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diff --git a/76810-0.txt b/76810-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..82c7eed --- /dev/null +++ b/76810-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14022 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 *** + + + + + +A SAILOR’S LIFE + + + + +[Illustration: MacMillan and Co. Printer’s Mark.] + + + + +[Illustration: “_Sibuko had had his Quietus._”] + + + + + A SAILOR’S LIFE + UNDER + FOUR SOVEREIGNS + + BY + ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET + THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL + G.C.B., D.C.L. + + VOL. III + + London + MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED + NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + 1899 + + _All rights reserved_ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER LXVI PAGE + Fatshan Creek 1 + + CHAPTER LXVII + Visit Sarawak 8 + + CHAPTER LXVIII + Sarawak--India--England 11 + + CHAPTER LXIX + England 19 + + CHAPTER LXX + England--Groom-in-Waiting 32 + + CHAPTER LXXI + In Waiting 36 + + CHAPTER LXXII + The Cape Command 39 + + CHAPTER LXXIII + The Cape Command--Flag in _Brisk_ 45 + + CHAPTER LXXIV + East Coast Sport 50 + + CHAPTER LXXV + Zanzibar--Shooting Hippopotami 57 + + CHAPTER LXXVI + Zanzibar 62 + + CHAPTER LXXVII + _Forte_--Flag Re-hoisted 65 + + CHAPTER LXXVIII + The Cape Command 68 + + CHAPTER LXXIX + Return to England 75 + + CHAPTER LXXX + Shore Time 80 + + CHAPTER LXXXI + Country House Visits 92 + + CHAPTER LXXXII + A Shore Journal 104 + + CHAPTER LXXXIII + Home Life 109 + + CHAPTER LXXXIV + The Command in China 113 + + CHAPTER LXXXV + Bound for China 117 + + CHAPTER LXXXVI + The China Command 129 + + CHAPTER LXXXVII + North China Ports 139 + + CHAPTER LXXXVIII + Daibootz 153 + + CHAPTER LXXXIX + The China Command 164 + + CHAPTER XC + The Outlook for the New Year 173 + + CHAPTER XCI + Hari-Kari 183 + + CHAPTER XCII + The China Command 190 + + CHAPTER XCIII + Flag in _Salamis_ 206 + + CHAPTER XCIV + The China Command 218 + + CHAPTER XCV + The Command in China 227 + + CHAPTER XCVI + The Northern Ports 237 + + CHAPTER XCVII + Memories of Gordon 245 + + CHAPTER XCVIII + Yang-tse-kiang Trip 256 + + CHAPTER XCIX + Chefoo to Japan 263 + + CHAPTER C + The China Command 272 + + CHAPTER CI + The China Command 278 + + CHAPTER CII + Close of China Command 285 + + CHAPTER CIII + Peking 298 + + CHAPTER CIV + Homeward Bound 311 + + CHAPTER CV + Last Visit to the Straits 316 + + CHAPTER CVI + Some Farewell Notes 321 + + INDEX 337 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + SUBJECT ARTIST PAGE + + “Sibuko had had his Quietus” _E. Caldwell_ Frontispiece + + Part of my Galley’s Crew _Nina Daly_ 3 + + Map--Northern China, with Coast + of Siberia 5 + + A Malay Kampong _Photo by Dr. Johnstone_ 11 + + In Bornean Jungle ” ” 12 + + Whampoa _Photograph_ 13 + + Suspicious Junks _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 21 + + _Forte_ at Rio ” ” 43 + + My Middle Watch _J. W. Houghton_ 53 + + A Right and Left Shot _E. Caldwell_ 59 + + Commodore Oliver Jones _Nina Daly_ 129 + + Map--Eastern Archipelago 142 + + Sir Rutherford Alcock _Photograph_ 143 + + Sir Harry Parkes ” 148 + + Crossing a River in Japan _Commodore Oliver Jones_ 161 + + Lord Charles Scott _Nina Daly_ 170 + + Map--Northern China, with Coast + of Siberia 193 + + May and Webb _Photograph_ 248 + + Mrs. Alt ” 274 + + The Prince who made the Omelette ” 305 + + “The Little Admiral” _Hong Kong_ “Punch” 314 + + Jack Rodyk _Photograph_ 319 + + Last of the _Rodney_, 1884 ” 323 + + Duke of Buccleuch ” 327 + + Admiral of the Fleet, The Hon. Sir _Sketched at The Albany_ + Henry Keppel, G.C.B., D.C.L. _by Nina Daly_ 335 + + + + +CHAPTER LXVI + +FATSHAN CREEK + + +[Sidenote: 1857. May 30.] + +The time had arrived that the Admiral had arranged for the destruction +of the Chinese Fleet. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, my late aide-de-camp +when I had the Naval Brigade in Crimea, was now with me as Commodore’s +Flag Lieutenant. My gig only held one sitter besides self. Among my +other boys I had on board the _Hong-Kong_ with Goodenough were Lord +Charles Scott, Victor Montagu, and Harry Stephenson. I left Commander +Turnour in the _Bittern_ to arrange my other boys. He had with him +Lieutenant Stanley Graham, Dupuis, Foster, Pilkington, and A. V. Paget. +In the _Sir Charles Forbes_ were Lieutenant Lord Gilford and Hardy +M‘Hardy. In the Macao Fort were Lieutenant W. F. Johnson and Captain +Magin, Lieutenant Owen, Royal Marines, Hon. F. G. Crofton, and H. +B. Russell, Master’s Assistant. My late youngster, “Jacko Hall,” in +_Childers_ brig was now Flag Captain: a strictly religious man. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +Though everything was ready he had sufficient influence with our good +chief not to desecrate the Sabbath, and so deferred the attack until +Monday, the 1st of June, on which day I had the honour of leading the +boats of the Fleet in an attack on a strong force of the Imperialist +junks posted in two divisions in well-selected positions in the Fatshan +Creek. The following account is taken from a letter to my sister Mary:-- + + _Alligator_, CANTON RIVER, + _June 20, 1857_. + + The three weeks of this month have been full of excitement. We + commenced on the first with as pretty a boat action as can be + imagined, though it may not be appreciated because it occurred + in distant China. From the heights the Fatshan Creek affair must + have been a beautiful sight. My broad pennant was hoisted on board + the _Hong-Kong_. The shallow water caused her to ground; she + would otherwise have been in front. Took with me Prince Victor of + Hohenlohe, having previously been commanded by Her Majesty, through + Sir Charles Phipps, to take every care of him, and left Victor + Montagu, my proper gig’s mid, on board; but the lifting tide soon put + him in the midst. We took the lead. The first division of the Chinese + were attacked simultaneously by about 1900 men. I had not more than + a quarter of that number to attack the second division, which was + three miles higher up the river in a well-selected place, evidently + the _élite_ of their Fleet. The junks numbered twenty in one compact + row, mounting about fourteen guns each, removed to the side next us, + those in the stern and bow being heavy 32-pounders. Boarding nets + were dropped on our boats, but not until our men were alongside, + as it enabled them all the quicker to sever the cables connecting + the junks. _Raleigh’s_ boats well up, and did not require cheering + on. The Chinese fired occasional shots to ascertain exact distance, + but did not open their heaviest fire till we were within 600 yards. + Nearly the first poor fellow cut in two by a round shot was an + amateur, Major Kearney, whom I had known many years. We cheered, and + were trying to get to the front when a shot struck our boat, killing + the bowman. Another was cut in two. A third shot took another’s arm + off. Prince Victor leaned forward to bind up the man’s arm with his + neck-cloth. While he was so doing, a shot passed through both sides + of the boat, wounding two more of the crew; in short, the boat was + sunk under us. + +[Illustration: _Part of my Galley’s Crew._] + + Our man-of-war boats do not carry iron ballast, but are steadied + by “breakers” made to fit neatly under each thwart and filled with + fresh water. The tide rising, boats disabled, oars shot away, it + was necessary to re-form. I was collared and drawn from the water + by young Michael Seymour, a mate of his uncle’s flagship, the + _Calcutta_. We were all picked up except the dead bowman, whom the + faithful dog “Mike” would not leave. As we retired I shook my fist at + the junks, promising I would pay them off. We went to the _Hong-Kong_ + and re-formed. I hailed Lieutenant Graham to get his boat ready, + as I would hoist the broad pennant for next attack in his boat. I + had no sooner spoken when he was down, the same shot killing and + wounding four others. Graham was one mass of blood, but it was from + a marine who stood next to him, part of whose skull was forced three + inches into another man’s shoulder. When we reached the _Hong-Kong_ + the whole of the Chinese fire appeared to be centred on her. She was + hulled twelve times in a few minutes. Her deck was covered with the + wounded, who had been brought on board from different boats. From + the paddle-box we saw that the noise of guns was bringing up strong + reinforcements. The account of our having been obliged to retire + had reached them. They were pulling up like mad. The _Hong-Kong_ + had floated, but grounded again. A bit of blue bunting was prepared + to represent a broad pennant, and I called out, “Let’s try the row + boats once more, boys,” and went over the side into our cutter + (_Raleigh’s_), in which was Turnour and the faithful coxswain, + Spurrier. At this moment there arose from the boats, as if every man + took it up at the same instant, one of those British cheers, so full + of meaning, that I knew at once it was all up with John Chinaman. + They might sink twenty boats, but there were thirty others who + would go ahead all the faster. It was indeed an exciting sight. A + move among the junks! They were breaking ground and moving off, the + outermost first! This the Chinese performed in good order, without + slacking fire. Then commenced an exciting chase for seven miles. As + our shot told they ran mostly on to the mud banks, and their crews + forsook them. Young Cochrane in his light gig got the start of me, + but, having boarded a war junk, John Chinaman did not wait to receive + him properly, but preferred mud on the other side. Seventeen junks + were overtaken and captured. Three only escaped. Before this last + chase my poor Spurrier was shot down. I saw his bowels protruding, + with my binoculars in the middle, as he lay in the bottom of the + boat, holding my hand. He asked if there was any hope. I could only + say, “Where there is life there is hope,” but I had none! He was + removed into another boat, and sent to the hospital ship. Strange to + say, the good Crawford served him up, and the Admiral’s last letter + from Hong-Kong states that Spurrier hoped to return to his duty in + a few days. + +[Illustration: Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia] + + * * * * * + +Words fail me, on looking back to this stirring day, to express my +gratitude that I was allowed to take part in this action. When my ship +was lost, I felt as if my day was done. But fate was kind, and Fatshan +Creek gave me another chance in the service I ardently loved. + +The following proclamation, by the Chinese Admiral Yeh, was found in +one of the captured junks after Fatshan:-- + + Liang, subaltern in charge of the Tan chau[1] Station of the + Kwang Tung Province, whose name is noted for the rank of captain, + with authority meanwhile to wear the button of that rank, makes a + communication. + + [1] In Hai-nan. + + “I am in receipt of a despatch from the Governor General Yeh, to the + following effect:-- + + “‘Whereas the barbarian outlaws[2] have not as yet submitted, and the + nature of these rebels is not to be fathomed, the officers and men of + the different vessels stationed at P’ing-chau[3] must stand well and + strictly on their guard, so as to be ready at all points, and prevent + any mishap. It is my duty, therefore, to send orders at once to you, + on receipt of which you will, in obedience thereto, immediately + confer with the other officers associated with you on this service, + and with them set an example in concerting proper measures of control + and precaution on board your respective vessels. You will continue + without distinction of day or night to patrol constantly, as a + shuttle moves in the loom, and to make observation assiduously and + with secrecy. The soldiers and braves under your command must on no + account land, or leave their vessels; and if there be the slightest + movement on the part of the barbarians, you must make for Sam-shan + and open fire upon them, cutting off and slaying ruthlessly. If + any one ruin the undertaking by venturing, be it ever so little, + to be slack or indifferent, the officer commanding shall be held + responsible; no mercy shall be shown him. Courage in the engagement + shall be liberally rewarded. Haste in fear! Haste in earnest!’ + + [2] _Fi_, vagabonds, rebels, or any lawless persons. + + [3] Between Sam-shan and Fat-shan. + + “In obedience to the above I write to every other of the officers in + charge of vessels. In addition to this it is my duty to write also to + you; I accordingly write and request that you will in no particular + depart from the instructions of His Excellency. + + “A necessary communication addressed to the officer in charge of the + Shun-on Li junk. + + “Hien Fung, 7th year, 5th moon, 8th day (29th May, 1857).” + + + + +CHAPTER LXVII + +VISIT SARAWAK + + +[Sidenote: 1857. June 5.] + +Master and self tried by court-martial on board the _Sybille_ for the +loss of the _Raleigh_. + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +The hull of my poor _Raleigh_ advertised for sale, to take place on +Monday 29th. Who would have believed it! Commander-in-Chief appointing +us by commission, dated yesterday, to the _Alligator_. + +[Sidenote: Canton River, June 14.] + +_Sunday._--My birthday. Enter my forty-ninth year--a day on which one +no longer cares to be congratulated. Went up in _Hong-Kong_ as far as +Second Bar, where _Tribune_ and _Highflyer_ are. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +Proceeded to Macao Fort; found they had made a prize of a mandarin junk +laden with tea. + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +Returned as far as Second Bar and met Sampson. No permission from Chief +to ascend Anninghoy Creek. + +[Sidenote: June 18.] + +Made preparations for capture of the Chucupee Fort. The Celestials, +however, mizzled on our approach. Took possession and left Edgell with +_Tribune_ in charge. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +Anniversary of Her Majesty’s Accession. Dressed ships. At noon fired +Royal salutes the whole length of the Canton River. + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Shifted berth to below Second Bar, taking old _Alligator_ up. Dined +with Sir Robert M‘Clure of North-West Passage celebrity in _Esk_. + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +Friend “Thomas,” Prince Victor, and self took departure for Dent’s +comfortable quarters at Macao, on board the _Firmee_. Found poor +Cleverly still confined to bed. Met a clerk of Dent’s House, who wears +a moustache, and looks a muff. + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +Macao better climate than Hong-Kong. Thomas, Prince Victor, and I dined +at Endicott’s. + +[Sidenote: July 26.] + +Heard of the untimely death of poor young Foster, which took place on +board the _Fury_ off Macao Fort. By _Firmee_ to Hong-Kong and Dent’s +bungalow. Visit from St. George Foley. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Returned by _Firmee_ to Macao, meeting Admiral there in _Coromandel_, +who informed me of the little chance I had of becoming second in +command, as far as Sir Charles Wood was concerned. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Mail in from England. Ascertained from Commander-in-Chief that Sir +Charles Wood at Admiralty disapproved of my broad pennant being hoisted +after loss of _Raleigh_. Decided on going home. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 23.] + +The worthy Judge Hulme gave me a farewell dinner. Parting dinner at +Dent’s. William Dent over from Macao. + +[Sidenote: Hong-kong, Aug. 25.] + +Took leave of my good friends the Dents. Also the kind Admiral. +Embarked on board _Formosa_, P. and O. steamer, for passage to England, +with option of landing and coming on when and how I like. Flagship +manning rigging and cheering on passing. My _Raleigh’s_ officers on +board, with others, to wish me good-bye!!! + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: P. and O. _Formosa_, Aug. 26.] + +Once more on the wide and open sea, but in the novel position of +passenger. Dr. and Mrs. Parker and my worthy friend and old shipmate +Crawford of the party. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +10 A.M.--Arrived in New Harbour, Singapore. Kindly taken in by +Blundell at Government House. Read Clarence Paget’s friendly +explanation of my recall in the House of Commons. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Sept. 5.] + +Found Charlie Grant, wife and child, going to Sarawak. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 6.] + +Dined with the Blundells--their daughters, Jane and Anne, particularly +nice girls. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +_Emperor_ steam yacht in the Roads requiring a foremast--time for her +to take me to Sarawak and return while mast getting ready. Pleasant and +convenient arrangement. News from India; slight improvement, but Delhi +still untaken. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +Captain Sidney Grenfell, senior officer in Malacca Straits, cancelled +the orders already given. The Emperor of Japan’s yacht is not to go +with me to Borneo! There is a difference between being _in_ and _out_ +of office. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 9.] + +Dined with Colonel Liardet at the mess of 21st N.I. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 10.] + +Lord Elgin arrived from Calcutta in _Ava_, P. and O. Co’s steamer. +Breakfasted with Harvey, meeting Greenshields and Paterson, with their +wives. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 11.] + +Many good fellows in Lord Elgin’s staff, George Fitzroy one of them. +Dined at home (Government House) to meet Lord Elgin. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 12.] + +Mail in from England. Turnour and Prince Victor promoted. I senior +captain on the list. Many letters of congratulation on Fatshan Creek. +Met Lord Elgin and party at dinner. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +Embarked on board Emperor of Japan’s yacht. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 15.] + +Rounded Taujong Datu. In evening anchored off Taujong Poe. + + + + +[Illustration: _A Malay Kampong._] + + + + +CHAPTER LXVIII + +SARAWAK--INDIA--ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1857. Sarawak, Sept. 16.] + +Piloted the yacht as far as the Quop. Up in the gig to Sarawak. How +altered! Extended but not improved in appearance. Miss the attap roofs; +tiles look heavy. Miss the jungle, and, most of all, the Rajah, who is +at Brunei. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 17.] + +Brooke Brooke and Charlie Grant are here with their wives, and each +owns a child. How many happy associations of bygone days. Must wait +Rajah’s return. Dine with the Bishop. Took a stroll in the jungle with +Alderson’s rifle. Jungle too magnificent. Found the walking bad, and +the gun heavy, to say nothing of the wood-leeches that adhered to and +feasted off my legs, in spite of my trousers being tied like bloomers +round the ankles. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 19.] + +Took an early walk over two miles of the road cut through the jungle. +Somewhat checked by Chinese outbreak. Plenty of wild pig about, but +difficult to get at. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +Went to church. Service performed by Bishop, with three assistants. +Singing by native Christianized children wonderfully good. Young Brooke +and I dining with the Bishop--a good fellow, without guile or humbug. + +[Illustration: _In Bornean Jungle._] + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +Crossed the river to see a man-eating alligator just caught, length 12 +ft. 6 in. Astonishing the ease with which the Malay kris cuts through +the thick skin between the joints along the neck and tail of the brute. +Started with Charlie Grant, Alderson, and Watson in an excursion up the +river by P.M. tide. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Grant having put us up in his bungalow, where he is about to build a +fort and assume the command of that district, we started in afternoon +on our deer-shooting excursion, getting as far as the Singy Hill Dyaks, +where we slept in their “scullery.” Unclean animals these Dyaks. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +A forenoon walk took us some four or five miles to a hut near the deer +ground. In afternoon, before sunset, we went out in two parties. Saw +some large red deer; stalked near and shot a doe. + +[Illustration: _Whampoa._] + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Long walk of ten miles in the hottest sun, and roughest ground. Back to +boat. On arrival at bungalow, heard of Rajah’s return to his capital. +Started alone after dinner for Sarawak to join him. Found Brooke in +great force; nearly five years since we met; he altered, but not so +much as I expected, considering smallpox and what else he has gone +through. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 29.] + +Embarked on board the _Sir James Brooke_ on return to Singapore. +Farewell, Sarawak. May you prosper as you so well deserve! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Arrived in Singapore. Governor being absent at Penang, put up at +Whampoa’s, and how comfortable the good fellow made me! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 2.] + +Waited on by a deputation of the merchants to invite me to an +entertainment. Grand dinner given by the residents at the London Hotel. +Their kindness preventing my responding as I wished. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 4.] + +Afternoon agreeably passed at Angus’s small bungalow, where Whampoa, +“Thomas,” Briggs, and Harrison dined. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Dined with Napier. Anniversary of his wedding, at which I was present +thirteen years ago. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 6.] + +Mail steamer coming in, decided on going on. Find myself on flag list, +also recommended for the K.C.B. 4 P.M., embarked on board _Cadiz_, mail +steamer. + +[Sidenote: Penang, Oct. 8.] + +1.40 P.M., arrived at Penang. Dined with old friend Lewis, having +called on Blundell and the recorder, Sir Benson Maxwell. On board at 6; +_Cadiz_ under weigh. + +[Sidenote: Galle, Oct. 15.] + +Arrived at Galle before 8 o’clock. Took rooms on shore, but as the +P. and O. agent was not inclined to let us proceed by way of Bombay +without extra payment, accepted an offer to go to Bombay in _Madras_ +hired transport. Packed up and off again by sunset. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +Every attention paid to our comfort on board _Madras_. Captain Jenkins +of the Indian Navy most kind. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +10 P.M., came to in Bombay Harbour. + +[Sidenote: India, Oct. 20.] + +Landed after breakfast, having received an invitation to take up my +abode with Captain and Mrs. George Wellesley, he in charge of the +Bombay Marine. They had a sweet little girl I called the “Râni.” Sir +Hugh Rose was here on his way to the Mutiny, having already been home +since the Crimea. He was staying with the Governor, Lord Elphinstone, +on the hills at Matheran, where I joined them later. Came up, too, +with our invalided Doctor Crawford, who found his brother here, a +magistrate, with whom I had a good dinner. We went by train to see the +wonderful elephant caves with fittings that date two thousand years +before the birth of our Saviour. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +Kindly welcomed by Lord Elphinstone. So glad to have a few days with +Hugh Rose. Pleasant party, consisting of Captain Colborn and staff. +Climate delightful. Blankets pleasant. No mosquitoes. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 31.] + +At breakfast appeared remainder of staff, Doctor Peel and Colonel Bate. +Rode with Governor in cool of evening. Such varied and magnificent +scenery! Rode some eight miles without a hill! + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +Early ride in other direction with Colonel Russell. Matheran such a +nice place. Found Harry Parker located on the hill with wife and two +children; he came to ride and dine. + +[Sidenote: Bombay, Nov. 2.] + +Returned by 8.30 train to Bombay. Wellesley and I to dine with +Commander Jenkins and officers of Indian Marine. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 3.] + +Wellesley and I to call on Governor. Among letters by the mail, +received the following from my brother-in-law Stephenson. + + ROOKSBURY, FAREHAM, HANTS, + _September 20, 1857_. + + MY DEAR HARRY--You are an Admiral and a K.C.B.; that rejoices my + heart. + + I transcribe for your information what has occurred in this matter, + as it will please you, in some points. + +[Sidenote: Copy of Letter to Lord Panmure.] + + _August 29, 1857._ + + It is with very great reluctance and some pain that I request your + careful attention to this statement, and that you will favour me + with an interview. + + The matter of painful grievance is this-- + + A public, professional, and personal disparagement, I may say + _dishonour_, has been inflicted upon Captain Keppel, R.N., in + withholding from him the K.C.B. of the Baltic. + + There exists at the Admiralty a minute of more than twelve years + standing, “that he was entitled to the C.B. for services performed + in the China Seas under Admiral Parker and Sir Hugh Gough, G.C.B.” + + Keppel gave up the command of the finest ship in the navy, + _St. Jean d’Acre_, to serve in the trenches. His predecessor, + Lushington, in the command of the Naval Brigade before Sebastapol, + upon giving up his command was gazetted on the 10th July 1855. + “Captain Stephen Lushington, R.N. to the K.C.B.” + + He was not previously a C.B. + + Keppel from that time to the fall of Sebastapol commanded that + Brigade. The General and the Admiral Commanding-in-Chief in their + despatches eulogised the services of Keppel in the highest terms of + praise. + + He commanded at the fall of Sebastapol, which was the crowning + victory of the campaign. + + Lord Lyons _told me_ that the French could not have taken + Sebastapol but for Keppel’s well-directed fire. + + His rank of captain is not sufficient excuse. Lushington was + gazetted as captain, and when the distribution of the honours were + gazetted there was one captain his senior and one his junior K.C.B. + (I have had a correspondence with Panmure and Sir Charles Wood upon + this subject.) + + I regret, and it is with painful regret I state it, that I can only + collect from Wood the “stet pro ratione voluntas,” and that not + very courteously given--but let that pass. + + The Government had an historical name, a great naval reputation, in + Keppel’s case. I beg to challenge contradiction to my statement. + + Keppel has added to his naval fame, he ranks among the bravest and + ablest captains in the British Fleet. + + It cannot be said of him that he has received any _honour_ for his + distinguished services in the chief command of the Naval Brigade. + + Many officers, when the list was published, and since the peace, + and the widows of officers who never saw a gun fired, have + received the K.C.B. who have no claim superior to his; do not + misunderstand me, that I express any disapprobation that such + distribution has been made, I only wish to express the pain I + feel--that services less than his have been considered by the + Government as deserving of a higher reward. + + The Government intends to place before the public men deserving of + its respect when these honours are conferred. + + In giving to the immediate predecessor in the same command and + before the final victory the K.C.B., and withholding it from + Keppel, the Government inflicts a stigma on Keppel as being + unworthy to receive that which is bestowed upon his immediate + predecessor. + + I do assure you that extreme surprise and regret are freely + expressed by the highest, the ablest, and by a numerous body of the + navy at this unmerited stigma. + + Keppel does not know of my writing this letter to you. I have known + him from a child. I am deeply pained at the publick disparagement. + + The recent demonstration at Portsmouth shows the estimation in + which he is held by both services. Why should the Government ignore + his merit? + + Will you, as an old friend, give me some explanation? + + On 27th August I received the following from Panmure:-- + + “MY DEAR STEENIE--The only bone between us is removed. I have taken + the Queen’s pleasure in making Harry Keppel K.C.B.--Yours + + (Signed) PANMURE.” + + God bless you, my dear Harry. + Ever your most devoted brother, + HY. FRED. STEPHENSON. + +[I hope I may be excused for inserting this letter, but I can honestly +declare that I had forgotten its existence until the present moment, +27th June 1898, when in turning over a heap of bygone manuscripts I +came across it by accident. + + H. K.] + +[Sidenote: Nov. 3.] + +Took leave of my kind host and hostess. 4 P.M., embarked on board +_Madras_ (P. and O.) hired transport; weighed at sunset. + + * * * * * + +Left the _Madras_ at Suez by rail to Cairo; wheels running on inverted +iron saucers about five feet in diameter. Embarked at Alexandria on +board P. and O. _Ripon_ for Southampton. Among passengers was Mrs. +Moir, the widow of a doctor who had been killed by the mutineers, six +hundred miles up country. She lost one of her children in her flight, +but found it at Calcutta in the care of a friend who had picked the +child up on the road. Lieutenant Campbell was also a passenger. He had +made a wonderful escape from the mutineers at Fyzabad. The mutiny and +its horrors, hairbreadth escapes of our friends, the courage of the +English women, and the heroic work of Colin Campbell, Henry Havelock, +Outram, Windham, and many more gallant soldiers, was the only subject +of conversation on board the steamer. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 6.] + +On December 6 arrived at Southampton. Joined invalid wife at Bognor. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +At Holkham; where we remained until end of year. + + + + +CHAPTER LXIX + +ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1858. Jan. 1.] + +After a few days between brother Edward and friend Eyre we arrived +in London. Brother Stephenson, as deputy-ranger, placed the lodge in +Hyde Park at my disposal, which exactly suited the poor invalid. The +approaching wedding of the Princess Royal with Prince Frederick William +of Prussia caused the early winter months to be unusually gay. I hardly +like to mention the names of those who were kind to me under the +delusion that I had taken care of their sons in China. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +Was at the state ball, Buckingham Palace, previous to the royal +wedding, which took place on 25th. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +Dined with Her Majesty, Buckingham Palace. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +Dined with Rajah Brooke. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 21.] + +The hunting season was now in full force. Having invested with Tilbury +for the hire of a couple of horses, “Alice” and “General,” with groom, +at £30 a month, he to replace lame ones; off to my nephew Edward Coke, +owner of Longford in Derbyshire. Determined frost, giving me time to +examine horses; both appeared well up to my weight, and good jumpers. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 26.] + +Wenny Coke put in an appearance. Frost continued the next ten days, +making me wish Mr. Tilbury had the horses in his own keeping. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +Change of wind, but none of weather. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +Rode Alice to Ingestre. Kindly welcomed by my old friend Shrewsbury. +Took up my quarters. Walter Talbot staying here. Fine old place this +Ingestre--peacocks about. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Taken to dine with the High Sheriff, P. Williams, at Stafford. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +Ditto weather. Rode General with Walter Talbot to Bifield, Lord +Bagot’s. Cokes there, and Grosvenors--Lady Constance, Di Coke, very +pretty. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +Returned to London. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Dined with Admiral Rous, a pleasure often enjoyed. His parties were +always sporting, I never missed a race within reasonable distance. My +good elder brother could not understand why I was so fond of “seeing a +fool in red riding after a rogue in yellow.” + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Was getting into the train at Portsmouth, when my faithful old +coxswain, Spurrier, stopped me with, “Think I have found Lord Gilford’s +watch.” During the two minutes of the train’s starting, he explained +that last evening his wife was in one of the numerous haberdasher shops +in Portsea; a well-dressed woman came in and wanted a smart yacht shirt +for her friend. On being shown the usual seaman’s shirt, she wanted +something much smarter; her man had a gold watch and chain that he was +proud of, and that Admiral Keppel had given him a cheque for £10 only a +few days before. Poor women! how fast their little tongues will run. + +[Illustration: _Suspicious Junks._] + +The giving the cheque I perfectly remember, as well as the man I +gave it to. To go back for a few months before the little affair of +the Fatshan Creek. The splendid crew of the _Raleigh_ were divided +into cruising boats and captured many suspicious Chinese junks, some +laden with cargo; but owing to the scarcity of interpreters they were +generally condemned and their property confiscated. In the end the +prizes amounted to a sum of money: not much, if divided among all the +ships, but a nice little bonus for the captors. On my being promoted +and ordered home, the captors of strings of pice agreed that I should +take charge of the money, converted from pice into sterling bills, +which I was to divide, as I thought proper, among the wounded or most +deserving characters invalided home. A man belonging to my wounded +boat’s crew was one of the recipients. + +On arriving in London I went to Lord Clanwilliam’s house in Belgrave +Square and ascertained the number of the gold chronometer watch he +had given to his son on leaving England. The bill, receipted, was +soon found. I then had to find my friend Sir Richard Mayne, the Chief +of Police. He found an intelligent detective, to whom I gave my late +coxswain’s address at Portsea. + +[Sidenote: April.] + +Three days afterwards, leaning over the rails in Hyde Park, a +suspicious-looking character, whose appearance I did not quite approve, +rapped me on the shoulder and beckoned me to join him. Great was my +relief when he informed me he had Lord Gilford’s watch. Getting him +to accompany me to Belgrave Square, on the way he informed me that he +had gone to Spurrier’s house; they went together to the shop where the +girl had bought the shirt, but they had seen no more of her. Walking +back, although dusk, Mrs. Spurrier spotted the girl on the opposite +side of the street. The detective accidentally placed himself, in a way +they have, and seeing a respectable girl asked if she had relations +in the Navy--the Admiralty had sent him down to seek proper objects +for employment. I need not say that in a few minutes he had the state +and condition of the man with the yacht shirt. His respectable parents +lived on the Isle of Wight, etc. The next day detective found his way +to the parents’ house and had an interview. On his way back he met +Jack in the best of spirits rolling along; after a few minutes’ talk +the detective abstracted the watch saying, “No. 8471: the one I was +looking for.” Two assistants crossed over from the opposite side. By +this time we were at Belgrave Square. Lord Clanwilliam much pleased; +also poor Lady Clanwilliam, who was an invalid, but her pleasure was +followed by distress as to what would become of the poor wounded man. +I proposed to her Ladyship that I should return the watch to the poor +fellow and her regrets for the trouble she had given him! When I got +below, the detective told me that the man would be brought up before +the magistrates on the Wednesday following. If no witnesses appeared he +would be discharged. A tenner from Lord Clanwilliam to the detective +ended the business. Curious that a watch stolen in China, April 20, +1857, should have been recovered by a detective in Portsea in the same +month of this year. + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Visit to Lord George Lennox at his “Bleak House,” Southsea. While +there, was invited to the charming Goodwood for a few days. + +[Sidenote: April 22.] + +At United Service Club we entertained the Duke of Malakoff at dinner. +The _Raleigh’s_ crew had meanwhile arrived at Chatham. The dog, Mike, +in addition to his performance at Fatshan, was at the storming of +Canton, where he had a scaling-ladder to himself and wore two medals. +His appearance was enough to clear the battery; the Chinamen fled, +except those stopped by bullets. Lord Lansdowne was fond of dogs as +well as music. At his request had Mike brought up from Chatham, and +he was much admired. He had been given me by Captain Michael Quin, +hence his name, who was paying off while _Raleigh_ was fitting out +at Plymouth. Mike was unhappy away from a ship. He was returned to +Chatham, and attended working parties on shore: I had not the heart to +remove him. The months April, May, and June brought me into a society +to which I had been unaccustomed. Although I enjoyed it, it hardly +comes within a sailor’s life. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +Attended Her Majesty’s ball. + + * * * * * + +As the following is copied from an old engagement book and can interest +near relations only, I advise my readers to skip this and try next +chapter. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +My pretty niece Annie Garnier married Colonel Edward Newdigate. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +Cheery dinner at “The Ship,” Greenwich--Admiral Milne, James Blyth, +Charles Eden, and Colonel F. Campbell. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +Dined, Skinner’s Company. + +[Sidenote: June 5.] + +Lady Palmerston’s evening. + +[Sidenote: June 6.] + +Dined with Duchess of Richmond. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +Dined with Lady Downs. + +[Sidenote: June 11.] + +Dinner with Merchant Taylors. + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +Dined with Sir John Thorolds. Evening, Duchess of Norfolk. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +70 Cranbury Park for Bibury Races, with Tom Chamberlain. Have not time +to describe the place here, but in it were four beautiful pictures +by Romney of Lady Hamilton. Chamberlain’s son was in the Balaklava +charge. On the retreat his horse was shot under him. He quietly took +the saddle off, put it on his head for a protection, and calmly walked +into camp. My sister Caroline, who was staying with her father-in-law +at Bishopstoke, wrote me about a pretty cottage for sale. On my +arrival there I found a small sylph swinging on the entrance gate, a +daughter of Mr. Peter Wells. I bought the place, with some good Italian +furniture, for £1500. There was a full-length picture by Swenton of +a beautiful lady, occupying one end of the dining-room: this was the +mother of my young friend Zöe on the gate (now Lady Brougham and Vaux). +The lady was one of a handsome family, such as artists delighted in; +the background of the picture was of trees, painted at Windsor Forest. + +[Sidenote: May 16.] + +Dined with H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge. + +[Sidenote: May 20.] + +Dined with Fred Gye, lessee of the Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden. +At his charming house near the Thames one met a varied society--Prince +Leiningen, Prince and Princess Victor of Hohenlohe, the Countess +Gleichen, Meyerbeer, statesmen, authors, painters, singers, actors: +it was indeed a cheery centre. After dinner we always adjourned for +dessert to a glass room 120 feet long, delightfully cool in summer, +flowers and plants growing; the ladies left the table to sit further +away in this same room. Gye used to give me passes to the theatres. +I was one night arranging baskets of flowers between banks, where +fairies were supposed to be resting, when the curtain suddenly ran +up faster than I could get to the wings. But though he was a stern +disciplinarian “behind,” Gye forgave me. + +Poor Gye’s terrible fate is fresh in my memory. He was shot +accidentally while on a visit to Lord Dillon, and died near the covert +side: sportsman that he was, he always wished to be buried in one. His +sons have all made their mark. The eldest, whom we used to call the +“Baron,” married Madame Albani and went on with operatic management. +Percy is a judge. Herbert went into the Navy and served on the China +station under me in 1869. Another son was in the Artillery. His +daughter, Clara, I often see. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: June 23.] + +Dined with Lord Alfred Churchill. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +Evening, Lady Palmerston. Dinner, Sir Anthony Rothschild. + +[Sidenote: June 28.] + +Balls at Duchess of Hamilton’s and Lady Caroline Maxe’s. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +Dined with Sir William Middleton. Evening, Lady Pigot’s. During summer +had been improving my pretty, but small place at Bishopstoke, on the +bank of the river Itchen. The place suited me down to the ground. The +stabling, which I rebuilt, was perfection. + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Dinner with Mr. Newdigate at Blackheath. + +[Sidenote: July 1.] + +Dinner at Navy Club, entertaining First Lord. + +[Sidenote: July 4.] + +Luncheon, Duchess of Somerset. Dined with Lord Methven. + +[Sidenote: July 5.] + +Dinner with Duke of Newcastle. Evening party, Duchess of Manchester. + +[Sidenote: July 6.] + +Review at Aldershot. + +[Sidenote: July 7.] + +Lady Mayoress’s reception. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +Luncheon with Ranelagh. Dinner, Lord Sandwich. Evening, Lady Jersey. + +[Sidenote: July 9.] + +Early dinner, Lady de Clifford. Later to Cremorne Gardens. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +Lunch, Lady Shelley. + +[Sidenote: July 11.] + +Dinner Admiral Walcott. Party Lady Rokeby, and ball at Duchess of +Wellington’s. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +[Sidenote: Cherbourg, Aug. 5.] + +Among friends I always received kind welcome on board Sir Thomas +Whichcote’s schooner yacht _Enchantress_. Towards the end of the season +I was with him at Cherbourg, where we had gone to witness the Naval +Fêtes, and the inauguration of the new railway. Her Majesty and the +Prince Consort arrived on the 4th August, accompanied by Lords of the +Admiralty and a brilliant staff. Received by the Emperor Napoleon III. +and Empress Eugenie. The next morning, at breakfast time, I took up the +newspaper and read the sudden death on 30th July, at the Earl of Fife’s +Seat, of my beloved brother-in-law, Stephenson. + +To be alone in my grief, I landed and strolled by the side of the road +up the hill to the high ground. As if to distract my thoughts, I met +a French cavalry regiment marching up, their brass band playing “Rule +Britannia.” Was off by the 4 P.M. steamer to join my poor sister Mary, +who with her children was staying at Folkestone. The death had indeed +been sudden, heart complaint, while sitting up in bed. + +[Sidenote: Sept.] + +September found me shooting with Sir Thomas Whichcote at Ashwarby in +Lincolnshire. + +[Sidenote: Ashwarby Park, Sept. 28.] + +Beautiful day and lots of birds--wild, of course, they always are. With +our four guns bagged 180 partridges, 18 hares, 1 rabbit--making 199 +head. Whichcote did things well; as kind a host as man could have. A +good hot luncheon. Ditto dinner. Very jolly. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 29.] + +Another fine day. Same party; bagged 204 partridges, 18 hares, 1 +rabbit. Haunch of venison for lunch and other good things. + +[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Sept. 30.] + +Dirty weather with rain. Held up late, but high wind. Same party; 131 +head of game. Much pleased at receiving a letter from Lord Palmerston +stating he had recommended me to Her Majesty for the appointment of +Groom-in-Waiting. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Better weather, but high wind. Still lots of birds. Same four guns; 200 +partridges, 17 hares, 1 rabbit--218 head! Finish to four good days’ +sport, to say nothing of the evening meal. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 2.] + +Party breaking up. Freke and I in dogcart to Lincoln. I to London. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +Up from Portsmouth. Put up at Westbourne Terrace. There had been some +cases of smallpox near my chambers. Wandered about. Tabooed for fear of +infection. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +By 11 A.M. train to Bishopstoke. Found sister Caroline and family at +the Dean’s. Forgot all about the smallpox and embraced the children! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Busy rearranging Bishopstoke. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +By afternoon train to Southsea. Received by George Lennox at Bleak +House. Party to dinner. The good George Greys, etc. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +Went over to Ryde by 12 o’clock boat. Back with George Lennox to see +the Michael-Seymours before dinner. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 25.] + +By 11 A.M. train to Bishopstoke. Dean off again to Rooksbury. Sleep +to-night in our own cottage. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +By train to Southampton. Met George Lennox. Went on board _Pasha_, a +Sultan’s yacht, very gaudy. On board _Ripon_, starting for Alexandria +with Indian passengers. George Lennox back with me to Bishopstoke. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +George Lennox off to Portsmouth, and I to Sir Francis Barings at +Stratton. Found Pelhams and Nevilles. Tom Baring and wife. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +Should have had some good shooting had the leaves been off the trees. +Six guns; 110 head. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 19.] + +George Lennox and I in Gilman’s carriage to Winchester; great luncheon +at the Dean’s. Party there. Lord Palmerston from Broadlands. Garniers +from Rooksbury. Gilman taking us back to Bishopstoke. By train to +Portsmouth. Put up at George Lennox’s. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 23.] + +Business at Admiralty. Dined with Rodney Mundy’s mother; nice cheery +old lady. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +By 4.30 train to Godstone. Found Rajah recovering from his sad +paralytic stroke. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +Took early leave of Brooke. Returned to Bishopstoke. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26.] + +Found invitation to dine at Broadlands; unluckily for yesterday. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +Colliers to dine. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +By 3 P.M. train to London. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +To Westbourne Terrace. Seconded resolution made by Bishop of Oxford +on Gospel in China. Meeting at Willis’s Rooms. Much amused at Strand +Theatre. Our Marie Wilton a little darling. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +By Great Western to Berkeley Castle, to Admiral Sir Maurice Berkeley. +Extraordinary old place. Not all the conveniences of modern houses, +but made up for in association. Castle wall left as knocked down by +Cromwell. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +Mounted by Sir Maurice. Well appointed pack. Huntsmen and whips, etc., +dressed in yellow velveteen. Best run of the season; I mounted on “Lord +William.” Mrs. Berkeley and Mrs. A’Court to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 5.] + +Afternoon, inspected twenty-seven good hunters. Hounds out for a walk. +Handsome pack. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 7.] + +By special train. Hounds and all, horses, servants, etc., to +Gloucester. Meet about five miles beyond. Mounted on Pearce’s small +black horse. Good hunter. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Capital mount by Armytage on one of his “jobs” from Carey. First-rate +run and I in good position throughout. Baring of Cheltenham arrived. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +Baring, Armytage, and I hedgerow shooting. Sport not much. Mrs. and +Miss Canning arrived; very tall. Mrs. Berkeley charming. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Shooting to-day something more like; plenty of foxes too. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +Mount again on Pearce’s little black horse. Carried me right well +throughout a longish day, one fall into a lane. Have greatly enjoyed my +visit to Berkeley Castle. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 13.] + +By early train to get across to Peterboro’ and Huntingdon. On a visit +to Hinchingbrook. Colonels Knox and Vyse and wife, Annie Lady Montagu, +and niece Emily Leeds, etc. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Shooting order of the day. Six guns; 189 head. Duke of Manchester good +shot. The charming Duchess came to dine. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 15.] + +Mounted by Lord Sandwich to meet Lord Fitz-William’s hounds. Fog too +thick to draw a fox. Provoking--uncommon well mounted. The Manchesters +left. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 18.] + +Up early, mounted by Lord Sandwich, to breakfast at Kimbolton. Lord +Cowper there. To meet the Oakley. Did not find till late. Left to ride +22 miles home. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Mounted by Sandwich to meet the Cambridgeshire. Nasty wooded country. +Foxes, but no getting away. Rode to station and returned to London by +1.30. Dined with Rokeby. Met the Manchesters. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +By 3 P.M. train to Bishopstoke; lost my purse between station and home, +containing £9: 10s. Horrid bore! + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Spent Christmas at Bishopstoke. + + + + +CHAPTER LXX + +ENGLAND--GROOM-IN-WAITING + + +[Sidenote: 1859. Jan. 1.] + +Saw the New Year in at the Southampton Yacht Club House with George +Lennox, having dined on board Turner’s yacht. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Received enclosed:-- + + (COPY.) + + BROADLANDS, _18th January 1859_. + + MY DEAR ADMIRAL KEPPEL--If you should happen to be disengaged on + Thursday, would you come over to us on that day and stay and help to + beat a cover on Friday.--Yours sincerely, + (Signed) PALMERSTON. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +To Broadlands. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +At Broadlands, shooting. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 4.] + +Dined with the Gilmans, meeting my old friend Pereira of Dent’s House, +Hong-Kong. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +Wife and I by train to Winchester. The good Dean sending to meet us. +Party to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 19.] + +To Winchester to appeal against property being assessed at £80, when it +was £50. Gained appeal. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 21.] + +Augustus Leeds brought over the sad news of Lady Sandwich’s sudden +death. Sad indeed! Planted a couple of deodars on bank of river. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 28.] + +Train to Winchester. Dean entertaining judges and grand jury at dinner. + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 2.] + +Dressed at my tailor’s; attended Her Majesty’s levée. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 3.] + +By train to Sleaford and Ashwarby--Whichcote sending for me. Got two +hunters from Percival at Lincoln. Welby to stop. + +[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Mar. 4.] + +Meet the Duke of Rutland’s hounds at Haverholm, occupied by the Dowager +Lady Winchilsea, the beautiful Fanny Rice. Short runs with two foxes. +Bad scenting day; ground dry and hard. Got one cropper! + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +No hunting. After luncheon another walk. Looked over ground, where some +rasping jumps had been taken. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 6.] + +Marquis of Tweeddale kindly placed his horses at my disposal. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 7.] + +Hounds met at Glinn, Welby’s place. The Drummonds and many friends +there. Killed two foxes; but a bad scenting day. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +Meet at Fulbeck--Reverend Fane’s. Rode Percival’s horse, wilful brute; +though a good jumper. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +Meet at Turner’s. Mount from Lord Tweeddale, in addition to my +Percival; a short run in afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Took leave of Tom Whichcote, etc. He appears to have everything a man +could wish. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Arrived at North Creake for wedding. Miss North and her sister +Catherine, and their cousin, Sara North, splendid girl of seventeen. + +[Sidenote: North Creake, Mar. 15.] + +Party increased by George and Augusta Keppel. Twenty-two to dinner. +Everything well arranged. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Auspicious day arrived--sun shining, fourteen bridesmaids. Edward +performed. Stand-up breakfast, seventy or eighty attending. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +General dispersion. Took up abode with Astleys: she charming. Two Miss +Lee-Warners and Bobby Hammond to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +Mounted by Astley with Lord Hastings’ harriers: very good fun. Mrs. +Astley’s riding first-rate: she does everything well. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +Train to Diss. Met there by brother Edward. Dogcart to Quidenham; +friend Edward and Mrs. Eyre to meet me at dinner. + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 25.] + +Eyre and wife taking me to Harling Station. To London. Dressed at Four +Swans, and dined at Fishmongers’ Hall. Had to return thanks for the +Navy. Put up at friend Dunn’s, Lowndes Square. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Dined with Clarence Paget. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +By 11 train, meeting Mark Wood at King’s Cross. To Grantham. Walked +to Syston. Party, Lord and Lady Middleton, two Miss Reynardsons, Miss +Beaumont and brother, Reynardson, Wood, Gibbs, Hillyard and his wife, +Cole, Fox, and Whichcote. Jolly. Cook, first-rate. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +A regular fall of snow. Party hunting nevertheless. Grantham Hunt Ball +good fun. Went with the Misses Fane. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 31.] + +Great meet of the Belvoir Hounds; with Thorolds in their brougham. +Mounted on a roarer, saw part of a very good run. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +Croxton Park Races. Show of vehicles from Syston. Box seat with +Reynardson on his drag. Races fair, and weather as usual. Bitter cold. +Picked up £15. + +[Sidenote: April 2.] + +Finish to an agreeable week at Syston. + +[Sidenote: April 4.] + +I never had time to attend to politics, but born of a Whig family +throw in my chance with kind friend and honest politician, Sir Francis +Baring. Stood with him for Portsmouth. After a week’s chaffing and +riotous living, I found myself at bottom of poll! The difference +between Whig and Tory now: one is dead, and the other extinct! + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +At Lord Denbigh’s. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +With Dunne and party to the great Derby race. Won by Hawley’s “Musjid.” +Dressed and went to Her Majesty’s concert. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +On return from Epsom found at club telegraphic message of my wife’s +sudden illness. Arrived at Bishopstoke 11 P.M. The poor wife had a fit +at 6; unconscious since. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +A succession of fits during the day. My true friend Eyre here in answer +to telegraph. + +[Sidenote: June 5.] + +Georgina Crosbie arrived in evening an hour before the sad end. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +What could I have done without friend Eyre? + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +The last sad ceremony performed by the Dean of Winchester in the Parish +Church. Her brother William and two sisters, my clergyman brother, +Edward and Reverend Edward Eyre attended, and the good Rajah Brooke had +a bouquet laid on the coffin. + +[Sidenote: July 9.] + +Welcome to Larling from friend Eyre. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +At Quidenham Parsonage with Edward. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +Misfortunes never come singly. From Bombay hear of Sussex Stephenson’s +serious illness. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXI + +IN WAITING + + +[Sidenote: 1859. Osborne, Sept. 22.] + +First appearance as Groom-in-Waiting at Osborne. Her Majesty, with +the Prince Consort, had gone to Balmoral, leaving the younger Royal +children, Prince Leopold and Princess Beatrice, in charge of Lady +Caroline Barrington. Never was an Admiral who felt so proud of being a +groom. Lady Caroline came of a stately family. As we walked into dinner +I felt myself smaller than I really was. + +[Sidenote: Sept. to Oct.] + +Carriages and steamers were at her ladyship’s disposal; it was +interesting to see how quickly the charming young Prince learned to +acknowledge the sentries’ salutes as we passed. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 4.] + +Delightful as the land excursions were in that beautiful island, I felt +more at ease when her ladyship proposed a trip on board the _Fairy_ +steam-yacht commanded by my friend D. Welch, who handled her as if she +had been a jolly-boat. We went into Southampton Docks at a pace which +puzzled me. Lady Caroline kindly proposed a trip in carriages up to +my pretty cottage at Bishopstoke, where I had the honour of providing +tea. H.R.H. the Duchess of Kent was residing at Norris Castle. Lady +Caroline and myself went three evenings in the week to make up a rubber +of whist. H.R.H. was the only person who always lost. We were paid in +the brightest shillings, polished for the occasion. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +My term of waiting was only too soon over; I was relieved by Colonel +Cavendish. + +[Sidenote: Windsor Castle, Dec. 27.] + +I was again in waiting at Windsor Castle, having relieved Colonel +Kingscote. Adjoining me were Captain du Plat, Equerry to the Prince +Consort; and Captain George Henry Grey, Equerry to the Prince of +Wales; these young men were old friends and agreeable companions. I +took my two hunters and put them up at Windsor. Everything was new and +interesting to me. Late, when we retired, my friends the Equerries +kindly came to my room to enjoy their smoke. In the mornings we used to +assemble in the corridor, and there wait for orders, riding, shooting, +or whatever was going on. + +One morning the Equerries were wanted to attend H.R.H., while I had +permission to amuse myself, which I did by a ride in Windsor Great +Park. It appeared that the Prince Consort, having bought some pictures +in London, wanted a fit place to hang them. Passing through the +Equerries’ rooms, H.R.H. came to mine. I was, as stated, out riding. +The Prince immediately smelt smoke, and remarked, “The little Admiral +told me he did not smoke.” My friends only smiled, H.R.H. was never +undeceived! Once, when riding was the order of the day, I rode my best +hunter. On crossing one of the streams, the Prince of Wales proposed +that I should try my horse over the river instead of the bridge. I got +over, but my horse made an over-reach and struck my right heel, which +gave me pain. It was in 1840, when my father was Master of the Horse, +that a boy was found concealed in a room adjoining Her Majesty’s. Since +then, it had been the custom, when Her Majesty was about to retire, +for the Groom-in-Waiting to precede, and see the coast clear. My foot +gave me pain, and I had taken up a spot in advance, when these horrid +Equerries, whom I had not forgiven about the smoke, picked me up, and +having planted me in the right place, disappeared. I made a proper bow +when Her Majesty passed, and almost forgave my playfellows about the +smoke! The Prince Consort had introduced the Christmas Tree, and we +used to dance the Old Year out and the New Year in, to the tune of the +“Old English.” When the clock struck twelve, the band suddenly struck +up “God Save the Queen.” Everybody was very hot, and everybody kissed +his partner except myself. I had the honour of dancing with Her Royal +Highness the Princess Louise. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXII + +THE CAPE COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1860. Jan. 1.] + +At Windsor Castle. Ladies-in-Waiting--Lady Caroline Barrington, Hon. +Mrs. Bruce, and Lady Ely, while the Maids of Honour were Hon. Beatrice +Byng and Hon. Emily Cathcart. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Shooting with the Prince Consort were the Prince of Wales and Duke +of Cambridge, while in attendance were Colonel F. H. Seymour, +Major-General Hon. R. Bruce, Captain George Grey, Colonel Clifton, and +myself. Earl de Grey was of the party. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 10.] + +Finished my turn in waiting by hunting with the Prince Consort’s +harriers. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +To Berkeley Castle. Kind welcome from Sir Maurice and Lady Charlotte. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +Hounds met at Sir G. Jenkins’s, who gave me a good breakfast. Woodland +country; plenty of foxes killed. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +Wild-goose shooting: novel and interesting, but hard work. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +Hunted from Berkeley Castle. Colonel “the giant” in great force. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +Daily hunting; foxes often found in trees! + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24.] + +My appointment to Cape command. By rail to London; put up with sister +Mary Stephenson. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +_Forte_, commissioned by Captain E. Turnour; Commander V. C. Buckley +joined. Officers and men joined by end of week. Ship being manned by +drafts from various ports; not allowed to enter seamen for ourselves. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +Sunset, hoisted flag, white at mizzen. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +Saluted flag of Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Edward Harvey. Issued +contract; made clothing according to recent regulations, hats included: +a mistake. + +[Sidenote: March.] + +Had some difficulty in getting Admiralty to exchange the heavy old +launches for the new forty-foot pinnaces which are now supplied to all +other ships. Considerable difference in the stowage of this ship and +that of the _Raleigh_. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Joined Marquis of Queensberry, naval cadet, and Mr. Stephenson, mid. +Dockyard people building a small poop for the accommodation of the +captain, secretary and flag-lieutenant--the poop not to show above the +hammock netting, and not to occupy more of upper deck than just abaft +the after gun. Screw to be raised as in line-of-battleships: the best +arrangement under all circumstances that could be made. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Cabins had already been fitted for the conveyance of Sir George Grey +and staff. An order to prepare cabins for Lady Grey and maid, coming so +late, deprived me of half my accommodation. + +[Sidenote: April 3.] + +In consequence of Her Majesty’s kind consideration, attended at Windsor +as Groom-in-Waiting. + +[Sidenote: Windsor, April 5.] + +Attended confirmation of Prince Alfred. Lord George Lennox as Lord of +Bedchamber to the Prince Consort. + +[Sidenote: April 7.] + +_Forte_ left Sheerness for Spithead. Cheered by the Norfolk Militia. + +[Sidenote: April 10.] + +Prince of Wales left for the Continent, attended by Hon. R. Bruce and +Captain George Grey. + +[Sidenote: April 12.] + +My little happy holiday over, Her Majesty kindly hoping to see me back. +Rejoined _Forte_ at Spithead and rehoisted flag. Salutes exchanged with +Admiral Commander-in-Chief Wm. Bowles, C.B. Was informed that on way +round from Sheerness a leak was discovered in the screw aperture. + +[Sidenote: April 16.] + +Steamed into harbour; secured alongside _Sultan_ hulk. Transported guns +forward and all heavy weight to discover the leak. + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +Ship taken into steam basin, preparatory to being docked. In taking her +in, dockyard people managed to carry away jib-boom. No smoking allowed; +shifted ship’s company to _Victorious_ hulk. + +[Sidenote: April 21.] + +Hauled into No. 7 dock, dockyard people stopping leak. + +[Sidenote: April 23.] + +Hauled out of basin, only just in time, ship hung in entrance. Another +two minutes, and she must have grounded, as well as two three-deckers. +Sundry sheets of copper were rubbed off on port side. Obliged to heel +the ship to repair damage. + +[Sidenote: April 27.] + +Came to at Spithead. + +[Sidenote: April 28.] + +Noon, weighed, running for the Needles. + +[Sidenote: April 29.] + +10 P.M.--Came to in Plymouth Sound. + +[Sidenote: Plymouth, April 30.] + +Exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Sir Barrington +Reynolds, K.C.B. 3.30 P.M., having embarked His Excellency Sir George +and Lady Grey, Captains Speke and Grant, African travellers, friend +Boileau, and others, weighed and left the Sound. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +3 P.M.--Came to in Funchal Roads, Madeira. While steaming in exchanged +salutes 13 guns, with Flag-Officer Inman, whose flag, blue at the +mizzen, was flying on board United States corvette _Constellation_, +the first United States “Officer’s Flag” we had seen. Saluted also +the Portuguese flag with 21 guns, and English Consul Erskine on his +leaving the ship. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Ship was visited by Lord and Lady Fortescue and family, also my kind +friend of long standing, the late Consul, Mr. Stoddard. As soon as they +were landed, weighed and made sail. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +Celebrated Her Majesty’s birthday by a dinner on the poop. At 8 P.M. +that celebrated old beast, Neptune, hailed the ship, burning lights, +etc., and then came on board amidst the usual downfall of water, and +promised to pay his respects on the morrow to all such as had not +before passed through his dominions, comprising three-fourths of those +on board. He then took his departure for the night, to the relief of +some and inconvenience of all, amidst fire and water-works, the light +of his car being visible astern for an hour afterwards. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +His Oceanic Majesty came on board and performed the usual ceremony. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +10 A.M.--Steamed into Rio de Janeiro harbour. Returned salute from +_Madagascar_. While running in, and after coming to, had to return and +exchange no end of salutes. Brazilian Flag, 21 guns; Admiral’s salute, +13; French man-of-war brig, 13; and Prussian Commodore, 13. + +[Sidenote: Rio, June 4.] + +Passengers disembarked and proceeded to Petropolis. _Tribune_, 31, +Captain Geoffrey Hornby, arrived from Pacific and exchanged salutes. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +Passengers returned. Weighed and stood out of Rio harbour. + +[Sidenote: June 8.] + +12.5 P.M.--Henry Hill, seaman, fell overboard while the ship was going +10 knots under sails and steam. Cutter fitted with Clifford’s admirable +apparatus for lowering was down in the shortest time and the man saved. + +[Illustration: Forte _at Rio._] + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +An untoward event occurred during the first watch. Under extreme +pressure from Captain Turnour and the surgeon, who stated that the +Governor would either commit suicide or murder his wife, I consented +to return to Rio Janeiro, and reached that port on the evening of the +12th. Next morning, having landed the Governor, Lady Grey, and maid, +sent an officer to know when His Excellency would be ready to embark. +He sent word he was then ready, and that if I would not write home what +had occurred he would not. I kept _my_ word. + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +Sailed, and arrived at Simon’s Bay on 4th July, 8 P.M. His Excellency +was in such a hurry to convey to Admiral Sir Frederick Grey the fact +of his arrival, that, unseen, he dropped himself into a shore boat and +landed at Admiralty House. + +[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, July 5.] + +Landed, after usual salutes, to pay respects to Admiral Sir F. Grey. I +mentioned the Governor’s message to me at Rio, to the effect that if +I would not write home what had occurred he would not. I ascertained +that in his statement to Sir Frederick he made out that the proposition +not to communicate home came, in the first place, from me to him. This +untruth accounts for my subsequent treatment. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +The _Forte_ requiring a thorough refit, shifted flag to my friend +Captain Algernon de Horsey’s ship, the _Brisk_, and with our +travellers, Speke and Grant, prepared to visit the East Coast. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXIII + +CAPE COMMAND--FLAG IN _BRISK_ + + +[Sidenote: 1860. Monday, July 16.] + +Embarked with Flag-Lieutenant and Secretary. Hoisted flag on board +_Brisk_, Captain Algernon de Horsey. Received with yards manned. +Embarked Captains Speke and Grant, with his guard of 100 Hottentots, +volunteers from the Cape Mounted Rifles; also 12 mules, the Cape +Parliament having voted £300 to purchase them for the interesting +expedition. Sailed at sunset, leaving _Forte_ with Captain Turnour in +charge. Rounded to on signal. + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +3 P.M.--Came to in 9-1/2 fathoms off the mouth of Buffalo River. The +township of East London on the south entrance composed of storehouses +and other new and neat-looking buildings. At the end of a substantial +stone wharf stands a lighthouse to correspond--not mentioned in the +charts; it showed a bright fixed light. The town is communicated with +by a surf boat hauled to and fro over the bar by means of a hawser, one +end of which is attached to an anchor outside; as uninviting a coast to +approach as can be imagined. Should a railway or any good road for the +conveyance of the produce of the country be established to Algoa Bay, +the Port of East London may prove unworthy of the name it has assumed. +At 5 P.M. weighed, proceeded under sail. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +No observation yesterday, but those of to-day at noon showed that the +current for the last 48 hours had been south-west. 97 miles. Proceeded +making particular survey of coast. + +[Sidenote: July 26.] + +Came to at 4 P.M., in the magnificent Bay of Delagoa, about 7 miles +from the entrance of the river. Sent a boat in to communicate: but more +to ascertain what might be doing in the slave way. + +[Sidenote: Shefeen Island, July 27.] + +Landed at daylight on the Island of Shefeen; more for the purpose of +hauling the seine than shooting; nevertheless took my Whitworth rifled +carbine. Observing along the sand prints of a small cloven foot, which +I took to be that of the pig, Algie Heneage and I struck into the bush; +stunted trees, but in places tolerably clear underneath. At first there +was little to attract our attention beyond sundry paroquets and an +occasional pigeon, for the destruction of which we were not prepared. + +I fired once at some distance at what I imagined to be rabbits, +playing about at the edge of the jungle, but they were too nimble for +me. It was while on our return towards the beach, where we expected +a breakfast of fresh-caught fish, that a beautiful antelope bounded +across our path. It was large for an animal of that species, a dark +reddish-brown colour. I was now satisfied that the numerous footprints +that we had seen were not pig, but those of deer. The jungle being +too thick for us to beat, or even see many yards into, proposed that +we should conceal ourselves in any likely-looking shady spot, with +sufficient clear range for a fair shot. + +The ground was dry and the air clear of mosquitoes. We had been +quiet for about a quarter of an hour, when I observed an antelope +approaching, apparently unconscious of danger, nibbling the bits of +herb or grass that grew up between the dead leaves, when within twenty +paces of our position it stopped to feed, broadside towards us. It was +a full-grown doe. I observed her pretty head with its beautiful large +black eye, and not wishing to spoil what I intended to have stuffed as +a trophy, I raised my rifle and aimed, so as to hit her just behind the +shoulder. Heneage was ready, knife in hand, to cut her throat, when I +pulled the trigger; the lock snapped, and in a moment my beauty bounded +into the jungle. I had forgotten to put a cap on; the rifle was a +breechloader, to which I was hardly accustomed. Our disappointment can +well be imagined. + +We remained a short time longer in the same spot, hardly hoping that +anything else would come near us. Now these antelopes, with their +spindle legs and tiny feet, make no noise, but on looking in the +direction I observed a whole troop of small monkeys, whose curiosity +had brought them to ascertain who the intruders were who had so +disturbed the quiet of their domain. They had spread themselves over +some width of ground, and were advancing with all the caution of so +many diminutive riflemen. When within about fifty yards one of those in +advance made us out and gave notice. + +They came to “general halt,” which was followed by a general chatter, +and I could observe each small round head peeping from behind the stump +of bush or tree where it had taken shelter. Theirs were little black +faces, surmounted by a white fringe, which somewhat resembled the frill +of a woman’s cap. The body was green, belly white, and tail long; +however, as they did not appear inclined to make a further advance, +sent a bullet at the head of one who appeared to have the command, and +I was glad to find that I had only struck the stump of the bush behind +which he had concealed his active little carcass. + +Their curiosity having been gratified, they scampered away on all +fours, chattering and closing together as they went along. We never saw +them on either bushes or trees, which caused me to think that those +small things were the same sort I had a distant shot at in the morning, +and must have been monkeys and not rabbits. + +We soon shifted our berth some little distance to a spot affording a +tolerable range, considering the denseness of parts of the jungle, +and made ourselves comfortable, perhaps too much so, as after a while +I started from a reverie to a pinch from Algie, and from the quarter +pointed at could just see the round red back of an antelope moving +towards us. I held in my breath as it approached. Unfortunately I had +laid aside my rifle. The motion to lay hold of it was sufficient to +cause the creature to raise its head, and the noise of the loose steel +ring on the stock of the cavalry carbine made it dash into the bush, +where it was out of sight in an instant. + +It would be useless to describe the number of chances we had or the +number of deer we might have bagged if something had not happened. + +Our last chance occurred when we had agreed to take up positions on +separate mounds, covered with brush and stunted trees, two-thirds +round, about twenty yards in width, round which was a fair open space +of long grass. In less than half an hour we observed a fine antelope +come out of the jungle within ten yards of where I knew that Algie must +be lying. It stopped and looked about, and I saw that it was about the +size of a calf, but with the thinnest legs; so delicate and slender +as to appear unfit to support the round, plump body it had to carry. +Watched, expecting every moment to see the beautiful creature bound +into the air and fall to the report of Algie’s gun. However, it walked +leisurely--stepping a trifle lame with the near hind leg--across into +the opposite bank. + +I had my rifle to my shoulder, but Heneage had been so kind in allowing +me all the former chances, I thought it would not be doing the handsome +if I deprived him of this, the last and only one he would have. When +I inquired how he had come to allow so good an opportunity to pass, I +found he had just awoke from a pleasant sleep. + +We returned on board, amused and interested, but having had a blank +day, did not boast. De Horsey, in pulling up the Tenby river, saw +a hippopotamus, but he had no gun with him. The Governor informed +us that there were plenty of rhinoceros as well as elephant in the +neighbourhood. I noticed a magnificent pair of tusks in his room. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXIV + +EAST COAST SPORT + + +[Sidenote: 1860. Aug.] + +After leaving Delagoa Bay it was not much out of our way to pass the +small island of Europa, said to abound in turtle. + +[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.] + +We made it at about 9 P.M. on Thursday, August 2. The moon was at +its full. Although a partial eclipse darkened it for a while, by the +time we were off the north end of the island the moon shone out in +full splendour. It was thought that nothing would be easier than to +heave the ship to and send a boat in and bring off as many turtle as +we required. At 10 P.M. a party shoved off in the cutter, and shortly +afterwards Heneage, O’Rorke, and self left in the galley. + +We found a sea breaking on a reef that bounded the coast, but farther +to the west the breakers became smaller as we got under its lee. A +coral reef extending along the coast a full half mile from the shore +was clearly distinguishable. Watching our opportunity we got on to +shelving coral, it being dead low water, and then found that we had a +good quarter of a mile to haul her over water which varied from nothing +to six or eight feet with deep holes. However, these were made clear by +the light of the moon, and nothing was left but to haul the boat over, +or return on board. The water deepened into a comparatively clear +space between it and the shore, forming a sort of lagoon. The boat was +easily pushed through this, and we landed shortly after midnight. + +Leaving the remainder to light a fire and prepare for a night’s +bivouac, O’Rorke and self started along the beach to the westward to +look for turtle. Although there were the tracks of many in the sand, we +had travelled two miles before we came to marks that appeared fresh. A +large turtle had been coquetting about, as is their wont, in search of +a fit spot in the dry sand to deposit her cargo of eggs. + +In this instance, it was evident that the old lady had been difficult +to please, as after many turns and windings the track led again inland; +and sure enough, ten yards from the beach, then about eight inches +deep, appeared a small oval-shaped hillock, exposed by day to the heat +of the sun. It was evident, when we got alongside, the turtle was +sleeping away the time until the rising tide had lifted her high enough +to allow of her proceeding to sea for further amusement. + +The first she must have known of our presence was by the feel of our +hands under the outer edge of her shell--a sort of tickling under +the ribs--by which we endeavoured to turn her on her back. This she +resented by striking out with all four fins, and not only covering +O’Rorke with sand and water, but sending me sprawling on my back. +Luckily she was aground. + +O’Rorke started into the jungle, returning presently with two branches, +the best he could get, to act as levers, with which to turn her over. +This was a far more troublesome job than we expected. The weight of +the brute alone was 360 lbs., and the strength of the foremost fins +wonderful; however, after considerable twisting and manœuvring we +managed, with our levers, to get her off side to the edge of a hollow +about eight feet by six, and with this advantage, and a heave together, +we turned her over. There she lay on her back flapping wet sand, but +comparatively helpless. The tide was now rising, and there was nothing +left but for O’Rorke to return to where we had left the boat for +assistance, leaving me to manage the best I could. I suppose I am the +first Admiral who ever kept the middle watch on a turtle. As the sea +rose over the outer reef it came rolling in to where I was seated, and +as each roller lifted my charge she renewed her struggles to get rid of +me. Our object was to keep her head towards the sandy beach, which rose +rather abruptly, by inserting one end of the lever, which was crooked, +under her back and behind her fore fins when she raised herself up, +which she did whenever a roller came to her assistance. To prevent +her floating, I seated myself on her stomach. By these means I caused +her to heave herself in nearer the shore, but in doing this I got so +plastered with wet sand that I must have had the appearance of a small +pyramid. At another time she gave me such a slap on the knee, I thought +my leg was broken; the pain was great. + +I never had so troublesome a watch; it appeared to me O’Rorke had been +hours away, although the good fellow had run there and back. Having to +keep 360 lbs. weight struggling to save its embryo family from being +made into omelets, herself into “soups and steaks,” as I saw afterwards +chalked on her back, was no small undertaking. Nor can I describe my +delight when some of the boat’s crew hove in sight. Another struggle +with the brute and I must have given in or have been carried out to sea +holding on to the hind fins, like my friend King George of Tonga Tabu. + +[Illustration: _My middle watch._] + +Having secured our turtle, a further walk along the sandy beach, a bend +to the S.W. brought us within reach of unpleasant smells, and close to +a projecting point, within sight of the remains of a huge whale, from +which rats, by thousands, were rushing towards the jungle; when the +crabs, to say nothing of conger eels, cleared the bones of the monster, +they fell to the ground. + +We secured several joints of the backbone, which, when cleaned and +covered with canvas, were formed into curious camp stools, in my garden +at Bishopstoke. How the monster got where we found him, over the +half-mile of coral-bound coast, we wondered; unless the unfortunate +brute was thrown over the reef and stranded during one of those fearful +hurricanes which visit these latitudes. + +[Sidenote: Europa Island, Aug. 2.] + +The shooting was not much. There were some goats running wild; the sire +of this stock was described as a magnificent fellow, with an immense +beard and strong smell. A few pigeons were seen, but so unaccustomed +were they to the intrusion of human beings as to allow themselves, when +fatigued, to be chased from bush to bush, knocked over by stones or +sticks. The frigate birds, some black, visit these latitudes. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 3.] + +Much excitement was caused at low tide by our men chasing, between the +openings of the coral, rock cod, conger-eels, and parrot fish--the +latter of a brilliant green colour, some of them weighing four or five +pounds. + +[Sidenote: Mozambique, Aug. 7.] + +5 P.M.--Came to in Mozambique Harbour in 5-1/2 fathoms. A berth that +would suit the _Forte_. Care to be taken running in, in a long ship. +Saluted Portuguese flag. Like most Portuguese forts, on a grand scale, +but the guns are small and out of date; about 100 men. A few small +vessels at anchor. Trade small, principally in ivory, rhinoceros horns, +and ebony. Slaver in disguise. Was received by the Governor, Don Joao +Tavares de Almeida, who did me the honour of dining with me on board. +No Consul. One Don Joao de Costa Sourez most obliging. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 9.] + +7 A.M.--Weighed, made sail. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +Having been in these seas before, I cautioned Captain de Horsey to +keep a good look-out for slavers. We were running under sail with +light southerly winds, and proposed fires being lighted and banked up. +De Horsey was particular about desecrating the Sabbath, but in the +afternoon a sail was reported. Later she was made out from the masthead +standing to the eastward. I advised De Horsey to take his glass and see +for himself. + +Before he was half-way up the fore-rigging I gave the order to light +the fires. The smoke had no sooner ascended than the look-out on the +fore-top-gallant yard sang out, “She’s gone round without taking her +studding sails in.” The wind fell light by sunset. We stopped engines +under the stern of a fine rakish-looking ship. Lieutenant Adeane was +sent on board, and took possession of the _Manuela_, formerly the +_Sunny South_, a Rio packet of upwards of 702 tons. She had 846 slaves +on board, and was waiting to complete 900 before proceeding round +the Cape to Cuba. She had been hovering off the coast for weeks to +complete her cargo. We sent her into Pomony. I went on board, she was +a fine-looking ship, seven feet between decks. However, on looking down +the fore hatchway, the stench was intolerable. Sent prize in charge of +Lieutenant Burlton to the Mauritius. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXV + +ZANZIBAR--SHOOTING HIPPOPOTAMI + + +[Sidenote: 1860. Aug. 18.] + +Arrived at Zanzibar. Having expressed a wish to see the hippopotamus +in his native state, Speke, being aware of my weakness, kindly invited +me to accompany him to where sport was almost a certainty. It was +necessary to procure a dhow, on board which a party could live. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +Our proposed trip soon got wind. An unusual noise throughout Sunday +night on board the Sultan’s yacht was accounted for in the morning by +one Captain Mahomet informing us, which we had been well aware of, viz. +that he had been all the night bending sails, and half the morning +bastinadoing his crew; he stated he had received orders to convey me +across the channel. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 21.] + +From this infliction I, however, excused myself, as well as from that +of the company of the half-civilised, drunken rogue who commanded +her. Through the kind influence of Colonel Rigby, Luddah, a Banyan, +British subject, and head of the Customs, placed at our disposal a +new dhow, with a captain and fourteen Arabs. Hoping to expedite their +movements, Speke, Heneage, and myself embarked on Monday night, so as +to start early the following morning; but at that time we were not as +experienced in Arab movements as we have since been. It commenced +raining soon after we got on board, and on our taking shelter below we +found the deck overhead leaked, and the stench from the bilge water +sickening. We got under weigh at 10 A.M.; at 5 P.M. anchored in an +extensive bay off a village called Kesooku. About the bay were shoal +patches of sand and several small islands with mangrove bushes, over +the roots of which the tide flowed when up; it was on and about these +islands that we expected to find our game. + +We were welcomed to the village by a Bombay Banyan Chief. Having given +us a refreshing drink from green cocoanuts, he cleared out part of +a store hut for our accommodation. We made up our beds outside on +stretchers under the shade of the projecting roof. + +It appears that the habits of the hippopotami are to land at night for +food, betaking themselves to the retirement of the small islands before +break of day. Such unwieldy brutes cannot travel on shore without +leaving marks, by which they are easily traced, and generally return to +the water by the same paths. As they are never molested by the natives, +we thought we might intercept them before they went to rest, and +intended to be up at 3 o’clock, but it rained and our native servants +neglected to call us. We went later to try for guinea-fowl, which were +said to be plentiful and excellent eating. A covey of them was seen but +not got at. + +Our next plan was to proceed to the patches of islands in the bay, so +as to reach them before low water, about which time our experienced +friend, Speke, considered that the hippopotami would be more likely to +be caught napping or basking in the mud. We approached the islet with +caution. + +[Illustration: _A right and left shot._] + +I shall not forget the first wild hippopotamus I saw: a huge ugly +brute, standing up to his middle in water, apparently indifferent to +our approach, until within fifty yards, when he moved leisurely towards +some rocks where the water was deep and disappeared. On rounding the +rocks, we opened on an extended sand-flat and observed several Sibuko, +half in the water, with one fine fellow standing separate. To the left, +and within forty yards of him, was a small clump of trees. As soon as +our boat grounded, took up my position, as prearranged, on that side, +and stalking under shelter of bushes, got pretty close, with a rest for +my gun. Speke and Heneage had spread out to the right, so as to cut off +his retreat that way to the sea. Within forty yards, when I thought +they were quite ready, I fired _my first shot_. The monster seemed +more astonished than hurt, although a stream of blood from the side of +his neck showed where my ball had told. While he hesitated, the others +broke away in a parallel direction to that I was moving in. They were +close together, the head of the Hippo nearest to me being a little in +rear of the shoulder of his companion. Had my double-barrel smooth-bore +ready. It does not often fall to the lot of man to get right and left +shots at a brace of hippopotami. I took the nearest; hit him just +behind the ears, struck the spine, and brought him on his knees. The +thick skull of the other turned my second ball. + +Instead of dropping, as I expected, he took a survey of the ground, +hesitated a minute, eyed his dying chum, and made a rush to the path +where I stood. With all due deference, I made a move out of his way, +fell backward, gun going off. + +Before I was on my legs I heard Speke’s gun: Sibuko had had his +quietus. I now seated myself on the root of a tree near where my first +Sibuko lay; while contemplating the monster, I felt a drop of blood +on the back of my hand, and looking up, found that I had shot the +dark native who carried my spare ammunition, he having taken refuge +when the Hippo No. 2 made his charge in my direction. We got the poor +fellow down, moaning and crying; found the ball had passed through the +fleshy part of his thigh without touching the bone. The next day he was +taken across to the hospital. After a few days and a small donation he +was ready and willing to be shot at again! The dead Sibuko was given +the natives to eat: it was curious to see how cleverly they cut the +flesh, or rather the fat, before taking the skin off, beginning at the +backbone and cutting straight down in strips about four inches square, +apparently to me of solid fat, and portioned according to the number +in a greedy family. Of course I retained the head, which, with the +other, was recovered from the natives and buried in the hot sand; after +a few days they were taken out sweet and clean, the latter operation +performed by white ants. They now occupy, or ought to, a place in the +Winchester Museum. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXVI + +ZANZIBAR + + +[Sidenote: 1860. Aug. 24.] + +Returned to Zanzibar; found _Brisk_ absent in search of a slaver that +had landed a man on the island who was made prisoner by the Sultan, and +afterwards sent on board with a request that he might be given up to +the Spanish Consul. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +_Brisk_ returned with the prisoner, who stated himself to be the +doctor; pretended to know nothing about his movements, although he +told a different story to the slaver’s friend, the Consul of Imperial +France. Fresh water on the island: good, although the streams for +watering at inconvenient distances. By proper application through +Colonel Rigby, our obliging Consul, natives, or rather slaves, can be +sent to bale the water to fill the casks. Fruit and vegetables were +given for the ship’s company daily. + +Found the Sultan kind and obliging; he had a large stud of arabs, and +when he found that I could ride, presented me with a couple, whose +pedigrees, drawn up in Arabic, commenced some eighty years ago. I got +the good Consul to explain that I had no place to put them in. A few +days after His Highness presented me with a handsome gold-mounted +sabre, with which I was well pleased. On my exhibiting it to my +Secretary he admired it as much as I did, but on referring to the +station order-book, on no account was an officer permitted to receive a +present or presents from any foreign authority. + +Here was a nice mess! I went to Colonel Rigby to ask him to return the +sword and apologise. He said such a thing was impossible; it would not +be understood: in fact, almost made me to understand that it would be a +_casus belli_! I had the sword wrapped in cotton and stated the case to +the Board of Admiralty. 1860. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +4 P.M.--Sailed from Zanzibar, giving the good Sultan a parting salute. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +Took pilot. Stood into Port Mahé, all dangers, rocks and shoals being +visible under a bright sun. Anchored in 10 fathoms. All large timber +had long been cut down--underwood, the sweetest cedar. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 16.] + +Communicated with our prize, the _Manuela_, at anchor off Flat Island. +Came to off the Bell Buoy, Mauritius. I was last here in the _Tweed_ in +April 1829. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +Prize arrived from Flat Island. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +_Brisk_ having got on shore off the east coast in February sustained +some damage, which rendered her docking necessary. Copper rubbed off; +planking damaged. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +6 A.M.--Weighed and proceeded under steam round the north end of the +Island. 3 P.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms in Mahébourg Harbour. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Slipped from mooring and steamed out of Port Louis. Came to in +Mahébourg Harbour 1.50 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +Governor visited the ship. Manned yards and saluted. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +His Excellency kindly took me a two days’ trip round the island by land. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +_Wasp_, 13, Commander C. Stirling, arrived. Shifted flag to her; sent +_Brisk_ to relieve _Forte_, ordered here. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 8.] + +_Forte_ arrived. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXVII + +_FORTE_ FLAG RE-HOISTED + + +[Sidenote: 1860. Nov. 9.] + +Re-hoisted flag in _Forte_. Fired Royal Salute at noon, in honour of +Prince of Wales’s birthday. + +[Sidenote: Mauritius, Nov. 14.] + +_Persian_, 12, arrived from Seychelles, and saluted flag. Commander +Hardinge, having sustained a severe but accidental wound in the foot, +was unfortunately rendered unfit for duty. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +French war steamer _La Somme_ arrived from Réunion, bearing the broad +pennant of the Commodore, with whom we exchanged salutes. In afternoon +proceeded to Tombeaux Bay. Came to off Monsieur de Courson’s sugar +mills. + +[Sidenote: Tombeaux Bay, Nov. 17.] + +Joined by _Persian_, 12, sloop. Made arrangements for sham fight to +come off on the 20th. _Wasp_, in dock, was found to have sustained +considerable damage while on shore off Slave Krop Point. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 20.] + +Soon after daylight observed the troops, consisting of 5th and part +of 24th Regiments, with artillery, marching down and crossing pontoon +bridge at head of bay. These were followed by a strong party of police. +From that time until afternoon there was one continuous string of +natives and people of all sorts arriving from Port Louis and country +round, taking up positions to see the fight, for which nothing could +be better adapted than the high land about the head of Tombeaux Bay. +At noon visitors arrived on board. After luncheon we commenced landing +them on a commanding point out of range, but from which I could command +by signal, assisted by a very pretty French lady. + +_Forte_ and _Persian_, having been swung broadside to the point of +attack, the boats formed into two lines abreast: lighter boats landing +storming parties, gunboats following to cover disembarkation. + +The point to be carried was a high mound at the head of the bay, about +two hundred yards inland. The landing to be effected under cover of the +ship’s guns. The enemy’s picquets were driven in, and their skirmishers +retired. The hill was stormed and carried, supposed forts blown up. +Enemy, having received reinforcements, endeavoured to outflank and cut +off retreat. On the order to retire, the mound was reoccupied by the +enemy, and pressing us with artillery on a retreat, desperate fighting +was the result. The storming party would have been made prisoners, had +not their re-embarkation been covered by the ships, who opened fire and +kept the enemy in check. + +So ended the Battle of Tombeaux Bay, a successful exhibition which +delighted some twenty thousand natives and residents, without an +accident. A ball in a house kindly lent by Mr. de Courson, the Mayor, +finished the night. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 21.] + +Returned to Port Louis. + +[Sidenote: Mahébourg, Nov. 22.] + +Grand ball given by Governor and Mrs. Stevenson. Weighed at daylight. +_Persian_ in company. Came to in the harbour of Mahébourg, where I was +kindly entertained by the Colonel and officers 5th Regiment. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +Inspected _Persian_--fine crew and in good order. + +Steamed out of the harbour: exchanged cheers from the rigging on +parting company. + +[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Dec. 15.] + +2.15 A.M.--Storm coming on, ran for Simon’s Bay. Furled sails. Came +to with both bower anchors after having brought up with 75 fathoms +of cable ahead; ship drifted to a fresh squall; parted small bower +cable, and, as we afterwards discovered, stock of best bower broken. +Ship brought up by sheet and spare anchors when within half her length +of the rocks, but held on by help of steam screw until evening, when +gale moderated. It _can_ blow in the neighbourhood of the Cape! Found +here _Brisk_, _Lyra_, _Hornet_, and _Enchantress_, the latter our +prize, _Manula_, rechristened, and bought into the service for use in +suppression of slavery on the east coast. Found also the _Pioneer_ from +England refitting for the Zambesi expedition. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Rather bored with continued gales, unusual at this time of year. Went +up to Cape Town to visit my kind friends. The races were going on at +Green Point, to which I went, attended by groom only. Among others +found myself, without seeking him, close to His Excellency Sir George +Grey, my late passenger in the _Forte_, surrounded by his staff. + +Found a letter from my clergyman friend, Eyre, dated September 30, in +which he stated that he had some qualms of conscience about writing on +the Sabbath, but recollecting what he had read in the Gospel for the +day, he determined to continue. + +In Cape Town was Doctor Livingstone waiting for an opportunity to get +to the Zambesi. Informed him of one in the _Pioneer_; and, like the +sinewy-looking man that he was, he walked the whole way to Simon’s Bay. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXVIII + +THE CAPE COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1861. Simon’s Bay, Jan. 1.] + +Succeeded in getting _Sidon_ under weigh, with _Pioneer_ in tow, at 9 +A.M. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 2.] + +6 A.M.--Slipped moorings and steamed out of Simon’s Bay. Rounded Cape +Point. 9.--Made sail, passing between the Bellows Rock and the Main. Up +screw. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Forte_, Jan. 13.] + +It was my intention to have visited Ichaboa on way to Ascension, +but the wind falling light for several successive days, and having +appointed the Commodore of the West Coast to meet me at Ascension the +middle of January, did not delay. + +Attention to the vast deposit of guano on Ichaboa appears to have been +drawn by Captain Andrew Livingston in 1843; the first cargo was taken +off by the _Ann_ in that year. Although the island is little more than +a mile in circumference, from April 1843 to February 1845 upwards of +200,000 tons of guano had been removed. In the month of January 1845, +450 vessels were present, and as many as 6000 seamen and labourers at +work. The constant presence of a man-of-war was necessary. The island +appears to have been clean swept of guano, and the birds, seals, +etc., driven away by February 1845. Since that, a few enterprising +individuals have, by keeping guard there, prevented the birds from +being disturbed, so that they resort there annually, and guano to the +value of £30,000 is taken off and sent to the Mauritius market. This +increase has excited the cupidity of other parties at Cape Town, who +choose to consider it as an unfair monopoly on the part of those who +have, at considerable expense, watched over, and, as they term it, +cultivated the guano. While one party is prepared to defend their +preserve, others are preparing to help themselves, and use force. It +was to prevent bloodshed that I thought of going. The island, however, +belongs to no one. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +Daylight made the Island of Ascension. Came to at 8.30 in 10 fathoms. +Found _Arrogant_, 47, Commodore Edmonstone, and _Mæander_, whose +figurehead I have. No exchange of salutes, on account of its being the +turtle season, which continues from November until June. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Inspected _Arrogant_. Clean and smart. Good at quarters, as well as at +manning and arming boats. Fairish crew, but spoilt in appearance by +cloth caps, now prevalent in the service. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +_Arrogant_ sailed for Sierra Leone and Gambia to quell disturbance by +King Badiboo. Inspected the “island of forbidding appearance,” without +water or wood, and formerly regarded as an impracticable heap of ashes. +Ascension is now in a state of improvement as to its resources, natural +and artificial. Government buildings of stone, neat and substantial, +consisting of store-house, hospital, a good smith’s shop, mess-room and +barracks; but the chief interests of the island are centred in turtle. +The first part of a tolerably good road has been made between hills of +cinders and along plains of ashes, dust, and lava. + +Green Mountain is nearly in the centre of the island, 2818 feet above +the sea; rising, as the Directory terms it, a “graceful oasis amidst +waste and desolation”; from it you look down on some forty hills of +cinders, each of which has in its turn contributed to the supply +of lava and ashes; but now, with the assistance of planting and +cultivation attracting rain, it is rapidly progressing. There appear to +be about 2000 acres in pasture, planted, or under cultivation. Cattle, +and occasionally horses are bred, but sheep appear to thrive best. In +addition to seven or eight milch cows, the Government farm can boast of +two bulls, thirty oxen, and about eleven thousand sheep. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Weighed. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Came to in Sierra Leone. Found _Arrogant_. Saluted authorities and +landed, receiving due honours. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +Arrived H.M.S. _Falcon_, under command of Lieutenant Bagge, Commander +Arthur Fitzroy having died of fever. At this sad event I am deeply +grieved. It was only in the Crimea that I attended the deathbed of his +elder brother: one of a family through whose care and kindness I, as a +midshipman, recovered from this deadly African fever. + +I appointed my Flag Lieutenant, Algernon C. F. Heneage, to poor Arthur +Fitzroy’s vacancy in the _Falcon_. She was lying in the river, where +there was nothing above the surface to be seen moving but sharks’ fins. +The new Commander was well got up, as was his wont, even to kid gloves. +Just as his four-oared gig was getting alongside, one of the boys +missed his footing and disappeared. In a moment Heneage unbuckled his +sword, dived and saved the boy. He read his commission at the capstan +in his muddy suit--a good beginning!--and returned on board _Forte_ +to dine with his old Chief. For this gallant deed the Humane Society +awarded Heneage a medal. + +It was now my painful duty to write the following official letter:-- + + “FORTE,” AT SIERRA LEONE, + _February 11, 1861_. + + To the Secretary of the Admiralty. + + SIR--I have the honour to inform you, for the information of My Lords + Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I have received my appointment + to the South East Coast of America; but, as I did not apply for that + command, I beg most respectfully to request their Lordships will be + pleased to inform me of their reason for removing me from the Cape of + Good Hope and West Coast of Africa to an inferior command.--I have + the honour to be, sir, your obedient servant, + + (Signed) HENRY KEPPEL, + Rear-Admiral. + +[Sidenote: Sierra Leone.] + +Appointed Lieutenant Wilkinson Acting Commander, and Mr. Turner, Flag +Lieutenant. The expedition had started to punish the King of Badiboo, +who, when called on to pay a fine of bullocks for having robbed British +merchants, sent in reply to Governor D’Arcy at Bathurst, he would fight +him, and if he was not assisted by the French, thrash him to boot! +Colonel Hill, Governor of Sierra Leone, having sent all his troops, was +anxious for the assistance of the Navy. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +Embarked the Governor under salute and manned yards. Weighed for the +Gambia, _Arrogant_ and _Falcon_ having preceded. + +[Sidenote: Gambia, Feb. 16.] + +Nearing the land, signalman reported masts of a ship at anchor to the +N.W. Steered towards her. On getting within distance, she signalled, +“You are standing into danger.” This was the _Arrogant_, my old friend +Edmonstone of the Naval College, the cleverest fellow there, who +passed out six months before his allotted two years: no better fellow, +but chance had made me his senior. My reply was, “Weigh immediately and +follow me.” Steamed into the Gambia, _Arrogant_ in company. Came to in +15 fathoms off Bathurst. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 17.] + +1 P.M.--_Arrogant_ proceeded up the river to join the expedition which +left Bathurst on Friday. 4 P.M.--_Falcon_ arrived, but being out of +coal came to. At 4.30 P.M., _Forte’s_ services not being required, +steamed out of the river. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Arrived at Sierra Leone. Having taken in 135 tons of coal, steamed out. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +4 A.M.--Tornado came off, cool and refreshing. Made sail after the +strength had passed. Departed this life, Mr. Keating, boatswain, a +former shipmate in _Dido_. Poor fellow, he leaves a wife and three +young children. + +[Sidenote: Accra, Mar. 3.] + +3 P.M.--Came to off Accra; landed in the evening. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 4.] + +11 A.M.--Re-embarked under salute from the fort. 9.30 P.M.--Weighed. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +1.30 P.M.--Came to in 7 fathoms off a village called Jellacoffy, two +miles to the eastward of Cape St. Paul, a good place for stock and +fruit. 4.30 P.M.--Weighed. + +[Sidenote: Fernando Po, Mar. 10.] + +Came to in a cove to the westward of Cockburn Cove, Fernando Po. Found +_Bloodhound_, 3, paddle wheel, steam vessel, Lieutenant Commander +Francis W. Bennett. Saluted Spanish flag and returned salute of Spanish +brig. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +8 A.M.--Arrived _Alecto_, Commander Raby, bringing our December mail. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +No Protestant clergyman being allowed to do duty on shore, two +marriages among the coloured population were solemnized on board +by Captain Turnour. There are upwards of 1000 coloured people, +Protestants, in and about the town, who are not allowed to assemble +together in each other’s houses to pray, nor is a school allowed for +the education of their children. Such is Spanish law in A.D. 1861! +Spanish Governor Don José de la Gandara visited the ship: a superior +and intelligent-looking man. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +11.30 A.M.--Weighed; stood to southward down west coast of the island. + +[Sidenote: St. Thomas, Mar. 16.] + +7.30 A.M.--Came to in 6 fathoms, Island of St. Thomas, Fort St. +Sebastian N.N.W. 3/4 mile. I anchored here, just twenty-three years +ago, in the _Childers_ on my way to Ascension and England (1838). +Found everybody on shore anything but civil; slavers calling are +more profitable than Her Majesty’s ships. Several canoes, apparently +fishing, started off to sea on our arrival and were not seen to return. +After we got under weigh at 8 P.M. observed port-fires and other night +signals in different directions. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 19.] + +1 P.M.--Chased and came up with a brig, the _Falmouth_ of New York. +This vessel had been captured only a few months ago by one of the U.S. +cruisers _Portsmouth_, and sent to New York to be sold for the benefit +of the captors. + +[Sidenote: St. Paul de Loanda, Mar. 21.] + +6 A.M.--Exchanged salutes with the _Archer_, 8; came to in 5 +fathoms as near the coal depot as we could. Found _Wrangler_, also +an old acquaintance at Madeira, Flag-Officer Inman, in the U.S. +_Constellation_; exchanged salutes and fraternized considerably. Found +the American iron coaling launches most useful. Native labour idle and +next to useless. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Midnight, weighed. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Came to in Little Fish Bay. Obtained fresh beef and live bullocks, +yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and cabbages. English potatoes +plentiful. + +[Sidenote: Cape of Good Hope, April 21.] + +Stood into False Bay; took moorings in Simon’s Bay. Found here _Brisk_, +_Gorgon_, and _Persian_. + +[Sidenote: April 22.] + +Commenced coaling and otherwise preparing for our relief. + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +8 P.M.--_Narcissus_ arrived with flag of Sir Baldwin Walker to relieve +me. Appointed to the Brazilian command. + +[Sidenote: April 25.] + +Salutes exchanged. + +[Sidenote: April 29.] + +Gave up the Command in Chief of the Cape of Good Hope and West African +station to Sir Baldwin Walker. At 8.30 P.M. steamed out of Simon’s Bay +to go to Table Bay for provisions, ships and transports from China +having cleared out the stores. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +10 A.M.--Steamed out of Table Bay against a heavy swell. + +[Sidenote: May 16.] + +6.40 P.M.--Came to at Ascension. Found here _Mæander_, _Tortoise_, and +_Buffalo_. + +[Sidenote: Ascension, May 17.] + +Took in all the coal we could get by 8 P.M. Sailed next morning. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXIX + +RETURN TO ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1861. May 28.] + +9 P.M.--Came to in Rio Harbour. Found _Leopard_, with flag of +Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, K.C.B., waiting to be relieved. +Also the old _Madagascar_, Captain White; _Curlew_, Captain Shaw; +_Spy_, Lieutenant Tabuteau; and _Pylades_, Captain de Courcy, on his +way home from the Pacific. Found also notice from their Lordships of +their intention to supersede me with Rear-Admiral Warren, whom I might +expect in the _Emerald_, to which ship I was to transfer my flag and +return to England. + +This step was taken by their Lordships in reply to a request I had +made in a private letter to the First Lord to be allowed to return to +England in the _Forte_, that inquiry might be made into my conduct. +Moreover, in reply to an official application I had made most +respectfully, requesting their Lordships would be good enough to state +reasons for having removed me from the Cape to an inferior command, +I received an answer that their Lordships “were not in the habit of +giving any reasons for the orders they may think proper to give.” + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +Arrived _Emerald_, with flag of Rear-Admiral Warren; exchanged salutes. +Transferred my flag to the _Emerald_ commanded by my gallant friend +Captain Arthur Cumming. Off this coast on Sept. 6, 1843, to the +southward, he did as smart a thing as any sailor could wish. He was a +lieutenant in charge of a twelve-oared cutter, searching for slavers. +He disguised himself, his crew and his boat, as fishermen, painting the +cutter after Brazilian fashion. A strange, rakish-looking brig nearing, +Cumming steered towards her as if wishing to sell fish. Without a word +he was on board, shot the helmsman, put the slaver up in the wind, to +the consternation of her crew. His own men joined him. It was indeed a +brilliant feat! + + * * * * * + +By the mail received the following press cutting--from what paper I +know not, nor from whom I received it; but so struck am I by its truth +and justice, it is herewith inserted:-- + + THE KEPPEL SCANDAL + + The report to which we gave currency last week, relative to the + return of Sir Henry Keppel, has since been confirmed; and we + understand another flag officer has been nominated successor to + Sir Stephen Lushington on the Brazil Station. On the return of the + gallant Admiral, the scandal with which his name has been associated + will be fully investigated, and the danger of acting upon an _ex + parte_ statement will probably receive another proof. Had Sir Henry + Keppel tamely submitted to the sentence of removal from the Cape + Station he would have been pleading guilty to a charge of a serious + nature, and we give him full credit, therefore, for having declined + to accept the South American command under such circumstances. This + treatment of a British flag officer shows to what a miserable ebb + the Navy has fallen. Had a general officer been complained of by a + Colonial Government he would not have been summarily dismissed or + transferred to another command unheard or untried. But, alas! the + Navy has no _Head_, able or willing to maintain the independence + of its officers. Any paltry complaint against a naval officer, + when urged by a civilian, or coming from the Horse Guards or Home + Office, assumes a degree of importance which it takes a deal of + correspondence and explanations to lessen or set aside. The naval + officer is often condemned on the shallowest of pretexts, and has no + Court of Appeal. With respect to the alleged scene or scenes on board + the _Forte_, we have heard so many different versions that we decline + to offer any decided opinion; but we contend on behalf of the service + for that measure of justice which is never denied to the veriest + criminal--a fair and full trial before condemnation. It may turn out + that Sir George Grey acted with unbecoming and causeless impetuosity, + and that a British Admiral was moved from a valuable appointment at + the request of the Home Secretary, because an irascible civilian + Governor chose to pick a quarrel. We demand on the part of the Navy + fair play. We ask no more, and we are satisfied that if it is not + freely accorded by the Board of Admiralty, there are champions of + justice enough in the House of Commons to take up the cudgels. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +H.M. Minister, Mr. Christie, embarked on board _Emerald_. Sunset, +resigned command of South American station to Warren, and shifted flag +to _Emerald_, embarking with suite at same time. Was informed that +during the night between fifty and sixty of the _Forte’s_ crew deserted. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +10 P.M.--Weighed. Although at that late hour, the crew of _Forte_ +voluntarily waited up to greet their old Admiral and Captain with a +succession of parting cheers. Blue lights were burned as we steamed +round and stood out of Rio Harbour. Thirty-seven years since I first +entered it! + +[Sidenote: July 2.] + +7 A.M.--Came to off St. Salvador in the famous Bahia Bay. Found +_Curlew_. Exchanged salutes with Brazilian flag. Noon, Royal salute in +commemoration of Brazilian independence. + +[Sidenote: July 3.] + +Ship visited by President to see our Minister and Armstrong guns. + +[Sidenote: July 4.] + +Weighed and steamed out of Bahia. + +[Sidenote: July 11.] + +Crossed the Equator for the last time! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +Made the Eddystone Lighthouse. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +After passing Cowes, furled sails, squared yards, rounded to, manned +yards, and saluted Royal standard. Made sail, came to at Spithead. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +Struck flag. Visited friend, George Gray, now Rear-Admiral +Superintendent of the Dockyard. After luncheon, accompanied him towards +the King’s Stairs, where he expected the Prince Consort to embark for +Osborne, H.R.H. having been to inspect works in progress at Portsdown. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Aug. 6.] + +On the Prince’s appearing in sight, I retired; however, His Royal +Highness having spotted me, came direct and gave me a kind and cordial +“welcome back.” I was much pleased and gratified at this--but still +sore at the silence preserved at the Admiralty as to the cause of my +removal from the Cape Station. Governor Sir George Grey had sent a +message that “if I did not (on our second leaving Rio for the Cape) +write home what had occurred, he would not.” + +Having since found out how little regard he had for speaking the truth, +I believed that he had access by writing to some person near the Court, +which would account for the mystery at the Admiralty. The kindness of +the Prince Consort somewhat dispelled this idea. I proceeded to London. +My brother-in-law, clever and truest friend, was no more! I tried to +forget my Service troubles, and the notice I more than once received +that I need not expect further employment. Sir Frederick Grey, First +Sea Lord, was then the only person who, if not deceived, knew what had +occurred on board the _Forte_. + +[Sidenote: Aug. to Sept.] + +On 5th December 1860, the First Lord wrote me a private letter, +which I only received after my arrival in England stating, “Upon +consideration, he thought it expedient to transfer me to another +station.” A more just and honourable man than the Duke of Somerset +there could not be. By whom had His Grace been misled? There are now +living proofs in London of what did occur! Sir George Grey and myself +are both old men, living within an hour’s walk. We must shortly be +called to our full account. + +_P.S._--Poor fellow! since writing the above I find that Sir George +Grey (born _Gray_) rests under the same roof as Nelson and Wellington! + + + + +CHAPTER LXXX + +SHORE TIME + + +[Sidenote: 1861. Oct.] + +Although surrounded by friends, England to me was no longer the same +happy place. I felt aggrieved and annoyed. Jane West kindly undertook +to share my troubles. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 31.] + +The marriage ceremony was performed by her brother Richard, assisted by +the Rev. Hon. Robert Liddell, Vicar of St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge. + +[Sidenote: Nov.] + +We went abroad, travelled through France and Italy: remained some time +in Florence, met many kind friends, visited the churches and shops +without the means of purchasing. On convenient occasions my good wife +invited me to join in prayer. Anxious to display my French, usually +answered, “Toujours près.” + +[Sidenote: Paris, Dec. 14.] + +The good Prince Consort departed this life. Her poor Majesty! Universal +grief! + +[Sidenote: 1862. Jan. 10.] + +Returned to England. We retook possession of our cottage at +Bishopstoke, although I had a kind and good tenant in Sir John Bayley, +owner of the _Nymph_, a 61-ton cutter yacht lying at Southampton; he +kindly vacated the cottage. While arrangements were being made, we took +lodgings in Sloane Street, my wife’s parents living in Cadogan Place. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +Son Colin was born, an event which took off the rough edge of +discontent. The gallant Clyde stood godfather. Am not going to bore +my readers with particulars of my shore life. I may state that I still +had kind friends, and enjoyed the best of shooting; also, being a light +weight, had frequent mounts with hounds. + +[Sidenote: 1863. Jan. 1.] + +Heard of Princess Alice’s accident at Broadlands, Isle of Wight. Her +phaeton was overturned, but H.R.H. fortunately not much hurt. The Hon. +Mrs. Bruce was in attendance. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +The Prince of Wales took his seat for the first time in the House of +Lords. Navy much exercised about the building of ironclads. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Attended Prince of Wales’s levée with Eyre. Over a thousand +presentations, besides seventeen hundred who attended. Amongst other +old shipmates, met Prince Victor of Hohenlohe. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 7.] + +This was indeed a happy and exciting day for London. The arrival and +procession through the city and streets by the most lovely Princess +that ever visited this country. The excitement and fatigue must have +been great, but Her Royal Highness allowed no one to see it. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Windsor. + + * * * * * + +As before mentioned, I was fond of a race, as was my brother-in-law, +Sir Joseph Hawley; he had engaged Porter as his trainer. I amused +myself at Kingsclere and learned something. Settled down at the +cottage, Bishopstoke. + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +My brother Tom died at Brighton. He had been for some time in delicate +health. In 1856 I took him to the Cape for the sea voyage. He was +buried at Quidenham. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +At Epsom races. Derby won by Mr. R. C. Naylor’s “Macaroni.” Stakes +valued at £7200. + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +Oaks won by Lord Valentine’s “Queen Bertha.” + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +Cup Day, Ascot. A brilliant meeting. First appearance of Prince and +Princess of Wales. Cup won by Mr. Merry’s “Buckstone.” + +[Sidenote: Aug. 14.] + +My much-esteemed friend Lord Clyde died, aged seventy-one.... Attended +his funeral on 21st. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +The King of the Greeks, brother to the Princess of Wales, arrived in +England. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: Dec.] + +The River Itchen running between my kitchen and flower-garden, was +full of trout, and there was a small summer-house through which I +could conduct a running stream from the river. I wrote to Mr. Buckland +to help me in breeding trout. In the upper part of the summer-house +I had a tank, which could be renovated and a small stream of water +introduced into a succession of troughs of spawn,--these overflowed +into each other. It was great fun watching the tiny things come to life +and gradually increase in size, until it was time to put them into the +river. Chamberlayne and others, through whose property the Itchen ran, +took a great interest in the experiment. From my little preserve on the +Itchen, Frank Buckland stocked the rivers in Tasmania with trout, which +has proved very successful. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +Heard with deep regret of the death of Thackeray. He had, some years +before, proposed me as a member of the Cosmopolitan Club, a pleasant +gathering of Bohemians, who met as a rule about midnight in Watt’s +Studio, Charles Street, Berkeley Square. Up to the end of its days my +name was up on the walls of the Club as “absent on special business.”... + +[Sidenote: 1864. Jan. 8.] + +Poor Denmark was not getting on in her war with Prussia; offered my +services. But the rank of Vice-Admiral interfered. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 19.] + +Prince of Wales at University Boat Race, attended by General Knollys +and Colonel Keppel. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 3.] + +Garibaldi arrived at Southampton. Landed in his full uniform: red +shirt, felt hat, and walking-stick. He was taken by Mr. Seely of iron +pigs notoriety over Portsmouth Dockyard. Garibaldi, after three weeks’ +visit, left in the Duke of Sutherland’s yacht _Undine_ for Caprera. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +Capture of _Alabama_ by Federal cruiser _Kearsage_. + + * * * * * + +Three millions afterwards paid by England! So much for arbitration! + +[Sidenote: July 6.] + +Bishopstoke being near Southampton, was a good deal on board Tom +Chamberlayne’s (of Cranberry) yacht the _Arrow_, R.Y.S.; at that +period had not been beaten. Fred Delmé Radcliffe had a nice yacht, the +_Freak_, but nothing could pass _Arrow_. Being an honorary member of +the Royal Yacht Squadron, consoled myself as best I could. Astonishing +how sailing improves the appetite. Off Hurst Castle was our host’s +favourite anchorage. + +[Sidenote: Guernsey, July 7.] + +Charles Radcliffe joined. Guernsey, too, was a favourite anchorage. +Market well supplied with fruit and vegetables, but you should not +spoil your appetite by looking at the disgusting conger-eel. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +Breakfasted off mackerel caught just before. After breakfast joined by +Delmé Radcliffe and son Herbert. We started in hopes of engaging one +Lanourie, a celebrated salt-water fisherman, but found he was already +engaged by Mr. Petre of the _Osprey_. Arrived _Eugenie_, R.Y.S.; joined +by Fred Delmé Radcliffe; had a good dinner with Frankland and Colonel +Denny. + +[Sidenote: _Arrow_ yacht, July 9.] + +On the highest part in the centre of the town is a granite tower +erected in memory of Her Majesty’s visit. After a climb up a spiral +staircase, we obtained a view of the island. The tide being out, the +numerous rocks appeared as if they had risen like pinnacles from the +deep; makes one feel thankful one is not the owner of a yacht. During +the night we were joined by the _Firefly_, Sir H. Oglander. A strong +north-easter made us prisoners. Chamberlayne has a party at Cranberry, +and I am due at home! News of Friday’s debate in the House on vote of +censure. The position of Federal troops in Virginia critical. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +By steamer to Cowes; dined with Sir Thomas Whichcote on board his +_Enchantress_. + +[Sidenote: July 11.] + +Landed early at Southampton, on to Bishopstoke, saw wife and kid +(Colin), returned to _Enchantress_, and off with first of south-wester +to the eastward. Monty Thorold on board. Frankland in _Eugenie_ had got +start, but we caught her up this side of Beachy Head. Took Dutch pilot. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +Readers rejoice. Some friend has borrowed a month of my journal and +left me neither on shore nor afloat. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 12.] + +Sunset not far from the Sluis Gate entrance. Detained a couple of hours +for want of water. Worked over the bar and came to in Goree Channel +shortly after midnight. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 13.] + +_Eugenie_ brought up outside the bar. Having worked up to Helvets Maas, +changed pilot and hauled into entrance of Vourme Canal. Here had to +wait our turn. _Eugenie_ rejoined; got through first tack. Taken in tow +by horses, to me a novel mode of travelling. Canal about six miles in +length. Secured inside the lock. + +On passing through, saw sundry partridges, hares, wild duck, and +plover; cattle, carts and carriages, latter primitive in appearance. At +noon anchored off Rotterdam. Landed in afternoon; ascended the Church +Tower, magnificent and extensive view. Inside the church are two good +sculptures of Admirals de Witt and Coremiar. Town clean. Corry and +Conellan dined with us. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 15.] + +[Sidenote: The Hague.] + +Started by train for the Hague. Visited Museum and Picture Gallery. +Lunched at a Café by the way, particularly clean. We then drove to +the King’s Country Palace, distant some miles; road shaded by some of +the tallest oaks and elms I ever saw. At the Palace we were civilly +received by the servants. Although the Queen was residing in it, we +were shown over the charming country residence. On our preparing to +leave, a footman suggested writing our names in a book lying open on a +side-table. I had no other costume than a pea-jacket and sailor’s hat. + +We had just turned into the road from the outer gate, when a messenger +came running with Her Majesty’s commands for my return, when I was sent +for, and received by Her Majesty Queen Sophie Frederique Mathilde at +the door of the ante-room, and desired to follow her into a charming +boudoir. After a few kind words, I was desired to sit down. Her +Majesty hoped that I had not forgotten my Dutch extraction, and other +kind expressions. I mentioned that I had had the honour of being a +Groom-in-Waiting to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. I was allowed to kiss +the royal hand on departing: my friends having kindly waited in the +carriage, enjoying the fragrant weed. + +On our way back we visited the bazaars. A more curious collection of +pretty things I had never seen. Returned by train, and so on board the +pretty and beautifully clean _Enchantress_, having seen a good deal, +and I, in particular, well pleased by the reception I had received. The +_Eugenies_ came to dine. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 16.] + +In the evening my new friend Mr. Itmann came on board and agreed to +accompany us to Amsterdam. + +[Sidenote: Amsterdam, Aug. 17.] + +By 9.15 train. Two flys took us from the station at Amsterdam to the +Palace. We first mounted the belfry and had a fine view of Zuyder Zee +and surrounding country. We came in for a tune on the bells, as well as +the striking the hour of noon on the more ponderous one. The Palace is +as dismal and as uninteresting a building as one could well go through. +Old Spanish flags and other trophies taken from their greatest enemy +are suspended in the Throne Room. There is a large picture by Wappers +of the gallant young officer, Van Speyk, who blew his ship up, with +himself and crew, after getting on shore, when boarded by the Belgians +in 1831. + +We went to the picture-gallery; an ill-arranged building, but +containing some good pictures. Amsterdam, with its trade and canal +streets, is very like Rotterdam. At 5 P.M. we returned by a train +_viâ_ Utrecht; but there is so much sameness about this great grazing, +cattle-supporting country, that unless I had been told I should have +thought we were returning by the same line. In Amsterdam we had +luncheon at a restaurant, but the cooking not much, although things +were clean. Got on board _Enchantress_ a little after seven. + +[Sidenote: Rotterdam, Aug. 18.] + +After luncheon went on shore with Itmann and examined a small galliot +pleasure-boat, of about eighteen or twenty feet in length, and to +which I had taken a fancy. For her length, as comfortable as a vessel +could be, the middle part decked over. Mast and sails fitted, and for +stability as safe as a church. Should like to have her in the Itchen, +off Bishopstoke. Weather bad. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Weighed at 11 A.M. Wind just sufficient to allow us, with ebb tide, to +fetch down, which we did cleverly in one hour. Same distance when going +up taking us four hours, in tow of a dirty steamer. Arrived at Nieuwe +Sluys entrance to the Vourme Canal at noon. Process of getting through +the lock gates slow. We heard of a large ship coming through yesterday, +requiring forty-two horses to tow her up. By 2 P.M. we were through the +gates, and, with the assistance of the foresail, wind abeam, kept the +three horses at the tow rope in a jog-trot. _Eugenie_ having had half +an hour’s start, made sail and slipped away without the encumbrance +of horses, and was, partly owing to the haze, out of sight ahead. The +canal is crossed by sundry bridges which draw up, and the passing +between the posts requires a nicety in steering. In meeting vessels it +is customary, or rather it is the printed law, to keep to the right +or starboard side. At about 3.40 a deeply-laden English collier was +observed most pertinaciously keeping the mid-channel, as if she did +not intend to give way an inch to, what she most likely considered us, +the weaker vessel; in vain we hauled in so close to the shore that one +might have reached it with a moderate length of foot: however, we had +all but squeezed through, when the _Leveret_, of Whitby, at last, and +when too late, put her helm a-port, thereby throwing her quarter very +rudely against _Enchantress’s_ bow, by which she lost a whisker and had +her cathead and upper works considerably damaged; to say nothing of the +foresail, which was rent in twain. + +The nimble _Leveret_ did not escape without a scratch, inasmuch as +_Enchantress’s_ anchor having hooked the _Leveret’s_ main rigging, +tore away three of the shrouds, and having cleared her upper works fore +and aft, the anchor finding nothing left to hold on by, tumbled into +the water and was soon weighed, catted, and fished. While we proceeded +on our way, the collier was observed to rush frantically into the +rushes on the wrong bank of the river. + +At 4 P.M. we brought up at Helviotsluys end of the canal. All +appearances of a gale of wind, although in the right direction, we are +better inside the canal. + +[Sidenote: Helviotsluys, Aug. 21.] + +Gale continuing, but glass rising. If wind veers to eastward the sea +must go down a bit. Visit from the _Eugenies_ or Irish Brigade, who +likewise had been in some danger by a huge steamer. Whichcote, not +intending the lubberly _Leveret_ to escape the punishment due, sent +Haywood, his master, back to Rotterdam by steamer to lay the case +before Her Majesty’s Consul and proper authorities; this, however, may +detain us another day, as the master cannot be back before to-morrow. +Landed and visited the town, which is entered by a drawbridge, and +surrounded by a ditch. Fortifications in tolerable repair, but no +guns mounted: they were lying in rows inside one of the bastions. In +the centre of the town was an old 50-gun frigate, for the training of +youths for their navy. In the evening the _Eugenies_ came on board and +we had a rubber. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +_Eugenie_ got through the gates at an early hour, but brought up +outside. Gale over, glass rising, but no easterly wind. A young +Dutchman, probably an attorney’s clerk, came on board, the bearer of +a letter from the master of the _Leveret_, the purport of which was +that he should send Whichcote a bill of damages as soon as his defects +were made good. Tom Whichcote, having read the document, tore it up +and threw it overboard, and told the messenger he might tell Mr. Clark +(the master of the _Leveret_) to go to a hot place. The scribe having +remarked that Sir Thomas had a peculiar way of conducting business, +retired in haste. In the afternoon a pilot came on board and conducted +us through the gates--an operation we could have done as well. Came to +outside preparatory to a start in the morning. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 23.] + +Got pilot on board. Weather hazy. Wind hanging to W.S.W. Message from +the Irish Brigade proposing to keep the inner water and so go down to +Flushing; not a bad idea, to which we agreed. Landed sea pilot and +tried for a river one; only one in store, so settled to wait. At 9 A.M. +observed _Eugenie_ working down for the sea. However, Tom Whichcote was +not to be influenced into again changing his mind; having got on board +a river pilot, we weighed and ran to S.E., keeping between certain +black and white buoys. + +After rounding the S.E. end of Goree and Overflacker, the tide having +fallen, and the channel narrow and wind in our faces, we came to. +Observed sundry seals basking in the sun on the patches of drying sand +left by the falling tide. _Eugenie_ and ourselves no longer in company, +and as their manœuvring scented somewhat of the humbug it was not to be +regretted. Having been to-day at noon in 4° 5´ E. Long.--wonder whether +I shall ever be so far _East_ again. + +These Dutch pilots, although well acquainted with shoals and dangers, +do not understand the handling of a fast fore and aft rigged schooner. +They have no idea of the time they are in stays, nor of the length of +time they hold their way; consequently, instead of merely pointing out +to the captain of the vessel the dangers or shoals he had to avoid, +took to working her himself and twice fixed her on the mud bank. The +second time she was only got off by a rising tide. Much time was lost, +and we brought up for the night earlier than we otherwise should. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 24.] + +Weighed at an early hour, with a southerly wind. Haywood, the master, +appeared to have had enough of narrow channels and mud banks, so took +the Keeten Mast Channel, leading to the southward, and we stood on to +Brouwershaven, where we came to at 9 A.M. to wait tide, change pilot +for a deep-sea one, and obtain provisions. This being the main channel +for large ships to Helviotsluys and Rotterdam, we found several French, +American, and Dutch. + +Water being low as we came down, the banks were covered with various +birds. Two of the crew landed in the night and had got within twenty +yards of a flock of wild ducks, but, unsportmanlike, they had neglected +to examine their guns, which obstinately refused to go off, so the +ducks did! At 11.30 boat returned with a regular old salt as sea pilot; +not much to be done in the way of grub, and the only newspaper, dated +Friday last, was in the possession of one of the American skippers, +with most likely news from the States. + +Weighed, wind W.S.W., fresh ebb tide; worked out cleverly; twelve miles +before we were clear of the outer shoals; discharged pilot and took our +departure from the Fairway buoy. I took the helm. A refreshing breeze, +but rising sea. Name it not, but at four, dinner-time, my old inside +revolted. I felt so sea-sick that I preferred turning in, to facing +dinner. Made a second attempt at supper-time with same result. By 11.30 +made Lowestoft Light. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +At noon we were off the North Foreland. Dirty weather; we wisely came +to in Margate Roads. Glass falling; westerly gale. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +Gale continuing. Got _Daily Telegraph_ from a stranger, but neither he +nor three others could tell what horse had won the Ebor Handicap last +week at York! + +[Sidenote: Sept. 16.] + +Sad death of friend Speke. Accidentally shot getting over a stone wall +near Box, Bath. + +[Sidenote: Oct.] + +It was about this time that my kind friends at Singapore realised the +position in which I was placed. Now that the subject of the transfer of +the Straits Settlements from the India to the Colonial Office was under +the consideration of the Government, I think my friends were almost +unanimous in wishing that I should be appointed Governor of the Straits +Settlements. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXI + +COUNTRY HOUSE VISITS + + +[Sidenote: 1865. Jan. 2.] + +Re-established myself at Bishopstoke. Prepared for hunting and jobbed +horses. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 3.] + +With the Hambledon meet, West End; found in Allington Wood. Sharp but +short run, the greater part to myself. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 4.] + +Rode “Balloon” with the Hursley meet, Farlay Down; found two foxes. A +long day, and no run. Willie Standish driving me home from Hursley. + +[Sidenote: Thursday, Jan. 5.] + +Letter from Knollys with kind invitation to Sandringham for Saturday +next till Thursday following. By steamer to Hythe; shot with Charlie +Scott, and put up at Beaulieu. Everything in the rough, but so +comfortable. Shooting not much. Simpson, Clinton, and Morrit. Posted +to station, and by rail to London. Put up at Bristol Hotel, Cockspur +Street. + +[Sidenote: Sandringham, Saturday, Jan. 7.] + +By 10.57 train from Shoreditch. Arrived at Dersingham 3.20; carriage to +meet us. Prince most kind. Dinner, whist, loo, etc. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Jan. 8.] + +Party here--Woodward, the librarian from Windsor; Frederick Leighton, +artist; George Grey and Lady Morton in waiting; Miss Knollys, etc.; +Lord Hamilton. To morning church. The Prince gave me a gold pin. The +young Prince’s birthday: one year old, fine little fellow. Walked to +see Brereton. + +[Sidenote: Sandringham, Jan. 9.] + +George Grey and I to meet Villebois hounds--H. Seymour, Mrs. Dugdale +Astley, Hammonds, etc. No scent, back early. Prince and self planted +first apple and pear trees in new kitchen garden. Duchess of Cambridge +arrived, attended by Lady Somerset and Purvis, also Lord Harris and +Helps. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 10.] + +We went, some nine guns, partridge-shooting, with over thirty beaters +to drive. The wind high, and birds fast for me. Great function was +the hot luncheon in a barn. Sat next the Princess at dinner: the most +charming of all Princesses. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +Hounds met near. A large party from Sandringham, Lord Harris, P. +Feilding, and self being mounted as well as the staff, Princess driving +Duchess of Cambridge. Mrs. Dugdale Astley, Mrs. Villebois, and others +out. Fox killed; bad scent. + +[Sidenote: Dewlish, Jan. 12.] + +Lord Harris and self took leave of their kind Royal Highnesses. At Lynn +station joined by Lord George Bentinck. In London by 3.50. Had time for +chop at club. By train to Dorchester. Midnight before I got to Dewlish, +Field-Marshal Sir J. Michel, G.C.B. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 13.] + +Owing to Lord Ilchester’s death our visit to Minterne postponed. Horses +had, however, arrived there. Large party in house, Radcliffe’s hounds +meeting near. Rode “Canteen.” Dry, cold, snow on ground; bad scent. +Lost first fox; short run with second. + +[Sidenote: Dewlish, Jan. 15.] + +To morning service. In the clergyman found an old friend at the Cape in +1828. He then in army, son of old Blair who kept the hounds. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +To a near meet with Radcliffe’s hounds. Michel, his daughter Rachel, +very pretty, and Miss Kelyar, also pretty, with us. Two scrambling +races; one fox killed, another to a drain. Much taken out of “Balloon.” + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +With Lady Michel to Dorchester. Train to Poole. Bus to Bournemouth to +look after quarters on Colin’s account. Fanny Albemarle and P. Cust +kind and obliging. Took lodgings and returned to dine. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +Was to have hunted with Digby, Vale of White Horse. Fancied frost too +sharp. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Although a sharp frost, went out with Michel to meet Radcliffe’s +hounds. Heard that the Vale had had a good run yesterday! Have greatly +enjoyed visit to Dewlish, so kind and good to everybody. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +As there was no Minterne visit, horses had to return to Bishopstoke. +Rode one of them to Dorchester station, wife and Colin following, where +I had taken lodgings. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +Found niece Augusta North here with her children. Dined with P. Cust +and Fanny Albemarle, meeting Tom Pasley, Lord Winchilsea with pretty +wife, late F. Rice, Cust’s son-in-law and daughter, the Kennedys, a Mr. +Hay and wife: agreeable party. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Bitter cold; church reported High Pusey. Let wife go alone. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +By rail to Bishopstoke; cottage snug and comfortable, but dull without +the wife and kid. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +Snow, and barometer falling. Dined with the Dean. Felt my way home with +a bull’s-eye lantern--pelting rain! + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Preferred walking to station to having horse roughed. Train to +Christchurch. Bus to Bournemouth. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 30.] + +By bus to Christchurch and train to Bishopstoke. George Deane called +with invite for me to shoot with Chamberlayne. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 2.] + +Wife and Colin came by 3 P.M., looking all the better, and most +welcome, as I had enough of being alone. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 3.] + +This morning’s post brought further information with regard to the +Straits Settlements. + +At 2.40 telegram from Prince of Wales, stating that they would be +passing at 3, and proposing we should bring our boy to the station to +meet their Royal Highnesses. Obeyed command and enjoyed a too short +interview. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 4.] + +Meet of Hambledon at Marwell; wife and Colin there. Killed one fox, +and a fast but short run after another. Henry West arrived by train to +dinner. Atkins sent us some excellent snipe. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +H. West and I to morning church. Sister Caroline staying at Rectory: +there since Thursday. Visit from Standish, bringing Harry Stephenson +from the _Bombay_. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Willie Standish having given Henry a mount, meet at Crab Wood; we drove +to Hursley--best run of the season. Lamed “Balloon” by falling into +a road--a drift of snow tripping him on landing,--a badly-cut knee. +Walked to Winchester; horse from Tubbs; led “Balloon” home. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 8.] + +Meet at Hambledon at George Deane’s. Carried Colin up to see meet. +Rode “Canteen,” sending Dawson on Tubbs’ mare to Cams. Dennison from +Portsmouth came in for cherry brandy. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 9.] + +Vet. Retford to see horses; mare still stiff and lame; “Balloon,” ugly +wound, but doing well. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Repeated visit to Bishopstoke; all well at home, but felt that I had no +business to absent myself on my selfish amusement of hunting. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 11.] + +By train to Gosport. On board _Victory_. Court-martial on loss of +_Bombay_. No end of friends. Visited young Garnier at Mrs. Knight’s +school. Lunched with Fred and Mrs. Hutton. At Cams; found Elliot Yorkes. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +Frost and no hunting. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +H. Delmé with Pat Blake and Elliot Yorke to see Fred Radcliffe and his +“Fair Rosamond” at Gosport. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Sold “Canteen” to W. C. Alexander for £150. Sent to Tubbs for a +mount. Meet at Warmford. Breakfast with Eccles, having picked up +Chapman and George Deane. Tubbs’ brute, a gray, fell with me into a +lane; difficulty in getting home; a talk when there; got letters from +Alexander returning “Canteen” for a whistler; don’t believe it, having +only lately bought him of F. Delmé Radcliffe, for more than I could +well afford. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 27.] + +Glad to have secured house in London. Letter from Alexander, who is +a gentleman, taking my word in preference to the Vet.’s; sent me a +cheque for £150, which I returned. Captain Grimston offered me £30 for +“Balloon,” which I declined. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 28.] + +“Canteen” returned this morning. Standish called, kindly offering to +take care of “Balloon” until sold, which I accepted. He also took Dick +King and the mare. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 4.] + +Found wife and Colin at Leinster Gardens. Lunched 15 Cadogan Place. +Called on Miss Burdett-Coutts and Rajah Brooke, also on Albemarle, his +wife and Charteris. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 7.] + +Navy Club dinner; Mundy in chair. Rajah Brooke guest; about thirty +present. Walked with Rajah to call on Miss Burdett-Coutts. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +Moved into No. 40 Connaught Square. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +Declined a mount kindly offered by Henry West with the old Berkeley: +great temptation though! Dined with Henry Eyre in Berkeley Square, +meeting Le Marchant, Dacres, and others. + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 13.] + +At club found letter--W. Standish’s cheque for £35 for “Balloon.” Good +beast in good hands. Made calls on Lord Palmerston and Admiral Rous. +Declined Lord Campbell’s kind offer of house room. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Ballot at club among about thirty candidates. Bowyear elected. Dined +with Thorolds; meeting pleasant; party as usual. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +Governorship of Singapore engrossing my thoughts. Went to Houses of +Parliament: introduced to W. H. Read’s friend Clerke Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Saw Duke of Somerset’s secretary; intimated to him to communicate that +when applied to by Cardwell His Grace should not throw cold water on my +appointment. Hope I may get it. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +Saw Blackwood at Colonial Office; talk about Straits Settlements; don’t +think I shall get it. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Major Lord D’Arcy Osborn rather a fancy for “Canteen,” although not +for his price, £75. Made sundry calls. Sir George Seymour ill in bed. +Letter from Lord D’Arcy Osborn, offering £75 for “Canteen,” and to call +at my club on the morrow. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +Lord D’Arcy and brother came to club and agreed to take my horse. +Dinner at Navy Club, Shrewsbury in the chair. Afterwards to Pratt’s. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +Attended levée. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Called on and had a chat with Rokeby. Dined with sister Mary, going +afterwards to wandering minstrels at Lord Gerald Fitzgerald’s. + + * * * * * + +Kept journal irregularly at this time. + +[Sidenote: May 4.] + +My sweet May born this day. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +Death of Mrs. Selwyn prevented Tom Whichcote coming to us for the +Bibury and Stockbridge Races. Edward Russell and George Fitzroy came, +but no races for poor E. R. The wife not strong, but she appeared at +dinner. + +[Sidenote: June 28.] + +George Fitzroy and I to Romsey: shunted there for an hour, but in time +for the first race. Bibury Day, and broiling hot. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +Got on with less delay at Romsey. The usual Stockbridge race weather. +Heavy rain. Picked up Henry Fitzroy and brought him back to dinner. + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Friend Edward Russell took his departure--good fellow. George Fitzroy +and I to races; did no good. Henry went home from the course. + +[Sidenote: July 6.] + +Started for 3.15 P.M. train, but no possibility of getting to Woolmer +before 9 P.M. Left portmanteau at Liss; walked from Liphook; changed +into Archie’s clothes. + +[Sidenote: Woolmer, July 7.] + +Lovely place this Woolmer!--Powerscourt, H. Stephenson, Salvin, a great +naturalist, with cormorants to catch fish, Colonel Hagarth and wife. +Had an amusing afternoon’s sport with the birds: no end of trout. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +More bother to get across Hants than to go to Bath. At 8.40 started in +dogcart to Liphook, by rail _viâ_ Havant; got home in four hours. + +[Sidenote: July 11.] + +Archie Macdonald, Sheriff for the County, came with Keppel Stephenson +and his chaplain, Rev. Randolph Keppel Stephenson, had a bed at the +Dean’s. + +[Sidenote: July 12.] + +Lent wife’s carriage to Dean to vote for Bonham Carter. We all dined +with the Dean in great force at result of election. + +[Sidenote: Norfolk, July 17.] + +At Swaffham met Lord Hastings, who took me on to Melton Constable. +Canvassed with Mrs. Dugdale Astley. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +On Hastings drag, four grays, to poll at Keepham. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +With Gurdon and Sons to nomination at Swaffham. Got Bury to propose +Gurdon. After lunch to Quidenham with Bury. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Voted for Gurdon and Jones at Thetford. By express to London. By 1.10 +P.M. train to Winchester. Voted for Mildmay. Something to vote in +Thetford and Winchester same day. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 11.] + +Train from Bishopstoke through London. Joined Col. C. Baillie in fly to +Wentworth Woodhouse, meeting George and Mrs. Fitzwilliam, Sir James and +Lady Mary Wilde, Count Havonet, Fawkes, Teesdale, Colonels Charles and +William Baillie. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Sept. 29.] + +Received intimation from Clerk of the Peace of the Lord-Lieutenant, +Winchester, having signed my commission as a magistrate of the county! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Had a meeting of ratepayers in vestry to consider the inefficient state +of drainage. Atkins and Co. too strong for us: nothing decided on. No +hope, unless cholera lays hold of one of them. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +Having taken a six months’ season ticket, went up. Returned by 5 P.M. +train. Cæsarewitch won by Salpinetes: a fiver on him at 6 to 1. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +In dogcart to Southampton to buy Colin a pair of gloves. Met George +Day. On by King for something more of Salpinetes, Day, late one of my +Mids, winning over £5000! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +To Winchester to take the oaths as Justice of the Peace. By train to +London; attended Board of Anglo-Greek Co.; much bother by Count Mataxa. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +Dined with the Dean, for which purpose we borrowed his brougham. Sad +intelligence of Lord Palmerston’s death reached by telegraph. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Colonel Randolph came down to look over cottage and stables. Stopped +luncheon and took no notice of Colin! Drove wife into Winchester. Went +over Tubbs’ stud. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 21.] + +Drove dogcart into Southampton. Toys for the dear wife’s boy, 6s. 2d.! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +George Lennox came into church, and whispered he was coming to lunch +afterwards. He borrowed a half-crown of me, intending to stop for the +communion service; but after the sermon he slipped the coin back into +my hand, saying, “That fellow has so bored me, I am unfit to stay to +the sacrament”! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +By train to Winchester. Attended for first time as magistrate. Special +sessions. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +Made a partial clearance in the cellar. Several articles brought to +light. Pair of clam shells for the Cummings. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 31.] + +By early train to London; on returning, stepping out before train +had stopped at Bishopstoke, fell, striking back against handle of a +wheelbarrow. Pain very great. Home and to bed. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +Tenants coming in, obliged to clear out. Unable to accompany wife and +children to Bournemouth; was kindly taken in by Cummings. At once to +bed, being in some pain and under impression that ribs were broken. +Examined by Dr. Goldston; severe contusion, muscles bruised. Arnica +applied, etc. Time and patience! + +[Sidenote: Nov. 7.] + +Took Charles Pilkington with me in dogcart to the opening of Albert +Infirmary, Bishop’s Waltham. Prince Arthur, Princesses Helena and +Louisa. Luncheon by Helps. Everything well done. Prayer by Bishop of +Winchester. Concert in old Palace. + +[Sidenote: Bournemouth, Nov. 12.] + +To afternoon service. Do not approve of High Church practice. Why one +is, on going to church to pray, to be inflicted for half-an-hour with +the catechism of children, I do not understand. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Nov. 26.] + +To morning service; a little too much High Church. Seven parsons in the +holiest place! + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +Arrived from London late in the evening at Brinsley Sheridan’s place, +Frampton Court. + +[Sidenote: Frampton Court, Nov. 28.] + +As pretty a day’s shooting as one could wish. Five guns, of which +George Bentinck was the best. B. Sheridan, Lord Archibald St. Maur, +Lord Henry Thynne, and self made the number. There are few houses where +guests are made to feel so welcome as at Frampton Court. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +Same guns, with the exception of Lord H. Thynne, who hunted. All +rabbits found in patches of gorse on side of hill on the Downs. Party +at Frampton Court--Lord Harry and Lady Elrica Thynne, Mr. Lowe, George +Bentinck, Mrs. Phipps, Mr. and Mrs. Col. Digby, Lady Gifford, Mr. and +Mrs. Marker, E. Digby’s daughter. Dinners excellent, wines ditto. Ditto +conversation in smoking-room later! + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Another, the great day’s shooting; same five guns; no prettier +shooting. Two woodcocks; one to my gun. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +Mounted by Lord H. Thynne on a four-year old; kicking at starting. +Short run with Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Home by 3.30 to catch train to +Christchurch. Happy to get back to the “buzzom” of my family. + +[Sidenote: Bournemouth, Dec. 3.] + +My darling boy’s birthday; three years, and indeed a fine specimen. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +Glad to get wife out; a fly to Fane’s, where I shot. Guns, Colonel +Fergusson-Davies, Melville, a young Fane, Colonel Fane, and I. Cheery +house to be in. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 5.] + +Mislaid portmanteau and missed my dinner, very much, with the dear old +Dean at Winchester. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 7.] + +With Sheriff (Archie Macdonald) to meet Judge at station. Party to +dinner at Deanery. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Sworn in as foreman of the Grand Jury: novel position, got through +with assistance of Curzon. Dinner at the Dean’s; large party, chiefly +clergy. Well-fed, jolly lot. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +All the churches under influence of Mr. Bennett, of too much notoriety. +“What can do.” Hard upon those who like to worship and pray to the +Almighty in a quiet way. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Took my boy for walk in afternoon. What a companion is a small child +when it’s your own! Crape round hat for Mrs. Wodehouse and King Leopold. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Albemarle-Custs arrived safe after their perilous voyage in a saloon +carriage from London. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +Enjoyed a morning walk with Colin on the beach; although wrong, +preferred it to High Church with no place for my hat! + +[Sidenote: Dec. 21.] + +A walk with my boy; so companionable. The wife coming out, we dined +with Cust-Albemarle. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +By train from Shoreditch. Took charge of Louisa Eyre as far as Harling +Road. Dunmore for company. Did not get to Holkham until 8.20 P.M. +Picked up Burys _en route_. Family gathering. Dunmore engaged to +Gertrude. + +[Sidenote: Holkham, Dec. 24.] + +Party, besides family, Burys, Dunmore, Powerscourts, W. Coke, S. +Stephenson, Powell, Tridcroft, Caulfield, Porter. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +To morning service. How difficult it is to fall in with a good +preacher, especially when an extempore, with beard and moustache! Whist +in evening. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 26.] + +Shooting to-day--outskirts; twelve guns. Best of the shooting kept for +the Prince. My bag 25 hares, 2 rabbits, 2 pheasants. Jolly party in the +house. Henry Seymour and wife arrived. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +Walk with Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 28.] + +Shooting to-day, same guns nearly; more driving than shooting. Seymours +left. Gurdons came. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 29.] + +Walk with B. Gurdon: he all the talk. Blind man’s buff in afternoon. +Knocked my old head against chimney-piece--much to its inconvenience. +Dance after dinner in statue gallery; whist also. Bury fallen on by +Powerscourt, damaged ribs. + +[Sidenote: Quidenham, Dec. 30.] + +With Sophy Bury after luncheon to Wells--by train to Quidenham; kindly +welcomed. Louisa Charteris there, Bury children nice. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +The old year going out in a storm. Went to church. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXII + +A SHORE JOURNAL + + +[Sidenote: 1866. Jan. 1.] + +Out shooting with brother George--partridges. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 2.] + +Wild partridge shooting with Charles Clements: 20 brace, 5 hares, 6 +guns. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 3.] + +After shooting to meet friend Henry Eyre at Garboldisham. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 4.] + +Mount with scratch pack harriers. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Each afternoon I have sat with poor William Hoste; although he looks +cheery and well in face, am afraid his days are numbered. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 8.] + +Found Holkham full; with P. Powell, Elphinstone, Dunmore, Tredcroft at +the Inn, W. Coke and Sussex Stephenson going to Pinnock’s to make room. +Attended at 4.30 P.M. to receive the Prince and Princess of Wales, Lady +Morton and George Grey in attendance. + +[Sidenote: Holkham, Jan. 9.] + +Party in house to meet their Royal Highnesses, Duke and Duchess of +Roxburghe, Lord Beaumont, Lord and Lady Suffield, Lord and Lady +Spencer, Lord and Lady Powerscourt, Lords Hamilton and Dunmore and Mr. +de Grey, Edward and Di Coke, P. Powell, Tredcroft, Capt. Elphinstone, +W. Coke, S. Stephenson, Gen. Porter and T. Dunmore, Lord Alexander +Murray. Grand shooting; did not carry gun until the finish with the +rocketers, when I had one of Leicester’s. A cheery dance in the +evening, in which old and young joined. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 10.] + +A day on the marshes--gentlemen beaters, ladies attending luncheon. +Hamilton, Porter, and self fell into draining ditches. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +Weather bad--this, the best day’s shooting, postponed. Fair day of +sport though. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 12.] + +This the grand day. Over 2000 head killed. Luncheon under large tent. +Princess and ladies there. Dance in the evening, I dancing a quadrille +with the most charming of Princesses! + +[Sidenote: Jan. 15.] + +At Pratt’s--chat with John Hay. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +Joined wife at Deanery, Winchester. Party of twelve at dinner. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +By early train to Wolverton. Joined by Lord Clanwilliam and party going +to Sandringham, Prince and Princess coming back from visit to General +Hall. + +[Sidenote: Sandringham, Jan. 19.] + +Hounds met Sandringham, Prince giving me a mount. Princess out: capital +gallop. Enjoy my visit much. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +Percy Feilding and self taken by the Prince to shoot at Mr. Bagge’s; +excellent day. Pleased with my own performance. Not dressed in time +for dinner, but was spotted by her kind Royal Highness the Duchess of +Cambridge, who saw “the little Admiral” as he was trying to sneak in +behind the servants. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +To forenoon church, Charles Kingsley performing. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Departure of party; invited by Villebois with the Prince to shoot +driven partridges. 270 brace bagged during a continual rain. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +Finish to a most agreeable four days, Prince and Princess starting for +Duke of Sutherland’s, Staffordshire, Duchess of Cambridge and remainder +by rail to London. Dined with Cecilia Yorke. Party at Lord Powlett’s. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24.] + +Train to Bournemouth. Colin and May looking so well. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +Dined with Stephens; she, daughter of Sir H. Pottinger of China +notoriety. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +Dined with Albemarle-Custs. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Attended Bench, Winchester. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +Dined with Page, engineer, meeting T. Weller and Ward, artist. Pleasant +party. + +[Sidenote: Minterne, Feb. 10.] + +To friend Digby, I bringing a couple of horses from Chapman’s. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +Hunted with Sir Richard Glynn’s hounds. Met many friends. Plenty of +foxes, but no good run. Pleased with my mount. Medlycotts coming to +dinner. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +With Lord Poltimore’s hounds. Good run, Severe, heavy country. One +fall. Ground soft; several others ditto. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +Despatches from friend Read at Singapore. Should like to go out as +Governor. Stormy weather again. Young ones rabbit shooting, I helping +to cut up and clear away wreck of trees blown down. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 16.] + +Out with Poltimore. Good run with second fox. My usual ill luck; badly +lamed one of Chapman’s horses--cut on fetlock, off foreleg, supposed to +be by flint. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Afternoon service near Marker’s house. Small, very nice old-fashioned +place. Good sermon--rare event. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 19.] + +Came down prepared for the chase. Frost pronounced to be too severe, +especially over Poltimore’s downy country. Letter from Mr. Crawshay, +enclosing an interesting one from Bishop Colenso. Young Digby, Marker +and I, shot rabbits. Mr. Alexander Baring came. Porter left. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Letter from wife. Colin ill. Changed hunting costume and rode to +Dorchester; train to Poole. Found the children bad--severe colds. + +[Sidenote: Minterne, Feb. 21.] + +Horse from King’s Arms to Minterne. In time for luncheon. Walk with +Alexander Baring. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Hunted with B.V. hounds. Rode new horse of Chapman’s--fine animal. +Digby, Marker, Edward Digby and self--a good show from here. One fox +chopped; a second found. No scent. Jolly day though. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 23.] + +Young Digby and I to the B.V. hounds. Mounted by B. Brooke. Capital +jumper. Good short run, and part of another. Put hack up at +Littletrab’s--Webbes, Medlycott, and Surtees out. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 24.] + +With Poltimore’s hounds. Two good runs. Several falls, I, an absurd +one. Marker’s horse killed. My last day’s hunting. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Feb. 28.] + +Dear old Dean entered his ninety-first year. Attended court as grand +juryman. Managed not to be sworn in as foreman. Lunched with Arthur +Cumming. Rajah Brooke there. Returned to Winchester. Dinner party as +usual. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +Meeting of magistrates on cattle plague--Chamberlayne, Bullpitt, Wells, +Mulock, self. + +[Sidenote: Ashwarby, Mar. 12.] + +By train to London and Grantham. Whichcote to meet us. Welcomed to +Ashwarby. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Started for Croxton Park races. Weather unusually fine. Whichcote’s +horse, “Chance,” nowhere. Our party: Mrs. Franklin, Henry Gray, George +Fitzroy, Colonel Fane. Back in time for 8 o’clock dinner. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +Forenoon service. Longish sermon that I did not hear. Took leave of +kind friends. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 19.] + +To London. Attended levée, presenting Harry Stephenson. Dined with Mr. +Page, engineer. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, Mar. 26.] + +Attempt to fly-fish, having seen two rises. Lost two hooks in two +walnut trees. Margaret Garnier and Tom came, former to stay. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 31.] + +Winchester to attend bench. Luncheon at Deane’s. Thermistophles to win +City and Suburban. + +[Sidenote: April 3.] + +Another large party, chiefly doctors and “rooks,” also young Lord +Mulgrave. + +[Sidenote: April 4.] + +By early train home. Dined with Atherlys--first-rate. + +[Sidenote: April 10.] + +By train to London. Received, through George Elliot, an offer to take +command of the Paraguayan navy: they at war with the Brazilians. + + * * * * * + +This looked like business. Before giving answer, certain inquiries to +be made. My name would be removed from Her Majesty’s navy list, for +which I should require remuneration. A certain number of warships: +a couple of ironclads to begin with, and a place to reside in while +ships were being manned and fitted. £34,000 for loss of commission. +The first and greatest difficulty was consent of wife. The Paraguayan +agents appeared to be well satisfied. I intended to select, as soon +as a proper ship had been provided, the beautiful bay, Bahia, off the +Brazilian coast, as place of rendezvous. I had to provide officers +in anticipation. The agents had already provided charts, which I +daily studied. However, it all ended without smoke. Means were not +forthcoming; the whole affair was quickly forgotten! + +[Sidenote: April 21.] + +To Cosham, on Chamberlayne’s drag to Hambledown. Hunt races. Capital +meeting. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXIII + +HOME LIFE + + +[Sidenote: 1866. Yachting, April 25.] + +Embarked on board _Dream_, George Bentinck, in time for dinner. At +about 9 P.M. a fruit trading steamer, weather fine, water smooth, moon +shining bright, ran into two yachts: _Ione_, Captain R. Quin, R.N., +and _Intrepid_, Count F. du Monceaux, carrying away their bowsprits, +damaging bows and knocking two men overboard. _Ione_ was to have joined +us on a cruise. + +[Sidenote: _Dream_, R.Y.S., April 26.] + +10 A.M.--Got under weigh: light breeze from eastward. Cook, the same +artist Whichcote had in _Enchantress_. _Dream_ substantially built and +very comfortable; yawl rigged. Made fast to a buoy in Portland Harbour. +_St. George_ lying here, commanded by old shipmate E. Rice. Laid out +trammel for red mullet, which are generally plentiful and good here, +but caught whiting pont only. + +[Sidenote: Portland, April 27.] + +After breakfast landed with Bentinck. Convicts at work; got some fair +specimens of ammonite and fossil shells. Accompanied Rice on board _St. +George_; guns, stores on board, ready for service, to be manned from +coastguard. + +[Sidenote: April 29.] + +Bentinck read prayers to a well-conducted and attentive crew. + +[Sidenote: April 30.] + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +Visited works on the heights by convicts. When the fortifications are +finished, where will the men come from to garrison them? Saw the fossil +trees; some stumps erect, and others buried in the solid stone. + +[Sidenote: May 4.] + +My May’s birthday--promising little yearling. + +[Sidenote: Cherbourg, May 5.] + +Visited Consul Hammond on the hill, from whose garden the view is very +fine. Consul has two charming daughters. He came on board to dine. + +[Sidenote: May 7.] + +Slipped from the buoy. Sent a boat in for grub, standing off and on. +Made fast to a buoy under breakwater. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +Weather tide, nasty swell; felt too sea-sick to turn out before 2 P.M., +when we got into Portland Roads. Took leave of kind host in time for +mutton chops, wife dining with the Dean. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, May 20.] + +Forenoon church. Wife and I received Holy Sacrament, administered by +the Dean, perhaps last time. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Visit from Rev. Charles Kingsley, the author, who stopped to dine with +Dean, where we were. + +[Sidenote: May 27.] + +Forenoon church. Dear old Dean still reading, or rather repeating by +heart, the prayers as far as the Litany, in which he included the +Collect for the day--Trinity Sunday. + +[Sidenote: Bishopstoke, May 31.] + +Telegraph from friend, Page C.E. Off to London; knowing how much I +wanted a job, he informed me of his having undertaken to raise a large +ironship, the _London_, lying at the bottom of the Tay, below Dundee, +and offered me the job of navigating her into dock, or some place where +she could be got at for repair. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +Was invited by the Committee to fill the chair at R.N. Club dinner +to celebrate the anniversary of Howes’s victory, anniversary also +of action between _Shannon_ and _Chesapeake_. Poor little Fatshan +forgotten! + +While sitting on bridge over the Itchen in garden, observed a tomtit’s +nest in the muzzle of a gun captured on 1st of June in Fatshan +Creek--curious the uses to which a gun may be put. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +By train to Dundee. Wife and I in possession of apartments at the Royal +Hotel, where we expected to find Mr. Page. + +[Sidenote: Dundee, June 26.] + +Found Mr. Secretary Cooper; no further difficulties. Visited wreck near +low water with working party. The _London_ belonged to the London and +Dundee Steam Company; in December last came in collision with a steam +trader, _Harvest Queen_; both vessels went down. _Harvest Queen_ got +up, but being grounded on a bank, broke her back. Mr. Cooper, Secretary +to the Company, very civil and obliging. Mr. Low, one of the Directors, +also very civil. Page not arrived. + +Visited the _London_ in a steam tug. Two divers, under management of +Mr. Gorman, Admiralty man. There is an ugly fracture on the starboard +side, about fifteen feet to nothing, about three feet from the bottom +iron, jagged on both sides, the fore side of fracture bent inward, on +after side, outwards, supposed to be done at the time the _Harvest +Queen_ separated by backing astern. Proposed to cover the hatchway on +main deck with coverings secured. Divers report that seals have taken +up their quarters in the state-rooms, and haddocks swim freely in the +’tween decks. + +[Sidenote: July 14.] + +Change of Ministry--Lord Derby, Prime Minister; Sir John Pakington, +First Lord; Vice-Admiral Sir Alexander Milne, First Sea. _This_ does +not break my heart. + +Saturday, a drunken day amongst workmen in Scotland, or the _London_ +might, I think, have been lifted. 2 A.M. Sunday morning before we got +back. + + * * * * * + +Raising the _London_ proved a failure, and after spending two months +in Dundee, where wife and self were hospitably entertained by friends, +we returned to Bishopstoke at the end of August, Colin and May having +benefited by the bracing Scotch air. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXIV + +THE COMMAND IN CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1866. Dec. 13.] + +I insert the following by kind permission:-- + + (_Private._) OAKLEY PARK, SCOLE, NORFOLK, + _December 12, 1866_. + + MY DEAR SIR HENRY--I am glad to be able to tell you that I received a + letter from Sir John Pakington this morning, announcing his intention + of offering you, with the Queen’s approval, the China Command, as + Admiral King is going to give up, and I am only too happy if I have + in any small way been the means of getting Sir John to give you this + Command. + + Both he and the whole Admiralty are very well disposed towards you, + and I am sure that you will do all in your power to show them that + you are anxious to distinguish yourself during this Command, as you + always have done on previous occasions.--Believe me, yours very + sincerely, + (Signed) ALBERT EDWARD. + +God bless the Prince of Wales! + +A letter from Sir John Pakington followed. + +The gratification this afforded me I cannot well describe. The five +long years’ treatment I had received at the hands of the Admiralty +fretted me. + +The want of a residence, the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong, as well as +the improbability of the flagship remaining there for more than a few +days at a time, now that a Commodore has been appointed: the unsettled +state of our relations with Japan, as well as the uncertainty of the +period that I might retain the Command (being only five from the top +of the list of Vice-Admirals), were only a few of the difficulties +of a wife in China. However, I persuaded her to give up all idea of +going with me, promising, if at the end of my first year there were +two Vice-Admirals on the list above me, she might come out with the +children. + +Letters of congratulation flowed in from kind friends. From the Prince +of Wales; dear Dean Garnier; one from Charles Kingsley, which much +pleased me. + + (_Copy_) EVERSLEY RECTORY, WINCHFIELD, + _December 17, 1866_. + + MY DEAR ADMIRAL--I have this moment heard that you are to have + the China Squadron. Accept my most cordial congratulations, most + disinterested ones, likewise, for I am afraid that I shall not have + the pleasure of seeing you for some time to come. May you prosper and + enjoy yourself as you deserve, and kill a few more pirates: they seem + to be wanting you again in those parts. Believe me, with most kind + regards to Lady Keppel, ever yours, overjoyed, + + (Signed) C. KINGSLEY. + +Letters from shipmates, down to my old steward, William White, now +an Admiralty messenger, came pouring in, together with applications +from and about officers to be appointed, giving me more than enough to +do. Besides the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of Buccleuch and Richmond, +as well as my kind kinsman, Peregrine Cust, interested themselves in +getting me employment. + +King, in command in China, had expressed a wish to be relieved without +delay. His flagship, the _Princess Royal_, was ordered down to +Singapore so as to save the last of the northerly monsoon, bringing +the _Salamis_, commanded by my old friend and shipmate, Francis Suttie, +to receive my flag. + +I was ordered a passage by the overland route, to leave Southampton on +February 20, 1867. Risk, paymaster in the _Alert_, then in the Pacific, +and Harry Stephenson, commanding a gunboat on the Lakes of Canada, were +ordered home as my Secretary and Flag-Lieutenant, and I selected friend +Heneage as Captain. + +I was invited by the Prince of Wales to Sandringham to take leave, +and afterwards accompanied their Royal Highnesses to Holkham for the +Christmas week. On the way back stopped a day at Quidenham, and one +with friend General Eyre, who had taken Garboldisham. + +[Sidenote: 1867. Jan. 21.] + +On January 21 went to Sheerness and hoisted flag on board the +_Cumberland_, which was in due form saluted by the flagship of Sir +Baldwin Walker, who kindly took us into Admiralty House. At the same +time was hoisted the pennant on board _Rodney_, then in the basin. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Returned to London. Having received a letter from Cowell stating that +he had received Her Majesty’s command to invite me to Windsor on +February 25, to stay till the following day, the Admiralty ordered my +passage _viâ_ Marseilles instead of Southampton, giving me four or five +days’ grace. + +Went by invitation, to Miss Burdett-Coutts at Torquay to take leave of +my valued friend Rajah Brooke, who had lately had a paralytic stroke. +Found him partially recovered, but spirits good and his powerful mind +apparently unaffected. (I never saw him again.) Left early to join +wife, staying with the Custs at Bournemouth. Taking leave of these most +kind and hospitable relations we returned to Bishopstoke for the last +days. General Charles Fox had kindly offered his house, Addison Road, +Kensington: our likenesses being painted by Henry Graves had yet to be +finished. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 24.] + +Farewell dinner with H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Went down to Windsor. At Paddington found Lady Caroline Barrington, +availing myself of the carriage sent for her when we reached Windsor. +Dined, a household dinner, Lady Caroline Barrington and Miss Macdonald +in waiting with Biddulph and Cowell. After dinner, was summoned into +the presence of Her Majesty in the corridor, the Queen still wearing +the widow’s cap. However, I was received with one of Her Majesty’s +pleasantest smiles, and after some twelve minutes’ conversation, +chiefly about the Duke of Edinburgh and Count Gleichen, I was +graciously dismissed. Cowell saw me into my train. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 26.] + +Risk, lately married, was likewise ordered a passage _viâ_ Marseilles. +My boy stated when he saw me off in the train at Bishopstoke that +“Dadda would get out at the China station!” Found French steam packet +at Dover; rail to Paris and Marseilles, where we arrived at 12.30 P.M. +Took possession of the cabin allotted me on board the mail steamer, +opening into the saloon! + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXV + +BOUND FOR CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1867. Malta, Mar. 2.] + +It was half-past ten o’clock on the night of March 2nd when we +arrived at Malta. Clarence Paget came off; we landed together. Rem +Macdonald kept with me, but all the shops were closed, and the Carnival +commenced. Left a letter at Admiralty House and re-embarked. + +We were off before daylight, and arrived at Alexandria on the 7th. +Here, met my old friend James Willoughby, who had been appointed Joint +Superintendent, with a military man, to attend the transit through +Egypt of our troops to India. It was about four when we reached +Cairo. Here we were joined by Harry Stephenson, who had come _viâ_ +Southampton. We were informed that we were not to go on to Suez until +the following day. A rush was made to secure beds. The best had been +already bespoken by the Southampton passengers. However, Stephenson had +thought of us and secured rooms. The transit through Egypt is managed +by the Government. Most of the officials are French and wear the fez +and Egyptian uniform, as well as religion, for the time, with equal +ease. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +We made another start at 10 A.M. and took a plentiful supply of +oranges, which we found agreeable crossing the desert. At Suez I found +another friend in Dunn the Captain of the P. and O. steamer _Surat_; +we first became acquainted when he was in command of one of the hired +transports at Balaklava. He kindly took me in his gig to visit the +great dock and engineering works carried on by the French under M. de +Lesseps. Time, money, and perseverance will, I believe, complete the +great work of the Suez Canal. De Lesseps is sanguine at no distant +period of being able to pass a ship of the line from the Mediterranean +to the Red Sea. No English capitalists have, however, invested a +shilling in the affair, and the whole nation has come in for an amount +of abuse, attributing our reluctance to share in the French glory to +bad motives. + +We did not get away until the morning of the 9th. Among our passengers +was Dr. Milman, the newly-appointed Bishop of Calcutta. He read prayers +on Sunday and gave us a short extemporary discourse. On Perim we have a +lighthouse: some eight years ago, the mail steamer on passing observed +a French brig-of-war surveying; and on the afternoon of the next day +the French captain mentioned to Colonel Coghlan, the Governor of Aden, +with whom he was dining, that he was going the next morning to take +possession of Perim in the name of the French Government. Coghlan, +without rising from table, or taking any apparent notice of what had +been said, pencilled a few words on a scrap of paper to the Captain +of Artillery ordering him to proceed at once with a party and hoist +the British colours on the island. The French captain’s disappointment +the next day when he found himself forestalled would have been worth +seeing. A correspondence took place between the two Governments; when +it was proved that we had prior possession during our war with France, +when we retained Perim, but under a promise we should not fortify it. + +Cain is supposed to have been buried there, or thereabouts. + +[Sidenote: Aden, Mar. 14.] + +Early on Thursday morning we came to in Aden. The Resident, Colonel +Merewether, immediately sent off to invite me to Government House while +the _Surat_ coaled, and sent his carriage to the landing place. It was +pleasant to get into a cool airy house, and to write one’s letters +in peace and quiet. After dinner at three o’clock, we were taken to +see those wonderful water tanks that have lately been cleaned, whose +ancient date no one has been able to decide. The cement with which +the rock’s sides and bottom of the ravine are lined, as well as the +steps, is as perfect and in as good repair as if yesterday’s work. They +had had no rain for eighteen months, but an aqueduct was in progress, +which will shortly bring a supply from a stream some six miles distant. +Experienced much attention and kindness from Captain Dunn. + +[Sidenote: Galle, Mar. 23.] + +The cleanliness and comfort of the _Surat_ spoilt us for any other +vessel. Nevertheless, on arriving at Point de Galle at 8 A.M. on +the 23rd, we were transferred to _Ottawa_. The yards were manned as +the last little attention the Captain could pay me on quitting the +ship. On landing at Point de Galle I was received by Colonel Hodgson, +Brigadier-General and Commander-in-Chief. In the reign of George +II. this officer’s grandfather and the then Commodore Keppel had +been selected to act together for the capture of Belle Isle from the +French: a friendship between the families was then established and has +continued ever since. We passed the heat of the day in the “Queen’s +House,” occupied by the General, who, after having entertained us at +dinner, embarked with us on board the _Ottawa_: he going to the Straits +Settlements on an official inspection. + +We found the _Ottawa_ comparatively small, ill ventilated, with a +suffocating smell of opium. But there was the same civility and +attention that we had experienced on board all the P. and O. Company’s +ships. + +[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 29.] + +Anchored in Penang Roads. Went on shore during the six hours the +steamer was to stay, and visited my kind old friends, Mr. and Mrs. +Lewis, both Rodyks, and found one or two other friends of former days +still remaining. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +Found the Straits much improved by a light-vessel, as well as by a good +light on Cape Ricardo. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 31.] + +Sunday at 2 P.M. the _Ottawa_ steamed alongside the P. and O. Company’s +wharf in New Harbour, Singapore. Captains Edge of _Satellite_, Ross of +_Pearl_, Menzies of _Osprey_, and Suttie of _Salamis_ were there to +receive me, as well as friend W. H. Read and the Governor’s secretary, +Mr. Plow, brother to a lad who was with me in the _Forte_. Many other +friends were also there. + +As the new Governor, Sir Harry Ord, was to be installed in due form on +the morrow, a few arrangements for salutes and officers’ attendance had +to be made. At 3 P.M. my flag was hoisted on board the _Salamis_ and I +became Commander-in-Chief of the China station, and, being senior, at +once assumed the duties. It being Sunday negatived the salute until the +following morning. On landing was driven by friend Read to his house, +where, by previous arrangement, took up my quarters. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +Read’s house was on one of the numerous hills, each of which is crowned +by a residence. On looking out in the early morning from the verandah, +an extensive view in front of the town and anchorage, and from behind +of the country inland. How many associations of bygone days--some sad, +but many more, pleasant--were brought to mind. + +The morning commenced by saluting my flag. At noon we repaired to +the Town Hall to assist in the inauguration of the new Governor, and +the transfer of Straits Settlements from the Indian to the Colonial +Government. Separate salutes were fired on each occasion: an event in +the history of Singapore. + +[Sidenote: April 1 to 4.] + +Read kindly allotted a room in his new godown, which was close to a +landing-place, for an office, and the business of the station under the +new Chief was commenced. Receiving and returning visits occupied much +time, and in evenings, dinners to meet the Governor, the Military and +Naval Commanders-in-Chief, were the order of the day. The weather was +hot and the weight of epaulettes at these ceremonious dinners told. + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Early on the morning of the 5th, and sooner than was expected, +the _Princess Royal_ hove in sight. It seldom happens that a +Commander-in-Chief is relieved by a senior, and more than the usual +amount of jealousy between those in command and those whose reign was +so suddenly at an end took place. However, I found my old friend George +King the same as ever. Inspected _Salamis_ and examined the comfortable +quarters that had been fitted for the use of self and staff. + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +Returned King’s visit; was received on board _Princess Royal_ with +manned yards; finished with an excellent luncheon and inspection of the +many curios collected in Japan and elsewhere. Nephew Augustus Hill on +board in R.M.L.I. + +[Sidenote: April 8.] + +_Princess Royal_ was off at daylight. Had King been senior, I have no +doubt but that he would have remained longer. + +[Sidenote: April 13.] + +The _Pearl_ started in advance of us for Sarawak. Ross had permission +to use his own discretion about going up to the town. Paid a visit +to the Tumongong of Johore, who now styles himself “Maharajah.” I +recollect him in his father’s time in different circumstances. He has +been to England, received at Court, and decorated with the Star of +India. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, April 14.] + +Among the improvements at Singapore is an exceedingly neat and handsome +church. No want of opportunities for writing to England, as the French +packets run alternate weeks with the regular P. and O. Company. + +There are few ships without a favourite dog--in _Salamis_ Suttie has +one Carlo, an intelligent mongrel and great favourite. On shore he can +take his own part, although not too big. He is besides a good pointer +as well as retriever. + +[Sidenote: April 15.] + +I had fixed 15th April for the inspection of the _Satellite_ as well +as that for our departure for Sarawak, Labuan, Manilla, and Hong-Kong. +Before leaving the _Salamis_, I had a visit from M. Troplong, the +French Consul, who was very anxious that we should join his nation in +avenging the defeat they had experienced last year at the hands of the +Coreans. + +While I was inspecting the _Satellite_, my friend General Hodgson, with +Colonel Young, went on board the _Salamis_, which then got under weigh, +W. H. Read and Goodlake with us. _Satellite_ hoisted flag and saluted +the General on his leaving. There was consternation on board on its +being discovered that Carlo was nowhere to be found. His description +was written out and a reward offered on shore for his recovery, but it +was unfortunately the season when the policemen are directed to destroy +all stray dogs. Alas, poor Carlo! + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, April 16.] + +Observing from the bridge one of these small Nipa Palm islands floating +ahead, and not having gone to quarters when I inspected the _Salamis_, +I thought this would be a good opportunity, so we beat to quarters and +opened fire on the floating island. + +In the middle of the rushing about incidental to going to quarters, and +with the first cartridge, who should turn up but the dog Carlo, jumping +with delight on his master and everybody else. Welcome little dog! +the last time the magazine was opened was on Sunday, when the gunner +went down at 8.40 P.M. to get a cartridge for the nine o’clock gun, it +being dark, the dog must have got locked in. How he existed or what his +feelings were in that atmosphere he knows best. If I had not fancied +the Nipa Palm for a target, poor Carlo might have been smothered or +starved to death. + +[Sidenote: April 17.] + +[Sidenote: Sarawak.] + +Early morning found us off Tanjong Datu; before eight we had passed the +Santobong entrance, and soon after rounded Tanjong Sipang and stood +for the Maratobas entrance to the Sarawak River. These bold headlands +and magnificent scenery, although I had visited them frequently since, +brought fresh to my mind some five-and-twenty years ago, when I first +came up in the _Dido_ with James Brooke on board, and gave the first, +and nearly the only, help he ever had in securing his position; thereby +enabling him to carry out his philanthropic views for the benefit of +a strange race. If he has not succeeded to the full extent of his, +then, sanguine hopes, still there is no man living or to come who, +single-handed, will have benefited his fellow-creatures to the extent +Brooke has. + +In 1842 piracy, slavery, and head-hunting were the order of the day. +The sail of a peaceful trader was nowhere to be seen, not even a +fisherman’s hut along the length of this beautiful coast. Far into +the interior the Malays and Dyaks warred on one another. Now, how +different! Huts and fishing-stakes are to be seen all along the coast; +the town of Kuching, which on the visit of the _Dido_ had scarcely 800 +inhabitants, now has a population of over 20,000. At least 250,000 of +the aborigines who called themselves warriors are now peaceful traders +and cultivators of the soil. The jungle is fast being cleared to make +way for farms; and to prove what industry can do, Miss Burdett-Coutts +has taken a tract of 500 acres of jungle--far from being the most +productive soil that could be found--where everything that is likely +to thrive within the tropics will be introduced into this model farm. +Fruits such as pineapple, bananas, mangosteens, and oranges were doing +well. Rice and sago, mulberry trees to feed silkworms, were all in +progress. + +On arriving up the river at the Quop junction, we found the _Pearl_ had +proceeded up, drawing over 19 feet water. Rejoicing in our steaming up +this beautiful river, and just abreast of a shelf of rocks on which +I so nearly lost the _Dido_, I found that my ill-luck in finding the +bottom had not forsaken me. I believe the helm was ported to avoid +running down a canoe that attempted to cross our bows. And we were +bumped hard upon the rocks! With a rising tide we did not remain, but +we knew not until long afterwards what mischief was done. + +On approaching the capital, the _Pearl_ saluted my flag, and after +coming to an anchor higher up, she hoisted the flag and saluted that +of Sarawak. A guard of honour received me on landing, where I was met +by my old friend and shipmate, Charles Johnson, now Tuan Muda. He had +changed his name to that of Brooke. A nice boy, spoilt by assuming a +name he was then unfit for! _Pearl_ had not escaped the _Dido_ rocks, +and Captain Ross brought on board _Salamis_ a piece of false keel and +sheets of copper, which divers found displaced! These accidents are sad +bores, occurring too at a time when I wished to establish a reputation +at the Admiralty as a cautious and careful chief. + +[Sidenote: April 18.] + +_Pearl_ started against the afternoon flood-tide to precede us to +Labuan. We remained a few days to enjoy the hospitality of the Tuan +Muda, who repeatedly expressed the good effect our visit would +have--the influence which would be felt to the farther end of the +Rajah’s dominions. + +All the native chiefs came to visit me, the “Rajah Laut” (Sea King) +as they styled me, but most of my original friends who had fought for +the suppression of piracy had passed away. All the occurrences of that +stirring time were fresh in the memory of the children, and old Patingi +Alli’s son was now one of the principal chiefs, a most useful and +worthy man. His gallant old father was killed with many others while +serving with the _Dido’s_ boats. + +In the evenings we rode with the Tuan Muda along a two-mile road, cut +through that ever interesting and magnificent jungle. + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +About three in the afternoon we took our departure, the Tuan Muda +having supplied us with turkeys and geese that would have done credit +to a Norfolk farm. A sumpitan, a necklace, and three Dyak swords, some +deer horns and alligators’ eggs, were among the curios we brought away. + +The Tuan Muda is quiet, reserved, and gentlemanlike, with +a determination not to be surpassed, with a sense of +justice--qualifications fully appreciated by the chiefs. + +[Sidenote: Labuan, April 22.] + +8 A.M.--Came to in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. Several old friends came +on board--Hugh Low, Acting-Governor; Claude de Crespigny, Harbour +Master, formerly a lieutenant with me; and Dr. Treacher, one of the +Rajah’s earliest followers. Each of them I had known some twenty years +before. All the troops, part of a Sepoy regiment, formed a guard to +receive me on landing, when I became the guest of my friend Low. His +daughter has just come out from home, a nice-looking girl, not quite +seventeen. Her mother was a daughter of “Billy” Napier, and came out +with me in the _Mæander_. I was present at her wedding with Low. The +poor girl died at Labuan when her daughter, who is very like her, was +but two years old. Mrs. Low’s grave is in one of the loveliest spots of +Low’s beautiful garden, hidden from view by a grove of orange trees. +The boy, Brooke Low, is still in England. Low and De Crespigny kindly +added to my collection of shells. Harry Stephenson and self were put up +at Government House. W. H. Read and Goodlake, he being the bearer of a +letter from Yelverton, were received elsewhere. + +_Salamis_ proceeded in the afternoon to Coal Point. The island of +Labuan having been ceded by the Sultan of Brunei, was taken possession +of in the name of the Government by Captain Rodney Mundy under Sir +Thomas Cochrane, on account of the coal mines. These mines, owing to +bad management and a jobbing company, have not succeeded as they might +have done, but the island has been useful in other ways. Our occupation +has driven piracy from the N.W. Coast, though it is still rife to the +eastward of Borneo. The slave trade has likewise had a check, and their +treatment on the opposite coast has been ameliorated, as it is known +that slaves have only to escape to British territory to be free. Power +has passed from the Sultan and his chiefs. + +We had a Consul at Brunei once, but he has been replaced by a native +agent. The United States are represented by a disagreeable scamp named +Moss, who has hitherto lived by his wits. He persuaded the Sultan to +cede to him a portion of the north-eastern coast, as well as some of +the adjacent islands, to none of which had the Sultan any just claim; +fortunately no valid agreement was drawn up. When Mr. Moss had to make +a first deposit, no money was forthcoming; he enlisted a countryman, +by name Terrie, who was to find the needful and go partners on +condition that the property ceded was to be placed in his name.[4] The +title-deeds were returned to the Sultan to be altered. In the meantime +they fell out. No money was forthcoming, and the Sultan retained the +title-deeds, which Mr. Moss wished to have returned to him. + +[4] This portion of the island was ceded to the British North Borneo +Company by Royal Charter in 1881. + +As Mr. Moss could now neither borrow nor steal, he decided on the dodge +of setting fire to his own house, and accused the Sultan of having +instigated his people to do it, hoping not only to be revenged for the +detention of the title-deeds, but to receive indemnification. But the +cleverest fellows outwit themselves: the fact of his having removed +his wife and small effects to Labuan a few days previously, and then +the statement that he was fired on twelve times with musketry, which no +one heard, are facts. + +On Wednesday, being mounted by Low, we rode through the magnificent +jungle peculiar to Labuan, by the Coal Point Road; eight miles brought +us there. At 10 A.M. went on board _Pearl_, under manned yards, and +inspected a perfect man-of-war. She sailed in the afternoon for +Hong-Kong; we took until night to complete coal and followed in the +morning; steering for the Palawan passage with every prospect of fine +weather. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXVI + +THE CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1867. Hong-Kong, April 30.] + +On the 30th April found myself once more entering Hong-Kong by the +Lyemoon passage. Commodore Oliver Jones’s broad pennant was flying +in the _Princess Charlotte_, a huge three-decker, painted yellow and +white, and looking shorter and higher than any Ning Po junk. A small +fleet of gunboats looking very like business. Stopped on board to +receive the usual official visits. + +[Illustration: _The Commodore._] + +[Sidenote: May 1.] + +At noon the shore guns fired a salute, which was cleverly returned +by the gunboats firing in succession. The Governor having sent to +know the time when I landed, at 2 P.M. was received by Colonel Guy +and a guard of 73rd Regiment. His Excellency, Sir Richard MacDonnell, +having sent his carriage, I went, accompanied by the Commodore and +Flag-Lieutenant, at once to get visit of ceremony over. We found His +Excellency and charming wife. Took up my quarters with old friend John +Dent at the palace of Dent and Co.; a room was allotted for Harry +Stephenson, as well as for W. H. Read. The flag was transferred to the +_Princess Charlotte_. + +[Sidenote: Hong-Kong.] + +The Opera company small, but for a beginning very fair, and included +three French ballet dancers. My conveyance was a chair with four +bearers, good-tempered fellows whom no work could tire. Was made an +honorary member of the Artillery and Engineers, as well as of the 73rd +Mess. The wife of Colonel Guy was the eldest daughter of my old chief +Admiral Plumridge, as was also Mrs. Cumming in the same regiment, by +his second wife. + +[Sidenote: May 4.] + +Read, Stephenson and self went to Macao, in an American-built steamer +running between Macao and Hong-Kong. Nothing could be cleaner or more +comfortable than these vessels. + +[Sidenote: May 5.] + +We left Hong-Kong at 10 A.M. and entered the inner harbour three hours +and a half later. We put up at the house of Dent and Co., provisions +and servants having been sent with us. Considerable improvement had +been effected by the last governor in roads, cleanliness of streets, +etc. A lighthouse had also been built, but as these improvements +required money that might otherwise have been remitted to the mother +country, the governor was not allowed to remain. After dinner we +visited the gambling-houses, recently licensed, curious to see, but too +hot to remain in for many minutes. + +The rules of the game appeared to me less unfair for the player than +most games of the sort. A small square cloth in the centre of the table +is marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the sides. Before placing your stake, a +heap of small pice is placed by the dealer or keeper before him on the +table, which is partially covered by a cup, the pice are then withdrawn +by a pointed stick or long steel needle. As each four are separated +they are swept into the original heap from which the handful had just +been taken. Four at a time are so withdrawn until the last lot, under +five, remain. It is according to the number left whether 1, 2, 3 or 4 +win. + +For instance, if three remain, and you put your money on, you get three +times your stake. I was next an American gentleman who had had a dream +in which No. 1 was the winning number; in backing his dream he had lost +$1400. + +[Sidenote: May 6 to 14.] + +On Sunday 5th the English mail arrived at Hong-Kong. Our letters were +sent to us in one of the gunboats, the first letters we had received +since leaving home. All good news with the exception of the death of +Sir Phipps Hornby, removing one admiral from the active list, and +rendering the probability of my completing my three years less. + +[Sidenote: Hong-Kong.] + +Returned to Hong-Kong in time for Dent’s breakfast. Tuesday, visited +the new docks, which are being excavated at Aberdeen, magnificent +docks, 400 feet long, capable of holding any ironclad likely to be sent +to this station. + +One afternoon, partly walking and partly being carried in chairs, we +went over the island by the gap to Dent’s house at Pokofolum, which +must be a delightful residence in the S.W. monsoon: it has both a +vegetable and flower garden. Some Formosa fallow-deer were thriving in +a secured place. Being pressed for time, we returned in our chairs, +Overbeck on foot, and reached the town-house in forty-seven minutes! +Six miles. I had to dine at Government House, a large party. Commodore +Jones entertains lavishly. He gave me an excellent dinner the other +day. His quarters on board the _Princess Charlotte_ are roomy, airy, +and most comfortable. Dined also a large party, with Mr. Whittal, +Jardine and Matheson’s representative. They have a very nice house +prettily situated on a hill. The table, furniture, etc., were as good +as money could procure. Around the rooms were some superb race cups, +such as I fancied were only to be seen on the front of the stand at +Goodwood. + +[Sidenote: Whampoa, May 14.] + +Harry Stephenson and I started by packet steamer for Whampoa. Fine +boats, American build, leave Hong-Kong and Canton every morning, +meeting somewhere about the Bogue Forts. They now belong to a company, +and fly the English flag. They perform the journey generally within +eight hours, carrying cargo, many Chinese passengers and a few +Europeans, seldom more than ten. + +We got out at Whampoa to see the _Pearl_ and _Salamis_ in dock. _Pearl_ +but little damaged, a small portion of her fore-foot and false keel. +More serious the _Salamis_: four-and-twenty of her timbers fractured, +and damage to keel; necessary to take out two foremost boilers, both of +which required repair. Advantage of this opportunity was taken to have +accommodation on deck improved. All the work well superintended and +conducted by Mr. Gillies, a most useful servant to the Dock Company. + +Went on in the _Banterer_, commanded by my old shipmate Pringle, to +Canton, but even this small vessel could not keep off the bottom while +I was on board--passing the second barrier she bumped heavily, and, as +I found afterwards, rubbed copper off. + +[Sidenote: Canton, May 15.] + +We anchored off, what I recollect as a densely populated floating +street of flower boats. All that portion of the river has since been +walled and filled in, forming an island on which were the foreign +consulates and residences. The island retains the name of Shaimen. On +landing I was received by the Consul-General, Robertson, and, after +looking over the buildings, we, Stephenson and self, got into chairs, +and proceeded into the city of Canton, the Consul’s residence being +within the Tartar quarter and interior wall, inside this great walled +city, closed for so many centuries against all foreigners. + +We traversed nearly three miles of narrow, densely-populated streets +before we reached the Tartar yamun. Robertson had the good taste not to +alter anything beyond the addition of a little European furniture. The +building was old, and I occupied a bed which had most likely been slept +in by some Tartar general when they captured Canton from the Chinese +in the seventeenth century. At the back of the house were a court and +out-buildings, and the remains of a large building which caught fire, +nobody knew how, when occupied by our troops in 1861. + +Beyond this again was a park-like enclosure, containing small hills, +trees, and deer. Although not more than 15 acres, the extent was great +when you consider that it was in the heart of a densely-populated +walled city. The weather was bad, and we did not see half of what we +might had we had more time. + +Nothing, however is more curious than the city itself, the shops and +the narrow streets along which our chairmen travelled at what appeared +a reckless pace, bellowing to make people get out of the way, but +somehow hurting nobody. We visited some of the prisons containing +culprits under sentence of death; they appeared indifferent as to their +fate, looked and laughed at us. Others at work making or embroidering +clothes--not for themselves. About 1500 are executed annually! At +the entrance gate to the Tartar General’s yamun are large figures of +nondescript animals carved in granite and of great antiquity. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +My friend Robertson bore a strong resemblance to Lord Nelson and Lord +John Russell. Whether he had guests or not he sat daily at the head of +his dinner-table in great form. A row of servants on the right, with +several dogs in front, all looking equally solemn. On the left was a +long sideboard variously ornamented; plates and cups of silver. + +After dinner, when everything was quiet, I noticed rats playing about, +picking up crumbs the Consul had thrown out during dinner. I drew his +attention to them and proposed to set the dogs on; to which Robertson +objected, saying they did no harm, and that if frightened they would +throw out such a stench of musk no one could stay in the room. The deer +in his park would scarcely move out of his way. + +Took leave of our kind host, who would accompany us to the steamer, +lying ready alongside a wharf built in front of the site of the old +factories, where, some quarter of a century before, when in command of +the _Dido_, I had passed many pleasant days. Not a vestige remains to +indicate the site. + +Accompanying the captain round the decks and among the various groups +of Chinamen, some gambling, others opium-smoking, we came to the +women’s department, old and young, with children of various ages--some +at the breast. In the fore part of all I observed three old hags of +repulsive aspect; some had three or four infants slung around them, +varying in age from two months to a year. These, I found, were for +sale, a ready market being found among the less poor Chinawomen of +Hong-Kong; the price asked me for the finest was four dollars, but that +was an exorbitant demand. How the old hags came by the children is all +conjecture. + +[Sidenote: Hong-Kong, May 18.] + +Returned to Hong-Kong. In the afternoon accompanied the Governor to +visit Stone Cutter’s Island, on which his predecessor had built a +magnificent prison, but which, owing to the energetic measures lately +adopted for ridding the island of bad characters and marking the worst +in the face and publicly scourging those that return, crime has so +much diminished that the prison in Hong-Kong is found sufficient to +accommodate those that require such lodgings. + +His Excellency’s visit on this occasion was to ascertain the opinion +of the Commodore and myself as to the feasibility of transferring +the naval establishment to the island. The position would have been +good had it been selected at first, but as £200,000 has been laid out +on the one in Victoria the Board of Admiralty would not be likely +to sanction the extra expense. There is no doubt that the naval and +military establishments in Victoria are considerable obstructions to +the improvement of the city, and prevent the continuation of a sea +or harbour frontage and sea wall, with a road, or praya, which is +intersected for more than 3000 feet at the part occupied by us and the +military. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +_Pearl_ being ready for sea the flag was shifted from the _Princess +Charlotte_ to her. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +Being Her Majesty’s Birthday the ships were dressed with masthead +flags, and at noon a general royal salute was fired, batteries and +ourselves, the reports sounding with great effect under the high land. +Soirée at Government House, everybody attending. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Pearl_, May 27.] + +Embarked on board _Pearl_, when I was received with manned yards, to +visit different parts of the station. _Salamis_ still under repair. At +2 P.M. returned the Commodore’s salute and steamed out of Hong-Kong +by the Cap Sing Moon passage, having been a month most kindly and +hospitably entertained by John Dent and his cheery and good partner +Oberbeck. + +[Sidenote: Swatow, May 28.] + +We arrived early off Swatow, but having to wait for water over the bar +came to outside. It was 9 P.M. before we brought up off the Consul’s +house, on the right bank and opposite side to the town. These Swatow +Chinese are a turbulent and troublesome set, hardly yet accustomed +to the sojourn among them of the hated barbarian. An attempt made by +a Mr. Richardson to establish in a house he had built and furnished +a few miles up the river was opposed by the natives, over whom the +authorities appear to have little or no control. They damaged the +house, carried off the furniture, and ill-treated Mr. Richardson’s +servants. The gunboat _Drake_ had gone up to look after other matters. +The Consul, Mr. Caine, was absent, and the duty done by his Vice, Mr. +Cooper, who hailed from Norfolk, and had a pretty wife and a boy nearly +as fine as my Colin. + +We exchanged visits, the Consul getting his salute. Swatow is an +uninteresting place to the visitor, but an extensive trade is carried +on from a large city some distance up, Ch’ao-Chow-fu. In the month of +March last the U.S. barque _Rover_ sailed from Swatow, got into a gale +off Formosa, struck on a rock, made more water than the pumps could +keep under, when the captain and crew took to the boats and saw their +ship founder. + +The captain had his wife and first mate with him and a Chinese crew, in +another boat was a mate and also a Chinese crew. The boats separated, +and after a while the captain landed on the southern coast of Formosa, +and while preparing a meal was attacked. They retreated to hide +themselves in the jungle, and all were supposed to have been murdered +with the exception of one Chinaman, who hid himself until dark and then +found his way to a China village some twelve miles off. + +He subsequently reached Amoy, where he found no American man-of-war, so +went to the _Cormorant_ and stated the above facts to Commander Broad, +who lost no time in proceeding to the spot; he found the _Rover’s_ boat +where her captain had left her, but on attempting a further examination +he was fired on from the jungle. His boat was shot through and one +man wounded. Unable to see his foe, after sending a few rounds into +the jungle he wisely withdrew. The United States Admiral sent a small +vessel, which could get no satisfaction, and consequently could give +none to the friends of the missing captain and his wife. + +[Sidenote: Swatow, May 29.] + +During the afternoon of the Wednesday an old American acquaintance +of former years at Whampoa, Mr. Botefuhr, came on board to solicit +interference and assistance from me, which he stated he had in vain +applied for to his own Admiral. Botefuhr’s wife is sister to the wife +of the captain of the _Rover_, and although it is known that many were +killed there is as yet no positive proof that the captain and his wife +were slain. My poor friend clung to the hope that the savages would not +have the heart to murder one so fair as his sister-in-law, who was so +young, and, as he described her, “only a few months married, comely to +look on, and of nice proportions.” It is difficult for me to interfere +without causing jealousy on the part of the United States Admiral. My +friend, Botefuhr, has already drawn comparisons not complimentary to +his countryman. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +Started in charge of a pilot, a European, of whom there are seven, at +10 A.M., having crossed the bar, found the wind fresh from the N.E., +and shaped our course inside the Namoa Island, during daylight the +pleasantest route; finding the wind freshening we brought up for the +night in Tong Sang, a well-sheltered anchorage. + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +Weather fine, at 5 A.M. steamed out; performed the 74 miles to Amoy +with three boilers in seven hours. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXVII + +NORTH CHINA PORTS + + +[Sidenote: 1867. Amoy, May 31.] + +At Amoy we found the _Cormorant_, a pretty fast despatch gunboat, +Commander Broad, whose master came with him and piloted us to a berth +in the inner harbour, thereby exciting the jealousy of our own smart +master, who might have made a mistake in the passage between the +town and the island of Kulangsau. Later in the year this place was +celebrated for that prince of fruits, the pumalo. Of course there are +many others, but none to be compared to it. + +The trade here, although one of the first ports open to foreigners, is +not equal to Swatow. It is one of the outlets for the enormous province +of Fuh Kien, and an accessible port. There is a rare animal here in the +shape of a really _active_ Chinese Admiral, and piracy within reach of +his station is unusual, although it is supposed that time, place and +opportunity offering, his cruisers are not above levying blackmail. +A good dock, 286 feet long, and capable, owing to a great rise and +fall of tide, of taking in vessels drawing 17 feet, into which the +_Cormorant_ will go on Tuesday next for repairs. Our Consul appears +to be conspicuously and well-housed on the highest part of Kulangsau, +commanding a view both up and down the river. On this island most +Europeans live, keeping their offices in the town of Amoy. Coal to be +had, and always ready, but the coolies lazy, coal being sent in ten or +twelve-ton boats. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +French mail arrived, bringing news up to May 6. A wonderful change is +here! No news of importance. Rumours of warlike preparations. Nations +hesitate nowadays before striking a first blow, but those armed to +the teeth are not so easily kept in check. The only really sad news +from England is the continued suffering of that most amiable of all +Princesses. + +Broad gave me a pair of walrus teeth, put on board him by a +suspicious-looking junk, manned and armed for war, but there was no +proof of aggression. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +Inspected _Cormorant_ at 10 A.M. In excellent order. Received with +manned yards. No room for ball practice, but clear for action, and guns +loaded within three minutes. Noon.--Weighed in _Pearl_ and steamed out, +two boilers. An old _St. Jean d’Acre_, Shearman, chief engineer. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +In the morning we were off the Dogs’ Islands, and a pilot shortly on +board. Although we made sail, we were too late to save the high water +over the bar; brought up until the morning. While at anchor observed +numbers of curious-looking snakes floating past; they did not appear +lively, and the pilot pronounced them to have been washed out of the +paddyfields. Had one caught in a bucket. It appeared more dead than +alive, and it was with difficulty that we discovered its mouth and +something like eyes; it was a brownish colour, about a foot long, and +as transparent as a jelly-fish: some of us thought it was a piece of +seaweed, even after handling. + +The tail end appeared more lively than the head; at different parts of +the body it had the appearance of having been ripped in two by a piece +of thread tied round the body. Some one on board had read in some book +that if you broke these snakes at their apparent joints, each piece +became a separate snake. The head was considerably thicker than the +other part of the body; it tapered gradually to the tail. While moving +in the water it looked like a lively and dangerous animal, but in a +basin of water it was almost inanimate. + +[Sidenote: June 5.] + +Soon after 9 A.M. weighed and steamed into the entrance of the river +Min. Carrying the tide with us, we made rapid progress through a +tortuous channel until we came to the contracted entrance of the Kiu +Pai Pass, when nothing can be prettier than the scenery, which again +opens into a wide expanse for three or four miles, and then the channel +enters between high rocky hills, not unlike the best parts of the +scenery on the Rhine. + +Three miles of this brought us to Pagoda Island, where we anchored. The +city of Foo-chow is some ten miles higher up, but to be approached only +by small craft. From this port three clipper tea-ships started last +year, performing the most extraordinary sea race on record, the three +ships arriving in London within a few hours of each other. Several +are now loading and two or three are already off--beautiful ships, +reminding one of fine old sailing days of _Dido_, which class of ship +they greatly resemble. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +On June 7, steamed down against the tide, and steered for the +Yang-tse-Kiang. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Having picked up a pilot off Gützlaff Island, we came to in the evening +off Woosung, doubtful whether, with our draught, 20 feet 2 inches, we +could proceed over the bar. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +Having transported some of the guns forward, we crossed the bar and +steamed up to Shanghai. + +[Sidenote: Shanghai.] + +Little like the place we took possession of twenty-five years ago. It +is difficult to recognise the Chinese element at all in this great +commercial port; even the pilots are European. The buildings, roads, +carriages, consular flags, merchant steamers, as well as those vessels +propelled by rope and canvas, all tend to hide from sight that Shanghai +still belongs to China. French, American, and Prussian men-of-war are +here. No saluting on account of close quarters. + +Landed in afternoon; kindly taken in by George Fitzroy and his wife, +having known him from the time he was of the same age as a sweet little +girl resembling what he was. The comfort and quiet of this place is +what I wanted. Mrs. Fitzroy is a charming person. Although requiring +quiet, had not time to frame an excuse before I found myself engaged to +dine with Mr. Winchester, the Consul, to meet Sir Rutherford Alcock, +who is here making his annual tour of visits to the Consulates at the +Treaty Ports; with him are Mr. Conolly (very tall) and Major Crossman +of the Royal Engineers, employed by Government to inspect and report +on all buildings within its jurisdiction, naval, consulate, colonial, +or military; also my old friend Wade, once of 98th, perhaps the most +efficient scholar and interpreter in China. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Rattler_, June 11.] + +A court-martial detained the _Pearl_ and _Rattler_ (in charge of +station). _Argus_ also here, attending on the Minister, with a new +commander just appointed in Hallowes. + +_Algerine_, with a smart little lieutenant, Domville, will proceed +south as soon as her commander is clear of the doctor. We have also +_Acorn_, hospital ship, Mr. Roe in charge, an intelligent surgeon. + +[Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago] + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +Although not well enough to enjoy dinner at Consulate on Tuesday, was +pleased at meeting Sir Rutherford Alcock, when we arranged for my visit +to Peking. + +We have a coal depot and store-houses here, away from any river +frontage, and as inconveniently situated as a place of the sort could +be. An advantageous sale, as well as purchase of a more suitable site, +might now be made, but the Admiral is not invested with the necessary +power. + +The Vice-Consul, Mr. John Markham, has promised me some good shooting, +three days’ journey from this, in the proper season, after September. +Heard of the failure of the house of Dent and Co. Independent of the +ruin of so many poorer people, that of John Dent causes universal +sympathy and regret. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Manila_, June 15.] + +Shifted flag from _Rattler_ on board _Manila_. At noon sailed, having +written the Commodore of my intention to go to Nagasaki, which may +reach Hong-Kong in time to save his going to Shanghai. Yesterday the +Fitzroys had a dinner party, including the Minister, the _attaché_, +Conolly, Wade, and Commander Swan. Birds’-nest soup. + +[Illustration: _Sir Rutherford Alcock._] + +Had conversation with Sir Rutherford as to the next steps towards +the suppression of piracy. We agreed that the disarming, as far as +heavy guns were concerned, of all traders was necessary. He thought +the Chinese Government were sincere in their expressed wish to put it +down. The promised co-operation with other European Powers is necessary +to prevent jealousies. In searching junks for guns the presence of +a responsible Chinese authority necessary. Respectable interpreters +should be found for our cruisers. + +After I have consulted with my brother Admirals of France and United +States, Russia, Prussia and Netherlands too, if I can get them, +intend to address Sir Rutherford on the subject, and get them to do +likewise to their respective Ministers. Sir Rutherford agreed with +me that the small Portuguese settlement of Macao was a nuisance--the +haunt of pirates: the centre of that diabolical trade in kidnapped +coolies, worse in its features than the traffic in slaves. Besides, the +Portuguese have no legal right to Macao. + +To enjoy a visit to Peking one should go up about the middle of +September, so as to have a walk on the hills where all the Foreign +Ministers reside during the hottest of weather, returning to Pekin the +last week in that month. Mr. Conolly seemed to think that he could +easily obtain some of the crossoptalon, the species of pheasant so +coveted by Lord de Grey. + +[Sidenote: Nagasaki, June 18.] + +Entered the deep bay which forms the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki. +Feeling still invalidy, took advantage of a lull to land in a boat +brought off from shore by Mr. Alt, and proceeded at once to his +prettily-situated residence high up on the side of a hill. Flag was +shifted to _Pelorus_. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Pelorus_, June 30.] + +On 24th the weather held up and we formed a riding party of +six--Haswell, Risk, Lindau, Norton, Alt, and self--and landed where +the ponies had been sent, and rode to the village of Tokito. Nothing +can be prettier than the scenery, while every available flat was +under cultivation, chiefly padi; the fields, with their mud banks, +were small, but the irrigation perfect. Natives simple and civil to a +degree. The village, prettily situated on the bank of what appeared to +be an inland sea, was inhabited by fishermen. Our ponies were entire +and savage, kicking each other whenever opportunity offered; roads not +much near Nagasaki, but particularly good when we got within Prince of +Omera’s territory. + +Risk led the way on a pulling pony, much against his will. On our +return, tide being out and boat unable to come up to the spot at which +we disembarked, we rode home through the town, the most curious feature +of the ride being the facility with which the ponies travelled up and +down a steep flight of stone steps. + +Had one short afternoon in the china and curio shops. Market in +everything spoilt since the influx of Europeans; prices higher, and +china, particularly that called the egg china, much inferior to what +I had formerly received from here. Mr. Lindau gave me a magnificent +specimen of the teredo or borer--the largest I have seen. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, June 26.] + +On the 26th _Salamis_ arrived, having the Commodore on board on leave. +Shifted flag. The pending troubles in Japan appear to have excited +the Saimonirai to renewed animosity against Europeans, and it became +necessary to restrict the leave of the men, and to oblige officers to +carry revolvers. I think my secretary, W. B. Risk, and nephew, Dob +Crosbie, are now alive owing to this precaution; for one afternoon, +returning in company from the native town of Nagasaki, a two-sworded +man, heated by liquor, threw up his sleeve and was proceeding to draw +his sword, when Risk’s revolver made its appearance, and the Saimonirai +swaggered past. A few moments later, a number of Europeans in hot +pursuit of the same man, informed them that he had cut down some people +in the settlement, and the Portuguese Consul had barely escaped with +his life. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_. Inland Sea.] + +4 A.M.--Weighed; dirty weather. So left the pretty scenery to keep for +some more auspicious day. Made for Spex Straits, through which passage +nothing can be prettier, but Japan is a new and interesting country, +with--apparently--everything within itself, while the wants of the +natives are few, and all appear happy and contented; a state of things +to which the boasted superiority and civilisation of the European will +speedily put an end. + +Beautiful pasture appeared on most of the hills, but beyond a few +bullocks and buffaloes as beasts of burthen, and for agricultural +purposes, cattle are not required by these simple people. They look +strong and healthy, but eat no meat. + +On emerging from these narrow and winding Straits, in which there is +depth of water for the largest ships, we made the entrance to the +Inland Sea through the Straits of Shimonoseki; the rain kept off, +and the sea without a ripple, the _Salamis_ made light work. As we +entered the Straits, in addition to the ever-changing scene of hills +and valleys, wood and pasture, coves, inlets, and snug anchorages, the +scent of flowers was wafted off. + +[Sidenote: July 1.] + +Daylight, got under weigh from off Kokura and steamed through the +Straits; a strong tide against us gave time to enjoy the scenery +and examine the numerous curious-looking trading vessels, arriving, +departing, and at anchor off the town of Shimonoseki. After passing +these we came to the dismantled batteries which Chioshiu, the Prince +of Nagato, considered strong enough to guard the Inland Sea against +all foreigners, but which in 1863 Admiral Kuper, assisted by the +French, proved to the contrary, and by treaty afterwards stipulated +that the fortifications should not be rebuilt, an agreement which has +been strictly adhered to. After passing the Straits and the weather +continuing dirty we ran for the island of Hime Sima, and came to off a +large fishing village. + +[Sidenote: Inland Sea, July 2.] + +Weighed at 4.30 and steered to the eastward through this beautiful +Inland Sea, altering course occasionally as we threaded our way between +the islands, bringing up in the afternoon on the south side of Cape +Kadzitoi, a snug anchorage, near a fishing village, but the boats had +not come in. Tried our seine on a sandy part of the beach, but without +success. Natives venturing alongside and afterwards on board with much +coquetting,--simple, quiet, good sort of people. Got a pretty bivalve +and a helix that must have been washed from the land by the rains; with +more time some fine shells might be collected. + +[Sidenote: July 3.] + +4.30.--Weighed and stood to the eastward, passing islands on both sides +with all the appearance of a pretty, moving panorama--water perfectly +smooth. Numerous native boats about, some fishing, while others were +under their grotesque but picturesque sails. + +[Sidenote: July 4.] + +4.30 A.M.--Weighed. Fine weather. Sun shining, it being just before +the time of high water, met the last of the flood, and passed through +the Naruto (Japanese for gate of the sea), ran alongshore to the S.E. +Coming into the open we met a strong breeze and head sea. By the +morning we had again run into fine weather. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama to Yedo, July 5.] + +At 4 P.M. we came to in Yokohama, but on receiving a letter from Sir +Harry Parkes, inviting self and three friends to Yedo, weighed again +and ran the distance to Yedo, 15 miles, in an hour and five minutes. +The French admiral, Rose, in the _Guerinere_, had saluted my flag as +soon as they could well make it out. _Perseus_ returned, _Basilisk_ +and two gunboats in the anchorage. Commander Stevens ill on shore in +hospital. Several men-of-war of various descriptions, wearing the +Government flag of the Tycoon, or more properly Shogoon, which I trust +we shall have the means of licking into shape. The British Government +well represented in Sir Harry Parkes, who appears to be very properly +and prettily mated, with three children here and two at home, one of +those here a fine and handsome boy, same age as my Colin. + +[Illustration: _Harry Parkes._] + +[Sidenote: Yedo, July 10.] + +Yesterday was fixed for our visit to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, +an office lately decided upon, at the instigation of Sir Harry. We +formed a respectable _cortège_. The Minister with his staff of three, +Commodore, Secretary, Flag-Lieutenant and self. Orders--cocked hats +and side arms. We were all well mounted, escorted by our guard of +eight lancers, two of whom preceded. The rear of all was brought up +by a native guard, mounted on disreputable-looking ponies. Notice had +been given of our intended visit, and the usual curiosity exhibited. +Our route to the castle lay through some three miles of town. We were +properly received. Guards in the entrance kneeling. In the audience +chamber table and chairs to suit such visitors provided. Tea, tobacco, +saki, pipes and sweetmeats. + +Conversation commenced, as in all civilised places, about the weather; +then, naval matters, site for the buildings, for the instructing +officer to live in, assurances of good feeling, etc., during which a +couple of hours slipped away, when we returned as we came. + +Was struck with the ease and gentleman-like bearing of these Japanese +officials. Their costume dark, and nothing imposing about it, as in +case of the Chinese. Hearing that I was about to return to Yokohama, my +visit was returned this morning by the minister and officials connected +with the Naval Department. + +[Sidenote: Yedo, July 11.] + +We had another ride yesterday, as we have had each day, through this +wonderful and interesting city. We rode to the bridge, from which +distances to all parts of the kingdom are reckoned, by the outer mole, +through such pretty scenery of water, green banks and trees, that after +having made a tour of some five-and-twenty miles, it was difficult to +believe that we had never been outside the town of Yedo. During the day +the following little event unfortunately occurred:-- + +The minister is not allowed to move without being followed by a dozen +of these ragamuffin guards, which the Japanese Government maintain are +necessary for his protection, but which are nothing more than mounted +spies--now and then, when we were trotting, one of these fellows would +pretend to get excited and dash past the minister. Each day some of +them had been checked and ordered back to their places in the rear; but +yesterday one of them, whether from over-excitement or impudence is not +known, dashed past me, and was stopped by Sir Harry Parkes, who applied +the crop of a heavy hunting whip across his shoulders and held the same +over the head of the officer or man in charge, threatening to serve him +out also if he did not keep his men in better order. Sir Harry then +made one or two mounted orderlies turn the whole native squad of twelve +into a side road; one that led to the inner route. They scampered off, +a ridiculous and ignominious retreat. + +However, before we got home, we saw four following, but at so +respectable a distance that a looker-on could not have discovered that +we were the objects of their observation. The only pity was, that the +minister did not leave the dirty work of inflicting the chastisement +to one of the orderlies or one of his staff, who all looked as if they +would have liked the fun. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama, July 22.] + +At sea in the _Salamis_, _Serpent_, surveying vessel, Captain Bullock, +in company. Sir Harry Parkes to follow in _Basilisk_. Our object to +meet at Hakodadi, then proceed north and to the West Coast and decide +on the best port for trading purposes. Harbour, with calls to make, +visitors to receive, exercise to take, curio shops, etc., is not the +place to keep up a journal. After six days at Yedo, partaking of the +hospitality of Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, the _Salamis_ arrived and +took us back to Yokohama. I was promptly called on by the French +Admiral Rose, one of the most agreeable of Frenchmen, his chief of +staff, Flag-Lieutenant, and all appeared to be of same stamp. + +I visited Monsieur Leon Roches, Minister Plenipotentiary, on whom, I +was informed, I ought to call; likewise a good fellow, and who appeared +to be, as described by his countryman Rose, more of the Zouave Colonel +than the Diplomatist. There is more to see and be amused with in +Yokohama than at most places. The Club is well managed by a ci-devant +marine officer, W. H. Smith, but that which makes the society and place +most agreeable is the presence of the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk +Regiment), commanded by Colonel Knox. After having given me a grand +entertainment (proper word, I believe) we were made honorary members of +their mess. Then a party was formed to visit the statue of “Daibootz,” +a Great Bhudda. We were four sailors, with eight from the garrison, the +distance about 15 miles. Ponies were kindly lent to most of us, Mr. W. +Davison, P. and O. Agent, mounting me. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +We got away at 7.30. Most of the journey was performed Indian file, one +of the officers of 9th, well acquainted with the roads, leading the +way; but what made the single file more necessary was the viciousness +of the Japanese ponies, who obstinately refused every attempt on our +part to get them to associate with one another; a stamp, a scream, and +a kick follow in quick succession, if you are for a moment thrown off +your guard by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which for constant +variety I never saw equalled. + +About three hours brought us to the once celebrated (in Japanese +annals) city, now village, of Kama Kura, passing through which, and by +the entrances to grounds surrounding sacred temples, we came to the +end of a straight bit of road where a path turns off abruptly to the +right, leading to the famous bronze statue, but here we dismounted to +examine the spot and have again described to us the cruel murder which +took place in 1864 of two fine young fellows of the 20th Regiment, +Major Baldwin and Lieutenant Bird, who were cut down by some fanatical +Yakonie, while returning from a visit to the Great Bhudda. + +The assassins were eventually executed in front of the English camp; +one of them requesting to chaunt a song before being executed, prided +himself on what he had done and would do again if he lived, and +cautioned his countrymen that the foreigner would take the country from +them. Had this fellow died fighting he might have been a patriot; as it +was, he and another committed a most dastardly murder on two unarmed +gentlemen by lying in ambush and striking behind. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXVIII + +DAIBOOTZ + + +[Sidenote: 1867. July 24.] + +We dismounted when near the statue, and, leaving our ponies, entered +a shrubbery by a path which, taking a turn to the left, brought us +suddenly, at the distance of about 100 yards, in front of Daibootz +himself. It is a huge and imposing spectacle, built, not cast, of +sundry pieces of bronze, but so beautifully put together that joints +are imperceptible at first from the outside. It is only on going inside +that you see how it was riveted, in much the same way as we should +(forgive the comparison) a huge boiler. The inside, too, has been +desecrated by the usual number of Saxon names. + +Several of our military friends, who had previously seen this gigantic +statue, advised our not taking our eyes from the ground until close up +to it, but that is a mistake; you are astonished at the size, but it +is only at a distance you see the beautiful proportions of the whole +figure. The rising ground and green foliage at the back add much to +the effect, and the best view is that which the people who erected it +intended you should have, by the turn given to the path when it first +appears in view. + +On our way back we visited the Temple of Hakiman, the largest of the +hundred in the neighbourhood. It is curious and handsome. The site, +too, as in all the temples of both China and Japan, is well chosen +for its picturesque situation, as well as for the view to be obtained +from it. But these temples are the work of men’s hands, and not to be +compared with the beautiful scenery through which we afterwards passed +on our return home, by another route. + +About noon we arrived at the village of Kanasawa, situated on the edge +of a circular and nearly land-locked bay of the same name. At one of +the clean and comfortable tea-houses we found ready a most excellent +luncheon, sent early and provided by the messman of the 9th, to which +ample justice was done by twelve hungry men: a siesta afterwards and a +ride home in the cool of the evening. + +A few short years have wrought a wonderful revolution in the political +state of the Japanese and their feelings towards foreigners. We appear +to be welcomed everywhere by smiles and good temper, especially by the +lower orders. + +The Daimios, who would a few years ago have put their Shogoon to death +for entertaining the idea of permitting foreigners to trade, are now +quarrelling among themselves as to whose port shall be the first opened +to trade. These feudal chiefs are tenacious of their independence, and +no longer live with a portion of their family within the precincts of +the castle and moat at Yedo, but excuse themselves by stating that +troublous times oblige them to keep their retainers with them and ready. + +They seem to be ignorant of the fact that nothing will tend more to +sap and explode the whole feudal system than the introduction of the +foreigner with our free notions, although differing materially from +one another in our ideas of freedom, yet all tending to undermine a +system similar to our ancient feudalism. + +The United States, with their prohibitive restrictions on commerce and +despotic governments, are the loudest in their call for Free Trade, +and were the first to compel the Japanese to open their ports to the +foreigner. France, that “grand nation,” governed by force of arms, +will allow herself to be second to none in free intercourse with the +Japanese. Holland no longer eats dirt to be allowed to monopolise the +whole trade; and, unable to compete with other nations in free notions +of commerce, is fast retiring from the Japanese waters. Imperial Russia +seems afraid of contamination with any traders. England, I believe, +while she feels the hardship of enforcing our trade on these primitive +and would-be exclusive people, is obliged to go with the stream, and +as yet enjoys two-thirds of the whole commerce. Certain ports are +open, and carrying on a thriving trade, and others are to be opened in +January 1868. + +The apple of discord has been thrown among these warlike Daimios, who, +finding that their whole strength united can no longer keep out the +foreigner, are likely to divide and quarrel among themselves. Several +of these princes are far more powerful than the Tycoon himself, but the +Tycoon is nominally the head of the Government, and each quarrel among +the Daimios adds to his strength. The Tycoon is now at Osaka, ready +to put down any single-handed Daimio, some of whom have threatened +hostilities, fancying themselves aggrieved in not having been +sufficiently consulted in the selection of the Treaty Ports: whether +matters are to pass quietly on, time only will determine. + +As yet, beyond the visit I paid to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, +I have seen none of their great men. The French, who, through their +Minister, it is said, have got contracts for building docks and +clothing the army for the Tycoon, have invested large sums of money +in the country, so much so, that in case of civil war their interest +will be to support the Tycoon, and they would persuade him that by a +powerful army alone can he hope to govern and put down the turbulent +chiefs. _Our_ advice is to get up a respectable navy and make timely +concessions. With their splendid harbours, mineral wealth, and vast +resources, the Japanese ought to become a great maritime nation; while, +beyond working artillery for their batteries, their soldiers will only +weaken their resources and cut one another’s throats. What different +views different people take! + +But to return to where the journal places us at sea after leaving +Yokohama. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 22.] + +_Serpent_ led the way into Sendai Bay; she having communicated with +some native fishermen found no safe entrance into the inner bay of +Matsu Sima; so, to obtain protection from an easterly gale, we stood +out again and found our way to the northward of an island, for which, +as yet, we have no name, and stood on until we gradually shoaled our +water to four fathoms, beyond which we did not venture, and came to for +the night, perfectly secure against any wind. + +[Sidenote: July 23.] + +Weighed at 8.30 and followed the _Serpent_ round Sendai Bay, when I +signalled her to pass through an inviting-looking passage formed by +the mainland and Kingkasan or Gold Island. I was so struck with the +beauty of country, the cultivation and apparent civilisation, that we +determined on landing, and came to for the night. On the left the hills +had been cleared and a number of brood mares, with their foals, were +seen in different directions. On the right was a beautifully wooded +island, with herds of deer feeding in the cleared spaces. Guns were +immediately got ready and parties told off for a glorious afternoon’s +sport, and orders sent for the interpreter to get permission from +certain houses we saw peeping through the trees. + +Our messenger was forestalled by the going on board the _Serpent_ of a +priest who informed them that the island was sacred and dedicated to +the Bhuddist God; that the deer were all tame and never killed, and +that not so much as a stone was ever permitted to be removed; in fact, +that any one attempting to commit such a sacrilege would surely die. +He said there was gold among the sand on the east side, but that was +guarded by a great serpent. A party went on shore at the invitation of +the priests, and while they were inspecting the interior of the temple +a fine stag walked in and ate several sheets of white paper from the +hands of the strangers. None of the deer are ever killed, nor is one +allowed to pick up the antlers they shed, which were seen lying about. + +The Commodore and self landed on the opposite shore to inspect the more +wild-looking horses. These we found as tame as the deer. They were but +ponies, but some well-shaped mares among them. In climbing the hills I +put up a hen pheasant, and I daresay there were others. The covert was +good, but we had neither guns nor dogs. + +On returning on board I found the priests, who had ascertained +who I was, waiting to receive me. They appeared poor, civil and +good-tempered, bringing an offering of small fans, descriptions on +paper of their temple and island, also some nasty drink called saki. +They seemed to enjoy some champagne! Should there ever be hostilities +between us I shall know where to find some good fat venison. We weighed +again before midnight and followed the _Serpent_ to the northward. + +[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, July 24.] + +10.30.--Made the entrance to Nanbu Harbour, when _Serpent_ led us +into as beautiful a haven as can well be imagined. Land high, bold, +and wooded on both sides. Entrance about half a mile wide. Water, as +signalled from _Serpent_, gradually decreasing from 50 fathoms, but too +deep for anchoring for full 3 miles, and it was not until we had made a +turn to the westward, and were completely land-locked that we got any +soundings with the hand leads. Scenery such as Rio Harbour would be if +the blue mountains were brought closer. + +We brought up in a snug anchorage in 5 fathoms, close off a +considerable fishing village called Yamaba. Natives appeared nervous +and cautious at first, but gained confidence when they found the +Japanese officers on board the _Serpent_. A seining party landed on a +low sandy island and caught some small but sweet fish; some of them +had the peculiarity of not spawning like most fish, but of producing a +number of little plump fish like themselves, about 2 inches long, that +swam and cut about as if they had never been confined! + +On returning on board I found that the head of the village had sent +his small present on board of stinking salt fish. The gunning party +had shot ducks and seen pheasants, but it was the wrong season: the +natives, of their own accord, never disturbing the game between the +months of March and September. Had we given permission, our decks would +have been crowded with the villagers from morning till night, but we +allowed them on board only occasionally for an hour. + +[Sidenote: Nanbu Harbour, Japan, July 25.] + +Before I was up a present of saki in a neatly japanned little tub, +two parcels of the dried sea-slug or _bêche de mer_, done up in paper +bags on a japanned tray, were brought off by the principal traders of +the place. Mr. Aston came from the _Serpent_ to interpret; they smoked +their pipes. I gave them a couple of small bottles of eau-de-Cologne, +and wrote my name on their fans; they went away delighted. + +Suttie, who had been on shore early, shot a fine swan, and Pusey had +killed an animal the doctor pronounced to be a fennec; it was very +savage, and showed fight with the famous dog Carlo, after having been +badly wounded; it had a small foxy head, a short brush, and hair long, +like some Scotch terriers. He was not sweet! + +Leaving the _Serpent_ to sound round this splendid harbour, +particularly one of refuge should a vessel be caught in those gales so +prevalent on this coast in winter months, at 10 A.M. we cleared from +the numerous native boats and steamed out of the harbour. Weather and +climate much the same as in our own dear isle at this time of year. + +[Sidenote: Hakodadi, July 26.] + +In the Straits of Sangar we met a strong westerly breeze, and that, +with a lee set, obliged us to get steam up in the other two boilers. We +came to in Hakodadi Harbour. Found a whole fleet of Japanese junks with +but few European vessels. There is not much to attract in the town, +shops containing nothing but what was imported. A fishing-party was +immediately formed to start on the morrow for the Lake Cuoma, situated +beyond the hills that rise from the plain. On the north side of the +harbour, at a distance of about 20 miles, a river entering the sea on +the east side was said to be full of salmon and trout. + +The European residents were particularly kind in providing us with +ponies, while Mr. Deas most good-naturedly offered to accompany us. +Half a dozen pack ponies were provided to carry on our commissariat and +a change of clothes; these were to have started some hours in advance, +but the usual mistakes were made of not equally dividing the packages, +and after landing, beer cases had to be opened and repacked, smaller +loads being more conveniently balanced on the packs. + +It was a little after noon that our party of seven, in addition to +servants, got fairly under weigh. We enjoyed our ride along the shores +of the harbour, and then on the plain, which almost imperceptibly +begins to rise towards the mountains, over which our route lay. + +The Commodore and self were properly mounted on the steadiest of the +ponies, although mine, “Punch,” would allow none to pass him. Risk, +with his usual luck, was on a runaway; Atkinson, who had but once +before been in a saddle, was on an amorous pony that endeavoured to +get at every herd of brood mares, of which there were many feeding on +the plain, and at last got into difficulties by meeting two mares and +a foal just as they were crossing the road from their straw-yard. A +scream and a fight; one horse was kicked clean over, while the other +two pawed and bit each other savagely. + +The youngster got out of the fray unhurt; then there was a chevy over +the plain to separate the combatants and catch the runaway! As we +approached the high land we got enveloped in mist and rain, and were +obliged to abandon a short cut Mr. Deas was going to take us and return +to the beaten track. The road was tortuous and slippery; numerous +rivulets crossed by rickety planks, but these extraordinary ponies +scampered along considerably faster than I liked or could help, without +a fall, although with frequent slips of a yard or two. + +[Illustration: + + _From a Sketch by Commodore Jones, 1867._ + +_Crossing a River in Japan._] + +On arriving at the top of a steep ridge, which showed like a gap in +the mountain, the mist held up and gave us a view of the plain we had +traversed, with Hakodadi and the sea in the background, which has not +been inaptly compared to Gibraltar, as seen from Spain. On the other +side we have a view of the lake, with a volcanic mountain in the +distance smoking. + +We had started too late to reach the fishing stream, so pushed on to a +tea-house on the north side of the lake: clean and comfortable; here +we did ample justice to our picnic dinner and enjoyed ourselves, as I +fancy only sailors can; at least we do not get enough of this sort of +life to make us indifferent to its (to me) many charms! + +[Sidenote: July 27.] + +The next morning we started for another of these comfortable and +convenient tea-houses, situated on the shore of Volcano Bay, near the +mouth of the Salmon River, the sportsmen intending to dismount some 4 +miles above and fish their way down. Luckily, the party who led did not +know the intended spot, and continued on until they reached the house +at which we intended to rest. This brought the whole party on, when it +was ascertained that we were two months too early for salmon, and there +was not a trout left above 3 inches long. In the evening our party was +increased by Lieut. Rose and Mr. Read of the _Serpent_. + +The scarcity of fish in no way interfered with our enjoyment. We were +all early in the saddle. Started on our return by 9 A.M., a lovely and +refreshing morning with a 30-mile ride before us, but as we got on to +the plain on the other side the wind got up and the rain came down as +it can in this country. But the comforts of home on board with a warm +bath made the rain only another variety in our fun. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +We found a French man-of-war, _La Place_, from Yokohama, probably +sent to see what we were after. She landed two ugly priests, anxious +to commence their work of mischief. The Russian gunboat _Garnastai_, +commanded by a fine fellow, Count Lütkee, his mother English, also from +Yokohama, on his way north. I had to receive visits from the Governor +and Lieutenant-Governor--two gentleman-like, agreeable fellows. + +Landed with Commodore to visit Mr. Alfred Howard and look at his +curios. A nice collection of bronzes as well as pictures and small +ivories. A small collection of shells! + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +After having received and paid above visits and invited Mr. Mitford of +the Legation to come with us, at 5 P.M. weighed, with the intention of +inspecting the coal-mines, said to be of good quality, at Twanai, and +then rejoining the Minister at Nigata: the necessity of economising +fuel not permitting _Serpent_ and _Basilisk_ accompanying us. + +[Sidenote: Twanai, July 31.] + +As we stood into the bay, at the bottom of which Captain Bullock had +marked as about the spot we should find Twanai, we were puzzled at the +number of villages, but after stopping and firing a gun he observed a +boat coming out from the village we least expected, and Mitford soon +recognised his friend Mr. Gower, the gentleman who had undertaken the +contract from the Tycoon Government to work the coal-mine so many +years. We found no shelter near the village. + +[Sidenote: Yesso Island.] + +Opposite the valley up which the principal mine is situated, the coast +is rocky, but the season being fine we came to in 10 fathoms off the +village of Tomari, where Mr. Gower resided for the present. The town +and harbour of Twanai, to which the coal, when worked, must be sent for +re-shipment, is seven miles further to the eastward: a bar harbour, +but with a snug anchorage, protected by a sand-bank; with six or seven +fathoms inside. + + + + +CHAPTER LXXXIX + +THE CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1867. Flag in _Salamis_, July 31.] + +We had heard much of the bears in this island of Yesso, and Mr. Gower +was pressed for information. There were plenty of them, and two had +been down for several nights running to rob a hut on the beach, only +half a mile distant from the village, of salt fish. + +Lieutenant Pusey, a keen sportsman, having obtained a guide, undertook +to lie in wait for these bears; he found their traces, the marks where +they had removed the thatch to get at the fish, and patiently remained +until daylight, but Bruin did not put in an appearance. Pusey was, +however, sanguine enough to try again the following night, with same +success: the whole country round was either covered by forest or was +one mass of rank vegetation over six feet high, from which it would +have been impossible to have dislodged any game. + +During the two days we allowed ourselves, weather permitting, to +remain, one was to be devoted to a ride to Juranai, where we were to +see the aborigines, the other to visit the coal-mines. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +We landed, a party of six, and proceeded to Gower’s house, where he and +his friends, the Japanese officers, had provided ponies. Another party +had gone to haul the seine off the mouth of a river two miles to the +eastward, up which we had heard of trout and salmon. Our ride, although +hot, was an agreeable one, enlivened by the addition to our party of +Mitford. On arrival we found the Japanese Governor, a man of no great +rank, had kindly provided a feast at his residence. The Japanese are +proverbial for their cleanliness, and floors covered with mats. We +found this second to none in that respect, and we voluntarily, before +entering, kicked off our dirty boots. With the exception of sweetmeats +and cakes, a Japanese feast is a nauseous thing: sea-slugs, stale fish, +uncooked ditto, and scuttle-fish do not suit the English palate. + +We walked afterwards to that part of the village where the Jonos dwell. +They are an extraordinary-looking race; short and square built, but the +great peculiarity is their shock head of hair, which extends to their +face and body. Their houses were cleaner than other savages, but that +is probably owing to the force of example set them by the Japanese. +They live chiefly by hunting the bear, which they are allowed to do +under certain restrictions. One is that the skins are sold to the +Government. Each village has a pet bear which is made much of, but off +which they eventually have a grand feast and consume much saki. + +The only curio obtained was one presented to me by the chief--a slip +of wood, the size of a large paper-cutter, but carved on it were the +figures of a Jono and a bear, while between them was a plate of fish +and a bowl of saki. The use of this instrument was to lift the hair +of the upper lip so as to clear the way for the bowl of saki, which +it was essential should be drank at the feast of the bear. During the +operation of the cutting up and cooking of the pet for the feast, the +old women are allowed to howl and cry. + +[Sidenote: Friday, Aug. 1.] + +I joined the party to see the coal-mine. Suttie and the Commodore +preferred trying their hand at the salmon, which were just arriving on +the coast. + +An agreeable and pretty ride of two miles along a valley down which +a small rivulet runs, and up which the tram or railway is being +constructed, brought us to the coal-mine, into which--more to please +Mr. Gower than myself, as nothing can be more uninteresting--I crept, +half-doubled, through mud and water. After expressing my satisfaction, +and taking a long and patient look at the adjacent hills covered with +timber and brushwood, and rendered still more interesting to Mr. Gower +by the vast seams of coal underneath, the line of which he seemed to +know as exactly as if the mountain was of crystal, we wended our way +back on foot, collecting several specimens of the land helix. + +When we got back, a swell from westward had set the _Salamis_ rolling, +and made us anxious about the party who had crossed the bar to fish +the river. About 7 P.M. they were seen coming off, but not without +having been swamped, with the loss of rods and other gear. A heavy +roller filled the boat. They wisely sat still until the two following +waves had broken over them, and then jumped out and hauled their boat. +They were assisted by the kind natives, who refused any remuneration +for their trouble. We took leave of our kind and obliging friend, Mr. +Gower, who, after having come on board to see me off, hurried on shore +again to send assistance over the hills to the missing fishing party. +We got under way at 7 P.M., and proceeded to the southward under easy +steam. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +Just before sunset we made out the smoke of two steamers, which proved +to be the _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_, preparing to take their departure +from Nigata; but making us out, did not weigh. Captain Bullock having +left with us directions where our boats might safely cross the bar, +they left soon after daylight. + +[Sidenote: Nigata, Japan, Aug. 5.] + +Nigata is a large town, situated on the left bank, about three miles +from the mouth. It belongs to the Tycoon, and but for the insuperable +objection to a bar, and the exposure to all winds from N. to S.W. in +the anchorage outside, it would most likely have been one of the new +Treaty Ports. As it is, it carries on a large trade with junks. + +The Governor had sent off officers with the usual compliments, whom we +met as we proceeded on shore. I had left the ship as early as 8.30, +fearing the Governor might have come off to wait upon me himself, but I +believe he had no intention of doing anything of the sort. The officers +we met turned about and accompanied us, not only to the shore, but +never left us until we were again afloat; they were spies, but under +the happy delusion that we imagined them to be a guard of honour! +However, they did not molest or interfere. + +Our object was to see the town and shops, and they took us to them. +The town is clean, intersected by canals, and the population, although +naturally anxious to see the strangers, did not molest us in any way. +On our way back we were requested to visit a rather imposing temple, +but thinking it was an attempt to get me to call on the Governor, +whose duty it was to wait on me, I passed on. But afterwards, on their +explaining that if I would walk in and partake of refreshment, the +Governor would call on me there, I went back. + +Tables and seats had been prepared for us, and after we had had some +tea and fruit, and had waited about a quarter of an hour, the mob at +the entrance gate was dispersed, and running footmen came in advance, +announcing the Governor’s approach. He arrived, mounted on a remarkably +nice strong pony, but dismounted at the end of the road and approached +on foot. We, directed by Mitford, rose to receive him. The usual +commonplace conversation took place as to weather. How old we were, and +how well we all looked; all of which was taken down in writing, before +we took our departure. I was rather struck with the appearance of the +Governor, apparently superior in intellect to the generality of his +countrymen. Good-looking, and said he was fifty. + +We got under way at 3 P.M., intending, according to agreement with Sir +Harry Parkes, to go to Ongi, a small fishing village near the south end +of the Island of Sado, about thirty miles; but on nearing the land, we +made out our two consorts at anchor off a village, which proved to be +Oda. We came to with them and remained for the night. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +Weighed together at 5 A.M., Sir Harry having made arrangements to meet +the Governor at Ongi, a small bay on the south-west side, and then to +visit the gold and silver mines, some five miles distant, on foot. I +preferred stopping at Ongi, having heard of hares and pheasants in +abundance. + +We came to in a snug little port, which required some caution in +approaching, but was protected by rocks sufficiently numerous and high +to break the force of a heavy sea. The favourable reports of game +produced many sportsmen, but the weather being sultry, vegetation high, +and no dogs, I waited the result. The return was 1 hare, 1 pigeon, 2 +ducks, and 8 pheasants; total, 12. We weighed as soon as they came on +board, and stood out under easy steam. + +[Sidenote: Manao, Aug. 7.] + +8 A.M.--Came to in four fathoms off Manao. Found a steamer with the +Daimio Kaga’s flag flying. Hitherto we had visited only such ports as +belonged to the Tycoon. We were now in that of one of these feudal +princes. Whether this will be the treaty port to be opened on the west +coast, some one besides the Tycoon will have to be consulted. + +About midday _Basilisk_ and _Serpent_ arrived. The authorities on +shore had sent off to the capital notice of the intended visit of our +Minister. Prince Kaga had not hitherto shown any friendly disposition +towards foreigners. There is no doubt but that this, his Port of Manao, +is the best situated and the finest harbour on the west coast. The +other port of Oösima, and next best harbour, about 100 miles to the +southward, is likewise a Daimio’s port, but too near to Osaka. Nigata +would do well if no vessels larger than junks wanted to enter the +river: no safe anchorage outside. The Tycoon has faithfully promised to +open whatever port on the west coast we may decide on. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 9.] + +It was on the morning of the third day, Friday 9th, that a dozen of +the Daimio’s officers arrived, and immediately waited on Sir Harry +Parkes on board the _Basilisk_. The interview was long, but not +satisfactory. They were satisfied with what trade they had, and did not +wish theirs to be made a treaty port. They were very civil and polite. +Their Daimio was ill, and on that account could receive no one: no +encouragement. But I have a great idea that our Minister will carry +his point, although I do not see my way. Nothing would unite these +Damios so soon as an attempt on the part of the Tycoon to coerce one +of them; besides, the Tycoon has had a lesson. Seaton and Mitford were +sent overland to Osaka to wait there our arrival: a perilous journey I +should think. At 5 P.M. we got under way for Nagasti, to be followed by +_Basilisk_. _Serpent_ left to survey the harbour. + +[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Aug. 12.] + +On arrival in Nagasaki Harbour, heard of the cruel murder of two seaman +of the _Icarus_, Lord Charles Scott. The poor fellows had fallen asleep +outside a tea-house, when some passing Yakomins slashed their bodies +with their two-handed swords, almost cutting them in two. My first step +was to communicate the facts to the Hon. Minister in Japan, in the hope +that the crime might be traced to its source. Suspicion fell on some of +Prince Tosa’s retainers. + +[Illustration: _Charlie Scott._] + +Whilst here we visited a Daimio, the Prince of Awa. We were received +in a magnificent feudal castle, with drawbridges, moats, etc. I was +accompanied by two or three members of the Legation, Suttie, Secretary +and Flag-Lieutenant. On first arrival our presents were sent in, and +then we were presented to the Prince. A dinner followed; the Prince +took the head of the table; his guests were arranged according to rank. +Half-way down, the table was depressed some feet below the level of +the upper table, and here his subordinate officers were entertained, +illustrating the “below the salt” of our feudal times. The officer +plied us with warm saki, but its effects showed sooner on our tempters +than on ourselves. + +Dinner was followed by a speech from the Daimio, who welcomed us to his +territory, and, pointing to a recess full of Japanese curios, expressed +a hope we would take with us some specimens of the manufactures of the +country, as indeed we did, none leaving without a present. + +Then followed Japanese theatricals, which of course we could not +follow. On retiring to rest we found that a four-poster bed had been +rigged up for each of us. A huge tub of cold water was provided, and a +pint bottle of champagne was on each dressing-table, the Prince having +evidently been informed that such conditions were essential to the +everyday life of an Englishman. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 1.] + +Weighed and stood to the south-east. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +Came to off entrance to the Peiho. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 26.] + +Stood into river, passed Taku Forts, and after the usual grounding at +the bends and fouling of junks came to for the night. + +[Sidenote: Peking, Sept. 27.] + +Moored off the British Consulate Tientsin. Received with the greatest +kindness by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcock; under their auspices saw +much of Peking, which to the ordinary barbarian is not allowed. + +Our visit was specially marked by a most enjoyable riding excursion +to the Great Wall of China. The party consisted of our Minister, Lady +Alcock and her charming daughter, Miss Lowder, Conolly, one of the +Secretaries of our Legation, Risk, Suttie, and Harry Stephenson. Riding +in easy stages, the native servants were always one stage ahead, so +that on arrival, after a refreshing bath, we found a table arranged +with every possible luxury. Striking almost due north we stopped for +the night at Cha-ho. Thence to the Ming Tombs, approached through an +avenue of animals of colossal proportions, carved in stone--elephants, +camels, and horses; and that they were not without artistic merit is +proved by the fact that some of our horses whinnied and approached +these stone representations in evident recognition. + +[Sidenote: Oct.] + +We slept that night at Nankow. Next morning rode to Kou-li-yeng, our +halting-place for the night. Next day to Miyü-hsien, where we had an +admirable dinner. + +Ku-pee-Kou, by the Great Wall of China, was the turning-point for +home, visiting on the road Chao-tu-Chiang, Loo-shan, Niulang-shein, +Saw-Chia-tieu and Semho, our last halting-place before re-entering the +hospitable legation at Peking. We varied the amusement by an occasional +raid on the wild geese and partridges met with on the road. + +I was much impressed by the evidence of former splendour and +prosperity--temples carved in marble; baths fed by natural hot springs; +all in decay and covered with dust inches thick, the collection of +centuries--so much so, that names inscribed on the dust, with dates +many years previously, were as sharply defined as if written yesterday. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 25.] + +This delightful visit over we returned to Nagasaki, calling _en route_ +at Cheefoo. A short stay in Japan, and we went south again, anchoring +in Hong Kong on November 10, when I shifted the flag to _Princess +Charlotte_. Then to Shanghai, where old memories and old friends +clustered round me: the scene of many a stirring day in the _Dido_. +Again to Japan, and further cruises on that beautiful and interesting +coast. + + + + +CHAPTER XC + +THE OUTLOOK FOR THE NEW YEAR + + +[Sidenote: 1868. Hiogo, Jan. 1.] + +Commencement of another year. My flag at the fore, flying on board +_Rodney_ in Corvé Bay, near Hiogo. _Rodney_ nearly twelve months in +commission, while I have been nine within the limits of the station, +having assumed the Command-in-Chief at Singapore in March 1867. +Thanks to the speed of the _Salamis_ I have been enabled to visit all +the important points of the China and Japan part of this extensive +station, besides paying an agreeable month’s visit to Peking and its +neighbourhood. And I hope before leaving this part of the world to +have a second peep at Nankin: four and twenty years since I was there +in _Dido_. The event for which we have been preparing since my arrival +has been the opening of Osaka, Hiogo, and other ports for commercial +purposes. + +The necessity or advantage of opening these ports seems doubtful, +but they were mentioned in the former treaty, and all the foreign +ministers, however they may disagree on other points, seem united +in the necessity of teaching the Japanese that treaties must be +respected, and not lightly set aside. Owing to the political state +of affairs in Japan, the weakness of the Tycoon power, and strength +of the Independent Feudal Chiefs, as well as the uncertainty of the +strength of two parties styled among themselves the “Admission” and +“Expulsion” parties, it was deemed advisable to appear before Osaka +and Hiogo with an imposing force. Our Minister, Sir Harry Parkes, had +come from Yokohama in the _Adventure_ troopship, Captain Hickley, +with a guard of fifty of the 9th Regiment, besides his twelve mounted +policemen in Lancer costume, and a large staff with the Legation of +Consuls and interpreters in addition to the Attaché. The Americans made +a good display of pennants, but France, afloat, was represented by +one man-of-war, while their Minister, M. Roches, tried to emulate our +Minister by a guard of marines at Osaka. + +The Tycoon was at Miako endeavouring to carry on the government, +opposed by Prince Satsumali Li Tosa and other powerful Daimios who had +collected a sufficient number of retainers to threaten the power of the +Tycoon. What their object is has not been ascertained. Most parties +appear to agree as to the necessity of doing away with one of the two +heads. The Tycoon invites a council of Daimios and expresses himself +willing to be guided by their decision. The majority of Daimios decline +attending this council and shut themselves up in their castles. The +1st of January arrives, and the ports of Osaka and Hiogo are open to +foreign trade. Salutes are fired from the ships-of-war off both ports, +and no demonstration or disturbance takes place. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 6.] + +On the 6th _Basilisk_ sails with mails for Hong Kong; _Salamis_ for +Chusan, to wait me there. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7.] + +On 7th I go over in _Sylvia_ to visit and consult with Minister at +Osaka. Land at foreign settlement, where we find horses to ride (4 +miles) to the Legation. On coming on to the open space that surrounds +the castle, met a number of troops arriving in various and curious +costumes. These proved to be the Tycoon’s guard and retainers, he +having retreated from his castle at Miako; the subsequent explanation +of which was that Satsuma had surrounded the Mikado’s Palace with +his troops, and thereby was in possession of the Mikado’s person: +representing the seat of government. The Tycoon stated he had removed +his troops at the order of the Mikado. Mikado is a child, but Satsuma +had placed his own people as the advisers of the crown, and the Tycoon, +too patriotic to shed blood and plunge his country into civil war, +retired to his castle at Osaka. + +I expect that the Tycoon is not deficient in courage; among the +Japanese I have not seen a man more princely and determined, a +good-looking man, apparently about thirty years of age. He, I think, +is aware of much discontent among Prince Satsuma’s followers; their +swaggering and overbearing manner causes them to be hated by the +inhabitants; they are some 300 miles from home, and when food gets +scarce will have to disperse. The Tycoon will “bide his time,” and +eventually be recalled when they cannot do without him. The foreign +ministers waited on the Tycoon, and received in reply an explanation +worthy of a more civilised nation! + +[Sidenote: Jan. 9.] + +On Thursday 9th we were to return to Hiogo by the _Sylvia_, having +had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch sent to the settlement to take us +over the bar. Owing to a continued fall of rain and difficulty in +getting coolies, it was late in the afternoon before we got away from +the Legation. We, a large party, consisting of Captains Stanhope and +Brooker, Mitford, Attaché, Captain Gibbs, Harry Stephenson, Adolphus +Crosbie, Bradshaw of 9th Regiment, my servant Fuller and others, +descended the river in native boats from a creek at the back of the +Legation. + +On arriving at the settlement we found a fresh breeze from southward +and a ripple on the water, although 2 miles from the mouth, sufficient +to show that the bar would not be quite smooth. In addition to +_Rodney’s_ launch we had the steam cutter of the _Sylvia_, which we +took in tow. By the time we reached the mouth of the river it was too +dark to judge of the state of the bar, although we could plainly see +the white tops of the waves against the darkness beyond. We could also +discern the ships-of-war at anchor outside. + +[Sidenote: Corvé Bay.] + +Having a strong ebb tide, stronger perhaps from the late heavy rains, +we pushed on, and in a few minutes found ourselves plunging into a head +sea, the rollers breaking heavily. We saw at once that retreat was too +late, our only chance being to have steerage way enough to keep the +boat’s head to the sea, which at every plunge broke angrily into her, +threatening to extinguish the fires. Our only propelling power lay in +steam, as, with the engine in the boat, no room is left for the oars to +work, only a portion of the crew being sent on such occasions. + +Besides, we all knew that in case of the boat filling, the weight of +the engine was sufficient to take her down like a stone. We were not +long in casting off the _Sylvia’s_ cutter to take care of herself. +We hoped to find less sea when once across the bar. In that we were +mistaken. In spite of pumps and baling the water was gaining on us, +and as the boat got heavier it appeared as if each plunge must be +the last. We had, too, the mortification to see that the current had +carried us past the _Sylvia_, and we dared not turn the boat’s head +in that direction without certain destruction from the seas that would +inevitably have broken over her broadside. + +The next few were anxious minutes, until we came under the lee of _La +Place_, French frigate, which providentially lay just on our line +ahead. We were drenched, bitter cold, and those who were not sea-sick +very hungry. Nothing could equal the kindness and attentions of Captain +Emot and the officers of _La Place_. To get on board the frigate was +out of the question, although she rigged out her spanker-boom with a +Jacob’s ladder suspended from the end. + +[Sidenote: Hiogo.] + +However, by means of waterproof cases they supplied us with all we +required, even a tin of sardines, which the natives helped to get rid +of, and mulled wine. Between 10 and 11 P.M. a lull took place, and we +succeeded in getting to the _Sylvia_, and in the morning weighed for +Hiogo, having first ascertained that the cutter was safe inside the +river. + +We afterwards heard that within a minute of being cast off she filled +with a second sea, but being fitted with air-tight compartments as +a life-boat, she was sufficiently buoyant to bear the weight of the +engine. By holding up the portion of an awning in the fore part of the +boat they succeeded in getting her head round, and drifted in again +before the wind. + +The following morning Admiral Bell, the American Commander-in-Chief, +attempted to cross the bar in his twelve-oared barge, which capsized, +when himself, Flag-Lieutenant Read, and ten seamen were drowned. We +sailed in _Rodney_ on the 11th; arrived at Yokohama on 13th. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama, Jan. 19.] + +On 19th went in _Firm_ to visit the Naval Yard establishment for +instruction of Japanese under the able management of Commander Tracey, +assisted by Lieutenant A. K. Wilson and a competent staff, of an +engineer, warrant-officer, and seamen gunners. The pupils consisted +of between seventy and eighty Japanese lads, all the sons of officers +and respectable people, each lad wearing that distinguishing mark of +rank, two swords. The College was a long, well-arranged building, +with cabin, and bunks like those on board passenger ships: each +cabin containing two students. Baths, cook-houses, etc., arranged +after their own fashion, but the indoor instruction was carried on +at tables with seats. They had their rigging and engineer lofts, a +section of a frigate’s maindeck with portholes and guns. This was +rendered necessary, as, although the establishment bordered on the sea, +the water was too shoal to admit of any man-of-war approaching near +enough to be available for such purposes. They had, however, a small +brigantine moored close by, and boats to teach them the practical part +of a seaman’s work. + +No nation ever went through such changes, and so great a revolution, +although still incomplete, in so short a time and with so little +bloodshed. But internal dissensions must ensue, and the Saturday +night of our arrival and the greater part of Sunday fires were +blazing in five or six different parts of the city. This proved to +be all property belonging to Prince Satsuma, who was domineering it +with so high a hand over the Tycoon at Miako. A steamer of his that +attempted to go to sea was chased and attacked by three of the Tycoon’s +vessels-of-war. Although there did not appear to be much damage done, +it is the beginning of a Civil War which must decide which is to be the +strongest and ruling power. Much has to be done, and that strongest of +all earthly powers, the majority of the people, has not as yet been +thought of as having anything to do with their differences. It will be +curious to watch the progress of events. + +The most influential and dangerous party now are the ignorant, idle, +lazy, two-sworded followers and retainers of the Daimios and Feudal +chiefs--scoundrels who are alike a curse to their masters as well +as the people. The fires at Yedo were extensive, and so near to the +British Legation that two young students, a Mr. Easlim, and their +guests, two American gentlemen by name of Hunt, thought it advisable to +clear out. Having deposited their goods on board the _Firm_, they came +to the Naval Yard establishment for board and lodging. + +We were disturbed just as we were preparing for dinner by the body of +one of the American gentlemen being borne in on the shoulders of five +men, and badly wounded. He was laid on the floor and search made, but +no wound being discovered, he was given some hot brandy and water, when +it transpired that his revolver had accidentally gone off in the pocket +of his _pants_. He sat up and ate a very good dinner, but blood having +been discovered under his chair, it was thought advisable to make a +further examination on our arrival next day in the _Firm_ at Yokohama. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24.] + +The English mail having arrived at Yokohama on 20th, we sailed the +following day, and arrived off Osaka on the 24th, in time to cross the +bar before dusk, when I proceeded to the Legation, _Rodney_ going on to +Corvé Bay. News had already reached Osaka of the burnings and doings at +Yedo. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +On 26th took leave of Sir Harry Parkes for a while; my intention to +leave Captain Stanhope of _Ocean_ in charge. The Tycoon’s troops, some +2000 strong, marched this morning for Miako. Reports of disaffection +on part of Satsuma’s followers; most likely provisions failing. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +Shifted flag to _Adventure_, and took leave of Japan for a while. +_Rodney_ to follow. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 1.] + +Arrived at Shanghai. Made arrangements with regard to the new Naval +Yard to be established on the right bank of Woosung River. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Shifted flag to _Salamis_. + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Feb. 10.] + +Arrived at Hong Kong, 10.40 A.M. _Rodney_ arrived 2.30 P.M. Shifted +flag to her. Each successive mail from northward brought accounts of +the movements of the Civil War. The troops whom the Tycoon had sent +against the disaffected princes had been met by Satsuma’s followers and +dispersed. The Tycoon, taking fright, had departed for city of Yedo, +leaving his magnificent castle to be burnt. The Foreign Legations had +quitted Osaka the best way they could, and retired upon Hiogo under +the protection of the ships-of-war. The Tycoon’s want of courage and +retreat greatly disgusted Monsieur Roches, the French Minister. The +French having embarked large sums in the construction of docks and +other works, were pecuniarily interested in the stability of the +Tycoon’s Government. M. Roches retired to Yokohama, and would likely +have continued his retreat to Paris, had he not been stopped by the +newly-arrived French Admiral, Monsieur Ohier. + +[Sidenote: Japan. Flag in _Rodney_.] + +Other wavering Princes declared for the Mikado, in whose name Satsuma, +Tosa, Chion, and other Daimios carried on the war against the Tycoon. +Among them the Prince of Bozin came up from the westward; his line +of march lay through Hiogo, and skirted the territory which had been +allotted and already taken possession of by the foreigners. Prince +Bozin’s advanced guard had gone on, and when his main body came up and +were abreast of the Foreign Settlement, the not uncommon order for +all to prostrate themselves was given. Two French seamen who were on +the road attempted to cross the line of troops and were charged with +spears. In the confusion the officer in command of Bozin’s troops +gave the order to fire, an order which was immediately obeyed; but, +as in all probability it was the first time the Japs had ever to fire +in earnest, no great damage was done, but the alarm was sounded: the +Minister’s guard of fifty men belonging to the 9th Regiment turned out, +marines and seamen from our man-of-war (_Ocean_) hurried on shore. + +Just as the disturbance commenced, Sir Harry Parkes, with Captain +Stanhope, was returning from a walk, attended by two dismounted men +of the Body Guard. They made for the Consulate across the open space +which had been cleared for the Foreign Settlement, and afforded capital +pot-shots for the excited Japs, who for a few minutes had it all their +own way; but by the end of that time the 9th were advancing, and in a +few minutes afterwards Parkes was out at the head of his troopers, and +the Japs, in full retreat, throwing away all extra weight, dispersed +towards the hills with the agility of monkeys. Parkes came up with, +and captured, three brass guns. Two French and one American had been +wounded. + +Nothing could have happened worse or more inopportunely for the +disaffected chiefs, whose last wish it was to offend the foreigners, +while we (the foreigners) made a very grave affair of the whole +business, demanding ample apologies from the Mikado himself, and +nothing short of the execution of the officer who had given the order. +All this was conceded, and eventually carried out. + + * * * * * + +Mr. Mitford of the Legation, whose duty it was to attend the ceremony +of Hara-Kari, sent me a description of it, which is inserted later. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Complimented Americans by firing Royal Salute, anniversary of General +Washington’s birth. Flag in _Rodney_. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +_Tamar_ arrived with 10th Regiment for Yokohama. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +French frigate _La Place_ arrived with Admiral Ohier. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +United States S.S. _Hartford_, Commodore Gouldisborough, sailed; +cheered him on quitting the station. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Weighed under plain sail and ran through the Lyemoon Pass. + + + + +CHAPTER XCI + +HARI-KARI + + +[Sidenote: 1868. March.] + +My fair readers, if I have any, are advised to skip the next twenty +pages, which deal with tragedies upon which I reported officially at +the time. + +Mr. Mitford, who was present at the ceremony of Hari-Kari, sent me +the following account. The officer’s name was Taki Zingaburo. The +ceremony took place on March 2, at 10.30 P.M., in the Temple of +Siefukigi, the headquarters of Satsuma’s troops. The courtyard was +filled with soldiers, and lighted by fires and lanterns. The witnesses +were conducted into a room in the temple, where Ito Shunski (formerly +interpreter on board the _Rodney_), the provisional Governor of +Hiogo, came soon after, and, having taken down their names, told them +that himself and another officer, on the part of the Mikado, two of +Satsuma’s officers, two of Choshin’s, and a representative of the +Prince of Bizen, would act as Renshi--sheriffs or witnesses. Seven were +appointed, probably that their numbers might agree with those of the +foreigners. + +After a short delay, they were invited to follow the Japanese witnesses +into the principal hall of the temple. On the raised platform, +immediately in front of the high altar, was placed a rug of red felt. +The temple was dimly lighted with tall candles. The Japanese witnesses +took their places on the left, and the foreigners on the right, of the +raised floor. No other persons were present in the hall. + +[Sidenote: April.] + +After an interval of a few minutes, Taki Zingaburo, a stalwart, +noble-looking fellow, walked into the hall, attired in his dress of +ceremony, accompanied by his Kaishaku and three officers in their +jimbasri, or war surcoat. (Kaishaku is one to whom our word executioner +is no equivalent: the office is that of a gentleman, usually filled by +a friend or kinsman or the condemned. In this instance the Kaishaku was +a pupil of Taki Zingaburo, chosen for his skill in swordsmanship.) He +advanced slowly, with the Kaishaku on his left, towards the Japanese +witnesses and bowed before them; then, drawing near to the foreigners, +he saluted, with perhaps rather more show of respect. In each case the +salutation was ceremoniously returned. + +Slowly, and with great dignity, he mounted on the raised floor, +prostrated himself before the high altar, and then seated himself on +the felt carpet with his back to the altar, the Kaishaku crouching on +his left. + +One of the three attendant officers then came forward, bearing a +tray, on which, wrapped in paper, lay the dirk. This he handed with a +bow to the condemned man, who received it, reverently raising it to +his head, and placed it in front of himself. After another profound +obeisance, the condemned man, in a voice of some emotion, and with +just so much hesitation as would be natural to a man about to make a +disagreeable confession, but with no sign of fear, said, “I, and I +alone, unwarrantably gave the order to fire on the foreigners at Corvé +as they tried to escape. For this crime I disembowel myself. And I +beg you who are here present to do me the honour of witnessing the +act.” After delivering this speech, he allowed his upper garments to +slip down to his girdle--carefully, according to custom, tucking his +sleeves under his knees, that he might die as a Samarai should, falling +forward. Deliberately, with a steady hand, he took the dirk that lay +before him. For a few seconds he seemed to collect his thoughts, and +then stabbing himself deeply below the waist on the left side, he drew +the dirk slowly to the right. As the dirk reached the right side, he +gave a slight cut upwards, and then lent forwards, stretching out his +head. + +An expression of pain for the first time crossed his face, and the +Kaishaku, who had been keenly watching every motion, sprang to his +legs, and poising his sword in the air for a second, with one stroke +severed the head from the body, during a dead silence. The Kaishaku +having wiped his sword, bowed solemnly to the witnesses and removed the +dirk as a proof of the death of Taki Zingaburo, aged thirty-two. Ito +Shumski and the other representatives of the Mikado left their places, +and advancing to where the foreigners sat, called on them to witness +that the execution had been faithfully performed. + +The ceremony, to which the place and the hour gave a most solemn +effect, was characterised by that extreme dignity and punctiliousness +which are the distinctive marks of a Japanese gentleman of rank, and it +is not unimportant to note this fact, because it carries with it the +conviction that the dead man was the officer who committed the crime +and not a substitute. I am happy to think that Captain Stanhope did +what he could to save this man’s life, but he was in a minority. + +This execution was soon followed by a frightful tragedy. At Hong Kong, +on March 23, I received a letter from Captain Stanhope of the _Ocean_ +off Osaka, informing me that on the 8th the French corvette _Dupleix_ +had sent her steam launch, accompanied by her whale-boat, to Sakai, a +small town about six miles on the Hiogo side of Osaka, to wait there +for Captain Roy of the _Venus_, and the French Consul. The steam launch +had been lying some time alongside the wharf, and the townspeople had +come down and been very civil to the crew. After a while, at about 5 +P.M., the engineer and coxswain of the launch asked the midshipman’s +permission to go up for a stroll. + +The lieutenant, who was in the whale-boat, had been up for a walk an +hour or two previous without so much as having seen a two-sworded man. +The mid granted permission, but the engineer and gunner had not gone +far before some two-sworded men seized and tried to secure them; from +these they broke away and made for their boat; as they did so they were +fired on by a number of armed men. The coxswain was shot and fell into +the boat; the engineer jumped overboard and got to the off side; two +more cut the bow and stern fasts; the stoker tried to turn the engines +ahead and was immediately pierced by three bullets; the steam-pipe +was likewise shot through; the mid in charge, with six men, jumped +overboard. + +The First Lieutenant in the whale-boat, who was just outside taking +soundings, pulled in and was fired on by some seventy or eighty men. +He had one man shot down, and having no arms, he did not advance +farther; in meantime the steam launch drifted out and was taken hold +of by the whale-boat and towed out of range. Having made sail on the +launch, and leaving the engineer, who was the only person on board +not wounded, to steer, the Lieutenant proceeded to report matters on +board his ship, the _Dupleix_. Out of sixteen men in the launch and +five in the whaleboat only five with them were not hurt. The captain +of the _Dupleix_ sent a petty officer to report matters to Captain +Stanhope; while he proceeded with his remaining boats armed to Sakai to +try if he could find the mid and six men who had jumped overboard, not +being aware of the force the Japanese might have, and not wishing to +compromise the Foreign Ministers residing at Osaka. + +It was not the intention of Captain Du Petit Thours to attack the +place, but he requested Captain Stanhope to acquaint the ministers with +the state of affairs. Captain Stanhope immediately sent Lieutenant +Rougemont in his steam launch with a letter to Sir Harry Parkes, +offering to send boats for their embarkation, and the _Cockchafer_ +gunboat to cover them. The _Rinaldo_ he sent to Hiogo to protect +foreign subjects in case of an outbreak there. + +The Captain of the _Dupleix_ returned from Sakai at about 11 P.M. +without having learnt anything of the missing men, not having been able +to land. He saw many Japanese in the fort, while others were running +down to field-pieces at the landing-stage. + +_Ocean’s_ steam launch returned from Osaka at 6 the following morning, +bringing off Captain Roy of the _Venus_ and Captain Creighton of the +U.S. _Oneida_, also a letter from Sir Harry Parkes, declining, with +his usual coolness, to embark immediately, saying that the Japanese +Minister had been to him to express their deep regret at the outrage, +and declared that the Mikado’s Government would give full satisfaction. + +On the 9th March the French and American Ministers embarked. The French +Minister having demanded that the officer and missing men should be +given up, whether dead or alive, in twenty-four hours, their bodies +were taken alongside the _Adventure_ in a Japanese boat, which was at +once towed to the _Dupleix_. + +On the 10th Sir Harry Parkes embarked on board the _Ocean_, all the +Foreign Ministers being then afloat. + +The funeral of the French midshipman and the ten seamen who were killed +by the Japanese took place at the cemetery at Hiogo: all the usual +honours being paid by the officers and ships-of-war present. + +A newspaper report goes on to state that the French Minister, Captain, +and officers grasped each other’s hands over the graves, and called on +the Almighty to witness the vows they then made not to rest satisfied +until they had avenged the blood of their murdered countrymen. + +The French Minister then took into consideration the ultimate demands +he intended to make, which he would submit to the other Foreign +Ministers before presenting them to the Mikado’s Government. These +demands are not likely to be either mild or pleasant to the young +Mikado’s newly formed Government, and, considering Monsieur Roches’ +interest in the Tycoon, and proportionate aversion to his opponents, +unless mitigated and smoothed down by Sir Harry Parkes, the ultimatum +will, I think, be very embarrassing, and who can see the end of it or +the Civil War either. A raw is established, and will be worked. + +[Sidenote: _Written on board_ Rodney, _March 29, off Breaker Point_, en +route _to Yokohama_.] + +In the meantime, preparations on the part of the Mikado’s Government +still continue for an advance on Yedo, and likewise on the part of +the Tycoon to resist. Then, again, neither Chiefs appear to have much +control over the two-sworded ruffians, their followers. An attack by +both sets united on the foreign settlements at Yokohama would show +little less judgment or recklessness of consequences than the insane +attack on the foreigners at Corvé, or the French boat’s crew at Sakai. + + + + +CHAPTER XCII + +THE CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Yokohama, Apr. 6.] + +_Rattler_, Commander John Swan, arrived, a good fellow, but subject to +fits. Obliged to send him to hospital. Prussian frigate, saluted under +her new flag. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 25.] + +Poor Swan departed this life. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 26.] + +Appointed Harry Stephenson to command _Rattler_ and Keppel Garnier to +be Flag-Lieutenant. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +Proceeded down the bay, _Rattler_ in company. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +Came to in Corvé Bay. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +Weighed; stood over in company. Japan flag in _Rodney_. With _Ocean_ +to Osaka. Flag saluted by the French frigate _Dupleix_. Came to off +the bar. Self and Captains were presented to the Mikado by Sir Harry +Parkes. With Minister, accompanied by staff, we were carried up +through the streets, crowded with Japanese. Sir Harry Parkes presented +credentials, and we were introduced severally to the Mikado. All the +chief nobles were prostrate in his presence, their heads touching the +ground. The Mikado appeared to be a lad of sixteen. The streets were +lined with kneeling Japanese. + +[Sidenote: Osaka, May 23.] + +Japanese princes and great officers visited Rodney and _Ocean_. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Weighed under steam. Came to off Nagasaki. Japan may well be called +the “Gem of the Sea” from her geographical position, her magnificent +harbours and inland sea, the approaches to which might be rendered +impregnable. It is a rich country, with mines of coal and iron, +fisheries, and a vast maritime population. Japan is coveted alike by +Russia, America, and France; and its possession would enable the power +holding to monopolise the whole trade in China. + +The Japanese naturally fear the steady march of Russia towards Japan. +They see that in ten years China has yielded to that country 900 miles +of coast, all tending towards the possession of Japan, which has +harbours open at all seasons of the year, while Russia’s boundary line +on the islands off the coast has brought her to the door of Japan. + +It is apparent that if we maintain a proper position in Japan, in +consideration of our vast Eastern trade, England and other nations, not +wishing to acquire territory, will always be in a position to preserve +the integrity of Japan. + +America has discovered that Yokohama is the most convenient place for +a depot of coal for her 4000-ton Pacific steamers, and the United +States Senior Naval Officer informed me that they intended to establish +store-houses at Nagasaki for their men-of-war. Russia has already a +small dockyard at Nagasaki. + +The French have been, and are still, constructing docks, and have +established, at the Japanese Government’s expense, a small colony at +Yokosha, near Yokohama. + +At present we have as good a footing in Japan as any other nation; our +trade exceeds that of all others, and more British capital has been +invested. I am urging upon the Admiralty the necessity for building a +naval hospital at Yokohama, owing to its salubrious climate, and also +a bungalow for the use of the Naval Commander-in-Chief, as there is +nothing of the kind on the station. + +It was proposed last year that I should visit the Gulf of Tartary +and the Amoor River this summer. While at Peking in September, got +Sir Rutherford Alcock to speak to the Russian Minister, Monsieur A. +Vlangali, as I did myself afterwards, requesting him to mention my +intention to the Governor at Nicolai. + +Our party was to have consisted of George Fitzroy, with his wife +and children, Conolly, from the Peking Legation, and the Commodore. +Fitzroy had remained too long in Shanghai, and was obliged to start +earlier than he intended for a cruise in the P. and O. _Benares_. +They had reached Yokohama the day before I arrived from Hong Kong in +the _Rodney_ (Mrs. Fitzroy was with him, the children remaining at +Shanghai). I persuaded him to embark immediately on board _Rodney_, +where he could have the advantage of the best medical advice. Doctor +Hill took charge of him. We sailed from Yokohama on May 19, and arrived +at Nagasaki, May 28, passing through the inland sea, and unfortunately +landed Fitzroy apparently no better than when he embarked. + +The _Salamis_ arrived on 11th from Cheefoo, bringing Conolly, who had +found his way from Peking. _Basilisk_ (6), Captain Hewitt, arrived on +14th, bringing our mail and the Commodore. Dr. Hill pronounced Fitzroy +in too precarious a state to embark, and kindly volunteered to remain +behind. + +[Illustration: _Map--Northern China, with Coast of Siberia._] + +We had two other passengers, who promised to be of much use to us in +Russian waters. One was a Mr. Esche, the tenant of a large extent +of the coal district in the Island of Saghalien, himself a German, +but speaking the Russian language fluently; the other, Mr. Adams, the +contractor, who had before been attending a Russian squadron in these +seas in that capacity, a kind-hearted jolly personage, known in the +gunroom by the name of “Beef and Vegetables.” + +From Sir Rutherford Alcock I received a letter addressed to himself +from the Russian Minister, Mr. Vlangali, stating that he had written +to Admiral Jean Furnhjelm, Governor of the Province and Coast, on the +subject of my intended visit, that although he had not yet received an +answer, he was sure that orders would everywhere be given, “pour faire +à votre Amiral tous les soins qui lui sont dûs.” + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +Leaving the _Rodney_ at Nagasaki, I took a week’s cruise in the +_Sylvia_, surveying vessel, Commander Brooker, during which we passed +through Hirado or Spex Strait, Commander Brooker having just completed +a survey of it. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +Soon after daylight we weighed in _Rodney_ and steamed out of Nagasaki +Harbour, steering for the beautiful passage through Hirado Strait, +which, since Brooker’s excellent survey, I considered perfectly safe +with so good a Staff-Commander as we had in Harris. Successfully +performed this feat. _Rodney_ must have been by far the largest ship +that ever went through. We then shaped a course to the westward of Iki, +through the East Korea Strait, and to the northward along the Korean +coast. + +[Sidenote: Novogorod Harbour, June 20.] + +Came to in Novogorod Harbour. In spite of the survey of Posietta Bay, +the entrance to the harbour is difficult to find on a first visit; it +is narrow, but safe. The settlement, consisting of half-a-dozen huts, +did not look inviting, but the scenery round was fine: hills covered +with fresh green pasturage and brushwood, while well-sheltered harbours +within extensive bays were seen in every direction. I was waited on by +Major Pfingsten, the officer in temporary charge. He had with him a +garrison of fifty men, while about nine miles inland they had a large +encampment. The Governor of Eastern Siberia, General Korsakof, and the +Lieutenant-Governor, Rear-Admiral Furnhjelm, were at a place some miles +distant, to whom Major Pfingsten telegraphed our arrival. + +Close to the settlement was a coal mine, which they were slowly working +with soldiers and such tools as they had, assisted just at this time +by a dozen Manchurian Chinese prisoners, taken in a border warfare, in +which the Governor, with his Lieutenant and a thousand men, was then +engaged. + +When at Cheefoo in October I heard of an island in about latitude 42° +40´ off the coast and claimed by the Russians, on which a party of +about three hundred Chinese were working for gold, which was reported +to be plentiful; and that the Russians had sent a gunboat to drive the +Chinese away, who, being well armed, had beaten the Russians off: all +this, we heard from Major Pfingsten, it proved to be true, he had only +lately returned from an expedition to the island of Mayatchni (called +in our charts “Termination”). + +Having no steamer available, he had started in a sailing vessel with +600 soldiers, including artillery, but as he was six days going the +ninety miles, the Chinese received timely notice and had wisely +decamped. When the major arrived he found three men only on the island: +these he shot to prove who were the rightful owners of the soil, and +then returned. The Chinamen, who appear to have come from Manchuria, +succeeded in stirring up their countrymen and brought on this petty +border warfare on which the Governor and his lieutenant were engaged, +and which will, in all probability, end in further aggression and +annexation on the part of the Russians. + +Whether His Excellency did not approve of our visiting his territory +when he was engaged in so inglorious a warfare, I cannot tell, but the +return telegraph arrived without a civil word of welcome, and with +directions to the Major not to supply us with coal. The Major rather +softened this by stating that they expected the Governors in their +respective vessels, both of which would require coal; and certainly the +small supply of about twenty tons we saw ready on the beach would not +have helped us much. + +During our stay fishing and shooting parties went away, but we were +too early in the season. The ducks were on their eggs, and the salmon, +so plentiful later, had not arrived. Ducks, geese, curlew, pigeon, and +widgeon were brought on board in small quantities; two or three shots +had been fired at deer and the footprints of bear had been seen; in +fact, a guide who had conducted a party to the ground most frequented +by wild duck had killed three bears the day before our arrival. + +Tigers are numerous, but only visit the coast in the winter, during +which time their hair is long and their skins handsome. There were in +the camp bear and otter skins for sale, as well as a few sables, for +which as much as nine dollars a piece was asked, the market value being +about a tael or three shillings. + +[Sidenote: Novogorod, June.] + +One day, mounted by the Major on capital ponies, Conolly, Garnier, +Risk, and self rode to the camp, about nine miles distant by land, +although two miles by water. From the _Rodney_ you might land within +half a mile. The ponies, with plain snaffle bits, had excellent mouths. +At the camp, which was situated on a healthy-looking elevated plain on +the bank of a small river, we found the same sombre-looking mechanical +soldiers that we saw in the Crimea: smoke and drink apparently their +only object, no games or amusement of any sort going on. + +The country appeared to be well supplied with cattle, fat and in good +condition, but nowhere did we see sheep. During our ride we had to +cross and re-cross a river by ferry. + +The Manchurian prisoners were unhappy-looking fellows. I saw them +one day after returning from working at the coal-mines locked up in +a wretched hut. One of the guard threw a few biscuits on the ground, +which the last two men picked up, probably their only meal. The Major +told Conolly that he thought his prisoners were belonging to a band of +rebels that had long infested the north of China. He described the men +that attacked the Russian gunboat party on the island of Mayatchni as +being well organized and drilled, and he believed they had Europeans +amongst them. Two of the prisoners had been liberated to treat for a +ransom. Major Pfingsten had not made up his mind whether to shoot the +prisoners; probably when too weak to work any longer at the coal-mine +he will do so. There were two long sheds full of grain, brought all the +way from Cronstadt. + +The soil appears in every way adapted for either cultivation or +pasture, but beyond the herds of bullocks no attempt was made to cause +it to support the human beings located. The few women there were at +the settlement and in the camp were of a low sort--convicts. Every +encouragement was given to any soldier who would take one to wife +and settle in the country, land being given gratis, but no advantage +appeared to be taken of this. We were recommended not to send our +clothes on shore to be washed, as they would probably be stolen. + +The Major was married, his wife being the only person worthy the +appellation of lady; an agreeable person, with good eyes and teeth; she +came on board to breakfast and enjoyed our band. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +At 9.45 P.M. steamer’s lights were observed outside, and shortly +afterwards our Staff-Commander piloted the _Salamis_ in, bringing our +mail from Shanghai. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +At half-past ten weighed under steam, in company with _Salamis_. She +having some defect in her machinery, was directed to Vladivostock, +which Captain Courtenay in his excellent report describes as somewhat +more cheery and civilized than Novogorod. Although _Salamis’s_ defects +were nothing but what she could put to rights with her own engineers, +she was to rejoin us in Castrie’s Bay. Afternoon, all being well, clear +of the bay, got screw up, having only just coal enough to keep us in +distilled water. Stood to the eastward, and when well off shore, shaped +a course up the Gulf of Tartary. + +[Sidenote: Saghalien. Usu Bay. July 4.] + +Made Cape Lamanon on the coast of Saghalien. At 7, came to in 7 fathoms +in Usu Bay. Here we found a straggling village of Ainos, all fishermen. +A small stream ran into the sea, off the mouth of which their nets were +arranged, forming three sides of a square, the fourth open on the land +side. The outside was about a cable’s length from the shore, the two +sides extending the whole length, close to the outside net. But on the +inside they had another net which appeared to lie on the bottom; this +they drew up every now and then, generally bringing up from thirty to +fifty salmon. A few buttons or a bit of silver would buy as many as we +liked to take. + +We found a Japanese trading junk from Hakodadi, bringing salt and +rice in exchange for dried fish and seaweed. The Russians appeared to +assume authority over the more simple Ainos, and I have no doubt drove +lucrative bargains. The hills and woods, with the green grass, had, +from the ship, an inviting appearance which was dispelled on attempting +to walk, owing to the rank vegetation and myriads of mosquitoes. The +Ainos themselves were as dirty as need be. In a cage was the usual +bear, petted and fattened to be killed and eaten at the annual festival +amidst lamentations and rejoicings, when all get drunk who can. They +had a few skins for sale, and among them Dr. Fegan, with the assistance +of Adams, succeeded in getting me three tolerably good sables. + +A little to the northward of where we anchored there was a larger +river, apparently full of salmon; although they would not take the +flies offered them, no end of smaller salmon and trout of about a +quarter of a pound were landed as fast as the lines could be applied. +After I had returned on board in the afternoon, I observed from the +stern walk an unusual commotion among the native fishing-boats that had +spread their nets off the mouth of the stream; one of our boats on its +way to the ship with the wardroom officers, coming off to dinner, had +been attracted to the spot. There was cheering and shots were fired. +One of the cutters was ready manned, alongside. Calling the Commodore, +we jumped into her, followed by Garnier, who took the precaution to +bring a couple of rifle carbines--always ready with ammunition in +the fore cabin. It was a curious and exciting scene. A whale had got +entangled in the fishermen’s net and was floundering about in its +endeavours to escape. Our boats with those of the natives formed three +sides of a square just outside the edge of the net, that side next the +shore it being unnecessary to guard. Every minute or so the monster +raised his huge head to blow--I expect as much to look about him--and +then exposed his body as he dived. On each occasion he was assailed by +shots, spears, and lances. Although I had seen thousands of whales, I +never before had been within boat-hook’s length of a live one. Each +time his head appeared the Commodore and I sent a rifle bullet into it. + +While the natives plunged lances, the beast spouted blood and water; +twice he tried to hoist the cutter, but with the crew we were too +heavy for him, as he only tilted us on one side; this work had lasted +nearly half an hour, and we thought his strength exhausted, when the +infuriated animal, probably pierced deeper by one of the lances, made +a final effort. Lashing his tail, he dashed through the net, lifted +one of the lighter native boats, out of which the crew had previously +escaped, into the air, and made for the deep, leaving a wake of blood. + +It is to be hoped that the poor natives whose net he destroyed will +be rewarded in a day or two by finding his body. I was struck by the +number of dogs there were on shore, all apparently in good condition. +They were sledge dogs, and in the morning two teams of them were +scampering along the beach towing boats; there was no one on shore to +guide them, and they appeared to enjoy the fun. + +[Sidenote: July 6.] + +Weighed at 10.30 A.M. under plain sail. Observing on the chart there +were two lagoons near the coast, likely for wild fowl, visited them. On +standing in shore, we suddenly took the bottom; last cast in the chains +was 12 fathoms. Had to lay out stream and heave off; water smooth, +weather fine, but bottom foul. It was 8 P.M. before we took up our +berth in 7 fathoms, about two miles from the shore. + +[Sidenote: July 7.] + +The spot we selected for our picnic was on a bank about half cable +wide that separated the northern lagoon from the sea. There was the +usual bar; the sea being smooth, one of our boats passed up. We saw +no natives, but near where we landed was a hut, the residence of +fishermen during the last season. By the number of heads hung up to +dry (as winter food for the sleigh dogs), salmon must have been large +and plentiful. Eight and a half couple of wild ducks were bagged by +the parties “gunning.” The lagoons appeared to be bordered by long +grass and sedges and surrounded by hills covered with firs; these woods +were difficult to get through, not so much from underwood as from the +enormous quantity of decayed and fallen timber, which was covered with +moss or hid by ferns, and treacherous to tread on. Beyond the hut +mentioned, I can imagine no ground better adapted for the breeding of +wild-fowl. None of the pine trees appeared to grow to any size. In +working his way through the wood Heneage disturbed a covey of birds, +quite young, about a dozen of them; we shot one, a pheasant. + +[Sidenote: Najassi, July 8.] + +9.15 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Our next place was to be Najassi, +some fourteen miles farther to the northward, where Mr. Esche had a +small settlement and a grant of an extensive coal district; We came to +in the afternoon off his house, determined to coal during continuance +of fine weather. We found Mr. Esche’s hut on the right bank of a small +stream, the inhabitants of the settlement consisting of one Russian +and a boy; they appeared happy and contented, netting as much salmon +as they required for use, drying and salting others for winter food. +They were occasionally visited by bears. Although provided with a +double-barrelled rifle, Esche never liked to fire for fear of provoking +an attack. + +[Sidenote: Najassi.] + +However, he showed me, in case of Bruin’s coming to close quarters, a +formidable-looking spear, which was kept inside the house. There had +been some Chinese coolies and boat-builders, but they preferred the +society of Nicholai. + +Green hills rose everywhere from the beach, intersected at two or three +hundred yards by ravines and rivulets, while patches of coal were +seen cropping out in all directions, at the foot, at the sides and +tops, every convenient height for mining. The great and only drawback +to this valuable property was the want of a harbour or shelter for +coal-lighters. About four miles to the southward of where Mr. Esche +had built his hut is a small river, inside which there is a good boat +harbour; but, like all the other streams, there is a bar on which the +surf must always break, except in the finest weather. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +Coaling was performed by our own people filling bags and then loading +alternately our pinnace and a boat belonging to the settlement, which +was towed backwards and forwards by the steam launch; by these means we +managed to get about forty tons per day. While the coaling was going +on, our usual sporting parties were formed. There was but little for +the guns, but the salmon were in and swarming up both the streams and +river to the southward. Although small salmon and trout of about six +inches long were caught by hundreds with every sort of bait, no salmon +of any size would look at a fly, so we were obliged to resort to other +means. The stream at the settlement was ascended many miles into the +interior between the mountains, the water tumbling into deep pools at +ten or twelve feet distances--these were black at the bottom with large +fish. To get at them a net was placed across the stream below; we, with +spears and grains, standing on boulders or seated across a fallen tree, +had great excitement and fun, as the salmon, started from the pool by +means of long poles, made across the shallows for the nearest hole. + +A score of fine fish, from eight to fourteen pounds, were taken this +way in one day; but none, except those that had been wounded, could be +driven into the net. Another party remained at a pool, some two miles +up the stream, all night, and had great sport in spearing salmon by +torchlight. + +[Sidenote: Najassi, July 11.] + +The ascent up the stream was difficult and tedious; the banks, from +wood and vegetation, except for a yard or two here and there, were +impassable, independently of the most formidable mosquitoes, while the +stream was rapid and the large water-washed stones smooth and slippery. +Nevertheless, substantial meals and everything requisite to support +the inward man were conveyed up. The larger river to the southward was +where there were most fish: these likewise took no notice of the fly, +but the roe from the female salmon was immediately taken by a large +fish, who leapt some feet out of the water on first taste of the hook, +and then making a bolt down stream, round a boulder, disappeared with +some fathoms of line. + +On a flat piece of ground between the sea and the left bank of the +river (here deep and some sixty yards wide), there is an Aino village +of fishermen, the chief more respectable-looking than the generality of +his countrymen, but with the left side of his face bandaged up, having +suffered from the claw of a bear. Three or four of them would go in a +rickety boat, and with a small net draw one of the many pools, bringing +out at each draught some forty or fifty fine salmon; these fellows were +at first liberal enough with their fish, allowing you to take what you +wanted for a small coin, a little cloth or rum, but afterwards, when +they had got all they wanted, had the impudence to demand a dollar for +one fish, so that it became high time that we should help ourselves. + +The ship’s seine was brought and cast outside the mouth of the river, +when, in a few hauls, some five hundred salmon were taken--more than +enough for the ship’s company and some to salt besides. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +We weighed and shifted under sail to a bay called Pilyawo. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +Being the Sabbath we remained quiet, with the exception of sending a +boat to communicate with a German vessel that took Mr. Esche on to +Castries Bay. + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +Joined by _Rattler_, and the following day we sailed in company. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Came to in Tonquiera Bay, _Rattler_ going to Duè to fill up coal. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +Weighed at daylight and stood to Castries Bay, where we came to in the +evening, finding _Salamis_. Heard by her of the sad death at Nagasaki +of poor George Fitzroy. I cannot say that it was quite unexpected, +almost every one but his charming wife felt he could not recover. On +our departure for the Russian coast I had left our clever surgeon Hill +to look after him. In the Crimea I attended the deathbed of the elder +brother, Augustus. Just as I arrived at Sierra Leone in February 1861, +Arthur Fitzroy, in command of the _Falcon_, died of fever. As children +at the Cape we had all four played together. + +_Rattler_ rejoining in the night, shifted flag to _Salamis_. It was +a gratification to see young Harry Stephenson in all the pride of a +“first command.” On Sunday I dined on board his ship, and slept on +board the _Salamis_, preparatory to a start for Nicholai, pilots having +been most willingly provided by the officials. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, July 27.] + +Little to remark going up. Channel muddy and intricate, with the +distant shore of Saghalien scarcely visible to the eastward. There were +buoys at some of the angles, and beacons on the land to the westward, +to place which the pine-trees had been cleared away. Our leadsmen +frequently had “1/4 less 2,” but we never stopped. + +Snow-white fish, not porpoises--they said, were tumbling about: round +snouts, blow-hole on back of head, 7 or 8 feet long, not fit for food. +As we neared the entrance, occasional fishing villages were seen, with +no end of salmon drying, dogs and dirt to any amount. + + + + +CHAPTER XCIII + +FLAG IN _SALAMIS_ + + +[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Salamis_, July 27. Nicholai.] + +6 P.M.--Arrived off Nicholai, 120 miles from Castries Bay; current +strong against us. On anchoring, was waited on by officers from the +two vessels-of-war, offering services; also an officer, in full dress, +from the Commandant, wishing to know at what time I should land. Having +arranged for 11 A.M. on the morrow, was received on landing by the +Commandant, Captain Fukevitche, of the Navy; numerous decorations. We +landed, a large party; besides self and staff, Commodore, Conolly and +Stephenson. Proceeded in the first place to call on Madame Furnhjelm, +wife of the Governor, who was also an admiral; daily expected from the +southward. Nothing could be kinder or more cordial than my reception. + +[Sidenote: Nicholai, July 28.] + +A small detached house, evidently the Governor’s office, was placed +at my disposal, everything convenient, clean and comfortable for “one +party”--a guard and orderlies outside, a note from Madame stating that +I should be daily expected at dinner, breakfast and luncheon being sent +to my room. The Commandant then showed all the public establishments, +hospital, dockyards, etc., which were all very well and wonderful for +so distant a settlement. + +But nothing bores me so much as this official sight-seeing, so took +advantage of the first opportunity to excuse myself, as I had friends +on board _Salamis_ to luncheon, and then returned to my allotted +quarters, where my things had been conveyed. While putting on my +“citizen’s dress,” a luxury in which no Russian officer ever indulges, +a rather good-looking but powerful Russian girl walked in, and placed a +salmon, fresh butter, caviare, cheese, sherry and port on the table. + +The Commodore, Garnier, and Dob Crosbie rather liking the appearance of +things, we changed our minds about luncheon on board. Afterwards took a +stroll with Conolly. Plan of future city well laid out. Streets wide, +although stumps of forest trees still retain their places. Population +said to be five thousand, of which three thousand are military. The +club was kindly placed at the disposal of our officers, but most of the +Russians being here on punishment, much was not expected of them, and +collision rather avoided. + +The rooms offered were unfurnished, but speedily filled with pillows, +blankets, saddles, carpet-bags, etc. A little later, party of a dozen +were mounted on hired ponies galloping into the country, headed by +good-natured lieutenant Peakroff of the Russian Navy. + +There are several stores kept by Germans and Americans, full of +“notions,” in which furs and skins may be picked up, but no criterion +of the proper price of things could be formed from what was asked of +us, supposed, “rich English.” Small parties of unclean natives, with +hair uncombed, wearing their shirts outside, fastened at the waist, +and sealskin boots, prowled about the streets jungle fashion. They +generally have sables concealed on their persons for barter, which +does not diminish the offensive smell of the uncured skins. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.] + +Their mode of dealing is curious. A party of five or six walk into a +room without uttering a word or appearing to take notice of anything. +They squat down in an extended ring according to the size of the room, +and commence smoking. After a lapse of some minutes one of them draws +a sable from under his clothes with the fur inside, and chucks it +into the middle of the circle. The owner of the house, who has been +attending to other things with a studied indifference has (by accident +of course!) to pass through the room, takes up the skin, examines the +fur inside, and makes an offer, generally of cloth or tobacco. If it +comes up to their idea they take it and walk off. If not the skin is +returned to its savoury berth. They separate without comment. + +When back to my quarters there was another note from Madame Furnhjelm, +inviting Conolly and Pusey to dine there every evening during our stay. + +Conolly went to answer in person, proposing that during the absence +of the Admiral, her husband, we might be allowed to avail ourselves +of the use of the club, dine at the _table d’hôte_, and wait on her +in the evening. Such an arrangement this kind lady would not hear of. +She is a fine handsome woman, of English parents, full of anecdote and +information, with a family of three or four: a wonderful performer on +the piano. Her husband had been Governor of Russian America, since sold +to the United States. The tea she gave us was excellent, and, as I had +often heard of Russian tea, superior to anything we got in China. + +The Governor of Eastern Siberia is General Korsakof, a young man who +commanded at Petropauloviski at the time of our absurd expedition in +1855. He rode night and day to St. Petersburg, which he reached in +an extraordinary short time, with the account of our defeat. He went +into the presence of Nicholas I. a captain, and left it a general. I +regret we are not to see him here, he having returned inland from Port +Vladivostock. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +While dressing, my servant informed me that a fine ham and two eggs had +been sent for my breakfast. The ham was of the wild boar, excellent, +but of immense size. + +Pusey had sent the boats of the _Salamis_ about five miles down to the +mouth of a small river on the north bank with the seines: a good excuse +for a picnic. The Commodore, Conolly, Crosbie, Garnier, and self, were +kindly mounted by the Commandant; we went by a tolerably good road. +They had had two good hauls, taking about three hundred fish before we +got there; after luncheon the net, a small one with a bag, was laid out +a few yards higher up the river, and in less than ten minutes upwards +of a thousand salmon and trout were landed, independently of about +three hundred returned to the river, said to be spawning. They were +distinguished by an extraordinary rounding of the back. + +Our dinners with Madame Furnhjelm were excellent--some strange Russian +dishes, intended for our edification, but everything in English style. +In the evening some ladies dropped in, mostly speaking English, and we +had singing and music. The days were long, and between dinner and tea +Madame took me a drive in her carriage, ponies rough, but strong and +fat. + +[Sidenote: The Amoor, July 30.] + +A small iron steamer about sixty feet long, and drawing only two +feet water, was placed at our disposal for a trip up the Amoor. +Some hopes of wild fowl were held out. We started a large party; two +Russian officers speaking French accompanied us. The vessel was named +the Russian for “Courier,” and attached to the telegraph department, +the line taking the right bank of the river. She was kept with the +apparatus on board ready for repairing accidents to the wire. She could +go 1500 miles up the Amoor, which river was of a red muddy colour, +rendering the contrast great as the white, silvery backs of the fish +showed above as they tumbled over. + +We kept up the right bank, which rose precipitately, except at the +ravines, which occurred every quarter of a mile, where there was a +rivulet, a small Russian hut, a settlement, a place for drying fish or +the cutting up of timber for fire or building purposes. About 12 miles +up we came to a Russian village; a picnic being the principal object, a +shady spot was selected, and fire lighted. + +After the songs were expended, only three sportsmen could be found to +proceed up the river in a canoe in search of wild fowl, while none +could be found to face the wood, so well guarded by mosquitoes. Grouse +were said to abound, but in all probability looking after their young +broods. The remainder of us proceeded in the steamer, another mile up, +to a Gilak village called Kaki. It was the season for drying fish, and +anything more offensive than the smell could not be. + +There were bears in different parts of the village: one, an immensely +powerful brute, confined in a log-hut, from whom it took three men to +draw a stick one of them had thrust through the bars, which Bruin had +seized in his paw. There were two smaller ones in separate cages, and +in one of the houses we saw two young ones, which had been caught as +cubs, and with the natives were quite tame, although fully aware of the +presence of strangers. + +Dogs for winter sleighs were innumerable, all apparently in good +condition, and with few exceptions secured in irons. The inside of +the houses had fires in the centre for cooking, and a raised platform +about five feet wide attached to the wall. The interiors were not +inviting; the drinking and cooking utensils were of the most primitive +description, made out of the bark of the white beech. + +In one hut there was the only pretty native we had seen, a young +creature with an infant, whom she rocked in the most ingenious of +cradles. A Russian officer, struck with the young lady’s charms, +purchased her on the spot, and arranged her transport to his quarters +with as much _sang-froid_ as if he had been ordering a case of +champagne to be sent there. Conolly bought a cradle similar to the one +we had just seen, but not the kid which was lying in it! + +Returned to the Russian village to pick up the sportsmen. Return of +game, nil. It is said this race of Gilaks is fast becoming extinct, +through the ravages of small-pox. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +According to previous arrangement Madame Furnhjelm came to see the +ships, bringing with her the wife of Captain Riskoff of the Russian +Navy, she also speaking English. We steamed up the river; but the +afternoon setting in rainy, after going some 15 miles with little +variety of scene, we anchored and had tiffin and then back, having +recourse to whist, Madame Riskoff playing a remarkably good game. + +Conolly and self had made up our minds, if we could get the use of +a small steamer, to go up the Amoor and Usuri rivers so as to join +the _Rodney_ at Vladivostock by going about 150 miles overland after +leaving the Usuri. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.] + +As the time for the departure of the _Salamis_ to save the mail at +Shanghai was at hand, and the Governor still absent, I wrote a private +note to the Commandant, asking if he could provide me with a steamer; +but in Russia a subordinate dare not take the slightest responsibility; +so the reply, official, and written in the best of English, was vague. +He could let me have a steamer as far as Hovorafka, the junction of the +Usuri, but had no power to send her beyond, and that the post horses +had been removed from Bonsey on account of the border war; this was the +place we should have landed at, to cross over to Vladivostock. However, +a telegram announced the arrival of the Admiral in Castries Bay, so I +deferred the departure of _Salamis_ until noon of the 2nd, while I was +prepared to depart at that hour by either route. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +The Commodore, Conolly, Pusey, and self, dined with Madame Furnhjelm. +Just before the dinner hour the steamer with Governor-Admiral hove in +sight, but this kind lady declined to excuse us; she said two hours +must elapse before the steamer could come up against the stream and +anchor. We, however, withdrew in time not to be present at the first +meeting after three months’ absence. The Admiral could not have been +at home five minutes before he came in full costume to call on me, in +his own house, after which we returned to tea with Madame. Admiral +Furnhjelm is a hale, handsome man of about fifty, rather bald, gray +hair, with very black eyebrows, manner most cordial and kind. I did not +allude to the letter I had written relative to ascending the Usuri, +but His Excellency remarked that he had heard of my visit, I suppose +from his wife, and that there were many difficulties, but that he would +give me an answer before ten o’clock the following morning. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 2.] + +We had made our arrangements for either route, but, I must confess, +with some anxiety as to the result. No more novel or agreeable trip +could be conceived than that we had proposed by river. + +Precisely at the appointed time, the Admiral, with a large map, at +once laid before us what he conceived to be great difficulties. The +insurrection and invasion to the southward by these Chinese rebels +had caused them to withdraw all the horses along the post road for +the use of the troops; that the rebels, although dispersed, were not +subdued, and might be marauding the country, and that beyond the point +called Bonsey, he could not be responsible for our lives. Most of these +difficulties could, he said, in a couple of weeks, be overcome, and an +escort got ready. + +However, kindly placed before us as it was, it was evident we were not +wanted, so we put the best face on our disappointment, thanked him all +the same, but declined attempting the journey. + +A parting breakfast was prepared for us, and our party having +embarked, _Salamis_ weighed, and soon was passing rapidly down the +river, assisted by the current. The battery saluted with fifteen guns, +_Rodney_ having fired a similar number on arrival of the Admiral in +Castries Bay without a return. + +Our pilot was an intelligent young officer who had himself planned and +placed the numerous buoys and landmarks, without which no one, however +experienced, could guide a vessel clear of the shoals. The landmarks +are ingeniously arranged, being triangular whitewashed frames, showing +the rear higher than the other. To place these the dark-looking +fir-trees had been felled in the line, and the landmarks were seldom +visible more than one pair at a time. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 3.] + +We anchored in Castries Bay a little after 1 A.M., and might have done +the distance within the twelve hours had it not been for the dense fogs +so prevalent in these seas, especially on the China side. The pilot, +who had run for a high bluff, had a curious way of ascertaining its +vicinity in a fog, or at night, by blowing the steam whistle; if near +the high land there would be an echo. + +With this assurance he suddenly put his helm hard-a-port and stood +boldly in until within range of the _Rodney’s_ responding guns and the +curious glare of the blue lights which could scarcely penetrate the fog. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_.] + +During the two days here made several attempts to dredge for shells, +but with trifling success. The steam launch being well adapted, +fishing parties away catching large quantities of whiting, which were +excellent. They seized at any bait with which the hook was covered; +some rock cod were caught in same way--in the seine, off the mouths of +three rivers, 435 salmon and trout and 1450 flat fish. Several broods +of young grouse perched in trees were seen by walking parties. During +our picnics, where our dredging parties landed, I had much difficulty +in preventing the men from taking the numerous young birds that were +found in the holes and crevices of rocks, Jack always fancying that +because the small things opened their mouths he could feed and rear +them. + +The greatest number were a species of diver about the size of a +widgeon, with the brightest orange-coloured legs and beak, with +ornamental horns or plumes on each side of the head; the plumage +black--eye, light green with small black spot in centre; narrow red +edge to eyelid. The flight was rapid, like others of the species. We +shot a few as specimens. Among them a bird, with a sharp-pointed bill, +upper one slightly hooked, as if for extracting fish from shells, with +still brighter red legs, same colour inside the mouth, plumage black, +eye black. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +_Rattler_ despatched to coal at Duè and then to stop _Basilisk_ with +our mail at Possiette Bay. + +[Sidenote: Duè, Aug. 5.] + +Sailed soon after daylight for Duè, off which we arrived at 3 P.M. +Observed _Salamis_ steaming to the southward, _Rattler_ at anchor--a +Russian transport apparently in a hurry coaling, the lighters grounding +at low water. It being spring tides, therefore dispatched _Rattler_ +with what she had, and proceeded to coal ourselves, with the two +lighters they had spared the _Rattler_. A convenient wooden pier +enabled our people, with the use of the Russian carts that ran along a +tramway, to coal pretty well. The village looked wretched and dirty. +There were barracks, hospital, and storehouses. + +On an eminence to the northward is a tolerable lighthouse--some small +gardens up the two ravines, down which the village is watered. The +population consisted chiefly of convicts. Coal appeared to crop out in +all directions. + +The Commandant was a sort of Cossack savage of low rank, but, although +generally under the influence of drink, always treated me with military +respect. His garrison consisted of about fifteen persons, distinguished +from the villagers by being allowed, occasionally, to shave. The women +were repulsive-looking, and all wore great boots. The Commandant always +presented me with an official return of the state of his garrison, +which no one could decipher. Drunkenness was the order of the day. A +small log-shed with a hole about eighteen inches square was the only +receptacle for such as could not stand. Into this they were thrust head +foremost by those that could, and from which they came out, I suppose, +when able to do so without help. + +The evening before we sailed some of our officers assembled for a +convivial evening at the Commandant’s. In the middle of a song his wife +withdrew behind a screen that divided the apartment, and a few minutes +afterwards a noise, as from a kid, announced the birth of a child, +which proved to be the son and heir. Instead of retiring and leaving +the lady in her trouble, a toast was drunk and an impromptu song in +honour of the little stranger. I had called on the lady two days before +and observed nothing particular except that she looked like a Cossack +without a beard. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +Having completed coaling (coal six roubles per ton), and settled +accounts, we weighed. Some twelve miles to the southward we had heard +of a place, “Adnginoo,” with a river, and fish and crystals to be +picked up; we came to abreast of it. The river, like all others along +the coast, has a bar entrance--a short distance up it is exceedingly +picturesque. + +Some of our party ascended in the light boats of the Gelyaks. There +were the usual small villages at the mouth, with dried fish, sleigh +dogs, confined bears, smell and dirt. Natives, a quiet inoffensive +race, their only weapon a fish spear. One seining party had several +good hauls, getting, besides salmon, what our fishermen called cucumber +smelts; they certainly smelt of cucumber, and were good eating. Several +fish were also taken. I pinned one down in the river with a boat-hook. +With the dense wood and covert along the coast and mountains the nearly +total absence of any living thing was remarkable. High up the river, a +rather peculiar mussel was found, so thick and firmly implanted that +the bottom of the river had the appearance of pavement. I obtained +specimens. A fresh breeze having sprung up from the westward, we +hurried our sportsmen on board and weighed under sail. There might have +been crystal caves in the neighbourhood, but we found nothing beyond +broken stones with small pieces of crystal attached. With the dredge I +had no success. + + + + +CHAPTER XCIV + +THE CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1868. Flag in _Rodney_, Aug. 14.] + +Came to in Vladivostock Harbour: usual salutes. Etholin, the +Commandant, had promised a deer-shooting day before we left. Lately +the rain had fallen regularly. The season was early, but our time and +provisions were short. At an early hour _Ogle_, with fifty marines, +landed to assist in driving. There was a small peninsula, the neck of +which was not more than one hundred yards across. + +[Sidenote: Vladivostock.] + +The deer were in plenty, but not easily circumvented. Three only were +seen to take to the isthmus; the remainder broke through the line of +beaters, who were armed with pikes only. When our party of twelve +arrived in steam launch, one of the three deer had taken to the water +and escaped. + +A two-mile walk through swampy ground brought us to the isthmus, where +the cordon of marines was drawn. Of our party, Rose volunteered when +half-way through the swamp to go back and send the launch to the next +bay. He met with his reward. + +Of the two deer that had been driven, one only turned up on the return, +and observing the men stationed across the neck of land took to the +water on the opposite side, to which the launch was coming. No time +was lost in hauling the native boat, in tow, over the land into the +sea on the opposite side; the young stag swam well, but a bullet from +Rose’s gun divided the spine; the poor animal was brought in triumph +to the shore. It was a large force to welcome the one trophy, but the +excitement was great. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, Aug. 29.] + +At sunset flag was transferred to _Salamis_, and on 29th we parted +company with _Rodney_, to meet again (D.V.) in four months’ time. +_Basilisk_ had sailed at daylight for Hong Kong with our mails and +herself for return home. + +[Sidenote: Hakodadi, Aug. 31.] + +Started for Hakodadi; arrived on 31st, but finding no coal proceeded +same day. Some little excitement had been caused at Hakodadi by the +arrival of one of the vessels engaged in the Macao coolie or slave +trade. The old story--the coolies found they had been taken in; watched +their opportunity, murdered the crew. They had evidently been to the +coast of Siberia, and afterwards drifted into Volcano Bay, when some +Japs brought them into Hakodadi. + +The first person on board was Mr. Butcher, our contractor, who, finding +a British flag hoisted, claimed her as his property. The American +Consul being next on board discovered _his_ national flag, on which he +hauled down the English and substituted the stars and stripes. However, +the Japs, being assured that they, in the absence of the real owner, +had the best claim, took advantage of the darkness of night to take +an overhand knot in the fly of the stripes and hoisted the Japanese +flag: this was considered by the United States Consul a great insult +to his nation; hence the excitement. A piece of absurdity in which I +did not interfere, except in giving my opinion that the United States +Consul had no more right to hoist his flag than our contractor had the +English! However, I left them to settle it their own way. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama, Sept. 2.] + +At sunset we arrived in Yokohama Bay; found _Ocean_ and _Rattler_. +Civil War progressing; the Mikado’s Government in possession. Our Naval +Instructors of Japanese could not go on with their work, and not caring +to be paid for nothing, tendered their resignations through me to Sir +Harry Parkes. + +This the Japanese gladly accepted, as it enabled them to get rid of +the French Military Instructors, who, through their late minister, had +shown a decided preference to the Tycoon; besides, their demands for +payment were out of proportion to their services. They were angry with +the perfidious English for having set the example of not receiving pay +for that they did not do. From information we had gained during our +northern cruise, it was considered desirable that the Russians should +be looked up, to the northward of Yesso, and as this was an affair in +which the French minister considered they had an equal interest, the +_Rattler_ and _Dupleix_ were told off for that service. + +The mail from England arrived, bringing me the sad news of my dear +friend Rajah Brooke’s death; a final paralytic seizure from which he +never rallied. + +[Sidenote: _Salamis_, Hong Kong, Sept. 24.] + +We started for Osaka, hurried to Nagasaki, communicated with _Rodney_ +at Woosung, went to Shanghai, Amoy, and Hong Kong, arriving there on +October 14. Here was stationed the _Princess Charlotte_, bearing the +broad pennant of Commodore Oliver Jones, an eccentric good fellow, +who managed the dockyard and south part of the station; in the hot +season he generally came on leave and joined the Commander-in-Chief in +the north and cooler parts. The _Princess Charlotte_ was jury-rigged, +the same I had seen launched at Portsmouth when the dock broke in +September 1825. Jones kept the smaller vessels in a constant move, and +I believe outdid his chief in hospitality. He was a good draughtsman as +well, fond of sport; later on he ended his days in the hunting field. + +Heard at Hong Kong that on August 22 and 23 the home of Mr. Taylor and +other members of the China Inland Mission had been attacked, pillaged, +and partially burnt. The residents were pelted with stones, one having +his sight much injured, while the wife of one of the missionaries, +although far advanced in pregnancy, was obliged to jump out of a +window. These missionary ladies do their hair in Chinese style, and +wear the Chinese costume, and look remarkably well in it--from their +fairness and size, being a vast improvement on their models. + +The outrages resulted from placards prepared by the literati of +the district, who endeavoured to excite the rancour of the mob by +proclaiming that the missionaries scooped out the eyes of the dying, +and opened Foundling Hospitals that they might eat children and +prepare medicine from their brains. Previous to the attack, Mr. Taylor +earnestly sought protection from the local Chinese authorities, begging +that the placards might be taken down, but without avail. + +The _Rinaldo_, Commander Robinson, proceeded to Chinkiang and Nankin +on September 3, conveying Mr. Consul Medhurst from Shanghai, whose +representations resulted in a proclamation acknowledging the right +of foreigners to reside in the country, and enjoining the people to +respect them. A promise was also made of reparation to those who were +injured. + +At this stage, Commander Bush of the _Rinaldo_, having an attack of +illness, started off to Shanghai, leaving Mr. Medhurst in a house-boat +to settle the affair. No sooner was the protection or prestige of +the man-of-war removed than the Chinese authorities became insolent, +refusing to grant the Consul the interview he had a right to demand, +and withdrew all their previous concessions. At the same time the +literati published fresh placards, threatening to burn down any +house rented by foreigners, refusing them the right of residence at +Chinkiang. Mr. Medhurst, failing in his negotiation, returned to Hong +Kong to await further instructions from Sir Rutherford Alcock. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 13.] + +To Macao in packet steamer. Joined following day by _Salamis_. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, Affairs in Formosa, Nov. 1.] + +After we were under weigh in Macao roads, a gunboat joined us from +Hong Kong with the northern mail, bringing pressing letters for my +interference in Formosa. Having previously made arrangements for all +contingencies, proceeded on the route I had arranged for visiting the +southern part of the station. I had left the _Rodney_ at Shanghai, with +instructions to Captain Heneage to carry out the views of the Consul, +Mr. (afterwards Sir Walter) Medhurst, and render him every support. +Directions were also given to prepare such a force as would overawe the +troublesome Tontais in Formosa. Captain Heneage proceeded in _Rodney_, +_Rinaldo_, and _Stanley_ in company, to Nankin, where he was reinforced +by Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_ and the _Zebra_, Commander +Trollope. Mr. Medhurst was on board the _Rodney_. + +It became apparent that the Viceroy, Tseng Kuo-fau, rested his faith on +diplomatic fencing. The first step of our diplomacy was to seize the +Chinese screw gunboat _Tien Chi_ as a material guarantee for fulfilment +of the claims of our Consul. One of these was that proclamations +engraved on stone should be erected in the principal places, +acknowledging the full right of Europeans to reside and exercise their +calling. Compensation was demanded for the injuries inflicted on the +persons and property of the missionaries; these and some minor demands +were at once conceded, and the gun-boat was released. + +Subsequently the Consul, accompanied by a strong landing party from the +ships, under the immediate command of Captain Heneage, proceeded to +Yeng Cheow, where they remained until the Viceroy’s concessions were +enforced. + +During the past year British subjects and other foreigners have been +repeatedly maltreated by people connected with the local authorities +at Taiwan and Takan in Formosa. The Tontai attempted to carry out a +monopoly of the camphor trade. Six thousand dollars’ worth of that +drug, owned by Messrs. Ellis and Co., was seized. An Englishman named +Haidore was stabbed. Dr. Maxwell, a missionary, was accused of murder, +and the mode of proving his guilt was somewhat curious. A mob, bearing +on their shoulders a native joss, carried it round the house, and +suddenly stopping, the hand of the image was made to point to a certain +spot, where they commenced digging. + +To the astonishment of the Doctor, a number of human bones were turned +up, which, of course, had been previously placed there. Notice of +this “discovery” was published, stating that the bones were those of +Maxwell’s victims, and his house was burned down. The Consul, Mr. +Gibson, when about to start for Pitows to confront Dr. Maxwell with his +accusers, got information of three ambuscades prepared to intercept him +on the road. + +Other outrages occurred and native Christians met with inhuman +persecution. The Chinese authorities evaded our claims for redress; +at one moment pretending to concede, at the next withdrawing their +promises. The Tontai of Amoy was ordered from Peking, to proceed to +Formosa and settle all existing difficulties; but he coolly informed +Her Majesty’s Consul on his arrival that they appeared to him of so +little importance, he was determined to return to Amoy without any +practical investigation into the real state of affairs. Mr. Gibson saw +that some material guarantee was necessary for the fulfilment of his +claims, and requested Lieutenant Gurdon of the _Algerine_ to occupy +Amping and the Fort of Zelandia, which forts constituted the key to the +capital of Formosa, Tai-wan-foo, from which they are distant some 3000 +yards. + +The Tontai, having in the first instance agreed that Amping should be +held as a guarantee, appears now to have ordered it to be put into a +state of defence. Lieutenant Gurdon observed this and gave notice to +the inhabitants of his intention. He then opened fire at about 2000 +yards from the pivot gun of _Algerine_. Finding, however, that he was +unable to prevent the construction of earthworks--forty-one guns were +already in position--he determined to surprise the camp at night. At +10.30 P.M. Gurdon left the _Algerine_ in his gig, accompanied by the +cutter, containing two officers and twenty-three men. He landed on the +beach in a heavy surf about two miles below the town. The gig, in spite +of precaution, was swamped. + +Having formed on the beach, he threw out skirmishers and advanced +with caution, taking advantage of every inequality of ground. When +within eight hundred yards, he observed Chinese moving about the +fortifications, and the moon shining brightly, he made his men lie +down under the cover of some rising ground until 2 A.M., when he made a +rush, and was in the heart of the town before he was discovered. Gurdon +got hold of a guide and at once proceeded to the Heptar’s Yamun, the +door of which he burst in before he could get at the garrison, which +consisted of about fifty men. They barricaded the door of an inner +apartment, extinguished the lights, and, refusing to surrender, were +fired on, when some eight were killed. + +It was, of course, not the time for Gurdon, with his handful of men, to +show the slightest hesitation. The remainder of the Chinese soldiers +broke down a door in their rear and escaped. It was daylight before +Gurdon had time to take possession of Fort Zelandia and station his +men, when the enemy were observed in force coming up from Tai-wan-foo, +led by a mandarin carrying a yellow flag. They were received with +such a deadly fire from the unerring Snider that in less than five +minutes the mandarin’s men broke and fled, leaving our little force in +possession. The loss of the Chinese during this little engagement was +twenty-one killed and thirty-six wounded, while the mandarin, unable to +face the disgrace, returned to his quarters and committed suicide. + +Gurdon belonged to Norfolk. He sent me some of his captured brass guns. + +The result of this action was the complete submission of the Tontai. +The attempted monopoly of the camphor trade was broken down. The +ringleaders in the outrage against Dr. Maxwell were punished by +decapitation; pecuniary compensation was made to Ellis and Company +for their losses, and a guarantee given for future good behaviour. +However, there was dissatisfaction at Peking. The Prince of Kung +pretended to be much annoyed at the manner in which this affair had +been settled. Gibson got into a row with our Minister for having called +upon Gurdon to proceed to such active measures, and he was in danger +of being superseded. And yet negotiations had been going on for five +months, during which time the Tontais had set their own Government, our +Consuls, and all Treaty rights at defiance. I, too, had been preparing, +at the request of our Minister, a powerful force that would have +captured the Formosan capital, in spite of its garrison of 10,000 men, +when the gallant Gurdon cut the Gordian knot and spoilt my “pidgin.” + + * * * * * + +There came in due time wiggings from the Foreign Office and the +Admiralty, in spite of the success of the operations. Gurdon and +I had the distinction of being traduced in the House of Commons. +Subsequently, on comparing notes with our Ambassador at Peking, who +had also been found fault with, we agreed how utterly ignorant our +authorities at home were of the manners and customs of the Chinese, and +have they not been so even since the time we are discussing? Wars have +already occurred on far less provocation. + + + + +CHAPTER XCV + +THE COMMAND IN CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1868. Nov. 1.] + +At the same time we heard of the fresh complications in China, the mail +brought news of the loss of the _Rattler_ on September 24, in Shakotan +Bay. My grief was great. Poor _Rattler_; unlucky nephew! In the midst +of their trouble the French sloop _Dupleix_, with the ever kind Captain +du Petit Thours, arrived, and took them off to Yokohama. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.] + +[Sidenote: Saigon. Nov. 5.] + +We arrived at Saigon on November 5. There was no difficulty in finding +a pilot off Cape St. James. We proceeded at once up the river to +Saigon. On landing, was received by the French officials with every +demonstration of respect. The Governor’s carriage, drawn by four grays, +and a mounted escort, conveyed me to Government House, where apartments +for self and staff were ready. Marie Gustave Hector Ohier was Governor +and Naval Commander-in-Chief in China and Japan. He had served in the +French Naval Brigade in the Crimea; but we were on different Attacks, +and did not meet. His A.D.C. and Flag-Lieutenant, Comte G. F. Edmond de +Grancy, likewise a good fellow; his mother was English, and he spoke +our language fluently. + +[Sidenote: Saigon.] + +Saigon appears to have been well selected as a dockyard and arsenal; +situated 25 miles up a river navigable for line-of-battle ships, it +might be rendered invulnerable in these days of infernal machines: +a legitimate defence, as it can seldom be used except against an +aggressor. In the arsenal were all the means of building ships-of-war. +Several old line-of-battle lay in the river, besides an immense +troopship, equal to our largest. French rulers are energetic and +active. By means of convict labour, which they obtain from Bourbon, +they carry on roads and raise buildings. + +The site for a magnificent city, with squares and palaces, is marked +out; but the great thing wanted is population, which, in spite of +the assurances of the young Comte de Grancy, beloved by the natives, +is now fast disappearing. In the temporary banquetting room, where I +was entertained, were pictures of the Emperor and Empress, to which +was added that of Isabella of Spain. Saddle horses were placed at our +disposal. Visited a large breeding establishment, chiefly of Australian +mares and Arab horses; but the produce were a weedy-looking lot! There +was a zealous and enterprising naturalist in one Monsieur Pierne, +Directeur du Jardin Botanique, Saigon, who appeared to work unassisted. + +I was told that one road extended some 900 miles in a northerly +direction, which must bring them not far from our Burmese possessions. +We heard from the officers of the gunboats who make excursions up the +river that they frequently get shots at elephants and that tigers +are numerous. The sport may be good, but I should think the climate +was not to be trifled with. Nothing in the shape of curios was to be +obtained, with the exception of small boxes and stands inlaid with +mother-o’-pearl, in the making of which the natives seem to excel. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 7.] + +Sailed in the afternoon, having been escorted back as I had arrived. +When taking leave of Admiral Ohier on shore, I requested him not to +return my visit, as the one I now paid him was in return for that he +paid me at Hong Kong, when he departed without giving me an opportunity +of waiting on him. I was off the following morning for Singapore, where +we arrived on the 10th, staying only to coal before paying a long +promised visit to Siam. + +[Sidenote: Bankok, Nov. 15.] + +We arrived at Bankok on the 15th. The Consul-General, Colonel Knox, +kindly offered me the hospitality of the Consulate. W. H. Read was +already there, having come up at my request to settle some consular +matters which required attention. The young King Khoulalonkorn had but +recently succeeded his father, whose obsequies were proceeding. + +In one of the principal temples, the remains of His Majesty were placed +in a huge silver urn, from which a ribbon passed through the hands +of numerous priests, whose duty it was to pray day and night for the +repose of the King’s soul. The ceremonies continue for a year, after +which all that is left of the departed is consigned to the flames. +Nothing could exceed the kindness of the young King: an intelligent and +good-looking youth. Banquets and entertainments were the order of the +day, and there was much of interest to see in the beautiful temples, +palaces, and buildings, placed in the most picturesque scenery. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 18.] + +On the 18th left for Sarawak, paying a short visit, and arrived at +Singapore on the 27th. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Weighed and steamed to the westward. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +Came to in Penang Roads. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Mail steamer arrived, bringing the wife, Colin and little May, who were +quickly embarked. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Arrived at Singapore, but for the duties of command, with wife and kids +on board, my kind old friends made me feel doubly at home. Alongside +Kampong Bahru I felt the harbour was my own: it was scarcely discovered +when in the _Mæander_. I recommended it to a shifting Board of +Admiralty as the fittest coaling station in the Far East. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 19. Labuan.] + +Arrived at Labuan. Mr. Pope Henessey was the first on board; he had +a grievance. The officer in command of a gunboat had declined to +fire a royal salute when directed by the Governor to do so, on Mr. +Disraeli becoming Prime Minister. Explained that owing to accidents no +man-of-war mounting less than ten guns was allowed to fire a salute. +However, I was told that the zealous Governor had dug up some old +buried guns, and had his salute fired, not quite to regular time. + +Vast improvements had been made since our last visit. Mr. Hugh Low, +the Secretary, had married his daughter to the Governor. Low was a +botanist, and had introduced that delicious fruit, the pumalo. Dr. +Treacher, the late Rajah’s friend, held a government appointment. De +Crespigny had left the navy and become a Resident. We remained till the +23rd. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 26.] + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +Came to in Manila Bay. Courteously received as before in _Dido_, +and again in the _Mæander_. It has altered little in the past +five-and-twenty years, except to become more like a town on the +Riviera than those one finds in the East under our own flag. There are +plate-glass windows in the shops, a handsome boulevard, cafés, and +bands playing. + +[Sidenote: 1869. Jan. 1.] + +We were no sooner clear of Manila Bay than we began to experience what +it was to face the north-east monsoon. All my party were prostrate. +_Salamis_ was so sudden in her movements that cots were given up and +beds spread on the deck. My boy was in a burning fever--caught, we +supposed, at Labuan--patient and good, calling only for drink, but +unable to bear clothing. + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Jan. 3.] + +At 8.30 we came to in Hong Kong. Keppel Garnier started to ask Dr. +Hill to come from the _Melville_, hospital ship. The Governor and Lady +Macdonnell kindly arranged everything for our reception at Government +House, where we went on arrival. Doctors Murray and Dodds were soon in +attendance. After consultations, they tried to persuade us that Colin +would pull through. On service, wives and children ought to remain at +home! + +However, the boy soon mended. + +Nothing could have been more fortunate than the quarters into which +we had been so kindly received. There was scarcely a person in Hong +Kong who did not sympathise with us. Coxswain Webb was better than any +nurse. Our children were much at the Bertrand’s, where their charming +little daughter, Louise, took kindly to them. But all this has no +business in a sailor’s log! + +Time passed pleasantly; with any other than the true Irish hospitality +with which we were entertained I should have fancied we were +over-staying our welcome. The flagship _Rodney_ did not put in an +appearance until the 21st. She had then to make good defects, and leave +was due to the crew. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +We started, children and all, by the 8 A.M. steamer to pay a visit +to my old friend Robertson at his Yamun in Canton. Nothing could be +prettier than the passage through the Cap Sing Moon Pass, and when we +came to the Boca Tigris Forts I had much to relate of bygone days. +There, too, to the northward, was the fort I, with a small squadron, +in 1857, was instructed to capture, which “pidgin” was spoilt by the +Chinese not wanting to fight. I have at Bishopstoke the cap and sword +which the Chinese Governor threw away that he might not be recognized. +After a short stop at Whampoa, we arrived at the Pier of Canton, where +Robertson waited with chairs to receive us. Wenny Coke, who arrived a +few days previously from the north, came with us in the steamer, and +was also put up by Robertson. + +Archdeacon Gray had kindly undertaken to show all there was. But we had +arranged to return in a day or two, and our time would not allow of our +seeing a tithe of what the kind Archdeacon wished. We, however, saw +one or two joss-houses, only curious when the meaning of the various +grotesque figures and inscriptions were explained. The City of the Dead +was the most extraordinary. It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch, +as if it was ever likely to be attacked! It is here that all those who +can afford it deposit their dead until some auspicious day for the +funeral occurs, which may not be for years. Others who, having come +from some distant province to hold office under Government, deposit +their dead relatives in these clean and snug lodgings until they have +made their fortunes, or are turned out, as the case may be. + +The city is composed of one-storied houses, the streets straight and +painfully quiet; some of the houses contained one, but the others +two or three coffins resting on stretchers. There were joss sticks +burning in most, with a change of raiment and other little comforts +the departed might require, and as there were a few priests about, I +daresay the “comforts” were appreciated. + +Having an appointment to meet the Viceroy at the Consul’s Yamun, I +was obliged to leave the sightseers and had not time to partake of +an excellent luncheon; as it was I followed the Viceroy’s train of +followers, and had only donned my uniform in time to enter the room as +the Consul received him with a salute of three guns. + +Our interview was the same as on a previous occasion, only now, as +established old friends, we were much more cordial. The children amused +themselves in the small, walled park attached to the Yamun, but a +change of weather and a cutting N.E. wind coming on, our experienced +friend the Archdeacon cautioned us to be careful. + +Went out again curio-hunting, and on our return found a despatch +from the Commodore detailing an outrage at Swatow, in which some +well-known, ill-disposed villagers had fired into the _Cockchafer’s_ +boats, wounding eleven persons (some badly), and the Commodore, pending +further instructions, was preparing to punish the offenders. + +It was fortunate my being in Canton with the Consul, as it enabled +us at once to communicate with the Viceroy, Swatow being under his +jurisdiction. The boats of the _Cockchafer_, when away exercising +up the River Han, were assailed by stones by the inhabitants of the +semi-piratical village of Ou-teng-foi. + +The Commander landed, intending to remonstrate with the headman of +the village, but as he could get no one to conduct him to his house, +he seized a well-dressed Chinaman who was near, and who had witnessed +the outrage, that he might take him before the Consul at Swatow to be +examined. + +Without further provocation the villagers opened fire on the +_Cockchafer’s_ boats, who, finding themselves opposed to some six +hundred Chinese, made a running fight of it, as they retreated down the +river, killing and wounding several of their assailants, returning with +the gunner and a boatswain’s mate dangerously, and eight others, in a +less degree, wounded. + +I at once placed myself in communication with the Viceroy of the two +Kwang provinces. That part of the department, Quang Tung, lying to +the northward and eastward of Canton had long resisted the Imperial +Power, refusing to pay taxes, while they themselves levied blackmail +on traders passing from Chow-Chow-Fou. An imperial army of from five +to six thousand troops was gradually making its way to Chow-Chow-Fou, +bringing the villages under subjection as it marched. + +The inhabitants of the villages of Tang-Tau and Po-leng had on one +occasion roasted alive the mandarin who had been sent to govern them. +They placed another mandarin between two planks and sawed him in +halves. The Viceroy immediately sent orders for the army to advance, +and appointed two Commissioners, with a force and a couple of gunboats, +to co-operate with our forces towards the punishment of the offending +villages. The Commodore was ordered to take command of the _Rinaldo_, +_Perseus_, _Leven_, _Bouncer_, and _Cockchafer_, together with a party +of seamen and marines from the _Rodney_. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_.] + +These being soon ready, the Commodore proceeded to Swatow, with orders +to make preparations, but wait the arrival of the Commissioners and +Chinese forces. I, intending to follow in the _Salamis_, returned to +Hong Kong, and on the 30th hoisted the flag on board her, and left same +afternoon. Whether the Commodore thought that I should personally +supersede him in the command, I do not know. When I arrived at Swatow +on the 31st, I found he had neglected the latter part of his orders, +and the morning after his arrival, without waiting for the Viceroy’s +Commissioners, proceeded to land his marines and march up the banks to +protect the boats which conveyed the force up the creek that led to the +offending villages. + +At 8 A.M. (28th January) an advance was made on the village of +Tang-Tau, which, together with that of Po-leng, had assisted the +villages of Ou-teng-foi in their attack. These three villages offered +more or less resistance: at each, the inhabitants were first to open +fire, and showed a bold front, but the Sneiders soon doubled up those +who did not take the earliest opportunity of dispersing as our men +advanced. Tang-Tau was burned. Po-leng was spared, as the inhabitants +made little resistance. Ou-teng-foi, which was barricaded, had their +defences destroyed, and principal houses burned. It was difficult to +ascertain the amount of loss of the villagers, as they were smart in +carrying off their killed and wounded, but the Commodore, thinking they +were sufficiently punished, re-embarked and returned to his ships. No +looting of any sort was allowed, although geese and poultry were in +plenty. + +Our casualties were five wounded; the worst being Lieutenant Herbert +Gye, whose face and hands were badly burned by an explosion of +gunpowder lying loose on the floor of a house he was endeavouring to +set fire to. Lieutenant Aitkin was severely bambooed before and behind +by two Chinamen who rushed on him unawares, and Lieutenant Lloyd was +wounded in the foot by falling into a cleverly concealed trap armed +with a spear and intended for greater mischief. + +The next day, 29th, the headmen of the villages sent in their +submission in the following terms, translated from the original:-- + + _Humble Petition_-- + + The Inhabitants of Tang-Tau, Po-leng, and Ou-teng-foi. + + On the 8th day of this month, some children, seeing your great + country’s war-boats passing, were much frightened, and, racing away, + foolishly excited our people to attack them, for which the great army + has entered our villages and punished us. + + We repent our fault fully, and, prostrating ourselves, beg, + undeserved, that mercy may be shown us, and promise that men and + women will, one and all, live peaceably and quietly for coming + generations under your favour. + + Trusting that the great Consul will grant our prayers, etc. + +Of course the Viceroy, to whom I had promised that the force I was +about to send from Hong Kong should wait to co-operate with his and his +Commissioners, was greatly disappointed, and I expect our Minister at +Peking (Sir Rutherford Alcock) will be the same. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 2.] + +10 A.M.--Weighed, and stood out of river Canton. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Arrived at Foochow. Proceeded up river Min, and anchored off Pagoda. + + + + +CHAPTER XCVI + +THE NORTHERN PORTS + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Shanghai, Feb. 21.] + +_Salamis_ arrived at Shanghai; at anchor off naval yard. When on a +visit to Sir Rutherford Alcock at Peking, in September 1867, he, having +been applied to by the merchants at Chin-kiang on the subject of +opening the Poyang Lake to steam navigation, expressed a wish that, if +an opportunity offered, I should visit and report on its capabilities. +The subject of the new treaty and fresh ports to be opened having been +discussed by the Chamber of Commerce here, and affairs either in Japan +or China not requiring my immediate presence, I decided on gratifying +a long-cherished wish of ascending the Yang-tse-kiang as far as +practicable in the _Salamis_. + +Mr. Swinhoe, our late Consul at Taiwan, Formosa, a scholar, linguist, +and naturalist, has been selected by Sir Rutherford to visit and report +on such ports as are most desirable for trade; particularly near that +part of the Great River, the Poyang Lake, and above Hankow, even as far +as the province of Sechuen. In compliance with the Minister’s request, +the _Opossum_ gun-boat waits at Hankow to convey Mr. Swinhoe whither he +will. + +The Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, more particularly interested in the +opening of new treaty ports, has selected Mr. Michi, an enterprising +traveller, and well acquainted with the value of teas and silks, +to proceed, at their request, with Mr. Swinhoe. Another gentleman, +Mr. Francis, accompanies them. The Chamber of Commerce at Shanghai +having also got the firm of Jardine and Company to lend their small +steam-vessel, she will be attached to the _Opossum_, with such +surveying officers as Brooker can dispatch from the _Sylvia_. Although +they will hardly have time to complete a survey of the river above +Hankow, they will be able to verify that of Captain Blakiston. On +Monday, February 8, we left the hospitable roof of Mr. Lavers, of the +firm of Gilman and Co., and started in the _Salamis_. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Salamis_, March.] + +The space between Shanghai and Hankow is now well-beaten ground, owing +to the Company’s steamers, which start both ways every two or three +days according to the freights they ship, carrying a large number of +passengers, the majority of whom are Chinese. The chief interest to +me is that twenty-seven years ago, when in the _Dido_, we formed one +of a large fleet of upwards of seventy men-of-war and transports, all +of which succeeded in getting up without the use of steam as far as +Nankin, which brought about peace and the signing of the treaty which +bore that name. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 9.] + +At sunset on Tuesday the 9th we came to off Chin-kiang, promising to +visit Silver Island on our return. On the following morning we found +that Mr. Allen, the Vice-Consul, and several other gentlemen, among +whom was a son of my old friend Carnie of former days at Singapore, +hearing of my weakness that way, had prepared a shooting excursion to +Deer Island, some six miles up the river. + +As they could easily return with the current, we took the whole party +on board the _Salamis_, and before noon proceeded up the river and +anchored off the island, a long flat of about seven miles by four, and, +except at the time when we arrived, covered with long and strong reeds, +which the natives were cutting for thatch or fuel, making at same time +temporary, but not uncomfortable, huts to live in. There was no lack +of game or sportsmen, and from the quantity of firing the bag ought to +have been a large one: seven deer, and a few varieties of duck, teal, +and quail, was the result. The deer were what are called “hog,” with a +coarse rough hair and a peculiar tusk protruding, boar fashion, from +the jaw. We had an agreeable day and dined together in the wardroom, +the Chin-kiang party not leaving until late. + +[Sidenote: Nankin, Mar. 11.] + +Weighed at daylight, and came to off Nankin, but not in time to +perform an excursion to the Ming Tombs; people wishing to visit these +comfortably should write beforehand and have ponies or chairs ready. We +mounted the city wall on the highest point of the hill to the eastward, +the view from whence gives a good idea of the vast extent of water and +of the desolation inside. Fresh-looking ship guns marked U.S.R.M., +which I read “United States Republic Marine,” were mounted and brought +to bear on the only anchorage fit for ships of any size; they were +about 42-pounders, of a pattern now obsolete, and had evidently been +placed since the visit of the _Rodney_. + +Having been on the top of the great Porcelain Tower when it stood +prominent in its magnificence, I did not care to go now, as travellers +do, to seek for bricks among its ruins. + +I have a printed copy of a letter addressed by the Shanghai General +Chamber of Commerce to W. H. Medhurst, Esq., in reply to an application +from our Minister at Peking, in which they enumerate the different +ports they think desirable should be opened. Among them is Wu-hu. Wu-hu +is situated about two miles above the mouth of a tributary stream, on +the right bank of the Yang-tse, about sixty miles above Nankin. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +We anchored off this for a couple of hours on the afternoon of the +12th, when I proceeded up the creek with Swinhoe, Dob Crosbie, and the +pilot, and landed near the walled town. The whole right bank, and part +of the left, had trading junks thickly stowed side by side with ends +on to the shore, which gave proof of a vast amount of commerce; while, +judging from the buildings in progress, both city and suburbs were +gradually recovering from the effects of the late Civil War. + +It is curious to note that early travellers in China have described +the country as either a “vast plain” or “an enormous fertile valley.” +More variation of surface, perhaps, does not appear in any country, and +where we should be most inclined to look for such features, namely on +its great artery, it is diversified enough to please the most exacting +of tourists. + +Commencing at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang, there is naturally a +considerable extent of flat alluvial land, the delta of the river, +where once, no doubt the ocean held its sway. But soon we come to hills +and high lands, and at Chin-kiang the eye is delighted with the steep +and rugged cliffs. About Nankin the country is prettily broken into +ridges and hills, and before reaching far above this, mountains shut in +the river on either side. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +On the afternoon of the 13th we passed close to Nankin (pronounced and +spelt Bankin by our civil and communicative pilot, with a strong nasal +twang), such as might be found in the United States, and to which I +have ceased to object. He had often passed up here during the wars in +1861, in a vessel that was always ready to supply with “munitions” the +side that could pay best. + +He pointed out the fort close to the river bank on the east side of +the Pagoda, once in possession of the Imperialists, while the rebels +held the city, the nearest wall of which was not a quarter of a mile +distant. There were also the stern posts to which two rebel chiefs +had been chained until released by death. The city subsequently +surrendered, when every living soul was put to death, and for weeks +after, decapitated bodies infested the river for miles. It was on +passing these batteries that Lord Elgin was fired at, on which occasion +young Birch, who had been one of my youngsters in the _Raleigh_, lost +an arm. + +Our pilot not being quite as much at home as those who work the trading +steamers, we always came to in the evening; besides, our hurry was not +such as to prevent one seeing what was to be seen during daylight. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Weighing on 14th, by a little after 11 o’clock we came up with one of +the most picturesque objects on the river, a rock rising abruptly, +called the “Little Orphan”; but the day was dull and a mist hung over +the adjacent country: the right thing would have been to ascend a small +pagoda on the top and enjoy a splendid view. Shortly afterwards we +saw the Orphan Rock in the entrance of the Poyang Lake, standing in +bold relief, the guardian of the passage. On the left of the entrance +is Hu-kau, a temple within a high picturesque wall, where resides a +Chinese Admiral with his war junks. + +The legend of the Orphan Rock, told us by the pilot, is, that in bygone +ages a Chinaman, with his wife and two children, was crossing the +river, when his boat was upset in a storm. The parents at once sank, +but a kind turtle rising to the surface, took the children on his back, +and instead of making for the shore, appears to have swum up stream, +when after a while one of the children slipped off and was drowned, +when there arose the rock now called “The Little Orphan.” The turtle +then made for the Poyang Lake with his second charge, but before he +reached the shoal the other child fell off at the spot where the rock +rose out of the water called “The Great Orphan.” The benevolent turtle +then died too, and his broken heart formed a huge rock not far from the +resting-place of the lost child. + +[Sidenote: Sunday.] + +We anchored off Chin-kiang as the bell was tolling for afternoon +service. Our appearance had caused the clergyman to delay the service +twenty minutes, but as we were not informed, his kind intention was +lost on us. This was one of the open ports selected on the river. Like +most of the towns on the southern bank of the Yang-tse, it had been in +the hands of the rebels, the effects of whose ravages were apparent. It +is a neat little settlement, with European-looking houses, a Bund in +front, and the handsome range of Lien-Shan mountains for a background. +The merchants here had long been aware of the advantages to trade that +would accrue by the opening of a port or ports on the Poyang Lakes, +with permission to ply steamers either as traders or tugs. As yet the +Chinese authorities, blind to their advantage, have been opposed to the +use of steam in the inner waters. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +With the assistance of the _Faust_, a small steamboat of about forty +tons, kindly lent us by Jardine Mathieson’s firm at Shanghai, it was +my intention to have explored this lake, and I determined to wait her +arrival. She was to have followed us in tow of one of the American +steamers that run between Hankow and Shanghai. This proposed expedition +caused no small sensation in the settlement. Those who could not get +stowed away on board the _Salamis_, got ready their house-boats; two +started for the scene of action at once, as they knew their craft were +of too frail a construction to stand a tug of a greater rate than three +knots per hour. + +While detained waiting for the _Faust_, several shooting parties went +forth, but with small results; those who went prepared only for snipe +fell in with duck, and _vice versa_. However, a little earlier in the +season, game of all sorts must be plentiful. Pheasants, ducks, teal, +and the hog deer were to be purchased. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +The steamer from Shanghai arrived on the 17th, but without the +_Faust_, owing to a defect in her machinery. I therefore determined on +proceeding for Hankow without further delay, promising, if possible, to +explore the Poyang on my return, when we shall have the advantage of +several feet rise of water. + +4.15 P.M.--Slipped from buoy to run up as far as we could before dark, +so as to ensure our reaching Hankow on the following day. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +Weighed at five. We soon came to the most beautiful scenery we had yet +met with. High hills rising immediately from the bank, with woods, +a great improvement on the shrubs we had hitherto passed. The Spit +Rock is a peculiar feature in a narrow pass. The high-water line was +distinctly marked on the rocks some twenty feet above where we were. +Among the curious things we met were immense timber rafts, each with +its street of wooden houses. We came to off Hankow. Found _Opossum_ +and a Russian gunboat, an old acquaintance of the Gulf of Tartary. + +The good people of Hankow are noted for their hospitality, and before +leaving Shanghai, quarters were offered us in both the houses of +Jardine and Mathieson, and Gilman and Co. We had agreed with Mr. Lavers +to go to whichever house we should inconvenience the least, and they +were to settle it between them. We were claimed by Mr. and Mrs. Ramsay, +old friends of Mr. Gilman. A good fellow, Mr. Beveridge of Jardine’s +house, expressed great disappointment at our not going to him, but most +kindly took instead the whole of my staff, including Dob. + +[Sidenote: Hankow.] + +Hankow is only separated from Wu-chang and Han-yang by the Han and +Yang-tse rivers. The surrounding country is flat, and as I could not +look with commercial eyes on the adjacent cities, with their numerous +junks that lined the shore, especially at the junction of the Han, +where they seemed to form a deadlock, I am afraid I was a little +disappointed with the celestial emporium. On shore, and along the +walls, the high-water mark was clearly defined; about every three or +four years the country is inundated, without, however, affecting the +health of the place. Our countrywomen, and particularly the children, +looked fresh and blooming. + + + + +CHAPTER XCVII + +MEMORIES OF GORDON + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Hankow, Mar. 19] + +Mr. Caine, the Consul, and son of my old friend of former China days, +having given notice of my intention the day previous, at 10 A.M. we +crossed the river to Wu-chang, that I might pay my respects to the +Viceroy. Besides the Consul and myself our party consisted of Swinhoe, +Mr. Davenport, the consular interpreter, and Keppel Garnier, Flag +Lieutenant. The Viceroy was Li Hung Chang, who had fought for eighteen +years against the Tai-peng rebels and was considered the first general +in the Imperialist Army. + +Gordon had held a command as brigadier-general under him, and Li it was +who so treacherously put to death Lar Wang and nine of the rebel chiefs +at the surrender of Soo-chow, on 7th December 1863, although Gordon +had pledged himself for their safety. The only time that Gordon was +known to carry arms were the two days after the execution of the Wangs, +when, had he fallen in with Li, there would have been two holes in Li’s +yellow waistcoat! + +Besides my curiosity to see this celebrated scoundrel, I wanted the +loan of a most convenient little steamer, the _Hyson_, now lying in the +river, which had performed such wonderful feats in co-operation with +Gordon during the war. + +We landed about a quarter of a mile below a pagoda, just built or +renovated, on the point where the city wall touches the river. Chairs, +with the official number of bearers, were found ready, proceeded at +once inside the city walls to the Viceroy’s Yamun. There was the usual +rush of guards and deliberation before the outer gates were opened, +although we were only punctual to our time. + +There is a regular etiquette on all ceremonial visits as to how far +you may advance in your chair towards the first door of the three +apartments, at which you are met by the person you visit. + +[Sidenote: Wu-chang.] + +I received the honour due to the highest rank, and was placed on a +raised platform on the left of the Viceroy Li. Tea was ready, and +another table with sweetmeats--the usual compliments of asking your +age, health, and the balance of your family. + +Before I proceeded to announce my intention of proceeding up the river, +His Excellency hoped I would not attempt to do so, urging that the +natives were troublesome and unaccustomed to foreigners, and he could +not be responsible for them. I replied that I had no fear with the +passport of so great a man. To this he made objections and excuses. We +then gathered round the sweetmeats and replied to numerous questions +about armament and guns, all showing a warlike tendency. + +Viceroy Li is a tall, hard-looking man, and I should think quite +capable of ridding himself and his country of any number of rebel +kings, whether a British officer had become security or not. He seemed +to take a great fancy to my Bath Star, and said he should recommend me +to the Emperor for the distinguished order of the Imperial Dragon. + +Our interview lasted for over an hour. + +We took our departure for the residence of the Reverend Mr. John, +one of the greatest travellers in China, at whose house we found a +real English luncheon. He had a pretty, lively little daughter and a +wife who shared his labours. Mr. John afterwards accompanied us to +the curio-shops, which were poorly provided and inferior to those in +Hankow. He gave us much valuable information from the experience he had +gained in the Upper Yang-tse, and seemed to think the _Salamis_ would +have little difficulty in getting up to I-Chang, about 15 miles below +the first rapids. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Among those we visited was the Russian Consul, who concocted a +delicious beverage out of some rare green tea; so scarce that in a +twelvemonth he could seldom succeed in getting more than 120 lbs., and +that went to Russia for the Emperor’s use. There are several Russian +merchants who have been located for years in the interior cities +carrying on an extensive trade in furs, as well as silks and tea. + +Russians appear to have a greater facility in acquiring languages than +other nations. In spite of the rain, cold, and damp, and anything but +the best of meat, certainly the worst of cooking, we enjoyed ourselves. + +[Sidenote: Hankow, Mar. 21.] + +_Sunday._--We were astonished at the appearance, before tiffin, of our +mail from England, four days before the expected time. Two Admirals +dead, and I top of list of Vice; _Rodney_ ordered home. + +There is a neat little church in course of construction. Clergyman a +Mr. MacClatchy; his wife a sister of Sir Harry Parkes. + +Of course there was a race-course, an agreeable and innocent amusement, +our host being among the light weights and about the best rider. The +old course was outside the city walls, on a flat some 12 miles in +extent with scarcely a tree to be seen. In winter, I am told, the flat +is covered with bustards, geese, and hares. + +[Illustration: _May and Webb._] + +The vessel that brought the mail did not bring the long-expected +_Faust_, and our departure was deferred. The good Doctor Gregory kindly +volunteering to look after my belongings, we left them, with the worthy +Webb to help: it was not so bad an arrangement. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +At 3 P.M. the _Fusiama_ steamer put in an appearance, with the _Faust_ +in tow. She was quickly in readiness to proceed, but Risk had too much +work to get through, so the early morning was fixed for our next start. +_En route_ to take leave of the children, found them with Webb in sad +distress over a string of rats secured by wire to a six-foot stick. +With the _Faust_ came up two surveying officers, Dawson from _Sylvia_, +and Palmer, who had been serving in the _Insolent_ at Chefoo. We +managed to get two Chinese pilots, who knew something of the river as +far as Yoh-chow, at the entrance of the Tung-ting Lake. We had also our +Shanghai pilot, Mr. Pendleton, an intelligent man, experienced in river +navigation. With all this staff, and the _Opossum_ some days ahead to +look out for difficulties, the knowing ones were betting that I should +never reach I-Chang. There is a good and well-conducted club at Hankow. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +At 8 A.M. we had taken leave of the children and friends; a few +minutes after we were on our way to the interior of the Celestial +Empire--_Faust_, and a native boat hired by Messrs. Francis and Michi +to sleep in, in tow. Cannot say much for the interesting scenery, for +though the whole country is scarcely raised above the level of the +river from July to October, at the present time we were twenty feet +below. Except where there was a village we were steaming between mud +walls, on the top of which a few natives, or a boy on a buffalo with +the sky for a background, appeared, to break the monotony. When I say +between mud walls, the river was seldom less than half a mile wide. +We anchored at sunset, having had much bother with the hired native +boat. These craft are loosely put together, and do not stand towing +at any speed. This one looked like a lashed-up hammock. The woman on +board with a child in her arms roared to be released, declaring the +boat was filling and calling to her countrymen on the banks to come to +her rescue; but when Messrs Michi and Francis went on board the boat +was found to be all right, no attention was paid to her, while she +continued to roar and wipe her tears with the arm of her child, while +her crew joined in chorus: one of them, to prove his distress, lay on +his back kicking the air with his nailed boots. + +[Sidenote: Tung-ting Lake, Mar. 26.] + +At about 3 P.M. we had struck off from the Yang-tse to go down the +branch that leads to the Tung-ting Lake, and five miles farther came +to off Yo-chow, situated at the outlet. A high wall hid from our view +the city, which appears to have been built on a bluff; for healthiness +it must be as well, or better, than any of the towns we had passed. +Yo-chow is the great port for the wealthy province of Hainan, and I +should imagine well adapted for one of the Treaty Ports, but, opening +it would shut up Hankow, where sufficient money has already been +expended. + +[Sidenote: Yo-chow.] + +There was a good assortment of trading junks; two customs Government +boats were showily decorated, the Captain was entertaining a tea +party. Our surveying officers landed to take sights for chronometers +and soon collected a crowd, some of whom, when the officers had picked +up their instruments and turned their backs to go down to the boat, +began hooting and throwing stones, a number of specimens of which were +brought on board; some of them quite big enough to have knocked a man +off his thwart. + +Observing what was going on, I ordered a blank gun to be fired to +remind them that we were a vessel-of-war, and might pitch something +into them that would hit harder than stones. I asked Swinhoe, who was +just shoving off from the ship, to go alongside the Government vessel +and demand an explanation. The Captain, who was at that moment sitting +down to entertain his guests, said that, seeing the gathering of roughs +that was taking place, he had despatched a messenger to the Prefect, +telling him of the outrage and recommending his sending down a force to +keep the peace; informing him that a great British Admiral had arrived +with a thousand men, and that he would assuredly avenge the insult. + +Swinhoe informed this officer he had better go on board and explain +matters to the Admiral. The customs official, who had some misgivings +as to the propriety of trusting himself within the power of an incensed +British Admiral, hesitated. He held many consultations with his guests, +and they all appeared to think he ran great risk; but on Swinhoe +assuring him that he could not answer for the consequences if he did +not go and explain, at the end of three-quarters of an hour he figged +himself up with another cup of tea, and, taking his pink-buttoned hat, +with its hanging feather, like a fox’s brush, he resigned himself to +his fate, took leave of his fat friends and descended with Swinhoe into +the _Salamis_ boat. + +Seeing him coming, I had only just time to put on uniform and a _war_ +expression, when he was ushered on board. + +After the usual “chin chin,” we were seated opposite one another, +when he broke out in a nervous, but loud voice to explain matters. +I informed him that it was a very serious offence; that by treaty a +man-of-war was allowed to go to any part of China and have protection; +that the affair at Swatow commenced in the same way by some roughs, +over whom the authorities professed to have no control, throwing +stones, which ended in my having to destroy three large towns, with +great loss of life to the inhabitants. + +I told him, in this case, one presumed the Governor was not aware we +were coming, and I should content myself with reporting to Peking the +treatment my officers, while unarmed, had received. I requested the +official to inform the Governor that, when I returned, a life would, +probably, be taken for every stone thrown! He then thanked me for my +forbearance, and, I imagine, was glad when he found himself again with +his tea party. + +Having landed our Hankow pilots, failed in getting others for I-Chang, +but as we got our sights, there was no further cause for detention. The +ill feeling by a few roughs was anything but the prevailing one among +the natives, who swarmed alongside to see the ship, bringing vegetables +and sweetmeats for sale. + +Two or three boats full of the fishing cormorants amused us amazingly: +they had probably been fishing in the clear waters of the lake. The +birds were perched all over the boat, on the gunnels, on the top of +the covering, or anywhere they could get a footing. Although each had +a small line to one leg, none of them were secured; there were perhaps +twenty in each boat. + +The fish they had caught were of various sorts, and, strange to say, +the perch, with its prickly fin, that a pike will refuse to touch, was +not the least common among those in the tub; in fact, while the man +was holding the fish-tub, one of the cormorants shoved his beak in and +seized a large perch. He, in his turn, was seized by the throat and +made to disgorge. I noticed that the man cleverly turned the fish round +in the throat of the cormorant, so that it came out head foremost. +It would have puzzled the cormorant to have got rid of it otherwise, +unless the perch had gone clean through him. I was anxious to ascertain +how the Chinaman prevented the fish passing into the stomach of the +cormorant, and found that it was by a twist of straw tied just tight +enough round the lower part of the neck to hold a fish of about 3/4 +lb. When we started I daresay the roughs went home rejoicing, thinking +they had driven us away. We weighed about an hour before sunset, and +turned down the stream to where we had diverged from the Yang-tse, in +which we brought up for the night. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +We weighed at daylight, with Blakiston’s geographical flying survey of +the river as our only guide. This, officers had enlarged to a scale +of one inch to the mile. We managed between 70 and 80 miles the first +day, without accident beyond that of fouling a junk that persisted in +placing itself under our bows, turn which way we would. No great damage +done: a Chinaman was knocked overboard from the junk, but he managed +to take a plank with him. It is so seldom that a Chinaman ever helps a +drowning man, that we stopped a few minutes until we saw him picked up. + +There was but little variety in the scenery. One remarkable object was +the skeleton of a large forest tree, noticed also by Blakiston. The +only way to account for its standing alone in a country where fuel is +scarce, is that it must have been struck by lightning, when it would be +considered a thing accursed! If a junk is struck by lightning she is +deserted. Porpoises continued to tumble over, and bottles that floated +past gave indication that we were not the first Europeans up the +Yang-tse. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Mar. 28.] + +As if to made up for our good fortune on the previous day, we +frequently touched the bottom. Came to at Shi-show. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +We had gone but a short distance after daylight when we suddenly came +into shoal water. The vessel was quickly stopped and her head put +at another point without success. This operation was repeated four +times, each attempt a little farther towards mid-channel. Whether +the commander was losing patience, and made the last more spitefully +than before, he certainly managed to fix her as firmly as on a rock +on a sandbank about mid-channel. Every attempt to heave her off after +lightening failed; but the _Opossum_ had orders not to proceed farther +than where there was a channel for us, and she must be some way ahead. +A sandbank soon formed on the side opposite to the current, on which +the men walked; but this, our experienced American pilot assured us, +was a matter of course, on grounding on a sandbank in a river with a +rapid current. + +The _Faust_ was got ready and preparing for a start to Shi-show for +junks, by which we might lighten ourselves, when the outline of three +Europeans, with the sky for a background, appeared on the edge of +the bank which formed our mud wall. They were from the _Opossum_, +having heard from a native boat of our position. On consultation, it +was decided that our case was merely one that required patience: the +current would take its time, and eventually release us; we might be +twisted about and fresh banks appear, but in the end we should be +floated off, and none the worse. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +Shooting parties landed, bringing on board a tolerable bag: ducks and +teal had not yet taken their departure for their summer abode; several +pheasants, hares, and snipe. We supplied _Opossum_ with what coal she +could stow, while her native pilot held out hopes of taking us up to +I-Chang. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 31.] + +Shortly before 4 A.M., the rush of the stream chain through the +hawse-hole, and a tremulous motion, informed me that we were off the +bank, while the other bower anchor brought us up in the channel. +It took us the remainder of the day to recover our anchors, stream +chain, and hawsers. On the Sabbath afternoon I invited Risk, my +secretary, to accompany me in a stroll. My feelings were shocked to +see him, on landing, produce a gun and well-stocked bag of cartridges, +while Ponto, a pointer, but a still better retriever, soon came on +the scent of game. Snipe and teal got up in twos and threes, a fair +proportion falling to Risk’s gun. The temptation was too much for +me. Borrowing the gun, while Risk looked on, in the course of a few +moments I returned him an empty cartridge bag. Fortunately he had a few +cartridges left, and was rewarded by a brace or two of pheasants on the +homeward journey. The spring snipe afford splendid shooting, even up to +May, as they work north to their breeding grounds by easy stages. The +birds are nearly double the ordinary size, the result, I presume, of +good feeding in the pâdi-fields. Bags of even fifty couple a gun await +a good shot. + + + + +CHAPTER XCVIII + +YANG-TSE-KIANG TRIP + + +[Sidenote: 1869. April 1.] + +Pilot on board; we were ready for a further start up the river, but +found I had been imposed on. The pilot had agreed to take us as far as +Shi-show, but had not stated when he could take us on to I-Chang. As +time was the only thing of which I had none to spare, I-Chang had to +be given up. In September and October, I believe the _Rodney_ might +be brought up as far as the first rapids. Swinhoe, the two surveying +officers, Dawson and Palmer, and the two representatives of the Chamber +of Commerce at Shanghai, had to be transferred to the _Faust_ and +_Opossum_, and in exchange we received our navigating Lieutenant, +Taylor. I doubt the Yang-tse being navigable except to a peculiar +class of steamer, adapted to the purpose of ascending the rapids above +I-Chang; but that need not prevent enterprising merchants establishing +themselves, as the Russians have done for years, in the capital and +large cities of the rich province of Se-Chuen; and they might establish +a consul, but it is a question whether our relations with China are +at present such that our consul and traders would feel secure without +the protection of a gunboat. Regret not being able to accompany them +farther, but having so much interesting work before me, ought not to +be greedy. + +Having seen our friends take their departure in the _Faust_, we +weighed anchor for our return, and were drifting down broadside on +to the stream without room to go ahead, our stern close to the bank, +which being of mud, I recommended backing into. Her head immediately +paid off down stream, but my advice had been fatal to further rapid +progress. Although no shock was felt, the rudder’s head was twisted and +the rudder unmanageable. On examination, it was found we had to drift +down. I did not like to upset the exploring and surveying expedition +by sending for the _Opossum_, but determined on sending an officer to +Hankow for the _Zebra_ to come up to Hankow. Nothing could have been +more unfortunate than this event, or so completely adapted to upset the +arrangements I had made during the short time I was likely to remain +on the station. The hot season approaching, my anxiety to get to the +northward was great. + +My galley, with Mr. Lee, took her departure at about 6 P.M. on a +journey of 220 miles to Hankow, but with a strong current and the +prospects of an occasional lift by sailing. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 2.] + +Our misfortunes had not come to an end. The morning was fine. We got +under way with the prospects of a good day before us; I had been +calculating with our American pilot whether we should not be close on +our galley at Hankow. We were coming to a part of the river where there +are a succession of islands a-wash, and we ought to have crossed to +the opposite or right bank of the river. _Salamis_ awkward to handle. +The only way the rudder would act was the wrong one; the American +pilot recommended to warp across. The stocks of both bower anchors +had broken. In trying to cross, the ship grounded on the upper side of +the first of the above-named islands. Our hope was in the rise of the +river, while it was possible that the island might rise too! We were +in a fix. Twelve long days were spent getting the ship afloat and to +rights. The bank shifting occasionally, moved the position. + +On the 14th the house-boat _Fanny_ arrived from Hankow. Risk and +ourselves went down in her to Hankow, arriving on the 18th. The +_Salamis_ followed three days later, when the flag was rehoisted. + +On the 25th the French man-of-war _Flamon_ arrived, saluted us, and +also, with three guns, the late Viceroy’s wife and son on their +departure. Weighed and arrived at Shanghai on the 27th. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 30.] + +_Salamis_ paid off: recommissioned by Commander Miller. + +[Sidenote: May 11.] + +Transferred wife and children with Flag-Lieutenant to the care of my +kind friend Raby in the _Adventure_, and steamed down the Woosung. + +[Sidenote: May 15.] + +Came to off Chefoo, a pretty port with red cliffs and good beaches. +Found Lord Charles Scott in the _Icarus_. Went on in the afternoon and +arrived off Taku in time to pick up our old pilot Bandi. Crossed the +bar of the Peiho with the flood-tide, which we carried for 40 miles, +making with three boilers, for one hour, over 30 miles. + +Started again at daylight and got to Tientsin at 9.30, having fouled +but one junk and only touching the bottom once. + +[Sidenote: May. 17.] + +Mr. Morgan, the Consul, lost no time in making arrangements for our +start for Peking. Our party consisted of Charlie Scott, Miller, +Risk, and Dob Crosbie, my nephew. We had six boats, covered in and +convenient for sleeping, another for cooking, one for servants. A +Commander-in-Chief could not travel without a mandarin, who arranged +everything and saved much trouble and annoyance. Mandarin Chaing Lao +(the fifth of the brothers Chaing) arrived about 6 P.M., and we then +spent the next forty-eight hours going up the Peiho, carried by the +flood through the crowds of junks which nearly block up the river. +The crew were willing enough as long as time was allowed them for +“chow-chow” and smoke. We travelled all night. + +[Sidenote: May. 19.] + +We might have reached Tung-Chow this evening, but as the gates of +Peking are closed at 6 P.M., we enjoyed a quiet night by stopping short +of the town. + +[Sidenote: Peking, May 20.] + +Peking.--We had not arrived many minutes before Sir Rutherford’s +stud-groom, with two mounted orderlies, arrived, bringing letters from +His Excellency, stating that horses had been sent on over night. Carts +for our luggage would leave Peking early in the morning. “Don Juan,” +the same horse I rode during our delightful excursion into Mongolia +in 1867, was sent for me. By 9 A.M. we were at the British Legation, +received with the same welcome and hospitality I had experienced when +last here. Conolly took care of Risk; the rest of us were distributed +over the Legation. I was in my old quarters. The baths were luxuries +after our journey, for the water of the Peiho is too muddy for bathing. +Lady Alcock and her daughter joined us at the 12 o’clock breakfast: the +latter a bright, pretty girl, nice to everybody. Those who had not been +in Peking before were shown the sights within reach by Conolly. I had +much to discuss with Sir Rutherford. We agreed that although our late +proceedings had not been approved of by the Foreign Office, what we did +was for the best, and so far from drawing the country into war, the +steps taken were the only ones that averted such a misfortune. Went to +see the Joss that the Sergeant of Minister’s Bodyguard has brought for +me. + + * * * * * + +I sent a photograph of it to General Knollys. It came home in the +_Rodney_ and is now comfortably housed at Sandringham. + + * * * * * + +The interpretation of the inscription at the foot of the Joss is as +follows:-- + + Respectfully made on a lucky day of the tenth month of the + twenty-eighth year of His Majesty K’-ang-Hsi. + +In English dates, October or November 1690. + +The dinner-party this evening included Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hart. He +holds a high position in the Imperial Customs, and has control over a +larger revenue than was ever held by a foreigner in China, or perhaps +any other country. Hart has the appointing of all the heads for +collecting the foreign duties, as well as of the Harbour Masters and +Commanders of Revenue cruisers. He chooses the positions and raising +of lighthouses as well as the placing of lightships. Two years ago he +applied to me for opinions respecting the proper positions of these +lights, which I directed Commander Brooker to furnish. He took great +pains and wrote several folios of information on the subject. + +I was gratified to learn that Hart had, upon my recommendation, +reserved the appointment of Commander of a revenue boat, with £800 +a year, for my old friend Claude de Crespigny. Dob Crosbie, who +had kindly undertaken the duties of Master of the Horse to the +Commander-in-Chief, took an early ride with Conolly to the Horse +Bazaar to look for a quiet pony or two. He got hold of a fairish Dun, +which is docile enough, I think, to carry Colin at Yokohama. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +To forenoon church--a modest little building with no appearance of +extra ceremonies. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +Our traps started by early carts for Tung-Chow. The Joss went off on +Saturday. Sir Rutherford directed that it should be carefully covered +with matting for fear any _dévote_ Chinaman should take umbrage at +a god being removed from the Celestial Empire. The mandarin who +accompanied us was anxious to know if I should burn incense before it +when I got home. I have no doubt he thought I was a convert to Buddhism. + +The fur merchants had many pretty things, but I selected a small piece +of the sea-otter skin, sufficient to make a muff, and was told it was +valued above sable. I had also some commissions with the silk-seller, +and chose some pieces of maize and other silk, which, as Mr. Pepys +would have said in his diary, “did me much pleasure.” + +After _déjeuner_ we took leave of our friends, and mounted our horses +to ride quietly back, much tried by hot wind and clouds of dust. Ice, +however, was plentiful and cheap. Late in the evening our small fleet +was again under way, increased now by two more boats containing the +Joss and sundry carved stones. We had likewise to distribute through +the fleet 8 good-sized cages, containing 16 pheasants from Mongolia for +my friend Tom de Grey. “Crossoptelon Manchuricum” worth “some” should +they reach England alive. Drank Her Majesty’s health _en route_ with +honours. + +[Sidenote: Peiho River to Tientsin, May 25.] + +This has been a scorching sun with a burning wind, while hot sand +found its way into the interior of our boats, as well as into our eyes +and everything we ate or drank. We managed a walk of two or three +miles, which can always be accomplished without detaining the boats +by watching on the chart (the Admiralty one is very good) where the +river takes an unusual sweep round, when you walk across to the nearest +point. No rain having fallen for three weeks, the ground was hard and +hot; and the natives anticipated a bad harvest. + +Among the odds and ends one sees in the shops in Peking, nothing is +more curious, as well as absurd, than the children’s toys. Conolly’s +Chinese servant was put in requisition to make a double collection--one +for our children and the other for them to send by the _Rodney_ to +numerous cousins. + +[Sidenote: May 26.] + +It was near midnight before we got alongside the _Salamis_. + + + + +CHAPTER XCIX + +CHEFOO TO JAPAN + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Salamis_, May 27.] + +Before starting for Peking, I informed the Consul at Tientsin of +my intention to pay, on my return, my respects to Tchung-How, the +same Governor that was here when I was in the _Dido_, and, with the +exception of the Viceroy at Canton, the most finished Chinese gentleman +I had met. In reply to the Consul’s message, Tchung-How hoped we would +not be late as he had to pray for rain. + +Scott attended on my visit to His Excellency, who lived two miles +away on the opposite side of the river. Tchung-How, in addition to +being Governor, is superintendent of trade and junior guardian of +the heir-apparent. Mr. Morgan acted as interpreter. We were received +with the usual courtesy, the Viceroy holding his hands before him and +bending forward at each door. In the inner room we had tea, and then, +in the second, champagne and fruit. Made the visit short, and was glad +to get away; having exchanged into lighter clothing, visited curio +shops, in which there was a sad falling off; dealers in furs and skins +charged double what they did in Peking. + +Had still to return the visit of the Russian Consul C. Skottschkoff. +He has a Cossack look about him; his wife, not being got up to receive +visitors, disappeared by an opposite door, but I believe she is pretty +and speaks English. Our Consul and his wife joined us at dinner; she +made herself very agreeable. + +[Sidenote: May 28.] + +Made an early start with the hopes of crossing the bar in the +afternoon, but the pilot, I believe from the want of his accustomed +cocktail, failed in nerve and muddled us twice; by dark we came to, a +little more than halfway down the Peiho. + +[Sidenote: Peiho-Taku Forts, May 29.] + +Started early, but not in time to save the tide over the bar; a bore, +am anxious to get north. We brought up close to the celebrated Taku +Forts, that the squadron under Sir James Hope had such good reason +to remember. Some of our officers landed, and no objection was made +to their inspecting forts. They report them as in good repair, guns +mounted and ammunition ready, but nothing heavier than 32-pounders, +evidently taken from our gunboats, having the “V.R.” on them; but these +will be retaken before long! + +The European in charge of signal station stated that the garrisons, +formerly thirty or forty in each fort, had within the last month been +increased to 800 soldiers in one and 600 in the other. The coolies +state that all foreigners are shortly to be driven out of China. I +believe they are conceited enough to attempt it. Secret copies of some +of Commissioner Li’s correspondence had reached our Embassy at Peking. +If anything is to take place, I hope it may come off in my time; I am +confident that a war would eventually benefit both sides. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +Read prayers to ship’s company. At 3 P.M. came to at Chefoo. The mail +had arrived from England. Discussions had taken place in Parliament in +which the Duke of Somerset and Lord Clarendon proved how mistaken they +were regarding the state of China. An _apology_ was to be sent to the +Chinese Government for our “mistake” in Formosa! + +[Sidenote: Chefoo, May 31.] + +Inspected Charles Scott’s _Icarus_; as I expected, found her in perfect +order. + +The coaling of the _Salamis_ painfully slow; lazy coolies passing the +coal on board in small baskets holding less than a shovelful each. +Operation completed by 3 P.M. Having laid in a stock of sheep and +poultry, started for Japan. + +Markham informed me that a Russian corvette had been at Chefoo with a +live bear and a lion’s skin for me from friend Etholin of Vladivostock. +They went on to Shanghai, where I hope they will be put into the _Juno_. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +Got through the Simonoseki Straits before dark. Once more the inland +sea; at no time of the year can it look more beautiful; crops ripening +and the green grass and trees in all the freshness of spring. At 4.30 +entered the far-famed whirlpool passage, but it was time of neap tides +and the flood was within an hour of its making, which it does two hours +after high water. It required close watching and quick helm to prevent +being slewed broadside on by the “Chow-Chow” water. It is safest to +pass through with the current. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama, June 6.] + +By daylight we were standing into the Bay of Yedo; _Rodney_, _Ocean_, +_Adventure_, and _Cormorant_ made their numbers. We passed under the +stern of the old _Rodney_, where the band and officers were on the poop +to welcome the old Chief. Steamed ahead of the stately _Ocean_ and +came to before 8 A.M. Found the wife and children well and happy at +the Legation House. Sir Harry Parkes absent in Yedo, but everything +done to make us feel at home. Denison had come out by mail, at his own +expense, to take command of _Cormorant_, as her paying-off was to be +here. Flag hoisted on board _Rodney_. + +[Sidenote: Flag in _Rodney_, June 7.] + +The French commodore and captains, as well as Dutch and American senior +officers, visited _Rodney_. All the heads of departments had already +visited, and been attentive to the wife on her arrival. + +[Sidenote: June 8.] + +Accompanied by Heneage, returned calls of the French, American, and +Netherlands commanders; the two former giving me a personal salute. +The small arms men and marines from _Rodney_ and _Ocean_, 4047 tons, +Captain Stanhope, landed and went through their evolutions, to the +admiration of Colonel Norman of the 9th Regiment (The Norfolk). The +field-pieces were beautifully worked. I was mounted on Sir Harry +Parkes’s charger, which, however, refused to stand fire. I have had the +house built snug and substantial, easy to be got rid of! My ponies Tiu +and Ko in the Legation stable, where the poor old grey given me by Mrs. +Fitzroy is dying. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +Pouring with rain and a gale blowing. We dined with the Marshalls, +plodding there in chairs, ankle deep in mud. The Normans, Mrs. Alt, +Adams, Stanhope, and Helen were of the party; the dinner, as usual, +excellent, wines to match. Drank the health of Georgie West, her +birthday. + +[Sidenote: June 11.] + +Inspected _Ocean_. It is difficult to imagine a cleaner or more perfect +man-of-war. Hard lines, the depriving me of my flagship! Dined with the +Normans in their barrack hut; every exertion made by kind hostess to +make us enjoy our visit, in which she perfectly succeeded. At the door +on way home met a youngster with our mail from England. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama.] + +In noting events it is odd I should have omitted the severest shock +of earthquake that I had experienced. It occurred at 4 P.M. on Monday. +I was sitting at the Legation talking with Risk. The house shook +violently for a quarter of a minute, and after the lapse of a few +seconds went on again, with sounds of cracking and groaning. Keppel +Garnier was with May at the Marshalls: the bells rang, the house +cracked, and the broken mortar was heard tumbling inside the walls. +Mrs. Marshall seized her baby, and Garnier, May; both rushed out on to +the lawn; raining hard. At the Club, billiard balls rolled about, and +the Japs deserted the house. + +The mail did not bring much important news. It was in contemplation +at the Admiralty to submit the names of certain Admirals for the +distinction of Grand Cross of the Bath on Her Majesty’s birthday. +Friend Beauchamp Seymour informs me that, owing to the Commodore not +waiting for the Viceroy’s contingent for the attack on the villages at +Swatow, my name is not to be sent in! + +Inspected _Cormorant_, a fit pendant to the _Ocean_. Poor Brand has +earned his promotion, if the order of his ship is any criterion. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +Early telegraph this morning from _Rodney_: “Many happy returns of the +day to Commander-in-Chief” from captain and officers. Signalled back +“Many and grateful thanks.” Parkes arrived in evening, having ridden +from Yedo. An 8.30 dinner: glad to see my friend so well. Most of the +naval officers and other friends called in the course of the day to +congratulate me on my natal day. + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +Having returned all garrison calls, visited the Foreign Ministers +yesterday. The American Minister, a General, had read the name of +his successor--the only intimation that he was to be relieved. How +pleasantly governments do things! Parkes is the only minister who has +courage enough to take up his residence among these turbulent people! +Yesterday, having arranged with Parkes to go to Yedo with him, found a +horse and escort waiting for me at Kanagava. Without hurrying, caught +up Sir Harry at a half-way tea-house. We were ferried over the River +Rokugo. The supports for a bridge were standing, one having been built +last year for the Mikado, who was on his way from Osaka to Yedo, and +afterwards pulled down, so that no one else could take advantage of it. + +We were met at the tea-house by Mr. Sibbald, interpreter, and young +Hodges, studying to become one; and attended by a mounted escort from +Yedo, as unlike cavalry soldiers as a feminine dress and diminutive +appearance could make them. The present Legation, although not large, +is most pleasantly situated on high ground, with a flag-staff on which +the flag of _Perfide Albion_ may be seen from every part of Yedo! + +[Sidenote: Yedo, June 18.] + +We found Bertram Mitford delightfully situated on another eminence +within a few minutes’ walk, while Adams had taken possession of the +snug little house formerly occupied by Mitford. A small cemetery +separating the two--most convenient for the joint mess. + +Sibbald came in during the evening; he had accompanied the Tycoon’s +younger brother in his travels and visited with him most of the Courts +of Europe. He described the young Jap as intelligent and shrewd in +his remarks, although he got occasionally bored by over-sightseeing. +In answer to one of his questions why our ladies exposed so much of +their persons in evening dress, he was told, “Out of compliment to +His Highness”; on which he supposed if his Emperor had been there they +would have come naked! Nor could he understand high personages dancing: +a performance in his country he paid people for doing. + +Nothing can be cleaner, prettier, or nicer than these Jap houses for +summer residences. The house at Yokohama, engrossing all the best +furniture, the accommodation here assumed a most agreeable sort of +“roughing it.” A party on horseback, and two carriages, in one of which +Parkes drove my wife, went to see the tombs of the Shogoons (so Mitford +spells what we pronounce Tycoon, and he is sure to be right) at Zôôji, +at Shiba, the castle, and other sights in Yedo, which I, fancying I had +seen before, did not join, preferring the cool of the pretty grounds +about the Legation. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +Have some two days’ back journal to write up. In the afternoon news +reached us of the loss of the _Haya Maro_, a fine steamer bound to +Osaka, which seems to have struck on the same rock as the _Nepaul_ +about two years ago, situated about 200 yards to the eastward of the +well-known Plymouth rocks. She was going at the rate of 14 knots, her +bottom was torn out and she went down head foremost in less than five +minutes in 40 fathoms water. The only excuse for cutting the point so +close was to shorten the distance a cable’s length, the captain having +made a bet he would accomplish the voyage to Osaka in thirty hours. +Among the twenty-one lives lost was an old China friend, Margesson, who +dined with us only a week ago. Poor fellow! after service as a merchant +for some twenty-eight years, he was on his way home to enjoy the fruits +of his labours. + +Our dinner party included Hodges, Doctors Sibly and Willes. Willes had +taken service with the Japanese. Although he frequently attended those +connected with the Court, he had never been allowed near the Mikado. +In fact, even now, if necessary to feel the Imperial pulse, a piece of +tape is fastened to the wrist and the end is passed through a hole in +the wall into the adjoining room when the doctor approaches, beating +the mats with his head! + +The next day (20th) the launch started, soon after high water, with the +same party she had brought up, while we waited until Sir Harry Parkes +was ready. I was mounted on the Minister’s pet grey Arab charger. +Mitford kindly accompanied me part of the way, and cautioned me to be +careful of said charger, he having been down once, and getting shaky on +his legs. We pulled up by the roadside. There we found a square plot +fenced round as sacred, the Mikado having condescended to alight on +that place. In another direction a rustic bridge was stopped up, the +Imperial foot having passed over it. + +[Sidenote: Rokugo, Japan, to Yokohama.] + +The carriage with Parkes and my wife reached the ferry at Rokugo just +as I got to the other side. The river is called Tama Gawa (jewel +river). We both nearly came to grief; in spite of all Mitford’s caution +and my care, the beautiful grey fell, as if shot, in the streets +of Yokohama, cutting both knees. Those only who have ridden their +friends’ favourite horse, with a similar catastrophe, can understand +my feelings. When I broke the fact to Sir Harry, instead of wishing +that it had been my neck instead of his horse’s knees, he merely “hoped +I had escaped unhurt.” In the carriage they had had a narrow escape: +one of the ponies, a bumptious beast, that never neared another animal +without apparently wishing to eat it, stopped on meeting a carriage +that had pulled up on the narrow raised causeway, on both sides of +which there is a drop of some 12 feet into the sea, and that made still +more unpleasant by short piles thickly driven in. The beast screamed +and backed in spite of the whip, which was dropped into him smartly by +the Minister. The mounted orderlies saw the danger. One seized my wife, +and the other got hold of the ponies’ heads, only just in time; the +adventure did not improve my wife’s nerves. They reached the Legation +just before me, having taken a different road. + +Sunday was the anniversary of the Queen’s Accession, and in church we +had the service appointed for that event, finishing with “God save the +Queen.” Not at all bad for Yokohama. + +The _Dupleix_, with our friend Du Petit Thours, went out of harbour as +I rode in on Saturday, along the Tikado, and I was much disappointed at +not seeing any notice taken of him when the _Dupleix_ passed our ships, +she being homeward bound, while their kindness and hospitality to Harry +Stephenson and the wrecked crew of the _Rattler_ in September last was +fresh in our memories. + +I learned afterwards that, having the French prisoners on board who had +led on and then deserted the rebels, Du Petit Thours was afraid that a +wrong construction might be put on our cheers, and wrote to Stanhope, +hoping that we should not take any notice of him. We never met so good +a Frenchman or a better man. + +_Opossum_ returned from expedition up Yang-tse. A placard had been +stuck up in I-Chang offering rewards for her capture, as well as others +for the heads of the captain or crew! + + + + +CHAPTER C + +THE CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Yokohama, June 23.] + +Some man remarked that having lost half an hour on coming into the +world, he was never afterwards able to make up the lost time. My +journal has got three days behind, and I feel that I shall not be able +to make it up. This is an attempt. My temper, too, ruffled by a vet +who, I believe, poisoned Mrs. Fitzroy’s grey pony. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +The American Admiral arrived on the 21st and a Prussian corvette on +the 22nd, when much saluting of three admirals with their returns took +place. Hakodati invested, but still holding out. Yesterday commenced +housekeeping on our own account, obtaining our hospitable host’s +permission. Children taking kindly to a day governess after desperate +opposition by Colin. Blowing too hard to return calls afloat. Called on +the Netherlands Consul, who was entertaining a party of twenty Dutchmen +who claimed me as a countryman, and with pleasure we liquored up in +sweet champagne. Colin enjoying the substantials. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +On starting for church this morning, the card of Don José de Grandaria, +ex-Captain-General of the Philippines, was put into my hand. He +had arrived by the American mail _en route_ for Europe, _viâ_ San +Francisco. Good fellow that he is, he came to luncheon, and if +possible will dine; glad of an opportunity of returning a trifle of +his hospitality. News from Hakodadi of the capture of the town by the +Imperialist troops and total destruction by explosives of two of Kerair +ships. They, however, still hold the forts. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +Mounted Colin on the pony “Ko” and gave him his first lesson in riding. + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Had the _Rodney’s_ steam launch ready yesterday evening to convey my +good friend, the Governor of Manila, on board the mail steamer. We +first became acquainted in 1837 when he was Governor of Fernando Po. + +[Sidenote: July 4.] + +The shock of an earthquake was felt about 1 A.M. Clearing up in +the afternoon, Colin mounted his pony before I had got hold of the +tow-rope. Colin touched him with the whip to close with me. The pony, +being fresh, gave a jump and a kick, placing the little man on what he +called his “bob” on the road, and scampered up His Excellency’s soft +turf. + +Soon after midnight a sensation was caused by the report of firearms. +Guards were turned out. Sir Harry Parkes saddled, ordered his escort, +and scouts were sent into the town to ascertain the cause. It proved to +be a few Americans sitting up late to usher in the anniversary of their +nation’s Independence. + +[Sidenote: July 5.] + +The French mail brought news of my promotion. The flag was shifted to +the main and saluted, all foreign men-of-war following suit. Parkes off +for Yedo. He is indeed a zealous, active Minister. The anniversary of +American Independence is to be kept to-day. Our ships are dressed with +flags; the stars and stripes will be saluted at noon by a royal salute. +Hear that our friend Mrs. Alt, who took such care of Algie Heneage and +myself at Nagasaki when we were ill, has had a bad fall from her pony, +which fell with her over the edge of a bank, a drop of some fifteen +feet, kicking her twice in the chest. Called to inquire, and found Mrs. +Alt in the garden. Her ribs were dented, not broken. + +[Illustration: _Mrs. Alt._] + +[Sidenote: July 7.] + +The French mail brought Challier, the successor to Commodore Jones. +Challier commanded the _Newton_ when I had _St. Jean d’Acre_ in the +Tagus. Am left the senior and oldest of all the Naval Commanders on the +station. Stanhope, Crossman, and self inspected yesterday afresh the +site of the Naval Hospital, the erection of which has now been four +years in contemplation by the Admiralty. + +The advantages and saving to the country in money, as well as in +transport of invalids, who could be easily cured in this fine climate, +has been admitted from the beginning. Then again, the idea that the +authorities at home should know better the style of building required +than those on the spot has been the cause of the interchange of plans +and surveys. Plans sent out not suitable to the climate, and again each +successive Government not having the courage to insert the cost in the +naval estimates, the expense now, if the hospital is ever built, will +be more than double what it would have been had it been erected when +its advantages and economy were first acknowledged. + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +To luncheon yesterday on board _Ocean_: everything perfect, in +Stanhope’s usual style. Afterwards to _Rodney_, taking children. She +being ordered home, had all sorts of live animals. Among them were two +bears, who had the run of the ship. In the summer months hammocks were +little used; the bears lay where they liked, the men using them as +pillows. Each bear would accommodate ten or a dozen at a time. By day +they were all over the place, generally aloft, in the tops or along the +yards, from which they could see every arrival on board. + +My daughter was a small four-year-old. While on the poop she found +herself rolling along the deck in the embrace of a bear she had not +before seen. Of course she was immediately released. She knew not what +fear was. The next moment she had seized one of the mizzentopmast +broomsticks, and the bear made the best of his way aloft. He was a +young Siberian given me by Etholin, brought here by the _Juno_ from +Hong Kong; by which ship friend Hugh Low sent us four Sulu pearls. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +My servant, Ah Ho’s right eye black and swollen, painted so, not for +the first time, by my man Fuller--who goes! + +A boat-race came off on Saturday between the United States _Iroquois_ +and _Ocean_. _Iroquois_ held the challenge cock they had won from our +_Zebra_, and published some tall talk in Yokohama papers. The American +boat was a double-banked whaler, the _Ocean’s_ a twelve-oared cutter. +A fresh breeze. Betting in favour of the American boat, on which some +$1500 had been invested. The American officers had been on board +_Ocean_ with their bag the evening before, and remained until every +dollar they brought was covered. + +Never was such an example: the course five miles. The first three +strokes sent the _Ocean_ a length ahead, which advantage they kept, +winning by five minutes. Law, the Commander of _Iroquois_, guessed he +would have to resign the “chicken” he had taken such care of. + +[Sidenote: July 13.] + +Wrote Cooper Key asking him to appoint Gye Gunnery-Lieutenant of +_Ocean_ on recommission. + +[Sidenote: July 14.] + +Was introduced to the new bear, a cub resembling the older one. Band +played at Jardine’s. Colin’s pony evinced his dislike to Europeans by +kicking one of the escort, then Webb, and also trying it with me. Got +on his back and quieted him, on the strength of which he afterwards +kicked one of Herbert Smith’s servants, and near home lifted up his +heels without unseating the small Colin. Parkes returned from Yedo; had +Kassim and the curry cook to let him know what a good curry was. + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +On Sunday we attended divine service on board _Rodney_ and lunched with +Algie Heneage. Yesterday was an eventful one in my small way. Inspected +the old _Rodney_ for last time. Had a farewell luncheon in the +ward-room. Was absent in _Salamis_ eighteen months out of two years. +Hoped to have had the last year on board _Rodney_ when this unfair +order comes to send her home. + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +Band playing at Jardine’s. M‘Hardy, Nepean, and Heneage to dine. While +enjoying cigars the report of a gun from seaward, followed by a couple +of rockets, announced arrival of English mail. Promotion of mates in +_Rodney_. Bath in all its degrees conferred. I passed over for the +G.C.B. Death of my old Chief in Crimea, Charles Freemantle, has placed +me at the head of the Vice. + +[Sidenote: July 25.] + +Got out in the evening yesterday for a ride with Colin. Had Algie +Heneage to dinner, Bamber, Woodruffe, Ogle, and Simley. As _Cormorant_ +was going to the northward, made her signal to weigh and take us in +tow. As we got away, _Ocean_ manned rigging and yards to the very +trucks. They used aloft, with pretty effect, small boat flags, and gave +three hearty cheers to the parting ship, such as Britishers only give. +The American Admiral and Italian ships likewise gave parting cheers. +After luncheon with Algie Heneage, some four miles from the anchorage +we bade the old _Rodney_ farewell. + +It is seldom that relationship has the same hold on a sailor’s +affections as that of a shipmate. They manned the rigging and repeated +hearty parting cheers. After we had quitted her, the flag was +transferred to _Ocean_ and saluted by _Rodney_. French mail in. Article +in _Saturday Review_, May 29, on “English Policy” in China refers to +the actions of Gurdon and Domville at Swatow and Formosa last year. +Local papers defend my policy. + + + + +CHAPTER CI + +THE CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Flag in _Ocean_, July 31.] + +Our band played on the Bund, no better in the Far East! Japs making +great preparations to receive the Duke of Edinburgh. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama, Aug. 2.] + +Parkes and M‘Lay come to dine. Much talk on China affairs; few people +better able to form an opinion than our two guests. All agreed how +lamentably misinformed our Government is. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +Fine weather at last. Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Parkes, and +Newton dined with us. In the night we were disturbed by a row in the +domestic department. A big negro caulker had been visiting in the +village, and returned at 3 A.M., having been rolled in the mud a +foot deep. He made for the kitchen, where his appearance terrified +the Chinese cook, who gave the alarm of thieves. On the animal being +removed to his ship, he admitted to its having been caused by keeping +low company, as if there could be anything lower than himself. He had +affected while on board a religious turn of mind. + +_Sylvia_ arrived yesterday, and Brooker, who called this morning, +proposed a party on board his ship to visit “Die Boots.” + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +Starting at an early hour to go on board _Sylvia_, was unable to finish +remarks for preceding day. On 4th, while at dinner, a gun announced +the arrival of English mail. Having seen telegrams in both American +and French up to 3rd July, my mind was set at rest about chance of +promotion and relief, the mail bringing news up to June 18, which +pronounced “Admirals Firm.” The last thing that caught my eye was a +small envelope with “_Telegraph_” in the corner, which sure enough +contained all that I had been dreading for a year. It was from the +Admiralty, July 3, and commenced with, “You are promoted”: it ordered +me to Singapore to meet my relief, who would be there on September 3. + +In fact, I was to go tearing down against the monsoon in _Salamis_, +with her worn-out boilers, when my relief could come up in half the +time, before the wind; and then I was to have the pleasure of crossing +the Red Sea in the month of September. + +As there are two routes, and no detriment to the Service thereby, +I determined on waiting at Yokohama. The time has come at last, my +reign nearly over, and I have no cause to complain; if it were not for +the unjust withholding the G.C.B., I should proceed on my way home +rejoicing. + +We got under way yesterday in the _Sylvia_ at 10 A.M. Our party +consisted of Madame and Mademoiselle Bertrand, Raby, Loreiro, Miller, +and ourselves; everything successful but the weather, which continued +rainy and misty. We anchored off the bay at 11, and having made an +excellent breakfast, proceeded in steam launch. Another boat brought +the ladies’ chairs, coolies, and those who liked to come. + +The channel, except at high water, when you can make a straight course, +is difficult. However, with the assistance of a native pilot, we got +into the tea-house at Kanasawa without accident, beyond occasionally +touching the bottom. In less than a quarter of an hour, pedestrians, +horsemen (our ponies had been sent on early from Yokohama), and chairs +were fairly under way. + +The scenery beautiful, and in spite of the weather, and slow progress +of chairs over slippery ground, everybody was cheery, Madame Bertrand +walking the whole seven miles. “Die Boots” was there in all his +grandeur, and a striking sight it is. Since I saw it two years ago, the +inside has been desecrated with the usual Anglo-Saxon names; in fact, +there is a native who makes a small fortune by attending with a ladder, +brush, and red paint for all those who wish to immortalize their +lady-love’s or their own interesting names! + +Our coolies had to “chow-chow,” and the afternoon was far advanced +before we were on our return. The slippery paths made progress so slow +that it was dark by the time we reached our boats; the tide, although +falling, was still high, and with the help of our natives and the ship +in the offing well lighted, we got safely on board, but too late to be +back in time to entertain Sir Harry, who had promised to dine with us. +We partook of Brooker’s hospitable tea, at which we made an excellent +_dinner_. The _Sylvia_ under way anchored at 10.30. By 11.30 we were at +home; by 12.30 at midnight we were well shaken by an earthquake! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +_Pearl_, 21, corvette, Captain John F. Ross, arrived under sail from +Hakodadi. Ross, Boxer, and Miller dined with us. Inspected _Sylvia_, in +very nice order. Flag hoisted at 8 A.M. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 13.] + +Rougemont, “First” of _Ocean_, came in evening full of distress at a +boat full of officers having been missing for two days, and without +grub. Active and energetic steps immediately taken by Parkes: the +Consular Establishment and whole escort put in motion, the Japanese +Government despatching couriers by sea and land. It appeared afterwards +that Rougemont had been living with Beato, and forgot that the missing +might have returned in his absence from the ship, which, in fact, they +had, and the whole of them had well fed and turned in an hour before +this smart “First” gave this unnecessary alarm. Parkes indignant, and +small blame to him. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 15.] + +Sabbath, and piping hot! We were enlivened by a royal salute in honour +of the birthday of the Emperor Napoleon III., fired by the French ships +in harbour. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 17.] + +Hot weather appears to have set in. The greatest nuisance one has to +contend with by day, as well as by night, are the mosquitoes. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +Our band played at Jardine’s on the afternoon of 17th, where I went to +meet our letters on their landing from _Salamis_. Ascertained that the +death of Admiral Bowles was the cause of my promotion. A telegram from +Admiralty extending the time that I should meet my relief at Singapore +to the 19th September. If they had taken that date into consideration +at first, I might have been down there in time, but now the 19th will +be as inconvenient as the 3rd September was a fortnight ago. The +telegram also contained directions to assemble as large a naval force +as practicable to be placed under Stanhope, but its destination could +not be made out. No public news. Admiralty permission given to dispense +with _razors!_ for which I am sorry. + +The death of Lieutenant Kent of the _Avon_ enabled me to promote +Hammet (from _Rodney_), whose uncle was killed in the trenches before +Sevastopol. Yesterday at 10 A.M. inspected _Adventure_; clean and +wholesome. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Threatening weather: got wet through in our ride. Wilkinsons and Adams +dined with us yesterday. Slight earthquake in afternoon. This morning a +typhoon. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Aug. 22.] + +The typhoon was sharp and short, but did considerable damage. +Marshall’s house nearly unroofed. Lindo’s fanciful cottage blown down. +Verandahs round soldiers’ huts blown up. American steamer, adrift, +stove in _Salamis’s_ bows, carried away _Sylvia’s_ bowsprit, and did +much more damage of less interest to me. Band played on the bluff. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 23.] + +Brooding over my wrongs and the want of consideration on the part of my +friends the Admiralty in ordering me to Singapore against the monsoon, +to give up the command to a successor and my junior, when he might so +much more easily come up to me at a saving of £1700 worth of fuel! +Another hot day. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 24.] + +Mail off this morning; a lull now till the arrival of the _Galatea_, +overdue. Phelps dined with us yesterday: he the manager of the Pacific +Mail Company; she “raised” and in heart a Southerner; he ditto, but +both loyal. The Scotts of 10th Regiment also dined: she the daughter of +the once charming Caroline Stoll, who married, first Thompson, father +of Mrs. Scott, secondly Bob Tryon: she died soon after. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +Made an attempt yesterday in Curio Street: disappointed in the trip +I had promised myself with the Duke of Edinburgh to Peking; have +now the difficulty of executing two ladies’ commissions for curios +in Japan, where they are now not only scarce, but enormously dear. +Our dinner-party included Dr. Hofferman, Staff-Inspector-General of +Military Hospitals, Maxwell, Bosman, and Leman. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +Sorely tempted yesterday to buy two nietschkies, but prices are 500 per +cent above what they used to be. Got a ride with my boy, who begins to +move faster than the Betto who leads the pony can stand. French mail +arrived this morning, bringing French Admiral. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 27.] + +Into Curio Street again! Could not resist two of the best nietschkies I +have seen, but at the highest price. In the evening we got the contents +of French mail. An Admiral Seymour dead. Hope it is not my friend +Henry, although news by last mail announced his being ill. _Penelope_ +to be new flagship. Hewitt to be Captain. This morning returned new +French Admiral’s visit; also looked up my old friend the American +Admiral Rowan, in whose cabin I saw my photograph framed. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 30.] + +Intended to have recorded passing events after church yesterday, but on +coming out, the _Galatea_ was reported coming in (29). + +[Sidenote: Aug. 30.] + +Our Saturday dinner-party included Major and Mr. Lucas, Gambier +(_Sylvia_), and Stanhope. I was restless during the night, which, added +to occasional strange noises, sent me cruising about the house with my +revolver. Having seen the orderly on the alert, I placed the revolver +on the dressing-table, which stood between the entrance to the bathroom +and the side of the bed where I slept, close at hand, and again turned +in. On awakening, found some expert thief had entered by the bathroom +window, left open for air, and had not only abstracted three pairs of +my wife’s boots, but, by way of adding insult to injury, the rascal +appropriated my revolver and the clothes of my Flag-Lieutenant. + +Several Japs had been seen about the grounds during the night by the +orderlies, but in the unfinished state of outbuildings and grounds they +had many ways of escape. A small ladder used by the builders was found +placed against the bathroom windows, by which the rogue or rogues had +entered. + +After luncheon yesterday, Parkes accompanied me on board _Ocean_, +where I went to receive the Captain of the _Galatea_; afterwards went +unofficially on board _Galatea_ to talk over arrangements for landing, +etc. H.R.H. looking well, after his wound at Sydney, and courteous, +as he well knows how to be. We left him to read the contents of three +mails. + +Parkes and Stanhope dined with us, and made all sorts of arrangements, +which were upset by His Royal Highness this morning. At 11 +A.M. he landed at the bottom of the grounds to let me know his +plans. Accompanied the Prince to call on Colonel Norman, Acting +Commander-in-Chief, and found Mrs. Norman. + +On arrival of the _Galatea_, I was astonished to find His Royal +Highness and crew clean-shaved, H.R.H. not having heard of the +Admiralty permission to grow beards, the order having reached Yokohama +a few days previous to his arrival--a proof of H.R.H.’s strict idea +of discipline, although he knew very well that I should not have +interfered with the internal discipline of his ship. + + + + +CHAPTER CII + +CLOSE OF CHINA COMMAND + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Yedo, Sept. 1.] + +Here I am in the Mikado’s summer palace at Yedo. Invited by H.R.H. the +Duke of Edinburgh, at whose disposal this delightful residence was +placed but yesterday. Proceedings have first to be recorded. The day +commenced with heavy rain, which continued, but the Duke had decided on +hoisting the royal standard at 8 A.M., landing in state, and holding +a levée for Britishers and Foreign Ministers at the Legation at 11. +Having previously gone on board and been saluted by all the men-of-war +present at 10.30, we left the _Galatea_ in the Prince’s barge. Yards +manned and another royal salute. + +H.R.H. was received on landing by a guard from the 10th regiment, +another of French marines, while the road was lined up to the Legation +by the 10th and Japs together: contrast good. The Prince was cheered +from the yards of his own ship on leaving, which was repeated by such +ships as he passed in his way. Had the weather been anything but rainy, +the whole thing would have had a grand effect. After the levée we had +luncheon at the Legation, then the Prince, putting on shooting jacket +and _Rodney_ hat, proposed a walk in Curio Street. H.R.H. having +visited my wife, we mounted ponies and had a very fair inspection; +many things were selected and put aside for future bargainings. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +I was on board _Galatea_ by 9 A.M. At 10 we started in steam launch +for Kanagawa, where Parkes had sent his carriages and mounted escort. +In the first were H.R.H., Parkes, myself, and Mitford (latter told +off expressly for attendance on the Prince); the other brought Elliot +Yorke, Haig, and Adams. + +Weather fine, journey agreeable, the only _contretemps_ being the +springs of our vehicle breaking down and causing us twice to alight for +repairs; but the Japanese roads, however good they may have been, are +not quite prepared for the wheel traffic now existing between Yedo and +Yokohama. We were preceded the whole way by a mounted escort of Japs, +while innumerable small guards turned out and presented arms after +their own demi-French instruction. + +At the Palace the Duke was received by a Prince, and the party +appointed by the Japanese Government to attend His Royal Highness. No +place could have been better adapted. Suites of apartments completely +furnished in European style, while the walls were covered with +curiously painted Japanese paper. A guard of twenty-five marines had +arrived before us. Our Royal Marine guard was confronted by a similar +number of Japs, who formerly belonged to the Tycoon, and had been well +drilled by the French. In the Prince’s sitting-room was a magnificent +bronze vase covered with beautifully executed birds, dragons, etc., +one of the presents from the Mikado. After luncheon Minwaji-no-Mia, a +Prince of the Royal blood, paid a visit. Not much to be done in the +afternoon. The Legation retired to their respective houses. We strolled +through the pretty, well-kept grounds, made to look as little formal +and like nature as possible. The Prince is showing me every kindness +and consideration, selecting a room next that occupied by himself, +consulting me as to costume for dinner. And on my suggesting round +jackets as the coolest, he appeared in one, with gold lace trousers, +which appeared to be the mess dress of _Galatea_. Dinner quiet, and +good coffee, the best I have tasted. The Prince chatted with me long +after dinner, and seemed really anxious for advice as to his future +movements, hoping I would give him concise orders while within the +limits of the station, so I sent a despatch for Risk and Dawson that we +might arrange the same. + +I waited an opportunity to ask His Royal Highness about his narrow +escape at Sydney; he kindly showed me the wound at the right of the +spine--a hole into which I could thrust the end of my little finger. + +Among the things sent yesterday were ten magnificent volumes of about +14 ins. square by 4 ins. deep, containing coloured pictures--in fact, a +complete history of Japan, a thing I believe no money could purchase. +In front of the Prince’s window were large China bowls containing +beautiful broad-tailed specimens of goldfish. Other China bowls, ranged +on stands, contained hundreds of flowers, dwarfed trees, etc., all of +which His Royal Highness was to consider his own. + +[Sidenote: Palace of the Mikado, Japan, Sept. 3.] + +It rained all yesterday. In the afternoon we managed to get over to a +covered-in place within the Palace grounds to see a combat of swords +and spears. Two at a time appeared on the platform; the swords were of +bamboo. The practice was interesting enough; heavy blows and thrusts +were exchanged. An umpire decided when the fatal blow or thrust had +been delivered. The head was protected by helmet and steel masks. +Armour on the left side, as far down as the waist. + +After bowing to the audience, the combatants saluted one another: on +the same principle, I suppose, as our antagonists in the prize-ring +shake hands before punching one another’s heads. When the supposed +fatal blow was given, the vanquished walked off, while the victor +uncovered his head and “kow towed” to H.R.H. The combats with long +spears were conducted on same principle. The men were selected from the +Japanese guard. + +The Minister said that had he educated the warriors of different +Daimios they would be sure to fight it out afterwards to the death +if different chiefs’ followers met. Risk came up in steam launch to +arrange a revised route for _Galatea_, she being three weeks behind +time. Having duly considered the whole, and what Kellett might have +had to say had he not been pitched on his head before leaving England, +which delayed his arrival, we were of opinion that I should give up the +San Francisco route, accompany the Prince to Peking, meet my successor +at Hong Kong or Singapore, and telegraph to the Board accordingly. + +The forenoon continued rainy. After luncheon a man of Mitford’s came +with curios--apparently a bundle of rubbish; there were, however, two +swords, which Mitford pronounced to be excellent because the owner +had names written, which he pronounced to be certificates of their +manufacture by an extinct artist. The Prince paid some £80, and to my +mind there is no proof that he was not taken in, and Mitford too. + +[Sidenote: Yedo.] + +We rode, a largish party, to see the tombs of the Tycoons, situated in +the midst of a well-wooded garden or park. The most beautiful temples +and elaborate carvings of any I have seen. We were allowed to inspect +everything, being in company of His Royal Highness. + +On reaching home we found mats before the door and preparations for +jugglers: wonderfully clever; and here, as in other parts of the world, +there was music, such as it is, with the usual buffoon or clown. +To-morrow we are to have a procession and the Prince’s visit to the +Mikado, which we look forward to as rather a bore. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +One of the Japanese princes, Parkes, and Adams joined the dinner last +night. After that we had conjurors; the pretty butterfly trick was +beautifully performed. Yesterday Aitkin missed a small ivory-handled +clasp-knife from my dressing-table, and this morning my gold watch, +which I have had for forty years, and which I had given to my dear boy, +has disappeared--I think while I was taking my bath. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 5.] + +I put the case of theft into Mitford’s hands, who, having engaged the +servants, offered to guarantee their honesty with his life, or rather +undergo torture on the wheel if any act of dishonesty could be brought +against any one of them. However, before breakfast was announced, the +culprit was discovered to be the Japanese lamp-trimmer, and not only +was my watch restored, but knives, gold rings, and money belonging to +others were found in his possession. The only difficulty now will be to +save the unfortunate wretch from decapitation. A guard of fifty marines +having been landed from the _Adventure_, we had a late breakfast, and +with the Legation mounted escort, a Jap ditto, and streets lined in a +way, we proceeded in two carriages for the Mikado’s residence within +the moat and castle walls. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 6.] + +The Prince, Parkes, and self were the principal persons, and, in +fact, the only ones admitted into the same room as His Majesty. No +presentations took place and everything was as formal as need be, but +exceedingly curious. A more friendly meeting took place afterwards +at a small bungalow in the pleasure grounds of the castle, which are +very extensive. Mitford acted as interpreter, and the exclusiveness +surrounding the Mikado’s person was broken through. The Prince +presented him with a beautiful gold box, on the lid of which a +miniature of himself was set in diamonds. + +After dinner on Saturday (4th) we had theatricals in the evening. +Performers all women; acting supposed to be very good, and the greatest +decorum preserved throughout. Yesterday morning we witnessed a game of +cup and ball on a large scale, which took place on a plot of ground +railed off for the occasion. A number of horsemen, about eight on each +side, compete in throwing the greatest number of balls through a hole +in a planking at the end of the ground, which is about two hundred +yards in length by twenty broad. The balls are red and white. The +riders are distinguished by their costume, which is very picturesque. +Each man is armed with a staff of bamboo, about five feet long, at +the end of which is a sort of cup, by which they manage to pick up +the balls, which are, in the first place, thrown on the ground on the +opposite end from the board in which the hole is. + +They then ride towards it and throw the ball at the hole and go back +for another. The balls bound back within the enclosed ground, and are +again picked up. The saddle is never quitted. They jostle one another, +knock the balls from each other’s staffs, pick up and throw altogether +away the balls of their adversaries. A signal from behind points out +the number and colour of the balls that have passed through the hole. + +The next thing was the interior of a great Daimio’s Palace and to +be entertained in regular Japanese fashion. The house of the Daimio +selected for the occasion belonged to a Japanese noble whose income is +estimated at £800,000 a year. He was absent, but a Prince of Japan was +there to receive and do the honours. + +A Japanese fish dinner has been often described. We had to sit on +the mats and eat with chop-sticks, drink cups of hot _saki_ with the +chief men, into which fun the Duke of Edinburgh cordially entered. In +front of the banqueting room was a theatre, and a selection of plays +performed during the feast. This was done by the retainers of the +Daimio, according to ancient custom. The actors were men; the chief +performers wore masks. The dresses were gorgeous, and looked as if new +for the occasion. We did not understand the language, but Mitford had +kindly, beforehand, translated the plays. The motion of the actors +was so exactly like that of a turkey cock with his tail spread out, +that any one who has watched that bird, or a peacock under similar +circumstances, strutting about, needs no further description. + +After the plays were over certain mysterious-looking boxes were brought +from the theatre and placed at the feet of the Prince for inspection. +On being opened they proved to be the masks that had been used on this +occasion, four in number, carved out of wood and painted. There was +the lovely face of woman, the comic, the tragic, and one I may call +the diabolical. These were said to be 400 years old. After this we +pulled on our boots, mounted, and rode away, escorted as before, taking +rather a circuitous route that the Prince might see something more of +the city. On getting home found that Stanhope had come up to stay with +Adams. + +A covered place has been erected in front of the house for the +acrobats, so convenient that you see everything from a chair in the +verandah. Another such place has also sprung up, which looks like an +equestrian circus, but which I find is to be used for wrestling. In +fact, nothing has been forgotten by these kind and hospitable people +that can add to the comfort or amusement of our Prince. + +I forgot to mention that after our return on Saturday we found the +falconers waiting in full costume. The hawking, however, was very tame. +A small species of water-rat was driven out of the ditches, which a +small hawk clawed before it had gone 5 yards. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +Wrestling appears to be a national pastime, and is conducted with much +order and ceremony. The Prince had a large party of Daimios and chiefs +to luncheon yesterday, after which meal we proceeded to see the combat. + +One side of the square, which must have been about 80 yards, was +covered in and fitted with chairs and seats for the Prince and his +friends. On the raised platform in the centre, which was about 20 feet +square, and likewise roofed over, was an altar, on which incense was +offered to propitiate some deity. The leading wrestlers from one side +then appeared and formed a ring on the platform, and went through +certain mystic movements, clapping of hands, extending arms, then +legs, stamping heavily with first one foot, hands resting on one knee, +then the other. + +This over, they retired to a small building erected at the corner near +the end of the building in which the Prince and his guests sat, and +from which to the platform there was a pathway railed off. Another +party then issued from the opposite corner at the other end of the +Prince’s stand, and went through the same ceremony. After these had +retired, a herald summoned a man from each side. Certain ceremonies +were again gone through. A friendly pinch of salt was brought by each +and mixed with the soil on which they stood; they extended the arms and +stamped and kow-towed and then squatted and watched each other like two +game-cocks, until the signal was given by the umpire, when they sprang +at each other with a yell and wrestled in earnest. I did not observe +anything peculiar in that manner of wrestling. There must have been as +many as a hundred of each of the best. The wrestling of the champions +was reserved for the last and was exceedingly fine. The good Prince +Nwajima and the smaller officer Uwajima were the only strange guests. + +After dinner the walks through the pleasure-grounds were lighted up, +and from one of the summer-houses on the edge of the lake we witnessed +some inferior fireworks, but the best these good people could produce. +In another pavilion was a native band in full costume, probably the +Mikado’s. The night was calm and fine. On return from the Legation, I +found in my room a present from His Majesty in the shape of a handsome +sword. + +Acrobats came shortly after breakfast and performed some of the most +extraordinary balancing ever seen. For instance: a man lying on his +back balances on the soles of his feet four small things piled on +one another. One of them was a glass bowl with fish in it; another, +a bird-cage with a canary; a larger box on top, out of which came a +child, who climbed to the end of a branch that projected nearly at +right angles from a bamboo-tree growing out of the upper box--difficult +to describe, as I never saw the like. + +After luncheon there was fishing with casting-nets: all good in its +way, the scenery being so picturesque. + +[Sidenote: Yedo to Yokohama, Sept. 7.] + +Events, although small, have followed each other so rapidly as to +leave no time to write. By 10 A.M. on the 8th, Princes of the blood +royal, Prince Nwajima, and the Daimios of lesser note, assembled at +the summer palace to accompany the Duke on board the _Galatea_, she +having come over from Yokohama on the previous evening, where they were +to inspect the ship and remain to luncheon. The _Ocean_ and _Pearl_ +came over early in the morning. The morning had been rainy, but held +up as we embarked. The launch grounded outside the islands, and as the +tide was falling we cast off, and pulled on board the ships which were +anchored between five and six miles from the shore. As we approached, +the ships broke their masthead flags, manned yards, and fired royal +salutes; looking as no other nation’s ships can look--ropes taut and +yards square. Everything was most successful. The afternoon turned out +fine, without being too hot. The royal visitors took their departure +in _Ocean_ steam-launch at about 3.30 P.M., yards manned, and another +salute. Our Prince’s royal standard was, after giving the steam-launch +proper time to get out of sight, hauled down and my flag hoisted in its +place; and then the signal made to weigh. + +We proceeded across under easy steam, and anchored at sunset, when the +flag was transferred to the _Ocean_. On landing, it was evident, by +the concourse of people, that the Prince was expected. He, however, +preferred remaining in his own snug quarters on board, and I took +advantage of the Legation carriage to get a lift up the hill. In the +morning I went down to Aspinall’s office to thank him for his most kind +offer of taking the entire charge and trouble of the bungalow off my +hands, and then into Curio Street, where I invested $800 for H.R.H. +in bronzes; also a trifle for myself. Grand dinner given by the 10th +(Lincoln Regiment) to H.R.H. + +[Sidenote: Yokohama Sept. 12.] + +_Sabbath._--Pouring with rain, sufficiently to prevent our attending +divine service. A great dinner was given on Friday night at the +Legation, including the Japanese Princes, such foreign ministers as +were in Yokohama, foreign Admirals, and officers commanding ships, +followed by a ball, our countrywomen appearing to advantage. Prince +tired; made his escape after two quadrilles and one waltz, which he +danced with our friend Mrs. Marshall. + +H.R.H. took a quiet breakfast with us this morning, approving of +our curry, and then went home to be tatooed. The merchants having +kindly determined on giving me a parting dinner, invitations came out +yesterday, including the Prince among the Captains invited to meet me. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +The kind friends who had decided on entertaining me at a parting dinner +determined no expense or trouble should be spared. The press, too, +entered cordially into the idea, and each had its leading article +puffing me up to any extent. There was one painful part in all this to +me: the speech which it entailed, that I had to prepare; although no +preparation was necessary, one could think of nothing else. On Monday +(13th), the Prince, Parkes, self, and the party who saw the Mikado at +Yedo, were photographed by Beato. Inspected afterwards the _Salamis_; +clean and improved. + +On Tuesday (14th), H.R.H. planted some valuable shrubs in my bungalow +ground. They had formed part of the ornaments of the Mikado’s palace in +which the Duke had resided at Yedo. In the evening the dinner came off. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 16.] + +Nothing was left undone by my entertainers; about eighty sat down, +including the Minister, Chief-Justice Sir E. Hornby, Colonel Norman, +and Captains of ships--among them H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. My +staff were also among the guests; _Ocean’s_ band in great form. Behind +the head of the table was a place screened by flower-pots, where the +wife and a few ladies were stowed. + +Got through my speech better than I expected; the whole thing was a +complete success and ended by my being carried on the shoulders of +my entertainers round the tables, preceded by the Prince’s Highland +piper! Yesterday we had plenty to do, packing up and shifting on board +_Salamis_, intending to sail on arrival of mail. Embarked with wife and +chicks on board _Salamis_. It was determined to wait no longer for the +mail, or our time at Peking must be cut short. + +On a signal from _Salamis_ at 3 P.M., _Galatea_, _Ocean_, and _Pearl_ +weighed, and formed into line. All the foreign men-of-war manned +rigging and cheered. The _Galatea_ had just fired a parting salute to +Sir Henry Parkes, when the Japanese battery fired a royal salute, +returned by _Galatea_. The American Admiral gave me a parting salute, +which _Ocean_ returned. Many of the merchant ships were dressed with +flags, and a large American steamer, with a greater part of the +community and _Delaware’s_ band on board, accompanied our little +squadron, led by _Salamis_. After standing down the bay some miles at +half-speed, the American steamer _Nautilus_ passed up the line with +many ladies on board, giving each of us parting cheers. Poor Parkes +fancied he should never have another Naval Chief who would so cordially +co-operate with him. Our friendship was of long standing; his friendly +grasp at parting was touching! I met him first when he was a boy, and I +commanded _Dido_ in 1842. In 1858, he wrote--“Oh for a Keppel, just for +one month.” + + * * * * * + +I was among those who stood by to see Parkes’ monument unveiled in St. +Paul’s Cathedral. + + + + +CHAPTER CIII + +PEKING + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Kobe, Sept. 18.] + +Anchored off Kobe (_Salamis_), intending to go to Osaka in _Salamis_ on +the morrow. Consul Enslie and the Governor of Hiogo visited the Duke +of Edinburgh on board _Salamis_, _Ocean_ firing the Consul’s salute, +_Galatea_ the Governor’s. Nothing could be more civil and attentive +than all concerned were. Messenger sent to Osaka to prepare for the +royal visitor: the Mikado’s residence placed at H.R.H.’s disposal. +We landed and walked to the waterfall, where we found a guard and +refreshment. The Prince much pleased with the scenery, he and Stanhope +dining with us afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Osaka, Sept. 19.] + +Although the Sabbath, our time would not allow the deferring the visit +to Osaka. The Prince and party were early on board, and by seven we +were under way, with _Galatea’s_ steam-launch in tow. On anchoring off +the bar we were immediately visited by the officials, placing a state +and other government boats at the Prince’s disposal; the Governor +coming off, but the tide falling, we were transferred to the Mikado’s +magnificent state-boat. + +Before entering the river a royal salute was fired from the battery. At +the settlement the Prince was received with a guard, and every possible +respect. The houses closed by order on both sides: a mark of respect +with which the Prince would rather have dispensed. Consul Gower had +lunch ready, after which the Prince was taken, much against his will, +sight-seeing; they rode to the castle and elsewhere. After another +feed, returned to dinner on board _Galatea_. + +Just before reaching the anchorage, with position lights up and +everything proper, we were most wickedly run into by a small iron +Jap steamer, smashing the secretary’s dispatch-boat and our port +spare-spar. Herself unhurt, beyond loss of bowsprit and spring of +fore-masthead. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +Damage done by Japanese steamer prevented sailing early. Carpenters +of ships on board to clear away wreck. At 10 A.M. we weighed. Heard +the last of old _Rodney’s_ band playing, “Cheer, boys, cheer!” as the +crew mounted the rigging to the very trenches to give their departing +old Chief three times three hearty cheers. _Ocean_ making signal +“Farewell,” we led _Galatea_ through the Osaka Straits, intending to +anchor for the night to the southward of the rock, our leadsmen on the +paddle-boxes showing depth of water. + +However, in rounding to _Galatea_ took the ground. I joined H.R.H. on +the bridge, not with the idea of interfering, but I wished to see him +get his own ship off. + +His first idea was to send the lighter boats to sound in every +direction. The shallowest water was that on which the ship had +grounded. The boom-boats were got into the water: bower anchors +prepared for laying out. I remarked that the B.B., hanging from the +cathead, looked heavy. H.R.H., referring to his small watch bill book, +had noted the exact weight and size of every spar, anchor, and boat on +board. I asked no more questions. + +The B.B. anchor, with hemp cable, was laid out astern, the end passed +through port side of the captain’s cabin, brought to the capstan and +hove taut. I was wondering what H.R.H. would do next, when I heard +the message to the engine room, “Go ahead full speed.” I wondered, +as I believe others did. In less than five minutes the cable astern +slackened, capstan bars manned: she was afloat. I inquired of H.R.H. +what made him first go ahead! He had ascertained that his ship was on +the hard sandbank. He knew the vast power of the screw propeller would +dissolve the edge of the sand--the rest followed. + +The old sailor of sixty had learned something from the young steamer of +twenty-five. We enjoyed an excellent dinner on the starboard side of +His Royal Highness’s cabin. Weighed. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +We anchored for the night in the bay to eastward and northward of Kosii +Island. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Our run to-day was for the Simonesaki Straits. _Galatea_, not being +over handy with her port helm, we came to in Witshed Bay, opposite the +city, to wait for slack water the following morning. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +Lovely weather; having led _Galatea_ through the remainder of the +straits, made signal to part company and rendezvous Nagasaki, we +taking the short cut to the westward, while she took the route to the +northward of Ai Sima. During the afternoon we passed through that +beautiful passage, anchoring at sunset in the snug little harbour of +Kigatsu. + +[Sidenote: Nagasaki, Sept. 24.] + +Weighed just before daylight and entered the lovely harbour of +Nagasaki. Here we found _Adventure_, _Galatea_, _Icarus_, _Dwarf_, +Commander C. Walker, and _Havoc_, merchant ship, dressed with flags +to do honour to the Prince. I soon made arrangements with Mr. Consul +Flowers, that as the _Galatea_ was coaling both sides, and guns run +in, no salute could be fired, and cut out work for the morrow. H.R.H. +received Governor, then an address from British residents. At 2.30 the +Prince will lunch with the Consul and will return the Governor’s call, +after which, I think, he will have had enough! Mr. Medhurst being here, +expressed the great disappointment there would be caused by His Royal +Highness passing Shanghai without visiting that model settlement. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +Royal standard hoisted on board _Galatea_ at 8 A.M. At 9 inspected +_Dwarf_; another pattern of cleanliness and order, such as, we flatter +ourselves, is not attained by any other nation or station. Took the +wife afterwards to visit Alt’s house, where Algie Heneage and I were +so kindly nursed, where on different occasions we were really ill. We +also went over the grounds of Glover’s pretty place, where poor George +Fitzroy died last year. + +Leaving the wife with the Medhursts at the Belle Vue Hotel, where +the children already were--enjoying conjurer’s tricks--went on board +_Galatea_ to assist the Prince in entertaining the Governor, then the +Foreign Consuls, after them a deputation from the British community; +after which the Prince left under a salute, ships present manning yards +and masthead flags up. + +After a sumptuous luncheon with Consul and Mrs. Flowers, embarked, and +landed higher up to return Governor’s visit, which we did, preceded by +Jap guard with drums. Returned on board to a quiet dinner. + +Having witnessed some of the prettiest illuminations that can be +imagined, the _Galatea_ twice lighted up with red, white, and blue from +her yard-arms and row of ports, we proceeded to the _Adventure_, where +the wife and my “only daughter” had preceded us, leaving Colin to the +care of Webb. + +As soon as the Prince had heard of the above arrangement, he proposed +dividing his staff and friends intended for the trip to Peking +between _Adventure_ and ourselves, leaving _Galatea_ to complete +coal and follow us at her leisure to Chefoo under sail. Elliot Yorke +and Chevalier, the artist, and Mr. Porter, who had kindly undertaken +to prepare the way to Peking for the Prince and party, went in the +_Adventure_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 26.] + +_Sabbath._--By 6 A.M. _Icarus_ had started under sail, _Adventure_ +following, ready to give a tug across. On board _Galatea_ to breakfast. +Inspection below, and Divine Service, which with fair singing appeared +to be well conducted. Took a stroll through the porcelain shops, which +do not hold with the Chinese, although the Japs excel in lacquer ware. + +Took an early dinner with the Prince, he having a shore appointment. +Stanhope and I paid the Flowers a farewell visit. The Mikado had sent a +few small presents to the Prince, and to me a jar of saki! + +[Sidenote: Sept. 27.] + +It was 2.30 P.M. before I got my passengers, consisting of the Prince, +Stanhope, Haig, and Lord Charles Beresford on board. Weighed and stood +out, cheered by _Dwarf_ and several merchant ships. + +[Sidenote: Chefoo, Sept. 30.] + +Came to, 2 P.M. Found _Icarus_. Elliot Yorke had gone in _Opossum_, +leaving me and Mons. Chevalier. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Miller under way before daylight. Charles Scott joined our party. + +[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 2.] + +Daylight found us off the bar, Peiho River, with the pilot, Mr. Band, +coming alongside. Pronounced the bar passable at 10, when we forced her +through the mud, Mr. Band going ahead full speed. At the usual place we +came in contact with a tier of junks, but having left most of our boats +behind, purposely, at Chefoo, we escaped with a broken gunnel, losing a +small kedge anchor, and bent davits; Mr. Band consoling himself with a +glass of grog. + +The consternation among the boats as the wave caused by our speed +lifted them on to the banks, and occasionally washed a looker-on off +his legs, was rather amusing. The Taku Forts appeared in good repair, +and the pilot reports some heavy American guns being got into position: +the coolies at work stating that in one year’s time they will be +prepared to rid themselves of us barbarians! + +It was sunset before we arrived at Tientsin; it being within a day +or two of the races, the promised horses of Mr. Porter were not +forthcoming, but the boats ordered by Mr. Consul Maguire were ready, +and it was decided by His Royal Highness that we should start that +evening after dinner. + +A steamer overtook us and kindly gave us a copy of the _Overland +Express_, by which it appears that my successor and his staff had left +England on August 5. Unwelcome news; although one could not help being +glad at Kellett’s recovery. + +The boats by which we ascend the river are comfortably fitted for +sleeping; then we have a messing boat, a cooking boat, and one for the +servants. Rougemont and Stanhope, with the rest, including Chow-Wang +the mandarin, who has always accompanied me. We are eleven boats; each +bearing a small flag, white with a red cross, St. Andrew’s shape. + +[Sidenote: Peiho River, Oct. 3.] + +I am afraid the Sabbath is somewhat lost sight of, the only consolation +being that the tracking coolies might have been employed in a less +congenial way. They have no weekly rest-day. + +Our volunteer provider and supervisor of everything is pronounced to +be an impostor, and Mandarin Chow-Wang is a useless expense. However, +Scott’s and Stanhope’s servants and my man Aitken do their best; the +great difficulty being to keep the boats together, that with the +provisions being always out of the way. Grapes, water-melons, and +onions to be purchased at the villages. The water is too muddy even to +wash in. + +A hot, dry, south-westerly wind blowing much dust, books and papers +curling up; preferable to wet and damp though! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Still moving up the river; but our progress has been slow owing to the +difficulty of keeping so large a number of boats together. However, +all seem jolly and good-tempered; no one more so than our good-natured +Prince, whom every one delights in. + +Yesterday (4th) at Hosinu, the half-way town, we found that good fellow +Conolly, who had come to meet us from the Legation, bringing me a +letter from Sir Rutherford, and to the Prince a hearty welcome. + +Nothing could have been more absurd than the plan laid down for so +large a party by our self-appointed adviser, Mr. Porter of the Imperial +Customs. The idea of riding up in the cool and splendid weather of +September is all well enough for one or two, but he undertook to mount +our nine selves, four European servants, and convey luggage, to do +which he proceeded from Nagasaki on board the _Adventure_ in advance. + +On our arrival at Tientsin found no horses, he having calculated on +the kindness of a good-natured European community to mount us. Nor +could the Legation provide horses sufficient for our party more than +half-way. Here we are at the close of the third day without a prospect +of doing more than get to Tung-Chow with every preparation of boats +made beforehand. The Prince cooked for us a wonderful omelette, 200 +eggs and other things in it, for breakfast. + +[Illustration: _The Prince who made the Omelette._] + +[Sidenote: Peking. Oct. 6]. + +Soon after daylight our flotilla had all arrived before 8 A.M. Sir +Rutherford’s groom “William” put in an appearance with the stud, among +which I recognised my old friend “Don Juan.” There were mounts for all, +besides carts for luggage, etc. A pleasant two hours’ ride brought us +to the Legation, where the Prince received a sincere and respectful but +hearty welcome. Lady Alcock quite recovered, and Miss Lowder looking +as charming as ever. We breakfasted soon after 12, while outside were +collected the usual bazaar of curios, furs, etc., much to the amusement +of our party, who, including H.R.H., were like children at a fair. Our +party was so large that the Attachés took a part to dine with them. The +chaplain, Mr. Burden, and his wife dined with the big ones. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +The bazaar reopened before breakfast, H.R.H. investing considerably. +The Russian Minister and the French and Prussian Chargés d’Affaires +came to meet the Prince at the convivial morning meal; better than a +formal presentation, His Royal Highness being entirely _incog._ + +In the afternoon Conolly, H.R.H., and I rode into Curio Street, where +I was induced to join in a lot together, my choice being a beautiful +Chinese jar, the likes of which I have not before seen. Other things +too were bid for which may yet find their way here. + +[Sidenote: Legation, Peking, Oct. 8.] + +Quarters here very comfortable; a nice little early breakfast of good +bread and butter, tea, and eggs brought to your room. As H.R.H. amuses +himself until the small hours at bowls, I thought I might dawdle too, +but about 9 I got an invitation to accompany him to Curio Street. Had +a chat with Sir Rutherford this morning on China affairs, and found +that he lamented the present policy of our rulers at home, and had +clearly pointed out the dangers, if persisted in, of our drifting into +another war. He showed me the copy of a letter Lord Clarendon had found +it necessary to address to Mr. Burlingham, late American Minister, +pointing out how different is the statement of the Chinese Ambassador +(that the Chinese Government were for advancement) from the real facts, +by which it appears that nothing is farther from their intentions, +and that therefore Lord Clarendon should consider his present policy +an experimental one only. By which it seems to me their eyes are +reluctantly being opened after the dust thrown in them by the Minister, +Burlingham. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 9.] + +H.R.H. and party have gone sight-seeing and to a luncheon in the Palace +grounds provided by Sir Rutherford Alcock. We dine each day fourteen, +the younger ones taking turns to dine at the Secretaries’ mess. We +move from table after the first glass of wine, followed by coffee and +cigars, the Prince going to his favourite bowls, and we old ones, as +well as a few younger, attracted by the fair Miss Lowder to sixpenny +pool. + +[Sidenote: Peking, Oct. 10.] + +_Sabbath._--After attending church, different parties had different +ways of amusing themselves. H.R.H., to whom it was a novelty, partook +of a regular Chinese feast--bird’s-nest soup, eggs that had been kept +a hundred years or longer, shark’s fins, etc. Most of us went into the +attractive shops of Curio Street. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 11.] + +Obliged to turn out betimes to enable servants to pack and start the +many carts that ought to reach Usung before us. Until the last moment +the vendors of curios flocked in and displayed their tempting articles. + +At 2.30, after an excellent luncheon, we were once more on the +Legation horses, and bade adieu to our kind and hospitable host and +hostess, with their pretty daughter, on whose horse, “Snowball,” the +light Admiral was mounted, H.R.H. riding my old friend “Don Juan,” +Conolly and Baker accompanying us. It was sunset before we were all +embarked with our goods and chattels, and an hour later before we were +clear of the numerous trading junks that jammed the creek, which gave +time for Conolly and Baker to dine with us. Conolly had, of course, +delighted everybody, while nothing could have been more obliging than +both as interpreters. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 13.] + +H.R.H. cooked his dish of eggs, after which we resumed whist. A +fortunate turn in my luck; got up winner of the expedition of 140 +points, some of it going towards curios. Having dined comfortably, 8 +P.M. brought us alongside _Salamis_, H.R.H. going on shore to bowls, +having first arranged to wait over the morrow. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Mr. Chow-Wang put in an appearance early, which looked like a settling +of accounts, and certain difficulties about them were suddenly solved +by H.R.H. insisting on paying the whole of the expenses of our +expedition, left dollars with the Consul to be returned to Mr. Porter. + +[Sidenote: Tientsin.] + +We found at Tientsin letters from Chefoo. The Shanghai community +regretting that circumstances and want of time prevented their proving +separately their appreciation of my services in the Far East, invited +the wife and self to a grand ball. H.R.H., Stanhope, and self mounted +donkeys and rode to the town. The Prince had selected eight from the +Navy and challenged the shore at bowls. They met at 9 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +It was four o’clock before our Prince came on board this morning; +they had a spirited and hardly-contested game, the shore, however, +beating the Navy five successive games, His Royal Highness backing his +side until he had lost nearly four hundred dollars. Then he pluckily +challenged them to double or quits, which he won. A long steamer, +the _Chili_, ahead, was about to start for Shanghai as soon as we +were out of the way. Wrote by her, thanking the community for their +kind appreciation of my services, and regretting my inability, owing +to orders from the present Board of Admiralty, to accept their kind +invitation. At. 1.30 P.M. weighed and steamed down the Peiho for the +third and last time. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +In steaming yesterday we met an American steamer with the French naval +Commander-in-Chief on board. He was probably going to consult with +his Minister as to the best means for obtaining redress, a French +missionary having lately been beaten to death, another proof, if any +were wanting, of Mr. Burlingham’s policy. Our commercial treaties have +been forced on these Orientals, and by force only can we make them +respected, or even retain a footing in the country. + +With history and centuries of experience before them, our Ministers are +imposed upon by a highly paid American adventurer and made to believe +that the Chinese people only require civilised treatment to receive +and welcome us all over the Celestial Empire, whereas their rotten and +ignorant Government are only plotting to get rid for ever of the hated +barbarian. + +While looking out of the window during my toilet saw a well-dressed +China woman stumping along on her poor contracted feet with her +hands clasped and extended, shrieking and repeating some word. She +suddenly turned towards the river, making a wonderful good run, and +tried to plunge in. The water being low she stuck in the mud, when a +man and woman went to the rescue and drew her on the bank, where she +lay kicking her shapeless feet up until we passed out of sight; poor +creature! I suppose they have their fits of jealousy as well as we +barbarians. + +The tide not being high enough on the bar we anchored, which gave us an +opportunity to inspect the Taku Forts--which we shall have to occupy +some day. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +At 10 A.M. went to inspect the _Galatea_, where I was received with +manned yards and all due honours. Found her beautifully clean, and in +all respects a man-of-war. There is no doubt H.R.H. is fully captain of +his own ship; without an efficient head she could not be what she is. +Ship’s company below the average as fine-looking men, but as clean as +seamen who wear beards and moustaches are likely to be. + +His Royal Highness came on board _Salamis_ to take leave of the wife. +Old Raby, with his good-natured, comical face, took leave of me on +board _Galatea_. On parting company _Galatea_ and _Icarus_ gave three +hearty cheers from the rigging. Proceeded to Hong Kong. + + + + +CHAPTER CIV + +HOMEWARD BOUND + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Hong Kong. Flag in _Salamis_, Oct. 23.] + +Came to in Hong Kong. Vice-Admiral Sir H. Kellett, my successor, the +Commodore, and other commanders came on board. Keswick, of Jardine, +Mathieson and Co., came inviting me to East Point. Wife and children +had gone there in steam launch. Called on Governor, taking Lady +MacDonnell a pair of pet china jars from Peking: one of which their +orderly sergeant managed to smash in unpacking. Called on General +Whitfield, who was confined to bed. He had sent his aide-de-camp and +staff on board _Salamis_ on our arrival. We were kindly welcomed at +East Point. The same evening there was a croquet party; Maginac in his +glory. Besides the Grants of 9th Native Infantry and the O’Shaugnessys +of staff, Gower and Robertson from Canton met us at dinner. + +Great preparations for the reception of the Duke of Edinburgh. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +To church in the Jardine carriage. I had issued a memo to the squadron +yesterday that I should give up the command this morning. Friday fixed +for my entertainment by kind Hong Kong friends. Sorry to hear of the +death of kind friend Mrs. Gilman. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +Our hosts got up an agreeable party at Pokofolum: Alexanders, Grants, +Pollards, Overbeck, and others. Drove back by moonlight. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Dined with Overbeck. Large party. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +The day of my entertainment. Cannot get the idea of a speech out of my +head. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +It came off at last--a flattering event, enough to turn my old head, +Governor and all great people attending. My reception kind and +enthusiastic. The continued cheering tended to give me nerve. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +Daily papers called it “the greatest and most successful entertainment +that had ever been given in Hong Kong.” Dined with the Commodore; one +of his good and cheery dinners. Admiral and Commanders present. Believe +I part in harmony with all. + +[Sidenote: Sabbath, Oct. 31.] + +At 7.30 A.M. _Galatea_ was at anchor in the harbour and galley on +shore. Should have been on board by 9, but His Royal Highness had +already visited the Commander-in-Chief and made arrangements for +landing in state on the morrow; but on my pointing out how much more +convenient it would be if His Royal Highness would defer his landing +until after departure of the mail on Tuesday, he acceeded to this, as +he has done to every proposition I have ever thought it right to make. +His Royal Highness received me so nicely, with all the warmth peculiar +to his nature, yet never seeming to forget that I was, or had been his +Commander-in-Chief. It was arranged that he was to call on, and lunch +with the Governor at 1.30, and dine there in the evening, returning to +_Galatea_ to sleep. + +As the morrow would be my last in Hong Kong, the Duke kindly proposed +that self and wife should take a farewell dinner with him; but on my +stating the distance of East Point, and the early rising on the Tuesday +to go back to the mail steamer, he kindly accepted an invitation to +dine with Keswick, which would greatly please our worthy host. + +Returned to East Point in time to go with wife to church. Received the +sacrament--my last in China. At the close of the service, Buckle, the +Governor’s A.D.C., came to our pew to invite us to meet the Prince at +luncheon. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +Much to do at the last. Took a farewell luncheon on board _Galatea_, +meeting the Admiral and Commodore. His Royal Highness gave me a copy of +the _Galatea’s_ voyage to Australia. Under my name on the title page he +wrote “from his affectionate admirer.” + +The dinner at East Point was a complete success. In addition to His +Royal Highness and suite were the Heards, Keswick’s _fiancé_, Miss +de Bourg, Kellett, Miller, Smith from Government House, Robertson, +etc. This was the great night of illuminations. We were invited to +see it from the _Galatea_, but the guide took His Royal Highness and +ourselves to the wrong landing-place; we missed the chairs and got +into a procession of illuminated fish of gigantic size. And the Duke +mounted with my wife up a ladder into a small Chinese theatre, which he +naturally concluded from its gaudy decoration and commanding position +must have been intended for himself. At midnight the party dispersed, +but His Royal Highness insisted on steering his barge with the old +Admiral and his wife back to East Point. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +Now comes the end of my naval career in China, where the greater part +of my services for the last twenty-seven years have been so pleasantly +passed, but everything must come to an end. + +[Illustration: “_The Little Admiral_” (_Hong Kong_ “Punch”).] + +I had bespoke the steam-launch to take luggage and selves on board +the P. and O. steamer, but one and all appeared determined to do me +honour to the last. Although my uniforms had long since been packed, +I was to embark from the Government wharf under a salute and with a +guard of honour. At 8 A.M. the royal standard was hoisted on board +the _Galatea_, and a general royal salute, with ships dressed, took +place. I passed the guard, with Colin clinging to my hand. At the +pier we found all the Government officials in full costume to bid +farewell to the little old Admiral, rigged out in his Norfolk shirt +and “Rodney” hat, and instead of his galley there were the _Galatea’s_ +barge and cutter--the former manned by His Royal Highness and +ward-room officers, and steered by the Commodore, to take me off; while +the latter was manned by the gun-room officers to take the wife and +children. Colin, however, refusing to quit his hold of me, partook of +the honour of being so conveyed. Never was such a demonstration, such +a triumph, for an Admiral degraded! On board, too, I met all my old +friends. There was the kind-hearted Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell, +with a photograph for my wife of the house in which, not a year ago, +Colin was so near his end; Overbeck and old Fischer’s son; honest +old Henry Kellett, my successor; the hospitable Commodore, and the +Prince, in rowing costume, with his crew, fourteen in number. His Royal +Highness came into my cabin on deck, and there, in the quietest way, +presented me with a gold watch as a souvenir, which he said would do +afterwards for Colin, who seized the case containing the watch and +insisted that it had been given to him! I, however, have never been +without it. + +On shoving off, the Prince and his crew gave three more parting cheers. +The _Salsette_ screwed ahead to the eastward, and having gained room +turned round, passing again through the ships, when the cheering was +repeated: foreigners, as well as our own men-of-war; even the invalids +from the hospital-ships caught the kind infection. This old party then +retired, feeling very grateful and his heart full. + + + + +CHAPTER CV + +LAST VISIT TO THE STRAITS + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Singapore, Nov. 7.] + +It was no small pleasure to be allowed another visit, although a +farewell one, to the Straits Settlements. Just after sunset, as the P. +and O. _Salsette_ entered New Harbour, a larger ship than usual, loomed +through the mist--the _Rodney_ on her way home. In less than half an +hour I was at dinner with Algie Heneage. They had, as might have been +expected, a long and tedious passage down, but adhered to the sapient +instructions issued by the Admiralty, not to use steam unless in case +of danger. The extra time and pay of the crew would be more than +expense of fuel. + +Both Governor and Judge had made preparations to receive us, and +had sent their carriages. It was arranged, as the steamer would go +alongside the P. and O. wharf early to-morrow, we should land there +more conveniently, when the wife and children should go to Sir Benson +and Lady Maxwell, and I to Sir Harry and Lady Ord. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 8.] + +As the _Salsette_ hauled alongside the coaling pier, I saw my old +friend, W. H. Read. He was one of a deputation who had come to invite +me, on the part of the community, to a luncheon on the morrow. Large +dinner at Government House--a palace. Whampoa there. He gave me a pair +of cassowaries to add to the museum on board _Rodney_, also some pigs +to establish a breed at Bishopstoke! + +[Sidenote: Nov. 9.] + +Had intended to have paid a visit to the _Rodney_, but continued rain +set in, which lasted till it was time to start for the entertainment, +which took place in the P. and O. Office building. His Excellency +kindly drove me there. The room was prettily fitted with flags +and flowers, while on the walls were the names in large letters, +formed with flowers, of the ships I had served in on the station. +Beginning with _Magicienne_, in which I was a Lieutenant, there came +in succession, _Dido_, _Mæander_, _Raleigh_, finishing with the old +_Rodney_ (now without flag flying). The chair was occupied by my old +friend W. H. Read, with Sir Benson Maxwell, the Chief Justice, on his +left. The tables were full; the guest of the day received with cheers! +The chairman came at once to the toast which had brought them together, +and went into a long detail of the ships in which I had served and +commanded on this station, beginning with _Magicienne_. A laugh was +raised when he alluded to the Tumongong of Muar offering me the hand of +his daughter. “Then,” Read said, “there was the _Dido_. I remember her +well, with her taunt spars, sky-sail poles, flying kites, and graceful +hull, dashing about the station in every direction, and always in for +a fight when one was to be had.--The _Mæander_, with Sir James Brooke; +his merits recognised, the K.C.B. installation took place here. The +_Raleigh_, in which fifty-gun frigate he sailed into this beautiful +harbour from the westward to show his confidence in its safety, and +the wisdom of the P. and O. in taking his advice when he told them of +its existence in 1849.--Fatshan, ‘the smartest cutting-out affair of +modern times.’ Last comes the _Rodney_, of which vessel I can only say +we have seen too little; but we endorse the verdicts of Hong Kong and +Yokohama: he never undertook what he did not carry out, and a better +passport to posterity after such a stirring life no man need possess.” + +Read concluded his speech by asking them to drink “Long life and +prosperity to the gallant Admiral, with three times three--and don’t be +afraid of bringing the roof down!” + +Got through the returning of thanks with what composure I could muster +before so many good old friends. Sir Benson Maxwell made a kind speech +about the wife and children, which was warmly received, and to which I +did my best to respond. The meeting, which was a great success, broke +up only in time to go on board the steamer. My farewell cheer was +from the last of that noble class of ships, the _Rodney_. Friends had +collected on the P. and O. wharf to give us “one cheer more.” + +[Sidenote: Penang, Nov. 11.] + +At 8 A.M. we anchored off Penang, my kind old friend Lewis the first +on board to welcome me; also a letter from Colonel Anson inviting us +to pass the few hours of our stay with him. The steamer remaining for +six hours, we had only time to make a hurried call on the Lewises +before going on board. Old Jack Rodyk on the pier to see me off. Adieu, +Penang; and adieu for ever the Straits and China! + +[Sidenote: Galle, Nov. 17.] + +Came to before breakfast in what is called Galle Harbour, but an open +and dangerous anchorage. Money has been voted to build a breakwater. We +found no fewer than five of the P. and O. steamers, the _Surat_ being +told off to take the passengers to Suez. _Surat_ the same I came out +in near three years ago, but my old friend Dunn no longer in command, +having lodged his ship on a reef in the Red Sea, from which she had a +narrow escape. + +Keppel Garnier went at once on board the _Surat_ to see about berths, +while Risk went on shore to see if we could not have possession of +what is called “Queen’s House,” the original residence of the Dutch +Governors, who thoroughly understood comfort. It was noon before he +returned, it having been necessary to telegraph to the Governor, +Sir Hercules Robinson, at Colombo, for permission; the reply being, +“Certainly, if not occupied by Lady Napier.” Lady Napier was on her way +to join her husband in Calcutta, and sailed shortly after our arrival +in the harbour. Our steamer was to start again at 5 P.M. for Suez, but +it was a pleasant change for the children and ourselves, if only for a +few hours. + +[Illustration: _Jack Rodyk._] + +We had no sooner taken possession than the house was inundated with +venders of all sorts--curios, inlaid workboxes, and desks of antique +fashion, carved elephants in ebony and ivory, tortoise-shell combs, +porcupine quills, walking sticks, precious stones by a dirty native, +who called himself “Stony Merchant,” whose goods we were informed were +all manufactured in Birmingham. + +Of course the children wanted everything. Colin got the model of a +native boat, May an ebony elephant. I treated myself to a pair of ivory +ones, which were removed from the sitting-room table while we were at +dinner, most probably by the man to whom I had paid fifteen shillings +for them. We enjoyed a fresh-water bath. In the adjoining room was an +enormous bed, big enough not only for the Dutch Governors of former +days, but Vrouws and families! Among the callers was Wodehouse of the +Civil Service, a nice fellow, agreeable as most of that numerous family +are. The harbour-master conducted us on board the Government boat. + +It was dark, but it did not require much light to find that the deck +was covered with some thirty or forty children, varying from the age of +six downwards. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +Coaled at Aden. + +[Sidenote: Suez, Dec. 3.] + +Suez.--The _Surat_ was the first of the P. and O. steamers that landed +her passengers alongside the wharf close to the new dock. A train took +us to the hotel, where we found the great traveller, Sir Samuel, with +Lady, Baker; they had lately been at Quidenham. We had a walk and talk +with them. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +The train took us off at 8 P.M. without giving us a chance of seeing +anything of the canal or country. After fourteen hours’ suffering we +got out of the train and embarked in a small steamer close by, which +conveyed us to Marseilles. Hence across France and so home. + + + + +CHAPTER CVI + +SOME FAREWELL NOTES + + +[Sidenote: 1869. Dec. 14.] + +My apprehensions about my poor friend, Vice-Admiral George Henry +Seymour, were realized. Nearly the first news on our arrival was that +of his sad and untimely death. He had early dropped the name of George, +as it was that of his respected parent, the good Admiral of the Fleet, +Sir George H. Seymour, G.C.B., to whose residence in Eaton Square I +hastened, and was received as the oldest friend of his beloved child. +There was a letter addressed to me on the table with touching details, +which I will not reproduce in its entirety. Henry was at the time of +his death a Lord of the Admiralty and Member for Antrim. The following +are extracts from his father’s letter:-- + + EATON SQUARE, _December 22, 1869_. + + MY DEAR KEPPEL--From the long and sincere friendship which existed + between my dear Henry and yourself, I feel certain that no one will + have felt a sharper pang than yourself when you heard of his untimely + death. + +Sir George Seymour in the conclusion of a deeply interesting letter, +adds:-- + + You have many friends, but never possessed a more sincere one than he + was to you. + + He marked it on the very day of his death, when his eyes flashed on + seeing some one approach him; he thought it was you, and holding out + his hand, with a faint smile as he did so, mentioned your name. He + expired on July 24. + + As a faint hope, he had joined his sister, Mrs. Gore, at Carlsbad, + and Her Majesty, with her usual thought and kindness, had sent Sir + William Jenner and Dr. Ellice; they pronounced the case hopeless.... + Very sincerely yours, + (Signed) G. H. SEYMOUR. + +[Sidenote: Gunton Park, Jan. 1.] + +In compliance with kind invitation from the Prince of Wales, find +myself at Gunton Park. The Princess as charming as ever, but not +improved by the new fashion in hairdressing. Took Her Royal Highness in +to dinner. Whist afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 2.] + +Arrangements very pleasant. A cup of tea and slice of bread and butter +on being called. Breakfast when you like at small tables. Church within +a hundred yards; singing good and sermon short. The young Princes, +Edward and George, dined while we lunched. Informed the Prince that I +was writing to the Duke of Edinburgh. Was sent for into the Princess of +Wales’ boudoir; the Royal children romping while the Princess carried +the baby. The Prince was there. Altogether a charming picture. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 3.] + +It was 7.30 P.M. before the fresh company arrived. On going into the +drawing-room the most conspicuous and handsome (the Princess had not +come down) was the Duchess of Manchester with seven rows of pearls, +scarcely whiter than the fair neck they were on. Old Lady Ailesbury, as +young as ever, the same flaxen hair, frizzed out. Lady de Grey looking +very piquant. They all went into the shade when the Princess put in an +appearance. + +Among the men, H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, but little altered; Lord +de Grey, Lord Hartington, Duke of Manchester, Lord Huntingfield, +Jim Macdonald, with his silky white hair; young Lord Dupplin, Oliver +Montagu, grown out of all remembrance, and young Knollys. We were +twenty to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 4.] + +The Royal brake and another open carriage took us to the shooting +ground, where we had driving partridges until luncheon, which was hot +and good, in a farmhouse; after that, covert shooting. The Princess and +ladies came out after luncheon. + +[Illustration: _Last of the_ Rodney, 1884.[5]] + +[5] This picture of the _Rodney_ was given me by Mr. Emmanuel Emmanuel +of The Hard, in whose possession is the original oil painting. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Rainy and dull morning; much chaffing and good-temper among the ladies. +Lady Ailesbury in distress for a newspaper, which young Oliver Montagu +provided on condition of a kiss. The good-natured Prince, seeing me +in a new great-coat, made me take his and save my own. Luncheon in a +farmhouse. The following days were passed in the same happy manner. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 10.] + +With rest of company took my departure. A happy visit not to be +forgotten for many reasons. + +[Sidenote: April 27.] + +Portsmouth.--_Rodney_ only paid off this morning. In perfect order to +the last. Some £12,000 paid to blue-jackets and marines. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +The following letter reached me:-- + + 40 DOVER STREET, W., + _May 31, 1870_ + + DEAR SIR HENRY--The University of Oxford propose to confer upon you, + if it should be agreeable to you to receive it, an honorary degree at + the approaching Commemoration, in recognition of your distinguished + services to the country as a naval officer. It is very pleasant to me + to be associated as Chancellor in this expression of their respect. + If you should accept the degree, it will be necessary that you should + be present in the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford on Wednesday, June + 22. The ceremony will be over by one o’clock.--Believe me yours very + truly, + (Signed) SALISBURY. + + Sir H. Keppel, K.C.B. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +By 2.20 train to Oxford. Wife and Georgie West in lodgings at Muir’s in +High Street, I to Richard’s snug quarters in Christchurch. The good Tom +Garnier, Fellow of All Souls, undertaking to provide for our party at +his rooms. Dined with the Vice-Chancellor Leighton in the magnificent +library of All Souls, meeting Lord Salisbury, Bishops, Judges, Canons, +Ex-Ministers, and all those about to be made D.C.L.’s. Excellent dinner +and some good speeches. + +[Sidenote: June 22.] + +Accoutred in full uniform, surmounted by a college cap, and a doctor’s +crimson silk hood and cloth robe. Assembled, according to arrangements +published in the _Oxford Gazette_, in the Library of All Souls, thence +to the Sheldonian Theatre. + +The Chancellor, heads of houses go in, leaving us who are about to +receive the distinction outside until summoned. After waiting an hour +and a half in the outer hall, we went in, single file, through a crowd, +I following Robert Lowe. Cheering more or less loud announced the +entrance of the forty candidates. + +Difficult to describe one’s sensation on entering this magnificent +amphitheatre; rendered still more beautiful by tier above tier of +lovely women, each armed with a bouquet, such as the season produces +to perfection. Above the ladies, in an upper gallery, were the +undergraduates, who loudly expressed their approval, or otherwise, +of the different persons as they appeared below to receive the +distinguished degree about to be conferred. + +In front of the entrance, on a throne raised to the level of the lower +gallery, which contained the ladies, sat the Marquess of Salisbury, +as Chancellor, at a desk; supported on either side by the great +dignitaries, as well as by those who had preceded us and had already +received the D.C.L.: an imposing sight. My place was next behind Lowe, +Chancellor of the Exchequer. + +As we approached, an official announced in Latin who and what one was. +This gave ample time to those who, like myself, felt nervous as to the +mysteries of the whole affair, to look about them. An attempt was made +by some of the undergraduates to cry down Mr. Lowe with “Non Placet,” +which called forth corresponding cheers from his friends; the clamour +and noise lasted some minutes. + +At last my turn arrived; name, rank, and performances were given +out, as were those of my predecessors, in Latin. Loud and prolonged +cheering. The Chancellor rose and addressed me in Latin, after which +the bar was removed, I ascended the steps of the throne, shook hands +with Lord Salisbury and then took my seat with brother D.C.L.’s and +held my tongue. + +Lunch, including ladies, at All Souls, then to the Floral Garden and +excellent museums. Weather hot and thirsty, with plenty of cooling +drinks. + +[Sidenote: 1871. May 19.] + +By to-day’s post received a flattering letter from Mr. Goschen, First +Lord of the Admiralty, stating the gratification it was to him to have +submitted my name for the G.C.B. I replied that his opinion was more +gratifying than the distinguished decoration. + +To London. Went to the Queen’s Ball, and met many friends. + +[Sidenote: London, July 3.] + +Donned full dress uniform, without decorations; drove to Windsor +Castle, where, after an excellent luncheon, I, succeeded by many others +(being the Senior K.C.B.), was invested by Her Majesty with the order +of the Grand Cross of the Bath--having first been knighted. At the time +of receiving the K.C.B. got a dispensing order. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 27.] + +Letter from the Duchess of Buccleuch, giving us the choice of a visit +to Drumlanrig before or after an intended visit there of the Prince and +Princess of Wales. Decided on going there the latter end of next month. + +[Sidenote: Drumlanrig, Oct. 25.] + +By train to Carlisle and thence to Thornhill, where we found the Duke’s +carriage, which took us to the castle by a little after six. Nothing +could have been nicer or kinder than our reception, company staying +being nearly all connections. I took the Duchess in to dinner. Party +consisting of Dalkeiths, Adolphus Liddell, son and two daughters, +Walter Scotts, Egremont and Gerard Lascelles, and, as the _Morning +Post_ would say, “etc., etc.” + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +Party formed for the moors. Nine guns--Dalkeith, Walter Scott, +Adolphus Liddell and his son, two Lascelles, Colonel Thynne, who +arrived last night, Johnson Douglas, and Mr. Maxwell. A bus conveyed +us to foot of hills; four ponies for those who liked them took us +two miles further to the grounds. A succession of hills covered with +heather; with the exception of the hills near Thirlston, the first +extensive moors I had been on. We drew lots for the numbers, which +gave us the different enclosures, in which we hid while beaters drove: +changing numbers after each drive. Lord and Lady Creighton arrived. +Game return: Grouse, 137; Black and gray game, 8; Rabbits, 4. Total, +149. + +[Illustration: _Duke of Buccleuch._] + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Invitation from Mayor of Liverpool to attend dinner given to Sir Harry +Parkes. Must accept, for November 6. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +Rainy day. Started, a smaller party, on the moors; persevered until wet +through, then walked five miles home. Shot better, and killed my first +black-cock. + +After noon arrived Lord Claud Hamilton and Mr. R. Melville, a director +of the P. and O. Co. Our usual whist in evening; party consisting of +Lady Walter Scott, Lady Dalkeith, Adolphus Liddell and self. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +Attended well-conducted service in chapel. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +Covert shooting without driving. A cheery bright day. Bag: Gray fowl, +6; Pheasant, 70; Partridge, 7; Wood-cock, 3; Roe deer, 2; Hares, 247; +Rabbits, 66; Snipe, 1. Total, 402. + +After dinner, entrance hall cleared, and a piano dance, I commencing +with the kind good Duchess, His Grace with my wife for partner. There +were waltzes and reels. No people, old or young, could have enjoyed +themselves as we did. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 3.] + +The Duke kindly sending us to the station, made us promise to repeat +our visit as often as we liked. By train _viâ_ Carlisle to Liverpool, +where the Mayor, Mr. Livingston, was waiting, and conveyed us to his +country house. + +[Sidenote: Liverpool, Nov. 6.] + +The great event of my visit to Liverpool came off to-day. Mayor’s +dinner to Sir Harry Parkes. Had to return thanks for Navy and +self. Parkes spoke well, giving a review of affairs in Japan, +from commencement of his appointment there to present time; very +interesting. No one ever did more brilliant work in Japan than he did. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Since the middle of the month grave reports of the health of the Prince +of Wales were inserted in the papers. H.R.H. had been at Scarborough +with Lord Londesborough. With him was Lord Chesterfield, who, +simultaneously with the Prince and the groom, were attacked by typhoid +fever; of the three, H.R.H. alone survived. + +Princess Alice had come over to spend his birthday with the Prince, and +remained to help the Princess in nursing H.R.H., who had left London, +in the early stage of his illness, for Sandringham. On the 30th I +received a letter from the Duke of Edinburgh, at Sandringham, saying +he was delighted to give better accounts of his brother. The Queen had +just arrived at Sandringham. + +[Sidenote: Dec.] + +The news was better of H.R.H. up to the 11th December, when a relapse +took place, and his state was considered critical. Constant delirium. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11, Journal.] + +All hope supposed to be at an end. How sad for the nation; what a kind +friend I lose. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +Uppermost in every person’s mind is the state of the Prince of Wales. +Prayers in the churches for him, and for the Princess. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Hopes revived by telegram of improved state of the Prince. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 15.] + +Afternoon telegram confirming improving state of the Prince. Fatal 14th +past. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 19.] + +Continued improvement of H.R.H. Had a chat with the Duke of Edinburgh +at Clarence House. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +Wrote General Knollys, congratulations to Prince and Princess of Wales +on recovery of H.R.H. + +[Sidenote: 1872. London, Feb. 17.] + +Fully accoutred in uniform, and the G.C.B. collar, at an early hour to +witness the grandest function that has been performed in the largest +city of the world, friend Eyre taking me in his brougham. Not liking to +risk being late gave up the sight of the route by Strand and Ludgate +Hill, but took the less crowded road of new embankment. + +Seats allotted to the officers of the Navy being the north nave, St. +Paul’s Cathedral, was in time to get in the front row and could hardly +have been better placed to witness the touching scene of the Queen on +the arm of the still limping Prince of Wales, closely attended by the +young children and all the rest of the Royal Family. Both the Prince +and Duke of Edinburgh recognised me as they passed. Thanksgiving +service most impressive: the whole ceremony being a grand success. +Queen, on returning by a different route, enabled thousands of others +to show their loyalty and affection. Attended evening party, Admiralty +House, meeting Duke of Edinburgh. + +[Sidenote: 1872. Feb. 28.] + +Wrote name in Prince of Wales’ book. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 27.] + +This morning’s post brought letter from Mr. Goschen, announcing his +intention of submitting my name to Her Majesty for the command at +Devonport. Announced the glad tidings to Prince of Wales and Susan +Albemarle. + +[Sidenote: Devonport, Nov. 1.] + +Flag hoisted at Devonport. Heard the salutes while dressing. Donned the +old uniform that had last done duty in China. + +[Sidenote: Sunday, Dec. 1.] + +On my way from church I met the Duke of Grafton in sad distress. His +Grace, with his invalid Duchess, had arrived the previous evening at +Lord Mount Edgcumbe’s winter villa, situated by the sea, but sheltered +from everything but the sun. + +Her Grace, who had retired early, was off in the first quiet sleep she +had enjoyed for months, when she was thrown into violent hysterics +by the discharge of cannon in quick succession--one, of course, the +military evening gun, but the loudest was the Admiral’s. It was Sunday. +Their Graces could not get away; another such discharge, he believed, +would kill his wife--a repetition was not to be thought of; if I could +put a stop to the daylight gun; and I had no doubt my friend Sir +Charles Staveley would stop the military one. By early morning the Duke +and Duchess were out of hearing. + +Now there was a factory within hearing, whose workmen went in on the +firing of the Admiral’s gun. The factor, instead of coming to me to +explain, reported direct to the Admiralty. I received an order not to +omit the usual daylight gun. On foreign stations daylight is not “made” +until the event is first reported to the Admiral. Communicated with my +Flag-Captain Heneage. Daylight was “made” at very irregular times. I +heard no more from the factor! + +[Sidenote: 1875.] + +My sailor’s life has come to an end: my land one must shortly. To +describe all the hospitalities and fun I enjoyed during the command +at Devonport, and the three-and-twenty years that have elapsed since +the flag was hauled down for the last time, would fill many volumes. +I have only space to mention the names of some who were kind to me +during the latter part of my sailor’s life. First comes the Earl of +Mount Edgcumbe, whose kind hospitality and the run of whose beautiful +grounds caused time to pass only too quickly. Lord St. Germans of +Port Elliot: I remember the first time I had the pleasure of shooting +over his beautiful covert of hanging woods. Charlie Edgcumbe told me +the keeper was anxious to see my ammunition. My predecessor had used +ball cartridges from his ship’s magazine to the danger of beaters. At +Helligon, was my good friend Tremayne. + +Saltram was occupied by the kind and hospitable Hartmanns. He, alas! +no more. They had frequently with them the Marquis de Jeancourt, who +once kept a stud at Melton Mowbray, the handsome Marquise charming, +and so like her sister, the hostess. The Master of Hounds when I first +arrived was Mr. Trelawney, the finest specimen of a sportsman I ever +saw; of him there are published descriptions. I attended the opening +and finishing of his hunt dinners. He was succeeded by Admiral Parker +of Delamore, whose two cheery daughters frequently led the field. + +Some eight miles from the dockyard residence was the ever cheery and +sporting Johnnie Bulteel, with his pretty wife and large family; when +all together it was difficult to say which was mother. In another +direction, at Maristow, a beautiful place, was Sir Massey Lopes, with +a lovely wife, to whom I was “Uncle Harry.” Nearer to the harbour was +Pole Carew of Antony, now represented by Colonel Carew, C.B., of the +Coldstream Guards. Colonel Coryton, a good and hospitable sportsman, +had a beautiful castle, Pentillie, on the banks of the river, to which +his good sister has succeeded. + +Lady Ernestine Edgcumbe is now sole occupant of Cotehele, St. Mellion, +Cornwall: the same as it was three hundred years ago. All these western +landowners preserved as well as game. + +On a visit to Warnham Court to my friend Lucas, I was taken by one of +his younger sons to see their sheep. On our way I noticed a lark’s +nest, hardly discernible in the grass. Something presently caused a +stampede. The flock, apparently a thousand, took to its heels and +trotted along the park we had just traversed. I was alarmed for the +fate of the lark and her eggs, and expressed my fears to Lucas. + +“Oh!” he said. “I don’t mind betting you a fiver that not a foot has +even touched the edge of the nest. Come and see.” + +We went back. It was as he said. Though the footprints were within half +an inch of it, the nest was undisturbed. A lesson to me of the Power +which guides the instinct of animals to preserve smaller creatures from +harm. + +[Sidenote: 1876. May 11. Return of Prince of Wales from India.] + +Telegram--_Serapis_, with royal standard, passed Portland, 8 A.M. To +station to meet Waterfords and Dowager Lady: breakfasted at Government +House, Portsmouth. Some 8000 troops to line streets and form guards. +Our party admitted into dockyard by tickets. Progress of _Serapis_ +imposing towards the end; salutes, ships dressed and yards manned. As +soon as _Serapis_ secured alongside dockyard we went on board. Duke of +Cambridge there. Nothing could exceed the kind and cordial reception I +got from H.R.H., as well as from the most charming of Princesses, she +looking so happy. Returned to London by Royal Express. Dined with Duke +of Grafton, meeting Strathnairn, Barrington, Jim Ryley, and Ashburton. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +While at Torquay seized with some internal disarrangement. Wife in +a fright. Doctor Pollard sent for. Two visits within two hours. +Chloroform and laudanum, morphine and other poisons. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +My birthday. Miss glorious Ascot. H.R.H. expected. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +An interview with the great Sir William Gull. Was bundled off to Vichy, +where I met Lord Chesham, whose daughter had married Leicester. Had +been there before and knew how the ropes led. Never enjoyed myself so +much. We messed together; he had a charming Newfoundland dog. Chesham a +general favourite. Frenchmen named them “Urbanité et Fidelité.” + +We had mountain strawberries and cream for breakfast. With baths, never +was better, but determined not to leave my playfellow. It was July 16 +before I got to London. The next day was invited to a breakfast at +Chiswick by the Prince and Princess of Wales; everybody there: Emperor +of Morocco, King and Queen of Greece; all so kind to me. + +While staying with Sir William Medlycott at Ven Hall received a kind +letter from the Duke of Abercorn inviting me to join his suite in the +mission to confer the Order of the Garter on the King of Italy: nothing +could be nicer. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 8.] + +Meet of the Blackmoor Vale hounds. Digbys, Glynns, and many friends. +Country heavy from rain. Soon found; large field. We came to a stiffish +fence with but one gap, which I left to the fair sex. Noticed an +opening at the bottom, which proved to be a long-unused road covered +with long grass. Where there had been a gate were now heavy bars, which +I charged. + +Although I broke the upper bar, came down the heaviest cropper I ever +experienced. Horse by my side in similar position, but clear of me. +How long we had been there I know not, but friend Digby, who knew the +country well, had followed the marks of a horse to the corner. He found +horse and self as quiet as if we had been shot in action. + +I know not how he got me back to Ven Hall; it was the nearest, though +I had that day been engaged to Minterne. My old coxswain Webb was sent +for. It was eight days before I could be moved to London. All hopes of +attending the Duke of Abercorn gone. Nothing ordered but quiet. Was +conveyed to Haslar Hospital, where I certainly secured that for a few +months. + +[Sidenote: April 30.] + +The _Eurydice_ training ship was lost in a snow squall off the Isle +of Wight on March 24 with all hands except two boys. While propped +up in my bed in the hospital, a regular installed patient--for how +long?--bodies from _Eurydice_ were constantly being washed up, and +funerals with the grand and sad Dead March in “Saul” were of daily +occurrence; passing under my window. With the exception of a few days +yachting I did not leave Haslar until early in August. + +Space only, forbids my recalling later incidents, which are, however, +unconnected with my sailor’s life. + + * * * * * + +The last word must be written. + +[Illustration: Farewell!] + + + + +INDEX + + + Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. 333 + + Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. 72 + + Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148 + Sir Charles, ii. 46 + + Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. 55 + + Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246 + + Aden, iii. 118, 119 + + Admiralty Islands, ii. 150 + + _Adventure_, iii. 174, 180 + + _Africa_, i. 7, 12, 13 + + Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201 + + Ailesbury, Lady, iii. 322 + + Ainos, the, iii. 199 + + Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. 235 + + _Alabama_, iii. 83 + + Åland Islands, ii. 232 + + Albany, ii. 142 + + _Albatross_, ii. 81, 127 + + Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59 + William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, 248, 249, 251, + 252, 253, 254, 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58 + Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; _see_ Keppel + George Thomas, 6th Earl; _see_ Keppel + Lord, i. 14 + + Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324; + iii. 38, 39, 78, 80 + + Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. 143, 171, 192, 194, 236, 237, 259 + + Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. 18, 117 + + Alfred, Prince; _see_ Edinburgh, Duke of + + _Algerine_, iii. 224 + + Algoa Bay, iii. 46 + + Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84 + + Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. 125 + + Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190 + + Allen, R. C., ii. 3 + + _Alligator_, ii. 337; iii. 2, 8 + + Allison, William, ii. 160 + + Alma, the, ii. 240 + + Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121 + + _Amazon_, ii. 115 + + Amboyna, ii. 147 + + _America_ yacht, ii. 203 + + Amoor River, iii. 192, 210 + + Amoy, iii. 138, 139, 220 + + _Amphion_, ii. 47, 234 + + Amping, iii. 224 + + Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255 + + Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42 + + Anjer, ii. 129 + + Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12 + Thomas, i. 7, 163 + Hon. William, i. 8, 22 + + Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273 + + Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. 69 + + Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222 + + Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14 + + Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46 + + Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171 + + _Auckland_, ii. 77, 79 + + _Aurora_, i. 14, 43, 44, 61 + + Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152 + + _Australia_, ii. 128, 129 + + + Bahia; _see_ San Salvador + + Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. 320 + Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123 + + Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262 + + Balambangan, ii. 94, 127 + + Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81 + + Bali Island, ii. 131 + + Baltic, the, ii. 220 + + Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146 + + Bankok, iii. 229 + + Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243 + + Barbadoes, i. 56, 108 + + Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200 + + Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201 + + Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279 + + Barösund, ii. 226 + + Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51 + + Barton, A., ii. 3 + + _Basilisk_, iii. 192 + + Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2 + + Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131 + + Bathurst, iii. 72 + + Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171 + + Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 36 + + Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201 + + Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139 + + Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97 + + Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3 + + Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18 + + Belem, ii. 213 + + Bell, Admiral, iii. 177 + + _Belleisle_, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277 + + _Bellerophon_, i. 200 + + Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. 101, 109; + _see_ Cavendish-Bentinck + + Beresford, Lord James, i. 187 + Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121 + + Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163 + Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163 + Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. 29 + + Bessani; _see_ Grand Bessani + + “Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70 + + _Bittern_, iii. 1 + + Black Sea, ii. 251 + + Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199 + + Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44 + Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88 + + Blakiston, Captain, iii. 238 + + Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123 + + Bogue Forts, ii. 54 + + Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238 + + Bombay, iii. 14 + + Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177 + + Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288 + + Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. 127 + + Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164 + + Boto Fogo, i. 36 + + Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278 + + _Bouncer_, iii. 234 + + Bourbon, i. 85 + + Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244 + + Bowles, Admiral, iii. 281 + + Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177 + + Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262 + + Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157 + + Bozin, Prince, iii. 180, 181 + + Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227 + + Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162 + + _Brazen_, i. 41, 42, 97 + + Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134 + + Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210 + + Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168 + + _Brisk_, iii. 45 + + Brooke, Brooke, iii. 11 + Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, 312, 313, 317, 319, + 333, 339; ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, + 62, 63, 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127, + 202, 322, 334; iii. 11, 13, 29, 96, 115, 123, 220 + + Brooker, Commander, iii. 194, 260 + + Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97 + Lord, i. 11, 177 + + Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. 25 + + Broughton, Lord, i. 97 + + Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45 + + Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. 126 + + Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. 326 + + Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. 82 + + Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. 40 + + Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84 + + Buffalo River, iii. 46 + + Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210 + + Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42 + + Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55 + + Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263 + + Bunting, ii. 21 + + Buonaparte; _see_ Napoleon + + Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14 + + Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. 115, 124 + + Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. 56 + + Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122 + + Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71 + + Bury, Viscount, i. 254 + + Bush, Commander, iii. 221 + Mr., ii. 116 + + Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76 + + Byng, H., ii. 48 + + Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43 + + + Cabrera, General, i. 188 + + Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111 + + Cairo, iii. 18 + + Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334 + + _Calcutta_, iii. 3 + + Calderon, Don, i. 195 + + _Caledonia_, i. 168, 170, 200 + + Calverley, S., ii. 3 + + _Cambrian_, ii. 46 + + Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. 25, 322 + + Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, 301 + Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244 + + Canning, George, i. 25 + + _Canopus_, i. 169, 170, 171, 176 + + Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267 + + Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. 132, 231 + River, ii. 15; iii. 8 + + Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221 + + Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71 + + Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, 159, 202, 262 + + Cape Town, iii. 67 + + Caroline, Queen, i. 8 + + Carteret, Captain, ii. 152 + + Carthagena, i. 59, 198 + + Casher, E., ii. 55, 199 + + Castries Bay, iii. 214 + + Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153 + + Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125 + + Celebes Islands, ii. 108 + + Ceram Islands, ii. 146 + + Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339 + + Challier, Commodore, iii. 274 + + Charlotte, Princess, i. 6 + + Chefoo, iii. 172, 192, 264 + + Chernaze, ii. 263 + + Chersonese; _see_ Khersonese + + Chesterfield, Lord, iii. 328 + + Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271 + + _Childers_, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, 198, 244, 272, 274 + + Chin-kiang, iii. 221, 238 + + Christmas Island, ii. 75 + + Church, Thomas, ii. 77 + + Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, 280 + + Chusan, i. 266, 277 + + Ciervo Island, ii. 188 + + Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68 + + Clarendon, Lord, iii. 265 + + Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143 + + Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84 + Lady de, i. 52 + + _Clio_, i. 190, 191, 272 + + Clyde, Lord; _see_ Campbell, Sir Colin + + Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53 + + Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136 + + Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27 + Admiral Sir Thomas; _see_ Dundonald (“Young”), iii. 4 + + _Cockchafer_, iii. 187, 233 + + Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68 + Colonel, ii. 46 + + Coghlan, Colonel, iii. 118 + + Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201 + Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. 19 + Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, 278 + + Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83 + Lady Frances, i. 78 + + Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; ii. 47, 82, + 128 + + Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13 + + _Colombo_, ii. 270 + + Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195 + + _Colossus_, ii. 312 + + _Columbine_, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; ii. 116 + + Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48 + Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87 + + Comba Island, ii. 132 + + Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, 125, 128 + + Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73 + + Conolly, Mr., iii. 143, 192 + + Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312 + + Conti, General, i. 189 + + Cook, Captain, ii. 153 + + Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105 + + Cook’s Straits, ii. 169 + + Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49 + + _Cormorant_, ii. 199; iii. 139 + + _Cornwallis_, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331 + + Corromanli, Ali, i. 172 + Youssuf, i. 171 + + Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231 + + Corvé Bay, iii. 173, 191 + + Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105 + + Courtenay, Captain, iii. 198 + + Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208 + + Creighton, Captain, iii. 187 + + Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244 + + Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105 + + Crosbie, Catherine; _see_ Lady Keppel + General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253, 255; ii. 27 + “Dob,” iii. 145 + Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251 + William, ii. 55 + + _Cumberland_, ii. 235; iii. 115 + + Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. 76 + + _Cygnet_, ii. 40 + + + D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289 + + Dalarö Channel, ii. 224 + + Dalkeith, Lord, iii. 326 + + Daniell, Commander, ii. 127 + + Darby, G. S., ii. 3 + + Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249 + + _Dauntless_, ii. 230, 231 + + Davis, Sir John, ii. 111 + + de Grey, Lord, iii. 322 + + de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. 44, 45, 55 + + Delagoa Bay, iii. 46 + + De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. 118 + + Delmé, George, i. 81 + + Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163 + + Dent, John, and Co., iii. 143 + + Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228 + + D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73 + + _Dido_, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii. + 1, 29, 30 + + Digby, Lord, i. 12 + Edward, i. 12, 98 + Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219 + Admiral Hon. R., i. 12 + + D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. 230 + + Dixcove, i. 213-215 + + D’Orsay, Count, i. 163. + + Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304 + + Dover, Lord, ii. 201 + + Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185 + + Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28 + + Drummond, Edward, ii. 26 + + Duè, iii. 215 + + Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119 + Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201 + Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244 + + Dundee, iii. 111 + + Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, 278, 280, 322, 331; + ii. 68, 212 + + Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77 + + _Dupleix_, iii. 186, 187, 227 + + Dupplin, Lord, iii. 323 + + + Eager, John, ii. 7 + + Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115 + + Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127 + + East London, Port of, iii. 46 + + Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47 + + Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. 40, 278, 284-315 + + _Edinburgh_, i. 169, 170 + + Elgin, Lord, iii. 10, 241 + + Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191 + + Ellice, Robert, ii. 116 + + Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127 + + Ellis and Co., iii. 223 + + Elphinstone, Lord, iii. 14 + + Emhammud, i. 172 + + Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. 323 + + Emot, Captain, iii. 177 + + _Endymion_, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, 278 + + Enslie, Consul, iii. 298 + + Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164 + + Esche, Mr., iii. 194, 202 + + _Espoir_, i. 68, 69, 77, 86 + + Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144 + + Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. 218 + + Eupatoria, ii. 261 + + Europa Island, iii. 50 + + Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260 + + Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278 + + + Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195 + + Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127 + + Fatshan Creek, iii. 2 + + Fernando Po, i. 223, 224 + + Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225 + + Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107 + + _Firebrand_, ii. 73 + + _Firm_, iii. 177 + + _Firmee_, iii. 9 + + Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87 + Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. 70 + Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303 + Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164 + George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. 192, 205 + Mary, ii. 40, 153 + + Flowers, Consul, iii. 301 + + Foley, St. George, ii. 310 + Sir George, iii. 9 + + Foochow, iii. 236 + + Ford, Captain, i. 148 + + Formosa, iii. 222, 223 + + _Forte_, iii. 39, 41, 65, 77 + + Fukevitche, Captain, iii. 206 + + Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. 41 + + Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. 194, 195, 206, 208, 212 + + _Fury_, ii. 115, 128 + + + Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52 + + _Galatea_, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. 284, 299, 302 + + Galle; _see_ Point de Galle + + Gambia River, iii. 71 + + Garibaldi, iii. 83 + + Garnier, George, i. 16, 19 + Henry, i. 148, 159 + Lieutenant Keppel, iii. 190, 231 + Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103 + Thomas, iii. 324 + William, i. 15 + + _Gazelle_, ii. 185, 187 + + Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116 + + George IV., King, i. 74, 102 + + Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, 201; ii. 217, 248 + + Gibson, Consul, iii. 224, 226 + + Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. 1, 20 + + Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104 + + Gleichen, Count, iii. 25 + + Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, 222, 249; + ii. 68 + + Goodwood, ii. 55 + + Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57 + General C. G., iii. 245 + + Goschen, Mr., iii. 326 + + Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273 + + Gouldisborough, iii. 182 + + Gower, Consul, iii. 299 + + Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59 + Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256 + Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. 1, 3 + + Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. 227 + + Grand Bessani, i. 212 + + Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. 41, 46 + Charles, iii. 11 + Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333 + + Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77 + + Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. 45, + 78 + Sir George, iii. 40, 41, 45, 78, 79 + Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22 + Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249 + + Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. 224, 225, 226 + + Guyamas, ii. 190, 191 + + Gye, Frederick, iii. 25 + Lieutenant Herbert, iii. 235 + + + Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31 + + Hakodadi, iii. 159, 161, 219 + + Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. 1 + + Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57 + + Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. 327 + Kerr Baillie, i. 82 + + Hankow, iii. 243, 249 + + Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. 182 + + Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81 + + Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164 + + _Harlequin_, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, 274, 322, 333 + + Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. 194 + + _Hartford_, iii. 183 + + Hartington, Lord, iii. 322 + + Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. 40 + + Hastie, ii. 47 + + _Hastings_, ii. 128 + + Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44 + + Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118 + + Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249 + Lady; _see_ Sara Crosbie + + Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116 + + Hayti, i. 61 + + Heki Hone, ii. 171 + + Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232 + + Heneage, Admiral, i. 102 + Captain Algernon C. F., iii. 70, 115, 222, 223, 316 + + Henessey, Pope, iii. 230 + + Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264 + + Hewitt, Captain, iii. 192, 283 + + Hickley, Captain, iii. 174 + + _Highflyer_, iii. 8 + + Hill, Colonel, i. 66 + Dr., iii. 192, 231 + Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258 + Lieutenant, i. 228, 232 + Lady Georgina; _see_ Keppel + + Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231 + + Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68 + + _Hind_, i. 168, 176, 180, 200 + + Hiogo, iii. 173, 174, 180, 187, 188 + + Hirado Strait, iii. 194 + + Hislop, James, i. 71 + + Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160 + + Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47 + + Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61 + + Hodgson, General, iii. 119 + + Hogarth, i. 96 + + Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. 18 + + Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. 85 + Henry, Lord, i. 1 + + Holman, Joseph, i. 85 + + Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129 + + Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277 + + Honeywood, W. P., i. 97 + + Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, 337; ii. 113-115; + iii. 9, 113, 129, 172, 180, 186, 220, 231, 234, 311 + + _Hong-Kong_, iii. 1, 2, 4, 8 + + Hooghly River, i. 155 + + Hook, Theodore, i. 121 + + Hope, Captain, ii. 73 + + Hornby, Sir E., iii. 296 + James G. P., i. 22 + Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131 + + Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. 44, 45-55 + + Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297, + 312-316, 325; ii. 40, 256 + + Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42 + + Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199 + + Howden, Lord, ii. 73 + + Hughes, Colonel, i. 93 + + Hume, David, ii. 44, 63 + + Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, 168 + + Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239 + + Huntingfield, Lord, iii. 323 + + Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95 + + Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200 + + _Hydra_, ii. 65 + + + Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147 + + _Icarus_, iii. 170, 222 + + Ichaboa Island, iii. 68 + + Illanuns, the, i. 294 + + _Inconstant_, ii. 181 + + India, ii. 62 + + _Inflexible_, ii. 115 + + Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187 + Lady Sarah, i. 187 + + Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76 + + Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53 + + Inkerman, ii. 259, 280 + + + Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21 + + Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79 + + Java, ii. 131 + + Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3 + + Jephson, Dr., i. 253 + + Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63 + + “John Company,” i. 133, 134 + + Johnson, C., ii. 3 + Lieutenant W. F., iii. 1 + + Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. 122 + + Joinville, Prince de, i. 201 + + Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284 + + Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. 129, 220 + + Jonos, the, iii. 165 + + + Kaga, Prince, iii. 169 + + Kalamanta Bay, i. 180 + + Kapiti Island, ii. 171 + + Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176 + + Karangan, ii. 16 + + Kazatch, ii. 262, 266 + + Kearney, Major, iii. 2 + + _Kearsage_, iii. 83 + + Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. 310 + + Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54 + + Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. 36 + + KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:-- + Birth, i. 1 + Christening, i. 1 + School-days, i. 2-5 + Choice of a career, i. 7 + Preparation for the Navy, i. 14 + Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16 + First voyage, i. 27 + Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249 + Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. 80 + Appointments in H.M. Navy-- + Midshipman, i. 25 + Mate, i. 79 + Lieutenant, i. 86 + Commander, i. 158 + Commodore, ii. 322 + Admiral, iii. 15 + Ships:-- + _Childers_, i. 164 + _Colossus_, ii. 312 + _Cumberland_, iii. 115 + _Dido_, i. 255 + _Forte_, iii. 39 + _Galatea_, i. 100 + _Magicienne_, i. 119 + _Mæander_, ii. 58 + _Manilla_, iii. 143 + _Pearl_, iii. 135 + _Pelorus_, iii. 144 + _Princess Charlotte_, iii. 130, 172 + _Raleigh_, ii. 324 + _Rattler_, iii. 143 + _Rodney_, ii. 276; iii. 173 + _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208 + _Tweed_, i. 25, 66 + Naval stations commanded by:-- + The Cape, iii. 39 + China, iii. 113 + Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284 + Devonport, iii. 330 + S.E. America, iii. 71 + Straits Settlements, ii. 77 + Honours:-- + C.B., ii. 314 + K.C.B., iii. 15 + G.C.B., iii. 326 + D.C.L. Oxford, iii. 324-326 + + KEPPEL, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, 57, + 88, 202, 207, 208, 328; iii. 18, 35 + + KEPPEL, Lady (Jane West), iii. 80, 95, 114, 230 + Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23 + Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326 + Augustus Frederick, i. 254 + Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. 80, 95, 116, 230, 231, 273 + Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. 19 + Frances, i. 254 + George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; ii. 59, 61 + Georgina, i. 66 + Leicester, ii. 61, 69 + Maria Walpole, iii. 98, 230, 275 + Mary, i. 1, 66, 93 + Sophia, i. 4 + Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50, + 81 + William, General, i. 59 + family of, i. 7 + + KEPPEL; _see_ Albemarle + + Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272 + + Khersonese, ii. 258, 263 + + Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. 229 + + Kiel Harbour, ii. 240 + + King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67 + Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. 113, 114, 121 + Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169 + + Kingsley, Charles, iii. 114 + + Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60 + + Kinmel, i. 93, 162 + + Kissang River, i. 135 + + Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. 323 + + Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124 + + Kobe, iii. 298 + + Korbé; _see_ Corvé + + Korea, iii. 194 + + Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171 + + Korsakof, General, iii. 195, 208 + + Kronstadt, ii. 230 + + Kuching; _see_ Sarawak + + Kung, the Prince of, iii. 226 + + + Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, 127; iii. 126, 230 + + Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242 + + Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211 + + Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54 + + Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144 + + Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221 + + Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59 + + Lante Bay, i. 170 + + _La Place_, iii. 162, 177 + + Lawrence, Captain, i. 182 + + Leicester, Earl of; _see_ Coke, Thomas William + Countess of; _see_ Hon. Anne Keppel + + Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. 324 + + Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55 + + Le Marchant, Major, i. 75 + + Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45 + + Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. 36 + + Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189 + + Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. 118 + + _Leven_, iii. 234 + + Lexham Hall, i. 7 + + Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162 + + Li Hung Chang, iii. 245 + + Lima, General, i. 41 + + Linga River, ii. 2, 19 + + Lingghi River, i. 135 + + Linn, Mandarin, i. 264 + + Lisbon, i. 103, 184 + + Lissa, i. 22 + + Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. 67 + + Lloyd, Mr., i. 125 + Lieutenant, iii. 235 + + Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, 272 + + Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116 + + _London_, iii. 110 + + Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17 + + Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76 + + Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 38 + + Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230 + + Lowe, Robert, iii. 325 + + Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14 + + Lupar River, ii. 6 + + Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148 + + Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215 + + Lyemoon Pass, iii. 182 + + Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54 + + Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267 + + + Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. 1, 8, 9, 130, 222 + + M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144 + + M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. 8 + + Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. 323 + + MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. 129, 231 + + Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61 + + Macota, ii. 20 + + _Madagascar_, i. 165, 170 + + Madeira; _see_ Funchal Roads + + Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158 + + Madrid, i. 186 + + Madura, ii. 131 + + _Mæander_, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, 155, 200, 201 + + Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199 + + _Magicienne_, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200 + + Magin, Captain, iii. 1 + + Mahé, Port, iii. 63 + + Mahébourg, iii. 63 + + Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167 + + _Malabar_, i. 169, 171, 183, 184 + + Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334 + + Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196 + + Malakoff, ii. 274 + + Malanga, ii. 172 + + Maldanado Roads, i. 43 + + Mallewali, ii. 96 + + Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17 + + Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. 117 + + Mambahennan, ii. 100 + + Mamelon, ii. 273 + + Manao, iii. 169 + + Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. 322, 323 + + Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. 230 + + Maratabu River, ii. 23 + + _Mariner_, ii. 77 + + Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326 + + Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249 + + Marseilles, i. 222 + + Martin, Admiral, ii. 239 + Captain George, i. 169 + Surgeon William, i. 75 + + Matapan, Cape, i. 180 + + Mataxa, Count, iii. 99 + + Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78 + + Maul, Fox; _see_ Panmure, Lord + + Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. 63 + + Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. 317 + + Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. 223 + + Mayatchni Island, iii. 195 + + Maynard family, the, i. 164 + + Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188 + + _Medea_, ii. 116 + + Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. 221, 239 + + _Medusa_, i. 266, 274 + + Melville Island, ii. 134 + + Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94 + + Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240 + + Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64 + Gulf of, i. 57 + + Meyerbeer, iii. 25 + + Miako, iii. 174, 175, 180 + + Michi, Mr., iii. 238 + + Mikado, the, iii. 190, 290 + + Millett family, the, i. 253 + + Milo, i. 68, 176 + + Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196 + Doña, i. 196 + + Ming Tombs, the, iii. 172 + + Minorca, i. 14 + + Minto, Lord, i. 255 + + Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. 286 + + Mitford, Bertram, iii. 268, 286, 290 + + _Modeste_, i. 243, 277 + + Moluccas Islands, ii. 147 + + Montagu, Oliver, iii. 323 + + Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205 + + Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195 + + Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260 + General Sir John, i. 260 + + Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285 + + Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146 + River, i. 135; ii. 24 + + Moriataba River, i. 295 + + Mozambique Harbour, iii. 55 + + Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, 339; ii. 42, 84 + + Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6 + + Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172 + + Murrundum Island, i. 294 + + Musemberg, i. 73 + + + Nagasaki, iii. 144, 145, 170, 191, 192, 220, 300 + + Najassi, iii. 201 + + Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6 + + Nanbu Harbour, iii. 158 + + Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285 + + Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. 239 + + Nankow, iii. 172 + + Nanning, i. 134, 135 + + Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167, + 247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228 + William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87 + + Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253 + + Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71 + + Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70 + + Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297 + + Navarino, i. 68 + + Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15 + Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267 + + New Guinea, ii. 148 + + Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276 + + New Spain, i. 64 + + New Zealand, ii. 152, 169 + + Nicholai, iii. 192, 206 + + Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258 + + Nicholson, Port, ii. 169 + + Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284 + + Nigata, iii. 167 + + Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251 + + Ning Po, i. 279 + + Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257 + + Nogueras, General, i. 188 + + Norfolk Island, ii. 165 + + Norman, Colonel, iii. 296 + + Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289 + + Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49 + + Norton, Mrs., i. 260 + + Nova Scotia, i. 52 + + Novogorod Harbour, iii. 194 + + Nwajima, Prince, iii. 293 + + + _Ocean_, iii. 179, 277 + + O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192 + + Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. 180, 227 + + Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59 + + Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209 + + Onrust Island, ii. 130 + + Ord, Sir Henry, iii. 316 + + _Orestes_, i. 180, 197, 200 + + Orizaba Mountain, i. 62 + + Osaka, iii. 174, 179, 180, 186, 190, 220, 298 + + Osmond, John, i. 84 + + Otho, King of Greece, i. 179 + + Ou-teng-foi, iii. 235, 236 + + Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128 + + + Paddi, town, i. 317 + + Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94 + Clarence, ii. 264 + + Pakington, Sir John, iii. 113 + + Pakoo, i. 318 + + Palmas, Cape, i. 211 + + Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. 28, 29, 32, 100 + + Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. 15-17 + + Papua, ii. 148 + + Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281 + Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, 266, + 271, 272, 273, 278, 325; ii. 27, 31 + + Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. 148, 150, 168, 169, 174, 179, + 181, 187, 188, 273, 297, 328 + + Paros, i. 179 + + Parseval Deschênes; _see_ Deschênes + + Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49 + + Partridge, C., ii. 61 + + Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67 + + Patingi, Ali, ii. 7 + + Patterson, Admiral, i. 52 + Charles, i. 52 + + Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5 + + Pechell, Captain, ii. 299 + + Peck, Henry and George, i. 73 + + Pedro, Don, i. 40 + + Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335 + + Peiho River, iii. 171 + + Peking, i. 81; iii. 144, 171, 259 + + Pelham, Dudley, i. 166 + + _Pelican_, i. 226, 231, 242, 277 + + Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43 + + Pelorus, ii. 144 + + Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. 14, 120, 229, 318 + + _Penelope_, iii. 283 + + Penguin Island, i. 203, 208 + + Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199 + + Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176 + + Perim, iii. 118, 119 + + Pernambuco, i. 41, 42 + + Perote, i. 64 + + Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135 + + _Perseus_, iii. 234 + + Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. 208 + + Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100 + + Pfingsten, Major, iii. 195 + + _Phlegethon_, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234 + + _Piraeus_, the, i. 178 + + Plampin, Admiral, i. 48 + + Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. 130 + + _Plymouth_, ii. 121 + + Point de Galle, iii. 14, 119, 318 + + Po-leng, iii. 235 + + Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79 + + Pomony, iii. 56 + + Pontranini, ii. 20 + + Poore, Sir E., ii. 41 + + Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243 + + Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236 + + Porchester Castle, i. 52 + + Porirua, Cape, ii. 171 + + Port-au-Prince, i. 61 + + Portendick, i. 202 + + Porter, Captain, i. 98 + + Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153 + + _Portland_, i. 178, 180 + + Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85 + + Port Mahon, i. 194 + + Port Nicholson, ii. 171 + + Porto Praya, i. 69, 204 + + Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113 + + Posietta Bay, iii. 194 + + Potoo, i. 278 + + Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322 + Major, i. 327 + + Price, Captain David, i. 178 + + Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73 + + _Princess Charlotte_, i. 52; iii. 129, 130, 220 + + Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244 + + Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. 114, 121 + + Province Wellesley, i. 283 + + Pulo Sabu, i. 288 + + + Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. 40 + + Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65 + + Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23 + + Quitta, i. 235, 240 + + + Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76 + + Raffles Bay, ii. 134 + + Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275 + + _Raleigh_, ii. 324, 336; iii. 2, 8 + + Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235 + + _Ranee_, ii. 86 + + Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196 + + _Rattler_, iii. 190, 227 + + _Rattlesnake_, ii. 153 + + Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72 + W. H., i. 289; iii. 317 + Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. 177 + + Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304 + + _Revenge_, i. 200 + + Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199 + + Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277 + family, the, i. 248 + + Rich, Henry, i. 96 + + Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253 + Duchess of, i. 72 + + Rigby, Colonel, iii. 62, 63 + + _Rinaldo_, iii. 187, 221, 222, 234 + + Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; iii. 42, 75 + + Rio de la Plata, i. 43 + + Risk, W. B., iii. 145 + + Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47 + + Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180 + + Robinson, Commander, iii. 221 + Sir Hercules, iii. 319 + + Roches, M., iii. 174, 180, 188 + + _Rodney_, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; ii. 276, 304; iii. 173, + 177, 180, 222, 247, 276, 323, 324 + + Rodyk, Jack, iii. 318 + + Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45 + + Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255 + + Romney family, the, i. 257 + + Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. 14 + + Rosebery, Lord, i. 7 + + Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117 + + Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. 187 + + Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. 20 + + Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27 + Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, 247; ii. 39 + Josias (junior), i. 261 + Admiral Samuel, ii. 32 + + Roy, Captain, iii. 186 + + Rubielo, i. 188 + + Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230 + + + Sacrificios, i. 114 + + Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85 + + Saghalien Island, iii. 194, 198 + + Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20 + + Saigon, iii. 227 + + St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178 + + St. Barbara River, i. 227 + + San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163 + + St. Helena, i. 90 + + St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261 + + _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208, 233, 243 + + St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69 + + St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62 + + St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238 + Island, i. 123 + Roads, i. 85 + + San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. 77, 78 + + St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. 73 + + St. Vincent, i. 97, 107 + + Sakai, iii. 186, 187 + + Salamanca, i. 82 + + Salamis, Bay of, i. 179 + + _Salamis_, iii. 115, 120, 122, 145, 173, 180, 192, 198, 234, 237 + + Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. 324 + + Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332 + + _Samarang_, ii. 18 + + Sambas River, i. 292 + + Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129 + + Sandringham, iii. 92, 93, 260 + + Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151 + + Santobong, ii. 112 + + _Saracen_, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, 240 + + Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, 112; iii. 11, 124, + 229 + + Sarebas, the, ii. 127 + River, i. 311 + + _Satellite_, iii. 122 + + Satsuma, Prince, iii. 174, 175, 178, 180 + + Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69 + Captain, i. 326 + + Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131 + Prince Edward of, ii. 253 + + Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87 + + Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. 170, 222 + Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7 + + _Scout_, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, 242 + + Sebastopol; _see_ Sevastopol + + Seboo, ii. 2 + + Sekarran, country, ii. 2 + River, i. 312; ii. 6 + + Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127 + + Senegal, i. 238 + + _Serapis_, iii. 332 + + Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2 + + Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335 + + Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264 + + Seymour family, the, i. 253 + Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. 321 + Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, 333; ii. 235; + iii. 283, 321 + Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17 + Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. 1, 9 + Michael (junior), iii. 3 + Lord William, ii. 235 + + Shakotan Bay, iii. 227 + + Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. 142, 172, 180, 220, 237 + + Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288 + + Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182 + Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282 + + Sheridan, Charles, i. 260 + Francis, i. 260, 261, 262 + + Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60 + + Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187 + + Shunski, Ito, iii. 183 + + Siefukigi Temple, iii. 183 + + Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. 70 + + Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80 + + Simoneseki Straits, iii. 146, 265 + + Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; iii. 45, 67, 74 + + Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71 + General, i. 81; ii. 279 + Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323 + + Sinclair, Major, i. 291 + + Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, 322, 333, 338; ii. 23, + 24, 75, 77, 111, 128, 129; iii. 9, 13, 115, 120, 121, 122, 230 + + _Sir Charles Forbes_, iii. 1 + + Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76 + + Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48 + Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, 273, 278, 279, + 291; ii. 65 + + Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71 + + Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176 + + Sober Island, i. 127 + + Somerset, the Duke of, iii. 79, 265 + Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72 + + Soult, Marshal, i. 247 + + Spalding, John, i. 98 + + _Spartan_, ii. 41 + + Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. 41, 46, 57, 91 + + Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253 + + _Sphynx_, ii. 52 + + Spurrier, Mr., iii. 4, 20 + + Stanhope, Captain, iii. 179, 181, 186, 187 + Elizabeth, i. 8 + Spencer, i. 8 + + Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156 + + _Stanley_, iii. 222 + + Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123 + General, ii. 117 + + Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240 + Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; ii. 219; + iii. 15-17, 19, 27, 107, 115, 190, 205 + Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233 + Lady Mary; _see_ Keppel + + Steward, Mr., ii. 7 + + Stewart, Mrs. Keith; _see_ Fitzroy, Mary + + Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70 + + Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55 + + Straits Settlements, the, iii. 121, 316 + + Strongiolo Bay, i. 179 + + Suckling, i. 20, 24 + + Suez, iii. 18, 118 + + Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162 + + Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97 + + Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59 + + Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104 + + Sumatra, i. 149 + + Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123 + + Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75 + + Surtees family, i. 5 + + Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, 161, + 246, 247, 249, 322 + + Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. 115 + + Swan, Commander John, iii. 190 + + Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221 + + Swatow, iii. 136, 233, 235 + + Swinhoe, Consul, iii. 237 + + _Sybille_, iii. 8 + + Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164 + + Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46 + + Syra, i. 180 + + + Tagus, River, ii. 213 + + Tahiti, ii. 177 + + Tai-wan-foo, iii. 224 + + Taki Zingaburo, iii. 183, 184 + + Taku Forts, iii. 171, 264, 303, 310 + + _Talavera_, i. 169, 171 + + Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123 + + Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247 + + Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338 + + Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113 + + Tangiers, i. 168 + + Tang-Tau, iii. 234, 235 + + Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. 123 + + Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83 + + Tarragona, i. 189, 196 + + Tartary, Gulf of, iii. 192 + + Tasmania, ii. 157 + + Taylor, pilot, i. 257 + + Tchung-How, iii. 263 + + Templer, John, ii. 43, 62 + J. L. B., ii. 43 + + Termination Island, iii. 195 + + Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. 82 + + Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251 + + Thompson, Deas, ii. 157 + + Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. 9 + + Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. 187, 227, 271 + + _Thunderer_, i. 121, 169, 170, 180 + + _Tien Chi_, iii. 222 + + Tientsin, iii. 303 + + Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128 + + Tomari, iii. 163 + + Tombeaux Bay, iii. 65 + + Tonga Tabu, ii. 172 + + Toolyan Island, ii. 106 + + Torres, Captain de, i. 36 + + Torres Straits, ii. 142 + + Tortoza, i. 188 + + Tosa, Prince, iii. 170 + + Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81 + + Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123 + + Tracey, Commander, iii. 177 + + Trade Town, i. 203, 206 + + Trafalgar, i. 7, 12 + + _Tribune_, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. 8 + + Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157 + + Tripoli, i. 171, 178 + + Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123 + + Trollope, Commander, iii. 222 + + Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120 + + Troy, i. 178 + + Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. 222 + + Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82 + + Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. 1, 4, 39, 45 + + Twanai, iii. 163 + + _Tweed_, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, 85 + + Twofold Bay, ii. 157 + + _Tyne_, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200 + + + _Undaunted_, i. 67, 84 + + Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19 + + + Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195 + + Valparaiso, ii. 195 + + _Venus_, iii. 186 + + Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65 + + Vernon, Lord, i. 184 + + _Vernon_, i. 169, 180 + + Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. 1, 2, 9, 25 + + Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. 19, 41, + 116, 322, 329 + Princess; _see_ Princess Royal + + _Victory_, i. 53 + + Villa Nueva, i. 200 + + Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103 + + _Vladimir_, ii. 302 + + Vladivostock, iii. 198, 218 + + Vlangali, A., iii. 192, 194 + + _Volage_, i. 169, 180 + + Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191 + + Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173 + + + Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81 + Colonel, i. 81 + Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14 + + Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171 + + Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. 81, 92, 93, 105, 113, + 115, 322, 328, 329, 332, 333 + H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. 81, 93, 105, 322, 333 + + Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. 74 + + Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7 + + _Wanderer_, i. 275, 333 + + Waring, Mr., i. 187 + + Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. 75 + + Warrington, Colonel, i. 172 + + Waterford, Lord, i. 246 + + Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86 + + Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8 + + _Waterwitch_, i. 223, 227, 228 + + Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278 + + Wellesley, Captain George, iii. 14 + + _Wellesley_, ii. 68 + + Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206 + + Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171 + + Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8 + Frederica, Countess of, i. 8 + + West, Green, i. 71 + Jane; _see_ Keppel, Lady + Rev. Richard, iii. 80 + + Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. 14, 232, 317 + + Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. 27 + + White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29 + + Whitehead, Mr., i. 322 + + Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27 + + Whydah, i. 237, 239 + + Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60 + + Wildman, Colonel, i. 11 + + William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, 200 + + Williams, Sir John, i. 94 + Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165 + + Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7 + + Willoughby, James, iii. 117 + + Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. 178 + family, the, i. 51 + + Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301 + Mr., ii. 101, 105 + + Windsor, iii. 115, 116 + + Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63 + Captain W., i. 169 + + Wodehouse, George, i. 103 + + _Wolverine_, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24 + + Wood, Sir Charles, iii. 9 + Rev. James, i. 2, 4 + + Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. 180, 220 + + Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115 + + Wynberg, i. 71 + + + Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64 + + Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150 + + Xeres, i. 184 + + + Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. 237 + + Yarborough, Lord, i. 166 + + Yates, Mr., i. 66 + + Yedo, iii. 148, 179, 180, 265 + + Yeh, Admiral, iii. 6 + + Yeng Cheow, iii. 223 + + Yesso, iii. 164 + + Yo-chow, iii. 250 + + Yokohama, iii. 148, 150, 151, 162, 174, 177, 179, 180, 191, 192, 220, + 295 + + Yokosha, iii. 191 + + York, Cape, ii. 142 + + Young, Captain, ii. 79 + + Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165 + + + Zante, i. 180, 182 + + Zanzibar, iii. 57 + the Sultan of, iii. 62 + + _Zebra_, iii. 222 + + +THE END + + +_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_. + + + + +MACMILLAN AND CO.’S NAVAL WORKS. + + + =THE NAVAL HISTORY OF GREAT BRITAIN.= From the Declaration of War by + France in 1793, to the Accession of George IV. By WILLIAM JAMES. + With a Continuation of the History to the Battle of Navarino, by + Captain CHAMIER. With portraits on Steel of William James, Lord + Nelson, Sir Thomas Troubridge, Earl St. Vincent, Lord Duncan, Sir + Hyde Parker, Sir Nesbit Willoughby, Sir William Hoste, Lord Hood, + Earl Howe, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord Dundonald. 6 vols. Crown + 8vo. 42s. + +_FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW._--“James, one of the most pertinacious of +investigators, set a new example. He honestly did his utmost to satisfy +himself of the absolute truth of every statement which he submitted +to his readers. He wrote hundreds of letters to the surviving actors +in the events which he purposed to describe. He read and digested all +the despatches, logs, gazettes, previous histories, foreign reports, +and private narratives on which he could lay his hands. He carefully +balanced conflicting accounts, and arrived in the majority of instances +at conclusions the correctness of which has never yet been successfully +attacked. He went to immense pains to give the exact Christian names +of all officers whom he had occasion to mention, and to analyse the +true force of every ship the exploits of which he recounted. Never was +there a man more painstaking, more indefatigable, more scrupulously +conscientious.” + +_EDINBURGH REVIEW._--“This book is one of which it is not too high +praise to assert that it approaches as nearly to perfection in its own +line as any historical work perhaps ever did.” + + +_Edited by THE TWELFTH EARL OF DUNDONALD._ + + =THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A SEAMAN: Thomas, Tenth Earl of Dundonald.= + Popular Edition, with a Sequel relating Lord Dundonald’s services + in South America, and in the War of the Greek Independence, and + with an account of his later life and scientific inventions. 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Considering +the space at the author’s command, we think it wonderful how much he +has managed to get in.” + + +_MR. KIPLING AND THE NAVY._ + +_Thirty-fifth Thousand._ + + =A FLEET IN BEING.= Notes of Two Trips with the Channel Squadron. By + RUDYARD KIPLING. Crown 8vo, sewed, 1s. net; Cloth, 1s. 6d. net. + +_ARMY AND NAVY GAZETTE._--“A very admirable picture of the life of +officers and men who go down to the sea in the ships of Her Majesty’s +fleet.” + +_ARMY AND NAVY ILLUSTRATED._--“A little book to be read far and wide.” + + +MACMILLAN AND CO., LTD., LONDON. + + + + +MACMILLAN AND CO.’S MILITARY WORKS. + + + =FORTY-ONE YEARS IN INDIA FROM SUBALTERN TO COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF.= + By Field-Marshal LORD ROBERTS of Kandahar, V.C., K.P., G.C.B., + G.C.S.I., G.C.I.E. New Edition in One Vol. With Forty-four + Illustrations. 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With numerous Illustrations, Portraits, + and Maps. 8vo. 10s. net. + + ⁂ The Narrative includes the BATTLE OF OMDURMAN and the + FALL OF KHARTOUM. + +_DAILY TELEGRAPH._--“A plain, soldierly narrative which practically +covers the whole recent history of the Soudan, and, as such, will +doubtless meet with appreciative readers.” + + + =THE CAMPAIGN IN TIRAH, 1897-1898.=--An Account of the Expedition + against the Orakzais and Afridis under General Sir WILLIAM + LOCKHART, G.C.B., K.C.S.I. Based (by permission) on Letters + contributed to the _Times_ by Colonel H. D. HUTCHINSON, + Director of Military Education in India. With Maps, Plans, and + Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 8s. 6d. net. + +_NAVY AND ARMY._--“A book of singular interest, and of much practical +value.... Of the actual fighting, Colonel Hutchinson writes +brilliantly. His letters to the _Times_ were the best sent regularly +from the seat of war, and they are embodied in the volume with many +additions and links.... Thoroughly good reading.... Emphatically a book +to be read.” + + +MACMILLAN AND CO., LTD., LONDON. + + + + +Transcriber’s Notes + + + • Italic text denoted by _underscores_. + • Bold text denoted by =equal signs=. + • Small capitals converted to ALL CAPS. + • Images relocated close to related content. + • Sidenotes relocated close to related content. + • The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate + the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location. + Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous + sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted. + • Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close + to related content. + • Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were + silently corrected. + • Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved. + • Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved. + • The index that appears in volume III has been replicated into + volumes I and II. + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76810 *** |