path: root/76809-0.txt

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76809 ***





A SAILOR’S LIFE




[Illustration: MacMillan and Co. Printer’s Mark.]




[Illustration:

    _Photographed by
    Her Highness the Râni of Sarawak_

_A Hadji._]




 A SAILOR’S LIFE
 UNDER
 FOUR SOVEREIGNS

 BY
 ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET
 THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL
 G.C.B., D.C.L.

 VOL. II

 London
 MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED
 NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

 1899

 _All rights reserved_




CONTENTS


 CHAPTER XXXII                                               PAGE
 _Dido_                                                         1

 CHAPTER XXXIII
 _Dido_: Second Expedition                                     10

 CHAPTER XXXIV
 _Dido_                                                        22

 CHAPTER XXXV
 England                                                       30

 CHAPTER XXXVI
 Shore Time--Study Steam                                       38

 CHAPTER XXXVII
 Shore Time                                                    50

 CHAPTER XXXVIII
 The _Mæander_                                                 65

 CHAPTER XXXIX
 _Mæander_--Cruising                                           92

 CHAPTER XL
 _Mæander_--Cruising in the Sulu Sea                          106

 CHAPTER XLI
 _Mæander_--Hong Kong                                         115

 CHAPTER XLII
 In Eastern Seas                                              124

 CHAPTER XLIII
 _Mæander_                                                    144

 CHAPTER XLIV
 _En route_ to Sydney                                         151

 CHAPTER XLV
 Sydney to Hobart Town                                        153

 CHAPTER XLVI
 Sydney                                                       164

 CHAPTER XLVII
 _Mæander_                                                    190

 CHAPTER XLVIII
 At Home                                                      201

 CHAPTER XLIX
 Shore Time                                                   205

 CHAPTER L
 _St. Jean d’ Acre_                                           208

 CHAPTER LI
 _St. Jean d’ Acre_--Cruising                                 215

 CHAPTER LII
 The Baltic Fleet                                             223

 CHAPTER LIII
 The Bombardment of Bomarsund                                 233

 CHAPTER LIV
 _St. Jean d’ Acre_                                           238

 CHAPTER LV
 The Crimea                                                   245

 CHAPTER LVI
 _St. Jean d’ Acre_                                           261

 CHAPTER LVII
 Second Expedition to Kertch                                  270

 CHAPTER LVIII
 Naval Brigade                                                276

 CHAPTER LIX
 Trenches--Before Sevastopol                                  288

 CHAPTER LX
 The Redan                                                    297

 CHAPTER LXI
 After Fall of Sevastopol                                     304

 CHAPTER LXII
 Arrival from Crimea--Thence in _Colossus_--Shore Time        312

 CHAPTER LXIII
 The _Raleigh_                                                325

 CHAPTER LXIV
 The _Raleigh_                                                330

 CHAPTER LXV
 Cape to China                                                333

 INDEX




ILLUSTRATIONS


              SUBJECT                       ARTIST                  PAGE

 A Hadji                               _Photographed by Her
                                         Highness the Râni
                                         of Sarawak_        Frontispiece

 _Mæander_ Fitting                     _Sir Oswald Brierly_           66

 _Mæander_ leaving Plymouth              ”     ”                      68

 “The Bishop”                          _From a photograph_            71

 _Mæander_ hove to                     _Sir Oswald Brierly_           74

 Comber in Danger                        ”     ”                      75

 New Harbour, Singapore                  ”     ”                      78

 All Sail set                            ”     ”                      83

 _Mæander_ passing astern of
     _Hastings_                          ”     ”                      89

 Map--Eastern Archipelago                                             92

 Kina-Balu, N. Borneo                    ”     ”                      95

 _Mæander_, Hong Kong. Manned
     Yards on Departure of Sir
     Francis Collier                     ”     ”                     114

 A Spanish Galleon                       ”     ”                     124

 _Mæander_ on Shore                      ”     ”                     126

 Comba                                   ”     ”                     133

 _Mæander_ off Port Essington            ”     ”                     135

 An Australian Grave                     ”     ”                     136

 _Mæander_ at Sydney                     ”     ”                     154

 Sir Oswald Brierly                    _Nina Daly_                   156

 _Mæander_ at Hobart Town              _Sir Oswald Brierly_          159

 The Sham Fight                          ”     ”                     161

 _Mæander_ between Sydney Heads          ”     ”                     164

 The _Rattlesnake_                       ”     ”                     166

 Rescue by Convicts. Norfolk Island      ”     ”                     168

 A Coral Island                          ”     ”                     170

 A Stockade                              ”     ”                     172

 _Mæander_ in a Gale                   _Sir Oswald Brierly_          173

 Point Venus, Tahiti                     ”     ”                     174

 Tahiti Harbour                          ”     ”                     176

 Lieutenant George Bowyear             _Nina Daly_                   177

 Eimeo                                 _Sir Oswald Brierly_          178

 Inland Scenery, Tahiti                  ”     ”                     179

 A Coral Atoll                           ”     ”                     181

 _Mæander_ at Valparaiso                 ”     ”                     183

 Coquimbo                                ”     ”                     186

 Sharks at Mazatlan                      ”     ”                     188

 The Cemetery at Guyamas                 ”     ”                     192

 In the Straits of Magellan              ”     ”                     197

 Gunnery Exercise                        ”     ”                     216

 The _St. Jean d’ Acre_                  ”     ”                     222

 The Commander-in-Chief                _Anon._                       227

 The _Gondola_ Yacht off
     Tolbeacon Light                   _Sir Oswald Brierly_          229

 Circular Fort--Bomarsund                ”     ”                     237

 The Battle of the Alma                “_Illustrated London News_”   241

 Map--Strait of Gibraltar                                            247

 Map--The Bosporus                                                   250

 _St. Jean d’ Acre_ off Balaclava      _Col. Hon. Sir W. Colville,_  251
                                           _K.C.V.O., C.B._

 “All the Way Up.” The Col of
     Balaclava                           ”     ”                     254

 “How the Guards looked”               _From “Punch,” 1855_          257

 Omar Pasha’s Arab                     _E. Caldwell_                 261

 Headquarters                          _Simpson, I.L.N._             265

 Map of Crimea                                                       269

 “Jack, to Newly-Arrived               _Col. Hon. Sir W. Colville,_  278
     Subaltern ...”                        _K.C.V.O., C.B._

 In Rear of the Lancaster Battery        ”     ”                     281

 Plan of Sevastopol                                                  293

 Inside the Naval Brigade Battery      _Simpson, I.L.N._             295

 “Redan” Windham                       _Nina Daly_                   301

 A Vidette of Cossacks                 _Col. Hon. Sir W. Colville,_  307
                                           _K.C.V.O., C.B._




CHAPTER XXXII

_DIDO_


[Sidenote: 1844. Sarawak, Aug. 5.]

This being the morning fixed for the departure of our small expedition
against the Sekarrans, the _Phlegethon_ weighed at eight and proceeded
down the river to await the collection of force.

Among those who accompanied us was the Pangeran Budrudeen, the
intelligent brother of the Rajah already noticed. This was an unusual
event in the Royal Family, and the departure from the Rajah’s wharf was
imposing. The barge of state was decked with banners and canopies. All
the chiefs attended, with the Arab priest Mudlana at their head, and
the barge pushed off amid the firing of cannon and a general shout to
invoke the blessing of Mahomet.

Having seen the last boat off, Brooke and I took our departure in the
gig, when another salute was fired from the wharf. Three hours brought
us to the steamer. Here we heard that a small boat from the pirate
country had, under pretence of trading, been spying into our force, but
decamped on our appearance. We now got fairly away, the smaller boats
keeping near the shoals in-shore, while the steamer was obliged to make
an offing some miles from the coast. From the masthead we distinctly
made out the small boat that had left the mouth of the river before,
pulling and sailing in the direction of Batang Lupar, up which the
Sekarran country lies; and it being desirable that they should not
get information of our approach, at dusk, being well in advance, our
auxiliary force following, we despatched Brooke’s sampan and one of
_Dido’s_ cutters in chase.

[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]

With the flood-tide arrived the well-appointed little fleet, and with
it the cutter and sampan with two out of the three men belonging to the
boat of which they had been in chase, the third having been speared by
Seboo on showing a strong inclination to run amuck in his own boat.
From these men we learned that Seriff Sahib was fully prepared for
defence--his harem had been removed--and that he would fight to the
last.

We anchored in the afternoon at the mouth of the Linga, and sent
a messenger to caution the chief, Seriff Jaffer, against giving
any countenance to either Seriff. The Batang Lupar, thus far, is a
magnificent river, from three to four miles wide, and in most parts
from 5 to 7 fathoms deep.

[Sidenote: Aug. 7.]

Weighed at daylight. Shortly after eleven, with a tide sweeping us up,
we came in sight of the fortifications of Patusen. There were five
forts. Getting suddenly into 6 feet of water, we anchored. We were well
within musket range, but not so formidable a berth as we might have
taken up had we been aware of the increasing depth of water nearer the
shore; but we approached so rapidly there was no time to ascertain.

The _Dido_ and _Phlegethon’s_ boats were not long in forming alongside.
They consisted of the following:--

Pinnace: Lieutenant C. F. Wade; R. Beith, assistant-surgeon; 13 seamen;
5 marines.

_Jolly Bachelor_: Lieutenant E. W. Turnour; Mr. C. Johnson, midshipman;
21 seamen; 7 marines.

First cutter: Mr. E. H. H. D’Aeth, mate; 8 seamen; 8 marines.

Second cutter: Mr. Robert Jenkins, acting-mate; 8 seamen; 2 marines.

Second gig: Mr. R. C. Allen, Master; 6 seamen.

_Phlegethon’s_ first cutter: Mr. S. Caverley, first officer; 15 men.

Second cutter: Mr. Simpson, second officer; Mr. A. Barton, midshipman;
15 seamen.

Third cutter: Mr. H. Comber, acting-mate of _Dido_; 12 seamen.

Fourth cutter: Mr. G. S. Darby, fourth officer; 12 seamen.

In all, 13 officers; 108 seamen; 16 marines.

We had no steam, and to direct a fleet of boats how to attack a
succession of half a dozen forts was beyond me. They were off, and they
were there! From the _Phlegethon_ we had no difficulty in setting fire
to the thatched roofs of the forts. Reinforcements came across the
extensive shelter of Patusen Harbour. These we might easily have sunk
with _Phlegethon’s_ guns, but there was excitement for them on landing!
They never once checked in their advance, but the moment they touched
the shore the crews rushed up, entering the forts at the embrasures,
while the pirates fled at the rear. In this sharp and short affair we
had but one man killed, poor John Ellis, a fine young man, and captain
of the maintop in the _Dido_. He was cut in two by a round-shot while
in the act of ramming home a cartridge in the bow-gun of the _Jolly
Bachelor_, of which Lieutenant Edward Turnour was in command. This,
and two others badly wounded, were the only casualties on our side.

Our native allies were not long in following our men on shore.
The killed and wounded on the part of the pirates must have been
considerable. Our native followers got many heads. There were no less
than sixty-four brass guns of different sizes, besides many iron, found
in and about the forts. The town was extensive, and after being well
looted made a glorious blaze. Our Sarawak followers, both Malays and
Dyaks, behaved with gallantry, and with our lads dashed in under the
fire of the forts. In fact, like their country, anything might be made
of them under a good Government.

After our men had dined, and had a short rest during the heat of the
day, we landed our force in two divisions to attack a town situated
about two miles up, on the left bank of a small river called the
Grahan, the entrance to which had been guarded by the forts, and
immediately after their capture the tide had fallen too low for our
boats to get up. Facing the stream, too, was a long stockade, so
that we determined on attacking the place in the rear, which, had
the pirates waited to receive them, would have caused an interesting
skirmish. Brooke was away independently in the gig. They, however,
decamped, leaving everything behind them.

In this town we found Seriff Sahib’s residence, and among other things
his curious and extensive wardrobe. It was ridiculous to see our Dyaks
dressed out in all the finery and plunder of this noted pirate, whose
very name a few days ago would have made them tremble.

[Sidenote: Aug. 6, 7.]

We likewise found a magazine in the rear of Sahib’s house, containing
about 2 tons of gunpowder, which I ordered to be thrown into the river.

It was evident we attacked Patusen at the right moment: the
preparations for its defence were nearly completed, and a delay of a
week would have resulted in considerable loss of life. It was the key
to this extensive river, the resort of the worst of pirates, and each
chief had contributed his share of guns and ammunition towards its
defence.

We returned to our boats and evening meal rather fatigued, but much
pleased with our work, after ascending near seventy miles from the
mouth of the river. The habitations of 5000 pirates had been burnt to
the ground, five strong forts destroyed, together with several hundred
boats, upwards of sixty brass guns captured, and about a fourth of that
number of iron ones spiked and thrown into the river, besides vast
quantities of other arms and ammunition, and the powerful Sahib, the
great pirate patron for the last twenty years, ruined past recovery,
and driven to hide his diminished head in the jungle.

[Sidenote: Aug. 8, 9.]

The 8th and 9th were spent in burning and destroying the remains of the
staggering town and a variety of smaller boats.

[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]

As soon as the tide had risen sufficiently to take us over the shoals,
we weighed in the steamer for the country of the Sekarran Dyaks, having
sent the boats on before with the first of the flood.

About fifteen miles above Patusen is the branch of the river called the
Undop. Up this river I sent Lieutenant Turnour, with Mr. Comber, in the
_Jolly Bachelor_ and a division of our native boats, while we proceeded
to where the river again branches off to the right and left, as on the
tongue of land so formed we understood we should find a strong fort;
besides, it was the highest point to which we could attempt to take the
steamer. We found the place deserted and houses empty.

We now divided the force into three divisions--the one already
mentioned, under Lieutenant Turnour, up the Undop; another, under Mr.
D’Aeth, up the Lupar; while Lieutenant Wade, accompanied by Brooke,
ascended the Sekarran. I had not calculated on the disturbed and
excited state in which I found the country: two wounded men having been
sent back from the Undop branch, brought accounts of pirates, chiefly
Malays, collected in great numbers both before and in the rear of our
small force.

An attempt had been made to cut off the bearer of this information,
Nakodah Bahar, who had had a narrow escape, and had no idea of being
the bearer of an answer unless attended by a European force. I had some
difficulty in mustering another crew from the steamer, and left my
friend Captain Scott with only the idlers, rather critically situated.
I deemed it advisable to re-collect our whole force, and before
proceeding to the punishment of the Sekarrans to destroy the power and
influence of Seriff Muller, whose town was situated about twenty miles
up, said to contain a population of 1500 Malays, without reckoning the
Dyak tribes.

Having despatched boats with directions to Lieutenant Wade and Mr.
D’Aeth to join us in the Undop, a tributary of the Batang Lupar,
proceeded to the scene of action; leaving the _Phlegethon_ to maintain
as strict a blockade of the Sekarran and Lupar branches as, with her
reduced force, she was capable of.

On my joining Lieutenant Turnour, I found him just returned from a
very spirited attack which he had made, assisted by Mr. Comber, on a
stockade situated on the summit of a steep hill, Mr. Allen, the Master,
being still absent on a similar service on the opposite side of the
river.

The gallant old chief Patingi Ali was likewise absent in pursuit of the
enemy that had been driven from the stockades, with whom he had had a
hand-to-hand fight, the whole of which, being on the rising ground, was
witnessed by our boats’ crews, who could not resist hailing his return
from his gallant achievement with three hearty cheers.

We had now to unite in cutting our way through a barrier across the
river similar to that described in the attack on the Sarebas, which
having passed we brought up for the night close to a still more serious
obstacle in a number of huge trees felled, the branches of which,
meeting midway in the river, formed apparently an insurmountable
obstacle. But “patience and perseverance” overcame all obstacles. By
night only three of the trees remained to be cleared away. On the right
bank, about 50 yards in advance of the barrier, stood a farm building,
which we considered it prudent to occupy for the night.

Having collected fifty volunteers (Brooke and Wade had then not
rejoined), I took Brooke’s schoolfellow Steward, Williamson, and with
me Comber, a corporal and four marines, my gig’s crew, and, of course,
my trusty John Eager, the sound of whose bugle meant mischief. The
remainder composed of a medley of picked Malays and Dyaks.

The house being 100 yards in advance of our party, and 80 from the
river, it was difficult of approach, especially at night. The ground
swampy, with logs of trees, over which I stumbled, and was up to my
arms in mud and water. Nevertheless, there was no noise. It was a roomy
building. In one corner I found an enclosure, forming a square of about
8 feet; of this I took possession, and while in the place--it was pitch
dark--I quietly divested me of my wet trousers.

“Tiga” (three) was the watchword, in case of a stranger finding his way
in. I was contemplating whether my duck trousers were sufficiently dry
for me to get into, when every one was disturbed by a most diabolical
war-yell. In a moment every man was on his legs--swords, spears, and
krisses dimly glittered over our heads. It is impossible to describe
the excitement and confusion of the succeeding ten minutes; one and all
believed we had been surrounded by the enemy and cut off from our main
party.

I had already thrust the muzzle of my pistol close to the heads of
several natives, whom in the confusion I had mistaken for Sekarrans;
and as each in his turn called out “Tiga!” I withdrew my weapon to
apply it to somebody else, until at last we found we were _all_
“Tigas.” I had prevented Eager more than once from sounding the alarm,
which from the first he had not ceased to press for permission to do.

The Dyak yell had, however, succeeded in throwing the whole force
afloat into a similar confusion, who, not hearing the signal, concluded
they, and not we, were the party attacked. The real cause we afterwards
ascertained to have arisen from the alarm of a Dyak, who dreamt, or
imagined, he felt a spear thrust upwards through the bamboo flooring of
our building, and immediately gave his diabolical yell. The confusion
was ten times as much as it would have been had the enemy really been
there. So ended the adventures of the night in the wild jungle of
Borneo.




CHAPTER XXXIII

_DIDO_: SECOND EXPEDITION


[Sidenote: 1844. Aug. 11.]

At daylight we were joined by Wade and Brooke, their division making a
very acceptable increase to our force, and by eight o’clock the last
barrier was cut through between us and Seriff Muller’s devoted town.

With the exception of his own house, from which some eight or nine
Malays were endeavouring to remove his effects, the whole place was
deserted. They made no fight, and an hour afterwards the town had been
plundered and burnt.

The only lives lost were a few unfortunates, who happened to come
within range of our musketry in their exertions to save some of their
master’s property.

A handsome large boat belonging to Seriff Muller was the only thing
saved, and this I presented to Budrudeen.

After a short delay in catching our usual supply of goats and poultry,
with which the place abounded, we proceeded up the river in chase of
the chief and his people, our progress much impeded by the immense
trees felled across the river.

We ascertained that the pirates had retreated to a Dyak village,
situated on the summit of a hill, some twenty-five miles higher up the
Undop, five or six miles only of which we had succeeded in ascending,
as a most dreary and rainy night closed in, during which we were joined
by D’Aeth and his division from the Lupar River.

The following morning, at daybreak, we again commenced our toilsome
work. We should have succeeded better with lighter boats, and I
should have despaired of the heavier boats getting up had they not
been assisted by an opportune and sudden rise of the tide, to the
extent of 12 or 14 feet, though with this we had to contend against a
considerably increased strength of current.

It was on this day that my ever active and zealous First Lieutenant,
Charles Wade, jealous of the advanced position of our light boats,
obtained a place in my gig.

That evening the _Phlegethon’s_ first and second cutters, the _Dido’s_
two cutters, and their gigs, were fortunate enough to pass a barrier
composed of trees recently felled, from which we concluded ourselves to
be so near the enemy that, by pushing forward as long as we could see,
we might prevent further impediments from being thrown in our way. This
we did, but at 9 P.M., arriving at a broad expanse of the river, and
being utterly unable to trace our course, we anchored our advance force
for the night.

[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]

The first landing-place we had no trouble in discovering, from the
number of deserted boats collected near it. Leaving these to be looted,
we proceeded in search of the second, which we understood was situated
more immediately under the village, and which, having advanced without
our guides, we had much difficulty in finding. The circuit of the base
of the hill was above five miles.

During this warfare, Patingi Ali, who, with his usual zeal, had here
come up, bringing a considerable native force of both Malays and Dyaks,
was particularly on the alert; while we in the gig attacked Seriff
Muller himself.

Patingi nearly succeeded in capturing that chief in person. He had
escaped from his prahu into a fast-pulling sampan, in which he was
chased by old Ali, and afterwards only saved his life by throwing
himself into the water and swimming to the jungle; indeed, it was with
no small pride that the gallant old chief appropriated the boat to his
own use.

In the prahu were captured two large brass guns, two smaller ones, a
variety of arms, ammunition, and personal property, amongst which were
also two pairs of handsome Wedgewood jars.

While my crew were employed cooking, I crept into the jungle and
suddenly fancied I heard the suppressed hum of many voices not far
distant. I returned to our cooking party and bade Wade take up his
double-barrel and come with me. I had not penetrated many yards before
I came in sight of a mass of boats concealed in a snug little inlet,
the entrance to which had escaped our notice. These boats were filled
with piratical Dyaks and Malays, and sentinels posted at various points
on the shore.

My first impulse was to conceal ourselves until the arrival of our
force, but my rash though gallant friend deemed otherwise, and, without
noticing the caution of my upheld hand, dashed in advance, discharging
his gun, calling upon our men to follow.

It is impossible to conceive the consternation and confusion this
our sudden sally occasioned among the pirates. The confused noise
and scrambling from their boats I can only liken to that of a
suddenly-roused flock of wild-ducks.

Our attack from the point whence it came was evidently unexpected; and
it is my opinion that they calculated on our attacking the hill, if we
did so at all, from the nearest landing-place, without pulling round
the other five miles, as the whole attention of their scouts appeared
to be directed towards that quarter.

A short distance above them was a small encampment, probably erected
for the convenience of their chiefs, as in it we found writing
materials, two or three desks of English manufacture, on the brass
plate of one of which, I afterwards noticed, was engraved the name of
“Willson.”

To return to the pirates: with our force, such as it was--nine in
number--we pursued our terrified enemy, headed by Wade.

They foolishly themselves had not the courage to rally in their
judiciously selected and naturally protected encampment, but continued
their retreat (firing on us from the jungle) towards the Dyak
village on the summit of the hill. We collected our force, reloaded
our firearms; and Wade, seeing from this spot the arrival at the
landing-place of the other boats, again rushed on in pursuit.

Before arriving at the foot of the steep ascent on the summit of which
the Dyak village stood, we had to cross a small open space of about 60
yards, exposed to the fire from the village as well as the surrounding
jungle. It was before crossing this plain that I again cautioned Wade
to await the arrival of his men, of whom he was far in advance.

We suddenly came on to the snuggest and best-sheltered boat harbour
I ever saw. The land was high towards the river, with a narrow and
well-concealed entrance opening to the river, so high that an impromptu
bridge in the shape of a large tree had been thrown across. It was
along this that Wade was proceeding in advance, calling “Come on, my
boys!” And I am afraid I did not disguise my gratification at seeing
him disappear into the branches of a large tree growing beneath.

By this time the cutter and other boats had landed at our point and
were coming up. I had scarcely got across the tree-bridge, when I saw
my friend scrambling up the opposite side, himself unhurt, his gun not
discharged.

Our men were now landing fast, and it was for very shame I could not
allow Wade to proceed alone. Only a few minutes afterwards, while still
trying to check him, a bullet from the hill took his thumb and twisted
him in my direction; while a second shot struck him in the ribs and
lodged in the spine--and he fell.

By this time a strong party were up, whom I directed to pass on, while
I ascertained that poor Wade’s heart had ceased to beat.

We laid the body in a canoe, with the Union Jack for a pall, and
descended the river. In the evening, the force assembled, committed the
body to the deep. I read that impressive service from a Prayer-Book
brought up by poor Wade himself--as he put it, “in case of accident.”

Before we again got under way, several Malay families, no longer in
dread of their piratical chief, Seriff Muller, gave themselves up to
us as prisoners--the first instance of any of them having done so.
We found sundry suspicious documents, exposing deep intrigues and
conspiracies, and brought up for the night off the still burning ruins
of Seriff Muller’s town.

[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]

On Tuesday we again reached the steamer. We still had something to
settle with the Sekarrans, and, having rested for two days, started on
the 17th on our last expedition.

[Sidenote: Aug. 17.]

The weather was unusually fine, and we squatted down to our curry and
rice with better appetites.

[Sidenote: Aug. 18.]

Our approach was made known by fires; but we once dropped, without
their being aware of our approach, upon a boatful of Dyaks, dressed
for war, with feather cloaks, brass ornaments, and scarlet caps. The
discharge of our muskets and the capsizing of the war-boat was the work
of an instant, and those who were uninjured escaped into the jungle.

We experienced some difficulty in finding a suitable place for our
bivouac. While examining the most eligible-looking spot on the bank of
the river, the crew of one of the _Phlegethon’s_ boats, having crept up
the opposite bank, came suddenly on a party of Dyaks, who saluted them
with a war-yell and a shower of spears. The _Phlegethon’s_ men took to
the water, much to our amusement as well as the Dyaks.

The place we selected for the night was a large house, about 40 yards
from the edge of the river. Here we united our different messes and
passed a jovial evening. The night, however, set in with a fearful
thunderstorm. The rain continued to fall in torrents, but cleared up at
daylight, when we proceeded.

As yet the banks of the river had been a continued garden, with
sugar-cane and bananas; the scenery now became wilder.

[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]

We were in hopes that this morning we should have reached their
capital, Karangan, supposed to be about ten miles further on. Not
expecting to meet with any opposition for some miles, we gave
permission to Patingi Ali to advance cautiously with his light
division, with orders to fall back on the first appearance of any
natives. As the stream was running down strong, we held on to the bank,
waiting for the arrival of the second cutter, in which were Brooke and
Jenkins.

Our pinnace and second gig having passed up, we remained about a
quarter of an hour, when the report of a few musket-shots told us that
the pirates had been fallen in with. We immediately pushed on, and as
we advanced the increased firing from our boats, and the war-yells of
some thousand Dyaks, let us know that we had met.

It is difficult to describe the scene as I found it. About twenty boats
were jammed together, forming one confused mass--some bottom up; the
bows and sterns of others only visible, mixed up, pell-mell, with huge
rafts--and amongst which were nearly all our advanced division.

Headless trunks, as well as heads without bodies, were lying about;
parties hand to hand spearing and krissing each other, others striving
to swim for their lives; and entangled in the common mêlée were our
advanced boats, while on both banks thousands of Dyaks were rushing
down to join in the slaughter, hurling spears and stones on the boats
below.

For a moment I was at a loss what steps to take for rescuing our people
from the position in which they were, as the whole mass, through which
there was no passage, were floating down the stream, and the addition
of fresh boats only increased the confusion.

Fortunately, at this critical moment one of the rafts, catching the
stump of a tree, broke this floating bridge, making a passage, through
which my gig (propelled by paddles instead of oars)--the bugler, John
Eager, in the bow--was enabled to pass.

It occurred to Brooke and myself simultaneously, that by advancing in
the gig we should draw the attention of the pirates towards us, so as
to give time for the other boats to clear themselves. This had the
desired effect. The whole force on shore turned, as if to secure what
they rashly conceived to be their prize.

We now advanced mid-channel, spears and stones assailing us from both
banks. Brooke’s gun would not go off, so, giving him the yoke-lines, I,
with the coxswain to load, had time to select the leaders from amongst
the savage mass, on which I kept up a rapid fire.

Allen, in the second gig, quickly coming up, opened upon them from a
Congreve rocket-tube such a destructive fire as caused them to retire
behind the temporary barriers where they had concealed themselves
previous to the attack on Patingi Ali, and from whence they continued,
for some twenty minutes, to hurl their spears and other missiles, among
which were short lengths of bamboo loaded with stone at one end. The
_sumpitan_ was likewise freely employed, and although several of our
men were struck, no fatal results ensued. Mr. Beith, our assistant
surgeon, dexterously excised the wounds, and what poison remained was
sucked out by comrades of the wounded men.

From this position, however, the Sekarrans retreated as our force
increased, and could not again muster courage to rally. Their loss
_must_ have been considerable. Ours might have been light had poor old
Patingi Ali attended to orders.

He was over confident. Instead of falling back, as particularly
directed by me, on the first appearance of any of the enemy he made
a dash, followed by his little division of boats, through the narrow
pass. The enemy at once launched large rafts of bamboo and cut off his
retreat. Six war-prahus bore down, three on either side, on Patingi’s
devoted followers. One only of a crew of seventeen escaped to tell the
tale.

When last seen by our advanced boats, Mr. Steward and Patingi Ali were
in the act (their own boats sinking) of boarding the enemy. They were
doubtless overpowered and killed, with twenty-nine others. Our wounded
in all amounted to fifty-six.

A few miles further up was the capital of Karangan, which we carried
without further opposition.

Having achieved the object of our expedition, we dropped leisurely down
the river; slept in our boats, with a strong guard on shore.

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

On the 20th we reached the steamer, where we remained all the next day
attending to the wounded.

[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]

On the 22nd we reached Patusen, finding everything in the wretched
state we had left it. At 8 P.M. we heard the report of a gun, which was
repeated nearer at nine, and before a signal rocket could be fired, we
were hailed by the boats of the _Samarang_, Captain Sir Edward Belcher,
and the next moment he was alongside the _Phlegethon_ with the welcome
news of having brought our May mail.

It appears that, on arrival of _Samarang_ off Morotoba, Sir Edward
heard of the loss we had sustained, and, with his usual zeal and
activity, came to our assistance, having brought his boats no less
than 120 miles in about thirty hours.

There were two accidents just at this moment which might have been more
serious. D’Aeth, hearing of the mail, hurried on board the _Samarang_
in a small sampan, and was capsized. His skill in swimming saved him;
his one paddler caught hold of a boat near. No sooner than these had
been cared for, when Brooke, whose ears, always on the alert for native
cries, heard voices in trouble, and, jumping into his Singapore sampan,
pushed off with Siboo to the assistance of our Dyak followers, who had
been capsized by the bore. He rescued three out of a crew of eleven,
and these were half drowned when he reached them.

[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]

We moved down as far as the mouth of the Linga, and on the night of the
24th were once again in Sarawak. Here the rejoicings of the previous
year were repeated.

[Sidenote: Aug. 28.]

But having received information that Seriff Sahib had taken refuge in
the Linga River, and, assisted by Seriff Jaffer, was again collecting
followers, we were off again on the 28th, with the addition of the
_Samarang’s_ boats. And, determining to crush this persevering pirate,
in the middle of the night came to an anchor inside the Linga River.

When our expedition had been watched safely outside the Batang Lupar
on its return to Sarawak, all those unfortunate families that had
concealed themselves in the jungle after the destruction of Patusen and
Undop, emerged from their hiding-places, and by means of rafts, canoes,
packerangans, or anything that would float, were in the act of crossing
towards Bunting, a flourishing place. Their dismay can well be imagined
when at daylight on the morning of the 29th they found themselves
carried by the tide close alongside the terror-spreading steamer, in
the midst of our augmented fleet. Escape to them was hopeless; nor
did the women seem to mind. It was a choice between starvation in the
jungle or coming under submission to the white man.

I need not say that, instead of being molested, they were supplied with
such provisions and assistance as our means would permit, and allowed
to pass quietly on. We sent several of our native followers into the
Batang Lupar to inform the fugitives that our business was with the
chiefs and instigators of piracy, and not with the ryots of the country.

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

With the ebb-tide a number of boats came down from the town containing
the principal chiefs, with assurances of their pacific intentions;
welcoming us with presents of poultry, goats, fruit, etc., which we
accepted, but paying for them, either in barter or hard dollars,
the fair market price. We learned that Seriff Sahib had arrived at
Pontranini, some fifty miles beyond their _kampong_.

We immediately proceeded in chase of him, at the same time despatching
two boats to look out for Macota, who was expected at the mouth of
the river. We knew what the fate of this once powerful chief would be
if he fell into the hands of our friendlies. He was captured alive
in a deep muddy jungle into which he had thrown himself when our men
arrived. Leaving Macota a prisoner on board the _Phlegethon_, with the
flood-tide we pushed forward in pursuit of Seriff Sahib.

[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]

For two days we dragged our boats twenty miles up a small jungly
creek; but Seriff Sahib fled across the mountains in the direction of
the Pontiana River. So close were we on his rear that he threw away
his sword, and left behind him a child, whom he had hitherto carried,
in the jungle. Thus this notorious chief was driven, single and
unattended, out of the reach of doing any further mischief.

The boats returned, and took up a formidable position off Bunting,
where Seriff Jaffer was summoned to a conference, which he attended,
but under compulsion from his people, who feared their _kampong_ being
destroyed.

On this occasion I had the satisfaction of witnessing a splendid piece
of oratory delivered by Brooke in Malay. The purport of it was, as I
understood, to point out the horrors of piracy on the one hand, which
the British Government determined to suppress, and on the other the
blessings arising from peace and trade, which it was equally our wish
to cultivate; and he concluded by fully explaining that the measures
adopted by us against piracy were for the protection of the peaceful
communities along the coast. The people listened with great attention;
a pin could have been heard, had it dropped, during Brooke’s fine
speech.

[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]

The force again reached Sarawak, and thus terminated a successful
expedition against the worst class of pirates on the coast of Borneo.




CHAPTER XXXIV

_DIDO_


[Sidenote: 1844. Sept. 5.]

Steamer’s crew cutting wood, I writing distressing letters to the
friends of Wade, as well as to the father of Dr. Simpson. Hospitably
entertained by Belcher.

Landed sundry parties after deer and hog. Oysters fine, the best things
here.

[Sidenote: Sept. 9.]

At an early hour started on a pleasure excursion. Late at night
anchored in the Lundu River, having tiffed by the way at one of the
small islands on splendid oysters.

[Sidenote: Sept. 10.]

Anchored off the town; visited, and was hospitably entertained by, the
Dyaks. In the evening had a feast and a war-dance; was in other ways
much amused. Slept in the Dyak “scullery” house.

[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]

Collected all the dogs and beaters and proceeded to the mouth of the
river. All sport confined to the Dyaks, we never getting a shot; very
good fun, though--a hog was caught by dogs and speared by natives.

[Sidenote: Sept. 12.]

Landed again early; more hogs taken by the natives. Working on towards
Santobong; capital luncheon on the finest oysters. Dined on board the
_Samarang_.

[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]

Brooke and self returned to _Dido_ in gig, twenty-five miles’ pull.
Found heavy sick-list, one marine just expired of dysentery.

Took up quarters with Brooke at The Grove. Deputations and tenders of
allegiance from all the surrounding chiefs satisfactory.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

Preparing for moving down. Boats to finish; spars to get on board;
captured guns to embark. Visited the Rajah and the Datu, “Father of
Hopeful,” his women sprinkling us with yellow rice and gold-dust--one
graceful and pretty and well dressed.

[Sidenote: Sept. 15.]

Too much to do on board. Did not go off to muster.

[Sidenote: Sept. 16.]

At daylight saw from my window _Dido_ salute Rajah and commence
dropping down the river.

[Sidenote: Sept. 18.]

Went down after breakfast, accompanied by Brooke, and found my _Dido_
at anchor off the junction. Moved further down on rising of tide.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

Williamson, Turnour, Partridge, Charlie Johnson, and Douglas came down
from Sarawak to dinner.

[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]

Cruikshank and Williamson to dinner. Finished my claret.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Reached the mouth of the river. Present of warlike weapons from
Budrudeen. Took leave of dear Rajah Brooke, and worked the ship over
the bar of the Maratabu.

[Sidenote: Singapore, Oct. 1.]

Arrived in Singapore. Ordered home. More anxious for passage than my
one cabin can hold. Selected a rough diamond, but great character,
one Michael Quin, lately Captain of _Minden_, hospital ship, also
Lieutenant Inglefield. I had but one cabin, but could swing more than
two cots.

Pleasure of thoughts of home damped by news of the death of my sister,
Lady Leicester.

[Sidenote: Oct. 3.]

News of _Pelican_ having sprung a leak; hope not. _Phlegethon_ off
for Brooke and Borneo. Dined with Oxley. His nutmeg plantation worth
seeing--cinnamon and cloves.

[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]

Lots of rain. Napier spliced this morning. Tiffin at Balestiers’ to
meet the happy pair. Good fellow Napier, and a pair well matched.

[Sidenote: Oct. 9.]

Up very early. On board _Diana_ steamer with Governor and Mrs.
Butterworth. Lady party; _Dido’s_ band. Returned by Rhio Straits. Dance
on board. Pleasant day.

[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]

Called on the Blundells. Like her and her sister much. Dined with
Stevenson.

[Sidenote: Oct. 11.]

A snug little dinner of ten good fellows prior to a dance given by Tom
Church in honour of the _Dido’s_ Captain. Band got drunk.

[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]

My _Dido_ visited by Governor and Mrs. Butterworth, Mrs. Blundell, and
sister--the three nicest women in Singapore. A grand parting dinner
given to me by the inhabitants of Singapore. Nervous, very, making my
speech.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

Old Balestier, American Consul, on board; salutes, etc., Governor,
giving a grand dinner to “meet Captain Keppel”; ladies there; more
nervous in returning thanks.

[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]

Weighed from Singapore. Fort saluting me. Invalids improving.

[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]

Passed mouth of the Moowar, of bygone memories. Came to off Malacca at
sunset.

[Sidenote: Oct. 20.]

Called on Governor; both nice people. Visited Salmona and stopped to
dinner; drove in with Morrison afterwards.

[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]

Young Barney Rodyk embarked; sadly pressed for room; made sail.
_Wolverine_ in co.

[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]

Well ahead of _Wolverine_. Came to off Parcelar Hill; boarded by a
boat from a ship full of pilgrims from Mecca, having struck on a bank
with loss of rudder and hard up for water. Sent _Wolverine_ to her
assistance.

[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]

No use fretting about the wind. Hardly consider myself as homeward
bound until round Acheen Head.

[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]

Decided, against Master, on southern passage, and anchored off Penang
at sunset. Went to Captain’s house, the most comfortable quarters in
India. Issued invitations: “Captain Keppel and officers request the
pleasure of everybody’s company to-morrow evening.” Dined with Sir
William and Lady Norris. Mrs. Hall at home.

[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]

Visited various hospitals with Cantor--one of lunatics of all sorts.
Got “Chopsticks” from school. Dined with old Lewis. Capital ball and
supper given by “Didos.” Kept up till daylight did appear.

[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]

Weighed before turning in; very seedy, though. Fort saluted me with 13
guns. Really off for home.

[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]

Lots of talk about the ball; everybody pleased.

[Sidenote: Nov. 5.]

One of the invalids from _Driver_ died--a young man; the effects of
Hong Kong climate. Committed his remains to the deep. Sensible to the
last that he was going, but did not seem to trouble himself as to the
road; a good man, too, in his way.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

Anniversary of the birthday of Princess Royal. Run of 251 miles in last
twenty-four hours.

[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Dec. 4.]

My cabin-meeting of the fine arts. Inglefield doing me pictures of my
_Dido_. Ran into Simon’s Bay with a leading wind, saluting the flag of
my kind friend Sir Jos. Percy, of Mediterranean memory, whose flag was
now flying on board _Winchester_--Captain Charles Eden. Found George
Woodhouse here in the _Thunderbolt_, 6, a steam vessel. In fact, I felt
myself already at home--scarcely a stone on shore that did not convey
some pleasant reminiscence of happy days. In every house a home. While
refitting I had scarcely time to call on half my kind friends. Among
those I undertook to entertain at my table, in addition to my two
passengers, was Edward Drummond, a nephew of the Admiral, and about
to enter the Church. [Years afterwards I was his guest at Cadland,
Southampton, and he the head of the great Drummond Bank at Charing
Cross.] My other guest, a quiet, retiring Swede, who had served his
term in our service, by name Adleborg, a clever artist as well as a
good fellow.

[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]

Luncheon with Lady Sarah Maitland--like the Lennoxes, nice family. At
Wynberg; a very agreeable dinner and evening. Kerr Hamilton there.

[Sidenote: Dec. 18.]

Ship ready. Stopped to luncheon with Admiral at one. Went over
_Winchester_: nice order and beautifully clean. My _Dido_ under way,
Charles Eden putting me on board. Outside, a freshening breeze from
the south-east, but we had to weather the Cape. Topgallant sails over
double-reefed topsails; a strong set against us. It was not until
close to the Anvil and Bellows that we felt the full strength of the
current. The Master and self had taken our position on the forecastle,
each holding on to the up-and-down part of the fore-topsail sheets,
spray breaking over us. We now became aware of what we had undertaken.
On looking under the foot of the fore-sail, the Cape and South Africa
appeared to be rushing at us: it was too late either to bear up or
attempt to tack. Held on, I am afraid, with eyes closed. The Master
was the first to call out, “Wave weathered”; the offset from the rocky
Cape alone saved us: we appeared to be rushing up the west side of the
African coast. On the weather-quarter the Cape appeared close to, but
towering far above our mast-heads. By degrees, but slowly, we drew off
the west coast. I do not believe that any other ship could, under the
circumstances, have been saved.

[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]

Adleborg a first-rate artist, clever at allegorical sketches of _Dido_,
which I value; very clever and witty they are.

[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]

2 A.M.--Anchored at St. Helena. Visited old Solomon and his shop; also
Colonel and Mrs. Trelawney. Weighed at 1.30 P.M. According to notice,
made sail 3 P.M. Found _Larne_ and _Rapid_.

[Sidenote: 1845. Jan. 13.]

Sails splitting and ropes giving way; foolish economy, ships not being
better supplied.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

Breeze freshening up; thermometer falling; bitter cold, hazy weather.
Hauled in; made the land to the eastward of Bill of Portland; bore up
for the Needles: arrived at Spithead. Reported myself to my old friend
Hyde Parker, Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard, Commander-in-Chief
Sir Charles Rowley being on leave. It was blowing fresh from the S.E.,
but having an experienced pilot, gave the Master leave to stay on shore
the night, and sent my gig on board.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

Admiral Parker said I had better call in the afternoon, as he had
telegraphed to the Admiralty. I then visited my old friend Casher, the
wine merchant, and inquired if he knew anything of the whereabouts of
my wife, as he had always forwarded parcels between us. He informed me
that she had come home from Boulogne: only two days ago he had sent
parcels to my place at Droxford, where she had joined her father, who,
with his family, had taken possession.

The days were short, and it was dark before I got back to the Admiral;
he informed me that _Dido_ was ordered to Sheerness. I ventured to
state that I had ordered my gig on board. He said: “I have anticipated
that; you will find the _Fanny_ tender fast to a buoy at the harbour,
with orders to take you off.”

Now this _was_ a go; I had been more than four years absent: my wife
within thirteen miles.

I went to Casher’s and inquired if he had a man acquainted with
Gosport, or any one who could find a Mr. Allen, Master of the _Dido_,
and bring him to me. I waited a good while, in cocked hat, sword, and
epaulettes, before the poor Master appeared in pea-jacket and oilskin,
etc. I soon explained the state of affairs.

He was just about my size. It ended by my saying that he must change
clothes with me. The _Fanny_ was waiting at the buoy. He would
personate me, find orders on board, and obey them. Allen muttered
something about losing my commission. We went off in a wherry. On
his getting on board he received his orders, opened and read them. I
touched my hat, and said “Goodbye, Sir,” and told the waterman to land
me at Gosport. Reached Droxford in time for dinner! Brother-in-law soon
rigged me in proper costume.

Following morning took wife and self off in a yellow post-chaise, but
my danger of being found out was not over. The Captain Superintendent,
W. H. Shireff, was an old friend of mine; fond of driving a team of
horses, and we used to think he managed it in a seamanlike way.

[Sidenote: Sheerness, Jan. 28.]

When we arrived at the dockyard gates it was luckily quite dark. Drove
to the Superintendent’s house and took him at once into my confidence.

[Sidenote: Jan. 29.]

No news of _Dido_! Shireff gave us a steamer to Sheerness. Took a fly
to the pilot, where we had lodged while fitting out.

[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]

It was the third night before _Dido_ arrived, when, in the early
morning, the good pilot Taylor took me off and I returned the Master
his hat and pea-jacket. Soon after 8 A.M. reported arrival of _Dido_ to
Vice-Admiral Sir John Chambers, K.C.B.

[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]

My _Dido_ inspected for last time by Admiral Sir John White. Very cold
and rainy weather. Men showed themselves well to the last. My brother
Tom came down.

[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]

Getting on with the dismantling. Went on board with Tom and wife.
Bitter cold weather. Tom stopping with us--affectionate, good fellow.

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

Preparations for paying progressing. Dirty and bitter cold weather
continuing. Custom House people troublesome. Smuggling progressing.
Paying off days much alike!

[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]

My reign in _Dido_ finished this morning. Paid off, men receiving
about £4000. Glad as I am to get back, I do not leave my ship without
feelings of regret.




CHAPTER XXXV

ENGLAND


[Sidenote: 1845. Feb. 12.]

_Dido_ paid off. Arrived with wife in London to enjoy half-pay! My
father living in Berkeley Square, we knew where to find a dinner.

[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]

Summoned to Admiralty. Gracious reception by Lord Haddington.

[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]

News from Brooke. Labuan ceded to the British Government. Brooke had
entrusted me with his private diary, and a _carte-blanche_ to use my
discretion about publishing--a more responsible charge than I was then
aware of. I had a friend, Jerdan, editor of the _Court Journal_. After
consultations it was decided to publish, under the title of “Expedition
to Borneo of H.M.S. _Dido_.”

[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]

At my brother-in-law, Stephenson’s, in Arlington Street, always had a
bed.

[Sidenote: Woolwich, Feb. 23.]

To Woolwich to see Commodore Sir Francis Collier, in charge of the
dockyard, his broad pennant flying on the _William and Mary_ yacht.
Visited also George Goldsmith, now married, living there.

[Sidenote: Mar. 3.]

Went to Portsmouth on a visit to my late Chief, Admiral Hyde Parker and
his charming family. Remained a week.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

Attended levee with Granville Loch. Presented by Sir William Parker on
return from China. Her Majesty said something nice to me, which, in my
nervousness, I was sorry not to have heard.

[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]

My Mids, D’Aeth and Jenkins, passed first and second out of the lot at
Portsmouth. My father gave me the copy of a correspondence between Lord
Haddington and himself about my being the only Captain not recommended
for the C.B. Lord Haddington wrote: “Captain Keppel’s ship had not been
under fire in action.” Father stated that _Dido_ was not the only ship.
Lord Haddington replied: “It is evident you allude to the _Endymion_,
Captain Grey, whose name had been mentioned to General Sir Hugh Gough
by Brigadier-General Schoedde.” Father could not help thinking it
was a hard case, which Lord Haddington admitted, and promised that
my name should be down for the first vacancy. I mention this here,
as the subject was alluded to years afterwards. Sir Grey Skipwith,
recollecting my weakness, offered me a mount with the Warwickshire
Hounds, and before leaving town I dined with that distinguished
soldier, Sir William Keir Grant.

[Sidenote: Mar. 26.]

Quickly found my way to Newbold Hall. Sir Grey and his large family
charming as ever.

[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]

Started from stables, the usual dozen red coats. Meet at Shuckborough,
found at Cranborough. Got away with the first flight. Not recollecting
the country, found myself with about a score charging the river Leam.
Reached opposite bank, which was rotten. Fell back and found the
bottom. I believe only two got out safe. My new pink came out black.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

Back to London to dine with Sir Thomas Trowbridge.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

To Greenwich by rail, to dine in hospital with that grand old Admiral,
Sir Robert Stopford, his happy lady and family looking so well.

[Sidenote: April 11.]

Templer and I enjoyed an excellent dinner Jerdan gave us at the Garrick
Club.

[Sidenote: April 24.]

Mr. Edward Ellice kindly lent us his house, 18 Arlington Street.
Admiral and Mrs. Sam Rowley dined with us on their way through London,
she informing me I was left in his will, heir and executor.

[Sidenote: May 2.]

We attended the Queen’s Drawing-Room.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

Lunched with the Hawleys, who had established themselves in Halkin
Street. He had a charming yacht, the _Mischief_, with a woman for
figurehead, which his wife disapproved of. An image of a monkey was
executed to replace the lady; but there was so much trouble and legal
expense in changing a figurehead, that the monkey was transferred to a
box seat over my coach-house door. As I had no carriage the groom was
not jealous.

[Sidenote: May 19.]

Archie MacDonald dined with us prior to the Queen’s Ball. On that
occasion, although an old Fusilier Guardsman, he hid himself behind a
screen till the ceremony was over.

[Sidenote: Droxford, May 22.]

Glad to take possession of our snug little place at Droxford. A
four-horse coach running between Gosport and London passed our door
twice daily: a great convenience. William Garnier’s place, Rooksbury
Park, was within two miles of us.

[Sidenote: July 3.]

In London met Sir Henry Pottinger: had a walk and a talk about China
times.

[Sidenote: Droxford, July 9.]

Arthur Cunynghame, our China friend, came to stay with us. Also Fred
Horton.

[Sidenote: July 15.]

Met George Delmé at the station. With niece to see departure of the
fleet from Spithead. Too late to get out, so took a cruise in the
Freemart Fair.

[Sidenote: July 28.]

At Cams. In Delmé’s drag to Goodwood Races. Delmé Radcliffe, Onslow,
the two Foleys, etc. My father being of the Goodwood party, wife and I
were invited into the Duke’s end of the grand stand. Unaccustomed to
racing society, my wife was a trifle nervous. However, observing my
father in deep conversation with a light weight in a blue coat with
brass buttons, yellow, leathers and mahogany tops, she inquired of Lady
Albemarle if that was His Lordship’s jockey. To which this amiable lady
replied in a loud voice: “No, my dear. That is the Duke of Bedford.”

[Sidenote: July 29.]

In Delmé’s drag. Ten outside!

[Sidenote: July 30.]

The great Cup Day. Twenty-one horses started.

[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]

Concluded a splendid week’s racing.

[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]

We left London for Quidenham. Glad to be where I had passed my youth.
The dear old father, no longer able to shoot, had taken to breeding
bloodstock. The park near the river was cut into paddocks, where I saw
some promising youngsters for the Derby. I was not sorry when Lady
Albemarle inquired of my wife how long we were going to stay. We had
some dear old friends in the neighbourhood: Partridges, Surtees, Eyres,
and others. Went to Hockham on the 22nd.

[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]

A day in London on business. By rail to Chesterford, and chaise to my
friend Alexander Cotton: the same who, as a lieutenant, was capsized
with me at the mouth of Portsmouth Harbour in October 1830, he
having now succeeded to the Hildersham property. Cotton’s house very
comfortable; his claret uncommon good.

[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]

Rode after breakfast to Newmarket. In my father’s stables saw
“Emperor,” “Smuggler Bill,” “Little Dorrit,” “Sir Rupert.”

[Sidenote: Oct. 2.]

Cotton and self to Newmarket.

[Sidenote: Oct. 3.]

Left Cotton to visit the Partridges at Hockham. Met at Harling Road by
my old shipmate George Partridge.

[Sidenote: Oct. 4.]

Out shooting. I killed eleven partridges and one pheasant.

[Sidenote: Oct. 6.]

Champion Partridge came over. With the exception of a couple of days
with George Birche’s Harriers had a capital week’s shooting.

[Sidenote: Oct. 12.]

Walked over to Larling Parsonage, where I found my old friend Colonel
Eyre, 98th, with his brother Edward the clergyman.

[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]

George Wodehouse, Charles Partridge, and I rode over to Quidenham to
see the brood-mares and young stock. Left Hockham for London. I was now
in possession of a couple of hunters. Intending to enjoy myself, sent
them on to Newbold, having business in London.

[Sidenote: Oct. 26.]

From London by rail, in company with Joseph Hawley, George Payne,
Shelley, Greville, and other turf men to Chesterford. They to
Newmarket. I to friend Cotton.

[Sidenote: Hildersham, Oct. 27.]

To Newmarket. Racing particularly good. Cambridgeshire stakes won by
“Alum.” Twenty-eight started, beating “Baron,” the winner of St. Leger,
and Cæsarwitch, etc.

[Sidenote: Oct. 30.]

This morning’s racing good. Backed my father’s colt “Radulphus” in the
Glasgow, and lost my money.

[Sidenote: Newbold, Nov. 7.]

Went with Harry Skipwith to Warwickshire Hunt; meet at Stonleigh Park,
a beautiful place. Next day to see the Athelstane; meet at the Cross.
Some pretty fencing from cover to cover and plenty of foxes.

[Sidenote: Nov. 10.]

Sent horses to Leighton Buzzard. A hearty welcome by Delmé Radcliffe at
Hitchin Priory. The Eliot Yorkes staying there.

[Sidenote: Nov. 12.]

Having sent horses on with Delmé Radcliffe, to Brand’s hounds, Delmé
having been Master of Hounds was proud to mount “Heki,” and delighted
with him, as I was with my “Tom.” The run good for this country. We
went and returned in a yellow post-chaise.

[Sidenote: Hitchin Priory, Nov. 15.]

Mounted by Radcliffe. Went with the Harriers on his “Touch-and-Go”;
supposed to be the best pack of the sort in England. Good for pastime,
but it does not do after fox-hunting.

[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]

With Brand’s hounds: rode “Heki,” nothing particular by way of a run.
Pleased with my horse though.

[Sidenote: Nov. 20.]

Harriers met at the Priory. Pretty and fast thing. Radcliffe hunting
them.

[Sidenote: Nov. 21.]

With Brand’s hounds. Rode “Tom.” Found at Boxwood. Good run of 52
minutes. Was to the front the whole time. Radcliffe got the brush for
my wife in commemoration of “Tom’s” performances. Killed at Yardley.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

A right good run on “Heki” with the Harriers.

[Sidenote: Nov. 25.]

In afternoon rode “Tom” with the Harriers and had an excellent run of
50 minutes, the hare running better than many foxes.

[Sidenote: Nov. 26.]

Sent “Heki” on to meet the Cambridgeshire at Shear Hutch. Sharp run
over heavy country. I got the brush.

[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]

No meet. Rode to see the Charles Radcliffes at Halwell.

[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]

With Radcliffe to meet the Puckeridge at Bedlington: a sharp thing. Got
a cropper, but was in time to get the brush.

[Sidenote: Gilston Park, Dec. 1.]

By rail to Burnt Mill, where I met Henry Seymour and Brice Pearse, who
took us to Gilston Park, a nice old place he had hired for farming
purposes.

[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]

Seymour and myself to meet the Puckeridge Hounds at Pelham. Rode
“Heki”: a good gallop, leaving off fourteen miles from home.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

With Brice Pearse to a city stable. Ostler brought out an Irish
chestnut mare just under fifteen hands. On my inquiring if she could
jump, a six-barred gate was placed across the paved passage road
leading to the stables, which she jumped without trouble or hesitation.
I paid £23 for her, and named her “Ticket” because she cleared the
gates. She could not walk, but persevered in a jog trot to the end of
the longest day. End of season, sold her for £70 to the Pytchley Hunt
for a whip’s horse.

[Sidenote: Dec. 5.]

An idle day; mostly passed in the stable. Rode Pearse’s pony to Harlow
with Henry Seymour.

[Sidenote: Dec. 6.]

Henry Seymour and I posted twenty-two miles to meet of Puckeridge
Hounds. Had sent “Heki” on; a good run well worth the distance.

[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]

By early train to London and on from Euston Square to Catton Hall. Fred
Horton met us at the station.

[Sidenote: Catton Hall, Dec. 9.]

Catton, a nice old place. Pretty grounds--good stabling. Drove with
Fred Horton in a dogcart. Granville Loch arrived.

[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]

Four guns. Bromley, Horton, Loch, and self to shoot. Pretty shooting:
42 head returned. I bagged 2 rabbits, 5 pheasants, and 11 hares. Fred
Horton shot, as he thought, a hare creeping in a hedge, which proved to
be a fox. Gave one of the beaters half a sovereign to bury it!

[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]

Stormy morning. Rode “Ticket” to meet of Meynall Ingram’s hounds at
Gorsley Ley. Found immediately; was fortunate in getting well away.
Pretty run for some twelve miles in an enclosed country. Long ride
home.

[Sidenote: Catton Hall, Dec. 12.]

The Donnington Hounds met near Derby; rode over to Osmaston to dine and
sleep.

[Sidenote: Dec. 13.]

Sat with Lady Wilmot. My China boy “Chopsticks” much grown and very
spoiled.

[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]

After breakfast rode back to Catton by Twyford Ferry: best road for
riding.

[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]

Ingram Meynall’s hounds meeting at Drakelow. Mr. and Lady Sophia De
Veux. Rode “Ticket”: bad scenting day, and huntsmen no great things.
Ergo no run; though a find at Drakelow.

[Sidenote: Dec. 17.]

Rode “Heki” with the Atherstone. Meet at Warton; much pleasanter having
a companion to ride to covert with. Two good runs; though a rainy
afternoon.

[Sidenote: Catton, Dec. 18.]

General A’Court to dinner with a handsome daughter.

[Sidenote: Newbold, Dec. 20.]

Took leave of Lady and Miss Horton. I rode “Heki”; groom on “Ticket”
to Osmaston. Fred Horton took care of wife by rail. Lord John Russell
unable to form a ministry.

[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]

Christmas Day. My first in England for some time.

[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]

The Donnington Hounds met at Cork Park. A beautiful place belonging to
Sir John Crewe. “Ticket” fell at a fence and gave me a cropper.

[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]

Wife to Newbold Vicarage. I on to London, _en route_ for Hockham.




CHAPTER XXXVI

SHORE TIME--STUDY STEAM


[Sidenote: 1846. Jan. 1.]

At Hockham shooting.

[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]

By rail to Rugby and on to Newbold.

[Sidenote: Jan. 10.]

Mounted Grey Skipwith. Hunt with the Atherstone at Coombe Abbey. A
goodish run. “Heki” a trifle lame.

[Sidenote: Jan. 12.]

Departure of Skipwiths in various directions, preparatory to the
Warwickshire Hunt Ball.

[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]

Grey, Sidmouth, and I to meet the Pytchley at Crick. Certainly the
finest run I had witnessed; George Payne giving me the brush.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

Went shares in a pair of posters with Grey Skipwith to meet the
Warwickshire at Shuckborough. “Ticket” sent on from Newbold. Found, and
fell at a brook.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

At Admiralty. Saw Lord Haddington. By steam to Woolwich. Only time to
look at _Terrible_ of large dimensions. Dined with Frank Collier.

[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]

Breakfast with Tufnell and Fred Horton. Attended dinner given by Naval
Club to Lord Haddington on leaving Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Jan. 29.]

Up early for Rugby, where I had “Ticket” and hunting things sent. With
the Warwickshire Hounds. Meet at Dunchurch. Capital run. Returned to
Newbold.

[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]

Rode “Heki” with Grey Skipwith to Leamington. Took his mare and £30 in
exchange for “Ticket.”

[Sidenote: Leamington, Feb. 2.]

“Heki” falling lame, left him at Leamington and returned by rail to
Rugby.

[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]

Took leave of Newbold. Established ourselves in lodgings at Leamington,
for wife to be near Doctor Jephson. Horses at Stanley’s. “Heki” still
lame.

[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]

[Sidenote: Feb. 7.]

Grey Skipwith came to dine and sleep. Letter from Mrs. Rowley
announcing death of grand old Admiral Sir Josias, and enclosing a copy
of his will, in which, should he survive his wife, after legacies, he
had left everything to me--a kindness I had no right to expect.

[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]

Leamington full of lame hunters. By train to London.

[Sidenote: London, Feb. 11.]

Horton appointed to command of _Cygnet_, 6 gun brig, on coast of
Africa. Attended levee of First Lord.

[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]

Great naval dinner at Thatched House Club. Prince George of Cambridge
there.

[Sidenote: Feb. 13.]

Eleven train to Leamington. Wife better.

[Sidenote: Leamington, Feb. 18.]

Rode with Grey Skipwith to see the Steeplechase at Southam. An amusing
scene, but Leamington is not the most amusing place for a man who
cannot keep horses.

[Sidenote: Feb. 21.]

Sold “Heki” for £15. Once refused 100 guineas!!

[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]

Dined with First Lord of the Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

By steamboat to see Frank Collier at Woolwich. He, Nic Lockyer,
and I went over the _Terrible_, an enormous vessel, 1847 tons, 800
horse-power.

[Sidenote: London, Mar. 4.]

News from the Enlightened States. More warlike than ever. Lost no time
in tendering services to Lord Ellenborough.

[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]

Met Sir Charles Fitzroy, with boys, Augustus and George, grown into
men: little Mary into a tall handsome mother of three children.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

At Leamington. Dined at Lady Farnham’s: grub good, but seven ladies!!
Saunders and self only gentlemen.

[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]

To Coventry races. Racing good as far as horses being well matched.
Rough attendance.

[Sidenote: Leamington, Mar. 18.]

Sported phaeton and pair of horses for the three days’ racing.

Delmé Radcliffe, Gore, and two Skipwiths to dine with us.

[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]

Steeplechase Day. Leamington full of ’legs and all sorts of rogues.
Party of six to dine. “Grand, for us!” First-rate steeplechase.

[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]

Acted as chaperon to Amelia Williams; she riding Wood’s horse.
Warwickshire meet at Stonleigh, afterwards steeplechase at Southam.

[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]

Bury came to us from London to go to the second ball: he dancing mad.

[Sidenote: Leamington, Mar. 23.]

A good steeplechase at Warwick--country heavy--“Pioneer” winning--a
splendid horse.

[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]

Mounted J. Wood to see the meet at Ladbrook.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Dining with Stephenson, Fox Maule, Lord Ebrington, Maria, and brother
Edward.

[Sidenote: London, Mar. 27.]

Dined with the Duchess of Inverness; large party.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

Talk with Lord Francis Egerton about Brooke and Borneo. _Constance_
frigate offered to Walker, who appears undecided. Dined with the
Hawleys--family party. That beast “Chow” dying.

[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]

Went to Woolwich to look for lodgings for my studying steam. By Frank
Collier’s advice closed with a Captain Dwyer--not much; however, the
best.

[Sidenote: London, Mar. 30.]

Took leave of Fred Horton at the club, lucky that he has not more than
a year to run in _Cygnet_ on the coast. Dined with Ralph Brandling;
Adelphi afterwards.

[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]

By express to Portsmouth. Dined with the Hyde Parkers in Dockyard;
Admiral in great form.

[Sidenote: Leamington, April 19.]

Dined with the Gores, who have been very kind to us. Fare-thee-well
Leamington. With horses and money I should find you more agreeable.

[Sidenote: April 23.]

Took departure for London. Letter from Brooke, and news from Borneo not
pleasing to Wise. Government slow in acting for him. To Droxford by 3
P.M. train.

[Sidenote: May 1.]

Took our departure from our snug little Droxford. In London by 2 P.M.
Got Mrs. Rowley her pension at Admiralty. To Woolwich by steamer. Took
up quarters in Captain Dwyer’s house. Wife not taken with our new abode.

[Sidenote: May 3.]

To church in a sail-loft in the Dockyard. Went to Greenwich in the
afternoon: looked at houses.

[Sidenote: May 5.]

To Greenwich. Decided on No. 17 Croom’s Hill at £150 per annum; nice
situation, looking into the Park.

[Sidenote: May 6.]

Letter from Commander Dwyer refusing to let me off under three months’
rent! Unlucky dog that I am, £36 thrown away. So much for having to
deal with a gentleman.

[Sidenote: May 8.]

To see the Horse Artillery exercise. Edward Coke and Sir E. Poore to
call; they going to West Indies in June for amusement.

[Sidenote: May 9.]

To London. Saw my father; well in health; going to Newmarket.

[Sidenote: May 12.]

Receiving a letter from Sir William Symonds, asking if he might
nominate me to command his _Spartan_, started for Somerset House, and
found from Edge that I was wanted, as in case of _Constance_, as a
second string to his bow.

[Sidenote: May 15.]

Attended the meeting of the Committee for the Foundation of a Church
Mission-House and School in Borneo. Some large subscriptions received.

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Again over to Greenwich; hard bargain with Mrs. Kemp. Georgie Crosbie
and early dinner.

[Sidenote: May 23.]

Took my first lesson in steam at Woolwich.

Hearing that a foreigner was inquiring after me, avoided him; it turned
out afterwards to be an old Spanish friend, General Mazzerado of
Barcelona, who stopped to dinner.

By Templer heard of a most diabolical massacre committed in Borneo
Proper.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

Commencing steam study in earnest.

A Princess born. (Princess Helena.)

[Sidenote: May 26.]

Breakfast at half-past eight. Start at nine to be in Dockyard by ten.
Pleasant enough while the weather is fine. Dined at Greenwich Hospital
with Sir Robert Stopford to celebrate Her Majesty’s birthday. Pleasant
party.

[Sidenote: May 27.]

Derby Day, and I not there. Won by Mr. Gully’s “Phyrrus.”

[Sidenote: May 28.]

The sad news of the massacre of Rajah Muda Hassim and family, and his
gallant brother, Budrudeen.

[Sidenote: June 2.]

Greenwich Fair. Joined George King and his party in a small Whitebait
dinner at the “Crown and Sceptre.” Paraded the Fair afterwards.

[Sidenote: June 11.]

Dined with Sir James Gordon, Lieutenant-Governor of Greenwich Hospital.
Though he lost a leg in Hostes’ _Lissa_ frigate action, Gordon
frequently walks from London.

[Sidenote: London, June 13.]

Attended the wedding of Amelia Williams and Mark Wood--also to
_déjeûner_ given by the Bulkeleys. Lovely day; pretty wedding; good
breakfast; everything right.

[Sidenote: June 14.]

Early dinner with the Hawleys. Tattersalls and Park afterwards.

[Sidenote: June 15.]

To Woolwich Dockyard, Dined with Colonel Parker to meet kind friend,
his brother, the Admiral.

[Sidenote: June 16.]

Dined with Commander and Mrs. Dalyell in the Hospital. He was for nine
years a prisoner of war at Verdun; released when Napoleon I. went to
Elba. Anyone interested in the record of a sailor’s life during the
end of the last century and early part of this should read that of
my old friend, who was now a pensioner, with apartments in Greenwich
Hospital.[1]

[1] See O’Byrne’s _Naval Biographies_, 1848.

The Dalyells are kind people and have exceedingly good taste.

[Sidenote: June 17.]

To Woolwich by steam, meeting on board _Lord Selkirk_, Captain Ross,
and Ranelagh. Went to Arsenal. Georgie and Jack Crosbie and Grey
Skipwith to dine.

[Sidenote: June 18.]

An impertinent letter from Wise: answered him.

[Sidenote: June 19.]

To Woolwich by steam.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

Called on Sir James Gordon and on Sir Watkin Pell.

Sir Watkin Pell--a wooden leg, and a wonderful clever pony on which he
used to ride on a three-plank bridge when visiting ships fitting out in
dock.

[Sidenote: June 24.]

Dined at the Stopfords.

[Sidenote: June 25.]

Dined in London with my father; returning afterwards to Greenwich.

[Sidenote: June 27.]

We went to see the muster of Greenwich schoolboys. Interesting sight.
800 of them dining in same room. Ministers about to resign.

[Sidenote: June 30.]

Represented Brooke at the christening of Templer’s boy, named James
Lethbridge Brooke.

[Sidenote: July. 13.]

Business at Admiralty. Saw Lord Auckland about Borneo.

[Sidenote: July. 16.]

Concocted a letter for Lord Auckland, recommending possession of Labuan.

[Sidenote: July 17.]

Capital dinner with Sir Watkin Pell. To the Artillery ball at Woolwich.
Nothing could be better done.

[Sidenote: July. 21.]

Dined with Sir Robert Stopford. Greenwich ball in the evening; very
good.

[Sidenote: July. 24.]

To London with Jack Templer to see Lord Auckland concerning Brooke.

Very mysterious. Government evidently doing something. Afraid, I think,
of Mr. Hume.

[Sidenote: July. 29.]

To steam studies. Met Board of Admiralty in the Dockyard. Received
intimation that my services would be again required in Borneo.

[Sidenote: July. 30.]

Skipwith and ourselves to dine with the Newdigates, who have pretty
place at Blackheath.

[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]

After studies visited famous mulberry tree in Collier’s garden.

[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]

Students in steam met at Blackwall to examine the machinery of the _Sir
Henry Pottinger_, a merchant steamer.

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

Accompanied Captain Stewart in the Trinity yacht to meet the Admiralty
Board at Gravesend to inspect several plans for lights to be carried by
steamers at sea to prevent collision.

[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]

Invited Roberts to dinner, to meet Edward Rice, who did not arrive
until late.

Rice to join _Amphion_ should I get her!

[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]

At Admiralty to stop Comber being sent off to sea. Partly succeeded.
Came back to dine with Sir Watkin Pell.

[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]

Woolwich, preparatory to being examined by Lloyd. Passed an hour in
the Superintendent’s mulberry tree!

[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]

By Gravesend steamer to Purfleet, where Sir Thomas Lennard sent his
carriage to take us to Belhus for three days; brother Tom having
married his daughter. Large party; hearty welcome. This is a nice
old-fashioned place. Our room the one in which Queen Elizabeth slept.

[Sidenote: Sept. 9.]

After luncheon we were taken a drive with the team round the country.
Went to Mr. Tower’s place: he has some fine old pictures.

[Sidenote: Sept. 10.]

Took leave; pony carriage taking us to Gray’s Pier. Embarked for
Blackwall loaded with game and fruit.

[Sidenote: Sept. 17.]

I dined with the Artillery mess at Woolwich.

[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]

To London to attend Borneo Church Mission. Capture of Brunei. Saw
Mundy’s letter to Baillie Hamilton at the Admiralty relative to the
affairs there.

On return found Edward Rice from Dane Court.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

To Admiralty to deposit with Lord Auckland my father’s correspondence
with Lord Haddington relative to my not getting the C.B.

[Sidenote: Sept. 28.]

We took the two charming Dalyell girls to the Woolwich Garrison races.
Very good fun: heats and that sort of thing; gentlemen riders.

[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]

Visited Sir Samuel Brown of chain-cable notoriety, and saw several
ingenious inventions.

[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]

To London. Wife on a visit to the Roes at Fulham.

Among the intimate friends of the Crosbie family were Sir Frederick
and Lady Roe. His father was a well-to-do merchant residing in the
City. My father amused me with the following:--As Master of the House
he had to attend State occasions. On going to the City, Sir Frederick
Roe was so active with his mounted police as to draw the attention of
His Majesty, who inquired who he was. Father informed the King that
it was Sir Frederick Roe, the Head of the Police. His Majesty noticed
another officer equally active, and very like Sir Frederick, who my
father informed His Majesty was a younger brother, likewise in the
Police, who helped his brother on these occasions, and they went by
the name of “Hard” Roe and “Soft” Roe. This amused His Majesty so much
that he wanted to know about the father. This rather puzzled my parent,
who, having volunteered so much, did not like to plead ignorance, but
answered “They call him, Sir, Paternoster Row!”

[Sidenote: Oct. 8.]

Ascertained at the Admiralty they had no idea of forming a Settlement
on the Bornean coast.

Power of a “wise” confidential agent beginning to tell.

[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]

To Ranelagh House, Fulham, to join wife at Sir Frederick and Lady Roe’s.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

Having been invited by Sir Charles and Lady Mary Fox to dinner at
Addison Road, sent to Greenwich for clothes. Wife dining with the
Dalyells.

[Sidenote: London, Oct. 16.]

Found letter at club from Symonds, stating that he had applied to Lord
Auckland to appoint me to _Cambrian_ for trial with Thetis.

Dined with Sir Robert Stopford; a large party.

[Sidenote: Oct. 17.]

To Admiralty to inquire about the _Cambrian_; find I am the favourite,
Lord Auckland hovering between Smith and myself for the appointment.

[Sidenote: Oct. 21.]

Dined on Guard at St. James’ with Colonel Codrington.

[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]

Nothing decided about _Cambrian_, Lord Auckland waiting for Sir Charles
Adam’s opinion. Still hope.

Dined at the Newdigates.

[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]

Reports of my appointment to _Cambrian_; hope they may prove true.
Stephenson writing to thank Lord Auckland.

Dined with John Doyle and Lady Susan North.

[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]

To see Admiral Dundas. Early proposal of appointing me to _Amphion_. No
fancy for her, while there is a chance of _Cambrian_.

We dined at Colonel Parker’s. On return found letter from Dundas, a
damper on hopes of _Cambrian_.

[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]

Baillie Hamilton in the Rangers’ House. Commander Henry Eden married to
Miss Rivers. Wish to get Lieutenant Rivers as my First.

[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]

Dined with Lord Auckland.

[Sidenote: Dane Court, Oct. 31.]

At Dane Court with the Rices; like Dane Court and all its people.
Everybody receiving me so kindly; the children too, as if they had
known me all their lives.

[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]

A walk with Fanny and Anne in forenoon. Afternoon to Dover. Saw 43rd
and H. Skipwith inspected on the heights.

[Sidenote: Nov. 4.]

Received twelve guineas due to members of Old Navy Club, Bond Street.
Retirement list out, of 180 Captains.

[Sidenote: Nov. 5.]

Dined with my father. Shireff wanting me as Flag-Captain.

[Sidenote: Nov. 6.]

To Woolwich to see Sir Frank Collier for last time as a Commodore.

[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]

Dined in London with Stephenson. Meeting Hastie and Sir John Hobhouse.

[Sidenote: Nov. 9.]

Lord Mayor’s Day. Promotion in Army and Navy. Dined with Admiral
Dundas. Large party at Lord Auckland’s in the evening.

[Sidenote: Nov. 10.]

Club full in anxious expectation of “Gazette.” The greatest boon that
has been granted to the Navy.

Dined with General Mundy and family. Disappointed about the promotions.

[Sidenote: Nov. 16.]

Dined with Sir Robert Stopford.

[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]

Farewell dinner with the Dalyells. We have been treated at Greenwich
with the greatest kindness and hospitality.

[Sidenote: Nov. 19.]

Dined at Club. A meeting of old “Magiciennes,” Plumridge, Knox, Forbes.

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Called for Stephenson at the Excise: with him to Cambridge, where,
after having enjoyed much worth seeing, dined with Henry Coke: Augustus
Stephenson and young Lord Durham of the party.

We slept at the University Arms.

[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]

Visited my brother George at his office, Downing Street. Chance of my
being appointed to _Amphitrite_. Returned with Pearse to Gilston.

[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]

Brice Pearse mounting me; after several hours, without finding,
finished with a fast twenty minutes with Conyer’s hounds. In first at
the death, and got the brush.

[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]

Party to shoot. Keeper reserved best ground until too dark--only a
small bag.

[Sidenote: Elsenham, Dec. 3.]

Took leave, after luncheon, of our friends. On a visit to the Rushs at
Elsenham: a pretty place. Much taste and considerable expense in the
making.

H. Byng, _alias_ “Buckets,” with his wife to dinner.

[Sidenote: Newbold, Dec. 5.]

By early train to London. In time to leave Euston Square for Newbold by
eleven o’clock.

[Sidenote: Dec. 12.]

Sharp frost. Hunters more expense than profit.

[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]

Enjoyed Christmas at Newbold, sitting down twenty all told. Sir
Grey presiding. Eight sons, five daughters, two husbands and wives
and ourselves. The younger son--a nervous boy, studying for Holy
Orders--was called on to say grace; after hesitation got up and said:
“For what we are going to receive, the Lord have mercy on us.” A more
cheery Christmas could not be.

Having business in London, and hoping for employment, left my poor
invalid under care of the celebrated Doctor Jephson, at Leamington.

[Sidenote: Dec. 28.]

To my second home, the Stephensons in Arlington Street.

Dinner off Norfolk turkey, and a hot devil by sister.

[Sidenote: Dec. 29.]

At Hockham shooting, with the Partridges, Charles, George, Paterson,
and self. Shot with my new Westley-Richards. Much pleased with it.




CHAPTER XXXVII

SHORE TIME


[Sidenote: 1847. Jan. 2.]

As brother Tom could not, with increasing family, come to me, I went to
his parsonage at Creake in Norfolk, where we were joined by my other
clergyman brother Edward. Creake only a walk from Holkham.

This entailed visits to other dear friends; but as these have not much
to do with the promised sailor’s life, must not detain readers.

[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]

_Sunday._--Both brothers preached; I suppose the elder had choice.
Reserved opinion.

Recollect some time ago, when brother Edward preached at Quidenham,
venturing to remark that his sermon was rather lengthy. He replied: “It
now lies at the bottom of a heap and you won’t hear it again for three
years.”

[Sidenote: Jan. 5, Holkham.]

Went out, fifteen guns, 1085 head.

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

Drove back with Napier, rector at Holkham, elder brother of Brooke’s
Singapore friend.

[Sidenote: Jan. 7, Holkham.]

Shooting the end of the park in the direction of Warham; twelve guns,
973 head.

[Sidenote: Jan. 8.]

Another good day’s shooting; 1073 head.

[Sidenote: Jan. 9.]

News of the safety of Edward Coke, who had been buffalo-shooting in the
United States. Never once doubted it.

[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]

Tom and I drove to cousin Fred Keppel’s at Lexham, about eighteen
miles. Hearty welcome. No better fellows than Fred and Edward Keppel,
“the Cheeryble Brothers.”

[Sidenote: Lexham, Jan. 12.]

Went out to enjoy the best shooting Fred had left. Six guns: Fred
Fitzroy, Derrick Hoste, Fred, Edward, Tom, and self.

[Sidenote: Jan. 13.]

Wife improving at Leamington under Jephson. Fred Keppel and brother Tom
doing magistrates’ business at Litcham.

[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]

Party breaking up. Fred Fitzroy dropping me at friend Rev. C. D.
Brereton’s.

[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]

Took leave of Brereton. Drive of eleven miles to Creake. Bitter cold.
Henry Coke arrived from Holkham.

[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]

To Bobby Hammond’s, now a rich banker; change from a mid’s berth.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

Fred Keppel drove me to brother Edward’s.

[Sidenote: Quidenham Parsonage, Jan. 23.]

Looked over the Quidenham Stud paddocks. Some old brood-mares and four
yearlings. A colt, “Borneo,” promising looking.

[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]

Fred Keppel taking me back to Lexham, sent things to Anthony Hammond’s
at Westacre.

Followed in afternoon. Charming place as well as host.

[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]

Anthony, Bob Hammond, Henry Coke, and others came to dinner.

[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]

Henry Coke and I took departure from Westacre, posting to Brandon, by
rail to Cambridge. Henry having left the Navy had lodgings there: a
quiet dinner with him.

[Sidenote: Jan. 29.]

To London; with Stephensons in Arlington Street.

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

Joined wife at Leamington.

[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]

To London. Father recovering from illness.

[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]

Letter from Admiralty requesting me to sit on a Commission to report
on Naval Uniforms--Chairman, Rear-Admiral Bowles, C.B. Committee:
Rear-Admiral Sir F. Collier, C.B.; Captains A. Fanshawe, C.B.; J.
Shepherd; Hon. F. Pelham; A. Milne; Lord Clarence Paget; and W. F.
Martin.

[Sidenote: Feb. 19.]

Poor Thistlewayte quite blind.

[Sidenote: Droxford, Feb. 20.]

Rode to Collier’s new house at Wickham. Nothing more neat, complete,
and comfortable.

[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]

Wife and I on a visit to Southwick. George Delmé came to dinner.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

Walked from Southwick to Droxford, and afterwards to Rookesbury.
Thistlewayte sending wife there in carriage. Good William Garnier
insisted on our all staying at Rookesbury.

[Sidenote: Rookesbury, Mar. 2.]

William Garnier mounting me, we rode to the Dean’s at Winchester.
Sister Caroline out. Called on Walter Longs on our way back. Collier
and Campbells to dinner.

[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]

On Garnier’s hack to see Hambledon Meet. Many friends, but a bad
scenting day.

[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Mar. 6.]

In break, picking up Wickham’s Admiral, Collier, on the way. Lunched
with the Hyde Parkers. _Sphynx_ in harbour after six weeks on rocks at
back of Isle of Wight.

[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]

By coach to stay with Sivewrights, Symington.

Years since Edward Sivewright and I met. At Symington, canvassed for
brother George.

[Sidenote: Droxford, Mar. 11.]

Busy with accounts. How much I want money, and have wanted, for some
time. Still here we are jogging on. One-half the world never knows how
the other half lives!

Visit to Cousin Delmé’s at Cams.

[Sidenote: Cams, Mar. 13.]

Admiral Sir William Gage came to Cams.

[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]

By rail to Winchester, leaving wife at the Deanery. George Delmé and I
went to see sundry blood-stock at Dilly’s and Stockbridge. Expensive
playthings! “Venison” a fine horse.

[Sidenote: Cams, Mar. 16.]

In Delmé’s drag to meet the Hampshire Hounds at Rockwood, Colonel
Greenwood’s. Delmé sending a hack for me. Martin Haworth master. No
finer day, though, to see hounds and horns.

[Sidenote: Mar. 19.]

Delmé sending me a mount with the Hambleton. Good gallop over the
Downs. Lost near Ditcham.

[Sidenote: Winchester, Mar. 24.]

_Fast Day_--Appointed to be kept by the Government on account of the
distressing famine in Ireland and Scotland. Properly and strictly
observed (to all appearance) throughout the country.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Rode pony over to Campbell Wyndham’s at Exton. Accompanied Mrs. Wyndham
to see Hants Steeplechase. Sport bad, company good, day fine. Good
dinner and party at Wyndham’s; slept there.

[Sidenote: Mar. 31.]

Rev. Mr. M‘Dougal volunteered for Borneo. Good man.

[Sidenote: April 2.]

_Good Friday._--Salt fish and thirst!

[Sidenote: April 14.]

[Sidenote: May 20.]

Letter from Harry Stephenson announcing birth of the finest boy
in creation. Saw in the papers death of the Earl of Bessborough,
Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland--a national loss.

[Sidenote: May 22.]

By rail to London. Friends Crawfurd Kerrs arrived from China.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

Sir Charles Napier going to apply for me as his Flag Captain!

[Sidenote: May 26.]

This day my old friend Jonas Coaker had his little boy christened
Keppel Coaker.

[Sidenote: May 27.]

Hawley’s mare “Miami” won the Oaks, ridden by Sim Templeman. Dined
with the First Lord of the Admiralty, Lord Auckland. Full dress, to
commemorate Her Majesty’s birthday.

[Sidenote: May 28.]

[Sidenote: May 30.]

Mail from India. James Brooke coming home by July mail. Dinner with
Sir William Eden, meeting Admiral Parry’s daughter and Charlie Eden.
Admiral taken ill.

[Sidenote: Blackheath, June 2.]

Took up our quarters in the Blackheath house. Greenwich Park, and
country round, looking perfection.

[Sidenote: London, June 4.]

Dined with Lady Wilmot Horton, meeting Bromleys, Commander Lord Byron,
and others.

[Sidenote: June 5.]

Dined with Charlie Eden to meet Admiral Hyde Parker.

[Sidenote: June 8.]

First Lord’s levée. As far off employment as ever.

[Sidenote: Blackheath, June 11.]

Took the Dalyell ladies to see Review of Horse Artillery. Grand Duke
Constantine. Duke of Wellington in Russian uniform. I dined with
Colonel Parker to meet his brother the Admiral.

[Sidenote: June 15.]

Poor Sir Robert Stopford very ill; sad loss to Greenwich and service.

[Sidenote: June 17.]

Review in Hyde Park. Seen from Mr. Thistlewayte’s house in Connaught
Place.

Dinner to Lord Auckland at Thatched House; well attended. Lift back to
Greenwich with Sir Watkin Pell.

[Sidenote: June 20.]

By steamer, and to Wimbledon by rail to see Ingestre and family. Lady
Sarah as handsome as ever. The little Susan a woman; twelve years since
we met. Missed train. Shake-down at Ingestre’s!

[Sidenote: June 21.]

By rail with Ingestre to London. News from China: Bogue Forts taken,
Canton threatened.

With brother George to dine with aged Mrs. Clavering, wonderful, dear
old lady.

[Sidenote: June 24.]

Called on James Brooke’s sister, Mrs. Savage--pretty, nice person;
strong resemblance to him. Got tickets for Astley’s. It is not what it
used to be.

[Sidenote: June 25.]

At two this morning that fine old Admiral and dignified old gentleman,
Sir Robert Stopford, departed this life!

[Sidenote: June 30.]

Bayley having lent me his yacht _Nymph_, took the Dalyell girls and
Augustus Stephenson a sail down the river to Gravesend and back.

[Sidenote: July 1.]

Dined Thatched House Club. Walpole in chair. Jolly party.

[Sidenote: July 2.]

Attended in full uniform the funeral of Sir Robert Stopford; the whole
ceremony conducted in a manner worthy of so great and good a man.

Dined in South Street with Sir James Kempt; met Colonel Brereton and
others.

[Sidenote: Southampton, July 8.]

Visited Admiral Sir Charles Bullen, who gave me a model of _Dido_.
He had been Captain-Superintendent of Pembroke Dockyard when she was
building.

By rail to Gosport. Dined with the Hyde Parkers. Had a chat with Lord
Saltoun at George Hotel.

[Sidenote: July 14.]

By steamer to Ryde, and four-horse coach to Dudley Pelham at St.
Lawrence.

[Sidenote: St. Lawrence, July 15.]

Rode Pelham’s pony; re-visited Apple-de-Combe.

[Sidenote: July 26.]

Went to Bill Crosbie’s, Emsworth; a jolly party. Goodwood with Bill’s
party, on Delmé’s drag.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

Letter from brother George requesting my presence at Lymington. When I
got to Portsmouth, found this day fixed for the election; Ergo, no use
my going, so rejoined the party for Goodwood.

[Sidenote: July 30.]

Party going to the ball at Chichester; returned with wife to Portsmouth
on a visit to old friends, the Cashers at Southsea.

[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]

Bill Crosbie and two handsome Miss Leithbridges coming over. Made a
party to bazaar at Lord Down’s, Binstead. The Leithbridges dined with
us.

[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]

By steam to Portsmouth. _Cambrian_ given to Plumridge.

[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]

In Lord Hardwicke’s yacht to his place Sydney Lodge, on the banks of
Southampton Water. Nice breeze. Good dinner. Lady Hardwicke singing
delightfully.

[Sidenote: Aug. 7.]

Rainy, stormy morning; strong breeze. Returned in the _Susan_. She was
a yawl-rigged, half-decked, 30-ton boat which his Lordship steered
himself.

[Sidenote: Ryde, Aug. 8.]

Invited by Sir Augustus Clifford to meet Lord Auckland at dinner.
Borneo affairs to be brought under immediate consideration.

[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]

A couple of days at Dudley Pelham’s lovely place at St. Lawrence. Met
Love, brother officer, who danced hornpipe nearly as well as T. P.
Cooke.

[Sidenote: London, Aug. 14.]

Met Admiral Shireff. Offer of his Flag-Captain in case of his getting
_Pacific_; accepted same on conditions.

[Sidenote: Cowes, Aug. 24.]

A sail in the _Pearl_ and dined afterwards with Lord Anglesey at Cowes
Castle.

[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]

By steamer to Southampton. Embarked in Chamberlayne’s _Arrow_, sailed
through Needles passage for Plymouth. Mr. Weld on board--charming old
boy.

[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]

Got into Plymouth. Regatta in full force. Hundreds of people on the
Hoe. Weather fine. Went to the Regatta Ball.

[Sidenote: Aug. 28.]

_Arrow_ sailing for a cup, time race, which she lost by six seconds
only, coming in first. Sailed while at dinner for Cowes.

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

Lucky in our fine weather. Came close round the Bill of Portland
_within the race_. Shortened sail for dinner, yacht fashion. Arrived at
Cowes 10 P.M.

Joining wife at the Vines, Puckaster.

[Sidenote: Aug. 31.]

Steam to Portsmouth. Rail to Farnham. Fly to kind good friends at
Rookesbury.

[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]

William Gamier, Frank Collier, and Walpole to dinner.

[Sidenote: Rookesbury, Sept. 3.]

That donkey, “the Honest Bishop” of Bond Street, not having sent my
gun, spoiled a good day’s shooting, having only a tool with the lock of
the right barrel broken.

[Sidenote: Sept. 6.]

Garnier kindly giving permission for me to invite one of the Cashers to
shoot, William came. Ten brace between us. Casher to dinner and sleep.

[Sidenote: Sept. 7.]

Casher to have another day’s shooting. Bagged twenty-two brace. No
house in England so enjoyable as this Rookesbury; no people so kind and
generous.

[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]

Drizzly rain. Took leave of our kind friends at Rookesbury. At
Southwick.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

Plenty of birds. Lady Farnham staying here.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Letter from Admiral Dundas requiring me to decide between
Flag-Captaining to Sir Charles Napier and a sixth-rate to India.

To Admiralty. Difficult point to decide between inclination and economy.

[Sidenote: London, Sept. 23.]

Breakfasted with Admiral Dundas; decided on India. Wrote letter of
thanks to Lord Auckland.

Offered appointment as First Lieutenant to Bowyear.

[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]

By rail with wife to Quidenham.

[Sidenote: Oct. 9.]

Father and Lady Albemarle off to Newmarket.

[Sidenote: Oct. 11.]

Adieu to Quidenham--for how long? Wife to Blackheath. Found Brooke at
Mivart’s Hotel. United Service Club giving him a dinner, which was
crowded.

[Sidenote: Oct. 12.]

Business at Admiralty. To Greenwich. Dined with Sir James Gordon to
meet Brooke.

[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]

Met Brooke at Lord John Russell’s office, Downing Street. My old
friend, Charles Gore, his Private Secretary.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

Breakfasted with Brooke at Mivart’s. Meeting of Borneo Mission. £3000
subscribed.

[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]

Dined with Lord Auckland to meet Brooke: Lord and Lady Grey, Lord and
Lady Palmerston, Lord and Lady Clanricade and pretty daughter, Lords
Lansdowne and Morpeth, and Dr. Hooker.

[Sidenote: Oct. 20.]

Accompanied Brooke to Frank Grant’s, who was painting his portrait,
indeed a striking likeness. Grant the first artist in the country.

[Sidenote: London, Oct. 21.]

Anniversary of Trafalgar. Dined at Club of 1765. Some fine old “Salts”
present.

[Sidenote: Oct. 22.]

With Brooke to Admiralty. He invited to Windsor Castle.

[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]

To Greenwich School. Inspected some nice-looking lads for _Mæander_.

[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]

Brooke received the Freedom of the City of London, and made a speech.

[Sidenote: London, Oct. 30.]

Admiral Dundas informed me that I should commission _Mæander_ at once.

As I was anxious to be employed, I had tried hard for the _Active_, one
of Symonds’ beautiful ships he wished me to have. However, that lovely
frigate was never commissioned. To Portsmouth. Ordered outfit. Arranged
rendezvous on the Hard.

[Sidenote: Nov. 1.]

My commission appointing me to the command of the _Mæander_ frigate,
44, at Chatham, made out. Allowed to name such officers as I wished.

    First Lieutenant--George Leger Bowyear.
    Second Lieutenant--Charles B. Read.
    Third Lieutenant--Henry W. Comber.
    Third Lieutenant--R. Brice Oldfield.
    Master--Francis H. May.
    Marines--First Lieutenant--Rodney V. Allen.
    Paymaster--George Simmonds.
    Surgeon--John Clarke.
    Assistant-Surgeon--William Smith.
    Second Master--William Turton.

Dined with the Lord Mayor to meet Brooke.

[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]

Business at Admiralty. Other appointments made. Every vacancy filled up.

[Sidenote: Nov. 6.]

To breakfast with Brooke. By Great Western to Chippenham, on visit to
Lord Lansdowne at Bowood. Large party.

[Sidenote: Nov. 7.]

_Sunday._--A day for a short walk. Church in private chapel; beautiful
organ and music.

[Sidenote: Nov. 8.]

Many of the party leaving. In afternoon Brooke and I a ride with Lords
Lansdowne and Morley.

[Sidenote: Nov. 9.]

Back to London with Brooke.

[Sidenote: Sheerness, Nov. 11.]

With young Spalding to Sheerness. Breakfasted with
Captain-Superintendent. Took Spalding on Board _Ocean_ to be examined.
Made my bow and presented Commission to Admiral.

Returned to Chatham. First Lieutenant Bowyear, Read, and Spalding to
dinner.

[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]

Some good men joining.

[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]

Letter from brother George urging me to meet a party at dinner. Up in
time to a family feed; very good though. Put up at Mivart’s.

[Sidenote: Nov. 19.]

Back to Chatham in time to muster Ship’s Company. Charlie Graham also
down to sign papers; dined together.

[Sidenote: Nov. 20.]

Admiralty complying with most of my requests, to the astonishment of
dockyard.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

Attended a meeting of the Borneo Mission at Hanover Square. Had to
second resolution and make a speech. More than 1000 present; chiefly
ladies--nervous work.

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Frock-coats introduced into the service; good things and comfortable.

[Sidenote: Chatham, Nov. 26.]

As senior officer had to inspect men sent from Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]

Vice-Admiral Sir Durnford King sent steamer for me to be interviewed
at Sheerness relative to my refusing drafts from _Ocean_. Returned in
steamer.

[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]

Heard of Admiral Shireff’s death. Good fellow. A week ago as hale and
healthy a man as any on the list.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

Reprimand from Admiralty for having refused the splendid men they sent!
_Mæander_ entering better hourly.

Dined with Royal Marines. Cheery mess.

[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]

Dined with Stephenson at Beef Steak Club.

Kind Rajah gave wife handsome bracelets of Borneo gold.

[Sidenote: Sheerness, Dec. 7.]

Snug and comfortable quarters on board _Hussar_, hulk.

Ship removed from dock to alongside hulk.

[Sidenote: Chatham, Dec. 10.]

Dined with Royal Marines’ Barracks mess with Colonel Whylock.

[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]

Met two young Egertons at Nine Elms Station. Accompanied them to
shoot at Lord Ellesmere’s near Weybridge. Prettiest grounds and wild
shooting. Back by return ticket.

Had a capital dinner at Hastie’s--Stephenson, Brooke and others.

[Sidenote: Dec. 18.]

We left London for Woburn Abbey. Harvey and Brooke with us. A large
house; nice and agreeable party.

[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]

Brooke and I put four horses to a stage coach, and with wife, and
servants, posted across country to Cambridge, by rail to Dereham, coach
to Wells, and in Leicester’s carriage to Holkham, making a tedious
journey of fifteen hours. Late for dinner.

[Sidenote: Holkham, Dec. 21.]

Some nice people here: Edward Digby, Archie MacDonald, Porter, 9th
Lancers, Henry Coke, and others.

[Sidenote: Dec. 22.]

A good day’s shooting, my bag 87 head.

Margaret Coke drove me over to Creake. Decided on taking Tom’s little
fellow Leicester with me.

Servants’ ball in evening. Great fun.

[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]

Shot the Wareham side: not so much game as I have seen. I killed 57
head. Brooke not shooting, but making himself particularly agreeable.

[Sidenote: Dec. 24.]

To shoot fourteen miles off. Wet, dirty day. Leicester not well enough
to dine downstairs; the youngsters got rather by the head and a little
noisy.

[Sidenote: Christmas Day, Dec. 25.]

To Lexham, Brooke, wife and I, Fred Keppel and his brother Edward
receiving us. Nice, quiet, and comfortable house and party.

[Sidenote: Lexham to Hockham, Dec. 27.]

Put posters to Fred Keppel’s carriage, sending servants and luggage by
fly to Hockham. Found large party to meet the Rajah.

[Sidenote: Hockham, Dec. 28.]

Brooke returned in Fred Keppel’s carriage to Lexham. Breretons, Dover,
C. Partridge, Reynardson, and self to shoot.

[Sidenote: Dec. 29.]

Snow. Regular winter’s day.

[Sidenote: Quidenham, Dec. 30.]

Partridge, sending us to Quidenham; Brooke arriving in time for dinner.
Kindly welcomed by all.

George and his son Willie, Edward and Maria, Eustace Hill, Sir Robert
Adair, Miss Hunloke and selves, a party of twelve.

[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]

Brooke took his departure for Norwich to visit the Bishop. Family
party to dinner. My dear father in great force. Knowing his dislike to
saying good-bye, took advantage of his going out of the room to walk
off to bed. I trust I may find him as well, should I live to return.
He is in his seventy-sixth year, and I am going to India on peculiar
service. Four years is a long time to look forward to. Our meeting
again doubtful!

The next three or four years are likely to be the most eventful of my
life.


_Postscript to 1847_

I cannot close my diary this year without mention of the sore trouble
in which my friend Brooke was involved. The commencement, indeed, of
the persecution from which he emerged stainless, but at the cost of
mental anxiety which ultimately caused his death.

As early as 1843, Brooke thought he had reason to suspect the good
faith and honour of his London agent, Mr. Henry Wise of Austin Friars.

In his confidential letters to his friend, Jack Templer, he had
referred to his growing uneasiness at Wise’s management of his affairs.

Letters passed upon the subject: Wise’s replies seldom being
satisfactory. In spite of facts, Brooke did not break off relations
with him.

Brooke had placed his “Journal” at my disposal, and Templer brought a
mass of private letters from Brooke relating to his policy and doings
in Sarawak.

Not deeming myself competent to undertake the construction of the
_Dido_ book, I placed these materials, as well as my diaries, in the
hands of Mr. Jerdan, editor of the _Court Journal_, and a former
acquaintance.

We conferred continually, as the record already written has shown, and
worked amicably enough together.

Jerdan improperly allowed Wise access to these letters, as well
as Brooke’s “Journal,” in spite of their containing references of
a disparaging nature about Wise. In this way the seeds of future
mischief were sown. Wise saw that Brooke suspected him, and under legal
compulsion only did he return the letters to Templer. However, he had
made copies and used them as he willed.

Then came the formation of the Eastern Archipelago Company (without
sanction from Brooke), which had at bottom a scheme to buy out Brooke’s
rights in Sarawak and work the country from one point only--that of
making money.

Brooke refused to give up the trust reposed in him by the Rajah and
people of Sarawak, came home later on, brought a lawsuit against the
Directors of the Eastern Archipelago Company, and won it.

The Directors were convicted of fraud in putting a false certificate on
the charter as to the amount of capital subscribed. It was, in fact,
a bogus prospectus. Mr. Wise had got £18,000 out of it, and much more
besides.

Finding a ready ear in Mr. David Hume, better known in the Navy as the
“Revenue Cutter,” and who loved a grievance, Wise tried to turn the
tables on Brooke once more, alleging his “dreadful treatment” of the
Dyaks as an excuse.

However, “this cock would not fight.” Brooke was the lion of the hour
in 1847, and was appointed Governor of Labuan.

I have always held that ropes were pulled by Wise’s familiars and
himself to get Brooke, Napier, myself, and other truthful witnesses out
of England in order to further their plans in floating this fraudulent
company.




CHAPTER XXXVIII

THE _MÆANDER_


[Sidenote: 1848. Jan. 1.]

Adieu for a while to Quidenham. Farewell, dear father.

By rail to London. Business at Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]

Called with Brooke on Lord Ellesmere. Dined with Lord Auckland:
agreeable company.

[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]

Early boat to Gravesend and Chatham. Ship beginning to look well.

[Illustration: Mæander _Fitting_.]

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

Splendid boats; nearly finished. _Hydra_, friend Grey Skipwith sailing
for Rio in command; good fellow as well as seaman.

[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]

Order from Admiral, to move to Sheerness.

Private letters from Admiralty to remain where we are! Cabins building
for passengers.

[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]

Bent sails.

[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]

At 8.30 taken in tow by the _Charon_ steamer. Master attendant no nerve
to move ship under canvas!

[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]

A party of friends and relations from London: a jovial party. Gave them
the best I could, Admiral kindly lending his steam tender to take many
of them back as far as Chatham.

[Sidenote: Sheerness, Jan. 19.]

Attempt to get out, but pilot not willing. Jolly party still on board.

My brothers remaining; also old Rouse, of Naval College 1822, and now
from Greenwich school, as well as other friends.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

Slipped moorings at 11.30, and with the assistance of steam got as far
as Little Nore. Brother George obliged to leave with his boy. Saluted
Admiral, Sir Edward Durnford King.

[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]

Stephenson and his boys, Augustus and Sussex, not able to remain longer.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

Early morning, the Launch paddled alongside with her small engine
puffing away. Admiral had ship inspected by Captain Price, as much to
his satisfaction as to mine.

[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]

Steamer alongside and fore and aft sails set--our nervous pilot got
under way--nice breeze; made sail over the flats and cast off steamer,
in which old friend Rouse went.

[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]

Brothers Tom and Edward, as well as Harvey, delighted with their sail.
Nine, anchored at Spithead; breeze too fresh for wife to land in boat.
Admiral kindly sent his tender. Dined with Admiral, Sir Charles Ogle.

[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]

To London by express train. Business at Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]

Returned to Portsmouth.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

At two o’clock Board of Admiralty, consisting of Lord Auckland, Lord
John Hay, Milne, Eden, Ward, and Berkeley, with Lady Ellesmere and two
charming daughters, came on board.

[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]

Leave-takings over, weighed from Spithead.

[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]

Party on board--Sir James Brooke, Mr. and Mrs. W. Napier, daughter and
baby; Mr. Hugh Low, Mr. Spencer St. John, Mr. Scott, Captain Hoskins,
Mr. Gwynne, my guest; Captain Peyton, and Lieutenant Müller, the latter
a Norwegian naval officer.

[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]

Breeze freshening from westward. Came to in Plymouth Sound at 10 P.M.
with watch.

[Sidenote: Plymouth, Feb. 4.]

Landed with Lieutenant Oldfield. Met his father, who invited us to
drive on the morrow. Visited George Goldsmith, now Flag Captain to Lord
Dundonald on board _Wellesley_.

[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]

8 A.M.--Met on landing by Lieutenant Oldfield, whose mother had been
found dead in her bed!

Attended with George Goldsmith a lecture on electricity by Captain
Sir W. Harris--lightning conductors. Dined with Lady Hillyar, a good,
dear old lady. She entertained Captains after the battle of Trafalgar,
Gibraltar!

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

Wind veering to N.W.; weighed from Sound. Stood out by Eastern Passage.

[Illustration: Mæander _leaving Plymouth_.]

[Sidenote: Feb. 7.]

Wind back to W.S.W., accompanied by a smash of crockery. Appearance of
worse weather.

[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]

Took shelter in Cork Harbour. Brooke and I dined with Admiral Mackay.

[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]

Took Mrs. and Miss Napier, and my young nephew, Leicester Keppel, to
Cork. Sent valentines to Bijou Dalyell, Collier, and Georgie Johnson.

[Sidenote: Feb. 15.]

Wind veering round to northward; took leave of Admiral, and borrowed
his latest newspapers. At 11 A.M. under weigh and stood out of Cork
Harbour. Adieu to Europe.

[Sidenote: Feb. 16.]

Sea getting up; breeze freshening into a gale; ship plunging and
rolling. Little Leicester announced that he was going to die. Smash
among chairs and what was left of crockery.

[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]

At daylight Napier’s little boy, James Brooke, aged five months, was
found dead in its bed. Sad blow to the parents. Supposed to have gone
off in a fit. Poor Mrs. Napier--poor Napier! Nurse in hysterics.

[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]

Wind dead on end. Napier wretched. Leaden coffin made for the small
thing; in evening screwed it down in a mahogany one, and covered over
with a Union Jack, to be landed at Madeira.

[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]

Divine service performed in cabin. Gunroom table too crowded for my
party to dine there. I had ever looked forward to the command of a
frigate as the height of my ambition. I copy the following from Sir
Spenser St. John’s book, he having been one of my passengers:--

    There is no greater error in the world than turning vessels
    of war into passenger ships, particularly when ladies are
    concerned.

    Every spot is occupied beforehand, so that the unfortunate
    passengers soon discover that they are _de trop_, and the
    comfort of the officers and discipline of the ship suffer from
    having a miscellaneous crowd of idlers.

    Though every desire was shown by captain and officers to render
    passengers comfortable, it had but poor success! Mr. Scott,
    Mr. Hoskins, and myself were stuffed into one small cabin with
    only two beds; I had to resign myself to swinging in a hammock.

The main-deck guns, as far forward as the mainmast, were dismounted;
the ports fitted in as windows, and the deck divided into cabins--the
ship having the appearance of one of Mr. Green’s fine Indiamen, without
the accommodation.

My cabin was called the “saloon,” my servants “waiters,” and when the
ship gave an extra plunge, sundry “brandies and sodas” were called for.

[Sidenote: Madeira, Feb. 23.]

Anchored in Funchal Roads at daylight. Kindly received by Consul
Stoddard, an old friend, celebrated for his hospitality. Youngsters on
shore with different friends. Leicester staying with the Scott Surtees.

Brooke and I had the honour of dining with Her Majesty the Queen
Dowager.

[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]

Duke of Saxe-Weimar, Princes Edward and Herman, Lord Northland, Major
de Winton, Consul Stoddard, and a party came to visit and lunch on
board.

Stoddard invited us to meet the two Princes and a party at dinner, and
he also got up an expedition to see the _Corral_. A dance given by the
officers was spoilt by dirty weather.

[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]

Band landed to perform at a picnic in Mr. Stoddard’s garden.

Brooke and I took our farewell dinner with Her Majesty, who, very
prettily, drank health and happiness to wife and self, it being the
anniversary of our wedding day, and also drank success to Brooke.

[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]

12.20 A.M.--Weighed from Funchal Roads; weather cold for the latitude.

[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]

[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]

Divine service performed in my cabin; it being still too cold for
the quarter-deck, although getting warmer. Flying-fish and dolphins,
as well as other indications of the tropics. Weather being fine, the
youngsters commenced school in my fore-cabin.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

Three successive good runs, 235, 238, and 234.

[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]

In the evening the ship was hailed by Neptune, who sent his messenger
over the bows in a blaze of light; in witnessing the function the
passengers got wet.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

Neptune came on board and performed the usual foolery, 160 men
underwent the operation of shaving amid much merriment and fun.

[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]

Westley Richards, the well-known gun maker, had an agent, by the name
of Bishop; a character, he had visiting cards on which he styled
himself “The Bishop of Bond Street.” He was a dog-fancier, and restored
many a lady’s lost dogs.

[Illustration: “_The Bishop._”]

When a regiment of Guards marched through Bond Street, I often saw “the
Bishop” stand in front of his shop in his white apron, presenting arms
with a double-barrelled gun.

He presented me with a thoroughbred Scotch terrier; of course the dog
could have no other name than _Bishop_. It is difficult to take a
thoroughbred across the Equator. Sailors are fond of animals, dogs in
particular.

After leaving Madeira, one forenoon _Bishop_ was pronounced to be mad,
foaming at the mouth, and snapping at everything, there was no mistake.

I was in the fore-cabin, through which he rushed; the youngsters at
school, their legs dangling; but none were bitten. On his journey
forward he encountered the sailmaker repairing a main-split topsail.
One blow with a huge marling spike finished the poor dog.

I wondered afterwards what effect he must have had on a shark’s
stomach. It was a mercy no one was bitten in the school cabin.

[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]

Made the island of Fernando Noronha.

This night a fine young A.B., George Robinson, in a fit of delirium
got out of his hammock and jumped through a main-deck port, saying,
“Good-bye, shipmates,” as he went. Boats were down on the instant, but
to no purpose!

[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]

Preparing for painting cabin guns. Dined on deck, abaft mizen mast,
screened in--much discomfort, but how fond people are of a change. Boat
from an American whaler came alongside about sunset wanting _news_ only!

[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]

Close off the Port of Rio at daylight; had to wait the sea breeze. Glad
to land passengers for a while. Found my old friend Tennyson d’Eyncourt
in the _Comus_.

William Partridge, unfortunately invalided from _Grecian_, had gone
home in the Packet.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Invalided Read. Poor fellow! Sorry to lose him, but no command of
himself. With Brooke to call on our Minister, Lord Howden.

[Sidenote: Mar. 26.]

Napier tired of shore; came on board with belongings; a bore just now.

[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]

Determined, with my cargo, on not calling at Simon’s Bay. Provisioned
accordingly. D’Eyncourt dined with me: his ship, the _Comus_, having
committed the crime of getting on shore! it was necessary to heel her
over in the River Plate. In doing this she lost her balance and found
the bottom, this time in soft mud.

I believe the Plate takes its name from Plata (silver), but any water
more like pea-soup in colour I never was in. (No time to apply for
details to Admiral of the Fleet, Sir J. E. Commerell, G.C.B., V.C.,
A.D.C., who was midshipman on board _Firebrand_ at this time, and just
going home for his examination as mate.)

However, with a fine crew and help of Captain Hope of _Firebrand_,
they got the _Comus_ up, minus a keel, in which state my friend
d’Eyncourt was taking her home with a good freight on board. There was
a suspicious-looking clipper lying off the mouth of the harbour at the
time, but he thought “a bird in the hand,” etc.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

Got under way at daylight, and ran out with the land breeze. Breeze
still holding, enabling us to make southing.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

My passenger friend Peyton, a very good fellow.

[Sidenote: April 6.]

[Sidenote: April 10.]

Dirty weather. Gig’s crew baling water out of fore-cabin. One of my
cows dead, the other not much.

[Sidenote: April 19.]

In the forenoon made Prince Edward’s Island in 46° 23´ S. Not often
made by ships going to India. Best and shortest route though!

[Sidenote: April 20.]

A slashing breeze. Twelve knots logged for eight successive hours. By
log 274 miles, to which may be added 25--easterly set, making 299 miles.

[Sidenote: April 26.]

Once more within the limits of the East Indian Station (_Batta_),
having crossed the 75° of longitude; good run of 270 miles by log.

[Sidenote: April 27.]

While at breakfast John Wallis, a fine young fellow, fell overboard
from the main topsail yard-arm.

[Illustration: Mæander _hove to_.]

In lowering boats Comber fell out of the cutter: recovered much
exhausted, but poor Wallis had sunk to rise no more alive, the sea had
closed over him. He was only twenty-four, and Second Captain of the
Top: a favourite with the ship’s company, who expressed a wish to send
his mother, whom he supported, a day’s pay.

Lots of albatross and other sea-birds about; some endeavoured to flap
Comber on the head with their powerful wings while he was in the water;
much exhausted, but swam manfully.

[Illustration: _Comber in Danger._]

[Sidenote: May 2.]

Occasional heavy squalls, in one of which the chain bowsprit shroud
carried away the bowsprit badly sprung; wind driving aft, enabling us
to repair damages without altering course.

Spring in bowsprit was just outside the knight-heads and nearly
through. Got spare boat’s masts out as supporters on each side; secure
but not handsome, it enabled us to carry the jib with care.

[Sidenote: May 5.]

Miss Napier having this day attained her nineteenth year, champagne and
a dance in the fore-cabin. Think there is something in the wind between
her and Low!

[Sidenote: May 8.]

On referring to my _Dido_ log, curious how near together the running of
the two ships over a space of seven thousand miles: never having been a
hundred ahead of one another.

[Sidenote: May 12.]

Made Christmas Island at 3 A.M. A few days over six years since I did
so in _Dido_.

[Sidenote: Singapore, May 14.]

Within the Straits of Sunda: squally weather. Master and self piloting
ship past the numerous shoals: anchored off Singapore. Mail in.

[Sidenote: 1848.]

Stunning news of Revolution in France; Louis Philippe an exile in
England; a Republic proclaimed, and other extraordinary facts.

Heard of Admiral Inglefield’s death at Bombay from wearing cocked
hat in the sun. _Cambrian_ here with Plumridge, my old _Magicienne_
Captain, flying First-Class Commodore’s broad pennant!

[Sidenote: May 22.]

Brooke was received with all the honours due to a Governor, and on the
following day preparations commenced for establishing the new colony of
Labuan.

An office was opened in Singapore, and contracts received for the
frameworks of temporary residences to be erected for the Government
functionaries.

Singapore has now become a rich and extensive town. By no act of
his life did Sir Stamford Raffles manifest greater discernment and
foresight than by founding this settlement; steam then not dreamed
of. It has become the emporium of all the trading communities of the
Eastern Archipelago, as well as of that of extensive trade carried on
by all nations with China and India. Here twice a month now come the
steam-vessels of the Dutch from Batavia, of Spain from Manila, and our
own from China, to meet the European mail.

Colonel Butterworth, the present Governor, has had roads opened in all
parts of the island, and thrown substantial bridges across its streams.
Met Captain M‘Quhae of the _Dædelus_, lunched with him.

[Sidenote: May 23.]

The Governor gave a ball and supper to commemorate Her Majesty’s
birthday.

[Sidenote: May 24.]

Brooke, Read, Napier, and some others dined with old M‘Quhae, on board
the _Dædelus_, before the ball. M‘Quhae got a little by the head,
ships and forts having saluted at noon. Took possession of Navy House,
a nice building, once poor Whitehead’s.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

_Dædelus_ sailed, and I assumed command of the Straits Station. Society
much enlarged: impossible to get through the necessary calls in one
day. Band on shore in the evenings for the amusement of our friends.
Peyton and I dined with Tom Church, our Resident Councillor.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

In pulling about in my gig among the numerous prettily wooded islands
on the westward entrance to the Singapore river, was astonished to find
deep water close to the shore, with a safe passage through for ships
larger than the _Mæander_.

Now that steam is likely to come into use, this ready-made harbour as a
depot for coal would be invaluable.

I had the position surveyed, and sent it, with my report, to the Board
of Admiralty; as it was, the forge was landed, boats repaired, and
artificers employed under commodious sheds, all under the eyes of the
officers on board.

[Illustration: _New Harbour, Singapore._]

New Harbour has another advantage over Singapore Roads. In the latter
a ship’s bottom becomes more foul than in any known anchorage in
these seas; perhaps from the near proximity to the bottom. This is
not the case in New Harbour, through which there is always a tide
running, while a current of air passing between the islands keeps it
comparatively cool.

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Despatched _Phlegethon_ with the pioneers of the new settlement at
Labuan, also to relieve the _Auckland_.

[Sidenote: June 19.]

_Mariner_, 16, arrived from the Cape, having made a long voyage going
the old track, Commander Mathieson taking up his quarters with me.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

Officers of 21st dined “Mæanders,” inviting the Napiers to meet them.

[Sidenote: Singapore, June 23.]

A tiger brought in by some Malays was given me by the Governor. Clarke
kindly skinned the beast. The flesh is in great demand by natives, who
fancy that eating it makes them strong and brave.

The Malays stated, when they found the monster in a hole which had been
dug on purpose, they threw quicklime in his eyes, and the unfortunate
beast, while suffering intense pain, drowned himself in some water at
the bottom of the pit, though not more than a foot in depth.

The annual loss of human life from tigers, chiefly among the Chinese
settlers, is fearful--averaging one per diem. Great exertions are
still being made for the destruction of them, which is effected by
pitfalls--cages baited with dog, goat, monkey, or other restless
animal, also by sundry cunning contrivances, but the strait between
Johore and Singapore is but a short swim.

One of the recent victims was the son of the head man at Passir Pâdi,
who, having gone into the jungle behind his father’s house to cut wood,
was attacked by a tiger. The father, hearing screams, rushed just in
time to grasp his boy’s legs as the brute was dragging him.

The father pulled and the tiger growled: it was only on other people
arriving that he quitted his prey; but the unfortunate lad was dead.

There is a procession and much parade in bringing these tigers to the
Government offices for the reward. The tigers are made to look as
fierce as possible--propped up in a standing position by pieces of
bamboo, the mouth open, and tail on end.

So great is the virtue of tiger flesh as a pick-me-up from fever that a
portion of my beast found its way to the sick-room of a friend in the
21st Madras Native Infantry.

He was recovering from fever, and expressed surprise at the tough
meat in his curry, when his native servant explained his reason for
supplying it.

Although out on various occasions, I was never fortunate enough to
fall in with a live tiger. With wild hog we had excellent sport, and
occasionally with deer.

[Sidenote: June 24.]

Comber was made a Freemason of the lodge “Zetland in the East” (to
which I subsequently belonged). The members gave a farewell dinner to
Read, and invited me to meet him. Brooke was also a guest, and made an
excellent speech.

[Sidenote: June 27.]

_Auckland_ steamer in from Labuan; Sekarran pirates requiring a visit.
Captain Young of _Auckland_ took up his quarters with me.

Drove with the Governor. Assembly ball in evening.

[Sidenote: Singapore, June 28.]

_Mæander_ hoisted Royal Standard and saluted on anniversary of the
Coronation.

Our worthy old Purser, Simmons, departed this life while staying at
Whampoa’s country house.

Whampoa was a fine specimen of his country, and had for many years been
contractor for fresh beef and naval stores. His generosity and honesty
had long made him a favourite.

He had a country house, and of course a garden; also a circular pond in
which was a magnificent lotus, the _Victoriæ regia_, a present from the
Regent of Siam, who sent it to him by W. H. Read. The huge lily grew
splendidly, and bore leaves over eleven feet in diameter.

When in blossom, Whampoa gave sumptuous entertainments to naval
officers: although our host, he would not eat with us, but sat in a
chair, slightly withdrawn from the table.

At midnight, by the light of a full moon, we would visit this beautiful
flower, which faced the moon and moved with it until below the horizon.

Amongst other pets he had an orang-outang, who preferred a bottle of
cognac to water. Dear old Whampoa’s eldest son was sent to England for
education, and while there became a Presbyterian.

When I was at Singapore, years after, the young man returned, and had
the assurance to reappear before his father, fresh and well, but minus
a tail, and consequently was banished to Canton until it regrew and he
consented to worship the gods of his fathers. I now hear from the then
lad that he holds his father’s place.

[Sidenote: June 29.]

Attended the funeral of Simmons: no kinder or better man.

[Sidenote: July 1.]

Dined at a farewell dinner, given by the Frasers to the Reads.
_Albatross_, 12, arrived from Rio. Commander Farquhar, a good fellow,
took up his quarters with me.

[Sidenote: July 3.]

Mail steamer from China, bringing old friend Tottenham to take
Lieutenant Read’s vacancy.

[Sidenote: July 4.]

Large dinner at Government House to meet His Excellency Sir James
Brooke.

[Sidenote: July 6.]

Dined with Cooke and Hessey, 21st Regiment: a large party. Brooke came
to stay with me.

[Sidenote: July 10.]

Took leave of the Governor and Mrs. Butterworth, who are leaving on the
morrow to visit the various settlements.

[Sidenote: July 13.]

Low gave a dinner at the hotel to self and friends.

[Sidenote: July 17.]

On board _Mæander_; got under way to accompany Farquhar in _Albatross_,
after dining we parted company, she proceeding to Bombay.

[Sidenote: July 18.]

Landed at 4 A.M. with the youngsters to draw the seine; great fun.

[Sidenote: July 19.]

Weighed at 10 A.M., and ran into New Harbour. Rajah Brooke far from
well, our departure for Sarawak postponed.

[Sidenote: July 23.]

A snake five feet long found under one of the main-deck guns. How he
got there, they wondered!

[Sidenote: July 24.]

Having a large party on board, got under way. Ran through the Eastern
Passage, round St. John’s, and returned by Western Entrance. _Auckland_
steamer joined us in New Harbour.

[Sidenote: July 31.]

At 5 P.M., on the rising of the moon, fired a salute of eight guns to
please the Tumongong of Singapore, in celebration of the close of a
Mahommedan Fast.

Ever since meeting him in Singapore in this year, my friend, James
Meldrum (Dato), has always kept me informed of all matters connected
with the doings of the Tumongong and his family.

[Sidenote: Aug. 7.]

Arrived mail steamer, on board which was my old friend, Sir Francis
Collier, as Commander-in-Chief. His birthday too!

Hoisted and saluted his flag on board _Mæander_. Put him up in Read’s
house, now empty, Admiral’s flagship _Hastings_ to follow. The pleasure
of meeting, I flatter myself, was mutual. Drove out with him after
early dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]

Attended the Admiral in returning many calls.

[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]

Assisted at Miss Napier’s cheery wedding with Hugh Low: _déjeûner_
given by Napier.

[Sidenote: Aug. 14.]

Occupied with Admiral, returning calls. He having ventured on the
favourite native fruit, Durian, will not forget the taste!

[Sidenote: Egerton, Aug. 15.]

Youngsters Karslake and Granville on shore preparatory to riding at the
races. I won the lottery.

[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]

Last day of the races: better sport because fairer weights; good fun.

[Sidenote: Aug. 21.]

Great preparations for the instalment of James Brooke. Pity the
Governor is not here to perform the ceremony.

[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]

[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]

Installation of Brooke with the order of K.C.B.: great business;
Napier, Her Majesty’s Representative, performing ceremony. Ball in
evening at Assembly Rooms.

[Sidenote: Aug. 28.]

Captain Young and officers of _Auckland_ gave a ball on board their
steaming frigate to the “Mæanders.” Very well done.

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

Brooke returned from short visit to the country; sailed with him for
Labuan. Left dingey in Read’s garden for Admiral’s flag. Taylor of
Artillery with me.

[Sidenote: At Sea. Aug. 30.]

Again on the way to Sarawak. My friend Brooke under different
circumstances than when he went in _Dido_, 1843.

[Sidenote: Aug. 31.]

Rounded Tanjong Datu: entered within the limits of Brooke’s territory.

[Illustration: _All Sail set._]

[Sidenote: Sarawak, Sept. 2.]

Being off the Santabong entrance sent second gig to Sarawak, with
letters from Rajah Brooke. Sunset, anchored in the Marotobas entrance
off Tanjong Po: some 12 miles from Kuching.

[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]

The whole Sarawak population appeared to be afloat; all their largest
and finest boats had been put in requisition, and came with tom-toms
beating, streamers and colours flying to greet their Rajah.

The first boat alongside contained the Bornean Princes: survivors of
the Brunei Massacre, relatives of poor Muda Hassim and the gallant
Budrudeen.

Among them I recognised Pangeran Oman Alli, with a desperate wound in
the face and a frightful gash across the breast.

While preparing for my guests in proper form, their Highnesses found
their way into my cabin, thereby evading all ceremony--where I will
leave them a few minutes while I insert here a short extract from Rajah
Brooke’s letter, dated on board _Phlegethon_, August 27, 1846.

    “Here I am with a few of the unhappy survivors of Muda Hassim’s
    family.

    “I cannot pretend to detail all that has occurred, even in a
    long letter, for events now, as when you were with me, progress
    far faster than the decisions of ministers.

    “You will have heard of the brutal massacre of Muda Hassim, the
    noble Budrudeen and the other brothers, except two.

    “They were taken by surprise, their houses fired, and during the
    fire attacked by about fifty men.

    “Budrudeen, with two men, fought until wounded in the wrist and
    cut over the head; he then blew himself and family up.

    “Muda Hassim escaped with several of his brothers to the
    opposite side of the river, having lost his guns, powder, and
    property, and then shot himself.”

The pleasure on both sides at meeting was unfeigned, and
indeed--setting aside those social ties which must bind us all, more or
less, to the land of our birth--no one, witnessing the real pleasure
which the return of Sir James Brooke afforded these simple people,
could wonder at his preferring a country where such a reception
awaited him to colder if more civilised England.

With the first of the flood, our Rajah embarked in the _Mæander’s_
barge, and, quitting the ship under a salute and manned yards, attended
by his picturesque fleet he proceeded up the river, the war prahus
keeping up a firing of guns.

After Brooke’s departure we stood out to sea, in search of the _Jolly
Bachelor_. When off Tanjong Datu we hoisted out our boom-boats, sending
them in all directions, standing ourselves towards St. Pierre.

We afterwards met the tender off the entrance of the Sarawak River.
Marryat having mistaken his orders, went in by the Santobong entrance.

[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]

Ran into the river. The largest ship that has ever been or likely to
come up as far as the Quop. Took up my quarters in Brooke’s house;
found him surrounded by a happy and contented people.

[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]

Preparing boats to accompany a small force to be sent by Rajah to the
Sadong: twenty-five boats in all.

[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]

This afternoon tide brought the _Auckland_ steamer, with the July mail.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

Went up during a stormy night with young Brooke to join his uncle;
returned with the ebb. _Auckland_ having brought up our new steam
tender, built at Singapore and christened _Ranee_, took a small trip in
her. The engines, however, not of sufficient power. The steam launch
was the astonishment of the natives.

[Sidenote: Sept. 17.]

Boats returned from their expedition to Sadong, which was most
successful, but a sad accident had occurred.

Two seamen and a marine were going on shore in a sampan, when the
seamen began rocking the canoe by way of lark, and upset the small
vessel, drowning the marine and one sailor.

While the First Lieutenant was reporting to me the sad accident, a lad
fell overboard from the _Ranee_, and sank at once, probably seized by
an alligator not visible in muddy water. Very sad the number of deaths
in this ship: manned by as fine a crew as ever left England.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

Attended a grand feast given by the Datu Patinggi to the Rajah. Great
preparations had been made; flags and streamers flying, gongs sounding,
and salutes fired _ad libitum_ from the Datos Lelahs.

We were received by the still pretty and graceful Inda, mother of
Fatima, the youthful heiress to Datu Gapoor’s property. Her beauty has
attained a celebrity throughout the Malayan Archipelago.

The fair Fatima sprinkled us with coloured rice and gold dust, to which
was added a gentle shower of rose water.

Verses from the Koran were chanted, the book being handed from one to
another, without regard to precedence or sanctity, the man with the
strongest lungs taking the longest pull at it. Then came feasting, with
undeniably good curries.

[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]

Brooke held a Bichara. All the leading Chiefs, Datus, and Pangerans
attended. Every part of the audience-chamber was crowded: light and
air being almost excluded by the multitude of eager faces that filled
the openings which served for windows. We were in uniform and found it
oppressively hot.

A new flag, which Brooke had brought from England, was unfurled--a
black and red cross on yellow ground--henceforth the national flag of
Sarawak.

It was hoisted and saluted in due form; the _Mæander’s_ band, playing
lively airs, contributed to effect.

The function over, pipes and cigars were introduced. We then threw
off our jackets, appearing in full Sarawak uniform, viz. shirts and
trousers only, and discussed with less ceremony and more comfort
the past, the present, and the future, finishing by dining with the
generous Hunting, who has become a landed proprietor.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Up early and down to the ship at the Quop and on to Tanjong Po.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

The Rajah having embarked with friends Treacher and Macdougal we sailed
for Labuan, and in four days landed him, although far from well.

[Sidenote: Labuan.]

But where was the Governor’s house? Where the Lieutenant-Governor?
Where was any one in authority to answer for the miserable huts we
found raised on the most unhealthy-looking spots on the island?

The flat selected for the settlement is below the level and out of
sight of the sea, from which it is protected by a silted-up bank. It
cost the lives of many marines, and, later, some of my best able seamen.

Landed Brooke under a salute. He and Napier were sworn in, and so
commenced the Government of Labuan.

[Sidenote: Oct. 6.]

We again received on board the Governor and his staff, His Excellency
purposing to pay a visit of ceremony to the Sultan of Brunei.

[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]

Hoisted out the launch. Got caught in a squall, with her and steam
tender in tow. Before the sail could be got off the launch capsized,
with a brass gun for ballast; the steam tender did not take in so much
as a spoonful of water.

However, we picked up the two boat-keepers, and the greater part of
the gear; came to and hoisted in the launch. While thus employed the
_Royalist_ hove in sight, having been dismantled in same squall.

The bob-stays had given way, the bowsprit came in-board, and the three
masts, with royal yards across, lay amidships.

[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]

Leaving her at Labuan to refit, and a volunteer party of marines for
duty on shore, we re-landed His Excellency and sailed for Singapore.

[Sidenote: Oct. 17.]

A marine, William Southcote, another victim, departed this life.

[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]

Another this evening in Corporal Chalmers, also a steady, good man.
Have my fears for those poor fellows left at Labuan.

[Sidenote: Oct. 31.]

At daylight arrived at Singapore. My wife had previously arrived from
England, and was kindly received by the Governor and Mrs. Butterworth.

[Sidenote: Nov. 2.]

Admiral hoisted flag on board. I took Whampoa’s house in the country.

[Sidenote: Nov. 11.]

_Hastings_, 72--Captain, Francis Austen; Commander, Edward
Rice--arrived in the night. Shifted flag to her and saluted. Glad she
has arrived. She had been towed up by _Fury_, 6, from Java Head.

[Sidenote: Nov. 16.]

_Auckland_, arriving from Labuan with _Royalist_ in tow: decided that
_Mæander_ takes part of 21st Regiment on board for Labuan station.

[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]

Inquiry, with Captain Morgan, on board _Royalist_, as to steps taken by
Gordon when she was dismasted. Approval of steps taken.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

Company of Sepoy troops embarked on board _Mæander_. Weighed
immediately.

[Illustration: Mæander _passing astern of_ Hastings.]

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Lucky in our breeze. Fell in with and passed close under the stern of
the _Hastings_ in tow of _Fury_, she having left thirty hours before
us. She would have done better under canvas.

[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]

Arrived at Labuan.

We found nearly the whole colony down with fever. More marines had
died; many seriously ill, and of the survivors the poor Governor in the
worst condition. He had been delirious, and lay apparently with but
little hope of recovery. Doctor Treacher, his medical attendant, was
nearly as bad.

I saw that some steps should be immediately taken, and, making my way
to the sick bedside, I begged Sir James to prepare for removal, giving
him choice of _Auckland_ or _Mæander_. Brooke selected the latter.

[Sidenote: Nov. 29.]

Feeling better in the morning, he undertook to sign a few papers, but
fainted twice during the day.

When I called just before sunset with the barge’s crew to convey him
on board, he was so exhausted that our surgeon declared it would be
dangerous to move him.

With great reluctance on my part, he was left to imbibe for another
night the fœtid air of Labuan.

[Sidenote: Dec. 1.]

Poor Hannan, our Chaplain, showing strong symptoms of delirium;
imagines the Queen to be coming to Labuan to put things to rights.

[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]

Found Brooke not improving. I decided on saving his life if possible.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

In spite of remonstrances of the faculty, as well as those of some of
his staff, my gig’s crew gently shouldered the cot on which he lay, and
so conveyed His Excellency to the barge. The sea was smooth; those on
board were prepared: he was hoisted up; once in my cabin no one could
approach him except through me, and I was proud and hopeful of my
charge.




CHAPTER XXXIX

_MÆANDER_--CRUISING


[Sidenote: 1848. Labuan, Dec. 3.]

Sir James Brooke had duties to perform as Her Majesty’s Commissioner to
the Sultan of Borneo, and the Chiefs of the Malayan Archipelago; but he
was only able to indicate to me the direction he wished to go.

Our chief object being the restoration of his health, we managed, by
keeping the ship under easy sail during the day, and anchoring in the
evening, to give him the advantage of undisturbed rest at night.

Among the invalids were the A.D.C., Captain Brooke, poor Dr.
Treacher, a mere shadow of what he was, young Charles Grant, and the
good-tempered Spenser St. John, whose kindness to the sick had been
unabated.

[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]

Weighed at daylight, and with fair wind, smooth water, and fine
weather, coasted along in the direction of Pulo Tiga, the scenery
increasing in beauty as we got to the northward.

Running between Pulo Tiga and Tanjong Klias, we shaped a course for the
Kimanis River, up which there was a fine old Orang Kaya (chief man),
Istur by name, a friend of our Rajah. It was dark when we came to. This
was formerly a great haunt of the Illanuns and other pirates.

 [Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago.]

[Sidenote: Dec. 5.]

Having obtained the necessary information from native fishing boats,
sent the second gig up the river to inform the Orang Kaya of the
Rajah’s arrival, as well as to solicit a pilot for the River Mengatal.

I had intended to go up in the cool of the evening, but in the
afternoon the unusual appearance, in these waters, of a boat with a
European sail was reported, coming along shore. She proved to belong to
the _Minerva_ schooner, bringing the master and mate of that vessel,
which they had left on a coral bank near Balambangan.

In the master, Lonsdale, I recognised an old acquaintance, who formerly
commanded the _Maria_, one of the transports under convoy of the _Dido_
during the Chinese war. He stated that, having run on the reef, and
finding that his vessel could not be got off without being lightened,
he was throwing her cargo of teak overboard when he observed several
prahus coming out from under a point of land. Having no arms he had
taken to his long-boat, with the few valuables he could hastily
collect, manned by his Lascar crew, making eighteen in all.

Ten of the Lascars afterwards left him on his landing at a part of the
island for fuel and water. He then went on, intending to coast down as
far as Labuan.

While at morning quarters, off Kimanis, a swarm of bees, attracted
perhaps by the sound of the band, came round the ship, and finally
settled on the under quarter of the cross-jack-yard, presenting an
extraordinary appearance. By clinging to one another, they formed
themselves into a bag 12 or 14 inches deep, the mouth of which,
attached to the cross-jack-yard, occupied a space of about 2 feet in
length by 1 wide, which was shaken and moved by the wind.

Fearing that the men might get stung on going aloft, I tried to
dislodge the bees, first by discharging a musket with a double charge
of coarse powder at them from the mizzen-rigging, within 4 yards.

This having no effect, it was fired at the same distance with a charge
of sand, by which a few fell. The vacancies were immediately filled up,
and the bag seemed to stick closer than ever.

They remained two days, during which time we were twice under way,
making and shortening sail, in each of which operations the chain
topsail sheet ran through the centre of the bag and disturbed large
portions of them in its passage; but the bees returned and repaired the
damage as soon as the sheet or clew line had been belayed.

The disaster of the _Minerva_ induced me to defer our visit to the
village, in order that we might repair to the scene of the wreck and
render assistance.

[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]

Early the following morning, having hoisted the boat on board, we
weighed with a fresh southerly wind, along the coast, a couple of miles
off-shore, with the noble mountain of Kina-Balu in the background
raising its magnificent head above the clouds.

[Illustration: _Kina-Balu._]

[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]

Nothing could be finer than the scene before us; our poor invalids were
much too ill to enjoy it, but this was the first day in which I had
been able to discover the slightest improvement in Brooke’s condition.

As might be supposed, when we found the wreck, not only had she been
completely gutted, but burned to the water’s edge, for the sake of the
copper and iron bolts. We saw, in fact, native boats in the distance
making off with the plunder.

The appearance of Balambangan is far from inviting, and the approaches
to it are shoal and intricate.

Weighed, and stood into Malludu Bay. On our way we fell in with a
native prahu, belonging to Seriff Hussein, a son of the unfortunate
Seriff Osman, who made such a gallant resistance in August 1845 up the
Malludu River, when attacked by the boats of the _Vestal_, Captain
Talbot.

[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]

Seriff Hussein was reticent on his first interview with Rajah Brooke,
but opened out more fully on his second visit. He and the chiefs with
him complained of the unprotected state and want of government under
which they lived. Each petty chief quarrelled with and attacked his
weaker neighbours, while they in turn lived in constant dread of an
attack from the more formidable Bajow or Sulu pirates.

These people were particularly obliging and civil, and sent their men
to show us the best shooting-ground, rather appearing to like our
visit, though we were not long enough together to establish implicit
confidence.

Having pulled and poled over a bar, and up a shallow salt-water creek,
on the east side of the bay, a little to the northward of where we
were anchored, we landed a small shooting party, and were shown some
particularly likely-looking ground, covered with long grass and
intersected in all directions by the fresh tracks of wild cattle. A hog
was the result of our sport; but three large deer made their appearance
on the edge of the jungle, just as the guns had been discharged at our
less-dignified game.

[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]

With our tender, _Jolly Bachelor_, in company, we weighed and stood
towards the Island of Mallewali and soon entered among the dangers of
the Sulu Seas.

As far as the eye could reach from the masthead, patches of sand and
coral banks were visible, but the weather was fine, the water smooth
and clear; time our own, and with our tender sounding ahead, we
proceeded, nothing daunted by appearances. We could always pick our way
by daylight and anchor at sunset.

Mallewali is surrounded by coral reefs and sandbanks. There appears to
be a fine harbour to the eastward, but certainly no safe entrance for a
ship the size of _Mæander_.

Exploring parties landed and the island was well traversed, but no
traces of inhabitants were seen, and only rumours of tracks of game.

[Sidenote: Mallewali, Dec. 13.]

At 10 A.M. expired, in the prime of life, one of our finest young
men, John Jago, another victim to Labuan fever; he had several times
rallied, but two days previous to his death he sent to take leave of
me, and I was some time endeavouring to cheer him up.

The sick were suspended in cots on both sides of the main-deck; and
when a death occurred it was difficult to hide from the others what had
taken place.

Jago was the last of the barge’s crew who was taken ill, and had
attended most of his shipmates through their attacks of fever. There
was a happy expression of countenance and a generosity about this
poor fellow that had endeared him to officers and men. He left me the
address of his mother, and of a young girl to whom he was betrothed.

[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]

[Sidenote: Sulu, Dec. 18.]

We weighed as soon as the sun was high enough to show us the dangers,
standing under easy sail to the eastward, with _Jolly Bachelor_
sounding ahead. After some little difficulty in winding the ship
between the shoals, and an occasional scrape on some projecting point
of coral that had outgrown the bed to which it belonged, we made
Cagayan Sulu on the 18th, but before coming to an anchor on the eastern
side, we buried George Martin, a young marine.

Dollars not being a current medium of exchange among most of these
islands, glass beads, looking-glasses, coloured cottons, etc., had been
brought by us for purposes of barter.

We were very anxious to obtain a supply of bullocks, to keep our
people as much on fresh meat as possible. The purser and interpreter,
with a party of officers, went in a boat to communicate with a house
which struck us in passing--from its size and plantations round it--as
probably belonging to some chief, by whose assistance we hoped to get a
supply of cattle.

Having, with difficulty, got inside the shoals, and effected a landing,
our party was received in the politest manner by a fine-looking old
Malay, who came down with his family to meet them.

They made him understand our wants; and he sent immediately to the
chief of the district, and acquainted him with our wishes, appointing
the next morning at nine as the time to receive the chief’s answer.

Our people left the shore much pleased with their friend, who, as I
have before remarked of the well-bred Malays, was a gentleman, polite,
easy, and dignified.

[Sidenote: Dec. 19.]

The next morning the same party landed with the necessary articles for
barter, expecting to meet the chief or his deputy, and make a bargain
for the cattle. Their friend of the previous evening received them in
the same kind manner.

They waited some time in expectation of the cattle arriving, instead
of which, parties of natives kept thronging in, well armed with kris,
spear, and shield--their tom-toms beating outside.

After a while came the chief with a numerous train--himself a
humpbacked, ferocious-looking savage--with all his men in padded
jackets, and regular fighting costume. He made no reply to the
questions of our party about bullocks, but kept his hand on his kris,
and appeared undecided how to act.

We were only eight in number, and destitute of arms, with the
exception of my double-barrel, the kind behaviour of their friend the
night before having completely removed all suspicion of any sinister
behaviour.

Surrounded now by about sixty well-armed, rascally-looking thieves,
of hostile demeanour, we thought it best to put on as bold a front as
possible, and at the same time quietly to retire. Nor did we underrate
our good fortune in regaining the boat without further molestation,
the ship being some miles distant, and shut from view by projecting
headlands.

This was a lesson not to venture, in future, out of sight of the ship
among the natives of these islands without an apparent superiority
of force. Their white flags were hung out as much for the purpose of
entrapping the weak as of bartering with the strong. Finding our wishes
not likely to be attained, and not liking our berth, which was exposed
to the eastward, we weighed, and ran round to the opposite side of
Cagayan Sulu. This island, from its size and population, is next in
importance to Sulu itself.

The scenery, at this stage of our wanderings, was the perfection of
tropical beauty, with just sufficient cultivation to redeem it from the
appearance of wildness.

As we ran past the bungalows and small villages on the southern shore,
the inhabitants showed great alacrity in displaying pieces of white
cloth; we ourselves keeping a white flag constantly flying, to show our
peaceable intention and desire to communicate with them.

[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]

Having stood out for the melancholy purpose of committing to the deep
the body of a marine, named Allan Cameron, another victim to Labuan
fever, we came to an anchor on the south-west side, off the principal
village of Cagayan Sulu.

We here encountered none of the menacing style of rogues on the
eastern side; the people were willing to exchange cattle, poultry, and
vegetables for our articles of barter. Red and white cotton were the
most attractive, while empty bottles and midshipmen’s anchor buttons
fetched their full value.

[Sidenote: Dec. 22.]

Weighed and stood towards Mambahennan, a small island to the southward,
intending to come to for the night; but finding no anchorage, and the
sea being now comparatively clear of shoals, we stood to the eastward,
came to under the lee of an island, a sandy point.

[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]

About noon made some islands. Chart too incorrect to make out what they
are. Found anchorage under the lee of one of them.

[Sidenote: Dec. 24.]

Invalids improving but slowly. Our clergyman, Hannan, very far from
well; symptoms of breakdown of brain. Also the return of his delusion
that the Queen was coming to Labuan to put things to rights.

[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]

Not the merriest Christmas I ever passed. Ship’s company landed in
evening to amuse themselves in the jungle with their muskets. No
accidents occurred. Passengers dined with me. Poor Rajah still ill,
also his nephew, Brooke Brooke, the A.D.C.

[Sidenote: Sulu, Dec. 27.]

It was late when we came to an anchor. A good sprinkling on the sea of
fishing and trading boats, of picturesque build and rig, gave to this
place a pleasing appearance of life and animation, such as we had not
before witnessed.

The ship had been seen from the high land long before, and we were not
surprised by the appearance of some bustle taking place in the town:
lights were moving about all night. We imagined, and afterwards found
it to be the case, that they were removing their valuables, with their
women and children, to the mountains, as a precaution in case our visit
was hostile.

We had looked forward with much interest to our visit to Sulu, and were
not, on the whole, disappointed--though perhaps it may be considered
rather curious than interesting.

The English ensign was flying over a house, which we knew at once must
be that of Mr. Windham. An officer was sent to communicate and obtain
information.

The town is built, like most Malay places, partly on land and partly
in the sea; the former part was strongly stockaded and flanked with
batteries mounting heavy guns. The Sultan, under the influence and
counsel of the Rajah of Sarawak, had become opposed to piracy and
anxious for its suppression.

That portion of the town which is not within the stockades is built in
regular Malay fashion, on piles. The houses run in rows or streets;
and outside them is a platform about six feet wide. These rows of
birdcage-looking buildings extend into the sea for half a mile, over a
shoal which is nearly dry at low water. The population are principally
fishermen and Chinese traders.

[Sidenote: Dec. 28.]

Mr. Windham’s house was built on one of these rickety platforms, and at
low water it was necessary for us, who wore shoes and stockings, to be
carried from the boat and deposited on his accommodation-ladder, where
a kind welcome awaited us.

We found him dressed in Malay costume, and from long residence among
them he had assumed much of the appearance and manner of a native. He
willingly undertook the task of communicating with the Sultan, and
arranging an audience for Sir James Brooke.

The usual salutes were exchanged. Mr. Windham informed us that a short
time previously, when he was absent attending the pearl-fishing at the
Ceroo Islands, two Dutch men-of-war had arrived at Sulu, who, after
visiting and exchanging the usual salutes, suddenly attacked the town;
this accounted for the panic on the night of our arrival.

The Dutchmen, having fired on the town for some time, landed and burnt
a few houses, paying Mr. Windham the compliment of making particular
inquiries for his, which they destroyed, together with much valuable
property. He took us a short walk, I fancy about as far as he dared
himself venture, into the interior.

What we saw of the country was highly cultivated, consisting, with
intervals of jungle, of pasture-grounds and gardens, and an abundance
of cattle.

Our appearance excited much curiosity with the natives, and many
questions were asked, but the presence and explanation of Mr. Windham
satisfied them.

Before commencing our watering, it was necessary to make certain
arrangements, as a French squadron under Admiral Cecille had been
much molested during that operation a short time previously, and an
attempt had been made to poison the springs; all necessary precautions,
therefore, were taken on our part.

The _Jolly Bachelor_ was first placed a few yards from the
watering-place, which her howitzers completely covered.

Our people were charged to avoid offending the natives in any way
during their casual intercourse. Under these auspices our watering
progressed quickly and well.

It was not considered prudent to venture into the interior on shooting
excursions, but we heard that there were partridges and quail, wild
ducks, snipe, and teal. Monkeys, doves, and pigeons we saw. The beef we
found particularly good.

We went to see what they call their races, which were held in an
open space not far from the town, and observed groups of savage, but
picturesque-looking men, mounted on spirited, strong-built small
horses, of the Manila or Spanish breed; they were generally well armed,
bearing each a spear or lance.

Presently a man would dash out from the rest as a challenge; then one
from another group, or perhaps from the same, would ride up alongside;
then both would start off in lines of their own choosing, in a brisk
trot; at which pace the races were generally contested.

On several occasions I noticed a ruffian, apparently mounted no better
than his neighbours, start out from the crowd; but no one seemed to
accept the challenge.

These men were a sort of bravos, whom nobody cared to quarrel with, and
such an offence as beating them at a race would be sure to end in a
brawl.

[Sidenote: Dec. 30.]

This was the day appointed for Sir James Brooke’s interview with the
Sultan of Sulu. We landed in full dress at ten o’clock. Having walked
over the sea suburbs, and arrived at the beach, we found a guard
of honour and attendants waiting to conduct Brooke to the Sultan’s
presence; they were a motley group, but made themselves useful in
clearing the way.

Passing within the outer stockade, we arrived, after a few minutes’
walk, at the royal residence.

It was walled in and fortified. A large space was enclosed by double
rows of heavy piles driven into the earth, about 5 feet apart, and the
space filled up with large stones and earth, making a solid wall 15
feet high, with embrasures, or rather portholes, in convenient places
for cannon, out of which we noticed some rusty muzzles. Passing through
a massive gateway, well flanked with guns and loopholes, we entered a
large court, in which some two thousand persons were assembled, armed,
and in their best apparel, but observing no sort of order. It was a
wild and novel sight.

Malays are always armed. The kris to them is what the sword was to
an English gentleman in the Middle Ages. Every person who, by virtue
of his rank, or on any other pretext, could gain admittance, was
in attendance on this occasion; for our Rajah had become a justly
celebrated man in the great Eastern Archipelago, and was an object of
curiosity. The audience-chamber was not large. A table covered with
green cloth ran across the centre of it. Above the table, and round the
upper end of the room, sat a brilliant semicircle of personages, the
Sultan occupying a raised seat in the centre.

His Highness gave us a gracious reception, shaking hands with each
officer as he was presented. This ceremony over, chairs were placed for
Sir James and his suite. The scene was striking and gay.

The Sultan is a young-looking man, but with a dull and vacant
expression, produced by too frequent a use of opium. His lips were red
with the mixture of betel-nut and siri leaf which he chewed. He was
dressed in rich silks, red and green the predominant colours. A large
jewel sparkled in his turban, and he carried a magnificent kris.

The entire court was dressed in rich coloured brocades and silks, and
many of the guard wore ancient chain armour, covering the arms, and
reaching from throat to knee, their heads protected by skull-caps to
match.

Those armed with sword, spear, and kris did not look amiss, but
two sentries, placed to guard the entrance to this ancient hall of
audience, each shouldering a shabby-looking old Tower musket, of which
they seemed very proud, had an absurd effect.

Although no actual treaty was concluded, Sir James Brooke paved the way
for opening up commerce, and for cultivating a better understanding
with the natives.

Mr. Windham had been trying to persuade the Sulus to hoist the St.
George’s Cross in their trading prahus, as a badge of peaceful
mercantile occupation, by which they might be known to our cruisers,
but this suggestion had not yet been adopted.




CHAPTER XL

_MÆANDER_--CRUISING IN THE SULU SEA


[Sidenote: 1849. Jan. 3.]

We quitted Sulu with regret. I liked Windham--a comical mixture of
English honesty and native cunning.

Standing along the coast to the eastward, at 8 P.M. came to in a
beautiful and secure anchorage, protected by the Island of Toolyan,
said to belong to the English. Natives frightened. The scenery,
although no Kina-Balu, was more beautiful than any we had yet seen.

Our late arrival caused the same consternation as at Sulu. The same
noise and flitting about of lights; until one fine fellow, determined
to risk his life for the community, paddled alongside. When our pacific
intentions were made known confidence was quickly established.

This island is separated from Sulu by a narrow strait. It appeared well
cultivated; there were gardeners on shore and fishermen afloat, the
people more peaceably inclined than their neighbours; but we did not
trouble them, and proceeded for Samboangan.

[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]

Our invalids improved, with the exception of the chaplain, whose health
caused anxiety.

The excitement and interest of our cruise rather increased as we
proceeded. On the 5th we anchored off the Bolod Islands, and landed to
search for the eggs of a bird which, from the description given us, we
supposed to be the Megapodius.

[Sidenote: Jan. 8.]

Anchored off the west coast of the island of Basilair, the largest of
the Sulu Archipelago, on which the Spaniards have established a small
settlement, not without trouble, the inhabitants being hostile and
warlike, keeping their garrison on the alert. The French squadron,
under Admiral Cecille, sustained some loss in an attack by boats here.
The next day we worked our way between numerous small but beautiful
islands, only regretting we had not time to explore them.

[Sidenote: The Philippines.]

At 9 P.M. we came to off the fort of Samboangan. On the following
morning saluted the Spanish flag.

The settlement is on the south part of the Philippine group, and its
population reinforced by convicts from Manila.

[Sidenote: Jan. 9.]

The inhabitants are fierce, and celebrated for their piratical
propensities. We much enjoyed a few days in this comparatively
civilised place.

Owing to the clever management of the Governor, Don Cayetano de
Figueroa, Colonel of Engineers, a very sociable system of society
prevailed, uniting all classes--the proud Spanish dames not refusing to
meet in the same ballroom the pretty half-caste women who during the
mornings were engaged in washing clothes or retailing eggs and poultry
in the market.

The hospitality of the Governor provided for us at his residence early
every morning a cup of excellent chocolate. After _chôta hazari_,
horses being in readiness, he would accompany us, pointing out
everything worth seeing.

The settlement of Samboangan lies within narrow boundaries; but in the
immediate vicinity of the town the land was highly cultivated.

In our rides we were attended by boys carrying our guns, the jungle
abounding in varieties of doves and pigeons, also a bantam fowl.

We had dances and dinners on shore and on board; indeed it was with no
small regret we took leave of our kind and hospitable friends.

[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]

There is much in these regions to interest the conchologist and to
reward his researches among the rocks and seaweeds: finding I was a
collector, the officers of the Spanish marine supplied me from their
private collections with some beautiful specimens of the spondylus and
chama.

We left Samboangan in company with a fleet of gunboats that would have
done credit to any nation.

It must be confessed that in _systematic_ protection to the commerce of
their respective seas both Spain and Holland surpass us. The Spaniards,
alive to the truth that commerce and piracy cannot co-exist, have long
since maintained such a naval force as has not only driven away, but
_keeps_ at a distance from the Philippine Islands, those hordes who
used to inflict on their marine traffic such sacrifice of life and
property.

The Dutch, true to the same policy, and perhaps even more happy in
its exercise, have by a system of vigilance along the whole coast of
Java, so eradicated piracy from the Celebes, that murderers have been
converted into merchants.

[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]

Observing a sandbank to the north-west not mentioned in our charts,
we hauled up, intending to anchor near it and ascertain its correct
position.

With reduced sail we neared the island; and with the leads going,
look-out men at the masthead, and occasional cast of the deep-sea lead,
we approached the lee side and got within cables’ length of the beach
without obtaining bottom at 120 fathoms.

A line of breakers with overfalls extended off the north-west end,
having the appearance of a shelf of rocks, but these proved to be
nothing but a tide ripple as we stood near. The island was small, and
had the same appearance all round. On landing we found a patch of
glaring white sand, without a vestige of vegetation, surrounded by a
belt of coral about a mile and a half in circumference, and so steep
that I believe we might have rubbed the sides of the _Mæander_ against
it without obtaining bottom.

We found on this lonely coral island the solitary grave of a Mussulman.
Here was, indeed, a resting-place likely to be undisturbed.

[Sidenote: Cagayan Sulu, Jan. 19.]

Came to in ten fathoms, about a mile off the south side of Cagayan,
and commenced our examination of the curious circular lake before
mentioned. The entrance is by a gap. This, however, is crossed by a
bank of coral, which at low water is nearly dry, so to exclude any boat
larger than a canoe. Just outside the middle of the bar was a small
island of rock and sandstone, with a sufficient shelter to make an
excellent shaded spot for our picnic.

On passing the bar we found ourselves inside a magnificent circular
lake of deep blue water, with a circumference of about three miles, and
completely encircled by sandstone cliffs, upwards of 200 feet in height
and nearly perpendicular, covered with shrubs.

In the natural barriers of this remarkable enclosure only two small
breaks occurred--one was the gap by which we entered, the other was on
the E.N.E. side.

Nothing could be more luxuriant than the growth of trees and shrubs,
their trunks and branches covered with a variety of beautiful orchids
in brilliant blossom hanging in festoons to the water’s edge.

Over our heads, disturbed by such unusual visitors, numbers of
pigeons flew to and fro, while many varieties of the parrot uttered
remonstrances.

Formed ourselves into small parties--some to haul the seine, others
in search of shells, while a third explored the gap on the north-east
side, clambering up without any anticipation of a further treat.

At a height of about eighty feet another beautiful but smaller lake
burst in sight, circular in form, and as nearly as possible similar to
that which they had left.

The two lakes were separated by a natural wall; and the spectator
standing on its narrow edge could, by a turn of head, look at the depth
of thirty feet on the inner lake, or on the outer one, eighty feet
beneath him.

Men and axes were procured from the ship, the trees were cut down and a
path made up the gap, and so over to the fresh-water lake. A raft was
constructed, and with a small boat belonging to the tender launched
upon the water.

Our operations drew some natives to the spot, who expostulated and
informed us that the water of the upper lake was sacred, and had never
yet been desecrated by the presence of a canoe; that the Spirit of
the Lake (by description, a fiery dragon of the worst order) would be
annoyed at the innovation: nothing would induce them to venture on it.
These scruples were, however, got over by a glass of grog.

The inner lake was the finer of the two; it might at one time, by some
volcanic convulsion, have risen and burst through its barriers at this
spot into the lower basin, which in turn may have formed the gap in the
outer side.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

We now took up our old berth in the south-west bay of Cagayan Sulu,
and commenced an active barter for stock; this, however, was brought
to a sudden close on the 22nd, the natives taking fright at our shell
practice. We were exercising at general quarters, and a few of them
had remained to see the shot strike the target; but the double report
produced by these missiles was too much for Sulu nerves.

[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]

Sailed, making for the northward of Banguey, anchoring occasionally.

[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]

Came to in Victoria Bay, Labuan, and soon after landed Rajah Brooke,
restored to comparative health.

Found orders for our being in China by the end of March. Labuan is much
improved, residences having been shifted to where they ought to have
been at the beginning. Hugh Low better.

[Sidenote: Jan. 30.]

Breakfasted with, and took leave of, the Rajah, who shortly after went
to Sarawak. Weighed for Singapore.

[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]

Young Dalyell dined with me to keep his pretty sister Bijou’s birthday.

[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]

Anchored in Singapore Roads. Further orders for China, the
Commander-in-Chief thinking it advisable to have a force ready in case
the Government should have to enforce the treaty made by Sir John Davis
with the Chinese Government in 1847, by which the gates of the city of
Canton were to be opened to foreigners.

This treaty was likely to be disregarded by the Chinese, according
to opportunity, when the immediate danger should be removed: it was
made at the bayonet point, while our troops were in possession of the
environs of the Celestial City.

[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]

Among memos the Chief left was one directing any ship on her way to
Hong Kong to bring three heavy spars that were waiting passage to the
Government House for mast, topmast, and yard.

One was ninety-six feet long, a beautiful straight stick, but heavy as
lead, which no other ship on the station could or would carry. How to
get it on board was a difficulty.

Luckily we had a brig-of-war at anchor: I removed the cabin stern
windows on the starboard side, and the bulkheads of the fore and after
cabins. Secured the main-deck guns in-board fore and aft. The war-brig
undertook to lift one end of the spar to the level of our main-deck.

On board we had power enough to draw it to a snug berth, which gave us
a list. The topmast and yard we secured to the main and mizzen chains
on the port side.

We were going to Hong Kong, but were not afraid of the war junks even
in our disabled state.

[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]

Sailed for China, shaping our course so as to communicate with Sarawak
and Labuan.

_Auckland_ sailed before us with our marines, and poor Hannan, our
chaplain, invalided. I shall miss him much. Eleven of this fine corps
of marines had become victims to Labuan fever.

[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]

Left the ship, which came to off Santobong, in gig, up the river to
Sarawak.

Kindly received by Brooke, who had returned. The place flourishing, but
too many useless hangers-on about him! Took up the mail; no time to
spare.

[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]

Up early. Succeeded in getting on board in one tide. Weighed at once.

[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]

Caught a shark this afternoon--the first, by the bye, in this ship.
Measured about 5 feet, but amazingly powerful. He was cut up and eaten
within twenty minutes of his coming on board.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

Arrived early in Hong Kong Harbour. Found the Admiral recovering from
the effects of a paralytic stroke--poor, dear old boy!--very game
though. When I reported having the spars on board, he said, “More fool
you; if I could not bring them in a line-of-battle ship, how were you
to do it in a frigate?”

A most effective squadron met together, commanded by an unusually nice
set of fellows:--

[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Mar. 31.]

_Hastings_ (Flag), _Albatros_, 12, Commander, Arthur Farquhar;
_Scout_, 14, Commander, Frederick Johnstone; _Pilot_, 12, Edmund M.
Lyons; _Columbine_, 16, John C. D. Hay; _Arab_, 12, William Morris;
_Inflexible_, 6, steam sloop, John C. Hoseason; and the _Fury_, 6,
steam sloop, James Wilcox; the two latter at Whampoa. Tiffin with
Farquhar.

[Sidenote: April 2.]

Dined with General Staveley, C.B.; he an old friend at the Mauritius in
1829.

[Sidenote: April 4.]

Chinese reply, refusing to comply with the Treaty of Sir John Davis,
and we about to pocket the insult.

[Sidenote: April 10.]

Finding there was no intention on the part of our Government to enforce
the Davis Treaty, the Chief left in _Inflexible_ to visit the northern
ports; he ordered _Hastings_ to Singapore, dispersed the sloops,
_Albatros_ to Borneo, and the others to their respective stations at
the ports in China, opened to trade by the Pottinger Treaty. _Mæander_
was left to take care of Hong Kong.

How little our Government knew about China.

[Illustration: Mæander, _Hong Kong. Manned Yards on Departure of Sir
Francis Collier._]




CHAPTER XLI

_MÆANDER_--HONG KONG


[Sidenote: 1849. Hong Kong, April to May.]

Nothing unusual took place during our stay here. Various acts of
piracy, attended by cruel murders, occurred between Hong Kong and the
entrance to the Canton River; but this could not be called unusual.

Some of the rogues were taken by the _Inflexible_, and six of them
hanged at West Point; but so little effect had this example that a
fresh act of piracy was committed within sight of the suspended sinners
and the sentry’s musket.

The Admiral returned in the _Fury_ on the 20th May, much benefited by
his trip to the northern ports.

He sailed again on the 26th, leaving us to await the arrival of the
_Amazon_, 26, from England. She came in the following day, and we
prepared to return to our old station in the Eastern Archipelago; but
before our departure an event occurred which gave an unanticipated
notoriety to our short sojourn.

Were I to pass it unnoticed, my motive might be mistaken; but as the
narrative must unavoidably be egotistical, those of my readers who have
no inclination to discuss a point of international law, nor to see how
it was decided, on this occasion at least, by a British boat’s crew
and a party of marines, may pass to the next chapter.

Just before the arrival of the _Amazon_, I received an invitation,
through my young friend, Mr. Robert Ellice (Honorary Secretary on the
occasion), to act as joint umpire with Commodore Geisinger, United
States Navy, at a regatta which had been got up, chiefly by Mr. Bush,
the American Consul at Hong Kong--he kindly giving a cup to be sailed
for.

[Sidenote: June.]

The event was to come off, weather permitting, on the 8th June. To this
proposal I cheerfully acceded.

As the _Medea_, Commander Lockyer, was cruising outside for the
suppression of piracy, and the _Columbine_, Commander John Dalrymple
Hay, was coming down from Whampoa about that time for provisions, I
wrote to each of these officers, inviting them to meet me; and as I
had to give up the charge of the station to Captain Troubridge of the
_Amazon_ (which could be done as well at Macao), we agreed to meet
there on the 7th.

[Sidenote: Macao, June 7.]

The American squadron, consisting of the _Plymouth_, the _Peebles_, and
the _Dolphin_, added to our own, made a gay show in the roads; the Hong
Kong steamers were also called into requisition, and brought nearly all
those who had not found their way in the men-of-war.

Having fired the usual salute on arrival, I proceeded with Captain
Troubridge on the following morning to pay our respects to the
Governor, Don Joao Maria Farriera do Amaral.

I may here mention he was a captain in the Portuguese Navy--a gallant
and distinguished officer.

He lost his right arm by a cannon shot, when eighteen years of age,
leading a storming party at Itaparica in Brazil.

He had served also in the fleet of Don Pedro under Sir Charles Napier,
and spoke and understood English as well as we did.

Don Joao received us most cordially, and in the course of conversation
said he had broken through a rule, by accepting an invitation to
dine with Mr. Forbes (an American gentleman to whom we were likewise
engaged), as he would not forego the pleasure of meeting his brother
officers.

Taking our leave, we proceeded to the room in which we were to arrange
the starting of the vessels for the cup.

At the door I was met by Captain Staveley, Military Secretary to his
father, General Staveley, C.B., commanding at Hong Kong, who requested
my assistance in getting a gentleman released, who had been imprisoned
the previous evening, he believed, for not saluting the “Host,” during
a procession on the Feast of Corpus Christi.

I immediately expressed my willingness to apply to the Governor,
remarking that he was a very good fellow, and I was sure would not
hesitate to comply with my request.

Accordingly, Troubridge and myself, accompanied by Captain Staveley,
returned to the Government House.

Without waiting to be announced, we proceeded at once to the apartment
in which we had just before left Señor Amaral, and we found him seated
with the French Chargé d’Affaires, M. le Baron de Forth Rouen.

I apologised for the intrusion; His Excellency, rising, accompanied me
to one of the windows.

I then stated that I was come to ask a favour--that he would be so kind
as to give an order for the release of a Mr. Summers, who, it appeared,
had been confined in the common prison all night for not saluting the
“Host.”

I concluded by remarking that, in all probability, His Excellency had
heard nothing of the business.

To this he sharply replied, that not only did he know all about it, but
that the person in question had been confined by his order.

I then remarked to His Excellency that the punishment (Mr. Summers had
been confined in the common jail, without food, since five o’clock the
previous afternoon) had surely been equal to the offence; and I again
expressed a hope that the Governor would order his release.

On this he stated that Mr. Summers was sent to prison, not for any
disrespect to the “Host,” “for which he (the Governor) cared, perhaps,
as little as I did,” but for disobeying his order.

I inquired, “What order?”

He replied, “The order I gave him to take his hat off.”

I then said, “Do I understand your Excellency rightly, that you could
order any person you chose to take off his hat in the open streets?”

To this he replied, “Exactly so.”

I then said that this altered the case, and that I must now request the
immediate liberation of Mr. Summers, as I could not consider that the
alleged offence for which he was imprisoned was any crime at all.

I further added that I could hardly believe that I had heard now, in
the nineteenth century, the Governor of a Portuguese settlement assert
that he had imprisoned a British subject for refusing to take his hat
off in the open streets, when ordered by him, through a soldier, to do
so.

The Governor replied that I was not acquainted with Portuguese law.

I said, “Very likely not, but I know what common justice is”; and,
having bowed, retired.

When I had got halfway down the steps, the Governor, calling me by
name, asked if I came to demand Mr. Summers’s liberation as a right, or
to ask it as a favour.

I replied, that while I believed Mr. Summers had neglected to take
off his hat, as was customary, on the passing of one of the religious
ceremonies of the country, I had asked it as a personal favour; but
since His Excellency had explained that Mr. Summers was confined for
what I conceived to be no crime at all, I really could not, in the
position I then occupied, ask for his liberation as a favour.

After this unexpected termination to our interview, we retired to the
residence of my friend, Mr. Patrick Stewart, situated within a few
doors of Government House, to consider with Captain Troubridge what
steps should next be taken.

I felt it my duty to demand in writing the immediate release of Mr.
Summers; considering, however, the warm temperament of Señor do Amaral,
and the bearing towards me which he had already assumed, I could
scarcely augur for the more formal application that success which had
been denied to my friendly intercession.

[Sidenote: June 8.]

I thought it advisable, therefore, to make the necessary arrangements
in anticipation of denial.

Owing to the shoalness of the water, no ship of any size could anchor
within three miles of the landing place. The boats of the squadron
were preparing to pull at the regatta.

I sent a gig off to the First Lieutenant of the _Mæander_, with an
order to him to make the signal, “Prepare to land boats for service.”

Captain Staveley, in the meantime, undertook to make himself
acquainted, without exciting suspicion, with the position and state of
the prison, the route to it, and how it was guarded, etc.

To effect this he assumed a white jacket, the usual costume of
mercantile gentlemen; and, taking with him a basket of fruit, he walked
up and obtained an interview with the prisoner, returning with the
information we required.

I wrote and sent off by Captain Troubridge an official letter to the
Governor, demanding, as senior naval officer, the immediate release of
Summers.

To which he replied, saying he considered himself within his right in
ordering the man to take his hat off, and waiving the religious aspect
of the offence.

To dance attendance beyond this point on Portuguese justice at Macao
seemed to me unworthy of my position and hopeless as to the object.

I was referred to the Judge, who, in his turn, would have referred me
back to the Governor, whose tool he was, and with whom alone I could
properly hold official intercourse; in the meantime Mr. Summers must
lie in prison awaiting the “course of law,” which had before now left
British subjects to die incarcerated in this very prison.

I decided on liberating him at once.

To do so with the least possible risk of a disastrous incident was now
the great object.

A second boat being despatched to the _Mæander_, with directions that
the signal should be made “Boats to land immediately,” I went on board
the _Canton_ steamer, which was moored off the town, and took my place
as umpire at the regatta, which was about to commence.

We started the sailing-boats, and, shortly afterwards observing some of
the boats on their way to the shore in obedience to signal, I excused
myself for a few minutes and again landed.

The first boat to arrive was the _Mæander’s_ barge, commanded by Mr.
Burnaby, with a crew of twelve blue-jackets and six marines. I asked
Staveley whether he thought he could, by a _coup-de-main_, release Mr.
Summers with that one boat’s crew?

To this he gallantly replied that he had no objection to try,
stipulating only, like a good general, that I should secure his retreat.

Upon this I requested Burnaby, who had charge of the barge’s crew, to
attend to his wishes.

Passing quickly through a house which had a back entrance to the Senate
Square, and so to the street in which the prison stood, Staveley and
his party immediately proceeded.

The cutter from the _Mæander_ arriving next, I directed its crew to
take charge of the house through which Captain Staveley had passed,
placing sentries at each door.

The third boat had just arrived, when my attention was attracted
towards Senate Square by the report of musketry.

Leaving orders with the officer in charge of the landing-place to pay
_every attention_ to His Excellency should he land before my return
(which was not improbable, since he must have seen all that was going
on from on board the _Plymouth_), I was hastening to the scene of
action, when I met Captain Staveley walking down, arm-in-arm, with Mr.
Summers, the rear brought up by the barge’s crew.

I immediately sent to stop the disembarkation of any more men.

The whole business from the landing of the barge’s crew until their
return to the boat with Mr. Summers did not occupy a quarter of an hour.

The arms from the launch and barge were transferred to the pinnace,
and the boats, with the exception of those which were to pull for the
prizes, were ordered back to their respective ships.

I returned to the _Canton_, and had the pleasure of seeing the two best
prizes won by the launch and barge of the _Mæander_.

I learned from Staveley that his party had to cross the Square to get
to the street in which the prison was situated. On the left side of the
Square was the entrance to the arsenal, near which was a battery of
four field-pieces with a guard.

When abreast of this battery, Staveley directed Burnaby, with the
blue-jackets, to possess themselves of the guns and remain there until
his return, he proceeding with the marines to the prison.

The sentry at the prison presented his musket at Staveley, upon which
the corporal of marines wounded him in the arm, causing him to drop his
musket. This proved to be superfluous, as the musket was found to be
unloaded.

The jailer dropping his bunch of keys, and the guard having vanished,
the liberation of Mr. Summers was the work of a few seconds.

I am sorry, however, to add that this object was not effected without
one serious casualty: a Portuguese soldier was killed by a musket-shot,
whether from the weapon of his countrymen we could not determine; the
victim was said to have been unarmed.

Captain Staveley in his official report stated that some shots were
exchanged between our men and the Portuguese, the latter firing into
the Square from the windows of the barracks, in which way they probably
killed their own comrade; but the point is not worth discussing, as it
could neither lessen nor increase my responsibility.

For this I was reprimanded by the Admiralty, and thanked by Lord
Palmerston.




[Illustration: _A Spanish Galleon_]

CHAPTER XLII

IN EASTERN SEAS


[Sidenote: 1849. Macao, June 9.]

We left the scene of this “untoward event” on the morning of June 9. On
the 21st anchored in Manila Bay.

Respecting either the Bay or the City, it would be difficult to write
anything new, having so recently described the visit of the _Dido_ to
this hospitable place.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

We were interested in the remains of an old Spanish galleon, at anchor
off Cavite Point; the same class so greedily sought by our cruisers in
days gone by.

[Sidenote: July 2.]

Sailed from Manila, July 2.

[Sidenote: Balabec, July 16.]

In these intricate seas it took most of the day for the master and
myself to study the charts and sailing directions, as supplied by the
Admiralty.

We so arranged that the master should keep the middle, while I took
charge of the morning watch.

[Sidenote: July 17.]

It was on the 17th that I relieved the master; he assuring me that
we were now past, as far as the Admiralty charts and directions were
concerned, all dangers, and that I might wash decks or make sail as I
liked.

Decided on making sail, standing to the westward in open sea; nothing
in sight.

This done, we were in the act of coiling up ropes for washing decks,
while on the starboard-hammock netting I felt that unpleasant sensation
of the ship scraping the bottom, just as the headsman sang out, “nine
fathoms.”

She would not answer her helm, but stuck fast.

As the sails came down and hands turned up, boatswain piped “Out
boats,” the other watch rushed to their stations, as good men will,
without inquiring the cause.

We had taken the ground at the top of high-water; boats went away to
sound. Booms and spars over the side to support her, as the tide left;
guns slung, buoyed, and cast overboard.

Pinnace, Lieutenant Comber, sent to Labuan for assistance. The launch
laid out best bower-anchor in the direction in which we came.

[Sidenote: July 18.]

The next morning at half-past seven the ship lifted.

The heaviest part was the weighing and replacing guns. The launch
lifted the guns and brought them alongside; the main-yard tackle,
properly secured, had to weigh them, the fall was passed round the
quarter-deck capstan.

Boys manned the bars and ran round; but when the gun reached the
surface it required men at the capstan to hoist it over the hammock
netting.

[Illustration: Mæander _on Shore_.]

I mention this to show what every engineer knows, the extraordinary
power and buoyancy of salt water.

[Sidenote: July 19.]

By breakfast-time we were steering, with all sail set, for Balambangan;
and, if the rusty appearance of the muzzles of the guns had not told
tales, no one who met us could have seen that anything had happened.

[Sidenote: July 20.]

Met in Kimanis Bay the H.E.T.C. steam-frigate _Semiramis_, Commander
Daniell, with our pinnace in tow. They manned the rigging and gave us
three hearty cheers.

Comber told me that, after the tide fell, the ship had the appearance
of lying on the top of a hill.

[Sidenote: July 22.]

Came to off Coal Point, Labuan. Coal had become so scarce at Singapore
that the Commander-in-Chief had sent to borrow some from the Dutch
Government at Batavia.

All the surface coal had been picked off by the then contractors,
before the Charter was granted to the Eastern Archipelago Company to
supply our steamers, and that part of the seam at which they were now
working was some 200 yards from the water’s edge.

By working in the cool of the morning and evening, we put on board in a
few days 150 tons, filling the after-hold.

[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]

We had just completed our dirty job, when the news reached us that the
Sekarran and Serebas pirates had put to sea, and that the _Albatros_,
Captain Farquhar, accompanied by Sir James Brooke and his native force,
was out in search of them: by the time we got to the Bornean coast
the fleet of pirates had been destroyed. Conceive my ill-luck! Lucky
Farquhar!

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

Arrived at Singapore. Ran with our cargo into New Harbour by the
western entrance.

[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]

_Hastings_, with flag flying, arrived in the roads in tow of _Fury_
from Trincomalee.

Having reported to the Admiralty the natural advantages of the Inner
Harbour of Singapore as a coaling-station over twelve months ago,
and no notice having been taken of my letter, I now sent a similar
statement, with survey, to the Secretary of the P. and O. Company.

Found the _Australia_ schooner at Singapore, sent to us by the
Admiral from Trincomalee, to man and take to Sydney for the Colonial
Government. Sent Lieutenant Comber and eight men in charge of her.

[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]

_Hastings_ left for China in tow of _Fury_; a farewell salute for Sir
Francis Collier.

[To my sorrow we never met again. He died in China shortly after we
left the station.]

[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]

We took leave of our many kind friends, and proceeded on a more
interesting voyage than usually falls to the lot of a man-of-war.

Our orders were, after having removed the garrison and stores from Port
Essington, to visit Sydney and Auckland, and call at the Friendly and
Society Islands on our way to Valparaiso.

With these instructions came a private letter from Rear-Admiral J. W.
Deans Dundas, Second Sea Lord, from which I quote the following:--

    I need not recommend Lead and Look Out to ye, but the Straits
    are difficult and so are Society Islands.

    Keep _Mæander_ off the ground, and when there is a doubt, put
    her head round. God speed ye.--Yours faithfully,

    J. W. D. DUNDAS.

The _Australia_ was sent in advance, with directions to wait for us in
the Straits of Sunda. We ran between the Islands of Banca and Billiton
on the 29th, and anchored in Anjer roads on October 1.

Anjer is nothing in itself: a small Dutch town and fort, clean, as
Dutch places are, with a large, comparatively dirty-looking Malay
village attached, inhabited partly by Chinese.

The tree of Anjer is a striking object, a Banyan of great size, growing
close to the landing-place. From its summit rises a flagstaff, from
which floats the tricoloured flag of the Netherlands Government.

[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]

Anjer is the resort of vessels passing through the Straits, and may
be considered the key of the Eastern Archipelago. Letters left here,
properly addressed, find their way to any part of the world.

The boats which come alongside are laden with a variety of fruits,
vegetables, live-stock, monkeys, parrots, etc., to suit the tastes and
wants of the outward or homeward bound traders.

Having despatched the schooner to Sydney by the western coast of
Australia, we weighed on the afternoon of October 3.

Our route to the eastward for the next 3000 miles lay between the 6th
and 10th degrees of latitude, during which we should pass a succession
of beautiful islands, with the sea in all probability so smooth that a
canoe might live in it: the finest weather and the prevailing winds in
our favour.

[Sidenote: Java, Oct. 6.]

A short run carried us into Batavia Roads. On nearing this spacious
anchorage, in which the flags of all nations may be seen, from the
prahus of the Spice Islands to the fine traders of the United States,
you are at once impressed with the idea that you are approaching a
large and opulent city.

We passed inside the fortified island of Onrust, on which stands the
great Naval Arsenal.

Saluted the Dutch Admiral, while running in, with 13 guns, and the
Netherlands flag with 21.

A United States ship near us had a cargo of Wenham Lake ice, the master
of which sent to inform our officers that they were welcome to as much
ice as they liked.

I have always found much generosity and frankness among the officers of
the American marine.

They “calculate” and they “guess,” and have a fair notion of the value
of a dollar, and are smart fellows at a bargain; they occasionally deal
a little in the marvellous sea-serpent line, but they are amusing, with
one exception, which will appear hereafter.

Batavia deserves a great deal more notice than we had time to bestow
upon it, being the capital of all the Dutch possessions in the Far
East, with a mixed population, chiefly Javanese, of about 120,000.

Like Manila, the city is approached from seaward by a long straight
canal, running between two massive walls; and, as there is a strong
current generally setting out, the easiest way to stem it is to land
the crew and track the boat.

The houses near the sea, although large and handsome buildings, are
used for business purposes only. The situation is on a swampy flat, and
at certain times unhealthy.

The appearance of a British man-of-war is so uncommon, that the
_Mæander_ excited considerable speculation; but when we had stated our
destination, and that our chief object was to pay our respects to His
Serene Highness, Duke Bernard of Saxe-Weimar, the explanation seemed to
be satisfactory.

I had met His Serene Highness last year at Madeira.

We were entertained at a grand dinner given by the Duke of Saxe-Weimar,
General and Commander-in-Chief, whose example was followed by several
of the heads of departments. Dinners and balls followed in rapid
succession.

The Batavia races took place while we were there, most of the prizes
being carried off by horses of English breed. The enterprising members
of this Turf Club gave a ball and supper, and made their appearance in
scarlet coats.

Even during this short stay in the roads, some of those whose hammocks
were in the fore-part of the ship, and got the first of the land
breeze, did not escape the fatal effects of malaria.

[Sidenote: Oct. 16.]

Sailed 16th. Kept along the Java Coast.

The fishing-boats, or “flying canoes of Java,” as they are not inaptly
styled, were objects of surprise and admiration. They are long, with
just beam enough to enable a man to sit between the gunwales.

Passing Maduira and Java, we came abreast of the Island of Bali,
the only island in the Archipelago where the two great forms in the
Hindoo religion, the Brahminical (the original) and the Bhuddist (the
reformed), exist together, undisturbed.

Bali has a remarkably high peak; and looks like a mountain sloping out
into extensive fertile and rich plains, producing two crops a year;
and as we passed along we saw abundance of cattle, fruit-trees, and
vegetables.

[Sidenote: Nov. 5.]

It would be superfluous for me to attempt to describe all the beautiful
islands we passed.

Beyond the influence of Dutch protection, no more fishing canoes
enlivened the scene; no smoke rose from the numerous inlets along the
coasts to indicate the abodes of human beings. In the dense green
vegetation of the jungle, death-like stillness reigned supreme.

In the course of our run, we passed numerous volcanic mountains; and
when in the 123rd degree of longitude, two islands attracted special
attention.

One, Comba, of a conical shape, had all day been shooting up vast
volumes of smoke. After dark, when at the distance of a couple of
miles, we opened out the eastern side and observed the crater boiling
over in immense masses, rolling down the side of the mountain, losing
none of its brightness until it reached the sea, boiling the water.

[Illustration: _Comba._]

After passing Timor, and shaping a course more to the south-east,
between the two small islands of Babi and Kambing (Pig and Goat),
leaving Welta on our port side, we steered for Port Essington. A strong
current set us to the westward.

When working up the Australian coast, we were boarded by a canoe, with
a crew of six of the veriest-looking savages we had yet beheld.

[Sidenote: Nov. 11.]

One pair of trousers, the only article of apparel between them. The
then wearer announced himself, in tolerable English, as one of the
tribe attached to the settlement of Port Essington.

[Sidenote: Nov. 12.]

We came to on the evening of November 12, in the outer anchorage, and
communicated to Captain M‘Arthur, then in command of the Royal Marines,
the agreeable and unexpected intelligence that we were come to remove
them.

While the garrison rejoiced, the natives, especially the women, showed
their grief by cutting their heads and faces with sharp flints, and
otherwise disfiguring their already unprepossessing persons.

Port Essington is situated on Coburg Peninsula, at the most northern
part of Australia. It was discovered by Captain Philip King, in his
survey between the years of 1818 and 1821; and formed, after the
settlements of Melville Island and Raffles Bay had been abandoned, a
harbour of refuge for vessels bound through Torres Straits, as well as
a convenient place for holding commercial intercourse with the Eastern
Archipelago.

The settlement was established by Captain Sir J. Gordon Bremer in the
_Alligator_, assisted by Commander Owen Stanley in the _Britomart_ in
October 1838.

They named the town Victoria: it consisted of a few wooden houses and
small huts, sufficient for the accommodation of the garrison, built
near the head of the harbour, some sixteen miles from the entrance. A
better site might have been selected nearer the sea, which would have
been cooler, and better supplied with water.

[Illustration: Mæander _off Port Essington_.]

A deeper anchorage, too, might have been considered; although, for
convenience, we took the _Mæander_ up off the settlement, we were much
too near the bottom had it been the stormy season.

The country about Port Essington is undulating; there are ranges of
hills 10 or 15 miles from the settlement, rising to about 450 feet,
visible from the harbour.

It is an unhealthy climate; the most frequent afflictions are
intermittent fevers and impairment of the digestive organs, caused by
the moist heat of the land-locked harbour, the swamps, and mangrove
marshes.

There are tribes of natives on Coburg Peninsula, differing but little
in physical appearance, manners, and customs, but speaking a different
dialect. They meet occasionally to make corroboree, a kind of dramatic
dance, more famous for its noise than anything else.

A dread of invasion from the cannibal tribes in the interior made them
unite, and was another cause of regret at the removal of the marines.

[Illustration: _An Australian Grave._]

When a native dies, he is wrapped in the bark of a tree, and bound
round with cord.

A stage is made, by placing two forked branches, eight or ten feet in
height, upright in the ground, the forks uppermost, distant from each
other about five or six feet and facing the tree.

A piece of wood is placed transversely, resting on the upright
branches. Upon this inclined stage the body, wrapped in its coffin of
bark, is laid, and there it remains.

These places of deposit are avoided by the natives. Evil spirits
haunt them; when they are obliged to pass, they carry a fire-stick
to propitiate the spirit of darkness. Curiously enough, this mode of
disposing of their dead is common all over Australia, and, to their
credit, the blacks have never disturbed or defaced the graves of the
Europeans buried at Port Essington.

We only remained long enough to be amused and interested with
everything we saw, enjoying excursions into the country; and the fact
of my having control over a quantity of damaged bread made the natives
very obliging.

We had corroborees so often, that the kangaroo dance was as well
performed on the main-deck of the _Mæander_, thousands of miles from
where it originated, as we had seen it on the spot.

During our stay, shooting-parties were got up. The best of the lagoons
are situated on the eastern side of the harbour; where there is a
succession of them. The jungle, through which we rode, was open below
but shaded overhead.

We were attended by marines who had been longest on the station, more
intelligent in the jungle than the natives, who joined us for the sake
of what they were likely to get to eat, were cheerful and obliging, and
useful in carrying our ammunition, provender, and tents.

Among the marines there were a few who, having a taste for that sort of
life, had for years supplied the settlement with game, and eventually
became experienced hunters, and excelled the natives in sagacity in all
that appertains to the mysteries of the jungle.

These men alone were enough to make a bush-party agreeable.

Highest in military rank was Sergeant Copp, a steady, untiring, keen
sportsman. Corporals Rowe, Chalford, and Jeffries were all good shots,
good-tempered, hard-working fellows, for whom the natives would do
anything.

It was wonderful to see the dexterity with which they would light a
fire and erect a bush-hut.

They were all cooks; Private Crayton, super-excellent. He had been a
London butcher, and was sharp and intelligent.

Among them was Hutchings, a huge fellow. He used to prefer going
alone, and never returned empty-handed; more generally hung round
with game,--fifteen or twenty geese, a whole flock of ducks, a native
companion or two as long as himself, two or three kangaroos, and a
handkerchief full of small birds (specimens of natural history), the
only part of him visible being his great red face, besmeared with
perspiration and blood.

At the time of our visit these extensive swamps were, with the
exception of occasional patches and a few holes, quite dry, and covered
over with a crust of land clay sufficiently strong to bear our weight,
but not that of our horses; the latter were nearly bogged on more than
one occasion.

It was late the first day when we arrived on our ground, and we had
only time to light fires and pitch our tents on the banks of a stream
when the sun went down.

While we were preparing for supper, an iguana about two feet long
ran past me, and at the same pace mounted a tree. I pointed out the
disgusting animal to one of our natives. In less time than it takes me
to write, he was caught by the tail, split up the back, spread out
with skewers, roasted, and eaten.

Long before the break of day we heard that peculiar noise occasioned by
the wings of wild-fowl: then came the low, distant cackle of geese, and
the strange noise of the whistling-duck passing overhead.

I believe we were all alike in a state of excitement. Daylight came at
last, but with it an excitement of another kind.

No one experiencing what we did, could ever forget the myriads of
flies. Everything was black with them--the ground, the air, our food.
They clung to our clothes, they stuck to our faces. To rid ourselves of
them, we stripped and rushed into the water, diving to get clear--but
no! they would hover about and swarm on any part of our bodies that
appeared above the surface.

We were not entirely free for one moment, until we left them and our
sport together. Never before had I fully understood the curse of that
particular plague of Egypt.

However, by spreading a silk handkerchief over the head, and keeping
it in its place with a light straw hat, we succeeded in protecting
our necks and faces from the thickest of them; and as there was just
sufficient wind to keep the corners of the head-dress flapping about,
we thus partially disappointed our tormentors.

With the exception of this one drawback, better sport we could not have
had. There was room for any number of guns.

The geese have one peculiarity--they perch upon trees, so that an
unskilful sportsman may have, in his way, as much amusement as the man
who brings down his geese right and left from a considerable height.

In spite of the flies we remained several days in nearly the same
locality. Those who disliked them and preferred more violent exercise
found it in the pursuit of kangaroo, only obtained with some pains and
labour, but the tail afforded excellent soup.

The geese and ducks also we found delicious eating.

The lagoons, too, were excellent places for sport: they are between 200
and 300 acres in extent, surrounded by forest trees, and with numerous
little retiring coves about them, in which we might conceal ourselves
and watch for the game; but, except as retreats from the sun, which was
oppressively hot, these hiding-places were not necessary, as the geese
were such geese that they did not understand the use of powder and
shot, and at the same time it seemed they imagined that on the top of
a tree they were safe. If, after a while, one particular set got more
knowing, there were often lagoons with fresh geese at no distance.

The natives will kill almost every kind of bird with their spears or
throwing-sticks. With water-fowl they are so expert that by stealing
close to them, or lying motionless for a while in one of the patches of
water when the lagoons are dry, they catch their legs with their hands.

On observing, while shooting, a spot that looked as if it had only just
been quitted by some wild beast, and not feeling quite comfortable, I
questioned a native as to what it meant; he immediately imbedded his
body into the muddy hole, and had I not seen him go in I should have
trodden on him. One of their ways of taking a dirty advantage of the
game!

On one occasion, while near the entrance to the harbour, a whole tribe
of natives,--men, women, children, and dogs,--without the slightest
hesitation entered the river to swim across, the small children holding
on to the long hair of the mothers.

Within a few yards I observed a huge alligator asleep in the sun.

When the dusky tribe were safe across, I awoke my sleepy friend with
the contents of both barrels. He lifted his head and sloped into the
water, being only tickled with my No. 4.

We destroyed, according to orders, what still remained of the
settlement. The buildings could have been of no use to the natives, and
would probably have been the cause of bloodshed.

I said one day to “Bob,” an intelligent savage, “Do you intend to take
possession of the Governor’s house after we are gone?”

He replied with an air of indifference, “I suppose I must.”

We heard afterwards that Bob had grown so conceited that they were
under the necessity of putting a spear through his body.

We had another reason for not leaving the houses in anything like a
habitable state: had they looked too comfortable there would have been
an inducement to other parties to try their hands at a settlement on
the same spot--an object that was not considered desirable by the
Government.

There is no doubt that there should be some port or refuge for disabled
ships or wrecked crews on this coast; and as soon as the corrected
charts of the surveys of that zealous and indefatigable officer, the
late Captain Owen Stanley, shall have been published, the channel by
Torres Straits will be oftener frequented.

From what I could learn no better place could be found than Cape York
or Port Albany, which have all the advantages Port Essington lacks, and
are not more than a mile out of the way of vessels going from Sydney to
India.

There were two schooners of forty or fifty tons that I amused myself
in destroying with five-inch shells and a fuse which burns under
water--passing a line under the bow and bringing the ends as far aft as
the main-mast.

It was easy to attach a fuse and draw the shell close up to the keel.
There was plenty of time to take up a position in my gig, half cable
length astern, before the burning fuse reached the shell, when the
explosion was beautiful. Some of the spars went into the air, while the
bow and stern shook hands as they went below.

Besides what had been used for domestic purposes, there was a small
mountain of empty casks which made a glorious attempt at fireworks
before we left.

We left behind at Port Essington a number of cattle; there were already
many quite wild in the bush that had escaped from the settlement at an
earlier period and increased in numbers.

Several horses were also left. In our excursions I frequently noticed
the footprints, not only of those that had been running wild for years,
but of young foals.

The garrison, marching down to embark, with the band at their head, did
not excite sufficient interest to draw the blackfellows, except a few
of the softer sex, from their search for what they could find among the
ruins of the buildings.

During our stay we lost our surgeon, Mr. John Clarke--a man who, by his
kind and gentle manner and his amiable disposition, endeared himself
to us all. He contracted a disease at Hong Kong, from which he never
perfectly recovered.




CHAPTER XLIII

_MÆANDER_


[Sidenote: 1849. Nov. 30.]

Completed embarkation of the party composing the late settlement,
consisting of the Commandant, Captain M‘Arthur, Captain Lambrick,
Lieutenant Dunbar, three sergeants, three corporals, twenty-seven
privates, four women, and one kid; also Mr. M‘Arthur, a commissioned
agent, and son to the Commandant.

We also brought away, besides stores, stock of all kinds--bullocks,
sheep, and goats--guns left by _Pelorus_.

Starting with only fifty tons of not the best water, we decided on
going to Sydney by the route north of New Guinea, and watering at
either Banda or Amboyna.

Proceeding to the northward and again crossing the chain of islands
between the Serwatty and Tenimber groups, we were carried by a few
days’ pleasant sailing to the Banda Islands.

[Sidenote: Banda, Dec.]

The principal of the group are three in number: Banda-Neura--on which
the town is built--and Gunong Api, a volcanic island close to, and in a
line with it; they have a narrow but deep channel between them.

Opposite, and to the southward of these two, in a semicircular form,
is the larger island of Banda, having a rather narrow passage at either
end. The space thus enclosed forms the very charming harbour of Banda.

We were becalmed in the western entrance, and while the current swept
us up mid-channel to the anchorage, we furled sails and hoisted our
boom-boats out; and when we came to, close off the capital, we were in
proper harbour costume.

The view of the islands from the ship would form a beautiful panorama.

The picturesque town, which is built on a flat, ought, from the
appearance of Fort Belgica, above and in the rear of it, to be well
protected.

Gunong Api, a striking feature in the scene, is high and conical in
shape. Smoke issued from the top, but an eruption had not taken place
in the memory of residents.

From the crater downwards, one-third of the distance, it appeared a
mass of cinders; from that point vegetation commences, increasing
towards its base, where stand many cottages and fishing huts.

The opposite and more mountainous island surpasses the other two in
beauty of appearance.

Little rivulets of cool, delicious water run from the high land to
the harbour, from which we watered the ship. The jungle abounds in a
variety of beautiful birds, especially of the pigeon sort. Deer are to
be obtained with a little trouble. Some of the merchants and most of
the proprietors of the hunting plantation have houses on this side.

We were most hospitably received by the Dutch authorities; nothing that
the island produced, which could be considered a novelty to us, that we
were not presented with.

It would be difficult to describe the endless variety as well as
beauty of the parrots and lowries that were sent on board; also the
magnificent crown pigeon of Papua, nearly as large as a turkey. We
had as many as eighteen at one time, three pairs of which were twenty
months on board, and some of them are now in the gardens of the
Zoological Society.

One very pretty compliment was paid to us, which I must not omit to
record.

A ball was given by the Governor in honour of our visit; and in the
course of the evening, shortly before midnight, the dance suddenly
stopped, glasses were put into our hands, champagne flowed into them,
and the health of Queen Victoria was proposed by His Excellency in an
appropriate speech.

We swallowed our wine as the clock struck twelve, the band playing our
National Anthem, while a royal salute was firing over our heads from
the fort, during which we were expected to be continually refilling
glasses.

The following evening we were invited to a dance given on the opposite
shore.

Our boats were in requisition, and as they passed under the stern of
the frigate at eight o’clock, we took advantage of the opportunity
to return the compliment by saluting the Netherlands flag, which we
hoisted at the yard-arms, giving His Excellency and family three
British cheers.

A fine bull, named “John,” from Port Essington was much admired. I
presented him to His Excellency, and hope he has not taken possession
of the island.

Leaving Banda, _en route_ to Pitt’s Straits, we touched at the Ceram
Islands, and under the pilotage of Mr. James M‘Arthur came to, in
certainly not the most secure-looking anchorage.

[Sidenote: Ceram, Dec. 17.]

The island of Ceram is the second in size of the Moluccas, having an
estimated area of about 10,000 square miles, but owing to the jealousy
of my friends, the Dutch, it is but imperfectly known. Their object,
until of late years, has been the extirpation of the clove and nutmeg
trees, so as to confine the monopoly to the islands on which they have
established governments.

The mountains are from six to eight thousand feet in height, sending
down innumerable streams to the sea. The vegetation is luxuriant; the
trees gigantic.

I have now in my possession a circular slab of wood from the island,
three and a half inches thick, eight and a half feet in diameter.

The sago palm in particular is more abundant and productive than on any
of the adjoining islands. Cloves and nutmegs grow wild.

The Malays are cunning and enterprising traffickers, and carry on a
great trade with the Chinese in Bêche-de-Mer. They hoist the Dutch
flag, and while one end of the island claims the protection of Banda,
the other has that of Amboyna.

Our conchologists added considerably to their collection here.

We did not remain long at Ceram, and sailed December 18.

[Sidenote: Dec. 18.]

There is always more excitement in navigating imperfectly-known seas
than in passing over the more frequented tracks; and on the present
occasion our charts were of little use.

By anchoring in the evenings, and by keeping a good look-out from
aloft, and leads constantly over the side, we were enabled to thread
our way through strange places. Occasionally canoes came off, as the
tide swept us along.

The jungle was too dense for us to make out habitations, but their
locality was indicated by the appearance of the cocoanut. I obtained
two fine specimens of the black Bird of Paradise in exchange for an old
musket.

The rest of their cargoes were composed of fruits, bows and arrows,
parrots, shells, spears and tortoise-shell.

The natives are well-proportioned, but ugly-looking savages, with a
profusion of hair, frizzed out in an extraordinary manner, which I have
no doubt they thought handsome, but which impressed us with the idea of
a harbour for filth and vermin.

As there is no anchorage, it is desirable that a ship should get
through Pitt’s Straits in one tide, which feat we just succeeded in
accomplishing by sunset.

On emerging from the Straits we found the wind still blowing fresh from
the westward with a following swell, and a strong easterly set; and
as our course now lay in that direction, before the following morning
we were many miles on our voyage, and thereby missed seeing a large
portion of the northern coast of New Guinea, a country about which
there appears to be more interesting mystery than any we had visited.

[Sidenote: New Guinea.]

The interior of this beautiful island, 900 miles in length, is little
known, and it is supposed not only to abound in minerals, but to
possess fertility of soil. No country is richer in beautiful rare birds
and beasts.

The little we saw of the natives confirmed what we had heard: that they
are a finer race than any of the islanders. On the southern side,
which is protected by a coral reef, the people appear to live as much
on the water as in their jungle.

[Sidenote: Dec. 30.]

Observed a succession of islands; and steered for one that appeared the
easternmost of the Admiralty group.

On nearing the land just after midnight, and obtaining no soundings
with the deep-sea lead, we sent boats ahead to sound.

This being observed by the natives, whom we supposed to be fishing,
they started yelling.

Wind having died away, the tide carried us into about fifty fathoms’
depth of water, where we held on with the kedge-anchor until daylight.

If our boats had created a sensation among the savages, great indeed
was their surprise at the appearance of the ship.

The noise produced by blowing into a shell of the Triton species
was everywhere heard; and having, I doubt not, buried or otherwise
concealed a vast quantity of rubbish, they disappeared themselves; so
that shortly after daylight there was not the vestige of a habitation
nor a human being to be seen.

It was curious to watch, when they found we took no steps to draw
them out, how carefully and cautiously the savages came from their
hiding-places.

One emerged from the bush, naked as he was born; we thought at first
that this was his way of proving to us how little we might expect to
get from him, but they were all in the same undress.

Then another would come forth, spear in hand; soon after, the snout of
a small canoe was seen to protrude from under the bush.

It would be tedious to enumerate the cunning and cautious “dodges,”
the number of times they retreated and again hid themselves, on
the slightest movement on our parts, before any of them ventured to
approach; before ten o’clock, however, the water, for a cable’s length
round the ship, was covered with grotesque canoes, and still more
odd-looking people.

A general barter soon commenced, accompanied by a noise and screeching
that was deafening; and reciprocal confidence was soon established.

These natives are fine-looking men of a dark olive colour, with long
black hair, which they confine in a lump at the back of their head by a
small hoop or band.

There was one old lady with gray hair, seated under a canopy in her
canoe, who was paddled round the ship several times, and appeared much
interested in what was going on; but she did not venture very near.
Several dialects were attempted between us, but none succeeded.

Their canoes were of various sizes; a few must have measured seventy or
eighty feet in length, carrying about twenty men each.




CHAPTER XLIV

_EN ROUTE_ TO SYDNEY


[Sidenote: 1850. Jan. 4.]

On the morning of January 4 we passed to the northward of Sandwich
Island, and found it thirty-five miles E.S.E. of the position it has on
the chart.

We were visited along the coast by a succession of canoes. Natives very
similar to those of the Fiji Islands.

We were puzzled at one time to make out the use of a curiously-formed
piece of wood, about four feet long, shaped like a whale-boat, but
solid.

From a hole in the centre descended a strong cord of twisted _rôtan_,
forming a running noose, like a hangman’s knot. As I was leaning out
of the cabin window, when there was just sufficient wind to give the
ship steerageway, I observed a shark swimming leisurely along, some ten
fathoms below the surface.

The natives, from their canoes, observing the monster dropped several
of these oddly-shaped buoys into the water.

Some of our men fancy they saw them sprinkle a powder in a sort of
magic circle round the buoys, but certain it is that a shark rose,
and was fool enough to shove his head into the noose, when he was
as completely hanged in his own element as ever rogue was from the
gallows. The buoyancy of the float prevented his diving with it.

Having flourished his tail for a few minutes he was drawn up by his
head on a level with the water and belaboured with the heavy ends of
their paddles, then tumbled bodily into the canoe and hurried on shore
amidst the yelling of the flotilla.

[Sidenote: Jan. 8.]

Stood over to the New Ireland coast, and then to the southward, between
that and New Britain.

We now looked out for a harbour near the southern end of New
Ireland--discovered by and named after a Captain Carteret, where fresh
water was to be obtained.

It is a place occasionally visited by English and American whalers, as
was proved by a salutation which reached our ears while we were nearing
the shore.

“What ship that?”--then an oath. “Rum got?” “Give rope.” While
delivering himself of these lessons in English and American, without
waiting for an invitation the native sprang into the main-chains and
thence on to the quarter-deck.

The manners of these savages were not at all improved by their
intercourse with civilised nations.

[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]

Made the Australian coast, and on the 7th arrived at Port Jackson,
Sydney.




CHAPTER XLV

SYDNEY TO HOBART TOWN


[Sidenote: 1850. Sydney, Feb. 7.]

We ran up the beautiful harbour of Port Jackson with the first of the
sea-breeze and came to in Farm Cove, close to the hill on which stands
Government House.

I can well understand how it was that Captain Cook in the first
instance overlooked the entrance and stood on to the exposed shallow
harbour of Botany Bay: now crowded with sharks, affording sport for gun
or spear.

There is a fine dock forming on Cockatoo Island, the advantage of which
will be incalculable.

We found the _Rattlesnake_, Captain Owen Stanley.

Here I was in the midst of friends--Sir Charles Fitzroy, the Governor,
with Lady Mary--his daughter, “little Mary,” now grown into the tall
and handsome Hon. Mrs. Keith Stewart, mother of a charming family;
also Captain Augustus Fitzroy, A.D.C., and George, Private Secretary;
another brother, Arthur, was at sea.

To the long and kind nursing of this family I owe my life, but from the
way I was received it would appear that the debt of gratitude was due
from them!

[Illustration: Mæander _at Sydney._]

Of that family there are none alive; the father and sons died in
distant parts of the world, far from one another, as will hereafter
appear. I was near each one of them at the end.

While at luncheon some one remarked on the extraordinary noise caused
by the ringing of a bell, near, or on board the _Mæander_.

I exclaimed, I hoped not, as that meant fire.

Looking from the window we saw dense masses of smoke issuing from the
position of the after magazine. A youngster was running to inform me.

The _Rattlesnake_ had slipped her cables to be out of the way.

On board I found a scuttle cut through the gun-room deck into the
bread-room to pour water, just big enough for me. I was nearly
suffocated.

We really had a narrow escape. The fire was subdued. The powder had
been smartly removed, but the wood framing had, as in the case of the
_Magicienne_, been burnt down to the copper-lining.

[Sidenote: March.]

During our refit we discovered the head of our mizen-mast to be rotten,
and as there was a spar of same dimension in the _Anson_, convict ship
at Hobart Town, which was originally made for the _Southampton_, I sent
my trusty “First” to apply to the Governor of Van Dieman’s Land for
permission to appropriate it.

Sir Charles Fitzroy, who was going to make a short tour into the
interior, not only kindly took me with him, but mounted me from his
first-rate stable.

As His Excellency rode some six stone more than I could boast of, I
never knew what it was to ride a tired horse.

While we rode, a light van conveyed our commissariat and luggage:
certainly the most agreeable mode of seeing any country.

While we were absent on this tour, a little more than a fortnight after
our first arrival, the Naval Service sustained a sad loss by the sudden
death of Captain Owen Stanley; it was necessary to despatch a messenger
for my recall, as his papers could not be opened nor his body buried in
the absence of the senior officer.

We had for many years been acquainted, and I cannot help expressing
here deep regret and sympathy with the many to whom he was so justly
dear.

Previous to the death of my friend Owen Stanley, I had made the
acquaintance of the distinguished artist who had been cruising with
him, Mr. Oswald Brierly, who had arrived in Australia in 1842, in the
yacht _Wanderer_, the property of Mr. Benjamin Boyd, a man of means,
and of an adventurous turn.

[Illustration: _Brierly._]

Brierly was already a student of naval architecture, with a love of the
sea--in fact he began by studying for the service itself.

Mr. Boyd’s schemes were many, one of them a whaling establishment at
Twofold Bay, which he placed under Brierly’s control. Boyd then betook
himself to the Eastern Archipelago, to collect pearls and pearl-shells,
diamonds, etc., and while exhibiting these on board his yacht to a
respectable-looking pirate his head fell between his legs, and the
yacht disappeared from the scene.

Brierly had made friends in Sydney and might have done well, but his
heart was on the sea, and he could not resist the offer of a cabin in
the _Rattlesnake_.

On Owen Stanley’s death he accepted a similar offer from me, until I
could land him in England.

[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]

Sailed from Port Jackson on March 20.

It being the time of the recess, a very agreeable party were enabled to
accompany us to Tasmania.

Among my guests were Captain Fitzroy, A.D.C., with his brother George,
Private Secretary, master of a scratch pack of hounds, also Mr. Deas
Thompson, whom my friend Colonel Mundy describes as the “Prince of
Colonial Secretaries,” and, judging from the directions I received from
the Governor as to the care and attention to be shown him, he was not
less appreciated at headquarters.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Pleased as we were with the appearance of everything about Sydney, we
were still more so with that of Hobart Town, where we arrived March 25.

[Illustration: Mæander _at Hobart Town_.]

As we entered the harbour it was difficult to imagine ourselves in the
Antipodes. English fruits and vegetables exposed for sale. Grapes,
peaches, and nectarines, in the open air, were breaking the trees down.

As soon as we anchored Bowyear came on board to report. Owing to deaths
and invalids we had many vacancies.

“What chance of men?” I asked. Pointing to a ship lying near, he said,
“The whole crew have volunteered.”

It was a female convict ship.

The doctor who had come out in her told me the most moral were the
Irish, the Scotch the least so.

In the streets the public carriages, as well as horses, reminded one
of the good old coaching days; indeed the road from Hobart Town to
Launceston is little inferior to that from London to Birmingham.

[Sidenote: Tasmania, March.]

The country we passed through, the quickset hedges, turnpikes,
farmhouses, stacks of corn and hay; the roadside inns, at which the
coach changed horses or stopped a few minutes to dine; the good roast
leg of mutton, potatoes _and_ onions, hot and ready; the “coming”
waiter, with bad brandy and worse cigars, all reminded us of home. The
arrival of the _Mæander_ was scarcely known in the country.

It was the hunting season. The Governor, Sir William Denison, who was
a lover of the sport, kindly mounted me, he himself an invalid and
confined to his bed. My first meet was at Oatlands.

I was carefully got up in leathers and boots, my pink rather stained
below the pockets.

Quickset hedges had not reached far into the interior; their
substitutes were the upper branches of large trees, with bark off,
supposed to be impossible for cattle, but not for kangaroo.

When I arrived, the hounds had gone; horns were blowing. On nearing the
hunters, my inexperienced eye saw an opening which I considered big
enough.

The tip of a stiff snag caught the Governor’s mare on the shoulder; we
came a stunning fall into the next field, where we lay for, I suppose,
a minute. I was first up, patted, and spoke kindly to the mare; she
then got up. I told her, seeing nothing else, we must go back the same
way we came. She understood. We walked a few yards back for room,
and then turned. She landed safely among the hunting men. Never was
a more sincere and hearty cheer raised. Striking the pipeclay out of
his leathers with his fist, the master, whose name was Long, roared
out, “By Jove! That fellow ought to be King of England.” I soon made
acquaintance with as nice a set as I ever met.

Rode quietly to the Governor’s stables, mounted my hack, and from
my room wrote the kind Governor the sad news that I had lamed his
favourite mare!

Besides hounds, there were in the neighbourhood a first-rate pack of
beagles.

Just before we sailed from Hobart Town, I received a letter which I
much prized--from Mr. William Allison, one of the young men with whom I
had crossed the country.

His father was a squatter, who had been an officer in the Navy, and had
served his country throughout the eventful period of the late war--one
of the finest specimens I ever saw of an old mariner.

His son had the management of 40,000 acres, with a flock of 20,000
sheep, and was deeply interested in the welfare of the colony.

Speaking of sport, in which he knew I should be interested, he says:
“We had the most glorious run on Saturday I ever saw, or perhaps shall
ever see, with my brother’s beagles. After a run of 12 miles, the
kangaroo, a forester, jumped dead, 10 yards in front of the hounds. We
had no check, and during the last 4 miles we frequently viewed him.
There were only Nat, myself, a younger brother, and a Mr. Difrose in
at the death. Had you been with us, as we have often wished, you would
have been there too. Mrs. Lord sent you the kangaroo, which we hope
reached safely.”

The Hobart Town races came off during our stay, and afforded good
sport. There was a Governor’s cup to be run for.

[Sidenote: Apr. 18.]

The 99th Regiment, whose acquaintance I made in Mauritius days,--the
“Neuf Neufs,” as the French called them,--and ourselves amused the
inhabitants of Hobart Town by a sham fight.

The soldiers were to occupy some Government ground called “The
Paddocks,” and oppose an invasion.

As soon as the 99th had taken up their position in a wood to the
rear, the invading force effected a landing, and were driving in the
enemy’s pickets, when they were suddenly outnumbered, and obliged to
retire on their boats, making a gallant stand at the end to cover the
re-embarkation of their artillery.

Much ammunition was expended, and we were told so large a concourse of
people had never before been seen in Hobart Town.

[Illustration: _The Sham Fight._]

[Sidenote: Apr. 20.]

Before taking our departure, I had the gratification of receiving Sir
William Denison on board. Saluted him, and made sail down the river as
far as the “Iron Pot,” Derwent River, and then worked back again. Hove
to off the anchorage, and landed His Excellency; and having collected
our Sydney contingent, sailed for that port.




[Illustration: Mæander _between Sydney Heads_.]

CHAPTER XLVI

SYDNEY


[Sidenote: 1850. April 26.]

Made at noon the south head of Botany Bay.

3 P.M.--Between the heads entering Port Jackson. While running up,
exchanged numbers with the _Havannah_, 20, Captain J. E. Erskine, and
the _Rattlesnake_.

Came to in Farm Cove; making a running moor. I now heard of the death
of my dear father.

My old friend Erskine was in charge of the Australian station, and
naturally felt jealous of the intrusion of a captain who was his senior.

It was far from me to interfere, but the death of poor Owen Stanley
obliged me to open the directions of the Hydrographical Office before
he could be buried. In fact, I was recalled from a tour I was enjoying
with Sir Charles Fitzroy.

The Hydrographical instructions were simple enough, stating, in
case of the death of the captain, or any other, the officer who was
to succeed. Acting upon them, I gave Lieutenant Yule orders to take
command of the _Rattlesnake_. This offended Erskine; who informed me
that, on my departure for the Pacific, he would supersede my acting
order.

[Sidenote: May 2.]

The _Rattlesnake’s_ time was up, so I gave her the order to return to
England, and remained in harbour long enough to give her twenty-four
hours’ start. She sailed May 2.

[Illustration: _The_ Rattlesnake]

[Sidenote: May 3.]

We left Port Jackson in continuation of our route for Port Nicholson
and Auckland; but, the wind heading, we stood for Norfolk Island, which
we made on the evening of May 7; and hove to.

[Sidenote: May 8.]

Next morning some of the officers started in a whale-boat that had
been sent by the Governor. There being an awkward sea running, they
capsized off the end of the rickety pier. Owing to precautions taken
and the activity of convicts, no lives lost. Unaware of this accident,
I followed with young Leicester in the gig, and, waiting for an
auspicious moment, we landed safely.

From outside, Norfolk Island has the appearance of a lonely rock, but
is very different on shore.

Mr. Price, the Governor, kindly took us a charming ride to Mount Pitt,
and showed us the military barracks, which are capable of holding a
regiment.

The convict houses are three storeys high, fitted for all sorts and
conditions of men; some it was necessary to confine in huge iron cages.
Their language, addressed to us strangers, was uncommon strong! There
were 115 of these ruffians separately confined. I saw three chapels,
Protestant and Catholic. Every trade was encouraged: shoes, boots,
coats, and trousers that would have caused envy in the bosoms of Hoby
and Stultz. I was glad when the Governor took us to higher land and
change of scene.

We were soon passing through orange and lemon groves and wooded scenery.

The fir peculiar to the island was conspicuous. The india-rubber tree
was in full force. Some of the officers from the ship had joined us.
The youngsters soon found out that, by striking the drooping plant with
a stick, the juice ran out like cream, which no marine servant could
extract from a uniform cloth jacket. To spoil this fun the Governor
thought it advisable, unless we liked to remain the night, that we
should be getting down to the boats. The same whaler took them off. I
preferred the gig in which we had landed.

Every precaution was taken by the Governor and his officers in case of
a capsize. In addition to convicts in cork-jackets, there were others
with large round corks netted over with long cords attached, that could
be thrown a great distance.

In the gig, in addition to young Leicester Keppel, I had some
fir-plants of the island, and other odds and ends. Our boat bow was
scarcely abreast of the pier head, when a roller lifted the bow into
the air and turned over on us.

The only precaution I had taken was to get rid of my uniform jacket. I
believe a capsize is always great fun for the convicts. On my asking to
whom I was indebted for my life, a convict informed me that his name
was Emerson, and that he had been in the service of my father.

[Illustration: _Rescue by Convicts. Norfolk Island._]

I found later that Emerson had been employed at Newmarket, and having
“done his horses down,” was taking a stroll in the evening when he
came across an old gentleman who did not seem to know his way, and
“borrowed his watch.” I had three sovereigns in my pocket, and offered
them to him, but he said they were no more use to him than the same
number of buttons! I mentioned his case to the Governor, who would see
to it.

Norfolk Island was, in 1787, colonized by Captain Philip King, R.N., by
free settlers and prisoners from New South Wales. In 1809 a combined,
but unsuccessful attempt was made by the settlers, the military, and
the prisoners, to take possession of the island.

Our second attempt to reach the ship was successful. At sunset filled,
and made sail.

[Sidenote: May 11.]

If my readers are sick of the sea, or sea-sick, I advise them to skip
the journal until the 19th of June.

Since leaving Norfolk Island, the wind, with a strong lee set,
prevented our reaching Auckland by the northern route.

[Sidenote: May 19.]

We entered Cook’s Straits, and in the evening came to off Port
Nicholson.

[Sidenote: May 20.]

10 A.M.--Weighed and attempted to work up under double-reefed topsails,
with topgallant sails over, but were obliged to come to again with
both bower-anchors between Barrett reef and the eastern shore in the
afternoon.

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Wind lulled, weighed, ran up, and came to in Lampton Harbour. Found our
fore-yard sprung.

[Sidenote: May 24.]

At noon fired a royal salute in commemoration of Her Majesty’s Birthday.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

Weighed and made sail, running down the harbour. Before, however, we
could get clear of Pencarrow Head, we were met by a strong southerly
breeze; reefed topsails, and worked out by sunset.

The breeze outside freshened to a gale, against which we worked all
night!

[Sidenote: New Zealand, May 26.]

At daylight found ourselves off Cape Porirua; bore up. At 10.30 A.M.
came to with both bower-anchors in 23 fathoms, off Kapiti Island. The
anchorage none of the best, but any port in such a storm as that we had
just taken shelter from.

[Sidenote: May 28.]

Weighed at 5 A.M. to a light N.E. wind, and ran along the land.

[Sidenote: June 2.]

Came to in 7 fathoms in Waitemata Harbour.

Port Nicholson and Auckland are both splendid harbours.

Much to be done, which British capital and enterprise will achieve. At
present there is neither watering nor landing-place. As a proof of the
latter, the port captain at Auckland visited the ship in a pair of long
jack boots--his usual costume! These colonies are rapidly rising into
importance.

[Sidenote: June 8.]

Weighed and stood out of the harbour.

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Worked into the Bay of Islands. Came to in Kororareka Bay. Did not find
the facility we hoped for in obtaining spars.

The town contains but few inhabitants, and was reduced to half its
former size, by shot-holes in the church and other buildings, made
during the war with the brave Heki. The bay, however, deserves all the
praise that has been bestowed upon it.

[Sidenote: June 10.]

Weighed at 8 P.M., made sail, and ran out of the bay.

[Sidenote: June 13.]

Breeze freshened into a northerly gale, which, veering round to N.E.,
blew hard and reduced us to a close-reefed main topsail.

[Sidenote: June 14.]

First cutter washed away. More moderate towards afternoon.

[Sidenote: June 19.]

Made the land at daylight; not an inviting coast for a stranger.

Fired a signal gun and got a native pilot.

[Illustration: _A Coral Island._]

Noon.--Came to in 13 fathoms off the capital of Tonga Tabu, Malanga.
The coast is bound by a coral reef about 200 yards in width, inside
which boats will float at low water, when landing is disagreeable.

[Illustration: _A Stockade._]

The island is well managed by an English missionary, who had King
George well under control.

In the afternoon His Majesty came on board, and was received and
entertained with due honours.

He is a Christian and intelligent, but rather too prejudiced against
the French for his own interests. The King once got into a scrape.
Drifting about in his canoe on a Sunday, he observed a huge turtle
floating in the warmth of the sun.

His Majesty could not resist the temptation, but quitting his canoe,
swam carefully up and grasped the hind-fins of the turtle; which,
with so much stern weight, could not dive, but was able to make rapid
headway with his fore-fins, and towed His Majesty a good mile before he
let go. The King got severely reprimanded for his desecration of the
Sabbath.

I visited the two schools, crowded with promising children of both
sexes. Tonga Tabu is a fertile island with an industrious population.

[Sidenote: June 22.]

Weighed. It was curious navigation between the coral reefs. Suddenly,
while weighing, a flaw of wind veered and caused our stern to touch the
edge of a coral bank, with 80 fathoms under our chains. She was easily
backed off.

[Sidenote: June 25.]

We started with a fair wind, which turned into a gale.

[Illustration: Mæander _in a Gale_.]

We had not many pets, but the purser had a gray parrot, the right
African sort, who would not talk or be taught, and was voted a
nuisance.

[Sidenote: June 26.]

During one of our frequent squalls, in a lee lurch, everything was
capsized and sent to the scuppers, some of us sent off our legs,
decanters, tumblers, lamps, the parrot’s cage, etc. In the midst of
broken crockery and glass, a voice was calling out “Abaft there!” “A
glass of grog!” It was this much-abused parrot!

Ship under close-reefed topsails, main trysail, and fore-staysail.
Weather soon moderated.

[Sidenote: June 29.]

We were now drawing towards Tahiti, carrying a mail from Sydney.

[Illustration: _Point Venus, Tahiti._]

[Sidenote: July 8.]

Late in the afternoon a sail was reported, which we made out, from the
round sort of baskets at the fore- and main-topmast-heads, to be a
whaler; she had boats in the water. We hove to. She hoisted American
colours: her captain came on board--a respectable-looking old salt,
with gray hair.

Invited him to my cabin, where, with accompaniments of Manila cheroots
and Jamaica rum, we had an agreeable chat.

On his leaving, I presented him with a box of cheroots, saying we had
been six months without European news.

On which he “guessed” that I must be aware of the war between France
and England.

He evidently noticed my astonishment, and added that the French Admiral
was at sea looking for the English fleet.

We shook hands and so parted. It was then too dark to see the name of
his ship. We made sail.

I invited the First Lieutenant to consult on the news we had received.
It was decided that we would load every gun with round shot, grape, and
canister.

[Illustration: _Tahiti Harbour._]

[Sidenote: July 9.]

Soon after daylight we were off the harbour, and at about seven the
English pilot we had heard of, but accompanied by a French officer,
undertook the steerage.

I was so interested at the navigation between coral banks, the beauty
of the harbour, the merchant ships, two fine frigates, with sundry
small craft, that I quite forgot about the guns.

[Illustration: _Bowyear._]

Had my gig manned, and directed Bowyear first to salute the Admiral’s
flag, and when he saw me leaving to salute the Governor and French flag.

He replied: “You forget, sir, that we have round shot, grape, and
canister in every gun. I have nothing but this scoop to draw them, nor
can we get outside against the sea-breeze to empty them. I could not
fire a pistol here without hitting some one.”

I had, however, to call on the Governor. On getting alongside the
flagship, an officer informed me that I should find him at the
Government House,

On landing I was received by His Excellency in full dress, a guard of
honour with band playing our National Air, and all officers attending.
I never felt so guilty or so small.

The Governor, M. Bonard, Capitaine de Vaisseau and Commodore, who
included in his person that of Governor and Naval Commander-in-Chief,
kindly put his arm in mine and led me away into his house, where he
said luncheon would be getting cold.

[Illustration: _Eimeo._]

They all spoke or understood English as well as myself. The luncheon
was excellent, wine to match, and I was hungry.

After a while the Governor drew his chair near to mine, and, without
alluding to my not having fired the usual salutes, stated that they
were six months without news from Europe; and that if ever so small a
yacht or strange fishing-vessel hove in sight, it caused excitement.
Telescopes were brought to bear, and he said, “You may imagine the
appearance of a British frigate----”

[Illustration: _Inland Scenery._]

Before I could commence my explanation he added, “Every five minutes
I am receiving reports of the withdrawal of round shot, grape, and
canister from every gun in your frigate.”

I then explained my interview with the master of the American whaler.

Every one of the gallant French captains rose without a moment’s
hesitation, shook me by the hand, expressing a hope that under similar
circumstances their officers would have done the same!

In due time the salutes were fired and returned, and we mixed as one
family. I have ever found French naval officers perfect gentlemen.

Monsieur Gizholme, Lieutenant commanding the _Cocyte_ steamer, managed
everything: balls, dinners, dances, picnics in a lovely and interesting
country. Brierly meanwhile happy with his sketch-book.

[Sidenote: Tahiti.]

Among guests I had the honour of entertaining Queen Pomare. She had
been, and appeared very happy, and was treated with every kindness and
attention.

Monsieur D. P. Nicolai, commanding the troops, added considerably to my
collection of shells.

I had the pleasure of renewing acquaintance in the Baltic with
Commodore Bonard, with Gizholme, and other officers.

[Sidenote: July 18.]

Having come from the west, owing to our difference in longitude, found
I had a day to spare, which was a good excuse for lingering in Tahiti,
therefore we gave ourselves a second “Thursday, July 18.”

[Sidenote: July 21.]

Pilot on board, weighed. Having saluted the French flag and that of
Commodore Bonard, stood over for the island of Guimo. Came to in 19
fathoms in Opuum Harbour, where we have a depot of coals wasting for
want of covering. This is likewise a beautiful and well-sheltered
harbour with good fresh water easily obtained.

[Sidenote: July 23.]

Weighed at daylight; ran out of harbour. Worked over to Papeete to land
our pilot and pick up their mail. 10 P.M.--Boat returned filled, and
made sail to the northward of the island.

[Sidenote: Valparaiso, Aug. 23.]

After a month’s light and variable winds, saluted the flag of
Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, flying on board _Inconstant_, 36, Captain
John Shepherd.

We were towed into the anchorage by the boats of French and English
men-of-war.

There were besides _Driver_, steam sloop, 6, Commander C. Johnson;
_Champion_, 14, Commander John Hayes.

[Illustration: _A Coral Atoll._]

On my reporting myself to the Commander-in-Chief, he informed me he had
two reprimands from the Admiralty--one for the affair at Macao, and the
other for interfering with the senior officer on the Australian Station.

I applied, in proper form, through my Admiral, to the Board of
Admiralty for two courts-martial.

The Admiral informed me that the _Inconstant_ had a freight on board
and was homeward bound, but that I being senior, and _Mæander_ longer
in commission, might take freight out of _Inconstant_ and so go home,
or remain on the station for another year and take the chance of
picking up a freight myself.

It took me but a few minutes to decide, knowing, too, that such
arrangement would exactly suit Captain Shepherd, officers, and men of
both ships as well as friend Brierly.

The Admiral’s was a charming establishment. Besides Mrs. Phipps Hornby,
and her sister Mrs. Parker, there were three daughters. Their son,
Geoffrey, was Flag-Lieutenant.

They were in the house lately vacated by the Admiral’s predecessor, Sir
George Seymour, where they were sure to find good stabling if nothing
else.

[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]

This morning our Chargé d’Affaires, Mr. William Pitt Adams, arrived
from Lima, bringing me a letter of thanks from Lord Palmerston for the
prompt way in which I had acted at Macao.

[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]

Joined royal salute in commemoration of the Prince Consort’s birth.

[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]

At sunset hoisted Admiral’s flag, _Inconstant_ having sailed for
England.

[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]

Matthew Ash, captain of mizen-top, while on leave was murdered by one
of the crew of a Chilian frigate, who was subsequently apprehended.

Ship caulking inside and out, not before it was needed.

Watered ship from the luxury of a tank.

[Sidenote: Sept. 13.]

_Asia_, 84, Captain Robert F. Stopford, arrived, to whom was
transferred the Admiral’s flag.

[Sidenote: Sept. 18.]

Fired royal salute in commemoration of Chilian Independence.

[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]

Kindly invited to join Admiral’s party to witness a rancho: which means
to drive wild cattle over a space of eighty to a hundred square miles
into a strong enclosure.

Our preparations were amusing, especially to our pretty lady
companions, who looked as if they had never been out of the saddle.

[Illustration: Mæander _at Valparaiso_.]

We started after luncheon for our 10-mile ride to Pitama.

The accommodation afforded by our ranchero host was a long low
building, having a floor, but no ceiling, mere wooden truckle-beds to
sleep on.

The Admiral and family took possession of one end, we, the other:
within hail, but outside talking distance.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

We were up early, but the wild cattle were already in a disturbed
state: bulls and pigs, horses and cows rushing across each other. The
rancheros or drivers had been out a week. The ground was rough and
varied, but nothing stopped our fair riders.

It was dusk before half the cattle within the outer ranchero could be
secured. Torches added to the wildness of the scene.

The unbroken horses that had been captured by the young rancheros, and
ridden when their own knocked up, began to lie down.

The ladies of our party, who had ridden the whole day, appeared as
fresh as their brother; but the Admiral, who was as hard as nails,
himself made the signal to return home.

I always regarded him with admiration and respect. He had commanded the
_Volage_ in our Norfolk hero’s, Sir William Hoste’s, frigate action off
Lissa.

[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]

Weighed from Valparaiso Roads on our northern cruise.

Later I saw _Driver_ standing out. She was a full-rigged ship and what
our American friends called a “side wheeler.” Her captain was under the
delusion he could beat us sailing, but our three topsails only were
sufficient to convince him of his mistake.

[Sidenote: Coquimbo, Sept. 27.]

Came to in Coquimbo Bay.

[Illustration: _Coquimbo._]

While cruising in my gig I observed an ancient-looking church, and
landed to inspect it.

Like other Catholic churches it had the usual images; but I noticed
over a side door a white marble slab, on which was engraved: “En el
año 1578 esta iglesia ha sido profanado par el pirata ingles Francisco
Draki.”

Sailed 28th.

[Sidenote: Callao, Oct. 5.]

Arrived in Callao Roads. Found United States _Vandalia_, also _Naiad_
with stores and topgallant-yards across.

Saluted Peruvian flag with twenty-one guns.

Much to the distress of Commander William Browne I had directions to
convert the once beautiful frigate _Naiad_ into a store-ship.

[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]

Weighed and made sail. Observed French Commodore Fourichon standing for
Callao.

A fresh south-easter carried us across the Equator in 113° west, after
which we had a long and tedious voyage.

[Sidenote: San Blaas, Nov. 12.]

At daylight made Piedra Blanca de Tierre: a remarkable white rock, some
twelve miles from the coast, appearing in the distance like a large
ship. At noon came to in San Blaas Roads. Purchased cedar planks for
making treasure boxes.

[Sidenote: Nov. 17.]

Came to in Mazatlan Harbour. Saluted the Mexican flag with twenty-one
guns.

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Saluted Mr. Charles Bankhead, English Minister, on his visiting the
ship.

[Sidenote: Mazatlan.]

An English brig, the _Gazelle_, arrived at Mazatlan with a number of
passengers from San Francisco, several of whom died on the passage from
dysentery and other diseases contracted before embarking. The brig
touched at Cape St. Lucas, where many of them landed and refused to
return on board. The _Gazelle_ sailed; they came round in a boat a
few days afterwards.

At the instigation of well-known characters calling themselves
“lawyers,” and forming part of the Civil Courts of Justice, the
passengers lodged a complaint against the Master of the _Gazelle_ for
ill-treatment, and his having thereby been the cause of deaths on board.

At the request of the Captain of the Port I detained the _Gazelle_ and
communicated with our Consul, who, on investigation, decided there were
no grounds for complaint; but, on the contrary, they had received such
treatment as I should have expected, knowing the high character of Mr.
Wood, the master, whom I had met in India.

At a later date I received information to the effect that these
“gentlemen lawyers,” Gaxiola and Cainow, had made an offer to the
supercargo of the _Gazelle_, whom they met on shore, that they would
cancel the proceedings against his ship for six hundred dollars.

I also heard that a like sum had been offered by them to the Captain
of the _Gulnare_, an American brig under almost similar circumstances,
but the Master not having the money, the brig now lies rotting in the
harbour. I allowed the _Gazelle_ to proceed to sea, offering myself to
answer any charges preferred against the Captain.

[Sidenote: Nov. 26, Mazatlan.]

The Governor of Mazatlan visited the ship and was saluted.

[Sidenote: Nov. 27.]

Foreign Consuls and party were entertained on board. Saluted them on
leaving.

[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]

Sent launch in charge of Lieutenant Oldfield to communicate with
merchants at Guyamas. The pinnace in charge of C. H. Johnstone, mid,
left for San Blaas. At Mazatlan we moored head and stern on account of
tides, with no room to swing. Ciervo Island, close by, is a convenient
place, on which we repaired our boats and landed the blacksmith’s
forge, the men working under the eye of the officers on board. The
centre of the island was tall bush, so that the opposite side could not
be seen except from the masthead.

[Illustration: _Sharks at Mazatlan._]

[Sidenote: Dec. 22.]

Departed this life George Fuller, A.B. He had been long lingering, and
had an extraordinary twist in his backbone. He was buried at the back
of the island with due honours. I was kindly entertained and had a room
on shore, but by day was much away in the gig.

[Sidenote: Dec. 24.]

In the morning the First Lieutenant found the boatswain missing, and,
later, the doctor. He began to smell a rat, but thought it advisable to
say nothing. The dingey too was missing. On my coming on board Bowyear
told me the surgeon, John Crawford, on hearing from his assistant of
the death and burial of the poor fellow, whose backbone he coveted,
was so excited that Bowyear stated that the ship’s company would not
like to have the body disturbed; but the doctor was pertinacious,
promising that he could manage it without anybody knowing. At midnight
he and the boatswain landed in the dingey and hauled the small boat up
on the beach.

[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]

When I got on board, at muster, nothing had been seen of either the
dingey or the boatswain.

At noon an American schooner, sailing near us with a cargo of sheep,
hailed. Stating he “guessed” he had picked up one of our boats at
sea, and casting off the painter, we received our dingey. Doctor and
boatswain hid till midnight and got on board unseen.

The lagoons which succeed one another for several miles in a line with
the coast to the northward were full of wild game. It is difficult to
imagine prettier shooting. The water is not above three or four feet
deep, and sufficiently wide to enable a gun on each side to drive
the game. Care should be taken to drop your birds on the land, as
alligators are in possession of the water.

One of the midshipmen and myself bagged fifty-two couple of ducks of
various sorts in an afternoon.

Snipe are also plentiful. To get at the river there is an extensive bar
to cross, which troubled our boats till they got used to it.




CHAPTER XLVII

_MÆANDER_


[Sidenote: 1851. Mazatlan, Jan. 1.]

Weighed and made sail, running to the southward to meet the pinnace,
expected from San Blaas with treasure.

[Sidenote: Jan. 2.]

Came to at the entrance to the Chamatla River. A nasty bar, impassable
at low water; heavy surf breaks along the coast. Two of our boats were
swamped in attempting to land. Saved them with loss of anchors only.
Good wild shooting is to be had by ascending the river in canoes. On
the banks, near the entrance, were hundreds of alligators. Deer in
plenty were seen on the opposite side of a narrow lagoon which runs
parallel with the beach.

[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]

Pinnace returned. Weighed following day. Came to in Mazatlan Harbour.

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

Having made arrangements for leaving pinnace and barge in charge of Mr.
May, master, took pilot on board. Weighed at 5 P.M.

[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]

Came to in Guyamas Harbour. A convenient port for target practice.
Distance from the shore from eight hundred to a thousand yards;
the shot easily recovered. The weather is generally fine. We were
enabled to send boats to distant points to assist the merchants; the
men enjoyed the change. Bowyear, the First, was equally contented
to remain, and, by drill and various exercises, keep the remaining
crew happy and contented. Among the youngsters, a universal favourite
was a son of Lord Ellesmere, now about sixteen years of age. In a
letter before leaving England his father wrote: “It is wrong to have a
favourite in a family, but you take with you the Benjamin of my flock.”

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

In the evening, returning on board, I noticed the sad looks of officers
as well as men. Bowyear informed me I should find young Egerton laid
in my cabin badly wounded. The poor boy breathed, but knew me not. I
remained until the end, which came only too soon.

[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]

Among our friends at Guyamas was the liberal Catholic Priest, who
appeared to rule supreme. He had a portion of the churchyard, half a
mile from the landing-place, selected for the grave of our poor young
shipmate, who was there buried with full military honours--a firing
party of marines, band playing that impressive Dead March in “Saul,”
which brought tears from many lookers-on. The remains were followed
by the merchants and authorities of the place. Ships in port lowered
colours.

[Illustration: _The Cemetery at Guyamas._]

I was before this too sad to clearly state cause of accident. I
mentioned that the First Lieutenant was well pleased with the position
of our anchorage, as the open spaces, as well as position of land
and rocks, afforded good opportunities for target practice, as well
as for musket drill in boats. On the present sad occasion a mark had
been whitewashed on the face of a huge rock; the boats passing dropped
alternate oars and took shots. We were short of officers: the boatswain
was in the stern-sheets, with the young mid in charge. In unnecessary
haste, the musket of one of the crew went off, with the sad result.

Guyamas is worse off than Mazatlan for water; all the drinking water
comes in skins and small casks on the backs of mules and donkeys from
wells dug a couple of miles out of the town in the Hermosilla Road.
A sufficient supply was so brought down to the end of the pier at a
charge of $150 per ton. The country abounds with large hares, difficult
to shoot, except on horseback, within eighty yards, so they are seldom
killed except with ball--a pretty amusement for good rifle shots. Deer
and wild-fowl are plentiful, but in different directions.

[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]

We landed our whole force with field-pieces for a sham fight. The
spot selected was adapted for the purpose, having a sufficient level,
besides low brushwood and elevated rocky ground for manœuvring. We had
erected stones to represent a circular fort on an eminence, in which
four brass boat guns were mounted, and a piratical flag hoisted to
represent the enemy.

The field battery having been placed in position, the force advanced
to the assault, but, being repulsed, they divided, and by circuitous
marches on each side gained some high ground in rear of, and commanding
the fort, when the field battery, a little in advance of its original
position, again opened fire. The fort was carried, the Mexican flag
hoisted; the band played their National Air, and the army, as well as
spectators, cheered, consisting of the whole population of Guyamas.

[Sidenote: Feb. 15]

Being spring tides, weighed and ran out into deeper water. Came to
in five fathoms off the islands of Paxaros. During our stay here we
received about $400,000, none of which paid Custom dues.

[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]

1 P.M.--The Governor of Guyamas having come on board, weighed.
Shortened sail on passing the cave on Vincente Point, where a number of
our Guyamas friends, particularly ladies, had assembled to wave last
adieus. Mutual regrets at parting. Saluted the Governor on his quitting
the ship. Cheered from the rigging and made sail.

[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]

Came to off San Blaas for water, which is obtained by rolling casks
about 400 yards from the beach to a river, in which the inhabitants of
San Blaas (both sexes) wash themselves and clothes. The water, however,
is better than that at Mazatlan or Guyamas.

[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]

_Champion_, 14, Commander John M. Hayes, arrived from Mazatlan.
Supplied her with stores and provisions.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

Weighed, standing for Piedra de Mer, off which we were to pick up our
boats.

[Sidenote: Mar. 2.]

At noon the pinnace and cutter came alongside with treasure. Sailed,
having on board $868,927; with the exception of the _Inconstant’s_, the
smallest shipment that had been made from this coast. More than three
months had elapsed since the boats and officers had all been on board
together. The long sea cruise before us comes in well to recover from
the naturally demoralising effects of the frequently prolonged absence
of boats from ship.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

Twenty minutes before midnight exercised at general quarters; fired the
first gun in two minutes and forty-five seconds from the beating of the
drum.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

After evening quarters exercised shifting topsails. Fresh northerly
breezes carried us across the equator, giving us fair prospects of a
good passage to Valparaiso.

[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]

Midnight.--Beat to quarters; first gun fired in three minutes and a
half.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

After evening quarters shifted topsail-yards.

[Sidenote: April 1.]

Commenced the new scale of provisions according to Admiralty circular,
a step towards improving the condition and discipline of the seamen.

[Sidenote: April 8.]

Observed a stranger we had seen two days previously was still gaining.
Tacked to try rate of sailing. Trimmed ship; re-set sails and
communicated by signal with her, the _Balmoral_ of Aberdeen, from San
Francisco, bound to Valparaiso. Passed to leeward, tacked in her wake
and left her in an extraordinary manner, proving how much might be
gained in a long voyage by trimming, and a little attention to the set
of sails. By sunset she was hull down.

[Sidenote: April 21.]

Noon.--Came to in Valparaiso Bay. Found here the United States
frigate _Raritan_, and Russian corvette _Oambylea_. Rear-Admiral
Fairfax-Morseby relieves Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, who had sailed on
a cruise.

[Sidenote: April 22.]

Sent boats to tow the Russian corvette to sea. Taking in water and
provisions preparatory to sailing for England.

[Sidenote: May 3.]

4 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Dark morning, lee shore. Vessels at
anchor; both sides in thirty-six fathoms, a long heave up and down. Got
the first of a northerly wind. Got up stump topgallant masts. Carried
our breeze as far as 43° south.

[Sidenote: May 8.]

Exchanged numbers with the _Amphitrite_, 24, Captain Charles Frederick
from England. Frederick strongly advised us not to attempt Straits of
Magellan. Uneasy motion of the ship made havoc among our live stock;
obliged to throw several bullocks overboard.

[Sidenote: May 10.]

After a calm got a light northerly wind. Shaped a course for Cape
Pillar, intending to run through the Straits. As the breeze freshened
the weather came on thick and dirty.

[Sidenote: Straits of Magellan, May 13.]

Running for the land; fresh breeze, hazy weather. 10.40 A.M.--Observed
rocks N.N.E. 11.10.--Another break in the mist showed us land ahead.
Reefed topsails. 1 P.M.--Passed Cape Pillar. 2.30.--Came to in Mercy
Harbour.

[Sidenote: May 14.]

2.15 P.M.--Entered Long Reach. Passed Half Port Bay. 4.50.--Came to in
seven and a half fathoms, Playa Parda Harbour.

[Sidenote: May 15.]

Weighed and made sail. 2 P.M.--Came to in Fortescue Bay. Found an
American brig, and an English barque _Caspar_ and brig _Isabella
Thompson_ dismasted in Port Gallant. A snug and beautiful harbour.
Supplied the brig with one jib-boom for a main-mast, and the barque
with our stream chain.

[Sidenote: May 16.]

4.20 A.M.--Weighed. 8.45.--Rounded Cape Froward. On passing San Nicolas
Bay observed a Chilian man-of-war brig, and American and Chilian ships
at anchor. Came to at 1 P.M. in Port Famine.

[Sidenote: Port Famine, May 17.]

4 A.M.--Weighed. 11.15.--Came to in seventeen fathoms off the
settlement to the southward of Sandy Point. Saluted the Chilian flag.
This penal settlement, under its present Governor, Meños, a captain
in the Chilian Navy, is situated between the prairie, on which cattle
thrive, and the wooded country, containing the necessary material for
building, is likely to become a large and useful colony. It has rich
soil, an agreeable, bracing climate, and a coal-mine within a few
miles, inland, from which a stream of good water runs into the sea
close to the settlement.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

Weighed, and worked to windward. Came to at 11.10 in Loreda Bay.

[Sidenote: 1851. May 19.]

Weighed to run between Elizabeth and Magdalene Islands; got through,
but before we could get into Royal Roads to anchor the flood-tide set
us back. 12.30.--Brought up in eight fathoms off N.E. end of Elizabeth
Island.

[Sidenote: May 20.]

Weighed, and worked up against N.E. wind to the entrance of the second
narrows. Wind heading, worked into Gregory Bay. Came to at 11.45.

[Illustration: _In the Straits of Magellan._]

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Landed parties to try for guanacoes and ostriches, stated in the chart
to abound here. A few birds were seen in the distance, as well as
animals.

[Sidenote: May 22.]

Weighed 5 A.M., and ran towards the entrance of the first narrows,
passing to the northward of the Triton Bank. Succeeded, with the
assistance of a strong tide, in getting through, making two tacks only
towards the eastermost end. 10.30.--Trimmed and set studding-sails.
3.40.--Rounded Dungeness Point.

4.30.--Taken aback. Came to in fourteen fathoms off Dungeness Point.

[Sidenote: May 23.]

7.15--Weighed and made sail on port tack. 9.--Cape Virgin, W by S. ½ S.
10.--Stowed anchors.

[Sidenote: May 24.]

Heavy swell from N.E.

[Sidenote: May 25.]

Light northerly winds; veered round to S.W. and blew. This was the
heaviest gale I ever experienced: wind constantly shifting, the sea had
no time to get up. Our close-reefed main topsail was blown to ribbons,
and a close-reefed foresail was blown out of the bolt ropes. That
part secured to the yard by reef points was blown into knots as big
as a Norfolk turnip, and so hard that neither chisel nor nails could
be driven into it. Of the fore staysail nothing remained. Our quarter
galleries and half-ports were stove in.

Quarter-deck boats had been well secured, but the one on the starboard
side had been so encrusted with fibres of the mizen trysail as to have
the appearance of whitewash, which was only removed by three-cornered
iron scrapers.

As already stated, the sea had no time to rise to any considerable
height. At daylight the gale moderated. We set a spare fore topsail,
reefed, as a foresail, bent and set main staysail.

[Sidenote: May 29.]

Breeze moderated and changed to the northward.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

More bad weather. Split the improvised foresail.

[Sidenote: May 31.]

[Sidenote: June 2.]

Wind more moderate. Bent proper foresail and made sail, wind veering
round to S.W.

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Shifted topgallant masts from stump to regulation. Standing for Cape
Frio, opened the entrance of Rio Janeiro. Observed a barque being towed
out by a Brazilian steam tug.

Being becalmed the _Plumper_ towed us into our anchorage. Met the
_Cormorant_, steam sloop, Captain Herbert Schomberg, coming out; he
having received information from the Consul that the tug _Satrap_ was
assisting a slaver.

The _Plumper_, having towed us to a berth, joined in the chase.
_Cormorant_ fired into the tug, and knocked away her funnel; on being
boarded fifteen slaves were found secreted under hatches, and part of a
slaver’s cargo.

The tug was anchored and placed under a guard. The barque got away, but
_Plumper_ put a shot into her. The Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral
Barrington Reynolds, was absent at Monte Video.

Found here _Tweed_, sloop, 18, Commander Lord Francis Russell. She had
been my first ship: then a 28-gun donkey frigate!

There was also a heavy-looking French frigate _Penelope_. Also two
handsome Spanish corvettes, _Esmeralda_ and _Arragon_, said to have
been built on White’s lines, the United States corvette _Dale_, and a
Dutch brig. Saluted the Brazilian flag, 21 guns.

[Sidenote: June 12.]

4.30 A.M.--Weighed and ran out of the harbour with a light land breeze.

[Sidenote: July 5.]

Gave the ship her last coat of paint, and remounted carronades; neither
useful nor ornamental.

[Sidenote: July 28.]

Arrived at Spithead. Saluted the flag of Admiral the Hon. Sir T.
Bladen-Capel, K.C.B. The steam tender _Sprightly_ came off for our
freight, $900,000, consigned to my friend E. Casher, for transhipment
to the Bank of England. At sunset weighed for Chatham.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

Anchored at Sheerness. Saluted flag of Vice-Admiral the Hon. Josceline
Percy. Glad to again renew an acquaintance which commenced when I
commanded _Childers_ in Mediterranean and was renewed at the Cape in
the _Dido_, when Sir Josceline was Commander-in-Chief.

[Sidenote: July 30.]

Paying off commencing. Sad to think out of 360 fine fellows, only 150
are left!




CHAPTER XLVIII

AT HOME


[Sidenote: 1851. Aug. 7.]

While _Mæander_ was dismantling, I attended the wedding of my nephew,
Edward Coke, and Miss Agar-Ellis, daughter of Lord Dover, whose
house was close to the Admiralty, and into which I walked after the
breakfast, wearing my wedding favour.

I was shown into the First Sea Lord’s room, with whom I had been on
terms of intimacy some years.

Before many minutes the door was thrown open, and Sir Francis Beaufort,
head of the Hydrographical Department, attended by his staff, addressed
me--“Captain Keppel, before I hold out the hand of welcome, I come in
the name of myself and Board to thank you for the manner in which you
upheld the dignity of this branch of the service on the Australian
station.” After shaking hands they withdrew. Being alone with my friend
Admiral Deans Dundas, I ventured on a little chaff, asking him where
their Lordships’ reprimand was. He told me that they had given the
reprimand stronger to Erskine, on whose report they had acted. This
amused me.

The Admiral then led me into the presence of Sir Francis Baring, the
First Lord, saying, “Here’s this fellow Keppel. I can do nothing with
him,” and withdrew. A more straightforward, upright man than Sir
Francis there could not be. He invited me to go into the business,
which ended in his asking if there was anything that I wanted at the
Admiralty.

I replied that if he would kindly promote my First Lieutenant I
should not care a straw about the reprimands! He then said that if my
Lieutenant was in every way eligible he should be promoted. (Bowyear
shortly afterwards served as Commander in the _Vengeance_, 84, with
Captain Lord Edward Russell. He is now an Admiral, living in Guernsey,
and often comes across in the summer, when we talk over old times.)

My invalid wife and self moved into the pretty lodge in Hyde Park,
lent us by my brother-in-law, Harry Stephenson, Deputy Ranger. The
First Exhibition was in full force, in Hyde Park, the idea having been
originated by the Prince Consort. Weeks passed before I was tired of
the novel scene. Everything was there, except ships.

What seemed to astonish our foreign neighbours most were the size of
our bath-tubs, jugs, and basins. I found that great and good Rajah,
Sir James Brooke, still under the persecution of his former agent,
Mr. Wise, who was assisted by what we called “The Revenue Cutter,”
Mr. Hume! Sir James was a wreck of his former self. Among our Norfolk
friends and relations I had plenty of shooting.

[Sidenote: Sept.]

Near Quidenham was Edward Eyre, Rector of Larling. His was a charming
family, consisting of wife, four daughters, and a young son. Eyre
kindly offered to help me in a book I was perpetrating, with a view to
vindicate the character of Rajah Brooke. Norfolk is a genial county; in
spite of politics they all work together.

My father on his deathbed had said to his wife that she would be the
first lady who ever won the Derby. He had at the time a promising bay
colt, “Bolingbroke,” who had won the “Hopeful” stakes at Newmarket in
1849, also the “Prendergast” at the second October meeting of that
year. Edwards was his trainer. In 1850 Bolingbroke ran sixth in the
Derby stakes in Edwards’s name. Report was strong that he had been got
at. He won the Don stakes at Doncaster.

I frequently dined with Rous, and held the sovereigns when matches were
made. My brother-in-law, Joseph Hawley, was getting up a promising
racing stud. After Goodwood I went with the Rajah and Brierly for
the Cowes Regatta. There were rumours of old friend Schetky retiring
from the office of marine painter to the Royal Yacht Squadron: the
very thing for Brierly, at all events he might make friends among the
members.

Every one was anxious to see the clipper yacht _America_, which won the
R.Y.S. Cup. She had unusually taunt spars, and was sold for £4000.

In the match against _Titiana_ she beat her by four minutes, twelve
seconds. Heard of Tom Spring’s death--good fellow; he had “benefit of
clergy” too.

[Sidenote: Nov.]

Holyoake of 78th was now at home, and made me a kind offer of a mount
with the Pytchley. My hunting kit was always ready. I think the meet
was Cottesmore. We were riding down the slope of a turnip-field, a
stiffish hedge at the bottom, a gate in the left corner. A fox got up
in front, and was through the hedge in a moment.

There was a cry of “keep your line”; mine was to the right of the post.
Just as my horse sprang for his jump, some heavy farmer on my right
turned my horse into the bottom of the ditch, which held water.

Unluckily I was undermost, and my spur penetrated the left shoulder of
the horse, who was got out, lame as a tree. Friend Holyoake was near at
hand. We had then a walk of four miles. The next time with the Pytchley
I was known as the “Post Captain.”




CHAPTER XLIX

SHORE TIME


[Sidenote: 1852.]

To Admiralty.

[Sidenote: London, Jan. 12. Jan. 13.]

At Woolwich; saw _Agamemnon_, nearly ready for launching. _Royal
Albert_, 120; will be the finest ship in the world.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

To Lodge, Club, and Admiralty. Death of the good Vice-Admiral, Sir
William Montague, C.B., puts friend Walpole on Flag List.

[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]

Went to Brighton, with possession of Rajah Brooke’s lodgings, 6 Marine
Parade.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

To Cams for Goodwood. Weather fine. Usual load on Delmé’s drag.

[Sidenote: July 30.]

A jolly week finishes to-day.

[Sidenote: Aug. 8.]

In London. Walked to Twickenham to dine with the Dowager Lady
Albemarle, who made me promise to meet her solicitor there on Wednesday
for my advantage! Went on Wednesday, but did not see advantage!

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

Dined on guard at St. James’s.

[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]

London dull without money! Great idea of applying for the Coast of
Africa Station. Early September found me among kind Norfolk friends,
within easy distances. Luckily for myself, but hardly so for friend
Eyre, Larling Rectory was the centre--besides there was the book. He
tried to make me believe that it amused him as much as it did me.
Close by were the Birches at Skipdom, Partridges at Hockham, and Lord
Colborne, whose keeper at Banham was at my disposal.

At Quidenham with brother Edward, but the blood-stock in the
neighbourhood had frightened away the game. Further north had equally
kind welcomes. In those days there was no driving, and as some of the
turnip-fields held more water than birds, my unwelcome baths were
frequent.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

The great Duke of Wellington died.

[Sidenote: Quidenham, Sept. 17.]

Dined with Lord Colborne, meeting Fanny Albemarle, who was staying with
brother Edward.

[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]

_Agamemnon_ to be given away. Reported self ready to First Sea Lord.
Dined with Hyde Parker at the Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]

Visited Baldwin Walker, who had nominated me to the First Sea Lord.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

To Reigate to visit Rajah Brooke.

[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]

Busy drawing up a report for the best means of suppressing piracy.

[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]

To the Admiralty at an early hour. _Agamemnon_ given to Sir T. Maitland.

[Sidenote: Sept. 28.]

To friend Eyre at Larling. Book progressing.

[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Nov. 4.]

The following letter raised my spirits:--

    ADMIRALTY, _Nov. 3, 1852_.

    MY DEAR KEPPEL--If there is employment in the Baltic, or
    elsewhere, for one of your rank, I will not forget you.--Yours
    sincerely,

    (Signed) M. F. H. BERKELEY.

[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]

Funeral of the Duke of Wellington. After the procession had passed the
Club, having ticket for St. Paul’s, tried to work my way, but found I
was not big enough.

[Sidenote: Dec. 1.]

By train to Portsmouth and Ryde, _en route_ to Puckaster for wedding of
Fanny Vine and Captain Times: happy match. _Déjeuner_ for forty-five
persons. Had to propose “Bride and Bridegroom.” Everything went off
well. Dinner at Sir John and Lady Harrington’s.

After the wedding my invalid wife was left under the care of her
sisters. I accompanied Fanny Albemarle to stay with her sister at
Mamhead Park, a charming place near Exeter, belonging to Sir Lydston
Newman, who, being in the Guards, left his uncle in the family mansion
to take care of his young sister, with whom I was on visit.

There was a lake which ran parallel with the sea, full of
wild-fowl--swans, ducks, geese, etc.--a most enjoyable place, with a
railway station conveniently near for excursions.




CHAPTER L

_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_


[Sidenote: 1853. May.]

Warlike rumours. Did not like the idea of being far from the
Admiralty, where I had friends. My wife was again established in our
pretty cottage at Droxford. The Crosbie family, although separated
by marriages, were kind to their invalid sister. A gem of same name,
daughter of Lord Brandon, Mrs. Yorke--now a widow--had a son in the
Navy.

For neighbours we had Tom Garnier, the kind Dean of Winchester. His
son, who was afterwards Dean of Lincoln, married my youngest sister
Caroline.

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Captain Sir Baldwin Walker, Comptroller, had built the finest
two-decker. The constructor of a new type of ship had generally been
allowed to nominate the captain. To Sir Baldwin I was indebted for my
appointment to the _St. Jean d’ Acre_, then fitting at Devonport. She
was 3400 tons, mounting 101 guns on two decks: crew, with officers and
men, 900.

[Sidenote: Devonport, May 23.]

_Acre_ was commissioned by Commander Peter Cracroft; most of the
officers joined in the first week. As this will be the fourth ship
my kind readers have helped me to fit out, they should be spared the
intricacies of a dockyard. That everything passed pleasantly I have
only to mention that my kind friend Commodore Michael Seymour was
superintendent, with whose charming family I chiefly lived. Admiral Sir
John Ommaney, K.C.B., a rough diamond, was Commander-in-Chief. Miss
Ommaney, equally kind, managed the household. Took charge of _Bellona_
hulk.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

Marine artillerymen and seamen, gunners joined from _Impregnable_,
marines from headquarters, making in all 200.

[Sidenote: June 4.]

My old friend, Colonel Yea, and officers of the Royal Fusiliers, who
were at Malta when I was in the _Childers_, kindly made me an honorary
member of their mess.

[Sidenote: June 15.]

Admiral came on board to muster and inspect ship’s company. Manned
yards. Got steam up and successfully tried engines. Got the first of
Rodgers’s iron-stocked bower anchors at the cat-head, 93 cwts.; neat
and serviceable-looking. First experience of coaling. Received 509
tons. Took us five days. Turned over from hulk to ship. Bent sails.

[Sidenote: July 30.]

Slipped moorings, ran out under screw, two miles beyond the Eddystone.
3 P.M.--Returned to the Sound.

[Sidenote: Sept. 15.]

3 P.M.--Sir James Graham and some Lords of the Admiralty came on board
unofficially. Steamed out. Saluting flag of Commander-in-Chief, stood
out beyond the Eddystone, and returned to the Sound.

[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]

Commodore Michael Seymour came on board and paid advance.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

8 A.M.--Weighed, made sail; raised and stowed screw.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

9 A.M.--Off entrance of Cork Harbour, observing court-martial flag.
Stood off until afternoon. On running in and shortening sail, saluted
flag of Rear-Admiral Sir William F. Carroll, K.C.B., and made signal,
“Where to anchor?” Reply, “Where convenient.”

There were nineteen ships, in two lines, composing the Channel
Squadron, under Rear-Admiral Sir Armand Lowry Corry. It was slack
water, and the ships, although moored, were in various positions. The
_Gondola_, cutter yacht, Lord Lichfield, could scarcely get through.
There was no room for us to haul to the wind. The screw was up. Nothing
left but to sheet home top and topgallant sails, and run the gauntlet
between the lines. As stated, they were across the tide. Several flying
and standing jib-booms had narrow escapes. At the end of the lines we
anchored.

The _Jenny d’ Acre_, as the seamen called her, got kudos: her
performance talked of at the clubs in London. On one occasion Lord
Adolphus Fitz-Clarence remarked on the great advantage of an auxiliary
screw. To which Sir James Graham replied, “Hang the fellow! He had no
screw down!”

Friend Brierly was on board, and made a very clever sketch of _Gondola_
and the _Acre_.

[Sidenote: Sept. 30.]

Fleet weighed, outermost ships first. Steamed and sailed out of
harbour. On getting outside we found _Agamemnon_, 91, screw steamship,
Captain Sir Thomas Maitland, Commander Robert Hall; _Hogue_, 60,
Captain William Ramsay; _Blenheim_, 60, Captain Hon. Frederick T.
Pelham; _Imperieuse_, 50, screw steam frigate, Captain Rundle B. Watson
(Viscount Gilford, a lieutenant); _Tribune_, 30, screw steam frigate,
Captain Hon. S. T. Carnegie; _Vulture_, 6, steam frigate, Captain Fred.
H. H. Glasse; _Desperate_, 8, screw steam ship, Captain William W.
Chambers; and _Sidon_, 22, paddle wheel, Captain George Goldsmith.
Parted company.

Remainder formed in two divisions--WEATHER: consisting of _Prince
Regent_ (flag), 90, Captain Frederick Hutton; _St. Jean d’ Acre_, 101;
_Amphion_, 34, screw steam frigate, Captain Astley C. Key; _Highflyer_,
21, screw steam frigate, Captain John Moore. LEE DIVISION: _Duke of
Wellington_, 130, screw steamship, Commodore Henry B. Martin; _London_,
90, Captain Charles Eden; _Arrogant_, 47, screw steamship, Captain
Hastings R. Yelverton; _Valorous_, 16, Captain Claude Buckle.

[Sidenote: Oct. 3.]

8 A.M.--Made all plain sail to try rate of sailing (per signal) on a
wind. Trial chiefly between the _Duke of Wellington_ and _St. Jean d’
Acre_, in which the latter had the advantage, a trifle only; the rest
nowhere. _Acre_ requiring trifle more false keel! 5 P.M.--Formed order
of sailing.

[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]

Tried rate of sailing off the wind, in which _St. Jean d’ Acre_ was
best.

[Sidenote: Oct. 8.]

9 A.M.--Got steam up. Admiral on board. Hoisted his flag. Tried speed
with _Duke of Wellington_--about equal. Engineers complaining of the
coals. 2 P.M.--Admiral returned to his ship, taking flag with him.

[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]

9.30 A.M.--Laid out targets. Fleet exercised at general quarters,
firing at a mark.

[Sidenote: Oct. 12.]

10 A.M.--Got steam up to try rate with _Duke of Wellington_ under steam
and canvas together; just as we got our steam well up, _Duke_ broke
down.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

Came to at Spithead with the fleet. Moored. Found _Blenheim_, 60;
_Leopard_, 12; brig _Rolla_, 6; and _Sidon_, 22; also a Russian
corvette.

[Sidenote: Oct. 17.]

At Admiralty: met Sir Edmund Lyons, who had been promised a command. He
was trying to find out what ship they would give him. He was just then
the only flag officer I would care to serve in the capacity of flag
captain, and offered ship and self for that purpose. On ascertaining
that I really meant what I said, he appeared to be equally satisfied
and went direct to the First Lord, but without success.

[Sidenote: Oct. 18.]

Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane visited and inspected without notice.

[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]

4 P.M.--Weighed. Steamed into Portsmouth Harbour and secured alongside
_Camperdown_.

[Sidenote: Nov. 12.]

Not sorry to receive enclosed:--

    ADMIRALTY, _Nov. 10, 1853_.

    MY DEAR KEPPEL--When _St. Jean d’ Acre_ is ready for sea you
    will be ordered on a cruise to the southward in order that you
    may get your ship’s company into proper training, and I quite
    agree with you of the necessity for doing so.--Always yours
    sincerely,

    HYDE PARKER.

[Sidenote: Nov. 14.]

Turned over to hulk.

[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]

In steam basin, additional false keel having been placed from 3 inches
forward to 9 abaft, exactly what I wanted.

[Sidenote: Nov. 19.]

Noon.--Ship out of basin to hulk. Steam up at 9 A.M. for amusement of
dockyard officials. Ship coaling. Cleaning hulk, and shifting over.

[Sidenote: Nov. 26.]

Dressed ship masthead flags. Ships in harbour manning yards and
saluting on Her Majesty’s embarking from Royal Clarence Victualling
Yard. Ships at Spithead doing same on _Fairy_ passing through _en
route_ to Osborne.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

11.20 A.M.--Cast off from hulk and steamed out of harbour. Saluted flag
of Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane. Proceeded to Stokes Bay. Tried
speed under steam at measured mile. Mean of six trials just under 12
knots per hour. 3.30 P.M.--Came to at Spithead.

[Sidenote: Dec. 5.]

Got on board powder and shell. Received supernumeraries for fleet at
Lisbon.

[Sidenote: Dec. 6.]

3 P.M.--Weighed and made sail, standing towards St. Helens.

[Sidenote: Plymouth, Dec. 7.]

8.40.--Came to in the Sound. Found _Hogue_ and _Magicienne_.

[Sidenote: Dec. 12.]

Commodore-Superintendent Michael Seymour came on board and paid advance
to newly raised men. Crew complete. 7 P.M.--Weighed; made sail and
stood out of the Sound to join fleet in Tagus.

[Sidenote: Off Tagus, Dec. 18.]

Took pilot on board and ran into the Tagus by northern passage. Pilot
informing me there was no quarantine, ran past Belem without picking up
health boat. 3 P.M.--Shortened, and while furling sails, signal from
flag to take up a different berth from that for which we were prepared.

Being carried up by the tide, and but little steerage way, had
difficulty in clearing _Imperieuse_, and in swinging carried away
_Desperate’s_ jibboom. Placed in quarantine. Signal from flag to
“Moor.” When completed, signal to “Weigh immediately and proceed to
Belem.” Before under weigh, another signal, “Despatch is necessary.”
Wind failing and flood making, came to in centre of stream.

[Sidenote: Lisbon, Dec. 19.]

Daylight.--Weighed and dropped down to Belem. Fleet in river,
consisting of _Prince Regent_, flag; _Duke of Wellington_, Commodore H.
Martin; _Imperieuse_, _Arrogant_, _Tribune_, _Valorous_, _Desperate_,
_Odin_, _Amphion_ and _Cruizer_.

[Sidenote: Dec. 20.]

Having got pratique, 2 P.M., weighed and made sail. Worked up. Fired
two royal salutes, in company with the fleet, on the young King of
Portugal visiting and leaving. 4.30--Came to, as per signal, in 26
fathoms, Packet Stairs, N.E. by E. Measles in the ship; sent cases to
hospital.

[Sidenote: Dec. 24.]

Light and contrary winds with falling tides. Signal made for particular
ships to weigh. 10.40 A.M.--Weighed to allow _Duke of Wellington_ to
pass clear. At 11, having water-tank alongside, came to in 22 fathoms.
Fleet under way, working down. Breeze freshening, found ship dragging
anchor. Stood as close as we could, with safety, in-shore to get out of
the way.

_Desperate_ missing stays, and having got stem way fell thwart our
hawse, carrying away mainmast and portion of her bulwarks, we losing
jib and flying jibboom, and bowsprit cap starting. After this and other
mishaps, fleet came to an anchor. Chief more at home in Cowes Roads.

[Sidenote: Off Lisbon, Dec. 28.]

11.30.--Weighed. Noon.--Made sail, running down the Tagus for a month’s
cruising for the purpose of exercising newly raised men. Cruising
ground between Cape Roca and Madeira. Wind blowing fresh from the N.E.,
made for the islands.

[Sidenote: Dec. 31.]

1 P.M.--Came to in 40 fathoms, Funchal Roads. Saluted the Portuguese
flag.




CHAPTER LI

_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_--CRUISING


[Sidenote: 1854. Madeira, Jan. 2.]

Many friends on shore, besides residents; among them Frederick
Grey, with his charming but invalid wife. My intention was, weather
permitting, to anchor in the Roads on Saturdays, remain Sundays, and
proceed on a cruise Monday mornings. Among sailing and yachting friends
was Sir Charles Lyall, requiring change of air.

Frederick Grey had brought his wife, but she was delicate, and
preferred the shore; in such an open anchorage the swell is uncertain.
Regular exercise improved health and strength of crew. We sometimes
anchored among the Deserter Islands. On Saturdays, if smooth, the poor
invalid ladies, mostly young and consumptive, used to come on board in
charge of their doctors. Music was always at hand, and very willing
partners.

It was pitiable to see the pretty girls, with that sad hectic flush on
the cheek, pleading with their doctors for “one, only one” quadrille,
and the doctors reminding their patients of the one month, or so many
weeks, they had to live, and that each dance would shorten life so many
days. Most of the poor dears preferred the dance.

[Sidenote: Jan. 13.]

Anchored in Porto Santo, leaving Grey to amuse himself. Started in gig
to explore the interior harbour. On nearing the land, found a surf
breaking: pulled to the eastward. Approaching the Stone, further on,
observed smooth water inside the surf. I entered, pulling a good half
mile in perfect safety. We amused ourselves in dredging for shells, etc.

[Illustration: _Gunnery Exercise._]

On returning on board found that Fred Grey had watched the gig
carefully through my best Dolland. Seeing her disappear behind the
surf, he told me that he had written the Admiralty an account of my
loss, and requested he might be appointed to the vacancy!

[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]

Weighed at daylight, arriving next day in Funchal Roads.

[Sidenote: Jan. 17.]

Had a party on board to breakfast and dance.

[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]

Weighed and made sail, having been most hospitably entertained during
our visit.

[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]

The last month’s cruise gave me thorough confidence in the crew. We
had throughout the usual exercise before sunset in reefing and other
manœuvres. The officers of the night watches were at liberty to use
their discretion in making or shortening sail, reporting any change to
the Captain. Weather beautiful. Until midnight I had walked the deck
with the officer of the watch. My cot was under the poop.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

About an hour after I heard the “pat” of single drops of rain.
Recollecting the old saying, “Rain before the wind, take topsails in;
wind before the rain, make sail again,” I rang the bell for the officer
of the watch. He said it was a beautiful night. I cautioned him to keep
a good look-out, hands by halyards, etc. Not many minutes after, the
three topgallant masts were over the side. The ship was hove to. The
wreck was cleared by daylight.

[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]

The wind abated, but not the sea, and, horror of horrors, at daylight
the main topmast was found sprung just below the rigging. The main
topmast of such a ship was heavy, and with ever so light a swell
difficult to control, but I determined to risk the responsibility. The
chief danger was, after the head of the new topmast had been passed
through the main cap, a lurch might spring the head of the mainmast.

A victory after a fight could not have given me greater pleasure than
when the fid was in its place, and support spread like a cobweb. Fair
readers, forgive my attempting to describe the event; such a thing can
never happen again. Nor should you hear of it now, had I not registered
a vow to tell the “truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth,
so help me ----.” By the 31st we were in Gibraltar Bay, and soon got
rid of every vestige of our mishap.

[Sidenote: Gibraltar, Feb. 4.]

12.30.--Weighed and steamed out, having received orders to rejoin the
Fleet at Lisbon, without delay.

[Sidenote: Feb. 5.]

3 P.M.--Observed the fleet in the Tagus, Rear-Admiral Corry having
shifted his flag from blue to white. 4.30.--Came to in 12 fathoms off
Belem Castle, having eight days’ quarantine to complete from the time
of leaving Gibraltar.

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

De Crispigny promoted to rank of Lieutenant, and appointed to _James
Watts_. Put him on board _Desperate_ as she steamed past on her way
home.

[Sidenote: Lisbon, Feb. 12.]

11 A.M.--Weighed, rejoined fleet, came to off Packet Stairs.

[Sidenote: Feb. 15.]

Weighed and made sail as per signal. Hove to for fleet at noon; filled
and took station in line-of-battle astern of flag, _Duke of Wellington_
leading division.

[Sidenote: At Sea, Feb. 21.]

9 A.M.--Fleet formed ahead of lee column. Hove to; laid out targets and
exercised at general quarters.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

Arrived Spithead. Found _Princess Royal_ with flag of Vice-Admiral Sir
Charles Napier; _Edinburgh_, flag of Rear-Admiral Chads; _Boscawen_,
_Hogue_, _Odin_, _Leopard_, _Magæra_, _Dragon_, _Simoom_, and _Frolic_.
5 P.M.--Sailed _Simoom_, one of our early magnificent class of
transports, with First Battalion Scots Fusilier Guards _en route_ to
Crimea. Manned rigging and cheered.

[Sidenote: Mar. 2.]

Completed water. Sent Phipps, one of our promising youngsters, to the
hospital. Laid out, and had constant practice at target (an exercise
which continued to end of the chapter!).

[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]

Arrived _Royal George_, Codrington.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

Arrived _Duke of Wellington_, and hoisted flag of Admiral Sir Charles
Napier. Manned yards, fired royal salute, and cheered as Her Majesty
passed through the fleet.

[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]

12.30--The Queen visited the fleet in the _Fairy_ yacht. Cheered from
the rigging as Her Majesty passed. Later, signal from the yacht for
Admirals and Captains to be presented to Her Majesty by the First Lord
of the Admiralty.

Each ship had friends on board. I had my due proportion of visitors.
Among them Brierly, nephew Bury; Edward, now Lord Digby; young Harry
Stephenson, whose father, my brother-in-law, had quarrelled with me not
long before for having offered to take one of his boys to sea. He now
was the greatest child, dancing a hornpipe on the forecastle in Hessian
boots! His son Harry, too young to enter the Navy, was stowed away, and
remained with me, as did Brierly and Bury.

The wind was west-north-west. Made sail before weighing. Yards braced
for casting to port. Although on the poop with friends had assumed
charge. Signal made, “Fleet to weigh.” Her Majesty in yacht ready to
lead.

The master at that moment reported there was only one ship’s length
between us and the head of the Spit. The anchor was already at the
cathead. Piped “Belay.” “Man starboard braces.” As she came head to
wind, ran the jibs up, heading towards the Spit. With the stern-way
thus secured we were in deep water, and shortly in position next astern
of the flag. Old seamen may ask, “Why starboard instead of port braces?”

For increase of purchase I had the head braces, when they reached the
main bitts, led across, which was quickly understood by that useful
body of men the Royal Marines. When this little manœuvre was explained,
Digby went below and wrote a cheque for £100. Never was a tip more
welcome. Her Majesty led the fleet as far as the Nab. 2.30.--Hove to.
Friends left according to their arrangements as we ran slowly along
the coast. Wind fair, weather fine, and constant communication. Many
remained until following day. With yachts and pleasure boats it was a
grand sight. At 4 P.M. we, by signal, formed into two lines--


       PORT.

    _Edinburgh._
    _Hogue._
    _Blenheim._
    _Ajax._
    _Tribune._
    _Amphion._


       STARBOARD.

    _Duke of Wellington._
    _St. Jean d’ Acre._
    _Royal George._
    _Princess Royal._
    _Imperieuse._
    _Arrogant._


Frigates: _Leopard_, flag of Admiral Plumridge, _Valorous_ and _Dragon_.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

_Hecla_ joined with Baltic pilots. Rough lot; huge pipes, sealskin
caps, and waistcoats!

[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]

Fleet weighed. Proceeded. Dense fog.

[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]

No rendezvous given.

[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]

Admiral firing a gun every fifteen minutes. Fog continuing. Several of
the fleet missing.

[Sidenote: Vinga Sound, Mar. 19.]

Admiral shifted flag to _Valorous_ and proceeded to Copenhagen.

[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]

Sunset.--_Valorous_ returned with Commander-in-Chief, bringing lots of
cherry brandy.

[Sidenote: Vinga Sound, Mar. 23.]

Weighed in company with fleet. Formed prescribed order of sailing,
proceeded towards the Great Belt. 3. P.M.--_Neptune_, with flag of
Rear-Admiral Corry, in sight. Salutes exchanged between Admirals.
Signal made “Prepare to anchor.” The usual routine of manœuvring,
firing at targets, etc., went on. _St. Jean d’ Acre_ being one of the
few fitted with distilling apparatus, we were constantly supplying
other ships with pure water.

[Sidenote: Kioga Bay, April 3.]

Squally weather. 1.30.--Parted B.B. cable while veering quickly after
letting go, but saved fouling _Royal George_. Struck topmasts and let
go sheet-anchor.

[Sidenote: April 4.]

Succeeded in hooking B.B. cable, but too much swell to weigh. Succeeded
later.

Following communication made from Commander-in-Chief by signal flags
from each yard-arm as well as masthead.

    “Lads! war is declared; with a bold and numerous enemy to meet.

    “Should they offer us battle, you know how to dispose of them.

    “Should they remain in port we must try and get at them.

    “Success depends on the precision and quickness of your firing.

    “Lads! sharpen your cutlasses, and the day is your own!”

[Illustration: St. Jean d’Acre.]




CHAPTER LII

THE BALTIC FLEET


[Sidenote: 1854. Kioga Bay.]

My cabin was the after-part of the main-deck, with its accommodation
and comforts; but under the impression that business was intended I
did away with luxuries. Instead of drawers I had tin cases to fit
neatly overhead between the beams. One quarter-gallery was my bath and
dressing-room; no bulkheads of any sort. At dinner-time a temporary
canvas-screen fitted, after we went to the stern walk, which did duty
of after-cabin. Exercising at quarters, we transferred the foremost
guns from each side, and fired them out of my cabin windows.

On visiting Clarence Paget in the _Princess Royal_ I found a cot hung
up, with a chubby-faced boy down with fever. It was Victor Montagu, the
young son of Lord Sandwich, midshipman and nephew of his captain. We
met afterwards in China and elsewhere.

[Sidenote: April 12.]

Daylight.--Fleet weighed and made sail as per signal. In all, 39
pennants.

[Sidenote: April 25.]

Dressed ships with masthead flags in honour of the birthday of the
Princess Alice.

[Sidenote: May 1.]

Arrived the _Austerlitz_, 100 guns, screw propeller, Captain Laurençin,
the first of the French fleet. She had been several days at different
rendezvous. On board was my friend Gizholme of Tahiti as second. Our
meeting was cordial: we embraced as Frenchmen. Beyond the exchange
of salutes, no further public mark shown of how we appreciated the
alliance, but the figureheads, “Napoleon and Wellington,” were
confronting one another.

[Sidenote: Elgsmabben, May 4.]

Arrived, Captain Henry Seymour, from West Indies and England. We had
long been on the look-out for the _Cumberland_. It was a pleasure and
amusement to initiate Seymour into the mysteries of this warlike fleet,
which no one seemed to understand. My friend had a charming younger
brother, Wilfrid, with him, whose profession had not been decided
on. Henry was full of life and spirits, looking forward to great
things--yet to be done.

[Sidenote: May 5.]

Fleet weighed as per signal, screws under steam, and proceeded through
the Daläräo Channel. Rendezvous Golska Sands. _Austerlitz_ in co.
Before the leading ships had reached the Landsort Lighthouse, the whole
fleet was enveloped in fog.

[Sidenote: May 7.]

Commander George Wodehouse joined the fleet.

[Sidenote: May 8.]

Intelligence having reached of death from drowning of Captain Foote of
the _Conflict_, the Admiral promoted Commander Cumming of the _Gorgon_
into the vacancy, appointing Commander Cracroft of this ship to the
_Gorgon_; sending the Commander of the _Cressy_, John Dorville, who was
anxious for a change anywhere, to the _St. Jean d’Acre_; and promoting
the first lieutenant of the _Duke_, an arrangement which appeared to
give satisfaction to all parties except myself, who had parted with an
esteemed friend and good officer. I was glad, however, to get Dorville.

[Sidenote: May 17.]

A division of ships placed under command of Rear-Admiral Corry.
Remainder formed into two lines:--

    _Duke of Wellington._
    _Hogue._
    _St. Jean d’Acre._
    _Blenheim._
    _Austerlitz._

    _Edinburgh._
    _Cressy._
    _Cæsar._
    _Princess Royal._

[Sidenote: Running for Hangö.]

We used to be next astern of the flag, but I fancy the Chief got tired
of our figurehead--a fine half-figure of Sir Robert Stopford--always
looking into the stern-windows of his cabin!

[Sidenote: Running for Hangö Island.]

11 A.M.--Signal made for us to proceed in chase of a stranger ahead.
May 14 having been fixed as the latest day on which neutral vessels
quitting a Russian port would be allowed to pass the line of blockade,
brought in sight a number of vessels, from whom we obtained accurate
information of the position and force of the Russian fleets at
Kronstadt and Helsingfors. 8 P.M.--Resumed station in line of battle.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

Signal made for us to look out on starboard beam of flag.

[Sidenote: May 19.]

7 A.M.--Boarded several vessels that had left Kronstadt or Narva on or
before the 14th. 8.30 P.M.--Resumed station.

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Arrived _Arrogant_ and _Hecla_ with Russian prize barque, which they
had cut out at Eckness. They were cheered on joining the fleet.

[Sidenote: May 22.]

Received from the _St. George_ our spare screw propeller, seven tons
weight; awkward to stow. Placed it athwart, and between the end of the
booms and galley-funnels. Still supplying distilled water!!

[Sidenote: May 24.]

Fired royal salute in commemoration of Her Majesty’s birthday.

[Sidenote: Hangö Roads, May 26.]

9.30 A.M.--Commander-in-Chief came on board, nominally to inspect,
and left again after having made some unjust remarks relative to the
gunnery and drill of the ship, such as, if reported to the Admiralty,
might be considered by them as an excuse for his having for so long
persistently avoided the neighbourhood of the enemy’s ships.

[Sidenote: June 2.]

8.45.--Came to with the fleet in Barösund.

[Sidenote: June 3.]

Arrived _Hecla_, who supplied us with eight oxen, without fodder!
Slaughtered them. Received more potatoes than we could consume.

[Sidenote: June 4.]

Arrived _Pigmy_, Lieutenant James Hunt, my _Dido_ shipmate.

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Stood out of Barösund.

[Sidenote: June 12.]

5.30 A.M.--Weighed under steam, standing to the eastward. _Imperieuse_
and _Arrogant_ joined, we being on their cruising-ground. Fleet came to
off Helsingfors, from which place, by telescope, the masts of some of
the Russian fleet could be seen at anchor in the harbour.

[Sidenote: June 13.]

At 5.30 A.M.--Fleet weighed and made sail. 6.30.--Observed the French
fleet to the westward. The French Vice-Admiral, M. P. Deschênes,
hoisted the English ensign at the main, and saluted flag of Sir
Charles Napier. Salute returned. English fleet saluting French flag.
10.--Shortened and furled; proceeded under steam.

On joining company, found French fleet to consist of the _Inflexible_,
90, Vice-Admiral Deschênes; _Du Guesclin_, 90, Rear-Admiral Penana;
_Hercule_, 100, Captain Louien; _Jemappes_, 100, Captain Robin du
Parc; _Taga_, 100, Captain Fabore; _Duperié_, 82, Captain Penana; and
_Trident_, 82, Captain F. de Maussion de Condé, with seven frigates,
besides steamers. French fleet hove to, while our fleet passed heading
into Barösund. Paddle-wheel steamers assisting in towing French fleet
in.

1 P.M.--Came to in sixteen fathoms. After the French fleet had
anchored, the allied forces in Barösund consisted of 19 English ships
of the line (11 of these screws), 8 French ships of the line (1 screw)
4 French, and one English frigate, 13 steamers of both nations. We had
also the _Belleisle_ (Hospital) and _Resistance_, store-ship, making
a total of 47 men-of-war. There were in the anchorage _Esmeralda_,
and R.Y.S. _Gondola_, Lord Lichfield’s yacht, besides colliers and
transports, making altogether a goodly sight. The French fleet had 2000
marines on board, beyond their complement.

[Sidenote: June 14.]

Admiral Sir Charles Napier visited the French Commander-in-Chief in the
_Inflexible_; the French fleet manning yards and cheering.

[Illustration: _The Commander-in-Chief._]

[Sidenote: Barösund, June 15.]

French Vice-Admiral, Parseval Deschênes, returned Sir Charles Napier’s
visit. The captains of the British ships attended on board the _Duke
of Wellington_, when they were introduced to the French Admiral, and
honours paid him similar to those received by Sir Charles Napier.
Received powder and shot from _Resistance_.

[Sidenote: June 16.]

Laid out targets at 750 yards, and exercised at general quarters.
Practice particularly good at mark--a single staff cut down over and
over again. Received shot from _Resistance_, 10, troop-ship, Master
Commander Manser Bradshaw.

[Sidenote: June 20.]

Dressed ship with masthead flags, and at noon both fleets fired a royal
salute in honour of anniversary of Her Majesty’s accession.

[Sidenote: Sestran Island, June 24.]

French fleet proceeded to eastward, Admirals communicating, when it was
proposed by Parseval Deschênes to Sir Charles Napier that, to prove to
the Russians the _entente cordiale_ that existed between our nations,
the English screw-liners should each take a French liner in tow, and
proceed in line past the Russian forts, the French Admiral, as senior
officer, waiving his right of precedence. His proposition was not
acceded to by Sir Charles Napier; the excuse that “His Captains were
too inexperienced to undertake such an operation”!

[Sidenote: Off Kronstadt, June 26.]

5 A.M.--Fleet weighed under steam. French fleet in co., proceeding easy
to eastward. 11 A.M.--Approached near enough to Kronstadt to observe
the mastheads of the Russian fleet and then wore. 1.50.--Came to in
16 fathoms. Anchored in two columns. Frigates and steamers sent to
reconnoitre.

[Sidenote: June 27.]

_Driver_ arrived. Cholera made its appearance on board both fleets.
Elliot, Clarence Paget, and myself took advantage of a kind invitation
from Lord Lichfield for a sail on board the _Gondola_, as we might run
pretty close to the entrance of Kronstadt without attracting attention.

[Illustration: _The_ Gondola _Yacht off Tolbeacon Light_.]

We were some distance inside the Tolbeacon Lighthouse, as were also the
cruising frigates, when we observed a large Russian steamer standing
out. When it was thought advisable for us to haul to the wind, the
sudden change of motion and difference of size of ships had the effect
on me of a stomach pump; and when it was reported that the Russian
was steering for us, I considered myself a Russian prisoner! However,
cruisers quickly discovered our position and ran towards the Russian,
which returned to Kronstadt. This led to a report getting into the
English papers that we had been chased by the Emperor Nicholas in
person.

[Sidenote: June 28.]

Hoisted masthead flags, and at noon both fleets fired a royal salute in
honour of anniversary of Her Majesty’s coronation. On these occasions
the French and English flags were hoisted together. My distillery was
never at rest, supplying fleet with the purest of water.

[Sidenote: June 29.]

9.30 A.M.--Weighed; made all plain sail for exercise. During our stay
off Kronstadt, steamers and boats from the fleet were continually
sounding on the north side of the island, thereby pointing out from
whence an attack might be expected, when nothing of the sort was ever
contemplated.

[Sidenote: July 1.]

There was a creek that ran up a considerable distance to the rear of
the Kronstadt Batteries. Scarcely a ship of the line that did not
submit to the consideration of the Commander-in-Chief an exact model
of the boats and spars, with weight and draught of each, by which
heavy ordnance could be conveyed to the rear of the Russian Batteries.
The Commander-in-Chief’s fore-cabin was half full of these clever and
interesting models, which were not even acknowledged.

[Sidenote: July 2.]

9.30.--Weighed under steam. Fleets in co. 6 P.M.--Came to off Seskan
Island.

No encouragement given by Chief to mix with cheery allies.

[Sidenote: July 13.]

Sailed _Majestic_, on a cruise, being sickly with cholera.

[Sidenote: July 18.]

Arrived _Dauntless_, 33, screw-steamer frigate. Captain Alfred P.
Ryder. Joined Mr. Stanley Graham, son of First Lord, midshipman from
_Dauntless_.

[Sidenote: July 21.]

Admiral Corry returning to England in _Dauntless_, ships remaining were
placed under the orders of Commodore Martin, and proceeded to cruise in
the Gulf of Finland. 4.30 P.M.--Arrived Admiral Plumridge in _Leopard_;
with a division of steamers joined company. 7 P.M.--Rounded Lagskar
Lighthouse. 9.45.--Came to in 13 fathoms in Ledsund.

[Sidenote: July 22.]

Notice having been received that 10,000 French troops were coming out,
preparations were made for an attack on the fort at Bomarsund. The
destruction of which might, with little or no difficulty, have been
accomplished in the month of April by a division of the British fleet.

At daylight the block-ships and _Amphion_ under Admiral Chads, and
steam division under Admiral Plumridge, proceeded towards Bomarsund--a
safe channel for ships of any draught having been discovered by Captain
William Hall of _Hecla_, and afterwards buoyed off by Captain Sullivan.

[Sidenote: July 24.]

Marines inspected by Colonel Graham, who pronounced them the finest
body of men he had seen in the fleet.

[Sidenote: July 26.]

_Odin_ arrived; Captain Francis Scott, old friend of my lieutenant days.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

Supplied _Cumberland_ with water. Sent three cholera cases to
_Belleisle_.

[Sidenote: July 31.]

Four more cholera cases; making us anxious for health of crew. Arrived
General Barraguay d’Hilliers and staff in the French Emperor’s yacht
_La Reine Hortense_ from Stockholm; received him with cheers and yards
manned. Visits exchanged between Chiefs and others. Manning of yards.

[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]

French and English Generals and engineer officers visiting Bomarsund to
make arrangements prior to attack. Steam vessels constantly on the move
between this anchorage and Åland Islands. More cholera cases! Ordered
by Commander-in-Chief to send field-pieces, _without men_, on board
_Driver_ for conveyance to Admiral Chads.

[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]

Another death, a marine, from cholera, making, since its first
appearance on 27th June, twenty cases, of which twelve proved fatal.

[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]

French ships proceeding towards Bomarsund, four of their largest ships,
with both Admirals, besides frigates, steamers, and transports.

[Sidenote: Aug. 7.]

Sent scaling ladders to _Bulldog_ for conveyance to Admiral Chads.
General Barraguay d’Hilliers proceeded to Bomarsund in _La Reine
Hortense_. Embarked seventy marines under command of Captain Clavell,
and Lieutenants Brooke and Davidson, on board _Dawn_, in compliance
with a request made by Barraguay d’Hilliers, but reluctantly acceded to
by Sir Charles Napier, for land service.

Not, as the General informed me, that he required the force, but
that he was anxious we should share in all operations; such being
the express wish of the French Emperor. Lieutenant Lennox attended
as A.D.C. to Colonel Graham. All remaining transports and steamers
proceeded up. Commander-in-Chief, attended by the Captain of the Fleet,
Rear-Admiral Seymour and suite, hoisted his flag in _Bulldog_.




CHAPTER LIII

THE BOMBARDMENT OF BOMARSUND


[Sidenote: 1854.]

Before Bomarsund was regularly invested there were places where our
wardroom officers could land by twos and threes for exercise, when
it was not worth while for the Russian Circular Towers to expend
ammunition.

On one occasion, when the officers had taken my nephew, Harry
Stephenson, a round shot buried itself within a few yards of them. They
dispersed in haste, all but young Harry, who picked up a pointed stick
and commenced digging at his first trophy.

The _St. Jean d’Acre_ and the _Cumberland_ were, with many others,
at Ledsund, five-and-twenty miles from Bomarsund; but Seymour and I
thought, for the good of the Service, we should be eye-witnesses of the
preparations. The troops left for Bomarsund on the afternoon of the
7th. Late in the evening Henry Seymour and I started in my gig, sailing
or pulling easily.

[Sidenote: Aug. 8.]

In a thick fog, about 3 A.M., we landed on a wooden pier to cook
an early coffee. While this was going on we heard _three_ heavy
explosions. Seymour thought it must be the Admirals’ daylight guns. But
there were only two Admirals!

Although in a dense fog, with our boat’s compass we knew pretty well
where we ought to be, and found ourselves alongside the _Blenheim_, 60,
Captain Hon. Fred Pelham, who gave us all the information we required.

The ball was to open at daylight, by the French steamer _Phlegethon_
and English frigate _Amphion_, who had ascertained the exact range of
the Russian fort that was intended to destroy any force that might
attempt a landing.

After a while we found ourselves close to the very fort on which the
frigates were to open fire. Neither seeing anything nor hearing the
slightest noise we entered by one of the embrasures. It was deserted,
but before doing so the Russians had attempted to burst the guns, and
had only partially succeeded. One gun had the muzzle blown off; one
only had completely burst; a third had gone off, but half-buried itself
in the earth. There were in all five heavy eight-inch guns. These three
explosions were what Seymour and myself had heard while drinking our
coffee on the wooden pier.

It was now about the appointed time that the frigates were to open fire
on the fort we were in; they had taken the exact range the previous
evening. We lay off, the fog as dense as ever. We were none too soon.
The _Amphion_ and _Phlegethon_ fired shell, which, bursting in the
fort, had the appearance in the fog of a return fire.

After a while there was a lull. Presently we heard distant cheering.
This was from the crews coming to take possession of the fort they
had silenced. The fog continued, and it was high time we took care of
ourselves. On the south-eastern end of the anchorage, in Lumpar Bay,
was the _Odin_ steamer, 16 guns, commanded by our young old friend,
Frank Scott. Here we were well taken care of and jolly, narrating our
adventures. Wilfrid Seymour had joined us from the _Sphynx_.

It was between 2 and 3 P.M. when the officer of the watch reported the
Admiral coming. What were we to do? Frank Scott had a lumber cabin in
which he kept spare furniture when clear for action. In this we hid.
When he and Sir Charles had sat down to the usual grog, the Chief said
to Scott:--“That was a dom’d fine thing of the frigates this morning.”
Scott replied, without thinking, “Why, I hear there was no one in the
fort”! To which the old Chief replied, “Who has been telling you a
dom’d lie? Why, Chaads saw, from the masthead, at least five hundred
soldiers rush out”!

On the morning of the 10th the disembarkation of the guns commenced.
Each ship had been ordered to prepare two sledges, made according to a
pattern by Captain Ramsay of the _Hogue_.

Amongst the officers so employed was H.S.H. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe,
mate of the _Cumberland_, who was put in charge of a 12-pounder
field-piece, with which he kept one of the circular forts employed. He
was very happy, pounding away at the fort, all the while puffing at his
pet meerschaum “peep.”

It is not my intention to trouble my readers with a sailor’s opinion
of the capture of Bomarsund. Experienced officers, both French and
English, worked well together.

I was like the boy that was sent to a French school, who, on inquiry of
his parents when he got home for the holidays, said, “We had nothing
to do, and we did it.” But with my friend Henry Seymour, who had his
younger brother (now General Lord William Seymour, in command of our
troops in Canada), we had great fun; with a tent between us and our
ships’ gigs we really enjoyed ourselves. On one occasion, when camped
under a hill, the Russian shot passed over our heads into the country
beyond. The next morning Henry felt a little nervous on account of the
young brother, and proposed shifting our tent nearer the hill; the
change was only just completed, when a round shot dropped into the site
of our former position.

[Illustration: _Circular Fort, Bomarsund._]




CHAPTER LIV

_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_


[Sidenote: 1854. Ledsund. Aug. 17.]

Ships and steamers coming from Bomarsund.

Launches employed in conveying prisoners from steamers to troop-ships.
The lately promoted Rear-Admiral Michael Seymour hoisted his flag in
_Duke of Wellington_.

[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]

Plumridge sailed in _Leopard_ to relieve Henry Martin, in command of
the reserve division at Nargen.

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

Sailed _Hannibal_, Commodore Hon. Frederick Grey, _Algiers_, _St.
Vincent_, _Royal William_, _Termagant_, _Sphynx_, and _Gladiator_ with
Russian prisoners. Several pleasure steamers from Stockholm passed on
their way to Bomarsund.

[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]

Three block-ships, with _Bulldog_, bearing flag of Commander-in-Chief,
came down from Bomarsund.

[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]

Dressed ship with masthead flags, and at noon fired a royal salute in
commemoration of Prince Albert’s birthday.

[Sidenote: Sept. 1.]

_Cuckoo_ arrived from Bomarsund with flag of Rear-Admiral Seymour,
which was transferred to the _Duke_.

[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]

All the paddle-steamers went up to assist in towing transports with
French troops; they, as well as the French men-of-war, preparing to
quit Bomarsund on the destruction of the forts.

It was a grand sight, the blowing up of the forts: expensive as well.

[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]

Heard that my old shipmate of _Dido_, Jim Hunt, now in command of
_Pigmy_, had gone wrong side of the red buoy and was on shore. Went in
gig to ascertain amount of assistance required. Found that anchor had
been laid out, but the crew were tired or else too lazy to work. It
was evident that they had been observed by Russians on the high ground
beyond the Narrows, and shortly two pieces of artillery hove in sight.

My boat’s crew were ready to help, when Jim Hunt thus addressed his
crew:

“The enemy in sight with guns! We shall be made prisoners. You,--you
lazy blackguards, will be marched off to Siberia, fed on sour krout and
tallow candles; while _I_ shall be fêted and fed on shore in the best
society!”

[Sidenote: Ledsund.]

The speech told. _Pigmy_ arrived at Ledsund. Field-Marshal Barraguay
d’Hilliers came down from Bomarsund in a French war steamer. Both
fleets manned yards, the flagships saluting, and at 3 P.M. he sailed
for France.

[Sidenote: Sept. 12.]

Arrived _La Reine Hortense_, bringing a Field-Marshal’s baton for
General Barraguay d’Hilliers.

[Sidenote: Sept. 14.]

_Leopard_, with flag of Rear-Admiral Martin, came from Bomarsund,
having remained to witness destruction of all the works completed.

[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]

Fleet weighed per signal and proceeded under steam. French fleet
in company. Formed order of sailing in two columns. French Admiral
saluted. On his salute being returned by the _Duke_, fleet hoisted
French colours. Parted company with French fleet.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

Arrived Russian steamer with flag of truce, and communicated with
Commander-in-Chief. Fleet weighed, proceeding under steam. Formed order
of sailing in two columns.

[Sidenote: Sept. 21.]

_Euryalus_ joined company. Came to, per signal, off Nargen Island.

[Sidenote: Nargen Island, Oct. 10.]

2 P.M.--Arrived _Bulldog_ with mail. Dressed ship with masthead flags,
and fired a royal salute in commemoration of the victory gained by the
Allied Army at Alma on September 20 in the Crimea.

[Illustration: _The Battle of the Alma._]

[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]

Came to in Kiel Harbour. Received the following interesting letter from
my nephew, Augustus Stephenson:--

    ROOKSBURY, _October 12, 1854_.

    MY DEAR UNCLE--We have this day received your letter of October
    3, and are delighted at so good an account of yourself.

    We hope before you receive this that little Harry will have
    rejoined you.

    By your letter I suppose you have heard of the false news we
    received here in England of the taking of Sevastopol.

    The news was false at the time; though I believe it was only
    premature, as before now, I trust, we are in the possession of
    it.

    The papers of to-day say that the bombardment commenced at 5
    P.M. on the 4th of this month.

    You say you now receive no newspapers, though before you
    receive this you will no doubt have heard of the glorious
    victory of the Alma, on the 20th.

    The despatches are too large to put into this letter, and,
    moreover, you must get them before you receive this.

    It seems to have been a wonderful affair.

    Menschikoff, whose private papers, carriage, etc., were taken
    by the French, had written to the Emperor to say he could hold
    the position for three weeks at least.

    It was stormed in three hours!

    Poor Wenny (Coke), after all his trouble to be in time, was
    left in charge of the baggage at Varna!

    We had a letter from him, written in the highest spirits; he
    was to have embarked (as he then thought) on the following day.

    Our friends in the Fusilier Guards have been sadly knocked
    about. Chewton is reported as having died since. That report
    is now contradicted, but he is fearfully wounded. He was
    bayonetted on the ground and has eleven wounds.

    Haygarth was lying with his leg broken, and a Russian,
    attempting to blow his head off, shot away the upper part of
    his shoulder.

    He, however, has got as far as Malta on his way home.

    Astley, I hear, has written home for all his friends in
    hospital. He himself is shot through the neck, but says he
    would not have been altogether missed on any account!

    Buckley very badly shot. Eumismore many wounds. Black Dal, but
    slightly wounded in the knee. Hepburn lost an arm. Bulwer hit
    in the head only.

    I believe you know most of these men. You remember Hugh
    Drummond at Woolmer; he is reported to have bagged three
    Russians, who came at him after his horse was shot, with his
    revolvers!

    Burghersh, who brought home the despatches, says that the pluck
    of our troops was perfectly wonderful.

    The only Guardsman killed was Cust: leg carried off by a cannon
    ball. He died after undergoing amputation. As for family news,
    we are all well. I am off to-morrow on my sessions and hope to
    come to you when you arrive to welcome you back all safe.

    Love from all to you and the young ’un.--Ever your most
    affectionate nephew,

    (Signed) AUGUSTUS K. STEPHENSON.


[Sidenote: Kiel, Nov. 9.]

Dressed with masthead flags, and at noon fired a royal salute in
commemoration of the birth of the Prince of Wales.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

Signal to _Princess Royal_ and _Acre_ to “Prepare for sea.”

My vanity may be excused in inserting the following paragraph from a
book published recently by my friend Clarence Paget:--

    At last came the joyful day when we were to return to England.

    We were to hoist Seymour’s flag and take _St. Jean d’ Acre_
    with us. I know not why we were always sent in couples; perhaps
    it may be that we were known by the authorities to be what is
    called “chummy ships,” but we are always in company, and very
    good company she is with her jolly, cheerful skipper, Harry
    Keppel, brave as a lion, gentle as a lamb.

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Rear-Admiral Michael Seymour hoisted his flag on board _Princess Royal_
and exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief, _Acre_ being placed
under his orders.

[Sidenote: Nov. 25.]

Daylight.--Weighed under steam. Exchanged cheers from rigging with
_James Watt_, George Elliott’s ship, which was disapproved of by signal
from Commander-in-Chief, _Princess Royal_ in company.

[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]

Weighed and proceeded under easy steam in wake of flag.

[Sidenote: Dec. 2.]

2 P.M.--Furled sails. Came to at 4.30 in West Port, Christiansund.
Landed and bought in market twelve brace of capercailzie. Country
covered with frozen snow, over which we drove in carriages.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

Being the Sabbath, coals not to be obtained until the afternoon, when
_Princess Royal_ took in some from lighters sent alongside, containing
about fifteen tons each.

[Sidenote: Dec. 4.]

Decks covered with 5 or 6 inches of snow. Weighed and followed
_Princess Royal_.

[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]

Westerly wind and dirty weather. Asked permission, per signal, to stand
in under shelter of Yarmouth. Answer, “Rendezvous, Plymouth,” in case
of parting company. At 7 lost sight of flag.

[Sidenote: Dec. 9.]

6.15.--Came to in the Downs. Landed Baltic pilot, he having been on
board nine months, at fifteen shillings a day, without being of the
slightest use.

[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]

2.30 A.M.--Came to in Plymouth Sound. Found _Princess Royal_, _Cæsar_,
and _Monarch_. Saluted flag of Admiral Sir William Parker, K.G.C.B.

[Sidenote: Dec. 13.]

Steamed into harbour; ship’s company turned over to _Bellona_ hulk.
Ship taken into Keyham Dock.

[Sidenote: Plymouth, Dec. 18.]

Orders to prepare ship for reception of troops, and proceed to the
Crimea. Seeing no other chance I started for London before their
arrival, and was followed by a most kind letter from the First Lord to
dine _en famille_ and so meet his son on Christmas Day.

What could have been more agreeable? But I had to take leave of a dear
shipmate, Fred Horton, of whom the doctors gave a bad account, to
prepare to receive a General and Staff, and embark 1200 troops at Cork
for the Crimea.

[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]

Slipped moorings and proceeded under steam into the Sound.

[Sidenote: Dec. 30.]

Received the following from Admiralty:--

    _December 30, 1854._

    MY DEAR KEPPEL--Make haste or you will be too late for the fun.

    Admiral Lyons writes in high spirits, date 13th inst.

    Admiral Seymour, to whom I have written, will do all that is
    right about cabins for your passengers.

    Lyons is not the man I take him for if he does not find you
    something to occupy you, even if you are not in time to charge
    the barrier across Sevastopol Harbour.--Yours sincerely,

    (Signed) M. F. H. BERKELEY.




CHAPTER LV

THE CRIMEA


PLYMOUTH SOUND.

[Sidenote: 1855. Jan. 1.]

2 P.M.--Slipped moorings. Came to in the Sound. Obliged to close lower
deck ports to prevent watermen pitching parcels on board for the
Crimea. New Year’s dinner with Admiral Sir William Parker, my old Chief
in China.

[Sidenote: Plymouth, Jan. 2.]

Glad to meet again, residing here, Mrs. Keith Stewart; accompanied her
to lunch with Lord Mount Edgcumbe. Dinner with the Charles Edens to
meet my passengers, Generals Barnard and Lord Rokeby.

[Sidenote: Jan. 3.]

Lord George Lennox down to sail to Cork with us. 3 P.M.--Crimean
Generals came alongside in a steamer. Was obliged to leave young
Graham, Birch, and George Wodehouse to follow.

[Sidenote: Cork, Jan. 4.]

Arrived in afternoon at Cove of Cork, saluting flag of Admiral Carrol.
Generals and I dined with him; Miss Carrol managing her father’s house.

Received 645 troops, drafts for different regiments in the Crimea,
consisting of the following:--

    63rd Regt., 51 men, Lieuts. Hunt and Hand.
    30th Regt., 51 men, Capt. Robertson, Lieut. Hill.
    33rd Regt., 97 men, Capt. Ellis, Lieut. Wallis, Ensign Ellis.
    47th Regt., 67 men, Capt. Elgee.
    41st Regt., 109 men, Capt. Bertram, Lieuts. Lambert and Nowlan.
    17th Regt., 122 men, Capt. Colthurst, Lieut. Thompson, Ensigns
        Travis and Disbourne.
    50th Regt., 17 men.
    68th Regt., 17 men.
    55th Regt., 39 men, Lieut. Hannay.
    49th Regt., 67 men, Lieut. Eustace.
    57th Regt., 9 men, Capt. Brown, Lieut. Ashwin.

Not sorry to receive telegram to wait for Graham. So need not sail on
Friday.

[Sidenote: Jan. 5.]

Shifted berth into Fairway. Schetky, late drawing master of Royal Naval
College, breakfasted with me.

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

Got fairly away by 8 A.M., George Lennox leaving with the pilot. We
exchanged binoculars by mistake. My guests, Generals Barnard and Lord
Rokeby, Colonels Warde and Arthur Lowry Cole, A.D.C’s. Wellesley and
Barnard, all good fellows. Lord Rokeby, a soldier of Waterloo, the
cheeriest of all; but he, poor fellow, had lately lost a promising
young and only son. I was admitted to his confidence. Bright and cheery
as he was in company, it was a sad consolation for him to describe in
private the loss he had sustained; outside, no one could have detected
that he had a trouble in the world.

       *       *       *       *       *

It was the depth of winter. On the way out I had made for my Generals
and Colonels canvas bags, impervious to wet or cold, in which they
could lie down with uniforms on....

[Sidenote: Jan. 7.]

People and luggage beginning to shake down into their places. Officers,
determined to be pleased, made no complaints. Among the passengers were
some for whom it was difficult to find a berth. The good Chaplain
“Thomas” spotted one[2] so situated, and ascertaining that he knew not
where to sleep, put him into his, the Chaplain’s cabin, making for
himself a bed under the wardroom mess-table.

[2] Lord Dangan, Coldstream Guards.

[Illustration: _Map--Strait of Gibraltar_]

[Sidenote: Jan. 11.]

Soldiers are naturally fond of lounging about the boom-boats.
Discovered afterwards our cheery Irish recruits had devoured half a ton
of raw turnips that had been sent on board for the sheep.

[Sidenote: Gibraltar, Jan. 12.]

At sunset we were off the entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar. Strong
easterly wind, and the usual inrush of sea; but as it was about our
dinner time, I had sails furled, and left the Master to steer by the
well-lighted Spanish coast. When I came on the poop-deck, shortly
followed by my guests, a bright light, broad on the port bow, made me
inquire of the Master what it was. He informed me it was Tarifa Point.
Having ascertained the bearings, I saw at once that it must be Europa
Point, some twenty miles in advance, and ordered “Starboard the helm.”

Twenty years had elapsed since, when in command of _Childers_ brig, I
had made almost monthly visits to meet the English mail at Gibraltar.
My poor nervous Master, who could not have reckoned on the rush of sea
into the Mediterranean, exclaimed, before my Generals and other guests:
“You forget, sir, that you have on board 1200 men in addition to the
ship’s company.” Ordered him to his cabin under arrest!

What my guests in charge of the 1200 troops must have thought I know
not, but they behaved like the noble fellows they were. I was younger
than most of them, and there must have been many persons on that deck
who can still corroborate what I write. The angle formed in our wake
caused the propelling screw to cut the lead lines, which were also
cut as soon as replaced. However, in a few minutes we had the full
blaze of lights on the Rock itself; the harbour was a mass of shipping.
We could only obtain proper anchorage by passing under the stern of
the largest transport I could find. We had fortunately here about the
most promising of our young Captains, George Grey, in charge of the
dockyard. His perfect arrangements for coaling made the work easy.

[Sidenote: Jan. 13.]

Self and party dined with the Governor, Sir Robert Gardiner.

[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]

After church visited Pagets; Mrs. Paget, of the charming Williams
family, having just returned. Early dinner with George Grey. 320 tons
of coal on board. Made another start at 11 P.M.

[Sidenote: Jan. 15.]

The General harangued the troops, while I pitched into sundry
delinquents: effects of coaling!

[Sidenote: Malta, Jan. 19.]

At 4 A.M. lights were reported. We entered Malta Harbour at 12.30.
Steamed in and secured to a buoy.

Commenced coaling, watering, etc. Met H.R.H. The Duke of Cambridge.
The same kind manner, but looking reduced and low in spirits. He
seemed unprepared for the kind and hearty reception that awaited him
on his return home. Put up at Durnford’s Hotel. Saw many old friends:
Pocklington, Fred Arkwright, and others. Stores, horses, cases, etc.,
sent on board without mercy. Dined with Admiral Houston Stewart.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

5 P.M.--Slipped from buoy--steamed and made sail.

[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]

Entered the Dardanelles.

[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]

At daylight found ourselves in the Sea of Marmora. Kept the northern
coast to avoid current. 10 A.M.--Came to in the entrance to the
Golden Horn, off that wonderful city, Constantinople.

[Illustration: _Map--The Bosporus_]

[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]

Found Rear-Admiral Boxer the senior officer. Frederick Grey, as
Commodore, ready to relieve him. Visited the hospital at Scutari, and
had an interview with Miss Nightingale. Put up at Misseri’s Hotel.
Dined at the Embassy, meeting there Mrs. Ives and Miss Stanley.

[Sidenote: Jan. 27.]

After breakfast joined Lady Stratford de Redcliffe’s party, and visited
bazaars, etc., on Constantinople side. Interview and long chat with
Mrs. Ives, Emma Maynard that was. Dined at Embassy in thin boots; a
filthy walk back to hotel.

[Illustration: St. Jean d’ Acre _off Balaclava_.]

[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]

Weighed at 8 A.M., having slept on shore.

Cheered _Queen_ and _Vengeance_ on passing them in Beicos Bay.
10.--Entered the Black Sea. Two more friends added to my mess in Hugh
Drummond of Fusilier Guards, and Colonel Norcott of Rifles.

[Sidenote: Jan. 29.]

Wardroom officers gave a dinner to our Generals and staff. Sat down
sixty-three: some speeches made and much harmony.

[Sidenote: Jan. 30.]

1 A.M.--Made the Khersonesia Light. 2.--Came to between the _Algiers_
and _Agamemnon_, the latter flying the flag of Sir Edmund Lyons, off
Sevastopol Harbour. Went on board; found Admiral in bed. At 8, Generals
and self breakfasted with him, and then shifted round to Balaclava.

[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]

[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]

Generals disembarked this morning. I also landed, and picked up Wenny
Coke, who had a bad cold. Put him on our sick list. The Generals
returned on board to dinner. I had brought some Southdown sheep,
knowing how welcome they would be. After breakfast guests off to their
respective posts. On landing near the head of the harbour, found the
snow a foot deep, with the exception of the foot-trodden paths.

The Royal Marines occupied the lower ground. To the north, above them,
were the Guards, and on higher land were the 93rd Highlanders. I was
looking for Sir Colin Campbell.

The first person I came up with was a long soldier, without coat or
jacket, braces hanging down his back, carrying a bucket of water in one
hand, and lugging a goat up with the other. He accosted me with, “How
are you, Keppel?” I replied, “All right, thanks,” and passed on. On
arriving at the Guards’ ground, the first person I saw standing at his
tent door was friend Mark Wood. While chatting, the soldier with braces
down passed. I asked, “Who is that soldier? he seems to know me.” Wood
said, “Of course he does; that is Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar.”

I found Sir Colin Campbell on the high ground, his jacket flying open
as if it were summer. Our meeting was cordial. I asked him whether
he would have his Southdown cut up, or whole. He preferred it home
fashion, with the saddle.

I got him to tell me whether it was true he had refused to form square
to resist the Russian Cavalry at Balaclava. He said a double line of
Highlanders was enough, and if I did not mind the snow he would show me
the Russian horses. Seeing the carcases lying in the snow, I remarked I
was not aware that the Russians docked their horses so close; he said
it was done by the French, who took them to make bouillon soup.

When I got down I was anxious to write my name in Lord Raglan’s book,
and inquired my way to headquarters. A soldier informed me that at the
next bend on the right I should find “a dead horse and a nasty stink on
the left. The same all the way up.” As “all the way up” was four miles,
I preferred returning to the ship.

[Illustration: “_All the way up._”]

[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]

I was flattered to find my Generals preferred sleeping on board;
however, hearing heavy firing in the night, they landed prepared to
fight. Wenny Coke was much amused when he found the Generals went off
so suddenly; he said, if they had only awoke him he could have informed
them the same thing happened every night. Was struck yesterday with the
cheeriness of officers and men. Visited the post-office; observed in
one corner an ominous-looking bag, which appeared full, marked “Dead.”

The troops, both officers and men, form a motley mixture. It is
difficult to recognise any one by his dress. They have now, when too
late, warm clothing: fur caps, sheep-skin coats, and brown boots.

[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]

Sharp frost, with cold cutting wind, it having snowed hard during the
night. Rokeby in his canvas bag, his moustache frozen white. Bromley,
Colonel Carlton, Sir James Dunlop and nephew, Henry Hill, on board
to dine and sleep. Landed Henry with stock of brandy, poultry, and
tongue. Thermometer below 19°.

[Sidenote: Feb. 4.]

Carlton and Bromley landed after breakfast, Dunlop and Wenny remaining.
Weighed in afternoon. Anchored off Sevastopol.

[Sidenote: The Guards’ Camp.]

While the ship was at Balaclava I met on shore no end of old friends.
In the Guards’ camp, although they, what was left of them, were bright
and cheery, I avoided inquiring about the many I missed.

I dined quietly one afternoon with my kinsman, Bob Lindsay, but it was
difficult to draw from him what his thoughts and feelings were on the
occasion when he so gallantly carried the Guards’ colours at the Alma.

There was Billy Russell, ever bright and cheery, but never seemed
inclined to be pumped as to what he had seen and knew.

I had repeated gallops with one or other of the Inkerman heroes.
When that ride was proposed I never admitted I had been over the
field before, and delighted to hear over and over again answers to my
questions. The most melancholy spectacle was the wretched condition of
the horses, ten and twelve being harnessed to an ammunition waggon that
on other occasions would be drawn by four.

The painful subject everywhere was the thinned ranks of infantry
regiments. The Guards were reduced from 4100 to 500. Poor Lord Rokeby
tried to hide his tears when he saw the remnant of the Brigade. It will
take from fifteen to twenty years to make them what they were a year
ago.

After a while no one knew the whole country better than Lord Rokeby.
I enjoyed my rides with him; always as fast as his good mounts could
carry us.

The barrier of sunken ships across the harbour of Sevastopol I do
not think much of, but there is a mysterious-looking line about two
cables’ length inside the sunken ships that I cannot make out, leading
about two-thirds of the way across. Carlton and Bromley landed after
breakfast, Dunlop and Wenny Coke remaining. Up screw, weighed in
afternoon, and worked round to anchorage off Kamiesch Bay.

[Sidenote: Kamiesch, Feb. 5.]

Accompanied Admiral Sir Edmund Lyons on horseback to Lord Raglan’s
headquarters. Very interesting conversation by the way, giving me a
clear insight into state of things.

[Sidenote: Feb. 6.]

_Princess Royal_, Captain Lord Clarence Paget, arrived, bringing
General Sir Harry Jones. Received a letter from Lady Wilmot announcing
sad death of my poor Fred Wilmot Horton. Too down to dine with Admiral.

[Sidenote: Feb. 7.]

Accompanied Admiral in _Terrible_ to see entrance to the harbour. Ugly
and formidable-looking batteries. Barriers of sunken ships’ bars,
spars, and cables across; some tempting-looking liners inside. Dined
with Sir Edmund. Right man in right place.

[Sidenote: Feb. 8.]

George Goldsmith of _Sidon_, 22, paddle wheel, came to a quiet dinner.

[Sidenote: Feb. 9.]

Thompson to dinner; he had visited the muddy camp. More snow falling.

[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]

Admiral Houston Stewart arrived from Malta in _Spiteful_. Captain Ryder
and young Yorke to dinner.

[Sidenote: Feb. 12.]

The enemy keeping pace with us in forming defences against our increase
of batteries, likewise in their reinforcements of supplies and troops.
Sevastopol likely to hold out until completely invested. Dined with
Commander-in-Chief. Breeze blowing up, stopped the night.

[Sidenote: Feb. 14.]

Telegraph by Admiral; change of Ministry.

Lord Palmerston, Premier, and Sir James Graham still at Admiralty,
which I like.

[Sidenote: Feb. 16.]

Visited our worthy Chief. Flag shifted to the _Royal Albert_.

[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]

Charlie Talbot to dine, also Oldfield from the trenches, and Commander
Willie Partridge.

[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]

Ship looking clear and clean; herself again. Being near, commenced
building a stable: a weakness I have long had.

[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]

Thermometer 7 degrees below freezing. French ship on shore, must go
to pieces. (Which she did with a cargo of horses and bullocks. Seven
horses saved out of forty. No human lives lost.)

[Illustration: _How the Guards looked._]

[Sidenote: Feb. 23.]

Mail in. F. Johnson promoted. Good fellow--a loss to us.

[Sidenote: Feb. 24.]

Carpenters while on shore erecting stables, discovered a small French
town, which smelt so strongly of brandy that my building was delayed.

[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]

Dined with the Admiral. _Rodney_ laid up near, crew had landed with
Naval Brigade, she having no steam power.

[Sidenote: Feb. 27.]

Walk on shore with Talbot. Stable progressing.

Sad quantity of dead horses about. Of a fresh heap of eighteen, several
appeared in good condition. Dined with Talbot. The horses were French.

[Sidenote: Feb. 28.]

Mail in during the night. Harry Stephenson has entered the navy, his
brother Sussex in the Fusilier Guards.

[Sidenote: Mar. 1.]

Another “no communication” day. My company, young Stanley Graham,
recovering from chickenpox.

[Sidenote: Mar. 2.]

Went in with portmanteau to dine with Admiral. Put up by Mends.

[Sidenote: Mar. 3.]

After breakfast went to see Jack Lyons in _Miranda_, and then outside
to George Goldsmith, _Sidon_; with him paid an interesting visit to
the extreme left of the French lines and into the ruins of Khersonese.
Dined with Admiral and slept on board.

[Sidenote: Mar. 4.]

Visit from George Broke of _Gladiator_, also George Goldsmith. Webb
from _Australia_ and Dalyell.

[Sidenote: Mar. 5.]

Curious to see the temporary towns and shops established by the French.

[Sidenote: Mar. 6.]

On going on board to dine with Admiral, heard of the Emperor of
Russia’s death. On returning communicated same to Charlie Talbot and
Clarence Paget. Curious the unsettled state of mind people are in,
through the Czar’s death. What strange surmises as to the future.

[Sidenote: Mar. 8.]

Early arrival of mail. News anything but cheery. Sir James Graham no
longer First Lord. Kind letter from him. Bread riots. No Government.
Well-earned good service pension to Milne.

[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]

Accompanied Admiral Houston Stewart in _Beagle_ steamer to Balaklava.
Found guards quartered close. Wenny Coke, Robert Lindsay, and other
friends dined with Lord Rokeby. Put up on board _Diamond_ with Peel.
Great improvements in Balaklava. Harbour crowded. Dangerous quantity of
powder afloat.

[Sidenote: Mar. 10.]

Peel and I, mounted by Sir Colin Campbell, rode to St. George’s
Monastery. Beautiful scenery, ditto weather. Peace and quiet. Strange
contrast with encampments close by.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

Omar Pasha arrived in _Valourous_. Cheered him in passing.

[Sidenote: Mar. 13.]

Maitland Lennox and his artillery brother to dine and stay the day on
board.

[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]

Outside squadron dining with Houston-Stewart. Jolly!

[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]

Brisk exchange of shots between the front and Russians. No results.
Dined with Clarence Paget.

[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]

Dined with Commander-in-Chief. Death of the Russian Admiral Istoma, one
of the perpetrators of the Sinope tragedy.

[Sidenote: Mar. 21.]

A man died this morning from a virulent attack of smallpox. Dined with
Commander-in-Chief, having previously taken Dalrymple Hay a walk.

[Sidenote: Off Sevastopol, Mar. 22.]

Dined with Pasley on board _Agamemnon_: we had been messmates when I
was a mid in _Tweed_. Play on board _Algiers_, C. Talbot. Acting good.
Heavy firing. Town apparently on fire.

[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]

General Barnard having sent a horse, rode to the front. After luncheon
walked into the trenches to see the effect of last night’s attack on
our lines.

[Sidenote: Camp, Mar. 24.]

Flag of truce hoisted at noon for two hours to enable both sides to
bury their dead. Extraordinary sight. Russians, French, and English
mixed, looking for their respective dead. 500 corpses lying about.
Walked at night with friend General Charles Windham.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Attended divine service in the open air. 4th Division of the army
square formed. Parson with moustache! Ride with General Barnard to
the site of the charge at Inkerman. Dined with the general, meeting
Charles Windham, who agrees with me about employing the ships to
draw fire off the trenches. Interesting view of the town, also the
fortifications recently made by the Russians.

[Sidenote: Mar. 26.]

Attended races of 3rd Division. Curious and novel sight: soldiers and
sailors only. Put up on board _Gladiator_, Captain Broke, now Sir
George, and son of the famous _Shannon_ and _Chesapeke_ hero.

[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]

Returned on board after inspecting stables and my new old pony. Walk
with Thompson: had to bob to a Russian shell, my gold lace cap having,
they said, attracted attention. Two 10½-inch Russian shells not
exploded, had them conveyed on board.

Pasley, M‘Cleverty, and Elphinstone to dine.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]

Another case of smallpox. Admiral suggested our getting under weigh, by
way of cutting off communication. Thought it advisable to have mids and
youngsters vaccinated; having the necessary lymph on board, they were
ordered to my cabin. Some, seeing the doctor’s preparations, rather
hesitated, on which I requested the surgeon to perform on me first,
when all went on smoothly.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

Weighed at daylight, running past the entrance of the harbour, and
came to off Eupatoria. Hoisted quarantine flag. George Hastings came
alongside. Omar Pasha’s army is encamped in the town.




[Illustration: _Omar Pasha’s Arab._]

CHAPTER LVI

_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_


[Sidenote: 1855. Eupatoria, April 3.]

Landed yesterday and paid a visit to the Turkish Admiral and Omar
Pasha. He is a fine-looking man. It is astonishing the excellent
earthworks his army have thrown up round Eupatoria during the last
fortnight. The place is now secure against surprise or assault. Omar
mounted me on his favourite charger, an Arab said to be very valuable.
Never saw so beautiful an animal. Rode with a party and visited the
Turkish advanced cavalry picquets.

The country round Eupatoria is a vast open plain, with here and there
hillocks supposed to be of Roman construction. On these the advanced
Turkish picquets were stationed in pairs. A short distance beyond them
were the advanced Russian picquets, looking warlike. Behind them again
were different squadrons of cavalry, all ready mounted for work. But on
Omar’s charger I was safe. He has more than 45,000 men, 7000 of which
are cavalry and artillery. I cannot say when I have had so interesting
a day.

Had party on board to dine. Colonel Simmonds, Ogilvie, and Commanders
present. Weighed at midnight. Nineteen cases of smallpox. Took
Surgeon with me to the Admiral, and got permission to land on a small
uninhabited island and build huts.

[Sidenote: April 4.]

Weighed at daylight; went on shore at Balaklava to get huts from
Admiral Boxer, who had not turned out. Boxer was a salt of the old
school. He gave me the order for the houses, and advised me to go on
shore and rouse up the soldiers in charge, and he would follow. On
my remarking that he had not breakfasted, he replied--“I am an old
first lieutenant, and always breakfasts with me hat under the table.”
Returned to Kazatch, selected ground, marked out sites, and had two
houses up by sunset. Yellow flags hoisted and regular lazaretto
established.

[Sidenote: April 5.]

Thirty-nine cases of smallpox. Hospital establishment creditable to the
designer. Patients doing well. Landed band in afternoon to cheer them.
At suggestion of surgeon, walked through my newly erected hospital;
airy and clean. The smallpox room was a trial. Having obtained the
names, I endeavoured to say something consoling to each. Their heads
were swollen into the shape and appearance of huge plum-puddings: eyes
closed--their own mothers could not have recognised them. Prompted by
the doctor, I was enabled to say something cheery to each and could see
by a slight move of their heads that it gave pleasure.

[Sidenote: April 6.]

Building huts, making wells and wards about the hospital--an amusement!

[Sidenote: April 11.]

_Banshee_ arrived with mail, little Harry on board; just in time to see
the bombardment.

[Sidenote: Letter to H.F.S. April 13.]

The nearest point to us is the entrance left of the French
entrenchment, abutting on the sea. This entrenchment and battery being
“end on,” we see the Frenchmen load and fire and crouch down. We see
the Russians doing the same. We easily trace the whole course of the
shells, see them burst, sometimes throwing heaps of earth and dirt over
the men as they throw themselves down when they see or hear the missive
coming.

Higher up in the landscape we see the famous Round Tower and the
Mamelon (this last the one the French never ought to have allowed
the Russians to take), keeping up a desperate fire on Gordon’s and
Chapman’s batteries, which is returned with interest; then again,
further still, are ours and the French batteries blazing away on the
Russian fort, while they in the background are firing from numerous
newly-raised batteries on the Inkerman heights to the north of the
Khersonese.

When it is calm or the wind off the land, the concussion from the
reports of the guns shakes the ship. This is kept up night and day, at
least it has been so for the last four days, and will go on.

We cannot well make out the amount of damage done to the Russian
batteries, but the fire from them gets very slack towards the
afternoon, and sometimes is silenced altogether; but they manage to
repair damages in the dark, and commence in the morning much the
same. Nearer to us we have seen the Frenchmen’s battery, considerably
damaged, but they replace their gabions and sand-bags, and go at it
again. In fact, judging from the supply of shot and shell in rear of
his battery, the enemy means to keep the ball going for some time.

We get occasional accounts from the camp. Up to yesterday the
bluejackets appear to have suffered most. Two lieutenants, Twyford
and Douglas, killed. Captain Lord John Hay wounded, jaw broken, teeth
knocked out and throat cut by the fragment of a shell: doing well
though, and wishes to return to the trenches. Seventy-six seamen _hors
de combat_, and Lord Raglan asking for more. They are decidedly the
best shots, but take no care of themselves.

I am sorry the town of Sevastopol shows as yet little or no symptoms
of damage: on the top of one of their sea batteries, I can see ladies
admiring, as we suppose, our Fleet. While all this is going on on shore
we (French and English ships) form a long and imposing line across the
harbour. Our daily routine, muster, bands playing; everything going on
as if we were in Plymouth Sound or at Spithead.

[Sidenote: Journal.]

Visited hospital, all patients except one doing well. Pasley and Talbot
to dine. Paget and Drummond went into the harbour after dark in the
_Valourous_, and caused a slight diversion by opening fire on the forts.

[Sidenote: April 14.]

With Admiral to visit Lord Raglan: unusual on mail departure days.

[Sidenote: April 15.]

Until the place is invested cannot see use of the present expenditure
of ammunition.

About this time Clarence Paget conceived the idea of placing two lights
on shore in such a position that, by bringing them in one, we might
on the darkest nights approach the batteries and deliver our fire in
succession; in the hope that the enemy, not being able to see the
ships, would fire at random and probably miss us, whereas we, knowing
exactly the distance and direction, could point our guns with unerring
aim. Sir Edmund Lyons, as stated by Paget, brightened on the occasion.
Paget with his master had sounded the line the ships had to take. I
expected great things of my _Jenny d’ Acre_ when her turn should come.

[Illustration: _Headquarters._]

This was _Gladiator’s_ turn for night attack on batteries, and as
it would be my “_Jenny d’ Acre’s_” turn next, I got friend Broke to
take me on board a little after midnight. All lights out, the paddles
just turning noiselessly. I was on the paddle-box when a flash from
the shore and the approach of a burning fuse showed how correctly the
Russians had calculated the spot. The master fell just before me, and
the shell exploded over the opposite box, while a third person fell
from the bridge. On inquiry I found that no one was hurt. The master
from the _Princess Royal_ was on the bridge and had thrown himself
down. The officer on the opposite bridge had done likewise. The young
man who fell off the bridge had taken his tea a little too strong, and
lost his balance; no harm done.

[Sidenote: April 17.]

Fresh case of smallpox, ditto breaking out in _Royal Albert_, sent
their cases to our new hospital. With permission of Admiral, shifted
berth to off Kazatch, to finish hospital. Landed strong party. Dined
with Houston-Stewart.

[Sidenote: April 21.]

Oldfield in from trenches. Respite from firing. Things much the same as
when trenches opened first.

[Sidenote: April 22.]

Visit from Inspector of Hospitals, Dr. Deas.

[Sidenote: April 23.]

Order from Commander-in-Chief to hoist quarantine flag, and consider
ourselves in strict quarantine.

[Sidenote: April 24.]

Lord Rokeby and Baillie having come down, met them at stables with
luncheon. Great farce this quarantine!

[Sidenote: May 2.]

Invited to meet Admiral on shore. Plan for an attack on Kertch with
12,000 French and 3000 English discussed. No work, though, for these
big ships. _Alma_ troopship arrived. Friend John Astley, recovered from
his wound in the neck at Alma, rejoined Fusilier Guards.

[Sidenote: May 3.]

Interruption in hospital works. General signal for captains and
ordinary sailing: rendezvous and places of landing issued. Things
looking more like business. Weighed at 8 P.M., and steered towards
Odessa, altering course for eastward after dark.

[Sidenote: May 4.]

Early morning found Fleet enveloped in fog. Marines preparing to land.
Fog dispelled by heat of sun. Signal, to cook three days’ provisions.
Weather fine, all hands full of hope and expectation. As we drew near,
general signal for “Captains to repair on board flag.” Disappointment
great when it was announced that the expedition was at an end. French
Admiral being recalled by Canrobert.

[Sidenote: Kertch, May 5.]

Before we turned our sterns on Kertch, Lord Lyons told me that he
had tried to persuade General Brown, who commanded our troops, to go
on with the forces _we_ had to Kertch. But the strict disciplinarian
declined. Had he consented, on the appearance of our top-gallant yards
above the horizon, the Kertch forts, which had had been prepared a
month previously, would have been blown up, the war ended, and millions
saved to the country.

[Sidenote: Kazatch Bay, May 6.]

Ran ahead of Fleet and came to before 8, off Kazatch Bay. Cutter
capsized in sailing on shore. Pilkington in her. No one drowned. Rode
“Bashi” up to headquarters. Returned with Admirals. Blowing fresh, so
did not dine with them.

[Sidenote: May 8.]

Arthur Williams came on board, having arrived in _Himalaya_ from India
with his charming wife. All smallpox cases being in hospital, could
put my friends up on board. Admiral Houston-Stewart to call upon Mrs.
Williams.

[Sidenote: May 9.]

Williams, Colville, and Foley down from camp to dine. Friends Talbot,
Horton, and others to dinner. Found Arthur Taylor had called on board,
having arrived in charge of artillery in cargo transport.

[Sidenote: May 12.]

Dined with Admiral H. Stewart to meet Commander-in-Chief. Foley and
Colville coming down from camp.

[Sidenote: May 13.]

Held survey on and invalided Captain Sir George Broke. After divine
service, sent friends in launch and took Mrs. Ives in gig to Streletska
Bay; landed and visited French trenches and left attack. Dined in
Wardroom.

[Sidenote: May 14.]

Dined with Pasley. Received pictures of Nelson and Lyons. Foley and
Colville took their departure for camp in the afternoon.

[Sidenote: May 15.]

Dined with Pasley--best cook in the Fleet.

[Sidenote: May 16.]

Friends from camp--Wenny Coke, Bob Lindsay, Thynne of Rifles, Baillie,
and Fraser, the Master of Lovat, to dinner. Jolly party, having killed
the last of my Southdowns. Baillie and Fraser returning at night.

[Sidenote: May 17.]

Commander-in-Chief promising to dine, prepared accordingly. Admiral
Stewart sending me turtle soup and fish. Lord Rokeby down too in time
from camp. Baillie. Seventeen to, for these times, a first-rate dinner.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

Dined with Commander-in-Chief, to meet Mrs. F. Grey.

[Sidenote: May 20.]

With Admirals to visit by water, in _Telegraph_ steamer, Prince
Woronzoff’s place Onianda Aloupka, the Emperor’s Palace, and village
of Yalta. Mrs. F. Grey, Mrs. and Miss Stewart, Lady George Paget, Lord
Burgesh, Rose, and others, an agreeable party. Admiral, however, was
obliged to go to headquarters. Found _Enchantress_ yacht, Sir Thomas
Whichcote, with Freke and George Bentick on board; offered to tow him
to Kertch! Another expedition decided on.

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Dined with Wardroom officers to celebrate two years in commission.

[Sidenote: May 22.]

Called on board _York Herald_, Captain Furber, meeting Mrs. Pentland,
and Miss Furber.

[Illustration: _Map of Crimea._]




CHAPTER LVII

SECOND EXPEDITION TO KERTCH


[Sidenote: 1855. May 22.]

I thought this would be a pleasant trip for my yacht friends in the
_Enchantress_, and advised Whichcote to be prepared after dark to pick
up the end of a hawser with as little noise as possible, which he would
find over the stern of the _St. Jean d’ Acre_, and not cast off until
he heard from me; and gave _Stella_ the option of doing likewise.

At 8.10 P.M. we were moving in line as slowly as the screw would allow,
when we perceived the P. & O. steamer _Colombo_, carrying troops, on
starboard bow, creeping out from one of the small inlets, so near that
unless she at once stopped she must foul us.

We hailed without effect. We could not stop without fouling next
astern: a musket was fired. _Colombo_ stopped, but too late. A crash,
and I saw a twelve-foot figurehead drop with a loud splash into the
water. My tows astern, not injured. We had quietly embarked 600 Turkish
troops.

[Sidenote: Theodosia, May 23.]

Dense fog during the night. Fleet assembled during the day, and I had
time to seek the _Colombo_, whose captain found his way on board the
_Acre_. Something was wrong with the machinery; he had been unable to
stop his ship in time to save her figurehead. The Crimea is to Russia
what the Isle of Wight might be to England.

[Sidenote: Kertch, May 24.]

Arrived at Kertch. Army landed during the afternoon and bivouacked on
the beach. _Princess Royal_ and _St. Jean d’ Acre_ had similar cargoes
of Turkish troops, which we landed without either trouble or complaint.
The Russians blew up their magazine, set fire to their stores, ships,
etc.

A large open space appeared to be covered with tumuli, varying in
size, shaped like the roofs of barns, from which you could not see far
without mounting to the top, as Clarence Paget and I did, selecting the
highest.

From the top, not more than three miles distant, we saw the Russians
evacuating the Citadel. A battery of artillery faced the spot where our
troops had landed. In rear of the guns, the Russians, bag and baggage,
were retreating.

We returned to the landing-place, and had to pass through a regiment of
French Rifles enjoying a rest and sleep in the sun. Paget, who spoke
French, told the French officer commanding that there were a thousand
Russian troops passing within three miles of him. The officer appeared
not to credit the statement, whereupon Paget put his glass into his
hand and asked him to mount the nearest tumulus and see for himself.

The officer then drew his sword, calling out, “Aux armes,” in which he
was joined by the whole regiment. A mile of fishermen’s nets were soon
in a blaze. Later in the afternoon I took young Stephenson, when we
mounted on one of these tumuli and noticed a Russian galloping towards
us.

The troops of the expedition were now all alive and had formed across
the small peninsula in open skirmishing order, and were advancing to
capture the small garrison which Paget and I had seen pass out towards
Arabat four hours previously. The Russian was unaware of the danger he
was galloping into; he pulled up, but, not understanding us, galloped
on. It was now time for us to retreat within our own lines. The
Russian, too, who had seen our skirmishers, was in full retreat.

[Sidenote: Kertch, May 25.]

The next day I went into Kertch in a steamer with Sir Edmund Lyons and
party, and had no difficulty in recognising our Russian friend owner of
the fishing nets, as well as other property. In the afternoon joined
Paget in a foraging party. Took thirty-five bullocks for the Fleet, and
milch cows for ourselves.

[Sidenote: May 27.]

Dundas, Turner, and Peck on board to church. Dined on board
_Enchantress_.

[Sidenote: May 29.]

Remained on board, admiring Brierly’s Baltic sketches. Dined with
Houston-Stewart.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

Landed abreast of ship and got some green gooseberries, big enough for
a tart. Dined with Pasley on board _Agamemnon_.

[Sidenote: May 31.]

Admiral made signal for opportunity to go to Kertch and Yenkali.
Visited Sir George Brown and the camp. On return found news from Sea of
Azov of smart doings there by squadron. Dined with Commander-in-Chief.

[Sidenote: June 1.]

Launches off at daylight to join force in Sea of Azov. Took cruise in
_Stella_ yacht with Frankland. Arrival of 3000 troops from Balaclava.
Farewell dinner to Whichcote and party on board _Enchantress_.

[Sidenote: June 2.]

Lieutenant H.S.H. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe joined. Party to dinner,
Pasley, Paget, Talbot, Prince Victor, Frankland from _Stella_, and
Jackson.

[Sidenote: June 3.]

Dined self and youngsters, Prince Victor, Graham, Stephenson, and
Campbell, with Admiral Houston-Stewart.

[Sidenote: June 4.]

A cruise with Frankland and Jackson in _Stella_ to Yenkali; council of
war being held there. Spoony decision not to go to Anapa: younger blood
required in council.

[Sidenote: June 5.]

Dined with Commander-in-Chief to meet the French and Turkish Admirals.

[Sidenote: June 6.]

News of energetic proceedings in the Sea of Azov; proof of the
advantage of employing young men.

[Sidenote: June 7.]

Cruise in _Stella_. Landed on sandy spit, Asiatic side; tried to stalk
a Cossack. Picked up some sea-birds eggs much the same as plovers.
Signal from flag, “Obstacles removed and free to be attacked.”

[Sidenote: June 9.]

Mamelon taken by the French. Kertch Government buildings on fire. War,
a terrible thing!

[Sidenote: June 11.]

Accompanied Commander-in-Chief on farewell visit to Kertch. Dined with
him; got permission to go in _Stella_ to Anapa. Took Prince Victor, and
weighed before turning in.

[Sidenote: June 12.]

Arrived off Anapa by breakfast time. Place in ruins; picturesque
Circassians moving about.

[Sidenote: June 13.]

After breakfast returned to Kertch Straits. Not sorry to find our
allies had already started.

[Sidenote: June 14.]

Fleet weighed at daylight to visit the deserted Anapa; remained a
couple of hours there. Ice the only thing worth bringing away. 8
P.M.--Picked up _Stella_ and took her in tow.

[Sidenote: June 15.]

In running in, ship grounded off Sevastopol. Not my fault this time!
Got off, too, without damage.

[Sidenote: June 16.]

Brierly mounted on “Bashi,” self on “Princess,” rode up to camp. Dined
with Admiral Houston-Stewart after hot ride to headquarters. Champagne
iced.

[Sidenote: June 17.]

All in high force at the idea of entering Sevastopol to-morrow.

[Sidenote: Off Sevastopol, June 18.]

Got under weigh at 2.30 A.M. Strongly impressed that this would be the
anniversary of another glorious victory. But it was not to be. The
French attack on the Malakoff and the English on the Redan repulsed
with loss. Sad! Sad! _We_ cruising off the harbour.

There was no particular order of sailing. _St. Jean d’ Acre_ drifted
near enough to tempt a fire from the northern entrance to the harbour,
and for us to see our troops retreat from the Redan!

[Sidenote: June 19.]

Landed in Italiska Bay, and rode part of the way to headquarters with
Maitland Lennox; returned in time for Admiral Houston-Stewart’s dinner
to meet Commander-in-Chief.

[Sidenote: June 20.]

Brierly back from camp, and with him William Colville to stay a few
days.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

On examination of mids, passed three: young Graham first class.

[Sidenote: June 23.]

Preparation by Quartermaster John Shepherd to destroy, alone, a Russian
three-decker. Called with Clarence Paget on newly-made French Admirals.
On return found St. George Foley from camp, attached to General
Pellissier.

[Sidenote: June 24.]

Took John Shepherd to Admiral. Landed St. George Foley at Streletska.
Received General Codrington on board _Acre_. He with self and friends
dined in Wardroom.

[Sidenote: June 25.]

Arthur Williams and his charming wife on board, he returning to camp
after dinner.

[Sidenote: June 27.]

Firing from batteries slack. Colonel Campbell and Colonel Pereira of
90th. Phipps and Kingston to dinner.

[Sidenote: June 29.]

Telegraphic signal announcing the sad intelligence of Lord Raglan’s
death. A leader not to be replaced. Friend Lord Mark Kerr arrived at
Balaclava from Gibraltar in command of 13th Regiment.




CHAPTER LVIII

NAVAL BRIGADE


[Sidenote: 1855. July 3.]

A report going that George King, commanding _Rodney_, 74, whose crew,
she having no steam power, had been landed with the Naval Brigade, was
about to invalid. It occurred to me that nothing could be done afloat
with a dual command, and that if George King would, with Admiral’s
approval, exchange ships, I might stand a chance of seeing more service
on shore than afloat. Mine was a selfish idea. If ever a man was proud
of, and happy in, his ship it was myself.

Consulted my kind friend Admiral Sir Edmund Lyons, who required time to
consider. My brother officers decidedly disapproved. Dined early with
Houston-Stewart to attend later the embarkation of the remains of Lord
Raglan, deeply lamented, on board the _Caradoc_, Commander Derriman. It
was an imposing but sad spectacle.

The Admiral having approved of the exchange, allowed _Acre_ to be
shifted into Kazatch Bay. Now it was settled, a sinking of the heart
came on at the idea of removing myself from the good fellows with whom
I had been serving.

[Sidenote: July 7.]

I had promised Lady Churston, Sir Robert Newman’s sister, to remove his
remains from “a green field through which ran a small stream by the
stump of a tree.”

This was my only description. To Cathcart’s Hill, however, I had sent
a party from the _Rodney_, early, with the necessary implements to
work through granite, and when about it to make a grave large enough
to hold two. It took me hours to find the place. At last I examined a
space occupied by 3000 Turkish soldiers without a particle of green on
it. Stumps of two small trees, a quarter of a mile apart, caused me to
think they could not now be standing unless fed by water.

We had not far to dig. I had prepared a coffin large enough to hold
that in which poor Newman might have been buried. But, alas! we found
only bones, rats had been at work. The only thing that made me believe
I had the right remains was a pair of brown silk socks. All we could
collect was carefully arranged, and the coffin screwed down: the Union
Jack spread over it.

[Sidenote: July 9.]

Rode to the artillery camp at Balaklava, and obtained from the officer
in charge a corporal and a six-horse limber waggon, on which the coffin
was placed.

With my smart corporal we rode through the camp on our five or six
mile journey. Among others we met Honourable William Colville of Rifle
Brigade; he was a good draughtsman, and kindly dismounted, taking from
his sabretasche pencil and paper, and made a sketch of this cavalcade
for me to send to Newman’s sister.

[Illustration: _Sketch by Col. Hon. W. Colville._

_Jack, to newly-arrived subaltern, “Sorry I can’t obleege you with a
horse, but I have a quiet dromedary I can sell you.”_]

[Sidenote: July 10.]

After breakfast read commission on board _Rodney_, King reading his on
board _St. Jean d’ Acre_. Sad day for me. In the evening escorted Mrs.
Williams on board _Europa_ for passage to Scutari. Dined with Charlie
Talbot on board _Algiers_.

[Sidenote: July 11.]

Early dinner in Wardroom. Pretended to be going to _Rodney_, and so
avoided taking leave of my good fellows. Young Harry Stephenson and
Thompson transferred to _Rodney_.

[Sidenote: July 12.]

Dined with General Barnard, who had just been appointed Chief of Staff.

[Sidenote: July 13.]

Dined with General Simpson, now Commander-in-Chief, and reminded him
of our meeting at his mess when he commanded the 29th at Mauritius in
1829, I then a mid of the _Tweed_.

[Sidenote: Letter to M. S. July 14.]

Find our Jacks queer fellows; they deal in horses or anything else,
and as soon as they come out of the trenches they are all over the
soldiers’ camps, doing work for the officers, repairing tents and that
sort of thing, receiving part payment in grog, and then share it with
the first “soger” they meet.

I avoid too many restrictions, as long as men appear at the 10 A.M.
muster, properly dressed, with their arms cleaned and correct, with
correct numbers of the men and battery they have to relieve. They are
then dismissed, and find their own way by trenches or over the open. In
a body they are pretty sure to draw the enemy’s fire.

[Sidenote: In Camp, July.]

In our camp we are tolerably comfortable. My tent is pitched on a
patch of ground on the edge of a hill. There is a long open avenue in
front, on either side are the tents of the officers and seamen, which
they decorate in the most fantastic way. All sorts of devices for
weathercocks, etc. The shells that annoy us most are those that burst
in the air. We are very close to one another in some places, but I
expect we shall soon shut the Russians up, as they fire very wild when
fired at; our fellows are as steady as ever; the more casualties, the
more jokes are cracked!

In front of our batteries, between us and the Redan and Malakoff
Towers, are the trenches, and the Quarries, formerly a Russian
position--taken by us before Inkerman, at present held by the guards
and other troops. While no particular bombardment is going on, our
orders are, to watch the enemy’s batteries, and only fire on them
when they fire on our advanced parties in the trenches, so that the
soldiers are, in a measure, partly under our protection. In this way
we get some pretty shooting. A shell from the Redan bursts over our
soldiers in the trenches; bang goes an 8-inch shell from the sailors’
battery, generally right into the embrasure, from which the mischief
came. Another shell reaches them from our Left Attack. The French,
too, take it up and pop one into them from the Mamelon, and then for
the next half-hour a general scrimmage takes place, exciting to a
degree. A very little precaution teaches you to know, by every gun that
the enemy fires, whether they are shot or shell. The shot we do not
care for. I saw one of our Jacks make a low bow to a shot that he saw
coming directly at him: at the right moment he bobbed his head, and
it passed about a foot above his body. There are small hollow places
on ground above our batteries in which sailors are employed making
gabions: having expended their materials the bluejackets were amusing
themselves by running at one another with the gabions over their heads,
when an enemy’s shell exploded without serious damage to any one.
Most of the shot strike the parapet and throw a cloud of dust, dirt,
and small stones into our batteries. Each day I have been so covered
that you could not have told the proper colour of my dress. The shot
are very good fun, but the shells are beastly things from which it is
difficult to escape. They are no respecters of persons. On Sunday a
man was killed by the fragments of a shell while he was sitting in the
supposed most secure place inside the entrance to one of our magazines.

[Illustration: _Sketch by Col. Hon. W. Colville. 1855.

In Rear of the Lancaster Battery_]

Wenny Coke goes into the trenches to-night, and to-morrow I shall be
in our batteries all day and will give such a dusting to any Russian
battery that has the impudence to molest my favourite Fusiliers. I am
going to take grub, and have invited Wenny to dinner in the deepest
part of his trench. Had I had time, I could fill a quire with the
absurdities of the soldiers as well as sailors, who have given many
a good laugh. Directly little Harry heard of my appointment, he got
leave and galloped up to my tent.

[Sidenote: July 15.]

Visited our right division in trenches. Thompson performing divine
service in open air to the Naval Brigade; “Little Harry” with him. A
man killed while sitting in the battery reading his Bible.

[Sidenote: July 16.]

Among arrivals from home in Balaklava was a cargo of ice for use of
Naval Brigade hospitals. For some unknown reason doctors objected
to receive ice in the hospitals! After my superiors afloat had been
supplied, the Commander of the Naval Brigade came in for a share. We
were not far from the French headquarters. I sent a couple of blocks
to General Pellissier, who invited me to _déjeuner_. He had clever
fittings with green branches, etc., for luxury and comfort reminding me
of Vauxhall gardens in bygone times. Dined with General Barnard.

[Sidenote: Letter to H. F. S. July 18.]

Wenny Coke in the trenches last night bowled over by a spent round.
On visiting his tent I found him cheery, but round shot don’t touch
gently. I was about to sit on a fur coat, rolled up near the head of
his bed, when he called out, “Don’t sit there, Uncle Harry. A cat from
Sevastopol came out last night and dropped nine kittens in the sleeve!”

Shepherd, one of the petty officers of the _St. Jean d’Acre_, had
conceived the idea that he could, single-handed, blow up a man-of-war
in Sevastopol harbour. The contrivance appeared simple enough. I had
already taken him with his apparatus to the Admiral, who was amused and
approved, leaving the time for the experiment to me. The plan was this.
To prepare a light iron case a foot long by eighteen inches, with a
loop at each end. The case to be fitted with a Bickford’s fuse, which
burns under water. A sort of canvas duck punt was to be fitted to
exactly hold the case amidships. The after part was to hold one sitter,
who could easily steer with a canoe paddle without noise. The Russians
had been in the habit of sending three or four thousand men across
the entrance end of the harbour. The night fire of war-ships had so
inconvenienced this passage of their transport boats, they shifted the
line of their passage higher up the harbour.

The dark night for our expedition arrived at last. The spot for
embarkation was only separated by a spur of land covered by thick scrub
and bush, but the darkness of the night enabled our guide to take us to
the water. At half-past twelve the punt left the rough slips and was
immediately lost to sight, nor was there the slightest sound. At the
expiration of three hours nothing had occurred, and there were signs
of daybreak. With us was Colonel St. George Foley, attached to General
Pellissier’s staff. We were within range of the Russian sentries, and
had to creep through scrub and bushes until we were inside the French
lines: we soon commenced on our refreshments. I was distressed at
having helped to lose poor John Shepherd--as, if caught, he would be
shot as a spy. St. George Foley was put out at the loss of his horse,
servant, and haversack. My coxswain, who, I think, had been washing his
mouth out, was sent in search among an acre of gun carriages, waggons,
etc., and returned, announcing to Foley that “The beggar was gone, but
had left his painter.” Poor Foley applied for explanation. Painter was
a rope spliced in a ring in the bow of a boat, and most likely the
horse had slipped his head out of halter and gone home--the servant
losing no time in following. In fact, all during the night the white
light of shells had been flying over our heads from three different
Russian batteries at a French mortar battery. Great was my delight an
hour after my arrival in camp to hear of Shepherd’s safe return. The
plucky fellow had pulled past and between a number of Russian steamers,
and was within 400 yards of the three-deckers, when a whole string of
Russian boats pushed off from the western shore to convey troops across.

For an hour he lay in his little punt hoping for an opening to pass
through. Daylight came and he had not time to return the distance to
where we were; he therefore struck at once for Careening Bay, one side
of which he knew was in the possession of the French. Lord Charles
Paget’s plan of night attack had caused the Russians to change the
route for conveying reliefs across.

[Sidenote: July 19.]

On returning from batteries got news of Lushington’s promotion and my
appointment to the command of the Naval Brigade! Lucky dog that I am!

[Sidenote: July 20.]

Early ride to Kamiesch and breakfast with the Admiral. Kind and
confidential chat.

[Sidenote: July 21.]

Assumed command of Naval Brigade: Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, A.D.C.;
Rev. Josiah Thompson, Chaplain; forage allowance for five horses.

Early morning, a cavalry corporal with two orderlies at my tent door.
Reported myself at headquarters.

[Sidenote: July 22.]

Sunday, divine service in open air. Visited Right Attack and Quarries
with Sir Harry Jones; dined with him.

[Sidenote: In the batteries of Naval Brigade, July 23.]

Instructions from headquarters to prepare for a sortie, and that I had
better communicate with the General at the Quarries. The day was far
advanced: a storm brewing. Had an experienced and good officer in
Captain Moorsom, who had been in the Naval Brigade from the beginning.
Of course Moorsom opened a sharp fire on the Russian batteries, which
eventually drew part of their fire off our advanced trenches. He knew
the bearings of the Russian forts on which our batteries could tell
best. Could not do better than leave him in charge, while I went to
the quarries for further instruction. Storm commencing, shifted into
pea-jacket and jack-boots, sword and cap. Rain fell heavily. Zig-zags
being on the slope, I was soon washed out and took to the open. Dark,
too, came on with the storm; lost my way, but knew by descending,
and the constant discharge of musketry, I must come to our own
troops--which I did; but no one could hear or attend to me. I knew not
the way. Took to the right. Came on the Guards, whom I knew by their
bearskins; they were equally busy. It was no use pulling their coats;
the thunder of guns and muskets rendered one’s voice equally useless,
so crept on. The storm began to break. Laid hold of a soldier’s coat
and bellowed to him. He bellowed “sergeant,” who bellowed me what my
name was. When I told him, he said: “That lie won’t do. I know Captain
Keppel of the Grenadiers. You must come to our officer.” I pleaded
inability to walk further. Another bearskin on my left! No alternative.
The storm and sortie were over.

By the time we reached the officers, they were enjoying a little rest
as well as refreshment. One of them asked the sergeant: “What have you
there?” “A prisoner, sir.” After a while there was a laugh. Most of
them knew and had made me out.

With the assistance of grog and a feed I got back to my tent, but
the sun was well up. The kind Lord Rokeby pretended to be angry, and
offered that if I attended the camp, the Brigade should march past
me; but I don’t think my poor father, had he been alive, would have
recognised me in my trench costume.

[Sidenote: Letter to M. S. July 28.]

Our batteries are getting so close to the enemy’s that casualties are
frequent, and the Naval Brigade gradually reducing, without a chance
of recruiting, except in officers, whose vacancies are replaced from
the Fleet. Although they hear, afloat, the jokes played, when the time
comes they forget. Our chief battery on the left is at the foot of a
hill, and a favourite mark for the enemy’s shells. The fuses burning
in the air are often heard before the shells are seen. We have trained
look-out men who know by the sound about where the shell was likely
to drop. They call out, “Right,” “Left,” “Front,” “Rear,” when those
present rush to any point they fancy, dodge close to a gun carriage, or
jump through the embrasure, and so risk a Russian bullet.

The favourite resort was the magazine passage, cut out of the hill
with a bend in it. The first there, the best chance. The new arrival
affords the best sport, and is prepared for. The dirtiest stretcher, on
which some bleeding body had lately been carried, is at hand. The shell
bursts; the new arrival is struck behind the ear by moist clay, is
immediately seized, laid on the dirty stretcher, carried off, without
resistance, by bearers to the zig-zag cutting and upset into the ditch,
which generally holds water. Of course he is received with cheers,
and watches anxiously for the next newcomer. Dined yesterday with the
Commander-in-Chief at headquarters and met our War Minister, the Duke
of Newcastle; I have established a mess-room, where we meet at supposed
dinner at eight o’clock. Most of my time is passed in the batteries.

[Sidenote: July 30.]

Visited Left Attack. Found remains of the gallant Colonel Norcott’s
horse and servant just killed by the same shot. He always rode
this white charger in front of his rifle regiment. Mail in. Letter
from First Lord, Sir Charles Wood, informing me of my having the
Good Service Pension. Visited hospital in Cossack Bay and Admiral
Freemantle.




CHAPTER LIX

TRENCHES--BEFORE SEVASTOPOL


[Sidenote: 1855. Aug. 1.]

Heavy fall of rain. Whole country as in winter. Trenches under water.

[Sidenote: Aug. 2.]

Bought a beautiful Arab from an officer going home, of 10th Hussars.
Lord Rokeby and Bob Lindsay to dine at our mess.

[Sidenote: Aug. 3.]

An attempt at a sortie made last night. Russians driven back easily.
Breakfasted with Hugh Rose, French headquarters. Minute inspection of
Mamelon with Lord Rokeby, troops marching past. Curious custom: the
French dig large holes as burial-places in sight of those going to the
trenches.

[Sidenote: Aug. 4.]

Rode to Monastery to arrange for Warde’s going afloat. Wenny Coke
wounded last night in trenches. We have advanced our batteries and
trenches nearer the enemy’s guns without thickening them in proportion.
A shot has no business to pass through a parapet. I had a man turned
over yesterday by a round shot; he was not killed, as the strength of
the shot was expended before it got through the parapet. One of the
stones gave me a clip in the back; but the Russians had been riled by
our cutting a cart in two just before.

[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]

Sunday, muster and divine service. On visiting the hospital I found
one of my poor fellows carving a heart on a ring, part of his own
thigh-bone, which had been amputated. On asking him what he was going
to do with it, he replied, “To send it to my girl, sir.” Another was
busy securing the sides of his hat into the shape of a Greenwich
pensioner’s: a curtain hung round his jacket to look like a long-tailed
coat. He had only one leg.

A day or two ago I rode with Lord Rokeby to see a division French
lines--3000 Chasseurs d’Afrique, cream of French cavalry. Saw a Russian
lady in Sevastopol flying a kite; the wind was in the direction of the
Mamelon. I pointed it out to the French General Linois, who ordered
his riflemen to fire; they cut the string and down came the kite just
inside the trenches. He gave it to Lord Rokeby, who sent it home. The
French general raised his cap by way of apologising to the lady, and
ordered the riflemen to raise theirs on the points of their bayonets. A
round of Russian grape shot sent one cap flying and broke two muskets.
A broiling day--face burnt cruel.

[Sidenote: Aug. 6.]

Dined with Lord Rokeby. George Goldsmith up to breakfast. Visited Right
Attack. Saw, the other day, feeding together in the trenches, Wilbraham
Oates Lennox, Royal Engineers, V.C., Captain John Maitland Lennox,
R.M.L.I., and Augustus Frederick, Captain Royal Artillery, sons of my
friend Lord George Lennox. Dined with General Codrington.

[Sidenote: Aug. 7.]

Called on Chief of Artillery. Rode with Lord Rokeby to Cossack Bay
and hospital to see poor D’Aeth, first lieutenant _Sidon_, dying of
cholera. He was a youngster with me in the _Dido_; a more gallant
fellow there could not be. He was taken ill at one this morning, having
been dining at Kamiesch, and was given over five hours afterwards.
He had a locket containing the miniature of a pretty Portuguese girl
at Lisbon, and requested it might be buried with him. Went on board
_Læander_.

[Sidenote: Aug. 8.]

Visited Left Attack. Both Admirals up; met at headquarters. Stopped
to luncheon. While in Right Attack trenches received directions from
headquarters to show the Duke of Newcastle the Quarries. His Grace
following with attendants, I explained the impossibility of such a
staff: the feathers alone would bring on us the whole Russian fire. We
were three or four only. Although shot and shell passed over our heads
we were right enough, until near the Quarries, when a shell burst,
sending fragments close to us: one so near that it almost touched the
Duke, and lodged in a gabion on my side. His Grace expressed a wish to
have the piece; a soldier dislodged it with his bayonet. I held it out
to the Duke, but it was so hot that he dropped it. I believe it is now
at Clumber, with two empty thirteen-inch Russian shells picked up close
to our Brigade batteries. General Barnard and staff dined at naval mess.

[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]

Threatening, heavy-looking weather, which came down in a deluge.

[Sidenote: Aug. 10.]

Visited St. George, my Chief of Artillery. Rode over to Balaklava to
see Freemantle after his fall. Wenny Coke and other friends to dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 11.]

Visited all Right Attack with General Jones. Wenny Coke, E. Somerset,
Curzon, and other friends to dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]

Broiling hot. Artillery under orders to be ready at daylight following
morning in the field.

Enclosed is a specimen of the notices I so often received in the
batteries, worth all the foolscap that could be written:--

    DEAR UNCLE HARRY--In case you have not been warned, I am
    desired by the General to give you notice that an attack from
    the enemy is expected upon our trenches at 3 A.M. to-morrow.
    The covering parties in the trenches have been doubled, first
    division in the Right Attack.--Yours sincerely,

    ROBERT J. LINDSAY.

[Sidenote: Aug. 13.]

Poor Hughie Drummond, Adjutant of Scots Fusilier Guards, killed in
trenches.

[Sidenote: Aug. 15.]

Prince Victor, Thomas, and self rode to Balaclava. I to see Admiral;
they to get material for a stable.

       *       *       *       *       *

One of my horses, “Vladimir,” was an “ever-lasting.” He had been
captured on Balaclava day from Prince Vladimir’s regiment. He was
savage, and one foreleg was held up to enable me to mount. He would
jump anything I asked him. Prince Victor often had difficulty in
keeping me in sight. He shod his own horses, and I think was sorry when
the war was over.

[Sidenote: Battle of Tchernaya, Aug. 16.]

Orders from headquarters to be prepared for a sortie, which, not coming
off, enabled me to ride with Prince Victor to the Tchernaya, where a
desperate attack was being made by the Russians on the Italians, the
French going to their assistance. On the high ground on our way we met
the dead and dying being brought up on mules, stretchers, and backs
of men, then laid out in subdivided areas as most convenient for the
French and English surgeons to get at. We descended to the river; the
Russians, who had retreated to the high ground, continued to fire
shot and shell on those who were helping the dying and wounded. The
Tchernaya is a small river, but required a bridge to get over it. One
of the painful sights was the badly wounded trying to drag themselves
to the river, calling for drink. While contemplating the body of a
young Russian officer (judging from his uniform and spurs), whose upper
jaw had been shot clean away, the lower had an uninjured row of white
teeth, heard a voice over my shoulder, remarking, “Il ne mange plus.”
Further on a Russian soldier had his left arm stretched out straight.
Thought he must be alive and rode up, to find him stiff and dead. On a
finger was a large ring. Without dismounting, drew it off, thinking I
had a memento of the battle, but finding it was only brass, I was very
near giving it back.

[Sidenote: Aug. 17.]

Notice from headquarters to be prepared for a determined assault on
our Right Attack batteries. On my way met my late shipmate, Lieutenant
Oldfield, weeping: a round shot had just taken his artillery brother’s
head off! Our batteries, not having been formed at the same time,
were somewhat irregular, and it had been necessary to prevent the men
rushing from one battery to the assistance of another: a friendly hint
was given from headquarters that our men should leave their muskets and
side arms behind! We had a large battery, with three or four smaller,
on each side. In the main battery I selected and made a pile of empty
shell cases, forming a platform for self to stand on. Returning
after final inspection, found Captain Hammett in possession of my
pile. Caused him to dismount, though he seemed to object, but having
learned which of the Russian batteries could bear on our own, I took
possession. The ball had commenced. After a few minutes I called from
the position, “Look out, a round shot direct for our battery.” Hammett
gave the notice to the men, who sprang from either side, but did not
move himself. The shot touched the muzzle of the gun, and doubled up
poor Hammett. There was a youngster bending over; I hoped there were
not two down. Found the poor lad was sick at the sight of Hammett’s
wounds. My gig’s crew bore him to our camp, some three miles off. Some
one in camp with a telescope, seeing a gold lace cuff from under the
stretcher borne by the Captain’s gig’s crew, announced my end. Total:
five killed, nineteen wounded.

[Illustration: _Plan of Sevastopol._]

[Sidenote: In Naval Brigade, Aug. 18.]

Continued vigorous bombardment on our side, but enemy nearly shut up.
Whole day on Right Attack. Six men only were wounded on Left Attack.
Dined with Charlie Windham, the almost too plucky Brigadier General of
Second Division. Met Duke of Newcastle.

[Sidenote: Aug. 19.]

_Sunday._--Bombardment continuing. Getting used to narrow escapes; had
two on Left Attack. Dog killed on Right Attack in afternoon. Redan much
cut up, also Malakoff. General Barnard, staff and Steele to dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 20.]

Visit from Bob Stopford. Returned to usual routine of firing. Visited
Left Attack. Sir Thomas Pasley and son coming there. Young Pasley just
made a Commander to take Hammett’s place. Generals Barnard and Bentick
to dine.

[Sidenote: Aug. 21.]

Threatened sortie. Troops out. Visited Right Attack; fired some long
range near the Russian three-decker and bridge, etc.

[Sidenote: Aug. 22.]

Accompanied Lord Rokeby to show him our long range practice on Right
Attack. But little time to go elsewhere. Dined with General Sir William
Eyre to meet the Duke of Newcastle.

[Sidenote: Aug. 23.]

Introduced Pasley to Right Attack. Not much going on. Threw several
shot round, if not into Russian ship. Mail arrived. Wynyard, Wenny,
Connell, and others to dine.

[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]

To headquarters and Balaklava and hospital, Cossack Bay. Lieutenant
Everett, severe wound in battery. General Sir William Eyre to dine.

[Sidenote: Aug. 25.]

Turned out at 2.30 A.M. to meet expected sortie. No go. Lord Rokeby and
Wenny to dine.

[Illustration: _Inside the Naval Brigade Battery._]

[Sidenote: Aug. 26.]

In batteries at an early hour (3 A.M.). Billy Fyler and Fitzroy to
dinner.

[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]

Grand meeting at headquarters to invest certain parties with order of
G. and K.C.B. Visited Right Attack and demolished new works on the
salient of Redan.

[Sidenote: Aug. 28.]

Lord Rokeby, who was, I might say, “all over the place,” had visited
the French lines that extended from the Malakoff in the direction of
Inkerman. The officers complained how annoyed they had been by a hole
made by the Russians at the foot of the Malakoff, through which, on
a dark night, they managed to creep, and having but the sky for a
background, themselves unseen, managed to pick off the French sentries.
Rokeby having spotted where the hole was, thought it was within range
of our Naval Brigade batteries, and having found me, pointed out the
fresh stopped hole. To make sure, I decided on visiting the place
myself. Mounted my pony, found the French lines and tried to explain in
bad French what I had come for. They assisted me through the stopped
embrasure, at right angles with the Malakoff. I had not been there more
than a minute than a “pat, pat” noise struck the bushes. It was a noise
I had heard before, and thinking I had seen quite enough, struggled to
get back, but found that instead of help, I was detained from within by
pressure on the _soles of my boots_. I reserved the best French that I
could think of until I got back, and then let out at my then comrades
in the foulest French I could muster. They laughed good-humouredly!
It being late I rode across an open space and was as near as possible
spotted by a Russian round shot. I got back in time to point such guns
as would bear on the spot; if it had not been for the good Rokeby I
felt inclined to lay the guns in another direction.




CHAPTER LX

THE REDAN


[Sidenote: 1855. Extract from letter home, Sept. 1.]

Our allies are not yet ready for the next and, I trust, final assault;
their sap appears to touch the edge of the Malakoff. We, too, are not
ready, being in want of ammunition. We are all anxious that something
should be done, as we know not when to prepare for winter quarters.
If the Malakoff falls, it must naturally be followed by that of the
remaining works of the enemy. On the south side we shall advance
somewhat nearer to our work. The Russians, too, appear to be preparing
for a move. They have established a bridge across the harbour and are
fast removing their goods and chattels. Everything leads us to suppose
that the winter will not find us in our present position. The enemy
will contest every inch of ground. We do not, on our side, grow wiser
from experience. The other night our working party on the Right Attack
was surprised and some taken prisoners by a small body of Russians
who made a sortie. Officers have over and over again been surprised
and taken prisoners while planting their advanced sentries at night
by Russians lying concealed in the shrubs and grass. A little more
care would have prevented this. My silly fellows unnecessarily expose
themselves in spite of warnings and examples.

We have two casualties; besides, an amateur youngster from the
_Curaçoa_ must mount the parapet and borrow a sergeant’s musket, to
take a shot at a Russian. This young Gambier mounted on the top of
the parapet, had a _Miniè_ ball through his thigh in a moment. One of
my “Rodneys” got shot through the head yesterday, having gone outside
the embrasure to pick up sticks to cook his dinner. Yesterday our
bluejackets acted a play in the open air. Stage, the side of a hill; a
ballet dancer did Taglioni to perfection. The Duke of Newcastle dined
at our mess. Never enjoyed better health: lots of excitement and plenty
to do. In fact I have knocked up in succession all my staff, viz. my
A.D.C., secretary, and the stout Padre, “Thomas.” But I must not crow
till out of the wood.

[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]

Dined with Rokeby, meeting John Dugdale Astley, Scots Fusilier Guards,
returned with wound cured, and others. Was going to write a line;
an unusual rattle of musketry announced a sortie. Galloped to our
batteries, found them blazing away. The attack was on our right on the
French, who, being well prepared, gave the Russians a dressing. I have
not heard to what amount.

I must beg allowance of my readers for difference of expression in the
“Right” and “Left” Attack. Naval Brigade batteries faced Sevastopol,
while the military maps faced inland.

The moon was rising, and the outlines of hills, forts, and figures
showing. In each trench, standing up with musket in hand, were several
rows of our soldiers ready to jump at a call in support of those
further in advance, or to attack should the French have driven the
Russians back in that direction. But their attack had been on the
Mamelon from the Malakoff. We were expecting and ready to repel a
similar sortie from the Redan, but none came. When I reached the front
Captain Pechell, only son of Sir George, Bart., R.N., had just been
shot down with six men of the 77th. It is customary at night for each
side to throw out sentries in advance directly it is dark enough to
cover the persons so advancing. Just between the foot of the ditch
outside the Redan and our advanced trenches there is a cave, the mouth
of which faces towards the works on our right. Directly it is dark the
object between the Russians and ourselves is to try which can first
get possession of it. We have generally succeeded, but last night the
officer of the 88th, who went to take possession, mistook his way.
Pechell, who had been in it before, volunteered, but it was then too
late, the Russians being in possession, and at same time entirely hid
by the darkness of the cave; they allowed Pechell and his six men to
approach near enough to make sure, and then potted them all.

[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]

A bombardment, in earnest, commenced at 6 this morning; at 11.30, the
usual resting-time of the Russians, the French surprised and carried
the Malakoff. Our attempt on the Redan was to follow the hoisting of
the French flag on the Malakoff, which was too late for any further
surprises. We could now see clearly what our Naval Brigade had to do.
Leaving the higher batteries, I went down to our extreme left, on the
real Right Attack, and found a fresh battery had been made during the
night by engineers, and in charge of a young artillery officer. I had
already been advised at headquarters that our men should leave their
small arms behind. General Simpson may have heard that on a previous
occasion, when the Naval Brigade were told off to carry the scaling
ladders under the gallant Peel, directly they observed the slope of
the Redan fortification they proposed to drop the ladders, saying they
could get in better without them. After visiting the main batteries,
where my most experienced hands were, I joined our later, extended
battery. We made a bad beginning, inasmuch as our magazine was blown
up, which rendered eight guns less effective.

The rush for the Redan had now commenced, and in the excitement our
men wanted to draw the stakes out of the gabions, and to rush in. I
noticed, on high ground to my left, the two Generals, Simpson and
Gascoigne, one wounded in the head. Directly opposite, within 300
yards, was a Russian battery playing on our men; half the effect of our
battery was spoilt by being unable to fire, except by dropping shots
into the Russians opposite. Shortly after an A.D.C. came galloping,
giving me an order to “cease firing.” Our soldiers were being mowed
down, chiefly by grape shot. The young artillery officer had ceased
firing. I ran to his small battery and inquired the reason. He, too,
had received orders, same effect. I told him I had received the same,
but on no account to cease firing, and offered to send as many spare
hands as he could employ, which he accepted. The Russians used grape
shot, which came hopping along, many of them stopping in the ditch in
front of our battery. The bombardment was kept up till sunset. Augustus
Fitzroy, whose battery was on our left, on returning to camp joined
two of our officers who preferred the open. Before reaching his tent
he was knocked over by a bullet, which must have come from the Redan;
the Russians having returned to that end, which the gallant Windham had
held.

[Illustration: _“Redan” Windham._]

Windham was one of my oldest friends; we were boys together and
remained friends till his death, February 2, 1870, at the early age
of fifty-nine. He was properly called the Hero of the Redan, for by
his gallant bearing on that day he did much to retrieve our good name.
Dead against the first attack himself, its numbers, place, etc. etc.,
he nevertheless led it in the most gallant manner, being first in the
work--and after his three messengers had been disabled had the _moral_
courage to go back himself and solicit reinforcements.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Sidenote: Sept. 9.]

Early this morning visited Sir Colin Campbell; a few Highlanders had
during the night crept into the Redan and found it deserted. On Sir
Colin’s invitation we rode into the Redan by the salient angle. Horrors
met us at every step. Two instances of faithful, but half-starved dogs
were sitting on bodies, from which no coaxing could draw them. In a
small hut on a table, leaning against the wall, was a Russian officer,
looking smart in his uniform; on my speaking to him I found that he was
dead. In the higher part noticed excavations and could trace wires for
explosions. Sevastopol had been evacuated during the night--magazines
blown up--town blazing--ships sank--others on fire. The Russians had
put themselves on the safe side of the harbour by blowing up the east
end of the floating bridge. Strolling about I found myself close to
the ground floor of a hospital. On entering I was between two long
rows of Russian soldiers, dead and dying, on broad wooden stretchers.
I will not attempt to describe the horrors, but each body was in a
position as if trying to escape. At the further end I found a young
English officer in uniform who said he had been expecting us some
time--he was wandering in his mind. A flag of truce was hoisted about
noon. The Russians sent steamers to remove their dead and dying. One,
the _Vladimir_, was commanded, I think, by Captain Etholin, who had
done a gallant thing earlier in the war by capturing and taking into
the harbour an English transport that had grounded in sight of our
combined fleets. While the truce flag was up I moved three guns down
to the edge of the harbour. When the Russian steamers had landed their
dead and dying and returned to their moorings, in front of where we
stood in a sort of hostile parade, one of the three Naval Brigade
guns went off and smashed _Vladimir’s_ quarter boat. That same night
we were building a screen, from behind which we could destroy any
attempt at landing to interfere with our newly appointed Governor,
Charles Windham. At midnight, superintending the work, I observed the
_Vladimir_ make a move in our direction. Not a sound from on board.
When she got near mid-channel, she stopped and gradually turned with
her head up the harbour. When broadside on I gave the order to lie down
behind our newly made screen, whereupon _Vladimir_ quietly settled
herself at the bottom of the harbour, leaving nothing but the upper
masts. It was from the foremast of that ship that all flags of truce
and communications were made.

[Sidenote: Sept. 10.]

Word was sent to me that poor Augustus Fitzroy’s wound was considered
mortal. Wrote to prepare his father for the sad event, and then to
receive his last instructions. Poor dear, unlucky, gallant fellow. I
had known the whole family from the time I had landed, as a skeleton
boy, at the Cape of Good Hope in 1827. In pain I took down the items as
he wished them to be disposed of: poor boy! They were but few. He was
buried on Cathcart’s Hill with full military honours, in the grave next
to Sir Robert Newman, which I had made big enough to hold two.

[Sidenote: Sept. 11.]

The inspection of the evacuated forts showed how destructive had been
the fire of our batteries and how great a share the Naval Brigade had
in the Fall of Sevastopol. It is an immense place, but there was not
a spot where our shot had not penetrated. It was a sad spectacle; so
precipitate had been the Russian retreat that they had cut off the
communication by their bridge and left some 2000 wounded in barracks.
Looking at the mastheads of their line-of-battle ships, and the still
smoking ruins of their public buildings, I was in hopes that this would
bring the war to a conclusion.

       *       *       *       *       *

Naval Brigade ordered to prepare for re-embarking. Was frequently in
the artillery camp arranging details.

One morning, in the Colonel’s marquee, we noticed a sailor coming from
the town. As he was steering wildly, I thought it best to retire into
the shade. The Colonel asked where he was from: if he had any loot. He
replied he had not, and added, “To-morrow, I intends to ewacuate the
Crimea.”




CHAPTER LXI

AFTER FALL OF SEVASTOPOL


[Sidenote: 1855. Sevastopol, Sept. 16.]

The breaking up for embarkation of our Brigade was a curious scene.
First started off 160 mules, with baggage, etc. Such a collection!
Then came our men, divided into three divisions, according to their
destinations. I go to the _Rodney_ at Kazatch, and officers to the
different ships at Balaklava. Two regiments kindly sent their bands:
the 14th, in which my brother was at Waterloo, and the 18th Royal
Irish with ours. The Naval Brigade went with flags of all descriptions
flying, and no end of cheering--with “one more for Captain _Kaple_.”

[Sidenote: Sept. 17.]

The more I visit the Russian works and town of Sevastopol, the more
wonderful does everything connected with the siege appear. One hardly
knows which is the most extraordinary--the perfect destruction of
every building in the town by shot and shell, or the stupendous works
erected by the Russians for their defence. The Redan and Malakoff are
nothing compared to the Flagstaff and Garden Batteries. The latter were
impregnable, and might have held out any length of time. The Malakoff
was taken by surprise by the French, as they had done the Mamelon.
Of all, the Redan appeared the least difficult to assault--but that
is a subject we all try to forget. Of our generals, Colonel, now
Brigadier-General Charles Windham, comes out the best. The Russians
have left vast stores of guns, etc., they could not, in their haste,
carry away.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Little Harry (Stephenson), with symptoms of fever, on board _Rodney_,
despatched at once with Thompson to Serapia Hospital. Dined with
Windham as Governor in city of Sevastopol. A shell burst within ten
yards as I mounted pony to go home.

[Sidenote: Sept. 23.]

Visited with General Barnard, La Marmora’s look-out houses over the
Tchernaya and adjacent country. On Saturday pitched my tent near
General Barnard.

[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]

Hugh Rose sent me from French headquarters the two last captured
Cossack spears. (The last I saw of them was at Sir Thomas Whichcote’s,
Ashwerby Park, to which I afterwards added a link of the chain that
formed the slings of the main yard of the _Twelve Apostles_.)

[Sidenote: Sept. 28.]

Having exchanged with Moorsom, Connell found an artillery waggon for my
traps, rode down to Balaclava, taking up quarters on board _Læander_.
My servant, having left Bury’s much-valued clock in tent, sent him back.

[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]

Like my Admiral, and like having work to do.

[Sidenote: Sept. 30.]

Took Washington and his son a ride on to Balaclava Plain, and round by
headquarters.

[Sidenote: Oct. 1.]

Commenced duties as Flag Captain. Dockyard affording amusement,
especially erection of stables.

[Sidenote: Oct. 3.]

Sid Skipwith and I dining with Methven, commanding P. and O. _Colombo_.

[Sidenote: Oct. 5.]

Busy embarking Royal Marines, the finest body of men now in the Crimea.

[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]

Embarking troops. Rode in afternoon with the Duberlys, 8th Hussars, to
Baidar to hear the Sardinian Band.

[Sidenote: Oct. 8.]

Cavalry and horse artillery embarking for Eupatoria. Lady Paulet on
board _Oscar_. Lord William Paulet to stay with Admiral.

[Sidenote: Oct. 13.]

Put box with poor Augustus Fitzroy’s bequests on board _Ripon_ for
conveyance to his sister, Hon. Mrs. Keith Stewart.

[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]

Rode over to Kazatch to ascertain means for embarkation of Highland
Brigade.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

Dined with the Duberlys, Windham and St. George Foley.

[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]

Dinner at a Kamiesch restaurant--Duberlys, Vansittart, St. George
Foley, Charlie Windham, and Lewis and Earle, A.D.C.’s, Prince Victor
and Thompson, Sir William Gordon and Lord Dunkellin.

[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]

Dined on board _Belgravia_ with Lady Paulet, Mrs. Mitchell and Lady
Manson.

[Sidenote: Oct. 24.]

Review of cavalry and horse artillery: none like them in the world:
near 3000 strong.

[Sidenote: Oct. 28.]

Picnic at Baidar--_Belgravian_ ladies, Prince Victor, T. Duberly, etc.
Former lost their way coming back.

[Sidenote: Oct. 29.]

Started with Thompson for Kazatch. My “Rajah” kicking him in play, had
him carried off on stretcher to Connell’s camp.

[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]

We formed a cheery party for a ride towards Bilbek, consisting of
Prince Victor, the Duberlys, Mark Kerr, Coleraine, Vansittart, and
self, about 13 miles distant. The country hilly, grassy, and bushy;
weather perfect. The attendants had arranged our picnic on a flat space
on a hilly point. We had arranged ourselves to feed, when one of our
party found we had disturbed a cavalry vedette of our own countrymen on
an adjacent point. A ravine between, they could not conveniently get at
us.

[Illustration: _Sketched from life by Hon. Col. W. Colville. 1855._

_A Vidette of Cossacks._]

While things were getting ready rode to the western edge of our
selected spot and found we had likewise disturbed a nest of Cossacks.
Our small party were not long in packing up this nice little picnic.
Being well mounted, I waited to take a farewell peep, and from my
position saw a greasy Cossack, about 30 feet below me, looking about
with his carbine across his saddle, I suppose for something to eat.
Being hungry myself, I overtook our party about to picnic a quarter of
a mile off, Mark Kerr riding, as usual, without his hat.

[Sidenote: Nov 4.]

Accompanied Lady Paulet to breakfast with Windham. Rode afterwards to
Kazatch; dined with Beauchamp Seymour.

[Sidenote: Nov 5.]

Breakfast with Sir E. Lyons. Transacted business, rode back to
Balaclava, putting up a large covey of partridges by the way.

[Sidenote: Nov 6.]

8th Hussars embarking. Shall miss them and Mrs. Duberly.

[Sidenote: Nov 8.]

With Wenny Coke to look after covey of partridges seen by me. While
preparing luncheon, observed a French soldier stalking a bird that
flew from bush to bush. Asked Wenny to shoot the bird for him while I
prepared luncheon. When he came back I asked if the man was pleased. He
replied, “I don’t know! I have the bird in my pocket.” I said “What a
brute you are,” when he produced a woodcock, which we at once cooked.

[Sidenote: Nov 11.]

With my Admiral to headquarters. Took leave of General Sir James
Simpson, also Willy Colville, who accompanies him to England. Mark Kerr
was there. Admiral and I dined with Dupuis.

[Sidenote: Nov 15.]

A fearful explosion between 3 and 4 P.M. in French Artillery Park, near
the Mill. Rode over, sad sight. Loaded shells bursting, contents flying
in a horizontal direction about seven feet from the ground, killing
almost every horse that was on its legs. It being dinner hour most
officers escaped. There was a large windmill used as a powder magazine.
It was a sight to see the gallant engineers mounting ladders with wet
blankets to nail on the outside of the Mill, to prevent falling fire
igniting powder. I got so excited that I found myself letting go the
reins to clasp my hands over my cap, as if that could preserve my
brain box from falling fragments of shell. There was no distinction
of nationality. It is fortunate that the first horizontal explosion
took place while officers were dining. I was still looking on, when a
working party of the 18th Royal Irish came rushing and formed up. I
asked the sergeant what they were waiting for. He answered “Orders.”
I said, “That was not your form when we were in China, and danger in
sight.” They were off at once, officers and all, into the igniting
shells. Nearly the last wounded I saw was a young officer carried on a
stretcher, the boots on his legs heels uppermost. I think his name was
Dashwood: a more painful sight than any fight. Thirty tons of powder
lately arrived from England were destroyed.

[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]

Rode with my Admiral over to Kazatch to visit Commander-in-Chief; with
him to take last look at Sevastopol Docks before destruction. Russians
still numerous on north side.

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Took leave of Wenny Coke.--homeward bound. Party to dine: Steele and
Rose.

[Sidenote: Nov. 28.]

Vansittart, taking his departure, leaves me his horse to forward to his
mother.

[Sidenote: Nov. 30.]

Young Dalyell makes his appearance from Constantinople.

       *       *       *       *       *

From prisoners that had been exchanged, it appeared that the Russians
made a difference in their treatment of those they took prisoners and
those who allowed themselves to be taken. They treated the latter with
great contempt, and used them ill. The _Times_ paid a just tribute
to the manly bearing of the officers of the Russian army. The naval
officers--some of them--were fine fellows.

[Sidenote: Dec. 3.]

Dirty appearance of weather. My Admiral agreeing to remain on shore
another day, took two youngsters, Wellesley and Molyneux, to see
steeple chase. Weather turning fine. Sport very good. Rode back with
boys to dine with Sir Edmund Lyons.

[Sidenote: Dec. 8.]

Accompanied my Admiral to headquarters, then to Kazatch to stay with
Sir E. Lyons, and meet Curzon and St. George Foley and Beauchamp
Seymour. Jolly dinner.

       *       *       *       *       *

St. George Foley, Lord Raglan’s A.D.C., died whilst Governor of
Gibraltar.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]

Function on board French ships in memory of Admiral Bruat, _Royal
Albert_ firing 59 guns.

[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]

Visit from Cecil Rice--6 feet 2.

[Sidenote: Dec. 12.]

Rode to front. Young Willy Barnard ill. Mail in. Sir E. Lyons a
full Admiral: am so glad. Confidential despatch summoning him to a
conference in Paris, also Pellissier and La Marmora.

[Sidenote: Dec. 14.]

Accompanied my Admiral to headquarters. Admiral and I dined with
Hardinge, meeting Generals Barnard and Dupuis.

[Sidenote: Dec. 15.]

My Admiral, Prince Victor, and self to Kazatch, on a visit to Sir E.
Lyons. Brigadier Spencer and large party to dinner.

[Sidenote: Dec. 16.]

Across to Kaimesch to see Inglefield’s sketches and walk with him. Hugh
Rose joined dinner party.

[Sidenote: Dec. 17.]

Snow and frost, slippery riding. Returned to Balaklava.

[Sidenote: Dec. 19.]

Thousands upon thousands of that beautiful bird the bustard (there
are two sorts, one much larger), continually passing over to the
northward. Several of them shot from the heights in time for Christmas.

[Sidenote: Dec. 23.]

Rode to headquarters. George Cadogan and I to Kazatch on visit to
Beauchamp Seymour. Found Fitz Berkeley. We making jolly quartette on
board _Meteor_.

[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]

Ate my Christmas dinner with Charlie Windham: jolly party. Letter from
Sir Charles Wood, offering me division of gunboats: the thing of all
others I most coveted! Took passage in _Orinoco_.

[Sidenote: Dec. 27.]

Rode up with my Admiral to headquarters to take leave: uncommon good
luncheon.

[Sidenote: Dec. 28.]

Mail in from England. My name in papers as Commodore!

[Sidenote: Dec. 29.]

Took leave of my kind chief and Seymour, the latter agreeing to go as
my captain in case of my being a real Commodore. Embarked on board
_Orinoco_ at 1 P.M. from Balaklava.

[Sidenote: Dec. 30.]

Came to, in afternoon, in the entrance to the Golden Horn. Dined
with Borlase on board _Melapus_, 42, to meet the Admiral, Sir
Houston-Stewart.

[Sidenote: Constantinople, Dec. 31.]

No end of friends going both ways. Misseri’s full; H. de Bathe on
way to Crimea. At Embassy found Lady George Paget; Lady Powlett at
Misseri’s. Dined with Admiral on board _Hannibal_. Met there the
Turkish Admiral, our Adolphus Slade.




CHAPTER LXII

ARRIVAL FROM CRIMEA--THENCE IN _COLOSSUS_--SHORE TIME


[Sidenote: 1856. Jan. 1.]

Constantinople.--Put up at Misseri’s Hotel, when Dalrymple Hay, of
Flagship, announced that _Orinoco_ only waited for Captain Keppel.
Adieu to Constantinople.

[Sidenote: Malta, Jan. 5.]

Arrived early in Malta. Found Lady Talbot, Lady Victoria looking
beautiful, but, I fear, not long for this world. Charlie Talbot dining
with me. To opera, and re-embarked.

[Sidenote: Jan. 6.]

Steamed at an early hour.

[Sidenote: England, Jan. 17.]

Passed through the Needles passage a little before 8 A.M. Landed at
Southampton and started for London by train. Dined with Stephenson,
felt there was “no place like home.”

[Sidenote: London, Jan. 18.]

First visit to the Admiralty; well received. Found myself appointed
to _Colossus_ and division of gunboats. Relieving old schoolfellow,
Captain Robinson. Dined with Sir Maurice Berkeley.

[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]

Business at Admiralty, carpet-bag full of letters, no rest. Dined with
First Lord; Lords Lansdowne and Stanley there.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

By ’bus to visit Dowager Lady Albemarle at Twickenham; met Edwards, her
trainer.

[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]

Visited Georgie Kennedy at Northbank. Jolly family dinner at
Stephenson’s.

[Sidenote: Jan. 22.]

Called on Lady Fremantle and Lady William Paget, Arundels and Sir
Edmund Lyons. By rail to Portsmouth. Lodgings at Chambers on the Hard.

[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Jan. 23.]

No uniform to hand, nevertheless visited privately Admiral Sir George
Seymour and Admiral-Superintendent W. F. Martin. On board _Colossus_
and _Rodney_.

[Sidenote: Jan. 25.]

Took up commission for _Colossus_. Seven gunboats defective. Dined with
Admiral-Superintendent.

[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]

Got through two courts-martial on engineer and assistant-paymaster,
both pleading guilty, thereby saving our time, but not their sentences.
D’Eyncourt, Bowyear, Moorsom, and Clifford taking chop with me.

[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]

Early telegraph from Lord Arundel, that Sir E. Lyons dined at home. But
post brought order to dine with Her Majesty at Windsor! Just saved my
bacon, buying a pair of shoes as I passed through London.

[Sidenote: Windsor Castle, Feb. 1.]

Invited by H.R.H. Prince Albert to shoot. Borrowed coat of Colonel
Bowater. Shooting perfect. Back by 2 P.M. Visited Duchess of Kent at
Frogmore. Went over Castle armoury, etc. Took Mrs. Phipps into dinner.
Prince Albert taking leave over night.

[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]

By 10 o’clock train to London. Attended John Robb’s wedding and
breakfast.

[Sidenote: Feb. 3.]

Long chat with Sir James Graham. At Harry Stephenson’s, another family
gathering. Leicester and his brothers there. Edward Coke and wife,
Archie Macdonald and wife, all jolly and happy.

[Sidenote: London, Feb. 6.]

Dined with Duke of Cambridge. All Crimean men. Have seldom seen a
meeting of twelve men so well satisfied with their dinner as well as
with one another.

[Sidenote: Feb. 7.]

Dined with Baldwin Walker.

[Sidenote: London, Feb. 8.]

Ascertained by this day’s _Gazette_ that I was to have the C.B.

[Sidenote: Feb. 9.]

By 5 P.M. train to Portsmouth. In same carriage as George Lennox; dined
with him.

[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Feb. 12.]

Handsome mention made of me by Sir Charles Wood in house last night.

[Sidenote: Saturday, Feb. 16.]

By train to London.

[Sidenote: Feb. 18.]

Dined with First Lord.

       *       *       *       *       *

I must now take my readers back fourteen years, when the decorations
on the conclusion of the China war came out. My good father, not
understanding the rules of the Service, seeing that I was the only
captain not to receive the C.B., wrote privately to the then First
Lord, Lord Haddington. A correspondence ensued admitting the hardness
of my case, Lord Haddington informing my father that I should have the
first vacancy. On my arrival from the East Indian Station (which then
included China) in 1845, my father gave me this correspondence. On
leaving England in the _Mæander_ for the same station, without keeping
any copy, I respectfully enclosed the letters to Lord Auckland, and
have no doubt they were transferred to the Private Secretary’s Clerk’s
office, and may be there now.

But to return to the present. My predecessor in command of the
Naval Brigade in the Crimea, on his promotion, received the K.C.B.
and returned to England. Sir Edmund Lyons appointed me to succeed
Lushington. I felt that my command of the Brigade having terminated
successfully I might receive a similar distinction.

[Sidenote: Feb. 19.]

Early to see my friend Berkeley at the Admiralty, who, having well
considered the case, took me into the presence of the First Lord, Sir
Charles Wood. With him was his brother-in-law Sir Frederick Grey.
Admiral Berkeley having clearly stated my case, the First Lord, rather
excited, addressed me.

“Perhaps, Captain Keppel, you would like me to explain to Her Majesty
that you would rather decline the C.B.”

I replied, “Exactly, sir, I feel more distinguished as I am.”

Admiral Berkeley here interfered, saying, “Keppel, we are old friends.
The order comes so directly from Her Majesty that you cannot decline it
without offence.”

I replied, “Many thanks, sir, that is the last thing I would do.” Made
my bow and retired.

[Sidenote: Feb. 20.]

Attended levee. Dined with De Cliffords. Dance at Lady John Russell’s.
Evening party at Lady Mary Woods: everybody there!

[Sidenote: Feb. 22.]

Attended Installation of the Order of the Bath at Buckingham Palace;
was decorated with the Companionship by Her Majesty!

[Sidenote: London, Mar. 8.]

Dined with brother George to meet my new, pretty niece Sophy Bury.

[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]

By train to Portsmouth.

[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]

Inspected gunboats at Motherbank. Dined with Fred Pelham to meet
Admiral Hon. Sir R. Dundas. Getting _Colossus_ cabin ready. Mid-day
visit to Motherbank.

[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Mar. 12.]

On usual morning attendance on the Commander-in-Chief. Sir George,
looking unusually serious, said: “I am afraid I must address you as
‘Captain Keppel.’ I have repeatedly spoken about the carelessness of
officers in command of gunboats, and now I find that one of your
Division has been trying to break through Ryde Pier. Now the damage
done by them, chiefly at night, averages £85 per week.” I was sorry,
and ventured to ask how he knew the culprit belonged to my Division?
He replied, “By the number on the bow.” To which I said, “I beg your
pardon, sir, the most mischievous of these young scamps, when going at
night where they ought not, carry spare boards with any number on them
but their own.” He rang the bell and sent for the board, which luckily
proved to be that of the only gunboat that was, and had been fitting
alongside the _Colossus_! I think the Admiral was as pleased as myself
at the mistake. Clifford and I dined with Hope to meet Sir Richard
Dundas, now our Baltic Chief.

[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]

On a visit to my kinsman H. H. Lindsay at West Dean, a charming place
in Sussex.

[Sidenote: Mar. 16.]

Palm Sunday. Afternoon walked to Goodwood, Duke and Duchess out. Lady
Cecilia looking lovely; Lady William Paget charming. Got drenched
walking back.

[Sidenote: Mar. 17.]

Early train, _via_ Chichester, to Portsmouth. Of course, plenty to
attend to. _Pelter_, commanded by Lieutenant H. Round, my gunboat for
the week.

[Sidenote: Mar. 18.]

Shifted shore quarters to Portland Hotel. Dined with Commander-in-Chief.

[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]

To the Motherbank. Got Division under weigh round the Nab. Some
successful manœuvring.

[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]

By afternoon train to Chichester. Met at station by George Lennox. With
him to Goodwood. So kindly received. Most enjoyable.

[Sidenote: Goodwood, Mar. 23.]

Easter Sunday. To morning service. Walk after church to West Dean to
luncheon. Walked back, having taken another pleasanter walk with the
excellent Duchess.

[Sidenote: 1856. Mar. 24.]

Lords March and George Lennox returning with me for a cruise in
gunboats. Flotilla under weigh. They much pleased. Dined with
Commander-in-Chief. First Lord and Admiral Berkeley there.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Admiralty Lords in _Black Eagle_. _Colossus_ and gunboats under weigh
by signal, and proceeded in company to Portland. Lord Mulgrave, H.
Corry, and party on board. Dined on board _Black Eagle_.

[Sidenote: Portland, Mar. 26.]

Breakfasted on board _Black Eagle_. Inspected with First Lord the works
in progress. Easterly wind, too strong for gunboats to return with
_Black Eagle_. Dined with Lord Mulgrave on board _Titania_ yacht. Slept
where I dined.

[Sidenote: Mar. 27.]

On board _Colossus_ to breakfast.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

Luncheon with Lady Hastings. Montagu Thomas taking me to Dorchester. By
rail to Southampton and Portsmouth.

[Sidenote: Portsmouth.]

Luncheon with Cousin Cecilia Yorke. _Colossus_ with gunboats arriving
in afternoon from Portland. Reported them and self to Admiral.

[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]

Peace proclaimed at Paris; great illuminations and rejoicings.

[Sidenote: Apr. 1.]

Took up quarters on board _Colossus_ in harbour.

[Sidenote: Apr. 3.]

Stanley Graham joined ship and dined with me.

[Sidenote: Apr. 8.]

My White Division giving a ball at Ryde. The best that had been given,
so they all said!

[Sidenote: Apr. 9.]

Slept at Ryde Pier Hotel for a few hours. Went to Lady Hastings with
cousin Cecilia.

[Sidenote: Apr. 11.]

Arrived _Conqueror_, _Exmouth_, and _Dee_. Commander-in-Chief came out
in _Fire Queen_, and inspected position of gunboats.

[Sidenote: Spithead, Apr. 14.]

11 A.M.--Weighed, and proceeded to Spithead to take station in line
with the fleet in Port Division.

[Sidenote: Apr. 15.]

_Imperieuse_ and _Desperate_ arrived and took station.

[Sidenote: Apr. 16.]

Arrived _Euryalus_ and _Falcon_. Division of gunboats under weigh
exercising.

[Sidenote: Apr. 17.]

[Sidenote: Apr. 18.]

Arrived _Pylades_, _Amphion_, and _Centurion_. 1 P.M.--Fleet weighed to
exercise. Sir George Seymour’s flag flying in _Arrogant_. Stood round
pivot-ship, and returned to station in line at Spithead.

[Sidenote: Apr. 19.]

_Rodney_ and _London_, took station as pivot-ships off the Nab.

[Sidenote: Apr. 20.]

_Sea-horse_ arrived. Gunboats arriving daily.

[Sidenote: Spithead, Apr. 23.]

Grand Review of the whole Fleet. Noon, fired Royal Salute as Her
Majesty passed up between the two lines, followed by the four Divisions
of gunboats. First and Second Division leading with two gunboats each,
making four abreast. As soon as the gunboats had passed through and
divided to starboard and port round the headmost ships of the Line,
the whole Fleet weighed and stood to the southward, and so round the
pivot-ships. The gunboats having taken position in front of Southsea
beach afterwards opened fire on a signal from Royal Yacht. Her Majesty
returned into harbour under a second Royal Salute from the whole Fleet,
the ships coming to an anchor in prescribed order. 9 P.M.--The whole
Fleet illuminated and burnt rockets.

[Sidenote: Apr. 29.]

4.30 P.M.--Weighed with the White Division, ran down to Spithead for
orders. 5.30.--Proceeded to eastward.

[Sidenote: Apr. 30.]

Communicated in gunboats with Dover. 10.40.--Rounded to in the Downs
and received pilot. Ran through Princes Channel. 8.10.--Came to off the
Little Nore. White Division in company.

[Sidenote: May 1.]

6.20 A.M.--Weighed with White Division. Saluted flag of Rear-Admiral
Honourable William Gordon, and proceeded into harbour. Moored on north
side. Proceeded by permission to London.

[Sidenote: Boulogne, May 2.]

The proclamation of peace affected movements of Division of gunboats,
which had been destined to take part in operations in the Baltic. After
breakfast to Admiralty. Offer of Broad Pennant in India. Would a duck
like a swim! By steamer to Boulogne. Friend Admiral Julien de Gravière
on board. We lunched on board Sir John Bayley’s yacht _Nymph_.

[Sidenote: May 5.]

9 A.M. steamer to Folkestone. By train to Shoreditch, so to Romford;
met by Mark Wood, with him to his place, Bishop’s Hall, and his
charming wife, Miss Williams that was. Lady Thorold too, from
Lincolnshire, so sorry could not stay longer.

[Sidenote: May 12.]

[Sidenote: May 14.]

To Sheerness, dined with the Vice-Admiral, Sir William Gordon, a dear
steady old gentleman: at table, good for five hours. He had invited
Frank Scott and Henry Yorke to dinner. Usual routine with division of
gunboats.

[Sidenote: May 29.]

On arriving at St. George’s Place, Harry Stephenson informed me that
_Colossus_ had sailed for Crimea. At Admiralty, ascertained that _Royal
George_ and _Colossus_ had passed the Downs. I being on leave, Captain
Robinson had been reappointed to _Colossus_. Telegraphed to detain
_Centurion_ or _Royal George_ for me at Plymouth.

[Sidenote: May 30.]

By 1 P.M. train, arriving 2 A.M. at Morshead’s, Plymouth.

[Sidenote: May 31.]

Daylight brought in _Royal George_, _Colossus_ having passed on. Found
that my telegraph to Torquay had effected what I wanted. At 8 sailed in
_Royal George_ from Plymouth.

[Sidenote: At Sea, June 2.]

Making a fine weather passage. An idler I.

[Sidenote: June 6.]

Once more the Rock of Gibraltar in sight. 9 A.M.--Came to in the Bay.
Went on shore to the good George Greys, 10 P.M.--_Colossus_ arrived.

[Sidenote: June 7.]

Stewart Paget coming on board for a cruise. 7 P.M.--Weighed and steamed
out of the Bay.

[Sidenote: Malta, June 14.]

Arrived in Malta. Ship coaled and ready before dark, but a little rest
for stokers necessary.

[Sidenote: June 15.]

Cast off from buoy, 4 A.M.

[Sidenote: June 18.]

Once again in the Archipelago, having passed Cape St. Angelo in middle
watch. Should have been at Queen’s Ball to-night “if not otherwise
engaged.”

[Sidenote: June 19.]

Entered the Dardanelles. Met _Queen_ full of troops in tow of
_Terrible_.

[Sidenote: June 20.]

In the Sea of Marmora. 1 P.M.--Anchored in the Golden Horn.

[Sidenote: June 21.]

3 P.M.--Weighed; ordered by Rear-Admiral Sir F. Grey to tow transport
up the Bosphorus!

[Sidenote: Crimea, June 23.]

Anchored off Kazatch. In Comber’s steamer _Viper_ to Sevastopol
Harbour. Visited north side, from maintop of _Twelve Apostles_, brought
away slings of main yard. Went over fortifications, docks, Malakoff and
Redan. Rode to Cathcart’s Hill. Visited graves of my two friends.

[Sidenote: June 24.]

Luncheon at headquarters. With Charlie Windham to Balaclava. Dined with
Freemantle, and slept on board _Leander_.

[Sidenote: June 25.]

_Colossus_ off the harbour by 7.30. Embarked 754 officers and men of
the 44th Regiment. Old friend Colonel Charles Stanley in command. Out
and away at 10.30. Percy Herbert and Romaine on board.

[Sidenote: June 26.]

Ran past Constantinople during the afternoon, telegraphing to Flag,
without stopping, the regiment and number of troops on board. Clear
away without a trooper in tow!

[Sidenote: June 27.]

_Centurion_ full of fuel, and with a clean bottom, steamed past us
this morning in an unpleasant manner. Clear of Dardanelles. Found a
slashing north-easter blowing.

[Sidenote: June 28.]

I have often thought how easy it would have been with our united fleets
to have stopped up the mouth of Sevastopol Harbour between Forts
Nicholas and St. Michael. We had material enough in useless old ships
to block the entrance assisted by the débris from the aforesaid Forts,
where during the winter months, mud washed down from the rivers and
adjacent streams would have formed a lake, to be continually renewed
until it became arable, and in some future time the farmer’s plough
might strike the _Vladimir’s_ funnel or remove the head of the _Twelve
Apostles_.

[Sidenote: June 29.]

Passed through the Doro passage in middle watch and rounded Cape St.
Angelo.

Fuel falling short: obliged to economize, always a bore! Was in too
great a hurry passing Constantinople. Divine Service to troops and
seamen.

4 P.M.--Fell in with a collier consigned to French Government, she not
knowing of her whereabouts eased her of fifty tons.

[Sidenote: Malta, July 1.]

Arrived at Malta before 8 A.M. Admiral the Hon. Sir Montague Stopford
in command. Coaled, and off by 4 P.M.

[Sidenote: July 2.]

Rounded Cape Bon. Impatient I!

[Sidenote: July 8.]

6 A.M.--Anchored at Gibraltar. While coaling passed time pleasantly
enough between George Grey and Pagets. Dined with the General. Got
everybody on board by 11 P.M. Weighed at midnight.

[Sidenote: Spithead, July 18.]

At daylight passed the Needles, and at an early hour anchored at
Spithead, within two hours of _Centurion_. George Lennox dined with
me on board, returned his binoculars. Her Majesty passing through
Spithead came close by _Colossus_. Great cheering.

[Sidenote: Spithead, July 19.]

Disembarked troops. No men could have behaved better than our 44th
throughout the voyage. Dined with the good Admiral, Sir George Seymour.

[Sidenote: July 21.]

_Colossus_ coming into harbour, accompanied Admiral and family to
Cowes. Wrote my name in lodge-book at Osborne.

[Sidenote: July 23.]

By 2.30 train to London; put up with Harry Stephenson. To Haymarket, by
appointment with Lord William Paget.

[Sidenote: July 24.]

Edward Eyre to breakfast. Hack cab to Twickenham to dine with Dowager
Lady Albemarle.

[Sidenote: July 29.]

Letter from Sir Charles Wood announcing his intention of giving me a
broad pennant in India. Started by train for Chichester. Thomas and I
to Goodwood Races. Sent traps to West Dean, walked there from races.

[Sidenote: Goodwood, July 30.]

To Goodwood Races. Met many friends: George Payne, Admiral Rous, T.
Whichcote, Crosbie, Joseph Hawley, Colonel Vansittart, etc. Dined at
Goodwood. Found General Barnard on return to West Dean.

[Sidenote: July 31.]

Cup Day. Sent traps to Goodwood and took up quarters which had been
vacated by H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge. Dinner for sixty each day.

[Sidenote: Aug. 1.]

Another splendid day. After races went to West Dean to take leave.
Duchess and party to Chichester Ball.

[Sidenote: Aug. 2.]

To Drayton Station by 8.30 train to London. Lost portmanteau. To club;
met General Barnard. At Antrobus with Romaine to Jack Templer, and
arranged the foundation of a reconciliation between Brooke and the
Eastern Archipelago Company--a most desirable event. Back to London
Bridge Station--no tidings of lost portmanteau--horrid bore! By 4.30
train to Snodlands and Leyburn Grange. Found Georgie and Sara Hawley,
Coleraine and Diana coming afterwards. A love of a place this Grange.
Everything in good taste and perfect order.

Interesting inspection of Hawley’s extensive paddocks. Dinner and
cooking in keeping with everything else in this cheery spot.

[Sidenote: Aug. 5.]

Visited Commander-in-Chief. Dined with Cashers. Portmanteau recovered
by the good “Thomas”[3] at Drayton Station.

[3] The Rev. Josias Thompson.

[Sidenote: Aug. 8.]

To Cowes Regatta Ball with Lady Montagu and Miss Leeds. Good ball.

[Sidenote: Aug. 9.]

Started for Portsmouth. Went on board _Royal George_. Found Henry Yorke
in sick bay with sprained ankle. Brought him on shore.

[Sidenote: Aug. 11.]

“Thomas” and I by steamer to Cowes Regatta. Sailed in Frankland’s
_Stella_.

[Sidenote: Aug. 12.]

Visited Admiral, who gave me his likeness.

[Sidenote: Aug. 16.]

With Admiral in _Fire Queen_ to Spithead, he visiting Sardinian and
Dutch frigates. To an afternoon _déjeûner_ at Lord and Lady Downes at
beautiful Binstead.

[Sidenote: Aug. 18.]

Made calls with Henry Seymour. Dined with Admiral Sir George Seymour to
meet Dutch officers, he taking us all to Southsea rooms. Dancing!

[Sidenote: Aug. 21.]

Dined with Admiral. Letter from Torquay deciding that Henry Yorke’s
health will prevent his going to India.

[Sidenote: Aug. 24.]

Hired a fourwheeler and got kicked out, but succeeded in getting to
Northlands before dinner was over.

[Sidenote: Osborne, Aug. 26.]

Prince Victor and self were to dine at Osborne, he having a room
there. We crossed early. Strolling by self in afternoon, came suddenly
on Her Majesty and the Prince Consort. Tried to get behind a bush--too
late! Was beckoned to by Her Majesty, who appeared in the best of
spirits. The Queen asked me how I liked the change of uniform. Replied,
“I like it very much, your Majesty, but this morning I was taken for
a railway official.” At this Her Majesty laughed heartily, giving His
Royal Highness a little nudge, and added: “Have they not taken away
your epaulettes?” Unfortunately I did not then know the improvement was
His Royal Highness’s idea. Took in Lady Caroline Barrington to dinner.
Concert afterwards, it being Prince Albert’s birthday; and a dance in
servants’ hall, which was attended by charming Lady Churchill, Miss
Cathcart and household. English country dance, Roger de Coverley, etc.:
great fun! Slept at Osborne.

[Sidenote: Aug. 27.]

Her Majesty and family off at 10 for London. Returned by 5 P.M. boat to
Portsmouth.

[Sidenote: Aug. 28.]

Called on Sir George and Lady Seymour. Off Slaughter House Pier Thomas
tried Francis’ patent iron lifeboat, and was nearly drowned. We dined
with George Lennox.

[Sidenote: Aug. 29.]

Board of Admiralty arrived.

[Sidenote: Aug. 30.]

Sir Charles Wood informed me that he had decided on my hoisting the
broad pennant in the _Raleigh_ for East Indies.

[Sidenote: Aug. 31.]

Went over _Raleigh_ with Turnour: a magnificent frigate. Last of the
sailers.




CHAPTER LXIII

THE _RALEIGH_


[Sidenote: 1856. Sept. 1.]

Portsmouth.--Dined with Admiral-Superintendent to meet First Lord and
Board.

[Sidenote: Sept. 2.]

Morning’s post brought letters for the Commodore! Dined with Sir
Charles Wood and Board of Admiralty at George Hotel; jolly on the whole.

[Sidenote: Sept. 3.]

Admiralty Board off to town.

[Sidenote: Sept. 4.]

Took up commission for _Raleigh_. Pennant hoisted by boatswain’s
wife--good-looking woman, ought to bring luck!

[Sidenote: London, Sept. 5.]

No end of business at Admiralty getting officers appointed, etc.

[Sidenote: Chichester, Sept. 13.]

Breakfast and shot with Sir Maurice Berkeley; 11½ brace between us.
Dined and slept there.

[Sidenote: Sept. 19.]

Started on parting visits. By 8 P.M. train from Euston Station for
Aberdeen. Travelling all night, and still whirling along.

[Sidenote: Sept. 20.]

[Sidenote: Gordon Castle, Sept. 21.]

From Aberdeen by train to Huntly. Picked up there by Prince Edward of
Saxe-Weimar in britzska and conveyed to Gordon Castle; cordial welcome
by everybody to this delightful place.

[Sidenote: Sept. 22.]

Drove with Duke and Duchess to the Sea. Lord and Lady Churchill
arrived. Deer-shooting party going some distance, was allowed with
keeper to shoot in park; made capital shot at a buck. Time passing
only too quickly.

[Sidenote: Sept. 24.]

Walk to bridge to see swollen Spey.

[Sidenote: Sept. 25.]

Shot another buck, cleverly too! Took leave of kind Duchess and friends.

[Sidenote: Sept. 26.]

Posted to Huntly; train to Aberdeen and Edinburgh. Put up at Graham’s
Hotel; oyster supper.

[Sidenote: Sept. 27.]

By train to Carlisle 9 A.M. Met Isteads, Horrocks, and Campbell. Posted
to Netherby. Kind and hearty welcome by Sir James and Lady Graham.
Bishop of Oxford here.

[Sidenote: Sept. 28.]

Forenoon service at Longtown, sermon by Bishop: an excellent and
forcible preacher as well as a most agreeable man.

[Sidenote: Sept. 29.]

Went out shooting with young Graham; 20 brace partridges.

[Sidenote: Ashwarby Park, Sept. 30.]

Early fly to Carlisle. Train to Newcastle, York, and Grantham. Posted
to Ashwarby Park. Whichcote away shooting, not having received my
letter. Lady Whichcote at home, three Miss Yorkes, and Mrs. Turner.

[Sidenote: Oct. 2.]

Rode to Syston; found Cecilia Yorke and Mrs. Broke Turner. Lady Thorold
very nice; men shooting. After luncheon with ladies to Grantham.
I to Newark and Lincoln by train and dogcart--joined Whichcote’s
party--shooting over pointers: turnips, holding water by bucketsful.
George Fitzroy, Freke, G. Bentinck. Party bagged 80½ brace. After
dinner in dogcart to Lincoln. Slept at Great Northern.

[Sidenote: Norfolk, Oct. 3.]

By 7 train to Peterborough; on to Ely. Saw Cathedral. On by train to
Harling Road. Met by Eyre and family--my best friends.

[Sidenote: Oct. 4.]

After luncheon conveyed to Quidenham. Susan and girls, George, Mrs. and
Miss Trotter, Miss Hamilton, Mrs. Holford. Dear girls, my nieces. Am
again under the paternal roof. Slept in the room brother Francis died
in. To forenoon church, brother Edward performing.

[Sidenote: Oct. 7.]

By train to London. Business at Admiralty.

[Sidenote: Oct. 9.]

By express to Portsmouth. _Raleigh_ progressing.

[Sidenote: Oct. 10.]

Dined with Commander-in-Chief Admiral Sir George Seymour.

[Sidenote: Oct. 14.]

Before 10 superintended paying off _Cæsar_. Remained till 6 P.M.

[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]

Presented with handsome sword by much-esteemed young friend Henry
Seymour. [By permission, have since worn no other.]

[Sidenote: Oct. 17.]

Dined with Commander-in-Chief Martin, Lady Elizabeth Smith, and Sir
Charles Ogle, a fine old salt!

[Sidenote: Oct. 19.]

Dined on board _Nymph_ with Sir John and Lady Bayley.

[Sidenote: Oct. 20.]

Dined with Admiral to meet Oglanders.

[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]

Glad to find “Thomas” at lodgings. Harry Stephenson coming in afternoon.

[Sidenote: Oct. 27.]

Ship alongside hulk.

[Sidenote: London, Nov. 6.]

Lindsay up from West Dean. Took him to dine with Stephenson. Meeting
Albemarle and Bury.

[Sidenote: Nov. 11.]

As Commodore, left the fitting-out much to old shipmate, Commander
Turnour!

[Sidenote: Nov. 12.]

Wife and I by train to Portsmouth, where we put up at the comfortable
Quebec Hotel. Joined by friends Rev. E. Eyre and wife.

[Sidenote: Nov. 13.]

Attended Admiral at a meeting at the Sailor’s Home; had to propose a
resolution.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Sidenote: Nov. 15.]

It was the kind Commander-in-Chief’s intention to give me a
parting dinner on sailing of _Raleigh_. But to make clear a small
_contretemps_, I must explain. Among the Wardroom officers of the
_Raleigh_ was my old friend the Rev. Josias Thompson. He had been with
me many years, and, as is usual among old shipmates, had established
the nickname of “Thomas.” Many knew him, as did the kind Chief, by no
other. The morning for our leaving the regular Admiralty pilot, whose
name was Thomas, was on board. Two steam tugs ordered from Dockyard in
attendance; the wind being fair, had no idea, in a sailing frigate,
of being towed. Took charge, and was in the act of making sail, when
the dear Chief, who had been to Haslar to attend the funeral of an old
shipmate, suddenly appeared on board, and turning to me said, “Don’t
let me interfere, but is Mr. Thomas on board?” I said he was. “Where is
he?” “Forward on the starboard side, standing on a gun carriage.” I was
too busy making sail to go with him--the tide was rising. On inquiring
who had attended the Commander-in-Chief, I found that he had gone
forward, and making a bow to the pilot, stated that, as the Commodore
was going to take a parting dinner, he hoped to have the pleasure
of Mr. Thomas’s company. The ship ran out like the beauty she was,
saluting Admiral’s flag before coming to anchor.

Near dinner-time wife and self were among early arrivals. We noticed
a gentleman standing on the rug by the fire with a white choker and
new suit of clothes; no one seemed to know him. Dinner announced,
the Admiral took in my wife, I, Lady Seymour. The turtle soup had
been served, when the Admiral addressed our strange friend with, “Mr.
Thomas, will you have the goodness to say grace?” The poor Pilot’s
neighbour whispered to him, “Say ‘Thank God.’” Dinner over, the dear
Admiral nudged my wife, saying, “That’s a queer parson of yours.” And
then, in a louder voice, called out, “Mr. Thomas, have the goodness
to return thanks.” I at the same time asking Lady Seymour “who Mr.
Thomas was?” Lady Seymour turned to the butler and sent him to tell the
Admiral that Captain Keppel had never seen that man before. At this
moment some of the senior captains spotted our friend the pilot! He
never afterwards met his friends in Portsmouth that they did not ask
him to say grace.

[Sidenote: _Raleigh_, Nov. 17.]

Took leave of the clinker-built Quebec, the most comfortable hotel in
Portsmouth. Brother Tom and I dining in gunroom.

[Sidenote: Nov. 18.]

Inspected by Commander-in-Chief Sir George Seymour.

[Sidenote: Nov. 19.]

Paid farewell visits. “Thomas” and I dined with George Lennox. Friend
Edward Eyre arrived; embarked him and Lennox. After men’s dinner
weighed and ran out by St. Helen’s. Brother Tom, in ill-health, going
with me as far as the Cape of Good Hope.




CHAPTER LXIV

THE _RALEIGH_


[Sidenote: 1856. _Raleigh_, Nov. 20.]

A fine frigate has ever been the favourite class of ship with seamen as
well as officers, and I venture to state a finer crew never left a port.

List of officers:--

    _Commander_--Edward W. Turnour.
    _Secretary_--Matless G. Autey.
    _Lieutenants_--James G. Goodenough, Viscount Gilford, H.R.H. Prince
        Victor of Hohenlohe, James S. Graham, W. F. Johnson.
    _Master_--William H. Williams.
    _Captain of Marines_--Thomas Magin.
    _Second Lieutenant of Marines_--Charles L. Owen.
    _Chaplain_--Josiah Thompson.
    _Surgeon_--John T. Crawford.
    _Paymaster_--James G. G. Simmonds.
    _Naval Instructor_--John L. Laverty.
    _Assistant-Surgeon_--J. G. T. Forbes.
    _Midshipmen_--Lord Charles Scott, Hon. Victor A. Montagu,
        Hon. F. G. Crofton, Henry F. Stephenson, A. E. Dupuis,
        F. R. Foster, Hugh B. Hammersley, Edward Pilkington,
        A. Paget, Hardy M‘Hardy.

       *       *       *       *       *

[Sidenote: At Sea, Nov. 20.]

Friends Henry Seymour, Eyre, and George Lennox enjoying themselves.

[Sidenote: Nov. 21.]

Late in the evening before we came to Plymouth Sound.

[Sidenote: Nov. 22.]

Saluted Sir William Parker’s flag at 9 A.M. Called on Newmans at Royal
Hotel, where I took a room. Visited Hartmans at Saltram, where I
found my cousins Mrs. Yorke and daughter. Dined with Sam Truscott--a
character.

[Sidenote: Nov. 23.]

Breakfasted with Caroline and Louisa Newman. In afternoon Prince
Victor, Graham, Lord Charles Scott, Harry Stephenson, and I to Saltram
to dine and sleep.

[Sidenote: Nov. 24.]

Returned after breakfast to Plymouth. Took Cecilia Yorke and Miss
Coryton on board _Raleigh_.

[Sidenote: Nov. 25.]

Was allowed to see Lord Mount-Edgecumbe; cruel wreck of a handsome and
intellectual man. Too down to dine anywhere. Tea with Newman girls.

[Sidenote: Nov. 26.]

Weighed at 11 and ran out of the Sound. What may not happen before I
again land in England!

[Sidenote: Madeira, Dec. 9.]

Anchored before 1 in Funchal Roads. Kindly received by friend Stoddard,
putting up brother Tom and four youngsters. Hired for the time a horse
Miss O’Rorke used to ride.

[Sidenote: Dec. 10.]

Drove Miss Stoddard in pony carriage. Before leaving my brother-in-law,
Harry Stephenson, commissioned me to bring home a pipe of the best
Madeira. I applied to my friend of many years, now Consul, Mr.
Stoddard. He had ceased to be a wine merchant, and the remaining pipes
of the best were put aside as part of the marriage portion of his
charming daughters; he left it to me to make interest with them to
obtain a couple of pipes of this precious wine. I had the pipes encased
in extra casks and stowed in the hold of the _Raleigh_. (It is well I
did so.)

[Sidenote: Dec. 11.]

Prince Victor, good fellow! wishing another day in Madeira, consented
to remain over Friday. Rio given up. Rode with Miss Lund. Evening at
Stoddard’s.

[Sidenote: Dec. 12.]

“Thomas” and I rode over to the Beans. Same hospitable couple I had
sojourned with in 1824.

[Sidenote: Dec. 13.]

Weighed early. Everybody pleased with their visit to Madeira.

[Sidenote: At Sea, Dec. 23.]

A marine fell overboard, and was saved by a gallant fellow of the name
of Moodie, second-class ordinary. The night was dark, and the two
life-buoys let go by a marine, stationed for the purpose, without first
pulling the igniting trigger, were lost.

[Sidenote: Dec. 25.]

Christmas Day. All the youngsters and warrant officers, including
Turnour, Autey, Thompson, and brother Tom, to dine--sixteen in all. How
many of us will meet next Christmas! “Qui en sabe?”

[Sidenote: Dec. 26.]

Neptune came on board and performed the usual ceremonies.




CHAPTER LXV

CAPE TO CHINA


[Sidenote: 1857.]

[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Jan. 17.]

9 P.M.--Arrived in Simon’s Bay, just five weeks from Madeira, and the
fastest passage by a sailing ship on record.

[Sidenote: Jan. 18.]

This cape always brings happy recollections of bygone days, when I was
free as the air and without a care or thought beyond the present.

[Sidenote: Jan. 19.]

Hired a two-wheel pair-horse cart and drove brother Tom, three
youngsters, and Thompson to Cape Town. Parke’s hotel. Called with Tom
on Mrs. Stoll, Longmores, and the Lorentzs. At Lorentz’s met their
daughter Louisa, whom I had last seen as a pretty child, riding like a
boy on a goat. She was now a widow; the handsome mother of six children.

[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]

A regular Cape north-easter blowing. Nothing to be done afloat. Tom and
I breakfasting with the Stolls. Dined at _table d’hôte_--a large party.

[Sidenote: Jan. 21.]

To Sans Souci to call. Tea at Lorentz’s, meeting Stolls.

[Sidenote: Jan. 24.]

Landed £50,000 in gold; sent £300 in copper to _Penelope_. Governor
kindly lending his eight-horse waggon, started for Simon’s Bay, calling
at Sans Souci and on the Bishop.

[Sidenote: Jan. 29.]

Dined to-day with the midshipmen. We sat down twenty-four. Not only
was their mess good and comfortable, with everything clean and in good
taste, but one could not have met a nicer set of lads. They appeared in
clean white waistcoats. Felt proud of my boys!

[Sidenote: Mar. 9.]

At last we have rounded Acheen Head and passed through the “Surat”
passage into the Malacca Straits.

[Sidenote: Mar. 11.]

In a calm let go first anchor in India. From this date our _batta_
commences.

[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]

Came to in Penang Roads; was saluted. On landing took up my quarters
with friend Lewis. Old Jack Rodyk here. With Lewis, two daughters, one
just from England, and a Miss Neubrouner.

[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 13.]

Ship taking in water and otherwise getting ready, but contrary to my
religion to start on a Friday. Dined with Campbell, late of Singapore.

[Sidenote: Mar. 14.]

Weighed before daylight.

[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]

Came up with the barque on board of which were Miss Blundell and Amy
Neubrouner. Serenaded them in passing.

[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 19.]

Arrived in New Harbour; so altered and improved. Called on Governor,
who lodged me on the hill. Dined with Biddle at Adelphi; met Anabassim:
the rogue still alive.

[Sidenote: Mar. 20.]

The saddest news of a treacherous and murderous attack made by Chinese
on my noble friend, James Brooke, at Sarawak. Dear and noble Rajah,
would that I could rush to his assistance.

[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 21.]

Received a “welcome back” in an address signed by most of the
residents. Dined with Sir William Hoste on board _Spartan_.

[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]

Dined with friend Davidson in his new capacity of married man.

[Sidenote: Mar. 23.]

Dined with Napier and his wife, meeting Mrs. Earle with a ten-year-old
child, a most promising filly! (Met her again as Mrs. Alt.)

[Sidenote: Mar. 24.]

_Spartan_, Sir William Hoste, starting in tow of steamer to the
assistance of Brooke, taking Prince Victor with him, to rejoin us at
Hong-Kong. Delayed departure until after dark. Dined with Governor
Blundell.

[Sidenote: Mar. 25.]

Weighed in the night.

[Sidenote: Mar. 28.]

Poor Laverty departed this life at 2. Yesterday week overtook him and
Owen walking up from new harbour to Singapore in the heat of the day,
and admonished them for their rashness. They have since been delirious
with fever, which in Laverty’s case ended fatally.

[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]

Committed the remains of poor Laverty to the deep. How preferable such
a burial and grave to a shore funeral!

[Sidenote: April 13.]

During the forenoon passed through bamboo fishing buoys, too numerous
to be avoided, but we did them no injury, the bamboo floating
perpendicularly some six or eight feet out of the water, and
distinguished by a small flag or rag on the top.

[Sidenote: April 14.]

Early, we made the land to the southward of Macao. Shortly after noon,
running through the usual passage between the islands--guns loaded to
salute the flag--I had just signed the usual returns, when we felt as
if the ship had struck some heavy floating timber: the leadsman calling
“By the mark, seven,” at the same time reports from the lower deck that
daylight could be seen through the rent in the ship’s side. We beat
to quarters: an unusual event during the men’s dinner hour! I knew we
were nearly equidistant from Hong-Kong and Macao. I took a second view
from below. With the easterly wind we might fetch Hong-Kong, but for
Macao, we should have to run before it. We bore up. My trusty Turnour
repeated orders clearly and distinctly. I took charge of the conning
of the ship, the men working cheerfully. My object was to ground in
shoal water. While running we passed so close to more than one small
island that a man might have dropped on shore from the rigging. After
a while, from the hammock-netting where I stood, a ship at anchor off
Macao was seen. With a glass we made her out to be a frigate flying the
French Admiral’s flag. The first lieutenant was directed to lower fore
royal, hoist French flag and fire a salute. The foremost main-deck guns
had been run aft to prevent the ship from settling forward; they were
already loaded for our own flag. Most of our after-ports had more than
one muzzle protruding. A boat was seen coming from the French ship, but
there was nothing to show that we were in distress beyond our ensign at
the peak, hoisted Union Jack downwards, which could not be seen from
Macao on account of studding sails. It was a few minutes after this, I
felt we were nearing the bottom. By feeling the bow rise ever so gently
I knew we had touched the mud-bank between the Roko and Typa Islands.
The French boat was alongside before we knew that we were no longer
forging ahead.

The officer was quickly informed what had happened. The frigate was the
_Virginie_, carrying the flag of Rear-Admiral Guérin, who came himself
to see how he could help us. His officer met him at the gangway and
without delay explained what had happened. The gallant Guérin no longer
thought of nationalities. He embraced and kissed me, exclaiming, “C’est
magnifique! C’est magnifique!” A British frigate saluting the French
flag while sinking! If we had been French we could not have received
more kind assistance. In the meantime marines with their officers were
landed to clear the island of Chinese, and select a suitable place for
our encampment. When the ship stopped in the mud at 3 P.M., she had ten
feet of water in the hold. By eight o’clock she had eighteen. With the
assistance of our allies, the ship’s company’s hammocks and bags, goods
and chattels, as well as ship’s sails, had been landed. On the way
out we had built a bridge across before the mizen-mast, and over the
wheel. On this I remained, the kind Frenchmen sending me food and some
uncommon good claret. The French Admiral had despatched the _Catinat_
with Lieutenant Goodenough to Hong-Kong.

[Sidenote: April 15.]

_Bittern_, Lieutenant Butler, arrived.

[Sidenote: April 16.]

The Admiral, Sir Michael Seymour, who had been absent, came himself.
The ship settled down in her soft bed as if she intended never to rise
again.

[Sidenote: April 17.]

Captain Keith Stewart, _Nankin_, 50, and _Inflexible_ arrived; we
really did not require them.

       *       *       *       *       *

The Commander-in-Chief was now busy preparing for the destruction of
the China Fleet, which, being up rivers and creeks, our men were more
useful in boats than on board ship.

[Sidenote: April 20.]

My broad pennant was hoisted on board the _Alligator_, hospital ship.
With the _Raleigh’s_ crew alone we dismantled and cleared the ship
even to the ballast. It was something to get lower masts out, and with
the assistance of our spars only. The bowsprit was the most difficult.
Clearing the holds was disagreeable. After a while the bilge water
began to smell. My two pipes of Madeira, fortunately double-cased,
were not affected. After the ship’s stores we looked out for
ourselves. Chronometers, etc., were removed to my cabin, under sentry’s
charge--from there, with a trustworthy crew of five men and a coxswain,
to the _Alligator_. Later, my steward, no more trusty man in the ship
except my coxswain, Spurrier, came to me with sad face to state that
Lord Gilford’s pet chronometer watch, which was kept and used with
those of the Government, was missing! Search was made in vain, poor
White offering £10 reward.

[Sidenote: Macao.]

Those princely merchants, Dent and Co., as well as Mathieson, kept open
house. They lived in palaces. I had apartments at the Dents’ bungalow
at Hong Kong as well as rooms at Macao--passenger steamers running
daily. On a late occasion the Chinese passengers had risen, took
possession, murdered the Europeans. A ship’s captain, Cleverly by name,
as well as by nature, jumped overboard. He was badly wounded while
swimming, but was picked up and had rooms at Dent’s Macao house. I need
not say that after this Chinese passengers were accommodated in an iron
cage, where they enjoyed their opium.

[Sidenote: April 24.]

Lieutenants Prince Victor and Johnson, who had gone with Hoste in
_Spartan_ from Singapore to visit Rajah Brooke at Sarawak, rejoined us.

[Sidenote: Hong Kong, April 25.]

The dockyard at Hong Kong full of _Raleigh’s_ stores, guns, anchors,
cables, shot, etc.--sails spread out to dry.

[Sidenote: April 28.]

Excellent dinner at French Minister’s. Madame Bourboulon charming.
Smokes regalias only.

[Sidenote: April 29.]

Renewed acquaintance with pretty Mrs. Endicott and Mrs. Parkes.

[Sidenote: April 30.]

Mail arrived. Ministers beaten on China question. Parliament to be
dissolved: nevertheless, Plenipo and troops coming out. Inspection
held on my _Raleigh_. My boys, Victor Montagu and Harry Stephenson, on
shore.

_Macao, May 1._

Letter from Turnour’s brother asking me to break to that good-hearted
fellow the death of his father. Went on board in Gibb’s yacht, the
_Zouave_. Dined with him.

[Sidenote: May 3.]

Hope my _Raleigh_ will be got up. Doubts whether Admiral will attempt
it.

[Sidenote: Hong Kong, May 5.]

Met Admiral and large party at dinner at Dent’s. Judge Hulm fine old
fellow.

[Sidenote: May 6.]

Gilford and I to dine with Pereira and William Dent. Excellent dinner
and everything to match.

[Sidenote: May 7.]

Business with my worthy chief about _Calcutta_; transferred youngsters
to that ship.

[Sidenote: May 12.]

Great and good feed at friend Cane’s, now Lieutenant-Governor. Dinner
to meet me. Some six-and-twenty sat down.

[Sidenote: May 13.]

Arrival of _Highflyer_ and gunboats. With Admiral in _Coromandel_ to
visit vessels in Canton River. Came to near _Sybille_ below second fort.

[Sidenote: May 14.]

Went on as far as Macao Fort. Left _Raleigh’s_ band there. All the
vessels, as well as their commanders, ready for work. Came to near
_Niger_. Mandarin junks’ masts in sight.

[Sidenote: May 18.]

Tenders for raising _Raleigh_ not such as the Admiral could accept.
Alas! my poor ship--now to be considered _lost_; she must be sold where
she is, and I to be tried by court-martial!

[Sidenote: May 21.]

Laid up the last three days, attended by kind Doctor Anderson.




INDEX


  Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. 333

  Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. 72

  Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148
    Sir Charles, ii. 46

  Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. 55

  Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246

  Aden, iii. 118, 119

  Admiralty Islands, ii. 150

  _Adventure_, iii. 174, 180

  _Africa_, i. 7, 12, 13

  Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201

  Ailesbury, Lady, iii. 322

  Ainos, the, iii. 199

  Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. 235

  _Alabama_, iii. 83

  Åland Islands, ii. 232

  Albany, ii. 142

  _Albatross_, ii. 81, 127

  Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59
    William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, 248, 249, 251,
        252, 253, 254, 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58
    Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; _see_ Keppel
    George Thomas, 6th Earl; _see_ Keppel
    Lord, i. 14

  Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324;
        iii. 38, 39, 78, 80

  Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. 143, 171, 192, 194, 236, 237, 259

  Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. 18, 117

  Alfred, Prince; _see_ Edinburgh, Duke of

  _Algerine_, iii. 224

  Algoa Bay, iii. 46

  Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84

  Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. 125

  Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190

  Allen, R. C., ii. 3

  _Alligator_, ii. 337; iii. 2, 8

  Allison, William, ii. 160

  Alma, the, ii. 240

  Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121

  _Amazon_, ii. 115

  Amboyna, ii. 147

  _America_ yacht, ii. 203

  Amoor River, iii. 192, 210

  Amoy, iii. 138, 139, 220

  _Amphion_, ii. 47, 234

  Amping, iii. 224

  Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255

  Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42

  Anjer, ii. 129

  Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12
    Thomas, i. 7, 163
    Hon. William, i. 8, 22

  Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273

  Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. 69

  Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222

  Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14

  Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46

  Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171

  _Auckland_, ii. 77, 79

  _Aurora_, i. 14, 43, 44, 61

  Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152

  _Australia_, ii. 128, 129


  Bahia; _see_ San Salvador

  Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. 320
    Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123

  Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262

  Balambangan, ii. 94, 127

  Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81

  Bali Island, ii. 131

  Baltic, the, ii. 220

  Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146

  Bankok, iii. 229

  Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243

  Barbadoes, i. 56, 108

  Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200

  Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201

  Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279

  Barösund, ii. 226

  Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51

  Barton, A., ii. 3

  _Basilisk_, iii. 192

  Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2

  Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131

  Bathurst, iii. 72

  Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171

  Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 36

  Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201

  Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139

  Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97

  Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3

  Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18

  Belem, ii. 213

  Bell, Admiral, iii. 177

  _Belleisle_, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277

  _Bellerophon_, i. 200

  Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. 101, 109;
    _see_ Cavendish-Bentinck

  Beresford, Lord James, i. 187
    Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121

  Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163
    Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163
    Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. 29

  Bessani; _see_ Grand Bessani

  “Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70

  _Bittern_, iii. 1

  Black Sea, ii. 251

  Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199

  Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44
    Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88

  Blakiston, Captain, iii. 238

  Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123

  Bogue Forts, ii. 54

  Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238

  Bombay, iii. 14

  Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177

  Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288

  Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. 127

  Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164

  Boto Fogo, i. 36

  Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278

  _Bouncer_, iii. 234

  Bourbon, i. 85

  Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244

  Bowles, Admiral, iii. 281

  Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177

  Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262

  Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157

  Bozin, Prince, iii. 180, 181

  Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227

  Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162

  _Brazen_, i. 41, 42, 97

  Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134

  Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210

  Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168

  _Brisk_, iii. 45

  Brooke, Brooke, iii. 11
    Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, 312, 313, 317, 319,
        333, 339; ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61,
        62, 63, 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127,
        202, 322, 334; iii. 11, 13, 29, 96, 115, 123, 220

  Brooker, Commander, iii. 194, 260

  Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97
    Lord, i. 11, 177

  Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. 25

  Broughton, Lord, i. 97

  Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45

  Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. 126

  Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. 326

  Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. 82

  Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. 40

  Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84

  Buffalo River, iii. 46

  Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210

  Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42

  Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55

  Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263

  Bunting, ii. 21

  Buonaparte; _see_ Napoleon

  Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14

  Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. 115, 124

  Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. 56

  Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122

  Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71

  Bury, Viscount, i. 254

  Bush, Commander, iii. 221
    Mr., ii. 116

  Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76

  Byng, H., ii. 48

  Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43


  Cabrera, General, i. 188

  Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111

  Cairo, iii. 18

  Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334

  _Calcutta_, iii. 3

  Calderon, Don, i. 195

  _Caledonia_, i. 168, 170, 200

  Calverley, S., ii. 3

  _Cambrian_, ii. 46

  Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. 25, 322

  Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, 301
    Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244

  Canning, George, i. 25

  _Canopus_, i. 169, 170, 171, 176

  Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267

  Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. 132, 231
    River, ii. 15; iii. 8

  Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221

  Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71

  Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, 159, 202, 262

  Cape Town, iii. 67

  Caroline, Queen, i. 8

  Carteret, Captain, ii. 152

  Carthagena, i. 59, 198

  Casher, E., ii. 55, 199

  Castries Bay, iii. 214

  Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153

  Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125

  Celebes Islands, ii. 108

  Ceram Islands, ii. 146

  Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339

  Challier, Commodore, iii. 274

  Charlotte, Princess, i. 6

  Chefoo, iii. 172, 192, 264

  Chernaze, ii. 263

  Chersonese; _see_ Khersonese

  Chesterfield, Lord, iii. 328

  Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271

  _Childers_, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, 198, 244, 272, 274

  Chin-kiang, iii. 221, 238

  Christmas Island, ii. 75

  Church, Thomas, ii. 77

  Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, 280

  Chusan, i. 266, 277

  Ciervo Island, ii. 188

  Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68

  Clarendon, Lord, iii. 265

  Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143

  Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84
    Lady de, i. 52

  _Clio_, i. 190, 191, 272

  Clyde, Lord; _see_ Campbell, Sir Colin

  Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53

  Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136

  Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27
    Admiral Sir Thomas; _see_ Dundonald (“Young”), iii. 4

  _Cockchafer_, iii. 187, 233

  Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68
    Colonel, ii. 46

  Coghlan, Colonel, iii. 118

  Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201
    Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. 19
    Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, 278

  Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83
    Lady Frances, i. 78

  Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; ii. 47, 82,
        128

  Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13

  _Colombo_, ii. 270

  Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195

  _Colossus_, ii. 312

  _Columbine_, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; ii. 116

  Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48
    Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87

  Comba Island, ii. 132

  Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, 125, 128

  Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73

  Conolly, Mr., iii. 143, 192

  Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312

  Conti, General, i. 189

  Cook, Captain, ii. 153

  Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105

  Cook’s Straits, ii. 169

  Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49

  _Cormorant_, ii. 199; iii. 139

  _Cornwallis_, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331

  Corromanli, Ali, i. 172
    Youssuf, i. 171

  Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231

  Corvé Bay, iii. 173, 191

  Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105

  Courtenay, Captain, iii. 198

  Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208

  Creighton, Captain, iii. 187

  Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244

  Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105

  Crosbie, Catherine; _see_ Lady Keppel
    General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253, 255; ii. 27
    “Dob,” iii. 145
    Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251
    William, ii. 55

  _Cumberland_, ii. 235; iii. 115

  Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. 76

  _Cygnet_, ii. 40


  D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289

  Dalarö Channel, ii. 224

  Dalkeith, Lord, iii. 326

  Daniell, Commander, ii. 127

  Darby, G. S., ii. 3

  Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249

  _Dauntless_, ii. 230, 231

  Davis, Sir John, ii. 111

  de Grey, Lord, iii. 322

  de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. 44, 45, 55

  Delagoa Bay, iii. 46

  De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. 118

  Delmé, George, i. 81

  Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163

  Dent, John, and Co., iii. 143

  Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228

  D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73

  _Dido_, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii.
        1, 29, 30

  Digby, Lord, i. 12
    Edward, i. 12, 98
    Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219
    Admiral Hon. R., i. 12

  D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. 230

  Dixcove, i. 213-215

  D’Orsay, Count, i. 163.

  Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304

  Dover, Lord, ii. 201

  Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185

  Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28

  Drummond, Edward, ii. 26

  Duè, iii. 215

  Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119
    Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201
    Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244

  Dundee, iii. 111

  Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, 278, 280, 322, 331;
        ii. 68, 212

  Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77

  _Dupleix_, iii. 186, 187, 227

  Dupplin, Lord, iii. 323


  Eager, John, ii. 7

  Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115

  Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127

  East London, Port of, iii. 46

  Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47

  Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. 40, 278, 284-315

  _Edinburgh_, i. 169, 170

  Elgin, Lord, iii. 10, 241

  Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191

  Ellice, Robert, ii. 116

  Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127

  Ellis and Co., iii. 223

  Elphinstone, Lord, iii. 14

  Emhammud, i. 172

  Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. 323

  Emot, Captain, iii. 177

  _Endymion_, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, 278

  Enslie, Consul, iii. 298

  Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164

  Esche, Mr., iii. 194, 202

  _Espoir_, i. 68, 69, 77, 86

  Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144

  Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. 218

  Eupatoria, ii. 261

  Europa Island, iii. 50

  Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260

  Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278


  Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195

  Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127

  Fatshan Creek, iii. 2

  Fernando Po, i. 223, 224

  Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225

  Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107

  _Firebrand_, ii. 73

  _Firm_, iii. 177

  _Firmee_, iii. 9

  Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87
    Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. 70
    Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303
    Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164
    George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. 192, 205
    Mary, ii. 40, 153

  Flowers, Consul, iii. 301

  Foley, St. George, ii. 310
    Sir George, iii. 9

  Foochow, iii. 236

  Ford, Captain, i. 148

  Formosa, iii. 222, 223

  _Forte_, iii. 39, 41, 65, 77

  Fukevitche, Captain, iii. 206

  Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. 41

  Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. 194, 195, 206, 208, 212

  _Fury_, ii. 115, 128


  Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52

  _Galatea_, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. 284, 299, 302

  Galle; _see_ Point de Galle

  Gambia River, iii. 71

  Garibaldi, iii. 83

  Garnier, George, i. 16, 19
    Henry, i. 148, 159
    Lieutenant Keppel, iii. 190, 231
    Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103
    Thomas, iii. 324
    William, i. 15

  _Gazelle_, ii. 185, 187

  Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116

  George IV., King, i. 74, 102

  Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, 201; ii. 217, 248

  Gibson, Consul, iii. 224, 226

  Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. 1, 20

  Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104

  Gleichen, Count, iii. 25

  Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, 222, 249;
        ii. 68

  Goodwood, ii. 55

  Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57
    General C. G., iii. 245

  Goschen, Mr., iii. 326

  Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273

  Gouldisborough, iii. 182

  Gower, Consul, iii. 299

  Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59
    Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256
    Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. 1, 3

  Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. 227

  Grand Bessani, i. 212

  Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. 41, 46
    Charles, iii. 11
    Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333

  Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77

  Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. 45,
        78
    Sir George, iii. 40, 41, 45, 78, 79
    Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22
    Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249

  Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. 224, 225, 226

  Guyamas, ii. 190, 191

  Gye, Frederick, iii. 25
    Lieutenant Herbert, iii. 235


  Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31

  Hakodadi, iii. 159, 161, 219

  Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. 1

  Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57

  Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. 327
    Kerr Baillie, i. 82

  Hankow, iii. 243, 249

  Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. 182

  Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81

  Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164

  _Harlequin_, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, 274, 322, 333

  Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. 194

  _Hartford_, iii. 183

  Hartington, Lord, iii. 322

  Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. 40

  Hastie, ii. 47

  _Hastings_, ii. 128

  Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44

  Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118

  Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249
    Lady; _see_ Sara Crosbie

  Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116

  Hayti, i. 61

  Heki Hone, ii. 171

  Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232

  Heneage, Admiral, i. 102
    Captain Algernon C. F., iii. 70, 115, 222, 223, 316

  Henessey, Pope, iii. 230

  Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264

  Hewitt, Captain, iii. 192, 283

  Hickley, Captain, iii. 174

  _Highflyer_, iii. 8

  Hill, Colonel, i. 66
    Dr., iii. 192, 231
    Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258
    Lieutenant, i. 228, 232
    Lady Georgina; _see_ Keppel

  Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231

  Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68

  _Hind_, i. 168, 176, 180, 200

  Hiogo, iii. 173, 174, 180, 187, 188

  Hirado Strait, iii. 194

  Hislop, James, i. 71

  Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160

  Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47

  Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61

  Hodgson, General, iii. 119

  Hogarth, i. 96

  Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. 18

  Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. 85
    Henry, Lord, i. 1

  Holman, Joseph, i. 85

  Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129

  Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277

  Honeywood, W. P., i. 97

  Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, 337; ii. 113-115;
        iii. 9, 113, 129, 172, 180, 186, 220, 231, 234, 311

  _Hong-Kong_, iii. 1, 2, 4, 8

  Hooghly River, i. 155

  Hook, Theodore, i. 121

  Hope, Captain, ii. 73

  Hornby, Sir E., iii. 296
    James G. P., i. 22
    Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131

  Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. 44, 45-55

  Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297,
        312-316, 325; ii. 40, 256

  Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42

  Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199

  Howden, Lord, ii. 73

  Hughes, Colonel, i. 93

  Hume, David, ii. 44, 63

  Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, 168

  Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239

  Huntingfield, Lord, iii. 323

  Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95

  Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200

  _Hydra_, ii. 65


  Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147

  _Icarus_, iii. 170, 222

  Ichaboa Island, iii. 68

  Illanuns, the, i. 294

  _Inconstant_, ii. 181

  India, ii. 62

  _Inflexible_, ii. 115

  Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187
    Lady Sarah, i. 187

  Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76

  Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53

  Inkerman, ii. 259, 280


  Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21

  Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79

  Java, ii. 131

  Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3

  Jephson, Dr., i. 253

  Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63

  “John Company,” i. 133, 134

  Johnson, C., ii. 3
    Lieutenant W. F., iii. 1

  Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. 122

  Joinville, Prince de, i. 201

  Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284

  Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. 129, 220

  Jonos, the, iii. 165


  Kaga, Prince, iii. 169

  Kalamanta Bay, i. 180

  Kapiti Island, ii. 171

  Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176

  Karangan, ii. 16

  Kazatch, ii. 262, 266

  Kearney, Major, iii. 2

  _Kearsage_, iii. 83

  Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. 310

  Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54

  Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. 36

  KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:--
    Birth, i. 1
    Christening, i. 1
    School-days, i. 2-5
    Choice of a career, i. 7
    Preparation for the Navy, i. 14
    Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16
    First voyage, i. 27
    Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249
    Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. 80
    Appointments in H.M. Navy--
      Midshipman, i. 25
      Mate, i. 79
      Lieutenant, i. 86
      Commander, i. 158
      Commodore, ii. 322
      Admiral, iii. 15
    Ships:--
      _Childers_, i. 164
      _Colossus_, ii. 312
      _Cumberland_, iii. 115
      _Dido_, i. 255
      _Forte_, iii. 39
      _Galatea_, i. 100
      _Magicienne_, i. 119
      _Mæander_, ii. 58
      _Manilla_, iii. 143
      _Pearl_, iii. 135
      _Pelorus_, iii. 144
      _Princess Charlotte_, iii. 130, 172
      _Raleigh_, ii. 324
      _Rattler_, iii. 143
      _Rodney_, ii. 276; iii. 173
      _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208
      _Tweed_, i. 25, 66
    Naval stations commanded by:--
      The Cape, iii. 39
      China, iii. 113
      Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284
      Devonport, iii. 330
      S.E. America, iii. 71
      Straits Settlements, ii. 77
    Honours:--
      C.B., ii. 314
      K.C.B., iii. 15
      G.C.B., iii. 326
      D.C.L. Oxford, iii. 324-326

  KEPPEL, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, 57,
        88, 202, 207, 208, 328; iii. 18, 35

  KEPPEL, Lady (Jane West), iii. 80, 95, 114, 230
    Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23
    Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326
    Augustus Frederick, i. 254
    Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. 80, 95, 116, 230, 231, 273
    Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. 19
    Frances, i. 254
    George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; ii. 59, 61
    Georgina, i. 66
    Leicester, ii. 61, 69
    Maria Walpole, iii. 98, 230, 275
    Mary, i. 1, 66, 93
    Sophia, i. 4
    Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50,
        81
    William, General, i. 59
    family of, i. 7

  KEPPEL; _see_ Albemarle

  Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272

  Khersonese, ii. 258, 263

  Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. 229

  Kiel Harbour, ii. 240

  King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67
    Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. 113, 114, 121
    Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169

  Kingsley, Charles, iii. 114

  Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60

  Kinmel, i. 93, 162

  Kissang River, i. 135

  Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. 323

  Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124

  Kobe, iii. 298

  Korbé; _see_ Corvé

  Korea, iii. 194

  Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171

  Korsakof, General, iii. 195, 208

  Kronstadt, ii. 230

  Kuching; _see_ Sarawak

  Kung, the Prince of, iii. 226


  Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, 127; iii. 126, 230

  Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242

  Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211

  Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54

  Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144

  Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221

  Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59

  Lante Bay, i. 170

  _La Place_, iii. 162, 177

  Lawrence, Captain, i. 182

  Leicester, Earl of; _see_ Coke, Thomas William
    Countess of; _see_ Hon. Anne Keppel

  Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. 324

  Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55

  Le Marchant, Major, i. 75

  Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45

  Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. 36

  Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189

  Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. 118

  _Leven_, iii. 234

  Lexham Hall, i. 7

  Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162

  Li Hung Chang, iii. 245

  Lima, General, i. 41

  Linga River, ii. 2, 19

  Lingghi River, i. 135

  Linn, Mandarin, i. 264

  Lisbon, i. 103, 184

  Lissa, i. 22

  Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. 67

  Lloyd, Mr., i. 125
    Lieutenant, iii. 235

  Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, 272

  Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116

  _London_, iii. 110

  Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17

  Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76

  Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 38

  Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230

  Lowe, Robert, iii. 325

  Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14

  Lupar River, ii. 6

  Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148

  Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215

  Lyemoon Pass, iii. 182

  Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54

  Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267


  Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. 1, 8, 9, 130, 222

  M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144

  M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. 8

  Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. 323

  MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. 129, 231

  Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61

  Macota, ii. 20

  _Madagascar_, i. 165, 170

  Madeira; _see_ Funchal Roads

  Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158

  Madrid, i. 186

  Madura, ii. 131

  _Mæander_, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, 155, 200, 201

  Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199

  _Magicienne_, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200

  Magin, Captain, iii. 1

  Mahé, Port, iii. 63

  Mahébourg, iii. 63

  Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167

  _Malabar_, i. 169, 171, 183, 184

  Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334

  Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196

  Malakoff, ii. 274

  Malanga, ii. 172

  Maldanado Roads, i. 43

  Mallewali, ii. 96

  Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17

  Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. 117

  Mambahennan, ii. 100

  Mamelon, ii. 273

  Manao, iii. 169

  Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. 322, 323

  Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. 230

  Maratabu River, ii. 23

  _Mariner_, ii. 77

  Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326

  Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249

  Marseilles, i. 222

  Martin, Admiral, ii. 239
    Captain George, i. 169
    Surgeon William, i. 75

  Matapan, Cape, i. 180

  Mataxa, Count, iii. 99

  Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78

  Maul, Fox; _see_ Panmure, Lord

  Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. 63

  Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. 317

  Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. 223

  Mayatchni Island, iii. 195

  Maynard family, the, i. 164

  Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188

  _Medea_, ii. 116

  Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. 221, 239

  _Medusa_, i. 266, 274

  Melville Island, ii. 134

  Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94

  Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240

  Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64
    Gulf of, i. 57

  Meyerbeer, iii. 25

  Miako, iii. 174, 175, 180

  Michi, Mr., iii. 238

  Mikado, the, iii. 190, 290

  Millett family, the, i. 253

  Milo, i. 68, 176

  Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196
    Doña, i. 196

  Ming Tombs, the, iii. 172

  Minorca, i. 14

  Minto, Lord, i. 255

  Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. 286

  Mitford, Bertram, iii. 268, 286, 290

  _Modeste_, i. 243, 277

  Moluccas Islands, ii. 147

  Montagu, Oliver, iii. 323

  Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205

  Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195

  Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260
    General Sir John, i. 260

  Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285

  Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146
    River, i. 135; ii. 24

  Moriataba River, i. 295

  Mozambique Harbour, iii. 55

  Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, 339; ii. 42, 84

  Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6

  Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172

  Murrundum Island, i. 294

  Musemberg, i. 73


  Nagasaki, iii. 144, 145, 170, 191, 192, 220, 300

  Najassi, iii. 201

  Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6

  Nanbu Harbour, iii. 158

  Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285

  Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. 239

  Nankow, iii. 172

  Nanning, i. 134, 135

  Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167,
        247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228
    William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87

  Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253

  Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71

  Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70

  Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297

  Navarino, i. 68

  Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15
    Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267

  New Guinea, ii. 148

  Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276

  New Spain, i. 64

  New Zealand, ii. 152, 169

  Nicholai, iii. 192, 206

  Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258

  Nicholson, Port, ii. 169

  Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284

  Nigata, iii. 167

  Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251

  Ning Po, i. 279

  Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257

  Nogueras, General, i. 188

  Norfolk Island, ii. 165

  Norman, Colonel, iii. 296

  Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289

  Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49

  Norton, Mrs., i. 260

  Nova Scotia, i. 52

  Novogorod Harbour, iii. 194

  Nwajima, Prince, iii. 293


  _Ocean_, iii. 179, 277

  O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192

  Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. 180, 227

  Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59

  Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209

  Onrust Island, ii. 130

  Ord, Sir Henry, iii. 316

  _Orestes_, i. 180, 197, 200

  Orizaba Mountain, i. 62

  Osaka, iii. 174, 179, 180, 186, 190, 220, 298

  Osmond, John, i. 84

  Otho, King of Greece, i. 179

  Ou-teng-foi, iii. 235, 236

  Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128


  Paddi, town, i. 317

  Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94
    Clarence, ii. 264

  Pakington, Sir John, iii. 113

  Pakoo, i. 318

  Palmas, Cape, i. 211

  Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. 28, 29, 32, 100

  Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. 15-17

  Papua, ii. 148

  Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281
    Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, 266,
        271, 272, 273, 278, 325; ii. 27, 31

  Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. 148, 150, 168, 169, 174, 179,
        181, 187, 188, 273, 297, 328

  Paros, i. 179

  Parseval Deschênes; _see_ Deschênes

  Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49

  Partridge, C., ii. 61

  Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67

  Patingi, Ali, ii. 7

  Patterson, Admiral, i. 52
    Charles, i. 52

  Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5

  Pechell, Captain, ii. 299

  Peck, Henry and George, i. 73

  Pedro, Don, i. 40

  Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335

  Peiho River, iii. 171

  Peking, i. 81; iii. 144, 171, 259

  Pelham, Dudley, i. 166

  _Pelican_, i. 226, 231, 242, 277

  Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43

  Pelorus, ii. 144

  Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. 14, 120, 229, 318

  _Penelope_, iii. 283

  Penguin Island, i. 203, 208

  Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199

  Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176

  Perim, iii. 118, 119

  Pernambuco, i. 41, 42

  Perote, i. 64

  Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135

  _Perseus_, iii. 234

  Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. 208

  Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100

  Pfingsten, Major, iii. 195

  _Phlegethon_, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234

  _Piraeus_, the, i. 178

  Plampin, Admiral, i. 48

  Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. 130

  _Plymouth_, ii. 121

  Point de Galle, iii. 14, 119, 318

  Po-leng, iii. 235

  Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79

  Pomony, iii. 56

  Pontranini, ii. 20

  Poore, Sir E., ii. 41

  Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243

  Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236

  Porchester Castle, i. 52

  Porirua, Cape, ii. 171

  Port-au-Prince, i. 61

  Portendick, i. 202

  Porter, Captain, i. 98

  Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153

  _Portland_, i. 178, 180

  Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85

  Port Mahon, i. 194

  Port Nicholson, ii. 171

  Porto Praya, i. 69, 204

  Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113

  Posietta Bay, iii. 194

  Potoo, i. 278

  Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322
    Major, i. 327

  Price, Captain David, i. 178

  Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73

  _Princess Charlotte_, i. 52; iii. 129, 130, 220

  Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244

  Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. 114, 121

  Province Wellesley, i. 283

  Pulo Sabu, i. 288


  Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. 40

  Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65

  Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23

  Quitta, i. 235, 240


  Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76

  Raffles Bay, ii. 134

  Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275

  _Raleigh_, ii. 324, 336; iii. 2, 8

  Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235

  _Ranee_, ii. 86

  Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196

  _Rattler_, iii. 190, 227

  _Rattlesnake_, ii. 153

  Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72
    W. H., i. 289; iii. 317
    Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. 177

  Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304

  _Revenge_, i. 200

  Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199

  Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277
    family, the, i. 248

  Rich, Henry, i. 96

  Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253
    Duchess of, i. 72

  Rigby, Colonel, iii. 62, 63

  _Rinaldo_, iii. 187, 221, 222, 234

  Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; iii. 42, 75

  Rio de la Plata, i. 43

  Risk, W. B., iii. 145

  Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47

  Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180

  Robinson, Commander, iii. 221
    Sir Hercules, iii. 319

  Roches, M., iii. 174, 180, 188

  _Rodney_, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; ii. 276, 304; iii. 173,
        177, 180, 222, 247, 276, 323, 324

  Rodyk, Jack, iii. 318

  Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45

  Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255

  Romney family, the, i. 257

  Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. 14

  Rosebery, Lord, i. 7

  Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117

  Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. 187

  Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. 20

  Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27
    Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, 247; ii. 39
    Josias (junior), i. 261
    Admiral Samuel, ii. 32

  Roy, Captain, iii. 186

  Rubielo, i. 188

  Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230


  Sacrificios, i. 114

  Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85

  Saghalien Island, iii. 194, 198

  Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20

  Saigon, iii. 227

  St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178

  St. Barbara River, i. 227

  San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163

  St. Helena, i. 90

  St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261

  _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208, 233, 243

  St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69

  St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62

  St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238
    Island, i. 123
    Roads, i. 85

  San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. 77, 78

  St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. 73

  St. Vincent, i. 97, 107

  Sakai, iii. 186, 187

  Salamanca, i. 82

  Salamis, Bay of, i. 179

  _Salamis_, iii. 115, 120, 122, 145, 173, 180, 192, 198, 234, 237

  Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. 324

  Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332

  _Samarang_, ii. 18

  Sambas River, i. 292

  Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129

  Sandringham, iii. 92, 93, 260

  Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151

  Santobong, ii. 112

  _Saracen_, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, 240

  Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, 112; iii. 11, 124,
        229

  Sarebas, the, ii. 127
    River, i. 311

  _Satellite_, iii. 122

  Satsuma, Prince, iii. 174, 175, 178, 180

  Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69
    Captain, i. 326

  Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131
    Prince Edward of, ii. 253

  Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87

  Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. 170, 222
    Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7

  _Scout_, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, 242

  Sebastopol; _see_ Sevastopol

  Seboo, ii. 2

  Sekarran, country, ii. 2
    River, i. 312; ii. 6

  Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127

  Senegal, i. 238

  _Serapis_, iii. 332

  Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2

  Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335

  Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264

  Seymour family, the, i. 253
    Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. 321
    Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, 333; ii. 235;
        iii. 283, 321
    Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17
    Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. 1, 9
    Michael (junior), iii. 3
    Lord William, ii. 235

  Shakotan Bay, iii. 227

  Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. 142, 172, 180, 220, 237

  Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288

  Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182
    Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282

  Sheridan, Charles, i. 260
    Francis, i. 260, 261, 262

  Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60

  Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187

  Shunski, Ito, iii. 183

  Siefukigi Temple, iii. 183

  Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. 70

  Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80

  Simoneseki Straits, iii. 146, 265

  Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; iii. 45, 67, 74

  Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71
    General, i. 81; ii. 279
    Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323

  Sinclair, Major, i. 291

  Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, 322, 333, 338; ii. 23,
        24, 75, 77, 111, 128, 129; iii. 9, 13, 115, 120, 121, 122, 230

  _Sir Charles Forbes_, iii. 1

  Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76

  Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48
    Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, 273, 278, 279,
        291; ii. 65

  Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71

  Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176

  Sober Island, i. 127

  Somerset, the Duke of, iii. 79, 265
    Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72

  Soult, Marshal, i. 247

  Spalding, John, i. 98

  _Spartan_, ii. 41

  Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. 41, 46, 57, 91

  Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253

  _Sphynx_, ii. 52

  Spurrier, Mr., iii. 4, 20

  Stanhope, Captain, iii. 179, 181, 186, 187
    Elizabeth, i. 8
    Spencer, i. 8

  Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156

  _Stanley_, iii. 222

  Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123
    General, ii. 117

  Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240
    Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; ii. 219;
        iii. 15-17, 19, 27, 107, 115, 190, 205
    Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233
    Lady Mary; _see_ Keppel

  Steward, Mr., ii. 7

  Stewart, Mrs. Keith; _see_ Fitzroy, Mary

  Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70

  Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55

  Straits Settlements, the, iii. 121, 316

  Strongiolo Bay, i. 179

  Suckling, i. 20, 24

  Suez, iii. 18, 118

  Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162

  Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97

  Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59

  Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104

  Sumatra, i. 149

  Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123

  Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75

  Surtees family, i. 5

  Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, 161,
        246, 247, 249, 322

  Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. 115

  Swan, Commander John, iii. 190

  Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221

  Swatow, iii. 136, 233, 235

  Swinhoe, Consul, iii. 237

  _Sybille_, iii. 8

  Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164

  Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46

  Syra, i. 180


  Tagus, River, ii. 213

  Tahiti, ii. 177

  Tai-wan-foo, iii. 224

  Taki Zingaburo, iii. 183, 184

  Taku Forts, iii. 171, 264, 303, 310

  _Talavera_, i. 169, 171

  Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123

  Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247

  Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338

  Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113

  Tangiers, i. 168

  Tang-Tau, iii. 234, 235

  Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. 123

  Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83

  Tarragona, i. 189, 196

  Tartary, Gulf of, iii. 192

  Tasmania, ii. 157

  Taylor, pilot, i. 257

  Tchung-How, iii. 263

  Templer, John, ii. 43, 62
    J. L. B., ii. 43

  Termination Island, iii. 195

  Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. 82

  Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251

  Thompson, Deas, ii. 157

  Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. 9

  Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. 187, 227, 271

  _Thunderer_, i. 121, 169, 170, 180

  _Tien Chi_, iii. 222

  Tientsin, iii. 303

  Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128

  Tomari, iii. 163

  Tombeaux Bay, iii. 65

  Tonga Tabu, ii. 172

  Toolyan Island, ii. 106

  Torres, Captain de, i. 36

  Torres Straits, ii. 142

  Tortoza, i. 188

  Tosa, Prince, iii. 170

  Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81

  Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123

  Tracey, Commander, iii. 177

  Trade Town, i. 203, 206

  Trafalgar, i. 7, 12

  _Tribune_, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. 8

  Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157

  Tripoli, i. 171, 178

  Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123

  Trollope, Commander, iii. 222

  Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120

  Troy, i. 178

  Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. 222

  Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82

  Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. 1, 4, 39, 45

  Twanai, iii. 163

  _Tweed_, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, 85

  Twofold Bay, ii. 157

  _Tyne_, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200


  _Undaunted_, i. 67, 84

  Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19


  Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195

  Valparaiso, ii. 195

  _Venus_, iii. 186

  Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65

  Vernon, Lord, i. 184

  _Vernon_, i. 169, 180

  Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. 1, 2, 9, 25

  Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. 19, 41,
        116, 322, 329
    Princess; _see_ Princess Royal

  _Victory_, i. 53

  Villa Nueva, i. 200

  Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103

  _Vladimir_, ii. 302

  Vladivostock, iii. 198, 218

  Vlangali, A., iii. 192, 194

  _Volage_, i. 169, 180

  Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191

  Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173


  Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81
    Colonel, i. 81
    Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14

  Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171

  Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. 81, 92, 93, 105, 113,
        115, 322, 328, 329, 332, 333
    H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. 81, 93, 105, 322, 333

  Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. 74

  Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7

  _Wanderer_, i. 275, 333

  Waring, Mr., i. 187

  Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. 75

  Warrington, Colonel, i. 172

  Waterford, Lord, i. 246

  Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86

  Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8

  _Waterwitch_, i. 223, 227, 228

  Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278

  Wellesley, Captain George, iii. 14

  _Wellesley_, ii. 68

  Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206

  Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171

  Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8
    Frederica, Countess of, i. 8

  West, Green, i. 71
    Jane; _see_ Keppel, Lady
    Rev. Richard, iii. 80

  Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. 14, 232, 317

  Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. 27

  White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29

  Whitehead, Mr., i. 322

  Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27

  Whydah, i. 237, 239

  Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60

  Wildman, Colonel, i. 11

  William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, 200

  Williams, Sir John, i. 94
    Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165

  Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7

  Willoughby, James, iii. 117

  Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. 178
    family, the, i. 51

  Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301
    Mr., ii. 101, 105

  Windsor, iii. 115, 116

  Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63
    Captain W., i. 169

  Wodehouse, George, i. 103

  _Wolverine_, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24

  Wood, Sir Charles, iii. 9
    Rev. James, i. 2, 4

  Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. 180, 220

  Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115

  Wynberg, i. 71


  Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64

  Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150

  Xeres, i. 184


  Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. 237

  Yarborough, Lord, i. 166

  Yates, Mr., i. 66

  Yedo, iii. 148, 179, 180, 265

  Yeh, Admiral, iii. 6

  Yeng Cheow, iii. 223

  Yesso, iii. 164

  Yo-chow, iii. 250

  Yokohama, iii. 148, 150, 151, 162, 174, 177, 179, 180, 191, 192, 220,
        295

  Yokosha, iii. 191

  York, Cape, ii. 142

  Young, Captain, ii. 79

  Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165


  Zante, i. 180, 182

  Zanzibar, iii. 57
    the Sultan of, iii. 62

  _Zebra_, iii. 222


END OF VOL. II


_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_




Transcriber’s Notes


 • Italic text denoted by _underscores_.
 • Small capitals converted to ALL CAPS.
 • Images relocated close to related content.
 • Sidenotes relocated close to related content.
 • The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate
   the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location.
   Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous
   sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted.
 • Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close
   to related content.
 • Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were
   silently corrected.
 • Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.
 • Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.
 • The index that appears in volume III has been replicated into
   volumes I and II.


*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76809 ***