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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 ***
+
+
+
+
+
+A SAILOR’S LIFE
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MacMillan and Co. Printer’s Mark.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: “_Sibuko had had his Quietus._”]
+
+
+
+
+ A SAILOR’S LIFE
+ UNDER
+ FOUR SOVEREIGNS
+
+ BY
+ ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET
+ THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL
+ G.C.B., D.C.L.
+
+ VOL. III
+
+ London
+ MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED
+ NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
+
+ 1899
+
+ _All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER LXVI                                                PAGE
+ Fatshan Creek                                                  1
+
+ CHAPTER LXVII
+ Visit Sarawak                                                  8
+
+ CHAPTER LXVIII
+ Sarawak--India--England                                       11
+
+ CHAPTER LXIX
+ England                                                       19
+
+ CHAPTER LXX
+ England--Groom-in-Waiting                                     32
+
+ CHAPTER LXXI
+ In Waiting                                                    36
+
+ CHAPTER LXXII
+ The Cape Command                                              39
+
+ CHAPTER LXXIII
+ The Cape Command--Flag in _Brisk_                             45
+
+ CHAPTER LXXIV
+ East Coast Sport                                              50
+
+ CHAPTER LXXV
+ Zanzibar--Shooting Hippopotami                                57
+
+ CHAPTER LXXVI
+ Zanzibar                                                      62
+
+ CHAPTER LXXVII
+ _Forte_--Flag Re-hoisted                                      65
+
+ CHAPTER LXXVIII
+ The Cape Command                                              68
+
+ CHAPTER LXXIX
+ Return to England                                             75
+
+ CHAPTER LXXX
+ Shore Time                                                    80
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXI
+ Country House Visits                                          92
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXII
+ A Shore Journal                                              104
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXIII
+ Home Life                                                    109
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXIV
+ The Command in China                                         113
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXV
+ Bound for China                                              117
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXVI
+ The China Command                                            129
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXVII
+ North China Ports                                            139
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXVIII
+ Daibootz                                                     153
+
+ CHAPTER LXXXIX
+ The China Command                                            164
+
+ CHAPTER XC
+ The Outlook for the New Year                                 173
+
+ CHAPTER XCI
+ Hari-Kari                                                    183
+
+ CHAPTER XCII
+ The China Command                                            190
+
+ CHAPTER XCIII
+ Flag in _Salamis_                                            206
+
+ CHAPTER XCIV
+ The China Command                                            218
+
+ CHAPTER XCV
+ The Command in China                                         227
+
+ CHAPTER XCVI
+ The Northern Ports                                           237
+
+ CHAPTER XCVII
+ Memories of Gordon                                           245
+
+ CHAPTER XCVIII
+ Yang-tse-kiang Trip                                          256
+
+ CHAPTER XCIX
+ Chefoo to Japan                                              263
+
+ CHAPTER C
+ The China Command                                            272
+
+ CHAPTER CI
+ The China Command                                            278
+
+ CHAPTER CII
+ Close of China Command                                       285
+
+ CHAPTER CIII
+ Peking                                                       298
+
+ CHAPTER CIV
+ Homeward Bound                                               311
+
+ CHAPTER CV
+ Last Visit to the Straits                                    316
+
+ CHAPTER CVI
+ Some Farewell Notes                                          321
+
+ INDEX                                                        337
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+              SUBJECT                       ARTIST                  PAGE
+
+ “Sibuko had had his Quietus”          _E. Caldwell_        Frontispiece
+
+ Part of my Galley’s Crew              _Nina Daly_                     3
+
+ Map--Northern China, with Coast
+     of Siberia                                                        5
+
+ A Malay Kampong                       _Photo by Dr. Johnstone_       11
+
+ In Bornean Jungle                       ”     ”                      12
+
+ Whampoa                               _Photograph_                   13
+
+ Suspicious Junks                      _Sir Oswald Brierly_           21
+
+ _Forte_ at Rio                          ”     ”                      43
+
+ My Middle Watch                       _J. W. Houghton_               53
+
+ A Right and Left Shot                 _E. Caldwell_                  59
+
+ Commodore Oliver Jones                _Nina Daly_                   129
+
+ Map--Eastern Archipelago                                            142
+
+ Sir Rutherford Alcock                 _Photograph_                  143
+
+ Sir Harry Parkes                            ”                       148
+
+ Crossing a River in Japan             _Commodore Oliver Jones_      161
+
+ Lord Charles Scott                    _Nina Daly_                   170
+
+ Map--Northern China, with Coast
+     of Siberia                                                      193
+
+ May and Webb                          _Photograph_                  248
+
+ Mrs. Alt                                    ”                       274
+
+ The Prince who made the Omelette            ”                       305
+
+ “The Little Admiral”                  _Hong Kong_ “Punch”           314
+
+ Jack Rodyk                            _Photograph_                  319
+
+ Last of the _Rodney_, 1884                  ”                       323
+
+ Duke of Buccleuch                           ”                       327
+
+ Admiral of the Fleet, The Hon. Sir    _Sketched at The Albany_
+     Henry Keppel, G.C.B., D.C.L.          _by Nina Daly_            335
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXVI
+
+FATSHAN CREEK
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1857. May 30.]
+
+The time had arrived that the Admiral had arranged for the destruction
+of the Chinese Fleet. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, my late aide-de-camp
+when I had the Naval Brigade in Crimea, was now with me as Commodore’s
+Flag Lieutenant. My gig only held one sitter besides self. Among my
+other boys I had on board the _Hong-Kong_ with Goodenough were Lord
+Charles Scott, Victor Montagu, and Harry Stephenson. I left Commander
+Turnour in the _Bittern_ to arrange my other boys. He had with him
+Lieutenant Stanley Graham, Dupuis, Foster, Pilkington, and A. V. Paget.
+In the _Sir Charles Forbes_ were Lieutenant Lord Gilford and Hardy
+M‘Hardy. In the Macao Fort were Lieutenant W. F. Johnson and Captain
+Magin, Lieutenant Owen, Royal Marines, Hon. F. G. Crofton, and H.
+B. Russell, Master’s Assistant. My late youngster, “Jacko Hall,” in
+_Childers_ brig was now Flag Captain: a strictly religious man.
+
+[Sidenote: June 1.]
+
+Though everything was ready he had sufficient influence with our good
+chief not to desecrate the Sabbath, and so deferred the attack until
+Monday, the 1st of June, on which day I had the honour of leading the
+boats of the Fleet in an attack on a strong force of the Imperialist
+junks posted in two divisions in well-selected positions in the Fatshan
+Creek. The following account is taken from a letter to my sister Mary:--
+
+                                          _Alligator_, CANTON RIVER,
+                                               _June 20, 1857_.
+
+  The three weeks of this month have been full of excitement. We
+  commenced on the first with as pretty a boat action as can be
+  imagined, though it may not be appreciated because it occurred
+  in distant China. From the heights the Fatshan Creek affair must
+  have been a beautiful sight. My broad pennant was hoisted on board
+  the _Hong-Kong_. The shallow water caused her to ground; she
+  would otherwise have been in front. Took with me Prince Victor of
+  Hohenlohe, having previously been commanded by Her Majesty, through
+  Sir Charles Phipps, to take every care of him, and left Victor
+  Montagu, my proper gig’s mid, on board; but the lifting tide soon put
+  him in the midst. We took the lead. The first division of the Chinese
+  were attacked simultaneously by about 1900 men. I had not more than
+  a quarter of that number to attack the second division, which was
+  three miles higher up the river in a well-selected place, evidently
+  the _élite_ of their Fleet. The junks numbered twenty in one compact
+  row, mounting about fourteen guns each, removed to the side next us,
+  those in the stern and bow being heavy 32-pounders. Boarding nets
+  were dropped on our boats, but not until our men were alongside,
+  as it enabled them all the quicker to sever the cables connecting
+  the junks. _Raleigh’s_ boats well up, and did not require cheering
+  on. The Chinese fired occasional shots to ascertain exact distance,
+  but did not open their heaviest fire till we were within 600 yards.
+  Nearly the first poor fellow cut in two by a round shot was an
+  amateur, Major Kearney, whom I had known many years. We cheered, and
+  were trying to get to the front when a shot struck our boat, killing
+  the bowman. Another was cut in two. A third shot took another’s arm
+  off. Prince Victor leaned forward to bind up the man’s arm with his
+  neck-cloth. While he was so doing, a shot passed through both sides
+  of the boat, wounding two more of the crew; in short, the boat was
+  sunk under us.
+
+[Illustration: _Part of my Galley’s Crew._]
+
+  Our man-of-war boats do not carry iron ballast, but are steadied
+  by “breakers” made to fit neatly under each thwart and filled with
+  fresh water. The tide rising, boats disabled, oars shot away, it
+  was necessary to re-form. I was collared and drawn from the water
+  by young Michael Seymour, a mate of his uncle’s flagship, the
+  _Calcutta_. We were all picked up except the dead bowman, whom the
+  faithful dog “Mike” would not leave. As we retired I shook my fist at
+  the junks, promising I would pay them off. We went to the _Hong-Kong_
+  and re-formed. I hailed Lieutenant Graham to get his boat ready,
+  as I would hoist the broad pennant for next attack in his boat. I
+  had no sooner spoken when he was down, the same shot killing and
+  wounding four others. Graham was one mass of blood, but it was from
+  a marine who stood next to him, part of whose skull was forced three
+  inches into another man’s shoulder. When we reached the _Hong-Kong_
+  the whole of the Chinese fire appeared to be centred on her. She was
+  hulled twelve times in a few minutes. Her deck was covered with the
+  wounded, who had been brought on board from different boats. From
+  the paddle-box we saw that the noise of guns was bringing up strong
+  reinforcements. The account of our having been obliged to retire
+  had reached them. They were pulling up like mad. The _Hong-Kong_
+  had floated, but grounded again. A bit of blue bunting was prepared
+  to represent a broad pennant, and I called out, “Let’s try the row
+  boats once more, boys,” and went over the side into our cutter
+  (_Raleigh’s_), in which was Turnour and the faithful coxswain,
+  Spurrier. At this moment there arose from the boats, as if every man
+  took it up at the same instant, one of those British cheers, so full
+  of meaning, that I knew at once it was all up with John Chinaman.
+  They might sink twenty boats, but there were thirty others who
+  would go ahead all the faster. It was indeed an exciting sight. A
+  move among the junks! They were breaking ground and moving off, the
+  outermost first! This the Chinese performed in good order, without
+  slacking fire. Then commenced an exciting chase for seven miles. As
+  our shot told they ran mostly on to the mud banks, and their crews
+  forsook them. Young Cochrane in his light gig got the start of me,
+  but, having boarded a war junk, John Chinaman did not wait to receive
+  him properly, but preferred mud on the other side. Seventeen junks
+  were overtaken and captured. Three only escaped. Before this last
+  chase my poor Spurrier was shot down. I saw his bowels protruding,
+  with my binoculars in the middle, as he lay in the bottom of the
+  boat, holding my hand. He asked if there was any hope. I could only
+  say, “Where there is life there is hope,” but I had none! He was
+  removed into another boat, and sent to the hospital ship. Strange to
+  say, the good Crawford served him up, and the Admiral’s last letter
+  from Hong-Kong states that Spurrier hoped to return to his duty in
+  a few days.
+
+[Illustration: Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Words fail me, on looking back to this stirring day, to express my
+gratitude that I was allowed to take part in this action. When my ship
+was lost, I felt as if my day was done. But fate was kind, and Fatshan
+Creek gave me another chance in the service I ardently loved.
+
+The following proclamation, by the Chinese Admiral Yeh, was found in
+one of the captured junks after Fatshan:--
+
+  Liang, subaltern in charge of the Tan chau[1] Station of the
+  Kwang Tung Province, whose name is noted for the rank of captain,
+  with authority meanwhile to wear the button of that rank, makes a
+  communication.
+
+  [1] In Hai-nan.
+
+  “I am in receipt of a despatch from the Governor General Yeh, to the
+  following effect:--
+
+  “‘Whereas the barbarian outlaws[2] have not as yet submitted, and the
+  nature of these rebels is not to be fathomed, the officers and men of
+  the different vessels stationed at P’ing-chau[3] must stand well and
+  strictly on their guard, so as to be ready at all points, and prevent
+  any mishap. It is my duty, therefore, to send orders at once to you,
+  on receipt of which you will, in obedience thereto, immediately
+  confer with the other officers associated with you on this service,
+  and with them set an example in concerting proper measures of control
+  and precaution on board your respective vessels. You will continue
+  without distinction of day or night to patrol constantly, as a
+  shuttle moves in the loom, and to make observation assiduously and
+  with secrecy. The soldiers and braves under your command must on no
+  account land, or leave their vessels; and if there be the slightest
+  movement on the part of the barbarians, you must make for Sam-shan
+  and open fire upon them, cutting off and slaying ruthlessly. If
+  any one ruin the undertaking by venturing, be it ever so little,
+  to be slack or indifferent, the officer commanding shall be held
+  responsible; no mercy shall be shown him. Courage in the engagement
+  shall be liberally rewarded. Haste in fear! Haste in earnest!’
+
+  [2] _Fi_, vagabonds, rebels, or any lawless persons.
+
+  [3] Between Sam-shan and Fat-shan.
+
+  “In obedience to the above I write to every other of the officers in
+  charge of vessels. In addition to this it is my duty to write also to
+  you; I accordingly write and request that you will in no particular
+  depart from the instructions of His Excellency.
+
+  “A necessary communication addressed to the officer in charge of the
+  Shun-on Li junk.
+
+  “Hien Fung, 7th year, 5th moon, 8th day (29th May, 1857).”
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXVII
+
+VISIT SARAWAK
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1857. June 5.]
+
+Master and self tried by court-martial on board the _Sybille_ for the
+loss of the _Raleigh_.
+
+[Sidenote: June 12.]
+
+The hull of my poor _Raleigh_ advertised for sale, to take place on
+Monday 29th. Who would have believed it! Commander-in-Chief appointing
+us by commission, dated yesterday, to the _Alligator_.
+
+[Sidenote: Canton River, June 14.]
+
+_Sunday._--My birthday. Enter my forty-ninth year--a day on which one
+no longer cares to be congratulated. Went up in _Hong-Kong_ as far as
+Second Bar, where _Tribune_ and _Highflyer_ are.
+
+[Sidenote: June 15.]
+
+Proceeded to Macao Fort; found they had made a prize of a mandarin junk
+laden with tea.
+
+[Sidenote: June 16.]
+
+Returned as far as Second Bar and met Sampson. No permission from Chief
+to ascend Anninghoy Creek.
+
+[Sidenote: June 18.]
+
+Made preparations for capture of the Chucupee Fort. The Celestials,
+however, mizzled on our approach. Took possession and left Edgell with
+_Tribune_ in charge.
+
+[Sidenote: June 20.]
+
+Anniversary of Her Majesty’s Accession. Dressed ships. At noon fired
+Royal salutes the whole length of the Canton River.
+
+[Sidenote: June 30.]
+
+Shifted berth to below Second Bar, taking old _Alligator_ up. Dined
+with Sir Robert M‘Clure of North-West Passage celebrity in _Esk_.
+
+[Sidenote: July 20.]
+
+Friend “Thomas,” Prince Victor, and self took departure for Dent’s
+comfortable quarters at Macao, on board the _Firmee_. Found poor
+Cleverly still confined to bed. Met a clerk of Dent’s House, who wears
+a moustache, and looks a muff.
+
+[Sidenote: July 21.]
+
+Macao better climate than Hong-Kong. Thomas, Prince Victor, and I dined
+at Endicott’s.
+
+[Sidenote: July 26.]
+
+Heard of the untimely death of poor young Foster, which took place on
+board the _Fury_ off Macao Fort. By _Firmee_ to Hong-Kong and Dent’s
+bungalow. Visit from St. George Foley.
+
+[Sidenote: July 30.]
+
+Returned by _Firmee_ to Macao, meeting Admiral there in _Coromandel_,
+who informed me of the little chance I had of becoming second in
+command, as far as Sir Charles Wood was concerned.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
+
+Mail in from England. Ascertained from Commander-in-Chief that Sir
+Charles Wood at Admiralty disapproved of my broad pennant being hoisted
+after loss of _Raleigh_. Decided on going home.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
+
+The worthy Judge Hulme gave me a farewell dinner. Parting dinner at
+Dent’s. William Dent over from Macao.
+
+[Sidenote: Hong-kong, Aug. 25.]
+
+Took leave of my good friends the Dents. Also the kind Admiral.
+Embarked on board _Formosa_, P. and O. steamer, for passage to England,
+with option of landing and coming on when and how I like. Flagship
+manning rigging and cheering on passing. My _Raleigh’s_ officers on
+board, with others, to wish me good-bye!!!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Sidenote: P. and O. _Formosa_, Aug. 26.]
+
+Once more on the wide and open sea, but in the novel position of
+passenger. Dr. and Mrs. Parker and my worthy friend and old shipmate
+Crawford of the party.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]
+
+10 A.M.--Arrived in New Harbour, Singapore. Kindly taken in by
+Blundell at Government House. Read Clarence Paget’s friendly
+explanation of my recall in the House of Commons.
+
+[Sidenote: Singapore, Sept. 5.]
+
+Found Charlie Grant, wife and child, going to Sarawak.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]
+
+Dined with the Blundells--their daughters, Jane and Anne, particularly
+nice girls.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]
+
+_Emperor_ steam yacht in the Roads requiring a foremast--time for her
+to take me to Sarawak and return while mast getting ready. Pleasant and
+convenient arrangement. News from India; slight improvement, but Delhi
+still untaken.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]
+
+Captain Sidney Grenfell, senior officer in Malacca Straits, cancelled
+the orders already given. The Emperor of Japan’s yacht is not to go
+with me to Borneo! There is a difference between being _in_ and _out_
+of office.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 9.]
+
+Dined with Colonel Liardet at the mess of 21st N.I.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 10.]
+
+Lord Elgin arrived from Calcutta in _Ava_, P. and O. Co’s steamer.
+Breakfasted with Harvey, meeting Greenshields and Paterson, with their
+wives.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]
+
+Many good fellows in Lord Elgin’s staff, George Fitzroy one of them.
+Dined at home (Government House) to meet Lord Elgin.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 12.]
+
+Mail in from England. Turnour and Prince Victor promoted. I senior
+captain on the list. Many letters of congratulation on Fatshan Creek.
+Met Lord Elgin and party at dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]
+
+Embarked on board Emperor of Japan’s yacht.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 15.]
+
+Rounded Taujong Datu. In evening anchored off Taujong Poe.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _A Malay Kampong._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXVIII
+
+SARAWAK--INDIA--ENGLAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1857. Sarawak, Sept. 16.]
+
+Piloted the yacht as far as the Quop. Up in the gig to Sarawak. How
+altered! Extended but not improved in appearance. Miss the attap roofs;
+tiles look heavy. Miss the jungle, and, most of all, the Rajah, who is
+at Brunei.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 17.]
+
+Brooke Brooke and Charlie Grant are here with their wives, and each
+owns a child. How many happy associations of bygone days. Must wait
+Rajah’s return. Dine with the Bishop. Took a stroll in the jungle with
+Alderson’s rifle. Jungle too magnificent. Found the walking bad, and
+the gun heavy, to say nothing of the wood-leeches that adhered to and
+feasted off my legs, in spite of my trousers being tied like bloomers
+round the ankles.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]
+
+Took an early walk over two miles of the road cut through the jungle.
+Somewhat checked by Chinese outbreak. Plenty of wild pig about, but
+difficult to get at.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]
+
+Went to church. Service performed by Bishop, with three assistants.
+Singing by native Christianized children wonderfully good. Young Brooke
+and I dining with the Bishop--a good fellow, without guile or humbug.
+
+[Illustration: _In Bornean Jungle._]
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
+
+Crossed the river to see a man-eating alligator just caught, length 12
+ft. 6 in. Astonishing the ease with which the Malay kris cuts through
+the thick skin between the joints along the neck and tail of the brute.
+Started with Charlie Grant, Alderson, and Watson in an excursion up the
+river by P.M. tide.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]
+
+Grant having put us up in his bungalow, where he is about to build a
+fort and assume the command of that district, we started in afternoon
+on our deer-shooting excursion, getting as far as the Singy Hill Dyaks,
+where we slept in their “scullery.” Unclean animals these Dyaks.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]
+
+A forenoon walk took us some four or five miles to a hut near the deer
+ground. In afternoon, before sunset, we went out in two parties. Saw
+some large red deer; stalked near and shot a doe.
+
+[Illustration: _Whampoa._]
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]
+
+Long walk of ten miles in the hottest sun, and roughest ground. Back to
+boat. On arrival at bungalow, heard of Rajah’s return to his capital.
+Started alone after dinner for Sarawak to join him. Found Brooke in
+great force; nearly five years since we met; he altered, but not so
+much as I expected, considering smallpox and what else he has gone
+through.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]
+
+Embarked on board the _Sir James Brooke_ on return to Singapore.
+Farewell, Sarawak. May you prosper as you so well deserve!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]
+
+Arrived in Singapore. Governor being absent at Penang, put up at
+Whampoa’s, and how comfortable the good fellow made me!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 2.]
+
+Waited on by a deputation of the merchants to invite me to an
+entertainment. Grand dinner given by the residents at the London Hotel.
+Their kindness preventing my responding as I wished.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 4.]
+
+Afternoon agreeably passed at Angus’s small bungalow, where Whampoa,
+“Thomas,” Briggs, and Harrison dined.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
+
+Dined with Napier. Anniversary of his wedding, at which I was present
+thirteen years ago.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 6.]
+
+Mail steamer coming in, decided on going on. Find myself on flag list,
+also recommended for the K.C.B. 4 P.M., embarked on board _Cadiz_, mail
+steamer.
+
+[Sidenote: Penang, Oct. 8.]
+
+1.40 P.M., arrived at Penang. Dined with old friend Lewis, having
+called on Blundell and the recorder, Sir Benson Maxwell. On board at 6;
+_Cadiz_ under weigh.
+
+[Sidenote: Galle, Oct. 15.]
+
+Arrived at Galle before 8 o’clock. Took rooms on shore, but as the
+P. and O. agent was not inclined to let us proceed by way of Bombay
+without extra payment, accepted an offer to go to Bombay in _Madras_
+hired transport. Packed up and off again by sunset.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
+
+Every attention paid to our comfort on board _Madras_. Captain Jenkins
+of the Indian Navy most kind.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
+
+10 P.M., came to in Bombay Harbour.
+
+[Sidenote: India, Oct. 20.]
+
+Landed after breakfast, having received an invitation to take up my
+abode with Captain and Mrs. George Wellesley, he in charge of the
+Bombay Marine. They had a sweet little girl I called the “Râni.” Sir
+Hugh Rose was here on his way to the Mutiny, having already been home
+since the Crimea. He was staying with the Governor, Lord Elphinstone,
+on the hills at Matheran, where I joined them later. Came up, too,
+with our invalided Doctor Crawford, who found his brother here, a
+magistrate, with whom I had a good dinner. We went by train to see the
+wonderful elephant caves with fittings that date two thousand years
+before the birth of our Saviour.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
+
+Kindly welcomed by Lord Elphinstone. So glad to have a few days with
+Hugh Rose. Pleasant party, consisting of Captain Colborn and staff.
+Climate delightful. Blankets pleasant. No mosquitoes.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
+
+At breakfast appeared remainder of staff, Doctor Peel and Colonel Bate.
+Rode with Governor in cool of evening. Such varied and magnificent
+scenery! Rode some eight miles without a hill!
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]
+
+Early ride in other direction with Colonel Russell. Matheran such a
+nice place. Found Harry Parker located on the hill with wife and two
+children; he came to ride and dine.
+
+[Sidenote: Bombay, Nov. 2.]
+
+Returned by 8.30 train to Bombay. Wellesley and I to dine with
+Commander Jenkins and officers of Indian Marine.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
+
+Wellesley and I to call on Governor. Among letters by the mail,
+received the following from my brother-in-law Stephenson.
+
+                                          ROOKSBURY, FAREHAM, HANTS,
+                                            _September 20, 1857_.
+
+  MY DEAR HARRY--You are an Admiral and a K.C.B.; that rejoices my
+  heart.
+
+  I transcribe for your information what has occurred in this matter,
+  as it will please you, in some points.
+
+[Sidenote: Copy of Letter to Lord Panmure.]
+
+                                              _August 29, 1857._
+
+    It is with very great reluctance and some pain that I request your
+    careful attention to this statement, and that you will favour me
+    with an interview.
+
+    The matter of painful grievance is this--
+
+    A public, professional, and personal disparagement, I may say
+    _dishonour_, has been inflicted upon Captain Keppel, R.N., in
+    withholding from him the K.C.B. of the Baltic.
+
+    There exists at the Admiralty a minute of more than twelve years
+    standing, “that he was entitled to the C.B. for services performed
+    in the China Seas under Admiral Parker and Sir Hugh Gough, G.C.B.”
+
+    Keppel gave up the command of the finest ship in the navy,
+    _St. Jean d’Acre_, to serve in the trenches. His predecessor,
+    Lushington, in the command of the Naval Brigade before Sebastapol,
+    upon giving up his command was gazetted on the 10th July 1855.
+    “Captain Stephen Lushington, R.N. to the K.C.B.”
+
+    He was not previously a C.B.
+
+    Keppel from that time to the fall of Sebastapol commanded that
+    Brigade. The General and the Admiral Commanding-in-Chief in their
+    despatches eulogised the services of Keppel in the highest terms of
+    praise.
+
+    He commanded at the fall of Sebastapol, which was the crowning
+    victory of the campaign.
+
+    Lord Lyons _told me_ that the French could not have taken
+    Sebastapol but for Keppel’s well-directed fire.
+
+    His rank of captain is not sufficient excuse. Lushington was
+    gazetted as captain, and when the distribution of the honours were
+    gazetted there was one captain his senior and one his junior K.C.B.
+    (I have had a correspondence with Panmure and Sir Charles Wood upon
+    this subject.)
+
+    I regret, and it is with painful regret I state it, that I can only
+    collect from Wood the “stet pro ratione voluntas,” and that not
+    very courteously given--but let that pass.
+
+    The Government had an historical name, a great naval reputation, in
+    Keppel’s case. I beg to challenge contradiction to my statement.
+
+    Keppel has added to his naval fame, he ranks among the bravest and
+    ablest captains in the British Fleet.
+
+    It cannot be said of him that he has received any _honour_ for his
+    distinguished services in the chief command of the Naval Brigade.
+
+    Many officers, when the list was published, and since the peace,
+    and the widows of officers who never saw a gun fired, have
+    received the K.C.B. who have no claim superior to his; do not
+    misunderstand me, that I express any disapprobation that such
+    distribution has been made, I only wish to express the pain I
+    feel--that services less than his have been considered by the
+    Government as deserving of a higher reward.
+
+    The Government intends to place before the public men deserving of
+    its respect when these honours are conferred.
+
+    In giving to the immediate predecessor in the same command and
+    before the final victory the K.C.B., and withholding it from
+    Keppel, the Government inflicts a stigma on Keppel as being
+    unworthy to receive that which is bestowed upon his immediate
+    predecessor.
+
+    I do assure you that extreme surprise and regret are freely
+    expressed by the highest, the ablest, and by a numerous body of the
+    navy at this unmerited stigma.
+
+    Keppel does not know of my writing this letter to you. I have known
+    him from a child. I am deeply pained at the publick disparagement.
+
+    The recent demonstration at Portsmouth shows the estimation in
+    which he is held by both services. Why should the Government ignore
+    his merit?
+
+    Will you, as an old friend, give me some explanation?
+
+  On 27th August I received the following from Panmure:--
+
+    “MY DEAR STEENIE--The only bone between us is removed. I have taken
+    the Queen’s pleasure in making Harry Keppel K.C.B.--Yours
+
+                                            (Signed) PANMURE.”
+
+  God bless you, my dear Harry.
+          Ever your most devoted brother,
+                  HY. FRED. STEPHENSON.
+
+[I hope I may be excused for inserting this letter, but I can honestly
+declare that I had forgotten its existence until the present moment,
+27th June 1898, when in turning over a heap of bygone manuscripts I
+came across it by accident.
+
+                                                              H. K.]
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
+
+Took leave of my kind host and hostess. 4 P.M., embarked on board
+_Madras_ (P. and O.) hired transport; weighed at sunset.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Left the _Madras_ at Suez by rail to Cairo; wheels running on inverted
+iron saucers about five feet in diameter. Embarked at Alexandria on
+board P. and O. _Ripon_ for Southampton. Among passengers was Mrs.
+Moir, the widow of a doctor who had been killed by the mutineers, six
+hundred miles up country. She lost one of her children in her flight,
+but found it at Calcutta in the care of a friend who had picked the
+child up on the road. Lieutenant Campbell was also a passenger. He had
+made a wonderful escape from the mutineers at Fyzabad. The mutiny and
+its horrors, hairbreadth escapes of our friends, the courage of the
+English women, and the heroic work of Colin Campbell, Henry Havelock,
+Outram, Windham, and many more gallant soldiers, was the only subject
+of conversation on board the steamer.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 6.]
+
+On December 6 arrived at Southampton. Joined invalid wife at Bognor.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]
+
+At Holkham; where we remained until end of year.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXIX
+
+ENGLAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1858. Jan. 1.]
+
+After a few days between brother Edward and friend Eyre we arrived
+in London. Brother Stephenson, as deputy-ranger, placed the lodge in
+Hyde Park at my disposal, which exactly suited the poor invalid. The
+approaching wedding of the Princess Royal with Prince Frederick William
+of Prussia caused the early winter months to be unusually gay. I hardly
+like to mention the names of those who were kind to me under the
+delusion that I had taken care of their sons in China.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
+
+Was at the state ball, Buckingham Palace, previous to the royal
+wedding, which took place on 25th.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
+
+Dined with Her Majesty, Buckingham Palace.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
+
+Dined with Rajah Brooke.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 21.]
+
+The hunting season was now in full force. Having invested with Tilbury
+for the hire of a couple of horses, “Alice” and “General,” with groom,
+at £30 a month, he to replace lame ones; off to my nephew Edward Coke,
+owner of Longford in Derbyshire. Determined frost, giving me time to
+examine horses; both appeared well up to my weight, and good jumpers.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]
+
+Wenny Coke put in an appearance. Frost continued the next ten days,
+making me wish Mr. Tilbury had the horses in his own keeping.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
+
+Change of wind, but none of weather.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
+
+Rode Alice to Ingestre. Kindly welcomed by my old friend Shrewsbury.
+Took up my quarters. Walter Talbot staying here. Fine old place this
+Ingestre--peacocks about.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
+
+Taken to dine with the High Sheriff, P. Williams, at Stafford.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
+
+Ditto weather. Rode General with Walter Talbot to Bifield, Lord
+Bagot’s. Cokes there, and Grosvenors--Lady Constance, Di Coke, very
+pretty.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
+
+Returned to London.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
+
+Dined with Admiral Rous, a pleasure often enjoyed. His parties were
+always sporting, I never missed a race within reasonable distance. My
+good elder brother could not understand why I was so fond of “seeing a
+fool in red riding after a rogue in yellow.”
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
+
+Was getting into the train at Portsmouth, when my faithful old
+coxswain, Spurrier, stopped me with, “Think I have found Lord Gilford’s
+watch.” During the two minutes of the train’s starting, he explained
+that last evening his wife was in one of the numerous haberdasher shops
+in Portsea; a well-dressed woman came in and wanted a smart yacht shirt
+for her friend. On being shown the usual seaman’s shirt, she wanted
+something much smarter; her man had a gold watch and chain that he was
+proud of, and that Admiral Keppel had given him a cheque for £10 only a
+few days before. Poor women! how fast their little tongues will run.
+
+[Illustration: _Suspicious Junks._]
+
+The giving the cheque I perfectly remember, as well as the man I
+gave it to. To go back for a few months before the little affair of
+the Fatshan Creek. The splendid crew of the _Raleigh_ were divided
+into cruising boats and captured many suspicious Chinese junks, some
+laden with cargo; but owing to the scarcity of interpreters they were
+generally condemned and their property confiscated. In the end the
+prizes amounted to a sum of money: not much, if divided among all the
+ships, but a nice little bonus for the captors. On my being promoted
+and ordered home, the captors of strings of pice agreed that I should
+take charge of the money, converted from pice into sterling bills,
+which I was to divide, as I thought proper, among the wounded or most
+deserving characters invalided home. A man belonging to my wounded
+boat’s crew was one of the recipients.
+
+On arriving in London I went to Lord Clanwilliam’s house in Belgrave
+Square and ascertained the number of the gold chronometer watch he
+had given to his son on leaving England. The bill, receipted, was
+soon found. I then had to find my friend Sir Richard Mayne, the Chief
+of Police. He found an intelligent detective, to whom I gave my late
+coxswain’s address at Portsea.
+
+[Sidenote: April.]
+
+Three days afterwards, leaning over the rails in Hyde Park, a
+suspicious-looking character, whose appearance I did not quite approve,
+rapped me on the shoulder and beckoned me to join him. Great was my
+relief when he informed me he had Lord Gilford’s watch. Getting him
+to accompany me to Belgrave Square, on the way he informed me that he
+had gone to Spurrier’s house; they went together to the shop where the
+girl had bought the shirt, but they had seen no more of her. Walking
+back, although dusk, Mrs. Spurrier spotted the girl on the opposite
+side of the street. The detective accidentally placed himself, in a way
+they have, and seeing a respectable girl asked if she had relations
+in the Navy--the Admiralty had sent him down to seek proper objects
+for employment. I need not say that in a few minutes he had the state
+and condition of the man with the yacht shirt. His respectable parents
+lived on the Isle of Wight, etc. The next day detective found his way
+to the parents’ house and had an interview. On his way back he met
+Jack in the best of spirits rolling along; after a few minutes’ talk
+the detective abstracted the watch saying, “No. 8471: the one I was
+looking for.” Two assistants crossed over from the opposite side. By
+this time we were at Belgrave Square. Lord Clanwilliam much pleased;
+also poor Lady Clanwilliam, who was an invalid, but her pleasure was
+followed by distress as to what would become of the poor wounded man.
+I proposed to her Ladyship that I should return the watch to the poor
+fellow and her regrets for the trouble she had given him! When I got
+below, the detective told me that the man would be brought up before
+the magistrates on the Wednesday following. If no witnesses appeared he
+would be discharged. A tenner from Lord Clanwilliam to the detective
+ended the business. Curious that a watch stolen in China, April 20,
+1857, should have been recovered by a detective in Portsea in the same
+month of this year.
+
+[Sidenote: April 5.]
+
+Visit to Lord George Lennox at his “Bleak House,” Southsea. While
+there, was invited to the charming Goodwood for a few days.
+
+[Sidenote: April 22.]
+
+At United Service Club we entertained the Duke of Malakoff at dinner.
+The _Raleigh’s_ crew had meanwhile arrived at Chatham. The dog, Mike,
+in addition to his performance at Fatshan, was at the storming of
+Canton, where he had a scaling-ladder to himself and wore two medals.
+His appearance was enough to clear the battery; the Chinamen fled,
+except those stopped by bullets. Lord Lansdowne was fond of dogs as
+well as music. At his request had Mike brought up from Chatham, and
+he was much admired. He had been given me by Captain Michael Quin,
+hence his name, who was paying off while _Raleigh_ was fitting out
+at Plymouth. Mike was unhappy away from a ship. He was returned to
+Chatham, and attended working parties on shore: I had not the heart to
+remove him. The months April, May, and June brought me into a society
+to which I had been unaccustomed. Although I enjoyed it, it hardly
+comes within a sailor’s life.
+
+[Sidenote: May 10.]
+
+Attended Her Majesty’s ball.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As the following is copied from an old engagement book and can interest
+near relations only, I advise my readers to skip this and try next
+chapter.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Sidenote: June 1.]
+
+My pretty niece Annie Garnier married Colonel Edward Newdigate.
+
+[Sidenote: June 2.]
+
+Cheery dinner at “The Ship,” Greenwich--Admiral Milne, James Blyth,
+Charles Eden, and Colonel F. Campbell.
+
+[Sidenote: June 3.]
+
+Dined, Skinner’s Company.
+
+[Sidenote: June 5.]
+
+Lady Palmerston’s evening.
+
+[Sidenote: June 6.]
+
+Dined with Duchess of Richmond.
+
+[Sidenote: June 7.]
+
+Dined with Lady Downs.
+
+[Sidenote: June 11.]
+
+Dinner with Merchant Taylors.
+
+[Sidenote: June 12.]
+
+Dined with Sir John Thorolds. Evening, Duchess of Norfolk.
+
+[Sidenote: June 15.]
+
+70 Cranbury Park for Bibury Races, with Tom Chamberlain. Have not time
+to describe the place here, but in it were four beautiful pictures
+by Romney of Lady Hamilton. Chamberlain’s son was in the Balaklava
+charge. On the retreat his horse was shot under him. He quietly took
+the saddle off, put it on his head for a protection, and calmly walked
+into camp. My sister Caroline, who was staying with her father-in-law
+at Bishopstoke, wrote me about a pretty cottage for sale. On my
+arrival there I found a small sylph swinging on the entrance gate, a
+daughter of Mr. Peter Wells. I bought the place, with some good Italian
+furniture, for £1500. There was a full-length picture by Swenton of
+a beautiful lady, occupying one end of the dining-room: this was the
+mother of my young friend Zöe on the gate (now Lady Brougham and Vaux).
+The lady was one of a handsome family, such as artists delighted in;
+the background of the picture was of trees, painted at Windsor Forest.
+
+[Sidenote: May 16.]
+
+Dined with H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge.
+
+[Sidenote: May 20.]
+
+Dined with Fred Gye, lessee of the Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden.
+At his charming house near the Thames one met a varied society--Prince
+Leiningen, Prince and Princess Victor of Hohenlohe, the Countess
+Gleichen, Meyerbeer, statesmen, authors, painters, singers, actors:
+it was indeed a cheery centre. After dinner we always adjourned for
+dessert to a glass room 120 feet long, delightfully cool in summer,
+flowers and plants growing; the ladies left the table to sit further
+away in this same room. Gye used to give me passes to the theatres.
+I was one night arranging baskets of flowers between banks, where
+fairies were supposed to be resting, when the curtain suddenly ran
+up faster than I could get to the wings. But though he was a stern
+disciplinarian “behind,” Gye forgave me.
+
+Poor Gye’s terrible fate is fresh in my memory. He was shot
+accidentally while on a visit to Lord Dillon, and died near the covert
+side: sportsman that he was, he always wished to be buried in one. His
+sons have all made their mark. The eldest, whom we used to call the
+“Baron,” married Madame Albani and went on with operatic management.
+Percy is a judge. Herbert went into the Navy and served on the China
+station under me in 1869. Another son was in the Artillery. His
+daughter, Clara, I often see.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Sidenote: June 23.]
+
+Dined with Lord Alfred Churchill.
+
+[Sidenote: June 26.]
+
+Evening, Lady Palmerston. Dinner, Sir Anthony Rothschild.
+
+[Sidenote: June 28.]
+
+Balls at Duchess of Hamilton’s and Lady Caroline Maxe’s.
+
+[Sidenote: June 29.]
+
+Dined with Sir William Middleton. Evening, Lady Pigot’s. During summer
+had been improving my pretty, but small place at Bishopstoke, on the
+bank of the river Itchen. The place suited me down to the ground. The
+stabling, which I rebuilt, was perfection.
+
+[Sidenote: June 30.]
+
+Dinner with Mr. Newdigate at Blackheath.
+
+[Sidenote: July 1.]
+
+Dinner at Navy Club, entertaining First Lord.
+
+[Sidenote: July 4.]
+
+Luncheon, Duchess of Somerset. Dined with Lord Methven.
+
+[Sidenote: July 5.]
+
+Dinner with Duke of Newcastle. Evening party, Duchess of Manchester.
+
+[Sidenote: July 6.]
+
+Review at Aldershot.
+
+[Sidenote: July 7.]
+
+Lady Mayoress’s reception.
+
+[Sidenote: July 8.]
+
+Luncheon with Ranelagh. Dinner, Lord Sandwich. Evening, Lady Jersey.
+
+[Sidenote: July 9.]
+
+Early dinner, Lady de Clifford. Later to Cremorne Gardens.
+
+[Sidenote: July 10.]
+
+Lunch, Lady Shelley.
+
+[Sidenote: July 11.]
+
+Dinner Admiral Walcott. Party Lady Rokeby, and ball at Duchess of
+Wellington’s.
+
+[Sidenote: July 30.]
+
+[Sidenote: Cherbourg, Aug. 5.]
+
+Among friends I always received kind welcome on board Sir Thomas
+Whichcote’s schooner yacht _Enchantress_. Towards the end of the season
+I was with him at Cherbourg, where we had gone to witness the Naval
+Fêtes, and the inauguration of the new railway. Her Majesty and the
+Prince Consort arrived on the 4th August, accompanied by Lords of the
+Admiralty and a brilliant staff. Received by the Emperor Napoleon III.
+and Empress Eugenie. The next morning, at breakfast time, I took up the
+newspaper and read the sudden death on 30th July, at the Earl of Fife’s
+Seat, of my beloved brother-in-law, Stephenson.
+
+To be alone in my grief, I landed and strolled by the side of the road
+up the hill to the high ground. As if to distract my thoughts, I met
+a French cavalry regiment marching up, their brass band playing “Rule
+Britannia.” Was off by the 4 P.M. steamer to join my poor sister Mary,
+who with her children was staying at Folkestone. The death had indeed
+been sudden, heart complaint, while sitting up in bed.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept.]
+
+September found me shooting with Sir Thomas Whichcote at Ashwarby in
+Lincolnshire.
+
+[Sidenote: Ashwarby Park, Sept. 28.]
+
+Beautiful day and lots of birds--wild, of course, they always are. With
+our four guns bagged 180 partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit--making 199
+head. Whichcote did things well; as kind a host as man could have. A
+good hot luncheon. Ditto dinner. Very jolly.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]
+
+Another fine day. Same party; bagged 204 partridges, 18 hares, 1
+rabbit. Haunch of venison for lunch and other good things.
+
+[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Sept. 30.]
+
+Dirty weather with rain. Held up late, but high wind. Same party; 131
+head of game. Much pleased at receiving a letter from Lord Palmerston
+stating he had recommended me to Her Majesty for the appointment of
+Groom-in-Waiting.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]
+
+Better weather, but high wind. Still lots of birds. Same four guns; 200
+partridges, 17 hares, 1 rabbit--218 head! Finish to four good days’
+sport, to say nothing of the evening meal.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 2.]
+
+Party breaking up. Freke and I in dogcart to Lincoln. I to London.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
+
+Up from Portsmouth. Put up at Westbourne Terrace. There had been some
+cases of smallpox near my chambers. Wandered about. Tabooed for fear of
+infection.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
+
+By 11 A.M. train to Bishopstoke. Found sister Caroline and family at
+the Dean’s. Forgot all about the smallpox and embraced the children!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
+
+Busy rearranging Bishopstoke.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]
+
+By afternoon train to Southsea. Received by George Lennox at Bleak
+House. Party to dinner. The good George Greys, etc.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
+
+Went over to Ryde by 12 o’clock boat. Back with George Lennox to see
+the Michael-Seymours before dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]
+
+By 11 A.M. train to Bishopstoke. Dean off again to Rooksbury. Sleep
+to-night in our own cottage.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
+
+By train to Southampton. Met George Lennox. Went on board _Pasha_, a
+Sultan’s yacht, very gaudy. On board _Ripon_, starting for Alexandria
+with Indian passengers. George Lennox back with me to Bishopstoke.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
+
+George Lennox off to Portsmouth, and I to Sir Francis Barings at
+Stratton. Found Pelhams and Nevilles. Tom Baring and wife.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
+
+Should have had some good shooting had the leaves been off the trees.
+Six guns; 110 head.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 19.]
+
+George Lennox and I in Gilman’s carriage to Winchester; great luncheon
+at the Dean’s. Party there. Lord Palmerston from Broadlands. Garniers
+from Rooksbury. Gilman taking us back to Bishopstoke. By train to
+Portsmouth. Put up at George Lennox’s.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 23.]
+
+Business at Admiralty. Dined with Rodney Mundy’s mother; nice cheery
+old lady.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]
+
+By 4.30 train to Godstone. Found Rajah recovering from his sad
+paralytic stroke.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 25.]
+
+Took early leave of Brooke. Returned to Bishopstoke.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 26.]
+
+Found invitation to dine at Broadlands; unluckily for yesterday.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]
+
+Colliers to dine.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
+
+By 3 P.M. train to London.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 1.]
+
+To Westbourne Terrace. Seconded resolution made by Bishop of Oxford
+on Gospel in China. Meeting at Willis’s Rooms. Much amused at Strand
+Theatre. Our Marie Wilton a little darling.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
+
+By Great Western to Berkeley Castle, to Admiral Sir Maurice Berkeley.
+Extraordinary old place. Not all the conveniences of modern houses,
+but made up for in association. Castle wall left as knocked down by
+Cromwell.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
+
+Mounted by Sir Maurice. Well appointed pack. Huntsmen and whips, etc.,
+dressed in yellow velveteen. Best run of the season; I mounted on “Lord
+William.” Mrs. Berkeley and Mrs. A’Court to dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 5.]
+
+Afternoon, inspected twenty-seven good hunters. Hounds out for a walk.
+Handsome pack.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 7.]
+
+By special train. Hounds and all, horses, servants, etc., to
+Gloucester. Meet about five miles beyond. Mounted on Pearce’s small
+black horse. Good hunter.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
+
+Capital mount by Armytage on one of his “jobs” from Carey. First-rate
+run and I in good position throughout. Baring of Cheltenham arrived.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]
+
+Baring, Armytage, and I hedgerow shooting. Sport not much. Mrs. and
+Miss Canning arrived; very tall. Mrs. Berkeley charming.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
+
+Shooting to-day something more like; plenty of foxes too.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]
+
+Mount again on Pearce’s little black horse. Carried me right well
+throughout a longish day, one fall into a lane. Have greatly enjoyed my
+visit to Berkeley Castle.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 13.]
+
+By early train to get across to Peterboro’ and Huntingdon. On a visit
+to Hinchingbrook. Colonels Knox and Vyse and wife, Annie Lady Montagu,
+and niece Emily Leeds, etc.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
+
+Shooting order of the day. Six guns; 189 head. Duke of Manchester good
+shot. The charming Duchess came to dine.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]
+
+Mounted by Lord Sandwich to meet Lord Fitz-William’s hounds. Fog too
+thick to draw a fox. Provoking--uncommon well mounted. The Manchesters
+left.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 18.]
+
+Up early, mounted by Lord Sandwich, to breakfast at Kimbolton. Lord
+Cowper there. To meet the Oakley. Did not find till late. Left to ride
+22 miles home.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]
+
+Mounted by Sandwich to meet the Cambridgeshire. Nasty wooded country.
+Foxes, but no getting away. Rode to station and returned to London by
+1.30. Dined with Rokeby. Met the Manchesters.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
+
+By 3 P.M. train to Bishopstoke; lost my purse between station and home,
+containing £9: 10s. Horrid bore!
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
+
+Spent Christmas at Bishopstoke.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXX
+
+ENGLAND--GROOM-IN-WAITING
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1859. Jan. 1.]
+
+Saw the New Year in at the Southampton Yacht Club House with George
+Lennox, having dined on board Turner’s yacht.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
+
+Received enclosed:--
+
+  (COPY.)
+
+                                    BROADLANDS, _18th January 1859_.
+
+  MY DEAR ADMIRAL KEPPEL--If you should happen to be disengaged on
+  Thursday, would you come over to us on that day and stay and help to
+  beat a cover on Friday.--Yours sincerely,
+                                                (Signed) PALMERSTON.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
+
+To Broadlands.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
+
+At Broadlands, shooting.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]
+
+Dined with the Gilmans, meeting my old friend Pereira of Dent’s House,
+Hong-Kong.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
+
+Wife and I by train to Winchester. The good Dean sending to meet us.
+Party to dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 19.]
+
+To Winchester to appeal against property being assessed at £80, when it
+was £50. Gained appeal.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 21.]
+
+Augustus Leeds brought over the sad news of Lady Sandwich’s sudden
+death. Sad indeed! Planted a couple of deodars on bank of river.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]
+
+Train to Winchester. Dean entertaining judges and grand jury at dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: London, Mar. 2.]
+
+Dressed at my tailor’s; attended Her Majesty’s levée.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 3.]
+
+By train to Sleaford and Ashwarby--Whichcote sending for me. Got two
+hunters from Percival at Lincoln. Welby to stop.
+
+[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Mar. 4.]
+
+Meet the Duke of Rutland’s hounds at Haverholm, occupied by the Dowager
+Lady Winchilsea, the beautiful Fanny Rice. Short runs with two foxes.
+Bad scenting day; ground dry and hard. Got one cropper!
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
+
+No hunting. After luncheon another walk. Looked over ground, where some
+rasping jumps had been taken.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 6.]
+
+Marquis of Tweeddale kindly placed his horses at my disposal.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
+
+Hounds met at Glinn, Welby’s place. The Drummonds and many friends
+there. Killed two foxes; but a bad scenting day.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
+
+Meet at Fulbeck--Reverend Fane’s. Rode Percival’s horse, wilful brute;
+though a good jumper.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
+
+Meet at Turner’s. Mount from Lord Tweeddale, in addition to my
+Percival; a short run in afternoon.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
+
+Took leave of Tom Whichcote, etc. He appears to have everything a man
+could wish.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
+
+Arrived at North Creake for wedding. Miss North and her sister
+Catherine, and their cousin, Sara North, splendid girl of seventeen.
+
+[Sidenote: North Creake, Mar. 15.]
+
+Party increased by George and Augusta Keppel. Twenty-two to dinner.
+Everything well arranged.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]
+
+Auspicious day arrived--sun shining, fourteen bridesmaids. Edward
+performed. Stand-up breakfast, seventy or eighty attending.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
+
+General dispersion. Took up abode with Astleys: she charming. Two Miss
+Lee-Warners and Bobby Hammond to dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
+
+Mounted by Astley with Lord Hastings’ harriers: very good fun. Mrs.
+Astley’s riding first-rate: she does everything well.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]
+
+Train to Diss. Met there by brother Edward. Dogcart to Quidenham;
+friend Edward and Mrs. Eyre to meet me at dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: London, Mar. 25.]
+
+Eyre and wife taking me to Harling Station. To London. Dressed at Four
+Swans, and dined at Fishmongers’ Hall. Had to return thanks for the
+Navy. Put up at friend Dunn’s, Lowndes Square.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
+
+Dined with Clarence Paget.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]
+
+By 11 train, meeting Mark Wood at King’s Cross. To Grantham. Walked
+to Syston. Party, Lord and Lady Middleton, two Miss Reynardsons, Miss
+Beaumont and brother, Reynardson, Wood, Gibbs, Hillyard and his wife,
+Cole, Fox, and Whichcote. Jolly. Cook, first-rate.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
+
+A regular fall of snow. Party hunting nevertheless. Grantham Hunt Ball
+good fun. Went with the Misses Fane.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]
+
+Great meet of the Belvoir Hounds; with Thorolds in their brougham.
+Mounted on a roarer, saw part of a very good run.
+
+[Sidenote: April 1.]
+
+Croxton Park Races. Show of vehicles from Syston. Box seat with
+Reynardson on his drag. Races fair, and weather as usual. Bitter cold.
+Picked up £15.
+
+[Sidenote: April 2.]
+
+Finish to an agreeable week at Syston.
+
+[Sidenote: April 4.]
+
+I never had time to attend to politics, but born of a Whig family
+throw in my chance with kind friend and honest politician, Sir Francis
+Baring. Stood with him for Portsmouth. After a week’s chaffing and
+riotous living, I found myself at bottom of poll! The difference
+between Whig and Tory now: one is dead, and the other extinct!
+
+[Sidenote: May 30.]
+
+At Lord Denbigh’s.
+
+[Sidenote: June 1.]
+
+With Dunne and party to the great Derby race. Won by Hawley’s “Musjid.”
+Dressed and went to Her Majesty’s concert.
+
+[Sidenote: June 3.]
+
+On return from Epsom found at club telegraphic message of my wife’s
+sudden illness. Arrived at Bishopstoke 11 P.M. The poor wife had a fit
+at 6; unconscious since.
+
+[Sidenote: June 4.]
+
+A succession of fits during the day. My true friend Eyre here in answer
+to telegraph.
+
+[Sidenote: June 5.]
+
+Georgina Crosbie arrived in evening an hour before the sad end.
+
+[Sidenote: June 7.]
+
+What could I have done without friend Eyre?
+
+[Sidenote: June 9.]
+
+The last sad ceremony performed by the Dean of Winchester in the Parish
+Church. Her brother William and two sisters, my clergyman brother,
+Edward and Reverend Edward Eyre attended, and the good Rajah Brooke had
+a bouquet laid on the coffin.
+
+[Sidenote: July 9.]
+
+Welcome to Larling from friend Eyre.
+
+[Sidenote: July 18.]
+
+At Quidenham Parsonage with Edward.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
+
+Misfortunes never come singly. From Bombay hear of Sussex Stephenson’s
+serious illness.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXI
+
+IN WAITING
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1859. Osborne, Sept. 22.]
+
+First appearance as Groom-in-Waiting at Osborne. Her Majesty, with
+the Prince Consort, had gone to Balmoral, leaving the younger Royal
+children, Prince Leopold and Princess Beatrice, in charge of Lady
+Caroline Barrington. Never was an Admiral who felt so proud of being a
+groom. Lady Caroline came of a stately family. As we walked into dinner
+I felt myself smaller than I really was.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. to Oct.]
+
+Carriages and steamers were at her ladyship’s disposal; it was
+interesting to see how quickly the charming young Prince learned to
+acknowledge the sentries’ salutes as we passed.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 4.]
+
+Delightful as the land excursions were in that beautiful island, I felt
+more at ease when her ladyship proposed a trip on board the _Fairy_
+steam-yacht commanded by my friend D. Welch, who handled her as if she
+had been a jolly-boat. We went into Southampton Docks at a pace which
+puzzled me. Lady Caroline kindly proposed a trip in carriages up to
+my pretty cottage at Bishopstoke, where I had the honour of providing
+tea. H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent was residing at Norris Castle. Lady
+Caroline and myself went three evenings in the week to make up a rubber
+of whist. H.R.H. was the only person who always lost. We were paid in
+the brightest shillings, polished for the occasion.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
+
+My term of waiting was only too soon over; I was relieved by Colonel
+Cavendish.
+
+[Sidenote: Windsor Castle, Dec. 27.]
+
+I was again in waiting at Windsor Castle, having relieved Colonel
+Kingscote. Adjoining me were Captain du Plat, Equerry to the Prince
+Consort; and Captain George Henry Grey, Equerry to the Prince of
+Wales; these young men were old friends and agreeable companions. I
+took my two hunters and put them up at Windsor. Everything was new and
+interesting to me. Late, when we retired, my friends the Equerries
+kindly came to my room to enjoy their smoke. In the mornings we used to
+assemble in the corridor, and there wait for orders, riding, shooting,
+or whatever was going on.
+
+One morning the Equerries were wanted to attend H.R.H., while I had
+permission to amuse myself, which I did by a ride in Windsor Great
+Park. It appeared that the Prince Consort, having bought some pictures
+in London, wanted a fit place to hang them. Passing through the
+Equerries’ rooms, H.R.H. came to mine. I was, as stated, out riding.
+The Prince immediately smelt smoke, and remarked, “The little Admiral
+told me he did not smoke.” My friends only smiled, H.R.H. was never
+undeceived! Once, when riding was the order of the day, I rode my best
+hunter. On crossing one of the streams, the Prince of Wales proposed
+that I should try my horse over the river instead of the bridge. I got
+over, but my horse made an over-reach and struck my right heel, which
+gave me pain. It was in 1840, when my father was Master of the Horse,
+that a boy was found concealed in a room adjoining Her Majesty’s. Since
+then, it had been the custom, when Her Majesty was about to retire,
+for the Groom-in-Waiting to precede, and see the coast clear. My foot
+gave me pain, and I had taken up a spot in advance, when these horrid
+Equerries, whom I had not forgiven about the smoke, picked me up, and
+having planted me in the right place, disappeared. I made a proper bow
+when Her Majesty passed, and almost forgave my playfellows about the
+smoke! The Prince Consort had introduced the Christmas Tree, and we
+used to dance the Old Year out and the New Year in, to the tune of the
+“Old English.” When the clock struck twelve, the band suddenly struck
+up “God Save the Queen.” Everybody was very hot, and everybody kissed
+his partner except myself. I had the honour of dancing with Her Royal
+Highness the Princess Louise.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXII
+
+THE CAPE COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1860. Jan. 1.]
+
+At Windsor Castle. Ladies-in-Waiting--Lady Caroline Barrington, Hon.
+Mrs. Bruce, and Lady Ely, while the Maids of Honour were Hon. Beatrice
+Byng and Hon. Emily Cathcart.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
+
+Shooting with the Prince Consort were the Prince of Wales and Duke
+of Cambridge, while in attendance were Colonel F. H. Seymour,
+Major-General Hon. R. Bruce, Captain George Grey, Colonel Clifton, and
+myself. Earl de Grey was of the party.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
+
+Finished my turn in waiting by hunting with the Prince Consort’s
+harriers.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
+
+To Berkeley Castle. Kind welcome from Sir Maurice and Lady Charlotte.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
+
+Hounds met at Sir G. Jenkins’s, who gave me a good breakfast. Woodland
+country; plenty of foxes killed.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
+
+Wild-goose shooting: novel and interesting, but hard work.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
+
+Hunted from Berkeley Castle. Colonel “the giant” in great force.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
+
+Daily hunting; foxes often found in trees!
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]
+
+My appointment to Cape command. By rail to London; put up with sister
+Mary Stephenson.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
+
+_Forte_, commissioned by Captain E. Turnour; Commander V. C. Buckley
+joined. Officers and men joined by end of week. Ship being manned by
+drafts from various ports; not allowed to enter seamen for ourselves.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
+
+Sunset, hoisted flag, white at mizzen.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
+
+Saluted flag of Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Edward Harvey. Issued
+contract; made clothing according to recent regulations, hats included:
+a mistake.
+
+[Sidenote: March.]
+
+Had some difficulty in getting Admiralty to exchange the heavy old
+launches for the new forty-foot pinnaces which are now supplied to all
+other ships. Considerable difference in the stowage of this ship and
+that of the _Raleigh_.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
+
+Joined Marquis of Queensberry, naval cadet, and Mr. Stephenson, mid.
+Dockyard people building a small poop for the accommodation of the
+captain, secretary and flag-lieutenant--the poop not to show above the
+hammock netting, and not to occupy more of upper deck than just abaft
+the after gun. Screw to be raised as in line-of-battleships: the best
+arrangement under all circumstances that could be made.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
+
+Cabins had already been fitted for the conveyance of Sir George Grey
+and staff. An order to prepare cabins for Lady Grey and maid, coming so
+late, deprived me of half my accommodation.
+
+[Sidenote: April 3.]
+
+In consequence of Her Majesty’s kind consideration, attended at Windsor
+as Groom-in-Waiting.
+
+[Sidenote: Windsor, April 5.]
+
+Attended confirmation of Prince Alfred. Lord George Lennox as Lord of
+Bedchamber to the Prince Consort.
+
+[Sidenote: April 7.]
+
+_Forte_ left Sheerness for Spithead. Cheered by the Norfolk Militia.
+
+[Sidenote: April 10.]
+
+Prince of Wales left for the Continent, attended by Hon. R. Bruce and
+Captain George Grey.
+
+[Sidenote: April 12.]
+
+My little happy holiday over, Her Majesty kindly hoping to see me back.
+Rejoined _Forte_ at Spithead and rehoisted flag. Salutes exchanged with
+Admiral Commander-in-Chief Wm. Bowles, C.B. Was informed that on way
+round from Sheerness a leak was discovered in the screw aperture.
+
+[Sidenote: April 16.]
+
+Steamed into harbour; secured alongside _Sultan_ hulk. Transported guns
+forward and all heavy weight to discover the leak.
+
+[Sidenote: April 20.]
+
+Ship taken into steam basin, preparatory to being docked. In taking her
+in, dockyard people managed to carry away jib-boom. No smoking allowed;
+shifted ship’s company to _Victorious_ hulk.
+
+[Sidenote: April 21.]
+
+Hauled into No. 7 dock, dockyard people stopping leak.
+
+[Sidenote: April 23.]
+
+Hauled out of basin, only just in time, ship hung in entrance. Another
+two minutes, and she must have grounded, as well as two three-deckers.
+Sundry sheets of copper were rubbed off on port side. Obliged to heel
+the ship to repair damage.
+
+[Sidenote: April 27.]
+
+Came to at Spithead.
+
+[Sidenote: April 28.]
+
+Noon, weighed, running for the Needles.
+
+[Sidenote: April 29.]
+
+10 P.M.--Came to in Plymouth Sound.
+
+[Sidenote: Plymouth, April 30.]
+
+Exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Sir Barrington
+Reynolds, K.C.B. 3.30 P.M., having embarked His Excellency Sir George
+and Lady Grey, Captains Speke and Grant, African travellers, friend
+Boileau, and others, weighed and left the Sound.
+
+[Sidenote: May 9.]
+
+3 P.M.--Came to in Funchal Roads, Madeira. While steaming in exchanged
+salutes 13 guns, with Flag-Officer Inman, whose flag, blue at the
+mizzen, was flying on board United States corvette _Constellation_,
+the first United States “Officer’s Flag” we had seen. Saluted also
+the Portuguese flag with 21 guns, and English Consul Erskine on his
+leaving the ship.
+
+[Sidenote: May 12.]
+
+Ship was visited by Lord and Lady Fortescue and family, also my kind
+friend of long standing, the late Consul, Mr. Stoddard. As soon as they
+were landed, weighed and made sail.
+
+[Sidenote: May 24.]
+
+Celebrated Her Majesty’s birthday by a dinner on the poop. At 8 P.M.
+that celebrated old beast, Neptune, hailed the ship, burning lights,
+etc., and then came on board amidst the usual downfall of water, and
+promised to pay his respects on the morrow to all such as had not
+before passed through his dominions, comprising three-fourths of those
+on board. He then took his departure for the night, to the relief of
+some and inconvenience of all, amidst fire and water-works, the light
+of his car being visible astern for an hour afterwards.
+
+[Sidenote: May 25.]
+
+His Oceanic Majesty came on board and performed the usual ceremony.
+
+[Sidenote: June 3.]
+
+10 A.M.--Steamed into Rio de Janeiro harbour. Returned salute from
+_Madagascar_. While running in, and after coming to, had to return and
+exchange no end of salutes. Brazilian Flag, 21 guns; Admiral’s salute,
+13; French man-of-war brig, 13; and Prussian Commodore, 13.
+
+[Sidenote: Rio, June 4.]
+
+Passengers disembarked and proceeded to Petropolis. _Tribune_, 31,
+Captain Geoffrey Hornby, arrived from Pacific and exchanged salutes.
+
+[Sidenote: June 7.]
+
+Passengers returned. Weighed and stood out of Rio harbour.
+
+[Sidenote: June 8.]
+
+12.5 P.M.--Henry Hill, seaman, fell overboard while the ship was going
+10 knots under sails and steam. Cutter fitted with Clifford’s admirable
+apparatus for lowering was down in the shortest time and the man saved.
+
+[Illustration: Forte _at Rio._]
+
+[Sidenote: June 9.]
+
+An untoward event occurred during the first watch. Under extreme
+pressure from Captain Turnour and the surgeon, who stated that the
+Governor would either commit suicide or murder his wife, I consented
+to return to Rio Janeiro, and reached that port on the evening of the
+12th. Next morning, having landed the Governor, Lady Grey, and maid,
+sent an officer to know when His Excellency would be ready to embark.
+He sent word he was then ready, and that if I would not write home what
+had occurred he would not. I kept _my_ word.
+
+[Sidenote: June 13.]
+
+Sailed, and arrived at Simon’s Bay on 4th July, 8 P.M. His Excellency
+was in such a hurry to convey to Admiral Sir Frederick Grey the fact
+of his arrival, that, unseen, he dropped himself into a shore boat and
+landed at Admiralty House.
+
+[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, July 5.]
+
+Landed, after usual salutes, to pay respects to Admiral Sir F. Grey. I
+mentioned the Governor’s message to me at Rio, to the effect that if
+I would not write home what had occurred he would not. I ascertained
+that in his statement to Sir Frederick he made out that the proposition
+not to communicate home came, in the first place, from me to him. This
+untruth accounts for my subsequent treatment.
+
+[Sidenote: July 8.]
+
+The _Forte_ requiring a thorough refit, shifted flag to my friend
+Captain Algernon de Horsey’s ship, the _Brisk_, and with our
+travellers, Speke and Grant, prepared to visit the East Coast.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXIII
+
+CAPE COMMAND--FLAG IN _BRISK_
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1860. Monday, July 16.]
+
+Embarked with Flag-Lieutenant and Secretary. Hoisted flag on board
+_Brisk_, Captain Algernon de Horsey. Received with yards manned.
+Embarked Captains Speke and Grant, with his guard of 100 Hottentots,
+volunteers from the Cape Mounted Rifles; also 12 mules, the Cape
+Parliament having voted £300 to purchase them for the interesting
+expedition. Sailed at sunset, leaving _Forte_ with Captain Turnour in
+charge. Rounded to on signal.
+
+[Sidenote: July 21.]
+
+3 P.M.--Came to in 9-1/2 fathoms off the mouth of Buffalo River. The
+township of East London on the south entrance composed of storehouses
+and other new and neat-looking buildings. At the end of a substantial
+stone wharf stands a lighthouse to correspond--not mentioned in the
+charts; it showed a bright fixed light. The town is communicated with
+by a surf boat hauled to and fro over the bar by means of a hawser, one
+end of which is attached to an anchor outside; as uninviting a coast to
+approach as can be imagined. Should a railway or any good road for the
+conveyance of the produce of the country be established to Algoa Bay,
+the Port of East London may prove unworthy of the name it has assumed.
+At 5 P.M. weighed, proceeded under sail.
+
+[Sidenote: July 24.]
+
+No observation yesterday, but those of to-day at noon showed that the
+current for the last 48 hours had been south-west. 97 miles. Proceeded
+making particular survey of coast.
+
+[Sidenote: July 26.]
+
+Came to at 4 P.M., in the magnificent Bay of Delagoa, about 7 miles
+from the entrance of the river. Sent a boat in to communicate: but more
+to ascertain what might be doing in the slave way.
+
+[Sidenote: Shefeen Island, July 27.]
+
+Landed at daylight on the Island of Shefeen; more for the purpose of
+hauling the seine than shooting; nevertheless took my Whitworth rifled
+carbine. Observing along the sand prints of a small cloven foot, which
+I took to be that of the pig, Algie Heneage and I struck into the bush;
+stunted trees, but in places tolerably clear underneath. At first there
+was little to attract our attention beyond sundry paroquets and an
+occasional pigeon, for the destruction of which we were not prepared.
+
+I fired once at some distance at what I imagined to be rabbits,
+playing about at the edge of the jungle, but they were too nimble for
+me. It was while on our return towards the beach, where we expected
+a breakfast of fresh-caught fish, that a beautiful antelope bounded
+across our path. It was large for an animal of that species, a dark
+reddish-brown colour. I was now satisfied that the numerous footprints
+that we had seen were not pig, but those of deer. The jungle being
+too thick for us to beat, or even see many yards into, proposed that
+we should conceal ourselves in any likely-looking shady spot, with
+sufficient clear range for a fair shot.
+
+The ground was dry and the air clear of mosquitoes. We had been
+quiet for about a quarter of an hour, when I observed an antelope
+approaching, apparently unconscious of danger, nibbling the bits of
+herb or grass that grew up between the dead leaves, when within twenty
+paces of our position it stopped to feed, broadside towards us. It was
+a full-grown doe. I observed her pretty head with its beautiful large
+black eye, and not wishing to spoil what I intended to have stuffed as
+a trophy, I raised my rifle and aimed, so as to hit her just behind the
+shoulder. Heneage was ready, knife in hand, to cut her throat, when I
+pulled the trigger; the lock snapped, and in a moment my beauty bounded
+into the jungle. I had forgotten to put a cap on; the rifle was a
+breechloader, to which I was hardly accustomed. Our disappointment can
+well be imagined.
+
+We remained a short time longer in the same spot, hardly hoping that
+anything else would come near us. Now these antelopes, with their
+spindle legs and tiny feet, make no noise, but on looking in the
+direction I observed a whole troop of small monkeys, whose curiosity
+had brought them to ascertain who the intruders were who had so
+disturbed the quiet of their domain. They had spread themselves over
+some width of ground, and were advancing with all the caution of so
+many diminutive riflemen. When within about fifty yards one of those in
+advance made us out and gave notice.
+
+They came to “general halt,” which was followed by a general chatter,
+and I could observe each small round head peeping from behind the stump
+of bush or tree where it had taken shelter. Theirs were little black
+faces, surmounted by a white fringe, which somewhat resembled the frill
+of a woman’s cap. The body was green, belly white, and tail long;
+however, as they did not appear inclined to make a further advance,
+sent a bullet at the head of one who appeared to have the command, and
+I was glad to find that I had only struck the stump of the bush behind
+which he had concealed his active little carcass.
+
+Their curiosity having been gratified, they scampered away on all
+fours, chattering and closing together as they went along. We never saw
+them on either bushes or trees, which caused me to think that those
+small things were the same sort I had a distant shot at in the morning,
+and must have been monkeys and not rabbits.
+
+We soon shifted our berth some little distance to a spot affording a
+tolerable range, considering the denseness of parts of the jungle,
+and made ourselves comfortable, perhaps too much so, as after a while
+I started from a reverie to a pinch from Algie, and from the quarter
+pointed at could just see the round red back of an antelope moving
+towards us. I held in my breath as it approached. Unfortunately I had
+laid aside my rifle. The motion to lay hold of it was sufficient to
+cause the creature to raise its head, and the noise of the loose steel
+ring on the stock of the cavalry carbine made it dash into the bush,
+where it was out of sight in an instant.
+
+It would be useless to describe the number of chances we had or the
+number of deer we might have bagged if something had not happened.
+
+Our last chance occurred when we had agreed to take up positions on
+separate mounds, covered with brush and stunted trees, two-thirds
+round, about twenty yards in width, round which was a fair open space
+of long grass. In less than half an hour we observed a fine antelope
+come out of the jungle within ten yards of where I knew that Algie must
+be lying. It stopped and looked about, and I saw that it was about the
+size of a calf, but with the thinnest legs; so delicate and slender
+as to appear unfit to support the round, plump body it had to carry.
+Watched, expecting every moment to see the beautiful creature bound
+into the air and fall to the report of Algie’s gun. However, it walked
+leisurely--stepping a trifle lame with the near hind leg--across into
+the opposite bank.
+
+I had my rifle to my shoulder, but Heneage had been so kind in allowing
+me all the former chances, I thought it would not be doing the handsome
+if I deprived him of this, the last and only one he would have. When
+I inquired how he had come to allow so good an opportunity to pass, I
+found he had just awoke from a pleasant sleep.
+
+We returned on board, amused and interested, but having had a blank
+day, did not boast. De Horsey, in pulling up the Tenby river, saw
+a hippopotamus, but he had no gun with him. The Governor informed
+us that there were plenty of rhinoceros as well as elephant in the
+neighbourhood. I noticed a magnificent pair of tusks in his room.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXIV
+
+EAST COAST SPORT
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1860. Aug.]
+
+After leaving Delagoa Bay it was not much out of our way to pass the
+small island of Europa, said to abound in turtle.
+
+[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.]
+
+We made it at about 9 P.M. on Thursday, August 2. The moon was at
+its full. Although a partial eclipse darkened it for a while, by the
+time we were off the north end of the island the moon shone out in
+full splendour. It was thought that nothing would be easier than to
+heave the ship to and send a boat in and bring off as many turtle as
+we required. At 10 P.M. a party shoved off in the cutter, and shortly
+afterwards Heneage, O’Rorke, and self left in the galley.
+
+We found a sea breaking on a reef that bounded the coast, but farther
+to the west the breakers became smaller as we got under its lee. A
+coral reef extending along the coast a full half mile from the shore
+was clearly distinguishable. Watching our opportunity we got on to
+shelving coral, it being dead low water, and then found that we had a
+good quarter of a mile to haul her over water which varied from nothing
+to six or eight feet with deep holes. However, these were made clear by
+the light of the moon, and nothing was left but to haul the boat over,
+or return on board. The water deepened into a comparatively clear
+space between it and the shore, forming a sort of lagoon. The boat was
+easily pushed through this, and we landed shortly after midnight.
+
+Leaving the remainder to light a fire and prepare for a night’s
+bivouac, O’Rorke and self started along the beach to the westward to
+look for turtle. Although there were the tracks of many in the sand, we
+had travelled two miles before we came to marks that appeared fresh. A
+large turtle had been coquetting about, as is their wont, in search of
+a fit spot in the dry sand to deposit her cargo of eggs.
+
+In this instance, it was evident that the old lady had been difficult
+to please, as after many turns and windings the track led again inland;
+and sure enough, ten yards from the beach, then about eight inches
+deep, appeared a small oval-shaped hillock, exposed by day to the heat
+of the sun. It was evident, when we got alongside, the turtle was
+sleeping away the time until the rising tide had lifted her high enough
+to allow of her proceeding to sea for further amusement.
+
+The first she must have known of our presence was by the feel of our
+hands under the outer edge of her shell--a sort of tickling under
+the ribs--by which we endeavoured to turn her on her back. This she
+resented by striking out with all four fins, and not only covering
+O’Rorke with sand and water, but sending me sprawling on my back.
+Luckily she was aground.
+
+O’Rorke started into the jungle, returning presently with two branches,
+the best he could get, to act as levers, with which to turn her over.
+This was a far more troublesome job than we expected. The weight of
+the brute alone was 360 lbs., and the strength of the foremost fins
+wonderful; however, after considerable twisting and manœuvring we
+managed, with our levers, to get her off side to the edge of a hollow
+about eight feet by six, and with this advantage, and a heave together,
+we turned her over. There she lay on her back flapping wet sand, but
+comparatively helpless. The tide was now rising, and there was nothing
+left but for O’Rorke to return to where we had left the boat for
+assistance, leaving me to manage the best I could. I suppose I am the
+first Admiral who ever kept the middle watch on a turtle. As the sea
+rose over the outer reef it came rolling in to where I was seated, and
+as each roller lifted my charge she renewed her struggles to get rid of
+me. Our object was to keep her head towards the sandy beach, which rose
+rather abruptly, by inserting one end of the lever, which was crooked,
+under her back and behind her fore fins when she raised herself up,
+which she did whenever a roller came to her assistance. To prevent
+her floating, I seated myself on her stomach. By these means I caused
+her to heave herself in nearer the shore, but in doing this I got so
+plastered with wet sand that I must have had the appearance of a small
+pyramid. At another time she gave me such a slap on the knee, I thought
+my leg was broken; the pain was great.
+
+I never had so troublesome a watch; it appeared to me O’Rorke had been
+hours away, although the good fellow had run there and back. Having to
+keep 360 lbs. weight struggling to save its embryo family from being
+made into omelets, herself into “soups and steaks,” as I saw afterwards
+chalked on her back, was no small undertaking. Nor can I describe my
+delight when some of the boat’s crew hove in sight. Another struggle
+with the brute and I must have given in or have been carried out to sea
+holding on to the hind fins, like my friend King George of Tonga Tabu.
+
+[Illustration: _My middle watch._]
+
+Having secured our turtle, a further walk along the sandy beach, a bend
+to the S.W. brought us within reach of unpleasant smells, and close to
+a projecting point, within sight of the remains of a huge whale, from
+which rats, by thousands, were rushing towards the jungle; when the
+crabs, to say nothing of conger eels, cleared the bones of the monster,
+they fell to the ground.
+
+We secured several joints of the backbone, which, when cleaned and
+covered with canvas, were formed into curious camp stools, in my garden
+at Bishopstoke. How the monster got where we found him, over the
+half-mile of coral-bound coast, we wondered; unless the unfortunate
+brute was thrown over the reef and stranded during one of those fearful
+hurricanes which visit these latitudes.
+
+[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.]
+
+The shooting was not much. There were some goats running wild; the sire
+of this stock was described as a magnificent fellow, with an immense
+beard and strong smell. A few pigeons were seen, but so unaccustomed
+were they to the intrusion of human beings as to allow themselves, when
+fatigued, to be chased from bush to bush, knocked over by stones or
+sticks. The frigate birds, some black, visit these latitudes.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]
+
+Much excitement was caused at low tide by our men chasing, between the
+openings of the coral, rock cod, conger-eels, and parrot fish--the
+latter of a brilliant green colour, some of them weighing four or five
+pounds.
+
+[Sidenote: Mozambique, Aug. 7.]
+
+5 P.M.--Came to in Mozambique Harbour in 5-1/2 fathoms. A berth that
+would suit the _Forte_. Care to be taken running in, in a long ship.
+Saluted Portuguese flag. Like most Portuguese forts, on a grand scale,
+but the guns are small and out of date; about 100 men. A few small
+vessels at anchor. Trade small, principally in ivory, rhinoceros horns,
+and ebony. Slaver in disguise. Was received by the Governor, Don Joao
+Tavares de Almeida, who did me the honour of dining with me on board.
+No Consul. One Don Joao de Costa Sourez most obliging.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]
+
+7 A.M.--Weighed, made sail.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
+
+Having been in these seas before, I cautioned Captain de Horsey to
+keep a good look-out for slavers. We were running under sail with
+light southerly winds, and proposed fires being lighted and banked up.
+De Horsey was particular about desecrating the Sabbath, but in the
+afternoon a sail was reported. Later she was made out from the masthead
+standing to the eastward. I advised De Horsey to take his glass and see
+for himself.
+
+Before he was half-way up the fore-rigging I gave the order to light
+the fires. The smoke had no sooner ascended than the look-out on the
+fore-top-gallant yard sang out, “She’s gone round without taking her
+studding sails in.” The wind fell light by sunset. We stopped engines
+under the stern of a fine rakish-looking ship. Lieutenant Adeane was
+sent on board, and took possession of the _Manuela_, formerly the
+_Sunny South_, a Rio packet of upwards of 702 tons. She had 846 slaves
+on board, and was waiting to complete 900 before proceeding round
+the Cape to Cuba. She had been hovering off the coast for weeks to
+complete her cargo. We sent her into Pomony. I went on board, she was
+a fine-looking ship, seven feet between decks. However, on looking down
+the fore hatchway, the stench was intolerable. Sent prize in charge of
+Lieutenant Burlton to the Mauritius.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXV
+
+ZANZIBAR--SHOOTING HIPPOPOTAMI
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1860. Aug. 18.]
+
+Arrived at Zanzibar. Having expressed a wish to see the hippopotamus
+in his native state, Speke, being aware of my weakness, kindly invited
+me to accompany him to where sport was almost a certainty. It was
+necessary to procure a dhow, on board which a party could live.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]
+
+Our proposed trip soon got wind. An unusual noise throughout Sunday
+night on board the Sultan’s yacht was accounted for in the morning by
+one Captain Mahomet informing us, which we had been well aware of, viz.
+that he had been all the night bending sails, and half the morning
+bastinadoing his crew; he stated he had received orders to convey me
+across the channel.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 21.]
+
+From this infliction I, however, excused myself, as well as from that
+of the company of the half-civilised, drunken rogue who commanded
+her. Through the kind influence of Colonel Rigby, Luddah, a Banyan,
+British subject, and head of the Customs, placed at our disposal a
+new dhow, with a captain and fourteen Arabs. Hoping to expedite their
+movements, Speke, Heneage, and myself embarked on Monday night, so as
+to start early the following morning; but at that time we were not as
+experienced in Arab movements as we have since been. It commenced
+raining soon after we got on board, and on our taking shelter below we
+found the deck overhead leaked, and the stench from the bilge water
+sickening. We got under weigh at 10 A.M.; at 5 P.M. anchored in an
+extensive bay off a village called Kesooku. About the bay were shoal
+patches of sand and several small islands with mangrove bushes, over
+the roots of which the tide flowed when up; it was on and about these
+islands that we expected to find our game.
+
+We were welcomed to the village by a Bombay Banyan Chief. Having given
+us a refreshing drink from green cocoanuts, he cleared out part of
+a store hut for our accommodation. We made up our beds outside on
+stretchers under the shade of the projecting roof.
+
+It appears that the habits of the hippopotami are to land at night for
+food, betaking themselves to the retirement of the small islands before
+break of day. Such unwieldy brutes cannot travel on shore without
+leaving marks, by which they are easily traced, and generally return to
+the water by the same paths. As they are never molested by the natives,
+we thought we might intercept them before they went to rest, and
+intended to be up at 3 o’clock, but it rained and our native servants
+neglected to call us. We went later to try for guinea-fowl, which were
+said to be plentiful and excellent eating. A covey of them was seen but
+not got at.
+
+Our next plan was to proceed to the patches of islands in the bay, so
+as to reach them before low water, about which time our experienced
+friend, Speke, considered that the hippopotami would be more likely to
+be caught napping or basking in the mud. We approached the islet with
+caution.
+
+[Illustration: _A right and left shot._]
+
+I shall not forget the first wild hippopotamus I saw: a huge ugly
+brute, standing up to his middle in water, apparently indifferent to
+our approach, until within fifty yards, when he moved leisurely towards
+some rocks where the water was deep and disappeared. On rounding the
+rocks, we opened on an extended sand-flat and observed several Sibuko,
+half in the water, with one fine fellow standing separate. To the left,
+and within forty yards of him, was a small clump of trees. As soon as
+our boat grounded, took up my position, as prearranged, on that side,
+and stalking under shelter of bushes, got pretty close, with a rest for
+my gun. Speke and Heneage had spread out to the right, so as to cut off
+his retreat that way to the sea. Within forty yards, when I thought
+they were quite ready, I fired _my first shot_. The monster seemed
+more astonished than hurt, although a stream of blood from the side of
+his neck showed where my ball had told. While he hesitated, the others
+broke away in a parallel direction to that I was moving in. They were
+close together, the head of the Hippo nearest to me being a little in
+rear of the shoulder of his companion. Had my double-barrel smooth-bore
+ready. It does not often fall to the lot of man to get right and left
+shots at a brace of hippopotami. I took the nearest; hit him just
+behind the ears, struck the spine, and brought him on his knees. The
+thick skull of the other turned my second ball.
+
+Instead of dropping, as I expected, he took a survey of the ground,
+hesitated a minute, eyed his dying chum, and made a rush to the path
+where I stood. With all due deference, I made a move out of his way,
+fell backward, gun going off.
+
+Before I was on my legs I heard Speke’s gun: Sibuko had had his
+quietus. I now seated myself on the root of a tree near where my first
+Sibuko lay; while contemplating the monster, I felt a drop of blood
+on the back of my hand, and looking up, found that I had shot the
+dark native who carried my spare ammunition, he having taken refuge
+when the Hippo No. 2 made his charge in my direction. We got the poor
+fellow down, moaning and crying; found the ball had passed through the
+fleshy part of his thigh without touching the bone. The next day he was
+taken across to the hospital. After a few days and a small donation he
+was ready and willing to be shot at again! The dead Sibuko was given
+the natives to eat: it was curious to see how cleverly they cut the
+flesh, or rather the fat, before taking the skin off, beginning at the
+backbone and cutting straight down in strips about four inches square,
+apparently to me of solid fat, and portioned according to the number
+in a greedy family. Of course I retained the head, which, with the
+other, was recovered from the natives and buried in the hot sand; after
+a few days they were taken out sweet and clean, the latter operation
+performed by white ants. They now occupy, or ought to, a place in the
+Winchester Museum.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXVI
+
+ZANZIBAR
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1860. Aug. 24.]
+
+Returned to Zanzibar; found _Brisk_ absent in search of a slaver that
+had landed a man on the island who was made prisoner by the Sultan, and
+afterwards sent on board with a request that he might be given up to
+the Spanish Consul.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
+
+_Brisk_ returned with the prisoner, who stated himself to be the
+doctor; pretended to know nothing about his movements, although he
+told a different story to the slaver’s friend, the Consul of Imperial
+France. Fresh water on the island: good, although the streams for
+watering at inconvenient distances. By proper application through
+Colonel Rigby, our obliging Consul, natives, or rather slaves, can be
+sent to bale the water to fill the casks. Fruit and vegetables were
+given for the ship’s company daily.
+
+Found the Sultan kind and obliging; he had a large stud of arabs, and
+when he found that I could ride, presented me with a couple, whose
+pedigrees, drawn up in Arabic, commenced some eighty years ago. I got
+the good Consul to explain that I had no place to put them in. A few
+days after His Highness presented me with a handsome gold-mounted
+sabre, with which I was well pleased. On my exhibiting it to my
+Secretary he admired it as much as I did, but on referring to the
+station order-book, on no account was an officer permitted to receive a
+present or presents from any foreign authority.
+
+Here was a nice mess! I went to Colonel Rigby to ask him to return the
+sword and apologise. He said such a thing was impossible; it would not
+be understood: in fact, almost made me to understand that it would be a
+_casus belli_! I had the sword wrapped in cotton and stated the case to
+the Board of Admiralty. 1860.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
+
+4 P.M.--Sailed from Zanzibar, giving the good Sultan a parting salute.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
+
+Took pilot. Stood into Port Mahé, all dangers, rocks and shoals being
+visible under a bright sun. Anchored in 10 fathoms. All large timber
+had long been cut down--underwood, the sweetest cedar.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
+
+Communicated with our prize, the _Manuela_, at anchor off Flat Island.
+Came to off the Bell Buoy, Mauritius. I was last here in the _Tweed_ in
+April 1829.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
+
+Prize arrived from Flat Island.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
+
+_Brisk_ having got on shore off the east coast in February sustained
+some damage, which rendered her docking necessary. Copper rubbed off;
+planking damaged.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]
+
+6 A.M.--Weighed and proceeded under steam round the north end of the
+Island. 3 P.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms in Mahébourg Harbour.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
+
+Slipped from mooring and steamed out of Port Louis. Came to in
+Mahébourg Harbour 1.50 P.M.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
+
+Governor visited the ship. Manned yards and saluted.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
+
+His Excellency kindly took me a two days’ trip round the island by land.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
+
+_Wasp_, 13, Commander C. Stirling, arrived. Shifted flag to her; sent
+_Brisk_ to relieve _Forte_, ordered here.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]
+
+_Forte_ arrived.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXVII
+
+_FORTE_ FLAG RE-HOISTED
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1860. Nov. 9.]
+
+Re-hoisted flag in _Forte_. Fired Royal Salute at noon, in honour of
+Prince of Wales’s birthday.
+
+[Sidenote: Mauritius, Nov. 14.]
+
+_Persian_, 12, arrived from Seychelles, and saluted flag. Commander
+Hardinge, having sustained a severe but accidental wound in the foot,
+was unfortunately rendered unfit for duty.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]
+
+French war steamer _La Somme_ arrived from Réunion, bearing the broad
+pennant of the Commodore, with whom we exchanged salutes. In afternoon
+proceeded to Tombeaux Bay. Came to off Monsieur de Courson’s sugar
+mills.
+
+[Sidenote: Tombeaux Bay, Nov. 17.]
+
+Joined by _Persian_, 12, sloop. Made arrangements for sham fight to
+come off on the 20th. _Wasp_, in dock, was found to have sustained
+considerable damage while on shore off Slave Krop Point.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 20.]
+
+Soon after daylight observed the troops, consisting of 5th and part
+of 24th Regiments, with artillery, marching down and crossing pontoon
+bridge at head of bay. These were followed by a strong party of police.
+From that time until afternoon there was one continuous string of
+natives and people of all sorts arriving from Port Louis and country
+round, taking up positions to see the fight, for which nothing could
+be better adapted than the high land about the head of Tombeaux Bay.
+At noon visitors arrived on board. After luncheon we commenced landing
+them on a commanding point out of range, but from which I could command
+by signal, assisted by a very pretty French lady.
+
+_Forte_ and _Persian_, having been swung broadside to the point of
+attack, the boats formed into two lines abreast: lighter boats landing
+storming parties, gunboats following to cover disembarkation.
+
+The point to be carried was a high mound at the head of the bay, about
+two hundred yards inland. The landing to be effected under cover of the
+ship’s guns. The enemy’s picquets were driven in, and their skirmishers
+retired. The hill was stormed and carried, supposed forts blown up.
+Enemy, having received reinforcements, endeavoured to outflank and cut
+off retreat. On the order to retire, the mound was reoccupied by the
+enemy, and pressing us with artillery on a retreat, desperate fighting
+was the result. The storming party would have been made prisoners, had
+not their re-embarkation been covered by the ships, who opened fire and
+kept the enemy in check.
+
+So ended the Battle of Tombeaux Bay, a successful exhibition which
+delighted some twenty thousand natives and residents, without an
+accident. A ball in a house kindly lent by Mr. de Courson, the Mayor,
+finished the night.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 21.]
+
+Returned to Port Louis.
+
+[Sidenote: Mahébourg, Nov. 22.]
+
+Grand ball given by Governor and Mrs. Stevenson. Weighed at daylight.
+_Persian_ in company. Came to in the harbour of Mahébourg, where I was
+kindly entertained by the Colonel and officers 5th Regiment.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]
+
+Inspected _Persian_--fine crew and in good order.
+
+Steamed out of the harbour: exchanged cheers from the rigging on
+parting company.
+
+[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Dec. 15.]
+
+2.15 A.M.--Storm coming on, ran for Simon’s Bay. Furled sails. Came
+to with both bower anchors after having brought up with 75 fathoms
+of cable ahead; ship drifted to a fresh squall; parted small bower
+cable, and, as we afterwards discovered, stock of best bower broken.
+Ship brought up by sheet and spare anchors when within half her length
+of the rocks, but held on by help of steam screw until evening, when
+gale moderated. It _can_ blow in the neighbourhood of the Cape! Found
+here _Brisk_, _Lyra_, _Hornet_, and _Enchantress_, the latter our
+prize, _Manula_, rechristened, and bought into the service for use in
+suppression of slavery on the east coast. Found also the _Pioneer_ from
+England refitting for the Zambesi expedition.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]
+
+Rather bored with continued gales, unusual at this time of year. Went
+up to Cape Town to visit my kind friends. The races were going on at
+Green Point, to which I went, attended by groom only. Among others
+found myself, without seeking him, close to His Excellency Sir George
+Grey, my late passenger in the _Forte_, surrounded by his staff.
+
+Found a letter from my clergyman friend, Eyre, dated September 30, in
+which he stated that he had some qualms of conscience about writing on
+the Sabbath, but recollecting what he had read in the Gospel for the
+day, he determined to continue.
+
+In Cape Town was Doctor Livingstone waiting for an opportunity to get
+to the Zambesi. Informed him of one in the _Pioneer_; and, like the
+sinewy-looking man that he was, he walked the whole way to Simon’s Bay.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXVIII
+
+THE CAPE COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1861. Simon’s Bay, Jan. 1.]
+
+Succeeded in getting _Sidon_ under weigh, with _Pioneer_ in tow, at 9
+A.M.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
+
+6 A.M.--Slipped moorings and steamed out of Simon’s Bay. Rounded Cape
+Point. 9.--Made sail, passing between the Bellows Rock and the Main. Up
+screw.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Forte_, Jan. 13.]
+
+It was my intention to have visited Ichaboa on way to Ascension,
+but the wind falling light for several successive days, and having
+appointed the Commodore of the West Coast to meet me at Ascension the
+middle of January, did not delay.
+
+Attention to the vast deposit of guano on Ichaboa appears to have been
+drawn by Captain Andrew Livingston in 1843; the first cargo was taken
+off by the _Ann_ in that year. Although the island is little more than
+a mile in circumference, from April 1843 to February 1845 upwards of
+200,000 tons of guano had been removed. In the month of January 1845,
+450 vessels were present, and as many as 6000 seamen and labourers at
+work. The constant presence of a man-of-war was necessary. The island
+appears to have been clean swept of guano, and the birds, seals,
+etc., driven away by February 1845. Since that, a few enterprising
+individuals have, by keeping guard there, prevented the birds from
+being disturbed, so that they resort there annually, and guano to the
+value of £30,000 is taken off and sent to the Mauritius market. This
+increase has excited the cupidity of other parties at Cape Town, who
+choose to consider it as an unfair monopoly on the part of those who
+have, at considerable expense, watched over, and, as they term it,
+cultivated the guano. While one party is prepared to defend their
+preserve, others are preparing to help themselves, and use force. It
+was to prevent bloodshed that I thought of going. The island, however,
+belongs to no one.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
+
+Daylight made the Island of Ascension. Came to at 8.30 in 10 fathoms.
+Found _Arrogant_, 47, Commodore Edmonstone, and _Mæander_, whose
+figurehead I have. No exchange of salutes, on account of its being the
+turtle season, which continues from November until June.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
+
+Inspected _Arrogant_. Clean and smart. Good at quarters, as well as at
+manning and arming boats. Fairish crew, but spoilt in appearance by
+cloth caps, now prevalent in the service.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
+
+_Arrogant_ sailed for Sierra Leone and Gambia to quell disturbance by
+King Badiboo. Inspected the “island of forbidding appearance,” without
+water or wood, and formerly regarded as an impracticable heap of ashes.
+Ascension is now in a state of improvement as to its resources, natural
+and artificial. Government buildings of stone, neat and substantial,
+consisting of store-house, hospital, a good smith’s shop, mess-room and
+barracks; but the chief interests of the island are centred in turtle.
+The first part of a tolerably good road has been made between hills of
+cinders and along plains of ashes, dust, and lava.
+
+Green Mountain is nearly in the centre of the island, 2818 feet above
+the sea; rising, as the Directory terms it, a “graceful oasis amidst
+waste and desolation”; from it you look down on some forty hills of
+cinders, each of which has in its turn contributed to the supply
+of lava and ashes; but now, with the assistance of planting and
+cultivation attracting rain, it is rapidly progressing. There appear to
+be about 2000 acres in pasture, planted, or under cultivation. Cattle,
+and occasionally horses are bred, but sheep appear to thrive best. In
+addition to seven or eight milch cows, the Government farm can boast of
+two bulls, thirty oxen, and about eleven thousand sheep.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
+
+Weighed.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
+
+Came to in Sierra Leone. Found _Arrogant_. Saluted authorities and
+landed, receiving due honours.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
+
+Arrived H.M.S. _Falcon_, under command of Lieutenant Bagge, Commander
+Arthur Fitzroy having died of fever. At this sad event I am deeply
+grieved. It was only in the Crimea that I attended the deathbed of his
+elder brother: one of a family through whose care and kindness I, as a
+midshipman, recovered from this deadly African fever.
+
+I appointed my Flag Lieutenant, Algernon C. F. Heneage, to poor Arthur
+Fitzroy’s vacancy in the _Falcon_. She was lying in the river, where
+there was nothing above the surface to be seen moving but sharks’ fins.
+The new Commander was well got up, as was his wont, even to kid gloves.
+Just as his four-oared gig was getting alongside, one of the boys
+missed his footing and disappeared. In a moment Heneage unbuckled his
+sword, dived and saved the boy. He read his commission at the capstan
+in his muddy suit--a good beginning!--and returned on board _Forte_
+to dine with his old Chief. For this gallant deed the Humane Society
+awarded Heneage a medal.
+
+It was now my painful duty to write the following official letter:--
+
+                                           “FORTE,” AT SIERRA LEONE,
+                                              _February 11, 1861_.
+
+  To the Secretary of the Admiralty.
+
+  SIR--I have the honour to inform you, for the information of My Lords
+  Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I have received my appointment
+  to the South East Coast of America; but, as I did not apply for that
+  command, I beg most respectfully to request their Lordships will be
+  pleased to inform me of their reason for removing me from the Cape of
+  Good Hope and West Coast of Africa to an inferior command.--I have
+  the honour to be, sir, your obedient servant,
+
+                                         (Signed) HENRY KEPPEL,
+                                                       Rear-Admiral.
+
+[Sidenote: Sierra Leone.]
+
+Appointed Lieutenant Wilkinson Acting Commander, and Mr. Turner, Flag
+Lieutenant. The expedition had started to punish the King of Badiboo,
+who, when called on to pay a fine of bullocks for having robbed British
+merchants, sent in reply to Governor D’Arcy at Bathurst, he would fight
+him, and if he was not assisted by the French, thrash him to boot!
+Colonel Hill, Governor of Sierra Leone, having sent all his troops, was
+anxious for the assistance of the Navy.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
+
+Embarked the Governor under salute and manned yards. Weighed for the
+Gambia, _Arrogant_ and _Falcon_ having preceded.
+
+[Sidenote: Gambia, Feb. 16.]
+
+Nearing the land, signalman reported masts of a ship at anchor to the
+N.W. Steered towards her. On getting within distance, she signalled,
+“You are standing into danger.” This was the _Arrogant_, my old friend
+Edmonstone of the Naval College, the cleverest fellow there, who
+passed out six months before his allotted two years: no better fellow,
+but chance had made me his senior. My reply was, “Weigh immediately and
+follow me.” Steamed into the Gambia, _Arrogant_ in company. Came to in
+15 fathoms off Bathurst.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]
+
+1 P.M.--_Arrogant_ proceeded up the river to join the expedition which
+left Bathurst on Friday. 4 P.M.--_Falcon_ arrived, but being out of
+coal came to. At 4.30 P.M., _Forte’s_ services not being required,
+steamed out of the river.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
+
+Arrived at Sierra Leone. Having taken in 135 tons of coal, steamed out.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
+
+4 A.M.--Tornado came off, cool and refreshing. Made sail after the
+strength had passed. Departed this life, Mr. Keating, boatswain, a
+former shipmate in _Dido_. Poor fellow, he leaves a wife and three
+young children.
+
+[Sidenote: Accra, Mar. 3.]
+
+3 P.M.--Came to off Accra; landed in the evening.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]
+
+11 A.M.--Re-embarked under salute from the fort. 9.30 P.M.--Weighed.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]
+
+1.30 P.M.--Came to in 7 fathoms off a village called Jellacoffy, two
+miles to the eastward of Cape St. Paul, a good place for stock and
+fruit. 4.30 P.M.--Weighed.
+
+[Sidenote: Fernando Po, Mar. 10.]
+
+Came to in a cove to the westward of Cockburn Cove, Fernando Po. Found
+_Bloodhound_, 3, paddle wheel, steam vessel, Lieutenant Commander
+Francis W. Bennett. Saluted Spanish flag and returned salute of Spanish
+brig.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
+
+8 A.M.--Arrived _Alecto_, Commander Raby, bringing our December mail.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
+
+No Protestant clergyman being allowed to do duty on shore, two
+marriages among the coloured population were solemnized on board
+by Captain Turnour. There are upwards of 1000 coloured people,
+Protestants, in and about the town, who are not allowed to assemble
+together in each other’s houses to pray, nor is a school allowed for
+the education of their children. Such is Spanish law in A.D. 1861!
+Spanish Governor Don José de la Gandara visited the ship: a superior
+and intelligent-looking man.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
+
+11.30 A.M.--Weighed; stood to southward down west coast of the island.
+
+[Sidenote: St. Thomas, Mar. 16.]
+
+7.30 A.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms, Island of St. Thomas, Fort St.
+Sebastian N.N.W. 3/4 mile. I anchored here, just twenty-three years
+ago, in the _Childers_ on my way to Ascension and England (1838).
+Found everybody on shore anything but civil; slavers calling are
+more profitable than Her Majesty’s ships. Several canoes, apparently
+fishing, started off to sea on our arrival and were not seen to return.
+After we got under weigh at 8 P.M. observed port-fires and other night
+signals in different directions.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
+
+1 P.M.--Chased and came up with a brig, the _Falmouth_ of New York.
+This vessel had been captured only a few months ago by one of the U.S.
+cruisers _Portsmouth_, and sent to New York to be sold for the benefit
+of the captors.
+
+[Sidenote: St. Paul de Loanda, Mar. 21.]
+
+6 A.M.--Exchanged salutes with the _Archer_, 8; came to in 5
+fathoms as near the coal depot as we could. Found _Wrangler_, also
+an old acquaintance at Madeira, Flag-Officer Inman, in the U.S.
+_Constellation_; exchanged salutes and fraternized considerably. Found
+the American iron coaling launches most useful. Native labour idle and
+next to useless.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
+
+Midnight, weighed.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
+
+Came to in Little Fish Bay. Obtained fresh beef and live bullocks,
+yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and cabbages. English potatoes
+plentiful.
+
+[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope, April 21.]
+
+Stood into False Bay; took moorings in Simon’s Bay. Found here _Brisk_,
+_Gorgon_, and _Persian_.
+
+[Sidenote: April 22.]
+
+Commenced coaling and otherwise preparing for our relief.
+
+[Sidenote: April 24.]
+
+8 P.M.--_Narcissus_ arrived with flag of Sir Baldwin Walker to relieve
+me. Appointed to the Brazilian command.
+
+[Sidenote: April 25.]
+
+Salutes exchanged.
+
+[Sidenote: April 29.]
+
+Gave up the Command in Chief of the Cape of Good Hope and West African
+station to Sir Baldwin Walker. At 8.30 P.M. steamed out of Simon’s Bay
+to go to Table Bay for provisions, ships and transports from China
+having cleared out the stores.
+
+[Sidenote: May 3.]
+
+10 A.M.--Steamed out of Table Bay against a heavy swell.
+
+[Sidenote: May 16.]
+
+6.40 P.M.--Came to at Ascension. Found here _Mæander_, _Tortoise_, and
+_Buffalo_.
+
+[Sidenote: Ascension, May 17.]
+
+Took in all the coal we could get by 8 P.M. Sailed next morning.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXIX
+
+RETURN TO ENGLAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1861. May 28.]
+
+9 P.M.--Came to in Rio Harbour. Found _Leopard_, with flag of
+Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, K.C.B., waiting to be relieved.
+Also the old _Madagascar_, Captain White; _Curlew_, Captain Shaw;
+_Spy_, Lieutenant Tabuteau; and _Pylades_, Captain de Courcy, on his
+way home from the Pacific. Found also notice from their Lordships of
+their intention to supersede me with Rear-Admiral Warren, whom I might
+expect in the _Emerald_, to which ship I was to transfer my flag and
+return to England.
+
+This step was taken by their Lordships in reply to a request I had
+made in a private letter to the First Lord to be allowed to return to
+England in the _Forte_, that inquiry might be made into my conduct.
+Moreover, in reply to an official application I had made most
+respectfully, requesting their Lordships would be good enough to state
+reasons for having removed me from the Cape to an inferior command,
+I received an answer that their Lordships “were not in the habit of
+giving any reasons for the orders they may think proper to give.”
+
+[Sidenote: June 16.]
+
+Arrived _Emerald_, with flag of Rear-Admiral Warren; exchanged salutes.
+Transferred my flag to the _Emerald_ commanded by my gallant friend
+Captain Arthur Cumming. Off this coast on Sept. 6, 1843, to the
+southward, he did as smart a thing as any sailor could wish. He was a
+lieutenant in charge of a twelve-oared cutter, searching for slavers.
+He disguised himself, his crew and his boat, as fishermen, painting the
+cutter after Brazilian fashion. A strange, rakish-looking brig nearing,
+Cumming steered towards her as if wishing to sell fish. Without a word
+he was on board, shot the helmsman, put the slaver up in the wind, to
+the consternation of her crew. His own men joined him. It was indeed a
+brilliant feat!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+By the mail received the following press cutting--from what paper I
+know not, nor from whom I received it; but so struck am I by its truth
+and justice, it is herewith inserted:--
+
+  THE KEPPEL SCANDAL
+
+  The report to which we gave currency last week, relative to the
+  return of Sir Henry Keppel, has since been confirmed; and we
+  understand another flag officer has been nominated successor to
+  Sir Stephen Lushington on the Brazil Station. On the return of the
+  gallant Admiral, the scandal with which his name has been associated
+  will be fully investigated, and the danger of acting upon an _ex
+  parte_ statement will probably receive another proof. Had Sir Henry
+  Keppel tamely submitted to the sentence of removal from the Cape
+  Station he would have been pleading guilty to a charge of a serious
+  nature, and we give him full credit, therefore, for having declined
+  to accept the South American command under such circumstances. This
+  treatment of a British flag officer shows to what a miserable ebb
+  the Navy has fallen. Had a general officer been complained of by a
+  Colonial Government he would not have been summarily dismissed or
+  transferred to another command unheard or untried. But, alas! the
+  Navy has no _Head_, able or willing to maintain the independence
+  of its officers. Any paltry complaint against a naval officer,
+  when urged by a civilian, or coming from the Horse Guards or Home
+  Office, assumes a degree of importance which it takes a deal of
+  correspondence and explanations to lessen or set aside. The naval
+  officer is often condemned on the shallowest of pretexts, and has no
+  Court of Appeal. With respect to the alleged scene or scenes on board
+  the _Forte_, we have heard so many different versions that we decline
+  to offer any decided opinion; but we contend on behalf of the service
+  for that measure of justice which is never denied to the veriest
+  criminal--a fair and full trial before condemnation. It may turn out
+  that Sir George Grey acted with unbecoming and causeless impetuosity,
+  and that a British Admiral was moved from a valuable appointment at
+  the request of the Home Secretary, because an irascible civilian
+  Governor chose to pick a quarrel. We demand on the part of the Navy
+  fair play. We ask no more, and we are satisfied that if it is not
+  freely accorded by the Board of Admiralty, there are champions of
+  justice enough in the House of Commons to take up the cudgels.
+
+[Sidenote: June 26.]
+
+H.M. Minister, Mr. Christie, embarked on board _Emerald_. Sunset,
+resigned command of South American station to Warren, and shifted flag
+to _Emerald_, embarking with suite at same time. Was informed that
+during the night between fifty and sixty of the _Forte’s_ crew deserted.
+
+[Sidenote: June 27.]
+
+10 P.M.--Weighed. Although at that late hour, the crew of _Forte_
+voluntarily waited up to greet their old Admiral and Captain with a
+succession of parting cheers. Blue lights were burned as we steamed
+round and stood out of Rio Harbour. Thirty-seven years since I first
+entered it!
+
+[Sidenote: July 2.]
+
+7 A.M.--Came to off St. Salvador in the famous Bahia Bay. Found
+_Curlew_. Exchanged salutes with Brazilian flag. Noon, Royal salute in
+commemoration of Brazilian independence.
+
+[Sidenote: July 3.]
+
+Ship visited by President to see our Minister and Armstrong guns.
+
+[Sidenote: July 4.]
+
+Weighed and steamed out of Bahia.
+
+[Sidenote: July 11.]
+
+Crossed the Equator for the last time!
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
+
+Made the Eddystone Lighthouse.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]
+
+After passing Cowes, furled sails, squared yards, rounded to, manned
+yards, and saluted Royal standard. Made sail, came to at Spithead.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
+
+Struck flag. Visited friend, George Gray, now Rear-Admiral
+Superintendent of the Dockyard. After luncheon, accompanied him towards
+the King’s Stairs, where he expected the Prince Consort to embark for
+Osborne, H.R.H. having been to inspect works in progress at Portsdown.
+
+[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Aug. 6.]
+
+On the Prince’s appearing in sight, I retired; however, His Royal
+Highness having spotted me, came direct and gave me a kind and cordial
+“welcome back.” I was much pleased and gratified at this--but still
+sore at the silence preserved at the Admiralty as to the cause of my
+removal from the Cape Station. Governor Sir George Grey had sent a
+message that “if I did not (on our second leaving Rio for the Cape)
+write home what had occurred, he would not.”
+
+Having since found out how little regard he had for speaking the truth,
+I believed that he had access by writing to some person near the Court,
+which would account for the mystery at the Admiralty. The kindness of
+the Prince Consort somewhat dispelled this idea. I proceeded to London.
+My brother-in-law, clever and truest friend, was no more! I tried to
+forget my Service troubles, and the notice I more than once received
+that I need not expect further employment. Sir Frederick Grey, First
+Sea Lord, was then the only person who, if not deceived, knew what had
+occurred on board the _Forte_.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. to Sept.]
+
+On 5th December 1860, the First Lord wrote me a private letter,
+which I only received after my arrival in England stating, “Upon
+consideration, he thought it expedient to transfer me to another
+station.” A more just and honourable man than the Duke of Somerset
+there could not be. By whom had His Grace been misled? There are now
+living proofs in London of what did occur! Sir George Grey and myself
+are both old men, living within an hour’s walk. We must shortly be
+called to our full account.
+
+_P.S._--Poor fellow! since writing the above I find that Sir George
+Grey (born _Gray_) rests under the same roof as Nelson and Wellington!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXX
+
+SHORE TIME
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1861. Oct.]
+
+Although surrounded by friends, England to me was no longer the same
+happy place. I felt aggrieved and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook
+to share my troubles.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
+
+The marriage ceremony was performed by her brother Richard, assisted by
+the Rev. Hon. Robert Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov.]
+
+We went abroad, travelled through France and Italy: remained some time
+in Florence, met many kind friends, visited the churches and shops
+without the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions my good wife
+invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to display my French, usually
+answered, “Toujours près.”
+
+[Sidenote: Paris, Dec. 14.]
+
+The good Prince Consort departed this life. Her poor Majesty! Universal
+grief!
+
+[Sidenote: 1862. Jan. 10.]
+
+Returned to England. We retook possession of our cottage at
+Bishopstoke, although I had a kind and good tenant in Sir John Bayley,
+owner of the _Nymph_, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton; he
+kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements were being made, we took
+lodgings in Sloane Street, my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]
+
+Son Colin was born, an event which took off the rough edge of
+discontent. The gallant Clyde stood godfather. Am not going to bore
+my readers with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I still
+had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting; also, being a light
+weight, had frequent mounts with hounds.
+
+[Sidenote: 1863. Jan. 1.]
+
+Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands, Isle of Wight. Her
+phaeton was overturned, but H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon.
+Mrs. Bruce was in attendance.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
+
+The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first time in the House of
+Lords. Navy much exercised about the building of ironclads.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
+
+Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over a thousand
+presentations, besides seventeen hundred who attended. Amongst other
+old shipmates, met Prince Victor of Hohenlohe.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
+
+This was indeed a happy and exciting day for London. The arrival and
+procession through the city and streets by the most lovely Princess
+that ever visited this country. The excitement and fatigue must have
+been great, but Her Royal Highness allowed no one to see it.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]
+
+Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Windsor.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as was my brother-in-law,
+Sir Joseph Hawley; he had engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused
+myself at Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down at the
+cottage, Bishopstoke.
+
+[Sidenote: April 20.]
+
+My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had been for some time in delicate
+health. In 1856 I took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was
+buried at Quidenham.
+
+[Sidenote: May 18.]
+
+At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C. Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes
+valued at £7200.
+
+[Sidenote: May 22.]
+
+Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.”
+
+[Sidenote: June 4.]
+
+Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First appearance of Prince and
+Princess of Wales. Cup won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.”
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]
+
+My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged seventy-one.... Attended
+his funeral on 21st.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
+
+The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess of Wales, arrived in
+England.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Sidenote: Dec.]
+
+The River Itchen running between my kitchen and flower-garden, was
+full of trout, and there was a small summer-house through which I
+could conduct a running stream from the river. I wrote to Mr. Buckland
+to help me in breeding trout. In the upper part of the summer-house
+I had a tank, which could be renovated and a small stream of water
+introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,--these overflowed
+into each other. It was great fun watching the tiny things come to life
+and gradually increase in size, until it was time to put them into the
+river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose property the Itchen ran,
+took a great interest in the experiment. From my little preserve on the
+Itchen, Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with trout, which
+has proved very successful.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
+
+Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray. He had, some years
+before, proposed me as a member of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant
+gathering of Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in Watt’s
+Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up to the end of its days my
+name was up on the walls of the Club as “absent on special business.”...
+
+[Sidenote: 1864. Jan. 8.]
+
+Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war with Prussia; offered my
+services. But the rank of Vice-Admiral interfered.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
+
+Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended by General Knollys
+and Colonel Keppel.
+
+[Sidenote: Apr. 3.]
+
+Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his full uniform: red
+shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick. He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron
+pigs notoriety over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three weeks’
+visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht _Undine_ for Caprera.
+
+[Sidenote: June 20.]
+
+Capture of _Alabama_ by Federal cruiser _Kearsage_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Three millions afterwards paid by England! So much for arbitration!
+
+[Sidenote: July 6.]
+
+Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good deal on board Tom
+Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry) yacht the _Arrow_, R.Y.S.; at that
+period had not been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht, the
+_Freak_, but nothing could pass _Arrow_. Being an honorary member of
+the Royal Yacht Squadron, consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing
+how sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle was our host’s
+favourite anchorage.
+
+[Sidenote: Guernsey, July 7.]
+
+Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a favourite anchorage.
+Market well supplied with fruit and vegetables, but you should not
+spoil your appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel.
+
+[Sidenote: July 8.]
+
+Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After breakfast joined by
+Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert. We started in hopes of engaging one
+Lanourie, a celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was already
+engaged by Mr. Petre of the _Osprey_. Arrived _Eugenie_, R.Y.S.; joined
+by Fred Delmé Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and Colonel
+Denny.
+
+[Sidenote: _Arrow_ yacht, July 9.]
+
+On the highest part in the centre of the town is a granite tower
+erected in memory of Her Majesty’s visit. After a climb up a spiral
+staircase, we obtained a view of the island. The tide being out, the
+numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like pinnacles from the
+deep; makes one feel thankful one is not the owner of a yacht. During
+the night we were joined by the _Firefly_, Sir H. Oglander. A strong
+north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne has a party at Cranberry,
+and I am due at home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on vote of
+censure. The position of Federal troops in Virginia critical.
+
+[Sidenote: July 10.]
+
+By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas Whichcote on board his
+_Enchantress_.
+
+[Sidenote: July 11.]
+
+Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke, saw wife and kid
+(Colin), returned to _Enchantress_, and off with first of south-wester
+to the eastward. Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in _Eugenie_ had got
+start, but we caught her up this side of Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
+
+Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month of my journal and
+left me neither on shore nor afloat.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]
+
+Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance. Detained a couple of hours
+for want of water. Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel
+shortly after midnight.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]
+
+_Eugenie_ brought up outside the bar. Having worked up to Helvets Maas,
+changed pilot and hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had to
+wait our turn. _Eugenie_ rejoined; got through first tack. Taken in tow
+by horses, to me a novel mode of travelling. Canal about six miles in
+length. Secured inside the lock.
+
+On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares, wild duck, and
+plover; cattle, carts and carriages, latter primitive in appearance. At
+noon anchored off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the Church
+Tower, magnificent and extensive view. Inside the church are two good
+sculptures of Admirals de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and
+Conellan dined with us.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]
+
+[Sidenote: The Hague.]
+
+Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum and Picture Gallery.
+Lunched at a Café by the way, particularly clean. We then drove to
+the King’s Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by some of
+the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At the Palace we were civilly
+received by the servants. Although the Queen was residing in it, we
+were shown over the charming country residence. On our preparing to
+leave, a footman suggested writing our names in a book lying open on a
+side-table. I had no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat.
+
+We had just turned into the road from the outer gate, when a messenger
+came running with Her Majesty’s commands for my return, when I was sent
+for, and received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique Mathilde at
+the door of the ante-room, and desired to follow her into a charming
+boudoir. After a few kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her
+Majesty hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction, and other
+kind expressions. I mentioned that I had had the honour of being a
+Groom-in-Waiting to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss
+the royal hand on departing: my friends having kindly waited in the
+carriage, enjoying the fragrant weed.
+
+On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more curious collection of
+pretty things I had never seen. Returned by train, and so on board the
+pretty and beautifully clean _Enchantress_, having seen a good deal,
+and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception I had received. The
+_Eugenies_ came to dine.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 16.]
+
+In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came on board and agreed to
+accompany us to Amsterdam.
+
+[Sidenote: Amsterdam, Aug. 17.]
+
+By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station at Amsterdam to the
+Palace. We first mounted the belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee
+and surrounding country. We came in for a tune on the bells, as well as
+the striking the hour of noon on the more ponderous one. The Palace is
+as dismal and as uninteresting a building as one could well go through.
+Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken from their greatest enemy
+are suspended in the Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers
+of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his ship up, with
+himself and crew, after getting on shore, when boarded by the Belgians
+in 1831.
+
+We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged building, but
+containing some good pictures. Amsterdam, with its trade and canal
+streets, is very like Rotterdam. At 5 P.M. we returned by a train
+_viâ_ Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this great grazing,
+cattle-supporting country, that unless I had been told I should have
+thought we were returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had
+luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much, although things
+were clean. Got on board _Enchantress_ a little after seven.
+
+[Sidenote: Rotterdam, Aug. 18.]
+
+After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and examined a small galliot
+pleasure-boat, of about eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to
+which I had taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a vessel
+could be, the middle part decked over. Mast and sails fitted, and for
+stability as safe as a church. Should like to have her in the Itchen,
+off Bishopstoke. Weather bad.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
+
+Weighed at 11 A.M. Wind just sufficient to allow us, with ebb tide, to
+fetch down, which we did cleverly in one hour. Same distance when going
+up taking us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at Nieuwe
+Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon. Process of getting through
+the lock gates slow. We heard of a large ship coming through yesterday,
+requiring forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 P.M. we were through the
+gates, and, with the assistance of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the
+three horses at the tow rope in a jog-trot. _Eugenie_ having had half
+an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without the encumbrance
+of horses, and was, partly owing to the haze, out of sight ahead. The
+canal is crossed by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing
+between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In meeting vessels it
+is customary, or rather it is the printed law, to keep to the right
+or starboard side. At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was
+observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel, as if she did
+not intend to give way an inch to, what she most likely considered us,
+the weaker vessel; in vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one
+might have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however, we had
+all but squeezed through, when the _Leveret_, of Whitby, at last, and
+when too late, put her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very
+rudely against _Enchantress’s_ bow, by which she lost a whisker and had
+her cathead and upper works considerably damaged; to say nothing of the
+foresail, which was rent in twain.
+
+The nimble _Leveret_ did not escape without a scratch, inasmuch as
+_Enchantress’s_ anchor having hooked the _Leveret’s_ main rigging,
+tore away three of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works fore
+and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold on by, tumbled into
+the water and was soon weighed, catted, and fished. While we proceeded
+on our way, the collier was observed to rush frantically into the
+rushes on the wrong bank of the river.
+
+At 4 P.M. we brought up at Helviotsluys end of the canal. All
+appearances of a gale of wind, although in the right direction, we are
+better inside the canal.
+
+[Sidenote: Helviotsluys, Aug. 21.]
+
+Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers to eastward the sea
+must go down a bit. Visit from the _Eugenies_ or Irish Brigade, who
+likewise had been in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not
+intending the lubberly _Leveret_ to escape the punishment due, sent
+Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam by steamer to lay the case
+before Her Majesty’s Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may
+detain us another day, as the master cannot be back before to-morrow.
+Landed and visited the town, which is entered by a drawbridge, and
+surrounded by a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no
+guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one of the bastions. In
+the centre of the town was an old 50-gun frigate, for the training of
+youths for their navy. In the evening the _Eugenies_ came on board and
+we had a rubber.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]
+
+_Eugenie_ got through the gates at an early hour, but brought up
+outside. Gale over, glass rising, but no easterly wind. A young
+Dutchman, probably an attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of
+a letter from the master of the _Leveret_, the purport of which was
+that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages as soon as his defects
+were made good. Tom Whichcote, having read the document, tore it up
+and threw it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell Mr. Clark
+(the master of the _Leveret_) to go to a hot place. The scribe having
+remarked that Sir Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business,
+retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on board and conducted
+us through the gates--an operation we could have done as well. Came to
+outside preparatory to a start in the morning.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
+
+Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind hanging to W.S.W. Message from
+the Irish Brigade proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to
+Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed. Landed sea pilot and
+tried for a river one; only one in store, so settled to wait. At 9 A.M.
+observed _Eugenie_ working down for the sea. However, Tom Whichcote was
+not to be influenced into again changing his mind; having got on board
+a river pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between certain
+black and white buoys.
+
+After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker, the tide having
+fallen, and the channel narrow and wind in our faces, we came to.
+Observed sundry seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying sand
+left by the falling tide. _Eugenie_ and ourselves no longer in company,
+and as their manœuvring scented somewhat of the humbug it was not to be
+regretted. Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.--wonder whether
+I shall ever be so far _East_ again.
+
+These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted with shoals and dangers,
+do not understand the handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner.
+They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of the length of
+time they hold their way; consequently, instead of merely pointing out
+to the captain of the vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid,
+took to working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud bank. The
+second time she was only got off by a rising tide. Much time was lost,
+and we brought up for the night earlier than we otherwise should.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
+
+Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind. Haywood, the master,
+appeared to have had enough of narrow channels and mud banks, so took
+the Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and we stood on to
+Brouwershaven, where we came to at 9 A.M. to wait tide, change pilot
+for a deep-sea one, and obtain provisions. This being the main channel
+for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we found several French,
+American, and Dutch.
+
+Water being low as we came down, the banks were covered with various
+birds. Two of the crew landed in the night and had got within twenty
+yards of a flock of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected
+to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to go off, so the
+ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned with a regular old salt as sea pilot;
+not much to be done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper, dated
+Friday last, was in the possession of one of the American skippers,
+with most likely news from the States.
+
+Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked out cleverly; twelve miles
+before we were clear of the outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our
+departure from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A refreshing breeze,
+but rising sea. Name it not, but at four, dinner-time, my old inside
+revolted. I felt so sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing
+dinner. Made a second attempt at supper-time with same result. By 11.30
+made Lowestoft Light.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
+
+At noon we were off the North Foreland. Dirty weather; we wisely came
+to in Margate Roads. Glass falling; westerly gale.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
+
+Gale continuing. Got _Daily Telegraph_ from a stranger, but neither he
+nor three others could tell what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last
+week at York!
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
+
+Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot getting over a stone wall
+near Box, Bath.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct.]
+
+It was about this time that my kind friends at Singapore realised the
+position in which I was placed. Now that the subject of the transfer of
+the Straits Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was under
+the consideration of the Government, I think my friends were almost
+unanimous in wishing that I should be appointed Governor of the Straits
+Settlements.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXI
+
+COUNTRY HOUSE VISITS
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1865. Jan. 2.]
+
+Re-established myself at Bishopstoke. Prepared for hunting and jobbed
+horses.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
+
+With the Hambledon meet, West End; found in Allington Wood. Sharp but
+short run, the greater part to myself.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
+
+Rode “Balloon” with the Hursley meet, Farlay Down; found two foxes. A
+long day, and no run. Willie Standish driving me home from Hursley.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, Jan. 5.]
+
+Letter from Knollys with kind invitation to Sandringham for Saturday
+next till Thursday following. By steamer to Hythe; shot with Charlie
+Scott, and put up at Beaulieu. Everything in the rough, but so
+comfortable. Shooting not much. Simpson, Clinton, and Morrit. Posted
+to station, and by rail to London. Put up at Bristol Hotel, Cockspur
+Street.
+
+[Sidenote: Sandringham, Saturday, Jan. 7.]
+
+By 10.57 train from Shoreditch. Arrived at Dersingham 3.20; carriage to
+meet us. Prince most kind. Dinner, whist, loo, etc.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, Jan. 8.]
+
+Party here--Woodward, the librarian from Windsor; Frederick Leighton,
+artist; George Grey and Lady Morton in waiting; Miss Knollys, etc.;
+Lord Hamilton. To morning church. The Prince gave me a gold pin. The
+young Prince’s birthday: one year old, fine little fellow. Walked to
+see Brereton.
+
+[Sidenote: Sandringham, Jan. 9.]
+
+George Grey and I to meet Villebois hounds--H. Seymour, Mrs. Dugdale
+Astley, Hammonds, etc. No scent, back early. Prince and self planted
+first apple and pear trees in new kitchen garden. Duchess of Cambridge
+arrived, attended by Lady Somerset and Purvis, also Lord Harris and
+Helps.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
+
+We went, some nine guns, partridge-shooting, with over thirty beaters
+to drive. The wind high, and birds fast for me. Great function was
+the hot luncheon in a barn. Sat next the Princess at dinner: the most
+charming of all Princesses.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]
+
+Hounds met near. A large party from Sandringham, Lord Harris, P.
+Feilding, and self being mounted as well as the staff, Princess driving
+Duchess of Cambridge. Mrs. Dugdale Astley, Mrs. Villebois, and others
+out. Fox killed; bad scent.
+
+[Sidenote: Dewlish, Jan. 12.]
+
+Lord Harris and self took leave of their kind Royal Highnesses. At Lynn
+station joined by Lord George Bentinck. In London by 3.50. Had time for
+chop at club. By train to Dorchester. Midnight before I got to Dewlish,
+Field-Marshal Sir J. Michel, G.C.B.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 13.]
+
+Owing to Lord Ilchester’s death our visit to Minterne postponed. Horses
+had, however, arrived there. Large party in house, Radcliffe’s hounds
+meeting near. Rode “Canteen.” Dry, cold, snow on ground; bad scent.
+Lost first fox; short run with second.
+
+[Sidenote: Dewlish, Jan. 15.]
+
+To morning service. In the clergyman found an old friend at the Cape in
+1828. He then in army, son of old Blair who kept the hounds.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]
+
+To a near meet with Radcliffe’s hounds. Michel, his daughter Rachel,
+very pretty, and Miss Kelyar, also pretty, with us. Two scrambling
+races; one fox killed, another to a drain. Much taken out of “Balloon.”
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]
+
+With Lady Michel to Dorchester. Train to Poole. Bus to Bournemouth to
+look after quarters on Colin’s account. Fanny Albemarle and P. Cust
+kind and obliging. Took lodgings and returned to dine.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
+
+Was to have hunted with Digby, Vale of White Horse. Fancied frost too
+sharp.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]
+
+Although a sharp frost, went out with Michel to meet Radcliffe’s
+hounds. Heard that the Vale had had a good run yesterday! Have greatly
+enjoyed visit to Dewlish, so kind and good to everybody.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
+
+As there was no Minterne visit, horses had to return to Bishopstoke.
+Rode one of them to Dorchester station, wife and Colin following, where
+I had taken lodgings.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
+
+Found niece Augusta North here with her children. Dined with P. Cust
+and Fanny Albemarle, meeting Tom Pasley, Lord Winchilsea with pretty
+wife, late F. Rice, Cust’s son-in-law and daughter, the Kennedys, a Mr.
+Hay and wife: agreeable party.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
+
+Bitter cold; church reported High Pusey. Let wife go alone.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
+
+By rail to Bishopstoke; cottage snug and comfortable, but dull without
+the wife and kid.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]
+
+Snow, and barometer falling. Dined with the Dean. Felt my way home with
+a bull’s-eye lantern--pelting rain!
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
+
+Preferred walking to station to having horse roughed. Train to
+Christchurch. Bus to Bournemouth.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 30.]
+
+By bus to Christchurch and train to Bishopstoke. George Deane called
+with invite for me to shoot with Chamberlayne.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
+
+Wife and Colin came by 3 P.M., looking all the better, and most
+welcome, as I had enough of being alone.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 3.]
+
+This morning’s post brought further information with regard to the
+Straits Settlements.
+
+At 2.40 telegram from Prince of Wales, stating that they would be
+passing at 3, and proposing we should bring our boy to the station to
+meet their Royal Highnesses. Obeyed command and enjoyed a too short
+interview.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]
+
+Meet of Hambledon at Marwell; wife and Colin there. Killed one fox,
+and a fast but short run after another. Henry West arrived by train to
+dinner. Atkins sent us some excellent snipe.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
+
+H. West and I to morning church. Sister Caroline staying at Rectory:
+there since Thursday. Visit from Standish, bringing Harry Stephenson
+from the _Bombay_.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
+
+Willie Standish having given Henry a mount, meet at Crab Wood; we drove
+to Hursley--best run of the season. Lamed “Balloon” by falling into
+a road--a drift of snow tripping him on landing,--a badly-cut knee.
+Walked to Winchester; horse from Tubbs; led “Balloon” home.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]
+
+Meet at Hambledon at George Deane’s. Carried Colin up to see meet.
+Rode “Canteen,” sending Dawson on Tubbs’ mare to Cams. Dennison from
+Portsmouth came in for cherry brandy.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 9.]
+
+Vet. Retford to see horses; mare still stiff and lame; “Balloon,” ugly
+wound, but doing well.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]
+
+Repeated visit to Bishopstoke; all well at home, but felt that I had no
+business to absent myself on my selfish amusement of hunting.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
+
+By train to Gosport. On board _Victory_. Court-martial on loss of
+_Bombay_. No end of friends. Visited young Garnier at Mrs. Knight’s
+school. Lunched with Fred and Mrs. Hutton. At Cams; found Elliot Yorkes.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
+
+Frost and no hunting.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]
+
+H. Delmé with Pat Blake and Elliot Yorke to see Fred Radcliffe and his
+“Fair Rosamond” at Gosport.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
+
+Sold “Canteen” to W. C. Alexander for £150. Sent to Tubbs for a
+mount. Meet at Warmford. Breakfast with Eccles, having picked up
+Chapman and George Deane. Tubbs’ brute, a gray, fell with me into a
+lane; difficulty in getting home; a talk when there; got letters from
+Alexander returning “Canteen” for a whistler; don’t believe it, having
+only lately bought him of F. Delmé Radcliffe, for more than I could
+well afford.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]
+
+Glad to have secured house in London. Letter from Alexander, who is
+a gentleman, taking my word in preference to the Vet.’s; sent me a
+cheque for £150, which I returned. Captain Grimston offered me £30 for
+“Balloon,” which I declined.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]
+
+“Canteen” returned this morning. Standish called, kindly offering to
+take care of “Balloon” until sold, which I accepted. He also took Dick
+King and the mare.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]
+
+Found wife and Colin at Leinster Gardens. Lunched 15 Cadogan Place.
+Called on Miss Burdett-Coutts and Rajah Brooke, also on Albemarle, his
+wife and Charteris.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 7.]
+
+Navy Club dinner; Mundy in chair. Rajah Brooke guest; about thirty
+present. Walked with Rajah to call on Miss Burdett-Coutts.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
+
+Moved into No. 40 Connaught Square.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]
+
+Declined a mount kindly offered by Henry West with the old Berkeley:
+great temptation though! Dined with Henry Eyre in Berkeley Square,
+meeting Le Marchant, Dacres, and others.
+
+[Sidenote: London, Mar. 13.]
+
+At club found letter--W. Standish’s cheque for £35 for “Balloon.” Good
+beast in good hands. Made calls on Lord Palmerston and Admiral Rous.
+Declined Lord Campbell’s kind offer of house room.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
+
+Ballot at club among about thirty candidates. Bowyear elected. Dined
+with Thorolds; meeting pleasant; party as usual.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
+
+Governorship of Singapore engrossing my thoughts. Went to Houses of
+Parliament: introduced to W. H. Read’s friend Clerke Seymour.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]
+
+Saw Duke of Somerset’s secretary; intimated to him to communicate that
+when applied to by Cardwell His Grace should not throw cold water on my
+appointment. Hope I may get it.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
+
+Saw Blackwood at Colonial Office; talk about Straits Settlements; don’t
+think I shall get it.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
+
+Major Lord D’Arcy Osborn rather a fancy for “Canteen,” although not
+for his price, £75. Made sundry calls. Sir George Seymour ill in bed.
+Letter from Lord D’Arcy Osborn, offering £75 for “Canteen,” and to call
+at my club on the morrow.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]
+
+Lord D’Arcy and brother came to club and agreed to take my horse.
+Dinner at Navy Club, Shrewsbury in the chair. Afterwards to Pratt’s.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]
+
+Attended levée.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]
+
+Called on and had a chat with Rokeby. Dined with sister Mary, going
+afterwards to wandering minstrels at Lord Gerald Fitzgerald’s.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Kept journal irregularly at this time.
+
+[Sidenote: May 4.]
+
+My sweet May born this day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Sidenote: June 27.]
+
+Death of Mrs. Selwyn prevented Tom Whichcote coming to us for the
+Bibury and Stockbridge Races. Edward Russell and George Fitzroy came,
+but no races for poor E. R. The wife not strong, but she appeared at
+dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: June 28.]
+
+George Fitzroy and I to Romsey: shunted there for an hour, but in time
+for the first race. Bibury Day, and broiling hot.
+
+[Sidenote: June 29.]
+
+Got on with less delay at Romsey. The usual Stockbridge race weather.
+Heavy rain. Picked up Henry Fitzroy and brought him back to dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: June 30.]
+
+Friend Edward Russell took his departure--good fellow. George Fitzroy
+and I to races; did no good. Henry went home from the course.
+
+[Sidenote: July 6.]
+
+Started for 3.15 P.M. train, but no possibility of getting to Woolmer
+before 9 P.M. Left portmanteau at Liss; walked from Liphook; changed
+into Archie’s clothes.
+
+[Sidenote: Woolmer, July 7.]
+
+Lovely place this Woolmer!--Powerscourt, H. Stephenson, Salvin, a great
+naturalist, with cormorants to catch fish, Colonel Hagarth and wife.
+Had an amusing afternoon’s sport with the birds: no end of trout.
+
+[Sidenote: July 8.]
+
+More bother to get across Hants than to go to Bath. At 8.40 started in
+dogcart to Liphook, by rail _viâ_ Havant; got home in four hours.
+
+[Sidenote: July 11.]
+
+Archie Macdonald, Sheriff for the County, came with Keppel Stephenson
+and his chaplain, Rev. Randolph Keppel Stephenson, had a bed at the
+Dean’s.
+
+[Sidenote: July 12.]
+
+Lent wife’s carriage to Dean to vote for Bonham Carter. We all dined
+with the Dean in great force at result of election.
+
+[Sidenote: Norfolk, July 17.]
+
+At Swaffham met Lord Hastings, who took me on to Melton Constable.
+Canvassed with Mrs. Dugdale Astley.
+
+[Sidenote: July 18.]
+
+On Hastings drag, four grays, to poll at Keepham.
+
+[Sidenote: July 19.]
+
+With Gurdon and Sons to nomination at Swaffham. Got Bury to propose
+Gurdon. After lunch to Quidenham with Bury.
+
+[Sidenote: July 22.]
+
+Voted for Gurdon and Jones at Thetford. By express to London. By 1.10
+P.M. train to Winchester. Voted for Mildmay. Something to vote in
+Thetford and Winchester same day.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]
+
+Train from Bishopstoke through London. Joined Col. C. Baillie in fly to
+Wentworth Woodhouse, meeting George and Mrs. Fitzwilliam, Sir James and
+Lady Mary Wilde, Count Havonet, Fawkes, Teesdale, Colonels Charles and
+William Baillie.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Sept. 29.]
+
+Received intimation from Clerk of the Peace of the Lord-Lieutenant,
+Winchester, having signed my commission as a magistrate of the county!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
+
+Had a meeting of ratepayers in vestry to consider the inefficient state
+of drainage. Atkins and Co. too strong for us: nothing decided on. No
+hope, unless cholera lays hold of one of them.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]
+
+Having taken a six months’ season ticket, went up. Returned by 5 P.M.
+train. Cæsarewitch won by Salpinetes: a fiver on him at 6 to 1.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]
+
+In dogcart to Southampton to buy Colin a pair of gloves. Met George
+Day. On by King for something more of Salpinetes, Day, late one of my
+Mids, winning over £5000!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
+
+To Winchester to take the oaths as Justice of the Peace. By train to
+London; attended Board of Anglo-Greek Co.; much bother by Count Mataxa.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
+
+Dined with the Dean, for which purpose we borrowed his brougham. Sad
+intelligence of Lord Palmerston’s death reached by telegraph.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]
+
+Colonel Randolph came down to look over cottage and stables. Stopped
+luncheon and took no notice of Colin! Drove wife into Winchester. Went
+over Tubbs’ stud.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 21.]
+
+Drove dogcart into Southampton. Toys for the dear wife’s boy, 6s. 2d.!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]
+
+George Lennox came into church, and whispered he was coming to lunch
+afterwards. He borrowed a half-crown of me, intending to stop for the
+communion service; but after the sermon he slipped the coin back into
+my hand, saying, “That fellow has so bored me, I am unfit to stay to
+the sacrament”!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
+
+By train to Winchester. Attended for first time as magistrate. Special
+sessions.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
+
+Made a partial clearance in the cellar. Several articles brought to
+light. Pair of clam shells for the Cummings.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]
+
+By early train to London; on returning, stepping out before train
+had stopped at Bishopstoke, fell, striking back against handle of a
+wheelbarrow. Pain very great. Home and to bed.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]
+
+Tenants coming in, obliged to clear out. Unable to accompany wife and
+children to Bournemouth; was kindly taken in by Cummings. At once to
+bed, being in some pain and under impression that ribs were broken.
+Examined by Dr. Goldston; severe contusion, muscles bruised. Arnica
+applied, etc. Time and patience!
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]
+
+Took Charles Pilkington with me in dogcart to the opening of Albert
+Infirmary, Bishop’s Waltham. Prince Arthur, Princesses Helena and
+Louisa. Luncheon by Helps. Everything well done. Prayer by Bishop of
+Winchester. Concert in old Palace.
+
+[Sidenote: Bournemouth, Nov. 12.]
+
+To afternoon service. Do not approve of High Church practice. Why one
+is, on going to church to pray, to be inflicted for half-an-hour with
+the catechism of children, I do not understand.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, Nov. 26.]
+
+To morning service; a little too much High Church. Seven parsons in the
+holiest place!
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
+
+Arrived from London late in the evening at Brinsley Sheridan’s place,
+Frampton Court.
+
+[Sidenote: Frampton Court, Nov. 28.]
+
+As pretty a day’s shooting as one could wish. Five guns, of which
+George Bentinck was the best. B. Sheridan, Lord Archibald St. Maur,
+Lord Henry Thynne, and self made the number. There are few houses where
+guests are made to feel so welcome as at Frampton Court.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]
+
+Same guns, with the exception of Lord H. Thynne, who hunted. All
+rabbits found in patches of gorse on side of hill on the Downs. Party
+at Frampton Court--Lord Harry and Lady Elrica Thynne, Mr. Lowe, George
+Bentinck, Mrs. Phipps, Mr. and Mrs. Col. Digby, Lady Gifford, Mr. and
+Mrs. Marker, E. Digby’s daughter. Dinners excellent, wines ditto. Ditto
+conversation in smoking-room later!
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
+
+Another, the great day’s shooting; same five guns; no prettier
+shooting. Two woodcocks; one to my gun.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
+
+Mounted by Lord H. Thynne on a four-year old; kicking at starting.
+Short run with Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Home by 3.30 to catch train to
+Christchurch. Happy to get back to the “buzzom” of my family.
+
+[Sidenote: Bournemouth, Dec. 3.]
+
+My darling boy’s birthday; three years, and indeed a fine specimen.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
+
+Glad to get wife out; a fly to Fane’s, where I shot. Guns, Colonel
+Fergusson-Davies, Melville, a young Fane, Colonel Fane, and I. Cheery
+house to be in.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 5.]
+
+Mislaid portmanteau and missed my dinner, very much, with the dear old
+Dean at Winchester.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 7.]
+
+With Sheriff (Archie Macdonald) to meet Judge at station. Party to
+dinner at Deanery.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
+
+Sworn in as foreman of the Grand Jury: novel position, got through
+with assistance of Curzon. Dinner at the Dean’s; large party, chiefly
+clergy. Well-fed, jolly lot.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
+
+All the churches under influence of Mr. Bennett, of too much notoriety.
+“What can do.” Hard upon those who like to worship and pray to the
+Almighty in a quiet way.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
+
+Took my boy for walk in afternoon. What a companion is a small child
+when it’s your own! Crape round hat for Mrs. Wodehouse and King Leopold.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]
+
+Albemarle-Custs arrived safe after their perilous voyage in a saloon
+carriage from London.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 17.]
+
+Enjoyed a morning walk with Colin on the beach; although wrong,
+preferred it to High Church with no place for my hat!
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 21.]
+
+A walk with my boy; so companionable. The wife coming out, we dined
+with Cust-Albemarle.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]
+
+By train from Shoreditch. Took charge of Louisa Eyre as far as Harling
+Road. Dunmore for company. Did not get to Holkham until 8.20 P.M.
+Picked up Burys _en route_. Family gathering. Dunmore engaged to
+Gertrude.
+
+[Sidenote: Holkham, Dec. 24.]
+
+Party, besides family, Burys, Dunmore, Powerscourts, W. Coke, S.
+Stephenson, Powell, Tridcroft, Caulfield, Porter.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]
+
+To morning service. How difficult it is to fall in with a good
+preacher, especially when an extempore, with beard and moustache! Whist
+in evening.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]
+
+Shooting to-day--outskirts; twelve guns. Best of the shooting kept for
+the Prince. My bag 25 hares, 2 rabbits, 2 pheasants. Jolly party in the
+house. Henry Seymour and wife arrived.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]
+
+Walk with Seymour.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 28.]
+
+Shooting to-day, same guns nearly; more driving than shooting. Seymours
+left. Gurdons came.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 29.]
+
+Walk with B. Gurdon: he all the talk. Blind man’s buff in afternoon.
+Knocked my old head against chimney-piece--much to its inconvenience.
+Dance after dinner in statue gallery; whist also. Bury fallen on by
+Powerscourt, damaged ribs.
+
+[Sidenote: Quidenham, Dec. 30.]
+
+With Sophy Bury after luncheon to Wells--by train to Quidenham; kindly
+welcomed. Louisa Charteris there, Bury children nice.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]
+
+The old year going out in a storm. Went to church.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXII
+
+A SHORE JOURNAL
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1866. Jan. 1.]
+
+Out shooting with brother George--partridges.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
+
+Wild partridge shooting with Charles Clements: 20 brace, 5 hares, 6
+guns.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
+
+After shooting to meet friend Henry Eyre at Garboldisham.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
+
+Mount with scratch pack harriers.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
+
+Each afternoon I have sat with poor William Hoste; although he looks
+cheery and well in face, am afraid his days are numbered.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 8.]
+
+Found Holkham full; with P. Powell, Elphinstone, Dunmore, Tredcroft at
+the Inn, W. Coke and Sussex Stephenson going to Pinnock’s to make room.
+Attended at 4.30 P.M. to receive the Prince and Princess of Wales, Lady
+Morton and George Grey in attendance.
+
+[Sidenote: Holkham, Jan. 9.]
+
+Party in house to meet their Royal Highnesses, Duke and Duchess of
+Roxburghe, Lord Beaumont, Lord and Lady Suffield, Lord and Lady
+Spencer, Lord and Lady Powerscourt, Lords Hamilton and Dunmore and Mr.
+de Grey, Edward and Di Coke, P. Powell, Tredcroft, Capt. Elphinstone,
+W. Coke, S. Stephenson, Gen. Porter and T. Dunmore, Lord Alexander
+Murray. Grand shooting; did not carry gun until the finish with the
+rocketers, when I had one of Leicester’s. A cheery dance in the
+evening, in which old and young joined.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
+
+A day on the marshes--gentlemen beaters, ladies attending luncheon.
+Hamilton, Porter, and self fell into draining ditches.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]
+
+Weather bad--this, the best day’s shooting, postponed. Fair day of
+sport though.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 12.]
+
+This the grand day. Over 2000 head killed. Luncheon under large tent.
+Princess and ladies there. Dance in the evening, I dancing a quadrille
+with the most charming of Princesses!
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 15.]
+
+At Pratt’s--chat with John Hay.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]
+
+Joined wife at Deanery, Winchester. Party of twelve at dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]
+
+By early train to Wolverton. Joined by Lord Clanwilliam and party going
+to Sandringham, Prince and Princess coming back from visit to General
+Hall.
+
+[Sidenote: Sandringham, Jan. 19.]
+
+Hounds met Sandringham, Prince giving me a mount. Princess out: capital
+gallop. Enjoy my visit much.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
+
+Percy Feilding and self taken by the Prince to shoot at Mr. Bagge’s;
+excellent day. Pleased with my own performance. Not dressed in time
+for dinner, but was spotted by her kind Royal Highness the Duchess of
+Cambridge, who saw “the little Admiral” as he was trying to sneak in
+behind the servants.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
+
+To forenoon church, Charles Kingsley performing.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
+
+Departure of party; invited by Villebois with the Prince to shoot
+driven partridges. 270 brace bagged during a continual rain.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
+
+Finish to a most agreeable four days, Prince and Princess starting for
+Duke of Sutherland’s, Staffordshire, Duchess of Cambridge and remainder
+by rail to London. Dined with Cecilia Yorke. Party at Lord Powlett’s.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]
+
+Train to Bournemouth. Colin and May looking so well.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]
+
+Dined with Stephens; she, daughter of Sir H. Pottinger of China
+notoriety.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
+
+Dined with Albemarle-Custs.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]
+
+Attended Bench, Winchester.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]
+
+Dined with Page, engineer, meeting T. Weller and Ward, artist. Pleasant
+party.
+
+[Sidenote: Minterne, Feb. 10.]
+
+To friend Digby, I bringing a couple of horses from Chapman’s.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]
+
+Hunted with Sir Richard Glynn’s hounds. Met many friends. Plenty of
+foxes, but no good run. Pleased with my mount. Medlycotts coming to
+dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]
+
+With Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Good run, Severe, heavy country. One
+fall. Ground soft; several others ditto.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]
+
+Despatches from friend Read at Singapore. Should like to go out as
+Governor. Stormy weather again. Young ones rabbit shooting, I helping
+to cut up and clear away wreck of trees blown down.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 16.]
+
+Out with Poltimore. Good run with second fox. My usual ill luck; badly
+lamed one of Chapman’s horses--cut on fetlock, off foreleg, supposed to
+be by flint.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]
+
+Afternoon service near Marker’s house. Small, very nice old-fashioned
+place. Good sermon--rare event.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 19.]
+
+Came down prepared for the chase. Frost pronounced to be too severe,
+especially over Poltimore’s downy country. Letter from Mr. Crawshay,
+enclosing an interesting one from Bishop Colenso. Young Digby, Marker
+and I, shot rabbits. Mr. Alexander Baring came. Porter left.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]
+
+Letter from wife. Colin ill. Changed hunting costume and rode to
+Dorchester; train to Poole. Found the children bad--severe colds.
+
+[Sidenote: Minterne, Feb. 21.]
+
+Horse from King’s Arms to Minterne. In time for luncheon. Walk with
+Alexander Baring.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
+
+Hunted with B.V. hounds. Rode new horse of Chapman’s--fine animal.
+Digby, Marker, Edward Digby and self--a good show from here. One fox
+chopped; a second found. No scent. Jolly day though.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]
+
+Young Digby and I to the B.V. hounds. Mounted by B. Brooke. Capital
+jumper. Good short run, and part of another. Put hack up at
+Littletrab’s--Webbes, Medlycott, and Surtees out.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]
+
+With Poltimore’s hounds. Two good runs. Several falls, I, an absurd
+one. Marker’s horse killed. My last day’s hunting.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 28.]
+
+Dear old Dean entered his ninety-first year. Attended court as grand
+juryman. Managed not to be sworn in as foreman. Lunched with Arthur
+Cumming. Rajah Brooke there. Returned to Winchester. Dinner party as
+usual.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]
+
+Meeting of magistrates on cattle plague--Chamberlayne, Bullpitt, Wells,
+Mulock, self.
+
+[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Mar. 12.]
+
+By train to London and Grantham. Whichcote to meet us. Welcomed to
+Ashwarby.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]
+
+Started for Croxton Park races. Weather unusually fine. Whichcote’s
+horse, “Chance,” nowhere. Our party: Mrs. Franklin, Henry Gray, George
+Fitzroy, Colonel Fane. Back in time for 8 o’clock dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
+
+Forenoon service. Longish sermon that I did not hear. Took leave of
+kind friends.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]
+
+To London. Attended levée, presenting Harry Stephenson. Dined with Mr.
+Page, engineer.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Mar. 26.]
+
+Attempt to fly-fish, having seen two rises. Lost two hooks in two
+walnut trees. Margaret Garnier and Tom came, former to stay.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]
+
+Winchester to attend bench. Luncheon at Deane’s. Thermistophles to win
+City and Suburban.
+
+[Sidenote: April 3.]
+
+Another large party, chiefly doctors and “rooks,” also young Lord
+Mulgrave.
+
+[Sidenote: April 4.]
+
+By early train home. Dined with Atherlys--first-rate.
+
+[Sidenote: April 10.]
+
+By train to London. Received, through George Elliot, an offer to take
+command of the Paraguayan navy: they at war with the Brazilians.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+This looked like business. Before giving answer, certain inquiries to
+be made. My name would be removed from Her Majesty’s navy list, for
+which I should require remuneration. A certain number of warships:
+a couple of ironclads to begin with, and a place to reside in while
+ships were being manned and fitted. £34,000 for loss of commission.
+The first and greatest difficulty was consent of wife. The Paraguayan
+agents appeared to be well satisfied. I intended to select, as soon
+as a proper ship had been provided, the beautiful bay, Bahia, off the
+Brazilian coast, as place of rendezvous. I had to provide officers
+in anticipation. The agents had already provided charts, which I
+daily studied. However, it all ended without smoke. Means were not
+forthcoming; the whole affair was quickly forgotten!
+
+[Sidenote: April 21.]
+
+To Cosham, on Chamberlayne’s drag to Hambledown. Hunt races. Capital
+meeting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXIII
+
+HOME LIFE
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1866. Yachting, April 25.]
+
+Embarked on board _Dream_, George Bentinck, in time for dinner. At
+about 9 P.M. a fruit trading steamer, weather fine, water smooth, moon
+shining bright, ran into two yachts: _Ione_, Captain R. Quin, R.N.,
+and _Intrepid_, Count F. du Monceaux, carrying away their bowsprits,
+damaging bows and knocking two men overboard. _Ione_ was to have joined
+us on a cruise.
+
+[Sidenote: _Dream_, R.Y.S., April 26.]
+
+10 A.M.--Got under weigh: light breeze from eastward. Cook, the same
+artist Whichcote had in _Enchantress_. _Dream_ substantially built and
+very comfortable; yawl rigged. Made fast to a buoy in Portland Harbour.
+_St. George_ lying here, commanded by old shipmate E. Rice. Laid out
+trammel for red mullet, which are generally plentiful and good here,
+but caught whiting pont only.
+
+[Sidenote: Portland, April 27.]
+
+After breakfast landed with Bentinck. Convicts at work; got some fair
+specimens of ammonite and fossil shells. Accompanied Rice on board _St.
+George_; guns, stores on board, ready for service, to be manned from
+coastguard.
+
+[Sidenote: April 29.]
+
+Bentinck read prayers to a well-conducted and attentive crew.
+
+[Sidenote: April 30.]
+
+[Sidenote: May 3.]
+
+Visited works on the heights by convicts. When the fortifications are
+finished, where will the men come from to garrison them? Saw the fossil
+trees; some stumps erect, and others buried in the solid stone.
+
+[Sidenote: May 4.]
+
+My May’s birthday--promising little yearling.
+
+[Sidenote: Cherbourg, May 5.]
+
+Visited Consul Hammond on the hill, from whose garden the view is very
+fine. Consul has two charming daughters. He came on board to dine.
+
+[Sidenote: May 7.]
+
+Slipped from the buoy. Sent a boat in for grub, standing off and on.
+Made fast to a buoy under breakwater.
+
+[Sidenote: May 10.]
+
+Weather tide, nasty swell; felt too sea-sick to turn out before 2 P.M.,
+when we got into Portland Roads. Took leave of kind host in time for
+mutton chops, wife dining with the Dean.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, May 20.]
+
+Forenoon church. Wife and I received Holy Sacrament, administered by
+the Dean, perhaps last time.
+
+[Sidenote: May 25.]
+
+Visit from Rev. Charles Kingsley, the author, who stopped to dine with
+Dean, where we were.
+
+[Sidenote: May 27.]
+
+Forenoon church. Dear old Dean still reading, or rather repeating by
+heart, the prayers as far as the Litany, in which he included the
+Collect for the day--Trinity Sunday.
+
+[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, May 31.]
+
+Telegraph from friend, Page C.E. Off to London; knowing how much I
+wanted a job, he informed me of his having undertaken to raise a large
+ironship, the _London_, lying at the bottom of the Tay, below Dundee,
+and offered me the job of navigating her into dock, or some place where
+she could be got at for repair.
+
+[Sidenote: June 1.]
+
+Was invited by the Committee to fill the chair at R.N. Club dinner
+to celebrate the anniversary of Howes’s victory, anniversary also
+of action between _Shannon_ and _Chesapeake_. Poor little Fatshan
+forgotten!
+
+While sitting on bridge over the Itchen in garden, observed a tomtit’s
+nest in the muzzle of a gun captured on 1st of June in Fatshan
+Creek--curious the uses to which a gun may be put.
+
+[Sidenote: June 25.]
+
+By train to Dundee. Wife and I in possession of apartments at the Royal
+Hotel, where we expected to find Mr. Page.
+
+[Sidenote: Dundee, June 26.]
+
+Found Mr. Secretary Cooper; no further difficulties. Visited wreck near
+low water with working party. The _London_ belonged to the London and
+Dundee Steam Company; in December last came in collision with a steam
+trader, _Harvest Queen_; both vessels went down. _Harvest Queen_ got
+up, but being grounded on a bank, broke her back. Mr. Cooper, Secretary
+to the Company, very civil and obliging. Mr. Low, one of the Directors,
+also very civil. Page not arrived.
+
+Visited the _London_ in a steam tug. Two divers, under management of
+Mr. Gorman, Admiralty man. There is an ugly fracture on the starboard
+side, about fifteen feet to nothing, about three feet from the bottom
+iron, jagged on both sides, the fore side of fracture bent inward, on
+after side, outwards, supposed to be done at the time the _Harvest
+Queen_ separated by backing astern. Proposed to cover the hatchway on
+main deck with coverings secured. Divers report that seals have taken
+up their quarters in the state-rooms, and haddocks swim freely in the
+’tween decks.
+
+[Sidenote: July 14.]
+
+Change of Ministry--Lord Derby, Prime Minister; Sir John Pakington,
+First Lord; Vice-Admiral Sir Alexander Milne, First Sea. _This_ does
+not break my heart.
+
+Saturday, a drunken day amongst workmen in Scotland, or the _London_
+might, I think, have been lifted. 2 A.M. Sunday morning before we got
+back.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Raising the _London_ proved a failure, and after spending two months
+in Dundee, where wife and self were hospitably entertained by friends,
+we returned to Bishopstoke at the end of August, Colin and May having
+benefited by the bracing Scotch air.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXIV
+
+THE COMMAND IN CHINA
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1866. Dec. 13.]
+
+I insert the following by kind permission:--
+
+  (_Private._)                          OAKLEY PARK, SCOLE, NORFOLK,
+                                            _December 12, 1866_.
+
+  MY DEAR SIR HENRY--I am glad to be able to tell you that I received a
+  letter from Sir John Pakington this morning, announcing his intention
+  of offering you, with the Queen’s approval, the China Command, as
+  Admiral King is going to give up, and I am only too happy if I have
+  in any small way been the means of getting Sir John to give you this
+  Command.
+
+  Both he and the whole Admiralty are very well disposed towards you,
+  and I am sure that you will do all in your power to show them that
+  you are anxious to distinguish yourself during this Command, as you
+  always have done on previous occasions.--Believe me, yours very
+  sincerely,
+                                             (Signed) ALBERT EDWARD.
+
+God bless the Prince of Wales!
+
+A letter from Sir John Pakington followed.
+
+The gratification this afforded me I cannot well describe. The five
+long years’ treatment I had received at the hands of the Admiralty
+fretted me.
+
+The want of a residence, the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong, as well as
+the improbability of the flagship remaining there for more than a few
+days at a time, now that a Commodore has been appointed: the unsettled
+state of our relations with Japan, as well as the uncertainty of the
+period that I might retain the Command (being only five from the top
+of the list of Vice-Admirals), were only a few of the difficulties
+of a wife in China. However, I persuaded her to give up all idea of
+going with me, promising, if at the end of my first year there were
+two Vice-Admirals on the list above me, she might come out with the
+children.
+
+Letters of congratulation flowed in from kind friends. From the Prince
+of Wales; dear Dean Garnier; one from Charles Kingsley, which much
+pleased me.
+
+  (_Copy_)                             EVERSLEY RECTORY, WINCHFIELD,
+                                           _December 17, 1866_.
+
+  MY DEAR ADMIRAL--I have this moment heard that you are to have
+  the China Squadron. Accept my most cordial congratulations, most
+  disinterested ones, likewise, for I am afraid that I shall not have
+  the pleasure of seeing you for some time to come. May you prosper and
+  enjoy yourself as you deserve, and kill a few more pirates: they seem
+  to be wanting you again in those parts. Believe me, with most kind
+  regards to Lady Keppel, ever yours, overjoyed,
+
+                                               (Signed) C. KINGSLEY.
+
+Letters from shipmates, down to my old steward, William White, now
+an Admiralty messenger, came pouring in, together with applications
+from and about officers to be appointed, giving me more than enough to
+do. Besides the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of Buccleuch and Richmond,
+as well as my kind kinsman, Peregrine Cust, interested themselves in
+getting me employment.
+
+King, in command in China, had expressed a wish to be relieved without
+delay. His flagship, the _Princess Royal_, was ordered down to
+Singapore so as to save the last of the northerly monsoon, bringing
+the _Salamis_, commanded by my old friend and shipmate, Francis Suttie,
+to receive my flag.
+
+I was ordered a passage by the overland route, to leave Southampton on
+February 20, 1867. Risk, paymaster in the _Alert_, then in the Pacific,
+and Harry Stephenson, commanding a gunboat on the Lakes of Canada, were
+ordered home as my Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant, and I selected friend
+Heneage as Captain.
+
+I was invited by the Prince of Wales to Sandringham to take leave,
+and afterwards accompanied their Royal Highnesses to Holkham for the
+Christmas week. On the way back stopped a day at Quidenham, and one
+with friend General Eyre, who had taken Garboldisham.
+
+[Sidenote: 1867. Jan. 21.]
+
+On January 21 went to Sheerness and hoisted flag on board the
+_Cumberland_, which was in due form saluted by the flagship of Sir
+Baldwin Walker, who kindly took us into Admiralty House. At the same
+time was hoisted the pennant on board _Rodney_, then in the basin.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
+
+Returned to London. Having received a letter from Cowell stating that
+he had received Her Majesty’s command to invite me to Windsor on
+February 25, to stay till the following day, the Admiralty ordered my
+passage _viâ_ Marseilles instead of Southampton, giving me four or five
+days’ grace.
+
+Went by invitation, to Miss Burdett-Coutts at Torquay to take leave of
+my valued friend Rajah Brooke, who had lately had a paralytic stroke.
+Found him partially recovered, but spirits good and his powerful mind
+apparently unaffected. (I never saw him again.) Left early to join
+wife, staying with the Custs at Bournemouth. Taking leave of these most
+kind and hospitable relations we returned to Bishopstoke for the last
+days. General Charles Fox had kindly offered his house, Addison Road,
+Kensington: our likenesses being painted by Henry Graves had yet to be
+finished.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]
+
+Farewell dinner with H.R.H. the Prince of Wales.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
+
+Went down to Windsor. At Paddington found Lady Caroline Barrington,
+availing myself of the carriage sent for her when we reached Windsor.
+Dined, a household dinner, Lady Caroline Barrington and Miss Macdonald
+in waiting with Biddulph and Cowell. After dinner, was summoned into
+the presence of Her Majesty in the corridor, the Queen still wearing
+the widow’s cap. However, I was received with one of Her Majesty’s
+pleasantest smiles, and after some twelve minutes’ conversation,
+chiefly about the Duke of Edinburgh and Count Gleichen, I was
+graciously dismissed. Cowell saw me into my train.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]
+
+Risk, lately married, was likewise ordered a passage _viâ_ Marseilles.
+My boy stated when he saw me off in the train at Bishopstoke that
+“Dadda would get out at the China station!” Found French steam packet
+at Dover; rail to Paris and Marseilles, where we arrived at 12.30 P.M.
+Took possession of the cabin allotted me on board the mail steamer,
+opening into the saloon!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXV
+
+BOUND FOR CHINA
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1867. Malta, Mar. 2.]
+
+It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March 2nd when we
+arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget came off; we landed together. Rem
+Macdonald kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the Carnival
+commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty House and re-embarked.
+
+We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria on the 7th.
+Here, met my old friend James Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint
+Superintendent, with a military man, to attend the transit through
+Egypt of our troops to India. It was about four when we reached
+Cairo. Here we were joined by Harry Stephenson, who had come _viâ_
+Southampton. We were informed that we were not to go on to Suez until
+the following day. A rush was made to secure beds. The best had been
+already bespoken by the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson had
+thought of us and secured rooms. The transit through Egypt is managed
+by the Government. Most of the officials are French and wear the fez
+and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the time, with equal
+ease.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]
+
+We made another start at 10 A.M. and took a plentiful supply of
+oranges, which we found agreeable crossing the desert. At Suez I found
+another friend in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer _Surat_;
+we first became acquainted when he was in command of one of the hired
+transports at Balaklava. He kindly took me in his gig to visit the
+great dock and engineering works carried on by the French under M. de
+Lesseps. Time, money, and perseverance will, I believe, complete the
+great work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at no distant
+period of being able to pass a ship of the line from the Mediterranean
+to the Red Sea. No English capitalists have, however, invested a
+shilling in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for an amount
+of abuse, attributing our reluctance to share in the French glory to
+bad motives.
+
+We did not get away until the morning of the 9th. Among our passengers
+was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers
+on Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse. On Perim we have a
+lighthouse: some eight years ago, the mail steamer on passing observed
+a French brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the next day
+the French captain mentioned to Colonel Coghlan, the Governor of Aden,
+with whom he was dining, that he was going the next morning to take
+possession of Perim in the name of the French Government. Coghlan,
+without rising from table, or taking any apparent notice of what had
+been said, pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the Captain
+of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once with a party and hoist
+the British colours on the island. The French captain’s disappointment
+the next day when he found himself forestalled would have been worth
+seeing. A correspondence took place between the two Governments; when
+it was proved that we had prior possession during our war with France,
+when we retained Perim, but under a promise we should not fortify it.
+
+Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or thereabouts.
+
+[Sidenote: Aden, Mar. 14.]
+
+Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden. The Resident, Colonel
+Merewether, immediately sent off to invite me to Government House while
+the _Surat_ coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing place. It was
+pleasant to get into a cool airy house, and to write one’s letters
+in peace and quiet. After dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to
+see those wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned, whose
+ancient date no one has been able to decide. The cement with which
+the rock’s sides and bottom of the ravine are lined, as well as the
+steps, is as perfect and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They
+had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct was in progress,
+which will shortly bring a supply from a stream some six miles distant.
+Experienced much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn.
+
+[Sidenote: Galle, Mar. 23.]
+
+The cleanliness and comfort of the _Surat_ spoilt us for any other
+vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at Point de Galle at 8 A.M. on
+the 23rd, we were transferred to _Ottawa_. The yards were manned as
+the last little attention the Captain could pay me on quitting the
+ship. On landing at Point de Galle I was received by Colonel Hodgson,
+Brigadier-General and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George
+II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore Keppel had
+been selected to act together for the capture of Belle Isle from the
+French: a friendship between the families was then established and has
+continued ever since. We passed the heat of the day in the “Queen’s
+House,” occupied by the General, who, after having entertained us at
+dinner, embarked with us on board the _Ottawa_: he going to the Straits
+Settlements on an official inspection.
+
+We found the _Ottawa_ comparatively small, ill ventilated, with a
+suffocating smell of opium. But there was the same civility and
+attention that we had experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s
+ships.
+
+[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 29.]
+
+Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore during the six hours the
+steamer was to stay, and visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs.
+Lewis, both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of former days
+still remaining.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
+
+Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel, as well as by a good
+light on Cape Ricardo.
+
+[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 31.]
+
+Sunday at 2 P.M. the _Ottawa_ steamed alongside the P. and O. Company’s
+wharf in New Harbour, Singapore. Captains Edge of _Satellite_, Ross of
+_Pearl_, Menzies of _Osprey_, and Suttie of _Salamis_ were there to
+receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the Governor’s secretary,
+Mr. Plow, brother to a lad who was with me in the _Forte_. Many other
+friends were also there.
+
+As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be installed in due form on
+the morrow, a few arrangements for salutes and officers’ attendance had
+to be made. At 3 P.M. my flag was hoisted on board the _Salamis_ and I
+became Commander-in-Chief of the China station, and, being senior, at
+once assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived the salute until the
+following morning. On landing was driven by friend Read to his house,
+where, by previous arrangement, took up my quarters.
+
+[Sidenote: April 1.]
+
+Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills, each of which is crowned
+by a residence. On looking out in the early morning from the verandah,
+an extensive view in front of the town and anchorage, and from behind
+of the country inland. How many associations of bygone days--some sad,
+but many more, pleasant--were brought to mind.
+
+The morning commenced by saluting my flag. At noon we repaired to
+the Town Hall to assist in the inauguration of the new Governor, and
+the transfer of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the Colonial
+Government. Separate salutes were fired on each occasion: an event in
+the history of Singapore.
+
+[Sidenote: April 1 to 4.]
+
+Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown, which was close to a
+landing-place, for an office, and the business of the station under the
+new Chief was commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied much
+time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the Governor, the Military and
+Naval Commanders-in-Chief, were the order of the day. The weather was
+hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious dinners told.
+
+[Sidenote: April 5.]
+
+Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than was expected,
+the _Princess Royal_ hove in sight. It seldom happens that a
+Commander-in-Chief is relieved by a senior, and more than the usual
+amount of jealousy between those in command and those whose reign was
+so suddenly at an end took place. However, I found my old friend George
+King the same as ever. Inspected _Salamis_ and examined the comfortable
+quarters that had been fitted for the use of self and staff.
+
+[Sidenote: April 6.]
+
+Returned King’s visit; was received on board _Princess Royal_ with
+manned yards; finished with an excellent luncheon and inspection of the
+many curios collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus Hill on
+board in R.M.L.I.
+
+[Sidenote: April 8.]
+
+_Princess Royal_ was off at daylight. Had King been senior, I have no
+doubt but that he would have remained longer.
+
+[Sidenote: April 13.]
+
+The _Pearl_ started in advance of us for Sarawak. Ross had permission
+to use his own discretion about going up to the town. Paid a visit
+to the Tumongong of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I
+recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances. He has
+been to England, received at Court, and decorated with the Star of
+India.
+
+[Sidenote: Singapore, April 14.]
+
+Among the improvements at Singapore is an exceedingly neat and handsome
+church. No want of opportunities for writing to England, as the French
+packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O. Company.
+
+There are few ships without a favourite dog--in _Salamis_ Suttie has
+one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel and great favourite. On shore he can
+take his own part, although not too big. He is besides a good pointer
+as well as retriever.
+
+[Sidenote: April 15.]
+
+I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the _Satellite_ as well
+as that for our departure for Sarawak, Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong.
+Before leaving the _Salamis_, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the
+French Consul, who was very anxious that we should join his nation in
+avenging the defeat they had experienced last year at the hands of the
+Coreans.
+
+While I was inspecting the _Satellite_, my friend General Hodgson, with
+Colonel Young, went on board the _Salamis_, which then got under weigh,
+W. H. Read and Goodlake with us. _Satellite_ hoisted flag and saluted
+the General on his leaving. There was consternation on board on its
+being discovered that Carlo was nowhere to be found. His description
+was written out and a reward offered on shore for his recovery, but it
+was unfortunately the season when the policemen are directed to destroy
+all stray dogs. Alas, poor Carlo!
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, April 16.]
+
+Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa Palm islands floating
+ahead, and not having gone to quarters when I inspected the _Salamis_,
+I thought this would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters and
+opened fire on the floating island.
+
+In the middle of the rushing about incidental to going to quarters, and
+with the first cartridge, who should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping
+with delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome little dog!
+the last time the magazine was opened was on Sunday, when the gunner
+went down at 8.40 P.M. to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it
+being dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he existed or what his
+feelings were in that atmosphere he knows best. If I had not fancied
+the Nipa Palm for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered or
+starved to death.
+
+[Sidenote: April 17.]
+
+[Sidenote: Sarawak.]
+
+Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu; before eight we had passed the
+Santobong entrance, and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood
+for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River. These bold headlands
+and magnificent scenery, although I had visited them frequently since,
+brought fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago, when I first
+came up in the _Dido_ with James Brooke on board, and gave the first,
+and nearly the only, help he ever had in securing his position; thereby
+enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for the benefit of
+a strange race. If he has not succeeded to the full extent of his,
+then, sanguine hopes, still there is no man living or to come who,
+single-handed, will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent
+Brooke has.
+
+In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were the order of the day.
+The sail of a peaceful trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a
+fisherman’s hut along the length of this beautiful coast. Far into
+the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred on one another. Now, how
+different! Huts and fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast;
+the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the _Dido_ had scarcely 800
+inhabitants, now has a population of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of
+the aborigines who called themselves warriors are now peaceful traders
+and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is fast being cleared to make
+way for farms; and to prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts
+has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle--far from being the most
+productive soil that could be found--where everything that is likely
+to thrive within the tropics will be introduced into this model farm.
+Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and oranges were doing
+well. Rice and sago, mulberry trees to feed silkworms, were all in
+progress.
+
+On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we found the _Pearl_ had
+proceeded up, drawing over 19 feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up
+this beautiful river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which
+I so nearly lost the _Dido_, I found that my ill-luck in finding the
+bottom had not forsaken me. I believe the helm was ported to avoid
+running down a canoe that attempted to cross our bows. And we were
+bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide we did not remain, but
+we knew not until long afterwards what mischief was done.
+
+On approaching the capital, the _Pearl_ saluted my flag, and after
+coming to an anchor higher up, she hoisted the flag and saluted that
+of Sarawak. A guard of honour received me on landing, where I was met
+by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson, now Tuan Muda. He had
+changed his name to that of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a
+name he was then unfit for! _Pearl_ had not escaped the _Dido_ rocks,
+and Captain Ross brought on board _Salamis_ a piece of false keel and
+sheets of copper, which divers found displaced! These accidents are sad
+bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to establish a reputation
+at the Admiralty as a cautious and careful chief.
+
+[Sidenote: April 18.]
+
+_Pearl_ started against the afternoon flood-tide to precede us to
+Labuan. We remained a few days to enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan
+Muda, who repeatedly expressed the good effect our visit would
+have--the influence which would be felt to the farther end of the
+Rajah’s dominions.
+
+All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah Laut” (Sea King)
+as they styled me, but most of my original friends who had fought for
+the suppression of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of that
+stirring time were fresh in the memory of the children, and old Patingi
+Alli’s son was now one of the principal chiefs, a most useful and
+worthy man. His gallant old father was killed with many others while
+serving with the _Dido’s_ boats.
+
+In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda along a two-mile road, cut
+through that ever interesting and magnificent jungle.
+
+[Sidenote: April 20.]
+
+About three in the afternoon we took our departure, the Tuan Muda
+having supplied us with turkeys and geese that would have done credit
+to a Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three Dyak swords, some
+deer horns and alligators’ eggs, were among the curios we brought away.
+
+The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike, with
+a determination not to be surpassed, with a sense of
+justice--qualifications fully appreciated by the chiefs.
+
+[Sidenote: Labuan, April 22.]
+
+8 A.M.--Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. Several old friends came
+on board--Hugh Low, Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour
+Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr. Treacher, one of the
+Rajah’s earliest followers. Each of them I had known some twenty years
+before. All the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard to
+receive me on landing, when I became the guest of my friend Low. His
+daughter has just come out from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite
+seventeen. Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and came out
+with me in the _Mæander_. I was present at her wedding with Low. The
+poor girl died at Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her, was
+but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one of the loveliest spots of
+Low’s beautiful garden, hidden from view by a grove of orange trees.
+The boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De Crespigny kindly
+added to my collection of shells. Harry Stephenson and self were put up
+at Government House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being the bearer of a
+letter from Yelverton, were received elsewhere.
+
+_Salamis_ proceeded in the afternoon to Coal Point. The island of
+Labuan having been ceded by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession
+of in the name of the Government by Captain Rodney Mundy under Sir
+Thomas Cochrane, on account of the coal mines. These mines, owing to
+bad management and a jobbing company, have not succeeded as they might
+have done, but the island has been useful in other ways. Our occupation
+has driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still rife to the
+eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has likewise had a check, and their
+treatment on the opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known
+that slaves have only to escape to British territory to be free. Power
+has passed from the Sultan and his chiefs.
+
+We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has been replaced by a native
+agent. The United States are represented by a disagreeable scamp named
+Moss, who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded the Sultan to
+cede to him a portion of the north-eastern coast, as well as some of
+the adjacent islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just claim;
+fortunately no valid agreement was drawn up. When Mr. Moss had to make
+a first deposit, no money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman,
+by name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go partners on
+condition that the property ceded was to be placed in his name.[4] The
+title-deeds were returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime
+they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and the Sultan retained the
+title-deeds, which Mr. Moss wished to have returned to him.
+
+[4] This portion of the island was ceded to the British North Borneo
+Company by Royal Charter in 1881.
+
+As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he decided on the dodge
+of setting fire to his own house, and accused the Sultan of having
+instigated his people to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the
+detention of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification. But the
+cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact of his having removed
+his wife and small effects to Labuan a few days previously, and then
+the statement that he was fired on twelve times with musketry, which no
+one heard, are facts.
+
+On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode through the magnificent
+jungle peculiar to Labuan, by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought
+us there. At 10 A.M. went on board _Pearl_, under manned yards, and
+inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed in the afternoon for
+Hong-Kong; we took until night to complete coal and followed in the
+morning; steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect of fine
+weather.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXVI
+
+THE CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1867. Hong-Kong, April 30.]
+
+On the 30th April found myself once more entering Hong-Kong by the
+Lyemoon passage. Commodore Oliver Jones’s broad pennant was flying
+in the _Princess Charlotte_, a huge three-decker, painted yellow and
+white, and looking shorter and higher than any Ning Po junk. A small
+fleet of gunboats looking very like business. Stopped on board to
+receive the usual official visits.
+
+[Illustration: _The Commodore._]
+
+[Sidenote: May 1.]
+
+At noon the shore guns fired a salute, which was cleverly returned
+by the gunboats firing in succession. The Governor having sent to
+know the time when I landed, at 2 P.M. was received by Colonel Guy
+and a guard of 73rd Regiment. His Excellency, Sir Richard MacDonnell,
+having sent his carriage, I went, accompanied by the Commodore and
+Flag-Lieutenant, at once to get visit of ceremony over. We found His
+Excellency and charming wife. Took up my quarters with old friend John
+Dent at the palace of Dent and Co.; a room was allotted for Harry
+Stephenson, as well as for W. H. Read. The flag was transferred to the
+_Princess Charlotte_.
+
+[Sidenote: Hong-Kong.]
+
+The Opera company small, but for a beginning very fair, and included
+three French ballet dancers. My conveyance was a chair with four
+bearers, good-tempered fellows whom no work could tire. Was made an
+honorary member of the Artillery and Engineers, as well as of the 73rd
+Mess. The wife of Colonel Guy was the eldest daughter of my old chief
+Admiral Plumridge, as was also Mrs. Cumming in the same regiment, by
+his second wife.
+
+[Sidenote: May 4.]
+
+Read, Stephenson and self went to Macao, in an American-built steamer
+running between Macao and Hong-Kong. Nothing could be cleaner or more
+comfortable than these vessels.
+
+[Sidenote: May 5.]
+
+We left Hong-Kong at 10 A.M. and entered the inner harbour three hours
+and a half later. We put up at the house of Dent and Co., provisions
+and servants having been sent with us. Considerable improvement had
+been effected by the last governor in roads, cleanliness of streets,
+etc. A lighthouse had also been built, but as these improvements
+required money that might otherwise have been remitted to the mother
+country, the governor was not allowed to remain. After dinner we
+visited the gambling-houses, recently licensed, curious to see, but too
+hot to remain in for many minutes.
+
+The rules of the game appeared to me less unfair for the player than
+most games of the sort. A small square cloth in the centre of the table
+is marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the sides. Before placing your stake, a
+heap of small pice is placed by the dealer or keeper before him on the
+table, which is partially covered by a cup, the pice are then withdrawn
+by a pointed stick or long steel needle. As each four are separated
+they are swept into the original heap from which the handful had just
+been taken. Four at a time are so withdrawn until the last lot, under
+five, remain. It is according to the number left whether 1, 2, 3 or 4
+win.
+
+For instance, if three remain, and you put your money on, you get three
+times your stake. I was next an American gentleman who had had a dream
+in which No. 1 was the winning number; in backing his dream he had lost
+$1400.
+
+[Sidenote: May 6 to 14.]
+
+On Sunday 5th the English mail arrived at Hong-Kong. Our letters were
+sent to us in one of the gunboats, the first letters we had received
+since leaving home. All good news with the exception of the death of
+Sir Phipps Hornby, removing one admiral from the active list, and
+rendering the probability of my completing my three years less.
+
+[Sidenote: Hong-Kong.]
+
+Returned to Hong-Kong in time for Dent’s breakfast. Tuesday, visited
+the new docks, which are being excavated at Aberdeen, magnificent
+docks, 400 feet long, capable of holding any ironclad likely to be sent
+to this station.
+
+One afternoon, partly walking and partly being carried in chairs, we
+went over the island by the gap to Dent’s house at Pokofolum, which
+must be a delightful residence in the S.W. monsoon: it has both a
+vegetable and flower garden. Some Formosa fallow-deer were thriving in
+a secured place. Being pressed for time, we returned in our chairs,
+Overbeck on foot, and reached the town-house in forty-seven minutes!
+Six miles. I had to dine at Government House, a large party. Commodore
+Jones entertains lavishly. He gave me an excellent dinner the other
+day. His quarters on board the _Princess Charlotte_ are roomy, airy,
+and most comfortable. Dined also a large party, with Mr. Whittal,
+Jardine and Matheson’s representative. They have a very nice house
+prettily situated on a hill. The table, furniture, etc., were as good
+as money could procure. Around the rooms were some superb race cups,
+such as I fancied were only to be seen on the front of the stand at
+Goodwood.
+
+[Sidenote: Whampoa, May 14.]
+
+Harry Stephenson and I started by packet steamer for Whampoa. Fine
+boats, American build, leave Hong-Kong and Canton every morning,
+meeting somewhere about the Bogue Forts. They now belong to a company,
+and fly the English flag. They perform the journey generally within
+eight hours, carrying cargo, many Chinese passengers and a few
+Europeans, seldom more than ten.
+
+We got out at Whampoa to see the _Pearl_ and _Salamis_ in dock. _Pearl_
+but little damaged, a small portion of her fore-foot and false keel.
+More serious the _Salamis_: four-and-twenty of her timbers fractured,
+and damage to keel; necessary to take out two foremost boilers, both of
+which required repair. Advantage of this opportunity was taken to have
+accommodation on deck improved. All the work well superintended and
+conducted by Mr. Gillies, a most useful servant to the Dock Company.
+
+Went on in the _Banterer_, commanded by my old shipmate Pringle, to
+Canton, but even this small vessel could not keep off the bottom while
+I was on board--passing the second barrier she bumped heavily, and, as
+I found afterwards, rubbed copper off.
+
+[Sidenote: Canton, May 15.]
+
+We anchored off, what I recollect as a densely populated floating
+street of flower boats. All that portion of the river has since been
+walled and filled in, forming an island on which were the foreign
+consulates and residences. The island retains the name of Shaimen. On
+landing I was received by the Consul-General, Robertson, and, after
+looking over the buildings, we, Stephenson and self, got into chairs,
+and proceeded into the city of Canton, the Consul’s residence being
+within the Tartar quarter and interior wall, inside this great walled
+city, closed for so many centuries against all foreigners.
+
+We traversed nearly three miles of narrow, densely-populated streets
+before we reached the Tartar yamun. Robertson had the good taste not to
+alter anything beyond the addition of a little European furniture. The
+building was old, and I occupied a bed which had most likely been slept
+in by some Tartar general when they captured Canton from the Chinese
+in the seventeenth century. At the back of the house were a court and
+out-buildings, and the remains of a large building which caught fire,
+nobody knew how, when occupied by our troops in 1861.
+
+Beyond this again was a park-like enclosure, containing small hills,
+trees, and deer. Although not more than 15 acres, the extent was great
+when you consider that it was in the heart of a densely-populated
+walled city. The weather was bad, and we did not see half of what we
+might had we had more time.
+
+Nothing, however is more curious than the city itself, the shops and
+the narrow streets along which our chairmen travelled at what appeared
+a reckless pace, bellowing to make people get out of the way, but
+somehow hurting nobody. We visited some of the prisons containing
+culprits under sentence of death; they appeared indifferent as to their
+fate, looked and laughed at us. Others at work making or embroidering
+clothes--not for themselves. About 1500 are executed annually! At
+the entrance gate to the Tartar General’s yamun are large figures of
+nondescript animals carved in granite and of great antiquity.
+
+[Sidenote: May 17.]
+
+My friend Robertson bore a strong resemblance to Lord Nelson and Lord
+John Russell. Whether he had guests or not he sat daily at the head of
+his dinner-table in great form. A row of servants on the right, with
+several dogs in front, all looking equally solemn. On the left was a
+long sideboard variously ornamented; plates and cups of silver.
+
+After dinner, when everything was quiet, I noticed rats playing about,
+picking up crumbs the Consul had thrown out during dinner. I drew his
+attention to them and proposed to set the dogs on; to which Robertson
+objected, saying they did no harm, and that if frightened they would
+throw out such a stench of musk no one could stay in the room. The deer
+in his park would scarcely move out of his way.
+
+Took leave of our kind host, who would accompany us to the steamer,
+lying ready alongside a wharf built in front of the site of the old
+factories, where, some quarter of a century before, when in command of
+the _Dido_, I had passed many pleasant days. Not a vestige remains to
+indicate the site.
+
+Accompanying the captain round the decks and among the various groups
+of Chinamen, some gambling, others opium-smoking, we came to the
+women’s department, old and young, with children of various ages--some
+at the breast. In the fore part of all I observed three old hags of
+repulsive aspect; some had three or four infants slung around them,
+varying in age from two months to a year. These, I found, were for
+sale, a ready market being found among the less poor Chinawomen of
+Hong-Kong; the price asked me for the finest was four dollars, but that
+was an exorbitant demand. How the old hags came by the children is all
+conjecture.
+
+[Sidenote: Hong-Kong, May 18.]
+
+Returned to Hong-Kong. In the afternoon accompanied the Governor to
+visit Stone Cutter’s Island, on which his predecessor had built a
+magnificent prison, but which, owing to the energetic measures lately
+adopted for ridding the island of bad characters and marking the worst
+in the face and publicly scourging those that return, crime has so
+much diminished that the prison in Hong-Kong is found sufficient to
+accommodate those that require such lodgings.
+
+His Excellency’s visit on this occasion was to ascertain the opinion
+of the Commodore and myself as to the feasibility of transferring
+the naval establishment to the island. The position would have been
+good had it been selected at first, but as £200,000 has been laid out
+on the one in Victoria the Board of Admiralty would not be likely
+to sanction the extra expense. There is no doubt that the naval and
+military establishments in Victoria are considerable obstructions to
+the improvement of the city, and prevent the continuation of a sea
+or harbour frontage and sea wall, with a road, or praya, which is
+intersected for more than 3000 feet at the part occupied by us and the
+military.
+
+[Sidenote: May 23.]
+
+_Pearl_ being ready for sea the flag was shifted from the _Princess
+Charlotte_ to her.
+
+[Sidenote: May 24.]
+
+Being Her Majesty’s Birthday the ships were dressed with masthead
+flags, and at noon a general royal salute was fired, batteries and
+ourselves, the reports sounding with great effect under the high land.
+Soirée at Government House, everybody attending.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Pearl_, May 27.]
+
+Embarked on board _Pearl_, when I was received with manned yards, to
+visit different parts of the station. _Salamis_ still under repair. At
+2 P.M. returned the Commodore’s salute and steamed out of Hong-Kong
+by the Cap Sing Moon passage, having been a month most kindly and
+hospitably entertained by John Dent and his cheery and good partner
+Oberbeck.
+
+[Sidenote: Swatow, May 28.]
+
+We arrived early off Swatow, but having to wait for water over the bar
+came to outside. It was 9 P.M. before we brought up off the Consul’s
+house, on the right bank and opposite side to the town. These Swatow
+Chinese are a turbulent and troublesome set, hardly yet accustomed
+to the sojourn among them of the hated barbarian. An attempt made by
+a Mr. Richardson to establish in a house he had built and furnished
+a few miles up the river was opposed by the natives, over whom the
+authorities appear to have little or no control. They damaged the
+house, carried off the furniture, and ill-treated Mr. Richardson’s
+servants. The gunboat _Drake_ had gone up to look after other matters.
+The Consul, Mr. Caine, was absent, and the duty done by his Vice, Mr.
+Cooper, who hailed from Norfolk, and had a pretty wife and a boy nearly
+as fine as my Colin.
+
+We exchanged visits, the Consul getting his salute. Swatow is an
+uninteresting place to the visitor, but an extensive trade is carried
+on from a large city some distance up, Ch’ao-Chow-fu. In the month of
+March last the U.S. barque _Rover_ sailed from Swatow, got into a gale
+off Formosa, struck on a rock, made more water than the pumps could
+keep under, when the captain and crew took to the boats and saw their
+ship founder.
+
+The captain had his wife and first mate with him and a Chinese crew, in
+another boat was a mate and also a Chinese crew. The boats separated,
+and after a while the captain landed on the southern coast of Formosa,
+and while preparing a meal was attacked. They retreated to hide
+themselves in the jungle, and all were supposed to have been murdered
+with the exception of one Chinaman, who hid himself until dark and then
+found his way to a China village some twelve miles off.
+
+He subsequently reached Amoy, where he found no American man-of-war, so
+went to the _Cormorant_ and stated the above facts to Commander Broad,
+who lost no time in proceeding to the spot; he found the _Rover’s_ boat
+where her captain had left her, but on attempting a further examination
+he was fired on from the jungle. His boat was shot through and one
+man wounded. Unable to see his foe, after sending a few rounds into
+the jungle he wisely withdrew. The United States Admiral sent a small
+vessel, which could get no satisfaction, and consequently could give
+none to the friends of the missing captain and his wife.
+
+[Sidenote: Swatow, May 29.]
+
+During the afternoon of the Wednesday an old American acquaintance
+of former years at Whampoa, Mr. Botefuhr, came on board to solicit
+interference and assistance from me, which he stated he had in vain
+applied for to his own Admiral. Botefuhr’s wife is sister to the wife
+of the captain of the _Rover_, and although it is known that many were
+killed there is as yet no positive proof that the captain and his wife
+were slain. My poor friend clung to the hope that the savages would not
+have the heart to murder one so fair as his sister-in-law, who was so
+young, and, as he described her, “only a few months married, comely to
+look on, and of nice proportions.” It is difficult for me to interfere
+without causing jealousy on the part of the United States Admiral. My
+friend, Botefuhr, has already drawn comparisons not complimentary to
+his countryman.
+
+[Sidenote: May 30.]
+
+Started in charge of a pilot, a European, of whom there are seven, at
+10 A.M., having crossed the bar, found the wind fresh from the N.E.,
+and shaped our course inside the Namoa Island, during daylight the
+pleasantest route; finding the wind freshening we brought up for the
+night in Tong Sang, a well-sheltered anchorage.
+
+[Sidenote: May 31.]
+
+Weather fine, at 5 A.M. steamed out; performed the 74 miles to Amoy
+with three boilers in seven hours.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXVII
+
+NORTH CHINA PORTS
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1867. Amoy, May 31.]
+
+At Amoy we found the _Cormorant_, a pretty fast despatch gunboat,
+Commander Broad, whose master came with him and piloted us to a berth
+in the inner harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own smart
+master, who might have made a mistake in the passage between the
+town and the island of Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was
+celebrated for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of course there are
+many others, but none to be compared to it.
+
+The trade here, although one of the first ports open to foreigners, is
+not equal to Swatow. It is one of the outlets for the enormous province
+of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a rare animal here in the
+shape of a really _active_ Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of
+his station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, place and
+opportunity offering, his cruisers are not above levying blackmail.
+A good dock, 286 feet long, and capable, owing to a great rise and
+fall of tide, of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which the
+_Cormorant_ will go on Tuesday next for repairs. Our Consul appears
+to be conspicuously and well-housed on the highest part of Kulangsau,
+commanding a view both up and down the river. On this island most
+Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town of Amoy. Coal to be
+had, and always ready, but the coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or
+twelve-ton boats.
+
+[Sidenote: June 1.]
+
+French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. A wonderful change is
+here! No news of importance. Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations
+hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but those armed to
+the teeth are not so easily kept in check. The only really sad news
+from England is the continued suffering of that most amiable of all
+Princesses.
+
+Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on board him by a
+suspicious-looking junk, manned and armed for war, but there was no
+proof of aggression.
+
+[Sidenote: June 3.]
+
+Inspected _Cormorant_ at 10 A.M. In excellent order. Received with
+manned yards. No room for ball practice, but clear for action, and guns
+loaded within three minutes. Noon.--Weighed in _Pearl_ and steamed out,
+two boilers. An old _St. Jean d’Acre_, Shearman, chief engineer.
+
+[Sidenote: June 4.]
+
+In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and a pilot shortly on
+board. Although we made sail, we were too late to save the high water
+over the bar; brought up until the morning. While at anchor observed
+numbers of curious-looking snakes floating past; they did not appear
+lively, and the pilot pronounced them to have been washed out of the
+paddyfields. Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared more dead than
+alive, and it was with difficulty that we discovered its mouth and
+something like eyes; it was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and
+as transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was a piece of
+seaweed, even after handling.
+
+The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at different parts of
+the body it had the appearance of having been ripped in two by a piece
+of thread tied round the body. Some one on board had read in some book
+that if you broke these snakes at their apparent joints, each piece
+became a separate snake. The head was considerably thicker than the
+other part of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While moving
+in the water it looked like a lively and dangerous animal, but in a
+basin of water it was almost inanimate.
+
+[Sidenote: June 5.]
+
+Soon after 9 A.M. weighed and steamed into the entrance of the river
+Min. Carrying the tide with us, we made rapid progress through a
+tortuous channel until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu
+Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the scenery, which again
+opens into a wide expanse for three or four miles, and then the channel
+enters between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of the
+scenery on the Rhine.
+
+Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, where we anchored. The
+city of Foo-chow is some ten miles higher up, but to be approached only
+by small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships started last
+year, performing the most extraordinary sea race on record, the three
+ships arriving in London within a few hours of each other. Several
+are now loading and two or three are already off--beautiful ships,
+reminding one of fine old sailing days of _Dido_, which class of ship
+they greatly resemble.
+
+[Sidenote: June 7.]
+
+On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and steered for the
+Yang-tse-Kiang.
+
+[Sidenote: June 9.]
+
+Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we came to in the evening
+off Woosung, doubtful whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we
+could proceed over the bar.
+
+[Sidenote: June 10.]
+
+Having transported some of the guns forward, we crossed the bar and
+steamed up to Shanghai.
+
+[Sidenote: Shanghai.]
+
+Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five years ago. It
+is difficult to recognise the Chinese element at all in this great
+commercial port; even the pilots are European. The buildings, roads,
+carriages, consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those vessels
+propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide from sight that Shanghai
+still belongs to China. French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are
+here. No saluting on account of close quarters.
+
+Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George Fitzroy and his wife,
+having known him from the time he was of the same age as a sweet little
+girl resembling what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is
+what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. Although requiring
+quiet, had not time to frame an excuse before I found myself engaged to
+dine with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford Alcock,
+who is here making his annual tour of visits to the Consulates at the
+Treaty Ports; with him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman
+of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government to inspect and report
+on all buildings within its jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial,
+or military; also my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most
+efficient scholar and interpreter in China.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Rattler_, June 11.]
+
+A court-martial detained the _Pearl_ and _Rattler_ (in charge of
+station). _Argus_ also here, attending on the Minister, with a new
+commander just appointed in Hallowes.
+
+_Algerine_, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, will proceed
+south as soon as her commander is clear of the doctor. We have also
+_Acorn_, hospital ship, Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.
+
+[Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago]
+
+[Sidenote: June 13.]
+
+Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at Consulate on Tuesday, was
+pleased at meeting Sir Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit
+to Peking.
+
+We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away from any river
+frontage, and as inconveniently situated as a place of the sort could
+be. An advantageous sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site,
+might now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with the necessary
+power.
+
+The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised me some good shooting,
+three days’ journey from this, in the proper season, after September.
+Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. Independent of the
+ruin of so many poorer people, that of John Dent causes universal
+sympathy and regret.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Manila_, June 15.]
+
+Shifted flag from _Rattler_ on board _Manila_. At noon sailed, having
+written the Commodore of my intention to go to Nagasaki, which may
+reach Hong-Kong in time to save his going to Shanghai. Yesterday the
+Fitzroys had a dinner party, including the Minister, the _attaché_,
+Conolly, Wade, and Commander Swan. Birds’-nest soup.
+
+[Illustration: _Sir Rutherford Alcock._]
+
+Had conversation with Sir Rutherford as to the next steps towards
+the suppression of piracy. We agreed that the disarming, as far as
+heavy guns were concerned, of all traders was necessary. He thought
+the Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed wish to put it
+down. The promised co-operation with other European Powers is necessary
+to prevent jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence of
+a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable interpreters
+should be found for our cruisers.
+
+After I have consulted with my brother Admirals of France and United
+States, Russia, Prussia and Netherlands too, if I can get them,
+intend to address Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do
+likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford agreed with
+me that the small Portuguese settlement of Macao was a nuisance--the
+haunt of pirates: the centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped
+coolies, worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, the
+Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.
+
+To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about the middle of
+September, so as to have a walk on the hills where all the Foreign
+Ministers reside during the hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the
+last week in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that he could
+easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the species of pheasant so
+coveted by Lord de Grey.
+
+[Sidenote: Nagasaki, June 18.]
+
+Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki.
+Feeling still invalidy, took advantage of a lull to land in a boat
+brought off from shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his
+prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a hill. Flag was
+shifted to _Pelorus_.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Pelorus_, June 30.]
+
+On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding party of
+six--Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and self--and landed where
+the ponies had been sent, and rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing
+can be prettier than the scenery, while every available flat was
+under cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud banks,
+were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives simple and civil to a
+degree. The village, prettily situated on the bank of what appeared to
+be an inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies were entire
+and savage, kicking each other whenever opportunity offered; roads not
+much near Nagasaki, but particularly good when we got within Prince of
+Omera’s territory.
+
+Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against his will. On our
+return, tide being out and boat unable to come up to the spot at which
+we disembarked, we rode home through the town, the most curious feature
+of the ride being the facility with which the ponies travelled up and
+down a steep flight of stone steps.
+
+Had one short afternoon in the china and curio shops. Market in
+everything spoilt since the influx of Europeans; prices higher, and
+china, particularly that called the egg china, much inferior to what
+I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau gave me a magnificent
+specimen of the teredo or borer--the largest I have seen.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, June 26.]
+
+On the 26th _Salamis_ arrived, having the Commodore on board on leave.
+Shifted flag. The pending troubles in Japan appear to have excited
+the Saimonirai to renewed animosity against Europeans, and it became
+necessary to restrict the leave of the men, and to oblige officers to
+carry revolvers. I think my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob
+Crosbie, are now alive owing to this precaution; for one afternoon,
+returning in company from the native town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded
+man, heated by liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to draw
+his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its appearance, and the Saimonirai
+swaggered past. A few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot
+pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had cut down some people
+in the settlement, and the Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with
+his life.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_. Inland Sea.]
+
+4 A.M.--Weighed; dirty weather. So left the pretty scenery to keep for
+some more auspicious day. Made for Spex Straits, through which passage
+nothing can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting country,
+with--apparently--everything within itself, while the wants of the
+natives are few, and all appear happy and contented; a state of things
+to which the boasted superiority and civilisation of the European will
+speedily put an end.
+
+Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, but beyond a few
+bullocks and buffaloes as beasts of burthen, and for agricultural
+purposes, cattle are not required by these simple people. They look
+strong and healthy, but eat no meat.
+
+On emerging from these narrow and winding Straits, in which there is
+depth of water for the largest ships, we made the entrance to the
+Inland Sea through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept off,
+and the sea without a ripple, the _Salamis_ made light work. As we
+entered the Straits, in addition to the ever-changing scene of hills
+and valleys, wood and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the
+scent of flowers was wafted off.
+
+[Sidenote: July 1.]
+
+Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and steamed through the
+Straits; a strong tide against us gave time to enjoy the scenery
+and examine the numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving,
+departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. After passing
+these we came to the dismantled batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince
+of Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the Inland Sea against
+all foreigners, but which in 1863 Admiral Kuper, assisted by the
+French, proved to the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated
+that the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement which has
+been strictly adhered to. After passing the Straits and the weather
+continuing dirty we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to off a
+large fishing village.
+
+[Sidenote: Inland Sea, July 2.]
+
+Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward through this beautiful
+Inland Sea, altering course occasionally as we threaded our way between
+the islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south side of Cape
+Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing village, but the boats had
+not come in. Tried our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without
+success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards on board with much
+coquetting,--simple, quiet, good sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve
+and a helix that must have been washed from the land by the rains; with
+more time some fine shells might be collected.
+
+[Sidenote: July 3.]
+
+4.30.--Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing islands on both sides
+with all the appearance of a pretty, moving panorama--water perfectly
+smooth. Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while others were
+under their grotesque but picturesque sails.
+
+[Sidenote: July 4.]
+
+4.30 A.M.--Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, it being just before
+the time of high water, met the last of the flood, and passed through
+the Naruto (Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the S.E.
+Coming into the open we met a strong breeze and head sea. By the
+morning we had again run into fine weather.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama to Yedo, July 5.]
+
+At 4 P.M. we came to in Yokohama, but on receiving a letter from Sir
+Harry Parkes, inviting self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again
+and ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and five minutes.
+The French admiral, Rose, in the _Guerinere_, had saluted my flag as
+soon as they could well make it out. _Perseus_ returned, _Basilisk_
+and two gunboats in the anchorage. Commander Stevens ill on shore in
+hospital. Several men-of-war of various descriptions, wearing the
+Government flag of the Tycoon, or more properly Shogoon, which I trust
+we shall have the means of licking into shape. The British Government
+well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, who appears to be very properly
+and prettily mated, with three children here and two at home, one of
+those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my Colin.
+
+[Illustration: _Harry Parkes._]
+
+[Sidenote: Yedo, July 10.]
+
+Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister for Foreign Affairs,
+an office lately decided upon, at the instigation of Sir Harry. We
+formed a respectable _cortège_. The Minister with his staff of three,
+Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and self. Orders--cocked hats
+and side arms. We were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of
+eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear of all was brought up
+by a native guard, mounted on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had
+been given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity exhibited.
+Our route to the castle lay through some three miles of town. We were
+properly received. Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience
+chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors provided. Tea, tobacco,
+saki, pipes and sweetmeats.
+
+Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, about the weather;
+then, naval matters, site for the buildings, for the instructing
+officer to live in, assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a
+couple of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.
+
+Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like bearing of these Japanese
+officials. Their costume dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in
+case of the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return to Yokohama, my
+visit was returned this morning by the minister and officials connected
+with the Naval Department.
+
+[Sidenote: Yedo, July 11.]
+
+We had another ride yesterday, as we have had each day, through this
+wonderful and interesting city. We rode to the bridge, from which
+distances to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the outer mole,
+through such pretty scenery of water, green banks and trees, that after
+having made a tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult to
+believe that we had never been outside the town of Yedo. During the day
+the following little event unfortunately occurred:--
+
+The minister is not allowed to move without being followed by a dozen
+of these ragamuffin guards, which the Japanese Government maintain are
+necessary for his protection, but which are nothing more than mounted
+spies--now and then, when we were trotting, one of these fellows would
+pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. Each day some of
+them had been checked and ordered back to their places in the rear; but
+yesterday one of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence is not
+known, dashed past me, and was stopped by Sir Harry Parkes, who applied
+the crop of a heavy hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same
+over the head of the officer or man in charge, threatening to serve him
+out also if he did not keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then
+made one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native squad of twelve
+into a side road; one that led to the inner route. They scampered off,
+a ridiculous and ignominious retreat.
+
+However, before we got home, we saw four following, but at so
+respectable a distance that a looker-on could not have discovered that
+we were the objects of their observation. The only pity was, that the
+minister did not leave the dirty work of inflicting the chastisement
+to one of the orderlies or one of his staff, who all looked as if they
+would have liked the fun.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama, July 22.]
+
+At sea in the _Salamis_, _Serpent_, surveying vessel, Captain Bullock,
+in company. Sir Harry Parkes to follow in _Basilisk_. Our object to
+meet at Hakodadi, then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide
+on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, with calls to make,
+visitors to receive, exercise to take, curio shops, etc., is not the
+place to keep up a journal. After six days at Yedo, partaking of the
+hospitality of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the _Salamis_ arrived and
+took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly called on by the French
+Admiral Rose, one of the most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of
+staff, Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same stamp.
+
+I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, on whom, I
+was informed, I ought to call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared
+to be, as described by his countryman Rose, more of the Zouave Colonel
+than the Diplomatist. There is more to see and be amused with in
+Yokohama than at most places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant
+marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes the society and place
+most agreeable is the presence of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk
+Regiment), commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me a grand
+entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were made honorary members of
+their mess. Then a party was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,”
+a Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from the garrison, the
+distance about 15 miles. Ponies were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W.
+Davison, P. and O. Agent, mounting me.
+
+[Sidenote: July 24.]
+
+We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was performed Indian file, one
+of the officers of 9th, well acquainted with the roads, leading the
+way; but what made the single file more necessary was the viciousness
+of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately refused every attempt on our
+part to get them to associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and
+a kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a moment thrown off
+your guard by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which for constant
+variety I never saw equalled.
+
+About three hours brought us to the once celebrated (in Japanese
+annals) city, now village, of Kama Kura, passing through which, and by
+the entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we came to the
+end of a straight bit of road where a path turns off abruptly to the
+right, leading to the famous bronze statue, but here we dismounted to
+examine the spot and have again described to us the cruel murder which
+took place in 1864 of two fine young fellows of the 20th Regiment,
+Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some fanatical
+Yakonie, while returning from a visit to the Great Bhudda.
+
+The assassins were eventually executed in front of the English camp;
+one of them requesting to chaunt a song before being executed, prided
+himself on what he had done and would do again if he lived, and
+cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would take the country from
+them. Had this fellow died fighting he might have been a patriot; as it
+was, he and another committed a most dastardly murder on two unarmed
+gentlemen by lying in ambush and striking behind.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXVIII
+
+DAIBOOTZ
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1867. July 24.]
+
+We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving our ponies, entered
+a shrubbery by a path which, taking a turn to the left, brought us
+suddenly, at the distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz
+himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built, not cast, of
+sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully put together that joints
+are imperceptible at first from the outside. It is only on going inside
+that you see how it was riveted, in much the same way as we should
+(forgive the comparison) a huge boiler. The inside, too, has been
+desecrated by the usual number of Saxon names.
+
+Several of our military friends, who had previously seen this gigantic
+statue, advised our not taking our eyes from the ground until close up
+to it, but that is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it
+is only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of the whole
+figure. The rising ground and green foliage at the back add much to
+the effect, and the best view is that which the people who erected it
+intended you should have, by the turn given to the path when it first
+appears in view.
+
+On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman, the largest of the
+hundred in the neighbourhood. It is curious and handsome. The site,
+too, as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well chosen
+for its picturesque situation, as well as for the view to be obtained
+from it. But these temples are the work of men’s hands, and not to be
+compared with the beautiful scenery through which we afterwards passed
+on our return home, by another route.
+
+About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa, situated on the edge
+of a circular and nearly land-locked bay of the same name. At one of
+the clean and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most excellent
+luncheon, sent early and provided by the messman of the 9th, to which
+ample justice was done by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a
+ride home in the cool of the evening.
+
+A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution in the political
+state of the Japanese and their feelings towards foreigners. We appear
+to be welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper, especially by the
+lower orders.
+
+The Daimios, who would a few years ago have put their Shogoon to death
+for entertaining the idea of permitting foreigners to trade, are now
+quarrelling among themselves as to whose port shall be the first opened
+to trade. These feudal chiefs are tenacious of their independence, and
+no longer live with a portion of their family within the precincts of
+the castle and moat at Yedo, but excuse themselves by stating that
+troublous times oblige them to keep their retainers with them and ready.
+
+They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing will tend more to
+sap and explode the whole feudal system than the introduction of the
+foreigner with our free notions, although differing materially from
+one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending to undermine a
+system similar to our ancient feudalism.
+
+The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions on commerce and
+despotic governments, are the loudest in their call for Free Trade,
+and were the first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to the
+foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed by force of arms,
+will allow herself to be second to none in free intercourse with the
+Japanese. Holland no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the
+whole trade; and, unable to compete with other nations in free notions
+of commerce, is fast retiring from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia
+seems afraid of contamination with any traders. England, I believe,
+while she feels the hardship of enforcing our trade on these primitive
+and would-be exclusive people, is obliged to go with the stream, and
+as yet enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain ports are
+open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and others are to be opened in
+January 1868.
+
+The apple of discord has been thrown among these warlike Daimios, who,
+finding that their whole strength united can no longer keep out the
+foreigner, are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves. Several
+of these princes are far more powerful than the Tycoon himself, but the
+Tycoon is nominally the head of the Government, and each quarrel among
+the Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at Osaka, ready
+to put down any single-handed Daimio, some of whom have threatened
+hostilities, fancying themselves aggrieved in not having been
+sufficiently consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether
+matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine.
+
+As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for Foreign Affairs,
+I have seen none of their great men. The French, who, through their
+Minister, it is said, have got contracts for building docks and
+clothing the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of money
+in the country, so much so, that in case of civil war their interest
+will be to support the Tycoon, and they would persuade him that by a
+powerful army alone can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent
+chiefs. _Our_ advice is to get up a respectable navy and make timely
+concessions. With their splendid harbours, mineral wealth, and vast
+resources, the Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation; while,
+beyond working artillery for their batteries, their soldiers will only
+weaken their resources and cut one another’s throats. What different
+views different people take!
+
+But to return to where the journal places us at sea after leaving
+Yokohama.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 22.]
+
+_Serpent_ led the way into Sendai Bay; she having communicated with
+some native fishermen found no safe entrance into the inner bay of
+Matsu Sima; so, to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood
+out again and found our way to the northward of an island, for which,
+as yet, we have no name, and stood on until we gradually shoaled our
+water to four fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came to for
+the night, perfectly secure against any wind.
+
+[Sidenote: July 23.]
+
+Weighed at 8.30 and followed the _Serpent_ round Sendai Bay, when I
+signalled her to pass through an inviting-looking passage formed by
+the mainland and Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with the
+beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent civilisation, that we
+determined on landing, and came to for the night. On the left the hills
+had been cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals, were
+seen in different directions. On the right was a beautifully wooded
+island, with herds of deer feeding in the cleared spaces. Guns were
+immediately got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s
+sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to get permission from
+certain houses we saw peeping through the trees.
+
+Our messenger was forestalled by the going on board the _Serpent_ of a
+priest who informed them that the island was sacred and dedicated to
+the Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and never killed, and
+that not so much as a stone was ever permitted to be removed; in fact,
+that any one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would surely die.
+He said there was gold among the sand on the east side, but that was
+guarded by a great serpent. A party went on shore at the invitation of
+the priests, and while they were inspecting the interior of the temple
+a fine stag walked in and ate several sheets of white paper from the
+hands of the strangers. None of the deer are ever killed, nor is one
+allowed to pick up the antlers they shed, which were seen lying about.
+
+The Commodore and self landed on the opposite shore to inspect the more
+wild-looking horses. These we found as tame as the deer. They were but
+ponies, but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing the hills I
+put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay there were others. The covert was
+good, but we had neither guns nor dogs.
+
+On returning on board I found the priests, who had ascertained
+who I was, waiting to receive me. They appeared poor, civil and
+good-tempered, bringing an offering of small fans, descriptions on
+paper of their temple and island, also some nasty drink called saki.
+They seemed to enjoy some champagne! Should there ever be hostilities
+between us I shall know where to find some good fat venison. We weighed
+again before midnight and followed the _Serpent_ to the northward.
+
+[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, July 24.]
+
+10.30.--Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour, when _Serpent_ led us
+into as beautiful a haven as can well be imagined. Land high, bold,
+and wooded on both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water, as
+signalled from _Serpent_, gradually decreasing from 50 fathoms, but too
+deep for anchoring for full 3 miles, and it was not until we had made a
+turn to the westward, and were completely land-locked that we got any
+soundings with the hand leads. Scenery such as Rio Harbour would be if
+the blue mountains were brought closer.
+
+We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, close off a
+considerable fishing village called Yamaba. Natives appeared nervous
+and cautious at first, but gained confidence when they found the
+Japanese officers on board the _Serpent_. A seining party landed on a
+low sandy island and caught some small but sweet fish; some of them
+had the peculiarity of not spawning like most fish, but of producing a
+number of little plump fish like themselves, about 2 inches long, that
+swam and cut about as if they had never been confined!
+
+On returning on board I found that the head of the village had sent
+his small present on board of stinking salt fish. The gunning party
+had shot ducks and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season: the
+natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the game between the
+months of March and September. Had we given permission, our decks would
+have been crowded with the villagers from morning till night, but we
+allowed them on board only occasionally for an hour.
+
+[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, Japan, July 25.]
+
+Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly japanned little tub,
+two parcels of the dried sea-slug or _bêche de mer_, done up in paper
+bags on a japanned tray, were brought off by the principal traders of
+the place. Mr. Aston came from the _Serpent_ to interpret; they smoked
+their pipes. I gave them a couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne,
+and wrote my name on their fans; they went away delighted.
+
+Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine swan, and Pusey had
+killed an animal the doctor pronounced to be a fennec; it was very
+savage, and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after having been
+badly wounded; it had a small foxy head, a short brush, and hair long,
+like some Scotch terriers. He was not sweet!
+
+Leaving the _Serpent_ to sound round this splendid harbour,
+particularly one of refuge should a vessel be caught in those gales so
+prevalent on this coast in winter months, at 10 A.M. we cleared from
+the numerous native boats and steamed out of the harbour. Weather and
+climate much the same as in our own dear isle at this time of year.
+
+[Sidenote: Hakodadi, July 26.]
+
+In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly breeze, and that,
+with a lee set, obliged us to get steam up in the other two boilers. We
+came to in Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese junks with
+but few European vessels. There is not much to attract in the town,
+shops containing nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was
+immediately formed to start on the morrow for the Lake Cuoma, situated
+beyond the hills that rise from the plain. On the north side of the
+harbour, at a distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the sea on
+the east side was said to be full of salmon and trout.
+
+The European residents were particularly kind in providing us with
+ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly offered to accompany us.
+Half a dozen pack ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and
+a change of clothes; these were to have started some hours in advance,
+but the usual mistakes were made of not equally dividing the packages,
+and after landing, beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller
+loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs.
+
+It was a little after noon that our party of seven, in addition to
+servants, got fairly under weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores
+of the harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly
+begins to rise towards the mountains, over which our route lay.
+
+The Commodore and self were properly mounted on the steadiest of the
+ponies, although mine, “Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk,
+with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson, who had but once
+before been in a saddle, was on an amorous pony that endeavoured to
+get at every herd of brood mares, of which there were many feeding on
+the plain, and at last got into difficulties by meeting two mares and
+a foal just as they were crossing the road from their straw-yard. A
+scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean over, while the other
+two pawed and bit each other savagely.
+
+The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then there was a chevy over
+the plain to separate the combatants and catch the runaway! As we
+approached the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and were
+obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was going to take us and return
+to the beaten track. The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous
+rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary ponies
+scampered along considerably faster than I liked or could help, without
+a fall, although with frequent slips of a yard or two.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+    _From a Sketch by Commodore Jones, 1867._
+
+_Crossing a River in Japan._]
+
+On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which showed like a gap in
+the mountain, the mist held up and gave us a view of the plain we had
+traversed, with Hakodadi and the sea in the background, which has not
+been inaptly compared to Gibraltar, as seen from Spain. On the other
+side we have a view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the
+distance smoking.
+
+We had started too late to reach the fishing stream, so pushed on to a
+tea-house on the north side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here
+we did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed ourselves, as I
+fancy only sailors can; at least we do not get enough of this sort of
+life to make us indifferent to its (to me) many charms!
+
+[Sidenote: July 27.]
+
+The next morning we started for another of these comfortable and
+convenient tea-houses, situated on the shore of Volcano Bay, near the
+mouth of the Salmon River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some 4
+miles above and fish their way down. Luckily, the party who led did not
+know the intended spot, and continued on until they reached the house
+at which we intended to rest. This brought the whole party on, when it
+was ascertained that we were two months too early for salmon, and there
+was not a trout left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was
+increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the _Serpent_.
+
+The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our enjoyment. We were
+all early in the saddle. Started on our return by 9 A.M., a lovely and
+refreshing morning with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to
+the plain on the other side the wind got up and the rain came down as
+it can in this country. But the comforts of home on board with a warm
+bath made the rain only another variety in our fun.
+
+[Sidenote: July 29.]
+
+We found a French man-of-war, _La Place_, from Yokohama, probably
+sent to see what we were after. She landed two ugly priests, anxious
+to commence their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat _Garnastai_,
+commanded by a fine fellow, Count Lütkee, his mother English, also from
+Yokohama, on his way north. I had to receive visits from the Governor
+and Lieutenant-Governor--two gentleman-like, agreeable fellows.
+
+Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred Howard and look at his
+curios. A nice collection of bronzes as well as pictures and small
+ivories. A small collection of shells!
+
+[Sidenote: July 30.]
+
+After having received and paid above visits and invited Mr. Mitford of
+the Legation to come with us, at 5 P.M. weighed, with the intention of
+inspecting the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at Twanai, and
+then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: the necessity of economising
+fuel not permitting _Serpent_ and _Basilisk_ accompanying us.
+
+[Sidenote: Twanai, July 31.]
+
+As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which Captain Bullock had
+marked as about the spot we should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the
+number of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he observed a
+boat coming out from the village we least expected, and Mitford soon
+recognised his friend Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the
+contract from the Tycoon Government to work the coal-mine so many
+years. We found no shelter near the village.
+
+[Sidenote: Yesso Island.]
+
+Opposite the valley up which the principal mine is situated, the coast
+is rocky, but the season being fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the
+village of Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. The town
+and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, when worked, must be sent for
+re-shipment, is seven miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour,
+but with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; with six or seven
+fathoms inside.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER LXXXIX
+
+THE CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1867. Flag in _Salamis_, July 31.]
+
+We had heard much of the bears in this island of Yesso, and Mr. Gower
+was pressed for information. There were plenty of them, and two had
+been down for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, only
+half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish.
+
+Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained a guide, undertook
+to lie in wait for these bears; he found their traces, the marks where
+they had removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently remained
+until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an appearance. Pusey was,
+however, sanguine enough to try again the following night, with same
+success: the whole country round was either covered by forest or was
+one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, from which it would
+have been impossible to have dislodged any game.
+
+During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather permitting, to
+remain, one was to be devoted to a ride to Juranai, where we were to
+see the aborigines, the other to visit the coal-mines.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]
+
+We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to Gower’s house, where he and
+his friends, the Japanese officers, had provided ponies. Another party
+had gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two miles to the
+eastward, up which we had heard of trout and salmon. Our ride, although
+hot, was an agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our party of
+Mitford. On arrival we found the Japanese Governor, a man of no great
+rank, had kindly provided a feast at his residence. The Japanese are
+proverbial for their cleanliness, and floors covered with mats. We
+found this second to none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before
+entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the exception of sweetmeats
+and cakes, a Japanese feast is a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish,
+uncooked ditto, and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate.
+
+We walked afterwards to that part of the village where the Jonos dwell.
+They are an extraordinary-looking race; short and square built, but the
+great peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends to their
+face and body. Their houses were cleaner than other savages, but that
+is probably owing to the force of example set them by the Japanese.
+They live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are allowed to do
+under certain restrictions. One is that the skins are sold to the
+Government. Each village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off
+which they eventually have a grand feast and consume much saki.
+
+The only curio obtained was one presented to me by the chief--a slip
+of wood, the size of a large paper-cutter, but carved on it were the
+figures of a Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of fish
+and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument was to lift the hair
+of the upper lip so as to clear the way for the bowl of saki, which
+it was essential should be drank at the feast of the bear. During the
+operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet for the feast, the
+old women are allowed to howl and cry.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, Aug. 1.]
+
+I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the Commodore
+preferred trying their hand at the salmon, which were just arriving on
+the coast.
+
+An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a valley down which
+a small rivulet runs, and up which the tram or railway is being
+constructed, brought us to the coal-mine, into which--more to please
+Mr. Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting--I crept,
+half-doubled, through mud and water. After expressing my satisfaction,
+and taking a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered with
+timber and brushwood, and rendered still more interesting to Mr. Gower
+by the vast seams of coal underneath, the line of which he seemed to
+know as exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we wended our way
+back on foot, collecting several specimens of the land helix.
+
+When we got back, a swell from westward had set the _Salamis_ rolling,
+and made us anxious about the party who had crossed the bar to fish
+the river. About 7 P.M. they were seen coming off, but not without
+having been swamped, with the loss of rods and other gear. A heavy
+roller filled the boat. They wisely sat still until the two following
+waves had broken over them, and then jumped out and hauled their boat.
+They were assisted by the kind natives, who refused any remuneration
+for their trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging friend, Mr.
+Gower, who, after having come on board to see me off, hurried on shore
+again to send assistance over the hills to the missing fishing party.
+We got under way at 7 P.M., and proceeded to the southward under easy
+steam.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
+
+Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two steamers, which proved
+to be the _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_, preparing to take their departure
+from Nigata; but making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock having
+left with us directions where our boats might safely cross the bar,
+they left soon after daylight.
+
+[Sidenote: Nigata, Japan, Aug. 5.]
+
+Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, about three miles
+from the mouth. It belongs to the Tycoon, and but for the insuperable
+objection to a bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in
+the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been one of the new
+Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a large trade with junks.
+
+The Governor had sent off officers with the usual compliments, whom we
+met as we proceeded on shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30,
+fearing the Governor might have come off to wait upon me himself, but I
+believe he had no intention of doing anything of the sort. The officers
+we met turned about and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but
+never left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, but under
+the happy delusion that we imagined them to be a guard of honour!
+However, they did not molest or interfere.
+
+Our object was to see the town and shops, and they took us to them.
+The town is clean, intersected by canals, and the population, although
+naturally anxious to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way.
+On our way back we were requested to visit a rather imposing temple,
+but thinking it was an attempt to get me to call on the Governor,
+whose duty it was to wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their
+explaining that if I would walk in and partake of refreshment, the
+Governor would call on me there, I went back.
+
+Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and after we had had some
+tea and fruit, and had waited about a quarter of an hour, the mob at
+the entrance gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in advance,
+announcing the Governor’s approach. He arrived, mounted on a remarkably
+nice strong pony, but dismounted at the end of the road and approached
+on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive him. The usual
+commonplace conversation took place as to weather. How old we were, and
+how well we all looked; all of which was taken down in writing, before
+we took our departure. I was rather struck with the appearance of the
+Governor, apparently superior in intellect to the generality of his
+countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty.
+
+We got under way at 3 P.M., intending, according to agreement with Sir
+Harry Parkes, to go to Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end
+of the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing the land, we
+made out our two consorts at anchor off a village, which proved to be
+Oda. We came to with them and remained for the night.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
+
+Weighed together at 5 A.M., Sir Harry having made arrangements to meet
+the Governor at Ongi, a small bay on the south-west side, and then to
+visit the gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on foot. I
+preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of hares and pheasants in
+abundance.
+
+We came to in a snug little port, which required some caution in
+approaching, but was protected by rocks sufficiently numerous and high
+to break the force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game
+produced many sportsmen, but the weather being sultry, vegetation high,
+and no dogs, I waited the result. The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2
+ducks, and 8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they came on
+board, and stood out under easy steam.
+
+[Sidenote: Manao, Aug. 7.]
+
+8 A.M.--Came to in four fathoms off Manao. Found a steamer with the
+Daimio Kaga’s flag flying. Hitherto we had visited only such ports as
+belonged to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of these feudal
+princes. Whether this will be the treaty port to be opened on the west
+coast, some one besides the Tycoon will have to be consulted.
+
+About midday _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_ arrived. The authorities on
+shore had sent off to the capital notice of the intended visit of our
+Minister. Prince Kaga had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition
+towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this, his Port of Manao,
+is the best situated and the finest harbour on the west coast. The
+other port of Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to the
+southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too near to Osaka. Nigata
+would do well if no vessels larger than junks wanted to enter the
+river: no safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully promised to
+open whatever port on the west coast we may decide on.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]
+
+It was on the morning of the third day, Friday 9th, that a dozen of
+the Daimio’s officers arrived, and immediately waited on Sir Harry
+Parkes on board the _Basilisk_. The interview was long, but not
+satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade they had, and did not
+wish theirs to be made a treaty port. They were very civil and polite.
+Their Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no one: no
+encouragement. But I have a great idea that our Minister will carry
+his point, although I do not see my way. Nothing would unite these
+Damios so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to coerce one
+of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a lesson. Seaton and Mitford were
+sent overland to Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey I
+should think. At 5 P.M. we got under way for Nagasti, to be followed by
+_Basilisk_. _Serpent_ left to survey the harbour.
+
+[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Aug. 12.]
+
+On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the cruel murder of two seaman
+of the _Icarus_, Lord Charles Scott. The poor fellows had fallen asleep
+outside a tea-house, when some passing Yakomins slashed their bodies
+with their two-handed swords, almost cutting them in two. My first step
+was to communicate the facts to the Hon. Minister in Japan, in the hope
+that the crime might be traced to its source. Suspicion fell on some of
+Prince Tosa’s retainers.
+
+[Illustration: _Charlie Scott._]
+
+Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of Awa. We were received
+in a magnificent feudal castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was
+accompanied by two or three members of the Legation, Suttie, Secretary
+and Flag-Lieutenant. On first arrival our presents were sent in, and
+then we were presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the Prince
+took the head of the table; his guests were arranged according to rank.
+Half-way down, the table was depressed some feet below the level of
+the upper table, and here his subordinate officers were entertained,
+illustrating the “below the salt” of our feudal times. The officer
+plied us with warm saki, but its effects showed sooner on our tempters
+than on ourselves.
+
+Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio, who welcomed us to his
+territory, and, pointing to a recess full of Japanese curios, expressed
+a hope we would take with us some specimens of the manufactures of the
+country, as indeed we did, none leaving without a present.
+
+Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course we could not
+follow. On retiring to rest we found that a four-poster bed had been
+rigged up for each of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and a
+pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table, the Prince having
+evidently been informed that such conditions were essential to the
+everyday life of an Englishman.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]
+
+Weighed and stood to the south-east.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
+
+Came to off entrance to the Peiho.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]
+
+Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the usual grounding at
+the bends and fouling of junks came to for the night.
+
+[Sidenote: Peking, Sept. 27.]
+
+Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. Received with the greatest
+kindness by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw
+much of Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not allowed.
+
+Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable riding excursion
+to the Great Wall of China. The party consisted of our Minister, Lady
+Alcock and her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of the
+Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and Harry Stephenson. Riding
+in easy stages, the native servants were always one stage ahead, so
+that on arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table arranged
+with every possible luxury. Striking almost due north we stopped for
+the night at Cha-ho. Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an
+avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in stone--elephants,
+camels, and horses; and that they were not without artistic merit is
+proved by the fact that some of our horses whinnied and approached
+these stone representations in evident recognition.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct.]
+
+We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode to Kou-li-yeng, our
+halting-place for the night. Next day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an
+admirable dinner.
+
+Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the turning-point for
+home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, Loo-shan, Niulang-shein,
+Saw-Chia-tieu and Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the
+hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement by an occasional
+raid on the wild geese and partridges met with on the road.
+
+I was much impressed by the evidence of former splendour and
+prosperity--temples carved in marble; baths fed by natural hot springs;
+all in decay and covered with dust inches thick, the collection of
+centuries--so much so, that names inscribed on the dust, with dates
+many years previously, were as sharply defined as if written yesterday.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]
+
+This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, calling _en route_
+at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, and we went south again, anchoring
+in Hong Kong on November 10, when I shifted the flag to _Princess
+Charlotte_. Then to Shanghai, where old memories and old friends
+clustered round me: the scene of many a stirring day in the _Dido_.
+Again to Japan, and further cruises on that beautiful and interesting
+coast.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XC
+
+THE OUTLOOK FOR THE NEW YEAR
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1868. Hiogo, Jan. 1.]
+
+Commencement of another year. My flag at the fore, flying on board
+_Rodney_ in Corvé Bay, near Hiogo. _Rodney_ nearly twelve months in
+commission, while I have been nine within the limits of the station,
+having assumed the Command-in-Chief at Singapore in March 1867.
+Thanks to the speed of the _Salamis_ I have been enabled to visit all
+the important points of the China and Japan part of this extensive
+station, besides paying an agreeable month’s visit to Peking and its
+neighbourhood. And I hope before leaving this part of the world to
+have a second peep at Nankin: four and twenty years since I was there
+in _Dido_. The event for which we have been preparing since my arrival
+has been the opening of Osaka, Hiogo, and other ports for commercial
+purposes.
+
+The necessity or advantage of opening these ports seems doubtful,
+but they were mentioned in the former treaty, and all the foreign
+ministers, however they may disagree on other points, seem united
+in the necessity of teaching the Japanese that treaties must be
+respected, and not lightly set aside. Owing to the political state
+of affairs in Japan, the weakness of the Tycoon power, and strength
+of the Independent Feudal Chiefs, as well as the uncertainty of the
+strength of two parties styled among themselves the “Admission” and
+“Expulsion” parties, it was deemed advisable to appear before Osaka
+and Hiogo with an imposing force. Our Minister, Sir Harry Parkes, had
+come from Yokohama in the _Adventure_ troopship, Captain Hickley,
+with a guard of fifty of the 9th Regiment, besides his twelve mounted
+policemen in Lancer costume, and a large staff with the Legation of
+Consuls and interpreters in addition to the Attaché. The Americans made
+a good display of pennants, but France, afloat, was represented by
+one man-of-war, while their Minister, M. Roches, tried to emulate our
+Minister by a guard of marines at Osaka.
+
+The Tycoon was at Miako endeavouring to carry on the government,
+opposed by Prince Satsumali Li Tosa and other powerful Daimios who had
+collected a sufficient number of retainers to threaten the power of the
+Tycoon. What their object is has not been ascertained. Most parties
+appear to agree as to the necessity of doing away with one of the two
+heads. The Tycoon invites a council of Daimios and expresses himself
+willing to be guided by their decision. The majority of Daimios decline
+attending this council and shut themselves up in their castles. The
+1st of January arrives, and the ports of Osaka and Hiogo are open to
+foreign trade. Salutes are fired from the ships-of-war off both ports,
+and no demonstration or disturbance takes place.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]
+
+On the 6th _Basilisk_ sails with mails for Hong Kong; _Salamis_ for
+Chusan, to wait me there.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]
+
+On 7th I go over in _Sylvia_ to visit and consult with Minister at
+Osaka. Land at foreign settlement, where we find horses to ride (4
+miles) to the Legation. On coming on to the open space that surrounds
+the castle, met a number of troops arriving in various and curious
+costumes. These proved to be the Tycoon’s guard and retainers, he
+having retreated from his castle at Miako; the subsequent explanation
+of which was that Satsuma had surrounded the Mikado’s Palace with
+his troops, and thereby was in possession of the Mikado’s person:
+representing the seat of government. The Tycoon stated he had removed
+his troops at the order of the Mikado. Mikado is a child, but Satsuma
+had placed his own people as the advisers of the crown, and the Tycoon,
+too patriotic to shed blood and plunge his country into civil war,
+retired to his castle at Osaka.
+
+I expect that the Tycoon is not deficient in courage; among the
+Japanese I have not seen a man more princely and determined, a
+good-looking man, apparently about thirty years of age. He, I think,
+is aware of much discontent among Prince Satsuma’s followers; their
+swaggering and overbearing manner causes them to be hated by the
+inhabitants; they are some 300 miles from home, and when food gets
+scarce will have to disperse. The Tycoon will “bide his time,” and
+eventually be recalled when they cannot do without him. The foreign
+ministers waited on the Tycoon, and received in reply an explanation
+worthy of a more civilised nation!
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 9.]
+
+On Thursday 9th we were to return to Hiogo by the _Sylvia_, having
+had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch sent to the settlement to take us
+over the bar. Owing to a continued fall of rain and difficulty in
+getting coolies, it was late in the afternoon before we got away from
+the Legation. We, a large party, consisting of Captains Stanhope and
+Brooker, Mitford, Attaché, Captain Gibbs, Harry Stephenson, Adolphus
+Crosbie, Bradshaw of 9th Regiment, my servant Fuller and others,
+descended the river in native boats from a creek at the back of the
+Legation.
+
+On arriving at the settlement we found a fresh breeze from southward
+and a ripple on the water, although 2 miles from the mouth, sufficient
+to show that the bar would not be quite smooth. In addition to
+_Rodney’s_ launch we had the steam cutter of the _Sylvia_, which we
+took in tow. By the time we reached the mouth of the river it was too
+dark to judge of the state of the bar, although we could plainly see
+the white tops of the waves against the darkness beyond. We could also
+discern the ships-of-war at anchor outside.
+
+[Sidenote: Corvé Bay.]
+
+Having a strong ebb tide, stronger perhaps from the late heavy rains,
+we pushed on, and in a few minutes found ourselves plunging into a head
+sea, the rollers breaking heavily. We saw at once that retreat was too
+late, our only chance being to have steerage way enough to keep the
+boat’s head to the sea, which at every plunge broke angrily into her,
+threatening to extinguish the fires. Our only propelling power lay in
+steam, as, with the engine in the boat, no room is left for the oars to
+work, only a portion of the crew being sent on such occasions.
+
+Besides, we all knew that in case of the boat filling, the weight of
+the engine was sufficient to take her down like a stone. We were not
+long in casting off the _Sylvia’s_ cutter to take care of herself.
+We hoped to find less sea when once across the bar. In that we were
+mistaken. In spite of pumps and baling the water was gaining on us,
+and as the boat got heavier it appeared as if each plunge must be
+the last. We had, too, the mortification to see that the current had
+carried us past the _Sylvia_, and we dared not turn the boat’s head
+in that direction without certain destruction from the seas that would
+inevitably have broken over her broadside.
+
+The next few were anxious minutes, until we came under the lee of _La
+Place_, French frigate, which providentially lay just on our line
+ahead. We were drenched, bitter cold, and those who were not sea-sick
+very hungry. Nothing could equal the kindness and attentions of Captain
+Emot and the officers of _La Place_. To get on board the frigate was
+out of the question, although she rigged out her spanker-boom with a
+Jacob’s ladder suspended from the end.
+
+[Sidenote: Hiogo.]
+
+However, by means of waterproof cases they supplied us with all we
+required, even a tin of sardines, which the natives helped to get rid
+of, and mulled wine. Between 10 and 11 P.M. a lull took place, and we
+succeeded in getting to the _Sylvia_, and in the morning weighed for
+Hiogo, having first ascertained that the cutter was safe inside the
+river.
+
+We afterwards heard that within a minute of being cast off she filled
+with a second sea, but being fitted with air-tight compartments as
+a life-boat, she was sufficiently buoyant to bear the weight of the
+engine. By holding up the portion of an awning in the fore part of the
+boat they succeeded in getting her head round, and drifted in again
+before the wind.
+
+The following morning Admiral Bell, the American Commander-in-Chief,
+attempted to cross the bar in his twelve-oared barge, which capsized,
+when himself, Flag-Lieutenant Read, and ten seamen were drowned. We
+sailed in _Rodney_ on the 11th; arrived at Yokohama on 13th.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama, Jan. 19.]
+
+On 19th went in _Firm_ to visit the Naval Yard establishment for
+instruction of Japanese under the able management of Commander Tracey,
+assisted by Lieutenant A. K. Wilson and a competent staff, of an
+engineer, warrant-officer, and seamen gunners. The pupils consisted
+of between seventy and eighty Japanese lads, all the sons of officers
+and respectable people, each lad wearing that distinguishing mark of
+rank, two swords. The College was a long, well-arranged building,
+with cabin, and bunks like those on board passenger ships: each
+cabin containing two students. Baths, cook-houses, etc., arranged
+after their own fashion, but the indoor instruction was carried on
+at tables with seats. They had their rigging and engineer lofts, a
+section of a frigate’s maindeck with portholes and guns. This was
+rendered necessary, as, although the establishment bordered on the sea,
+the water was too shoal to admit of any man-of-war approaching near
+enough to be available for such purposes. They had, however, a small
+brigantine moored close by, and boats to teach them the practical part
+of a seaman’s work.
+
+No nation ever went through such changes, and so great a revolution,
+although still incomplete, in so short a time and with so little
+bloodshed. But internal dissensions must ensue, and the Saturday
+night of our arrival and the greater part of Sunday fires were
+blazing in five or six different parts of the city. This proved to
+be all property belonging to Prince Satsuma, who was domineering it
+with so high a hand over the Tycoon at Miako. A steamer of his that
+attempted to go to sea was chased and attacked by three of the Tycoon’s
+vessels-of-war. Although there did not appear to be much damage done,
+it is the beginning of a Civil War which must decide which is to be the
+strongest and ruling power. Much has to be done, and that strongest of
+all earthly powers, the majority of the people, has not as yet been
+thought of as having anything to do with their differences. It will be
+curious to watch the progress of events.
+
+The most influential and dangerous party now are the ignorant, idle,
+lazy, two-sworded followers and retainers of the Daimios and Feudal
+chiefs--scoundrels who are alike a curse to their masters as well
+as the people. The fires at Yedo were extensive, and so near to the
+British Legation that two young students, a Mr. Easlim, and their
+guests, two American gentlemen by name of Hunt, thought it advisable to
+clear out. Having deposited their goods on board the _Firm_, they came
+to the Naval Yard establishment for board and lodging.
+
+We were disturbed just as we were preparing for dinner by the body of
+one of the American gentlemen being borne in on the shoulders of five
+men, and badly wounded. He was laid on the floor and search made, but
+no wound being discovered, he was given some hot brandy and water, when
+it transpired that his revolver had accidentally gone off in the pocket
+of his _pants_. He sat up and ate a very good dinner, but blood having
+been discovered under his chair, it was thought advisable to make a
+further examination on our arrival next day in the _Firm_ at Yokohama.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]
+
+The English mail having arrived at Yokohama on 20th, we sailed the
+following day, and arrived off Osaka on the 24th, in time to cross the
+bar before dusk, when I proceeded to the Legation, _Rodney_ going on to
+Corvé Bay. News had already reached Osaka of the burnings and doings at
+Yedo.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]
+
+On 26th took leave of Sir Harry Parkes for a while; my intention to
+leave Captain Stanhope of _Ocean_ in charge. The Tycoon’s troops, some
+2000 strong, marched this morning for Miako. Reports of disaffection
+on part of Satsuma’s followers; most likely provisions failing.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]
+
+Shifted flag to _Adventure_, and took leave of Japan for a while.
+_Rodney_ to follow.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]
+
+Arrived at Shanghai. Made arrangements with regard to the new Naval
+Yard to be established on the right bank of Woosung River.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
+
+Shifted flag to _Salamis_.
+
+[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Feb. 10.]
+
+Arrived at Hong Kong, 10.40 A.M. _Rodney_ arrived 2.30 P.M. Shifted
+flag to her. Each successive mail from northward brought accounts of
+the movements of the Civil War. The troops whom the Tycoon had sent
+against the disaffected princes had been met by Satsuma’s followers and
+dispersed. The Tycoon, taking fright, had departed for city of Yedo,
+leaving his magnificent castle to be burnt. The Foreign Legations had
+quitted Osaka the best way they could, and retired upon Hiogo under
+the protection of the ships-of-war. The Tycoon’s want of courage and
+retreat greatly disgusted Monsieur Roches, the French Minister. The
+French having embarked large sums in the construction of docks and
+other works, were pecuniarily interested in the stability of the
+Tycoon’s Government. M. Roches retired to Yokohama, and would likely
+have continued his retreat to Paris, had he not been stopped by the
+newly-arrived French Admiral, Monsieur Ohier.
+
+[Sidenote: Japan. Flag in _Rodney_.]
+
+Other wavering Princes declared for the Mikado, in whose name Satsuma,
+Tosa, Chion, and other Daimios carried on the war against the Tycoon.
+Among them the Prince of Bozin came up from the westward; his line
+of march lay through Hiogo, and skirted the territory which had been
+allotted and already taken possession of by the foreigners. Prince
+Bozin’s advanced guard had gone on, and when his main body came up and
+were abreast of the Foreign Settlement, the not uncommon order for
+all to prostrate themselves was given. Two French seamen who were on
+the road attempted to cross the line of troops and were charged with
+spears. In the confusion the officer in command of Bozin’s troops
+gave the order to fire, an order which was immediately obeyed; but,
+as in all probability it was the first time the Japs had ever to fire
+in earnest, no great damage was done, but the alarm was sounded: the
+Minister’s guard of fifty men belonging to the 9th Regiment turned out,
+marines and seamen from our man-of-war (_Ocean_) hurried on shore.
+
+Just as the disturbance commenced, Sir Harry Parkes, with Captain
+Stanhope, was returning from a walk, attended by two dismounted men
+of the Body Guard. They made for the Consulate across the open space
+which had been cleared for the Foreign Settlement, and afforded capital
+pot-shots for the excited Japs, who for a few minutes had it all their
+own way; but by the end of that time the 9th were advancing, and in a
+few minutes afterwards Parkes was out at the head of his troopers, and
+the Japs, in full retreat, throwing away all extra weight, dispersed
+towards the hills with the agility of monkeys. Parkes came up with,
+and captured, three brass guns. Two French and one American had been
+wounded.
+
+Nothing could have happened worse or more inopportunely for the
+disaffected chiefs, whose last wish it was to offend the foreigners,
+while we (the foreigners) made a very grave affair of the whole
+business, demanding ample apologies from the Mikado himself, and
+nothing short of the execution of the officer who had given the order.
+All this was conceded, and eventually carried out.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Mr. Mitford of the Legation, whose duty it was to attend the ceremony
+of Hara-Kari, sent me a description of it, which is inserted later.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]
+
+Complimented Americans by firing Royal Salute, anniversary of General
+Washington’s birth. Flag in _Rodney_.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
+
+_Tamar_ arrived with 10th Regiment for Yokohama.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
+
+French frigate _La Place_ arrived with Admiral Ohier.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]
+
+United States S.S. _Hartford_, Commodore Gouldisborough, sailed;
+cheered him on quitting the station.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
+
+Weighed under plain sail and ran through the Lyemoon Pass.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCI
+
+HARI-KARI
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1868. March.]
+
+My fair readers, if I have any, are advised to skip the next twenty
+pages, which deal with tragedies upon which I reported officially at
+the time.
+
+Mr. Mitford, who was present at the ceremony of Hari-Kari, sent me
+the following account. The officer’s name was Taki Zingaburo. The
+ceremony took place on March 2, at 10.30 P.M., in the Temple of
+Siefukigi, the headquarters of Satsuma’s troops. The courtyard was
+filled with soldiers, and lighted by fires and lanterns. The witnesses
+were conducted into a room in the temple, where Ito Shunski (formerly
+interpreter on board the _Rodney_), the provisional Governor of
+Hiogo, came soon after, and, having taken down their names, told them
+that himself and another officer, on the part of the Mikado, two of
+Satsuma’s officers, two of Choshin’s, and a representative of the
+Prince of Bizen, would act as Renshi--sheriffs or witnesses. Seven were
+appointed, probably that their numbers might agree with those of the
+foreigners.
+
+After a short delay, they were invited to follow the Japanese witnesses
+into the principal hall of the temple. On the raised platform,
+immediately in front of the high altar, was placed a rug of red felt.
+The temple was dimly lighted with tall candles. The Japanese witnesses
+took their places on the left, and the foreigners on the right, of the
+raised floor. No other persons were present in the hall.
+
+[Sidenote: April.]
+
+After an interval of a few minutes, Taki Zingaburo, a stalwart,
+noble-looking fellow, walked into the hall, attired in his dress of
+ceremony, accompanied by his Kaishaku and three officers in their
+jimbasri, or war surcoat. (Kaishaku is one to whom our word executioner
+is no equivalent: the office is that of a gentleman, usually filled by
+a friend or kinsman or the condemned. In this instance the Kaishaku was
+a pupil of Taki Zingaburo, chosen for his skill in swordsmanship.) He
+advanced slowly, with the Kaishaku on his left, towards the Japanese
+witnesses and bowed before them; then, drawing near to the foreigners,
+he saluted, with perhaps rather more show of respect. In each case the
+salutation was ceremoniously returned.
+
+Slowly, and with great dignity, he mounted on the raised floor,
+prostrated himself before the high altar, and then seated himself on
+the felt carpet with his back to the altar, the Kaishaku crouching on
+his left.
+
+One of the three attendant officers then came forward, bearing a
+tray, on which, wrapped in paper, lay the dirk. This he handed with a
+bow to the condemned man, who received it, reverently raising it to
+his head, and placed it in front of himself. After another profound
+obeisance, the condemned man, in a voice of some emotion, and with
+just so much hesitation as would be natural to a man about to make a
+disagreeable confession, but with no sign of fear, said, “I, and I
+alone, unwarrantably gave the order to fire on the foreigners at Corvé
+as they tried to escape. For this crime I disembowel myself. And I
+beg you who are here present to do me the honour of witnessing the
+act.” After delivering this speech, he allowed his upper garments to
+slip down to his girdle--carefully, according to custom, tucking his
+sleeves under his knees, that he might die as a Samarai should, falling
+forward. Deliberately, with a steady hand, he took the dirk that lay
+before him. For a few seconds he seemed to collect his thoughts, and
+then stabbing himself deeply below the waist on the left side, he drew
+the dirk slowly to the right. As the dirk reached the right side, he
+gave a slight cut upwards, and then lent forwards, stretching out his
+head.
+
+An expression of pain for the first time crossed his face, and the
+Kaishaku, who had been keenly watching every motion, sprang to his
+legs, and poising his sword in the air for a second, with one stroke
+severed the head from the body, during a dead silence. The Kaishaku
+having wiped his sword, bowed solemnly to the witnesses and removed the
+dirk as a proof of the death of Taki Zingaburo, aged thirty-two. Ito
+Shumski and the other representatives of the Mikado left their places,
+and advancing to where the foreigners sat, called on them to witness
+that the execution had been faithfully performed.
+
+The ceremony, to which the place and the hour gave a most solemn
+effect, was characterised by that extreme dignity and punctiliousness
+which are the distinctive marks of a Japanese gentleman of rank, and it
+is not unimportant to note this fact, because it carries with it the
+conviction that the dead man was the officer who committed the crime
+and not a substitute. I am happy to think that Captain Stanhope did
+what he could to save this man’s life, but he was in a minority.
+
+This execution was soon followed by a frightful tragedy. At Hong Kong,
+on March 23, I received a letter from Captain Stanhope of the _Ocean_
+off Osaka, informing me that on the 8th the French corvette _Dupleix_
+had sent her steam launch, accompanied by her whale-boat, to Sakai, a
+small town about six miles on the Hiogo side of Osaka, to wait there
+for Captain Roy of the _Venus_, and the French Consul. The steam launch
+had been lying some time alongside the wharf, and the townspeople had
+come down and been very civil to the crew. After a while, at about 5
+P.M., the engineer and coxswain of the launch asked the midshipman’s
+permission to go up for a stroll.
+
+The lieutenant, who was in the whale-boat, had been up for a walk an
+hour or two previous without so much as having seen a two-sworded man.
+The mid granted permission, but the engineer and gunner had not gone
+far before some two-sworded men seized and tried to secure them; from
+these they broke away and made for their boat; as they did so they were
+fired on by a number of armed men. The coxswain was shot and fell into
+the boat; the engineer jumped overboard and got to the off side; two
+more cut the bow and stern fasts; the stoker tried to turn the engines
+ahead and was immediately pierced by three bullets; the steam-pipe
+was likewise shot through; the mid in charge, with six men, jumped
+overboard.
+
+The First Lieutenant in the whale-boat, who was just outside taking
+soundings, pulled in and was fired on by some seventy or eighty men.
+He had one man shot down, and having no arms, he did not advance
+farther; in meantime the steam launch drifted out and was taken hold
+of by the whale-boat and towed out of range. Having made sail on the
+launch, and leaving the engineer, who was the only person on board
+not wounded, to steer, the Lieutenant proceeded to report matters on
+board his ship, the _Dupleix_. Out of sixteen men in the launch and
+five in the whaleboat only five with them were not hurt. The captain
+of the _Dupleix_ sent a petty officer to report matters to Captain
+Stanhope; while he proceeded with his remaining boats armed to Sakai to
+try if he could find the mid and six men who had jumped overboard, not
+being aware of the force the Japanese might have, and not wishing to
+compromise the Foreign Ministers residing at Osaka.
+
+It was not the intention of Captain Du Petit Thours to attack the
+place, but he requested Captain Stanhope to acquaint the ministers with
+the state of affairs. Captain Stanhope immediately sent Lieutenant
+Rougemont in his steam launch with a letter to Sir Harry Parkes,
+offering to send boats for their embarkation, and the _Cockchafer_
+gunboat to cover them. The _Rinaldo_ he sent to Hiogo to protect
+foreign subjects in case of an outbreak there.
+
+The Captain of the _Dupleix_ returned from Sakai at about 11 P.M.
+without having learnt anything of the missing men, not having been able
+to land. He saw many Japanese in the fort, while others were running
+down to field-pieces at the landing-stage.
+
+_Ocean’s_ steam launch returned from Osaka at 6 the following morning,
+bringing off Captain Roy of the _Venus_ and Captain Creighton of the
+U.S. _Oneida_, also a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, declining, with
+his usual coolness, to embark immediately, saying that the Japanese
+Minister had been to him to express their deep regret at the outrage,
+and declared that the Mikado’s Government would give full satisfaction.
+
+On the 9th March the French and American Ministers embarked. The French
+Minister having demanded that the officer and missing men should be
+given up, whether dead or alive, in twenty-four hours, their bodies
+were taken alongside the _Adventure_ in a Japanese boat, which was at
+once towed to the _Dupleix_.
+
+On the 10th Sir Harry Parkes embarked on board the _Ocean_, all the
+Foreign Ministers being then afloat.
+
+The funeral of the French midshipman and the ten seamen who were killed
+by the Japanese took place at the cemetery at Hiogo: all the usual
+honours being paid by the officers and ships-of-war present.
+
+A newspaper report goes on to state that the French Minister, Captain,
+and officers grasped each other’s hands over the graves, and called on
+the Almighty to witness the vows they then made not to rest satisfied
+until they had avenged the blood of their murdered countrymen.
+
+The French Minister then took into consideration the ultimate demands
+he intended to make, which he would submit to the other Foreign
+Ministers before presenting them to the Mikado’s Government. These
+demands are not likely to be either mild or pleasant to the young
+Mikado’s newly formed Government, and, considering Monsieur Roches’
+interest in the Tycoon, and proportionate aversion to his opponents,
+unless mitigated and smoothed down by Sir Harry Parkes, the ultimatum
+will, I think, be very embarrassing, and who can see the end of it or
+the Civil War either. A raw is established, and will be worked.
+
+[Sidenote: _Written on board_ Rodney, _March 29, off Breaker Point_, en
+route _to Yokohama_.]
+
+In the meantime, preparations on the part of the Mikado’s Government
+still continue for an advance on Yedo, and likewise on the part of
+the Tycoon to resist. Then, again, neither Chiefs appear to have much
+control over the two-sworded ruffians, their followers. An attack by
+both sets united on the foreign settlements at Yokohama would show
+little less judgment or recklessness of consequences than the insane
+attack on the foreigners at Corvé, or the French boat’s crew at Sakai.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCII
+
+THE CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Yokohama, Apr. 6.]
+
+_Rattler_, Commander John Swan, arrived, a good fellow, but subject to
+fits. Obliged to send him to hospital. Prussian frigate, saluted under
+her new flag.
+
+[Sidenote: Apr. 25.]
+
+Poor Swan departed this life.
+
+[Sidenote: Apr. 26.]
+
+Appointed Harry Stephenson to command _Rattler_ and Keppel Garnier to
+be Flag-Lieutenant.
+
+[Sidenote: May 9.]
+
+Proceeded down the bay, _Rattler_ in company.
+
+[Sidenote: May 17.]
+
+Came to in Corvé Bay.
+
+[Sidenote: May 18.]
+
+Weighed; stood over in company. Japan flag in _Rodney_. With _Ocean_
+to Osaka. Flag saluted by the French frigate _Dupleix_. Came to off
+the bar. Self and Captains were presented to the Mikado by Sir Harry
+Parkes. With Minister, accompanied by staff, we were carried up
+through the streets, crowded with Japanese. Sir Harry Parkes presented
+credentials, and we were introduced severally to the Mikado. All the
+chief nobles were prostrate in his presence, their heads touching the
+ground. The Mikado appeared to be a lad of sixteen. The streets were
+lined with kneeling Japanese.
+
+[Sidenote: Osaka, May 23.]
+
+Japanese princes and great officers visited Rodney and _Ocean_.
+
+[Sidenote: May 25.]
+
+Weighed under steam. Came to off Nagasaki. Japan may well be called
+the “Gem of the Sea” from her geographical position, her magnificent
+harbours and inland sea, the approaches to which might be rendered
+impregnable. It is a rich country, with mines of coal and iron,
+fisheries, and a vast maritime population. Japan is coveted alike by
+Russia, America, and France; and its possession would enable the power
+holding to monopolise the whole trade in China.
+
+The Japanese naturally fear the steady march of Russia towards Japan.
+They see that in ten years China has yielded to that country 900 miles
+of coast, all tending towards the possession of Japan, which has
+harbours open at all seasons of the year, while Russia’s boundary line
+on the islands off the coast has brought her to the door of Japan.
+
+It is apparent that if we maintain a proper position in Japan, in
+consideration of our vast Eastern trade, England and other nations, not
+wishing to acquire territory, will always be in a position to preserve
+the integrity of Japan.
+
+America has discovered that Yokohama is the most convenient place for
+a depot of coal for her 4000-ton Pacific steamers, and the United
+States Senior Naval Officer informed me that they intended to establish
+store-houses at Nagasaki for their men-of-war. Russia has already a
+small dockyard at Nagasaki.
+
+The French have been, and are still, constructing docks, and have
+established, at the Japanese Government’s expense, a small colony at
+Yokosha, near Yokohama.
+
+At present we have as good a footing in Japan as any other nation; our
+trade exceeds that of all others, and more British capital has been
+invested. I am urging upon the Admiralty the necessity for building a
+naval hospital at Yokohama, owing to its salubrious climate, and also
+a bungalow for the use of the Naval Commander-in-Chief, as there is
+nothing of the kind on the station.
+
+It was proposed last year that I should visit the Gulf of Tartary
+and the Amoor River this summer. While at Peking in September, got
+Sir Rutherford Alcock to speak to the Russian Minister, Monsieur A.
+Vlangali, as I did myself afterwards, requesting him to mention my
+intention to the Governor at Nicolai.
+
+Our party was to have consisted of George Fitzroy, with his wife
+and children, Conolly, from the Peking Legation, and the Commodore.
+Fitzroy had remained too long in Shanghai, and was obliged to start
+earlier than he intended for a cruise in the P. and O. _Benares_.
+They had reached Yokohama the day before I arrived from Hong Kong in
+the _Rodney_ (Mrs. Fitzroy was with him, the children remaining at
+Shanghai). I persuaded him to embark immediately on board _Rodney_,
+where he could have the advantage of the best medical advice. Doctor
+Hill took charge of him. We sailed from Yokohama on May 19, and arrived
+at Nagasaki, May 28, passing through the inland sea, and unfortunately
+landed Fitzroy apparently no better than when he embarked.
+
+The _Salamis_ arrived on 11th from Cheefoo, bringing Conolly, who had
+found his way from Peking. _Basilisk_ (6), Captain Hewitt, arrived on
+14th, bringing our mail and the Commodore. Dr. Hill pronounced Fitzroy
+in too precarious a state to embark, and kindly volunteered to remain
+behind.
+
+[Illustration: _Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia._]
+
+We had two other passengers, who promised to be of much use to us in
+Russian waters. One was a Mr. Esche, the tenant of a large extent
+of the coal district in the Island of Saghalien, himself a German,
+but speaking the Russian language fluently; the other, Mr. Adams, the
+contractor, who had before been attending a Russian squadron in these
+seas in that capacity, a kind-hearted jolly personage, known in the
+gunroom by the name of “Beef and Vegetables.”
+
+From Sir Rutherford Alcock I received a letter addressed to himself
+from the Russian Minister, Mr. Vlangali, stating that he had written
+to Admiral Jean Furnhjelm, Governor of the Province and Coast, on the
+subject of my intended visit, that although he had not yet received an
+answer, he was sure that orders would everywhere be given, “pour faire
+à votre Amiral tous les soins qui lui sont dûs.”
+
+[Sidenote: June 3.]
+
+Leaving the _Rodney_ at Nagasaki, I took a week’s cruise in the
+_Sylvia_, surveying vessel, Commander Brooker, during which we passed
+through Hirado or Spex Strait, Commander Brooker having just completed
+a survey of it.
+
+[Sidenote: June 17.]
+
+Soon after daylight we weighed in _Rodney_ and steamed out of Nagasaki
+Harbour, steering for the beautiful passage through Hirado Strait,
+which, since Brooker’s excellent survey, I considered perfectly safe
+with so good a Staff-Commander as we had in Harris. Successfully
+performed this feat. _Rodney_ must have been by far the largest ship
+that ever went through. We then shaped a course to the westward of Iki,
+through the East Korea Strait, and to the northward along the Korean
+coast.
+
+[Sidenote: Novogorod Harbour, June 20.]
+
+Came to in Novogorod Harbour. In spite of the survey of Posietta Bay,
+the entrance to the harbour is difficult to find on a first visit; it
+is narrow, but safe. The settlement, consisting of half-a-dozen huts,
+did not look inviting, but the scenery round was fine: hills covered
+with fresh green pasturage and brushwood, while well-sheltered harbours
+within extensive bays were seen in every direction. I was waited on by
+Major Pfingsten, the officer in temporary charge. He had with him a
+garrison of fifty men, while about nine miles inland they had a large
+encampment. The Governor of Eastern Siberia, General Korsakof, and the
+Lieutenant-Governor, Rear-Admiral Furnhjelm, were at a place some miles
+distant, to whom Major Pfingsten telegraphed our arrival.
+
+Close to the settlement was a coal mine, which they were slowly working
+with soldiers and such tools as they had, assisted just at this time
+by a dozen Manchurian Chinese prisoners, taken in a border warfare, in
+which the Governor, with his Lieutenant and a thousand men, was then
+engaged.
+
+When at Cheefoo in October I heard of an island in about latitude 42°
+40´ off the coast and claimed by the Russians, on which a party of
+about three hundred Chinese were working for gold, which was reported
+to be plentiful; and that the Russians had sent a gunboat to drive the
+Chinese away, who, being well armed, had beaten the Russians off: all
+this, we heard from Major Pfingsten, it proved to be true, he had only
+lately returned from an expedition to the island of Mayatchni (called
+in our charts “Termination”).
+
+Having no steamer available, he had started in a sailing vessel with
+600 soldiers, including artillery, but as he was six days going the
+ninety miles, the Chinese received timely notice and had wisely
+decamped. When the major arrived he found three men only on the island:
+these he shot to prove who were the rightful owners of the soil, and
+then returned. The Chinamen, who appear to have come from Manchuria,
+succeeded in stirring up their countrymen and brought on this petty
+border warfare on which the Governor and his lieutenant were engaged,
+and which will, in all probability, end in further aggression and
+annexation on the part of the Russians.
+
+Whether His Excellency did not approve of our visiting his territory
+when he was engaged in so inglorious a warfare, I cannot tell, but the
+return telegraph arrived without a civil word of welcome, and with
+directions to the Major not to supply us with coal. The Major rather
+softened this by stating that they expected the Governors in their
+respective vessels, both of which would require coal; and certainly the
+small supply of about twenty tons we saw ready on the beach would not
+have helped us much.
+
+During our stay fishing and shooting parties went away, but we were
+too early in the season. The ducks were on their eggs, and the salmon,
+so plentiful later, had not arrived. Ducks, geese, curlew, pigeon, and
+widgeon were brought on board in small quantities; two or three shots
+had been fired at deer and the footprints of bear had been seen; in
+fact, a guide who had conducted a party to the ground most frequented
+by wild duck had killed three bears the day before our arrival.
+
+Tigers are numerous, but only visit the coast in the winter, during
+which time their hair is long and their skins handsome. There were in
+the camp bear and otter skins for sale, as well as a few sables, for
+which as much as nine dollars a piece was asked, the market value being
+about a tael or three shillings.
+
+[Sidenote: Novogorod, June.]
+
+One day, mounted by the Major on capital ponies, Conolly, Garnier,
+Risk, and self rode to the camp, about nine miles distant by land,
+although two miles by water. From the _Rodney_ you might land within
+half a mile. The ponies, with plain snaffle bits, had excellent mouths.
+At the camp, which was situated on a healthy-looking elevated plain on
+the bank of a small river, we found the same sombre-looking mechanical
+soldiers that we saw in the Crimea: smoke and drink apparently their
+only object, no games or amusement of any sort going on.
+
+The country appeared to be well supplied with cattle, fat and in good
+condition, but nowhere did we see sheep. During our ride we had to
+cross and re-cross a river by ferry.
+
+The Manchurian prisoners were unhappy-looking fellows. I saw them
+one day after returning from working at the coal-mines locked up in
+a wretched hut. One of the guard threw a few biscuits on the ground,
+which the last two men picked up, probably their only meal. The Major
+told Conolly that he thought his prisoners were belonging to a band of
+rebels that had long infested the north of China. He described the men
+that attacked the Russian gunboat party on the island of Mayatchni as
+being well organized and drilled, and he believed they had Europeans
+amongst them. Two of the prisoners had been liberated to treat for a
+ransom. Major Pfingsten had not made up his mind whether to shoot the
+prisoners; probably when too weak to work any longer at the coal-mine
+he will do so. There were two long sheds full of grain, brought all the
+way from Cronstadt.
+
+The soil appears in every way adapted for either cultivation or
+pasture, but beyond the herds of bullocks no attempt was made to cause
+it to support the human beings located. The few women there were at
+the settlement and in the camp were of a low sort--convicts. Every
+encouragement was given to any soldier who would take one to wife
+and settle in the country, land being given gratis, but no advantage
+appeared to be taken of this. We were recommended not to send our
+clothes on shore to be washed, as they would probably be stolen.
+
+The Major was married, his wife being the only person worthy the
+appellation of lady; an agreeable person, with good eyes and teeth; she
+came on board to breakfast and enjoyed our band.
+
+[Sidenote: June 26.]
+
+At 9.45 P.M. steamer’s lights were observed outside, and shortly
+afterwards our Staff-Commander piloted the _Salamis_ in, bringing our
+mail from Shanghai.
+
+[Sidenote: June 27.]
+
+At half-past ten weighed under steam, in company with _Salamis_. She
+having some defect in her machinery, was directed to Vladivostock,
+which Captain Courtenay in his excellent report describes as somewhat
+more cheery and civilized than Novogorod. Although _Salamis’s_ defects
+were nothing but what she could put to rights with her own engineers,
+she was to rejoin us in Castrie’s Bay. Afternoon, all being well, clear
+of the bay, got screw up, having only just coal enough to keep us in
+distilled water. Stood to the eastward, and when well off shore, shaped
+a course up the Gulf of Tartary.
+
+[Sidenote: Saghalien. Usu Bay. July 4.]
+
+Made Cape Lamanon on the coast of Saghalien. At 7, came to in 7 fathoms
+in Usu Bay. Here we found a straggling village of Ainos, all fishermen.
+A small stream ran into the sea, off the mouth of which their nets were
+arranged, forming three sides of a square, the fourth open on the land
+side. The outside was about a cable’s length from the shore, the two
+sides extending the whole length, close to the outside net. But on the
+inside they had another net which appeared to lie on the bottom; this
+they drew up every now and then, generally bringing up from thirty to
+fifty salmon. A few buttons or a bit of silver would buy as many as we
+liked to take.
+
+We found a Japanese trading junk from Hakodadi, bringing salt and
+rice in exchange for dried fish and seaweed. The Russians appeared to
+assume authority over the more simple Ainos, and I have no doubt drove
+lucrative bargains. The hills and woods, with the green grass, had,
+from the ship, an inviting appearance which was dispelled on attempting
+to walk, owing to the rank vegetation and myriads of mosquitoes. The
+Ainos themselves were as dirty as need be. In a cage was the usual
+bear, petted and fattened to be killed and eaten at the annual festival
+amidst lamentations and rejoicings, when all get drunk who can. They
+had a few skins for sale, and among them Dr. Fegan, with the assistance
+of Adams, succeeded in getting me three tolerably good sables.
+
+A little to the northward of where we anchored there was a larger
+river, apparently full of salmon; although they would not take the
+flies offered them, no end of smaller salmon and trout of about a
+quarter of a pound were landed as fast as the lines could be applied.
+After I had returned on board in the afternoon, I observed from the
+stern walk an unusual commotion among the native fishing-boats that had
+spread their nets off the mouth of the stream; one of our boats on its
+way to the ship with the wardroom officers, coming off to dinner, had
+been attracted to the spot. There was cheering and shots were fired.
+One of the cutters was ready manned, alongside. Calling the Commodore,
+we jumped into her, followed by Garnier, who took the precaution to
+bring a couple of rifle carbines--always ready with ammunition in
+the fore cabin. It was a curious and exciting scene. A whale had got
+entangled in the fishermen’s net and was floundering about in its
+endeavours to escape. Our boats with those of the natives formed three
+sides of a square just outside the edge of the net, that side next the
+shore it being unnecessary to guard. Every minute or so the monster
+raised his huge head to blow--I expect as much to look about him--and
+then exposed his body as he dived. On each occasion he was assailed by
+shots, spears, and lances. Although I had seen thousands of whales, I
+never before had been within boat-hook’s length of a live one. Each
+time his head appeared the Commodore and I sent a rifle bullet into it.
+
+While the natives plunged lances, the beast spouted blood and water;
+twice he tried to hoist the cutter, but with the crew we were too
+heavy for him, as he only tilted us on one side; this work had lasted
+nearly half an hour, and we thought his strength exhausted, when the
+infuriated animal, probably pierced deeper by one of the lances, made
+a final effort. Lashing his tail, he dashed through the net, lifted
+one of the lighter native boats, out of which the crew had previously
+escaped, into the air, and made for the deep, leaving a wake of blood.
+
+It is to be hoped that the poor natives whose net he destroyed will
+be rewarded in a day or two by finding his body. I was struck by the
+number of dogs there were on shore, all apparently in good condition.
+They were sledge dogs, and in the morning two teams of them were
+scampering along the beach towing boats; there was no one on shore to
+guide them, and they appeared to enjoy the fun.
+
+[Sidenote: July 6.]
+
+Weighed at 10.30 A.M. under plain sail. Observing on the chart there
+were two lagoons near the coast, likely for wild fowl, visited them. On
+standing in shore, we suddenly took the bottom; last cast in the chains
+was 12 fathoms. Had to lay out stream and heave off; water smooth,
+weather fine, but bottom foul. It was 8 P.M. before we took up our
+berth in 7 fathoms, about two miles from the shore.
+
+[Sidenote: July 7.]
+
+The spot we selected for our picnic was on a bank about half cable
+wide that separated the northern lagoon from the sea. There was the
+usual bar; the sea being smooth, one of our boats passed up. We saw
+no natives, but near where we landed was a hut, the residence of
+fishermen during the last season. By the number of heads hung up to
+dry (as winter food for the sleigh dogs), salmon must have been large
+and plentiful. Eight and a half couple of wild ducks were bagged by
+the parties “gunning.” The lagoons appeared to be bordered by long
+grass and sedges and surrounded by hills covered with firs; these woods
+were difficult to get through, not so much from underwood as from the
+enormous quantity of decayed and fallen timber, which was covered with
+moss or hid by ferns, and treacherous to tread on. Beyond the hut
+mentioned, I can imagine no ground better adapted for the breeding of
+wild-fowl. None of the pine trees appeared to grow to any size. In
+working his way through the wood Heneage disturbed a covey of birds,
+quite young, about a dozen of them; we shot one, a pheasant.
+
+[Sidenote: Najassi, July 8.]
+
+9.15 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Our next place was to be Najassi,
+some fourteen miles farther to the northward, where Mr. Esche had a
+small settlement and a grant of an extensive coal district; We came to
+in the afternoon off his house, determined to coal during continuance
+of fine weather. We found Mr. Esche’s hut on the right bank of a small
+stream, the inhabitants of the settlement consisting of one Russian
+and a boy; they appeared happy and contented, netting as much salmon
+as they required for use, drying and salting others for winter food.
+They were occasionally visited by bears. Although provided with a
+double-barrelled rifle, Esche never liked to fire for fear of provoking
+an attack.
+
+[Sidenote: Najassi.]
+
+However, he showed me, in case of Bruin’s coming to close quarters, a
+formidable-looking spear, which was kept inside the house. There had
+been some Chinese coolies and boat-builders, but they preferred the
+society of Nicholai.
+
+Green hills rose everywhere from the beach, intersected at two or three
+hundred yards by ravines and rivulets, while patches of coal were
+seen cropping out in all directions, at the foot, at the sides and
+tops, every convenient height for mining. The great and only drawback
+to this valuable property was the want of a harbour or shelter for
+coal-lighters. About four miles to the southward of where Mr. Esche
+had built his hut is a small river, inside which there is a good boat
+harbour; but, like all the other streams, there is a bar on which the
+surf must always break, except in the finest weather.
+
+[Sidenote: July 10.]
+
+Coaling was performed by our own people filling bags and then loading
+alternately our pinnace and a boat belonging to the settlement, which
+was towed backwards and forwards by the steam launch; by these means we
+managed to get about forty tons per day. While the coaling was going
+on, our usual sporting parties were formed. There was but little for
+the guns, but the salmon were in and swarming up both the streams and
+river to the southward. Although small salmon and trout of about six
+inches long were caught by hundreds with every sort of bait, no salmon
+of any size would look at a fly, so we were obliged to resort to other
+means. The stream at the settlement was ascended many miles into the
+interior between the mountains, the water tumbling into deep pools at
+ten or twelve feet distances--these were black at the bottom with large
+fish. To get at them a net was placed across the stream below; we, with
+spears and grains, standing on boulders or seated across a fallen tree,
+had great excitement and fun, as the salmon, started from the pool by
+means of long poles, made across the shallows for the nearest hole.
+
+A score of fine fish, from eight to fourteen pounds, were taken this
+way in one day; but none, except those that had been wounded, could be
+driven into the net. Another party remained at a pool, some two miles
+up the stream, all night, and had great sport in spearing salmon by
+torchlight.
+
+[Sidenote: Najassi, July 11.]
+
+The ascent up the stream was difficult and tedious; the banks, from
+wood and vegetation, except for a yard or two here and there, were
+impassable, independently of the most formidable mosquitoes, while the
+stream was rapid and the large water-washed stones smooth and slippery.
+Nevertheless, substantial meals and everything requisite to support
+the inward man were conveyed up. The larger river to the southward was
+where there were most fish: these likewise took no notice of the fly,
+but the roe from the female salmon was immediately taken by a large
+fish, who leapt some feet out of the water on first taste of the hook,
+and then making a bolt down stream, round a boulder, disappeared with
+some fathoms of line.
+
+On a flat piece of ground between the sea and the left bank of the
+river (here deep and some sixty yards wide), there is an Aino village
+of fishermen, the chief more respectable-looking than the generality of
+his countrymen, but with the left side of his face bandaged up, having
+suffered from the claw of a bear. Three or four of them would go in a
+rickety boat, and with a small net draw one of the many pools, bringing
+out at each draught some forty or fifty fine salmon; these fellows were
+at first liberal enough with their fish, allowing you to take what you
+wanted for a small coin, a little cloth or rum, but afterwards, when
+they had got all they wanted, had the impudence to demand a dollar for
+one fish, so that it became high time that we should help ourselves.
+
+The ship’s seine was brought and cast outside the mouth of the river,
+when, in a few hauls, some five hundred salmon were taken--more than
+enough for the ship’s company and some to salt besides.
+
+[Sidenote: July 18.]
+
+We weighed and shifted under sail to a bay called Pilyawo.
+
+[Sidenote: July 19.]
+
+Being the Sabbath we remained quiet, with the exception of sending a
+boat to communicate with a German vessel that took Mr. Esche on to
+Castries Bay.
+
+[Sidenote: July 20.]
+
+Joined by _Rattler_, and the following day we sailed in company.
+
+[Sidenote: July 22.]
+
+Came to in Tonquiera Bay, _Rattler_ going to Duè to fill up coal.
+
+[Sidenote: July 24.]
+
+Weighed at daylight and stood to Castries Bay, where we came to in the
+evening, finding _Salamis_. Heard by her of the sad death at Nagasaki
+of poor George Fitzroy. I cannot say that it was quite unexpected,
+almost every one but his charming wife felt he could not recover. On
+our departure for the Russian coast I had left our clever surgeon Hill
+to look after him. In the Crimea I attended the deathbed of the elder
+brother, Augustus. Just as I arrived at Sierra Leone in February 1861,
+Arthur Fitzroy, in command of the _Falcon_, died of fever. As children
+at the Cape we had all four played together.
+
+_Rattler_ rejoining in the night, shifted flag to _Salamis_. It was
+a gratification to see young Harry Stephenson in all the pride of a
+“first command.” On Sunday I dined on board his ship, and slept on
+board the _Salamis_, preparatory to a start for Nicholai, pilots having
+been most willingly provided by the officials.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 27.]
+
+Little to remark going up. Channel muddy and intricate, with the
+distant shore of Saghalien scarcely visible to the eastward. There were
+buoys at some of the angles, and beacons on the land to the westward,
+to place which the pine-trees had been cleared away. Our leadsmen
+frequently had “1/4 less 2,” but we never stopped.
+
+Snow-white fish, not porpoises--they said, were tumbling about: round
+snouts, blow-hole on back of head, 7 or 8 feet long, not fit for food.
+As we neared the entrance, occasional fishing villages were seen, with
+no end of salmon drying, dogs and dirt to any amount.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCIII
+
+FLAG IN _SALAMIS_
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Salamis_, July 27. Nicholai.]
+
+6 P.M.--Arrived off Nicholai, 120 miles from Castries Bay; current
+strong against us. On anchoring, was waited on by officers from the
+two vessels-of-war, offering services; also an officer, in full dress,
+from the Commandant, wishing to know at what time I should land. Having
+arranged for 11 A.M. on the morrow, was received on landing by the
+Commandant, Captain Fukevitche, of the Navy; numerous decorations. We
+landed, a large party; besides self and staff, Commodore, Conolly and
+Stephenson. Proceeded in the first place to call on Madame Furnhjelm,
+wife of the Governor, who was also an admiral; daily expected from the
+southward. Nothing could be kinder or more cordial than my reception.
+
+[Sidenote: Nicholai, July 28.]
+
+A small detached house, evidently the Governor’s office, was placed
+at my disposal, everything convenient, clean and comfortable for “one
+party”--a guard and orderlies outside, a note from Madame stating that
+I should be daily expected at dinner, breakfast and luncheon being sent
+to my room. The Commandant then showed all the public establishments,
+hospital, dockyards, etc., which were all very well and wonderful for
+so distant a settlement.
+
+But nothing bores me so much as this official sight-seeing, so took
+advantage of the first opportunity to excuse myself, as I had friends
+on board _Salamis_ to luncheon, and then returned to my allotted
+quarters, where my things had been conveyed. While putting on my
+“citizen’s dress,” a luxury in which no Russian officer ever indulges,
+a rather good-looking but powerful Russian girl walked in, and placed a
+salmon, fresh butter, caviare, cheese, sherry and port on the table.
+
+The Commodore, Garnier, and Dob Crosbie rather liking the appearance of
+things, we changed our minds about luncheon on board. Afterwards took a
+stroll with Conolly. Plan of future city well laid out. Streets wide,
+although stumps of forest trees still retain their places. Population
+said to be five thousand, of which three thousand are military. The
+club was kindly placed at the disposal of our officers, but most of the
+Russians being here on punishment, much was not expected of them, and
+collision rather avoided.
+
+The rooms offered were unfurnished, but speedily filled with pillows,
+blankets, saddles, carpet-bags, etc. A little later, party of a dozen
+were mounted on hired ponies galloping into the country, headed by
+good-natured lieutenant Peakroff of the Russian Navy.
+
+There are several stores kept by Germans and Americans, full of
+“notions,” in which furs and skins may be picked up, but no criterion
+of the proper price of things could be formed from what was asked of
+us, supposed, “rich English.” Small parties of unclean natives, with
+hair uncombed, wearing their shirts outside, fastened at the waist,
+and sealskin boots, prowled about the streets jungle fashion. They
+generally have sables concealed on their persons for barter, which
+does not diminish the offensive smell of the uncured skins.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
+
+Their mode of dealing is curious. A party of five or six walk into a
+room without uttering a word or appearing to take notice of anything.
+They squat down in an extended ring according to the size of the room,
+and commence smoking. After a lapse of some minutes one of them draws
+a sable from under his clothes with the fur inside, and chucks it
+into the middle of the circle. The owner of the house, who has been
+attending to other things with a studied indifference has (by accident
+of course!) to pass through the room, takes up the skin, examines the
+fur inside, and makes an offer, generally of cloth or tobacco. If it
+comes up to their idea they take it and walk off. If not the skin is
+returned to its savoury berth. They separate without comment.
+
+When back to my quarters there was another note from Madame Furnhjelm,
+inviting Conolly and Pusey to dine there every evening during our stay.
+
+Conolly went to answer in person, proposing that during the absence
+of the Admiral, her husband, we might be allowed to avail ourselves
+of the use of the club, dine at the _table d’hôte_, and wait on her
+in the evening. Such an arrangement this kind lady would not hear of.
+She is a fine handsome woman, of English parents, full of anecdote and
+information, with a family of three or four: a wonderful performer on
+the piano. Her husband had been Governor of Russian America, since sold
+to the United States. The tea she gave us was excellent, and, as I had
+often heard of Russian tea, superior to anything we got in China.
+
+The Governor of Eastern Siberia is General Korsakof, a young man who
+commanded at Petropauloviski at the time of our absurd expedition in
+1855. He rode night and day to St. Petersburg, which he reached in
+an extraordinary short time, with the account of our defeat. He went
+into the presence of Nicholas I. a captain, and left it a general. I
+regret we are not to see him here, he having returned inland from Port
+Vladivostock.
+
+[Sidenote: July 29.]
+
+While dressing, my servant informed me that a fine ham and two eggs had
+been sent for my breakfast. The ham was of the wild boar, excellent,
+but of immense size.
+
+Pusey had sent the boats of the _Salamis_ about five miles down to the
+mouth of a small river on the north bank with the seines: a good excuse
+for a picnic. The Commodore, Conolly, Crosbie, Garnier, and self, were
+kindly mounted by the Commandant; we went by a tolerably good road.
+They had had two good hauls, taking about three hundred fish before we
+got there; after luncheon the net, a small one with a bag, was laid out
+a few yards higher up the river, and in less than ten minutes upwards
+of a thousand salmon and trout were landed, independently of about
+three hundred returned to the river, said to be spawning. They were
+distinguished by an extraordinary rounding of the back.
+
+Our dinners with Madame Furnhjelm were excellent--some strange Russian
+dishes, intended for our edification, but everything in English style.
+In the evening some ladies dropped in, mostly speaking English, and we
+had singing and music. The days were long, and between dinner and tea
+Madame took me a drive in her carriage, ponies rough, but strong and
+fat.
+
+[Sidenote: The Amoor, July 30.]
+
+A small iron steamer about sixty feet long, and drawing only two
+feet water, was placed at our disposal for a trip up the Amoor.
+Some hopes of wild fowl were held out. We started a large party; two
+Russian officers speaking French accompanied us. The vessel was named
+the Russian for “Courier,” and attached to the telegraph department,
+the line taking the right bank of the river. She was kept with the
+apparatus on board ready for repairing accidents to the wire. She could
+go 1500 miles up the Amoor, which river was of a red muddy colour,
+rendering the contrast great as the white, silvery backs of the fish
+showed above as they tumbled over.
+
+We kept up the right bank, which rose precipitately, except at the
+ravines, which occurred every quarter of a mile, where there was a
+rivulet, a small Russian hut, a settlement, a place for drying fish or
+the cutting up of timber for fire or building purposes. About 12 miles
+up we came to a Russian village; a picnic being the principal object, a
+shady spot was selected, and fire lighted.
+
+After the songs were expended, only three sportsmen could be found to
+proceed up the river in a canoe in search of wild fowl, while none
+could be found to face the wood, so well guarded by mosquitoes. Grouse
+were said to abound, but in all probability looking after their young
+broods. The remainder of us proceeded in the steamer, another mile up,
+to a Gilak village called Kaki. It was the season for drying fish, and
+anything more offensive than the smell could not be.
+
+There were bears in different parts of the village: one, an immensely
+powerful brute, confined in a log-hut, from whom it took three men to
+draw a stick one of them had thrust through the bars, which Bruin had
+seized in his paw. There were two smaller ones in separate cages, and
+in one of the houses we saw two young ones, which had been caught as
+cubs, and with the natives were quite tame, although fully aware of the
+presence of strangers.
+
+Dogs for winter sleighs were innumerable, all apparently in good
+condition, and with few exceptions secured in irons. The inside of
+the houses had fires in the centre for cooking, and a raised platform
+about five feet wide attached to the wall. The interiors were not
+inviting; the drinking and cooking utensils were of the most primitive
+description, made out of the bark of the white beech.
+
+In one hut there was the only pretty native we had seen, a young
+creature with an infant, whom she rocked in the most ingenious of
+cradles. A Russian officer, struck with the young lady’s charms,
+purchased her on the spot, and arranged her transport to his quarters
+with as much _sang-froid_ as if he had been ordering a case of
+champagne to be sent there. Conolly bought a cradle similar to the one
+we had just seen, but not the kid which was lying in it!
+
+Returned to the Russian village to pick up the sportsmen. Return of
+game, nil. It is said this race of Gilaks is fast becoming extinct,
+through the ravages of small-pox.
+
+[Sidenote: July 31.]
+
+According to previous arrangement Madame Furnhjelm came to see the
+ships, bringing with her the wife of Captain Riskoff of the Russian
+Navy, she also speaking English. We steamed up the river; but the
+afternoon setting in rainy, after going some 15 miles with little
+variety of scene, we anchored and had tiffin and then back, having
+recourse to whist, Madame Riskoff playing a remarkably good game.
+
+Conolly and self had made up our minds, if we could get the use of
+a small steamer, to go up the Amoor and Usuri rivers so as to join
+the _Rodney_ at Vladivostock by going about 150 miles overland after
+leaving the Usuri.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
+
+As the time for the departure of the _Salamis_ to save the mail at
+Shanghai was at hand, and the Governor still absent, I wrote a private
+note to the Commandant, asking if he could provide me with a steamer;
+but in Russia a subordinate dare not take the slightest responsibility;
+so the reply, official, and written in the best of English, was vague.
+He could let me have a steamer as far as Hovorafka, the junction of the
+Usuri, but had no power to send her beyond, and that the post horses
+had been removed from Bonsey on account of the border war; this was the
+place we should have landed at, to cross over to Vladivostock. However,
+a telegram announced the arrival of the Admiral in Castries Bay, so I
+deferred the departure of _Salamis_ until noon of the 2nd, while I was
+prepared to depart at that hour by either route.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]
+
+The Commodore, Conolly, Pusey, and self, dined with Madame Furnhjelm.
+Just before the dinner hour the steamer with Governor-Admiral hove in
+sight, but this kind lady declined to excuse us; she said two hours
+must elapse before the steamer could come up against the stream and
+anchor. We, however, withdrew in time not to be present at the first
+meeting after three months’ absence. The Admiral could not have been
+at home five minutes before he came in full costume to call on me, in
+his own house, after which we returned to tea with Madame. Admiral
+Furnhjelm is a hale, handsome man of about fifty, rather bald, gray
+hair, with very black eyebrows, manner most cordial and kind. I did not
+allude to the letter I had written relative to ascending the Usuri,
+but His Excellency remarked that he had heard of my visit, I suppose
+from his wife, and that there were many difficulties, but that he would
+give me an answer before ten o’clock the following morning.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 2.]
+
+We had made our arrangements for either route, but, I must confess,
+with some anxiety as to the result. No more novel or agreeable trip
+could be conceived than that we had proposed by river.
+
+Precisely at the appointed time, the Admiral, with a large map, at
+once laid before us what he conceived to be great difficulties. The
+insurrection and invasion to the southward by these Chinese rebels
+had caused them to withdraw all the horses along the post road for
+the use of the troops; that the rebels, although dispersed, were not
+subdued, and might be marauding the country, and that beyond the point
+called Bonsey, he could not be responsible for our lives. Most of these
+difficulties could, he said, in a couple of weeks, be overcome, and an
+escort got ready.
+
+However, kindly placed before us as it was, it was evident we were not
+wanted, so we put the best face on our disappointment, thanked him all
+the same, but declined attempting the journey.
+
+A parting breakfast was prepared for us, and our party having
+embarked, _Salamis_ weighed, and soon was passing rapidly down the
+river, assisted by the current. The battery saluted with fifteen guns,
+_Rodney_ having fired a similar number on arrival of the Admiral in
+Castries Bay without a return.
+
+Our pilot was an intelligent young officer who had himself planned and
+placed the numerous buoys and landmarks, without which no one, however
+experienced, could guide a vessel clear of the shoals. The landmarks
+are ingeniously arranged, being triangular whitewashed frames, showing
+the rear higher than the other. To place these the dark-looking
+fir-trees had been felled in the line, and the landmarks were seldom
+visible more than one pair at a time.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]
+
+We anchored in Castries Bay a little after 1 A.M., and might have done
+the distance within the twelve hours had it not been for the dense fogs
+so prevalent in these seas, especially on the China side. The pilot,
+who had run for a high bluff, had a curious way of ascertaining its
+vicinity in a fog, or at night, by blowing the steam whistle; if near
+the high land there would be an echo.
+
+With this assurance he suddenly put his helm hard-a-port and stood
+boldly in until within range of the _Rodney’s_ responding guns and the
+curious glare of the blue lights which could scarcely penetrate the fog.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_.]
+
+During the two days here made several attempts to dredge for shells,
+but with trifling success. The steam launch being well adapted,
+fishing parties away catching large quantities of whiting, which were
+excellent. They seized at any bait with which the hook was covered;
+some rock cod were caught in same way--in the seine, off the mouths of
+three rivers, 435 salmon and trout and 1450 flat fish. Several broods
+of young grouse perched in trees were seen by walking parties. During
+our picnics, where our dredging parties landed, I had much difficulty
+in preventing the men from taking the numerous young birds that were
+found in the holes and crevices of rocks, Jack always fancying that
+because the small things opened their mouths he could feed and rear
+them.
+
+The greatest number were a species of diver about the size of a
+widgeon, with the brightest orange-coloured legs and beak, with
+ornamental horns or plumes on each side of the head; the plumage
+black--eye, light green with small black spot in centre; narrow red
+edge to eyelid. The flight was rapid, like others of the species. We
+shot a few as specimens. Among them a bird, with a sharp-pointed bill,
+upper one slightly hooked, as if for extracting fish from shells, with
+still brighter red legs, same colour inside the mouth, plumage black,
+eye black.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
+
+_Rattler_ despatched to coal at Duè and then to stop _Basilisk_ with
+our mail at Possiette Bay.
+
+[Sidenote: Duè, Aug. 5.]
+
+Sailed soon after daylight for Duè, off which we arrived at 3 P.M.
+Observed _Salamis_ steaming to the southward, _Rattler_ at anchor--a
+Russian transport apparently in a hurry coaling, the lighters grounding
+at low water. It being spring tides, therefore dispatched _Rattler_
+with what she had, and proceeded to coal ourselves, with the two
+lighters they had spared the _Rattler_. A convenient wooden pier
+enabled our people, with the use of the Russian carts that ran along a
+tramway, to coal pretty well. The village looked wretched and dirty.
+There were barracks, hospital, and storehouses.
+
+On an eminence to the northward is a tolerable lighthouse--some small
+gardens up the two ravines, down which the village is watered. The
+population consisted chiefly of convicts. Coal appeared to crop out in
+all directions.
+
+The Commandant was a sort of Cossack savage of low rank, but, although
+generally under the influence of drink, always treated me with military
+respect. His garrison consisted of about fifteen persons, distinguished
+from the villagers by being allowed, occasionally, to shave. The women
+were repulsive-looking, and all wore great boots. The Commandant always
+presented me with an official return of the state of his garrison,
+which no one could decipher. Drunkenness was the order of the day. A
+small log-shed with a hole about eighteen inches square was the only
+receptacle for such as could not stand. Into this they were thrust head
+foremost by those that could, and from which they came out, I suppose,
+when able to do so without help.
+
+The evening before we sailed some of our officers assembled for a
+convivial evening at the Commandant’s. In the middle of a song his wife
+withdrew behind a screen that divided the apartment, and a few minutes
+afterwards a noise, as from a kid, announced the birth of a child,
+which proved to be the son and heir. Instead of retiring and leaving
+the lady in her trouble, a toast was drunk and an impromptu song in
+honour of the little stranger. I had called on the lady two days before
+and observed nothing particular except that she looked like a Cossack
+without a beard.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 8.]
+
+Having completed coaling (coal six roubles per ton), and settled
+accounts, we weighed. Some twelve miles to the southward we had heard
+of a place, “Adnginoo,” with a river, and fish and crystals to be
+picked up; we came to abreast of it. The river, like all others along
+the coast, has a bar entrance--a short distance up it is exceedingly
+picturesque.
+
+Some of our party ascended in the light boats of the Gelyaks. There
+were the usual small villages at the mouth, with dried fish, sleigh
+dogs, confined bears, smell and dirt. Natives, a quiet inoffensive
+race, their only weapon a fish spear. One seining party had several
+good hauls, getting, besides salmon, what our fishermen called cucumber
+smelts; they certainly smelt of cucumber, and were good eating. Several
+fish were also taken. I pinned one down in the river with a boat-hook.
+With the dense wood and covert along the coast and mountains the nearly
+total absence of any living thing was remarkable. High up the river, a
+rather peculiar mussel was found, so thick and firmly implanted that
+the bottom of the river had the appearance of pavement. I obtained
+specimens. A fresh breeze having sprung up from the westward, we
+hurried our sportsmen on board and weighed under sail. There might have
+been crystal caves in the neighbourhood, but we found nothing beyond
+broken stones with small pieces of crystal attached. With the dredge I
+had no success.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCIV
+
+THE CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Aug. 14.]
+
+Came to in Vladivostock Harbour: usual salutes. Etholin, the
+Commandant, had promised a deer-shooting day before we left. Lately
+the rain had fallen regularly. The season was early, but our time and
+provisions were short. At an early hour _Ogle_, with fifty marines,
+landed to assist in driving. There was a small peninsula, the neck of
+which was not more than one hundred yards across.
+
+[Sidenote: Vladivostock.]
+
+The deer were in plenty, but not easily circumvented. Three only were
+seen to take to the isthmus; the remainder broke through the line of
+beaters, who were armed with pikes only. When our party of twelve
+arrived in steam launch, one of the three deer had taken to the water
+and escaped.
+
+A two-mile walk through swampy ground brought us to the isthmus, where
+the cordon of marines was drawn. Of our party, Rose volunteered when
+half-way through the swamp to go back and send the launch to the next
+bay. He met with his reward.
+
+Of the two deer that had been driven, one only turned up on the return,
+and observing the men stationed across the neck of land took to the
+water on the opposite side, to which the launch was coming. No time
+was lost in hauling the native boat, in tow, over the land into the
+sea on the opposite side; the young stag swam well, but a bullet from
+Rose’s gun divided the spine; the poor animal was brought in triumph
+to the shore. It was a large force to welcome the one trophy, but the
+excitement was great.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, Aug. 29.]
+
+At sunset flag was transferred to _Salamis_, and on 29th we parted
+company with _Rodney_, to meet again (D.V.) in four months’ time.
+_Basilisk_ had sailed at daylight for Hong Kong with our mails and
+herself for return home.
+
+[Sidenote: Hakodadi, Aug. 31.]
+
+Started for Hakodadi; arrived on 31st, but finding no coal proceeded
+same day. Some little excitement had been caused at Hakodadi by the
+arrival of one of the vessels engaged in the Macao coolie or slave
+trade. The old story--the coolies found they had been taken in; watched
+their opportunity, murdered the crew. They had evidently been to the
+coast of Siberia, and afterwards drifted into Volcano Bay, when some
+Japs brought them into Hakodadi.
+
+The first person on board was Mr. Butcher, our contractor, who, finding
+a British flag hoisted, claimed her as his property. The American
+Consul being next on board discovered _his_ national flag, on which he
+hauled down the English and substituted the stars and stripes. However,
+the Japs, being assured that they, in the absence of the real owner,
+had the best claim, took advantage of the darkness of night to take
+an overhand knot in the fly of the stripes and hoisted the Japanese
+flag: this was considered by the United States Consul a great insult
+to his nation; hence the excitement. A piece of absurdity in which I
+did not interfere, except in giving my opinion that the United States
+Consul had no more right to hoist his flag than our contractor had the
+English! However, I left them to settle it their own way.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama, Sept. 2.]
+
+At sunset we arrived in Yokohama Bay; found _Ocean_ and _Rattler_.
+Civil War progressing; the Mikado’s Government in possession. Our Naval
+Instructors of Japanese could not go on with their work, and not caring
+to be paid for nothing, tendered their resignations through me to Sir
+Harry Parkes.
+
+This the Japanese gladly accepted, as it enabled them to get rid of
+the French Military Instructors, who, through their late minister, had
+shown a decided preference to the Tycoon; besides, their demands for
+payment were out of proportion to their services. They were angry with
+the perfidious English for having set the example of not receiving pay
+for that they did not do. From information we had gained during our
+northern cruise, it was considered desirable that the Russians should
+be looked up, to the northward of Yesso, and as this was an affair in
+which the French minister considered they had an equal interest, the
+_Rattler_ and _Dupleix_ were told off for that service.
+
+The mail from England arrived, bringing me the sad news of my dear
+friend Rajah Brooke’s death; a final paralytic seizure from which he
+never rallied.
+
+[Sidenote: _Salamis_, Hong Kong, Sept. 24.]
+
+We started for Osaka, hurried to Nagasaki, communicated with _Rodney_
+at Woosung, went to Shanghai, Amoy, and Hong Kong, arriving there on
+October 14. Here was stationed the _Princess Charlotte_, bearing the
+broad pennant of Commodore Oliver Jones, an eccentric good fellow,
+who managed the dockyard and south part of the station; in the hot
+season he generally came on leave and joined the Commander-in-Chief in
+the north and cooler parts. The _Princess Charlotte_ was jury-rigged,
+the same I had seen launched at Portsmouth when the dock broke in
+September 1825. Jones kept the smaller vessels in a constant move, and
+I believe outdid his chief in hospitality. He was a good draughtsman as
+well, fond of sport; later on he ended his days in the hunting field.
+
+Heard at Hong Kong that on August 22 and 23 the home of Mr. Taylor and
+other members of the China Inland Mission had been attacked, pillaged,
+and partially burnt. The residents were pelted with stones, one having
+his sight much injured, while the wife of one of the missionaries,
+although far advanced in pregnancy, was obliged to jump out of a
+window. These missionary ladies do their hair in Chinese style, and
+wear the Chinese costume, and look remarkably well in it--from their
+fairness and size, being a vast improvement on their models.
+
+The outrages resulted from placards prepared by the literati of
+the district, who endeavoured to excite the rancour of the mob by
+proclaiming that the missionaries scooped out the eyes of the dying,
+and opened Foundling Hospitals that they might eat children and
+prepare medicine from their brains. Previous to the attack, Mr. Taylor
+earnestly sought protection from the local Chinese authorities, begging
+that the placards might be taken down, but without avail.
+
+The _Rinaldo_, Commander Robinson, proceeded to Chinkiang and Nankin
+on September 3, conveying Mr. Consul Medhurst from Shanghai, whose
+representations resulted in a proclamation acknowledging the right
+of foreigners to reside in the country, and enjoining the people to
+respect them. A promise was also made of reparation to those who were
+injured.
+
+At this stage, Commander Bush of the _Rinaldo_, having an attack of
+illness, started off to Shanghai, leaving Mr. Medhurst in a house-boat
+to settle the affair. No sooner was the protection or prestige of
+the man-of-war removed than the Chinese authorities became insolent,
+refusing to grant the Consul the interview he had a right to demand,
+and withdrew all their previous concessions. At the same time the
+literati published fresh placards, threatening to burn down any
+house rented by foreigners, refusing them the right of residence at
+Chinkiang. Mr. Medhurst, failing in his negotiation, returned to Hong
+Kong to await further instructions from Sir Rutherford Alcock.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]
+
+To Macao in packet steamer. Joined following day by _Salamis_.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, Affairs in Formosa, Nov. 1.]
+
+After we were under weigh in Macao roads, a gunboat joined us from
+Hong Kong with the northern mail, bringing pressing letters for my
+interference in Formosa. Having previously made arrangements for all
+contingencies, proceeded on the route I had arranged for visiting the
+southern part of the station. I had left the _Rodney_ at Shanghai, with
+instructions to Captain Heneage to carry out the views of the Consul,
+Mr. (afterwards Sir Walter) Medhurst, and render him every support.
+Directions were also given to prepare such a force as would overawe the
+troublesome Tontais in Formosa. Captain Heneage proceeded in _Rodney_,
+_Rinaldo_, and _Stanley_ in company, to Nankin, where he was reinforced
+by Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_ and the _Zebra_, Commander
+Trollope. Mr. Medhurst was on board the _Rodney_.
+
+It became apparent that the Viceroy, Tseng Kuo-fau, rested his faith on
+diplomatic fencing. The first step of our diplomacy was to seize the
+Chinese screw gunboat _Tien Chi_ as a material guarantee for fulfilment
+of the claims of our Consul. One of these was that proclamations
+engraved on stone should be erected in the principal places,
+acknowledging the full right of Europeans to reside and exercise their
+calling. Compensation was demanded for the injuries inflicted on the
+persons and property of the missionaries; these and some minor demands
+were at once conceded, and the gun-boat was released.
+
+Subsequently the Consul, accompanied by a strong landing party from the
+ships, under the immediate command of Captain Heneage, proceeded to
+Yeng Cheow, where they remained until the Viceroy’s concessions were
+enforced.
+
+During the past year British subjects and other foreigners have been
+repeatedly maltreated by people connected with the local authorities
+at Taiwan and Takan in Formosa. The Tontai attempted to carry out a
+monopoly of the camphor trade. Six thousand dollars’ worth of that
+drug, owned by Messrs. Ellis and Co., was seized. An Englishman named
+Haidore was stabbed. Dr. Maxwell, a missionary, was accused of murder,
+and the mode of proving his guilt was somewhat curious. A mob, bearing
+on their shoulders a native joss, carried it round the house, and
+suddenly stopping, the hand of the image was made to point to a certain
+spot, where they commenced digging.
+
+To the astonishment of the Doctor, a number of human bones were turned
+up, which, of course, had been previously placed there. Notice of
+this “discovery” was published, stating that the bones were those of
+Maxwell’s victims, and his house was burned down. The Consul, Mr.
+Gibson, when about to start for Pitows to confront Dr. Maxwell with his
+accusers, got information of three ambuscades prepared to intercept him
+on the road.
+
+Other outrages occurred and native Christians met with inhuman
+persecution. The Chinese authorities evaded our claims for redress;
+at one moment pretending to concede, at the next withdrawing their
+promises. The Tontai of Amoy was ordered from Peking, to proceed to
+Formosa and settle all existing difficulties; but he coolly informed
+Her Majesty’s Consul on his arrival that they appeared to him of so
+little importance, he was determined to return to Amoy without any
+practical investigation into the real state of affairs. Mr. Gibson saw
+that some material guarantee was necessary for the fulfilment of his
+claims, and requested Lieutenant Gurdon of the _Algerine_ to occupy
+Amping and the Fort of Zelandia, which forts constituted the key to the
+capital of Formosa, Tai-wan-foo, from which they are distant some 3000
+yards.
+
+The Tontai, having in the first instance agreed that Amping should be
+held as a guarantee, appears now to have ordered it to be put into a
+state of defence. Lieutenant Gurdon observed this and gave notice to
+the inhabitants of his intention. He then opened fire at about 2000
+yards from the pivot gun of _Algerine_. Finding, however, that he was
+unable to prevent the construction of earthworks--forty-one guns were
+already in position--he determined to surprise the camp at night. At
+10.30 P.M. Gurdon left the _Algerine_ in his gig, accompanied by the
+cutter, containing two officers and twenty-three men. He landed on the
+beach in a heavy surf about two miles below the town. The gig, in spite
+of precaution, was swamped.
+
+Having formed on the beach, he threw out skirmishers and advanced
+with caution, taking advantage of every inequality of ground. When
+within eight hundred yards, he observed Chinese moving about the
+fortifications, and the moon shining brightly, he made his men lie
+down under the cover of some rising ground until 2 A.M., when he made a
+rush, and was in the heart of the town before he was discovered. Gurdon
+got hold of a guide and at once proceeded to the Heptar’s Yamun, the
+door of which he burst in before he could get at the garrison, which
+consisted of about fifty men. They barricaded the door of an inner
+apartment, extinguished the lights, and, refusing to surrender, were
+fired on, when some eight were killed.
+
+It was, of course, not the time for Gurdon, with his handful of men, to
+show the slightest hesitation. The remainder of the Chinese soldiers
+broke down a door in their rear and escaped. It was daylight before
+Gurdon had time to take possession of Fort Zelandia and station his
+men, when the enemy were observed in force coming up from Tai-wan-foo,
+led by a mandarin carrying a yellow flag. They were received with
+such a deadly fire from the unerring Snider that in less than five
+minutes the mandarin’s men broke and fled, leaving our little force in
+possession. The loss of the Chinese during this little engagement was
+twenty-one killed and thirty-six wounded, while the mandarin, unable to
+face the disgrace, returned to his quarters and committed suicide.
+
+Gurdon belonged to Norfolk. He sent me some of his captured brass guns.
+
+The result of this action was the complete submission of the Tontai.
+The attempted monopoly of the camphor trade was broken down. The
+ringleaders in the outrage against Dr. Maxwell were punished by
+decapitation; pecuniary compensation was made to Ellis and Company
+for their losses, and a guarantee given for future good behaviour.
+However, there was dissatisfaction at Peking. The Prince of Kung
+pretended to be much annoyed at the manner in which this affair had
+been settled. Gibson got into a row with our Minister for having called
+upon Gurdon to proceed to such active measures, and he was in danger
+of being superseded. And yet negotiations had been going on for five
+months, during which time the Tontais had set their own Government, our
+Consuls, and all Treaty rights at defiance. I, too, had been preparing,
+at the request of our Minister, a powerful force that would have
+captured the Formosan capital, in spite of its garrison of 10,000 men,
+when the gallant Gurdon cut the Gordian knot and spoilt my “pidgin.”
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+There came in due time wiggings from the Foreign Office and the
+Admiralty, in spite of the success of the operations. Gurdon and
+I had the distinction of being traduced in the House of Commons.
+Subsequently, on comparing notes with our Ambassador at Peking, who
+had also been found fault with, we agreed how utterly ignorant our
+authorities at home were of the manners and customs of the Chinese, and
+have they not been so even since the time we are discussing? Wars have
+already occurred on far less provocation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCV
+
+THE COMMAND IN CHINA
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1868. Nov. 1.]
+
+At the same time we heard of the fresh complications in China, the mail
+brought news of the loss of the _Rattler_ on September 24, in Shakotan
+Bay. My grief was great. Poor _Rattler_; unlucky nephew! In the midst
+of their trouble the French sloop _Dupleix_, with the ever kind Captain
+du Petit Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
+
+[Sidenote: Saigon. Nov. 5.]
+
+We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There was no difficulty in finding
+a pilot off Cape St. James. We proceeded at once up the river to
+Saigon. On landing, was received by the French officials with every
+demonstration of respect. The Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays,
+and a mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House, where apartments
+for self and staff were ready. Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor
+and Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He had served in the
+French Naval Brigade in the Crimea; but we were on different Attacks,
+and did not meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F. Edmond de
+Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his mother was English, and he spoke
+our language fluently.
+
+[Sidenote: Saigon.]
+
+Saigon appears to have been well selected as a dockyard and arsenal;
+situated 25 miles up a river navigable for line-of-battle ships, it
+might be rendered invulnerable in these days of infernal machines:
+a legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except against an
+aggressor. In the arsenal were all the means of building ships-of-war.
+Several old line-of-battle lay in the river, besides an immense
+troopship, equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic and
+active. By means of convict labour, which they obtain from Bourbon,
+they carry on roads and raise buildings.
+
+The site for a magnificent city, with squares and palaces, is marked
+out; but the great thing wanted is population, which, in spite of
+the assurances of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by the natives,
+is now fast disappearing. In the temporary banquetting room, where I
+was entertained, were pictures of the Emperor and Empress, to which
+was added that of Isabella of Spain. Saddle horses were placed at our
+disposal. Visited a large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian
+mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a weedy-looking lot! There
+was a zealous and enterprising naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne,
+Directeur du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work unassisted.
+
+I was told that one road extended some 900 miles in a northerly
+direction, which must bring them not far from our Burmese possessions.
+We heard from the officers of the gunboats who make excursions up the
+river that they frequently get shots at elephants and that tigers
+are numerous. The sport may be good, but I should think the climate
+was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of curios was to be
+obtained, with the exception of small boxes and stands inlaid with
+mother-o’-pearl, in the making of which the natives seem to excel.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]
+
+Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back as I had arrived.
+When taking leave of Admiral Ohier on shore, I requested him not to
+return my visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for that he
+paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed without giving me an opportunity
+of waiting on him. I was off the following morning for Singapore, where
+we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before paying a long
+promised visit to Siam.
+
+[Sidenote: Bankok, Nov. 15.]
+
+We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General, Colonel Knox,
+kindly offered me the hospitality of the Consulate. W. H. Read was
+already there, having come up at my request to settle some consular
+matters which required attention. The young King Khoulalonkorn had but
+recently succeeded his father, whose obsequies were proceeding.
+
+In one of the principal temples, the remains of His Majesty were placed
+in a huge silver urn, from which a ribbon passed through the hands
+of numerous priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for the
+repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue for a year, after
+which all that is left of the departed is consigned to the flames.
+Nothing could exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent and
+good-looking youth. Banquets and entertainments were the order of the
+day, and there was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples,
+palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque scenery.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]
+
+On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short visit, and arrived at
+Singapore on the 27th.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
+
+Weighed and steamed to the westward.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]
+
+Came to in Penang Roads.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]
+
+Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin and little May, who were
+quickly embarked.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]
+
+Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command, with wife and kids
+on board, my kind old friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside
+Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it was scarcely discovered
+when in the _Mæander_. I recommended it to a shifting Board of
+Admiralty as the fittest coaling station in the Far East.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 19. Labuan.]
+
+Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was the first on board; he had
+a grievance. The officer in command of a gunboat had declined to
+fire a royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so, on Mr.
+Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained that owing to accidents no
+man-of-war mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a salute.
+However, I was told that the zealous Governor had dug up some old
+buried guns, and had his salute fired, not quite to regular time.
+
+Vast improvements had been made since our last visit. Mr. Hugh Low,
+the Secretary, had married his daughter to the Governor. Low was a
+botanist, and had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo. Dr.
+Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government appointment. De
+Crespigny had left the navy and become a Resident. We remained till the
+23rd.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]
+
+Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received as before in _Dido_,
+and again in the _Mæander_. It has altered little in the past
+five-and-twenty years, except to become more like a town on the
+Riviera than those one finds in the East under our own flag. There are
+plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome boulevard, cafés, and
+bands playing.
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Jan. 1.]
+
+We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we began to experience what
+it was to face the north-east monsoon. All my party were prostrate.
+_Salamis_ was so sudden in her movements that cots were given up and
+beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a burning fever--caught, we
+supposed, at Labuan--patient and good, calling only for drink, but
+unable to bear clothing.
+
+[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Jan. 3.]
+
+At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel Garnier started to ask Dr.
+Hill to come from the _Melville_, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady
+Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our reception at Government
+House, where we went on arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in
+attendance. After consultations, they tried to persuade us that Colin
+would pull through. On service, wives and children ought to remain at
+home!
+
+However, the boy soon mended.
+
+Nothing could have been more fortunate than the quarters into which
+we had been so kindly received. There was scarcely a person in Hong
+Kong who did not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better than any
+nurse. Our children were much at the Bertrand’s, where their charming
+little daughter, Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no
+business in a sailor’s log!
+
+Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the true Irish hospitality
+with which we were entertained I should have fancied we were
+over-staying our welcome. The flagship _Rodney_ did not put in an
+appearance until the 21st. She had then to make good defects, and leave
+was due to the crew.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]
+
+We started, children and all, by the 8 A.M. steamer to pay a visit
+to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun in Canton. Nothing could be
+prettier than the passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when we
+came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to relate of bygone days.
+There, too, to the northward, was the fort I, with a small squadron,
+in 1857, was instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by the
+Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke the cap and sword
+which the Chinese Governor threw away that he might not be recognized.
+After a short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of Canton, where
+Robertson waited with chairs to receive us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a
+few days previously from the north, came with us in the steamer, and
+was also put up by Robertson.
+
+Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show all there was. But we had
+arranged to return in a day or two, and our time would not allow of our
+seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon wished. We, however, saw
+one or two joss-houses, only curious when the meaning of the various
+grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained. The City of the Dead
+was the most extraordinary. It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch,
+as if it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all those who
+can afford it deposit their dead until some auspicious day for the
+funeral occurs, which may not be for years. Others who, having come
+from some distant province to hold office under Government, deposit
+their dead relatives in these clean and snug lodgings until they have
+made their fortunes, or are turned out, as the case may be.
+
+The city is composed of one-storied houses, the streets straight and
+painfully quiet; some of the houses contained one, but the others
+two or three coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks
+burning in most, with a change of raiment and other little comforts
+the departed might require, and as there were a few priests about, I
+daresay the “comforts” were appreciated.
+
+Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at the Consul’s Yamun, I
+was obliged to leave the sightseers and had not time to partake of
+an excellent luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of
+followers, and had only donned my uniform in time to enter the room as
+the Consul received him with a salute of three guns.
+
+Our interview was the same as on a previous occasion, only now, as
+established old friends, we were much more cordial. The children amused
+themselves in the small, walled park attached to the Yamun, but a
+change of weather and a cutting N.E. wind coming on, our experienced
+friend the Archdeacon cautioned us to be careful.
+
+Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return found a despatch
+from the Commodore detailing an outrage at Swatow, in which some
+well-known, ill-disposed villagers had fired into the _Cockchafer’s_
+boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and the Commodore, pending
+further instructions, was preparing to punish the offenders.
+
+It was fortunate my being in Canton with the Consul, as it enabled
+us at once to communicate with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his
+jurisdiction. The boats of the _Cockchafer_, when away exercising
+up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the inhabitants of the
+semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi.
+
+The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate with the headman of
+the village, but as he could get no one to conduct him to his house,
+he seized a well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had witnessed
+the outrage, that he might take him before the Consul at Swatow to be
+examined.
+
+Without further provocation the villagers opened fire on the
+_Cockchafer’s_ boats, who, finding themselves opposed to some six
+hundred Chinese, made a running fight of it, as they retreated down the
+river, killing and wounding several of their assailants, returning with
+the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously, and eight others, in a
+less degree, wounded.
+
+I at once placed myself in communication with the Viceroy of the two
+Kwang provinces. That part of the department, Quang Tung, lying to
+the northward and eastward of Canton had long resisted the Imperial
+Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they themselves levied blackmail
+on traders passing from Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five
+to six thousand troops was gradually making its way to Chow-Chow-Fou,
+bringing the villages under subjection as it marched.
+
+The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and Po-leng had on one
+occasion roasted alive the mandarin who had been sent to govern them.
+They placed another mandarin between two planks and sawed him in
+halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for the army to advance,
+and appointed two Commissioners, with a force and a couple of gunboats,
+to co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of the offending
+villages. The Commodore was ordered to take command of the _Rinaldo_,
+_Perseus_, _Leven_, _Bouncer_, and _Cockchafer_, together with a party
+of seamen and marines from the _Rodney_.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.]
+
+These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded to Swatow, with orders
+to make preparations, but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and
+Chinese forces. I, intending to follow in the _Salamis_, returned to
+Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on board her, and left same
+afternoon. Whether the Commodore thought that I should personally
+supersede him in the command, I do not know. When I arrived at Swatow
+on the 31st, I found he had neglected the latter part of his orders,
+and the morning after his arrival, without waiting for the Viceroy’s
+Commissioners, proceeded to land his marines and march up the banks to
+protect the boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led to the
+offending villages.
+
+At 8 A.M. (28th January) an advance was made on the village of
+Tang-Tau, which, together with that of Po-leng, had assisted the
+villages of Ou-teng-foi in their attack. These three villages offered
+more or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first to open
+fire, and showed a bold front, but the Sneiders soon doubled up those
+who did not take the earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men
+advanced. Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was spared, as the inhabitants
+made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi, which was barricaded, had their
+defences destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was difficult to
+ascertain the amount of loss of the villagers, as they were smart in
+carrying off their killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking they
+were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and returned to his ships. No
+looting of any sort was allowed, although geese and poultry were in
+plenty.
+
+Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being Lieutenant Herbert
+Gye, whose face and hands were badly burned by an explosion of
+gunpowder lying loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to
+set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed before and behind
+by two Chinamen who rushed on him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was
+wounded in the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap armed
+with a spear and intended for greater mischief.
+
+The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages sent in their
+submission in the following terms, translated from the original:--
+
+  _Humble Petition_--
+
+  The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi.
+
+  On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your great
+  country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened, and, racing away,
+  foolishly excited our people to attack them, for which the great army
+  has entered our villages and punished us.
+
+  We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg,
+  undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that men and
+  women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly for coming
+  generations under your favour.
+
+  Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc.
+
+Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised that the force I was
+about to send from Hong Kong should wait to co-operate with his and his
+Commissioners, was greatly disappointed, and I expect our Minister at
+Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be the same.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
+
+10 A.M.--Weighed, and stood out of river Canton.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]
+
+Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min, and anchored off Pagoda.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCVI
+
+THE NORTHERN PORTS
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Shanghai, Feb. 21.]
+
+_Salamis_ arrived at Shanghai; at anchor off naval yard. When on a
+visit to Sir Rutherford Alcock at Peking, in September 1867, he, having
+been applied to by the merchants at Chin-kiang on the subject of
+opening the Poyang Lake to steam navigation, expressed a wish that, if
+an opportunity offered, I should visit and report on its capabilities.
+The subject of the new treaty and fresh ports to be opened having been
+discussed by the Chamber of Commerce here, and affairs either in Japan
+or China not requiring my immediate presence, I decided on gratifying
+a long-cherished wish of ascending the Yang-tse-kiang as far as
+practicable in the _Salamis_.
+
+Mr. Swinhoe, our late Consul at Taiwan, Formosa, a scholar, linguist,
+and naturalist, has been selected by Sir Rutherford to visit and report
+on such ports as are most desirable for trade; particularly near that
+part of the Great River, the Poyang Lake, and above Hankow, even as far
+as the province of Sechuen. In compliance with the Minister’s request,
+the _Opossum_ gun-boat waits at Hankow to convey Mr. Swinhoe whither he
+will.
+
+The Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, more particularly interested in the
+opening of new treaty ports, has selected Mr. Michi, an enterprising
+traveller, and well acquainted with the value of teas and silks,
+to proceed, at their request, with Mr. Swinhoe. Another gentleman,
+Mr. Francis, accompanies them. The Chamber of Commerce at Shanghai
+having also got the firm of Jardine and Company to lend their small
+steam-vessel, she will be attached to the _Opossum_, with such
+surveying officers as Brooker can dispatch from the _Sylvia_. Although
+they will hardly have time to complete a survey of the river above
+Hankow, they will be able to verify that of Captain Blakiston. On
+Monday, February 8, we left the hospitable roof of Mr. Lavers, of the
+firm of Gilman and Co., and started in the _Salamis_.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, March.]
+
+The space between Shanghai and Hankow is now well-beaten ground, owing
+to the Company’s steamers, which start both ways every two or three
+days according to the freights they ship, carrying a large number of
+passengers, the majority of whom are Chinese. The chief interest to
+me is that twenty-seven years ago, when in the _Dido_, we formed one
+of a large fleet of upwards of seventy men-of-war and transports, all
+of which succeeded in getting up without the use of steam as far as
+Nankin, which brought about peace and the signing of the treaty which
+bore that name.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]
+
+At sunset on Tuesday the 9th we came to off Chin-kiang, promising to
+visit Silver Island on our return. On the following morning we found
+that Mr. Allen, the Vice-Consul, and several other gentlemen, among
+whom was a son of my old friend Carnie of former days at Singapore,
+hearing of my weakness that way, had prepared a shooting excursion to
+Deer Island, some six miles up the river.
+
+As they could easily return with the current, we took the whole party
+on board the _Salamis_, and before noon proceeded up the river and
+anchored off the island, a long flat of about seven miles by four, and,
+except at the time when we arrived, covered with long and strong reeds,
+which the natives were cutting for thatch or fuel, making at same time
+temporary, but not uncomfortable, huts to live in. There was no lack
+of game or sportsmen, and from the quantity of firing the bag ought to
+have been a large one: seven deer, and a few varieties of duck, teal,
+and quail, was the result. The deer were what are called “hog,” with a
+coarse rough hair and a peculiar tusk protruding, boar fashion, from
+the jaw. We had an agreeable day and dined together in the wardroom,
+the Chin-kiang party not leaving until late.
+
+[Sidenote: Nankin, Mar. 11.]
+
+Weighed at daylight, and came to off Nankin, but not in time to
+perform an excursion to the Ming Tombs; people wishing to visit these
+comfortably should write beforehand and have ponies or chairs ready. We
+mounted the city wall on the highest point of the hill to the eastward,
+the view from whence gives a good idea of the vast extent of water and
+of the desolation inside. Fresh-looking ship guns marked U.S.R.M.,
+which I read “United States Republic Marine,” were mounted and brought
+to bear on the only anchorage fit for ships of any size; they were
+about 42-pounders, of a pattern now obsolete, and had evidently been
+placed since the visit of the _Rodney_.
+
+Having been on the top of the great Porcelain Tower when it stood
+prominent in its magnificence, I did not care to go now, as travellers
+do, to seek for bricks among its ruins.
+
+I have a printed copy of a letter addressed by the Shanghai General
+Chamber of Commerce to W. H. Medhurst, Esq., in reply to an application
+from our Minister at Peking, in which they enumerate the different
+ports they think desirable should be opened. Among them is Wu-hu. Wu-hu
+is situated about two miles above the mouth of a tributary stream, on
+the right bank of the Yang-tse, about sixty miles above Nankin.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
+
+We anchored off this for a couple of hours on the afternoon of the
+12th, when I proceeded up the creek with Swinhoe, Dob Crosbie, and the
+pilot, and landed near the walled town. The whole right bank, and part
+of the left, had trading junks thickly stowed side by side with ends
+on to the shore, which gave proof of a vast amount of commerce; while,
+judging from the buildings in progress, both city and suburbs were
+gradually recovering from the effects of the late Civil War.
+
+It is curious to note that early travellers in China have described
+the country as either a “vast plain” or “an enormous fertile valley.”
+More variation of surface, perhaps, does not appear in any country, and
+where we should be most inclined to look for such features, namely on
+its great artery, it is diversified enough to please the most exacting
+of tourists.
+
+Commencing at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang, there is naturally a
+considerable extent of flat alluvial land, the delta of the river,
+where once, no doubt the ocean held its sway. But soon we come to hills
+and high lands, and at Chin-kiang the eye is delighted with the steep
+and rugged cliffs. About Nankin the country is prettily broken into
+ridges and hills, and before reaching far above this, mountains shut in
+the river on either side.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]
+
+On the afternoon of the 13th we passed close to Nankin (pronounced and
+spelt Bankin by our civil and communicative pilot, with a strong nasal
+twang), such as might be found in the United States, and to which I
+have ceased to object. He had often passed up here during the wars in
+1861, in a vessel that was always ready to supply with “munitions” the
+side that could pay best.
+
+He pointed out the fort close to the river bank on the east side of
+the Pagoda, once in possession of the Imperialists, while the rebels
+held the city, the nearest wall of which was not a quarter of a mile
+distant. There were also the stern posts to which two rebel chiefs
+had been chained until released by death. The city subsequently
+surrendered, when every living soul was put to death, and for weeks
+after, decapitated bodies infested the river for miles. It was on
+passing these batteries that Lord Elgin was fired at, on which occasion
+young Birch, who had been one of my youngsters in the _Raleigh_, lost
+an arm.
+
+Our pilot not being quite as much at home as those who work the trading
+steamers, we always came to in the evening; besides, our hurry was not
+such as to prevent one seeing what was to be seen during daylight.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]
+
+Weighing on 14th, by a little after 11 o’clock we came up with one of
+the most picturesque objects on the river, a rock rising abruptly,
+called the “Little Orphan”; but the day was dull and a mist hung over
+the adjacent country: the right thing would have been to ascend a small
+pagoda on the top and enjoy a splendid view. Shortly afterwards we
+saw the Orphan Rock in the entrance of the Poyang Lake, standing in
+bold relief, the guardian of the passage. On the left of the entrance
+is Hu-kau, a temple within a high picturesque wall, where resides a
+Chinese Admiral with his war junks.
+
+The legend of the Orphan Rock, told us by the pilot, is, that in bygone
+ages a Chinaman, with his wife and two children, was crossing the
+river, when his boat was upset in a storm. The parents at once sank,
+but a kind turtle rising to the surface, took the children on his back,
+and instead of making for the shore, appears to have swum up stream,
+when after a while one of the children slipped off and was drowned,
+when there arose the rock now called “The Little Orphan.” The turtle
+then made for the Poyang Lake with his second charge, but before he
+reached the shoal the other child fell off at the spot where the rock
+rose out of the water called “The Great Orphan.” The benevolent turtle
+then died too, and his broken heart formed a huge rock not far from the
+resting-place of the lost child.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday.]
+
+We anchored off Chin-kiang as the bell was tolling for afternoon
+service. Our appearance had caused the clergyman to delay the service
+twenty minutes, but as we were not informed, his kind intention was
+lost on us. This was one of the open ports selected on the river. Like
+most of the towns on the southern bank of the Yang-tse, it had been in
+the hands of the rebels, the effects of whose ravages were apparent. It
+is a neat little settlement, with European-looking houses, a Bund in
+front, and the handsome range of Lien-Shan mountains for a background.
+The merchants here had long been aware of the advantages to trade that
+would accrue by the opening of a port or ports on the Poyang Lakes,
+with permission to ply steamers either as traders or tugs. As yet the
+Chinese authorities, blind to their advantage, have been opposed to the
+use of steam in the inner waters.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
+
+With the assistance of the _Faust_, a small steamboat of about forty
+tons, kindly lent us by Jardine Mathieson’s firm at Shanghai, it was
+my intention to have explored this lake, and I determined to wait her
+arrival. She was to have followed us in tow of one of the American
+steamers that run between Hankow and Shanghai. This proposed expedition
+caused no small sensation in the settlement. Those who could not get
+stowed away on board the _Salamis_, got ready their house-boats; two
+started for the scene of action at once, as they knew their craft were
+of too frail a construction to stand a tug of a greater rate than three
+knots per hour.
+
+While detained waiting for the _Faust_, several shooting parties went
+forth, but with small results; those who went prepared only for snipe
+fell in with duck, and _vice versa_. However, a little earlier in the
+season, game of all sorts must be plentiful. Pheasants, ducks, teal,
+and the hog deer were to be purchased.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]
+
+The steamer from Shanghai arrived on the 17th, but without the
+_Faust_, owing to a defect in her machinery. I therefore determined on
+proceeding for Hankow without further delay, promising, if possible, to
+explore the Poyang on my return, when we shall have the advantage of
+several feet rise of water.
+
+4.15 P.M.--Slipped from buoy to run up as far as we could before dark,
+so as to ensure our reaching Hankow on the following day.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]
+
+Weighed at five. We soon came to the most beautiful scenery we had yet
+met with. High hills rising immediately from the bank, with woods,
+a great improvement on the shrubs we had hitherto passed. The Spit
+Rock is a peculiar feature in a narrow pass. The high-water line was
+distinctly marked on the rocks some twenty feet above where we were.
+Among the curious things we met were immense timber rafts, each with
+its street of wooden houses. We came to off Hankow. Found _Opossum_
+and a Russian gunboat, an old acquaintance of the Gulf of Tartary.
+
+The good people of Hankow are noted for their hospitality, and before
+leaving Shanghai, quarters were offered us in both the houses of
+Jardine and Mathieson, and Gilman and Co. We had agreed with Mr. Lavers
+to go to whichever house we should inconvenience the least, and they
+were to settle it between them. We were claimed by Mr. and Mrs. Ramsay,
+old friends of Mr. Gilman. A good fellow, Mr. Beveridge of Jardine’s
+house, expressed great disappointment at our not going to him, but most
+kindly took instead the whole of my staff, including Dob.
+
+[Sidenote: Hankow.]
+
+Hankow is only separated from Wu-chang and Han-yang by the Han and
+Yang-tse rivers. The surrounding country is flat, and as I could not
+look with commercial eyes on the adjacent cities, with their numerous
+junks that lined the shore, especially at the junction of the Han,
+where they seemed to form a deadlock, I am afraid I was a little
+disappointed with the celestial emporium. On shore, and along the
+walls, the high-water mark was clearly defined; about every three or
+four years the country is inundated, without, however, affecting the
+health of the place. Our countrywomen, and particularly the children,
+looked fresh and blooming.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCVII
+
+MEMORIES OF GORDON
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Hankow, Mar. 19]
+
+Mr. Caine, the Consul, and son of my old friend of former China days,
+having given notice of my intention the day previous, at 10 A.M. we
+crossed the river to Wu-chang, that I might pay my respects to the
+Viceroy. Besides the Consul and myself our party consisted of Swinhoe,
+Mr. Davenport, the consular interpreter, and Keppel Garnier, Flag
+Lieutenant. The Viceroy was Li Hung Chang, who had fought for eighteen
+years against the Tai-peng rebels and was considered the first general
+in the Imperialist Army.
+
+Gordon had held a command as brigadier-general under him, and Li it was
+who so treacherously put to death Lar Wang and nine of the rebel chiefs
+at the surrender of Soo-chow, on 7th December 1863, although Gordon
+had pledged himself for their safety. The only time that Gordon was
+known to carry arms were the two days after the execution of the Wangs,
+when, had he fallen in with Li, there would have been two holes in Li’s
+yellow waistcoat!
+
+Besides my curiosity to see this celebrated scoundrel, I wanted the
+loan of a most convenient little steamer, the _Hyson_, now lying in the
+river, which had performed such wonderful feats in co-operation with
+Gordon during the war.
+
+We landed about a quarter of a mile below a pagoda, just built or
+renovated, on the point where the city wall touches the river. Chairs,
+with the official number of bearers, were found ready, proceeded at
+once inside the city walls to the Viceroy’s Yamun. There was the usual
+rush of guards and deliberation before the outer gates were opened,
+although we were only punctual to our time.
+
+There is a regular etiquette on all ceremonial visits as to how far
+you may advance in your chair towards the first door of the three
+apartments, at which you are met by the person you visit.
+
+[Sidenote: Wu-chang.]
+
+I received the honour due to the highest rank, and was placed on a
+raised platform on the left of the Viceroy Li. Tea was ready, and
+another table with sweetmeats--the usual compliments of asking your
+age, health, and the balance of your family.
+
+Before I proceeded to announce my intention of proceeding up the river,
+His Excellency hoped I would not attempt to do so, urging that the
+natives were troublesome and unaccustomed to foreigners, and he could
+not be responsible for them. I replied that I had no fear with the
+passport of so great a man. To this he made objections and excuses. We
+then gathered round the sweetmeats and replied to numerous questions
+about armament and guns, all showing a warlike tendency.
+
+Viceroy Li is a tall, hard-looking man, and I should think quite
+capable of ridding himself and his country of any number of rebel
+kings, whether a British officer had become security or not. He seemed
+to take a great fancy to my Bath Star, and said he should recommend me
+to the Emperor for the distinguished order of the Imperial Dragon.
+
+Our interview lasted for over an hour.
+
+We took our departure for the residence of the Reverend Mr. John,
+one of the greatest travellers in China, at whose house we found a
+real English luncheon. He had a pretty, lively little daughter and a
+wife who shared his labours. Mr. John afterwards accompanied us to
+the curio-shops, which were poorly provided and inferior to those in
+Hankow. He gave us much valuable information from the experience he had
+gained in the Upper Yang-tse, and seemed to think the _Salamis_ would
+have little difficulty in getting up to I-Chang, about 15 miles below
+the first rapids.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]
+
+Among those we visited was the Russian Consul, who concocted a
+delicious beverage out of some rare green tea; so scarce that in a
+twelvemonth he could seldom succeed in getting more than 120 lbs., and
+that went to Russia for the Emperor’s use. There are several Russian
+merchants who have been located for years in the interior cities
+carrying on an extensive trade in furs, as well as silks and tea.
+
+Russians appear to have a greater facility in acquiring languages than
+other nations. In spite of the rain, cold, and damp, and anything but
+the best of meat, certainly the worst of cooking, we enjoyed ourselves.
+
+[Sidenote: Hankow, Mar. 21.]
+
+_Sunday._--We were astonished at the appearance, before tiffin, of our
+mail from England, four days before the expected time. Two Admirals
+dead, and I top of list of Vice; _Rodney_ ordered home.
+
+There is a neat little church in course of construction. Clergyman a
+Mr. MacClatchy; his wife a sister of Sir Harry Parkes.
+
+Of course there was a race-course, an agreeable and innocent amusement,
+our host being among the light weights and about the best rider. The
+old course was outside the city walls, on a flat some 12 miles in
+extent with scarcely a tree to be seen. In winter, I am told, the flat
+is covered with bustards, geese, and hares.
+
+[Illustration: _May and Webb._]
+
+The vessel that brought the mail did not bring the long-expected
+_Faust_, and our departure was deferred. The good Doctor Gregory kindly
+volunteering to look after my belongings, we left them, with the worthy
+Webb to help: it was not so bad an arrangement.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]
+
+At 3 P.M. the _Fusiama_ steamer put in an appearance, with the _Faust_
+in tow. She was quickly in readiness to proceed, but Risk had too much
+work to get through, so the early morning was fixed for our next start.
+_En route_ to take leave of the children, found them with Webb in sad
+distress over a string of rats secured by wire to a six-foot stick.
+With the _Faust_ came up two surveying officers, Dawson from _Sylvia_,
+and Palmer, who had been serving in the _Insolent_ at Chefoo. We
+managed to get two Chinese pilots, who knew something of the river as
+far as Yoh-chow, at the entrance of the Tung-ting Lake. We had also our
+Shanghai pilot, Mr. Pendleton, an intelligent man, experienced in river
+navigation. With all this staff, and the _Opossum_ some days ahead to
+look out for difficulties, the knowing ones were betting that I should
+never reach I-Chang. There is a good and well-conducted club at Hankow.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]
+
+At 8 A.M. we had taken leave of the children and friends; a few
+minutes after we were on our way to the interior of the Celestial
+Empire--_Faust_, and a native boat hired by Messrs. Francis and Michi
+to sleep in, in tow. Cannot say much for the interesting scenery, for
+though the whole country is scarcely raised above the level of the
+river from July to October, at the present time we were twenty feet
+below. Except where there was a village we were steaming between mud
+walls, on the top of which a few natives, or a boy on a buffalo with
+the sky for a background, appeared, to break the monotony. When I say
+between mud walls, the river was seldom less than half a mile wide.
+We anchored at sunset, having had much bother with the hired native
+boat. These craft are loosely put together, and do not stand towing
+at any speed. This one looked like a lashed-up hammock. The woman on
+board with a child in her arms roared to be released, declaring the
+boat was filling and calling to her countrymen on the banks to come to
+her rescue; but when Messrs Michi and Francis went on board the boat
+was found to be all right, no attention was paid to her, while she
+continued to roar and wipe her tears with the arm of her child, while
+her crew joined in chorus: one of them, to prove his distress, lay on
+his back kicking the air with his nailed boots.
+
+[Sidenote: Tung-ting Lake, Mar. 26.]
+
+At about 3 P.M. we had struck off from the Yang-tse to go down the
+branch that leads to the Tung-ting Lake, and five miles farther came
+to off Yo-chow, situated at the outlet. A high wall hid from our view
+the city, which appears to have been built on a bluff; for healthiness
+it must be as well, or better, than any of the towns we had passed.
+Yo-chow is the great port for the wealthy province of Hainan, and I
+should imagine well adapted for one of the Treaty Ports, but, opening
+it would shut up Hankow, where sufficient money has already been
+expended.
+
+[Sidenote: Yo-chow.]
+
+There was a good assortment of trading junks; two customs Government
+boats were showily decorated, the Captain was entertaining a tea
+party. Our surveying officers landed to take sights for chronometers
+and soon collected a crowd, some of whom, when the officers had picked
+up their instruments and turned their backs to go down to the boat,
+began hooting and throwing stones, a number of specimens of which were
+brought on board; some of them quite big enough to have knocked a man
+off his thwart.
+
+Observing what was going on, I ordered a blank gun to be fired to
+remind them that we were a vessel-of-war, and might pitch something
+into them that would hit harder than stones. I asked Swinhoe, who was
+just shoving off from the ship, to go alongside the Government vessel
+and demand an explanation. The Captain, who was at that moment sitting
+down to entertain his guests, said that, seeing the gathering of roughs
+that was taking place, he had despatched a messenger to the Prefect,
+telling him of the outrage and recommending his sending down a force to
+keep the peace; informing him that a great British Admiral had arrived
+with a thousand men, and that he would assuredly avenge the insult.
+
+Swinhoe informed this officer he had better go on board and explain
+matters to the Admiral. The customs official, who had some misgivings
+as to the propriety of trusting himself within the power of an incensed
+British Admiral, hesitated. He held many consultations with his guests,
+and they all appeared to think he ran great risk; but on Swinhoe
+assuring him that he could not answer for the consequences if he did
+not go and explain, at the end of three-quarters of an hour he figged
+himself up with another cup of tea, and, taking his pink-buttoned hat,
+with its hanging feather, like a fox’s brush, he resigned himself to
+his fate, took leave of his fat friends and descended with Swinhoe into
+the _Salamis_ boat.
+
+Seeing him coming, I had only just time to put on uniform and a _war_
+expression, when he was ushered on board.
+
+After the usual “chin chin,” we were seated opposite one another,
+when he broke out in a nervous, but loud voice to explain matters.
+I informed him that it was a very serious offence; that by treaty a
+man-of-war was allowed to go to any part of China and have protection;
+that the affair at Swatow commenced in the same way by some roughs,
+over whom the authorities professed to have no control, throwing
+stones, which ended in my having to destroy three large towns, with
+great loss of life to the inhabitants.
+
+I told him, in this case, one presumed the Governor was not aware we
+were coming, and I should content myself with reporting to Peking the
+treatment my officers, while unarmed, had received. I requested the
+official to inform the Governor that, when I returned, a life would,
+probably, be taken for every stone thrown! He then thanked me for my
+forbearance, and, I imagine, was glad when he found himself again with
+his tea party.
+
+Having landed our Hankow pilots, failed in getting others for I-Chang,
+but as we got our sights, there was no further cause for detention. The
+ill feeling by a few roughs was anything but the prevailing one among
+the natives, who swarmed alongside to see the ship, bringing vegetables
+and sweetmeats for sale.
+
+Two or three boats full of the fishing cormorants amused us amazingly:
+they had probably been fishing in the clear waters of the lake. The
+birds were perched all over the boat, on the gunnels, on the top of
+the covering, or anywhere they could get a footing. Although each had
+a small line to one leg, none of them were secured; there were perhaps
+twenty in each boat.
+
+The fish they had caught were of various sorts, and, strange to say,
+the perch, with its prickly fin, that a pike will refuse to touch, was
+not the least common among those in the tub; in fact, while the man
+was holding the fish-tub, one of the cormorants shoved his beak in and
+seized a large perch. He, in his turn, was seized by the throat and
+made to disgorge. I noticed that the man cleverly turned the fish round
+in the throat of the cormorant, so that it came out head foremost.
+It would have puzzled the cormorant to have got rid of it otherwise,
+unless the perch had gone clean through him. I was anxious to ascertain
+how the Chinaman prevented the fish passing into the stomach of the
+cormorant, and found that it was by a twist of straw tied just tight
+enough round the lower part of the neck to hold a fish of about 3/4
+lb. When we started I daresay the roughs went home rejoicing, thinking
+they had driven us away. We weighed about an hour before sunset, and
+turned down the stream to where we had diverged from the Yang-tse, in
+which we brought up for the night.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]
+
+We weighed at daylight, with Blakiston’s geographical flying survey of
+the river as our only guide. This, officers had enlarged to a scale
+of one inch to the mile. We managed between 70 and 80 miles the first
+day, without accident beyond that of fouling a junk that persisted in
+placing itself under our bows, turn which way we would. No great damage
+done: a Chinaman was knocked overboard from the junk, but he managed
+to take a plank with him. It is so seldom that a Chinaman ever helps a
+drowning man, that we stopped a few minutes until we saw him picked up.
+
+There was but little variety in the scenery. One remarkable object was
+the skeleton of a large forest tree, noticed also by Blakiston. The
+only way to account for its standing alone in a country where fuel is
+scarce, is that it must have been struck by lightning, when it would be
+considered a thing accursed! If a junk is struck by lightning she is
+deserted. Porpoises continued to tumble over, and bottles that floated
+past gave indication that we were not the first Europeans up the
+Yang-tse.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, Mar. 28.]
+
+As if to made up for our good fortune on the previous day, we
+frequently touched the bottom. Came to at Shi-show.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]
+
+We had gone but a short distance after daylight when we suddenly came
+into shoal water. The vessel was quickly stopped and her head put
+at another point without success. This operation was repeated four
+times, each attempt a little farther towards mid-channel. Whether
+the commander was losing patience, and made the last more spitefully
+than before, he certainly managed to fix her as firmly as on a rock
+on a sandbank about mid-channel. Every attempt to heave her off after
+lightening failed; but the _Opossum_ had orders not to proceed farther
+than where there was a channel for us, and she must be some way ahead.
+A sandbank soon formed on the side opposite to the current, on which
+the men walked; but this, our experienced American pilot assured us,
+was a matter of course, on grounding on a sandbank in a river with a
+rapid current.
+
+The _Faust_ was got ready and preparing for a start to Shi-show for
+junks, by which we might lighten ourselves, when the outline of three
+Europeans, with the sky for a background, appeared on the edge of
+the bank which formed our mud wall. They were from the _Opossum_,
+having heard from a native boat of our position. On consultation, it
+was decided that our case was merely one that required patience: the
+current would take its time, and eventually release us; we might be
+twisted about and fresh banks appear, but in the end we should be
+floated off, and none the worse.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
+
+Shooting parties landed, bringing on board a tolerable bag: ducks and
+teal had not yet taken their departure for their summer abode; several
+pheasants, hares, and snipe. We supplied _Opossum_ with what coal she
+could stow, while her native pilot held out hopes of taking us up to
+I-Chang.
+
+[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]
+
+Shortly before 4 A.M., the rush of the stream chain through the
+hawse-hole, and a tremulous motion, informed me that we were off the
+bank, while the other bower anchor brought us up in the channel.
+It took us the remainder of the day to recover our anchors, stream
+chain, and hawsers. On the Sabbath afternoon I invited Risk, my
+secretary, to accompany me in a stroll. My feelings were shocked to
+see him, on landing, produce a gun and well-stocked bag of cartridges,
+while Ponto, a pointer, but a still better retriever, soon came on
+the scent of game. Snipe and teal got up in twos and threes, a fair
+proportion falling to Risk’s gun. The temptation was too much for
+me. Borrowing the gun, while Risk looked on, in the course of a few
+moments I returned him an empty cartridge bag. Fortunately he had a few
+cartridges left, and was rewarded by a brace or two of pheasants on the
+homeward journey. The spring snipe afford splendid shooting, even up to
+May, as they work north to their breeding grounds by easy stages. The
+birds are nearly double the ordinary size, the result, I presume, of
+good feeding in the pâdi-fields. Bags of even fifty couple a gun await
+a good shot.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCVIII
+
+YANG-TSE-KIANG TRIP
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. April 1.]
+
+Pilot on board; we were ready for a further start up the river, but
+found I had been imposed on. The pilot had agreed to take us as far as
+Shi-show, but had not stated when he could take us on to I-Chang. As
+time was the only thing of which I had none to spare, I-Chang had to
+be given up. In September and October, I believe the _Rodney_ might
+be brought up as far as the first rapids. Swinhoe, the two surveying
+officers, Dawson and Palmer, and the two representatives of the Chamber
+of Commerce at Shanghai, had to be transferred to the _Faust_ and
+_Opossum_, and in exchange we received our navigating Lieutenant,
+Taylor. I doubt the Yang-tse being navigable except to a peculiar
+class of steamer, adapted to the purpose of ascending the rapids above
+I-Chang; but that need not prevent enterprising merchants establishing
+themselves, as the Russians have done for years, in the capital and
+large cities of the rich province of Se-Chuen; and they might establish
+a consul, but it is a question whether our relations with China are
+at present such that our consul and traders would feel secure without
+the protection of a gunboat. Regret not being able to accompany them
+farther, but having so much interesting work before me, ought not to
+be greedy.
+
+Having seen our friends take their departure in the _Faust_, we
+weighed anchor for our return, and were drifting down broadside on
+to the stream without room to go ahead, our stern close to the bank,
+which being of mud, I recommended backing into. Her head immediately
+paid off down stream, but my advice had been fatal to further rapid
+progress. Although no shock was felt, the rudder’s head was twisted and
+the rudder unmanageable. On examination, it was found we had to drift
+down. I did not like to upset the exploring and surveying expedition
+by sending for the _Opossum_, but determined on sending an officer to
+Hankow for the _Zebra_ to come up to Hankow. Nothing could have been
+more unfortunate than this event, or so completely adapted to upset the
+arrangements I had made during the short time I was likely to remain
+on the station. The hot season approaching, my anxiety to get to the
+northward was great.
+
+My galley, with Mr. Lee, took her departure at about 6 P.M. on a
+journey of 220 miles to Hankow, but with a strong current and the
+prospects of an occasional lift by sailing.
+
+[Sidenote: Apr. 2.]
+
+Our misfortunes had not come to an end. The morning was fine. We got
+under way with the prospects of a good day before us; I had been
+calculating with our American pilot whether we should not be close on
+our galley at Hankow. We were coming to a part of the river where there
+are a succession of islands a-wash, and we ought to have crossed to
+the opposite or right bank of the river. _Salamis_ awkward to handle.
+The only way the rudder would act was the wrong one; the American
+pilot recommended to warp across. The stocks of both bower anchors
+had broken. In trying to cross, the ship grounded on the upper side of
+the first of the above-named islands. Our hope was in the rise of the
+river, while it was possible that the island might rise too! We were
+in a fix. Twelve long days were spent getting the ship afloat and to
+rights. The bank shifting occasionally, moved the position.
+
+On the 14th the house-boat _Fanny_ arrived from Hankow. Risk and
+ourselves went down in her to Hankow, arriving on the 18th. The
+_Salamis_ followed three days later, when the flag was rehoisted.
+
+On the 25th the French man-of-war _Flamon_ arrived, saluted us, and
+also, with three guns, the late Viceroy’s wife and son on their
+departure. Weighed and arrived at Shanghai on the 27th.
+
+[Sidenote: Apr. 30.]
+
+_Salamis_ paid off: recommissioned by Commander Miller.
+
+[Sidenote: May 11.]
+
+Transferred wife and children with Flag-Lieutenant to the care of my
+kind friend Raby in the _Adventure_, and steamed down the Woosung.
+
+[Sidenote: May 15.]
+
+Came to off Chefoo, a pretty port with red cliffs and good beaches.
+Found Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_. Went on in the afternoon and
+arrived off Taku in time to pick up our old pilot Bandi. Crossed the
+bar of the Peiho with the flood-tide, which we carried for 40 miles,
+making with three boilers, for one hour, over 30 miles.
+
+Started again at daylight and got to Tientsin at 9.30, having fouled
+but one junk and only touching the bottom once.
+
+[Sidenote: May. 17.]
+
+Mr. Morgan, the Consul, lost no time in making arrangements for our
+start for Peking. Our party consisted of Charlie Scott, Miller,
+Risk, and Dob Crosbie, my nephew. We had six boats, covered in and
+convenient for sleeping, another for cooking, one for servants. A
+Commander-in-Chief could not travel without a mandarin, who arranged
+everything and saved much trouble and annoyance. Mandarin Chaing Lao
+(the fifth of the brothers Chaing) arrived about 6 P.M., and we then
+spent the next forty-eight hours going up the Peiho, carried by the
+flood through the crowds of junks which nearly block up the river.
+The crew were willing enough as long as time was allowed them for
+“chow-chow” and smoke. We travelled all night.
+
+[Sidenote: May. 19.]
+
+We might have reached Tung-Chow this evening, but as the gates of
+Peking are closed at 6 P.M., we enjoyed a quiet night by stopping short
+of the town.
+
+[Sidenote: Peking, May 20.]
+
+Peking.--We had not arrived many minutes before Sir Rutherford’s
+stud-groom, with two mounted orderlies, arrived, bringing letters from
+His Excellency, stating that horses had been sent on over night. Carts
+for our luggage would leave Peking early in the morning. “Don Juan,”
+the same horse I rode during our delightful excursion into Mongolia
+in 1867, was sent for me. By 9 A.M. we were at the British Legation,
+received with the same welcome and hospitality I had experienced when
+last here. Conolly took care of Risk; the rest of us were distributed
+over the Legation. I was in my old quarters. The baths were luxuries
+after our journey, for the water of the Peiho is too muddy for bathing.
+Lady Alcock and her daughter joined us at the 12 o’clock breakfast: the
+latter a bright, pretty girl, nice to everybody. Those who had not been
+in Peking before were shown the sights within reach by Conolly. I had
+much to discuss with Sir Rutherford. We agreed that although our late
+proceedings had not been approved of by the Foreign Office, what we did
+was for the best, and so far from drawing the country into war, the
+steps taken were the only ones that averted such a misfortune. Went to
+see the Joss that the Sergeant of Minister’s Bodyguard has brought for
+me.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I sent a photograph of it to General Knollys. It came home in the
+_Rodney_ and is now comfortably housed at Sandringham.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The interpretation of the inscription at the foot of the Joss is as
+follows:--
+
+  Respectfully made on a lucky day of the tenth month of the
+  twenty-eighth year of His Majesty K’-ang-Hsi.
+
+In English dates, October or November 1690.
+
+The dinner-party this evening included Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hart. He
+holds a high position in the Imperial Customs, and has control over a
+larger revenue than was ever held by a foreigner in China, or perhaps
+any other country. Hart has the appointing of all the heads for
+collecting the foreign duties, as well as of the Harbour Masters and
+Commanders of Revenue cruisers. He chooses the positions and raising
+of lighthouses as well as the placing of lightships. Two years ago he
+applied to me for opinions respecting the proper positions of these
+lights, which I directed Commander Brooker to furnish. He took great
+pains and wrote several folios of information on the subject.
+
+I was gratified to learn that Hart had, upon my recommendation,
+reserved the appointment of Commander of a revenue boat, with £800
+a year, for my old friend Claude de Crespigny. Dob Crosbie, who
+had kindly undertaken the duties of Master of the Horse to the
+Commander-in-Chief, took an early ride with Conolly to the Horse
+Bazaar to look for a quiet pony or two. He got hold of a fairish Dun,
+which is docile enough, I think, to carry Colin at Yokohama.
+
+[Sidenote: May 23.]
+
+To forenoon church--a modest little building with no appearance of
+extra ceremonies.
+
+[Sidenote: May 24.]
+
+Our traps started by early carts for Tung-Chow. The Joss went off on
+Saturday. Sir Rutherford directed that it should be carefully covered
+with matting for fear any _dévote_ Chinaman should take umbrage at
+a god being removed from the Celestial Empire. The mandarin who
+accompanied us was anxious to know if I should burn incense before it
+when I got home. I have no doubt he thought I was a convert to Buddhism.
+
+The fur merchants had many pretty things, but I selected a small piece
+of the sea-otter skin, sufficient to make a muff, and was told it was
+valued above sable. I had also some commissions with the silk-seller,
+and chose some pieces of maize and other silk, which, as Mr. Pepys
+would have said in his diary, “did me much pleasure.”
+
+After _déjeuner_ we took leave of our friends, and mounted our horses
+to ride quietly back, much tried by hot wind and clouds of dust. Ice,
+however, was plentiful and cheap. Late in the evening our small fleet
+was again under way, increased now by two more boats containing the
+Joss and sundry carved stones. We had likewise to distribute through
+the fleet 8 good-sized cages, containing 16 pheasants from Mongolia for
+my friend Tom de Grey. “Crossoptelon Manchuricum” worth “some” should
+they reach England alive. Drank Her Majesty’s health _en route_ with
+honours.
+
+[Sidenote: Peiho River to Tientsin, May 25.]
+
+This has been a scorching sun with a burning wind, while hot sand
+found its way into the interior of our boats, as well as into our eyes
+and everything we ate or drank. We managed a walk of two or three
+miles, which can always be accomplished without detaining the boats
+by watching on the chart (the Admiralty one is very good) where the
+river takes an unusual sweep round, when you walk across to the nearest
+point. No rain having fallen for three weeks, the ground was hard and
+hot; and the natives anticipated a bad harvest.
+
+Among the odds and ends one sees in the shops in Peking, nothing is
+more curious, as well as absurd, than the children’s toys. Conolly’s
+Chinese servant was put in requisition to make a double collection--one
+for our children and the other for them to send by the _Rodney_ to
+numerous cousins.
+
+[Sidenote: May 26.]
+
+It was near midnight before we got alongside the _Salamis_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XCIX
+
+CHEFOO TO JAPAN
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Salamis_, May 27.]
+
+Before starting for Peking, I informed the Consul at Tientsin of
+my intention to pay, on my return, my respects to Tchung-How, the
+same Governor that was here when I was in the _Dido_, and, with the
+exception of the Viceroy at Canton, the most finished Chinese gentleman
+I had met. In reply to the Consul’s message, Tchung-How hoped we would
+not be late as he had to pray for rain.
+
+Scott attended on my visit to His Excellency, who lived two miles
+away on the opposite side of the river. Tchung-How, in addition to
+being Governor, is superintendent of trade and junior guardian of
+the heir-apparent. Mr. Morgan acted as interpreter. We were received
+with the usual courtesy, the Viceroy holding his hands before him and
+bending forward at each door. In the inner room we had tea, and then,
+in the second, champagne and fruit. Made the visit short, and was glad
+to get away; having exchanged into lighter clothing, visited curio
+shops, in which there was a sad falling off; dealers in furs and skins
+charged double what they did in Peking.
+
+Had still to return the visit of the Russian Consul C. Skottschkoff.
+He has a Cossack look about him; his wife, not being got up to receive
+visitors, disappeared by an opposite door, but I believe she is pretty
+and speaks English. Our Consul and his wife joined us at dinner; she
+made herself very agreeable.
+
+[Sidenote: May 28.]
+
+Made an early start with the hopes of crossing the bar in the
+afternoon, but the pilot, I believe from the want of his accustomed
+cocktail, failed in nerve and muddled us twice; by dark we came to, a
+little more than halfway down the Peiho.
+
+[Sidenote: Peiho-Taku Forts, May 29.]
+
+Started early, but not in time to save the tide over the bar; a bore,
+am anxious to get north. We brought up close to the celebrated Taku
+Forts, that the squadron under Sir James Hope had such good reason
+to remember. Some of our officers landed, and no objection was made
+to their inspecting forts. They report them as in good repair, guns
+mounted and ammunition ready, but nothing heavier than 32-pounders,
+evidently taken from our gunboats, having the “V.R.” on them; but these
+will be retaken before long!
+
+The European in charge of signal station stated that the garrisons,
+formerly thirty or forty in each fort, had within the last month been
+increased to 800 soldiers in one and 600 in the other. The coolies
+state that all foreigners are shortly to be driven out of China. I
+believe they are conceited enough to attempt it. Secret copies of some
+of Commissioner Li’s correspondence had reached our Embassy at Peking.
+If anything is to take place, I hope it may come off in my time; I am
+confident that a war would eventually benefit both sides.
+
+[Sidenote: May 30.]
+
+Read prayers to ship’s company. At 3 P.M. came to at Chefoo. The mail
+had arrived from England. Discussions had taken place in Parliament in
+which the Duke of Somerset and Lord Clarendon proved how mistaken they
+were regarding the state of China. An _apology_ was to be sent to the
+Chinese Government for our “mistake” in Formosa!
+
+[Sidenote: Chefoo, May 31.]
+
+Inspected Charles Scott’s _Icarus_; as I expected, found her in perfect
+order.
+
+The coaling of the _Salamis_ painfully slow; lazy coolies passing the
+coal on board in small baskets holding less than a shovelful each.
+Operation completed by 3 P.M. Having laid in a stock of sheep and
+poultry, started for Japan.
+
+Markham informed me that a Russian corvette had been at Chefoo with a
+live bear and a lion’s skin for me from friend Etholin of Vladivostock.
+They went on to Shanghai, where I hope they will be put into the _Juno_.
+
+[Sidenote: June 4.]
+
+Got through the Simonoseki Straits before dark. Once more the inland
+sea; at no time of the year can it look more beautiful; crops ripening
+and the green grass and trees in all the freshness of spring. At 4.30
+entered the far-famed whirlpool passage, but it was time of neap tides
+and the flood was within an hour of its making, which it does two hours
+after high water. It required close watching and quick helm to prevent
+being slewed broadside on by the “Chow-Chow” water. It is safest to
+pass through with the current.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama, June 6.]
+
+By daylight we were standing into the Bay of Yedo; _Rodney_, _Ocean_,
+_Adventure_, and _Cormorant_ made their numbers. We passed under the
+stern of the old _Rodney_, where the band and officers were on the poop
+to welcome the old Chief. Steamed ahead of the stately _Ocean_ and
+came to before 8 A.M. Found the wife and children well and happy at
+the Legation House. Sir Harry Parkes absent in Yedo, but everything
+done to make us feel at home. Denison had come out by mail, at his own
+expense, to take command of _Cormorant_, as her paying-off was to be
+here. Flag hoisted on board _Rodney_.
+
+[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_, June 7.]
+
+The French commodore and captains, as well as Dutch and American senior
+officers, visited _Rodney_. All the heads of departments had already
+visited, and been attentive to the wife on her arrival.
+
+[Sidenote: June 8.]
+
+Accompanied by Heneage, returned calls of the French, American, and
+Netherlands commanders; the two former giving me a personal salute.
+The small arms men and marines from _Rodney_ and _Ocean_, 4047 tons,
+Captain Stanhope, landed and went through their evolutions, to the
+admiration of Colonel Norman of the 9th Regiment (The Norfolk). The
+field-pieces were beautifully worked. I was mounted on Sir Harry
+Parkes’s charger, which, however, refused to stand fire. I have had the
+house built snug and substantial, easy to be got rid of! My ponies Tiu
+and Ko in the Legation stable, where the poor old grey given me by Mrs.
+Fitzroy is dying.
+
+[Sidenote: June 10.]
+
+Pouring with rain and a gale blowing. We dined with the Marshalls,
+plodding there in chairs, ankle deep in mud. The Normans, Mrs. Alt,
+Adams, Stanhope, and Helen were of the party; the dinner, as usual,
+excellent, wines to match. Drank the health of Georgie West, her
+birthday.
+
+[Sidenote: June 11.]
+
+Inspected _Ocean_. It is difficult to imagine a cleaner or more perfect
+man-of-war. Hard lines, the depriving me of my flagship! Dined with the
+Normans in their barrack hut; every exertion made by kind hostess to
+make us enjoy our visit, in which she perfectly succeeded. At the door
+on way home met a youngster with our mail from England.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama.]
+
+In noting events it is odd I should have omitted the severest shock
+of earthquake that I had experienced. It occurred at 4 P.M. on Monday.
+I was sitting at the Legation talking with Risk. The house shook
+violently for a quarter of a minute, and after the lapse of a few
+seconds went on again, with sounds of cracking and groaning. Keppel
+Garnier was with May at the Marshalls: the bells rang, the house
+cracked, and the broken mortar was heard tumbling inside the walls.
+Mrs. Marshall seized her baby, and Garnier, May; both rushed out on to
+the lawn; raining hard. At the Club, billiard balls rolled about, and
+the Japs deserted the house.
+
+The mail did not bring much important news. It was in contemplation
+at the Admiralty to submit the names of certain Admirals for the
+distinction of Grand Cross of the Bath on Her Majesty’s birthday.
+Friend Beauchamp Seymour informs me that, owing to the Commodore not
+waiting for the Viceroy’s contingent for the attack on the villages at
+Swatow, my name is not to be sent in!
+
+Inspected _Cormorant_, a fit pendant to the _Ocean_. Poor Brand has
+earned his promotion, if the order of his ship is any criterion.
+
+[Sidenote: June 14.]
+
+Early telegraph this morning from _Rodney_: “Many happy returns of the
+day to Commander-in-Chief” from captain and officers. Signalled back
+“Many and grateful thanks.” Parkes arrived in evening, having ridden
+from Yedo. An 8.30 dinner: glad to see my friend so well. Most of the
+naval officers and other friends called in the course of the day to
+congratulate me on my natal day.
+
+[Sidenote: June 16.]
+
+Having returned all garrison calls, visited the Foreign Ministers
+yesterday. The American Minister, a General, had read the name of
+his successor--the only intimation that he was to be relieved. How
+pleasantly governments do things! Parkes is the only minister who has
+courage enough to take up his residence among these turbulent people!
+Yesterday, having arranged with Parkes to go to Yedo with him, found a
+horse and escort waiting for me at Kanagava. Without hurrying, caught
+up Sir Harry at a half-way tea-house. We were ferried over the River
+Rokugo. The supports for a bridge were standing, one having been built
+last year for the Mikado, who was on his way from Osaka to Yedo, and
+afterwards pulled down, so that no one else could take advantage of it.
+
+We were met at the tea-house by Mr. Sibbald, interpreter, and young
+Hodges, studying to become one; and attended by a mounted escort from
+Yedo, as unlike cavalry soldiers as a feminine dress and diminutive
+appearance could make them. The present Legation, although not large,
+is most pleasantly situated on high ground, with a flag-staff on which
+the flag of _Perfide Albion_ may be seen from every part of Yedo!
+
+[Sidenote: Yedo, June 18.]
+
+We found Bertram Mitford delightfully situated on another eminence
+within a few minutes’ walk, while Adams had taken possession of the
+snug little house formerly occupied by Mitford. A small cemetery
+separating the two--most convenient for the joint mess.
+
+Sibbald came in during the evening; he had accompanied the Tycoon’s
+younger brother in his travels and visited with him most of the Courts
+of Europe. He described the young Jap as intelligent and shrewd in
+his remarks, although he got occasionally bored by over-sightseeing.
+In answer to one of his questions why our ladies exposed so much of
+their persons in evening dress, he was told, “Out of compliment to
+His Highness”; on which he supposed if his Emperor had been there they
+would have come naked! Nor could he understand high personages dancing:
+a performance in his country he paid people for doing.
+
+Nothing can be cleaner, prettier, or nicer than these Jap houses for
+summer residences. The house at Yokohama, engrossing all the best
+furniture, the accommodation here assumed a most agreeable sort of
+“roughing it.” A party on horseback, and two carriages, in one of which
+Parkes drove my wife, went to see the tombs of the Shogoons (so Mitford
+spells what we pronounce Tycoon, and he is sure to be right) at Zôôji,
+at Shiba, the castle, and other sights in Yedo, which I, fancying I had
+seen before, did not join, preferring the cool of the pretty grounds
+about the Legation.
+
+[Sidenote: June 21.]
+
+Have some two days’ back journal to write up. In the afternoon news
+reached us of the loss of the _Haya Maro_, a fine steamer bound to
+Osaka, which seems to have struck on the same rock as the _Nepaul_
+about two years ago, situated about 200 yards to the eastward of the
+well-known Plymouth rocks. She was going at the rate of 14 knots, her
+bottom was torn out and she went down head foremost in less than five
+minutes in 40 fathoms water. The only excuse for cutting the point so
+close was to shorten the distance a cable’s length, the captain having
+made a bet he would accomplish the voyage to Osaka in thirty hours.
+Among the twenty-one lives lost was an old China friend, Margesson, who
+dined with us only a week ago. Poor fellow! after service as a merchant
+for some twenty-eight years, he was on his way home to enjoy the fruits
+of his labours.
+
+Our dinner party included Hodges, Doctors Sibly and Willes. Willes had
+taken service with the Japanese. Although he frequently attended those
+connected with the Court, he had never been allowed near the Mikado.
+In fact, even now, if necessary to feel the Imperial pulse, a piece of
+tape is fastened to the wrist and the end is passed through a hole in
+the wall into the adjoining room when the doctor approaches, beating
+the mats with his head!
+
+The next day (20th) the launch started, soon after high water, with the
+same party she had brought up, while we waited until Sir Harry Parkes
+was ready. I was mounted on the Minister’s pet grey Arab charger.
+Mitford kindly accompanied me part of the way, and cautioned me to be
+careful of said charger, he having been down once, and getting shaky on
+his legs. We pulled up by the roadside. There we found a square plot
+fenced round as sacred, the Mikado having condescended to alight on
+that place. In another direction a rustic bridge was stopped up, the
+Imperial foot having passed over it.
+
+[Sidenote: Rokugo, Japan, to Yokohama.]
+
+The carriage with Parkes and my wife reached the ferry at Rokugo just
+as I got to the other side. The river is called Tama Gawa (jewel
+river). We both nearly came to grief; in spite of all Mitford’s caution
+and my care, the beautiful grey fell, as if shot, in the streets
+of Yokohama, cutting both knees. Those only who have ridden their
+friends’ favourite horse, with a similar catastrophe, can understand
+my feelings. When I broke the fact to Sir Harry, instead of wishing
+that it had been my neck instead of his horse’s knees, he merely “hoped
+I had escaped unhurt.” In the carriage they had had a narrow escape:
+one of the ponies, a bumptious beast, that never neared another animal
+without apparently wishing to eat it, stopped on meeting a carriage
+that had pulled up on the narrow raised causeway, on both sides of
+which there is a drop of some 12 feet into the sea, and that made still
+more unpleasant by short piles thickly driven in. The beast screamed
+and backed in spite of the whip, which was dropped into him smartly by
+the Minister. The mounted orderlies saw the danger. One seized my wife,
+and the other got hold of the ponies’ heads, only just in time; the
+adventure did not improve my wife’s nerves. They reached the Legation
+just before me, having taken a different road.
+
+Sunday was the anniversary of the Queen’s Accession, and in church we
+had the service appointed for that event, finishing with “God save the
+Queen.” Not at all bad for Yokohama.
+
+The _Dupleix_, with our friend Du Petit Thours, went out of harbour as
+I rode in on Saturday, along the Tikado, and I was much disappointed at
+not seeing any notice taken of him when the _Dupleix_ passed our ships,
+she being homeward bound, while their kindness and hospitality to Harry
+Stephenson and the wrecked crew of the _Rattler_ in September last was
+fresh in our memories.
+
+I learned afterwards that, having the French prisoners on board who had
+led on and then deserted the rebels, Du Petit Thours was afraid that a
+wrong construction might be put on our cheers, and wrote to Stanhope,
+hoping that we should not take any notice of him. We never met so good
+a Frenchman or a better man.
+
+_Opossum_ returned from expedition up Yang-tse. A placard had been
+stuck up in I-Chang offering rewards for her capture, as well as others
+for the heads of the captain or crew!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER C
+
+THE CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Yokohama, June 23.]
+
+Some man remarked that having lost half an hour on coming into the
+world, he was never afterwards able to make up the lost time. My
+journal has got three days behind, and I feel that I shall not be able
+to make it up. This is an attempt. My temper, too, ruffled by a vet
+who, I believe, poisoned Mrs. Fitzroy’s grey pony.
+
+[Sidenote: June 24.]
+
+The American Admiral arrived on the 21st and a Prussian corvette on
+the 22nd, when much saluting of three admirals with their returns took
+place. Hakodati invested, but still holding out. Yesterday commenced
+housekeeping on our own account, obtaining our hospitable host’s
+permission. Children taking kindly to a day governess after desperate
+opposition by Colin. Blowing too hard to return calls afloat. Called on
+the Netherlands Consul, who was entertaining a party of twenty Dutchmen
+who claimed me as a countryman, and with pleasure we liquored up in
+sweet champagne. Colin enjoying the substantials.
+
+[Sidenote: June 27.]
+
+On starting for church this morning, the card of Don José de Grandaria,
+ex-Captain-General of the Philippines, was put into my hand. He
+had arrived by the American mail _en route_ for Europe, _viâ_ San
+Francisco. Good fellow that he is, he came to luncheon, and if
+possible will dine; glad of an opportunity of returning a trifle of
+his hospitality. News from Hakodadi of the capture of the town by the
+Imperialist troops and total destruction by explosives of two of Kerair
+ships. They, however, still hold the forts.
+
+[Sidenote: June 29.]
+
+Mounted Colin on the pony “Ko” and gave him his first lesson in riding.
+
+[Sidenote: June 30.]
+
+Had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch ready yesterday evening to convey my
+good friend, the Governor of Manila, on board the mail steamer. We
+first became acquainted in 1837 when he was Governor of Fernando Po.
+
+[Sidenote: July 4.]
+
+The shock of an earthquake was felt about 1 A.M. Clearing up in
+the afternoon, Colin mounted his pony before I had got hold of the
+tow-rope. Colin touched him with the whip to close with me. The pony,
+being fresh, gave a jump and a kick, placing the little man on what he
+called his “bob” on the road, and scampered up His Excellency’s soft
+turf.
+
+Soon after midnight a sensation was caused by the report of firearms.
+Guards were turned out. Sir Harry Parkes saddled, ordered his escort,
+and scouts were sent into the town to ascertain the cause. It proved to
+be a few Americans sitting up late to usher in the anniversary of their
+nation’s Independence.
+
+[Sidenote: July 5.]
+
+The French mail brought news of my promotion. The flag was shifted to
+the main and saluted, all foreign men-of-war following suit. Parkes off
+for Yedo. He is indeed a zealous, active Minister. The anniversary of
+American Independence is to be kept to-day. Our ships are dressed with
+flags; the stars and stripes will be saluted at noon by a royal salute.
+Hear that our friend Mrs. Alt, who took such care of Algie Heneage and
+myself at Nagasaki when we were ill, has had a bad fall from her pony,
+which fell with her over the edge of a bank, a drop of some fifteen
+feet, kicking her twice in the chest. Called to inquire, and found Mrs.
+Alt in the garden. Her ribs were dented, not broken.
+
+[Illustration: _Mrs. Alt._]
+
+[Sidenote: July 7.]
+
+The French mail brought Challier, the successor to Commodore Jones.
+Challier commanded the _Newton_ when I had _St. Jean d’Acre_ in the
+Tagus. Am left the senior and oldest of all the Naval Commanders on the
+station. Stanhope, Crossman, and self inspected yesterday afresh the
+site of the Naval Hospital, the erection of which has now been four
+years in contemplation by the Admiralty.
+
+The advantages and saving to the country in money, as well as in
+transport of invalids, who could be easily cured in this fine climate,
+has been admitted from the beginning. Then again, the idea that the
+authorities at home should know better the style of building required
+than those on the spot has been the cause of the interchange of plans
+and surveys. Plans sent out not suitable to the climate, and again each
+successive Government not having the courage to insert the cost in the
+naval estimates, the expense now, if the hospital is ever built, will
+be more than double what it would have been had it been erected when
+its advantages and economy were first acknowledged.
+
+[Sidenote: July 8.]
+
+To luncheon yesterday on board _Ocean_: everything perfect, in
+Stanhope’s usual style. Afterwards to _Rodney_, taking children. She
+being ordered home, had all sorts of live animals. Among them were two
+bears, who had the run of the ship. In the summer months hammocks were
+little used; the bears lay where they liked, the men using them as
+pillows. Each bear would accommodate ten or a dozen at a time. By day
+they were all over the place, generally aloft, in the tops or along the
+yards, from which they could see every arrival on board.
+
+My daughter was a small four-year-old. While on the poop she found
+herself rolling along the deck in the embrace of a bear she had not
+before seen. Of course she was immediately released. She knew not what
+fear was. The next moment she had seized one of the mizzentopmast
+broomsticks, and the bear made the best of his way aloft. He was a
+young Siberian given me by Etholin, brought here by the _Juno_ from
+Hong Kong; by which ship friend Hugh Low sent us four Sulu pearls.
+
+[Sidenote: July 10.]
+
+My servant, Ah Ho’s right eye black and swollen, painted so, not for
+the first time, by my man Fuller--who goes!
+
+A boat-race came off on Saturday between the United States _Iroquois_
+and _Ocean_. _Iroquois_ held the challenge cock they had won from our
+_Zebra_, and published some tall talk in Yokohama papers. The American
+boat was a double-banked whaler, the _Ocean’s_ a twelve-oared cutter.
+A fresh breeze. Betting in favour of the American boat, on which some
+$1500 had been invested. The American officers had been on board
+_Ocean_ with their bag the evening before, and remained until every
+dollar they brought was covered.
+
+Never was such an example: the course five miles. The first three
+strokes sent the _Ocean_ a length ahead, which advantage they kept,
+winning by five minutes. Law, the Commander of _Iroquois_, guessed he
+would have to resign the “chicken” he had taken such care of.
+
+[Sidenote: July 13.]
+
+Wrote Cooper Key asking him to appoint Gye Gunnery-Lieutenant of
+_Ocean_ on recommission.
+
+[Sidenote: July 14.]
+
+Was introduced to the new bear, a cub resembling the older one. Band
+played at Jardine’s. Colin’s pony evinced his dislike to Europeans by
+kicking one of the escort, then Webb, and also trying it with me. Got
+on his back and quieted him, on the strength of which he afterwards
+kicked one of Herbert Smith’s servants, and near home lifted up his
+heels without unseating the small Colin. Parkes returned from Yedo; had
+Kassim and the curry cook to let him know what a good curry was.
+
+[Sidenote: July 20.]
+
+On Sunday we attended divine service on board _Rodney_ and lunched with
+Algie Heneage. Yesterday was an eventful one in my small way. Inspected
+the old _Rodney_ for last time. Had a farewell luncheon in the
+ward-room. Was absent in _Salamis_ eighteen months out of two years.
+Hoped to have had the last year on board _Rodney_ when this unfair
+order comes to send her home.
+
+[Sidenote: July 21.]
+
+Band playing at Jardine’s. M‘Hardy, Nepean, and Heneage to dine. While
+enjoying cigars the report of a gun from seaward, followed by a couple
+of rockets, announced arrival of English mail. Promotion of mates in
+_Rodney_. Bath in all its degrees conferred. I passed over for the
+G.C.B. Death of my old Chief in Crimea, Charles Freemantle, has placed
+me at the head of the Vice.
+
+[Sidenote: July 25.]
+
+Got out in the evening yesterday for a ride with Colin. Had Algie
+Heneage to dinner, Bamber, Woodruffe, Ogle, and Simley. As _Cormorant_
+was going to the northward, made her signal to weigh and take us in
+tow. As we got away, _Ocean_ manned rigging and yards to the very
+trucks. They used aloft, with pretty effect, small boat flags, and gave
+three hearty cheers to the parting ship, such as Britishers only give.
+The American Admiral and Italian ships likewise gave parting cheers.
+After luncheon with Algie Heneage, some four miles from the anchorage
+we bade the old _Rodney_ farewell.
+
+It is seldom that relationship has the same hold on a sailor’s
+affections as that of a shipmate. They manned the rigging and repeated
+hearty parting cheers. After we had quitted her, the flag was
+transferred to _Ocean_ and saluted by _Rodney_. French mail in. Article
+in _Saturday Review_, May 29, on “English Policy” in China refers to
+the actions of Gurdon and Domville at Swatow and Formosa last year.
+Local papers defend my policy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER CI
+
+THE CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Ocean_, July 31.]
+
+Our band played on the Bund, no better in the Far East! Japs making
+great preparations to receive the Duke of Edinburgh.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama, Aug. 2.]
+
+Parkes and M‘Lay come to dine. Much talk on China affairs; few people
+better able to form an opinion than our two guests. All agreed how
+lamentably misinformed our Government is.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]
+
+Fine weather at last. Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Parkes, and
+Newton dined with us. In the night we were disturbed by a row in the
+domestic department. A big negro caulker had been visiting in the
+village, and returned at 3 A.M., having been rolled in the mud a
+foot deep. He made for the kitchen, where his appearance terrified
+the Chinese cook, who gave the alarm of thieves. On the animal being
+removed to his ship, he admitted to its having been caused by keeping
+low company, as if there could be anything lower than himself. He had
+affected while on board a religious turn of mind.
+
+_Sylvia_ arrived yesterday, and Brooker, who called this morning,
+proposed a party on board his ship to visit “Die Boots.”
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]
+
+Starting at an early hour to go on board _Sylvia_, was unable to finish
+remarks for preceding day. On 4th, while at dinner, a gun announced
+the arrival of English mail. Having seen telegrams in both American
+and French up to 3rd July, my mind was set at rest about chance of
+promotion and relief, the mail bringing news up to June 18, which
+pronounced “Admirals Firm.” The last thing that caught my eye was a
+small envelope with “_Telegraph_” in the corner, which sure enough
+contained all that I had been dreading for a year. It was from the
+Admiralty, July 3, and commenced with, “You are promoted”: it ordered
+me to Singapore to meet my relief, who would be there on September 3.
+
+In fact, I was to go tearing down against the monsoon in _Salamis_,
+with her worn-out boilers, when my relief could come up in half the
+time, before the wind; and then I was to have the pleasure of crossing
+the Red Sea in the month of September.
+
+As there are two routes, and no detriment to the Service thereby,
+I determined on waiting at Yokohama. The time has come at last, my
+reign nearly over, and I have no cause to complain; if it were not for
+the unjust withholding the G.C.B., I should proceed on my way home
+rejoicing.
+
+We got under way yesterday in the _Sylvia_ at 10 A.M. Our party
+consisted of Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Raby, Loreiro, Miller,
+and ourselves; everything successful but the weather, which continued
+rainy and misty. We anchored off the bay at 11, and having made an
+excellent breakfast, proceeded in steam launch. Another boat brought
+the ladies’ chairs, coolies, and those who liked to come.
+
+The channel, except at high water, when you can make a straight course,
+is difficult. However, with the assistance of a native pilot, we got
+into the tea-house at Kanasawa without accident, beyond occasionally
+touching the bottom. In less than a quarter of an hour, pedestrians,
+horsemen (our ponies had been sent on early from Yokohama), and chairs
+were fairly under way.
+
+The scenery beautiful, and in spite of the weather, and slow progress
+of chairs over slippery ground, everybody was cheery, Madame Bertrand
+walking the whole seven miles. “Die Boots” was there in all his
+grandeur, and a striking sight it is. Since I saw it two years ago, the
+inside has been desecrated with the usual Anglo-Saxon names; in fact,
+there is a native who makes a small fortune by attending with a ladder,
+brush, and red paint for all those who wish to immortalize their
+lady-love’s or their own interesting names!
+
+Our coolies had to “chow-chow,” and the afternoon was far advanced
+before we were on our return. The slippery paths made progress so slow
+that it was dark by the time we reached our boats; the tide, although
+falling, was still high, and with the help of our natives and the ship
+in the offing well lighted, we got safely on board, but too late to be
+back in time to entertain Sir Harry, who had promised to dine with us.
+We partook of Brooker’s hospitable tea, at which we made an excellent
+_dinner_. The _Sylvia_ under way anchored at 10.30. By 11.30 we were at
+home; by 12.30 at midnight we were well shaken by an earthquake!
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]
+
+_Pearl_, 21, corvette, Captain John F. Ross, arrived under sail from
+Hakodadi. Ross, Boxer, and Miller dined with us. Inspected _Sylvia_, in
+very nice order. Flag hoisted at 8 A.M.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]
+
+Rougemont, “First” of _Ocean_, came in evening full of distress at a
+boat full of officers having been missing for two days, and without
+grub. Active and energetic steps immediately taken by Parkes: the
+Consular Establishment and whole escort put in motion, the Japanese
+Government despatching couriers by sea and land. It appeared afterwards
+that Rougemont had been living with Beato, and forgot that the missing
+might have returned in his absence from the ship, which, in fact, they
+had, and the whole of them had well fed and turned in an hour before
+this smart “First” gave this unnecessary alarm. Parkes indignant, and
+small blame to him.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]
+
+Sabbath, and piping hot! We were enlivened by a royal salute in honour
+of the birthday of the Emperor Napoleon III., fired by the French ships
+in harbour.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 17.]
+
+Hot weather appears to have set in. The greatest nuisance one has to
+contend with by day, as well as by night, are the mosquitoes.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]
+
+Our band played at Jardine’s on the afternoon of 17th, where I went to
+meet our letters on their landing from _Salamis_. Ascertained that the
+death of Admiral Bowles was the cause of my promotion. A telegram from
+Admiralty extending the time that I should meet my relief at Singapore
+to the 19th September. If they had taken that date into consideration
+at first, I might have been down there in time, but now the 19th will
+be as inconvenient as the 3rd September was a fortnight ago. The
+telegram also contained directions to assemble as large a naval force
+as practicable to be placed under Stanhope, but its destination could
+not be made out. No public news. Admiralty permission given to dispense
+with _razors!_ for which I am sorry.
+
+The death of Lieutenant Kent of the _Avon_ enabled me to promote
+Hammet (from _Rodney_), whose uncle was killed in the trenches before
+Sevastopol. Yesterday at 10 A.M. inspected _Adventure_; clean and
+wholesome.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]
+
+Threatening weather: got wet through in our ride. Wilkinsons and Adams
+dined with us yesterday. Slight earthquake in afternoon. This morning a
+typhoon.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, Aug. 22.]
+
+The typhoon was sharp and short, but did considerable damage.
+Marshall’s house nearly unroofed. Lindo’s fanciful cottage blown down.
+Verandahs round soldiers’ huts blown up. American steamer, adrift,
+stove in _Salamis’s_ bows, carried away _Sylvia’s_ bowsprit, and did
+much more damage of less interest to me. Band played on the bluff.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]
+
+Brooding over my wrongs and the want of consideration on the part of my
+friends the Admiralty in ordering me to Singapore against the monsoon,
+to give up the command to a successor and my junior, when he might so
+much more easily come up to me at a saving of £1700 worth of fuel!
+Another hot day.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]
+
+Mail off this morning; a lull now till the arrival of the _Galatea_,
+overdue. Phelps dined with us yesterday: he the manager of the Pacific
+Mail Company; she “raised” and in heart a Southerner; he ditto, but
+both loyal. The Scotts of 10th Regiment also dined: she the daughter of
+the once charming Caroline Stoll, who married, first Thompson, father
+of Mrs. Scott, secondly Bob Tryon: she died soon after.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]
+
+Made an attempt yesterday in Curio Street: disappointed in the trip
+I had promised myself with the Duke of Edinburgh to Peking; have
+now the difficulty of executing two ladies’ commissions for curios
+in Japan, where they are now not only scarce, but enormously dear.
+Our dinner-party included Dr. Hofferman, Staff-Inspector-General of
+Military Hospitals, Maxwell, Bosman, and Leman.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]
+
+Sorely tempted yesterday to buy two nietschkies, but prices are 500 per
+cent above what they used to be. Got a ride with my boy, who begins to
+move faster than the Betto who leads the pony can stand. French mail
+arrived this morning, bringing French Admiral.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]
+
+Into Curio Street again! Could not resist two of the best nietschkies I
+have seen, but at the highest price. In the evening we got the contents
+of French mail. An Admiral Seymour dead. Hope it is not my friend
+Henry, although news by last mail announced his being ill. _Penelope_
+to be new flagship. Hewitt to be Captain. This morning returned new
+French Admiral’s visit; also looked up my old friend the American
+Admiral Rowan, in whose cabin I saw my photograph framed.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]
+
+Intended to have recorded passing events after church yesterday, but on
+coming out, the _Galatea_ was reported coming in (29).
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]
+
+Our Saturday dinner-party included Major and Mr. Lucas, Gambier
+(_Sylvia_), and Stanhope. I was restless during the night, which, added
+to occasional strange noises, sent me cruising about the house with my
+revolver. Having seen the orderly on the alert, I placed the revolver
+on the dressing-table, which stood between the entrance to the bathroom
+and the side of the bed where I slept, close at hand, and again turned
+in. On awakening, found some expert thief had entered by the bathroom
+window, left open for air, and had not only abstracted three pairs of
+my wife’s boots, but, by way of adding insult to injury, the rascal
+appropriated my revolver and the clothes of my Flag-Lieutenant.
+
+Several Japs had been seen about the grounds during the night by the
+orderlies, but in the unfinished state of outbuildings and grounds they
+had many ways of escape. A small ladder used by the builders was found
+placed against the bathroom windows, by which the rogue or rogues had
+entered.
+
+After luncheon yesterday, Parkes accompanied me on board _Ocean_,
+where I went to receive the Captain of the _Galatea_; afterwards went
+unofficially on board _Galatea_ to talk over arrangements for landing,
+etc. H.R.H. looking well, after his wound at Sydney, and courteous,
+as he well knows how to be. We left him to read the contents of three
+mails.
+
+Parkes and Stanhope dined with us, and made all sorts of arrangements,
+which were upset by His Royal Highness this morning. At 11
+A.M. he landed at the bottom of the grounds to let me know his
+plans. Accompanied the Prince to call on Colonel Norman, Acting
+Commander-in-Chief, and found Mrs. Norman.
+
+On arrival of the _Galatea_, I was astonished to find His Royal
+Highness and crew clean-shaved, H.R.H. not having heard of the
+Admiralty permission to grow beards, the order having reached Yokohama
+a few days previous to his arrival--a proof of H.R.H.’s strict idea
+of discipline, although he knew very well that I should not have
+interfered with the internal discipline of his ship.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER CII
+
+CLOSE OF CHINA COMMAND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Yedo, Sept. 1.]
+
+Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo. Invited by H.R.H. the
+Duke of Edinburgh, at whose disposal this delightful residence was
+placed but yesterday. Proceedings have first to be recorded. The day
+commenced with heavy rain, which continued, but the Duke had decided on
+hoisting the royal standard at 8 A.M., landing in state, and holding
+a levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the Legation at 11.
+Having previously gone on board and been saluted by all the men-of-war
+present at 10.30, we left the _Galatea_ in the Prince’s barge. Yards
+manned and another royal salute.
+
+H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from the 10th regiment,
+another of French marines, while the road was lined up to the Legation
+by the 10th and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was cheered
+from the yards of his own ship on leaving, which was repeated by such
+ships as he passed in his way. Had the weather been anything but rainy,
+the whole thing would have had a grand effect. After the levée we had
+luncheon at the Legation, then the Prince, putting on shooting jacket
+and _Rodney_ hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H. having
+visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had a very fair inspection;
+many things were selected and put aside for future bargainings.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]
+
+I was on board _Galatea_ by 9 A.M. At 10 we started in steam launch
+for Kanagawa, where Parkes had sent his carriages and mounted escort.
+In the first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford (latter told
+off expressly for attendance on the Prince); the other brought Elliot
+Yorke, Haig, and Adams.
+
+Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only _contretemps_ being the
+springs of our vehicle breaking down and causing us twice to alight for
+repairs; but the Japanese roads, however good they may have been, are
+not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now existing between Yedo and
+Yokohama. We were preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs,
+while innumerable small guards turned out and presented arms after
+their own demi-French instruction.
+
+At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince, and the party
+appointed by the Japanese Government to attend His Royal Highness. No
+place could have been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely
+furnished in European style, while the walls were covered with
+curiously painted Japanese paper. A guard of twenty-five marines had
+arrived before us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a similar
+number of Japs, who formerly belonged to the Tycoon, and had been well
+drilled by the French. In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent
+bronze vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons, etc.,
+one of the presents from the Mikado. After luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a
+Prince of the Royal blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the
+afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective houses. We strolled
+through the pretty, well-kept grounds, made to look as little formal
+and like nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every kindness
+and consideration, selecting a room next that occupied by himself,
+consulting me as to costume for dinner. And on my suggesting round
+jackets as the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace trousers,
+which appeared to be the mess dress of _Galatea_. Dinner quiet, and
+good coffee, the best I have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long
+after dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to his future
+movements, hoping I would give him concise orders while within the
+limits of the station, so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we
+might arrange the same.
+
+I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness about his narrow
+escape at Sydney; he kindly showed me the wound at the right of the
+spine--a hole into which I could thrust the end of my little finger.
+
+Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent volumes of about
+14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep, containing coloured pictures--in fact, a
+complete history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could purchase.
+In front of the Prince’s window were large China bowls containing
+beautiful broad-tailed specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged
+on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed trees, etc., all of
+which His Royal Highness was to consider his own.
+
+[Sidenote: Palace of the Mikado, Japan, Sept. 3.]
+
+It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we managed to get over to a
+covered-in place within the Palace grounds to see a combat of swords
+and spears. Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords were of
+bamboo. The practice was interesting enough; heavy blows and thrusts
+were exchanged. An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had
+been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and steel masks.
+Armour on the left side, as far down as the waist.
+
+After bowing to the audience, the combatants saluted one another: on
+the same principle, I suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring
+shake hands before punching one another’s heads. When the supposed
+fatal blow was given, the vanquished walked off, while the victor
+uncovered his head and “kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long
+spears were conducted on same principle. The men were selected from the
+Japanese guard.
+
+The Minister said that had he educated the warriors of different
+Daimios they would be sure to fight it out afterwards to the death
+if different chiefs’ followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to
+arrange a revised route for _Galatea_, she being three weeks behind
+time. Having duly considered the whole, and what Kellett might have
+had to say had he not been pitched on his head before leaving England,
+which delayed his arrival, we were of opinion that I should give up the
+San Francisco route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my successor
+at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph to the Board accordingly.
+
+The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon a man of Mitford’s came
+with curios--apparently a bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two
+swords, which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the owner
+had names written, which he pronounced to be certificates of their
+manufacture by an extinct artist. The Prince paid some £80, and to my
+mind there is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford too.
+
+[Sidenote: Yedo.]
+
+We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of the Tycoons, situated in
+the midst of a well-wooded garden or park. The most beautiful temples
+and elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were allowed to inspect
+everything, being in company of His Royal Highness.
+
+On reaching home we found mats before the door and preparations for
+jugglers: wonderfully clever; and here, as in other parts of the world,
+there was music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown.
+To-morrow we are to have a procession and the Prince’s visit to the
+Mikado, which we look forward to as rather a bore.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]
+
+One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams joined the dinner last
+night. After that we had conjurors; the pretty butterfly trick was
+beautifully performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled
+clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this morning my gold watch,
+which I have had for forty years, and which I had given to my dear boy,
+has disappeared--I think while I was taking my bath.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 5.]
+
+I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who, having engaged the
+servants, offered to guarantee their honesty with his life, or rather
+undergo torture on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought
+against any one of them. However, before breakfast was announced, the
+culprit was discovered to be the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only
+was my watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money belonging to
+others were found in his possession. The only difficulty now will be to
+save the unfortunate wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty marines
+having been landed from the _Adventure_, we had a late breakfast, and
+with the Legation mounted escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a
+way, we proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence within
+the moat and castle walls.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]
+
+The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons, and, in
+fact, the only ones admitted into the same room as His Majesty. No
+presentations took place and everything was as formal as need be, but
+exceedingly curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards
+at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of the castle, which are
+very extensive. Mitford acted as interpreter, and the exclusiveness
+surrounding the Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince
+presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid of which a
+miniature of himself was set in diamonds.
+
+After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in the evening.
+Performers all women; acting supposed to be very good, and the greatest
+decorum preserved throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a game of
+cup and ball on a large scale, which took place on a plot of ground
+railed off for the occasion. A number of horsemen, about eight on each
+side, compete in throwing the greatest number of balls through a hole
+in a planking at the end of the ground, which is about two hundred
+yards in length by twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The
+riders are distinguished by their costume, which is very picturesque.
+Each man is armed with a staff of bamboo, about five feet long, at
+the end of which is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up
+the balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the ground on the
+opposite end from the board in which the hole is.
+
+They then ride towards it and throw the ball at the hole and go back
+for another. The balls bound back within the enclosed ground, and are
+again picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They jostle one another,
+knock the balls from each other’s staffs, pick up and throw altogether
+away the balls of their adversaries. A signal from behind points out
+the number and colour of the balls that have passed through the hole.
+
+The next thing was the interior of a great Daimio’s Palace and to
+be entertained in regular Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio
+selected for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose income is
+estimated at £800,000 a year. He was absent, but a Prince of Japan was
+there to receive and do the honours.
+
+A Japanese fish dinner has been often described. We had to sit on
+the mats and eat with chop-sticks, drink cups of hot _saki_ with the
+chief men, into which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered. In
+front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and a selection of plays
+performed during the feast. This was done by the retainers of the
+Daimio, according to ancient custom. The actors were men; the chief
+performers wore masks. The dresses were gorgeous, and looked as if new
+for the occasion. We did not understand the language, but Mitford had
+kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The motion of the actors
+was so exactly like that of a turkey cock with his tail spread out,
+that any one who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar
+circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description.
+
+After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking boxes were brought
+from the theatre and placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection.
+On being opened they proved to be the masks that had been used on this
+occasion, four in number, carved out of wood and painted. There was
+the lovely face of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call
+the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old. After this we
+pulled on our boots, mounted, and rode away, escorted as before, taking
+rather a circuitous route that the Prince might see something more of
+the city. On getting home found that Stanhope had come up to stay with
+Adams.
+
+A covered place has been erected in front of the house for the
+acrobats, so convenient that you see everything from a chair in the
+verandah. Another such place has also sprung up, which looks like an
+equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for wrestling. In
+fact, nothing has been forgotten by these kind and hospitable people
+that can add to the comfort or amusement of our Prince.
+
+I forgot to mention that after our return on Saturday we found the
+falconers waiting in full costume. The hawking, however, was very tame.
+A small species of water-rat was driven out of the ditches, which a
+small hawk clawed before it had gone 5 yards.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]
+
+Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is conducted with much
+order and ceremony. The Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs
+to luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded to see the combat.
+
+One side of the square, which must have been about 80 yards, was
+covered in and fitted with chairs and seats for the Prince and his
+friends. On the raised platform in the centre, which was about 20 feet
+square, and likewise roofed over, was an altar, on which incense was
+offered to propitiate some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side
+then appeared and formed a ring on the platform, and went through
+certain mystic movements, clapping of hands, extending arms, then
+legs, stamping heavily with first one foot, hands resting on one knee,
+then the other.
+
+This over, they retired to a small building erected at the corner near
+the end of the building in which the Prince and his guests sat, and
+from which to the platform there was a pathway railed off. Another
+party then issued from the opposite corner at the other end of the
+Prince’s stand, and went through the same ceremony. After these had
+retired, a herald summoned a man from each side. Certain ceremonies
+were again gone through. A friendly pinch of salt was brought by each
+and mixed with the soil on which they stood; they extended the arms and
+stamped and kow-towed and then squatted and watched each other like two
+game-cocks, until the signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang
+at each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did not observe
+anything peculiar in that manner of wrestling. There must have been as
+many as a hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the champions
+was reserved for the last and was exceedingly fine. The good Prince
+Nwajima and the smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange guests.
+
+After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds were lighted up,
+and from one of the summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed
+some inferior fireworks, but the best these good people could produce.
+In another pavilion was a native band in full costume, probably the
+Mikado’s. The night was calm and fine. On return from the Legation, I
+found in my room a present from His Majesty in the shape of a handsome
+sword.
+
+Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed some of the most
+extraordinary balancing ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his
+back balances on the soles of his feet four small things piled on
+one another. One of them was a glass bowl with fish in it; another,
+a bird-cage with a canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a
+child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected nearly at
+right angles from a bamboo-tree growing out of the upper box--difficult
+to describe, as I never saw the like.
+
+After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets: all good in its
+way, the scenery being so picturesque.
+
+[Sidenote: Yedo to Yokohama, Sept. 7.]
+
+Events, although small, have followed each other so rapidly as to
+leave no time to write. By 10 A.M. on the 8th, Princes of the blood
+royal, Prince Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled at
+the summer palace to accompany the Duke on board the _Galatea_, she
+having come over from Yokohama on the previous evening, where they were
+to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon. The _Ocean_ and _Pearl_
+came over early in the morning. The morning had been rainy, but held
+up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside the islands, and as the
+tide was falling we cast off, and pulled on board the ships which were
+anchored between five and six miles from the shore. As we approached,
+the ships broke their masthead flags, manned yards, and fired royal
+salutes; looking as no other nation’s ships can look--ropes taut and
+yards square. Everything was most successful. The afternoon turned out
+fine, without being too hot. The royal visitors took their departure
+in _Ocean_ steam-launch at about 3.30 P.M., yards manned, and another
+salute. Our Prince’s royal standard was, after giving the steam-launch
+proper time to get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in its
+place; and then the signal made to weigh.
+
+We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored at sunset, when the
+flag was transferred to the _Ocean_. On landing, it was evident, by
+the concourse of people, that the Prince was expected. He, however,
+preferred remaining in his own snug quarters on board, and I took
+advantage of the Legation carriage to get a lift up the hill. In the
+morning I went down to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind
+offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the bungalow off my
+hands, and then into Curio Street, where I invested $800 for H.R.H.
+in bronzes; also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the 10th
+(Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H.
+
+[Sidenote: Yokohama Sept. 12.]
+
+_Sabbath._--Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent our attending
+divine service. A great dinner was given on Friday night at the
+Legation, including the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as
+were in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding ships,
+followed by a ball, our countrywomen appearing to advantage. Prince
+tired; made his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which he
+danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall.
+
+H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning, approving of
+our curry, and then went home to be tatooed. The merchants having
+kindly determined on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out
+yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains invited to meet me.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]
+
+The kind friends who had decided on entertaining me at a parting dinner
+determined no expense or trouble should be spared. The press, too,
+entered cordially into the idea, and each had its leading article
+puffing me up to any extent. There was one painful part in all this to
+me: the speech which it entailed, that I had to prepare; although no
+preparation was necessary, one could think of nothing else. On Monday
+(13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the party who saw the Mikado at
+Yedo, were photographed by Beato. Inspected afterwards the _Salamis_;
+clean and improved.
+
+On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable shrubs in my bungalow
+ground. They had formed part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in
+which the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening the dinner came off.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]
+
+Nothing was left undone by my entertainers; about eighty sat down,
+including the Minister, Chief-Justice Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman,
+and Captains of ships--among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. My
+staff were also among the guests; _Ocean’s_ band in great form. Behind
+the head of the table was a place screened by flower-pots, where the
+wife and a few ladies were stowed.
+
+Got through my speech better than I expected; the whole thing was a
+complete success and ended by my being carried on the shoulders of
+my entertainers round the tables, preceded by the Prince’s Highland
+piper! Yesterday we had plenty to do, packing up and shifting on board
+_Salamis_, intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with wife and
+chicks on board _Salamis_. It was determined to wait no longer for the
+mail, or our time at Peking must be cut short.
+
+On a signal from _Salamis_ at 3 P.M., _Galatea_, _Ocean_, and _Pearl_
+weighed, and formed into line. All the foreign men-of-war manned
+rigging and cheered. The _Galatea_ had just fired a parting salute to
+Sir Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a royal salute,
+returned by _Galatea_. The American Admiral gave me a parting salute,
+which _Ocean_ returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed with
+flags, and a large American steamer, with a greater part of the
+community and _Delaware’s_ band on board, accompanied our little
+squadron, led by _Salamis_. After standing down the bay some miles at
+half-speed, the American steamer _Nautilus_ passed up the line with
+many ladies on board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes
+fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who would so cordially
+co-operate with him. Our friendship was of long standing; his friendly
+grasp at parting was touching! I met him first when he was a boy, and I
+commanded _Dido_ in 1842. In 1858, he wrote--“Oh for a Keppel, just for
+one month.”
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’ monument unveiled in St.
+Paul’s Cathedral.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER CIII
+
+PEKING
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Kobe, Sept. 18.]
+
+Anchored off Kobe (_Salamis_), intending to go to Osaka in _Salamis_ on
+the morrow. Consul Enslie and the Governor of Hiogo visited the Duke
+of Edinburgh on board _Salamis_, _Ocean_ firing the Consul’s salute,
+_Galatea_ the Governor’s. Nothing could be more civil and attentive
+than all concerned were. Messenger sent to Osaka to prepare for the
+royal visitor: the Mikado’s residence placed at H.R.H.’s disposal.
+We landed and walked to the waterfall, where we found a guard and
+refreshment. The Prince much pleased with the scenery, he and Stanhope
+dining with us afterwards.
+
+[Sidenote: Osaka, Sept. 19.]
+
+Although the Sabbath, our time would not allow the deferring the visit
+to Osaka. The Prince and party were early on board, and by seven we
+were under way, with _Galatea’s_ steam-launch in tow. On anchoring off
+the bar we were immediately visited by the officials, placing a state
+and other government boats at the Prince’s disposal; the Governor
+coming off, but the tide falling, we were transferred to the Mikado’s
+magnificent state-boat.
+
+Before entering the river a royal salute was fired from the battery. At
+the settlement the Prince was received with a guard, and every possible
+respect. The houses closed by order on both sides: a mark of respect
+with which the Prince would rather have dispensed. Consul Gower had
+lunch ready, after which the Prince was taken, much against his will,
+sight-seeing; they rode to the castle and elsewhere. After another
+feed, returned to dinner on board _Galatea_.
+
+Just before reaching the anchorage, with position lights up and
+everything proper, we were most wickedly run into by a small iron
+Jap steamer, smashing the secretary’s dispatch-boat and our port
+spare-spar. Herself unhurt, beyond loss of bowsprit and spring of
+fore-masthead.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]
+
+Damage done by Japanese steamer prevented sailing early. Carpenters
+of ships on board to clear away wreck. At 10 A.M. we weighed. Heard
+the last of old _Rodney’s_ band playing, “Cheer, boys, cheer!” as the
+crew mounted the rigging to the very trenches to give their departing
+old Chief three times three hearty cheers. _Ocean_ making signal
+“Farewell,” we led _Galatea_ through the Osaka Straits, intending to
+anchor for the night to the southward of the rock, our leadsmen on the
+paddle-boxes showing depth of water.
+
+However, in rounding to _Galatea_ took the ground. I joined H.R.H. on
+the bridge, not with the idea of interfering, but I wished to see him
+get his own ship off.
+
+His first idea was to send the lighter boats to sound in every
+direction. The shallowest water was that on which the ship had
+grounded. The boom-boats were got into the water: bower anchors
+prepared for laying out. I remarked that the B.B., hanging from the
+cathead, looked heavy. H.R.H., referring to his small watch bill book,
+had noted the exact weight and size of every spar, anchor, and boat on
+board. I asked no more questions.
+
+The B.B. anchor, with hemp cable, was laid out astern, the end passed
+through port side of the captain’s cabin, brought to the capstan and
+hove taut. I was wondering what H.R.H. would do next, when I heard
+the message to the engine room, “Go ahead full speed.” I wondered,
+as I believe others did. In less than five minutes the cable astern
+slackened, capstan bars manned: she was afloat. I inquired of H.R.H.
+what made him first go ahead! He had ascertained that his ship was on
+the hard sandbank. He knew the vast power of the screw propeller would
+dissolve the edge of the sand--the rest followed.
+
+The old sailor of sixty had learned something from the young steamer of
+twenty-five. We enjoyed an excellent dinner on the starboard side of
+His Royal Highness’s cabin. Weighed.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]
+
+We anchored for the night in the bay to eastward and northward of Kosii
+Island.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]
+
+Our run to-day was for the Simonesaki Straits. _Galatea_, not being
+over handy with her port helm, we came to in Witshed Bay, opposite the
+city, to wait for slack water the following morning.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]
+
+Lovely weather; having led _Galatea_ through the remainder of the
+straits, made signal to part company and rendezvous Nagasaki, we
+taking the short cut to the westward, while she took the route to the
+northward of Ai Sima. During the afternoon we passed through that
+beautiful passage, anchoring at sunset in the snug little harbour of
+Kigatsu.
+
+[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Sept. 24.]
+
+Weighed just before daylight and entered the lovely harbour of
+Nagasaki. Here we found _Adventure_, _Galatea_, _Icarus_, _Dwarf_,
+Commander C. Walker, and _Havoc_, merchant ship, dressed with flags
+to do honour to the Prince. I soon made arrangements with Mr. Consul
+Flowers, that as the _Galatea_ was coaling both sides, and guns run
+in, no salute could be fired, and cut out work for the morrow. H.R.H.
+received Governor, then an address from British residents. At 2.30 the
+Prince will lunch with the Consul and will return the Governor’s call,
+after which, I think, he will have had enough! Mr. Medhurst being here,
+expressed the great disappointment there would be caused by His Royal
+Highness passing Shanghai without visiting that model settlement.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]
+
+Royal standard hoisted on board _Galatea_ at 8 A.M. At 9 inspected
+_Dwarf_; another pattern of cleanliness and order, such as, we flatter
+ourselves, is not attained by any other nation or station. Took the
+wife afterwards to visit Alt’s house, where Algie Heneage and I were
+so kindly nursed, where on different occasions we were really ill. We
+also went over the grounds of Glover’s pretty place, where poor George
+Fitzroy died last year.
+
+Leaving the wife with the Medhursts at the Belle Vue Hotel, where
+the children already were--enjoying conjurer’s tricks--went on board
+_Galatea_ to assist the Prince in entertaining the Governor, then the
+Foreign Consuls, after them a deputation from the British community;
+after which the Prince left under a salute, ships present manning yards
+and masthead flags up.
+
+After a sumptuous luncheon with Consul and Mrs. Flowers, embarked, and
+landed higher up to return Governor’s visit, which we did, preceded by
+Jap guard with drums. Returned on board to a quiet dinner.
+
+Having witnessed some of the prettiest illuminations that can be
+imagined, the _Galatea_ twice lighted up with red, white, and blue from
+her yard-arms and row of ports, we proceeded to the _Adventure_, where
+the wife and my “only daughter” had preceded us, leaving Colin to the
+care of Webb.
+
+As soon as the Prince had heard of the above arrangement, he proposed
+dividing his staff and friends intended for the trip to Peking
+between _Adventure_ and ourselves, leaving _Galatea_ to complete
+coal and follow us at her leisure to Chefoo under sail. Elliot Yorke
+and Chevalier, the artist, and Mr. Porter, who had kindly undertaken
+to prepare the way to Peking for the Prince and party, went in the
+_Adventure_.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]
+
+_Sabbath._--By 6 A.M. _Icarus_ had started under sail, _Adventure_
+following, ready to give a tug across. On board _Galatea_ to breakfast.
+Inspection below, and Divine Service, which with fair singing appeared
+to be well conducted. Took a stroll through the porcelain shops, which
+do not hold with the Chinese, although the Japs excel in lacquer ware.
+
+Took an early dinner with the Prince, he having a shore appointment.
+Stanhope and I paid the Flowers a farewell visit. The Mikado had sent a
+few small presents to the Prince, and to me a jar of saki!
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]
+
+It was 2.30 P.M. before I got my passengers, consisting of the Prince,
+Stanhope, Haig, and Lord Charles Beresford on board. Weighed and stood
+out, cheered by _Dwarf_ and several merchant ships.
+
+[Sidenote: Chefoo, Sept. 30.]
+
+Came to, 2 P.M. Found _Icarus_. Elliot Yorke had gone in _Opossum_,
+leaving me and Mons. Chevalier.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]
+
+Miller under way before daylight. Charles Scott joined our party.
+
+[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 2.]
+
+Daylight found us off the bar, Peiho River, with the pilot, Mr. Band,
+coming alongside. Pronounced the bar passable at 10, when we forced her
+through the mud, Mr. Band going ahead full speed. At the usual place we
+came in contact with a tier of junks, but having left most of our boats
+behind, purposely, at Chefoo, we escaped with a broken gunnel, losing a
+small kedge anchor, and bent davits; Mr. Band consoling himself with a
+glass of grog.
+
+The consternation among the boats as the wave caused by our speed
+lifted them on to the banks, and occasionally washed a looker-on off
+his legs, was rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good repair,
+and the pilot reports some heavy American guns being got into position:
+the coolies at work stating that in one year’s time they will be
+prepared to rid themselves of us barbarians!
+
+It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it being within a day
+or two of the races, the promised horses of Mr. Porter were not
+forthcoming, but the boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready,
+and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we should start that
+evening after dinner.
+
+A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy of the _Overland
+Express_, by which it appears that my successor and his staff had left
+England on August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could not help being
+glad at Kellett’s recovery.
+
+The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably fitted for
+sleeping; then we have a messing boat, a cooking boat, and one for the
+servants. Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including Chow-Wang
+the mandarin, who has always accompanied me. We are eleven boats; each
+bearing a small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape.
+
+[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 3.]
+
+I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of, the only consolation
+being that the tracking coolies might have been employed in a less
+congenial way. They have no weekly rest-day.
+
+Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything is pronounced to
+be an impostor, and Mandarin Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However,
+Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken do their best; the
+great difficulty being to keep the boats together, that with the
+provisions being always out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and
+onions to be purchased at the villages. The water is too muddy even to
+wash in.
+
+A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much dust, books and papers
+curling up; preferable to wet and damp though!
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]
+
+Still moving up the river; but our progress has been slow owing to the
+difficulty of keeping so large a number of boats together. However,
+all seem jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our good-natured
+Prince, whom every one delights in.
+
+Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town, we found that good fellow
+Conolly, who had come to meet us from the Legation, bringing me a
+letter from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty welcome.
+
+Nothing could have been more absurd than the plan laid down for so
+large a party by our self-appointed adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial
+Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and splendid weather of
+September is all well enough for one or two, but he undertook to mount
+our nine selves, four European servants, and convey luggage, to do
+which he proceeded from Nagasaki on board the _Adventure_ in advance.
+
+On our arrival at Tientsin found no horses, he having calculated on
+the kindness of a good-natured European community to mount us. Nor
+could the Legation provide horses sufficient for our party more than
+half-way. Here we are at the close of the third day without a prospect
+of doing more than get to Tung-Chow with every preparation of boats
+made beforehand. The Prince cooked for us a wonderful omelette, 200
+eggs and other things in it, for breakfast.
+
+[Illustration: _The Prince who made the Omelette._]
+
+[Sidenote: Peking. Oct. 6].
+
+Soon after daylight our flotilla had all arrived before 8 A.M. Sir
+Rutherford’s groom “William” put in an appearance with the stud, among
+which I recognised my old friend “Don Juan.” There were mounts for all,
+besides carts for luggage, etc. A pleasant two hours’ ride brought us
+to the Legation, where the Prince received a sincere and respectful but
+hearty welcome. Lady Alcock quite recovered, and Miss Lowder looking
+as charming as ever. We breakfasted soon after 12, while outside were
+collected the usual bazaar of curios, furs, etc., much to the amusement
+of our party, who, including H.R.H., were like children at a fair. Our
+party was so large that the Attachés took a part to dine with them. The
+chaplain, Mr. Burden, and his wife dined with the big ones.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]
+
+The bazaar reopened before breakfast, H.R.H. investing considerably.
+The Russian Minister and the French and Prussian Chargés d’Affaires
+came to meet the Prince at the convivial morning meal; better than a
+formal presentation, His Royal Highness being entirely _incog._
+
+In the afternoon Conolly, H.R.H., and I rode into Curio Street, where
+I was induced to join in a lot together, my choice being a beautiful
+Chinese jar, the likes of which I have not before seen. Other things
+too were bid for which may yet find their way here.
+
+[Sidenote: Legation, Peking, Oct. 8.]
+
+Quarters here very comfortable; a nice little early breakfast of good
+bread and butter, tea, and eggs brought to your room. As H.R.H. amuses
+himself until the small hours at bowls, I thought I might dawdle too,
+but about 9 I got an invitation to accompany him to Curio Street. Had
+a chat with Sir Rutherford this morning on China affairs, and found
+that he lamented the present policy of our rulers at home, and had
+clearly pointed out the dangers, if persisted in, of our drifting into
+another war. He showed me the copy of a letter Lord Clarendon had found
+it necessary to address to Mr. Burlingham, late American Minister,
+pointing out how different is the statement of the Chinese Ambassador
+(that the Chinese Government were for advancement) from the real facts,
+by which it appears that nothing is farther from their intentions,
+and that therefore Lord Clarendon should consider his present policy
+an experimental one only. By which it seems to me their eyes are
+reluctantly being opened after the dust thrown in them by the Minister,
+Burlingham.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 9.]
+
+H.R.H. and party have gone sight-seeing and to a luncheon in the Palace
+grounds provided by Sir Rutherford Alcock. We dine each day fourteen,
+the younger ones taking turns to dine at the Secretaries’ mess. We
+move from table after the first glass of wine, followed by coffee and
+cigars, the Prince going to his favourite bowls, and we old ones, as
+well as a few younger, attracted by the fair Miss Lowder to sixpenny
+pool.
+
+[Sidenote: Peking, Oct. 10.]
+
+_Sabbath._--After attending church, different parties had different
+ways of amusing themselves. H.R.H., to whom it was a novelty, partook
+of a regular Chinese feast--bird’s-nest soup, eggs that had been kept
+a hundred years or longer, shark’s fins, etc. Most of us went into the
+attractive shops of Curio Street.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 11.]
+
+Obliged to turn out betimes to enable servants to pack and start the
+many carts that ought to reach Usung before us. Until the last moment
+the vendors of curios flocked in and displayed their tempting articles.
+
+At 2.30, after an excellent luncheon, we were once more on the
+Legation horses, and bade adieu to our kind and hospitable host and
+hostess, with their pretty daughter, on whose horse, “Snowball,” the
+light Admiral was mounted, H.R.H. riding my old friend “Don Juan,”
+Conolly and Baker accompanying us. It was sunset before we were all
+embarked with our goods and chattels, and an hour later before we were
+clear of the numerous trading junks that jammed the creek, which gave
+time for Conolly and Baker to dine with us. Conolly had, of course,
+delighted everybody, while nothing could have been more obliging than
+both as interpreters.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]
+
+H.R.H. cooked his dish of eggs, after which we resumed whist. A
+fortunate turn in my luck; got up winner of the expedition of 140
+points, some of it going towards curios. Having dined comfortably, 8
+P.M. brought us alongside _Salamis_, H.R.H. going on shore to bowls,
+having first arranged to wait over the morrow.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]
+
+Mr. Chow-Wang put in an appearance early, which looked like a settling
+of accounts, and certain difficulties about them were suddenly solved
+by H.R.H. insisting on paying the whole of the expenses of our
+expedition, left dollars with the Consul to be returned to Mr. Porter.
+
+[Sidenote: Tientsin.]
+
+We found at Tientsin letters from Chefoo. The Shanghai community
+regretting that circumstances and want of time prevented their proving
+separately their appreciation of my services in the Far East, invited
+the wife and self to a grand ball. H.R.H., Stanhope, and self mounted
+donkeys and rode to the town. The Prince had selected eight from the
+Navy and challenged the shore at bowls. They met at 9 P.M.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]
+
+It was four o’clock before our Prince came on board this morning;
+they had a spirited and hardly-contested game, the shore, however,
+beating the Navy five successive games, His Royal Highness backing his
+side until he had lost nearly four hundred dollars. Then he pluckily
+challenged them to double or quits, which he won. A long steamer,
+the _Chili_, ahead, was about to start for Shanghai as soon as we
+were out of the way. Wrote by her, thanking the community for their
+kind appreciation of my services, and regretting my inability, owing
+to orders from the present Board of Admiralty, to accept their kind
+invitation. At. 1.30 P.M. weighed and steamed down the Peiho for the
+third and last time.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]
+
+In steaming yesterday we met an American steamer with the French naval
+Commander-in-Chief on board. He was probably going to consult with
+his Minister as to the best means for obtaining redress, a French
+missionary having lately been beaten to death, another proof, if any
+were wanting, of Mr. Burlingham’s policy. Our commercial treaties have
+been forced on these Orientals, and by force only can we make them
+respected, or even retain a footing in the country.
+
+With history and centuries of experience before them, our Ministers are
+imposed upon by a highly paid American adventurer and made to believe
+that the Chinese people only require civilised treatment to receive
+and welcome us all over the Celestial Empire, whereas their rotten and
+ignorant Government are only plotting to get rid for ever of the hated
+barbarian.
+
+While looking out of the window during my toilet saw a well-dressed
+China woman stumping along on her poor contracted feet with her
+hands clasped and extended, shrieking and repeating some word. She
+suddenly turned towards the river, making a wonderful good run, and
+tried to plunge in. The water being low she stuck in the mud, when a
+man and woman went to the rescue and drew her on the bank, where she
+lay kicking her shapeless feet up until we passed out of sight; poor
+creature! I suppose they have their fits of jealousy as well as we
+barbarians.
+
+The tide not being high enough on the bar we anchored, which gave us an
+opportunity to inspect the Taku Forts--which we shall have to occupy
+some day.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]
+
+At 10 A.M. went to inspect the _Galatea_, where I was received with
+manned yards and all due honours. Found her beautifully clean, and in
+all respects a man-of-war. There is no doubt H.R.H. is fully captain of
+his own ship; without an efficient head she could not be what she is.
+Ship’s company below the average as fine-looking men, but as clean as
+seamen who wear beards and moustaches are likely to be.
+
+His Royal Highness came on board _Salamis_ to take leave of the wife.
+Old Raby, with his good-natured, comical face, took leave of me on
+board _Galatea_. On parting company _Galatea_ and _Icarus_ gave three
+hearty cheers from the rigging. Proceeded to Hong Kong.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER CIV
+
+HOMEWARD BOUND
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Hong Kong. Flag in _Salamis_, Oct. 23.]
+
+Came to in Hong Kong. Vice-Admiral Sir H. Kellett, my successor, the
+Commodore, and other commanders came on board. Keswick, of Jardine,
+Mathieson and Co., came inviting me to East Point. Wife and children
+had gone there in steam launch. Called on Governor, taking Lady
+MacDonnell a pair of pet china jars from Peking: one of which their
+orderly sergeant managed to smash in unpacking. Called on General
+Whitfield, who was confined to bed. He had sent his aide-de-camp and
+staff on board _Salamis_ on our arrival. We were kindly welcomed at
+East Point. The same evening there was a croquet party; Maginac in his
+glory. Besides the Grants of 9th Native Infantry and the O’Shaugnessys
+of staff, Gower and Robertson from Canton met us at dinner.
+
+Great preparations for the reception of the Duke of Edinburgh.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]
+
+To church in the Jardine carriage. I had issued a memo to the squadron
+yesterday that I should give up the command this morning. Friday fixed
+for my entertainment by kind Hong Kong friends. Sorry to hear of the
+death of kind friend Mrs. Gilman.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
+
+Our hosts got up an agreeable party at Pokofolum: Alexanders, Grants,
+Pollards, Overbeck, and others. Drove back by moonlight.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
+
+Dined with Overbeck. Large party.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
+
+The day of my entertainment. Cannot get the idea of a speech out of my
+head.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
+
+It came off at last--a flattering event, enough to turn my old head,
+Governor and all great people attending. My reception kind and
+enthusiastic. The continued cheering tended to give me nerve.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]
+
+Daily papers called it “the greatest and most successful entertainment
+that had ever been given in Hong Kong.” Dined with the Commodore; one
+of his good and cheery dinners. Admiral and Commanders present. Believe
+I part in harmony with all.
+
+[Sidenote: Sabbath, Oct. 31.]
+
+At 7.30 A.M. _Galatea_ was at anchor in the harbour and galley on
+shore. Should have been on board by 9, but His Royal Highness had
+already visited the Commander-in-Chief and made arrangements for
+landing in state on the morrow; but on my pointing out how much more
+convenient it would be if His Royal Highness would defer his landing
+until after departure of the mail on Tuesday, he acceeded to this, as
+he has done to every proposition I have ever thought it right to make.
+His Royal Highness received me so nicely, with all the warmth peculiar
+to his nature, yet never seeming to forget that I was, or had been his
+Commander-in-Chief. It was arranged that he was to call on, and lunch
+with the Governor at 1.30, and dine there in the evening, returning to
+_Galatea_ to sleep.
+
+As the morrow would be my last in Hong Kong, the Duke kindly proposed
+that self and wife should take a farewell dinner with him; but on my
+stating the distance of East Point, and the early rising on the Tuesday
+to go back to the mail steamer, he kindly accepted an invitation to
+dine with Keswick, which would greatly please our worthy host.
+
+Returned to East Point in time to go with wife to church. Received the
+sacrament--my last in China. At the close of the service, Buckle, the
+Governor’s A.D.C., came to our pew to invite us to meet the Prince at
+luncheon.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]
+
+Much to do at the last. Took a farewell luncheon on board _Galatea_,
+meeting the Admiral and Commodore. His Royal Highness gave me a copy of
+the _Galatea’s_ voyage to Australia. Under my name on the title page he
+wrote “from his affectionate admirer.”
+
+The dinner at East Point was a complete success. In addition to His
+Royal Highness and suite were the Heards, Keswick’s _fiancé_, Miss
+de Bourg, Kellett, Miller, Smith from Government House, Robertson,
+etc. This was the great night of illuminations. We were invited to
+see it from the _Galatea_, but the guide took His Royal Highness and
+ourselves to the wrong landing-place; we missed the chairs and got
+into a procession of illuminated fish of gigantic size. And the Duke
+mounted with my wife up a ladder into a small Chinese theatre, which he
+naturally concluded from its gaudy decoration and commanding position
+must have been intended for himself. At midnight the party dispersed,
+but His Royal Highness insisted on steering his barge with the old
+Admiral and his wife back to East Point.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]
+
+Now comes the end of my naval career in China, where the greater part
+of my services for the last twenty-seven years have been so pleasantly
+passed, but everything must come to an end.
+
+[Illustration: “_The Little Admiral_” (_Hong Kong_ “Punch”).]
+
+I had bespoke the steam-launch to take luggage and selves on board
+the P. and O. steamer, but one and all appeared determined to do me
+honour to the last. Although my uniforms had long since been packed,
+I was to embark from the Government wharf under a salute and with a
+guard of honour. At 8 A.M. the royal standard was hoisted on board
+the _Galatea_, and a general royal salute, with ships dressed, took
+place. I passed the guard, with Colin clinging to my hand. At the
+pier we found all the Government officials in full costume to bid
+farewell to the little old Admiral, rigged out in his Norfolk shirt
+and “Rodney” hat, and instead of his galley there were the _Galatea’s_
+barge and cutter--the former manned by His Royal Highness and
+ward-room officers, and steered by the Commodore, to take me off; while
+the latter was manned by the gun-room officers to take the wife and
+children. Colin, however, refusing to quit his hold of me, partook of
+the honour of being so conveyed. Never was such a demonstration, such
+a triumph, for an Admiral degraded! On board, too, I met all my old
+friends. There was the kind-hearted Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell,
+with a photograph for my wife of the house in which, not a year ago,
+Colin was so near his end; Overbeck and old Fischer’s son; honest
+old Henry Kellett, my successor; the hospitable Commodore, and the
+Prince, in rowing costume, with his crew, fourteen in number. His Royal
+Highness came into my cabin on deck, and there, in the quietest way,
+presented me with a gold watch as a souvenir, which he said would do
+afterwards for Colin, who seized the case containing the watch and
+insisted that it had been given to him! I, however, have never been
+without it.
+
+On shoving off, the Prince and his crew gave three more parting cheers.
+The _Salsette_ screwed ahead to the eastward, and having gained room
+turned round, passing again through the ships, when the cheering was
+repeated: foreigners, as well as our own men-of-war; even the invalids
+from the hospital-ships caught the kind infection. This old party then
+retired, feeling very grateful and his heart full.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER CV
+
+LAST VISIT TO THE STRAITS
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Singapore, Nov. 7.]
+
+It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit, although a
+farewell one, to the Straits Settlements. Just after sunset, as the P.
+and O. _Salsette_ entered New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed
+through the mist--the _Rodney_ on her way home. In less than half an
+hour I was at dinner with Algie Heneage. They had, as might have been
+expected, a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the sapient
+instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to use steam unless in case
+of danger. The extra time and pay of the crew would be more than
+expense of fuel.
+
+Both Governor and Judge had made preparations to receive us, and
+had sent their carriages. It was arranged, as the steamer would go
+alongside the P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land there
+more conveniently, when the wife and children should go to Sir Benson
+and Lady Maxwell, and I to Sir Harry and Lady Ord.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]
+
+As the _Salsette_ hauled alongside the coaling pier, I saw my old
+friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a deputation who had come to invite
+me, on the part of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow. Large
+dinner at Government House--a palace. Whampoa there. He gave me a pair
+of cassowaries to add to the museum on board _Rodney_, also some pigs
+to establish a breed at Bishopstoke!
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 9.]
+
+Had intended to have paid a visit to the _Rodney_, but continued rain
+set in, which lasted till it was time to start for the entertainment,
+which took place in the P. and O. Office building. His Excellency
+kindly drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with flags
+and flowers, while on the walls were the names in large letters,
+formed with flowers, of the ships I had served in on the station.
+Beginning with _Magicienne_, in which I was a Lieutenant, there came
+in succession, _Dido_, _Mæander_, _Raleigh_, finishing with the old
+_Rodney_ (now without flag flying). The chair was occupied by my old
+friend W. H. Read, with Sir Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his
+left. The tables were full; the guest of the day received with cheers!
+The chairman came at once to the toast which had brought them together,
+and went into a long detail of the ships in which I had served and
+commanded on this station, beginning with _Magicienne_. A laugh was
+raised when he alluded to the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of
+his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the _Dido_. I remember her
+well, with her taunt spars, sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful
+hull, dashing about the station in every direction, and always in for
+a fight when one was to be had.--The _Mæander_, with Sir James Brooke;
+his merits recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here. The
+_Raleigh_, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed into this beautiful
+harbour from the westward to show his confidence in its safety, and
+the wisdom of the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them of
+its existence in 1849.--Fatshan, ‘the smartest cutting-out affair of
+modern times.’ Last comes the _Rodney_, of which vessel I can only say
+we have seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong Kong and
+Yokohama: he never undertook what he did not carry out, and a better
+passport to posterity after such a stirring life no man need possess.”
+
+Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink “Long life and
+prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with three times three--and don’t be
+afraid of bringing the roof down!”
+
+Got through the returning of thanks with what composure I could muster
+before so many good old friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech
+about the wife and children, which was warmly received, and to which I
+did my best to respond. The meeting, which was a great success, broke
+up only in time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer was
+from the last of that noble class of ships, the _Rodney_. Friends had
+collected on the P. and O. wharf to give us “one cheer more.”
+
+[Sidenote: Penang, Nov. 11.]
+
+At 8 A.M. we anchored off Penang, my kind old friend Lewis the first
+on board to welcome me; also a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us
+to pass the few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining for
+six hours, we had only time to make a hurried call on the Lewises
+before going on board. Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu,
+Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China!
+
+[Sidenote: Galle, Nov. 17.]
+
+Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle Harbour, but an open
+and dangerous anchorage. Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We
+found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers, the _Surat_ being
+told off to take the passengers to Suez. _Surat_ the same I came out
+in near three years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in command,
+having lodged his ship on a reef in the Red Sea, from which she had a
+narrow escape.
+
+Keppel Garnier went at once on board the _Surat_ to see about berths,
+while Risk went on shore to see if we could not have possession of
+what is called “Queen’s House,” the original residence of the Dutch
+Governors, who thoroughly understood comfort. It was noon before he
+returned, it having been necessary to telegraph to the Governor,
+Sir Hercules Robinson, at Colombo, for permission; the reply being,
+“Certainly, if not occupied by Lady Napier.” Lady Napier was on her way
+to join her husband in Calcutta, and sailed shortly after our arrival
+in the harbour. Our steamer was to start again at 5 P.M. for Suez, but
+it was a pleasant change for the children and ourselves, if only for a
+few hours.
+
+[Illustration: _Jack Rodyk._]
+
+We had no sooner taken possession than the house was inundated with
+venders of all sorts--curios, inlaid workboxes, and desks of antique
+fashion, carved elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs,
+porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a dirty native,
+who called himself “Stony Merchant,” whose goods we were informed were
+all manufactured in Birmingham.
+
+Of course the children wanted everything. Colin got the model of a
+native boat, May an ebony elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory
+ones, which were removed from the sitting-room table while we were at
+dinner, most probably by the man to whom I had paid fifteen shillings
+for them. We enjoyed a fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an
+enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch Governors of former
+days, but Vrouws and families! Among the callers was Wodehouse of the
+Civil Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that numerous family
+are. The harbour-master conducted us on board the Government boat.
+
+It was dark, but it did not require much light to find that the deck
+was covered with some thirty or forty children, varying from the age of
+six downwards.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]
+
+Coaled at Aden.
+
+[Sidenote: Suez, Dec. 3.]
+
+Suez.--The _Surat_ was the first of the P. and O. steamers that landed
+her passengers alongside the wharf close to the new dock. A train took
+us to the hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel, with
+Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham. We had a walk and talk
+with them.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]
+
+The train took us off at 8 P.M. without giving us a chance of seeing
+anything of the canal or country. After fourteen hours’ suffering we
+got out of the train and embarked in a small steamer close by, which
+conveyed us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER CVI
+
+SOME FAREWELL NOTES
+
+
+[Sidenote: 1869. Dec. 14.]
+
+My apprehensions about my poor friend, Vice-Admiral George Henry
+Seymour, were realized. Nearly the first news on our arrival was that
+of his sad and untimely death. He had early dropped the name of George,
+as it was that of his respected parent, the good Admiral of the Fleet,
+Sir George H. Seymour, G.C.B., to whose residence in Eaton Square I
+hastened, and was received as the oldest friend of his beloved child.
+There was a letter addressed to me on the table with touching details,
+which I will not reproduce in its entirety. Henry was at the time of
+his death a Lord of the Admiralty and Member for Antrim. The following
+are extracts from his father’s letter:--
+
+                                  EATON SQUARE, _December 22, 1869_.
+
+  MY DEAR KEPPEL--From the long and sincere friendship which existed
+  between my dear Henry and yourself, I feel certain that no one will
+  have felt a sharper pang than yourself when you heard of his untimely
+  death.
+
+Sir George Seymour in the conclusion of a deeply interesting letter,
+adds:--
+
+  You have many friends, but never possessed a more sincere one than he
+  was to you.
+
+  He marked it on the very day of his death, when his eyes flashed on
+  seeing some one approach him; he thought it was you, and holding out
+  his hand, with a faint smile as he did so, mentioned your name. He
+  expired on July 24.
+
+  As a faint hope, he had joined his sister, Mrs. Gore, at Carlsbad,
+  and Her Majesty, with her usual thought and kindness, had sent Sir
+  William Jenner and Dr. Ellice; they pronounced the case hopeless....
+  Very sincerely yours,
+                                             (Signed) G. H. SEYMOUR.
+
+[Sidenote: Gunton Park, Jan. 1.]
+
+In compliance with kind invitation from the Prince of Wales, find
+myself at Gunton Park. The Princess as charming as ever, but not
+improved by the new fashion in hairdressing. Took Her Royal Highness in
+to dinner. Whist afterwards.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]
+
+Arrangements very pleasant. A cup of tea and slice of bread and butter
+on being called. Breakfast when you like at small tables. Church within
+a hundred yards; singing good and sermon short. The young Princes,
+Edward and George, dined while we lunched. Informed the Prince that I
+was writing to the Duke of Edinburgh. Was sent for into the Princess of
+Wales’ boudoir; the Royal children romping while the Princess carried
+the baby. The Prince was there. Altogether a charming picture.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]
+
+It was 7.30 P.M. before the fresh company arrived. On going into the
+drawing-room the most conspicuous and handsome (the Princess had not
+come down) was the Duchess of Manchester with seven rows of pearls,
+scarcely whiter than the fair neck they were on. Old Lady Ailesbury, as
+young as ever, the same flaxen hair, frizzed out. Lady de Grey looking
+very piquant. They all went into the shade when the Princess put in an
+appearance.
+
+Among the men, H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, but little altered; Lord
+de Grey, Lord Hartington, Duke of Manchester, Lord Huntingfield,
+Jim Macdonald, with his silky white hair; young Lord Dupplin, Oliver
+Montagu, grown out of all remembrance, and young Knollys. We were
+twenty to dinner.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
+
+The Royal brake and another open carriage took us to the shooting
+ground, where we had driving partridges until luncheon, which was hot
+and good, in a farmhouse; after that, covert shooting. The Princess and
+ladies came out after luncheon.
+
+[Illustration: _Last of the_ Rodney, 1884.[5]]
+
+[5] This picture of the _Rodney_ was given me by Mr. Emmanuel Emmanuel
+of The Hard, in whose possession is the original oil painting.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]
+
+Rainy and dull morning; much chaffing and good-temper among the ladies.
+Lady Ailesbury in distress for a newspaper, which young Oliver Montagu
+provided on condition of a kiss. The good-natured Prince, seeing me
+in a new great-coat, made me take his and save my own. Luncheon in a
+farmhouse. The following days were passed in the same happy manner.
+
+[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]
+
+With rest of company took my departure. A happy visit not to be
+forgotten for many reasons.
+
+[Sidenote: April 27.]
+
+Portsmouth.--_Rodney_ only paid off this morning. In perfect order to
+the last. Some £12,000 paid to blue-jackets and marines.
+
+[Sidenote: June 1.]
+
+The following letter reached me:--
+
+                                                40 DOVER STREET, W.,
+                                                  _May 31, 1870_
+
+  DEAR SIR HENRY--The University of Oxford propose to confer upon you,
+  if it should be agreeable to you to receive it, an honorary degree at
+  the approaching Commemoration, in recognition of your distinguished
+  services to the country as a naval officer. It is very pleasant to me
+  to be associated as Chancellor in this expression of their respect.
+  If you should accept the degree, it will be necessary that you should
+  be present in the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford on Wednesday, June
+  22. The ceremony will be over by one o’clock.--Believe me yours very
+  truly,
+                                                 (Signed) SALISBURY.
+
+  Sir H. Keppel, K.C.B.
+
+[Sidenote: June 21.]
+
+By 2.20 train to Oxford. Wife and Georgie West in lodgings at Muir’s in
+High Street, I to Richard’s snug quarters in Christchurch. The good Tom
+Garnier, Fellow of All Souls, undertaking to provide for our party at
+his rooms. Dined with the Vice-Chancellor Leighton in the magnificent
+library of All Souls, meeting Lord Salisbury, Bishops, Judges, Canons,
+Ex-Ministers, and all those about to be made D.C.L.’s. Excellent dinner
+and some good speeches.
+
+[Sidenote: June 22.]
+
+Accoutred in full uniform, surmounted by a college cap, and a doctor’s
+crimson silk hood and cloth robe. Assembled, according to arrangements
+published in the _Oxford Gazette_, in the Library of All Souls, thence
+to the Sheldonian Theatre.
+
+The Chancellor, heads of houses go in, leaving us who are about to
+receive the distinction outside until summoned. After waiting an hour
+and a half in the outer hall, we went in, single file, through a crowd,
+I following Robert Lowe. Cheering more or less loud announced the
+entrance of the forty candidates.
+
+Difficult to describe one’s sensation on entering this magnificent
+amphitheatre; rendered still more beautiful by tier above tier of
+lovely women, each armed with a bouquet, such as the season produces
+to perfection. Above the ladies, in an upper gallery, were the
+undergraduates, who loudly expressed their approval, or otherwise,
+of the different persons as they appeared below to receive the
+distinguished degree about to be conferred.
+
+In front of the entrance, on a throne raised to the level of the lower
+gallery, which contained the ladies, sat the Marquess of Salisbury,
+as Chancellor, at a desk; supported on either side by the great
+dignitaries, as well as by those who had preceded us and had already
+received the D.C.L.: an imposing sight. My place was next behind Lowe,
+Chancellor of the Exchequer.
+
+As we approached, an official announced in Latin who and what one was.
+This gave ample time to those who, like myself, felt nervous as to the
+mysteries of the whole affair, to look about them. An attempt was made
+by some of the undergraduates to cry down Mr. Lowe with “Non Placet,”
+which called forth corresponding cheers from his friends; the clamour
+and noise lasted some minutes.
+
+At last my turn arrived; name, rank, and performances were given
+out, as were those of my predecessors, in Latin. Loud and prolonged
+cheering. The Chancellor rose and addressed me in Latin, after which
+the bar was removed, I ascended the steps of the throne, shook hands
+with Lord Salisbury and then took my seat with brother D.C.L.’s and
+held my tongue.
+
+Lunch, including ladies, at All Souls, then to the Floral Garden and
+excellent museums. Weather hot and thirsty, with plenty of cooling
+drinks.
+
+[Sidenote: 1871. May 19.]
+
+By to-day’s post received a flattering letter from Mr. Goschen, First
+Lord of the Admiralty, stating the gratification it was to him to have
+submitted my name for the G.C.B. I replied that his opinion was more
+gratifying than the distinguished decoration.
+
+To London. Went to the Queen’s Ball, and met many friends.
+
+[Sidenote: London, July 3.]
+
+Donned full dress uniform, without decorations; drove to Windsor
+Castle, where, after an excellent luncheon, I, succeeded by many others
+(being the Senior K.C.B.), was invested by Her Majesty with the order
+of the Grand Cross of the Bath--having first been knighted. At the time
+of receiving the K.C.B. got a dispensing order.
+
+[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]
+
+Letter from the Duchess of Buccleuch, giving us the choice of a visit
+to Drumlanrig before or after an intended visit there of the Prince and
+Princess of Wales. Decided on going there the latter end of next month.
+
+[Sidenote: Drumlanrig, Oct. 25.]
+
+By train to Carlisle and thence to Thornhill, where we found the Duke’s
+carriage, which took us to the castle by a little after six. Nothing
+could have been nicer or kinder than our reception, company staying
+being nearly all connections. I took the Duchess in to dinner. Party
+consisting of Dalkeiths, Adolphus Liddell, son and two daughters,
+Walter Scotts, Egremont and Gerard Lascelles, and, as the _Morning
+Post_ would say, “etc., etc.”
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]
+
+Party formed for the moors. Nine guns--Dalkeith, Walter Scott,
+Adolphus Liddell and his son, two Lascelles, Colonel Thynne, who
+arrived last night, Johnson Douglas, and Mr. Maxwell. A bus conveyed
+us to foot of hills; four ponies for those who liked them took us
+two miles further to the grounds. A succession of hills covered with
+heather; with the exception of the hills near Thirlston, the first
+extensive moors I had been on. We drew lots for the numbers, which
+gave us the different enclosures, in which we hid while beaters drove:
+changing numbers after each drive. Lord and Lady Creighton arrived.
+Game return: Grouse, 137; Black and gray game, 8; Rabbits, 4. Total,
+149.
+
+[Illustration: _Duke of Buccleuch._]
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]
+
+Invitation from Mayor of Liverpool to attend dinner given to Sir Harry
+Parkes. Must accept, for November 6.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]
+
+Rainy day. Started, a smaller party, on the moors; persevered until wet
+through, then walked five miles home. Shot better, and killed my first
+black-cock.
+
+After noon arrived Lord Claud Hamilton and Mr. R. Melville, a director
+of the P. and O. Co. Our usual whist in evening; party consisting of
+Lady Walter Scott, Lady Dalkeith, Adolphus Liddell and self.
+
+[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]
+
+Attended well-conducted service in chapel.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]
+
+Covert shooting without driving. A cheery bright day. Bag: Gray fowl,
+6; Pheasant, 70; Partridge, 7; Wood-cock, 3; Roe deer, 2; Hares, 247;
+Rabbits, 66; Snipe, 1. Total, 402.
+
+After dinner, entrance hall cleared, and a piano dance, I commencing
+with the kind good Duchess, His Grace with my wife for partner. There
+were waltzes and reels. No people, old or young, could have enjoyed
+themselves as we did.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
+
+The Duke kindly sending us to the station, made us promise to repeat
+our visit as often as we liked. By train _viâ_ Carlisle to Liverpool,
+where the Mayor, Mr. Livingston, was waiting, and conveyed us to his
+country house.
+
+[Sidenote: Liverpool, Nov. 6.]
+
+The great event of my visit to Liverpool came off to-day. Mayor’s
+dinner to Sir Harry Parkes. Had to return thanks for Navy and
+self. Parkes spoke well, giving a review of affairs in Japan,
+from commencement of his appointment there to present time; very
+interesting. No one ever did more brilliant work in Japan than he did.
+
+[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]
+
+Since the middle of the month grave reports of the health of the Prince
+of Wales were inserted in the papers. H.R.H. had been at Scarborough
+with Lord Londesborough. With him was Lord Chesterfield, who,
+simultaneously with the Prince and the groom, were attacked by typhoid
+fever; of the three, H.R.H. alone survived.
+
+Princess Alice had come over to spend his birthday with the Prince, and
+remained to help the Princess in nursing H.R.H., who had left London,
+in the early stage of his illness, for Sandringham. On the 30th I
+received a letter from the Duke of Edinburgh, at Sandringham, saying
+he was delighted to give better accounts of his brother. The Queen had
+just arrived at Sandringham.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec.]
+
+The news was better of H.R.H. up to the 11th December, when a relapse
+took place, and his state was considered critical. Constant delirium.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 11, Journal.]
+
+All hope supposed to be at an end. How sad for the nation; what a kind
+friend I lose.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 12.]
+
+Uppermost in every person’s mind is the state of the Prince of Wales.
+Prayers in the churches for him, and for the Princess.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]
+
+Hopes revived by telegram of improved state of the Prince.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]
+
+Afternoon telegram confirming improving state of the Prince. Fatal 14th
+past.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 19.]
+
+Continued improvement of H.R.H. Had a chat with the Duke of Edinburgh
+at Clarence House.
+
+[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]
+
+Wrote General Knollys, congratulations to Prince and Princess of Wales
+on recovery of H.R.H.
+
+[Sidenote: 1872. London, Feb. 17.]
+
+Fully accoutred in uniform, and the G.C.B. collar, at an early hour to
+witness the grandest function that has been performed in the largest
+city of the world, friend Eyre taking me in his brougham. Not liking to
+risk being late gave up the sight of the route by Strand and Ludgate
+Hill, but took the less crowded road of new embankment.
+
+Seats allotted to the officers of the Navy being the north nave, St.
+Paul’s Cathedral, was in time to get in the front row and could hardly
+have been better placed to witness the touching scene of the Queen on
+the arm of the still limping Prince of Wales, closely attended by the
+young children and all the rest of the Royal Family. Both the Prince
+and Duke of Edinburgh recognised me as they passed. Thanksgiving
+service most impressive: the whole ceremony being a grand success.
+Queen, on returning by a different route, enabled thousands of others
+to show their loyalty and affection. Attended evening party, Admiralty
+House, meeting Duke of Edinburgh.
+
+[Sidenote: 1872. Feb. 28.]
+
+Wrote name in Prince of Wales’ book.
+
+[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]
+
+This morning’s post brought letter from Mr. Goschen, announcing his
+intention of submitting my name to Her Majesty for the command at
+Devonport. Announced the glad tidings to Prince of Wales and Susan
+Albemarle.
+
+[Sidenote: Devonport, Nov. 1.]
+
+Flag hoisted at Devonport. Heard the salutes while dressing. Donned the
+old uniform that had last done duty in China.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 1.]
+
+On my way from church I met the Duke of Grafton in sad distress. His
+Grace, with his invalid Duchess, had arrived the previous evening at
+Lord Mount Edgcumbe’s winter villa, situated by the sea, but sheltered
+from everything but the sun.
+
+Her Grace, who had retired early, was off in the first quiet sleep she
+had enjoyed for months, when she was thrown into violent hysterics
+by the discharge of cannon in quick succession--one, of course, the
+military evening gun, but the loudest was the Admiral’s. It was Sunday.
+Their Graces could not get away; another such discharge, he believed,
+would kill his wife--a repetition was not to be thought of; if I could
+put a stop to the daylight gun; and I had no doubt my friend Sir
+Charles Staveley would stop the military one. By early morning the Duke
+and Duchess were out of hearing.
+
+Now there was a factory within hearing, whose workmen went in on the
+firing of the Admiral’s gun. The factor, instead of coming to me to
+explain, reported direct to the Admiralty. I received an order not to
+omit the usual daylight gun. On foreign stations daylight is not “made”
+until the event is first reported to the Admiral. Communicated with my
+Flag-Captain Heneage. Daylight was “made” at very irregular times. I
+heard no more from the factor!
+
+[Sidenote: 1875.]
+
+My sailor’s life has come to an end: my land one must shortly. To
+describe all the hospitalities and fun I enjoyed during the command
+at Devonport, and the three-and-twenty years that have elapsed since
+the flag was hauled down for the last time, would fill many volumes.
+I have only space to mention the names of some who were kind to me
+during the latter part of my sailor’s life. First comes the Earl of
+Mount Edgcumbe, whose kind hospitality and the run of whose beautiful
+grounds caused time to pass only too quickly. Lord St. Germans of
+Port Elliot: I remember the first time I had the pleasure of shooting
+over his beautiful covert of hanging woods. Charlie Edgcumbe told me
+the keeper was anxious to see my ammunition. My predecessor had used
+ball cartridges from his ship’s magazine to the danger of beaters. At
+Helligon, was my good friend Tremayne.
+
+Saltram was occupied by the kind and hospitable Hartmanns. He, alas!
+no more. They had frequently with them the Marquis de Jeancourt, who
+once kept a stud at Melton Mowbray, the handsome Marquise charming,
+and so like her sister, the hostess. The Master of Hounds when I first
+arrived was Mr. Trelawney, the finest specimen of a sportsman I ever
+saw; of him there are published descriptions. I attended the opening
+and finishing of his hunt dinners. He was succeeded by Admiral Parker
+of Delamore, whose two cheery daughters frequently led the field.
+
+Some eight miles from the dockyard residence was the ever cheery and
+sporting Johnnie Bulteel, with his pretty wife and large family; when
+all together it was difficult to say which was mother. In another
+direction, at Maristow, a beautiful place, was Sir Massey Lopes, with
+a lovely wife, to whom I was “Uncle Harry.” Nearer to the harbour was
+Pole Carew of Antony, now represented by Colonel Carew, C.B., of the
+Coldstream Guards. Colonel Coryton, a good and hospitable sportsman,
+had a beautiful castle, Pentillie, on the banks of the river, to which
+his good sister has succeeded.
+
+Lady Ernestine Edgcumbe is now sole occupant of Cotehele, St. Mellion,
+Cornwall: the same as it was three hundred years ago. All these western
+landowners preserved as well as game.
+
+On a visit to Warnham Court to my friend Lucas, I was taken by one of
+his younger sons to see their sheep. On our way I noticed a lark’s
+nest, hardly discernible in the grass. Something presently caused a
+stampede. The flock, apparently a thousand, took to its heels and
+trotted along the park we had just traversed. I was alarmed for the
+fate of the lark and her eggs, and expressed my fears to Lucas.
+
+“Oh!” he said. “I don’t mind betting you a fiver that not a foot has
+even touched the edge of the nest. Come and see.”
+
+We went back. It was as he said. Though the footprints were within half
+an inch of it, the nest was undisturbed. A lesson to me of the Power
+which guides the instinct of animals to preserve smaller creatures from
+harm.
+
+[Sidenote: 1876. May 11. Return of Prince of Wales from India.]
+
+Telegram--_Serapis_, with royal standard, passed Portland, 8 A.M. To
+station to meet Waterfords and Dowager Lady: breakfasted at Government
+House, Portsmouth. Some 8000 troops to line streets and form guards.
+Our party admitted into dockyard by tickets. Progress of _Serapis_
+imposing towards the end; salutes, ships dressed and yards manned. As
+soon as _Serapis_ secured alongside dockyard we went on board. Duke of
+Cambridge there. Nothing could exceed the kind and cordial reception I
+got from H.R.H., as well as from the most charming of Princesses, she
+looking so happy. Returned to London by Royal Express. Dined with Duke
+of Grafton, meeting Strathnairn, Barrington, Jim Ryley, and Ashburton.
+
+[Sidenote: June 9.]
+
+While at Torquay seized with some internal disarrangement. Wife in
+a fright. Doctor Pollard sent for. Two visits within two hours.
+Chloroform and laudanum, morphine and other poisons.
+
+[Sidenote: June 14.]
+
+My birthday. Miss glorious Ascot. H.R.H. expected.
+
+[Sidenote: June 27.]
+
+An interview with the great Sir William Gull. Was bundled off to Vichy,
+where I met Lord Chesham, whose daughter had married Leicester. Had
+been there before and knew how the ropes led. Never enjoyed myself so
+much. We messed together; he had a charming Newfoundland dog. Chesham a
+general favourite. Frenchmen named them “Urbanité et Fidelité.”
+
+We had mountain strawberries and cream for breakfast. With baths, never
+was better, but determined not to leave my playfellow. It was July 16
+before I got to London. The next day was invited to a breakfast at
+Chiswick by the Prince and Princess of Wales; everybody there: Emperor
+of Morocco, King and Queen of Greece; all so kind to me.
+
+While staying with Sir William Medlycott at Ven Hall received a kind
+letter from the Duke of Abercorn inviting me to join his suite in the
+mission to confer the Order of the Garter on the King of Italy: nothing
+could be nicer.
+
+[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]
+
+Meet of the Blackmoor Vale hounds. Digbys, Glynns, and many friends.
+Country heavy from rain. Soon found; large field. We came to a stiffish
+fence with but one gap, which I left to the fair sex. Noticed an
+opening at the bottom, which proved to be a long-unused road covered
+with long grass. Where there had been a gate were now heavy bars, which
+I charged.
+
+Although I broke the upper bar, came down the heaviest cropper I ever
+experienced. Horse by my side in similar position, but clear of me.
+How long we had been there I know not, but friend Digby, who knew the
+country well, had followed the marks of a horse to the corner. He found
+horse and self as quiet as if we had been shot in action.
+
+I know not how he got me back to Ven Hall; it was the nearest, though
+I had that day been engaged to Minterne. My old coxswain Webb was sent
+for. It was eight days before I could be moved to London. All hopes of
+attending the Duke of Abercorn gone. Nothing ordered but quiet. Was
+conveyed to Haslar Hospital, where I certainly secured that for a few
+months.
+
+[Sidenote: April 30.]
+
+The _Eurydice_ training ship was lost in a snow squall off the Isle
+of Wight on March 24 with all hands except two boys. While propped
+up in my bed in the hospital, a regular installed patient--for how
+long?--bodies from _Eurydice_ were constantly being washed up, and
+funerals with the grand and sad Dead March in “Saul” were of daily
+occurrence; passing under my window. With the exception of a few days
+yachting I did not leave Haslar until early in August.
+
+Space only, forbids my recalling later incidents, which are, however,
+unconnected with my sailor’s life.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The last word must be written.
+
+[Illustration: Farewell!]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+  Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. 333
+
+  Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. 72
+
+  Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148
+    Sir Charles, ii. 46
+
+  Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. 55
+
+  Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246
+
+  Aden, iii. 118, 119
+
+  Admiralty Islands, ii. 150
+
+  _Adventure_, iii. 174, 180
+
+  _Africa_, i. 7, 12, 13
+
+  Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201
+
+  Ailesbury, Lady, iii. 322
+
+  Ainos, the, iii. 199
+
+  Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. 235
+
+  _Alabama_, iii. 83
+
+  Åland Islands, ii. 232
+
+  Albany, ii. 142
+
+  _Albatross_, ii. 81, 127
+
+  Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59
+    William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, 248, 249, 251,
+        252, 253, 254, 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58
+    Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; _see_ Keppel
+    George Thomas, 6th Earl; _see_ Keppel
+    Lord, i. 14
+
+  Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324;
+        iii. 38, 39, 78, 80
+
+  Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. 143, 171, 192, 194, 236, 237, 259
+
+  Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. 18, 117
+
+  Alfred, Prince; _see_ Edinburgh, Duke of
+
+  _Algerine_, iii. 224
+
+  Algoa Bay, iii. 46
+
+  Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84
+
+  Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. 125
+
+  Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190
+
+  Allen, R. C., ii. 3
+
+  _Alligator_, ii. 337; iii. 2, 8
+
+  Allison, William, ii. 160
+
+  Alma, the, ii. 240
+
+  Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121
+
+  _Amazon_, ii. 115
+
+  Amboyna, ii. 147
+
+  _America_ yacht, ii. 203
+
+  Amoor River, iii. 192, 210
+
+  Amoy, iii. 138, 139, 220
+
+  _Amphion_, ii. 47, 234
+
+  Amping, iii. 224
+
+  Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255
+
+  Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42
+
+  Anjer, ii. 129
+
+  Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12
+    Thomas, i. 7, 163
+    Hon. William, i. 8, 22
+
+  Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273
+
+  Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. 69
+
+  Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222
+
+  Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14
+
+  Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46
+
+  Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171
+
+  _Auckland_, ii. 77, 79
+
+  _Aurora_, i. 14, 43, 44, 61
+
+  Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152
+
+  _Australia_, ii. 128, 129
+
+
+  Bahia; _see_ San Salvador
+
+  Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. 320
+    Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123
+
+  Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262
+
+  Balambangan, ii. 94, 127
+
+  Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81
+
+  Bali Island, ii. 131
+
+  Baltic, the, ii. 220
+
+  Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146
+
+  Bankok, iii. 229
+
+  Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243
+
+  Barbadoes, i. 56, 108
+
+  Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200
+
+  Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201
+
+  Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279
+
+  Barösund, ii. 226
+
+  Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51
+
+  Barton, A., ii. 3
+
+  _Basilisk_, iii. 192
+
+  Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2
+
+  Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131
+
+  Bathurst, iii. 72
+
+  Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171
+
+  Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 36
+
+  Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201
+
+  Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139
+
+  Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97
+
+  Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3
+
+  Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18
+
+  Belem, ii. 213
+
+  Bell, Admiral, iii. 177
+
+  _Belleisle_, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277
+
+  _Bellerophon_, i. 200
+
+  Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. 101, 109;
+    _see_ Cavendish-Bentinck
+
+  Beresford, Lord James, i. 187
+    Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121
+
+  Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163
+    Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163
+    Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. 29
+
+  Bessani; _see_ Grand Bessani
+
+  “Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70
+
+  _Bittern_, iii. 1
+
+  Black Sea, ii. 251
+
+  Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199
+
+  Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44
+    Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88
+
+  Blakiston, Captain, iii. 238
+
+  Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123
+
+  Bogue Forts, ii. 54
+
+  Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238
+
+  Bombay, iii. 14
+
+  Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177
+
+  Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288
+
+  Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. 127
+
+  Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164
+
+  Boto Fogo, i. 36
+
+  Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278
+
+  _Bouncer_, iii. 234
+
+  Bourbon, i. 85
+
+  Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244
+
+  Bowles, Admiral, iii. 281
+
+  Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177
+
+  Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262
+
+  Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157
+
+  Bozin, Prince, iii. 180, 181
+
+  Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227
+
+  Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162
+
+  _Brazen_, i. 41, 42, 97
+
+  Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134
+
+  Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210
+
+  Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168
+
+  _Brisk_, iii. 45
+
+  Brooke, Brooke, iii. 11
+    Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, 312, 313, 317, 319,
+        333, 339; ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61,
+        62, 63, 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127,
+        202, 322, 334; iii. 11, 13, 29, 96, 115, 123, 220
+
+  Brooker, Commander, iii. 194, 260
+
+  Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97
+    Lord, i. 11, 177
+
+  Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. 25
+
+  Broughton, Lord, i. 97
+
+  Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45
+
+  Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. 126
+
+  Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. 326
+
+  Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. 82
+
+  Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. 40
+
+  Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84
+
+  Buffalo River, iii. 46
+
+  Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210
+
+  Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42
+
+  Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55
+
+  Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263
+
+  Bunting, ii. 21
+
+  Buonaparte; _see_ Napoleon
+
+  Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14
+
+  Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. 115, 124
+
+  Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. 56
+
+  Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122
+
+  Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71
+
+  Bury, Viscount, i. 254
+
+  Bush, Commander, iii. 221
+    Mr., ii. 116
+
+  Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76
+
+  Byng, H., ii. 48
+
+  Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43
+
+
+  Cabrera, General, i. 188
+
+  Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111
+
+  Cairo, iii. 18
+
+  Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334
+
+  _Calcutta_, iii. 3
+
+  Calderon, Don, i. 195
+
+  _Caledonia_, i. 168, 170, 200
+
+  Calverley, S., ii. 3
+
+  _Cambrian_, ii. 46
+
+  Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. 25, 322
+
+  Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, 301
+    Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244
+
+  Canning, George, i. 25
+
+  _Canopus_, i. 169, 170, 171, 176
+
+  Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267
+
+  Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. 132, 231
+    River, ii. 15; iii. 8
+
+  Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221
+
+  Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71
+
+  Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, 159, 202, 262
+
+  Cape Town, iii. 67
+
+  Caroline, Queen, i. 8
+
+  Carteret, Captain, ii. 152
+
+  Carthagena, i. 59, 198
+
+  Casher, E., ii. 55, 199
+
+  Castries Bay, iii. 214
+
+  Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153
+
+  Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125
+
+  Celebes Islands, ii. 108
+
+  Ceram Islands, ii. 146
+
+  Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339
+
+  Challier, Commodore, iii. 274
+
+  Charlotte, Princess, i. 6
+
+  Chefoo, iii. 172, 192, 264
+
+  Chernaze, ii. 263
+
+  Chersonese; _see_ Khersonese
+
+  Chesterfield, Lord, iii. 328
+
+  Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271
+
+  _Childers_, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, 198, 244, 272, 274
+
+  Chin-kiang, iii. 221, 238
+
+  Christmas Island, ii. 75
+
+  Church, Thomas, ii. 77
+
+  Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, 280
+
+  Chusan, i. 266, 277
+
+  Ciervo Island, ii. 188
+
+  Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68
+
+  Clarendon, Lord, iii. 265
+
+  Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143
+
+  Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84
+    Lady de, i. 52
+
+  _Clio_, i. 190, 191, 272
+
+  Clyde, Lord; _see_ Campbell, Sir Colin
+
+  Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53
+
+  Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136
+
+  Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27
+    Admiral Sir Thomas; _see_ Dundonald (“Young”), iii. 4
+
+  _Cockchafer_, iii. 187, 233
+
+  Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68
+    Colonel, ii. 46
+
+  Coghlan, Colonel, iii. 118
+
+  Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201
+    Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. 19
+    Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, 278
+
+  Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83
+    Lady Frances, i. 78
+
+  Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; ii. 47, 82,
+        128
+
+  Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13
+
+  _Colombo_, ii. 270
+
+  Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195
+
+  _Colossus_, ii. 312
+
+  _Columbine_, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; ii. 116
+
+  Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48
+    Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87
+
+  Comba Island, ii. 132
+
+  Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, 125, 128
+
+  Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73
+
+  Conolly, Mr., iii. 143, 192
+
+  Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312
+
+  Conti, General, i. 189
+
+  Cook, Captain, ii. 153
+
+  Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105
+
+  Cook’s Straits, ii. 169
+
+  Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49
+
+  _Cormorant_, ii. 199; iii. 139
+
+  _Cornwallis_, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331
+
+  Corromanli, Ali, i. 172
+    Youssuf, i. 171
+
+  Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231
+
+  Corvé Bay, iii. 173, 191
+
+  Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105
+
+  Courtenay, Captain, iii. 198
+
+  Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208
+
+  Creighton, Captain, iii. 187
+
+  Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244
+
+  Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105
+
+  Crosbie, Catherine; _see_ Lady Keppel
+    General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253, 255; ii. 27
+    “Dob,” iii. 145
+    Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251
+    William, ii. 55
+
+  _Cumberland_, ii. 235; iii. 115
+
+  Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. 76
+
+  _Cygnet_, ii. 40
+
+
+  D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289
+
+  Dalarö Channel, ii. 224
+
+  Dalkeith, Lord, iii. 326
+
+  Daniell, Commander, ii. 127
+
+  Darby, G. S., ii. 3
+
+  Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249
+
+  _Dauntless_, ii. 230, 231
+
+  Davis, Sir John, ii. 111
+
+  de Grey, Lord, iii. 322
+
+  de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. 44, 45, 55
+
+  Delagoa Bay, iii. 46
+
+  De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. 118
+
+  Delmé, George, i. 81
+
+  Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163
+
+  Dent, John, and Co., iii. 143
+
+  Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228
+
+  D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73
+
+  _Dido_, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii.
+        1, 29, 30
+
+  Digby, Lord, i. 12
+    Edward, i. 12, 98
+    Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219
+    Admiral Hon. R., i. 12
+
+  D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. 230
+
+  Dixcove, i. 213-215
+
+  D’Orsay, Count, i. 163.
+
+  Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304
+
+  Dover, Lord, ii. 201
+
+  Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185
+
+  Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28
+
+  Drummond, Edward, ii. 26
+
+  Duè, iii. 215
+
+  Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119
+    Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201
+    Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244
+
+  Dundee, iii. 111
+
+  Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, 278, 280, 322, 331;
+        ii. 68, 212
+
+  Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77
+
+  _Dupleix_, iii. 186, 187, 227
+
+  Dupplin, Lord, iii. 323
+
+
+  Eager, John, ii. 7
+
+  Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115
+
+  Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127
+
+  East London, Port of, iii. 46
+
+  Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47
+
+  Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. 40, 278, 284-315
+
+  _Edinburgh_, i. 169, 170
+
+  Elgin, Lord, iii. 10, 241
+
+  Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191
+
+  Ellice, Robert, ii. 116
+
+  Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127
+
+  Ellis and Co., iii. 223
+
+  Elphinstone, Lord, iii. 14
+
+  Emhammud, i. 172
+
+  Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. 323
+
+  Emot, Captain, iii. 177
+
+  _Endymion_, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, 278
+
+  Enslie, Consul, iii. 298
+
+  Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164
+
+  Esche, Mr., iii. 194, 202
+
+  _Espoir_, i. 68, 69, 77, 86
+
+  Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144
+
+  Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. 218
+
+  Eupatoria, ii. 261
+
+  Europa Island, iii. 50
+
+  Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260
+
+  Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278
+
+
+  Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195
+
+  Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127
+
+  Fatshan Creek, iii. 2
+
+  Fernando Po, i. 223, 224
+
+  Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225
+
+  Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107
+
+  _Firebrand_, ii. 73
+
+  _Firm_, iii. 177
+
+  _Firmee_, iii. 9
+
+  Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87
+    Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. 70
+    Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303
+    Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164
+    George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. 192, 205
+    Mary, ii. 40, 153
+
+  Flowers, Consul, iii. 301
+
+  Foley, St. George, ii. 310
+    Sir George, iii. 9
+
+  Foochow, iii. 236
+
+  Ford, Captain, i. 148
+
+  Formosa, iii. 222, 223
+
+  _Forte_, iii. 39, 41, 65, 77
+
+  Fukevitche, Captain, iii. 206
+
+  Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. 41
+
+  Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. 194, 195, 206, 208, 212
+
+  _Fury_, ii. 115, 128
+
+
+  Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52
+
+  _Galatea_, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. 284, 299, 302
+
+  Galle; _see_ Point de Galle
+
+  Gambia River, iii. 71
+
+  Garibaldi, iii. 83
+
+  Garnier, George, i. 16, 19
+    Henry, i. 148, 159
+    Lieutenant Keppel, iii. 190, 231
+    Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103
+    Thomas, iii. 324
+    William, i. 15
+
+  _Gazelle_, ii. 185, 187
+
+  Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116
+
+  George IV., King, i. 74, 102
+
+  Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, 201; ii. 217, 248
+
+  Gibson, Consul, iii. 224, 226
+
+  Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. 1, 20
+
+  Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104
+
+  Gleichen, Count, iii. 25
+
+  Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, 222, 249;
+        ii. 68
+
+  Goodwood, ii. 55
+
+  Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57
+    General C. G., iii. 245
+
+  Goschen, Mr., iii. 326
+
+  Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273
+
+  Gouldisborough, iii. 182
+
+  Gower, Consul, iii. 299
+
+  Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59
+    Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256
+    Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. 1, 3
+
+  Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. 227
+
+  Grand Bessani, i. 212
+
+  Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. 41, 46
+    Charles, iii. 11
+    Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333
+
+  Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77
+
+  Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. 45,
+        78
+    Sir George, iii. 40, 41, 45, 78, 79
+    Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22
+    Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249
+
+  Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. 224, 225, 226
+
+  Guyamas, ii. 190, 191
+
+  Gye, Frederick, iii. 25
+    Lieutenant Herbert, iii. 235
+
+
+  Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31
+
+  Hakodadi, iii. 159, 161, 219
+
+  Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. 1
+
+  Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57
+
+  Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. 327
+    Kerr Baillie, i. 82
+
+  Hankow, iii. 243, 249
+
+  Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. 182
+
+  Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81
+
+  Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164
+
+  _Harlequin_, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, 274, 322, 333
+
+  Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. 194
+
+  _Hartford_, iii. 183
+
+  Hartington, Lord, iii. 322
+
+  Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. 40
+
+  Hastie, ii. 47
+
+  _Hastings_, ii. 128
+
+  Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44
+
+  Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118
+
+  Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249
+    Lady; _see_ Sara Crosbie
+
+  Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116
+
+  Hayti, i. 61
+
+  Heki Hone, ii. 171
+
+  Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232
+
+  Heneage, Admiral, i. 102
+    Captain Algernon C. F., iii. 70, 115, 222, 223, 316
+
+  Henessey, Pope, iii. 230
+
+  Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264
+
+  Hewitt, Captain, iii. 192, 283
+
+  Hickley, Captain, iii. 174
+
+  _Highflyer_, iii. 8
+
+  Hill, Colonel, i. 66
+    Dr., iii. 192, 231
+    Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258
+    Lieutenant, i. 228, 232
+    Lady Georgina; _see_ Keppel
+
+  Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231
+
+  Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68
+
+  _Hind_, i. 168, 176, 180, 200
+
+  Hiogo, iii. 173, 174, 180, 187, 188
+
+  Hirado Strait, iii. 194
+
+  Hislop, James, i. 71
+
+  Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160
+
+  Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47
+
+  Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61
+
+  Hodgson, General, iii. 119
+
+  Hogarth, i. 96
+
+  Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. 18
+
+  Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. 85
+    Henry, Lord, i. 1
+
+  Holman, Joseph, i. 85
+
+  Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129
+
+  Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277
+
+  Honeywood, W. P., i. 97
+
+  Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, 337; ii. 113-115;
+        iii. 9, 113, 129, 172, 180, 186, 220, 231, 234, 311
+
+  _Hong-Kong_, iii. 1, 2, 4, 8
+
+  Hooghly River, i. 155
+
+  Hook, Theodore, i. 121
+
+  Hope, Captain, ii. 73
+
+  Hornby, Sir E., iii. 296
+    James G. P., i. 22
+    Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131
+
+  Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. 44, 45-55
+
+  Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297,
+        312-316, 325; ii. 40, 256
+
+  Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42
+
+  Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199
+
+  Howden, Lord, ii. 73
+
+  Hughes, Colonel, i. 93
+
+  Hume, David, ii. 44, 63
+
+  Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, 168
+
+  Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239
+
+  Huntingfield, Lord, iii. 323
+
+  Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95
+
+  Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200
+
+  _Hydra_, ii. 65
+
+
+  Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147
+
+  _Icarus_, iii. 170, 222
+
+  Ichaboa Island, iii. 68
+
+  Illanuns, the, i. 294
+
+  _Inconstant_, ii. 181
+
+  India, ii. 62
+
+  _Inflexible_, ii. 115
+
+  Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187
+    Lady Sarah, i. 187
+
+  Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76
+
+  Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53
+
+  Inkerman, ii. 259, 280
+
+
+  Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21
+
+  Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79
+
+  Java, ii. 131
+
+  Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3
+
+  Jephson, Dr., i. 253
+
+  Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63
+
+  “John Company,” i. 133, 134
+
+  Johnson, C., ii. 3
+    Lieutenant W. F., iii. 1
+
+  Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. 122
+
+  Joinville, Prince de, i. 201
+
+  Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284
+
+  Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. 129, 220
+
+  Jonos, the, iii. 165
+
+
+  Kaga, Prince, iii. 169
+
+  Kalamanta Bay, i. 180
+
+  Kapiti Island, ii. 171
+
+  Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176
+
+  Karangan, ii. 16
+
+  Kazatch, ii. 262, 266
+
+  Kearney, Major, iii. 2
+
+  _Kearsage_, iii. 83
+
+  Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. 310
+
+  Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54
+
+  Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. 36
+
+  KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:--
+    Birth, i. 1
+    Christening, i. 1
+    School-days, i. 2-5
+    Choice of a career, i. 7
+    Preparation for the Navy, i. 14
+    Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16
+    First voyage, i. 27
+    Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249
+    Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. 80
+    Appointments in H.M. Navy--
+      Midshipman, i. 25
+      Mate, i. 79
+      Lieutenant, i. 86
+      Commander, i. 158
+      Commodore, ii. 322
+      Admiral, iii. 15
+    Ships:--
+      _Childers_, i. 164
+      _Colossus_, ii. 312
+      _Cumberland_, iii. 115
+      _Dido_, i. 255
+      _Forte_, iii. 39
+      _Galatea_, i. 100
+      _Magicienne_, i. 119
+      _Mæander_, ii. 58
+      _Manilla_, iii. 143
+      _Pearl_, iii. 135
+      _Pelorus_, iii. 144
+      _Princess Charlotte_, iii. 130, 172
+      _Raleigh_, ii. 324
+      _Rattler_, iii. 143
+      _Rodney_, ii. 276; iii. 173
+      _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208
+      _Tweed_, i. 25, 66
+    Naval stations commanded by:--
+      The Cape, iii. 39
+      China, iii. 113
+      Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284
+      Devonport, iii. 330
+      S.E. America, iii. 71
+      Straits Settlements, ii. 77
+    Honours:--
+      C.B., ii. 314
+      K.C.B., iii. 15
+      G.C.B., iii. 326
+      D.C.L. Oxford, iii. 324-326
+
+  KEPPEL, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, 57,
+        88, 202, 207, 208, 328; iii. 18, 35
+
+  KEPPEL, Lady (Jane West), iii. 80, 95, 114, 230
+    Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23
+    Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326
+    Augustus Frederick, i. 254
+    Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. 80, 95, 116, 230, 231, 273
+    Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. 19
+    Frances, i. 254
+    George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; ii. 59, 61
+    Georgina, i. 66
+    Leicester, ii. 61, 69
+    Maria Walpole, iii. 98, 230, 275
+    Mary, i. 1, 66, 93
+    Sophia, i. 4
+    Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50,
+        81
+    William, General, i. 59
+    family of, i. 7
+
+  KEPPEL; _see_ Albemarle
+
+  Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272
+
+  Khersonese, ii. 258, 263
+
+  Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. 229
+
+  Kiel Harbour, ii. 240
+
+  King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67
+    Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. 113, 114, 121
+    Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169
+
+  Kingsley, Charles, iii. 114
+
+  Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60
+
+  Kinmel, i. 93, 162
+
+  Kissang River, i. 135
+
+  Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. 323
+
+  Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124
+
+  Kobe, iii. 298
+
+  Korbé; _see_ Corvé
+
+  Korea, iii. 194
+
+  Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171
+
+  Korsakof, General, iii. 195, 208
+
+  Kronstadt, ii. 230
+
+  Kuching; _see_ Sarawak
+
+  Kung, the Prince of, iii. 226
+
+
+  Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, 127; iii. 126, 230
+
+  Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242
+
+  Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211
+
+  Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54
+
+  Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144
+
+  Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221
+
+  Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59
+
+  Lante Bay, i. 170
+
+  _La Place_, iii. 162, 177
+
+  Lawrence, Captain, i. 182
+
+  Leicester, Earl of; _see_ Coke, Thomas William
+    Countess of; _see_ Hon. Anne Keppel
+
+  Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. 324
+
+  Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55
+
+  Le Marchant, Major, i. 75
+
+  Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45
+
+  Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. 36
+
+  Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189
+
+  Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. 118
+
+  _Leven_, iii. 234
+
+  Lexham Hall, i. 7
+
+  Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162
+
+  Li Hung Chang, iii. 245
+
+  Lima, General, i. 41
+
+  Linga River, ii. 2, 19
+
+  Lingghi River, i. 135
+
+  Linn, Mandarin, i. 264
+
+  Lisbon, i. 103, 184
+
+  Lissa, i. 22
+
+  Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. 67
+
+  Lloyd, Mr., i. 125
+    Lieutenant, iii. 235
+
+  Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, 272
+
+  Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116
+
+  _London_, iii. 110
+
+  Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17
+
+  Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76
+
+  Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 38
+
+  Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230
+
+  Lowe, Robert, iii. 325
+
+  Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14
+
+  Lupar River, ii. 6
+
+  Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148
+
+  Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215
+
+  Lyemoon Pass, iii. 182
+
+  Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54
+
+  Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267
+
+
+  Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. 1, 8, 9, 130, 222
+
+  M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144
+
+  M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. 8
+
+  Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. 323
+
+  MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. 129, 231
+
+  Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61
+
+  Macota, ii. 20
+
+  _Madagascar_, i. 165, 170
+
+  Madeira; _see_ Funchal Roads
+
+  Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158
+
+  Madrid, i. 186
+
+  Madura, ii. 131
+
+  _Mæander_, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, 155, 200, 201
+
+  Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199
+
+  _Magicienne_, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200
+
+  Magin, Captain, iii. 1
+
+  Mahé, Port, iii. 63
+
+  Mahébourg, iii. 63
+
+  Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167
+
+  _Malabar_, i. 169, 171, 183, 184
+
+  Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334
+
+  Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196
+
+  Malakoff, ii. 274
+
+  Malanga, ii. 172
+
+  Maldanado Roads, i. 43
+
+  Mallewali, ii. 96
+
+  Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17
+
+  Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. 117
+
+  Mambahennan, ii. 100
+
+  Mamelon, ii. 273
+
+  Manao, iii. 169
+
+  Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. 322, 323
+
+  Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. 230
+
+  Maratabu River, ii. 23
+
+  _Mariner_, ii. 77
+
+  Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326
+
+  Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249
+
+  Marseilles, i. 222
+
+  Martin, Admiral, ii. 239
+    Captain George, i. 169
+    Surgeon William, i. 75
+
+  Matapan, Cape, i. 180
+
+  Mataxa, Count, iii. 99
+
+  Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78
+
+  Maul, Fox; _see_ Panmure, Lord
+
+  Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. 63
+
+  Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. 317
+
+  Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. 223
+
+  Mayatchni Island, iii. 195
+
+  Maynard family, the, i. 164
+
+  Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188
+
+  _Medea_, ii. 116
+
+  Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. 221, 239
+
+  _Medusa_, i. 266, 274
+
+  Melville Island, ii. 134
+
+  Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94
+
+  Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240
+
+  Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64
+    Gulf of, i. 57
+
+  Meyerbeer, iii. 25
+
+  Miako, iii. 174, 175, 180
+
+  Michi, Mr., iii. 238
+
+  Mikado, the, iii. 190, 290
+
+  Millett family, the, i. 253
+
+  Milo, i. 68, 176
+
+  Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196
+    Doña, i. 196
+
+  Ming Tombs, the, iii. 172
+
+  Minorca, i. 14
+
+  Minto, Lord, i. 255
+
+  Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. 286
+
+  Mitford, Bertram, iii. 268, 286, 290
+
+  _Modeste_, i. 243, 277
+
+  Moluccas Islands, ii. 147
+
+  Montagu, Oliver, iii. 323
+
+  Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205
+
+  Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195
+
+  Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260
+    General Sir John, i. 260
+
+  Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285
+
+  Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146
+    River, i. 135; ii. 24
+
+  Moriataba River, i. 295
+
+  Mozambique Harbour, iii. 55
+
+  Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, 339; ii. 42, 84
+
+  Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6
+
+  Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172
+
+  Murrundum Island, i. 294
+
+  Musemberg, i. 73
+
+
+  Nagasaki, iii. 144, 145, 170, 191, 192, 220, 300
+
+  Najassi, iii. 201
+
+  Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6
+
+  Nanbu Harbour, iii. 158
+
+  Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285
+
+  Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. 239
+
+  Nankow, iii. 172
+
+  Nanning, i. 134, 135
+
+  Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167,
+        247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228
+    William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87
+
+  Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253
+
+  Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71
+
+  Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70
+
+  Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297
+
+  Navarino, i. 68
+
+  Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15
+    Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267
+
+  New Guinea, ii. 148
+
+  Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276
+
+  New Spain, i. 64
+
+  New Zealand, ii. 152, 169
+
+  Nicholai, iii. 192, 206
+
+  Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258
+
+  Nicholson, Port, ii. 169
+
+  Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284
+
+  Nigata, iii. 167
+
+  Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251
+
+  Ning Po, i. 279
+
+  Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257
+
+  Nogueras, General, i. 188
+
+  Norfolk Island, ii. 165
+
+  Norman, Colonel, iii. 296
+
+  Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289
+
+  Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49
+
+  Norton, Mrs., i. 260
+
+  Nova Scotia, i. 52
+
+  Novogorod Harbour, iii. 194
+
+  Nwajima, Prince, iii. 293
+
+
+  _Ocean_, iii. 179, 277
+
+  O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192
+
+  Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. 180, 227
+
+  Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59
+
+  Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209
+
+  Onrust Island, ii. 130
+
+  Ord, Sir Henry, iii. 316
+
+  _Orestes_, i. 180, 197, 200
+
+  Orizaba Mountain, i. 62
+
+  Osaka, iii. 174, 179, 180, 186, 190, 220, 298
+
+  Osmond, John, i. 84
+
+  Otho, King of Greece, i. 179
+
+  Ou-teng-foi, iii. 235, 236
+
+  Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128
+
+
+  Paddi, town, i. 317
+
+  Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94
+    Clarence, ii. 264
+
+  Pakington, Sir John, iii. 113
+
+  Pakoo, i. 318
+
+  Palmas, Cape, i. 211
+
+  Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. 28, 29, 32, 100
+
+  Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. 15-17
+
+  Papua, ii. 148
+
+  Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281
+    Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, 266,
+        271, 272, 273, 278, 325; ii. 27, 31
+
+  Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. 148, 150, 168, 169, 174, 179,
+        181, 187, 188, 273, 297, 328
+
+  Paros, i. 179
+
+  Parseval Deschênes; _see_ Deschênes
+
+  Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49
+
+  Partridge, C., ii. 61
+
+  Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67
+
+  Patingi, Ali, ii. 7
+
+  Patterson, Admiral, i. 52
+    Charles, i. 52
+
+  Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5
+
+  Pechell, Captain, ii. 299
+
+  Peck, Henry and George, i. 73
+
+  Pedro, Don, i. 40
+
+  Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335
+
+  Peiho River, iii. 171
+
+  Peking, i. 81; iii. 144, 171, 259
+
+  Pelham, Dudley, i. 166
+
+  _Pelican_, i. 226, 231, 242, 277
+
+  Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43
+
+  Pelorus, ii. 144
+
+  Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. 14, 120, 229, 318
+
+  _Penelope_, iii. 283
+
+  Penguin Island, i. 203, 208
+
+  Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199
+
+  Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176
+
+  Perim, iii. 118, 119
+
+  Pernambuco, i. 41, 42
+
+  Perote, i. 64
+
+  Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135
+
+  _Perseus_, iii. 234
+
+  Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. 208
+
+  Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100
+
+  Pfingsten, Major, iii. 195
+
+  _Phlegethon_, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234
+
+  _Piraeus_, the, i. 178
+
+  Plampin, Admiral, i. 48
+
+  Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. 130
+
+  _Plymouth_, ii. 121
+
+  Point de Galle, iii. 14, 119, 318
+
+  Po-leng, iii. 235
+
+  Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79
+
+  Pomony, iii. 56
+
+  Pontranini, ii. 20
+
+  Poore, Sir E., ii. 41
+
+  Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243
+
+  Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236
+
+  Porchester Castle, i. 52
+
+  Porirua, Cape, ii. 171
+
+  Port-au-Prince, i. 61
+
+  Portendick, i. 202
+
+  Porter, Captain, i. 98
+
+  Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153
+
+  _Portland_, i. 178, 180
+
+  Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85
+
+  Port Mahon, i. 194
+
+  Port Nicholson, ii. 171
+
+  Porto Praya, i. 69, 204
+
+  Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113
+
+  Posietta Bay, iii. 194
+
+  Potoo, i. 278
+
+  Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322
+    Major, i. 327
+
+  Price, Captain David, i. 178
+
+  Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73
+
+  _Princess Charlotte_, i. 52; iii. 129, 130, 220
+
+  Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244
+
+  Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. 114, 121
+
+  Province Wellesley, i. 283
+
+  Pulo Sabu, i. 288
+
+
+  Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. 40
+
+  Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65
+
+  Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23
+
+  Quitta, i. 235, 240
+
+
+  Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76
+
+  Raffles Bay, ii. 134
+
+  Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275
+
+  _Raleigh_, ii. 324, 336; iii. 2, 8
+
+  Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235
+
+  _Ranee_, ii. 86
+
+  Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196
+
+  _Rattler_, iii. 190, 227
+
+  _Rattlesnake_, ii. 153
+
+  Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72
+    W. H., i. 289; iii. 317
+    Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. 177
+
+  Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304
+
+  _Revenge_, i. 200
+
+  Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199
+
+  Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277
+    family, the, i. 248
+
+  Rich, Henry, i. 96
+
+  Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253
+    Duchess of, i. 72
+
+  Rigby, Colonel, iii. 62, 63
+
+  _Rinaldo_, iii. 187, 221, 222, 234
+
+  Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; iii. 42, 75
+
+  Rio de la Plata, i. 43
+
+  Risk, W. B., iii. 145
+
+  Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47
+
+  Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180
+
+  Robinson, Commander, iii. 221
+    Sir Hercules, iii. 319
+
+  Roches, M., iii. 174, 180, 188
+
+  _Rodney_, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; ii. 276, 304; iii. 173,
+        177, 180, 222, 247, 276, 323, 324
+
+  Rodyk, Jack, iii. 318
+
+  Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45
+
+  Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255
+
+  Romney family, the, i. 257
+
+  Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. 14
+
+  Rosebery, Lord, i. 7
+
+  Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117
+
+  Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. 187
+
+  Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. 20
+
+  Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27
+    Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, 247; ii. 39
+    Josias (junior), i. 261
+    Admiral Samuel, ii. 32
+
+  Roy, Captain, iii. 186
+
+  Rubielo, i. 188
+
+  Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230
+
+
+  Sacrificios, i. 114
+
+  Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85
+
+  Saghalien Island, iii. 194, 198
+
+  Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20
+
+  Saigon, iii. 227
+
+  St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178
+
+  St. Barbara River, i. 227
+
+  San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163
+
+  St. Helena, i. 90
+
+  St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261
+
+  _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208, 233, 243
+
+  St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69
+
+  St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62
+
+  St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238
+    Island, i. 123
+    Roads, i. 85
+
+  San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. 77, 78
+
+  St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. 73
+
+  St. Vincent, i. 97, 107
+
+  Sakai, iii. 186, 187
+
+  Salamanca, i. 82
+
+  Salamis, Bay of, i. 179
+
+  _Salamis_, iii. 115, 120, 122, 145, 173, 180, 192, 198, 234, 237
+
+  Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. 324
+
+  Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332
+
+  _Samarang_, ii. 18
+
+  Sambas River, i. 292
+
+  Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129
+
+  Sandringham, iii. 92, 93, 260
+
+  Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151
+
+  Santobong, ii. 112
+
+  _Saracen_, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, 240
+
+  Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, 112; iii. 11, 124,
+        229
+
+  Sarebas, the, ii. 127
+    River, i. 311
+
+  _Satellite_, iii. 122
+
+  Satsuma, Prince, iii. 174, 175, 178, 180
+
+  Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69
+    Captain, i. 326
+
+  Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131
+    Prince Edward of, ii. 253
+
+  Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87
+
+  Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. 170, 222
+    Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7
+
+  _Scout_, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, 242
+
+  Sebastopol; _see_ Sevastopol
+
+  Seboo, ii. 2
+
+  Sekarran, country, ii. 2
+    River, i. 312; ii. 6
+
+  Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127
+
+  Senegal, i. 238
+
+  _Serapis_, iii. 332
+
+  Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2
+
+  Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335
+
+  Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264
+
+  Seymour family, the, i. 253
+    Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. 321
+    Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, 333; ii. 235;
+        iii. 283, 321
+    Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17
+    Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. 1, 9
+    Michael (junior), iii. 3
+    Lord William, ii. 235
+
+  Shakotan Bay, iii. 227
+
+  Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. 142, 172, 180, 220, 237
+
+  Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288
+
+  Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182
+    Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282
+
+  Sheridan, Charles, i. 260
+    Francis, i. 260, 261, 262
+
+  Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60
+
+  Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187
+
+  Shunski, Ito, iii. 183
+
+  Siefukigi Temple, iii. 183
+
+  Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. 70
+
+  Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80
+
+  Simoneseki Straits, iii. 146, 265
+
+  Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; iii. 45, 67, 74
+
+  Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71
+    General, i. 81; ii. 279
+    Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323
+
+  Sinclair, Major, i. 291
+
+  Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, 322, 333, 338; ii. 23,
+        24, 75, 77, 111, 128, 129; iii. 9, 13, 115, 120, 121, 122, 230
+
+  _Sir Charles Forbes_, iii. 1
+
+  Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76
+
+  Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48
+    Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, 273, 278, 279,
+        291; ii. 65
+
+  Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71
+
+  Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176
+
+  Sober Island, i. 127
+
+  Somerset, the Duke of, iii. 79, 265
+    Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72
+
+  Soult, Marshal, i. 247
+
+  Spalding, John, i. 98
+
+  _Spartan_, ii. 41
+
+  Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. 41, 46, 57, 91
+
+  Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253
+
+  _Sphynx_, ii. 52
+
+  Spurrier, Mr., iii. 4, 20
+
+  Stanhope, Captain, iii. 179, 181, 186, 187
+    Elizabeth, i. 8
+    Spencer, i. 8
+
+  Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156
+
+  _Stanley_, iii. 222
+
+  Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123
+    General, ii. 117
+
+  Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240
+    Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; ii. 219;
+        iii. 15-17, 19, 27, 107, 115, 190, 205
+    Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233
+    Lady Mary; _see_ Keppel
+
+  Steward, Mr., ii. 7
+
+  Stewart, Mrs. Keith; _see_ Fitzroy, Mary
+
+  Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70
+
+  Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55
+
+  Straits Settlements, the, iii. 121, 316
+
+  Strongiolo Bay, i. 179
+
+  Suckling, i. 20, 24
+
+  Suez, iii. 18, 118
+
+  Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162
+
+  Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97
+
+  Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59
+
+  Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104
+
+  Sumatra, i. 149
+
+  Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123
+
+  Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75
+
+  Surtees family, i. 5
+
+  Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, 161,
+        246, 247, 249, 322
+
+  Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. 115
+
+  Swan, Commander John, iii. 190
+
+  Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221
+
+  Swatow, iii. 136, 233, 235
+
+  Swinhoe, Consul, iii. 237
+
+  _Sybille_, iii. 8
+
+  Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164
+
+  Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46
+
+  Syra, i. 180
+
+
+  Tagus, River, ii. 213
+
+  Tahiti, ii. 177
+
+  Tai-wan-foo, iii. 224
+
+  Taki Zingaburo, iii. 183, 184
+
+  Taku Forts, iii. 171, 264, 303, 310
+
+  _Talavera_, i. 169, 171
+
+  Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123
+
+  Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247
+
+  Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338
+
+  Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113
+
+  Tangiers, i. 168
+
+  Tang-Tau, iii. 234, 235
+
+  Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. 123
+
+  Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83
+
+  Tarragona, i. 189, 196
+
+  Tartary, Gulf of, iii. 192
+
+  Tasmania, ii. 157
+
+  Taylor, pilot, i. 257
+
+  Tchung-How, iii. 263
+
+  Templer, John, ii. 43, 62
+    J. L. B., ii. 43
+
+  Termination Island, iii. 195
+
+  Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. 82
+
+  Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251
+
+  Thompson, Deas, ii. 157
+
+  Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. 9
+
+  Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. 187, 227, 271
+
+  _Thunderer_, i. 121, 169, 170, 180
+
+  _Tien Chi_, iii. 222
+
+  Tientsin, iii. 303
+
+  Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128
+
+  Tomari, iii. 163
+
+  Tombeaux Bay, iii. 65
+
+  Tonga Tabu, ii. 172
+
+  Toolyan Island, ii. 106
+
+  Torres, Captain de, i. 36
+
+  Torres Straits, ii. 142
+
+  Tortoza, i. 188
+
+  Tosa, Prince, iii. 170
+
+  Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81
+
+  Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123
+
+  Tracey, Commander, iii. 177
+
+  Trade Town, i. 203, 206
+
+  Trafalgar, i. 7, 12
+
+  _Tribune_, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. 8
+
+  Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157
+
+  Tripoli, i. 171, 178
+
+  Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123
+
+  Trollope, Commander, iii. 222
+
+  Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120
+
+  Troy, i. 178
+
+  Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. 222
+
+  Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82
+
+  Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. 1, 4, 39, 45
+
+  Twanai, iii. 163
+
+  _Tweed_, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, 85
+
+  Twofold Bay, ii. 157
+
+  _Tyne_, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200
+
+
+  _Undaunted_, i. 67, 84
+
+  Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19
+
+
+  Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195
+
+  Valparaiso, ii. 195
+
+  _Venus_, iii. 186
+
+  Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65
+
+  Vernon, Lord, i. 184
+
+  _Vernon_, i. 169, 180
+
+  Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. 1, 2, 9, 25
+
+  Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. 19, 41,
+        116, 322, 329
+    Princess; _see_ Princess Royal
+
+  _Victory_, i. 53
+
+  Villa Nueva, i. 200
+
+  Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103
+
+  _Vladimir_, ii. 302
+
+  Vladivostock, iii. 198, 218
+
+  Vlangali, A., iii. 192, 194
+
+  _Volage_, i. 169, 180
+
+  Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191
+
+  Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173
+
+
+  Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81
+    Colonel, i. 81
+    Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14
+
+  Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171
+
+  Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. 81, 92, 93, 105, 113,
+        115, 322, 328, 329, 332, 333
+    H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. 81, 93, 105, 322, 333
+
+  Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. 74
+
+  Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7
+
+  _Wanderer_, i. 275, 333
+
+  Waring, Mr., i. 187
+
+  Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. 75
+
+  Warrington, Colonel, i. 172
+
+  Waterford, Lord, i. 246
+
+  Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86
+
+  Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8
+
+  _Waterwitch_, i. 223, 227, 228
+
+  Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278
+
+  Wellesley, Captain George, iii. 14
+
+  _Wellesley_, ii. 68
+
+  Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206
+
+  Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171
+
+  Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8
+    Frederica, Countess of, i. 8
+
+  West, Green, i. 71
+    Jane; _see_ Keppel, Lady
+    Rev. Richard, iii. 80
+
+  Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. 14, 232, 317
+
+  Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. 27
+
+  White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29
+
+  Whitehead, Mr., i. 322
+
+  Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27
+
+  Whydah, i. 237, 239
+
+  Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60
+
+  Wildman, Colonel, i. 11
+
+  William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, 200
+
+  Williams, Sir John, i. 94
+    Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165
+
+  Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7
+
+  Willoughby, James, iii. 117
+
+  Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. 178
+    family, the, i. 51
+
+  Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301
+    Mr., ii. 101, 105
+
+  Windsor, iii. 115, 116
+
+  Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63
+    Captain W., i. 169
+
+  Wodehouse, George, i. 103
+
+  _Wolverine_, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24
+
+  Wood, Sir Charles, iii. 9
+    Rev. James, i. 2, 4
+
+  Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. 180, 220
+
+  Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115
+
+  Wynberg, i. 71
+
+
+  Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64
+
+  Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150
+
+  Xeres, i. 184
+
+
+  Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. 237
+
+  Yarborough, Lord, i. 166
+
+  Yates, Mr., i. 66
+
+  Yedo, iii. 148, 179, 180, 265
+
+  Yeh, Admiral, iii. 6
+
+  Yeng Cheow, iii. 223
+
+  Yesso, iii. 164
+
+  Yo-chow, iii. 250
+
+  Yokohama, iii. 148, 150, 151, 162, 174, 177, 179, 180, 191, 192, 220,
+        295
+
+  Yokosha, iii. 191
+
+  York, Cape, ii. 142
+
+  Young, Captain, ii. 79
+
+  Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165
+
+
+  Zante, i. 180, 182
+
+  Zanzibar, iii. 57
+    the Sultan of, iii. 62
+
+  _Zebra_, iii. 222
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.
+
+
+
+
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+     Captain CHAMIER. With portraits on Steel of William James, Lord
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+     Popular Edition, with a Sequel relating Lord Dundonald’s services
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+_TIMES._--“Full of brilliant adventure, described with a dash that well
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+ =BRITAIN’S NAVAL POWER: A Short History of the Growth of the British
+     Navy.= Part I.--FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO TRAFALGAR. Part
+     II.--FROM TRAFALGAR TO THE PRESENT TIME. By HAMILTON WILLIAMS,
+     M.A., Instructor in English Literature to Naval Cadets on H.M.S.
+     _Britannia_. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. net.           [_Britannia Series._
+
+_TIMES._--“The facts are full of interest, many of them are very
+imperfectly known, even to those whose acquaintance with other and
+more stirring periods of naval history is considerable, and they are
+presented by Mr. Williams in a form both attractive and instructive.”
+
+_SPECTATOR._--“It is an excellent little work, and seems to include
+every naval event of importance during the period named. Considering
+the space at the author’s command, we think it wonderful how much he
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+
+
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+
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+
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+     RUDYARD KIPLING. Crown 8vo, sewed, 1s. net; Cloth, 1s. 6d. net.
+
+_ARMY AND NAVY GAZETTE._--“A very admirable picture of the life of
+officers and men who go down to the sea in the ships of Her Majesty’s
+fleet.”
+
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+
+
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+
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+     G.C.S.I., G.C.I.E. New Edition in One Vol. With Forty-four
+     Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo. 10s. net.
+
+_TIMES._--“A vivid and simple narrative of things actually seen by
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+It also records the experience of a military administrator who has
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+reorganisation of a great Army. But to the general reader, perhaps,
+its chief charm will be glimpses which it gives, with a certain
+Cervantes-like _naïveté_, of the personality of the author. A hundred
+unconscious touches, in the camp, on the battlefield, and at the
+council-table, reveal to us the veritable hero of the British private,
+and the fearless leader of men whom every native soldier would follow
+to the death.”
+
+
+ =A HISTORY OF THE INDIAN MUTINY AND OF THE DISTURBANCES WHICH
+     ACCOMPANIED IT AMONG THE CIVIL POPULATION.= By T. RICE HOLMES.
+     Fifth Edition, Revised throughout and slightly Enlarged. With Five
+     Maps and Six Plans. Extra Crown 8vo. 12s. 6d.
+
+_ATHENÆUM._--“May be accepted without scruple as a standard
+authority.... Is worthy of a warm welcome. It is convenient in form,
+and the maps and plans are excellent.”
+
+
+ =A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH ARMY.= By Hon. J. W. FORTESCUE. In Two
+     Vols. 8vo.                                          [_Immediately._
+
+ =A HISTORY OF THE 17th LANCERS (Duke of Cambridge’s Own).= By Hon. J.
+     W. FORTESCUE. Illustrated. Royal 8vo. 25s. net.
+
+
+_ENGLAND IN EGYPT._
+
+ =THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN: ITS LOSS AND RECOVERY.= By HENRY S. L. ALFORD,
+     Lieutenant Royal Scots Fusiliers, and W. D. SWORD, Lieutenant
+     North Stafford Regiment. With numerous Illustrations, Portraits,
+     and Maps. 8vo. 10s. net.
+
+        ⁂ The Narrative includes the BATTLE OF OMDURMAN and the
+                           FALL OF KHARTOUM.
+
+_DAILY TELEGRAPH._--“A plain, soldierly narrative which practically
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+
+
+ =THE CAMPAIGN IN TIRAH, 1897-1898.=--An Account of the Expedition
+     against the Orakzais and Afridis under General Sir WILLIAM
+     LOCKHART, G.C.B., K.C.S.I. Based (by permission) on Letters
+     contributed to the _Times_ by Colonel H. D. HUTCHINSON,
+     Director of Military Education in India. With Maps, Plans, and
+     Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 8s. 6d. net.
+
+_NAVY AND ARMY._--“A book of singular interest, and of much practical
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+
+
+MACMILLAN AND CO., LTD., LONDON.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Notes
+
+
+ • Italic text denoted by _underscores_.
+ • Bold text denoted by =equal signs=.
+ • Small capitals converted to ALL CAPS.
+ • Images relocated close to related content.
+ • Sidenotes relocated close to related content.
+ • The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate
+   the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location.
+   Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous
+   sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted.
+ • Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close
+   to related content.
+ • Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were
+   silently corrected.
+ • Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.
+ • Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.
+ • The index that appears in volume III has been replicated into
+   volumes I and II.
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 ***
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 ***</div>
+<div class='x-ebookmaker-drop'>
+<figure class='figcenter' id='front-cover'>
+<a href='images/cover.jpg'><img class='v100' src='images/cover-t.jpg' alt=''></a>
+</figure>
+</div><hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="new-page">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">[i]</span></p>
+<p class='half-title'>A SAILOR’S LIFE</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="new-page">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">[ii]</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='mt8 mb8'>
+<figure class="figcenter" id='i_colophon'>
+  <img class="v100" src="images/i_colophon.png" alt="Colophon">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class='new-page'>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"></a><a id="Page_iv"></a>[iv]</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_frontis'>
+  <img class='v100' src='images/i_frontis.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>“Sibuko had had his Quietus.”</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="new-page">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[v]</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<h1>
+<span class='db'>A SAILOR’S LIFE</span>
+<span class='db fs80 mth'>UNDER</span>
+<span class='db mth'>FOUR SOVEREIGNS</span>
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center fs80 mt2">BY</p>
+
+<p class="center mth">ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET</p>
+
+<p class="center fs120 mth">THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL</p>
+
+<p class="center fs80 mth">G.C.B., D.C.L.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center mt2">VOL. III.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center mt2 fs120 blackletter">London</p>
+<p class="center fs120">MACMILLAN AND CO., <span class="smcap">Limited</span></p>
+<p class="center fs80 mtq">NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</p>
+<p class="center mtq">1899</p>
+
+<p class="center fs80 mt1"><em>All rights reserved</em></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class="toc">
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXVI'>CHAPTER LXVI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr fs50" colspan='2' style='margin-top: -1em;'>PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Fatshan Creek</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXVII'>CHAPTER LXVII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Visit Sarawak</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXVIII'>CHAPTER LXVIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Sarawak—India—England</td>
+<td class="tdr">11</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXIX'>CHAPTER LXIX</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">England</td>
+<td class="tdr">19</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXX'>CHAPTER LXX</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">England—Groom-in-Waiting</td>
+<td class="tdr">32</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXI'>CHAPTER LXXI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">In Waiting</td>
+<td class="tdr">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXII'>CHAPTER LXXII</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[viii]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Cape Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">39</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXIII'>CHAPTER LXXIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Cape Command—Flag in <span class='ships'>Brisk</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">45</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXIV'>CHAPTER LXXIV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">East Coast Sport</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXV'>CHAPTER LXXV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Zanzibar—Shooting Hippopotami</td>
+<td class="tdr">57</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXVI'>CHAPTER LXXVI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Zanzibar</td>
+<td class="tdr">62</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXVII'>CHAPTER LXXVII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><span class='ships'>Forte</span>—Flag Re-hoisted</td>
+<td class="tdr">65</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXVIII'>CHAPTER LXXVIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Cape Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">68</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXIX'>CHAPTER LXXIX</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Return to England</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXX'>CHAPTER LXXX</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Shore Time</td>
+<td class="tdr">80</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXI'>CHAPTER LXXXI</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[ix]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Country House Visits</td>
+<td class="tdr">92</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXII'>CHAPTER LXXXII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">A Shore Journal</td>
+<td class="tdr">104</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXIII'>CHAPTER LXXXIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Home Life</td>
+<td class="tdr">109</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXIV'>CHAPTER LXXXIV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Command in China</td>
+<td class="tdr">113</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXV'>CHAPTER LXXXV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Bound for China</td>
+<td class="tdr">117</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXVI'>CHAPTER LXXXVI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">129</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXVII'>CHAPTER LXXXVII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">North China Ports</td>
+<td class="tdr">139</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXVIII'>CHAPTER LXXXVIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Daibootz</td>
+<td class="tdr">153</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_LXXXIX'>CHAPTER LXXXIX</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">164</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XC'>CHAPTER XC</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Outlook for the New Year</td>
+<td class="tdr">173</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCI'>CHAPTER XCI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Hari-Kari</td>
+<td class="tdr">183</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCII'>CHAPTER XCII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">190</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCIII'>CHAPTER XCIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Flag in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">206</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCIV'>CHAPTER XCIV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">218</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCV'>CHAPTER XCV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Command in China</td>
+<td class="tdr">227</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCVI'>CHAPTER XCVI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Northern Ports</td>
+<td class="tdr">237</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCVII'>CHAPTER XCVII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Memories of Gordon</td>
+<td class="tdr">245</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCVIII'>CHAPTER XCVIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Yang-tse-kiang Trip</td>
+<td class="tdr">256</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_XCIX'>CHAPTER XCIX</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[xi]</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Chefoo to Japan</td>
+<td class="tdr">263</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_C'>CHAPTER C</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">272</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CI'>CHAPTER CI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">278</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CII'>CHAPTER CII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Close of China Command</td>
+<td class="tdr">285</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CIII'>CHAPTER CIII</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Peking</td>
+<td class="tdr">298</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CIV'>CHAPTER CIV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Homeward Bound</td>
+<td class="tdr">311</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CV'>CHAPTER CV</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Last Visit to the Straits</td>
+<td class="tdr">316</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#CHAPTER_CVI'>CHAPTER CVI</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Some Farewell Notes</td>
+<td class="tdr">321</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class='tdc' colspan='2'><a href='#INDEX'>INDEX</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii"></a><a id="Page_xiii"></a>[xiii]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="ILLUSTRATIONS">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class='illustrations'>
+<tr>
+<th class="tdc fs80" style='width: 25em;'>SUBJECT</th>
+<th class="tdc fs80" style='width: 10em;'>ARTIST</th>
+<th class="tdc fs80" style='width: 5em;'>PAGE</th>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">“Sibuko had had his Quietus”</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>E. Caldwell</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_frontis'>Frontispiece</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Part of my Galley’s Crew</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Nina Daly</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_003'>3</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia</td>
+<td class='tdl'></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_005'>5</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">A Malay Kampong</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Photo by Dr. Johnstone</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_011'>11</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">In Bornean Jungle</td>
+<td class="tdc">”&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_012'>12</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Whampoa</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_013'>13</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Suspicious Junks</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Sir Oswald Brierly</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_021'>21</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Forte</i> at Rio</td>
+<td class="tdc">”&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_043'>43</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">My Middle Watch</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>J. W. Houghton</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_053'>53</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">A Right and Left Shot</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>E. Caldwell</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_059'>59</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Commodore Oliver Jones</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Nina Daly</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_129'>129</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Map—Eastern Archipelago</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_142'>142</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Sir Rutherford Alcock</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_143'>143</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Sir Harry Parkes</td>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_148'>148</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Crossing a River in Japan</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Commodore Oliver Jones</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_161'>161</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Lord Charles Scott</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Nina Daly</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_170'>170</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_193'>193</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">May and Webb</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_248'>248</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Mrs. Alt</td>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_274'>274</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">The Prince who made the Omelette</td>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_305'>305</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">“The Little Admiral”</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Hong Kong</i> “Punch”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_314'>314</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Jack Rodyk</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Photograph</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_319'>319</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Last of the <i>Rodney</i>, 1884</td>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_323'>323</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Duke of Buccleuch</td>
+<td class="tdc">”</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_327'>327</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Admiral of the Fleet, The Hon. Sir
+Henry Keppel, G.C.B., D.C.L.</td>
+<td class="tdl"><i>Sketched at The Albany</i>
+<i>by Nina Daly</i></td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href='#i_335'>335</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv"></a><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXVI">
+    CHAPTER LXVI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Fatshan Creek</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1857.
+May&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>The time had arrived that the Admiral had arranged
+for the destruction of the Chinese Fleet. Prince
+Victor of Hohenlohe, my late aide-de-camp when I
+had the Naval Brigade in Crimea, was now with me
+as Commodore’s Flag Lieutenant. My gig only
+held one sitter besides self. Among my other boys
+I had on board the <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> with Goodenough
+were Lord Charles Scott, Victor Montagu, and Harry
+Stephenson. I left Commander Turnour in the
+<span class='ships'>Bittern</span> to arrange my other boys. He had with
+him Lieutenant Stanley Graham, Dupuis, Foster,
+Pilkington, and A. V. Paget. In the <i>Sir Charles
+Forbes</i> were Lieutenant Lord Gilford and Hardy
+M‘Hardy. In the Macao Fort were Lieutenant
+W. F. Johnson and Captain Magin, Lieutenant
+Owen, Royal Marines, Hon. F. G. Crofton, and
+H. B. Russell, Master’s Assistant. My late youngster,
+“Jacko Hall,” in <span class='ships'>Childers</span> brig was now Flag Captain:
+a strictly religious man.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Though everything was ready he had sufficient
+influence with our good chief not to desecrate the
+Sabbath, and so deferred the attack until Monday,
+the 1st of June, on which day I had the honour of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>
+leading the boats of the Fleet in an attack on a strong
+force of the Imperialist junks posted in two divisions
+in well-selected positions in the Fatshan Creek. The
+following account is taken from a letter to my sister
+Mary:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><span class='ships'>Alligator</span>, <span class="smcap">Canton River</span>,</p>
+<p class='center'><i>June 20, 1857</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'>The three weeks of this month have been full of excitement.
+We commenced on the first with as pretty a boat
+action as can be imagined, though it may not be appreciated
+because it occurred in distant China. From the heights the
+Fatshan Creek affair must have been a beautiful sight. My
+broad pennant was hoisted on board the <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span>. The
+shallow water caused her to ground; she would otherwise
+have been in front. Took with me Prince Victor of
+Hohenlohe, having previously been commanded by Her
+Majesty, through Sir Charles Phipps, to take every care of
+him, and left Victor Montagu, my proper gig’s mid, on
+board; but the lifting tide soon put him in the midst. We
+took the lead. The first division of the Chinese were
+attacked simultaneously by about 1900 men. I had not
+more than a quarter of that number to attack the second
+division, which was three miles higher up the river in a
+well-selected place, evidently the <i lang='fr'>élite</i> of their Fleet. The
+junks numbered twenty in one compact row, mounting
+about fourteen guns each, removed to the side next us,
+those in the stern and bow being heavy 32-pounders.
+Boarding nets were dropped on our boats, but not until our
+men were alongside, as it enabled them all the quicker to
+sever the cables connecting the junks. <span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span> boats well
+up, and did not require cheering on. The Chinese fired
+occasional shots to ascertain exact distance, but did not open
+their heaviest fire till we were within 600 yards. Nearly
+the first poor fellow cut in two by a round shot was an
+amateur, Major Kearney, whom I had known many years.
+We cheered, and were trying to get to the front when a shot
+struck our boat, killing the bowman. Another was cut in
+two. A third shot took another’s arm off. Prince Victor
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span>
+leaned forward to bind up the man’s arm with his neck-cloth.
+While he was so doing, a shot passed through both sides of
+the boat, wounding two more of the crew; in short, the
+boat was sunk under us.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_003'>
+  <img class='v100' src='images/i_003.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Part of my Galley’s Crew.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Our man-of-war boats do not carry iron ballast, but are
+steadied by “breakers” made to fit neatly under each thwart
+and filled with fresh water. The tide rising, boats disabled,
+oars shot away, it was necessary to re-form. I was collared
+and drawn from the water by young Michael Seymour, a
+mate of his uncle’s flagship, the <span class='ships'>Calcutta</span>. We were all
+picked up except the dead bowman, whom the faithful dog
+“Mike” would not leave. As we retired I shook my fist
+at the junks, promising I would pay them off. We went to
+the <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> and re-formed. I hailed Lieutenant Graham
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>
+to get his boat ready, as I would hoist the broad pennant for
+next attack in his boat. I had no sooner spoken when he
+was down, the same shot killing and wounding four others.
+Graham was one mass of blood, but it was from a marine
+who stood next to him, part of whose skull was forced three
+inches into another man’s shoulder. When we reached the
+<span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> the whole of the Chinese fire appeared to be
+centred on her. She was hulled twelve times in a few
+minutes. Her deck was covered with the wounded, who
+had been brought on board from different boats. From the
+paddle-box we saw that the noise of guns was bringing up
+strong reinforcements. The account of our having been
+obliged to retire had reached them. They were pulling up
+like mad. The <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> had floated, but grounded again.
+A bit of blue bunting was prepared to represent a broad
+pennant, and I called out, “Let’s try the row boats once
+more, boys,” and went over the side into our cutter
+(<span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span>), in which was Turnour and the faithful coxswain,
+Spurrier. At this moment there arose from the
+boats, as if every man took it up at the same instant, one of
+those British cheers, so full of meaning, that I knew at once
+it was all up with John Chinaman. They might sink
+twenty boats, but there were thirty others who would go
+ahead all the faster. It was indeed an exciting sight.
+A move among the junks! They were breaking ground
+and moving off, the outermost first! This the Chinese
+performed in good order, without slacking fire. Then
+commenced an exciting chase for seven miles. As our shot
+told they ran mostly on to the mud banks, and their crews
+forsook them. Young Cochrane in his light gig got the
+start of me, but, having boarded a war junk, John Chinaman
+did not wait to receive him properly, but preferred mud on
+the other side. Seventeen junks were overtaken and captured.
+Three only escaped. Before this last chase my poor Spurrier
+was shot down. I saw his bowels protruding, with my
+binoculars in the middle, as he lay in the bottom of the
+boat, holding my hand. He asked if there was any hope.
+I could only say, “Where there is life there is hope,” but I
+had none! He was removed into another boat, and sent to
+the hospital ship. Strange to say, the good Crawford served
+him up, and the Admiral’s last letter from Hong-Kong
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span>
+states that Spurrier hoped to return to his duty in a few
+days.</p>
+</div>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_005'>
+  <a href='images/i_005.jpg'><img class='v100' src='images/i_005-t.jpg' alt=''></a>
+  <figcaption>Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>Words fail me, on looking back to this stirring
+day, to express my gratitude that I was allowed to
+take part in this action. When my ship was lost, I
+felt as if my day was done. But fate was kind, and
+Fatshan Creek gave me another chance in the service
+I ardently loved.</p>
+
+<p>The following proclamation, by the Chinese
+Admiral Yeh, was found in one of the captured
+junks after Fatshan:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Liang, subaltern in charge of the Tan chau&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Station of
+the Kwang Tung Province, whose name is noted for the
+rank of captain, with authority meanwhile to wear the
+button of that rank, makes a communication.</p>
+
+<p>“I am in receipt of a despatch from the Governor
+General Yeh, to the following effect:—</p>
+
+<p>“‘Whereas the barbarian outlaws&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_2_2" href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> have not as yet
+submitted, and the nature of these rebels is not to be
+fathomed, the officers and men of the different vessels
+stationed at P’ing-chau&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_3_3" href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> must stand well and strictly on
+their guard, so as to be ready at all points, and prevent any
+mishap. It is my duty, therefore, to send orders at once
+to you, on receipt of which you will, in obedience thereto,
+immediately confer with the other officers associated with
+you on this service, and with them set an example in concerting
+proper measures of control and precaution on board
+your respective vessels. You will continue without distinction
+of day or night to patrol constantly, as a shuttle
+moves in the loom, and to make observation assiduously
+and with secrecy. The soldiers and braves under your
+command must on no account land, or leave their vessels;
+and if there be the slightest movement on the part of the
+barbarians, you must make for Sam-shan and open fire upon
+them, cutting off and slaying ruthlessly. If any one ruin
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>the undertaking by venturing, be it ever so little, to be
+slack or indifferent, the officer commanding shall be held
+responsible; no mercy shall be shown him. Courage in
+the engagement shall be liberally rewarded. Haste in
+fear! Haste in earnest!’</p>
+
+<p>“In obedience to the above I write to every other of the
+officers in charge of vessels. In addition to this it is my
+duty to write also to you; I accordingly write and request
+that you will in no particular depart from the instructions
+of His Excellency.</p>
+
+<p>“A necessary communication addressed to the officer in
+charge of the Shun-on Li junk.</p>
+
+<p>“Hien Fung, 7th year, 5th moon, 8th day (29th
+May, 1857).”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='footnotes'>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> In Hai-nan.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_2_2" href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="label">[2]</a> <i lang='zh'>Fi</i>, vagabonds, rebels, or any lawless persons.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_3_3" href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="label">[3]</a> Between Sam-shan and Fat-shan.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXVII">
+    CHAPTER LXVII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Visit Sarawak</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1857.
+June&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Master and self tried by court-martial on board
+the <span class='ships'>Sybille</span> for the loss of the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>The hull of my poor <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span> advertised for sale,
+to take place on Monday 29th. Who would have
+believed it! Commander-in-Chief appointing us by
+commission, dated yesterday, to the <span class='ships'>Alligator</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Canton
+River,
+June&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p><em>Sunday.</em>—My birthday. Enter my forty-ninth
+year—a day on which one no longer cares to be
+congratulated. Went up in <span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span> as far as
+Second Bar, where <span class='ships'>Tribune</span> and <span class='ships'>Highflyer</span> are.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Proceeded to Macao Fort; found they had made
+a prize of a mandarin junk laden with tea.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Returned as far as Second Bar and met Sampson.
+No permission from Chief to ascend Anninghoy Creek.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Made preparations for capture of the Chucupee
+Fort. The Celestials, however, mizzled on our
+approach. Took possession and left Edgell with
+<span class='ships'>Tribune</span> in charge.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Anniversary of Her Majesty’s Accession. Dressed
+ships. At noon fired Royal salutes the whole length
+of the Canton River.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Shifted berth to below Second Bar, taking old
+<span class='ships'>Alligator</span> up. Dined with Sir Robert M‘Clure of
+North-West Passage celebrity in <span class='ships'>Esk</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Friend “Thomas,” Prince Victor, and self took
+departure for Dent’s comfortable quarters at Macao,
+on board the <span class='ships'>Firmee</span>. Found poor Cleverly still
+confined to bed. Met a clerk of Dent’s House,
+who wears a moustache, and looks a muff.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Macao better climate than Hong-Kong. Thomas,
+Prince Victor, and I dined at Endicott’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Heard of the untimely death of poor young
+Foster, which took place on board the <span class='ships'>Fury</span> off
+Macao Fort. By <span class='ships'>Firmee</span> to Hong-Kong and Dent’s
+bungalow. Visit from St. George Foley.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Returned by <span class='ships'>Firmee</span> to Macao, meeting Admiral
+there in <span class='ships'>Coromandel</span>, who informed me of the little
+chance I had of becoming second in command, as far
+as Sir Charles Wood was concerned.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Mail in from England. Ascertained from Commander-in-Chief
+that Sir Charles Wood at Admiralty
+disapproved of my broad pennant being hoisted after
+loss of <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>. Decided on going home.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>The worthy Judge Hulme gave me a farewell
+dinner. Parting dinner at Dent’s. William Dent
+over from Macao.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hong-kong,
+Aug.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Took leave of my good friends the Dents. Also
+the kind Admiral. Embarked on board <span class='ships'>Formosa</span>,
+P. and O. steamer, for passage to England, with
+option of landing and coming on when and how I
+like. Flagship manning rigging and cheering on
+passing. My <span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span> officers on board, with others,
+to wish me good-bye!!!</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<div class="sidenote">P. and O.
+<span class='ships'>Formosa</span>,
+Aug.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Once more on the wide and open sea, but in the
+novel position of passenger. Dr. and Mrs. Parker
+and my worthy friend and old shipmate Crawford of
+the party.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Arrived in New Harbour, Singapore.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>Kindly taken in by Blundell at Government House.
+Read Clarence Paget’s friendly explanation of my
+recall in the House of Commons.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Singapore,
+Sept.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Found Charlie Grant, wife and child, going to
+Sarawak.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with the Blundells—their daughters, Jane
+and Anne, particularly nice girls.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Emperor</span> steam yacht in the Roads requiring a
+foremast—time for her to take me to Sarawak and
+return while mast getting ready. Pleasant and convenient
+arrangement. News from India; slight improvement,
+but Delhi still untaken.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Captain Sidney Grenfell, senior officer in Malacca
+Straits, cancelled the orders already given. The
+Emperor of Japan’s yacht is not to go with me to
+Borneo! There is a difference between being <em>in</em> and
+<em>out</em> of office.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Colonel Liardet at the mess of
+21st N.I.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Lord Elgin arrived from Calcutta in <span class='ships'>Ava</span>, P. and
+O. Co’s steamer. Breakfasted with Harvey, meeting
+Greenshields and Paterson, with their wives.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Many good fellows in Lord Elgin’s staff, George
+Fitzroy one of them. Dined at home (Government
+House) to meet Lord Elgin.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Mail in from England. Turnour and Prince
+Victor promoted. I senior captain on the list.
+Many letters of congratulation on Fatshan Creek.
+Met Lord Elgin and party at dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Embarked on board Emperor of Japan’s yacht.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Rounded Taujong Datu. In evening anchored
+off Taujong Poe.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span></p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_011'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_011.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>A Malay Kampong.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak mt2" id="CHAPTER_LXVIII">
+    CHAPTER LXVIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Sarawak—India—England</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1857.
+Sarawak,
+Sept.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Piloted the yacht as far as the Quop. Up in the
+gig to Sarawak. How altered! Extended but not
+improved in appearance. Miss the attap roofs; tiles
+look heavy. Miss the jungle, and, most of all, the
+Rajah, who is at Brunei.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Brooke Brooke and Charlie Grant are here with
+their wives, and each owns a child. How many happy
+associations of bygone days. Must wait Rajah’s
+return. Dine with the Bishop. Took a stroll in
+the jungle with Alderson’s rifle. Jungle too
+magnificent. Found the walking bad, and the gun
+heavy, to say nothing of the wood-leeches that adhered
+to and feasted off my legs, in spite of my trousers
+being tied like bloomers round the ankles.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Took an early walk over two miles of the road
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>cut through the jungle. Somewhat checked by Chinese
+outbreak. Plenty of wild pig about, but difficult to
+get at.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Went to church. Service performed by Bishop,
+with three assistants. Singing by native Christianized
+children wonderfully good. Young Brooke and I
+dining with the Bishop—a good fellow, without guile
+or humbug.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_012'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_012.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>In Bornean Jungle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Crossed the river to see a man-eating alligator
+just caught, length 12 ft. 6 in. Astonishing the
+ease with which the Malay kris cuts through the
+thick skin between the joints along the neck and tail
+of the brute. Started with Charlie Grant, Alderson,
+and Watson in an excursion up the river by <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+tide.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Grant having put us up in his bungalow, where he
+is about to build a fort and assume the command of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>that district, we started in afternoon on our deer-shooting
+excursion, getting as far as the Singy Hill
+Dyaks, where we slept in their “scullery.” Unclean
+animals these Dyaks.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>A forenoon walk took us some four or five miles
+to a hut near the
+deer ground. In
+afternoon, before
+sunset, we went out
+in two parties. Saw
+some large red deer;
+stalked near and
+shot a doe.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_013'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_013.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Whampoa.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Long walk of
+ten miles in the
+hottest sun, and
+roughest ground.
+Back to boat. On
+arrival at bungalow,
+heard of
+Rajah’s return to
+his capital. Started
+alone after dinner
+for Sarawak to join
+him. Found Brooke
+in great force;
+nearly five years
+since we met; he
+altered, but not so
+much as I expected, considering smallpox and what
+else he has gone through.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Embarked on board the <span class='ships'>Sir James Brooke</span> on
+return to Singapore. Farewell, Sarawak. May you
+prosper as you so well deserve!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived in Singapore. Governor being absent at
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>Penang, put up at Whampoa’s, and how comfortable
+the good fellow made me!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Waited on by a deputation of the merchants to
+invite me to an entertainment. Grand dinner given
+by the residents at the London Hotel. Their kindness
+preventing my responding as I wished.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Afternoon agreeably passed at Angus’s small
+bungalow, where Whampoa, “Thomas,” Briggs, and
+Harrison dined.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Napier. Anniversary of his wedding,
+at which I was present thirteen years ago.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Mail steamer coming in, decided on going on.
+Find myself on flag list, also recommended for the
+K.C.B. 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, embarked on board <span class='ships'>Cadiz</span>, mail
+steamer.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Penang,
+Oct.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>1.40 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, arrived at Penang. Dined with old
+friend Lewis, having called on Blundell and the
+recorder, Sir Benson Maxwell. On board at 6;
+<span class='ships'>Cadiz</span> under weigh.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Galle,
+Oct.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Galle before 8 o’clock. Took rooms
+on shore, but as the P. and O. agent was not inclined
+to let us proceed by way of Bombay without extra
+payment, accepted an offer to go to Bombay in <span class='ships'>Madras</span>
+hired transport. Packed up and off again by sunset.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Every attention paid to our comfort on board
+<span class='ships'>Madras</span>. Captain Jenkins of the Indian Navy most
+kind.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, came to in Bombay Harbour.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">India,
+Oct.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Landed after breakfast, having received an invitation
+to take up my abode with Captain and Mrs.
+George Wellesley, he in charge of the Bombay
+Marine. They had a sweet little girl I called the
+“Râni.” Sir Hugh Rose was here on his way to
+the Mutiny, having already been home since the
+Crimea. He was staying with the Governor, Lord
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>Elphinstone, on the hills at Matheran, where I joined
+them later. Came up, too, with our invalided Doctor
+Crawford, who found his brother here, a magistrate,
+with whom I had a good dinner. We went by train
+to see the wonderful elephant caves with fittings that
+date two thousand years before the birth of our
+Saviour.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Kindly welcomed by Lord Elphinstone. So glad
+to have a few days with Hugh Rose. Pleasant
+party, consisting of Captain Colborn and staff.
+Climate delightful. Blankets pleasant. No mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>At breakfast appeared remainder of staff, Doctor
+Peel and Colonel Bate. Rode with Governor in cool
+of evening. Such varied and magnificent scenery!
+Rode some eight miles without a hill!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Early ride in other direction with Colonel Russell.
+Matheran such a nice place. Found Harry Parker
+located on the hill with wife and two children; he
+came to ride and dine.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bombay,
+Nov.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Returned by 8.30 train to Bombay. Wellesley
+and I to dine with Commander Jenkins and officers
+of Indian Marine.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Wellesley and I to call on Governor. Among
+letters by the mail, received the following from my
+brother-in-law Stephenson.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Rooksbury, Fareham, Hants</span>,</p>
+<p class='center'><i>September 20, 1857</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Harry</span>—You are an Admiral and a K.C.B.;
+that rejoices my heart.</p>
+
+<p>I transcribe for your information what has occurred in
+this matter, as it will please you, in some points.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Copy of
+Letter to
+Lord
+Panmure.</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><i>August 29, 1857.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'>It is with very great reluctance and some pain that I
+request your careful attention to this statement, and that
+you will favour me with an interview.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span></p>
+
+<p>The matter of painful grievance is this—</p>
+
+<p>A public, professional, and personal disparagement, I
+may say <em>dishonour</em>, has been inflicted upon Captain Keppel,
+R.N., in withholding from him the K.C.B. of the Baltic.</p>
+
+<p>There exists at the Admiralty a minute of more than
+twelve years standing, “that he was entitled to the C.B. for
+services performed in the China Seas under Admiral Parker
+and Sir Hugh Gough, G.C.B.”</p>
+
+<p>Keppel gave up the command of the finest ship in the
+navy, <span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, to serve in the trenches. His predecessor,
+Lushington, in the command of the Naval Brigade
+before Sebastapol, upon giving up his command was gazetted
+on the 10th July 1855. “Captain Stephen Lushington, R.N.
+to the K.C.B.”</p>
+
+<p>He was not previously a C.B.</p>
+
+<p>Keppel from that time to the fall of Sebastapol commanded
+that Brigade. The General and the Admiral Commanding-in-Chief
+in their despatches eulogised the services
+of Keppel in the highest terms of praise.</p>
+
+<p>He commanded at the fall of Sebastapol, which was the
+crowning victory of the campaign.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Lyons <em>told me</em> that the French could not have taken
+Sebastapol but for Keppel’s well-directed fire.</p>
+
+<p>His rank of captain is not sufficient excuse. Lushington
+was gazetted as captain, and when the distribution of the
+honours were gazetted there was one captain his senior and
+one his junior K.C.B. (I have had a correspondence with
+Panmure and Sir Charles Wood upon this subject.)</p>
+
+<p>I regret, and it is with painful regret I state it, that I
+can only collect from Wood the “stet pro ratione voluntas,”
+and that not very courteously given—but let that pass.</p>
+
+<p>The Government had an historical name, a great naval
+reputation, in Keppel’s case. I beg to challenge contradiction
+to my statement.</p>
+
+<p>Keppel has added to his naval fame, he ranks among the
+bravest and ablest captains in the British Fleet.</p>
+
+<p>It cannot be said of him that he has received any <em>honour</em>
+for his distinguished services in the chief command of the
+Naval Brigade.</p>
+
+<p>Many officers, when the list was published, and since the
+peace, and the widows of officers who never saw a gun fired,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>have received the K.C.B. who have no claim superior to his;
+do not misunderstand me, that I express any disapprobation
+that such distribution has been made, I only wish to express
+the pain I feel—that services less than his have been considered
+by the Government as deserving of a higher reward.</p>
+
+<p>The Government intends to place before the public men
+deserving of its respect when these honours are conferred.</p>
+
+<p>In giving to the immediate predecessor in the same command
+and before the final victory the K.C.B., and withholding
+it from Keppel, the Government inflicts a stigma on
+Keppel as being unworthy to receive that which is bestowed
+upon his immediate predecessor.</p>
+
+<p>I do assure you that extreme surprise and regret are
+freely expressed by the highest, the ablest, and by a numerous
+body of the navy at this unmerited stigma.</p>
+
+<p>Keppel does not know of my writing this letter to you.
+I have known him from a child. I am deeply pained at the
+publick disparagement.</p>
+
+<p>The recent demonstration at Portsmouth shows the
+estimation in which he is held by both services. Why
+should the Government ignore his merit?</p>
+
+<p>Will you, as an old friend, give me some explanation?</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On 27th August I received the following from
+Panmure:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>“<span class="smcap">My dear Steenie</span>—The only bone between us is
+removed. I have taken the Queen’s pleasure in making
+Harry Keppel K.C.B.—Yours</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr1'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Panmure</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p>God bless you, my dear Harry.</p>
+<p class='pl8'>Ever your most devoted brother,</p>
+<p class='pl16'><span class="smcap">Hy. Fred. Stephenson</span>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>[I hope I may be excused for inserting this letter,
+but I can honestly declare that I had forgotten its
+existence until the present moment, 27th June 1898,
+when in turning over a heap of bygone manuscripts
+I came across it by accident.</p>
+<p class='right pr1'>H. K.]</p>
+
+<p class='mt1'><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Took leave of my kind host and hostess. 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>,
+embarked on board <span class='ships'>Madras</span> (P. and O.) hired transport;
+weighed at sunset.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>Left the <span class='ships'>Madras</span> at Suez by rail to Cairo; wheels
+running on inverted iron saucers about five feet in
+diameter. Embarked at Alexandria on board P. and O.
+<span class='ships'>Ripon</span> for Southampton. Among passengers was
+Mrs. Moir, the widow of a doctor who had been
+killed by the mutineers, six hundred miles up country.
+She lost one of her children in her flight, but found
+it at Calcutta in the care of a friend who had picked
+the child up on the road. Lieutenant Campbell was
+also a passenger. He had made a wonderful escape
+from the mutineers at Fyzabad. The mutiny
+and its horrors, hairbreadth escapes of our friends,
+the courage of the English women, and the heroic
+work of Colin Campbell, Henry Havelock, Outram,
+Windham, and many more gallant soldiers, was the
+only subject of conversation on board the steamer.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>On December 6 arrived at Southampton. Joined
+invalid wife at Bognor.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>At Holkham; where we remained until end of
+year.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXIX">
+    CHAPTER LXIX
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">England</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1858.
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>After a few days between brother Edward and friend
+Eyre we arrived in London. Brother Stephenson, as
+deputy-ranger, placed the lodge in Hyde Park at my
+disposal, which exactly suited the poor invalid.
+The approaching wedding of the Princess Royal with
+Prince Frederick William of Prussia caused the early
+winter months to be unusually gay. I hardly like to
+mention the names of those who were kind to me
+under the delusion that I had taken care of their sons
+in China.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Was at the state ball, Buckingham Palace,
+previous to the royal wedding, which took place on
+25th.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Her Majesty, Buckingham Palace.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Rajah Brooke.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>The hunting season was now in full force.
+Having invested with Tilbury for the hire of a
+couple of horses, “Alice” and “General,” with
+groom, at £30 a month, he to replace lame ones;
+off to my nephew Edward Coke, owner of Longford
+in Derbyshire. Determined frost, giving me time
+to examine horses; both appeared well up to my
+weight, and good jumpers.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Wenny Coke put in an appearance. Frost
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>continued the next ten days, making me wish
+Mr. Tilbury had the horses in his own keeping.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Change of wind, but none of weather.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Rode Alice to Ingestre. Kindly welcomed by my
+old friend Shrewsbury. Took up my quarters.
+Walter Talbot staying here. Fine old place this
+Ingestre—peacocks about.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Taken to dine with the High Sheriff, P. Williams,
+at Stafford.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Ditto weather. Rode General with Walter Talbot
+to Bifield, Lord Bagot’s. Cokes there, and Grosvenors—Lady
+Constance, Di Coke, very pretty.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to London.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Admiral Rous, a pleasure often
+enjoyed. His parties were always sporting, I never
+missed a race within reasonable distance. My good
+elder brother could not understand why I was so
+fond of “seeing a fool in red riding after a rogue
+in yellow.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Was getting into the train at Portsmouth, when
+my faithful old coxswain, Spurrier, stopped me with,
+“Think I have found Lord Gilford’s watch.”
+During the two minutes of the train’s starting, he
+explained that last evening his wife was in one of
+the numerous haberdasher shops in Portsea; a well-dressed
+woman came in and wanted a smart yacht
+shirt for her friend. On being shown the usual
+seaman’s shirt, she wanted something much smarter;
+her man had a gold watch and chain that he was
+proud of, and that Admiral Keppel had given him
+a cheque for £10 only a few days before. Poor
+women! how fast their little tongues will run.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter" id="i_021">
+  <img class="h100" src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="">
+  <figcaption>Suspicious Junks.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The giving the cheque I perfectly remember, as
+well as the man I gave it to. To go back for a few
+months before the little affair of the Fatshan Creek.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span>The splendid crew of the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span> were divided
+into cruising boats and captured many suspicious
+Chinese junks, some laden with cargo; but owing to the
+scarcity of interpreters they were generally condemned
+and their property confiscated. In the end the prizes
+amounted to a sum of money: not much, if divided
+among all the ships, but a nice little bonus for the
+captors. On my being promoted and ordered home,
+the captors of strings of pice agreed that I should
+take charge of the money, converted from pice into
+sterling bills, which I was to divide, as I thought
+proper, among the wounded or most deserving characters
+invalided home. A man belonging to my
+wounded boat’s crew was one of the recipients.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving in London I went to Lord Clanwilliam’s
+house in Belgrave Square and ascertained
+the number of the gold chronometer watch he had
+given to his son on leaving England. The bill,
+receipted, was soon found. I then had to find my
+friend Sir Richard Mayne, the Chief of Police.
+He found an intelligent detective, to whom I gave
+my late coxswain’s address at Portsea.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April.</div>
+
+<p>Three days afterwards, leaning over the rails in Hyde
+Park, a suspicious-looking character, whose appearance
+I did not quite approve, rapped me on the shoulder
+and beckoned me to join him. Great was my relief
+when he informed me he had Lord Gilford’s watch.
+Getting him to accompany me to Belgrave Square,
+on the way he informed me that he had gone to
+Spurrier’s house; they went together to the shop
+where the girl had bought the shirt, but they had
+seen no more of her. Walking back, although dusk,
+Mrs. Spurrier spotted the girl on the opposite side of
+the street. The detective accidentally placed himself,
+in a way they have, and seeing a respectable girl
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>asked if she had relations in the Navy—the Admiralty
+had sent him down to seek proper objects for employment.
+I need not say that in a few minutes he had the
+state and condition of the man with the yacht shirt.
+His respectable parents lived on the Isle of Wight,
+etc. The next day detective found his way to the
+parents’ house and had an interview. On his way back
+he met Jack in the best of spirits rolling along; after a
+few minutes’ talk the detective abstracted the watch
+saying, “No. 8471: the one I was looking for.”
+Two assistants crossed over from the opposite side.
+By this time we were at Belgrave Square. Lord
+Clanwilliam much pleased; also poor Lady Clanwilliam,
+who was an invalid, but her pleasure was
+followed by distress as to what would become
+of the poor wounded man. I proposed to her
+Ladyship that I should return the watch to the
+poor fellow and her regrets for the trouble she
+had given him! When I got below, the detective
+told me that the man would be brought up
+before the magistrates on the Wednesday following.
+If no witnesses appeared he would be discharged.
+A tenner from Lord Clanwilliam to the detective
+ended the business. Curious that a watch stolen in
+China, April 20, 1857, should have been recovered
+by a detective in Portsea in the same month of this
+year.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Visit to Lord George Lennox at his “Bleak
+House,” Southsea. While there, was invited to the
+charming Goodwood for a few days.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>At United Service Club we entertained the Duke of
+Malakoff at dinner. The <span class='ships'>Raleigh’s</span> crew had meanwhile
+arrived at Chatham. The dog, Mike, in addition
+to his performance at Fatshan, was at the storming
+of Canton, where he had a scaling-ladder to himself
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>and wore two medals. His appearance was enough
+to clear the battery; the Chinamen fled, except those
+stopped by bullets. Lord Lansdowne was fond of
+dogs as well as music. At his request had Mike
+brought up from Chatham, and he was much admired.
+He had been given me by Captain Michael Quin,
+hence his name, who was paying off while <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>
+was fitting out at Plymouth. Mike was unhappy
+away from a ship. He was returned to Chatham,
+and attended working parties on shore: I had not
+the heart to remove him. The months April, May,
+and June brought me into a society to which I had
+been unaccustomed. Although I enjoyed it, it
+hardly comes within a sailor’s life.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Attended Her Majesty’s ball.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>As the following is copied from an old engagement
+book and can interest near relations only, I
+advise my readers to skip this and try next chapter.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>My pretty niece Annie Garnier married Colonel
+Edward Newdigate.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Cheery dinner at “The Ship,” Greenwich—Admiral
+Milne, James Blyth, Charles Eden, and Colonel
+F. Campbell.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Dined, Skinner’s Company.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Lady Palmerston’s evening.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Duchess of Richmond.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Lady Downs.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Dinner with Merchant Taylors.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Sir John Thorolds. Evening, Duchess
+of Norfolk.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>70 Cranbury Park for Bibury Races, with Tom
+Chamberlain. Have not time to describe the place
+here, but in it were four beautiful pictures by
+Romney of Lady Hamilton. Chamberlain’s son
+was in the Balaklava charge. On the retreat his
+horse was shot under him. He quietly took the
+saddle off, put it on his head for a protection, and
+calmly walked into camp. My sister Caroline, who
+was staying with her father-in-law at Bishopstoke,
+wrote me about a pretty cottage for sale. On my
+arrival there I found a small sylph swinging on the
+entrance gate, a daughter of Mr. Peter Wells. I
+bought the place, with some good Italian furniture,
+for £1500. There was a full-length picture by
+Swenton of a beautiful lady, occupying one end of
+the dining-room: this was the mother of my young
+friend Zöe on the gate (now Lady Brougham and
+Vaux). The lady was one of a handsome family,
+such as artists delighted in; the background of the
+picture was of trees, painted at Windsor Forest.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Fred Gye, lessee of the Royal Italian
+Opera, Covent Garden. At his charming house
+near the Thames one met a varied society—Prince
+Leiningen, Prince and Princess Victor of Hohenlohe,
+the Countess Gleichen, Meyerbeer, statesmen, authors,
+painters, singers, actors: it was indeed a cheery
+centre. After dinner we always adjourned for dessert
+to a glass room 120 feet long, delightfully cool in
+summer, flowers and plants growing; the ladies left
+the table to sit further away in this same room. Gye
+used to give me passes to the theatres. I was one
+night arranging baskets of flowers between banks,
+where fairies were supposed to be resting, when the
+curtain suddenly ran up faster than I could get to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>the wings. But though he was a stern disciplinarian
+“behind,” Gye forgave me.</p>
+
+<p>Poor Gye’s terrible fate is fresh in my memory.
+He was shot accidentally while on a visit to Lord
+Dillon, and died near the covert side: sportsman
+that he was, he always wished to be buried in one.
+His sons have all made their mark. The eldest,
+whom we used to call the “Baron,” married Madame
+Albani and went on with operatic management.
+Percy is a judge. Herbert went into the Navy
+and served on the China station under me in 1869.
+Another son was in the Artillery. His daughter,
+Clara, I often see.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Lord Alfred Churchill.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Evening, Lady Palmerston. Dinner, Sir Anthony
+Rothschild.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Balls at Duchess of Hamilton’s and Lady Caroline
+Maxe’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Sir William Middleton. Evening, Lady
+Pigot’s. During summer had been improving my
+pretty, but small place at Bishopstoke, on the bank
+of the river Itchen. The place suited me down to
+the ground. The stabling, which I rebuilt, was perfection.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Dinner with Mr. Newdigate at Blackheath.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Dinner at Navy Club, entertaining First Lord.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Luncheon, Duchess of Somerset. Dined with
+Lord Methven.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Dinner with Duke of Newcastle. Evening party,
+Duchess of Manchester.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Review at Aldershot.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Lady Mayoress’s reception.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Luncheon with Ranelagh. Dinner, Lord Sandwich.
+Evening, Lady Jersey.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Early dinner, Lady de Clifford. Later to
+Cremorne Gardens.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Lunch, Lady Shelley.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Dinner Admiral Walcott. Party Lady Rokeby,
+and ball at Duchess of Wellington’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Cherbourg,
+Aug.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Among friends I always received kind welcome on
+board Sir Thomas Whichcote’s schooner yacht <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>.
+Towards the end of the season I was with
+him at Cherbourg, where we had gone to witness the
+Naval Fêtes, and the inauguration of the new railway.
+Her Majesty and the Prince Consort arrived on the 4th
+August, accompanied by Lords of the Admiralty and
+a brilliant staff. Received by the Emperor Napoleon
+III. and Empress Eugenie. The next morning, at
+breakfast time, I took up the newspaper and read
+the sudden death on 30th July, at the Earl of Fife’s
+Seat, of my beloved brother-in-law, Stephenson.</p>
+
+<p>To be alone in my grief, I landed and strolled by
+the side of the road up the hill to the high ground.
+As if to distract my thoughts, I met a French
+cavalry regiment marching up, their brass band playing
+“Rule Britannia.” Was off by the 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+steamer to join my poor sister Mary, who with her
+children was staying at Folkestone. The death had
+indeed been sudden, heart complaint, while sitting up
+in bed.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sept.</div>
+
+<p>September found me shooting with Sir Thomas
+Whichcote at Ashwarby in Lincolnshire.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby
+Park,
+Sept.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Beautiful day and lots of birds—wild, of course,
+they always are. With our four guns bagged 180
+partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit—making 199 head.
+Whichcote did things well; as kind a host as man
+could have. A good hot luncheon. Ditto dinner.
+Very jolly.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Another fine day. Same party; bagged 204
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit. Haunch of venison
+for lunch and other good things.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby,
+Sept.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Dirty weather with rain. Held up late, but high
+wind. Same party; 131 head of game. Much
+pleased at receiving a letter from Lord Palmerston
+stating he had recommended me to Her Majesty for
+the appointment of Groom-in-Waiting.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Better weather, but high wind. Still lots of birds.
+Same four guns; 200 partridges, 17 hares, 1 rabbit—218
+head! Finish to four good days’ sport, to say
+nothing of the evening meal.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Party breaking up. Freke and I in dogcart to
+Lincoln. I to London.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Up from Portsmouth. Put up at Westbourne
+Terrace. There had been some cases of smallpox
+near my chambers. Wandered about. Tabooed for
+fear of infection.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>By 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> train to Bishopstoke. Found sister
+Caroline and family at the Dean’s. Forgot all about
+the smallpox and embraced the children!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Busy rearranging Bishopstoke.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>By afternoon train to Southsea. Received by
+George Lennox at Bleak House. Party to dinner.
+The good George Greys, etc.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Went over to Ryde by 12 o’clock boat. Back
+with George Lennox to see the Michael-Seymours
+before dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>By 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> train to Bishopstoke. Dean off
+again to Rooksbury. Sleep to-night in our own
+cottage.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>By train to Southampton. Met George Lennox.
+Went on board <span class='ships'>Pasha</span>, a Sultan’s yacht, very gaudy.
+On board <span class='ships'>Ripon</span>, starting for Alexandria with
+Indian passengers. George Lennox back with me to
+Bishopstoke.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>George Lennox off to Portsmouth, and I to Sir
+Francis Barings at Stratton. Found Pelhams and
+Nevilles. Tom Baring and wife.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Should have had some good shooting had the
+leaves been off the trees. Six guns; 110 head.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>George Lennox and I in Gilman’s carriage to
+Winchester; great luncheon at the Dean’s. Party
+there. Lord Palmerston from Broadlands. Garniers
+from Rooksbury. Gilman taking us back to Bishopstoke.
+By train to Portsmouth. Put up at George
+Lennox’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Business at Admiralty. Dined with Rodney
+Mundy’s mother; nice cheery old lady.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>By 4.30 train to Godstone. Found Rajah recovering
+from his sad paralytic stroke.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Took early leave of Brooke. Returned to
+Bishopstoke.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Found invitation to dine at Broadlands; unluckily
+for yesterday.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Colliers to dine.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>By 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train to London.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>To Westbourne Terrace. Seconded resolution
+made by Bishop of Oxford on Gospel in China.
+Meeting at Willis’s Rooms. Much amused at Strand
+Theatre. Our Marie Wilton a little darling.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>By Great Western to Berkeley Castle, to Admiral
+Sir Maurice Berkeley. Extraordinary old place.
+Not all the conveniences of modern houses, but made
+up for in association. Castle wall left as knocked
+down by Cromwell.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Mounted by Sir Maurice. Well appointed pack.
+Huntsmen and whips, etc., dressed in yellow
+velveteen. Best run of the season; I mounted on
+“Lord William.” Mrs. Berkeley and Mrs. A’Court
+to dinner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday,
+Dec.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Afternoon, inspected twenty-seven good hunters.
+Hounds out for a walk. Handsome pack.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>By special train. Hounds and all, horses, servants,
+etc., to Gloucester. Meet about five miles beyond.
+Mounted on Pearce’s small black horse. Good
+hunter.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Capital mount by Armytage on one of his “jobs”
+from Carey. First-rate run and I in good position
+throughout. Baring of Cheltenham arrived.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Baring, Armytage, and I hedgerow shooting.
+Sport not much. Mrs. and Miss Canning arrived;
+very tall. Mrs. Berkeley charming.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Shooting to-day something more like; plenty of
+foxes too.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Mount again on Pearce’s little black horse.
+Carried me right well throughout a longish day, one
+fall into a lane. Have greatly enjoyed my visit to
+Berkeley Castle.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>By early train to get across to Peterboro’ and Huntingdon.
+On a visit to Hinchingbrook. Colonels
+Knox and Vyse and wife, Annie Lady Montagu,
+and niece Emily Leeds, etc.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Shooting order of the day. Six guns; 189 head.
+Duke of Manchester good shot. The charming
+Duchess came to dine.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Mounted by Lord Sandwich to meet Lord Fitz-William’s
+hounds. Fog too thick to draw a fox.
+Provoking—uncommon well mounted. The Manchesters
+left.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Up early, mounted by Lord Sandwich, to breakfast
+at Kimbolton. Lord Cowper there. To meet the
+Oakley. Did not find till late. Left to ride 22
+miles home.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Mounted by Sandwich to meet the Cambridgeshire.
+Nasty wooded country. Foxes, but no getting away.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>Rode to station and returned to London by 1.30.
+Dined with Rokeby. Met the Manchesters.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>By 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train to Bishopstoke; lost my purse
+between station and home, containing £9: 10s.
+Horrid bore!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Spent Christmas at Bishopstoke.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXX">
+    CHAPTER LXX
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">England—Groom-in-Waiting</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1859.
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Saw the New Year in at the Southampton Yacht
+Club House with George Lennox, having dined on
+board Turner’s yacht.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Received enclosed:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>(<span class="smcap">Copy.</span>)</p>
+
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'>
+  <span class="smcap">Broadlands</span>, <i>18th January 1859</i>.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Admiral Keppel</span>—If you should happen
+to be disengaged on Thursday, would you come over to us
+on that day and stay and help to beat a cover on Friday.—Yours
+sincerely,</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr1'>
+  (Signed) <span class="smcap">Palmerston</span>.
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>To Broadlands.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>At Broadlands, shooting.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with the Gilmans, meeting my old friend
+Pereira of Dent’s House, Hong-Kong.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Wife and I by train to Winchester. The good
+Dean sending to meet us. Party to dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>To Winchester to appeal against property being
+assessed at £80, when it was £50. Gained appeal.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+Feb.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Augustus Leeds brought over the sad news of
+Lady Sandwich’s sudden death. Sad indeed!
+Planted a couple of deodars on bank of river.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Train to Winchester. Dean entertaining judges
+and grand jury at dinner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">London,
+Mar.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Dressed at my tailor’s; attended Her Majesty’s
+levée.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>By train to Sleaford and Ashwarby—Whichcote
+sending for me. Got two hunters from Percival at
+Lincoln. Welby to stop.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby,
+Mar.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Meet the Duke of Rutland’s hounds at Haverholm,
+occupied by the Dowager Lady Winchilsea,
+the beautiful Fanny Rice. Short runs with two
+foxes. Bad scenting day; ground dry and hard.
+Got one cropper!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>No hunting. After luncheon another walk.
+Looked over ground, where some rasping jumps had
+been taken.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Marquis of Tweeddale kindly placed his horses at
+my disposal.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Hounds met at Glinn, Welby’s place. The
+Drummonds and many friends there. Killed two
+foxes; but a bad scenting day.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Meet at Fulbeck—Reverend Fane’s. Rode
+Percival’s horse, wilful brute; though a good
+jumper.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Meet at Turner’s. Mount from Lord Tweeddale,
+in addition to my Percival; a short run in afternoon.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Took leave of Tom Whichcote, etc. He appears
+to have everything a man could wish.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at North Creake for wedding. Miss
+North and her sister Catherine, and their cousin, Sara
+North, splendid girl of seventeen.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">North
+Creake,
+Mar.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Party increased by George and Augusta Keppel.
+Twenty-two to dinner. Everything well arranged.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Auspicious day arrived—sun shining, fourteen
+bridesmaids. Edward performed. Stand-up breakfast,
+seventy or eighty attending.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>General dispersion. Took up abode with Astleys:
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>she charming. Two Miss Lee-Warners and Bobby
+Hammond to dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Mounted by Astley with Lord Hastings’ harriers:
+very good fun. Mrs. Astley’s riding first-rate:
+she does everything well.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Train to Diss. Met there by brother Edward.
+Dogcart to Quidenham; friend Edward and Mrs.
+Eyre to meet me at dinner.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">London,
+Mar.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Eyre and wife taking me to Harling Station. To
+London. Dressed at Four Swans, and dined at
+Fishmongers’ Hall. Had to return thanks for the
+Navy. Put up at friend Dunn’s, Lowndes Square.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Clarence Paget.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>By 11 train, meeting Mark Wood at King’s Cross.
+To Grantham. Walked to Syston. Party, Lord
+and Lady Middleton, two Miss Reynardsons, Miss
+Beaumont and brother, Reynardson, Wood, Gibbs,
+Hillyard and his wife, Cole, Fox, and Whichcote.
+Jolly. Cook, first-rate.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>A regular fall of snow. Party hunting nevertheless.
+Grantham Hunt Ball good fun. Went with
+the Misses Fane.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Great meet of the Belvoir Hounds; with
+Thorolds in their brougham. Mounted on a roarer,
+saw part of a very good run.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Croxton Park Races. Show of vehicles from
+Syston. Box seat with Reynardson on his drag.
+Races fair, and weather as usual. Bitter cold. Picked
+up £15.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Finish to an agreeable week at Syston.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>I never had time to attend to politics, but born of
+a Whig family throw in my chance with kind friend
+and honest politician, Sir Francis Baring. Stood with
+him for Portsmouth. After a week’s chaffing and
+riotous living, I found myself at bottom of poll! The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>difference between Whig and Tory now: one is dead,
+and the other extinct!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>At Lord Denbigh’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>With Dunne and party to the great Derby race.
+Won by Hawley’s “Musjid.” Dressed and went to
+Her Majesty’s concert.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>On return from Epsom found at club telegraphic
+message of my wife’s sudden illness. Arrived at
+Bishopstoke 11 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> The poor wife had a fit at 6;
+unconscious since.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>A succession of fits during the day. My true
+friend Eyre here in answer to telegraph.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Georgina Crosbie arrived in evening an hour
+before the sad end.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>What could I have done without friend Eyre?</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>The last sad ceremony performed by the Dean of
+Winchester in the Parish Church. Her brother
+William and two sisters, my clergyman brother,
+Edward and Reverend Edward Eyre attended, and
+the good Rajah Brooke had a bouquet laid on the
+coffin.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Welcome to Larling from friend Eyre.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>At Quidenham Parsonage with Edward.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Misfortunes never come singly. From Bombay
+hear of Sussex Stephenson’s serious illness.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXI">
+    CHAPTER LXXI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">In Waiting</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1859.
+Osborne,
+Sept.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>First appearance as Groom-in-Waiting at Osborne.
+Her Majesty, with the Prince Consort, had gone to
+Balmoral, leaving the younger Royal children, Prince
+Leopold and Princess Beatrice, in charge of Lady
+Caroline Barrington. Never was an Admiral who
+felt so proud of being a groom. Lady Caroline came
+of a stately family. As we walked into dinner I felt
+myself smaller than I really was.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sept. to
+Oct.</div>
+
+<p>Carriages and steamers were at her ladyship’s
+disposal; it was interesting to see how quickly
+the charming young Prince learned to acknowledge
+the sentries’ salutes as we passed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Delightful as the land excursions were in that
+beautiful island, I felt more at ease when her ladyship
+proposed a trip on board the <span class='ships'>Fairy</span> steam-yacht commanded
+by my friend D. Welch, who handled her as if
+she had been a jolly-boat. We went into Southampton
+Docks at a pace which puzzled me. Lady Caroline
+kindly proposed a trip in carriages up to my pretty
+cottage at Bishopstoke, where I had the honour of
+providing tea. H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent was
+residing at Norris Castle. Lady Caroline and myself
+went three evenings in the week to make up a rubber
+of whist. H.R.H. was the only person who always
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>lost. We were paid in the brightest shillings,
+polished for the occasion.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>My term of waiting was only too soon over; I
+was relieved by Colonel Cavendish.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Windsor
+Castle,
+Dec.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>I was again in waiting at Windsor Castle, having
+relieved Colonel Kingscote. Adjoining me were
+Captain du Plat, Equerry to the Prince Consort;
+and Captain George Henry Grey, Equerry to the
+Prince of Wales; these young men were old friends
+and agreeable companions. I took my two hunters
+and put them up at Windsor. Everything was new
+and interesting to me. Late, when we retired, my
+friends the Equerries kindly came to my room to
+enjoy their smoke. In the mornings we used to
+assemble in the corridor, and there wait for orders,
+riding, shooting, or whatever was going on.</p>
+
+<p>One morning the Equerries were wanted to attend
+H.R.H., while I had permission to amuse myself, which
+I did by a ride in Windsor Great Park. It appeared
+that the Prince Consort, having bought some pictures
+in London, wanted a fit place to hang them. Passing
+through the Equerries’ rooms, H.R.H. came to mine.
+I was, as stated, out riding. The Prince immediately
+smelt smoke, and remarked, “The little Admiral told
+me he did not smoke.” My friends only smiled,
+H.R.H. was never undeceived! Once, when riding
+was the order of the day, I rode my best hunter.
+On crossing one of the streams, the Prince of Wales
+proposed that I should try my horse over the river
+instead of the bridge. I got over, but my horse
+made an over-reach and struck my right heel, which
+gave me pain. It was in 1840, when my father
+was Master of the Horse, that a boy was found
+concealed in a room adjoining Her Majesty’s. Since
+then, it had been the custom, when Her Majesty
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>was about to retire, for the Groom-in-Waiting to
+precede, and see the coast clear. My foot gave me
+pain, and I had taken up a spot in advance, when
+these horrid Equerries, whom I had not forgiven
+about the smoke, picked me up, and having planted
+me in the right place, disappeared. I made a proper
+bow when Her Majesty passed, and almost forgave
+my playfellows about the smoke! The Prince
+Consort had introduced the Christmas Tree, and
+we used to dance the Old Year out and the New
+Year in, to the tune of the “Old English.” When
+the clock struck twelve, the band suddenly struck
+up “God Save the Queen.” Everybody was very
+hot, and everybody kissed his partner except myself.
+I had the honour of dancing with Her
+Royal Highness the Princess Louise.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXII">
+    CHAPTER LXXII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Cape Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1860.
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>At Windsor Castle. Ladies-in-Waiting—Lady
+Caroline Barrington, Hon. Mrs. Bruce, and Lady
+Ely, while the Maids of Honour were Hon. Beatrice
+Byng and Hon. Emily Cathcart.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Shooting with the Prince Consort were the Prince
+of Wales and Duke of Cambridge, while in attendance
+were Colonel F. H. Seymour, Major-General
+Hon. R. Bruce, Captain George Grey, Colonel Clifton,
+and myself. Earl de Grey was of the party.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Finished my turn in waiting by hunting with the
+Prince Consort’s harriers.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>To Berkeley Castle. Kind welcome from Sir
+Maurice and Lady Charlotte.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Hounds met at Sir G. Jenkins’s, who gave me a
+good breakfast. Woodland country; plenty of foxes
+killed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Wild-goose shooting: novel and interesting, but
+hard work.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Hunted from Berkeley Castle. Colonel “the
+giant” in great force.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Daily hunting; foxes often found in trees!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>My appointment to Cape command. By rail to
+London; put up with sister Mary Stephenson.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span>, commissioned by Captain E. Turnour;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>Commander V. C. Buckley joined. Officers and
+men joined by end of week. Ship being manned by
+drafts from various ports; not allowed to enter seamen
+for ourselves.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Sunset, hoisted flag, white at mizzen.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Saluted flag of Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral
+Edward Harvey. Issued contract; made clothing
+according to recent regulations, hats included: a
+mistake.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">March.</div>
+
+<p>Had some difficulty in getting Admiralty to
+exchange the heavy old launches for the new forty-foot
+pinnaces which are now supplied to all other
+ships. Considerable difference in the stowage of this
+ship and that of the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Joined Marquis of Queensberry, naval cadet, and
+Mr. Stephenson, mid. Dockyard people building a
+small poop for the accommodation of the captain,
+secretary and flag-lieutenant—the poop not to
+show above the hammock netting, and not to occupy
+more of upper deck than just abaft the after gun.
+Screw to be raised as in line-of-battleships: the best
+arrangement under all circumstances that could be made.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Cabins had already been fitted for the conveyance
+of Sir George Grey and staff. An order to prepare
+cabins for Lady Grey and maid, coming so late,
+deprived me of half my accommodation.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>In consequence of Her Majesty’s kind consideration,
+attended at Windsor as Groom-in-Waiting.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Windsor,
+April 5.</div>
+
+<p>Attended confirmation of Prince Alfred. Lord
+George Lennox as Lord of Bedchamber to the
+Prince Consort.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span> left Sheerness for Spithead. Cheered by
+the Norfolk Militia.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Prince of Wales left for the Continent, attended
+by Hon. R. Bruce and Captain George Grey.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>My little happy holiday over, Her Majesty
+kindly hoping to see me back. Rejoined <span class='ships'>Forte</span>
+at Spithead and rehoisted flag. Salutes exchanged
+with Admiral Commander-in-Chief Wm. Bowles, C.B.
+Was informed that on way round from Sheerness a
+leak was discovered in the screw aperture.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;;16.</div>
+
+<p>Steamed into harbour; secured alongside <span class='ships'>Sultan</span>
+hulk. Transported guns forward and all heavy
+weight to discover the leak.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Ship taken into steam basin, preparatory to being
+docked. In taking her in, dockyard people managed
+to carry away jib-boom. No smoking allowed;
+shifted ship’s company to <span class='ships'>Victorious</span> hulk.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Hauled into No. 7 dock, dockyard people stopping
+leak.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Hauled out of basin, only just in time, ship
+hung in entrance. Another two minutes, and she
+must have grounded, as well as two three-deckers.
+Sundry sheets of copper were rubbed off on port
+side. Obliged to heel the ship to repair damage.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Came to at Spithead.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Noon, weighed, running for the Needles.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Plymouth Sound.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Plymouth,
+April 30.</div>
+
+<p>Exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief,
+Vice-Admiral Sir Barrington Reynolds, K.C.B.
+3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, having embarked His Excellency Sir
+George and Lady Grey, Captains Speke and
+Grant, African travellers, friend Boileau, and others,
+weighed and left the Sound.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Funchal Roads, Madeira.
+While steaming in exchanged salutes 13 guns,
+with Flag-Officer Inman, whose flag, blue at the
+mizzen, was flying on board United States corvette
+<span class='ships'>Constellation</span>, the first United States “Officer’s Flag”
+we had seen. Saluted also the Portuguese flag with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>21 guns, and English Consul Erskine on his leaving
+the ship.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Ship was visited by Lord and Lady Fortescue and
+family, also my kind friend of long standing, the
+late Consul, Mr. Stoddard. As soon as they were
+landed, weighed and made sail.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Celebrated Her Majesty’s birthday by a dinner on
+the poop. At 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> that celebrated old beast,
+Neptune, hailed the ship, burning lights, etc., and
+then came on board amidst the usual downfall of
+water, and promised to pay his respects on the morrow
+to all such as had not before passed through his
+dominions, comprising three-fourths of those on
+board. He then took his departure for the night,
+to the relief of some and inconvenience of all, amidst
+fire and water-works, the light of his car being
+visible astern for an hour afterwards.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>His Oceanic Majesty came on board and performed
+the usual ceremony.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Steamed into Rio de Janeiro harbour.
+Returned salute from <span class='ships'>Madagascar</span>. While running
+in, and after coming to, had to return and exchange
+no end of salutes. Brazilian Flag, 21 guns;
+Admiral’s salute, 13; French man-of-war brig, 13;
+and Prussian Commodore, 13.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Rio,
+June&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Passengers disembarked and proceeded to Petropolis.
+<span class='ships'>Tribune</span>, 31, Captain Geoffrey Hornby, arrived
+from Pacific and exchanged salutes.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Passengers returned. Weighed and stood out of
+Rio harbour.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>12.5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Henry Hill, seaman, fell overboard
+while the ship was going 10 knots under sails and
+steam. Cutter fitted with Clifford’s admirable
+apparatus for lowering was down in the shortest
+time and the man saved.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span></p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_043'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_043.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption><span class='ships'>Forte</span> at Rio.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>An untoward event occurred during the first
+watch. Under extreme pressure from Captain
+Turnour and the surgeon, who stated that the
+Governor would either commit suicide or murder his
+wife, I consented to return to Rio Janeiro, and
+reached that port on the evening of the 12th. Next
+morning, having landed the Governor, Lady Grey,
+and maid, sent an officer to know when His
+Excellency would be ready to embark. He sent
+word he was then ready, and that if I would not
+write home what had occurred he would not. I
+kept <em>my</em> word.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Sailed, and arrived at Simon’s Bay on 4th July,
+8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> His Excellency was in such a hurry to
+convey to Admiral Sir Frederick Grey the fact of his
+arrival, that, unseen, he dropped himself into a shore
+boat and landed at Admiralty House.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Simon’s
+Bay,
+July&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Landed, after usual salutes, to pay respects to
+Admiral Sir F. Grey. I mentioned the Governor’s
+message to me at Rio, to the effect that if I would
+not write home what had occurred he would not. I
+ascertained that in his statement to Sir Frederick he
+made out that the proposition not to communicate
+home came, in the first place, from me to him.
+This untruth accounts for my subsequent treatment.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Forte</span> requiring a thorough refit, shifted flag
+to my friend Captain Algernon de Horsey’s ship, the
+<span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, and with our travellers, Speke and Grant,
+prepared to visit the East Coast.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXIII">
+    CHAPTER LXXIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Cape Command—Flag in <span class='ships'>Brisk</span></span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1860.
+Monday,
+July&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Embarked with Flag-Lieutenant and Secretary.
+Hoisted flag on board <span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, Captain Algernon de
+Horsey. Received with yards manned. Embarked
+Captains Speke and Grant, with his guard of 100
+Hottentots, volunteers from the Cape Mounted
+Rifles; also 12 mules, the Cape Parliament having
+voted £300 to purchase them for the interesting
+expedition. Sailed at sunset, leaving <span class='ships'>Forte</span> with
+Captain Turnour in charge. Rounded to on signal.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in 9-1/2 fathoms off the mouth of
+Buffalo River. The township of East London on the
+south entrance composed of storehouses and other
+new and neat-looking buildings. At the end of a
+substantial stone wharf stands a lighthouse to correspond—not
+mentioned in the charts; it showed a bright
+fixed light. The town is communicated with by a
+surf boat hauled to and fro over the bar by means
+of a hawser, one end of which is attached to an anchor
+outside; as uninviting a coast to approach as can be
+imagined. Should a railway or any good road for the
+conveyance of the produce of the country be established
+to Algoa Bay, the Port of East London may
+prove unworthy of the name it has assumed. At
+5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> weighed, proceeded under sail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>No observation yesterday, but those of to-day
+at noon showed that the current for the last 48 hours
+had been south-west. 97 miles. Proceeded making
+particular survey of coast.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Came to at 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, in the magnificent Bay of
+Delagoa, about 7 miles from the entrance of the river.
+Sent a boat in to communicate: but more to ascertain
+what might be doing in the slave way.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Shefeen
+Island,
+July&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Landed at daylight on the Island of Shefeen;
+more for the purpose of hauling the seine than
+shooting; nevertheless took my Whitworth rifled
+carbine. Observing along the sand prints of a small
+cloven foot, which I took to be that of the pig, Algie
+Heneage and I struck into the bush; stunted trees,
+but in places tolerably clear underneath. At first
+there was little to attract our attention beyond
+sundry paroquets and an occasional pigeon, for the
+destruction of which we were not prepared.</p>
+
+<p>I fired once at some distance at what I imagined to
+be rabbits, playing about at the edge of the jungle, but
+they were too nimble for me. It was while on our
+return towards the beach, where we expected a breakfast
+of fresh-caught fish, that a beautiful antelope
+bounded across our path. It was large for an
+animal of that species, a dark reddish-brown colour.
+I was now satisfied that the numerous footprints that
+we had seen were not pig, but those of deer. The
+jungle being too thick for us to beat, or even see
+many yards into, proposed that we should conceal
+ourselves in any likely-looking shady spot, with
+sufficient clear range for a fair shot.</p>
+
+<p>The ground was dry and the air clear of mosquitoes.
+We had been quiet for about a quarter of
+an hour, when I observed an antelope approaching,
+apparently unconscious of danger, nibbling the bits
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>of herb or grass that grew up between the dead
+leaves, when within twenty paces of our position
+it stopped to feed, broadside towards us. It was
+a full-grown doe. I observed her pretty head with
+its beautiful large black eye, and not wishing to
+spoil what I intended to have stuffed as a trophy, I
+raised my rifle and aimed, so as to hit her just
+behind the shoulder. Heneage was ready, knife
+in hand, to cut her throat, when I pulled the
+trigger; the lock snapped, and in a moment my
+beauty bounded into the jungle. I had forgotten
+to put a cap on; the rifle was a breechloader, to
+which I was hardly accustomed. Our disappointment
+can well be imagined.</p>
+
+<p>We remained a short time longer in the same spot,
+hardly hoping that anything else would come near us.
+Now these antelopes, with their spindle legs and tiny
+feet, make no noise, but on looking in the direction
+I observed a whole troop of small monkeys, whose
+curiosity had brought them to ascertain who the
+intruders were who had so disturbed the quiet of
+their domain. They had spread themselves over
+some width of ground, and were advancing with all
+the caution of so many diminutive riflemen. When
+within about fifty yards one of those in advance
+made us out and gave notice.</p>
+
+<p>They came to “general halt,” which was followed
+by a general chatter, and I could observe each small
+round head peeping from behind the stump of bush
+or tree where it had taken shelter. Theirs were little
+black faces, surmounted by a white fringe, which
+somewhat resembled the frill of a woman’s cap. The
+body was green, belly white, and tail long; however,
+as they did not appear inclined to make a further
+advance, sent a bullet at the head of one who appeared
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>to have the command, and I was glad to find that I
+had only struck the stump of the bush behind which
+he had concealed his active little carcass.</p>
+
+<p>Their curiosity having been gratified, they scampered
+away on all fours, chattering and closing
+together as they went along. We never saw them on
+either bushes or trees, which caused me to think that
+those small things were the same sort I had a distant
+shot at in the morning, and must have been monkeys
+and not rabbits.</p>
+
+<p>We soon shifted our berth some little distance to
+a spot affording a tolerable range, considering the
+denseness of parts of the jungle, and made ourselves
+comfortable, perhaps too much so, as after a while I
+started from a reverie to a pinch from Algie, and
+from the quarter pointed at could just see the round
+red back of an antelope moving towards us. I held
+in my breath as it approached. Unfortunately I had
+laid aside my rifle. The motion to lay hold of it was
+sufficient to cause the creature to raise its head, and
+the noise of the loose steel ring on the stock of the
+cavalry carbine made it dash into the bush, where it
+was out of sight in an instant.</p>
+
+<p>It would be useless to describe the number of
+chances we had or the number of deer we might have
+bagged if something had not happened.</p>
+
+<p>Our last chance occurred when we had agreed to
+take up positions on separate mounds, covered with
+brush and stunted trees, two-thirds round, about
+twenty yards in width, round which was a fair open
+space of long grass. In less than half an hour we
+observed a fine antelope come out of the jungle within
+ten yards of where I knew that Algie must be lying.
+It stopped and looked about, and I saw that it was
+about the size of a calf, but with the thinnest legs;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>so delicate and slender as to appear unfit to support
+the round, plump body it had to carry. Watched,
+expecting every moment to see the beautiful creature
+bound into the air and fall to the report of Algie’s
+gun. However, it walked leisurely—stepping a trifle
+lame with the near hind leg—across into the opposite
+bank.</p>
+
+<p>I had my rifle to my shoulder, but Heneage had
+been so kind in allowing me all the former chances,
+I thought it would not be doing the handsome if I
+deprived him of this, the last and only one he would
+have. When I inquired how he had come to allow
+so good an opportunity to pass, I found he had just
+awoke from a pleasant sleep.</p>
+
+<p>We returned on board, amused and interested,
+but having had a blank day, did not boast. De
+Horsey, in pulling up the Tenby river, saw a hippopotamus,
+but he had no gun with him. The Governor
+informed us that there were plenty of rhinoceros as
+well as elephant in the neighbourhood. I noticed a
+magnificent pair of tusks in his room.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXIV">
+    CHAPTER LXXIV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">East Coast Sport</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1860.
+Aug.</div>
+
+<p>After leaving Delagoa Bay it was not much out of
+our way to pass the small island of Europa, said to
+abound in turtle.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Europa
+Island,
+Aug.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>We made it at about 9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on Thursday,
+August 2. The moon was at its full. Although
+a partial eclipse darkened it for a while, by the time
+we were off the north end of the island the moon
+shone out in full splendour. It was thought that
+nothing would be easier than to heave the ship to and
+send a boat in and bring off as many turtle as we
+required. At 10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a party shoved off in the
+cutter, and shortly afterwards Heneage, O’Rorke,
+and self left in the galley.</p>
+
+<p>We found a sea breaking on a reef that bounded
+the coast, but farther to the west the breakers became
+smaller as we got under its lee. A coral reef extending
+along the coast a full half mile from the shore
+was clearly distinguishable. Watching our opportunity
+we got on to shelving coral, it being dead low
+water, and then found that we had a good quarter
+of a mile to haul her over water which varied from
+nothing to six or eight feet with deep holes. However,
+these were made clear by the light of the moon,
+and nothing was left but to haul the boat over, or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>return on board. The water deepened into a comparatively
+clear space between it and the shore,
+forming a sort of lagoon. The boat was easily
+pushed through this, and we landed shortly after
+midnight.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the remainder to light a fire and prepare
+for a night’s bivouac, O’Rorke and self started along
+the beach to the westward to look for turtle.
+Although there were the tracks of many in the
+sand, we had travelled two miles before we came to
+marks that appeared fresh. A large turtle had been
+coquetting about, as is their wont, in search of a fit
+spot in the dry sand to deposit her cargo of eggs.</p>
+
+<p>In this instance, it was evident that the old lady
+had been difficult to please, as after many turns
+and windings the track led again inland; and sure
+enough, ten yards from the beach, then about eight
+inches deep, appeared a small oval-shaped hillock,
+exposed by day to the heat of the sun. It was
+evident, when we got alongside, the turtle was sleeping
+away the time until the rising tide had lifted her
+high enough to allow of her proceeding to sea for
+further amusement.</p>
+
+<p>The first she must have known of our presence
+was by the feel of our hands under the outer edge
+of her shell—a sort of tickling under the ribs—by
+which we endeavoured to turn her on her back.
+This she resented by striking out with all four fins,
+and not only covering O’Rorke with sand and water,
+but sending me sprawling on my back. Luckily she
+was aground.</p>
+
+<p>O’Rorke started into the jungle, returning presently
+with two branches, the best he could get,
+to act as levers, with which to turn her over.
+This was a far more troublesome job than we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>expected. The weight of the brute alone was
+360 lbs., and the strength of the foremost fins
+wonderful; however, after considerable twisting
+and manœuvring we managed, with our levers,
+to get her off side to the edge of a hollow about
+eight feet by six, and with this advantage, and a
+heave together, we turned her over. There she lay
+on her back flapping wet sand, but comparatively
+helpless. The tide was now rising, and there was
+nothing left but for O’Rorke to return to where we had
+left the boat for assistance, leaving me to manage the
+best I could. I suppose I am the first Admiral who
+ever kept the middle watch on a turtle. As the sea
+rose over the outer reef it came rolling in to where I was
+seated, and as each roller lifted my charge she renewed
+her struggles to get rid of me. Our object was to
+keep her head towards the sandy beach, which rose
+rather abruptly, by inserting one end of the lever,
+which was crooked, under her back and behind her
+fore fins when she raised herself up, which she did
+whenever a roller came to her assistance. To prevent
+her floating, I seated myself on her stomach. By these
+means I caused her to heave herself in nearer the
+shore, but in doing this I got so plastered with wet
+sand that I must have had the appearance of a small
+pyramid. At another time she gave me such a slap
+on the knee, I thought my leg was broken; the pain
+was great.</p>
+
+<p>I never had so troublesome a watch; it appeared
+to me O’Rorke had been hours away, although
+the good fellow had run there and back. Having
+to keep 360 lbs. weight struggling to save its
+embryo family from being made into omelets, herself
+into “soups and steaks,” as I saw afterwards
+chalked on her back, was no small undertaking.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span>Nor can I describe my delight when some of the
+boat’s crew hove in sight. Another struggle with
+the brute and I must have given in or have been
+carried out to sea holding on to the hind fins,
+like my friend King George of Tonga Tabu.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_053'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_053.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>My middle watch.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Having secured our turtle, a further walk along
+the sandy beach, a bend to the S.W. brought us
+within reach of unpleasant smells, and close to a
+projecting point, within sight of the remains of a
+huge whale, from which rats, by thousands, were
+rushing towards the jungle; when the crabs, to say
+nothing of conger eels, cleared the bones of the
+monster, they fell to the ground.</p>
+
+<p>We secured several joints of the backbone,
+which, when cleaned and covered with canvas, were
+formed into curious camp stools, in my garden at
+Bishopstoke. How the monster got where we found
+him, over the half-mile of coral-bound coast, we
+wondered; unless the unfortunate brute was thrown
+over the reef and stranded during one of those
+fearful hurricanes which visit these latitudes.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Europa
+Island,
+Aug.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>The shooting was not much. There were some
+goats running wild; the sire of this stock was
+described as a magnificent fellow, with an immense
+beard and strong smell. A few pigeons were seen,
+but so unaccustomed were they to the intrusion of
+human beings as to allow themselves, when fatigued,
+to be chased from bush to bush, knocked over by
+stones or sticks. The frigate birds, some black,
+visit these latitudes.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Aug.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Much excitement was caused at low tide by our men
+chasing, between the openings of the coral, rock cod,
+conger-eels, and parrot fish—the latter of a brilliant
+green colour, some of them weighing four or five
+pounds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Mozambique,
+Aug.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Mozambique Harbour in 5-1/2
+fathoms. A berth that would suit the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>. Care
+to be taken running in, in a long ship. Saluted
+Portuguese flag. Like most Portuguese forts, on
+a grand scale, but the guns are small and out of
+date; about 100 men. A few small vessels at anchor.
+Trade small, principally in ivory, rhinoceros horns,
+and ebony. Slaver in disguise. Was received by
+the Governor, Don Joao Tavares de Almeida, who
+did me the honour of dining with me on board. No
+Consul. One Don Joao de Costa Sourez most
+obliging.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed, made sail.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Having been in these seas before, I cautioned
+Captain de Horsey to keep a good look-out for
+slavers. We were running under sail with light
+southerly winds, and proposed fires being lighted and
+banked up. De Horsey was particular about
+desecrating the Sabbath, but in the afternoon a sail
+was reported. Later she was made out from the masthead
+standing to the eastward. I advised De Horsey
+to take his glass and see for himself.</p>
+
+<p>Before he was half-way up the fore-rigging I gave
+the order to light the fires. The smoke had no
+sooner ascended than the look-out on the fore-top-gallant
+yard sang out, “She’s gone round without
+taking her studding sails in.” The wind fell light
+by sunset. We stopped engines under the stern of
+a fine rakish-looking ship. Lieutenant Adeane was
+sent on board, and took possession of the <span class='ships'>Manuela</span>,
+formerly the <span class='ships'>Sunny South</span>, a Rio packet of upwards
+of 702 tons. She had 846 slaves on board, and was
+waiting to complete 900 before proceeding round
+the Cape to Cuba. She had been hovering off the
+coast for weeks to complete her cargo. We sent her
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>into Pomony. I went on board, she was a fine-looking
+ship, seven feet between decks. However,
+on looking down the fore hatchway, the stench
+was intolerable. Sent prize in charge of Lieutenant
+Burlton to the Mauritius.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXV">
+    CHAPTER LXXV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Zanzibar—Shooting Hippopotami</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1860.
+Aug.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Zanzibar. Having expressed a wish to
+see the hippopotamus in his native state, Speke, being
+aware of my weakness, kindly invited me to accompany
+him to where sport was almost a certainty. It
+was necessary to procure a dhow, on board which a
+party could live.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Our proposed trip soon got wind. An unusual
+noise throughout Sunday night on board the
+Sultan’s yacht was accounted for in the morning
+by one Captain Mahomet informing us, which we
+had been well aware of, viz. that he had been all the
+night bending sails, and half the morning bastinadoing
+his crew; he stated he had received orders to
+convey me across the channel.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>From this infliction I, however, excused myself, as
+well as from that of the company of the half-civilised,
+drunken rogue who commanded her. Through the
+kind influence of Colonel Rigby, Luddah, a Banyan,
+British subject, and head of the Customs, placed at our
+disposal a new dhow, with a captain and fourteen
+Arabs. Hoping to expedite their movements, Speke,
+Heneage, and myself embarked on Monday night,
+so as to start early the following morning; but
+at that time we were not as experienced in Arab
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>movements as we have since been. It commenced
+raining soon after we got on board, and on our
+taking shelter below we found the deck overhead
+leaked, and the stench from the bilge water sickening.
+We got under weigh at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>; at 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> anchored
+in an extensive bay off a village called Kesooku.
+About the bay were shoal patches of sand and
+several small islands with mangrove bushes, over the
+roots of which the tide flowed when up; it was on and
+about these islands that we expected to find our game.</p>
+
+<p>We were welcomed to the village by a Bombay
+Banyan Chief. Having given us a refreshing drink
+from green cocoanuts, he cleared out part of a store
+hut for our accommodation. We made up our beds
+outside on stretchers under the shade of the projecting
+roof.</p>
+
+<p>It appears that the habits of the hippopotami are
+to land at night for food, betaking themselves to
+the retirement of the small islands before break of
+day. Such unwieldy brutes cannot travel on shore
+without leaving marks, by which they are easily
+traced, and generally return to the water by the
+same paths. As they are never molested by the
+natives, we thought we might intercept them before
+they went to rest, and intended to be up at 3 o’clock,
+but it rained and our native servants neglected to
+call us. We went later to try for guinea-fowl, which
+were said to be plentiful and excellent eating. A
+covey of them was seen but not got at.</p>
+
+<p>Our next plan was to proceed to the patches of
+islands in the bay, so as to reach them before low
+water, about which time our experienced friend,
+Speke, considered that the hippopotami would be
+more likely to be caught napping or basking in the
+mud. We approached the islet with caution.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span></p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_059'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_059.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>A right and left shot.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span></p>
+
+<p>I shall not forget the first wild hippopotamus I
+saw: a huge ugly brute, standing up to his middle in
+water, apparently indifferent to our approach, until
+within fifty yards, when he moved leisurely towards
+some rocks where the water was deep and disappeared.
+On rounding the rocks, we opened on an extended
+sand-flat and observed several Sibuko, half in the
+water, with one fine fellow standing separate. To the
+left, and within forty yards of him, was a small clump
+of trees. As soon as our boat grounded, took up my
+position, as prearranged, on that side, and stalking
+under shelter of bushes, got pretty close, with a rest
+for my gun. Speke and Heneage had spread out to
+the right, so as to cut off his retreat that way to the
+sea. Within forty yards, when I thought they were
+quite ready, I fired <em>my first shot</em>. The monster
+seemed more astonished than hurt, although a stream
+of blood from the side of his neck showed where my
+ball had told. While he hesitated, the others broke
+away in a parallel direction to that I was moving in.
+They were close together, the head of the Hippo
+nearest to me being a little in rear of the shoulder of
+his companion. Had my double-barrel smooth-bore
+ready. It does not often fall to the lot of man to get
+right and left shots at a brace of hippopotami. I
+took the nearest; hit him just behind the ears, struck
+the spine, and brought him on his knees. The thick
+skull of the other turned my second ball.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of dropping, as I expected, he took a
+survey of the ground, hesitated a minute, eyed his
+dying chum, and made a rush to the path where I
+stood. With all due deference, I made a move out
+of his way, fell backward, gun going off.</p>
+
+<p>Before I was on my legs I heard Speke’s gun:
+Sibuko had had his quietus. I now seated myself
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>on the root of a tree near where my first Sibuko lay;
+while contemplating the monster, I felt a drop of
+blood on the back of my hand, and looking up, found
+that I had shot the dark native who carried my spare
+ammunition, he having taken refuge when the Hippo
+No. 2 made his charge in my direction. We got the
+poor fellow down, moaning and crying; found the
+ball had passed through the fleshy part of his thigh
+without touching the bone. The next day he was
+taken across to the hospital. After a few days and a
+small donation he was ready and willing to be shot at
+again! The dead Sibuko was given the natives to
+eat: it was curious to see how cleverly they cut the
+flesh, or rather the fat, before taking the skin off,
+beginning at the backbone and cutting straight down
+in strips about four inches square, apparently to me
+of solid fat, and portioned according to the number
+in a greedy family. Of course I retained the head,
+which, with the other, was recovered from the natives
+and buried in the hot sand; after a few days they
+were taken out sweet and clean, the latter operation
+performed by white ants. They now occupy, or
+ought to, a place in the Winchester Museum.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXVI">
+    CHAPTER LXXVI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Zanzibar</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1860.
+Aug.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to Zanzibar; found <span class='ships'>Brisk</span> absent in
+search of a slaver that had landed a man on the
+island who was made prisoner by the Sultan, and
+afterwards sent on board with a request that he
+might be given up to the Spanish Consul.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Brisk</span> returned with the prisoner, who stated himself
+to be the doctor; pretended to know nothing
+about his movements, although he told a different
+story to the slaver’s friend, the Consul of Imperial
+France. Fresh water on the island: good, although
+the streams for watering at inconvenient distances.
+By proper application through Colonel Rigby, our
+obliging Consul, natives, or rather slaves, can be sent
+to bale the water to fill the casks. Fruit and
+vegetables were given for the ship’s company
+daily.</p>
+
+<p>Found the Sultan kind and obliging; he had a
+large stud of arabs, and when he found that I could ride,
+presented me with a couple, whose pedigrees, drawn
+up in Arabic, commenced some eighty years ago. I
+got the good Consul to explain that I had no place
+to put them in. A few days after His Highness
+presented me with a handsome gold-mounted sabre,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>with which I was well pleased. On my exhibiting it
+to my Secretary he admired it as much as I did, but
+on referring to the station order-book, on no account
+was an officer permitted to receive a present or
+presents from any foreign authority.</p>
+
+<p>Here was a nice mess! I went to Colonel Rigby
+to ask him to return the sword and apologise. He
+said such a thing was impossible; it would not be
+understood: in fact, almost made me to understand
+that it would be a <i lang='la'>casus belli</i>! I had the sword
+wrapped in cotton and stated the case to the Board
+of Admiralty.
+1860.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Sailed from Zanzibar, giving the good
+Sultan a parting salute.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Took pilot. Stood into Port Mahé, all dangers,
+rocks and shoals being visible under a bright sun.
+Anchored in 10 fathoms. All large timber had
+long been cut down—underwood, the sweetest
+cedar.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Communicated with our prize, the <span class='ships'>Manuela</span>, at
+anchor off Flat Island. Came to off the Bell Buoy,
+Mauritius. I was last here in the <span class='ships'>Tweed</span> in April
+1829.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Prize arrived from Flat Island.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Brisk</span> having got on shore off the east coast in
+February sustained some damage, which rendered her
+docking necessary. Copper rubbed off; planking
+damaged.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed and proceeded under steam
+round the north end of the Island. 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came
+to in 6 fathoms in Mahébourg Harbour.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Slipped from mooring and steamed out of Port
+Louis. Came to in Mahébourg Harbour 1.50 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Governor visited the ship. Manned yards and
+saluted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>His Excellency kindly took me a two days’ trip
+round the island by land.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Wasp</span>, 13, Commander C. Stirling, arrived. Shifted
+flag to her; sent <span class='ships'>Brisk</span> to relieve <span class='ships'>Forte</span>, ordered here.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span> arrived.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXVII">
+    CHAPTER LXXVII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap"><span class='ships'>Forte</span> Flag Re-hoisted</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1860.
+Nov.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Re-hoisted flag in <span class='ships'>Forte</span>. Fired Royal Salute
+at noon, in honour of Prince of Wales’s birthday.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Mauritius,
+Nov.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Persian</span>, 12, arrived from Seychelles, and saluted
+flag. Commander Hardinge, having sustained a
+severe but accidental wound in the foot, was unfortunately
+rendered unfit for duty.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>French war steamer <span class='ships'>La Somme</span> arrived from
+Réunion, bearing the broad pennant of the Commodore,
+with whom we exchanged salutes. In
+afternoon proceeded to Tombeaux Bay. Came to
+off Monsieur de Courson’s sugar mills.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Tombeaux
+Bay,
+Nov.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Joined by <span class='ships'>Persian</span>, 12, sloop. Made arrangements
+for sham fight to come off on the 20th.
+<span class='ships'>Wasp</span>, in dock, was found to have sustained considerable
+damage while on shore off Slave Krop Point.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Soon after daylight observed the troops, consisting
+of 5th and part of 24th Regiments, with artillery,
+marching down and crossing pontoon bridge at head
+of bay. These were followed by a strong party of
+police. From that time until afternoon there was
+one continuous string of natives and people of all
+sorts arriving from Port Louis and country round,
+taking up positions to see the fight, for which nothing
+could be better adapted than the high land about the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span>head of Tombeaux Bay. At noon visitors arrived on
+board. After luncheon we commenced landing them
+on a commanding point out of range, but from which
+I could command by signal, assisted by a very pretty
+French lady.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Forte</span> and <span class='ships'>Persian</span>, having been swung broadside
+to the point of attack, the boats formed into two
+lines abreast: lighter boats landing storming parties,
+gunboats following to cover disembarkation.</p>
+
+<p>The point to be carried was a high mound at the
+head of the bay, about two hundred yards inland.
+The landing to be effected under cover of the ship’s
+guns. The enemy’s picquets were driven in, and
+their skirmishers retired. The hill was stormed and
+carried, supposed forts blown up. Enemy, having
+received reinforcements, endeavoured to outflank and
+cut off retreat. On the order to retire, the mound
+was reoccupied by the enemy, and pressing us with
+artillery on a retreat, desperate fighting was the result.
+The storming party would have been made prisoners,
+had not their re-embarkation been covered by the
+ships, who opened fire and kept the enemy in check.</p>
+
+<p>So ended the Battle of Tombeaux Bay, a successful
+exhibition which delighted some twenty thousand
+natives and residents, without an accident. A ball
+in a house kindly lent by Mr. de Courson, the
+Mayor, finished the night.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to Port Louis.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Mahébourg,
+Nov.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Grand ball given by Governor and Mrs. Stevenson.
+Weighed at daylight. <span class='ships'>Persian</span> in company. Came
+to in the harbour of Mahébourg, where I was kindly
+entertained by the Colonel and officers 5th Regiment.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Persian</span>—fine crew and in good order.</p>
+
+<p>Steamed out of the harbour: exchanged cheers
+from the rigging on parting company.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Simon’s
+Bay,
+Dec.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>2.15 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Storm coming on, ran for Simon’s Bay.
+Furled sails. Came to with both bower anchors
+after having brought up with 75 fathoms of cable
+ahead; ship drifted to a fresh squall; parted small
+bower cable, and, as we afterwards discovered, stock
+of best bower broken. Ship brought up by sheet
+and spare anchors when within half her length of the
+rocks, but held on by help of steam screw until evening,
+when gale moderated. It <em>can</em> blow in the neighbourhood
+of the Cape! Found here <span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, <span class='ships'>Lyra</span>,
+<span class='ships'>Hornet</span>, and <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>, the latter our prize, <span class='ships'>Manula</span>,
+rechristened, and bought into the service for use in
+suppression of slavery on the east coast. Found also
+the <span class='ships'>Pioneer</span> from England refitting for the Zambesi
+expedition.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Rather bored with continued gales, unusual at
+this time of year. Went up to Cape Town to visit
+my kind friends. The races were going on at Green
+Point, to which I went, attended by groom only.
+Among others found myself, without seeking him,
+close to His Excellency Sir George Grey, my late
+passenger in the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>, surrounded by his staff.</p>
+
+<p>Found a letter from my clergyman friend, Eyre,
+dated September 30, in which he stated that he had
+some qualms of conscience about writing on the
+Sabbath, but recollecting what he had read in the
+Gospel for the day, he determined to continue.</p>
+
+<p>In Cape Town was Doctor Livingstone waiting
+for an opportunity to get to the Zambesi. Informed
+him of one in the <span class='ships'>Pioneer</span>; and, like the sinewy-looking
+man that he was, he walked the whole way to
+Simon’s Bay.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXVIII">
+    CHAPTER LXXVIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Cape Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1861.
+Simon’s
+Bay,
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Succeeded in getting <span class='ships'>Sidon</span> under weigh, with <span class='ships'>Pioneer</span>
+in tow, at 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Slipped moorings and steamed out of
+Simon’s Bay. Rounded Cape Point. 9.—Made sail,
+passing between the Bellows Rock and the Main. Up
+screw.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Forte</span>,
+Jan.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>It was my intention to have visited Ichaboa on
+way to Ascension, but the wind falling light for
+several successive days, and having appointed the
+Commodore of the West Coast to meet me at Ascension
+the middle of January, did not delay.</p>
+
+<p>Attention to the vast deposit of guano on Ichaboa
+appears to have been drawn by Captain Andrew
+Livingston in 1843; the first cargo was taken off by
+the <span class='ships'>Ann</span> in that year. Although the island is little
+more than a mile in circumference, from April 1843
+to February 1845 upwards of 200,000 tons of guano
+had been removed. In the month of January 1845,
+450 vessels were present, and as many as 6000 seamen
+and labourers at work. The constant presence of a
+man-of-war was necessary. The island appears to
+have been clean swept of guano, and the birds, seals,
+etc., driven away by February 1845. Since that, a few
+enterprising individuals have, by keeping guard there,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>prevented the birds from being disturbed, so that
+they resort there annually, and guano to the value of
+£30,000 is taken off and sent to the Mauritius
+market. This increase has excited the cupidity of
+other parties at Cape Town, who choose to consider
+it as an unfair monopoly on the part of those who
+have, at considerable expense, watched over, and, as
+they term it, cultivated the guano. While one party
+is prepared to defend their preserve, others are
+preparing to help themselves, and use force. It was
+to prevent bloodshed that I thought of going. The
+island, however, belongs to no one.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Daylight made the Island of Ascension. Came
+to at 8.30 in 10 fathoms. Found <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>, 47,
+Commodore Edmonstone, and <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, whose
+figurehead I have. No exchange of salutes, on
+account of its being the turtle season, which continues
+from November until June.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>. Clean and smart. Good
+at quarters, as well as at manning and arming boats.
+Fairish crew, but spoilt in appearance by cloth caps,
+now prevalent in the service.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> sailed for Sierra Leone and Gambia to
+quell disturbance by King Badiboo. Inspected the
+“island of forbidding appearance,” without water
+or wood, and formerly regarded as an impracticable
+heap of ashes. Ascension is now in a state of improvement
+as to its resources, natural and artificial.
+Government buildings of stone, neat and substantial,
+consisting of store-house, hospital, a good smith’s
+shop, mess-room and barracks; but the chief interests
+of the island are centred in turtle. The first part
+of a tolerably good road has been made between hills
+of cinders and along plains of ashes, dust, and
+lava.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span></p>
+
+<p>Green Mountain is nearly in the centre of the
+island, 2818 feet above the sea; rising, as the Directory
+terms it, a “graceful oasis amidst waste and desolation”;
+from it you look down on some forty hills of
+cinders, each of which has in its turn contributed to
+the supply of lava and ashes; but now, with the
+assistance of planting and cultivation attracting rain,
+it is rapidly progressing. There appear to be about
+2000 acres in pasture, planted, or under cultivation.
+Cattle, and occasionally horses are bred, but sheep
+appear to thrive best. In addition to seven or eight
+milch cows, the Government farm can boast of two
+bulls, thirty oxen, and about eleven thousand sheep.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Sierra Leone. Found <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>.
+Saluted authorities and landed, receiving due honours.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived H.M.S. <span class='ships'>Falcon</span>, under command of Lieutenant
+Bagge, Commander Arthur Fitzroy having
+died of fever. At this sad event I am deeply grieved.
+It was only in the Crimea that I attended the deathbed
+of his elder brother: one of a family through
+whose care and kindness I, as a midshipman, recovered
+from this deadly African fever.</p>
+
+<p>I appointed my Flag Lieutenant, Algernon C. F.
+Heneage, to poor Arthur Fitzroy’s vacancy in the
+<span class='ships'>Falcon</span>. She was lying in the river, where there was
+nothing above the surface to be seen moving but
+sharks’ fins. The new Commander was well got up,
+as was his wont, even to kid gloves. Just as his four-oared
+gig was getting alongside, one of the boys
+missed his footing and disappeared. In a moment
+Heneage unbuckled his sword, dived and saved the
+boy. He read his commission at the capstan in his
+muddy suit—a good beginning!—and returned on
+board <span class='ships'>Forte</span> to dine with his old Chief. For this
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>gallant deed the Humane Society awarded Heneage
+a medal.</p>
+
+<p>It was now my painful duty to write the following
+official letter:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">“Forte,” at Sierra Leone</span>,</p>
+<p class='center'><i>February 11, 1861</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb no-indent'>To the Secretary of the Admiralty.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>—I have the honour to inform you, for the information
+of My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I
+have received my appointment to the South East Coast of
+America; but, as I did not apply for that command, I beg
+most respectfully to request their Lordships will be pleased
+to inform me of their reason for removing me from the Cape
+of Good Hope and West Coast of Africa to an inferior
+command.—I have the honour to be, sir, your obedient
+servant,</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr3'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Henry Keppel</span>,</p>
+<p class='right pr1'>Rear-Admiral.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sierra
+Leone.</div>
+
+<p>Appointed Lieutenant Wilkinson Acting Commander,
+and Mr. Turner, Flag Lieutenant. The expedition
+had started to punish the King of Badiboo,
+who, when called on to pay a fine of bullocks for having
+robbed British merchants, sent in reply to Governor
+D’Arcy at Bathurst, he would fight him, and if he
+was not assisted by the French, thrash him to boot!
+Colonel Hill, Governor of Sierra Leone, having sent
+all his troops, was anxious for the assistance of the
+Navy.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Embarked the Governor under salute and manned
+yards. Weighed for the Gambia, <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> and <span class='ships'>Falcon</span>
+having preceded.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Gambia,
+Feb.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Nearing the land, signalman reported masts of
+a ship at anchor to the N.W. Steered towards
+her. On getting within distance, she signalled,
+“You are standing into danger.” This was the
+<span class='ships'>Arrogant</span>, my old friend Edmonstone of the Naval
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>College, the cleverest fellow there, who passed out
+six months before his allotted two years: no better
+fellow, but chance had made me his senior. My
+reply was, “Weigh immediately and follow me.”
+Steamed into the Gambia, <span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> in company.
+Came to in 15 fathoms off Bathurst.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—<span class='ships'>Arrogant</span> proceeded up the river to join
+the expedition which left Bathurst on Friday. 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—<span class='ships'>Falcon</span>
+arrived, but being out of coal came to.
+At 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, <span class='ships'>Forte’s</span> services not being required,
+steamed out of the river.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Sierra Leone. Having taken in 135
+tons of coal, steamed out.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Tornado came off, cool and refreshing.
+Made sail after the strength had passed. Departed
+this life, Mr. Keating, boatswain, a former shipmate
+in <span class='ships'>Dido</span>. Poor fellow, he leaves a wife and three
+young children.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Accra,
+Mar.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to off Accra; landed in the evening.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Re-embarked under salute from the
+fort. 9.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Weighed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>1.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in 7 fathoms off a village
+called Jellacoffy, two miles to the eastward of Cape
+St. Paul, a good place for stock and fruit. 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Weighed.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Fernando
+Po,
+Mar.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in a cove to the westward of Cockburn
+Cove, Fernando Po. Found <span class='ships'>Bloodhound</span>, 3, paddle
+wheel, steam vessel, Lieutenant Commander Francis
+W. Bennett. Saluted Spanish flag and returned
+salute of Spanish brig.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Arrived <span class='ships'>Alecto</span>, Commander Raby,
+bringing our December mail.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>No Protestant clergyman being allowed to do
+duty on shore, two marriages among the coloured
+population were solemnized on board by Captain
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>Turnour. There are upwards of 1000 coloured
+people, Protestants, in and about the town, who are
+not allowed to assemble together in each other’s
+houses to pray, nor is a school allowed for the
+education of their children. Such is Spanish law in
+<span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1861! Spanish Governor Don José de la
+Gandara visited the ship: a superior and intelligent-looking
+man.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>11.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed; stood to southward down
+west coast of the island.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">St.
+Thomas,
+Mar.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>7.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to in 6 fathoms, Island of St.
+Thomas, Fort St. Sebastian N.N.W. 3/4 mile. I
+anchored here, just twenty-three years ago, in the
+<span class='ships'>Childers</span> on my way to Ascension and England
+(1838). Found everybody on shore anything but
+civil; slavers calling are more profitable than Her
+Majesty’s ships. Several canoes, apparently fishing,
+started off to sea on our arrival and were not seen
+to return. After we got under weigh at 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+observed port-fires and other night signals in different
+directions.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>1 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Chased and came up with a brig, the
+<span class='ships'>Falmouth</span> of New York. This vessel had been
+captured only a few months ago by one of the U.S.
+cruisers <span class='ships'>Portsmouth</span>, and sent to New York to be
+sold for the benefit of the captors.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">St. Paul
+de Loanda,
+Mar.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Exchanged salutes with the <span class='ships'>Archer</span>, 8;
+came to in 5 fathoms as near the coal depot as we
+could. Found <span class='ships'>Wrangler</span>, also an old acquaintance
+at Madeira, Flag-Officer Inman, in the U.S. <span class='ships'>Constellation</span>;
+exchanged salutes and fraternized considerably.
+Found the American iron coaling launches
+most useful. Native labour idle and next to useless.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Midnight, weighed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Little Fish Bay. Obtained fresh beef
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>and live bullocks, yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins,
+and cabbages. English potatoes plentiful.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Cape of
+Good
+Hope,
+April 21.</div>
+
+<p>Stood into False Bay; took moorings in Simon’s
+Bay. Found here <span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, <span class='ships'>Gorgon</span>, and <span class='ships'>Persian</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Commenced coaling and otherwise preparing for
+our relief.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—<span class='ships'>Narcissus</span> arrived with flag of Sir Baldwin
+Walker to relieve me. Appointed to the Brazilian
+command.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Salutes exchanged.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Gave up the Command in Chief of the Cape of
+Good Hope and West African station to Sir Baldwin
+Walker. At 8.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> steamed out of Simon’s Bay
+to go to Table Bay for provisions, ships and transports
+from China having cleared out the stores.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Steamed out of Table Bay against a heavy
+swell.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>6.40 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to at Ascension. Found here
+<span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, <span class='ships'>Tortoise</span>, and <span class='ships'>Buffalo</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Ascension,
+May&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Took in all the coal we could get by 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+Sailed next morning.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXIX">
+    CHAPTER LXXIX
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Return to England</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1861.
+May&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Came to in Rio Harbour. Found <span class='ships'>Leopard</span>,
+with flag of Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington,
+K.C.B., waiting to be relieved. Also the old <span class='ships'>Madagascar</span>,
+Captain White; <span class='ships'>Curlew</span>, Captain Shaw; <span class='ships'>Spy</span>,
+Lieutenant Tabuteau; and <span class='ships'>Pylades</span>, Captain de Courcy,
+on his way home from the Pacific. Found also notice
+from their Lordships of their intention to supersede
+me with Rear-Admiral Warren, whom I might expect
+in the <span class='ships'>Emerald</span>, to which ship I was to transfer my flag
+and return to England.</p>
+
+<p>This step was taken by their Lordships in reply to
+a request I had made in a private letter to the First
+Lord to be allowed to return to England in the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>,
+that inquiry might be made into my conduct. Moreover,
+in reply to an official application I had made
+most respectfully, requesting their Lordships would
+be good enough to state reasons for having removed
+me from the Cape to an inferior command, I received
+an answer that their Lordships “were not in the habit
+of giving any reasons for the orders they may think
+proper to give.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived <span class='ships'>Emerald</span>, with flag of Rear-Admiral
+Warren; exchanged salutes. Transferred my flag
+to the <span class='ships'>Emerald</span> commanded by my gallant friend
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span>Captain Arthur Cumming. Off this coast on Sept. 6,
+1843, to the southward, he did as smart a thing as
+any sailor could wish. He was a lieutenant in charge
+of a twelve-oared cutter, searching for slavers. He
+disguised himself, his crew and his boat, as fishermen,
+painting the cutter after Brazilian fashion. A strange,
+rakish-looking brig nearing, Cumming steered towards
+her as if wishing to sell fish. Without a word he
+was on board, shot the helmsman, put the slaver up
+in the wind, to the consternation of her crew. His
+own men joined him. It was indeed a brilliant feat!</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>By the mail received the following press cutting—from
+what paper I know not, nor from whom I
+received it; but so struck am I by its truth and
+justice, it is herewith inserted:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class='center fs120'><span class="smcap">The Keppel Scandal</span></p>
+
+<p class='mth'>The report to which we gave currency last week, relative
+to the return of Sir Henry Keppel, has since been confirmed;
+and we understand another flag officer has been nominated
+successor to Sir Stephen Lushington on the Brazil Station.
+On the return of the gallant Admiral, the scandal with which
+his name has been associated will be fully investigated, and
+the danger of acting upon an <i lang='la'>ex parte</i> statement will probably
+receive another proof. Had Sir Henry Keppel tamely
+submitted to the sentence of removal from the Cape Station
+he would have been pleading guilty to a charge of a serious
+nature, and we give him full credit, therefore, for having
+declined to accept the South American command under such
+circumstances. This treatment of a British flag officer
+shows to what a miserable ebb the Navy has fallen. Had a
+general officer been complained of by a Colonial Government
+he would not have been summarily dismissed or transferred
+to another command unheard or untried. But, alas! the
+Navy has no <em>Head</em>, able or willing to maintain the independence
+of its officers. Any paltry complaint against a naval
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span>officer, when urged by a civilian, or coming from the Horse
+Guards or Home Office, assumes a degree of importance
+which it takes a deal of correspondence and explanations to
+lessen or set aside. The naval officer is often condemned on
+the shallowest of pretexts, and has no Court of Appeal.
+With respect to the alleged scene or scenes on board the
+<span class='ships'>Forte</span>, we have heard so many different versions that we
+decline to offer any decided opinion; but we contend on
+behalf of the service for that measure of justice which is
+never denied to the veriest criminal—a fair and full trial
+before condemnation. It may turn out that Sir George
+Grey acted with unbecoming and causeless impetuosity, and
+that a British Admiral was moved from a valuable appointment
+at the request of the Home Secretary, because an
+irascible civilian Governor chose to pick a quarrel. We
+demand on the part of the Navy fair play. We ask no
+more, and we are satisfied that if it is not freely accorded
+by the Board of Admiralty, there are champions of justice
+enough in the House of Commons to take up the cudgels.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>H.M. Minister, Mr. Christie, embarked on board
+<span class='ships'>Emerald</span>. Sunset, resigned command of South
+American station to Warren, and shifted flag to
+<span class='ships'>Emerald</span>, embarking with suite at same time. Was
+informed that during the night between fifty and
+sixty of the <span class='ships'>Forte’s</span> crew deserted.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Weighed. Although at that late hour,
+the crew of <span class='ships'>Forte</span> voluntarily waited up to greet their
+old Admiral and Captain with a succession of parting
+cheers. Blue lights were burned as we steamed
+round and stood out of Rio Harbour. Thirty-seven
+years since I first entered it!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>7 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to off St. Salvador in the famous
+Bahia Bay. Found <span class='ships'>Curlew</span>. Exchanged salutes with
+Brazilian flag. Noon, Royal salute in commemoration
+of Brazilian independence.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Ship visited by President to see our Minister and
+Armstrong guns.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed and steamed out of Bahia.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Crossed the Equator for the last time!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Made the Eddystone Lighthouse.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>After passing Cowes, furled sails, squared yards,
+rounded to, manned yards, and saluted Royal standard.
+Made sail, came to at Spithead.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Struck flag. Visited friend, George Gray, now
+Rear-Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard. After
+luncheon, accompanied him towards the King’s Stairs,
+where he expected the Prince Consort to embark for
+Osborne, H.R.H. having been to inspect works in
+progress at Portsdown.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Portsmouth,
+Aug.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>On the Prince’s appearing in sight, I retired;
+however, His Royal Highness having spotted me,
+came direct and gave me a kind and cordial “welcome
+back.” I was much pleased and gratified at
+this—but still sore at the silence preserved at the
+Admiralty as to the cause of my removal from the
+Cape Station. Governor Sir George Grey had sent a
+message that “if I did not (on our second leaving Rio
+for the Cape) write home what had occurred, he
+would not.”</p>
+
+<p>Having since found out how little regard he had
+for speaking the truth, I believed that he had access
+by writing to some person near the Court, which would
+account for the mystery at the Admiralty. The
+kindness of the Prince Consort somewhat dispelled
+this idea. I proceeded to London. My brother-in-law,
+clever and truest friend, was no more!
+I tried to forget my Service troubles, and the notice
+I more than once received that I need not expect
+further employment. Sir Frederick Grey, First Sea
+Lord, was then the only person who, if not deceived,
+knew what had occurred on board the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Aug. to
+Sept.</div>
+
+<p>On 5th December 1860, the First Lord wrote me a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span>private letter, which I only received after my arrival
+in England stating, “Upon consideration, he thought
+it expedient to transfer me to another station.” A
+more just and honourable man than the Duke of
+Somerset there could not be. By whom had His
+Grace been misled? There are now living proofs
+in London of what did occur! Sir George Grey and
+myself are both old men, living within an hour’s
+walk. We must shortly be called to our full account.</p>
+
+<p><i lang='la'>P.S.</i>—Poor fellow! since writing the above I
+find that Sir George Grey (born <em>Gray</em>) rests under
+the same roof as Nelson and Wellington!</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXX">
+    CHAPTER LXXX
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Shore Time</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1861.
+Oct.</div>
+
+<p>Although surrounded by friends, England to me
+was no longer the same happy place. I felt aggrieved
+and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook to share
+my troubles.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>The marriage ceremony was performed by her
+brother Richard, assisted by the Rev. Hon. Robert
+Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nov.</div>
+
+<p>We went abroad, travelled through France and
+Italy: remained some time in Florence, met many
+kind friends, visited the churches and shops without
+the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions
+my good wife invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to
+display my French, usually answered, “Toujours près.”</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Paris,
+Dec.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>The good Prince Consort departed this life.
+Her poor Majesty! Universal grief!</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1862.
+Jan.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to England. We retook possession of
+our cottage at Bishopstoke, although I had a kind
+and good tenant in Sir John Bayley, owner of the
+<span class='ships'>Nymph</span>, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton;
+he kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements
+were being made, we took lodgings in Sloane Street,
+my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Son Colin was born, an event which took off
+the rough edge of discontent. The gallant Clyde
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>stood godfather. Am not going to bore my readers
+with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I
+still had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting;
+also, being a light weight, had frequent mounts
+with hounds.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1863.
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands,
+Isle of Wight. Her phaeton was overturned, but
+H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon.
+Mrs. Bruce was in attendance.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first
+time in the House of Lords. Navy much exercised
+about the building of ironclads.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over
+a thousand presentations, besides seventeen hundred
+who attended. Amongst other old shipmates, met
+Prince Victor of Hohenlohe.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>This was indeed a happy and exciting day for
+London. The arrival and procession through the
+city and streets by the most lovely Princess that ever
+visited this country. The excitement and fatigue
+must have been great, but Her Royal Highness
+allowed no one to see it.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at
+Windsor.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as
+was my brother-in-law, Sir Joseph Hawley; he had
+engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused myself at
+Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down
+at the cottage, Bishopstoke.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had
+been for some time in delicate health. In 1856 I
+took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was
+buried at Quidenham.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C.
+Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes valued at £7200.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First
+appearance of Prince and Princess of Wales. Cup
+won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged
+seventy-one.... Attended his funeral on 21st.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess
+of Wales, arrived in England.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dec.</div>
+
+<p>The River Itchen running between my kitchen
+and flower-garden, was full of trout, and there was
+a small summer-house through which I could conduct
+a running stream from the river. I wrote to
+Mr. Buckland to help me in breeding trout. In the
+upper part of the summer-house I had a tank, which
+could be renovated and a small stream of water
+introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,—these
+overflowed into each other. It was great fun
+watching the tiny things come to life and gradually
+increase in size, until it was time to put them into
+the river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose
+property the Itchen ran, took a great interest in the
+experiment. From my little preserve on the Itchen,
+Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with
+trout, which has proved very successful.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray.
+He had, some years before, proposed me as a member
+of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant gathering of
+Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in
+Watt’s Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up
+to the end of its days my name was up on the walls
+of the Club as “absent on special business.”...</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1864.
+Jan.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>with Prussia; offered my services. But the rank of
+Vice-Admiral interfered.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended
+by General Knollys and Colonel Keppel.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Apr.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his
+full uniform: red shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick.
+He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron pigs notoriety
+over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three
+weeks’ visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht
+<span class='ships'>Undine</span> for Caprera.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Capture of <span class='ships'>Alabama</span> by Federal cruiser <span class='ships'>Kearsage</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>Three millions afterwards paid by England! So
+much for arbitration!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good
+deal on board Tom Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry)
+yacht the <span class='ships'>Arrow</span>, R.Y.S.; at that period had not
+been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht,
+the <span class='ships'>Freak</span>, but nothing could pass <span class='ships'>Arrow</span>. Being
+an honorary member of the Royal Yacht Squadron,
+consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing how
+sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle
+was our host’s favourite anchorage.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Guernsey,
+July&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a
+favourite anchorage. Market well supplied with
+fruit and vegetables, but you should not spoil your
+appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After
+breakfast joined by Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert.
+We started in hopes of engaging one Lanourie, a
+celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was
+already engaged by Mr. Petre of the <span class='ships'>Osprey</span>.
+Arrived <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span>, R.Y.S.; joined by Fred Delmé
+Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and
+Colonel Denny.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote"><span class='ships'>Arrow</span>
+yacht,
+July&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>On the highest part in the centre of the town is
+a granite tower erected in memory of Her Majesty’s
+visit. After a climb up a spiral staircase, we obtained
+a view of the island. The tide being out, the
+numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like
+pinnacles from the deep; makes one feel thankful
+one is not the owner of a yacht. During the night
+we were joined by the <span class='ships'>Firefly</span>, Sir H. Oglander.
+A strong north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne
+has a party at Cranberry, and I am due at
+home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on
+vote of censure. The position of Federal troops in
+Virginia critical.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas
+Whichcote on board his <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke,
+saw wife and kid (Colin), returned to <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>,
+and off with first of south-wester to the eastward.
+Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span>
+had got start, but we caught her up this side of
+Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month
+of my journal and left me neither on shore nor afloat.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance.
+Detained a couple of hours for want of water.
+Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel
+shortly after midnight.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> brought up outside the bar. Having
+worked up to Helvets Maas, changed pilot and
+hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had
+to wait our turn. <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> rejoined; got through first
+tack. Taken in tow by horses, to me a novel mode
+of travelling. Canal about six miles in length.
+Secured inside the lock.</p>
+
+<p>On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>wild duck, and plover; cattle, carts and carriages,
+latter primitive in appearance. At noon anchored
+off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the
+Church Tower, magnificent and extensive view.
+Inside the church are two good sculptures of Admirals
+de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and
+Conellan dined with us.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The
+Hague.</div>
+
+<p>Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum
+and Picture Gallery. Lunched at a Café by the way,
+particularly clean. We then drove to the King’s
+Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by
+some of the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At
+the Palace we were civilly received by the servants.
+Although the Queen was residing in it, we were shown
+over the charming country residence. On our preparing
+to leave, a footman suggested writing our
+names in a book lying open on a side-table. I had
+no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat.</p>
+
+<p>We had just turned into the road from the outer
+gate, when a messenger came running with Her Majesty’s
+commands for my return, when I was sent for, and
+received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique
+Mathilde at the door of the ante-room, and desired
+to follow her into a charming boudoir. After a few
+kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her Majesty
+hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction,
+and other kind expressions. I mentioned that I had
+had the honour of being a Groom-in-Waiting to
+Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss
+the royal hand on departing: my friends having
+kindly waited in the carriage, enjoying the fragrant
+weed.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more
+curious collection of pretty things I had never seen.
+Returned by train, and so on board the pretty and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>beautifully clean <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>, having seen a good
+deal, and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception
+I had received. The <span class='ships'>Eugenies</span> came to dine.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came
+on board and agreed to accompany us to Amsterdam.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Amsterdam,
+Aug.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station
+at Amsterdam to the Palace. We first mounted the
+belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee and surrounding
+country. We came in for a tune on the
+bells, as well as the striking the hour of noon on
+the more ponderous one. The Palace is as dismal
+and as uninteresting a building as one could well go
+through. Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken
+from their greatest enemy are suspended in the
+Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers
+of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his
+ship up, with himself and crew, after getting on shore,
+when boarded by the Belgians in 1831.</p>
+
+<p>We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged
+building, but containing some good pictures. Amsterdam,
+with its trade and canal streets, is very like
+Rotterdam. At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we returned by a train <i lang='la'>viâ</i>
+Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this
+great grazing, cattle-supporting country, that unless
+I had been told I should have thought we were
+returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had
+luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much,
+although things were clean. Got on board <span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>
+a little after seven.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Rotterdam,
+Aug.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and
+examined a small galliot pleasure-boat, of about
+eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to which I had
+taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a
+vessel could be, the middle part decked over. Mast
+and sails fitted, and for stability as safe as a church.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>Should like to have her in the Itchen, off Bishopstoke.
+Weather bad.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Wind just sufficient to allow
+us, with ebb tide, to fetch down, which we did cleverly
+in one hour. Same distance when going up taking
+us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at
+Nieuwe Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon.
+Process of getting through the lock gates slow. We
+heard of a large ship coming through yesterday, requiring
+forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+we were through the gates, and, with the assistance
+of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the three horses at
+the tow rope in a jog-trot. <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> having had half
+an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without
+the encumbrance of horses, and was, partly owing to
+the haze, out of sight ahead. The canal is crossed
+by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing
+between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In
+meeting vessels it is customary, or rather it is the
+printed law, to keep to the right or starboard side.
+At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was
+observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel,
+as if she did not intend to give way an inch to, what
+she most likely considered us, the weaker vessel; in
+vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one might
+have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however,
+we had all but squeezed through, when the
+<span class='ships'>Leveret</span>, of Whitby, at last, and when too late, put
+her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very
+rudely against <span class='ships'>Enchantress’s</span> bow, by which she lost
+a whisker and had her cathead and upper works considerably
+damaged; to say nothing of the foresail,
+which was rent in twain.</p>
+
+<p>The nimble <span class='ships'>Leveret</span> did not escape without a
+scratch, inasmuch as <span class='ships'>Enchantress’s</span> anchor having
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>hooked the <span class='ships'>Leveret’s</span> main rigging, tore away three
+of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works
+fore and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold
+on by, tumbled into the water and was soon weighed,
+catted, and fished. While we proceeded on our way,
+the collier was observed to rush frantically into the
+rushes on the wrong bank of the river.</p>
+
+<p>At 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we brought up at Helviotsluys end of
+the canal. All appearances of a gale of wind, although
+in the right direction, we are better inside the
+canal.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Helviotsluys,
+Aug.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers
+to eastward the sea must go down a bit. Visit from
+the <span class='ships'>Eugenies</span> or Irish Brigade, who likewise had been
+in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not
+intending the lubberly <span class='ships'>Leveret</span> to escape the punishment
+due, sent Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam
+by steamer to lay the case before Her Majesty’s
+Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may
+detain us another day, as the master cannot be back
+before to-morrow. Landed and visited the town,
+which is entered by a drawbridge, and surrounded by
+a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no
+guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one
+of the bastions. In the centre of the town was an
+old 50-gun frigate, for the training of youths for
+their navy. In the evening the <span class='ships'>Eugenies</span> came on
+board and we had a rubber.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> got through the gates at an early hour,
+but brought up outside. Gale over, glass rising, but
+no easterly wind. A young Dutchman, probably an
+attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of a letter
+from the master of the <span class='ships'>Leveret</span>, the purport of which
+was that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages
+as soon as his defects were made good. Tom Whichcote,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span>having read the document, tore it up and threw
+it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell
+Mr. Clark (the master of the <span class='ships'>Leveret</span>) to go to a
+hot place. The scribe having remarked that Sir
+Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business,
+retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on
+board and conducted us through the gates—an operation
+we could have done as well. Came to outside
+preparatory to a start in the morning.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind
+hanging to W.S.W. Message from the Irish Brigade
+proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to
+Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed.
+Landed sea pilot and tried for a river one; only one
+in store, so settled to wait. At 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> observed
+<span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> working down for the sea. However,
+Tom Whichcote was not to be influenced into again
+changing his mind; having got on board a river
+pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between
+certain black and white buoys.</p>
+
+<p>After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker,
+the tide having fallen, and the channel narrow
+and wind in our faces, we came to. Observed sundry
+seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying
+sand left by the falling tide. <span class='ships'>Eugenie</span> and ourselves
+no longer in company, and as their manœuvring scented
+somewhat of the humbug it was not to be regretted.
+Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.—wonder
+whether I shall ever be so far <em>East</em> again.</p>
+
+<p>These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted
+with shoals and dangers, do not understand the
+handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner.
+They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of
+the length of time they hold their way; consequently,
+instead of merely pointing out to the captain of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span>vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid, took to
+working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud
+bank. The second time she was only got off by a rising
+tide. Much time was lost, and we brought up for the
+night earlier than we otherwise should.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind.
+Haywood, the master, appeared to have had enough
+of narrow channels and mud banks, so took the
+Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and
+we stood on to Brouwershaven, where we came to at
+9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> to wait tide, change pilot for a deep-sea one,
+and obtain provisions. This being the main channel
+for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we
+found several French, American, and Dutch.</p>
+
+<p>Water being low as we came down, the banks were
+covered with various birds. Two of the crew landed
+in the night and had got within twenty yards of a flock
+of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected
+to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to
+go off, so the ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned
+with a regular old salt as sea pilot; not much to be
+done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper,
+dated Friday last, was in the possession of one of the
+American skippers, with most likely news from the
+States.</p>
+
+<p>Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked
+out cleverly; twelve miles before we were clear of the
+outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our departure
+from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A
+refreshing breeze, but rising sea. Name it not, but
+at four, dinner-time, my old inside revolted. I felt so
+sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing dinner.
+Made a second attempt at supper-time with same
+result. By 11.30 made Lowestoft Light.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>At noon we were off the North Foreland.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span>Dirty weather; we wisely came to in Margate Roads.
+Glass falling; westerly gale.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Gale continuing. Got <cite>Daily Telegraph</cite> from a
+stranger, but neither he nor three others could tell
+what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last week at
+York!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot
+getting over a stone wall near Box, Bath.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Oct.</div>
+
+<p>It was about this time that my kind friends at
+Singapore realised the position in which I was placed.
+Now that the subject of the transfer of the Straits
+Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was
+under the consideration of the Government, I think
+my friends were almost unanimous in wishing that I
+should be appointed Governor of the Straits Settlements.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXI">
+    CHAPTER LXXXI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Country House Visits</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1865.
+Jan.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Re-established myself at Bishopstoke. Prepared
+for hunting and jobbed horses.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>With the Hambledon meet, West End; found in
+Allington Wood. Sharp but short run, the greater
+part to myself.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Rode “Balloon” with the Hursley meet, Farlay
+Down; found two foxes. A long day, and no run.
+Willie Standish driving me home from Hursley.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Thursday,
+Jan.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Letter from Knollys with kind invitation to Sandringham
+for Saturday next till Thursday following.
+By steamer to Hythe; shot with Charlie Scott, and
+put up at Beaulieu. Everything in the rough, but
+so comfortable. Shooting not much. Simpson, Clinton,
+and Morrit. Posted to station, and by rail to
+London. Put up at Bristol Hotel, Cockspur Street.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sandringham,
+Saturday,
+Jan.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>By 10.57 train from Shoreditch. Arrived at
+Dersingham 3.20; carriage to meet us. Prince most
+kind. Dinner, whist, loo, etc.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday,
+Jan.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Party here—Woodward, the librarian from Windsor;
+Frederick Leighton, artist; George Grey and
+Lady Morton in waiting; Miss Knollys, etc.; Lord
+Hamilton. To morning church. The Prince gave
+me a gold pin. The young Prince’s birthday: one
+year old, fine little fellow. Walked to see Brereton.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sandringham,
+Jan.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>George Grey and I to meet Villebois hounds—H.
+Seymour, Mrs. Dugdale Astley, Hammonds, etc.
+No scent, back early. Prince and self planted first
+apple and pear trees in new kitchen garden.
+Duchess of Cambridge arrived, attended by Lady
+Somerset and Purvis, also Lord Harris and Helps.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>We went, some nine guns, partridge-shooting,
+with over thirty beaters to drive. The wind high,
+and birds fast for me. Great function was the hot
+luncheon in a barn. Sat next the Princess at dinner:
+the most charming of all Princesses.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Hounds met near. A large party from Sandringham,
+Lord Harris, P. Feilding, and self being
+mounted as well as the staff, Princess driving
+Duchess of Cambridge. Mrs. Dugdale Astley,
+Mrs. Villebois, and others out. Fox killed; bad
+scent.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dewlish,
+Jan.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Lord Harris and self took leave of their kind
+Royal Highnesses. At Lynn station joined by Lord
+George Bentinck. In London by 3.50. Had time
+for chop at club. By train to Dorchester. Midnight
+before I got to Dewlish, Field-Marshal Sir J. Michel,
+G.C.B.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Owing to Lord Ilchester’s death our visit to
+Minterne postponed. Horses had, however, arrived
+there. Large party in house, Radcliffe’s hounds
+meeting near. Rode “Canteen.” Dry, cold, snow
+on ground; bad scent. Lost first fox; short run
+with second.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dewlish,
+Jan.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>To morning service. In the clergyman found an
+old friend at the Cape in 1828. He then in army,
+son of old Blair who kept the hounds.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>To a near meet with Radcliffe’s hounds. Michel,
+his daughter Rachel, very pretty, and Miss Kelyar,
+also pretty, with us. Two scrambling races; one
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span>
+fox killed, another to a drain. Much taken out of
+“Balloon.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>With Lady Michel to Dorchester. Train to
+Poole. Bus to Bournemouth to look after quarters
+on Colin’s account. Fanny Albemarle and P. Cust
+kind and obliging. Took lodgings and returned
+to dine.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Was to have hunted with Digby, Vale of White
+Horse. Fancied frost too sharp.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Although a sharp frost, went out with Michel
+to meet Radcliffe’s hounds. Heard that the Vale
+had had a good run yesterday! Have greatly
+enjoyed visit to Dewlish, so kind and good to
+everybody.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>As there was no Minterne visit, horses had to
+return to Bishopstoke. Rode one of them to Dorchester
+station, wife and Colin following, where I
+had taken lodgings.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Found niece Augusta North here with her
+children. Dined with P. Cust and Fanny Albemarle,
+meeting Tom Pasley, Lord Winchilsea with pretty
+wife, late F. Rice, Cust’s son-in-law and daughter,
+the Kennedys, a Mr. Hay and wife: agreeable
+party.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Bitter cold; church reported High Pusey. Let
+wife go alone.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>By rail to Bishopstoke; cottage snug and comfortable,
+but dull without the wife and kid.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Jan.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Snow, and barometer falling. Dined with the
+Dean. Felt my way home with a bull’s-eye lantern—pelting
+rain!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Preferred walking to station to having horse
+roughed. Train to Christchurch. Bus to Bournemouth.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>By bus to Christchurch and train to Bishopstoke.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span>George Deane called with invite for me to shoot
+with Chamberlayne.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Wife and Colin came by 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, looking all
+the better, and most welcome, as I had enough of
+being alone.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+Feb.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>This morning’s post brought further information
+with regard to the Straits Settlements.</p>
+
+<p>At 2.40 telegram from Prince of Wales, stating
+that they would be passing at 3, and proposing we
+should bring our boy to the station to meet their
+Royal Highnesses. Obeyed command and enjoyed
+a too short interview.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Meet of Hambledon at Marwell; wife and Colin
+there. Killed one fox, and a fast but short run after
+another. Henry West arrived by train to dinner.
+Atkins sent us some excellent snipe.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>H. West and I to morning church. Sister
+Caroline staying at Rectory: there since Thursday.
+Visit from Standish, bringing Harry Stephenson from
+the <span class='ships'>Bombay</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Willie Standish having given Henry a mount,
+meet at Crab Wood; we drove to Hursley—best
+run of the season. Lamed “Balloon” by falling
+into a road—a drift of snow tripping him on landing,—a
+badly-cut knee. Walked to Winchester; horse
+from Tubbs; led “Balloon” home.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Meet at Hambledon at George Deane’s. Carried
+Colin up to see meet. Rode “Canteen,” sending
+Dawson on Tubbs’ mare to Cams. Dennison from
+Portsmouth came in for cherry brandy.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Vet. Retford to see horses; mare still stiff and
+lame; “Balloon,” ugly wound, but doing well.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Feb.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Repeated visit to Bishopstoke; all well at home,
+but felt that I had no business to absent myself on
+my selfish amusement of hunting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>By train to Gosport. On board <span class='ships'>Victory</span>. Court-martial
+on loss of <span class='ships'>Bombay</span>. No end of friends.
+Visited young Garnier at Mrs. Knight’s school.
+Lunched with Fred and Mrs. Hutton. At Cams;
+found Elliot Yorkes.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Frost and no hunting.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>H. Delmé with Pat Blake and Elliot Yorke to
+see Fred Radcliffe and his “Fair Rosamond” at
+Gosport.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Sold “Canteen” to W. C. Alexander for £150.
+Sent to Tubbs for a mount. Meet at Warmford.
+Breakfast with Eccles, having picked up Chapman
+and George Deane. Tubbs’ brute, a gray, fell with
+me into a lane; difficulty in getting home; a talk
+when there; got letters from Alexander returning
+“Canteen” for a whistler; don’t believe it, having
+only lately bought him of F. Delmé Radcliffe, for
+more than I could well afford.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Glad to have secured house in London. Letter
+from Alexander, who is a gentleman, taking my word
+in preference to the Vet.’s; sent me a cheque for £150,
+which I returned. Captain Grimston offered me £30
+for “Balloon,” which I declined.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>“Canteen” returned this morning. Standish
+called, kindly offering to take care of “Balloon”
+until sold, which I accepted. He also took Dick
+King and the mare.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Found wife and Colin at Leinster Gardens.
+Lunched 15 Cadogan Place. Called on Miss Burdett-Coutts
+and Rajah Brooke, also on Albemarle, his
+wife and Charteris.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Navy Club dinner; Mundy in chair. Rajah
+Brooke guest; about thirty present. Walked with
+Rajah to call on Miss Burdett-Coutts.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Moved into No. 40 Connaught Square.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Declined a mount kindly offered by Henry West
+with the old Berkeley: great temptation though!
+Dined with Henry Eyre in Berkeley Square, meeting
+Le Marchant, Dacres, and others.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">London,
+Mar.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>At club found letter—W. Standish’s cheque for
+£35 for “Balloon.” Good beast in good hands.
+Made calls on Lord Palmerston and Admiral Rous.
+Declined Lord Campbell’s kind offer of house room.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Ballot at club among about thirty candidates.
+Bowyear elected. Dined with Thorolds; meeting
+pleasant; party as usual.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Governorship of Singapore engrossing my thoughts.
+Went to Houses of Parliament: introduced to W. H.
+Read’s friend Clerke Seymour.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Saw Duke of Somerset’s secretary; intimated to
+him to communicate that when applied to by Cardwell
+His Grace should not throw cold water on my
+appointment. Hope I may get it.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Saw Blackwood at Colonial Office; talk about
+Straits Settlements; don’t think I shall get it.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Major Lord D’Arcy Osborn rather a fancy for
+“Canteen,” although not for his price, £75. Made
+sundry calls. Sir George Seymour ill in bed.
+Letter from Lord D’Arcy Osborn, offering £75
+for “Canteen,” and to call at my club on the
+morrow.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Lord D’Arcy and brother came to club and
+agreed to take my horse. Dinner at Navy Club,
+Shrewsbury in the chair. Afterwards to Pratt’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Attended levée.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Called on and had a chat with Rokeby. Dined
+with sister Mary, going afterwards to wandering
+minstrels at Lord Gerald Fitzgerald’s.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>Kept journal irregularly at this time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>My sweet May born this day.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Death of Mrs. Selwyn prevented Tom Whichcote
+coming to us for the Bibury and Stockbridge Races.
+Edward Russell and George Fitzroy came, but no
+races for poor E. R. The wife not strong, but she
+appeared at dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>George Fitzroy and I to Romsey: shunted there
+for an hour, but in time for the first race. Bibury
+Day, and broiling hot.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Got on with less delay at Romsey. The usual
+Stockbridge race weather. Heavy rain. Picked up
+Henry Fitzroy and brought him back to dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Friend Edward Russell took his departure—good
+fellow. George Fitzroy and I to races; did no good.
+Henry went home from the course.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Started for 3.15 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train, but no possibility of
+getting to Woolmer before 9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Left portmanteau
+at Liss; walked from Liphook; changed into
+Archie’s clothes.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Woolmer,
+July&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Lovely place this Woolmer!—Powerscourt, H.
+Stephenson, Salvin, a great naturalist, with cormorants
+to catch fish, Colonel Hagarth and wife. Had an
+amusing afternoon’s sport with the birds: no end of
+trout.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>More bother to get across Hants than to go to
+Bath. At 8.40 started in dogcart to Liphook, by
+rail <i lang='la'>viâ</i> Havant; got home in four hours.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Archie Macdonald, Sheriff for the County, came
+with Keppel Stephenson and his chaplain, Rev.
+Randolph Keppel Stephenson, had a bed at the
+Dean’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Lent wife’s carriage to Dean to vote for Bonham
+Carter. We all dined with the Dean in great force
+at result of election.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Norfolk,
+July&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>At Swaffham met Lord Hastings, who took me
+on to Melton Constable. Canvassed with Mrs. Dugdale
+Astley.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>On Hastings drag, four grays, to poll at Keepham.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>With Gurdon and Sons to nomination at Swaffham.
+Got Bury to propose Gurdon. After lunch
+to Quidenham with Bury.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Voted for Gurdon and Jones at Thetford. By
+express to London. By 1.10 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train to Winchester.
+Voted for Mildmay. Something to vote in Thetford
+and Winchester same day.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Train from Bishopstoke through London. Joined
+Col. C. Baillie in fly to Wentworth Woodhouse,
+meeting George and Mrs. Fitzwilliam, Sir James
+and Lady Mary Wilde, Count Havonet, Fawkes,
+Teesdale, Colonels Charles and William Baillie.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+Sept.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Received intimation from Clerk of the Peace of
+the Lord-Lieutenant, Winchester, having signed my
+commission as a magistrate of the county!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Had a meeting of ratepayers in vestry to consider
+the inefficient state of drainage. Atkins and Co. too
+strong for us: nothing decided on. No hope, unless
+cholera lays hold of one of them.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Having taken a six months’ season ticket, went
+up. Returned by 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> train. Cæsarewitch won by
+Salpinetes: a fiver on him at 6 to 1.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>In dogcart to Southampton to buy Colin a pair
+of gloves. Met George Day. On by King for
+something more of Salpinetes, Day, late one of my
+Mids, winning over £5000!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>To Winchester to take the oaths as Justice of
+the Peace. By train to London; attended Board
+of Anglo-Greek Co.; much bother by Count
+Mataxa.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with the Dean, for which purpose we
+borrowed his brougham. Sad intelligence of Lord
+Palmerston’s death reached by telegraph.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Colonel Randolph came down to look over
+cottage and stables. Stopped luncheon and took
+no notice of Colin! Drove wife into Winchester.
+Went over Tubbs’ stud.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Drove dogcart into Southampton. Toys for the
+dear wife’s boy, 6s. 2d.!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>George Lennox came into church, and whispered
+he was coming to lunch afterwards. He
+borrowed a half-crown of me, intending to stop for
+the communion service; but after the sermon he
+slipped the coin back into my hand, saying, “That
+fellow has so bored me, I am unfit to stay to the
+sacrament”!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>By train to Winchester. Attended for first time
+as magistrate. Special sessions.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Made a partial clearance in the cellar. Several
+articles brought to light. Pair of clam shells for the
+Cummings.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>By early train to London; on returning, stepping
+out before train had stopped at Bishopstoke, fell,
+striking back against handle of a wheelbarrow. Pain
+very great. Home and to bed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Tenants coming in, obliged to clear out. Unable
+to accompany wife and children to Bournemouth;
+was kindly taken in by Cummings. At once to bed,
+being in some pain and under impression that ribs
+were broken. Examined by Dr. Goldston; severe
+contusion, muscles bruised. Arnica applied, etc.
+Time and patience!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Took Charles Pilkington with me in dogcart to
+the opening of Albert Infirmary, Bishop’s Waltham.
+Prince Arthur, Princesses Helena and Louisa.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>Luncheon by Helps. Everything well done. Prayer
+by Bishop of Winchester. Concert in old Palace.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bournemouth,
+Nov.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>To afternoon service. Do not approve of High
+Church practice. Why one is, on going to church
+to pray, to be inflicted for half-an-hour with the
+catechism of children, I do not understand.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday,
+Nov.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>To morning service; a little too much High
+Church. Seven parsons in the holiest place!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived from London late in the evening at
+Brinsley Sheridan’s place, Frampton Court.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Frampton
+Court,
+Nov.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>As pretty a day’s shooting as one could wish.
+Five guns, of which George Bentinck was the best.
+B. Sheridan, Lord Archibald St. Maur, Lord Henry
+Thynne, and self made the number. There are few
+houses where guests are made to feel so welcome as
+at Frampton Court.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Same guns, with the exception of Lord H.
+Thynne, who hunted. All rabbits found in patches
+of gorse on side of hill on the Downs. Party at
+Frampton Court—Lord Harry and Lady Elrica
+Thynne, Mr. Lowe, George Bentinck, Mrs. Phipps,
+Mr. and Mrs. Col. Digby, Lady Gifford, Mr. and
+Mrs. Marker, E. Digby’s daughter. Dinners excellent,
+wines ditto. Ditto conversation in smoking-room
+later!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Another, the great day’s shooting; same five guns;
+no prettier shooting. Two woodcocks; one to my
+gun.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Mounted by Lord H. Thynne on a four-year old;
+kicking at starting. Short run with Lord Poltimore’s
+hounds. Home by 3.30 to catch train to
+Christchurch. Happy to get back to the “buzzom”
+of my family.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bournemouth,
+Dec.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>My darling boy’s birthday; three years, and indeed
+a fine specimen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Glad to get wife out; a fly to Fane’s, where I
+shot. Guns, Colonel Fergusson-Davies, Melville, a
+young Fane, Colonel Fane, and I. Cheery house to
+be in.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Mislaid portmanteau and missed my dinner, very
+much, with the dear old Dean at Winchester.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>With Sheriff (Archie Macdonald) to meet Judge
+at station. Party to dinner at Deanery.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Sworn in as foreman of the Grand Jury: novel
+position, got through with assistance of Curzon.
+Dinner at the Dean’s; large party, chiefly clergy.
+Well-fed, jolly lot.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>All the churches under influence of Mr. Bennett,
+of too much notoriety. “What can do.” Hard upon
+those who like to worship and pray to the Almighty
+in a quiet way.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Took my boy for walk in afternoon. What a
+companion is a small child when it’s your own! Crape
+round hat for Mrs. Wodehouse and King Leopold.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Albemarle-Custs arrived safe after their perilous
+voyage in a saloon carriage from London.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Enjoyed a morning walk with Colin on the beach;
+although wrong, preferred it to High Church with
+no place for my hat!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>A walk with my boy; so companionable. The
+wife coming out, we dined with Cust-Albemarle.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>By train from Shoreditch. Took charge of Louisa
+Eyre as far as Harling Road. Dunmore for company.
+Did not get to Holkham until 8.20 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+Picked up Burys <i lang='la'>en route</i>. Family gathering.
+Dunmore engaged to Gertrude.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Holkham,
+Dec.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Party, besides family, Burys, Dunmore, Powerscourts,
+W. Coke, S. Stephenson, Powell, Tridcroft,
+Caulfield, Porter.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>To morning service. How difficult it is to fall in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>with a good preacher, especially when an extempore,
+with beard and moustache! Whist in evening.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Shooting to-day—outskirts; twelve guns. Best
+of the shooting kept for the Prince. My bag 25
+hares, 2 rabbits, 2 pheasants. Jolly party in the
+house. Henry Seymour and wife arrived.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Walk with Seymour.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Shooting to-day, same guns nearly; more driving
+than shooting. Seymours left. Gurdons came.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Walk with B. Gurdon: he all the talk. Blind
+man’s buff in afternoon. Knocked my old head
+against chimney-piece—much to its inconvenience.
+Dance after dinner in statue gallery; whist also.
+Bury fallen on by Powerscourt, damaged ribs.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Quidenham,
+Dec.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>With Sophy Bury after luncheon to Wells—by
+train to Quidenham; kindly welcomed. Louisa
+Charteris there, Bury children nice.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>The old year going out in a storm. Went to
+church.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXII">
+    CHAPTER LXXXII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">A Shore Journal</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1866.
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Out shooting with brother George—partridges.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Wild partridge shooting with Charles Clements:
+20 brace, 5 hares, 6 guns.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>After shooting to meet friend Henry Eyre at
+Garboldisham.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Mount with scratch pack harriers.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Each afternoon I have sat with poor William
+Hoste; although he looks cheery and well in face,
+am afraid his days are numbered.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Found Holkham full; with P. Powell, Elphinstone,
+Dunmore, Tredcroft at the Inn, W. Coke
+and Sussex Stephenson going to Pinnock’s to make
+room. Attended at 4.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> to receive the Prince
+and Princess of Wales, Lady Morton and George
+Grey in attendance.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Holkham,
+Jan.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Party in house to meet their Royal Highnesses,
+Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Lord Beaumont,
+Lord and Lady Suffield, Lord and Lady Spencer,
+Lord and Lady Powerscourt, Lords Hamilton and
+Dunmore and Mr. de Grey, Edward and Di Coke,
+P. Powell, Tredcroft, Capt. Elphinstone, W. Coke,
+S. Stephenson, Gen. Porter and T. Dunmore, Lord
+Alexander Murray. Grand shooting; did not carry
+gun until the finish with the rocketers, when I had
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span>one of Leicester’s. A cheery dance in the evening, in
+which old and young joined.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>A day on the marshes—gentlemen beaters, ladies
+attending luncheon. Hamilton, Porter, and self fell
+into draining ditches.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Weather bad—this, the best day’s shooting, postponed.
+Fair day of sport though.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>This the grand day. Over 2000 head killed.
+Luncheon under large tent. Princess and ladies
+there. Dance in the evening, I dancing a quadrille
+with the most charming of Princesses!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>At Pratt’s—chat with John Hay.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Joined wife at Deanery, Winchester. Party of
+twelve at dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>By early train to Wolverton. Joined by Lord
+Clanwilliam and party going to Sandringham, Prince
+and Princess coming back from visit to General
+Hall.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sandringham,
+Jan.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Hounds met Sandringham, Prince giving me a
+mount. Princess out: capital gallop. Enjoy my
+visit much.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Percy Feilding and self taken by the Prince to
+shoot at Mr. Bagge’s; excellent day. Pleased with
+my own performance. Not dressed in time for
+dinner, but was spotted by her kind Royal Highness
+the Duchess of Cambridge, who saw “the little
+Admiral” as he was trying to sneak in behind the
+servants.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>To forenoon church, Charles Kingsley performing.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Departure of party; invited by Villebois with
+the Prince to shoot driven partridges. 270 brace
+bagged during a continual rain.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Finish to a most agreeable four days, Prince and
+Princess starting for Duke of Sutherland’s, Staffordshire,
+Duchess of Cambridge and remainder by rail
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span>to London. Dined with Cecilia Yorke. Party at
+Lord Powlett’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Train to Bournemouth. Colin and May looking
+so well.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Stephens; she, daughter of Sir H.
+Pottinger of China notoriety.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Albemarle-Custs.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Attended Bench, Winchester.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Page, engineer, meeting T. Weller
+and Ward, artist. Pleasant party.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Minterne,
+Feb.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>To friend Digby, I bringing a couple of horses
+from Chapman’s.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Hunted with Sir Richard Glynn’s hounds. Met
+many friends. Plenty of foxes, but no good run.
+Pleased with my mount. Medlycotts coming to dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>With Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Good run,
+Severe, heavy country. One fall. Ground soft;
+several others ditto.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Despatches from friend Read at Singapore.
+Should like to go out as Governor. Stormy weather
+again. Young ones rabbit shooting, I helping to
+cut up and clear away wreck of trees blown down.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Out with Poltimore. Good run with second
+fox. My usual ill luck; badly lamed one of
+Chapman’s horses—cut on fetlock, off foreleg,
+supposed to be by flint.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Afternoon service near Marker’s house. Small,
+very nice old-fashioned place. Good sermon—rare
+event.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Came down prepared for the chase. Frost pronounced
+to be too severe, especially over Poltimore’s
+downy country. Letter from Mr. Crawshay, enclosing
+an interesting one from Bishop Colenso.
+Young Digby, Marker and I, shot rabbits. Mr.
+Alexander Baring came. Porter left.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Letter from wife. Colin ill. Changed hunting
+costume and rode to Dorchester; train to Poole.
+Found the children bad—severe colds.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Minterne,
+Feb.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Horse from King’s Arms to Minterne. In time
+for luncheon. Walk with Alexander Baring.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Hunted with B.V. hounds. Rode new horse
+of Chapman’s—fine animal. Digby, Marker,
+Edward Digby and self—a good show from here.
+One fox chopped; a second found. No scent. Jolly
+day though.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Young Digby and I to the B.V. hounds.
+Mounted by B. Brooke. Capital jumper. Good
+short run, and part of another. Put hack up at
+Littletrab’s—Webbes, Medlycott, and Surtees out.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>With Poltimore’s hounds. Two good runs.
+Several falls, I, an absurd one. Marker’s horse
+killed. My last day’s hunting.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+Feb.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Dear old Dean entered his ninety-first year.
+Attended court as grand juryman. Managed not
+to be sworn in as foreman. Lunched with Arthur
+Cumming. Rajah Brooke there. Returned to
+Winchester. Dinner party as usual.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Meeting of magistrates on cattle plague—Chamberlayne,
+Bullpitt, Wells, Mulock, self.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Ashwarby,
+Mar.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>By train to London and Grantham. Whichcote
+to meet us. Welcomed to Ashwarby.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Started for Croxton Park races. Weather unusually
+fine. Whichcote’s horse, “Chance,” nowhere.
+Our party: Mrs. Franklin, Henry Gray, George
+Fitzroy, Colonel Fane. Back in time for 8 o’clock
+dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Forenoon service. Longish sermon that I did
+not hear. Took leave of kind friends.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>To London. Attended levée, presenting Harry
+Stephenson. Dined with Mr. Page, engineer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+Mar.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Attempt to fly-fish, having seen two rises. Lost
+two hooks in two walnut trees. Margaret Garnier
+and Tom came, former to stay.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Winchester to attend bench. Luncheon at
+Deane’s. Thermistophles to win City and Suburban.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Another large party, chiefly doctors and “rooks,”
+also young Lord Mulgrave.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>By early train home. Dined with Atherlys—first-rate.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>By train to London. Received, through George
+Elliot, an offer to take command of the Paraguayan
+navy: they at war with the Brazilians.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>This looked like business. Before giving answer,
+certain inquiries to be made. My name would be
+removed from Her Majesty’s navy list, for which I
+should require remuneration. A certain number of
+warships: a couple of ironclads to begin with, and a
+place to reside in while ships were being manned and
+fitted. £34,000 for loss of commission. The first
+and greatest difficulty was consent of wife. The
+Paraguayan agents appeared to be well satisfied. I
+intended to select, as soon as a proper ship had been
+provided, the beautiful bay, Bahia, off the Brazilian
+coast, as place of rendezvous. I had to provide
+officers in anticipation. The agents had already
+provided charts, which I daily studied. However,
+it all ended without smoke. Means were not forthcoming;
+the whole affair was quickly forgotten!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>To Cosham, on Chamberlayne’s drag to Hambledown.
+Hunt races. Capital meeting.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXIII">
+    CHAPTER LXXXIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Home Life</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1866.
+Yachting,
+April 25.</div>
+
+<p>Embarked on board <span class='ships'>Dream</span>, George Bentinck, in time
+for dinner. At about 9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a fruit trading steamer,
+weather fine, water smooth, moon shining bright, ran
+into two yachts: <span class='ships'>Ione</span>, Captain R. Quin, R.N., and
+<span class='ships'>Intrepid</span>, Count F. du Monceaux, carrying away
+their bowsprits, damaging bows and knocking two
+men overboard. <span class='ships'>Ione</span> was to have joined us on a
+cruise.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote"><span class='ships'>Dream</span>,
+R.Y.S.,
+April 26.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Got under weigh: light breeze from
+eastward. Cook, the same artist Whichcote had in
+<span class='ships'>Enchantress</span>. <span class='ships'>Dream</span> substantially built and very
+comfortable; yawl rigged. Made fast to a buoy in
+Portland Harbour. <span class='ships'>St. George</span> lying here, commanded
+by old shipmate E. Rice. Laid out trammel
+for red mullet, which are generally plentiful and
+good here, but caught whiting pont only.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Portland,
+April 27.</div>
+
+<p>After breakfast landed with Bentinck. Convicts
+at work; got some fair specimens of ammonite and
+fossil shells. Accompanied Rice on board <span class='ships'>St. George</span>;
+guns, stores on board, ready for service, to be manned
+from coastguard.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Bentinck read prayers to a well-conducted and
+attentive crew.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Visited works on the heights by convicts. When
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span>the fortifications are finished, where will the men
+come from to garrison them? Saw the fossil trees;
+some stumps erect, and others buried in the solid
+stone.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>My May’s birthday—promising little yearling.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Cherbourg,
+May&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Visited Consul Hammond on the hill, from whose
+garden the view is very fine. Consul has two charming
+daughters. He came on board to dine.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Slipped from the buoy. Sent a boat in for grub,
+standing off and on. Made fast to a buoy under
+breakwater.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Weather tide, nasty swell; felt too sea-sick to turn
+out before 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, when we got into Portland
+Roads. Took leave of kind host in time for mutton
+chops, wife dining with the Dean.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+May&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Forenoon church. Wife and I received Holy
+Sacrament, administered by the Dean, perhaps last time.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Visit from Rev. Charles Kingsley, the author, who
+stopped to dine with Dean, where we were.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Forenoon church. Dear old Dean still reading,
+or rather repeating by heart, the prayers as far as the
+Litany, in which he included the Collect for the day—Trinity
+Sunday.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bishopstoke,
+May&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Telegraph from friend, Page C.E. Off to
+London; knowing how much I wanted a job, he
+informed me of his having undertaken to raise a large
+ironship, the <span class='ships'>London</span>, lying at the bottom of the Tay,
+below Dundee, and offered me the job of navigating
+her into dock, or some place where she could be got
+at for repair.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Was invited by the Committee to fill the chair at
+R.N. Club dinner to celebrate the anniversary of
+Howes’s victory, anniversary also of action between
+<span class='ships'>Shannon</span> and <span class='ships'>Chesapeake</span>. Poor little Fatshan forgotten!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span></p>
+
+<p>While sitting on bridge over the Itchen in garden,
+observed a tomtit’s nest in the muzzle of a gun
+captured on 1st of June in Fatshan Creek—curious
+the uses to which a gun may be put.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>By train to Dundee. Wife and I in possession of
+apartments at the Royal Hotel, where we expected to
+find Mr. Page.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dundee,
+June&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Found Mr. Secretary Cooper; no further difficulties.
+Visited wreck near low water with working
+party. The <span class='ships'>London</span> belonged to the London and
+Dundee Steam Company; in December last came in
+collision with a steam trader, <span class='ships'>Harvest Queen</span>; both
+vessels went down. <span class='ships'>Harvest Queen</span> got up, but being
+grounded on a bank, broke her back. Mr. Cooper,
+Secretary to the Company, very civil and obliging.
+Mr. Low, one of the Directors, also very civil. Page
+not arrived.</p>
+
+<p>Visited the <span class='ships'>London</span> in a steam tug. Two divers,
+under management of Mr. Gorman, Admiralty man.
+There is an ugly fracture on the starboard side,
+about fifteen feet to nothing, about three feet from
+the bottom iron, jagged on both sides, the fore side
+of fracture bent inward, on after side, outwards,
+supposed to be done at the time the <span class='ships'>Harvest Queen</span>
+separated by backing astern. Proposed to cover the
+hatchway on main deck with coverings secured.
+Divers report that seals have taken up their quarters
+in the state-rooms, and haddocks swim freely in the
+’tween decks.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Change of Ministry—Lord Derby, Prime Minister;
+Sir John Pakington, First Lord; Vice-Admiral
+Sir Alexander Milne, First Sea. <em>This</em> does not break
+my heart.</p>
+
+<p>Saturday, a drunken day amongst workmen in
+Scotland, or the <span class='ships'>London</span> might, I think, have been
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span>lifted. 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Sunday morning before we got
+back.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>Raising the <span class='ships'>London</span> proved a failure, and after
+spending two months in Dundee, where wife and self
+were hospitably entertained by friends, we returned
+to Bishopstoke at the end of August, Colin and
+May having benefited by the bracing Scotch air.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXIV">
+    CHAPTER LXXXIV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Command in China</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1866.
+Dec.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>I insert the following by kind permission:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address-left'>
+<p class='no-indent'>(<em>Private.</em>)</p>
+</div>
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Oakley Park, Scole, Norfolk</span>,</p>
+<p class='center'><i>December 12, 1866</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Sir Henry</span>—I am glad to be able to tell you
+that I received a letter from Sir John Pakington this morning,
+announcing his intention of offering you, with the
+Queen’s approval, the China Command, as Admiral King is
+going to give up, and I am only too happy if I have in any
+small way been the means of getting Sir John to give you
+this Command.</p>
+
+<p>Both he and the whole Admiralty are very well disposed
+towards you, and I am sure that you will do all in your power
+to show them that you are anxious to distinguish yourself
+during this Command, as you always have done on previous
+occasions.—Believe me, yours very sincerely,</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr1'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Albert Edward</span>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>God bless the Prince of Wales!</p>
+
+<p>A letter from Sir John Pakington followed.</p>
+
+<p>The gratification this afforded me I cannot well
+describe. The five long years’ treatment I had received
+at the hands of the Admiralty fretted me.</p>
+
+<p>The want of a residence, the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong,
+as well as the improbability of the flagship
+remaining there for more than a few days at a time,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span>now that a Commodore has been appointed: the
+unsettled state of our relations with Japan, as well as
+the uncertainty of the period that I might retain the
+Command (being only five from the top of the list of
+Vice-Admirals), were only a few of the difficulties of a
+wife in China. However, I persuaded her to give
+up all idea of going with me, promising, if at the end
+of my first year there were two Vice-Admirals on the
+list above me, she might come out with the children.</p>
+
+<p>Letters of congratulation flowed in from kind
+friends. From the Prince of Wales; dear Dean
+Garnier; one from Charles Kingsley, which much
+pleased me.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address-left'>
+<p>(<em>Copy</em>)</p>
+</div>
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">Eversley Rectory, Winchfield</span>,</p>
+<p class='center'><i>December 17, 1866</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Admiral</span>—I have this moment heard that
+you are to have the China Squadron. Accept my most
+cordial congratulations, most disinterested ones, likewise, for
+I am afraid that I shall not have the pleasure of seeing you
+for some time to come. May you prosper and enjoy yourself
+as you deserve, and kill a few more pirates: they seem
+to be wanting you again in those parts. Believe me, with
+most kind regards to Lady Keppel, ever yours, overjoyed,</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr1'>  (Signed) <span class="smcap">C. Kingsley</span>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Letters from shipmates, down to my old steward,
+William White, now an Admiralty messenger, came
+pouring in, together with applications from and about
+officers to be appointed, giving me more than enough
+to do. Besides the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of
+Buccleuch and Richmond, as well as my kind kinsman,
+Peregrine Cust, interested themselves in getting me
+employment.</p>
+
+<p>King, in command in China, had expressed a
+wish to be relieved without delay. His flagship, the
+<span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span>, was ordered down to Singapore so
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span>as to save the last of the northerly monsoon, bringing
+the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, commanded by my old friend and shipmate,
+Francis Suttie, to receive my flag.</p>
+
+<p>I was ordered a passage by the overland route, to
+leave Southampton on February 20, 1867. Risk,
+paymaster in the <span class='ships'>Alert</span>, then in the Pacific, and Harry
+Stephenson, commanding a gunboat on the Lakes of
+Canada, were ordered home as my Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant,
+and I selected friend Heneage as Captain.</p>
+
+<p>I was invited by the Prince of Wales to Sandringham
+to take leave, and afterwards accompanied their
+Royal Highnesses to Holkham for the Christmas
+week. On the way back stopped a day at Quidenham,
+and one with friend General Eyre, who had taken
+Garboldisham.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1867.
+Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>On January 21 went to Sheerness and hoisted
+flag on board the <span class='ships'>Cumberland</span>, which was in due form
+saluted by the flagship of Sir Baldwin Walker, who
+kindly took us into Admiralty House. At the same
+time was hoisted the pennant on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, then
+in the basin.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to London. Having received a letter
+from Cowell stating that he had received Her
+Majesty’s command to invite me to Windsor on
+February 25, to stay till the following day, the
+Admiralty ordered my passage <i lang='la'>viâ</i> Marseilles instead
+of Southampton, giving me four or five days’ grace.</p>
+
+<p>Went by invitation, to Miss Burdett-Coutts at
+Torquay to take leave of my valued friend Rajah
+Brooke, who had lately had a paralytic stroke.
+Found him partially recovered, but spirits good and
+his powerful mind apparently unaffected. (I never
+saw him again.) Left early to join wife, staying
+with the Custs at Bournemouth. Taking leave of
+these most kind and hospitable relations we returned
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>to Bishopstoke for the last days. General Charles
+Fox had kindly offered his house, Addison Road,
+Kensington: our likenesses being painted by Henry
+Graves had yet to be finished.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Farewell dinner with H.R.H. the Prince of
+Wales.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Went down to Windsor. At Paddington found
+Lady Caroline Barrington, availing myself of the
+carriage sent for her when we reached Windsor.
+Dined, a household dinner, Lady Caroline Barrington
+and Miss Macdonald in waiting with Biddulph
+and Cowell. After dinner, was summoned into the
+presence of Her Majesty in the corridor, the Queen
+still wearing the widow’s cap. However, I was received
+with one of Her Majesty’s pleasantest smiles, and
+after some twelve minutes’ conversation, chiefly about
+the Duke of Edinburgh and Count Gleichen, I was
+graciously dismissed. Cowell saw me into my train.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Risk, lately married, was likewise ordered a passage
+<i lang='la'>viâ</i> Marseilles. My boy stated when he saw me off
+in the train at Bishopstoke that “Dadda would get
+out at the China station!” Found French steam
+packet at Dover; rail to Paris and Marseilles, where
+we arrived at 12.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Took possession of the
+cabin allotted me on board the mail steamer, opening
+into the saloon!</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXV">
+    CHAPTER LXXXV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Bound for China</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1867.
+Malta,
+Mar.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March
+2nd when we arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget
+came off; we landed together. Rem Macdonald
+kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the
+Carnival commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty
+House and re-embarked.</p>
+
+<p>We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria
+on the 7th. Here, met my old friend James
+Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint Superintendent,
+with a military man, to attend the transit
+through Egypt of our troops to India. It was about
+four when we reached Cairo. Here we were joined by
+Harry Stephenson, who had come <i lang='la'>viâ</i> Southampton.
+We were informed that we were not to go on to
+Suez until the following day. A rush was made to
+secure beds. The best had been already bespoken by
+the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson
+had thought of us and secured rooms. The transit
+through Egypt is managed by the Government.
+Most of the officials are French and wear the fez
+and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the
+time, with equal ease.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>We made another start at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> and took a
+plentiful supply of oranges, which we found agreeable
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span>crossing the desert. At Suez I found another friend
+in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer
+<span class='ships'>Surat</span>; we first became acquainted when he was in
+command of one of the hired transports at Balaklava.
+He kindly took me in his gig to visit the
+great dock and engineering works carried on by
+the French under M. de Lesseps. Time, money,
+and perseverance will, I believe, complete the great
+work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at
+no distant period of being able to pass a ship of the
+line from the Mediterranean to the Red Sea. No
+English capitalists have, however, invested a shilling
+in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for
+an amount of abuse, attributing our reluctance to
+share in the French glory to bad motives.</p>
+
+<p>We did not get away until the morning of the 9th.
+Among our passengers was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed
+Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers on
+Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse.
+On Perim we have a lighthouse: some eight years
+ago, the mail steamer on passing observed a French
+brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the
+next day the French captain mentioned to Colonel
+Coghlan, the Governor of Aden, with whom he was
+dining, that he was going the next morning to take
+possession of Perim in the name of the French
+Government. Coghlan, without rising from table,
+or taking any apparent notice of what had been said,
+pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the
+Captain of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once
+with a party and hoist the British colours on the
+island. The French captain’s disappointment the
+next day when he found himself forestalled would
+have been worth seeing. A correspondence took
+place between the two Governments; when it was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span>proved that we had prior possession during our war
+with France, when we retained Perim, but under a
+promise we should not fortify it.</p>
+
+<p>Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or
+thereabouts.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Aden,
+Mar.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden.
+The Resident, Colonel Merewether, immediately sent
+off to invite me to Government House while the
+<span class='ships'>Surat</span> coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing
+place. It was pleasant to get into a cool airy house,
+and to write one’s letters in peace and quiet. After
+dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to see those
+wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned,
+whose ancient date no one has been able to decide.
+The cement with which the rock’s sides and bottom
+of the ravine are lined, as well as the steps, is as perfect
+and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They
+had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct
+was in progress, which will shortly bring a supply
+from a stream some six miles distant. Experienced
+much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Galle,
+Mar.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>The cleanliness and comfort of the <span class='ships'>Surat</span> spoilt us
+for any other vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at
+Point de Galle at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the 23rd, we were transferred
+to <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span>. The yards were manned as the
+last little attention the Captain could pay me on
+quitting the ship. On landing at Point de Galle I
+was received by Colonel Hodgson, Brigadier-General
+and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George
+II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore
+Keppel had been selected to act together for the
+capture of Belle Isle from the French: a friendship
+between the families was then established and has
+continued ever since. We passed the heat of the
+day in the “Queen’s House,” occupied by the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>General, who, after having entertained us at dinner,
+embarked with us on board the <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span>: he going
+to the Straits Settlements on an official inspection.</p>
+
+<p>We found the <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span> comparatively small, ill
+ventilated, with a suffocating smell of opium. But
+there was the same civility and attention that we had
+experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s
+ships.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Penang,
+Mar.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore
+during the six hours the steamer was to stay, and
+visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs. Lewis,
+both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of
+former days still remaining.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel,
+as well as by a good light on Cape Ricardo.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Singapore,
+Mar.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Sunday at 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the <span class='ships'>Ottawa</span> steamed alongside
+the P. and O. Company’s wharf in New Harbour,
+Singapore. Captains Edge of <span class='ships'>Satellite</span>, Ross of <span class='ships'>Pearl</span>,
+Menzies of <span class='ships'>Osprey</span>, and Suttie of <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> were there
+to receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the
+Governor’s secretary, Mr. Plow, brother to a lad
+who was with me in the <span class='ships'>Forte</span>. Many other
+friends were also there.</p>
+
+<p>As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be
+installed in due form on the morrow, a few arrangements
+for salutes and officers’ attendance had to be
+made. At 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> my flag was hoisted on board
+the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> and I became Commander-in-Chief of
+the China station, and, being senior, at once
+assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived
+the salute until the following morning. On landing
+was driven by friend Read to his house, where, by
+previous arrangement, took up my quarters.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills,
+each of which is crowned by a residence. On looking
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span>out in the early morning from the verandah, an
+extensive view in front of the town and anchorage,
+and from behind of the country inland. How many
+associations of bygone days—some sad, but many
+more, pleasant—were brought to mind.</p>
+
+<p>The morning commenced by saluting my flag.
+At noon we repaired to the Town Hall to assist in
+the inauguration of the new Governor, and the transfer
+of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the
+Colonial Government. Separate salutes were fired on
+each occasion: an event in the history of Singapore.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown,
+which was close to a landing-place, for an office, and
+the business of the station under the new Chief was
+commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied
+much time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the
+Governor, the Military and Naval Commanders-in-Chief,
+were the order of the day. The weather was
+hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious
+dinners told.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than
+was expected, the <span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span> hove in sight. It
+seldom happens that a Commander-in-Chief is relieved
+by a senior, and more than the usual amount of
+jealousy between those in command and those whose
+reign was so suddenly at an end took place. However,
+I found my old friend George King the same
+as ever. Inspected <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> and examined the
+comfortable quarters that had been fitted for the
+use of self and staff.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Returned King’s visit; was received on board
+<span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span> with manned yards; finished with an
+excellent luncheon and inspection of the many curios
+collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus
+Hill on board in R.M.L.I.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Princess Royal</span> was off at daylight. Had King
+been senior, I have no doubt but that he would have
+remained longer.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> started in advance of us for Sarawak.
+Ross had permission to use his own discretion about
+going up to the town. Paid a visit to the Tumongong
+of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I
+recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances.
+He has been to England, received at Court,
+and decorated with the Star of India.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Singapore,
+April 14.</div>
+
+<p>Among the improvements at Singapore is an
+exceedingly neat and handsome church. No want of
+opportunities for writing to England, as the French
+packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O.
+Company.</p>
+
+<p>There are few ships without a favourite dog—in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> Suttie has one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel
+and great favourite. On shore he can take his own
+part, although not too big. He is besides a good
+pointer as well as retriever.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the
+<span class='ships'>Satellite</span> as well as that for our departure for Sarawak,
+Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong. Before leaving
+the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the
+French Consul, who was very anxious that we
+should join his nation in avenging the defeat they
+had experienced last year at the hands of the
+Coreans.</p>
+
+<p>While I was inspecting the <span class='ships'>Satellite</span>, my friend
+General Hodgson, with Colonel Young, went on board
+the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, which then got under weigh, W. H. Read
+and Goodlake with us. <span class='ships'>Satellite</span> hoisted flag and
+saluted the General on his leaving. There was consternation
+on board on its being discovered that Carlo
+was nowhere to be found. His description was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span>written out and a reward offered on shore for his
+recovery, but it was unfortunately the season when
+the policemen are directed to destroy all stray dogs.
+Alas, poor Carlo!</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+April 16.</div>
+
+<p>Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa
+Palm islands floating ahead, and not having gone to
+quarters when I inspected the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, I thought this
+would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters
+and opened fire on the floating island.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of the rushing about incidental to
+going to quarters, and with the first cartridge, who
+should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping with
+delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome
+little dog! the last time the magazine was opened was
+on Sunday, when the gunner went down at 8.40 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
+to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it being
+dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he
+existed or what his feelings were in that atmosphere
+he knows best. If I had not fancied the Nipa Palm
+for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered
+or starved to death.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sarawak.</div>
+
+<p>Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu;
+before eight we had passed the Santobong entrance,
+and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood
+for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River.
+These bold headlands and magnificent scenery,
+although I had visited them frequently since, brought
+fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago,
+when I first came up in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span> with James Brooke
+on board, and gave the first, and nearly the only,
+help he ever had in securing his position; thereby
+enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for
+the benefit of a strange race. If he has not succeeded
+to the full extent of his, then, sanguine hopes, still
+there is no man living or to come who, single-handed,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span>will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent
+Brooke has.</p>
+
+<p>In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were
+the order of the day. The sail of a peaceful
+trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a fisherman’s
+hut along the length of this beautiful coast.
+Far into the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred
+on one another. Now, how different! Huts and
+fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast;
+the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>
+had scarcely 800 inhabitants, now has a population
+of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of the aborigines
+who called themselves warriors are now peaceful
+traders and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is
+fast being cleared to make way for farms; and to
+prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts
+has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle—far from
+being the most productive soil that could be found—where
+everything that is likely to thrive within the
+tropics will be introduced into this model farm.
+Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and
+oranges were doing well. Rice and sago, mulberry
+trees to feed silkworms, were all in progress.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we
+found the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> had proceeded up, drawing over 19
+feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up this beautiful
+river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which
+I so nearly lost the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, I found that my ill-luck in
+finding the bottom had not forsaken me. I believe
+the helm was ported to avoid running down a canoe
+that attempted to cross our bows. And we were
+bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide
+we did not remain, but we knew not until long
+afterwards what mischief was done.</p>
+
+<p>On approaching the capital, the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> saluted my
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span>flag, and after coming to an anchor higher up, she
+hoisted the flag and saluted that of Sarawak. A
+guard of honour received me on landing, where I was
+met by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson,
+now Tuan Muda. He had changed his name to that
+of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a name
+he was then unfit for! <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> had not escaped the
+<span class='ships'>Dido</span> rocks, and Captain Ross brought on board
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> a piece of false keel and sheets of copper,
+which divers found displaced! These accidents are
+sad bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to
+establish a reputation at the Admiralty as a cautious
+and careful chief.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Pearl</span> started against the afternoon flood-tide to
+precede us to Labuan. We remained a few days to
+enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan Muda, who repeatedly
+expressed the good effect our visit would
+have—the influence which would be felt to the farther
+end of the Rajah’s dominions.</p>
+
+<p>All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah
+Laut” (Sea King) as they styled me, but most of my
+original friends who had fought for the suppression
+of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of
+that stirring time were fresh in the memory of the
+children, and old Patingi Alli’s son was now one of
+the principal chiefs, a most useful and worthy man.
+His gallant old father was killed with many others
+while serving with the <span class='ships'>Dido’s</span> boats.</p>
+
+<p>In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda
+along a two-mile road, cut through that ever interesting
+and magnificent jungle.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>About three in the afternoon we took our departure,
+the Tuan Muda having supplied us with
+turkeys and geese that would have done credit to a
+Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span>Dyak swords, some deer horns and alligators’ eggs,
+were among the curios we brought away.</p>
+
+<p>The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike,
+with a determination not to be surpassed,
+with a sense of justice—qualifications fully appreciated
+by the chiefs.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Labuan,
+April 22.</div>
+
+<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan.
+Several old friends came on board—Hugh Low,
+Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour
+Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr.
+Treacher, one of the Rajah’s earliest followers. Each
+of them I had known some twenty years before. All
+the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard
+to receive me on landing, when I became the guest
+of my friend Low. His daughter has just come out
+from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite seventeen.
+Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and
+came out with me in the <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>. I was present
+at her wedding with Low. The poor girl died at
+Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her,
+was but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one
+of the loveliest spots of Low’s beautiful garden,
+hidden from view by a grove of orange trees. The
+boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De
+Crespigny kindly added to my collection of shells.
+Harry Stephenson and self were put up at Government
+House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being
+the bearer of a letter from Yelverton, were received
+elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Salamis</span> proceeded in the afternoon to Coal
+Point. The island of Labuan having been ceded
+by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession of in
+the name of the Government by Captain Rodney
+Mundy under Sir Thomas Cochrane, on account
+of the coal mines. These mines, owing to bad
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>management and a jobbing company, have not
+succeeded as they might have done, but the island
+has been useful in other ways. Our occupation has
+driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still
+rife to the eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has
+likewise had a check, and their treatment on the
+opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known
+that slaves have only to escape to British territory to
+be free. Power has passed from the Sultan and his
+chiefs.</p>
+
+<p>We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has
+been replaced by a native agent. The United States
+are represented by a disagreeable scamp named Moss,
+who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded
+the Sultan to cede to him a portion of the north-eastern
+coast, as well as some of the adjacent
+islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just
+claim; fortunately no valid agreement was drawn
+up. When Mr. Moss had to make a first deposit, no
+money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman, by
+name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go
+partners on condition that the property ceded was
+to be placed in his name.&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_4_4" href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> The title-deeds were
+returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime
+they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and
+the Sultan retained the title-deeds, which Mr. Moss
+wished to have returned to him.</p>
+
+<p>As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he
+decided on the dodge of setting fire to his own house,
+and accused the Sultan of having instigated his people
+to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the detention
+of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification.
+But the cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span>of his having removed his wife and small effects to
+Labuan a few days previously, and then the statement
+that he was fired on twelve times with musketry,
+which no one heard, are facts.</p>
+
+<p>On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode
+through the magnificent jungle peculiar to Labuan,
+by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought us there.
+At 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> went on board <span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, under manned
+yards, and inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed
+in the afternoon for Hong-Kong; we took until
+night to complete coal and followed in the morning;
+steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect
+of fine weather.</p>
+
+<div class='footnotes'>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_4_4" href="#FNanchor_4_4" class="label">[4]</a> This portion of the island was ceded to the British North
+Borneo Company by Royal Charter in 1881.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXVI">
+    CHAPTER LXXXVI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1867.
+Hong-Kong,
+April 30.</div>
+
+<p>On the 30th April found myself once more entering
+Hong-Kong by the Lyemoon passage. Commodore
+Oliver Jones’s broad
+pennant was flying in
+the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>,
+a huge three-decker,
+painted yellow and
+white, and looking
+shorter and higher
+than any Ning Po
+junk. A small fleet
+of gunboats looking
+very like business.
+Stopped on board to
+receive the usual
+official visits.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_129'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_129.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>The Commodore.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>At noon the shore
+guns fired a salute,
+which was cleverly
+returned by the gunboats firing in succession. The
+Governor having sent to know the time when I
+landed, at 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> was received by Colonel Guy and
+a guard of 73rd Regiment. His Excellency, Sir
+Richard MacDonnell, having sent his carriage, I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span>went, accompanied by the Commodore and Flag-Lieutenant,
+at once to get visit of ceremony over.
+We found His Excellency and charming wife. Took
+up my quarters with old friend John Dent at the
+palace of Dent and Co.; a room was allotted for
+Harry Stephenson, as well as for W. H. Read. The
+flag was transferred to the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hong-kong.</div>
+
+<p>The Opera company small, but for a beginning very
+fair, and included three French ballet dancers. My
+conveyance was a chair with four bearers, good-tempered
+fellows whom no work could tire. Was
+made an honorary member of the Artillery and
+Engineers, as well as of the 73rd Mess. The wife of
+Colonel Guy was the eldest daughter of my old chief
+Admiral Plumridge, as was also Mrs. Cumming in
+the same regiment, by his second wife.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Read, Stephenson and self went to Macao, in an
+American-built steamer running between Macao and
+Hong-Kong. Nothing could be cleaner or more
+comfortable than these vessels.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>We left Hong-Kong at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> and entered the
+inner harbour three hours and a half later. We put
+up at the house of Dent and Co., provisions and
+servants having been sent with us. Considerable improvement
+had been effected by the last governor in
+roads, cleanliness of streets, etc. A lighthouse had
+also been built, but as these improvements required
+money that might otherwise have been remitted to
+the mother country, the governor was not allowed to
+remain. After dinner we visited the gambling-houses,
+recently licensed, curious to see, but too hot
+to remain in for many minutes.</p>
+
+<p>The rules of the game appeared to me less unfair for
+the player than most games of the sort. A small square
+cloth in the centre of the table is marked 1, 2, 3, and 4
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span>on the sides. Before placing your stake, a heap of small
+pice is placed by the dealer or keeper before him on
+the table, which is partially covered by a cup, the
+pice are then withdrawn by a pointed stick or long
+steel needle. As each four are separated they are
+swept into the original heap from which the handful
+had just been taken. Four at a time are so withdrawn
+until the last lot, under five, remain. It is
+according to the number left whether 1, 2, 3 or 4 win.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, if three remain, and you put your
+money on, you get three times your stake. I was
+next an American gentleman who had had a dream
+in which No. 1 was the winning number; in backing
+his dream he had lost $1400.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">May 6
+to 14.</div>
+
+<p>On Sunday 5th the English mail arrived at Hong-Kong.
+Our letters were sent to us in one of the
+gunboats, the first letters we had received since
+leaving home. All good news with the exception of
+the death of Sir Phipps Hornby, removing one admiral
+from the active list, and rendering the probability
+of my completing my three years less.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hong-kong.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to Hong-Kong in time for Dent’s
+breakfast. Tuesday, visited the new docks, which
+are being excavated at Aberdeen, magnificent docks,
+400 feet long, capable of holding any ironclad likely
+to be sent to this station.</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon, partly walking and partly being
+carried in chairs, we went over the island by the gap
+to Dent’s house at Pokofolum, which must be a delightful
+residence in the S.W. monsoon: it has both a vegetable
+and flower garden. Some Formosa fallow-deer
+were thriving in a secured place. Being pressed for
+time, we returned in our chairs, Overbeck on foot, and
+reached the town-house in forty-seven minutes! Six
+miles. I had to dine at Government House, a large
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>party. Commodore Jones entertains lavishly. He
+gave me an excellent dinner the other day. His
+quarters on board the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span> are roomy,
+airy, and most comfortable. Dined also a large
+party, with Mr. Whittal, Jardine and Matheson’s
+representative. They have a very nice house prettily
+situated on a hill. The table, furniture, etc., were as
+good as money could procure. Around the rooms
+were some superb race cups, such as I fancied were
+only to be seen on the front of the stand at Goodwood.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Whampoa,
+May&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Harry Stephenson and I started by packet steamer
+for Whampoa. Fine boats, American build, leave
+Hong-Kong and Canton every morning, meeting
+somewhere about the Bogue Forts. They now belong
+to a company, and fly the English flag. They
+perform the journey generally within eight hours,
+carrying cargo, many Chinese passengers and a few
+Europeans, seldom more than ten.</p>
+
+<p>We got out at Whampoa to see the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> and
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> in dock. <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> but little damaged, a small
+portion of her fore-foot and false keel. More serious
+the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>: four-and-twenty of her timbers fractured,
+and damage to keel; necessary to take out two foremost
+boilers, both of which required repair. Advantage
+of this opportunity was taken to have accommodation
+on deck improved. All the work well superintended
+and conducted by Mr. Gillies, a most useful servant
+to the Dock Company.</p>
+
+<p>Went on in the <span class='ships'>Banterer</span>, commanded by my old
+shipmate Pringle, to Canton, but even this small vessel
+could not keep off the bottom while I was on board—passing
+the second barrier she bumped heavily, and,
+as I found afterwards, rubbed copper off.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Canton,
+May&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>We anchored off, what I recollect as a densely
+populated floating street of flower boats. All
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>that portion of the river has since been walled
+and filled in, forming an island on which were
+the foreign consulates and residences. The island
+retains the name of Shaimen. On landing I was
+received by the Consul-General, Robertson, and,
+after looking over the buildings, we, Stephenson and
+self, got into chairs, and proceeded into the city
+of Canton, the Consul’s residence being within the
+Tartar quarter and interior wall, inside this great
+walled city, closed for so many centuries against all
+foreigners.</p>
+
+<p>We traversed nearly three miles of narrow,
+densely-populated streets before we reached the
+Tartar yamun. Robertson had the good taste
+not to alter anything beyond the addition of a little
+European furniture. The building was old, and I
+occupied a bed which had most likely been slept in by
+some Tartar general when they captured Canton from
+the Chinese in the seventeenth century. At the back
+of the house were a court and out-buildings, and the
+remains of a large building which caught fire, nobody
+knew how, when occupied by our troops in 1861.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond this again was a park-like enclosure, containing
+small hills, trees, and deer. Although not more
+than 15 acres, the extent was great when you consider
+that it was in the heart of a densely-populated
+walled city. The weather was bad, and we did not
+see half of what we might had we had more time.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing, however is more curious than the city
+itself, the shops and the narrow streets along which
+our chairmen travelled at what appeared a reckless
+pace, bellowing to make people get out of the way,
+but somehow hurting nobody. We visited some of
+the prisons containing culprits under sentence of
+death; they appeared indifferent as to their fate,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span>looked and laughed at us. Others at work making
+or embroidering clothes—not for themselves. About
+1500 are executed annually! At the entrance gate
+to the Tartar General’s yamun are large figures of
+nondescript animals carved in granite and of great
+antiquity.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>My friend Robertson bore a strong resemblance
+to Lord Nelson and Lord John Russell. Whether
+he had guests or not he sat daily at the head of his
+dinner-table in great form. A row of servants on
+the right, with several dogs in front, all looking
+equally solemn. On the left was a long sideboard
+variously ornamented; plates and cups of silver.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner, when everything was quiet, I noticed
+rats playing about, picking up crumbs the Consul had
+thrown out during dinner. I drew his attention to
+them and proposed to set the dogs on; to which
+Robertson objected, saying they did no harm, and
+that if frightened they would throw out such a
+stench of musk no one could stay in the room. The
+deer in his park would scarcely move out of his way.</p>
+
+<p>Took leave of our kind host, who would accompany
+us to the steamer, lying ready alongside a wharf built
+in front of the site of the old factories, where, some
+quarter of a century before, when in command of
+the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, I had passed many pleasant days. Not a
+vestige remains to indicate the site.</p>
+
+<p>Accompanying the captain round the decks and
+among the various groups of Chinamen, some gambling,
+others opium-smoking, we came to the women’s
+department, old and young, with children of various
+ages—some at the breast. In the fore part of all I
+observed three old hags of repulsive aspect; some had
+three or four infants slung around them, varying in age
+from two months to a year. These, I found, were for
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>sale, a ready market being found among the less poor
+Chinawomen of Hong-Kong; the price asked me for
+the finest was four dollars, but that was an exorbitant
+demand. How the old hags came by the children
+is all conjecture.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hong-Kong,
+May&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Returned to Hong-Kong. In the afternoon
+accompanied the Governor to visit Stone Cutter’s
+Island, on which his predecessor had built a magnificent
+prison, but which, owing to the energetic
+measures lately adopted for ridding the island of
+bad characters and marking the worst in the face
+and publicly scourging those that return, crime
+has so much diminished that the prison in Hong-Kong
+is found sufficient to accommodate those that
+require such lodgings.</p>
+
+<p>His Excellency’s visit on this occasion was to
+ascertain the opinion of the Commodore and myself
+as to the feasibility of transferring the naval establishment
+to the island. The position would have
+been good had it been selected at first, but as
+£200,000 has been laid out on the one in Victoria
+the Board of Admiralty would not be likely to
+sanction the extra expense. There is no doubt
+that the naval and military establishments in Victoria
+are considerable obstructions to the improvement
+of the city, and prevent the continuation of a
+sea or harbour frontage and sea wall, with a road,
+or praya, which is intersected for more than 3000
+feet at the part occupied by us and the military.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Pearl</span> being ready for sea the flag was shifted
+from the <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span> to her.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Being Her Majesty’s Birthday the ships were
+dressed with masthead flags, and at noon a general
+royal salute was fired, batteries and ourselves, the
+reports sounding with great effect under the high
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span>land. Soirée at Government House, everybody
+attending.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Pearl</span>,
+May&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Embarked on board <span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, when I was received
+with manned yards, to visit different parts of the
+station. <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> still under repair. At 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> returned
+the Commodore’s salute and steamed out of
+Hong-Kong by the Cap Sing Moon passage, having
+been a month most kindly and hospitably entertained
+by John Dent and his cheery and good partner
+Oberbeck.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Swatow,
+May&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>We arrived early off Swatow, but having to wait
+for water over the bar came to outside. It was
+9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before we brought up off the Consul’s house,
+on the right bank and opposite side to the town.
+These Swatow Chinese are a turbulent and troublesome
+set, hardly yet accustomed to the sojourn
+among them of the hated barbarian. An attempt
+made by a Mr. Richardson to establish in a house he
+had built and furnished a few miles up the river was
+opposed by the natives, over whom the authorities
+appear to have little or no control. They damaged
+the house, carried off the furniture, and ill-treated
+Mr. Richardson’s servants. The gunboat <span class='ships'>Drake</span>
+had gone up to look after other matters. The
+Consul, Mr. Caine, was absent, and the duty done by
+his Vice, Mr. Cooper, who hailed from Norfolk, and
+had a pretty wife and a boy nearly as fine as my
+Colin.</p>
+
+<p>We exchanged visits, the Consul getting his
+salute. Swatow is an uninteresting place to the
+visitor, but an extensive trade is carried on from a
+large city some distance up, Ch’ao-Chow-fu. In the
+month of March last the U.S. barque <span class='ships'>Rover</span> sailed
+from Swatow, got into a gale off Formosa, struck on
+a rock, made more water than the pumps could keep
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span>under, when the captain and crew took to the boats
+and saw their ship founder.</p>
+
+<p>The captain had his wife and first mate with
+him and a Chinese crew, in another boat was a
+mate and also a Chinese crew. The boats separated,
+and after a while the captain landed on
+the southern coast of Formosa, and while preparing
+a meal was attacked. They retreated to
+hide themselves in the jungle, and all were supposed
+to have been murdered with the exception of one
+Chinaman, who hid himself until dark and then
+found his way to a China village some twelve miles off.</p>
+
+<p>He subsequently reached Amoy, where he found
+no American man-of-war, so went to the <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>
+and stated the above facts to Commander Broad, who
+lost no time in proceeding to the spot; he found the
+<span class='ships'>Rover’s</span> boat where her captain had left her, but on
+attempting a further examination he was fired on
+from the jungle. His boat was shot through and
+one man wounded. Unable to see his foe, after sending
+a few rounds into the jungle he wisely withdrew.
+The United States Admiral sent a small vessel, which
+could get no satisfaction, and consequently could give
+none to the friends of the missing captain and his
+wife.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Swatow,
+May&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>During the afternoon of the Wednesday an old
+American acquaintance of former years at Whampoa,
+Mr. Botefuhr, came on board to solicit interference
+and assistance from me, which he stated
+he had in vain applied for to his own Admiral.
+Botefuhr’s wife is sister to the wife of the captain
+of the <span class='ships'>Rover</span>, and although it is known that many
+were killed there is as yet no positive proof that the
+captain and his wife were slain. My poor friend
+clung to the hope that the savages would not have
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span>the heart to murder one so fair as his sister-in-law,
+who was so young, and, as he described her, “only
+a few months married, comely to look on, and of
+nice proportions.” It is difficult for me to interfere
+without causing jealousy on the part of the
+United States Admiral. My friend, Botefuhr, has
+already drawn comparisons not complimentary to his
+countryman.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Started in charge of a pilot, a European, of whom
+there are seven, at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, having crossed the bar,
+found the wind fresh from the N.E., and shaped our
+course inside the Namoa Island, during daylight the
+pleasantest route; finding the wind freshening we
+brought up for the night in Tong Sang, a well-sheltered
+anchorage.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Weather fine, at 5 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> steamed out; performed
+the 74 miles to Amoy with three boilers in seven
+hours.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXVII">
+    CHAPTER LXXXVII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">North China Ports</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1867.
+Amoy,
+May&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>At Amoy we found the <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, a pretty fast
+despatch gunboat, Commander Broad, whose master
+came with him and piloted us to a berth in the inner
+harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own
+smart master, who might have made a mistake in
+the passage between the town and the island of
+Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was celebrated
+for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of
+course there are many others, but none to be compared
+to it.</p>
+
+<p>The trade here, although one of the first ports
+open to foreigners, is not equal to Swatow. It
+is one of the outlets for the enormous province
+of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a
+rare animal here in the shape of a really <em>active</em>
+Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of his
+station is unusual, although it is supposed that time,
+place and opportunity offering, his cruisers are not
+above levying blackmail. A good dock, 286 feet long,
+and capable, owing to a great rise and fall of tide,
+of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which
+the <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> will go on Tuesday next for repairs.
+Our Consul appears to be conspicuously and well-housed
+on the highest part of Kulangsau, commanding
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span>a view both up and down the river. On this island
+most Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town
+of Amoy. Coal to be had, and always ready, but the
+coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or twelve-ton boats.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6.
+A wonderful change is here! No news of importance.
+Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations
+hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but
+those armed to the teeth are not so easily kept in
+check. The only really sad news from England is
+the continued suffering of that most amiable of all
+Princesses.</p>
+
+<p>Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on
+board him by a suspicious-looking junk, manned and
+armed for war, but there was no proof of aggression.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> In excellent order.
+Received with manned yards. No room for ball
+practice, but clear for action, and guns loaded within
+three minutes. Noon.—Weighed in <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> and steamed
+out, two boilers. An old <span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, Shearman,
+chief engineer.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and
+a pilot shortly on board. Although we made sail,
+we were too late to save the high water over the bar;
+brought up until the morning. While at anchor
+observed numbers of curious-looking snakes floating
+past; they did not appear lively, and the pilot pronounced
+them to have been washed out of the paddyfields.
+Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared
+more dead than alive, and it was with difficulty that
+we discovered its mouth and something like eyes; it
+was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and as
+transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was
+a piece of seaweed, even after handling.</p>
+
+<p>The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span>different parts of the body it had the appearance of
+having been ripped in two by a piece of thread tied
+round the body. Some one on board had read in
+some book that if you broke these snakes at their
+apparent joints, each piece became a separate snake.
+The head was considerably thicker than the other part
+of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While
+moving in the water it looked like a lively and
+dangerous animal, but in a basin of water it was
+almost inanimate.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Soon after 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> weighed and steamed into the
+entrance of the river Min. Carrying the tide with us,
+we made rapid progress through a tortuous channel
+until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu
+Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the
+scenery, which again opens into a wide expanse for
+three or four miles, and then the channel enters
+between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of
+the scenery on the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island,
+where we anchored. The city of Foo-chow is some
+ten miles higher up, but to be approached only by
+small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships
+started last year, performing the most extraordinary
+sea race on record, the three ships arriving in London
+within a few hours of each other. Several are now
+loading and two or three are already off—beautiful
+ships, reminding one of fine old sailing days of <span class='ships'>Dido</span>,
+which class of ship they greatly resemble.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and
+steered for the Yang-tse-Kiang.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we
+came to in the evening off Woosung, doubtful
+whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we could
+proceed over the bar.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Having transported some of the guns forward, we
+crossed the bar and steamed up to Shanghai.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Shanghai.</div>
+
+<p>Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five
+years ago. It is difficult to recognise the Chinese
+element at all in this great commercial port; even the
+pilots are European. The buildings, roads, carriages,
+consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those
+vessels propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide
+from sight that Shanghai still belongs to China.
+French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are here.
+No saluting on account of close quarters.</p>
+
+<p>Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George
+Fitzroy and his wife, having known him from the time
+he was of the same age as a sweet little girl resembling
+what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is
+what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person.
+Although requiring quiet, had not time to frame
+an excuse before I found myself engaged to dine
+with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford
+Alcock, who is here making his annual tour of
+visits to the Consulates at the Treaty Ports; with
+him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman
+of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government
+to inspect and report on all buildings within its
+jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial, or military; also
+my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most
+efficient scholar and interpreter in China.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rattler</span>,
+June&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>A court-martial detained the <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> and <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>
+(in charge of station). <span class='ships'>Argus</span> also here, attending
+on the Minister, with a new commander just appointed
+in Hallowes.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Algerine</span>, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville,
+will proceed south as soon as her commander is clear
+of the doctor. We have also <span class='ships'>Acorn</span>, hospital ship,
+Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_142'>
+  <a href='images/i_142.jpg'><img class='h100' src='images/i_142-t.jpg' alt=''></a>
+  <figcaption>Map—Eastern Archipelago</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at
+Consulate on Tuesday, was pleased at meeting Sir
+Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit
+to Peking.</p>
+
+<p>We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away
+from any river frontage, and as inconveniently situated
+as a place of the sort could be. An advantageous
+sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site, might
+now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with
+the necessary power.</p>
+
+<p>The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised
+me some good shooting, three days’ journey
+from this, in the proper season, after September.
+Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co.
+Independent of the ruin of so many poorer people,
+that of John Dent causes universal sympathy and
+regret.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Manila</span>,
+June&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Shifted flag from <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> on board <span class='ships'>Manila</span>. At
+noon sailed, having
+written the Commodore
+of my intention to go to
+Nagasaki, which may
+reach Hong-Kong in
+time to save his going
+to Shanghai. Yesterday
+the Fitzroys had a dinner
+party, including the
+Minister, the <i lang='fr'>attaché</i>,
+Conolly, Wade, and
+Commander Swan.
+Birds’-nest soup.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_143'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_143.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Sir Rutherford Alcock.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Had conversation
+with Sir Rutherford as
+to the next steps towards
+the suppression of piracy. We agreed that
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span>the disarming, as far as heavy guns were concerned,
+of all traders was necessary. He thought the
+Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed
+wish to put it down. The promised co-operation
+with other European Powers is necessary to prevent
+jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence
+of a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable
+interpreters should be found for our cruisers.</p>
+
+<p>After I have consulted with my brother Admirals
+of France and United States, Russia, Prussia and
+Netherlands too, if I can get them, intend to address
+Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do
+likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford
+agreed with me that the small Portuguese settlement
+of Macao was a nuisance—the haunt of pirates: the
+centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped coolies,
+worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides,
+the Portuguese have no legal right to Macao.</p>
+
+<p>To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about
+the middle of September, so as to have a walk on the
+hills where all the Foreign Ministers reside during the
+hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the last week
+in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that
+he could easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the
+species of pheasant so coveted by Lord de Grey.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nagasaki,
+June&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful
+harbour of Nagasaki. Feeling still invalidy, took
+advantage of a lull to land in a boat brought off from
+shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his
+prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a
+hill. Flag was shifted to <span class='ships'>Pelorus</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Pelorus</span>,
+June&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding
+party of six—Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and
+self—and landed where the ponies had been sent, and
+rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing can be prettier
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span>than the scenery, while every available flat was under
+cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud
+banks, were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives
+simple and civil to a degree. The village, prettily
+situated on the bank of what appeared to be an
+inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies
+were entire and savage, kicking each other whenever
+opportunity offered; roads not much near Nagasaki,
+but particularly good when we got within Prince of
+Omera’s territory.</p>
+
+<p>Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against
+his will. On our return, tide being out and boat
+unable to come up to the spot at which we disembarked,
+we rode home through the town, the most
+curious feature of the ride being the facility with which
+the ponies travelled up and down a steep flight of
+stone steps.</p>
+
+<p>Had one short afternoon in the china and curio
+shops. Market in everything spoilt since the influx
+of Europeans; prices higher, and china, particularly
+that called the egg china, much inferior to what
+I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau
+gave me a magnificent specimen of the teredo or
+borer—the largest I have seen.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+June&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>On the 26th <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived, having the Commodore
+on board on leave. Shifted flag. The pending
+troubles in Japan appear to have excited the Saimonirai
+to renewed animosity against Europeans, and
+it became necessary to restrict the leave of the men,
+and to oblige officers to carry revolvers. I think
+my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob Crosbie,
+are now alive owing to this precaution; for one
+afternoon, returning in company from the native
+town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded man, heated by
+liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span>draw his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its
+appearance, and the Saimonirai swaggered past. A
+few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot
+pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had
+cut down some people in the settlement, and the
+Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with his life.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.
+Inland
+Sea.</div>
+
+<p>4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed; dirty weather. So left the
+pretty scenery to keep for some more auspicious day.
+Made for Spex Straits, through which passage nothing
+can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting
+country, with—apparently—everything within itself,
+while the wants of the natives are few, and all appear
+happy and contented; a state of things to which the
+boasted superiority and civilisation of the European
+will speedily put an end.</p>
+
+<p>Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills,
+but beyond a few bullocks and buffaloes as beasts
+of burthen, and for agricultural purposes, cattle are
+not required by these simple people. They look
+strong and healthy, but eat no meat.</p>
+
+<p>On emerging from these narrow and winding
+Straits, in which there is depth of water for the
+largest ships, we made the entrance to the Inland Sea
+through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept
+off, and the sea without a ripple, the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> made
+light work. As we entered the Straits, in addition to
+the ever-changing scene of hills and valleys, wood
+and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the
+scent of flowers was wafted off.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and
+steamed through the Straits; a strong tide against
+us gave time to enjoy the scenery and examine the
+numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving,
+departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki.
+After passing these we came to the dismantled
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span>batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince of
+Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the
+Inland Sea against all foreigners, but which in 1863
+Admiral Kuper, assisted by the French, proved to
+the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated that
+the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement
+which has been strictly adhered to. After
+passing the Straits and the weather continuing dirty
+we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to
+off a large fishing village.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Inland
+Sea,
+July&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward
+through this beautiful Inland Sea, altering course
+occasionally as we threaded our way between the
+islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south
+side of Cape Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing
+village, but the boats had not come in. Tried
+our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without
+success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards
+on board with much coquetting,—simple, quiet, good
+sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve and a helix that
+must have been washed from the land by the rains;
+with more time some fine shells might be collected.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>4.30.—Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing
+islands on both sides with all the appearance of a
+pretty, moving panorama—water perfectly smooth.
+Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while
+others were under their grotesque but picturesque
+sails.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>4.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining,
+it being just before the time of high water, met the
+last of the flood, and passed through the Naruto
+(Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the
+S.E. Coming into the open we met a strong breeze
+and head sea. By the morning we had again run
+into fine weather.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama
+to
+Yedo,
+July&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>At 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we came to in Yokohama, but on
+receiving a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, inviting
+self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again and
+ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and
+five minutes. The French
+admiral, Rose, in the
+<span class='ships'>Guerinere</span>, had saluted my
+flag as soon as they could
+well make it out. <span class='ships'>Perseus</span>
+returned, <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> and two
+gunboats in the anchorage.
+Commander Stevens ill
+on shore in hospital.
+Several men-of-war of
+various descriptions,
+wearing the Government
+flag of the Tycoon, or
+more properly Shogoon,
+which I trust we shall
+have the means of licking into shape. The British
+Government well represented in Sir Harry Parkes,
+who appears to be very properly and prettily mated,
+with three children here and two at home, one of
+those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my
+Colin.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_148'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_148.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Harry Parkes.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yedo,
+July&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister
+for Foreign Affairs, an office lately decided upon,
+at the instigation of Sir Harry. We formed a
+respectable <i lang='fr'>cortège</i>. The Minister with his staff of
+three, Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and
+self. Orders—cocked hats and side arms. We
+were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of
+eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear
+of all was brought up by a native guard, mounted
+on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had been
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span>given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity
+exhibited. Our route to the castle lay through some
+three miles of town. We were properly received.
+Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience
+chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors
+provided. Tea, tobacco, saki, pipes and sweetmeats.</p>
+
+<p>Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places,
+about the weather; then, naval matters, site for
+the buildings, for the instructing officer to live in,
+assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a couple
+of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came.</p>
+
+<p>Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like
+bearing of these Japanese officials. Their costume
+dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in case of
+the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return
+to Yokohama, my visit was returned this morning
+by the minister and officials connected with the
+Naval Department.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yedo,
+July&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>We had another ride yesterday, as we have had
+each day, through this wonderful and interesting
+city. We rode to the bridge, from which distances
+to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the
+outer mole, through such pretty scenery of water,
+green banks and trees, that after having made a
+tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult
+to believe that we had never been outside the town
+of Yedo. During the day the following little event
+unfortunately occurred:—</p>
+
+<p>The minister is not allowed to move without
+being followed by a dozen of these ragamuffin
+guards, which the Japanese Government maintain
+are necessary for his protection, but which are
+nothing more than mounted spies—now and then,
+when we were trotting, one of these fellows would
+pretend to get excited and dash past the minister.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span>Each day some of them had been checked and ordered
+back to their places in the rear; but yesterday one
+of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence
+is not known, dashed past me, and was stopped by
+Sir Harry Parkes, who applied the crop of a heavy
+hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same
+over the head of the officer or man in charge,
+threatening to serve him out also if he did not
+keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then made
+one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native
+squad of twelve into a side road; one that led to
+the inner route. They scampered off, a ridiculous
+and ignominious retreat.</p>
+
+<p>However, before we got home, we saw four
+following, but at so respectable a distance that a
+looker-on could not have discovered that we were
+the objects of their observation. The only pity was,
+that the minister did not leave the dirty work of
+inflicting the chastisement to one of the orderlies
+or one of his staff, who all looked as if they would
+have liked the fun.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama,
+July&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>At sea in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>, surveying vessel,
+Captain Bullock, in company. Sir Harry Parkes to
+follow in <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>. Our object to meet at Hakodadi,
+then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide
+on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour,
+with calls to make, visitors to receive, exercise to take,
+curio shops, etc., is not the place to keep up a journal.
+After six days at Yedo, partaking of the hospitality
+of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived
+and took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly
+called on by the French Admiral Rose, one of the
+most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of staff,
+Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same
+stamp.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span></p>
+
+<p>I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary,
+on whom, I was informed, I ought to
+call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared to be,
+as described by his countryman Rose, more of the
+Zouave Colonel than the Diplomatist. There is more
+to see and be amused with in Yokohama than at most
+places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant
+marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes
+the society and place most agreeable is the presence
+of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk Regiment),
+commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me
+a grand entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were
+made honorary members of their mess. Then a party
+was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,” a
+Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from
+the garrison, the distance about 15 miles. Ponies
+were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W. Davison,
+P. and O. Agent, mounting me.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was
+performed Indian file, one of the officers of 9th,
+well acquainted with the roads, leading the way; but
+what made the single file more necessary was the
+viciousness of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately
+refused every attempt on our part to get them to
+associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and a
+kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a
+moment thrown off your guard by the beauty of
+the surrounding scenery, which for constant variety
+I never saw equalled.</p>
+
+<p>About three hours brought us to the once
+celebrated (in Japanese annals) city, now village, of
+Kama Kura, passing through which, and by the
+entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we
+came to the end of a straight bit of road where a path
+turns off abruptly to the right, leading to the famous
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span>bronze statue, but here we dismounted to examine
+the spot and have again described to us the cruel
+murder which took place in 1864 of two fine young
+fellows of the 20th Regiment, Major Baldwin and
+Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some
+fanatical Yakonie, while returning from a visit to
+the Great Bhudda.</p>
+
+<p>The assassins were eventually executed in front
+of the English camp; one of them requesting to
+chaunt a song before being executed, prided himself
+on what he had done and would do again if he lived,
+and cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would
+take the country from them. Had this fellow died
+fighting he might have been a patriot; as it was, he
+and another committed a most dastardly murder on
+two unarmed gentlemen by lying in ambush and
+striking behind.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXVIII">
+    CHAPTER LXXXVIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Daibootz</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1867.
+July&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving
+our ponies, entered a shrubbery by a path which,
+taking a turn to the left, brought us suddenly, at the
+distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz
+himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built,
+not cast, of sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully
+put together that joints are imperceptible at
+first from the outside. It is only on going inside
+that you see how it was riveted, in much the same
+way as we should (forgive the comparison) a huge
+boiler. The inside, too, has been desecrated by the
+usual number of Saxon names.</p>
+
+<p>Several of our military friends, who had previously
+seen this gigantic statue, advised our not taking our
+eyes from the ground until close up to it, but that
+is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it is
+only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of
+the whole figure. The rising ground and green foliage
+at the back add much to the effect, and the best view
+is that which the people who erected it intended you
+should have, by the turn given to the path when it
+first appears in view.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman,
+the largest of the hundred in the neighbourhood.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>It is curious and handsome. The site, too,
+as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well
+chosen for its picturesque situation, as well as for the
+view to be obtained from it. But these temples are
+the work of men’s hands, and not to be compared
+with the beautiful scenery through which we
+afterwards passed on our return home, by another
+route.</p>
+
+<p>About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa,
+situated on the edge of a circular and nearly land-locked
+bay of the same name. At one of the clean
+and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most
+excellent luncheon, sent early and provided by the
+messman of the 9th, to which ample justice was done
+by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a
+ride home in the cool of the evening.</p>
+
+<p>A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution
+in the political state of the Japanese and
+their feelings towards foreigners. We appear to be
+welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper,
+especially by the lower orders.</p>
+
+<p>The Daimios, who would a few years ago have
+put their Shogoon to death for entertaining the idea
+of permitting foreigners to trade, are now quarrelling
+among themselves as to whose port shall be the
+first opened to trade. These feudal chiefs are
+tenacious of their independence, and no longer
+live with a portion of their family within the
+precincts of the castle and moat at Yedo, but
+excuse themselves by stating that troublous times
+oblige them to keep their retainers with them and
+ready.</p>
+
+<p>They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing
+will tend more to sap and explode the whole feudal
+system than the introduction of the foreigner with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span>our free notions, although differing materially from
+one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending
+to undermine a system similar to our ancient
+feudalism.</p>
+
+<p>The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions
+on commerce and despotic governments, are
+the loudest in their call for Free Trade, and were the
+first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to
+the foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed
+by force of arms, will allow herself to be second to
+none in free intercourse with the Japanese. Holland
+no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the
+whole trade; and, unable to compete with other
+nations in free notions of commerce, is fast retiring
+from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia seems
+afraid of contamination with any traders. England,
+I believe, while she feels the hardship of enforcing
+our trade on these primitive and would-be exclusive
+people, is obliged to go with the stream, and as yet
+enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain
+ports are open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and
+others are to be opened in January 1868.</p>
+
+<p>The apple of discord has been thrown among
+these warlike Daimios, who, finding that their whole
+strength united can no longer keep out the foreigner,
+are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves.
+Several of these princes are far more powerful than
+the Tycoon himself, but the Tycoon is nominally the
+head of the Government, and each quarrel among the
+Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at
+Osaka, ready to put down any single-handed Daimio,
+some of whom have threatened hostilities, fancying
+themselves aggrieved in not having been sufficiently
+consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether
+matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span></p>
+
+<p>As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for
+Foreign Affairs, I have seen none of their great men.
+The French, who, through their Minister, it is said,
+have got contracts for building docks and clothing
+the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of
+money in the country, so much so, that in case of civil
+war their interest will be to support the Tycoon, and
+they would persuade him that by a powerful army alone
+can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent
+chiefs. <em>Our</em> advice is to get up a respectable navy
+and make timely concessions. With their splendid
+harbours, mineral wealth, and vast resources, the
+Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation;
+while, beyond working artillery for their batteries,
+their soldiers will only weaken their resources and
+cut one another’s throats. What different views
+different people take!</p>
+
+<p>But to return to where the journal places us at sea
+after leaving Yokohama.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+July&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Serpent</span> led the way into Sendai Bay; she having
+communicated with some native fishermen found no
+safe entrance into the inner bay of Matsu Sima; so,
+to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood
+out again and found our way to the northward of an
+island, for which, as yet, we have no name, and stood
+on until we gradually shoaled our water to four
+fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came
+to for the night, perfectly secure against any wind.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at 8.30 and followed the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> round
+Sendai Bay, when I signalled her to pass through an
+inviting-looking passage formed by the mainland and
+Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with
+the beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent
+civilisation, that we determined on landing, and came
+to for the night. On the left the hills had been
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals,
+were seen in different directions. On the right was
+a beautifully wooded island, with herds of deer feeding
+in the cleared spaces. Guns were immediately
+got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s
+sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to
+get permission from certain houses we saw peeping
+through the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Our messenger was forestalled by the going on
+board the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> of a priest who informed them
+that the island was sacred and dedicated to the
+Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and
+never killed, and that not so much as a stone was
+ever permitted to be removed; in fact, that any
+one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would
+surely die. He said there was gold among the
+sand on the east side, but that was guarded by a
+great serpent. A party went on shore at the
+invitation of the priests, and while they were inspecting
+the interior of the temple a fine stag walked
+in and ate several sheets of white paper from
+the hands of the strangers. None of the deer are
+ever killed, nor is one allowed to pick up the antlers
+they shed, which were seen lying about.</p>
+
+<p>The Commodore and self landed on the opposite
+shore to inspect the more wild-looking horses. These
+we found as tame as the deer. They were but ponies,
+but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing
+the hills I put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay
+there were others. The covert was good, but we had
+neither guns nor dogs.</p>
+
+<p>On returning on board I found the priests, who
+had ascertained who I was, waiting to receive me.
+They appeared poor, civil and good-tempered, bringing
+an offering of small fans, descriptions on paper
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span>of their temple and island, also some nasty drink
+called saki. They seemed to enjoy some champagne!
+Should there ever be hostilities between us I shall
+know where to find some good fat venison. We
+weighed again before midnight and followed the
+<span class='ships'>Serpent</span> to the northward.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nanbu
+Harbour,
+July&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>10.30.—Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour,
+when <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> led us into as beautiful a haven as can
+well be imagined. Land high, bold, and wooded on
+both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water,
+as signalled from <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>, gradually decreasing from
+50 fathoms, but too deep for anchoring for full 3
+miles, and it was not until we had made a turn to the
+westward, and were completely land-locked that we
+got any soundings with the hand leads. Scenery
+such as Rio Harbour would be if the blue mountains
+were brought closer.</p>
+
+<p>We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms,
+close off a considerable fishing village called Yamaba.
+Natives appeared nervous and cautious at first, but
+gained confidence when they found the Japanese
+officers on board the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>. A seining party
+landed on a low sandy island and caught some small
+but sweet fish; some of them had the peculiarity of
+not spawning like most fish, but of producing a
+number of little plump fish like themselves, about
+2 inches long, that swam and cut about as if they
+had never been confined!</p>
+
+<p>On returning on board I found that the head of
+the village had sent his small present on board of
+stinking salt fish. The gunning party had shot ducks
+and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season:
+the natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the
+game between the months of March and September.
+Had we given permission, our decks would have
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>been crowded with the villagers from morning till
+night, but we allowed them on board only occasionally
+for an hour.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nanbu
+Harbour,
+Japan,
+July&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly
+japanned little tub, two parcels of the dried sea-slug
+or <i lang='fr'>bêche de mer</i>, done up in paper bags on a japanned
+tray, were brought off by the principal traders of the
+place. Mr. Aston came from the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> to interpret;
+they smoked their pipes. I gave them a
+couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne, and wrote
+my name on their fans; they went away delighted.</p>
+
+<p>Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine
+swan, and Pusey had killed an animal the doctor
+pronounced to be a fennec; it was very savage,
+and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after
+having been badly wounded; it had a small foxy
+head, a short brush, and hair long, like some Scotch
+terriers. He was not sweet!</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> to sound round this splendid
+harbour, particularly one of refuge should a vessel be
+caught in those gales so prevalent on this coast in
+winter months, at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we cleared from the
+numerous native boats and steamed out of the
+harbour. Weather and climate much the same as in
+our own dear isle at this time of year.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hakodadi,
+July&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly
+breeze, and that, with a lee set, obliged us to get
+steam up in the other two boilers. We came to in
+Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese
+junks with but few European vessels. There is
+not much to attract in the town, shops containing
+nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was
+immediately formed to start on the morrow for the
+Lake Cuoma, situated beyond the hills that rise from
+the plain. On the north side of the harbour, at a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span>distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the
+sea on the east side was said to be full of salmon and
+trout.</p>
+
+<p>The European residents were particularly kind in
+providing us with ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly
+offered to accompany us. Half a dozen pack
+ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and
+a change of clothes; these were to have started some
+hours in advance, but the usual mistakes were made
+of not equally dividing the packages, and after landing,
+beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller
+loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs.</p>
+
+<p>It was a little after noon that our party of
+seven, in addition to servants, got fairly under
+weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores of the
+harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly
+begins to rise towards the mountains,
+over which our route lay.</p>
+
+<p>The Commodore and self were properly mounted
+on the steadiest of the ponies, although mine,
+“Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk,
+with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson,
+who had but once before been in a saddle, was on
+an amorous pony that endeavoured to get at every
+herd of brood mares, of which there were many
+feeding on the plain, and at last got into difficulties
+by meeting two mares and a foal just as
+they were crossing the road from their straw-yard.
+A scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean
+over, while the other two pawed and bit each other
+savagely.</p>
+
+<p>The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then
+there was a chevy over the plain to separate the combatants
+and catch the runaway! As we approached
+the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span>were obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was
+going to take us and return to the beaten track.
+The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous
+rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary
+ponies scampered along considerably faster
+than I liked or could help, without a fall, although
+with frequent slips of a yard or two.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter'  id='i_161'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_161.jpg' alt=''>
+  <p>From a Sketch by Commodore Jones, 1867.</p>
+  <figcaption>Crossing a River in Japan.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which
+showed like a gap in the mountain, the mist held up
+and gave us a view of the plain we had traversed,
+with Hakodadi and the sea in the background,
+which has not been inaptly compared to Gibraltar,
+as seen from Spain. On the other side we have a
+view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the
+distance smoking.</p>
+
+<p>We had started too late to reach the fishing
+stream, so pushed on to a tea-house on the north
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span>side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here we
+did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed
+ourselves, as I fancy only sailors can; at least we do
+not get enough of this sort of life to make us indifferent
+to its (to me) many charms!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>The next morning we started for another of these
+comfortable and convenient tea-houses, situated on the
+shore of Volcano Bay, near the mouth of the Salmon
+River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some
+4 miles above and fish their way down. Luckily,
+the party who led did not know the intended spot,
+and continued on until they reached the house at
+which we intended to rest. This brought the whole
+party on, when it was ascertained that we were two
+months too early for salmon, and there was not a trout
+left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was
+increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>.</p>
+
+<p>The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our
+enjoyment. We were all early in the saddle. Started
+on our return by 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, a lovely and refreshing morning
+with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to
+the plain on the other side the wind got up and the
+rain came down as it can in this country. But the
+comforts of home on board with a warm bath made
+the rain only another variety in our fun.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>We found a French man-of-war, <span class='ships'>La Place</span>, from
+Yokohama, probably sent to see what we were after.
+She landed two ugly priests, anxious to commence
+their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat
+<span class='ships'>Garnastai</span>, commanded by a fine fellow, Count
+Lütkee, his mother English, also from Yokohama, on
+his way north. I had to receive visits from the
+Governor and Lieutenant-Governor—two gentleman-like,
+agreeable fellows.</p>
+
+<p>Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span>Howard and look at his curios. A nice collection of
+bronzes as well as pictures and small ivories. A
+small collection of shells!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>After having received and paid above visits and
+invited Mr. Mitford of the Legation to come with
+us, at 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> weighed, with the intention of inspecting
+the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at
+Twanai, and then rejoining the Minister at Nigata:
+the necessity of economising fuel not permitting
+<span class='ships'>Serpent</span> and <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> accompanying us.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Twanai,
+July&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which
+Captain Bullock had marked as about the spot we
+should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the number
+of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he
+observed a boat coming out from the village we least
+expected, and Mitford soon recognised his friend
+Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the
+contract from the Tycoon Government to work the
+coal-mine so many years. We found no shelter near
+the village.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yesso
+Island.</div>
+
+<p>Opposite the valley up which the principal mine
+is situated, the coast is rocky, but the season being
+fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the village of
+Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present.
+The town and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal,
+when worked, must be sent for re-shipment, is seven
+miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour, but
+with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank;
+with six or seven fathoms inside.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_LXXXIX">
+    CHAPTER LXXXIX
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1867.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+July&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>We had heard much of the bears in this island of
+Yesso, and Mr. Gower was pressed for information.
+There were plenty of them, and two had been down
+for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach,
+only half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained
+a guide, undertook to lie in wait for these
+bears; he found their traces, the marks where they had
+removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently
+remained until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an
+appearance. Pusey was, however, sanguine enough to
+try again the following night, with same success: the
+whole country round was either covered by forest or
+was one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high,
+from which it would have been impossible to have
+dislodged any game.</p>
+
+<p>During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather
+permitting, to remain, one was to be devoted to a ride
+to Juranai, where we were to see the aborigines, the
+other to visit the coal-mines.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to
+Gower’s house, where he and his friends, the Japanese
+officers, had provided ponies. Another party had
+gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span>miles to the eastward, up which we had heard of
+trout and salmon. Our ride, although hot, was an
+agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our
+party of Mitford. On arrival we found the
+Japanese Governor, a man of no great rank, had
+kindly provided a feast at his residence. The
+Japanese are proverbial for their cleanliness, and
+floors covered with mats. We found this second to
+none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before
+entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the
+exception of sweetmeats and cakes, a Japanese feast is
+a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish, uncooked ditto,
+and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate.</p>
+
+<p>We walked afterwards to that part of the village
+where the Jonos dwell. They are an extraordinary-looking
+race; short and square built, but the great
+peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends
+to their face and body. Their houses were cleaner
+than other savages, but that is probably owing to the
+force of example set them by the Japanese. They
+live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are
+allowed to do under certain restrictions. One is
+that the skins are sold to the Government. Each
+village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off
+which they eventually have a grand feast and consume
+much saki.</p>
+
+<p>The only curio obtained was one presented to
+me by the chief—a slip of wood, the size of a large
+paper-cutter, but carved on it were the figures of a
+Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of
+fish and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument
+was to lift the hair of the upper lip so as to clear the
+way for the bowl of saki, which it was essential should
+be drank at the feast of the bear. During the
+operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span>for the feast, the old women are allowed to howl and
+cry.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Friday,
+Aug.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the
+Commodore preferred trying their hand at the salmon,
+which were just arriving on the coast.</p>
+
+<p>An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a
+valley down which a small rivulet runs, and up which
+the tram or railway is being constructed, brought us
+to the coal-mine, into which—more to please Mr.
+Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting—I
+crept, half-doubled, through mud and
+water. After expressing my satisfaction, and taking
+a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered
+with timber and brushwood, and rendered still more
+interesting to Mr. Gower by the vast seams of coal
+underneath, the line of which he seemed to know as
+exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we
+wended our way back on foot, collecting several
+specimens of the land helix.</p>
+
+<p>When we got back, a swell from westward had
+set the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> rolling, and made us anxious about
+the party who had crossed the bar to fish the river.
+About 7 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> they were seen coming off, but not
+without having been swamped, with the loss of rods
+and other gear. A heavy roller filled the boat.
+They wisely sat still until the two following waves
+had broken over them, and then jumped out and
+hauled their boat. They were assisted by the kind
+natives, who refused any remuneration for their
+trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging
+friend, Mr. Gower, who, after having come on board to
+see me off, hurried on shore again to send assistance over
+the hills to the missing fishing party. We got under
+way at 7 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, and proceeded to the southward
+under easy steam.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two
+steamers, which proved to be the <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> and <span class='ships'>Serpent</span>,
+preparing to take their departure from Nigata; but
+making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock
+having left with us directions where our boats might
+safely cross the bar, they left soon after daylight.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nigata,
+Japan,
+Aug.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank,
+about three miles from the mouth. It belongs to the
+Tycoon, and but for the insuperable objection to a
+bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in
+the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been
+one of the new Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a
+large trade with junks.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor had sent off officers with the usual
+compliments, whom we met as we proceeded on
+shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30, fearing
+the Governor might have come off to wait upon me
+himself, but I believe he had no intention of doing anything
+of the sort. The officers we met turned about
+and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but never
+left us until we were again afloat; they were spies,
+but under the happy delusion that we imagined them
+to be a guard of honour! However, they did not
+molest or interfere.</p>
+
+<p>Our object was to see the town and shops, and they
+took us to them. The town is clean, intersected by
+canals, and the population, although naturally anxious
+to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way.
+On our way back we were requested to visit a rather
+imposing temple, but thinking it was an attempt to
+get me to call on the Governor, whose duty it was to
+wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their
+explaining that if I would walk in and partake of
+refreshment, the Governor would call on me there,
+I went back.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span></p>
+
+<p>Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and
+after we had had some tea and fruit, and had waited
+about a quarter of an hour, the mob at the entrance
+gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in
+advance, announcing the Governor’s approach. He
+arrived, mounted on a remarkably nice strong pony,
+but dismounted at the end of the road and approached
+on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive
+him. The usual commonplace conversation took
+place as to weather. How old we were, and how
+well we all looked; all of which was taken down in
+writing, before we took our departure. I was rather
+struck with the appearance of the Governor, apparently
+superior in intellect to the generality of his
+countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty.</p>
+
+<p>We got under way at 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, intending, according
+to agreement with Sir Harry Parkes, to go to
+Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end of
+the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing
+the land, we made out our two consorts at anchor
+off a village, which proved to be Oda. We came to
+with them and remained for the night.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed together at 5 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, Sir Harry having
+made arrangements to meet the Governor at Ongi, a
+small bay on the south-west side, and then to visit the
+gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on
+foot. I preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of
+hares and pheasants in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>We came to in a snug little port, which required
+some caution in approaching, but was protected by
+rocks sufficiently numerous and high to break the
+force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game
+produced many sportsmen, but the weather being
+sultry, vegetation high, and no dogs, I waited the result.
+The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2 ducks, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span>8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they
+came on board, and stood out under easy steam.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Manao,
+Aug.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Came to in four fathoms off Manao.
+Found a steamer with the Daimio Kaga’s flag flying.
+Hitherto we had visited only such ports as belonged
+to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of
+these feudal princes. Whether this will be the treaty
+port to be opened on the west coast, some one besides
+the Tycoon will have to be consulted.</p>
+
+<p>About midday <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> and <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> arrived. The
+authorities on shore had sent off to the capital notice
+of the intended visit of our Minister. Prince Kaga
+had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition
+towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this,
+his Port of Manao, is the best situated and the finest
+harbour on the west coast. The other port of
+Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to
+the southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too
+near to Osaka. Nigata would do well if no vessels
+larger than junks wanted to enter the river: no
+safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully
+promised to open whatever port on the west coast
+we may decide on.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>It was on the morning of the third day, Friday
+9th, that a dozen of the Daimio’s officers arrived, and
+immediately waited on Sir Harry Parkes on board
+the <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>. The interview was long, but not
+satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade
+they had, and did not wish theirs to be made a
+treaty port. They were very civil and polite. Their
+Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no
+one: no encouragement. But I have a great idea
+that our Minister will carry his point, although I do
+not see my way. Nothing would unite these Damios
+so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span>coerce one of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a
+lesson. Seaton and Mitford were sent overland to
+Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey
+I should think. At 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we got under way for
+Nagasti, to be followed by <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>. <span class='ships'>Serpent</span> left to
+survey the harbour.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nagasaki,
+Aug.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the
+cruel murder of two
+seaman of the <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>,
+Lord Charles Scott.
+The poor fellows had
+fallen asleep outside a
+tea-house, when some
+passing Yakomins
+slashed their bodies
+with their two-handed
+swords, almost cutting
+them in two. My first
+step was to communicate
+the facts to the
+Hon. Minister in Japan,
+in the hope that the
+crime might be traced
+to its source. Suspicion fell on some of Prince
+Tosa’s retainers.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_170'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_170.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Charlie Scott.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of
+Awa. We were received in a magnificent feudal
+castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was accompanied
+by two or three members of the Legation,
+Suttie, Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant. On first
+arrival our presents were sent in, and then we were
+presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the
+Prince took the head of the table; his guests were
+arranged according to rank. Half-way down, the
+table was depressed some feet below the level of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span>upper table, and here his subordinate officers were
+entertained, illustrating the “below the salt” of our
+feudal times. The officer plied us with warm saki,
+but its effects showed sooner on our tempters than on
+ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio,
+who welcomed us to his territory, and, pointing to a
+recess full of Japanese curios, expressed a hope we
+would take with us some specimens of the manufactures
+of the country, as indeed we did, none leaving
+without a present.</p>
+
+<p>Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course
+we could not follow. On retiring to rest we found
+that a four-poster bed had been rigged up for each
+of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and
+a pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table,
+the Prince having evidently been informed that such
+conditions were essential to the everyday life of an
+Englishman.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed and stood to the south-east.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Came to off entrance to the Peiho.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the
+usual grounding at the bends and fouling of junks
+came to for the night.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peking,
+Sept.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin.
+Received with the greatest kindness by Sir Rutherford
+and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw much of
+Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not
+allowed.</p>
+
+<p>Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable
+riding excursion to the Great Wall of China.
+The party consisted of our Minister, Lady Alcock and
+her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of
+the Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and
+Harry Stephenson. Riding in easy stages, the native
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span>servants were always one stage ahead, so that on
+arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table
+arranged with every possible luxury. Striking
+almost due north we stopped for the night at Cha-ho.
+Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an
+avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in
+stone—elephants, camels, and horses; and that they
+were not without artistic merit is proved by the fact
+that some of our horses whinnied and approached
+these stone representations in evident recognition.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Oct.</div>
+
+<p>We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode
+to Kou-li-yeng, our halting-place for the night. Next
+day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an admirable dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the
+turning-point for home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang,
+Loo-shan, Niulang-shein, Saw-Chia-tieu and
+Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the
+hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement
+by an occasional raid on the wild geese and
+partridges met with on the road.</p>
+
+<p>I was much impressed by the evidence of former
+splendour and prosperity—temples carved in marble;
+baths fed by natural hot springs; all in decay and
+covered with dust inches thick, the collection of centuries—so
+much so, that names inscribed on the dust,
+with dates many years previously, were as sharply
+defined as if written yesterday.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki,
+calling <i lang='fr'>en route</i> at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan,
+and we went south again, anchoring in Hong Kong
+on November 10, when I shifted the flag to <i>Princess
+Charlotte</i>. Then to Shanghai, where old memories
+and old friends clustered round me: the scene of
+many a stirring day in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>. Again to Japan, and
+further cruises on that beautiful and interesting coast.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XC">
+    CHAPTER XC
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Outlook for the New Year</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1868.
+Hiogo,
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Commencement of another year. My flag at the
+fore, flying on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> in Corvé Bay, near Hiogo.
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> nearly twelve months in commission, while I
+have been nine within the limits of the station, having
+assumed the Command-in-Chief at Singapore in March
+1867. Thanks to the speed of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> I have
+been enabled to visit all the important points of the
+China and Japan part of this extensive station, besides
+paying an agreeable month’s visit to Peking and its
+neighbourhood. And I hope before leaving this part
+of the world to have a second peep at Nankin: four
+and twenty years since I was there in <span class='ships'>Dido</span>. The
+event for which we have been preparing since my
+arrival has been the opening of Osaka, Hiogo, and
+other ports for commercial purposes.</p>
+
+<p>The necessity or advantage of opening these ports
+seems doubtful, but they were mentioned in the
+former treaty, and all the foreign ministers, however
+they may disagree on other points, seem united in
+the necessity of teaching the Japanese that treaties
+must be respected, and not lightly set aside. Owing
+to the political state of affairs in Japan, the weakness
+of the Tycoon power, and strength of the Independent
+Feudal Chiefs, as well as the uncertainty of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span>strength of two parties styled among themselves the
+“Admission” and “Expulsion” parties, it was deemed
+advisable to appear before Osaka and Hiogo with an
+imposing force. Our Minister, Sir Harry Parkes,
+had come from Yokohama in the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> troopship,
+Captain Hickley, with a guard of fifty of the
+9th Regiment, besides his twelve mounted policemen
+in Lancer costume, and a large staff with the Legation
+of Consuls and interpreters in addition to the Attaché.
+The Americans made a good display of pennants,
+but France, afloat, was represented by one man-of-war,
+while their Minister, M. Roches, tried to emulate
+our Minister by a guard of marines at Osaka.</p>
+
+<p>The Tycoon was at Miako endeavouring to carry
+on the government, opposed by Prince Satsumali Li
+Tosa and other powerful Daimios who had collected
+a sufficient number of retainers to threaten the power
+of the Tycoon. What their object is has not been
+ascertained. Most parties appear to agree as to the
+necessity of doing away with one of the two heads.
+The Tycoon invites a council of Daimios and expresses
+himself willing to be guided by their decision. The
+majority of Daimios decline attending this council
+and shut themselves up in their castles. The 1st of
+January arrives, and the ports of Osaka and Hiogo
+are open to foreign trade. Salutes are fired from the
+ships-of-war off both ports, and no demonstration or
+disturbance takes place.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>On the 6th <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> sails with mails for Hong
+Kong; <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> for Chusan, to wait me there.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>On 7th I go over in <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> to visit and consult
+with Minister at Osaka. Land at foreign settlement,
+where we find horses to ride (4 miles) to the
+Legation. On coming on to the open space that surrounds
+the castle, met a number of troops arriving
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span>in various and curious costumes. These proved to
+be the Tycoon’s guard and retainers, he having
+retreated from his castle at Miako; the subsequent
+explanation of which was that Satsuma had surrounded
+the Mikado’s Palace with his troops, and
+thereby was in possession of the Mikado’s person:
+representing the seat of government. The Tycoon
+stated he had removed his troops at the order of the
+Mikado. Mikado is a child, but Satsuma had placed
+his own people as the advisers of the crown, and the
+Tycoon, too patriotic to shed blood and plunge his
+country into civil war, retired to his castle at
+Osaka.</p>
+
+<p>I expect that the Tycoon is not deficient in courage;
+among the Japanese I have not seen a man more
+princely and determined, a good-looking man, apparently
+about thirty years of age. He, I think, is
+aware of much discontent among Prince Satsuma’s
+followers; their swaggering and overbearing manner
+causes them to be hated by the inhabitants; they are
+some 300 miles from home, and when food gets
+scarce will have to disperse. The Tycoon will “bide
+his time,” and eventually be recalled when they
+cannot do without him. The foreign ministers
+waited on the Tycoon, and received in reply an explanation
+worthy of a more civilised nation!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>On Thursday 9th we were to return to Hiogo by
+the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, having had the <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> steam launch
+sent to the settlement to take us over the bar.
+Owing to a continued fall of rain and difficulty in
+getting coolies, it was late in the afternoon before we
+got away from the Legation. We, a large party, consisting
+of Captains Stanhope and Brooker, Mitford,
+Attaché, Captain Gibbs, Harry Stephenson, Adolphus
+Crosbie, Bradshaw of 9th Regiment, my servant
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span>Fuller and others, descended the river in native boats
+from a creek at the back of the Legation.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at the settlement we found a fresh
+breeze from southward and a ripple on the water,
+although 2 miles from the mouth, sufficient to
+show that the bar would not be quite smooth. In
+addition to <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> launch we had the steam cutter
+of the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, which we took in tow. By the time
+we reached the mouth of the river it was too dark to
+judge of the state of the bar, although we could
+plainly see the white tops of the waves against the
+darkness beyond. We could also discern the ships-of-war
+at anchor outside.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Corvé
+Bay.</div>
+
+<p>Having a strong ebb tide, stronger perhaps from
+the late heavy rains, we pushed on, and in a few
+minutes found ourselves plunging into a head sea,
+the rollers breaking heavily. We saw at once that
+retreat was too late, our only chance being to have
+steerage way enough to keep the boat’s head to the
+sea, which at every plunge broke angrily into her,
+threatening to extinguish the fires. Our only propelling
+power lay in steam, as, with the engine in
+the boat, no room is left for the oars to work,
+only a portion of the crew being sent on such
+occasions.</p>
+
+<p>Besides, we all knew that in case of the boat filling,
+the weight of the engine was sufficient to take her
+down like a stone. We were not long in casting off
+the <span class='ships'>Sylvia’s</span> cutter to take care of herself. We
+hoped to find less sea when once across the bar. In
+that we were mistaken. In spite of pumps and baling
+the water was gaining on us, and as the boat got
+heavier it appeared as if each plunge must be the
+last. We had, too, the mortification to see that the
+current had carried us past the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, and we dared
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span>not turn the boat’s head in that direction without
+certain destruction from the seas that would inevitably
+have broken over her broadside.</p>
+
+<p>The next few were anxious minutes, until we came
+under the lee of <span class='ships'>La Place</span>, French frigate, which
+providentially lay just on our line ahead. We were
+drenched, bitter cold, and those who were not sea-sick
+very hungry. Nothing could equal the kindness
+and attentions of Captain Emot and the officers of
+<span class='ships'>La Place</span>. To get on board the frigate was out of
+the question, although she rigged out her spanker-boom
+with a Jacob’s ladder suspended from the end.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hiogo.</div>
+
+<p>However, by means of waterproof cases they supplied
+us with all we required, even a tin of sardines,
+which the natives helped to get rid of, and mulled
+wine. Between 10 and 11 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> a lull took place,
+and we succeeded in getting to the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, and in the
+morning weighed for Hiogo, having first ascertained
+that the cutter was safe inside the river.</p>
+
+<p>We afterwards heard that within a minute of being
+cast off she filled with a second sea, but being fitted
+with air-tight compartments as a life-boat, she was
+sufficiently buoyant to bear the weight of the engine.
+By holding up the portion of an awning in the fore
+part of the boat they succeeded in getting her head
+round, and drifted in again before the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning Admiral Bell, the American
+Commander-in-Chief, attempted to cross the bar in
+his twelve-oared barge, which capsized, when himself,
+Flag-Lieutenant Read, and ten seamen were drowned.
+We sailed in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> on the 11th; arrived at Yokohama
+on 13th.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama,
+Jan.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>On 19th went in <span class='ships'>Firm</span> to visit the Naval Yard
+establishment for instruction of Japanese under the
+able management of Commander Tracey, assisted by
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span>Lieutenant A. K. Wilson and a competent staff, of
+an engineer, warrant-officer, and seamen gunners.
+The pupils consisted of between seventy and eighty
+Japanese lads, all the sons of officers and respectable
+people, each lad wearing that distinguishing mark
+of rank, two swords. The College was a long, well-arranged
+building, with cabin, and bunks like those
+on board passenger ships: each cabin containing two
+students. Baths, cook-houses, etc., arranged after
+their own fashion, but the indoor instruction was
+carried on at tables with seats. They had their rigging
+and engineer lofts, a section of a frigate’s
+maindeck with portholes and guns. This was rendered
+necessary, as, although the establishment
+bordered on the sea, the water was too shoal to
+admit of any man-of-war approaching near enough
+to be available for such purposes. They had, however,
+a small brigantine moored close by, and boats
+to teach them the practical part of a seaman’s work.</p>
+
+<p>No nation ever went through such changes, and
+so great a revolution, although still incomplete, in
+so short a time and with so little bloodshed. But
+internal dissensions must ensue, and the Saturday
+night of our arrival and the greater part of
+Sunday fires were blazing in five or six different
+parts of the city. This proved to be all property
+belonging to Prince Satsuma, who was domineering
+it with so high a hand over the Tycoon at
+Miako. A steamer of his that attempted to go to
+sea was chased and attacked by three of the Tycoon’s
+vessels-of-war. Although there did not appear to be
+much damage done, it is the beginning of a Civil
+War which must decide which is to be the strongest
+and ruling power. Much has to be done, and that
+strongest of all earthly powers, the majority of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span>people, has not as yet been thought of as having anything
+to do with their differences. It will be curious
+to watch the progress of events.</p>
+
+<p>The most influential and dangerous party now
+are the ignorant, idle, lazy, two-sworded followers
+and retainers of the Daimios and Feudal chiefs—scoundrels
+who are alike a curse to their masters as
+well as the people. The fires at Yedo were extensive,
+and so near to the British Legation that two
+young students, a Mr. Easlim, and their guests,
+two American gentlemen by name of Hunt, thought
+it advisable to clear out. Having deposited their
+goods on board the <span class='ships'>Firm</span>, they came to the Naval
+Yard establishment for board and lodging.</p>
+
+<p>We were disturbed just as we were preparing for
+dinner by the body of one of the American gentlemen
+being borne in on the shoulders of five men,
+and badly wounded. He was laid on the floor and
+search made, but no wound being discovered, he
+was given some hot brandy and water, when it
+transpired that his revolver had accidentally gone
+off in the pocket of his <em>pants</em>. He sat up and
+ate a very good dinner, but blood having been discovered
+under his chair, it was thought advisable to
+make a further examination on our arrival next day
+in the <span class='ships'>Firm</span> at Yokohama.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>The English mail having arrived at Yokohama on
+20th, we sailed the following day, and arrived off
+Osaka on the 24th, in time to cross the bar before
+dusk, when I proceeded to the Legation, <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>
+going on to Corvé Bay. News had already reached
+Osaka of the burnings and doings at Yedo.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>On 26th took leave of Sir Harry Parkes for
+a while; my intention to leave Captain Stanhope of
+<span class='ships'>Ocean</span> in charge. The Tycoon’s troops, some 2000
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span>strong, marched this morning for Miako. Reports
+of disaffection on part of Satsuma’s followers; most
+likely provisions failing.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Shifted flag to <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, and took leave of Japan
+for a while. <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> to follow.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Shanghai. Made arrangements with
+regard to the new Naval Yard to be established on
+the right bank of Woosung River.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Shifted flag to <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hong
+Kong,
+Feb.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Hong Kong, 10.40 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>
+arrived 2.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Shifted flag to her. Each
+successive mail from northward brought accounts of
+the movements of the Civil War. The troops whom
+the Tycoon had sent against the disaffected princes
+had been met by Satsuma’s followers and dispersed.
+The Tycoon, taking fright, had departed for city of
+Yedo, leaving his magnificent castle to be burnt.
+The Foreign Legations had quitted Osaka the best
+way they could, and retired upon Hiogo under the
+protection of the ships-of-war. The Tycoon’s want
+of courage and retreat greatly disgusted Monsieur
+Roches, the French Minister. The French having
+embarked large sums in the construction of docks
+and other works, were pecuniarily interested in the
+stability of the Tycoon’s Government. M. Roches
+retired to Yokohama, and would likely have continued
+his retreat to Paris, had he not been stopped
+by the newly-arrived French Admiral, Monsieur
+Ohier.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Japan.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</div>
+
+<p>Other wavering Princes declared for the Mikado,
+in whose name Satsuma, Tosa, Chion, and other
+Daimios carried on the war against the Tycoon.
+Among them the Prince of Bozin came up from the
+westward; his line of march lay through Hiogo, and
+skirted the territory which had been allotted and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span>already taken possession of by the foreigners. Prince
+Bozin’s advanced guard had gone on, and when his
+main body came up and were abreast of the Foreign
+Settlement, the not uncommon order for all to prostrate
+themselves was given. Two French seamen
+who were on the road attempted to cross the line of
+troops and were charged with spears. In the confusion
+the officer in command of Bozin’s troops gave
+the order to fire, an order which was immediately
+obeyed; but, as in all probability it was the first time
+the Japs had ever to fire in earnest, no great damage
+was done, but the alarm was sounded: the Minister’s
+guard of fifty men belonging to the 9th Regiment
+turned out, marines and seamen from our man-of-war
+(<span class='ships'>Ocean</span>) hurried on shore.</p>
+
+<p>Just as the disturbance commenced, Sir Harry
+Parkes, with Captain Stanhope, was returning from
+a walk, attended by two dismounted men of the
+Body Guard. They made for the Consulate across
+the open space which had been cleared for the
+Foreign Settlement, and afforded capital pot-shots
+for the excited Japs, who for a few minutes had it
+all their own way; but by the end of that time the
+9th were advancing, and in a few minutes afterwards
+Parkes was out at the head of his troopers, and
+the Japs, in full retreat, throwing away all extra
+weight, dispersed towards the hills with the agility
+of monkeys. Parkes came up with, and captured,
+three brass guns. Two French and one American
+had been wounded.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have happened worse or more
+inopportunely for the disaffected chiefs, whose last
+wish it was to offend the foreigners, while we (the
+foreigners) made a very grave affair of the whole
+business, demanding ample apologies from the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span>Mikado himself, and nothing short of the execution
+of the officer who had given the order. All this
+was conceded, and eventually carried out.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>Mr. Mitford of the Legation, whose duty it was to
+attend the ceremony of Hara-Kari, sent me a description
+of it, which is inserted later.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Complimented Americans by firing Royal Salute,
+anniversary of General Washington’s birth. Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Tamar</span> arrived with 10th Regiment for Yokohama.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>French frigate <span class='ships'>La Place</span> arrived with Admiral
+Ohier.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>United States S.S. <span class='ships'>Hartford</span>, Commodore Gouldisborough,
+sailed; cheered him on quitting the station.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed under plain sail and ran through the
+Lyemoon Pass.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCI">
+    CHAPTER XCI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Hari-Kari</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1868.
+March.</div>
+
+<p>My fair readers, if I have any, are advised to skip
+the next twenty pages, which deal with tragedies
+upon which I reported officially at the time.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Mitford, who was present at the ceremony
+of Hari-Kari, sent me the following account.
+The officer’s name was Taki Zingaburo. The
+ceremony took place on March 2, at 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, in
+the Temple of Siefukigi, the headquarters of Satsuma’s
+troops. The courtyard was filled with soldiers, and
+lighted by fires and lanterns. The witnesses were
+conducted into a room in the temple, where
+Ito Shunski (formerly interpreter on board the
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>), the provisional Governor of Hiogo, came
+soon after, and, having taken down their names, told
+them that himself and another officer, on the part
+of the Mikado, two of Satsuma’s officers, two of
+Choshin’s, and a representative of the Prince of
+Bizen, would act as Renshi—sheriffs or witnesses.
+Seven were appointed, probably that their numbers
+might agree with those of the foreigners.</p>
+
+<p>After a short delay, they were invited to follow
+the Japanese witnesses into the principal hall of the
+temple. On the raised platform, immediately in
+front of the high altar, was placed a rug of red felt.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span>The temple was dimly lighted with tall candles.
+The Japanese witnesses took their places on the
+left, and the foreigners on the right, of the raised
+floor. No other persons were present in the hall.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">April.</div>
+
+<p>After an interval of a few minutes, Taki Zingaburo,
+a stalwart, noble-looking fellow, walked into
+the hall, attired in his dress of ceremony, accompanied
+by his Kaishaku and three officers in their jimbasri,
+or war surcoat. (Kaishaku is one to whom our word
+executioner is no equivalent: the office is that of a
+gentleman, usually filled by a friend or kinsman or
+the condemned. In this instance the Kaishaku was
+a pupil of Taki Zingaburo, chosen for his skill in
+swordsmanship.) He advanced slowly, with the
+Kaishaku on his left, towards the Japanese witnesses
+and bowed before them; then, drawing near to the
+foreigners, he saluted, with perhaps rather more show
+of respect. In each case the salutation was ceremoniously
+returned.</p>
+
+<p>Slowly, and with great dignity, he mounted on
+the raised floor, prostrated himself before the high
+altar, and then seated himself on the felt carpet with
+his back to the altar, the Kaishaku crouching on
+his left.</p>
+
+<p>One of the three attendant officers then came
+forward, bearing a tray, on which, wrapped in paper,
+lay the dirk. This he handed with a bow to the
+condemned man, who received it, reverently raising
+it to his head, and placed it in front of himself.
+After another profound obeisance, the condemned
+man, in a voice of some emotion, and with just
+so much hesitation as would be natural to a man
+about to make a disagreeable confession, but with no
+sign of fear, said, “I, and I alone, unwarrantably gave
+the order to fire on the foreigners at Corvé as they
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span>tried to escape. For this crime I disembowel myself.
+And I beg you who are here present to do me the
+honour of witnessing the act.” After delivering this
+speech, he allowed his upper garments to slip down
+to his girdle—carefully, according to custom, tucking
+his sleeves under his knees, that he might die as a
+Samarai should, falling forward. Deliberately, with
+a steady hand, he took the dirk that lay before
+him. For a few seconds he seemed to collect his
+thoughts, and then stabbing himself deeply below the
+waist on the left side, he drew the dirk slowly to the
+right. As the dirk reached the right side, he gave a
+slight cut upwards, and then lent forwards, stretching
+out his head.</p>
+
+<p>An expression of pain for the first time crossed
+his face, and the Kaishaku, who had been keenly
+watching every motion, sprang to his legs, and
+poising his sword in the air for a second, with one
+stroke severed the head from the body, during a
+dead silence. The Kaishaku having wiped his sword,
+bowed solemnly to the witnesses and removed the
+dirk as a proof of the death of Taki Zingaburo, aged
+thirty-two. Ito Shumski and the other representatives
+of the Mikado left their places, and advancing
+to where the foreigners sat, called on them to witness
+that the execution had been faithfully performed.</p>
+
+<p>The ceremony, to which the place and the hour
+gave a most solemn effect, was characterised by that
+extreme dignity and punctiliousness which are the
+distinctive marks of a Japanese gentleman of rank,
+and it is not unimportant to note this fact, because it
+carries with it the conviction that the dead man was
+the officer who committed the crime and not a substitute.
+I am happy to think that Captain Stanhope
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span>did what he could to save this man’s life, but he was
+in a minority.</p>
+
+<p>This execution was soon followed by a frightful
+tragedy. At Hong Kong, on March 23, I received
+a letter from Captain Stanhope of the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> off
+Osaka, informing me that on the 8th the French
+corvette <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> had sent her steam launch, accompanied
+by her whale-boat, to Sakai, a small town
+about six miles on the Hiogo side of Osaka, to wait
+there for Captain Roy of the <span class='ships'>Venus</span>, and the French
+Consul. The steam launch had been lying some time
+alongside the wharf, and the townspeople had come
+down and been very civil to the crew. After a while,
+at about 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, the engineer and coxswain of the
+launch asked the midshipman’s permission to go up
+for a stroll.</p>
+
+<p>The lieutenant, who was in the whale-boat, had
+been up for a walk an hour or two previous without
+so much as having seen a two-sworded man.
+The mid granted permission, but the engineer and
+gunner had not gone far before some two-sworded
+men seized and tried to secure them; from these
+they broke away and made for their boat; as they did
+so they were fired on by a number of armed men. The
+coxswain was shot and fell into the boat; the engineer
+jumped overboard and got to the off side; two more
+cut the bow and stern fasts; the stoker tried to turn
+the engines ahead and was immediately pierced by three
+bullets; the steam-pipe was likewise shot through; the
+mid in charge, with six men, jumped overboard.</p>
+
+<p>The First Lieutenant in the whale-boat, who was
+just outside taking soundings, pulled in and was fired
+on by some seventy or eighty men. He had one man
+shot down, and having no arms, he did not advance
+farther; in meantime the steam launch drifted out
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span>and was taken hold of by the whale-boat and towed
+out of range. Having made sail on the launch, and
+leaving the engineer, who was the only person on
+board not wounded, to steer, the Lieutenant proceeded
+to report matters on board his ship, the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>.
+Out of sixteen men in the launch and five in the
+whaleboat only five with them were not hurt. The
+captain of the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> sent a petty officer to report
+matters to Captain Stanhope; while he proceeded with
+his remaining boats armed to Sakai to try if he could
+find the mid and six men who had jumped overboard,
+not being aware of the force the Japanese might have,
+and not wishing to compromise the Foreign Ministers
+residing at Osaka.</p>
+
+<p>It was not the intention of Captain Du Petit
+Thours to attack the place, but he requested Captain
+Stanhope to acquaint the ministers with the state of
+affairs. Captain Stanhope immediately sent Lieutenant
+Rougemont in his steam launch with a letter to Sir
+Harry Parkes, offering to send boats for their embarkation,
+and the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span> gunboat to cover them.
+The <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span> he sent to Hiogo to protect foreign
+subjects in case of an outbreak there.</p>
+
+<p>The Captain of the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> returned from Sakai
+at about 11 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> without having learnt anything of
+the missing men, not having been able to land. He
+saw many Japanese in the fort, while others were
+running down to field-pieces at the landing-stage.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Ocean’s</span> steam launch returned from Osaka at 6
+the following morning, bringing off Captain Roy of
+the <span class='ships'>Venus</span> and Captain Creighton of the U.S. <span class='ships'>Oneida</span>,
+also a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, declining, with
+his usual coolness, to embark immediately, saying
+that the Japanese Minister had been to him to
+express their deep regret at the outrage, and declared
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span>that the Mikado’s Government would give full
+satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th March the French and American
+Ministers embarked. The French Minister having
+demanded that the officer and missing men should be
+given up, whether dead or alive, in twenty-four hours,
+their bodies were taken alongside the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> in a
+Japanese boat, which was at once towed to the
+<span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th Sir Harry Parkes embarked on board
+the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, all the Foreign Ministers being then afloat.</p>
+
+<p>The funeral of the French midshipman and the
+ten seamen who were killed by the Japanese took
+place at the cemetery at Hiogo: all the usual honours
+being paid by the officers and ships-of-war present.</p>
+
+<p>A newspaper report goes on to state that the
+French Minister, Captain, and officers grasped each
+other’s hands over the graves, and called on the
+Almighty to witness the vows they then made not to
+rest satisfied until they had avenged the blood of
+their murdered countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>The French Minister then took into consideration
+the ultimate demands he intended to make, which
+he would submit to the other Foreign Ministers
+before presenting them to the Mikado’s Government.
+These demands are not likely to be either mild
+or pleasant to the young Mikado’s newly formed
+Government, and, considering Monsieur Roches’
+interest in the Tycoon, and proportionate aversion
+to his opponents, unless mitigated and smoothed
+down by Sir Harry Parkes, the ultimatum will, I
+think, be very embarrassing, and who can see the
+end of it or the Civil War either. A raw is established,
+and will be worked.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote"><i>Written
+on board</i>
+Rodney,
+<i>March
+29, off
+Breaker
+Point</i>, en
+route <i>to
+Yokohama</i>.</div>
+
+<p>In the meantime, preparations on the part of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span>Mikado’s Government still continue for an advance
+on Yedo, and likewise on the part of the Tycoon
+to resist. Then, again, neither Chiefs appear to have
+much control over the two-sworded ruffians, their
+followers. An attack by both sets united on the
+foreign settlements at Yokohama would show little
+less judgment or recklessness of consequences than
+the insane attack on the foreigners at Corvé, or
+the French boat’s crew at Sakai.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCII">
+    CHAPTER XCII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1868.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>,
+Yokohama,
+Apr.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, Commander John Swan, arrived, a good
+fellow, but subject to fits. Obliged to send him to
+hospital. Prussian frigate, saluted under her new
+flag.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Apr.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Poor Swan departed this life.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Apr.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Appointed Harry Stephenson to command <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>
+and Keppel Garnier to be Flag-Lieutenant.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Proceeded down the bay, <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> in company.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Corvé Bay.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed; stood over in company. Japan flag
+in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. With <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> to Osaka. Flag saluted
+by the French frigate <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>. Came to off the
+bar. Self and Captains were presented to the
+Mikado by Sir Harry Parkes. With Minister, accompanied
+by staff, we were carried up through the
+streets, crowded with Japanese. Sir Harry Parkes
+presented credentials, and we were introduced
+severally to the Mikado. All the chief nobles were
+prostrate in his presence, their heads touching the
+ground. The Mikado appeared to be a lad of
+sixteen. The streets were lined with kneeling
+Japanese.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Osaka,
+May&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Japanese princes and great officers visited Rodney
+and <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed under steam. Came to off Nagasaki.
+Japan may well be called the “Gem of the Sea”
+from her geographical position, her magnificent
+harbours and inland sea, the approaches to which
+might be rendered impregnable. It is a rich
+country, with mines of coal and iron, fisheries, and
+a vast maritime population. Japan is coveted alike
+by Russia, America, and France; and its possession
+would enable the power holding to monopolise the
+whole trade in China.</p>
+
+<p>The Japanese naturally fear the steady march of
+Russia towards Japan. They see that in ten years
+China has yielded to that country 900 miles of
+coast, all tending towards the possession of Japan,
+which has harbours open at all seasons of the year,
+while Russia’s boundary line on the islands off the
+coast has brought her to the door of Japan.</p>
+
+<p>It is apparent that if we maintain a proper position
+in Japan, in consideration of our vast Eastern trade,
+England and other nations, not wishing to acquire
+territory, will always be in a position to preserve the
+integrity of Japan.</p>
+
+<p>America has discovered that Yokohama is the
+most convenient place for a depot of coal for her
+4000-ton Pacific steamers, and the United States
+Senior Naval Officer informed me that they intended
+to establish store-houses at Nagasaki for their men-of-war.
+Russia has already a small dockyard at
+Nagasaki.</p>
+
+<p>The French have been, and are still, constructing
+docks, and have established, at the Japanese Government’s
+expense, a small colony at Yokosha, near
+Yokohama.</p>
+
+<p>At present we have as good a footing in Japan as
+any other nation; our trade exceeds that of all others,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>and more British capital has been invested. I am
+urging upon the Admiralty the necessity for building
+a naval hospital at Yokohama, owing to its salubrious
+climate, and also a bungalow for the use of the Naval
+Commander-in-Chief, as there is nothing of the
+kind on the station.</p>
+
+<p>It was proposed last year that I should visit the
+Gulf of Tartary and the Amoor River this summer.
+While at Peking in September, got Sir Rutherford
+Alcock to speak to the Russian Minister, Monsieur
+A. Vlangali, as I did myself afterwards, requesting him
+to mention my intention to the Governor at Nicolai.</p>
+
+<p>Our party was to have consisted of George
+Fitzroy, with his wife and children, Conolly, from
+the Peking Legation, and the Commodore. Fitzroy
+had remained too long in Shanghai, and was obliged
+to start earlier than he intended for a cruise in the
+P. and O. <span class='ships'>Benares</span>. They had reached Yokohama
+the day before I arrived from Hong Kong in the
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> (Mrs. Fitzroy was with him, the children
+remaining at Shanghai). I persuaded him to embark
+immediately on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, where he could have
+the advantage of the best medical advice. Doctor Hill
+took charge of him. We sailed from Yokohama on
+May 19, and arrived at Nagasaki, May 28, passing
+through the inland sea, and unfortunately landed
+Fitzroy apparently no better than when he embarked.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived on 11th from Cheefoo,
+bringing Conolly, who had found his way from
+Peking. <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> (6), Captain Hewitt, arrived on
+14th, bringing our mail and the Commodore. Dr.
+Hill pronounced Fitzroy in too precarious a state to
+embark, and kindly volunteered to remain behind.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_193'>
+  <a href='images/i_193.jpg'><img class='v100' src='images/i_193-t.jpg' alt=''></a>
+  <figcaption>Map—Northern China, with Coast of Siberia.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We had two other passengers, who promised to
+be of much use to us in Russian waters. One was
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span>a Mr. Esche, the tenant of a large extent of the
+coal district in the Island of Saghalien, himself a
+German, but speaking the Russian language fluently;
+the other, Mr. Adams, the contractor, who had
+before been attending a Russian squadron in these
+seas in that capacity, a kind-hearted jolly personage,
+known in the gunroom by the name of “Beef and
+Vegetables.”</p>
+
+<p>From Sir Rutherford Alcock I received a letter
+addressed to himself from the Russian Minister,
+Mr. Vlangali, stating that he had written to Admiral
+Jean Furnhjelm, Governor of the Province and
+Coast, on the subject of my intended visit, that
+although he had not yet received an answer, he was
+sure that orders would everywhere be given, “pour
+faire à votre Amiral tous les soins qui lui sont dûs.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Leaving the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> at Nagasaki, I took a week’s
+cruise in the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, surveying vessel, Commander
+Brooker, during which we passed through Hirado or
+Spex Strait, Commander Brooker having just completed
+a survey of it.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Soon after daylight we weighed in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and
+steamed out of Nagasaki Harbour, steering for
+the beautiful passage through Hirado Strait, which,
+since Brooker’s excellent survey, I considered perfectly
+safe with so good a Staff-Commander as we had in
+Harris. Successfully performed this feat. <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>
+must have been by far the largest ship that ever
+went through. We then shaped a course to the
+westward of Iki, through the East Korea Strait, and
+to the northward along the Korean coast.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Novogorod
+Harbour,
+June&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Novogorod Harbour. In spite of the
+survey of Posietta Bay, the entrance to the harbour
+is difficult to find on a first visit; it is narrow, but
+safe. The settlement, consisting of half-a-dozen
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span>huts, did not look inviting, but the scenery round
+was fine: hills covered with fresh green pasturage
+and brushwood, while well-sheltered harbours within
+extensive bays were seen in every direction. I was
+waited on by Major Pfingsten, the officer in temporary
+charge. He had with him a garrison of fifty
+men, while about nine miles inland they had a large
+encampment. The Governor of Eastern Siberia,
+General Korsakof, and the Lieutenant-Governor,
+Rear-Admiral Furnhjelm, were at a place some
+miles distant, to whom Major Pfingsten telegraphed
+our arrival.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the settlement was a coal mine, which
+they were slowly working with soldiers and such
+tools as they had, assisted just at this time by a dozen
+Manchurian Chinese prisoners, taken in a border warfare,
+in which the Governor, with his Lieutenant and
+a thousand men, was then engaged.</p>
+
+<p>When at Cheefoo in October I heard of an island
+in about latitude 42° 40´ off the coast and claimed
+by the Russians, on which a party of about three
+hundred Chinese were working for gold, which was
+reported to be plentiful; and that the Russians had
+sent a gunboat to drive the Chinese away, who, being
+well armed, had beaten the Russians off: all this, we
+heard from Major Pfingsten, it proved to be true,
+he had only lately returned from an expedition
+to the island of Mayatchni (called in our charts
+“Termination”).</p>
+
+<p>Having no steamer available, he had started in a
+sailing vessel with 600 soldiers, including artillery,
+but as he was six days going the ninety miles, the
+Chinese received timely notice and had wisely decamped.
+When the major arrived he found three
+men only on the island: these he shot to prove who
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span>were the rightful owners of the soil, and then returned.
+The Chinamen, who appear to have come from
+Manchuria, succeeded in stirring up their countrymen
+and brought on this petty border warfare on
+which the Governor and his lieutenant were engaged,
+and which will, in all probability, end in further
+aggression and annexation on the part of the
+Russians.</p>
+
+<p>Whether His Excellency did not approve of our
+visiting his territory when he was engaged in so
+inglorious a warfare, I cannot tell, but the return
+telegraph arrived without a civil word of welcome,
+and with directions to the Major not to supply us
+with coal. The Major rather softened this by
+stating that they expected the Governors in their
+respective vessels, both of which would require coal;
+and certainly the small supply of about twenty tons
+we saw ready on the beach would not have helped
+us much.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay fishing and shooting parties
+went away, but we were too early in the season.
+The ducks were on their eggs, and the salmon,
+so plentiful later, had not arrived. Ducks, geese,
+curlew, pigeon, and widgeon were brought on board
+in small quantities; two or three shots had been
+fired at deer and the footprints of bear had been
+seen; in fact, a guide who had conducted a party
+to the ground most frequented by wild duck had
+killed three bears the day before our arrival.</p>
+
+<p>Tigers are numerous, but only visit the coast in
+the winter, during which time their hair is long and
+their skins handsome. There were in the camp bear
+and otter skins for sale, as well as a few sables, for
+which as much as nine dollars a piece was asked, the
+market value being about a tael or three shillings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Novogorod,
+June.</div>
+
+<p>One day, mounted by the Major on capital ponies,
+Conolly, Garnier, Risk, and self rode to the camp,
+about nine miles distant by land, although two miles
+by water. From the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> you might land within
+half a mile. The ponies, with plain snaffle bits, had
+excellent mouths. At the camp, which was situated
+on a healthy-looking elevated plain on the bank of a
+small river, we found the same sombre-looking
+mechanical soldiers that we saw in the Crimea: smoke
+and drink apparently their only object, no games or
+amusement of any sort going on.</p>
+
+<p>The country appeared to be well supplied with
+cattle, fat and in good condition, but nowhere did
+we see sheep. During our ride we had to cross and
+re-cross a river by ferry.</p>
+
+<p>The Manchurian prisoners were unhappy-looking
+fellows. I saw them one day after returning from
+working at the coal-mines locked up in a wretched
+hut. One of the guard threw a few biscuits on
+the ground, which the last two men picked up,
+probably their only meal. The Major told Conolly
+that he thought his prisoners were belonging to a
+band of rebels that had long infested the north of
+China. He described the men that attacked the
+Russian gunboat party on the island of Mayatchni
+as being well organized and drilled, and he believed
+they had Europeans amongst them. Two of the
+prisoners had been liberated to treat for a ransom.
+Major Pfingsten had not made up his mind whether
+to shoot the prisoners; probably when too weak to
+work any longer at the coal-mine he will do so.
+There were two long sheds full of grain, brought all
+the way from Cronstadt.</p>
+
+<p>The soil appears in every way adapted for either
+cultivation or pasture, but beyond the herds of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span>bullocks no attempt was made to cause it to support
+the human beings located. The few women there
+were at the settlement and in the camp were of a low
+sort—convicts. Every encouragement was given
+to any soldier who would take one to wife and settle
+in the country, land being given gratis, but no advantage
+appeared to be taken of this. We were recommended
+not to send our clothes on shore to be
+washed, as they would probably be stolen.</p>
+
+<p>The Major was married, his wife being the only
+person worthy the appellation of lady; an agreeable
+person, with good eyes and teeth; she came on board
+to breakfast and enjoyed our band.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>At 9.45 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> steamer’s lights were observed outside,
+and shortly afterwards our Staff-Commander
+piloted the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> in, bringing our mail from
+Shanghai.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>At half-past ten weighed under steam, in company
+with <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. She having some defect in her machinery,
+was directed to Vladivostock, which Captain Courtenay
+in his excellent report describes as somewhat more
+cheery and civilized than Novogorod. Although
+<span class='ships'>Salamis’s</span> defects were nothing but what she could
+put to rights with her own engineers, she was to
+rejoin us in Castrie’s Bay. Afternoon, all being well,
+clear of the bay, got screw up, having only just coal
+enough to keep us in distilled water. Stood to the
+eastward, and when well off shore, shaped a course
+up the Gulf of Tartary.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Saghalien.
+Usu Bay.
+July&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Made Cape Lamanon on the coast of Saghalien.
+At 7, came to in 7 fathoms in Usu Bay. Here
+we found a straggling village of Ainos, all fishermen.
+A small stream ran into the sea, off the mouth of
+which their nets were arranged, forming three sides
+of a square, the fourth open on the land side. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span>outside was about a cable’s length from the shore, the
+two sides extending the whole length, close to the
+outside net. But on the inside they had another net
+which appeared to lie on the bottom; this they drew
+up every now and then, generally bringing up from
+thirty to fifty salmon. A few buttons or a bit of
+silver would buy as many as we liked to take.</p>
+
+<p>We found a Japanese trading junk from Hakodadi,
+bringing salt and rice in exchange for dried fish and
+seaweed. The Russians appeared to assume authority
+over the more simple Ainos, and I have no doubt
+drove lucrative bargains. The hills and woods, with
+the green grass, had, from the ship, an inviting
+appearance which was dispelled on attempting to
+walk, owing to the rank vegetation and myriads of
+mosquitoes. The Ainos themselves were as dirty as
+need be. In a cage was the usual bear, petted and
+fattened to be killed and eaten at the annual festival
+amidst lamentations and rejoicings, when all get
+drunk who can. They had a few skins for sale, and
+among them Dr. Fegan, with the assistance of Adams,
+succeeded in getting me three tolerably good sables.</p>
+
+<p>A little to the northward of where we anchored
+there was a larger river, apparently full of salmon;
+although they would not take the flies offered them,
+no end of smaller salmon and trout of about a quarter
+of a pound were landed as fast as the lines could
+be applied. After I had returned on board in the
+afternoon, I observed from the stern walk an unusual
+commotion among the native fishing-boats that had
+spread their nets off the mouth of the stream; one
+of our boats on its way to the ship with the wardroom
+officers, coming off to dinner, had been attracted to
+the spot. There was cheering and shots were fired.
+One of the cutters was ready manned, alongside.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span>Calling the Commodore, we jumped into her, followed
+by Garnier, who took the precaution to bring a
+couple of rifle carbines—always ready with ammunition
+in the fore cabin. It was a curious and exciting
+scene. A whale had got entangled in the fishermen’s
+net and was floundering about in its endeavours to
+escape. Our boats with those of the natives formed
+three sides of a square just outside the edge of the net,
+that side next the shore it being unnecessary to guard.
+Every minute or so the monster raised his huge head
+to blow—I expect as much to look about him—and
+then exposed his body as he dived. On each occasion
+he was assailed by shots, spears, and lances. Although
+I had seen thousands of whales, I never before had
+been within boat-hook’s length of a live one. Each
+time his head appeared the Commodore and I sent a
+rifle bullet into it.</p>
+
+<p>While the natives plunged lances, the beast spouted
+blood and water; twice he tried to hoist the cutter,
+but with the crew we were too heavy for him, as
+he only tilted us on one side; this work had lasted
+nearly half an hour, and we thought his strength
+exhausted, when the infuriated animal, probably
+pierced deeper by one of the lances, made a final
+effort. Lashing his tail, he dashed through the net,
+lifted one of the lighter native boats, out of which
+the crew had previously escaped, into the air, and
+made for the deep, leaving a wake of blood.</p>
+
+<p>It is to be hoped that the poor natives whose
+net he destroyed will be rewarded in a day or two by
+finding his body. I was struck by the number of
+dogs there were on shore, all apparently in good
+condition. They were sledge dogs, and in the
+morning two teams of them were scampering along
+the beach towing boats; there was no one on shore
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span>to guide them, and they appeared to enjoy the
+fun.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> under plain sail. Observing
+on the chart there were two lagoons near the
+coast, likely for wild fowl, visited them. On standing
+in shore, we suddenly took the bottom; last cast
+in the chains was 12 fathoms. Had to lay out
+stream and heave off; water smooth, weather fine, but
+bottom foul. It was 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before we took up our
+berth in 7 fathoms, about two miles from the
+shore.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>The spot we selected for our picnic was on a
+bank about half cable wide that separated the northern
+lagoon from the sea. There was the usual bar; the sea
+being smooth, one of our boats passed up. We saw
+no natives, but near where we landed was a hut, the
+residence of fishermen during the last season. By
+the number of heads hung up to dry (as winter food
+for the sleigh dogs), salmon must have been large and
+plentiful. Eight and a half couple of wild ducks
+were bagged by the parties “gunning.” The lagoons
+appeared to be bordered by long grass and sedges
+and surrounded by hills covered with firs; these
+woods were difficult to get through, not so much
+from underwood as from the enormous quantity of
+decayed and fallen timber, which was covered with
+moss or hid by ferns, and treacherous to tread on.
+Beyond the hut mentioned, I can imagine no ground
+better adapted for the breeding of wild-fowl. None
+of the pine trees appeared to grow to any size. In
+working his way through the wood Heneage disturbed
+a covey of birds, quite young, about a dozen
+of them; we shot one, a pheasant.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Najassi,
+July&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>9.15 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed and made sail. Our next
+place was to be Najassi, some fourteen miles farther
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span>to the northward, where Mr. Esche had a small
+settlement and a grant of an extensive coal district;
+We came to in the afternoon off his house, determined
+to coal during continuance of fine weather.
+We found Mr. Esche’s hut on the right bank of a
+small stream, the inhabitants of the settlement consisting
+of one Russian and a boy; they appeared
+happy and contented, netting as much salmon as
+they required for use, drying and salting others for
+winter food. They were occasionally visited by
+bears. Although provided with a double-barrelled
+rifle, Esche never liked to fire for fear of provoking
+an attack.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Najassi.</div>
+
+<p>However, he showed me, in case of Bruin’s coming
+to close quarters, a formidable-looking spear,
+which was kept inside the house. There had been
+some Chinese coolies and boat-builders, but they preferred
+the society of Nicholai.</p>
+
+<p>Green hills rose everywhere from the beach, intersected
+at two or three hundred yards by ravines
+and rivulets, while patches of coal were seen cropping
+out in all directions, at the foot, at the sides and tops,
+every convenient height for mining. The great and
+only drawback to this valuable property was the
+want of a harbour or shelter for coal-lighters.
+About four miles to the southward of where Mr.
+Esche had built his hut is a small river, inside which
+there is a good boat harbour; but, like all the other
+streams, there is a bar on which the surf must always
+break, except in the finest weather.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Coaling was performed by our own people filling
+bags and then loading alternately our pinnace and a
+boat belonging to the settlement, which was towed
+backwards and forwards by the steam launch; by
+these means we managed to get about forty tons per
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>day. While the coaling was going on, our usual
+sporting parties were formed. There was but little
+for the guns, but the salmon were in and swarming
+up both the streams and river to the southward.
+Although small salmon and trout of about six inches
+long were caught by hundreds with every sort of bait,
+no salmon of any size would look at a fly, so we were
+obliged to resort to other means. The stream at
+the settlement was ascended many miles into the
+interior between the mountains, the water tumbling
+into deep pools at ten or twelve feet distances—these
+were black at the bottom with large fish. To get at
+them a net was placed across the stream below; we,
+with spears and grains, standing on boulders or seated
+across a fallen tree, had great excitement and fun, as
+the salmon, started from the pool by means of long
+poles, made across the shallows for the nearest hole.</p>
+
+<p>A score of fine fish, from eight to fourteen pounds,
+were taken this way in one day; but none, except
+those that had been wounded, could be driven into
+the net. Another party remained at a pool, some
+two miles up the stream, all night, and had great
+sport in spearing salmon by torchlight.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Najassi,
+July&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>The ascent up the stream was difficult and tedious;
+the banks, from wood and vegetation, except for a
+yard or two here and there, were impassable, independently
+of the most formidable mosquitoes,
+while the stream was rapid and the large water-washed
+stones smooth and slippery. Nevertheless, substantial
+meals and everything requisite to support the inward
+man were conveyed up. The larger river to the
+southward was where there were most fish: these likewise
+took no notice of the fly, but the roe from the
+female salmon was immediately taken by a large fish,
+who leapt some feet out of the water on first taste of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span>the hook, and then making a bolt down stream,
+round a boulder, disappeared with some fathoms of
+line.</p>
+
+<p>On a flat piece of ground between the sea and
+the left bank of the river (here deep and some sixty
+yards wide), there is an Aino village of fishermen,
+the chief more respectable-looking than the generality
+of his countrymen, but with the left side of his face
+bandaged up, having suffered from the claw of a bear.
+Three or four of them would go in a rickety
+boat, and with a small net draw one of the many
+pools, bringing out at each draught some forty or
+fifty fine salmon; these fellows were at first liberal
+enough with their fish, allowing you to take what
+you wanted for a small coin, a little cloth or rum,
+but afterwards, when they had got all they wanted,
+had the impudence to demand a dollar for one fish,
+so that it became high time that we should help ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>The ship’s seine was brought and cast outside the
+mouth of the river, when, in a few hauls, some five
+hundred salmon were taken—more than enough for
+the ship’s company and some to salt besides.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>We weighed and shifted under sail to a bay called
+Pilyawo.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Being the Sabbath we remained quiet, with the
+exception of sending a boat to communicate with a
+German vessel that took Mr. Esche on to Castries
+Bay.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Joined by <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, and the following day we
+sailed in company.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Tonquiera Bay, <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> going to
+Duè to fill up coal.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at daylight and stood to Castries Bay,
+where we came to in the evening, finding <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span>Heard by her of the sad death at Nagasaki of poor
+George Fitzroy. I cannot say that it was quite
+unexpected, almost every one but his charming wife
+felt he could not recover. On our departure for the
+Russian coast I had left our clever surgeon Hill to
+look after him. In the Crimea I attended the deathbed
+of the elder brother, Augustus. Just as I arrived
+at Sierra Leone in February 1861, Arthur Fitzroy, in
+command of the <span class='ships'>Falcon</span>, died of fever. As children
+at the Cape we had all four played together.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Rattler</span> rejoining in the night, shifted flag to
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. It was a gratification to see young Harry
+Stephenson in all the pride of a “first command.”
+On Sunday I dined on board his ship, and slept
+on board the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, preparatory to a start for
+Nicholai, pilots having been most willingly provided
+by the officials.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+July&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Little to remark going up. Channel muddy and
+intricate, with the distant shore of Saghalien scarcely
+visible to the eastward. There were buoys at some
+of the angles, and beacons on the land to the westward,
+to place which the pine-trees had been cleared
+away. Our leadsmen frequently had “1/4 less 2,” but
+we never stopped.</p>
+
+<p>Snow-white fish, not porpoises—they said, were
+tumbling about: round snouts, blow-hole on back
+of head, 7 or 8 feet long, not fit for food. As
+we neared the entrance, occasional fishing villages
+were seen, with no end of salmon drying, dogs and
+dirt to any amount.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCIII">
+    CHAPTER XCIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Flag in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span></span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1868.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+July 27.
+Nicholai.</div>
+
+<p>6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Arrived off Nicholai, 120 miles from
+Castries Bay; current strong against us. On anchoring,
+was waited on by officers from the two vessels-of-war,
+offering services; also an officer, in full dress,
+from the Commandant, wishing to know at what time
+I should land. Having arranged for 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> on the
+morrow, was received on landing by the Commandant,
+Captain Fukevitche, of the Navy; numerous
+decorations. We landed, a large party; besides self
+and staff, Commodore, Conolly and Stephenson. Proceeded
+in the first place to call on Madame Furnhjelm,
+wife of the Governor, who was also an admiral;
+daily expected from the southward. Nothing could
+be kinder or more cordial than my reception.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nicholai,
+July&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>A small detached house, evidently the Governor’s
+office, was placed at my disposal, everything convenient,
+clean and comfortable for “one party”—a
+guard and orderlies outside, a note from Madame
+stating that I should be daily expected at dinner,
+breakfast and luncheon being sent to my room.
+The Commandant then showed all the public establishments,
+hospital, dockyards, etc., which were all very
+well and wonderful for so distant a settlement.</p>
+
+<p>But nothing bores me so much as this official sight-seeing,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span>so took advantage of the first opportunity
+to excuse myself, as I had friends on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>
+to luncheon, and then returned to my allotted
+quarters, where my things had been conveyed.
+While putting on my “citizen’s dress,” a luxury
+in which no Russian officer ever indulges, a rather
+good-looking but powerful Russian girl walked in,
+and placed a salmon, fresh butter, caviare, cheese,
+sherry and port on the table.</p>
+
+<p>The Commodore, Garnier, and Dob Crosbie
+rather liking the appearance of things, we changed
+our minds about luncheon on board. Afterwards
+took a stroll with Conolly. Plan of future city well
+laid out. Streets wide, although stumps of forest
+trees still retain their places. Population said to be
+five thousand, of which three thousand are military.
+The club was kindly placed at the disposal of our
+officers, but most of the Russians being here on
+punishment, much was not expected of them, and
+collision rather avoided.</p>
+
+<p>The rooms offered were unfurnished, but speedily
+filled with pillows, blankets, saddles, carpet-bags,
+etc. A little later, party of a dozen were mounted
+on hired ponies galloping into the country, headed
+by good-natured lieutenant Peakroff of the Russian
+Navy.</p>
+
+<p>There are several stores kept by Germans and
+Americans, full of “notions,” in which furs and skins
+may be picked up, but no criterion of the proper price
+of things could be formed from what was asked of us,
+supposed, “rich English.” Small parties of unclean
+natives, with hair uncombed, wearing their shirts outside,
+fastened at the waist, and sealskin boots, prowled
+about the streets jungle fashion. They generally have
+sables concealed on their persons for barter, which
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span>does not diminish the offensive smell of the uncured
+skins.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div>
+
+<p>Their mode of dealing is curious. A party of
+five or six walk into a room without uttering a
+word or appearing to take notice of anything. They
+squat down in an extended ring according to the size
+of the room, and commence smoking. After a lapse
+of some minutes one of them draws a sable from
+under his clothes with the fur inside, and chucks it
+into the middle of the circle. The owner of the house,
+who has been attending to other things with a studied
+indifference has (by accident of course!) to pass
+through the room, takes up the skin, examines the fur
+inside, and makes an offer, generally of cloth or
+tobacco. If it comes up to their idea they take it and
+walk off. If not the skin is returned to its savoury
+berth. They separate without comment.</p>
+
+<p>When back to my quarters there was another note
+from Madame Furnhjelm, inviting Conolly and Pusey
+to dine there every evening during our stay.</p>
+
+<p>Conolly went to answer in person, proposing that
+during the absence of the Admiral, her husband, we
+might be allowed to avail ourselves of the use of the
+club, dine at the <i lang='fr'>table d’hôte</i>, and wait on her in the
+evening. Such an arrangement this kind lady would
+not hear of. She is a fine handsome woman, of
+English parents, full of anecdote and information,
+with a family of three or four: a wonderful performer
+on the piano. Her husband had been
+Governor of Russian America, since sold to the
+United States. The tea she gave us was excellent,
+and, as I had often heard of Russian tea, superior
+to anything we got in China.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor of Eastern Siberia is General Korsakof,
+a young man who commanded at Petropauloviski
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span>at the time of our absurd expedition in 1855. He
+rode night and day to St. Petersburg, which he
+reached in an extraordinary short time, with the
+account of our defeat. He went into the presence
+of Nicholas I. a captain, and left it a general. I
+regret we are not to see him here, he having returned
+inland from Port Vladivostock.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>While dressing, my servant informed me that a fine
+ham and two eggs had been sent for my breakfast.
+The ham was of the wild boar, excellent, but of
+immense size.</p>
+
+<p>Pusey had sent the boats of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> about
+five miles down to the mouth of a small river on the
+north bank with the seines: a good excuse for a
+picnic. The Commodore, Conolly, Crosbie, Garnier,
+and self, were kindly mounted by the Commandant;
+we went by a tolerably good road. They had had
+two good hauls, taking about three hundred fish
+before we got there; after luncheon the net, a small
+one with a bag, was laid out a few yards higher up
+the river, and in less than ten minutes upwards of a
+thousand salmon and trout were landed, independently
+of about three hundred returned to the river, said to
+be spawning. They were distinguished by an extraordinary
+rounding of the back.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinners with Madame Furnhjelm were
+excellent—some strange Russian dishes, intended for
+our edification, but everything in English style. In
+the evening some ladies dropped in, mostly speaking
+English, and we had singing and music. The days
+were long, and between dinner and tea Madame took
+me a drive in her carriage, ponies rough, but strong
+and fat.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The
+Amoor,
+July&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>A small iron steamer about sixty feet long, and
+drawing only two feet water, was placed at our
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span>disposal for a trip up the Amoor. Some hopes of
+wild fowl were held out. We started a large party;
+two Russian officers speaking French accompanied us.
+The vessel was named the Russian for “Courier,”
+and attached to the telegraph department, the line
+taking the right bank of the river. She was kept
+with the apparatus on board ready for repairing accidents
+to the wire. She could go 1500 miles up the
+Amoor, which river was of a red muddy colour,
+rendering the contrast great as the white, silvery
+backs of the fish showed above as they tumbled over.</p>
+
+<p>We kept up the right bank, which rose precipitately,
+except at the ravines, which occurred every quarter
+of a mile, where there was a rivulet, a small
+Russian hut, a settlement, a place for drying fish
+or the cutting up of timber for fire or building
+purposes. About 12 miles up we came to a Russian
+village; a picnic being the principal object, a shady
+spot was selected, and fire lighted.</p>
+
+<p>After the songs were expended, only three sportsmen
+could be found to proceed up the river in a
+canoe in search of wild fowl, while none could be
+found to face the wood, so well guarded by
+mosquitoes. Grouse were said to abound, but in all
+probability looking after their young broods. The
+remainder of us proceeded in the steamer, another
+mile up, to a Gilak village called Kaki. It was the
+season for drying fish, and anything more offensive
+than the smell could not be.</p>
+
+<p>There were bears in different parts of the village:
+one, an immensely powerful brute, confined in a log-hut,
+from whom it took three men to draw a stick
+one of them had thrust through the bars, which
+Bruin had seized in his paw. There were two smaller
+ones in separate cages, and in one of the houses we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span>saw two young ones, which had been caught as cubs,
+and with the natives were quite tame, although fully
+aware of the presence of strangers.</p>
+
+<p>Dogs for winter sleighs were innumerable, all
+apparently in good condition, and with few exceptions
+secured in irons. The inside of the houses had
+fires in the centre for cooking, and a raised platform
+about five feet wide attached to the wall. The interiors
+were not inviting; the drinking and cooking
+utensils were of the most primitive description, made
+out of the bark of the white beech.</p>
+
+<p>In one hut there was the only pretty native we
+had seen, a young creature with an infant, whom she
+rocked in the most ingenious of cradles. A Russian
+officer, struck with the young lady’s charms, purchased
+her on the spot, and arranged her transport to
+his quarters with as much <i lang='fr'>sang-froid</i> as if he had been
+ordering a case of champagne to be sent there.
+Conolly bought a cradle similar to the one we had
+just seen, but not the kid which was lying in it!</p>
+
+<p>Returned to the Russian village to pick up the
+sportsmen. Return of game, nil. It is said this
+race of Gilaks is fast becoming extinct, through the
+ravages of small-pox.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>According to previous arrangement Madame
+Furnhjelm came to see the ships, bringing with her
+the wife of Captain Riskoff of the Russian Navy, she
+also speaking English. We steamed up the river;
+but the afternoon setting in rainy, after going
+some 15 miles with little variety of scene, we
+anchored and had tiffin and then back, having recourse
+to whist, Madame Riskoff playing a remarkably
+good game.</p>
+
+<p>Conolly and self had made up our minds, if we
+could get the use of a small steamer, to go up the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span>Amoor and Usuri rivers so as to join the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>
+at Vladivostock by going about 150 miles overland
+after leaving the Usuri.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div>
+
+<p>As the time for the departure of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> to
+save the mail at Shanghai was at hand, and the
+Governor still absent, I wrote a private note to the
+Commandant, asking if he could provide me with a
+steamer; but in Russia a subordinate dare not take
+the slightest responsibility; so the reply, official, and
+written in the best of English, was vague. He could
+let me have a steamer as far as Hovorafka, the
+junction of the Usuri, but had no power to send her
+beyond, and that the post horses had been removed
+from Bonsey on account of the border war; this was
+the place we should have landed at, to cross over to
+Vladivostock. However, a telegram announced the
+arrival of the Admiral in Castries Bay, so I deferred
+the departure of <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> until noon of the 2nd,
+while I was prepared to depart at that hour by either
+route.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>The Commodore, Conolly, Pusey, and self, dined
+with Madame Furnhjelm. Just before the dinner
+hour the steamer with Governor-Admiral hove
+in sight, but this kind lady declined to excuse us; she
+said two hours must elapse before the steamer could
+come up against the stream and anchor. We, however,
+withdrew in time not to be present at the first
+meeting after three months’ absence. The Admiral
+could not have been at home five minutes before he
+came in full costume to call on me, in his own house,
+after which we returned to tea with Madame. Admiral
+Furnhjelm is a hale, handsome man of about
+fifty, rather bald, gray hair, with very black eyebrows,
+manner most cordial and kind. I did not allude
+to the letter I had written relative to ascending the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>Usuri, but His Excellency remarked that he had heard
+of my visit, I suppose from his wife, and that there
+were many difficulties, but that he would give me an
+answer before ten o’clock the following morning.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>We had made our arrangements for either route,
+but, I must confess, with some anxiety as to the
+result. No more novel or agreeable trip could be
+conceived than that we had proposed by river.</p>
+
+<p>Precisely at the appointed time, the Admiral, with
+a large map, at once laid before us what he conceived
+to be great difficulties. The insurrection and invasion
+to the southward by these Chinese rebels had
+caused them to withdraw all the horses along the
+post road for the use of the troops; that the rebels,
+although dispersed, were not subdued, and might be
+marauding the country, and that beyond the point
+called Bonsey, he could not be responsible for our
+lives. Most of these difficulties could, he said, in a
+couple of weeks, be overcome, and an escort got
+ready.</p>
+
+<p>However, kindly placed before us as it was, it was
+evident we were not wanted, so we put the best face
+on our disappointment, thanked him all the same, but
+declined attempting the journey.</p>
+
+<p>A parting breakfast was prepared for us, and our
+party having embarked, <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> weighed, and soon
+was passing rapidly down the river, assisted by the
+current. The battery saluted with fifteen guns,
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> having fired a similar number on arrival of
+the Admiral in Castries Bay without a return.</p>
+
+<p>Our pilot was an intelligent young officer who had
+himself planned and placed the numerous buoys and
+landmarks, without which no one, however experienced,
+could guide a vessel clear of the shoals. The landmarks
+are ingeniously arranged, being triangular
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span>whitewashed frames, showing the rear higher than
+the other. To place these the dark-looking fir-trees
+had been felled in the line, and the landmarks were
+seldom visible more than one pair at a time.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>We anchored in Castries Bay a little after 1 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>,
+and might have done the distance within the
+twelve hours had it not been for the dense fogs so
+prevalent in these seas, especially on the China side.
+The pilot, who had run for a high bluff, had a curious
+way of ascertaining its vicinity in a fog, or at night,
+by blowing the steam whistle; if near the high land
+there would be an echo.</p>
+
+<p>With this assurance he suddenly put his helm
+hard-a-port and stood boldly in until within range of
+the <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> responding guns and the curious glare of
+the blue lights which could scarcely penetrate the fog.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</div>
+
+<p>During the two days here made several attempts
+to dredge for shells, but with trifling success. The
+steam launch being well adapted, fishing parties
+away catching large quantities of whiting, which were
+excellent. They seized at any bait with which the
+hook was covered; some rock cod were caught in
+same way—in the seine, off the mouths of three
+rivers, 435 salmon and trout and 1450 flat fish.
+Several broods of young grouse perched in trees were
+seen by walking parties. During our picnics, where
+our dredging parties landed, I had much difficulty in
+preventing the men from taking the numerous young
+birds that were found in the holes and crevices of
+rocks, Jack always fancying that because the small
+things opened their mouths he could feed and rear
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest number were a species of diver about
+the size of a widgeon, with the brightest orange-coloured
+legs and beak, with ornamental horns or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span>plumes on each side of the head; the plumage black—eye,
+light green with small black spot in centre;
+narrow red edge to eyelid. The flight was rapid,
+like others of the species. We shot a few as specimens.
+Among them a bird, with a sharp-pointed bill,
+upper one slightly hooked, as if for extracting fish
+from shells, with still brighter red legs, same colour
+inside the mouth, plumage black, eye black.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Rattler</span> despatched to coal at Duè and then to
+stop <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> with our mail at Possiette Bay.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Duè,
+Aug.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Sailed soon after daylight for Duè, off which we
+arrived at 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Observed <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> steaming to the
+southward, <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> at anchor—a Russian transport
+apparently in a hurry coaling, the lighters grounding
+at low water. It being spring tides, therefore dispatched
+<span class='ships'>Rattler</span> with what she had, and proceeded to
+coal ourselves, with the two lighters they had spared
+the <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>. A convenient wooden pier enabled our
+people, with the use of the Russian carts that ran
+along a tramway, to coal pretty well. The village
+looked wretched and dirty. There were barracks,
+hospital, and storehouses.</p>
+
+<p>On an eminence to the northward is a tolerable
+lighthouse—some small gardens up the two ravines,
+down which the village is watered. The population
+consisted chiefly of convicts. Coal appeared to crop
+out in all directions.</p>
+
+<p>The Commandant was a sort of Cossack savage
+of low rank, but, although generally under
+the influence of drink, always treated me with
+military respect. His garrison consisted of about
+fifteen persons, distinguished from the villagers by
+being allowed, occasionally, to shave. The women
+were repulsive-looking, and all wore great boots.
+The Commandant always presented me with an
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span>official return of the state of his garrison, which no
+one could decipher. Drunkenness was the order of
+the day. A small log-shed with a hole about eighteen
+inches square was the only receptacle for such as
+could not stand. Into this they were thrust head
+foremost by those that could, and from which they
+came out, I suppose, when able to do so without help.</p>
+
+<p>The evening before we sailed some of our officers
+assembled for a convivial evening at the Commandant’s.
+In the middle of a song his wife withdrew
+behind a screen that divided the apartment, and a
+few minutes afterwards a noise, as from a kid,
+announced the birth of a child, which proved to be the
+son and heir. Instead of retiring and leaving the lady in
+her trouble, a toast was drunk and an impromptu song
+in honour of the little stranger. I had called on
+the lady two days before and observed nothing particular
+except that she looked like a Cossack without
+a beard.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Having completed coaling (coal six roubles per
+ton), and settled accounts, we weighed. Some
+twelve miles to the southward we had heard of a
+place, “Adnginoo,” with a river, and fish and crystals
+to be picked up; we came to abreast of it. The
+river, like all others along the coast, has a bar entrance—a
+short distance up it is exceedingly picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>Some of our party ascended in the light boats of
+the Gelyaks. There were the usual small villages at
+the mouth, with dried fish, sleigh dogs, confined bears,
+smell and dirt. Natives, a quiet inoffensive race,
+their only weapon a fish spear. One seining party
+had several good hauls, getting, besides salmon, what
+our fishermen called cucumber smelts; they certainly
+smelt of cucumber, and were good eating. Several
+fish were also taken. I pinned one down in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span>river with a boat-hook. With the dense wood and
+covert along the coast and mountains the nearly total
+absence of any living thing was remarkable. High
+up the river, a rather peculiar mussel was found, so
+thick and firmly implanted that the bottom of the
+river had the appearance of pavement. I obtained
+specimens. A fresh breeze having sprung up from
+the westward, we hurried our sportsmen on board
+and weighed under sail. There might have been
+crystal caves in the neighbourhood, but we found
+nothing beyond broken stones with small pieces of
+crystal attached. With the dredge I had no success.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCIV">
+    CHAPTER XCIV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1868.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>,
+Aug.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Vladivostock Harbour: usual salutes.
+Etholin, the Commandant, had promised a deer-shooting
+day before we left. Lately the rain had
+fallen regularly. The season was early, but our
+time and provisions were short. At an early
+hour <span class='ships'>Ogle</span>, with fifty marines, landed to assist in
+driving. There was a small peninsula, the neck of
+which was not more than one hundred yards across.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Vladivostock.</div>
+
+<p>The deer were in plenty, but not easily circumvented.
+Three only were seen to take to the isthmus;
+the remainder broke through the line of beaters, who
+were armed with pikes only. When our party of
+twelve arrived in steam launch, one of the three deer
+had taken to the water and escaped.</p>
+
+<p>A two-mile walk through swampy ground brought
+us to the isthmus, where the cordon of marines was
+drawn. Of our party, Rose volunteered when half-way
+through the swamp to go back and send the
+launch to the next bay. He met with his reward.</p>
+
+<p>Of the two deer that had been driven, one only
+turned up on the return, and observing the men
+stationed across the neck of land took to the water
+on the opposite side, to which the launch was coming.
+No time was lost in hauling the native boat, in tow,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span>over the land into the sea on the opposite side; the
+young stag swam well, but a bullet from Rose’s gun
+divided the spine; the poor animal was brought in
+triumph to the shore. It was a large force to
+welcome the one trophy, but the excitement was
+great.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+Aug.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>At sunset flag was transferred to <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, and on
+29th we parted company with <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, to meet again
+(D.V.) in four months’ time. <span class='ships'>Basilisk</span> had sailed at
+daylight for Hong Kong with our mails and herself
+for return home.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hakodadi,
+Aug.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Started for Hakodadi; arrived on 31st, but
+finding no coal proceeded same day. Some little
+excitement had been caused at Hakodadi by the
+arrival of one of the vessels engaged in the Macao
+coolie or slave trade. The old story—the coolies
+found they had been taken in; watched their opportunity,
+murdered the crew. They had evidently
+been to the coast of Siberia, and afterwards drifted
+into Volcano Bay, when some Japs brought them
+into Hakodadi.</p>
+
+<p>The first person on board was Mr. Butcher, our
+contractor, who, finding a British flag hoisted, claimed
+her as his property. The American Consul being
+next on board discovered <em>his</em> national flag, on which
+he hauled down the English and substituted the stars
+and stripes. However, the Japs, being assured that
+they, in the absence of the real owner, had the best
+claim, took advantage of the darkness of night to
+take an overhand knot in the fly of the stripes and
+hoisted the Japanese flag: this was considered by the
+United States Consul a great insult to his nation;
+hence the excitement. A piece of absurdity in which
+I did not interfere, except in giving my opinion that
+the United States Consul had no more right to hoist
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>his flag than our contractor had the English! However,
+I left them to settle it their own way.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama,
+Sept.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>At sunset we arrived in Yokohama Bay; found
+<span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>. Civil War progressing; the
+Mikado’s Government in possession. Our Naval
+Instructors of Japanese could not go on with their
+work, and not caring to be paid for nothing, tendered
+their resignations through me to Sir Harry Parkes.</p>
+
+<p>This the Japanese gladly accepted, as it enabled them
+to get rid of the French Military Instructors, who,
+through their late minister, had shown a decided preference
+to the Tycoon; besides, their demands for
+payment were out of proportion to their services.
+They were angry with the perfidious English for
+having set the example of not receiving pay for that
+they did not do. From information we had gained
+during our northern cruise, it was considered desirable
+that the Russians should be looked up, to the northward
+of Yesso, and as this was an affair in which the
+French minister considered they had an equal interest,
+the <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> and <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> were told off for that service.</p>
+
+<p>The mail from England arrived, bringing me the
+sad news of my dear friend Rajah Brooke’s death; a
+final paralytic seizure from which he never rallied.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote"><span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+Hong
+Kong,
+Sept.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>We started for Osaka, hurried to Nagasaki, communicated
+with <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> at Woosung, went to
+Shanghai, Amoy, and Hong Kong, arriving there on
+October 14. Here was stationed the <i>Princess
+Charlotte</i>, bearing the broad pennant of Commodore
+Oliver Jones, an eccentric good fellow, who managed
+the dockyard and south part of the station; in the
+hot season he generally came on leave and joined the
+Commander-in-Chief in the north and cooler parts.
+The <span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span> was jury-rigged, the same I
+had seen launched at Portsmouth when the dock
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span>broke in September 1825. Jones kept the smaller
+vessels in a constant move, and I believe outdid his
+chief in hospitality. He was a good draughtsman as
+well, fond of sport; later on he ended his days in the
+hunting field.</p>
+
+<p>Heard at Hong Kong that on August 22 and
+23 the home of Mr. Taylor and other members
+of the China Inland Mission had been attacked,
+pillaged, and partially burnt. The residents were
+pelted with stones, one having his sight much injured,
+while the wife of one of the missionaries, although
+far advanced in pregnancy, was obliged to jump out
+of a window. These missionary ladies do their hair
+in Chinese style, and wear the Chinese costume, and
+look remarkably well in it—from their fairness and
+size, being a vast improvement on their models.</p>
+
+<p>The outrages resulted from placards prepared by
+the literati of the district, who endeavoured to excite
+the rancour of the mob by proclaiming that the missionaries
+scooped out the eyes of the dying, and opened
+Foundling Hospitals that they might eat children and
+prepare medicine from their brains. Previous to the
+attack, Mr. Taylor earnestly sought protection from
+the local Chinese authorities, begging that the placards
+might be taken down, but without avail.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, Commander Robinson, proceeded
+to Chinkiang and Nankin on September 3, conveying
+Mr. Consul Medhurst from Shanghai, whose
+representations resulted in a proclamation acknowledging
+the right of foreigners to reside in the
+country, and enjoining the people to respect them.
+A promise was also made of reparation to those who
+were injured.</p>
+
+<p>At this stage, Commander Bush of the <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>,
+having an attack of illness, started off to Shanghai,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>leaving Mr. Medhurst in a house-boat to settle the
+affair. No sooner was the protection or prestige of
+the man-of-war removed than the Chinese authorities
+became insolent, refusing to grant the Consul the
+interview he had a right to demand, and withdrew all
+their previous concessions. At the same time the
+literati published fresh placards, threatening to burn
+down any house rented by foreigners, refusing them
+the right of residence at Chinkiang. Mr. Medhurst,
+failing in his negotiation, returned to Hong Kong to
+await further instructions from Sir Rutherford Alcock.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>To Macao in packet steamer. Joined following
+day by <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+Affairs in
+Formosa,
+Nov.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>After we were under weigh in Macao roads, a
+gunboat joined us from Hong Kong with the
+northern mail, bringing pressing letters for my
+interference in Formosa. Having previously made
+arrangements for all contingencies, proceeded on the
+route I had arranged for visiting the southern part
+of the station. I had left the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> at Shanghai,
+with instructions to Captain Heneage to carry out
+the views of the Consul, Mr. (afterwards Sir Walter)
+Medhurst, and render him every support. Directions
+were also given to prepare such a force as would
+overawe the troublesome Tontais in Formosa.
+Captain Heneage proceeded in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, and
+<span class='ships'>Stanley</span> in company, to Nankin, where he was reinforced
+by Lord Charles Scott in the <span class='ships'>Icarus</span> and
+the <span class='ships'>Zebra</span>, Commander Trollope. Mr. Medhurst was
+on board the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p>
+
+<p>It became apparent that the Viceroy, Tseng Kuo-fau,
+rested his faith on diplomatic fencing. The first
+step of our diplomacy was to seize the Chinese screw
+gunboat <span class='ships'>Tien Chi</span> as a material guarantee for fulfilment
+of the claims of our Consul. One of these was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span>that proclamations engraved on stone should be
+erected in the principal places, acknowledging the full
+right of Europeans to reside and exercise their calling.
+Compensation was demanded for the injuries inflicted
+on the persons and property of the missionaries;
+these and some minor demands were at once
+conceded, and the gun-boat was released.</p>
+
+<p>Subsequently the Consul, accompanied by a strong
+landing party from the ships, under the immediate
+command of Captain Heneage, proceeded to Yeng
+Cheow, where they remained until the Viceroy’s concessions
+were enforced.</p>
+
+<p>During the past year British subjects and other
+foreigners have been repeatedly maltreated by people
+connected with the local authorities at Taiwan and
+Takan in Formosa. The Tontai attempted to carry
+out a monopoly of the camphor trade. Six thousand
+dollars’ worth of that drug, owned by Messrs. Ellis
+and Co., was seized. An Englishman named Haidore
+was stabbed. Dr. Maxwell, a missionary, was accused
+of murder, and the mode of proving his guilt was
+somewhat curious. A mob, bearing on their shoulders
+a native joss, carried it round the house, and suddenly
+stopping, the hand of the image was made to point
+to a certain spot, where they commenced digging.</p>
+
+<p>To the astonishment of the Doctor, a number of
+human bones were turned up, which, of course, had
+been previously placed there. Notice of this
+“discovery” was published, stating that the bones
+were those of Maxwell’s victims, and his house was
+burned down. The Consul, Mr. Gibson, when about
+to start for Pitows to confront Dr. Maxwell with his
+accusers, got information of three ambuscades prepared
+to intercept him on the road.</p>
+
+<p>Other outrages occurred and native Christians met
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span>with inhuman persecution. The Chinese authorities
+evaded our claims for redress; at one moment pretending
+to concede, at the next withdrawing their promises.
+The Tontai of Amoy was ordered from Peking, to
+proceed to Formosa and settle all existing difficulties;
+but he coolly informed Her Majesty’s Consul on his
+arrival that they appeared to him of so little importance,
+he was determined to return to Amoy without
+any practical investigation into the real state of
+affairs. Mr. Gibson saw that some material guarantee
+was necessary for the fulfilment of his claims, and requested
+Lieutenant Gurdon of the <span class='ships'>Algerine</span> to occupy
+Amping and the Fort of Zelandia, which forts constituted
+the key to the capital of Formosa, Tai-wan-foo,
+from which they are distant some 3000 yards.</p>
+
+<p>The Tontai, having in the first instance agreed that
+Amping should be held as a guarantee, appears now
+to have ordered it to be put into a state of defence.
+Lieutenant Gurdon observed this and gave notice to
+the inhabitants of his intention. He then opened
+fire at about 2000 yards from the pivot gun of
+<span class='ships'>Algerine</span>. Finding, however, that he was unable to
+prevent the construction of earthworks—forty-one
+guns were already in position—he determined to
+surprise the camp at night. At 10.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Gurdon left
+the <span class='ships'>Algerine</span> in his gig, accompanied by the cutter,
+containing two officers and twenty-three men. He
+landed on the beach in a heavy surf about two miles
+below the town. The gig, in spite of precaution, was
+swamped.</p>
+
+<p>Having formed on the beach, he threw out
+skirmishers and advanced with caution, taking advantage
+of every inequality of ground. When within
+eight hundred yards, he observed Chinese moving about
+the fortifications, and the moon shining brightly, he
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>made his men lie down under the cover of some
+rising ground until 2 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, when he made a rush, and
+was in the heart of the town before he was discovered.
+Gurdon got hold of a guide and at once proceeded
+to the Heptar’s Yamun, the door of which he burst
+in before he could get at the garrison, which consisted
+of about fifty men. They barricaded the door of
+an inner apartment, extinguished the lights, and,
+refusing to surrender, were fired on, when some eight
+were killed.</p>
+
+<p>It was, of course, not the time for Gurdon,
+with his handful of men, to show the slightest
+hesitation. The remainder of the Chinese soldiers
+broke down a door in their rear and escaped. It
+was daylight before Gurdon had time to take
+possession of Fort Zelandia and station his men,
+when the enemy were observed in force coming up
+from Tai-wan-foo, led by a mandarin carrying a
+yellow flag. They were received with such a deadly
+fire from the unerring Snider that in less than five
+minutes the mandarin’s men broke and fled, leaving
+our little force in possession. The loss of the Chinese
+during this little engagement was twenty-one killed
+and thirty-six wounded, while the mandarin, unable
+to face the disgrace, returned to his quarters and
+committed suicide.</p>
+
+<p>Gurdon belonged to Norfolk. He sent me some
+of his captured brass guns.</p>
+
+<p>The result of this action was the complete submission
+of the Tontai. The attempted monopoly of the
+camphor trade was broken down. The ringleaders
+in the outrage against Dr. Maxwell were punished
+by decapitation; pecuniary compensation was made
+to Ellis and Company for their losses, and a guarantee
+given for future good behaviour. However, there
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span>was dissatisfaction at Peking. The Prince of Kung
+pretended to be much annoyed at the manner in
+which this affair had been settled. Gibson got into
+a row with our Minister for having called upon
+Gurdon to proceed to such active measures, and he
+was in danger of being superseded. And yet
+negotiations had been going on for five months,
+during which time the Tontais had set their own
+Government, our Consuls, and all Treaty rights at
+defiance. I, too, had been preparing, at the request
+of our Minister, a powerful force that would have
+captured the Formosan capital, in spite of its garrison
+of 10,000 men, when the gallant Gurdon cut the
+Gordian knot and spoilt my “pidgin.”</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>There came in due time wiggings from the
+Foreign Office and the Admiralty, in spite of the
+success of the operations. Gurdon and I had the
+distinction of being traduced in the House of
+Commons. Subsequently, on comparing notes with
+our Ambassador at Peking, who had also been found
+fault with, we agreed how utterly ignorant our
+authorities at home were of the manners and customs
+of the Chinese, and have they not been so even since
+the time we are discussing? Wars have already
+occurred on far less provocation.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCV">
+    CHAPTER XCV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Command in China</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1868.
+Nov.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>At the same time we heard of the fresh complications
+in China, the mail brought news of the loss of the
+<span class='ships'>Rattler</span> on September 24, in Shakotan Bay. My
+grief was great. Poor <span class='ships'>Rattler</span>; unlucky nephew!
+In the midst of their trouble the French sloop
+<span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>, with the ever kind Captain du Petit
+Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Saigon.
+Nov.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There
+was no difficulty in finding a pilot off Cape St.
+James. We proceeded at once up the river to
+Saigon. On landing, was received by the French
+officials with every demonstration of respect. The
+Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays, and a
+mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House,
+where apartments for self and staff were ready.
+Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor and
+Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He
+had served in the French Naval Brigade in the
+Crimea; but we were on different Attacks, and did not
+meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F.
+Edmond de Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his
+mother was English, and he spoke our language
+fluently.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Saigon.</div>
+
+<p>Saigon appears to have been well selected as a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span>dockyard and arsenal; situated 25 miles up a river
+navigable for line-of-battle ships, it might be rendered
+invulnerable in these days of infernal machines: a
+legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except
+against an aggressor. In the arsenal were all the
+means of building ships-of-war. Several old line-of-battle
+lay in the river, besides an immense troopship,
+equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic
+and active. By means of convict labour, which they
+obtain from Bourbon, they carry on roads and raise
+buildings.</p>
+
+<p>The site for a magnificent city, with squares
+and palaces, is marked out; but the great thing
+wanted is population, which, in spite of the assurances
+of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by
+the natives, is now fast disappearing. In the
+temporary banquetting room, where I was entertained,
+were pictures of the Emperor and Empress,
+to which was added that of Isabella of Spain.
+Saddle horses were placed at our disposal. Visited a
+large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian
+mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a
+weedy-looking lot! There was a zealous and enterprising
+naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne, Directeur
+du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work
+unassisted.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that one road extended some 900
+miles in a northerly direction, which must bring
+them not far from our Burmese possessions. We
+heard from the officers of the gunboats who make
+excursions up the river that they frequently get shots
+at elephants and that tigers are numerous. The
+sport may be good, but I should think the climate
+was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of
+curios was to be obtained, with the exception of small
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span>boxes and stands inlaid with mother-o’-pearl, in the
+making of which the natives seem to excel.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back
+as I had arrived. When taking leave of Admiral
+Ohier on shore, I requested him not to return my
+visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for
+that he paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed
+without giving me an opportunity of waiting on him.
+I was off the following morning for Singapore, where
+we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before
+paying a long promised visit to Siam.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Bankok,
+Nov.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General,
+Colonel Knox, kindly offered me the hospitality
+of the Consulate. W. H. Read was already
+there, having come up at my request to settle some
+consular matters which required attention. The young
+King Khoulalonkorn had but recently succeeded his
+father, whose obsequies were proceeding.</p>
+
+<p>In one of the principal temples, the remains of
+His Majesty were placed in a huge silver urn, from
+which a ribbon passed through the hands of numerous
+priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for
+the repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue
+for a year, after which all that is left of the
+departed is consigned to the flames. Nothing could
+exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent
+and good-looking youth. Banquets and
+entertainments were the order of the day, and there
+was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples,
+palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque
+scenery.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short
+visit, and arrived at Singapore on the 27th.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed and steamed to the westward.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Penang Roads.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin
+and little May, who were quickly embarked.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command,
+with wife and kids on board, my kind old
+friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside
+Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it
+was scarcely discovered when in the <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>. I recommended
+it to a shifting Board of Admiralty as
+the fittest coaling station in the Far East.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dec. 19.
+Labuan.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was
+the first on board; he had a grievance. The officer
+in command of a gunboat had declined to fire a
+royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so,
+on Mr. Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained
+that owing to accidents no man-of-war
+mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a
+salute. However, I was told that the zealous
+Governor had dug up some old buried guns, and
+had his salute fired, not quite to regular time.</p>
+
+<p>Vast improvements had been made since our last
+visit. Mr. Hugh Low, the Secretary, had married his
+daughter to the Governor. Low was a botanist, and
+had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo.
+Dr. Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government
+appointment. De Crespigny had left the navy
+and become a Resident. We remained till the 23rd.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received
+as before in <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, and again in the <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>. It
+has altered little in the past five-and-twenty years,
+except to become more like a town on the Riviera
+than those one finds in the East under our own flag.
+There are plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome
+boulevard, cafés, and bands playing.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we
+began to experience what it was to face the north-east
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span>monsoon. All my party were prostrate. <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>
+was so sudden in her movements that cots were given
+up and beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a
+burning fever—caught, we supposed, at Labuan—patient
+and good, calling only for drink, but unable
+to bear clothing.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hong
+Kong,
+Jan.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel
+Garnier started to ask Dr. Hill to come from the
+<span class='ships'>Melville</span>, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady
+Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our
+reception at Government House, where we went on
+arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in
+attendance. After consultations, they tried to
+persuade us that Colin would pull through. On
+service, wives and children ought to remain at
+home!</p>
+
+<p>However, the boy soon mended.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have been more fortunate than the
+quarters into which we had been so kindly received.
+There was scarcely a person in Hong Kong who did
+not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better
+than any nurse. Our children were much at the
+Bertrand’s, where their charming little daughter,
+Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no
+business in a sailor’s log!</p>
+
+<p>Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the
+true Irish hospitality with which we were entertained
+I should have fancied we were over-staying our
+welcome. The flagship <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> did not put in an
+appearance until the 21st. She had then to make
+good defects, and leave was due to the crew.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>We started, children and all, by the 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> steamer
+to pay a visit to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun
+in Canton. Nothing could be prettier than the
+passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span>we came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to
+relate of bygone days. There, too, to the northward,
+was the fort I, with a small squadron, in 1857, was
+instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by
+the Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke
+the cap and sword which the Chinese Governor
+threw away that he might not be recognized. After a
+short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of
+Canton, where Robertson waited with chairs to receive
+us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a few days previously
+from the north, came with us in the steamer, and was
+also put up by Robertson.</p>
+
+<p>Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show
+all there was. But we had arranged to return
+in a day or two, and our time would not allow
+of our seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon
+wished. We, however, saw one or two joss-houses,
+only curious when the meaning of the various
+grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained.
+The City of the Dead was the most extraordinary.
+It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch, as if
+it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all
+those who can afford it deposit their dead until some
+auspicious day for the funeral occurs, which may not
+be for years. Others who, having come from some
+distant province to hold office under Government,
+deposit their dead relatives in these clean and snug
+lodgings until they have made their fortunes, or are
+turned out, as the case may be.</p>
+
+<p>The city is composed of one-storied houses, the
+streets straight and painfully quiet; some of the
+houses contained one, but the others two or three
+coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks
+burning in most, with a change of raiment and other
+little comforts the departed might require, and as
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span>there were a few priests about, I daresay the “comforts”
+were appreciated.</p>
+
+<p>Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at
+the Consul’s Yamun, I was obliged to leave the sightseers
+and had not time to partake of an excellent
+luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of
+followers, and had only donned my uniform in time
+to enter the room as the Consul received him with a
+salute of three guns.</p>
+
+<p>Our interview was the same as on a previous
+occasion, only now, as established old friends, we
+were much more cordial. The children amused
+themselves in the small, walled park attached to the
+Yamun, but a change of weather and a cutting N.E.
+wind coming on, our experienced friend the Archdeacon
+cautioned us to be careful.</p>
+
+<p>Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return
+found a despatch from the Commodore detailing
+an outrage at Swatow, in which some well-known,
+ill-disposed villagers had fired into the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer’s</span>
+boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and
+the Commodore, pending further instructions, was
+preparing to punish the offenders.</p>
+
+<p>It was fortunate my being in Canton with the
+Consul, as it enabled us at once to communicate
+with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his jurisdiction.
+The boats of the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span>, when away exercising
+up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the
+inhabitants of the semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi.</p>
+
+<p>The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate
+with the headman of the village, but as he could
+get no one to conduct him to his house, he seized a
+well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had
+witnessed the outrage, that he might take him before
+the Consul at Swatow to be examined.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span></p>
+
+<p>Without further provocation the villagers opened
+fire on the <span class='ships'>Cockchafer’s</span> boats, who, finding themselves
+opposed to some six hundred Chinese, made a running
+fight of it, as they retreated down the river, killing
+and wounding several of their assailants, returning
+with the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously,
+and eight others, in a less degree, wounded.</p>
+
+<p>I at once placed myself in communication with
+the Viceroy of the two Kwang provinces. That part
+of the department, Quang Tung, lying to the northward
+and eastward of Canton had long resisted the
+Imperial Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they
+themselves levied blackmail on traders passing from
+Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five
+to six thousand troops was gradually making its
+way to Chow-Chow-Fou, bringing the villages under
+subjection as it marched.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and
+Po-leng had on one occasion roasted alive the mandarin
+who had been sent to govern them. They placed
+another mandarin between two planks and sawed him
+in halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for
+the army to advance, and appointed two Commissioners,
+with a force and a couple of gunboats, to
+co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of
+the offending villages. The Commodore was ordered
+to take command of the <span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, <span class='ships'>Perseus</span>, <span class='ships'>Leven</span>,
+<span class='ships'>Bouncer</span>, and <span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span>, together with a party of
+seamen and marines from the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</div>
+
+<p>These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded
+to Swatow, with orders to make preparations,
+but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and Chinese
+forces. I, intending to follow in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, returned
+to Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on
+board her, and left same afternoon. Whether the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span>Commodore thought that I should personally supersede
+him in the command, I do not know. When
+I arrived at Swatow on the 31st, I found he had
+neglected the latter part of his orders, and the
+morning after his arrival, without waiting for the
+Viceroy’s Commissioners, proceeded to land his
+marines and march up the banks to protect the
+boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led
+to the offending villages.</p>
+
+<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> (28th January) an advance was made
+on the village of Tang-Tau, which, together with
+that of Po-leng, had assisted the villages of Ou-teng-foi
+in their attack. These three villages offered more
+or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first
+to open fire, and showed a bold front, but the
+Sneiders soon doubled up those who did not take the
+earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men advanced.
+Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was
+spared, as the inhabitants made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi,
+which was barricaded, had their defences
+destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was
+difficult to ascertain the amount of loss of the
+villagers, as they were smart in carrying off their
+killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking
+they were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and
+returned to his ships. No looting of any sort was
+allowed, although geese and poultry were in plenty.</p>
+
+<p>Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being
+Lieutenant Herbert Gye, whose face and hands were
+badly burned by an explosion of gunpowder lying
+loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to
+set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed
+before and behind by two Chinamen who rushed on
+him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was wounded in
+the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span>armed with a spear and intended for greater mischief.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages
+sent in their submission in the following terms, translated
+from the original:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p><em>Humble Petition</em>—</p>
+
+<p>The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your
+great country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened,
+and, racing away, foolishly excited our people to attack
+them, for which the great army has entered our villages and
+punished us.</p>
+
+<p>We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg,
+undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that
+men and women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly
+for coming generations under your favour.</p>
+
+<p>Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised
+that the force I was about to send from Hong Kong
+should wait to co-operate with his and his Commissioners,
+was greatly disappointed, and I expect our
+Minister at Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be
+the same.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>—Weighed, and stood out of river
+Canton.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min,
+and anchored off Pagoda.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCVI">
+    CHAPTER XCVI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The Northern Ports</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Shanghai,
+Feb.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Salamis</span> arrived at Shanghai; at anchor off naval yard.
+When on a visit to Sir Rutherford Alcock at Peking,
+in September 1867, he, having been applied to by
+the merchants at Chin-kiang on the subject of opening
+the Poyang Lake to steam navigation, expressed
+a wish that, if an opportunity offered, I should visit
+and report on its capabilities. The subject of the
+new treaty and fresh ports to be opened having been
+discussed by the Chamber of Commerce here, and
+affairs either in Japan or China not requiring my immediate
+presence, I decided on gratifying a long-cherished
+wish of ascending the Yang-tse-kiang as far
+as practicable in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Swinhoe, our late Consul at Taiwan, Formosa,
+a scholar, linguist, and naturalist, has been selected by
+Sir Rutherford to visit and report on such ports as
+are most desirable for trade; particularly near that
+part of the Great River, the Poyang Lake, and above
+Hankow, even as far as the province of Sechuen. In
+compliance with the Minister’s request, the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>
+gun-boat waits at Hankow to convey Mr. Swinhoe
+whither he will.</p>
+
+<p>The Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, more particularly
+interested in the opening of new treaty ports,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span>has selected Mr. Michi, an enterprising traveller,
+and well acquainted with the value of teas and silks,
+to proceed, at their request, with Mr. Swinhoe.
+Another gentleman, Mr. Francis, accompanies them.
+The Chamber of Commerce at Shanghai having also
+got the firm of Jardine and Company to lend their
+small steam-vessel, she will be attached to the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>,
+with such surveying officers as Brooker can dispatch
+from the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>. Although they will hardly
+have time to complete a survey of the river above
+Hankow, they will be able to verify that of Captain
+Blakiston. On Monday, February 8, we left the
+hospitable roof of Mr. Lavers, of the firm of Gilman
+and Co., and started in the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+March.</div>
+
+<p>The space between Shanghai and Hankow is now
+well-beaten ground, owing to the Company’s steamers,
+which start both ways every two or three days according
+to the freights they ship, carrying a large number
+of passengers, the majority of whom are Chinese.
+The chief interest to me is that twenty-seven years
+ago, when in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, we formed one of a large fleet
+of upwards of seventy men-of-war and transports, all
+of which succeeded in getting up without the use of
+steam as far as Nankin, which brought about peace
+and the signing of the treaty which bore that name.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>At sunset on Tuesday the 9th we came to off
+Chin-kiang, promising to visit Silver Island on our
+return. On the following morning we found that
+Mr. Allen, the Vice-Consul, and several other gentlemen,
+among whom was a son of my old friend
+Carnie of former days at Singapore, hearing of my
+weakness that way, had prepared a shooting excursion
+to Deer Island, some six miles up the river.</p>
+
+<p>As they could easily return with the current, we
+took the whole party on board the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, and before
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span>noon proceeded up the river and anchored off the island,
+a long flat of about seven miles by four, and, except
+at the time when we arrived, covered with long and
+strong reeds, which the natives were cutting for
+thatch or fuel, making at same time temporary, but
+not uncomfortable, huts to live in. There was no
+lack of game or sportsmen, and from the quantity of
+firing the bag ought to have been a large one: seven
+deer, and a few varieties of duck, teal, and quail, was
+the result. The deer were what are called “hog,”
+with a coarse rough hair and a peculiar tusk protruding,
+boar fashion, from the jaw. We had an agreeable
+day and dined together in the wardroom,
+the Chin-kiang party not leaving until late.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nankin,
+Mar.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at daylight, and came to off Nankin,
+but not in time to perform an excursion to the Ming
+Tombs; people wishing to visit these comfortably
+should write beforehand and have ponies or chairs
+ready. We mounted the city wall on the highest point
+of the hill to the eastward, the view from whence gives
+a good idea of the vast extent of water and of the
+desolation inside. Fresh-looking ship guns marked
+U.S.R.M., which I read “United States Republic
+Marine,” were mounted and brought to bear on the
+only anchorage fit for ships of any size; they were
+about 42-pounders, of a pattern now obsolete, and had
+evidently been placed since the visit of the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Having been on the top of the great Porcelain
+Tower when it stood prominent in its magnificence,
+I did not care to go now, as travellers do, to seek
+for bricks among its ruins.</p>
+
+<p>I have a printed copy of a letter addressed
+by the Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce
+to W. H. Medhurst, Esq., in reply to an application
+from our Minister at Peking, in which they
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span>enumerate the different ports they think desirable
+should be opened. Among them is Wu-hu.
+Wu-hu is situated about two miles above the
+mouth of a tributary stream, on the right bank
+of the Yang-tse, about sixty miles above Nankin.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>We anchored off this for a couple of hours on the
+afternoon of the 12th, when I proceeded up the creek
+with Swinhoe, Dob Crosbie, and the pilot, and landed
+near the walled town. The whole right bank, and part
+of the left, had trading junks thickly stowed side by side
+with ends on to the shore, which gave proof of a vast
+amount of commerce; while, judging from the
+buildings in progress, both city and suburbs were
+gradually recovering from the effects of the late Civil
+War.</p>
+
+<p>It is curious to note that early travellers in China
+have described the country as either a “vast plain” or
+“an enormous fertile valley.” More variation of
+surface, perhaps, does not appear in any country,
+and where we should be most inclined to look for
+such features, namely on its great artery, it is
+diversified enough to please the most exacting of
+tourists.</p>
+
+<p>Commencing at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang,
+there is naturally a considerable extent of flat alluvial
+land, the delta of the river, where once, no doubt the
+ocean held its sway. But soon we come to hills
+and high lands, and at Chin-kiang the eye is delighted
+with the steep and rugged cliffs. About Nankin the
+country is prettily broken into ridges and hills, and
+before reaching far above this, mountains shut in the
+river on either side.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>On the afternoon of the 13th we passed close to
+Nankin (pronounced and spelt Bankin by our civil
+and communicative pilot, with a strong nasal twang),
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span>such as might be found in the United States, and
+to which I have ceased to object. He had often
+passed up here during the wars in 1861, in a vessel
+that was always ready to supply with “munitions”
+the side that could pay best.</p>
+
+<p>He pointed out the fort close to the river bank on
+the east side of the Pagoda, once in possession of the
+Imperialists, while the rebels held the city, the nearest
+wall of which was not a quarter of a mile distant.
+There were also the stern posts to which two
+rebel chiefs had been chained until released by death.
+The city subsequently surrendered, when every living
+soul was put to death, and for weeks after, decapitated
+bodies infested the river for miles. It was on passing
+these batteries that Lord Elgin was fired at, on which
+occasion young Birch, who had been one of my
+youngsters in the <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, lost an arm.</p>
+
+<p>Our pilot not being quite as much at home as
+those who work the trading steamers, we always came
+to in the evening; besides, our hurry was not such as
+to prevent one seeing what was to be seen during
+daylight.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Weighing on 14th, by a little after 11 o’clock we
+came up with one of the most picturesque objects on the
+river, a rock rising abruptly, called the “Little Orphan”;
+but the day was dull and a mist hung over the adjacent
+country: the right thing would have been to ascend a
+small pagoda on the top and enjoy a splendid view.
+Shortly afterwards we saw the Orphan Rock in the
+entrance of the Poyang Lake, standing in bold relief,
+the guardian of the passage. On the left of the entrance
+is Hu-kau, a temple within a high picturesque wall,
+where resides a Chinese Admiral with his war junks.</p>
+
+<p>The legend of the Orphan Rock, told us by the pilot,
+is, that in bygone ages a Chinaman, with his wife and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span>two children, was crossing the river, when his boat was
+upset in a storm. The parents at once sank, but a
+kind turtle rising to the surface, took the children on his
+back, and instead of making for the shore, appears to
+have swum up stream, when after a while one of the
+children slipped off and was drowned, when there
+arose the rock now called “The Little Orphan.”
+The turtle then made for the Poyang Lake with his
+second charge, but before he reached the shoal the
+other child fell off at the spot where the rock rose out
+of the water called “The Great Orphan.” The
+benevolent turtle then died too, and his broken heart
+formed a huge rock not far from the resting-place of
+the lost child.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday.</div>
+
+<p>We anchored off Chin-kiang as the bell was tolling
+for afternoon service. Our appearance had
+caused the clergyman to delay the service twenty
+minutes, but as we were not informed, his kind intention
+was lost on us. This was one of the open
+ports selected on the river. Like most of the towns on
+the southern bank of the Yang-tse, it had been in the
+hands of the rebels, the effects of whose ravages
+were apparent. It is a neat little settlement, with
+European-looking houses, a Bund in front, and the
+handsome range of Lien-Shan mountains for a background.
+The merchants here had long been aware
+of the advantages to trade that would accrue by the
+opening of a port or ports on the Poyang Lakes,
+with permission to ply steamers either as traders or
+tugs. As yet the Chinese authorities, blind to their
+advantage, have been opposed to the use of steam in
+the inner waters.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>With the assistance of the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, a small steamboat
+of about forty tons, kindly lent us by Jardine
+Mathieson’s firm at Shanghai, it was my intention
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>to have explored this lake, and I determined to
+wait her arrival. She was to have followed us
+in tow of one of the American steamers that run
+between Hankow and Shanghai. This proposed
+expedition caused no small sensation in the settlement.
+Those who could not get stowed away on
+board the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, got ready their house-boats; two
+started for the scene of action at once, as they knew
+their craft were of too frail a construction to stand a
+tug of a greater rate than three knots per hour.</p>
+
+<p>While detained waiting for the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, several shooting
+parties went forth, but with small results; those
+who went prepared only for snipe fell in with duck,
+and <i lang='la'>vice versa</i>. However, a little earlier in the
+season, game of all sorts must be plentiful. Pheasants,
+ducks, teal, and the hog deer were to be purchased.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>The steamer from Shanghai arrived on the 17th,
+but without the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, owing to a defect in her
+machinery. I therefore determined on proceeding
+for Hankow without further delay, promising, if
+possible, to explore the Poyang on my return, when
+we shall have the advantage of several feet rise of
+water.</p>
+
+<p>4.15 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>—Slipped from buoy to run up as far as
+we could before dark, so as to ensure our reaching
+Hankow on the following day.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed at five. We soon came to the most
+beautiful scenery we had yet met with. High hills
+rising immediately from the bank, with woods, a great
+improvement on the shrubs we had hitherto passed.
+The Spit Rock is a peculiar feature in a narrow
+pass. The high-water line was distinctly marked on
+the rocks some twenty feet above where we were.
+Among the curious things we met were immense
+timber rafts, each with its street of wooden houses.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span>We came to off Hankow. Found <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> and a
+Russian gunboat, an old acquaintance of the Gulf of
+Tartary.</p>
+
+<p>The good people of Hankow are noted for their
+hospitality, and before leaving Shanghai, quarters
+were offered us in both the houses of Jardine and
+Mathieson, and Gilman and Co. We had agreed
+with Mr. Lavers to go to whichever house we should
+inconvenience the least, and they were to settle it
+between them. We were claimed by Mr. and Mrs.
+Ramsay, old friends of Mr. Gilman. A good fellow,
+Mr. Beveridge of Jardine’s house, expressed great disappointment
+at our not going to him, but most kindly
+took instead the whole of my staff, including Dob.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hankow.</div>
+
+<p>Hankow is only separated from Wu-chang and
+Han-yang by the Han and Yang-tse rivers. The
+surrounding country is flat, and as I could not look
+with commercial eyes on the adjacent cities, with their
+numerous junks that lined the shore, especially at the
+junction of the Han, where they seemed to form a
+deadlock, I am afraid I was a little disappointed
+with the celestial emporium. On shore, and along
+the walls, the high-water mark was clearly defined;
+about every three or four years the country is inundated,
+without, however, affecting the health of the
+place. Our countrywomen, and particularly the
+children, looked fresh and blooming.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCVII">
+    CHAPTER XCVII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Memories of Gordon</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Hankow,
+Mar. 19</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Caine, the Consul, and son of my old friend of
+former China days, having given notice of my intention
+the day previous, at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we crossed the
+river to Wu-chang, that I might pay my respects to
+the Viceroy. Besides the Consul and myself our
+party consisted of Swinhoe, Mr. Davenport, the
+consular interpreter, and Keppel Garnier, Flag Lieutenant.
+The Viceroy was Li Hung Chang, who had
+fought for eighteen years against the Tai-peng rebels
+and was considered the first general in the Imperialist
+Army.</p>
+
+<p>Gordon had held a command as brigadier-general
+under him, and Li it was who so treacherously put
+to death Lar Wang and nine of the rebel chiefs at
+the surrender of Soo-chow, on 7th December 1863,
+although Gordon had pledged himself for their safety.
+The only time that Gordon was known to carry
+arms were the two days after the execution of the
+Wangs, when, had he fallen in with Li, there would
+have been two holes in Li’s yellow waistcoat!</p>
+
+<p>Besides my curiosity to see this celebrated
+scoundrel, I wanted the loan of a most convenient
+little steamer, the <span class='ships'>Hyson</span>, now lying in the river,
+which had performed such wonderful feats in co-operation
+with Gordon during the war.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span></p>
+
+<p>We landed about a quarter of a mile below a
+pagoda, just built or renovated, on the point where
+the city wall touches the river. Chairs, with the
+official number of bearers, were found ready, proceeded
+at once inside the city walls to the Viceroy’s
+Yamun. There was the usual rush of guards and
+deliberation before the outer gates were opened,
+although we were only punctual to our time.</p>
+
+<p>There is a regular etiquette on all ceremonial visits
+as to how far you may advance in your chair towards
+the first door of the three apartments, at which you
+are met by the person you visit.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Wu-chang.</div>
+
+<p>I received the honour due to the highest rank,
+and was placed on a raised platform on the left of the
+Viceroy Li. Tea was ready, and another table with
+sweetmeats—the usual compliments of asking your
+age, health, and the balance of your family.</p>
+
+<p>Before I proceeded to announce my intention of
+proceeding up the river, His Excellency hoped I
+would not attempt to do so, urging that the natives
+were troublesome and unaccustomed to foreigners,
+and he could not be responsible for them. I replied
+that I had no fear with the passport of so great a
+man. To this he made objections and excuses. We
+then gathered round the sweetmeats and replied to
+numerous questions about armament and guns, all
+showing a warlike tendency.</p>
+
+<p>Viceroy Li is a tall, hard-looking man, and I
+should think quite capable of ridding himself and
+his country of any number of rebel kings, whether a
+British officer had become security or not. He
+seemed to take a great fancy to my Bath Star, and
+said he should recommend me to the Emperor for
+the distinguished order of the Imperial Dragon.</p>
+
+<p>Our interview lasted for over an hour.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span></p>
+
+<p>We took our departure for the residence of the
+Reverend Mr. John, one of the greatest travellers
+in China, at whose house we found a real English
+luncheon. He had a pretty, lively little daughter
+and a wife who shared his labours. Mr. John afterwards
+accompanied us to the curio-shops, which were
+poorly provided and inferior to those in Hankow.
+He gave us much valuable information from the
+experience he had gained in the Upper Yang-tse,
+and seemed to think the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> would have little
+difficulty in getting up to I-Chang, about 15 miles
+below the first rapids.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Among those we visited was the Russian Consul,
+who concocted a delicious beverage out of some rare
+green tea; so scarce that in a twelvemonth he could
+seldom succeed in getting more than 120 lbs., and
+that went to Russia for the Emperor’s use. There
+are several Russian merchants who have been located
+for years in the interior cities carrying on an extensive
+trade in furs, as well as silks and tea.</p>
+
+<p>Russians appear to have a greater facility in acquiring
+languages than other nations. In spite of
+the rain, cold, and damp, and anything but the best
+of meat, certainly the worst of cooking, we enjoyed
+ourselves.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Hankow,
+Mar.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p><i>Sunday.</i>—We were astonished at the appearance,
+before tiffin, of our mail from England, four days
+before the expected time. Two Admirals dead, and
+I top of list of Vice; <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> ordered home.</p>
+
+<p>There is a neat little church in course of construction.
+Clergyman a Mr. MacClatchy; his wife a
+sister of Sir Harry Parkes.</p>
+
+<p>Of course there was a race-course, an agreeable
+and innocent amusement, our host being among
+the light weights and about the best rider. The old
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span>course was outside the city walls, on a flat some 12
+miles in extent with scarcely a tree to be seen. In
+winter, I am told, the flat is covered with bustards,
+geese, and hares.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_248'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_248.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>May and Webb.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The vessel that brought the mail did not bring
+the long-expected
+<span class='ships'>Faust</span>, and our departure
+was deferred.
+The good Doctor
+Gregory kindly volunteering
+to look
+after my belongings,
+we left them, with
+the worthy Webb
+to help: it was not
+so bad an arrangement.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>At 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> the
+<span class='ships'>Fusiama</span> steamer
+put in an appearance,
+with the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>
+in tow. She was
+quickly in readiness
+to proceed, but Risk
+had too much work
+to get through, so
+the early morning
+was fixed for our
+next start. <i lang='fr'>En route</i>
+to take leave of the children, found them with Webb
+in sad distress over a string of rats secured by wire
+to a six-foot stick. With the <span class='ships'>Faust</span> came up two
+surveying officers, Dawson from <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, and Palmer,
+who had been serving in the <span class='ships'>Insolent</span> at Chefoo.
+We managed to get two Chinese pilots, who knew
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span>something of the river as far as Yoh-chow, at the
+entrance of the Tung-ting Lake. We had also our
+Shanghai pilot, Mr. Pendleton, an intelligent man, experienced
+in river navigation. With all this staff,
+and the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> some days ahead to look out
+for difficulties, the knowing ones were betting that
+I should never reach I-Chang. There is a good and
+well-conducted club at Hankow.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we had taken leave of the children and
+friends; a few minutes after we were on our way to
+the interior of the Celestial Empire—<span class='ships'>Faust</span>, and a
+native boat hired by Messrs. Francis and Michi to
+sleep in, in tow. Cannot say much for the interesting
+scenery, for though the whole country is scarcely
+raised above the level of the river from July to
+October, at the present time we were twenty feet
+below. Except where there was a village we were
+steaming between mud walls, on the top of which a
+few natives, or a boy on a buffalo with the sky for a
+background, appeared, to break the monotony. When
+I say between mud walls, the river was seldom less
+than half a mile wide. We anchored at sunset, having
+had much bother with the hired native boat. These
+craft are loosely put together, and do not stand
+towing at any speed. This one looked like a lashed-up
+hammock. The woman on board with a child in her
+arms roared to be released, declaring the boat was
+filling and calling to her countrymen on the banks to
+come to her rescue; but when Messrs Michi and
+Francis went on board the boat was found to be all
+right, no attention was paid to her, while she continued
+to roar and wipe her tears with the arm of her
+child, while her crew joined in chorus: one of them,
+to prove his distress, lay on his back kicking the air
+with his nailed boots.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Tung-ting
+Lake,
+Mar.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>At about 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> we had struck off from the
+Yang-tse to go down the branch that leads to the
+Tung-ting Lake, and five miles farther came to off
+Yo-chow, situated at the outlet. A high wall hid
+from our view the city, which appears to have been
+built on a bluff; for healthiness it must be as well,
+or better, than any of the towns we had passed.
+Yo-chow is the great port for the wealthy province of
+Hainan, and I should imagine well adapted for one of
+the Treaty Ports, but, opening it would shut up
+Hankow, where sufficient money has already been
+expended.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yo-chow.</div>
+
+<p>There was a good assortment of trading junks;
+two customs Government boats were showily decorated,
+the Captain was entertaining a tea party. Our
+surveying officers landed to take sights for chronometers
+and soon collected a crowd, some of whom,
+when the officers had picked up their instruments
+and turned their backs to go down to the boat, began
+hooting and throwing stones, a number of specimens
+of which were brought on board; some of them
+quite big enough to have knocked a man off his
+thwart.</p>
+
+<p>Observing what was going on, I ordered a blank
+gun to be fired to remind them that we were a vessel-of-war,
+and might pitch something into them that would
+hit harder than stones. I asked Swinhoe, who was
+just shoving off from the ship, to go alongside the
+Government vessel and demand an explanation. The
+Captain, who was at that moment sitting down to
+entertain his guests, said that, seeing the gathering of
+roughs that was taking place, he had despatched a
+messenger to the Prefect, telling him of the outrage
+and recommending his sending down a force to keep
+the peace; informing him that a great British
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>Admiral had arrived with a thousand men, and that
+he would assuredly avenge the insult.</p>
+
+<p>Swinhoe informed this officer he had better go on
+board and explain matters to the Admiral. The
+customs official, who had some misgivings as to the
+propriety of trusting himself within the power of an
+incensed British Admiral, hesitated. He held many
+consultations with his guests, and they all appeared
+to think he ran great risk; but on Swinhoe assuring
+him that he could not answer for the consequences
+if he did not go and explain, at the end of three-quarters
+of an hour he figged himself up with another
+cup of tea, and, taking his pink-buttoned hat,
+with its hanging feather, like a fox’s brush, he
+resigned himself to his fate, took leave of his
+fat friends and descended with Swinhoe into the
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> boat.</p>
+
+<p>Seeing him coming, I had only just time to put
+on uniform and a <em>war</em> expression, when he was
+ushered on board.</p>
+
+<p>After the usual “chin chin,” we were seated opposite
+one another, when he broke out in a nervous,
+but loud voice to explain matters. I informed him
+that it was a very serious offence; that by treaty a
+man-of-war was allowed to go to any part of China
+and have protection; that the affair at Swatow commenced
+in the same way by some roughs, over whom
+the authorities professed to have no control, throwing
+stones, which ended in my having to destroy three
+large towns, with great loss of life to the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>I told him, in this case, one presumed the Governor
+was not aware we were coming, and I should
+content myself with reporting to Peking the treatment
+my officers, while unarmed, had received. I
+requested the official to inform the Governor that,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span>when I returned, a life would, probably, be taken
+for every stone thrown! He then thanked me for
+my forbearance, and, I imagine, was glad when he
+found himself again with his tea party.</p>
+
+<p>Having landed our Hankow pilots, failed in
+getting others for I-Chang, but as we got our sights,
+there was no further cause for detention. The ill
+feeling by a few roughs was anything but the prevailing
+one among the natives, who swarmed alongside
+to see the ship, bringing vegetables and sweetmeats
+for sale.</p>
+
+<p>Two or three boats full of the fishing cormorants
+amused us amazingly: they had probably been fishing
+in the clear waters of the lake. The birds were
+perched all over the boat, on the gunnels, on the top
+of the covering, or anywhere they could get a footing.
+Although each had a small line to one leg, none of
+them were secured; there were perhaps twenty in
+each boat.</p>
+
+<p>The fish they had caught were of various sorts,
+and, strange to say, the perch, with its prickly fin,
+that a pike will refuse to touch, was not the least
+common among those in the tub; in fact, while
+the man was holding the fish-tub, one of the
+cormorants shoved his beak in and seized a
+large perch. He, in his turn, was seized by the
+throat and made to disgorge. I noticed that the
+man cleverly turned the fish round in the throat of
+the cormorant, so that it came out head foremost.
+It would have puzzled the cormorant to have got rid
+of it otherwise, unless the perch had gone clean
+through him. I was anxious to ascertain how the
+Chinaman prevented the fish passing into the stomach
+of the cormorant, and found that it was by a twist of
+straw tied just tight enough round the lower part of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span>the neck to hold a fish of about 3/4 lb. When we
+started I daresay the roughs went home rejoicing,
+thinking they had driven us away. We weighed
+about an hour before sunset, and turned down
+the stream to where we had diverged from the
+Yang-tse, in which we brought up for the night.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>We weighed at daylight, with Blakiston’s geographical
+flying survey of the river as our only guide.
+This, officers had enlarged to a scale of one inch to the
+mile. We managed between 70 and 80 miles the
+first day, without accident beyond that of fouling a
+junk that persisted in placing itself under our bows,
+turn which way we would. No great damage done:
+a Chinaman was knocked overboard from the junk,
+but he managed to take a plank with him. It is
+so seldom that a Chinaman ever helps a drowning
+man, that we stopped a few minutes until we saw
+him picked up.</p>
+
+<p>There was but little variety in the scenery. One
+remarkable object was the skeleton of a large forest
+tree, noticed also by Blakiston. The only way to
+account for its standing alone in a country where fuel
+is scarce, is that it must have been struck by lightning,
+when it would be considered a thing accursed! If a
+junk is struck by lightning she is deserted. Porpoises
+continued to tumble over, and bottles that floated
+past gave indication that we were not the first
+Europeans up the Yang-tse.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday,
+Mar.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>As if to made up for our good fortune on the
+previous day, we frequently touched the bottom.
+Came to at Shi-show.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>We had gone but a short distance after daylight
+when we suddenly came into shoal water. The
+vessel was quickly stopped and her head put at
+another point without success. This operation was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span>repeated four times, each attempt a little farther
+towards mid-channel. Whether the commander was
+losing patience, and made the last more spitefully
+than before, he certainly managed to fix her as firmly
+as on a rock on a sandbank about mid-channel.
+Every attempt to heave her off after lightening
+failed; but the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span> had orders not to proceed
+farther than where there was a channel for us, and she
+must be some way ahead. A sandbank soon formed
+on the side opposite to the current, on which the
+men walked; but this, our experienced American
+pilot assured us, was a matter of course, on
+grounding on a sandbank in a river with a rapid
+current.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Faust</span> was got ready and preparing for a
+start to Shi-show for junks, by which we might
+lighten ourselves, when the outline of three Europeans,
+with the sky for a background, appeared on the edge
+of the bank which formed our mud wall. They were
+from the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, having heard from a native boat
+of our position. On consultation, it was decided that
+our case was merely one that required patience: the
+current would take its time, and eventually release
+us; we might be twisted about and fresh banks
+appear, but in the end we should be floated off, and
+none the worse.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Shooting parties landed, bringing on board a
+tolerable bag: ducks and teal had not yet taken
+their departure for their summer abode; several
+pheasants, hares, and snipe. We supplied <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>
+with what coal she could stow, while her native pilot
+held out hopes of taking us up to I-Chang.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Mar.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Shortly before 4 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, the rush of the stream
+chain through the hawse-hole, and a tremulous
+motion, informed me that we were off the bank,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span>while the other bower anchor brought us up in the
+channel. It took us the remainder of the day to
+recover our anchors, stream chain, and hawsers. On
+the Sabbath afternoon I invited Risk, my secretary,
+to accompany me in a stroll. My feelings were
+shocked to see him, on landing, produce a gun and
+well-stocked bag of cartridges, while Ponto, a pointer,
+but a still better retriever, soon came on the scent of
+game. Snipe and teal got up in twos and threes, a
+fair proportion falling to Risk’s gun. The temptation
+was too much for me. Borrowing the gun,
+while Risk looked on, in the course of a few
+moments I returned him an empty cartridge bag.
+Fortunately he had a few cartridges left, and was
+rewarded by a brace or two of pheasants on the
+homeward journey. The spring snipe afford splendid
+shooting, even up to May, as they work north to
+their breeding grounds by easy stages. The birds
+are nearly double the ordinary size, the result, I
+presume, of good feeding in the pâdi-fields. Bags of
+even fifty couple a gun await a good shot.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCVIII">
+    CHAPTER XCVIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Yang-tse-kiang Trip</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+April 1.</div>
+
+<p>Pilot on board; we were ready for a further start
+up the river, but found I had been imposed on. The
+pilot had agreed to take us as far as Shi-show, but
+had not stated when he could take us on to I-Chang.
+As time was the only thing of which I had none to
+spare, I-Chang had to be given up. In September
+and October, I believe the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> might be brought
+up as far as the first rapids. Swinhoe, the two surveying
+officers, Dawson and Palmer, and the two
+representatives of the Chamber of Commerce at
+Shanghai, had to be transferred to the <span class='ships'>Faust</span> and
+<span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, and in exchange we received our navigating
+Lieutenant, Taylor. I doubt the Yang-tse
+being navigable except to a peculiar class of
+steamer, adapted to the purpose of ascending the
+rapids above I-Chang; but that need not prevent
+enterprising merchants establishing themselves, as
+the Russians have done for years, in the capital and
+large cities of the rich province of Se-Chuen; and
+they might establish a consul, but it is a question
+whether our relations with China are at present such
+that our consul and traders would feel secure without
+the protection of a gunboat. Regret not being
+able to accompany them farther, but having so
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span>much interesting work before me, ought not to be
+greedy.</p>
+
+<p>Having seen our friends take their departure in
+the <span class='ships'>Faust</span>, we weighed anchor for our return, and
+were drifting down broadside on to the stream
+without room to go ahead, our stern close to the
+bank, which being of mud, I recommended backing
+into. Her head immediately paid off down stream,
+but my advice had been fatal to further rapid
+progress. Although no shock was felt, the rudder’s
+head was twisted and the rudder unmanageable. On
+examination, it was found we had to drift down. I
+did not like to upset the exploring and surveying
+expedition by sending for the <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, but determined
+on sending an officer to Hankow for the <span class='ships'>Zebra</span> to
+come up to Hankow. Nothing could have been
+more unfortunate than this event, or so completely
+adapted to upset the arrangements I had made
+during the short time I was likely to remain on the
+station. The hot season approaching, my anxiety
+to get to the northward was great.</p>
+
+<p>My galley, with Mr. Lee, took her departure at
+about 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on a journey of 220 miles to Hankow,
+but with a strong current and the prospects of an
+occasional lift by sailing.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Apr.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Our misfortunes had not come to an end. The
+morning was fine. We got under way with the
+prospects of a good day before us; I had been calculating
+with our American pilot whether we should
+not be close on our galley at Hankow. We were
+coming to a part of the river where there are a succession
+of islands a-wash, and we ought to have
+crossed to the opposite or right bank of the river.
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span> awkward to handle. The only way the
+rudder would act was the wrong one; the American
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span>pilot recommended to warp across. The stocks of both
+bower anchors had broken. In trying to cross, the
+ship grounded on the upper side of the first of the
+above-named islands. Our hope was in the rise of
+the river, while it was possible that the island might
+rise too! We were in a fix. Twelve long days
+were spent getting the ship afloat and to rights. The
+bank shifting occasionally, moved the position.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th the house-boat <span class='ships'>Fanny</span> arrived from
+Hankow. Risk and ourselves went down in her to
+Hankow, arriving on the 18th. The <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> followed
+three days later, when the flag was rehoisted.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th the French man-of-war <span class='ships'>Flamon</span>
+arrived, saluted us, and also, with three guns, the late
+Viceroy’s wife and son on their departure. Weighed
+and arrived at Shanghai on the 27th.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Apr.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Salamis</span> paid off: recommissioned by Commander
+Miller.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Transferred wife and children with Flag-Lieutenant
+to the care of my kind friend Raby in the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>,
+and steamed down the Woosung.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Came to off Chefoo, a pretty port with red cliffs
+and good beaches. Found Lord Charles Scott in the
+<span class='ships'>Icarus</span>. Went on in the afternoon and arrived off
+Taku in time to pick up our old pilot Bandi.
+Crossed the bar of the Peiho with the flood-tide,
+which we carried for 40 miles, making with three
+boilers, for one hour, over 30 miles.</p>
+
+<p>Started again at daylight and got to Tientsin at
+9.30, having fouled but one junk and only touching
+the bottom once.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">May&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Morgan, the Consul, lost no time in making
+arrangements for our start for Peking. Our party
+consisted of Charlie Scott, Miller, Risk, and Dob
+Crosbie, my nephew. We had six boats, covered in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span>and convenient for sleeping, another for cooking,
+one for servants. A Commander-in-Chief could not
+travel without a mandarin, who arranged everything
+and saved much trouble and annoyance. Mandarin
+Chaing Lao (the fifth of the brothers Chaing) arrived
+about 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, and we then spent the next forty-eight
+hours going up the Peiho, carried by the flood
+through the crowds of junks which nearly block up
+the river. The crew were willing enough as long as
+time was allowed them for “chow-chow” and smoke.
+We travelled all night.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">May&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>We might have reached Tung-Chow this evening,
+but as the gates of Peking are closed at 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, we
+enjoyed a quiet night by stopping short of the town.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peking,
+May&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Peking.—We had not arrived many minutes
+before Sir Rutherford’s stud-groom, with two mounted
+orderlies, arrived, bringing letters from His Excellency,
+stating that horses had been sent on over night.
+Carts for our luggage would leave Peking early in the
+morning. “Don Juan,” the same horse I rode during
+our delightful excursion into Mongolia in 1867, was
+sent for me. By 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we were at the British Legation,
+received with the same welcome and hospitality I had
+experienced when last here. Conolly took care of
+Risk; the rest of us were distributed over the Legation.
+I was in my old quarters. The baths were luxuries
+after our journey, for the water of the Peiho is too
+muddy for bathing. Lady Alcock and her daughter
+joined us at the 12 o’clock breakfast: the latter a
+bright, pretty girl, nice to everybody. Those who
+had not been in Peking before were shown the sights
+within reach by Conolly. I had much to discuss
+with Sir Rutherford. We agreed that although our
+late proceedings had not been approved of by the
+Foreign Office, what we did was for the best, and so
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span>far from drawing the country into war, the steps
+taken were the only ones that averted such a misfortune.
+Went to see the Joss that the Sergeant of
+Minister’s Bodyguard has brought for me.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>I sent a photograph of it to General Knollys. It
+came home in the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and is now comfortably
+housed at Sandringham.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>The interpretation of the inscription at the foot of
+the Joss is as follows:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Respectfully made on a lucky day of the tenth month
+of the twenty-eighth year of His Majesty K’-ang-Hsi.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In English dates, October or November 1690.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner-party this evening included Mr. and
+Mrs. Robert Hart. He holds a high position in the
+Imperial Customs, and has control over a larger
+revenue than was ever held by a foreigner in China,
+or perhaps any other country. Hart has the appointing
+of all the heads for collecting the foreign duties,
+as well as of the Harbour Masters and Commanders
+of Revenue cruisers. He chooses the positions and
+raising of lighthouses as well as the placing of lightships.
+Two years ago he applied to me for opinions
+respecting the proper positions of these lights, which
+I directed Commander Brooker to furnish. He took
+great pains and wrote several folios of information on
+the subject.</p>
+
+<p>I was gratified to learn that Hart had, upon
+my recommendation, reserved the appointment of
+Commander of a revenue boat, with £800 a year,
+for my old friend Claude de Crespigny. Dob
+Crosbie, who had kindly undertaken the duties of
+Master of the Horse to the Commander-in-Chief,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>took an early ride with Conolly to the Horse Bazaar
+to look for a quiet pony or two. He got hold of a
+fairish Dun, which is docile enough, I think, to carry
+Colin at Yokohama.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>To forenoon church—a modest little building
+with no appearance of extra ceremonies.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Our traps started by early carts for Tung-Chow.
+The Joss went off on Saturday. Sir Rutherford
+directed that it should be carefully covered with
+matting for fear any <i lang='fr'>dévote</i> Chinaman should take
+umbrage at a god being removed from the Celestial
+Empire. The mandarin who accompanied us was
+anxious to know if I should burn incense before it
+when I got home. I have no doubt he thought I
+was a convert to Buddhism.</p>
+
+<p>The fur merchants had many pretty things, but I
+selected a small piece of the sea-otter skin, sufficient
+to make a muff, and was told it was valued above
+sable. I had also some commissions with the silk-seller,
+and chose some pieces of maize and other
+silk, which, as Mr. Pepys would have said in his
+diary, “did me much pleasure.”</p>
+
+<p>After <i lang='fr'>déjeuner</i> we took leave of our friends, and
+mounted our horses to ride quietly back, much tried
+by hot wind and clouds of dust. Ice, however, was
+plentiful and cheap. Late in the evening our small
+fleet was again under way, increased now by two
+more boats containing the Joss and sundry carved
+stones. We had likewise to distribute through the
+fleet 8 good-sized cages, containing 16 pheasants
+from Mongolia for my friend Tom de Grey.
+“Crossoptelon Manchuricum” worth “some” should
+they reach England alive. Drank Her Majesty’s
+health <i lang='fr'>en route</i> with honours.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peiho
+River
+to
+Tientsin,
+May&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>This has been a scorching sun with a burning
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span>wind, while hot sand found its way into the interior
+of our boats, as well as into our eyes and everything
+we ate or drank. We managed a walk of two or
+three miles, which can always be accomplished without
+detaining the boats by watching on the chart (the
+Admiralty one is very good) where the river takes
+an unusual sweep round, when you walk across to
+the nearest point. No rain having fallen for three
+weeks, the ground was hard and hot; and the
+natives anticipated a bad harvest.</p>
+
+<p>Among the odds and ends one sees in the shops
+in Peking, nothing is more curious, as well as absurd,
+than the children’s toys. Conolly’s Chinese servant
+was put in requisition to make a double collection—one
+for our children and the other for them to send
+by the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> to numerous cousins.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>It was near midnight before we got alongside the
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XCIX">
+    CHAPTER XCIX
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Chefoo to Japan</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+May&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Before starting for Peking, I informed the Consul at
+Tientsin of my intention to pay, on my return, my
+respects to Tchung-How, the same Governor that
+was here when I was in the <span class='ships'>Dido</span>, and, with the
+exception of the Viceroy at Canton, the most finished
+Chinese gentleman I had met. In reply to the
+Consul’s message, Tchung-How hoped we would not
+be late as he had to pray for rain.</p>
+
+<p>Scott attended on my visit to His Excellency, who
+lived two miles away on the opposite side of the
+river. Tchung-How, in addition to being Governor,
+is superintendent of trade and junior guardian of the
+heir-apparent. Mr. Morgan acted as interpreter.
+We were received with the usual courtesy, the
+Viceroy holding his hands before him and bending
+forward at each door. In the inner room we had
+tea, and then, in the second, champagne and fruit.
+Made the visit short, and was glad to get away;
+having exchanged into lighter clothing, visited curio
+shops, in which there was a sad falling off; dealers in
+furs and skins charged double what they did in Peking.</p>
+
+<p>Had still to return the visit of the Russian Consul
+C. Skottschkoff. He has a Cossack look about him;
+his wife, not being got up to receive visitors, disappeared
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span>by an opposite door, but I believe she is
+pretty and speaks English. Our Consul and his
+wife joined us at dinner; she made herself very
+agreeable.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Made an early start with the hopes of crossing the
+bar in the afternoon, but the pilot, I believe from the
+want of his accustomed cocktail, failed in nerve and
+muddled us twice; by dark we came to, a little more
+than halfway down the Peiho.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peiho-Taku
+Forts,
+May&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Started early, but not in time to save the tide over
+the bar; a bore, am anxious to get north. We brought
+up close to the celebrated Taku Forts, that the
+squadron under Sir James Hope had such good
+reason to remember. Some of our officers landed,
+and no objection was made to their inspecting forts.
+They report them as in good repair, guns mounted
+and ammunition ready, but nothing heavier than
+32-pounders, evidently taken from our gunboats,
+having the “V.R.” on them; but these will be
+retaken before long!</p>
+
+<p>The European in charge of signal station
+stated that the garrisons, formerly thirty or forty
+in each fort, had within the last month been
+increased to 800 soldiers in one and 600 in the
+other. The coolies state that all foreigners are
+shortly to be driven out of China. I believe they
+are conceited enough to attempt it. Secret copies
+of some of Commissioner Li’s correspondence had
+reached our Embassy at Peking. If anything is to
+take place, I hope it may come off in my time; I am
+confident that a war would eventually benefit both
+sides.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>May&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Read prayers to ship’s company. At 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> came
+to at Chefoo. The mail had arrived from England.
+Discussions had taken place in Parliament in which the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span>Duke of Somerset and Lord Clarendon proved how
+mistaken they were regarding the state of China.
+An <em>apology</em> was to be sent to the Chinese Government
+for our “mistake” in Formosa!</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Chefoo,
+May&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Inspected Charles Scott’s <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>; as I expected,
+found her in perfect order.</p>
+
+<p>The coaling of the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> painfully slow; lazy
+coolies passing the coal on board in small baskets
+holding less than a shovelful each. Operation completed
+by 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Having laid in a stock of sheep
+and poultry, started for Japan.</p>
+
+<p>Markham informed me that a Russian corvette
+had been at Chefoo with a live bear and a lion’s skin
+for me from friend Etholin of Vladivostock. They
+went on to Shanghai, where I hope they will be put
+into the <span class='ships'>Juno</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Got through the Simonoseki Straits before dark.
+Once more the inland sea; at no time of the year can
+it look more beautiful; crops ripening and the green
+grass and trees in all the freshness of spring. At 4.30
+entered the far-famed whirlpool passage, but it was
+time of neap tides and the flood was within an hour
+of its making, which it does two hours after high
+water. It required close watching and quick helm to
+prevent being slewed broadside on by the “Chow-Chow”
+water. It is safest to pass through with the
+current.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama,
+June&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>By daylight we were standing into the Bay of
+Yedo; <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, and <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>
+made their numbers. We passed under the stern of
+the old <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, where the band and officers were
+on the poop to welcome the old Chief. Steamed
+ahead of the stately <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and came to before 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>
+Found the wife and children well and happy at the
+Legation House. Sir Harry Parkes absent in Yedo,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span>but everything done to make us feel at home.
+Denison had come out by mail, at his own expense,
+to take command of <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, as her paying-off
+was to be here. Flag hoisted on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>,
+June&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>The French commodore and captains, as well as
+Dutch and American senior officers, visited <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>.
+All the heads of departments had already visited, and
+been attentive to the wife on her arrival.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Accompanied by Heneage, returned calls of the
+French, American, and Netherlands commanders;
+the two former giving me a personal salute. The
+small arms men and marines from <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>,
+4047 tons, Captain Stanhope, landed and went through
+their evolutions, to the admiration of Colonel Norman
+of the 9th Regiment (The Norfolk). The field-pieces
+were beautifully worked. I was mounted on
+Sir Harry Parkes’s charger, which, however, refused to
+stand fire. I have had the house built snug and substantial,
+easy to be got rid of! My ponies Tiu and
+Ko in the Legation stable, where the poor old grey
+given me by Mrs. Fitzroy is dying.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>Pouring with rain and a gale blowing. We dined
+with the Marshalls, plodding there in chairs, ankle
+deep in mud. The Normans, Mrs. Alt, Adams,
+Stanhope, and Helen were of the party; the dinner,
+as usual, excellent, wines to match. Drank the health
+of Georgie West, her birthday.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>. It is difficult to imagine a cleaner
+or more perfect man-of-war. Hard lines, the depriving
+me of my flagship! Dined with the Normans
+in their barrack hut; every exertion made by kind
+hostess to make us enjoy our visit, in which she
+perfectly succeeded. At the door on way home met a
+youngster with our mail from England.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama.</div>
+
+<p>In noting events it is odd I should have omitted the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span>severest shock of earthquake that I had experienced.
+It occurred at 4 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> on Monday. I was sitting at
+the Legation talking with Risk. The house shook
+violently for a quarter of a minute, and after the
+lapse of a few seconds went on again, with sounds of
+cracking and groaning. Keppel Garnier was with May
+at the Marshalls: the bells rang, the house cracked,
+and the broken mortar was heard tumbling inside the
+walls. Mrs. Marshall seized her baby, and Garnier,
+May; both rushed out on to the lawn; raining hard.
+At the Club, billiard balls rolled about, and the Japs
+deserted the house.</p>
+
+<p>The mail did not bring much important news. It
+was in contemplation at the Admiralty to submit the
+names of certain Admirals for the distinction of Grand
+Cross of the Bath on Her Majesty’s birthday. Friend
+Beauchamp Seymour informs me that, owing to the
+Commodore not waiting for the Viceroy’s contingent
+for the attack on the villages at Swatow, my name is
+not to be sent in!</p>
+
+<p>Inspected <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, a fit pendant to the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>.
+Poor Brand has earned his promotion, if the order of
+his ship is any criterion.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Early telegraph this morning from <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>: “Many
+happy returns of the day to Commander-in-Chief”
+from captain and officers. Signalled back “Many
+and grateful thanks.” Parkes arrived in evening,
+having ridden from Yedo. An 8.30 dinner: glad to
+see my friend so well. Most of the naval officers and
+other friends called in the course of the day to congratulate
+me on my natal day.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Having returned all garrison calls, visited the
+Foreign Ministers yesterday. The American Minister,
+a General, had read the name of his successor—the
+only intimation that he was to be relieved. How
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span>pleasantly governments do things! Parkes is the
+only minister who has courage enough to take up
+his residence among these turbulent people! Yesterday,
+having arranged with Parkes to go to Yedo
+with him, found a horse and escort waiting for me at
+Kanagava. Without hurrying, caught up Sir Harry
+at a half-way tea-house. We were ferried over the
+River Rokugo. The supports for a bridge were
+standing, one having been built last year for the
+Mikado, who was on his way from Osaka to Yedo,
+and afterwards pulled down, so that no one else
+could take advantage of it.</p>
+
+<p>We were met at the tea-house by Mr. Sibbald,
+interpreter, and young Hodges, studying to become
+one; and attended by a mounted escort from Yedo,
+as unlike cavalry soldiers as a feminine dress and
+diminutive appearance could make them. The present
+Legation, although not large, is most pleasantly
+situated on high ground, with a flag-staff on which
+the flag of <span class='ships'>Perfide Albion</span> may be seen from every
+part of Yedo!</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yedo,
+June&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>We found Bertram Mitford delightfully situated
+on another eminence within a few minutes’ walk,
+while Adams had taken possession of the snug little
+house formerly occupied by Mitford. A small
+cemetery separating the two—most convenient for the
+joint mess.</p>
+
+<p>Sibbald came in during the evening; he had
+accompanied the Tycoon’s younger brother in his
+travels and visited with him most of the Courts
+of Europe. He described the young Jap as intelligent
+and shrewd in his remarks, although he got
+occasionally bored by over-sightseeing. In answer
+to one of his questions why our ladies exposed so
+much of their persons in evening dress, he was told,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span>“Out of compliment to His Highness”; on which he
+supposed if his Emperor had been there they would
+have come naked! Nor could he understand high
+personages dancing: a performance in his country he
+paid people for doing.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be cleaner, prettier, or nicer than
+these Jap houses for summer residences. The house
+at Yokohama, engrossing all the best furniture, the
+accommodation here assumed a most agreeable sort
+of “roughing it.” A party on horseback, and two
+carriages, in one of which Parkes drove my wife,
+went to see the tombs of the Shogoons (so Mitford
+spells what we pronounce Tycoon, and he is sure to
+be right) at Zôôji, at Shiba, the castle, and other
+sights in Yedo, which I, fancying I had seen before,
+did not join, preferring the cool of the pretty grounds
+about the Legation.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Have some two days’ back journal to write up.
+In the afternoon news reached us of the loss of the
+<span class='ships'>Haya Maro</span>, a fine steamer bound to Osaka, which
+seems to have struck on the same rock as the <span class='ships'>Nepaul</span>
+about two years ago, situated about 200 yards to
+the eastward of the well-known Plymouth rocks.
+She was going at the rate of 14 knots, her bottom
+was torn out and she went down head foremost
+in less than five minutes in 40 fathoms water. The
+only excuse for cutting the point so close was to
+shorten the distance a cable’s length, the captain having
+made a bet he would accomplish the voyage to Osaka
+in thirty hours. Among the twenty-one lives lost
+was an old China friend, Margesson, who dined
+with us only a week ago. Poor fellow! after service
+as a merchant for some twenty-eight years, he was on
+his way home to enjoy the fruits of his labours.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner party included Hodges, Doctors Sibly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span>and Willes. Willes had taken service with the
+Japanese. Although he frequently attended those
+connected with the Court, he had never been allowed
+near the Mikado. In fact, even now, if necessary
+to feel the Imperial pulse, a piece of tape is fastened
+to the wrist and the end is passed through a hole
+in the wall into the adjoining room when the doctor
+approaches, beating the mats with his head!</p>
+
+<p>The next day (20th) the launch started, soon
+after high water, with the same party she had
+brought up, while we waited until Sir Harry Parkes
+was ready. I was mounted on the Minister’s pet
+grey Arab charger. Mitford kindly accompanied
+me part of the way, and cautioned me to be careful
+of said charger, he having been down once, and
+getting shaky on his legs. We pulled up by the
+roadside. There we found a square plot fenced
+round as sacred, the Mikado having condescended
+to alight on that place. In another direction a
+rustic bridge was stopped up, the Imperial foot
+having passed over it.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Rokugo,
+Japan, to
+Yokohama.</div>
+
+<p>The carriage with Parkes and my wife reached
+the ferry at Rokugo just as I got to the other side.
+The river is called Tama Gawa (jewel river). We
+both nearly came to grief; in spite of all Mitford’s
+caution and my care, the beautiful grey fell, as if
+shot, in the streets of Yokohama, cutting both knees.
+Those only who have ridden their friends’ favourite
+horse, with a similar catastrophe, can understand
+my feelings. When I broke the fact to Sir Harry,
+instead of wishing that it had been my neck
+instead of his horse’s knees, he merely “hoped I had
+escaped unhurt.” In the carriage they had had a
+narrow escape: one of the ponies, a bumptious beast,
+that never neared another animal without apparently
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span>wishing to eat it, stopped on meeting a carriage that
+had pulled up on the narrow raised causeway, on
+both sides of which there is a drop of some 12 feet
+into the sea, and that made still more unpleasant by
+short piles thickly driven in. The beast screamed
+and backed in spite of the whip, which was dropped
+into him smartly by the Minister. The mounted
+orderlies saw the danger. One seized my wife, and
+the other got hold of the ponies’ heads, only just in
+time; the adventure did not improve my wife’s
+nerves. They reached the Legation just before me,
+having taken a different road.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday was the anniversary of the Queen’s Accession,
+and in church we had the service appointed for
+that event, finishing with “God save the Queen.”
+Not at all bad for Yokohama.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>, with our friend Du Petit Thours,
+went out of harbour as I rode in on Saturday, along
+the Tikado, and I was much disappointed at not seeing
+any notice taken of him when the <span class='ships'>Dupleix</span> passed
+our ships, she being homeward bound, while their
+kindness and hospitality to Harry Stephenson and
+the wrecked crew of the <span class='ships'>Rattler</span> in September last
+was fresh in our memories.</p>
+
+<p>I learned afterwards that, having the French
+prisoners on board who had led on and then deserted
+the rebels, Du Petit Thours was afraid that a wrong
+construction might be put on our cheers, and wrote
+to Stanhope, hoping that we should not take any
+notice of him. We never met so good a Frenchman
+or a better man.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Opossum</span> returned from expedition up Yang-tse.
+A placard had been stuck up in I-Chang offering
+rewards for her capture, as well as others for the
+heads of the captain or crew!</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_C">
+    CHAPTER C
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Yokohama,
+June&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Some man remarked that having lost half an hour on
+coming into the world, he was never afterwards able
+to make up the lost time. My journal has got three
+days behind, and I feel that I shall not be able to
+make it up. This is an attempt. My temper, too,
+ruffled by a vet who, I believe, poisoned Mrs.
+Fitzroy’s grey pony.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>The American Admiral arrived on the 21st and a
+Prussian corvette on the 22nd, when much saluting
+of three admirals with their returns took place.
+Hakodati invested, but still holding out. Yesterday
+commenced housekeeping on our own account, obtaining
+our hospitable host’s permission. Children
+taking kindly to a day governess after desperate
+opposition by Colin. Blowing too hard to return
+calls afloat. Called on the Netherlands Consul, who
+was entertaining a party of twenty Dutchmen who
+claimed me as a countryman, and with pleasure we
+liquored up in sweet champagne. Colin enjoying
+the substantials.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>On starting for church this morning, the card of
+Don José de Grandaria, ex-Captain-General of the
+Philippines, was put into my hand. He had arrived
+by the American mail <i lang='fr'>en route</i> for Europe, <i lang='fr'>viâ</i>
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span>San Francisco. Good fellow that he is, he came to
+luncheon, and if possible will dine; glad of an
+opportunity of returning a trifle of his hospitality.
+News from Hakodadi of the capture of the town
+by the Imperialist troops and total destruction by
+explosives of two of Kerair ships. They, however,
+still hold the forts.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Mounted Colin on the pony “Ko” and gave him
+his first lesson in riding.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Had the <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> steam launch ready yesterday
+evening to convey my good friend, the Governor of
+Manila, on board the mail steamer. We first became
+acquainted in 1837 when he was Governor of
+Fernando Po.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>The shock of an earthquake was felt about 1 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>
+Clearing up in the afternoon, Colin mounted his pony
+before I had got hold of the tow-rope. Colin touched
+him with the whip to close with me. The pony,
+being fresh, gave a jump and a kick, placing the little
+man on what he called his “bob” on the road, and
+scampered up His Excellency’s soft turf.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after midnight a sensation was caused by the
+report of firearms. Guards were turned out. Sir
+Harry Parkes saddled, ordered his escort, and scouts
+were sent into the town to ascertain the cause. It
+proved to be a few Americans sitting up late to usher
+in the anniversary of their nation’s Independence.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>The French mail brought news of my promotion.
+The flag was shifted to the main and saluted, all
+foreign men-of-war following suit. Parkes off for
+Yedo. He is indeed a zealous, active Minister.
+The anniversary of American Independence is to be
+kept to-day. Our ships are dressed with flags; the
+stars and stripes will be saluted at noon by a royal
+salute. Hear that our friend Mrs. Alt, who took
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span>such care of Algie Heneage and myself at Nagasaki
+when we were ill, has had a bad fall from her pony,
+which fell with her over the edge of a bank, a
+drop of some fifteen feet, kicking her twice in the
+chest. Called to inquire,
+and found Mrs.
+Alt in the garden. Her
+ribs were dented, not
+broken.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_274'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_274.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Mrs. Alt.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>The French mail
+brought Challier, the
+successor to Commodore
+Jones. Challier
+commanded the <span class='ships'>Newton</span>
+when I had <i>St.
+Jean d’Acre</i> in the
+Tagus. Am left the
+senior and oldest of
+all the Naval Commanders
+on the station.
+Stanhope, Crossman,
+and self inspected
+yesterday afresh the
+site of the Naval
+Hospital, the erection of which has now been four
+years in contemplation by the Admiralty.</p>
+
+<p>The advantages and saving to the country in money,
+as well as in transport of invalids, who could be easily
+cured in this fine climate, has been admitted from the
+beginning. Then again, the idea that the authorities
+at home should know better the style of building
+required than those on the spot has been the cause of
+the interchange of plans and surveys. Plans sent out
+not suitable to the climate, and again each successive
+Government not having the courage to insert the cost
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span>in the naval estimates, the expense now, if the hospital
+is ever built, will be more than double what it would
+have been had it been erected when its advantages
+and economy were first acknowledged.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>To luncheon yesterday on board <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>: everything
+perfect, in Stanhope’s usual style. Afterwards
+to <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, taking children. She being ordered home,
+had all sorts of live animals. Among them were two
+bears, who had the run of the ship. In the summer
+months hammocks were little used; the bears lay
+where they liked, the men using them as pillows.
+Each bear would accommodate ten or a dozen at a
+time. By day they were all over the place, generally
+aloft, in the tops or along the yards, from which they
+could see every arrival on board.</p>
+
+<p>My daughter was a small four-year-old. While
+on the poop she found herself rolling along the deck
+in the embrace of a bear she had not before seen. Of
+course she was immediately released. She knew not
+what fear was. The next moment she had seized
+one of the mizzentopmast broomsticks, and the bear
+made the best of his way aloft. He was a young
+Siberian given me by Etholin, brought here by the
+<span class='ships'>Juno</span> from Hong Kong; by which ship friend Hugh
+Low sent us four Sulu pearls.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>My servant, Ah Ho’s right eye black and swollen,
+painted so, not for the first time, by my man Fuller—who
+goes!</p>
+
+<p>A boat-race came off on Saturday between the
+United States <span class='ships'>Iroquois</span> and <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>. <span class='ships'>Iroquois</span> held the
+challenge cock they had won from our <span class='ships'>Zebra</span>, and
+published some tall talk in Yokohama papers. The
+American boat was a double-banked whaler, the
+<span class='ships'>Ocean’s</span> a twelve-oared cutter. A fresh breeze.
+Betting in favour of the American boat, on which
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span>some $1500 had been invested. The American
+officers had been on board <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> with their bag the
+evening before, and remained until every dollar they
+brought was covered.</p>
+
+<p>Never was such an example: the course five
+miles. The first three strokes sent the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> a
+length ahead, which advantage they kept, winning by
+five minutes. Law, the Commander of <span class='ships'>Iroquois</span>,
+guessed he would have to resign the “chicken” he
+had taken such care of.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Wrote Cooper Key asking him to appoint Gye
+Gunnery-Lieutenant of <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> on recommission.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Was introduced to the new bear, a cub resembling
+the older one. Band played at Jardine’s. Colin’s pony
+evinced his dislike to Europeans by kicking one of
+the escort, then Webb, and also trying it with me.
+Got on his back and quieted him, on the strength of
+which he afterwards kicked one of Herbert Smith’s
+servants, and near home lifted up his heels without
+unseating the small Colin. Parkes returned from
+Yedo; had Kassim and the curry cook to let him
+know what a good curry was.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>On Sunday we attended divine service on board
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> and lunched with Algie Heneage. Yesterday
+was an eventful one in my small way. Inspected
+the old <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> for last time. Had a farewell
+luncheon in the ward-room. Was absent in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>
+eighteen months out of two years. Hoped to have
+had the last year on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> when this unfair
+order comes to send her home.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>Band playing at Jardine’s. M‘Hardy, Nepean,
+and Heneage to dine. While enjoying cigars the
+report of a gun from seaward, followed by a couple
+of rockets, announced arrival of English mail. Promotion
+of mates in <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. Bath in all its degrees
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span>conferred. I passed over for the G.C.B. Death of
+my old Chief in Crimea, Charles Freemantle, has
+placed me at the head of the Vice.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>July&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Got out in the evening yesterday for a ride with
+Colin. Had Algie Heneage to dinner, Bamber,
+Woodruffe, Ogle, and Simley. As <span class='ships'>Cormorant</span> was
+going to the northward, made her signal to weigh
+and take us in tow. As we got away, <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> manned
+rigging and yards to the very trucks. They used
+aloft, with pretty effect, small boat flags, and gave
+three hearty cheers to the parting ship, such as
+Britishers only give. The American Admiral and
+Italian ships likewise gave parting cheers. After
+luncheon with Algie Heneage, some four miles from
+the anchorage we bade the old <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> farewell.</p>
+
+<p>It is seldom that relationship has the same hold
+on a sailor’s affections as that of a shipmate. They
+manned the rigging and repeated hearty parting
+cheers. After we had quitted her, the flag was transferred
+to <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and saluted by <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. French
+mail in. Article in <span class='ships'>Saturday Review</span>, May 29,
+on “English Policy” in China refers to the actions
+of Gurdon and Domville at Swatow and Formosa
+last year. Local papers defend my policy.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CI">
+    CHAPTER CI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">The China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Ocean</span>,
+July&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>Our band played on the Bund, no better in the Far
+East! Japs making great preparations to receive
+the Duke of Edinburgh.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama,
+Aug.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Parkes and M‘Lay come to dine. Much talk on
+China affairs; few people better able to form an
+opinion than our two guests. All agreed how
+lamentably misinformed our Government is.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>Fine weather at last. Madame and Mademoiselle
+Bertrand, Parkes, and Newton dined with us. In the
+night we were disturbed by a row in the domestic
+department. A big negro caulker had been visiting
+in the village, and returned at 3 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, having been
+rolled in the mud a foot deep. He made for the
+kitchen, where his appearance terrified the Chinese
+cook, who gave the alarm of thieves. On the animal
+being removed to his ship, he admitted to its having
+been caused by keeping low company, as if there
+could be anything lower than himself. He had
+affected while on board a religious turn of mind.</p>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> arrived yesterday, and Brooker, who called
+this morning, proposed a party on board his ship
+to visit “Die Boots.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>Starting at an early hour to go on board <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>,
+was unable to finish remarks for preceding day.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span>On 4th, while at dinner, a gun announced the arrival
+of English mail. Having seen telegrams in both
+American and French up to 3rd July, my mind was
+set at rest about chance of promotion and relief, the
+mail bringing news up to June 18, which pronounced
+“Admirals Firm.” The last thing that caught my
+eye was a small envelope with “<span class='ships'>Telegraph</span>” in the
+corner, which sure enough contained all that I had
+been dreading for a year. It was from the Admiralty,
+July 3, and commenced with, “You are promoted”:
+it ordered me to Singapore to meet my relief, who
+would be there on September 3.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, I was to go tearing down against the
+monsoon in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, with her worn-out boilers, when
+my relief could come up in half the time, before the
+wind; and then I was to have the pleasure of crossing
+the Red Sea in the month of September.</p>
+
+<p>As there are two routes, and no detriment to the
+Service thereby, I determined on waiting at Yokohama.
+The time has come at last, my reign nearly
+over, and I have no cause to complain; if it were
+not for the unjust withholding the G.C.B., I should
+proceed on my way home rejoicing.</p>
+
+<p>We got under way yesterday in the <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> at
+10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Our party consisted of Madame and
+Mademoiselle Bertrand, Raby, Loreiro, Miller, and
+ourselves; everything successful but the weather,
+which continued rainy and misty. We anchored off
+the bay at 11, and having made an excellent breakfast,
+proceeded in steam launch. Another boat
+brought the ladies’ chairs, coolies, and those who
+liked to come.</p>
+
+<p>The channel, except at high water, when you can
+make a straight course, is difficult. However, with
+the assistance of a native pilot, we got into the tea-house
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span>at Kanasawa without accident, beyond occasionally
+touching the bottom. In less than a quarter of
+an hour, pedestrians, horsemen (our ponies had been
+sent on early from Yokohama), and chairs were fairly
+under way.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery beautiful, and in spite of the weather,
+and slow progress of chairs over slippery ground,
+everybody was cheery, Madame Bertrand walking
+the whole seven miles. “Die Boots” was there in
+all his grandeur, and a striking sight it is. Since I
+saw it two years ago, the inside has been desecrated
+with the usual Anglo-Saxon names; in fact, there is a
+native who makes a small fortune by attending with
+a ladder, brush, and red paint for all those who wish to
+immortalize their lady-love’s or their own interesting
+names!</p>
+
+<p>Our coolies had to “chow-chow,” and the afternoon
+was far advanced before we were on our
+return. The slippery paths made progress so slow
+that it was dark by the time we reached our boats;
+the tide, although falling, was still high, and with the
+help of our natives and the ship in the offing well
+lighted, we got safely on board, but too late to be
+back in time to entertain Sir Harry, who had
+promised to dine with us. We partook of Brooker’s
+hospitable tea, at which we made an excellent <em>dinner</em>.
+The <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span> under way anchored at 10.30. By
+11.30 we were at home; by 12.30 at midnight we
+were well shaken by an earthquake!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p><span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, 21, corvette, Captain John F. Ross,
+arrived under sail from Hakodadi. Ross, Boxer, and
+Miller dined with us. Inspected <span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>, in very nice
+order. Flag hoisted at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Aug.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>Rougemont, “First” of <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, came in evening full
+of distress at a boat full of officers having been missing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span>for two days, and without grub. Active and energetic
+steps immediately taken by Parkes: the Consular
+Establishment and whole escort put in motion, the
+Japanese Government despatching couriers by sea and
+land. It appeared afterwards that Rougemont had
+been living with Beato, and forgot that the missing
+might have returned in his absence from the ship,
+which, in fact, they had, and the whole of them had
+well fed and turned in an hour before this smart
+“First” gave this unnecessary alarm. Parkes indignant,
+and small blame to him.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Sabbath, and piping hot! We were enlivened by
+a royal salute in honour of the birthday of the
+Emperor Napoleon III., fired by the French ships in
+harbour.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Hot weather appears to have set in. The greatest
+nuisance one has to contend with by day, as well as by
+night, are the mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Our band played at Jardine’s on the afternoon of
+17th, where I went to meet our letters on their landing
+from <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. Ascertained that the death of
+Admiral Bowles was the cause of my promotion. A
+telegram from Admiralty extending the time that I
+should meet my relief at Singapore to the 19th
+September. If they had taken that date into consideration
+at first, I might have been down there in
+time, but now the 19th will be as inconvenient as the
+3rd September was a fortnight ago. The telegram
+also contained directions to assemble as large a naval
+force as practicable to be placed under Stanhope, but
+its destination could not be made out. No public
+news. Admiralty permission given to dispense with
+<em>razors!</em> for which I am sorry.</p>
+
+<p>The death of Lieutenant Kent of the <span class='ships'>Avon</span>
+enabled me to promote Hammet (from <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>),
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span>whose uncle was killed in the trenches before
+Sevastopol. Yesterday at 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> inspected <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>;
+clean and wholesome.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Threatening weather: got wet through in our
+ride. Wilkinsons and Adams dined with us yesterday.
+Slight earthquake in afternoon. This morning
+a typhoon.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday,
+Aug.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>The typhoon was sharp and short, but did considerable
+damage. Marshall’s house nearly unroofed.
+Lindo’s fanciful cottage blown down. Verandahs
+round soldiers’ huts blown up. American steamer,
+adrift, stove in <span class='ships'>Salamis’s</span> bows, carried away <span class='ships'>Sylvia’s</span>
+bowsprit, and did much more damage of less interest
+to me. Band played on the bluff.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Brooding over my wrongs and the want of consideration
+on the part of my friends the Admiralty
+in ordering me to Singapore against the monsoon, to
+give up the command to a successor and my junior,
+when he might so much more easily come up to me at
+a saving of £1700 worth of fuel! Another hot day.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Mail off this morning; a lull now till the arrival
+of the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, overdue. Phelps dined with us
+yesterday: he the manager of the Pacific Mail
+Company; she “raised” and in heart a Southerner; he
+ditto, but both loyal. The Scotts of 10th Regiment
+also dined: she the daughter of the once charming
+Caroline Stoll, who married, first Thompson, father
+of Mrs. Scott, secondly Bob Tryon: she died soon
+after.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Made an attempt yesterday in Curio Street: disappointed
+in the trip I had promised myself with the
+Duke of Edinburgh to Peking; have now the difficulty
+of executing two ladies’ commissions for curios
+in Japan, where they are now not only scarce, but
+enormously dear. Our dinner-party included Dr.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span>Hofferman, Staff-Inspector-General of Military
+Hospitals, Maxwell, Bosman, and Leman.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Sorely tempted yesterday to buy two nietschkies,
+but prices are 500 per cent above what they used to be.
+Got a ride with my boy, who begins to move faster
+than the Betto who leads the pony can stand.
+French mail arrived this morning, bringing French
+Admiral.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Into Curio Street again! Could not resist two of
+the best nietschkies I have seen, but at the highest
+price. In the evening we got the contents of French
+mail. An Admiral Seymour dead. Hope it is
+not my friend Henry, although news by last mail
+announced his being ill. <span class='ships'>Penelope</span> to be new flagship.
+Hewitt to be Captain. This morning returned
+new French Admiral’s visit; also looked up my old
+friend the American Admiral Rowan, in whose cabin
+I saw my photograph framed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Intended to have recorded passing events after
+church yesterday, but on coming out, the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>
+was reported coming in (29).</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Our Saturday dinner-party included Major and
+Mr. Lucas, Gambier (<span class='ships'>Sylvia</span>), and Stanhope. I was
+restless during the night, which, added to occasional
+strange noises, sent me cruising about the house with
+my revolver. Having seen the orderly on the alert,
+I placed the revolver on the dressing-table, which
+stood between the entrance to the bathroom and the
+side of the bed where I slept, close at hand, and again
+turned in. On awakening, found some expert thief
+had entered by the bathroom window, left open for
+air, and had not only abstracted three pairs of my wife’s
+boots, but, by way of adding insult to injury, the
+rascal appropriated my revolver and the clothes of
+my Flag-Lieutenant.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span></p>
+
+<p>Several Japs had been seen about the grounds
+during the night by the orderlies, but in the unfinished
+state of outbuildings and grounds they had
+many ways of escape. A small ladder used by the
+builders was found placed against the bathroom
+windows, by which the rogue or rogues had entered.</p>
+
+<p>After luncheon yesterday, Parkes accompanied me
+on board <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, where I went to receive the Captain
+of the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>; afterwards went unofficially on board
+<span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to talk over arrangements for landing, etc.
+H.R.H. looking well, after his wound at Sydney,
+and courteous, as he well knows how to be. We
+left him to read the contents of three mails.</p>
+
+<p>Parkes and Stanhope dined with us, and made
+all sorts of arrangements, which were upset by His
+Royal Highness this morning. At 11 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> he
+landed at the bottom of the grounds to let me know
+his plans. Accompanied the Prince to call on
+Colonel Norman, Acting Commander-in-Chief, and
+found Mrs. Norman.</p>
+
+<p>On arrival of the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, I was astonished to find
+His Royal Highness and crew clean-shaved, H.R.H.
+not having heard of the Admiralty permission to
+grow beards, the order having reached Yokohama
+a few days previous to his arrival—a proof of
+H.R.H.’s strict idea of discipline, although he knew
+very well that I should not have interfered with the
+internal discipline of his ship.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CII">
+    CHAPTER CII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Close of China Command</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Yedo,
+Sept.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo.
+Invited by H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, at whose
+disposal this delightful residence was placed but yesterday.
+Proceedings have first to be recorded. The
+day commenced with heavy rain, which continued,
+but the Duke had decided on hoisting the royal
+standard at 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, landing in state, and holding a
+levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the
+Legation at 11. Having previously gone on board
+and been saluted by all the men-of-war present at
+10.30, we left the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> in the Prince’s barge.
+Yards manned and another royal salute.</p>
+
+<p>H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from
+the 10th regiment, another of French marines, while
+the road was lined up to the Legation by the 10th
+and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was
+cheered from the yards of his own ship on leaving,
+which was repeated by such ships as he passed in his
+way. Had the weather been anything but rainy, the
+whole thing would have had a grand effect. After
+the levée we had luncheon at the Legation, then
+the Prince, putting on shooting jacket and <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>
+hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H.
+having visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span>a very fair inspection; many things were selected and
+put aside for future bargainings.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>I was on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> by 9 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> At 10 we
+started in steam launch for Kanagawa, where Parkes
+had sent his carriages and mounted escort. In the
+first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford
+(latter told off expressly for attendance on the
+Prince); the other brought Elliot Yorke, Haig, and
+Adams.</p>
+
+<p>Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only <i lang='fr'>contretemps</i>
+being the springs of our vehicle breaking down
+and causing us twice to alight for repairs; but the
+Japanese roads, however good they may have been,
+are not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now
+existing between Yedo and Yokohama. We were
+preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs,
+while innumerable small guards turned out and presented
+arms after their own demi-French instruction.</p>
+
+<p>At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince,
+and the party appointed by the Japanese Government
+to attend His Royal Highness. No place could have
+been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely
+furnished in European style, while the walls
+were covered with curiously painted Japanese paper.
+A guard of twenty-five marines had arrived before
+us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a
+similar number of Japs, who formerly belonged to
+the Tycoon, and had been well drilled by the French.
+In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent bronze
+vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons,
+etc., one of the presents from the Mikado. After
+luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a Prince of the Royal
+blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the
+afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective
+houses. We strolled through the pretty, well-kept
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span>grounds, made to look as little formal and like
+nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every
+kindness and consideration, selecting a room next
+that occupied by himself, consulting me as to costume
+for dinner. And on my suggesting round jackets as
+the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace
+trousers, which appeared to be the mess dress of
+<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>. Dinner quiet, and good coffee, the best I
+have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long after
+dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to
+his future movements, hoping I would give him
+concise orders while within the limits of the station,
+so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we
+might arrange the same.</p>
+
+<p>I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness
+about his narrow escape at Sydney; he kindly
+showed me the wound at the right of the spine—a
+hole into which I could thrust the end of my little
+finger.</p>
+
+<p>Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent
+volumes of about 14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep,
+containing coloured pictures—in fact, a complete
+history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could
+purchase. In front of the Prince’s window were
+large China bowls containing beautiful broad-tailed
+specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged
+on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed
+trees, etc., all of which His Royal Highness was to
+consider his own.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Palace of
+the
+Mikado,
+Japan,
+Sept.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we
+managed to get over to a covered-in place within the
+Palace grounds to see a combat of swords and spears.
+Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords
+were of bamboo. The practice was interesting
+enough; heavy blows and thrusts were exchanged.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span>An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had
+been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and
+steel masks. Armour on the left side, as far down
+as the waist.</p>
+
+<p>After bowing to the audience, the combatants
+saluted one another: on the same principle, I
+suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring shake
+hands before punching one another’s heads. When
+the supposed fatal blow was given, the vanquished
+walked off, while the victor uncovered his head and
+“kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long
+spears were conducted on same principle. The men
+were selected from the Japanese guard.</p>
+
+<p>The Minister said that had he educated the
+warriors of different Daimios they would be sure to
+fight it out afterwards to the death if different chiefs’
+followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to
+arrange a revised route for <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, she being three
+weeks behind time. Having duly considered the
+whole, and what Kellett might have had to say had
+he not been pitched on his head before leaving
+England, which delayed his arrival, we were of
+opinion that I should give up the San Francisco
+route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my
+successor at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph
+to the Board accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon
+a man of Mitford’s came with curios—apparently a
+bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two swords,
+which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the
+owner had names written, which he pronounced to be
+certificates of their manufacture by an extinct artist.
+The Prince paid some £80, and to my mind there
+is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford
+too.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yedo.</div>
+
+<p>We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of
+the Tycoons, situated in the midst of a well-wooded
+garden or park. The most beautiful temples and
+elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were
+allowed to inspect everything, being in company of
+His Royal Highness.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching home we found mats before the door
+and preparations for jugglers: wonderfully clever;
+and here, as in other parts of the world, there was
+music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown.
+To-morrow we are to have a procession and the
+Prince’s visit to the Mikado, which we look forward
+to as rather a bore.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams
+joined the dinner last night. After that we had conjurors;
+the pretty butterfly trick was beautifully
+performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled
+clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this
+morning my gold watch, which I have had for forty
+years, and which I had given to my dear boy, has
+disappeared—I think while I was taking my bath.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who,
+having engaged the servants, offered to guarantee
+their honesty with his life, or rather undergo torture
+on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought
+against any one of them. However, before breakfast
+was announced, the culprit was discovered to be
+the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only was my
+watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money
+belonging to others were found in his possession.
+The only difficulty now will be to save the unfortunate
+wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty
+marines having been landed from the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, we
+had a late breakfast, and with the Legation mounted
+escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a way, we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span>proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence
+within the moat and castle walls.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sept. 6.</div>
+
+<p>The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons,
+and, in fact, the only ones admitted into the same
+room as His Majesty. No presentations took place and
+everything was as formal as need be, but exceedingly
+curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards
+at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of
+the castle, which are very extensive. Mitford acted
+as interpreter, and the exclusiveness surrounding the
+Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince
+presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid
+of which a miniature of himself was set in diamonds.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in
+the evening. Performers all women; acting supposed
+to be very good, and the greatest decorum preserved
+throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a
+game of cup and ball on a large scale, which took
+place on a plot of ground railed off for the occasion.
+A number of horsemen, about eight on each side,
+compete in throwing the greatest number of balls
+through a hole in a planking at the end of the ground,
+which is about two hundred yards in length by
+twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The
+riders are distinguished by their costume, which is
+very picturesque. Each man is armed with a staff
+of bamboo, about five feet long, at the end of which
+is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up the
+balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the
+ground on the opposite end from the board in which
+the hole is.</p>
+
+<p>They then ride towards it and throw the ball at
+the hole and go back for another. The balls bound
+back within the enclosed ground, and are again
+picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span>jostle one another, knock the balls from each other’s
+staffs, pick up and throw altogether away the balls of
+their adversaries. A signal from behind points out
+the number and colour of the balls that have passed
+through the hole.</p>
+
+<p>The next thing was the interior of a great
+Daimio’s Palace and to be entertained in regular
+Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio selected
+for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose
+income is estimated at £800,000 a year. He was
+absent, but a Prince of Japan was there to receive
+and do the honours.</p>
+
+<p>A Japanese fish dinner has been often described.
+We had to sit on the mats and eat with chop-sticks,
+drink cups of hot <i lang='ja'>saki</i> with the chief men, into
+which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered.
+In front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and
+a selection of plays performed during the feast.
+This was done by the retainers of the Daimio,
+according to ancient custom. The actors were men;
+the chief performers wore masks. The dresses were
+gorgeous, and looked as if new for the occasion.
+We did not understand the language, but Mitford
+had kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The
+motion of the actors was so exactly like that of a
+turkey cock with his tail spread out, that any one
+who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar
+circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description.</p>
+
+<p>After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking
+boxes were brought from the theatre and
+placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection. On
+being opened they proved to be the masks that had
+been used on this occasion, four in number, carved
+out of wood and painted. There was the lovely face
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span>of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call
+the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old.
+After this we pulled on our boots, mounted, and
+rode away, escorted as before, taking rather a circuitous
+route that the Prince might see something
+more of the city. On getting home found that
+Stanhope had come up to stay with Adams.</p>
+
+<p>A covered place has been erected in front of the
+house for the acrobats, so convenient that you see
+everything from a chair in the verandah. Another
+such place has also sprung up, which looks like an
+equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for
+wrestling. In fact, nothing has been forgotten by
+these kind and hospitable people that can add to the
+comfort or amusement of our Prince.</p>
+
+<p>I forgot to mention that after our return on
+Saturday we found the falconers waiting in full
+costume. The hawking, however, was very tame. A
+small species of water-rat was driven out of the
+ditches, which a small hawk clawed before it had
+gone 5 yards.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is
+conducted with much order and ceremony. The
+Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs to
+luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded
+to see the combat.</p>
+
+<p>One side of the square, which must have been
+about 80 yards, was covered in and fitted with
+chairs and seats for the Prince and his friends. On
+the raised platform in the centre, which was about
+20 feet square, and likewise roofed over, was an
+altar, on which incense was offered to propitiate
+some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side
+then appeared and formed a ring on the platform,
+and went through certain mystic movements, clapping
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span>of hands, extending arms, then legs, stamping heavily
+with first one foot, hands resting on one knee, then
+the other.</p>
+
+<p>This over, they retired to a small building erected
+at the corner near the end of the building in which
+the Prince and his guests sat, and from which to the
+platform there was a pathway railed off. Another
+party then issued from the opposite corner at
+the other end of the Prince’s stand, and went
+through the same ceremony. After these had retired,
+a herald summoned a man from each side.
+Certain ceremonies were again gone through. A
+friendly pinch of salt was brought by each and mixed
+with the soil on which they stood; they extended the
+arms and stamped and kow-towed and then squatted
+and watched each other like two game-cocks, until the
+signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang at
+each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did
+not observe anything peculiar in that manner of
+wrestling. There must have been as many as a
+hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the
+champions was reserved for the last and was exceedingly
+fine. The good Prince Nwajima and the
+smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange
+guests.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds
+were lighted up, and from one of the
+summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed
+some inferior fireworks, but the best these good
+people could produce. In another pavilion was a
+native band in full costume, probably the Mikado’s.
+The night was calm and fine. On return from the
+Legation, I found in my room a present from His
+Majesty in the shape of a handsome sword.</p>
+
+<p>Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span>some of the most extraordinary balancing
+ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his back
+balances on the soles of his feet four small things
+piled on one another. One of them was a glass
+bowl with fish in it; another, a bird-cage with a
+canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a
+child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected
+nearly at right angles from a bamboo-tree
+growing out of the upper box—difficult to describe,
+as I never saw the like.</p>
+
+<p>After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets:
+all good in its way, the scenery being so
+picturesque.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yedo to
+Yokohama,
+Sept.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>Events, although small, have followed each other
+so rapidly as to leave no time to write. By 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>
+on the 8th, Princes of the blood royal, Prince
+Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled
+at the summer palace to accompany the Duke on
+board the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, she having come over from
+Yokohama on the previous evening, where they
+were to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon.
+The <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> and <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> came over early in the
+morning. The morning had been rainy, but held
+up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside
+the islands, and as the tide was falling we cast
+off, and pulled on board the ships which were
+anchored between five and six miles from the shore.
+As we approached, the ships broke their masthead
+flags, manned yards, and fired royal salutes; looking
+as no other nation’s ships can look—ropes taut and
+yards square. Everything was most successful.
+The afternoon turned out fine, without being too
+hot. The royal visitors took their departure in
+<span class='ships'>Ocean</span> steam-launch at about 3.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, yards manned,
+and another salute. Our Prince’s royal standard
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span>was, after giving the steam-launch proper time to
+get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in
+its place; and then the signal made to weigh.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored
+at sunset, when the flag was transferred to the <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>.
+On landing, it was evident, by the concourse of people,
+that the Prince was expected. He, however, preferred
+remaining in his own snug quarters on board,
+and I took advantage of the Legation carriage to get
+a lift up the hill. In the morning I went down
+to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind
+offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the
+bungalow off my hands, and then into Curio Street,
+where I invested $800 for H.R.H. in bronzes;
+also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the
+10th (Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Yokohama
+Sept.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p><i>Sabbath.</i>—Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent
+our attending divine service. A great dinner
+was given on Friday night at the Legation, including
+the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as were
+in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding
+ships, followed by a ball, our countrywomen
+appearing to advantage. Prince tired; made
+his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which
+he danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall.</p>
+
+<p>H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning,
+approving of our curry, and then went home to be
+tatooed. The merchants having kindly determined
+on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out
+yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains
+invited to meet me.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>The kind friends who had decided on entertaining
+me at a parting dinner determined no expense or
+trouble should be spared. The press, too, entered
+cordially into the idea, and each had its leading
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span>article puffing me up to any extent. There was one
+painful part in all this to me: the speech which it
+entailed, that I had to prepare; although no preparation
+was necessary, one could think of nothing else.
+On Monday (13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the
+party who saw the Mikado at Yedo, were photographed
+by Beato. Inspected afterwards the <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>;
+clean and improved.</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable
+shrubs in my bungalow ground. They had formed
+part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in which
+the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening
+the dinner came off.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>Nothing was left undone by my entertainers;
+about eighty sat down, including the Minister, Chief-Justice
+Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman, and Captains
+of ships—among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh.
+My staff were also among the guests; <span class='ships'>Ocean’s</span>
+band in great form. Behind the head of the table
+was a place screened by flower-pots, where the wife
+and a few ladies were stowed.</p>
+
+<p>Got through my speech better than I expected;
+the whole thing was a complete success and ended
+by my being carried on the shoulders of my
+entertainers round the tables, preceded by the
+Prince’s Highland piper! Yesterday we had plenty
+to do, packing up and shifting on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with
+wife and chicks on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. It was determined
+to wait no longer for the mail, or our time at
+Peking must be cut short.</p>
+
+<p>On a signal from <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> at 3 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>, <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>,
+<span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, and <span class='ships'>Pearl</span> weighed, and formed into line. All
+the foreign men-of-war manned rigging and cheered.
+The <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> had just fired a parting salute to Sir
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[297]</span>Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a
+royal salute, returned by <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>. The American
+Admiral gave me a parting salute, which <span class='ships'>Ocean</span>
+returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed
+with flags, and a large American steamer, with a
+greater part of the community and <span class='ships'>Delaware’s</span>
+band on board, accompanied our little squadron,
+led by <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>. After standing down the bay
+some miles at half-speed, the American steamer
+<span class='ships'>Nautilus</span> passed up the line with many ladies on
+board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes
+fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who
+would so cordially co-operate with him. Our friendship
+was of long standing; his friendly grasp at
+parting was touching! I met him first when he was
+a boy, and I commanded <span class='ships'>Dido</span> in 1842. In 1858,
+he wrote—“Oh for a Keppel, just for one month.”</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’
+monument unveiled in St. Paul’s Cathedral.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[298]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CIII">
+    CHAPTER CIII
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Peking</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Kobe,
+Sept.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>Anchored off Kobe (<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>), intending to go to
+Osaka in <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> on the morrow. Consul Enslie
+and the Governor of Hiogo visited the Duke of Edinburgh
+on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> firing the Consul’s
+salute, <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> the Governor’s. Nothing could be
+more civil and attentive than all concerned were.
+Messenger sent to Osaka to prepare for the royal
+visitor: the Mikado’s residence placed at H.R.H.’s
+disposal. We landed and walked to the waterfall,
+where we found a guard and refreshment. The
+Prince much pleased with the scenery, he and
+Stanhope dining with us afterwards.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Osaka,
+Sept.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Although the Sabbath, our time would not allow
+the deferring the visit to Osaka. The Prince and
+party were early on board, and by seven we were
+under way, with <span class='ships'>Galatea’s</span> steam-launch in tow.
+On anchoring off the bar we were immediately visited
+by the officials, placing a state and other government
+boats at the Prince’s disposal; the Governor coming
+off, but the tide falling, we were transferred to the
+Mikado’s magnificent state-boat.</p>
+
+<p>Before entering the river a royal salute was fired
+from the battery. At the settlement the Prince was
+received with a guard, and every possible respect.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span>The houses closed by order on both sides: a mark of
+respect with which the Prince would rather have
+dispensed. Consul Gower had lunch ready, after
+which the Prince was taken, much against his will,
+sight-seeing; they rode to the castle and elsewhere.
+After another feed, returned to dinner on board
+<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Just before reaching the anchorage, with position
+lights up and everything proper, we were most
+wickedly run into by a small iron Jap steamer,
+smashing the secretary’s dispatch-boat and our port
+spare-spar. Herself unhurt, beyond loss of bowsprit
+and spring of fore-masthead.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;20.</div>
+
+<p>Damage done by Japanese steamer prevented
+sailing early. Carpenters of ships on board to clear
+away wreck. At 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we weighed. Heard the
+last of old <span class='ships'>Rodney’s</span> band playing, “Cheer, boys,
+cheer!” as the crew mounted the rigging to the very
+trenches to give their departing old Chief three times
+three hearty cheers. <span class='ships'>Ocean</span> making signal “Farewell,”
+we led <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> through the Osaka Straits,
+intending to anchor for the night to the southward
+of the rock, our leadsmen on the paddle-boxes
+showing depth of water.</p>
+
+<p>However, in rounding to <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> took the ground.
+I joined H.R.H. on the bridge, not with the idea of
+interfering, but I wished to see him get his own
+ship off.</p>
+
+<p>His first idea was to send the lighter boats to
+sound in every direction. The shallowest water was
+that on which the ship had grounded. The boom-boats
+were got into the water: bower anchors prepared
+for laying out. I remarked that the B.B., hanging
+from the cathead, looked heavy. H.R.H., referring
+to his small watch bill book, had noted the exact
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span>weight and size of every spar, anchor, and boat on
+board. I asked no more questions.</p>
+
+<p>The B.B. anchor, with hemp cable, was laid
+out astern, the end passed through port side of
+the captain’s cabin, brought to the capstan and
+hove taut. I was wondering what H.R.H. would
+do next, when I heard the message to the engine
+room, “Go ahead full speed.” I wondered, as I
+believe others did. In less than five minutes the cable
+astern slackened, capstan bars manned: she was afloat.
+I inquired of H.R.H. what made him first go ahead!
+He had ascertained that his ship was on the hard
+sandbank. He knew the vast power of the screw
+propeller would dissolve the edge of the sand—the
+rest followed.</p>
+
+<p>The old sailor of sixty had learned something
+from the young steamer of twenty-five. We enjoyed
+an excellent dinner on the starboard side of His Royal
+Highness’s cabin. Weighed.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>We anchored for the night in the bay to eastward
+and northward of Kosii Island.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Our run to-day was for the Simonesaki Straits.
+<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, not being over handy with her port helm,
+we came to in Witshed Bay, opposite the city, to
+wait for slack water the following morning.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Lovely weather; having led <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> through the
+remainder of the straits, made signal to part company
+and rendezvous Nagasaki, we taking the short cut to
+the westward, while she took the route to the northward
+of Ai Sima. During the afternoon we passed
+through that beautiful passage, anchoring at sunset in
+the snug little harbour of Kigatsu.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Nagasaki,
+Sept.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>Weighed just before daylight and entered the
+lovely harbour of Nagasaki. Here we found <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>,
+<span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>, <span class='ships'>Dwarf</span>, Commander C.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[301]</span>Walker, and <span class='ships'>Havoc</span>, merchant ship, dressed with
+flags to do honour to the Prince. I soon made
+arrangements with Mr. Consul Flowers, that as the
+<span class='ships'>Galatea</span> was coaling both sides, and guns run in, no
+salute could be fired, and cut out work for the
+morrow. H.R.H. received Governor, then an
+address from British residents. At 2.30 the Prince
+will lunch with the Consul and will return the
+Governor’s call, after which, I think, he will have
+had enough! Mr. Medhurst being here, expressed
+the great disappointment there would be caused by
+His Royal Highness passing Shanghai without visiting
+that model settlement.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>Royal standard hoisted on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> at 8
+<span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> At 9 inspected <span class='ships'>Dwarf</span>; another pattern of
+cleanliness and order, such as, we flatter ourselves, is
+not attained by any other nation or station. Took
+the wife afterwards to visit Alt’s house, where Algie
+Heneage and I were so kindly nursed, where on
+different occasions we were really ill. We also went
+over the grounds of Glover’s pretty place, where
+poor George Fitzroy died last year.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the wife with the Medhursts at the Belle
+Vue Hotel, where the children already were—enjoying
+conjurer’s tricks—went on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to
+assist the Prince in entertaining the Governor, then
+the Foreign Consuls, after them a deputation from
+the British community; after which the Prince left
+under a salute, ships present manning yards and
+masthead flags up.</p>
+
+<p>After a sumptuous luncheon with Consul and
+Mrs. Flowers, embarked, and landed higher up to
+return Governor’s visit, which we did, preceded by
+Jap guard with drums. Returned on board to a
+quiet dinner.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span></p>
+
+<p>Having witnessed some of the prettiest illuminations
+that can be imagined, the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> twice lighted
+up with red, white, and blue from her yard-arms
+and row of ports, we proceeded to the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>,
+where the wife and my “only daughter” had preceded
+us, leaving Colin to the care of Webb.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the Prince had heard of the above
+arrangement, he proposed dividing his staff and friends
+intended for the trip to Peking between <span class='ships'>Adventure</span>
+and ourselves, leaving <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to complete coal and
+follow us at her leisure to Chefoo under sail.
+Elliot Yorke and Chevalier, the artist, and Mr.
+Porter, who had kindly undertaken to prepare the
+way to Peking for the Prince and party, went in the
+<span class='ships'>Adventure</span>.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p><i>Sabbath.</i>—By 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> <span class='ships'>Icarus</span> had started under
+sail, <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> following, ready to give a tug across.
+On board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to breakfast. Inspection below,
+and Divine Service, which with fair singing appeared
+to be well conducted. Took a stroll through the
+porcelain shops, which do not hold with the Chinese,
+although the Japs excel in lacquer ware.</p>
+
+<p>Took an early dinner with the Prince, he having a
+shore appointment. Stanhope and I paid the Flowers
+a farewell visit. The Mikado had sent a few small
+presents to the Prince, and to me a jar of saki!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>It was 2.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before I got my passengers, consisting
+of the Prince, Stanhope, Haig, and Lord
+Charles Beresford on board. Weighed and stood
+out, cheered by <span class='ships'>Dwarf</span> and several merchant ships.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Chefoo,
+Sept.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Came to, 2 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> Found <span class='ships'>Icarus</span>. Elliot Yorke
+had gone in <span class='ships'>Opossum</span>, leaving me and Mons.
+Chevalier.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Miller under way before daylight. Charles Scott
+joined our party.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peiho
+River,
+Oct.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Daylight found us off the bar, Peiho River, with
+the pilot, Mr. Band, coming alongside. Pronounced
+the bar passable at 10, when we forced her through
+the mud, Mr. Band going ahead full speed. At
+the usual place we came in contact with a tier of
+junks, but having left most of our boats behind,
+purposely, at Chefoo, we escaped with a broken
+gunnel, losing a small kedge anchor, and bent davits;
+Mr. Band consoling himself with a glass of grog.</p>
+
+<p>The consternation among the boats as the wave
+caused by our speed lifted them on to the banks, and
+occasionally washed a looker-on off his legs, was
+rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good
+repair, and the pilot reports some heavy American
+guns being got into position: the coolies at work
+stating that in one year’s time they will be prepared
+to rid themselves of us barbarians!</p>
+
+<p>It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it
+being within a day or two of the races, the promised
+horses of Mr. Porter were not forthcoming, but the
+boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready,
+and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we
+should start that evening after dinner.</p>
+
+<p>A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy
+of the <cite>Overland Express</cite>, by which it appears that
+my successor and his staff had left England on
+August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could
+not help being glad at Kellett’s recovery.</p>
+
+<p>The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably
+fitted for sleeping; then we have a messing
+boat, a cooking boat, and one for the servants.
+Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including
+Chow-Wang the mandarin, who has always accompanied
+me. We are eleven boats; each bearing a
+small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peiho
+River,
+Oct.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of,
+the only consolation being that the tracking coolies
+might have been employed in a less congenial way.
+They have no weekly rest-day.</p>
+
+<p>Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything
+is pronounced to be an impostor, and Mandarin
+Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However,
+Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken
+do their best; the great difficulty being to keep the
+boats together, that with the provisions being always
+out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and onions
+to be purchased at the villages. The water is too
+muddy even to wash in.</p>
+
+<p>A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much
+dust, books and papers curling up; preferable to
+wet and damp though!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;5.</div>
+
+<p>Still moving up the river; but our progress has
+been slow owing to the difficulty of keeping so large
+a number of boats together. However, all seem
+jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our
+good-natured Prince, whom every one delights in.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town,
+we found that good fellow Conolly, who had come to
+meet us from the Legation, bringing me a letter
+from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty
+welcome.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have been more absurd than the
+plan laid down for so large a party by our self-appointed
+adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial
+Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and
+splendid weather of September is all well enough
+for one or two, but he undertook to mount our
+nine selves, four European servants, and convey
+luggage, to do which he proceeded from Nagasaki on
+board the <span class='ships'>Adventure</span> in advance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span></p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Tientsin found no horses, he
+having calculated on the kindness of a good-natured
+European community to mount us. Nor could the
+Legation provide horses sufficient for our party
+more than half-way. Here we are at the close of the
+third day without a prospect of doing more than get
+to Tung-Chow with every preparation of boats made
+beforehand. The Prince cooked for us a wonderful
+omelette, 200 eggs and other things in it, for
+breakfast.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_305'>
+  <img class='v100' src='images/i_305.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>The Prince who made the Omelette.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[306]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peking.
+Oct. 6.</div>
+
+<p>Soon after daylight our flotilla had all arrived
+before 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> Sir Rutherford’s groom “William”
+put in an appearance with the stud, among which I
+recognised my old friend “Don Juan.” There were
+mounts for all, besides carts for luggage, etc. A
+pleasant two hours’ ride brought us to the Legation,
+where the Prince received a sincere and respectful
+but hearty welcome. Lady Alcock quite recovered,
+and Miss Lowder looking as charming as ever. We
+breakfasted soon after 12, while outside were collected
+the usual bazaar of curios, furs, etc., much
+to the amusement of our party, who, including
+H.R.H., were like children at a fair. Our party
+was so large that the Attachés took a part to dine
+with them. The chaplain, Mr. Burden, and his wife
+dined with the big ones.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>The bazaar reopened before breakfast, H.R.H.
+investing considerably. The Russian Minister and
+the French and Prussian Chargés d’Affaires came to
+meet the Prince at the convivial morning meal;
+better than a formal presentation, His Royal Highness
+being entirely <i lang='la'>incog.</i></p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon Conolly, H.R.H., and I rode into
+Curio Street, where I was induced to join in a lot
+together, my choice being a beautiful Chinese jar, the
+likes of which I have not before seen. Other things
+too were bid for which may yet find their way here.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Legation,
+Peking,
+Oct.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Quarters here very comfortable; a nice little
+early breakfast of good bread and butter, tea, and eggs
+brought to your room. As H.R.H. amuses himself
+until the small hours at bowls, I thought I might dawdle
+too, but about 9 I got an invitation to accompany him
+to Curio Street. Had a chat with Sir Rutherford this
+morning on China affairs, and found that he lamented
+the present policy of our rulers at home, and had clearly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span>pointed out the dangers, if persisted in, of our drifting
+into another war. He showed me the copy of
+a letter Lord Clarendon had found it necessary to
+address to Mr. Burlingham, late American Minister,
+pointing out how different is the statement of the
+Chinese Ambassador (that the Chinese Government
+were for advancement) from the real facts, by which it
+appears that nothing is farther from their intentions,
+and that therefore Lord Clarendon should consider his
+present policy an experimental one only. By which
+it seems to me their eyes are reluctantly being opened
+after the dust thrown in them by the Minister,
+Burlingham.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>H.R.H. and party have gone sight-seeing and to a
+luncheon in the Palace grounds provided by Sir
+Rutherford Alcock. We dine each day fourteen,
+the younger ones taking turns to dine at the
+Secretaries’ mess. We move from table after the
+first glass of wine, followed by coffee and cigars,
+the Prince going to his favourite bowls, and we old
+ones, as well as a few younger, attracted by the fair
+Miss Lowder to sixpenny pool.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Peking,
+Oct.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p><i>Sabbath.</i>—After attending church, different parties
+had different ways of amusing themselves. H.R.H.,
+to whom it was a novelty, partook of a regular
+Chinese feast—bird’s-nest soup, eggs that had been
+kept a hundred years or longer, shark’s fins, etc.
+Most of us went into the attractive shops of Curio
+Street.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>Obliged to turn out betimes to enable servants to
+pack and start the many carts that ought to reach
+Usung before us. Until the last moment the vendors
+of curios flocked in and displayed their tempting
+articles.</p>
+
+<p>At 2.30, after an excellent luncheon, we were
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[308]</span>once more on the Legation horses, and bade adieu to
+our kind and hospitable host and hostess, with their
+pretty daughter, on whose horse, “Snowball,” the light
+Admiral was mounted, H.R.H. riding my old friend
+“Don Juan,” Conolly and Baker accompanying us. It
+was sunset before we were all embarked with our goods
+and chattels, and an hour later before we were clear
+of the numerous trading junks that jammed the creek,
+which gave time for Conolly and Baker to dine with
+us. Conolly had, of course, delighted everybody,
+while nothing could have been more obliging than
+both as interpreters.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;13.</div>
+
+<p>H.R.H. cooked his dish of eggs, after which we
+resumed whist. A fortunate turn in my luck; got up
+winner of the expedition of 140 points, some of it
+going towards curios. Having dined comfortably,
+8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> brought us alongside <span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, H.R.H. going
+on shore to bowls, having first arranged to wait over
+the morrow.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Chow-Wang put in an appearance early, which
+looked like a settling of accounts, and certain
+difficulties about them were suddenly solved by
+H.R.H. insisting on paying the whole of the
+expenses of our expedition, left dollars with the Consul
+to be returned to Mr. Porter.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Tientsin.</div>
+
+<p>We found at Tientsin letters from Chefoo. The
+Shanghai community regretting that circumstances
+and want of time prevented their proving separately
+their appreciation of my services in the Far East,
+invited the wife and self to a grand ball. H.R.H.,
+Stanhope, and self mounted donkeys and rode to the
+town. The Prince had selected eight from the Navy
+and challenged the shore at bowls. They met at
+9 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>It was four o’clock before our Prince came on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span>board this morning; they had a spirited and hardly-contested
+game, the shore, however, beating the Navy
+five successive games, His Royal Highness backing
+his side until he had lost nearly four hundred dollars.
+Then he pluckily challenged them to double or quits,
+which he won. A long steamer, the <span class='ships'>Chili</span>, ahead,
+was about to start for Shanghai as soon as we were
+out of the way. Wrote by her, thanking the
+community for their kind appreciation of my services,
+and regretting my inability, owing to orders from
+the present Board of Admiralty, to accept their
+kind invitation. At. 1.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> weighed and steamed
+down the Peiho for the third and last time.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;16.</div>
+
+<p>In steaming yesterday we met an American
+steamer with the French naval Commander-in-Chief
+on board. He was probably going to consult with
+his Minister as to the best means for obtaining redress,
+a French missionary having lately been beaten
+to death, another proof, if any were wanting, of Mr.
+Burlingham’s policy. Our commercial treaties have
+been forced on these Orientals, and by force only can
+we make them respected, or even retain a footing in
+the country.</p>
+
+<p>With history and centuries of experience before
+them, our Ministers are imposed upon by a highly
+paid American adventurer and made to believe
+that the Chinese people only require civilised
+treatment to receive and welcome us all over the
+Celestial Empire, whereas their rotten and ignorant
+Government are only plotting to get rid for ever of
+the hated barbarian.</p>
+
+<p>While looking out of the window during my toilet
+saw a well-dressed China woman stumping along on
+her poor contracted feet with her hands clasped and
+extended, shrieking and repeating some word. She
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span>suddenly turned towards the river, making a wonderful
+good run, and tried to plunge in. The water
+being low she stuck in the mud, when a man and
+woman went to the rescue and drew her on the bank,
+where she lay kicking her shapeless feet up until we
+passed out of sight; poor creature! I suppose they
+have their fits of jealousy as well as we barbarians.</p>
+
+<p>The tide not being high enough on the bar we
+anchored, which gave us an opportunity to inspect the
+Taku Forts—which we shall have to occupy some day.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;18.</div>
+
+<p>At 10 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> went to inspect the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, where I
+was received with manned yards and all due honours.
+Found her beautifully clean, and in all respects a
+man-of-war. There is no doubt H.R.H. is fully
+captain of his own ship; without an efficient head she
+could not be what she is. Ship’s company below the
+average as fine-looking men, but as clean as seamen
+who wear beards and moustaches are likely to be.</p>
+
+<p>His Royal Highness came on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> to take
+leave of the wife. Old Raby, with his good-natured,
+comical face, took leave of me on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>. On
+parting company <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> and <span class='ships'>Icarus</span> gave three
+hearty cheers from the rigging. Proceeded to
+Hong Kong.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CIV">
+    CHAPTER CIV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Homeward Bound</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Hong
+Kong.
+Flag in
+<span class='ships'>Salamis</span>,
+Oct.&nbsp;23.</div>
+
+<p>Came to in Hong Kong. Vice-Admiral Sir H.
+Kellett, my successor, the Commodore, and other
+commanders came on board. Keswick, of Jardine,
+Mathieson and Co., came inviting me to East Point.
+Wife and children had gone there in steam launch.
+Called on Governor, taking Lady MacDonnell a
+pair of pet china jars from Peking: one of which
+their orderly sergeant managed to smash in unpacking.
+Called on General Whitfield, who was confined
+to bed. He had sent his aide-de-camp and staff
+on board <span class='ships'>Salamis</span> on our arrival. We were kindly
+welcomed at East Point. The same evening there
+was a croquet party; Maginac in his glory. Besides
+the Grants of 9th Native Infantry and the O’Shaugnessys
+of staff, Gower and Robertson from Canton
+met us at dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Great preparations for the reception of the Duke
+of Edinburgh.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;24.</div>
+
+<p>To church in the Jardine carriage. I had issued
+a memo to the squadron yesterday that I should give
+up the command this morning. Friday fixed for my
+entertainment by kind Hong Kong friends. Sorry
+to hear of the death of kind friend Mrs. Gilman.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Our hosts got up an agreeable party at Pokofolum:
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span>Alexanders, Grants, Pollards, Overbeck, and others.
+Drove back by moonlight.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Dined with Overbeck. Large party.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>The day of my entertainment. Cannot get the
+idea of a speech out of my head.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>It came off at last—a flattering event, enough to
+turn my old head, Governor and all great people
+attending. My reception kind and enthusiastic.
+The continued cheering tended to give me nerve.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Daily papers called it “the greatest and most
+successful entertainment that had ever been given in
+Hong Kong.” Dined with the Commodore; one
+of his good and cheery dinners. Admiral and Commanders
+present. Believe I part in harmony with all.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sabbath,
+Oct.&nbsp;31.</div>
+
+<p>At 7.30 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> was at anchor in the harbour
+and galley on shore. Should have been on board by
+9, but His Royal Highness had already visited the
+Commander-in-Chief and made arrangements for
+landing in state on the morrow; but on my pointing
+out how much more convenient it would be if His
+Royal Highness would defer his landing until after
+departure of the mail on Tuesday, he acceeded to
+this, as he has done to every proposition I have ever
+thought it right to make. His Royal Highness
+received me so nicely, with all the warmth peculiar to
+his nature, yet never seeming to forget that I was,
+or had been his Commander-in-Chief. It was
+arranged that he was to call on, and lunch with the
+Governor at 1.30, and dine there in the evening,
+returning to <span class='ships'>Galatea</span> to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>As the morrow would be my last in Hong Kong,
+the Duke kindly proposed that self and wife should
+take a farewell dinner with him; but on my stating
+the distance of East Point, and the early rising on the
+Tuesday to go back to the mail steamer, he kindly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[313]</span>accepted an invitation to dine with Keswick, which
+would greatly please our worthy host.</p>
+
+<p>Returned to East Point in time to go with wife
+to church. Received the sacrament—my last in
+China. At the close of the service, Buckle, the
+Governor’s A.D.C., came to our pew to invite us to
+meet the Prince at luncheon.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Much to do at the last. Took a farewell luncheon
+on board <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, meeting the Admiral and Commodore.
+His Royal Highness gave me a copy of the
+<span class='ships'>Galatea’s</span> voyage to Australia. Under my name on
+the title page he wrote “from his affectionate
+admirer.”</p>
+
+<p>The dinner at East Point was a complete success.
+In addition to His Royal Highness and suite were
+the Heards, Keswick’s <i lang='fr'>fiancé</i>, Miss de Bourg, Kellett,
+Miller, Smith from Government House, Robertson,
+etc. This was the great night of illuminations. We
+were invited to see it from the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, but the guide
+took His Royal Highness and ourselves to the wrong
+landing-place; we missed the chairs and got into a
+procession of illuminated fish of gigantic size. And
+the Duke mounted with my wife up a ladder into
+a small Chinese theatre, which he naturally concluded
+from its gaudy decoration and commanding position
+must have been intended for himself. At midnight
+the party dispersed, but His Royal Highness insisted
+on steering his barge with the old Admiral and his
+wife back to East Point.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Now comes the end of my naval career in China,
+where the greater part of my services for the last
+twenty-seven years have been so pleasantly passed,
+but everything must come to an end.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_314'>
+  <img class='v100' src='images/i_314.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>“The Little Admiral” (Hong Kong “<cite>Punch</cite>”).</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>I had bespoke the steam-launch to take luggage
+and selves on board the P. and O. steamer, but one
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[314]</span>and all appeared determined to do me honour to the
+last. Although my uniforms had long since been
+packed, I was to embark from the Government wharf
+under a salute and with a guard of honour. At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>
+the royal standard was hoisted on board the <span class='ships'>Galatea</span>,
+and a general royal salute, with ships dressed, took
+place. I passed the guard, with Colin clinging
+to my hand. At the pier we found all the Government
+officials in full costume to bid farewell to the
+little old Admiral, rigged out in his Norfolk shirt and
+“Rodney” hat, and instead of his galley there were
+the <span class='ships'>Galatea’s</span> barge and cutter—the former manned
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[315]</span>by His Royal Highness and ward-room officers, and
+steered by the Commodore, to take me off; while the
+latter was manned by the gun-room officers to take
+the wife and children. Colin, however, refusing to
+quit his hold of me, partook of the honour of being
+so conveyed. Never was such a demonstration,
+such a triumph, for an Admiral degraded! On
+board, too, I met all my old friends. There was
+the kind-hearted Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell,
+with a photograph for my wife of the house in
+which, not a year ago, Colin was so near his end;
+Overbeck and old Fischer’s son; honest old Henry
+Kellett, my successor; the hospitable Commodore,
+and the Prince, in rowing costume, with his crew,
+fourteen in number. His Royal Highness came into
+my cabin on deck, and there, in the quietest way,
+presented me with a gold watch as a souvenir,
+which he said would do afterwards for Colin, who
+seized the case containing the watch and insisted
+that it had been given to him! I, however, have
+never been without it.</p>
+
+<p>On shoving off, the Prince and his crew gave
+three more parting cheers. The <span class='ships'>Salsette</span> screwed
+ahead to the eastward, and having gained room
+turned round, passing again through the ships, when
+the cheering was repeated: foreigners, as well as our
+own men-of-war; even the invalids from the
+hospital-ships caught the kind infection. This old
+party then retired, feeling very grateful and his heart
+full.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CV">
+    CHAPTER CV
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Last Visit to the Straits</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Singapore,
+Nov.&nbsp;7.</div>
+
+<p>It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit,
+although a farewell one, to the Straits Settlements.
+Just after sunset, as the P. and O. <span class='ships'>Salsette</span> entered
+New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed
+through the mist—the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> on her way home. In
+less than half an hour I was at dinner with Algie
+Heneage. They had, as might have been expected,
+a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the
+sapient instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to
+use steam unless in case of danger. The extra time
+and pay of the crew would be more than expense
+of fuel.</p>
+
+<p>Both Governor and Judge had made preparations
+to receive us, and had sent their carriages. It was
+arranged, as the steamer would go alongside the
+P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land
+there more conveniently, when the wife and children
+should go to Sir Benson and Lady Maxwell, and I to
+Sir Harry and Lady Ord.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>As the <span class='ships'>Salsette</span> hauled alongside the coaling pier, I
+saw my old friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a
+deputation who had come to invite me, on the part
+of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow.
+Large dinner at Government House—a palace.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[317]</span>Whampoa there. He gave me a pair of cassowaries
+to add to the museum on board <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, also some
+pigs to establish a breed at Bishopstoke!</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>Had intended to have paid a visit to the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>,
+but continued rain set in, which lasted till it was time
+to start for the entertainment, which took place in the
+P. and O. Office building. His Excellency kindly
+drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with
+flags and flowers, while on the walls were the names
+in large letters, formed with flowers, of the ships I had
+served in on the station. Beginning with <span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>,
+in which I was a Lieutenant, there came in succession,
+<span class='ships'>Dido</span>, <span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, finishing with the old
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> (now without flag flying). The chair was
+occupied by my old friend W. H. Read, with Sir
+Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his left. The
+tables were full; the guest of the day received with
+cheers! The chairman came at once to the toast
+which had brought them together, and went into a
+long detail of the ships in which I had served and
+commanded on this station, beginning with <span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>.
+A laugh was raised when he alluded to
+the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of
+his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the
+<span class='ships'>Dido</span>. I remember her well, with her taunt spars,
+sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful hull,
+dashing about the station in every direction, and
+always in for a fight when one was to be had.—The
+<span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, with Sir James Brooke; his merits
+recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here.
+The <span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed
+into this beautiful harbour from the westward to
+show his confidence in its safety, and the wisdom of
+the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them
+of its existence in 1849.—Fatshan, ‘the smartest
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[318]</span>cutting-out affair of modern times.’ Last comes
+the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, of which vessel I can only say we have
+seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong
+Kong and Yokohama: he never undertook what he
+did not carry out, and a better passport to posterity
+after such a stirring life no man need possess.”</p>
+
+<p>Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink
+“Long life and prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with
+three times three—and don’t be afraid of bringing the
+roof down!”</p>
+
+<p>Got through the returning of thanks with what
+composure I could muster before so many good old
+friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech
+about the wife and children, which was warmly received,
+and to which I did my best to respond. The
+meeting, which was a great success, broke up only in
+time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer
+was from the last of that noble class of ships, the
+<span class='ships'>Rodney</span>. Friends had collected on the P. and O.
+wharf to give us “one cheer more.”</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Penang,
+Nov.&nbsp;11.</div>
+
+<p>At 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we anchored off Penang, my kind old
+friend Lewis the first on board to welcome me; also
+a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us to pass the
+few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining
+for six hours, we had only time to make a
+hurried call on the Lewises before going on board.
+Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu,
+Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China!</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Galle,
+Nov.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle
+Harbour, but an open and dangerous anchorage.
+Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We
+found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers,
+the <span class='ships'>Surat</span> being told off to take the passengers to
+Suez. <span class='ships'>Surat</span> the same I came out in near three
+years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[319]</span>command, having lodged his ship on a reef in the
+Red Sea, from which she had a narrow escape.</p>
+
+<p>Keppel Garnier went at once on board the <span class='ships'>Surat</span>
+to see about berths, while Risk went on shore to see
+if we could not have
+possession of what
+is called “Queen’s
+House,” the original
+residence of the Dutch
+Governors, who
+thoroughly understood
+comfort. It was
+noon before he returned,
+it having been
+necessary to telegraph
+to the Governor, Sir
+Hercules Robinson,
+at Colombo, for permission;
+the reply
+being, “Certainly, if
+not occupied by Lady
+Napier.” Lady
+Napier was on her
+way to join her husband
+in Calcutta, and
+sailed shortly after our arrival in the harbour.
+Our steamer was to start again at 5 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> for Suez,
+but it was a pleasant change for the children and
+ourselves, if only for a few hours.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_319'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_319.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Jack Rodyk.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>We had no sooner taken possession than the house
+was inundated with venders of all sorts—curios, inlaid
+workboxes, and desks of antique fashion, carved
+elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs,
+porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a
+dirty native, who called himself “Stony Merchant,”
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span>whose goods we were informed were all manufactured
+in Birmingham.</p>
+
+<p>Of course the children wanted everything. Colin
+got the model of a native boat, May an ebony
+elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory ones,
+which were removed from the sitting-room table while
+we were at dinner, most probably by the man to whom
+I had paid fifteen shillings for them. We enjoyed a
+fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an
+enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch
+Governors of former days, but Vrouws and families!
+Among the callers was Wodehouse of the Civil
+Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that
+numerous family are. The harbour-master conducted
+us on board the Government boat.</p>
+
+<p>It was dark, but it did not require much light to
+find that the deck was covered with some thirty or
+forty children, varying from the age of six downwards.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Coaled at Aden.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Suez,
+Dec.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Suez.—The <span class='ships'>Surat</span> was the first of the P. and O.
+steamers that landed her passengers alongside the
+wharf close to the new dock. A train took us to the
+hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel,
+with Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham.
+We had a walk and talk with them.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>The train took us off at 8 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> without giving us a
+chance of seeing anything of the canal or country.
+After fourteen hours’ suffering we got out of the train
+and embarked in a small steamer close by, which conveyed
+us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so
+home.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_CVI">
+    CHAPTER CVI
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='chap-title'><span class="smcap">Some Farewell Notes</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1869.
+Dec. 14.</div>
+
+<p>My apprehensions about my poor friend, Vice-Admiral
+George Henry Seymour, were realized. Nearly the
+first news on our arrival was that of his sad and
+untimely death. He had early dropped the name of
+George, as it was that of his respected parent, the
+good Admiral of the Fleet, Sir George H. Seymour,
+G.C.B., to whose residence in Eaton Square I hastened,
+and was received as the oldest friend of his beloved
+child. There was a letter addressed to me on the table
+with touching details, which I will not reproduce in its
+entirety. Henry was at the time of his death a Lord
+of the Admiralty and Member for Antrim. The
+following are extracts from his father’s letter:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'>
+  <span class="smcap">Eaton Square</span>, <i>December 22, 1869</i>.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">My dear Keppel</span>—From the long and sincere friendship
+which existed between my dear Henry and yourself, I
+feel certain that no one will have felt a sharper pang than
+yourself when you heard of his untimely death.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sir George Seymour in the conclusion of a deeply
+interesting letter, adds:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>You have many friends, but never possessed a more
+sincere one than he was to you.</p>
+
+<p>He marked it on the very day of his death, when his
+eyes flashed on seeing some one approach him; he thought it
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[322]</span>was you, and holding out his hand, with a faint smile as he
+did so, mentioned your name. He expired on July 24.</p>
+
+<p>As a faint hope, he had joined his sister, Mrs. Gore, at
+Carlsbad, and Her Majesty, with her usual thought and
+kindness, had sent Sir William Jenner and Dr. Ellice;
+they pronounced the case hopeless.... Very sincerely
+yours,</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr1'>
+  (Signed) <span class="smcap">G. H. Seymour</span>.
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Gunton
+Park,
+Jan.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>In compliance with kind invitation from the
+Prince of Wales, find myself at Gunton Park. The
+Princess as charming as ever, but not improved by
+the new fashion in hairdressing. Took Her Royal
+Highness in to dinner. Whist afterwards.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Arrangements very pleasant. A cup of tea and
+slice of bread and butter on being called. Breakfast
+when you like at small tables. Church within a
+hundred yards; singing good and sermon short.
+The young Princes, Edward and George, dined
+while we lunched. Informed the Prince that I was
+writing to the Duke of Edinburgh. Was sent for
+into the Princess of Wales’ boudoir; the Royal
+children romping while the Princess carried the
+baby. The Prince was there. Altogether a charming
+picture.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>It was 7.30 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> before the fresh company arrived.
+On going into the drawing-room the most conspicuous
+and handsome (the Princess had not come
+down) was the Duchess of Manchester with seven
+rows of pearls, scarcely whiter than the fair neck
+they were on. Old Lady Ailesbury, as young as
+ever, the same flaxen hair, frizzed out. Lady de
+Grey looking very piquant. They all went into
+the shade when the Princess put in an appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Among the men, H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge,
+but little altered; Lord de Grey, Lord Hartington,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[323]</span>Duke of Manchester, Lord Huntingfield, Jim Macdonald,
+with his silky white hair; young Lord
+Dupplin, Oliver Montagu, grown out of all remembrance,
+and young Knollys. We were twenty
+to dinner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;4.</div>
+
+<p>The Royal brake and another open carriage took
+us to the shooting ground, where we had driving
+partridges until luncheon, which was hot and good,
+in a farmhouse; after that, covert shooting. The
+Princess and ladies came out after luncheon.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_323'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_323.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Last of the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, 1884.<a id="FNanchor_5_5" href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></figcaption>
+
+</figure>
+
+<div class='footnotes'>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_5_5" href="#FNanchor_5_5" class="label">[5]</a> This picture of the <span class='ships'>Rodney</span> was given me by Mr. Emmanuel Emmanuel of
+The Hard, in whose possession is the original oil painting.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='mt1'><span class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;5.</span>
+Rainy and dull morning; much chaffing and good-temper
+among the ladies. Lady Ailesbury in distress
+for a newspaper, which young Oliver Montagu provided
+on condition of a kiss. The good-natured
+Prince, seeing me in a new great-coat, made me take
+his and save my own. Luncheon in a farmhouse. The
+following days were passed in the same happy manner.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Jan.&nbsp;10.</div>
+
+<p>With rest of company took my departure. A happy
+visit not to be forgotten for many reasons.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[324]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Portsmouth.—<span class='ships'>Rodney</span> only paid off this morning.
+In perfect order to the last. Some £12,000 paid to
+blue-jackets and marines.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>The following letter reached me:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<div class='address'>
+<p class='center'><span class="smcap">40 Dover Street, W.</span>,</p>
+<p class='center'><i>May 31, 1870</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'><span class="smcap">Dear Sir Henry</span>—The University of Oxford propose to
+confer upon you, if it should be agreeable to you to receive
+it, an honorary degree at the approaching Commemoration,
+in recognition of your distinguished services to the country
+as a naval officer. It is very pleasant to me to be associated
+as Chancellor in this expression of their respect. If you
+should accept the degree, it will be necessary that you
+should be present in the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford on
+Wednesday, June 22. The ceremony will be over by one
+o’clock.—Believe me yours very truly,</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right pr1'>(Signed) <span class="smcap">Salisbury</span>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='cb'>Sir H. Keppel, K.C.B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;21.</div>
+
+<p>By 2.20 train to Oxford. Wife and Georgie West
+in lodgings at Muir’s in High Street, I to Richard’s
+snug quarters in Christchurch. The good Tom
+Garnier, Fellow of All Souls, undertaking to provide
+for our party at his rooms. Dined with the Vice-Chancellor
+Leighton in the magnificent library of
+All Souls, meeting Lord Salisbury, Bishops, Judges,
+Canons, Ex-Ministers, and all those about to be
+made D.C.L.’s. Excellent dinner and some good
+speeches.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;22.</div>
+
+<p>Accoutred in full uniform, surmounted by a
+college cap, and a doctor’s crimson silk hood and
+cloth robe. Assembled, according to arrangements
+published in the <cite>Oxford Gazette</cite>, in the Library of All
+Souls, thence to the Sheldonian Theatre.</p>
+
+<p>The Chancellor, heads of houses go in, leaving us
+who are about to receive the distinction outside until
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[325]</span>summoned. After waiting an hour and a half in the
+outer hall, we went in, single file, through a
+crowd, I following Robert Lowe. Cheering more or
+less loud announced the entrance of the forty
+candidates.</p>
+
+<p>Difficult to describe one’s sensation on entering
+this magnificent amphitheatre; rendered still more
+beautiful by tier above tier of lovely women,
+each armed with a bouquet, such as the season
+produces to perfection. Above the ladies, in an
+upper gallery, were the undergraduates, who loudly
+expressed their approval, or otherwise, of the different
+persons as they appeared below to receive the distinguished
+degree about to be conferred.</p>
+
+<p>In front of the entrance, on a throne raised to the
+level of the lower gallery, which contained the ladies,
+sat the Marquess of Salisbury, as Chancellor, at a desk;
+supported on either side by the great dignitaries, as
+well as by those who had preceded us and had
+already received the D.C.L.: an imposing sight.
+My place was next behind Lowe, Chancellor of the
+Exchequer.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached, an official announced in Latin
+who and what one was. This gave ample time to
+those who, like myself, felt nervous as to the
+mysteries of the whole affair, to look about them.
+An attempt was made by some of the undergraduates
+to cry down Mr. Lowe with “Non Placet,” which
+called forth corresponding cheers from his friends;
+the clamour and noise lasted some minutes.</p>
+
+<p>At last my turn arrived; name, rank, and performances
+were given out, as were those of my predecessors,
+in Latin. Loud and prolonged cheering.
+The Chancellor rose and addressed me in Latin, after
+which the bar was removed, I ascended the steps of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[326]</span>the throne, shook hands with Lord Salisbury and
+then took my seat with brother D.C.L.’s and held my
+tongue.</p>
+
+<p>Lunch, including ladies, at All Souls, then to the
+Floral Garden and excellent museums. Weather
+hot and thirsty, with plenty of cooling drinks.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1871.
+May&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>By to-day’s post received a flattering letter from
+Mr. Goschen, First Lord of the Admiralty, stating
+the gratification it was to him to have submitted my
+name for the G.C.B. I replied that his opinion was
+more gratifying than the distinguished decoration.</p>
+
+<p>To London. Went to the Queen’s Ball, and
+met many friends.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">London,
+July&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>Donned full dress uniform, without decorations;
+drove to Windsor Castle, where, after an excellent
+luncheon, I, succeeded by many others (being the
+Senior K.C.B.), was invested by Her Majesty with
+the order of the Grand Cross of the Bath—having
+first been knighted. At the time of receiving the
+K.C.B. got a dispensing order.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Sept.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Letter from the Duchess of Buccleuch, giving us
+the choice of a visit to Drumlanrig before or after an
+intended visit there of the Prince and Princess of
+Wales. Decided on going there the latter end of
+next month.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Drumlanrig,
+Oct.&nbsp;25.</div>
+
+<p>By train to Carlisle and thence to Thornhill,
+where we found the Duke’s carriage, which took us
+to the castle by a little after six. Nothing could
+have been nicer or kinder than our reception, company
+staying being nearly all connections. I took
+the Duchess in to dinner. Party consisting of
+Dalkeiths, Adolphus Liddell, son and two daughters,
+Walter Scotts, Egremont and Gerard Lascelles, and,
+as the <cite>Morning Post</cite> would say, “etc., etc.”</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;26.</div>
+
+<p>Party formed for the moors. Nine guns—Dalkeith,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[327]</span>Walter Scott, Adolphus Liddell and his son,
+two Lascelles, Colonel Thynne, who arrived last night,
+Johnson Douglas, and Mr. Maxwell. A bus conveyed
+us to foot of hills; four ponies for those who
+liked them took us two
+miles further to the
+grounds. A succession
+of hills covered with
+heather; with the exception
+of the hills
+near Thirlston, the first
+extensive moors I had
+been on. We drew lots
+for the numbers, which
+gave us the different
+enclosures, in which
+we hid while beaters
+drove: changing numbers
+after each drive. Lord and Lady Creighton
+arrived. Game return: Grouse, 137; Black and
+gray game, 8; Rabbits, 4. Total, 149.</p>
+
+<figure class='figleft' id='i_327'>
+  <img class='v50' src='images/i_327.jpg' alt=''>
+  <figcaption>Duke of Buccleuch.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Invitation from Mayor of Liverpool to attend
+dinner given to Sir Harry Parkes. Must accept, for
+November 6.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Rainy day. Started, a smaller party, on the moors;
+persevered until wet through, then walked five miles
+home. Shot better, and killed my first black-cock.</p>
+
+<p>After noon arrived Lord Claud Hamilton and
+Mr. R. Melville, a director of the P. and O. Co.
+Our usual whist in evening; party consisting of
+Lady Walter Scott, Lady Dalkeith, Adolphus Liddell
+and self.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Oct.&nbsp;29.</div>
+
+<p>Attended well-conducted service in chapel.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;2.</div>
+
+<p>Covert shooting without driving. A cheery
+bright day. Bag: Gray fowl, 6; Pheasant, 70;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[328]</span>Partridge, 7; Wood-cock, 3; Roe deer, 2; Hares,
+247; Rabbits, 66; Snipe, 1. Total, 402.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner, entrance hall cleared, and a piano
+dance, I commencing with the kind good Duchess,
+His Grace with my wife for partner. There were
+waltzes and reels. No people, old or young, could
+have enjoyed themselves as we did.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;3.</div>
+
+<p>The Duke kindly sending us to the station,
+made us promise to repeat our visit as often as we
+liked. By train <i lang='fr'>viâ</i> Carlisle to Liverpool, where the
+Mayor, Mr. Livingston, was waiting, and conveyed
+us to his country house.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Liverpool,
+Nov.&nbsp;6.</div>
+
+<p>The great event of my visit to Liverpool came off
+to-day. Mayor’s dinner to Sir Harry Parkes. Had
+to return thanks for Navy and self. Parkes spoke
+well, giving a review of affairs in Japan, from commencement
+of his appointment there to present time;
+very interesting. No one ever did more brilliant
+work in Japan than he did.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Nov.&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>Since the middle of the month grave reports of
+the health of the Prince of Wales were inserted in
+the papers. H.R.H. had been at Scarborough with
+Lord Londesborough. With him was Lord Chesterfield,
+who, simultaneously with the Prince and the
+groom, were attacked by typhoid fever; of the three,
+H.R.H. alone survived.</p>
+
+<p>Princess Alice had come over to spend his birthday
+with the Prince, and remained to help the
+Princess in nursing H.R.H., who had left London,
+in the early stage of his illness, for Sandringham.
+On the 30th I received a letter from the Duke of
+Edinburgh, at Sandringham, saying he was delighted
+to give better accounts of his brother. The Queen
+had just arrived at Sandringham.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dec.</div>
+
+<p>The news was better of H.R.H. up to the 11th
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[329]</span>December, when a relapse took place, and his state
+was considered critical. Constant delirium.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dec. 11,
+Journal.</div>
+
+<p>All hope supposed to be at an end. How sad
+for the nation; what a kind friend I lose.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;12.</div>
+
+<p>Uppermost in every person’s mind is the state of
+the Prince of Wales. Prayers in the churches for
+him, and for the Princess.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>Hopes revived by telegram of improved state of
+the Prince.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;15.</div>
+
+<p>Afternoon telegram confirming improving state
+of the Prince. Fatal 14th past.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;19.</div>
+
+<p>Continued improvement of H.R.H. Had a chat
+with the Duke of Edinburgh at Clarence House.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Dec.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>Wrote General Knollys, congratulations to Prince
+and Princess of Wales on recovery of H.R.H.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1872.
+London,
+Feb.&nbsp;17.</div>
+
+<p>Fully accoutred in uniform, and the G.C.B.
+collar, at an early hour to witness the grandest
+function that has been performed in the largest city
+of the world, friend Eyre taking me in his
+brougham. Not liking to risk being late gave up
+the sight of the route by Strand and Ludgate Hill,
+but took the less crowded road of new embankment.</p>
+
+<p>Seats allotted to the officers of the Navy being the
+north nave, St. Paul’s Cathedral, was in time to get in
+the front row and could hardly have been better placed
+to witness the touching scene of the Queen on the arm
+of the still limping Prince of Wales, closely attended
+by the young children and all the rest of the Royal
+Family. Both the Prince and Duke of Edinburgh
+recognised me as they passed. Thanksgiving
+service most impressive: the whole ceremony being
+a grand success. Queen, on returning by a different
+route, enabled thousands of others to show their
+loyalty and affection. Attended evening party, Admiralty
+House, meeting Duke of Edinburgh.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[330]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1872.
+Feb.&nbsp;28.</div>
+
+<p>Wrote name in Prince of Wales’ book.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Aug.&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>This morning’s post brought letter from Mr.
+Goschen, announcing his intention of submitting my
+name to Her Majesty for the command at Devonport.
+Announced the glad tidings to Prince of
+Wales and Susan Albemarle.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Devonport,
+Nov.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>Flag hoisted at Devonport. Heard the salutes
+while dressing. Donned the old uniform that had
+last done duty in China.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Sunday,
+Dec.&nbsp;1.</div>
+
+<p>On my way from church I met the Duke of
+Grafton in sad distress. His Grace, with his invalid
+Duchess, had arrived the previous evening at Lord
+Mount Edgcumbe’s winter villa, situated by the sea,
+but sheltered from everything but the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Her Grace, who had retired early, was off in the
+first quiet sleep she had enjoyed for months, when she
+was thrown into violent hysterics by the discharge of
+cannon in quick succession—one, of course, the
+military evening gun, but the loudest was the Admiral’s.
+It was Sunday. Their Graces could not
+get away; another such discharge, he believed, would
+kill his wife—a repetition was not to be thought of;
+if I could put a stop to the daylight gun; and I
+had no doubt my friend Sir Charles Staveley would
+stop the military one. By early morning the Duke
+and Duchess were out of hearing.</p>
+
+<p>Now there was a factory within hearing, whose
+workmen went in on the firing of the Admiral’s gun.
+The factor, instead of coming to me to explain, reported
+direct to the Admiralty. I received an order
+not to omit the usual daylight gun. On foreign
+stations daylight is not “made” until the event is first
+reported to the Admiral. Communicated with my
+Flag-Captain Heneage. Daylight was “made” at
+very irregular times. I heard no more from the factor!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[331]</span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1875.</div>
+
+<p>My sailor’s life has come to an end: my land one
+must shortly. To describe all the hospitalities and
+fun I enjoyed during the command at Devonport,
+and the three-and-twenty years that have elapsed
+since the flag was hauled down for the last time,
+would fill many volumes. I have only space to mention
+the names of some who were kind to me during
+the latter part of my sailor’s life. First comes the
+Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, whose kind hospitality
+and the run of whose beautiful grounds caused time
+to pass only too quickly. Lord St. Germans of Port
+Elliot: I remember the first time I had the pleasure
+of shooting over his beautiful covert of hanging
+woods. Charlie Edgcumbe told me the keeper was
+anxious to see my ammunition. My predecessor had
+used ball cartridges from his ship’s magazine to the
+danger of beaters. At Helligon, was my good friend
+Tremayne.</p>
+
+<p>Saltram was occupied by the kind and hospitable
+Hartmanns. He, alas! no more. They had frequently
+with them the Marquis de Jeancourt, who
+once kept a stud at Melton Mowbray, the handsome
+Marquise charming, and so like her sister, the
+hostess. The Master of Hounds when I first
+arrived was Mr. Trelawney, the finest specimen of a
+sportsman I ever saw; of him there are published
+descriptions. I attended the opening and finishing
+of his hunt dinners. He was succeeded by Admiral
+Parker of Delamore, whose two cheery daughters
+frequently led the field.</p>
+
+<p>Some eight miles from the dockyard residence was
+the ever cheery and sporting Johnnie Bulteel, with
+his pretty wife and large family; when all together it
+was difficult to say which was mother. In another
+direction, at Maristow, a beautiful place, was Sir
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[332]</span>Massey Lopes, with a lovely wife, to whom I was
+“Uncle Harry.” Nearer to the harbour was Pole
+Carew of Antony, now represented by Colonel Carew,
+C.B., of the Coldstream Guards. Colonel Coryton,
+a good and hospitable sportsman, had a beautiful
+castle, Pentillie, on the banks of the river, to which
+his good sister has succeeded.</p>
+
+<p>Lady Ernestine Edgcumbe is now sole occupant
+of Cotehele, St. Mellion, Cornwall: the same as it
+was three hundred years ago. All these western
+landowners preserved as well as game.</p>
+
+<p>On a visit to Warnham Court to my friend
+Lucas, I was taken by one of his younger sons to
+see their sheep. On our way I noticed a lark’s
+nest, hardly discernible in the grass. Something
+presently caused a stampede. The flock, apparently
+a thousand, took to its heels and trotted along the
+park we had just traversed. I was alarmed for the
+fate of the lark and her eggs, and expressed my fears
+to Lucas.</p>
+
+<p>“Oh!” he said. “I don’t mind betting you a
+fiver that not a foot has even touched the edge of
+the nest. Come and see.”</p>
+
+<p>We went back. It was as he said. Though the
+footprints were within half an inch of it, the nest
+was undisturbed. A lesson to me of the Power
+which guides the instinct of animals to preserve
+smaller creatures from harm.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">1876.
+May 11.
+Return of
+Prince of
+Wales
+from
+India.</div>
+
+<p>Telegram—<span class='ships'>Serapis</span>, with royal standard, passed
+Portland, 8 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> To station to meet Waterfords
+and Dowager Lady: breakfasted at Government
+House, Portsmouth. Some 8000 troops to line
+streets and form guards. Our party admitted into
+dockyard by tickets. Progress of <span class='ships'>Serapis</span> imposing
+towards the end; salutes, ships dressed and yards
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[333]</span>manned. As soon as <span class='ships'>Serapis</span> secured alongside dockyard
+we went on board. Duke of Cambridge there.
+Nothing could exceed the kind and cordial reception
+I got from H.R.H., as well as from the most charming
+of Princesses, she looking so happy. Returned
+to London by Royal Express. Dined with Duke of
+Grafton, meeting Strathnairn, Barrington, Jim Ryley,
+and Ashburton.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;9.</div>
+
+<p>While at Torquay seized with some internal
+disarrangement. Wife in a fright. Doctor Pollard
+sent for. Two visits within two hours. Chloroform
+and laudanum, morphine and other poisons.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;14.</div>
+
+<p>My birthday. Miss glorious Ascot. H.R.H.
+expected.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>June&nbsp;27.</div>
+
+<p>An interview with the great Sir William Gull.
+Was bundled off to Vichy, where I met Lord
+Chesham, whose daughter had married Leicester.
+Had been there before and knew how the ropes led.
+Never enjoyed myself so much. We messed together;
+he had a charming Newfoundland dog. Chesham
+a general favourite. Frenchmen named them
+“Urbanité et Fidelité.”</p>
+
+<p>We had mountain strawberries and cream for
+breakfast. With baths, never was better, but
+determined not to leave my playfellow. It was
+July 16 before I got to London. The next day
+was invited to a breakfast at Chiswick by the Prince
+and Princess of Wales; everybody there: Emperor
+of Morocco, King and Queen of Greece; all so kind
+to me.</p>
+
+<p>While staying with Sir William Medlycott at
+Ven Hall received a kind letter from the Duke of
+Abercorn inviting me to join his suite in the mission
+to confer the Order of the Garter on the King of
+Italy: nothing could be nicer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[334]</span></p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>Feb.&nbsp;8.</div>
+
+<p>Meet of the Blackmoor Vale hounds. Digbys,
+Glynns, and many friends. Country heavy from
+rain. Soon found; large field. We came to a stiffish
+fence with but one gap, which I left to the fair sex.
+Noticed an opening at the bottom, which proved to
+be a long-unused road covered with long grass.
+Where there had been a gate were now heavy bars,
+which I charged.</p>
+
+<p>Although I broke the upper bar, came down the
+heaviest cropper I ever experienced. Horse by my
+side in similar position, but clear of me. How long
+we had been there I know not, but friend Digby,
+who knew the country well, had followed the
+marks of a horse to the corner. He found
+horse and self as quiet as if we had been shot in
+action.</p>
+
+<p>I know not how he got me back to Ven Hall; it was
+the nearest, though I had that day been engaged to
+Minterne. My old coxswain Webb was sent for.
+It was eight days before I could be moved to London.
+All hopes of attending the Duke of Abercorn gone.
+Nothing ordered but quiet. Was conveyed to
+Haslar Hospital, where I certainly secured that for
+a few months.</p>
+
+<div class='sidenote'>April&nbsp;30.</div>
+
+<p>The <span class='ships'>Eurydice</span> training ship was lost in a snow squall
+off the Isle of Wight on March 24 with all hands
+except two boys. While propped up in my bed in the
+hospital, a regular installed patient—for how long?—bodies
+from <span class='ships'>Eurydice</span> were constantly being washed
+up, and funerals with the grand and sad Dead March
+in “Saul” were of daily occurrence; passing under
+my window. With the exception of a few days
+yachting I did not leave Haslar until early in
+August.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">[335]</span></p>
+
+<p>Space only, forbids my recalling later incidents,
+which are, however, unconnected with my sailor’s
+life.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>The last word must be written.</p>
+
+<figure class='figcenter' id='i_335'>
+  <img class='h100' src='images/i_335.jpg' alt=''>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2>
+</div>
+
+<ul class="index">
+  <li class="ifrst">Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir Charles, ii. 46</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Aden, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Admiralty Islands, ii. 150</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Adventure</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Africa</span>, i. 7, 12, 13</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ailesbury, Lady, iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ainos, the, iii. <a href='#Page_199'>199</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Alabama</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Åland Islands, ii. 232</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Albany, ii. 142</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Albatross</span>, ii. 81, 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Albemarle'>Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59</li>
+  <li class="isub1">William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160,
+    248, 249, 251, 252, 253, 254,
+    256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_Au'>Keppel</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">George Thomas, 6th Earl; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_GT'>Keppel</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lord, i. 14</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324; iii. <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Alfred, Prince; <i>see</i> <a href='#Edinburgh'>Edinburgh, Duke of</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Algerine</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Algoa Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. <a href='#Page_125'>125</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Allen, R. C., ii. 3</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Alligator</span>, ii. 337; iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Allison, William, ii. 160</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Alma, the, ii. 240</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Amazon</span>, ii. 115</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Amboyna, ii. 147</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>America</span> yacht, ii. 203</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Amoor River, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Amoy, iii. <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Amphion</span>, ii. 47, 234</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Amping, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Anjer, ii. 129</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Thomas, i. 7, 163</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Hon. William, i. 8, 22</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Auckland</span>, ii. 77, 79</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Aurora</span>, i. 14, 43, 44, 61</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Australia</span>, ii. 128, 129</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Bahia; <i>see</i> <a href='#San_Salvador'>San Salvador</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. <a href='#Page_320'>320</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Balambangan, ii. 94, 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bali Island, ii. 131</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Baltic, the, ii. 220</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bankok, iii. <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Barbadoes, i. 56, 108</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Barösund, ii. 226</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Barton, A., ii. 3</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Basilisk</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bathurst, iii. <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Belem, ii. 213</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bell, Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Belleisle</span>, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Bellerophon</span>, i. 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>;</li>
+  <li class="isub1"><i>see</i> <a href='#Cavendish'>Cavendish-Bentinck</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Beresford, Lord James, i. 187</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bessani; <i>see</i> <a href='#Grand_Bessani'>Grand Bessani</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">“Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Bittern</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Black Sea, ii. 251</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Blakiston, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bogue Forts, ii. 54</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bombay, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. <a href='#Page_127'>127</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Boto Fogo, i. 36</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Bouncer</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bourbon, i. 85</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bowles, Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_281'>281</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bozin, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Brazen</span>, i. 41, 42, 97</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Brisk</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Brooke, Brooke, iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308,
+    312, 313, 317, 319, 333, 339;
+    ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44,
+    57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63,
+    65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86,
+    87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127, 202,
+    322, 334; iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Brooker, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lord, i. 11, 177</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Broughton, Lord, i. 97</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. <a href='#Page_126'>126</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Buffalo River, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bunting, ii. 21</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Buonaparte; <i>see</i> <a href='#Napoleon'>Napoleon</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bury, Viscount, i. 254</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Bush, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Mr., ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Byng, H., ii. 48</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Cabrera, General, i. 188</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cairo, iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Calcutta</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Calderon, Don, i. 195</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Caledonia</span>, i. 168, 170, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Calverley, S., ii. 3</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cambrian</span>, ii. 46</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Campbell_C'>Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252,
+    301</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Canning, George, i. 25</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Canopus</span>, i. 169, 170, 171, 176</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">River, ii. 15; iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87,
+    159, 202, 262</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cape Town, iii. <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Caroline, Queen, i. 8</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Carteret, Captain, ii. 152</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Carthagena, i. 59, 198</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Casher, E., ii. 55, 199</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Castries Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_214'>214</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Cavendish'>Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Celebes Islands, ii. 108</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ceram Islands, ii. 146</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Challier, Commodore, iii. <a href='#Page_274'>274</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Charlotte, Princess, i. 6</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chefoo, iii. <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chernaze, ii. 263</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chersonese; <i>see</i> <a href='#Khersonese'>Khersonese</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chesterfield, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Childers</span>, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193,
+    198, 244, 272, 274</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chin-kiang, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Christmas Island, ii. 75</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Church, Thomas, ii. 77</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249,
+    280</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Chusan, i. 266, 277</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ciervo Island, ii. 188</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Clarendon, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady de, i. 52</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Clio</span>, i. 190, 191, 272</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Clyde, Lord; <i>see</i> <a href='#Campbell_C'>Campbell, Sir Colin</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Thomas; <i>see</i> <a href='#Dundonald'>Dundonald (“Young”)</a>, iii. <a href='#Page_4'>4</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cockchafer</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Colonel, ii. 46</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Coghlan, Colonel, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Coke_T'>Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47,
+    278</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady Frances, i. 78</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251;
+    ii. 47, 82, 128</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Colombo</span>, ii. 270</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Colossus</span>, ii. 312</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Columbine</span>, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278;
+    ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Comba Island, ii. 132</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79,
+    125, 128</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Conolly, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Conti, General, i. 189</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cook, Captain, ii. 153</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cook’s Straits, ii. 169</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cormorant</span>, ii. 199; iii. <a href='#Page_139'>139</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cornwallis</span>, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Corromanli, Ali, i. 172</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Youssuf, i. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Corve'>Corvé Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Courtenay, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Creighton, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Crosbie, Catherine; <i>see</i> <a href='#Lady_Keppel'>Lady Keppel</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251,
+    253, 255; ii. 27</li>
+  <li class="isub1">“Dob,” iii. <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251</li>
+  <li class="isub1">William, ii. 55</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cumberland</span>, ii. 235; iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Cygnet</span>, ii. 40</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dalarö Channel, ii. 224</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dalkeith, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Daniell, Commander, ii. 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Darby, G. S., ii. 3</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Dauntless</span>, ii. 230, 231</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Davis, Sir John, ii. 111</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">de Grey, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Delagoa Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Delmé, George, i. 81</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dent, John, and Co., iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Deschenes'>Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Dido</span>, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272,
+    277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii. 1, 29,
+    30</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Digby, Lord, i. 12</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Edward, i. 12, 98</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Hon. R., i. 12</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dixcove, i. 213-215</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">D’Orsay, Count, i. 163.</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dover, Lord, ii. 201</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Drummond, Edward, ii. 26</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Duè, iii. <a href='#Page_215'>215</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dundee, iii. <a href='#Page_111'>111</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Dundonald'>Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256,
+    278, 280, 322, 331; ii. 68, 212</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Dupleix</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Dupplin, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Eager, John, ii. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">East London, Port of, iii. <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Edinburgh'>Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>-<a href='#Page_315'>315</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Edinburgh</span>, i. 169, 170</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Elgin, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ellice, Robert, ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ellis and Co., iii. <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Elphinstone, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Emhammud, i. 172</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Emot, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Endymion</span>, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274,
+    278</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Enslie, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Esche, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Espoir</span>, i. 68, 69, 77, 86</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Eupatoria, ii. 261</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Europa Island, iii. <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Fatshan Creek, iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Fernando Po, i. 223, 224</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Firebrand</span>, ii. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Firm</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Firmee</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164</li>
+  <li class="isub1">George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Fitzroy_M'>Mary, ii. 40, 153</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Flowers, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_301'>301</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Foley, St. George, ii. 310</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir George, iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Foochow, iii. <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ford, Captain, i. 148</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Formosa, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Forte</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Fukevitche, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Funchal_Roads'>Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Fury</span>, ii. 115, 128</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_302'>302</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Galle; <i>see</i> <a href='#Point'>Point de Galle</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gambia River, iii. <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Garibaldi, iii. <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Garnier, George, i. 16, 19</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Henry, i. 148, 159</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Keppel, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Thomas, iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">William, i. 15</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Gazelle</span>, ii. 185, 187</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">George IV., King, i. 74, 102</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200,
+    201; ii. 217, 248</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gibson, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gleichen, Count, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208,
+    222, 249; ii. 68</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Goodwood, ii. 55</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57</li>
+  <li class="isub1">General C. G., iii. <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Goschen, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gouldisborough, iii. <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gower, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_299'>299</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Grand_Bessani'>Grand Bessani, i. 212</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir George, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Guyamas, ii. 190, 191</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Gye, Frederick, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Herbert, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hakodadi, iii. <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. <a href='#Page_327'>327</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Kerr Baillie, i. 82</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hankow, iii. <a href='#Page_243'>243</a>, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Harlequin</span>, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264,
+    274, 322, 333</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hartford</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hartington, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hastie, ii. 47</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hastings</span>, ii. 128</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady; <i>see</i> Sara Crosbie</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hayti, i. 61</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Heki Hone, ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Heneage, Admiral, i. 102</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Algernon C. F., iii. <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Henessey, Pope, iii. <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hewitt, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hickley, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Highflyer</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hill, Colonel, i. 66</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Dr., iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant, i. 228, 232</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady Georgina; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_G'>Keppel</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hind</span>, i. 168, 176, 180, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hiogo, iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hirado Strait, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hislop, James, i. 71</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hodgson, General, iii. <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hogarth, i. 96</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Henry, Lord, i. 1</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Holman, Joseph, i. 85</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Honeywood, W. P., i. 97</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331,
+    337; ii. 113-115; iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hong-Kong</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hooghly River, i. 155</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hook, Theodore, i. 121</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hope, Captain, ii. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hornby, Sir E., iii. <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">James G. P., i. 22</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>-<a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297, 312-316,
+    325; ii. 40, 256</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Howden, Lord, ii. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hughes, Colonel, i. 93</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hume, David, ii. 44, 63</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65,
+    168</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Huntingfield, Lord, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Hydra</span>, ii. 65</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Icarus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ichaboa Island, iii. <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Illanuns, the, i. 294</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Inconstant</span>, ii. 181</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">India, ii. 62</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Inflexible</span>, ii. 115</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady Sarah, i. 187</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Inkerman, ii. 259, 280</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Java, ii. 131</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jephson, Dr., i. 253</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">“John Company,” i. 133, 134</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Johnson, C., ii. 3</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant W. F., iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Joinville, Prince de, i. 201</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Jonos, the, iii. <a href='#Page_165'>165</a></li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Kaga, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kalamanta Bay, i. 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kapiti Island, ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Karangan, ii. 16</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kazatch, ii. 262, 266</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kearney, Major, iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Kearsage</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:—</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Birth, i. 1</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Christening, i. 1</li>
+  <li class="isub1">School-days, i. 2-5</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Choice of a career, i. 7</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Preparation for the Navy, i. 14</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16</li>
+  <li class="isub1">First voyage, i. 27</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Appointments in H.M. Navy—</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Midshipman, i. 25</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Mate, i. 79</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Lieutenant, i. 86</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Commander, i. 158</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Commodore, ii. 322</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Ships:—</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Childers</span>, i. 164</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Colossus</span>, ii. 312</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Cumberland</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Dido</span>, i. 255</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Forte</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Galatea</span>, i. 100</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>, i. 119</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, ii. 58</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Manilla</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Pearl</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_135'>135</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Pelorus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_144'>144</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, ii. 324</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_143'>143</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, ii. 276; iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, ii. 208</li>
+  <li class="isub2"><span class='ships'>Tweed</span>, i. 25, 66</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Naval stations commanded by:—</li>
+  <li class="isub2">The Cape, iii. <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2">China, iii. <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2">Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284</li>
+  <li class="isub2">Devonport, iii. <a href='#Page_330'>330</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2">S.E. America, iii. <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2">Straits Settlements, ii. 77</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Honours:—</li>
+  <li class="isub2">C.B., ii. 314</li>
+  <li class="isub2">K.C.B., iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2">G.C.B., iii. <a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li>
+  <li class="isub2">D.C.L. Oxford, iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>-<a href='#Page_326'>326</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Lady_Keppel'><span class="smcap">Keppel</span>, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56,
+    57, 88, 202, 207, 208, 328;
+    iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Keppel_J'><span class="smcap">Keppel</span>, Lady (Jane West), iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_A'>Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326</li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_Au'>Augustus Frederick, i. 254</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_273'>273</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Frances, i. 254</li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_GT'>George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253;
+    ii. 59, 61</li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_G'>Georgina, i. 66</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Leicester, ii. 61, 69</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Maria Walpole, iii. <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1" id='Keppel_M'>Mary, i. 1, 66, 93</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sophia, i. 4</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67,
+    81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50, 81</li>
+  <li class="isub1">William, General, i. 59</li>
+  <li class="isub1">family of, i. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class="smcap">Keppel</span>; <i>see</i> <a href='#Albemarle'>Albemarle</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Khersonese'>Khersonese, ii. 258, 263</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kiel Harbour, ii. 240</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kingsley, Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_114'>114</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kinmel, i. 93, 162</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kissang River, i. 135</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kobe, iii. <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Korbé; <i>see</i> <a href='#Corve'>Corvé</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Korea, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Korsakof, General, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kronstadt, ii. 230</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kuching; <i>see</i> <a href='#Sarawak'>Sarawak</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Kung, the Prince of, iii. <a href='#Page_226'>226</a></li>
+
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125,
+    127; iii. <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lante Bay, i. 170</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>La Place</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lawrence, Captain, i. 182</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Leicester, Earl of; <i>see</i> <a href='#Coke_T'>Coke, Thomas William</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Countess of; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_A'>Hon. Anne Keppel</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Le Marchant, Major, i. 75</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Leven</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lexham Hall, i. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Li Hung Chang, iii. <a href='#Page_245'>245</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lima, General, i. 41</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Linga River, ii. 2, 19</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lingghi River, i. 135</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Linn, Mandarin, i. 264</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lisbon, i. 103, 184</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lissa, i. 22</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lloyd, Mr., i. 125</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270,
+    272</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>London</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lowe, Robert, iii. <a href='#Page_325'>325</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lupar River, ii. 6</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lyemoon Pass, iii. <a href='#Page_182'>182</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Macota, ii. 20</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Madagascar</span>, i. 165, 170</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Madeira; <i>see</i> <a href='#Funchal_Roads'>Funchal Roads</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Madrid, i. 186</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Madura, ii. 131</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Mæander</span>, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130,
+    155, 200, 201</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Magicienne</span>, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Magin, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mahé, Port, iii. <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mahébourg, iii. <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Malabar</span>, i. 169, 171, 183, 184</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Malakoff, ii. 274</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Malanga, ii. 172</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maldanado Roads, i. 43</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mallewali, ii. 96</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mambahennan, ii. 100</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mamelon, ii. 273</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Manao, iii. <a href='#Page_169'>169</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maratabu River, ii. 23</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Mariner</span>, ii. 77</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Marseilles, i. 222</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Martin, Admiral, ii. 239</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain George, i. 169</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Surgeon William, i. 75</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Matapan, Cape, i. 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mataxa, Count, iii. <a href='#Page_99'>99</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maul, Fox; <i>see</i> <a href='#Panmure'>Panmure, Lord</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mayatchni Island, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Maynard family, the, i. 164</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Medea</span>, ii. 116</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Medusa</span>, i. 266, 274</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Melville Island, ii. 134</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Gulf of, i. 57</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Meyerbeer, iii. <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Miako, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Michi, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_238'>238</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mikado, the, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Millett family, the, i. 253</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Milo, i. 68, 176</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Doña, i. 196</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ming Tombs, the, iii. <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Minorca, i. 14</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Minto, Lord, i. 255</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_286'>286</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mitford, Bertram, iii. <a href='#Page_268'>268</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Modeste</span>, i. 243, 277</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Moluccas Islands, ii. 147</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Montagu, Oliver, iii. <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260</li>
+  <li class="isub1">General Sir John, i. 260</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146</li>
+  <li class="isub1">River, i. 135; ii. 24</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Moriataba River, i. 295</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mozambique Harbour, iii. <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319,
+    339; ii. 42, 84</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Murrundum Island, i. 294</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Musemberg, i. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Nagasaki, iii. <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_300'>300</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Najassi, iii. <a href='#Page_201'>201</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nanbu Harbour, iii. <a href='#Page_158'>158</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. <a href='#Page_239'>239</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nankow, iii. <a href='#Page_172'>172</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nanning, i. 134, 135</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167,
+    247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228</li>
+  <li class="isub1">William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Napoleon'>Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Navarino, i. 68</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">New Guinea, ii. 148</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">New Spain, i. 64</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">New Zealand, ii. 152, 169</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nicholai, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nicholson, Port, ii. 169</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nigata, iii. <a href='#Page_167'>167</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ning Po, i. 279</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nogueras, General, i. 188</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Norfolk Island, ii. 165</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Norman, Colonel, iii. <a href='#Page_296'>296</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Norton, Mrs., i. 260</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nova Scotia, i. 52</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Novogorod Harbour, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Nwajima, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_293'>293</a></li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst"><span class='ships'>Ocean</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Onrust Island, ii. 130</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ord, Sir Henry, iii. <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Orestes</span>, i. 180, 197, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Orizaba Mountain, i. 62</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Osaka, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_298'>298</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Osmond, John, i. 84</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Otho, King of Greece, i. 179</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ou-teng-foi, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128</li>
+
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Paddi, town, i. 317</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Clarence, ii. 264</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pakington, Sir John, iii. <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pakoo, i. 318</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Palmas, Cape, i. 211</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_100'>100</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Panmure'>Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>-<a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Papua, ii. 148</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264,
+    266, 271, 272, 273, 278, 325;
+    ii. 27, 31</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a>, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_328'>328</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Paros, i. 179</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Parseval Deschênes; <i>see</i> <a href='#Deschenes'>Deschênes</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Partridge, C., ii. 61</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Patingi, Ali, ii. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Patterson, Admiral, i. 52</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Charles, i. 52</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pechell, Captain, ii. 299</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Peck, Henry and George, i. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pedro, Don, i. 40</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Peiho River, iii. <a href='#Page_171'>171</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Peking, i. 81; iii. <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pelham, Dudley, i. 166</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Pelican</span>, i. 226, 231, 242, 277</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pelorus, ii. 144</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_229'>229</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Penelope</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_283'>283</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Penguin Island, i. 203, 208</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Perim, iii. <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pernambuco, i. 41, 42</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Perote, i. 64</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Perseus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. <a href='#Page_208'>208</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pfingsten, Major, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Phlegethon</span>, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Piraeus</span>, the, i. 178</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Plampin, Admiral, i. 48</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. <a href='#Page_130'>130</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Plymouth</span>, ii. 121</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Point'>Point de Galle, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Po-leng, iii. <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pomony, iii. <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pontranini, ii. 20</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Poore, Sir E., ii. 41</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Porchester Castle, i. 52</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Porirua, Cape, ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Port-au-Prince, i. 61</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Portendick, i. 202</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Porter, Captain, i. 98</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Portland</span>, i. 178, 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Port Mahon, i. 194</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Port Nicholson, ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Porto Praya, i. 69, 204</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Posietta Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Potoo, i. 278</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Major, i. 327</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Price, Captain David, i. 178</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Princess Charlotte</span>, i. 52; iii. <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='PrincessRoyal'>Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Province Wellesley, i. 283</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Pulo Sabu, i. 288</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Quitta, i. 235, 240</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Raffles Bay, ii. 134</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Raleigh</span>, ii. 324, 336; iii. <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Ranee</span>, ii. 86</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rattler</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rattlesnake</span>, ii. 153</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72</li>
+  <li class="isub1">W. H., i. 289; iii. <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Revenge</span>, i. 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277</li>
+  <li class="isub1">family, the, i. 248</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rich, Henry, i. 96</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Duchess of, i. 72</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rigby, Colonel, iii. <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rinaldo</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198;
+    iii. <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rio de la Plata, i. 43</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Risk, W. B., iii. <a href='#Page_145'>145</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Robinson, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_221'>221</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Sir Hercules, iii. <a href='#Page_319'>319</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Roches, M., iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Rodney</span>, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200;
+    ii. 276, 304; iii. <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rodyk, Jack, iii. <a href='#Page_318'>318</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Romney family, the, i. 257</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rosebery, Lord, i. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201,
+    247; ii. 39</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Josias (junior), i. 261</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Samuel, ii. 32</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Roy, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Rubielo, i. 188</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Sacrificios, i. 114</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Saghalien Island, iii. <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Saigon, iii. <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Barbara River, i. 227</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Helena, i. 90</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>St. Jean d’Acre</span>, ii. 208, 233, 243</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Island, i. 123</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Roads, i. 85</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='San_Salvador'>San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">St. Vincent, i. 97, 107</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sakai, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Salamanca, i. 82</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Salamis, Bay of, i. 179</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Salamis</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. <a href='#Page_324'>324</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Samarang</span>, ii. 18</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sambas River, i. 292</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sandringham, iii. <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Santobong, ii. 112</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Saracen</span>, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239,
+    240</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Sarawak'>Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83,
+    112; iii. <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sarebas, the, ii. 127</li>
+  <li class="isub1">River, i. 311</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Satellite</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_122'>122</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Satsuma, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain, i. 326</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Prince Edward of, ii. 253</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Scout</span>, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240,
+    242</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sebastopol; <i>see</i> <a href='#Sevastopol'>Sevastopol</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Seboo, ii. 2</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sekarran, country, ii. 2</li>
+  <li class="isub1">River, i. 312; ii. 6</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Senegal, i. 238</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Serapis</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_332'>332</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335</li>
+
+  <li class="indx" id='Sevastopol'>Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Seymour family, the, i. 253</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322,
+    333; ii. 235; iii. <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Michael (junior), iii. <a href='#Page_3'>3</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lord William, ii. 235</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Shakotan Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_227'>227</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sheridan, Charles, i. 260</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Francis, i. 260, 261, 262</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Shunski, Ito, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Siefukigi Temple, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Simoneseki Straits, iii. <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261;
+    iii. <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71</li>
+  <li class="isub1">General, i. 81; ii. 279</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sinclair, Major, i. 291</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288,
+    322, 333, 338; ii. 23, 24, 75, 77,
+    111, 128, 129; iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Sir Charles Forbes</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272,
+    273, 278, 279, 291; ii. 65</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sober Island, i. 127</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Somerset, the Duke of, iii. <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Soult, Marshal, i. 247</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Spalding, John, i. 98</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Spartan</span>, ii. 41</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Sphynx</span>, ii. 52</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Spurrier, Mr., iii. <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Stanhope, Captain, iii. <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Elizabeth, i. 8</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Spencer, i. 8</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Stanley</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123</li>
+  <li class="isub1">General, ii. 117</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164;
+    ii. 219; iii. <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>-<a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lady Mary; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_M'>Keppel</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Steward, Mr., ii. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Stewart, Mrs. Keith; <i>see</i> <a href='#Fitzroy_M'>Fitzroy, Mary</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Straits Settlements, the, iii. <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Strongiolo Bay, i. 179</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Suckling, i. 20, 24</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Suez, iii. <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sumatra, i. 149</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Surtees family, i. 5</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160,
+    161, 246, 247, 249, 322</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Swan, Commander John, iii. <a href='#Page_190'>190</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Swatow, iii. <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Swinhoe, Consul, iii. <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Sybille</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Syra, i. 180</li>
+
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Tagus, River, ii. 213</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tahiti, ii. 177</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tai-wan-foo, iii. <a href='#Page_224'>224</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Taki Zingaburo, iii. <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Taku Forts, iii. <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Talavera</span>, i. 169, 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tangiers, i. 168</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tang-Tau, iii. <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. <a href='#Page_123'>123</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tarragona, i. 189, 196</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tartary, Gulf of, iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tasmania, ii. 157</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Taylor, pilot, i. 257</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tchung-How, iii. <a href='#Page_263'>263</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Templer, John, ii. 43, 62</li>
+  <li class="isub1">J. L. B., ii. 43</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Termination Island, iii. <a href='#Page_195'>195</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Thompson, Deas, ii. 157</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a>, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Thunderer</span>, i. 121, 169, 170, 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tien Chi</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tientsin, iii. <a href='#Page_303'>303</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tomari, iii. <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tombeaux Bay, iii. <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tonga Tabu, ii. 172</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Toolyan Island, ii. 106</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Torres, Captain de, i. 36</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Torres Straits, ii. 142</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tortoza, i. 188</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tosa, Prince, iii. <a href='#Page_170'>170</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tracey, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_177'>177</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Trade Town, i. 203, 206</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Trafalgar, i. 7, 12</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tribune</span>, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tripoli, i. 171, 178</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Trollope, Commander, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Troy, i. 178</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Twanai, iii. <a href='#Page_163'>163</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tweed</span>, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67,
+    85</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Twofold Bay, ii. 157</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Tyne</span>, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst"><span class='ships'>Undaunted</span>, i. 67, 84</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Valparaiso, ii. 195</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Venus</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_186'>186</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Vernon, Lord, i. 184</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Vernon</span>, i. 169, 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Princess; <i>see</i> <a href='#PrincessRoyal'>Princess Royal</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Victory</span>, i. 53</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Villa Nueva, i. 200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Vladimir</span>, ii. 302</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Vladivostock, iii. <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Vlangali, A., iii. <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Volage</span>, i. 169, 180</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Colonel, i. 81</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a>, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Wanderer</span>, i. 275, 333</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Waring, Mr., i. 187</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Warrington, Colonel, i. 172</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Waterford, Lord, i. 246</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Waterwitch</span>, i. 223, 227, 228</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wellesley, Captain George, iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Wellesley</span>, ii. 68</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Frederica, Countess of, i. 8</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">West, Green, i. 71</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Jane; <i>see</i> <a href='#Keppel_J'>Keppel, Lady</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Rev. Richard, iii. <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Whitehead, Mr., i. 322</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Whydah, i. 237, 239</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wildman, Colonel, i. 11</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163,
+    200</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Williams, Sir John, i. 94</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Willoughby, James, iii. <a href='#Page_117'>117</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. <a href='#Page_178'>178</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">family, the, i. 51</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Mr., ii. 101, 105</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Windsor, iii. <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63</li>
+  <li class="isub1">Captain W., i. 169</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wodehouse, George, i. 103</li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Wolverine</span>, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wood, Sir Charles, iii. <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">Rev. James, i. 2, 4</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Wynberg, i. 71</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Xeres, i. 184</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. <a href='#Page_237'>237</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yarborough, Lord, i. 166</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yates, Mr., i. 66</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yedo, iii. <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yeh, Admiral, iii. <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yeng Cheow, iii. <a href='#Page_223'>223</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yesso, iii. <a href='#Page_164'>164</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yo-chow, iii. <a href='#Page_250'>250</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yokohama, iii. <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>,
+    <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yokosha, iii. <a href='#Page_191'>191</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx">York, Cape, ii. 142</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Young, Captain, ii. 79</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165</li>
+
+  <li class="ifrst">Zante, i. 180, 182</li>
+
+  <li class="indx">Zanzibar, iii. <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li>
+  <li class="isub1">the Sultan of, iii. <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li>
+
+  <li class="indx"><span class='ships'>Zebra</span>, iii. <a href='#Page_222'>222</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>THE END</p>
+
+<p><i>Printed by</i> <span class="smcap">R. &amp; R. Clark, Limited</span>, <i>Edinburgh</i>.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[351]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak">
+    MACMILLAN AND CO.’S NAVAL WORKS.
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='hang'><b>THE NAVAL HISTORY OF GREAT BRITAIN.</b> From the Declaration of War
+by France in 1793, to the Accession of George IV. By <span class="smcap">William
+James</span>. With a Continuation of the History to the Battle of
+Navarino, by Captain <span class="smcap">Chamier</span>. With portraits on Steel
+of William James, Lord Nelson, Sir Thomas Troubridge, Earl St.
+Vincent, Lord Duncan, Sir Hyde Parker, Sir Nesbit Willoughby, Sir
+William Hoste, Lord Hood, Earl Howe, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord
+Dundonald. 6 vols. Crown 8vo. 42s.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW.</i>—“James, one of the most pertinacious of investigators,
+set a new example. He honestly did his utmost to satisfy himself of the absolute
+truth of every statement which he submitted to his readers. He wrote hundreds of letters
+to the surviving actors in the events which he purposed to describe. He read and digested
+all the despatches, logs, gazettes, previous histories, foreign reports, and private narratives
+on which he could lay his hands. He carefully balanced conflicting accounts, and arrived
+in the majority of instances at conclusions the correctness of which has never yet been
+successfully attacked. He went to immense pains to give the exact Christian names of
+all officers whom he had occasion to mention, and to analyse the true force of every ship
+the exploits of which he recounted. Never was there a man more painstaking, more
+indefatigable, more scrupulously conscientious.”</p>
+
+<p><i>EDINBURGH REVIEW.</i>—“This book is one of which it is not too high praise to
+assert that it approaches as nearly to perfection in its own line as any historical work perhaps
+ever did.”</p>
+
+<p class='center mt1 fs120 sans'><i>Edited by THE TWELFTH EARL OF DUNDONALD.</i></p>
+
+<p class='hang mth'><b>THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A SEAMAN: Thomas, Tenth Earl of
+Dundonald.</b> Popular Edition, with a Sequel relating Lord Dundonald’s services in
+South America, and in the War of the Greek Independence, and with an account of
+his later life and scientific inventions. With Portraits, Charts, and Nine Illustrations
+on Wood. Crown 8vo. 6s.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>TIMES.</i>—“Full of brilliant adventure, described with a dash that well befits the deeds.”</p>
+
+<p><i>DAILY NEWS.</i>—“Ought to be a classic in every library afloat or ashore.”</p>
+
+<p class='mth hang'><b>BRITAIN’S NAVAL POWER: A Short History of the Growth of the
+British Navy.</b> Part I.—<span class="smcap">From the Earliest Times to Trafalgar.</span> Part II.—<span class="smcap">From
+Trafalgar to the Present Time.</span> By <span class="smcap">Hamilton Williams</span>, M.A.,
+Instructor in English Literature to Naval Cadets on H.M.S. <i>Britannia</i>. Crown 8vo.
+4s. 6d. net.</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class='right'>
+  [<i>Britannia Series.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>TIMES.</i>—“The facts are full of interest, many of them are very imperfectly known,
+even to those whose acquaintance with other and more stirring periods of naval history is
+considerable, and they are presented by Mr. Williams in a form both attractive and
+instructive.”</p>
+
+<p><i>SPECTATOR.</i>—“It is an excellent little work, and seems to include every naval
+event of importance during the period named. Considering the space at the author’s
+command, we think it wonderful how much he has managed to get in.”</p>
+
+<p class='center mt1 fs120 sans'><i>MR. KIPLING AND THE NAVY.</i></p>
+
+<p class='center mth'><i>Thirty-fifth Thousand.</i></p>
+
+<p class='hang mth'><b>A FLEET IN BEING.</b> Notes of Two Trips with the Channel Squadron.
+By <span class="smcap">Rudyard Kipling</span>. Crown 8vo, sewed, 1s. net; Cloth, 1s. 6d. net.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>ARMY AND NAVY GAZETTE.</i>—“A very admirable picture of the life of
+officers and men who go down to the sea in the ships of Her Majesty’s fleet.”</p>
+
+<p><i>ARMY AND NAVY ILLUSTRATED.</i>—“A little book to be read far and wide.”</p>
+
+<p class='center fs120 mth'><span class="smcap">MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[352]</span></p>
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak">
+    MACMILLAN AND CO.’S MILITARY WORKS.
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='hang mt1'><b>FORTY-ONE YEARS IN INDIA FROM SUBALTERN TO COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF.</b>
+By Field-Marshal <span class="smcap">Lord Roberts</span> of Kandahar, V.C.,
+K.P., G.C.B., G.C.S.I., G.C.I.E. New Edition in One Vol. With Forty-four
+Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo. 10s. net.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>TIMES.</i>—“A vivid and simple narrative of things actually seen by a fighting man
+who, during forty-one years of Indian service, saw more hard fighting than almost any
+other Englishman of our time. It also records the experience of a military administrator
+who has conducted historical campaigns and been the presiding genius in the reorganisation
+of a great Army. But to the general reader, perhaps, its chief charm will be glimpses
+which it gives, with a certain Cervantes-like <i>naïveté</i>, of the personality of the author.
+A hundred unconscious touches, in the camp, on the battlefield, and at the council-table,
+reveal to us the veritable hero of the British private, and the fearless leader of
+men whom every native soldier would follow to the death.”</p>
+
+<p class='mth hang'><b>A HISTORY OF THE INDIAN MUTINY AND OF THE DISTURBANCES
+WHICH ACCOMPANIED IT AMONG THE CIVIL POPULATION.</b>
+By <span class="smcap">T. Rice Holmes</span>. Fifth Edition, Revised throughout and slightly
+Enlarged. With Five Maps and Six Plans. Extra Crown 8vo. 12s. 6d.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>ATHENÆUM.</i>—“May be accepted without scruple as a standard authority....
+Is worthy of a warm welcome. It is convenient in form, and the maps and plans are
+excellent.”</p>
+
+<p class='mth hang'><b>A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH ARMY.</b> By Hon. <span class="smcap">J. W. Fortescue</span>.
+In Two Vols. 8vo.</p>
+
+<div class='signature'>
+<p class="right">
+  [<i>Immediately.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class='hang mth'><b>A HISTORY OF THE 17th LANCERS (Duke of Cambridge’s Own).</b>
+By Hon. <span class="smcap">J. W. Fortescue</span>. Illustrated. Royal 8vo. 25s. net.</p>
+
+<p class='mt1 sans fs120 center'><i>ENGLAND IN EGYPT.</i></p>
+
+<p class='mth hang'><b>THE EGYPTIAN SOUDAN: ITS LOSS AND RECOVERY.</b> By <span class="smcap">Henry
+S. L. Alford</span>, Lieutenant Royal Scots Fusiliers, and <span class="smcap">W. D. Sword</span>, Lieutenant
+North Stafford Regiment. With numerous Illustrations, Portraits, and Maps.
+8vo. 10s. net.</p>
+
+<p class="center mtq">
+&#8258; The Narrative includes the BATTLE OF OMDURMAN and the</p>
+<p class='center'>FALL OF KHARTOUM.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>DAILY TELEGRAPH.</i>—“A plain, soldierly narrative which practically covers the
+whole recent history of the Soudan, and, as such, will doubtless meet with appreciative
+readers.”</p>
+
+<p class='mth hang'><b>THE CAMPAIGN IN TIRAH, 1897-1898.</b>—An Account of the Expedition
+against the Orakzais and Afridis under General Sir <span class="smcap">William Lockhart</span>, G.C.B.,
+K.C.S.I. Based (by permission) on Letters contributed to the <i>Times</i> by Colonel
+<span class="smcap">H. D. Hutchinson</span>, Director of Military Education in India. With Maps, Plans,
+and Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 8s. 6d. net.</p>
+
+<p class='mtq'><i>NAVY AND ARMY.</i>—“A book of singular interest, and of much practical value....
+Of the actual fighting, Colonel Hutchinson writes brilliantly. His letters to the
+<i>Times</i> were the best sent regularly from the seat of war, and they are embodied in the
+volume with many additions and links.... Thoroughly good reading.... Emphatically
+a book to be read.”</p>
+
+<p class='mt1 fs120 center'><span class="smcap">MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON.</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="transnote">
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">
+    Transcriber’s Notes
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Images relocated close to related content.</li>
+<li>Sidenotes relocated close to related content.</li>
+<li>The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate
+   the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location.
+   Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous
+   sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted.</li>
+<li>Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close
+   to related content.</li>
+<li>Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were
+   silently corrected.</li>
+<li>Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.</li>
+<li>Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.</li>
+<li>The index that appears in volume III has been replicated into
+   volumes I and II.  Only those page numbers pertaining to this volume
+   have been linked.
+</li>
+</ul>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
+
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #76810
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/76810)