the temple by driving a herd of pigs into the
+sacred enclosure, and converting the temple itself into a sleeping-room
+for his women-servants—the presence of a woman being considered
+pollution to a _marae_.
+
+So utterly obnoxious to the gods was the female sex, that it was certain
+death for any woman to set foot in a temple—and when victims were about
+to be seized for sacrifice, the greatest care was taken to prevent the
+approach of any female relation, lest she should touch the corpse, and
+so render it unfit to be offered at the _marae_. When the worshippers
+arrived with their offerings of turtle, they found the poor gods all
+disrobed, hanging by the neck from the rafters; and knowing the stern
+resolution of their chief, they retired, discomfited. Having given this
+proof of his sincerity, Taufaahau next sent his best canoe to Tonga, to
+bring Mr Thomas, the missionary whose teaching had so impressed him; and
+who, in answer to this summons, started with his wife to make the
+journey of 200 miles in this open canoe, in order to follow up the work
+thus begun on Happai.
+
+At Vavau, the third group, the work seemed to have little prospect of
+success, so virulent was the opposition of Finau the high chief, who
+threatened death to any of his people who listened to the teachers. Yet
+within two years he was himself a zealous convert, and upwards of 2000
+of his followers were in the habit of assembling for the Sunday
+services.
+
+The teachers of the Tonga _lotu_—_i.e._, the Wesleyans—continued
+steadily working, and their influence spread as a leaven of good from
+isle to isle. At Tonga the Samoan party received an unlooked-for
+reinforcement in the person of Fauea, a Samoan chief, who had for some
+time been living in Tonga, and had there become a Christian. He
+requested Mr Williams to give him a passage in his ship, and proved an
+invaluable helper, directing him to steer for Savaii, the principal
+isle, of which he himself proved to be a high chief, and related to
+Malietoa, the greatest chief of all.
+
+Fauea was a man of sound judgment and of most persuasive eloquence. But
+he was greatly troubled lest they should meet with violent opposition
+from Tamafainga, whom the people obeyed with trembling, believing that
+in him dwelt the spirit of the gods. It was therefore with unmixed
+relief that he heard, on his arrival, that this dreaded opponent had
+been killed a few days previously, and that there had not yet been time
+for the chiefs of all the isles to meet and elect his successor in the
+office of spiritual ruler.
+
+So the Messenger of Peace was found to have arrived in the very nick of
+time, and all the people received Fauea and his _papalangi_[26] friends
+with open arms. Malietoa, indeed, declared that he was engaged in a war
+of vengeance, in which he could not stay his hand, but that it should be
+the last; and that when peace was restored he would himself _lotu_—that
+is, become a Christian—and encourage all his people to do likewise. He
+and his brother Tamalelangi, or “Son of the Sky,” each promised to
+protect the native teachers and their wives, and gave them a hearty
+welcome as they landed; nevertheless, the old order passed away in
+flames and bloodshed, all to avenge the murder of the rapacious tyrant,
+who had actually been worshipped as a god, till the people could no
+longer endure his outrages and oppressions, and so waylaid and slew him.
+
+Even at the moment when the teachers were landing on the island of
+Savaii, the mountains of Upolu, on the other side of the straits, were
+enveloped in flames and smoke, which told that a battle had been fought
+that very morning, and that not only were the plantations being
+destroyed, but that the women, children, and infirm people were all
+being murdered, and their bodies burnt in their villages. This
+sanguinary war continued for several months, and the country was so
+desolated that for miles together not a house was left standing; and
+even the villages which escaped were full of the sound of wailing and
+mourning for the dead, in whose honour the living lacerated their own
+flesh with broken shells and sharks’ teeth. When, finally, one party
+triumphed, they made huge bonfires, into which they threw many of the
+vanquished. Though the Samoans were never guilty of cannibalism, still
+there was enough of barbarous cruelty in their warfare to make a
+residence among them a very anxious experiment. Having done what they
+could to smooth the way for the teachers, Mr Williams and his colleague
+were obliged to leave them, in devout trust that their work might
+prosper.
+
+Twenty months elapsed ere they were again able to return to Samoa, and
+marvellous, far beyond their highest hopes, was the change they found.
+On their first visit they had only touched at Savaii and Upolu, the most
+westerly of the Navigator group. Now the first land they sighted was
+Manua, the most easterly, about 250 miles distant from that on which the
+teachers were established. To their astonishment a number of canoes came
+out to meet them, and as they neared the vessel several natives stood up
+and declared themselves to be Christians, and that they were waiting for
+a _falu lotu_—a religion-ship—to bring them a teacher who could tell
+them about Jesus Christ. Great was their disappointment when they heard
+that Mr Williams had only been able to secure one teacher, whom he had
+promised to leave on another isle.
+
+These people had received such knowledge as they possessed from a canoe
+which had drifted all the way from Rairavae, an island upwards of 300
+miles to the south of Tahiti, and fully 2000 miles from that where it at
+length arrived, after a three months’ voyage, in the course of which
+twenty of the party died of the hardships they underwent. But the
+survivors had carefully preserved their copy of the Tahitian translation
+of the Scriptures; and on reaching the unknown isle they built a
+reed-hut for their chapel, and there met daily for worship. Thus, among
+the strange and precious treasures which from time to time are cast up
+by the ocean on far-away isles, did the people of Manua receive the Word
+of Life.
+
+Among those who had heard it gladly was a fine young fellow, a native of
+Leone, in the Isle Tutuila, to which he begged to be conveyed in the
+foreign ship, that he might teach his brethren what he had learnt.
+Thither they sailed, touching at the Isles Orosenga and Ofu, where as
+yet no rumour of the new teaching had been heard.
+
+As they approached Tutuila, they were surrounded by a vast number of
+canoes filled with excessively wild-looking men, clamouring for powder
+and muskets, as they were on the eve of a great war with a neighbouring
+chief. No sign there of any leaven of good—in fact, the presence among
+them of a resident Englishman of the “beach-combing” fraternity, was
+anything but a hopeful indication. The amount of mischief done by even
+the average specimens of this class has been incalculable; but many have
+been miscreants of the deepest dye, whose crimes have aroused the horror
+of even the vilest heathen. Many of them were desperadoes—convicts
+escaped from New South Wales in stolen vessels, which they scuttled on
+reaching any desirable isle, where they generally contrived to make
+themselves useful in war, and so secure the protection of some chief.
+One of these men, who made his way to Samoa, was said to have shot 200
+persons with his musket, smearing himself with charcoal and oil to
+enable him to creep within range undetected. His delight at the end of
+such a day’s sport was to seat himself on a sort of litter, smeared with
+blood, surrounded by the heads of his victims, and so be carried home by
+his followers, yelling savage songs of triumph. Such men as these were
+not exactly calculated to improve the morals of the Pacific!
+
+Passing on to beautiful Leone, which bore an evil character for savage
+cruelty and treachery, and the massacre of various boats’ crews, the
+mission party beheld the people drawn up on the beach, in what appeared
+a formidable array. They, however, lowered the boat and neared the
+shore, when the chief, bidding his people sit down, waded up to his neck
+till he reached the strangers, and explained that he and his followers
+were no longer savage, but “sons of the word;” and went on to tell how,
+twenty moons previously, some of his people had been at Savaii when the
+white chief Williams had arrived there with some _tama-fai-lotu_,
+“workers of religion,” and having learnt a little, they had returned
+home with the news, and already fifty of the people had become
+Christians. Pointing to a group who sat somewhat apart, under the shade
+of the bread-fruit trees, and who each wore a strip of white native
+cloth tied round one arm, he said that those were the Christians, who
+had adopted that badge to distinguish them from the heathen; that they
+had built a place for prayer, in a thicket of bananas; and that one of
+their number from time to time crossed over to Savaii in his little
+canoe, to “get some more religion” from the teachers[27] to bring back
+to his own people.
+
+On learning that the man he was addressing was the identical “white
+chief” who had visited Savaii, he made a sign to his people, who rushed
+into the sea, and carried the boat and all who were in it high and dry
+on the beach in their enthusiastic welcome; but when they learnt that
+the religion-ship had brought no teacher for them, their disappointment
+was unbounded; and so, we may well believe, was that of the zealous
+apostle who had discovered these isles “white to the harvest,” but had
+failed to find reapers.
+
+So eager was the desire to know about the better way, that there were
+many places in the isles where the people, having only heard a dim
+rumour of what others had learnt, had actually built places for the
+worship of the unknown God, and, having prepared their food on the
+Saturday, assembled there at six o’clock each Sabbath morning, and again
+twice in the day, not for service, because none knew what to say, but to
+sit together in reverent silence, waiting for some revelation of His
+will. It seemed a strangely literal illustration of the words of the
+Hebrew prophet, “The isles shall wait for His law.”
+
+Passing on to the beautiful little isle of Manono, and the great isles
+of Savaii and Upolu, the missionaries were received with extravagant joy
+by teachers and people; and by the high chiefs with more nose-rubbing
+than was agreeable! They heard with delight that all the principal
+chiefs and many of the people had already declared themselves
+Christians, and had proved themselves in earnest by truly consistent
+conduct; and that the majority of the people had resolved to follow
+their good example. Upwards of a thousand sat breathlessly to hear the
+white man’s words, spoken in Tahitian, and interpreted by one of the
+teachers. Then Makea, the king of Rarotonga, a man of magnificent
+stature, who had accompanied Mr Williams, addressed the people, and
+explained how wonderful had been the change wrought in his own isles
+since they embraced the _lotu_;[28] how, in old days, they had been for
+ever fighting and murdering one another, till at length they had
+hearkened to the voice of the teachers, and, in fear and trembling, had
+brought their idols to be burnt, and had watched from afar while those
+daring men had cooked their bananas on the embers.
+
+Here, in Samoa, there were very few idols, and no blood-stained
+_maraes_, altars, or temples; human sacrifice, or indeed any sort of
+sacrifice, was not required; hence the expression, “Godless as a
+Samoan,” by which the men of other groups described any one who
+neglected the service of the temples. The Samoans, however, were
+diligent in the worship of their own ancestors, and, moreover, supposed
+that the spirit of their gods animated divers birds, fishes, or
+reptiles. As certain Indian tribes have adopted different animals as
+their _totem-god_, so in Samoa and the Hervey Isles, each chief had his
+_etu_—_i.e._, some living creature, which to him and to his people was
+sacred; and foreigners, ignorant of this matter, sometimes incurred
+serious danger from accidentally killing some revered reptile, or even
+insect. The man who found a dead body of his representative deity, say
+an owl, a heron, or a bat, would stop and wail piteously, beating his
+own forehead with stones till it bled; then wrapping up the poor dead
+creature with all reverence, he would solemnly bury it, with as much
+care as if it had been a near relation. This was supposed to be pleasing
+to the gods. When, therefore, any Samoan resolved to declare himself a
+Christian, he commenced by killing and eating the familiar spirit of his
+tribe, whether grasshopper, centipede, octopus, vampire-bat, snake, eel,
+lizard, parrot, or other creature.[29]
+
+There was one chief who reverenced as his _etu_ the fractured, but
+carefully mended, skull of a white man, whose firearms had won his
+admiration, though the man’s crimes had led to his being clubbed. An
+amusing story is told of the terror with which these simple folk first
+beheld a talking cockatoo in the cabin of a vessel. With a cry of dismay
+they rushed on deck and leapt overboard, declaring that the captain had
+his _etu_ in the cabin, and that they had heard it talking to him.
+
+The story of the conversion of these much tattooed but little clothed
+warriors abounds in picturesque detail. Thus, when the great chief
+Malietoa promised Mr Williams that he would become a Christian so soon
+as he had fully avenged the death of Tamafainga, “in whom was the spirit
+of the evil gods,” before himself going forth to battle, he sent one of
+his sons to help the teachers to build their chapel. On his return, when
+the chapel was to be opened, he called his sons together and announced
+his intention of fulfilling his promise to the white chief. With one
+accord they replied that what was good for their father was good for
+them, and that they too would _lotu_. This, however, he forbade,
+declaring that if they obstinately insisted on so doing, he would
+continue in the faith of his ancestors. “Do you not know,” he said,
+“that the gods will be enraged with me and seek to destroy me? and
+perhaps Jehovah may not be strong enough to protect me against them! I
+purpose, therefore, to try the experiment. If He can protect me, you may
+safely follow my example; but if not, then I only shall perish.”
+
+The young men were reluctant to obey, and asked how long they must allow
+for this test. Malietoa suggested a month or six weeks; and intense was
+the interest with which all his people waited and watched, lest sickness
+or other evil should befall him. But when, at the end of three weeks,
+all went on prosperously, it was felt that the supremacy of the
+Christian’s God was established, and the sons of Malietoa would wait no
+longer. So, calling together a great company of friends and kinsmen,
+they proceeded solemnly to cook a large quantity of _anae_, a silvery
+fish, which was the _etu_ of their tribe. These being laid on freshly
+gathered leaves, were placed before each person, and the teachers
+solemnly offered a prayer, ere, with fear and trembling, these young
+converts nerved themselves to swallow a few morsels of the sacred fish,
+hitherto held in such reverence. So intense, however, was the hold of
+the old superstition, that the young men, unable to conquer their fear
+lest the _etu_ should gnaw their vitals and destroy them, immediately
+retired to swallow a large dose of cocoa-nut oil and salt water, which,
+acting as a powerful emetic, greatly tended to counteract any malignant
+influence of the offended gods.
+
+Soon after this, a great meeting of chiefs was convened to consult on
+the fate of Papo, the venerable god of war. This renowned relic was
+nothing but a strip of rotten old matting, about three yards long and
+four inches wide, which was always attached to the war-canoe of the
+highest chief when he went forth to battle. Now an impious voice
+suggested that this venerated rag should be thrown in the fire, but a
+burst of disapprobation silenced this cruel suggestion. However, all
+agreed that Papo must be exterminated; so as drowning was a less
+horrible death than burning, they resolved to launch a new canoe, in
+which a number of high chiefs should row out to sea, and, having
+fastened Papo to a heavy stone, should commit him to the deep. They had
+actually started on this errand, with great ceremony, when the teachers
+hurried after them in another canoe, to beg that the old war-god might
+be presented to Mr Williams. The chiefs were immensely relieved by the
+suggestion; and the venerable strip of matting is now to be seen in the
+museum of the London Mission.
+
+I cannot solve the mystery of this Samoan reverence for certain ancient
+mats; but I well remember our astonishment, when the Samoan chiefs came
+to Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon on the question of British
+protection, to see with what infinite solemnity these fine stately men
+presented him with a very dirty and exceedingly unfragrant and tattered
+old mat, which, I believe, was to be offered to her Majesty Queenie
+Vikatoria, but has, I think, found an asylum in the British Museum. What
+makes this so very strange is, that the mats worn by the Samoan chiefs
+and ladies are beautifully fine and glossy, of most delicate
+straw-colour, and edged with handsome grass-fringe.
+
+Whatever may have been the origin of this form of antiquarian lunacy,
+its existence is an unmistakable reality. The Samoan chief treasures
+the dirty and ragged old mat of some revered ancestor as a British
+regiment does the tattered colours which find their honoured rest in
+some grey sanctuary. The old mat, which from generation to generation
+has been jealously guarded by his clan, is his patent of nobility, and
+the title-deed which proves his right to broad acres. Some of these
+strips of dirty old matting, which no rag-man would pick off a
+dust-heap, are known throughout the group by special names. There is
+one, which is known to be upwards of 200 years old, during which
+period its successive guardians have all been duly enrolled. It is
+called _Moe-e-fui-fui_—_i.e._, the mat which slept beneath the
+vines—in allusion to its having lain hidden for several years among
+the lilac ipomeas which twine in matted tangles all along the
+sea-beach. No money would induce a Samoan to sell one of these
+unsavoury treasures: it is said that £100 might be offered in vain,
+though I certainly cannot imagine any sane person offering 100 pence.
+
+However, it is simply a form of relic-worship,—and probably no whit more
+foolish than the adoration of dirty clothes and kindred objects,
+supposed to have been hallowed by the touch of Christian or Buddhist
+saints. Indeed I am far more inclined to sympathise with the heathen
+Tahitian, who wore as an amulet the toe-nail of the father whom he had
+loved, than I can do with the multitudinous Christians who sanctify
+their altars by the presence of some splinter of saintly bone.
+
+Amongst the many touching incidents of these early days, was that of one
+large village in which, contrary to the general course, all the women
+became Christians before any of the men did so. Mr Williams had reached
+a town called Amoa, the people of which had all accepted the _lotu_,
+when a party of seventy women approached in single file, each bearing a
+gift. At their head walked a tall handsome woman, with a mat, dyed red,
+folded about her loins, and the upper part of her body freely anointed
+with sweet-oil, tinged with turmeric. On her neck and arms she wore a
+necklace and bracelets of large blue beads; but her hair, alas! was all
+cut off, except one little lock falling over the left cheek. Her
+companions were equally picturesque,—the unmarried women being
+distinguished by their wearing a white mat, and no oil and turmeric, and
+by their retaining a profusion of graceful curls on one side of their
+head, while the other was shaven and shorn. The poorest girls wore only
+fringes of large leaves and wreaths of flowers.
+
+It appeared that the leader was a chiefess of high rank, who, some time
+previously, had come to Amoa, and there remained for a month, diligently
+attending to the instructions of the teachers. Then, returning to her
+own district, she had collected all the women, and told them all she had
+learnt, and so interested them in the subject, that a large number had
+agreed to renounce heathen worship. They built a leaf-hut for their
+church; and here the teacher from Amoa occasionally came to conduct
+service. At other times the chiefess herself did so, making frequent
+pilgrimages through the week to learn new lessons from the teacher, and
+returning to impart this wisdom to her companions.
+
+Thus, within the short space of twenty moons, was Mr Williams allowed to
+see the beginning of an abundant harvest, where he had but scattered the
+seed; and a true grief saddened his heart when compelled to refuse the
+entreaties of chiefs and people that he would fetch his family and come
+to live and die among them, to teach them how to love Jesus Christ. But
+when he reminded them that there were eight isles in the group, and that
+he must return to England to fetch other teachers, they bade him
+Godspeed,—only praying that he would hasten back, because assuredly many
+of them would be dead ere his return.
+
+This true apostle went on his way, carrying the light to many a region
+of darkness, till, in the year 1839, he reached the ill-fated shores of
+Eromanga, in the New Hebrides, which was the scene of his martyrdom.
+With his loved friend, James Harris, he had succeeded in obtaining a
+friendly reception on the neighbouring isle of Tanna, and there left
+three Samoan teachers to begin work among its hideous savages. Twenty
+miles further lies Eromanga, whose people are the most hopeless
+cannibals of the Pacific. As the brave men landed on the inhospitable
+isle, a host of armed savages rushed out from the bushes in which they
+were concealed. In an instant both were clubbed, and the bodies of the
+grand apostle of the South Seas and his young disciple became food for
+the miserable cannibals whom they longed to reclaim. It was the usual
+tale of revenge. These Eromangans had, shortly before, been cruelly
+ill-treated by a party of sandal-wood traders, who wantonly killed
+several natives on their attempting to defend their women, and to save
+their plantations from indiscriminate plunder. Naturally enough, these
+poor savages, seeing another foreign boat land at the same spot as their
+enemies had done, failed to discriminate friend from foe.
+
+It is impossible to overstate the amount of hindrance to mission work
+and to all civilising influences which has been occasioned by the
+lawless proceedings of unprincipled white men, too many of whom have
+proved themselves truly white barbarians. In their greedy craving for
+gain, they have so thoroughly quenched every spark of justice and honour
+in their dealings with the dark-skinned races, that on some of the
+Papuan Isles, the name by which the natives describe a white man means
+literally “a sailing profligate.”
+
+The vessels employed in the labour trade—_i.e._, in “engaging” or
+_securing_ men to work on plantations in Fiji or Australia—were by no
+means the only culprits, though the horrible cruelties practised by many
+of these in former years have been a disgrace to humanity. Nearly as
+much harm was done by men engaged in the sandal-wood trade, who gloried
+in defrauding the natives by every means in their power—promising
+certain articles in exchange for a given amount of sandal-wood, and on
+its receipt sailing away, to be no more heard of. Or perhaps they
+inveigled a chief on board, and there kept him as a hostage till his
+people brought large quantities of sandal-wood as his ransom; and having
+secured all they could get at that particular isle, they still refused
+to give up the chief—probably secured some of his followers, and carried
+them to another isle, where they forced them to work for months in
+cutting the coveted wood, and finally sold them to the natives, in
+exchange for yams and pigs—a man fetching from five to ten live pigs,
+according to his size. It is almost needless to say that the hostile
+natives merely purchased the strangers as food for the cannibal oven.
+Occasionally some of these unfortunates contrived to escape, and got on
+board whaling-ships, where they were kindly treated, and some were even
+taken back to their own isles. There were ships which fired
+unscrupulously on any village which failed to bring them sandal-wood. On
+one occasion three vessels engaged in this trade anchored off one of the
+New Hebrides. Their men plundered the yam-gardens and stole all the
+pigs, numbering several hundreds. Of course the owners resisted, and
+were ruthlessly shot. Finally, many took refuge in a cave, when the
+white barbarians proceeded to pull down the houses and heap up the dry
+thatch and rafters at the mouth of the cave as fuel for a great bonfire.
+Of course all the inmates were suffocated. Such deeds as these, of
+course, led to reprisals; and Dr Turner says that, to his own knowledge,
+upwards of 320 men engaged in the sandal-wood traffic perished between
+the years 1839 and 1848. Such facts as these should be borne in mind, as
+affording the clue to many an unprovoked outrage by brown men on white.
+The tradition of past wrongs lingers long in savage races.
+
+Within a year of John Williams’s murder, the Rev. George Turner and Rev.
+H. Nisbet attempted to commence work in the same field, but found it
+impossible. Even while they were struggling to maintain their position
+on the isle of Tanna, a whaling-ship touched there for water, and her
+men immediately fell to quarrelling with the natives, whereupon the
+vessel weighed anchor and sailed along the coast, firing promiscuously
+into all the villages she passed. There would not have been much cause
+for wonder if the savages (who had seen Mr Turner directing these men
+where to find water) had at once turned on him and his companions and
+murdered them all. As it was, they continued to brave the perils of
+their position for some months ere they were compelled to fly.
+
+When Mr Turner revisited Eromanga in 1859, the Rev. —— Gordon, who was
+then settled there, told them that a few months previously another
+sandal-wood trader had got into serious trouble, and three of his men
+had been killed by the natives; but he himself acknowledged that they
+had earned their fate. On that occasion the Eromangans had the
+discrimination to spare the righteous; but not long afterwards Mr Gordon
+and his wife were cruelly murdered.
+
+Eleven years passed, when a message reached the Rev. J. D. Gordon
+(brother of the above) praying him to come and heal some sick children
+at Eromanga. As a medical missionary he at once complied, only to hear
+on his arrival that the children were dead; and their father could find
+no solace for his blind, ungrateful grief, but to slay the medicine-man
+who had arrived too late. One blow from his tomahawk added yet another
+to the grievous list of the martyrs of Eromanga.
+
+At the mission station at Apia, on the isle of Upolu, on the very spot
+where John Williams first landed in Samoa, and where he stood to bid
+what proved to be his last farewell to the people—two graves lying side
+by side contain some bones brought to Samoa in 1840 by H.M.S. Favourite,
+in the belief that they were those of the martyrs. It is now, however,
+known that they were bones taken at random by the natives from a cave
+where they are wont to deposit their own dead, under the impression that
+the foreign ship wished to purchase human bones. The skull of John
+Williams is buried beneath a palm-tree on Eromanga, which is doubtless
+as quiet a resting-place as a foreign grave in turbulent Apia. Near it,
+was buried a small bit of red sealing-wax, about an inch and a half in
+length, which was found by the natives in his pocket, and supposed to be
+a foreign idol. This relic was afterwards disinterred and sent home to
+his children.
+
+I think the attempt to recover the remains of the dead from their savage
+murderers is at best very unsatisfactory. We had a fair example of it in
+Fiji, where great efforts were made to recover the bones of the Rev. ——
+Baker, who was there killed and eaten. So successful was this endeavour
+that one mission station alone has received three skulls, all positively
+declared to be his!
+
+While both the London Mission and the Wesleyans have done such excellent
+work in Samoa, it is to be regretted that a corner of rivalry should
+have contrived to creep in—a rootlet of bitterness—not very serious
+perhaps, but still a corner of contention. It appears that at the time
+when Mr Williams first landed in Samoa, in 1830, several native teachers
+from the Wesleyan Mission in Tonga had already begun to work there, and
+the promise of white teachers had already been made to expectant
+congregations. When, therefore, in 1835, the Rev. Peter Turner, of the
+Wesleyan Mission, reached the isle of Manono, he was received with open
+arms by a zealous flock; and when, shortly afterwards, he travelled
+round the isles of Savaii and Upolu, he found more than 2000 persons who
+were members of the Tonga _lotu_, and 40 persons who were acting as
+teachers.
+
+At that time the Tahiti _lotu_—_i.e._, the London Mission—was only
+represented by five or six Tahitian teachers, who were located at
+certain towns, and confined their labours to their immediate
+neighbourhood. On Mr Turner’s arrival he commenced diligently seeking
+the people in all parts of the isles, with such marked result that
+within twenty months upwards of 13,000 persons had joined the Tonga
+_lotu_.
+
+The Wesleyans specially note that Mr Turner was the first resident white
+missionary in Samoa. Some months after his arrival came a trading ship,
+which brought Mr Pratt, as representative of the London Mission; and in
+1836, six missionaries of the London Society arrived and held a public
+meeting in the Tahitian chapel at Manono, when it was clearly proved
+that a considerable number of Samoans had adopted the Tonga _lotu_
+before the arrival of Mr Williams, though they only met for worship
+quietly in their own homes. The Tahitian teachers were the first who
+began to conduct public services, but their adherents were found to be
+numerically fewer than those of the Tongans.
+
+Stress is laid on these details, because it was alleged by the London
+Mission that Messrs N. Turner and Cross had agreed with Mr Williams to
+devote their efforts to the Fijian group, and leave the Navigator’s
+Isles to the London Mission. Messrs Turner and Cross, on the other hand,
+entirely repudiate any such compact, and state that the first they heard
+of it was when the London missionaries arrived in Samoa, where their
+agent was already established, in accordance with their promise to the
+friendly chiefs.
+
+As neither party were inclined to yield, both missions continued to work
+simultaneously, each acknowledging the good work done by the other, yet
+regretting the division, which might so easily have been avoided.
+However, it has been a sacrifice of uniformity rather than of unity; and
+I suppose the Church militant must always be made up of divers
+regiments.
+
+I believe the London Mission has at present seven congregational
+ministers in Samoa, and seventy-five native teachers. Their nominal
+adherents number about 30,000. The Australasian Wesleyan Mission has two
+white missionaries and one native minister. These superintend the work
+of 50 teachers and 85 local preachers. There are 47 chapels, with 1200
+church members, and congregations numbering altogether about 5000.
+
+The Roman Catholics number about 4000.
+
+As has been the case throughout Polynesia, many of the new converts have
+become earnest missionaries; and not only have several Samoan teachers
+found their way to Fiji, but when in its turn the infant Church in that
+group determined to commence a mission among the savage races of New
+Britain, two Samoan teachers volunteered to accompany their Fijian
+brethren on this noble but dangerous enterprise. Others have gone to
+settle in the very uninviting Gilbert and Kingsmill groups, close to the
+equator, amongst hideous tribes of the lowest type, whose barren isles
+fail to yield any manner of crop; so that for lack of better diet, the
+unpalatable fruit of the pandanus, which in Samoa is only used for
+stringing into necklaces, is accounted an important item of food. For
+love of these poor souls these self-denying men give up their own most
+lovely homes, and bid a lifelong farewell to parents and kindred. Many a
+bitter scene has been enacted on these shores, when aged relatives,
+clinging to these dear ones with all the demonstrative love of the warm
+southern temperament, follow the mission-boat as it pushes off, and wade
+up to the shoulders, weeping and wailing for those who may never come
+back to them, and knowing full well how many have already fallen in the
+hard-fought battle. Certainly these Samoan teachers have given good
+proof of their zeal and willingness to endure hardship, as good soldiers
+of the Cross.
+
+
+                     NOTE ON ETU OR TOTEM WORSHIP.
+
+  We are so much in the habit of considering this strange worship of
+  representative animals, in connection with the simple superstitions of
+  such utterly uncivilised races as these poor savages of the Pacific
+  Isles, or the Indian tribes of America, that it is startling to
+  recollect how large a place it held in the intricate mythology of so
+  wise and learned a people as the ancient Egyptians, who not only
+  excelled in all arts of peace and war, but seem to have mastered many
+  of those mysteries of science which still perplex the learned men of
+  the nineteenth century. Long ere the Greeks and Israelites had learnt
+  their earliest lessons from the sages from Egypt, and while Rome was
+  but a village of mud-huts, the banks of the Nile were graced with
+  buildings, which, in their stately beauty, rivalled the marvels of
+  Babel. Prominent among these was the temple of the sacred bull Mnevis.
+  The patron god of Memphis was the golden bull Apis, to whom pure white
+  bulls were sacrificed; while in his honour jet-black bulls were
+  worshipped during life, and after death were embalmed, and preserved
+  in sarcophagi of polished black basalt. Only their bones were
+  preserved, swathed in linen, and tied up so as to resemble an animal
+  lying down. A full-grown bull thus prepared was no bigger than a calf,
+  while a calf was the size of a dog. Thirty-three of these sacred
+  bull-mummies were found in the catacombs, each in its own sarcophagus.
+
+  Other catacombs were entirely devoted to the mummies of sacred dogs
+  and cats, beetles and mice, hawks and ibis, each neatly strapped up in
+  linen and sealed up in a red earthenware jar. These are found packed
+  like the contents of some vast wine-cellar—tier behind tier, and in
+  layers reaching to the roof of the catacombs, some of which are large
+  caves, with endless ramifications; yet chamber after chamber of these
+  vast storehouses are all alike closely packed with this vast multitude
+  of mummy-jars, accumulated by countless generations of reverent
+  worshippers.
+
+  Strangest of all these sepulchres of sacred creatures, are the
+  crocodile mummy-pits, in which are stored a vast assemblage of
+  crocodiles of all sizes, from the patriarch measuring twelve or
+  fourteen feet in length, to the poor baby only five inches long, each
+  wrapped up in palm-leaves. Thousands of these little demigods, about
+  eighteen inches long, are tied together in bundles of eight or ten,
+  and swathed in coarse cloth. True believers in the crocodile-headed
+  god Savak, kept these creatures tame in a great crocodile city near
+  the artificial lake Mœris, where they were fed with cake and roast
+  meat, washed down by draughts of mulled wine; their fore-feet were
+  adorned with golden bracelets, and their ears were pierced and
+  enriched with precious gems. But the worshippers had to fight the
+  battles of their gods against various irreverent neighbours, notably
+  against the people of Elephantine, who, so far from worshipping the
+  crocodile, considered it a dainty dish, to be eaten as often as it
+  could be captured.
+
+  So well known to their contemporaries was this Egyptian reverence for
+  certain birds, beasts, and insects, that on at least one occasion it
+  proved a valuable aid to their foes, as when Cambyses captured a city,
+  by forming a vanguard of all manner of animals—cats and dogs, bulls
+  and goats—assured that one or other must be held sacred by the
+  besieged; and so it proved, for the latter dared not throw a dart lest
+  they should injure their “bleating gods.”
+
+  Each of these had their especial sacred city, where their precious
+  remains were embalmed and their mummies stored. Dogs and ichneumons
+  might indeed be buried in their own cities, but hawks and shrew-mice
+  were generally conveyed to Buto, and ibises to Hermopolis. Onuphis was
+  the city specially dedicated to the worship of the asp; but all manner
+  of serpents were worshipped in gorgeous temples over the length and
+  breadth of the land, and the reptiles were fed with flour and honey by
+  their appointed priests, and their bodies eventually embalmed with all
+  possible reverence. Cat-mummies were stored in the sacred city of
+  Bubastis; goats at Mendes; wolves were preserved in pits near Sioux;
+  while the ram, sacred to the sun, was worshipped at Thebes, the sun
+  city.
+
+  The death of a cat was considered so dire a misfortune, that if a
+  house were to take fire the Egyptians would let it burn to the ground,
+  if only they could rescue the cats, which, however, had an awkward
+  trick of jumping into the flames. Should one of these perish, all the
+  inmates of the house shaved their eyebrows. Should a dog die, the head
+  and beard were also shaved. Each species of animal had its appointed
+  guardians to feed and tend them, the office being hereditary. A heavy
+  fine attended any accident which befell these precious creatures; and
+  should one perish through carelessness, the life of the keeper was
+  forfeit, more especially if the victim were an ibis or a hawk, for
+  whose death there was no forgiveness.
+
+  The hawk, whose piercing eye can so fearlessly gaze upon the sun, was
+  the special type of that great source of light. It was worshipped in
+  Heliopolis and the other sun temples, where living birds were kept in
+  cages, and pictures of sacred hawks, seated amidst lotus-plants,
+  adorned the walls. With such reverence were they treated, that when
+  the Egyptian hosts went forth to battle, they carried their hawks with
+  their armies; and should some chance to die in foreign lands, their
+  bodies were embalmed, and brought to Egypt to be buried in consecrated
+  tombs. Thus numerous hawk-mummies have been discovered at Thebes and
+  elsewhere.
+
+  Hence it would appear that each of these creatures was the _totem_, or
+  representative animal of some tribe, which bestowed thereon all due
+  veneration in life and in death. Probably the _totem_ of one tribe
+  would receive no honour from the next. Hence the battles already
+  alluded to between the cities which worshipped crocodiles and those
+  which ate them! and the still more deadly civil wars that raged
+  between the worshippers of the Oxyrinchus fish and the dog-worshippers
+  of Cynopolis, when the latter were guilty of fishing in the Nile, and
+  not only capturing the holy fish, but also eating them.
+
+  No salmon commissioners could be more wrathful at the wilful
+  destruction of salmon-fry than were these fish-adoring Egyptians when
+  tidings of the crime reached their city. Swift vengeance followed; for
+  the deified dogs, worshipped by the gluttonous offenders, were caught
+  and sacrificed to appease the wrath of the fish-gods, their flesh
+  affording a delicious feast for the priests. This of course led to a
+  prolonged civil war, and the sacking of towns and bloodshed were only
+  checked by the arrival of the Roman legions, who punished both
+  parties, and reduced them to order. Such wars continued from time to
+  time, even so late as the fourth century after Christ, by which time,
+  however, various cities (notably that of Oxyrinchus) had adopted the
+  new faith, and the cells set apart for sacred animals were tenanted by
+  the monks.
+
+  If we follow out this subject, it may perhaps bring us nearer home
+  than we imagine; for just as the Australian blacks are divided into
+  clans bearing the name of the animal, or even the plant, from which
+  they believe themselves to be descended, and which they must on no
+  account eat or gather—and are thus known as “The Black Snakes,” “The
+  Swans,” “The Turtles,” “The Kangaroos,” &c.,—so our antiquarians tell
+  us, that many of our tattooed or painted Anglo-Saxon ancestors bore
+  the names of animals or plants, which doubtless were in truth the
+  _totem_ of their family. Thus the Bercings and Thornings traced their
+  descent from the birch and thorn, and the Bockings from the beech; and
+  the homes of these families still bear such names as Bocking,
+  Birchington, and Thornington. Elmington and Oakington are supposed to
+  have been peopled by sons of the elm and of the oak; while Ashendon
+  recalls the Ashings or Æscings, who bore the name of the sacred
+  ash-tree; and the Fearnings of Farningham were supposed to descend
+  from a humble fern.
+
+  Buckingham and Berrington are said to have derived their names from
+  the Buccings and Berings, sons of the buck and of the bear; while the
+  followers of the wolf did him honour by bestowing on their children
+  such names as Wulfing, Eadwulf, Beowulf, or Ethelwulf. The sacred
+  white horse (whose image remains to this day on the downs of Westbury
+  and Wantage, as clearly defined as when first our Saxon ancestors
+  scraped the green grass from off the chalk hillside) was the symbol
+  reverenced by all Aryan races, and Hengest and Horsa, the leaders of
+  the early English, bore names which entitled them to command their
+  fellows. They have left their mark in such territorial names as
+  Hengestesdun, Horstead, Horsington, and many more. The Otterings of
+  Otterington owed allegiance to the otter.
+
+  The snake was as much revered in Britain as in all other corners of
+  the world, and no disrespect was implied in describing him as a worm.
+  Hence the family of Wyrmings, and such geographical traces as
+  Wormington, Wormingford, and even Ormskirk and Great Orm’s (or Worm’s)
+  Head. The Earnings were adherents of the earn or eagle; the Everings
+  or Eoferings of _Eofer_, the wild boar, whose home was at Eversley.
+  Raveningham and Cockington are said to bear the name of the old lords
+  of the soil, the sons of the raven and of the cock; while the Fincings
+  of Finchingfield and the Thryscings of Thrushington, are said to
+  represent the families who adopted the Thrush and the Finch as their
+  _totem_.
+
+  Altogether there appears good reason to infer that the reverence for
+  birds and beasts, fishes and reptiles, which excites our compassionate
+  wonder in reading of poor untutored savages, such as these Samoans,
+  was once a powerful influence in our own British Isles.[30]
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER X.
+LEAVE SAMOA—REACH TAHITI—GREY SHADOWS—DEATH OF QUEEN POMARE—LA LOIRE AND
+HER PASSENGERS—A GENERAL DISPERSION—LIFE ASHORE AT PAPEETE—ADMIRAL SERRE
+     AND THE ROYAL FAMILY—FAMILIES OF SALMON AND BRANDER—ADOPTION.
+
+
+                                           H.B.M. CONSULATE, APIA,
+                                       _Sunday Evening, 30th September_.
+
+It is finally settled that I am really going on to Tahiti. From what I
+have told you, you can fully understand that Samoa would not be an
+inviting place in which to lie stranded for an unlimited period; and
+though I, individually, have received the greatest possible kindness
+from many of the foreign residents, and from the Samoan chiefs of both
+parties, still the whole atmosphere is tainted with lies and the
+strivings of self-interest, and is altogether unwholesome. So I have
+definitely accepted the invitation so repeatedly and heartily given, and
+to-morrow I am to return on board the Seignelay.
+
+I have just received letters from some, and messages from all on board,
+expressing cordial pleasure at my decision, especially from M. de
+Gironde, whose cabin I occupy; so I really feel that I shall be a
+welcome guest.
+
+The great difficulty will lie beyond Tahiti, but I must e’en trust to my
+luck.
+
+It is also decided that the bishop is to proceed at once to France, both
+on Church business and for medical advice. It is a good thing that he is
+so soon to leave this place, where he is terribly worried by the attempt
+to reconcile so many conflicting interests. He looks much worse than
+when we arrived.[31]
+
+This morning he officiated at High Mass; and all the men and officers of
+the Seignelay attended in full uniform. The service was choral, and of
+course the church was crowded. I passed it on my way to a very small
+Congregational chapel, where Dr Turner conducted an English service. We
+met numbers of people on their way to the Protestant native churches;
+and I was amused to observe how many carried their Bibles neatly folded
+up in a piece of white _tappa_; just as an old wife in Scotland would
+wrap hers in a white handkerchief!
+
+In the afternoon my hostess accompanied me to the convent, where the
+children sang prettily while we sat in the pleasant garden. The sisters
+bade me good-bye quite sadly. “It has been _des adieux_ all day,” said
+one.
+
+                                              ON BOARD LE SEIGNELAY,
+                                                  _Monday, 1st October_.
+
+M. de Gironde came at daybreak to escort me on board. All the Puletoa
+chiefs crowded round to say good-bye—and I ran down the garden for a
+last word with their “orator,” a fine young fellow, who was nursing his
+new-born baby in the large native house. His wife is such a nice pretty
+young woman. I felt quite sorry to leave them all, not knowing what may
+be the next tidings of woe. We know that war may be renewed at any
+moment.[32]
+
+                                           _Saturday, 6th October 1877._
+                                               (_Tossing a good deal._)
+
+With a dreary waste of grey waters on every side of us, and no trace of
+land save two inquisitive boobies, which have for some hours been flying
+round us, it is hard to realise that to-morrow we are to enter the
+far-famed harbour of Papeete, and that by this time to-morrow evening we
+shall be ashore, listening to the _himènes_ of the multitude assembled
+for the great feast which begins the next day—a great feast, by the
+way—held in honour of the anniversary of the Protectorate! I wonder how
+poor old Queen Pomare likes it!
+
+We left Samoa on Monday, 1st October, and the next day was also called
+Monday, October 1st, to square the almanacs, so that we can say we had
+done the 1700 miles in just a week. The weather has been considerably
+against us, but extra steam was put on to insure catching this mail, as
+great stress is evidently laid on not losing a day in reporting the
+proceedings at Samoa to the Home Government. The amount of reports
+written since we started has been something prodigious!...
+
+What with all this writing going on, and the extra motion of the vessel
+from travelling at such unwonted speed, life has not been so tranquilly
+pleasant as in the previous weeks. I have had quite to give up my cosy
+studios on the big gun-carriage, or my quiet corner of the bridge.
+Instead of these, I have found a place of refuge and a hearty welcome in
+_le carré_ (the gun-room), which does not dance so actively as the
+captain’s cabin, over the screw. In it at this moment a select set are
+either reading or writing their home letters, ready for the ’Frisco[33]
+mail, which is supposed to sail from Tahiti on Monday morning....
+
+(At this point, a wave breaking over the ship, trickled down on my head
+through the skylight. Hence the smudge. I wonder how you would write
+with the table alternately knocking your nose and then rolling you over
+to the opposite side of the cabin!)
+
+Every creature on board is rejoicing at the prospect of returning to the
+Tahitian Elysium. To me this has been a dream ever since my nursery
+days, when the big illustrated volumes of old voyages that lay in my
+father’s dressing-room were the joy of many a happy hour, combined with
+such sticks of barley-sugar as I can never find at any confectioner’s
+nowadays! There we first read the romantic story of how Captain Cook
+discovered those isles of beauty, and named them after the “Royal
+Society” which had sent him to explore these unknown seas. The Tahiti of
+to-day is doubtless a very different place from the Otaheite of 1774.
+
+Of course, in a highly organised French colony much of the old romance
+must have passed away with its dangers. But the natural loveliness of
+the isle cannot have changed, and I look forward with great delight to
+seeing it all.
+
+Every one speaks in the highest terms of Mr Miller, our long-established
+English consul, and his charming Peruvian wife (so Lord Pembroke
+describes her). Both are intimate friends of Captain Aube and the
+bishop, who will commit me to their care on arriving. I have also an
+excellent introduction to Mr Green, the head of the London Mission; and
+M. Vernier, of the French Protestant Mission, was once for some months
+at Inveraray. I hear golden opinions both of Mrs Green and Mme. Vernier,
+and of M. and Mme. Viennot, of the same mission. So amongst them all, I
+have no doubt that I shall be all right.
+
+But I cannot quite forget what a hideous future lies beyond. The total
+distance I have travelled in this large comfortable steamer, from Fiji
+to Tahiti, including trips from isle to isle, has been 2985 miles. From
+Tahiti (after this good ship has sped on her way to Valparaiso) there
+remain two courses before me—either to go to New Zealand, 3000 miles, or
+to Honolulu, 3200 miles,—in either case in a small sailing vessel,
+starting at some uncertain period. There is a monthly mail to San
+Francisco, but that is only a schooner of about 120 tons; and _viâ_ San
+Francisco would be rather a circuitous route to Sydney! where I expect
+to meet Lady Gordon somewhere about Christmas. It is a hideous prospect,
+but I have too much faith in my luck to be deeply concerned about it.
+The worst of it all is, that I cannot possibly receive any letters till
+I arrive in Sydney, which may, I fear, be some time hence.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  OPUNOHU BAY. ISLE MOOREA.
+]
+
+As my wardrobe will by that time be considerably the worse for wear, you
+will do well to send out a box of sundry garments to await my arrival,
+otherwise I shall be reduced to appearing in a graceful drapery of
+_tappa_, with fringes of crimson dracæna leaves; but though the dress of
+Oceania is very becoming to the young and beautiful, the world of Sydney
+is hardly up to it,—and besides, I fear it would be scarcely suitable
+for old grand-aunts (_presque grand’mère_), as one of my French friends
+put it yesterday! It certainly is rather a shame to let you have all
+this trouble, while I have the fun of exploring such strange lands; but
+it is a sort of division of labour, whereby you pay your tax to the
+family locomotive demon, who drives all the rest of us so hard, but
+leaves you in peace in Britain, to do your share of wandering by deputy.
+
+Now, as it is getting late, I must turn in, as I want to be up at grey
+dawn to see beautiful Moorea (the Eimeo of our childhood), and we shall
+sail close past it, as we make Papeete harbour. So good-night.
+
+                                          IN HARBOUR, PAPEETE, TAHITI,
+                                              _Sunday Morning, 7th Oct_.
+
+Well, we have reached Tahiti, but really I am beginning to fear that,
+like most things to which we have long looked forward, this is likely to
+prove disappointing. We came in this morning in a howling storm, _un
+gros coup de vent_, and everything looked dismal. Though we coasted all
+along Moorea, the envious clouds capped the whole isle, only showing a
+peak here and there. Certainly such glimpses as we did catch were
+weirdly grand; huge basaltic pinnacles of most fantastic shape towering
+from out the sea of billowy white clouds, which drifted along those
+black crags. And below the cloud canopy lay deep ravines, smothered in
+densest foliage, extending right down to the grey dismal sea, which
+broke in thunder on the reef. With strong wind and tide against us as we
+crossed from Moorea to Tahiti, you can fancy what a relief it was when,
+passing by a narrow opening through the barrier-reef, we left the great
+tossing waves outside, and found ourselves in this calm harbour, which
+to-day is sullen and grey as a mountain-tarn. At first we could see
+literally nothing of the land; but it is now a little clearer, and
+through the murky mist we see a fine massive mountain rising above a
+great gorge beyond the town. But in general effect of beauty this is
+certainly not equal to Ovalau, and even the town looks little better
+than Levuka,[34] though it is certainly more poetic, the houses being
+all smothered in foliage. But then it is fine-weather foliage—all
+hybiscus and bread-fruit,—the former, of that very blue-green tint,
+which in rain looks as grey as an olive-grove; while each glossy leaf of
+the bread-fruit is a mirror, which exactly reflects the condition of the
+weather—glancing bright in sunlight, but to-day only repeating the dull
+hue of the leaden clouds.
+
+For indeed it is a dreary grey day, sea and sky alike dull and
+colourless, all in keeping with the sad news with which the pilot
+greeted us as he came on board—namely, that Queen Pomare died a
+fortnight ago (on the 17th September); so we have just missed seeing the
+good old queen of my infantile romantic visions. Her eldest son, Prince
+Ariiaue, has been proclaimed king under the hereditary name, and is
+henceforth to be known as Pomare V.
+
+But the people are all in deepest dule, and instead of the great
+rejoicings and balls, and _himènes_, and varied delights of the _fête
+Napoléon_ (or rather its republican substitute, the anniversary of the
+Protectorate), on the 9th October, for which we had expected to find
+joyous crowds assembled—always ready for an excuse for music and
+dancing—a festival to which my friends have been looking forward all the
+voyage,—instead of this, we see the crowds pouring out of the native
+church, all dressed in the deepest mourning, from their crape-trimmed
+black hats, to their black flowing robes, which are worn from the
+throat, and with sleeves down to the wrist; they trail on the ground in
+sweeping trains, and are so long in front that even the bare feet are
+covered.
+
+There are no flowers, no fragrant wreaths, no arrowroot crowns, no snowy
+plumes of _reva-reva_—even the beautiful raven tresses of the women have
+all been cut off. This is mourning with a vengeance; and the Court
+circular has commanded that the whole nation shall wear the garb of woe
+for six months. I do hope that at least the commoners will disobey this
+injunction! At present all the men appear like black crows. Apparently
+many are disfigured by foreign dress-coats; and even those who retain
+the national _pareo_ (which is the Tahitian word for _sulu_ or
+waist-cloth) are wearing black _tappa_ or black calico; and their heads
+are closely cropped. So sadly disfiguring! and so terribly subversive of
+all our preconceived visions of Papeete, as the very ideal of light, and
+mirth, and soft sunlit colour.
+
+The even tenor of life in Tahiti has received several startling shocks
+since the 24th August, when the French Admiral Serre arrived here in the
+steam-frigate Magicienne, bringing the new governor, M. Brunnet Millet.
+But, sad to say, Madame Brunnet Millet died on the voyage from sheer
+sea-sickness; and her poor husband, who adored her, became positively
+imbecile from grief, so that he had to resign office immediately on his
+arrival.
+
+His natural successor would have been M. La Barbe, who, however, had
+made himself generally obnoxious to the Tahitians, and to the queen in
+particular, by the injudiciously severe penalties which he enforced for
+some of her son’s peccadilloes. She therefore wrote to the admiral to
+say that if La Barbe became governor, she would at once leave Tahiti and
+retire to Moorea, thus leaving all business at a dead-lock. Thereupon
+the admiral promised that her will should be respected, and announced
+that he would himself assume the office of governor, till such time as a
+fresh appointment could be made in Paris. La Barbe remonstrated. The
+admiral bade him be silent. He persisted, and was immediately placed
+under arrest for fourteen days, at the end of which time his sword was
+returned to him, and he had to put it on, and go to thank the admiral
+formally for his goodness in restoring it! But as his presence in the
+Isles would thenceforth have been unpleasant, he and his wife and
+grown-up son, together with M. Brunnet Millet, have been shipped as
+passengers on board La Loire, which is now lying alongside of us, on the
+eve of sailing for France. She is a great big line-of-battle ship,
+transformed into a transport, for the conveyance of convicts from France
+to New Caledonia, but returns comparatively empty. So far, her passenger
+list does not sound cheerful!
+
+The moment we reached our moorings, a boat was despatched in hot haste
+to convey to the admiral the despatches concerning the little episode in
+Samoa. I fear our kind captain is not free from misgivings as to the
+light in which that unlucky business may be viewed by his superior
+officer.
+
+                                              H.B.M. CONSULATE, PAPEETE,
+                                                  _Sunday Evening_.
+
+Alas! alas! the wretched Samoan adventure has indeed ended most
+lamentably. The admiral, who from all accounts is a very severe stern
+man, had no sooner read Captain Aube’s report, than he signalled for him
+to go on board La Magicienne, and informed him, that as _he_ was quite
+incapable of understanding his line of action at Samoa, the only thing
+he could do was to send him back to France, as a passenger in La Loire,
+that he might himself explain his motives at headquarters;[35] in short,
+he removed him from his command of the Seignelay.
+
+Ten minutes later, the fine old sailor returned on board the vessel that
+was no longer his, to announce this dreadful news to his officers, on
+whom the blow fell like a thunderbolt. For, as I have told you, they
+have all lived together on the most cordial terms; and no family, losing
+a dearly loved father, could be more utterly wretched than are all on
+board, both officers and men. Many fairly broke down; and I am sure I do
+not wonder, for it is a lamentable break-up of _such_ a happy
+ship-family. What a _bouleversement_ of all the pleasant pictures we
+were conjuring up only last night! Certainly this is a very heavy
+penalty for what was, at the worst, an error in judgment.
+
+The regret on shore is almost as great as on the vessel; for Commandant
+Aube is well known here, and exceedingly popular with all the foreign
+residents, who had hoped that he would be appointed Governor of Tahiti.
+This is a grievous ending to our delightful voyage, and I need not tell
+you how downhearted I feel about it all. I could almost wish that we had
+never gone near miserable Samoa, with all its jars and hatreds.
+
+I must close this letter, as the little mail-schooner Nautilus sails for
+San Francisco in the morning, taking as passengers Monseigneur Elloi and
+M. Pinart. They hope to be able so to represent matters at Washington
+and in Paris as to put the Samoan episode in the best possible light.
+
+I grieve to say the bishop is very ill; all these worries are very
+trying to him, and he loses ground daily. The prospect of so long a
+voyage in a little schooner of about 200 tons, with very mixed society,
+is anything but pleasant for an invalid, and a trying change from the
+comforts of the big ship. The actual distance is 4000 miles, and the
+voyage may be made in twenty-five days. But with contrary winds, the
+distance is sometimes increased to 6000 miles, and the voyage occupies
+six weeks! So I cannot tell at what date this letter will reach
+you.—Good-bye.[36]
+
+                                          _Chez_ THE REV. JAMES GREEN,
+                                              LONDON MISSION, _9th Oct._
+
+To-day has concluded the tragedy. Last night (after a farewell dinner
+with his officers, and a few touching last words to his men, who wept
+bitterly, sobbing aloud like children, and who cheered him lustily as he
+left the ship) Commandant Aube came ashore to take leave of his friends
+here, and at the British consulate. He was accompanied by his faithful
+dog, Fox, a poor sickly hound, on whom he has lavished infinite care and
+kindness throughout the voyage, but which he will leave here in charge
+of a Tahitian; so he starts on this sad voyage without even his dog as a
+companion. We escorted him to the shore, and sorrowfully watched his
+boat making for La Loire, the old line-of-battle ship, which sailed this
+morning with so sad a company. The poor Seignelay had the odious task of
+towing her out of harbour; and, as the ships parted, all the men burst
+into uncontrollable shouts of “Vive notre commandant!”—a spontaneous
+demonstration, which must have been more satisfactory to its hero than
+to the stern admiral.
+
+Just then an accident happened, which might have proved very serious. La
+Loire accidentally slipped a great tow-rope, which got entangled in the
+screw of the Seignelay; and, misunderstanding the signal to lower sail,
+the ponderous old vessel nearly ran down the lighter steam-ship, which
+could neither work her screw nor answer to her helm, but had to hoist
+sail and run before the wind. Being unable to turn, she had to sail
+straight out to sea for some hours, far out of sight.
+
+I watched this inexplicable movement from the semaphore—a high station
+commanding a magnificent view of town and harbour, and of the distant
+isle of Moorea. The old sailor in charge was as much perplexed as
+myself. He decided that the Seignelay must have been despatched to the
+Marquesas or elsewhere, with secret orders; while I decided that she
+must have “revolutioned,” and gone off to France. However, this evening
+she returned, under sail, and was able to go to the assistance of a
+vessel that had drifted on to the reef; so, on the whole, it was rather
+a fortunate episode, as it helped to distract the thoughts of all on
+board.
+
+Most of the residents here, bitterly as they regret the whole business,
+seem to agree that the admiral has really taken the wisest course, both
+as preventing (in the sense of _prévenant_) any possible remonstrance
+from England—in case she should espouse the cause of that very shady
+Anglo-American Fijian-Samoan house, with its convenient variety of
+flags—and perhaps, also, as saving M. Aube from harder judgment in
+France. But of course none of the officers can realise what a foolish
+episode that night’s work appears to every one here.
+
+I have not yet told you anything of my own movements. On Sunday
+afternoon, M. de Gironde escorted me to the British consulate, there
+duly to report myself to Mr Miller, who for thirty years has been
+England’s popular representative here; indeed he has never left Tahiti
+since the day he first landed here, with his bright, sensible, little
+Peruvian bride. Now they have three grown-up sons, and a pleasant
+daughter, married to M. Fayzeau, a French naval officer, in charge of
+native affairs. He is a charming musician, and most graceful artist, and
+has promised to make my way easy for several sketching expeditions.
+
+I had not been an hour ashore, when (on the strength of a letter of
+introduction from Dr Turner of Malua) I received the very kindest
+invitation from Mr and Mrs Green to come and stay with them in this
+their lovely home, just out of the town, and close to the consulate—a
+delightful nest, embowered in mango and bread-fruit trees, with
+oleanders and hybiscus to lend colour to the whole. It is only separated
+from the sea by the pleasant garden and a belt of turf; so there is
+nothing to impede the view of the beautiful harbour and blue peaks of
+Moorea, while the valley behind the house runs up to a background of
+fine hills, which all to-day have been bathed in soft sunlight—that
+clear shining that comes after rain.
+
+On one side of the little lawn stands a noble old banyan-tree, from the
+very heart of which grows a tall cocoa-palm,—a curious tree-marriage,
+greatly admired by the people; but in an evil hour an idiotic surveyor
+ascended this tree to take observations, and fastened a wire to the
+primary fronds, thereby of course cutting them, and so killing the palm,
+which now remains a poor dead monument of ignorant stupidity. The banyan
+suffers from another cause. The Tahitians believe that a decoction of
+its brown filaments and rootlets is a certain remedy for some forms of
+illness. They are therefore continually appealing to Mr Green for
+permission to cut them; and thus the growth of the tree is considerably
+checked. However, it covers a sufficient space to form a famous
+playground for the children, of whom there are a cheery little flock,
+though here, as in most remote colonies, the absence of all the elder
+ones forms the chief drawback to the happiness of their parents. But
+education in all its aspects has to be sought elsewhere than in
+beautiful Tahiti, by those who do not wish their families to become
+altogether insular; and my host and hostess retain far too loving
+memories of their own early homes in Wiltshire and Devon to allow their
+children to grow up estranged from their English kinsfolk.
+
+This, like the majority of houses here, is a wooden bungalow, one storey
+high, with verandah, on to which all rooms alike open—by far the coolest
+and most suitable form of building for the tropics. But there are a
+number of two and three-storeyed houses in the town, inhabited by French
+officials and foreign merchants—notably the French governor’s house, and
+the unfinished “palace,” which has been in slow progress for many years.
+
+At the former, Admiral Serre now holds the reins. Stern though he be in
+public matters, he is wonderfully kind and pleasant socially, and seems
+to guide his iron hand with much wisdom in carrying out the course of
+action he has marked out for himself. As you know, he had scarcely
+determined on taking the government into his own hands when Queen Pomare
+died quite suddenly, to the exceeding grief of her people. Great was
+their anxiety as to what course the French would now adopt,—the royal
+family being so much at sixes and sevens that there was very good reason
+to fear that even the semblance of the ancient rule would henceforth be
+dispensed with.
+
+Instead of this, the admiral devoted his whole energies to bringing
+together its various branches—healing their breaches, inculcating
+sobriety (with marvellous success so far), and generally getting them
+into a satisfactory condition. Queen Pomare’s two eldest sons, Ariiaue
+and Tamatoa, have been very naughty boys, in most respects. The former
+has married a very handsome girl, aged seventeen—Marau Salmon; but
+hitherto the marriage has not proved happy. Tamatoa was for a while King
+of Raiatea; but was apt to carry on such dangerous games when he was
+drunk, that his subjects drove him out of the island. He is, however,
+very clever and amusing, and is blessed with an adoring wife—a very
+charming and excellent woman, as good as she is bonnie; Moë is her
+pretty name. Queen Pomare’s third son, Joinville, died leaving a son.
+The fourth, Tevii Tapunui, is a very good fellow, but sadly lame.
+
+Well, by dint of coaxing and reasoning, and by turns assuming the part
+of father and “governor,” the admiral first of all persuaded Ariiaue and
+Marau to make up the peace, and then proclaimed them King and Queen as
+Pomare V. and Marau Pomare—a ceremony of which I have just read full
+particulars in the ‘Messager de Tahiti,’ which, under the heading, “Le
+prince royal Ariiaue est salué roi des Iles de la Société et
+dépendances,” gives a detailed account of the meeting of the Legislative
+Assembly of Tahiti, convened by “M. le Contre-Amiral Serre
+Commandant-en-chef, Commandant provisoire des Etablissements français de
+l’Océanie, pour reconnaître et acclamer le nouveau souverain de Tahiti.”
+
+The Legislative Assembly received with acclamation the decisions of the
+omnipotent admiral, who not only proclaimed Ariiaue king, but has
+further settled the succession for two generations to come. Queen Marau
+being half English, any child to which she may give birth is excluded
+from the throne in favour of the little Princess Teriivaetua, daughter
+of the king’s brother Tamatoa, and the charming Moë, ex-King and Queen
+of Raiatea—thus securing the pure Tahitian blood-royal. Failing issue of
+the little Princess Vaetua, the succession is to pass to her cousin,
+Prince Terriihinoiatua, commonly called Hinoi—a very handsome boy, son
+of the third royal brother, now deceased, who was known as the Prince de
+Joinville.
+
+These decisions are said to have given great satisfaction to the
+Tahitians, who, with very good reason, had feared that, on the death of
+the old queen, the French would take the nominal power as well as the
+real, which they have so long held.
+
+Pomare’s proud independent spirit must have chafed sorely under their
+tutelage; but she contrived to endure it for thirty-five years. She was
+just sixty-five when she died, having been born on the 28th February
+1813.
+
+She was the only daughter of King Pomare II., who was the very first
+friend of the missionaries when they attempted to get a footing in these
+isles, and proved their stanch supporter to the end of his days.[37] His
+daughter’s name was Aimata. In the year 1822 she married the young chief
+of Tahaa, who had received the name of Pomare as a mark of special
+favour from the old king. Thus Aimata became known as Pomare-Vahine;[38]
+the correct designation for a married woman being thus to append the
+term for wife to the name of the husband. In January 1827 she succeeded
+her brother, Pomare III., and reigned supreme till 1843, when the French
+assumed the Protectorate.
+
+Young Queen Marau Pomare is one of a large family of very handsome
+half-whites—children of a high chiefess of Tahiti, who married a much
+respected English Jew, Mr Salmon. She has three stalwart sons and five
+most comely daughters, whose rich olive complexion, black silken
+tresses, mellifluous voices, and foreign intonation in speaking English,
+are all suggestive of Italy.
+
+The eldest daughter, who owns the formidable title of
+Tetuanuireiaiteruiatea—though, happily, known to her personal friends by
+the more euphonious name of Titaua—is herself a very high chiefess both
+of Tahiti and Moorea, on each of which she owns several large estates.
+At the early age of fourteen she married a wealthy Scotch merchant—Mr
+Brander—who died a few months ago, leaving to his young widow a heavy
+weight of care, in that her two eldest daughters have married Germans,
+whose mercantile interests are diametrically opposed to those of the
+house of Brander; and who, having vainly striven to wrest the business
+from her, are now pressing for immediate division of property—a process
+which necessitates a most exasperating amount of legal discussion, in
+which questions of English law, native law, and, above all, the Code
+Napoléon, which is the law of the Protectorate, crop up by turns.[39]
+
+Moetia, the second daughter of Mrs Salmon, married the American Consul,
+Mr Attwater. Marau, as you already know, married her royal kinsman;
+while Lois (commonly called Prie, which is a contraction of Beretanie—a
+name adopted out of compliment to Britain) and Manihinihi, the two
+youngest sisters (who both fully sustain the beauty of their race), live
+with their mother—a very fine old lady, whose long native name I cannot
+tell you, but her ordinary signature is Ariitaimai. She was a cousin of
+the late queen, and is said greatly to resemble her.
+
+Her three sons are Taati, Naarii, and Ariipaea—all tall and
+powerfully-built men.
+
+The system of adopting children, which prevails here, is very confusing
+and very peculiar. Every family seems to have at least one belonging to
+some other family. A child is generally bespoken before it is born, and
+as soon as it is weaned it may be claimed by its adoptive parents, who
+give it a new name, by which it is thenceforth known, and who become
+responsible for it in every respect—for its feeding and its education.
+The child is at perfect liberty to pass unquestioned from one home to
+another; so if its second father or mother chance to annoy it, it goes
+and takes up its abode with its real parents till it feels inclined to
+return to the others. When these die, it inherits their property on
+equal terms with their real children. You can imagine that where
+relationships are very intricate to begin with, these additional
+blendings of families create a most bewildering interweaving.
+
+Then all the intermarriages of the principal families add to the
+confusion. Every one on Tahiti, Eimeo, Bora-Bora, and the Society Isles
+generally, seems to be related to every one else, at least among the
+high chiefs. In no corner of the earth is there a greater respect for
+good ancestry—nowhere is “a lang pedigree” more prized. The most
+singular point, however, is, that whereas in a proposed marriage between
+two persons, both having Tahitian blood (whether pure or partial does
+not matter), the greatest anxiety is manifested to prove that blood
+sufficiently blue, and any suggestion on the part of a high chief of
+wishing to wed a maiden of low degree calls forth a storm of indignation
+from all his relations; yet if a Tahitian woman of the highest class
+chooses to marry a European of very dubious rank by birth, not a voice
+is raised in opposition. I believe the solution of this curious point
+lies in the fact that here, as in Fiji, a child takes rank from his
+mother, so that he is in many instances a much more important person
+than his father. It is the same peculiarity which I pointed out to you,
+when writing from Fiji, respecting the customs of its chiefs.
+
+I have just heard that a very leaky ship is to sail for Sydney
+to-morrow, and a better one starts for New Zealand next week; so in
+order to lose no chance of a letter reaching you, I shall despatch this
+_viâ_ Sydney, and send you another _viâ_ New Zealand. Meanwhile,
+good-bye.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XI.
+   PAPEETE—CATHOLIC MISSION—PROTESTANT MISSION—A CHRISTENING PARTY—LA
+        MAISON BRANDÈRE—TALES OF THE PAST—EVENINGS IN TAHITI—LA
+                         MUSIQUE—PLANS—SUNDAY.
+
+
+                                  _Care of the_ REV. JAMES GREEN,
+                              PAOFAI, PAPEETE, TAHITI, _Saturday, 13th._
+
+DEAREST NELL,—It is high time I sent you a cheerier letter than the
+last, which was written just after our dreary arrival in a dismal storm,
+and further overshadowed by the distressing manner in which our happy
+party was so summarily dispersed. With the exception of that one sad
+cloud, no drawback of any sort has arisen. The cordial kindness of every
+creature here, the easy luxury of very simple social life, a heavenly
+climate, and the dream-like loveliness of the isles, all combine to make
+up as charming a whole as can possibly be conceived. It is the sort of
+place in which one is made to feel at home at once: from the moment I
+landed every one seems to have tried what he or she could do for the
+enjoyment of the stranger. It is a region of true hospitality.
+
+Certainly this is a very pretty little town. Its simple village streets
+are all laid out as _boulevards_, and form pleasant shady avenues, the
+commonest tree being the pretty yellow hybiscus with the claret-coloured
+heart, so common in Fiji, where it is called _surya_. Here its name is
+_boorau_. The names of the streets recall Parisian memories. The
+shadiest and widest street is the Chinese quarter, and its poor little
+wooden houses are Chinese stores and tea-shops. It rejoices in the name
+of Rue de Pologne, while the principal real street is the Rue de Rivoli,
+where are merchants’ stores, _cafés_, grog-shops, and even hotels of
+some sort. Of course the pleasantest locations are those which face the
+harbour and catch the sweet sea-breeze; and the largest stores for
+provisions and dry goods are in the Rue de Commerce, each possessing its
+own wharf. I fear the word wharf may suggest the dirty prosaic wharves
+of England, an idea which you must banish at once; for business in its
+dingy aspect is not obtrusive, and the harbour-wall is but a stone
+coping for soft green turf, where girls with light rods sit fishing, and
+market-boats land their cargo of gay fruit and fish, while the motley
+throng pass and repass—Tahitians, French sailors and soldiers, Chinamen,
+black-robed French priests, and all the nondescript nationalities from
+the ships.
+
+There is a considerable foreign population, including, of course, a
+large staff of French officials of all sorts—civil, naval, and
+military—and their presence seems a _raison d’être_ for a strong corps
+of _gens d’armes_, who otherwise would certainly seem an incongruous
+element in the South Seas.
+
+By a recent census I learn that the native population of Tahiti is
+somewhere about 8000; that of Moorea, 1500. That there are in the group
+830 French, 144 citizens of the United States, 230 British subjects, and
+about 700 Chinese.
+
+The French have both a Protestant and Roman Catholic Mission. The former
+was made necessary by the fact that, on the establishment of the
+Protectorate in 1843, the English missionaries were subjected to such
+very oppressive regulations as greatly impeded their ministrations among
+the people, all of whom were at that time Christians, and, moreover,
+still in the fervour of first love—a love which, it is to be feared, has
+now in a great measure faded to the light of common day, as might be
+expected from the large influx of infidel, or at best, wholly
+indifferent, foreigners.
+
+The Church of Rome having resolved to proselytise this already occupied
+field, sent here a bishop and many priests, with a supplementary staff
+of “Frères et Sœurs de Charité.” I think the Sisters are of the order St
+Joseph de.... The foreigners connected with the Catholic mission number
+in all about forty persons. They have had large aid and encouragement
+from the French Government, who compelled the chiefs of Tahiti and
+Moorea to build a church for their use in each district. Nevertheless,
+out of the 8000 inhabitants, 300 nominal adherents is the maximum which
+the Catholics themselves have ever claimed, but fifty is said to be
+nearer the mark.
+
+The French Protestant Mission, however, found it desirable to send
+French subjects to the support of the London Mission, of which Mr Green
+is now the only representative. His coadjutors are M. Viennot, M.
+Vernier, and M. Brun—all married men and _pères de famille_. The latter
+is _pasteur_ of Moorea. M. Viennot has a large Protestant school both
+for boys and girls of pure French and pure Tahitian blood, and of all
+shades of mixed race. We went to see his charming house, which is the
+most romantic nest, for a school, that you can well imagine, with wide
+verandahs and a large pleasant garden. Several of the daughters of the
+early English missionaries assist in teaching; and everything about the
+establishment seems bright and healthy in tone.
+
+The third French _pasteur_, M. Vernier, was a student friend of Lord
+Lorne’s at Geneva (under Merle d’Aubigné), and returned with him to
+Inveraray for three months, ere resuming his own studies for a while in
+Edinburgh. Consequently he retains most loving recollections of
+everything linked with those very happy days; and it struck me
+pleasantly, in this far-away isle, to find in his little drawing-room
+many familiar photographs of Inveraray faces and places. Now his pretty
+wife is mother of half-a-dozen typical French little ones, the youngest
+of whom was the hero of a very pleasant dinner-party, given by his
+parents the night before last, in honour of his baptism. There were
+about a dozen persons present, including all the members of the
+Protestant Mission, Captain Guignon of the Bossuet (a most friendly
+trading vessel belonging to the firm of Messrs Tandonnet of Bordeaux),
+and myself. All the time of dinner, the _petit nouveau-baptisé_ was laid
+on the floor, where he rolled about laughing and crowing with delight,
+while the other children played quietly beside him. It was a scene of
+graceful home life, and illustrates the easy unconventional pleasures of
+social existence in this sweet isle.[40]
+
+It certainly is very strange how one invariably finds home links in all
+corners of the earth. If there was one place more unlikely than another
+to do so, I should have thought it was Tahiti. But, as usual, I find
+myself quite _en pays de connaissance_. The day after I landed, Mrs
+Miller drove me in her nice pony-phaeton to call on Mrs Brander. I
+naturally expected that our conversation would be on purely insular
+subjects. Imagine my astonishment when, after the first greetings, this
+beautiful Anglo-Tahitian turned the conversation to Scotland—Morayshire,
+Speyside, Elgin, and many friends there—and spoke of them all from
+intimate personal acquaintance!
+
+Then, for the first time, it flashed across me that the name which had
+become so familiar to my ear as that of _la Maison Brandère_, was simply
+that of a county neighbour in Scotland; and that Mr Brander of Tahiti
+was none other than a half-brother of Lady Dunbar Brander,[41] who in
+his early youth left Elgin and went forth to carve his fortune in
+foreign lands. You know how little interest people in Britain take in
+watching the career of such lads, unless they chance to come home to
+spend their gold. Mr Brander did not come home. He found in the South
+Seas a field for his vast energies—embarked in trade, added ship to ship
+till he owned a considerable fleet, and so his connection spread from
+group to group; and he bought lands and built stores on all manner of
+remote isles, and in course of time amassed a gigantic fortune. His
+marriage with Titaua Salmon must have tended greatly to secure his
+position in these isles; and so his business went on ever increasing,
+till at length mind and body broke down under the constant strain, and
+he died, leaving the whole care of his immense business to his young
+widow, who is only thirty-four now, the eldest of her nine children
+having been born when she was fifteen! She is the mother of as pretty a
+covey as you could wish to see, beginning with two lovely grown-up
+married daughters and one or two grandchildren, and ending with two
+darling little girls, one of whom bears the charming name of Paloma, the
+dove.
+
+Mr Brander most wisely resolved that his wife’s brothers and his own
+sons should have the advantage of a first-rate education in Britain.
+Several of the boys are still at school at St Andrews, whence Alexander,
+the eldest, recently came out here; but he must shortly return to
+England, to look after property belonging to his father.
+
+In all these far countries people talk of a run to England and back as
+if it was the veriest trifle!—merely a run of fifty or sixty days, _viâ_
+San Francisco, and across the United States; or, if economy has to be
+considered, a voyage of 140 days in a sailing-ship round Cape Horn!
+
+This afternoon Mme. Fayzeau took me for an exquisite drive into the
+country. We drove along the shore on a road of fine green turf, skirting
+the lovely calm lagoon, and passing by an endless succession of small
+wooden houses, each almost hidden in bowers of blossom and shady fruit
+trees, with pleasant lawns, where merry children played, while their
+elders sat or lay on mats sewing, or twining wreaths, or rolling
+cigarettes—all suggesting lives of easy-going happiness without undue
+care; and the air was made musical by rippling laughter and mellifluous
+voices.
+
+I scarcely know why it is that Tahitian sounds so much more attractive
+than the sterner Tongan tongue. Individual words are actually less
+liquid, because of the frequent use of the aspirate. I am told, as
+rather a curious fact, that whereas the Samoans and Tongans are so very
+profuse in their expression of the word “thanks,” the Tahitians, like
+the New Zealanders, have no equivalent for it.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  LE DIADÈME. AVENUE DE FAUTAWA.
+  TAHITI.
+]
+
+For love of his master, we went to see Commandant Aube’s poor sick dog
+Fox, and learnt that it died very soon after his departure. Then we
+drove through a most beautiful wide avenue of dark-green trees,
+something like the Caroba, or locust-trees of Malta, completely
+overshadowing the broad green drive. And now we were facing the
+mountains in the centre of the isle, and looked up the lovely valley of
+Fautawa, at the head of which towers a magnificent hill, so
+symmetrically indented as to resemble a gigantic crown. Hence its common
+name, Le Diadème, though to the natives it is still Maiauo.
+
+Returning towards Papeete, we met many carriages and equestrians; for
+here there is no lack of either. Most of the gentlemen were making their
+way to a river, which is a favourite bathing-place; and I need not tell
+you that a river-bath is one of the chief delights of a day in the
+tropics.
+
+Mrs Brander had invited us all to dine at The Red House, which is her
+town home—a large three-storeyed red-brick house. There, amongst other
+friends, we met a very delightful old lady, Mrs Simpson—a true “mother
+in Israel.” Widow of one of the early missionaries, she shared in all
+his labours, and in the joy of beholding the dawn of Christianity, when
+its first rays dispelled the dark night of heathenism. Many a wondrous
+change have those clear observant eyes witnessed in her half-century of
+working life in these fair isles, and many a tale of thrilling interest
+has she to tell of scenes enacted within her own recollection.
+
+Of course, with the advance of civilisation, many of the picturesque
+elements of earlier days have passed away. The natives no longer
+assemble on shore to practise their writing lessons on the smooth
+sea-beach; neither do they carry sand into the schools, that, by
+spreading it on a closely-woven mat or rude table, it may serve as a
+simple slate on which to work out the puzzles of arithmetic. The
+advanced scholars no longer seek for smooth stones on the mountains, to
+be polished with sea-sand till fine writing can be traced on them with
+the spines of the echini.
+
+Nor are the large leaves of the plantain used as letter-paper on which
+to send messages, written with a blunt stick, which bruised the delicate
+leaf without cutting it, and so produced a tracing of brown writing on a
+glossy green surface. These letters were rolled up like a sheet of
+parchment and tied with a strip of bark. A plantain-leaf being about
+fifteen inches wide, and perhaps six feet in length, would allow of a
+very long message being written on one scroll, and answered very well,
+provided the letter had not far to travel; but of course the leaf would
+shrivel and split within a few days. Now letters are written on common
+note-paper, and bear the postage-stamps of the French Republic.
+
+No longer are children summoned to school, and congregations to worship,
+by the king’s messenger, lightly draped, but gaily wreathed, passing
+swiftly round the village, blowing loud blasts on his great
+trumpet-shell, and pausing at intervals to invite the presence of the
+people. Now his place is filled by the very commonplace bell of
+civilised life.
+
+In the matter of dress, too,—though we may be thankful that Prince
+Alfred’s strong commendation of the graceful _sacque_ has caused it to
+triumph over all varieties of changeful and unbecoming fashion, which
+for a while found favour here, and which ere now have covered these
+comely heads with English bonnets and close-fitting white caps (!)—the
+artistic eye would certainly prefer the dress of olden days: that of the
+women consisting of soft drapery of beautiful cream-coloured native
+cloth, wound round the body, passed under one arm and knotted on the
+other shoulder, revealing the shapely neck and arm, while gay garlands
+wreathed their hair; and for ear-rings, some wore a fragrant blossom
+passed through one ear, and, in the other, two or three large pearls
+fastened together with finely braided human hair.
+
+The men, so many of whom have now adopted coat and trousers, then wore
+either a very finely plaited, fringed mat, or a _pareo_—_i.e._, kilt of
+native cloth, made either from the bark of the paper-mulberry or that of
+the bread-fruit, or else from the filaments of the banyan-tree. Of these
+the former was the whitest, and preferred for women; the latter was very
+thin and brown. The cloth made from the bark of the bread-fruit was very
+strong, and was dyed according to taste—either of a rich chocolate, a
+brilliant yellow, or red. The two last were the favourite colours, and
+were obtained from the sap and berries of different trees. Sometimes the
+cloth was reversible—being black on one side and red on the other, and
+varnished with vegetable gum to enrich the colour.
+
+Some wore this handsome material as a cloak—falling from the shoulders
+in flowing drapery, very becoming to a stately chief. Others wore it as
+a _tiputa_ or tippet, which resembled the poncho of South America—being
+simply a long piece of cloth, with a hole cut in the centre, through
+which to pass the head, the garment falling over the back and chest and
+reaching to the knees. Sometimes this _tiputa_ was beautifully
+ornamented; and often it was made of curiously knotted fibre—generally
+that of the hybiscus, from which fine fishing-nets were also made. Those
+who could afford such luxury wore head-dresses made of the long
+tail-feathers of the graceful tropic bird; and the poorest wore gay
+flowers. But these were discarded in favour of regular English hats, and
+the scarlet feathers were used as trimming for shabby black coats. Proud
+was the man who became possessed of a pair of trousers, to be displayed
+alternately on legs or arms! In short, the spirit of innovation was
+attended with the usual hideous incongruities.
+
+Instead of the big European boats of the present day, with nothing
+distinctive except the form of their quaint triangular sail, there were
+formerly fleets of canoes of every size up to 100 feet in length, with
+grotesque carving on the raised stern and prow, and flags and streamers
+of native cloth. They carried large sails of yellow matting, made from
+the long leaves of the screw-pine,[42] which was much lighter than the
+canvas of civilisation, but also much less durable. Here again the
+picturesque element has suffered. In those days there were war canoes
+and chiefs’ canoes, single canoes, and double canoes—like Siamese twins;
+and in every fleet there was always a sacred canoe, that the presence of
+the tribal god might not be lacking.
+
+The gods of Tahiti seem to have been simple enough: some were in the
+form of a large bird, others were merely a hollow cylinder ornamented
+with bright feathers. The blue shark was deified, and had temples
+erected in his honour, and a special priesthood; he was chiefly
+worshipped by fishermen, though few whose path lay over the great waters
+would fail to propitiate so powerful and cruel a foe. Terrible are the
+stories of canoes which have been disabled and water-logged, and of the
+hungry sharks that have gathered round in shoals, and picked off the
+crew one by one, till the canoe, thus lightened, could float again; and
+perhaps one survivor has escaped to tell of his comrades’ fate.
+
+When Pomare II. determined to become a Christian, his first decided act
+was to show the people with what contempt he now regarded the gods of
+his ancestors, to whom the turtle had ever been held sacred. It was
+invariably cooked with sacred fire within the precincts of the temple,
+and a portion was always offered to the idol. A turtle having been
+presented to the king, his followers were about to carry it to the
+_marae_, when he called them back, and bade them prepare an oven and
+bake it like ordinary food, without regard to the idol. Great was the
+consternation of the attendants, who tremblingly obeyed, and watched the
+king himself cut up the turtle and begin to eat. He vainly endeavoured
+to induce those who were with him to share this impious feast: they
+looked for some immediate manifestation of divine anger, and expected to
+see the king stricken before their eyes. Great was their wonder when no
+harm befell him, either on that day or on the morrow; and thus the first
+step was taken towards the overthrow of the old superstition.
+
+It was a simple but effectual test, and one which required considerable
+courage on the part of him who first dared to try it. Pomare, on this
+occasion, did for the people of Tahiti what Queen Kapiolani did for
+those of Hawaii, when, descending to the brink of the awesome crater,
+she defied the goddess Pélé by eating the blue berries held sacred to
+her, and which none dared to taste without first throwing a handful as
+an offering to Pélé.
+
+In like manner did Pomare-Vahine, daughter of the King of Raiatea, teach
+the same lesson to the chiefs of Eimeo, who had brought her a great
+_faamuraa_, or feeding—_i.e._, a gift of roasted pigs, fowls, fish,
+fruit, and vegetables. According to custom, the priests were present to
+crave the blessing of the gods on the whole feast, by first selecting
+the portions to be offered on the altars. But ere the heathen priests
+could make their choice, the Christian chiefess bade her head man
+consecrate the whole by thanksgiving to the Almighty. The crowd of
+bystanders looked on in wonder, and the priests retired, not venturing
+to claim for idol altars the food which, they felt, had thus been
+offered to the Most High.
+
+Many such tales might I now hear and preserve for your benefit, could I
+but find time to listen with an undivided mind.
+
+But there is so much that is new to hear and to see, that I hardly feel
+able to disentangle the threads of so many subjects, which, apparently,
+are all interwoven one with another. Doubtless, by degrees, they will
+arrange themselves in a more orderly fashion.
+
+In the evening we all walked home together, by a pleasant path along the
+grassy shore, passing through a dark thicket of large hybiscus trees,
+then beneath tall cocoa-palms, whose every frond lay clearly shadowed by
+the brilliant light of only a crescent moon. No full moon in England
+could shine with so soft a radiance.
+
+The loveliness of the evenings here is indescribable; and well do all
+the inhabitants know how to enjoy their beauty. Every one saunters forth
+after dinner,—the general rendezvous being a grassy lawn under the great
+trees near Government House, where the admiral’s excellent band plays
+divinely, to the great delight of the Tahitians, who are themselves most
+musical, and who assemble in crowds, listening in rapt delight to the
+operatic airs, and then, by irresistible impulse, dancing joyously on
+the turf, as valse and galop succeed one another.
+
+But nothing could be more orderly and respectable than this mirthful
+crowd, which strikes me the more forcibly from the fact that these are
+not the characteristics generally ascribed to Papeete, but are in great
+measure due to the wholesome influence of Admiral Serre and his
+officers, and to the excellent discipline of the ships now in harbour.
+Of course when a rowdy ship comes in, it is more difficult to preserve
+order; and as most accounts are written by travellers who chance on
+these unlucky times (and perhaps help to cause them), the place has got
+a worse name than it ever deserved. So say the old inhabitants. Its
+present condition of extremely orderly good behaviour is, however,
+undoubtedly an exceptional result of the admiral’s iron rule and
+stringent measures for the general weal. Immediately on his arrival, he
+gave orders that every damsel whose morals were recognised as lax,
+should be at once deported from the gay capital. So, without further
+ado, all such were shipped off to the seclusion of their various country
+districts, or else to more rigid seclusion, in charge of the
+police,—only coming forth to sweep the roads, which, consequently, are
+in a state of exquisite cleanliness and neatness.
+
+It is not to be supposed that the present condition of preternatural
+goodness will very long survive the departure of the admiral, as many of
+the governors of the Protectorate seem rather to encourage what the more
+staid residents deem unseemly frolic. Many of these governors are not
+Frenchmen,—merely Creoles, whom the Tahitians dislike exceedingly, and
+contemptuously describe as _Paumuto-Frane_ (Paumuto-men being Queen
+Pomare’s pig-feeders, and _Frane_ being the equivalent of French). Many
+gross errors and maladministrations have crept in during their rule; and
+the admiral is now devoting his whole great energies to rectifying all
+manner of abuses, greatly to the satisfaction of the Tahitians, with
+whom he is apparently immensely popular. Moreover, he seems determined
+to deal even-handed justice between the Protestant and Catholic
+teachers, which the latter by no means appreciate, having so long been
+greatly favoured by the Creole authorities.
+
+Socially, in his double capacity of admiral and governor, he does all in
+his power to make things pleasant for every one. For my own part, I am
+bound to say that, from the very first evening of our arrival, he has
+been unvaryingly courteous, and in every respect most thoughtful for me.
+We meet very often, as he and some of his suite invariably join Mrs
+Miller’s party every evening at the band, after which they walk back
+with us along the beautiful shore to the British consulate, where we
+generally have a second concert, and much pleasant chat of the most
+polyglot order—English, French, and Spanish, in about equal parts—with
+iced lemonade and liqueurs to help the flow of words!
+
+The only drawback to my enjoyment of all this is the feeling that my
+late most kind _camarades_ are so thoroughly out of it all. Like Rachel
+bemoaning her little ones, they refuse to be comforted, and nothing will
+induce any of them to come ashore to any place where they might by any
+accident meet the admiral. Of course this is rather uncomfortable for
+me; for though they all declare themselves most anxious that I should be
+lionised in the best possible manner (_i.e._, officially), I fear it
+must seem to them as if I had gone over to the enemy.
+
+Still, there is no alternative; and the kindness which is even now
+arranging my future plans, is such that I can but accept it gratefully.
+
+Having proclaimed Ariiaue and Marau, King and Queen of the Isles, the
+admiral is now making arrangements to escort them on a grand ceremonial
+round of all the districts on each of the principal isles, that they may
+personally receive the homage of their people. It will be a very
+interesting occasion, calling forth whatever still remains of old native
+customs. To my great delight, the admiral has asked me to join this
+expedition. At first I treated the suggestion as a mere civil _façon de
+parler_, no other lady having been invited; little Vaetua (Moë’s
+daughter, the future queen) being Marau’s only companion. However, on
+the following day an A.D.C. brought me an invitation in due form, and
+the Millers are delighted, and say it will be the nicest thing possible
+for me. So of course, now, I have definitely accepted, and am looking
+forward to the ploy with the greatest possible interest. There are
+twenty districts in Tahiti, and the intention is to visit two a day,
+which will make our picnic expedition a ten days’ pleasure; after which
+we return here to make a fresh start for the beautiful isle of Moorea.
+
+                                                       _Sunday Evening._
+
+At eight o’clock Madame Fayzeau took me with her to the Roman Catholic
+cathedral for the military Mass, at which all high officials are
+expected to be present. Soldiers with fixed bayonets stand on either
+side of the altar, and others down the aisle, and present arms, kneel,
+stand up, &c., obedient to a loud word of command, which, indeed, is the
+only word spoken aloud till the final benediction and short chant. The
+organ plays the whole time, and the congregation attend to their private
+devotions, or do not, as the case may be. Apparently the fact of being
+present is sufficient. Very few Tahitians attend the eight o’clock Mass.
+The general congregation assemble at nine, when the service is audible,
+and a sermon is preached, partly in Tahitian, partly in French.
+
+After church we went to see the Sisters, some of whom are engaged in
+nursing at the hospital, while the others teach in their own school.
+Returning to the British consulate, we found a pleasant naval
+breakfast-party; after which we enjoyed a calm peaceful afternoon here,
+while Mr Green was engaged with some of his teachers and classes. He has
+the charge of a very large native church here, where he holds forenoon
+service, but frequently has occasion to visit churches in other parts of
+the isle; and one of the many irritating French regulations forbids his
+preaching in any church but his own without a special permit, which has
+to be applied for, and granted afresh, every week, and is often delayed
+till the very last moment, so that he has to wait with his horse ready
+harnessed, and then probably drive much faster than he wishes, to reach
+his destination in time.
+
+As each member of the mission has his own native work to attend to, and
+as every one in the island understands Tahitian, the only foreign
+service is one held on alternate Sunday evenings by Mr Green and the
+French _pasteurs_. This evening it was in English, according to the
+Congregational form, and ended with the Holy Communion.
+
+We had a lovely walk home, but remarked that the Parisian observance of
+Sunday as a _jour de fête_ has superseded that very sacred reverence for
+the Lord’s Day, which is so striking a feature in most of the
+Christianised isles. To-night the crowd at the band was larger and
+noisier than usual, owing to the presence of many French sailors, some
+of whom were nearly as drunk as an average set of blue jackets, under
+similar circumstances, would probably have been.
+
+With some anxiety, I noted a wide halo round the moon, and devoutly
+trust it may not prove an evil symptom of the coming weather; for
+to-morrow morning we start on our grand expedition round the isle.
+
+Now I must try to secure a good night’s rest, so shall close this
+letter, which may take its chance of being taken to _some_ point by
+_some_ vessel in the course of the next ten days.
+
+                                                     YOUR LOVING SISTER.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XII.
+             SHORT SKETCH OF A ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI.
+
+
+                                            _Chez_ THE REV. JAMES GREEN,
+                                                PAPEETE, _25th October_
+
+DEAR LADY GORDON,—I have just heard that a vessel is about to sail, and
+will carry mails, so, though I have not time to write at length, I must
+send a few lines by her. Though antagonisms are not perhaps so openly
+virulent here as in Samoa, there is nevertheless such jealousy among the
+traders that they often try to sneak out of harbour unknown to their
+neighbours, and so we have just lost the chance of sending letters _viâ_
+Auckland by a fine vessel belonging to Godeffroy; but no one knew she
+was going, till she actually sailed.
+
+We returned last night from the grand tour of this isle on the occasion
+of King Pomare’s accession to the throne. Admiral Serre most kindly
+arranged that I should be of the party, and really I do not think I ever
+enjoyed an expedition so much in all my life. It was wonderful luck for
+me just to have come in for so exceptional a chance; for, of course,
+under no other circumstances could I have seen either the country or the
+people to such advantage. It was really like a bit of a fairy tale, and
+all fitted in so smoothly and naturally without the smallest trouble or
+care of any sort, so far as I was concerned. In every respect it has
+been a most delightful trip,—good weather, good roads, and most
+agreeable company. I cannot tell you how often I longed to have you with
+us (remembering how you love driving, and that carriages are an unknown
+luxury in Fiji)!
+
+The admiral had a capital carriage and excellent horses, and such a
+jovial great half-caste driver. And the broad grass drives along the
+shore, generally skirting the sea or passing through the heavenly
+orange-groves, are so delicious, and you glide along so silently through
+ever-changing scenes of beauty. How you would have enjoyed it all!
+
+Besides the royal party and a few native chiefs, there were about twenty
+French officers and the admiral’s excellent brass band, consisting of
+twenty sailors, who have been trained and are kept well up to the mark
+by M. D’Oncieue de la Battye, the admiral’s _chef d’étât-major_, who is
+an excellent musician, and a most agreeable companion—which was
+fortunate, as either he or M. Hardouin, the A.D.C., always occupied the
+third seat in the carriage. Everything on the whole expedition was
+admirably arranged; and although we were such a very large party, there
+was always good accommodation provided, and everything was done
+comfortably.
+
+Each district possesses a very large _cheferie_ or _fareo_,—_i.e._, a
+very large native house built for public purposes—meetings, and the
+accommodation of strangers. Like all the native houses here, they
+consist chiefly of a heavy thatch roof, rounded at both ends, supported
+on a mere framework of posts, and leaving the sides all open, save at
+night, when they are screened in. They generally have good wooden
+floors, often smooth enough to dance upon.
+
+The first of these at which we stopped was most beautifully decorated,
+and tables spread for 300 persons, the chief’s family supplying that for
+_les gros bonnets_—and each family in the district taking entire charge
+of one table. At other places we found the feast spread in temporary
+houses, but everywhere it was gracefully done.
+
+Our night quarters were also most comfortably arranged, and I was
+especially charmed by the beds provided for us,—very large and soft,
+stuffed with the silky tree-cotton; abundant pillows; real mosquito-nets
+and light curtains, tied back with gay ribbons; and such pretty
+coverlets of patchwork, really triumphs of art needlework. Those most in
+favour have crimson patterns on a white ground, but the designs are
+highly artistic. It seems that a Tahitian housewife prides herself on
+her snowy linen and downy pillows—a very happy adaptation of foreign
+customs. Whenever it was possible so to arrange it, Marau and I shared
+the same room, which was a pleasant arrangement.
+
+Each morning our procession of fifteen wheeled vehicles started at 7
+A.M., preceded by native outriders carrying the gay district flag, which
+made a pretty bit of colour as we passed through the green glades. A
+drive of seven or eight miles brought us to our halting-point, where we
+found masses of people assembled to sing _himènes_ of welcome, all,
+however, dressed in black, relieved only by crowns and handkerchiefs of
+yellow, or else a wreath or hat of snowy white bamboo or arrowroot
+fibre, and in their hair soft plumes of snowy _reva-reva_,—a filmy
+ribbon extracted from the cocoa-palm leaf. All the women were supposed
+to have cut off their beautiful long black hair, as mourning for old
+Queen Pomare; but happily a good many had only shammed, so now there is
+no lack of glossy black tresses. Those, however, who affect deep
+mourning, still wear black straw-hats trimmed with crape, and look most
+lugubrious, their dark sallow complexions and raven hair giving them
+such a very sombre appearance.
+
+All the women without exception have their dresses cut on the pattern of
+the old English _sacques_ worn by our grandmothers—that is, a yoke on
+the shoulders, from which the skirt falls to the feet, and trails
+behind. The effect is very easy and graceful, and it is a matter of deep
+congratulation that the dress in fashion in Europe at the period when
+Tahiti adopted foreign garments, should have been one so suitable. It
+would be impossible to devise a cooler dress, as it only touches the
+neck, shoulders, and (very loosely) the arms. The one under-garment is
+low-necked, short-sleeved, and of such a length as to form a sweeping
+skirt, thus combining chemise and petticoat. Shoes and stockings are of
+course superfluous.
+
+Having halted and feasted at the morning district, we started again
+about two o’clock, drove seven or eight miles further, always through
+lovely country, and so reached our night quarters, where we were again
+received by assembled multitudes and congratulatory _himènes_. Then the
+band played, as it had done at our noonday halt, to the great delight of
+the people; and we strolled about, and bathed in some clear crystalline
+stream, reassembling for a great native feast, which, however, was
+served European fashion, as each district possesses its own crockery,
+glass, knives, forks, spoons, &c. The admiral provided French wines and
+bread.
+
+Then followed more _himène_ singing; while we sat listening, entranced,
+either in the great house, or on the beautiful sea-shore, in the perfect
+moonlight. _Himènes_ are a new sensation in music, utterly
+indescribable—the strangest, wildest, most perplexing chants; very
+musical and varied, quite impossible to catch. They are a curious and
+fascinating sort of glee-chorus, in which every one seems to introduce
+any variations he fancies, but always in perfect tune, and producing a
+combination like most melodious cathedral chimes—rising and falling in
+rippling music, and a droning undertone sounding through it all. The
+whole air seems full of musical voices perfectly harmonised—now in
+unison, now heard singly; one moment lulled to softest tones, then
+swelling in clear ringing melody; voices now running together, now
+diverging. The singers compose their own words, which sometimes describe
+the most trivial details of passing events, sometimes are fragments of
+most sacred hymns—according to the impulse of the moment. Perhaps this
+last fact gives us a clue to the origin of the word _hymn-ene_; though I
+fancy that the words sung are often those of older and less seemly songs
+than the hymns taught by the early missionaries.
+
+This is an outline of what has been our daily life for the last ten
+days. All has gone off without a single drawback, and it has been a
+spell of thorough enjoyment: nothing could exceed the kindness of every
+one, whether French or Tahitian. I think that of all the lovely isles I
+have visited, these certainly deserve the palm. Tahiti is a miniature of
+Ceylon, omitting all the great hideous coffee districts in the interior
+(districts made hideous by denudation—the glorious primeval forests
+having been ruthlessly sacrificed to make way for gold-producing crops).
+
+The lovely hills and valleys of Tahiti and Moorea have only gained in
+beauty by the introduction of the fruit-bearing trees, which now form a
+most important feature in the general wealth of foliage—the dense
+thickets of orange-trees having all grown from those brought from Sydney
+by Mr Henry, one of the early missionaries. Strangely enough, the most
+healthy trees are those which have grown self-sown from the seed thrown
+about carelessly by the natives, when they retired to some quiet valley
+to brew their orange-rum in secret. These trees have thriven far better
+than those much cared for, and transplanted.
+
+The splendid mango-trees, whose mass of dark foliage is now so prominent
+a feature on all sides, were introduced less than twenty years ago by
+the French, who have taken infinite trouble to procure all the very best
+sorts, and have succeeded to perfection.
+
+But the special charm of these isles lies in the multitude of their
+streams and rivulets. We calculated that in driving round Tahiti—a
+distance of 160 miles—we crossed 150 streams, all clear as crystal.
+Several of these are large rivers; and all have enchanting pools, most
+tempting to bathers.
+
+The general form of the main isle is that of a double gourd—a large
+circle divided by a rocky ridge from a small one, the centre being
+composed of a tumbled wilderness of mountains rising to a height of 7000
+feet. Precipitous crags, pinnacles, and narrow ridges of black volcanic
+rock, which the natives themselves never care to scale, tower in grand
+forms at the head of each of the countless richly wooded valleys, to all
+of which we looked up from the sea-level. There was only one point where
+we rose to any height—namely, the rocky ridge which connects the
+peninsula with the main isle.
+
+I must not write more at present lest I should lose the mail. Next week,
+if all is well, the Seignelay is to take the royal party across to
+beautiful Moorea, there to repeat the pleasures of the last fortnight on
+a smaller scale. And very soon after our return thence, Mrs Brander
+intends to despatch one of her large vessels to Honolulu to fetch
+cattle, and I purpose taking passage by her, hoping that I shall thus
+have time to see something of the Sandwich Isles, and there find letters
+from you, with such definite plans as shall guide me whether to meet you
+in Australia or New Zealand about Christmas. You will scarcely venture
+to keep the children in Fiji any later in the hot season.—With all
+loving greetings, yours ever,
+
+                                                             C. F. G. C.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XIII.
+  THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI—LIFE DAY BY DAY—HIMÈNES—A BEAUTIFUL
+        SHORE—MANUFACTURE OF ARROWROOT FLOWERS—A DESERTED COTTON
+   PLANTATION—TAHITIAN DANCING—THE AREOIS—VANILLA PLANTATIONS—FORT OF
+                                TARAVAO.
+
+
+                                  PAEA, TAHITI, _Monday, Oct. 15, 1877_.
+
+DEAREST NELL,—We have had a long and most interesting day, and I am
+pretty well tired out. Still I must begin a journal letter to-night, as
+we start again at daybreak, and I am sure you will wish for a detailed
+account of our trip.
+
+This morning at 8 A.M. we started on the _grand tour de l’île_. All the
+luggage of the party had been sent on ahead in heavy _fourgons_, as had
+also the band of the Magicienne, consisting of twenty sailors, in a
+couple of _char à bancs_. Tahitian outriders, carrying the flag of the
+district, preceded Ariiaue, now King Pomare V., who led our procession,
+in a high dogcart, accompanied by his brother Tamatoa, and his little
+nephew Hinoi, son of the late Prince Joinville. Then followed Admiral
+Serre, M. Hardouin, the A.D.C., and myself, in a comfortable open
+carriage, and capital horses. Queen Marau came next, with her lovely
+little sister Manihinihi, and Moë’s child, Terii-Mae-Vaetua, who is next
+in the succession. Sundry and divers vehicles followed, containing about
+twenty French officers, Mr Barff as interpreter, and Joseph Miller.
+
+The weather was perfect—not too hot; a brisk trade-wind brought the sea
+roaring and tumbling in heavy breakers on the coral-reef, about a mile
+from the shore, where our road skirted the calm lagoon, so blue and
+peaceful and still. We drove through districts which seemed like one
+vast orchard of mango, bread-fruit, banana, _faes_, large orange-trees,
+lemons, guavas, citrons, papawas, vanilla, coffee, sugar-cane, maize,
+and cocoa-palm,—together forming a succession of the very richest
+foliage it is possible to conceive. Sometimes we amused ourselves by
+counting such few trees as are not fruit-bearing. Here and there the
+broad grass roads are edged with avenues of tall plantains,—very
+handsome in a dead calm, but too delicate to endure the rough wooing of
+these riotous trade-winds, which tear the huge leaves to ribbons, so
+that the avenues are apt to have a _disjasket_ look.
+
+Even the commonest crops are attractive,—the Indian corn and the sugar,
+each growing to a height of eight or ten feet, with long leaves like
+gigantic grass, and pendent tassels of delicate pink silk.
+
+We halted at various points, where deputations had assembled to welcome
+the king, and about eleven o’clock reached Punavia,—a lovely spot on the
+sea-shore, at the mouth of a beautiful valley, above which towers Le
+Diadème (that same crown-shaped mountain which I told you is so grand as
+seen from Fautawa valley).
+
+Of course I had not failed to bring my large sketching-blocks; and,
+thanks to the kindness of Mr Green, I had been able to replace my
+mildewed paper by a store of French paper, sold by the Government
+offices at Papeete as unfit for use; but to me, after long experience of
+Fijian mildew, it proved an unspeakable prize. M. Fayzeau, himself a
+graceful artist, helped me quickly to select the very best spot for a
+sketch,—from near a ruined French fort on the shore. Two small forts,
+further up the valley recalled the days when Tahiti made her brave but
+unavailing struggle for independence.
+
+Ere long we were summoned to breakfast,—a native feast in a native
+house, which was decorated in most original style, with large patchwork
+quilts. These are the joy and pride of the Tahitian women, and so
+artistic in design as to be really ornamental.
+
+To speak correctly, I should call this repast a _faamuraa_—_i.e._,
+a feeding: our fish should have been wrapped in plantain-leaves,
+and broiled on the embers; the pigs baked on hot stones in earth
+ovens, where the peeled bread-fruit and bunches of _faes_, or
+mountain-plantain, should likewise have been cooked; and the only
+salt provided should have been a little sea-water in a cocoa-nut
+shell. But Tahiti has gone ahead so fast, that I cannot answer for
+how things are done nowadays. I know that, instead of vegetable
+plates—_i.e._, layers of large round hybiscus-leaves—we ate off
+foreign plates, with knives and forks of best electro-plate, and
+drank our red wine from clearest crystal glasses, and snowy
+napkins were not forgotten.
+
+There was a considerable consumption of raw fish, which is considered a
+very great delicacy, and one for which many foreigners acquire a strong
+liking. There is no accounting for tastes. King Ariiaue, who takes great
+care of me at meals, has been trying to teach me this enjoyment, and on
+my objecting, declares it is mere prejudice, as of course I eat oysters
+raw—we might almost say alive. To this I can answer nothing, well
+remembering the savage delight with which we have often knocked our own
+oysters off rocks and branches, and swallowed them on the instant! But
+then they are so small, and some of these fish are very large. Perhaps
+one’s instinctive objection is to their size. Those most in favour are
+of a most exquisite green colour.
+
+During breakfast, and afterwards, the glee-singers of the district sang
+_himènes_, which are the national music—most strange and beautiful
+part-songs. Afterwards dancing was suggested; but only a few men
+volunteered to show us the _Upa-upa_—_i.e._, the old national
+dance—which is merely an exceedingly ungraceful wriggle, involving
+violent exertion, till every muscle quivers, and the dancer retires
+panting, and in a condition of vulgar heat. It is the identical dance
+which we saw at the Arab wedding at Port Said, and in various other
+countries—always an unpleasant exhibition. Happily the band struck up
+some gay air, which delighted the people; and it continued to play till
+four o’clock, when our procession again formed, and another lovely drive
+along the shore brought us to Paea.
+
+This is a charmingly situated hamlet of clean, comfortable houses, only
+divided from the white coral-sand by a belt of green turf and fine old
+iron-wood trees. Here our night quarters were assigned to us; and
+certainly we are in clover. I am now sitting in “my own room”—one of
+four good bed-rooms, opening off a large centre room,—all fresh and
+clean, and gay with bright quilts and snowy linen. The king and queen,
+and all the officers, and the band, have their quarters in different
+houses.
+
+But the pride of the district is its very large house for public
+entertainment,—a long building, rounded at both ends like the Tongan
+houses, with heavy thatch, and very light bamboo sides, quite
+transparent. Here dinner was laid, in European style, for 300 guests,—an
+upper table at one end, where the chiefs of the district entertained the
+royal party. Other tables were ranged down each side of the
+building,—each family in the neighbourhood undertaking to provide for
+one, and there assemble their own friends. The whole great building is
+beautifully decorated in Tahitian style, with palm-leaves and
+tree-ferns, and festoons of deep fringe, made of hybiscus fibre, all
+dyed either yellow or white: there must be _miles_ of this fringe on
+that house. Yellow is happily admitted in Court mourning; so the
+majority of the people have either a yellow neck-tie, or some yellow
+flowers in their hats—a symptom of mitigated affliction, to express the
+pleasure that now mingles in their grief for the good queen.
+
+“Le Roi est mort,—Vive le Roi!”
+
+But everywhere we find all the people clothed in long black robes, with
+black hats and cropped hair, instead of the customary bright colours,
+long glossy tresses, and gay wreaths. Here, even the district flag-staff
+is adorned with a deep fringe of black fibre.
+
+We went to dinner in most orthodox fashion, the admiral conducting
+Marau, and Ariiaue taking me. The feast was warranted to be entirely _à
+l’indigène_,—all native dishes; but its great charm consisted in the
+table decorations, which were most ingenious and effective. Apparently
+each table had a series of white marble centre-vases, which, on close
+inspection, proved to be graduated lumps of the thick fleshy
+banana-stalk. In these were arranged all manner of artificial flowers,
+made of coloured leaves, or of the glossy white arrowroot fibre, or
+bamboo fibre, which are used in making wreaths and hats; and from some
+there floated a silvery plume of the lightest silky film, like fairy
+ribbons. This is the snowy _reva-reva_, extracted from the interior of
+young cocoa-palm leaves—a difficult operation, requiring the neatest
+hand and long practice. As yet, I cannot produce more than a few inches
+unbroken. The worker keeps a split stick, stuck in the ground beside
+her, and into its cleft fastens one end of each ribbon as she peels it,
+otherwise the faintest breath of air would blow it away. It is the
+loveliest gossamer you can imagine.
+
+At the end of the feast Tamatoa gave the example of adorning his own hat
+and those of his neighbours with these lovely plumes, and all the pretty
+arrowroot and bamboo flowers. Then we adjourned to the grassy shore, and
+watched the clear full moon rise from the calm sea, while the
+glee-singers sang their soft beautiful choruses. A few men and one or
+two women began the same hideous dance with which they had favoured the
+company in the forenoon, but they met with small encouragement, and the
+singers carried the day—or rather the night.
+
+I wish it were possible for me to describe Tahitian _himènes_ so as to
+give you the faintest shadow of an idea of their fascination. But the
+thing is utterly impossible. Nothing you have ever heard in any other
+country bears the slightest resemblance to these wild exquisite glees,
+faultless in time and harmony, though apparently each singer introduces
+any variations that occur to him or her.
+
+The musicians sit on the grass—or the mats, as the case may be,—in two
+divisions, arranged in rows so as to form two squares. A space is left
+between these where the “conductor,” should there chance to be one,
+walks up and down, directing the choruses. But very often there is no
+leader, and apparently all sing according to their own sweet will. One
+voice commences: it may be an old native tune, with genuine native words
+(the meaning of which we had better not inquire), or it may be a
+Scriptural story versified, and sung to an air originally imported from
+Europe, but so completely Tahitianised that no mortal could recognise
+it, which is all in its favour; for the wild melodies of this isle are
+beyond measure fascinating.
+
+After one clause of solo, other voices strike in—here, there,
+everywhere—in harmonious chorus. It seems as if one section devoted
+themselves to pouring forth a rippling torrent of Ra, ra, ra-ra-ra!
+while others burst into a flood of La, la, la-la-la! Some confine their
+care to sound a deep booming bass in a long-continued drone, somewhat
+suggestive (to my appreciative Highland ear) of our own bagpipes. Here
+and there high falsetto notes strike in, varied from verse to verse, and
+then the choruses of La and Ra come bubbling in liquid melody; while the
+voices of the principal singers now join in unison, now diverge as
+widely as it is possible for them to do, but all combine to produce the
+quaintest, most melodious, rippling glee that ever was heard. Some
+_himènes_ have an accompaniment of measured hand-clapping, by hundreds
+of those present. It is curious in its way, chiefly as a triumph of
+perfect time, but I do not think it attractive. The clear mellifluous
+voices need no addition; and as they ring out suddenly and joyously, in
+the cool evening, I can imagine no sound more inspiriting.
+
+To-night our party received a pleasant addition, the queen’s two
+sisters, Moetia and Prie, having driven over from Papeete, on their way
+to join their mother, Mrs Salmon, who, as high chiefess of the next
+district, is to receive her daughter to-morrow morning.
+
+All the time I have been writing to you, there have been occasional
+bursts of _himène_ singing, and of the far less musical accompaniment of
+the _Upa-upa_; but now quiet reigns, so I may as well sleep while I can.
+Good-night.
+
+                                   MATAIEA, PAPEOORIRI, _Tuesday, 16th_.
+
+This morning we were all astir at 5 A.M., and had early coffee on the
+cool verandah. All the luggage was started by 6 o’clock, and then I had
+a quiet hour’s sketching from beneath one of the great iron-wood trees
+(_casuarina_). At 7 o’clock our procession started; every one cheery and
+good-tempered; on every side hearty greetings—“_Yarra na! Yarra na!_”
+and sounds of careless laughter, and merry voices. There is certainly a
+great charm in this pretty liquid language, and in the gentle
+affectionate manner of the people, who seem to be overflowing with
+genial kindliness.
+
+As usual, our path lay through such bowers of endlessly varied foliage
+as to form one continuous panorama of delight. No painter’s brush could
+produce such infinite shades of green as are here multiplied,—from the
+delicate tender hues of the silky young banana-leaves, ranging through
+every description of dark-green and bright-green, blue-green and sunlit
+yellow, till the eye is fain to rest on the sombre hair-like foliage of
+the iron-wood trees, which grow on the very brink of the sea, their long
+tresses literally drooping to the water.
+
+We passed through plantations of coffee, not close-clipped as in Ceylon,
+but growing tall and rank, and overshadowed by cocoa-palms, yet loaded
+with bright scarlet berries. The coffee shrubs are here made to do
+double duty, and serve as props for the vanilla, which is trained to
+creep all over them, its fragrant pods intermingling with the coffee
+cherries.
+
+The broad road of soft green turf next led us through groves of
+luxuriant bread-fruit trees with large pale-green fruit, dark
+mango-trees and orange-trees alike laden with their half-ripe crop, and
+here and there we passed a fragrant rose-apple tree, the fruit of which
+tastes exactly like the scent of roses. But of all heavenly perfumes,
+commend me to the blossom of the Tahitian chestnut, a noble forest-tree,
+with rich dark foliage, standing out in strong relief from the cool
+grey-greens of the hybiscus, with the lemon-coloured blossoms, which
+clothes the base of the mountains.
+
+Beyond that belt of cool shadow the great green hills tower in strange
+fantastic form, seamed by deep valleys, down which pour crystal streams,
+so numerous that the sparkling air seems to re-echo the musical voice of
+many waters. Every weird fantastic rock-pinnacle is draped by clinging
+vines, infinite in their variety, and all alike lovely; and the clear
+sunlight playing on the golden green of the mountain-summits, tells that
+even there, the same wealth of all things beautiful abounds.
+
+This was the panorama that rose on our left hand as we drove along the
+shore. On our right, like a silver shield, lay the calm glittering
+lagoon, reflecting, as in a mirror, the grand masses of white cloud, and
+bounded by the long line of breakers, flashing as they dashed on the
+barrier-reef. Beyond these lay outspread the vast Pacific, its deep
+purple flecked with white crests, telling how briskly the trade-winds
+blew outside. And far on the horizon, the rugged peaks of Moorea rose,
+clear and beautiful, robed in ethereal lilac. Far above our heads the
+light fronds of the cocoa-palm interlaced, forming a fairy canopy,
+through which we looked up to the clearest blue heaven. I think it must
+be a cold unthankful heart that could so look up, without some echo of
+the _Benedicite_—
+
+ “O ye mountains and hills, O ye seas and floods, O all ye green things
+    upon the earth,
+ Bless ye the Lord! praise Him and magnify Him for ever.”
+
+Two hours’ drive brought us to Papara, where a very grand reception
+awaited the young king and queen. Mrs Salmon, the queen’s mother, had
+assembled all her vassals in most imposing array; and a double row of
+_himène_ singers lined the road, singing choruses of congratulation,
+taken up alternately on the right hand and on the left. The effect was
+very pretty. Many relations of the family had also assembled to greet
+their royal kinsfolk.
+
+Very quaint handsome _tiputas_ were presented to the king and the
+admiral. These are ceremonial garments, reaching from the neck to the
+knee, made from the fibre of bread-fruit bark, and covered with flowers
+and twists of the glossy arrowroot fibre, each stitched on separately.
+To the queen, the admiral, and myself, were presented most lovely crowns
+of the same silvery arrowroot; while for the gentlemen were provided
+garlands and necklaces of fragrant white or yellow blossoms, and
+charming hats of white bamboo fibre, manufactured by the ladies and
+their attendants.
+
+I may as well tell you how the lovely arrowroot fibre is obtained. It is
+the inner coating of the flower-stalk, which is a hollow stem like that
+of hemlock, and grows to a height of about four feet. These stalks are
+soaked in running water till the green outer skin begins to decay. Then
+the stalk is laid on a flat wooden board, and a woman slits it open from
+end to end with a sharp shell, with which she then proceeds to scrape
+off every particle of green, and there remains a lovely ribbon, like
+very glossy white satin, ribbed longitudinally: with a sharp thorn she
+divides this into very narrow strips. And this is the material most in
+use in the art-world of Tahiti, being woven by deft fingers into all
+manner of pretty ornaments for hair, dress, and fans. Bamboo is prepared
+in much the same manner, but is a harsher material to work, and much
+less ornamental.
+
+The house at Papara, and the large breakfast-room, were most tastefully
+decorated with great tree-ferns and bright yellow banana-leaves, plaited
+to form a sort of fringe. Wild melodious _himènes_ were sung all the
+time of the feast, and afterwards the band played operatic airs till 3
+o’clock, when we once more started on our journey.
+
+In this district much cultivation has impaired the beauty of wild
+nature. Large tracts of land have been laid out for scientific planting
+of cotton and coffee; and after all, the fields have been abandoned, the
+crops left to run wild, and are now rank straggling bushes struggling
+for life with the overmastering vines. In itself the cotton is a pretty
+shrub, its yellow blossom with claret-coloured heart closely resembling
+the lemon-coloured hybiscus, while its bursting pods offer their soft
+white fluff to all comers. But a softer, silkier cotton for stuffing
+pillows, is that obtained from the tall cotton-tree, with the scarlet
+blossom and long green pod.
+
+We halted at the melancholy deserted plantation of Atiamano, which in
+very recent years was the home of the manager for the Tahiti Cotton and
+Coffee Plantation Company—a reckless speculator with the capital
+intrusted to him. Never was there a truer illustration of the proverb
+concerning cutting broad thongs from other men’s leather.
+
+Mr William Stewart, an ex-cavalry officer, arrived in Tahiti about the
+year 1860, and obtained the sanction of the French governor for the
+purchase of a very large property, to which he gave the name of Terre
+Eugénie, and at once commenced every species of improvement. First-class
+roads, high cultivation, hotels which never paid, because of the
+princely hospitality freely offered to all comers in his own splendid
+country-house;—these, with his genial friendliness and good fellowship,
+naturally made him the most popular man in Tahiti, and one whose praises
+have been sung by all travellers. To work the estates he imported about
+1000 Chinamen, and 300 “foreign labour” from the Central Pacific and the
+Hervey Isles; and to those he is said to have been a kind master, caring
+for them in sickness as in health, by the provision of good hospitals.
+
+Of course there were not lacking enemies who grudged Mr Stewart his
+apparent success, and many were the virulent attacks made upon him by
+other settlers in the group. Specimens of very inferior cotton were
+circulated in Europe, purporting to be samples of the finest growth of
+Atiamano; and sensational paragraphs appeared in various American
+papers, describing the infamous cruelties of which he and his overseers
+were declared guilty towards their wretched labourers. So damaging were
+these attacks, that Mr Stewart demanded a public inquiry, which was
+granted by the French Governor, when all these accusations were proved
+to be iniquitous libels. The little army of 1300 workmen were found to
+be unusually healthy and happy; and the only serious complaint made to
+the commissioners was by the Chinamen, who considered it most unfair of
+Mr Stewart to object to their committing suicide by hanging, as the
+easiest way of paying their gambling debts!
+
+This cloud of aspersions having been effectually disproved, everything
+looked fair on the surface till, in an evil day, the shareholders began
+to take alarm. No title-deeds were forthcoming. All capital had
+evaporated utterly, and in 1874 the luckless manager died miserably, and
+the great bubble burst. Now the whole place is falling to ruin, and a
+more miserable sight I have rarely seen. A certain number of the
+Chinamen still remain—they, of course, can always contrive to pick up a
+living somehow—but the bulk of the large village of wooden houses, once
+tenanted by master and men, now stands empty, the plantation is utterly
+neglected, the cotton-fields are all overgrown with guava scrub, and the
+whole place is a picture of desolation; nothing flourishes save the long
+avenue of plantains, which, Tahiti fashion, are planted on either side
+of the road.
+
+It seems strange that no enterprising person should have stepped in to
+buy up the estate which, at the time of Mr Stewart’s death, was in such
+good working order; but, like everything else in this country, it has
+suffered from the meddling propensities of the French Government, which,
+when the estate was declared bankrupt, fixed on it an upset price so
+exorbitant, that no purchaser has yet been found, nor is any likely to
+come forward.
+
+We have now got into the true orange country. Some of the trees here are
+much larger than the parent trees, which we saw near Sydney; and yet, as
+compared with the orange-groves of Malta, we thought the Australian
+trees were perfect giants—that is to say, we could walk upright under
+their lowest branches. The whole air is perfumed with the fragrant
+blossoms, and boughs have been gathered to adorn our rooms.
+
+Here, though the dining-hall is as fine as in other districts, the
+sleeping quarters are less inviting, so Marau offered me a room in the
+house assigned to her. Being a native house (_i.e._, not built of wood,
+as many now are), it is rather like living in a bamboo cage, exceedingly
+airy and transparent; but it is lined with temporary curtains, so we are
+screened from the general public. This afternoon we strolled along the
+coast till we found a most delightful bathing-place, where the Anapu, a
+clear delicious river, flows into the sea. The two pretty girls,
+Manihinihi and Vaetua, of course bore us company, as also the queen’s
+handmaid, who was laden with _pareos_ and towels; the _pareo_ being
+simply a couple of fathoms of bright-coloured calico, which, knotted
+over one shoulder, forms an efficient and picturesque bathing-gown.
+
+We returned just in time for such a fish-dinner as Greenwich never
+equalled. Fish of all sorts and kinds (cooked and raw to suit all
+tastes), excellent lobsters and crabs, huge fresh-water prawns, delicate
+little oysters, which grow on the roots and branches of the mangrove,
+which fringes some muddy parts of the shore. But most excellent of all
+is another product of the briny mud, altogether new to me—a hideous but
+truly delicious white cray-fish (_cankrelat de mer_, my French friends
+call it, _varo_ or _wurrali_ in Tahitian). We have all registered a
+solemn vow never to lose a chance of a _varo_ feast. Then there were
+shell-fish and salads, and many other good things. The tables were
+decorated in a manner quite in keeping with the dishes served, with
+pillars of white banana root-stem, just like alabaster, with a fringe of
+large prawns at the top, and a frieze of small lobsters below—a very
+effective study of scarlet and white.
+
+After the feast we all sat out in the moonlight, listening to the
+_himène_ singing, which, I need scarcely say, was lovely. But of course
+some districts excel, and have finer voices, more practice, and a better
+conductor.
+
+I have just been told that we are only thirty-five miles from Papeete.
+We have taken the journey in such enjoyably short stages, that we have
+certainly made the most of our distance. Now we are approaching the
+southern peninsula, which is connected with this, the main isle, by a
+comparatively low wide ridge. This we are to cross to-morrow.
+
+                                              ON THE PENINSULA, TARAVOU,
+                                                  _Wednesday, 17th_.
+
+This morning at daybreak the admiral went off to attend Mass, and then
+examine the schools. He seems inclined to administer very even-handed
+justice between the Catholics and Protestants, which does not greatly
+gratify some of the priests. We spent the morning pleasantly strolling
+about the village of bird-cage houses embowered in the orange-groves,
+and gay with rosy oleanders and crimson hybiscus.
+
+At eight we started. The weather was threatening; and soon heavy rain
+came on, which mocked our waterproofs, and gave us a thorough soaking,
+which we all bore philosophically, only regretting that we drove through
+a most lovely ferny pass at a moment when all our umbrellas were
+striving to exclude the rain, in which they failed, and only succeeded
+in hiding the view.
+
+Near the village of Papeari we found all the children of the Catholic
+school, headed by a very pleasant, keen-looking young priest, drawn up
+with the _himène_ singers to welcome the king and the admiral. Of course
+they were all drenched, but none the less musical. At the head of the
+singers stood Marau’s aunt, Minito, a true Tahitian chiefess, sister to
+Mrs Salmon, and widow of Mr Sumner, a Sandwich Island half-white.
+
+The rain having ceased, we all walked together to Mrs Sumner’s house,
+where we were partially dried—no fear of fever in this blessed climate.
+We then proceeded to the large _cheferie_, where breakfast was prepared
+in the usual style—the house prettily decorated with flags, tree-ferns,
+and plaited cocoa-palm leaves. The tables were all adorned with
+ornaments made of the solid white banana-stalk, in which were set
+branches of thorny lemon, and on each thorn were stuck different
+blossoms, scarlet or yellow hybiscus, canna, and gardenia. “When we were
+seated, women came round bearing garlands of the delicate artificial
+arrowroot flowers, and crowned every one of us. Many of the party had
+already secured filmy plumes of the snowy _reva-reva_; and the majority
+of the women, following the good example of Marau, no longer pretend to
+have cut off their beautiful hair, but now wear it in two long jet-black
+tresses, adorned with gardenias or such other fragrant blossoms as they
+may find. With flowers as necklaces and ear-rings, the Court mourning is
+becoming less lugubrious.
+
+After breakfast, _himènes_ as usual, with interludes of most hideous
+dancing. There is never any variety, always the same utterly ungraceful
+wriggle. Happily the band generally comes to the rescue, with some
+attractive air, which puts the dancers to flight. There never seem to be
+more than two or three, and these do it as a professional exhibition—as
+a curious relic of olden times.
+
+It does seem strange (accustomed as I now am to the endlessly varied and
+most graceful dances of the Fijians) to find that these Tahitians have
+apparently no notion of dancing, except this _Upa-upa_, which for many
+years was discountenanced by the chiefs, in their first anxiety to put
+away every trace of heathenism. But under French influence it has been
+revived; and though the more respectable natives consider it an
+objectionable exhibition, and one in which few care to join, a certain
+number of dancers crop up at every village where we halt: their
+position, however, appears to be no higher than that of strolling
+jugglers at English fairs.
+
+In heathen days the _Upa-upa_ was the distinguishing dance of an
+atrocious sect called the Areois—religious fanatics and libertines of
+the vilest order, who were held in reverent awe by the people, and
+allowed every sort of privilege. They travelled from village to village
+in very large companies, sometimes filling from fifty to eighty canoes.
+Whenever they landed great sacrifices were offered to the gods; and for
+so long as they chose to remain in one place, they were the honoured
+guests of the chief, and had to be provided for by the villagers, whom
+they entertained by acting pantomimes and reciting legends of the very
+unholy gods, singing songs in their honour, wrestling, gesticulating,
+and dancing, till they worked themselves up to a pitch of frenzy which
+was considered religious, and the night was spent in wild orgies. Their
+full dress on these occasions generally consisted only of a little
+scarlet and black dye; the seeds of the vermilion-plant and charcoal
+furnishing the materials. At other times they wore kilts of the yellow
+dracæna and wreaths of scarlet Barringtonia.
+
+They were divided into distinct classes, distinguished by the manner in
+which they were tattooed. The lowest class had merely a circle round the
+ankle; the next had one stripe on the left side; the third was marked on
+each shoulder; the fourth on both sides, round the body; the fifth was
+tattooed from the fingers to the shoulders, and the leaders were adorned
+with stockings of the same. The imprinting of these indelible
+class-marks was part of a religious festival, at which great offerings
+of food and goods were presented to the gods, and to these their
+servants, and on this one occasion women, were allowed freely to partake
+of the feast, and to eat of the meat which had been offered in
+sacrifice, which at other times they dared not touch without incurring
+the penalty of death.
+
+The most horrible feature of this society was, that by its primary law
+no Areoi was allowed to rear his offspring. Celibacy was by no means
+enjoined—very much the reverse; indeed each Areoi had an acknowledged
+wife, who was a member of the society: but of the innumerable children
+of these favoured sinners, not one was ever suffered to live; and any
+person desiring to enter the holy brotherhood, was required in the first
+instance to murder any children he might already have. The sect was
+supposed to have been divinely instituted, and its members were sure of
+admission to the Rohutu _noa-noa_, or fragrant paradise, in which the
+blessed were to spend an eternity of feasting, with every delight that
+heart or flesh could desire.
+
+The total extinction of this society was one of the most marked triumphs
+of Christianity in this group; and the early missionaries record with
+thankful wonder, that many Areois were among their earliest and most
+zealous converts and steady adherents, and became hard-working and
+successful teachers and native missionaries, striving with their whole
+energy to counteract the evils in which they had hitherto been prime
+movers.
+
+Such being the associations connected with this most unattractive dance,
+it certainly is strange to read the regrets, expressed by various
+travellers, that the missionaries should have seen fit to discourage it,
+as if in so doing they had deprived the people of some delightful
+pleasure. It is a very different thing from the beautiful and artistic
+dances of Fiji, which the Wesleyan Mission have so wisely encouraged the
+people to retain, even at their school and church festivals.
+
+This afternoon was clear and bright, and the drive to the isthmus and
+then up the ridge was very beautiful. Part of the road lay through a
+real jungle of large orange-trees laden with ripe fruit. I need not say
+how we feasted; as did also herds of many pigs, that wander at large
+through these enchanting thickets, and find an ample supply of fruit
+which falls unheeded on the grass—true windfalls! It is from these
+groves that cargoes of several hundred thousand oranges are carried to
+San Francisco by every opportunity.
+
+Imagine the joy of some poor ragged-school child, whose one treat is an
+orange at Christmas, and whose home is in the slums of any of our
+horrible cities, could it but wake to find itself in this elysium. I
+remember Dr Guthrie’s ragged schools coming to spend one day at Winton
+Castle with dear old Lady Ruthven, and the teachers told me that there
+were many children present who had never before in their short lives set
+foot in the country. Would that they could all be transported for a
+while to the orange-groves of Tahiti!
+
+To-day we also passed some large vanilla plantations, in admirable
+order. The vanilla is a creeper, and is planted at the foot of some
+shady shrub, up which it climbs and twines among the branches. To
+economise labour and space, two crops are combined, by training the
+vanilla over either coffee-bushes or the vermilion-tree, which carries
+its bright seeds in small pods. The vanilla itself is a precarious crop,
+requiring much watchful care at each stage of its growth, which,
+however, it well repays, as it fetches four dollars per pound. Moreover,
+it is a fragrant harvest.
+
+This place is a military station; the French have a fort here, and some
+soldiers. I believe that political offenders are sent to Taravou to
+expiate their supposed misdeeds within its walls. M. de Damian,
+commandant of the fort, had provided comfortable quarters for the
+admiral and his party at his own house, and an excellent room was most
+kindly assigned to me. Marau and Ariiaue have gone on to another
+village, where we are to join them in the morning.
+
+The French soldiers here employ some of their leisure hours in the care
+of a garden, which rewards them with excellent vegetables and glorious
+roses. I had the delight of arranging delicious nosegays for the
+dinner-table this evening, and have a lovely bunch of roses now beside
+me.
+
+It is again raining heavily, but we rejoice thereat, for generally a
+deluge of rain at night is followed by a clear balmy morning, and all
+the lovely vegetation appears in its freshest glory.
+
+Now I must bid you good-night.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIV.
+THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI (_continued_)—FRENCH FORT AT TARAVOU—THE
+   PENINSULA—LIFE IN BIRD-CAGE HOUSES—TORCHLIGHT PROCESSION—RETURN TO
+                                PAPEETE.
+
+
+                                                 PUEU, _Thursday, 18th_.
+
+We woke this morning to find this beautiful world bathed in sunshine,
+and I slipped out for a lovely early stroll along the shore. There was a
+great calm, the sea literally without a ripple, reflecting the mellow
+tones of the sky. I followed a wide grass road passing through a cocoa
+plantation—luxuriant young palms of all ages, the ground beneath them
+carpeted with succulent grasses; a combination of fresh greens
+delightful to the eye. I think the heavy rain must have driven all the
+land-crabs out of their holes, for truly they were legion, and all were
+busily feeding, till, aware of a footstep, they darted back to their
+burrows. In some spots they clustered in such numbers that the whole
+bank seemed in motion. Some of these are as large as a good Scotch
+“parten;” but there are also a vast number of the tiny crab, with one
+large bright-coloured claw, which love the muddy shore at the mouth of
+the rivers, where you may see them by the thousand, feeding busily with
+a tiny claw while holding the large one before them as a shield.
+Evidently, however, they know discretion to be the better part of
+valour, for at the faintest movement which reveals the approach of
+danger they vanish into their mud-holes faster than the twinkling of an
+eye.
+
+Our morning halt was at Afaahiti, a small village of which the king
+himself is the chief, for which reason it had been arranged that he
+should sleep there last night. We found Marau and the ladies of the
+village stringing wreaths of sweet white blossoms, with which they
+crowned themselves and us; and then we all adjourned to breakfast in a
+bamboo house, decorated in the usual style with twisted and plaited
+leaves, and deep fringes of dyed fibre. _Himènes_, of course,—and then,
+while the band entertained the people, we, the unquiet spirits, wandered
+down to explore the shore, which is overshadowed by large trees, beneath
+which we found various kinds of large shells.
+
+At noon we drove on to Pueu, where we were welcomed by a very large
+assemblage, and conducted to the _cheferie_ or district hall, really a
+splendid room, with a beautiful floor: it is like a great ball-room. All
+the dining-tables were set at one end, while nine very pretty beds, with
+artistic crimson and white quilts, and mosquito-nets tied up with bright
+ribbons, were ranged down one side of the room. I am ashamed to say that
+we all took a most uncourteous fit of laughing; for really at the first
+glimpse the row of beds seemed to multiply, and we fancied we were all
+to occupy this one room; but we soon discovered that only the junior
+officers were to share it, and that excellent quarters had been prepared
+for us all in different houses. The best house of three rooms was
+assigned to the admiral, his son, and myself; and here I am now cosily
+ensconced for a chat with you. My room, which opens out into the
+verandah, has no doors, so my black waterproof sheet and the green
+tartan plaid, inseparable companion of all my wanderings east or west,
+act as good curtains.
+
+This is a lovely place. In the afternoon we roamed through fragrant
+orange-groves, and along the beautiful shore, and I managed to secure a
+sketch of the village. As a matter of course there is a large Protestant
+church, of which all the population are members, and a tiny Roman
+Catholic chapel, without any congregation.
+
+An exceedingly pretty banquet awaited us in the large _cheferie_, after
+which we strolled about in the lovely moonlight, while the village
+choirs sang their melodious _himènes_. At a very short distance they
+sound like full-toned cathedral chimes.
+
+                                              _Chez_ M. DAMIAN, TARAVOU,
+                                                  _Friday, 19th_.
+
+At grey dawn Queen Marau came to my room to early tea, and told me that
+the house which had been assigned to her and the king was so purely
+native, that they had no beds—only mats and pillows—no hardship in this
+delightful climate, but a curious distribution of hospitality, when to
+each young lieutenant had been assigned so luxuriant a couch.
+
+The drive along the peninsula was most lovely. Always by the broad green
+road running close to the sea, and passing through richest foliage of
+all sorts and forms; crossing crystalline streams which flowed down
+beautiful glens, with great shapely hills on either side, and some
+lonely peak towering at the head of the dark ravine. We came to one
+broad river whence the view was so lovely that the admiral most kindly
+decided to let one of the carriages wait while I sketched; an
+arrangement highly satisfactory to its occupants, who went off for a
+bathe in the clear delicious stream, while I stood on the bridge and
+worked diligently till the last of our heavy baggage-carts came across,
+and proved to be the last straw which that poor bridge could bear. An
+ominous crack, then a crash, and the heavy _fourgon_ had broken through
+the bridge, but happily rested on the strong cross timbers, and with
+infinite trouble it was unloaded and raised. Then the bridge had to be
+repaired, as we were to retrace the same road in the afternoon; when the
+other end gave way and broke down, happily without doing serious damage.
+
+A short drive brought us to Tautira, a large, very pretty village, where
+the men were playing at spear-throwing. This is the first place where we
+have seen any sort of game played. The admiral, according to his custom,
+inspected the schools, and pronounced a verdict not altogether
+encouraging on the work of a young priest, who was setting the children
+to such useful tasks as copying “mon âme est souillé de péchés!”[43] off
+a large black slate; they being almost as ignorant of French as he of
+Tahitian. The admiral discourages the teaching of French, especially to
+the girls, rightly judging that such knowledge will prove by no means to
+their moral weal.
+
+We were, as usual, most hospitably entertained with all the village
+could give, of fish and fruit, flesh and fowl. Everywhere those
+excellent white cray-fish, the _varo_, are our chief delicacy. Here and
+there pine-apples are produced, but they are very poor, probably
+uncultivated. The _himènes_ at Tautira were exceedingly pretty, and we
+left that pleasant “world’s end” with much regret. The carriage-road
+does not extend round the peninsula, so we had to return to the isthmus
+to start afresh. We reached Taravou in time for dinner, and found the
+roses beautiful as before.
+
+                                           IN A NATIVE HOUSE, TEAHAUPOO,
+                                               _Saturday, 20th_.
+
+Early this morning we were once more _en route_, and drove to the other
+side of the peninsula, which is, if possible, even lovelier than what we
+saw yesterday. Marau and the king had preceded us to the village of
+Vairao, where the ladies had employed the morning in preparing garlands
+of a white flower, like jessamine, with which they crowned us. This
+village is poor; so instead of receiving us in a fine district house,
+the people had erected very picturesque booths on three sides of a
+square. The chorus-singers were grouped on the grass in the centre,
+where were also heaped up the usual ceremonial offerings of fruit and
+pigs—apparently for show—as there is always an ample supply of food on
+the tables.
+
+Here, in addition to the usual vegetables, yams, and _taro_, sweet
+potatoes, bread-fruit, and _faees_ roasted in wood-ashes, we had
+calabashes of sticky _poi_, which is a preparation of ripe bread-fruit,
+greatly in favour with the natives, and which in old times was the
+principal food of this island, as it still is in Hawaii. I do not think
+it was ever used in the isles further west, where the bread-fruit is a
+very inferior tree to what it is in this, its native home. Most of the
+_poi_ which is consumed in Hawaii is made from _taro_, and is of a
+pinkish colour. Here _taro_ is the luxury, bread-fruit the staff of
+life, so it alone is used. When eaten fresh with milk it tastes rather
+like gooseberry-fool; but the natives prefer it fermented, and
+consequently sour.
+
+The pulpy fruit is first pounded with a stone pestle in a wooden bowl,
+till it attains the consistency of dough. It is then wrapped in leaves
+and baked in an earth-oven over red-hot stones. Finally, it is beaten up
+with water till it becomes a glutinous yellowish mass, indescribably
+sticky, and with a slightly acid flavour.
+
+To the initiated there is always a malicious pleasure in watching the
+undignified efforts of a new hand at dipping into this dish; for of
+course there are no spoons or forks in the question; and a stranger,
+seeing the neatness with which an experienced hand feeds himself, is apt
+to imagine that it is all plain sailing, and so plunges recklessly into
+this most adhesive paste, probably with the result of lifting the whole
+calabash, instead of the mouthful he expected. The correct method is to
+dip the forefinger of the right hand in the bowl, and as you draw it out
+smoothly coated with _poi_, give it a series of rapid twirls to prevent
+its hanging in glutinous strings; then with a final flourish, to keep it
+from dripping, land the finger in the mouth, and draw it back quite free
+from the paste, and ready to repeat the process. Two or more persons
+generally eat out of the same bowl, in which case they have cocoa-nut
+shells of fresh water beside them in which to wash their finger before
+dipping again in the _poi_; but it really does not much matter, as the
+preparation is so very sticky that you must of necessity appropriate
+every particle you touch, so you and your neighbour are in no danger of
+exchanging atoms! as you would be, in sharing a bowl of well-chewed
+_kava_.
+
+That beverage of the isles did not appear at this native feast; in fact
+I have never seen it in Tahiti, and suppose it must have died out before
+the superior attractions of orange-rum and similar decoctions. On the
+present occasion, cocoa-nuts were the only drink, with the exception of
+pure water. As regards the latter, I was much struck by an ingenious
+substitute for water-jars. At every supporting post of the booths was
+fastened an upright bamboo, perhaps twelve feet in length, and pierced
+from end to end, only the lowest joint being left intact. Here a spigot
+was introduced, and the bamboo being filled with water, supplied drink
+for all the thirsty multitude. As drinking-cups, the people here still
+use cocoa-nut cups, scraped very thin and polished by constant friction
+on a stone in water, till they become as light, and almost as
+transparent, as tortoise-shell. The _himènes_ here were the prettiest we
+have yet heard, and you can understand that we are by this time quite
+connoisseurs in this peculiar music. The _Upa-upa_ was danced with
+unusual zest, but was none the less ungraceful.
+
+Another most exquisite drive brought us to Teahaupoo, where we wandered
+about, lost in admiration, while the king and the admiral were
+undergoing the usual official speeches. The feast this evening was
+rather dull, being spread along one side of a very long and dimly
+lighted table. Of course we always require artificial light for dinner,
+as, in the tropics, the sun sets all the year round at about six
+o’clock, rising at about the same hour in the morning. We often think
+enviously of your long summer twilight. But then, on the other hand, we
+have no short, dark, winter days. Again to-night the _himène_ singing
+was unusually fascinating. It varies much, and the most charming glees
+are those which are most suggestive of musical chimes.
+
+Queen Marau offered me quarters in the large native house awarded to her
+and Ariiaue. It consisted of one large room without divisions,
+containing several good beds, with the usual pretty bright quilts and
+mosquito-nets. We curtained off one end of the room for the king and an
+old chief, and they are now sleeping peacefully, as we should also be
+doing—so good-night.
+
+                                                TARAVOU, _Sunday, 21st_.
+
+Being a light sleeper, I was awakened long before dawn by hearing
+Ariiaue and his companion astir, and soon after 4 A.M. they started for
+Afaahiti, the king’s own village. The rain was pouring in a pitiless,
+relentless fashion; and beat in beneath the wide eaves against the open
+walls of our bird-cage house. Still we would fain have stayed where we
+were, and reluctantly obeyed the order to be _en voiture_ at seven
+o’clock, to return to the isthmus. The rain never ceased, and all the
+beauty which gladdened us yesterday was invisible. Only sheets of grey
+drifting cloud, and dripping trees, dripping carriages, horses, and
+umbrellas. We left Marau at Afaahiti, while we drove on to these now
+familiar quarters, where I have the luxury of a large, good room. Of
+course we all arrived soaked, and have spent the day in trying to get
+dry. I think most of the gentlemen have managed a few hours of sleep.
+
+                                IN THE CHEFERIE, MAHAENA, _Monday, 22d_.
+
+An early drive brought us to Hitiaa, the house of little Hinoi’s mother,
+the pretty young widow of the Prince de Joinville. Everything here was
+very gracefully done, and the festival as purely native as possible.
+Here the severity of Court mourning was not mitigated, and all the women
+wore crowns of fibre dyed black, which looked very sombre.
+
+Immediately after breakfast we started for Mahaena, preceded by a party
+of six or eight picturesque lancers, who had formed part of old Queen
+Pomare’s body-guard. They added a pleasant feature to the beautiful
+scenery as they rode along the green glades, through the usual
+successions of glorious foliage;—groves of magnificent bread-fruit
+trees, indigenous to those isles; next a clump of noble mango-trees,
+recently imported, but now quite at home; then a group of tall palms, or
+a long avenue of gigantic bananas, their leaves, sometimes twelve feet
+long, meeting over our heads. Then came patches of sugar or Indian corn,
+and next a plantation of vanilla, trained to climb over closely planted
+tall coffee, or else over vermilion-bushes. Sometimes it is planted,
+without more ado, at the root of pruned guava bushes. These grow wild
+over the whole country, loaded with large, excellent fruit, and,
+moreover, supply the whole fuel of the isles, and good food for cattle.
+They are all self-sown,—descendants of a few plants introduced as garden
+fruit trees,—and now they have overrun the isles and are looked upon by
+the planters as a curse, because of the rapidity and tenacity with which
+they take possession of any patch of neglected land. Yet a plant which
+so generously yields food for man and beast, and abundant fuel, is
+surely not altogether evil! Amongst all this wealth of food-producing
+vegetation, I sometimes looked in vain for any trees that were merely
+ornamental; and literally there were only the yellow hybiscus, which
+yields the useful fibre, and the candle-nut, covered with clusters of
+white blossoms, somewhat resembling white lilac, and bearing nuts with
+oily kernels, whence the tree derives its name.
+
+The method of manufacturing candles from candle-nuts is delightfully
+simple. First the nuts are lightly baked, to render their very hard
+shell more brittle; the kernels are thus obtained whole, and a hole
+being bored in each, about a dozen are strung together on the mid-rib of
+a palm-leaf, which acts as the wick, and the oily nuts, each the size of
+a walnut, burn slowly with a dim light and oppressive smell.
+
+On our arrival here, we were met by a messenger from Papeete, announcing
+an outbreak of a serious form of influenza, from which the king’s aunt
+died this morning. This is a great grief to the royal brothers, who at
+once started to attend her funeral. Ties of family affection appear to
+be very strong in Tahiti, and this sad news has cast a gloom on
+everything. It is very grievous for our hosts, who had made their
+preparations with great care, and were looking forward to this
+opportunity of testifying their loyalty.
+
+The river here is lovely. Marau and I bathed together, and I spent the
+afternoon sketching. During the evening _himènes_, we all sat in
+pleasant groups on the shore, or strolled along to the mouth of the
+river. For our night quarters, this large district house has been
+divided by temporary screens, charmingly decorated with quaintly knotted
+palm-leaves and tree-ferns. I share one of these divisions with the
+queen, the admiral and his son occupy the next, and all the other
+gentlemen have disposed of themselves at the further end.
+
+                                                PAPENOO, _Tuesday, 23d_.
+
+Last night, for the first time, we were all devoured by fleas, and a
+chorus of aggravation arose from all sides of the pretty _cheferie_.
+Everything was beautifully clean, so we attribute the presence of these
+unwelcome intruders to the fact that the hay, which is always laid as a
+carpet on the wooden floor, must have been too old.
+
+We all compared notes of distress over our morning coffee—then, as
+usual, forgot all save the beauty of the scenery as we drove along the
+shore to Tiarei, where a temporary avenue of _faees_, or wild banana,
+had been planted with infinite trouble and at a great sacrifice of fine
+fruit-bearing plants. The peculiarity of the _faees_[44] is, that
+instead of carrying its huge cluster of fruit pendent, beneath its broad
+leaves, it carries it upright in the centre. The _faees_ invariably grow
+in the most inaccessible ravines and crevices of the rock; so it must
+have been a troublesome task to carry these down, without injury to the
+large delicate leaves.
+
+We were welcomed by a large family of chiefs, and specially by a kind
+old lady, who kissed us all on both cheeks, down to M. Hardouin, A.D.C.,
+when Marau’s untimely laughter stopped her proceeding to the remaining
+eighteen officers! Though the absence of the king must have made it
+rather flat for the chiefs, the official speeches were made to the
+admiral, and the _himènes_ sung as usual.
+
+Then followed a most lovely drive, the road cut along the face of
+basaltic cliffs, and here we are close to another very fine river, which
+of course implies pleasant bathing and sketching. This evening we had a
+delightful stroll along the shore, the wavelets breaking on a pebbly
+beach. At the last moment, the moon rose glorious from the sea—a vision
+of great beauty.
+
+We are very comfortably housed to-night in the chief’s own house. Marau
+and I occupy one end, and his family have the other.
+
+                          _Chez_ REV. JAMES GREEN, PAPEETE, _Oct. 25th_.
+
+Late last night we returned to headquarters, and I to this pleasant
+nest, very glad of the prospect of a few days’ rest. Yesterday was a
+long day, for I was out sketching with the first ray of light, and
+worked till it was time to start for the Haapepe district, of which the
+king’s brother, Terii Tapunui is chief. He is distressingly lame, but is
+a very good fellow, with a particularly nice wife, a cousin of the
+charming Moë. She is noted for her skill in making pretty hats. They
+received us at Point Venus, so called because Captain Cook thence
+observed the transit of Venus in 1769.
+
+Pomare and Tamatoa rejoined the party after returning from their aunt’s
+funeral; and the three brothers spent the afternoon together by
+themselves—a wise course, as Tamatoa had striven so hard to drown his
+grief, that he had attained a jocose-beatific condition, very annoying
+to the king, who all this time has been a model of sobriety, greatly to
+the delight of the admiral.
+
+This quiet little village presents the usual anomaly of a very large
+Roman Catholic church without a congregation, standing close to the
+original congregational church. The latter is a large cool building, in
+which I gladly took refuge to escape from noise and heat; for several
+friends who had driven down from Papeete to meet us, were so delighted
+to find a smooth carpet, that they commenced dancing immediately after
+late breakfast, and kept it up merrily all the afternoon.
+
+When the heat began to subside I found my way to the great lighthouse,
+where the French officials were most obliging, and did the honours of
+their lofty tower with all courtesy. From the summit there is a grand
+view of mountains, including Orofena, which is the highest point of
+Tahiti—height 7336 feet. At our feet lay the village, concealed by a sea
+of waving palms, only their crowns visible, and rippling like running
+water as the light breeze passed over them. It was a splendid
+sketching-point, and I held my ground till a party of the dancers came
+to summon me to the banquet.
+
+Then followed as pretty a scene as I have ever witnessed. We had to
+drive twelve miles to Papeete; and as the nights are dark, and the moon
+was not due till towards midnight, we knew that torches would be
+required—but only expected the necessary number. The Tahitians had,
+however, resolved on a demonstration, to show their appreciation of the
+course adopted by the admiral, and their gratitude for his sympathy. So
+when we had toiled up a long steep hill, about three miles from Point
+Venus, we were met by a company of stalwart men carrying blazing torches
+of cocoa-palm leaves, about twelve feet long. These turned and preceded
+us, their numbers receiving continual reinforcements, some on horseback,
+some on foot, till they mustered fully a thousand, and the ruddy glare
+of the torches illumined the rich masses of foliage, gleaming on the
+glossy leaves of the bread-fruit, and the bright sword-like fronds of
+the palms, while the lurid smoke lent something of cloudy mystery to the
+whole. Add to this, the presence of all the inhabitants, who of course
+poured out from every bird-cage cottage along the road and joined the
+procession, adding their quota of mirth and chatter to the general
+hubbub. Of course with so many walkers we could only progress at a
+foot’s pace, and nine miles of this at last became somewhat bewildering;
+it seemed as if we were moving in a strange dream. A party of native
+drummers added their very trying “music” to the general noise; but
+happily the band fell into the spirit of the thing, and though their
+afternoon’s work fully entitled them to rest, they played at intervals
+all the way.
+
+At the outskirts of the town there was a halt, and in obedience to
+municipal regulations every torch was extinguished, and we entered the
+ill-lighted town in almost complete darkness. It was a wise precaution,
+however, as the air was full of flying sparks, and a conflagration would
+make short work of the dry wooden houses. Happily the large crowd was
+quiet and orderly; and so far as I am aware, I myself am the only
+sufferer from that half-hour’s darkness, during which my beloved green
+plaid was abstracted from the bundle in which I had placed it. I think I
+know the thief—at least I have the strongest reason to suspect a
+half-caste, in no way connected with Tahiti, save by residence. But I
+fear there is not the slightest hope of ever recovering it. It was a
+large green plaid, of “Black Watch” tartan, which has been my
+inseparable companion and delight for many a year, and in many a strange
+place. I have slept in it on the top of Adam’s Peak, and in the
+wonderful jungle cities of Ceylon, and it has travelled to the remotest
+corners of Australasia and Polynesia, and many and varied are its
+associations with people and things.
+
+                     “Oh, my plaid was dear to me!”
+
+and deeply do I abhor the covetous thief who has robbed me, so
+infinitely beyond the value of a few fathoms of tartan;
+
+                      “For we cannot buy with gold
+                      The old associations.”
+
+Quite a number of the neighbours have called here to-day, and welcomed
+me back as if I were an old friend returning from a long journey. There
+is a cordiality and a heartiness about them all, which is truly
+delightful. How different from a return to England after a few years’
+absence, when the people you had supposed to be intimate friends vaguely
+ask you “if you haven’t been somewhere abroad?” and perhaps, if they are
+unusually hospitable, invite you to luncheon the following week!
+
+                                                         _Friday, 26th._
+
+This morning Narii Salmon took me on board the Seignelay to see my old
+friends and my old quarters. They welcomed me back most heartily, and
+seemed really glad that I had seen the isle to such advantage—but they
+themselves were all dull and sad. Time has as yet done nothing to heal
+their grief, and indeed the ship seems altogether changed, even
+externally, for she has been painted white, to match La Magicienne.
+
+I returned with Narii to breakfast with his sister, Mrs Brander; there
+we were joined by the admiral, who came to make arrangements with her
+for the next part of the programme; for she is as sensible as she is
+handsome, which is saying much, and her opinions and suggestions carry
+great weight with every one.
+
+Already preparations are being made for another grand expedition, for
+there are several lesser isles subject to the king of Tahiti; and next
+week the Seignelay is to convey the king and queen and their party to
+Moorea, the beautiful island which we passed on the morning of our
+arrival in Tahiti, and of which Mrs Brander is the high chiefess.
+
+I hear that there is a chance of letters being despatched by some
+vessel, so I may as well close this.... Your loving sister.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XV.
+         THE SEMAPHORE—IMMUTABLE TIDES—THE CORAL-REEF—SPEARING
+FISH—NETTING—CATCHING SHARKS—A ROYAL MAUSOLEUM—SUPERSTITIONS OF EAST AND
+  WEST—CENTIPEDES—INTOXICATING DRINKS—INFLUENZA—DEATH OF MRS SIMPSON.
+
+
+                               _Chez_ THE REV. JAMES GREEN, _Oct. 27th_.
+
+I have had a day after my own heart. In the early morning Mr Green drove
+me to the foot of the semaphore hill, up which I toiled, and gave myself
+into the care of the old sailor who lives there, watching the horizon
+for the first glimpse of a sail, and then hoists signals by which the
+good folk of Papeete learn from what direction the new-comer may be
+expected. Then, as she draws nearer, the signals reveal her class and
+her nationality.
+
+I remained for several hours, working up an elaborate drawing, begun
+soon after my arrival. The view of the town and harbour, as seen from
+this point, is truly lovely, and the effect of a coral-reef, as you look
+down on it from a height, is always fascinating. Every conceivable tint
+seems to play beneath the surface—browns and golds blending with pale
+aqua-marine and sparkling emerald, while turquoise and cerulean pass
+into delicate lilac and purply blue. The reef appears from the semaphore
+to lie in the form of a horse-shoe, so that it literally suggests a
+rainbow beneath the waters.
+
+By the time Mr Green came to drive me back to breakfast, I was truly
+glad to escape from the blazing sun, and to rest in this pleasant home
+during the hot hours.
+
+Late in the afternoon Narii lent us a boat, in which we rowed out to the
+reef, always to me one of the most enchanting ploys that can be
+conceived; and here it gains an additional charm from an extraordinary
+phenomenon in the tides, which I am told occurs throughout the Society
+Isles, but in no other place that I ever heard of—namely, that they
+never vary from one year’s end to another. Day after day they ebb and
+flow with unchanging regularity. At noonday and at midnight the tide is
+invariably at the full; while at sunrise and sunset—in other words, at
+six o’clock morning and evening—throughout the year, it is low water.
+The rise and fall rarely exceeds two feet; but periodically, at an
+interval of about six months, a mighty sea comes rolling in from the
+west or south-west, and, sweeping over the reef, bursts violently on the
+shore.
+
+I do not know whether any scientific theory has been propounded
+concerning this tidal eccentricity, which is perhaps the most remarkable
+thing connected with the group.
+
+I believe some writers have tried to account for it by reference to the
+trade-winds, which blow so steadily at certain hours of the day; but
+these must have been very inaccurate observers, as the tides rise and
+fall with equal regularity in the most sultry calm or the most riotous
+sea-breeze. In fact they are sometimes rather higher in dead calms, and
+on the leeward side of the isles, which are sheltered from the
+trade-winds. In any case, these blow only in the daytime, and die away
+entirely at night. Curiously enough, they do not even affect the
+periodical flood-tides, or rather tidal waves, of which I spoke just
+now, as these invariably come from the westward, whereas the trade-winds
+blow steadily from the east. So punctual is the daily rise and fall of
+the tides, that the accustomed eyes of the people can discern the hour
+of the day by a glance at the shore or the reef, as at a marine
+chronometer, which here never loses or gains time.
+
+The peculiar charm of this, as concerns the reef, is that the low tide,
+which is the hour of delight, always occurs at the coolest hours of
+morning and evening, so there is no temptation to incur sunstroke by
+exposure to the noontide rays. And the reef at Tahiti is, beyond all
+question, the richest I have seen. It seems to me that all the marvels
+of the Fijian reef are here reproduced on a magnified scale—the
+mysterious zoophytes are larger, their colours more intense, the forms
+of the fish more varied and eccentric, and their scaly dress striped and
+zigzagged with patterns like those on an ingenious clown, or perhaps
+suggestive of quaint heraldry.
+
+To-night I saw some gigantic specimens of that wonderful star-fish we
+first found in Fiji, with fifteen arms covered with very sharp grey and
+orange spines like those of an echinus, and an underside of pale-yellow
+fleshy feelers with suckers like those of the sea-anemone[45]—a
+marvellously uncanny-looking compound. I also saw thousands of prickly
+sea-urchins of divers sorts, from the heavy acrocladia,[46] with spikes
+as large as your fingers and heavy as stone, to the very brittle species
+no larger than a pigeon’s egg, and covered with piercing needles five or
+six inches long—a particularly unpleasant creature to step upon,
+especially with bare feet, as the natives have. These echini are of all
+colours, from the richest maroon and claret to purple and blue. Some are
+suggestive of large full-blown thistles, and all more or less resemble
+hedgehogs or porcupines. One very delicate flat kind is pure white, and
+marked on the back with a very finely traced double star.
+
+Some of the water-snakes are very beautifully marked with blue, gold, or
+green bars on a velvety black ground; they glide and coil themselves in
+and out of the coral branches. I was much struck by the immense size of
+some sea-anemones, as large as a wash-hand basin: these also, are of all
+sorts of colours. These are the chosen play-fellows of most exquisite
+tiny fish, like morsels of black velvet, with a pattern exactly like a
+fairy peacock’s feather on either gill. Not one of these exceeded two
+inches in length; and I watched a shoal of about thirty playing
+hide-and-seek among the feelers of the polype. You can hardly conceive
+anything so fascinating as the glimpses of fairyland to be obtained by
+allowing your boat to float at will in the shallowest possible water,
+while you peer down into the wonder-world beneath you, where the
+many-tinted corals, seaweeds, and zoophytes, form wonderful gardens, of
+which the brilliant blue star-fish, and strangely beautiful
+sea-anemones, are the gay blossoms.
+
+The butterflies which woo these flowers of the sea are shoals of the
+most exquisite minute fishes, which dart through the crystal water like
+rays of opal. Now it is a group of turquoise blue, like forget-me-nots
+of the deep, and as they vanish among green seaweeds, out flash a merry
+party primrose-coloured. Then come a little family of richest Albert
+blue, which pause a moment to greet their little friends the pure
+gold-fish; and as these glide in between the rock-ledges, up swims a
+joyous little shoal of delicate pale-green fish, with perhaps a tiny
+silvery eel or two; and some there are pure scarlet, others bright blue
+streaked with scarlet. These and a thousand more, varying in form as in
+colour, but all alike minute, are among the tempting beauties which make
+me always wish you were with me, that I might hear your raptures of
+delight.
+
+There are some most attractive gold-fish with broad bands of black,
+which terminate in wing-like fins; and others, still more fascinating,
+are silvery, with a delicate rosy flush. Some are yellow, striped with
+violet; others are pure scarlet, spotted with cobalt. I think my
+favourites are bright turquoise blue with a gold collar. Then there are
+some very large fish of the glossiest green, and others of a dazzling
+crimson. But the most _distingué_-looking fishes are those which temper
+their gay colours with bands or zigzags of black velvet. Their forms are
+as varied as their colours, long or short, round, flat, or triangular.
+
+While these flash and dart in and out of their forest sanctuary, you may
+see large shells travelling over the coral-ledges, a good deal faster
+than you would suppose possible, till you see that they are tenanted by
+large hermit-crabs. Other crabs are in their own lawful shells, as are
+also the wary lobsters; and here and there are scattered some rare
+shells, such as we see in collections at home, and suppose to be quite
+common in the tropics, where, however, as a rule, they are only obtained
+by professional divers. Of course such as are washed up on the shore are
+dead shells, utterly worthless.
+
+Quite apart from the mere delight to the eyes of gazing at these varied
+beauties, the reef has its useful aspect in regard to the commissariat.
+At every low tide a crowd of eager fishers repair thither, to see what
+manner of supper awaits them.
+
+Here, as in all these isles where wild animals do not exist, the sea
+furnishes the happy hunting-grounds of rich and poor. Swift canoes or
+boats take the place of hounds and horses; and the coral-reef affords as
+much delight to high and low, as a Scotch deer-forest or heathery moor
+does to the wealthy few in Britain.
+
+Can you not fancy the thrilling excitement of standing on the brink of
+the reef watching the huge green billows rolling in with thunder roar,
+and curling their grand white crests ere dashing on the rock in
+cataracts of foam, carrying with them many a strange creature of the
+deep? For these the fisherman keeps keen watch, standing with spear all
+ready poised to strike whatever may come within his reach. But more
+exciting still is the fishing by torchlight on the dark moonless nights,
+when a torch made of dried reeds is carried in one hand, and the spear
+in the other, ready to strike the unwary fish, attracted by the glare.
+Small fish are caught with a different sort of spear, consisting of six
+or eight metal rods lashed to a long stick; when this is dexterously
+plunged into a shoal, some fish are pretty sure to be pinched and held
+firm.
+
+Very often large parties go together to the reef, each bearing a flaming
+torch, and sometimes they fish for eels in the rivers in the same way.
+In either case the effect is most picturesque. I have seen the shallow
+lagoon just inside the reef all illuminated by these flashing lights,
+which tell where the canoes are gliding, and just reveal the statuesque
+figures at the prow, with uplifted torch and spear all ready poised:
+grand studies in bronze, as perfect models as sculptor could desire, and
+rich bits of colour for the artist who can render the warm ruddy glow,
+reflected by a well-oiled brown skin, with a background of dark sea and
+sky.
+
+At other times the sport lies in some form of netting. A whole company
+of women assemble, laughing and chattering as only South Sea Islanders
+can. Perhaps a dozen are told off to carry a great net, which they sink
+when up to their necks in water; then forming a wide semicircle, they
+gradually approach the shore, lifting their net so as not to tear it on
+the rough coral-bed, and driving as many fish as they can enclose
+towards the shallow water, whence they can scoop them up in their little
+baskets, which they empty into larger ones slung from the waist. In this
+way myriads of tiny silvery fish are caught.
+
+Sometimes the men adopt this method of driving larger fish into shallow
+water, and then spear them in the way I have just described. The best
+marksmen stand a little apart, watching keenly for any fish that may
+escape the net, and throwing their spears at such fugitives with almost
+unerring aim. It is a scene of immense excitement; and the fun of the
+sport is enhanced by the prospect of an abundant supper. For this sort
+of fishing seine-nets are made, 100 feet in length; or else several
+large nets, about 40 feet long by 12 deep, are joined together so as to
+enclose a very wide space.
+
+Women carry small fine casting-nets in the hand, and throw them so
+dexterously as often to enclose a whole shoal of little fishes; some
+kinds are no bigger than whitebait. For larger fish, akin to herrings
+and salmon, various nets are made of different fibres, such as the
+hybiscus, banyan, or pandanus bark or flax, the two latter being the
+strongest and most durable. Sometimes two nets are thrown at the same
+time—an inner net with fine mesh, and an outer one much coarser—to
+resist any larger fish which might break through the inner one. They
+were weighted by stones wrapped in cocoa-nut fibre, and the floats are
+made of hybiscus-wood, which is found to be very buoyant. When the nets
+are brought ashore, they are hung up to dry on the trees and shrubs.
+
+Nowadays the ordinary hooks of commerce have almost superseded the
+clumsy but efficacious hooks of pearl-shell or bone. Those used in
+fishing for dolphin or bonitos were formerly attached to a
+mother-of-pearl shank, about six inches long, carved to resemble a fish.
+Excellent wooden hooks were also made by twisting the young roots of the
+casuarina or iron-wood tree, and leaving them till they had grown to a
+suitable size. In old days, when sharks were considered a delicacy, they
+were beguiled by large wooden hooks from twelve to fifteen inches in
+length. Cuttle-fish are attracted by a bait very much resembling that
+used in Fiji, where an imitation of a rat is made of cowrie-shells. I do
+not know whether the Tahitians have a similar legend of the enmity
+between the rat and the cuttle-fish. Here the cowrie-shells are cut into
+pieces, and fastened one over another like the scales of an armadillo,
+and so made into an oval ball the size of a rat. This being attached to
+a strong line, is lowered from a canoe, and gently jerked so as to move
+like a living creature. The cuttle-fish, which lies safely ensconced in
+some hole in the rocks, throws out a long arm and lassoes its prey, the
+plated armour giving it a firmer grip. Failing to draw in this unknown
+variety of rat, it throws out another arm, and yet another, till at
+length it slips out of its stronghold, and is drawn to the surface,
+holding its prize firmly enlaced.
+
+It is not “all fish that comes to the net” in these seas. Many which are
+wholesome at one season are downright poison during the months when the
+coral is said to be in “blossom;” during which time these fish crunch it
+with their strong teeth. Others become poisonous by feeding on
+sea-centipedes—curious creatures which twine themselves round the coral,
+and resemble yards of black string with myriad tiny legs. There are
+certain fish which may be eaten with impunity on one isle, and are
+positively deadly if caught on other reefs. The natives themselves have
+sometimes died by rashly trusting to their experience of their own
+fishing-grounds, and so venturing to eat the identical fish caught
+elsewhere. There are also certain sea-crabs which it is very unsafe to
+eat. Curiously enough, all varieties of land-crab are said to be good
+for food; but there is a white-shelled sea-crab which generally proves
+fatal, and is sometimes eaten as a means of committing suicide.
+
+Even shell-collectors have to be wary how they handle the treasures they
+discover, as there are certain shell-fish which are armed with minute
+barbs, through which they inject virulent poison into the hand that
+touches them. The most dangerous of these is a beautiful cone,[47] which
+has been known to cause death within a few hours. No sooner is it
+touched than a thrill of sharp pain flies up to the shoulder, and soon
+the body swells to an enormous size, and the hapless sufferer dies in
+agony.
+
+Do you remember a somewhat similar case—though happily it did not prove
+fatal—which occurred on our own shores, when Mr Hope G—— incautiously
+picked up a large jelly-fish, which so poisoned his blood that weeks of
+torture ensued? These beautiful sea-thistles (sea-nettles rather) are
+not to be touched with impunity.
+
+The men engaged in the _bêche-de-mer_ fisheries find that those hideous
+gelatinous slugs which appear so very helpless, are also capable of
+inflicting severe pain. They resemble great sausages of dark-coloured
+india-rubber, black, grey, red, or greenish, inflated with sea-water.
+When touched, they eject this water with some violence, and if it falls
+on any wound or scratch it produces dangerous and agonising
+inflammation. The smallest drop squirted into the eye causes intolerable
+burning pain; and many of the tripang-fishers have their sight seriously
+injured from this cause.
+
+But more noxious by far is the olive-green variety, which is commonly
+called the leopard, from being marked with orange-coloured spots. When
+this creature is touched it throws up glutinous filaments like
+darning-cotton, which not only adhere tenaciously to whatever they
+touch, but if they come in contact with the human skin, they instantly
+raise a painful burning blister and cause serious inflammation. Such
+being the case, it would appear discreet to leave these ugly creatures
+unmolested; but as they are accounted a great delicacy in China, and
+fetch from £80 to £100 per ton, the risk is considered worth incurring.
+
+Another serious danger of the reef arises from the various voracious
+sea-eels, which coil themselves up in the interstices of the coral and
+dart out to seize any prey which comes within reach. I was severely
+bitten myself one day while incautiously feeling for small fish; but
+many natives have thus been maimed for life, the loss of a few fingers
+being a comparative trifle. I heard of one man in the Paumotu Isles who
+had the whole calf of his leg bitten off by a _vaaroa_, or long-mouthed
+eel, a reptile which attains a length of eight feet or more, and roams
+about the reef seeking what it may devour. It was formerly an object of
+worship, in common with the conger-eel; and bloody vengeance has on more
+than one occasion been taken by the heathen on such of their Christian
+neighbours as have presumed to eat this incarnate god.
+
+About fifteen years ago, a party of about eighty persons reached Samoa,
+after drifting over the wide seas for several weeks. They had been
+driven away from the isle of Fakaofa, where several of their number had
+been killed in consequence of having eaten congereels, which the people
+of that isle held in reverence. Another fish-deity was the octopus,
+which in heathen days it would have been sacrilege to eat, but which is
+now recognised as excellent food. I have never tasted one myself, but I
+am told that, though it looks so gelatinous, it really is tough and
+unpalatable.
+
+The girls catch delicate young cuttle-fish in the shallows on the reef;
+but sometimes the tables are turned and they are themselves caught by
+overgrown monsters, which lie concealed in deep holes in the coral, and
+throw out long arms covered with suckers, with which they grasp whatever
+lies within reach and drag it inward. Some of these measure fully six
+feet across the arms, from tip to tip; and many horrible stories are
+current among the fishers of their adventures with these hideous
+devil-fish. So fully do they recognise the possibility of danger, that
+they rarely go out alone to dive for these, or for clam-shells.
+
+The latter have been known to close suddenly, and hold the invader
+prisoner till he or she was drowned; and the octopii have an unpleasant
+knack of throwing their arms so as to enfold an enemy, who vainly
+struggles to extricate himself from their hateful clasp: his arms are
+held powerless, and sometimes the hideous creature wraps itself round
+his head, so that death is inevitable unless haply his comrade comes to
+the rescue.
+
+These fishers know the value of pouring oil on the waters as well as the
+poachers on our own Scottish rivers, or the oyster-fishers at Gibraltar
+and the Mediterranean generally, so they invariably carry in their
+canoes a measure of cocoa-nut oil. By sprinkling a few drops on the
+surface of the water, it becomes so perfectly smooth that they can see
+right down through its crystal depths, and detect the exact position of
+the creatures below. So, when a diver remains under water longer than
+usual, his friend in the canoe thus clears the surface, and, peering
+into the depths, ascertains what is going on, and, if need be, dives to
+the rescue.
+
+Of course these are not the only dangers encountered by the fishers.
+There is the ever-abiding dread of sharks, especially the awful white
+shark, which grows to about thirty feet in length, and is so fearless
+that it is frequently known to attack canoes and drag its victims into
+the water, either by seizing some carelessly outstretched limb or by
+overturning the canoe. It is a hideous animal, with gigantic mouth and
+with broad serrated teeth. I saw an enormous specimen hanging from the
+bows of a vessel which was lying at anchor in the harbour.
+
+Even the small lagoon shark is not a pleasant fellow-swimmer, though it
+rarely exceeds six feet in length. It ventures into very shallow water,
+but makes its home in caves in the coral, in company with its kinsman.
+In all these isles it is considered good food; and in many of the groups
+(notably the New Hebrides and the Hervey Isles) the bold fishermen
+actually dive into the shark-caverns, contrive to pass a slip-knot round
+the tail of one of the sleepers, and instantly rise to the surface, when
+their companions haul the ugly monster, tail first, into the canoe,
+hitting him on the head with all possible speed. You can quite
+understand that this sort of fishing is by no means child’s-play.
+Sometimes, when a diver has entered a cave, a shark will move so as to
+prevent his exit, and then his only chance of ever returning to the
+surface lies in the skill with which he can tickle or stroke the
+monster, so as to induce it to move aside. Of course he only dares to do
+this if the creature’s tail is towards him. Should it have turned the
+other way, his fate is almost inevitably sealed, as the slightest
+movement on his part would reveal his presence and consign him to the
+shark’s maw; and on the other hand, though he is himself wellnigh
+amphibious, a delay of a few seconds must cost his life.
+
+One of the most unpleasant inmates of these waters is the stingaree or
+sting-ray, which is a large flat fish, the spine of which is prolonged
+to a sharp, barbed point, serrated on both sides. The swimmer who
+unluckily comes in contact with this weapon receives a dangerous wound,
+as the point probably breaks into his flesh, and works its way inward
+with every breath he draws.
+
+Even the globe-fish is an uncomfortable neighbour. It is the hedgehog of
+the sea, covered with sharp horny spikes. It possesses the curious
+faculty of filling itself with air till it becomes a perfect ball, of
+the consistency of oiled parchment. Verily, those denizens of the deep
+are strange!
+
+                                                        _Tuesday, 30th._
+
+This morning, after a pleasant breakfast with Mrs Brander, M. Vernier
+called for me in his pony-phaeton, and we drove to visit Queen Pomare’s
+tomb, or rather the house in which the royal dead of Tahiti are laid,
+and left for a while, till only bones and dust remain. Then a specially
+appointed official goes at dead of night and secretly carries the
+remains to some place—probably a cave in the mountains—where they are
+safely buried; only a very few trusted old adherents being allowed to
+know where they are laid. The mausoleum is a hideous little house,
+standing on a bare grass lawn by the sea. Till recently it was
+surrounded by a fine old grove of sacred casuarina trees; but one
+unlucky day Ariiaue was short of money (cruel report says of brandy!),
+and he actually sold the venerated trees to some Goth, who cut them for
+common timber.
+
+I fancy that the jealous mystery which enshrouds the final burial of
+royal bones may be traced to lingering traditions of witchcraft, or some
+kindred superstition connected with the ancient system of _taboo_, which
+prevailed throughout Polynesia, and entailed divers diseases, and even
+death, on those who rashly tampered with things belonging to high
+chiefs. The other day a man walked past this door carrying a bunch of
+roses. Mrs Green was going to take one, when a half-caste Tahitian cried
+out, “Oh, take care! they were gathered in the garden of ——,” naming
+some one related to the royal family. I then learnt that to take
+anything belonging to royalty, or to wear a garment that has been worn
+by any of them, or even to lie on their bed, or rest the head on their
+pillow, is supposed to produce king’s evil. So implicit is this belief
+among the older generation, that Queen Pomare always made up bundles of
+her old clothes and sent them to sea to be sunk outside the reef.
+
+The cure for any person supposed to have incurred danger in this manner
+savours of the celebrated prescription in hydrophobia, “Swallow a hair
+of the dog that bit you.” The old queen was greatly attached to one of
+Mrs Green’s little boys, whom, after the curious fashion of this
+country, she called her adopted son, giving him a Tahitian name, by
+which alone he was known to the natives. One day, after the boy had been
+much with the queen, a suspicious-looking spot broke out on his cheek,
+and the native attendants begged Mrs Green to go at once to the queen
+and ask her to take the child into bed with her, and cover him up, which
+would avert all danger.[48]
+
+This afternoon, for the first time since I landed, I have seen a
+centipede—not one, but many, which were lying quietly hidden beneath a
+mass of decaying fronds of the cocoa-palm. We put one in a bottle; but
+though a large specimen for the Pacific, it is barely six inches in
+length. These isles of the blest enjoy a perfect immunity from all
+venomous creatures, with this one exception; and it is a very innocent
+creature compared with the centipedes of other lands, especially of
+Africa and South America. Unfortunately the latter have lately been
+carried by foreign ships to some of the Leeward Isles, and in the same
+manner scorpions have been brought to Tahiti—a very unfortunate
+introduction. The centipedes, small as they are, can give an agonising
+bite, which, however, is not actually dangerous to human beings. They
+are chiefly fatal to poultry, especially turkeys, which swallow them in
+mistake for worms, and invariably die soon afterwards.
+
+These horrid creatures are highly phosphorescent, and leave a trail of
+light as they move at night. If crushed, they emit a glow of light, and
+hence were in olden days reverenced as an incarnation of divinity; and
+Veri, the centipede-god, was worshipped at Mangai, in the Hervey Isles,
+where a huge banyan-tree overshadowed his _marae_, among the grey rocks,
+and where to this day some say that gigantic centipedes keep guard over
+the hidden treasures of the tribe of Teipe, formerly their devout
+worshippers.
+
+Speaking of phosphorescent things, did I ever tell you about the curious
+luminous fungi which are found in the mountains of Fiji? They gleam with
+a pale weird blue light, and the natives occasionally play tricks at the
+expense of their superstitious neighbours, suggestive of the
+turnip-ghosts of our own foolish young days.
+
+Another new experience of this afternoon has been tasting the far-famed
+orange-rum, which is supposed to have such a deteriorating effect on
+those addicted to it. It is weak, insipid stuff, like mawkish vinegar. I
+should be very sorry to drink a wine-glassful of it, but I should think
+a bucketful would scarcely have any effect on the head, however
+seriously it might disturb other organs. I am certain it is weaker than
+the cider of which English haymakers drink twenty large mugs in a day
+with impunity.
+
+But I am told that long before the introduction of oranges, and the
+consequent invention of orange-rum, the Tahitians had been taught by the
+Hawaiians how to distil an intoxicating spirit from the root of the _ti_
+shrub,[49] which is highly saccharine, and is generally baked, and made
+into puddings.
+
+They invented a still of the rudest construction. For the boiler they
+hollowed a lump of rock, and this they covered with an unwieldy wooden
+cover, the rude stump of a tree, into which was inserted a long bamboo,
+which rested in a trough of cold water, and conveyed the distilled
+spirit into a gourd. This ponderous boiler was set on two layers of
+stones, leaving a space for a fire, and was then filled with the baked
+_ti_ root, which had been soaked till fermentation had commenced. Then
+ensued wild orgies, when all the people of the district gave themselves
+up to unbridled licentiousness; and having drunk till they were mad,
+generally ended by quarrelling, so that it was not an uncommon thing to
+find the remains of one of these rude stills overturned and scattered on
+the ground, and around them the corpses of those who had ended their
+drunken bout by a free fight, in which clubs and stone axes had proved
+efficient weapons.
+
+The practice of this very unpleasant vice spread rapidly to other isles,
+and was one of the serious hindrances met with by the early
+missionaries. Thus, when Raiatea had for some time been looked upon as a
+model island, it only needed the arrival of a trading ship, and of a
+cask of spirits, to produce an outbreak on the part of King Tamatoa (not
+the present man), which was instantly followed by the mass of the
+people, who in their reawakened craving for spirits prepared about
+twenty stills, all of which were in full operation, when Mr Williams,
+returning after a short absence, found the island which he had left so
+orderly and flourishing, all given up to mad drunkenness.
+
+Having had their bout, the people were naturally rather ashamed of
+themselves, remembering how nobly their grand old chief, the original
+Tamatoa, Queen Pomare’s grandfather, had kept his vow of temperance
+during the fifteen years he lived after becoming a Christian. Previous
+to that time he too had been a heavy drinker, and being a man of
+gigantic strength, and six feet eleven inches in height, he was not
+pleasant company when drunk. So it was a happy hour in which he vowed
+never again to touch any intoxicating liquor, and became the most
+constant attendant at school and chapel.
+
+When his favourite daughter Maikara, the governess of Huahine, heard of
+this outbreak in Raiatea, she went over, with some of her trusted
+officers, to help the orderly remnant in the isle to carry out the laws
+for the destruction of all stills; and though in some districts they met
+with considerable opposition, they effected their purpose thoroughly.
+Not long afterwards a temperance society was formed, which seems to have
+worked satisfactorily on the whole, though of course individuals
+sometimes succumb to the temptations so cruelly offered by foreign
+ships.
+
+Evidently drunkenness is no longer admired as a kingly attribute, for
+the Raiateans banished the present Tamatoa, who was formerly their king,
+because of his disagreeable habit of taking pot-shots at his subjects
+when he was very far gone. I am happy to say he does not now indulge in
+this obnoxious practice, which would be particularly dangerous to us, as
+he lives in the next house, and frequently entertains us with wild
+rollicking songs, which, however, are not nearly so hateful as his habit
+of beating a large drum for several hours at a time! an entertainment
+which must be particularly trying to his sweet gentle wife, the charming
+Moë, concerning whom even the Frenchmen always speak with unbounded
+respect, and whose faithful love to her jovial but very trying spouse
+has continued unshaken, notwithstanding all the homage of one sort or
+another with which she has been loaded, including that of the author of
+‘South Sea Bubbles.’
+
+Just now every one is anxious about her, for she is daily expecting a
+small addition to her family, and is exceedingly ill with influenza—a
+very violent form of which has recently broken out, severely affecting
+lungs and throat. It is a real epidemic. A number of people have died
+from it, and such a multitude are suffering, that the town seems _morne_
+and sad. Even the band is deserted and the church is empty. Tamatoa
+himself, and the queen’s two sisters, Titaua Brander and Moetia
+Attwater, are among the sufferers. Mrs Miller and her grown-up sons,
+Mme. Fayzeau and her children, and all Mrs Green’s children, are really
+very ill—high fever accompanied by utter prostration of strength being
+among the symptoms.
+
+It is a most extraordinary fact that on every one of the Polynesian
+groups the natives declare that influenza was never known till white men
+came; and now it is one of the regular scourges of the Pacific,
+returning almost every year in a greater or less degree, but
+occasionally proving very severe and fatal, especially to old folk. It
+is generally preceded by westerly or southerly winds, and passes off as
+the steady trade-winds set in bringing fine settled weather. It first
+appeared in Samoa in 1830, just when the first missionaries Williams and
+Barff touched the group, and was of course attributed to their
+machinations. In the New Hebrides, where it proved a very serious
+scourge, it led to the murder of many teachers, who (as I think I have
+already told you) were considered to be the disease-makers.
+
+Among those now suffering from it, is dear old Mrs Simpson, the “mother
+of missions” in these parts, of whose “pure Biblical English” Lord
+Pembroke spoke so admiringly. She is now on a visit to Mrs Brander, to
+whom she has been like a second mother. There I have frequently met her,
+and we have become great friends. She is planning that I am to visit her
+daughter, Mme. Valles, who is married to a retired French officer, and
+has a plantation on Moorea. I hope to see it in the course of a few
+days.
+
+                                                  _Wednesday, 31st Oct._
+
+Alas! the influenza has done its work quickly. Only yesterday morning I
+was breakfasting with Mrs Brander on my return from a lovely early ride
+with Narii, up the Fautawa valley; Mrs Simpson was unable to appear, and
+afterwards a messenger came to tell Mr Green that she was very ill. In
+the night I was wakened by a man with a lantern standing at my open
+window; he brought tidings of her death.
+
+It is a most trying moment, for this real sorrow occurs just when all
+those who were most devoted to the clever, good, and loving old lady,
+are compelled from their position to take a leading part in the
+festivities for the royal reception in Moorea. Mrs Brander, as chiefess
+of the isle, has to make every sort of festal preparation—and now, in
+addition to these, she has to make all arrangements for the funeral of
+her loved old friend, whose body will be carried to Moorea to-morrow on
+board the Seignelay. It will be a terrible shock for poor Mme. Valles,
+who to-day is preparing for all the gay doings of to-morrow, little
+dreaming that besides all the expected friends, whose visit would have
+been such a delight, _one_ will return silent—never more to leave the
+isle where her lips first taught the words of life to many....
+
+We start for Moorea to-morrow morning.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XVI.
+ THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND MOOREA—THE SEIGNELAY STARTS FOR THE MARQUESAS
+                        AND PAUMOTUS—INDECISION.
+
+
+                                       _Chez_ REV. JAMES GREEN, PAPEETE,
+                                           _Sunday, 4th Nov._
+
+DEAREST NELL,—All the others have gone off to the Tahitian church. As I
+find, from long experience, that attending service in an unknown tongue
+tends to produce habits of the strictest inattention, I thought I might
+as well stay at home and have a talk with you. We returned from Moorea
+yesterday, and I am still very tired. This expedition has been very
+fatiguing, and somewhat bewildering, from the manner in which everything
+was hurried; there was really no time to enjoy anything; it was all a
+rush to get over the ground.
+
+For some reason unknown, the admiral determined to accomplish the grand
+round in two days, which did not allow of a halt at half the districts.
+This was the more tantalising as the island is indescribably lovely, and
+I longed to linger at every point. The day of our start was equally
+hurried, and the people had received such very short notice, that they
+were quite unprepared for the royal visit, and somewhat disconcerted in
+consequence. And then the combination of mourning with ceremonial
+rejoicing was a very distressing element.
+
+On Thursday morning one of the Seignelay boats came here to take me on
+board at 7 A.M., and soon afterwards the king and queen arrived,
+escorted by the admiral and many officers of La Magicienne. Mrs Brander
+and all her family party soon followed. But our wonted gaiety was
+altogether lacking, for there was a solemn presence in our midst, and we
+all knew that beneath the Union-jack, which was spread as a pall, lay
+the coffin containing the remains of one very dear to many in these
+isles. Her husband was buried on Moorea, near the spot where his
+daughter now lives; and now the two faithful workers have been laid side
+by side in this far country
+
+Two hours steaming brought us to Vaianae Bay, whence we rowed ashore to
+Afareaitu, a distance of about two miles. Thence the boats returned to
+the Seignelay, which proceeded to the other side of the isle to find
+good anchorage.
+
+On landing, we were received by the head men, in very fine _tiputas_
+(the much-decorated upper garment of native cloth). These they presented
+to the admiral and the king. But our arrival was so premature, that the
+reception was on a small scale—the people not having had time to
+assemble. After breakfast I secured a rapid outline of the strange
+beautiful hills, then we had to hurry away, in excellent boats, the
+property of Tahitians.
+
+As we rowed along inside the reef, each turn revealed new marvels of
+that most lovely coast, which combines the softest beauties of rich
+foliage with the most weird grandeur of mountain gloom. The island is by
+far the most wonderful I have ever seen. Just one confused mass of
+basaltic crags and pinnacles, lofty ridges, so narrow that here and
+there where some part has broken away you can see the sky through an
+opening like the eye of a needle. Nature seems to have here built up
+gigantic rock-fortresses, mighty bastions and towers which reach up into
+heaven; pyramids, before which those of Gizeh would appear as pigmies,
+and minarets such as the builders of the Kootub never dreamt of. It is
+as though some huge mountain of rock had been rent asunder, and its
+fragments left standing upright in stupendous splinters. Some one has
+unpleasantly compared these to asses’ ears, and I am fain to confess
+that the description is good, so far as outline is concerned.
+
+I had caught glimpses of some of these amazing stone needles and towers
+as we passed Moorea on the first morning, but then they only appeared
+mysteriously through the drifting vapours, which idealise and magnify
+the most commonplace crags. Now there were no mists, and the huge
+pinnacles stood out sharp and clear against a cloudless sky, while far
+below them the riven rocks lay seamed by narrow chasms—dark sunless
+ravines, moist with the spray of many waterfalls, and rich with all
+green things that love warm misty shade.
+
+I believe that when reduced to figures, the mountains of Moorea are
+found to average only half the height of those in Tahiti, the latter
+rising to upwards of 7000 feet, while the highest peak of Moorea,
+Afareaitu, is only 3976 feet. But the strangely varied forms of the
+latter are so remarkable, that a few thousand feet more or less seem a
+matter of indifference.
+
+I did long to crave a few moments’ halt from time to time, to secure
+ever so slight an outline of some specially striking scene, but of
+course I dared not suggest it, as we were evidently bound to “make good
+time” (that crime in travelling, which so many mistake for a virtue).
+The result was, that we reached Haapiti at 2 P.M. Mrs Brander, who had
+hurried on at once to make her preparations, had counted on our not
+arriving till four at the earliest, so of course nothing was ready.
+
+The admiral went to examine schools, and I lost no time in settling down
+to a large sketch of the beautiful and fairy-like scene—the grand
+mountain amphitheatre of stupendous crags and precipices, a middle
+distance of richest foliage, and in the foreground, on a lawn of
+greenest turf, the pretty temporary building of palm and bamboo, erected
+for the banquet. The interior was lined with tree-ferns and bunches of
+rosy oleander, and festooned with many hundred yards of deep fringe made
+of hybiscus fibre. The thatch was entirely composed of the long glossy
+fronds of birds’-nest fern,[50] which, being tough and leathery, make a
+good permanent thatch, and one which lasts much longer than
+banana-leaves, though, of course, it is more troublesome to arrange in
+the first instance. It seems too bad to sacrifice such an incredible
+number of these beautiful plants. The only consolation is, that they
+grow in places so inaccessible that no human eye ever beholds them, save
+that of the goat-like cragsman who explores the deep ravines in search
+of the wild _faees_, which constitute the principal article of food on
+these isles.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  A ROYAL RECEPTION. HAAPITI. ISLE MOOREA.
+]
+
+Shortly before sunset all the people of the district assembled, each
+with a piece of yellow native cloth thrown over their black dresses like
+a shawl, to symbolise joy in sorrow. They formed an immense procession,
+headed by Mrs Brander as high chiefess. She was dressed entirely in
+black, only relieved by a most becoming crown of glossy white arrowroot,
+with a plume of snowy _reva-reva_. Immediately after her followed the
+gentlemen of her family, wearing very beautiful _tiputas_ of bread-fruit
+bark cloth, covered with ornaments and flowers made of arrowroot and
+bamboo fibre, and all fringed with the delicate _reva-reva_. They made
+an address and sang the _himènes_ of welcome which should have greeted
+the royalties on their landing. Then the chiefs presented their
+beautiful garments to the principal persons present, and all the people
+laid their yellow scarves and pretty hats at their feet. One of the
+_tiputas_ was intended for me, but as I sat apart to see the general
+picture, it was unfortunately given to some one else; but Mrs Brander
+reserved for me a most delicate hand-screen of the finest fibre.
+
+Then followed a great dinner, admirable in every respect, the pretty
+booth being illuminated by a multitude of Chinese lanterns; and the
+_himène_ singing, which was continued at intervals all the evening, was
+particularly good. The sleeping arrangements were less satisfactory,
+there having been no time to make preparations for so large a party; so
+my hostess had only reserved one tiny room for herself, two children,
+two native women, and me. It was a foreign house, with windows. These
+were tightly closed, and a bright lamp kept burning all night,—both
+circumstances fatal to all chance of sleep,—so I preferred a shake-down
+in the sitting-room. Unfortunately, my experience of the luxuries of
+Tahiti had induced me to travel without my own mosquito-net; and the
+attacks of these persistent foes, combined with the perpetual movement
+of locomotive women, incessantly opening the door at my head and
+admitting a stream of bright light, effectually banished all hope of
+sleep. It was a night of feverish unrest,—a bad preparation for the
+morrow.
+
+Again came a hurried morning start in good native boats,—the coast,
+beautiful as that of yesterday. We had a strong wind and tide against
+us, and made slow progress. After a severe pull of three hours, we
+stopped at a point where the rowers landed to rest and get cocoa-nuts;
+but hordes of mosquitoes attacked and routed us, even following us on
+our way. Finally we landed, and walked the last two miles to Papetoai,
+on Opunohu Bay, where the Seignelay anchored last night.
+
+Mrs Simpson’s body was brought ashore this morning, and as the people
+were all too much fussed to mourn their old friend and clerical mother
+(at least externally), the coffin was carried to the church by French
+sailors; and they and their officers were the only persons present,
+besides the immediate relations, at a sort of preliminary service held
+by M. Brun, the Protestant pastor.
+
+Breakfast, chiefly consisting of omelets which had been cooked at 7
+A.M., was not served till noon; and as I had only succeeded in securing
+a bit of biscuit before starting, I was so famished that one of the
+officers went to forage on my account, and returned in triumph with a
+yard of bread! This proved so satisfying, that, craving permission to
+escape from the formal meal, I returned on board with my old shipmates,
+and secured a careful drawing of the wonderfully lovely mountains ere
+the rest of the party came on board. One young sailor came to great
+grief in trying to climb a cocoa-nut tree—an operation which appears
+very easy to the expert islanders, but sorely puzzles a foreigner. This
+poor lad fell from a considerable height, breaking his arm and severely
+injuring his head. So the kind doctor had his hands full, and no time to
+enjoy the beautiful scenery.
+
+We steamed round to Pao Pao, commonly known as Cook’s Bay, which is also
+very fine. Here we left the steamer, and, taking to the boats, rowed
+four miles to Tiaia, which is a pretty village by the sea. On one side
+of it there is a splendid grove of glossy-leaved _tamanu_ trees, and a
+few fine old iron-wood trees—the casuarina—all that now remains of what
+was once a very sacred grove surrounding the ancient _marae_. Now the
+Christian church occupies the site where formerly human sacrifices were
+offered to the cruel gods. At a distance of about two miles from this
+village there is a brackish lake—Lake Temae—about a mile in length. It
+contains good fish, and many wild duck haunt its sedgy and very muddy
+shores. Under the impression that it was very much nearer, I joined the
+exploring party. We had to make a _détour_ of some length, and found no
+beauty to compensate for a very fatiguing walk of upwards of four miles,
+which, combined with that of the morning, quite finished me. I could not
+even sit up for the evening _himènes_, which was a matter of real
+regret, as the singers here are considered the very best in the group.
+Several of the women have very fine falsetto voices.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  PAO PAO, OR COOK’S BAY. ISLE MOOREA.
+]
+
+To my great delight, in apportioning our quarters, M. Hardouin, A.D.C.,
+awarded me a tiny house all to myself—the owners kept only the outer
+room; and when they went off to join the _himènes_ they locked the door
+to keep their charge safe. Happily one of my friends on the Seignelay
+had lent me a mosquito-net, so I slept the blessed, dreamless sleep of
+the weary.
+
+In the morning at 6 A.M., as I was dressing leisurely for 7 o’clock
+coffee, Queen Marau rushed in to say the admiral was all ready for a 6
+o’clock start. Thereupon followed a horrid hurry-scurry to get ready,
+and a four miles’ row back to the vessel. At 7.30 she was under way, and
+at 10 A.M. we were at anchor in Papeete harbour.
+
+Altogether this has been a most tantalising expedition, an
+unsatisfactory hurrying over scenes of surpassing beauty. Mrs Brander
+says that if I will stay some time longer in Tahiti she will take me
+back there and let me pasture at leisure in that artists’ paradise. Fain
+would I linger,—indeed all manner of delightful ploys are proposed, but
+all involve time, and I have promised to meet Lady Gordon at Christmas,
+either at Auckland or Sydney, according to what I hear at Honolulu, so I
+must not lose the chance of the first vessel to the Sandwich Isles.
+
+                                                         _Tuesday, 6th._
+
+It has been decided that one of Mrs Brander’s vessels, the Maramma
+(_i.e._, the Moon), is to start for Honolulu on Saturday, so that
+settles the time of my departure from Tahiti. It is also announced that
+on Thursday the Seignelay is to be sent off to the Marquesas, to convey
+a force of gendarmes to inquire into some recent outbreaks of
+cannibalism. Mrs Brander has been most kindly renewing her invitation to
+me to stay with her till the next trip of the Maramma to Honolulu—a
+matter of two months! It is most tempting, but I feel bound to go. At
+the band to-night, Mr Darsie, manager of the _Maison Brandère_,
+expressed his astonishment that I should lose such a chance of seeing
+the Marquesas and the Paumotus, adding that the manager of the business
+for those groups was going to take the trip, and would enable me to see
+everything to the greatest advantage, and the ship is to return here in
+a fortnight. Certainly it would be quite delightful, but what _is_ the
+use of suggesting the impossible?
+
+                                                       _Wednesday, 7th._
+
+Early this morning we went on board the Maramma to see the cabin which
+Mrs Brander has kindly reserved for me—the best in the ship. It made me
+sad to look at it and to think that it is to carry me away for ever from
+this supremely lovely South Sea paradise. All to-day we have had a
+succession of visits from my kind friends of the Seignelay, to urge my
+giving up Honolulu in favour of Les Marquises, or, if that could not be,
+to _faire les adieux_. At the very last came M. de Gironde, who is
+always my good genius, to try and prove that it was not too late to
+change my mind, and that his cabin was at my disposal as before. Surely
+there never was a ship full of such kind people. Of course it would be
+quite delightful to go and see another lot of beautiful isles; but after
+all, I suppose they are very much like these, and my brain already feels
+overcrowded with pictures, each lovelier than the last. So, for every
+reason, it seems best to stand true to my tryst, and be content with a
+run to the volcanoes, and then drop down to the comparatively
+commonplace scenes of Australia or New Zealand.
+
+This has been quite a sad day of farewells. We dined with the Verniers
+and afterwards went to the admiral’s reception—a very pretty and
+animated dance.
+
+                                                        _Thursday, 8th._
+
+At nine this morning the Seignelay steamed close past our windows, and
+great was the farewell waving of hats and handkerchiefs. I grieve to
+part from the many kind companions of so many pleasant days (and of sad
+ones too); and I would fain be going on with the good ship now, for I
+sorely regret the approaching end of my travels in these parts.
+
+To-night we dined at Mrs Brander’s. The party included a large number of
+officers from the Magicienne. It was a farewell entertainment, as Mrs
+Brander’s son Aleck and Mr Darsie both go to Honolulu in the Maramma
+(the latter _en route_ to England). They too are going to see the
+volcanoes; but if they are rightly informed concerning the trips of the
+little Hawaiian steamer, I begin to have very grave doubts of the
+possibility of my visiting the southern isles at all, if I attempt to
+carry out my programme, even supposing we have a fair wind and quick
+passage to Honolulu, which is more than doubtful.
+
+                                                          _Friday, 9th._
+
+A wretched sleepless night, worrying over plans. Difficulties always do
+exaggerate themselves so absurdly if one lies awake. Out at daybreak to
+get a sketch from the shore. It is all working against time, and my heap
+of unfinished drawings is a serious nightmare. I have been struggling to
+get several duplicate sketches finished for various friends, and I feel
+like a graphic barrel-organ—an unreasoning machine for the
+multiplication of drawings; and the ever-recurring thought arises, Why
+not stay and have the delight of working from nature, as the kind
+friends here advise, when after all it is more than probable that the
+Christmas tryst will fall through? But anyhow, I have missed the chance
+of Les Marquises, and it would seem too silly to change my mind now.
+
+Mrs Brander came to-day to say good-bye, but added emphatically, “You’re
+not gone yet, however!” There’s no doubt that her invitation to stay on
+is quite _bonâ fide_; but for two months at least! What a visitation to
+inflict on any one!
+
+Mrs Miller drove me to call on the Bishop of Axièri, Monseigneur Tepano
+Janssen, who is most kind and courteous. He showed us all over his
+grounds, which are literally a garden of acclimatisation, so numerous
+are the useful plants of other lands which he is endeavouring to
+introduce. It is greatly due to his care that the mangoes of Tahiti have
+been brought to such perfection. The conversation turned on many
+subjects of interest. Amongst other things, speaking of the effect of
+many mingled sounds, he told us of the deafening noise produced by the
+cries of sea-birds on some of the isles where he has touched, on one of
+which he witnessed a strange instance of combined action by myriads of
+sea-birds and herons; the former, diving simultaneously, produced a
+noise like a thunder-clap as they struck the water. The dignified herons
+profited by their neighbours’ work, and waited on the shore ready to
+catch the startled fish as they fled affrighted from the divers.
+
+This evening the admiral invited Mrs Miller, Madame Fayzeau, and myself,
+to dine on board La Magicienne. She is a very fine old-fashioned
+frigate, with vast accommodation, splendid broad decks of great length.
+The admiral has a large dining-room, and a sitting-room the size of an
+average drawing-room, with four large square windows opening into a
+gallery round the stern—a charming lounge in fine weather. Commandant
+Beïque has rooms equally pretty, on the same level, each with a large
+square window (I cannot call them ports). They are so high above the
+water that they scarcely ever have to be closed—a true boon in the
+tropics. I never saw so roomy a ship. With all her big guns, five
+hundred sailors, and thirty officers, there was no symptom of crowding.
+Amongst the officers are two belonging to the Peruvian navy, who have
+come to study the French system of navigation. One of these is
+remarkable for his diminutive size and extraordinary strength; the
+biggest men in the ship cannot wrestle with him, nor fight him (in
+sport).
+
+After dinner we adjourned to Government House grounds to hear the band
+play, as usual; then all walked back by the shore to the British
+consulate, for a farewell evening, and finished it here in this sweet
+homelike nest. I do grieve that it should be the last evening, the more
+so as I am beginning to believe that what all my friends here agree in
+saying must be true—namely, that when I made my vague calculation of
+reaching Sydney for Christmas, it was on the principle of Jules Verne’s
+‘Round the World in Eighty Days.’ They say that to attempt fitting the
+Sandwich Isles volcanoes into the time is preposterous folly. I think
+they are right, but it is too late to change now. What further concerns
+me is the thought, which had not previously presented itself, that very
+likely, after all this pushing and scrambling, and spoiling everything
+by useless hurry, Lady Gordon may have given up the idea, and may stay
+quietly in Fiji till she is obliged to take the children direct to
+England,[51] and I may never know this till I reach Sydney.
+
+                                                       _Saturday, 10th._
+
+Another weary night—perplexing and conflicting suggestions—the horrid
+feeling of being disloyal to a tryst, yet the certainty that nowhere
+else shall I find such beauty as I am leaving. Those unsketched
+dolomites of Moorea—those ferny ravines all unexplored—those glorious
+valleys of bread-fruit—the _himènes_ that I shall never hear again! And
+every one agrees in telling me that the Hawaiian Isles are not to
+compare with these in beauty,—that the hills are comparatively
+shapeless, the foliage poor, the bread-fruit sickly and blighted, the
+cocoa-palms mere ghosts of their southern relations, and the mangoes
+miserable fruits, not worthy to bear the same name as the luscious
+mangoes of Tahiti. They tell me, too, that the people are much less
+attractive; that they have taken on so much blunt civilisation, that
+they have lost whatever native grace they may have once possessed. Even
+the same garment—the flowing _sacque_—is there worn so short and full
+that it is scarcely to be recognised, and instead of floating drapery it
+becomes a mere dress.[52]
+
+Well, I must now begin my packing. There will be time enough for writing
+before we reach Honolulu.
+
+                                          PAPEETE, _Saturday Afternoon_.
+
+Jubilate! Jubilate! The Maramma is to start in an hour, but will leave
+me to revel in South Sea loveliness till her next trip. This morning,
+just as I was putting the finishing touches to my packing—I must confess
+very much _contre-cœur_, and quite in the vein of Eve’s lamentation,
+“Must I leave thee, Paradise?”—up drove pretty Queen Marau and her
+handsome sister Moetia, who carried the position by assault,—vowed it
+was not too late to change a foolish plan; so leaving Moetia with her
+cousin Moë, Marau made me jump into her pony-phaeton and drove me
+straight off to Fautawa, where her sister Titaua, Mrs Brander, was
+giving a great entertainment to all her _employés_, previous to her
+son’s departure for Honolulu. Then and there she made me recant all my
+previous protestations and refusals of her most hospitable invitations,
+and in two seconds all was settled. I am to be her guest till the
+Maramma returns, and is again sent to Honolulu.
+
+Now that it is all settled, I feel quite satisfied and reprieved; so
+instead of a long letter written on board ship, I must despatch this as
+it is. We are just hurrying to the wharf to say good-bye to our friends,
+and then I look forward to a grand night’s rest, for I am thoroughly
+tired.
+
+I have been hoping against hope that a letter might reach me here, _viâ_
+New Zealand; but the schooner thence is about a month overdue, and it is
+feared she has gone on a reef. Good-bye.—Your loving sister.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVII.
+   VAIN REGRETS—SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MARQUESAS AND THE PAUMOTU GROUPS.
+
+
+                                               PAPEETE, _November 11th_.
+
+I am certainly very glad that my good friends here supplied the moral
+courage which I failed to find, and so enabled me to repent at the
+eleventh hour. I do rejoice in the sense of repose, knowing that for at
+least two months I may now explore the many scenes of enchantment which
+lie on every side, without a thought of hurry.
+
+Yet even this joy is not unmixed. I do find it very hard to be truly
+philosophical, and not to cry over spilt milk, when I think of the
+delightful cruise to the Marquesas and Paumotus, which would so
+admirably have filled up this first fortnight, had I only been able to
+decide three days earlier.
+
+But it was not till the hospitable ship had sailed, that I found leisure
+soberly to think the matter over, and to realise how very rare and
+precious a chance I had so idiotically thrown away. When your eyes are
+satiated with grand scenery, and each lovely group of isles seems only
+to differ from the last in its degree of special beauty, you are apt to
+think that really you have seen enough, and may as well pause and be
+satisfied with all the exquisite pictures which crowd before your
+memory. So, when these most kind friends urged me to accompany them on
+this expedition, I was so absorbed in working up some of the innumerable
+sketches made on the last trip, that I never took time to think out the
+subject in all its bearings, and to see how impossible it would be for
+me to reach Honolulu by sailing-ship, see all the wonders of the
+Sandwich Isles, and then return to New Zealand or Sydney before
+Christmas, as I had proposed doing.
+
+Neither did I at all realise how very few travellers have ever seen the
+Marquesas, and how very little is known about them by the general
+public, beyond the bare facts of their having been discovered by the
+Spaniards in 1595, and by them named after the Marquesas de Mendoza, the
+Viceroy of Peru.
+
+They then seem to have been forgotten till about the year 1777, when
+they were visited by Captain Cook, who has recorded his admiration of
+their loveliness, and declared that the inhabitants were the finest race
+he had seen, “in fine shape and regular features perhaps surpassing all
+other nations,” “as fair as some Europeans, and much tattooed.” He found
+fine harbours, from twenty to thirty fathoms deep, close inshore, with
+clear sandy bottom; good store of wood and water; and at first the
+natives seemed inclined to receive the strangers kindly, but became less
+cordial on further acquaintance.
+
+Soon afterwards the London Mission endeavoured to establish a station in
+the group, but found the people such savage cannibals, that the position
+was untenable, and they were forced to abandon it. From that time
+forward we have only an occasional record of some American man-of-war
+having touched there, invariably confirming Cook’s account of the beauty
+of the people and of the isles.
+
+In 1837 the French sent out an exploring expedition commanded by
+D’Urville, whose somewhat remarkable official orders were,
+“_d’apprivoiser les hommes, et de rendre les femmes un peu plus
+sauvages!_”
+
+The result of his report was, that the French decided on establishing
+themselves in the Marquesas, the Society, and the Paumotu Isles.
+Accordingly, in 1842, an expedition sailed from Brest to effect this
+purpose, its destination being a secret known only to its commander. The
+Marquesas were selected as the best centre of operations. A squadron of
+four heavy frigates and three corvettes, commanded by Rear-Admiral Du
+Petit Thouars, accordingly astonished the natives by suddenly appearing
+in the lovely harbour of Taiohae, on the island of Nukuheva; and very
+soon these simple folk learned the full meaning of the gay tricoloured
+flags and bristling broadsides.
+
+The ostensible pretext for this invasion was that of reinstating
+Mowanna, the friendly chief of Nukuheva, in what the French thought
+proper to assume as his ancestral right—namely, that of ruling over the
+whole group of twelve isles, each of which had hitherto considered
+itself as a distinct world, subdivided into many antagonistic kingdoms.
+However, a puppet-king was the pretext required, and Mowanna furnished
+it, and was rewarded with regal honours and a gorgeous military uniform,
+rich with gold lace and embroidery.
+
+Of course he and his tribe of Nukuhevans were vastly delighted,
+perceiving that they had gained omnipotent allies; and when five hundred
+troops were landed in full uniform, and daily drilled by resplendent
+officers, their admiration knew no bounds. They recollected how, when in
+1814, the U.S. frigate Essex, commanded by Captain Porter, had refitted
+at Nukuheva, she had lent them a considerable force of sailors and
+marines, to assist their own body of 2000 men in attacking a
+neighbouring tribe. The latter had offered a desperate resistance, and
+repulsed the allied forces, who, however, consoled themselves by burning
+every village they could reach, thus giving the inhabitants good cause
+to hate the white men’s ships.
+
+Now, with the aid of these warlike French troops, the Nukuhevans thought
+themselves sure of victory, with the prospect of retaining the
+supremacy. But when fortifications were commenced, and the troops
+surrounded their camps with solid works of defence, making it evident
+that the occupation was to be a permanent one, a feeling of detestation,
+mingled with fear of the invaders, gradually increased, and was
+certainly not lessened by several sharp encounters, in one of which, 150
+natives are said to have been slain. However, the reign of might
+prevailed, and the tricolour has floated over the Marquesas unchallenged
+from that time to the present.
+
+This appropriation of the Marquesas was immediately followed by that of
+the Society Isles, whither the admiral proceeded in the Reine Blanche
+frigate, leaving the rest of the squadron at the Marquesas. He anchored
+in the harbour of Papeete, and sent a message to Queen Pomare to the
+effect that, unless she immediately agreed to pay somewhere about 30,000
+dollars as an indemnity for alleged insults to the French flag, he would
+bombard the defenceless town.
+
+The said insults were very much like those offered by the lamb to the
+wolf in the old fable, the pretext raked up being simply that Queen
+Pomare and all her people, having already become stanch Christians,
+according to the teaching of the London Mission, had positively refused
+to allow certain French priests to settle in the isles, and found a
+Roman Catholic Mission, with a view to proselytising. These proving
+obstinate in their determination to remain, had, with all due honour,
+been conveyed on board a vessel about to sail for some distant port,
+with a sensible recommendation to pursue their calling on some of the
+many isles which were still heathen.
+
+The French admiral now insisted that, in addition to paying the
+indemnity demanded, the people of Tahiti should, at their own expense,
+erect a Roman Catholic church in every district where they had built one
+for their congregational worship.
+
+The unhappy queen, terrified lest the arrogant Du Petit Thouars should
+commence bombarding her helpless capital, yet utterly incapable of
+complying with his unjust demands, fled by night in a canoe to the isle
+of Moorea, knowing that no decisive action could be taken in her
+absence. Her best friend and adviser throughout these troubles was the
+British consul, Mr Pritchard. The admiral, perceiving this, caused him
+to be arrested and imprisoned. After being kept for ten days in solitary
+confinement, he was put on board an English vessel out at sea, and
+forcibly sent away from the islands without a trial or investigation of
+any kind.
+
+On his arrival in England the British Government naturally demanded an
+explanation of such proceedings. M. Guizot replied that the French
+authorities at Tahiti found they could make no progress there because of
+Mr Pritchard’s great influence with the queen—in other words, his
+determination, if possible, to see fair play. The French Government,
+therefore, approved the action of its officials, but promised to
+indemnify Mr Pritchard for what they themselves described as his illegal
+imprisonment and pecuniary losses. We have, however, Mr Pritchard’s own
+authority for the fact that, in the year 1880, he had never received one
+single _sou_ of the promised indemnity; and England apparently
+considered it the part of wisdom, if not of honour, to let the subject
+drop.
+
+So the French pirates (for certainly in all this matter they acted as
+such) compelled the poor queen and her chiefs to yield to their demands.
+Some, indeed, strove to make a brave stand, and drive the invaders from
+their shores; but what could these unarmed warriors do against
+artillery? They retreated to their mountain fastnesses, but French
+troops pursued them thither, built scientific forts, and remained
+masters of the position. The good, sensible queen, who had proved
+herself so wise a ruler of a happy and peaceful people up to this
+terrible November 1843, was now declared incompetent to govern. The
+French Protectorate was established,[53] and the Reine Blanche having
+saluted the Protectorate flag, desired the queen and chiefs to do
+likewise—an order which they were unable to obey, till the admiral
+politely offered to lend the necessary gunpowder! Thus was this
+buccaneering expedition carried out, and France established as ruler in
+the three groups—the Marquesas, the Paumotus, and the Society Isles.[54]
+It was a South Sea version of
+
+          “The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold,
+          And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold;”—
+
+but in this case the lamb found no deliverer.
+
+This bare historical outline was literally all I knew about the
+Marquesas Isles, and I doubt whether you or any one else in England
+knows much more.
+
+Now that through my ignorance I have thrown away such a chance of
+visiting them, and also the Paumotus, I am told on all sides that they
+are the loveliest group in the Pacific, ideal in their beauty—embodied
+poems; and so I am fuming over my own folly, and telling myself that a
+traveller who could let slip such a golden opportunity must have reached
+second childhood, and is no longer fit to wander at large. I try to be
+philosophical, and not fret over the irrevocable; but of all the
+scattered leaves that I have yet suffered to float past me on that
+“stream that never returneth,” none has aggravated me so sorely as this.
+I am assured on all hands that I should have received a genial welcome
+from the French governor and Madame —— and their little society, and
+that the expedition would have been in every respect exceptionally
+delightful.
+
+As it is, I can only gather a few faint visions of the lovely isles by
+stringing together such particulars as I can learn respecting them. To
+begin with, “Les isles Marquises” comprise twelve volcanic isles, thrown
+up in wildly irregular black crags, the central range of the larger
+isles towering to a height of 5000 feet, while in many places
+inaccessible crags rise perpendicular from the sea, but are so
+exquisitely draped with parasitic plants as to resemble a succession of
+green waterfalls. Not that true waterfalls are lacking. On the contrary,
+the mountains are furrowed with deep ravines, in each one of which flows
+a sparkling river of clearest water, fed by countless cascades, which
+fall from high cliffs, and, uniting in the upper valleys, leap in
+rushing cataracts over the sheer precipices, by which alone they may
+reach the lower levels.
+
+Six of these islands are inhabited—namely, Nukuheva, Hiva-oa (commonly
+called Dominica), Tetuhiva, Tahuata, Uapou, and Uahuna, Of these, the
+principal are Nukuheva and Dominica.
+
+The former is about 17 miles in length by 12 in breadth—the latter 20 by
+7. The population of the group, which a few years ago was roughly
+estimated at from 15,000 to 20,000, does not now exceed 5000, of whom
+3000 are the inhabitants of Dominique. On all the other islands the
+population was decimated about fifteen years ago by the so-called
+Peruvian labour trade—in other words, remorseless kidnappers. Smallpox
+was also introduced by foreign ships, and, as in all new countries where
+it breaks out for the first time, swept the isles like a consuming fire,
+leaving to this day the trace of its awful ravages.
+
+It broke out in the year 1863, and quickly spread throughout the group.
+On the isle of Nukuheva it raged with frightful virulence, and carried
+off a great multitude. José, a Peruvian convert who had found his way to
+the Marquesas, and established himself as an evangelist, devoted himself
+with untiring patience and zeal to the care of the sick, whose
+panic-stricken friends forsook them, and left him alone to tend that
+terrible company of miserable sufferers. Single-handed, he buried the
+dead; but, thanks to his self-devotion, many recovered, and by his good
+influence were won from their gross cannibalism and heathenism to the
+faith he so nobly taught them by its practice. But just then the French
+authorities sold all that district to Stewart & Co., a company of
+English and French merchants, who converted it into cotton and coffee
+plantations, and José was ordered to leave!
+
+The new-comers took possession of lands wellnigh depopulated by the
+terrible smallpox. Silence and desolation brooded over the rich and
+beautiful valleys, where bread-fruit, cocoa-palms, guavas, papaws, and
+all manner of tropical fruits ripened unheeded, for there were none to
+gather them.
+
+Thus where a few years ago the natives could be counted by thousands,
+there are now only scattered villages, thinly peopled.
+
+Happily the ravages of constant intertribal wars are held in check by
+the presence of the French. In former days the Marquesans were fierce
+cannibals, and the inhabitants of each lovely valley waged war to the
+death against all other tribes.
+
+The almost inaccessible mountain-ridges rise from the sea-level,
+somewhat in the general form of a great star-fish, the space between the
+arms being filled by verdant and most fertile valleys, where all manner
+of fruit trees grow luxuriantly, and where the different tribes live,
+each in its own territory, and well shielded by its natural position
+from all incursions of its neighbours. For each valley is thus enclosed
+by abrupt precipitous crags, several hundred feet in height, over which
+leap cool sparkling rivulets, bringing abundant moisture to irrigate the
+yam and _taro_ crops, the sugar-cane, cotton, and all the rich herbage
+which flourishes beneath the dense foliage of bread-fruit and bananas.
+
+Embowered in this green paradise are homes built of the yellow bamboo,
+whose feathery foliage waves so gracefully in every direction. The
+houses are thatched with palmetto-leaves, sun-bleached to a dazzling
+whiteness. They resemble the Tahitian native houses, but are built on
+oblong platforms of raised stones, such as those which form the
+foundation of Fijian houses, and which are a necessary protection
+against the damp of these isles, whose excessive verdure tells of a
+heavy rainfall. The chief wealth of the people lies in their pigs, which
+were introduced by the Spaniards, who consequently were venerated as
+gods. Cats and rats are also foreign importations. The group has
+literally no indigenous mammalia, and indeed very few birds.
+
+In former years the women manufactured native cloth, as in the other
+groups, but now a considerable amount of gay calico lends colour to
+brighten the scene. Here, however, as in other countries, the French
+prove themselves bad colonists. In most respects the Protectorate is
+merely nominal, and nothing in the way of improvement flourishes.
+
+As I before mentioned, the first attempt of the London Mission to
+establish a footing here failed signally.
+
+In 1797, two Englishmen—Messrs Crook and Harris—were sent out to try and
+establish a footing in the Marquesas. Harris found his heart fail at the
+dangers and horrors of the position, so he returned at once to Tahiti.
+Mr Crook worked alone for a year, and then returned to England in search
+of helpers. He does not seem to have resumed his dangerous post for some
+years, and then merely visited the group. Meanwhile Tahitian converts
+were sent out as teachers, but without much success, so they returned to
+Tahiti. Others took up the work, and also failed to maintain their
+ground.
+
+In 1833, three American missionaries left the Sandwich Isles,
+accompanied by their wives, and contrived to endure eight months in
+Nukuheva, endeavouring to tame and Christianise its brutal savages; but
+they also had to give up the attempt.
+
+In 1834, a fresh party of English missionaries renewed the effort, and
+struggled on till about 1840, when the London Mission finally abandoned
+the field.
+
+But in 1853, a Marquesan chief, Matanui, came to the Sandwich Isles in a
+whale-ship, and requested that teachers should be sent to his people.
+Thereupon Mr Bicknell, an Englishman, accompanied by four Hawaiian
+teachers and their wives, agreed to return with him to his island,
+Fatuhiva. Five days after they arrived, a French brig anchored there,
+bringing a Catholic priest, who demanded that they should be at once
+sent away, and declared that the Marquesas belonged to France, and that
+no English teacher would be tolerated. This statement was at once denied
+by the chiefs, who refused to dismiss their teachers, though they by no
+means yielded implicit obedience to their lessons, or even treated them
+with uniform kindness. Nevertheless the Hawaiian teachers have held
+their ground, and though discouraged and oppressed, they have continued
+to work silently but steadily, training native teachers from among their
+converts, establishing boarding schools, whereby to separate their
+scholars from evil influence at home, organising churches, and, in
+short, doing all in their power to advance the good cause.
+
+It was felt that a great step had been gained when the oppressive system
+of _tabu_ had received its first blow by many of the high chiefs coming
+to a feast at the mission, in company with their wives, as heretofore it
+had been forbidden for father, mother, or grown-up child to eat one with
+another—all had to feed apart; and the same senseless prohibitions
+extended in endless ramifications through all actions of life. Now the
+system of _tabu_ has fallen into neglect, and the Hawaiian Mission has
+gained ground, notwithstanding much hindrance from the opposition and
+interference of the Roman Catholic priests.
+
+Nevertheless, to all intents and purposes, the majority of the people
+are still savages, and the present mission of the Seignelay is to
+inquire into recent cases of alleged cannibalism, said to have occurred
+in the interior of Dominica, where the hill-tribes and fisher-tribes
+still live at constant enmity. It is said to be the most fertile island
+in the group, and to have the largest population.
+
+The French governor is supported by sundry officials, and a detachment
+of about sixty soldiers, a dozen _gens d’armes_, and a few native
+police.[55]
+
+The Catholic Mission consists of a bishop, with a considerable number of
+priests, and a sisterhood like those on Tonga, Samoa, and Tahiti. The
+priests work hard, but apparently with small result. It is whispered
+that the presence of a large number of very irreligious white men has a
+highly demoralising influence on the natives—as we can well understand;
+and even the French Government, which took such a lively interest in the
+introduction of Catholicism to Tahiti, seems to take none in the
+progress of the mission in the Marquesas.
+
+In the matter of stone and mortar a good deal has been done, well-built
+churches having been erected in all the principal valleys, in the
+proportion of one church to every 150 inhabitants. Unfortunately,
+however, the people show small disposition to adopt any form of
+Christianity. The queen Viakehu and a few of her household are devout
+Catholics; and a little flock, who profess to be Christians, rally round
+each of the missionaries, but the majority continue heathen, with a
+deeply rooted belief in their old superstitions. I have just received a
+photograph of one of the Marquesan stone idols, with two of its
+worshippers. It is singularly hideous, and the head is crowned with a
+circular capstone, resembling on a small scale the crowns of Easter
+Island.
+
+But if the Catholic Mission has hitherto failed in its ostensible work,
+it has at least given the natives a good example of industry; for every
+available inch of ground within reach of the mission is under most
+careful cultivation, and is made to grow excellent cotton.
+
+Though the Marquesans are too idle to do any sort of planting beyond
+what is actually necessary for the cultivation of their gardens, the
+example set by the mission has been followed by various settlers.
+Foremost among these is Captain Hart, a man of great energy, who has
+done much to advance the trading interest of the islands, and who on one
+of his plantations employs forty Chinamen, and about sixty natives of
+the Gilbert Islands—for here, as in all other places where white men
+endeavour to cultivate the land, they find it necessary to employ
+labourers imported from other isles, as they cannot extract the same
+amount of work from men living on their native soil.
+
+Hitherto only about a hundred Chinese, and as many Gilbert Islanders,
+have been imported, and cotton is the only article grown expressly for
+exportation. Of course where cocoa-palms are so abundant, a considerable
+amount of _coppra_,[56] is to be obtained; but the natives have
+unfortunately been instructed in the art of making palm-rum, and trees
+which have been tapped for this purpose rarely recover their full
+strength as nut-producers. Happily, in this matter, self-interest leads
+the colonists to support the missionaries in their endeavours to
+dissuade the people from thus misusing the palm-trees; but, on the other
+hand, foreign traders are too ready to supply more fiery stimulants, and
+drunkenness prevails to a grievous extent.
+
+Nearly all these isles supply one indigenous article of commerce—namely,
+a kind of fungus, which is much appreciated in China. It looks like
+dried-up leather, but is not unpalatable when stewed or served in soup.
+A considerable amount of this is obtained in most of the Marquesan
+valleys.
+
+Of colonists, properly so called, there are very few. About fifty white
+men are scattered throughout the isles. Of these, some trade; others
+cultivate the soil; while a few wander aimlessly from bay to bay, island
+to island, living upon whatever the natives like to give them: they are
+either too lazy to work, or too dishonest to find employment. These men
+include waifs from all nationalities, including Scotch, English, Irish,
+American, German, Spanish, and Portuguese. Although a French colony,
+there are only three or four French subjects who can be classed as
+colonists; but here, as elsewhere, the frugal and diligent Chinaman
+seems likely to take firm root.
+
+Nukuheva bay (where the Seignelay is probably now anchored) is described
+as surpassingly lovely. It is a perfect harbour, with very deep water,
+and forms a horse-shoe about nine miles in circumference, ending in two
+lofty and abrupt headlands. The entrance is very narrow, barely half a
+mile across, and is guarded on each side by small conical isles, rising
+about 500 feet above the sea. All round the harbour the greenest of low
+hills swell in gentle undulations, while behind these rise majestic
+mountains, whence steep rocky ridges trend seaward, dividing the vast
+amphitheatre into several distinct valleys, which, narrowing as they
+ascend, become deep, romantic glens. Here and there snowy cascades,
+gleaming through the rich verdure, tell where the precipitous crags
+close in the valleys. Some of these barrier-cliffs rise perpendicularly,
+to a height of perhaps 1500 feet. So rich is the growth of parasitical
+plants, which cling to every crevice, that these mighty rugged crags
+appear only to be green walls surmounted by black basaltic pinnacles and
+cones, beyond which tower the blue peaks of some of the higher ridges,
+which occupy the whole centre of the isle, rising to a height of about
+4000 feet.
+
+There are in these sheltered vales many old men who, in all their long
+lives, have never set foot out of their own little boundary. Those
+vine-clad cliffs have hemmed them in, and the mountain wilderness beyond
+has offered no inducement to roving. No fruit, no game; only the
+certainty of excessive toil for no reward, and the possibility of
+wandering unintentionally within the territory of some other tribe, ever
+on the watch to slay any imprudent straggler.
+
+The lives of the women have been even more circumscribed, owing to an
+extraordinary law of _tabu_, which prohibits a female from setting foot
+in a canoe; consequently her farthest voyage is regulated by her powers
+of swimming; and so, when a foreign vessel arrives in port, and the
+Marquesan nymphs wish to inspect it more closely, they can only do so by
+swimming. Small wonder if sailors, perceiving those fair-skinned
+beauties, with their tresses of long black hair floating around them,
+suppose their visitors to be a company of mermaids! From all accounts
+many of these girls are really beautiful. In stature they are somewhat
+diminutive, whereas the men average over six feet. As in Tahiti and
+other tropical climates, the constitution ripens at a very early age, so
+that mere children may be seen playing with their own babies instead of
+dolls. Happily the responsibilities of housekeeping do not weigh heavily
+in these isles, where nature is so generous, the climate so genial, and
+food so abundant.
+
+I am told that the bread-fruit tree in particular flourishes in the
+Marquesas to an extent unknown elsewhere, and grows to an enormous
+size—the ripe fruit, either freshly gathered or in its manufactured form
+of _poi_, forming the staple food of the isles.
+
+The Marquesans have the same love of flowers as their neighbours, and
+the girls vie one with another in producing the loveliest garlands,
+bracelets, and anklets, sometimes of blossoms and leaves intertwined,
+but more often of single flowers, plucked from their calyx and strung
+together on a thin fibre of _tappa_, while snowy buds take the place of
+pearl ear-rings. The fragrant white blossoms of a large tree are those
+most in favour.
+
+But the permanent adornment is that of tattooing, which the Marquesans
+have brought to greater perfection than any other South Sea Islanders,
+except perhaps the Maoris of New Zealand, their very fair skin affording
+a tempting parchment for the artist’s work. The patterns are quaint, and
+very elaborately worked out in every conceivable variety of curve. Some
+of the older men are thus decorated from head to foot. Even the face is
+not spared, a favourite pattern being a strongly marked triangle, the
+base sweeping across the lips from ear to ear, whence the other lines
+ascend, crossing both eyelids, to meet on the shaven crown. Other men
+prefer three broad stripes carried straight across the face,—one across
+the eyes, a second across the nose, a third sweeping across the mouth
+from ear to ear. A really well-tattooed man is a sort of walking volume
+of illustrated natural history, so numerous may be the strange creatures
+of earth, sea, and air, delineated on his much-enduring skin,—birds and
+butterflies, fishes and crabs, lizards and snakes, octopi and star-fish,
+flowers and fruits, all traced in delicate blue lines on a most silky,
+olive-coloured surface. Those who go in for artistic unity of design
+sometimes have the stem of some graceful tree traced along the spine,
+while the spreading branches extend on either shoulder and droop down
+the sides, and delicately traced vines twine spirally round arms and
+legs, birds and insects appearing among the leaves.
+
+I have been told that in one of the beautiful valleys lying farther
+round the isle than Nukuheva harbour there are Cyclopean remains,
+somewhat suggestive of the tombs of the Toui Tongas which we saw in the
+Friendly Isles. Among the dense groves which clothe the base of the
+mountain lie a series of vast terraces, each about a hundred yards long
+by twenty wide, and disposed one above another on the mountain-side,
+like gigantic steps. They are built of oblong blocks of stone, some of
+which are fifteen feet long by five or six wide. Though perfectly
+smooth, they bear no mark of any tool, and are laid without cement. Huge
+trees have taken root in the crevices, and their interlacing boughs now
+form a dense canopy above this monument of a forgotten race, concerning
+which the Marquesans themselves have no tradition. So impenetrable is
+the growth of vines in that green wilderness, that a stranger might pass
+the spot—nay, actually cross the terraces by the native track—without
+observing them. It is another of the mysteries of the stone age.
+
+But, on a much smaller scale, there exist in the Marquesas _marais_
+similar to those of Tahiti, which have been the temples and the tombs of
+the present inhabitants ever since they knew their own history,—and even
+these are sufficiently large to make one marvel how they could have been
+erected by a race ignorant of all mechanical arts, and owning only such
+rude stone implements. Beside the _marais_ there are a vast number of
+very old stone foundations, similar to those on which the houses are
+invariably raised, probably telling of a diminished population. The man
+who, in the present day, wishes to build himself a bamboo house, can
+therefore appropriate one of these ready-made foundations, and find the
+hardest part of his house-building already accomplished.
+
+I cannot learn that there is any trace of active volcanic agency now
+existing in the Marquesas, though in some districts sulphur-springs and
+mineral waters of various kinds have been found.
+
+On the island of Hiva-oa (or Dominica), in the valley of Ta-oa, about
+one mile and a half from the beach, and about 300 feet above the level
+of the sea, there is a hole two inches in diameter, from which, when the
+sea is rough, there rises a strongly sulphurous steam, accompanied by a
+loud noise, like the steam-pipe of a steamer. When the water is smooth
+there is only a slight noise and no steam, only a strong smell of
+sulphur.
+
+My attention has just been called to an exceedingly interesting letter
+from the Rev. Titus Coan, which appeared ten years ago in a Hawaiian
+paper. He had just returned to Honolulu after visiting the Marquesas in
+the little mission-ship Morning Star. He speaks of the foreign
+settlement at Taiohae or Nukuheva, as having been allowed to fall into
+great disrepair. The jetty, the forts, the arsenal, the fine road
+sweeping round the head of the bay—in fact, all the former works and
+improvements of the French—are fast going to decay, and only a few
+hundred natives, in place of the thousands of a few years earlier.
+
+He was most courteously received by the French bishop, who gave him much
+information about the people, and spoke hopefully of progress made on
+the north-west isles of the group, though the pagan tribes on the
+windward isles, especially on Dominica and Magdalena, were still wild
+and defiant.
+
+Mr Coan then visited the convent, where the French Sisters devote their
+lives to the training of Marquesan girls. About sixty girls board in the
+large airy house, their ages ranging from four to sixteen—happy,
+healthy-looking girls, lovingly taught by gentle, highly educated French
+ladies, and everything done to make their lives so cheery, that there
+may be no hankering for heathen pleasures. Of these girls, Mr Coan
+remarks that he has rarely seen more perfect specimens of physical
+organisation, brighter faces, or more active minds, than among the
+Marquesan children, many of whom are beautiful, bright, and blithesome.
+
+A corresponding school for boys is established, under a French secular
+teacher.
+
+Though the settlement of Taiohae cannot be reckoned as very “go-ahead,”
+it certainly sounds as if it might be a singularly attractive
+resting-place—the houses smothered in luxuriant foliage, both indigenous
+and exotic, ornamental and fruit-bearing; banyan, iron-wood, candle-nut,
+hybiscus, palms, bread-fruit, orange, citron, lemon, guava, South Sea
+chestnut, and ever so many other trees, all growing in richest beauty;
+and every rock and pinnacle is carpeted with mosses and grasses, or
+festooned with tropical vines. The precipitous crags all around are so
+thickly clothed, that they suggest green velvet draperies striped with
+lines of molten silver; these are merry cascades, falling from sources
+3000 feet above the valley, and forming three large streams, which dash
+among rocky boulders on their seaward way.
+
+But Mr Coan seems to award the palm of beauty to the valley of Atuona on
+Isle Hiva-oa. He says it is a broad, deep valley, umbrageous and
+peaceful, and watered by a limpid, babbling stream. The trees are
+magnificent, and the vines run riot in their luxuriance. The great
+rampart of rocks rising in the background is the highest point of all
+the islands, and it is usually wreathed with clouds. “The broken hills
+form columns, spurs, pinnacles, coves, and sharp lateral ribs. Some are
+round, some angular, some stratified, some laminated, some truncated,
+some pointed. They lie in all positions—horizontal, tilted,
+vertical—with heaps of scoria revealing their igneous origin. Rock is
+piled on rock, hill upon hill, ridge upon ridge, mountain upon
+mountain—serried, castellated, turreted, ... forming masses of confused
+harmony, defying all the art of the limner, the pen-and-ink painter, and
+the descriptive powers of man.”
+
+Now I do hope you sympathise in my ever-increasing regret at having
+missed my chance of visiting so marvellous a scene of beauty!
+
+The climate, too, must be delightful. It is soft and balmy, and the
+dense foliage affords such constant shade that even the rays of a
+tropical sun can only trickle through in bright gleams, while the
+cooling sea-breeze seems never to fail. Severe storms are rare, and
+hurricanes unknown in the group. In short, the climate is equable, mild,
+and wellnigh perfect.
+
+The mission party sailed from one beautiful isle to another, to visit
+the teachers already established, and to bring them fresh helpers. They
+landed on Uahuna, which, like the other isles, is high, broken, and
+precipitous. Their arrival was an unexpected joy to the good Laioha and
+his wife Ewa, who had been settled here about a year previously, and
+already had made a considerable impression on the people. Laioha blew a
+loud blast on a horn; and its echoes, reaching the villages nestled
+among precipices far up the valley, soon brought together about fifty
+wild men and women—some of whom had already made considerable progress
+in reading and writing.
+
+At Paumau about a hundred people assembled under the trees, on the
+beautiful shore. Many carried spears and war-clubs, whaling-spades or
+shark-spears. Some had the head shaven all over; some in zones and
+belts, vertical or horizontal; some on one side, some on the other; some
+with a tuft of hair on the crown, some on the forehead, some on the
+occiput, and some hanging over the right or the left ear. And thus it
+was with the tattooing. The wildest taste and most fantastic and
+capricious figures were displayed upon the face, arms, legs, and over
+the whole body. Children are not tattooed; females but little,
+consequently they look like another and a milder race of beings.
+
+To this strange crowd Mr Coan and his friends endeavoured to explain
+some of the simplest doctrines of Christianity. One old warrior, heavily
+tattooed, and with closely shaven head, who carried a large green leaf
+to shade his eyes, was witty and sceptical, and brought up many
+objections to the new creed. But presently he confessed that it was
+good, and bade Mr Coan speak also to his chief. The latter, on hearing
+of a heaven in which there was neither fighting nor hunger, remarked
+that “it would be a good place for cowards and lazy folk, who are afraid
+to fight, and too indolent to climb cocoa-palms or bread-fruit trees.”
+His repartees excited laughter in the crowd; but after a while, he, like
+the old warrior, declared that it was good, and that he would forsake
+heathenism.
+
+Pressing the hand of his new white friend, he said, “_Kaoha oe_,”—“Love
+to thee.” He became serious and earnest, and listened with fixed
+interest to all the words then spoken; and the meeting only dispersed
+when darkness overshadowed the land. A fine old lady of eighty, one of
+the early converts (who at her baptism had added the name of Eve to her
+own native name of Hipa-Hipa), was brought forward by her friends, and
+clasping Mr Coan’s hands, placed them on her own silvery head, as she
+welcomed him for his work’s sake.
+
+The mission-ship next proceeded to Hakahekau, on Isle Uapou, to carry
+needful supplies to the Rev. S. Kauwealoha, who has laboured for several
+years among its beautiful valleys and wild cannibal inhabitants. He is
+described as a man of great energy and activity, both physical and
+intellectual, with a large and generous heart, ever ready to put head,
+heart, and hand to any work which will help others, or advance the cause
+of Christ. His talents are versatile. He can work in wood, iron, stone,
+and mortar; can build a good house; construct, rig, row, and sail a
+boat; or act as pilot in all the harbours of the group. He will work
+bareheaded and barefooted, and can swim and dive in the surf like a
+porpoise. He is very intelligent, speaks and reads English tolerably,
+and, by getting hold of an occasional newspaper, he manages to keep up
+with the current news of the age. As a missionary he is earnest in
+prayer, energetic in preaching, and firm in principle, and foreigners
+and natives alike respect him.
+
+While the vessel was landing its stores, its passengers explored scenery
+of indescribable loveliness. Passing through a valley rich with
+luxuriant vegetation, they reached a point three miles in the interior,
+where they commanded a general view of the sublime landscape. “Within a
+vast amphitheatre of rugged hills, which send down their serrated spurs
+to the shore, buttressed by bold and lofty precipices, are eight
+remarkable cones, 200 to 300 feet high, and 50 to 100 feet in diameter,
+standing as everlasting columns against the sky, giving to the whole the
+character of a castellated fortress. The fantastic forms produced by the
+force of ancient volcanic fires, by the abrading action of winds, rain,
+and chemical agencies on these isles, are amazing.”
+
+Passing on to Isle Futuiva, the vessel anchored in Hanavave Bay,
+embowered in magnificent hills, with towering rocks like lofty minarets
+guarding its entrance. Mr Coan says the scene was so grand as to be
+almost overpowering. He rowed for some miles along the wonderful coast,
+which he believes to be almost without an equal in nature. Rocky cliffs,
+towering domes, and lofty precipices, rent, grooved, and fluted,
+everywhere charmed the eye; and from these bold heights, sometimes of
+2000 feet, silvery cascades leaped to the sea.
+
+Here and there shaded dells opened along the rocky shore. Small valleys
+filled with fruit-bearing trees, and murmuring with living waters,
+appeared as if by enchantment. But all were desolate, for fierce bloody
+war had slain the inhabitants, or driven them from these Edens of
+beauty.
+
+For the tribes of Hanavave Bay have waged ceaseless war with those of
+Omoa, and the latter seem of late years to have had the best of it.
+
+At Omoa (which is separated from Hanavave by dividing ridges of
+inaccessible crags and precipices), the Hawaiian teachers assembled to
+meet Mr Coan and his friends. The party consisted of the Rev. S.
+Kauwealoha, the Rev. J. Kekela, the Rev. A. Kaukau, the Rev. T. W.
+Kaiwi, the Rev. Z. Hapuku, and Mr T. W. Laioha. The names are
+characteristic. So is the fact of the Rev. Z. Hapuku going out to meet
+the ship, by diving through raging surf in which no boat could live,
+that he might pilot the vessel to another bay, where the boats found a
+landing-place on a smooth sand-beach; and the visitors were led to the
+mission-house by an avenue, cut like a long tunnel, through the hybiscus
+and cotton shrubs.
+
+At Omoa a large proportion of the native converts had assembled for
+church services. About seventy persons were present. In the morning a
+new pastor was ordained to the work of the ministry. In the afternoon
+seventeen adults and two children were baptised, and afterwards the Holy
+Communion was administered to about forty communicants, nearly all of
+whom had but a few years, or even months, previously, been reclaimed
+from heathenism and wild cannibal orgies.
+
+The schools of Omoa were examined on the following day, and about
+seventy scholars were found under tuition, of whom fifty-four could
+read, and many had made some progress in arithmetic and geography.
+
+As if in special contrast to this meeting of the Christians, the heathen
+Marquesans were engaged in some curious ceremonies, in honour of a
+celebrated prophetess who had died six weeks previously. Her name was
+Kauakamikihei. They had built a house for her, 12 feet wide by 24 long,
+and 48 feet high. On the top of this house they placed a target of white
+native cloth (there called _kapa_), and supposed to represent the moon.
+At this the men fired their muskets, and shouts of triumph greeted the
+lucky shots.
+
+Afterwards a great company of tattooed savages rushed to the shore, with
+wild shouts, carrying a sacred canoe, which was covered with a broad
+flat frame of bamboo, on which was erected a small round house, covered
+with mats. In this were placed a live pig, a dog, and a cock, also some
+bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a bowl of _poi_. The canoe was much
+ornamented, and rigged with mast, and sail of _kapa_. With much shouting
+it was launched, and pushed by bold swimmers through the roaring surf
+into the open sea, where they left it and returned to shore. The canoe
+drifted slowly out of the bay, but struck on the northern headland,
+where it was in danger of being dashed to pieces on the rocks, when a
+native ran round the harbour and once more shoved off the frail bark,
+which sailed out to sea with its living freight. This ceremony was a
+final offering to the god whom the dead prophetess or priestess had
+served, and closed the season of _koina_ or _tabu_, which had lasted six
+weeks, during which all manner of servile work or vain recreation were
+alike forbidden.
+
+From these frequent allusions to heavy surf breaking on the shore, you
+may infer that the coral barrier-reef is wanting on most of the
+Marquesan isles. The fact is, that in many cases, these volcanic crags
+rise so precipitously, from so great a depth, that the diligent corals
+have failed to gain a resting-place, and so the sea dashes on the shore
+with unabated violence.
+
+Strangely in contrast with these picturesque volcanic isles, is that
+other group over which, also, I grieve as over a lost inheritance.
+
+The Paumotus (_i.e._, cloud of islands)—or, as we used to call it, the
+Low or Dangerous Archipelago—is a cluster of eighty very flat
+coral-isles, most of which are of the nature of atolls, some shaped like
+a horse-shoe, others so nearly circular that only small canoes can enter
+the calm lagoon which occupies the centre; and some are perfect rings,
+having no visible connection whatever with the ocean, which,
+nevertheless, finds a subterranean passage through which the waters rush
+in a strong current as the tides rise and fall. Such lagoons as these
+are generally encircled by a belt of swamp, which can only be crossed by
+laying down pathways of long branches; these act in the same way as huge
+Canadian snowshoes, and enable the light-footed natives to pass in
+safety across the treacherous green surface to the margin of the lake,
+where they keep small canoes in which to paddle about in search of eels
+and shrimps, and various kinds of fish. The water-supply is generally
+deficient, and only by sinking wells in the coral-sand can even brackish
+water be obtained. There are, however, exceptions to this rule, and some
+isles have good springs. But at best, the people depend greatly on their
+cocoa-nuts for drink even more than for food, and happily this supply
+rarely fails them. The coral-bed supplies neither soil nor water
+sufficient to raise any regular crops. Here and there a sort of caladium
+with edible root grows wild, but yams or _taro_ are only known as
+imported luxuries. Forest-trees and scrub, however, contrive to find a
+living, and form a dense growth over most of the isles; and here and
+there clumps of carefully cultivated bananas, orange-trees, or
+bread-fruit, tell of a richer and deeper soil, probably accumulated with
+patient toil. Fig-trees and limes also flourish.
+
+Some of the lagoon-reefs have a diameter of about forty miles, and only
+rise above the water in small isles, forming a dotted circle.
+
+I believe it is generally supposed that such coral-rings as these have
+in many cases been the encircling reef formed round some volcanic isle,
+which has gradually subsided, whereas the reef-building corals have
+continually risen higher and higher, so as to remain in the shallow
+water, in which alone they can live, and thus in course of ages the
+condition of things becomes reversed. The once fertile isle disappears
+beneath the ocean, whereas the coral-reef, rising to just below
+high-water mark, gradually accumulates shells and seaweeds; the sea
+deposits drift of all sorts, and, little by little, a soil is formed
+which becomes fertile, and presently cocoa-nuts drift from far-away
+isles, and weeds of many sorts are carried by the birds, or float on the
+currents, and so the isle becomes fertile—a ring instinct with life,
+rising perpendicularly from the deep sea on the outer side, and very
+often on the inner side also.
+
+Where this is the case, and the inner lagoon appears as fathomless as
+the outer sea, it is supposed that the atoll has been formed on the rim
+of a sunken crater, colonies of living corals having settled on its
+surface so soon as it subsided below high-water mark. This theory seems
+the more probable, from the manner in which you find these circular
+coral-isles densely clustered in certain localities, and none in other
+groups, just as in some regions we find innumerable extinct craters
+covering the whole surface of the land, and can readily imagine that
+should such a district subside, each cup-like crater might soon be
+covered with corals.
+
+As in some craters the lava-flow has rent a gap near the summit whereby
+to escape, and in other craters it has found for itself a subterranean
+passage, leaving the upper crust unbroken, so in these atolls, some are
+perfect rings, and the tides ebb and flow within the lagoons by
+submarine channels, while others have an open passage, deep enough for a
+ship to sail into the inner lake.
+
+The principal island in the Paumotu group is that of Manga Reva, a
+cluster of five isles, all within one encircling reef. The main isle is
+a basaltic mass, rising 2000 feet above the sea-level. It is the most
+fertile of the group, and is the headquarters of the French bishop and
+his clergy. The Paumotus have a population of about 5000 persons, the
+majority of whom are Roman Catholics. They are a fine independent race,
+and in old days were accounted brave warriors.
+
+Now a large number make their living by diving for the great pearl
+shell-oysters, which are found in many of the lagoons at a depth of from
+ten to twenty fathoms, attached to the coral-rock by a strong
+byssus—_i.e._, a bunch of silky golden-brown filaments, which the diver
+cuts with his knife, and so secures his prize. This silken cable is
+attached to the muscle of the fish itself, and passes through an
+aperture at the hinge. An expert diver can remain under water for about
+three minutes. In some of the isles women are accounted the most skilful
+divers, especially in deep water, where the largest shells are found,
+some actually measuring eighteen inches across—such beautiful great
+shields of gleaming mother-of-pearl.
+
+The pearls themselves are not very abundant, and are generally found in
+the less perfect shells, the inmates of which are either sickly or have
+inadvertently admitted grains of coral-sand, which they have been unable
+to eject. But sometimes the large healthy shells contain one beautiful
+perfect pearl, not lodged in the muscle in the ordinary way, but lying
+loose in the shell; and though it is certain that many are lost through
+carelessness, a considerable number have taken high rank among the noted
+pearls of the civilised world. I believe that those composing the
+Empress Eugénie’s splendid necklace were collected in the Paumotus, and
+that Queen Victoria’s pearl, which is valued at £6000, was also found
+there. In heathen days all the best pearls were treasured in the idol
+temples, and some of the early adventurers are known to have made a very
+lucrative business by exchanging cheap muskets for bags of pearls. The
+same disease or discomfort which produces these lovely gems often takes
+a form less valued, but still very beautiful—large distorted pearly
+lumps, often the size of two joints of the little finger, and assuming
+all manner of quaint forms, sometimes resembling a human hand. I have
+seen some which had been set as pins and brooches, which I thought very
+attractive.
+
+These, however, like the pearls themselves, are the accidental prizes of
+the divers. The regular article of traffic is the shell itself, which
+the traders buy from the natives at an average of £15 per ton, and sell
+in London at an average of over £100. They calculate that by hiring
+divers and working the beds themselves, the shell can be raised at less
+than £6 per ton. In former years the annual harvest of Paumotu
+pearl-shell was immensely in excess of the present supply, which is said
+not to average above 200 tons—the natural result of allowing the beds no
+time to recruit. Doubtless there are vast beds untouched, at lower
+levels, where the divers do not care to venture; and it is supposed that
+the outer face of the barrier-reef is probably one vast oyster-bed, but
+the bravest divers dare not venture to attempt work beneath the awful
+breakers.
+
+Certain it is, that the colonies in the lagoons are annually replenished
+by myriads of infant pearl-oysters, which have been spawned in the deep
+sea, and which, in the months of December and March, may be seen
+floating in with the rising tide; tiny glittering shells, a quarter or a
+half inch in diameter, like fairy coins. Once in those calm waters, the
+young oysters apparently have no wish again to seek the stormy outer
+seas, for they are never seen floating out with the retiring tide. It
+takes seven years for an oyster to attain maturity, so only those which
+settle in deep water have a chance of reaching a ripe age.
+
+Strange to say, these creatures, which appear to be so immovably
+attached to their coral-rock, are proved to be migratory. Not only do
+the closely packed young oysters detach their silken cables and move off
+in search of more roomy quarters, but even the heavy grown-up shells
+sometimes travel from one shelf in the coral to another, probably in
+search of better feeding-grounds. They are singularly capricious in the
+selection of their homes; in one lagoon they are abundant, and perhaps
+in the very next not an oyster is to be found: and no attempt to raise
+artificial beds, even by transporting masses of rock covered with young
+shells, has ever succeeded, although the surroundings are apparently
+identical in every respect. Of course they will not settle anywhere near
+sand, which, by any disturbing cause, might enter their shells, and
+cause them as much inconvenience as do the innumerable tiny red
+crabs,—uninvited guests, which take up their quarters in the
+oyster-shells, to the great aggravation of the helpless owners.
+
+The lagoons in which these fisheries are carried on are indescribably
+lovely: marine gardens, in which every detail of beauty is enhanced by
+being seen through the clearest crystal waters, which lend a glamour as
+of a magic glass to everything seen through them, whether sea-weed or
+shell, zoophyte or coral, gliding snake or rainbow-coloured fish. Here
+and there are patches of pure white coral-sand, which serve to reveal
+the exquisite colour of the aqua-marine water; while the golden seaweeds
+appear purple, and the corals seem to vary in hue, according to the
+depth at which they lie beneath the surface. It is all illusion, for the
+flowers of the sea are always disappointing when gathered. But there on
+the coral-ledges lie the great oysters and many other shells, including
+the huge clam, which is accounted excellent food. The pearl-oyster is
+only eaten in times of scarcity, as it is very coarse and unpalatable,
+though not unwholesome.
+
+Diving for clams generally falls to the share of the women; and many a
+one has met her doom from getting nipped by the ponderous dentated
+shell, and so held prisoner in the depths, never to rise again. I heard
+several horrible stories on this subject in Fiji, and here new ones are
+added to the list. Quite recently a poor fellow fishing on one of the
+Paumotu atolls dived to the bottom of the lagoon, feeling for
+pearl-oysters, when he unluckily slipped the fingers of his left hand
+into a gaping clam-shell, which instantly closed and held him as if in a
+vice. The shell lay in a hole in the coral, so that it was impossible to
+reach the byssus by which it was moored in that safe harbour; the
+wretched man, in agony of mind and of body, severed his own fingers with
+his knife, and rose to the surface, having indeed escaped drowning, but
+being maimed for life. There have been other cases when a diver, thus
+imprisoned, has with greater deliberation contrived to insert his knife
+into the shell, and so force it open sufficiently to release his other
+hand.
+
+In gathering clams, the aim of the diver is to stab the gaping mollusc
+with a sharp-pointed stake, and then with his knife cut the silky
+filaments by which it adheres to the rock, after which he slips both
+hands below the huge shell, and endeavours to raise it;—no easy matter,
+considering what ponderous monsters many of the clams are—a single shell
+making an admirable bath for a child, pure as white marble, and highly
+polished by nature. In many Roman Catholic churches these large shells
+are used for holy water. The smaller clams, such as are generally used
+for food, are often picked up on the reef in basket-loads; and many a
+careless child has playfully thrust its little fingers into a gaping
+shell, an invasion promptly resented by the owner. Happily the scream of
+agony generally brings some friends to the rescue: and strong as is the
+armour of the poor besieged clam, it offers one weak point to the
+enemy—namely, the cavity through which the byssus passes; a skilful stab
+through this aperture causes the inmate to relax its hold, and so the
+child is released—but many a finger is lost in this manner. The
+multitude of these shell-fish annually consumed on all the isles is
+something incredible, and the supply is apparently inexhaustible. It is
+not generally known that these shells also occasionally yield very
+valuable and lustrous pearls of peculiar brilliancy.
+
+But the treasury of the sea, which lies safe beyond the reach of
+covetous human beings, is that clean coral-sand which glimmers far below
+the coral caves where the oysters congregate, and to which, for untold
+ages, have dropped the pearls which fell from the gaping shell, when the
+seven-year-old oyster, having lived his appointed time, melted away in
+his native brine, and let go the treasures he could no longer clasp.
+What a dream of delight, even in fancy, to gather up those
+
+          “Pale glistening pearls and rainbow-coloured shells,
+          Bright things that gleam unrecked of and in vain”!
+
+I suppose the water-babies of these seas look upon pearls as we used to
+look on John o’ Groats—probably with less reverence, as being so much
+more common; and perhaps they are right, for the one was only a disease,
+and the other a wondrously contrived little home.
+
+One valuable creature which loves the white coral-sand as cordially as
+the pearl-oyster dreads it, is the black _bêche-de-mer_,[57] a very
+important item in the harvest of these seas, and one which affords a
+living to a multitude of white men and brown. There are four different
+sorts, of which the black is the largest. It resembles a gigantic leech,
+and grows to a length of about thirty inches. It is a gregarious animal,
+and is found in companies of brother-slugs wherever the water is
+clearest and most perfect peace prevails. It is supposed to be blind,
+and its movements are so slow as to be imperceptible. It has a red
+cousin, which seems to enjoy tumult and noise as much as the black kind
+loves calm. Its favourite home is on the outer edge of the coral-reef,
+where the mighty breakers are for ever raging.
+
+The _bêche-de-mer_ fishers have on the whole rather a pleasant sort of
+gipsy life. Having chartered a small vessel, they engage a set of
+natives, both men and women, to work with them for so many moons; and as
+it is just the sort of occupation which comes natural to these men, they
+generally have a cheery time of it. They anchor at some favourable spot,
+probably a desert island, and build a cluster of palm-leaf huts for
+themselves, another in which to smoke, and so cure the fish and slugs,
+and to act as storehouse. However rude may be their own shelter, the
+fish-houses must be made water-tight, lest the heavy rains should beat
+through, and destroy the precious store.
+
+The men carry with them a store of yams and cocoa-nuts, and trust to
+their luck for a daily fish supply, which rarely, if ever, fails, and
+has the charm of considerable variety, including most of the finny
+tribes, turtles and their eggs, clams, cockles, and other
+shell-fish—occasionally sea-birds’ eggs are added to the feast. Whatever
+is caught is supposed to go to be handed over to the native overseer for
+equal division, that none may hunger. So when the day’s work is done, a
+delicious bathe is followed by a cheery supper, and then the men lie
+round bright wood-fires, indulging in never-ending talk or songs, or
+else dancing quaint savage _mékés_ in the moonlight.
+
+Every morning they start at early dawn armed with long many-pronged
+forks, to collect the treasures brought in by the tide. If the sea is
+calm they go to the outer edge of the reef, in search of the red
+_bêche-de-mer_, which love the sea-foam; but when the surf comes
+thundering in with mad violence, then the fishers have a quiet day with
+the black slugs; for these they must dive perhaps to a depth of twelve
+fathoms.
+
+As I once before mentioned to you, these creatures eject a fluid which
+blisters the skin most painfully; so instead of carrying them in a
+basket, it is customary for the fisher to have a miniature canoe which
+he can drag over the reef by means of a rope, or float on the calm
+lagoon, should he have occasion to dive; into this canoe he throws all
+treasure-trove, and when it is full, empties it into one of the larger
+boats. Noonday is the most favourable hour for the diver, as the sun’s
+vertical rays then most clearly illumine the submarine depths where he
+seeks his game.
+
+When a fair supply has been secured, the fishers return to the
+settlement. Sometimes they busy themselves on the way by cleaning the
+slugs, which is done by cutting them open with a sharp knife, so as to
+let the dangerous blistering fluid and intestines fall into the sea. But
+the more cautious men defer this process till they reach the shore, when
+they pop the live animals into a boiling caldron, and therein stir them
+diligently for some minutes, after which they can clean them with
+greater safety to themselves. They are then transferred to another
+caldron and stewed for half an hour, after which they are taken to the
+drying-house, whence they reappear like bits of dry leather, and require
+to be soaked for several days previous to use.
+
+It is necessary to cook the Holothuria as quickly as possible, because
+so soon as they are dead they become a gelatinous mass like treacle,
+with a very bad smell, and all adhere together, so that no use can be
+made of them. So if caldrons are lacking, native ovens are at once
+prepared: a hole is dug in the earth, and a fire kindled, whereby stones
+are thoroughly heated, and on these the slugs are laid, and covered with
+green leaves and old matting, and earth over all. Thus they are steamed
+for an hour, till they are dried up and shrivelled, after which each is
+stretched open with little bits of stick, and laid on the drying stages
+in the smoking-house, over a fire of green wood, which produces a dense
+smoke. This must be kept up for three days, after which this leathery
+and uninviting delicacy is packed in palm-leaf baskets ready for the
+China market. But it must from time to time be spread in the scorching
+sun to dry it more thoroughly, as any lingering moisture will inevitably
+reveal itself on the long journey, and the produce of many a month’s
+hard labour has thus been rendered worthless.
+
+I do not think that _bêche-de-mer_ soup ever finds much favour with
+Europeans, but I have eaten it myself with much satisfaction, which is
+far more than I can say for turtle in any form, as prepared in the
+Pacific. Turtle-steaks sound well, but I cannot say they are nice. I
+think they are generally cut from turtle which have been roasted whole
+in native ovens. I believe the scientific cook invariably lays the
+turtle on its back, that the precious green fat and oil may not be lost;
+and the prudent housekeeper preserves the surplus of a feast-day, by
+cutting up slices of turtle-steak, which she stores in cocoa-nut shells,
+pouring in liquid fat, and tying a heated banana-leaf over the shell, in
+lieu of hermetically sealing these potted meats. As a good large turtle
+weighs fully 400 lb. (and some are occasionally captured weighing from
+600 to 700 lb.), you can understand that a chief may very well allow
+himself to store up a portion for the morrow, without depriving his
+followers of their fair share.
+
+But if turtle-meat is unpleasant, still more so, to my uneducated taste,
+are turtle-eggs, several hundred of which are sometimes found inside a
+large mother turtle. But they are generally discovered carefully buried
+in the sand well above high-water mark. They are quite round and
+leathery, resembling small white tennis-balls. In the breeding season,
+the female turtle leaves her mate beyond the barrier-reef, and she comes
+ashore, alone, at high tide, generally selecting the full moon. Having
+chosen a suitable spot for her nest, she scratches a large hole in the
+sand, in the middle of which she digs a funnel, two or three feet in
+depth, and therein proceeds to lay about a hundred eggs, after which she
+carefully covers them over with sand, and smooths away all trace of her
+visit. Then she returns to the reef and there waits for the next high
+tide, when she rejoins her mate. For some reason best known to herself,
+she generally returns ashore either on the ninth or eighteenth night—a
+fact well known to the natives, who scan the beach eagerly for the broad
+track left on the smooth white sand by this midnight visitor.
+
+When poor Mrs Turtle becomes aware of the presence of her natural foe,
+man, she generally tries to hide, and will lie motionless for hours; but
+should this hope prove vain, she makes for the sea at railway speed, her
+flippers acting as paddles, by which she jerks herself along. Should her
+foe outstrip her in the race, he contrives to turn her over, when she
+lies on her back more helpless than even a fat sheep in the like
+predicament.
+
+I daresay that to all of you, in England, the accounts of these South
+Sea groups sound so much alike, that you can scarcely sympathise with my
+repining over the omission of a few. But each has its own distinctive
+peculiarities, which you only realise by living in it for a while, and
+making friends with its inhabitants.
+
+Therefore I fear that these “lines left out” will remain to me a
+lifelong regret. They have all the pain that attaches to “truth seen too
+late,” which is the crown of woe.
+
+I only hope that you will profit by my sad experience, and that should
+you ever have a chance of seeing the Marquesas and the Paumotus, you
+will not let it slip. But such luck as visiting a French colony in a
+French man-of-war does not often present itself!
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVIII.
+      TAHITIAN HOSPITALITY—A SOUTH SEA STORE—A BATHING PICNIC—THE
+ MARQUESANS—TATTOOING—ANCIENT GAMES OF TAHITI—MALAY DESCENT—THEORY OF A
+                          NORTHERLY MIGRATION.
+
+
+                                            LA MAISON BRANDÈRE, PAPEETE,
+                                                _Wednesday, 21st_.
+
+Already ten days have slipped away since we watched the Maramma sail for
+Honolulu, and each morning I awake with a feeling of pleasure that I am
+still in this delightful isle. Would that you could look on the lovely
+scene on which my eyes rest with the first glimmer of dawn, and which
+now lies outspread before me, as I sit in this cool verandah opening off
+my large bedroom on the upper storey! It is a verandah all closed in
+with _jalousies_, screening its occupants from the outside world; while
+they, themselves unseen, look down on the brightest, most animated scene
+you can imagine.
+
+Long before sunrise the pretty native boats, with double sails, arrive
+from all parts of the isle, bringing their cargo of fish and fruit for
+the market, which is held in a large building in the town. But as the
+boats are unloaded, their wares are outspread on the grass just below
+these windows, and the most active housewives and purveyors for the
+ships come here to secure the first choice of luscious fruits and of
+fishes, as beautiful to the eye as they are tempting to the palate.
+These are of every shade of blue and green, scarlet and crimson, and
+pale yellow with lilac stripes. The large bright-green fish are
+generally eaten raw; and occasionally the purchasers, whose appetites
+are sharpened by the fresh morning air, cannot resist an early breakfast
+_al fresco_. The air is balmy and delicious, like a heavenly midsummer
+morning in Europe; and all the girls have light woollen shawls. (Real
+Scotch tartans are in high favour, and are worn in true Highland
+fashion, over one shoulder and round the body.)
+
+The fruit-supply is brought in large baskets. Just now there are
+quantities of mangoes, oranges, and Abercarder pears (_des avocats_ they
+are called here, where French permeates all things, as it did in England
+when the Norman conquerors changed Saxon oxen, sheep, and hens, to beef,
+mutton, and fowls). But these minor fruits are trifling luxuries. The
+mainstay of life is the _faees_ or wild banana, which here takes the
+place of the yams and _taro_ of the groups further west.
+
+I think I have already described this peculiar plant, which bears its
+enormous bunch of fruit growing upright from the centre of its crown of
+large leaves, instead of drooping below them, as is the manner of all
+other bananas and plantains. These clusters vary from two to four feet
+in length; and I constantly see a bunch so long and so heavy, that it is
+carried to market slung from a pole, resting on the shoulders of two
+men, just as in the old pictures of the Israelitish spies bearing the
+grapes of Eshcol, which were the delight of our childhood. It must be
+toilsome work to carry these weighty spoils of the mountains from the
+remote ravines where they chiefly flourish.
+
+All these heaps of golden fruit form a brilliant foreground to the
+beautiful harbour beyond, which at this early hour reflects only the
+pale, glowing daffodil hues of a cloudless sky, against which the
+exquisite outline of Moorea stands out in clear relief. Suddenly its
+delicate pearly grey is flushed with rose colour, as the first ray of
+the rising sun touches those lofty summits, and veinings of tender blue
+mark the course of deep glens and corries, or the shadows cast by
+prominent crags and pinnacles.
+
+Nearer—so near, indeed, that we can distinguish friendly faces on the
+decks—lie the French men-of-war; and as the light touches them, their
+dead white changes to cream colour, and they and their unfurled sails,
+and the clothes hung out to dry, are all reflected in the calm water.
+So, too, are the various trading ships, and the great hulk of a large
+iron vessel, which caught fire fifteen months ago when she was near the
+Marquesas. Her crew took to their boats, and two of these arrived here
+safely. A good while after, the deserted ship, still burning, drifted
+down towards here. The Seignelay went out and towed in the wreck. She
+had been laden with coal, and this had run into a sort of semi-fluid,
+tarry condition, and to this hour it is still smouldering; and after a
+shower of rain, steam and smoke still rise from the poor old hulk, which
+is so red from rust that you would think she had been painted vermilion.
+It is a vexed question whether she can ever be turned to account, or
+whether she should not be towed outside the reef, and there sunk.[58]
+
+Just beyond the shipping, inside the harbour, is a small island
+fortified by the French. The incongruity of ramparts and guns is hidden
+by foliage of hybiscus and palms; and it forms one item in the beauty of
+the scene.
+
+This is the view from the front of the Red House. The back windows look
+over green mango-trees, and past the spire of the Roman Catholic church,
+to the great purply mountains of the interior. So you see that, although
+this big square three-storeyed house of very red brick, encased in
+closed verandahs, is not in itself an ornamental building, its
+surroundings are very lovely. And of the kindliness that reigns within
+it, words fail me to tell. It is an atmosphere of genial cordiality, in
+which each guest is at once made to feel as welcome, and as thoroughly
+at home, as any member of the large family. It is a kindness as
+unconscious, but as real and as delightful, as the balmy air we breathe,
+and is as purely Tahitian. What would these warm-hearted open-handed
+people think of the measured cold reception of strangers in our grey
+British isles?
+
+To begin with, I discovered, on arriving here, that Mrs Brander had
+actually given me her own charming suite of rooms, to secure my having
+the fullest enjoyment of the lovely view and of the cool verandahs; so
+that I virtually am in solitary possession of this whole flat, with its
+large handsome drawing-room and cosy boudoir. I compare myself to one of
+the hermit-crabs which curl themselves into desirable shells, to the
+exclusion of the rightful owners! But my most hospitable hostess will
+not allow that she suffers any inconvenience; though she and her
+children have moved downstairs to share one huge room with any number of
+friends and relations, who spread their soft mattresses and pillows, and
+very gay quilts, and make themselves cosy for the night, just as the
+fancy takes them. The fine old mother has a house near, but very often
+she and the pretty sisters prefer to sleep here: so do sundry cousins
+and friends. There are also a number of Tahitian women of good birth who
+find a home, almost by right, in the house of every high chief, and who
+in return do him, or her, such light service as may be required. But of
+actual servants, as we understand the word, there are none.
+
+I find an element of great comfort in the presence of an English woman
+who acts as housekeeper—a most unexpected discovery in Tahiti! She
+brings my early breakfast of tea and fruit, and otherwise takes great
+care of me.
+
+We have a regular European breakfast and dinner, at which, however, only
+my hostess and her big brothers, with the Belgian manager and a few
+French officers, generally appear. The others prefer eating _à
+l’indigène_, sitting on their mats in another room, or beneath the shady
+trees; in fact, the native element is pretty strong, which gives this
+house half its interest. All the connections of the royal family, and a
+number of pretty _demi-blanche_ girls, dressed in flowing sacques, are
+continually coming and going; and once a week Mrs Brander has a
+reception for all the young folk, and for as many French officers as
+like to come; and they all dance and make merry,—rather more so, I
+think, than at the admiral’s Wednesday receptions at Government House,
+which are, nevertheless, very enjoyable.
+
+I had heard the praises of my hostess sung in no measured terms by all
+the members of the mission, both French and English, as well as by our
+consul and his family; but only since I have lived under her roof have I
+realised what a very exceptional woman she is. To the affectionate
+kindliness of a genuine Tahitian, she adds the Anglo-Jewish strength of
+character and business capacity inherited from her father; and the
+combination is one which would be truly remarkable in any woman, but is
+doubly so in one of the gentle daughters of the South Seas. The born
+chiefess is revealed in her large-hearted generosity to every creature
+that comes within her reach; though her extreme unselfishness makes her
+shrink from any expenditure that seems to tend only to her own comfort.
+She appears to be always thinking what she can do for other people—rich
+or poor, in all parts of the group. She has estates scattered all over
+these isles, and conducts all their business herself, as well as
+attending to everything connected with the great mercantile house
+created by her late husband. Though she has many assistants, she is
+emphatically its head, and not the smallest detail can be carried out
+without her sanction. Every business transaction, whether with the
+French Government, or foreign vessels requiring supplies, or her own
+trading ships, passes through her hands. Everything is done by her
+special order, and every business paper has to receive her signature.
+But she never seems to forget anything or any one; and, moreover, has
+time to prove herself a most devoted mother to her nine children—of whom
+one is married in Valparaiso, another here, some of the sons are at
+school in Scotland, and the baby daughters are the pets and darlings of
+this house.
+
+Mrs Brander owns a fleet of about twenty smart trading schooners, which
+run backwards and forwards between Tahiti and such points as San
+Francisco, Valparaiso, and New Zealand, carrying the cargoes of all
+sorts collected by other vessels (of the same fleet) in the surrounding
+isles and the neighbouring groups.
+
+These cargoes consist chiefly of _coppra_—that is, dried cocoa-nut
+kernel, broken into little bits for convenience of stowage on the far
+journey to England or other lands, where it is subjected to such heavy
+pressure as extracts the oil, leaving a residue of oil-cake for the
+fattening of British beeves. For the _gourmet_ of China, quantities of
+edible fungus and dried _bêche-de-mer_ are sent to San Francisco, whence
+they are passed on to Hong-Kong. Tons of large pearl-shells, measuring
+about eight inches across, with beautifully iridescent lining, go to
+make buttons and such articles, in all parts of the world; true pearls
+of considerable value are occasionally found in these, and a large
+number of average size. Of the fruits of the isles, oranges form the
+largest export, but vanilla, coffee, and various other products swell
+the list. At one time cotton was a good article of export, but it
+appears to have fallen into disfavour.
+
+The vessels return from their several destinations laden with every
+conceivable variety of goods. There is nothing that luxury can desire
+which does not find its way to these remote isles, from the newest scent
+to the finest dress materials—not even excepting silks and velvets,
+though for whose benefit these are imported, passes my comprehension.
+
+Truly wonderful is that compendium of all things needful, known as “a
+store,” and that of _La Maison Brandère_ is the largest in Papeete. Like
+“the merchant” of a Scotch village, magnified a thousandfold, the owner
+of a South Sea store must be ready to supply all the most incongruous
+demands which his customers can possibly invent, from white satin shoes
+to ship anchors. For he has not only to provide for the island
+population, but must be ready to supply any ships that happen to come
+into harbour with whatever they require. Fresh meats and preserved
+meats, New Zealand beef, Australian mutton, condensed milk and tinned
+butter, Californian “canned” vegetables and fruits, candles and lamps,
+oils of various kinds, firearms and gunpowder, hair-oil and brushes,
+wines and spirits, letter-paper and ledgers, books and framed pictures,
+cutlery of all sorts—from a penknife to a cutlass, or from a hair-pin to
+a harpoon—wine-glasses and tumblers, necklaces and brooches, crockery
+and physic: these, and a thousand other items, are all on hand, and
+appear at a moment’s notice.
+
+And as the store is the centre of all business, it is a general
+rendezvous; in fact, a sort of club, where pleasant cooling drinks are
+not unknown, and where much amusing gossip may be heard, for _that_ is
+an article not unknown even in Tahiti!
+
+Provisioning large vessels for long voyages is no easy matter here,
+where all animals have to be imported, as these beautiful hills and
+valleys afford very poor pasture-land, being all overrun with guava
+scrub. So shiploads of cattle are despatched from the Sandwich Isles, at
+very irregular intervals, by sailing ships, which sometimes are detained
+so long by contrary winds and calms, that the poor beasts are almost
+starved. The sheep are equally lean; and in fact, pork and fowls are
+about the only satisfactory meat-supply.
+
+                                                    _Thursday, 22d Nov._
+
+It is hard to think of you all, enduring the miseries of chill November,
+while we are revelling day after day, and night after night, in an
+atmosphere of balmy delight and clear blue heavens. Last night we all
+went to the admiral’s big reception, _au Gouvernement_, and a very gay
+scene it was, so many pretty women in very fresh, simple muslin
+sacques—only a few French ladies adhering to Parisian fashions. The
+ball-room has an excellent inlaid floor; and as the music is most
+enlivening, and the French naval officers enjoy dancing quite as much as
+any of the girls, they kept it up with great spirit. Of course the
+gardens are a very great attraction, and to the non-dancers are the
+favourite lounge. Good music, pleasant company, warm delicious nights,
+redolent of fragrant flowers—what more could you desire? Sometimes, when
+the band stops playing, we go for a moonlight row in the harbour, as far
+as the entrance through the barrier-reef, just for the pleasure of
+watching the breakers, and hearing their deafening roar.
+
+This morning, soon after sunrise, M. Viennot called for me in his
+carriage, and drove me to Papawa, where he has built himself a tiny
+house, near a lovely bathing-place. We found all the mission families
+already assembled, with a few other friends, including M. Puèch,
+commanding Le Limier, a French man-of-war. He at once set his sailors to
+catch fish for our picnic; and after a preliminary luncheon, we all
+scattered, to bathe, or stroll, as the case might be.
+
+I went off with a party of half-a-dozen handsome girls, of English and
+Tahitian birth, descendants of the early missionaries, whose children
+settled in the group, and married half-whites. They led the way to a
+delicious stream, narrow, and deep, and clear, and very still, edged
+with tall bulrushes. They supplied me with a bathing-dress like their
+own—namely, a _pareo_ of crimson, or scarlet and white calico, which
+they wore very gracefully draped from the neck. They wove great wreaths
+of green fern to protect their heads from the sun, and, of course, did
+not neglect me in the distribution. I thought they formed a most
+picturesque group.
+
+The stream was so inviting that we determined to follow it up for some
+distance. But the water, which at first only came to my shoulders, grew
+deeper and deeper, till I could not feel the ground, and I had to
+confess my inability to swim. So then these charming naiads clustered
+round me, and floated me smoothly along, as they swam a good half-mile
+to the upper stream. It was quite charming. Then they floated me back
+again, and by the time we rejoined the rest of the party, the sailors
+had caught a great supply of excellent little fish of many sorts, and we
+had a most merry feast, after which Commandant Puèch brought me home in
+his boat; and now I confess to being so tired, that I am going to bed,
+notwithstanding the attraction of a pleasant moonlight expedition in the
+admiral’s big barge.
+
+                                                          _Friday, 23d._
+
+The Seignelay returned to-day from the Marquesas and the Paumotu group.
+She has had a most delightful fortnight’s cruise, and my kind friends on
+board add to my poignant repentance for having refused to accompany
+them, by their regrets that I should have missed so excellent an
+opportunity. They had perfect weather. The voyage going and coming
+occupied just a week, during which they passed through the Paumotus. The
+other week was spent at different islands in the Marquesas, and they say
+that much of the scenery is like the island of Moorea, but greatly
+glorified. Now, as Moorea is the most unique and beautiful isle I have
+ever seen, you can imagine how grievous it is to think I should so
+stupidly have missed seeing one still more strange and lovely.
+
+They also declare that the people are by far the finest race, and the
+most uncivilised savages, they have ever seen anywhere. They declare
+that many are still cannibal, and that all are tattooed all over the
+face and body, while many of the men are clothed only in a kilt of human
+hair. I think it possible that had they inspected this garment more
+closely, they might have discovered it to be made of the Rhizomorpha
+fibre—a glossy black parasitic weed, which is found in the forests,
+clinging to old trees by means of tiny suckers. It resembles coarse
+horse-hair, and in Fiji it is greatly valued as a kilt by warriors and
+dancers. So perhaps in this respect the Marquesans may not differ from
+our familiar Fijians. But there is no doubt that they are still in that
+very early stage of civilisation, which is most interesting to the
+traveller, before all distinctive angles have been rounded off—a process
+which, when once commenced, progresses with startling rapidity, to the
+total extinction of all individuality.
+
+Here in Tahiti, for instance, scarcely a trace remains of the aboriginal
+manners and customs, and it is impossible for the most vivid imagination
+to conjure up any sort of suggestion of Captain Cook’s Otaheiti. Not a
+trace of tattooing is now to be seen, though in olden days it was
+practised by almost all Tahitians, both men and women, simply as a
+personal adornment. Happily they seldom disfigured their faces, but the
+women tattooed their feet, up to the ankles, and marked bracelets on
+their arms and wrists. The men sometimes covered the whole body with
+intricate patterns, often gracefully drawn, as when a cocoa-nut palm was
+designed on the leg, or a bread-fruit tree, with twining vines, on the
+chest. Fishes and birds, flowers and fruits, spears and clubs, were
+favourite subjects; and sometimes a battle-piece, or the offering of
+sacrifice at the _marae_, were thus indelibly marked. In the character
+of subjects selected, the tattooing of Tahiti seems to have been nearer
+akin to that of Japan than of any other nation, though in this respect,
+as in all others, the Japanese lend to their work an artistic beauty of
+their own.
+
+In all other groups, the patterns selected were generally stars or
+lines. By far the most elaborate designs are those of New Zealand and
+the Marquesas; but the former invariably adhere to curved lines or
+concentric circles, covering the whole face, while the latter make broad
+straight lines all over the body, with occasional designs of animals.
+
+The only Marquesan whom I have seen here is most elaborately tattooed
+from head to foot, and I am told he is a fair type of his countrymen.
+All the Maoris whom we saw in New Zealand were so fully clothed, that I
+can only testify to the very finely marked intricate circles on the
+faces of the men, and the hideous blue lips of the women. In Samoa the
+men are so marked as apparently to be clothed in dark-blue-silk
+knee-breeches. In Tonga only the men were tattooed, the women never
+were. In Fiji, on the other hand, men were never tattooed; but, for
+women, a certain small amount was a compulsory religious act.
+
+In all these countries so many idolatrous ceremonies were connected with
+the process, that it was invariably prohibited so soon as the people
+professed Christianity. In Japan, where it has hitherto been so
+practised as to be a really beautiful art, it has been declared illegal
+by the same police regulations which, greatly to the discomfort of the
+people, insist on every man being dressed from head to foot. But
+throughout the Christianised isles, including Tahiti, the prohibition
+was on the score of idolatry, and a law was passed, affixing a graduated
+scale of penalty for repeated offences; a man was condemned to make so
+many fathoms of road or of stone-work, and a woman to make so many mats,
+or so many fathoms of native cloth, for the use of the king and of the
+governor. Nevertheless, the desire to embellish nature was so great,
+that many were content to work out the penalty rather than forego the
+adornment.
+
+There never was a better illustration of the old proverb, “Il faut
+souffrir pour être belle;” for it was necessarily a painful process,
+followed by swelling and inflammation, which often lasted for a
+considerable time, and sometimes even proved fatal. The process was
+simple: the victim of vanity was made to lie flat on the ground, while
+the artist sketched his design with charcoal on the skin, which was then
+punctured by little bundles of needles, made of the bones of birds or
+fishes, though human bones were preferred. Some were so arranged as to
+resemble the teeth of a saw, and were used in producing straight lines.
+Others had but one fine point for giving delicate finishing touches, and
+for working on such sensitive spots as could not endure the sharper
+pain. The needles having previously been dipped in a black dye, made
+from the kernel of the candle-nut, reduced to charcoal and mixed with
+oil, were struck sharply with a small hammer, thus puncturing the skin,
+carrying with them the dye, which, seen through the transparent and very
+silky skin, had the effect of being blue.
+
+The custom of tattooing was certainly widespread. Herodotus has recorded
+its existence even among the Thracians, of whom he remarked that the
+“barbarians could be exceedingly foppish after their fashion. The man
+who was not tattooed amongst them was not respected.” If tattooing was
+in fashion so near Phœnicia, who knows but that those roving traders may
+have been the first to suggest to our fair-skinned forefathers the
+attractions of blue woad as high art decoration?
+
+Not only have such practices as tattooing died out in Tahiti, but even
+the distinctive games of the people have apparently been forgotten,—at
+least I have seen none played. Yet in olden times there were many
+national sports; as, for instance, one which exactly answered to golf,
+and was played with sticks, slightly curved at one end, and a hard ball
+made of strips of native cloth. Football was formerly as popular in
+Tahiti as in Britain or Japan, the ball used being a large roll of the
+stalks of banana-leaves, firmly twisted together. The players were often
+women, twenty or thirty on each side; and in the scramble to seize the
+ball, there was as much rough sport as in any English public school. As
+the games were generally played on the beach, the ball was often thrown
+into the sea, and followed by the merry crowd with shouts and ringing
+laughter.
+
+Boxing also found favour with the lower orders; and wrestling and
+archery were as highly esteemed in Tahiti as in Japan, and, moreover,
+were equally associated with religious festivals, which probably is the
+reason of their having fallen into disuse. The dresses worn by the
+archers, with their bows and arrows, were all considered sacred, and
+certain persons were appointed to keep them. Before the contest began,
+the archers went to the _marae_ to perform certain religious ceremonies;
+and at the end of the game, they returned thither to change their dress,
+bathe, and restore their bow and arrows to their appointed keeper,
+before they could venture to eat, or to enter their own homes. The bows
+in use were about five feet in length; the arrows about three feet, and
+the distance to which they would fly was often about 300 yards. They
+were never used in war, nor for shooting at a mark, as in Fiji.
+
+Spear-throwing and slinging stones were games in which a target was
+always set up, and generally hit with precision; but these were
+exercises of war, in which the players had abundant practice. The
+slingers generally formed the advance-guard in battle, and often did
+much execution. The stones selected were about the size of a hen’s egg.
+The slings were made of finely braided cocoa-nut husk, or filaments of
+native flax, with a loop at one end for the hand, and at the other a
+place for the stone. In throwing, the sling was stretched across the
+back, whirled round the head, and thus the missile was discharged with
+great force.
+
+But the game which always excited the keenest interest was wrestling.
+Here, as in Japan, the announcement of a wrestling-match brought
+together thousands both of men and women, all in their holiday garbs.
+The wrestlers, like the archers, first repaired to the _marae_ to do
+homage to the gods; then entering the ring, which was generally on some
+grassy spot near the sea-shore, they fell to work in good earnest.
+Sometimes the wrestlers of one island challenged those of another; or
+else the challenge was from men of different districts. Their dress
+consisted only of a waist-cloth, and a coating of fresh oil. The moment
+a man was thrown, the friends of the conqueror commenced to dance and
+sing triumphantly with an accompaniment of drums; and as the vanquished
+party raised songs of defiance, the din must have been pretty
+considerable. However, it subsided the moment fresh wrestlers entered
+the ring, and the spectators watched the progress of the struggle in
+dead silence and with intense interest. When the contest was over, the
+wrestlers returned to the _marae_ to present their offerings to the
+protecting gods.
+
+Without looking back to classical times and Greek games, it seems
+strange, does it not, that these very uncivilised savages of the South
+Seas should have assigned to wrestling precisely the same religious
+importance as is bestowed on it by the Shintoists of Japan. Possibly
+both nations retained this sacred game as practised by their common
+Malay ancestors,[59] from whom, probably, both derived their custom[60]
+of offering savoury meats, and making acts of homage to their deceased
+relations; though the Japanese, either from inborn refinement or Chinese
+influence, place on their domestic shrine only the tablets of the dead;
+whereas the Tahitian preserved the ancestral skulls hidden in the roof
+of his house.
+
+The perch for fowls,[61] so familiar in the neighbourhood of all Shinto
+temples in Japan, had its counterpart in the homes of the Tahitian
+chiefs; though the fowls here do not appear to have been consecrated to
+the gods, but trained for fighting. The native legends assert that
+cock-fighting was the most ancient native game, and the birds were
+reared and tended with the utmost care. No artificial spurs were used,
+and the belligerents were separated before either was injured. The
+fights came off at break of day, that the birds might be perfectly cool;
+and large crowds assembled to witness the contests, which sometimes were
+carried on for several mornings consecutively.
+
+In tracing all manner of kindred customs in the isles of the North and
+South Pacific, I observe, amongst minor points, how very widespread is
+the passion for shampooing,—a friendly office which every old woman in
+the South Seas seems as ready to perform for the wearied wayfarer as is
+the professional blind man of Japan; involving an amount of manipulation
+which I should suppose to be truly odious, but to which many foreigners
+take kindly, and which seems to find favour in all Asiatic countries.
+
+I take an especial interest in all such links as seem to connect these
+isles with Japan, because I have a pet theory of my own, that all these
+fair Polynesian islanders have drifted here by a circuitous route _viâ_
+the North Pacific. The commonly accepted notion is, that all the groups
+in the East Pacific have been peopled by Malays, who found their way
+here by a directly eastward migration. It is difficult, however, to
+imagine why they should have come so far, when, in coming from that
+direction, Australia and New Guinea lay so much nearer to them.
+
+If you open the map of the world and rule a transverse line, passing
+through the Sandwich Islands in the North Pacific and the Friendly Isles
+in the South, you will perceive that the groups lying to the east are
+the Navigators, Fiji, the Hervey Isles, Tahiti, the Paumotu, the
+Marquesan, the Austral Isles, and New Zealand, every one of which is
+peopled by comparatively fair-skinned races, with hair which by nature
+is straight and black, although in many of the isles, as in Samoa,
+custom requires that it should be dyed or bleached, cut short and
+stiffened, so as to produce the effect of a wig. I am not sure if the
+spiral curls of the yellow-haired Tongans and Fijians are artificially
+produced, because I have never seen one individual of either race whose
+hair had not been dyed with coral-lime; but I know that a Samoan girl
+who refrains from “improving” nature, finds herself possessed of fine
+black tresses, as silky and as beautiful as those of any Italian maiden.
+
+To the west of our line lies Melanesia, comprising the Marshall Isles,
+the Carolines, Solomon Isles, New Guinea, New Britain, New Hebrides, New
+Caledonia, and Australia. These, almost without exception, are peopled
+by dark-skinned races, repulsive in their ugliness, and with hair more
+or less woolly.
+
+All these lie between Eastern Polynesia and the Malay country, and there
+seems no reason whatever to account for those hardy little warriors
+passing by so many fertile isles, in search of the unknown region to the
+east. Surely it is more probable that, having first overrun Formosa, and
+then peopled Japan, they thence sailed to the Sandwich Isles, and so
+gradually made their way to the south. We know that in old days their
+vessels were very much better than those now commonly used by them; and
+the voyage from Japan to Hawaii, and thence to Tahiti, would have been
+by no means impossible, especially as the existing strong ocean-currents
+would naturally tend to draw any ship by this course.
+
+It is said that even a log of wood fairly launched on the Malay coast,
+would naturally drift by this circuitous water-way till it returned
+westward to the shores of New Guinea. A glance at a map of
+ocean-currents will, I think, make this plain to you.
+
+I know that this theory is contrary to that generally entertained; but
+as the natives of Tahiti have always maintained that their ancestors
+came from Hawaii (to which they retain the strongest links of family
+affection, the principal families of the two groups being united to one
+another by ties of blood), I cannot understand why learned men should
+maintain that Hawaii must really mean Savaii in the Samoan group,
+concerning which the Tahitians know little or nothing, except what they
+have learned, by their visits to that group, in the character of native
+missionaries.
+
+There are many points which seem to me in favour of the circuitous route
+_viâ_ Japan; such, for instance, as the gradual deterioration in the art
+of tattooing, in which, beyond all question, Japan excels all other
+nations, and which in the Marquesas, Tahiti, New Zealand, and, I think,
+also in Hawaii, retained its graceful character, gradually falling off
+as it travelled westward to Fiji and Tonga. Many other points of
+similarity exist, such as the use of the honorific prefix O before
+proper names, as in Japan, O-yama (Respected mountain), or in addressing
+any person politely. Throughout Polynesia the same custom exists. Hence
+early travellers wrote of Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, as O-whyhee, O-taheiti,
+O-samoa; and the same with reference to names of persons.
+
+Another point which to me appears to support the theory of the
+circuitous movement is, that those best acquainted with Samoan matters
+assert that, beyond any doubt, the Ellice group, lying far to the _west_
+of Samoa, was peopled from thence. It is therefore only natural to infer
+that the tall, comely race of light copper-coloured people who inhabit
+the south-east coast of New Guinea (that is to say, due west from the
+Ellice Isles), probably reached those shores about the same period, and
+from the same direction. Their women are beautifully tattooed, and their
+language wonderfully resembles that of the Rarotongan teachers, who have
+come from the distant Hervey Isles to settle among them as pioneers,
+sent by the native mission in that far easterly group; in fact, many of
+their words are identical.
+
+Again, it is a well-established fact that Fotuna and Aniwa, two of the
+southern New Hebrides, which lie due west of the Friendly Isles, were
+peopled by the descendants of a party of Tongans, who drifted thither in
+a large canoe and settled on these uninhabited isles. These islanders
+have retained their own language, and their children when born are very
+fair, but as they grow up they become almost as dark in colour as their
+Papuan neighbours. Their hair is of the Polynesian type, and some allow
+it to grow long and smooth by not dyeing it with lime.
+
+Yet another argument in favour of the migration having originally taken
+a northward course, lies in the physical development of the race. Surely
+it is easier to recognise a direct Malay ancestry for the warlike little
+Japanese, with their reverence for the sacred swords of their demigods,
+than for these stalwart Polynesians, with their firmly knit, muscular
+limbs, and stately yet graceful bearing. The race increased in stature,
+improved in feature, and enriched in colour on their southward
+way—circumstances doubtless due to more easy and luxurious lives, with
+better and more abundant food.
+
+Beautiful as is the rich copper colour of these islanders, their own
+ideal of beauty, as showing pure blood, consists in possessing a very
+fair skin; and I have often been amused, when sketching, by their
+anxiety to be represented several shades lighter than nature, not from
+any wish to resemble foreigners, but evidently as embodying their
+tradition of good ancestry. They by no means despise the use of
+cosmetics to bring about so desirable a result: the Marquesan women, for
+instance, though naturally of a light copper colour, contrive to make
+their skin almost white by an application of the root of the papawa
+tree.
+
+That modifying circumstances may produce such changes, both in stature
+and complexion, is now, I suppose, generally admitted; in fact it is
+almost certain that in some cases where barren atolls (such as the
+Kingsmill or Gilbert group, on the equator) have from accidental
+circumstances been peopled by descendants of these splendid men they
+have degenerated beyond recognition, and are now a short, spare, and
+generally ugly race. Naturally, the change from unbounded supplies of
+nutritious vegetable diet—bread-fruit, bananas, cocoa-nut, yams, sugar,
+and all the luxuries of the tropics—to isles where a coarse meal,
+prepared from the woody fruit of the pandanus, is the only edible form
+of vegetable, has in due time produced this result. Therefore it seems
+perfectly reasonable to infer that the converse occurred when an
+under-fed aggressive race, engaged from their cradles in piracy and
+strife, found themselves at rest in these Capuan isles, and there
+yielded to the habits of indolent ease, which they so naturally
+engender.
+
+Yet to this day the chief characteristics of the Malays are common
+throughout Polynesia. In each of these groups a truly Asiatic code of
+wearisome, elaborate ceremonial is observed on every possible occasion;
+the smallest breach of etiquette is considered a crime; a joke of any
+sort, especially of the nature of “chaff,” is an unpardonable offence;
+in speech, flowery compliments which mean nothing and veil thought are
+the rule—slow, deliberate oratory, in which the best speaker is he who
+can talk for hours without touching his point, and then condense all he
+wishes to say, in a few pithy words.
+
+All these islanders are distinguished by a natural grace and courtesy of
+manner—sometimes dignified, at others most winning; yet under extreme
+external politeness they have often nursed schemes of cold treachery and
+cruelty, which they have carried out unscrupulously to the bitter end.
+(I speak, of course, of the islanders as they were by nature, ere the
+mellowing, transforming influence of Christianity had dawned on the
+South Seas.) But to this hour the Polynesians, like the Malays, are, as
+a rule, careless, easy-going, impassive beings, generally light-hearted;
+all fatalists, as a matter of course; strangely indifferent to physical
+pain, whether endured by themselves or inflicted on others; but when
+once roused to fighting-pitch, wholly uncontrollable in their blind mad
+fury.
+
+But the strongest proof of their Malay descent lies in the similarity of
+their various languages, both to one another and to the mother tongue.
+It is not merely a likeness in general construction, but many words are
+almost identical, as you may gather at a glance from the following
+vocabulary. In short, the whole subject is extremely interesting, but is
+one which I must leave to the discussion of learned folk, whose wise
+disquisitions you can study at your leisure.
+
+ ┌──────────┬─────────┬──────────┬─────────┬──────────┬──────────┐
+ │_English._│_Malay._ │_Niua and │  _New   │_Rotumah._│ _Fiji._  │
+ │          │         │Vaté, New │Zealand._│          │          │
+ │          │         │Hebrides._│         │          │          │
+ ├──────────┼─────────┼──────────┼─────────┼──────────┼──────────┤
+ │Heavens   │Langit   │Rang      │Rangi    │Lang      │Langi     │
+ │Rain      │Ujan     │Ua        │Ua       │Uas       │Utha      │
+ │Fire      │Api      │Afi       │Kapura   │Reh       │Bukawanga │
+ │Head      │Ulu      │Uru       │Matenga  │Filou     │Ndluna    │
+ │Eye       │Mata     │Mata      │Kanohi   │Math      │Mata      │
+ │Ear       │Telinga  │Teringa   │Taringa  │Falinga   │Ndalingana│
+ │Teeth     │Nihi     │Nifo      │Niho     │Al        │Batina    │
+ │Arm       │Lima     │Lima      │Ringa    │Siu       │Lingana   │
+ │Die       │Mati     │Mate      │Mate     │Akia      │Mate      │
+ │Come      │Omai     │Fano mai  │Haere mai│Leum      │Lako mai  │
+ │Stone     │Batu     │Fatu      │Maka     │Hoth      │Vatu      │
+ │Water     │Vai      │Vai       │Wai      │Voi       │Wai       │
+ │          │         │          │         │          │          │
+ │Cocoa-nut │Nyu      │Ono       │...      │Niu       │Niu       │
+ │Fish      │Ikan     │Ika       │Ika      │I’e       │Ika       │
+ │House     │Bali     │Fare      │Whare    │Ri        │Vale      │
+ │Woman     │Perampuan│Fafine    │Whahine  │Hoien     │Alewa     │
+ │Man       │Orang    │Tangata   │Tangata  │Tha       │Tamata    │
+ │Drink     │Minum    │Inumia    │Inu      │Iom       │Ngunu     │
+ │Canoe     │Sampan   │Vaka      │Waka     │Tafang    │Wanka     │
+ └──────────┴─────────┴──────────┴─────────┴──────────┴──────────┘
+ ┌──────────┬────────┬────────┬────────────┬────────────┬─────────┬─────────┐
+ │_English._│_Tonga._│_Samoa._│_Raratonga._│_Marquesas._│_Tahiti._│_Hawaii._│
+ │          │        │        │            │            │         │         │
+ │          │        │        │            │            │         │         │
+ ├──────────┼────────┼────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────┤
+ │Heavens   │Langi   │Langi   │Langi       │Ani         │Ra’i     │Lani     │
+ │Rain      │Uha     │Ua      │Ua          │Ua          │Ua       │Ua       │
+ │Fire      │Afi     │Afi     │A’i         │Ahi         │Auahi    │Ahi      │
+ │Head      │Ulu     │Ulu     │Mimiti      │Upoko       │Upoo     │Po’o     │
+ │Eye       │Mata    │Mata    │Mata        │Mata        │Mata     │Maka     │
+ │Ear       │Telinga │Taringa │Taringa     │Buaina      │Tari’a   │Pepei ao │
+ │Teeth     │Nifo    │Nifo    │Ni’o        │Niho        │Niho     │Niho     │
+ │Arm       │Nima    │Lima    │Lima        │Iima        │Rima     │Lima     │
+ │Die       │Mate    │Oti     │Mate        │Mate        │Pohe     │Make     │
+ │Come      │Hau     │Omai    │Tae         │Amai        │Haere mai│Hele mai │
+ │Stone     │Maka    │Ma’a    │Toka        │Kea         │O fa’i   │Pohaku   │
+ │Water     │Vai     │Vai     │Vai         │Vai         │Vai or   │Uai      │
+ │          │        │        │            │            │  Pape   │         │
+ │Cocoa-nut │Niu     │Niu     │Niu         │Eehi        │Haari    │Niu      │
+ │Fish      │Ika     │I’a     │Ika         │Ika         │I’a      │Lawaia   │
+ │House     │Fale    │Fale    │Are         │Fae         │Fare     │Hale     │
+ │Woman     │Fefine  │Fafine  │Vaine       │Vahine      │Vahine   │Wahine   │
+ │Man       │Tangata │Tangata │Tangata     │Euata       │Tane     │Kanaka   │
+ │Drink     │Inu     │Inu     │Inu         │Inu         │Inu      │Inu      │
+ │Canoe     │Vaka    │Va’a    │Vaka        │Vaka        │Va’a     │Kau      │
+ └──────────┴────────┴────────┴────────────┴────────────┴─────────┴─────────┘
+
+                                HERE ARE THE NUMERALS.
+ ┌──────────┬────────┬────────┬───────┬────────────┬────────────┬─────────┬─────────┐
+ │_English._│_Malay._│_Samoa._│_Fiji._│_Rarotonga._│_Marquesas._│_Tahiti._│_Hawaii._│
+ ├──────────┼────────┼────────┼───────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────┤
+ │One       │Satu    │Tasi    │Dua    │Ta’i        │Tahi        │Tahi     │Kahi     │
+ │Two       │Dua or  │Lua     │Rua    │Rua         │Ua          │Rua      │Alua     │
+ │          │  Lua   │        │       │            │            │         │         │
+ │Three     │Talu    │Tolu    │Tola   │Toru        │Tou         │Toru     │Akolo    │
+ │Four      │Ha      │Fa      │Va     │A           │Fa          │Ha       │Aha      │
+ │Five      │Lima    │Lima    │Lima   │Rima        │Ima         │Rima     │Alima    │
+ │Six       │Onoma   │Ono     │Ono    │Ono         │Ono         │Ono      │Eono     │
+ │Seven     │Pitu    │Fitu    │Vita   │Itu         │Fitu        │Hitu     │Ahiku    │
+ │Eight     │Walu    │Valu    │Ualo   │Valu        │Vau         │Varu     │Auala    │
+ │Nine      │Siwa    │Iva     │Thewa  │Iua         │Iva         │Iva      │Aiwa     │
+ │Ten       │Sapuloh │Sefulu  │Tine   │Ngaulu      │Onohn’u     │Ahuru    │Umi      │
+ │Eleven    │Sepuloh │Sefulu  │Tine ka│            │            │Ta’au    │         │
+ │          │  dua   │  Lua   │  kua  │            │            │         │         │
+ │Twenty    │Ruapuloh│Lua Fulu│Rua    │Elua ngaulu │Eua onohu’u │         │Iwakalua │
+ │          │        │        │  sang │            │            │         │         │
+ │          │        │        │  a    │            │            │         │         │
+ │          │        │        │  vula │            │            │         │         │
+ └──────────┴────────┴────────┴───────┴────────────┴────────────┴─────────┴─────────┘
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIX.
+  LIFE IN PAPEETE—THE MARKET—CHURCHES—COUNTRY LIFE IN THE SOUTH SEAS.
+
+
+                                           THE RED HOUSE, PAPEETE,
+                                               _Saturday, December 1st_.
+
+We have had a very gay week, including several festivities on board the
+three French men-of-war now in harbour. On Saturday I was invited to
+dine on board Le Limier, with the Greens, Viennots, and Verniers. (In
+case your French fails you, I may remind you that a _limier_ is a
+blood-hound; a fact which I only recollected on seeing canine heads on
+all the boats.) M. Puèch is a good friend of the French Protestant
+Mission, and his visit to Tahiti is a happy event for all its members.
+After a pleasant dinner, we sat on deck to hear the sailors sing, and
+then went off in small canoes for a nearer sight of the _pêche à
+flambeaux_, which was going on in every direction near the reef—the
+flashing torches and dark figures of the fishermen forming a most
+picturesque scene.
+
+Another day we breakfasted on board Le Seignelay, and in the afternoon a
+large party assembled on La Magicienne to see the boat-races. A pretty
+sight, and seen from a beautiful and most luxurious ship.
+
+On Wednesday, the admiral held his last reception at Government House,
+at which there was a very large attendance; and Mrs Brander had most
+mirthful dances here on Monday, and again last night. The latter was a
+farewell, and I fear that to many of the young folk it was really a very
+sorrowful one.
+
+This morning we watched La Magicienne steam out of harbour on her way to
+Valparaiso. The admiral leaves a pleasant vice-governor in M. D’Oncieue
+de la Battye, who is happily allowed to retain the excellent band till
+the arrival of the new governor; when the Seignelay is to convey him and
+it to Valparaiso. So the Tahitians find some consolation in this
+arrangement.
+
+                                                       _Sunday Evening._
+
+I think our Sundays would seem to you rather a curious medley, so I will
+give you a sketch of to-day from morning till evening. I was, as usual,
+awakened at 5 A.M. by the chattering of many voices, as the boats
+discharged their cargoes of fruit and rainbow-coloured fish beneath my
+windows. It was an exquisite cloudless morning, and I was seized with a
+sudden impulse to follow the crowd to the market, which hitherto I had
+only seen in its deserted afternoon aspect.
+
+Passing by roads which are called streets, but are rather shady bowers
+of yellow hybiscus and bread-fruit trees, I entered the covered
+market-place, where were assembled as gay a throng as you could wish to
+see, many of them dressed in flowing robes of the very brightest
+colours; for the people here assembled are chiefly _le peuple_, whose
+days of ceremonial mourning for their good old queen are drawing to a
+close; so the long tresses of glossy black hair, hitherto so carefully
+hidden within their jaunty little sailor hats, are now again suffered to
+hang at full length in two silky plaits, and hair and hats are wreathed
+with bright fragrant flowers of double Cape jessamine, orange-blossom,
+scarlet hybiscus, or oleander. Many wear a delicate white jessamine star
+in the ear in place of an ear-ring. The people here are not so winsome
+as those in remoter districts. Too much contact with shipping and
+grog-shops has of course gone far to deteriorate them, and take off the
+freshness of life; but a South Sea crowd is always made up of groups
+pleasant to the eye; and a party of girls dressed in long graceful
+sacques of pale sea-green, or delicate pink, pure white, or bright
+crimson, chatting and laughing as they roll up minute fragments of
+tobacco in strips of pandanus or banana to supply the inevitable
+cigarette, is always attractive.
+
+The men all wear _pareos_ of Manchester cotton stuff, prepared expressly
+for these isles, and of the most wonderful patterns. Those most in
+favour are bright crimson with a large white pattern, perhaps groups of
+red crowns on circles of white, arranged on a scarlet ground, or else
+rows of white crowns, alternating with groups of stars. A dark-blue
+ground with circles and crosses in bright yellow, or scarlet with yellow
+anchors and circles, also find great favour; and though they certainly
+sound “loud” when thus described, they are singularly effective. It is
+wonderful what a variety of patterns can be produced, not one of which
+has ever been seen in England. With these the men wear white shirts, and
+sailor’s hats, with bright-coloured silk handkerchiefs tied over them
+and knotted on the ear; or else a gay garland.
+
+On entering the market, it struck me that many of the sellers must have
+taken up their quarters over-night, for their gay quilts and pillows lay
+near, as they sat on their mats snatching a hasty breakfast of fruit or
+raw fish.
+
+The latter is always in favour. Little fish or big fish of certain sorts
+are swallowed with apparently the same delight as you might hail a
+basket of ripe cherries; in fact, a green banana-leaf full of skipping
+shrimps, is a dainty dish for any pretty maid, who crunches the
+wriggling creatures with her gleaming white teeth, or lets them hop down
+her throat with the greatest coolness.
+
+The fish here offered for sale are of every sort and size and colour.
+Large silvery fish, flat fish; long narrow fish with prolonged snouts,
+excellent to eat; the _au_ or needle-fish, with long sharp-pointed head;
+and gay scarlet and green and blue fishes of every colour of the
+rainbow. I have seen gaudy fish in many tropical seas, but nowhere such
+brilliancy as here. There are rock-fish of all sorts, bonito, good
+fresh-water salmon with white flesh, eels, mussels, turtle, clams,
+echini, prawns, red and white cray-fish, &c., &c. Sometimes the market
+has a fair supply of poultry, turkeys, fowls, pigeons, and wild
+duck,—generally a few live pigs, which are carried hanging from a pole
+and squealing pitifully. They are very good, and clean feeders, being
+allowed to wander at large, and find themselves in cocoa-nuts and
+bread-fruit. The enterprising Chinamen, as usual, improve the vegetable
+supply, especially in the matter of what I venture to call Christian
+potatoes, in opposition to the indigenous potato, _alias_ yam.
+
+Every one brings to the morning market whatever he happens to have for
+sale. Some days he has a large stock-in-trade, sometimes next to
+nothing. But, be it little or be it much, he divides it into two lots,
+and slings his parcels or baskets from a light bamboo-pole which rests
+across his shoulder, and, light as it is, often weighs more than the
+trifles suspended from it,—perhaps a few shrimps in a green leaf are
+slung from one end, and a lobster from the other, or, it may be, a tiny
+basket of new-laid eggs balanced by half-a-dozen silvery fishes.
+
+But often the burden is so heavy that the pole bends with the weight—of
+perhaps two huge bunches of mountain bananas—and you think how that poor
+fellow’s shoulder must have ached as he carried his spoil down the steep
+mountain-path from the cleft in the rugged rock where the _faees_ had
+contrived to take root. These resemble bunches of gigantic golden plums.
+As a bit of colour they are glorious, but as a vegetable I cannot learn
+to like them,—which is perhaps as well, as the native proverb says that
+the foreigner who does appreciate _faees_, can never stay away from
+Tahiti.
+
+As you enter the cool shady market you see hundreds of those golden
+clusters hanging from ropes stretched across the building, and great
+bunches of mangoes and oranges. These last lie heaped in baskets, among
+cool green leaves. Sometimes a whole laden bough has been recklessly cut
+off. Pine-apples, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, all are there, and baskets of
+scarlet tomatoes, suggestive of cool salads.
+
+But tempting above all are the luscious mangoes, whose thin skins are
+ready to burst at a touch, and yield their treasure of delight to
+thirsting lips. Purple, or golden, or pale yellow, long-shaped or
+egg-shaped, I know not which to prefer; each in turn seems more
+delicious than any other, and the only difficulty is to stop feasting
+before the basket is empty! If Tahiti owns no other debt of gratitude to
+France, she at least has to thank a French governor for this excellent
+fruit, which is now so thoroughly acclimatised, that it has attained a
+perfection rarely equalled in any other country, and, moreover, grows so
+luxuriantly and bears fruit so abundantly, as to form an important item
+in the food of the people.
+
+Returning from the market to a pleasant early breakfast on the cool
+verandah, I rested in luxurious quiet till the bells of the Roman church
+close by, summoned the faithful to the nine o’clock service, which I
+generally attend, in preference to walking in the heat to the large
+native Congregational church—“_le temple Protestant_”—where the long
+service, in a tongue to me unknown, is a weariness of flesh and spirit.
+Moreover, it lacks the picturesque element which was to me so attractive
+in the simple Fijian churches, where soft mats are the only furnishings
+required. Here the congregation are penned in hideous pews, which make
+it difficult, if not impossible, to kneel—a natural attitude of worship,
+which, in the early days of Tahitian Christianity, was as common as it
+now is in Fiji, but from which the modern Tahitians refrain in church,
+as savouring of Romish ritual!
+
+At the Catholic church, the bishop preaches half in French, half in
+Tahitian, that all his hearers may carry away some message in their own
+tongue; and the singing by the French Sisters and their school-children
+is always sweet and harmonious. I cannot say the congregation is
+large—merely a small handful of natives; such of the French as are
+compelled to be present at all, having already been in official
+attendance at the eight o’clock military Mass, which is to me a very
+distasteful form of worship. I think that good Père Collet looks on me
+as rather a hopeful convert; but I tell him I only appear as the
+representative of my naval friends, who all consider church-going in any
+form as altogether unnecessary, neither officers nor sailors ever
+attending service since our arrival here.
+
+After church, we went to breakfast on board Le Seignelay, and then to
+see Queen Marau, whom we escorted to the Government House gardens, where
+we were joined by several friends. The great attractions there are two
+newly arrived Russian bears, passengers by Le Limier—nice brown beasts,
+and very tame.
+
+We returned here just in time for the family dinner, from which, as
+usual, Mrs Brander and I made our way to the evening service at the
+little Congregational chapel, at which only a tiny handful of the
+foreign residents assemble. All the members of the Protestant mission
+officiate by turns, in French or English; and this evening M. Vernier
+conducted the service in admirable English. But a strong
+counter-attraction is offered by the pleasant gardens, where the band
+always reserves its most attractive programme for Sunday night; and we
+catch tempting snatches of lovely operatic airs as we walk homeward by
+the hybiscus-shaded lanes.
+
+                                    FAUTAWA VALLEY, _Thursday, 6th Dec._
+
+Last Monday the whole party moved out from Papeete to this lovely
+country-home. It is a delightful bungalow, built by Mr Brander—a cool
+one-storeyed house, with wide shady verandahs; a pleasant garden, bright
+with summer flowers; masses of cool shade; and a clear, beautiful river,
+which affords a dozen delightful bathing-places of varied depth, so that
+every one can select a spot according to his own heart’s desire. All the
+family and their friends can swim like fishes, so of course they prefer
+the deep pools, and have a favourite spot just below the house, where
+they disport themselves joyously at all hours of the day; and the first
+hospitable offer made to callers, is that of a _pareo_ and towels, that
+they may at once enjoy this most refreshing luxury.
+
+I, being a foolish non-swimmer, and moreover somewhat ungregarious, have
+discovered a bathing paradise for myself some way further up the stream,
+where the interlacing boughs of cool blue-grey hybiscus foliage form an
+immense arbour—a dressing-room of leafy shade, through which the
+gurgling waters flow gently, with rippling, liquid, most musical
+tones—the voice of hidden streams. Here a rivulet leaves the main river,
+and its sparkling waters play over a thick velvety carpet of the
+softest, greenest mosses, forming the most delightful couch you can
+imagine; while from the leafy canopy overhead drop pale lemon-coloured
+blossoms, which float idly down the stream; and from the wild guava
+bushes I can pluck any number of ripe guavas, or, to be still more
+luxurious, I may gather luscious mangoes on my way from the house. Can
+you wonder that so fascinating a bower is not only my first attraction
+at early dawn, but a favourite retreat at all hours? Sometimes I end the
+evening with a moonlight bathe, but am inclined to think that this is
+imprudent, as it is always followed by a feeling of chill, though the
+water and air both feel warm and delicious.
+
+My hostess has presented me with a couple of sacques like those worn by
+all Tahitian ladies. They are the perfection of dress in this climate,
+being so delightfully cool. They are literally flowing garments, for
+they only touch you at the shoulders, and thence fall in long loose
+folds. So when the first ray of light gilds the high mountains in which
+this lovely valley lies embosomed, I slip on one of those simple
+dresses, and start barefoot across the dewy lawn and by the grassy paths
+that lead to the stream. Going barefoot is only a preliminary stage of
+bathing, for the grass is saturated with moisture, and an early walk
+across a field is about equivalent to walking knee-deep through a river.
+
+Curiously enough, it is to this heavy night-dew that the royal family of
+Tahiti owe their name of Pomare, which literally means “night cough.”
+About four generations back the king chanced to be sleeping on the
+mountains and exposed to the penetrating dew which brought on a
+troublesome cough. His followers spoke of the _po mare_, and the sound
+of the words pleased the royal ear; and thenceforth the king adopted
+this euphonious but singular surname, which has since been borne by each
+crowned head.
+
+This very odd custom of adopting a name to commemorate some simple
+event, was common to a good many of the isles. Mr Gill mentions such
+names as “Lost son,” adopted by the king of Mangaia when his son had
+been stolen; a title retained long after the lad had been restored.
+Another man took the name of “Deal-coffin,” because a relation had been
+buried in a sailor’s chest. One chief desired to be always called “Press
+me,” because those words had been uttered by a dying grandchild when in
+pain; and another was called “Dim-sight,” because his grandfather
+suffered from weak eyes.
+
+This pleasant country-home is about three miles from Papeete, and
+various carriages are ready after early breakfast to convey the
+gentlemen to town, whence some return to late breakfast, others not till
+dinner-time. But all day long, people come and go on divers errands of
+business or pleasure; and the drive is so pretty as to be in itself
+quite an enjoyment. In short, life here is altogether easy and
+luxurious, combined with most captivating simplicity.
+
+The already large family party has been increased by the arrival of a
+third big brother, Ariipaea, who has been for some time living on
+another of the islands. Mrs Salmon and the pretty young sisters, and
+several friends, are also staying here, a most loving “family-pie.” To
+Narii this happy valley has an additional charm, for it is also the home
+of a certain charming “Mademoiselle Cécile,” whom he hopes ere long to
+include in the family circle.
+
+                                   _Chez_ THE REV. JAMES GREEN, PAPEETE,
+                                       _Friday Evening_.
+
+This morning early, Ariipaea drove me here, where it had been arranged
+that I should meet M. Brun, the _pasteur_ of Moorea, and accompany him
+to his beautiful isle. We were to have taken passage in one of a small
+fleet of Moorea boats, which arrived here some days ago in order to
+build a district house, which shall henceforth be the regular
+headquarters of all Mooreans who have occasion to visit Papeete. The
+house was finished this morning, and the event was notified by a most
+deafening beating of native drums, after which all the boats set sail,
+very sensibly objecting to lose the fair breeze by any delay. M. Brun
+arrived in time to see them flying before the wind, like a flight of
+white butterflies.
+
+I solaced myself by commencing a careful study of a noble bread-fruit
+tree, overshadowing Queen Moë’s house, when suddenly a cry was raised
+that an English man-of-war was signalled. Great was the excitement that
+prevailed, as it is fully four years since the British ensign was last
+seen in this harbour, and there was a general chorus of disappointment
+when it was found that the visitor was only a small sloop, H.M.S.
+Daring; a disappointment, however, which was followed by great
+rejoicing, when it became known that she was the forerunner of H.M.S.
+Shah, Admiral de Horsey’s flag-ship, which is to arrive here in a few
+days. Already the small society of the place is in a ferment at the
+prospect of so important a visitor; and the arrival of about fifty
+English officers will compensate for the departure of the French
+flag-ship. So all manner of hospitalities are already under discussion,
+as we gathered from the general conversation at the band this evening.
+
+I shall leave this letter to go by H.M.S. Daring, in case she sails
+before I return from Moorea; so shall bid you good-bye for the present.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XX.
+VISIT TO THE PROTESTANT MISSION ON MOOREA—A SKETCH OF THE EARLY HISTORY
+                            OF THE MISSION.
+
+
+                                   _Chez_ MADAME BRUN, PAPETOAI, MOOREA,
+                                       _Saturday, 8th_.
+
+I am safely ensconced in this most charming little home, and very glad
+indeed to have reached it, for we have had rather a tiring day. Mrs
+Green most kindly gave me breakfast at five, that I might be ready for a
+six o’clock start; but it was fully eight before we got away, in a
+Haapiti boat, which agreed to bring us to this side of the island. We
+rowed out of harbour, hoping to catch a breeze, but it fell dead calm,
+and for four long hours we lay just outside the reef, rocked by heavy
+rollers—the water smooth as oil, and the burning heat of the sun so
+intense that I almost expected that the water would really frizzle! The
+thermometer at this season sometimes rises to 120° in the shade. I am
+afraid that if the truth must be confessed, both M. Brun and I were
+exceeding sea-sick.
+
+At last, to our great relief, a fresh breeze sprang up, and our little
+boat literally flew over the water, and in less than two hours carried
+us across to the pretty village of Tiaia, in the district of Teaharoa,
+whence one hour’s rowing inside the reef, along the most lovely shore,
+brought us here, where we were welcomed to this sweet French home by its
+pretty clever little mistress, and three charmingly old-fashioned
+children, Lucie, Henri, and Adrien, who administered refreshing hot tea
+to the tired and giddy travellers; after which I, for one, yielded to
+peaceful sleep, and awoke to find the watchful little trio all ready to
+escort me in any direction, and show me such treasures of delight as
+only true country children can discover. This is a fairy-like nest, on
+the shore of the loveliest sea lake, with wooded mountains all round,
+and a background of mighty rock-pinnacles, which are glorified in this
+evening light, and seem like the towers and ramparts of some celestial
+city.
+
+                                                          _Sunday, 9th._
+
+To me this has been a day of intense peace. A silence which may be felt
+seems to enfold this exquisite spot, and from morning till evening not a
+ripple has disturbed the perfect calm of the blue waters—only the light
+fronds of the cocoa-palms quiver and gleam with every faint breath of
+air.
+
+The village is perhaps a quarter of a mile from the house, and lies
+buried in a thicket of bread-fruit and mango-trees. There my hosts have
+spent the greater part of the day, having held four church services, and
+morning and afternoon school. But I have rejoiced in a day of quiet
+idleness, spent chiefly on the lovely shore beneath the shadow of very
+large trees, whose great boughs overhang the white coral
+beach,—shell-strewn and crab-haunted. At high tide the silvery waters
+creep upward till the far-spreading roots are half bathed in the brine,
+while the other half are buried in a tangle of lilac marine convolvulus,
+wherein myriads of hermit-crabs disport themselves.
+
+Madame Valles came to breakfast. She is the daughter of that dear old
+lady Mrs Simpson, of whose death I told you in a former letter. Her
+husband is a retired French naval officer, who has settled in this
+beautiful valley as a planter.
+
+This evening several members of the congregation met here to hold a
+prayer-meeting, after which they sang most harmonious sacred
+_himènes_—the very first I have heard since I was last on Moorea.
+
+I have rarely in any land seen a nicer and more thoroughly
+respectable-looking body of people than these; so gentle and courteous
+in their manners, and apparently so reliable. I fancy that in this
+secluded isle the people have retained more of their primitive
+Christianity than they have done in Papeete, where French influence and
+utter infidelity are continually acting as a leaven of evil, and where
+the fervour of first love is certainly a thing of the past, as regards
+the mass of the population.
+
+Such at least is my own impression, seeing only the surface of life, and
+naturally comparing things here with the very high standard now existing
+in Fiji, which has been my home for the last two years. The impulsive
+children of the South Seas are readily influenced for good or for evil;
+and as they quickly and whole-heartedly turned from their idols to
+embrace the purer faith taught them by devout white men, so now they are
+in danger of becoming even more careless than the average foreigners. I
+do not, however, mean to imply that the Tahitians or any of the
+islanders who have once adopted Christianity, have yet fallen away from
+its practice, so far as the bulk of the people in any European nation.
+In such matters as meeting for family prayer, and thanksgiving at meals,
+probably a much larger proportion of Tahitians than of Britons are still
+true to their early teaching.
+
+It really is very difficult, in presence of such peaceful, kindly
+people, and such settled forms of civilised Christian life, to realise
+what different scenes were witnessed by the earlier visitors of this
+lovely isle at the time of its discovery by Captain Wallis in 1767, and
+Captain Cook’s subsequent visit.
+
+It was in March 1797 that the first band of missionaries arrived here in
+the Duff, landing on Tahiti near Point Venus, where at first they were
+kindly welcomed by King Pomare, Queen Idia, and the chiefs, who seem to
+have expected that they would prove not merely sources of wealth, by
+distributing barter, but also able assistants in the art of war.
+
+But when the new-comers were found to be men of peace, and their mission
+that of teaching, they soon fell in the estimation of the natives, and
+for many years they struggled, apparently in vain, to stem the tide of
+idolatry and of such evil practices as infanticide and the offering of
+human victims to the feather-gods, as the Tahitians called their idols,
+because they were generally adorned either with the scarlet feathers of
+a small bird, or the long tail-feathers of the man-of-war or tropic
+bird.
+
+As quicksilver attracts gold, so was it supposed that this gay plumage
+became the very incarnation of the god; therefore, when a tribe went
+forth to war (and of course desired that the presence of their god
+should be with them) they held a solemn service at the temple, and then
+took perhaps only one feather from off the principal idol, and placed it
+in the ark prepared for it on the sacred canoe, which formed part of
+every fleet. Then, till the close of that expedition, all worship was
+addressed only to the feather-symbol, and no sacrifices or prayers were
+offered at the _marae_, lest the attention of the god being divided, he
+should return to the land, forsaking the warriors.
+
+At other times, however, he was present alike at every domestic shrine
+which possessed a feather brought from the great temple. For, as other
+nations have carried sacred symbolic fire from the altar, to sanctify
+their domestic hearth or their family temple, so did these Tahitians
+year by year assemble at the great national temple, bringing with them
+offerings of the precious feathers. These the priests deposited inside
+the hollow idols, distributing among the worshippers those which had
+lain there since the previous year, thereby imbibing such essence of
+sanctity as to convey the very presence of the god wherever they were
+carried.
+
+Not that those were the only visible symbols of the gods. Some appeared
+to their worshippers in the form of sharks; others, less terrible, took
+the form of divers birds. Hence, as I described to you in one of my
+letters from Samoa, so here in Tahiti and Moorea, the herons,
+kingfishers, and woodpeckers which frequented the old trees round the
+temples, were reverenced as incarnations of the deities, and their cries
+were interpreted as oracles.
+
+So strong was the hold of these superstitions, that for several years
+the mission seemed to make little or no progress beyond the
+establishment of gardens in which various imported fruits and vegetables
+were successfully raised, and the people were taught to cultivate them
+systematically for their own use. Orange-trees, limes, shaddocks,
+citrons, tamarinds, guavas, custard-apples, peaches, figs and vines,
+pine-apples and water-melons, pumpkins and cucumbers, cabbages and other
+vegetables, were thus first introduced to the island, where they are now
+so thoroughly acclimatised.
+
+But in an evil hour a great intertribal war broke out for the bodily
+possession of Oro, the national idol, and this first civilising
+influence was swept away—the mission premises were laid waste, the
+garden entirely destroyed, and the work of twelve years scattered to the
+winds.
+
+King Pomare, Otu his son, and all the chiefs and warriors of the isle,
+had assembled at the great _marae_ at Atehuru, where many fatted pigs
+were offered on the altar, while the surrounding trees were adorned with
+the ghastly corpses of human victims, all of whom had been sacrificed to
+Oro. The ark containing the symbolic feather was then placed on the
+sacred canoe belonging to the royal fleet.
+
+But on the following day Otu pretended to have had a revelation that the
+idol itself wished to be removed to Tautira; and on the chiefs of
+Atehuru refusing to allow this, his followers rushed to the temple,
+seized the idol, carried it off to the sea, and immediately set sail. As
+soon as they reached land a human sacrifice was ordered, lest Oro should
+resent this very cavalier treatment; and as no captive was at hand, one
+of the king’s own servants was slain, and offered as an atonement. Of
+course the despoiled chiefs flew to arms, and prepared to revenge
+themselves, and recapture their god. About 300 warriors came from the
+isle of Eimeo, now called Moorea, to the aid of the king, and bloody
+battles were fought, in which the chiefs’ army was almost invariably
+successful.
+
+There does not appear to have been any trace of cannibalism on either
+side, but the bodies of the slain were offered in sacrifice to Oro by
+the victors; while, on the other hand, the king’s party did not cease
+offering human sacrifices, and propitiating the idol by every means in
+their power. It was recaptured by the chiefs of Atehuru, who, however,
+with singular religious chivalry, allowed the king to land and deposit
+his offerings near the temple, though they naturally would not admit him
+within its precincts.
+
+Happily for the mission party, it so happened that just at this crisis a
+trading vessel came into harbour and landed some men; and about the same
+time another small vessel was driven ashore, with a crew of seventeen
+Englishmen. Thus they mustered a force of twenty-three Europeans, who
+not only put the mission-house into a state of defence, but lending
+their aid to the king, rendered him material aid—a service which they
+must have regretted on seeing that all prisoners of war were immediately
+put to death, and their bodies savagely mutilated. Finally, the chiefs
+agreed to resign the custody of the idol to the king; and so, for a
+while, ended one of the many bloody struggles by which the various
+nations of the earth have drained their heart’s blood for the possession
+of some bit of so-called sacred wood or bone.
+
+Thenceforward the young King Otu carried the precious god with him,
+whenever he sailed from one isle to another; and the sacred canoe on
+which its ark was borne, was always deposited at some _marae_ shaded by
+sombre trees, from whose boughs human victims offered sacrificially were
+immediately suspended.
+
+While such scenes as these were the incidents of daily life, the mission
+party had hardships enough to contend with. Five whole years elapsed
+without either letters or supplies reaching them from England. Their
+clothes were worn out, boots or shoes were wellnigh forgotten
+superfluities; tea and sugar were among the luxuries of the past. At
+last a small vessel arrived, specially chartered to bring the letters
+and supplies which had for so long been accumulating at Port Jackson.
+Imagine the rapture of seeing that little vessel arrive; and then the
+dismay of discovering that almost everything she had brought was either
+useless from having lain so long at Port Jackson, or saturated with salt
+water owing to the wretched condition of the ship. You who live in
+luxury at home, with everything of the best, and plenty of it, and with
+so many daily posts as to be a positive nuisance, cannot possibly
+realise the weariness of that long waiting, or the depth of that
+disappointment.
+
+Nor was there anything cheering in daily life. The mission work seemed
+to make no progress at all; the people openly mocked the white men, and
+despised their teaching.
+
+In 1808 war broke out again more savagely than before. The altars of Oro
+reeked with human blood; villages were burnt, plantations destroyed, and
+the whole country reduced to desolation and ruin. The mission settlement
+was ransacked, the houses burnt, the books distributed among the
+warriors to be used as cartridge-paper, the printing-types melted to
+make musket-balls, and every implement of iron found on the place was
+converted into a destructive weapon. The gardens were again demolished,
+and the students, finding the din of war more congenial than the arts of
+peace, joined their brethren in arms.
+
+Finally, feeling that their lives were in imminent danger, and that
+there was apparently nothing to be gained by remaining, the mission
+party resolved to abandon Tahiti; and taking advantage of a vessel which
+happily arrived in harbour, they embarked for Port Jackson, two only, Mr
+Hayward and Mr Nott, resolving to remain at their several posts and face
+the worst—the former at Huahine, the latter at Eimeo, to which King
+Pomare had fled from his enemies. Various attempts were made on their
+lives, happily without fatal result; and they continued to work as best
+they could till the year 1812, when, at the invitation of King Pomare,
+those who had been driven away from Tahiti returned, and made a fresh
+effort to establish the mission on Eimeo.
+
+They were cordially welcomed by the king, and by a small number of
+chiefs, who, by Pomare’s words and example, had been brought to look
+with contempt on their idols, and to incline towards the new faith; and
+though greatly distracted by intertribal wars, this little company
+resolved to build a substantial house which should be set apart for the
+worship of the true God. Thus in the summer of 1813 was the first
+Christian church in the group erected in Papetoai, the very place whence
+I now write.
+
+Thirty persons came forward to make public profession of their faith,
+desiring to have their names enrolled as having rejected idol-worship.
+Among those who did so was Patii, the high priest of the district, who
+came to Mr Nott, and announced his intention of publicly burning all the
+idols in his care. It was a promise heard with thankfulness not
+unmingled with dread, for there was every probability that such an act
+would lead to wild excitement among the heathen, and might possibly
+result in a massacre of the Christians. However, Patii had made up his
+mind, and at the appointed hour he and his friends collected a heap of
+fuel on the sea-shore, near the huge _marae_ where he had so often
+offered human sacrifices to these dumb idols, which he now brought
+forth, and tearing off the sacred cloth in which they had hitherto been
+draped, he exhibited them in their hideous nakedness, to the vast
+multitudes who had hitherto assembled at his bidding to do them homage,
+and who had now come to witness this act of impious sacrilege.
+
+Some of these ugly little gods were rudely carved human figures, and
+some had tiny figures carved in relief all over one large image; others
+were shapeless logs of wood, covered with finely braided cocoa-nut fibre
+and scarlet feathers; while some were angular columns of basalt, quite
+rough, just as they had been found. One by one were these once dreaded
+idols cast into the flames by their former priest, who called on the
+people to behold their helplessness, and bewailed his own folly in
+having hitherto worshipped such monstrous objects.
+
+Whatever may have been the feelings of the spectators, the dreaded
+tumult was averted, and the people dispersed quietly; indeed the example
+thus given was followed by many, both on Eimeo (it is now called Moorea)
+and also on Tahiti, to which two members of the mission—Messrs Scott and
+Hayward—now again ventured to cross. Great was their joy when they found
+that several of the natives had renounced idolatry and were earnest
+worshippers of Christ, having been awakened by some words of King Pomare
+to an exceeding longing for a better faith and purer life than that of
+their fathers. Glimmerings of light had also found their way to the
+Paumotu and other neighbouring isles, and by the close of 1814 there was
+reason to believe that a total of nearly 600 persons had renounced
+idol-worship and were feeling their way towards the Light.
+
+Naturally, such a movement was not viewed with satisfaction by the great
+mass of the people. Everywhere the Christians were persecuted by their
+heathen neighbours, who burnt their houses, destroyed their gardens,
+spoiled their goods, and even hunted them down, that they might offer
+them in sacrifice to the insulted gods. At all times it was customary to
+tell off certain families or tribes, from which the appointed
+victim-hunters were to select fit subjects for sacrifice; and so
+numerous were those thus eligible, that on some isles about one-third of
+the population lived in terror for their lives, not knowing at what
+moment their doom might be sealed. In many cases whole families forsook
+their homes secretly, and started in their frail canoe to seek a new
+home on some unknown isle, preferring to risk the dangers of the sea,
+and the chance of being eaten by strangers, to the certainty that sooner
+or later their turn must come to be offered in sacrifice to their cruel
+gods.
+
+How this terrible doom first came to be attached to any family I cannot
+say, but, once decided, there was no escape. From generation to
+generation the black shadow hung, like the sword of Damocles, over each
+member, from the grey grandfather to the mere stripling. As he went
+about his daily work, chatting with his most trusted neighbours, one of
+the latter might open his hand and reveal the small sacred stone which
+was his death-warrant, delivered by the priest to the man who craved
+some special boon, as a symbol that the god required a human sacrifice.
+Well did the doomed man know how useless was resistance. His neighbours
+knew no pity, and a brief struggle invariably resulted in his being
+clubbed and carried to the _marae_.
+
+Now the supply of victims was furnished from among those known to favour
+the new faith; and many a pathetic story is still told of the
+unflinching courage with which those brave martyrs met their fate, only
+pleading with their murderers that they too should renounce their idols
+and worship the living God.
+
+As in the early days of the Church, so now, homes were divided: the
+believing wife was beaten by her heathen husband, children were driven
+from their parents’ roofs, and friends were turned to foes—all in the
+name of the gods.
+
+Those who worshipped the Saviour were distinguished by the name of Bure
+Atua (from _bure_, to pray, and _Atua_, God).
+
+In spite of the persecution, their numbers steadily increased, and at
+last three of the principal chiefs of Tahiti, who had hitherto been
+sworn foes, resolved to unite their forces for the total annihilation of
+the Bure Atua sect. A midnight meeting was appointed when the
+conspirators were suddenly to fall on their sleeping, unsuspecting
+neighbours, and slaughter great and small. Happily, a few hours before
+the massacre was to have taken place, the Christians received a secret
+hint of what was in store for them, and were able to reach the shore,
+launch their canoes, and sail for Eimeo. When, at the midnight hour,
+their foes reached the trysting-place, and found their victims flown,
+their rage knew no bounds, and angry recriminations commenced, which
+soon passed on to blows, ending in a free fight, in which one of the
+principal chiefs was killed, and his followers compelled to fly.
+
+In those turbulent days, it needed but a beginning to kindle a fierce
+war, and so it now proved. The heathen tribes having fallen out amongst
+themselves, seemed to forget their enmity to the Christians, and fought
+blindly among themselves. Beautiful and richly cultivated districts were
+reduced to desolation, houses burnt and property plundered, and numbers
+of the vanquished fled to Eimeo, to join the king and his party. Finally
+the weaker tribes fled to rocky fortresses in the mountains, leaving one
+tribe—the Oropaa—masters of the whole island.
+
+These presently sent messengers to those who had taken refuge in Eimeo,
+inviting them to return to their homes in Tahiti. This they agreed to
+do; but, according to native custom, King Pomare accompanied them to
+reinstate them in their lands. With him came a very large train of
+followers, who were chiefly Christians, and when they approached the
+shore of Tahiti, the pagan party refused to let them land. However, that
+point was yielded.
+
+On the following Sunday, about 800 of the king’s party assembled for
+divine worship. Happily they had taken the precaution of assembling
+armed, for in the middle of service a firing of muskets was heard, and a
+large body of men, bearing the flags of the gods, and all emblems of
+idolatry, were seen marching towards the place where they were
+assembled. Very striking is the story of that day’s contest. When the
+enemy was seen approaching, King Pomare arose and bade all remember that
+they were under the special protection of Jehovah, and that, having met
+to worship Him, they must not be diverted from their purpose. So all
+stood up to sing the accustomed hymn, then knelt in united prayer. They
+then formed themselves into three columns, the women taking their place
+among the men, resolved, like them, to fight with spear and musket. Thus
+they awaited the attack of the foe. The battle-field was a strip of
+ground between the sea and the mountains, covered with patches of
+brushwood. Under cover of these, the Christians again and again
+throughout the day knelt by twos and by threes to crave the help of the
+Almighty. After some hours of desperate fighting, Upufara, the highest
+chief of the heathen, was killed. His party were so disheartened that a
+panic seized them, and they fled from the field, never pausing till they
+reached their strongholds in the mountains.
+
+Thus the king’s party remained in undisputed possession, and prepared,
+as in old days, to follow up their victory. But King Pomare had learnt a
+new lesson in war. He forbade any of his people to pursue the
+vanquished, or to enter their villages, either to plunder the gardens or
+molest their wives and families. He, however, selected a trustworthy
+force, and bade them march to Tautira, to the temple of Oro, and totally
+destroy both temple and idol, and everything connected with the old
+worship. At eventide he bade the chiefs call together the congregation
+which had been so ruthlessly disturbed in the morning, and all knelt
+together in solemn thanksgiving for their great deliverance from so
+strong a foe.
+
+The party whom he had despatched on so righteous a mission of
+destruction, carried out his orders implicitly. They turned neither to
+the right hand nor the left, till they reached Tautira, where they fully
+expected that the priests and people would make a stand in defence of
+their gods. They, however, met with no opposition from the crowds, who
+stood silently round while they entered the temple, hitherto held so
+sacred, and bringing out the idol, stripped him of his coverings, and
+exposed a rude unhewn log, about six feet long, of casuarina wood.
+Having utterly destroyed the temples, altars, and other idols, they
+carried off the rude log which for so many years had been the national
+god of Tahiti, and for the possession of which the land had, during the
+last thirty years, been made desolate by incessant wars. It was now
+turned to better use as a post in the king’s kitchen from which to
+suspend baskets of food. Eventually it was cut up for firewood.
+
+The effect of the king’s clemency to the vanquished was magical. At
+first it seemed to them utterly incomprehensible; but when, under cover
+of night, some ventured from their hiding-places, and found their homes
+and families all undisturbed, and learnt that the bodies of the slain
+had received honourable burial, instead of being given to the dogs and
+pigs, and that the king had proclaimed a free pardon to all, then one by
+one they came down from the mountains to tender their submission to the
+merciful conqueror, and to learn from him the secret of such new
+principles. Then they agreed that the faith which inspired such deeds
+was assuredly the best, and with one accord they determined to destroy
+all their idols, and desired that the king would send messengers to
+instruct them in the good way.
+
+Accordingly, those who had themselves been most diligent in learning,
+were sent to teach these new inquirers, and proved faithful and earnest
+in their work. But so great was the demand for teachers, that they were
+altogether unable to meet it; and in many a remote village, the people,
+having destroyed their idol temple, built a new house of prayer, where
+they met together to worship the God of the Christians, concerning whom
+they as yet knew so little, beyond the mercy practised by His followers.
+
+From this time forward, Christianity made steady progress; and when, in
+the year 1817, Mr Ellis arrived as a missionary in these isles, he found
+almost the entire population professing it, and apparently devout in
+their practice. Family worship was established in all the principal
+houses; and many had built in their gardens a small oratory, or, as they
+called it, _fare bure huna_—the house for hidden prayer.
+
+Already the grosser crimes of heathenism had been abandoned—especially
+the practice of infanticide, which had prevailed to so frightful an
+extent. In every district the schools were crowded, and those who had
+mastered the arts of reading and writing assisted in teaching those less
+advanced. Strange pictures presented themselves in these classes, where
+bright, intelligent children were often the instructors of aged men and
+women, priests and warriors, to whom learning was a hard task, but one
+which they were determined to master, that they might read for
+themselves the wonderful book which had taught such wisdom to their
+king.
+
+These were in truth earnest scholars. The only books that had as yet
+reached them, were a spelling-book, printed in England, and a summary of
+the Old and New Testaments, printed at Port Jackson. But of these there
+were few copies: and many of the people, in their anxiety to possess
+one, had prepared sheets of fine paper-mulberry fibre, on which, with a
+reed-pen, dipped in the sap of the banana-tree, they had carefully
+copied out whole pages of the reading-lessons, or fragments of the
+sacred Scriptures. Others had committed the whole to memory.
+
+Great, therefore, was their excitement and delight when Mr Ellis arrived
+at Afareaitu, bringing with him a good printing-press. Crowds besieged
+the printing-office day and night, to watch the progress of setting up
+the types,—the king himself preparing the first alphabet. His delight
+when the first sheet was struck off, equalled that of his people; and
+all felt that it was a marked day in the history of Tahiti, when her
+king, with his own hands, printed the first page of the first book
+published in the South Sea Isles.
+
+The binding of the volumes was the next interest. The supply of
+millboard was small; but again the fibre of the paper-mulberry was
+turned to account, several layers being pressed together to form a stiff
+pasteboard, which was then coloured with the purple dye obtained from
+the mountain-plantain; or else thin wooden boards were used, and covered
+with the skin of whatever animal could be procured,—goat, cat, or dog:
+and the new art of tanning was among the earliest industries of the
+isle.
+
+Hitherto all books circulated in the isles had been distributed
+gratuitously, but it was deemed wiser for every reason, henceforth to
+exact a small payment in cocoa-nut oil, which was the article most
+easily obtained by the people. So great was their anxiety to purchase
+the books, that there were sometimes as many as thirty or forty canoes
+drawn up on the beach, having come from different remote villages, and
+having each brought several persons, whose sole object was to procure
+the precious volume, not only for themselves, but for others. Some who
+were thus commissioned, were the bearers of huge bundles of green
+plantain-leaves, each rolled up like a parchment scroll, and being, in
+fact, a written order for a copy of the book, payment for which was sent
+in the form of a bamboo measure filled with oil. Many of these
+messengers waited for several weeks ere the copies could be supplied;
+and some of the more urgent refused to leave the mission premises till
+the books were delivered to them, lest other men should slip in before
+them and carry off the coveted treasures.
+
+When we consider that teachers were so few, and worshippers so numerous,
+and that many large congregations assembled in the chapels they had
+built for Christian prayer, firmly believing that HE in whose name they
+had met, was there present; yet having none to lead their worship, save,
+perhaps, a newly converted priest of Oro, or a professional dancer,
+hitherto sunk in every form of vice,—we can the better understand the
+extreme anxiety of the people to possess the books which were the
+storehouses of excellent knowledge.
+
+Have you ever realised the innumerable difficulties under which these
+early publishers had to contend? To begin with, they had themselves to
+reduce barbarous and hitherto unknown tongues to a written language,—no
+easy matter, considering that many of these dialects are so rich as to
+possess far more words to express shades of meaning than any European
+language.[62] So, beginning with the alphabet, they had to work out
+equivalents for words in which the slightest change of accent conveys
+totally different meanings; then they had to puzzle out very intricate
+grammatical structures, and, having mastered all this, had to commence
+the very difficult work of translating so large a book as the Bible—a
+book, moreover, treating of spiritual truths which it was hard indeed to
+render comprehensible to such very materialistic minds as these.
+
+Yet in the short space of about thirty years, the Scriptures have been
+translated into about twenty different languages, all previously
+unknown; and there is not one group throughout Polynesia, the people of
+which do not now read the Scriptures in their own tongue. The same good
+work is now gradually extending throughout Melanesia also; and even New
+Guinea, which, ten years ago, was an unknown land, has already received
+portions of the New Testament in the language spoken by at least one of
+its tribes.
+
+Considering the extremely volatile nature of these light-hearted people,
+the exceeding earnestness with which they seem to have entered into the
+requirements of a spiritual religion, is very remarkable. They had,
+however, been early trained to a belief in the necessity of
+whole-hearted attention, and reverence in the worship of their idols. It
+mattered not how large and costly might be the offerings, and how
+careful the ceremonial, should the priest omit, or even misplace, any
+word in the appointed prayers, or should his attention be diverted, the
+prayer was unavailing; other victims must be brought, and the whole
+ceremony repeated from the beginning.
+
+So, too, the rigid observance of the Jewish Sabbatical laws seemed a
+natural requirement to a people who, from their infancy, had been taught
+implicit obedience to the laws of _tabu_, or sacred seasons, when, at
+the bidding of priest or chief, no fire must be kindled, no canoe
+launched, and neither food nor drink might be tasted, under severest
+penalties. When, therefore, the early missionaries declared one day in
+seven to be strictly _tabu_, and themselves gave the example by
+abstaining from every sort of secular employment, even preparing their
+own food on the previous day (which was hence called the _mahana maa_,
+or food-day), the natives willingly obeyed, and proved themselves
+capable of such close and continuous attention to spiritual subjects as
+the majority of Christians nowadays would find wellnigh impossible.
+
+So, too, with the custom of saying grace before eating, which is so
+strictly practised by all the converts in Polynesia. It was the more
+readily adopted because, in heathen days, no morsel might pass the lips
+of any member of the family till the chief person present had offered a
+portion to the gods, adding a few words of prayer for their protection
+and blessing. In some instances they chanted a form of thanksgiving for
+the good things received, as being the gift of the gods.
+
+I have written this story of old days somewhat at length, from a
+conviction that it is probably almost unknown to you, and must surely
+prove interesting, though I am fully aware that it cannot be so to you
+in the same degree as it is to me, who have heard the story for the
+first time on the very spot where those terrible scenes were formerly
+enacted, and where the marvellous change was actually wrought.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXI.
+ A HEALING TREE—PLANTATION LIFE—VANILLA CROPS—CAT-AND-DOG LIFE—A FOILED
+    ASSASSIN—THE TROPICS OF TO-DAY—ENGLAND IN DAYS OF YORE—AMONG THE
+                    CRAGS—INFANTICIDE—HEATHEN DAYS.
+
+
+                                           _Chez_ MADAME BRUN, PAPETOAI,
+                                               _Monday Night_.
+
+Another long day in scenes of dream-like loveliness. Early as I always
+awaken, the little trio were astir before me, waiting in their
+bathing-dresses to escort me to the shore, dancing joyously as sunbeams,
+and most carefully pioneering my path through the shallow water, so as
+to avoid the very unpleasant chance of treading on sea-hedgehogs and
+other spiny creatures. There are so very few places in the isles where
+sea-bathing is altogether free from danger of sharks, that it is a
+luxury on which we rarely venture, and therefore appreciate it all the
+more.
+
+Immediately after early chocolate, a friendly gendarme lent me his horse
+(I had brought my own saddle), and, not without some cowardly qualms, I
+rode off alone in search of Madame Valles’s plantation. The road lay
+along the shore—a lovely grass path, overshadowed by all manner of
+beautiful trees, of which the most conspicuous is here called the
+_tamanu_, an old acquaintance with a new name. In Fiji it is called
+_ndelo_. It is common not only throughout Polynesia but also in the East
+Indies, and in Mauritius.[63]
+
+In all these lands this noble tree grows and flourishes, just above
+high-water mark, on what seems to us the most arid sandy shores, and
+outstretches its wide branches with their rich dark foliage, casting
+cool delicious shadows on the dazzling coral-sands, a boon to tired
+eyes, weary of the mid-day glare.
+
+It is a tree for the healing of the nations. Its large glossy leaves,
+when soaked in fresh water, are valuable in reducing inflammation of the
+eyes; and its round green fruit contains a small grey ball, within which
+lies a kernel, which yields about sixty per cent of a green-coloured
+bitter oil, worth about £90 a ton in the Anglo-Indian market. It is an
+invaluable remedy as a liniment in all forms of rheumatism, rheumatic
+fever, bruises, stiffness, and similar ailments. Throughout the isles
+its virtues are fully recognised, but it is only prepared in small
+quantities for domestic use, and stored by prudent householders, in
+hollow gourds, which are the correct substitute for bottles. The labour
+of expressing the oil, by any hand process, is so great as to prevent an
+extensive manufacture; and I am not aware that any machinery for this
+purpose has found its way to the Pacific, though it does seem a pity
+that so valuable a product should be wasted, as it now is.
+
+Wherever we go, in any of these isles, the sea-beach is strewn with
+myriads of these, and other seeds, some of which, such as the gigantic
+climbing-bean,[64] have been washed down by the mountain streams; while
+others, such as these grey balls, and the curious square-shaped seeds of
+the Barringtonia, in their outer case of nature-woven fibre, drop from
+the boughs which overhang the sea. The white blossom of the _tamanu_
+trees is both fragrant and ornamental, and many a pleasant hour have I
+spent on many a lovely isle, alone (save for the omnipresent army of
+hermit-crabs) beneath the shade of these grand trees, beside the cool
+blue waters of the Pacific.
+
+I had no difficulty in finding Madame Valles’s home—a lovely nest,
+perched high on the hillside, with a background of grey rock-pinnacles
+and crags. The house is embowered in greenery, and from its verandahs
+you look through a frame of pure scarlet hybiscus to the bluest of
+lagoons, divided from the purply ocean beyond by the line of gleaming
+white breakers which bound the coral-reef.
+
+M. Valles is at present very unwell, and quite a prisoner, so double
+work falls to the lot of Madame Valles, who has to do most of her own
+cooking and house-work, milk her own cow, and attend with unwearied care
+to that most precarious of all crops, vanilla. So you see that even in
+Moorea plantation life is not luxurious.
+
+The great difficulty here is to obtain labour; and there is not one
+regular servant or labourer on this estate. Fifteen acres of coffee have
+all run wild, and grown into tall straggling bushes, from total lack of
+hands to tend it. As there is no one to gather the crop of ripe red
+coffee cherries, they are left to drop, and the rats eat the soft fruit,
+leaving the beans untouched; so the family collect these, all ready
+pulped, and devoutly wish the rats were ten times as numerous.
+
+But the most precious crop here is vanilla, which is both pretty and
+lucrative, being worth about four dollars a pound. It is a luxuriant
+creeper, and grows so freely that a branch broken off and falling on the
+ground takes root of its own accord; and it climbs all over the tall
+coffee shrubs, the palms, _avocat_ pear and orange trees, and everything
+that comes in its way, growing best on living wood, the tendrils thence
+deriving sustenance. It also flourishes best in unweeded grounds, the
+roots being thereby kept cool.
+
+So the steep wooded hillside is densely matted with this fragrant spice,
+which scents the whole air,—indeed the atmosphere of the house is
+redolent of vanilla. It is like living in a spice-box, as the pods are
+laid to dry in every available corner. They must be gathered unripe, and
+dried in a moist warm place; sometimes they are packed under layers of
+quilts to prevent them from bursting, and so losing their fragrant
+essence.
+
+All this sounds very pleasant, and only suggests light work, yet in
+truth this cultivation involves most exhausting toil. The plant is an
+exotic; it lives in these isles by the will of the planter, not by
+nature’s law. In its native home exquisite humming-birds hover over its
+blossoms, therein darting their long bills in search of honey, and
+drawing them forth, clogged with the golden pollen, which they carry to
+the next flower, thus doing nature’s work of fertilisation.
+
+Here the flowers have no such dainty wooers, and the vanilla bears no
+fruit unless fertilised by human hand. So M. and Madame Valles, and
+their son, divide the steep hillside into three sections, and each
+morning they patiently but wearily toil up and down, up and down, again,
+and again, and again, in order to manipulate each blossom that has
+expanded during the night. “Faire le mariage des fleurs,” as Madame
+Valles describes her daily task, is no sinecure; it must be done during
+the hottest hours of the day, when any exertion is most exhausting. It
+needs a keen eye to detect each fresh blossom, and any neglected flower
+withers and drops. Each day the ripening pods must be gathered, and in
+dry weather the plants require frequent watering—an indescribable toil.
+
+This morning Madame Valles let me accompany her on her morning rounds,
+whereby I realised that toil and hardship are to be found even in
+paradise.
+
+We returned to breakfast, which was served by an old French soldier—a
+garrulous old fellow, and evidently quite a “character.” Apparently his
+life is a burden to him, by reason of the multitude of half-tamed
+animals which swarm about the place. In the dining-room were three old
+and six young cats; two large, three medium, and many small dogs,—all
+hungrily clamouring for food, and only kept off the table by the free
+use of a large, resounding whip.
+
+In the afternoon M. Brun came in search of me, and we rode to the head
+of the bay, where there is a beautiful estate, and large comfortable
+house, built many years ago by an English planter, who failed, and the
+place was bought by Dr Michelli, an Italian, who chanced just then to be
+conveying a cargo of Chinese coolies to Peru. So many died on the voyage
+that he determined to halt at Tahiti, and give the survivors time to
+recruit. Finding this very desirable property in the market, he
+concluded that the part of wisdom was to go no further. So here he
+settled with about fifty Chinamen, who work the land and give him a
+third of the profits, while he rides about the mountains, and shoots
+wild cattle for their common use.
+
+His surroundings are somewhat polyglot. The cook is an Englishman;
+servants of various degree are Tahitian; while the overseer, M.
+Bellemare, is a French _externe-politique_, who was exiled for firing at
+the late Emperor Louis Napoléon—a crime which the Emperor seems to have
+punished on the Biblical principle of heaping coals of fire, in the form
+of unmerited reward; for during his lifetime M. Bellemare received a
+regular pension and lived on the fat of the land—a clemency which
+certainly failed to awaken one thrill of gratitude in the would-be
+assassin. The pension having expired with the death of the Emperor, M.
+Bellemare has been obliged to seek remunerative occupation, which he has
+here found.
+
+                                                        _Tuesday, 11th._
+
+Again a delightful sea-bathe, followed by real French chocolate, and
+then the charming little trio constituted themselves my guides, and led
+me by difficult, and to me undiscernible paths, over the wooded hills,
+and through _la brousse_, which consists of dense guava scrub, to
+various points, from which we obtained lovely views of the harbour. The
+walk involved an amount of severe scrambling which, even to me, was
+somewhat trying; but the children skipped along over rock and crag like
+young kids, only pausing, with charmingly pretty manners, to see if I
+required their aid, and bringing me all manner of treasures of fruit and
+flowers.
+
+I fear no description can possibly convey to your mind a true picture of
+the lovely woods through which we wander just where fancy leads us,
+knowing that no hurtful creature of any sort lurks among the mossy rocks
+or in the rich undergrowth of ferns. Here and there we come on patches
+of soft green turf, delightfully suggestive of rest, beneath the broad
+shadow of some great tree with buttressed roots; but more often the
+broken rays of sunlight gleam in ten thousand reflected lights, dancing
+and glancing as they shimmer on glossy leaves of every form and
+shade—from the huge silky leaves of the wild plantain or the giant arum,
+to the waving palm-fronds, which are so rarely at rest, but flash and
+gleam like polished swords as they bend and twist with every breath of
+air.
+
+It has just occurred to me that probably you have no very distinct idea
+of the shape of a cocoa-palm leaf, which does not bear the slightest
+resemblance to the palmettos in the greenhouse. It consists of a strong
+mid-rib, about eight feet long, which, at the end next to the tree,
+spreads out, very much as your two clenched fists, placed side by side,
+do from your wrists. The other end tapers to a point. For a space of
+about two feet the stalk is bare; then along the remaining six feet a
+regiment of short swords, graduated from two feet to eighteen inches in
+length, are set close together on each side of the mid-rib. Of course
+the faintest stir of the leaf causes these multitudinous swordlets to
+flash in the sunlight. Hence the continual effect of glittering light,
+and also the extreme difficulty of securing a good photograph of a
+cocoa-palm.
+
+A little lower than these tall queens of the coral-isles, rise
+fairy-like canopies of graceful tree-ferns, often festooned with most
+delicate lianas; and there are places where not these only, but the
+larger trees, are literally matted together by the dense growth of the
+beautiful large-leaved white convolvulus, or the smaller lilac ipomæa,
+which twines round the tall stems of the palms, and overspreads the
+light fronds, like some green waterfall. Many of the larger trees are
+clothed with parasitic ferns; huge bird’s-nest ferns grow in the forks
+of the branches, as do various orchids, the dainty children of the mist,
+so that the stems are wellnigh as green as everything else in that
+wilderness of lovely forms. It is a very inanimate paradise, however. I
+rarely see any birds or butterflies, only a few lizards and an
+occasional dragon-fly; and the voice of singing-birds, such as gladden
+our hearts in humble English woods, is here mute—so we have at least
+this compensation, for the lack of all the wild luxuriance which here is
+so fascinating.
+
+I wonder if a time will ever come when these fairy isles shall have
+passed through changes as marvellous as those which geologists teach us
+to trace in Old England.
+
+Have you ever fully realised that “once upon a time” all the strange
+beautiful plants which we call tropical, were growing in rank luxuriance
+on English soil? I believe that the curious diapered stem of the quaint
+papawa is one of our common fossil forms. In Dr Buckland’s museum at
+Oxford, I remember seeing unmistakable fruit of a screw-pine (pandanus)
+found in the Oolite, near Charmouth. As to the London Clay, the Isle of
+Sheppey seems wholly composed of relics of tropical plants, turtles,
+serpents, and shells, now unknown save in these warm isles. I have seen
+a drawing of the section of a fossil fruit found there, which might have
+been made from a split bread-fruit; also nuts greatly resembling those
+of the cocoa and areca palms. The custard-apple is found there, and the
+dracæna and yucca, and many another tropical leaf and fruit. Would that
+they grew there now!
+
+Picture to yourself a time when the bleak Northumbrian coast was a
+forest like one of these, and the coals, of which we now so gladly heap
+up blazing fires, were all beautiful ferns and palms, waving in the warm
+sunlight! Truly it is hard to realise. Even the dragon-flies and lizards
+of those antediluvian forests are preserved, and spiders and scorpions.
+As to the chalk and lias and limestone, they give us sponges and corals
+and zoophytes enough to build up any number of coral-reefs; and there
+are great turban echini with heavy spines, like those we find here, and
+star-fish innumerable, and teeth and vertebræ of sharks and ray.
+
+So that there really was a time when Old England must have been as
+fascinating as any South Sea isle. What she may have been in the days of
+the mammoth and megatherium, and all the gruesome race, restored for our
+edification at the Crystal Palace, is quite another matter; the very
+idea is suggestive of nightmare!
+
+                                                  _Wednesday, 12th Dec._
+
+This has been a grey stormy day, with heavy showers, but as Dr Michelli
+had promised to escort me up the valley to the foot of the mighty crags,
+I could not lose so good an opportunity; and indeed such solemn mountain
+scenes only borrow fresh grandeur from the gloom, so that I almost
+prefer a stormy leaden sky for such an expedition; besides, it is no
+small gain to have a veiled sun, as its full rays, when refracted by the
+black trap dikes, make the ascent somewhat of a toil.
+
+The friendly gendarme again lent me his horse to ride to the head of the
+harbour, where the Doctor had other steeds ready for the mountain.
+Unfortunately he himself was unwell, and so was obliged to commit me to
+the care of the _externe-politique_, who fulfilled his trust admirably,
+though I confess that it gave me something of an eerie feeling to find
+myself at a height of 2000 feet above my fellow-men, sitting quietly
+sketching among black crags and floating mists, alone with a would-be
+murderer, who, glorying in his shame, entertained me at great length
+with a most animated description of the whole story, nor spared me one
+of his poignant regrets at the failure of his vile attempt.
+
+The scenery on every side was magnificent. Huge indigo-coloured
+mountain-masses looming out awfully through the floating
+cloud-wreaths—tremendous precipices—deep mysterious ravines—right above
+me towered a gigantic square-shaped mountain, and beyond it one vast
+pinnacle. You never can lose the impression of cyclopean fortifications
+and watch-towers. The higher ridges are absolutely inaccessible; but
+adventurous cragsmen sometimes find their way by tracks which wild goats
+would shun—narrow ledges by which they can creep along the face of a
+precipice, and so pass on to another ravine, or scramble from ledge to
+ledge with the help of ropes. “Le jeu vaut-il la chandelle?” I should
+say not.
+
+From the highest point we reached, I obtained a grand view of the
+valley, which lay bathed in sunlight, while we were shrouded in mountain
+gloom, with a storm fast gathering overhead. Far below us, beyond the
+orange-groves and the cultivated lands, lay the two harbours, Pao Pao
+and Opunohu—two calm lagoons lying to right and left of a mighty
+rock-pyramid, which is crowned with trap ridges, so narrow as here and
+there to have altogether worn away, leaving arches and apertures through
+which the sky is seen, as through the eye of a needle. This is a common
+feature of the ridges which form the centre of this strange isle, and
+which are thus pierced in many places—a phenomenon duly accounted for in
+Tahitian legends by the spear-thrusts of certain demigods and heroes.
+
+A few heavy rain-drops, with a prospect of abundance to follow,
+compelled me to abandon this splendid sketching-ground, and return to
+the lower world, where the Doctor awaited my return, to share an
+excellent breakfast, with all the delicacies of Moorea. One of these,
+which is perhaps unknown to you, is the Abercarder pear, or, as it is
+called in India, “subaltern’s butter,” a pear-shaped fruit, the size of
+a big man’s fist. Within its green rind lies the softest melting pulp,
+really like vegetable butter, with a large round seed in the centre.
+This fruit is either eaten with pepper and salt, or else beaten up with
+lemon-juice and sugar; and it is excellent in either form. The chief
+difficulty is to secure it, as all animals have a passion for it; cows,
+horses, even dogs and cats, watch for the falling of the ripe fruit, and
+quickly despatch it.
+
+After breakfast I rode back here, and found my host and hostess just
+starting for the village, so I strolled along with them to see the big
+coral church, memorable as having been the first built in this group, a
+monument of early zeal, and a wonderful triumph of will over
+difficulties. But now, whether from diminished energy or decreased
+population I know not, the place is falling into disrepair, and suggests
+retrogression.
+
+But the bird-cage homes of the people are charming, and the inmates are
+charming, and the brown-eyed olive-coloured babies, and their most
+careful little brothers and sisters, are especially attractive. To-day I
+have seen the loveliest baby I have ever yet met with. Of Italian and
+Tahitian parentage, it receives a double heritage of beauty, and the
+little Aurora is destined hereafter to take her place among the fairest
+maidens of Italy.
+
+Certainly children here have a very happy time of it. What with
+idolising parents, and friends who seem always ready to play with them,
+their only danger lies on the side of excessive spoiling. And yet, in
+heathen days, the Tahitians were as noted for infanticide as the
+Sandwich Islanders,—with the one difference that here, the poor little
+unwelcome guests were disposed of at the very moment of their birth, and
+if spared for even a few minutes they were generally saved; whereas in
+Hawaii, the system of child-murder was much more deliberate.
+
+The extent to which it was practised in both groups makes one marvel how
+the isles failed to be wholly depopulated. Though offspring were
+generally numerous, few parents cared to rear more than three children;
+a man with four was looked upon as a _taata taubuu buu_—that is, a man
+with a heavy burden. The majority of Tahitian women in pagan days spoke
+openly, and without the slightest shame, of having put to death
+half-a-dozen helpless innocents, while some confessed to ten or twelve;
+and when the missionaries and their wives implored these women to spare
+their little ones, yet unborn, their words were heard with derision, and
+the cruel mothers would return to boast how they had obeyed the custom
+of the isles, in defiance of white men’s counsel.
+
+Afterwards, when these same women had become Christians, they would come
+to the school festivals, at which were sometimes gathered several
+hundred happy children, whose lives had been spared in obedience to a
+better law; and often, with bitter tears, did these childless mothers
+bewail their own dead offspring, murdered by their own hands. At one
+such meeting, a venerable chief arose to address the people, and show,
+by contrast with the past, how great was their present gain. Pointing to
+a troop of comely lads and lasses, he said: “Large was my family, but I
+alone remain. I am the father of nineteen children; all of them I have
+murdered: now my heart longs for them. Had I spared them, they would now
+have been men and women, knowing the word of the true God. But all died
+in the service of the false gods, and now my heart is repenting—is
+weeping for them.”
+
+One of the chief women, who, having learnt to read at the age of sixty,
+had proved a most useful school teacher, was bitterly troubled in the
+hour of death by the thought of her sixteen children, every one of whom
+she had herself put to death. But there was scarcely a woman who had
+attained middle age ere the spread of Christianity, who was not haunted
+by the same sad memories; and one visitor to Tahiti has recorded his
+amazement when, on his expressing his belief that statements had been
+exaggerated, his friend appealed to three most respectable,
+motherly-looking women, who chanced to be sitting in the room quietly
+sewing, and quite at random, asked each in turn how many of her children
+she had killed. With shame and evident pain, the first, with faltering
+voice, replied, “I have destroyed nine;” the second said she had killed
+five; the third had killed seven. So that these three women casually
+selected, had killed twenty-one children!
+
+It seems scarcely credible that such deeds were perpetrated by the same
+race whom we now see so gentle and loving; but heathenism always tended
+to cruelty.
+
+In nothing was this more apparent than in the treatment of the sick.
+Generally speaking, the best a sick man could hope for was simple
+neglect. As soon as it was evident that his illness would be protracted,
+a hut of cocoa-palm leaves was built for him at a little distance, and
+he was carried there. For a while he was supplied with food and drink;
+but his friends soon grew careless, and so often forgot him, that he
+very probably died of starvation. Should he be possessed of property
+coveted by his neighbours, he was very likely murdered with the most
+wanton barbarity. His “friends” having determined on his death,
+proceeded to his hut, armed with their spears; and, unheeding of his
+cries for mercy, they treated him as a target, trying who could take
+best aim, till at length some one, more merciful than the others, rushed
+in and pierced him through the heart.
+
+At other times the sick were buried alive. Their relations dug a pit,
+and then, pretending that they would carry the sufferer to the river to
+bathe, they threw him into the ready-made grave, and drowned his cries
+by quickly throwing in stones and earth. Sometimes the victim perceived
+what was in store for him, and endeavoured to escape; but he was
+invariably captured by his murderers, and carried to his untimely grave.
+
+Almost the first great change wrought by Christianity was in the care of
+the sick, who now are nursed with the utmost tenderness, the natives
+having, many years ago, formed themselves into societies for the express
+purpose of building houses, where the aged and helpless, who have no
+friends or children to tend them at home, may be fed and clothed, and
+comforted by the ministrations of Christian teachers.
+
+In one respect, the people of Tahiti, like those of Samoa, proved
+superior to most other Pacific islanders. There is no evidence of their
+having ever been cannibals. While their neighbours in the Paumotus and
+the Marquesas, in the Hervey Isles and New Zealand, and in nearly every
+group throughout the Western Pacific, never lost a chance of feasting on
+human flesh, these gentler savages, like those of Samoa, do not seem to
+have been tempted by the hideous fare. They contented themselves with
+heaping insult on the bodies of the slain, which were often brutally
+mutilated.
+
+Nothing amazes me more than to hear travellers and others occasionally
+talk with positive regret of the work of missionaries of all
+denominations, throughout these various groups of isles. To hear them
+speak, you would suppose that the natives, in their untutored state,
+were the most innocent, loving, and attractive of mortals. Surely such
+men can know nothing of the past, and of the dangers incurred by the
+early teachers, to whose earnest labours in the beginning of the present
+century those ungrateful talkers owe their own present safety. But even
+in those days the worst dangers and the most virulent opposition
+encountered by the missionaries were almost invariably stirred up by
+iniquitous white men—generally sailors and shipmasters.[65]
+
+Certainly the Tahitians, as we now see them, are as gentle and
+affectionate as it is possible for a people to be. Most kind and
+hospitable, always cheerful and good-natured, easily pleased and amused,
+finding matter for mirth in every trifle; so that angry words or
+recriminations are rarely heard, but rather a sound of rippling
+laughter, which seems here to pervade the very air. A messenger is just
+going across to Tahiti to take letters, and to fetch any that may have
+arrived by the schooner from San Francisco. I shall send this as a
+postscript to my last, which will probably reach you at the same
+time.—So good-bye.
+
+                                                     YOUR LOVING SISTER.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XXII.
+     LIFE ON MOOREA—AN ANCIENT PLACE OF SACRIFICE—ARRIVAL OF H.M.S.
+                 SHAH—HOSPITALITIES ON LAND AND WATER.
+
+
+                             FRENCH MISSION, PAPETOAI, _Saturday Night_.
+
+This has been a glorious day of unclouded sunlight, and in order that I
+might enjoy it to the full, my kind hosts planned a family picnic on the
+other side of the bay. There was no available boat, only a tiny canoe,
+so we crossed in several detachments, till all were safely landed on the
+opposite shore, where we established ourselves beneath the shade of some
+noble iron-wood trees, whence the view of towering mountains, laughing
+valley, and blue waters was so entrancing, that I at once settled down
+to sketch, while the little ones disported themselves in the shallow
+waters, therein capturing small crabs, and sea-urchins, and many other
+treasures, till the kindling of a fire, and preparation of our gipsy
+breakfast, afforded them fresh occupation and delight.
+
+What a pleasant feast they spread on the briny grass, and with what
+hospitality they ministered to our numerous self-invited guests, the
+hermit-crabs! Less welcome were the inevitable mosquitoes, but to-day
+there was sufficient breeze to disperse them in a great measure; and
+after breakfast we wandered along the shore, and the strange lady from
+Beretania was introduced to the gentle inmates of many a bird-cage home!
+
+Oh dear, how fascinating is this simple, kindly, island life! Each day
+leaves me more and more captivated by the loveliness of these isles of
+paradise, where our eyes always rest on some scene of beauty, wherever
+they turn. Each halting-place seems more charming than the last, and the
+only sorrow is having to leave it, to pass on to another, which in its
+turn becomes as attractive. Each week makes me wonder more how I shall
+ever be able to settle down to a humdrum existence in well-appointed
+English houses, with their regiments of fine servants, and wearisome
+conventionalities of social life! I vote that, instead of my having to
+do so, you should come out here and learn what true enjoyment means.
+
+But, alas! my days in Moorea are for the present drawing to a close, for
+on our return this evening I found kind letters from Mrs Brander and
+from the governor, M. D’Oncieue, telling me of the arrival of H.M.S.
+Shah, and requesting that, as a good British subject, I would hasten
+back to share in the festivities to be held in her honour.
+
+                                                       _Sunday Evening._
+
+A morning of peaceful delight on the silent shore, and a long afternoon
+stroll by myself, to drink in deep draughts of never-to-be-forgotten
+enjoyment, of one of the loveliest spots in all this fair creation. We
+had planned various pleasant expeditions for this week, but it seems
+best to defer them; so I am to leave my baggage here to take its chance
+of following me, and I am to ride to the other side of the island,
+whence it is probable that a boat may go across to Papeete within a day
+or two.
+
+                                   HAAPITI, ISLE MOOREA, _Monday Night_.
+
+Bidding a provisional farewell to my charming hostess and my little
+guides, I started in the fresh early morning, accompanied by M. Brun.
+The whole ride was exquisite, though in places the beautiful forest has
+suffered from ruthless carelessness, and many splendid old iron-wood
+trees stand scathed and half-burnt by accidental fires. On our arrival
+here, the big man of the village welcomed us to his house, and gave us
+breakfast.
+
+You may remember that it was at this place that Mrs Brander, in her
+character of high chiefess of the isle, gave such a picturesque welcome
+to the young king and queen. To-day the district was in its normal
+condition of quiet—no crowds, no _himènes_, no feasting, save and except
+the fatted fowl which perished on our arrival. Only the natural beauty
+remained, unchanged and unsurpassable. I cannot believe that even the
+Marquesas can be more beautiful, nor yet the nearer isle of Bora-Bora,
+of which the Tahitians speak as of a marvel of loveliness, with its
+towering rock-pinnacles and lofty crags, so veiled with trailing vines
+as to resemble green waterfalls.
+
+After breakfast we got a canoe and rowed back for a considerable
+distance along the shore to a fine old _marae_—an immense platform of
+huge blocks of hewn coral, on a pyramidal base, which in olden days was
+a heathen altar, and also a tomb. Close by it are two smaller _marais_
+and a large sacrificial stone, enclosed by a wall of small coral blocks.
+The whole place is overgrown by grand old iron-wood trees (_casuarina_).
+After we had left it, we were told of a stone image, four or five feet
+high, which has somehow escaped the general destruction of its fellows;
+and I was very sorry to have missed seeing so interesting a survivor of
+a past so recent and yet so thoroughly extinguished.
+
+This is the only _marae_ I have seen, the majority having been
+destroyed, together with the temples and the altars, when the people, in
+the zeal of first love, endeavoured to sweep away every trace of the old
+idolatry.
+
+Mr Ellis has recorded that one huge _marae_ having been destroyed, the
+natives used the stones composing it to build an immense platform, on
+which was spread a great feast for all the children of the school (both
+boys and girls, in number about 240) and their parents. The point of
+interest lay in the fact that in heathen times it would have been death
+for a girl or a woman to set foot in the _marae_, or to taste the food
+which was there offered. Indeed all the better sorts of food, such as
+pig and fowl, were reserved exclusively for the men and the gods; and
+the fire with which men’s food was cooked was also sacred; no woman
+dared to use it—her simpler fare must be cooked apart, and eaten in a
+separate hut. So a united festival, such as that held on the ruins of
+the _marae_, was in every sense a Christian love-feast, and strangely in
+contrast with the hideous scenes previously enacted on the spot, when
+the coral walls were dyed with the blood of human victims offered to the
+cruel war-gods, and where, in every crevice of the noble old trees, were
+seen bleaching human bones, skeletons hanging from the boughs, and
+beneath them, ghastly heaps of skulls, generally those of warriors slain
+in battle.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  ANCIENT MARAI AND BASALTIC NEEDLE.
+  ISLE MOOREA.
+]
+
+These horribly unfragrant _marais_ were also considered as family
+mausoleums, where the dried bones of great men might safely be
+deposited. Nevertheless, even the sanctity of the temple did not always
+protect the dead from ruthless spoliation; and in times of war the
+victors not only carried off the idols of the vanquished, but also the
+bones of their relations, to be converted into chisels or fish-hooks,
+which was considered the lowest depth of degradation.
+
+To avoid this danger, the dead were laid in small houses apart, and
+carefully watched, till the flesh fell from their bones, when these were
+collected by a trusty hand, and carried to some safe hiding-place in the
+mountains. In the case of any person of great note, this custom is still
+observed, as I learnt on visiting the little seaside chapel where old
+Queen Pomare was buried shortly before my arrival; and I was told her
+bones had been secretly removed, only three or four of her nearest
+kindred being aware of their present hiding-place.
+
+In olden days, however, a simple process of embalming was practised, by
+means of which the wealthier families could preserve their dead for
+about a year, not longer. The brain and intestines having been removed,
+they were replaced by cloth saturated with aromatic oils, which were
+also daily rubbed all over the corpse. Every day it was placed in a
+sitting posture in the sun, that it might gradually become dried up; and
+an altar was erected before it, on which were daily offered fresh
+flowers, and fruit, and other food. With this the relations or priests
+touched the lips of the dead several times a day, for, like the Chinese,
+they averred that the departed spirit came to feast on the spiritual
+essence[66] of the gross meats.
+
+Indeed the whole ceremony savours of Chinese custom. There was the same
+passionate ceremonial wailing for the dead, the same sort of religious
+service to appease the unquiet spirit, and prevent it from returning to
+earth to annoy the survivors. In place of burning paper effigies of
+horses, and houses, and other things likely to be useful in the
+spirit-world, the Tahitian priest placed about the corpse pieces of the
+stalk of the mountain-plantain, and told the dead that these were its
+parents, its wife, its children, and that with these it must be
+satisfied, and refrain from vexing the living.
+
+Here likewise, as in the Chinese cities of the dead, small low houses
+were built as temporary homes for the unburied corpses, which were laid
+on biers, and by day were drawn out into the sun; but by night the body
+lay horizontally, and was frequently turned, lest it should dry
+irregularly. When, notwithstanding all care, the poor body began to
+decay, then the skull was wrapped in cloth, and carried home to be
+preserved with the family gods, and duly worshipped. The bones were
+either buried or carried off to the mountains in the mysterious way I
+have already described.
+
+Although the Tahitian embalmers failed to preserve their dead for more
+than a year, the Samoans seem to have been more successful, though,
+apparently, only a limited number of the chiefs were thus honoured. Dr
+Turner, however, has seen bodies which had certainly been embalmed for
+upwards of thirty years, and were still in excellent preservation, when,
+on the death of the relations whose task it was to dress and tend the
+bodies, all were laid together beneath the sod. The office of embalmer
+was an exclusively feminine one, and the process observed in Samoa was
+exactly the same as that practised in Tahiti. The body was wrapped in
+native cloth, leaving the head, face, and hands exposed; these were
+occasionally anointed with scented oil and turmeric, to give a lifelike
+tinge to the complexion, and so were exhibited to all comers.
+
+I spoke of the wailing at funerals as ceremonial, because it was not
+only customary to weep frantically, rending the hair, tearing the
+garments, and uttering agonising cries, but it was also _de rigueur_ to
+display sympathy by inflicting on one’s self very serious wounds with
+instruments made for the purpose. Several rows of shark’s teeth were
+fixed in small canes, and with these the mourners smote their breasts,
+their heads, even their faces. One of these useful implements formed
+part of a girl’s bridal _trousseau_, that she might be ready to take her
+part in whatever scene of sorrow or of joy might present itself. For,
+strange to say, the same ceremonies were observed, though in a less
+excessive degree, to mark great happiness; and the safe return of a
+member of the family, or his escape from danger, was, and still is,
+marked by the shedding of what might be mistaken for bitter tears.
+Happily, however, the horrible custom of cutting and bruising one’s own
+flesh is a thing of the past; and friends no longer express sympathy
+with the bereaved by giving them strips of _tappa_ saturated in the
+blood thus voluntarily shed, to be preserved as precious memorials of
+affection!
+
+The one pleasant feature connected with the _marais_, as with so many
+forms of heathen worship, was the beautiful grove of old trees which
+surrounded them. Different tribes adopted special trees as clan badges,
+and planted these round their family shrines. Thus some were
+overshadowed by huge banyan trees, others by the noble _tamanu_, or
+native mahogany; and others, again, were distinguished from afar by the
+gorgeous blossoms of the coral-tree,[67] which dripped its blood-red
+petals on the altars below it. This beautiful tree is almost
+imperishable; but unluckily it shared in the fate of too many of those
+sacred temple trees, which were ruthlessly cut down by the early
+converts, in their iconoclastic zeal. Now the mournful casuarina (the
+_noko-noko_ of Fiji), with its dark hair-like drooping needles, is
+almost the only distinctive foliage which marks the resting-place of the
+dead.
+
+We lingered at this weird and horribly suggestive spot till the evening,
+and as we rode back to Haapiti, the crags and pinnacles towered in
+purple majesty against a background of luminous gold, and one divided
+ray from the setting sun threaded the eye of the great rock-needle.
+Later, when the moon had risen, we went to the village to see the native
+minister, who is going to Papeete to-morrow, and has agreed to give me a
+passage in his boat. We are to start early, so I must now have a sleep.
+Besides, the mosquitoes are troublesome, and the only refuge from them
+is beneath my nets. So good-night.
+
+                                               LA MAISON ROUGE, PAPEETE,
+                                                   _December 18th_.
+
+Once more I find myself “at home” beneath this hospitable roof. We
+started at daybreak and rowed leisurely along the lovely coast to
+Afareaitu (the place where I told you that Mr Ellis, the early
+missionary, established his first printing-press). At a short distance
+further we came to Nuupuru, where we landed to explore another great
+_marae_, likewise overgrown with casuarina and palm-trees. It stands on
+the coral-shore, which there, as in most parts of the isles, is shaded
+by dark trees with widespreading branches. Just behind this huge
+coral-altar, rises a gigantic rock-needle—a cyclopean natural monolith,
+such as might have accounted for the position of the altar, in lands
+where nature-worship prevailed, which, however, does not appear to have
+been the case in these isles.
+
+Here we left the friendly shelter of the reef and passed into the outer
+ocean. Happily a fair breeze favoured us, and we entered Papeete harbour
+soon after noon. Great was the amazement of my native friends as they
+realised the huge proportions of H.M.S. Shah, probably the largest ship
+ever seen in these waters. I believe she weighs about 7000 tons.
+Certainly she makes all the other vessels in harbour look like pigmies.
+The little Daring is only 700 tons; Le Limier, 1000; and my trusty old
+ship Le Seignelay, 2000. The Shah carries nearly 700 men and 50
+officers, so England is well represented. My boatman rowed right under
+her bows, the better to estimate her vast size.
+
+On landing, I found that Mrs Brander and all the family had moved back
+to town on account of the arrival of so important a vessel, which, of
+course, involves much work for the house of Brander. I had just time to
+feed, change my dress, and accompany my hostess to the palace to
+“assist” at the king’s state reception of Admiral De Horsey and his
+suite, which, of course, was as stiff as stiff could be. We had a
+pleasant evening, however, at the band. Lovely full moonlight.
+
+                                          THE RED HOUSE, _Friday, 21st_.
+
+Papeete is surpassing itself in its graceful hospitalities. On
+Wednesday, M. D’Oncieue had a very large reception _au Gouvernement_,
+and the French admiral’s band played “God save the Queen” as the British
+admiral entered. To you, doubtless, that conveys little, but to a
+stranger in a far land it means much. To me, who had not heard the grand
+old air since I left Australia, more than two years ago, it was most
+thrilling music, for you have no idea how patriotic we become when we
+reach the antipodes!
+
+The French and English bands played alternately the whole night, and as
+all the ships were (for once) well represented, and all the dancing
+world of Papeete present, in their happiest mood and prettiest toilets,
+it was a most successful ball, and well kept up. The lovely moonlight
+drew all the non-dancers to the gardens, much to the edification of the
+crowds assembled outside the railing. I found several pleasant
+acquaintances among the new-comers, and many more proved to be “friends’
+friends”—a title which in these far countries means more than you
+dwellers in overcrowded Britain can possibly be expected to understand,
+though you may perhaps realise the unwonted pleasure of meeting so many
+real English gentlemen.
+
+The evening was far too beautiful for carriages, so the revellers
+dispersed on foot, to walk home by bowery streets or peaceful shore.
+
+Yesterday Mrs Brander gave us a startling proof of her skill in
+organising, and of the resources at her command. At the governor’s ball
+it suddenly occurred to her to invite all present to a great native
+feast on the following day, at her country-home. At daybreak she started
+to commence preparations, on a scale which, in most hands, would have
+involved a week’s hard labour. Messengers were despatched in every
+direction to collect fowls, turkeys, sucking-pigs, vegetables, fruit,
+&c., &c. A party was told off to build a green bower in which to spread
+the feast. Glass, crockery, silver, and wines had to be brought from the
+Red House and the store; for the ordinary service required for even so
+large a party as habitually assemble at Fautawa would not go far among
+such a multitude as were invited to this impromptu gathering.
+
+Still the question was undecided how the guests were to amuse
+themselves, as feeding could not last all the evening. Happily Captain
+Bedford came ashore to see my portfolio, and I ventured to ask if the
+band might come to Fautawa—a favour which was cordially granted, and I
+was able to drive off to Fautawa as the bearer of this excellent news.
+In less than no time, the large drawing-room was cleared for dancing,
+the wide verandahs gaily decorated with Chinese lanterns, and an
+admirable ball-room was prepared. It was all like a transformation
+scene, and accomplished so quietly. It would not be so remarkable in a
+large European house, with a full complement of carefully drilled
+servants; but here there really are no servants, properly so called,
+only friendly “helps.” Certainly every one worked with a will on this
+occasion, and all was ready ere the arrival of the first carriage, full
+of middies.
+
+The carriages, like everything else, bore testimony to Mrs Brander’s
+thoughtful and generous care. She provided conveyance for every one,
+from the English admiral and French governor down to the smallest middy.
+Of course her own stable could not supply the demand, so every available
+trap was hired, and plied to and fro over the three miles, till all the
+guests were duly assembled. You will allow that this was a truly
+Tahitian phase of hospitality.
+
+So also was the kind forethought which provided towels and a new _pareo_
+for every guest who cared to bathe in the lovely river—an invitation
+which few, if any, refused; so that a succession of joyous parties soon
+found their way to all the best pools, and therein revelled.
+
+By the time the stragglers reassembled, a multitude of gay wreaths had
+been prepared by the Tahitian maidens, and all the guests were duly
+crowned. Some of the English officers were slightly taken aback by this
+unwonted decoration, but all submitted meekly; and we then marched in
+procession to the house of feasting, which was erected on the softest
+green turf, not far from the brook. It was a long building, consisting
+of a slight framework of bamboos, just sufficiently strong to support a
+thatch of plaited cocoa-palm leaves; while for pillars, strong young
+bananas were transplanted bodily, their broad cool leaves making a
+lovely canopy of freshest green. The golden leaves of the dracæna were
+strung together to form deep fringes and festoons along the rafters;
+while a still deeper fringe, carefully prepared from the fibre of
+hybiscus bark, and dyed pale yellow, was festooned all round the whole
+building. There must have been many hundred yards of this. Just think of
+the labour of preparing it! That, of course, had been done at leisure.
+
+In lieu of a table-cloth, fresh green banana-leaves were spread upon the
+grass down the centre of the building, and on these were laid all manner
+of good things, in dishes made of plaited leaves. Dainty little
+sucking-pigs, turkeys, and various preparations of chicken, were, as
+usual, the foundation of the feast. These had been brought in hot haste
+from Mrs Brander’s farm; while fish and all manner of crustacea seemed
+to have arrived by magic from the depths of the sea, the mountain
+streams, the mangrove-shore, and the coral-reef—each had sent its
+contribution. The delicious white _wurrali_, and their red relations,
+the cray-fish and lobsters, were there—shrimps and prawns, living and
+cooked, to suit all tastes. Raw fish and cooked fish, each with
+appropriate sauce; shell-fish of various sorts, including the delicate
+little oysters from the isthmus. Fruits of all sorts, mangoes and
+melons, strawberries, oranges, and bananas; yams, _taro_, and
+_kumala_—_i.e._, sweet potatoes—and sundry other vegetables.
+
+The obnoxious national drink of the South Seas, made from the chewed
+root of _kava_, _alias_ _yangona_, seems to have quite disappeared in
+Tahiti, and sweet young cocoa-nuts supplied the only native drink; but
+these were supplemented by many a brimming bumper of the best foreign
+wines, and champagne flowed like water. Thanks to the graceful
+unaffected courtesy with which Narii and Ariipaea Salmon, and several of
+the ladies of the family, themselves waited on all their guests, all
+went off admirably; every one was well cared for, and mirth and laughter
+reigned on all sides. Some of the naval guests, however, were not so
+well accustomed, as are all the rest of us, to sitting curled up on the
+fine mats, which were spread for the guests all round the leafy table;
+and so obviously uncomfortable were some of the senior officers, that
+the kind-hearted ladies took pity on their foreign friends, and brought
+piles of cushions and pillows, to raise them; but as they could not
+raise the tables also, I fear that some of the gentlemen must have voted
+dining _à l’indigène_ rather a serious effort.
+
+I should have mentioned that in “setting the table,” a pile of large
+bread-fruit leaves are laid before each person to act as plates, and to
+be changed as often as may be desired. Also, in lieu of tumblers,
+wine-glasses, and cruet-stands, each guest is provided with a half
+cocoa-nut shell, full of drinking water, and one of milk, a third with
+chopped cocoa-nut, and a fourth with salt water. The two latter are
+mixed together to make a sauce in which to dip the good things that are
+coming. This done, the fourth shell is filled with fresh water to act as
+a finger-glass. Half a bread-fruit, nicely cooked, is laid beside each
+place in lieu of bread. I fear, if I must confess the truth, that
+certain dainties in the way of creams and jellies, and tipsy-cakes, such
+as were not common in Tahiti in the days of Captain Cook, did find their
+way to our leafy bower, and were by no means despised.
+
+Afterwards the band took up a good position outside the house, and a
+right merry dance ensued. As the gentlemen considerably outnumbered the
+ladies, great satisfaction was expressed when two very ladylike white
+girls suddenly arrived, robed in loose white sacques, and of course
+crowned with flowers. These turned out to be two of the middies, who
+kept up their part admirably throughout the evening.
+
+The Shah musters a first-rate theatrical corps, and they say they would
+gladly act for the amusement of their Tahitian friends, but
+unfortunately their stay is too short to admit of any such ploy.
+
+We are all going to lunch on board to-day.
+
+                                                       _Friday Evening._
+
+We have had a very pleasant afternoon on the great ship. Soon after
+twelve we joined the royal party, for whom the admiral’s barge was
+waiting, the blue jackets receiving the king with uplifted oars. (I
+believe “tossed” is the correct expression.) He was treated throughout
+with full royal honours—twenty-one guns on arrival and departure, yards
+manned, marines and crew on parade, and all the officers in the agonies
+of full uniform, with which, however, they soon contrived to dispense. I
+think that as soon as Captain Bedford had got over his surprise at being
+asked by the queen where she might smoke, he realised that gold lace was
+superfluous! Tahitian ladies can never be happy for long without their
+cigarettes, and the queen has recently received a present of an enormous
+supply, which are fast disappearing in faint films of smoke!
+
+Our first introduction was to a large, very tame, black bear, which the
+sailors captured as a baby on Vancouver’s Isle, and which now plays with
+them like a very gentle big dog. It is a much nicer beast than the
+Russian bears brought by the Limier.
+
+We were formally conducted all over the huge ship, and duly wondered at
+the length of the lower deck, with the row of great guns on either side;
+in short, we felt exceedingly proud of our British representative, and
+the French officers and their Peruvian friends kindly abstained from
+invidious comments on the recent “Huascar” affair, which had been freely
+discussed here before the arrival of the giant Shah. Now all allusion to
+that pugnacious little vessel was studiously avoided, and everything
+connected with the big ship called forth a chorus of undivided
+admiration.
+
+King Ariiaue was requested to touch an electric battery, and quick as
+lightning a whole broadside went off. In like manner Queen Marau fired a
+torpedo, which threw up the water in a gigantic fountain. We went
+through the ward-room, the large airy gun-room, and the officers’
+daintily fitted-up cabins, exquisite in their neatness. The admiral has
+a most charming bedroom, drawing-room, and dining-room. In the latter we
+sat down to luncheon, about twenty-four persons, including the
+commanders of the other vessels.
+
+When we returned on deck we found it transformed into a brilliant
+ball-room, all draped with flags, and full of people from Papeete. As we
+looked down from the upper decks and bridge, a prettier scene could not
+be imagined. The dancing folk did dance to their hearts’ content; and
+those who, like myself, hold the Eastern creed, that all such hard work
+should be done by proxy, held possession of the higher levels, and
+sometimes varied the picture by turning to the beautiful panorama on
+every side of the harbour. To rest the band, there were two interludes,
+when the sailors danced hornpipes, and sang capital songs with choruses,
+which some of us enjoyed so much that we would fain have prolonged the
+concert. Unfortunately the king was tired of the proceedings, and wanted
+to hurry through the dances for which the queen had already engaged
+herself; so the singing was soon stopped, and the ball resumed till the
+sun had almost set behind Moorea, bathing its mountains in dreamy gold.
+A few minutes later the island stood out in clear-cut lilac, floating
+between a sea and sky of pale daffodil. Then we all returned ashore, and
+in the evening went to hear some _himènes_, specially got up for the
+edification of the strangers, who, however, by some unlucky
+misunderstanding, failed to appear. But as compared with those I had
+previously heard, these were very poor _himènes_, and I was almost glad
+that they were not taken as samples of what those charming glees can be.
+
+To-morrow morning the little Daring sails for Honolulu and the great
+Shah for Valparaiso. Every one regrets so speedy a departure, but the
+admiral says he dares not risk remaining with 700 Englishmen in this
+port, over Christmas Day, as it would be impossible to keep the men on
+board, with the tempting shore so close, and that if they once landed,
+some would inevitably get drunk, and have a row with the French
+authorities. Our good consul is evidently much relieved by this wise,
+though unpopular decision.
+
+It certainly is grievous that the jolly tars, of whom Britain is so
+justly proud, contrive to do such scant credit to their nation or
+themselves when they land in any foreign port. Here, for instance, day
+after day, among the crowds who land on the shore just under my
+verandah, I never hear a voice which seems to be raised in anger,—all
+seem bright and happy. I wish I could say the sounds are equally
+pleasant when a party of British sailors go past! _Then_ the echoes that
+linger on the ear are sanguinary and repulsive; a painful contrast to
+the musical speech of the natives.
+
+The Shah is fortunate in possessing, in the Rev. —— Reed, a chaplain who
+is exceedingly popular with all on board, and who takes an immense
+interest in all that concerns his flock. Besides the regular band, he
+has trained one specially to accompany sacred music; and the church
+choir is said to be excellent. It would have been really pleasant to
+have heard our own Church service on Christmas Day. By some fatality I
+have not had that privilege since leaving England; last Christmas Day
+having been spent in the hateful work of transhipping on our way from
+Fiji to New Zealand; and the previous one was spent in the mountains of
+great Fiji. It has been the same as regards Easter. We had to sail from
+Marseilles on Easter morning 1875. Easter of 1876 was spent in a little
+Fijian village in the isle of Koro, and Easter 1877 among the geysers of
+northern New Zealand. Where they may next find me, who can tell?
+
+I must close my letter that it may be sent on board the Daring at
+daybreak. The pretty Tahitian girls are working all to-night to finish
+arrowroot or bamboo fibre hats as parting gifts to the friends whom they
+will probably never meet again. “Telle est la vie!”—Good-night.
+
+                                                     YOUR LOVING SISTER.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XXIII.
+                      THE ATOLL GROUP OF TETIAROA.
+
+
+                                       FAUTAWA, TAHITI, _Christmas Day_.
+
+A glad Christmas to you all, dear people! Would that some good fairy
+could lend me a wishing-cap, that I might look in by turns on each home
+gathering in the various corners of England and Scotland. These marked
+anniversaries are always trying days, which awaken longings for the
+bodily presence of the dear kith and kin in the far country. But I
+confess I would rather that the said wishing-cap could bring all of you
+here, away from the bitter frosts and snows, to this paradise of sweet
+sunlight—and (selfish as it sounds when expressed in words) away from
+constant sight of the shivering ill-clad and half-starved people, whose
+deep-seated poverty you can in no wise alleviate,—to these isles, where
+want, at least, never appears prominently.
+
+The whole family party of brothers and sisters, mother, aunts, cousins,
+and feudal retainers, moved out here again immediately after the
+departure of the big ship, and we have resumed the pleasant existence of
+delicious early bathes, and long idle days beneath the green shade by
+the lovely river.
+
+I am sitting now in my favourite bower of dark hybiscus with
+lemon-coloured blossoms, which overarches the sparkling rivulet, as it
+branches from the main stream—an enchanting spot. I have just been
+reading the old Christmas service, which brings back many a vision of
+langsyne. There was a grand midnight Mass last night at the Catholic
+church, and of course service this morning, but none at the Protestant
+church, I believe.
+
+Now I must go in to breakfast, _alias_ luncheon, as a number of friends
+are expected. This evening one of the neighbours gives a large dance, to
+which, of course, we all go. Even non-dancers find such ploys attractive
+when they involve a pleasant evening drive in an open carriage, and no
+hot crowded rooms.
+
+                                                        _December 31st._
+
+I have had another small cruise in the Seignelay, which was ordered to
+the isles of Tetiaroa, distant about twenty-four miles, thence to bring
+back the king, who went there last week in an open boat.
+
+It was arranged that I should sleep at the Red House, and go on board
+with Queen Marau at daybreak. It proved to be rather a stormy morning,
+with a good deal of sea on: the sunrise colouring was very striking,—the
+mountains shrouded in heavy gloom, dark storm-clouds revealing the edge
+of their silvery lining, and a luminous prismatic halo playing all round
+the sun. Then the cloud-masses dispersed; dainty pink cloudlets floated
+on a sky which graduated from a pale-lemon hue to the colour of a
+thrush’s egg, so that the whole colouring suggested broken rainbow
+lights, changing incessantly for half an hour.
+
+Tetiaroa is a cluster of five low coral-isles, arranged in a circle,
+connected by coral-reef, thus almost forming an atoll. The isles are
+quite flat, nowhere rising more than four feet above the water. By
+nature barren, they have been artificially rendered fertile by the
+constant importation of vegetable mould from Tahiti; so now each isle is
+a dense grove of cocoa-palms, whose roots are washed by the salt spray.
+
+Tetiaroa is to Papeete as Brighton is to London, a favourite
+bathing-place, where the Tahitians betake themselves to recruit their
+languid energies by a course of strong brine, though Tahiti appears to
+me too healthy to require any sanatorium. It is, however, worthy of
+note, that statistics go to prove that, as a rule, all the low
+coral-formations are healthy, whereas the inhabitants of high volcanic
+isles are frequently subject to fever and ague.
+
+Though an imperfect atoll, this cluster was specially interesting to me,
+as a type of the eighty isles which form the Paumotus. Judging from this
+sample, I am satisfied that there is little to be seen from the deck of
+a ship. Could we ascend in a balloon, we should look down on a lagoon of
+shallow, very bright-green water, encircled by five palm-clad isles,
+connected by bands of rainbow-tinted reef,—say a garland of green roses
+and tricolour ribbon. Could our balloon float above the Paumotu group,
+eighty such garlands would be seen scattered on the deep-blue ocean,
+each encircled by an outer belt of submarine prismatic colour, edged
+with white breakers, marking where lies the barrier-reef.
+
+At Tetiaroa, the only opening in the reef is so narrow as barely to
+admit a canoe. We had, however, fully intended to land, but the surf was
+so rough that we had to give up the idea, much to my regret, especially
+as the day was devoted to heavy gun practice, which of course involves
+ear-splitting noise and smoke. However, I can stand fire pretty well, so
+took up a favourable position beside one of the cannons, and received
+instructions in artillery practice. But I confess I was not sorry when,
+after the fiftieth shot, the look-out man (who sat aloft like the sweet
+little cherub) announced the approach of the king, and presently we
+discerned a great crowd of natives wading across the reef, and dragging
+his canoe. Ship-boats put off to meet him; and though embarkation in
+such surf was no easy matter, it was safely accomplished, and a few
+minutes later the Seignelay received, not his majesty alone, but also a
+large number of pigs, and heaps of cocoa-nuts, presented to the lord of
+the isles, as parting gifts from loving subjects.
+
+It was late ere we landed at Papeete, so I again slept at the Red House,
+where one of the Seignelay boats called for me at daybreak, and landed
+me at the beautiful avenue of Fautawa, where I had a most enjoyable
+morning of quiet sketching, till Mrs Brander sent her pony-carriage to
+bring me home to the noonday breakfast.
+
+Now the young folk are preparing for a midnight frolic. They intend to
+have a very merry dance at a neighbour’s house; but as it is to be
+impromptu, and the hosts are not supposed to prepare any supper, each
+gentleman intends to carry a basket, ostensibly of fruit and flowers,
+beneath which lie concealed sundry bottles of champagne, wherewith to
+drink the New Year in. The girls are busy weaving garlands, that all may
+be flower-crowned to-night.
+
+Mrs Brander and her mother alone represent the more thoughtful element,
+and go to Papeete to attend a great native midnight service. I am too
+tired to do either, so can only say to you, as to the Old Year,
+“Good-night! Good-night!”
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XXIV.
+   NEW YEAR’S DAY IN TAHITI—ASCENT OF FAUTAWA VALLEY—OF PALM SALADS,
+  SCREW-PINES, AND BREAD-FRUIT—PACKING MANGO-STONES—RETURN OF GILBERT
+                 ISLANDERS—DEPARTURE OF THE SEIGNELAY.
+
+
+                                        FAUTAWA, _New Year’s Day, 1878_.
+
+The dancers of last night did not come home till 3.30, and at 7 A.M. the
+band of La Magicienne came here to serenade Mrs Brander, and played
+divinely. Many friends drove out to offer their New Year greetings, and
+so, as if by magic, the lawn was soon crowded with a joyous party, all
+the girls dressed in the prettiest, freshest of sacques, and their hair
+wreathed with bright flowers. What could they do but dance? The band,
+having pledged their hostess in her best champagne, played with a will
+for a couple of hours, when they were provided with a substantial
+breakfast, and then all the gentlemen drove off to another place
+belonging to Mrs Brander, there to preside at a great breakfast to all
+her _employés_.
+
+I drove into Papeete with pretty Pree, Manihinihi, and Naani, to call on
+Marau, Moë, and other friends; and so we began the New Year brightly and
+happily, in ideal, civilised-South-Sea fashion.
+
+                                                         _January 25th._
+
+Ever since I arrived here, we have been planning an expedition to the
+French fort at some distance up this valley, at a height of about 1600
+feet above the sea. So one beautiful morning last week, several friends
+from the Seignelay arrived here before sunrise, and Ariipaea Salmon
+undertook to be our guide. He had, unfortunately, hurt his foot, so he
+and I were privileged to ride, the others walking.
+
+For a considerable distance the path winds through a dense thicket of
+guavas, all self-sown, and considered by the people as great a curse as
+the (equally imported) _lantanna_ in Ceylon, both plants having a fatal
+facility for spreading and taking permanent possession of every
+neglected corner. They are the Chinamen of the vegetable world, and are
+quite as useful in their way. The guava forms the principal firewood of
+Tahiti. It bears an abundant crop of excellent fruit, which is now
+ripening just as the mango season is finishing; and I think the Tahitian
+guava is better than those of India and Ceylon. Certainly it has a far
+less sickly smell. Cattle and horses alike munch both fruit and leaves
+with avidity, so I cannot see why the guava should be so generally
+despised; but the fact remains, strange to say, no one here seems ever
+to think of making the delicious crimson jelly which we, in England,
+prize so highly. The fruit is left to drop from the trees utterly
+unheeded.
+
+Further up the valley the track becomes steep and narrow, and in places
+runs along the face of the cliff, with the rushing stream immediately
+below, and overhanging boughs festooned with vines growing so rankly as
+somewhat to endanger a rider. The beautiful large granadilla
+passion-flower here runs riot, but its fruit is now all finished. When
+ripe it resembles a good-sized pumpkin of a bright golden colour, and
+contains a multitude of seeds like those of a melon, each encased in
+white jelly. These lie inside a sweetish pulp about two inches thick,
+which is generally thrown away, but is nevertheless quite worth cooking
+as a vegetable.
+
+I found the drooping branches so troublesome, that I foolishly abandoned
+my horse very early, and had a much longer tramp than I counted on. We
+had not gone very far ere we quite lost the foot-track, and coming to a
+place where two ravines and two streams meet, Ariipaea, who had not been
+here for a long time, quite forgot which we were to follow; so first we
+tried the right side, and clambered up a steep and difficult path, till
+we were convinced that we were on the wrong track, and returning to the
+junction, we tried the other ravine, crossing and recrossing the stream.
+
+At length, after much loss of time and energy, we concluded that our
+best course was again to return to the junction and there breakfast,
+trusting that by good luck it might prove to be the day on which “Père
+Fautawa” (as the old soldier in charge of the fort is commonly called)
+would be returning from Papeete with his rations. Fortune favoured us;
+and ere we had finished the contents of our hamper (carried by French
+sailors) the old man appeared, and led the way by a middle path between
+the two streams. It was a very steep scramble, among great boulders and
+masses of rent crag, half hidden by the wealth of tree-ferns, young
+palms, wild bananas, and other tropical foliage, such as ginger,
+turmeric, wild caladium, and dracæna. The stems of the large trees are
+covered with parasitic ferns, especially the handsome bird’s-nest fern,
+which here grows luxuriantly.
+
+After crossing several small streams, we climbed to the verge of a deep
+ravine, at the head of which rises a precipitous cliff 600 feet high.
+Over this rushes a cataract of white foam, which fades into shadowy mist
+as it loses itself among the tall palms and feathery foliage of the
+tree-ferns and parasitic vines which veil its base. Above the fall is
+situated the French fortress.
+
+The interest of the place does not lie in the fort of the foreigners,
+but in the fact that this was the last stronghold of the Tahitians, in
+their struggle to retain their independence and resist the hated
+invaders. Here it was that the last man who fell in that brave strife
+was shot, betrayed by one of his countrymen, who now reaps the reward of
+his treachery in the enjoyment of foreign gold and the red ribbon of the
+Legion of Honour. This was the last blood shed. Now the red roses grow
+undisturbed on the ramparts, and the lines of defence are so many
+terraced gardens, where the solitary old soldier grows strawberries for
+sale in Papeete, whither he descends once or twice a week to draw his
+rations and to see the world.
+
+It is a lonely ending for the old man’s days, and a strange contrast to
+his former barrack-life. Now he is often for days together enveloped in
+mists, which enfold him in an isolated cloud-world. It is comparatively
+cold, too, at this high level, where at nights the thermometer sometimes
+falls below 60°. At Père Fautawa’s bidding we gathered ripe strawberries
+from his little garden, the first I had seen growing for many a day.[68]
+
+Then while the sailors busied themselves preparing coffee, we dispersed
+in search of pleasant pools for bathing, a luxury never more prized than
+after such a scramble in a tropical valley. Hitherto the day had been
+quite lovely, now it rapidly overcast, and heavy clouds came down and
+hid the Diadème—the beautiful crown-shaped mountain, that heads the
+valley. It is called by the natives Maiao, and though its height does
+not exceed 4363 feet, it is one of the most remarkable forms in Tahiti.
+
+Ere we had finished our welcome coffee it began to pour so heavily that
+I voted for camping where we were; but the others feared a freshet, such
+as might make the streams impassable for days. So they voted for
+starting instantly, and of course carried the day; and we descended the
+steep mountain-path in blinding rain, which blurred all beauty, and
+rushed in rivulets beneath our feet. We were so thoroughly saturated,
+that crossing and recrossing the stream ceased to give us a moment’s
+thought; and by the time we reached this house, I confess to having been
+thoroughly exhausted, as was to be expected, after a scramble of fully
+eight miles without any time to rest.
+
+Of course, as soon as we got back the weather cleared, and we had a most
+lovely evening, followed by an exquisite moonlight night, and a sunrise
+which, seen from Fautawa, would have been too fascinating. It was with
+sore regret that I gazed upward to the sunlit peaks; while for days
+afterwards I felt too utterly done to do more than creep about the
+garden.
+
+The upper heights of the valley are wellnigh inaccessible. They
+culminate in a crag-ridge about 4000 feet in height, forming a crest so
+narrow as to be a mere saddle barely three feet across—literally a
+gigantic crag-wall, wooded to the summit. Few are the bold spirits who
+have cared to scale this barrier in their endeavour to cross the island.
+Only by painful climbing from ledge to ledge, clinging to overhanging
+trees, trailing screw-pine, and sturdy vines, which act as natural
+ropes, is it possible to make any way. Indeed it is necessary to carry
+strong ropes in case of emergency; and little help can be expected from
+native guides, who never dream of expending toil so fruitlessly, unless
+worried into doing so by some unrestful foreigner. I am sure I do not
+wonder at their being satisfied with lower levels, seeing how enchanting
+these are. I find day after day gliding by in such peaceful enjoyment,
+that time passes unmarked, and the further expeditions, of which we have
+sometimes talked, seem to involve too great exertion. Evidently I am
+becoming indolent in these dreamy southern isles!
+
+                                                         _January 30th._
+
+I have just been feasting on a cocoa-palm salad, which would make the
+fortune of the happy _chef_ who could introduce it at an alderman’s
+feast. That, fortunately for the plantations, is quite out of his power,
+unless some process be discovered by which to preserve uncooked
+vegetables. For this dainty consists of the embryo primary shoot of the
+tree—the unborn fronds, which lie curled up within in a close compact
+white mass, about the size of a man’s arm, and resembling a gigantic
+stick of celery, with a flavour of filberts. Of course so costly a dish
+as this (which sacrifices the life of the tree) is rarely indulged in,
+save when a hurricane has snapped the crown of the tall palm, or when
+some rich chief wishes to entertain a guest, regardless of expense.
+
+Another very agreeable product of the cocoa-palm, which you in England
+can never hope to taste, is an over-ripe nut, when in the very act of
+sprouting. Previous to this, a very curious change has occurred. As you
+must know, the germ of the plant lies just within the three little eyes,
+which we used in nursery days to call the monkey’s face. Indeed I fear
+that in those days of our ignorance we imagined they were the marks left
+by the stalk, quite forgetting that the nut lies in a large outer case
+of that brown fibre which, in these our later days, we know as “coir.”
+Well, the sharp end of the nut lies next the stalk, and the monkey-face
+at the further end, so _that_ nursery theory was fallacious, like some
+others.
+
+When the nut is fully ripe, a fibrous, spongy substance begins to form
+all round the germ, and this gradually extends, absorbing both the
+so-called milk and the hard kernel, till the whole shell is full of a
+soft, sweet, white growth, like a very light _blanc-mange_. If at this
+stage the nut escapes the _gourmet_ of the South Seas, the young germ
+will soon force open one of the three eyes, and, working its way through
+the fibrous husk, begin its heavenward growth; while from the other two
+eyes will sprout two rootlets, which instinctively turn downwards, and
+likewise penetrating the thick protecting outer case, find their way to
+mother earth, and there strike root. Still the white sponge within the
+nut goes on expanding, till at length it splits the hard wooden shell,
+and then gradually decays, and so forms a light nourishing soil, which
+acts as mother’s milk to the baby tree in its delicate early days. After
+a while it needs no such provision, but flourishes, in grace and beauty,
+where other trees would starve.
+
+I wonder that no one has ever discovered in the cocoa-palm a meet emblem
+of charity. Of all plants that grow, none asks so little, or gives so
+largely. It matters not how dry and barren is the shallow soil, or how
+briny the coral-sand, washed by every rising tide, the hardy palm
+strikes its roots among the fragments of coral, and, bending to the
+gale, weathers the wild storms, and yields its generous increase as
+abundantly as its more fortunate brethren in the rich soil of sheltered,
+well-watered valleys. The poorest islander on the loneliest atoll,
+possessed of a few cocoa-palms, can exist. They give him food and drink,
+a fibrous material, all ready woven, like coarse canvas, for dress;
+leaves for thatch, and oil for light, and for personal adornment and
+comfort. To obtain the latter, he collects a lot of old nuts, such as
+those we see for sale in England, and scraping out the kernel into some
+old canoe, leaves the whole mass for some days exposed to the sun, till
+the pure oil exudes, and without further trouble he stores it in any
+vessels he may possess—gourds or bamboos. Of course, a European who
+trades in palm-oil prefers to collect it in the form of _coppra_—_i.e._,
+dried cocoa-nut—as a much larger amount of oil is obtained by pressure
+of machinery.
+
+Another hardy child of these coral-isles is the pandanus, or screw-pine,
+as it is commonly called, because its leaves, which grow in tufts at the
+tips of the branches, are all set like a screw, twisting round the stem,
+which is thus marked with a spiral pattern from the root upward. Like
+the cocoa-palm, it grows in the clean dry coral-sand, where there is
+apparently no moisture; yet when cut it is found to be full of oily sap.
+The wood is close and hard, and though rarely exceeding five or six
+inches in diameter, it often grows perfectly upright, for fifteen or
+twenty feet, and yields excellent posts for building; they are, however,
+hollow like a bamboo. The long drooping leaves are valuable for thatch,
+being from three to five feet in length, and about three inches wide.
+They are edged with sharp prickles, but, when torn into strips, are
+useful for plaiting mats and canoe-sails.
+
+The women steep the leaves in sea-water, and then beat them with a
+mallet till all the green skin comes off, leaving a beautifully white
+silky fibre, which they dye red, yellow, and brown, and then plait into
+wonderfully fine sashes, about a foot wide. It has been suggested that
+this pure white fibre would prove a valuable material for paper-making,
+but I have not heard of its being tried. A stronger fibre is obtained by
+crushing the aerial roots, which this strange tree throws out in all
+directions, forming stays by which it protects itself against the
+violent gales,—a necessary precaution, where the main root grows only in
+the sand.
+
+The flower of the pandanus is exceedingly fragrant; but though I have
+seen thousands of screw-pines, I have rarely had the luck to find one in
+blossom. Its fruit resembles a coarse pine-apple. When ripe it becomes
+bright scarlet, and the Samoans use it for making necklaces. It is
+divided into honeycomb sections. When the fruit is ripe these fall
+apart, each being a separate conical lump, of which the inner end is
+soft and saccharine, and can be chewed like sugar-cane.
+
+When the capsules are thoroughly dried, they can be cracked, and yield a
+kernel, which is edible; and in the barren isles, near the equator, this
+fruit is considered a valuable product. It is dried and grated, and the
+sweet brown sawdust thus obtained is stored as the only substitute for
+flour; and cakes of it are baked, as occasion may require, to eke out a
+fish diet, which is not always forthcoming. It is said to be wholesome,
+nourishing food; but in these more luxuriant southern isles I have never
+seen it eaten by the natives, only by the foreign labour—_i.e._, the men
+imported from the groups to the north-east, who are engaged to work on
+the plantations. In their own isles they have discovered a means of
+steaming and mashing the fruit which, when fermented, yields a strong
+and highly intoxicating spirit. The whalers who years ago settled among
+them, taught them to improve on this liquor by distillation, and also
+instructed them how to obtain a fiery spirit from the innocent
+palm-trees. So, thanks to their tuition, and generally civilising
+influence, the Line islanders have become infinitely more debased than
+they previously were.
+
+It does seem too bad, does it not, to extract poison from these useful
+trees? But whether it be orange-rum in Tahiti, or barley-bree in the
+isles nearer home, I suppose the white race will find means to procure
+fire-water wherever it goes, and seems to turn every sort of plant to
+the same use. What with rum from the sugar-cane, and fiery spirit from
+the sweet dracæna root, and even from innocent bananas, it appears as if
+every good gift of heaven was liable to be misused in like manner.
+
+I hear some people say that they weary of the monotony of the
+cocoa-palms; and certainly a low coral-shore, with an unbroken line of
+palm-trees, is somewhat dull. Here, however, there is an amazing variety
+in the foliage of the seaboard. Besides the many beautiful large-leaved
+shrubs, there are various handsome trees, which attain a great size,
+and, as I described to you, many grow so close to the shore that their
+boughs literally dip into the sea. Some of these are fruit-bearing. The
+_vi_ bears bunches of large yellow plums, and the _ahia_[69] yields a
+lovely pink fruit, with white juicy flesh.
+
+But of all the indigenous trees none can compare for beauty and value to
+the bread-fruit, which, though it demands a richer soil in the first
+instance, rivals the cocoa-palm in its manifold uses. Though it does not
+give drink to the thirsty, or coir for ropes and matting, its resin
+forms a strong glue which is useful in caulking the boats, and the bark
+of the young branches yields a fibre from which strong cloth is made.
+Its timber is exceedingly valuable; and its thick glossy leaves, which
+are sometimes eighteen inches in length by about twelve in breadth, are
+also turned to good account.
+
+But of course it is chiefly prized for its abundant food-supply. Each
+tree yields three, sometimes four, crops annually; and as there are in
+these isles about fifty recognised varieties, which ripen at different
+seasons, it follows that, with a little care in cultivation, the supply
+might very easily be so regulated as never to fail. A large bread-fruit
+tree in full bearing is certainly a most beautiful object, with its
+wealth of green or yellow fruit hanging from beneath the handsome deeply
+indented leaves. A good tree will bear several hundred fruits—each about
+eight inches long by six wide,—with a rough green rind, divided into a
+lozenge-shaped pattern. This is sometimes peeled off before the white
+pulp is cooked; but I infinitely prefer the bread-fruit roasted whole on
+the embers or baked in the earth in a native oven, when the blackened
+rind is scraped off, and the inside is found thoroughly cooked, and in
+taste something like the thick scones known in the colonies as
+“dampers,” or like the cold “chupatties” we used to eat on the march in
+the Himalayas—floury but rather tough. I don’t think that these natural
+loaves are to be compared to a good potato. However, they are the bread
+of the favoured tropics; and nowhere else does mother nature yield so
+much wholesome food for so little human toil.
+
+You need not, however, imagine that these good things are common
+property, to be gathered and cooked by every hungry man. On the
+contrary, every cocoa-palm and fruit-bearing tree on these or any other
+isles that I know of, has its owner, and is very likely the sole wealth
+of a whole family. So each fruit commands as regular a market-value in
+the South Sea Isles, as do the apples and potatoes of the English
+farmers. This is a simple fact, apparently not always recognised by
+visitors and others, who occasionally write to request their friends
+living here to send them cases of oranges and other fruits, as if they
+supposed that these were to be had for the mere trouble of gathering and
+packing!
+
+Speaking of gathering and packing, I have for some time past been
+devoting a considerable amount of energy to collecting mango-stones, or
+rather kernels, with a view to sending them to Fiji. It is only about
+eighteen years since the mango-tree was introduced to these isles from
+Rio Janeiro, and so wonderful is the rapidity with which it has spread,
+that it now holds its place as the most marked feature in the vegetation
+of this group. Every homestead is embowered in these and other
+fruit-bearing trees, and for the last two months every man, woman, and
+child (to say nothing of quadrupeds) seems to be for ever eating ripe,
+delicious, golden mangoes; and every road, indeed the ground in every
+direction, is strewn with _les noyaux_; though the people so fully
+appreciate the luxury of a feast by the river-side, where they may enjoy
+the juicy dainties without the smallest respect for conventional
+appearances, that an immense number of the finest kernels are thrown
+into the water—indeed, since I have been so anxious to collect good
+sorts, I observe with annoyance that though I entreat these careless
+easy-going people (_le peuple_) to throw the best stones in some corner
+for me, they seem by preference (or probably by force of habit) always
+to chuck them into the water.
+
+The French have taken immense trouble in perfecting this valuable fruit,
+and have now introduced so many excellent varieties that one crop
+succeeds another in rotation. The round mango is succeeded by the golden
+egg, and that by a small purple, while the large long sort seems
+inexhaustible. Best of all are those specially cultivated by Monseigneur
+Janssen, Bishop of Axièri, who has raised a super-excellent mango with a
+very large fruit, and a long stone so thin and flat as to resemble the
+inner sole of a child’s shoe.
+
+The bishop has also been inspired with the happy thought of distributing
+mango-stones in other groups, and sent off a large consignment last
+month by a vessel going direct to New Caledonia. He is most kind in
+helping me to collect a good assortment for Fiji: at the same time, he
+warns me that taking the best seed is no sure warrant for getting
+equally good plants, as no other tree exists, so faithless in
+reproducing its own kind, and variety of soil produces every conceivable
+variety of tree. You may take twin fruits from one tree, and plant them
+a few yards to right and left of the parent tree. One will grow up
+infinitely superior to its mother—the other will be all stone and fibre,
+and scarcely fit for the pigs. The only certainty lies in taking grafts
+of the good ones, and so utilising the stock; also in planting, the
+richest soil must be selected, as the tree has a long tap-root and
+strikes deep.
+
+Now there is abundance of rich soil in Fiji, and the ordinary vegetation
+is identical with that of Tahiti; so there can be no reason why the
+mango should not be acclimatised there as well as here, and it would be
+a very great satisfaction to me to aid in bestowing so great a boon on
+the young colony. I am sure I deserve that the attempt should succeed,
+for it has already cost me an immense amount of trouble. In spite of all
+precautions, of careful drying and turning, &c., a very large number of
+the stones I collected in the early part of the season have already
+sprouted. Some are quite respectable young trees.
+
+So now I am making a more systematic attempt, and have devoted several
+days to driving to all the very finest gardens in the neighbourhood,
+where, with the help of a pretty Tahitian boy (who rather enjoyed such a
+chance of an unlimited feed), I set to work to collect the half-decayed
+fruit, which lay rotting under all the best trees. I can tell you that
+cleaning the stones was about the hottest, dirtiest, and most fatiguing
+work I have done for many a day. However, notwithstanding the heat, I
+stuck to it for six hours one day and three the next, and two hours on
+several other days. And the result is a splendid lot of _noyaux_, which
+every morning I turn and re-turn, in order to dry them thoroughly,
+hoping to prevent their sprouting like the first lot. But in spite of
+all my precautions, the large flat seeds of the finest mango have
+already done so—so they, at least, can only be propagated by graffs.
+Another difficulty is, that hitherto all my efforts to send plants from
+Fiji to England by Wardian cases of island manufacture have proved
+abortive. In every case the plants have died, so I do not feel much
+encouraged to try the experiment again.
+
+The great difficulty lies in the length of time that must elapse ere
+either plants or stones can reach Fiji; as, of course, such a chance as
+that of the vessel which brought me thence, direct to this group, is of
+very rare occurrence. The probability is, that the seeds which I am now
+collecting will have to wait for an opportunity of being sent by sailing
+vessel 2000 miles north to Honolulu; there to be transhipped to a
+Pacific mail-steamer, and be carried south-west 4000 miles to Sydney;
+where they would find another steamer to take them the 1700 miles to
+Levuka, whence they will find their way by sundry small sailing-boats to
+the various Fijian isles. A somewhat circuitous route, you must allow!
+
+                                                          _February 3d._
+
+After all, I have found a somewhat more direct route by which to send
+some of my mango-stones. Le Limier was despatched to-day on special
+service to the Gilbert Isles, thence to proceed to New Caledonia, and
+her very obliging captain, Commandant Puèch, offered to carry a large
+case to the care of the British Consul (Mr Layard), who will forward it
+to Sir Arthur Gordon by the first opportunity. So I set to work to pack
+4000 carefully selected stones, laying them side by side as neatly as
+though building a wall with children’s little bricks. It took me a whole
+day’s work, and, considering that each seed has passed through my hands
+six or eight times, while collecting, cleaning, scraping, drying,
+turning, selecting, and finally packing, you will not wonder that I
+looked after the departing case with a feeling of quite maternal
+interest.[70]
+
+The mission on which Le Limier is now bound is to take back 200 of the
+Arawais, inhabitants of the Gilbert Islands, who were brought here as
+foreign labourers about nine years ago, on the understanding that they
+would very soon be sent home again, whereas they have been detained all
+these years. When Admiral Serres commenced critical inquiries on the
+various abuses at which previous governors had winked, this fact became
+known, and he decided that the labourers should be sent back soon after
+the New Year—an announcement which filled their masters with dismay, in
+view of ungathered crops, but was hailed by the Arawais with joy till
+they learnt by what vessel they were to travel. Then they were filled
+with alarm, believing that so large a ship would not dare to risk the
+dangerous navigation between their little isles; and that they would
+probably all be landed (as has often been done in similar cases) on one
+or two of the principal isles, where they would be left quite as much in
+a strange land as in Tahiti, and, moreover, with the certainty of being
+robbed, and the probability of being eaten by hostile tribes. So a
+considerable number have refused to go on this occasion. Indeed M. Puèch
+is himself much perturbed as to how to accomplish this really difficult
+business.
+
+He invited a few friends, including myself, to go on board at the last
+moment, to _faire les adieux_. The vessel presented a curious
+scene—picturesque, certainly, with abundance of bright colour, but more
+like an emigrant ship than a man-of-war. Le Limier is so constructed
+that she has not sufficient accommodation to allow of all the crew
+sleeping below at one time. So these wretched Arawais, including women
+and children, are taken only as deck passengers; and as the cruise,
+under steam, cannot take less than from sixteen to eighteen days, during
+which they must take their chance of whatever weather they may
+encounter, you can understand that the voyage does not promise to be a
+pleasure-trip.
+
+The vessel carries much extra coal, to provide against the danger of a
+calm. So half her deck is loaded with this dirty store, and the 200
+Gilbert Islanders are huddled together on the main-deck. Each labourer
+has a trade box, containing a few clothes, a good deal of tobacco, and
+some cheap toys for children; and this is _all_ they carry home as the
+fruit of their long exile. Nine years of ceaseless toil in a far
+country, repaid by a little wooden box full of cheap rubbish!
+
+While we were on board, a little baby died on deck in its mother’s arms.
+Some fellow-countrymen, who had come to see their friends start,
+undertook to carry the poor little body ashore for burial. The father
+opened his box of trade, and took out a few yards of coarse printed
+calico, which he gave to the said friends, apparently as payment for
+their trouble. The poor mother fell on her face at the gangway, wailing
+piteously. She appeared utterly miserable. It was a sad beginning for a
+voyage, and we all doubly regretted the departure of our friends with
+such an unpleasant three weeks in prospect.
+
+When I saw how terribly overcrowded the vessel was, I thought Captain
+Puèch must surely repent of his kindness in offering to carry the big
+case of mango-stones; but on the contrary, he made it appear as though I
+had done him quite a favour in letting him take charge of the precious
+seeds, which, we trust, will hereafter become so valuable a boon to
+Fiji. Kind, good friend, we all wished him _bon voyage_ with all our
+hearts; then returning to the shore we watched the good ship sail, amid
+hearty cheers from Le Seignelay, and with large bouquets on each mast,
+to mark that she is homeward-bound.
+
+                                             THE RED HOUSE, PAPEETE,
+                                                 _Friday, February 8th_.
+
+The Ségond, French man-of-war, has just arrived from San Francisco,
+bringing the new French governor—a fine jovial naval officer—with an
+A.D.C. who, like his chief, is well known in Tahiti for his strong
+liking for natives and native customs.
+
+So while the appointment has caused great delight to one section of the
+community, others foresee a speedy relapse from the high-pressure
+morality, and various reforms which, under the good admiral’s _régime_,
+made Papeete so strictly respectable that its own inhabitants said the
+like had never been seen under any previous rule. But everything changes
+with the admiral and governor of the day, and every one here declares
+that the ships in harbour during the last few months have been of such
+exceptionally good type that the result has been a model era, probably
+too perfect to last.
+
+To-morrow Le Seignelay is to sail for Valparaiso to restore M.
+D’Oncieue, M. Fayzeau, and the band, to La Magicienne. So to-day Mrs
+Brander gave a farewell breakfast at Fautawa to as many as could come,
+after which we all adjourned here, as being more convenient for a great
+reception at Government House to-night, when the good band will play for
+the last time. Henceforth Papeete must be content with the feebler
+efforts of a band recruited from her own citizens, but as yet not up to
+the mark.
+
+                                               _Saturday, February 9th._
+
+Le Seignelay sailed this morning, and with most true regret I bade adieu
+to the pleasant companions of the last five months. With unchanging
+kindness they again offered me the hospitality of the ship, and placed a
+cabin at my disposal in case I cared to visit Valparaiso; but I do not
+feel tempted by that unpicturesque coast, and its very gay and
+gorgeously apparelled Spanish-German society. In a very few days the
+Maramma must return from the Sandwich Isles with her cargo of cattle,
+and then I hope to start for the volcanoes.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXV.
+        HURRICANE AT THE PAUMOTUS—MAHENA PLANTATION—WATCHING FOR
+                      VESSELS—FAREWELL TO TAHITI.
+
+
+                                               FAUTAWA, _Tuesday, 12th_.
+
+News has just reached us of an awful hurricane and tidal wave which has
+swept the whole group of the Paumotus, and it is not known how far its
+influence has extended. Nothing of the sort has occurred in these seas
+in the present century. The French Resident and Mr Boosey, one of Mrs
+Brander’s agents, have just arrived in the Elgin to ask for assistance,
+as the whole settlement of Anaa is a heap of hopeless ruin. It was a
+flourishing little town, about half the size of Levuka; it had about 150
+houses, good stores, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Mormon churches,
+Resident’s house, &c. The Seignelay touched there on that memorable
+cruise to the Marquesas, so I missed the chance of doing a historical,
+antediluvian sketch.
+
+Mrs Brander is most anxious about the fate of her other manager, Mr
+Macgee; indeed we all are so, for he is a very good fellow, and he has
+been staying with the family here for some time. He is supposed to have
+been out that night in a very small vessel, which is missing. The gale
+must have been appalling. It is calculated that on Anaa alone, 300,000
+cocoa-palms must have fallen, and Mrs Brander’s loss in produce, stores
+and buildings, boats, three small ships and their cargoes, is reckoned
+at 40,000 dollars, equal to about £10,000—a serious night’s work.
+
+The Ségond is to be despatched to-morrow morning, loaded with
+provisions, timber, and all things likely to prove useful in this
+emergency. She is to go the round of every large isle in the group, and
+do what she can to help the wretched inhabitants.
+
+They say these tidal waves always accompany an eruption of some volcano.
+I hope I shall not find that I have just missed one at Hawaii!
+
+                                         MAHENA PLANTATION, POINT VENUS,
+                                             _Thursday, Feb. 14th_.
+
+This is another place belonging to Mrs Brander, who sent me here with
+her manager, Mr Lander, a German, that I might have a few quiet days for
+sketching in this neighbourhood. There is a large house here, close to
+the sea, where the family occasionally come for a change. I was received
+by Toetoe, a handsome, stalwart lass, daughter of a chief of Tupuai, the
+romantic isle of which Byron sings in “The Island.” She introduced me to
+pets of all sorts—rabbits, cows, horses, cats and dogs, especially a wee
+brown dog “Moosie.” She gave me milk without limit—always a luxury—and
+in the evening we wandered by grassy paths beneath the cocoa-palms; and
+then in the clear moonlight started for a walk along the shore, which
+here is of a firm black sand, on which large waves break in as full
+force as on our own north coast. This is due to the fact that there is a
+passage through the coral-reef, just opposite the house; so the sea
+rolls in unchecked.
+
+                                                         _Monday, 18th._
+
+I have been rather worried for some days by prickly-heat, from which
+many persons suffer almost continually in all tropical countries. It is
+a general all-overish, tingling irritation of skin, very unpleasant to
+the sufferer, who, however, receives no compassion, as he is pleasantly
+informed that it is a symptom of excellent health, and a safeguard
+against possible fever! Sea-bathing is generally recommended as a cure,
+so that sunrise and moonlight alike find me in pickle in the briny
+waters, where, borrowing courage from Toetoe’s presence and good example
+(she being, as a matter of course, a perfect swimmer), I venture on a
+dash through the breaking waves to the pleasant calm water beyond;
+where, however, our peaceful enjoyment is considerably marred by the
+dread of sharks, which here venture close to the shore.
+
+We have made various expeditions, walking and driving, to picturesque
+points on land and shore; and a day at the lighthouse enabled me to
+complete my previous sketch of Orofena, the highest mountain of Tahiti.
+
+Now we are just starting to drive back along the coast to Papeete—a
+lovely route, by which, as you may remember, I last travelled by
+torchlight, on our return from the grand circuit of the isle.
+
+                                               PAPEETE, _February 19th_.
+
+We have for some time been anxiously watching for the return of the
+Maramma, Mrs Brander’s fine large ship, which is bringing cattle from
+the Sandwich Isles, and which will, I hope, take me there on her next
+trip, supposing no mischance has befallen her. But she is now
+considerably overdue, and fears are expressed that she may have
+disobeyed orders, and gone to the dangerous coast of Kauai, thence to
+fetch cattle. Or she may have encountered the hurricane.
+
+                                                        _February 20th._
+
+A vessel has just come into port from Honolulu, bringing cattle. She has
+been nineteen days on the voyage, and reports that the Maramma is
+following.
+
+In the evening the lovely moonlight tempted us to visit our old haunts,
+the place where the admiral’s band used to play every evening, but
+where, under the new _régime_, the hideous _upa-upa_ is now nightly
+danced for the edification of the admiring crowd. There was the usual
+large picturesque assemblage, but their gaiety was of a more
+demonstrative type than heretofore. In short, the admiral’s excellent
+restrictions, which were to inaugurate quite a new era in Tahiti, have
+already melted “like snowdrift in thaw” before the cheerful presence of
+the new ruler; who, on the very night of M. D’Oncieue’s departure,
+summoned many damsels (friends of former days, and noted dancers of the
+obnoxious native wriggle) to Government House, where they were
+hospitably entertained. Of course news of this complete subversion of
+six months’ compulsory reformation quickly spread to the remotest
+districts, and from all parts of the island all the dancers flocked to
+Papeete, where they now assemble every evening before Government House,
+and the crowd thus attracted is of a sort such as ladies would not care
+to mix in for long. To-night there was some rather pretty singing, but
+not to be compared with the true _himènes_—and from the laughter of the
+crowd it might be inferred that the words would not bear translation.
+
+                                                          _Friday, 22d._
+
+The Ségond has returned from the Paumotus with a lamentable tale of
+disaster. We are all, however, much relieved at hearing that our friend
+Mr Macgee is safe; though he had a most narrow escape on the awful night
+of the hurricane, when he happened to be on the isle of Kaukura, which
+seems to have been the centre of the cyclone, and consequently suffered
+most. He had passed this island a few days previously in the Marion, but
+the sea had been too heavy to allow of so large a vessel venturing to
+approach. Business compelling him to return, he did so in the May, a
+smaller craft. Both vessels belong to Mrs Brander, and are named after
+her daughters.
+
+Like the generality of the Paumotus, Kaukura consists of a circular
+group of low flat islets, either detached or connected by a reef, thus
+forming an atoll enclosing a calm sea-lagoon; the whole being protected
+from the outer ocean by an encircling reef. An existence more calm and
+peaceful than that of the dwellers in these coral-girt isles can
+scarcely be conceived; and a storm such as that which has devastated the
+group, is of such rare occurrence as to be little dreaded in the chances
+of daily life. Eighty years are said to have elapsed since the last
+hurricane occurred in these latitudes. Considering that many of these
+islets are not three feet above the water-level,—that ten feet is
+considered high ground, and fifteen is about the maximum elevation,—you
+can understand how appalling is the danger caused by any eccentricity of
+tide.
+
+As cocoa-nuts are the chief produce of the group, and indeed the sole
+property of many families, it is customary to protect the interests of
+each member of the community from all danger of poaching on the part of
+his neighbour, by laying a _taboo_ on the whole crop until a given day.
+I suppose I need scarcely tell you what is meant by this ceremony,
+which, under slightly varied names (_tabu_ in New Zealand, _tambu_ in
+Fiji, _tapu_ in Samoa, and _kapu_ in Hawaii), is common throughout the
+Pacific, and implies that something has been reserved or rendered sacred
+by order of the chief. In olden days the multitudinous forms of _taboo_
+were to all these islanders a heavy burden, weighing grievously upon
+them in every phase of life; and the infringement of the most arbitrary
+rule thus imposed was generally punished by death. Even now a formerly
+declared _taboo_ carries such weight, and appeals so forcibly to the
+superstitions of the people, that it is almost invariably respected.
+
+Thus in the matter of the cocoa-nut crop not a nut from the reserved
+plantations can be touched, till, on the removal of the prohibition, all
+the proprietors and their families, together with all interested in the
+purchase of the nuts, or in securing payment of debts previously
+contracted, assemble at the _Rahui_, as it is called, and there build
+for themselves frail booths of palm-leaves—a sorry shelter at the best.
+
+In such a leaf-village, on one of the detached islets, all the
+inhabitants of Kaukura had assembled, together with a number of traders
+from other places, in all numbering nearly 200 persons, when they were
+overtaken by the awful hurricane of the 6th February. For some hours
+previously the greatest anxiety had prevailed. A strong easterly breeze
+had for three consecutive days lashed the waters of the lagoon into
+fury, then gradually veered round to the west with ever increasing
+force. The outer ocean, now rising in tumultuous waves, swept in from
+the westward; and, sweeping right over the barrier-reef with a roar like
+thunder, broke on the shore with a force unequalled in the memory of any
+islander now living. Thus the usually calm lagoon within the coral ring,
+and the annular lagoon on its outer edge, were alike lashed to
+tempestuous billows, dashing with awful force on either side of the low
+islet; while the water from below was actually forced up through the
+coral foundation, till the light sandy soil was so thoroughly saturated
+as to have become a mere quicksand.
+
+With danger alike imminent on land and sea, it was a difficult question
+which to face. The ground was apparently about to be wholly submerged,
+and the alarm was such that 118 persons, including one European (George
+Herder, agent for a large German mercantile house), decided to take
+refuge in their boats. All these, with the exception of one man, a
+native of Anaa, perished.
+
+The others, including Mr Macgee and a few other Europeans, fled to the
+highest part of the land, which was about fifteen feet above the
+ordinary water-level. The ground is there strewn with large rocks and
+stumps of palm-trees. To these they clung all through the long dreary
+night, while the waves from both lake and sea met and dashed right over
+them in cataracts of foam.
+
+Throughout the long hours of darkness they battled with the raging
+waters. Again and again they were dashed from the rocks or stumps to
+which they clung, and endured a moment of bewildering horror, while
+carried at the mercy of the swirling waters, till happily some other
+object presented itself at which to clutch. Further, they were in
+imminent danger from sharks, which, as they well knew, might attack them
+at any moment,—a consciousness which formed a horrible item in that
+night of dread. Mingling with the roar of the waters and the shrieking
+of the hurricane, came the crash of falling palms, uprooted, twisted, or
+snapped by the fury of the gale.
+
+When morning broke, the tempest abated; the waters receded to their
+accustomed bounds, leaving the island a complete wreck, and its shores
+strewn with the bodies of the dead.
+
+After a few days, a boat arrived in search of Mr Macgee, despatched from
+the island of Apataki, where he had left the Marion. He found her high
+and dry on the beach, but otherwise not seriously injured. Of the little
+May he had himself caught a last glimpse as a huge wave lifted her up
+and carried her right over the wharf, to disappear in the turmoil of
+seething waters beyond. Many other small craft have been wrecked.
+Amongst others the Hornet, a 42-ton schooner; the Nerine, 28-ton; and a
+great number of boats, which were washed out of the lagoon and carried
+out to sea.
+
+The isles of Niau, Anaa, and Rangiroa, _i.e._, long cloud, seem to have
+suffered the most severely. On the latter almost every house has been
+destroyed, one hideous detail being that the cemeteries have literally
+been washed away, and the bodies, bones, and skulls lie strewn over the
+isle, mingled with the corpses of the drowned, to the gratification of
+such hungry pigs as have survived the deluge, and who quickly scented
+out the loathsome festival. Among the bodies which shared this horrible
+fate, was recognised that of a chief, who had been buried a few days
+previously.
+
+Nor was this the only isle where the sea disturbed the resting-places of
+the dead. Mr Boosey told me that on his returning to the miserable wreck
+of what had been his home at Anaa, he therein found two skulls, which
+the waves had sportively deposited as grim ornaments for his
+dining-room. Anaa was the principal settlement in the Paumotu group. The
+storm did not actually break there till the 7th February, though for
+some hours previously the barometer had been falling steadily, marking a
+descent from 30.10 on the morning of the 6th to 29.24 on the afternoon
+of the 7th.
+
+This so alarmed Mr Boosey that he proceeded to move some of his goods to
+a large native house built on the highest point of the island, which,
+however, did not exceed twenty-five feet above the sea-level. His
+neighbours, like those of Noah of old, somewhat derided his precautions;
+but even he had saved comparatively little, when the sea came pouring in
+over the reef in mighty waves, which swept all before them, almost
+entirely covering the island. When, on the morning of the 8th, the
+waters receded, a mass of broken timbers and rubbish alone remained to
+mark where, but a few short hours previously, had stood about 150
+buildings of one sort or another. All the boats were destroyed, and the
+whole land strewn with fallen palms, lying tossed about at every
+conceivable angle. The destruction of cocoa-palms throughout the group
+is reckoned at two millions; and as these are the chief wealth, indeed
+the principal means of subsistence, of the people, and as it takes about
+eight years for a young palm to attain maturity, you can in a measure
+realise the loss thus represented, and the time that must elapse ere the
+poor Paumotus recover from the effects of this terrible storm. The
+Ségond reports that the sea for many miles around the group is so
+encumbered with wreckage of every sort, as seriously to endanger
+navigation.
+
+                                               PAPEETE, _February 26th_.
+
+The chief interest of daily life is watching for vessels. The mail from
+San Francisco is late, and of the long-looked-for ship from the Sandwich
+Isles nothing further has been heard. Both ships belong to Mrs Brander.
+The former—the Paloma—is called after her little daughter; the
+latter—the Maramma—bears one of her own names. A hundred times a day we
+look up to the semaphore to see whether the signals reveal any hint of
+the returning wanderers, but no cheering sign appears. It is very trying
+for my kind dear hostess, who has so much at stake, and whose eldest son
+Aleck is expected to return from Honolulu in the missing cattle-ship.
+
+Otherwise life is running on in strangely even tenor, and I begin to
+realise that in the South Seas, as in other places, delirious gaiety is
+only an occasional accident, and even music is only practised by fits
+and starts. Certainly it has been well for the truthfulness of my
+impressions of travel that I stayed here long enough to see a little of
+the _dessous des cartes_, instead of seeing everything only through the
+roseate glasses of the hopeful admiral, who was so sanguine that his
+multitudinous reforms would all flourish. I am glad that I have seen
+Tahiti in all its phases, especially in its quiet ordinary state, which
+no one travelling in a man-of-war, or in any other large ship, can ever
+see, as the kindly people are always glad of the smallest pretext for
+getting up festivities.
+
+Amongst other wrong impressions, I should certainly have carried away an
+idea that _himène_ singing was the normal condition of Tahitian
+life—that all the people were for ever warbling like birds, as naturally
+as they breathed, and that the very air was musical. I now find that
+this is by no means the case. Since the outburst of song which
+everywhere greeted King Ariiaue on his accession, all the birds have
+been mute. I have only heard one _himène_, and that was got up to order,
+in honour of H.M.S. Shah, and a very poor specimen it was.
+
+But chiefly I rejoice that my prolonged stay here with this fine family
+of real old Tahitian chiefs (who have treated me with the same loving
+kindness they heap on one another), has not only shown me whatever still
+remains of the true Tahitian element, but has also enabled me to
+realise, in person, the existence of the warm-hearted unbounded
+hospitality which (now necessarily wellnigh a tale of the past, in
+overcrowded British isles) still flourishes and luxuriates beneath these
+balmy heavens.
+
+But as all things must have an end, and my visit to Tahiti has already
+extended to five months, I now only await the arrival of either of the
+missing ships, to decide by which route to tear myself away from the
+Tahitian paradise, and all the kind, kind people in it, to whom it owes
+half its charm.
+
+                                                            _March 5th._
+
+Misfortunes never do come singly, and really it seems as if every vessel
+that has come in of late has brought tidings of some fresh loss. Of
+those for which we watched so anxiously, the first to arrive was the
+Paloma, from San Francisco. Great was the joy when she was sighted,
+great the dismay when it became known that she brought no mails. It
+appears that she had been becalmed on her voyage to ’Frisco, and so had
+arrived late. The French consul there, sooner than allow one day’s delay
+in starting the return mail, had chartered another vessel, the Bonanza,
+to bring it down, at a cost to the Paloma of 2000 dollars. The latter
+had to wait several days in San Francisco for cargo; and nevertheless,
+though the Bonanza is accounted a swift sailer, the Paloma reached
+Honolulu several days before her. She brought news that the Maramma got
+into so many difficulties at the Hawaiian Isles that Aleck Brander
+deemed it best to take passage by the mail-steamer up to San Francisco,
+intending to return thence in the Paloma; but finding that the Bonanza
+was chartered for an immediate start, he decided to come by her, and so
+has only just arrived, after both the other ships had been some days in
+harbour.
+
+The Maramma has had quite a chapter of accidents. After making an
+excellent run to Honolulu, she went down to Kauai to ship cattle, when
+it was discovered that she had sprung a serious leak, and had nine feet
+of water in her hold. Happily she was so close inshore that she landed
+all her cargo without difficulty. A Government steamer was sent down to
+tow her back to Honolulu, at a cost of 3000 dollars. Another 1000
+dollars were there expended on repairs, and to this must be added 2000
+more of dead loss on the voyage,—and all this was due to one rat-hole!
+
+Now she is undergoing further repairs here, and will very likely be
+despatched to Hawaii in a very few days, in which case she will probably
+go direct to Kauai, the most beautiful, and least visited, of all the
+Sandwich Isles. It is a very tempting possibility, yet the element of
+doubt as to whether she really will go at all, exists so clearly, that
+it seems wiser for me to take passage in the Paloma to San Francisco,
+and thence return to Honolulu by mail-steamer. It is a terribly long
+round; for whereas Honolulu is 2000 miles from here, San Francisco is at
+least 4000, as the crow flies, and as ships go, the voyage is often one
+of 5000 miles, or even more—a long voyage to undertake in a brigantine
+of 230 tons!
+
+Aleck Brander has been giving us most interesting accounts of his
+reception in Honolulu by all the royalties and high chiefs of Hawaii. As
+I have before mentioned, they all count blood-relationship with the high
+chiefs of Tahiti; and though they rarely meet, a visit from one to the
+other is a great event. So Aleck’s first visit was celebrated by a true
+native welcome, and he had the luck of seeing such traces of old
+Hawaiian custom as have not yet quite died out. But it sounds odd to
+hear of presentations of food, and of crouching servants, quite _à la_
+Fiji, combined with very smart American-Parisian dresses, very much
+_décolletée_. At least the photographs, of which Aleck has brought a
+large supply, represent the great ladies of Hawaii in very low-necked
+and short-sleeved dresses of gorgeous material. Certainly the simple
+robes of Tahiti are infinitely preferable.
+
+                                              ON BOARD THE PALOMA,
+                                                  _Saturday, 9th March_.
+
+The die is cast, the sad partings over, and I have bidden a long
+farewell to the kindest and most affectionate community I have yet
+discovered in all my wanderings. I took leave of them all yesterday
+morning, for the Paloma had gone to Hitiaa, on the other side of the
+island, there to load with oranges.
+
+My only fellow-passengers are a very kind couple, Mr and Mrs Boyd, who
+are accompanied by a pretty fair-haired child. We came together from
+Papeete, in a comfortable coach with canvas cover, and had a most lovely
+sixty miles’ drive along the shore, with the distant hills standing out
+clearer and more beautiful than I had ever yet seen them, and the
+foliage seeming richer than ever, as I looked on it all with the
+sorrowful feeling that it was for the last time.
+
+Several bridges had been washed away during a recent storm—the same
+which wrought such devastation in the Paumotus—so we had to cross the
+rivers at the mouth, by driving quite into the sea. It was rather
+nervous work, as the horses did not like it at all. But otherwise, the
+beautiful grass roads were in excellent condition, and we had four
+changes of very good horses, so the drive was most delightful.
+
+Now the beautiful isle lies far behind us, fading into the blue
+distance, and we are fairly started on our far journey.
+
+Small as is our ship, she is in every respect satisfactory, and as clean
+and cosy as a gentleman’s yacht. I never saw so small a vessel carry so
+much sail,—truly our Paloma deserves her name, for she is now flying
+before the breeze like a swift white-winged carrier-pigeon, bearing many
+a letter.[71]
+
+She also carries 270,000 oranges—a fragrant cargo. They are gathered
+unripe, to be ready for the market on our arrival. Probably, if we make
+a slow voyage, we shall seriously diminish their numbers! On their
+account, every part of the ship is kept as cool and airy as possible.
+
+Our cabins are excellent. Mine is large and comfortable, and has two
+windows opening on to the deck, so that they need never be shut unless
+weather is very bad. The table is excellent, the service quiet and
+attentive. Our Danish captain is an exceedingly good fellow, as is also
+his wife, who travels with him.
+
+The cook and steward, and the two mates, are Swedes and Germans. Seven
+Rarotongans compose the crew: all are very quiet and silent. So is
+little Edith, with her cat and kitten. The canary is the only noisy
+person on board, and sings joyously.
+
+We are starting as it were on a long yachting cruise in summer seas.
+
+                                                 _Saturday, April 20th_,
+                                             STILL ON BOARD THE PALOMA.
+
+Our summer cruise has lasted six weeks; we have made about the longest
+voyage on record. We have lain becalmed for days, which both the captain
+and his wife attribute to my perversity in writing letters on board!
+They say it _always_ happens when passengers write, and that it ought to
+be an irrevocable law that all ink-bottles are emptied when their owners
+embark. Unaccountable currents have drifted us far out of our course,
+and the irregular behaviour of the trade-wind has driven us right to the
+west of the Sandwich Isles, and yet had not the kindness to blow us
+close to Honolulu, where I might have met some vessel running in and
+transhipped,—Captain Nissen would not have dared to land me himself, as
+he would thereby have broken his mail contract. But we passed close to
+Kauai, which, seen from the sea, is a very uninteresting-looking island;
+and then we sailed so close to Niihau that we could distinguish every
+house. It did seem a pity that the aggravating contract should prevent
+my landing at once, instead of my having to go on all the way to San
+Francisco, just to return in a steamer! We have actually made a voyage
+of 6000 miles since we left Papeete! For my own part, I really have not
+disliked it. We have had lovely weather; everything has gone on most
+pleasantly; and what with reading, working, and painting, the days have
+been well filled.
+
+Yesterday was Good Friday, which in Germany and Denmark is called “the
+quiet day,”[72] and it was observed by the Danes and Germans, and all
+the crew, by a cessation from all manner of work not positively
+necessary. The Rarotongans are all Christians, and have their own books,
+which they read quietly on Sundays.
+
+Now we are off the coast of California. We are nearing the Golden Gates,
+and hope to find ourselves safe in harbour, before the dawn on Easter
+morning.
+
+
+                                THE END.
+
+
+                 PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.
+
+[Illustration: A LADY’S CRUISE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR]
+
+-----
+
+Footnote 1:
+
+  Since the above was written, Mr Watkin has been appointed Chairman (or
+  as we might say, Wesleyan Bishop) of Tongatabu.
+
+  Mr Baker has ceased to work in connection with the mission, and now
+  acts as Prime Minister to King George.
+
+Footnote 2:
+
+  For numerous instances of this, see ‘From the Hebrides to the
+  Himalayas’ (C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. i. pp. 203–210.
+
+Footnote 3:
+
+  I am happy to say that the king’s good sense carried the day, and
+  enabled the wishes of the people to find an independent voice. In July
+  1879, King George formally opened a Tongan Parliament, at which, for
+  the first time, representatives of the people were present, under the
+  new constitution, to discuss all questions relating to their own
+  wellbeing. Ere the close of the session, in the middle of September,
+  the law prohibiting the manufacture and wearing of native cloth, and
+  rendering certain articles of clothing compulsory, was abolished. Men
+  and women are now permitted to wear any clothes they please, in doors
+  or out, provided, of course, that they are decently clad according to
+  South Sea interpretation of the word. The only exception to this happy
+  rule of liberty is the interior of the Wesleyan Church at Nukualofa,
+  where it is still necessary for men to appear in full European
+  dress—coat, trousers, shoes, &c.—and for women to wear bonnets and
+  dresses! Those who cannot, or will not, comply with this regulation,
+  must stay outside the sanctuary.
+
+  The prohibition against women smoking was also modified. Doubtless the
+  revenue will suffer from the diminution of lines, but that can
+  scarcely be a matter of much regret. Various other wise measures were
+  passed, showing that the Tongans have awakened to understand the folly
+  of attempting to introduce the manners and customs of foreign
+  countries, without reference to the requirements and necessities of
+  their own people. Consequently several excellent Tongan customs
+  relative to tenure of lands, tribes, and status of the people, are now
+  legalised; and the representatives have shown their strong and
+  sensible desire to retain all that was good in their national code of
+  laws, but which had been put away, together with things evil, at the
+  suggestion of resident foreigners.
+
+  That the latter were so effectually prevented from unduly influencing
+  the young Parliament, was doubtless due to the presence of H.B.M.
+  Deputy-Commissioner for Tonga, A. P. Maudslay, and of Mr Wilkinson,
+  both of whom have been engaged in the establishment of the new
+  Government in Fiji, and well know the wisdom of ruling a
+  semi-civilised race by retaining, so far as is possible, their own
+  ancient feudal customs.
+
+Footnote 4:
+
+  A great Tongan chief, settled in Fiji, who, up to the time of
+  annexation, contested with Thakombau for the supremacy. I have just
+  received news of his death.
+
+Footnote 5:
+
+  Since my return to England, I have heard the statement corroborated.
+
+Footnote 6:
+
+  _Vide_ ‘At Home in Fiji’ (C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. ii.
+
+Footnote 7:
+
+  The struggle lasted for some time. Finally, Malietoa again got the
+  upper hand, and was acknowledged king by the foreign Powers, General
+  Bartlett, U.S., being his prime minister. In August 1879, the Hon. Sir
+  Arthur Hamilton Gordon, Commissioner for the Western Pacific, arrived
+  at Apia, and concluded a treaty with the king and Government of Samoa,
+  declaring perpetual peace and friendship between the people of their
+  respective isles. The Samoans ceded to Britain the right to establish
+  a naval station and coaling depot, as had previously been granted by
+  treaty both to Germany and America. On the 8th November 1880 King
+  Malietoa died. He was barely forty years of age, and a man greatly
+  loved by all his own people. Probably but for the disturbing presence
+  of the meddling whites, he might still be reigning over a happy and
+  prosperous people. As it is, the country is once more in a state of
+  anarchy; and the good bishop, whose heart yearned for the peace and
+  prosperity of the people, has himself passed away to the world where
+  all is peace.
+
+Footnote 8:
+
+  _Didunculus strigirostris._
+
+Footnote 9:
+
+  Or more correctly, in old Celtic parlance, _tuaphol_—that is to say, a
+  turn contrary to the course of the sun, keeping the left hand towards
+  the centre. It was only used when invoking a curse, as opposed to the
+  turn _deisul_, which invoked a blessing on the object round which the
+  turn was made. The superstition is common to all lands in whose early
+  mythology sun-worship held a place. See ‘From the Hebrides to the
+  Himalayas,’ vol. i. p. 203.
+
+Footnote 10:
+
+  The _sulu_ of the Friendly and Fijian Isles, the _pareo_ of Tahiti,
+  the _sarong_ of the Malays, or the _comboy_ of the Singalese, is
+  simply a fathom of cloth wrapped round the lower limbs, and reaching
+  to the knee or the ankle, according to the width of the material.
+
+Footnote 11:
+
+  Capital of Fiji.
+
+Footnote 12:
+
+  Shortly after the above was written, the Pacific was electrified by
+  the sudden collapse of this huge mercantile house, which failed for
+  the modest sum of one million sterling.
+
+Footnote 13:
+
+  _Vide_ New Zealand Blue-Book, 1874—evidence of Mr Sterndale, late
+  _employé_ of Mr Godeffroy.
+
+Footnote 14:
+
+  Sea-urchins.
+
+Footnote 15:
+
+  _Fa_ “in the manner of”—
+
+                       _Vaka-Viti_,  Fiji-wise.
+                       _Faka-Tonga_, Tonga-wise.
+                       _Fa-Samoa_,   Samoa-wise.
+
+Footnote 16:
+
+  Great love to you.
+
+Footnote 17:
+
+  Apparently women are held in higher estimation by the Samoans than by
+  some folk in the British Isles. I have just heard of a Highlander
+  driving a very fierce bull along a highroad. To him, quoth a friend,
+  “That is a dangerous-looking brute!” “Ou na!” replies the owner; “he
+  is just as ceevil as a sheep. He wadna hurt onybody, unless, maybe,
+  weemen and bairns and suchlike!”
+
+Footnote 18:
+
+  The Rev. W. Wyatt Gill has recorded a multitude of most interesting
+  examples of such parables from nature. Moreover, happily for all
+  lovers of such lore, he has, during his mission career in the Hervey
+  Isles, found time to preserve many delightful “Myths and Songs from
+  the South Pacific.” It is much to be wished that the same could be
+  done for other groups.
+
+Footnote 19:
+
+  _Crinum asiaticum._
+
+Footnote 20:
+
+  Nineteen Years in Polynesia. By the Rev. George Turner, London
+  Missionary Society.
+
+Footnote 21:
+
+  For a few examples, to which many more might be added, see ‘From the
+  Hebrides to the Himalayas,’ vol. i. pp. 16, 74, 130–134.
+
+Footnote 22:
+
+  _Vide_ ‘At Home in Fiji,’ by C. F. Gordon Cumming.
+
+Footnote 23:
+
+  _Aitutaki_, “led by God.”
+
+Footnote 24:
+
+  Notably one dug out of the peat-moss at Ballachulish, now in the
+  Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh; and those in the Museum at Hull; also
+  those in the Berlin Museum. All these have the eyes formed of quartz
+  pebbles, instead of the bits of pearly shell or of obsidian used in
+  the manufacture of idols in the Pacific.
+
+  The stone gods also had their counterparts in our own isles. When Dr
+  Turner visited the Union or Tokelau Isles in 1850, he found that the
+  great god, Tui Tokelau, was supposed to be embodied in a rude stone,
+  which was carefully wrapped up in fine mats, and never seen by any
+  human eyes save those of the king, who is also the high priest. Even
+  he might only look upon the sacred stone once a year, when the old
+  mats were removed and new ones supplied. Of course constant exposure
+  in all weather, day and night, soon decayed the mats; but the
+  worshippers continually offered new ones, _especially in cases of
+  sickness_, and these were wrapped round the idol, so that, ere the day
+  came round for its disrobing, it attained a prodigious size. The old
+  mats were considered so sacred that none might touch them; so they
+  were laid in a place apart, and there left to rot. The month of May
+  was especially devoted to the worship of this god, and the people
+  assembled from all the Tokelau isles to hold a great feast in its
+  honour, and to pray for prosperity and health, and especially _for an
+  abundant supply of fish_ and cocoa-nuts.
+
+  Now turn from the Pacific to the North Atlantic, and read a statement
+  by the Earl of Roden, in his ‘Progress of the Reformation in Ireland.’
+  He says:—
+
+  “In the south island—_i.e._, Inniskea, off the coast of Mayo—in the
+  house of a man named Monigan, a stone idol, called in the Irish
+  _Neevougi_, has been, from time immemorial, religiously preserved and
+  worshipped. This god resembles in appearance a thick roll of home-spun
+  flannel, which arises from the custom of dedicating a dress of that
+  material to it whenever its aid is sought; this is sewn on by an old
+  woman, its priestess, whose peculiar care it is. Of the early history
+  of this idol no authentic information can be procured, but its power
+  is believed to be immense. _They pray to it in time of sickness_; it
+  is invoked _when a storm is desired to dash some hapless ship upon
+  their coast_; and again, the exercise of its power is solicited in
+  calming the angry waves _to admit of fishing_ or visiting the
+  mainland.”
+
+  It scarcely seems possible, does it, to realise that our own ancestors
+  were as gross idolaters as any South Sea Islanders? Yet in the
+  majority of these isles the present generation have never seen an idol
+  of any sort; and should they ever visit our museums, they would gaze
+  on the gods of their own fathers as wonderingly as we do on those of
+  the early Britons.
+
+Footnote 25:
+
+  Alas! the fate of the majority has already been sealed. In the spring
+  of 1881, the following brief paragraph announced that the lives of
+  these brave pioneers had already been sacrificed:—
+
+  “MASSACRE OF MISSIONARIES.—Despatches received in Liverpool announce
+  the massacre in New Guinea of a number of missionaries belonging to
+  the London Missionary Society. The news was conveyed to Melbourne in a
+  telegram from the Rev. Mr Beswick, who himself narrowly escaped with
+  his life. On the 7th of March the missionaries were attacked by the
+  natives at Kato, in the district of Port Moresby, Hulu, and four of
+  them, with two of their wives, four children, and two servants, were
+  killed. The natives also attempted to kill four native boys who were
+  with the missionary party, but they saved themselves by swimming. Not
+  the slightest provocation was given; but it is stated in the despatch
+  that the perpetrators of other previous massacres on the coast have
+  not been punished, and this is considered to be the main cause of the
+  outbreak. The total number of persons killed was twelve, but the list
+  would have been much greater had not the remainder of the party made
+  their immediate escape. For fear the natives would make a further
+  attack upon the missionaries in the outlying districts, they were all
+  removed from their stations to Port Moresby.”
+
+Footnote 26:
+
+  Foreign.
+
+Footnote 27:
+
+  The thought of this poor savage, week by week imperilling his life by
+  crossing that stormy sea in his frail canoe, has often come vividly to
+  my mind as an illustration of the words in Deut. xxx. 11–14: “This
+  commandment which I command thee this day, it is not hidden from thee,
+  neither is it far off. It is not ... beyond the sea, that thou
+  shouldest say, Who shall go over the sea for us, and bring it unto us,
+  that we may hear it, and do it? But the word is very nigh unto thee,
+  in thy mouth, and in thy heart, that thou mayest do it.”
+
+Footnote 28:
+
+  Christianity.
+
+Footnote 29:
+
+  See note on _Etu_ worship at the end of this letter.
+
+Footnote 30:
+
+  See an interesting article on the origin of clan names in Britain,
+  ‘Cornhill Magazine,’ September 1881—“Old English Clans.”
+
+Footnote 31:
+
+  It is hard to have to think of that tender and loving heart as of a
+  mere material relic. Yet, as the heart of the Bruce, enshrined in its
+  golden casket, was carried by his true knight to that Holy Land which
+  his feet might never tread, so has the heart of this saintly
+  prelate—the first Bishop of Samoa—been borne by his faithful
+  followers, to find its resting-place in the church where for so many
+  years he pleaded for, and with, his people.
+
+  It was brought from France by Père Lamaze, now consecrated Bishop of
+  the Isles. The heart is enclosed in a glass urn, with an outer case of
+  gold, ornamented with precious stones, and supported by four angels.
+  On the lid of this reliquary is a representation of a bishop appearing
+  before the judgment-seat of our Lord.
+
+  On reaching Samoa, the casket was deposited at Vaea, while
+  preparations for its reception were made at Apia. On the 24th May
+  1881, about six hundred Catholics assembled at sunrise at the church
+  at Vaea, to pay a last tribute of respect and devotion to their loved
+  bishop; then forming in solemn procession, they moved towards Apia.
+  The children from the convent school at Savalalo walked first,
+  followed by their teachers; next the Catholics of Apia and the
+  surrounding districts. These were followed by the clergy, four of whom
+  acted as pall-bearers, while four others carried the heart. Last of
+  all came the Catholic chiefs, the catechists of Vaea College, and the
+  natives residing at the mission-house at Apia.
+
+  On reaching the church, a sermon was preached by Bishop Lamaze, and
+  the heart was then deposited in a niche in the wall, there to remain
+  enshrined, as a perpetual memorial to the people of Samoa of the
+  earnest and noble life that was spent in striving to exemplify the
+  holiness he preached.
+
+Footnote 32:
+
+  The following paragraph is from a recent Hawaiian Gazette, showing the
+  course of events in Samoa:—
+
+  “We learn, through the courtesy of Lieutenant Abbot of the Lackawanna,
+  some interesting particulars in relation to the political condition of
+  the Samoan archipelago. The chief Malietoa, whose name is identified
+  with the sovereignty of Samoa, is dead, and his nephew and namesake
+  has succeeded to his political authority and state; but a rival chief,
+  Kepua Tomisasu, has been contesting the succession, and previous to
+  the arrival of the Lackawanna there had been a series of desultory
+  semi-barbarous war campaigns—not resulting in any decisive action or
+  notable slaughter of men, but causing widespread ruin, robbery, and
+  unrest. The American commander Gillis now presented his good offices
+  in the way of reconciliation, and to establish between rival chiefs
+  and peoples of the same land a more harmonious and patriotic spirit.
+  And we are happy to say that, after many baffling discussions, a
+  political unity and harmony on Samoa have been effected—Malietoa II.
+  being proclaimed King of Samoa, and his rival, Kepua, the Premier of
+  Samoa, with an authority on public questions somewhat like our former
+  Kuhina Nui.
+
+  “The Samoan warriors have all dispersed and returned to peaceful
+  pursuits. The terms of peace were drawn up and signed on board the
+  Lackawanna in the harbour of Apia, and a royal salute of 21 guns was
+  fired from the vessel in honour of the event.
+
+  “We are glad to recognise that in this instance the commander of an
+  American man-of-war intervenes solely as a peacemaker, and to promote
+  the best welfare of a Polynesian people.”
+
+Footnote 33:
+
+  Colonial abbreviation for San Francisco.
+
+Footnote 34:
+
+  Capital of Fiji.
+
+Footnote 35:
+
+  An explanation which resulted in the complete exoneration of Captain
+  Aube, and his appointment to the command of La Savoie,—a finer vessel
+  than that from which he had been so summarily dismissed.
+
+Footnote 36:
+
+  The good bishop had the satisfaction of reaching _la belle France_,
+  and there effectually pleading the cause of his friend, ere he laid
+  down the burden of life, which he had borne with so much anxious care
+  for the weal of his people. He died very shortly after his return to
+  Europe.
+
+Footnote 37:
+
+  King Pomare II. was the first person who was publicly baptised in
+  Tahiti. The service took place on 16th July 1819.
+
+Footnote 38:
+
+  _Vahine_, a woman.
+
+Footnote 39:
+
+  And in this year of 1882 still continue to crop up, greatly to the
+  benefit of the lawyers, who find in the affairs of the Estate Brander,
+  a harvest far too remunerative to be lightly abandoned.
+
+Footnote 40:
+
+  Soon after my return to England, I heard that this happy home had been
+  invaded by ophthalmia of a virulent type, necessitating an immediate
+  return to France, and long and anxious care; but nevertheless
+  resulting in the partial blindness for life of two of those merry
+  boys. Even the Tahitian paradise has its thorns.
+
+Footnote 41:
+
+  The late Sir Archibald Dunbar of Northfield, in the county of Elgin,
+  married, firstly, my father’s sister, Miss Gordon Cumming of Altyre
+  and Gordonstown; and secondly, Miss Brander, heiress of Pitgaveny,
+  whom, consequently, we have known all our lives, and loved much.
+
+Footnote 42:
+
+  Pandanus.
+
+Footnote 43:
+
+  My soul is defiled with sin.
+
+Footnote 44:
+
+  _Musa uranascopus._
+
+Footnote 45:
+
+  _Acanthaster solaris._
+
+Footnote 46:
+
+  _Acrocladia mamillata._
+
+Footnote 47:
+
+  _Conus textilis._
+
+Footnote 48:
+
+  Let not the nations of the West sneer at these superstitions of the
+  East. Faith in the efficacy of the king’s touch as a cure for scrofula
+  was implicit both in France and England for many a long year. So early
+  as A.D. 481 it was practised by Clovis. And it is recorded that on
+  Easter Day, 1686, Louis XIV. touched 1600 persons, saying to each, “Le
+  roy te touche, Dieu te guérisse!” This singular divine right was first
+  claimed in England by Edward the Confessor in 1058, and his successors
+  carried it on. Charles I. did, on St John’s Day, 1633, visit Holyrood
+  Chapel, where “he heallit 100 persons, young and old, of the cruelles
+  or king’s evil.” Charles II. actually touched 92,107 such
+  patients—being an average of 12 per diem for twenty years. His
+  exchequer must have suffered by this kingly privilege, as he presented
+  a broad gold piece to each sufferer. The touch of Queen Elizabeth was
+  declared “a sure relief when all other methods have failed.” Henry
+  VIII., not content with miraculously curing all scrofula patients,
+  also healed those afflicted with cruel cramps. Dr Johnson speaks of
+  his earliest recollections of Queen Anne, into whose awful presence he
+  had been ushered in his infancy, that by her royal touch she might
+  cure him of his sore disease! The office appointed by the Church to be
+  said on these occasions was actually retained in the English liturgy
+  till 1719, when it was omitted by command of George I. But so late as
+  1745 many of the Jacobite party came secretly to Charles Edward, to
+  crave his healing touch. See ‘From the Hebrides to the Himalayas’ (C.
+  F. Gordon Cumming), vol. i. p. 264.
+
+Footnote 49:
+
+  _Dracæna terminalis._
+
+Footnote 50:
+
+  _Asplenium nidus._
+
+Footnote 51:
+
+  Which proved to be the exact state of the case.
+
+Footnote 52:
+
+  All of which I found to be strictly true. Undoubtedly, the ideal
+  Pacific Isles lie south of the equator.
+
+Footnote 53:
+
+  We can scarcely describe this proceeding as the _thin_ end of the
+  wedge, but it was obvious from the beginning that the assumption of
+  the Protectorate was merely a cloak for forcibly taking possession of
+  these gems of the Pacific. _The cloak was finally thrown aside in June
+  1880, when King Pomare V. was persuaded by the commandant to cede the
+  nominal sovereignty of the isles to those who had so long held its
+  reality_, and to accept a life-pension of 12,000 dollars a year, which
+  he might enjoy in peace in his own fashion, and so escape from the
+  continual tutoring, which made his kingly rank a wearisome burden,
+  devoid of all honour.
+
+  _The annexation of Tahiti was formally proclaimed in Papeete on 24th
+  March 1881_, and was made the occasion of a brilliant festival, such
+  as the light-hearted crowds are ever ready to welcome. Great were the
+  official rejoicings. From every ship in the harbour, and every corner
+  of the town, floated the tricolour, which likewise adorned the raven
+  tresses of the women and the button-holes of the men. Great was the
+  noise of big guns, and the amount of powder expended on salutes. An
+  imposing column of all branches of the service—sailors and marines,
+  marine artillery, with their guns, infantry, and gendarmes—marched
+  round the town, headed by the band: “A Tahiti, comme en France, on
+  aime à voir passer nos soldats,” says the ‘Messager de Tahiti.’ So the
+  lovely town was _en fête_. Every _himène_ chorus had arrived from
+  every corner of the isles, making the whole air musical. Thousands of
+  natives, all in their brightest, freshest dresses, kept up incessant
+  movement in the clear sunlight or cool shade. Everywhere games and
+  feasting were the order of the day. In the governor’s beautiful
+  gardens, a brilliant banquet for upwards of a hundred persons was
+  served in a great tent, all as graceful as the combined taste of
+  France and Tahiti could make it. Then followed a lovely garden
+  festival, just such as that described by “The Earl and the Doctor,” a
+  gay ball for the leading inhabitants, while “the people” danced no
+  less joyously on the green, outside the sacred precincts. Games,
+  music, dancing, and feasting, with a night of brilliant illuminations
+  and fireworks,—all these, combined with lovely surroundings and
+  perfect weather, made the great official festival of Tahiti a day
+  which the French naval officers very naturally consider one to be
+  remembered for ever, but which, perchance, may have caused some of the
+  older inhabitants an angry and bitter pang, for the independence of
+  their country thus lost for ever.
+
+Footnote 54:
+
+  Immediately alter the declaration of the annexation of the Society
+  Isles, comes the news that _the French have also annexed the Gambier
+  Isles_, which lie to the south-west, in the direction of Pitcairn’s
+  Isle. _Our Gallic friends have thus secured a very admirable
+  semicircle of the four finest groups in the Eastern Pacific._ Here
+  they can now consolidate their strength, and await the influx of
+  commerce which must of necessity pass through this _cordon_, _when M.
+  Lesseps shall have opened the Panama Canal for the traffic of the
+  world_.
+
+  Here French ships will touch on their way to and from the Loyalty
+  Isles and Cochin-China; while ships of all nations, plying between
+  Europe and Australasia, will necessarily pass the same way, and
+  contribute their quota to the wealth of the French Pacific.
+
+  The Gambier Islands have been gradually prepared for their adoption by
+  France, the Catholic Mission having there ruled supreme for some
+  twenty years.
+
+  Till quite recently, the Bible has been a prohibited book, but now, of
+  the few remaining natives, a large proportion are learning to read
+  Tahitian, in order to be able to study the Scriptures for themselves;
+  and the Protestant Mission in Tahiti has responded to this desire, by
+  sending copies of the New Testament for gratuitous distribution in the
+  group. From one cause or another, however, a very small number of
+  natives now exist, the islands having become wellnigh depopulated.
+
+Footnote 55:
+
+  Although the French have had possession of the group for so many
+  years, the natives of some of the islands have never been really in
+  subjection to the authorities until last year, when Admiral Bergasse
+  du Petit Thouars visited the group, and with the aid of volunteers,
+  natives of Tahiti, and of the friendly isles of Marquesas, succeeded
+  in disarming and bringing into subjection the hostile tribes, and that
+  without firing a shot.
+
+  The admiral himself headed the troops across the mountains from
+  village to village, arriving one night on the coast about midnight,
+  having been conducted by natives who knew the passes: these passes
+  were lighted up by the electric light from the frigate, which was
+  anchored in the bay. The French took 600 muskets from the natives of
+  the two islands, Hiva-oa and Fatuhiva. They say that the natives are
+  really not a bad sort of people, but their curse, like that of all the
+  islands, is “_drink_.” This, and the conduct of unprincipled
+  foreigners, has been the real cause of all the trouble.
+
+  I affix a note which I copy from the ‘Messager de Tahiti’ for 30th of
+  July 1880, which is all that has appeared in the paper on the
+  subject:—
+
+  “Le Contre-Amiral commandant en chef le corps expéditionnaire aux
+  Marquises, témoigne aux volontaires Tahitiens, aux volontaires
+  Marquisiens, aux militaires de toutes armes, ainsi qu’aux marins qui
+  ont pris part à l’expédition des Marquises, toute sa satisfaction.
+
+  “Grâce à leur esprit militaire, à leur dévouement et à leur
+  discipline, l’île de Hiva-oa et celle de Fatuhiva ont été rapidement
+  soumises et désarmés, et la paix régne partout aux Marquises.”
+
+Footnote 56:
+
+  Sun-dried nut, exported for the manufacture of oil.
+
+Footnote 57:
+
+  _Holothuroides._ Chinese name, _Tripang_.
+
+Footnote 58:
+
+  The question was decided in her favour. She has been refitted and
+  renamed and now sails the Pacific as the Annie Johnson.
+
+Footnote 59:
+
+  I do not by this mean to suggest any trace of a common origin, merely
+  founded on ancestor-worship, which prevailed in almost all countries,
+  and which in the Pacific is to this day practised by the Papuan races.
+  The islanders of the Torres Straits, in common with those of the Line
+  islands, worship the skulls of their ancestors, and treasure them in
+  their huts as reverently as did the Tahitians in heathen days.
+
+Footnote 60:
+
+  For a trace of this custom, as practised in the Marquesas, see p. 257.
+
+Footnote 61:
+
+  Whence has developed the Torii.
+
+Footnote 62:
+
+  This is emphatically true of Fijian. See ‘At Home in Fiji,’ vol. i. p.
+  136.
+
+Footnote 63:
+
+  _Calophyllum inophyllum._
+
+Footnote 64:
+
+  _Entada scandens._
+
+Footnote 65:
+
+  If any are disposed to doubt this statement, they have only to refer
+  to the circumstantial and thoroughly authenticated accounts published
+  by the various missionary societies; those, for instance, of the
+  American Board, which again and again, in the early days of the
+  mission to the Sandwich Isles, have occasion to refer to the outrages
+  committed by British and American seamen, who came in armed bands to
+  attack the mission stations, in their rage at the influence acquired
+  by the missionaries, and the consequent change in the morals of the
+  people. Again and again life and property were threatened, and the
+  mission premises were only saved from destruction by the timely
+  arrival of determined chiefs and their retainers.
+
+Footnote 66:
+
+  The gods also were supposed to feed on the essence of the food offered
+  to them. Every evening the priest in the principal temple of Mangaia
+  cooked an ovenful of _taro_ for their use, and threw one root at a
+  time into the scrub, dedicating each to one of the gods. When the
+  thirteen principal deities had thus been recognised the priest threw
+  one more, as an offering to all the lesser gods, of whose names and
+  attributes he was ignorant. This ceremony exactly answers to one which
+  I have seen practised at the Buddhist monasteries in China, where, ere
+  the monks taste their own food, a small portion is set aside on a
+  pillar, as an offering to any saintly or divine beings whom they have
+  neglected in their temple-worship.
+
+Footnote 67:
+
+  _Erythrina corallodendrum._
+
+Footnote 68:
+
+  The next I saw were at the British Legation in Pekin, where they were
+  objects of intense interest, as being probably the first ever grown in
+  the Celestial Empire.
+
+Footnote 69:
+
+  The Malay apple, familiar to us in Fiji as the _kaveeka_.
+
+Footnote 70:
+
+  Just before leaving Tahiti, I bestowed equal care on three cases
+  containing 6000 stones, which were carried by sailing-ship to New
+  Zealand and thence to Fiji. Their arrival there was anxiously
+  expected, and all arrangements made for their speedy distribution
+  throughout the group. Alas! alas! when, after long delays, the cases
+  were opened, they were found to contain a mass of decay; poor dead
+  plants, which had sprouted during the voyage, and straightway died.
+  When this sad news reached me, I bethought me sorrowfully of the
+  advice given me by Monseigneur Janssen—namely, that as plants require
+  light and air to enable them to sprout, I would do well to compel them
+  to sleep by packing them in soot, and then having the case carefully
+  caulked. The mess involved in such work was so horrible, that I shrank
+  from undertaking it, but I bequeath the good advice to my successors
+  in the attempt.
+
+Footnote 71:
+
+  Paloma—a dove.
+
+Footnote 72:
+
+  Der stille Tag.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+                          TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
+
+
+ ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ ● Used numbers for footnotes, placing them all at the end of the last
+     chapter.
+ ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77356 ***
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+  <body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77356 ***</div>
+
+<div class='tnotes covernote'>
+
+<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p>
+
+<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div>A LADY’S CRUISE</div>
+    <div class='c002'>IN A</div>
+    <div class='c002'>FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c003'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“The morning watch was come; the vessel lay</div>
+      <div class='line'>Her course, and gently made her liquid way;</div>
+      <div class='line'>The cloven billow flashed from off her prow</div>
+      <div class='line'>In furrows formed, by that majestic plough.</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>‘Huzza for Otaheite!’ was the cry.</div>
+      <div class='line'>The gentle island and the genial soil,</div>
+      <div class='line'>The friendly hearts, the feasts without a toil,</div>
+      <div class='line'>The courteous manners, but from nature caught,</div>
+      <div class='line'>The wealth unhoarded, and the love unbought.</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>The soil where every cottage showed a home,</div>
+      <div class='line'>The sea-spread net, the lightly launched canoe,</div>
+      <div class='line'>Which stemmed the studded archipelago</div>
+      <div class='line'>O’er whose blue bosom rose the starry isles.</div>
+      <div class='line'>And sweetly now, those untaught melodies</div>
+      <div class='line'>Broke the luxurious silence of the skies,</div>
+      <div class='line'>The sweet siesta of a summer day,</div>
+      <div class='line'>The tropic afternoon of Toobonai,</div>
+      <div class='line'>When every flower was bloom, and air was balm,</div>
+      <div class='line'>And the first breath began to stir the palm.”</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in32'>—<i>The Island</i>: <span class='sc'>Lord Byron</span>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div id='Frontispiece'  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/a0022_frontispiece.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>PAPEETE. CAPITAL OF TAHITI.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='titlepage'>
+
+<div>
+  <h1 class='c004'><span class='xlarge'>A LADY’S CRUISE</span><br> <span class='small'>IN A</span><br> FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR</h1>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c005'>
+    <div><span class='small'>BY</span></div>
+    <div class='c002'><span class='large'>C. F. GORDON CUMMING</span></div>
+    <div class='c002'>AUTHOR OF ‘AT HOME IN FIJI,’ ‘FROM THE HEBRIDES TO</div>
+    <div>THE HIMALAYAS,’ ETC.</div>
+    <div class='c005'><span class='small'>NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME</span></div>
+    <div class='c002'><span class='small'><i>WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS</i></span></div>
+    <div class='c005'>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS</div>
+    <div>EDINBURGH AND LONDON</div>
+    <div>MDCCCLXXXII</div>
+    <div class='c005'><span class='xsmall'><i>All Rights reserved</i></span></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_v'>v</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c007'>When, in the spring of 1875, Sir Arthur Hamilton Gordon
+was appointed first Governor of Fiji, I had the good fortune
+to be invited to form one of the party who accompanied
+Lady Gordon to that far country.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Two years slipped away, brimful of interest, and each
+month made me feel more ‘At Home in Fiji,’ more fascinated
+with its lovely scenery, more content to linger among its
+isles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then a counter-charm was brought to bear upon the spell
+which held me thus entranced. The chief magician appeared
+in the guise of a high ecclesiastic of the Roman Church,
+clothed in purple, and wearing the mystic ring and cross of
+amethyst; while his coadjutor, a French gentleman of the
+noble old school, was the commander of a large French man-of-war,
+which had been placed at the service of the Bishop
+of Samoa, to enable him to visit all the most remote portions
+of his diocese. Already this warlike mission-ship had peacefully
+touched at many points of exceeding beauty and
+interest, and our visitors had no sooner recognised my keen
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_vi'>vi</span>appreciation of scenery, and inveterate love of sketching,
+than they formally and most cordially invited me to complete
+<i>le tour de la mission</i>, and so fill fresh portfolios with
+reminders of the beautiful scenes which the vessel was about
+to visit.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Being duly imbued with a British conviction that such an
+invitation could not possibly be a <i>bonâ fide</i> one, I at first
+treated it merely as a polite form; but when it was again
+and again renewed, in such terms as to leave no possible
+doubt of its sincerity, and when, moreover, we learnt that
+the most comfortable cabin in the ship had actually been
+prepared for the invited guest, and that its owner was
+thoroughly in earnest in his share of the invitation, then
+indeed we agreed that the chance was too unique to be lost;
+and so it came to pass that on the 5th September 1877 I
+started on the cruise in a French man-of-war, which proved
+one of the most delightful episodes in many years of travel.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_vii'>vii</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>NOTE TO THE FIRST EDITION.<br> <span class='c009'>THE KEY TO THE PANAMA CANAL.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c007'>While these pages were passing through the press, I have received
+details from various sources, which prove that the policy referred
+to at p. <a href='#Page_241'>241</a> is being actively carried out.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Not content with holding the Marquesas, the Paumotus, Tahiti,
+and the Gambier Isles, France seems resolved to annex every desirable
+island lying to the east of Samoa, thus securing possession
+of every good harbour and coaling station lying between New
+Zealand and the coast of South America; and also, diverting all
+the trade of these isles, from Britain’s Australian colonies, to a
+French centre, which shall command the great commercial highway
+of the future, when the Panama Canal shall be completed.
+Raiatea in the Society Isles has recently been formally annexed,
+and the independence of Huahine and Bora-Bora threatened.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now a further step is contemplated. The Austral and Hervey
+groups still remain free. They are self-governed, and Christianity
+is firmly established among their people.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>According to the latest information, a French man-of-war visited
+their principal isles last August, to command the inhabitants to
+divert their present trade from New Zealand to Tahiti, assuring
+them that Great Britain had undertaken not to interfere with
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_viii'>viii</span>French action anywhere to the east of Samoa. The islanders, who
+had at first received the French vessel with all honour, no sooner
+got an inkling of the true object of its visit than they became
+alarmed, and returned all presents which had been made to them
+by the captain; who thereupon assured them that the French
+admiral was on his way thither, and would soon bring them to
+their bearings, and that they would have to accept a French
+protectorate.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Remembering the history of French protection in Tahiti, the
+Australs and Hervey Islanders are now justly alarmed for their
+own independence.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_ix'>ix</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CONTENTS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER I.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <th class='c011'></th>
+    <th class='c012'>PAGE</th>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Letter to England announcing start from Fiji—Vague plans,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER II.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Life in a French man-of-war—Convent-life in Tonga—Early martyrs—Wesleyan mission—Roman Catholic mission—Cyclopean tombs at Mua—Gigantic trilithon—Fines and taxes—King George Tupou,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_3'>3</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER III.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Sail from Tonga to Vavau—Volcano of Tofua—Wesleyan mission—Two thousand miles from a doctor—Orange-groves—A lovely sea lake—Coral caves,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IV.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Life on board ship—The Wallis Isles—Fotuna—Sunday Isle—Cyclopean remains on Easter Isle—Stone adzes—Samoa—Pango-Pango harbour,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER V.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Boat transit to Leone—Spouting caves—Council of war—Sketch of Samoan history—Night dances,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VI.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>A shore without a reef—Samoan plants—Houses—Animals—Laying foundation-stone of a church—School festival—the Navigator’s Isles,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_61'>61</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_x'>x</span>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' >Vanquished chiefs of the Puletoa faction under protection of the union-jack—Convent school—“Bully” Hayes—Postal difficulties—House of Godeffroy—Village of Mulinunu—Vegetables and fish—Advantages of Anglo-American companies,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_74'>74</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VIII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>The Ishmaelites of the Pacific—Injudicious intervention—Fa-Samoa picnic—A torchlight walk—Training college at Malua—Apt illustrations by native preachers—Dr Turner—Mission to the New Hebrides—Escape to Samoa—Of many changes on many isles,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_89'>89</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IX.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>A sketch of the Samoan mission—The Rev. John Williams determines to visit the Navigator’s Isles—Preliminary work in the Hervey group—Discovery of Rarotonga—Conversion of its people—They help Williams to build a ship which shall convey him to Samoa—Visit Tonga—Proceed to Samoa—Overthrow of idolatry—Reverence for old mats—Williams’s grave at Apia,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_118'>118</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER X.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Leave Samoa—Reach Tahiti—Grey shadows—Death of Queen Pomare—La Loire and her passengers—A general dispersion—Life ashore at Papeete—Admiral Serre and the royal family—Families of Salmon and Brander—Adoption,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_148'>148</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XI.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Papeete—Catholic mission—Protestant mission—A christening party—La Maison Brandère—Tales of the past—Evenings in Tahiti—La musique—Plans—Sunday,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_164'>164</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Short sketch of a royal progress round Tahiti,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_177'>177</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>The royal progress round Tahiti—Life day by day—<i>Himènes</i>—A beautiful shore—Manufacture of arrowroot flowers—A deserted cotton plantation—Tahitian dancing—The Areois—Vanilla plantations—Fort of Taravao,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_182'>182</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xi'>xi</span>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIV.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>The royal progress round Tahiti (<i>continued</i>)—French fort at Taravou—The peninsula—Life in bird-cage houses—Torchlight procession—Return to Papeete,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_198'>198</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XV.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>The semaphore—Immutable tides—The coral-reef—Spearing fish—Netting—Catching sharks—A royal mausoleum—Superstitions of East and West—Centipedes—Intoxicating drinks—Influenza—Death of Mrs Simpson,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_210'>210</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVI.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>The royal progress round Moorea—The Seignelay starts for the Marquesas and Paumotus—Indecision,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_226'>226</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Vain regrets—Some account of the Marquesas and the Paumotu groups,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_236'>236</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVIII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Tahitian hospitality—A South Sea store—A bathing picnic—The Marquesans—Tattooing—Ancient games of Tahiti—Malay descent—Theory of a northerly migration,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_267'>267</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIX.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Life in Papeete—The market—Churches—Country life in the South Seas,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_286'>286</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XX.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Visit to the Protestant mission on Moorea—A sketch of the early history of the mission,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_294'>294</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXI.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>A healing tree—Plantation life—Vanilla crops—Cat-and-dog life—A foiled assassin—The tropics of to-day—England in days of yore—Among the crags—Infanticide—Heathen days,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_310'>310</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_xii'>xii</span>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Life on Moorea—An ancient place of sacrifice—Arrival of H.M.S. Shah—Hospitalities on land and water,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_322'>322</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXIII.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>The atoll group of Tetiaroa,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_335'>335</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXIV.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>New Year’s Day in Tahiti—Ascent of Fautawa valley—Of palm salads, screw-pines, and bread-fruit—Packing mango-stones—Return of Gilbert Islanders—Departure of the Seignelay,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_339'>339</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XXV.</td></tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>&#160;</td>
+    <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'>Hurricane at the Paumotus—Mahena plantation—Watching for vessels—Farewell to Tahiti,</td>
+    <td class='c012'><a href='#Page_353'>353</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_xiii'>xiii</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+  <tr>
+    <th class='c011'></th>
+    <th class='c013'>PAGE</th>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Papeete—Capital</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><i><a href='#Frontispiece'>Frontispiece</a></i></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Trilithon, Tonga</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>A Coral Cave, Vavau</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_29'>29</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Opunohu Bay, Moorea</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_153'>153</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Le Diadème</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_169'>169</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>A Royal Reception, Haapiti</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_229'>229</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Pao Pao, or Cook’s Bay</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_230'>230</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Ancient Marai</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><a href='#Page_324'>324</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c011'><span class='sc'>Map</span>,</td>
+    <td class='c013'><i><a href='#end'>At the end</a></i></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<h3 class='c014'>NOTE.</h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The “Wa Kalou,”—<i>i.e.</i>, “Fern of God,”—introduced on the cover of this
+book, is a most delicate climbing fern which overtwines tall trees and shrubs
+in the Pacific Isles, forming a misty veil of indescribable loveliness. When in
+the state of fructification, each leaf is edged with a dotted fringe of brown
+seed. In the Fijian Isles its beauty has gained for it the name here given;
+and in olden days the ridge-poles of the temples were wreathed with it, as
+those of chiefs’ houses are to this day. It also finds favour for personal adornment,
+trailing garlands of this exquisite green being singularly becoming to a
+clear brown skin.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div>A LADY’S CRUISE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR.</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+<div  class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/p0010_deco.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+<div>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER I.<br> <span class='c009'>LETTER TO ENGLAND ANNOUNCING START FROM FIJI—VAGUE PLANS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Nasova, Fiji</span>, <i>5th Sept. 1877</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>My dear Eisa</span>,—I have only time for a line, to enclose a packet of
+seed of a lovely shrub which bears clusters of golden bells. Also
+to tell you that I am just starting for a cruise in a French man-of-war,
+the Seignelay, commanded by Captain Aube, who is taking
+Monseigneur Elloi, the Roman Catholic Bishop of Samoa, a round
+of his diocese. Both are exceedingly pleasant, and have made
+themselves much liked here. The officers are a particularly gentlemanlike
+set. Judge of my amazement (accustomed to the rigid
+regulations of the English navy), when these, as one man, echoed
+an invitation given to me by the commander, to go for a cruise
+over half the South Seas, where they purpose touching at many
+isles, which I could by no possibility have any other chance of
+seeing. Several of these most kind friends had placed their cabins
+at the disposal of the captain, that he might offer me whichever
+he considered most suitable. For the first day or two after this
+invitation was made, we all treated it as a pleasant joke, never
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_2'>2</span>imagining that it could be quite in earnest; but when at length
+we all became convinced that it really was so, we agreed that there
+really could be no reason for refusing so rare a chance of an expedition,
+which will be to me most delightful.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So I am actually to embark this afternoon, Lady Gordon and
+dear little sailor Jack, and Captain Knollys, accompanying me on
+board, to see me fairly started.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This evening we sail for the Friendly Isles (Tonga), and thence
+proceed to the Navigator’s Isles (Samoa), where there have been
+serious disturbances, and where my friend Mrs Liardet, wife of the
+British Consul, has for some time had about thirty chiefs living in
+sanctuary in her house. I have long promised to visit her, should
+an opportunity arise, so this is an admirable one. I shall probably
+take a return passage thence in a German ship, and rejoin Lady
+Gordon at Loma Loma, a point in this group, about one hundred
+miles from here.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>My French friends urge my going on to Tahiti, the loveliest isle
+in the South Seas; but the utter uncertainty of how to get back
+thence, either here or to Tasmania, where Lady Gordon hopes to
+spend Christmas, makes me hesitate. If I could reach the Sandwich
+Isles, I should then be on the direct line of the Pacific mail-steamers;
+but Tahiti is utterly out of the world, and till the
+Seignelay arrives there, she will not receive her further orders, and
+may perhaps be sent to Valparaiso, which has no attractions for
+me. So my line of march is at present somewhat undecided. I
+think I shall almost certainly return here from Samoa; but as B.
+long ago said, of my wandering propensities, that I was just like a
+knotless thread, I may perhaps slip through, and you may hear of
+my vanishing into space!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This place is looking lovely. It has improved wonderfully in
+these two years, and has become so very homelike and pleasant,
+that I quite grudge leaving it, with even the vague feeling of uncertainty
+which attaches to any long journey; and though we all
+expect to return here, after a winter in Tasmania, still, so many
+contingencies may arise, that one always feels a home in the colonies
+to be a very insecure tenure.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span>Now I must finish my packing, which requires a good deal of
+consideration in case it <i>should</i> turn out that my locomotive demon
+urges me onward, and that I <i>do</i> visit the Hawaiian Isles, and then
+Tasmania, ere returning here.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I wish you could see my room here, now. It really is a museum—the
+walls covered with trophies of all the strange Fijian things
+I have collected during the last two years. I have just finished a
+series of about sixty studies of Fijian pottery, representing a hundred
+and fifty pieces, all different, and made without any wheel, by
+the wives of the poor fishermen. Some of the forms are most
+artistic, and the colour is very rich. No time for more. I will
+write next from Tonga.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER II.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR—CONVENT-LIFE IN TONGA—EARLY MARTYRS—WESLEYAN MISSION—ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION—CYCLOPEAN TOMBS AT MUA—GIGANTIC TRILITHON—FINES AND TAXES—KING GEORGE TUPOU.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On Board Le Seignelay, off Tongatabu</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Friday, 7th Sept. 1877</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dear Lady Gordon</span>,—I may as well begin a letter at once, in
+case of a chance of posting it by some stray ship, but as yet there
+is none even on the horizon.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Is it possible that it was only last Wednesday afternoon when
+you and Jack left me on board the Seignelay to try an entirely
+new experiment in ship-life—only three days since we ate our first
+<i>méringues</i> in that charming little dining-room, of which I now feel
+such a thoroughly old inhabitant? I can scarcely believe it.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Still more wonderful, is it scarcely a fortnight since I first met
+the amethystine bishop, and this extraordinarily kind captain, who
+both seem like real old friends, as do, indeed, all the people on
+board, from the officers and quartermasters, down to Antoine, the
+Italian <i>maître d’hôtel</i>, who takes me under his especial charge, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>is as careful as any old nurse? I know that if I were sick he
+would insist on coming to the rescue, but as yet he has not had
+the smallest chance of showing me such attentions; for though we
+had one really rough day, the ship is so very large and steady, that
+you scarcely perceive any motion. You did not half see her; she
+really is a noble vessel, and all her machinery is so beautifully
+kept—such a display of polished brass and steel—brighter than on
+most English men-of-war. Of course I have been duly lionised
+over every corner of her, and I think the most novel sight of all, is
+serving out rations, and seeing wine pumped up from huge vats, to
+fill the small barrels, each of which represents eight men’s daily
+allowance. What immense supplies must be laid in when such a
+ship starts on a long cruise! They are sufficiently startling on
+board such vessels as the Messageries Maritimes, where every soul
+on board drinks <i>vin ordinaire</i> at every meal, and where there is
+daily consumption of about two hundred bottles, and the store laid
+in at Marseilles has to suffice for the voyage to Yokohama, and
+back to Marseilles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The little cabin assigned to me is charming—so full of natty
+contrivances to make the most of space, and all so pretty. I
+believe that several of our kind friends on board have contributed
+to make it so. One lent a beautifully carved mirror, another a
+pin-cushion of pale-blue silk and lace. Fixed to the wall are
+fascinating flower-vases of black Chilian pottery, brought from
+Lima, and most delicate little <i>kava</i> bowls from the Wallis Isles,
+now utilised to hold soap, sponge, and matches. I find a whole
+chest of drawers empty, and various shelves, which I know can
+only have been cleared at great inconvenience. A small bookcase
+contains a very nice selection of French and English books—for
+my especial host, M. de Gironde, has travelled a good deal in England
+and in Scotland, and reads English well, as do several of the
+others. Having so generously given me his cabin, he has taken
+up his abode in the chart-room on the bridge, and declares he likes
+it far better; that it is much cooler, and that he never was so
+comfortable, &#38;c. In short (in common with all the others), he
+tries to make me really feel as if I were conferring a huge obligation
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span>on the whole party by having come. Never were there such
+hospitable people. I have had a good deal of spoiling in the course
+of my life, but I never had it in such perfection as now. Every
+creature on board is so cordial, that it would be quite impossible
+not to feel so in return. I think my French is improving! I can
+now distinguish the Brétons from the Provençals, and both from
+the Parisians.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The officers are a pleasant, well-informed set, who have travelled
+with their eyes open, and their relations with their fine old captain
+are those of cordial sons with a father. It would be difficult for
+any one accustomed to the rigid stiffness of the British navy to
+understand such a condition. Even the frank kindliness with
+which sub-officers and men are addressed, sounds to me as unusual
+as it is pleasant. Life on this ship seems that of a happy family,
+with the filial and paternal affections unusually well developed, and
+M. Aube is generally the centre of a cheery group, chatting unreservedly
+on whatever topic may arise.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At least two of the officers are daily invited to breakfast, and
+two others to dinner in the captain’s little cabin, all coming in their
+turn. And six or eight generally come in to evening tea, a ceremony
+which, I suspect, has been instituted specially out of deference
+to my supposed English habits. Besides the bishop and
+myself, M. Pinart is also the captain’s guest, and I find him pleasant
+and very ready to impart his information, which, as you know,
+is considerable, on all scientific matters. The others have little
+jokes at his expense, and declare that he is more of a Yankee than
+a Frenchman. I can only say the combination is good.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The feeding is excellent, beginning with early chocolate. Breakfast
+is at 9 o’clock, and ends with coffee and liqueurs, especially
+most delicious Chartreuse, which some of us in an irreverent
+whisper call “La meilleure œuvre des moines.” Dinner, with
+similar ending, is at 5 o’clock, and tea at 8. Antoine has orders
+to give me luncheon at 1, with due respect to English habits; but
+I find this quite superfluous; so that ceremony falls through. By
+the by, tell A. that his champagne-cup produced quite a sensation.
+It was generally set down as being <i>de l’hydromel</i>, and the greatest
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>curiosity prevails concerning its ingredients, which I, unfortunately,
+am not able to satisfy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We are now about 250 miles east of Fiji, and sighted land this
+afternoon; we have just anchored off Tonga, which certainly compares
+unfavourably with our beautiful Fijian isles. This is the
+dullest, flattest land I have yet seen—a low shore, fringed with
+long lines of cocoa-palm, which, seen from the sea, are singularly
+monotonous. The king’s town, Nukualofa, consists of a long row
+of more or less ugly villas, stores, and barracks, built of wood and
+painted white: one is bright-green. The houses are roofed with
+zinc or shingle, and the general effect is that of a new English
+watering-place. King George’s palace is a rather handsome
+wooden building like a hotel, and is reserved for his guests. The
+Government offices occupy another wooden building, and just
+beyond them is the printing-office, in which a few books, a magazine,
+and an almanac, are printed in the native tongue. A large
+Wesleyan church, painted white, and with a very small steeple,
+stands on a green hill on the site of an old fortification, and close
+to it is the house of Mr Baker, Wesleyan missionary.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>About a mile and a half along the shore is another village called
+Maofanga, where there is another Wesleyan church, but it is
+chiefly a Roman Catholic settlement; and near a neat thatched
+chapel of the true Tongan type, I see a long pleasant-looking
+bungalow, which I am told is a convent, the home of a society
+of French Sisters. To-morrow morning I hope to go ashore and
+see everything.</p>
+
+<hr class='c016'>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Saturday Night</i>,</div>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In my Cell, Convent of the Immaculate</span></div>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Conception, Maofanga</span>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>You see my experiences are rapidly enlarging. I have to-day
+made my very first acquaintance with conventual life, and am
+greatly interested by it, and by the exceedingly ladylike kind
+women who, at a hint from the bishop, invited me to stay with
+them as long as the ship is in harbour, and have given me this
+clean, tidy wee room, which, though not luxurious, is some degrees
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>more so than their own simple cells. I have a table, a chair, and
+a tiny bedstead.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There are only four Sisters. The eldest, Sister Anna, is a very
+old lady, but most courteous and friendly. Sœur Marie des Anges
+is a cosy middle-aged woman, who has lately come from the convent
+at Samoa to take care of Sœur Marie des Cinq Plaies, a
+sweet, pretty young woman, with a terrible cough, and evidently
+fast dying of consumption. The fourth sister, Sœur Marie-Jésu,
+is Irish. All are most gentle and kind, and seem deeply interested
+in their schools and the care of a large number of nice-looking
+women and children. I think myself most fortunate in having
+been invited to stay here, instead of finding quarters in the ugly,
+pretentious town of foreign houses, which, whatever advantages they
+may possess, are quite opposed to all our predilections in favour of
+native architecture.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The surroundings here are calm and quiet. Through a frame of
+tall palms, with ever-waving fronds, we look to the blue harbour,
+where the friendly big ship lies mirrored—a ship which, to these
+good Sisters, is a link to that dear home-land, <i>la belle France</i>,
+which they do so love, but to which they have bidden a long farewell,
+in devotion to their mission work in these far isles. The
+schoolroom is under the same roof, and full of bright intelligent
+girls. At sunset there were vespers in the church close by, and,
+as the delicate sister was ordered to stay at home, and do her part
+by ringing the Angelus, we sat together and listened to the singing,
+which was very good,—the Tongan rendering of Canticles and
+harmonised Litanies being excellent. The harmonium is played
+by Père Lamaze, who is a good musician. Another father, a fine
+old Bréton priest, is the architect of a handsome wooden church
+now in process of erection. (When the Seignelay touched at the
+Wallis Isles on their way to Fiji, the bishop consecrated a really
+very fine new church there; and as the Roman Catholic Mission in
+those isles is very strong, there seem to have been wonderful rejoicings
+on the occasion. Among the offerings of the people were
+150 pigs, which are being gradually consumed by the crew.)</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning, soon after breakfast, Captain Aube landed me,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>in charge of M. Berryer and M. Pinart, to explore the hideous
+town. The shore-reef is so wide that at low tide there is a broad
+expanse of slimy mud and sharp coral; so it was with some difficulty
+that we effected a landing, just below the king’s house,
+whence floated the flag of Tonga, which is red, with a white cross
+on one corner. King George has a guard of two hundred men,
+some of whom are arrayed in scarlet, and a detachment of these
+were on duty, expecting a formal visit from the captain and the
+bishop,—which, however, did not come off till the afternoon, when
+there was much saluting—twenty-one guns fired from the ship,
+and twenty-one returned.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We naturally made for the highest point of this very flat town—namely,
+the Wesleyan church, which, though it only stands about
+fifty feet above the sea, commands a good bird’s-eye view of its surroundings—thatched
+roofs just seen through luxuriant bread-fruit
+trees, cocoa-palms, and large-leaved bananas, with scarlet hybiscus
+and rosy oleanders to give an occasional touch of colour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Close to the church is the grave of the commander of an
+English man-of-war, who, forty years ago, allowed his valour to
+overcome his discretion, and himself led an armed force to assist
+the present King George in asserting his claim to the throne.
+In charging a stockade he and several of his men were killed, and
+an English gun was captured, which still lies at the village of Bea,
+about four miles from here.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another very sad memory clings to this place—namely, that of
+the barbarous massacre in the year 1799 of three of the very first
+missionaries who ever landed in the South Pacific. A party of
+ten men were sent to Tonga in 1796 by the London Mission, and
+for three years they contrived to hold their ground, till, on the
+breaking out of a civil war, three of their number were murdered,
+and the others were compelled to fly, and conceal themselves as
+best they could. On this occasion, as on almost every other when
+the lives of Christian teachers have been sacrificed, the action of
+the savages was distinctly due to the influence of wicked white
+men. The culprit at Tonga was an escaped English convict, who,
+having won the ear of the king, persuaded him that these men
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>were wizards, and that an epidemic, which was then raging, was
+due to their malignant sorceries. So, at the bidding of this
+scoundrel, the poor savages murdered their true friends.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>That any should have escaped was due to the most providential
+and unlooked-for arrival of a ship captured in the Spanish war
+and brought to Tahiti—whence a member of that mission undertook
+to navigate her to New South Wales, on condition she
+might call at Tongatabu, to see how it fared with his brethren in
+the Friendly Isles. Thus happily were the survivors rescued, and
+the mission abandoned, till the Wesleyans ventured to reoccupy
+the dangerous ground, with what success we well know, seeing
+that to the aid given by their Tongan converts was due much of
+their wonderful progress in Fiji. On the green hill of Nukualofa
+are the graves of those early martyrs, shadowed by dark, mournful
+casuarina trees.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Leaving the church, on the little grassy hill, we descended to
+the dead level, and passed long rows of thatched houses embowered
+in flowering shrubs, with banana and pine-apple gardens. These
+are the homes of the mission students and their families,—all
+very tidy, and with well-kept grass paths and green lawn all
+round.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All the native houses here are oval in form, having both ends
+rounded. They have the same deep thatch as the Fijian houses,
+generally of reeds or wild sugar-cane. The walls are of plaited
+cocoa-palm leaves or reeds interlaced. The houses have no stone
+foundation to raise them above the damp earth, and in many of the
+poorer huts the floors are merely strewn with dried grass instead of
+having neat mats, such as the poorest Fijian would possess. Only
+in the wealthier houses did we see coarse mats, made of pandanus.
+In the majority, however, there is an inner room screened off to
+form a separate sleeping corner; and we noticed that the Tongan
+pillow closely resembles that of Fiji, being merely a bit of bamboo
+supported by two legs. The cooking is generally done in a hut by
+itself, built over an oven in the ground; but a good many ovens
+are <i>al fresco</i>, and the daily yams, or the pig of high festivals, are
+baked quite in public.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>Mr Baker,<a id='r1'></a><a href='#f1' class='c017'><sup>[1]</sup></a> who is the head of the mission here, was absent, but
+we called on his wife, who received us kindly, and made me a
+present of a pretty Tongan basket and combs. She regretted that
+she could not offer to take me for a drive, her carriage having come
+to grief. There are all manner of vehicles here—wonderful in our
+eyes after having so long looked with reverence on the engineer’s
+wheel-barrow as the only wheeled conveyance in Fiji! There are
+also a number of horses, descendants of those left here by Captain
+Cook, <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 1777, which the Tongans ride at a hard gallop, with
+a tether rope round their necks in lieu of a bridle. Finding that
+Nukualofa was utterly lacking in picturesque incident (at least so
+it appeared to eyes satiated with Fijian beauty of scenery), we
+followed a broad grass path which runs along the shore and intersects
+the isle. Like everything else here, it is in apple-pie order.
+King George is too wise to waste the labour of his subjects, albeit
+convicts; so instead of useless stone-drill or treadmill, all Tongan
+criminals labour for the good of their brethren, eminently to the
+improvement of the isle. How often, in India and Ceylon, when
+unable to close my ears to the monotonous word of command of
+some police sergeant, “Take up—put down,” “Take up—put
+down,” I have watched the cruel waste of human strength expended
+on lifting a heavy stone, carrying it so many paces, and
+putting it down—and then doing the same thing again, and again,
+and again, in the stifling heat of a tropical sun! Would that our
+prison disciplinarians might borrow a hint of wisdom from this
+once savage Tongan king!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Following the pleasant path, beneath the shadow of greenest
+bananas, with the sunlight streaming in mellow gold through the
+tall palms far overhead, we reached the village of Maofanga, where
+we found the bishop at the house of the Fathers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Père Lamaze then brought me here to the good Sisters, who
+received me with open arms. The delicate one immediately slipped
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>out to do a little preliminary milking, that she might give me a cup
+of delicious fresh milk, and with it she brought me some lovely
+blossoms from the little garden in which the Sisters cultivate tall
+French lilies and a few other flowers to mingle with the abundant
+pink oleanders, in their church decorations.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After vespers, the day’s work being done, they came to my cell,
+and we all sat down on the mats and had a pleasant little gossip.
+I think that a breath from the outside wicked world cannot quite
+have lost all charm, and two at least of these ladies have evidently
+lived in good French society. Now they have gone to their cells,
+and there is not a sound in the quiet night. My door opens on to
+a verandah leading into the garden, and just beyond lies a peaceful
+burial-ground—neatly kept graves of Christian Tongans, some
+marked with simple crosses, and overgrown with flowers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now I must say good-night, as to-morrow will be a long day.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Monday 10th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>On Sunday morning I was awakened before dawn by hearing
+the Sisters astir. They were lighting their own tiny chapel, where,
+at sunrise, they had an early celebration, in order that they might
+not be obliged to remain fasting till the later service.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At 7.30 they brought me <i>café au lait</i> in my cell, and at 8 we
+went together to high Mass in the large native church. Of course
+there was a very full congregation, as, the better to impress the
+native mind, all the French sailors were paraded, to say nothing of
+all the officers, who, dressed in full uniform, were ranged in a semicircle
+inside the altar-rails, on show—a very trying position, especially
+to the excellent captain, who, though a thoroughly good man,
+would scarcely be selected as a very rigid Catholic. Indeed I cannot
+think that devotion to the Church is a marked characteristic of
+this mission-ship.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Accustomed only to see the good bishop in his ordinary garb of
+rusty black and faded purple, it was startling to see him assume the
+gorgeous Episcopal vestments of gold brocade with scarlet linings—the
+mitre, which was put off and on so frequently at different
+parts of the service, and all the other ecclesiastical symbols. The
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>friendly priests, too, were hard to recognise in their richly brocaded
+vestments; and I confess that to my irreverent eyes the predominance
+of yellow and scarlet, and a good many other things besides,
+forcibly recalled the last gorgeous ritualistic services I had witnessed
+in many Buddhist temples in Ceylon, and on the borders of Thibet.
+Such impressions tend to wandering thoughts, and mine, I fear, are
+apt to become rather “mixed.” Anyhow it was a relief when the
+scarlet and gold vestments were replaced by purple, with beautiful
+white lace. All the accessories were excellent. A native played
+the harmonium well, and Tongan <i>enfants de chœur</i> chanted the service
+admirably. Altogether the scenic effect was striking.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Chairs had been provided for all the foreigners present, and of
+course I sat with the Sisters, though it would have seemed more
+natural to curl up on a mat beside the native women, as we do in
+Fiji. These Catholic Tongans so far retain their former customs,
+that they continue to sit on the ground, although the polished
+wooden floor, which has replaced the soft grass and mats of old
+days, is not exactly a luxurious seat.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the Wesleyan churches, which are here built as much as
+possible on ugly foreign models, regular benches are the rule. I
+trust it will be long ere our simple and suitable churches in Fiji
+are replaced by buildings of that sort. I grieve to say that this is
+by no means the only point in which the natives here have departed
+from primitive custom. Not content with the noble work of utterly
+exterminating idolatry and cannibalism, the teachers in these isles
+are afflicted with an unwholesome belief in foreign garments, and
+by every means in their power encourage the adoption of European
+cloth and unbecoming dresses; consequently many of the Tongan
+men glory in full suits of black, while some of the girls appear
+in gaudy and vulgar hats, trimmed with artificial flowers. Imagine
+these surmounting a halo of spiral curls!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Is it not strange that this admirable mission, which has done
+such magnificent work in these isles, cannot be content to allow its
+Tongan converts the same liberty in outer matters as its wise representatives
+in Fiji allow their congregations? Here the “gold ring
+and goodly apparel” are promoted to the foremost stiff benches.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>There the distracting “care for raiment” is reduced to a minimum,
+and all the people kneel together devoutly, on the soft accustomed
+mats, in houses of the same type as their cool pleasant homes,
+without a thought that a building of a European type, with hard
+uncomfortable seats, and unbecoming foreign clothes, can render
+their prayer and praise more acceptable to their Father in heaven.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nothing astonishes me more, in reading any of the early missionary
+records of grand work done in these seas, than the frequent
+laudatory allusions to the general adoption by the converts of
+some fearful and wonderful head-dress, in imitation of the hideous
+bonnets of our grandmothers, and worn by the wives of the early
+missionaries. Immense praise was bestowed on the ingenious
+females who, under the direction of those excellent women, succeeded
+in manufacturing coal-scuttle bonnets of cocoa-palm leaves.
+Still more startling was the same monstrous form, when cunningly
+joined pieces of thin tortoise-shell were the materials used to
+imitate the brown silk bonnet of England! We may well rejoice
+that these horrors are no longer an integral feature of Christianity
+in the South Seas! It is sufficiently dreadful to see the ultra
+“respectable” classes donning coats, waistcoats, and trousers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Immediately after service I returned to luncheon on board, to
+be ready to start with Monseigneur Elloi for Mua, which is the
+principal Roman Catholic station here, distant about twelve miles.
+A large man-of-war boat with twelve rowers carried the bishop’s
+party, which consisted of two Fathers, and four of the ship’s
+officers. Several others got horses and rode across the isle. A
+party of Tongan students filled another boat. Wind, tide, and
+current being against us, the journey took three hours. It is a
+dreary coast, everywhere bound by a wide expanse of villanous
+shore-reef, which makes landing simply impossible. The approach
+to Mua is by a channel which seemed to me several miles long,
+and is like a river cut through the reef, which edges it on either
+side. Here we rowed against a sweeping current, and the men
+had hard work to make way.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On reaching Mua we found the riders awaiting us, and a great
+procession of priests, headed by Père Chevron, a fine grey-haired
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>old man, who has been toiling here for thirty-five years. Scarlet and
+white-robed acolytes and others, carried really handsome flags and
+banners. Their chanting was excellent. They escorted the bishop
+to the beautiful Tongan church, which is a building of purely native
+type, with heavy thatch, and all the posts, beams, and other timbers
+are fastened together without the use of a single nail. All are tied
+with strong vines from the forests, and plaited over with sennit—<i>i.e.</i>,
+string of divers fibres,—of hybiscus, cocoa-palm, pandanus, and
+other plants, ranging in colour through all shades of yellow, brown,
+and black. These are laid on in beautiful and most intricate patterns,
+and form a very effective and essentially Polynesian style of
+decoration. The altar, which is entirely of native manufacture,
+is really very fine. It is made of various island woods, inlaid
+with whales’-tooth ivory and mother-of-pearl. All the decorations
+in this church are in excellent taste, and bespeak most loving
+care. Here, as at Maofanga, comfort is sacrificed to appearance
+by the substitution of a polished wooden floor for the accustomed
+mats. I cannot say I think this an improvement, as it is a hard
+seat during a long service.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>However, on this occasion I did not experience its discomfort,
+for, shocking to say, in view of the example to the natives, none
+of us attended the service, but all went off at once, guided by M.
+Pinart (whose antiquarian instincts had already led him thither),
+to the tombs of the Toui Tongas, the old kings of Tonga. They
+are formed of gigantic blocks of volcanic rock, said to have been
+brought to these flat isles from the Wallis group. They are laid
+in three courses of straight lines, like cyclopean walls, and lie
+at intervals through the bush. They are much overgrown with
+tangled vegetation, especially with the widespreading roots of many
+banyan trees, and though wonderful, are not sketchable.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In olden days, when the Toui-Tonga was here laid to his rest,
+his favourite wife and most valued possessions were buried with
+him. All his subjects, young and old, male and female, shaved
+their heads and mourned for four months. Those engaged in preparing
+his sacred body for the grave were obliged to live apart for
+ten months, as being <i>tabu</i> or sacred.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>When the corpse had been deposited on this great burial-mound,
+all the men, women, and children assembled, and sat round in a
+great circle, bearing large torches made of dried palm-leaves. Six
+of the principal men then walked several times round and round
+the place of burial, in sunwise procession, waving the blazing
+torches on high; finally, these were extinguished and laid on the
+ground. Then all the people arose and made the sunwise circuit
+of the royal tombs, as has been done from the earliest days, by
+men of all nations and colours,<a id='r2'></a><a href='#f2' class='c017'><sup>[2]</sup></a> and then they, too, extinguished
+the emblematic torches, and laid them on the earth, in memory of
+him whose flame of life had passed away for ever from the poor
+dead clay. This ceremony was repeated on fourteen successive
+nights.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The mystery in all antiquities of this sort lies in the problem,
+how a race possessed only of stone adzes could possibly have
+hewn these huge blocks in the first instance, and how they then
+transported them on their frail canoes across wide distances of
+open sea. Tombs of the same character were common to all these
+groups, and were called <i>marais</i>. They combined the purpose of
+mausoleums of the chiefs, and of temples where human and other
+sacrifices were offered.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some of them were of gigantic dimensions. Captain Cook
+described one at Papara in Tahiti, which consisted of an immense
+pyramid, 267 feet long by 87 wide, standing on a pavement
+measuring 360 feet by 354. On its summit stood a wooden
+image of a bird, and a fish carved in stone, representing the creatures
+especially reverenced by that tribe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The pyramid was, in fact, a huge cairn of round pebbles, “which,
+from the regularity of their figure, seem to have been wrought.”
+It was faced with great blocks of white coral, neatly squared and
+polished, and laid in regular courses, forming eleven great steps,
+each of which was 4 feet high, so that the height of the pile was
+44 feet. Some of these stones were upwards of 3 feet in length
+and 2½ in width. The pavement on which the pyramid was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>built was of volcanic rock, also hewn into shape, some of the
+stones being even larger than the coral blocks, and all perfectly
+joined together, without mortar.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As Captain Cook found no trace of any quarry in the neighbourhood,
+he inferred that these blocks must have been carried from a
+considerable distance; and even the coral with which the pyramid
+was faced, lies at least three feet under the water. The question,
+therefore, which puzzled him, as it does us this day, was, how  did
+these savages, ignorant of all mechanical appliances, and possessing
+no iron tools, contrive to hew these wonderful <i>marais</i>, which
+were the temples and tombs of every Polynesian group? The
+majority were pulled to pieces by the natives when they abandoned
+idolatry, but happily for the antiquarian, some of the tombs
+of the mighty dead escaped these over-zealous reformers; and
+though the coral altars are no longer polluted by human blood,
+the grey ruins still remain, now overgrown by forest-trees, and
+more solemn in their desolation than when those hideous rites
+were practised by the poor savages at the bidding of ruthless
+priests.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the course of our walk we saw some lovely little pigeons,
+bright-green with purple head, and a number of larger ones, green
+and yellow. Also many small bats skimming about the cocoa-palms,
+darting to and fro in pursuit of the insects which make
+their home in the crown of the tree. Towards dusk a multitude
+of fruit-bats with soft fur appeared, flapping on heavy wing, and
+feeding on the flowers of various tall trees. We also noticed a
+number of tree swifts, reminding us forcibly of our own swallows:
+like them they skim airily about the houses, but instead of resting
+under the eaves, they seek a safer home in the tall palms.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Returning to the village, we lingered beneath the fine old trees
+known as Captain Cook’s, till summoned by the Fathers to supper
+at their house, which stands close to the church. They gave us
+the best they had,—namely, salt-junk and villanously cooked cabbage,
+whereat their naval guests secretly groaned, and bewailed the
+excellent <i>cuisine</i> they had left on board; but to these good ascetics
+such fare seemed too luxurious, so, although it was Sunday, and a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>great festival, they would taste nothing but a few slices of yam. I
+find them most interesting companions, having been so long in the
+isles, that they are familiar with all details of native manners and
+customs. The old Père Chevron is particularly pleasant. He has
+worked here for several years longer than our good old friend Père
+Bréhéret of Levuka, to whom he bade me send his loving greetings,
+which I hope you will deliver.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After supper with the Fathers, a kind Scotchwoman, Mrs Barnard,
+the only white woman in the place, came to take me to
+her house for the night, where she made me most comfortable,
+though I could not but fear that she and her husband had given
+me their own room. He is agent for a merchant’s house in the
+colonies. I found my hostess was a Cameron from Lochaber, who
+has retained her pure Gaelic tongue, and speaks both it and English
+with the sweet intonation ascribed to the Princess of Thule. Great
+was her delight when she learnt the real name of her guest, and
+many a pleasant reminiscence she had to tell of certain of my own
+nearest kindred.... We talked of mutual friends in the dear
+old north and on the west coast, and many a touching memory was
+reawakened for us both. Verily the ends of the world are bound
+by tender human links!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>My hostess was herself astir long before dawn, to prepare breakfast
+for her countrywoman, as I was to make an early expedition
+with my French friends to Haamonga, distant about eight miles, to
+see a wonderful trilithon. The Fathers lent us their dogcart, but
+had no horse. However, they succeeded in borrowing one, which
+M. Pinart volunteered to drive. It proved a brisk trotter, and we
+sped along cheerily. Most of the others rode, escorted by two
+<i>kanaques</i>—a word which, though it simply means “a man,” is used
+by the French as a generic term for all manner of islanders in
+North and South Pacific.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was a lovely morning and a delightful drive, over a good
+broad grass road—the bush on either side fragrant with jessamine,
+and the trees in many places matted with such tangles of large,
+brilliantly blue convolvulus as I have seen nowhere else but in the
+Himalayas. The lilac marine ipomæa abounds everywhere, and we
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>passed dense masses of the large-leaved white sort. From these
+lovely hiding-places flashed green pigeons and blue kingfishers,
+startled by our approach. Tall sugar-cane, wild ginger with scarlet
+blossom, and blue clitoria, with here and there a clump of glossy
+bananas or quaint papawa, kept up the tropical character of the
+vegetation.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We had no difficulty in finding the great dolmen of which we
+were in search. It stands on a grassy lawn, surrounded by bush,
+and is certainly a remarkable object. It differs from all other
+trilithons I have seen or heard of, in that the two supporting
+pillars are cut out at the top to secure the transverse capstone,
+which is hewn.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The height above ground is 15 feet, length 18 feet, and the
+width 12 feet. Nothing whatever is known concerning its origin,
+and the natives have apparently no tradition concerning it.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is the only rude stone monument I have seen in the Pacific,
+but I am told that others have been observed in different groups,
+though on a smaller scale; for instance, in the Society Isles, where
+the great altar of the principal <i>marai</i> on Huahine is a large slab of
+unhewn stone, resting on three boulders. Around it are the rock-terraces
+which formed the rude temple.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Haamonga the cyclopean trilithon stands alone. All others
+known to us, such as those at Stonehenge, at Tripoli, Algeria, and
+in Central America, are found in connection with circles of huge
+stones, to which they have apparently been the gateway; but here
+there does not appear to have been any circle, not even a detached
+dolmen.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In its weird solitude it most resembles the cromlech of Byjnath
+in Bengal; but what may be its story none can possibly guess.
+One thing only is certain, that these grey stones were brought here
+by some long-forgotten race, who little dreamt, when they raised
+this ponderous monument, that a day would come when <i>it</i> should
+survive as the sole proof that <i>they</i> ever existed.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/p0181_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>TRILITHON ON TONGATABU<br>  <br>  FRIENDLY ISLES.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have been told that within the memory of persons now
+living, an enormous <i>kava</i> bowl stood on the horizontal stone, and
+that most solemn and sacred drinking festivals were held here. It
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>is very probable that this may have been the case, as the people
+would, in heathen days, very naturally retain some tradition of
+reverence for the trilithon, as the peasants of Brittany, and, I may
+say, of Britain, do for similar erections to the present day, assembling
+for annual festivals at “the stones,” though the origin
+of Carnac, Stonehenge, and Stennis, is as unknown as that of
+Haamonga.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Returning to the village we saw that the church was crowded,
+and that there were a number of candidates for confirmation.
+Judging that the service would occupy some time, and being
+anxious to see as much of the neighbourhood as possible, we drove
+along the coast to a particularly fine banyan, noted in Captain
+Cook’s chart, and beneath its shadow we rested awhile, and enjoyed
+a very pleasant half-hour overlooking a calm, beautiful sea.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We reached Mua just as the congregation was dispersing, and
+were troubled with some qualms on the score of our bad example,
+but the considerate bishop gave us full absolution. I regret to say
+that a considerable proportion of the people were like hideously-dressed-up
+apes, masculine and feminine—many of the former in
+seedy black clothes, and some of the latter attired in gay flimsy
+silk gowns, inflated with large crinolines, and with baby hats,
+trimmed with pink and blue flowers, stuck on the top of their
+fuzzy heads. Hitherto, as you know, my ideas of Tongans have
+been derived only from the stately men and women who have
+settled in Fiji, and there, like their neighbours, have retained the
+graceful drapery of native cloth. Here the influence of certain
+persons interested in trade is so strong, that the manufacture of
+<i>tappa</i> is discouraged by every possible means; and a heavy penalty
+attaches to making it on any, except one, day in the week. It
+seems that this law was passed in King George’s absence, and I am
+happy to learn that he was exceedingly angry—though, as yet, the
+law stands unrepealed, and the manufacture is doomed to cease
+altogether this year.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Whoever is to blame, the system of taxation and fines is something
+astounding. A woman who is found without a pinafore,
+even in her own house, is fined two dollars, no matter how ample
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>is her petticoat. Should she venture beyond her threshold minus
+this garment, she is liable to a fine of three dollars. If caught
+smoking, she is fined two and a half dollars, and one and a half
+dollar costs. Imagine such legislation for a people whose highest
+proof of reverence in olden days was to strip themselves to the
+waist in presence of their king, or on approaching a sacred spot,
+and who still consider any upper garment as altogether superfluous—a
+people, moreover, whose very nature it is to be for ever rolling
+up minute cigarettes for themselves and their friends!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The most atrocious of all the regulations is one inflicting a fine
+of ten dollars on any man found without a shirt, though wearing
+such a <i>sulu</i> (kilt) as would in Fiji be considered full dress, either
+at church or Government House. One of the lads told us he had
+actually been made to pay this fine a few days ago, having put off
+his shirt while fishing. Wet or dry they must wear the unaccustomed
+foreign clothing, instead of the former coating of oil, which
+made these people as impervious to water as so many ducks. But
+whether by compulsion or for vainglory, the hideous foreign clothes
+are worn during the burning heat of the day; then, under the
+friendly veil of night, comfort and economy are consulted by dispensing
+with superfluous garments; and so the heavy night-dews
+act with double power, and chills produce violent coughs, which
+too often end in consumption and death.<a id='r3'></a><a href='#f3' class='c017'><sup>[3]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>These people, like most kindred races when brought in contact
+with civilisation, are fast dying out. I believe there are now only
+about 9000 in the Tongan group, 5000 on Happai, and 5000 in
+Vavau district. They certainly are a very fine well-built race,
+with clear yellowish-brown skin and Spanish colouring; they also
+resemble Spaniards or Italians in their animation of expression,—the
+muscles of the forehead working in a most remarkable manner,
+especially to express wonder or interest. They have fine faces,
+well-developed forehead, strong chin, and features generally like
+those of an average good-looking European. Not the slightest
+approach to the “blubber lips and monkey faces” of negro races,
+or of the isles lying nearer to the equator. On the contrary, the
+mouth is well formed, and shows beautiful teeth. The eyes are
+invariably dark brown, generally large and clear. The beard,
+moustaches, and eyebrows are allowed to retain their natural glossy
+black; but, as in Fiji, the hair is dyed of a light sienna by frequent
+washing in coral-lime, and encircles the head with a yellow
+halo, strangely in contrast with the dark eyes and eyebrows. Like
+that of the Papuan, rather than the pure Polynesian races, it takes
+the form of a mop of innumerable very fine spiral curls, of which
+each individual hair twists itself into a tight corkscrew. It is crisp
+and glossy, and very elastic; and if you draw it out full length, it
+at once springs back to its natural form. Some of the women now
+allow their hair to grow quite long. Both men and women march
+along with a proud overbearing gait that always gives one an impression
+that they look on all other races with something of contempt.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>Our morning’s work had given us such keen appetites that we
+did more than justice to the breakfast which awaited us at the
+Fathers’ house, though it must be confessed that the fare was of
+the coarsest; it was, however, the very best they had to offer, and
+was evidently considered quite a feast. My comrades congratulated
+one another that such viands did not often fall to their lot!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Immediately after breakfast we started on our return journey
+with a high tide. Wind and current being in our favour, we flew
+down the river-like passage through the wide coral-reef, which we
+had ascended with such toil, and less than two hours brought us
+back to the good ship, and to cordial greeting from her genial
+captain. He had invited King George of Tonga and his grandson
+to dine on board, to meet the bishop and the Fathers, and I was
+invited to join the party. The king, who ought properly to be
+called Tupou or Toubo, which is the surname of all the royal
+family, was received with a salute of twenty-one guns—the ship
+dressed and yards manned, with sailors shouting “Vive la République!”
+(an institution to which, I fancy, that most men on
+board are profoundly indifferent—in fact several are declared
+royalists, and faithful adherents of Henri V.)</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Tongans were duly conducted all over the ship, and examined
+machinery, guns, men’s quarters, and every detail, with
+apparent interest. A long dinner followed, from which I escaped
+as soon as I conveniently could.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The king is a very fine old man, in height about 6 feet 2 inches.
+He was dressed in a general’s full uniform, and his grandson in
+that of an aide-de-camp—cocked-hat, &#38;c. I confess I think that
+Thakombau and Maafu, in their drapery of Fijian <i>tappa</i>, are far
+more imposing figures. The king’s son, Unga, is at present seriously
+ill. His three sons govern the three groups into which
+this island-kingdom of Tonga divides itself—namely, Tongatabu,
+Happai, and Vavau. There are only about sixty isles in all, and
+their area is about 600 square miles; so this is a small matter
+compared with the 7000 square miles of Fiji. I am told that
+here the land all belongs to the king, so that any one wishing to
+settle can only do so as a tenant, leasing land from his Majesty.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>The feast being over, <i>le Roi kanaque</i> departed amid blue and
+green lights, one of which was reserved for us—<i>i.e.</i>, the ecclesiastical
+party—returning to the priest’s house and to the convent,
+where the pleasant Sisters awaited me with kindest welcome; and
+we all sat on the mats in my cell and chatted for a while.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now I am so very cold that I must go to bed. I think this
+climate must be far more trying than that of Fiji. The heat in
+the daytime feels to me greater, and every night is bitterly cold,
+necessitating piles of rugs and blankets; while the dew is so
+drenching that the roofs always drip as if there had been heavy
+rain. I do not wonder at the delicate little Sœur Marie having
+fallen into consumption. It carries off many strong natives.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Tuesday Night.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Wasn’t it just cold when I left off writing! I lay awake shivering
+for two hours, though wrapped up in blanket, cloak, and big
+tartan plaid. I find that the island of Tongatabu is known all
+over the group as the cold isle, and I am ready to endorse the
+title.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I devoted this forenoon to a sketch of this hospitable cottage-convent,
+and in the afternoon went alone to see Mrs Baker, who
+took me to visit the queen—a fine old lady, but very helpless,
+having dislocated her hip by a fall eight years ago. She was
+sitting on the bare boards in a wretched little room of a small
+house close to the large villa or palace in which King George
+receives his guests, but in which he never lives, preferring that his
+home should be <i>faka-Tonga</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, adhering to native customs so
+far as is consistent with keeping up appearances. But here, again,
+we were struck by the uncomfortable substitution of a hard wooden
+floor for the soft mats of a truly native home. As civilised houses
+are glazed, the poor old queen, though much oppressed with heat,
+sat beside a glass window, shaded by a filthy tattered rag which
+had once been a curtain, but which in its palmiest days had been
+immeasurably inferior to a handsome drapery of native cloth: indeed
+the only symptom of comfort in the place was a curtain
+of Fijian <i>tappa</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>The king and his chiefs were in council over church matters in
+a small room adjoining the queen’s, so we had to talk in whispers.
+Various female relations were grouped round the door, making the
+hot room still hotter. I am much struck by the fact that these
+proud Tongans make use of no titles. The Fijians always prefix
+the word <i>Andi</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, Lady—to the name of a woman of rank;
+but here the name is used bluntly, whether in addressing a princess
+or her handmaid.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Hearing of the grave assembly of the chiefs to discuss the affairs
+of the Wesleyan Church, brought back vividly to my mind all
+that I had heard in former days of this very King George, and of
+the prominent part taken by him in rousing these islanders to
+abandon their gross heathenism and cannibalism. So effectual has
+been his work, that now not one trace of these old evils remains,
+and these islanders are looked upon as old-established Christians.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I had a pleasant walk back in the twilight, along the broad
+grass road which runs parallel with the sea, and am now spending
+my last evening in this peaceful convent. I am truly sorry that
+it is the last, for it will feel like leaving real friends to part from
+these kind Sisters, who make much of me, and do enjoy coming to
+sit with me in the evenings for a little quiet chat. They bring all
+my meals in here, as it is against their rules to allow me to feed
+with them in the refectory. In this respect they are far more
+rigorous than the Fathers, who, as you know, have invited me to
+supper and breakfast at their house.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER III.<br> <span class='c009'>SAIL FROM TONGA TO VAVAU—VOLCANO OF TOFUA—WESLEYAN MISSION—TWO THOUSAND MILES FROM A DOCTOR—ORANGE-GROVES—A LOVELY SEA LAKE—CORAL CAVES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>On Board Le Seignelay</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 12th September 1877</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here I am once more safely ensconced in my favourite niche,
+which is the carriage of a big gun. Filled with red cushions, it
+makes a capital sofa, and is a cosy, quiet corner, and a capital
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>point of observation, whence, without being in the way, I can
+look down on the various manœuvres on deck—parades, gun practice,
+fire-parade, and so forth. We embarked this morning
+early, the four Sisters, by special sanction of the bishop, coming
+to see the last of me, and to breakfast with M. Aube;—an outrageous
+piece of dissipation, they said, but almost like once again
+setting foot in France. Four of the priests likewise escorted the
+bishop, and we had an exceedingly cheerful ecclesiastical breakfast-party,
+after which came a sorrowful parting, and then we sailed
+away from Tonga, taking with us the Père Padel, a fine old
+Bréton Father.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We are now passing through the Happai group, and hope to-night
+to catch a glimpse of the volcano of Tofua, or, as it is also
+called by the natives, <i>Coe afi a Devolo</i> (the Devil’s fire). It is a
+perfect volcanic cone 2500 feet in height, densely wooded to the
+edge of the crater. Strange to say, though the isle simply consists
+of this one active volcano, there is said to be a lake on the
+summit of the mountain. It is not stated to be a geyser; but the
+Tongans who visit it bring back small black pebbles, which they
+strew on the graves of their dead.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Happai group consists of about forty small isles, some
+purely volcanic, and others, as usual, combining coral on a volcanic
+foundation. About twenty of these are inhabited.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Neiafu, Vavau</span>, <i>Thursday Evening</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The volcano proved to be quiescent. Not even a curl of
+luminous smoke betrayed its character. The sea, however, made
+amends by the brilliancy of its phosphoric lights. It was a dead
+calm, and from beneath the surface shone a soft mellow glow,
+caused, I am told, by vast shoals of living creatures, as though the
+mermaids were holding revel beneath the waves, and had summoned
+all their luminous subjects to join in the dance. I know
+few things in nature more fascinating than this lovely fairy-like
+illumination. Its tremulous glow and occasional brilliant shooting
+flashes are to me always suggestive of our own northern lights—a
+sort of marine aurora.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>Our course this morning was very pretty, steaming for many
+miles through narrow and intricate passages between the richly
+wooded headlands of Vavau, the great island, and many outlying
+islets. Finally, we anchored in what seemed like a quiet landlocked
+lake, at the village of Neiafu.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The bishop went ashore at once, and was reverently welcomed
+by two priests, one of whom, Père Bréton, has been here for about
+thirty years, living a life so ascetic as to amaze even his brethren,
+so completely does mind appear to have triumphed over matter.
+We sinners all agree that having each been intrusted with the
+care of an excellent animal, we are only doing our duty by feeding
+and otherwise caring for it to the best of our ability. So the
+ascetic example is one which we reverence, but have no intention
+of following, cold water and yam, day after day, being truly uninviting.
+But the old man has not forgotten how to be genial and
+kind to others, and is a general favourite.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Roman Catholic flock here is small, as is also the church,
+which, however, is very neat. The Wesleyan Mission flourishes
+here, as it does throughout these Friendly Isles. In the three
+groups—namely, Tonga, Happai, and Vavau, it has 125 chapels,
+with an average attendance of 19,000 persons, of whom 8000 are
+church members. Four white missionaries superintend the work
+of 13 native ministers, upwards of 100 schoolmasters, and above
+150 local preachers. At the Tubou Theological College—so named
+in honour of King George Tubou—there are about 100 students
+preparing for work as teachers or pastors.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I landed with M. Pinart, and a half-caste Samoan woman, who
+could talk some English, acted as our interpreter with the widow
+of the late “governor,” a large comely woman, who invited us to
+her cool Tongan house, where friendly, pleasant-looking girls peeled
+delicious oranges faster than we could eat them. This whole village
+and district is one orange-grove; every house is embowered in large
+orange-trees—the earth is strewn with their fruit, the air fragrant.
+What an enchanting change after Tonga, where there are no orange-trees,
+and where a sense of stiffness and over-regulation seemed to
+pervade life!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>The present “governor” is a fine tall young chief, rejoicing in
+the name of Wellington. He is acting for his father, Unga, King
+George’s illegitimate son, whom he has declared heir to the throne,
+but who is at present in very bad health. The young chief seems
+inclined to hold the reins firmly and well. But at present the
+Vavau chiefs are in some disgrace with King George, as they are
+suspected of plotting against Unga, in favour of Maafu.<a id='r4'></a><a href='#f4' class='c017'><sup>[4]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Having eaten oranges to our hearts’ content, we continued our
+walk to the Wesleyan Mission, and on our way thither met the
+Rev. —— Fox on his way to the ship, to see if we had a doctor
+on board. The latter having already gone ashore, we returned
+together to the house—a quiet pleasant home, but for the present
+saddened by the serious illness of the young wife, who, a few
+weeks ago, gave birth to her first child. As Vavau can furnish
+neither nurse nor doctor, the wife of the missionary in Happai had,
+at great personal inconvenience, come thence in an open canoe to
+officiate on the occasion. She had, however, been compelled to
+return soon afterwards to her own nurslings, leaving the young
+mother and her baby in charge of native women. A very slow
+recovery, accompanied with some unfavourable symptoms, had produced
+such depression and alarm, that just before our arrival, the
+poor husband had actually been making arrangements for his wife’s
+return to Sydney for proper medical care. But, to get there, involved,
+in the first instance, a journey of about 200 miles in an
+open canoe to reach Tonga, whence she would have to proceed
+alone, in a wretched little sailing vessel, on a voyage of upwards of
+2000 miles (as the crow flies)—a serious undertaking for a woman
+in robust health, but a terrible prospect for an invalid with a young
+baby.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Happily the timely arrival of the Seignelay dispelled this nightmare.
+M. Thoulon, the good kind doctor (himself <i>père de famille</i>),
+at once vetoed the rash arrangement, and his well-applied wisdom,
+and kind encouraging words, have already restored heart to the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>dispirited young wife; while a congenial talk with M. Pinart on
+the subject of Polynesian dialects and races, has helped to cheer
+the husband, who, later, took us to see his schools, pleasantly
+situated on a wooded hill, commanding a lovely view of the landlocked
+harbour. Then strolling back through the orange-groves,
+we returned on board, where I am now writing. The captain and
+several of the officers have gone off duck-shooting, and expect good
+sport.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Saturday Evening.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yesterday morning, after a very early breakfast, I went ashore
+at 6.30 with M. Pinart and Dr Thoulon. Mr Fox was waiting
+at the pier, and returned with us to the mission-house, where we
+found the patient already on the mend. I acted the part of interpreter
+for the doctor, who was happily able to supply, as well as
+prescribe, all needful remedies and tonics. So when we returned
+this afternoon to say good-bye, the young mother looked like a
+different creature—so bright and happy. Truly a blessed skill is
+that of the kindly leech!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The previous evening Mr Fox had undertaken to borrow some
+horses, and escort us to the summit of “The Pudding,” a wooded
+hill, commanding a splendid map-like view of the strangely intersected
+land and water on every side of us. The isles lie so close,
+one to the other, that we could scarcely believe we were looking on
+the ocean, and not rather on a network of clear calm lakes and
+rivers. All the isles appear to be densely wooded, but at intervals
+along the shore we could distinguish villages nestling among the
+trees. One small island has recently been ceded to the Germans
+as a coaling station, and there seems some reason for anxiety lest
+this small foothold should be taken further advantage of.</p>
+<div  class='figcenter id003'>
+<img src='images/p0282_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>A CORAL CAVE.  VAVAU.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our ride in the early morning was exceedingly pleasant. I had
+insured my own comfort by bringing my side-saddle ashore. By
+some mistake we found that the stirrup had been left in Fiji; but
+happily, on such a ship as this, to want a thing is to have it, and I
+hear that a new stirrup and strap are to be ready for me ere we
+reach Samoa. On the summit of the hill we found breakfast all
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>ready, a party of natives from the mission having made an early
+start with tea, yams, ham and eggs—all of which had been cooked
+gipsy-fashion. To this foundation we added the contents of a
+hamper, which the thoughtful captain had directed his <i>maître
+d’hôtel</i> to send with us. So we had a royal feast, and then I
+settled down to do a bird’s-eye sketch of the strange world outspread
+below, while gentle and rather pretty brown girls, with
+sienna hair, sat by, peeling oranges by the dozen, with which they
+fed us all incessantly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is the part of true hospitality to peel oranges for a guest, as
+their thick green skins contain so much essential oil, that the mere
+act of removing them makes the hands very oily and uncomfortable.
+Woe betide the rash and thirsty stranger who puts the green fruit
+to his lips to suck it, as he might a golden orange in Europe. For
+many hours the burning pain of almost blistered lips will remind
+him of his folly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Returning to the village, we found a large ten-oared boat waiting
+for us, the captain having most kindly placed it at our disposal, to
+enable us to explore the coast. Mr Fox guided us to a truly
+exquisite cave, about five miles distant. Never before, in all my
+wanderings, had my eyes been gladdened by such an ideal fairy
+grot. We rowed along the face of beautiful crags, which we had
+passed on the previous day without a suspicion of the wonderful
+hiding-place within them. Suddenly we steered right into a narrow
+opening, and found ourselves in a great vaulted cavern like a grand
+cathedral—a coral cave, with huge white stalactites hanging in
+clusters from the roof, and forming a perfect gallery along one side,
+from which we could almost fancy that white-veiled nuns were
+looking down on us.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The great outer cave is paved with lapis-lazuli, at least with
+water of the purest ultra-marine, which was reflected in rippling
+shimmers of blue and green on the white marble roof. For the
+sun was lowering, and shone in glory through the western archway,
+lighting up the mysterious depths of a great inner cavern,
+which otherwise receives but one ray of light from a small opening
+far overhead, through which we saw blue sky and green leaves.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>No scene-painter could have devised so romantic a picture for any
+fairy pantomime. The French sailors were ecstatic in their delight.
+They collected piles of old cocoa-nut fibre and dry palm-leaves and
+kindled bright blazing fires, whose ruddy light glowed on the dark
+crevices, which even the setting sun could not reach, and blended
+with the blue and green reflected lights, and both played on the
+white coral walls, and the white boat, and white figures—(for of
+course, in the tropics, the sailors all wear their white suits). Soon
+these active lads contrived to reach the gallery, and glided behind
+the stalactite pillars, making the illusion of the nuns’ gallery still
+more perfect. Altogether it was a scene of dream-like loveliness.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All this coast is cavernous, and most tempting to explore.
+Very near my fairy cave lies the one described by Byron, in “The
+Island,” which can only be reached by diving—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in20'>“A spacious cave</div>
+      <div class='line'>Whose only portal is the keyless wave</div>
+      <div class='line'>(A hollow archway by the sun unseen</div>
+      <div class='line'>Save through the billow’s glassy veil of green).”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c019'>A huge rock, about 60 feet high, rises from the sea, with nothing
+to indicate that it is hollow; but at a considerable depth beneath
+low-water mark, there is an opening in the rock through which
+expert divers can enter, and find themselves in a cave about 40
+feet wide and 40 in height—the roof forming rude Gothic arches
+of very rich and varied colour, and the whole incrusted with
+stalactites. The clear green water forms the crystal pavement, but
+two lesser caves, branching off on either side, afford a dry resting-place
+to such as here seek a temporary refuge. The place is quite
+unique in its surpassing loveliness; and the brilliant phosphoric
+lights which gleam with every movement of the water, and which
+are reflected in pale tremulous rays, that seem to trickle from the
+stalactites and lose themselves among the high arches, give to the
+whole a weird ghostly effect, quite realising all one’s fancies of a
+spirit-world.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This home of the mermaids was first discovered by a young
+Tongan, who was diving in pursuit of a wounded turtle. Filled
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>with wonder and delight, he lingered a few moments in admiration,
+then, recollecting how valuable such a hiding-place might prove in
+days of ceaseless intertribal war, he determined to keep his own
+counsel. So when he returned to the surface he held his peace,
+and all his companions were filled with wonder and admiration at
+the length of time he could remain under water.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Not very long after this, his family incurred the anger of the
+great chief of Vavau, and one and all were disgraced, and in
+continual danger of their lives. But the chief had a beautiful
+daughter, who loved this bold young islesman, and though under
+any circumstances he was of too lowly birth to dare to claim her
+openly in marriage, he persuaded her to forsake her father’s house
+and come to that which he had prepared for her in the romantic
+grotto.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here she remained hidden for several months, only venturing to
+swim to the upper world in the starlight, and ever on the alert to
+dive to her hiding-place on the slightest alarm. Of course her
+simple bathing-dress of cocoa-nut oil and garlands did not suffer
+much from salt water; or if it did, trails of sea-weed quickly supplied
+fresh clothing. Her love brought constant supplies of fruit,
+to add to the fish which she herself provided: and so the happy
+weeks flew by, till at last the companions of the young man began
+to wonder why he left them so often, to go away all by himself,
+and especially they marvelled that he invariably returned with wet
+hair—(for the Tongans have the same aversion as the Fijians to
+wetting their hair, and rarely do so without good cause). So at
+length they tracked him, and saw that when his canoe reached the
+spot where he had stayed so long under water in pursuit of the
+turtle, he again plunged into the green depths, and there remained.
+They waited till he had returned to the land, suspecting no danger.
+Then they dived beside the great rock-mass, which seemed so solid,
+though it was but the crust of a huge bubble—and soon they too
+discovered the opening, through which they swam, and rising to the
+surface beheld the beautiful daughter of the chief, who had been
+mourned as one dead. So they carried her back to her indignant
+father—but what became of her hapless lover history does not
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>record. Doubtless he was offered in sacrifice to the gods of
+Vavau.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We peered down through the crystal waters to see whether we
+could discern the entrance to the lover’s cave, but failed to do so.
+Except at very low tide, it is difficult for average swimmers to dive
+so low. We only heard of two Englishmen who had succeeded.
+One was the early traveller, Mariner, who was present at a <i>kava</i>-drinking
+party of the chiefs in this cool grot; the other was the
+captain of an English man-of-war, who, in passing through the low
+rock archway, injured his back so seriously, that the people of
+Vavau believed him to have died in consequence.<a id='r5'></a><a href='#f5' class='c017'><sup>[5]</sup></a> It appears
+that the passage into the cave bristles with sharp projecting points,
+and it is exceedingly difficult to avoid striking against them. A
+native having dived to the entrance then turns on his back, and
+uses his hands as buffers to keep himself off the rocky roof.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our row back to Neiafu was most lovely—sea, isles, and sky,
+vegetation and cliffs, all glorified in the light of the setting sun.
+As we were returning to shore, to land Mr Fox, Captain Aube
+hailed us, and bade us invite him to dinner with him. I thought
+this very courteous, as of course, on such an essentially Roman
+Catholic mission as this, there is just a little natural feeling that it
+may not be discreet to show too much honour to the Protestant
+minister, who, however, met with a most cordial reception, and we
+had a very pleasant evening.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning I was invited to accompany a party who started at
+daybreak to shoot wild duck on a pretty lake at some distance; but
+as I had the option of returning to the grotto, I chose the latter.
+So the captain again lent me the ten-oared boat, and we made another
+pleasant party to the beautiful cave: but it lost much of its beauty
+by being seen in the cold shadow of early morning, instead of being
+illumined by the level rays of the evening sun. We repeated the
+palm-leaf bonfires, but felt that we were not exhibiting our discovery
+to the best advantage. However, I got a sketch, which has
+the one merit of being totally unlike anything else I ever attempted.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned too late for breakfast in the captain’s cabin, so had
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>a cheery little party in the ward-room, then went ashore to say
+good-bye to our friends, and carry away last impressions of the
+fragrant orange-groves of Vavau. Then the bishop and the Fathers
+returned on board, and we sailed away from the Friendly Isles.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER IV.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE ON BOARD SHIP—THE WALLIS ISLES—FOTUNA—SUNDAY ISLE—CYCLOPEAN REMAINS ON EASTER ISLE—STONE ADZES—SAMOA—PANGO-PANGO HARBOUR.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>From my Sofa in the Gun-carriage,</span></div>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>on Board the Seignelay</span>, <i>Sunday, 16th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>My dear Nell</span>,—I have asked Lady Gordon to send you a long
+letter to her, which I hope to post at Apia, so that I need not
+repeat what I have already written. We are having a most
+delightful cruise, with everything in our favour, and the kindness
+of every one on board is not to be told.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To begin with, Monseigneur Elloi, Evêque de Tipara, is a host
+in himself, so genial and pleasant, and so devoted to his brown
+flock. He is terribly unhappy about all the fighting in Samoa;
+and I think the incessant wear and tear of mind and body he has
+undergone, in going from isle to isle, perpetually striving for peace,
+has greatly tended to break down his own health, for he is now
+very far from well, and every day that we touch land, and he has
+to officiate at a long church service, he is utterly exhausted. It is
+high time he returned to France, as he hopes to do, at the end of
+this cruise.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>His title puzzled us much when he arrived in Fiji, as we supposed
+him to be Bishop of Samoa. But it seems that a Roman
+Catholic bishop cannot bear the title of a country supposed to be
+semi-heathen, so they adopt that of one of the ancient African
+churches, which are now virtually extinct.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-day, being Sunday, the bishop called together as many of the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>sailors as wished to attend, and held “a conference”—which meant
+that he sat on deck, and they sat or stood all round, quite at their
+ease, no officers being present, while he gave them a very nice winning
+little talk, ending with a few words of prayer. There was
+no regular service. There is always a tiny form of morning and
+evening prayer, said on parade by one of the youngest sailors,
+which is very nice theoretically, but is practically <i>nil</i>. At the
+word of command, Prière, a young lad, rapidly repeats the <i>Ave
+Maria</i> and <i>Nôtre Père qui êtes aux cieux</i>; he gabbles it over at
+railroad speed in less than a minute; then, as an amen, comes the
+next thing, <i>Punitions</i>, followed by a list of the various little trespasses
+of the day, and the penalties awarded.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At each point where the vessel has touched, she has taken or
+left some of the French priests, many of whom have been working
+in these isles for so many years, that they know every detail concerning
+them, and are consequently very pleasant companions.
+One of my especial friends is a dear old Père Padel, a cheery
+Bréton, who has been working in the Wallis group for many years,
+with the happy result of seeing its savages converted to most
+devout Catholics. He is now going to Samoa.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Much of the charm of this voyage is due to the kindly, pleasant
+relations existing between the captain and all his officers, from the
+least to the greatest—all are so perfectly at ease, while so thoroughly
+respectful. They are all counting the hours for their return to
+<i>la belle France</i>, where several have left wife and family; and their
+two years’ absence apparently seems longer to them than the four
+years of our English ships would seem to be to less demonstrative
+Britons.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nothing astonishes me more than the freedom of religious discussion
+on every side. Of course to the bishop and the numerous
+<i>pères</i>, personally, every one is most friendly and respectful, as well
+they may be; but as a matter of individual faith, <i>c’est toute autre
+chose</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The evening tea-parties in the captain’s cabin are particularly
+pleasant. Very often the conversation turns on some literary
+question, and then, from the ample library, are produced books
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>from which M. le Commandant reads illustrations of prose or
+poetry. He is himself literary, and writes very well, in the
+‘<span lang="fr">Revue des deux Mondes</span>’ and other papers. Monseigneur Elloi
+says that Captain Aube is a very distinguished man in the French
+navy, and one who is certain of rapid promotion.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>He has another guest on board, M. Pinart, a scientific traveller.
+He belongs to a French Protestant family, but is such a thorough
+cosmopolite, that when we go about together in the native villages,
+and the people ask our nationalities, I always answer for him
+“American.” He is most industrious in his various lines of work,
+and is at present busy copying out vocabularies of all manner of
+dialects. He is greatly interested in all ethnological questions,
+and has a collection of skulls, enough to supply a resurrection
+army. I do not think the sailors like it very much, and they are
+always afraid that some trouble will arise with the natives of
+various isles on the vexed subject of <i>les cranes</i>, which our <i>savant</i>
+scents out from old hiding-places in caves and clefts of the mountains,
+with all the instinct of a schoolboy hunting for bird’s nests.
+He has just shown me some beautiful illustrations in colours, for
+the book he is bringing out on American Indians; also many
+good photographs, done by himself, of objects of interest in many
+lands.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am so sorry that the Seignelay paid her visits to Fotuna (in
+the Southern New Hebrides), and to the Wallis Isles, on the
+way to Fiji. If only these had been reserved for the return
+journey, I should have had the rare luck of seeing them also.
+My kind friends are for ever regretting this, and give me tantalising
+descriptions of both isles and people.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Apparently <i>les isles Wallis</i>, or Uvea, must be the true earthly
+paradise—so green, so fertile, with people so industrious, so contented,
+and so hospitable. It is a group of four or five high volcanic
+isles, all richly wooded, and protected from the ocean, not
+only by the great barrier-reef, but by an intricate labyrinth of
+lesser belts and patches, which make navigation a matter of extreme
+danger, even after the difficult entrance, by a very narrow
+passage, has been accomplished. The approach to the anchorage
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>is by a network of such dangerous channels, as involve masterly
+steering for even small craft, and make it a matter of wonder that
+large vessels should attempt it. Indeed a French steamer, L’Hermite,
+was wrecked there not long ago, owing to one moment’s
+hesitation on the part of her commander, who, meeting a strong
+tide running out, shifted the helm at a critical moment, and so the
+vessel was swept on to the reef—a helpless plaything for the overwhelming
+surf.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Wallis Isles lie due north of Tonga, and are the headquarters
+of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Oceania, and a strong
+clerical staff; also of a French sisterhood, who devote themselves
+to teaching children whose lives have been spared by their own
+once cannibal parents, and who now worship with them, in a handsome
+stone church, built by themselves, under the direction of the
+Fathers, and are in every respect pattern Catholics.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Three days’ sail from Wallis lies Fotuna, which is a little world
+by itself. It consists of a single peak, rising abruptly from the
+waters, and broken up into towering masses of crag and pinnacles,
+seamed by deep ravines, opening up into fertile valleys, richly
+cultivated. Sparkling streams afford an abundant water-supply
+for the irrigation of the <i>taro</i> beds; bread-fruit, bananas, and
+palms grow luxuriantly: so it is an isle of great natural beauty,
+and though only fifteen miles in circumference, affords ample provision
+for its 900 inhabitants. They seem to be a happy, healthy
+community, and have all adopted Christianity, either in its Protestant
+or Roman form. The representative of the latter is a fine old
+priest, who has devoted the greater part of his life to work on
+Fotuna, and year by year adds a few inches to the walls of a very
+large cathedral, which he hopes some future generation will complete.
+The natives show their love for the good <i>padre</i> by bringing
+him the heavy blocks of coral-rock, which he hews at his
+leisure; but they are well content to worship in less solid buildings.
+The majority wear, as their badge, a little brass medal of
+the Virgin, or some other Christian amulet, which, in the case of
+the little children, is often their only raiment!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Apparently the adherents of the two great Christian bodies contrive
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>to live in peace, instead of finding in differing faith a new
+occasion for enmities, as has been the case even in Polynesian isles.
+But is it not grievous that, when at length “the people who sat in
+darkness have seen a great light,” it should not shine upon them in
+one undivided ray?</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The people of this lonely isle are especially interesting, because
+they, and the inhabitants of Aniwa—a much smaller isle in the same
+region—are of a totally different race from those on the other isles
+composing the New Hebrides—the latter being Papuans, and these
+Malays, whose ancestors drifted all the way from Tonga in a canoe.
+Though their colour has darkened, they retain the dialect and the
+hair of their race.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Every one on board has treasures of some sort from Fotuna—especially
+very beautifully painted native cloth. I think some
+of the patterns are almost more artistic than those of the Fijians.
+Like theirs, these are principally geometrical; and in addition to
+the black and red dyes which are there used, the artists of Fotuna
+introduce a good deal of yellow. The printing is done in the same
+manner, the raised pattern being carefully designed with strips of
+cocoa-rib or bamboo on wooden blocks, on which the colour is
+stamped. It is the same principle as that of our printing-types,
+and was known in Polynesia long before the art of printing was
+invented in Europe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The most remarkable productions of Fotuna and some of its
+neighbouring isles are gigantic cocoa-nuts, more than double the
+ordinary size. They are immensely prized as drinking-cups. Many
+are 18 inches in circumference after the husk has been removed.
+The largest grow on the isle of Niufau, which is described as being
+merely the rim of a great crater, from which smoke sometimes
+rises, and which is incrusted with sulphur. Apparently the
+warmth of the soil agrees with all vegetation; for the isle is exceedingly
+fertile, and the cocoa-nuts are the wonder and envy of all
+beholders.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I confess I should not care to live on one of these smouldering
+volcanoes. There are a good many such, scattered about the
+Pacific—and occasionally one subsides altogether. For instance,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>halfway between Tonga and New Zealand lies Sunday Isle. It is
+a volcanic rock-mass 1600 feet in height, and about four miles in
+diameter. It is exceedingly fertile, but steam rises from all the
+crevices of the rocks, and the people have only to scrape a hole in
+the ground, and therein place their food that it may be baked in
+nature’s own oven. At one time there were a good many settlers
+in this warm corner, but in an evil day a Peruvian slave-ship
+touched here, and landed 200 poor creatures, captured in all parts
+of the Pacific. Typhoid fever had broken out among them; so
+they were thrown ashore to die, which they did, and most of the
+settlers shared their fate. The others left the island on the first
+opportunity, leaving only one white man with a Samoan wife and
+a dusky brood. These lived on in peace and plenty for about
+ten years, when suddenly the little fresh-water lake began to boil
+furiously, and from its midst a fountain of fire shot high in the air.
+Happily this mighty rocket served as a signal of distress, for a passing
+vessel descried the fiery column and came to investigate, greatly
+to the relief of the Crusoe family, who were taken on board, and
+for ever abandoned their home.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Evidently this isle must lie on the same volcanic chain as the
+White Sulphur Isle, which is a sulphur volcano to the north of
+New Zealand, connected subterraneously with that great tract in
+the province of Auckland, where geysers, solfataras, and all manner
+of volcanic phenomena abound.<a id='r6'></a><a href='#f6' class='c017'><sup>[6]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All these are reproduced on a smaller scale on the island of
+Tanna in the New Hebrides, within 30 miles of Fotuna. It is a
+circular island, about 40 miles in diameter. Near the harbour
+rises a volcanic mountain about 500 feet in height, densely wooded
+to the very summit, though seamed with fissures from which rise
+clouds of steam and sulphureous vapours. The whole island is
+exceedingly fertile—cocoa-palms, bread-fruit trees, bananas, sugar-cane,
+&#38;c., grow luxuriantly, and the yams occasionally attain a
+weight of 50 lb.; one root being from 40 to 50 inches long—a
+very neat thing in potatoes. Yet the soil which produces this
+rank vegetation forms so thin a crust over the vast furnace below,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>that in some places the penetrating heat is painful to the naked
+foot. Nevertheless, the people have no fear of accidents; on the
+contrary, wherever they find a group of hot springs they build their
+huts, and, like the New Zealanders, they love to lounge on the
+steaming grass or hot stones. In every village a circular space is
+set apart as the <i>marum</i>, or place for holding council or feasting,
+and in these districts a warm spot is selected, where, after sundown,
+the men may combine the pleasures of a vapour-bath with
+the enjoyment of their bowl of <i>kava</i>, while discussing the affairs of
+the tribe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The springs are in great favour as baths. They are of all temperatures—from
+the tepid water in which the natives play luxuriously
+for hours, to the boiling springs in which they place their
+food and leave it to cook itself. Some of these natural boilers lie
+so close to the shore, that the fishers who haunt the reefs, armed
+with long four-pronged spears, have only to throw their prize into
+the rock-caldron the moment they have secured it. No fear of
+tainted fish for them! Nor need they search far for drinking
+water. Probably the nearest spring is quite cold and excellent.
+Some of the springs are highly medicated, and many resort to the
+healing waters, some of which are especially efficacious for the cure
+of ulcerous sores.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Beyond the strangely fertile crust, covering the region of horror,
+lies an unveiled tract of cinders and black volcanic ash, forming
+a wide barren valley from which rises the principal cone. This
+valley is intersected by a multitude of fissures from which issue
+scalding sulphureous fumes. Here and there beds of the purest
+sulphur have been deposited, and trading vessels occasionally carry
+hence a cargo of this pale primrose-coloured mineral, to be turned
+to good domestic uses. Pools of boiling mud alternate with springs
+of cold water clear as crystal; and in fissures lying but a few feet
+apart the same strange diversity exists. One sends forth a blast of
+scalding steam, while in the next a dripping spring yields its slow
+but continuous supply of ice-cold water, falling drop by drop.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The cone, which is called Asoor by the Tannese, is about 300
+feet in height. It is a gradual ascent, but fatiguing, owing to the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>accumulation of fine black ash or sand, in which the foot sinks at
+every step. Masses of scoria and vitreous lava, or obsidian, have
+been thrown up by the volcano, and lie scattered on every side.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On reaching the summit, you find yourself on the brink of a
+crater half a mile in diameter, within which lie five secondary
+craters. These act as so many chimneys for the great furnace,
+which roars and bellows below, and which day and night, with
+deafening roar, unweariedly throws up its fiery blast at intervals of
+five, seven, or ten minutes, according as its action is more or less
+vehement. Some travellers have visited it repeatedly at intervals
+of several years, and their accounts of the intervals of eruption
+never vary beyond this slight difference. Huge masses of black
+rock or liquid fire are tossed in the air, to a height of 200 or 300
+feet, often falling back within the crater, or else hurled to the
+valley below. Clouds of white steam mingle with denser clouds of
+the finest dark-grey dust, which is carried by the wind to all parts
+of the island, coating every green leaf with a powder like fine
+steel-filings, which fills the eyes and nostrils of all breathing creatures
+in a most unpleasant manner. When rain falls, it absorbs
+this dust, and becomes literally a mud-shower.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From the position of the inner craters, it is obvious that even
+the most foolhardy scientific traveller could hardly venture to approach
+them to peer into the mysterious workings of that mighty
+caldron. Yet a native legend records, that in one of the fierce
+battles between the tribes of Tanna, one party was gradually
+driven backward, till they retreated to the summit of the cone, and
+even there they still fought on, contesting foot by foot of the
+sandy ridges of the inner crater, where a multitude of these savage
+warriors perished, having fought to the death, unheeding the wrath
+of the fire-gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But of the isles visited by the Seignelay, before I had the
+privilege of joining the party, there is none which I regret so much
+as Easter Island, or, as the inhabitants call it, Rapa Nui, where
+they touched on the way from Valparaiso, from which it is distant
+about 2500 miles, without any intermediate isle. I think it must
+be the loneliest spot in the Pacific, as there are apparently only two
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>little isles anywhere within a radius of 1000 miles. It is a volcanic
+island, about 11 miles long by 4 wide. It is covered with
+extinct craters, in some of which are deep pools of water. The
+highest point is about 1000 feet above the sea-level. The hills are
+covered with hybiscus and other scrub. It is inhabited by a
+race of very fair natives, like the Tahitians, and very elaborately
+tattooed.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the isle owes its interest to its mysterious relics of a forgotten
+race, who have utterly and completely died out, even from
+legendary lore; while their handiwork abides, written on the rocks,
+which are so covered with carving as to resemble the studio
+of some giant sculptor. Colossal stone images lie half buried
+beneath the creeping grass and encroaching scrub. At intervals
+all round the coast there are cyclopean platforms, from 200 to 300
+feet in length, and about 30 feet high, all built of hewn stones 5
+or 6 feet long, and accurately fitted, without cement. And above
+these, on the headlands, are artificially levelled platforms, paved
+with square blocks of black lava. On all these, stone pedestals
+remain, whereon were placed the great images, which, by some
+powerful force, have mostly been thrown to the ground and
+broken.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The average height of the figures is about 18 feet; some of those
+lying prostrate are 27 feet long, and measure 8 feet across the
+breast. You can infer the size of some of the upright ones from
+the fact that, so near noon as 2 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span>, they cast sufficient shadow to
+cover a party of thirty persons. Some have been found which
+measure 37 feet. They are all hewn of a close-grained grey lava,
+which is only found at Otouli, a crater on the east side of the
+island. On a platform near this quarry several gigantic images
+stand in perfect preservation. One of these measures 20 feet from
+the shoulder to the crown of the head.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They represent an unknown type. Very square face—short,
+thin upper lip, giving a somewhat scornful expression—broad nose
+and ears, with pendent lobes. All the faces look upward. The
+eyes are deeply sunken, and are supposed to have originally had
+eyeballs of obsidian.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>All the principal images have the top of the head cut flat and
+crowned with a cylindrical mass of red lava, hewn perfectly round.
+Some of these crowns are 66 inches in diameter and 52 in height.
+The only place on the island where this red lava is found, is the
+crater of Terano Hau, which is fully eight miles from Otouli; and
+how these ponderous crowns were conveyed to their position on the
+heads of the grey rock-kings, is one of the mysteries of the isle.
+About thirty of them still lie in the quarry where they were hewn,
+ready for the heads which they were never destined to adorn.
+Some of these are 30 feet in circumference.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Well may we marvel by what means those unknown sculptors
+transported their ponderous works of art from one distant point to
+another on this lonely volcanic isle. The statues are literally lying
+about in hundreds, and the very rocks on the sea-beach are carved
+into strange forms—tortoises or human faces.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Besides these, all along the coast, there are cairns of small stones,
+and on the top of each pile are laid a few white pebbles. These
+have probably been burial-cairns.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Unless the face of the island has undergone some wondrous
+change, those mysterious workmen cannot even have possessed
+wooden rollers to aid them in the toil of transport, for there are
+literally no trees—nothing but small scrub. When Captain Cook
+discovered the isle, he only saw three or four little canoes, which
+were built of many small pieces of wood, sewed together with fibre,
+the largest piece being 6 feet long and 14 inches wide at one end,
+8 inches at the other; and this, he thought, was probably driftwood.
+These canoes were from 18 to 20 feet long, and could
+barely hold four people. He found that the most acceptable gift
+he could bestow on the people was cocoa-nut shells, to be used as
+cups, since the island produced no palms, and but few gourds.
+Their only drink is brackish water, obtained by digging wells on
+the stony beach, through which the salt water filters.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Wooden tablets, covered with hieroglyphics, have been found,
+which might perhaps reveal something of the old history of the
+race, but as yet no one has been able to decipher them. There
+are also stone slabs, covered with geometric figures, curious birds,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>animals, and faces, painted in black, white, and red—doubtless
+these also are hieroglyphs. They are ranged inside the quaint
+stone houses, of which about a hundred remain, at one end of the
+isle; and are built in lines, with the doors towards the sea. The
+inside measurement of these houses is about 40 feet by 13, and
+the walls are upwards of 5 feet thick; they are built of flat stones
+laid in layers. At about 6 feet from the ground, the slabs are so
+laid as to overlap one another, till they gradually close; and the
+small opening at the top is roofed with long thin slabs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Till a Rawlinson arises to read the hieroglyphs of Rapa Nui, its
+mysteries must remain unsolved; and the cold proud faces, with
+the sightless eyeballs, will continue to gaze heavenward, and the
+great stone images, whether gods or heroes, must lie in fallen
+grandeur in this their sea-girt shrine, with none to tell us what
+unknown race devoted the labour of their lives to sculpturing the
+rocks on this lonely isle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Unfortunately the Seignelay has no artist among her officers, so
+no one has any sketches which can give me any general idea of
+the isle, and though I have seen a few photographs of individual
+figures, I cannot from them obtain any impression of the whole
+effect. I confess I wish I had had the chance of doing a few
+panoramic and bird’s-eye views of the whole scene. Though perhaps
+not artistic, I am quite convinced that by no other means can
+a traveller so fully enable friends at home to realise the scenes on
+which his own eyes have feasted.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The only other corner of the earth, in which I can hear of anything
+akin to these mysterious rock-sculptures, is the far-distant
+volcanic isle of Java. If you sail almost halfway round the world,
+heading straight for the west, you come to that wonderful isle,
+with its terrible volcanoes and amazing wealth of vegetation. Nowhere
+else are there so many distinct volcanoes in so small a space.
+No less than thirty-eight separate cones cluster round the great
+central range of mountains, from 5000 to 13,000 feet in height.
+Some are active fire-craters, and throw out molten lava; others are
+water-craters, containing milk-white lakes or sulphureous geysers:
+in short, volcanic action is there in every form of sublime terror,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>and the Javanese aborigines erected temples to appease the fire-giants,
+and from the solid rocks sculptured prodigious statues in
+their honour. In one spot 400 ruined shrines have been discovered,
+with altars, and images—all apparently built to propitiate
+the fire-gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is very risky to draw inferences from mere descriptions of
+any sort of art, but so far as I can make out, these would appear
+to be the productions of the true aborigines, ere Hindu influence
+prevailed, leaving its mark in those marvellous Buddhist ruins at
+Borrobudua and Samarang, which we so unfortunately did not see,
+on our way from Singapore to Fiji.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is, of course, possible that the platforms and sculptures of
+Easter Isle may simply have been an extraordinary development
+of the <i>marai</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the tomb-temple, which was the accepted form
+of ecclesiastical building throughout the south-east Pacific. They
+varied considerably in form, some being great pyramids erected on
+a stone platform; while on other isles (as, for instance, on Huahine,
+in the Society Isles) there are stone terraces, built irregularly,
+right up the face of the hill, with spaces left between them. On
+one of the principal platforms a row of tall monoliths stand upright,
+just as did the images on the Easter Island terraces. On
+Huahine these are called “the stones of dividing,” and are said to
+have been set up as memorials of the division of land among the
+various tribes, each stone representing the title-deeds of a clan.
+To this day each tribe recognises its own stone, and, beholding it,
+recollects its unwritten legend,—just as at the present day in Fiji
+a messenger who is charged with a dozen different errands, will
+carry in his hand a dozen small sticks or leaves, and in fancy
+makes each stick represent a message. From this imaginary notebook
+he will read off each detail with unerring accuracy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Whatever faint resemblance may suggest itself between the
+irregular terraces and monoliths of Huahine, and the equally
+irregular terraces and statues of Easter Isle, it is hardly conceivable
+that such vast energy could have been expended on a mere
+memorial of tribal divisions, especially where there was so little
+land to divide. Perhaps Easter Isle was a sort of Iona—the Holy
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>Isle of the old Druids, who there erected the 360 great monoliths,
+which the followers of St Columba sanctified by carving them
+into the form of crosses, but which in later years were cast into
+the sea by order of a ruthless Protestant Synod, who declared
+them to be “monuments of idolatrie.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The only traces of any forgotten race which I have had the good
+luck to see on the present cruise, have been the cyclopean tombs
+of the old kings of Tonga, and a huge trilithon, concerning which
+the present islanders know as little as we do of Stonehenge.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While in Tonga I endeavoured to procure some stone adzes, but
+could only buy three very coarse ones without handles. They
+have long been in disuse there. M. Pinart, however, succeeded
+in getting some better specimens, which were carefully stowed away
+by some of the old people in the recesses of their homes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>What miraculous patience it must have required, first to make
+these stone implements, and then to work with them! They
+were generally made from basaltic stones, which were dug out of
+the earth with strong sticks, and then roughly chipped into shape
+with a heavy flint. Perhaps after many hours of severe labour
+the stone would break in two, and the workman had to select
+another and begin again. This time he might progress swimmingly,
+and spend perhaps whole days in carefully chipping, till
+the rough stone began to take shape. Then he would substitute
+a lighter flint, and work with still greater care, only chipping off
+the first fragments,—and after all his labour, perhaps one sharp
+tap would prove fatal, and the carefully chiselled axe would split
+in two, revealing an unsuspected flaw in the centre. So the work
+must all be begun again, and the patient, persevering savage go on
+with his chipping till he succeeded in producing a perfect axe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then came the slow process of smoothing it by such delicate
+strokes as only removed a fine white dust, and last of all came
+laborious polishing with rough coral and water and fine sand, till
+the axe at length became a serviceable tool, ready to be bound
+with strongly plaited fibre to the bent wooden handle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After this it had to be periodically ground by rubbing it on a
+very hard rock. We saw several rocks in Fiji scored with deep
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>grooves from having constantly been used for this purpose; and
+of course they must exist in all countries in which stone celts
+have been in use, which, I suppose, means all corners of the round
+world, Britain included. I greatly doubt, however, whether the
+ancient Britons ever produced such artistic carved bowls and
+spears with their stone implements as these Pacific Islanders have
+done.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The men who worked with these tools needed wellnigh as much
+patience as those who manufactured them. Imagine a squad of
+men taking from fifteen to thirty days to fell a tree! Saith the
+old proverb, “Little strokes fell great oaks,” and these were little
+strokes indeed! Of course a more rapid process was to make a
+slow fire all round the base of the tree, and so burn it down; but
+the fire so often ran up the heart of the tree, destroying it altogether,
+that the slower process proved best in the long-run. However,
+as a good-sized tree could thus be felled in three or four
+days, the rafters of houses were often thus prepared, and the
+branches burnt off. Once down, fire could be better used to
+divide the tree into useful lengths; and if a canoe were required,
+a long narrow line of fire was allowed to burn the whole length,
+its progress being regulated by the slow dripping of water. Thus
+the work left for the stone axe was considerably lessened, though
+it would still have puzzled a British carpenter to work with such
+tools.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Tuesday, 18th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We are enjoying the most perfect weather—a calm sea and a
+faint sweet breeze. The vessel glides on her way so smoothly
+that we scarcely perceive any motion, and all yesterday I was able
+to work up my sketch of the grotto, sitting in a delightful improvised
+studio on the tiny bridge (<i>la passerelle</i>). We are not making
+much way, as we are sailing to economise fuel; but the days
+pass pleasantly, and there is always some ship-life going on, which
+to me has all the interest of novelty—either parade, or fire-stations,
+or fighting-stations, or cannon practice (mercifully done
+in dumb show!)</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>We are passing through a great shoal of jelly-fish—I suppose I
+ought to say medusæ—filmy, transparent creatures of very varied
+form. Some are like mushrooms, some like great bells, with delicately
+marked patterns of pale green or pink, and long fringe of
+feelers. They are beautiful by day, and at night gleam like balls
+of white fire. They are here in myriads, and are of all sizes, from
+a teacup to a cart-wheel. There are also a great number of flying-fish
+skimming on the surface of the glassy sea.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am told that we are now 630 miles from Levuka in a direct
+line; but our <i>détour</i> in the Friendly Isles has made our voyage
+thence amount to about 1100 miles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have just sighted Mount Matafae, the highest point in the
+isle Tutuila. It is a conical mountain 2300 feet high, and lies
+just above Pango-Pango, the most perfect landlocked harbour in
+all the Samoan group, with water six or eight fathoms deep close
+in shore, and surrounded by luxuriantly wooded hills. At present
+we are steering straight for Leone, where the bishop has work
+awaiting him. The place had an evil name in old days, as that
+where M. de Langle, who accompanied La Pérouse on his expedition
+in 1787, was barbarously murdered, with eleven men of his
+boat’s crew,—hence the name of “Massacre Bay,” and the character
+of treacherous and bloodthirsty savages which for so many
+years clung to the people, till Messrs Williams and Barff arrived
+here in 1830 with their trained Tahitian teachers, and made
+friends with them. Then they learnt the native version of the
+fray, and heard the invariable story of innocence suffering for
+guilt,—namely, that a poor fellow who had gone off to the ship to
+trade had been detected in some trifling act of pilfering, when he
+was immediately shot and carried ashore mortally wounded. Of
+course his friends determined to avenge his death, and so assembled
+on the beach, armed with stones and clubs, ready to attack the
+invaders the moment they attempted to land. They were only
+carrying out the example given to them, and combined revenge for
+evil done, with prevention of further assault.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span><span class='sc'>Pango-Pango Harbour</span>, <i>Tuesday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>After all, we did come here, for the anchorage at Leone is simply
+an open roadstead, and is not safe in a strong southerly gale. Captain
+Aube feared the wind might shift, so the vessel merely lay to,
+to allow a young priest, Père Vidal, to leap on board from his
+canoe, and then we ran right to this lovely spot, where we anchored
+at sunset.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is indeed a perfect harbour. We are lying close to the shore,
+in water twenty-one fathoms deep, clear as crystal, and calm as any
+inland lake. Steep, richly wooded hills rise round us on every
+side to a height of about 1000 feet, and you can discern no entrance
+from the sea. It seems like living in a vast cup. The hills all
+round are covered with bread-fruit trees, oranges, limes, pine-apples,
+bananas, and all the usual wealth of tropical greenery.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This has been a calm, peaceful evening of soft moonlight. We
+sat on the <i>passerelle</i> while one of the officers, who is an excellent
+violinist, played one lovely <i>romance</i> after another, sometimes soaring
+to classical music. The others lay round him listening in rapt
+delight.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The air is fragrant with the breath of many blossoms, and indeed
+all the afternoon we have had delicious whiffs of true “spicy
+breezes,” such as I remember vividly off Cape Comorin, but which
+I have not very often experienced at any distance from the land.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER V.<br> <span class='c009'>BOAT TRANSIT TO LEONE—SPOUTING CAVES—COUNCIL OF WAR—SKETCH OF SAMOAN HISTORY—NIGHT DANCES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In the House of the Native Catechist,</span></div>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>Leone</span>, <i>Wednesday, 19th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have had a long delightful day, and I am tolerably tired;
+but before taking to my mat, I must give you some notion of what
+we have seen. All the early morning the ship was surrounded by
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>canoes full of natives, offering clubs, native cloth, and baskets
+for sale. Some of the canoes had ornamental prows with carved
+birds, &#38;c.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After breakfast I went ashore with M. Pinart to see all we could
+of the village. We were invited to enter several houses, which are
+much more open and less like homes than those in Tonga or Fiji.
+But the people are all in a ferment, for, as usual in poor Samoa,
+this is only a lull in the course of incessant tribal war, and the
+people of Pango-Pango belong to the Puletoa, who were severely
+beaten in a recent battle. They are, however, keen to return to the
+fray, and this morning all the warriors assembled in full conclave,
+holding a council of war. They arrived in large canoes (some of
+their canoes carry upwards of 200 people, but those we saw had not
+room for above 50). They are noble-looking men, the fairest race
+in Polynesia, and truly dignified in their bearing. Some wore
+crowns of green leaves, and many had blossoms of scarlet hybiscus
+coquettishly stuck in their hair, which is cut short, dyed with coral-lime,
+and frizzled and stiffened with a sort of <i>bandoline</i> made of the
+sticky juice of the bread-fruit tree, mixed with scented oil; so that,
+instead of being straight and black, it stands round the head in a
+stiff halo of tawny yellow, like that of the Fijians and Tongans.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Is it not strange that the same curious rage for converting black
+hair into gold should prevail on this side of the world, just as it
+has in London in various epochs of fashion’s folly, as when the
+attendants of “The Virgin Queen” dyed their raven locks with
+a lee of wood-ashes, especially those of “ivy-tree bark,” or a decoction
+of the flowers of broom, either of which was warranted to
+“cause the hair grow yellow”? Of the various alkaline washes in
+use at the present day, and the good champagne converted to a hair-wash,
+I need not speak. Besides, these are mysteries which I have
+not yet solved.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here there is no deception at all in the process. It is all carried
+on in open day, for the simple and cleanly purpose of exterminating
+wee beasties. The head, whether male or female, that has just
+been whitewashed, presents exactly the appearance of a barrister’s
+wig stuck on to a bronze statue. But such work is all done on undress
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>days; and of course to-day every one was got up in full suits
+of mats and foliage, with a good coating of fresh cocoa-nut oil, the
+effect of which, on a brown skin, is admirable. The Psalmist knew
+what it was, when he spoke of “oil to make him a cheerful countenance.”
+The man who neglects it looks dull and lack-lustre; while
+he who, having anointed his flaxen locks, has then given his face
+and shoulders a good polish, seems altogether radiant.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course we found our way to the House of Debate. The
+spokesmen were apparently eloquent orators, very fluent, making
+use of much gesticulation and very graceful action. Each carries a
+fly-flap, which is his badge of office, and consists of a long bunch
+of fine brown fibre, very like a horse’s tail, sometimes plaited into
+a multitude of the finest braids, and all attached to a carved handle
+about a foot in length. With this, when not engaged in speechifying,
+he disperses the flies which presume to annoy his chief. But while
+talking, the fly-flap is thrown carelessly over the right shoulder.
+Dainty little flaps of the same sort are carried by many persons in
+preference to the fibre-fans in common use. I observe, however,
+that there are fewer fans here than in Fiji, where you are always
+offered one the moment you enter the poorest hut.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I was struck by the rapt attention with which the audience
+favoured each successive speaker. The bishop was present, accompanied
+by the captain. They wished to remonstrate with the big
+chief on the subject of certain persecutions of Catholics, and also
+to urge him and his party to submission. They are but a handful
+compared with the others, and the strife seems so hopeless, and has
+already cost so many good lives; but I fear the good bishop’s
+efforts are all in vain. Like the Hebrew peacemaker, he “labours
+for peace; but when he speaks unto them thereof, they make them
+ready to battle.” And now, in every village and in every house,
+all the men are busy rubbing up their old guns, and preparing ammunition,
+making cartridges, and so forth.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned on board at noon; and after luncheon, the bishop
+had to return in a ship’s boat to Leone. He most kindly invited
+me to accompany him. We were a full boat-load—Père Soret and
+Père Vidal, two chiefs, two other natives, one officer, and twelve
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>French sailors. The sea was very rough, and we shipped so much
+water that two men were told off to bale incessantly. Of course
+our things got very wet. On these occasions the bishop is seen in
+perfection; he is so cheery and pleasant to every one, sailors and
+passengers, and makes the best of everything, though himself suffering
+greatly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This sort of boating is very different from travelling on our lovely
+Fijian lagoons, within the shelter of the encircling reef. Here the
+huge breakers dash madly on the shore, where they spout like
+geysers through a thousand perforated rocks, and we had to remain
+fully half a mile from land to avoid their rush. Oh for the calm
+mirror-like sea-lakes over which we have glided for the last two
+years, till I, for one, had wellnigh forgotten what boating in rough
+water means! To-day our ten stout rowers could with difficulty
+make any way, and our progress was slow.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We saw enough of the island (Tutuila) to agree in the general
+praise of its green loveliness. Its high volcanic hills are densely
+wooded, and look more tropical than those of Ovalau (Fiji). But
+our powers of appreciation were considerably damped by the invading
+spray, and we watched the rugged coast, chiefly with a
+view to knowing whether there was one spot where a boat could
+land in case of need; but in the whole run of twelve miles, there
+was not a single place where it would have been possible. Even
+here, at this large native town, there is only a narrow break in the
+rocks, where landing is tolerably safe in fine weather.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As we drew near we saw a large body of Samoan warriors exercising
+on the shore, and hear that the people have assembled from
+far and near to take measures for immediately crushing the rebels
+at Pango-Pango (our friends of this morning). The chiefs here
+belong to the <i>Faipule</i> faction.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The good Fathers invited me to tea at their house, and then
+handed me over to the care of Dorothea, the excellent wife of their
+catechist, who had prepared the tidy inner room of her house for
+my reception. Here I am most cosily established. My hostess,
+with about twenty of her scholars, nice-looking girls, have hung up
+great screens of <i>tappa</i> to act as mosquito-nets; and under these
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>they are sleeping peacefully in the outer room. Of course I
+brought my own net and pillow, being too old a traveller ever to
+risk a night without them; and my bed is a layer of fine mats,
+beautifully clean and temptingly cool. To these I must now
+betake me, so good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In the Teacher’s House</span>, <i>Thursday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I started in the early morning for a long walk, taking as my
+guide a graceful half-caste girl with flowing black hair. She wore
+a fine mat round her waist, and a pretty patchwork pinafore, of
+the simple form generally adopted here—that is, a fathom of cloth,
+with a hole cut out of the centre to admit the head and neck. It
+is trimmed with some sort of fringe, either of fibre or grass. Occasionally
+two bright-coloured handkerchiefs, stitched together at the
+upper corners, supply the simple garment, which, however, is not
+an indigenous product of Samoa, but was the <i>tiputa</i> introduced by
+the early Tahitian teachers. It is practically the same as a Spanish
+<i>poncho</i>. All the shore here is edged with black volcanic rock; the
+lava seems to have formed huge bubbles as it cooled, and many
+of these have been water-worn till they are connected one with
+another by innumerable channels. So the waves rush tumultuously
+into these subterranean caves, and thence through hidden
+passages, till they reach openings like deep wells which lie at
+intervals along the shore, at some distance from the sea. Through
+these chimneys the rushing waters spout in great foam-fountains,
+and the effect produced is that of intermittent geysers, all along
+the coast. I think some of the jets must have been fully 100
+feet high—and how the great breakers do surge and roar! No
+peaceful silent shore here!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We passed a very large deserted European house, built by Mr
+Scott of the Presbyterian Mission. How so large a house came to
+be required, or why it was abandoned, are mysteries of which I
+have heard no solution.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I returned to breakfast with the Fathers, to whose house I go
+for all meals. Happily the kind forethought of Captain Aube has
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>provided me with a private teapot and a good supply of tea and
+sugar, so that I can have a brew whenever I wish;—a great comfort,
+as the ecclesiastical hours are very irregular, the Fathers being
+in the habit of luxuriating on dry yam, drier biscuit, and cold
+water. The only attempt at cooking is that of a nice half-caste
+lad, who is the bishop’s sole attendant, and combines the duties of
+chorister, acolyte, episcopal valet, and cook; so his duties in the
+latter capacity have to wait on the former.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It seems we have arrived here at a most critical moment. The
+majority of the chiefs of Tutuila have assembled here to hold
+council of war how most effectually to subdue the rebels. The
+majority are in favour of war. A few have not yet arrived. All
+to-day they have been sitting in parties all round the <i>malæ</i>—that
+is, the village green. At intervals one of the “talking men” stood
+up, and, laying his fly-flapper on his bare shoulder, leant on a tall
+staff, and, without moving from the spot where he had been
+sitting, threw out an oration in short, detached, abrupt sentences.
+Having had his say he sat down, and each group apparently made
+its own comments quietly. There were long pauses between the
+speeches, which made the proceedings rather slow; but we sat by
+turns with all the different parties (<i>we</i>, meaning myself, M. de
+Kerraoul, and M. Pinart, who had walked across the hills from
+Pango-Pango).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After a while, the bishop was invited to speak—a great exertion,
+as the audience formed such a very wide circle. He took up his
+position beneath the shade of a bread-fruit tree in the centre, and
+though his voice was very weak, he was distinctly heard by all—and
+his speech seemed impressive. Of course he urged peace, and
+he has a good hope that at least the Roman Catholic chiefs will
+allow themselves to be guided by him. But the meeting closed
+with a bad tendency to war, which was illustrated by various
+actions in the manner of bringing in the feast, the way in which
+women, wearing trains of <i>tappa</i>, were going about all day, carrying
+bowls of <i>kava</i> to the orators, and other symptoms evident to practised
+eyes. Many of the men wore beautiful crowns of Pearly
+Nautilus shell, which are also symptomatic of warlike intentions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>The bishop’s words, however, were not without effect. The
+council assembled again to-night, and is still sitting, and I hear
+that after much talk the chiefs have written a letter to the chief
+of Pango-Pango, again inviting him to submit, and so avert war.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Just now I mentioned the bowls of <i>kava</i> with which ministering
+damsels refreshed the thirsty speakers. Perhaps I should explain
+that it is the identical drink which I so fully described, in writing
+to you from Fiji, where it was known as <i>yangona</i>—namely, a dry
+root masticated, till there remains only a fine white fibre, as free
+as possible from saliva. This is placed in a large wooden bowl,
+and water is poured over it. It is then strained through a fine
+piece of hybiscus fibre till all the particles of root have been
+removed, when there remains only a turbid yellow fluid, tasting
+like ginger and soap-suds, which is gently stimulating, like weak
+sal-volatile, and has the advantage of rarely resulting in intoxication,
+which, in any case, is a very different affair from that produced
+by drinking spirits. A man must drink a good deal of this
+nasty <i>kava</i> before he can get drunk; and when he does, his head
+remains quite clear,—he merely loses the use of his limbs, and has
+to appeal to the compassionate bystanders to lift him to a place of
+safety. If his companions were white men, they might obligingly
+empty his pockets while he looked on helplessly; but South Sea
+Islanders would scorn to take so base an advantage of a man in his
+cups. On the contrary, they will obligingly bring him some mountain
+bananas, nicely roasted in their skins, which are considered
+a corrective, and will then leave him to sleep himself sober.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Different groups have trifling differences in their method of preparing
+this national beverage, and the ceremonies to be observed.
+In Fiji it is considered very incorrect for a woman to touch the
+bowl,—chewing, straining, and handing it round in cocoa-nut
+shells, should all be done by young men, whose comrades sing
+wild melodies during the manufacture, and keep up a peculiar
+measured hand-clapping while the chiefs are drinking. Here, in
+Samoa, the girls are all Hebes. They do the brewing, and carry
+round the cups, but there are no songs (<i>yangona-méké</i>), and the
+only hand-clapping is done by the drinker himself as he hands
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>back the cup. In Fiji, the correct thing is to send the empty cup
+skimming across the mat to the great central bowl.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This afternoon a corps of sixty warriors favoured us with a very
+odd sort of drill dance. Their dress consisted of kilts of black
+calico, trimmed with cut-out white calico, to look like <i>tappa</i>; on
+their heads a turban of Turkey red; their mouth and chin
+hideously blackened, which on these very fair people produces a
+monstrously ugly effect. They all had muskets, and were called
+soldiers; but we thought their drill was more funny than warlike,
+and concluded that they would be quite as dangerous to their
+friends as their foes. They have a sort of American flag, invented
+by Colonel Steinberger.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The dance was a very miserable travesty of a true native <i>méké</i>,
+such as we have so often seen in the isles further west; but here
+the vulgarising influence of white men is painfully evident, and
+one of the prominent figures at the chief’s council was a high
+chiefess in a huge crinoline, a gorgeous red dress, and a hideously
+unbecoming hat, trimmed with scarlet and green ribbon and
+feathers:</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us,</div>
+      <div class='line'>To see oursels as ithers see us!”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c019'>Could that proud woman but have known with what different eyes
+we, the great strangers representing all Europe, looked on her fine
+foreign clothes, and on the pretty becoming attire of her handmaidens,
+with their finely plaited and fringed mats, necklaces of
+scarlet berries on their clear olive skin, and bright blossoms in
+their hair!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Philosophers tell us there is always good in things evil; and so
+far as outward appearance goes, the tendency to war is in favour
+of artistic beauty, as these people (like the Samoans and Tongans)
+connect the idea of good behaviour with pretty closely cropped
+heads; but when the war-spirit revives they become defiant, and
+let their hair grow like a lion’s mane, and adorn themselves with
+gay wreaths and garlands from the neck and waist. When a man
+has allowed his hair to grow long, he twists it up in a knot on the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>top of his head, but it would be considered gross disrespect to appear
+thus in presence of a superior or at a religious service. He
+must then untie the string and let his hair fall on his shoulders.
+Rather odd, is it not, that they should have exactly the same idea
+on this subject as a Chinaman, who dares not venture to appear in
+presence of a superior with his pigtail twisted round his head?</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-day the great chief’s half-caste secretary asked me most
+anxiously when “Arthur Gordon” was coming from Fiji, and
+whether it was really certain that he would endeavour to force
+the Samoans to reinstate King Malietoa. I ventured to answer
+for Sir Arthur having no such intention, which seemed to soothe
+the inquirer and all his anxious surroundings. You may remember
+that we have twice had Samoan chiefs in Fiji. Once when
+they were brought as hostages on board the Barracouta, and once
+as a deputation to the British Government, to claim a protectorate
+from England. In each case, though the protectorate was refused,
+they were most kindly received by Sir Arthur Gordon, and
+amongst other attentions, were invited to dine at Government
+House. So several of those here assembled now recognised me as
+an old acquaintance, and are very friendly in consequence.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It really is too sad to see those fine manly fellows, who, if they
+could but work in concert, might be such a powerful little community,
+now all torn by internal conflicts and jealousies, continually
+fanned by the unprincipled whites, who hope to reap their
+harvest in the troubles of their neighbours. I fear it would be
+difficult in a few words to explain the position of affairs, but I
+must give you a rough outline.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The old original <i>Tui Samoa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, kings—were of the dynasty
+of Tupua. Some generations back the Tongans came and invaded
+Samoa, whose people resisted bravely, and finally expelled the foe.
+The Wellington of that day was a brave chief, who was thenceforth
+known as <i>Malietoa</i>, the “Good “Warrior,” a title which from
+that day has been borne by the chief ruler of the isles, even if not
+in the direct lineal descent. The chiefs of Savaii, and of part of
+Upolu, with the lesser isles of Manono and Apolima, elected Malietoa
+their king. The isles of Auna and Atua remained loyal to the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>Tupua family. They were, however, conquered by a successor of
+Malietoa, who reigned as king of the whole group till 1840, since
+which period a ceaseless strife has been waged between the contending
+factions. These became aggravated in 1869 by a split in
+the Malietoa camp, when, on the death of the reigning chief, his
+two sons contested the succession. The chiefs of Savaii supported
+the claims of the elder brother, while those of the isle Monono
+elected the second, justly believing that the chiefs of Apia were
+becoming mere tools in the hands of the foreigners.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This double civil war, fomented as usual by the whites, raged
+till 1872, when the United States assumed a sort of protectorate
+over the group, and in the following year a republic was declared,
+the supreme power being vested in the hands of a representative
+body of seven high chiefs. These were called the <i>Taimua</i>—<i>i.e.</i>,
+the “Pioneers.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I must tell you that the great nobles of Samoa are called <i>Alii</i>,
+and the greatest care is taken to preserve their line in direct lineal
+descent from the ancient chiefs. It is not necessary that the title
+should descend from father to son, only that it should be bestowed
+on a member of the family, who can trace back his clear pedigree
+to the true source. Therefore, on the death of a high chief, the
+minor chiefs of the tribe elect the member of the principal family,
+whom they will henceforth acknowledge as their political head,
+reserving to themselves the power of deposing him should he
+prove unsatisfactory.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These minor chiefs also hold their title as head of the family by
+election—a son being often passed over in favour of a cousin, and
+sometimes even of one who is no blood relation, but is adopted for
+some political reason. These head men are the <i>Faipule</i>, who act
+as local magistrates in each village, the affairs of which they discuss
+in solemn conclave. They have the name of being great
+orators, and much eloquence flows in these legislative assemblies.
+The great chiefs never speak in public, that office being deputed
+to their official spokesman. In a general way the Samoan isles
+have divided themselves into ten districts, each of which has its
+distinct <i>fono</i> or parliament, and no action is taken in any matter
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>till the members of one council have arrived at something very
+near a unanimous decision. Of course, in times of war like the
+present, these matters are very irregular.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In January 1875, a new experiment was tried. Unheeding
+the wisdom which forbids having “two queens in Brentford,” the
+Samoans resolved to have a king of each dynasty, who should
+reign jointly: so Pulepule of the ancient Tupua race ascended the
+throne in company with Malietoa Laupepa; and the number of
+the <i>Taimua</i> was raised from seven to fourteen. How long this
+amicable arrangement might have continued, it is impossible to say;
+for on the 1st April 1875, a very serious phase of April fooling
+was enacted by an American adventurer, known as Colonel Steinberger,
+who, by some means not clearly explained, obtained a
+passage to Apia in the United States man-of-war Tuscarora, and
+on landing stated that he had been sent from Washington to
+organise a new government. As his sole credentials, he presented
+the Samoans with four pieces of cannon and a Gatling gun, which,
+he said, were a gift from President Grant.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Utterly ignoring all the foreign consuls, including the representative
+of the States, he proceeded, under protection of the American
+man-of-war, to draw up a new constitution, declaring Malietoa sole
+king, and himself (Steinberger) prime minister, and, in fact, supreme
+ruler. This matter being settled, the Tuscarora sailed, and
+Steinberger proceeded to arm the schooner Peerless (which he had
+purchased in San Francisco) with guns and ammunition, and
+sailed to Tutuila to put down the disturbances in that island.
+The American consul (Mr Foster) vainly remonstrated against the
+proceeding of this unlicensed vessel flying the American flag; and
+taking advantage of the arrival of H.M.S. Barracouta, commanded
+by Captain Stevens, he seized the Peerless for breach of the neutrality
+laws.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then followed a meeting of all the foreign residents, resolving
+to free themselves from the tyranny of this self-constituted dictator.
+Many of the Samoan chiefs joined with the foreigners in claiming
+British protection—the German consul, Godeffroy’s representative,
+being the only one to stand aloof. The Barracouta arrived on the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>12th December; and on the 7th February, Malietoa appealed to
+the United States consul to aid him in getting rid of his arrogant
+premier. Mr Foster forwarded this petition to the British consul
+and Captain Stevens, who, after an interview with the king and
+the Samoan representatives—the <i>Taimua</i> and the <i>Faipule</i>—agreed
+to arrest Steinberger, who, accordingly, was carried on board the
+Barracouta for safe keeping.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>His right hand, Jonas Coe, was however left at large, and by
+his advice the Steinberger faction proceeded that night to seize the
+king and carry him off to the isle of Savaii, where they forced him
+to sign a deed of abdication, vesting all power of government in the
+<i>Taimua</i> and <i>Faipule</i>. Within a week Malietoa contrived to send
+a message to Captain Stevens, acquainting him with these circumstances,
+and requesting his further aid. The Barracouta accordingly
+went to the rescue, and brought the king back to Apia, where he
+was landed with a salute of twenty-one guns, and a guard of marines
+was told off to protect him. The town was now full of armed
+mobs, who surrounded the British consulate in a threatening manner,
+so that Mr Williams, the consul, was obliged to swear in
+special constables for its protection.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So matters went on till the 13th March, when the king, wishing
+to explain to his people his reasons for dismissing Steinberger,
+summoned all the chiefs to meet him at the neighbouring village
+of Mulinunu, which lies on a green peninsula beyond Apia.
+Malietoa was escorted by his principal chiefs, the consuls, and
+foreign residents, and Captain Stevens, with a guard of sailors and
+marines; the latter with unloaded arms, which were piled on
+reaching the village. Then, in their rear, appeared a strong party
+of armed natives, cutting off their retreat, and evidently meditating
+an attack. An officer, with a small party of marines, advanced
+to parley with these men, but were received with a volley of musketry,
+which killed and wounded several. Then followed a sharp
+skirmish, in which the sailors fought at a great disadvantage—the
+enemy being 500 strong, and concealed by the dense thickets of
+bananas and sugar-cane. Eleven sailors and marines were killed
+and wounded, and the assailants lost about double that number.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>Grave fears were entertained that the British and American consulates
+would be attacked; so they were put in a state of defence,
+which proved a sufficient precaution. Next day Mr Jonas Coe
+was tried by his consul and countrymen, and sentenced to be deported.
+So he enjoyed the privilege of joining his chief on board
+H.M.S. Barracouta, which soon afterwards sailed for New Zealand,
+calling at Fiji on the way (on which occasion I made friends with
+the three Samoan chiefs whom Captain Stevens had brought away
+as hostages for the good behaviour of their party).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Much oil having been poured on these troubled waters by the
+soothing intervention of both French and English missionaries, and
+especially by the personal influence of the bishop, a superficial
+peace was established, and Malietoa Laupepa once more reigned as
+king. How soon disturbances have broken out, we now see too
+plainly.<a id='r7'></a><a href='#f7' class='c017'><sup>[7]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After our evening meal at the Fathers’ house, I took a turn in
+the moonlight with M. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul, hoping to see a
+Samoan dance, which was to come off soon after sunset. But the
+council having again met, the dance was deferred till so late that
+I thought it better to come back here, where I found all the pretty
+little school-girls adorned with garlands, singing and acting very
+pretty quaint songs and dances, illustrating their geography, arithmetic,
+&#38;c. Then about twenty grown-up women, who had come
+in from the village, sprang to their feet, and volunteered to show
+me some of the real old Samoan night dances—<i>Po ulu faka Samoa</i>.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>These were exceedingly ungraceful, and half their point seemed to
+consist in making hideous grimaces and contortions, and in reducing
+wearing apparel to a minimum, consisting chiefly of green
+leaves. I think that on the slightest encouragement they would
+have dispensed with any. Each figure was more ungainly than its
+predecessor, and seemed likely to be prolonged indefinitely; so,
+as it struck me that the entertainment would scarcely meet with
+the approbation of the good Fathers, should it occur to them for
+any reason to come over, I suggested that the children should give
+us a parting song, whereupon they sang “Malbrooke” and “Bon
+Soir” very prettily, though I daresay the French words they repeated
+did not convey much more to their minds than do the
+Latin prayers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then the party dispersed, and now the school-girls are all safely
+stowed away beneath their close <i>tappa</i> mosquito-curtains, like a
+regiment under tents, and I am in possession of the inner reeded
+room. It is a great boon to have such a haven of refuge from the
+multitude of gazing brown eyes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>By the shouts from the <i>rara</i> I know that the council has broken
+up, and the real Samoan dance has now begun; but from the
+specimen given to me by the ladies, I think it is just as well that
+I came away.—Now, good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VI.<br> <span class='c009'>A SHORE WITHOUT A REEF—SAMOAN PLANTS—HOUSES—ANIMALS—LAYING FOUNDATION-STONE OF A CHURCH—SCHOOL FESTIVAL—THE NAVIGATOR’S ISLES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Leone, Isle Tutuila</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Sept. 21, 1877</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>At early dawn my pretty half-caste damsel took me to bathe in
+the river, but the shore was muddy and not very attractive. We
+returned in time for service in the little church, which is about to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>be replaced by a much larger building, the foundations of which
+are already raised, and the great event of this afternoon has been
+laying its first stone.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Immediately after breakfast at the Fathers’ house, I started
+with M. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul for a long, most lovely walk
+along the coast, by a path winding among dark rocks and rich
+ferns, with great trees overhanging the sea, which breaks in real
+surf below them, washing their roots, which seem alive with
+myriads of crabs of all sizes, which also wander at large among
+the branches, like so many birds. Many of the lower boughs are
+actually fringed with shells and sea-weed, while the growth of
+parasitic ferns on the upper branches is wonderful to behold. The
+muddy shore of the river seemed literally moving, from the multitude
+of burrowing crabs, with one large pink claw; and every now
+and again a great land-crab would peer at us from some fruit-laden
+branch, with its curious eyes projecting on movable stalks, which
+turn about at will.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is the first place in the Pacific where I have seen grand
+green waves break on the shore. Throughout the Fijian isles
+they spend their force on the barrier-reef, and only the gentlest
+ripple washes the coral-sand.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The rainfall here is greatly in excess of that in Fiji, consequently
+vegetation is richer, and the intensity of green more remarkable.
+So far as I can judge, the general foliage here is identical with
+that of the most fertile of “our” isles. The cocoa-nuts are much
+larger.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am afraid to confess how hateful to me is the very thought of
+returning to long weary winters in Britain, with six dreary months
+of leafless undress. Do you realise that in all these isles there are
+only two or three deciduous trees, and that the majority put forth
+their wealth of young leaves almost faster than the old drop off?
+They are “busy trees” indeed, laden at once with bud and blossom,
+ripe and unripe fruit, and in many cases bearing several crops in a
+year. No wonder that these light-hearted people care so little to
+weary themselves with digging and delving, when the beautiful
+groves yield them fruit in abundance, and the mountains supply
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>uncultivated crops of nourishing bananas and wild yams. For that
+matter, I suspect it is really quite as fatiguing to climb the steep
+mountains in search of wild vegetables as it would be to grow
+them in gardens—probably a good deal more so—for the beautiful
+mountain-plantain, which is the staple article of food, grows in all
+the most inaccessible valleys and clefts of the rock. As you look
+up the steep hillside, so richly clothed with vegetation, the most
+prominent forms are these large handsome leaves, with their huge
+cluster of fruit growing upright from the centre, but to reach them
+you may have to climb a couple of thousand feet—and <i>such</i> climbing!
+A man would need to be in very robust health who could
+face such a walk to fetch his family food. For my own part, I
+should prefer to sacrifice the romance, and plod steadily at my
+yam-garden.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These mountain-plantains are the only branch of the family
+which carry their fruit upright in that proud fashion; all other sorts
+hang drooping below the leaves, like gigantic bunches of yellow
+grapes; and the native legend tells how, long ago, all the banana
+tribe held their fruit upright, but that in an evil hour they
+quarrelled with the mountain-plantain, and were defeated,—hence
+they have ever since hung their head in shame.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In heathen days the Samoans seem to have been greatly averse
+to unnecessary work, and even the art of making cloth of the
+paper-mulberry fibre was one which their indolence long prevented
+them from acquiring, though they greatly admired that which their
+Tahitian teachers made for them. Now, however, they appear
+fairly industrious, and the women particularly so—those of the
+highest rank priding themselves on being the most skilful weavers
+of fans, mats, and baskets, and in making the strongest fibre-cloth.
+The chief men also are willing to do their full share of whatever
+work is going on, whether house-building, fishing, working on the
+plantation, or preparing the oven and heating the stones to cook
+the family dinner.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now all the chief men wear very handsome cloth, thicker and
+more glossy than that made in Fiji, though less artistic in design.
+Fifty years ago the regular dress of all the men was merely a girdle
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>of leaves—a simple form of dress, but one which was never dispensed
+with, as in many of the Papuan group; indeed, one of the
+most humiliating punishments in heathen days was to compel a
+culprit to walk naked through the village, or so to sit for hours in
+some public place. To this day a leafy girdle is considered essential
+as a bathing-dress—the long dracæna leaves being those most
+in favour. They are so arranged as to overlap one another like the
+folds of a kilt; and as they vary in colour, from brilliant gold to
+richest crimson or brightest green, the effect produced is as gay as
+any tartan. This is the favourite <i>liku</i>, or kilt, in Fiji even now.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But on great occasions in olden days, as at the present time, the
+chiefs, and their wives and daughters, wore very fine mats of the
+most delicate cream colour. They are made two or three yards
+square, and are as soft and flexible as cloth. The best are made
+from the leaves of the pandanus, scraped till there remains only a
+fibre thin as paper; but the bark of the dwarf hybiscus also yields
+an excellent fibre for weaving mats. Their manufacture is a high
+art. It is exclusively women’s work, but is one in which few
+excel, and is very tedious,—the labour of several months being
+expended on a mat which, when finished, may be worth about ten
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The strong paper-like cloth commonly worn, is much less
+troublesome to manufacture. There are several plants from which
+a good cloth-making fibre is obtained. One of them is the magnificent
+giant arum, the leaves of which often measure from 5 to 6
+feet in length, by 4 in width. Its root is large in proportion—truly
+a potato for a giant. How you would delight in the cosy
+brown cottages whose thatched roofs just peep out from among
+such leaves as these. You do realise that you are in the tropics
+when you see gigantic caladium or quaint papawas, splendid
+bananas with leaves 6 or 8 feet long, and tufts of tall maize or
+sugar-cane 15 to 20 feet high, growing luxuriantly at every
+cottage-door.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-day we passed through several villages, and were everywhere
+greeted with the kindly salutation <i>Ole Alofa</i> (<i>i.e.</i>, “Great Love”).
+We were invited to enter many houses; and though our scanty
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>vocabularies did not suffice for much conversation, a mutual inspection
+was doubtless gratifying to both parties. The language
+of the Samoans is soft, and their voices musical. To express
+thanks, they say <i>Faa-fetai</i>. The familiar <i>Vinaka! Vinaka!</i> (<i>i.e.</i>,
+“Well done!” in Fijian) is here rendered by <i>Le-lei! Le-lei!</i>
+Good-night, is <i>Tofa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, “May you sleep.” The Samoan language
+is generally described as the Italian of the Pacific—it is so
+mellifluous. It is, however, a very difficult one for a foreigner
+to acquire thoroughly, as it has three distinct dialects—the language
+used in addressing a high chief, a middle-class gentleman,
+or a peasant, being altogether different; and a further complication
+arises from the politeness which leads the highest chief to
+speak of anything referring to himself in the dialect which describes
+the lowest of the people. In Samoa, however, as in the
+other Polynesian group, one language is spoken on all the different
+isles, and there has at all times been free intercourse between them—a
+very different state of things from that which prevails in such
+groups as the New Hebrides, where each isle has a dialect—perhaps
+two or three—unknown to any of its neighbours, and where
+one tribe dares not set foot on the land of another.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Samoa has always been in many respects superior to most of
+her neighbours. Not only was she free from the reproach of
+cannibalism, but also, in great measure, from that of infanticide,
+which prevailed to so frightful an extent in neighbouring groups.
+Here children were never destroyed <i>after</i> their birth, though it is
+supposed that fully two-thirds of those born in old days, died from
+mismanagement in nursing. The sick were invariably treated with
+kindness, and old age lovingly tended. Such horrors as the burial
+of the living, as practised in Fiji in heathen times, were never
+dreamt of in Samoa.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In no land is old age more beautiful than here—partly because
+the tendency is to corpulence in place of leanness; and the eyes
+retain their clear, piercing brightness, and the countenance a kindly
+expression, which tells of the powerful good sense for which many
+of these people have been so remarkable. Certainly they are a
+handsome and attractive race.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>We noticed in all these villages the same characteristic in
+house-building which struck us at Pango-Pango—namely, that
+there is a good deal of roof supported on posts, but little of anything
+answering to a wall; so the houses resemble huge oval mushrooms,
+and home life is of a very public description. There are,
+however, movable screens of plaited cocoa-palm, which are put up
+so as to enclose the house at night, on the same principle as the
+paper walls or screens which compose the sides of a Japanese
+house, and which are generally removed in the daytime. The
+wooden screens invariably are so.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At night the interior of a Samoan house resembles a small camp,
+as large curtains of heavy native cloth are slung from the roof and
+hang like tents, within which the sleepers lie on a pile of soft fine
+mats, their necks, not their heads, resting on a bamboo or wooden
+pillow raised on two legs. Furniture is conspicuous by its total
+absence. A few baskets for fish or vegetables hang about the
+walls, and a few bundles containing cloth and mats lie in the
+corners. Cookery is done out of doors in the native ovens, for
+Samoans have no pottery of any sort; so the picturesque cooking-pots
+of a Fijian kitchen are lacking. The very few cooking or
+water pots which are sometimes seen in a chief’s house have invariably
+been imported from Fiji, and are prized accordingly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The roof itself is one of the most precious possessions of the
+isles. Ponderous as it appears, it can be divided into four parts,
+and removed from one place to another, should the family have
+occasion to flit. The great rafters are bound together by strong
+creeping-plants (vines or lianas) from the forest, and the ordinary
+thatching consists of sugar-cane leaves, strung on reeds, which are
+laid so as to overlap one another: sometimes a heavy cocoa-palm
+matting above all, secures the roof against a very high wind.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some of the Samoan homes revealed very pleasant cool-looking
+groups of comely lads and lasses lounging on their mats, making
+and smoking the invariable tiny cigarettes, consisting of a scrap of
+tobacco rolled up in a morsel of the dried banana-leaf fringe they
+wear round the waist. A few were whiling away the hot hours
+of the day by a game with small cocoa-nut shells: each player has
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>five shells, with which he tries to knock every one else’s shell from
+a given spot, leaving his own in their place. They also play a
+game something like forfeits. They sit in a circle, in the centre of
+which they spin a cocoa-nut on its thin end; and as it falls, the
+person towards whom the three black eyes point is considered to
+have lost. In the same way they cast lots to decide who shall do
+some work or go an errand. In one village a party of lads had
+assembled on the village green to play <i>totoga</i>, or reed-throwing—a
+game very common in Fiji. The reeds, which are 5 or 6 feet in
+length, have oval wooden heads about 4 inches long, and the skill
+lies in making these skim along the grass to the furthest possible
+distance.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In a green shady glade we saw a party of young men, very
+lightly clad, practising spear-throwing, aiming at the soft stems of
+banana-trees, which I suppose represented the bodies of their foes.
+In the game they take sides, and one party tries to knock out the
+spears planted by the other. Sometimes they carry very short
+spears, and in throwing these, aim so as first to strike the ground,
+whence the shaft glides upwards towards the mark. I am told
+that a feat is sometimes performed which must involve marvellous
+coolness as well as dexterity. A man, armed only with a club,
+stands up as a target, and allows all the others to throw their
+spears at him. All these he catches with his club, and turns them
+aside in quick succession. It can scarcely be called a pleasant
+game, however.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We saw several distressing cases of elephantiasis, which is here
+called <i>fè-fê</i>, and, we are told, is common. It produces hideous
+malformations; and the sufferers are pitiable objects, the arms and
+legs being hideously swollen. The natives attribute this disease to
+the action of the sun; but some Europeans who have suffered from
+it declare that it is also produced by exposure to the night air, and
+by excessive drinking of <i>kava</i>. Happily it is painless. Some of
+the Samoans suffer severely from ulcers; and we heard of some
+cases of ophthalmia.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here and there, beneath the green shade of the plantains, close
+to the houses, we noticed hillocks of white sea-sand, surmounted
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>by a low oblong cairn of wave-worn pebbles, with a layer of white
+stones on the top. These are the graves of the household. No
+Highlander is more careful to have his own bones, or those of his
+kindred, laid beside the dust of his forefathers, than is the Samoan.
+To him the idea of a common cemetery is repulsive. His desire
+is to be laid in the tomb in the garden, on land belonging to
+his family. When a man of any consequence dies, the ends of a
+canoe are cut off, and it is used as a coffin. This, however, is an
+innovation. The true old custom was to wrap the body in mats only—fine
+soft mats—and to lay it in a shallow grave, with the head to
+the east and the feet towards the setting sun. The wooden pillow
+and cocoa-nut cup of the dead were buried with him. Then
+the grave was covered with white sand, and the cairn was raised,
+always about a foot higher at the head than at the feet.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>If the deceased was a chief of any note, bonfires were kindled
+at short intervals all round the grave, and the mourners sat near
+and fed the fires till dawn; and this they did for ten consecutive
+nights. But in the case of commoners, it sufficed to keep up a
+blazing fire all night in the house, taking care that the intervening
+space was so cleared as to allow the warm light to rest on the
+grave. The household fireplace was, as it is still, merely a circular
+hollow in the middle of the house, lined with clay, only a few
+inches deep, and rarely exceeding a yard in diameter. As the
+house has no walls, there is no difficulty about smoke, but considerable
+danger of setting fire to the surrounding mats. Nowadays,
+the fire in the house burns only for warmth, and for the
+convenience of lighting cigarettes; but in heathen days a blazing
+fire was kindled every evening in honour of the gods, to whom the
+house-father commended the family and all their interests.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Near one of the villages we caught a glimpse of a dark olive-green
+snake, the first I have seen for many a day. They are not
+quite so rare here as in Fiji, but are equally innocent; and the
+girls take them up without hesitation, and play with them, and
+even twine them round their necks. We also saw some wood-pigeons
+and a few paroquets, and lovely little honey-birds, with
+crimson-and-black plumage.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>As we crossed the river a frightened water-hen darted from
+among the bushes—swallows skimmed lightly through the air,
+and several exquisite blue-and-yellow kingfishers glanced in the
+sunlight, as they flashed in pursuit of bright-coloured insects.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Flying foxes are very numerous, and, as they hang suspended
+from the boughs, head downwards, have the effect of some curious
+fruit. They are excellent to eat, as we discovered in Ceylon; but
+most Europeans have a prejudice against them—I cannot see why,
+as they feed on the best and ripest fruits. I quite understand the
+objection to the little insectivorous bats, which cluster in thousands
+among the rocks, clinging one to another, till they appear like
+brown ropes. The smell of these is simply disgusting.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These are not the only night-birds of Samoa. I am told there
+are a good many owls. I did not, however, see any, neither was I
+so fortunate as to see the Samoan turtle-dove, with its exquisite
+plumage of peacock-green blending with crimson. Green paroquets
+abound, and a small scarlet and black bird.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When these isles were first discovered, an indigenous dog was
+found in the mountains—a small, dark-grey animal, with very little
+hair, short crooked legs, long back, and large erect ears. It fed on
+bread-fruit and yams, having no other animal on which to prey,
+with the exception of the little native rat. The natives very
+naturally considered both dog and rat as dainty dishes for high
+days. Happily they contented themselves with these, and held
+cannibalism in abhorrence. The wild dog was also found on
+Hawaii, Tahiti, and New Zealand.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On some of the isles there was a native breed of pigs, lanky,
+long-legged creatures. Like the rats and dogs, they made a virtue
+of necessity, and were strict vegetarians. They were found in
+Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, and the New Hebrides. These are the
+only three quadrupeds that appear to have been indigenous on any
+of the Polynesian isles; and now all three are extinct, having died
+out on the introduction of their foreign kindred, in obedience to
+that sad fate which appears to rule the destinies both of men and
+beasts.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The people whose ideal quadruped was a pig, very naturally
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>judged of all imported animals by this standard: so a goat or a
+cow became known as a horned pig; a horse, a man-carrying pig;
+a cat, a mewing pig. When the first goat was landed on one of
+the Hervey Isles, where even pigs were unknown, the natives
+called one another to come and see “the wonderful bird with
+great teeth growing out of its head!”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The most interesting aboriginal inhabitant of Samoa is a little
+kind of dodo, or tooth-billed pigeon, here called <i>Manu-mea</i>.<a id='r8'></a><a href='#f8' class='c017'><sup>[8]</sup></a>
+Though now rare, it is still to be found in the forests, generally
+hiding in the tops of the highest trees. The natives say that it
+used to frequent the ground, but that since the introduction of
+foreign cats and rats, which have proved its deadly foes, it has
+instinctively retreated to safer quarters. Its diminished numbers
+may probably, however, be attributed to the high value set on it
+by the Samoan epicures. It is said to be closely allied to the
+extinct dodo. Its body resembles that of a pigeon, but its head
+and beak are those of a parrot. Its general plumage is dark-red,
+the head and breast being grey. Eyes, legs, and feet are all red,
+and the beak is reddish gold. When captured, it is generally very
+savage, and bites severely, but it is occasionally tamed, and feeds
+on fruit.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Formerly the sporting world of Samoa found its chief pastime,
+not in pigeon-shooting, but in pigeon-catching, which sounds a
+very innocent amusement, but which was indulged in to such
+excess that the teachers found it necessary to discourage it, as it
+led to the schools being quite deserted, and all work at a standstill,
+for months at a time—the favourite season being from June
+till August. The Hurlingham of Samoa was a large circular clearing
+in the forest—(there were many such). Thither the whole
+population of a district would resort, having previously prepared
+great stores of provision. Grandfathers and little children, but
+especially young men and maidens, delighted in the dove-festival,
+dear to happy lovers. They erected temporary huts in the forest,
+and there took up their abode for a prolonged picnic. Many an
+idyl of the forest might have been sung by the flower-wreathed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>minstrels of Samoa; and the wide world could offer no lovelier
+scene than the exquisite tropical forests of these happy isles, where
+no hurtful creature lies hidden. But I fear that even here the
+idyls were not free from occasional touches of shadow; though
+doubtless there were reflected lights, enough to relieve any transient
+shade, and lovers’ quarrels were forgotten in new loves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All round the central clearing, hiding-places were constructed
+and covered with green boughs. In each of these a sportsman
+was concealed, holding in one hand a stick to which a tame pigeon
+was attached by a string some ten yards in length. These pigeons
+were all trained to fly round and round; and the wild wood-doves
+seeing so many of their fellows circling round one spot, naturally
+supposed there was something good to be shared, and ventured
+near, when, from each ambush a long slim bamboo was thrust
+forth, with a net attached, and the stranger was forthwith captured.
+Of course, he who caught the largest number was the hero of the
+hour, and to him was presented the evening feast—at which baked
+pigeons figured largely. Some, however, were preserved alive, to
+be trained as decoy-birds, as this pigeon-taming was a favourite
+occupation at all seasons of the year,—indeed is so at the present
+time; for the Samoan takes as much pride in his doves and
+pigeons, as a Briton does in his hounds and horses. The birds
+are trained in such habits of idleness that they will not even feed
+themselves, but sit patiently waiting till their master actually puts
+their daily bread—yam, banana, or cocoa-nut—into their open
+mouths.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Samoan dove and its wooing furnished the theme for one
+of the prettiest of the native dances. The girls, while gently
+gliding to and fro, utter the low soft call of the female dove, their
+mates answering from afar, in deeper resounding tones, and circling
+around, ever drawing nearer and nearer, till the wooers and the
+wooed unite in a <i>ballet</i> of much graceful fluttering.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We got back to Leone just in time to see the ecclesiastical procession
+start from the old church to the site of the new one. At
+the consecration service, the bishop wore his mitre and a very
+gorgeous vestment of patchwork, presented by the Samoan ladies.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>I grieve to have to record that in leading the procession round the
+foundations of the new church, he made the turn <i>widdershins</i>.<a id='r9'></a><a href='#f9' class='c017'><sup>[9]</sup></a>
+I believe that this is contrary to ecclesiastical custom—and of
+course to my Scottish mind it suggested grievous misfortunes in
+store.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>An immense crowd of people had assembled, and the influence
+of European bad taste was too apparent in several cases; as for
+instance, in the uniform selected by a large college of young men,
+and provided by themselves—namely, white trousers, magenta
+blouse, and sky-blue waist-band! The girls wore white calico
+<i>sulus</i><a id='r10'></a><a href='#f10' class='c017'><sup>[10]</sup></a> and pale-green pinafores, which, with their hair dyed yellow,
+were becoming. But they looked a thousand times better when,
+at a school festival held later, they exchanged the white skirts for
+very fine cream-coloured mats embroidered round the edge with
+scarlet wool, necklaces of large scarlet berries and green leaves, and
+scarlet hybiscus and green leaves in their hair. They went through
+some very pretty school exercises, illustrated by much graceful
+action.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then some very fine women came up, wearing handsome new
+mats of hybiscus fibre, which, when newly prepared, is pure white,
+and after a while becomes creamy in hue. They presented us all
+with very pretty fans of woven grass.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then came a presentation of much food, including about thirty
+pigs, which were, ere long, devoured by the assembled multitude.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The bishop was terribly exhausted by all this prolonged exertion
+and much talking; but as an instance of his never-failing kindness
+to everybody, I may tell you, that when the school-feast was over,
+I came to this, my special nest, remarking to some one that I was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span><i>fatiguée</i>, forgetting that the word may be interpreted as “not
+well.” So when the kind bishop came home to his much needed
+rest, he heard this, and, tired as he was, at once came to this house,
+which is at some distance, bringing a great roll of native cloth to
+soften my mat couch, and chocolate and other little delicacies,
+which he thought I might fancy. I <i>was</i> so sorry,—but it illustrates
+the beautiful unselfishness of that genial nature.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-morrow we are to leave this lovely isle Tutuila and cross to
+the great isle of Upolu, on which is situated Apia, the capital.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This group, which in our schoolroom days we were taught to
+call the Navigators Isles, but which its inhabitants know as Samoa,
+consists of eight principal isles and several small islets. By far
+the largest are Savaii and Upolu—the former being 250 miles in
+circumference, the latter 200. Both are very beautiful, having
+high mountain-ranges, visible at a distance of 70 miles, and richly
+wooded. They are separated by a strait about 12 miles wide, the
+mouth of which is, as it were, guarded by two small islands,
+Manono and Aborima.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The former lies close to Upolu, and one reef encircles both. It
+is the home of some of the high chiefs, and is an exceedingly fertile
+little island, clothed with the richest verdure. It is about five
+miles in circumference.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Aborima, as seen from the sea, appears to be only a huge precipitous
+mass of rock, rising to a height of 200 or 300 feet. It is about
+two miles in circumference, and is probably the crater of an extinct
+volcano, for it is shaped like the hollow of a hand, whence it
+derives its name. It is inaccessible, except at one small opening
+between the steep cliffs; but passing between these you enter an
+amphitheatre, which, from the base to the summit, presents an
+unbroken mass of tropical vegetation—a most marvellous transformation
+scene from the desolate crags of the seaboard. A charming
+little village nestles beneath the fruit-bearing trees in the basin.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This natural stronghold belongs to the chiefs of Manono, who
+use it in time of war as a safe refuge for their families and storehouse
+for their property. All they need do, is to guard the narrow
+entrance, which they can either defend by dropping rocks on the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>invaders, or by so placing ropes across it that they can overturn
+their canoes. So, although the warlike men of Manono have occasionally
+been driven from their own isle, they have always found
+a secure retreat in this lovely rock-girt fortress, where they take
+good care always to have abundant stores of food ready for emergencies.
+That they need such a place of refuge, you may infer
+from the fact that when they were first visited by white men,
+about fifty years ago, a basket was suspended from the ridge-pole
+of a sort of war-temple, and in it were preserved 197 stones, which
+were the record of the number of battles which the men of
+Manono had fought up to that date!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I do not know how many of these isles we are to visit. The
+more the better, since all are beautiful. But whenever  I admire
+anything, the invariable reply is, “You like this? Ah, wait till
+you see Tahiti!” Evidently it is the ideal isle. No one will
+believe that I am <i>not</i> going on. Indeed I am beginning scarcely
+to believe it myself. Well, we’ll see when we reach Apia.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VII.<br> <span class='c009'>VANQUISHED CHIEFS OF THE PULETOA FACTION UNDER PROTECTION OF THE UNION-JACK—CONVENT SCHOOL—“BULLY” HAYES—POSTAL DIFFICULTIES—HOUSE OF GODEFFROY—VILLAGE OF MALINUNU—VEGETABLES AND FISH—ADVANTAGES OF ANGLO-AMERICAN COMPANIES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>British Consulate,</span></div>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Apia, Isle Upolu</span>, <i>Monday, 24th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We arrived here yesterday morning, and I confess that, having
+heard so much of the beauty of this place, I am rather disappointed.
+It is not to be compared with Levuka<a id='r11'></a><a href='#f11' class='c017'><sup>[11]</sup></a> from a picturesque
+point of view. A very long village, scattered round a horse-shoe
+bay, with cocoa-palms <i>ad libitum</i>, and background of rather shapeless
+rich green wooded hills, part of which are under cultivation.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>Certainly the hills do gradually ascend to a height of fully 4000
+feet, so they are not to be despised; but our eyes are satiated with
+the beauty of volcanic peaks and crags, rising from an ocean of
+foliage wellnigh as rich as this. Doubtless if we have time to
+explore the interior, we shall find no lack of loveliness; indeed
+even from the harbour we could distinguish one grand waterfall,
+like a line of flashing quicksilver on the dark-green mountain.
+But to reach it, would involve a long day of hard walking, such
+as I could not attempt, even were the sun less powerful than it is
+to-day. This town, which is the capital of Samoa, consists of
+about two hundred houses and stores—German, English, and
+American consulates, a Roman Catholic college and cathedral, a
+Congregational chapel, and two newspaper offices, representing the
+stormy politics of the isles—namely the ‘Samoan Times’ and the
+‘South Sea Gazette.’</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The strong point of Apia is the excellence of its harbour—a
+point which the German traders have made good use of, in securing
+their own right to a large part of it.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As soon as we anchored, M. Pinart escorted me, first to call on
+Dr and Mrs G. A. Turner of the London Medical Mission, and
+then to H.B.M. Consulate, which was my destination—the wife of
+the consul, Mrs Liardet, and her mother, Mrs Bell, having been
+our friends in Fiji, before they were sent to this place. We found
+that Mr L. had just sailed for Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon
+on the best course to follow in the present critical state of affairs,
+when every man’s hand is seemingly against his neighbour, and
+each trying to induce the natives to espouse his individual quarrels
+as well as their own. So the whole community are at loggerheads.
+The whites are mostly riff-raff of a very low order; and in short,
+the Samoa of to-day is simply a reproduction of what Fiji was
+before annexation. Many of the scamps who are now working its
+strings are the identical men who, finding Fiji no longer a happy
+land of misrule, have just moved on to the next group, there to
+repeat the intrigues of their previous life.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As I have explained to you, the Samoans are divided into two
+great factions, betwixt whom there is war to the death; and, unfortunately,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>this ill feeling is kept up by the utterly unprincipled
+whites—German, English, and American—who have their own
+interests to serve, and are quite unscrupulous as to the means they
+employ. So, thanks to their machinations, there was a sharp
+skirmish about three months ago actually in the town, close to
+this house, and to the convent, where the French Sisters have a
+large and excellent school for girls. There appears no doubt that
+it began by a treacherous onset unawares, instigated by a scoundrelly
+American. The fight lasted all night, just behind this house.
+Sixty men of the Puletoa faction were slain, and their heads were
+cut off and sent to friendly chiefs as delicate offerings.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>You can imagine the horror of that night to the ladies here,
+hearing the noise of battle, the firing of muskets, and the shouts
+of the warriors, but unable to distinguish through the darkness
+what was going on. In the first glimmer of dawn they looked
+out, and saw a great crowd of poor terrified refugees of the Puletoa
+party crouching round the flag-staff here (at the consulate), claiming
+British protection. The Union-jack that was run up that
+morning has never since been lowered day or night, as the conquerors
+have as yet given no definite promise to spare the lives of
+the vanquished. Others, who had hidden in the scrub, have since
+crept in, under cover of night; and from that day to the present,
+the fifty men (great chiefs and their followers), besides wives and
+children, are living within the very confined grounds of the
+consulate.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The men never dare to venture outside these bounds, knowing
+that for long the place was surrounded by guards of the enemy,
+watching to shoot any of the refugees who might venture to step
+over the enclosure, which at the time of the fight was only partially
+fenced in. The women and children are, however, allowed to
+go out and forage. The principal chiefs sleep in the dining-room
+and passages, and wherever they can find room to lie down; and
+when I come to my room at night, I have to pick my way in and
+out among the sleepers. But the majority of the followers have
+built a large native house in the garden, where they sleep; and as
+they dare not go out even to bathe, they have dug a deep well for
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>their own use; and Mrs Liardet has given them her tin-lined
+piano-case, which they have converted into a very good comfortable
+bath. They have sunk it near the well, and fenced it round,
+so it answers capitally, and has the merit of being quite a novel
+use for a piano-case!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All their arrangements are very tidy; and they are a fine, dignified
+lot—especially the chiefs; and all are so very nice and respectful,
+that their presence in and about the house is not half such an
+inconvenience as you might imagine. Indeed Mrs Liardet and
+Mrs Bell have grown quite fond of them; and they in their turn
+delight to play with Mrs L.’s baby, who is a bright little laughing
+pet. Indeed they act as a splendid guard, and are always quiet
+and well-behaved. But some of the poor fellows have terrible
+coughs, which keep themselves and us awake half the night; and
+being awake, they do talk a good deal, which diminishes the chance
+of our falling asleep again.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They are a handsome race, pleasant to the eye, and happily do
+not, like so many of the Tongan chiefs, affect foreign dress. They
+either wear fine mats, or else very thick handsome native cloth of
+bread-fruit or paper-mulberry fibre. Very few wear any covering
+on the shoulders, so the fine bronzed figures are seen to full advantage;
+and as I look down from this verandah I see on every
+side of me such groups as an artist would love to paint. Picturesque
+men, women, and children, bright sunlight and gay blossoms,
+rich foliage, and palm-leaves flashing like quicksilver as they wave
+in the breeze, framing the blue waters of the harbour, where the
+foreign ships lie anchored.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But all these poor people do look so sad, and no wonder; for
+even if their lives are saved, all their property is lost, and many of
+these were the wealthy nobles of the land. Some people here say
+that they might now safely return to their usual life; but others,
+equally old inhabitants, and equally well informed, say they are in
+as great danger as ever. It seems just touch-and-go whether a few
+days will see the renewal of a very bloody war, or whether all will
+agree to an unconditional cession to England. There is a strong
+impression that if Sir Arthur Gordon were to arrive here now, the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>latter would be certain; and that it is the only possible panacea
+for poor Samoa’s wounds.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Within a stone’s-throw of this house lie the grounds of the
+French convent, where four nice ladylike French Sisters, and two
+Samoan Sisters, devote themselves to the care of about sixty native
+girls—bright, pleasant-looking lassies. The native Sisters appear
+to be thoughtful and devout women. There is an atmosphere of
+peace and calm within the convent grounds strangely in contrast
+with all the disquiet which prevails outside. Life here is quite
+Dr Watts’s ideal—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“In books, and work, and healthful play,</div>
+      <div class='line in2'>Let my first years be passed.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I can answer for the joyousness of the merry games that were
+played beneath the cool green shade of banana and bread-fruit
+trees, and also for the excellent work done in graver moments.
+Very pleasant, too, are the sweet young voices, trained in their
+singing by one of the Sisters, who is herself an admirable musician
+and a good vocalist. They were all greatly interested in
+hearing news of the Sisters at Tonga, which I was happily able to
+give them. Great is the delight of every one here at the return
+of the bishop, to whom all who desire peace seem to look with
+trust.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Do you remember my telling you, when the Samoan chiefs came
+to Fiji to consult Sir A. Gordon, that they brought with them two
+pretty, high-caste girls, Faioo and Umoo, with whom we made great
+friends? I found them both here, and they seemed overjoyed on recognising
+me. They are both girls of good (Samoan) character, and
+daughters of high chiefs. Their fathers, who are in the victorious
+government party, likewise recognised and cordially welcomed me.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A considerable number of the bright merry girls at the good
+Sisters’ school are half-castes—the children of Samoan mothers by
+French, English, or German fathers. Amongst these, two gentle,
+modest-looking lassies were pointed out to me as the daughters
+of the notorious “Bully” Hayes, of whose piratical exploits I have
+heard many a highly seasoned yarn from the older residents in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>Fiji, where he occasionally appeared, as he did in all the other
+groups, as a very erratic comet, coming, and especially vanishing,
+when least expected, each time in a different ship, of which by
+<i>some</i> means he had contrived to get possession; always engaged in
+successful trade with stolen goods; ever bland and winning in
+manner, dressed like a gentleman, decidedly handsome, with long
+silky brown beard; with a temper rarely ruffled, but with an iron
+will, for a more thoroughgoing scoundrel never sailed the seas.
+The friend who trusted to his courteous promises was his certain
+victim. If he was in the way, he was as likely as not to have his
+throat cut, or to be turned adrift on a desert isle. If owner of the
+vessel, he was probably landed to make arrangements for the sale of
+his cargo, while Bully Hayes was already on his way to some distant
+port to sell the said cargo for his own benefit, and then trade with
+the ship, till it became inconvenient to hold her, when she was deliberately
+scuttled.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is about twenty years since this notorious pirate first made
+his appearance in the Pacific, when for some reason he was landed
+on the Sandwich Isles, apparently against his will. He was then
+accompanied by Mrs Hayes, the mother of these two girls, who
+now lives at Apia in respected solitude. For many years her lord
+has cheered his voyages with companions from all manner of isles,
+whom he has contrived to dispose of so soon as metal more attractive
+presented itself.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At last this inhuman miscreant has met his doom. Only a few
+days ago a vessel came into port bringing the news of his death.
+As he was entering his cabin he was knocked on the head with a
+marline-spike by his mate, who had suffered brutal ill-treatment
+at his hands, and so, determined on revenge. I doubt if even one
+woman was found to mourn him. It was a meet ending to such a
+career.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A messenger has just run here in hot haste to tell me that a
+ship is in the act of sailing, and will take this letter. This morning
+we asked in vain if there were any chance of a mail, and
+were assured that there was none. I can barely catch this—so
+good-bye.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span><i>Same Evening.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Truly those whites of Samoa are aggravating Ishmaelites—all
+striving to outwit one another, without one thought for the common
+weal. Ever since we anchored here we have been trying to
+learn whether any vessels were about to leave the harbour, and
+this very day we sent an express to the German consul, who replied
+that he believed it would be three weeks before a vessel
+sailed. But it seems that he represents Godeffroy’s house, whereas
+this ship belongs to Hedeman &#38; Rouget; and all these firms are so
+jealous of one another, and so afraid of being asked to carry letters
+that their ships all try to sneak out of harbour without giving
+notice to the postal authorities.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Dr Turner heard of this chance by the merest accident, through
+a grateful patient, and sent me word immediately, but being at the
+other end of a long beach, the information reached me just too late.
+Now weeks may elapse before there is another chance.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Just now I mentioned the house of Godeffroy of Hamburg.<a id='r12'></a><a href='#f12' class='c017'><sup>[12]</sup></a>
+This place is the headquarters of that great firm, which absorbs
+the principal trade of the Pacific. There is “neither speech nor
+language” where the name of this omnivorous firm is not heard.
+At Cochin-China in the north-west, Valparaiso in the south-east,
+and Samoa midway, they have established centres, from which
+their emissaries radiate in every direction, and their vast fleet of
+trading vessels are for ever on the alert to enlarge the field of their
+operations. They are the Graballs of this side of the world.
+Hearing of the profitable trade carried on here by Messrs Brander
+&#38; Hort of Tahiti, they decided to follow in their footsteps, and
+ere long succeeded in effectually supplanting them.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This was partly effected by artfully fostering the intertribal
+disputes, which were ever smouldering among the Samoans, and
+then liberally supplying the combatants with arms and ammunition
+from their own arsenal at Liège (Belgium). For these useful imports
+they accepted payment in broad tracts of the most fertile
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>lands in Samoa, where they now own about 25,000 acres of the
+finest alluvial soil and richest forest, all intersected by streams and
+rivers, acquired at a cost of about three shillings an acre! On this
+land they are establishing large plantations, upwards of 4000 acres
+being devoted to cotton. To work these they employ about 1000
+“foreign labour,” imported from the multitudinous groups with
+which their vessels trade.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here, at Apia, they own a first-class harbour, and have established
+a regular shipbuilding-yard, wherein to refit old vessels and
+build new ones. And in many a remote isle, in various parts
+of the Pacific, they have acquired lands and harbours, to secure
+central points of operation. In the Ellis group they have bought
+the isle of Nukufetau, on account of its excellent harbour; and
+(passing onwards towards their original establishment at Cochin)
+they have secured 3000 acres on the isle of Yap, in the Pelew
+group, to the west of the Caroline Isles. I believe there is not
+one group in the Central Pacific where they have not established
+trading relations. They are said to have agents resident on
+every isle where there is any possibility of gain, and where the
+natives will tolerate the presence of a white man. Naturally the
+majority of these are by no means men calculated to improve the
+people; in many cases they are taken from the riff-raff, who in
+past years have sought in the isles an asylum from civilised laws,
+and by long residence have acquired a thorough knowledge of the
+habits and language of the natives. These men receive no salary.
+They are simply provided with the materials to build a solid house,
+and a supply of whatever trade is likely to prove acceptable to the
+people as barter, and are expected to accumulate an equivalent in
+produce within a reasonable period. No awkward questions as to
+character are asked. The <i>sine quâ non</i> is a knowledge of the
+language, a power of discreet silence, and a capability of not
+quarrelling with the natives. To further the latter requirement,
+their employers stipulate that every agent of theirs shall have his
+own “establishment,” no matter from what isle he may import
+his companion. But they resolutely refuse to sanction the legal
+marriage of any German subject with a native woman.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>Nor is this the only point in which this mighty anti-Christian
+firm opposes itself to all efforts for the improvement of the people.
+To all their widely scattered agents one clear direction is given:
+“Never assist missionaries either by word or deed, but, wheresoever
+you may find them, use your best influence with the natives
+to obstruct and exclude them.”<a id='r13'></a><a href='#f13' class='c017'><sup>[13]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is interesting to find so plain an acknowledgment of the
+principles which animate so large a section of the mercantile communities
+in all quarters of the earth. In every case the opposition
+seems due to the same cause—a covert hatred to the teaching
+which discountenances immorality of all sorts, including that of
+exchanging bad goods at fictitious prices for useful products. It
+matters little whether blue beads and muskets, or opium (with a
+background of English artillery), be the goods to be disposed of,
+the principles involved, and the consequent antagonism to every
+agency for good, are necessarily the same.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>How well the agents and shipmasters carry out their instructions
+may be inferred from such an experience as that of the mission-ship
+Morning Star, which, a few years ago, made her way to the
+Kingsmill group on the equator. A pilot came out to meet her,
+and made her anchor three miles from the village, desiring that no
+one should venture to land without permission from the king.
+The latter, on hearing that it was a missionary ship, recalled the
+counsels given to him by the captains of various trading vessels,
+who, he said, had all warned him that should a missionary ever
+come to the isles he must on no account be permitted to land, as
+he would shortly bewitch both king and people. So the wary
+monarch vowed that no such sorcerer should set foot in his realms;
+and he accordingly sent a message to the strangers to say, that if
+they stood in need of anything he could give them, they should
+have it, but they must go right away, and never come back.
+Thus the unrighteous counsels prevailed, and the true friends were
+banished at the bidding of the selfish money-grubbers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is unfortunately only too notorious that wherever, as in those
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>northern isles, the natives have derived their first impressions of
+civilisation from traders, they have invariably deteriorated, and
+the white influence has been exerted to exclude all improving
+influences. On the other hand, throughout Polynesia, the missionaries
+were the first to occupy the field, where traders dared
+not venture, and in every case they so tamed the fierce savages
+that commerce naturally followed in their wake and under their
+protection. Yet even here no debt of gratitude is considered due
+to the successors of those early pioneers; and the antagonism of
+the traders to the missionaries is unfortunately notorious.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From what I have told you, you can gather that the transactions
+of the house of Godeffroy are carried out on a pretty extensive
+scale; and as all European goods are sold at a clear profit of a
+hundred per cent, exclusive of all expenses, they contrive to heap
+up riches at a very rapid rate. One of their peculiarities is, that
+they never insure their ships. They pay their shipmasters very
+low salaries, rarely exceeding £5 a month, but supplement this
+sum by allowing them a commission of three per cent on the net
+profits of each voyage.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another peculiarity, which is particularly annoying to the white
+community (and this is a point on which I speak feelingly), is that
+of despatching their ships from Apia with sealed orders, which are
+not opened till the vessel reaches a certain latitude, so that no one
+on board knows her destination. Consequently, however great a boon
+the chance of a passage might be to any person detained in the
+isles, or how valuable an opportunity of sending letters, ship after
+ship leaves this harbour without giving a hint of her intentions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The house of Godeffroy has not been the only purchaser of vast
+tracts of land in these isles. The Polynesian Land Company
+(whose claims to enormous tracts in the Fijian isles were somewhat
+upset by annexation, and the consequent necessity of proving their
+titles to their broad acres) carried on very pretty land speculations
+in Samoa, where they profess to have legally acquired about
+300,000 acres on the four largest and most fertile islands. Their
+leader is a Mr Stewart, one of two brothers who have struck out
+for themselves very remarkable careers in these seas. The other
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>brother was a well-known character in Tahiti, who blew a brilliant
+bubble company, which for a while dazzled the world of the
+South Seas—till the bubble burst, and the blower died miserably.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate</span>, <i>Tuesday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yesterday evening we were sitting in the verandah enjoying the
+coolness of the lovely evening, when we heard very pretty singing
+in a garden near. Some gentlemen who were calling took me to
+the spot, where a large party of Samoan girls were sitting on the
+grass beneath the palms and rosy oleanders. The singing and
+surroundings were all attractive. Indeed it is difficult to look on
+such a peaceful scene, and realise how very recently it was a hideous
+battle-field; and sad indeed to think how few days may elapse
+ere the grass—to-day so green—may be stained with the blood of
+all these fine men. In Samoan warfare the aim of each warrior is
+to secure as many heads as possible. Hence the sixty ghastly
+heads which were carried from here to all parts of the group only
+three months ago. But before they are so scattered, it is customary
+for the victors to pile them up in a hideous pyramid, surmounted
+by the head of the highest chief slain. An ugly feature in
+war here, is the practice of a large body of men landing at dead of
+night at some distance from an unguarded settlement, and stealing
+stealthily in, to surprise the unsuspecting sleepers: then suddenly
+rushing into the houses, slice off every man a head, of grey-haired
+patriarch or slumbering infant boy, and dashing down to the shore,
+where their canoes have meanwhile arrived, push off ere the
+startled villagers are sufficiently awake to arm for defence or vengeance.
+Only male heads are required. It would be considered
+cowardly to kill a woman. Nevertheless these are sometimes desperately
+wounded in the struggle to defend their little ones from
+their ruthless assassins.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In old days, after a battle, such of the headless bodies as were
+recognised received decent burial; the others were left as carrion,
+a prey to the village dogs and pigs. The influence of Christianity
+now secures burial for all. Strange to say, it also secures a rigid
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>observance of the Sabbath, on which day the belligerents, by common
+consent, abstain from fighting, and allow teachers and missionaries
+to pass freely in and out of their camps, holding religious
+services in which all join, each no doubt invoking the aid of the
+God of battles on his own behalf. I doubt whether many of
+the nations among whom Christianity has been long established,
+would pause in their battling from any deference to the day of
+rest. And though these raids and distributions of heads savour
+rather of Jewish than of Christian practices, I think the British
+Isles could have furnished pretty close parallels in the days of
+Border forays, when a foeman’s head, stuck on a halbert, was
+reckoned no mean trophy; or when one who was considered a
+traitor had fallen by the headsman’s axe, and his head and quartered
+body were stuck on pikes—a ghastly spectacle for all men—while
+his entrails were thrown into the fire. So you need not decry the
+Christianity of these poor Samoans, because the old war-spirit still
+stirs in their veins.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have just had a visit from Mrs G. A. Turner, who most kindly
+called to ask whether I would like to accompany her husband to a
+lovely place, twelve miles from here, where he expects to have a
+large meeting of the people. It is very tempting, and being a
+three days’ trip, would give me time for some sketches; but there
+is so much that is interesting here, that I have reluctantly declined.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After luncheon Mr Pritchard took me along the shore to Malinunu,
+the village on a peninsula, where the unfortunate skirmish
+occurred between the Samoans and the men of the Barracouta. It is
+now the seat of government, and here the <i>Taimua</i> and the <i>Faipule</i>,
+who are the triumphant faction, reign. One of their English instigators
+occupies the house of Malietoa, the conquered king, and
+lives under the special protection of the men whom he has beguiled.
+It is a tidy village of thatched houses, smothered in bananas and
+tall sugar-cane.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Wednesday Night.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have been exploring all the near neighbourhood. Passing
+through the grounds of the Fathers’ house (where the good bishop
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>gave us welcome), we ascended a pretty steep hill to the Catholic
+college for young men—a large and very orderly establishment.
+It was a pretty walk, through woods and cultivated ground.
+Everything seems to grow here, and some plantations are worked
+on a large scale with imported foreign labour. Cotton, sugar-cane,
+maize, coffee, nutmegs, cinnamon, arrowroot, tapioca, millet, barley,
+and even rice, of a sort which does not require irrigation, and can
+be grown on high levels. Vegetables of all sorts thrive in the
+French gardens, telling of industry and care; but somehow here,
+as in Fiji, European flowers do not repay the trouble expended on
+them, except for old association. Their place is taken by the
+datura, with its heavy-scented, white, trumpet-shaped blossoms,
+the gay pride of Barbadoes, various fragrant jessamines, and hybiscus
+of all colours.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In all these volcanic soils, water, and water only, is needed to
+convert the thirsty dust into most fertile earth. Here, what with
+perennial springs and an excessive rainfall, the mountains have an
+abundant water-supply; and in every ravine a clear sparkling
+stream is fed by countless rills and waterfalls, cool and delicious.
+But so dry and thirsty are the lower hills, that the generous
+streams, giving instead of receiving, are actually absorbed ere they
+reach the seaboard, and only a bed of dry stones marks the channel,
+by which in occasional floods the torrents rush into the ocean.
+Consequently all cultivation on the lower levels involves artificial
+irrigation.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The fish supply here seems good. There are rock-fish in endless
+variety,—albicore, bonito, and a sort of salmon with white flesh,
+and a very delicate fish called the gar-fish, with a projecting lower
+jaw. When this creature grows large and strong, it sometimes
+unintentionally proves a very dangerous neighbour, as when
+startled by the approach of a canoe, it is very apt to spring on
+board with such force as seriously to injure any person whom it
+strikes with its sword-like jaw. I believe that nude natives have
+actually been killed by those frightened creatures. The fishers
+here still practise the somewhat unfair method of stupefying fish
+by throwing into the water the bruised seeds of the <i>hutu</i>, or Barringtonia
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>tree. Turtle abound, both the hawk’s-bill, which yields
+the tortoise-shell of commerce, and the green. Prawns, shrimps,
+and eels are found in the rivers, while the coral-reefs yield all
+manner of shell-fish, lobsters, and crabs. I hear that oysters are
+to be had, but have not seen any.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Speaking of the reef, the natives say that they can foretell a
+storm, hours before its approach, by noticing the echini<a id='r14'></a><a href='#f14' class='c017'><sup>[14]</sup></a> crawling
+into snug holes where they may lie secure, undisturbed by the
+raging waters. “The sea roars and the echini listen,” is the Samoan
+proverb to describe prudence.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have just heard with great interest that the <i>balolo</i> (here called
+<i>palolo</i>)—those curious sea-worms, concerning whose annual visit to
+Fiji I wrote to you at the time—also honour the reef of Apia with
+a call, just in the same mysterious manner, rising to the surface of
+the sea for a couple of hours before sunrise on one given day,
+which the natives can always calculate beforehand, so as to be out
+by midnight, watching for the first glimmer of dawn, when, sure
+enough, countless myriads of black and green worms, thin as
+threads, and perhaps a yard long, come to the surface—an easy
+prey to the joyous crowd of men and girls, who scoop them up in
+baskets, nets, gourds, anything they can get hold of, each trying
+who can collect the biggest share of the writhing, wriggling worms
+which, when baked in a banana-leaf, are esteemed a most delicious
+dainty, and do taste something like spinach and salt water, with a
+<i>soupçon</i> of lobster. But the extraordinary thing about them is
+their only rising once a year for two hours, and never mistaking
+their set time, then disappearing totally till the following year.
+In Samoa, I am told, the day falls in August. In Fiji a few come
+one morning in October, but their grand day is about 25th
+November.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This afternoon Captain Aube kindly lent us his whale-boat to
+take us across the creek to Matautu, which is the further end of
+the settlement. We went to make some small purchases at the
+various stores, chiefly to see them. One of these belongs to the
+celebrated Stewart, whose partner being an American, the firm has
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>the advantage of flying either the Union-jack or the Stars and
+Stripes, as may best suit the tide of affairs. At present this house
+is divided against itself; and a few days ago the agent of the
+American partner declared the place to be the sole property of <i>his</i>
+superior, and having sealed everything with the consular seal, he
+ran up the Stars and Stripes. Being, however, obliged to go to
+Fiji on business, Stewart’s agent has broken these precious seals,
+and in the name of <i>his</i> chief, has hoisted the ensign of Britain.
+This is a fair sample of the sort of pull-devil, pull-baker way in
+which business is conducted in this curious community. It leads
+to endless complications, as each party invariably appeals to his
+consul to visit his opponent with all the terrors of the law. At the
+present moment Stewart’s store is a centre of interest, because the
+American consul wishes forcibly to remove thence a certain Captain
+Wright, a citizen of the United States, who defies his authority,
+and whom we saw sitting peacefully in the store, under the shadow
+of the Union-jack.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The coin chiefly in circulation here is the Chilian and Bolivian
+dollar, of very debased silver, commonly known in the Pacific as
+“iron-money.” Its introduction was one of the sharp speculations
+of Messrs Godeffroy, who obtained an enormous amount at a very
+cheap rate, and therewith commenced trade with the Samoans, who
+accept the dollar as the equivalent of 100 cents, or the half dollar
+as 50 cents, whereas two half dollars or one whole, are barely worth
+75 cents. So the profit on this little job was considerable—and if
+it <i>has</i> added one more straw to poor Samoa’s burden of trouble,
+that is no concern of the traders.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On our homeward way we called on a very friendly lady, who,
+with her daughters, was engaged in preparing an immense array of
+excellent pastry, for a great picnic “<i>Fa-Samoa</i>”<a id='r15'></a><a href='#f15' class='c017'><sup>[15]</sup></a> which is to be
+given to-morrow in honour of us, the visitors. Then we went on
+to the convent, to invite the good Sisters to join us, and bring all
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>their girls. I am sure they will enjoy the chance of a French talk
+with their countrymen.</p>
+
+<hr class='c016'>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is quite impossible to get at the truth about anything here.
+Another German vessel went out of harbour this morning. No
+one knew she was going till she was actually under way. I can
+only hope that my letter may reach you some day, by some route!
+Meanwhile, good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER VIII<br> <span class='c009'>THE ISHMAELITES OF THE PACIFIC—INJUDICIOUS INTERVENTION—FA-SAMOA PICNIC—A TORCHLIGHT WALK—TRAINING COLLEGE AT MALUA—APT ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATIVE PREACHERS—DR TURNER—MISSION TO THE NEW HEBRIDES—ESCAPE TO SAMOA—OF MANY CHANGES ON MANY ISLES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>British Consulate</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line'><i>Thursday Night, 27th September</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I was roused at early dawn by a French sailor appearing at my
+open door. (All rooms in these countries open on to the verandah.)
+He brought despatches, which he begged I would immediately
+translate for the vice-consul. A most senseless row has taken place,
+and all the inhabitants are in as great a turmoil as wasps whose
+nest has been disturbed.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It appears that the American consul, though personally mixed
+up in many questionable transactions here, has contrived effectually
+to bewilder the mind of the too sympathetic and kind captain of
+the Seignelay, with the story of his woes, and of the ill-treatment
+and insults to which he has been subjected. So last night he went
+on board to solicit armed assistance to enable him to capture several
+refractory American subjects, who refused to acknowledge his
+authority.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Without a thought of possible consequences, and acting on the
+kind impulse of giving the required help to an unfortunate official,
+Captain Aube agreed to lend Mr Griffin the necessary force. A
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>considerable body of armed men were accordingly landed at 10 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span>,
+and were led by the U.S. consul to Stewart’s store, whence Captain
+Wright had just departed. Stewart’s agents wrote a protest against
+such proceedings, then walked out of the house, locking it, and
+pocketing the key, leaving only a sick man inside. They affirmed
+that Wright was not in the house, but added that if a warrant
+were obtained from the British consulate, the U.S. consul might
+search to his heart’s content. Ignoring all remonstrance, the search-party
+broke open the house, and sought in vain for the bird who
+had flown.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Meanwhile another boat-load had gone in the opposite direction
+to search for more delinquents, none of whom were captured. And
+a third party came to demand the surrender of the house next
+to this one, which the bishop claims as Church property, though
+Stewart’s agent has thought fit there also to hoist the British flag.
+This demonstration also proved futile, as the said agent, Mr Hunt,
+presented a firm front, and refused to quit the premises. The
+whole thing has been a sort of Don Quixote and the windmills
+business, resulting in nothing but stirring up much bad blood. Of
+course immense excitement prevails in consequence of this insult
+offered to a house flying the Union-jack. (Poor Union-jack! it is
+made to sanction some very shady doings in these far corners of
+the earth.) The Franco-Griffin party allege that the house is
+American property, and that the unjustifiable proceeding was that
+of breaking open the U.S. consular seals and hauling down the
+Stars and Stripes!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the best, it is a low, contemptible row; and I am dreadfully
+sorry (as are all the French officers) that their kind captain’s
+Quixotic kindness should have drawn him into it. But it is more
+difficult to arrive at the truth here than in any other place I know
+of. It seems as if every one’s chief occupation in life was to rake
+up stories, old and new, against his neighbour; and these are swallowed
+and made much of, without any allowance for the fact that
+they are retailed by vicious foes. Some of the poison-mongers in
+this poor settlement were well-known characters in Fiji, and only
+left it when, after annexation, it became too warm for their comfort.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>I have vainly tried to impress some of my friends with a
+due estimate of these men’s antecedents, but to no purpose; and I
+hear their words quoted as gospel.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So great was the hubbub and perturbation from one end of “the
+beach” to the other, that our proposed picnic was very near being
+given up. However, wiser counsels prevailed, and angry feelings
+were smoothed over the more readily, as none of the principals
+were present. The party consisted of about a dozen ladies, and
+half as many French officers. Three of the sisters (Sœur Marie,
+Sœur St Hilaire, and Sœur Sept Martyrs) brought their little family
+of about sixty Samoan girls, who executed dances for our amusement
+as we sat on the pleasant turf at the spot selected for luncheon—a
+grassy lawn embowered in golden alamanders and scarlet hybiscus,
+and other bright blossoms, which soon adorned the tawny
+heads of the scholars. The dances were monotonous and ungraceful,
+as usual here, degenerating into hideous grimaces. They have
+none of the attraction of the beautiful Fijian dances. Nor have
+these damsels such pretty manners as the maidens in the Fijian
+schools. The little Doctor was considerably astonished (though
+he bore the shock philosophically) when a forward young woman
+danced up to him, and snatching off his hat, transferred it to her
+own well cocoa-nut-oiled head, while another patted his face with
+both hands, amid applausive laughter from her companions. But
+these were, happily, exceptional; and many of the girls appeared
+gentle and modest, and several were very pretty, with lithe figures
+and splendid eyes. But they all have beautiful dark-brown eyes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A great feed, <i>Fa-Samoa</i>, was next spread on the grass, on layers
+of fresh green banana-leaves. There were roast sucking-pigs, and
+pigeons stewed in <i>taro</i> leaves, or else baked on hot stones in earth
+ovens; cray-fish, and prawns, and divers kinds of fish; pine-apples,
+bananas, and oranges; salad of cocoa-palm, like most delicious
+celery; bread-fruit prepared in various ways—boiled, baked, and
+roast in wood-ashes; wonderful native puddings, made of ripe
+plantains, <i>taro</i>, bread-fruit, and other materials, each beat up fine,
+and baked separately, then all worked together with the creamy
+juice extracted from ripe cocoa-nut, which, when heated, turns to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>oil, and is so exceedingly rich that few people can eat much of it.
+However, it is really very good—at least some preparations are.
+The puddings are so very oily that each portion is tied up separately
+in a strip of silky young banana-leaf, heated over the fire to make
+it oil-proof.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In addition to these Samoan dainties, every lady had sent a contribution
+of pastry, salad, or other good things; and the excellent
+<i>chef</i> of the Seignelay had done his part admirably, as usual. Nor
+had that hospitable vessel neglected to send ample remembrance
+from the vineyards of France, though the correct drink in the
+South Seas is the inevitable cocoa-nut water,—and an excellent
+one it is, cool and refreshing, provided the nut has just been
+gathered. No matter how burning the sun in which it hangs, it
+is always cool when newly severed from beneath the crown of shady
+leaves; but after a while it becomes slightly warm and mawkish in
+taste, so a true connoisseur requires his nuts to be plucked at the
+last moment. Then some ingenious native splits the thick outer
+husk by striking it on a sharp upright stick, and tears it all off,
+except a small green stand like an inverted bowl, which supports
+the nut, so that you need not empty it till you feel inclined. Then
+he cuts off the top of the nut, which is lined with the thinnest
+coating of white jelly. This is the pulp just beginning to form,
+and in this ivory-lined cup you find about two pints of clear
+sweetish water. When a row of nuts thus prepared are placed for
+every guest at such a banquet as this, they suggest a row of brownish-yellow
+ostrich-eggs, mounted in pale-green enamel!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>An excellent dish, which I would introduce at home were it
+possible, consists of young <i>taro</i> leaves, stewed in the rich oily cream
+of cocoa-nut kernel, mixed with salt water, which is the only substitute
+for salt. Hence cocoa-nut shells containing sea-water are
+placed beside each guest, that he may therein dip his food to give
+it a relish. To have done quite the correct thing, our roast sucking-pigs
+should have been carved with a piece of split bamboo;
+but I fear that in this matter we were guilty of innovation, though
+we quite decided that bits of green banana-leaf were the nicest possible
+plates.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>We were happily not expected to partake of the national cakes,
+made of putrid bread-fruit. I told you how, in Fiji, vast stores
+of bananas are buried in pits, and there left for months to ferment,
+after which the pits are opened, and the pestilential odour that
+nearly poisons the unaccustomed nose, announces a great feast of
+<i>mandrai</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, bread. In Samoa, bananas abound all the year
+round, so there is no need to store them. But bread-fruit is only
+in season for about six months, so the surplus crop is stored in pits
+lined with banana-leaves; of course it soon ferments, but in that
+condition is preserved, perhaps, for years, as the older it is, the
+more highly it is prized. You can perhaps imagine how fearful is
+the smell of this dainty. But it is all a matter of taste—the ripe
+Stilton cheese, dear to the fine old English gentleman, is, to a
+Samoan, infinitely more revolting than his unfragrant cakes are
+to us.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our surroundings were beautiful. Far below us lay the blue
+Pacific with its white breakers and many tinted coral-reefs, and on
+every side the spurs and ravines of great green hills, all densely
+clothed with richest tropical vegetation,—huge <i>eevie</i> trees, with roots
+like coils of twisted snakes, and branches all bearded with long grey
+lichen, falling in streamers and entangled by the twining vines;
+while all manner of parasitic plants, orchids, and bird’s-nest ferns,
+nestle in every crevice. We had come by a lovely path through
+groves of bread-fruit and bananas, oranges, and other flowering
+trees, with here and there patches of cultivation—tall sugar-canes
+and maize—then tree-ferns, matted with purple convolvulus, and
+with an undergrowth of soft green grass. The gleaming sunlight
+found its way through that leafy canopy, and its dancing rays
+checkered the cool dark shadows with flecks of golden green. It
+was all soft, and lovely, and peaceful.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Ere the fragments of the feast, and the coffee-pots, and the
+crockery, were repacked, the brief tropical day was done, and the
+setting sun changed the broad blue waters into molten gold. Then
+we retraced our way through the forest, no longer sunlit, but
+sombre and very still, save for the sound of our own voices. But
+due provision had been made for the darkness; and many friends
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>and relations of the Samoan girls had come out to meet us, carrying
+long torches of cocoa-palm leaves, which blazed with a clear
+bright light, throwing a ruddy glow on all around, on semi-nude
+dusky figures, glossy foliage, tall white palm-stems, and the great
+buttressed roots of the chestnuts, and on the brown-thatched cottages,
+whence groups of pleasant olive-coloured people looked out
+and cried <i>Alofa!</i> to which kind greeting we responded, <i>Ola
+alofa!</i><a id='r16'></a><a href='#f16' class='c017'><sup>[16]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>And so the <i>Fa-Samoa</i> picnic has gone off very pleasantly, and
+we returned here to find all quiet, and to exchange the usual
+kindly courtesies with the refugees, who now have settled down
+for the night, as I must also do, that I may be ready to start at
+daybreak to get a sketch of the town and bay.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate</span>, <i>Saturday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned this morning from a most interesting expedition to
+Malua, the great college of the London Mission, of which Dr
+Turner, senior, is the head. It is about twelve miles from here,
+and Dr G. A. Turner, of the Medical Mission, most kindly volunteered
+to take M. Pinart and myself in his boat. So he called for
+us yesterday morning, after an early breakfast. We had a very
+beautiful row along the coast, and received the most cordial of
+welcomes from the Doctor, who is a fine old Scot, with a pretty,
+pleasant, Highland wife. You home people can perhaps scarcely
+realise what a very great pleasure it is, in a far land like this, to
+find one’s self suddenly dropped into the very heart of a real
+Scotch nest of the best type, and at once to be treated like a
+friend. I have found such a welcome from many of my countrymen
+in many lands, but nowhere more pleasantly than in the
+peaceful home at Malua.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The present Mrs Turner was the widow of Mr M‘Nair, one of
+the missionaries of Erromango, whose little daughter Ella, a pretty
+child eight years of age, is the pet of the family.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>You must not infer from my speaking of a college, that Malua
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>bears the slightest resemblance to any collegiate institution in
+Europe. It is essentially South Sea, which means that it is
+suitable to the climate and the people, and it consists of a large
+village of about sixty neat thatched cottages, laid out in a square,
+at one side of which stands the large class-room. Each cottage is
+the home of a student with his wife and family, preference in the
+filling up of vacancies being given to married men, both as a means
+of educating the women and children, and also because the people,
+in applying for teachers, generally ask for one whose wife can teach
+their wives and daughters.<a id='r17'></a><a href='#f17' class='c017'><sup>[17]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Each cottage home is embowered in pleasant greenery and bright
+flowers, for each student is required to cultivate a garden sufficient
+for the requirements of his family, and to raise a surplus supply,
+which he may sell to provide them with clothing.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Dr Turner himself founded this college in the year 1844, when
+the mission began to realise the extreme difficulty of keeping up a
+supply of trained teachers, not only for two districts in the group
+itself, but for the numerous other isles to which Samoan teachers
+had gone forth as pioneers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Besides, those early days had passed when the foreigners had
+been received as heaven-sent messengers, and hailed as the <i>Papalangi</i>—<i>i.e.</i>,
+those who have rent the heavens (the name still applied
+to all foreigners throughout Polynesia). At first it was
+enough that a teacher had learnt the leading doctrines of Christianity
+as opposed to idolatry; but now these were generally
+accepted by all the people, many of whom took careful notes of
+every sermon they heard, and were as keen as any old wife in
+Scotland, in detecting any error in the teaching of their minister.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Small mercy would these Samoan critics have shown to such a
+preacher as that young curate who, in his anxiety to improve the
+story of the Prodigal Son, expatiated at such length on the
+peculiar sacrifice made in the selection of <i>the</i> fatted calf, which
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>was no common calf, but one which had evidently been a household
+pet for Years, and <span class='sc'>Years</span>, and YEARS!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Samoans are natural orators, and love to illustrate their
+subject with facts and comparisons from every source within their
+ken. So the preacher who would rivet the attention of his hearers
+needed to have studied his subject well. But at that time he had
+no books to help him, no commentaries to refer to, only a translation
+of three Gospels and a few Scripture lessons; and many a
+teacher felt, what one expressed,—namely, that he was like a man
+attempting to cut down a forest with a blunt axe; or like a foolish
+man, always hammering, but never hitting the nail on the head.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The necessity of an educational institution was therefore apparent,
+and the chiefs were so favourably disposed to the scheme,
+that they offered to clear out of a whole village and make it over
+to the mission. It was, however, considered preferable to buy a
+piece of land on the coast, in a place quite apart from all other
+settlements; so Malua was selected, and fifty acres of land purchased
+in due form. This land was reclaimed from the bush by
+the students themselves, who raise yams, <i>taro</i>, and bananas in
+abundance, and have also planted several thousand bread-fruit
+trees, cocoa-palms, and other fruit-bearing trees; so that this noble
+institution is almost, if not altogether, self-supporting.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From its commencement to the present day, fully two thousand
+teachers and native ministers have been here trained, including a
+considerable number of men from far-distant Papuan Isles—from
+the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, the Tokelau, and Savage Isles—all
+speaking different tongues, but here meeting together to learn
+what they can, and then carry the truth to their own distant isles.
+Oh how these perplexed teachers must long for a new Pentecostal
+gift, to enable them to address these men, each in his own
+language!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It would be difficult to imagine a healthier, happier life, than
+that of these students. At the first glimmer of the lovely tropical
+dawn, the college bell rings to mark the hour for household prayer.
+(There is probably not a house in Samoa where the family do not
+assemble daily for morning and evening prayer.) Then all the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>students go out, either to work in the gardens, or to fish in the
+calm lagoon. At eight the bell rings again to warn them that it
+is time to bathe and breakfast, to be ready for their class at nine.
+Classes and lectures continue till four, when they are again free to
+go fishing, gardening, carpentering, or whatever they prefer. At
+sunset each family meets for evening prayer; then the men study
+by themselves till half-past nine, when the curfew bell (true
+<i>couvre-feu</i>) warns them to put out their lights.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On Saturday evening there is a prayer-meeting in the institution
+chapel, when the students take it in turn to deliver a short
+address.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Sunday is of course observed very strictly. The day begins
+with a prayer-meeting at six. At morning and afternoon service
+all the neighbouring villagers assemble, and the intervening and
+later hours are filled up with Sunday-school for children and Bible-classes
+for adults. A simple service, with a good deal of singing,
+ends the day. The Holy Communion is celebrated on the first
+Sunday of each month.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The institution rules are few and simple; but for any infringement
+of them the penalty is a fine, which goes towards the expense
+of lights.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The course of instruction includes arithmetic, geography, natural
+philosophy, writing, composition, Scripture history, and systematic
+and practical theology. For lack of books, Dr Turner and his
+fellow-tutor found it necessary, day by day, to write out copious
+notes of their lectures, and give them to all the young men to
+copy. Consequently each, on leaving the college, at the end of a
+four years’ course, carried with him a large store of papers for
+reference.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thanks to the diligent labours of Dr Turner and his colleagues
+(who during many years devoted about five hours daily to preparing
+translations for publication), the libraries of Samoa now contain
+Scripture narratives and commentaries on the Old Testament,—commentaries
+on the Epistles and Gospels, Elements of Astronomy,
+Elements of Natural Philosophy, and various other works.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We were told various examples of the acute and pithy remarks
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>of the native teachers, and of the excellent illustrations they sometimes
+make use of. Thus a hollow professor is likened to the cast-off
+shell of a lobster, so perfect in every claw and feeler, even to
+the transparent covering of the eyes, that the fisher, peering into
+the clear pools on the reef, mistakes it for a true and excellent
+prize, and only learns his error as he grasps the worthless shell.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A strange illustration of “cutting off a right hand or a right
+foot, or plucking out a right eye, that offend,” was given by a
+teacher at Tutuila, who told how often he had watched the <i>mali’o</i>,
+or land-crab, which by day burrows deep in the soil, but by night
+hurries down to the sea to feed and drink. It is a wondrous
+cleanly creature; and the Samoans declare that if on its seaward
+way, as it presses through the tall grass, it should chance to come
+in contact with any filth, which adheres to its legs, it will deliberately
+wrench them off, and thus, self-mutilated, hobbles back to its
+hole, there to hide till its legs grow again. It is positively affirmed
+that this most extraordinary crab has been known deliberately to
+wrench off its eight legs in succession, and then drag itself home
+with the greatest difficulty by means of its nippers. I must confess
+I think this crab would have shown more common-sense had
+he gone to the sea or the nearest stream and washed his dirty
+legs. But you must allow that the illustration was an apt one.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Those who on hearing good words hearken, and for a season
+dwell on them in their hearts, but after a while return to their
+careless ways, are compared to the sensitive plant, which when
+touched closes its leaves and droops to the very earth, but anon
+rises up again as brave as ever. A backslider is compared to a
+certain fish which comes from the ocean to feed on the reef, and
+which for a day or two continues silvery white, but after a while
+becomes dark and unwholesome.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A little sin is as a hole in a fisherman’s basket, through which,
+one by one, fall the fish for which he has toiled so eagerly. First
+he loses all his little fish, and gradually, as the hole enlarges, the
+large fish also escape, and at last he reaches his journey’s end with
+an empty basket.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The taint of old sins, clinging to one who would fain put away
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>evil things, is compared to a strongly scented oil, with which a
+bottle-gourd has once been filled. Many and many a time must
+that gourd be washed ere it will lose the scent, and be fit to hold
+water for drinking.<a id='r18'></a><a href='#f18' class='c017'><sup>[18]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Still more striking is the illustration of a stately bread-fruit
+tree, fair to look upon, with large glossy leaves and abundant fruit,—a
+tree which in the natural course of healthy life will, when
+full grown, send up from its roots strong shoots, which yield their
+first crop in the second or third year, so that ere long the patriarchal
+tree is the centre of a leafy fruit-bearing grove. But there
+is an insignificant-looking parasitic fungus—merely a black spot
+like the smut that comes on wheat—which is fatal to this fair
+tree. Once it can establish itself, it spreads like a canker. The
+rich green leaves turn yellow, and the disease is soon carried from
+tree to tree, till the whole grove is sickly and blighted. It brings
+no fruit to perfection, and ere long the trees are dead. Only one
+antidote is known. It is said that there grows in the depths of
+the forest a glorious lily,<a id='r19'></a><a href='#f19' class='c017'><sup>[19]</sup></a> and that if some of its bulbs are
+brought and planted among the roots of the sickly trees, they
+will recover. And so, when the deadly rust of sin has cankered
+the heart of man, one only remedy can avail,—the life-giving
+influence of <span class='sc'>Him</span> who is called the true Lily.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Again, another teacher illustrates the necessity of rooting out all
+bad habits, no matter how trifling they may seem, by the example
+of the wild <i>taro</i>, which sends rootlets creeping in every direction,
+so that though the main root may be dug up, suckers innumerable
+remain, which need only time to bring them to sturdy life.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another parable is furnished by the sugar-cane, which grows
+tall and beautiful to the eye, but unless due care is taken to clear
+away the decayed leaves from around its roots, worms gather there,
+and pierce the cane, and rapidly multiplying within, fatten and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>flourish, so that when the husbandman gathers his cane, he finds
+its precious juice all gone, and in its place a multitude of loathsome
+worms. Even such, said the preacher, is the growth of little
+sins.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The soul that seeks to soar heavenward is likened to the <i>piraki</i>—a
+small bird, which, like the skylark, seems to lose itself in the
+light. On the other hand, the snow-white tern, which, beneath its
+lovely white plumage, has a dull black skin, is a meet symbol of
+the hypocrite, whose fair feathers shall one day be plucked off, to
+reveal the false professor.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some of the questions propounded by the students are equally
+noteworthy, and few indeed suggest that confused wool-gathering
+of which every school examiner in Britain can quote such strange
+examples. The question asked by one young man was, “What is
+meant by Satan falling from heaven?” And I could not help
+thinking of the rash Sunday-school teacher who asked her class
+why, in Jacob’s dream, the angels were seen descending by a
+ladder. To which replied a sharp child, “Please, ’twas because
+the angels were puking, and they couldna flee!” She had charge
+of her mother’s poultry, which just then were moulting, so the
+comparison was forcible.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Hitherto the students do not appear to have been troubled with
+any speculative difficulties regarding the Mosaic account of Creation,
+which, in Samoa, has reversed the European order, and has
+superseded the “Darwinian” theory. According to the legend of
+the isles, “In the beginning” the great god Tangaloa sent his
+daughter, in the form of a bird, to visit the great waters, which
+then covered the face of the earth. She found a rock rising above
+the surface, and there rested a while ere returning to the heavens.
+From time to time she revisited the rock, and carried thither some
+earth—and then a creeping plant. After a while she returned,
+and her plant had covered the earth, which gradually enlarged, as
+the waters dried up. Then the plant withered and decayed, and as
+it turned into slimy nastiness, a multitude of worms appeared, and
+they grew fat and flourished, and in due course of time men and
+women were evolved. So, you see, the Samoans had traced the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>human race back to its slimy origin, long before Dr Darwin electrified
+the civilised world with his discoveries; but they have now
+discarded that ignoble ancestry in favour of the Divine theory.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A Samoan teacher often illustrates his meaning by some ingenious
+allusion to the old legends and mythology of the isles. In his
+expositions of the Old Testament he is greatly assisted by the
+number of Samoan customs, strangely analogous to those of Syria
+and Palestine. Dr Turner has collected a multitude of such
+identities—and also of the striking metaphors and hyperboles dear
+to the Samoans. Thus, “Him that overcometh will I make a
+pillar in the temple of my God,” had strange significance to those
+who believed that in Pulotu, the Samoan Paradise, the temple of
+their great god was supported by human pillars, who in this world
+had been great chiefs, whose highest aim had been the attainment
+of this honoured office.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“They took branches of palm-leaves and went forth to meet
+Him, crying Hosanna,” suggests the green leaves and branches
+often carried by the followers of a chief, and their songs in his
+praise.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In rejoicing, David “dancing and leaping before the ark,” exactly
+describes the leaping and dancing and strange capers which
+even a high-caste chief will perform as he goes before a person or
+thing whom he wishes to honour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Riddles, such as those propounded by Samson, are among the
+commonest amusements of Samoa, and are combined with forfeits.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>With reference to King David’s prayer, when “he went in and
+sat before the Lord,” it is remarked that in Samoa, as in all the
+Polynesian groups, it is a mark of disrespect to stand in the
+presence of a superior. To sit on the ground with the head bent
+down is the correct attitude of reverence and devotion.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the account of David’s covenant with Jonathan, the latter
+“stripped himself of the robe that was upon him, and gave it to
+David,”—an action which is the commonest expression of friendship
+in the South Seas.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“He kissed him, and smelled the smell of his raiment,” is an
+excellent description of the South Sea custom of greeting all
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>friends with a prolonged and impressive sniff. They touch
+noses and sniff, and then smell the hand and the garment of the
+superior.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“Children by adoption” is strangely expressive in isles where
+every family has adopted children. The term “brothers” includes
+nephews and cousins in Samoa as in Judea. “Endless genealogies,”
+and reverence for ancestry, are equally marked features in
+both races.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“Take up thy bed and walk” is easily understood, where a pile
+of soft mats is the bed of the highest chief.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“They cast off their clothes, and threw dust in the air” is a
+Samoan expression of great anger. The expressions descriptive of
+mourning for the dead in Syria might have been written in the
+South Seas. “They rent their clothes and cut themselves.”
+“They disfigure their faces.” Even so, those strange islanders
+deliberately cut their faces with sharks’ teeth and other sharp
+instruments, and bruised their heads with stones in token of grief.
+“Cut off thine hair and take up a lamentation;” “Make great
+wailing for the dead;” “They mourned for him thirty days;”
+“They ate the offerings of the dead;” They fast “till the sun be
+down,”—all exactly describe Samoan custom. Further, “They
+made a very great burning for him.” (Here they made great
+bonfires in honour of the dead and also burned their own flesh
+with firebrands.)</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The custom alluded to by the man of Mount Ephraim, who
+spoke to his mother of “the shekels of silver that were taken from
+thee, about which thou cursedst,” had its counterpart in heathen
+Samoa, where a man would sit down and deliberately invoke
+curses on an unknown thief, praying that rats might eat his fine
+mats and cloth; that fire might blast his eyes and those of his
+god; that the shark might devour him, or the thunder slay him;
+or that at least he might be afflicted with sores and ulcers. Even
+to this day you may sometimes observe a tiny square of matting,
+with strips of white <i>tappa</i>, hanging from a fruit tree, or a few reeds
+stuck into the ground and tied together at the top (clam-shells being
+buried beneath them), or some similar mark which appeals to the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>superstitious fear of the possible thief, warning him of the curses
+that will attach to whoever breaks the <i>taboo</i>. I have seen this
+identical custom in many lands, from Ceylon eastward.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A suspected thief was put upon oath in presence of the chiefs.
+Some venerated object was brought from the temple—a sacred
+stone, a trumpet-shell, or a cocoa-nut shell, which ranked as a
+divining-cup—and the accused, laying his hand on this object,
+had to pray that the gods would slay him if he spoke falsely. If
+he swore by a holy stone, a handful of grass was laid upon it, to
+signify that the doom of the false swearer would include his household,
+and that all his kindred would perish, and the grass grow on
+the site of their dwelling.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>With reference to war customs. “The Philistine cursed David
+by his gods.” “Curse ye Meroz,&#160;... because they came not to
+the help of the Lord.” So would a company of Samoan chiefs sit
+in conclave, and pray that the gods would curse those who refused
+to help in war. “Let his house be made a dunghill.” “They
+shall bring out the bones out of their graves.” “Fell every good
+tree, and stop all wells of water.” All these were literal features
+in Samoan warfare. “Lay ye the heads in two heaps at the entering
+in of the gate,” was also quite a natural direction. The description
+of the songs of the Jewish women in honour of the victor,
+when “the women answered one another as they played, and said,</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>Saul hath slain his thousands,</div>
+      <div class='line'>And David his ten thousands,”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c019'>might have been written of Samoan women describing the deeds
+of their warriors, and thereby often stirring up bitter anger and
+jealousies.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>With regard to weapons, the “sling and stone,” the “smooth
+stone of the brook,” the “arrows,&#160;... the poison whereof
+drinketh up my spirit,” exactly describe those of the Pacific;
+while the description of Saul encamped under a tree, “having
+his spear in his hand,” is a true picture of any fine old South
+Sea chief. Further, it is said, “The trumpeters stood by the
+king;” and though the trumpets of the Pacific are only perforated
+shells, the blast blown through them in honour of a chief, or to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>rally warriors in time of war, is sufficiently piercing to rouse the
+dead.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The crown and the bracelet worn by King Saul in battle seem
+most natural adornments to these chiefs, whose bracelets and crowns
+of nautilus shell attracted our admiration at their council of war.
+As our Lord spoke of unclean spirits walking through dry places,
+seeking rest, so these islanders believe that unquiet spirits roam at
+large in the forest, and they propitiate them by offerings of food.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the New Hebrides, Dr Turner met with a curious illustration
+of that strange history of Elisha giving his staff to Gehazi,
+and bidding him lay it on the face of the sick child. The staff of
+the New Hebrides was a polished stick of black iron-wood, which
+was the representative of a god, whose ministering priest was one
+of the disease-makers. When summoned to attend a case of sickness,
+this sacred staff was carried to the sick man’s room, and the
+priest, leaning upon it, pronounced certain charmed words, after
+which recovery was considered certain.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In Samoa and other groups, all disease was supposed to be the
+work of malignant wizards, therefore to them the friends of the
+sick applied for healing, or at least for counsel, even as Ahaziah
+sent his messengers to the priests of the god of Ekron to learn
+whether he would recover of his sickness.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For the healing of the sick, as well as conferring honour and
+personal comfort, “anointing with oil” was as familiar in Judea
+as in Samoa. “Thou anointest my head with oil,” might be said
+by any honoured guest in these isles; while “oil to make him of
+a cheerful countenance” was equally requisite. St James’s directions
+for the healing of the sick by the prayers of the Church
+elders, and anointing with oil, literally describe the course pursued
+in various parts of the Pacific—as, for instance, in the Tokelau
+isles, where the friends of a sick man send for the priest of the
+disease-making god, who comes, and dipping his hand in oil, passes
+it gently over the sufferer, offering prayers for his recovery. An
+important part of the ceremony, however, not prescribed by St
+James, is the offering of fine mats to the priest.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These are but a few of the multitude of illustrations collected
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>by Dr Turner.<a id='r20'></a><a href='#f20' class='c017'><sup>[20]</sup></a> There are many more, such as the occasional
+custom of embalming the dead, the compulsory observance of the
+rite of circumcision, contempt for nations who neglect it, marriage
+customs, the punishment of death for adultery, the law of divorce;
+the singularly patriarchal law which obliged each bride to be
+accompanied by one or more handmaids, taken from among her
+near relations, and who filled the place of secondary wives—so that
+a chief who owned three or four wives, possessed such a large and
+troublesome harem, that the majority were generally allowed to
+return to their parents; and lastly, the custom that a widow must
+become the wife of her deceased husband’s brother, or, failing him,
+of his nearest male relative.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The plurality of wives appears, singularly enough, to have been
+little more than a business transaction, in which the principal had
+very small interest. The marriages of a high chief were simply so
+many speculations in fine mats, which the bride brought as her
+dower, and which the bridegroom was expected to hand over to
+his principal supporters, or head men, who had arranged the match,
+and provided the feast. These men were the bankers of the tribe
+in whose hands its property accumulated; and of course they lost
+no means of adding to it, as well as of strengthening clan connections
+by multiplying marriages. Hence this question formed one
+of the chief difficulties of the early missionaries.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This very practical reason for polygamy also accounted in a
+great measure for the curious custom of adopting the children of
+living parents, which prevailed to so extraordinary an extent. It
+appears that the child was really little more than an excuse for a
+constant exchange of property, its true parents constantly sending
+gifts of <i>tonga</i>—that is, native property—to the adoptive parents;
+while these as often sent back goodwill-offerings of <i>oloa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>,
+foreign goods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When the students are considered sufficiently advanced, they
+are occasionally sent to help the teacher of one of the neighbouring
+villages, and practise the art of preaching, ere being appointed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>to the sole charge of a congregation. Of course only the well-tried
+men are promoted to the rank of native minister.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The scale of ecclesiastical pay is certainly not such as to induce
+men to enter the service of the Church for filthy lucre’s sake. A
+house, a certain amount of food, and a small annual contribution
+in kind, the value of which in no case exceeds £10, and is generally
+much less, is certainly not an undue share of loaves and
+fishes, especially as no agent of the mission is allowed to engage
+in any manner of trade, or other secular occupation, beyond the
+cultivation of his own garden. The annual contribution of his
+parishioners consists probably of half-a-dozen mats, value from 2s.
+to 6s.; 30 to 40 yards of calico, value 6d. a yard; some pieces of
+native cloth, worth 1s. each; a larger piece of <i>tappa</i>, for a curtain;
+a shirt, a fowl, a duck, two pigs, and a few nondescript coins
+of various nations and small value.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have heard so many unfair and untrue insinuations made
+by white traders, and quoted without further inquiry by many
+travellers, to the effect that many missionaries are in reality grasping
+and avaricious traders, that it may be as well to mention that
+such false accusations are invariably made by men who find their
+unjust gains somewhat lessened by the presence of men whose
+standard of barter is more honourable. If a native comes to work
+for a missionary, or brings him vegetables or fish for sale, and
+receives in payment a larger piece of cloth, or a knife—both of
+better quality than he would receive from the trader—he naturally
+learns something of the fair value of his work, or his goods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Moreover, one of the first proofs of vitality given by these
+island churches (as in every healthy branch of the Christian
+Church) has always been a readiness to contribute, not only to the
+general expenses of the mission in their own country, but also to
+sending forth teachers to the isles which are still steeped in heathenism.
+As it has been most convenient to make these payments
+in kind, each district has collected its own offerings, chiefly in
+the form of measures of cocoa-nut oil; and these contributions
+have been annually conveyed to the home market by the mission-ship
+on her return cruise. Hence the nickname of “Palm-oil
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>Ship,” so derisively bestowed by men whose very limited notions
+of their own religious duties certainly do not include any obligation
+to support foreign missions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another source of equally uncalled-for fault-finding has been
+the receiving of payment for copies of the Bible and other books,
+as if the mission, having gone to enormous expense in printing
+successive editions, each of several thousand copies (and the publication
+of works in an unknown tongue is at all times a troublesome
+matter), were to blame in offering these for sale, at prices
+varying from 1s. to 2s. a volume—that is to say, little, if at all, in
+excess of cost price. A copy of every book published in the
+Samoan language is given gratis to each student, and to every
+agent of the mission. How eagerly the precious books have been
+bought up by other natives, is shown by the fact of their having
+voluntarily paid several thousand pounds to acquire copies for
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the present moment the students at the college number
+eighty—all fine young men; of these forty-two are married, and
+occupy the pretty cosy cottages which form this South Sea college.
+There are also about twenty big boys, and a number of small ones,
+all receiving a most careful education. These are gathered from
+every island in the group, and represent many of the principal
+families, who support the different parties now striving for supremacy.
+But this is neutral ground, respected by all parties, so politics
+are excluded as far as is possible.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After luncheon, all these assembled to meet us in the large
+native church—a fine building, of white coral-lime, rounded at the
+ends like a Tongan house, and with a deep thatch roof. I never
+saw a finer lot of men and women, with keen intelligent faces.
+I fear their verdict on the foreign lady must have been very different;
+for, what with my early sketching expedition on foot, and
+then the long twelve miles in the boat, in glaring light from sun
+and sea, I literally could scarcely keep my eyes open; and having
+foolishly striven to do so, after luncheon (when I might have
+obtained the blessed “forty winks” in private), I paid the penalty
+when we reached the cool dark church, and had the humiliating
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>consciousness that the struggle was becoming vainer and more vain,
+till at length the angel of sleep triumphed, and held me captive,
+while M. Pinart put the students through a slight examination,
+simply as a matter of form.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Afterwards we wandered about the settlement, which is in every
+respect a model one, and then we enjoyed a pleasant evening at the
+calm peaceful mission-house, which stands on a grassy headland,
+palm-fringed, the sea washing three sides of the lawn. It is quite
+an idyllic home,—a true earthly paradise, where the useful and
+loving life glides on day by day, undisturbed by the wars and
+rumours of war on every side. But the peace and the home have
+alike been purchased by many a year of hard ungrudging toil in
+the heat and burden of the day.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For Dr Turner began his mission career in stormy times. Soon
+after the Rev. John Williams had been treacherously murdered at
+Eromanga in the New Hebrides, in November 1839, the London
+Mission Society determined to make a renewed effort for the conversion
+of its fierce inveterate cannibals. Mr and Mrs Turner
+were accordingly sent on this most dangerous mission. They were
+joined in Samoa by Mr and Mrs Nisbet, and together proceeded
+to the New Hebrides.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The day before Mr Williams’s death, he had succeeded in landing
+three Samoan teachers as pioneers, on the isle of Tanna, twenty
+miles from Eromanga. To this isle the missionaries now sailed—not
+without grave doubts whether they should find the teachers
+alive. (It was now June 1842.) They found them safe, but
+their work had made small progress. The people were continually
+at war, and most unconscionable thieves. They had, however,
+two good points—infanticide was not common, and they were
+careful of their own sick, so far as they knew how. But wilder
+and more savage surroundings could scarcely be conceived than
+those in which the Turners and Nisbets found themselves left,
+when the little vessel which had brought them from Samoa had
+sailed away.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They soon discovered one serious difference between the New
+Hebrides and the isles of the Eastern Pacific. In the latter, one
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>language is understood throughout a whole group, with only such
+variations as occur between Yorkshire and Somerset. But in the
+New Hebrides, each island speaks a totally different dialect, and
+though within sight one of another (as Fortuna, Aneiteum, Tanna,
+and Eromanga) they cannot understand one another; and the
+books printed for one would be totally useless for the next. Even
+on the same island the different tribes are so isolated by war and
+jealousies that their language remains as totally distinct as that of
+the Celts and Saxons in Scotland or Wales.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This circumstance, added to the intense jealousies of the tribes,
+made it a matter of extreme difficulty, as well as danger, to attempt
+visiting different villages, in which endeavour Mr Turner and Mr
+Nisbet nevertheless persevered, always at the risk of their lives,
+being inspired with an intense belief in the reality of their Lord’s
+command (to go into <i>all</i> the world and preach to <i>all</i> His human
+creatures), and also in His protecting care.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So when a vessel touched the isle, and offered to carry them all
+away, the mission band refused to desert their post, and for seven
+months contrived to maintain their ground. But it was a constant
+struggle and never-ceasing danger. During five months out of the
+seven the tribes were at war, and at last the whole powerful body
+of sacred medicine-men—the rain-makers and thunder-makers, and
+especially the disease-makers—were filled with such jealousy of the
+foreigners who gave away medicines, and so diminished <i>their</i> gains,
+that they stirred up the islanders generally to believe that the
+dysentery, coughs, and influenza which had recently, for the first
+time, appeared in the group, were all produced by the white men;
+and, strangely enough, their assertion seemed confirmed by the fact
+that the tribe among whom the missionaries were living, actually
+escaped these illnesses.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So about two thousand wild savages united for a more determined
+onslaught on this friendly tribe; and at last, seeing matters
+were desperate, the little band of Christians, nineteen in all, were
+compelled to fly for their lives. They accordingly embarked at
+dead of night in an open boat and a canoe, hoping to reach the
+Isle Aneiteum, preferring to face the certain hardships of such a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>voyage to the worse certainty of being consigned to cannibal ovens.
+The sea was, however, wild and tempestuous; and after vainly
+struggling for several hours to make head against it, they were
+compelled to return to land, and happily re-entered their own
+house before any of the natives had discovered their flight.
+Matters now seemed desperate; but, as the old proverb says,
+“Man’s extremity is God’s opportunity.” When the villages were
+blazing on every side of them, and their last hours seemed at hand,
+a sail hove in sight. It proved to be The Highlander (name of
+good omen), a whaler, whose captain, knowing that the Turners
+and Nisbets had gone to Tanna, thought he would just run in and
+see if they were still alive. The presence of the foreign ship
+stayed the fighting for the moment, and enabled the mission party
+very quietly to make their preparations for embarking. This was
+on Saturday. On Sunday, they as usual abstained from any
+manner of work, and held public worship. Soon after midnight
+they silently stole forth, and though their chapel and outhouses,
+and even the boat-shed, were crowded with people from the
+neighbouring villages, whose homes had been burnt by the enemy,
+not one awoke till almost all the party were safely on board with
+their baggage. So this was accomplished without the dreaded
+opposition. At last some men awoke, and then messengers flew
+through the district to summon the chiefs. Mr Turner asked them
+all to come on board to bid him farewell. Eleven did so, and
+expressed their grief at all that had occurred; one fine old chief
+wept like a child, but none ventured to bid the white men stay.
+In truth, they said that they expected themselves to be exterminated
+as soon as the vessel had departed.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Seeing no possibility of establishing a mission on any of the
+neighbouring isles, Mr Turner induced Captain Lucas to convey
+the whole party to Samoa—a journey which was not without
+danger, owing to baffling winds and the lack of any reliable chart.
+They narrowly escaped coming to grief as they passed through
+the Fiji group, where the vessel was becalmed and quickly surrounded
+by large war canoes, each manned by from fifty to a
+hundred most formidable, armed savages. Providentially a light
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>breeze sprang up and carried them away from that danger; and
+so in due time they reached Apia, where they found welcome and
+much needed rest and comfort.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Soon after, Mr Turner was appointed to the charge of a district
+in Samoa, which gave him the care of sixteen villages; but ere
+long the pressing need of teachers led to the commencement of the
+training college, where, with the exception of occasional voyages to
+the New Hebrides and other groups, he and his successive colleagues
+have ever since found abundant work, in training native
+evangelists, translating valuable books, and, so far as lay in their
+power (not having received a regular medical training), in ministering
+to the temporal needs of the people, administering such
+medicines as they could procure, and even, under pressure of
+necessity, attending to surgical cases. Their chief care, however,
+was to vaccinate every man, woman, and child within reach,
+a precaution to which may be attributed the happy circumstance
+that there has never been a case of smallpox in Samoa, though it
+is visited by so many foreign ships. In many other groups, where
+some chance vessel has touched, the deadly infection has been left,
+and in some cases about a third of the population has died.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Dr Turner observed that the people of Tanna are in mortal
+dread of a form of witchcraft precisely similar to that so commonly
+practised in Fiji in its heathen days (and perhaps, <i>sub rosa</i>,
+even now; for we noticed the extreme care with which some of
+our followers occasionally collected and buried every scrap of food
+which they, or we, had touched).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Fijians believed that if they could get a fragment of the
+hair or food of an enemy, or a small bit of any garment he had
+worn, the heathen priest could therewith work a spell which should
+cause death within four days. The priest kindled a fire and performed
+incantations over these relics, approaching the spot only on
+his hands and knees.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The wizard of Tanna is a professional disease-maker. He prowls
+about, continually seeking for refuse of any sort which he can turn
+to account. An old banana-skin, a bit of a cocoa-nut, the parings
+of a yam, will answer his purpose. He wraps it in a leaf, that no
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>one may know exactly what he has found. He ties the parcel
+round his neck, and stalks about ostentatiously through the villages.
+In the evening he scrapes some bark off a certain tree,
+mixes it with the rubbish he has found, rolls it all together in a
+leaf, like a very long cigar, and lays it close to the fire, so that one
+end may gradually smoulder. As it burns, the true owner becomes
+ill; and as the pain increases, he calls to his friends, who immediately
+recognise the work of the disease-maker, and blow loud
+blasts on the trumpet-shell, which can be heard at a distance of
+two or three miles. This is a pledge that if he will stop burning
+the rubbish, they will bring him offerings of their best mats,
+pigs, &#38;c.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The wizard, hearing the blast, draws away the green cigar, and
+waits impatiently to see what gift his dupes will bring in the
+morning. They firmly believe that if the cigar is allowed to burn
+to the end, the victim must die. Should the pain return, the
+friends suppose the wizard is dissatisfied with his gifts, and they
+blow louder than before, making night hideous with their dismal
+noise, and load the disease-maker with presents, all of which he of
+course readily accepts. Should the man die, the friends merely
+suppose they failed to propitiate the wretch. These wizards were
+the worst foes of the mission party, and were for ever trying to
+work spells for their destruction, though happily without effect.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>You can readily understand how a people deeply imbued with
+the faith in this possibility of working mischief, were always
+ready to attribute to the missionaries those epidemics of illness,
+formerly unknown, which so strangely seem to have broken
+out in almost every group soon after the arrival of white men—generally
+influenza, measles, smallpox, or dysentery, each of which
+has invariably proved a deadly pestilence when first attacking
+these races.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have just told you how this belief resulted in the mission
+being driven from Tanna. About the same time, dysentery appeared
+in the neighbouring isle of Fotuna, and led to the massacre
+of the Samoan teachers who had been left there by Mr Williams.
+It also ravaged Eromanga, carrying off one-third of the population,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>who believed that the scourge had been introduced by some
+hatchets which they had received as barter from a sandal-wood
+ship, and accordingly they threw them all away. On several other
+islands the teachers were either murdered or compelled to flee for
+their lives, solely on this account.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>What makes this more remarkable is, that these illnesses often
+followed the visit of a ship which itself had a perfectly clean bill
+of health; and in many cases the missionaries and other good
+authorities recorded that they had no reason to believe that any
+white man had been to blame for the introduction of new diseases.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Therefore the poor islanders naturally concluded that these
+scourges were introduced by malicious foreign gods; so when a
+Samoan family assembled for their evening meal, the head of the
+house, ere tasting his bowl of <i>kava</i>, poured a little on the ground
+as a drink-offering to the gods; and every voice was hushed while
+he prayed that the gods of Samoa would give increase and prosperity
+to the household and all pertaining to it; that the war-gods
+would give strength to the people; but to such foreign gods as
+might have arrived in Tongan canoes or great ships, he said—“Here
+is <i>kava</i> for you, O sailing gods; do not come ashore at this
+place, but be pleased to remain on the ocean, and go to some other
+land!”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Sometimes the worshippers preferred to leave this matter in the
+care of their own protecting gods. In that case they kindled a
+blazing fire just before the evening meal, and offered its light to
+the king of gods, and all his fellow-deities, beseeching them to
+keep away from Samoa all sailing gods, lest they should come and
+cause disease and death.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Dr Turner takes high rank among the apostles of the Pacific.
+Few men living know better, from their own experience, how marvellous
+has been the change wrought in the last forty years, by
+which barbarous cannibals have been transformed into peaceful
+Christians.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For instance, when he first visited the Isle of Niuē, or Savage
+Island (which lies as the centre of a triangle formed by Tonga,
+Samoa, and the Hervey Isles), its people were in much the same
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>condition as Captain Cook found them, when they rushed on his
+men “like savage boars,” which was their invariable reception of
+all outsiders—not of white men only (though these were invariably
+repulsed), but also of men whose canoes chanced to drift
+from Tonga or Samoa, or even of their own countrymen who had
+left the island and returned. All such were invariably killed,
+chiefly from a dread lest they should introduce foreign diseases.
+So great was this fear, that even when they did venture to begin
+trading, they would not use anything obtained from ships till it
+had been hung in quarantine in the bush for weeks.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For sixty years after Captain Cook’s visit, these 4000 very
+exclusive savages adhered to their determination that no stranger
+should ever live on their isle. At the end of that time they
+agreed to allow Samoan teachers to settle among them; and so
+successful has been the work of these men, that the island is now
+peopled with model Christians. No more wars, no fightings, no
+thefts, but a peaceful and happy community (sufficiently) “clothed
+and in their right mind;” living in good houses of the Samoan
+type, instead of filthy huts; assembling for school and worship in
+large suitable buildings, and with abundant leisure to cultivate the
+soil and prepare the arrowroot and other produce, with which to
+purchase not only calico, hatchets, knives, &#38;c., but also copies
+of the Scriptures, hymns, and commentaries, translated into the
+Savage Island dialect by the Samoan teachers, and printed at
+Apia.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Like the Tongans, these very sensible savages have discovered a
+means of making criminals really useful to the community. For
+theft and all other offences, the chief sentences the offender to
+make so many fathoms of road of neatly laid blocks of coral, filled
+in with small stones, and covered with a level layer of earth.
+Thus a good road, shaded by a double row of cocoa-palms, now
+encircles the isle—a circuit of perhaps fifty miles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Do you think that Captain Cook would now recognise his “wild
+boars”?</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In like manner, when Dr Turner first visited the Loyalty Isles,
+of which New Caledonia is the principal isle, he found hideous
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>cannibals, without a rag of clothing, but whitewashed from head to
+foot to improve their beauty. This was the height of fashion on
+Maré. On his return in 1859, he found that perhaps one side of
+an island had adopted Christianity, and that clean, decently clad
+congregations of men and women assembled on the shore to meet
+him, eager that he should hear them read the Scriptures from books
+printed in their own dialect,—a strange contrast to the other side
+of the same isle, still plunged in heathen degradation, engaged in
+ceaseless war, feasting on the bodies of the slain, and occasionally
+capturing a Christian teacher, whose zeal led him to adventure
+within their reach.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Much the same state of things prevailed on some of the New
+Hebrides, where the isle of Aneiteum was the most hopeful centre
+of operations, its population of upwards of 3000 persons having all
+professedly become Christians, and 300 being actually church
+members. Fifty-six different villages had built schools for their
+own use, and eleven had chapels. Sixty of the more advanced
+natives ranked as teachers, and several had gone to work on the
+hostile isles around. On these, also, two white missionaries had
+established themselves, though still enduring a hard struggle, and
+making very little way apparently.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>More recent incidents have proved how slow and difficult has
+been their work.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On the voyage I speak of, the converts presented Dr Turner
+with upwards of a hundred of their discarded idols—storm-gods
+and rain-gods, gods of war and of sickness, gods of the land and of
+the sea, of the fruits of the earth and of all living things,—a
+strange motley collection of poor dishonoured images, each of
+which had been an object of awe through many a dark year, now
+all huddled together in the hold of the foreign ship.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Amongst the simpler idols of Samoa were a number of smooth
+water-worn stones, more or less egg-shaped—precisely similar to
+those still reverenced in Indian temples, and which were so long
+held in honour in the British Isles.<a id='r21'></a><a href='#f21' class='c017'><sup>[21]</sup></a> One of these was the Samoan
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>rain-god, who was instructed in his duties by a priest, and in
+times of drought was carried to the stream and therein bathed.
+But should rain fall in excess, the poor god was popped into the
+fire, to make him personally aware that the land needed a drying.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On the same principle the rain-making priests in New Caledonia
+do or did dig up a dead body, and, having carried the bones to a
+cave, there fastened them together to form a complete skeleton,
+which they hung up, and poured water over it, supposing that the
+spirit of the dead would take the hint and cause the clouds to
+pour rain on the thirsty land. These priests were so far true to
+their pretensions that they remained in the cave fasting till rain
+did fall, and some actually died at their post. When fine weather
+was required, they kindled a fire beneath the skeleton and let it
+burn.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Similar as were these rain-making customs, there does not appear
+to have been any link between the Samoans and these Loyalty
+Islanders, the latter being about as debased a race of cannibals as
+could well be imagined,—men who, not content with eating the
+bodies of foes slain in battle, tied up their captives to trees, and
+prepared the ovens for their reception before their very eyes. The
+women followed their lords to battle, to be in readiness to seize
+the falling foe and carry his body to the rear and prepare it for
+the feast. They themselves were liable to be eaten if captured;
+and the youngest children of the tribe shared the horrid meal. On
+ordinary occasions the Loyalty Islanders had only one meal a day.
+The luxury of <i>kava</i> was unknown to them, but they indulged in
+copious draughts of sea-water. They wore no apology for clothes.
+A chief might marry thirty wives, no matter how closely related to
+him by ties of blood. The Samoans, on the contrary, rigorously
+prohibited the marriage of any persons nearly related, declaring
+that such unions called down the wrath of the gods. The gods
+of the New Caledonians were the ancestral spirits, and their
+treasured relics were the finger and toe nails of their friends. In
+burying the dead the head was left above ground; and on the
+tenth day it was twisted off by the mourning relatives, who preserved
+the skull, extracting the teeth as separate treasures. The
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>teeth of old women, scattered over a yam plantation, were supposed
+to secure a good crop; and for the same reason the skulls of all
+the old village crones were stuck on poles near the gardens.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I wonder if all these distinctions between the manners and customs
+of the various groups, convey to your untravelled mind one-thousandth
+part of the interest they possess to us, who have
+actually lived among so many different races. I fear it is impossible
+that they should. But you can well understand the thankfulness
+of such men as Dr Turner and his colleagues, in watching
+the gradual change from year to year, as the Gospel of mercy takes
+root in such unpromising soil; and they themselves find loving
+welcome from the very men who in past years thirsted for their
+blood, and shed that of so many fellow-workers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Fain would we have lingered at peaceful Malua, and listened to
+stories of the South Seas from the lips of those who have themselves
+been actors in so many thrilling scenes, extending from the
+far west to this centre. But it was necessary to return to Apia
+this morning, so we regretfully bade farewell to these kind new
+friends, who loaded us with gifts of strange things, brought from
+many isles, and sped us on our way.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here we found all quiet. The Seignelay has had a long day of
+entertaining. First the Sisters went on board, with their sixty
+children, who were duly impressed with the wonders of the great
+ship; afterwards all the young men from the Catholic College had
+their turn.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>M. de Gironde has just been here, to tell me the vessel sails for
+Tahiti on Monday. He brings the kindest letters and messages
+from the captain and all the party, expressive of their true wish
+that I should proceed with them on the “Tour de la Mission.”
+Indeed the state of affairs here is not such as to invite a prolonged
+stay. And there might be a detention of months among these
+discordant elements, ere I found an opportunity to return to Fiji.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER IX.<br> <span class='c009'>A SKETCH OF THE SAMOAN MISSION—THE REV. JOHN WILLIAMS DETERMINES TO VISIT THE NAVIGATOR’S ISLES—PRELIMINARY WORK IN THE HERVEY GROUP—DISCOVERY OF RAROTONGA—CONVERSION OF ITS PEOPLE—THEY HELP WILLIAMS TO BUILD A SHIP WHICH SHALL CONVEY HIM TO SAMOA—VISIT TONGA—PROCEED TO SAMOA—OVERTHROW OF IDOLATRY—REVERENCE FOR OLD MATS—WILLIAMS’S GRAVE AT APIA.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c007'>When I first landed in Fiji in 1875, nothing amazed me so
+much as the wonderful work which has there been done by the
+Wesleyan Mission—a work of which the outside world literally
+knew nothing. Now that my wanderings have led me further
+east, I see that different regiments of the great Christian army
+have each been doing their part in forwarding their Master’s cause;
+and so strangely interesting are many details of their work, which
+I have now heard for the first time, that I think I cannot do
+better than note them down, feeling quite convinced that you will
+find them as new and as full of interest as I myself have done.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The extraordinary success of the South Sea missions is certainly
+to be attributed in a great measure to that triumph of common-sense
+which made the various societies agree, almost at the outset,
+in a great measure to divide the field of labour, and so endeavour
+to avoid distracting the minds of the simple islanders, by allowing
+them to perceive that their teachers could possibly disagree among
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the North Pacific some good working power has doubtless
+been lost by the establishment in the Sandwich Isles of both an
+English Episcopal Mission and American Congregationalists. The
+Dowager Queen Emma is a stanch adherent of the English Church,
+as was also her husband, who himself translated the prayer-book
+into the Hawaiian language. But the majority of the people there
+(as throughout Polynesia) find the less ceremonious forms of religious
+observance better adapted to their needs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So the American Board of Foreign Missions, which commenced
+its work in 1820, met with such success, that within half a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>century the whole group had been evangelised, and a self-supporting
+native Church, with native pastors, established. It is now
+extending its operations among the islands in the north-western
+part of the Pacific, between the equator and Japan. These are
+collectively described as Micronesia, on account of their extremely
+small size, the majority being simply low atolls, few of which rise
+more than ten feet above the level of the ocean.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The south-western isles of the Pacific, which come under the
+general name of Melanesia, are chiefly in the hands of the English
+Church Societies, and of the Presbyterian Mission.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The countless large groups which occupy the south-east of the
+ocean, and are generally described as Polynesia, have been almost
+entirely Christianised by the London and Wesleyan Missions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Shortly after Captain Cook’s discoveries had first drawn attention
+to the existence of these unexplored regions, the London Mission,
+which includes men of all the evangelical sects, began its
+work by sending men to the Marquesas, the Society Isles (Tahiti
+and Raiatea), and to Tonga.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of the sad fate which befell the first Tongan missionaries, I have
+already spoken. Three were murdered, and the rest compelled to
+fly for their lives. Some years later, the Wesleyan Mission ventured
+to reoccupy the field, when they found the people somewhat
+penitent. They were able to establish themselves under the protection
+of some friendly chiefs, and ere long had the satisfaction of
+knowing that Christianity was striking firm deep roots in the soil
+which at first seemed so unpromising.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Truly marvellous has been the growth of the tree thus watered
+by the blood of those brave pioneers. Eighty years have elapsed
+since their martyrdom, at which time there was not one isle in the
+whole Pacific which was not steeped in debasing heathenism and
+cruel wars. Now, throughout Polynesia, idolatry is a thing of the
+past; none of the present generation have even seen the wood and
+stone gods of their fathers: infanticide and murder are probably less
+common than in Europe, and a reverent obedience to all Christian
+precepts a good deal more apparent than in civilised countries. On
+upwards of 300 isles (where in the early half of this century no boat
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>could have touched without imminent danger), Christianity of a
+really practical sort now reigns. Upwards of a quarter of a million
+persons show their faith in its requirements by utterly changed
+lives, and at least 60,000 of these are regular communicants. The
+casual traveller, who, a few years ago, would almost inevitably
+have been killed had he ventured to land, is now chiefly in danger
+of asserting that the natives have been trained to be religious overmuch,—their
+“innocent nature” cramped; and so the chances are,
+that without intending to do mischief, he throws his influence of
+the moment into the opposite scale, and is perhaps the source of
+more evil than he dreams of.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Having not only succeeded in transforming the savage Tongans
+into earnest Christians, but also into most zealous and capable
+teachers, the Wesleyan missionaries next made their way to Fiji,
+where their success was still more wonderful, and a race of most
+cruel cannibals has become one of the gentlest on earth.<a id='r22'></a><a href='#f22' class='c017'><sup>[22]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>About the same time the Samoan Isles, which were then an almost
+unknown group, were sought out by the Rev. John Williams
+of the London Mission, one of the boldest and most successful of
+the early pioneers. He began his work at Raiatea, in the year
+1817, with such success, that when, in 1821, an opportunity presented
+itself of visiting the Hervey Isles (of which nothing was
+known, except that such a group existed), several converts from
+Raiatea volunteered to go there as pioneers. They were accordingly
+landed on the isle of Aitutaki,<a id='r23'></a><a href='#f23' class='c017'><sup>[23]</sup></a> the very name of which
+might have suggested encouragement. There they were favourably
+received by Tamatoa, the chief, and his people. Nevertheless, as
+it was well known that these were all cannibals, and constantly at
+war one with another, it was not without deep anxiety that Mr
+Williams left the teachers to begin the mission. When, however,
+in the following year, he returned to the group, in company with
+Mr Bourne, they were received with the glad tidings that the
+people of Aitutaki had all, without exception, abjured idolatry,
+burnt their <i>marais</i>, and begun to worship the Saviour; that they
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>had built a large church, and rigidly hallowed the Sabbath. On
+the following day nearly 2000 of these now tamed savages assembled
+on the shore, and all knelt together in solemn prayer to
+the Christian’s God; after which they brought thirty of their
+discarded idols, and carried them on board the mission-ship, that
+the men of other isles, beholding them, might know that they were
+no gods, but only worthless images, and so might be led to discard
+their own.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This was a satisfactory beginning for one year’s work; and a
+great promise for the future lay in the fact that among the converts
+were six natives from the then unknown isle of Rarotonga,
+who earnestly prayed that teachers might be sent to their brethren,
+and that they themselves might be allowed to accompany them.
+The men of Aitutaki declared the Rarotongans to be most ferocious
+cannibals, and horribly treacherous, and were sorely alarmed for
+the safety of any teachers who should venture among them.
+Nevertheless it was agreed that the opportunity was one not to
+be lost. Accordingly the mission-ship sailed in search of Rarotonga.
+For eight days they sought in vain, but failed to discover
+it.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At last they found themselves off an isle which proved to be
+Mangaia. There three brave Tahitian teachers, two of whom were
+accompanied by their wives, volunteered to land and endeavour to
+establish a footing among the people. These, however, proved
+such unmitigated savages that the attempt was frustrated. Though
+the chiefs had invited the teachers to land, their doing so was the
+signal for brutal ill-treatment of both men and women. All their
+little property was at once stolen, and they only escaped with their
+lives by swimming back to the ship through the surf.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A few months later another attempt was made to commence a
+mission in the Hervey Isles. Once more the mission-ship returned
+to Mangaia, and two unmarried teachers, Davida and Tiere, leaped
+into the sea and swam to the shore, taking nothing with them
+but the cloth they wore, and a portion of the New Testament in
+Tahitian, which was carefully wrapped up and tied on their heads.
+Crowds had assembled on the shore, and one warrior rushed at
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>them with a long spear, but the lunge was arrested by the king
+himself, who received them kindly, and at once led them to his
+own seaside temple, in order that the people might consider their
+persons sacred. This they were inclined to do; for soon after
+their cruel treatment of the first teachers, a terrible epidemic had
+broken out in the isle, which had carried off young and old, chiefs
+and peasants. Supposing this to be a punishment sent by the God
+of those strangers, they collected all the property they had stolen
+from them, the calico dresses torn off the women, and the strips
+into which they had torn the Bibles to make ornaments for their
+hair at the midnight dances in honour of the god Tane. All these
+things they threw into a chasm in the mountains into which they
+were in the habit of casting their dead, and made solemn vows to
+the unknown God that if His servants returned to their isle they
+should be well cared for. So now they prepared a feast for the
+two bold swimmers, and allowed them to settle among them in
+peace.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Meanwhile Mr Williams had continued the search for Rarotonga,
+and had touched at the isles of Atiu, Mauke, and Mitiaro.
+The story of that voyage is more thrilling than any romance. It
+was as if a flash of electric light had suddenly illumined the thick
+darkness. What that darkness was you may infer from the fact
+that only four years previously all these islands had been decimated
+by war and cannibalism. The fierce people of Mitiaro had slain
+and eaten several canoe-loads of the men of Atiu, whose kinsfolk,
+determined to avenge them, came over in force, and by treachery
+gained access to the stronghold of the men of Mitiaro. A fearful
+massacre ensued, and to this day the oven is shown into which men
+and women and helpless infants were thrown alive to be cooked;
+the only mercy shown was when the brains of the children were
+dashed on the stones, and so they were killed ere being cast into
+the oven. When the conquerors had eaten their fill, they packed
+basketfuls of the savoury meat to regale their wives and families
+at Atiu; but ere they left the blood-stained isle they practised one
+more barbarity common to heathen warfare. In dragging the great
+double canoes over the sharp coral, it is usual to lay down soft
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>banana stumps to act as rollers, and so protect the canoes from
+injury. The rollers now used were living naked men and women,
+tied together hand and foot, and over their writhing bodies were
+the heavy canoes drawn in triumph.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The same terrible fate had overtaken the neighbouring isle of
+Mauke, when the arrival of the mission-ship brought to these isles
+the blessed Gospel of peace. The first man to step on board at
+Atiu was the terrible chief, Romatane, who had led the expeditions
+against Mitiaro and Mauke: he was a man of strikingly commanding
+aspect, with beautiful long black hair. He was eagerly welcomed
+by the chief of Aitutaki, who had already destroyed his
+idols and accepted the new faith; and so earnestly did this zealous
+convert plead all through the long night with his brother chief,
+that, ere the morrow dawned, the truth of his words seemed borne
+in upon the mind of Romatane, and he vowed that never again
+would he worship any God save Jehovah. He returned ashore to
+announce this decision to his people, and his intention of immediately
+destroying his idols and their temples. Then returning on
+board, he agreed to direct the course of the vessel to the then
+unknown isles of Mitiaro and Mauke, which hitherto he had
+visited only with fire and sword. Now it was his voice that
+proclaimed the truths he had just learned, and that exhorted the
+people to destroy all their idols and build a house for the worship
+of the true God. At each isle he himself escorted the Tahitian
+teachers and their wives to the house of the principal chief, and
+charged him to care for them and hearken to their instructions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thus in one short day was this mighty revolution wrought in
+three isles, which had never before even seen a foreign ship. Romatane
+and his brother Mana proved themselves true to their first
+convictions; and among their stanch fellow-workers was one who,
+to this day, tells how, at the massacre of his kinsfolk on Mauke,
+when he was carried away captive, he was laid on the baskets containing
+the baked flesh of his uncles and fellow-countrymen, and
+narrowly escaped being himself consigned to the oven.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The mission work progressed without a drawback. The people,
+almost without demur, determined to destroy the idols they had
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>so long revered. Many were rescued as museum curiosities, and
+the mission-ship sailed onward with those grotesque monsters
+hanging from her yard-arms, and otherwise displayed as trophies,
+leaving in their stead earnest converts, from Raiatea and Tahiti,
+to instruct these willing hearers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When they had almost given up in despair their search for
+Rarotonga, one of the new converts told them that if they would
+sail to a given point on the isle of Atiu, he could thence take
+bearings which would enable him to find it. So for this starting-point
+they made; and, true to his word, the islesman directed them
+how to steer, and after several days they reached the beautiful isle
+they sought. Here they were received in the most friendly manner;
+and the young king, Makea (an exceedingly handsome man,
+six feet high, and beautifully tattooed), came on board himself,
+and agreed to take the native teachers ashore, with their wives
+and the six Christian natives who had been brought back to their
+own isle. This promising beginning was, however, not without a
+check; for in the early dawn the teachers returned to the ship,
+bringing back their wives with garments all tattered and torn,
+telling of the grievous treatment they had endured. The chiefs
+were exceedingly anxious that the teachers should remain on the
+isle to teach them the Word of God, but wished to annex their
+wives.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was therefore decided that, for the present, only one fine old
+teacher should be left, with the six Rarotongans who had first
+suggested the commencement of the mission, on their unknown
+isle. So well did their work progress, that within a year the
+whole population had renounced idolatry. Makea, the king, was
+among the earliest converts; and when, in 1827, Mr Williams
+and Mr Pitman arrived with their wives and families to settle in
+Rarotonga, they were received by an enthusiastic crowd of about
+3000 persons, each of whom insisted on shaking hands so heartily,
+that their arms ached severely for several hours after. All these
+were professedly Christians; and the new-comers learnt that there
+was not a house on the isle in which the family did not assemble
+morning and evening for family worship. A few days after their
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>arrival, they perceived a great body of people approaching bearing
+heavy burdens. These proved to be fourteen immense idols, the
+smallest of which was about fifteen feet high. Some of these
+were reserved to decorate the rafters of the new chapel, built by
+the people themselves, to contain 3000 persons; the rest were
+destroyed.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While this marvellous change was being wrought on the other
+isles, the brave young teachers who had swum ashore on Mangaia
+were steadily making their way. Within two years one died,
+leaving Davida to labour alone. He had, however, by this time
+made some progress; and on one glad day the king and chiefs
+determined to abandon the idol shrine, where, every evening,
+offerings of food were presented to the thirteen known gods, and
+to the great host of the unknown. So, to the great joy of
+Davida, the thirteen idols were carried to his house by their late
+worshippers, and there stripped of the sacred white cloth in which
+priests and gods were always clothed. They are now preserved in
+the museum of the London mission, and very much resemble the
+wooden idols of the ancient Britons to be seen in our antiquarian
+museums.<a id='r24'></a><a href='#f24' class='c017'><sup>[24]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>Thus, in an incredibly short space of time, was the whole system
+of idolatry, with its bloody human sacrifices, overthrown in the
+Hervey Isles; and how marvellous was the change wrought in
+every respect, has been described by Lord Byron, Commander of
+H.M.S. Blonde, when he accidentally found himself in the group,—and,
+recognising it as one of those discovered by Captain Cook,
+approached land with extreme caution, but was welcomed by noble-looking
+men, dressed in cotton shirts and very fine mats, who produced
+written documents from the London Mission Society, qualifying
+them to act as teachers, and then took him ashore to a neat
+village with a good school and a crowded church.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From that time forward, the Hervey Islanders have not only
+been true to their own profession, but have proved zealous missionaries
+in carrying the Gospel to other isles. Their theological
+college has already sent forth about 150 trained men as teachers.
+About 50 of these are at the present moment scattered among
+various remote isles of the Pacific, some of which are still cannibal.
+Six of the most zealous and determined men have gone, accompanied
+by their brave missionary wives, to face the unknown perils
+that await them in New Guinea—where, doubtless, their work will
+bear good fruit, and prove the first step in opening up that vast
+island to the commerce of the civilised world.<a id='r25'></a><a href='#f25' class='c017'><sup>[25]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The very first missionary effort of the Hervey Islanders was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>directed by Mr Williams towards Samoa. Even before he left
+Raiatea, he had resolved to visit the Navigator group, to endeavour,
+there also, to plant some seed of good, which might perchance
+take root. Now that the work had so prospered in the
+Hervey Isles, he ventured to broach the subject to his wife, who,
+naturally enough, at first objected to being left alone with her
+children for many months among a race of utter savages, while her
+husband went off on a very long and dangerous voyage of about
+200 miles, to face perhaps still greater dangers when he reached
+his destination. After a while, however, this brave woman made
+up her mind that it was right he should go; and much to his
+astonishment, several months after the subject had been dismissed,
+she volunteered her consent.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then came the primary difficulty of transit. They possessed no
+vessel which could possibly make such a journey—only native
+canoes. Nothing daunted, Mr Williams determined to try his
+hand at shipbuilding, though it was a trade of which he knew
+little, and he had scarcely any tools. His first great difficulty lay
+in making a pair of smith’s bellows. Though he possessed only
+four goats, three were sacrificed for the sake of their skins. The
+fourth, which was giving a little milk, was spared. Scarcely were
+the bellows finished, when the rats, sole indigenous animals, assembled
+in scores, and in one night devoured every particle of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>leather. Having none in reserve, invention was sorely taxed, till
+at last Mr Williams devised a machine which should throw out air
+as a pump throws water.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This was but one of the countless difficulties to be overcome.
+To obtain planks, trees were split with wedges, and then cut up
+with small hatchets. For lack of nails the planks were riveted
+together with wooden pins. Sails were made of quilted mats and
+ropes of hybiscus bark. Cocoa-nut husk supplied the place of
+oakum. A clumsy stone anchor was contrived, and also a wooden
+one. In short, determination triumphed over every difficulty; and
+in fifteen weeks, without any help save what the Rarotongans
+could give by obeying his directions, Mr Williams had the satisfaction
+of launching a seaworthy vessel of about 80 tons burden,
+60 feet in length, and 18 in breadth. To test her sailing powers,
+she was to make a preliminary trip to Aitutaki, distant about 170
+miles. Before they had gone six miles, the natives let slip the
+foresail, which, straining in the wind, broke the foremast, and
+with some difficulty they returned to land. Having repaired the
+damage, they started again, reached Aitutaki, and returned thence
+to Rarotonga with a cargo of pigs, cats, and cocoa-nuts. The two
+first, but especially the pigs, were invaluable in ridding the island
+of rats; but a cargo of cocoa-nuts suggests coals to Newcastle, till
+we learn that in native warfare the cocoa-palms and bread-fruit
+trees were invariably destroyed, so that the fruitful isles were
+utterly ravaged.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Messenger of Peace being now proven seaworthy, sailed for
+Tahiti, whence she was despatched to the Marquesas, and on
+several other mission expeditions, ere starting on that for which
+she had been designed. It was not till the year 1830, that Mr
+Williams, taking Mr Barff as his colleague, and seven Tahitian
+teachers with their wives and children, actually sailed in search
+of the almost unknown Navigator’s Isles. They touched at the
+Hervey Isles on their way, and these likewise contributed several
+teachers, eager to carry to Samoa the Word of Peace, which had
+so recently gladdened themselves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Passing on thence to Tonga they received warm welcome from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>King George, who had long been a zealous Christian, and whose
+energetic nature had thrown itself heart and soul into the work of
+converting his people. Never did finer material exist. The Tongans
+have ever been noted for their strong, self-reliant, earnest
+character; and the same determination which in old days made
+them dreaded as the most daring pirates of the South Seas, was
+now called into play in quite a new manner, and the pushing
+ambitious men who were ever coming to the front in deeds of
+aggression, were henceforth the champions of the Christian faith
+and its most zealous pioneers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Tonga Mr Williams was the guest of Messrs Nathaniel
+Turner and Cross. The name of the latter is familiar to us, as
+having shared, with the Rev. David Cargill, the danger and honour
+of founding the Wesleyan Mission in Fiji. From them they
+heard with joy that Taufaahau, the chief of the Happai group,—a
+man of indomitable courage and determination,—had recently
+visited King George at Tongatabu, in order to judge for himself
+of the new religion. He then returned to his own dominions
+accompanied by Tongan native teachers, and proceeded to destroy
+all the idols and altars, exhorting the chiefs to follow his example.
+Many were naturally indignant at this proceeding, and determined
+to celebrate a great festival in honour of the gods. Turtle and
+other sacred fish had to be caught for the offerings; so the highhanded
+chief, Taufaahau, profited by the delay to desecrate the
+temple by driving a herd of pigs into the sacred enclosure, and
+converting the temple itself into a sleeping-room for his women-servants—the
+presence of a woman being considered pollution to
+a <i>marae</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So utterly obnoxious to the gods was the female sex, that it was
+certain death for any woman to set foot in a temple—and when
+victims were about to be seized for sacrifice, the greatest care was
+taken to prevent the approach of any female relation, lest she
+should touch the corpse, and so render it unfit to be offered at the
+<i>marae</i>. When the worshippers arrived with their offerings of
+turtle, they found the poor gods all disrobed, hanging by the neck
+from the rafters; and knowing the stern resolution of their chief,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>they retired, discomfited. Having given this proof of his sincerity,
+Taufaahau next sent his best canoe to Tonga, to bring Mr
+Thomas, the missionary whose teaching had so impressed him; and
+who, in answer to this summons, started with his wife to make the
+journey of 200 miles in this open canoe, in order to follow up the
+work thus begun on Happai.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Vavau, the third group, the work seemed to have little prospect
+of success, so virulent was the opposition of Finau the high
+chief, who threatened death to any of his people who listened to
+the teachers. Yet within two years he was himself a zealous convert,
+and upwards of 2000 of his followers were in the habit of
+assembling for the Sunday services.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The teachers of the Tonga <i>lotu</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the Wesleyans—continued
+steadily working, and their influence spread as a leaven of good
+from isle to isle. At Tonga the Samoan party received an unlooked-for
+reinforcement in the person of Fauea, a Samoan chief,
+who had for some time been living in Tonga, and had there
+become a Christian. He requested Mr Williams to give him a
+passage in his ship, and proved an invaluable helper, directing him
+to steer for Savaii, the principal isle, of which he himself proved
+to be a high chief, and related to Malietoa, the greatest chief of all.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Fauea was a man of sound judgment and of most persuasive
+eloquence. But he was greatly troubled lest they should meet
+with violent opposition from Tamafainga, whom the people obeyed
+with trembling, believing that in him dwelt the spirit of the gods.
+It was therefore with unmixed relief that he heard, on his arrival,
+that this dreaded opponent had been killed a few days previously,
+and that there had not yet been time for the chiefs of all the isles
+to meet and elect his successor in the office of spiritual ruler.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So the Messenger of Peace was found to have arrived in the
+very nick of time, and all the people received Fauea and his
+<i>papalangi</i><a id='r26'></a><a href='#f26' class='c017'><sup>[26]</sup></a> friends with open arms. Malietoa, indeed, declared
+that he was engaged in a war of vengeance, in which he could not
+stay his hand, but that it should be the last; and that when
+peace was restored he would himself <i>lotu</i>—that is, become a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>Christian—and encourage all his people to do likewise. He and
+his brother Tamalelangi, or “Son of the Sky,” each promised to
+protect the native teachers and their wives, and gave them a
+hearty welcome as they landed; nevertheless, the old order passed
+away in flames and bloodshed, all to avenge the murder of the
+rapacious tyrant, who had actually been worshipped as a god, till
+the people could no longer endure his outrages and oppressions,
+and so waylaid and slew him.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Even at the moment when the teachers were landing on the
+island of Savaii, the mountains of Upolu, on the other side of the
+straits, were enveloped in flames and smoke, which told that a
+battle had been fought that very morning, and that not only were
+the plantations being destroyed, but that the women, children, and
+infirm people were all being murdered, and their bodies burnt in
+their villages. This sanguinary war continued for several months,
+and the country was so desolated that for miles together not a
+house was left standing; and even the villages which escaped
+were full of the sound of wailing and mourning for the dead, in
+whose honour the living lacerated their own flesh with broken
+shells and sharks’ teeth. When, finally, one party triumphed,
+they made huge bonfires, into which they threw many of the vanquished.
+Though the Samoans were never guilty of cannibalism,
+still there was enough of barbarous cruelty in their warfare to
+make a residence among them a very anxious experiment. Having
+done what they could to smooth the way for the teachers, Mr
+Williams and his colleague were obliged to leave them, in devout
+trust that their work might prosper.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Twenty months elapsed ere they were again able to return to
+Samoa, and marvellous, far beyond their highest hopes, was the
+change they found. On their first visit they had only touched at
+Savaii and Upolu, the most westerly of the Navigator group.
+Now the first land they sighted was Manua, the most easterly,
+about 250 miles distant from that on which the teachers were
+established. To their astonishment a number of canoes came out
+to meet them, and as they neared the vessel several natives stood
+up and declared themselves to be Christians, and that they were
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>waiting for a <i>falu lotu</i>—a religion-ship—to bring them a teacher
+who could tell them about Jesus Christ. Great was their disappointment
+when they heard that Mr Williams had only been
+able to secure one teacher, whom he had promised to leave on
+another isle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These people had received such knowledge as they possessed
+from a canoe which had drifted all the way from Rairavae, an
+island upwards of 300 miles to the south of Tahiti, and fully
+2000 miles from that where it at length arrived, after a three
+months’ voyage, in the course of which twenty of the party died
+of the hardships they underwent. But the survivors had carefully
+preserved their copy of the Tahitian translation of the Scriptures;
+and on reaching the unknown isle they built a reed-hut for their
+chapel, and there met daily for worship. Thus, among the strange
+and precious treasures which from time to time are cast up by the
+ocean on far-away isles, did the people of Manua receive the Word
+of Life.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Among those who had heard it gladly was a fine young fellow,
+a native of Leone, in the Isle Tutuila, to which he begged to be
+conveyed in the foreign ship, that he might teach his brethren
+what he had learnt. Thither they sailed, touching at the Isles
+Orosenga and Ofu, where as yet no rumour of the new teaching
+had been heard.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As they approached Tutuila, they were surrounded by a vast
+number of canoes filled with excessively wild-looking men, clamouring
+for powder and muskets, as they were on the eve of a great
+war with a neighbouring chief. No sign there of any leaven of
+good—in fact, the presence among them of a resident Englishman
+of the “beach-combing” fraternity, was anything but a hopeful
+indication. The amount of mischief done by even the average
+specimens of this class has been incalculable; but many have been
+miscreants of the deepest dye, whose crimes have aroused the
+horror of even the vilest heathen. Many of them were desperadoes—convicts
+escaped from New South Wales in stolen vessels,
+which they scuttled on reaching any desirable isle, where they
+generally contrived to make themselves useful in war, and so
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>secure the protection of some chief. One of these men, who made
+his way to Samoa, was said to have shot 200 persons with his
+musket, smearing himself with charcoal and oil to enable him to
+creep within range undetected. His delight at the end of such a
+day’s sport was to seat himself on a sort of litter, smeared with
+blood, surrounded by the heads of his victims, and so be carried
+home by his followers, yelling savage songs of triumph. Such
+men as these were not exactly calculated to improve the morals of
+the Pacific!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Passing on to beautiful Leone, which bore an evil character for
+savage cruelty and treachery, and the massacre of various boats’
+crews, the mission party beheld the people drawn up on the beach,
+in what appeared a formidable array. They, however, lowered
+the boat and neared the shore, when the chief, bidding his people
+sit down, waded up to his neck till he reached the strangers, and
+explained that he and his followers were no longer savage, but
+“sons of the word;” and went on to tell how, twenty moons
+previously, some of his people had been at Savaii when the white
+chief Williams had arrived there with some <i>tama-fai-lotu</i>, “workers
+of religion,” and having learnt a little, they had returned
+home with the news, and already fifty of the people had become
+Christians. Pointing to a group who sat somewhat apart, under
+the shade of the bread-fruit trees, and who each wore a strip of
+white native cloth tied round one arm, he said that those were the
+Christians, who had adopted that badge to distinguish them from
+the heathen; that they had built a place for prayer, in a thicket
+of bananas; and that one of their number from time to time
+crossed over to Savaii in his little canoe, to “get some more religion”
+from the teachers<a id='r27'></a><a href='#f27' class='c017'><sup>[27]</sup></a> to bring back to his own people.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On learning that the man he was addressing was the identical
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>“white chief” who had visited Savaii, he made a sign to his
+people, who rushed into the sea, and carried the boat and all who
+were in it high and dry on the beach in their enthusiastic welcome;
+but when they learnt that the religion-ship had brought no
+teacher for them, their disappointment was unbounded; and so,
+we may well believe, was that of the zealous apostle who had discovered
+these isles “white to the harvest,” but had failed to find
+reapers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So eager was the desire to know about the better way, that
+there were many places in the isles where the people, having only
+heard a dim rumour of what others had learnt, had actually built
+places for the worship of the unknown God, and, having prepared
+their food on the Saturday, assembled there at six o’clock each
+Sabbath morning, and again twice in the day, not for service,
+because none knew what to say, but to sit together in reverent
+silence, waiting for some revelation of His will. It seemed a
+strangely literal illustration of the words of the Hebrew prophet,
+“The isles shall wait for His law.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Passing on to the beautiful little isle of Manono, and the great
+isles of Savaii and Upolu, the missionaries were received with
+extravagant joy by teachers and people; and by the high chiefs
+with more nose-rubbing than was agreeable! They heard with
+delight that all the principal chiefs and many of the people had
+already declared themselves Christians, and had proved themselves
+in earnest by truly consistent conduct; and that the majority of
+the people had resolved to follow their good example. Upwards
+of a thousand sat breathlessly to hear the white man’s words,
+spoken in Tahitian, and interpreted by one of the teachers. Then
+Makea, the king of Rarotonga, a man of magnificent stature, who
+had accompanied Mr Williams, addressed the people, and explained
+how wonderful had been the change wrought in his own isles
+since they embraced the <i>lotu</i>;<a id='r28'></a><a href='#f28' class='c017'><sup>[28]</sup></a> how, in old days, they had been
+for ever fighting and murdering one another, till at length they
+had hearkened to the voice of the teachers, and, in fear and trembling,
+had brought their idols to be burnt, and had watched from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>afar while those daring men had cooked their bananas on the
+embers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here, in Samoa, there were very few idols, and no blood-stained
+<i>maraes</i>, altars, or temples; human sacrifice, or indeed any sort of
+sacrifice, was not required; hence the expression, “Godless as a
+Samoan,” by which the men of other groups described any one
+who neglected the service of the temples. The Samoans, however,
+were diligent in the worship of their own ancestors, and, moreover,
+supposed that the spirit of their gods animated divers birds, fishes,
+or reptiles. As certain Indian tribes have adopted different animals
+as their <i>totem-god</i>, so in Samoa and the Hervey Isles, each
+chief had his <i>etu</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, some living creature, which to him and to
+his people was sacred; and foreigners, ignorant of this matter,
+sometimes incurred serious danger from accidentally killing some
+revered reptile, or even insect. The man who found a dead body
+of his representative deity, say an owl, a heron, or a bat, would stop
+and wail piteously, beating his own forehead with stones till it bled;
+then wrapping up the poor dead creature with all reverence, he
+would solemnly bury it, with as much care as if it had been a near
+relation. This was supposed to be pleasing to the gods. When,
+therefore, any Samoan resolved to declare himself a Christian, he
+commenced by killing and eating the familiar spirit of his tribe,
+whether grasshopper, centipede, octopus, vampire-bat, snake, eel,
+lizard, parrot, or other creature.<a id='r29'></a><a href='#f29' class='c017'><sup>[29]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There was one chief who reverenced as his <i>etu</i> the fractured,
+but carefully mended, skull of a white man, whose firearms had
+won his admiration, though the man’s crimes had led to his
+being clubbed. An amusing story is told of the terror with
+which these simple folk first beheld a talking cockatoo in the
+cabin of a vessel. With a cry of dismay they rushed on deck
+and leapt overboard, declaring that the captain had his <i>etu</i> in the
+cabin, and that they had heard it talking to him.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The story of the conversion of these much tattooed but little
+clothed warriors abounds in picturesque detail. Thus, when the
+great chief Malietoa promised Mr Williams that he would become
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>a Christian so soon as he had fully avenged the death of Tamafainga,
+“in whom was the spirit of the evil gods,” before himself
+going forth to battle, he sent one of his sons to help the teachers
+to build their chapel. On his return, when the chapel was to be
+opened, he called his sons together and announced his intention of
+fulfilling his promise to the white chief. With one accord they
+replied that what was good for their father was good for them, and
+that they too would <i>lotu</i>. This, however, he forbade, declaring
+that if they obstinately insisted on so doing, he would continue in
+the faith of his ancestors. “Do you not know,” he said, “that the
+gods will be enraged with me and seek to destroy me? and perhaps
+Jehovah may not be strong enough to protect me against
+them! I purpose, therefore, to try the experiment. If He can
+protect me, you may safely follow my example; but if not, then I
+only shall perish.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The young men were reluctant to obey, and asked how long they
+must allow for this test. Malietoa suggested a month or six
+weeks; and intense was the interest with which all his people
+waited and watched, lest sickness or other evil should befall him.
+But when, at the end of three weeks, all went on prosperously, it
+was felt that the supremacy of the Christian’s God was established,
+and the sons of Malietoa would wait no longer. So, calling together
+a great company of friends and kinsmen, they proceeded
+solemnly to cook a large quantity of <i>anae</i>, a silvery fish, which
+was the <i>etu</i> of their tribe. These being laid on freshly gathered
+leaves, were placed before each person, and the teachers solemnly
+offered a prayer, ere, with fear and trembling, these young converts
+nerved themselves to swallow a few morsels of the sacred fish,
+hitherto held in such reverence. So intense, however, was the
+hold of the old superstition, that the young men, unable to conquer
+their fear lest the <i>etu</i> should gnaw their vitals and destroy
+them, immediately retired to swallow a large dose of cocoa-nut oil
+and salt water, which, acting as a powerful emetic, greatly tended
+to counteract any malignant influence of the offended gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Soon after this, a great meeting of chiefs was convened to
+consult on the fate of Papo, the venerable god of war. This
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>renowned relic was nothing but a strip of rotten old matting, about
+three yards long and four inches wide, which was always attached
+to the war-canoe of the highest chief when he went forth to battle.
+Now an impious voice suggested that this venerated rag should be
+thrown in the fire, but a burst of disapprobation silenced this cruel
+suggestion. However, all agreed that Papo must be exterminated;
+so as drowning was a less horrible death than burning, they resolved
+to launch a new canoe, in which a number of high chiefs
+should row out to sea, and, having fastened Papo to a heavy stone,
+should commit him to the deep. They had actually started on
+this errand, with great ceremony, when the teachers hurried after
+them in another canoe, to beg that the old war-god might be presented
+to Mr Williams. The chiefs were immensely relieved by
+the suggestion; and the venerable strip of matting is now to be
+seen in the museum of the London Mission.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I cannot solve the mystery of this Samoan reverence for certain
+ancient mats; but I well remember our astonishment, when the
+Samoan chiefs came to Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon on the
+question of British protection, to see with what infinite solemnity
+these fine stately men presented him with a very dirty and exceedingly
+unfragrant and tattered old mat, which, I believe, was to be
+offered to her Majesty Queenie Vikatoria, but has, I think, found
+an asylum in the British Museum. What makes this so very
+strange is, that the mats worn by the Samoan chiefs and ladies are
+beautifully fine and glossy, of most delicate straw-colour, and edged
+with handsome grass-fringe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Whatever may have been the origin of this form of antiquarian
+lunacy, its existence is an unmistakable reality. The Samoan chief
+treasures the dirty and ragged old mat of some revered ancestor as a
+British regiment does the tattered colours which find their honoured
+rest in some grey sanctuary. The old mat, which from generation to
+generation has been jealously guarded by his clan, is his patent of
+nobility, and the title-deed which proves his right to broad acres.
+Some of these strips of dirty old matting, which no rag-man would
+pick off a dust-heap, are known throughout the group by special
+names. There is one, which is known to be upwards of 200 years
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>old, during which period its successive guardians have all been
+duly enrolled. It is called <i>Moe-e-fui-fui</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the mat which slept
+beneath the vines—in allusion to its having lain hidden for several
+years among the lilac ipomeas which twine in matted tangles all
+along the sea-beach. No money would induce a Samoan to sell
+one of these unsavoury treasures: it is said that £100 might be
+offered in vain, though I certainly cannot imagine any sane person
+offering 100 pence.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>However, it is simply a form of relic-worship,—and probably no
+whit more foolish than the adoration of dirty clothes and kindred
+objects, supposed to have been hallowed by the touch of Christian
+or Buddhist saints. Indeed I am far more inclined to sympathise
+with the heathen Tahitian, who wore as an amulet the toe-nail of
+the father whom he had loved, than I can do with the multitudinous
+Christians who sanctify their altars by the presence of some
+splinter of saintly bone.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Amongst the many touching incidents of these early days, was
+that of one large village in which, contrary to the general course, all
+the women became Christians before any of the men did so. Mr
+Williams had reached a town called Amoa, the people of which had
+all accepted the <i>lotu</i>, when a party of seventy women approached
+in single file, each bearing a gift. At their head walked a tall
+handsome woman, with a mat, dyed red, folded about her loins,
+and the upper part of her body freely anointed with sweet-oil,
+tinged with turmeric. On her neck and arms she wore a necklace
+and bracelets of large blue beads; but her hair, alas! was all cut
+off, except one little lock falling over the left cheek. Her companions
+were equally picturesque,—the unmarried women being
+distinguished by their wearing a white mat, and no oil and
+turmeric, and by their retaining a profusion of graceful curls on
+one side of their head, while the other was shaven and shorn.
+The poorest girls wore only fringes of large leaves and wreaths of
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It appeared that the leader was a chiefess of high rank, who,
+some time previously, had come to Amoa, and there remained for
+a month, diligently attending to the instructions of the teachers.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>Then, returning to her own district, she had collected all the
+women, and told them all she had learnt, and so interested them
+in the subject, that a large number had agreed to renounce heathen
+worship. They built a leaf-hut for their church; and here the
+teacher from Amoa occasionally came to conduct service. At other
+times the chiefess herself did so, making frequent pilgrimages
+through the week to learn new lessons from the teacher, and returning
+to impart this wisdom to her companions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thus, within the short space of twenty moons, was Mr Williams
+allowed to see the beginning of an abundant harvest, where he had
+but scattered the seed; and a true grief saddened his heart when
+compelled to refuse the entreaties of chiefs and people that he
+would fetch his family and come to live and die among them, to
+teach them how to love Jesus Christ. But when he reminded
+them that there were eight isles in the group, and that he must
+return to England to fetch other teachers, they bade him Godspeed,—only
+praying that he would hasten back, because assuredly
+many of them would be dead ere his return.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This true apostle went on his way, carrying the light to many
+a region of darkness, till, in the year 1839, he reached the ill-fated
+shores of Eromanga, in the New Hebrides, which was the scene of
+his martyrdom. With his loved friend, James Harris, he had succeeded
+in obtaining a friendly reception on the neighbouring isle
+of Tanna, and there left three Samoan teachers to begin work
+among its hideous savages. Twenty miles further lies Eromanga,
+whose people are the most hopeless cannibals of the Pacific. As
+the brave men landed on the inhospitable isle, a host of armed
+savages rushed out from the bushes in which they were concealed.
+In an instant both were clubbed, and the bodies of the grand
+apostle of the South Seas and his young disciple became food for
+the miserable cannibals whom they longed to reclaim. It was the
+usual tale of revenge. These Eromangans had, shortly before,
+been cruelly ill-treated by a party of sandal-wood traders, who
+wantonly killed several natives on their attempting to defend their
+women, and to save their plantations from indiscriminate plunder.
+Naturally enough, these poor savages, seeing another foreign boat
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>land at the same spot as their enemies had done, failed to discriminate
+friend from foe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is impossible to overstate the amount of hindrance to mission
+work and to all civilising influences which has been occasioned by
+the lawless proceedings of unprincipled white men, too many of
+whom have proved themselves truly white barbarians. In their
+greedy craving for gain, they have so thoroughly quenched every
+spark of justice and honour in their dealings with the dark-skinned
+races, that on some of the Papuan Isles, the name by which the
+natives describe a white man means literally “a sailing profligate.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The vessels employed in the labour trade—<i>i.e.</i>, in “engaging”
+or <i>securing</i> men to work on plantations in Fiji or Australia—were
+by no means the only culprits, though the horrible cruelties practised
+by many of these in former years have been a disgrace to
+humanity. Nearly as much harm was done by men engaged in
+the sandal-wood trade, who gloried in defrauding the natives by
+every means in their power—promising certain articles in exchange
+for a given amount of sandal-wood, and on its receipt sailing away,
+to be no more heard of. Or perhaps they inveigled a chief on
+board, and there kept him as a hostage till his people brought large
+quantities of sandal-wood as his ransom; and having secured all
+they could get at that particular isle, they still refused to give up
+the chief—probably secured some of his followers, and carried
+them to another isle, where they forced them to work for months
+in cutting the coveted wood, and finally sold them to the natives,
+in exchange for yams and pigs—a man fetching from five to ten
+live pigs, according to his size. It is almost needless to say that
+the hostile natives merely purchased the strangers as food for the
+cannibal oven. Occasionally some of these unfortunates contrived
+to escape, and got on board whaling-ships, where they were kindly
+treated, and some were even taken back to their own isles. There
+were ships which fired unscrupulously on any village which failed
+to bring them sandal-wood. On one occasion three vessels engaged
+in this trade anchored off one of the New Hebrides. Their men
+plundered the yam-gardens and stole all the pigs, numbering
+several hundreds. Of course the owners resisted, and were
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>ruthlessly shot. Finally, many took refuge in a cave, when the
+white barbarians proceeded to pull down the houses and heap up
+the dry thatch and rafters at the mouth of the cave as fuel for a
+great bonfire. Of course all the inmates were suffocated. Such
+deeds as these, of course, led to reprisals; and Dr Turner says
+that, to his own knowledge, upwards of 320 men engaged in the
+sandal-wood traffic perished between the years 1839 and 1848.
+Such facts as these should be borne in mind, as affording the clue
+to many an unprovoked outrage by brown men on white. The
+tradition of past wrongs lingers long in savage races.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Within a year of John Williams’s murder, the Rev. George
+Turner and Rev. H. Nisbet attempted to commence work in the
+same field, but found it impossible. Even while they were
+struggling to maintain their position on the isle of Tanna, a
+whaling-ship touched there for water, and her men immediately
+fell to quarrelling with the natives, whereupon the vessel weighed
+anchor and sailed along the coast, firing promiscuously into all the
+villages she passed. There would not have been much cause for
+wonder if the savages (who had seen Mr Turner directing these
+men where to find water) had at once turned on him and his companions
+and murdered them all. As it was, they continued to
+brave the perils of their position for some months ere they were
+compelled to fly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When Mr Turner revisited Eromanga in 1859, the Rev. ——
+Gordon, who was then settled there, told them that a few months
+previously another sandal-wood trader had got into serious trouble,
+and three of his men had been killed by the natives; but he himself
+acknowledged that they had earned their fate. On that occasion
+the Eromangans had the discrimination to spare the righteous;
+but not long afterwards Mr Gordon and his wife were cruelly
+murdered.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Eleven years passed, when a message reached the Rev. J. D.
+Gordon (brother of the above) praying him to come and heal some
+sick children at Eromanga. As a medical missionary he at once
+complied, only to hear on his arrival that the children were dead;
+and their father could find no solace for his blind, ungrateful
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>grief, but to slay the medicine-man who had arrived too late. One
+blow from his tomahawk added yet another to the grievous list of
+the martyrs of Eromanga.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the mission station at Apia, on the isle of Upolu, on the
+very spot where John Williams first landed in Samoa, and
+where he stood to bid what proved to be his last farewell to the
+people—two graves lying side by side contain some bones brought
+to Samoa in 1840 by H.M.S. Favourite, in the belief that they
+were those of the martyrs. It is now, however, known that they
+were bones taken at random by the natives from a cave where
+they are wont to deposit their own dead, under the impression
+that the foreign ship wished to purchase human bones. The skull
+of John Williams is buried beneath a palm-tree on Eromanga,
+which is doubtless as quiet a resting-place as a foreign grave in
+turbulent Apia. Near it, was buried a small bit of red sealing-wax,
+about an inch and a half in length, which was found by the
+natives in his pocket, and supposed to be a foreign idol. This
+relic was afterwards disinterred and sent home to his children.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I think the attempt to recover the remains of the dead from
+their savage murderers is at best very unsatisfactory. We had a
+fair example of it in Fiji, where great efforts were made to recover
+the bones of the Rev. —— Baker, who was there killed and eaten.
+So successful was this endeavour that one mission station alone
+has received three skulls, all positively declared to be his!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While both the London Mission and the Wesleyans have done
+such excellent work in Samoa, it is to be regretted that a corner
+of rivalry should have contrived to creep in—a rootlet of bitterness—not
+very serious perhaps, but still a corner of contention.
+It appears that at the time when Mr Williams first landed in
+Samoa, in 1830, several native teachers from the Wesleyan Mission
+in Tonga had already begun to work there, and the promise of
+white teachers had already been made to expectant congregations.
+When, therefore, in 1835, the Rev. Peter Turner, of the Wesleyan
+Mission, reached the isle of Manono, he was received with open
+arms by a zealous flock; and when, shortly afterwards, he travelled
+round the isles of Savaii and Upolu, he found more than 2000
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>persons who were members of the Tonga <i>lotu</i>, and 40 persons who
+were acting as teachers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At that time the Tahiti <i>lotu</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the London Mission—was
+only represented by five or six Tahitian teachers, who were located
+at certain towns, and confined their labours to their immediate
+neighbourhood. On Mr Turner’s arrival he commenced diligently
+seeking the people in all parts of the isles, with such marked result
+that within twenty months upwards of 13,000 persons had
+joined the Tonga <i>lotu</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Wesleyans specially note that Mr Turner was the first
+resident white missionary in Samoa. Some months after his
+arrival came a trading ship, which brought Mr Pratt, as representative
+of the London Mission; and in 1836, six missionaries of the
+London Society arrived and held a public meeting in the Tahitian
+chapel at Manono, when it was clearly proved that a considerable
+number of Samoans had adopted the Tonga <i>lotu</i> before the arrival
+of Mr Williams, though they only met for worship quietly in their
+own homes. The Tahitian teachers were the first who began to
+conduct public services, but their adherents were found to be
+numerically fewer than those of the Tongans.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Stress is laid on these details, because it was alleged by the
+London Mission that Messrs N. Turner and Cross had agreed
+with Mr Williams to devote their efforts to the Fijian group, and
+leave the Navigator’s Isles to the London Mission. Messrs Turner
+and Cross, on the other hand, entirely repudiate any such compact,
+and state that the first they heard of it was when the London
+missionaries arrived in Samoa, where their agent was already established,
+in accordance with their promise to the friendly chiefs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As neither party were inclined to yield, both missions continued
+to work simultaneously, each acknowledging the good work done
+by the other, yet regretting the division, which might so easily
+have been avoided. However, it has been a sacrifice of uniformity
+rather than of unity; and I suppose the Church militant must
+always be made up of divers regiments.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I believe the London Mission has at present seven congregational
+ministers in Samoa, and seventy-five native teachers. Their
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>nominal adherents number about 30,000. The Australasian Wesleyan
+Mission has two white missionaries and one native minister.
+These superintend the work of 50 teachers and 85 local preachers.
+There are 47 chapels, with 1200 church members, and congregations
+numbering altogether about 5000.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Roman Catholics number about 4000.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As has been the case throughout Polynesia, many of the new
+converts have become earnest missionaries; and not only have
+several Samoan teachers found their way to Fiji, but when in its
+turn the infant Church in that group determined to commence a
+mission among the savage races of New Britain, two Samoan
+teachers volunteered to accompany their Fijian brethren on this
+noble but dangerous enterprise. Others have gone to settle in the
+very uninviting Gilbert and Kingsmill groups, close to the equator,
+amongst hideous tribes of the lowest type, whose barren isles fail
+to yield any manner of crop; so that for lack of better diet, the
+unpalatable fruit of the pandanus, which in Samoa is only used
+for stringing into necklaces, is accounted an important item of
+food. For love of these poor souls these self-denying men give up
+their own most lovely homes, and bid a lifelong farewell to parents
+and kindred. Many a bitter scene has been enacted on these
+shores, when aged relatives, clinging to these dear ones with all
+the demonstrative love of the warm southern temperament, follow
+the mission-boat as it pushes off, and wade up to the shoulders,
+weeping and wailing for those who may never come back to them,
+and knowing full well how many have already fallen in the hard-fought
+battle. Certainly these Samoan teachers have given good
+proof of their zeal and willingness to endure hardship, as good
+soldiers of the Cross.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'>NOTE ON ETU OR TOTEM WORSHIP.</h3>
+
+<p class='c020'>We are so much in the habit of considering this strange worship of
+representative animals, in connection with the simple superstitions of
+such utterly uncivilised races as these poor savages of the Pacific Isles, or
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>the Indian tribes of America, that it is startling to recollect how large a
+place it held in the intricate mythology of so wise and learned a people
+as the ancient Egyptians, who not only excelled in all arts of peace and
+war, but seem to have mastered many of those mysteries of science which
+still perplex the learned men of the nineteenth century. Long ere the
+Greeks and Israelites had learnt their earliest lessons from the sages
+from Egypt, and while Rome was but a village of mud-huts, the banks
+of the Nile were graced with buildings, which, in their stately beauty,
+rivalled the marvels of Babel. Prominent among these was the temple
+of the sacred bull Mnevis. The patron god of Memphis was the golden
+bull Apis, to whom pure white bulls were sacrificed; while in his honour
+jet-black bulls were worshipped during life, and after death were
+embalmed, and preserved in sarcophagi of polished black basalt. Only
+their bones were preserved, swathed in linen, and tied up so as to resemble
+an animal lying down. A full-grown bull thus prepared was no
+bigger than a calf, while a calf was the size of a dog. Thirty-three of
+these sacred bull-mummies were found in the catacombs, each in its own
+sarcophagus.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>Other catacombs were entirely devoted to the mummies of sacred dogs
+and cats, beetles and mice, hawks and ibis, each neatly strapped up in
+linen and sealed up in a red earthenware jar. These are found packed
+like the contents of some vast wine-cellar—tier behind tier, and in layers
+reaching to the roof of the catacombs, some of which are large caves,
+with endless ramifications; yet chamber after chamber of these vast
+storehouses are all alike closely packed with this vast multitude of
+mummy-jars, accumulated by countless generations of reverent worshippers.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>Strangest of all these sepulchres of sacred creatures, are the crocodile
+mummy-pits, in which are stored a vast assemblage of crocodiles of all
+sizes, from the patriarch measuring twelve or fourteen feet in length, to
+the poor baby only five inches long, each wrapped up in palm-leaves.
+Thousands of these little demigods, about eighteen inches long, are tied
+together in bundles of eight or ten, and swathed in coarse cloth. True
+believers in the crocodile-headed god Savak, kept these creatures tame in
+a great crocodile city near the artificial lake Mœris, where they were fed
+with cake and roast meat, washed down by draughts of mulled wine; their
+fore-feet were adorned with golden bracelets, and their ears were pierced
+and enriched with precious gems. But the worshippers had to fight the
+battles of their gods against various irreverent neighbours, notably
+against the people of Elephantine, who, so far from worshipping the
+crocodile, considered it a dainty dish, to be eaten as often as it could be
+captured.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>So well known to their contemporaries was this Egyptian reverence
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>for certain birds, beasts, and insects, that on at least one occasion it
+proved a valuable aid to their foes, as when Cambyses captured a city,
+by forming a vanguard of all manner of animals—cats and dogs, bulls
+and goats—assured that one or other must be held sacred by the
+besieged; and so it proved, for the latter dared not throw a dart lest
+they should injure their “bleating gods.”</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>Each of these had their especial sacred city, where their precious
+remains were embalmed and their mummies stored. Dogs and ichneumons
+might indeed be buried in their own cities, but hawks and shrew-mice
+were generally conveyed to Buto, and ibises to Hermopolis.
+Onuphis was the city specially dedicated to the worship of the asp; but
+all manner of serpents were worshipped in gorgeous temples over the
+length and breadth of the land, and the reptiles were fed with flour and
+honey by their appointed priests, and their bodies eventually embalmed
+with all possible reverence. Cat-mummies were stored in the sacred city
+of Bubastis; goats at Mendes; wolves were preserved in pits near Sioux;
+while the ram, sacred to the sun, was worshipped at Thebes, the sun city.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>The death of a cat was considered so dire a misfortune, that if a house
+were to take fire the Egyptians would let it burn to the ground, if only
+they could rescue the cats, which, however, had an awkward trick of
+jumping into the flames. Should one of these perish, all the inmates of
+the house shaved their eyebrows. Should a dog die, the head and beard
+were also shaved. Each species of animal had its appointed guardians
+to feed and tend them, the office being hereditary. A heavy fine attended
+any accident which befell these precious creatures; and should one
+perish through carelessness, the life of the keeper was forfeit, more
+especially if the victim were an ibis or a hawk, for whose death there
+was no forgiveness.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>The hawk, whose piercing eye can so fearlessly gaze upon the sun, was
+the special type of that great source of light. It was worshipped in
+Heliopolis and the other sun temples, where living birds were kept in
+cages, and pictures of sacred hawks, seated amidst lotus-plants, adorned
+the walls. With such reverence were they treated, that when the
+Egyptian hosts went forth to battle, they carried their hawks with their
+armies; and should some chance to die in foreign lands, their bodies
+were embalmed, and brought to Egypt to be buried in consecrated tombs.
+Thus numerous hawk-mummies have been discovered at Thebes and
+elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>Hence it would appear that each of these creatures was the <i>totem</i>, or
+representative animal of some tribe, which bestowed thereon all due
+veneration in life and in death. Probably the <i>totem</i> of one tribe would
+receive no honour from the next. Hence the battles already alluded to
+between the cities which worshipped crocodiles and those which ate
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>them! and the still more deadly civil wars that raged between the
+worshippers of the Oxyrinchus fish and the dog-worshippers of Cynopolis,
+when the latter were guilty of fishing in the Nile, and not only
+capturing the holy fish, but also eating them.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>No salmon commissioners could be more wrathful at the wilful
+destruction of salmon-fry than were these fish-adoring Egyptians when
+tidings of the crime reached their city. Swift vengeance followed; for
+the deified dogs, worshipped by the gluttonous offenders, were caught and
+sacrificed to appease the wrath of the fish-gods, their flesh affording a
+delicious feast for the priests. This of course led to a prolonged civil
+war, and the sacking of towns and bloodshed were only checked by the
+arrival of the Roman legions, who punished both parties, and reduced
+them to order. Such wars continued from time to time, even so late as
+the fourth century after Christ, by which time, however, various cities
+(notably that of Oxyrinchus) had adopted the new faith, and the cells
+set apart for sacred animals were tenanted by the monks.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>If we follow out this subject, it may perhaps bring us nearer home
+than we imagine; for just as the Australian blacks are divided into
+clans bearing the name of the animal, or even the plant, from which they
+believe themselves to be descended, and which they must on no account
+eat or gather—and are thus known as “The Black Snakes,” “The
+Swans,” “The Turtles,” “The Kangaroos,” &#38;c.,—so our antiquarians tell
+us, that many of our tattooed or painted Anglo-Saxon ancestors bore the
+names of animals or plants, which doubtless were in truth the <i>totem</i> of
+their family. Thus the Bercings and Thornings traced their descent from
+the birch and thorn, and the Bockings from the beech; and the homes
+of these families still bear such names as Bocking, Birchington, and
+Thornington. Elmington and Oakington are supposed to have been
+peopled by sons of the elm and of the oak; while Ashendon recalls the
+Ashings or Æscings, who bore the name of the sacred ash-tree; and the
+Fearnings of Farningham were supposed to descend from a humble fern.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>Buckingham and Berrington are said to have derived their names from
+the Buccings and Berings, sons of the buck and of the bear; while the
+followers of the wolf did him honour by bestowing on their children
+such names as Wulfing, Eadwulf, Beowulf, or Ethelwulf. The sacred
+white horse (whose image remains to this day on the downs of Westbury
+and Wantage, as clearly defined as when first our Saxon ancestors scraped
+the green grass from off the chalk hillside) was the symbol reverenced by
+all Aryan races, and Hengest and Horsa, the leaders of the early English,
+bore names which entitled them to command their fellows. They have
+left their mark in such territorial names as Hengestesdun, Horstead,
+Horsington, and many more. The Otterings of Otterington owed allegiance
+to the otter.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'><span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>The snake was as much revered in Britain as in all other corners of
+the world, and no disrespect was implied in describing him as a worm.
+Hence the family of Wyrmings, and such geographical traces as Wormington,
+Wormingford, and even Ormskirk and Great Orm’s (or Worm’s)
+Head. The Earnings were adherents of the earn or eagle; the Everings
+or Eoferings of <i>Eofer</i>, the wild boar, whose home was at Eversley. Raveningham
+and Cockington are said to bear the name of the old lords of
+the soil, the sons of the raven and of the cock; while the Fincings of
+Finchingfield and the Thryscings of Thrushington, are said to represent
+the families who adopted the Thrush and the Finch as their <i>totem</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c021'>Altogether there appears good reason to infer that the reverence for
+birds and beasts, fishes and reptiles, which excites our compassionate
+wonder in reading of poor untutored savages, such as these Samoans, was
+once a powerful influence in our own British Isles.<a id='r30'></a><a href='#f30' class='c017'><sup>[30]</sup></a></p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER X.<br> <span class='c009'>LEAVE SAMOA—REACH TAHITI—GREY SHADOWS—DEATH OF QUEEN POMARE—LA LOIRE AND HER PASSENGERS—A GENERAL DISPERSION—LIFE ASHORE AT PAPEETE—ADMIRAL SERRE AND THE ROYAL FAMILY—FAMILIES OF SALMON AND BRANDER—ADOPTION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate, Apia</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening, 30th September</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is finally settled that I am really going on to Tahiti. From
+what I have told you, you can fully understand that Samoa would
+not be an inviting place in which to lie stranded for an unlimited
+period; and though I, individually, have received the greatest possible
+kindness from many of the foreign residents, and from the
+Samoan chiefs of both parties, still the whole atmosphere is tainted
+with lies and the strivings of self-interest, and is altogether unwholesome.
+So I have definitely accepted the invitation so repeatedly
+and heartily given, and to-morrow I am to return on board the
+Seignelay.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>I have just received letters from some, and messages from all on
+board, expressing cordial pleasure at my decision, especially from
+M. de Gironde, whose cabin I occupy; so I really feel that I shall
+be a welcome guest.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The great difficulty will lie beyond Tahiti, but I must e’en trust
+to my luck.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is also decided that the bishop is to proceed at once to France,
+both on Church business and for medical advice. It is a good
+thing that he is so soon to leave this place, where he is terribly
+worried by the attempt to reconcile so many conflicting interests.
+He looks much worse than when we arrived.<a id='r31'></a><a href='#f31' class='c017'><sup>[31]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning he officiated at High Mass; and all the men and
+officers of the Seignelay attended in full uniform. The service was
+choral, and of course the church was crowded. I passed it on my
+way to a very small Congregational chapel, where Dr Turner conducted
+an English service. We met numbers of people on their
+way to the Protestant native churches; and I was amused to observe
+how many carried their Bibles neatly folded up in a piece of white
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span><i>tappa</i>; just as an old wife in Scotland would wrap hers in a white
+handkerchief!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the afternoon my hostess accompanied me to the convent,
+where the children sang prettily while we sat in the pleasant garden.
+The sisters bade me good-bye quite sadly. “It has been
+<i>des adieux</i> all day,” said one.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On Board Le Seignelay</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Monday, 1st October</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>M. de Gironde came at daybreak to escort me on board. All
+the Puletoa chiefs crowded round to say good-bye—and I ran down
+the garden for a last word with their “orator,” a fine young fellow,
+who was nursing his new-born baby in the large native house. His
+wife is such a nice pretty young woman. I felt quite sorry to leave
+them all, not knowing what may be the next tidings of woe. We
+know that war may be renewed at any moment.<a id='r32'></a><a href='#f32' class='c017'><sup>[32]</sup></a></p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Saturday, 6th October 1877.</i></div>
+      <div class='line in4'>(<i>Tossing a good deal.</i>)</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>With a dreary waste of grey waters on every side of us, and no
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>trace of land save two inquisitive boobies, which have for some
+hours been flying round us, it is hard to realise that to-morrow we
+are to enter the far-famed harbour of Papeete, and that by this time
+to-morrow evening we shall be ashore, listening to the <i>himènes</i> of
+the multitude assembled for the great feast which begins the next
+day—a great feast, by the way—held in honour of the anniversary
+of the Protectorate! I wonder how poor old Queen Pomare likes it!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We left Samoa on Monday, 1st October, and the next day was
+also called Monday, October 1st, to square the almanacs, so that we
+can say we had done the 1700 miles in just a week. The weather
+has been considerably against us, but extra steam was put on to
+insure catching this mail, as great stress is evidently laid on not
+losing a day in reporting the proceedings at Samoa to the Home
+Government. The amount of reports written since we started has
+been something prodigious!...</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>What with all this writing going on, and the extra motion of the
+vessel from travelling at such unwonted speed, life has not been so
+tranquilly pleasant as in the previous weeks. I have had quite to
+give up my cosy studios on the big gun-carriage, or my quiet corner
+of the bridge. Instead of these, I have found a place of refuge and
+a hearty welcome in <i>le carré</i> (the gun-room), which does not dance
+so actively as the captain’s cabin, over the screw. In it at this
+moment a select set are either reading or writing their home letters,
+ready for the ’Frisco<a id='r33'></a><a href='#f33' class='c017'><sup>[33]</sup></a> mail, which is supposed to sail from Tahiti
+on Monday morning....</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>(At this point, a wave breaking over the ship, trickled down on
+my head through the skylight. Hence the smudge. I wonder how
+you would write with the table alternately knocking your nose and
+then rolling you over to the opposite side of the cabin!)</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Every creature on board is rejoicing at the prospect of returning
+to the Tahitian Elysium. To me this has been a dream ever since
+my nursery days, when the big illustrated volumes of old voyages
+that lay in my father’s dressing-room were the joy of many a happy
+hour, combined with such sticks of barley-sugar as I can never find
+at any confectioner’s nowadays! There we first read the romantic
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>story of how Captain Cook discovered those isles of beauty, and
+named them after the “Royal Society” which had sent him to
+explore these unknown seas. The Tahiti of to-day is doubtless a
+very different place from the Otaheite of 1774.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course, in a highly organised French colony much of the old
+romance must have passed away with its dangers. But the natural
+loveliness of the isle cannot have changed, and I look forward with
+great delight to seeing it all.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Every one speaks in the highest terms of Mr Miller, our long-established
+English consul, and his charming Peruvian wife (so
+Lord Pembroke describes her). Both are intimate friends of Captain
+Aube and the bishop, who will commit me to their care on
+arriving. I have also an excellent introduction to Mr Green, the
+head of the London Mission; and M. Vernier, of the French Protestant
+Mission, was once for some months at Inveraray. I hear
+golden opinions both of Mrs Green and Mme. Vernier, and of M.
+and Mme. Viennot, of the same mission. So amongst them all, I
+have no doubt that I shall be all right.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But I cannot quite forget what a hideous future lies beyond.
+The total distance I have travelled in this large comfortable steamer,
+from Fiji to Tahiti, including trips from isle to isle, has been 2985
+miles. From Tahiti (after this good ship has sped on her way to
+Valparaiso) there remain two courses before me—either to go to
+New Zealand, 3000 miles, or to Honolulu, 3200 miles,—in either
+case in a small sailing vessel, starting at some uncertain period.
+There is a monthly mail to San Francisco, but that is only a
+schooner of about 120 tons; and <i>viâ</i> San Francisco would be
+rather a circuitous route to Sydney! where I expect to meet Lady
+Gordon somewhere about Christmas. It is a hideous prospect, but
+I have too much faith in my luck to be deeply concerned about it.
+The worst of it all is, that I cannot possibly receive any letters till
+I arrive in Sydney, which may, I fear, be some time hence.</p>
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/p1522_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>OPUNOHU BAY. ISLE MOOREA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>As my wardrobe will by that time be considerably the worse for
+wear, you will do well to send out a box of sundry garments to
+await my arrival, otherwise I shall be reduced to appearing in a
+graceful drapery of <i>tappa</i>, with fringes of crimson dracæna leaves;
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>but though the dress of Oceania is very becoming to the young
+and beautiful, the world of Sydney is hardly up to it,—and besides,
+I fear it would be scarcely suitable for old grand-aunts
+(<i>presque grand’mère</i>), as one of my French friends put it yesterday!
+It certainly is rather a shame to let you have all this
+trouble, while I have the fun of exploring such strange lands; but
+it is a sort of division of labour, whereby you pay your tax to the
+family locomotive demon, who drives all the rest of us so hard,
+but leaves you in peace in Britain, to do your share of wandering
+by deputy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now, as it is getting late, I must turn in, as I want to be up at
+grey dawn to see beautiful Moorea (the Eimeo of our childhood),
+and we shall sail close past it, as we make Papeete harbour. So
+good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In Harbour, Papeete, Tahiti</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Sunday Morning, 7th Oct</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Well, we have reached Tahiti, but really I am beginning to fear
+that, like most things to which we have long looked forward, this
+is likely to prove disappointing. We came in this morning in a
+howling storm, <i>un gros coup de vent</i>, and everything looked dismal.
+Though we coasted all along Moorea, the envious clouds capped
+the whole isle, only showing a peak here and there. Certainly
+such glimpses as we did catch were weirdly grand; huge basaltic
+pinnacles of most fantastic shape towering from out the sea of
+billowy white clouds, which drifted along those black crags. And
+below the cloud canopy lay deep ravines, smothered in densest
+foliage, extending right down to the grey dismal sea, which broke
+in thunder on the reef. With strong wind and tide against us as
+we crossed from Moorea to Tahiti, you can fancy what a relief it
+was when, passing by a narrow opening through the barrier-reef,
+we left the great tossing waves outside, and found ourselves in this
+calm harbour, which to-day is sullen and grey as a mountain-tarn.
+At first we could see literally nothing of the land; but it is now a
+little clearer, and through the murky mist we see a fine massive
+mountain rising above a great gorge beyond the town. But in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>general effect of beauty this is certainly not equal to Ovalau, and
+even the town looks little better than Levuka,<a id='r34'></a><a href='#f34' class='c017'><sup>[34]</sup></a> though it is
+certainly more poetic, the houses being all smothered in foliage.
+But then it is fine-weather foliage—all hybiscus and bread-fruit,—the
+former, of that very blue-green tint, which in rain looks as grey
+as an olive-grove; while each glossy leaf of the bread-fruit is a
+mirror, which exactly reflects the condition of the weather—glancing
+bright in sunlight, but to-day only repeating the dull hue of
+the leaden clouds.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For indeed it is a dreary grey day, sea and sky alike dull and
+colourless, all in keeping with the sad news with which the pilot
+greeted us as he came on board—namely, that Queen Pomare died
+a fortnight ago (on the 17th September); so we have just missed
+seeing the good old queen of my infantile romantic visions. Her
+eldest son, Prince Ariiaue, has been proclaimed king under the
+hereditary name, and is henceforth to be known as Pomare V.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the people are all in deepest dule, and instead of the great
+rejoicings and balls, and <i>himènes</i>, and varied delights of the <i>fête
+Napoléon</i> (or rather its republican substitute, the anniversary of
+the Protectorate), on the 9th October, for which we had expected to
+find joyous crowds assembled—always ready for an excuse for
+music and dancing—a festival to which my friends have been
+looking forward all the voyage,—instead of this, we see the
+crowds pouring out of the native church, all dressed in the deepest
+mourning, from their crape-trimmed black hats, to their black
+flowing robes, which are worn from the throat, and with sleeves
+down to the wrist; they trail on the ground in sweeping trains,
+and are so long in front that even the bare feet are covered.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There are no flowers, no fragrant wreaths, no arrowroot crowns,
+no snowy plumes of <i>reva-reva</i>—even the beautiful raven tresses of
+the women have all been cut off. This is mourning with a vengeance;
+and the Court circular has commanded that the whole
+nation shall wear the garb of woe for six months. I do hope that
+at least the commoners will disobey this injunction! At present
+all the men appear like black crows. Apparently many are disfigured
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>by foreign dress-coats; and even those who retain the
+national <i>pareo</i> (which is the Tahitian word for <i>sulu</i> or waist-cloth)
+are wearing black <i>tappa</i> or black calico; and their heads are closely
+cropped. So sadly disfiguring! and so terribly subversive of all
+our preconceived visions of Papeete, as the very ideal of light, and
+mirth, and soft sunlit colour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The even tenor of life in Tahiti has received several startling
+shocks since the 24th August, when the French Admiral Serre arrived
+here in the steam-frigate Magicienne, bringing the new governor,
+M. Brunnet Millet. But, sad to say, Madame Brunnet Millet
+died on the voyage from sheer sea-sickness; and her poor husband,
+who adored her, became positively imbecile from grief, so that he
+had to resign office immediately on his arrival.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>His natural successor would have been M. La Barbe, who, however,
+had made himself generally obnoxious to the Tahitians, and
+to the queen in particular, by the injudiciously severe penalties
+which he enforced for some of her son’s peccadilloes. She therefore
+wrote to the admiral to say that if La Barbe became governor,
+she would at once leave Tahiti and retire to Moorea, thus leaving
+all business at a dead-lock. Thereupon the admiral promised that
+her will should be respected, and announced that he would himself
+assume the office of governor, till such time as a fresh appointment
+could be made in Paris. La Barbe remonstrated. The admiral
+bade him be silent. He persisted, and was immediately placed
+under arrest for fourteen days, at the end of which time his sword
+was returned to him, and he had to put it on, and go to thank the
+admiral formally for his goodness in restoring it! But as his
+presence in the Isles would thenceforth have been unpleasant, he
+and his wife and grown-up son, together with M. Brunnet Millet,
+have been shipped as passengers on board La Loire, which is now
+lying alongside of us, on the eve of sailing for France. She is a
+great big line-of-battle ship, transformed into a transport, for the
+conveyance of convicts from France to New Caledonia, but returns
+comparatively empty. So far, her passenger list does not sound
+cheerful!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The moment we reached our moorings, a boat was despatched in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>hot haste to convey to the admiral the despatches concerning the
+little episode in Samoa. I fear our kind captain is not free from
+misgivings as to the light in which that unlucky business may be
+viewed by his superior officer.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>H.B.M. Consulate, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Sunday Evening</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Alas! alas! the wretched Samoan adventure has indeed ended
+most lamentably. The admiral, who from all accounts is a very
+severe stern man, had no sooner read Captain Aube’s report, than
+he signalled for him to go on board La Magicienne, and informed
+him, that as <i>he</i> was quite incapable of understanding his line of
+action at Samoa, the only thing he could do was to send him back
+to France, as a passenger in La Loire, that he might himself explain
+his motives at headquarters;<a id='r35'></a><a href='#f35' class='c017'><sup>[35]</sup></a> in short, he removed him from
+his command of the Seignelay.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Ten minutes later, the fine old sailor returned on board the vessel
+that was no longer his, to announce this dreadful news to his
+officers, on whom the blow fell like a thunderbolt. For, as I have
+told you, they have all lived together on the most cordial terms;
+and no family, losing a dearly loved father, could be more utterly
+wretched than are all on board, both officers and men. Many
+fairly broke down; and I am sure I do not wonder, for it is a
+lamentable break-up of <i>such</i> a happy ship-family. What a <i>bouleversement</i>
+of all the pleasant pictures we were conjuring up only
+last night! Certainly this is a very heavy penalty for what was,
+at the worst, an error in judgment.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The regret on shore is almost as great as on the vessel; for
+Commandant Aube is well known here, and exceedingly popular
+with all the foreign residents, who had hoped that he would be
+appointed Governor of Tahiti. This is a grievous ending to our
+delightful voyage, and I need not tell you how downhearted I feel
+about it all. I could almost wish that we had never gone near
+miserable Samoa, with all its jars and hatreds.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>I must close this letter, as the little mail-schooner Nautilus sails
+for San Francisco in the morning, taking as passengers Monseigneur
+Elloi and M. Pinart. They hope to be able so to represent
+matters at Washington and in Paris as to put the Samoan episode
+in the best possible light.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I grieve to say the bishop is very ill; all these worries are very
+trying to him, and he loses ground daily. The prospect of so long
+a voyage in a little schooner of about 200 tons, with very mixed
+society, is anything but pleasant for an invalid, and a trying change
+from the comforts of the big ship. The actual distance is 4000
+miles, and the voyage may be made in twenty-five days. But with
+contrary winds, the distance is sometimes increased to 6000 miles,
+and the voyage occupies six weeks! So I cannot tell at what date
+this letter will reach you.—Good-bye.<a id='r36'></a><a href='#f36' class='c017'><sup>[36]</sup></a></p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>the Rev. James Green</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>London Mission</span>, <i>9th Oct.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-day has concluded the tragedy. Last night (after a farewell
+dinner with his officers, and a few touching last words to his men,
+who wept bitterly, sobbing aloud like children, and who cheered
+him lustily as he left the ship) Commandant Aube came ashore to
+take leave of his friends here, and at the British consulate. He
+was accompanied by his faithful dog, Fox, a poor sickly hound, on
+whom he has lavished infinite care and kindness throughout the
+voyage, but which he will leave here in charge of a Tahitian; so
+he starts on this sad voyage without even his dog as a companion.
+We escorted him to the shore, and sorrowfully watched his boat
+making for La Loire, the old line-of-battle ship, which sailed this
+morning with so sad a company. The poor Seignelay had the
+odious task of towing her out of harbour; and, as the ships parted,
+all the men burst into uncontrollable shouts of “Vive notre commandant!”—a
+spontaneous demonstration, which must have been
+more satisfactory to its hero than to the stern admiral.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>Just then an accident happened, which might have proved very
+serious. La Loire accidentally slipped a great tow-rope, which got
+entangled in the screw of the Seignelay; and, misunderstanding the
+signal to lower sail, the ponderous old vessel nearly ran down the
+lighter steam-ship, which could neither work her screw nor answer
+to her helm, but had to hoist sail and run before the wind. Being
+unable to turn, she had to sail straight out to sea for some hours,
+far out of sight.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I watched this inexplicable movement from the semaphore—a
+high station commanding a magnificent view of town and harbour,
+and of the distant isle of Moorea. The old sailor in charge was
+as much perplexed as myself. He decided that the Seignelay
+must have been despatched to the Marquesas or elsewhere, with
+secret orders; while I decided that she must have “revolutioned,”
+and gone off to France. However, this evening she returned,
+under sail, and was able to go to the assistance of a vessel
+that had drifted on to the reef; so, on the whole, it was rather a
+fortunate episode, as it helped to distract the thoughts of all on
+board.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Most of the residents here, bitterly as they regret the whole
+business, seem to agree that the admiral has really taken the wisest
+course, both as preventing (in the sense of <i>prévenant</i>) any possible
+remonstrance from England—in case she should espouse the cause
+of that very shady Anglo-American Fijian-Samoan house, with its
+convenient variety of flags—and perhaps, also, as saving M. Aube
+from harder judgment in France. But of course none of the
+officers can realise what a foolish episode that night’s work appears
+to every one here.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have not yet told you anything of my own movements.
+On Sunday afternoon, M. de Gironde escorted me to the British
+consulate, there duly to report myself to Mr Miller, who for thirty
+years has been England’s popular representative here; indeed he
+has never left Tahiti since the day he first landed here, with his
+bright, sensible, little Peruvian bride. Now they have three
+grown-up sons, and a pleasant daughter, married to M. Fayzeau,
+a French naval officer, in charge of native affairs. He is a charming
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>musician, and most graceful artist, and has promised to make
+my way easy for several sketching expeditions.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I had not been an hour ashore, when (on the strength of a letter
+of introduction from Dr Turner of Malua) I received the very
+kindest invitation from Mr and Mrs Green to come and stay with
+them in this their lovely home, just out of the town, and close to
+the consulate—a delightful nest, embowered in mango and bread-fruit
+trees, with oleanders and hybiscus to lend colour to the whole.
+It is only separated from the sea by the pleasant garden and a belt
+of turf; so there is nothing to impede the view of the beautiful
+harbour and blue peaks of Moorea, while the valley behind the
+house runs up to a background of fine hills, which all to-day have
+been bathed in soft sunlight—that clear shining that comes after
+rain.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On one side of the little lawn stands a noble old banyan-tree,
+from the very heart of which grows a tall cocoa-palm,—a curious
+tree-marriage, greatly admired by the people; but in an evil hour
+an idiotic surveyor ascended this tree to take observations, and
+fastened a wire to the primary fronds, thereby of course cutting
+them, and so killing the palm, which now remains a poor dead
+monument of ignorant stupidity. The banyan suffers from another
+cause. The Tahitians believe that a decoction of its brown
+filaments and rootlets is a certain remedy for some forms of illness.
+They are therefore continually appealing to Mr Green for permission
+to cut them; and thus the growth of the tree is considerably
+checked. However, it covers a sufficient space to form a famous
+playground for the children, of whom there are a cheery little
+flock, though here, as in most remote colonies, the absence of all
+the elder ones forms the chief drawback to the happiness of their
+parents. But education in all its aspects has to be sought elsewhere
+than in beautiful Tahiti, by those who do not wish their
+families to become altogether insular; and my host and hostess
+retain far too loving memories of their own early homes in Wiltshire
+and Devon to allow their children to grow up estranged from
+their English kinsfolk.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This, like the majority of houses here, is a wooden bungalow,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>one storey high, with verandah, on to which all rooms alike open—by
+far the coolest and most suitable form of building for the
+tropics. But there are a number of two and three-storeyed houses
+in the town, inhabited by French officials and foreign merchants—notably
+the French governor’s house, and the unfinished “palace,”
+which has been in slow progress for many years.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the former, Admiral Serre now holds the reins. Stern
+though he be in public matters, he is wonderfully kind and
+pleasant socially, and seems to guide his iron hand with much
+wisdom in carrying out the course of action he has marked out
+for himself. As you know, he had scarcely determined on taking
+the government into his own hands when Queen Pomare died
+quite suddenly, to the exceeding grief of her people. Great was
+their anxiety as to what course the French would now adopt,—the
+royal family being so much at sixes and sevens that there was very
+good reason to fear that even the semblance of the ancient rule
+would henceforth be dispensed with.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Instead of this, the admiral devoted his whole energies to bringing
+together its various branches—healing their breaches, inculcating
+sobriety (with marvellous success so far), and generally
+getting them into a satisfactory condition. Queen Pomare’s two
+eldest sons, Ariiaue and Tamatoa, have been very naughty boys,
+in most respects. The former has married a very handsome girl,
+aged seventeen—Marau Salmon; but hitherto the marriage has
+not proved happy. Tamatoa was for a while King of Raiatea;
+but was apt to carry on such dangerous games when he was drunk,
+that his subjects drove him out of the island. He is, however,
+very clever and amusing, and is blessed with an adoring wife—a
+very charming and excellent woman, as good as she is bonnie;
+Moë is her pretty name. Queen Pomare’s third son, Joinville,
+died leaving a son. The fourth, Tevii Tapunui, is a very good
+fellow, but sadly lame.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Well, by dint of coaxing and reasoning, and by turns assuming
+the part of father and “governor,” the admiral first of all persuaded
+Ariiaue and Marau to make up the peace, and then proclaimed
+them King and Queen as Pomare V. and Marau Pomare—a ceremony
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>of which I have just read full particulars in the ‘Messager
+de Tahiti,’ which, under the heading, “Le prince royal Ariiaue est
+salué roi des Iles de la Société et dépendances,” gives a detailed
+account of the meeting of the Legislative Assembly of Tahiti,
+convened by “<span lang="fr">M. le Contre-Amiral Serre Commandant-en-chef,
+Commandant provisoire des Etablissements français de
+l’Océanie, pour reconnaître et acclamer le nouveau souverain de
+Tahiti</span>.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Legislative Assembly received with acclamation the decisions
+of the omnipotent admiral, who not only proclaimed Ariiaue
+king, but has further settled the succession for two generations to
+come. Queen Marau being half English, any child to which she
+may give birth is excluded from the throne in favour of the little
+Princess Teriivaetua, daughter of the king’s brother Tamatoa, and
+the charming Moë, ex-King and Queen of Raiatea—thus securing
+the pure Tahitian blood-royal. Failing issue of the little Princess
+Vaetua, the succession is to pass to her cousin, Prince Terriihinoiatua,
+commonly called Hinoi—a very handsome boy, son of the
+third royal brother, now deceased, who was known as the Prince
+de Joinville.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These decisions are said to have given great satisfaction to the
+Tahitians, who, with very good reason, had feared that, on the
+death of the old queen, the French would take the nominal power
+as well as the real, which they have so long held.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Pomare’s proud independent spirit must have chafed sorely
+under their tutelage; but she contrived to endure it for thirty-five
+years. She was just sixty-five when she died, having been born
+on the 28th February 1813.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>She was the only daughter of King Pomare II., who was the
+very first friend of the missionaries when they attempted to get a
+footing in these isles, and proved their stanch supporter to the end
+of his days.<a id='r37'></a><a href='#f37' class='c017'><sup>[37]</sup></a> His daughter’s name was Aimata. In the year
+1822 she married the young chief of Tahaa, who had received the
+name of Pomare as a mark of special favour from the old king.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>Thus Aimata became known as Pomare-Vahine;<a id='r38'></a><a href='#f38' class='c017'><sup>[38]</sup></a> the correct designation
+for a married woman being thus to append the term for
+wife to the name of the husband. In January 1827 she succeeded
+her brother, Pomare III., and reigned supreme till 1843, when the
+French assumed the Protectorate.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Young Queen Marau Pomare is one of a large family of very
+handsome half-whites—children of a high chiefess of Tahiti, who
+married a much respected English Jew, Mr Salmon. She has
+three stalwart sons and five most comely daughters, whose rich
+olive complexion, black silken tresses, mellifluous voices, and foreign
+intonation in speaking English, are all suggestive of Italy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The eldest daughter, who owns the formidable title of Tetuanuireiaiteruiatea—though,
+happily, known to her personal friends
+by the more euphonious name of Titaua—is herself a very high
+chiefess both of Tahiti and Moorea, on each of which she owns
+several large estates. At the early age of fourteen she married a
+wealthy Scotch merchant—Mr Brander—who died a few months
+ago, leaving to his young widow a heavy weight of care, in that
+her two eldest daughters have married Germans, whose mercantile
+interests are diametrically opposed to those of the house of Brander;
+and who, having vainly striven to wrest the business from her,
+are now pressing for immediate division of property—a process
+which necessitates a most exasperating amount of legal discussion,
+in which questions of English law, native law, and, above all, the
+Code Napoléon, which is the law of the Protectorate, crop up by
+turns.<a id='r39'></a><a href='#f39' class='c017'><sup>[39]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Moetia, the second daughter of Mrs Salmon, married the
+American Consul, Mr Attwater. Marau, as you already know,
+married her royal kinsman; while Lois (commonly called Prie,
+which is a contraction of Beretanie—a name adopted out of compliment
+to Britain) and Manihinihi, the two youngest sisters (who
+both fully sustain the beauty of their race), live with their mother—a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>very fine old lady, whose long native name I cannot tell you,
+but her ordinary signature is Ariitaimai. She was a cousin of the
+late queen, and is said greatly to resemble her.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Her three sons are Taati, Naarii, and Ariipaea—all tall and
+powerfully-built men.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The system of adopting children, which prevails here, is very
+confusing and very peculiar. Every family seems to have at least
+one belonging to some other family. A child is generally bespoken
+before it is born, and as soon as it is weaned it may be claimed by
+its adoptive parents, who give it a new name, by which it is thenceforth
+known, and who become responsible for it in every respect—for
+its feeding and its education. The child is at perfect liberty
+to pass unquestioned from one home to another; so if its second
+father or mother chance to annoy it, it goes and takes up its abode
+with its real parents till it feels inclined to return to the others.
+When these die, it inherits their property on equal terms with
+their real children. You can imagine that where relationships are
+very intricate to begin with, these additional blendings of families
+create a most bewildering interweaving.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then all the intermarriages of the principal families add to the
+confusion. Every one on Tahiti, Eimeo, Bora-Bora, and the
+Society Isles generally, seems to be related to every one else, at
+least among the high chiefs. In no corner of the earth is there
+a greater respect for good ancestry—nowhere is “a lang pedigree”
+more prized. The most singular point, however, is, that
+whereas in a proposed marriage between two persons, both having
+Tahitian blood (whether pure or partial does not matter), the
+greatest anxiety is manifested to prove that blood sufficiently blue,
+and any suggestion on the part of a high chief of wishing to wed
+a maiden of low degree calls forth a storm of indignation from all
+his relations; yet if a Tahitian woman of the highest class chooses
+to marry a European of very dubious rank by birth, not a voice is
+raised in opposition. I believe the solution of this curious point
+lies in the fact that here, as in Fiji, a child takes rank from his
+mother, so that he is in many instances a much more important
+person than his father. It is the same peculiarity which I pointed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>out to you, when writing from Fiji, respecting the customs of its
+chiefs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have just heard that a very leaky ship is to sail for Sydney
+to-morrow, and a better one starts for New Zealand next week; so
+in order to lose no chance of a letter reaching you, I shall despatch
+this <i>viâ</i> Sydney, and send you another <i>viâ</i> New Zealand. Meanwhile,
+good-bye.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XI.<br> <span class='c009'>PAPEETE—CATHOLIC MISSION—PROTESTANT MISSION—A CHRISTENING PARTY—LA MAISON BRANDÈRE—TALES OF THE PAST—EVENINGS IN TAHITI—LA MUSIQUE—PLANS—SUNDAY.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Care of the</i> <span class='sc'>Rev. James Green</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Paofai, Papeete, Tahiti</span>, <i>Saturday, 13th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dearest Nell</span>,—It is high time I sent you a cheerier letter than
+the last, which was written just after our dreary arrival in a dismal
+storm, and further overshadowed by the distressing manner in
+which our happy party was so summarily dispersed. With the
+exception of that one sad cloud, no drawback of any sort has arisen.
+The cordial kindness of every creature here, the easy luxury of
+very simple social life, a heavenly climate, and the dream-like loveliness
+of the isles, all combine to make up as charming a whole as
+can possibly be conceived. It is the sort of place in which one is
+made to feel at home at once: from the moment I landed every
+one seems to have tried what he or she could do for the enjoyment
+of the stranger. It is a region of true hospitality.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Certainly this is a very pretty little town. Its simple village
+streets are all laid out as <i>boulevards</i>, and form pleasant shady
+avenues, the commonest tree being the pretty yellow hybiscus with
+the claret-coloured heart, so common in Fiji, where it is called
+<i>surya</i>. Here its name is <i>boorau</i>. The names of the streets recall
+Parisian memories. The shadiest and widest street is the Chinese
+quarter, and its poor little wooden houses are Chinese stores and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>tea-shops. It rejoices in the name of Rue de Pologne, while the
+principal real street is the Rue de Rivoli, where are merchants’
+stores, <i>cafés</i>, grog-shops, and even hotels of some sort. Of course
+the pleasantest locations are those which face the harbour and
+catch the sweet sea-breeze; and the largest stores for provisions
+and dry goods are in the Rue de Commerce, each possessing its
+own wharf. I fear the word wharf may suggest the dirty prosaic
+wharves of England, an idea which you must banish at once; for
+business in its dingy aspect is not obtrusive, and the harbour-wall
+is but a stone coping for soft green turf, where girls with light
+rods sit fishing, and market-boats land their cargo of gay fruit and
+fish, while the motley throng pass and repass—Tahitians, French
+sailors and soldiers, Chinamen, black-robed French priests, and all
+the nondescript nationalities from the ships.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There is a considerable foreign population, including, of course,
+a large staff of French officials of all sorts—civil, naval, and military—and
+their presence seems a <i>raison d’être</i> for a strong corps of
+<i>gens d’armes</i>, who otherwise would certainly seem an incongruous
+element in the South Seas.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>By a recent census I learn that the native population of Tahiti
+is somewhere about 8000; that of Moorea, 1500. That there are
+in the group 830 French, 144 citizens of the United States, 230
+British subjects, and about 700 Chinese.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French have both a Protestant and Roman Catholic Mission.
+The former was made necessary by the fact that, on the
+establishment of the Protectorate in 1843, the English missionaries
+were subjected to such very oppressive regulations as greatly impeded
+their ministrations among the people, all of whom were at
+that time Christians, and, moreover, still in the fervour of first
+love—a love which, it is to be feared, has now in a great measure
+faded to the light of common day, as might be expected from the
+large influx of infidel, or at best, wholly indifferent, foreigners.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Church of Rome having resolved to proselytise this already
+occupied field, sent here a bishop and many priests, with a supplementary
+staff of “Frères et Sœurs de Charité.” I think the Sisters
+are of the order St Joseph de....   The foreigners connected
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>with the Catholic mission number in all about forty persons.
+They have had large aid and encouragement from the French
+Government, who compelled the chiefs of Tahiti and Moorea to
+build a church for their use in each district. Nevertheless, out
+of the 8000 inhabitants, 300 nominal adherents is the maximum
+which the Catholics themselves have ever claimed, but fifty is said
+to be nearer the mark.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French Protestant Mission, however, found it desirable to
+send French subjects to the support of the London Mission, of
+which Mr Green is now the only representative. His coadjutors
+are M. Viennot, M. Vernier, and M. Brun—all married men and
+<i>pères de famille</i>. The latter is <i>pasteur</i> of Moorea. M. Viennot
+has a large Protestant school both for boys and girls of pure French
+and pure Tahitian blood, and of all shades of mixed race. We
+went to see his charming house, which is the most romantic nest,
+for a school, that you can well imagine, with wide verandahs and a
+large pleasant garden. Several of the daughters of the early English
+missionaries assist in teaching; and everything about the
+establishment seems bright and healthy in tone.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The third French <i>pasteur</i>, M. Vernier, was a student friend of
+Lord Lorne’s at Geneva (under Merle d’Aubigné), and returned
+with him to Inveraray for three months, ere resuming his own
+studies for a while in Edinburgh. Consequently he retains most
+loving recollections of everything linked with those very happy
+days; and it struck me pleasantly, in this far-away isle, to find in
+his little drawing-room many familiar photographs of Inveraray faces
+and places. Now his pretty wife is mother of half-a-dozen typical
+French little ones, the youngest of whom was the hero of a very
+pleasant dinner-party, given by his parents the night before last, in
+honour of his baptism. There were about a dozen persons present,
+including all the members of the Protestant Mission, Captain
+Guignon of the Bossuet (a most friendly trading vessel belonging
+to the firm of Messrs Tandonnet of Bordeaux), and myself. All
+the time of dinner, the <i>petit nouveau-baptisé</i> was laid on the floor,
+where he rolled about laughing and crowing with delight, while
+the other children played quietly beside him. It was a scene of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>graceful home life, and illustrates the easy unconventional pleasures
+of social existence in this sweet isle.<a id='r40'></a><a href='#f40' class='c017'><sup>[40]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It certainly is very strange how one invariably finds home links
+in all corners of the earth. If there was one place more unlikely
+than another to do so, I should have thought it was Tahiti. But,
+as usual, I find myself quite <i>en pays de connaissance</i>. The day
+after I landed, Mrs Miller drove me in her nice pony-phaeton to
+call on Mrs Brander. I naturally expected that our conversation
+would be on purely insular subjects. Imagine my astonishment
+when, after the first greetings, this beautiful Anglo-Tahitian turned
+the conversation to Scotland—Morayshire, Speyside, Elgin, and
+many friends there—and spoke of them all from intimate personal
+acquaintance!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then, for the first time, it flashed across me that the name which
+had become so familiar to my ear as that of <i>la Maison Brandère</i>,
+was simply that of a county neighbour in Scotland; and that Mr
+Brander of Tahiti was none other than a half-brother of Lady
+Dunbar Brander,<a id='r41'></a><a href='#f41' class='c017'><sup>[41]</sup></a> who in his early youth left Elgin and went forth
+to carve his fortune in foreign lands. You know how little interest
+people in Britain take in watching the career of such lads,
+unless they chance to come home to spend their gold. Mr Brander
+did not come home. He found in the South Seas a field for his
+vast energies—embarked in trade, added ship to ship till he owned
+a considerable fleet, and so his connection spread from group to
+group; and he bought lands and built stores on all manner of
+remote isles, and in course of time amassed a gigantic fortune.
+His marriage with Titaua Salmon must have tended greatly to
+secure his position in these isles; and so his business went on ever
+increasing, till at length mind and body broke down under the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>constant strain, and he died, leaving the whole care of his immense
+business to his young widow, who is only thirty-four now, the
+eldest of her nine children having been born when she was fifteen!
+She is the mother of as pretty a covey as you could wish to see,
+beginning with two lovely grown-up married daughters and one or
+two grandchildren, and ending with two darling little girls, one of
+whom bears the charming name of Paloma, the dove.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mr Brander most wisely resolved that his wife’s brothers and
+his own sons should have the advantage of a first-rate education in
+Britain. Several of the boys are still at school at St Andrews,
+whence Alexander, the eldest, recently came out here; but he must
+shortly return to England, to look after property belonging to his
+father.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In all these far countries people talk of a run to England and
+back as if it was the veriest trifle!—merely a run of fifty or sixty
+days, <i>viâ</i> San Francisco, and across the United States; or, if
+economy has to be considered, a voyage of 140 days in a sailing-ship
+round Cape Horn!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This afternoon Mme. Fayzeau took me for an exquisite drive
+into the country. We drove along the shore on a road of fine
+green turf, skirting the lovely calm lagoon, and passing by an endless
+succession of small wooden houses, each almost hidden in
+bowers of blossom and shady fruit trees, with pleasant lawns,
+where merry children played, while their elders sat or lay on mats
+sewing, or twining wreaths, or rolling cigarettes—all suggesting
+lives of easy-going happiness without undue care; and the air was
+made musical by rippling laughter and mellifluous voices.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I scarcely know why it is that Tahitian sounds so much more
+attractive than the sterner Tongan tongue. Individual words are
+actually less liquid, because of the frequent use of the aspirate. I
+am told, as rather a curious fact, that whereas the Samoans and
+Tongans are so very profuse in their expression of the word
+“thanks,” the Tahitians, like the New Zealanders, have no equivalent
+for it.</p>
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/p1682_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>LE DIADÈME.  AVENUE DE FAUTAWA.<br>  TAHITI.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>For love of his master, we went to see Commandant Aube’s poor
+sick dog Fox, and learnt that it died very soon after his departure.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>Then we drove through a most beautiful wide avenue of dark-green
+trees, something like the Caroba, or locust-trees of Malta,
+completely overshadowing the broad green drive. And now we
+were facing the mountains in the centre of the isle, and looked up
+the lovely valley of Fautawa, at the head of which towers a magnificent
+hill, so symmetrically indented as to resemble a gigantic
+crown. Hence its common name, Le Diadème, though to the
+natives it is still Maiauo.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Returning towards Papeete, we met many carriages and equestrians;
+for here there is no lack of either. Most of the gentlemen
+were making their way to a river, which is a favourite bathing-place;
+and I need not tell you that a river-bath is one of the chief
+delights of a day in the tropics.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander had invited us all to dine at The Red House, which
+is her town home—a large three-storeyed red-brick house. There,
+amongst other friends, we met a very delightful old lady, Mrs
+Simpson—a true “mother in Israel.” Widow of one of the early
+missionaries, she shared in all his labours, and in the joy of beholding
+the dawn of Christianity, when its first rays dispelled the
+dark night of heathenism. Many a wondrous change have those
+clear observant eyes witnessed in her half-century of working life
+in these fair isles, and many a tale of thrilling interest has she to
+tell of scenes enacted within her own recollection.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course, with the advance of civilisation, many of the picturesque
+elements of earlier days have passed away. The natives no
+longer assemble on shore to practise their writing lessons on the
+smooth sea-beach; neither do they carry sand into the schools,
+that, by spreading it on a closely-woven mat or rude table, it may
+serve as a simple slate on which to work out the puzzles of arithmetic.
+The advanced scholars no longer seek for smooth stones
+on the mountains, to be polished with sea-sand till fine writing
+can be traced on them with the spines of the echini.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nor are the large leaves of the plantain used as letter-paper on
+which to send messages, written with a blunt stick, which bruised
+the delicate leaf without cutting it, and so produced a tracing of
+brown writing on a glossy green surface. These letters were rolled
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>up like a sheet of parchment and tied with a strip of bark. A
+plantain-leaf being about fifteen inches wide, and perhaps six feet
+in length, would allow of a very long message being written on
+one scroll, and answered very well, provided the letter had not far
+to travel; but of course the leaf would shrivel and split within a
+few days. Now letters are written on common note-paper, and
+bear the postage-stamps of the French Republic.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>No longer are children summoned to school, and congregations
+to worship, by the king’s messenger, lightly draped, but gaily
+wreathed, passing swiftly round the village, blowing loud blasts on
+his great trumpet-shell, and pausing at intervals to invite the presence
+of the people. Now his place is filled by the very commonplace
+bell of civilised life.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the matter of dress, too,—though we may be thankful that
+Prince Alfred’s strong commendation of the graceful <i>sacque</i> has
+caused it to triumph over all varieties of changeful and unbecoming
+fashion, which for a while found favour here, and which ere
+now have covered these comely heads with English bonnets and
+close-fitting white caps (!)—the artistic eye would certainly prefer
+the dress of olden days: that of the women consisting of soft
+drapery of beautiful cream-coloured native cloth, wound round the
+body, passed under one arm and knotted on the other shoulder,
+revealing the shapely neck and arm, while gay garlands wreathed
+their hair; and for ear-rings, some wore a fragrant blossom
+passed through one ear, and, in the other, two or three large pearls
+fastened together with finely braided human hair.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The men, so many of whom have now adopted coat and trousers,
+then wore either a very finely plaited, fringed mat, or a <i>pareo</i>—<i>i.e.</i>,
+kilt of native cloth, made either from the bark of the paper-mulberry
+or that of the bread-fruit, or else from the filaments of the
+banyan-tree. Of these the former was the whitest, and preferred
+for women; the latter was very thin and brown. The cloth made
+from the bark of the bread-fruit was very strong, and was dyed
+according to taste—either of a rich chocolate, a brilliant yellow, or
+red. The two last were the favourite colours, and were obtained
+from the sap and berries of different trees. Sometimes the cloth
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>was reversible—being black on one side and red on the other, and
+varnished with vegetable gum to enrich the colour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some wore this handsome material as a cloak—falling from the
+shoulders in flowing drapery, very becoming to a stately chief.
+Others wore it as a <i>tiputa</i> or tippet, which resembled the poncho
+of South America—being simply a long piece of cloth, with a hole
+cut in the centre, through which to pass the head, the garment
+falling over the back and chest and reaching to the knees. Sometimes
+this <i>tiputa</i> was beautifully ornamented; and often it was
+made of curiously knotted fibre—generally that of the hybiscus,
+from which fine fishing-nets were also made. Those who could
+afford such luxury wore head-dresses made of the long tail-feathers
+of the graceful tropic bird; and the poorest wore gay flowers.
+But these were discarded in favour of regular English hats, and
+the scarlet feathers were used as trimming for shabby black coats.
+Proud was the man who became possessed of a pair of trousers, to
+be displayed alternately on legs or arms! In short, the spirit of
+innovation was attended with the usual hideous incongruities.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Instead of the big European boats of the present day, with
+nothing distinctive except the form of their quaint triangular sail,
+there were formerly fleets of canoes of every size up to 100 feet in
+length, with grotesque carving on the raised stern and prow, and
+flags and streamers of native cloth. They carried large sails of
+yellow matting, made from the long leaves of the screw-pine,<a id='r42'></a><a href='#f42' class='c017'><sup>[42]</sup></a>
+which was much lighter than the canvas of civilisation, but also
+much less durable. Here again the picturesque element has
+suffered. In those days there were war canoes and chiefs’ canoes,
+single canoes, and double canoes—like Siamese twins; and in
+every fleet there was always a sacred canoe, that the presence of
+the tribal god might not be lacking.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The gods of Tahiti seem to have been simple enough: some
+were in the form of a large bird, others were merely a hollow
+cylinder ornamented with bright feathers. The blue shark was
+deified, and had temples erected in his honour, and a special priesthood;
+he was chiefly worshipped by fishermen, though few whose
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>path lay over the great waters would fail to propitiate so powerful
+and cruel a foe. Terrible are the stories of canoes which have
+been disabled and water-logged, and of the hungry sharks that
+have gathered round in shoals, and picked off the crew one by one,
+till the canoe, thus lightened, could float again; and perhaps one
+survivor has escaped to tell of his comrades’ fate.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When Pomare II. determined to become a Christian, his first
+decided act was to show the people with what contempt he now
+regarded the gods of his ancestors, to whom the turtle had ever
+been held sacred. It was invariably cooked with sacred fire
+within the precincts of the temple, and a portion was always
+offered to the idol. A turtle having been presented to the king,
+his followers were about to carry it to the <i>marae</i>, when he called
+them back, and bade them prepare an oven and bake it like
+ordinary food, without regard to the idol. Great was the consternation
+of the attendants, who tremblingly obeyed, and watched
+the king himself cut up the turtle and begin to eat. He vainly
+endeavoured to induce those who were with him to share this
+impious feast: they looked for some immediate manifestation of
+divine anger, and expected to see the king stricken before their
+eyes. Great was their wonder when no harm befell him, either
+on that day or on the morrow; and thus the first step was taken
+towards the overthrow of the old superstition.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was a simple but effectual test, and one which required considerable
+courage on the part of him who first dared to try it.
+Pomare, on this occasion, did for the people of Tahiti what Queen
+Kapiolani did for those of Hawaii, when, descending to the brink
+of the awesome crater, she defied the goddess Pélé by eating the
+blue berries held sacred to her, and which none dared to taste
+without first throwing a handful as an offering to Pélé.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In like manner did Pomare-Vahine, daughter of the King of
+Raiatea, teach the same lesson to the chiefs of Eimeo, who had
+brought her a great <i>faamuraa</i>, or feeding—<i>i.e.</i>, a gift of roasted
+pigs, fowls, fish, fruit, and vegetables. According to custom, the
+priests were present to crave the blessing of the gods on the whole
+feast, by first selecting the portions to be offered on the altars.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>But ere the heathen priests could make their choice, the Christian
+chiefess bade her head man consecrate the whole by thanksgiving
+to the Almighty. The crowd of bystanders looked on in wonder,
+and the priests retired, not venturing to claim for idol altars the
+food which, they felt, had thus been offered to the Most High.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Many such tales might I now hear and preserve for your benefit,
+could I but find time to listen with an undivided mind.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But there is so much that is new to hear and to see, that I
+hardly feel able to disentangle the threads of so many subjects,
+which, apparently, are all interwoven one with another. Doubtless,
+by degrees, they will arrange themselves in a more orderly
+fashion.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the evening we all walked home together, by a pleasant path
+along the grassy shore, passing through a dark thicket of large
+hybiscus trees, then beneath tall cocoa-palms, whose every frond
+lay clearly shadowed by the brilliant light of only a crescent moon.
+No full moon in England could shine with so soft a radiance.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The loveliness of the evenings here is indescribable; and well
+do all the inhabitants know how to enjoy their beauty. Every
+one saunters forth after dinner,—the general rendezvous being a
+grassy lawn under the great trees near Government House, where
+the admiral’s excellent band plays divinely, to the great delight of
+the Tahitians, who are themselves most musical, and who assemble
+in crowds, listening in rapt delight to the operatic airs, and then,
+by irresistible impulse, dancing joyously on the turf, as valse and
+galop succeed one another.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But nothing could be more orderly and respectable than this
+mirthful crowd, which strikes me the more forcibly from the fact
+that these are not the characteristics generally ascribed to Papeete,
+but are in great measure due to the wholesome influence of Admiral
+Serre and his officers, and to the excellent discipline of the ships
+now in harbour. Of course when a rowdy ship comes in, it is
+more difficult to preserve order; and as most accounts are written
+by travellers who chance on these unlucky times (and perhaps help
+to cause them), the place has got a worse name than it ever deserved.
+So say the old inhabitants. Its present condition of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>extremely orderly good behaviour is, however, undoubtedly an
+exceptional result of the admiral’s iron rule and stringent measures
+for the general weal. Immediately on his arrival, he gave orders
+that every damsel whose morals were recognised as lax, should be
+at once deported from the gay capital. So, without further ado,
+all such were shipped off to the seclusion of their various country
+districts, or else to more rigid seclusion, in charge of the police,—only
+coming forth to sweep the roads, which, consequently, are in
+a state of exquisite cleanliness and neatness.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is not to be supposed that the present condition of preternatural
+goodness will very long survive the departure of the
+admiral, as many of the governors of the Protectorate seem rather
+to encourage what the more staid residents deem unseemly frolic.
+Many of these governors are not Frenchmen,—merely Creoles,
+whom the Tahitians dislike exceedingly, and contemptuously describe
+as <i>Paumuto-Frane</i> (Paumuto-men being Queen Pomare’s
+pig-feeders, and <i>Frane</i> being the equivalent of French). Many
+gross errors and maladministrations have crept in during their
+rule; and the admiral is now devoting his whole great energies
+to rectifying all manner of abuses, greatly to the satisfaction of
+the Tahitians, with whom he is apparently immensely popular.
+Moreover, he seems determined to deal even-handed justice between
+the Protestant and Catholic teachers, which the latter by
+no means appreciate, having so long been greatly favoured by the
+Creole authorities.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Socially, in his double capacity of admiral and governor, he does
+all in his power to make things pleasant for every one. For my
+own part, I am bound to say that, from the very first evening of
+our arrival, he has been unvaryingly courteous, and in every respect
+most thoughtful for me. We meet very often, as he and some of
+his suite invariably join Mrs Miller’s party every evening at the
+band, after which they walk back with us along the beautiful
+shore to the British consulate, where we generally have a second
+concert, and much pleasant chat of the most polyglot order—English,
+French, and Spanish, in about equal parts—with iced
+lemonade and liqueurs to help the flow of words!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>The only drawback to my enjoyment of all this is the feeling
+that my late most kind <i>camarades</i> are so thoroughly out of it all.
+Like Rachel bemoaning her little ones, they refuse to be comforted,
+and nothing will induce any of them to come ashore to any place
+where they might by any accident meet the admiral. Of course
+this is rather uncomfortable for me; for though they all declare
+themselves most anxious that I should be lionised in the best possible
+manner (<i>i.e.</i>, officially), I fear it must seem to them as if I
+had gone over to the enemy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Still, there is no alternative; and the kindness which is even
+now arranging my future plans, is such that I can but accept it
+gratefully.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Having proclaimed Ariiaue and Marau, King and Queen of the
+Isles, the admiral is now making arrangements to escort them on
+a grand ceremonial round of all the districts on each of the principal
+isles, that they may personally receive the homage of their
+people. It will be a very interesting occasion, calling forth whatever
+still remains of old native customs. To my great delight, the
+admiral has asked me to join this expedition. At first I treated
+the suggestion as a mere civil <i>façon de parler</i>, no other lady having
+been invited; little Vaetua (Moë’s daughter, the future queen)
+being Marau’s only companion. However, on the following day
+an A.D.C. brought me an invitation in due form, and the Millers
+are delighted, and say it will be the nicest thing possible for me.
+So of course, now, I have definitely accepted, and am looking
+forward to the ploy with the greatest possible interest. There
+are twenty districts in Tahiti, and the intention is to visit two
+a day, which will make our picnic expedition a ten days’ pleasure;
+after which we return here to make a fresh start for the beautiful
+isle of Moorea.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>At eight o’clock Madame Fayzeau took me with her to the
+Roman Catholic cathedral for the military Mass, at which all high
+officials are expected to be present. Soldiers with fixed bayonets
+stand on either side of the altar, and others down the aisle, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>present arms, kneel, stand up, &#38;c., obedient to a loud word of command,
+which, indeed, is the only word spoken aloud till the final
+benediction and short chant. The organ plays the whole time, and
+the congregation attend to their private devotions, or do not, as the
+case may be. Apparently the fact of being present is sufficient.
+Very few Tahitians attend the eight o’clock Mass. The general
+congregation assemble at nine, when the service is audible, and a
+sermon is preached, partly in Tahitian, partly in French.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After church we went to see the Sisters, some of whom are
+engaged in nursing at the hospital, while the others teach in their
+own school. Returning to the British consulate, we found a pleasant
+naval breakfast-party; after which we enjoyed a calm peaceful
+afternoon here, while Mr Green was engaged with some of his
+teachers and classes. He has the charge of a very large native
+church here, where he holds forenoon service, but frequently has
+occasion to visit churches in other parts of the isle; and one of the
+many irritating French regulations forbids his preaching in any
+church but his own without a special permit, which has to be
+applied for, and granted afresh, every week, and is often delayed
+till the very last moment, so that he has to wait with his horse
+ready harnessed, and then probably drive much faster than he
+wishes, to reach his destination in time.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As each member of the mission has his own native work to
+attend to, and as every one in the island understands Tahitian, the
+only foreign service is one held on alternate Sunday evenings by
+Mr Green and the French <i>pasteurs</i>. This evening it was in English,
+according to the Congregational form, and ended with the Holy
+Communion.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We had a lovely walk home, but remarked that the Parisian
+observance of Sunday as a <i>jour de fête</i> has superseded that very
+sacred reverence for the Lord’s Day, which is so striking a feature
+in most of the Christianised isles. To-night the crowd at the band
+was larger and noisier than usual, owing to the presence of many
+French sailors, some of whom were nearly as drunk as an average
+set of blue jackets, under similar circumstances, would probably
+have been.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>With some anxiety, I noted a wide halo round the moon, and
+devoutly trust it may not prove an evil symptom of the coming
+weather; for to-morrow morning we start on our grand expedition
+round the isle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now I must try to secure a good night’s rest, so shall close this
+letter, which may take its chance of being taken to <i>some</i> point by
+<i>some</i> vessel in the course of the next ten days.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Your Loving Sister.</span></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XII.<br> <span class='c009'>SHORT SKETCH OF A ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>The Rev. James Green</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>25th October</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dear Lady Gordon</span>,—I have just heard that a vessel is about
+to sail, and will carry mails, so, though I have not time to write at
+length, I must send a few lines by her. Though antagonisms are
+not perhaps so openly virulent here as in Samoa, there is nevertheless
+such jealousy among the traders that they often try to sneak
+out of harbour unknown to their neighbours, and so we have just
+lost the chance of sending letters <i>viâ</i> Auckland by a fine vessel
+belonging to Godeffroy; but no one knew she was going, till she
+actually sailed.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned last night from the grand tour of this isle on the
+occasion of King Pomare’s accession to the throne. Admiral Serre
+most kindly arranged that I should be of the party, and really I do
+not think I ever enjoyed an expedition so much in all my life. It
+was wonderful luck for me just to have come in for so exceptional
+a chance; for, of course, under no other circumstances could I have
+seen either the country or the people to such advantage. It was
+really like a bit of a fairy tale, and all fitted in so smoothly and
+naturally without the smallest trouble or care of any sort, so far as
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>I was concerned. In every respect it has been a most delightful
+trip,—good weather, good roads, and most agreeable company. I
+cannot tell you how often I longed to have you with us (remembering
+how you love driving, and that carriages are an unknown
+luxury in Fiji)!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The admiral had a capital carriage and excellent horses, and such
+a jovial great half-caste driver. And the broad grass drives along
+the shore, generally skirting the sea or passing through the heavenly
+orange-groves, are so delicious, and you glide along so silently
+through ever-changing scenes of beauty. How you would have
+enjoyed it all!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Besides the royal party and a few native chiefs, there were about
+twenty French officers and the admiral’s excellent brass band, consisting
+of twenty sailors, who have been trained and are kept well
+up to the mark by M. D’Oncieue de la Battye, the admiral’s <i>chef
+d’étât-major</i>, who is an excellent musician, and a most agreeable
+companion—which was fortunate, as either he or M. Hardouin, the
+A.D.C., always occupied the third seat in the carriage. Everything
+on the whole expedition was admirably arranged; and although
+we were such a very large party, there was always good
+accommodation provided, and everything was done comfortably.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Each district possesses a very large <i>cheferie</i> or <i>fareo</i>,—<i>i.e.</i>, a very
+large native house built for public purposes—meetings, and the
+accommodation of strangers. Like all the native houses here,
+they consist chiefly of a heavy thatch roof, rounded at both
+ends, supported on a mere framework of posts, and leaving the
+sides all open, save at night, when they are screened in. They
+generally have good wooden floors, often smooth enough to dance
+upon.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The first of these at which we stopped was most beautifully
+decorated, and tables spread for 300 persons, the chief’s family supplying
+that for <i>les gros bonnets</i>—and each family in the district
+taking entire charge of one table. At other places we found the
+feast spread in temporary houses, but everywhere it was gracefully
+done.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our night quarters were also most comfortably arranged, and I
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>was especially charmed by the beds provided for us,—very large
+and soft, stuffed with the silky tree-cotton; abundant pillows; real
+mosquito-nets and light curtains, tied back with gay ribbons; and
+such pretty coverlets of patchwork, really triumphs of art needlework.
+Those most in favour have crimson patterns on a white
+ground, but the designs are highly artistic. It seems that a Tahitian
+housewife prides herself on her snowy linen and downy pillows—a
+very happy adaptation of foreign customs. Whenever it was possible
+so to arrange it, Marau and I shared the same room, which
+was a pleasant arrangement.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Each morning our procession of fifteen wheeled vehicles started
+at 7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, preceded by native outriders carrying the gay district
+flag, which made a pretty bit of colour as we passed through the
+green glades. A drive of seven or eight miles brought us to our
+halting-point, where we found masses of people assembled to sing
+<i>himènes</i> of welcome, all, however, dressed in black, relieved only
+by crowns and handkerchiefs of yellow, or else a wreath or hat of
+snowy white bamboo or arrowroot fibre, and in their hair soft
+plumes of snowy <i>reva-reva</i>,—a filmy ribbon extracted from the
+cocoa-palm leaf. All the women were supposed to have cut off their
+beautiful long black hair, as mourning for old Queen Pomare; but
+happily a good many had only shammed, so now there is no lack of
+glossy black tresses. Those, however, who affect deep mourning,
+still wear black straw-hats trimmed with crape, and look most
+lugubrious, their dark sallow complexions and raven hair giving
+them such a very sombre appearance.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All the women without exception have their dresses cut on the
+pattern of the old English <i>sacques</i> worn by our grandmothers—that
+is, a yoke on the shoulders, from which the skirt falls to the
+feet, and trails behind. The effect is very easy and graceful, and
+it is a matter of deep congratulation that the dress in fashion in
+Europe at the period when Tahiti adopted foreign garments, should
+have been one so suitable. It would be impossible to devise a
+cooler dress, as it only touches the neck, shoulders, and (very
+loosely) the arms. The one under-garment is low-necked, short-sleeved,
+and of such a length as to form a sweeping skirt, thus
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>combining chemise and petticoat. Shoes and stockings are of
+course superfluous.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Having halted and feasted at the morning district, we started
+again about two o’clock, drove seven or eight miles further, always
+through lovely country, and so reached our night quarters, where
+we were again received by assembled multitudes and congratulatory
+<i>himènes</i>. Then the band played, as it had done at our noonday
+halt, to the great delight of the people; and we strolled about,
+and bathed in some clear crystalline stream, reassembling for a
+great native feast, which, however, was served European fashion,
+as each district possesses its own crockery, glass, knives, forks,
+spoons, &#38;c. The admiral provided French wines and bread.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then followed more <i>himène</i> singing; while we sat listening,
+entranced, either in the great house, or on the beautiful sea-shore,
+in the perfect moonlight. <i>Himènes</i> are a new sensation in music,
+utterly indescribable—the strangest, wildest, most perplexing
+chants; very musical and varied, quite impossible to catch. They
+are a curious and fascinating sort of glee-chorus, in which every
+one seems to introduce any variations he fancies, but always in
+perfect tune, and producing a combination like most melodious
+cathedral chimes—rising and falling in rippling music, and a
+droning undertone sounding through it all. The whole air seems
+full of musical voices perfectly harmonised—now in unison, now
+heard singly; one moment lulled to softest tones, then swelling in
+clear ringing melody; voices now running together, now diverging.
+The singers compose their own words, which sometimes describe
+the most trivial details of passing events, sometimes are fragments
+of most sacred hymns—according to the impulse of the moment.
+Perhaps this last fact gives us a clue to the origin of the word
+<i>hymn-ene</i>; though I fancy that the words sung are often those of
+older and less seemly songs than the hymns taught by the early
+missionaries.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is an outline of what has been our daily life for the last
+ten days. All has gone off without a single drawback, and it has
+been a spell of thorough enjoyment: nothing could exceed the
+kindness of every one, whether French or Tahitian. I think that
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>of all the lovely isles I have visited, these certainly deserve the
+palm. Tahiti is a miniature of Ceylon, omitting all the great
+hideous coffee districts in the interior (districts made hideous by
+denudation—the glorious primeval forests having been ruthlessly
+sacrificed to make way for gold-producing crops).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The lovely hills and valleys of Tahiti and Moorea have only
+gained in beauty by the introduction of the fruit-bearing trees,
+which now form a most important feature in the general wealth of
+foliage—the dense thickets of orange-trees having all grown from
+those brought from Sydney by Mr Henry, one of the early missionaries.
+Strangely enough, the most healthy trees are those which
+have grown self-sown from the seed thrown about carelessly by the
+natives, when they retired to some quiet valley to brew their
+orange-rum in secret. These trees have thriven far better than
+those much cared for, and transplanted.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The splendid mango-trees, whose mass of dark foliage is now so
+prominent a feature on all sides, were introduced less than twenty
+years ago by the French, who have taken infinite trouble to procure
+all the very best sorts, and have succeeded to perfection.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the special charm of these isles lies in the multitude of
+their streams and rivulets. We calculated that in driving round
+Tahiti—a distance of 160 miles—we crossed 150 streams, all clear
+as crystal. Several of these are large rivers; and all have enchanting
+pools, most tempting to bathers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The general form of the main isle is that of a double gourd—a
+large circle divided by a rocky ridge from a small one, the centre
+being composed of a tumbled wilderness of mountains rising to
+a height of 7000 feet. Precipitous crags, pinnacles, and narrow
+ridges of black volcanic rock, which the natives themselves never
+care to scale, tower in grand forms at the head of each of the
+countless richly wooded valleys, to all of which we looked up from
+the sea-level. There was only one point where we rose to any
+height—namely, the rocky ridge which connects the peninsula
+with the main isle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I must not write more at present lest I should lose the mail.
+Next week, if all is well, the Seignelay is to take the royal party
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>across to beautiful Moorea, there to repeat the pleasures of the last
+fortnight on a smaller scale. And very soon after our return
+thence, Mrs Brander intends to despatch one of her large vessels
+to Honolulu to fetch cattle, and I purpose taking passage by her,
+hoping that I shall thus have time to see something of the Sandwich
+Isles, and there find letters from you, with such definite plans
+as shall guide me whether to meet you in Australia or New Zealand
+about Christmas. You will scarcely venture to keep the
+children in Fiji any later in the hot season.—With all loving
+greetings, yours ever,</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>C. F. G. C.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIII.<br> <span class='c009'>THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI—LIFE DAY BY DAY—HIMÈNES—A BEAUTIFUL SHORE—MANUFACTURE OF ARROWROOT FLOWERS—A DESERTED COTTON PLANTATION—TAHITIAN DANCING—THE AREOIS—VANILLA PLANTATIONS—FORT OF TARAVAO.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Paea, Tahiti</span>, <i>Monday, Oct. 15, 1877</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dearest Nell</span>,—We have had a long and most interesting day,
+and I am pretty well tired out. Still I must begin a journal letter
+to-night, as we start again at daybreak, and I am sure you will wish
+for a detailed account of our trip.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning at 8 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> we started on the <i>grand tour de l’île</i>.
+All the luggage of the party had been sent on ahead in heavy
+<i>fourgons</i>, as had also the band of the Magicienne, consisting of
+twenty sailors, in a couple of <i><span lang="fr">char à bancs</span></i>. Tahitian outriders,
+carrying the flag of the district, preceded Ariiaue, now King
+Pomare V., who led our procession, in a high dogcart, accompanied
+by his brother Tamatoa, and his little nephew Hinoi, son
+of the late Prince Joinville. Then followed Admiral Serre, M.
+Hardouin, the A.D.C., and myself, in a comfortable open carriage,
+and capital horses. Queen Marau came next, with her lovely little
+sister Manihinihi, and Moë’s child, Terii-Mae-Vaetua, who is next
+in the succession. Sundry and divers vehicles followed, containing
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>about twenty French officers, Mr Barff as interpreter, and Joseph
+Miller.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The weather was perfect—not too hot; a brisk trade-wind
+brought the sea roaring and tumbling in heavy breakers on the
+coral-reef, about a mile from the shore, where our road skirted the
+calm lagoon, so blue and peaceful and still. We drove through
+districts which seemed like one vast orchard of mango, bread-fruit,
+banana, <i>faes</i>, large orange-trees, lemons, guavas, citrons, papawas,
+vanilla, coffee, sugar-cane, maize, and cocoa-palm,—together forming
+a succession of the very richest foliage it is possible to conceive.
+Sometimes we amused ourselves by counting such few trees as are
+not fruit-bearing. Here and there the broad grass roads are edged
+with avenues of tall plantains,—very handsome in a dead calm, but
+too delicate to endure the rough wooing of these riotous trade-winds,
+which tear the huge leaves to ribbons, so that the avenues
+are apt to have a <i>disjasket</i> look.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Even the commonest crops are attractive,—the Indian corn and
+the sugar, each growing to a height of eight or ten feet, with long
+leaves like gigantic grass, and pendent tassels of delicate pink silk.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We halted at various points, where deputations had assembled
+to welcome the king, and about eleven o’clock reached Punavia,—a
+lovely spot on the sea-shore, at the mouth of a beautiful valley,
+above which towers Le Diadème (that same crown-shaped mountain
+which I told you is so grand as seen from Fautawa valley).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course I had not failed to bring my large sketching-blocks;
+and, thanks to the kindness of Mr Green, I had been able to
+replace my mildewed paper by a store of French paper, sold by the
+Government offices at Papeete as unfit for use; but to me, after
+long experience of Fijian mildew, it proved an unspeakable prize.
+M. Fayzeau, himself a graceful artist, helped me quickly to select
+the very best spot for a sketch,—from near a ruined French fort
+on the shore. Two small forts, further up the valley recalled the
+days when Tahiti made her brave but unavailing struggle for independence.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Ere long we were summoned to breakfast,—a native feast in a
+native house, which was decorated in most original style, with large
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>patchwork quilts. These are the joy and pride of the Tahitian
+women, and so artistic in design as to be really ornamental.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To speak correctly, I should call this repast a <i>faamuraa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>,
+a feeding: our fish should have been wrapped in plantain-leaves,
+and broiled on the embers; the pigs baked on hot stones in earth
+ovens, where the peeled bread-fruit and bunches of <i>faes</i>, or mountain-plantain,
+should likewise have been cooked; and the only salt
+provided should have been a little sea-water in a cocoa-nut shell.
+But Tahiti has gone ahead so fast, that I cannot answer for how
+things are done nowadays. I know that, instead of vegetable
+plates—<i>i.e.</i>, layers of large round hybiscus-leaves—we ate off
+foreign plates, with knives and forks of best electro-plate, and
+drank our red wine from clearest crystal glasses, and snowy napkins
+were not forgotten.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There was a considerable consumption of raw fish, which is considered
+a very great delicacy, and one for which many foreigners
+acquire a strong liking. There is no accounting for tastes. King
+Ariiaue, who takes great care of me at meals, has been trying to
+teach me this enjoyment, and on my objecting, declares it is mere
+prejudice, as of course I eat oysters raw—we might almost say
+alive. To this I can answer nothing, well remembering the savage
+delight with which we have often knocked our own oysters off
+rocks and branches, and swallowed them on the instant! But
+then they are so small, and some of these fish are very large.
+Perhaps one’s instinctive objection is to their size. Those most
+in favour are of a most exquisite green colour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>During breakfast, and afterwards, the glee-singers of the district
+sang <i>himènes</i>, which are the national music—most strange and
+beautiful part-songs. Afterwards dancing was suggested; but
+only a few men volunteered to show us the <i>Upa-upa</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, the old
+national dance—which is merely an exceedingly ungraceful wriggle,
+involving violent exertion, till every muscle quivers, and the dancer
+retires panting, and in a condition of vulgar heat. It is the identical
+dance which we saw at the Arab wedding at Port Said, and
+in various other countries—always an unpleasant exhibition. Happily
+the band struck up some gay air, which delighted the people;
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>and it continued to play till four o’clock, when our procession again
+formed, and another lovely drive along the shore brought us to
+Paea.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is a charmingly situated hamlet of clean, comfortable houses,
+only divided from the white coral-sand by a belt of green turf and
+fine old iron-wood trees. Here our night quarters were assigned to
+us; and certainly we are in clover. I am now sitting in “my own
+room”—one of four good bed-rooms, opening off a large centre
+room,—all fresh and clean, and gay with bright quilts and snowy
+linen. The king and queen, and all the officers, and the band,
+have their quarters in different houses.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the pride of the district is its very large house for public
+entertainment,—a long building, rounded at both ends like the
+Tongan houses, with heavy thatch, and very light bamboo sides,
+quite transparent. Here dinner was laid, in European style, for
+300 guests,—an upper table at one end, where the chiefs of the
+district entertained the royal party. Other tables were ranged
+down each side of the building,—each family in the neighbourhood
+undertaking to provide for one, and there assemble their own
+friends. The whole great building is beautifully decorated in
+Tahitian style, with palm-leaves and tree-ferns, and festoons of
+deep fringe, made of hybiscus fibre, all dyed either yellow or
+white: there must be <i>miles</i> of this fringe on that house. Yellow
+is happily admitted in Court mourning; so the majority of the
+people have either a yellow neck-tie, or some yellow flowers in
+their hats—a symptom of mitigated affliction, to express the
+pleasure that now mingles in their grief for the good queen.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“Le Roi est mort,—Vive le Roi!”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But everywhere we find all the people clothed in long black
+robes, with black hats and cropped hair, instead of the customary
+bright colours, long glossy tresses, and gay wreaths. Here, even
+the district flag-staff is adorned with a deep fringe of black fibre.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We went to dinner in most orthodox fashion, the admiral conducting
+Marau, and Ariiaue taking me. The feast was warranted
+to be entirely <i><span lang="fr">à l’indigène</span></i>,—all native dishes; but its great charm
+consisted in the table decorations, which were most ingenious and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>effective. Apparently each table had a series of white marble
+centre-vases, which, on close inspection, proved to be graduated
+lumps of the thick fleshy banana-stalk. In these were arranged
+all manner of artificial flowers, made of coloured leaves, or of the
+glossy white arrowroot fibre, or bamboo fibre, which are used in
+making wreaths and hats; and from some there floated a silvery
+plume of the lightest silky film, like fairy ribbons. This is the
+snowy <i>reva-reva</i>, extracted from the interior of young cocoa-palm
+leaves—a difficult operation, requiring the neatest hand and long
+practice. As yet, I cannot produce more than a few inches unbroken.
+The worker keeps a split stick, stuck in the ground
+beside her, and into its cleft fastens one end of each ribbon as
+she peels it, otherwise the faintest breath of air would blow it
+away. It is the loveliest gossamer you can imagine.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the end of the feast Tamatoa gave the example of adorning
+his own hat and those of his neighbours with these lovely plumes,
+and all the pretty arrowroot and bamboo flowers. Then we
+adjourned to the grassy shore, and watched the clear full moon
+rise from the calm sea, while the glee-singers sang their soft
+beautiful choruses. A few men and one or two women began the
+same hideous dance with which they had favoured the company
+in the forenoon, but they met with small encouragement, and the
+singers carried the day—or rather the night.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I wish it were possible for me to describe Tahitian <i>himènes</i> so
+as to give you the faintest shadow of an idea of their fascination.
+But the thing is utterly impossible. Nothing you have ever heard
+in any other country bears the slightest resemblance to these wild
+exquisite glees, faultless in time and harmony, though apparently
+each singer introduces any variations that occur to him or her.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The musicians sit on the grass—or the mats, as the case may be,—in
+two divisions, arranged in rows so as to form two squares.
+A space is left between these where the “conductor,” should there
+chance to be one, walks up and down, directing the choruses. But
+very often there is no leader, and apparently all sing according to
+their own sweet will. One voice commences: it may be an old
+native tune, with genuine native words (the meaning of which we
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>had better not inquire), or it may be a Scriptural story versified,
+and sung to an air originally imported from Europe, but so completely
+Tahitianised that no mortal could recognise it, which is all
+in its favour; for the wild melodies of this isle are beyond measure
+fascinating.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After one clause of solo, other voices strike in—here, there,
+everywhere—in harmonious chorus. It seems as if one section
+devoted themselves to pouring forth a rippling torrent of Ra, ra,
+ra-ra-ra! while others burst into a flood of La, la, la-la-la! Some
+confine their care to sound a deep booming bass in a long-continued
+drone, somewhat suggestive (to my appreciative Highland
+ear) of our own bagpipes. Here and there high falsetto notes
+strike in, varied from verse to verse, and then the choruses of La
+and Ra come bubbling in liquid melody; while the voices of the
+principal singers now join in unison, now diverge as widely as it is
+possible for them to do, but all combine to produce the quaintest,
+most melodious, rippling glee that ever was heard. Some <i>himènes</i>
+have an accompaniment of measured hand-clapping, by hundreds
+of those present. It is curious in its way, chiefly as a triumph
+of perfect time, but I do not think it attractive. The clear mellifluous
+voices need no addition; and as they ring out suddenly and
+joyously, in the cool evening, I can imagine no sound more inspiriting.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-night our party received a pleasant addition, the queen’s two
+sisters, Moetia and Prie, having driven over from Papeete, on their
+way to join their mother, Mrs Salmon, who, as high chiefess of the
+next district, is to receive her daughter to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All the time I have been writing to you, there have been occasional
+bursts of <i>himène</i> singing, and of the far less musical accompaniment
+of the <i>Upa-upa</i>; but now quiet reigns, so I may as well
+sleep while I can. Good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Mataiea, Papeooriri</span>, <i>Tuesday, 16th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning we were all astir at 5 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, and had early coffee on
+the cool verandah. All the luggage was started by 6 o’clock, and
+then I had a quiet hour’s sketching from beneath one of the great
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>iron-wood trees (<i>casuarina</i>). At 7 o’clock our procession started;
+every one cheery and good-tempered; on every side hearty greetings—“<i>Yarra
+na! Yarra na!</i>” and sounds of careless laughter,
+and merry voices. There is certainly a great charm in this pretty
+liquid language, and in the gentle affectionate manner of the people,
+who seem to be overflowing with genial kindliness.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As usual, our path lay through such bowers of endlessly varied
+foliage as to form one continuous panorama of delight. No
+painter’s brush could produce such infinite shades of green as are
+here multiplied,—from the delicate tender hues of the silky young
+banana-leaves, ranging through every description of dark-green
+and bright-green, blue-green and sunlit yellow, till the eye is fain
+to rest on the sombre hair-like foliage of the iron-wood trees, which
+grow on the very brink of the sea, their long tresses literally drooping
+to the water.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We passed through plantations of coffee, not close-clipped as
+in Ceylon, but growing tall and rank, and overshadowed by cocoa-palms, yet
+loaded with bright scarlet berries. The coffee shrubs
+are here made to do double duty, and serve as props for the vanilla,
+which is trained to creep all over them, its fragrant pods intermingling
+with the coffee cherries.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The broad road of soft green turf next led us through groves of
+luxuriant bread-fruit trees with large pale-green fruit, dark mango-trees
+and orange-trees alike laden with their half-ripe crop, and
+here and there we passed a fragrant rose-apple tree, the fruit of
+which tastes exactly like the scent of roses. But of all heavenly
+perfumes, commend me to the blossom of the Tahitian chestnut,
+a noble forest-tree, with rich dark foliage, standing out in strong
+relief from the cool grey-greens of the hybiscus, with the lemon-coloured
+blossoms, which clothes the base of the mountains.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Beyond that belt of cool shadow the great green hills tower in
+strange fantastic form, seamed by deep valleys, down which pour
+crystal streams, so numerous that the sparkling air seems to re-echo
+the musical voice of many waters. Every weird fantastic rock-pinnacle
+is draped by clinging vines, infinite in their variety, and
+all alike lovely; and the clear sunlight playing on the golden green
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>of the mountain-summits, tells that even there, the same wealth of
+all things beautiful abounds.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This was the panorama that rose on our left hand as we drove
+along the shore. On our right, like a silver shield, lay the calm
+glittering lagoon, reflecting, as in a mirror, the grand masses of
+white cloud, and bounded by the long line of breakers, flashing as
+they dashed on the barrier-reef. Beyond these lay outspread the
+vast Pacific, its deep purple flecked with white crests, telling how
+briskly the trade-winds blew outside. And far on the horizon,
+the rugged peaks of Moorea rose, clear and beautiful, robed in
+ethereal lilac. Far above our heads the light fronds of the cocoa-palm
+interlaced, forming a fairy canopy, through which we looked
+up to the clearest blue heaven. I think it must be a cold unthankful
+heart that could so look up, without some echo of the
+<i>Benedicite</i>—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“O ye mountains and hills, O ye seas and floods, O all ye green things upon the earth,</div>
+      <div class='line'>Bless ye the Lord! praise Him and magnify Him for ever.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Two hours’ drive brought us to Papara, where a very grand
+reception awaited the young king and queen. Mrs Salmon, the
+queen’s mother, had assembled all her vassals in most imposing
+array; and a double row of <i>himène</i> singers lined the road, singing
+choruses of congratulation, taken up alternately on the right hand
+and on the left. The effect was very pretty. Many relations of
+the family had also assembled to greet their royal kinsfolk.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Very quaint handsome <i>tiputas</i> were presented to the king and
+the admiral. These are ceremonial garments, reaching from the
+neck to the knee, made from the fibre of bread-fruit bark, and
+covered with flowers and twists of the glossy arrowroot fibre, each
+stitched on separately. To the queen, the admiral, and myself, were
+presented most lovely crowns of the same silvery arrowroot; while
+for the gentlemen were provided garlands and necklaces of fragrant
+white or yellow blossoms, and charming hats of white bamboo fibre,
+manufactured by the ladies and their attendants.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I may as well tell you how the lovely arrowroot fibre is obtained.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>It is the inner coating of the flower-stalk, which is a hollow stem
+like that of hemlock, and grows to a height of about four feet.
+These stalks are soaked in running water till the green outer skin
+begins to decay. Then the stalk is laid on a flat wooden board,
+and a woman slits it open from end to end with a sharp shell, with
+which she then proceeds to scrape off every particle of green, and
+there remains a lovely ribbon, like very glossy white satin, ribbed
+longitudinally: with a sharp thorn she divides this into very narrow
+strips. And this is the material most in use in the art-world
+of Tahiti, being woven by deft fingers into all manner of pretty
+ornaments for hair, dress, and fans. Bamboo is prepared in much
+the same manner, but is a harsher material to work, and much less
+ornamental.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The house at Papara, and the large breakfast-room, were most
+tastefully decorated with great tree-ferns and bright yellow banana-leaves,
+plaited to form a sort of fringe. Wild melodious <i>himènes</i>
+were sung all the time of the feast, and afterwards the band played
+operatic airs till 3 o’clock, when we once more started on our
+journey.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In this district much cultivation has impaired the beauty of wild
+nature. Large tracts of land have been laid out for scientific planting
+of cotton and coffee; and after all, the fields have been abandoned,
+the crops left to run wild, and are now rank straggling
+bushes struggling for life with the overmastering vines. In itself
+the cotton is a pretty shrub, its yellow blossom with claret-coloured
+heart closely resembling the lemon-coloured hybiscus, while its
+bursting pods offer their soft white fluff to all comers. But a
+softer, silkier cotton for stuffing pillows, is that obtained from the
+tall cotton-tree, with the scarlet blossom and long green pod.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We halted at the melancholy deserted plantation of Atiamano,
+which in very recent years was the home of the manager for the
+Tahiti Cotton and Coffee Plantation Company—a reckless speculator
+with the capital intrusted to him. Never was there a truer
+illustration of the proverb concerning cutting broad thongs from
+other men’s leather.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mr William Stewart, an ex-cavalry officer, arrived in Tahiti
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>about the year 1860, and obtained the sanction of the French
+governor for the purchase of a very large property, to which he
+gave the name of Terre Eugénie, and at once commenced every
+species of improvement. First-class roads, high cultivation, hotels
+which never paid, because of the princely hospitality freely offered
+to all comers in his own splendid country-house;—these, with his
+genial friendliness and good fellowship, naturally made him the
+most popular man in Tahiti, and one whose praises have been sung
+by all travellers. To work the estates he imported about 1000
+Chinamen, and 300 “foreign labour” from the Central Pacific and
+the Hervey Isles; and to those he is said to have been a kind
+master, caring for them in sickness as in health, by the provision
+of good hospitals.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course there were not lacking enemies who grudged Mr
+Stewart his apparent success, and many were the virulent attacks
+made upon him by other settlers in the group. Specimens of very
+inferior cotton were circulated in Europe, purporting to be samples
+of the finest growth of Atiamano; and sensational paragraphs appeared
+in various American papers, describing the infamous cruelties
+of which he and his overseers were declared guilty towards
+their wretched labourers. So damaging were these attacks, that
+Mr Stewart demanded a public inquiry, which was granted by the
+French Governor, when all these accusations were proved to be
+iniquitous libels. The little army of 1300 workmen were found
+to be unusually healthy and happy; and the only serious complaint
+made to the commissioners was by the Chinamen, who considered
+it most unfair of Mr Stewart to object to their committing
+suicide by hanging, as the easiest way of paying their gambling
+debts!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This cloud of aspersions having been effectually disproved,
+everything looked fair on the surface till, in an evil day, the shareholders
+began to take alarm. No title-deeds were forthcoming.
+All capital had evaporated utterly, and in 1874 the luckless
+manager died miserably, and the great bubble burst. Now the
+whole place is falling to ruin, and a more miserable sight I have
+rarely seen. A certain number of the Chinamen still remain—they,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>of course, can always contrive to pick up a living somehow—but
+the bulk of the large village of wooden houses, once tenanted
+by master and men, now stands empty, the plantation is utterly
+neglected, the cotton-fields are all overgrown with guava scrub, and
+the whole place is a picture of desolation; nothing flourishes save
+the long avenue of plantains, which, Tahiti fashion, are planted on
+either side of the road.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It seems strange that no enterprising person should have stepped
+in to buy up the estate which, at the time of Mr Stewart’s death,
+was in such good working order; but, like everything else in this
+country, it has suffered from the meddling propensities of the
+French Government, which, when the estate was declared bankrupt,
+fixed on it an upset price so exorbitant, that no purchaser has yet
+been found, nor is any likely to come forward.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have now got into the true orange country. Some of the
+trees here are much larger than the parent trees, which we saw
+near Sydney; and yet, as compared with the orange-groves of
+Malta, we thought the Australian trees were perfect giants—that
+is to say, we could walk upright under their lowest branches. The
+whole air is perfumed with the fragrant blossoms, and boughs have
+been gathered to adorn our rooms.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here, though the dining-hall is as fine as in other districts, the
+sleeping quarters are less inviting, so Marau offered me a room in
+the house assigned to her. Being a native house (<i>i.e.</i>, not built of
+wood, as many now are), it is rather like living in a bamboo cage,
+exceedingly airy and transparent; but it is lined with temporary
+curtains, so we are screened from the general public. This afternoon
+we strolled along the coast till we found a most delightful
+bathing-place, where the Anapu, a clear delicious river, flows into
+the sea. The two pretty girls, Manihinihi and Vaetua, of course
+bore us company, as also the queen’s handmaid, who was laden
+with <i>pareos</i> and towels; the <i>pareo</i> being simply a couple of fathoms
+of bright-coloured calico, which, knotted over one shoulder,
+forms an efficient and picturesque bathing-gown.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned just in time for such a fish-dinner as Greenwich
+never equalled. Fish of all sorts and kinds (cooked and raw to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>suit all tastes), excellent lobsters and crabs, huge fresh-water
+prawns, delicate little oysters, which grow on the roots and
+branches of the mangrove, which fringes some muddy parts of the
+shore. But most excellent of all is another product of the briny
+mud, altogether new to me—a hideous but truly delicious white
+cray-fish (<i>cankrelat de mer</i>, my French friends call it, <i>varo</i> or <i>wurrali</i>
+in Tahitian). We have all registered a solemn vow never to
+lose a chance of a <i>varo</i> feast. Then there were shell-fish and salads,
+and many other good things. The tables were decorated in a
+manner quite in keeping with the dishes served, with pillars of
+white banana root-stem, just like alabaster, with a fringe of large
+prawns at the top, and a frieze of small lobsters below—a very
+effective study of scarlet and white.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After the feast we all sat out in the moonlight, listening to the
+<i>himène</i> singing, which, I need scarcely say, was lovely. But of
+course some districts excel, and have finer voices, more practice,
+and a better conductor.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have just been told that we are only thirty-five miles from
+Papeete. We have taken the journey in such enjoyably short
+stages, that we have certainly made the most of our distance.
+Now we are approaching the southern peninsula, which is connected
+with this, the main isle, by a comparatively low wide ridge.
+This we are to cross to-morrow.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On the Peninsula, Taravou</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Wednesday, 17th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning at daybreak the admiral went off to attend Mass,
+and then examine the schools. He seems inclined to administer
+very even-handed justice between the Catholics and Protestants,
+which does not greatly gratify some of the priests. We spent the
+morning pleasantly strolling about the village of bird-cage houses
+embowered in the orange-groves, and gay with rosy oleanders and
+crimson hybiscus.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At eight we started. The weather was threatening; and soon
+heavy rain came on, which mocked our waterproofs, and gave us a
+thorough soaking, which we all bore philosophically, only regretting
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>that we drove through a most lovely ferny pass at a moment
+when all our umbrellas were striving to exclude the rain, in which
+they failed, and only succeeded in hiding the view.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Near the village of Papeari we found all the children of the
+Catholic school, headed by a very pleasant, keen-looking young
+priest, drawn up with the <i>himène</i> singers to welcome the king and
+the admiral. Of course they were all drenched, but none the less
+musical. At the head of the singers stood Marau’s aunt, Minito, a
+true Tahitian chiefess, sister to Mrs Salmon, and widow of Mr
+Sumner, a Sandwich Island half-white.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The rain having ceased, we all walked together to Mrs Sumner’s
+house, where we were partially dried—no fear of fever in this
+blessed climate. We then proceeded to the large <i>cheferie</i>, where
+breakfast was prepared in the usual style—the house prettily
+decorated with flags, tree-ferns, and plaited cocoa-palm leaves.
+The tables were all adorned with ornaments made of the solid
+white banana-stalk, in which were set branches of thorny lemon,
+and on each thorn were stuck different blossoms, scarlet or yellow
+hybiscus, canna, and gardenia. “When we were seated, women
+came round bearing garlands of the delicate artificial arrowroot
+flowers, and crowned every one of us. Many of the party had
+already secured filmy plumes of the snowy <i>reva-reva</i>; and the
+majority of the women, following the good example of Marau,
+no longer pretend to have cut off their beautiful hair, but now
+wear it in two long jet-black tresses, adorned with gardenias or
+such other fragrant blossoms as they may find. With flowers
+as necklaces and ear-rings, the Court mourning is becoming less
+lugubrious.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After breakfast, <i>himènes</i> as usual, with interludes of most hideous
+dancing. There is never any variety, always the same utterly
+ungraceful wriggle. Happily the band generally comes to the
+rescue, with some attractive air, which puts the dancers to flight.
+There never seem to be more than two or three, and these do it as
+a professional exhibition—as a curious relic of olden times.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It does seem strange (accustomed as I now am to the endlessly
+varied and most graceful dances of the Fijians) to find that these
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>Tahitians have apparently no notion of dancing, except this <i>Upa-upa</i>,
+which for many years was discountenanced by the chiefs, in
+their first anxiety to put away every trace of heathenism. But
+under French influence it has been revived; and though the more
+respectable natives consider it an objectionable exhibition, and one
+in which few care to join, a certain number of dancers crop up at
+every village where we halt: their position, however, appears to be
+no higher than that of strolling jugglers at English fairs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In heathen days the <i>Upa-upa</i> was the distinguishing dance of
+an atrocious sect called the Areois—religious fanatics and libertines
+of the vilest order, who were held in reverent awe by the
+people, and allowed every sort of privilege. They travelled from
+village to village in very large companies, sometimes filling from
+fifty to eighty canoes. Whenever they landed great sacrifices were
+offered to the gods; and for so long as they chose to remain in one
+place, they were the honoured guests of the chief, and had to be
+provided for by the villagers, whom they entertained by acting
+pantomimes and reciting legends of the very unholy gods, singing
+songs in their honour, wrestling, gesticulating, and dancing, till
+they worked themselves up to a pitch of frenzy which was considered
+religious, and the night was spent in wild orgies. Their full
+dress on these occasions generally consisted only of a little scarlet
+and black dye; the seeds of the vermilion-plant and charcoal furnishing
+the materials. At other times they wore kilts of the
+yellow dracæna and wreaths of scarlet Barringtonia.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They were divided into distinct classes, distinguished by the
+manner in which they were tattooed. The lowest class had merely
+a circle round the ankle; the next had one stripe on the left side;
+the third was marked on each shoulder; the fourth on both sides,
+round the body; the fifth was tattooed from the fingers to the
+shoulders, and the leaders were adorned with stockings of the
+same. The imprinting of these indelible class-marks was part of
+a religious festival, at which great offerings of food and goods
+were presented to the gods, and to these their servants, and on
+this one occasion women, were allowed freely to partake of the
+feast, and to eat of the meat which had been offered in sacrifice,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>which at other times they dared not touch without incurring the
+penalty of death.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The most horrible feature of this society was, that by its primary
+law no Areoi was allowed to rear his offspring. Celibacy was
+by no means enjoined—very much the reverse; indeed each Areoi
+had an acknowledged wife, who was a member of the society:
+but of the innumerable children of these favoured sinners, not one
+was ever suffered to live; and any person desiring to enter the
+holy brotherhood, was required in the first instance to murder any
+children he might already have. The sect was supposed to have
+been divinely instituted, and its members were sure of admission
+to the Rohutu <i>noa-noa</i>, or fragrant paradise, in which the blessed
+were to spend an eternity of feasting, with every delight that
+heart or flesh could desire.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The total extinction of this society was one of the most marked
+triumphs of Christianity in this group; and the early missionaries
+record with thankful wonder, that many Areois were among their
+earliest and most zealous converts and steady adherents, and became
+hard-working and successful teachers and native missionaries,
+striving with their whole energy to counteract the evils in which
+they had hitherto been prime movers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Such being the associations connected with this most unattractive
+dance, it certainly is strange to read the regrets, expressed by
+various travellers, that the missionaries should have seen fit to
+discourage it, as if in so doing they had deprived the people of
+some delightful pleasure. It is a very different thing from the
+beautiful and artistic dances of Fiji, which the Wesleyan Mission
+have so wisely encouraged the people to retain, even at their school
+and church festivals.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This afternoon was clear and bright, and the drive to the isthmus
+and then up the ridge was very beautiful. Part of the road lay
+through a real jungle of large orange-trees laden with ripe fruit.
+I need not say how we feasted; as did also herds of many pigs,
+that wander at large through these enchanting thickets, and find
+an ample supply of fruit which falls unheeded on the grass—true
+windfalls! It is from these groves that cargoes of several hundred
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>thousand oranges are carried to San Francisco by every opportunity.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Imagine the joy of some poor ragged-school child, whose one
+treat is an orange at Christmas, and whose home is in the slums of
+any of our horrible cities, could it but wake to find itself in this
+elysium. I remember Dr Guthrie’s ragged schools coming to spend
+one day at Winton Castle with dear old Lady Ruthven, and the
+teachers told me that there were many children present who had
+never before in their short lives set foot in the country. Would
+that they could all be transported for a while to the orange-groves
+of Tahiti!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-day we also passed some large vanilla plantations, in admirable
+order. The vanilla is a creeper, and is planted at the foot
+of some shady shrub, up which it climbs and twines among the
+branches. To economise labour and space, two crops are combined,
+by training the vanilla over either coffee-bushes or the vermilion-tree,
+which carries its bright seeds in small pods. The vanilla
+itself is a precarious crop, requiring much watchful care at each
+stage of its growth, which, however, it well repays, as it fetches
+four dollars per pound. Moreover, it is a fragrant harvest.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This place is a military station; the French have a fort here, and
+some soldiers. I believe that political offenders are sent to Taravou
+to expiate their supposed misdeeds within its walls. M. de Damian,
+commandant of the fort, had provided comfortable quarters for the
+admiral and his party at his own house, and an excellent room was
+most kindly assigned to me. Marau and Ariiaue have gone on to
+another village, where we are to join them in the morning.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French soldiers here employ some of their leisure hours in
+the care of a garden, which rewards them with excellent vegetables
+and glorious roses. I had the delight of arranging delicious nosegays
+for the dinner-table this evening, and have a lovely bunch of
+roses now beside me.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is again raining heavily, but we rejoice thereat, for generally a
+deluge of rain at night is followed by a clear balmy morning, and
+all the lovely vegetation appears in its freshest glory.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now I must bid you good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIV.<br> <span class='c009'><span class='fss'>THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND TAHITI</span> (<i>continued</i>)—<span class='fss'>FRENCH FORT AT TARAVOU—THE PENINSULA—LIFE IN BIRD-CAGE HOUSES—TORCHLIGHT PROCESSION—RETURN TO PAPEETE.</span></span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Pueu</span>, <i>Thursday, 18th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We woke this morning to find this beautiful world bathed in
+sunshine, and I slipped out for a lovely early stroll along the shore.
+There was a great calm, the sea literally without a ripple, reflecting
+the mellow tones of the sky. I followed a wide grass road passing
+through a cocoa plantation—luxuriant young palms of all ages, the
+ground beneath them carpeted with succulent grasses; a combination
+of fresh greens delightful to the eye. I think the heavy rain
+must have driven all the land-crabs out of their holes, for truly
+they were legion, and all were busily feeding, till, aware of a footstep,
+they darted back to their burrows. In some spots they clustered
+in such numbers that the whole bank seemed in motion.
+Some of these are as large as a good Scotch “parten;” but there
+are also a vast number of the tiny crab, with one large bright-coloured
+claw, which love the muddy shore at the mouth of the
+rivers, where you may see them by the thousand, feeding busily
+with a tiny claw while holding the large one before them as a
+shield. Evidently, however, they know discretion to be the better
+part of valour, for at the faintest movement which reveals the approach
+of danger they vanish into their mud-holes faster than the
+twinkling of an eye.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our morning halt was at Afaahiti, a small village of which the
+king himself is the chief, for which reason it had been arranged
+that he should sleep there last night. We found Marau and the
+ladies of the village stringing wreaths of sweet white blossoms, with
+which they crowned themselves and us; and then we all adjourned
+to breakfast in a bamboo house, decorated in the usual style with
+twisted and plaited leaves, and deep fringes of dyed fibre. <i>Himènes</i>,
+of course,—and then, while the band entertained the people, we, the
+unquiet spirits, wandered down to explore the shore, which is overshadowed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>by large trees, beneath which we found various kinds of
+large shells.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At noon we drove on to Pueu, where we were welcomed by a
+very large assemblage, and conducted to the <i>cheferie</i> or district hall,
+really a splendid room, with a beautiful floor: it is like a great
+ball-room. All the dining-tables were set at one end, while nine
+very pretty beds, with artistic crimson and white quilts, and mosquito-nets
+tied up with bright ribbons, were ranged down one side
+of the room. I am ashamed to say that we all took a most uncourteous
+fit of laughing; for really at the first glimpse the row of
+beds seemed to multiply, and we fancied we were all to occupy this
+one room; but we soon discovered that only the junior officers were
+to share it, and that excellent quarters had been prepared for us all
+in different houses. The best house of three rooms was assigned
+to the admiral, his son, and myself; and here I am now cosily
+ensconced for a chat with you. My room, which opens out into
+the verandah, has no doors, so my black waterproof sheet and the
+green tartan plaid, inseparable companion of all my wanderings east
+or west, act as good curtains.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is a lovely place. In the afternoon we roamed through
+fragrant orange-groves, and along the beautiful shore, and I managed
+to secure a sketch of the village. As a matter of course
+there is a large Protestant church, of which all the population
+are members, and a tiny Roman Catholic chapel, without any congregation.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>An exceedingly pretty banquet awaited us in the large <i>cheferie</i>,
+after which we strolled about in the lovely moonlight, while the
+village choirs sang their melodious <i>himènes</i>. At a very short distance
+they sound like full-toned cathedral chimes.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>M. Damian, Taravou</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Friday, 19th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>At grey dawn Queen Marau came to my room to early tea, and
+told me that the house which had been assigned to her and the
+king was so purely native, that they had no beds—only mats and
+pillows—no hardship in this delightful climate, but a curious distribution
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>of hospitality, when to each young lieutenant had been
+assigned so luxuriant a couch.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The drive along the peninsula was most lovely. Always by the
+broad green road running close to the sea, and passing through
+richest foliage of all sorts and forms; crossing crystalline streams
+which flowed down beautiful glens, with great shapely hills on
+either side, and some lonely peak towering at the head of the dark
+ravine. We came to one broad river whence the view was so lovely
+that the admiral most kindly decided to let one of the carriages
+wait while I sketched; an arrangement highly satisfactory to its
+occupants, who went off for a bathe in the clear delicious stream,
+while I stood on the bridge and worked diligently till the last of
+our heavy baggage-carts came across, and proved to be the last
+straw which that poor bridge could bear. An ominous crack, then
+a crash, and the heavy <i>fourgon</i> had broken through the bridge, but
+happily rested on the strong cross timbers, and with infinite trouble
+it was unloaded and raised. Then the bridge had to be repaired,
+as we were to retrace the same road in the afternoon; when the
+other end gave way and broke down, happily without doing serious
+damage.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A short drive brought us to Tautira, a large, very pretty village,
+where the men were playing at spear-throwing. This is the first
+place where we have seen any sort of game played. The admiral,
+according to his custom, inspected the schools, and pronounced a
+verdict not altogether encouraging on the work of a young priest,
+who was setting the children to such useful tasks as copying “<span lang="fr">mon
+âme est souillé de péchés!</span>”<a id='r43'></a><a href='#f43' class='c017'><sup>[43]</sup></a> off a large black slate; they being
+almost as ignorant of French as he of Tahitian. The admiral discourages
+the teaching of French, especially to the girls, rightly
+judging that such knowledge will prove by no means to their moral
+weal.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We were, as usual, most hospitably entertained with all the
+village could give, of fish and fruit, flesh and fowl. Everywhere
+those excellent white cray-fish, the <i>varo</i>, are our chief delicacy.
+Here and there pine-apples are produced, but they are very poor,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>probably uncultivated. The <i>himènes</i> at Tautira were exceedingly
+pretty, and we left that pleasant “world’s end” with much regret.
+The carriage-road does not extend round the peninsula, so we had
+to return to the isthmus to start afresh. We reached Taravou in
+time for dinner, and found the roses beautiful as before.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In a Native House, Teahaupoo</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, 20th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Early this morning we were once more <i>en route</i>, and drove to
+the other side of the peninsula, which is, if possible, even lovelier
+than what we saw yesterday. Marau and the king had preceded
+us to the village of Vairao, where the ladies had employed the
+morning in preparing garlands of a white flower, like jessamine,
+with which they crowned us. This village is poor; so instead
+of receiving us in a fine district house, the people had erected
+very picturesque booths on three sides of a square. The chorus-singers
+were grouped on the grass in the centre, where were also
+heaped up the usual ceremonial offerings of fruit and pigs—apparently
+for show—as there is always an ample supply of food on
+the tables.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here, in addition to the usual vegetables, yams, and <i>taro</i>, sweet potatoes,
+bread-fruit, and <i>faees</i> roasted in wood-ashes, we had calabashes
+of sticky <i>poi</i>, which is a preparation of ripe bread-fruit,
+greatly in favour with the natives, and which in old times was the
+principal food of this island, as it still is in Hawaii. I do not
+think it was ever used in the isles further west, where the bread-fruit
+is a very inferior tree to what it is in this, its native home.
+Most of the <i>poi</i> which is consumed in Hawaii is made from <i>taro</i>,
+and is of a pinkish colour. Here <i>taro</i> is the luxury, bread-fruit
+the staff of life, so it alone is used. When eaten fresh with milk
+it tastes rather like gooseberry-fool; but the natives prefer it fermented,
+and consequently sour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The pulpy fruit is first pounded with a stone pestle in a wooden
+bowl, till it attains the consistency of dough. It is then wrapped
+in leaves and baked in an earth-oven over red-hot stones. Finally,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>it is beaten up with water till it becomes a glutinous yellowish
+mass, indescribably sticky, and with a slightly acid flavour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To the initiated there is always a malicious pleasure in watching
+the undignified efforts of a new hand at dipping into this dish;
+for of course there are no spoons or forks in the question; and a
+stranger, seeing the neatness with which an experienced hand feeds
+himself, is apt to imagine that it is all plain sailing, and so plunges
+recklessly into this most adhesive paste, probably with the result
+of lifting the whole calabash, instead of the mouthful he expected.
+The correct method is to dip the forefinger of the right hand in
+the bowl, and as you draw it out smoothly coated with <i>poi</i>, give it
+a series of rapid twirls to prevent its hanging in glutinous strings;
+then with a final flourish, to keep it from dripping, land the finger
+in the mouth, and draw it back quite free from the paste, and
+ready to repeat the process. Two or more persons generally eat
+out of the same bowl, in which case they have cocoa-nut shells of
+fresh water beside them in which to wash their finger before dipping
+again in the <i>poi</i>; but it really does not much matter, as the
+preparation is so very sticky that you must of necessity appropriate
+every particle you touch, so you and your neighbour are in no
+danger of exchanging atoms! as you would be, in sharing a bowl
+of well-chewed <i>kava</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>That beverage of the isles did not appear at this native feast; in
+fact I have never seen it in Tahiti, and suppose it must have died
+out before the superior attractions of orange-rum and similar decoctions.
+On the present occasion, cocoa-nuts were the only drink,
+with the exception of pure water. As regards the latter, I was
+much struck by an ingenious substitute for water-jars. At every
+supporting post of the booths was fastened an upright bamboo,
+perhaps twelve feet in length, and pierced from end to end, only
+the lowest joint being left intact. Here a spigot was introduced,
+and the bamboo being filled with water, supplied drink for all the
+thirsty multitude. As drinking-cups, the people here still use
+cocoa-nut cups, scraped very thin and polished by constant friction
+on a stone in water, till they become as light, and almost as transparent,
+as tortoise-shell. The <i>himènes</i> here were the prettiest we
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>have yet heard, and you can understand that we are by this time
+quite connoisseurs in this peculiar music. The <i>Upa-upa</i> was
+danced with unusual zest, but was none the less ungraceful.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another most exquisite drive brought us to Teahaupoo, where
+we wandered about, lost in admiration, while the king and the
+admiral were undergoing the usual official speeches. The feast
+this evening was rather dull, being spread along one side of a very
+long and dimly lighted table. Of course we always require artificial
+light for dinner, as, in the tropics, the sun sets all the year
+round at about six o’clock, rising at about the same hour in the
+morning. We often think enviously of your long summer twilight.
+But then, on the other hand, we have no short, dark, winter days.
+Again to-night the <i>himène</i> singing was unusually fascinating. It
+varies much, and the most charming glees are those which are
+most suggestive of musical chimes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Queen Marau offered me quarters in the large native house
+awarded to her and Ariiaue. It consisted of one large room
+without divisions, containing several good beds, with the usual
+pretty bright quilts and mosquito-nets. We curtained off one
+end of the room for the king and an old chief, and they are now
+sleeping peacefully, as we should also be doing—so good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Taravou</span>, <i>Sunday, 21st</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Being a light sleeper, I was awakened long before dawn by
+hearing Ariiaue and his companion astir, and soon after 4 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>
+they started for Afaahiti, the king’s own village. The rain was
+pouring in a pitiless, relentless fashion; and beat in beneath the
+wide eaves against the open walls of our bird-cage house. Still we
+would fain have stayed where we were, and reluctantly obeyed
+the order to be <i>en voiture</i> at seven o’clock, to return to the isthmus.
+The rain never ceased, and all the beauty which gladdened us
+yesterday was invisible. Only sheets of grey drifting cloud, and
+dripping trees, dripping carriages, horses, and umbrellas. We left
+Marau at Afaahiti, while we drove on to these now familiar
+quarters, where I have the luxury of a large, good room. Of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>course we all arrived soaked, and have spent the day in trying to
+get dry. I think most of the gentlemen have managed a few
+hours of sleep.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>In the Cheferie, Mahaena</span>, <i>Monday, 22d</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>An early drive brought us to Hitiaa, the house of little Hinoi’s
+mother, the pretty young widow of the Prince de Joinville. Everything
+here was very gracefully done, and the festival as purely
+native as possible. Here the severity of Court mourning was not
+mitigated, and all the women wore crowns of fibre dyed black,
+which looked very sombre.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Immediately after breakfast we started for Mahaena, preceded
+by a party of six or eight picturesque lancers, who had formed
+part of old Queen Pomare’s body-guard. They added a pleasant
+feature to the beautiful scenery as they rode along the green glades,
+through the usual successions of glorious foliage;—groves of magnificent
+bread-fruit trees, indigenous to those isles; next a clump of
+noble mango-trees, recently imported, but now quite at home; then
+a group of tall palms, or a long avenue of gigantic bananas, their
+leaves, sometimes twelve feet long, meeting over our heads. Then
+came patches of sugar or Indian corn, and next a plantation of
+vanilla, trained to climb over closely planted tall coffee, or else over
+vermilion-bushes. Sometimes it is planted, without more ado, at
+the root of pruned guava bushes. These grow wild over the whole
+country, loaded with large, excellent fruit, and, moreover, supply
+the whole fuel of the isles, and good food for cattle. They are all
+self-sown,—descendants of a few plants introduced as garden fruit trees,—and
+now they have overrun the isles and are looked upon
+by the planters as a curse, because of the rapidity and tenacity
+with which they take possession of any patch of neglected land.
+Yet a plant which so generously yields food for man and beast,
+and abundant fuel, is surely not altogether evil! Amongst all this
+wealth of food-producing vegetation, I sometimes looked in vain
+for any trees that were merely ornamental; and literally there were
+only the yellow hybiscus, which yields the useful fibre, and the
+candle-nut, covered with clusters of white blossoms, somewhat
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>resembling white lilac, and bearing nuts with oily kernels, whence
+the tree derives its name.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The method of manufacturing candles from candle-nuts is delightfully
+simple. First the nuts are lightly baked, to render their
+very hard shell more brittle; the kernels are thus obtained whole,
+and a hole being bored in each, about a dozen are strung together
+on the mid-rib of a palm-leaf, which acts as the wick, and the oily
+nuts, each the size of a walnut, burn slowly with a dim light and
+oppressive smell.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On our arrival here, we were met by a messenger from Papeete,
+announcing an outbreak of a serious form of influenza, from which
+the king’s aunt died this morning. This is a great grief to the
+royal brothers, who at once started to attend her funeral. Ties of
+family affection appear to be very strong in Tahiti, and this sad
+news has cast a gloom on everything. It is very grievous for our
+hosts, who had made their preparations with great care, and were
+looking forward to this opportunity of testifying their loyalty.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The river here is lovely. Marau and I bathed together, and I
+spent the afternoon sketching. During the evening <i>himènes</i>, we
+all sat in pleasant groups on the shore, or strolled along to the
+mouth of the river. For our night quarters, this large district
+house has been divided by temporary screens, charmingly decorated
+with quaintly knotted palm-leaves and tree-ferns. I share one of
+these divisions with the queen, the admiral and his son occupy the
+next, and all the other gentlemen have disposed of themselves at
+the further end.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papenoo</span>, <i>Tuesday, 23d</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Last night, for the first time, we were all devoured by fleas, and
+a chorus of aggravation arose from all sides of the pretty <i>cheferie</i>.
+Everything was beautifully clean, so we attribute the presence of
+these unwelcome intruders to the fact that the hay, which is
+always laid as a carpet on the wooden floor, must have been too
+old.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We all compared notes of distress over our morning coffee—then,
+as usual, forgot all save the beauty of the scenery as we
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>drove along the shore to Tiarei, where a temporary avenue of <i>faees</i>,
+or wild banana, had been planted with infinite trouble and at a
+great sacrifice of fine fruit-bearing plants. The peculiarity of the
+<i>faees</i><a id='r44'></a><a href='#f44' class='c017'><sup>[44]</sup></a> is, that instead of carrying its huge cluster of fruit pendent,
+beneath its broad leaves, it carries it upright in the centre. The
+<i>faees</i> invariably grow in the most inaccessible ravines and crevices
+of the rock; so it must have been a troublesome task to carry these
+down, without injury to the large delicate leaves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We were welcomed by a large family of chiefs, and specially by
+a kind old lady, who kissed us all on both cheeks, down to M.
+Hardouin, A.D.C., when Marau’s untimely laughter stopped her
+proceeding to the remaining eighteen officers! Though the absence
+of the king must have made it rather flat for the chiefs, the official
+speeches were made to the admiral, and the <i>himènes</i> sung as usual.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then followed a most lovely drive, the road cut along the face
+of basaltic cliffs, and here we are close to another very fine river,
+which of course implies pleasant bathing and sketching. This
+evening we had a delightful stroll along the shore, the wavelets
+breaking on a pebbly beach. At the last moment, the moon rose
+glorious from the sea—a vision of great beauty.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We are very comfortably housed to-night in the chief’s own
+house. Marau and I occupy one end, and his family have the
+other.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Rev. James Green, Papeete</span>, <i>Oct. 25th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Late last night we returned to headquarters, and I to this pleasant
+nest, very glad of the prospect of a few days’ rest. Yesterday
+was a long day, for I was out sketching with the first ray of light,
+and worked till it was time to start for the Haapepe district, of
+which the king’s brother, Terii Tapunui is chief. He is distressingly
+lame, but is a very good fellow, with a particularly nice wife,
+a cousin of the charming Moë. She is noted for her skill in making
+pretty hats. They received us at Point Venus, so called because
+Captain Cook thence observed the transit of Venus in 1769.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Pomare and Tamatoa rejoined the party after returning from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span>their aunt’s funeral; and the three brothers spent the afternoon
+together by themselves—a wise course, as Tamatoa had striven so
+hard to drown his grief, that he had attained a jocose-beatific condition,
+very annoying to the king, who all this time has been a
+model of sobriety, greatly to the delight of the admiral.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This quiet little village presents the usual anomaly of a very
+large Roman Catholic church without a congregation, standing
+close to the original congregational church. The latter is a large
+cool building, in which I gladly took refuge to escape from noise
+and heat; for several friends who had driven down from Papeete
+to meet us, were so delighted to find a smooth carpet, that they
+commenced dancing immediately after late breakfast, and kept it
+up merrily all the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When the heat began to subside I found my way to the great
+lighthouse, where the French officials were most obliging, and did
+the honours of their lofty tower with all courtesy. From the
+summit there is a grand view of mountains, including Orofena,
+which is the highest point of Tahiti—height 7336 feet. At our
+feet lay the village, concealed by a sea of waving palms, only their
+crowns visible, and rippling like running water as the light breeze
+passed over them. It was a splendid sketching-point, and I held
+my ground till a party of the dancers came to summon me to the
+banquet.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then followed as pretty a scene as I have ever witnessed. We
+had to drive twelve miles to Papeete; and as the nights are dark,
+and the moon was not due till towards midnight, we knew that
+torches would be required—but only expected the necessary number.
+The Tahitians had, however, resolved on a demonstration, to
+show their appreciation of the course adopted by the admiral, and
+their gratitude for his sympathy. So when we had toiled up a
+long steep hill, about three miles from Point Venus, we were met
+by a company of stalwart men carrying blazing torches of cocoa-palm
+leaves, about twelve feet long. These turned and preceded
+us, their numbers receiving continual reinforcements, some on horseback,
+some on foot, till they mustered fully a thousand, and the
+ruddy glare of the torches illumined the rich masses of foliage,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>gleaming on the glossy leaves of the bread-fruit, and the bright
+sword-like fronds of the palms, while the lurid smoke lent something
+of cloudy mystery to the whole. Add to this, the presence
+of all the inhabitants, who of course poured out from every bird-cage
+cottage along the road and joined the procession, adding their
+quota of mirth and chatter to the general hubbub. Of course with
+so many walkers we could only progress at a foot’s pace, and nine
+miles of this at last became somewhat bewildering; it seemed as if
+we were moving in a strange dream. A party of native drummers
+added their very trying “music” to the general noise; but happily
+the band fell into the spirit of the thing, and though their afternoon’s
+work fully entitled them to rest, they played at intervals all
+the way.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the outskirts of the town there was a halt, and in obedience
+to municipal regulations every torch was extinguished, and we
+entered the ill-lighted town in almost complete darkness. It was
+a wise precaution, however, as the air was full of flying sparks, and
+a conflagration would make short work of the dry wooden houses.
+Happily the large crowd was quiet and orderly; and so far as I
+am aware, I myself am the only sufferer from that half-hour’s
+darkness, during which my beloved green plaid was abstracted
+from the bundle in which I had placed it. I think I know the
+thief—at least I have the strongest reason to suspect a half-caste,
+in no way connected with Tahiti, save by residence. But I fear
+there is not the slightest hope of ever recovering it. It was a large
+green plaid, of “Black Watch” tartan, which has been my inseparable
+companion and delight for many a year, and in many a strange
+place. I have slept in it on the top of Adam’s Peak, and in the
+wonderful jungle cities of Ceylon, and it has travelled to the remotest
+corners of Australasia and Polynesia, and many and varied
+are its associations with people and things.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Oh, my plaid was dear to me!”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c019'>and deeply do I abhor the covetous thief who has robbed me, so
+infinitely beyond the value of a few fathoms of tartan;</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“For we cannot buy with gold</div>
+      <div class='line'>The old associations.”</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>Quite a number of the neighbours have called here to-day, and
+welcomed me back as if I were an old friend returning from a
+long journey. There is a cordiality and a heartiness about them all,
+which is truly delightful. How different from a return to England
+after a few years’ absence, when the people you had supposed to be
+intimate friends vaguely ask you “if you haven’t been somewhere
+abroad?” and perhaps, if they are unusually hospitable, invite you
+to luncheon the following week!</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Friday, 26th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning Narii Salmon took me on board the Seignelay to
+see my old friends and my old quarters. They welcomed me back
+most heartily, and seemed really glad that I had seen the isle to
+such advantage—but they themselves were all dull and sad. Time
+has as yet done nothing to heal their grief, and indeed the ship
+seems altogether changed, even externally, for she has been painted
+white, to match La Magicienne.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I returned with Narii to breakfast with his sister, Mrs Brander;
+there we were joined by the admiral, who came to make arrangements
+with her for the next part of the programme; for she is as
+sensible as she is handsome, which is saying much, and her opinions
+and suggestions carry great weight with every one.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Already preparations are being made for another grand expedition,
+for there are several lesser isles subject to the king of Tahiti;
+and next week the Seignelay is to convey the king and queen and
+their party to Moorea, the beautiful island which we passed on the
+morning of our arrival in Tahiti, and of which Mrs Brander is the
+high chiefess.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I hear that there is a chance of letters being despatched by some
+vessel, so I may as well close this.... Your loving sister.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XV.<br> <span class='c009'>THE SEMAPHORE—IMMUTABLE TIDES—THE CORAL-REEF—SPEARING FISH—NETTING—CATCHING SHARKS—A ROYAL MAUSOLEUM—SUPERSTITIONS OF EAST AND WEST—CENTIPEDES—INTOXICATING DRINKS—INFLUENZA—DEATH OF MRS SIMPSON.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>The Rev. James Green</span>, <i>Oct. 27th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have had a day after my own heart. In the early morning
+Mr Green drove me to the foot of the semaphore hill, up which I
+toiled, and gave myself into the care of the old sailor who lives
+there, watching the horizon for the first glimpse of a sail, and then
+hoists signals by which the good folk of Papeete learn from what
+direction the new-comer may be expected. Then, as she draws
+nearer, the signals reveal her class and her nationality.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I remained for several hours, working up an elaborate drawing,
+begun soon after my arrival. The view of the town and harbour,
+as seen from this point, is truly lovely, and the effect of a coral-reef,
+as you look down on it from a height, is always fascinating.
+Every conceivable tint seems to play beneath the surface—browns
+and golds blending with pale aqua-marine and sparkling emerald,
+while turquoise and cerulean pass into delicate lilac and purply
+blue. The reef appears from the semaphore to lie in the form of a
+horse-shoe, so that it literally suggests a rainbow beneath the
+waters.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>By the time Mr Green came to drive me back to breakfast, I
+was truly glad to escape from the blazing sun, and to rest in this
+pleasant home during the hot hours.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Late in the afternoon Narii lent us a boat, in which we rowed
+out to the reef, always to me one of the most enchanting ploys that
+can be conceived; and here it gains an additional charm from an
+extraordinary phenomenon in the tides, which I am told occurs
+throughout the Society Isles, but in no other place that I ever
+heard of—namely, that they never vary from one year’s end to
+another. Day after day they ebb and flow with unchanging regularity.
+At noonday and at midnight the tide is invariably at the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>full; while at sunrise and sunset—in other words, at six o’clock
+morning and evening—throughout the year, it is low water. The
+rise and fall rarely exceeds two feet; but periodically, at an interval
+of about six months, a mighty sea comes rolling in from the west
+or south-west, and, sweeping over the reef, bursts violently on the
+shore.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I do not know whether any scientific theory has been propounded
+concerning this tidal eccentricity, which is perhaps the most remarkable
+thing connected with the group.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I believe some writers have tried to account for it by reference
+to the trade-winds, which blow so steadily at certain hours of the
+day; but these must have been very inaccurate observers, as the
+tides rise and fall with equal regularity in the most sultry calm or
+the most riotous sea-breeze. In fact they are sometimes rather
+higher in dead calms, and on the leeward side of the isles, which
+are sheltered from the trade-winds. In any case, these blow only
+in the daytime, and die away entirely at night. Curiously enough,
+they do not even affect the periodical flood-tides, or rather tidal
+waves, of which I spoke just now, as these invariably come from
+the westward, whereas the trade-winds blow steadily from the east.
+So punctual is the daily rise and fall of the tides, that the accustomed
+eyes of the people can discern the hour of the day by a
+glance at the shore or the reef, as at a marine chronometer, which
+here never loses or gains time.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The peculiar charm of this, as concerns the reef, is that the low
+tide, which is the hour of delight, always occurs at the coolest
+hours of morning and evening, so there is no temptation to incur
+sunstroke by exposure to the noontide rays. And the reef at
+Tahiti is, beyond all question, the richest I have seen. It seems to
+me that all the marvels of the Fijian reef are here reproduced on a
+magnified scale—the mysterious zoophytes are larger, their colours
+more intense, the forms of the fish more varied and eccentric, and
+their scaly dress striped and zigzagged with patterns like those on an
+ingenious clown, or perhaps suggestive of quaint heraldry.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-night I saw some gigantic specimens of that wonderful star-fish
+we first found in Fiji, with fifteen arms covered with very
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>sharp grey and orange spines like those of an echinus, and an
+underside of pale-yellow fleshy feelers with suckers like those of
+the sea-anemone<a id='r45'></a><a href='#f45' class='c017'><sup>[45]</sup></a>—a marvellously uncanny-looking compound. I
+also saw thousands of prickly sea-urchins of divers sorts, from the
+heavy acrocladia,<a id='r46'></a><a href='#f46' class='c017'><sup>[46]</sup></a> with spikes as large as your fingers and heavy as
+stone, to the very brittle species no larger than a pigeon’s egg, and
+covered with piercing needles five or six inches long—a particularly
+unpleasant creature to step upon, especially with bare feet, as the
+natives have. These echini are of all colours, from the richest
+maroon and claret to purple and blue. Some are suggestive of
+large full-blown thistles, and all more or less resemble hedgehogs
+or porcupines. One very delicate flat kind is pure white, and
+marked on the back with a very finely traced double star.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some of the water-snakes are very beautifully marked with blue,
+gold, or green bars on a velvety black ground; they glide and coil
+themselves in and out of the coral branches. I was much struck
+by the immense size of some sea-anemones, as large as a wash-hand
+basin: these also, are of all sorts of colours. These are the chosen
+play-fellows of most exquisite tiny fish, like morsels of black velvet,
+with a pattern exactly like a fairy peacock’s feather on either gill.
+Not one of these exceeded two inches in length; and I watched a
+shoal of about thirty playing hide-and-seek among the feelers of the
+polype. You can hardly conceive anything so fascinating as the
+glimpses of fairyland to be obtained by allowing your boat to float
+at will in the shallowest possible water, while you peer down into
+the wonder-world beneath you, where the many-tinted corals, seaweeds,
+and zoophytes, form wonderful gardens, of which the brilliant
+blue star-fish, and strangely beautiful sea-anemones, are the
+gay blossoms.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The butterflies which woo these flowers of the sea are shoals of
+the most exquisite minute fishes, which dart through the crystal
+water like rays of opal. Now it is a group of turquoise blue, like
+forget-me-nots of the deep, and as they vanish among green seaweeds,
+out flash a merry party primrose-coloured. Then come a
+little family of richest Albert blue, which pause a moment to greet
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>their little friends the pure gold-fish; and as these glide in between
+the rock-ledges, up swims a joyous little shoal of delicate pale-green
+fish, with perhaps a tiny silvery eel or two; and some there are
+pure scarlet, others bright blue streaked with scarlet. These and a
+thousand more, varying in form as in colour, but all alike minute,
+are among the tempting beauties which make me always wish you
+were with me, that I might hear your raptures of delight.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There are some most attractive gold-fish with broad bands of
+black, which terminate in wing-like fins; and others, still more
+fascinating, are silvery, with a delicate rosy flush. Some are yellow,
+striped with violet; others are pure scarlet, spotted with cobalt.
+I think my favourites are bright turquoise blue with a gold collar.
+Then there are some very large fish of the glossiest green, and
+others of a dazzling crimson. But the most <i>distingué</i>-looking fishes
+are those which temper their gay colours with bands or zigzags of
+black velvet. Their forms are as varied as their colours, long or
+short, round, flat, or triangular.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While these flash and dart in and out of their forest sanctuary,
+you may see large shells travelling over the coral-ledges, a good deal
+faster than you would suppose possible, till you see that they are
+tenanted by large hermit-crabs. Other crabs are in their own lawful
+shells, as are also the wary lobsters; and here and there are
+scattered some rare shells, such as we see in collections at home,
+and suppose to be quite common in the tropics, where, however, as
+a rule, they are only obtained by professional divers. Of course
+such as are washed up on the shore are dead shells, utterly worthless.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Quite apart from the mere delight to the eyes of gazing at these
+varied beauties, the reef has its useful aspect in regard to the commissariat.
+At every low tide a crowd of eager fishers repair thither,
+to see what manner of supper awaits them.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here, as in all these isles where wild animals do not exist, the
+sea furnishes the happy hunting-grounds of rich and poor. Swift
+canoes or boats take the place of hounds and horses; and the coral-reef
+affords as much delight to high and low, as a Scotch deer-forest
+or heathery moor does to the wealthy few in Britain.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>Can you not fancy the thrilling excitement of standing on the
+brink of the reef watching the huge green billows rolling in with
+thunder roar, and curling their grand white crests ere dashing on
+the rock in cataracts of foam, carrying with them many a strange
+creature of the deep? For these the fisherman keeps keen watch,
+standing with spear all ready poised to strike whatever may come
+within his reach. But more exciting still is the fishing by torchlight
+on the dark moonless nights, when a torch made of dried
+reeds is carried in one hand, and the spear in the other, ready to
+strike the unwary fish, attracted by the glare. Small fish are caught
+with a different sort of spear, consisting of six or eight metal rods
+lashed to a long stick; when this is dexterously plunged into a
+shoal, some fish are pretty sure to be pinched and held firm.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Very often large parties go together to the reef, each bearing a
+flaming torch, and sometimes they fish for eels in the rivers in the
+same way. In either case the effect is most picturesque. I have
+seen the shallow lagoon just inside the reef all illuminated by these
+flashing lights, which tell where the canoes are gliding, and just
+reveal the statuesque figures at the prow, with uplifted torch and
+spear all ready poised: grand studies in bronze, as perfect models
+as sculptor could desire, and rich bits of colour for the artist who
+can render the warm ruddy glow, reflected by a well-oiled brown
+skin, with a background of dark sea and sky.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At other times the sport lies in some form of netting. A whole
+company of women assemble, laughing and chattering as only South
+Sea Islanders can. Perhaps a dozen are told off to carry a great
+net, which they sink when up to their necks in water; then forming
+a wide semicircle, they gradually approach the shore, lifting
+their net so as not to tear it on the rough coral-bed, and driving as
+many fish as they can enclose towards the shallow water, whence
+they can scoop them up in their little baskets, which they empty
+into larger ones slung from the waist. In this way myriads of tiny
+silvery fish are caught.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Sometimes the men adopt this method of driving larger fish
+into shallow water, and then spear them in the way I have just
+described. The best marksmen stand a little apart, watching keenly
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>for any fish that may escape the net, and throwing their spears at
+such fugitives with almost unerring aim. It is a scene of immense
+excitement; and the fun of the sport is enhanced by the prospect
+of an abundant supper. For this sort of fishing seine-nets are
+made, 100 feet in length; or else several large nets, about 40 feet
+long by 12 deep, are joined together so as to enclose a very wide
+space.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Women carry small fine casting-nets in the hand, and throw
+them so dexterously as often to enclose a whole shoal of little
+fishes; some kinds are no bigger than whitebait. For larger fish,
+akin to herrings and salmon, various nets are made of different
+fibres, such as the hybiscus, banyan, or pandanus bark or flax, the
+two latter being the strongest and most durable. Sometimes two
+nets are thrown at the same time—an inner net with fine mesh,
+and an outer one much coarser—to resist any larger fish which
+might break through the inner one. They were weighted by stones
+wrapped in cocoa-nut fibre, and the floats are made of hybiscus-wood,
+which is found to be very buoyant. When the nets are
+brought ashore, they are hung up to dry on the trees and shrubs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nowadays the ordinary hooks of commerce have almost superseded
+the clumsy but efficacious hooks of pearl-shell or bone.
+Those used in fishing for dolphin or bonitos were formerly attached
+to a mother-of-pearl shank, about six inches long, carved to resemble
+a fish. Excellent wooden hooks were also made by twisting
+the young roots of the casuarina or iron-wood tree, and leaving
+them till they had grown to a suitable size. In old days, when
+sharks were considered a delicacy, they were beguiled by large
+wooden hooks from twelve to fifteen inches in length. Cuttle-fish
+are attracted by a bait very much resembling that used in Fiji,
+where an imitation of a rat is made of cowrie-shells. I do not
+know whether the Tahitians have a similar legend of the enmity
+between the rat and the cuttle-fish. Here the cowrie-shells are
+cut into pieces, and fastened one over another like the scales of an
+armadillo, and so made into an oval ball the size of a rat. This
+being attached to a strong line, is lowered from a canoe, and
+gently jerked so as to move like a living creature. The cuttle-fish,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>which lies safely ensconced in some hole in the rocks, throws out
+a long arm and lassoes its prey, the plated armour giving it a
+firmer grip. Failing to draw in this unknown variety of rat, it
+throws out another arm, and yet another, till at length it slips out
+of its stronghold, and is drawn to the surface, holding its prize
+firmly enlaced.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is not “all fish that comes to the net” in these seas. Many
+which are wholesome at one season are downright poison during
+the months when the coral is said to be in “blossom;” during
+which time these fish crunch it with their strong teeth. Others
+become poisonous by feeding on sea-centipedes—curious creatures
+which twine themselves round the coral, and resemble yards of
+black string with myriad tiny legs. There are certain fish which
+may be eaten with impunity on one isle, and are positively deadly
+if caught on other reefs. The natives themselves have sometimes
+died by rashly trusting to their experience of their own fishing-grounds,
+and so venturing to eat the identical fish caught elsewhere.
+There are also certain sea-crabs which it is very unsafe to eat.
+Curiously enough, all varieties of land-crab are said to be good for
+food; but there is a white-shelled sea-crab which generally proves
+fatal, and is sometimes eaten as a means of committing suicide.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Even shell-collectors have to be wary how they handle the
+treasures they discover, as there are certain shell-fish which are
+armed with minute barbs, through which they inject virulent
+poison into the hand that touches them. The most dangerous of
+these is a beautiful cone,<a id='r47'></a><a href='#f47' class='c017'><sup>[47]</sup></a> which has been known to cause death
+within a few hours. No sooner is it touched than a thrill of
+sharp pain flies up to the shoulder, and soon the body swells to
+an enormous size, and the hapless sufferer dies in agony.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Do you remember a somewhat similar case—though happily it
+did not prove fatal—which occurred on our own shores, when Mr
+Hope G—— incautiously picked up a large jelly-fish, which so
+poisoned his blood that weeks of torture ensued? These beautiful
+sea-thistles (sea-nettles rather) are not to be touched with
+impunity.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span>The men engaged in the <i>bêche-de-mer</i> fisheries find that those
+hideous gelatinous slugs which appear so very helpless, are also
+capable of inflicting severe pain. They resemble great sausages of
+dark-coloured india-rubber, black, grey, red, or greenish, inflated
+with sea-water. When touched, they eject this water with some
+violence, and if it falls on any wound or scratch it produces dangerous
+and agonising inflammation. The smallest drop squirted
+into the eye causes intolerable burning pain; and many of the
+tripang-fishers have their sight seriously injured from this cause.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But more noxious by far is the olive-green variety, which is
+commonly called the leopard, from being marked with orange-coloured
+spots. When this creature is touched it throws up
+glutinous filaments like darning-cotton, which not only adhere
+tenaciously to whatever they touch, but if they come in contact
+with the human skin, they instantly raise a painful burning blister
+and cause serious inflammation. Such being the case, it would
+appear discreet to leave these ugly creatures unmolested; but as
+they are accounted a great delicacy in China, and fetch from
+£80 to £100 per ton, the risk is considered worth incurring.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another serious danger of the reef arises from the various
+voracious sea-eels, which coil themselves up in the interstices of
+the coral and dart out to seize any prey which comes within reach.
+I was severely bitten myself one day while incautiously feeling
+for small fish; but many natives have thus been maimed for life,
+the loss of a few fingers being a comparative trifle. I heard of
+one man in the Paumotu Isles who had the whole calf of his leg
+bitten off by a <i>vaaroa</i>, or long-mouthed eel, a reptile which attains
+a length of eight feet or more, and roams about the reef seeking
+what it may devour. It was formerly an object of worship, in
+common with the conger-eel; and bloody vengeance has on more
+than one occasion been taken by the heathen on such of their
+Christian neighbours as have presumed to eat this incarnate god.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>About fifteen years ago, a party of about eighty persons reached
+Samoa, after drifting over the wide seas for several weeks. They
+had been driven away from the isle of Fakaofa, where several of
+their number had been killed in consequence of having eaten congereels,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>which the people of that isle held in reverence. Another fish-deity
+was the octopus, which in heathen days it would have been
+sacrilege to eat, but which is now recognised as excellent food. I
+have never tasted one myself, but I am told that, though it looks
+so gelatinous, it really is tough and unpalatable.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The girls catch delicate young cuttle-fish in the shallows on the
+reef; but sometimes the tables are turned and they are themselves
+caught by overgrown monsters, which lie concealed in deep holes
+in the coral, and throw out long arms covered with suckers, with
+which they grasp whatever lies within reach and drag it inward.
+Some of these measure fully six feet across the arms, from tip to
+tip; and many horrible stories are current among the fishers of their
+adventures with these hideous devil-fish. So fully do they recognise
+the possibility of danger, that they rarely go out alone to dive
+for these, or for clam-shells.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The latter have been known to close suddenly, and hold the
+invader prisoner till he or she was drowned; and the octopii have
+an unpleasant knack of throwing their arms so as to enfold an
+enemy, who vainly struggles to extricate himself from their hateful
+clasp: his arms are held powerless, and sometimes the hideous
+creature wraps itself round his head, so that death is inevitable
+unless haply his comrade comes to the rescue.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These fishers know the value of pouring oil on the waters as
+well as the poachers on our own Scottish rivers, or the oyster-fishers
+at Gibraltar and the Mediterranean generally, so they
+invariably carry in their canoes a measure of cocoa-nut oil. By
+sprinkling a few drops on the surface of the water, it becomes so
+perfectly smooth that they can see right down through its crystal
+depths, and detect the exact position of the creatures below. So,
+when a diver remains under water longer than usual, his friend in
+the canoe thus clears the surface, and, peering into the depths,
+ascertains what is going on, and, if need be, dives to the rescue.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course these are not the only dangers encountered by the
+fishers. There is the ever-abiding dread of sharks, especially
+the awful white shark, which grows to about thirty feet in length,
+and is so fearless that it is frequently known to attack canoes and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>drag its victims into the water, either by seizing some carelessly
+outstretched limb or by overturning the canoe. It is a hideous
+animal, with gigantic mouth and with broad serrated teeth. I saw
+an enormous specimen hanging from the bows of a vessel which
+was lying at anchor in the harbour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Even the small lagoon shark is not a pleasant fellow-swimmer,
+though it rarely exceeds six feet in length. It ventures into very
+shallow water, but makes its home in caves in the coral, in company
+with its kinsman. In all these isles it is considered good food;
+and in many of the groups (notably the New Hebrides and the
+Hervey Isles) the bold fishermen actually dive into the shark-caverns,
+contrive to pass a slip-knot round the tail of one of the
+sleepers, and instantly rise to the surface, when their companions
+haul the ugly monster, tail first, into the canoe, hitting him on the
+head with all possible speed. You can quite understand that this
+sort of fishing is by no means child’s-play. Sometimes, when a
+diver has entered a cave, a shark will move so as to prevent his
+exit, and then his only chance of ever returning to the surface lies
+in the skill with which he can tickle or stroke the monster, so as
+to induce it to move aside. Of course he only dares to do this if
+the creature’s tail is towards him. Should it have turned the
+other way, his fate is almost inevitably sealed, as the slightest
+movement on his part would reveal his presence and consign him
+to the shark’s maw; and on the other hand, though he is himself
+wellnigh amphibious, a delay of a few seconds must cost his life.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>One of the most unpleasant inmates of these waters is the
+stingaree or sting-ray, which is a large flat fish, the spine of which
+is prolonged to a sharp, barbed point, serrated on both sides. The
+swimmer who unluckily comes in contact with this weapon receives
+a dangerous wound, as the point probably breaks into his flesh,
+and works its way inward with every breath he draws.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Even the globe-fish is an uncomfortable neighbour. It is the
+hedgehog of the sea, covered with sharp horny spikes. It possesses
+the curious faculty of filling itself with air till it becomes a perfect
+ball, of the consistency of oiled parchment. Verily, those denizens
+of the deep are strange!</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span><i>Tuesday, 30th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning, after a pleasant breakfast with Mrs Brander, M.
+Vernier called for me in his pony-phaeton, and we drove to visit
+Queen Pomare’s tomb, or rather the house in which the royal dead
+of Tahiti are laid, and left for a while, till only bones and dust
+remain. Then a specially appointed official goes at dead of night
+and secretly carries the remains to some place—probably a cave
+in the mountains—where they are safely buried; only a very
+few trusted old adherents being allowed to know where they are
+laid. The mausoleum is a hideous little house, standing on a bare
+grass lawn by the sea. Till recently it was surrounded by a fine
+old grove of sacred casuarina trees; but one unlucky day Ariiaue
+was short of money (cruel report says of brandy!), and he actually
+sold the venerated trees to some Goth, who cut them for common
+timber.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I fancy that the jealous mystery which enshrouds the final burial
+of royal bones may be traced to lingering traditions of witchcraft,
+or some kindred superstition connected with the ancient system
+of <i>taboo</i>, which prevailed throughout Polynesia, and entailed divers
+diseases, and even death, on those who rashly tampered with things
+belonging to high chiefs. The other day a man walked past this
+door carrying a bunch of roses. Mrs Green was going to take one,
+when a half-caste Tahitian cried out, “Oh, take care! they were
+gathered in the garden of ——,” naming some one related to the
+royal family. I then learnt that to take anything belonging to
+royalty, or to wear a garment that has been worn by any of
+them, or even to lie on their bed, or rest the head on their pillow,
+is supposed to produce king’s evil. So implicit is this belief
+among the older generation, that Queen Pomare always made up
+bundles of her old clothes and sent them to sea to be sunk outside
+the reef.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The cure for any person supposed to have incurred danger in
+this manner savours of the celebrated prescription in hydrophobia,
+“Swallow a hair of the dog that bit you.” The old queen was
+greatly attached to one of Mrs Green’s little boys, whom, after the
+curious fashion of this country, she called her adopted son, giving
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>him a Tahitian name, by which alone he was known to the natives.
+One day, after the boy had been much with the queen, a suspicious-looking
+spot broke out on his cheek, and the native attendants
+begged Mrs Green to go at once to the queen and ask her to take
+the child into bed with her, and cover him up, which would avert
+all danger.<a id='r48'></a><a href='#f48' class='c017'><sup>[48]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This afternoon, for the first time since I landed, I have seen a
+centipede—not one, but many, which were lying quietly hidden
+beneath a mass of decaying fronds of the cocoa-palm. We put one
+in a bottle; but though a large specimen for the Pacific, it is barely
+six inches in length. These isles of the blest enjoy a perfect immunity
+from all venomous creatures, with this one exception; and
+it is a very innocent creature compared with the centipedes of other
+lands, especially of Africa and South America. Unfortunately the
+latter have lately been carried by foreign ships to some of the Leeward
+Isles, and in the same manner scorpions have been brought to
+Tahiti—a very unfortunate introduction. The centipedes, small as
+they are, can give an agonising bite, which, however, is not actually
+dangerous to human beings. They are chiefly fatal to poultry,
+especially turkeys, which swallow them in mistake for worms, and
+invariably die soon afterwards.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>These horrid creatures are highly phosphorescent, and leave a
+trail of light as they move at night. If crushed, they emit a glow
+of light, and hence were in olden days reverenced as an incarnation
+of divinity; and Veri, the centipede-god, was worshipped at
+Mangai, in the Hervey Isles, where a huge banyan-tree overshadowed
+his <i>marae</i>, among the grey rocks, and where to this day
+some say that gigantic centipedes keep guard over the hidden treasures
+of the tribe of Teipe, formerly their devout worshippers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Speaking of phosphorescent things, did I ever tell you about the
+curious luminous fungi which are found in the mountains of Fiji?
+They gleam with a pale weird blue light, and the natives occasionally
+play tricks at the expense of their superstitious neighbours,
+suggestive of the turnip-ghosts of our own foolish young days.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another new experience of this afternoon has been tasting the
+far-famed orange-rum, which is supposed to have such a deteriorating
+effect on those addicted to it. It is weak, insipid stuff, like
+mawkish vinegar. I should be very sorry to drink a wine-glassful
+of it, but I should think a bucketful would scarcely have any effect
+on the head, however seriously it might disturb other organs. I am
+certain it is weaker than the cider of which English haymakers
+drink twenty large mugs in a day with impunity.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But I am told that long before the introduction of oranges, and
+the consequent invention of orange-rum, the Tahitians had been
+taught by the Hawaiians how to distil an intoxicating spirit from
+the root of the <i>ti</i> shrub,<a id='r49'></a><a href='#f49' class='c017'><sup>[49]</sup></a> which is highly saccharine, and is generally
+baked, and made into puddings.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They invented a still of the rudest construction. For the boiler
+they hollowed a lump of rock, and this they covered with an unwieldy
+wooden cover, the rude stump of a tree, into which was
+inserted a long bamboo, which rested in a trough of cold water,
+and conveyed the distilled spirit into a gourd. This ponderous
+boiler was set on two layers of stones, leaving a space for a fire, and
+was then filled with the baked <i>ti</i> root, which had been soaked till
+fermentation had commenced. Then ensued wild orgies, when all
+the people of the district gave themselves up to unbridled licentiousness;
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>and having drunk till they were mad, generally ended
+by quarrelling, so that it was not an uncommon thing to find the
+remains of one of these rude stills overturned and scattered on the
+ground, and around them the corpses of those who had ended their
+drunken bout by a free fight, in which clubs and stone axes had
+proved efficient weapons.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The practice of this very unpleasant vice spread rapidly to other
+isles, and was one of the serious hindrances met with by the early
+missionaries. Thus, when Raiatea had for some time been looked
+upon as a model island, it only needed the arrival of a trading ship,
+and of a cask of spirits, to produce an outbreak on the part of King
+Tamatoa (not the present man), which was instantly followed by
+the mass of the people, who in their reawakened craving for spirits
+prepared about twenty stills, all of which were in full operation,
+when Mr Williams, returning after a short absence, found the island
+which he had left so orderly and flourishing, all given up to mad
+drunkenness.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Having had their bout, the people were naturally rather ashamed
+of themselves, remembering how nobly their grand old chief, the
+original Tamatoa, Queen Pomare’s grandfather, had kept his vow
+of temperance during the fifteen years he lived after becoming a
+Christian. Previous to that time he too had been a heavy drinker,
+and being a man of gigantic strength, and six feet eleven inches in
+height, he was not pleasant company when drunk. So it was a
+happy hour in which he vowed never again to touch any intoxicating
+liquor, and became the most constant attendant at school and
+chapel.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When his favourite daughter Maikara, the governess of Huahine,
+heard of this outbreak in Raiatea, she went over, with some of her
+trusted officers, to help the orderly remnant in the isle to carry out
+the laws for the destruction of all stills; and though in some
+districts they met with considerable opposition, they effected their
+purpose thoroughly. Not long afterwards a temperance society was
+formed, which seems to have worked satisfactorily on the whole,
+though of course individuals sometimes succumb to the temptations
+so cruelly offered by foreign ships.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>Evidently drunkenness is no longer admired as a kingly attribute,
+for the Raiateans banished the present Tamatoa, who was formerly
+their king, because of his disagreeable habit of taking pot-shots at
+his subjects when he was very far gone. I am happy to say he
+does not now indulge in this obnoxious practice, which would be
+particularly dangerous to us, as he lives in the next house, and
+frequently entertains us with wild rollicking songs, which, however,
+are not nearly so hateful as his habit of beating a large drum for
+several hours at a time! an entertainment which must be particularly
+trying to his sweet gentle wife, the charming Moë, concerning
+whom even the Frenchmen always speak with unbounded respect,
+and whose faithful love to her jovial but very trying spouse has
+continued unshaken, notwithstanding all the homage of one sort
+or another with which she has been loaded, including that of the
+author of ‘South Sea Bubbles.’</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Just now every one is anxious about her, for she is daily expecting
+a small addition to her family, and is exceedingly ill with
+influenza—a very violent form of which has recently broken out,
+severely affecting lungs and throat. It is a real epidemic. A number
+of people have died from it, and such a multitude are suffering,
+that the town seems <i>morne</i> and sad. Even the band is deserted
+and the church is empty. Tamatoa himself, and the queen’s two
+sisters, Titaua Brander and Moetia Attwater, are among the sufferers.
+Mrs Miller and her grown-up sons, Mme. Fayzeau and her
+children, and all Mrs Green’s children, are really very ill—high
+fever accompanied by utter prostration of strength being among the
+symptoms.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is a most extraordinary fact that on every one of the Polynesian
+groups the natives declare that influenza was never known
+till white men came; and now it is one of the regular scourges of
+the Pacific, returning almost every year in a greater or less degree,
+but occasionally proving very severe and fatal, especially to old folk.
+It is generally preceded by westerly or southerly winds, and passes
+off as the steady trade-winds set in bringing fine settled weather.
+It first appeared in Samoa in 1830, just when the first missionaries
+Williams and Barff touched the group, and was of course attributed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>to their machinations. In the New Hebrides, where it proved a
+very serious scourge, it led to the murder of many teachers, who
+(as I think I have already told you) were considered to be the
+disease-makers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Among those now suffering from it, is dear old Mrs Simpson,
+the “mother of missions” in these parts, of whose “pure Biblical
+English” Lord Pembroke spoke so admiringly. She is now on a
+visit to Mrs Brander, to whom she has been like a second mother.
+There I have frequently met her, and we have become great
+friends. She is planning that I am to visit her daughter, Mme.
+Valles, who is married to a retired French officer, and has a plantation
+on Moorea. I hope to see it in the course of a few days.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 31st Oct.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Alas! the influenza has done its work quickly. Only yesterday
+morning I was breakfasting with Mrs Brander on my return from a
+lovely early ride with Narii, up the Fautawa valley; Mrs Simpson
+was unable to appear, and afterwards a messenger came to tell Mr
+Green that she was very ill. In the night I was wakened by a
+man with a lantern standing at my open window; he brought tidings
+of her death.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is a most trying moment, for this real sorrow occurs just when
+all those who were most devoted to the clever, good, and loving old
+lady, are compelled from their position to take a leading part in
+the festivities for the royal reception in Moorea. Mrs Brander, as
+chiefess of the isle, has to make every sort of festal preparation—and
+now, in addition to these, she has to make all arrangements
+for the funeral of her loved old friend, whose body will be carried
+to Moorea to-morrow on board the Seignelay. It will be a terrible
+shock for poor Mme. Valles, who to-day is preparing for all the gay
+doings of to-morrow, little dreaming that besides all the expected
+friends, whose visit would have been such a delight, <i>one</i> will return
+silent—never more to leave the isle where her lips first taught the
+words of life to many....</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We start for Moorea to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVI.<br> <span class='c009'>THE ROYAL PROGRESS ROUND MOOREA—THE SEIGNELAY STARTS FOR THE MARQUESAS AND PAUMOTUS—INDECISION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Rev. James Green, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Sunday, 4th Nov.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='sc'>Dearest Nell</span>,—All the others have gone off to the Tahitian
+church. As I find, from long experience, that attending service in
+an unknown tongue tends to produce habits of the strictest inattention,
+I thought I might as well stay at home and have a talk with
+you. We returned from Moorea yesterday, and I am still very
+tired. This expedition has been very fatiguing, and somewhat
+bewildering, from the manner in which everything was hurried;
+there was really no time to enjoy anything; it was all a rush to get
+over the ground.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For some reason unknown, the admiral determined to accomplish
+the grand round in two days, which did not allow of a halt at half
+the districts. This was the more tantalising as the island is indescribably
+lovely, and I longed to linger at every point. The day
+of our start was equally hurried, and the people had received such
+very short notice, that they were quite unprepared for the royal
+visit, and somewhat disconcerted in consequence. And then the
+combination of mourning with ceremonial rejoicing was a very distressing
+element.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On Thursday morning one of the Seignelay boats came here to
+take me on board at 7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, and soon afterwards the king and queen
+arrived, escorted by the admiral and many officers of La Magicienne.
+Mrs Brander and all her family party soon followed. But our
+wonted gaiety was altogether lacking, for there was a solemn presence
+in our midst, and we all knew that beneath the Union-jack,
+which was spread as a pall, lay the coffin containing the remains of
+one very dear to many in these isles. Her husband was buried on
+Moorea, near the spot where his daughter now lives; and now the
+two faithful workers have been laid side by side in this far country</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>Two hours steaming brought us to Vaianae Bay, whence we
+rowed ashore to Afareaitu, a distance of about two miles. Thence
+the boats returned to the Seignelay, which proceeded to the other
+side of the isle to find good anchorage.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On landing, we were received by the head men, in very fine
+<i>tiputas</i> (the much-decorated upper garment of native cloth). These
+they presented to the admiral and the king. But our arrival was
+so premature, that the reception was on a small scale—the people
+not having had time to assemble. After breakfast I secured a rapid
+outline of the strange beautiful hills, then we had to hurry away, in
+excellent boats, the property of Tahitians.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As we rowed along inside the reef, each turn revealed new
+marvels of that most lovely coast, which combines the softest
+beauties of rich foliage with the most weird grandeur of mountain
+gloom. The island is by far the most wonderful I have ever seen.
+Just one confused mass of basaltic crags and pinnacles, lofty ridges,
+so narrow that here and there where some part has broken away
+you can see the sky through an opening like the eye of a needle.
+Nature seems to have here built up gigantic rock-fortresses, mighty
+bastions and towers which reach up into heaven; pyramids, before
+which those of Gizeh would appear as pigmies, and minarets such
+as the builders of the Kootub never dreamt of. It is as though
+some huge mountain of rock had been rent asunder, and its fragments
+left standing upright in stupendous splinters. Some one
+has unpleasantly compared these to asses’ ears, and I am fain to
+confess that the description is good, so far as outline is concerned.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I had caught glimpses of some of these amazing stone needles
+and towers as we passed Moorea on the first morning, but then
+they only appeared mysteriously through the drifting vapours,
+which idealise and magnify the most commonplace crags. Now
+there were no mists, and the huge pinnacles stood out sharp and
+clear against a cloudless sky, while far below them the riven rocks
+lay seamed by narrow chasms—dark sunless ravines, moist with
+the spray of many waterfalls, and rich with all green things that
+love warm misty shade.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I believe that when reduced to figures, the mountains of Moorea
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>are found to average only half the height of those in Tahiti, the
+latter rising to upwards of 7000 feet, while the highest peak of
+Moorea, Afareaitu, is only 3976 feet. But the strangely varied
+forms of the latter are so remarkable, that a few thousand feet
+more or less seem a matter of indifference.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I did long to crave a few moments’ halt from time to time, to
+secure ever so slight an outline of some specially striking scene,
+but of course I dared not suggest it, as we were evidently bound
+to “make good time” (that crime in travelling, which so many
+mistake for a virtue). The result was, that we reached Haapiti at
+2 <span class='fss'>P.M.</span> Mrs Brander, who had hurried on at once to make her
+preparations, had counted on our not arriving till four at the
+earliest, so of course nothing was ready.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The admiral went to examine schools, and I lost no time in
+settling down to a large sketch of the beautiful and fairy-like
+scene—the grand mountain amphitheatre of stupendous crags and
+precipices, a middle distance of richest foliage, and in the foreground,
+on a lawn of greenest turf, the pretty temporary building
+of palm and bamboo, erected for the banquet. The interior was
+lined with tree-ferns and bunches of rosy oleander, and festooned
+with many hundred yards of deep fringe made of hybiscus fibre.
+The thatch was entirely composed of the long glossy fronds of
+birds’-nest fern,<a id='r50'></a><a href='#f50' class='c017'><sup>[50]</sup></a> which, being tough and leathery, make a good
+permanent thatch, and one which lasts much longer than banana-leaves,
+though, of course, it is more troublesome to arrange in the
+first instance. It seems too bad to sacrifice such an incredible
+number of these beautiful plants. The only consolation is, that
+they grow in places so inaccessible that no human eye ever beholds
+them, save that of the goat-like cragsman who explores the deep
+ravines in search of the wild <i>faees</i>, which constitute the principal
+article of food on these isles.</p>
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/p2282_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>A ROYAL RECEPTION.  HAAPITI.  ISLE MOOREA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Shortly before sunset all the people of the district assembled,
+each with a piece of yellow native cloth thrown over their black
+dresses like a shawl, to symbolise joy in sorrow. They formed an
+immense procession, headed by Mrs Brander as high chiefess. She
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>was dressed entirely in black, only relieved by a most becoming
+crown of glossy white arrowroot, with a plume of snowy <i>reva-reva</i>.
+Immediately after her followed the gentlemen of her family, wearing
+very beautiful <i>tiputas</i> of bread-fruit bark cloth, covered with
+ornaments and flowers made of arrowroot and bamboo fibre, and all
+fringed with the delicate <i>reva-reva</i>. They made an address and
+sang the <i>himènes</i> of welcome which should have greeted the
+royalties on their landing. Then the chiefs presented their
+beautiful garments to the principal persons present, and all the
+people laid their yellow scarves and pretty hats at their feet.
+One of the <i>tiputas</i> was intended for me, but as I sat apart to see
+the general picture, it was unfortunately given to some one else;
+but Mrs Brander reserved for me a most delicate hand-screen of the
+finest fibre.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Then followed a great dinner, admirable in every respect, the
+pretty booth being illuminated by a multitude of Chinese lanterns;
+and the <i>himène</i> singing, which was continued at intervals all the
+evening, was particularly good. The sleeping arrangements were
+less satisfactory, there having been no time to make preparations
+for so large a party; so my hostess had only reserved one tiny
+room for herself, two children, two native women, and me. It
+was a foreign house, with windows. These were tightly closed,
+and a bright lamp kept burning all night,—both circumstances
+fatal to all chance of sleep,—so I preferred a shake-down in the
+sitting-room. Unfortunately, my experience of the luxuries of
+Tahiti had induced me to travel without my own mosquito-net;
+and the attacks of these persistent foes, combined with the perpetual
+movement of locomotive women, incessantly opening the
+door at my head and admitting a stream of bright light, effectually
+banished all hope of sleep. It was a night of feverish unrest,—a
+bad preparation for the morrow.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Again came a hurried morning start in good native boats,—the
+coast, beautiful as that of yesterday. We had a strong wind and
+tide against us, and made slow progress. After a severe pull of
+three hours, we stopped at a point where the rowers landed to rest
+and get cocoa-nuts; but hordes of mosquitoes attacked and routed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>us, even following us on our way. Finally we landed, and walked
+the last two miles to Papetoai, on Opunohu Bay, where the Seignelay
+anchored last night.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Simpson’s body was brought ashore this morning, and as
+the people were all too much fussed to mourn their old friend and
+clerical mother (at least externally), the coffin was carried to the
+church by French sailors; and they and their officers were the only
+persons present, besides the immediate relations, at a sort of preliminary
+service held by M. Brun, the Protestant pastor.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Breakfast, chiefly consisting of omelets which had been cooked
+at 7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, was not served till noon; and as I had only succeeded in
+securing a bit of biscuit before starting, I was so famished that one
+of the officers went to forage on my account, and returned in
+triumph with a yard of bread! This proved so satisfying, that,
+craving permission to escape from the formal meal, I returned on
+board with my old shipmates, and secured a careful drawing of the
+wonderfully lovely mountains ere the rest of the party came on
+board. One young sailor came to great grief in trying to climb a
+cocoa-nut tree—an operation which appears very easy to the expert
+islanders, but sorely puzzles a foreigner. This poor lad fell from a
+considerable height, breaking his arm and severely injuring his
+head. So the kind doctor had his hands full, and no time to enjoy
+the beautiful scenery.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We steamed round to Pao Pao, commonly known as Cook’s Bay,
+which is also very fine. Here we left the steamer, and, taking to
+the boats, rowed four miles to Tiaia, which is a pretty village by
+the sea. On one side of it there is a splendid grove of glossy-leaved
+<i>tamanu</i> trees, and a few fine old iron-wood trees—the
+casuarina—all that now remains of what was once a very sacred
+grove surrounding the ancient <i>marae</i>. Now the Christian church
+occupies the site where formerly human sacrifices were offered to
+the cruel gods. At a distance of about two miles from this village
+there is a brackish lake—Lake Temae—about a mile in length.
+It contains good fish, and many wild duck haunt its sedgy and
+very muddy shores. Under the impression that it was very much
+nearer, I joined the exploring party. We had to make a <i>détour</i> of
+some length, and found no beauty to compensate for a very fatiguing
+walk of upwards of four miles, which, combined with that of the
+morning, quite finished me. I could not even sit up for the evening
+<i>himènes</i>, which was a matter of real regret, as the singers here
+are considered the very best in the group. Several of the women
+have very fine falsetto voices.</p>
+
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/p2301_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>PAO PAO, OR COOK’S BAY.  ISLE MOOREA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>To my great delight, in apportioning our quarters, M. Hardouin,
+A.D.C., awarded me a tiny house all to myself—the owners kept
+only the outer room; and when they went off to join the <i>himènes</i>
+they locked the door to keep their charge safe. Happily one of
+my friends on the Seignelay had lent me a mosquito-net, so I slept
+the blessed, dreamless sleep of the weary.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the morning at 6 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span>, as I was dressing leisurely for 7 o’clock
+coffee, Queen Marau rushed in to say the admiral was all ready for
+a 6 o’clock start. Thereupon followed a horrid hurry-scurry to get
+ready, and a four miles’ row back to the vessel. At 7.30 she was
+under way, and at 10 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> we were at anchor in Papeete harbour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Altogether this has been a most tantalising expedition, an unsatisfactory
+hurrying over scenes of surpassing beauty. Mrs Brander
+says that if I will stay some time longer in Tahiti she will take
+me back there and let me pasture at leisure in that artists’ paradise.
+Fain would I linger,—indeed all manner of delightful ploys are
+proposed, but all involve time, and I have promised to meet Lady
+Gordon at Christmas, either at Auckland or Sydney, according to
+what I hear at Honolulu, so I must not lose the chance of the first
+vessel to the Sandwich Isles.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Tuesday, 6th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>It has been decided that one of Mrs Brander’s vessels, the Maramma
+(<i>i.e.</i>, the Moon), is to start for Honolulu on Saturday, so
+that settles the time of my departure from Tahiti. It is also
+announced that on Thursday the Seignelay is to be sent off to
+the Marquesas, to convey a force of gendarmes to inquire into
+some recent outbreaks of cannibalism. Mrs Brander has been
+most kindly renewing her invitation to me to stay with her till
+the next trip of the Maramma to Honolulu—a matter of two
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>months! It is most tempting, but I feel bound to go. At the
+band to-night, Mr Darsie, manager of the <i>Maison Brandère</i>, expressed
+his astonishment that I should lose such a chance of seeing
+the Marquesas and the Paumotus, adding that the manager of the
+business for those groups was going to take the trip, and would
+enable me to see everything to the greatest advantage, and the ship
+is to return here in a fortnight. Certainly it would be quite delightful,
+but what <i>is</i> the use of suggesting the impossible?</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 7th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Early this morning we went on board the Maramma to see the
+cabin which Mrs Brander has kindly reserved for me—the best in
+the ship. It made me sad to look at it and to think that it is to
+carry me away for ever from this supremely lovely South Sea paradise.
+All to-day we have had a succession of visits from my kind
+friends of the Seignelay, to urge my giving up Honolulu in favour
+of Les Marquises, or, if that could not be, to <i>faire les adieux</i>. At
+the very last came M. de Gironde, who is always my good genius,
+to try and prove that it was not too late to change my mind, and
+that his cabin was at my disposal as before. Surely there never
+was a ship full of such kind people. Of course it would be quite
+delightful to go and see another lot of beautiful isles; but after all,
+I suppose they are very much like these, and my brain already
+feels overcrowded with pictures, each lovelier than the last. So,
+for every reason, it seems best to stand true to my tryst, and be
+content with a run to the volcanoes, and then drop down to the
+comparatively commonplace scenes of Australia or New Zealand.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This has been quite a sad day of farewells. We dined with the
+Verniers and afterwards went to the admiral’s reception—a very
+pretty and animated dance.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Thursday, 8th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>At nine this morning the Seignelay steamed close past our
+windows, and great was the farewell waving of hats and handkerchiefs.
+I grieve to part from the many kind companions of so
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span>many pleasant days (and of sad ones too); and I would fain be
+going on with the good ship now, for I sorely regret the approaching
+end of my travels in these parts.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-night we dined at Mrs Brander’s. The party included a
+large number of officers from the Magicienne. It was a farewell
+entertainment, as Mrs Brander’s son Aleck and Mr Darsie both go
+to Honolulu in the Maramma (the latter <i>en route</i> to England).
+They too are going to see the volcanoes; but if they are rightly
+informed concerning the trips of the little Hawaiian steamer, I
+begin to have very grave doubts of the possibility of my visiting
+the southern isles at all, if I attempt to carry out my programme,
+even supposing we have a fair wind and quick passage to Honolulu,
+which is more than doubtful.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Friday, 9th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>A wretched sleepless night, worrying over plans. Difficulties
+always do exaggerate themselves so absurdly if one lies awake.
+Out at daybreak to get a sketch from the shore. It is all working
+against time, and my heap of unfinished drawings is a serious
+nightmare. I have been struggling to get several duplicate
+sketches finished for various friends, and I feel like a graphic
+barrel-organ—an unreasoning machine for the multiplication of
+drawings; and the ever-recurring thought arises, Why not stay
+and have the delight of working from nature, as the kind friends
+here advise, when after all it is more than probable that the
+Christmas tryst will fall through? But anyhow, I have missed
+the chance of Les Marquises, and it would seem too silly to change
+my mind now.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander came to-day to say good-bye, but added emphatically,
+“You’re not gone yet, however!” There’s no doubt that
+her invitation to stay on is quite <i>bonâ fide</i>; but for two months
+at least! What a visitation to inflict on any one!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Miller drove me to call on the Bishop of Axièri, Monseigneur
+Tepano Janssen, who is most kind and courteous. He showed
+us all over his grounds, which are literally a garden of acclimatisation,
+so numerous are the useful plants of other lands which he
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>is endeavouring to introduce. It is greatly due to his care that
+the mangoes of Tahiti have been brought to such perfection. The
+conversation turned on many subjects of interest. Amongst other
+things, speaking of the effect of many mingled sounds, he told us
+of the deafening noise produced by the cries of sea-birds on some
+of the isles where he has touched, on one of which he witnessed a
+strange instance of combined action by myriads of sea-birds and
+herons; the former, diving simultaneously, produced a noise like a
+thunder-clap as they struck the water. The dignified herons profited
+by their neighbours’ work, and waited on the shore ready to
+catch the startled fish as they fled affrighted from the divers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This evening the admiral invited Mrs Miller, Madame Fayzeau,
+and myself, to dine on board La Magicienne. She is a very fine
+old-fashioned frigate, with vast accommodation, splendid broad
+decks of great length. The admiral has a large dining-room, and
+a sitting-room the size of an average drawing-room, with four large
+square windows opening into a gallery round the stern—a charming
+lounge in fine weather. Commandant Beïque has rooms
+equally pretty, on the same level, each with a large square window
+(I cannot call them ports). They are so high above the water that
+they scarcely ever have to be closed—a true boon in the tropics.
+I never saw so roomy a ship. With all her big guns, five hundred
+sailors, and thirty officers, there was no symptom of crowding.
+Amongst the officers are two belonging to the Peruvian navy, who
+have come to study the French system of navigation. One of
+these is remarkable for his diminutive size and extraordinary
+strength; the biggest men in the ship cannot wrestle with him,
+nor fight him (in sport).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After dinner we adjourned to Government House grounds to
+hear the band play, as usual; then all walked back by the shore
+to the British consulate, for a farewell evening, and finished it here
+in this sweet homelike nest. I do grieve that it should be the
+last evening, the more so as I am beginning to believe that what
+all my friends here agree in saying must be true—namely, that
+when I made my vague calculation of reaching Sydney for Christmas,
+it was on the principle of Jules Verne’s ‘Round the World
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>in Eighty Days.’ They say that to attempt fitting the Sandwich
+Isles volcanoes into the time is preposterous folly. I think they
+are right, but it is too late to change now. What further concerns
+me is the thought, which had not previously presented itself, that
+very likely, after all this pushing and scrambling, and spoiling
+everything by useless hurry, Lady Gordon may have given up
+the idea, and may stay quietly in Fiji till she is obliged to take
+the children direct to England,<a id='r51'></a><a href='#f51' class='c017'><sup>[51]</sup></a> and I may never know this till I
+reach Sydney.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Saturday, 10th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another weary night—perplexing and conflicting suggestions—the
+horrid feeling of being disloyal to a tryst, yet the certainty that
+nowhere else shall I find such beauty as I am leaving. Those unsketched
+dolomites of Moorea—those ferny ravines all unexplored—those
+glorious valleys of bread-fruit—the <i>himènes</i> that I shall
+never hear again! And every one agrees in telling me that the
+Hawaiian Isles are not to compare with these in beauty,—that the
+hills are comparatively shapeless, the foliage poor, the bread-fruit
+sickly and blighted, the cocoa-palms mere ghosts of their southern
+relations, and the mangoes miserable fruits, not worthy to bear
+the same name as the luscious mangoes of Tahiti. They tell me,
+too, that the people are much less attractive; that they have taken
+on so much blunt civilisation, that they have lost whatever native
+grace they may have once possessed. Even the same garment—the
+flowing <i>sacque</i>—is there worn so short and full that it is
+scarcely to be recognised, and instead of floating drapery it becomes
+a mere dress.<a id='r52'></a><a href='#f52' class='c017'><sup>[52]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Well, I must now begin my packing. There will be time
+enough for writing before we reach Honolulu.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>Saturday Afternoon</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Jubilate! Jubilate! The Maramma is to start in an hour, but
+will leave me to revel in South Sea loveliness till her next trip.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span>This morning, just as I was putting the finishing touches to my
+packing—I must confess very much <i>contre-cœur</i>, and quite in the
+vein of Eve’s lamentation, “Must I leave thee, Paradise?”—up
+drove pretty Queen Marau and her handsome sister Moetia, who
+carried the position by assault,—vowed it was not too late to change
+a foolish plan; so leaving Moetia with her cousin Moë, Marau
+made me jump into her pony-phaeton and drove me straight off to
+Fautawa, where her sister Titaua, Mrs Brander, was giving a great
+entertainment to all her <i>employés</i>, previous to her son’s departure
+for Honolulu. Then and there she made me recant all my previous
+protestations and refusals of her most hospitable invitations, and
+in two seconds all was settled. I am to be her guest till the Maramma
+returns, and is again sent to Honolulu.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now that it is all settled, I feel quite satisfied and reprieved;
+so instead of a long letter written on board ship, I must despatch
+this as it is. We are just hurrying to the wharf to say good-bye to
+our friends, and then I look forward to a grand night’s rest, for I
+am thoroughly tired.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have been hoping against hope that a letter might reach me
+here, <i>viâ</i> New Zealand; but the schooner thence is about a month
+overdue, and it is feared she has gone on a reef. Good-bye.—Your
+loving sister.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVII.<br> <span class='c009'>VAIN REGRETS—SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MARQUESAS AND THE PAUMOTU GROUPS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>November 11th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am certainly very glad that my good friends here supplied the
+moral courage which I failed to find, and so enabled me to repent
+at the eleventh hour. I do rejoice in the sense of repose, knowing
+that for at least two months I may now explore the many scenes of
+enchantment which lie on every side, without a thought of hurry.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span>Yet even this joy is not unmixed. I do find it very hard to be
+truly philosophical, and not to cry over spilt milk, when I think
+of the delightful cruise to the Marquesas and Paumotus, which
+would so admirably have filled up this first fortnight, had I only
+been able to decide three days earlier.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But it was not till the hospitable ship had sailed, that I found
+leisure soberly to think the matter over, and to realise how very
+rare and precious a chance I had so idiotically thrown away.
+When your eyes are satiated with grand scenery, and each lovely
+group of isles seems only to differ from the last in its degree of
+special beauty, you are apt to think that really you have seen
+enough, and may as well pause and be satisfied with all the
+exquisite pictures which crowd before your memory. So, when
+these most kind friends urged me to accompany them on this expedition,
+I was so absorbed in working up some of the innumerable
+sketches made on the last trip, that I never took time to think out
+the subject in all its bearings, and to see how impossible it would
+be for me to reach Honolulu by sailing-ship, see all the wonders of
+the Sandwich Isles, and then return to New Zealand or Sydney
+before Christmas, as I had proposed doing.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Neither did I at all realise how very few travellers have ever
+seen the Marquesas, and how very little is known about them by
+the general public, beyond the bare facts of their having been discovered
+by the Spaniards in 1595, and by them named after the
+Marquesas de Mendoza, the Viceroy of Peru.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They then seem to have been forgotten till about the year 1777,
+when they were visited by Captain Cook, who has recorded his
+admiration of their loveliness, and declared that the inhabitants
+were the finest race he had seen, “in fine shape and regular
+features perhaps surpassing all other nations,” “as fair as some
+Europeans, and much tattooed.” He found fine harbours, from
+twenty to thirty fathoms deep, close inshore, with clear sandy
+bottom; good store of wood and water; and at first the natives
+seemed inclined to receive the strangers kindly, but became less
+cordial on further acquaintance.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Soon afterwards the London Mission endeavoured to establish a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span>station in the group, but found the people such savage cannibals,
+that the position was untenable, and they were forced to abandon
+it. From that time forward we have only an occasional record of
+some American man-of-war having touched there, invariably confirming
+Cook’s account of the beauty of the people and of the
+isles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In 1837 the French sent out an exploring expedition commanded
+by D’Urville, whose somewhat remarkable official orders were,
+“<i>d’apprivoiser les hommes, et de rendre les femmes un peu plus
+sauvages!</i>”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The result of his report was, that the French decided on establishing
+themselves in the Marquesas, the Society, and the Paumotu
+Isles. Accordingly, in 1842, an expedition sailed from Brest to
+effect this purpose, its destination being a secret known only to its
+commander. The Marquesas were selected as the best centre of
+operations. A squadron of four heavy frigates and three corvettes,
+commanded by Rear-Admiral Du Petit Thouars, accordingly astonished
+the natives by suddenly appearing in the lovely harbour of
+Taiohae, on the island of Nukuheva; and very soon these simple
+folk learned the full meaning of the gay tricoloured flags and bristling
+broadsides.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The ostensible pretext for this invasion was that of reinstating
+Mowanna, the friendly chief of Nukuheva, in what the French
+thought proper to assume as his ancestral right—namely, that of
+ruling over the whole group of twelve isles, each of which had
+hitherto considered itself as a distinct world, subdivided into
+many antagonistic kingdoms. However, a puppet-king was the pretext
+required, and Mowanna furnished it, and was rewarded with
+regal honours and a gorgeous military uniform, rich with gold
+lace and embroidery.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course he and his tribe of Nukuhevans were vastly delighted,
+perceiving that they had gained omnipotent allies; and when five
+hundred troops were landed in full uniform, and daily drilled by
+resplendent officers, their admiration knew no bounds. They recollected
+how, when in 1814, the U.S. frigate Essex, commanded
+by Captain Porter, had refitted at Nukuheva, she had lent them a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span>considerable force of sailors and marines, to assist their own body
+of 2000 men in attacking a neighbouring tribe. The latter had
+offered a desperate resistance, and repulsed the allied forces, who,
+however, consoled themselves by burning every village they could
+reach, thus giving the inhabitants good cause to hate the white
+men’s ships.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now, with the aid of these warlike French troops, the Nukuhevans
+thought themselves sure of victory, with the prospect of retaining
+the supremacy. But when fortifications were commenced, and the
+troops surrounded their camps with solid works of defence, making
+it evident that the occupation was to be a permanent one, a feeling
+of detestation, mingled with fear of the invaders, gradually increased,
+and was certainly not lessened by several sharp encounters, in one
+of which, 150 natives are said to have been slain. However, the
+reign of might prevailed, and the tricolour has floated over the
+Marquesas unchallenged from that time to the present.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This appropriation of the Marquesas was immediately followed
+by that of the Society Isles, whither the admiral proceeded in the
+Reine Blanche frigate, leaving the rest of the squadron at the
+Marquesas. He anchored in the harbour of Papeete, and sent a
+message to Queen Pomare to the effect that, unless she immediately
+agreed to pay somewhere about 30,000 dollars as an indemnity for
+alleged insults to the French flag, he would bombard the defenceless
+town.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The said insults were very much like those offered by the lamb
+to the wolf in the old fable, the pretext raked up being simply
+that Queen Pomare and all her people, having already become
+stanch Christians, according to the teaching of the London Mission,
+had positively refused to allow certain French priests to settle in
+the isles, and found a Roman Catholic Mission, with a view to
+proselytising. These proving obstinate in their determination to
+remain, had, with all due honour, been conveyed on board a vessel
+about to sail for some distant port, with a sensible recommendation
+to pursue their calling on some of the many isles which
+were still heathen.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French admiral now insisted that, in addition to paying the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span>indemnity demanded, the people of Tahiti should, at their own
+expense, erect a Roman Catholic church in every district where
+they had built one for their congregational worship.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The unhappy queen, terrified lest the arrogant Du Petit Thouars
+should commence bombarding her helpless capital, yet utterly
+incapable of complying with his unjust demands, fled by night in
+a canoe to the isle of Moorea, knowing that no decisive action
+could be taken in her absence. Her best friend and adviser
+throughout these troubles was the British consul, Mr Pritchard.
+The admiral, perceiving this, caused him to be arrested and imprisoned.
+After being kept for ten days in solitary confinement,
+he was put on board an English vessel out at sea, and forcibly
+sent away from the islands without a trial or investigation of any
+kind.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On his arrival in England the British Government naturally
+demanded an explanation of such proceedings. M. Guizot replied
+that the French authorities at Tahiti found they could make no
+progress there because of Mr Pritchard’s great influence with the
+queen—in other words, his determination, if possible, to see fair
+play. The French Government, therefore, approved the action of
+its officials, but promised to indemnify Mr Pritchard for what they
+themselves described as his illegal imprisonment and pecuniary
+losses. We have, however, Mr Pritchard’s own authority for the
+fact that, in the year 1880, he had never received one single <i>sou</i>
+of the promised indemnity; and England apparently considered it
+the part of wisdom, if not of honour, to let the subject drop.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So the French pirates (for certainly in all this matter they acted
+as such) compelled the poor queen and her chiefs to yield to their
+demands. Some, indeed, strove to make a brave stand, and drive
+the invaders from their shores; but what could these unarmed
+warriors do against artillery? They retreated to their mountain
+fastnesses, but French troops pursued them thither, built scientific
+forts, and remained masters of the position. The good, sensible
+queen, who had proved herself so wise a ruler of a happy and
+peaceful people up to this terrible November 1843, was now
+declared incompetent to govern. The French Protectorate was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span>established,<a id='r53'></a><a href='#f53' class='c017'><sup>[53]</sup></a> and the Reine Blanche having saluted the Protectorate
+flag, desired the queen and chiefs to do likewise—an order which
+they were unable to obey, till the admiral politely offered to lend
+the necessary gunpowder! Thus was this buccaneering expedition
+carried out, and France established as ruler in the three groups—the
+Marquesas, the Paumotus, and the Society Isles.<a id='r54'></a><a href='#f54' class='c017'><sup>[54]</sup></a> It was a
+South Sea version of</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold,</div>
+      <div class='line'>And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold;”—</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c019'>but in this case the lamb found no deliverer.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span>This bare historical outline was literally all I knew about the
+Marquesas Isles, and I doubt whether you or any one else in
+England knows much more.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now that through my ignorance I have thrown away such a
+chance of visiting them, and also the Paumotus, I am told on all
+sides that they are the loveliest group in the Pacific, ideal in their
+beauty—embodied poems; and so I am fuming over my own folly,
+and telling myself that a traveller who could let slip such a golden
+opportunity must have reached second childhood, and is no longer
+fit to wander at large. I try to be philosophical, and not fret over
+the irrevocable; but of all the scattered leaves that I have yet
+suffered to float past me on that “stream that never returneth,”
+none has aggravated me so sorely as this. I am assured on all
+hands that I should have received a genial welcome from the
+French governor and Madame —— and their little society, and
+that the expedition would have been in every respect exceptionally
+delightful.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As it is, I can only gather a few faint visions of the lovely isles
+by stringing together such particulars as I can learn respecting
+them. To begin with, “Les isles Marquises” comprise twelve
+volcanic isles, thrown up in wildly irregular black crags, the
+central range of the larger isles towering to a height of 5000 feet,
+while in many places inaccessible crags rise perpendicular from the
+sea, but are so exquisitely draped with parasitic plants as to resemble
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>a succession of green waterfalls. Not that true waterfalls
+are lacking. On the contrary, the mountains are furrowed with
+deep ravines, in each one of which flows a sparkling river of clearest
+water, fed by countless cascades, which fall from high cliffs,
+and, uniting in the upper valleys, leap in rushing cataracts over
+the sheer precipices, by which alone they may reach the lower
+levels.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Six of these islands are inhabited—namely, Nukuheva, Hiva-oa
+(commonly called Dominica), Tetuhiva, Tahuata, Uapou, and
+Uahuna, Of these, the principal are Nukuheva and Dominica.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The former is about 17 miles in length by 12 in breadth—the
+latter 20 by 7. The population of the group, which a few
+years ago was roughly estimated at from 15,000 to 20,000, does
+not now exceed 5000, of whom 3000 are the inhabitants of
+Dominique. On all the other islands the population was decimated
+about fifteen years ago by the so-called Peruvian labour
+trade—in other words, remorseless kidnappers. Smallpox was
+also introduced by foreign ships, and, as in all new countries where
+it breaks out for the first time, swept the isles like a consuming
+fire, leaving to this day the trace of its awful ravages.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It broke out in the year 1863, and quickly spread throughout
+the group. On the isle of Nukuheva it raged with frightful virulence,
+and carried off a great multitude. José, a Peruvian convert
+who had found his way to the Marquesas, and established himself
+as an evangelist, devoted himself with untiring patience and zeal
+to the care of the sick, whose panic-stricken friends forsook them,
+and left him alone to tend that terrible company of miserable
+sufferers. Single-handed, he buried the dead; but, thanks to his
+self-devotion, many recovered, and by his good influence were won
+from their gross cannibalism and heathenism to the faith he so
+nobly taught them by its practice. But just then the French
+authorities sold all that district to Stewart &#38; Co., a company of
+English and French merchants, who converted it into cotton and
+coffee plantations, and José was ordered to leave!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The new-comers took possession of lands wellnigh depopulated
+by the terrible smallpox. Silence and desolation brooded over the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_244'>244</span>rich and beautiful valleys, where bread-fruit, cocoa-palms, guavas,
+papaws, and all manner of tropical fruits ripened unheeded, for
+there were none to gather them.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thus where a few years ago the natives could be counted by
+thousands, there are now only scattered villages, thinly peopled.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Happily the ravages of constant intertribal wars are held in
+check by the presence of the French. In former days the Marquesans
+were fierce cannibals, and the inhabitants of each lovely
+valley waged war to the death against all other tribes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The almost inaccessible mountain-ridges rise from the sea-level,
+somewhat in the general form of a great star-fish, the space between
+the arms being filled by verdant and most fertile valleys, where all
+manner of fruit trees grow luxuriantly, and where the different
+tribes live, each in its own territory, and well shielded by its
+natural position from all incursions of its neighbours. For each
+valley is thus enclosed by abrupt precipitous crags, several hundred
+feet in height, over which leap cool sparkling rivulets, bringing
+abundant moisture to irrigate the yam and <i>taro</i> crops, the sugar-cane,
+cotton, and all the rich herbage which flourishes beneath the
+dense foliage of bread-fruit and bananas.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Embowered in this green paradise are homes built of the yellow
+bamboo, whose feathery foliage waves so gracefully in every direction.
+The houses are thatched with palmetto-leaves, sun-bleached
+to a dazzling whiteness. They resemble the Tahitian native houses,
+but are built on oblong platforms of raised stones, such as those
+which form the foundation of Fijian houses, and which are a necessary
+protection against the damp of these isles, whose excessive
+verdure tells of a heavy rainfall. The chief wealth of the people
+lies in their pigs, which were introduced by the Spaniards, who
+consequently were venerated as gods. Cats and rats are also foreign
+importations. The group has literally no indigenous mammalia,
+and indeed very few birds.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In former years the women manufactured native cloth, as in the
+other groups, but now a considerable amount of gay calico lends
+colour to brighten the scene. Here, however, as in other countries,
+the French prove themselves bad colonists. In most respects the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_245'>245</span>Protectorate is merely nominal, and nothing in the way of improvement
+flourishes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As I before mentioned, the first attempt of the London Mission
+to establish a footing here failed signally.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In 1797, two Englishmen—Messrs Crook and Harris—were
+sent out to try and establish a footing in the Marquesas. Harris
+found his heart fail at the dangers and horrors of the position, so
+he returned at once to Tahiti. Mr Crook worked alone for a year,
+and then returned to England in search of helpers. He does not
+seem to have resumed his dangerous post for some years, and then
+merely visited the group. Meanwhile Tahitian converts were sent
+out as teachers, but without much success, so they returned to
+Tahiti. Others took up the work, and also failed to maintain their
+ground.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In 1833, three American missionaries left the Sandwich Isles,
+accompanied by their wives, and contrived to endure eight months
+in Nukuheva, endeavouring to tame and Christianise its brutal
+savages; but they also had to give up the attempt.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In 1834, a fresh party of English missionaries renewed the
+effort, and struggled on till about 1840, when the London Mission
+finally abandoned the field.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But in 1853, a Marquesan chief, Matanui, came to the Sandwich
+Isles in a whale-ship, and requested that teachers should be sent
+to his people. Thereupon Mr Bicknell, an Englishman, accompanied
+by four Hawaiian teachers and their wives, agreed to return
+with him to his island, Fatuhiva. Five days after they arrived, a
+French brig anchored there, bringing a Catholic priest, who demanded
+that they should be at once sent away, and declared that
+the Marquesas belonged to France, and that no English teacher
+would be tolerated. This statement was at once denied by the
+chiefs, who refused to dismiss their teachers, though they by no
+means yielded implicit obedience to their lessons, or even treated
+them with uniform kindness. Nevertheless the Hawaiian teachers
+have held their ground, and though discouraged and oppressed,
+they have continued to work silently but steadily, training native
+teachers from among their converts, establishing boarding schools,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_246'>246</span>whereby to separate their scholars from evil influence at home,
+organising churches, and, in short, doing all in their power to
+advance the good cause.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was felt that a great step had been gained when the oppressive
+system of <i>tabu</i> had received its first blow by many of the
+high chiefs coming to a feast at the mission, in company with
+their wives, as heretofore it had been forbidden for father, mother,
+or grown-up child to eat one with another—all had to feed apart;
+and the same senseless prohibitions extended in endless ramifications
+through all actions of life. Now the system of <i>tabu</i> has
+fallen into neglect, and the Hawaiian Mission has gained ground,
+notwithstanding much hindrance from the opposition and interference
+of the Roman Catholic priests.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nevertheless, to all intents and purposes, the majority of the
+people are still savages, and the present mission of the Seignelay
+is to inquire into recent cases of alleged cannibalism, said to have
+occurred in the interior of Dominica, where the hill-tribes and
+fisher-tribes still live at constant enmity. It is said to be the
+most fertile island in the group, and to have the largest population.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French governor is supported by sundry officials, and a
+detachment of about sixty soldiers, a dozen <i>gens d’armes</i>, and a
+few native police.<a id='r55'></a><a href='#f55' class='c017'><sup>[55]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span>The Catholic Mission consists of a bishop, with a considerable
+number of priests, and a sisterhood like those on Tonga, Samoa,
+and Tahiti. The priests work hard, but apparently with small
+result. It is whispered that the presence of a large number of
+very irreligious white men has a highly demoralising influence on
+the natives—as we can well understand; and even the French
+Government, which took such a lively interest in the introduction
+of Catholicism to Tahiti, seems to take none in the progress of the
+mission in the Marquesas.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the matter of stone and mortar a good deal has been done,
+well-built churches having been erected in all the principal valleys,
+in the proportion of one church to every 150 inhabitants. Unfortunately,
+however, the people show small disposition to adopt
+any form of Christianity. The queen Viakehu and a few of her
+household are devout Catholics; and a little flock, who profess to
+be Christians, rally round each of the missionaries, but the majority
+continue heathen, with a deeply rooted belief in their old superstitions.
+I have just received a photograph of one of the Marquesan
+stone idols, with two of its worshippers. It is singularly
+hideous, and the head is crowned with a circular capstone, resembling
+on a small scale the crowns of Easter Island.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But if the Catholic Mission has hitherto failed in its ostensible
+work, it has at least given the natives a good example of industry;
+for every available inch of ground within reach of the mission is
+under most careful cultivation, and is made to grow excellent
+cotton.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Though the Marquesans are too idle to do any sort of planting
+beyond what is actually necessary for the cultivation of their
+gardens, the example set by the mission has been followed by
+various settlers. Foremost among these is Captain Hart, a man
+of great energy, who has done much to advance the trading interest
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span>of the islands, and who on one of his plantations employs forty
+Chinamen, and about sixty natives of the Gilbert Islands—for
+here, as in all other places where white men endeavour to cultivate
+the land, they find it necessary to employ labourers imported
+from other isles, as they cannot extract the same amount of work
+from men living on their native soil.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Hitherto only about a hundred Chinese, and as many Gilbert
+Islanders, have been imported, and cotton is the only article grown
+expressly for exportation. Of course where cocoa-palms are so
+abundant, a considerable amount of <i>coppra</i>,<a id='r56'></a><a href='#f56' class='c017'><sup>[56]</sup></a> is to be obtained; but
+the natives have unfortunately been instructed in the art of making
+palm-rum, and trees which have been tapped for this purpose
+rarely recover their full strength as nut-producers. Happily, in
+this matter, self-interest leads the colonists to support the missionaries
+in their endeavours to dissuade the people from thus misusing
+the palm-trees; but, on the other hand, foreign traders are
+too ready to supply more fiery stimulants, and drunkenness prevails
+to a grievous extent.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nearly all these isles supply one indigenous article of commerce—namely,
+a kind of fungus, which is much appreciated in China.
+It looks like dried-up leather, but is not unpalatable when stewed
+or served in soup. A considerable amount of this is obtained in
+most of the Marquesan valleys.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of colonists, properly so called, there are very few. About fifty
+white men are scattered throughout the isles. Of these, some trade;
+others cultivate the soil; while a few wander aimlessly from bay
+to bay, island to island, living upon whatever the natives like to
+give them: they are either too lazy to work, or too dishonest to
+find employment. These men include waifs from all nationalities,
+including Scotch, English, Irish, American, German, Spanish, and
+Portuguese. Although a French colony, there are only three or
+four French subjects who can be classed as colonists; but here, as
+elsewhere, the frugal and diligent Chinaman seems likely to take
+firm root.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nukuheva bay (where the Seignelay is probably now anchored)
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span>is described as surpassingly lovely. It is a perfect harbour, with
+very deep water, and forms a horse-shoe about nine miles in circumference,
+ending in two lofty and abrupt headlands. The
+entrance is very narrow, barely half a mile across, and is guarded
+on each side by small conical isles, rising about 500 feet above the
+sea. All round the harbour the greenest of low hills swell in
+gentle undulations, while behind these rise majestic mountains,
+whence steep rocky ridges trend seaward, dividing the vast amphitheatre
+into several distinct valleys, which, narrowing as they
+ascend, become deep, romantic glens. Here and there snowy cascades,
+gleaming through the rich verdure, tell where the precipitous
+crags close in the valleys. Some of these barrier-cliffs rise perpendicularly,
+to a height of perhaps 1500 feet. So rich is the growth
+of parasitical plants, which cling to every crevice, that these mighty
+rugged crags appear only to be green walls surmounted by black
+basaltic pinnacles and cones, beyond which tower the blue peaks
+of some of the higher ridges, which occupy the whole centre of the
+isle, rising to a height of about 4000 feet.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There are in these sheltered vales many old men who, in all
+their long lives, have never set foot out of their own little
+boundary. Those vine-clad cliffs have hemmed them in, and the
+mountain wilderness beyond has offered no inducement to roving.
+No fruit, no game; only the certainty of excessive toil for no
+reward, and the possibility of wandering unintentionally within
+the territory of some other tribe, ever on the watch to slay any
+imprudent straggler.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The lives of the women have been even more circumscribed,
+owing to an extraordinary law of <i>tabu</i>, which prohibits a female
+from setting foot in a canoe; consequently her farthest voyage is
+regulated by her powers of swimming; and so, when a foreign
+vessel arrives in port, and the Marquesan nymphs wish to inspect
+it more closely, they can only do so by swimming. Small wonder
+if sailors, perceiving those fair-skinned beauties, with their tresses
+of long black hair floating around them, suppose their visitors to
+be a company of mermaids! From all accounts many of these
+girls are really beautiful. In stature they are somewhat diminutive,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span>whereas the men average over six feet. As in Tahiti and
+other tropical climates, the constitution ripens at a very early age,
+so that mere children may be seen playing with their own babies
+instead of dolls. Happily the responsibilities of housekeeping do
+not weigh heavily in these isles, where nature is so generous, the
+climate so genial, and food so abundant.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am told that the bread-fruit tree in particular flourishes in the
+Marquesas to an extent unknown elsewhere, and grows to an
+enormous size—the ripe fruit, either freshly gathered or in its
+manufactured form of <i>poi</i>, forming the staple food of the isles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Marquesans have the same love of flowers as their neighbours,
+and the girls vie one with another in producing the loveliest
+garlands, bracelets, and anklets, sometimes of blossoms and
+leaves intertwined, but more often of single flowers, plucked from
+their calyx and strung together on a thin fibre of <i>tappa</i>, while
+snowy buds take the place of pearl ear-rings. The fragrant white
+blossoms of a large tree are those most in favour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the permanent adornment is that of tattooing, which the
+Marquesans have brought to greater perfection than any other
+South Sea Islanders, except perhaps the Maoris of New Zealand,
+their very fair skin affording a tempting parchment for the artist’s
+work. The patterns are quaint, and very elaborately worked out in
+every conceivable variety of curve. Some of the older men are
+thus decorated from head to foot. Even the face is not spared, a
+favourite pattern being a strongly marked triangle, the base sweeping
+across the lips from ear to ear, whence the other lines ascend,
+crossing both eyelids, to meet on the shaven crown. Other men
+prefer three broad stripes carried straight across the face,—one
+across the eyes, a second across the nose, a third sweeping across the
+mouth from ear to ear. A really well-tattooed man is a sort of
+walking volume of illustrated natural history, so numerous may be
+the strange creatures of earth, sea, and air, delineated on his much-enduring
+skin,—birds and butterflies, fishes and crabs, lizards and
+snakes, octopi and star-fish, flowers and fruits, all traced in delicate
+blue lines on a most silky, olive-coloured surface. Those who go
+in for artistic unity of design sometimes have the stem of some
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span>graceful tree traced along the spine, while the spreading branches
+extend on either shoulder and droop down the sides, and delicately
+traced vines twine spirally round arms and legs, birds and insects
+appearing among the leaves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have been told that in one of the beautiful valleys lying farther
+round the isle than Nukuheva harbour there are Cyclopean remains,
+somewhat suggestive of the tombs of the Toui Tongas which we
+saw in the Friendly Isles. Among the dense groves which clothe
+the base of the mountain lie a series of vast terraces, each about
+a hundred yards long by twenty wide, and disposed one above
+another on the mountain-side, like gigantic steps. They are built
+of oblong blocks of stone, some of which are fifteen feet long by
+five or six wide. Though perfectly smooth, they bear no mark of
+any tool, and are laid without cement. Huge trees have taken
+root in the crevices, and their interlacing boughs now form a dense
+canopy above this monument of a forgotten race, concerning which
+the Marquesans themselves have no tradition. So impenetrable
+is the growth of vines in that green wilderness, that a stranger
+might pass the spot—nay, actually cross the terraces by the native
+track—without observing them. It is another of the mysteries of
+the stone age.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But, on a much smaller scale, there exist in the Marquesas
+<i>marais</i> similar to those of Tahiti, which have been the temples and
+the tombs of the present inhabitants ever since they knew their
+own history,—and even these are sufficiently large to make one
+marvel how they could have been erected by a race ignorant of all
+mechanical arts, and owning only such rude stone implements.
+Beside the <i>marais</i> there are a vast number of very old stone
+foundations, similar to those on which the houses are invariably
+raised, probably telling of a diminished population. The man who,
+in the present day, wishes to build himself a bamboo house, can
+therefore appropriate one of these ready-made foundations, and find
+the hardest part of his house-building already accomplished.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I cannot learn that there is any trace of active volcanic agency
+now existing in the Marquesas, though in some districts sulphur-springs
+and mineral waters of various kinds have been found.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span>On the island of Hiva-oa (or Dominica), in the valley of Ta-oa,
+about one mile and a half from the beach, and about 300 feet
+above the level of the sea, there is a hole two inches in diameter,
+from which, when the sea is rough, there rises a strongly sulphurous
+steam, accompanied by a loud noise, like the steam-pipe of a
+steamer. When the water is smooth there is only a slight noise
+and no steam, only a strong smell of sulphur.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>My attention has just been called to an exceedingly interesting
+letter from the Rev. Titus Coan, which appeared ten years ago in a
+Hawaiian paper. He had just returned to Honolulu after visiting
+the Marquesas in the little mission-ship Morning Star. He speaks
+of the foreign settlement at Taiohae or Nukuheva, as having been
+allowed to fall into great disrepair. The jetty, the forts, the arsenal,
+the fine road sweeping round the head of the bay—in fact,
+all the former works and improvements of the French—are fast
+going to decay, and only a few hundred natives, in place of the
+thousands of a few years earlier.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>He was most courteously received by the French bishop, who
+gave him much information about the people, and spoke hopefully
+of progress made on the north-west isles of the group, though
+the pagan tribes on the windward isles, especially on Dominica
+and Magdalena, were still wild and defiant.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mr Coan then visited the convent, where the French Sisters
+devote their lives to the training of Marquesan girls. About sixty
+girls board in the large airy house, their ages ranging from four to
+sixteen—happy, healthy-looking girls, lovingly taught by gentle,
+highly educated French ladies, and everything done to make their
+lives so cheery, that there may be no hankering for heathen pleasures.
+Of these girls, Mr Coan remarks that he has rarely seen more
+perfect specimens of physical organisation, brighter faces, or more
+active minds, than among the Marquesan children, many of whom
+are beautiful, bright, and blithesome.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A corresponding school for boys is established, under a French
+secular teacher.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Though the settlement of Taiohae cannot be reckoned as very
+“go-ahead,” it certainly sounds as if it might be a singularly attractive
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span>resting-place—the houses smothered in luxuriant foliage, both
+indigenous and exotic, ornamental and fruit-bearing; banyan, iron-wood,
+candle-nut, hybiscus, palms, bread-fruit, orange, citron, lemon,
+guava, South Sea chestnut, and ever so many other trees, all growing
+in richest beauty; and every rock and pinnacle is carpeted with
+mosses and grasses, or festooned with tropical vines. The precipitous
+crags all around are so thickly clothed, that they suggest green
+velvet draperies striped with lines of molten silver; these are
+merry cascades, falling from sources 3000 feet above the valley,
+and forming three large streams, which dash among rocky boulders
+on their seaward way.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But Mr Coan seems to award the palm of beauty to the valley
+of Atuona on Isle Hiva-oa. He says it is a broad, deep valley,
+umbrageous and peaceful, and watered by a limpid, babbling stream.
+The trees are magnificent, and the vines run riot in their luxuriance.
+The great rampart of rocks rising in the background is the highest
+point of all the islands, and it is usually wreathed with clouds.
+“The broken hills form columns, spurs, pinnacles, coves, and sharp
+lateral ribs. Some are round, some angular, some stratified, some
+laminated, some truncated, some pointed. They lie in all positions—horizontal,
+tilted, vertical—with heaps of scoria revealing their
+igneous origin. Rock is piled on rock, hill upon hill, ridge upon
+ridge, mountain upon mountain—serried, castellated, turreted,&#160;...
+forming masses of confused harmony, defying all the art
+of the limner, the pen-and-ink painter, and the descriptive powers
+of man.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now I do hope you sympathise in my ever-increasing regret
+at having missed my chance of visiting so marvellous a scene of
+beauty!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The climate, too, must be delightful. It is soft and balmy, and
+the dense foliage affords such constant shade that even the rays of
+a tropical sun can only trickle through in bright gleams, while the
+cooling sea-breeze seems never to fail. Severe storms are rare, and
+hurricanes unknown in the group. In short, the climate is equable,
+mild, and wellnigh perfect.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The mission party sailed from one beautiful isle to another, to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span>visit the teachers already established, and to bring them fresh
+helpers. They landed on Uahuna, which, like the other isles, is
+high, broken, and precipitous. Their arrival was an unexpected
+joy to the good Laioha and his wife Ewa, who had been settled
+here about a year previously, and already had made a considerable
+impression on the people. Laioha blew a loud blast on a horn;
+and its echoes, reaching the villages nestled among precipices far up
+the valley, soon brought together about fifty wild men and women—some
+of whom had already made considerable progress in reading
+and writing.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Paumau about a hundred people assembled under the trees,
+on the beautiful shore. Many carried spears and war-clubs, whaling-spades
+or shark-spears. Some had the head shaven all over;
+some in zones and belts, vertical or horizontal; some on one side,
+some on the other; some with a tuft of hair on the crown, some
+on the forehead, some on the occiput, and some hanging over the
+right or the left ear. And thus it was with the tattooing. The
+wildest taste and most fantastic and capricious figures were displayed
+upon the face, arms, legs, and over the whole body. Children
+are not tattooed; females but little, consequently they look
+like another and a milder race of beings.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To this strange crowd Mr Coan and his friends endeavoured to
+explain some of the simplest doctrines of Christianity. One old
+warrior, heavily tattooed, and with closely shaven head, who carried
+a large green leaf to shade his eyes, was witty and sceptical, and
+brought up many objections to the new creed. But presently he
+confessed that it was good, and bade Mr Coan speak also to his
+chief. The latter, on hearing of a heaven in which there was
+neither fighting nor hunger, remarked that “it would be a good
+place for cowards and lazy folk, who are afraid to fight, and too
+indolent to climb cocoa-palms or bread-fruit trees.” His repartees
+excited laughter in the crowd; but after a while, he, like the old
+warrior, declared that it was good, and that he would forsake
+heathenism.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Pressing the hand of his new white friend, he said, “<i>Kaoha oe</i>,”—“Love
+to thee.” He became serious and earnest, and listened
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span>with fixed interest to all the words then spoken; and the meeting
+only dispersed when darkness overshadowed the land. A fine old
+lady of eighty, one of the early converts (who at her baptism had
+added the name of Eve to her own native name of Hipa-Hipa), was
+brought forward by her friends, and clasping Mr Coan’s hands,
+placed them on her own silvery head, as she welcomed him for his
+work’s sake.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The mission-ship next proceeded to Hakahekau, on Isle Uapou,
+to carry needful supplies to the Rev. S. Kauwealoha, who has
+laboured for several years among its beautiful valleys and wild
+cannibal inhabitants. He is described as a man of great energy
+and activity, both physical and intellectual, with a large and generous
+heart, ever ready to put head, heart, and hand to any work
+which will help others, or advance the cause of Christ. His talents
+are versatile. He can work in wood, iron, stone, and mortar; can
+build a good house; construct, rig, row, and sail a boat; or act as
+pilot in all the harbours of the group. He will work bareheaded
+and barefooted, and can swim and dive in the surf like a porpoise.
+He is very intelligent, speaks and reads English tolerably, and, by
+getting hold of an occasional newspaper, he manages to keep up
+with the current news of the age. As a missionary he is earnest in
+prayer, energetic in preaching, and firm in principle, and foreigners
+and natives alike respect him.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While the vessel was landing its stores, its passengers explored
+scenery of indescribable loveliness. Passing through a valley rich
+with luxuriant vegetation, they reached a point three miles in the
+interior, where they commanded a general view of the sublime landscape.
+“Within a vast amphitheatre of rugged hills, which send
+down their serrated spurs to the shore, buttressed by bold and lofty
+precipices, are eight remarkable cones, 200 to 300 feet high, and
+50 to 100 feet in diameter, standing as everlasting columns against
+the sky, giving to the whole the character of a castellated fortress.
+The fantastic forms produced by the force of ancient volcanic fires,
+by the abrading action of winds, rain, and chemical agencies on
+these isles, are amazing.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Passing on to Isle Futuiva, the vessel anchored in Hanavave
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span>Bay, embowered in magnificent hills, with towering rocks like lofty
+minarets guarding its entrance. Mr Coan says the scene was so
+grand as to be almost overpowering. He rowed for some miles
+along the wonderful coast, which he believes to be almost without
+an equal in nature. Rocky cliffs, towering domes, and lofty precipices,
+rent, grooved, and fluted, everywhere charmed the eye; and
+from these bold heights, sometimes of 2000 feet, silvery cascades
+leaped to the sea.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here and there shaded dells opened along the rocky shore.
+Small valleys filled with fruit-bearing trees, and murmuring with
+living waters, appeared as if by enchantment. But all were desolate,
+for fierce bloody war had slain the inhabitants, or driven them from
+these Edens of beauty.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For the tribes of Hanavave Bay have waged ceaseless war with
+those of Omoa, and the latter seem of late years to have had the
+best of it.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Omoa (which is separated from Hanavave by dividing ridges
+of inaccessible crags and precipices), the Hawaiian teachers assembled
+to meet Mr Coan and his friends. The party consisted
+of the Rev. S. Kauwealoha, the Rev. J. Kekela, the Rev. A.
+Kaukau, the Rev. T. W. Kaiwi, the Rev. Z. Hapuku, and Mr T.
+W. Laioha. The names are characteristic. So is the fact of the
+Rev. Z. Hapuku going out to meet the ship, by diving through
+raging surf in which no boat could live, that he might pilot the
+vessel to another bay, where the boats found a landing-place on a
+smooth sand-beach; and the visitors were led to the mission-house
+by an avenue, cut like a long tunnel, through the hybiscus and
+cotton shrubs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Omoa a large proportion of the native converts had assembled
+for church services. About seventy persons were present. In the
+morning a new pastor was ordained to the work of the ministry.
+In the afternoon seventeen adults and two children were baptised,
+and afterwards the Holy Communion was administered to about
+forty communicants, nearly all of whom had but a few years, or
+even months, previously, been reclaimed from heathenism and wild
+cannibal orgies.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_257'>257</span>The schools of Omoa were examined on the following day, and
+about seventy scholars were found under tuition, of whom fifty-four
+could read, and many had made some progress in arithmetic
+and geography.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As if in special contrast to this meeting of the Christians, the
+heathen Marquesans were engaged in some curious ceremonies, in
+honour of a celebrated prophetess who had died six weeks previously.
+Her name was Kauakamikihei. They had built a house
+for her, 12 feet wide by 24 long, and 48 feet high. On the top of
+this house they placed a target of white native cloth (there called
+<i>kapa</i>), and supposed to represent the moon. At this the men fired
+their muskets, and shouts of triumph greeted the lucky shots.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Afterwards a great company of tattooed savages rushed to the
+shore, with wild shouts, carrying a sacred canoe, which was covered
+with a broad flat frame of bamboo, on which was erected a small
+round house, covered with mats. In this were placed a live pig, a
+dog, and a cock, also some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a bowl of
+<i>poi</i>. The canoe was much ornamented, and rigged with mast, and
+sail of <i>kapa</i>. With much shouting it was launched, and pushed
+by bold swimmers through the roaring surf into the open sea,
+where they left it and returned to shore. The canoe drifted slowly
+out of the bay, but struck on the northern headland, where it was
+in danger of being dashed to pieces on the rocks, when a native
+ran round the harbour and once more shoved off the frail bark,
+which sailed out to sea with its living freight. This ceremony was
+a final offering to the god whom the dead prophetess or priestess
+had served, and closed the season of <i>koina</i> or <i>tabu</i>, which had
+lasted six weeks, during which all manner of servile work or vain
+recreation were alike forbidden.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From these frequent allusions to heavy surf breaking on the
+shore, you may infer that the coral barrier-reef is wanting on most
+of the Marquesan isles. The fact is, that in many cases, these
+volcanic crags rise so precipitously, from so great a depth, that the
+diligent corals have failed to gain a resting-place, and so the sea
+dashes on the shore with unabated violence.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Strangely in contrast with these picturesque volcanic isles, is
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_258'>258</span>that other group over which, also, I grieve as over a lost inheritance.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Paumotus (<i>i.e.</i>, cloud of islands)—or, as we used to call it,
+the Low or Dangerous Archipelago—is a cluster of eighty very
+flat coral-isles, most of which are of the nature of atolls, some
+shaped like a horse-shoe, others so nearly circular that only small
+canoes can enter the calm lagoon which occupies the centre; and
+some are perfect rings, having no visible connection whatever
+with the ocean, which, nevertheless, finds a subterranean passage
+through which the waters rush in a strong current as the tides rise
+and fall. Such lagoons as these are generally encircled by a belt
+of swamp, which can only be crossed by laying down pathways of
+long branches; these act in the same way as huge Canadian snowshoes,
+and enable the light-footed natives to pass in safety across
+the treacherous green surface to the margin of the lake, where they
+keep small canoes in which to paddle about in search of eels and
+shrimps, and various kinds of fish. The water-supply is generally
+deficient, and only by sinking wells in the coral-sand can even
+brackish water be obtained. There are, however, exceptions to
+this rule, and some isles have good springs. But at best, the
+people depend greatly on their cocoa-nuts for drink even more
+than for food, and happily this supply rarely fails them. The
+coral-bed supplies neither soil nor water sufficient to raise any
+regular crops. Here and there a sort of caladium with edible
+root grows wild, but yams or <i>taro</i> are only known as imported
+luxuries. Forest-trees and scrub, however, contrive to find a
+living, and form a dense growth over most of the isles; and here
+and there clumps of carefully cultivated bananas, orange-trees, or
+bread-fruit, tell of a richer and deeper soil, probably accumulated
+with patient toil. Fig-trees and limes also flourish.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some of the lagoon-reefs have a diameter of about forty miles,
+and only rise above the water in small isles, forming a dotted
+circle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I believe it is generally supposed that such coral-rings as these
+have in many cases been the encircling reef formed round some
+volcanic isle, which has gradually subsided, whereas the reef-building
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_259'>259</span>corals have continually risen higher and higher, so as to
+remain in the shallow water, in which alone they can live, and
+thus in course of ages the condition of things becomes reversed.
+The once fertile isle disappears beneath the ocean, whereas the
+coral-reef, rising to just below high-water mark, gradually accumulates
+shells and seaweeds; the sea deposits drift of all sorts, and,
+little by little, a soil is formed which becomes fertile, and presently
+cocoa-nuts drift from far-away isles, and weeds of many sorts are
+carried by the birds, or float on the currents, and so the isle
+becomes fertile—a ring instinct with life, rising perpendicularly
+from the deep sea on the outer side, and very often on the inner
+side also.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Where this is the case, and the inner lagoon appears as fathomless
+as the outer sea, it is supposed that the atoll has been formed
+on the rim of a sunken crater, colonies of living corals having
+settled on its surface so soon as it subsided below high-water
+mark. This theory seems the more probable, from the manner in
+which you find these circular coral-isles densely clustered in certain
+localities, and none in other groups, just as in some regions we find
+innumerable extinct craters covering the whole surface of the land,
+and can readily imagine that should such a district subside, each
+cup-like crater might soon be covered with corals.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As in some craters the lava-flow has rent a gap near the summit
+whereby to escape, and in other craters it has found for itself a
+subterranean passage, leaving the upper crust unbroken, so in these
+atolls, some are perfect rings, and the tides ebb and flow within
+the lagoons by submarine channels, while others have an open
+passage, deep enough for a ship to sail into the inner lake.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The principal island in the Paumotu group is that of Manga
+Reva, a cluster of five isles, all within one encircling reef. The
+main isle is a basaltic mass, rising 2000 feet above the sea-level.
+It is the most fertile of the group, and is the headquarters of the
+French bishop and his clergy. The Paumotus have a population
+of about 5000 persons, the majority of whom are Roman Catholics.
+They are a fine independent race, and in old days were accounted
+brave warriors.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_260'>260</span>Now a large number make their living by diving for the great
+pearl shell-oysters, which are found in many of the lagoons at a
+depth of from ten to twenty fathoms, attached to the coral-rock by
+a strong byssus—<i>i.e.</i>, a bunch of silky golden-brown filaments,
+which the diver cuts with his knife, and so secures his prize. This
+silken cable is attached to the muscle of the fish itself, and passes
+through an aperture at the hinge. An expert diver can remain
+under water for about three minutes. In some of the isles women
+are accounted the most skilful divers, especially in deep water,
+where the largest shells are found, some actually measuring
+eighteen inches across—such beautiful great shields of gleaming
+mother-of-pearl.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The pearls themselves are not very abundant, and are generally
+found in the less perfect shells, the inmates of which are either
+sickly or have inadvertently admitted grains of coral-sand, which
+they have been unable to eject. But sometimes the large healthy
+shells contain one beautiful perfect pearl, not lodged in the muscle
+in the ordinary way, but lying loose in the shell; and though it is
+certain that many are lost through carelessness, a considerable
+number have taken high rank among the noted pearls of the civilised
+world. I believe that those composing the Empress Eugénie’s
+splendid necklace were collected in the Paumotus, and that Queen
+Victoria’s pearl, which is valued at £6000, was also found there.
+In heathen days all the best pearls were treasured in the idol
+temples, and some of the early adventurers are known to have
+made a very lucrative business by exchanging cheap muskets for
+bags of pearls. The same disease or discomfort which produces
+these lovely gems often takes a form less valued, but still very
+beautiful—large distorted pearly lumps, often the size of two
+joints of the little finger, and assuming all manner of quaint forms,
+sometimes resembling a human hand. I have seen some which
+had been set as pins and brooches, which I thought very attractive.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These, however, like the pearls themselves, are the accidental
+prizes of the divers. The regular article of traffic is the shell
+itself, which the traders buy from the natives at an average of £15
+per ton, and sell in London at an average of over £100. They
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_261'>261</span>calculate that by hiring divers and working the beds themselves,
+the shell can be raised at less than £6 per ton. In former years
+the annual harvest of Paumotu pearl-shell was immensely in excess
+of the present supply, which is said not to average above 200 tons—the
+natural result of allowing the beds no time to recruit.
+Doubtless there are vast beds untouched, at lower levels, where
+the divers do not care to venture; and it is supposed that the
+outer face of the barrier-reef is probably one vast oyster-bed, but
+the bravest divers dare not venture to attempt work beneath the
+awful breakers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Certain it is, that the colonies in the lagoons are annually replenished
+by myriads of infant pearl-oysters, which have been
+spawned in the deep sea, and which, in the months of December
+and March, may be seen floating in with the rising tide; tiny
+glittering shells, a quarter or a half inch in diameter, like fairy
+coins. Once in those calm waters, the young oysters apparently
+have no wish again to seek the stormy outer seas, for they are
+never seen floating out with the retiring tide. It takes seven
+years for an oyster to attain maturity, so only those which settle
+in deep water have a chance of reaching a ripe age.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Strange to say, these creatures, which appear to be so immovably
+attached to their coral-rock, are proved to be migratory. Not only
+do the closely packed young oysters detach their silken cables and
+move off in search of more roomy quarters, but even the heavy
+grown-up shells sometimes travel from one shelf in the coral to
+another, probably in search of better feeding-grounds. They are
+singularly capricious in the selection of their homes; in one lagoon
+they are abundant, and perhaps in the very next not an oyster is
+to be found: and no attempt to raise artificial beds, even by transporting
+masses of rock covered with young shells, has ever succeeded,
+although the surroundings are apparently identical in every
+respect. Of course they will not settle anywhere near sand, which,
+by any disturbing cause, might enter their shells, and cause them
+as much inconvenience as do the innumerable tiny red crabs,—uninvited
+guests, which take up their quarters in the oyster-shells,
+to the great aggravation of the helpless owners.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_262'>262</span>The lagoons in which these fisheries are carried on are indescribably
+lovely: marine gardens, in which every detail of beauty
+is enhanced by being seen through the clearest crystal waters,
+which lend a glamour as of a magic glass to everything seen
+through them, whether sea-weed or shell, zoophyte or coral, gliding
+snake or rainbow-coloured fish. Here and there are patches of
+pure white coral-sand, which serve to reveal the exquisite colour of
+the aqua-marine water; while the golden seaweeds appear purple,
+and the corals seem to vary in hue, according to the depth at
+which they lie beneath the surface. It is all illusion, for the
+flowers of the sea are always disappointing when gathered. But
+there on the coral-ledges lie the great oysters and many other shells,
+including the huge clam, which is accounted excellent food. The
+pearl-oyster is only eaten in times of scarcity, as it is very coarse
+and unpalatable, though not unwholesome.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Diving for clams generally falls to the share of the women; and
+many a one has met her doom from getting nipped by the ponderous
+dentated shell, and so held prisoner in the depths, never to
+rise again. I heard several horrible stories on this subject in Fiji,
+and here new ones are added to the list. Quite recently a poor
+fellow fishing on one of the Paumotu atolls dived to the bottom of
+the lagoon, feeling for pearl-oysters, when he unluckily slipped the
+fingers of his left hand into a gaping clam-shell, which instantly
+closed and held him as if in a vice. The shell lay in a hole in the
+coral, so that it was impossible to reach the byssus by which it
+was moored in that safe harbour; the wretched man, in agony of
+mind and of body, severed his own fingers with his knife, and
+rose to the surface, having indeed escaped drowning, but being
+maimed for life. There have been other cases when a diver, thus
+imprisoned, has with greater deliberation contrived to insert his
+knife into the shell, and so force it open sufficiently to release his
+other hand.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In gathering clams, the aim of the diver is to stab the gaping
+mollusc with a sharp-pointed stake, and then with his knife cut
+the silky filaments by which it adheres to the rock, after which he
+slips both hands below the huge shell, and endeavours to raise it;—no
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_263'>263</span>easy matter, considering what ponderous monsters many of
+the clams are—a single shell making an admirable bath for a child,
+pure as white marble, and highly polished by nature. In many
+Roman Catholic churches these large shells are used for holy water.
+The smaller clams, such as are generally used for food, are often
+picked up on the reef in basket-loads; and many a careless child
+has playfully thrust its little fingers into a gaping shell, an invasion
+promptly resented by the owner. Happily the scream of agony
+generally brings some friends to the rescue: and strong as is the
+armour of the poor besieged clam, it offers one weak point to the
+enemy—namely, the cavity through which the byssus passes; a
+skilful stab through this aperture causes the inmate to relax its
+hold, and so the child is released—but many a finger is lost in this
+manner. The multitude of these shell-fish annually consumed on
+all the isles is something incredible, and the supply is apparently
+inexhaustible. It is not generally known that these shells also
+occasionally yield very valuable and lustrous pearls of peculiar
+brilliancy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the treasury of the sea, which lies safe beyond the reach of
+covetous human beings, is that clean coral-sand which glimmers
+far below the coral caves where the oysters congregate, and to
+which, for untold ages, have dropped the pearls which fell from the
+gaping shell, when the seven-year-old oyster, having lived his
+appointed time, melted away in his native brine, and let go the
+treasures he could no longer clasp. What a dream of delight, even
+in fancy, to gather up those</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c018'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'>“Pale glistening pearls and rainbow-coloured shells,</div>
+      <div class='line'>Bright things that gleam unrecked of and in vain”!</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I suppose the water-babies of these seas look upon pearls as we
+used to look on John o’ Groats—probably with less reverence, as
+being so much more common; and perhaps they are right, for the
+one was only a disease, and the other a wondrously contrived little
+home.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>One valuable creature which loves the white coral-sand as
+cordially as the pearl-oyster dreads it, is the black <i>bêche-de-mer</i>,<a id='r57'></a><a href='#f57' class='c017'><sup>[57]</sup></a> a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_264'>264</span>very important item in the harvest of these seas, and one which
+affords a living to a multitude of white men and brown. There
+are four different sorts, of which the black is the largest. It
+resembles a gigantic leech, and grows to a length of about thirty
+inches. It is a gregarious animal, and is found in companies of
+brother-slugs wherever the water is clearest and most perfect peace
+prevails. It is supposed to be blind, and its movements are so
+slow as to be imperceptible. It has a red cousin, which seems to
+enjoy tumult and noise as much as the black kind loves calm. Its
+favourite home is on the outer edge of the coral-reef, where the
+mighty breakers are for ever raging.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The <i>bêche-de-mer</i> fishers have on the whole rather a pleasant sort
+of gipsy life. Having chartered a small vessel, they engage a set
+of natives, both men and women, to work with them for so many
+moons; and as it is just the sort of occupation which comes natural
+to these men, they generally have a cheery time of it. They anchor
+at some favourable spot, probably a desert island, and build
+a cluster of palm-leaf huts for themselves, another in which to
+smoke, and so cure the fish and slugs, and to act as storehouse.
+However rude may be their own shelter, the fish-houses must be
+made water-tight, lest the heavy rains should beat through, and
+destroy the precious store.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The men carry with them a store of yams and cocoa-nuts, and
+trust to their luck for a daily fish supply, which rarely, if ever,
+fails, and has the charm of considerable variety, including most of
+the finny tribes, turtles and their eggs, clams, cockles, and other
+shell-fish—occasionally sea-birds’ eggs are added to the feast.
+Whatever is caught is supposed to go to be handed over to the
+native overseer for equal division, that none may hunger. So
+when the day’s work is done, a delicious bathe is followed by a
+cheery supper, and then the men lie round bright wood-fires, indulging
+in never-ending talk or songs, or else dancing quaint
+savage <i>mékés</i> in the moonlight.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Every morning they start at early dawn armed with long many-pronged
+forks, to collect the treasures brought in by the tide. If
+the sea is calm they go to the outer edge of the reef, in search of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_265'>265</span>the red <i>bêche-de-mer</i>, which love the sea-foam; but when the surf
+comes thundering in with mad violence, then the fishers have a
+quiet day with the black slugs; for these they must dive perhaps
+to a depth of twelve fathoms.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As I once before mentioned to you, these creatures eject a fluid
+which blisters the skin most painfully; so instead of carrying
+them in a basket, it is customary for the fisher to have a miniature
+canoe which he can drag over the reef by means of a rope, or float
+on the calm lagoon, should he have occasion to dive; into this
+canoe he throws all treasure-trove, and when it is full, empties it
+into one of the larger boats. Noonday is the most favourable
+hour for the diver, as the sun’s vertical rays then most clearly
+illumine the submarine depths where he seeks his game.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When a fair supply has been secured, the fishers return to the
+settlement. Sometimes they busy themselves on the way by
+cleaning the slugs, which is done by cutting them open with a
+sharp knife, so as to let the dangerous blistering fluid and intestines
+fall into the sea. But the more cautious men defer this process
+till they reach the shore, when they pop the live animals into
+a boiling caldron, and therein stir them diligently for some minutes,
+after which they can clean them with greater safety to themselves.
+They are then transferred to another caldron and stewed for half
+an hour, after which they are taken to the drying-house, whence
+they reappear like bits of dry leather, and require to be soaked for
+several days previous to use.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is necessary to cook the Holothuria as quickly as possible,
+because so soon as they are dead they become a gelatinous mass
+like treacle, with a very bad smell, and all adhere together, so that
+no use can be made of them. So if caldrons are lacking, native
+ovens are at once prepared: a hole is dug in the earth, and a fire
+kindled, whereby stones are thoroughly heated, and on these the
+slugs are laid, and covered with green leaves and old matting, and
+earth over all. Thus they are steamed for an hour, till they are dried
+up and shrivelled, after which each is stretched open with little
+bits of stick, and laid on the drying stages in the smoking-house,
+over a fire of green wood, which produces a dense smoke. This
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_266'>266</span>must be kept up for three days, after which this leathery and uninviting
+delicacy is packed in palm-leaf baskets ready for the
+China market. But it must from time to time be spread in the
+scorching sun to dry it more thoroughly, as any lingering moisture
+will inevitably reveal itself on the long journey, and the produce
+of many a month’s hard labour has thus been rendered worthless.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I do not think that <i>bêche-de-mer</i> soup ever finds much favour
+with Europeans, but I have eaten it myself with much satisfaction,
+which is far more than I can say for turtle in any form, as prepared
+in the Pacific. Turtle-steaks sound well, but I cannot say
+they are nice. I think they are generally cut from turtle which
+have been roasted whole in native ovens. I believe the scientific
+cook invariably lays the turtle on its back, that the precious green
+fat and oil may not be lost; and the prudent housekeeper preserves
+the surplus of a feast-day, by cutting up slices of turtle-steak,
+which she stores in cocoa-nut shells, pouring in liquid fat,
+and tying a heated banana-leaf over the shell, in lieu of hermetically
+sealing these potted meats. As a good large turtle weighs
+fully 400 lb. (and some are occasionally captured weighing from
+600 to 700 lb.), you can understand that a chief may very well
+allow himself to store up a portion for the morrow, without depriving
+his followers of their fair share.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But if turtle-meat is unpleasant, still more so, to my uneducated
+taste, are turtle-eggs, several hundred of which are sometimes
+found inside a large mother turtle. But they are generally discovered
+carefully buried in the sand well above high-water mark.
+They are quite round and leathery, resembling small white tennis-balls.
+In the breeding season, the female turtle leaves her mate
+beyond the barrier-reef, and she comes ashore, alone, at high tide,
+generally selecting the full moon. Having chosen a suitable spot
+for her nest, she scratches a large hole in the sand, in the middle
+of which she digs a funnel, two or three feet in depth, and therein
+proceeds to lay about a hundred eggs, after which she carefully
+covers them over with sand, and smooths away all trace of her
+visit. Then she returns to the reef and there waits for the next
+high tide, when she rejoins her mate. For some reason best
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_267'>267</span>known to herself, she generally returns ashore either on the ninth
+or eighteenth night—a fact well known to the natives, who scan
+the beach eagerly for the broad track left on the smooth white
+sand by this midnight visitor.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When poor Mrs Turtle becomes aware of the presence of her
+natural foe, man, she generally tries to hide, and will lie motionless
+for hours; but should this hope prove vain, she makes for the
+sea at railway speed, her flippers acting as paddles, by which she
+jerks herself along. Should her foe outstrip her in the race, he
+contrives to turn her over, when she lies on her back more helpless
+than even a fat sheep in the like predicament.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I daresay that to all of you, in England, the accounts of these
+South Sea groups sound so much alike, that you can scarcely
+sympathise with my repining over the omission of a few. But
+each has its own distinctive peculiarities, which you only realise
+by living in it for a while, and making friends with its inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Therefore I fear that these “lines left out” will remain to me a
+lifelong regret. They have all the pain that attaches to “truth
+seen too late,” which is the crown of woe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I only hope that you will profit by my sad experience, and that
+should you ever have a chance of seeing the Marquesas and the
+Paumotus, you will not let it slip. But such luck as visiting a
+French colony in a French man-of-war does not often present
+itself!</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XVIII.<br> <span class='c009'>TAHITIAN HOSPITALITY—A SOUTH SEA STORE—A BATHING PICNIC—THE MARQUESANS—TATTOOING—ANCIENT GAMES OF TAHITI—MALAY DESCENT—THEORY OF A NORTHERLY MIGRATION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>La Maison Brandère, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Wednesday, 21st</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Already ten days have slipped away since we watched the
+Maramma sail for Honolulu, and each morning I awake with a
+feeling of pleasure that I am still in this delightful isle. Would
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_268'>268</span>that you could look on the lovely scene on which my eyes rest
+with the first glimmer of dawn, and which now lies outspread
+before me, as I sit in this cool verandah opening off my large
+bedroom on the upper storey! It is a verandah all closed in with
+<i>jalousies</i>, screening its occupants from the outside world; while
+they, themselves unseen, look down on the brightest, most animated
+scene you can imagine.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Long before sunrise the pretty native boats, with double sails,
+arrive from all parts of the isle, bringing their cargo of fish and
+fruit for the market, which is held in a large building in the town.
+But as the boats are unloaded, their wares are outspread on the
+grass just below these windows, and the most active housewives
+and purveyors for the ships come here to secure the first choice of
+luscious fruits and of fishes, as beautiful to the eye as they are
+tempting to the palate. These are of every shade of blue and
+green, scarlet and crimson, and pale yellow with lilac stripes. The
+large bright-green fish are generally eaten raw; and occasionally the
+purchasers, whose appetites are sharpened by the fresh morning air,
+cannot resist an early breakfast <i>al fresco</i>. The air is balmy and
+delicious, like a heavenly midsummer morning in Europe; and all
+the girls have light woollen shawls. (Real Scotch tartans are in
+high favour, and are worn in true Highland fashion, over one
+shoulder and round the body.)</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The fruit-supply is brought in large baskets. Just now there
+are quantities of mangoes, oranges, and Abercarder pears (<i>des
+avocats</i> they are called here, where French permeates all things,
+as it did in England when the Norman conquerors changed Saxon
+oxen, sheep, and hens, to beef, mutton, and fowls). But these
+minor fruits are trifling luxuries. The mainstay of life is the
+<i>faees</i> or wild banana, which here takes the place of the yams and
+<i>taro</i> of the groups further west.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I think I have already described this peculiar plant, which bears
+its enormous bunch of fruit growing upright from the centre of its
+crown of large leaves, instead of drooping below them, as is the
+manner of all other bananas and plantains. These clusters vary
+from two to four feet in length; and I constantly see a bunch so
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_269'>269</span>long and so heavy, that it is carried to market slung from a pole,
+resting on the shoulders of two men, just as in the old pictures of
+the Israelitish spies bearing the grapes of Eshcol, which were the
+delight of our childhood. It must be toilsome work to carry these
+weighty spoils of the mountains from the remote ravines where
+they chiefly flourish.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All these heaps of golden fruit form a brilliant foreground to the
+beautiful harbour beyond, which at this early hour reflects only the
+pale, glowing daffodil hues of a cloudless sky, against which the
+exquisite outline of Moorea stands out in clear relief. Suddenly
+its delicate pearly grey is flushed with rose colour, as the first ray
+of the rising sun touches those lofty summits, and veinings of
+tender blue mark the course of deep glens and corries, or the
+shadows cast by prominent crags and pinnacles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nearer—so near, indeed, that we can distinguish friendly faces
+on the decks—lie the French men-of-war; and as the light touches
+them, their dead white changes to cream colour, and they and their
+unfurled sails, and the clothes hung out to dry, are all reflected in
+the calm water. So, too, are the various trading ships, and the
+great hulk of a large iron vessel, which caught fire fifteen months
+ago when she was near the Marquesas. Her crew took to their
+boats, and two of these arrived here safely. A good while after,
+the deserted ship, still burning, drifted down towards here. The
+Seignelay went out and towed in the wreck. She had been laden
+with coal, and this had run into a sort of semi-fluid, tarry condition,
+and to this hour it is still smouldering; and after a shower of
+rain, steam and smoke still rise from the poor old hulk, which is so
+red from rust that you would think she had been painted vermilion.
+It is a vexed question whether she can ever be turned to account, or
+whether she should not be towed outside the reef, and there sunk.<a id='r58'></a><a href='#f58' class='c017'><sup>[58]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Just beyond the shipping, inside the harbour, is a small island
+fortified by the French. The incongruity of ramparts and guns is
+hidden by foliage of hybiscus and palms; and it forms one item in
+the beauty of the scene.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_270'>270</span>This is the view from the front of the Red House. The back
+windows look over green mango-trees, and past the spire of the
+Roman Catholic church, to the great purply mountains of the
+interior. So you see that, although this big square three-storeyed
+house of very red brick, encased in closed verandahs, is not in
+itself an ornamental building, its surroundings are very lovely.
+And of the kindliness that reigns within it, words fail me to tell.
+It is an atmosphere of genial cordiality, in which each guest is at
+once made to feel as welcome, and as thoroughly at home, as any
+member of the large family. It is a kindness as unconscious, but
+as real and as delightful, as the balmy air we breathe, and is as
+purely Tahitian. What would these warm-hearted open-handed
+people think of the measured cold reception of strangers in our
+grey British isles?</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To begin with, I discovered, on arriving here, that Mrs Brander
+had actually given me her own charming suite of rooms, to secure
+my having the fullest enjoyment of the lovely view and of the
+cool verandahs; so that I virtually am in solitary possession of this
+whole flat, with its large handsome drawing-room and cosy boudoir.
+I compare myself to one of the hermit-crabs which curl themselves
+into desirable shells, to the exclusion of the rightful owners! But
+my most hospitable hostess will not allow that she suffers any inconvenience;
+though she and her children have moved downstairs to
+share one huge room with any number of friends and relations, who
+spread their soft mattresses and pillows, and very gay quilts, and
+make themselves cosy for the night, just as the fancy takes them.
+The fine old mother has a house near, but very often she and the
+pretty sisters prefer to sleep here: so do sundry cousins and friends.
+There are also a number of Tahitian women of good birth who find
+a home, almost by right, in the house of every high chief, and who
+in return do him, or her, such light service as may be required. But
+of actual servants, as we understand the word, there are none.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I find an element of great comfort in the presence of an English
+woman who acts as housekeeper—a most unexpected discovery in
+Tahiti! She brings my early breakfast of tea and fruit, and otherwise
+takes great care of me.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_271'>271</span>We have a regular European breakfast and dinner, at which,
+however, only my hostess and her big brothers, with the Belgian
+manager and a few French officers, generally appear. The others
+prefer eating <i><span lang="fr">à l’indigène</span></i>, sitting on their mats in another room,
+or beneath the shady trees; in fact, the native element is pretty
+strong, which gives this house half its interest. All the connections
+of the royal family, and a number of pretty <i>demi-blanche</i>
+girls, dressed in flowing sacques, are continually coming and going;
+and once a week Mrs Brander has a reception for all the young
+folk, and for as many French officers as like to come; and they all
+dance and make merry,—rather more so, I think, than at the
+admiral’s Wednesday receptions at Government House, which are,
+nevertheless, very enjoyable.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I had heard the praises of my hostess sung in no measured
+terms by all the members of the mission, both French and English,
+as well as by our consul and his family; but only since I have
+lived under her roof have I realised what a very exceptional
+woman she is. To the affectionate kindliness of a genuine
+Tahitian, she adds the Anglo-Jewish strength of character and
+business capacity inherited from her father; and the combination
+is one which would be truly remarkable in any woman, but is
+doubly so in one of the gentle daughters of the South Seas. The
+born chiefess is revealed in her large-hearted generosity to every
+creature that comes within her reach; though her extreme unselfishness
+makes her shrink from any expenditure that seems to
+tend only to her own comfort. She appears to be always thinking
+what she can do for other people—rich or poor, in all parts of the
+group. She has estates scattered all over these isles, and conducts
+all their business herself, as well as attending to everything connected
+with the great mercantile house created by her late husband.
+Though she has many assistants, she is emphatically its
+head, and not the smallest detail can be carried out without her
+sanction. Every business transaction, whether with the French
+Government, or foreign vessels requiring supplies, or her own
+trading ships, passes through her hands. Everything is done by
+her special order, and every business paper has to receive her
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_272'>272</span>signature. But she never seems to forget anything or any one;
+and, moreover, has time to prove herself a most devoted mother to
+her nine children—of whom one is married in Valparaiso, another
+here, some of the sons are at school in Scotland, and the baby
+daughters are the pets and darlings of this house.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander owns a fleet of about twenty smart trading
+schooners, which run backwards and forwards between Tahiti
+and such points as San Francisco, Valparaiso, and New Zealand,
+carrying the cargoes of all sorts collected by other vessels (of the
+same fleet) in the surrounding isles and the neighbouring groups.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These cargoes consist chiefly of <i>coppra</i>—that is, dried cocoa-nut
+kernel, broken into little bits for convenience of stowage on
+the far journey to England or other lands, where it is subjected to
+such heavy pressure as extracts the oil, leaving a residue of oil-cake
+for the fattening of British beeves. For the <i>gourmet</i> of
+China, quantities of edible fungus and dried <i>bêche-de-mer</i> are sent
+to San Francisco, whence they are passed on to Hong-Kong.
+Tons of large pearl-shells, measuring about eight inches across,
+with beautifully iridescent lining, go to make buttons and such
+articles, in all parts of the world; true pearls of considerable value
+are occasionally found in these, and a large number of average size.
+Of the fruits of the isles, oranges form the largest export, but
+vanilla, coffee, and various other products swell the list. At one
+time cotton was a good article of export, but it appears to have
+fallen into disfavour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The vessels return from their several destinations laden with
+every conceivable variety of goods. There is nothing that luxury
+can desire which does not find its way to these remote isles, from
+the newest scent to the finest dress materials—not even excepting
+silks and velvets, though for whose benefit these are imported,
+passes my comprehension.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Truly wonderful is that compendium of all things needful,
+known as “a store,” and that of <i>La Maison Brandère</i> is the
+largest in Papeete. Like “the merchant” of a Scotch village,
+magnified a thousandfold, the owner of a South Sea store must
+be ready to supply all the most incongruous demands which his
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_273'>273</span>customers can possibly invent, from white satin shoes to ship
+anchors. For he has not only to provide for the island population,
+but must be ready to supply any ships that happen to come into
+harbour with whatever they require. Fresh meats and preserved
+meats, New Zealand beef, Australian mutton, condensed milk and
+tinned butter, Californian “canned” vegetables and fruits, candles
+and lamps, oils of various kinds, firearms and gunpowder, hair-oil
+and brushes, wines and spirits, letter-paper and ledgers, books and
+framed pictures, cutlery of all sorts—from a penknife to a cutlass,
+or from a hair-pin to a harpoon—wine-glasses and tumblers, necklaces
+and brooches, crockery and physic: these, and a thousand
+other items, are all on hand, and appear at a moment’s notice.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>And as the store is the centre of all business, it is a general
+rendezvous; in fact, a sort of club, where pleasant cooling drinks
+are not unknown, and where much amusing gossip may be heard,
+for <i>that</i> is an article not unknown even in Tahiti!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Provisioning large vessels for long voyages is no easy matter
+here, where all animals have to be imported, as these beautiful
+hills and valleys afford very poor pasture-land, being all overrun
+with guava scrub. So shiploads of cattle are despatched from the
+Sandwich Isles, at very irregular intervals, by sailing ships, which
+sometimes are detained so long by contrary winds and calms, that
+the poor beasts are almost starved. The sheep are equally lean;
+and in fact, pork and fowls are about the only satisfactory meat-supply.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Thursday, 22d Nov.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is hard to think of you all, enduring the miseries of chill
+November, while we are revelling day after day, and night after
+night, in an atmosphere of balmy delight and clear blue heavens.
+Last night we all went to the admiral’s big reception, <i>au Gouvernement</i>,
+and a very gay scene it was, so many pretty women in very
+fresh, simple muslin sacques—only a few French ladies adhering
+to Parisian fashions. The ball-room has an excellent inlaid floor;
+and as the music is most enlivening, and the French naval officers
+enjoy dancing quite as much as any of the girls, they kept it up
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_274'>274</span>with great spirit. Of course the gardens are a very great attraction,
+and to the non-dancers are the favourite lounge. Good
+music, pleasant company, warm delicious nights, redolent of fragrant
+flowers—what more could you desire? Sometimes, when the
+band stops playing, we go for a moonlight row in the harbour, as
+far as the entrance through the barrier-reef, just for the pleasure of
+watching the breakers, and hearing their deafening roar.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning, soon after sunrise, M. Viennot called for me in
+his carriage, and drove me to Papawa, where he has built himself a
+tiny house, near a lovely bathing-place. We found all the mission
+families already assembled, with a few other friends, including M.
+Puèch, commanding Le Limier, a French man-of-war. He at once
+set his sailors to catch fish for our picnic; and after a preliminary
+luncheon, we all scattered, to bathe, or stroll, as the case might be.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I went off with a party of half-a-dozen handsome girls, of
+English and Tahitian birth, descendants of the early missionaries,
+whose children settled in the group, and married half-whites.
+They led the way to a delicious stream, narrow, and deep, and
+clear, and very still, edged with tall bulrushes. They supplied
+me with a bathing-dress like their own—namely, a <i>pareo</i> of crimson,
+or scarlet and white calico, which they wore very gracefully
+draped from the neck. They wove great wreaths of green fern to
+protect their heads from the sun, and, of course, did not neglect
+me in the distribution. I thought they formed a most picturesque
+group.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The stream was so inviting that we determined to follow it up
+for some distance. But the water, which at first only came to
+my shoulders, grew deeper and deeper, till I could not feel the
+ground, and I had to confess my inability to swim. So then these
+charming naiads clustered round me, and floated me smoothly
+along, as they swam a good half-mile to the upper stream. It
+was quite charming. Then they floated me back again, and by
+the time we rejoined the rest of the party, the sailors had caught
+a great supply of excellent little fish of many sorts, and we had a
+most merry feast, after which Commandant Puèch brought me
+home in his boat; and now I confess to being so tired, that I am
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_275'>275</span>going to bed, notwithstanding the attraction of a pleasant moonlight
+expedition in the admiral’s big barge.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Friday, 23d.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Seignelay returned to-day from the Marquesas and the
+Paumotu group. She has had a most delightful fortnight’s cruise,
+and my kind friends on board add to my poignant repentance for
+having refused to accompany them, by their regrets that I should
+have missed so excellent an opportunity. They had perfect
+weather. The voyage going and coming occupied just a week,
+during which they passed through the Paumotus. The other
+week was spent at different islands in the Marquesas, and they
+say that much of the scenery is like the island of Moorea, but
+greatly glorified. Now, as Moorea is the most unique and beautiful
+isle I have ever seen, you can imagine how grievous it is to
+think I should so stupidly have missed seeing one still more
+strange and lovely.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They also declare that the people are by far the finest race, and
+the most uncivilised savages, they have ever seen anywhere. They
+declare that many are still cannibal, and that all are tattooed all
+over the face and body, while many of the men are clothed only
+in a kilt of human hair. I think it possible that had they inspected
+this garment more closely, they might have discovered it to be
+made of the Rhizomorpha fibre—a glossy black parasitic weed,
+which is found in the forests, clinging to old trees by means of
+tiny suckers. It resembles coarse horse-hair, and in Fiji it is
+greatly valued as a kilt by warriors and dancers. So perhaps in
+this respect the Marquesans may not differ from our familiar
+Fijians. But there is no doubt that they are still in that very
+early stage of civilisation, which is most interesting to the traveller,
+before all distinctive angles have been rounded off—a process
+which, when once commenced, progresses with startling rapidity,
+to the total extinction of all individuality.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here in Tahiti, for instance, scarcely a trace remains of the
+aboriginal manners and customs, and it is impossible for the most
+vivid imagination to conjure up any sort of suggestion of Captain
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_276'>276</span>Cook’s Otaheiti. Not a trace of tattooing is now to be seen,
+though in olden days it was practised by almost all Tahitians,
+both men and women, simply as a personal adornment. Happily
+they seldom disfigured their faces, but the women tattooed their
+feet, up to the ankles, and marked bracelets on their arms and
+wrists. The men sometimes covered the whole body with intricate
+patterns, often gracefully drawn, as when a cocoa-nut palm was
+designed on the leg, or a bread-fruit tree, with twining vines, on
+the chest. Fishes and birds, flowers and fruits, spears and clubs,
+were favourite subjects; and sometimes a battle-piece, or the offering
+of sacrifice at the <i>marae</i>, were thus indelibly marked. In the
+character of subjects selected, the tattooing of Tahiti seems to have
+been nearer akin to that of Japan than of any other nation, though
+in this respect, as in all others, the Japanese lend to their work an
+artistic beauty of their own.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In all other groups, the patterns selected were generally stars
+or lines. By far the most elaborate designs are those of New
+Zealand and the Marquesas; but the former invariably adhere to
+curved lines or concentric circles, covering the whole face, while
+the latter make broad straight lines all over the body, with occasional
+designs of animals.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The only Marquesan whom I have seen here is most elaborately
+tattooed from head to foot, and I am told he is a fair type of his
+countrymen. All the Maoris whom we saw in New Zealand were
+so fully clothed, that I can only testify to the very finely marked
+intricate circles on the faces of the men, and the hideous blue lips
+of the women. In Samoa the men are so marked as apparently to
+be clothed in dark-blue-silk knee-breeches. In Tonga only the
+men were tattooed, the women never were. In Fiji, on the other
+hand, men were never tattooed; but, for women, a certain small
+amount was a compulsory religious act.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In all these countries so many idolatrous ceremonies were connected
+with the process, that it was invariably prohibited so soon
+as the people professed Christianity. In Japan, where it has
+hitherto been so practised as to be a really beautiful art, it has
+been declared illegal by the same police regulations which, greatly
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_277'>277</span>to the discomfort of the people, insist on every man being dressed
+from head to foot. But throughout the Christianised isles, including
+Tahiti, the prohibition was on the score of idolatry, and a law
+was passed, affixing a graduated scale of penalty for repeated
+offences; a man was condemned to make so many fathoms of road
+or of stone-work, and a woman to make so many mats, or so many
+fathoms of native cloth, for the use of the king and of the governor.
+Nevertheless, the desire to embellish nature was so great,
+that many were content to work out the penalty rather than forego
+the adornment.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There never was a better illustration of the old proverb, “Il faut
+souffrir pour être belle;” for it was necessarily a painful process,
+followed by swelling and inflammation, which often lasted for a
+considerable time, and sometimes even proved fatal. The process
+was simple: the victim of vanity was made to lie flat on the
+ground, while the artist sketched his design with charcoal on the
+skin, which was then punctured by little bundles of needles, made
+of the bones of birds or fishes, though human bones were preferred.
+Some were so arranged as to resemble the teeth of a saw, and were
+used in producing straight lines. Others had but one fine point
+for giving delicate finishing touches, and for working on such
+sensitive spots as could not endure the sharper pain. The needles
+having previously been dipped in a black dye, made from the
+kernel of the candle-nut, reduced to charcoal and mixed with oil,
+were struck sharply with a small hammer, thus puncturing the
+skin, carrying with them the dye, which, seen through the transparent
+and very silky skin, had the effect of being blue.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The custom of tattooing was certainly widespread. Herodotus
+has recorded its existence even among the Thracians, of whom he
+remarked that the “barbarians could be exceedingly foppish after
+their fashion. The man who was not tattooed amongst them was
+not respected.” If tattooing was in fashion so near Phœnicia, who
+knows but that those roving traders may have been the first to
+suggest to our fair-skinned forefathers the attractions of blue woad
+as high art decoration?</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Not only have such practices as tattooing died out in Tahiti,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_278'>278</span>but even the distinctive games of the people have apparently been
+forgotten,—at least I have seen none played. Yet in olden times
+there were many national sports; as, for instance, one which exactly
+answered to golf, and was played with sticks, slightly curved
+at one end, and a hard ball made of strips of native cloth. Football
+was formerly as popular in Tahiti as in Britain or Japan, the
+ball used being a large roll of the stalks of banana-leaves, firmly
+twisted together. The players were often women, twenty or thirty
+on each side; and in the scramble to seize the ball, there was as
+much rough sport as in any English public school. As the games
+were generally played on the beach, the ball was often thrown into
+the sea, and followed by the merry crowd with shouts and ringing
+laughter.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Boxing also found favour with the lower orders; and wrestling
+and archery were as highly esteemed in Tahiti as in Japan, and,
+moreover, were equally associated with religious festivals, which
+probably is the reason of their having fallen into disuse. The
+dresses worn by the archers, with their bows and arrows, were all
+considered sacred, and certain persons were appointed to keep
+them. Before the contest began, the archers went to the <i>marae</i>
+to perform certain religious ceremonies; and at the end of the
+game, they returned thither to change their dress, bathe, and restore
+their bow and arrows to their appointed keeper, before they
+could venture to eat, or to enter their own homes. The bows in
+use were about five feet in length; the arrows about three feet,
+and the distance to which they would fly was often about 300
+yards. They were never used in war, nor for shooting at a mark,
+as in Fiji.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Spear-throwing and slinging stones were games in which a target
+was always set up, and generally hit with precision; but these
+were exercises of war, in which the players had abundant practice.
+The slingers generally formed the advance-guard in battle, and
+often did much execution. The stones selected were about the
+size of a hen’s egg. The slings were made of finely braided cocoa-nut
+husk, or filaments of native flax, with a loop at one end for the
+hand, and at the other a place for the stone. In throwing, the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_279'>279</span>sling was stretched across the back, whirled round the head, and
+thus the missile was discharged with great force.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the game which always excited the keenest interest was
+wrestling. Here, as in Japan, the announcement of a wrestling-match
+brought together thousands both of men and women, all in
+their holiday garbs. The wrestlers, like the archers, first repaired
+to the <i>marae</i> to do homage to the gods; then entering the ring,
+which was generally on some grassy spot near the sea-shore, they
+fell to work in good earnest. Sometimes the wrestlers of one
+island challenged those of another; or else the challenge was from
+men of different districts. Their dress consisted only of a waist-cloth,
+and a coating of fresh oil. The moment a man was thrown,
+the friends of the conqueror commenced to dance and sing triumphantly
+with an accompaniment of drums; and as the vanquished
+party raised songs of defiance, the din must have been pretty
+considerable. However, it subsided the moment fresh wrestlers
+entered the ring, and the spectators watched the progress of the
+struggle in dead silence and with intense interest. When the
+contest was over, the wrestlers returned to the <i>marae</i> to present
+their offerings to the protecting gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Without looking back to classical times and Greek games, it
+seems strange, does it not, that these very uncivilised savages of
+the South Seas should have assigned to wrestling precisely the
+same religious importance as is bestowed on it by the Shintoists
+of Japan. Possibly both nations retained this sacred game as
+practised by their common Malay ancestors,<a id='r59'></a><a href='#f59' class='c017'><sup>[59]</sup></a> from whom, probably,
+both derived their custom<a id='r60'></a><a href='#f60' class='c017'><sup>[60]</sup></a> of offering savoury meats, and making
+acts of homage to their deceased relations; though the Japanese,
+either from inborn refinement or Chinese influence, place on their
+domestic shrine only the tablets of the dead; whereas the Tahitian
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_280'>280</span>preserved the ancestral skulls hidden in the roof of his
+house.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The perch for fowls,<a id='r61'></a><a href='#f61' class='c017'><sup>[61]</sup></a> so familiar in the neighbourhood of all
+Shinto temples in Japan, had its counterpart in the homes of the
+Tahitian chiefs; though the fowls here do not appear to have been
+consecrated to the gods, but trained for fighting. The native
+legends assert that cock-fighting was the most ancient native game,
+and the birds were reared and tended with the utmost care. No
+artificial spurs were used, and the belligerents were separated before
+either was injured. The fights came off at break of day, that
+the birds might be perfectly cool; and large crowds assembled to
+witness the contests, which sometimes were carried on for several
+mornings consecutively.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In tracing all manner of kindred customs in the isles of the
+North and South Pacific, I observe, amongst minor points, how
+very widespread is the passion for shampooing,—a friendly office
+which every old woman in the South Seas seems as ready to perform
+for the wearied wayfarer as is the professional blind man
+of Japan; involving an amount of manipulation which I should
+suppose to be truly odious, but to which many foreigners take
+kindly, and which seems to find favour in all Asiatic countries.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I take an especial interest in all such links as seem to connect
+these isles with Japan, because I have a pet theory of my own,
+that all these fair Polynesian islanders have drifted here by a
+circuitous route <i>viâ</i> the North Pacific. The commonly accepted
+notion is, that all the groups in the East Pacific have been peopled
+by Malays, who found their way here by a directly eastward
+migration. It is difficult, however, to imagine why they should
+have come so far, when, in coming from that direction, Australia
+and New Guinea lay so much nearer to them.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>If you open the map of the world and rule a transverse line,
+passing through the Sandwich Islands in the North Pacific and
+the Friendly Isles in the South, you will perceive that the groups
+lying to the east are the Navigators, Fiji, the Hervey Isles, Tahiti,
+the Paumotu, the Marquesan, the Austral Isles, and New Zealand,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_281'>281</span>every one of which is peopled by comparatively fair-skinned races,
+with hair which by nature is straight and black, although in many
+of the isles, as in Samoa, custom requires that it should be dyed or
+bleached, cut short and stiffened, so as to produce the effect of a
+wig. I am not sure if the spiral curls of the yellow-haired Tongans
+and Fijians are artificially produced, because I have never
+seen one individual of either race whose hair had not been dyed
+with coral-lime; but I know that a Samoan girl who refrains from
+“improving” nature, finds herself possessed of fine black tresses,
+as silky and as beautiful as those of any Italian maiden.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To the west of our line lies Melanesia, comprising the Marshall
+Isles, the Carolines, Solomon Isles, New Guinea, New Britain,
+New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and Australia. These, almost
+without exception, are peopled by dark-skinned races, repulsive in
+their ugliness, and with hair more or less woolly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All these lie between Eastern Polynesia and the Malay country,
+and there seems no reason whatever to account for those hardy
+little warriors passing by so many fertile isles, in search of the
+unknown region to the east. Surely it is more probable that,
+having first overrun Formosa, and then peopled Japan, they thence
+sailed to the Sandwich Isles, and so gradually made their way to
+the south. We know that in old days their vessels were very
+much better than those now commonly used by them; and the
+voyage from Japan to Hawaii, and thence to Tahiti, would have
+been by no means impossible, especially as the existing strong
+ocean-currents would naturally tend to draw any ship by this
+course.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is said that even a log of wood fairly launched on the Malay
+coast, would naturally drift by this circuitous water-way till it
+returned westward to the shores of New Guinea. A glance at a
+map of ocean-currents will, I think, make this plain to you.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I know that this theory is contrary to that generally entertained;
+but as the natives of Tahiti have always maintained that their
+ancestors came from Hawaii (to which they retain the strongest
+links of family affection, the principal families of the two groups
+being united to one another by ties of blood), I cannot understand
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_282'>282</span>why learned men should maintain that Hawaii must really mean
+Savaii in the Samoan group, concerning which the Tahitians know
+little or nothing, except what they have learned, by their visits to
+that group, in the character of native missionaries.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There are many points which seem to me in favour of the circuitous
+route <i>viâ</i> Japan; such, for instance, as the gradual deterioration
+in the art of tattooing, in which, beyond all question,
+Japan excels all other nations, and which in the Marquesas, Tahiti,
+New Zealand, and, I think, also in Hawaii, retained its graceful
+character, gradually falling off as it travelled westward to Fiji
+and Tonga. Many other points of similarity exist, such as the
+use of the honorific prefix O before proper names, as in Japan,
+O-yama (Respected mountain), or in addressing any person politely.
+Throughout Polynesia the same custom exists. Hence early travellers
+wrote of Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, as O-whyhee, O-taheiti, O-samoa;
+and the same with reference to names of persons.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another point which to me appears to support the theory of the
+circuitous movement is, that those best acquainted with Samoan
+matters assert that, beyond any doubt, the Ellice group, lying far
+to the <i>west</i> of Samoa, was peopled from thence. It is therefore
+only natural to infer that the tall, comely race of light copper-coloured
+people who inhabit the south-east coast of New Guinea
+(that is to say, due west from the Ellice Isles), probably reached
+those shores about the same period, and from the same direction.
+Their women are beautifully tattooed, and their language wonderfully
+resembles that of the Rarotongan teachers, who have come
+from the distant Hervey Isles to settle among them as pioneers,
+sent by the native mission in that far easterly group; in fact, many
+of their words are identical.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Again, it is a well-established fact that Fotuna and Aniwa, two
+of the southern New Hebrides, which lie due west of the Friendly
+Isles, were peopled by the descendants of a party of Tongans, who
+drifted thither in a large canoe and settled on these uninhabited
+isles. These islanders have retained their own language, and their
+children when born are very fair, but as they grow up they become
+almost as dark in colour as their Papuan neighbours. Their hair
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_283'>283</span>is of the Polynesian type, and some allow it to grow long and
+smooth by not dyeing it with lime.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yet another argument in favour of the migration having originally
+taken a northward course, lies in the physical development of
+the race. Surely it is easier to recognise a direct Malay ancestry
+for the warlike little Japanese, with their reverence for the sacred
+swords of their demigods, than for these stalwart Polynesians, with
+their firmly knit, muscular limbs, and stately yet graceful bearing.
+The race increased in stature, improved in feature, and enriched in
+colour on their southward way—circumstances doubtless due to
+more easy and luxurious lives, with better and more abundant
+food.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Beautiful as is the rich copper colour of these islanders, their
+own ideal of beauty, as showing pure blood, consists in possessing
+a very fair skin; and I have often been amused, when sketching,
+by their anxiety to be represented several shades lighter than
+nature, not from any wish to resemble foreigners, but evidently
+as embodying their tradition of good ancestry. They by no means
+despise the use of cosmetics to bring about so desirable a result:
+the Marquesan women, for instance, though naturally of a light
+copper colour, contrive to make their skin almost white by an
+application of the root of the papawa tree.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>That modifying circumstances may produce such changes, both
+in stature and complexion, is now, I suppose, generally admitted;
+in fact it is almost certain that in some cases where barren atolls
+(such as the Kingsmill or Gilbert group, on the equator) have from
+accidental circumstances been peopled by descendants of these
+splendid men they have degenerated beyond recognition, and are
+now a short, spare, and generally ugly race. Naturally, the change
+from unbounded supplies of nutritious vegetable diet—bread-fruit,
+bananas, cocoa-nut, yams, sugar, and all the luxuries of the tropics—to
+isles where a coarse meal, prepared from the woody fruit of the
+pandanus, is the only edible form of vegetable, has in due time
+produced this result. Therefore it seems perfectly reasonable to
+infer that the converse occurred when an under-fed aggressive race,
+engaged from their cradles in piracy and strife, found themselves
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_284'>284</span>at rest in these Capuan isles, and there yielded to the habits of
+indolent ease, which they so naturally engender.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yet to this day the chief characteristics of the Malays are common
+throughout Polynesia. In each of these groups a truly Asiatic
+code of wearisome, elaborate ceremonial is observed on every possible
+occasion; the smallest breach of etiquette is considered a
+crime; a joke of any sort, especially of the nature of “chaff,” is
+an unpardonable offence; in speech, flowery compliments which
+mean nothing and veil thought are the rule—slow, deliberate
+oratory, in which the best speaker is he who can talk for hours
+without touching his point, and then condense all he wishes to say,
+in a few pithy words.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All these islanders are distinguished by a natural grace and
+courtesy of manner—sometimes dignified, at others most winning;
+yet under extreme external politeness they have often nursed
+schemes of cold treachery and cruelty, which they have carried
+out unscrupulously to the bitter end. (I speak, of course, of the
+islanders as they were by nature, ere the mellowing, transforming
+influence of Christianity had dawned on the South Seas.) But to
+this hour the Polynesians, like the Malays, are, as a rule, careless,
+easy-going, impassive beings, generally light-hearted; all fatalists,
+as a matter of course; strangely indifferent to physical pain,
+whether endured by themselves or inflicted on others; but when
+once roused to fighting-pitch, wholly uncontrollable in their blind
+mad fury.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the strongest proof of their Malay descent lies in the similarity
+of their various languages, both to one another and to the
+mother tongue. It is not merely a likeness in general construction,
+but many words are almost identical, as you may gather at
+a glance from the following vocabulary. In short, the whole subject
+is extremely interesting, but is one which I must leave to the
+discussion of learned folk, whose wise disquisitions you can study
+at your leisure.</p>
+
+<table class='table1'>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='12'><span class='pageno' id='Page_285'>285</span></td></tr>
+  <tr>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>English.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Malay.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Niua and Vaté, New Hebrides.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>New Zealand.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Rotumah.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Fiji.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Tonga.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Samoa.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Raratonga.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Marquesas.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c022'><i>Tahiti.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt brt c022'><i>Hawaii.</i></th>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Heavens</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Langit</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rang</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rangi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lang</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Langi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ani</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ra’i</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Lani</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rain</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ujan</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Uas</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Utha</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Uha</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Ua</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fire</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Api</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Afi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Kapura</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Reh</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Bukawanga</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Afi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Afi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>A’i</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ahi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Auahi</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Ahi</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Head</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ulu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Uru</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Matenga</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Filou</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ndluna</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ulu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ulu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mimiti</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Upoko</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Upoo</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Po’o</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Eye</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Kanohi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Math</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mata</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Maka</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ear</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Telinga</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Teringa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Taringa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Falinga</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ndalingana</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Telinga</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Taringa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Taringa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Buaina</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tari’a</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Pepei ao</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Teeth</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nihi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nifo</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niho</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Al</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Batina</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nifo</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nifo</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ni’o</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niho</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niho</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Niho</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Arm</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ringa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Siu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lingana</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Iima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rima</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Lima</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Die</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mati</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Akia</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Oti</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Mate</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Pohe</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Make</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Come</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Omai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fano mai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Haere mai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Leum</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lako mai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Hau</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Omai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tae</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Amai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Haere mai</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Hele mai</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Stone</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Batu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fatu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Maka</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Hoth</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vatu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Maka</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ma’a</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Toka</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Kea</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>O fa’i</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Pohaku</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Water</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Wai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Voi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Wai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vai or Pape</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Uai</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Cocoa-nut</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nyu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>...</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Niu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Eehi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Haari</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Niu</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fish</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ikan</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>I’e</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>I’a</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ika</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>I’a</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Lawaia</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>House</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Bali</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fare</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Whare</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ri</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vale</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fale</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fale</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Are</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fae</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fare</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Hale</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Woman</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Perampuan</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fafine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Whahine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Hoien</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Alewa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fefine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fafine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vaine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vahine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vahine</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Wahine</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Man</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Orang</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tha</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tamata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tangata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Euata</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tane</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Kanaka</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Drink</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Minum</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inumia</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Iom</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ngunu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Inu</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Inu</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Canoe</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Sampan</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Waka</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Tafang</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Wanka</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Va’a</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Vaka</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Va’a</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt brt c023'>Kau</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class='table1'>
+  <tr><td class='c010' colspan='8'><span class='pageno' id='Page_286'>286</span></td></tr>
+  <tr><th class='c010' colspan='8'><span class='sc'>Here are the Numerals.</span></th></tr>
+  <tr>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>English.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Malay.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Samoa.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Fiji.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Rarotonga.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Marquesas.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt c023'><i>Tahiti.</i></th>
+ <th class='btt bbt blt brt c023'><i>Hawaii.</i></th>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>One</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Satu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tasi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Dua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ta’i</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tahi</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tahi</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Kahi</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Two</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Dua or Lua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rua</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Alua</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Three</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Talu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tolu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tola</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Toru</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tou</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Toru</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Akolo</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Four</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ha</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Va</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>A</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ha</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Aha</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Five</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Lima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ima</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Rima</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Alima</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Six</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Onoma</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ono</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Eono</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Seven</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Pitu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fitu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vita</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Itu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Fitu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Hitu</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Ahiku</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Eight</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Walu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Valu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ualo</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Valu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Vau</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Varu</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Auala</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Nine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Siwa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Iva</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Thewa</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Iua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Iva</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Iva</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Aiwa</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ten</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Sapuloh</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Sefulu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tine</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ngaulu</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Onohn’u</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ahuru</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>Umi</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Eleven</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Sepuloh dua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Sefulu Lua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Tine ka kua</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='blt c023'>Ta’au</td>
+ <td class='blt brt c023'>&#160;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Twenty</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Ruapuloh</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Lua Fulu</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Rua sang a vula</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Elua ngaulu</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>Eua onohu’u</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt c023'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='bbt blt brt c023'>Iwakalua</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XIX.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE IN PAPEETE—THE MARKET—CHURCHES—COUNTRY LIFE IN THE SOUTH SEAS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>The Red House, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, December 1st</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have had a very gay week, including several festivities on
+board the three French men-of-war now in harbour. On Saturday
+I was invited to dine on board Le Limier, with the Greens, Viennots,
+and Verniers. (In case your French fails you, I may remind
+you that a <i>limier</i> is a blood-hound; a fact which I only recollected
+on seeing canine heads on all the boats.) M. Puèch is a good
+friend of the French Protestant Mission, and his visit to Tahiti is
+a happy event for all its members. After a pleasant dinner, we
+sat on deck to hear the sailors sing, and then went off in small
+canoes for a nearer sight of the <i><span lang="fr">pêche à flambeaux</span></i>, which was going
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_287'>287</span>on in every direction near the reef—the flashing torches and dark
+figures of the fishermen forming a most picturesque scene.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another day we breakfasted on board Le Seignelay, and in the
+afternoon a large party assembled on La Magicienne to see the
+boat-races. A pretty sight, and seen from a beautiful and most
+luxurious ship.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On Wednesday, the admiral held his last reception at Government
+House, at which there was a very large attendance; and Mrs
+Brander had most mirthful dances here on Monday, and again last
+night. The latter was a farewell, and I fear that to many of the
+young folk it was really a very sorrowful one.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning we watched La Magicienne steam out of harbour
+on her way to Valparaiso. The admiral leaves a pleasant vice-governor
+in M. D’Oncieue de la Battye, who is happily allowed
+to retain the excellent band till the arrival of the new governor;
+when the Seignelay is to convey him and it to Valparaiso. So the
+Tahitians find some consolation in this arrangement.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I think our Sundays would seem to you rather a curious medley,
+so I will give you a sketch of to-day from morning till evening.
+I was, as usual, awakened at 5 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> by the chattering of many voices,
+as the boats discharged their cargoes of fruit and rainbow-coloured
+fish beneath my windows. It was an exquisite cloudless morning,
+and I was seized with a sudden impulse to follow the crowd to the
+market, which hitherto I had only seen in its deserted afternoon
+aspect.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Passing by roads which are called streets, but are rather shady
+bowers of yellow hybiscus and bread-fruit trees, I entered the covered
+market-place, where were assembled as gay a throng as you could
+wish to see, many of them dressed in flowing robes of the very
+brightest colours; for the people here assembled are chiefly <i>le
+peuple</i>, whose days of ceremonial mourning for their good old
+queen are drawing to a close; so the long tresses of glossy black
+hair, hitherto so carefully hidden within their jaunty little sailor
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_288'>288</span>hats, are now again suffered to hang at full length in two silky
+plaits, and hair and hats are wreathed with bright fragrant flowers
+of double Cape jessamine, orange-blossom, scarlet hybiscus, or
+oleander. Many wear a delicate white jessamine star in the ear
+in place of an ear-ring. The people here are not so winsome as
+those in remoter districts. Too much contact with shipping and
+grog-shops has of course gone far to deteriorate them, and take
+off the freshness of life; but a South Sea crowd is always made
+up of groups pleasant to the eye; and a party of girls dressed in
+long graceful sacques of pale sea-green, or delicate pink, pure
+white, or bright crimson, chatting and laughing as they roll up
+minute fragments of tobacco in strips of pandanus or banana to
+supply the inevitable cigarette, is always attractive.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The men all wear <i>pareos</i> of Manchester cotton stuff, prepared
+expressly for these isles, and of the most wonderful patterns.
+Those most in favour are bright crimson with a large white
+pattern, perhaps groups of red crowns on circles of white, arranged
+on a scarlet ground, or else rows of white crowns, alternating with
+groups of stars. A dark-blue ground with circles and crosses in
+bright yellow, or scarlet with yellow anchors and circles, also find
+great favour; and though they certainly sound “loud” when thus
+described, they are singularly effective. It is wonderful what a
+variety of patterns can be produced, not one of which has ever
+been seen in England. With these the men wear white shirts, and
+sailor’s hats, with bright-coloured silk handkerchiefs tied over them
+and knotted on the ear; or else a gay garland.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On entering the market, it struck me that many of the sellers
+must have taken up their quarters over-night, for their gay quilts
+and pillows lay near, as they sat on their mats snatching a hasty
+breakfast of fruit or raw fish.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The latter is always in favour. Little fish or big fish of certain
+sorts are swallowed with apparently the same delight as you might
+hail a basket of ripe cherries; in fact, a green banana-leaf full of
+skipping shrimps, is a dainty dish for any pretty maid, who
+crunches the wriggling creatures with her gleaming white teeth, or
+lets them hop down her throat with the greatest coolness.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_289'>289</span>The fish here offered for sale are of every sort and size and
+colour. Large silvery fish, flat fish; long narrow fish with prolonged
+snouts, excellent to eat; the <i>au</i> or needle-fish, with long
+sharp-pointed head; and gay scarlet and green and blue fishes of
+every colour of the rainbow. I have seen gaudy fish in many
+tropical seas, but nowhere such brilliancy as here. There are rock-fish
+of all sorts, bonito, good fresh-water salmon with white flesh,
+eels, mussels, turtle, clams, echini, prawns, red and white cray-fish,
+&#38;c., &#38;c. Sometimes the market has a fair supply of poultry,
+turkeys, fowls, pigeons, and wild duck,—generally a few live pigs,
+which are carried hanging from a pole and squealing pitifully.
+They are very good, and clean feeders, being allowed to wander
+at large, and find themselves in cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. The
+enterprising Chinamen, as usual, improve the vegetable supply,
+especially in the matter of what I venture to call Christian potatoes,
+in opposition to the indigenous potato, <i>alias</i> yam.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Every one brings to the morning market whatever he happens
+to have for sale. Some days he has a large stock-in-trade, sometimes
+next to nothing. But, be it little or be it much, he divides it
+into two lots, and slings his parcels or baskets from a light bamboo-pole
+which rests across his shoulder, and, light as it is, often
+weighs more than the trifles suspended from it,—perhaps a few
+shrimps in a green leaf are slung from one end, and a lobster from
+the other, or, it may be, a tiny basket of new-laid eggs balanced by
+half-a-dozen silvery fishes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But often the burden is so heavy that the pole bends with the
+weight—of perhaps two huge bunches of mountain bananas—and
+you think how that poor fellow’s shoulder must have ached as he
+carried his spoil down the steep mountain-path from the cleft in
+the rugged rock where the <i>faees</i> had contrived to take root. These
+resemble bunches of gigantic golden plums. As a bit of colour
+they are glorious, but as a vegetable I cannot learn to like them,—which
+is perhaps as well, as the native proverb says that the
+foreigner who does appreciate <i>faees</i>, can never stay away from
+Tahiti.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As you enter the cool shady market you see hundreds of those
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_290'>290</span>golden clusters hanging from ropes stretched across the building,
+and great bunches of mangoes and oranges. These last lie heaped
+in baskets, among cool green leaves. Sometimes a whole laden
+bough has been recklessly cut off. Pine-apples, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts,
+all are there, and baskets of scarlet tomatoes, suggestive of
+cool salads.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But tempting above all are the luscious mangoes, whose thin
+skins are ready to burst at a touch, and yield their treasure of
+delight to thirsting lips. Purple, or golden, or pale yellow, long-shaped
+or egg-shaped, I know not which to prefer; each in turn
+seems more delicious than any other, and the only difficulty is to
+stop feasting before the basket is empty! If Tahiti owns no other
+debt of gratitude to France, she at least has to thank a French
+governor for this excellent fruit, which is now so thoroughly
+acclimatised, that it has attained a perfection rarely equalled in
+any other country, and, moreover, grows so luxuriantly and bears
+fruit so abundantly, as to form an important item in the food of
+the people.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Returning from the market to a pleasant early breakfast on the
+cool verandah, I rested in luxurious quiet till the bells of the
+Roman church close by, summoned the faithful to the nine o’clock
+service, which I generally attend, in preference to walking in the
+heat to the large native Congregational church—“<i>le temple Protestant</i>”—where
+the long service, in a tongue to me unknown, is a
+weariness of flesh and spirit. Moreover, it lacks the picturesque
+element which was to me so attractive in the simple Fijian
+churches, where soft mats are the only furnishings required.
+Here the congregation are penned in hideous pews, which make
+it difficult, if not impossible, to kneel—a natural attitude of
+worship, which, in the early days of Tahitian Christianity, was as
+common as it now is in Fiji, but from which the modern Tahitians
+refrain in church, as savouring of Romish ritual!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At the Catholic church, the bishop preaches half in French, half
+in Tahitian, that all his hearers may carry away some message in
+their own tongue; and the singing by the French Sisters and their
+school-children is always sweet and harmonious. I cannot say the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_291'>291</span>congregation is large—merely a small handful of natives; such of
+the French as are compelled to be present at all, having already
+been in official attendance at the eight o’clock military Mass,
+which is to me a very distasteful form of worship. I think that
+good Père Collet looks on me as rather a hopeful convert; but I
+tell him I only appear as the representative of my naval friends,
+who all consider church-going in any form as altogether unnecessary,
+neither officers nor sailors ever attending service since our
+arrival here.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After church, we went to breakfast on board Le Seignelay, and
+then to see Queen Marau, whom we escorted to the Government
+House gardens, where we were joined by several friends. The
+great attractions there are two newly arrived Russian bears,
+passengers by Le Limier—nice brown beasts, and very tame.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned here just in time for the family dinner, from which,
+as usual, Mrs Brander and I made our way to the evening service
+at the little Congregational chapel, at which only a tiny handful
+of the foreign residents assemble. All the members of the Protestant
+mission officiate by turns, in French or English; and this
+evening M. Vernier conducted the service in admirable English.
+But a strong counter-attraction is offered by the pleasant gardens,
+where the band always reserves its most attractive programme for
+Sunday night; and we catch tempting snatches of lovely operatic
+airs as we walk homeward by the hybiscus-shaded lanes.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa Valley</span>, <i>Thursday, 6th Dec.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Last Monday the whole party moved out from Papeete to this
+lovely country-home. It is a delightful bungalow, built by Mr
+Brander—a cool one-storeyed house, with wide shady verandahs; a
+pleasant garden, bright with summer flowers; masses of cool shade;
+and a clear, beautiful river, which affords a dozen delightful bathing-places
+of varied depth, so that every one can select a spot according
+to his own heart’s desire. All the family and their friends
+can swim like fishes, so of course they prefer the deep pools, and
+have a favourite spot just below the house, where they disport
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_292'>292</span>themselves joyously at all hours of the day; and the first hospitable
+offer made to callers, is that of a <i>pareo</i> and towels, that they
+may at once enjoy this most refreshing luxury.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I, being a foolish non-swimmer, and moreover somewhat ungregarious,
+have discovered a bathing paradise for myself some way
+further up the stream, where the interlacing boughs of cool blue-grey
+hybiscus foliage form an immense arbour—a dressing-room of
+leafy shade, through which the gurgling waters flow gently, with
+rippling, liquid, most musical tones—the voice of hidden streams.
+Here a rivulet leaves the main river, and its sparkling waters play
+over a thick velvety carpet of the softest, greenest mosses, forming
+the most delightful couch you can imagine; while from the leafy
+canopy overhead drop pale lemon-coloured blossoms, which float
+idly down the stream; and from the wild guava bushes I can pluck
+any number of ripe guavas, or, to be still more luxurious, I may
+gather luscious mangoes on my way from the house. Can you
+wonder that so fascinating a bower is not only my first attraction
+at early dawn, but a favourite retreat at all hours? Sometimes I
+end the evening with a moonlight bathe, but am inclined to think
+that this is imprudent, as it is always followed by a feeling of chill,
+though the water and air both feel warm and delicious.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>My hostess has presented me with a couple of sacques like those
+worn by all Tahitian ladies. They are the perfection of dress in
+this climate, being so delightfully cool. They are literally flowing
+garments, for they only touch you at the shoulders, and thence fall
+in long loose folds. So when the first ray of light gilds the high
+mountains in which this lovely valley lies embosomed, I slip on one
+of those simple dresses, and start barefoot across the dewy lawn and
+by the grassy paths that lead to the stream. Going barefoot is only
+a preliminary stage of bathing, for the grass is saturated with moisture,
+and an early walk across a field is about equivalent to walking
+knee-deep through a river.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Curiously enough, it is to this heavy night-dew that the royal
+family of Tahiti owe their name of Pomare, which literally means
+“night cough.” About four generations back the king chanced to
+be sleeping on the mountains and exposed to the penetrating dew
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_293'>293</span>which brought on a troublesome cough. His followers spoke of
+the <i>po mare</i>, and the sound of the words pleased the royal ear; and
+thenceforth the king adopted this euphonious but singular surname,
+which has since been borne by each crowned head.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This very odd custom of adopting a name to commemorate some
+simple event, was common to a good many of the isles. Mr Gill
+mentions such names as “Lost son,” adopted by the king of Mangaia
+when his son had been stolen; a title retained long after the
+lad had been restored. Another man took the name of “Deal-coffin,”
+because a relation had been buried in a sailor’s chest. One
+chief desired to be always called “Press me,” because those words
+had been uttered by a dying grandchild when in pain; and another
+was called “Dim-sight,” because his grandfather suffered from weak
+eyes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This pleasant country-home is about three miles from Papeete,
+and various carriages are ready after early breakfast to convey the
+gentlemen to town, whence some return to late breakfast, others not
+till dinner-time. But all day long, people come and go on divers
+errands of business or pleasure; and the drive is so pretty as to be
+in itself quite an enjoyment. In short, life here is altogether easy
+and luxurious, combined with most captivating simplicity.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The already large family party has been increased by the arrival
+of a third big brother, Ariipaea, who has been for some time living
+on another of the islands. Mrs Salmon and the pretty young
+sisters, and several friends, are also staying here, a most loving
+“family-pie.” To Narii this happy valley has an additional charm,
+for it is also the home of a certain charming “Mademoiselle Cécile,”
+whom he hopes ere long to include in the family circle.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>the Rev. James Green, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Friday Evening</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning early, Ariipaea drove me here, where it had been
+arranged that I should meet M. Brun, the <i>pasteur</i> of Moorea, and
+accompany him to his beautiful isle. We were to have taken passage
+in one of a small fleet of Moorea boats, which arrived here
+some days ago in order to build a district house, which shall henceforth
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_294'>294</span>be the regular headquarters of all Mooreans who have occasion
+to visit Papeete. The house was finished this morning, and the
+event was notified by a most deafening beating of native drums,
+after which all the boats set sail, very sensibly objecting to lose the
+fair breeze by any delay. M. Brun arrived in time to see them flying
+before the wind, like a flight of white butterflies.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I solaced myself by commencing a careful study of a noble bread-fruit
+tree, overshadowing Queen Moë’s house, when suddenly a cry
+was raised that an English man-of-war was signalled. Great was
+the excitement that prevailed, as it is fully four years since the
+British ensign was last seen in this harbour, and there was a general
+chorus of disappointment when it was found that the visitor was only
+a small sloop, H.M.S. Daring; a disappointment, however, which
+was followed by great rejoicing, when it became known that she
+was the forerunner of H.M.S. Shah, Admiral de Horsey’s flag-ship,
+which is to arrive here in a few days. Already the small society of
+the place is in a ferment at the prospect of so important a visitor;
+and the arrival of about fifty English officers will compensate for
+the departure of the French flag-ship. So all manner of hospitalities
+are already under discussion, as we gathered from the general
+conversation at the band this evening.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I shall leave this letter to go by H.M.S. Daring, in case she sails
+before I return from Moorea; so shall bid you good-bye for the
+present.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XX.<br> <span class='c009'>VISIT TO THE PROTESTANT MISSION ON MOOREA—A SKETCH OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE MISSION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Madame Brun, Papetoai, Moorea</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, 8th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am safely ensconced in this most charming little home, and
+very glad indeed to have reached it, for we have had rather a
+tiring day. Mrs Green most kindly gave me breakfast at five, that
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_295'>295</span>I might be ready for a six o’clock start; but it was fully eight
+before we got away, in a Haapiti boat, which agreed to bring us to
+this side of the island. We rowed out of harbour, hoping to catch
+a breeze, but it fell dead calm, and for four long hours we lay just
+outside the reef, rocked by heavy rollers—the water smooth as oil,
+and the burning heat of the sun so intense that I almost expected
+that the water would really frizzle! The thermometer at this season
+sometimes rises to 120° in the shade. I am afraid that if the truth
+must be confessed, both M. Brun and I were exceeding sea-sick.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At last, to our great relief, a fresh breeze sprang up, and our little
+boat literally flew over the water, and in less than two hours carried
+us across to the pretty village of Tiaia, in the district of Teaharoa,
+whence one hour’s rowing inside the reef, along the most lovely
+shore, brought us here, where we were welcomed to this sweet
+French home by its pretty clever little mistress, and three charmingly
+old-fashioned children, Lucie, Henri, and Adrien, who administered
+refreshing hot tea to the tired and giddy travellers; after
+which I, for one, yielded to peaceful sleep, and awoke to find the
+watchful little trio all ready to escort me in any direction, and show
+me such treasures of delight as only true country children can discover.
+This is a fairy-like nest, on the shore of the loveliest sea
+lake, with wooded mountains all round, and a background of mighty
+rock-pinnacles, which are glorified in this evening light, and seem
+like the towers and ramparts of some celestial city.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Sunday, 9th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>To me this has been a day of intense peace. A silence which
+may be felt seems to enfold this exquisite spot, and from morning
+till evening not a ripple has disturbed the perfect calm of the blue
+waters—only the light fronds of the cocoa-palms quiver and gleam
+with every faint breath of air.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The village is perhaps a quarter of a mile from the house, and
+lies buried in a thicket of bread-fruit and mango-trees. There my
+hosts have spent the greater part of the day, having held four
+church services, and morning and afternoon school. But I have
+rejoiced in a day of quiet idleness, spent chiefly on the lovely shore
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_296'>296</span>beneath the shadow of very large trees, whose great boughs overhang
+the white coral beach,—shell-strewn and crab-haunted. At
+high tide the silvery waters creep upward till the far-spreading
+roots are half bathed in the brine, while the other half are buried
+in a tangle of lilac marine convolvulus, wherein myriads of hermit-crabs
+disport themselves.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Madame Valles came to breakfast. She is the daughter of that
+dear old lady Mrs Simpson, of whose death I told you in a former
+letter. Her husband is a retired French naval officer, who has
+settled in this beautiful valley as a planter.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This evening several members of the congregation met here to
+hold a prayer-meeting, after which they sang most harmonious
+sacred <i>himènes</i>—the very first I have heard since I was last on
+Moorea.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have rarely in any land seen a nicer and more thoroughly
+respectable-looking body of people than these; so gentle and courteous
+in their manners, and apparently so reliable. I fancy that in
+this secluded isle the people have retained more of their primitive
+Christianity than they have done in Papeete, where French influence
+and utter infidelity are continually acting as a leaven of evil,
+and where the fervour of first love is certainly a thing of the past,
+as regards the mass of the population.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Such at least is my own impression, seeing only the surface of
+life, and naturally comparing things here with the very high standard
+now existing in Fiji, which has been my home for the last two
+years. The impulsive children of the South Seas are readily influenced
+for good or for evil; and as they quickly and whole-heartedly
+turned from their idols to embrace the purer faith taught them by
+devout white men, so now they are in danger of becoming even
+more careless than the average foreigners. I do not, however, mean
+to imply that the Tahitians or any of the islanders who have once
+adopted Christianity, have yet fallen away from its practice, so far
+as the bulk of the people in any European nation. In such matters
+as meeting for family prayer, and thanksgiving at meals, probably a
+much larger proportion of Tahitians than of Britons are still true to
+their early teaching.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_297'>297</span>It really is very difficult, in presence of such peaceful, kindly
+people, and such settled forms of civilised Christian life, to realise
+what different scenes were witnessed by the earlier visitors of this
+lovely isle at the time of its discovery by Captain Wallis in 1767,
+and Captain Cook’s subsequent visit.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was in March 1797 that the first band of missionaries arrived
+here in the Duff, landing on Tahiti near Point Venus, where at
+first they were kindly welcomed by King Pomare, Queen Idia, and
+the chiefs, who seem to have expected that they would prove not
+merely sources of wealth, by distributing barter, but also able
+assistants in the art of war.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But when the new-comers were found to be men of peace, and
+their mission that of teaching, they soon fell in the estimation of
+the natives, and for many years they struggled, apparently in vain,
+to stem the tide of idolatry and of such evil practices as infanticide
+and the offering of human victims to the feather-gods, as the
+Tahitians called their idols, because they were generally adorned
+either with the scarlet feathers of a small bird, or the long tail-feathers
+of the man-of-war or tropic bird.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As quicksilver attracts gold, so was it supposed that this gay
+plumage became the very incarnation of the god; therefore, when
+a tribe went forth to war (and of course desired that the presence
+of their god should be with them) they held a solemn service at
+the temple, and then took perhaps only one feather from off the
+principal idol, and placed it in the ark prepared for it on the sacred
+canoe, which formed part of every fleet. Then, till the close of
+that expedition, all worship was addressed only to the feather-symbol,
+and no sacrifices or prayers were offered at the <i>marae</i>,
+lest the attention of the god being divided, he should return to
+the land, forsaking the warriors.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At other times, however, he was present alike at every domestic
+shrine which possessed a feather brought from the great temple.
+For, as other nations have carried sacred symbolic fire from the
+altar, to sanctify their domestic hearth or their family temple, so
+did these Tahitians year by year assemble at the great national
+temple, bringing with them offerings of the precious feathers.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_298'>298</span>These the priests deposited inside the hollow idols, distributing
+among the worshippers those which had lain there since the previous
+year, thereby imbibing such essence of sanctity as to convey
+the very presence of the god wherever they were carried.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Not that those were the only visible symbols of the gods. Some
+appeared to their worshippers in the form of sharks; others, less
+terrible, took the form of divers birds. Hence, as I described to
+you in one of my letters from Samoa, so here in Tahiti and Moorea,
+the herons, kingfishers, and woodpeckers which frequented the old
+trees round the temples, were reverenced as incarnations of the
+deities, and their cries were interpreted as oracles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So strong was the hold of these superstitions, that for several
+years the mission seemed to make little or no progress beyond the
+establishment of gardens in which various imported fruits and
+vegetables were successfully raised, and the people were taught to
+cultivate them systematically for their own use. Orange-trees,
+limes, shaddocks, citrons, tamarinds, guavas, custard-apples, peaches,
+figs and vines, pine-apples and water-melons, pumpkins and cucumbers,
+cabbages and other vegetables, were thus first introduced to
+the island, where they are now so thoroughly acclimatised.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But in an evil hour a great intertribal war broke out for the
+bodily possession of Oro, the national idol, and this first civilising
+influence was swept away—the mission premises were laid waste,
+the garden entirely destroyed, and the work of twelve years
+scattered to the winds.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>King Pomare, Otu his son, and all the chiefs and warriors of the
+isle, had assembled at the great <i>marae</i> at Atehuru, where many
+fatted pigs were offered on the altar, while the surrounding trees
+were adorned with the ghastly corpses of human victims, all of whom
+had been sacrificed to Oro. The ark containing the symbolic feather
+was then placed on the sacred canoe belonging to the royal fleet.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But on the following day Otu pretended to have had a revelation
+that the idol itself wished to be removed to Tautira; and on the
+chiefs of Atehuru refusing to allow this, his followers rushed to
+the temple, seized the idol, carried it off to the sea, and immediately
+set sail. As soon as they reached land a human sacrifice was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_299'>299</span>ordered, lest Oro should resent this very cavalier treatment; and
+as no captive was at hand, one of the king’s own servants was
+slain, and offered as an atonement. Of course the despoiled chiefs
+flew to arms, and prepared to revenge themselves, and recapture
+their god. About 300 warriors came from the isle of Eimeo, now
+called Moorea, to the aid of the king, and bloody battles were
+fought, in which the chiefs’ army was almost invariably successful.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>There does not appear to have been any trace of cannibalism on
+either side, but the bodies of the slain were offered in sacrifice to
+Oro by the victors; while, on the other hand, the king’s party did
+not cease offering human sacrifices, and propitiating the idol by
+every means in their power. It was recaptured by the chiefs of
+Atehuru, who, however, with singular religious chivalry, allowed
+the king to land and deposit his offerings near the temple, though
+they naturally would not admit him within its precincts.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Happily for the mission party, it so happened that just at this
+crisis a trading vessel came into harbour and landed some men;
+and about the same time another small vessel was driven ashore,
+with a crew of seventeen Englishmen. Thus they mustered a force
+of twenty-three Europeans, who not only put the mission-house
+into a state of defence, but lending their aid to the king, rendered
+him material aid—a service which they must have regretted on
+seeing that all prisoners of war were immediately put to death,
+and their bodies savagely mutilated. Finally, the chiefs agreed to
+resign the custody of the idol to the king; and so, for a while,
+ended one of the many bloody struggles by which the various
+nations of the earth have drained their heart’s blood for the possession
+of some bit of so-called sacred wood or bone.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thenceforward the young King Otu carried the precious god
+with him, whenever he sailed from one isle to another; and the
+sacred canoe on which its ark was borne, was always deposited at
+some <i>marae</i> shaded by sombre trees, from whose boughs human
+victims offered sacrificially were immediately suspended.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While such scenes as these were the incidents of daily life, the
+mission party had hardships enough to contend with. Five whole
+years elapsed without either letters or supplies reaching them from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_300'>300</span>England. Their clothes were worn out, boots or shoes were wellnigh
+forgotten superfluities; tea and sugar were among the luxuries
+of the past. At last a small vessel arrived, specially chartered to
+bring the letters and supplies which had for so long been accumulating
+at Port Jackson. Imagine the rapture of seeing that little
+vessel arrive; and then the dismay of discovering that almost
+everything she had brought was either useless from having lain so
+long at Port Jackson, or saturated with salt water owing to the
+wretched condition of the ship. You who live in luxury at home,
+with everything of the best, and plenty of it, and with so many
+daily posts as to be a positive nuisance, cannot possibly realise
+the weariness of that long waiting, or the depth of that disappointment.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nor was there anything cheering in daily life. The mission
+work seemed to make no progress at all; the people openly mocked
+the white men, and despised their teaching.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In 1808 war broke out again more savagely than before. The
+altars of Oro reeked with human blood; villages were burnt,
+plantations destroyed, and the whole country reduced to desolation
+and ruin. The mission settlement was ransacked, the houses
+burnt, the books distributed among the warriors to be used as
+cartridge-paper, the printing-types melted to make musket-balls,
+and every implement of iron found on the place was converted
+into a destructive weapon. The gardens were again demolished,
+and the students, finding the din of war more congenial than the
+arts of peace, joined their brethren in arms.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Finally, feeling that their lives were in imminent danger, and
+that there was apparently nothing to be gained by remaining, the
+mission party resolved to abandon Tahiti; and taking advantage
+of a vessel which happily arrived in harbour, they embarked for
+Port Jackson, two only, Mr Hayward and Mr Nott, resolving to
+remain at their several posts and face the worst—the former at
+Huahine, the latter at Eimeo, to which King Pomare had fled
+from his enemies. Various attempts were made on their lives,
+happily without fatal result; and they continued to work as best
+they could till the year 1812, when, at the invitation of King
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_301'>301</span>Pomare, those who had been driven away from Tahiti returned,
+and made a fresh effort to establish the mission on Eimeo.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They were cordially welcomed by the king, and by a small
+number of chiefs, who, by Pomare’s words and example, had been
+brought to look with contempt on their idols, and to incline towards
+the new faith; and though greatly distracted by intertribal
+wars, this little company resolved to build a substantial house
+which should be set apart for the worship of the true God. Thus
+in the summer of 1813 was the first Christian church in the
+group erected in Papetoai, the very place whence I now write.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thirty persons came forward to make public profession of their
+faith, desiring to have their names enrolled as having rejected idol-worship.
+Among those who did so was Patii, the high priest of
+the district, who came to Mr Nott, and announced his intention of
+publicly burning all the idols in his care. It was a promise heard
+with thankfulness not unmingled with dread, for there was every
+probability that such an act would lead to wild excitement among
+the heathen, and might possibly result in a massacre of the Christians.
+However, Patii had made up his mind, and at the appointed
+hour he and his friends collected a heap of fuel on the sea-shore,
+near the huge <i>marae</i> where he had so often offered human
+sacrifices to these dumb idols, which he now brought forth, and
+tearing off the sacred cloth in which they had hitherto been draped,
+he exhibited them in their hideous nakedness, to the vast multitudes
+who had hitherto assembled at his bidding to do them
+homage, and who had now come to witness this act of impious
+sacrilege.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Some of these ugly little gods were rudely carved human figures,
+and some had tiny figures carved in relief all over one large image;
+others were shapeless logs of wood, covered with finely braided
+cocoa-nut fibre and scarlet feathers; while some were angular
+columns of basalt, quite rough, just as they had been found. One
+by one were these once dreaded idols cast into the flames by their
+former priest, who called on the people to behold their helplessness,
+and bewailed his own folly in having hitherto worshipped such
+monstrous objects.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_302'>302</span>Whatever may have been the feelings of the spectators, the
+dreaded tumult was averted, and the people dispersed quietly;
+indeed the example thus given was followed by many, both on
+Eimeo (it is now called Moorea) and also on Tahiti, to which two
+members of the mission—Messrs Scott and Hayward—now again
+ventured to cross. Great was their joy when they found that
+several of the natives had renounced idolatry and were earnest
+worshippers of Christ, having been awakened by some words of
+King Pomare to an exceeding longing for a better faith and purer
+life than that of their fathers. Glimmerings of light had also found
+their way to the Paumotu and other neighbouring isles, and by the
+close of 1814 there was reason to believe that a total of nearly 600
+persons had renounced idol-worship and were feeling their way
+towards the Light.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Naturally, such a movement was not viewed with satisfaction
+by the great mass of the people. Everywhere the Christians were
+persecuted by their heathen neighbours, who burnt their houses,
+destroyed their gardens, spoiled their goods, and even hunted them
+down, that they might offer them in sacrifice to the insulted gods.
+At all times it was customary to tell off certain families or tribes,
+from which the appointed victim-hunters were to select fit subjects
+for sacrifice; and so numerous were those thus eligible, that on
+some isles about one-third of the population lived in terror for their
+lives, not knowing at what moment their doom might be sealed.
+In many cases whole families forsook their homes secretly, and
+started in their frail canoe to seek a new home on some unknown
+isle, preferring to risk the dangers of the sea, and the chance of
+being eaten by strangers, to the certainty that sooner or later their
+turn must come to be offered in sacrifice to their cruel gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>How this terrible doom first came to be attached to any family
+I cannot say, but, once decided, there was no escape. From generation
+to generation the black shadow hung, like the sword of
+Damocles, over each member, from the grey grandfather to the
+mere stripling. As he went about his daily work, chatting with
+his most trusted neighbours, one of the latter might open his hand
+and reveal the small sacred stone which was his death-warrant,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_303'>303</span>delivered by the priest to the man who craved some special boon,
+as a symbol that the god required a human sacrifice. Well did the
+doomed man know how useless was resistance. His neighbours
+knew no pity, and a brief struggle invariably resulted in his being
+clubbed and carried to the <i>marae</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now the supply of victims was furnished from among those
+known to favour the new faith; and many a pathetic story is still
+told of the unflinching courage with which those brave martyrs
+met their fate, only pleading with their murderers that they too
+should renounce their idols and worship the living God.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As in the early days of the Church, so now, homes were
+divided: the believing wife was beaten by her heathen husband,
+children were driven from their parents’ roofs, and friends were
+turned to foes—all in the name of the gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Those who worshipped the Saviour were distinguished by the
+name of Bure Atua (from <i>bure</i>, to pray, and <i>Atua</i>, God).</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In spite of the persecution, their numbers steadily increased, and
+at last three of the principal chiefs of Tahiti, who had hitherto
+been sworn foes, resolved to unite their forces for the total annihilation
+of the Bure Atua sect. A midnight meeting was appointed
+when the conspirators were suddenly to fall on their sleeping,
+unsuspecting neighbours, and slaughter great and small. Happily,
+a few hours before the massacre was to have taken place, the Christians
+received a secret hint of what was in store for them, and
+were able to reach the shore, launch their canoes, and sail for
+Eimeo. When, at the midnight hour, their foes reached the
+trysting-place, and found their victims flown, their rage knew no
+bounds, and angry recriminations commenced, which soon passed
+on to blows, ending in a free fight, in which one of the principal
+chiefs was killed, and his followers compelled to fly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In those turbulent days, it needed but a beginning to kindle a
+fierce war, and so it now proved. The heathen tribes having fallen
+out amongst themselves, seemed to forget their enmity to the Christians,
+and fought blindly among themselves. Beautiful and richly
+cultivated districts were reduced to desolation, houses burnt and
+property plundered, and numbers of the vanquished fled to Eimeo,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_304'>304</span>to join the king and his party. Finally the weaker tribes fled to
+rocky fortresses in the mountains, leaving one tribe—the Oropaa—masters
+of the whole island.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These presently sent messengers to those who had taken refuge
+in Eimeo, inviting them to return to their homes in Tahiti. This
+they agreed to do; but, according to native custom, King Pomare
+accompanied them to reinstate them in their lands. With him
+came a very large train of followers, who were chiefly Christians,
+and when they approached the shore of Tahiti, the pagan party
+refused to let them land. However, that point was yielded.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On the following Sunday, about 800 of the king’s party assembled
+for divine worship. Happily they had taken the precaution
+of assembling armed, for in the middle of service a firing of
+muskets was heard, and a large body of men, bearing the flags of
+the gods, and all emblems of idolatry, were seen marching towards
+the place where they were assembled. Very striking is the story
+of that day’s contest. When the enemy was seen approaching,
+King Pomare arose and bade all remember that they were under
+the special protection of Jehovah, and that, having met to worship
+Him, they must not be diverted from their purpose. So all stood
+up to sing the accustomed hymn, then knelt in united prayer.
+They then formed themselves into three columns, the women
+taking their place among the men, resolved, like them, to fight
+with spear and musket. Thus they awaited the attack of the foe.
+The battle-field was a strip of ground between the sea and the
+mountains, covered with patches of brushwood. Under cover of
+these, the Christians again and again throughout the day knelt by
+twos and by threes to crave the help of the Almighty. After some
+hours of desperate fighting, Upufara, the highest chief of the
+heathen, was killed. His party were so disheartened that a panic
+seized them, and they fled from the field, never pausing till they
+reached their strongholds in the mountains.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thus the king’s party remained in undisputed possession, and
+prepared, as in old days, to follow up their victory. But King
+Pomare had learnt a new lesson in war. He forbade any of his
+people to pursue the vanquished, or to enter their villages, either
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_305'>305</span>to plunder the gardens or molest their wives and families. He,
+however, selected a trustworthy force, and bade them march to
+Tautira, to the temple of Oro, and totally destroy both temple and
+idol, and everything connected with the old worship. At eventide
+he bade the chiefs call together the congregation which had been
+so ruthlessly disturbed in the morning, and all knelt together in
+solemn thanksgiving for their great deliverance from so strong a
+foe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The party whom he had despatched on so righteous a mission of
+destruction, carried out his orders implicitly. They turned neither
+to the right hand nor the left, till they reached Tautira, where
+they fully expected that the priests and people would make a stand
+in defence of their gods. They, however, met with no opposition
+from the crowds, who stood silently round while they entered the
+temple, hitherto held so sacred, and bringing out the idol, stripped
+him of his coverings, and exposed a rude unhewn log, about six
+feet long, of casuarina wood. Having utterly destroyed the temples,
+altars, and other idols, they carried off the rude log which for so
+many years had been the national god of Tahiti, and for the possession
+of which the land had, during the last thirty years, been made
+desolate by incessant wars. It was now turned to better use as a
+post in the king’s kitchen from which to suspend baskets of food.
+Eventually it was cut up for firewood.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The effect of the king’s clemency to the vanquished was magical.
+At first it seemed to them utterly incomprehensible; but when,
+under cover of night, some ventured from their hiding-places, and
+found their homes and families all undisturbed, and learnt that the
+bodies of the slain had received honourable burial, instead of being
+given to the dogs and pigs, and that the king had proclaimed a
+free pardon to all, then one by one they came down from the
+mountains to tender their submission to the merciful conqueror,
+and to learn from him the secret of such new principles. Then
+they agreed that the faith which inspired such deeds was assuredly
+the best, and with one accord they determined to destroy all their
+idols, and desired that the king would send messengers to instruct
+them in the good way.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_306'>306</span>Accordingly, those who had themselves been most diligent in
+learning, were sent to teach these new inquirers, and proved faithful
+and earnest in their work. But so great was the demand for
+teachers, that they were altogether unable to meet it; and in many
+a remote village, the people, having destroyed their idol temple,
+built a new house of prayer, where they met together to worship
+the God of the Christians, concerning whom they as yet knew
+so little, beyond the mercy practised by His followers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From this time forward, Christianity made steady progress; and
+when, in the year 1817, Mr Ellis arrived as a missionary in these
+isles, he found almost the entire population professing it, and
+apparently devout in their practice. Family worship was established
+in all the principal houses; and many had built in their
+gardens a small oratory, or, as they called it, <i>fare bure huna</i>—the
+house for hidden prayer.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Already the grosser crimes of heathenism had been abandoned—especially
+the practice of infanticide, which had prevailed to so
+frightful an extent. In every district the schools were crowded,
+and those who had mastered the arts of reading and writing
+assisted in teaching those less advanced. Strange pictures presented
+themselves in these classes, where bright, intelligent children
+were often the instructors of aged men and women, priests and
+warriors, to whom learning was a hard task, but one which they
+were determined to master, that they might read for themselves
+the wonderful book which had taught such wisdom to their king.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>These were in truth earnest scholars. The only books that had
+as yet reached them, were a spelling-book, printed in England, and
+a summary of the Old and New Testaments, printed at Port Jackson.
+But of these there were few copies: and many of the people,
+in their anxiety to possess one, had prepared sheets of fine paper-mulberry
+fibre, on which, with a reed-pen, dipped in the sap of the
+banana-tree, they had carefully copied out whole pages of the
+reading-lessons, or fragments of the sacred Scriptures. Others had
+committed the whole to memory.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Great, therefore, was their excitement and delight when Mr
+Ellis arrived at Afareaitu, bringing with him a good printing-press.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_307'>307</span>Crowds besieged the printing-office day and night, to
+watch the progress of setting up the types,—the king himself
+preparing the first alphabet. His delight when the first sheet
+was struck off, equalled that of his people; and all felt that it
+was a marked day in the history of Tahiti, when her king, with
+his own hands, printed the first page of the first book published in
+the South Sea Isles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The binding of the volumes was the next interest. The supply
+of millboard was small; but again the fibre of the paper-mulberry
+was turned to account, several layers being pressed together to
+form a stiff pasteboard, which was then coloured with the purple
+dye obtained from the mountain-plantain; or else thin wooden
+boards were used, and covered with the skin of whatever animal
+could be procured,—goat, cat, or dog: and the new art of tanning
+was among the earliest industries of the isle.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Hitherto all books circulated in the isles had been distributed
+gratuitously, but it was deemed wiser for every reason, henceforth
+to exact a small payment in cocoa-nut oil, which was the article
+most easily obtained by the people. So great was their anxiety to
+purchase the books, that there were sometimes as many as thirty
+or forty canoes drawn up on the beach, having come from different
+remote villages, and having each brought several persons, whose
+sole object was to procure the precious volume, not only for themselves,
+but for others. Some who were thus commissioned, were
+the bearers of huge bundles of green plantain-leaves, each rolled
+up like a parchment scroll, and being, in fact, a written order for a
+copy of the book, payment for which was sent in the form of a
+bamboo measure filled with oil. Many of these messengers waited
+for several weeks ere the copies could be supplied; and some of
+the more urgent refused to leave the mission premises till the
+books were delivered to them, lest other men should slip in before
+them and carry off the coveted treasures.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When we consider that teachers were so few, and worshippers
+so numerous, and that many large congregations assembled in the
+chapels they had built for Christian prayer, firmly believing that
+HE in whose name they had met, was there present; yet having
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_308'>308</span>none to lead their worship, save, perhaps, a newly converted priest
+of Oro, or a professional dancer, hitherto sunk in every form of
+vice,—we can the better understand the extreme anxiety of the
+people to possess the books which were the storehouses of excellent
+knowledge.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Have you ever realised the innumerable difficulties under which
+these early publishers had to contend? To begin with, they had
+themselves to reduce barbarous and hitherto unknown tongues to a
+written language,—no easy matter, considering that many of these
+dialects are so rich as to possess far more words to express shades
+of meaning than any European language.<a id='r62'></a><a href='#f62' class='c017'><sup>[62]</sup></a> So, beginning with the
+alphabet, they had to work out equivalents for words in which the
+slightest change of accent conveys totally different meanings; then
+they had to puzzle out very intricate grammatical structures, and,
+having mastered all this, had to commence the very difficult work
+of translating so large a book as the Bible—a book, moreover,
+treating of spiritual truths which it was hard indeed to render
+comprehensible to such very materialistic minds as these.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yet in the short space of about thirty years, the Scriptures have
+been translated into about twenty different languages, all previously
+unknown; and there is not one group throughout Polynesia, the
+people of which do not now read the Scriptures in their own
+tongue. The same good work is now gradually extending throughout
+Melanesia also; and even New Guinea, which, ten years ago,
+was an unknown land, has already received portions of the New
+Testament in the language spoken by at least one of its tribes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Considering the extremely volatile nature of these light-hearted
+people, the exceeding earnestness with which they seem to have
+entered into the requirements of a spiritual religion, is very remarkable.
+They had, however, been early trained to a belief
+in the necessity of whole-hearted attention, and reverence in the
+worship of their idols. It mattered not how large and costly
+might be the offerings, and how careful the ceremonial, should
+the priest omit, or even misplace, any word in the appointed
+prayers, or should his attention be diverted, the prayer was unavailing;
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_309'>309</span>other victims must be brought, and the whole ceremony
+repeated from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So, too, the rigid observance of the Jewish Sabbatical laws
+seemed a natural requirement to a people who, from their infancy,
+had been taught implicit obedience to the laws of <i>tabu</i>, or sacred
+seasons, when, at the bidding of priest or chief, no fire must be
+kindled, no canoe launched, and neither food nor drink might be
+tasted, under severest penalties. When, therefore, the early missionaries
+declared one day in seven to be strictly <i>tabu</i>, and themselves
+gave the example by abstaining from every sort of secular
+employment, even preparing their own food on the previous day
+(which was hence called the <i>mahana maa</i>, or food-day), the natives
+willingly obeyed, and proved themselves capable of such close and
+continuous attention to spiritual subjects as the majority of Christians
+nowadays would find wellnigh impossible.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So, too, with the custom of saying grace before eating, which is
+so strictly practised by all the converts in Polynesia. It was the
+more readily adopted because, in heathen days, no morsel might
+pass the lips of any member of the family till the chief person
+present had offered a portion to the gods, adding a few words of
+prayer for their protection and blessing. In some instances they
+chanted a form of thanksgiving for the good things received, as
+being the gift of the gods.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have written this story of old days somewhat at length, from
+a conviction that it is probably almost unknown to you, and must
+surely prove interesting, though I am fully aware that it cannot be
+so to you in the same degree as it is to me, who have heard the
+story for the first time on the very spot where those terrible scenes
+were formerly enacted, and where the marvellous change was actually
+wrought.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_310'>310</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXI.<br> <span class='c009'>A HEALING TREE—PLANTATION LIFE—VANILLA CROPS—CAT-AND-DOG LIFE—A FOILED ASSASSIN—THE TROPICS OF TO-DAY—ENGLAND IN DAYS OF YORE—AMONG THE CRAGS—INFANTICIDE—HEATHEN DAYS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Chez</i> <span class='sc'>Madame Brun, Papetoai</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Monday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another long day in scenes of dream-like loveliness. Early as
+I always awaken, the little trio were astir before me, waiting in
+their bathing-dresses to escort me to the shore, dancing joyously
+as sunbeams, and most carefully pioneering my path through the
+shallow water, so as to avoid the very unpleasant chance of treading
+on sea-hedgehogs and other spiny creatures. There are so very
+few places in the isles where sea-bathing is altogether free from
+danger of sharks, that it is a luxury on which we rarely venture,
+and therefore appreciate it all the more.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Immediately after early chocolate, a friendly gendarme lent me
+his horse (I had brought my own saddle), and, not without
+some cowardly qualms, I rode off alone in search of Madame
+Valles’s plantation. The road lay along the shore—a lovely grass
+path, overshadowed by all manner of beautiful trees, of which the
+most conspicuous is here called the <i>tamanu</i>, an old acquaintance
+with a new name. In Fiji it is called <i>ndelo</i>. It is common not
+only throughout Polynesia but also in the East Indies, and in
+Mauritius.<a id='r63'></a><a href='#f63' class='c017'><sup>[63]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In all these lands this noble tree grows and flourishes, just
+above high-water mark, on what seems to us the most arid
+sandy shores, and outstretches its wide branches with their rich
+dark foliage, casting cool delicious shadows on the dazzling coral-sands,
+a boon to tired eyes, weary of the mid-day glare.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is a tree for the healing of the nations. Its large glossy
+leaves, when soaked in fresh water, are valuable in reducing inflammation
+of the eyes; and its round green fruit contains a small
+grey ball, within which lies a kernel, which yields about sixty per
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_311'>311</span>cent of a green-coloured bitter oil, worth about £90 a ton in the
+Anglo-Indian market. It is an invaluable remedy as a liniment in
+all forms of rheumatism, rheumatic fever, bruises, stiffness, and
+similar ailments. Throughout the isles its virtues are fully recognised,
+but it is only prepared in small quantities for domestic use,
+and stored by prudent householders, in hollow gourds, which are
+the correct substitute for bottles. The labour of expressing the oil,
+by any hand process, is so great as to prevent an extensive manufacture;
+and I am not aware that any machinery for this purpose
+has found its way to the Pacific, though it does seem a pity that
+so valuable a product should be wasted, as it now is.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Wherever we go, in any of these isles, the sea-beach is strewn
+with myriads of these, and other seeds, some of which, such as the
+gigantic climbing-bean,<a id='r64'></a><a href='#f64' class='c017'><sup>[64]</sup></a> have been washed down by the mountain
+streams; while others, such as these grey balls, and the curious
+square-shaped seeds of the Barringtonia, in their outer case of
+nature-woven fibre, drop from the boughs which overhang the sea.
+The white blossom of the <i>tamanu</i> trees is both fragrant and ornamental,
+and many a pleasant hour have I spent on many a lovely
+isle, alone (save for the omnipresent army of hermit-crabs) beneath
+the shade of these grand trees, beside the cool blue waters of the
+Pacific.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I had no difficulty in finding Madame Valles’s home—a lovely
+nest, perched high on the hillside, with a background of grey rock-pinnacles
+and crags. The house is embowered in greenery, and
+from its verandahs you look through a frame of pure scarlet
+hybiscus to the bluest of lagoons, divided from the purply ocean
+beyond by the line of gleaming white breakers which bound the
+coral-reef.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>M. Valles is at present very unwell, and quite a prisoner, so
+double work falls to the lot of Madame Valles, who has to do most
+of her own cooking and house-work, milk her own cow, and attend
+with unwearied care to that most precarious of all crops, vanilla. So
+you see that even in Moorea plantation life is not luxurious.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The great difficulty here is to obtain labour; and there is not
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_312'>312</span>one regular servant or labourer on this estate. Fifteen acres of
+coffee have all run wild, and grown into tall straggling bushes,
+from total lack of hands to tend it. As there is no one to
+gather the crop of ripe red coffee cherries, they are left to drop,
+and the rats eat the soft fruit, leaving the beans untouched; so
+the family collect these, all ready pulped, and devoutly wish the
+rats were ten times as numerous.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the most precious crop here is vanilla, which is both pretty
+and lucrative, being worth about four dollars a pound. It is a luxuriant
+creeper, and grows so freely that a branch broken off and falling
+on the ground takes root of its own accord; and it climbs all
+over the tall coffee shrubs, the palms, <i>avocat</i> pear and orange trees,
+and everything that comes in its way, growing best on living wood,
+the tendrils thence deriving sustenance. It also flourishes best in
+unweeded grounds, the roots being thereby kept cool.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So the steep wooded hillside is densely matted with this fragrant
+spice, which scents the whole air,—indeed the atmosphere of the
+house is redolent of vanilla. It is like living in a spice-box, as the
+pods are laid to dry in every available corner. They must be
+gathered unripe, and dried in a moist warm place; sometimes they
+are packed under layers of quilts to prevent them from bursting,
+and so losing their fragrant essence.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>All this sounds very pleasant, and only suggests light work, yet
+in truth this cultivation involves most exhausting toil. The plant
+is an exotic; it lives in these isles by the will of the planter, not
+by nature’s law. In its native home exquisite humming-birds
+hover over its blossoms, therein darting their long bills in search of
+honey, and drawing them forth, clogged with the golden pollen,
+which they carry to the next flower, thus doing nature’s work of
+fertilisation.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here the flowers have no such dainty wooers, and the vanilla bears
+no fruit unless fertilised by human hand. So M. and Madame
+Valles, and their son, divide the steep hillside into three sections,
+and each morning they patiently but wearily toil up and down, up
+and down, again, and again, and again, in order to manipulate each
+blossom that has expanded during the night. “Faire le mariage
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_313'>313</span>des fleurs,” as Madame Valles describes her daily task, is no sinecure;
+it must be done during the hottest hours of the day, when
+any exertion is most exhausting. It needs a keen eye to detect
+each fresh blossom, and any neglected flower withers and drops.
+Each day the ripening pods must be gathered, and in dry weather
+the plants require frequent watering—an indescribable toil.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This morning Madame Valles let me accompany her on her
+morning rounds, whereby I realised that toil and hardship are to
+be found even in paradise.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We returned to breakfast, which was served by an old French
+soldier—a garrulous old fellow, and evidently quite a “character.”
+Apparently his life is a burden to him, by reason of the multitude
+of half-tamed animals which swarm about the place. In the
+dining-room were three old and six young cats; two large, three
+medium, and many small dogs,—all hungrily clamouring for food,
+and only kept off the table by the free use of a large, resounding
+whip.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the afternoon M. Brun came in search of me, and we rode to
+the head of the bay, where there is a beautiful estate, and large
+comfortable house, built many years ago by an English planter, who
+failed, and the place was bought by Dr Michelli, an Italian, who
+chanced just then to be conveying a cargo of Chinese coolies to
+Peru. So many died on the voyage that he determined to halt at
+Tahiti, and give the survivors time to recruit. Finding this very
+desirable property in the market, he concluded that the part of
+wisdom was to go no further. So here he settled with about fifty
+Chinamen, who work the land and give him a third of the profits,
+while he rides about the mountains, and shoots wild cattle for their
+common use.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>His surroundings are somewhat polyglot. The cook is an Englishman;
+servants of various degree are Tahitian; while the overseer,
+M. Bellemare, is a French <i>externe-politique</i>, who was exiled for
+firing at the late Emperor Louis Napoléon—a crime which the
+Emperor seems to have punished on the Biblical principle of heaping
+coals of fire, in the form of unmerited reward; for during his
+lifetime M. Bellemare received a regular pension and lived on the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_314'>314</span>fat of the land—a clemency which certainly failed to awaken one
+thrill of gratitude in the would-be assassin. The pension having
+expired with the death of the Emperor, M. Bellemare has been
+obliged to seek remunerative occupation, which he has here
+found.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Tuesday, 11th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Again a delightful sea-bathe, followed by real French chocolate,
+and then the charming little trio constituted themselves my guides,
+and led me by difficult, and to me undiscernible paths, over the
+wooded hills, and through <i>la brousse</i>, which consists of dense
+guava scrub, to various points, from which we obtained lovely
+views of the harbour. The walk involved an amount of severe
+scrambling which, even to me, was somewhat trying; but the
+children skipped along over rock and crag like young kids, only
+pausing, with charmingly pretty manners, to see if I required their
+aid, and bringing me all manner of treasures of fruit and flowers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I fear no description can possibly convey to your mind a true
+picture of the lovely woods through which we wander just where
+fancy leads us, knowing that no hurtful creature of any sort lurks
+among the mossy rocks or in the rich undergrowth of ferns. Here
+and there we come on patches of soft green turf, delightfully suggestive
+of rest, beneath the broad shadow of some great tree with
+buttressed roots; but more often the broken rays of sunlight gleam
+in ten thousand reflected lights, dancing and glancing as they shimmer
+on glossy leaves of every form and shade—from the huge silky
+leaves of the wild plantain or the giant arum, to the waving palm-fronds,
+which are so rarely at rest, but flash and gleam like polished
+swords as they bend and twist with every breath of air.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It has just occurred to me that probably you have no very
+distinct idea of the shape of a cocoa-palm leaf, which does not
+bear the slightest resemblance to the palmettos in the greenhouse.
+It consists of a strong mid-rib, about eight feet long, which, at the
+end next to the tree, spreads out, very much as your two clenched
+fists, placed side by side, do from your wrists. The other end
+tapers to a point. For a space of about two feet the stalk is bare;
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_315'>315</span>then along the remaining six feet a regiment of short swords,
+graduated from two feet to eighteen inches in length, are set close
+together on each side of the mid-rib. Of course the faintest stir
+of the leaf causes these multitudinous swordlets to flash in the
+sunlight. Hence the continual effect of glittering light, and also
+the extreme difficulty of securing a good photograph of a cocoa-palm.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A little lower than these tall queens of the coral-isles, rise fairy-like
+canopies of graceful tree-ferns, often festooned with most delicate
+lianas; and there are places where not these only, but the
+larger trees, are literally matted together by the dense growth of
+the beautiful large-leaved white convolvulus, or the smaller lilac
+ipomæa, which twines round the tall stems of the palms, and overspreads
+the light fronds, like some green waterfall. Many of the
+larger trees are clothed with parasitic ferns; huge bird’s-nest ferns
+grow in the forks of the branches, as do various orchids, the dainty
+children of the mist, so that the stems are wellnigh as green as
+everything else in that wilderness of lovely forms. It is a very
+inanimate paradise, however. I rarely see any birds or butterflies,
+only a few lizards and an occasional dragon-fly; and the voice of
+singing-birds, such as gladden our hearts in humble English woods,
+is here mute—so we have at least this compensation, for the lack
+of all the wild luxuriance which here is so fascinating.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I wonder if a time will ever come when these fairy isles shall
+have passed through changes as marvellous as those which geologists
+teach us to trace in Old England.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Have you ever fully realised that “once upon a time” all the
+strange beautiful plants which we call tropical, were growing in
+rank luxuriance on English soil? I believe that the curious
+diapered stem of the quaint papawa is one of our common fossil
+forms. In Dr Buckland’s museum at Oxford, I remember seeing
+unmistakable fruit of a screw-pine (pandanus) found in the Oolite,
+near Charmouth. As to the London Clay, the Isle of Sheppey
+seems wholly composed of relics of tropical plants, turtles, serpents,
+and shells, now unknown save in these warm isles. I have seen
+a drawing of the section of a fossil fruit found there, which might
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_316'>316</span>have been made from a split bread-fruit; also nuts greatly resembling
+those of the cocoa and areca palms. The custard-apple
+is found there, and the dracæna and yucca, and many another
+tropical leaf and fruit. Would that they grew there now!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Picture to yourself a time when the bleak Northumbrian coast
+was a forest like one of these, and the coals, of which we now so
+gladly heap up blazing fires, were all beautiful ferns and palms,
+waving in the warm sunlight! Truly it is hard to realise. Even
+the dragon-flies and lizards of those antediluvian forests are preserved,
+and spiders and scorpions. As to the chalk and lias and
+limestone, they give us sponges and corals and zoophytes enough
+to build up any number of coral-reefs; and there are great turban
+echini with heavy spines, like those we find here, and star-fish
+innumerable, and teeth and vertebræ of sharks and ray.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So that there really was a time when Old England must have
+been as fascinating as any South Sea isle. What she may have
+been in the days of the mammoth and megatherium, and all the
+gruesome race, restored for our edification at the Crystal Palace, is
+quite another matter; the very idea is suggestive of nightmare!</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Wednesday, 12th Dec.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This has been a grey stormy day, with heavy showers, but as
+Dr Michelli had promised to escort me up the valley to the foot of
+the mighty crags, I could not lose so good an opportunity; and
+indeed such solemn mountain scenes only borrow fresh grandeur
+from the gloom, so that I almost prefer a stormy leaden sky for
+such an expedition; besides, it is no small gain to have a veiled
+sun, as its full rays, when refracted by the black trap dikes, make
+the ascent somewhat of a toil.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The friendly gendarme again lent me his horse to ride to the
+head of the harbour, where the Doctor had other steeds ready for
+the mountain. Unfortunately he himself was unwell, and so was
+obliged to commit me to the care of the <i>externe-politique</i>, who fulfilled
+his trust admirably, though I confess that it gave me something
+of an eerie feeling to find myself at a height of 2000 feet
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_317'>317</span>above my fellow-men, sitting quietly sketching among black crags
+and floating mists, alone with a would-be murderer, who, glorying
+in his shame, entertained me at great length with a most animated
+description of the whole story, nor spared me one of his poignant
+regrets at the failure of his vile attempt.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The scenery on every side was magnificent. Huge indigo-coloured
+mountain-masses looming out awfully through the floating
+cloud-wreaths—tremendous precipices—deep mysterious ravines—right
+above me towered a gigantic square-shaped mountain, and
+beyond it one vast pinnacle. You never can lose the impression
+of cyclopean fortifications and watch-towers. The higher ridges
+are absolutely inaccessible; but adventurous cragsmen sometimes
+find their way by tracks which wild goats would shun—narrow
+ledges by which they can creep along the face of a precipice, and
+so pass on to another ravine, or scramble from ledge to ledge with
+the help of ropes. “Le jeu vaut-il la chandelle?” I should
+say not.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>From the highest point we reached, I obtained a grand view of
+the valley, which lay bathed in sunlight, while we were shrouded
+in mountain gloom, with a storm fast gathering overhead. Far
+below us, beyond the orange-groves and the cultivated lands, lay
+the two harbours, Pao Pao and Opunohu—two calm lagoons lying
+to right and left of a mighty rock-pyramid, which is crowned with
+trap ridges, so narrow as here and there to have altogether worn
+away, leaving arches and apertures through which the sky is seen,
+as through the eye of a needle. This is a common feature of the
+ridges which form the centre of this strange isle, and which are
+thus pierced in many places—a phenomenon duly accounted for
+in Tahitian legends by the spear-thrusts of certain demigods and
+heroes.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>A few heavy rain-drops, with a prospect of abundance to follow,
+compelled me to abandon this splendid sketching-ground, and
+return to the lower world, where the Doctor awaited my return,
+to share an excellent breakfast, with all the delicacies of Moorea.
+One of these, which is perhaps unknown to you, is the Abercarder
+pear, or, as it is called in India, “subaltern’s butter,” a pear-shaped
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_318'>318</span>fruit, the size of a big man’s fist. Within its green rind lies the
+softest melting pulp, really like vegetable butter, with a large round
+seed in the centre. This fruit is either eaten with pepper and salt,
+or else beaten up with lemon-juice and sugar; and it is excellent
+in either form. The chief difficulty is to secure it, as all animals
+have a passion for it; cows, horses, even dogs and cats, watch for
+the falling of the ripe fruit, and quickly despatch it.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After breakfast I rode back here, and found my host and hostess
+just starting for the village, so I strolled along with them to see
+the big coral church, memorable as having been the first built in
+this group, a monument of early zeal, and a wonderful triumph of
+will over difficulties. But now, whether from diminished energy
+or decreased population I know not, the place is falling into disrepair,
+and suggests retrogression.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But the bird-cage homes of the people are charming, and the
+inmates are charming, and the brown-eyed olive-coloured babies,
+and their most careful little brothers and sisters, are especially
+attractive. To-day I have seen the loveliest baby I have ever yet
+met with. Of Italian and Tahitian parentage, it receives a double
+heritage of beauty, and the little Aurora is destined hereafter to
+take her place among the fairest maidens of Italy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Certainly children here have a very happy time of it. What
+with idolising parents, and friends who seem always ready to play
+with them, their only danger lies on the side of excessive spoiling.
+And yet, in heathen days, the Tahitians were as noted for infanticide
+as the Sandwich Islanders,—with the one difference that here,
+the poor little unwelcome guests were disposed of at the very
+moment of their birth, and if spared for even a few minutes they
+were generally saved; whereas in Hawaii, the system of child-murder
+was much more deliberate.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The extent to which it was practised in both groups makes one
+marvel how the isles failed to be wholly depopulated. Though
+offspring were generally numerous, few parents cared to rear more
+than three children; a man with four was looked upon as a <i>taata
+taubuu buu</i>—that is, a man with a heavy burden. The majority
+of Tahitian women in pagan days spoke openly, and without the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_319'>319</span>slightest shame, of having put to death half-a-dozen helpless innocents,
+while some confessed to ten or twelve; and when the missionaries
+and their wives implored these women to spare their little
+ones, yet unborn, their words were heard with derision, and the
+cruel mothers would return to boast how they had obeyed the
+custom of the isles, in defiance of white men’s counsel.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Afterwards, when these same women had become Christians,
+they would come to the school festivals, at which were sometimes
+gathered several hundred happy children, whose lives had been
+spared in obedience to a better law; and often, with bitter tears,
+did these childless mothers bewail their own dead offspring,
+murdered by their own hands. At one such meeting, a venerable
+chief arose to address the people, and show, by contrast with the
+past, how great was their present gain. Pointing to a troop of
+comely lads and lasses, he said: “Large was my family, but I alone
+remain. I am the father of nineteen children; all of them I have
+murdered: now my heart longs for them. Had I spared them,
+they would now have been men and women, knowing the word of
+the true God. But all died in the service of the false gods, and
+now my heart is repenting—is weeping for them.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>One of the chief women, who, having learnt to read at the age
+of sixty, had proved a most useful school teacher, was bitterly
+troubled in the hour of death by the thought of her sixteen children,
+every one of whom she had herself put to death. But there was
+scarcely a woman who had attained middle age ere the spread of
+Christianity, who was not haunted by the same sad memories; and
+one visitor to Tahiti has recorded his amazement when, on his
+expressing his belief that statements had been exaggerated, his
+friend appealed to three most respectable, motherly-looking women,
+who chanced to be sitting in the room quietly sewing, and quite at
+random, asked each in turn how many of her children she had
+killed. With shame and evident pain, the first, with faltering
+voice, replied, “I have destroyed nine;” the second said she had
+killed five; the third had killed seven. So that these three women
+casually selected, had killed twenty-one children!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It seems scarcely credible that such deeds were perpetrated by
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_320'>320</span>the same race whom we now see so gentle and loving; but heathenism
+always tended to cruelty.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In nothing was this more apparent than in the treatment of the
+sick. Generally speaking, the best a sick man could hope for was
+simple neglect. As soon as it was evident that his illness would
+be protracted, a hut of cocoa-palm leaves was built for him at a little
+distance, and he was carried there. For a while he was supplied
+with food and drink; but his friends soon grew careless, and so
+often forgot him, that he very probably died of starvation. Should
+he be possessed of property coveted by his neighbours, he was
+very likely murdered with the most wanton barbarity. His
+“friends” having determined on his death, proceeded to his hut,
+armed with their spears; and, unheeding of his cries for mercy,
+they treated him as a target, trying who could take best aim, till
+at length some one, more merciful than the others, rushed in and
+pierced him through the heart.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At other times the sick were buried alive. Their relations dug
+a pit, and then, pretending that they would carry the sufferer to
+the river to bathe, they threw him into the ready-made grave, and
+drowned his cries by quickly throwing in stones and earth. Sometimes
+the victim perceived what was in store for him, and endeavoured
+to escape; but he was invariably captured by his
+murderers, and carried to his untimely grave.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Almost the first great change wrought by Christianity was in the
+care of the sick, who now are nursed with the utmost tenderness,
+the natives having, many years ago, formed themselves into societies
+for the express purpose of building houses, where the aged and
+helpless, who have no friends or children to tend them at home,
+may be fed and clothed, and comforted by the ministrations of
+Christian teachers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In one respect, the people of Tahiti, like those of Samoa, proved
+superior to most other Pacific islanders. There is no evidence
+of their having ever been cannibals. While their neighbours in
+the Paumotus and the Marquesas, in the Hervey Isles and New
+Zealand, and in nearly every group throughout the Western Pacific,
+never lost a chance of feasting on human flesh, these gentler savages,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_321'>321</span>like those of Samoa, do not seem to have been tempted by the
+hideous fare. They contented themselves with heaping insult on
+the bodies of the slain, which were often brutally mutilated.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nothing amazes me more than to hear travellers and others
+occasionally talk with positive regret of the work of missionaries of
+all denominations, throughout these various groups of isles. To
+hear them speak, you would suppose that the natives, in their
+untutored state, were the most innocent, loving, and attractive of
+mortals. Surely such men can know nothing of the past, and of
+the dangers incurred by the early teachers, to whose earnest labours
+in the beginning of the present century those ungrateful talkers
+owe their own present safety. But even in those days the worst
+dangers and the most virulent opposition encountered by the missionaries
+were almost invariably stirred up by iniquitous white men—generally
+sailors and shipmasters.<a id='r65'></a><a href='#f65' class='c017'><sup>[65]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Certainly the Tahitians, as we now see them, are as gentle and
+affectionate as it is possible for a people to be. Most kind and
+hospitable, always cheerful and good-natured, easily pleased and
+amused, finding matter for mirth in every trifle; so that angry
+words or recriminations are rarely heard, but rather a sound of
+rippling laughter, which seems here to pervade the very air. A
+messenger is just going across to Tahiti to take letters, and to fetch
+any that may have arrived by the schooner from San Francisco. I
+shall send this as a postscript to my last, which will probably
+reach you at the same time.—So good-bye.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Your Loving Sister.</span></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_322'>322</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXII.<br> <span class='c009'>LIFE ON MOOREA—AN ANCIENT PLACE OF SACRIFICE—ARRIVAL OF H.M.S. SHAH—HOSPITALITIES ON LAND AND WATER.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>French Mission, Papetoai</span>, <i>Saturday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This has been a glorious day of unclouded sunlight, and in order
+that I might enjoy it to the full, my kind hosts planned a family
+picnic on the other side of the bay. There was no available boat,
+only a tiny canoe, so we crossed in several detachments, till all
+were safely landed on the opposite shore, where we established
+ourselves beneath the shade of some noble iron-wood trees, whence
+the view of towering mountains, laughing valley, and blue waters
+was so entrancing, that I at once settled down to sketch, while
+the little ones disported themselves in the shallow waters, therein
+capturing small crabs, and sea-urchins, and many other treasures,
+till the kindling of a fire, and preparation of our gipsy breakfast,
+afforded them fresh occupation and delight.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>What a pleasant feast they spread on the briny grass, and with
+what hospitality they ministered to our numerous self-invited
+guests, the hermit-crabs! Less welcome were the inevitable mosquitoes,
+but to-day there was sufficient breeze to disperse them in a
+great measure; and after breakfast we wandered along the shore,
+and the strange lady from Beretania was introduced to the gentle
+inmates of many a bird-cage home!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Oh dear, how fascinating is this simple, kindly, island life!
+Each day leaves me more and more captivated by the loveliness of
+these isles of paradise, where our eyes always rest on some scene of
+beauty, wherever they turn. Each halting-place seems more charming
+than the last, and the only sorrow is having to leave it, to pass
+on to another, which in its turn becomes as attractive. Each week
+makes me wonder more how I shall ever be able to settle down to
+a humdrum existence in well-appointed English houses, with their
+regiments of fine servants, and wearisome conventionalities of social
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_323'>323</span>life! I vote that, instead of my having to do so, you should come
+out here and learn what true enjoyment means.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But, alas! my days in Moorea are for the present drawing to a
+close, for on our return this evening I found kind letters from Mrs
+Brander and from the governor, M. D’Oncieue, telling me of the
+arrival of H.M.S. Shah, and requesting that, as a good British subject,
+I would hasten back to share in the festivities to be held in
+her honour.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Sunday Evening.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>A morning of peaceful delight on the silent shore, and a long
+afternoon stroll by myself, to drink in deep draughts of never-to-be-forgotten
+enjoyment, of one of the loveliest spots in all this fair
+creation. We had planned various pleasant expeditions for this
+week, but it seems best to defer them; so I am to leave my baggage
+here to take its chance of following me, and I am to ride to
+the other side of the island, whence it is probable that a boat may
+go across to Papeete within a day or two.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Haapiti, Isle Moorea</span>, <i>Monday Night</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Bidding a provisional farewell to my charming hostess and my
+little guides, I started in the fresh early morning, accompanied by
+M. Brun. The whole ride was exquisite, though in places the
+beautiful forest has suffered from ruthless carelessness, and many
+splendid old iron-wood trees stand scathed and half-burnt by
+accidental fires. On our arrival here, the big man of the village
+welcomed us to his house, and gave us breakfast.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>You may remember that it was at this place that Mrs Brander,
+in her character of high chiefess of the isle, gave such a picturesque
+welcome to the young king and queen. To-day the district was in
+its normal condition of quiet—no crowds, no <i>himènes</i>, no feasting,
+save and except the fatted fowl which perished on our arrival.
+Only the natural beauty remained, unchanged and unsurpassable.
+I cannot believe that even the Marquesas can be more beautiful,
+nor yet the nearer isle of Bora-Bora, of which the Tahitians speak
+as of a marvel of loveliness, with its towering rock-pinnacles and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_324'>324</span>lofty crags, so veiled with trailing vines as to resemble green
+waterfalls.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After breakfast we got a canoe and rowed back for a considerable
+distance along the shore to a fine old <i>marae</i>—an immense
+platform of huge blocks of hewn coral, on a pyramidal base, which
+in olden days was a heathen altar, and also a tomb. Close by it
+are two smaller <i>marais</i> and a large sacrificial stone, enclosed by a
+wall of small coral blocks. The whole place is overgrown by grand
+old iron-wood trees (<i>casuarina</i>). After we had left it, we were
+told of a stone image, four or five feet high, which has somehow
+escaped the general destruction of its fellows; and I was very sorry
+to have missed seeing so interesting a survivor of a past so recent
+and yet so thoroughly extinguished.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is the only <i>marae</i> I have seen, the majority having been
+destroyed, together with the temples and the altars, when the
+people, in the zeal of first love, endeavoured to sweep away every
+trace of the old idolatry.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mr Ellis has recorded that one huge <i>marae</i> having been destroyed,
+the natives used the stones composing it to build an
+immense platform, on which was spread a great feast for all the
+children of the school (both boys and girls, in number about 240)
+and their parents. The point of interest lay in the fact that in
+heathen times it would have been death for a girl or a woman to
+set foot in the <i>marae</i>, or to taste the food which was there offered.
+Indeed all the better sorts of food, such as pig and fowl, were
+reserved exclusively for the men and the gods; and the fire with
+which men’s food was cooked was also sacred; no woman dared to
+use it—her simpler fare must be cooked apart, and eaten in a
+separate hut. So a united festival, such as that held on the ruins
+of the <i>marae</i>, was in every sense a Christian love-feast, and strangely
+in contrast with the hideous scenes previously enacted on the
+spot, when the coral walls were dyed with the blood of human
+victims offered to the cruel war-gods, and where, in every crevice
+of the noble old trees, were seen bleaching human bones, skeletons
+hanging from the boughs, and beneath them, ghastly heaps of
+skulls, generally those of warriors slain in battle.</p>
+<div  class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/p3241_ill.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic001'>
+<p>ANCIENT MARAI AND BASALTIC NEEDLE.<br>  ISLE MOOREA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_325'>325</span>These horribly unfragrant <i>marais</i> were also considered as family
+mausoleums, where the dried bones of great men might safely be
+deposited. Nevertheless, even the sanctity of the temple did not
+always protect the dead from ruthless spoliation; and in times of
+war the victors not only carried off the idols of the vanquished,
+but also the bones of their relations, to be converted into chisels or
+fish-hooks, which was considered the lowest depth of degradation.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To avoid this danger, the dead were laid in small houses apart,
+and carefully watched, till the flesh fell from their bones, when
+these were collected by a trusty hand, and carried to some safe
+hiding-place in the mountains. In the case of any person of great
+note, this custom is still observed, as I learnt on visiting the little
+seaside chapel where old Queen Pomare was buried shortly before
+my arrival; and I was told her bones had been secretly removed,
+only three or four of her nearest kindred being aware of their
+present hiding-place.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In olden days, however, a simple process of embalming was
+practised, by means of which the wealthier families could preserve
+their dead for about a year, not longer. The brain and intestines
+having been removed, they were replaced by cloth saturated with
+aromatic oils, which were also daily rubbed all over the corpse.
+Every day it was placed in a sitting posture in the sun, that it
+might gradually become dried up; and an altar was erected before
+it, on which were daily offered fresh flowers, and fruit, and other
+food. With this the relations or priests touched the lips of the
+dead several times a day, for, like the Chinese, they averred that
+the departed spirit came to feast on the spiritual essence<a id='r66'></a><a href='#f66' class='c017'><sup>[66]</sup></a> of the
+gross meats.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Indeed the whole ceremony savours of Chinese custom. There
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_326'>326</span>was the same passionate ceremonial wailing for the dead, the same
+sort of religious service to appease the unquiet spirit, and prevent
+it from returning to earth to annoy the survivors. In place of
+burning paper effigies of horses, and houses, and other things likely
+to be useful in the spirit-world, the Tahitian priest placed about
+the corpse pieces of the stalk of the mountain-plantain, and told
+the dead that these were its parents, its wife, its children, and that
+with these it must be satisfied, and refrain from vexing the living.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here likewise, as in the Chinese cities of the dead, small low
+houses were built as temporary homes for the unburied corpses,
+which were laid on biers, and by day were drawn out into the sun;
+but by night the body lay horizontally, and was frequently turned,
+lest it should dry irregularly. When, notwithstanding all care,
+the poor body began to decay, then the skull was wrapped in cloth,
+and carried home to be preserved with the family gods, and duly
+worshipped. The bones were either buried or carried off to the
+mountains in the mysterious way I have already described.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Although the Tahitian embalmers failed to preserve their dead
+for more than a year, the Samoans seem to have been more successful,
+though, apparently, only a limited number of the chiefs were
+thus honoured. Dr Turner, however, has seen bodies which had
+certainly been embalmed for upwards of thirty years, and were still
+in excellent preservation, when, on the death of the relations whose
+task it was to dress and tend the bodies, all were laid together
+beneath the sod. The office of embalmer was an exclusively
+feminine one, and the process observed in Samoa was exactly the
+same as that practised in Tahiti. The body was wrapped in native
+cloth, leaving the head, face, and hands exposed; these were
+occasionally anointed with scented oil and turmeric, to give a lifelike
+tinge to the complexion, and so were exhibited to all comers.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I spoke of the wailing at funerals as ceremonial, because it was
+not only customary to weep frantically, rending the hair, tearing
+the garments, and uttering agonising cries, but it was also <i>de
+rigueur</i> to display sympathy by inflicting on one’s self very serious
+wounds with instruments made for the purpose. Several rows of
+shark’s teeth were fixed in small canes, and with these the mourners
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_327'>327</span>smote their breasts, their heads, even their faces. One of these
+useful implements formed part of a girl’s bridal <i>trousseau</i>, that she
+might be ready to take her part in whatever scene of sorrow or of
+joy might present itself. For, strange to say, the same ceremonies
+were observed, though in a less excessive degree, to mark great
+happiness; and the safe return of a member of the family, or his
+escape from danger, was, and still is, marked by the shedding of
+what might be mistaken for bitter tears. Happily, however, the
+horrible custom of cutting and bruising one’s own flesh is a thing
+of the past; and friends no longer express sympathy with the
+bereaved by giving them strips of <i>tappa</i> saturated in the blood
+thus voluntarily shed, to be preserved as precious memorials of
+affection!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The one pleasant feature connected with the <i>marais</i>, as with so
+many forms of heathen worship, was the beautiful grove of old
+trees which surrounded them. Different tribes adopted special
+trees as clan badges, and planted these round their family shrines.
+Thus some were overshadowed by huge banyan trees, others by the
+noble <i>tamanu</i>, or native mahogany; and others, again, were distinguished
+from afar by the gorgeous blossoms of the coral-tree,<a id='r67'></a><a href='#f67' class='c017'><sup>[67]</sup></a>
+which dripped its blood-red petals on the altars below it. This
+beautiful tree is almost imperishable; but unluckily it shared in
+the fate of too many of those sacred temple trees, which were
+ruthlessly cut down by the early converts, in their iconoclastic
+zeal. Now the mournful casuarina (the <i>noko-noko</i> of Fiji), with
+its dark hair-like drooping needles, is almost the only distinctive
+foliage which marks the resting-place of the dead.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We lingered at this weird and horribly suggestive spot till the
+evening, and as we rode back to Haapiti, the crags and pinnacles
+towered in purple majesty against a background of luminous gold,
+and one divided ray from the setting sun threaded the eye of the
+great rock-needle. Later, when the moon had risen, we went to
+the village to see the native minister, who is going to Papeete to-morrow,
+and has agreed to give me a passage in his boat. We are
+to start early, so I must now have a sleep. Besides, the mosquitoes
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_328'>328</span>are troublesome, and the only refuge from them is beneath my
+nets. So good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>La Maison Rouge, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>December 18th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Once more I find myself “at home” beneath this hospitable
+roof. We started at daybreak and rowed leisurely along the lovely
+coast to Afareaitu (the place where I told you that Mr Ellis, the
+early missionary, established his first printing-press). At a short
+distance further we came to Nuupuru, where we landed to explore
+another great <i>marae</i>, likewise overgrown with casuarina and palm-trees.
+It stands on the coral-shore, which there, as in most parts
+of the isles, is shaded by dark trees with widespreading branches.
+Just behind this huge coral-altar, rises a gigantic rock-needle—a
+cyclopean natural monolith, such as might have accounted for the
+position of the altar, in lands where nature-worship prevailed,
+which, however, does not appear to have been the case in these
+isles.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here we left the friendly shelter of the reef and passed into the
+outer ocean. Happily a fair breeze favoured us, and we entered
+Papeete harbour soon after noon. Great was the amazement of
+my native friends as they realised the huge proportions of H.M.S.
+Shah, probably the largest ship ever seen in these waters. I
+believe she weighs about 7000 tons. Certainly she makes all the
+other vessels in harbour look like pigmies. The little Daring is
+only 700 tons; Le Limier, 1000; and my trusty old ship Le
+Seignelay, 2000. The Shah carries nearly 700 men and 50
+officers, so England is well represented. My boatman rowed
+right under her bows, the better to estimate her vast size.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On landing, I found that Mrs Brander and all the family had
+moved back to town on account of the arrival of so important a
+vessel, which, of course, involves much work for the house of
+Brander. I had just time to feed, change my dress, and accompany
+my hostess to the palace to “assist” at the king’s state
+reception of Admiral De Horsey and his suite, which, of course,
+was as stiff as stiff could be. We had a pleasant evening, however,
+at the band. Lovely full moonlight.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_329'>329</span><span class='sc'>The Red House</span>, <i>Friday, 21st</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Papeete is surpassing itself in its graceful hospitalities. On
+Wednesday, M. D’Oncieue had a very large reception <i>au Gouvernement</i>,
+and the French admiral’s band played “God save the
+Queen” as the British admiral entered. To you, doubtless, that
+conveys little, but to a stranger in a far land it means much.
+To me, who had not heard the grand old air since I left Australia,
+more than two years ago, it was most thrilling music, for you have
+no idea how patriotic we become when we reach the antipodes!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French and English bands played alternately the whole
+night, and as all the ships were (for once) well represented, and
+all the dancing world of Papeete present, in their happiest mood
+and prettiest toilets, it was a most successful ball, and well kept
+up. The lovely moonlight drew all the non-dancers to the gardens,
+much to the edification of the crowds assembled outside the railing.
+I found several pleasant acquaintances among the new-comers,
+and many more proved to be “friends’ friends”—a title
+which in these far countries means more than you dwellers in
+overcrowded Britain can possibly be expected to understand,
+though you may perhaps realise the unwonted pleasure of meeting
+so many real English gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The evening was far too beautiful for carriages, so the revellers
+dispersed on foot, to walk home by bowery streets or peaceful shore.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yesterday Mrs Brander gave us a startling proof of her skill in
+organising, and of the resources at her command. At the governor’s
+ball it suddenly occurred to her to invite all present to a
+great native feast on the following day, at her country-home. At
+daybreak she started to commence preparations, on a scale which,
+in most hands, would have involved a week’s hard labour. Messengers
+were despatched in every direction to collect fowls, turkeys,
+sucking-pigs, vegetables, fruit, &#38;c., &#38;c. A party was told off to
+build a green bower in which to spread the feast. Glass, crockery,
+silver, and wines had to be brought from the Red House and the
+store; for the ordinary service required for even so large a party as
+habitually assemble at Fautawa would not go far among such a
+multitude as were invited to this impromptu gathering.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_330'>330</span>Still the question was undecided how the guests were to amuse
+themselves, as feeding could not last all the evening. Happily
+Captain Bedford came ashore to see my portfolio, and I ventured
+to ask if the band might come to Fautawa—a favour which was
+cordially granted, and I was able to drive off to Fautawa as the
+bearer of this excellent news. In less than no time, the large
+drawing-room was cleared for dancing, the wide verandahs gaily
+decorated with Chinese lanterns, and an admirable ball-room was
+prepared. It was all like a transformation scene, and accomplished
+so quietly. It would not be so remarkable in a large European
+house, with a full complement of carefully drilled servants; but
+here there really are no servants, properly so called, only friendly
+“helps.” Certainly every one worked with a will on this occasion,
+and all was ready ere the arrival of the first carriage, full of
+middies.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The carriages, like everything else, bore testimony to Mrs
+Brander’s thoughtful and generous care. She provided conveyance
+for every one, from the English admiral and French governor
+down to the smallest middy. Of course her own stable could not
+supply the demand, so every available trap was hired, and plied to
+and fro over the three miles, till all the guests were duly assembled.
+You will allow that this was a truly Tahitian phase of
+hospitality.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So also was the kind forethought which provided towels and a
+new <i>pareo</i> for every guest who cared to bathe in the lovely river—an
+invitation which few, if any, refused; so that a succession of
+joyous parties soon found their way to all the best pools, and
+therein revelled.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>By the time the stragglers reassembled, a multitude of gay
+wreaths had been prepared by the Tahitian maidens, and all the
+guests were duly crowned. Some of the English officers were
+slightly taken aback by this unwonted decoration, but all submitted
+meekly; and we then marched in procession to the house
+of feasting, which was erected on the softest green turf, not far
+from the brook. It was a long building, consisting of a slight
+framework of bamboos, just sufficiently strong to support a thatch
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_331'>331</span>of plaited cocoa-palm leaves; while for pillars, strong young
+bananas were transplanted bodily, their broad cool leaves making
+a lovely canopy of freshest green. The golden leaves of the
+dracæna were strung together to form deep fringes and festoons
+along the rafters; while a still deeper fringe, carefully prepared
+from the fibre of hybiscus bark, and dyed pale yellow, was festooned
+all round the whole building. There must have been many
+hundred yards of this. Just think of the labour of preparing it!
+That, of course, had been done at leisure.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In lieu of a table-cloth, fresh green banana-leaves were spread
+upon the grass down the centre of the building, and on these were
+laid all manner of good things, in dishes made of plaited leaves.
+Dainty little sucking-pigs, turkeys, and various preparations of
+chicken, were, as usual, the foundation of the feast. These had
+been brought in hot haste from Mrs Brander’s farm; while fish
+and all manner of crustacea seemed to have arrived by magic from
+the depths of the sea, the mountain streams, the mangrove-shore,
+and the coral-reef—each had sent its contribution. The delicious
+white <i>wurrali</i>, and their red relations, the cray-fish and lobsters,
+were there—shrimps and prawns, living and cooked, to suit all
+tastes. Raw fish and cooked fish, each with appropriate sauce;
+shell-fish of various sorts, including the delicate little oysters from
+the isthmus. Fruits of all sorts, mangoes and melons, strawberries,
+oranges, and bananas; yams, <i>taro</i>, and <i>kumala</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, sweet potatoes—and
+sundry other vegetables.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The obnoxious national drink of the South Seas, made from the
+chewed root of <i>kava</i>, <i>alias</i> <i>yangona</i>, seems to have quite disappeared
+in Tahiti, and sweet young cocoa-nuts supplied the only native
+drink; but these were supplemented by many a brimming bumper
+of the best foreign wines, and champagne flowed like water.
+Thanks to the graceful unaffected courtesy with which Narii and
+Ariipaea Salmon, and several of the ladies of the family, themselves
+waited on all their guests, all went off admirably; every one was
+well cared for, and mirth and laughter reigned on all sides. Some
+of the naval guests, however, were not so well accustomed, as are
+all the rest of us, to sitting curled up on the fine mats, which were
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_332'>332</span>spread for the guests all round the leafy table; and so obviously
+uncomfortable were some of the senior officers, that the kind-hearted
+ladies took pity on their foreign friends, and brought piles
+of cushions and pillows, to raise them; but as they could not raise
+the tables also, I fear that some of the gentlemen must have voted
+dining <i><span lang="fr">à l’indigène</span></i> rather a serious effort.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I should have mentioned that in “setting the table,” a pile of
+large bread-fruit leaves are laid before each person to act as plates,
+and to be changed as often as may be desired. Also, in lieu of
+tumblers, wine-glasses, and cruet-stands, each guest is provided
+with a half cocoa-nut shell, full of drinking water, and one of
+milk, a third with chopped cocoa-nut, and a fourth with salt water.
+The two latter are mixed together to make a sauce in which to dip
+the good things that are coming. This done, the fourth shell is
+filled with fresh water to act as a finger-glass. Half a bread-fruit,
+nicely cooked, is laid beside each place in lieu of bread. I fear, if
+I must confess the truth, that certain dainties in the way of creams
+and jellies, and tipsy-cakes, such as were not common in Tahiti in
+the days of Captain Cook, did find their way to our leafy bower,
+and were by no means despised.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Afterwards the band took up a good position outside the house,
+and a right merry dance ensued. As the gentlemen considerably
+outnumbered the ladies, great satisfaction was expressed when two
+very ladylike white girls suddenly arrived, robed in loose white
+sacques, and of course crowned with flowers. These turned out to
+be two of the middies, who kept up their part admirably throughout
+the evening.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Shah musters a first-rate theatrical corps, and they say they
+would gladly act for the amusement of their Tahitian friends, but
+unfortunately their stay is too short to admit of any such ploy.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We are all going to lunch on board to-day.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Friday Evening.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have had a very pleasant afternoon on the great ship. Soon
+after twelve we joined the royal party, for whom the admiral’s
+barge was waiting, the blue jackets receiving the king with uplifted
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_333'>333</span>oars. (I believe “tossed” is the correct expression.) He
+was treated throughout with full royal honours—twenty-one guns
+on arrival and departure, yards manned, marines and crew on
+parade, and all the officers in the agonies of full uniform, with
+which, however, they soon contrived to dispense. I think that
+as soon as Captain Bedford had got over his surprise at being
+asked by the queen where she might smoke, he realised that gold
+lace was superfluous! Tahitian ladies can never be happy for long
+without their cigarettes, and the queen has recently received a
+present of an enormous supply, which are fast disappearing in
+faint films of smoke!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our first introduction was to a large, very tame, black bear,
+which the sailors captured as a baby on Vancouver’s Isle, and
+which now plays with them like a very gentle big dog. It is a
+much nicer beast than the Russian bears brought by the Limier.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We were formally conducted all over the huge ship, and duly
+wondered at the length of the lower deck, with the row of great
+guns on either side; in short, we felt exceedingly proud of our
+British representative, and the French officers and their Peruvian
+friends kindly abstained from invidious comments on the recent
+“Huascar” affair, which had been freely discussed here before the
+arrival of the giant Shah. Now all allusion to that pugnacious
+little vessel was studiously avoided, and everything connected with
+the big ship called forth a chorus of undivided admiration.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>King Ariiaue was requested to touch an electric battery, and
+quick as lightning a whole broadside went off. In like manner
+Queen Marau fired a torpedo, which threw up the water in a
+gigantic fountain. We went through the ward-room, the large
+airy gun-room, and the officers’ daintily fitted-up cabins, exquisite
+in their neatness. The admiral has a most charming bedroom,
+drawing-room, and dining-room. In the latter we sat down to
+luncheon, about twenty-four persons, including the commanders of
+the other vessels.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When we returned on deck we found it transformed into a
+brilliant ball-room, all draped with flags, and full of people from
+Papeete. As we looked down from the upper decks and bridge,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_334'>334</span>a prettier scene could not be imagined. The dancing folk did
+dance to their hearts’ content; and those who, like myself, hold
+the Eastern creed, that all such hard work should be done by
+proxy, held possession of the higher levels, and sometimes varied
+the picture by turning to the beautiful panorama on every side of
+the harbour. To rest the band, there were two interludes, when
+the sailors danced hornpipes, and sang capital songs with choruses,
+which some of us enjoyed so much that we would fain have prolonged
+the concert. Unfortunately the king was tired of the
+proceedings, and wanted to hurry through the dances for which
+the queen had already engaged herself; so the singing was soon
+stopped, and the ball resumed till the sun had almost set behind
+Moorea, bathing its mountains in dreamy gold. A few minutes
+later the island stood out in clear-cut lilac, floating between a sea
+and sky of pale daffodil. Then we all returned ashore, and in the
+evening went to hear some <i>himènes</i>, specially got up for the edification
+of the strangers, who, however, by some unlucky misunderstanding,
+failed to appear. But as compared with those I had
+previously heard, these were very poor <i>himènes</i>, and I was almost
+glad that they were not taken as samples of what those charming
+glees can be.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-morrow morning the little Daring sails for Honolulu and
+the great Shah for Valparaiso. Every one regrets so speedy a
+departure, but the admiral says he dares not risk remaining with
+700 Englishmen in this port, over Christmas Day, as it would be
+impossible to keep the men on board, with the tempting shore so
+close, and that if they once landed, some would inevitably get
+drunk, and have a row with the French authorities. Our good
+consul is evidently much relieved by this wise, though unpopular
+decision.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It certainly is grievous that the jolly tars, of whom Britain is
+so justly proud, contrive to do such scant credit to their nation or
+themselves when they land in any foreign port. Here, for instance,
+day after day, among the crowds who land on the shore just under
+my verandah, I never hear a voice which seems to be raised in
+anger,—all seem bright and happy. I wish I could say the sounds
+are equally pleasant when a party of British sailors go past! <i>Then</i>
+the echoes that linger on the ear are sanguinary and repulsive; a
+painful contrast to the musical speech of the natives.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Shah is fortunate in possessing, in the Rev. —— Reed, a
+chaplain who is exceedingly popular with all on board, and who
+takes an immense interest in all that concerns his flock. Besides
+the regular band, he has trained one specially to accompany sacred
+music; and the church choir is said to be excellent. It would
+have been really pleasant to have heard our own Church service on
+Christmas Day. By some fatality I have not had that privilege
+since leaving England; last Christmas Day having been spent in
+the hateful work of transhipping on our way from Fiji to New
+Zealand; and the previous one was spent in the mountains of great
+Fiji. It has been the same as regards Easter. We had to sail
+from Marseilles on Easter morning 1875. Easter of 1876 was
+spent in a little Fijian village in the isle of Koro, and Easter 1877
+among the geysers of northern New Zealand. Where they may
+next find me, who can tell?</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I must close my letter that it may be sent on board the Daring
+at daybreak. The pretty Tahitian girls are working all to-night to
+finish arrowroot or bamboo fibre hats as parting gifts to the friends
+whom they will probably never meet again. “Telle est la vie!”—Good-night.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Your Loving Sister.</span></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_335'>335</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXIII.<br> <span class='c009'>THE ATOLL GROUP OF TETIAROA.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa, Tahiti</span>, <i>Christmas Day</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>A glad Christmas to you all, dear people! Would that some
+good fairy could lend me a wishing-cap, that I might look in by
+turns on each home gathering in the various corners of England
+and Scotland. These marked anniversaries are always trying days,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_336'>336</span>which awaken longings for the bodily presence of the dear kith and
+kin in the far country. But I confess I would rather that the said
+wishing-cap could bring all of you here, away from the bitter frosts
+and snows, to this paradise of sweet sunlight—and (selfish as it
+sounds when expressed in words) away from constant sight of the
+shivering ill-clad and half-starved people, whose deep-seated poverty
+you can in no wise alleviate,—to these isles, where want, at least,
+never appears prominently.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The whole family party of brothers and sisters, mother, aunts,
+cousins, and feudal retainers, moved out here again immediately
+after the departure of the big ship, and we have resumed the
+pleasant existence of delicious early bathes, and long idle days
+beneath the green shade by the lovely river.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I am sitting now in my favourite bower of dark hybiscus with
+lemon-coloured blossoms, which overarches the sparkling rivulet, as
+it branches from the main stream—an enchanting spot. I have
+just been reading the old Christmas service, which brings back
+many a vision of langsyne. There was a grand midnight Mass
+last night at the Catholic church, and of course service this morning,
+but none at the Protestant church, I believe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now I must go in to breakfast, <i>alias</i> luncheon, as a number of
+friends are expected. This evening one of the neighbours gives
+a large dance, to which, of course, we all go. Even non-dancers
+find such ploys attractive when they involve a pleasant evening
+drive in an open carriage, and no hot crowded rooms.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>December 31st.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have had another small cruise in the Seignelay, which was
+ordered to the isles of Tetiaroa, distant about twenty-four miles,
+thence to bring back the king, who went there last week in an
+open boat.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was arranged that I should sleep at the Red House, and go
+on board with Queen Marau at daybreak. It proved to be rather
+a stormy morning, with a good deal of sea on: the sunrise colouring
+was very striking,—the mountains shrouded in heavy gloom,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_337'>337</span>dark storm-clouds revealing the edge of their silvery lining, and
+a luminous prismatic halo playing all round the sun. Then the
+cloud-masses dispersed; dainty pink cloudlets floated on a sky
+which graduated from a pale-lemon hue to the colour of a thrush’s
+egg, so that the whole colouring suggested broken rainbow lights,
+changing incessantly for half an hour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Tetiaroa is a cluster of five low coral-isles, arranged in a circle,
+connected by coral-reef, thus almost forming an atoll. The isles
+are quite flat, nowhere rising more than four feet above the water.
+By nature barren, they have been artificially rendered fertile by
+the constant importation of vegetable mould from Tahiti; so now
+each isle is a dense grove of cocoa-palms, whose roots are washed
+by the salt spray.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Tetiaroa is to Papeete as Brighton is to London, a favourite
+bathing-place, where the Tahitians betake themselves to recruit
+their languid energies by a course of strong brine, though Tahiti
+appears to me too healthy to require any sanatorium. It is, however,
+worthy of note, that statistics go to prove that, as a rule, all
+the low coral-formations are healthy, whereas the inhabitants of
+high volcanic isles are frequently subject to fever and ague.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Though an imperfect atoll, this cluster was specially interesting
+to me, as a type of the eighty isles which form the Paumotus.
+Judging from this sample, I am satisfied that there is little to be
+seen from the deck of a ship. Could we ascend in a balloon,
+we should look down on a lagoon of shallow, very bright-green
+water, encircled by five palm-clad isles, connected by bands of
+rainbow-tinted reef,—say a garland of green roses and tricolour
+ribbon. Could our balloon float above the Paumotu group, eighty
+such garlands would be seen scattered on the deep-blue ocean, each
+encircled by an outer belt of submarine prismatic colour, edged
+with white breakers, marking where lies the barrier-reef.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At Tetiaroa, the only opening in the reef is so narrow as barely
+to admit a canoe. We had, however, fully intended to land, but
+the surf was so rough that we had to give up the idea, much to
+my regret, especially as the day was devoted to heavy gun practice,
+which of course involves ear-splitting noise and smoke. However,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_338'>338</span>I can stand fire pretty well, so took up a favourable position beside
+one of the cannons, and received instructions in artillery practice.
+But I confess I was not sorry when, after the fiftieth shot, the
+look-out man (who sat aloft like the sweet little cherub) announced
+the approach of the king, and presently we discerned a great crowd
+of natives wading across the reef, and dragging his canoe. Ship-boats
+put off to meet him; and though embarkation in such surf
+was no easy matter, it was safely accomplished, and a few minutes
+later the Seignelay received, not his majesty alone, but also a large
+number of pigs, and heaps of cocoa-nuts, presented to the lord of
+the isles, as parting gifts from loving subjects.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was late ere we landed at Papeete, so I again slept at the
+Red House, where one of the Seignelay boats called for me at
+daybreak, and landed me at the beautiful avenue of Fautawa,
+where I had a most enjoyable morning of quiet sketching, till Mrs
+Brander sent her pony-carriage to bring me home to the noonday
+breakfast.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now the young folk are preparing for a midnight frolic. They
+intend to have a very merry dance at a neighbour’s house; but
+as it is to be impromptu, and the hosts are not supposed to prepare
+any supper, each gentleman intends to carry a basket, ostensibly
+of fruit and flowers, beneath which lie concealed sundry
+bottles of champagne, wherewith to drink the New Year in. The
+girls are busy weaving garlands, that all may be flower-crowned
+to-night.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander and her mother alone represent the more thoughtful
+element, and go to Papeete to attend a great native midnight
+service. I am too tired to do either, so can only say to you, as to
+the Old Year, “Good-night! Good-night!”</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXIV.<br> <span class='c009'>NEW YEAR’S DAY IN TAHITI—ASCENT OF FAUTAWA VALLEY—OF PALM SALADS, SCREW-PINES, AND BREAD-FRUIT—PACKING MANGO-STONES—RETURN OF GILBERT ISLANDERS—DEPARTURE OF THE SEIGNELAY.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa</span>, <i>New Year’s Day, 1878</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The dancers of last night did not come home till 3.30, and at
+7 <span class='fss'>A.M.</span> the band of La Magicienne came here to serenade Mrs
+Brander, and played divinely. Many friends drove out to offer
+their New Year greetings, and so, as if by magic, the lawn was
+soon crowded with a joyous party, all the girls dressed in the
+prettiest, freshest of sacques, and their hair wreathed with bright
+flowers. What could they do but dance? The band, having
+pledged their hostess in her best champagne, played with a will for
+a couple of hours, when they were provided with a substantial
+breakfast, and then all the gentlemen drove off to another place
+belonging to Mrs Brander, there to preside at a great breakfast to
+all her <i>employés</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I drove into Papeete with pretty Pree, Manihinihi, and Naani,
+to call on Marau, Moë, and other friends; and so we began the
+New Year brightly and happily, in ideal, civilised-South-Sea
+fashion.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>January 25th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Ever since I arrived here, we have been planning an expedition
+to the French fort at some distance up this valley, at a height of
+about 1600 feet above the sea. So one beautiful morning last
+week, several friends from the Seignelay arrived here before sunrise,
+and Ariipaea Salmon undertook to be our guide. He had,
+unfortunately, hurt his foot, so he and I were privileged to ride,
+the others walking.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>For a considerable distance the path winds through a dense
+thicket of guavas, all self-sown, and considered by the people as
+great a curse as the (equally imported) <i>lantanna</i> in Ceylon, both
+plants having a fatal facility for spreading and taking permanent
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>possession of every neglected corner. They are the Chinamen of
+the vegetable world, and are quite as useful in their way. The
+guava forms the principal firewood of Tahiti. It bears an abundant
+crop of excellent fruit, which is now ripening just as the
+mango season is finishing; and I think the Tahitian guava is better
+than those of India and Ceylon. Certainly it has a far less sickly
+smell. Cattle and horses alike munch both fruit and leaves with
+avidity, so I cannot see why the guava should be so generally
+despised; but the fact remains, strange to say, no one here seems
+ever to think of making the delicious crimson jelly which we, in
+England, prize so highly. The fruit is left to drop from the trees
+utterly unheeded.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Further up the valley the track becomes steep and narrow, and
+in places runs along the face of the cliff, with the rushing stream
+immediately below, and overhanging boughs festooned with vines
+growing so rankly as somewhat to endanger a rider. The beautiful
+large granadilla passion-flower here runs riot, but its fruit is now
+all finished. When ripe it resembles a good-sized pumpkin of a
+bright golden colour, and contains a multitude of seeds like those
+of a melon, each encased in white jelly. These lie inside a sweetish
+pulp about two inches thick, which is generally thrown away, but
+is nevertheless quite worth cooking as a vegetable.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I found the drooping branches so troublesome, that I foolishly
+abandoned my horse very early, and had a much longer tramp than
+I counted on. We had not gone very far ere we quite lost the
+foot-track, and coming to a place where two ravines and two
+streams meet, Ariipaea, who had not been here for a long time,
+quite forgot which we were to follow; so first we tried the right
+side, and clambered up a steep and difficult path, till we were convinced
+that we were on the wrong track, and returning to the junction,
+we tried the other ravine, crossing and recrossing the stream.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>At length, after much loss of time and energy, we concluded
+that our best course was again to return to the junction and there
+breakfast, trusting that by good luck it might prove to be the day
+on which “Père Fautawa” (as the old soldier in charge of the fort
+is commonly called) would be returning from Papeete with his
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span>rations. Fortune favoured us; and ere we had finished the contents
+of our hamper (carried by French sailors) the old man appeared,
+and led the way by a middle path between the two streams.
+It was a very steep scramble, among great boulders and masses of
+rent crag, half hidden by the wealth of tree-ferns, young palms,
+wild bananas, and other tropical foliage, such as ginger, turmeric,
+wild caladium, and dracæna. The stems of the large trees are
+covered with parasitic ferns, especially the handsome bird’s-nest
+fern, which here grows luxuriantly.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After crossing several small streams, we climbed to the verge of
+a deep ravine, at the head of which rises a precipitous cliff 600
+feet high. Over this rushes a cataract of white foam, which fades
+into shadowy mist as it loses itself among the tall palms and
+feathery foliage of the tree-ferns and parasitic vines which veil its
+base. Above the fall is situated the French fortress.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The interest of the place does not lie in the fort of the foreigners,
+but in the fact that this was the last stronghold of the Tahitians,
+in their struggle to retain their independence and resist the hated
+invaders. Here it was that the last man who fell in that brave
+strife was shot, betrayed by one of his countrymen, who now reaps
+the reward of his treachery in the enjoyment of foreign gold and
+the red ribbon of the Legion of Honour. This was the last blood
+shed. Now the red roses grow undisturbed on the ramparts, and
+the lines of defence are so many terraced gardens, where the solitary
+old soldier grows strawberries for sale in Papeete, whither he
+descends once or twice a week to draw his rations and to see the
+world.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It is a lonely ending for the old man’s days, and a strange contrast
+to his former barrack-life. Now he is often for days together
+enveloped in mists, which enfold him in an isolated cloud-world.
+It is comparatively cold, too, at this high level, where at nights the
+thermometer sometimes falls below 60°. At Père Fautawa’s bidding
+we gathered ripe strawberries from his little garden, the first
+I had seen growing for many a day.<a id='r68'></a><a href='#f68' class='c017'><sup>[68]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'><span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>Then while the sailors busied themselves preparing coffee, we
+dispersed in search of pleasant pools for bathing, a luxury never
+more prized than after such a scramble in a tropical valley. Hitherto
+the day had been quite lovely, now it rapidly overcast, and
+heavy clouds came down and hid the Diadème—the beautiful
+crown-shaped mountain, that heads the valley. It is called by the
+natives Maiao, and though its height does not exceed 4363 feet, it
+is one of the most remarkable forms in Tahiti.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Ere we had finished our welcome coffee it began to pour so
+heavily that I voted for camping where we were; but the others
+feared a freshet, such as might make the streams impassable for
+days. So they voted for starting instantly, and of course carried
+the day; and we descended the steep mountain-path in blinding
+rain, which blurred all beauty, and rushed in rivulets beneath our
+feet. We were so thoroughly saturated, that crossing and recrossing
+the stream ceased to give us a moment’s thought; and by the time
+we reached this house, I confess to having been thoroughly exhausted,
+as was to be expected, after a scramble of fully eight
+miles without any time to rest.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Of course, as soon as we got back the weather cleared, and we
+had a most lovely evening, followed by an exquisite moonlight
+night, and a sunrise which, seen from Fautawa, would have been
+too fascinating. It was with sore regret that I gazed upward to
+the sunlit peaks; while for days afterwards I felt too utterly done
+to do more than creep about the garden.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The upper heights of the valley are wellnigh inaccessible. They
+culminate in a crag-ridge about 4000 feet in height, forming a crest
+so narrow as to be a mere saddle barely three feet across—literally
+a gigantic crag-wall, wooded to the summit. Few are the bold
+spirits who have cared to scale this barrier in their endeavour to
+cross the island. Only by painful climbing from ledge to ledge,
+clinging to overhanging trees, trailing screw-pine, and sturdy vines,
+which act as natural ropes, is it possible to make any way. Indeed
+it is necessary to carry strong ropes in case of emergency; and
+little help can be expected from native guides, who never dream of
+expending toil so fruitlessly, unless worried into doing so by some
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>unrestful foreigner. I am sure I do not wonder at their being
+satisfied with lower levels, seeing how enchanting these are. I find
+day after day gliding by in such peaceful enjoyment, that time
+passes unmarked, and the further expeditions, of which we have
+sometimes talked, seem to involve too great exertion. Evidently
+I am becoming indolent in these dreamy southern isles!</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>January 30th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have just been feasting on a cocoa-palm salad, which would
+make the fortune of the happy <i>chef</i> who could introduce it at an
+alderman’s feast. That, fortunately for the plantations, is quite
+out of his power, unless some process be discovered by which to
+preserve uncooked vegetables. For this dainty consists of the
+embryo primary shoot of the tree—the unborn fronds, which lie
+curled up within in a close compact white mass, about the size of a
+man’s arm, and resembling a gigantic stick of celery, with a flavour
+of filberts. Of course so costly a dish as this (which sacrifices the
+life of the tree) is rarely indulged in, save when a hurricane has
+snapped the crown of the tall palm, or when some rich chief wishes
+to entertain a guest, regardless of expense.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another very agreeable product of the cocoa-palm, which you in
+England can never hope to taste, is an over-ripe nut, when in the
+very act of sprouting. Previous to this, a very curious change has
+occurred. As you must know, the germ of the plant lies just
+within the three little eyes, which we used in nursery days to call
+the monkey’s face. Indeed I fear that in those days of our ignorance
+we imagined they were the marks left by the stalk, quite forgetting
+that the nut lies in a large outer case of that brown fibre
+which, in these our later days, we know as “coir.” Well, the
+sharp end of the nut lies next the stalk, and the monkey-face at
+the further end, so <i>that</i> nursery theory was fallacious, like some
+others.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When the nut is fully ripe, a fibrous, spongy substance begins to
+form all round the germ, and this gradually extends, absorbing both
+the so-called milk and the hard kernel, till the whole shell is full
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span>of a soft, sweet, white growth, like a very light <i>blanc-mange</i>. If
+at this stage the nut escapes the <i>gourmet</i> of the South Seas, the
+young germ will soon force open one of the three eyes, and, working
+its way through the fibrous husk, begin its heavenward growth;
+while from the other two eyes will sprout two rootlets, which
+instinctively turn downwards, and likewise penetrating the thick
+protecting outer case, find their way to mother earth, and there
+strike root. Still the white sponge within the nut goes on expanding,
+till at length it splits the hard wooden shell, and then
+gradually decays, and so forms a light nourishing soil, which acts
+as mother’s milk to the baby tree in its delicate early days. After
+a while it needs no such provision, but flourishes, in grace and
+beauty, where other trees would starve.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I wonder that no one has ever discovered in the cocoa-palm a
+meet emblem of charity. Of all plants that grow, none asks so
+little, or gives so largely. It matters not how dry and barren is the
+shallow soil, or how briny the coral-sand, washed by every rising
+tide, the hardy palm strikes its roots among the fragments of coral,
+and, bending to the gale, weathers the wild storms, and yields its
+generous increase as abundantly as its more fortunate brethren
+in the rich soil of sheltered, well-watered valleys. The poorest
+islander on the loneliest atoll, possessed of a few cocoa-palms, can
+exist. They give him food and drink, a fibrous material, all ready
+woven, like coarse canvas, for dress; leaves for thatch, and oil for
+light, and for personal adornment and comfort. To obtain the
+latter, he collects a lot of old nuts, such as those we see for sale in
+England, and scraping out the kernel into some old canoe, leaves
+the whole mass for some days exposed to the sun, till the pure oil
+exudes, and without further trouble he stores it in any vessels
+he may possess—gourds or bamboos. Of course, a European who
+trades in palm-oil prefers to collect it in the form of <i>coppra</i>—<i>i.e.</i>,
+dried cocoa-nut—as a much larger amount of oil is obtained by
+pressure of machinery.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Another hardy child of these coral-isles is the pandanus, or
+screw-pine, as it is commonly called, because its leaves, which grow
+in tufts at the tips of the branches, are all set like a screw, twisting
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span>round the stem, which is thus marked with a spiral pattern from
+the root upward. Like the cocoa-palm, it grows in the clean dry
+coral-sand, where there is apparently no moisture; yet when cut it
+is found to be full of oily sap. The wood is close and hard, and
+though rarely exceeding five or six inches in diameter, it often
+grows perfectly upright, for fifteen or twenty feet, and yields excellent
+posts for building; they are, however, hollow like a bamboo.
+The long drooping leaves are valuable for thatch, being from three
+to five feet in length, and about three inches wide. They are
+edged with sharp prickles, but, when torn into strips, are useful
+for plaiting mats and canoe-sails.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The women steep the leaves in sea-water, and then beat them
+with a mallet till all the green skin comes off, leaving a beautifully
+white silky fibre, which they dye red, yellow, and brown, and then
+plait into wonderfully fine sashes, about a foot wide. It has been
+suggested that this pure white fibre would prove a valuable material
+for paper-making, but I have not heard of its being tried. A
+stronger fibre is obtained by crushing the aerial roots, which this
+strange tree throws out in all directions, forming stays by which it
+protects itself against the violent gales,—a necessary precaution,
+where the main root grows only in the sand.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The flower of the pandanus is exceedingly fragrant; but though
+I have seen thousands of screw-pines, I have rarely had the luck
+to find one in blossom. Its fruit resembles a coarse pine-apple.
+When ripe it becomes bright scarlet, and the Samoans use it for
+making necklaces. It is divided into honeycomb sections. When
+the fruit is ripe these fall apart, each being a separate conical lump,
+of which the inner end is soft and saccharine, and can be chewed
+like sugar-cane.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When the capsules are thoroughly dried, they can be cracked,
+and yield a kernel, which is edible; and in the barren isles, near
+the equator, this fruit is considered a valuable product. It is dried
+and grated, and the sweet brown sawdust thus obtained is stored
+as the only substitute for flour; and cakes of it are baked, as
+occasion may require, to eke out a fish diet, which is not always
+forthcoming. It is said to be wholesome, nourishing food; but in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>these more luxuriant southern isles I have never seen it eaten by
+the natives, only by the foreign labour—<i>i.e.</i>, the men imported
+from the groups to the north-east, who are engaged to work on the
+plantations. In their own isles they have discovered a means of
+steaming and mashing the fruit which, when fermented, yields a
+strong and highly intoxicating spirit. The whalers who years ago
+settled among them, taught them to improve on this liquor by
+distillation, and also instructed them how to obtain a fiery spirit
+from the innocent palm-trees. So, thanks to their tuition, and
+generally civilising influence, the Line islanders have become
+infinitely more debased than they previously were.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It does seem too bad, does it not, to extract poison from these
+useful trees? But whether it be orange-rum in Tahiti, or barley-bree
+in the isles nearer home, I suppose the white race will find
+means to procure fire-water wherever it goes, and seems to turn
+every sort of plant to the same use. What with rum from the
+sugar-cane, and fiery spirit from the sweet dracæna root, and even
+from innocent bananas, it appears as if every good gift of heaven
+was liable to be misused in like manner.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I hear some people say that they weary of the monotony of the
+cocoa-palms; and certainly a low coral-shore, with an unbroken
+line of palm-trees, is somewhat dull. Here, however, there is an
+amazing variety in the foliage of the seaboard. Besides the many
+beautiful large-leaved shrubs, there are various handsome trees,
+which attain a great size, and, as I described to you, many grow so
+close to the shore that their boughs literally dip into the sea.
+Some of these are fruit-bearing. The <i>vi</i> bears bunches of large
+yellow plums, and the <i>ahia</i><a id='r69'></a><a href='#f69' class='c017'><sup>[69]</sup></a> yields a lovely pink fruit, with white
+juicy flesh.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But of all the indigenous trees none can compare for beauty and
+value to the bread-fruit, which, though it demands a richer soil
+in the first instance, rivals the cocoa-palm in its manifold uses.
+Though it does not give drink to the thirsty, or coir for ropes and
+matting, its resin forms a strong glue which is useful in caulking
+the boats, and the bark of the young branches yields a fibre from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span>which strong cloth is made. Its timber is exceedingly valuable;
+and its thick glossy leaves, which are sometimes eighteen inches in
+length by about twelve in breadth, are also turned to good account.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But of course it is chiefly prized for its abundant food-supply.
+Each tree yields three, sometimes four, crops annually; and as there
+are in these isles about fifty recognised varieties, which ripen at
+different seasons, it follows that, with a little care in cultivation,
+the supply might very easily be so regulated as never to fail. A
+large bread-fruit tree in full bearing is certainly a most beautiful
+object, with its wealth of green or yellow fruit hanging from
+beneath the handsome deeply indented leaves. A good tree will
+bear several hundred fruits—each about eight inches long by six
+wide,—with a rough green rind, divided into a lozenge-shaped
+pattern. This is sometimes peeled off before the white pulp is
+cooked; but I infinitely prefer the bread-fruit roasted whole on the
+embers or baked in the earth in a native oven, when the blackened
+rind is scraped off, and the inside is found thoroughly cooked, and
+in taste something like the thick scones known in the colonies as
+“dampers,” or like the cold “chupatties” we used to eat on the
+march in the Himalayas—floury but rather tough. I don’t think
+that these natural loaves are to be compared to a good potato.
+However, they are the bread of the favoured tropics; and nowhere
+else does mother nature yield so much wholesome food for so
+little human toil.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>You need not, however, imagine that these good things are
+common property, to be gathered and cooked by every hungry
+man. On the contrary, every cocoa-palm and fruit-bearing tree on
+these or any other isles that I know of, has its owner, and is very
+likely the sole wealth of a whole family. So each fruit commands
+as regular a market-value in the South Sea Isles, as do the apples
+and potatoes of the English farmers. This is a simple fact, apparently
+not always recognised by visitors and others, who occasionally
+write to request their friends living here to send them cases of
+oranges and other fruits, as if they supposed that these were to be
+had for the mere trouble of gathering and packing!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Speaking of gathering and packing, I have for some time past
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span>been devoting a considerable amount of energy to collecting mango-stones,
+or rather kernels, with a view to sending them to Fiji. It
+is only about eighteen years since the mango-tree was introduced to
+these isles from Rio Janeiro, and so wonderful is the rapidity with
+which it has spread, that it now holds its place as the most marked
+feature in the vegetation of this group. Every homestead is embowered
+in these and other fruit-bearing trees, and for the last two
+months every man, woman, and child (to say nothing of quadrupeds)
+seems to be for ever eating ripe, delicious, golden mangoes;
+and every road, indeed the ground in every direction, is strewn with
+<i>les noyaux</i>; though the people so fully appreciate the luxury of a
+feast by the river-side, where they may enjoy the juicy dainties
+without the smallest respect for conventional appearances, that an
+immense number of the finest kernels are thrown into the water—indeed,
+since I have been so anxious to collect good sorts, I observe
+with annoyance that though I entreat these careless easy-going
+people (<i>le peuple</i>) to throw the best stones in some corner for me,
+they seem by preference (or probably by force of habit) always to
+chuck them into the water.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The French have taken immense trouble in perfecting this
+valuable fruit, and have now introduced so many excellent varieties
+that one crop succeeds another in rotation. The round mango is
+succeeded by the golden egg, and that by a small purple, while the
+large long sort seems inexhaustible. Best of all are those specially
+cultivated by Monseigneur Janssen, Bishop of Axièri, who has
+raised a super-excellent mango with a very large fruit, and a long
+stone so thin and flat as to resemble the inner sole of a child’s
+shoe.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The bishop has also been inspired with the happy thought of
+distributing mango-stones in other groups, and sent off a large consignment
+last month by a vessel going direct to New Caledonia.
+He is most kind in helping me to collect a good assortment for
+Fiji: at the same time, he warns me that taking the best seed is
+no sure warrant for getting equally good plants, as no other tree
+exists, so faithless in reproducing its own kind, and variety of soil
+produces every conceivable variety of tree. You may take twin
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>fruits from one tree, and plant them a few yards to right and
+left of the parent tree. One will grow up infinitely superior to its
+mother—the other will be all stone and fibre, and scarcely fit for
+the pigs. The only certainty lies in taking grafts of the good ones,
+and so utilising the stock; also in planting, the richest soil must
+be selected, as the tree has a long tap-root and strikes deep.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now there is abundance of rich soil in Fiji, and the ordinary
+vegetation is identical with that of Tahiti; so there can be no
+reason why the mango should not be acclimatised there as well as
+here, and it would be a very great satisfaction to me to aid in
+bestowing so great a boon on the young colony. I am sure I
+deserve that the attempt should succeed, for it has already cost me
+an immense amount of trouble. In spite of all precautions, of
+careful drying and turning, &#38;c., a very large number of the stones
+I collected in the early part of the season have already sprouted.
+Some are quite respectable young trees.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So now I am making a more systematic attempt, and have
+devoted several days to driving to all the very finest gardens in
+the neighbourhood, where, with the help of a pretty Tahitian boy
+(who rather enjoyed such a chance of an unlimited feed), I set to
+work to collect the half-decayed fruit, which lay rotting under all
+the best trees. I can tell you that cleaning the stones was about
+the hottest, dirtiest, and most fatiguing work I have done for many
+a day. However, notwithstanding the heat, I stuck to it for six
+hours one day and three the next, and two hours on several other
+days. And the result is a splendid lot of <i>noyaux</i>, which every
+morning I turn and re-turn, in order to dry them thoroughly,
+hoping to prevent their sprouting like the first lot. But in spite
+of all my precautions, the large flat seeds of the finest mango have
+already done so—so they, at least, can only be propagated by
+graffs. Another difficulty is, that hitherto all my efforts to send
+plants from Fiji to England by Wardian cases of island manufacture
+have proved abortive. In every case the plants have died, so
+I do not feel much encouraged to try the experiment again.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The great difficulty lies in the length of time that must elapse
+ere either plants or stones can reach Fiji; as, of course, such a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span>chance as that of the vessel which brought me thence, direct to
+this group, is of very rare occurrence. The probability is, that the
+seeds which I am now collecting will have to wait for an opportunity
+of being sent by sailing vessel 2000 miles north to Honolulu;
+there to be transhipped to a Pacific mail-steamer, and be
+carried south-west 4000 miles to Sydney; where they would find
+another steamer to take them the 1700 miles to Levuka, whence
+they will find their way by sundry small sailing-boats to the
+various Fijian isles. A somewhat circuitous route, you must
+allow!</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>February 3d.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>After all, I have found a somewhat more direct route by which
+to send some of my mango-stones. Le Limier was despatched
+to-day on special service to the Gilbert Isles, thence to proceed to
+New Caledonia, and her very obliging captain, Commandant Puèch,
+offered to carry a large case to the care of the British Consul (Mr
+Layard), who will forward it to Sir Arthur Gordon by the first
+opportunity. So I set to work to pack 4000 carefully selected
+stones, laying them side by side as neatly as though building a
+wall with children’s little bricks. It took me a whole day’s work,
+and, considering that each seed has passed through my hands six
+or eight times, while collecting, cleaning, scraping, drying, turning,
+selecting, and finally packing, you will not wonder that I looked
+after the departing case with a feeling of quite maternal interest.<a id='r70'></a><a href='#f70' class='c017'><sup>[70]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The mission on which Le Limier is now bound is to take back
+200 of the Arawais, inhabitants of the Gilbert Islands, who were
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>brought here as foreign labourers about nine years ago, on the
+understanding that they would very soon be sent home again,
+whereas they have been detained all these years. When Admiral
+Serres commenced critical inquiries on the various abuses at which
+previous governors had winked, this fact became known, and he
+decided that the labourers should be sent back soon after the New
+Year—an announcement which filled their masters with dismay, in
+view of ungathered crops, but was hailed by the Arawais with joy
+till they learnt by what vessel they were to travel. Then they
+were filled with alarm, believing that so large a ship would not
+dare to risk the dangerous navigation between their little isles;
+and that they would probably all be landed (as has often been
+done in similar cases) on one or two of the principal isles,
+where they would be left quite as much in a strange land as in
+Tahiti, and, moreover, with the certainty of being robbed, and the
+probability of being eaten by hostile tribes. So a considerable
+number have refused to go on this occasion. Indeed M. Puèch is
+himself much perturbed as to how to accomplish this really difficult
+business.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>He invited a few friends, including myself, to go on board at
+the last moment, to <i>faire les adieux</i>. The vessel presented a
+curious scene—picturesque, certainly, with abundance of bright
+colour, but more like an emigrant ship than a man-of-war. Le
+Limier is so constructed that she has not sufficient accommodation
+to allow of all the crew sleeping below at one time. So these
+wretched Arawais, including women and children, are taken only
+as deck passengers; and as the cruise, under steam, cannot take
+less than from sixteen to eighteen days, during which they must
+take their chance of whatever weather they may encounter, you
+can understand that the voyage does not promise to be a pleasure-trip.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The vessel carries much extra coal, to provide against the danger
+of a calm. So half her deck is loaded with this dirty store, and
+the 200 Gilbert Islanders are huddled together on the main-deck.
+Each labourer has a trade box, containing a few clothes, a good deal
+of tobacco, and some cheap toys for children; and this is <i>all</i> they
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>carry home as the fruit of their long exile. Nine years of ceaseless
+toil in a far country, repaid by a little wooden box full of cheap
+rubbish!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>While we were on board, a little baby died on deck in its
+mother’s arms. Some fellow-countrymen, who had come to see
+their friends start, undertook to carry the poor little body ashore
+for burial. The father opened his box of trade, and took out a few
+yards of coarse printed calico, which he gave to the said friends,
+apparently as payment for their trouble. The poor mother fell on
+her face at the gangway, wailing piteously. She appeared utterly
+miserable. It was a sad beginning for a voyage, and we all doubly
+regretted the departure of our friends with such an unpleasant three
+weeks in prospect.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When I saw how terribly overcrowded the vessel was, I thought
+Captain Puèch must surely repent of his kindness in offering to
+carry the big case of mango-stones; but on the contrary, he made
+it appear as though I had done him quite a favour in letting him
+take charge of the precious seeds, which, we trust, will hereafter
+become so valuable a boon to Fiji. Kind, good friend, we all
+wished him <i>bon voyage</i> with all our hearts; then returning to the
+shore we watched the good ship sail, amid hearty cheers from Le
+Seignelay, and with large bouquets on each mast, to mark that she
+is homeward-bound.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>The Red House, Papeete</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Friday, February 8th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Ségond, French man-of-war, has just arrived from San Francisco,
+bringing the new French governor—a fine jovial naval officer—with
+an A.D.C. who, like his chief, is well known in Tahiti for
+his strong liking for natives and native customs.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>So while the appointment has caused great delight to one section
+of the community, others foresee a speedy relapse from the high-pressure
+morality, and various reforms which, under the good admiral’s
+<i>régime</i>, made Papeete so strictly respectable that its own
+inhabitants said the like had never been seen under any previous
+rule. But everything changes with the admiral and governor of
+the day, and every one here declares that the ships in harbour
+during the last few months have been of such exceptionally good
+type that the result has been a model era, probably too perfect to
+last.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>To-morrow Le Seignelay is to sail for Valparaiso to restore M.
+D’Oncieue, M. Fayzeau, and the band, to La Magicienne. So
+to-day Mrs Brander gave a farewell breakfast at Fautawa to as
+many as could come, after which we all adjourned here, as being
+more convenient for a great reception at Government House to-night,
+when the good band will play for the last time. Henceforth
+Papeete must be content with the feebler efforts of a band recruited
+from her own citizens, but as yet not up to the mark.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Saturday, February 9th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Le Seignelay sailed this morning, and with most true regret I
+bade adieu to the pleasant companions of the last five months.
+With unchanging kindness they again offered me the hospitality of
+the ship, and placed a cabin at my disposal in case I cared to visit
+Valparaiso; but I do not feel tempted by that unpicturesque coast,
+and its very gay and gorgeously apparelled Spanish-German society.
+In a very few days the Maramma must return from the Sandwich
+Isles with her cargo of cattle, and then I hope to start for the
+volcanoes.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+  <span class='pageno' id='Page_353'>353</span>
+  <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER XXV.<br> <span class='c009'>HURRICANE AT THE PAUMOTUS—MAHENA PLANTATION—WATCHING FOR VESSELS—FAREWELL TO TAHITI.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c005'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Fautawa</span>, <i>Tuesday, 12th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>News has just reached us of an awful hurricane and tidal wave
+which has swept the whole group of the Paumotus, and it is not
+known how far its influence has extended. Nothing of the sort
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_354'>354</span>has occurred in these seas in the present century. The French
+Resident and Mr Boosey, one of Mrs Brander’s agents, have just
+arrived in the Elgin to ask for assistance, as the whole settlement
+of Anaa is a heap of hopeless ruin. It was a flourishing little
+town, about half the size of Levuka; it had about 150 houses,
+good stores, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Mormon churches,
+Resident’s house, &#38;c. The Seignelay touched there on that memorable
+cruise to the Marquesas, so I missed the chance of doing a
+historical, antediluvian sketch.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mrs Brander is most anxious about the fate of her other manager,
+Mr Macgee; indeed we all are so, for he is a very good fellow, and
+he has been staying with the family here for some time. He is
+supposed to have been out that night in a very small vessel, which
+is missing. The gale must have been appalling. It is calculated
+that on Anaa alone, 300,000 cocoa-palms must have fallen, and Mrs
+Brander’s loss in produce, stores and buildings, boats, three small
+ships and their cargoes, is reckoned at 40,000 dollars, equal to about
+£10,000—a serious night’s work.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Ségond is to be despatched to-morrow morning, loaded with
+provisions, timber, and all things likely to prove useful in this
+emergency. She is to go the round of every large isle in the group,
+and do what she can to help the wretched inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>They say these tidal waves always accompany an eruption of
+some volcano. I hope I shall not find that I have just missed one
+at Hawaii!</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Mahena Plantation, Point Venus</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Thursday, Feb. 14th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>This is another place belonging to Mrs Brander, who sent me
+here with her manager, Mr Lander, a German, that I might have a
+few quiet days for sketching in this neighbourhood. There is a
+large house here, close to the sea, where the family occasionally
+come for a change. I was received by Toetoe, a handsome, stalwart
+lass, daughter of a chief of Tupuai, the romantic isle of which Byron
+sings in “The Island.” She introduced me to pets of all sorts—rabbits,
+cows, horses, cats and dogs, especially a wee brown dog
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span>“Moosie.” She gave me milk without limit—always a luxury—and
+in the evening we wandered by grassy paths beneath the cocoa-palms;
+and then in the clear moonlight started for a walk along
+the shore, which here is of a firm black sand, on which large waves
+break in as full force as on our own north coast. This is due to
+the fact that there is a passage through the coral-reef, just opposite
+the house; so the sea rolls in unchecked.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Monday, 18th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>I have been rather worried for some days by prickly-heat, from
+which many persons suffer almost continually in all tropical countries.
+It is a general all-overish, tingling irritation of skin, very
+unpleasant to the sufferer, who, however, receives no compassion,
+as he is pleasantly informed that it is a symptom of excellent health,
+and a safeguard against possible fever! Sea-bathing is generally
+recommended as a cure, so that sunrise and moonlight alike find
+me in pickle in the briny waters, where, borrowing courage from
+Toetoe’s presence and good example (she being, as a matter of
+course, a perfect swimmer), I venture on a dash through the breaking
+waves to the pleasant calm water beyond; where, however, our
+peaceful enjoyment is considerably marred by the dread of sharks,
+which here venture close to the shore.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have made various expeditions, walking and driving, to
+picturesque points on land and shore; and a day at the lighthouse
+enabled me to complete my previous sketch of Orofena, the highest
+mountain of Tahiti.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now we are just starting to drive back along the coast to Papeete—a
+lovely route, by which, as you may remember, I last travelled
+by torchlight, on our return from the grand circuit of the isle.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>February 19th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>We have for some time been anxiously watching for the return
+of the Maramma, Mrs Brander’s fine large ship, which is bringing
+cattle from the Sandwich Isles, and which will, I hope, take me
+there on her next trip, supposing no mischance has befallen her.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>But she is now considerably overdue, and fears are expressed that
+she may have disobeyed orders, and gone to the dangerous coast of
+Kauai, thence to fetch cattle. Or she may have encountered the
+hurricane.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>February 20th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>A vessel has just come into port from Honolulu, bringing cattle.
+She has been nineteen days on the voyage, and reports that the
+Maramma is following.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In the evening the lovely moonlight tempted us to visit our old
+haunts, the place where the admiral’s band used to play every
+evening, but where, under the new <i>régime</i>, the hideous <i>upa-upa</i> is
+now nightly danced for the edification of the admiring crowd.
+There was the usual large picturesque assemblage, but their gaiety
+was of a more demonstrative type than heretofore. In short, the
+admiral’s excellent restrictions, which were to inaugurate quite a
+new era in Tahiti, have already melted “like snowdrift in thaw”
+before the cheerful presence of the new ruler; who, on the very
+night of M. D’Oncieue’s departure, summoned many damsels (friends
+of former days, and noted dancers of the obnoxious native wriggle)
+to Government House, where they were hospitably entertained.
+Of course news of this complete subversion of six months’ compulsory
+reformation quickly spread to the remotest districts, and
+from all parts of the island all the dancers flocked to Papeete,
+where they now assemble every evening before Government House,
+and the crowd thus attracted is of a sort such as ladies would not
+care to mix in for long. To-night there was some rather pretty
+singing, but not to be compared with the true <i>himènes</i>—and from
+the laughter of the crowd it might be inferred that the words would
+not bear translation.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>Friday, 22d.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Ségond has returned from the Paumotus with a lamentable
+tale of disaster. We are all, however, much relieved at hearing
+that our friend Mr Macgee is safe; though he had a most narrow
+escape on the awful night of the hurricane, when he happened to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span>be on the isle of Kaukura, which seems to have been the centre of
+the cyclone, and consequently suffered most. He had passed this
+island a few days previously in the Marion, but the sea had been
+too heavy to allow of so large a vessel venturing to approach.
+Business compelling him to return, he did so in the May, a smaller
+craft. Both vessels belong to Mrs Brander, and are named after
+her daughters.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Like the generality of the Paumotus, Kaukura consists of a
+circular group of low flat islets, either detached or connected by a
+reef, thus forming an atoll enclosing a calm sea-lagoon; the whole
+being protected from the outer ocean by an encircling reef. An
+existence more calm and peaceful than that of the dwellers in these
+coral-girt isles can scarcely be conceived; and a storm such as that
+which has devastated the group, is of such rare occurrence as to be
+little dreaded in the chances of daily life. Eighty years are said
+to have elapsed since the last hurricane occurred in these latitudes.
+Considering that many of these islets are not three feet above the
+water-level,—that ten feet is considered high ground, and fifteen is
+about the maximum elevation,—you can understand how appalling
+is the danger caused by any eccentricity of tide.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>As cocoa-nuts are the chief produce of the group, and indeed the
+sole property of many families, it is customary to protect the interests
+of each member of the community from all danger of poaching
+on the part of his neighbour, by laying a <i>taboo</i> on the whole
+crop until a given day. I suppose I need scarcely tell you what is
+meant by this ceremony, which, under slightly varied names (<i>tabu</i>
+in New Zealand, <i>tambu</i> in Fiji, <i>tapu</i> in Samoa, and <i>kapu</i> in
+Hawaii), is common throughout the Pacific, and implies that something
+has been reserved or rendered sacred by order of the chief.
+In olden days the multitudinous forms of <i>taboo</i> were to all these
+islanders a heavy burden, weighing grievously upon them in every
+phase of life; and the infringement of the most arbitrary rule thus
+imposed was generally punished by death. Even now a formerly
+declared <i>taboo</i> carries such weight, and appeals so forcibly to the
+superstitions of the people, that it is almost invariably respected.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Thus in the matter of the cocoa-nut crop not a nut from the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span>reserved plantations can be touched, till, on the removal of the
+prohibition, all the proprietors and their families, together with all
+interested in the purchase of the nuts, or in securing payment of
+debts previously contracted, assemble at the <i>Rahui</i>, as it is called,
+and there build for themselves frail booths of palm-leaves—a sorry
+shelter at the best.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>In such a leaf-village, on one of the detached islets, all the
+inhabitants of Kaukura had assembled, together with a number of
+traders from other places, in all numbering nearly 200 persons,
+when they were overtaken by the awful hurricane of the 6th
+February. For some hours previously the greatest anxiety had
+prevailed. A strong easterly breeze had for three consecutive days
+lashed the waters of the lagoon into fury, then gradually veered
+round to the west with ever increasing force. The outer ocean,
+now rising in tumultuous waves, swept in from the westward; and,
+sweeping right over the barrier-reef with a roar like thunder, broke
+on the shore with a force unequalled in the memory of any islander
+now living. Thus the usually calm lagoon within the coral ring,
+and the annular lagoon on its outer edge, were alike lashed to
+tempestuous billows, dashing with awful force on either side of the
+low islet; while the water from below was actually forced up
+through the coral foundation, till the light sandy soil was so
+thoroughly saturated as to have become a mere quicksand.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>With danger alike imminent on land and sea, it was a difficult
+question which to face. The ground was apparently about to be
+wholly submerged, and the alarm was such that 118 persons,
+including one European (George Herder, agent for a large German
+mercantile house), decided to take refuge in their boats. All these,
+with the exception of one man, a native of Anaa, perished.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The others, including Mr Macgee and a few other Europeans,
+fled to the highest part of the land, which was about fifteen feet
+above the ordinary water-level. The ground is there strewn with
+large rocks and stumps of palm-trees. To these they clung all
+through the long dreary night, while the waves from both lake and
+sea met and dashed right over them in cataracts of foam.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Throughout the long hours of darkness they battled with the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>raging waters. Again and again they were dashed from the rocks
+or stumps to which they clung, and endured a moment of bewildering
+horror, while carried at the mercy of the swirling waters,
+till happily some other object presented itself at which to clutch.
+Further, they were in imminent danger from sharks, which, as they
+well knew, might attack them at any moment,—a consciousness
+which formed a horrible item in that night of dread. Mingling
+with the roar of the waters and the shrieking of the hurricane,
+came the crash of falling palms, uprooted, twisted, or snapped by
+the fury of the gale.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>When morning broke, the tempest abated; the waters receded to
+their accustomed bounds, leaving the island a complete wreck, and
+its shores strewn with the bodies of the dead.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>After a few days, a boat arrived in search of Mr Macgee,
+despatched from the island of Apataki, where he had left the
+Marion. He found her high and dry on the beach, but otherwise
+not seriously injured. Of the little May he had himself caught a
+last glimpse as a huge wave lifted her up and carried her right
+over the wharf, to disappear in the turmoil of seething waters
+beyond. Many other small craft have been wrecked. Amongst
+others the Hornet, a 42-ton schooner; the Nerine, 28-ton; and a
+great number of boats, which were washed out of the lagoon and
+carried out to sea.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The isles of Niau, Anaa, and Rangiroa, <i>i.e.</i>, long cloud, seem to
+have suffered the most severely. On the latter almost every house
+has been destroyed, one hideous detail being that the cemeteries have
+literally been washed away, and the bodies, bones, and skulls lie
+strewn over the isle, mingled with the corpses of the drowned, to
+the gratification of such hungry pigs as have survived the deluge,
+and who quickly scented out the loathsome festival. Among the
+bodies which shared this horrible fate, was recognised that of a chief,
+who had been buried a few days previously.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Nor was this the only isle where the sea disturbed the resting-places
+of the dead. Mr Boosey told me that on his returning to
+the miserable wreck of what had been his home at Anaa, he
+therein found two skulls, which the waves had sportively deposited
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>as grim ornaments for his dining-room. Anaa was the principal
+settlement in the Paumotu group. The storm did not actually
+break there till the 7th February, though for some hours previously
+the barometer had been falling steadily, marking a descent
+from 30.10 on the morning of the 6th to 29.24 on the afternoon
+of the 7th.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>This so alarmed Mr Boosey that he proceeded to move some of
+his goods to a large native house built on the highest point of the
+island, which, however, did not exceed twenty-five feet above the
+sea-level. His neighbours, like those of Noah of old, somewhat
+derided his precautions; but even he had saved comparatively
+little, when the sea came pouring in over the reef in mighty waves,
+which swept all before them, almost entirely covering the island.
+When, on the morning of the 8th, the waters receded, a mass of
+broken timbers and rubbish alone remained to mark where, but a
+few short hours previously, had stood about 150 buildings of one
+sort or another. All the boats were destroyed, and the whole land
+strewn with fallen palms, lying tossed about at every conceivable
+angle. The destruction of cocoa-palms throughout the group is
+reckoned at two millions; and as these are the chief wealth, indeed
+the principal means of subsistence, of the people, and as it takes
+about eight years for a young palm to attain maturity, you can in
+a measure realise the loss thus represented, and the time that must
+elapse ere the poor Paumotus recover from the effects of this
+terrible storm. The Ségond reports that the sea for many miles
+around the group is so encumbered with wreckage of every sort, as
+seriously to endanger navigation.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Papeete</span>, <i>February 26th</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The chief interest of daily life is watching for vessels. The
+mail from San Francisco is late, and of the long-looked-for ship
+from the Sandwich Isles nothing further has been heard. Both
+ships belong to Mrs Brander. The former—the Paloma—is called
+after her little daughter; the latter—the Maramma—bears one of
+her own names. A hundred times a day we look up to the semaphore
+to see whether the signals reveal any hint of the returning
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>wanderers, but no cheering sign appears. It is very trying for my
+kind dear hostess, who has so much at stake, and whose eldest son
+Aleck is expected to return from Honolulu in the missing cattle-ship.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Otherwise life is running on in strangely even tenor, and I begin
+to realise that in the South Seas, as in other places, delirious
+gaiety is only an occasional accident, and even music is only
+practised by fits and starts. Certainly it has been well for the
+truthfulness of my impressions of travel that I stayed here long
+enough to see a little of the <i>dessous des cartes</i>, instead of seeing
+everything only through the roseate glasses of the hopeful admiral,
+who was so sanguine that his multitudinous reforms would all
+flourish. I am glad that I have seen Tahiti in all its phases,
+especially in its quiet ordinary state, which no one travelling in a
+man-of-war, or in any other large ship, can ever see, as the kindly
+people are always glad of the smallest pretext for getting up
+festivities.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Amongst other wrong impressions, I should certainly have
+carried away an idea that <i>himène</i> singing was the normal condition
+of Tahitian life—that all the people were for ever warbling like
+birds, as naturally as they breathed, and that the very air was
+musical. I now find that this is by no means the case. Since
+the outburst of song which everywhere greeted King Ariiaue on
+his accession, all the birds have been mute. I have only heard one
+<i>himène</i>, and that was got up to order, in honour of H.M.S. Shah,
+and a very poor specimen it was.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But chiefly I rejoice that my prolonged stay here with this fine
+family of real old Tahitian chiefs (who have treated me with the
+same loving kindness they heap on one another), has not only
+shown me whatever still remains of the true Tahitian element, but
+has also enabled me to realise, in person, the existence of the
+warm-hearted unbounded hospitality which (now necessarily wellnigh
+a tale of the past, in overcrowded British isles) still flourishes
+and luxuriates beneath these balmy heavens.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>But as all things must have an end, and my visit to Tahiti has
+already extended to five months, I now only await the arrival of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span>either of the missing ships, to decide by which route to tear myself
+away from the Tahitian paradise, and all the kind, kind people in
+it, to whom it owes half its charm.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><i>March 5th.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Misfortunes never do come singly, and really it seems as if every
+vessel that has come in of late has brought tidings of some fresh
+loss. Of those for which we watched so anxiously, the first to
+arrive was the Paloma, from San Francisco. Great was the joy
+when she was sighted, great the dismay when it became known
+that she brought no mails. It appears that she had been becalmed
+on her voyage to ’Frisco, and so had arrived late. The French
+consul there, sooner than allow one day’s delay in starting the
+return mail, had chartered another vessel, the Bonanza, to bring it
+down, at a cost to the Paloma of 2000 dollars. The latter had to
+wait several days in San Francisco for cargo; and nevertheless,
+though the Bonanza is accounted a swift sailer, the Paloma reached
+Honolulu several days before her. She brought news that the
+Maramma got into so many difficulties at the Hawaiian Isles that
+Aleck Brander deemed it best to take passage by the mail-steamer
+up to San Francisco, intending to return thence in the Paloma;
+but finding that the Bonanza was chartered for an immediate start,
+he decided to come by her, and so has only just arrived, after both
+the other ships had been some days in harbour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Maramma has had quite a chapter of accidents. After
+making an excellent run to Honolulu, she went down to Kauai to
+ship cattle, when it was discovered that she had sprung a serious
+leak, and had nine feet of water in her hold. Happily she was so
+close inshore that she landed all her cargo without difficulty. A
+Government steamer was sent down to tow her back to Honolulu,
+at a cost of 3000 dollars. Another 1000 dollars were there expended
+on repairs, and to this must be added 2000 more of dead
+loss on the voyage,—and all this was due to one rat-hole!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now she is undergoing further repairs here, and will very likely
+be despatched to Hawaii in a very few days, in which case she will
+probably go direct to Kauai, the most beautiful, and least visited,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>of all the Sandwich Isles. It is a very tempting possibility, yet
+the element of doubt as to whether she really will go at all, exists
+so clearly, that it seems wiser for me to take passage in the Paloma
+to San Francisco, and thence return to Honolulu by mail-steamer.
+It is a terribly long round; for whereas Honolulu is 2000 miles
+from here, San Francisco is at least 4000, as the crow flies, and as
+ships go, the voyage is often one of 5000 miles, or even more—a
+long voyage to undertake in a brigantine of 230 tons!</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Aleck Brander has been giving us most interesting accounts of
+his reception in Honolulu by all the royalties and high chiefs of
+Hawaii. As I have before mentioned, they all count blood-relationship
+with the high chiefs of Tahiti; and though they rarely meet,
+a visit from one to the other is a great event. So Aleck’s first
+visit was celebrated by a true native welcome, and he had the luck
+of seeing such traces of old Hawaiian custom as have not yet quite
+died out. But it sounds odd to hear of presentations of food, and
+of crouching servants, quite <i><span lang="fr">à la</span></i> Fiji, combined with very smart
+American-Parisian dresses, very much <i>décolletée</i>. At least the
+photographs, of which Aleck has brought a large supply, represent
+the great ladies of Hawaii in very low-necked and short-sleeved
+dresses of gorgeous material. Certainly the simple robes of Tahiti
+are infinitely preferable.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>On Board the Paloma</span>,</div>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, 9th March</i>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>The die is cast, the sad partings over, and I have bidden a long
+farewell to the kindest and most affectionate community I have yet
+discovered in all my wanderings. I took leave of them all yesterday
+morning, for the Paloma had gone to Hitiaa, on the other side
+of the island, there to load with oranges.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>My only fellow-passengers are a very kind couple, Mr and Mrs
+Boyd, who are accompanied by a pretty fair-haired child. We
+came together from Papeete, in a comfortable coach with canvas
+cover, and had a most lovely sixty miles’ drive along the shore,
+with the distant hills standing out clearer and more beautiful than
+I had ever yet seen them, and the foliage seeming richer than ever,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>as I looked on it all with the sorrowful feeling that it was for the
+last time.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Several bridges had been washed away during a recent storm—the
+same which wrought such devastation in the Paumotus—so we
+had to cross the rivers at the mouth, by driving quite into the sea.
+It was rather nervous work, as the horses did not like it at all.
+But otherwise, the beautiful grass roads were in excellent condition,
+and we had four changes of very good horses, so the drive was
+most delightful.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now the beautiful isle lies far behind us, fading into the blue
+distance, and we are fairly started on our far journey.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Small as is our ship, she is in every respect satisfactory, and as
+clean and cosy as a gentleman’s yacht. I never saw so small a
+vessel carry so much sail,—truly our Paloma deserves her name,
+for she is now flying before the breeze like a swift white-winged
+carrier-pigeon, bearing many a letter.<a id='r71'></a><a href='#f71' class='c017'><sup>[71]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>She also carries 270,000 oranges—a fragrant cargo. They are
+gathered unripe, to be ready for the market on our arrival. Probably,
+if we make a slow voyage, we shall seriously diminish their
+numbers! On their account, every part of the ship is kept as cool
+and airy as possible.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our cabins are excellent. Mine is large and comfortable, and
+has two windows opening on to the deck, so that they need never
+be shut unless weather is very bad. The table is excellent, the
+service quiet and attentive. Our Danish captain is an exceedingly
+good fellow, as is also his wife, who travels with him.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The cook and steward, and the two mates, are Swedes and
+Germans. Seven Rarotongans compose the crew: all are very
+quiet and silent. So is little Edith, with her cat and kitten. The
+canary is the only noisy person on board, and sings joyously.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>We are starting as it were on a long yachting cruise in summer
+seas.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+  <div class='linegroup'>
+    <div class='group'>
+      <div class='line in4'><i>Saturday, April 20th</i>,</div>
+      <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Still on Board the Paloma</span>.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c008'>Our summer cruise has lasted six weeks; we have made about
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>the longest voyage on record. We have lain becalmed for days,
+which both the captain and his wife attribute to my perversity in
+writing letters on board! They say it <i>always</i> happens when passengers
+write, and that it ought to be an irrevocable law that all
+ink-bottles are emptied when their owners embark. Unaccountable
+currents have drifted us far out of our course, and the irregular
+behaviour of the trade-wind has driven us right to the west of the
+Sandwich Isles, and yet had not the kindness to blow us close to
+Honolulu, where I might have met some vessel running in and
+transhipped,—Captain Nissen would not have dared to land me
+himself, as he would thereby have broken his mail contract. But
+we passed close to Kauai, which, seen from the sea, is a very uninteresting-looking
+island; and then we sailed so close to Niihau
+that we could distinguish every house. It did seem a pity that
+the aggravating contract should prevent my landing at once, instead
+of my having to go on all the way to San Francisco, just to return
+in a steamer! We have actually made a voyage of 6000 miles
+since we left Papeete! For my own part, I really have not disliked
+it. We have had lovely weather; everything has gone on
+most pleasantly; and what with reading, working, and painting,
+the days have been well filled.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Yesterday was Good Friday, which in Germany and Denmark
+is called “the quiet day,”<a id='r72'></a><a href='#f72' class='c017'><sup>[72]</sup></a> and it was observed by the Danes and
+Germans, and all the crew, by a cessation from all manner of work
+not positively necessary. The Rarotongans are all Christians, and
+have their own books, which they read quietly on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now we are off the coast of California. We are nearing the
+Golden Gates, and hope to find ourselves safe in harbour, before
+the dawn on Easter morning.</p>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c005'>
+    <div><span class='small'>THE END.</span></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c005'>
+    <div><span class='xsmall'>PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.</span></div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<div id='end'  class='figcenter id001'>
+<a href='images/p3670_map_hr.jpg'><img src='images/p3670_map.jpg' alt='A LADY’S CRUISE IN A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR' class='ig001'></a>
+</div>
+
+<hr class='c024'>
+<div class='footnote' id='f1'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r1'>1</a>. Since the above was written, Mr Watkin has been appointed Chairman (or as
+we might say, Wesleyan Bishop) of Tongatabu.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Mr Baker has ceased to work in connection with the mission, and now acts as
+Prime Minister to King George.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f2'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r2'>2</a>. For numerous instances of this, see ‘From the Hebrides to the Himalayas’
+(C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. i. pp. 203–210.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f3'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r3'>3</a>. I am happy to say that the king’s good sense carried the day, and enabled the
+wishes of the people to find an independent voice. In July 1879, King George
+formally opened a Tongan Parliament, at which, for the first time, representatives
+of the people were present, under the new constitution, to discuss all questions
+relating to their own wellbeing. Ere the close of the session, in the middle of
+September, the law prohibiting the manufacture and wearing of native cloth, and
+rendering certain articles of clothing compulsory, was abolished. Men and women
+are now permitted to wear any clothes they please, in doors or out, provided, of
+course, that they are decently clad according to South Sea interpretation of the
+word. The only exception to this happy rule of liberty is the interior of the
+Wesleyan Church at Nukualofa, where it is still necessary for men to appear in
+full European dress—coat, trousers, shoes, &#38;c.—and for women to wear bonnets
+and dresses! Those who cannot, or will not, comply with this regulation, must
+stay outside the sanctuary.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The prohibition against women smoking was also modified. Doubtless the
+revenue will suffer from the diminution of lines, but that can scarcely be a matter
+of much regret. Various other wise measures were passed, showing that the Tongans
+have awakened to understand the folly of attempting to introduce the manners
+and customs of foreign countries, without reference to the requirements and necessities
+of their own people. Consequently several excellent Tongan customs relative
+to tenure of lands, tribes, and status of the people, are now legalised; and the
+representatives have shown their strong and sensible desire to retain all that was
+good in their national code of laws, but which had been put away, together with
+things evil, at the suggestion of resident foreigners.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>That the latter were so effectually prevented from unduly influencing the young
+Parliament, was doubtless due to the presence of H.B.M. Deputy-Commissioner
+for Tonga, A. P. Maudslay, and of Mr Wilkinson, both of whom have been engaged
+in the establishment of the new Government in Fiji, and well know the wisdom
+of ruling a semi-civilised race by retaining, so far as is possible, their own ancient
+feudal customs.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f4'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r4'>4</a>. A great Tongan chief, settled in Fiji, who, up to the time of annexation,
+contested with Thakombau for the supremacy. I have just received news of his
+death.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f5'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r5'>5</a>. Since my return to England, I have heard the statement corroborated.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f6'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r6'>6</a>. <i>Vide</i> ‘At Home in Fiji’ (C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. ii.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f7'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r7'>7</a>. The struggle lasted for some time. Finally, Malietoa again got the upper
+hand, and was acknowledged king by the foreign Powers, General Bartlett, U.S.,
+being his prime minister. In August 1879, the Hon. Sir Arthur Hamilton Gordon,
+Commissioner for the Western Pacific, arrived at Apia, and concluded a treaty
+with the king and Government of Samoa, declaring perpetual peace and friendship
+between the people of their respective isles. The Samoans ceded to Britain the
+right to establish a naval station and coaling depot, as had previously been granted
+by treaty both to Germany and America. On the 8th November 1880 King Malietoa
+died. He was barely forty years of age, and a man greatly loved by all his
+own people. Probably but for the disturbing presence of the meddling whites,
+he might still be reigning over a happy and prosperous people. As it is, the country
+is once more in a state of anarchy; and the good bishop, whose heart yearned
+for the peace and prosperity of the people, has himself passed away to the world
+where all is peace.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f8'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r8'>8</a>. <i>Didunculus strigirostris.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f9'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r9'>9</a>. Or more correctly, in old Celtic parlance, <i>tuaphol</i>—that is to say, a turn contrary
+to the course of the sun, keeping the left hand towards the centre. It was
+only used when invoking a curse, as opposed to the turn <i>deisul</i>, which invoked a
+blessing on the object round which the turn was made. The superstition is common
+to all lands in whose early mythology sun-worship held a place. See ‘From
+the Hebrides to the Himalayas,’ vol. i. p. 203.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f10'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r10'>10</a>. The <i>sulu</i> of the Friendly and Fijian Isles, the <i>pareo</i> of Tahiti, the <i>sarong</i> of
+the Malays, or the <i>comboy</i> of the Singalese, is simply a fathom of cloth wrapped
+round the lower limbs, and reaching to the knee or the ankle, according to the
+width of the material.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f11'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r11'>11</a>. Capital of Fiji.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f12'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r12'>12</a>. Shortly after the above was written, the Pacific was electrified by the sudden
+collapse of this huge mercantile house, which failed for the modest sum of one
+million sterling.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f13'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r13'>13</a>. <i>Vide</i> New Zealand Blue-Book, 1874—evidence of Mr Sterndale, late <i>employé</i>
+of Mr Godeffroy.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f14'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r14'>14</a>. Sea-urchins.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f15'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r15'>15</a>. <i>Fa</i> “in the manner of”—</p>
+
+<table class='table2'>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c025'><i>Vaka-Viti</i>,</td>
+    <td class='c026'>Fiji-wise.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c025'><i>Faka-Tonga</i>,</td>
+    <td class='c026'>Tonga-wise.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class='c025'><i>Fa-Samoa</i>,</td>
+    <td class='c026'>Samoa-wise.</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f16'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r16'>16</a>. Great love to you.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f17'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r17'>17</a>. Apparently women are held in higher estimation by the Samoans than by
+some folk in the British Isles. I have just heard of a Highlander driving a very
+fierce bull along a highroad. To him, quoth a friend, “That is a dangerous-looking
+brute!” “Ou na!” replies the owner; “he is just as ceevil as a sheep.
+He wadna hurt onybody, unless, maybe, weemen and bairns and suchlike!”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f18'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r18'>18</a>. The Rev. W. Wyatt Gill has recorded a multitude of most interesting examples
+of such parables from nature. Moreover, happily for all lovers of such
+lore, he has, during his mission career in the Hervey Isles, found time to preserve
+many delightful “Myths and Songs from the South Pacific.” It is much to be
+wished that the same could be done for other groups.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f19'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r19'>19</a>. <i>Crinum asiaticum.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f20'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r20'>20</a>. Nineteen Years in Polynesia. By the Rev. George Turner, London Missionary
+Society.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f21'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r21'>21</a>. For a few examples, to which many more might be added, see ‘From the
+Hebrides to the Himalayas,’ vol. i. pp. 16, 74, 130–134.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f22'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r22'>22</a>. <i>Vide</i> ‘At Home in Fiji,’ by C. F. Gordon Cumming.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f23'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r23'>23</a>. <i>Aitutaki</i>, “led by God.”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f24'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r24'>24</a>. Notably one dug out of the peat-moss at Ballachulish, now in the Antiquarian
+Museum in Edinburgh; and those in the Museum at Hull; also those in the Berlin
+Museum. All these have the eyes formed of quartz pebbles, instead of the bits of
+pearly shell or of obsidian used in the manufacture of idols in the Pacific.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The stone gods also had their counterparts in our own isles. When Dr Turner
+visited the Union or Tokelau Isles in 1850, he found that the great god, Tui
+Tokelau, was supposed to be embodied in a rude stone, which was carefully
+wrapped up in fine mats, and never seen by any human eyes save those of the
+king, who is also the high priest. Even he might only look upon the sacred stone
+once a year, when the old mats were removed and new ones supplied. Of course
+constant exposure in all weather, day and night, soon decayed the mats; but the
+worshippers continually offered new ones, <i>especially in cases of sickness</i>, and these
+were wrapped round the idol, so that, ere the day came round for its disrobing, it
+attained a prodigious size. The old mats were considered so sacred that none
+might touch them; so they were laid in a place apart, and there left to rot. The
+month of May was especially devoted to the worship of this god, and the people
+assembled from all the Tokelau isles to hold a great feast in its honour, and to
+pray for prosperity and health, and especially <i>for an abundant supply of fish</i> and
+cocoa-nuts.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Now turn from the Pacific to the North Atlantic, and read a statement by the
+Earl of Roden, in his ‘Progress of the Reformation in Ireland.’ He says:—</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“In the south island—<i>i.e.</i>, Inniskea, off the coast of Mayo—in the house of a
+man named Monigan, a stone idol, called in the Irish <i>Neevougi</i>, has been, from
+time immemorial, religiously preserved and worshipped. This god resembles in
+appearance a thick roll of home-spun flannel, which arises from the custom of
+dedicating a dress of that material to it whenever its aid is sought; this is sewn
+on by an old woman, its priestess, whose peculiar care it is. Of the early history
+of this idol no authentic information can be procured, but its power is believed to
+be immense. <i>They pray to it in time of sickness</i>; it is invoked <i>when a storm is
+desired to dash some hapless ship upon their coast</i>; and again, the exercise of its
+power is solicited in calming the angry waves <i>to admit of fishing</i> or visiting the
+mainland.”</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It scarcely seems possible, does it, to realise that our own ancestors were as
+gross idolaters as any South Sea Islanders? Yet in the majority of these isles the
+present generation have never seen an idol of any sort; and should they ever visit
+our museums, they would gaze on the gods of their own fathers as wonderingly as
+we do on those of the early Britons.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f25'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r25'>25</a>. Alas! the fate of the majority has already been sealed. In the spring of
+1881, the following brief paragraph announced that the lives of these brave
+pioneers had already been sacrificed:—</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“<span class='sc'>Massacre of Missionaries.</span>—Despatches received in Liverpool announce the
+massacre in New Guinea of a number of missionaries belonging to the London
+Missionary Society. The news was conveyed to Melbourne in a telegram from the
+Rev. Mr Beswick, who himself narrowly escaped with his life. On the 7th of
+March the missionaries were attacked by the natives at Kato, in the district of
+Port Moresby, Hulu, and four of them, with two of their wives, four children, and
+two servants, were killed. The natives also attempted to kill four native boys who
+were with the missionary party, but they saved themselves by swimming. Not the
+slightest provocation was given; but it is stated in the despatch that the perpetrators
+of other previous massacres on the coast have not been punished, and this
+is considered to be the main cause of the outbreak. The total number of persons
+killed was twelve, but the list would have been much greater had not the remainder
+of the party made their immediate escape. For fear the natives would make a
+further attack upon the missionaries in the outlying districts, they were all removed
+from their stations to Port Moresby.”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f26'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r26'>26</a>. Foreign.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f27'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r27'>27</a>. The thought of this poor savage, week by week imperilling his life by crossing
+that stormy sea in his frail canoe, has often come vividly to my mind as an illustration
+of the words in Deut. xxx. 11–14: “This commandment which I command
+thee this day, it is not hidden from thee, neither is it far off. It is not&#160;... beyond
+the sea, that thou shouldest say, Who shall go over the sea for us, and bring
+it unto us, that we may hear it, and do it? But the word is very nigh unto thee,
+in thy mouth, and in thy heart, that thou mayest do it.”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f28'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r28'>28</a>. Christianity.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f29'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r29'>29</a>. See note on <i>Etu</i> worship at the end of this letter.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f30'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r30'>30</a>. See an interesting article on the origin of clan names in Britain, ‘Cornhill
+Magazine,’ September 1881—“Old English Clans.”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f31'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r31'>31</a>. It is hard to have to think of that tender and loving heart as of a mere material
+relic. Yet, as the heart of the Bruce, enshrined in its golden casket, was carried
+by his true knight to that Holy Land which his feet might never tread, so has the
+heart of this saintly prelate—the first Bishop of Samoa—been borne by his faithful
+followers, to find its resting-place in the church where for so many years he pleaded
+for, and with, his people.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>It was brought from France by Père Lamaze, now consecrated Bishop of the
+Isles. The heart is enclosed in a glass urn, with an outer case of gold, ornamented
+with precious stones, and supported by four angels. On the lid of this
+reliquary is a representation of a bishop appearing before the judgment-seat of our
+Lord.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On reaching Samoa, the casket was deposited at Vaea, while preparations for its
+reception were made at Apia. On the 24th May 1881, about six hundred Catholics
+assembled at sunrise at the church at Vaea, to pay a last tribute of respect and
+devotion to their loved bishop; then forming in solemn procession, they moved
+towards Apia. The children from the convent school at Savalalo walked first, followed
+by their teachers; next the Catholics of Apia and the surrounding districts.
+These were followed by the clergy, four of whom acted as pall-bearers, while four
+others carried the heart. Last of all came the Catholic chiefs, the catechists of
+Vaea College, and the natives residing at the mission-house at Apia.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>On reaching the church, a sermon was preached by Bishop Lamaze, and the heart
+was then deposited in a niche in the wall, there to remain enshrined, as a perpetual
+memorial to the people of Samoa of the earnest and noble life that was spent in
+striving to exemplify the holiness he preached.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f32'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r32'>32</a>. The following paragraph is from a recent Hawaiian Gazette, showing the course
+of events in Samoa:—</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“We learn, through the courtesy of Lieutenant Abbot of the Lackawanna, some
+interesting particulars in relation to the political condition of the Samoan archipelago.
+The chief Malietoa, whose name is identified with the sovereignty of
+Samoa, is dead, and his nephew and namesake has succeeded to his political
+authority and state; but a rival chief, Kepua Tomisasu, has been contesting the
+succession, and previous to the arrival of the Lackawanna there had been a series of
+desultory semi-barbarous war campaigns—not resulting in any decisive action or
+notable slaughter of men, but causing widespread ruin, robbery, and unrest. The
+American commander Gillis now presented his good offices in the way of reconciliation,
+and to establish between rival chiefs and peoples of the same land a more
+harmonious and patriotic spirit. And we are happy to say that, after many baffling
+discussions, a political unity and harmony on Samoa have been effected—Malietoa
+II. being proclaimed King of Samoa, and his rival, Kepua, the Premier of Samoa,
+with an authority on public questions somewhat like our former Kuhina Nui.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“The Samoan warriors have all dispersed and returned to peaceful pursuits.
+The terms of peace were drawn up and signed on board the Lackawanna in the
+harbour of Apia, and a royal salute of 21 guns was fired from the vessel in honour
+of the event.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“We are glad to recognise that in this instance the commander of an American
+man-of-war intervenes solely as a peacemaker, and to promote the best welfare of a
+Polynesian people.”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f33'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r33'>33</a>. Colonial abbreviation for San Francisco.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f34'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r34'>34</a>. Capital of Fiji.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f35'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r35'>35</a>. An explanation which resulted in the complete exoneration of Captain Aube,
+and his appointment to the command of La Savoie,—a finer vessel than that from
+which he had been so summarily dismissed.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f36'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r36'>36</a>. The good bishop had the satisfaction of reaching <i>la belle France</i>, and there
+effectually pleading the cause of his friend, ere he laid down the burden of life,
+which he had borne with so much anxious care for the weal of his people. He
+died very shortly after his return to Europe.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f37'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r37'>37</a>. King Pomare II. was the first person who was publicly baptised in Tahiti.
+The service took place on 16th July 1819.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f38'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r38'>38</a>. <i>Vahine</i>, a woman.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f39'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r39'>39</a>. And in this year of 1882 still continue to crop up, greatly to the benefit of the
+lawyers, who find in the affairs of the Estate Brander, a harvest far too remunerative
+to be lightly abandoned.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f40'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r40'>40</a>. Soon after my return to England, I heard that this happy home had been invaded
+by ophthalmia of a virulent type, necessitating an immediate return to
+France, and long and anxious care; but nevertheless resulting in the partial blindness
+for life of two of those merry boys. Even the Tahitian paradise has its
+thorns.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f41'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r41'>41</a>. The late Sir Archibald Dunbar of Northfield, in the county of Elgin, married,
+firstly, my father’s sister, Miss Gordon Cumming of Altyre and Gordonstown;
+and secondly, Miss Brander, heiress of Pitgaveny, whom, consequently, we have
+known all our lives, and loved much.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f42'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r42'>42</a>. Pandanus.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f43'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r43'>43</a>. My soul is defiled with sin.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f44'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r44'>44</a>. <i>Musa uranascopus.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f45'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r45'>45</a>. <i>Acanthaster solaris.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f46'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r46'>46</a>. <i>Acrocladia mamillata.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f47'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r47'>47</a>. <i>Conus textilis.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f48'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r48'>48</a>. Let not the nations of the West sneer at these superstitions of the East. Faith
+in the efficacy of the king’s touch as a cure for scrofula was implicit both in France
+and England for many a long year. So early as <span class='fss'>A.D.</span> 481 it was practised by Clovis.
+And it is recorded that on Easter Day, 1686, Louis XIV. touched 1600 persons,
+saying to each, “<span lang="fr">Le roy te touche, Dieu te guérisse!</span>” This singular divine right
+was first claimed in England by Edward the Confessor in 1058, and his successors
+carried it on. Charles I. did, on St John’s Day, 1633, visit Holyrood Chapel,
+where “he heallit 100 persons, young and old, of the cruelles or king’s evil.”
+Charles II. actually touched 92,107 such patients—being an average of 12 per diem
+for twenty years. His exchequer must have suffered by this kingly privilege, as he
+presented a broad gold piece to each sufferer. The touch of Queen Elizabeth was
+declared “a sure relief when all other methods have failed.” Henry VIII., not
+content with miraculously curing all scrofula patients, also healed those afflicted
+with cruel cramps. Dr Johnson speaks of his earliest recollections of Queen Anne,
+into whose awful presence he had been ushered in his infancy, that by her royal
+touch she might cure him of his sore disease! The office appointed by the Church
+to be said on these occasions was actually retained in the English liturgy till 1719,
+when it was omitted by command of George I. But so late as 1745 many of the
+Jacobite party came secretly to Charles Edward, to crave his healing touch. See
+‘From the Hebrides to the Himalayas’ (C. F. Gordon Cumming), vol. i. p. 264.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f49'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r49'>49</a>. <i>Dracæna terminalis.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f50'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r50'>50</a>. <i>Asplenium nidus.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f51'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r51'>51</a>. Which proved to be the exact state of the case.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f52'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r52'>52</a>. All of which I found to be strictly true. Undoubtedly, the ideal Pacific Isles
+lie south of the equator.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f53'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r53'>53</a>. We can scarcely describe this proceeding as the <i>thin</i> end of the wedge, but it
+was obvious from the beginning that the assumption of the Protectorate was merely
+a cloak for forcibly taking possession of these gems of the Pacific. <i>The cloak was
+finally thrown aside in June 1880, when King Pomare V. was persuaded by the
+commandant to cede the nominal sovereignty of the isles to those who had so long
+held its reality</i>, and to accept a life-pension of 12,000 dollars a year, which he
+might enjoy in peace in his own fashion, and so escape from the continual tutoring,
+which made his kingly rank a wearisome burden, devoid of all honour.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'><i>The annexation of Tahiti was formally proclaimed in Papeete on 24th March
+1881</i>, and was made the occasion of a brilliant festival, such as the light-hearted
+crowds are ever ready to welcome. Great were the official rejoicings. From every
+ship in the harbour, and every corner of the town, floated the tricolour, which
+likewise adorned the raven tresses of the women and the button-holes of the men.
+Great was the noise of big guns, and the amount of powder expended on salutes.
+An imposing column of all branches of the service—sailors and marines, marine
+artillery, with their guns, infantry, and gendarmes—marched round the town,
+headed by the band: “<span lang="fr">A Tahiti, comme en France, on aime à voir passer nos
+soldats</span>,” says the ‘<span lang="fr">Messager de Tahiti</span>.’ So the lovely town was <i>en fête</i>. Every
+<i>himène</i> chorus had arrived from every corner of the isles, making the whole air
+musical. Thousands of natives, all in their brightest, freshest dresses, kept up incessant
+movement in the clear sunlight or cool shade. Everywhere games and
+feasting were the order of the day. In the governor’s beautiful gardens, a brilliant
+banquet for upwards of a hundred persons was served in a great tent, all as graceful
+as the combined taste of France and Tahiti could make it. Then followed a
+lovely garden festival, just such as that described by “The Earl and the Doctor,”
+a gay ball for the leading inhabitants, while “the people” danced no less joyously
+on the green, outside the sacred precincts. Games, music, dancing, and feasting,
+with a night of brilliant illuminations and fireworks,—all these, combined with
+lovely surroundings and perfect weather, made the great official festival of Tahiti a
+day which the French naval officers very naturally consider one to be remembered
+for ever, but which, perchance, may have caused some of the older inhabitants an
+angry and bitter pang, for the independence of their country thus lost for ever.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f54'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r54'>54</a>. Immediately alter the declaration of the annexation of the Society Isles, comes
+the news that <i>the French have also annexed the Gambier Isles</i>, which lie to the
+south-west, in the direction of Pitcairn’s Isle. <i>Our Gallic friends have thus secured
+a very admirable semicircle of the four finest groups in the Eastern Pacific.</i> Here
+they can now consolidate their strength, and await the influx of commerce which
+must of necessity pass through this <i>cordon</i>, <i>when M. Lesseps shall have opened the
+Panama Canal for the traffic of the world</i>.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Here French ships will touch on their way to and from the Loyalty Isles and
+Cochin-China; while ships of all nations, plying between Europe and Australasia,
+will necessarily pass the same way, and contribute their quota to the wealth of the
+French Pacific.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The Gambier Islands have been gradually prepared for their adoption by France,
+the Catholic Mission having there ruled supreme for some twenty years.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>Till quite recently, the Bible has been a prohibited book, but now, of the few
+remaining natives, a large proportion are learning to read Tahitian, in order to be
+able to study the Scriptures for themselves; and the Protestant Mission in Tahiti
+has responded to this desire, by sending copies of the New Testament for gratuitous
+distribution in the group. From one cause or another, however, a very small
+number of natives now exist, the islands having become wellnigh depopulated.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f55'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r55'>55</a>. Although the French have had possession of the group for so many years, the
+natives of some of the islands have never been really in subjection to the authorities
+until last year, when Admiral Bergasse du Petit Thouars visited the group, and
+with the aid of volunteers, natives of Tahiti, and of the friendly isles of Marquesas,
+succeeded in disarming and bringing into subjection the hostile tribes, and that
+without firing a shot.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>The admiral himself headed the troops across the mountains from village to
+village, arriving one night on the coast about midnight, having been conducted by
+natives who knew the passes: these passes were lighted up by the electric light
+from the frigate, which was anchored in the bay. The French took 600 muskets
+from the natives of the two islands, Hiva-oa and Fatuhiva. They say that the
+natives are really not a bad sort of people, but their curse, like that of all the
+islands, is “<i>drink</i>.” This, and the conduct of unprincipled foreigners, has been
+the real cause of all the trouble.</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>I affix a note which I copy from the ‘<span lang="fr">Messager de Tahiti</span>’ for 30th of July 1880,
+which is all that has appeared in the paper on the subject:—</p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“<span lang="fr">Le Contre-Amiral commandant en chef le corps expéditionnaire aux Marquises,
+témoigne aux volontaires Tahitiens, aux volontaires Marquisiens, aux militaires de
+toutes armes, ainsi qu’aux marins qui ont pris part à l’expédition des Marquises,
+toute sa satisfaction.</span></p>
+
+<p class='c008'>“<span lang="fr">Grâce à leur esprit militaire, à leur dévouement et à leur discipline, l’île de
+Hiva-oa et celle de Fatuhiva ont été rapidement soumises et désarmés, et la paix
+régne partout aux Marquises.</span>”</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f56'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r56'>56</a>. Sun-dried nut, exported for the manufacture of oil.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f57'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r57'>57</a>. <i>Holothuroides.</i> Chinese name, <i>Tripang</i>.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f58'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r58'>58</a>. The question was decided in her favour. She has been refitted and renamed
+and now sails the Pacific as the Annie Johnson.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f59'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r59'>59</a>. I do not by this mean to suggest any trace of a common origin, merely founded
+on ancestor-worship, which prevailed in almost all countries, and which in the
+Pacific is to this day practised by the Papuan races. The islanders of the Torres
+Straits, in common with those of the Line islands, worship the skulls of their
+ancestors, and treasure them in their huts as reverently as did the Tahitians in
+heathen days.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f60'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r60'>60</a>. For a trace of this custom, as practised in the Marquesas, see p. 257.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f61'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r61'>61</a>. Whence has developed the Torii.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f62'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r62'>62</a>. This is emphatically true of Fijian. See ‘At Home in Fiji,’ vol. i. p. 136.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f63'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r63'>63</a>. <i>Calophyllum inophyllum.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f64'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r64'>64</a>. <i>Entada scandens.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f65'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r65'>65</a>. If any are disposed to doubt this statement, they have only to refer to the
+circumstantial and thoroughly authenticated accounts published by the various
+missionary societies; those, for instance, of the American Board, which again and
+again, in the early days of the mission to the Sandwich Isles, have occasion to
+refer to the outrages committed by British and American seamen, who came in
+armed bands to attack the mission stations, in their rage at the influence acquired
+by the missionaries, and the consequent change in the morals of the people. Again
+and again life and property were threatened, and the mission premises were only
+saved from destruction by the timely arrival of determined chiefs and their retainers.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f66'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r66'>66</a>. The gods also were supposed to feed on the essence of the food offered to them.
+Every evening the priest in the principal temple of Mangaia cooked an ovenful of
+<i>taro</i> for their use, and threw one root at a time into the scrub, dedicating each to
+one of the gods. When the thirteen principal deities had thus been recognised the
+priest threw one more, as an offering to all the lesser gods, of whose names and
+attributes he was ignorant. This ceremony exactly answers to one which I have
+seen practised at the Buddhist monasteries in China, where, ere the monks taste
+their own food, a small portion is set aside on a pillar, as an offering to any saintly
+or divine beings whom they have neglected in their temple-worship.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f67'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r67'>67</a>. <i>Erythrina corallodendrum.</i></p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f68'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r68'>68</a>. The next I saw were at the British Legation in Pekin, where they were objects
+of intense interest, as being probably the first ever grown in the Celestial Empire.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f69'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r69'>69</a>. The Malay apple, familiar to us in Fiji as the <i>kaveeka</i>.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f70'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r70'>70</a>. Just before leaving Tahiti, I bestowed equal care on three cases containing
+6000 stones, which were carried by sailing-ship to New Zealand and thence to
+Fiji. Their arrival there was anxiously expected, and all arrangements made for
+their speedy distribution throughout the group. Alas! alas! when, after long
+delays, the cases were opened, they were found to contain a mass of decay; poor
+dead plants, which had sprouted during the voyage, and straightway died. When
+this sad news reached me, I bethought me sorrowfully of the advice given me by
+Monseigneur Janssen—namely, that as plants require light and air to enable them
+to sprout, I would do well to compel them to sleep by packing them in soot, and
+then having the case carefully caulked. The mess involved in such work was so
+horrible, that I shrank from undertaking it, but I bequeath the good advice to my
+successors in the attempt.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f71'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r71'>71</a>. Paloma—a dove.</p>
+</div>
+<div class='footnote' id='f72'>
+<p class='c008'><a href='#r72'>72</a>. <span lang="de">Der stille Tag.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='pbb'>
+ <hr class='pb c002'>
+</div>
+<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'>
+
+<div class='chapter ph2'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+    <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+ <ul class='ul_1 c005'>
+    <li>Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+
+    </li>
+    <li>Used numbers for footnotes, placing them all at the end of the last chapter.
+    </li>
+  </ul>
+
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77356 ***</div>
+  </body>
+  <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57e (with regex) on 2025-10-21 14:15:34 GMT -->
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #77356
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