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diff --git a/76809-0.txt b/76809-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca1ad6d --- /dev/null +++ b/76809-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14921 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76809 *** + + + + + +A SAILOR’S LIFE + + + + +[Illustration: MacMillan and Co. Printer’s Mark.] + + + + +[Illustration: + + _Photographed by + Her Highness the Râni of Sarawak_ + +_A Hadji._] + + + + + A SAILOR’S LIFE + UNDER + FOUR SOVEREIGNS + + BY + ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET + THE HON. SIR HENRY KEPPEL + G.C.B., D.C.L. + + VOL. II + + London + MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED + NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + 1899 + + _All rights reserved_ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER XXXII PAGE + _Dido_ 1 + + CHAPTER XXXIII + _Dido_: Second Expedition 10 + + CHAPTER XXXIV + _Dido_ 22 + + CHAPTER XXXV + England 30 + + CHAPTER XXXVI + Shore Time--Study Steam 38 + + CHAPTER XXXVII + Shore Time 50 + + CHAPTER XXXVIII + The _Mæander_ 65 + + CHAPTER XXXIX + _Mæander_--Cruising 92 + + CHAPTER XL + _Mæander_--Cruising in the Sulu Sea 106 + + CHAPTER XLI + _Mæander_--Hong Kong 115 + + CHAPTER XLII + In Eastern Seas 124 + + CHAPTER XLIII + _Mæander_ 144 + + CHAPTER XLIV + _En route_ to Sydney 151 + + CHAPTER XLV + Sydney to Hobart Town 153 + + CHAPTER XLVI + Sydney 164 + + CHAPTER XLVII + _Mæander_ 190 + + CHAPTER XLVIII + At Home 201 + + CHAPTER XLIX + Shore Time 205 + + CHAPTER L + _St. Jean d’ Acre_ 208 + + CHAPTER LI + _St. Jean d’ Acre_--Cruising 215 + + CHAPTER LII + The Baltic Fleet 223 + + CHAPTER LIII + The Bombardment of Bomarsund 233 + + CHAPTER LIV + _St. Jean d’ Acre_ 238 + + CHAPTER LV + The Crimea 245 + + CHAPTER LVI + _St. Jean d’ Acre_ 261 + + CHAPTER LVII + Second Expedition to Kertch 270 + + CHAPTER LVIII + Naval Brigade 276 + + CHAPTER LIX + Trenches--Before Sevastopol 288 + + CHAPTER LX + The Redan 297 + + CHAPTER LXI + After Fall of Sevastopol 304 + + CHAPTER LXII + Arrival from Crimea--Thence in _Colossus_--Shore Time 312 + + CHAPTER LXIII + The _Raleigh_ 325 + + CHAPTER LXIV + The _Raleigh_ 330 + + CHAPTER LXV + Cape to China 333 + + INDEX + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + SUBJECT ARTIST PAGE + + A Hadji _Photographed by Her + Highness the Râni + of Sarawak_ Frontispiece + + _Mæander_ Fitting _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 66 + + _Mæander_ leaving Plymouth ” ” 68 + + “The Bishop” _From a photograph_ 71 + + _Mæander_ hove to _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 74 + + Comber in Danger ” ” 75 + + New Harbour, Singapore ” ” 78 + + All Sail set ” ” 83 + + _Mæander_ passing astern of + _Hastings_ ” ” 89 + + Map--Eastern Archipelago 92 + + Kina-Balu, N. Borneo ” ” 95 + + _Mæander_, Hong Kong. Manned + Yards on Departure of Sir + Francis Collier ” ” 114 + + A Spanish Galleon ” ” 124 + + _Mæander_ on Shore ” ” 126 + + Comba ” ” 133 + + _Mæander_ off Port Essington ” ” 135 + + An Australian Grave ” ” 136 + + _Mæander_ at Sydney ” ” 154 + + Sir Oswald Brierly _Nina Daly_ 156 + + _Mæander_ at Hobart Town _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 159 + + The Sham Fight ” ” 161 + + _Mæander_ between Sydney Heads ” ” 164 + + The _Rattlesnake_ ” ” 166 + + Rescue by Convicts. Norfolk Island ” ” 168 + + A Coral Island ” ” 170 + + A Stockade ” ” 172 + + _Mæander_ in a Gale _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 173 + + Point Venus, Tahiti ” ” 174 + + Tahiti Harbour ” ” 176 + + Lieutenant George Bowyear _Nina Daly_ 177 + + Eimeo _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 178 + + Inland Scenery, Tahiti ” ” 179 + + A Coral Atoll ” ” 181 + + _Mæander_ at Valparaiso ” ” 183 + + Coquimbo ” ” 186 + + Sharks at Mazatlan ” ” 188 + + The Cemetery at Guyamas ” ” 192 + + In the Straits of Magellan ” ” 197 + + Gunnery Exercise ” ” 216 + + The _St. Jean d’ Acre_ ” ” 222 + + The Commander-in-Chief _Anon._ 227 + + The _Gondola_ Yacht off + Tolbeacon Light _Sir Oswald Brierly_ 229 + + Circular Fort--Bomarsund ” ” 237 + + The Battle of the Alma “_Illustrated London News_” 241 + + Map--Strait of Gibraltar 247 + + Map--The Bosporus 250 + + _St. Jean d’ Acre_ off Balaclava _Col. Hon. Sir W. Colville,_ 251 + _K.C.V.O., C.B._ + + “All the Way Up.” The Col of + Balaclava ” ” 254 + + “How the Guards looked” _From “Punch,” 1855_ 257 + + Omar Pasha’s Arab _E. Caldwell_ 261 + + Headquarters _Simpson, I.L.N._ 265 + + Map of Crimea 269 + + “Jack, to Newly-Arrived _Col. Hon. Sir W. Colville,_ 278 + Subaltern ...” _K.C.V.O., C.B._ + + In Rear of the Lancaster Battery ” ” 281 + + Plan of Sevastopol 293 + + Inside the Naval Brigade Battery _Simpson, I.L.N._ 295 + + “Redan” Windham _Nina Daly_ 301 + + A Vidette of Cossacks _Col. Hon. Sir W. Colville,_ 307 + _K.C.V.O., C.B._ + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII + +_DIDO_ + + +[Sidenote: 1844. Sarawak, Aug. 5.] + +This being the morning fixed for the departure of our small expedition +against the Sekarrans, the _Phlegethon_ weighed at eight and proceeded +down the river to await the collection of force. + +Among those who accompanied us was the Pangeran Budrudeen, the +intelligent brother of the Rajah already noticed. This was an unusual +event in the Royal Family, and the departure from the Rajah’s wharf was +imposing. The barge of state was decked with banners and canopies. All +the chiefs attended, with the Arab priest Mudlana at their head, and +the barge pushed off amid the firing of cannon and a general shout to +invoke the blessing of Mahomet. + +Having seen the last boat off, Brooke and I took our departure in the +gig, when another salute was fired from the wharf. Three hours brought +us to the steamer. Here we heard that a small boat from the pirate +country had, under pretence of trading, been spying into our force, but +decamped on our appearance. We now got fairly away, the smaller boats +keeping near the shoals in-shore, while the steamer was obliged to make +an offing some miles from the coast. From the masthead we distinctly +made out the small boat that had left the mouth of the river before, +pulling and sailing in the direction of Batang Lupar, up which the +Sekarran country lies; and it being desirable that they should not +get information of our approach, at dusk, being well in advance, our +auxiliary force following, we despatched Brooke’s sampan and one of +_Dido’s_ cutters in chase. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +With the flood-tide arrived the well-appointed little fleet, and with +it the cutter and sampan with two out of the three men belonging to the +boat of which they had been in chase, the third having been speared by +Seboo on showing a strong inclination to run amuck in his own boat. +From these men we learned that Seriff Sahib was fully prepared for +defence--his harem had been removed--and that he would fight to the +last. + +We anchored in the afternoon at the mouth of the Linga, and sent +a messenger to caution the chief, Seriff Jaffer, against giving +any countenance to either Seriff. The Batang Lupar, thus far, is a +magnificent river, from three to four miles wide, and in most parts +from 5 to 7 fathoms deep. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 7.] + +Weighed at daylight. Shortly after eleven, with a tide sweeping us up, +we came in sight of the fortifications of Patusen. There were five +forts. Getting suddenly into 6 feet of water, we anchored. We were well +within musket range, but not so formidable a berth as we might have +taken up had we been aware of the increasing depth of water nearer the +shore; but we approached so rapidly there was no time to ascertain. + +The _Dido_ and _Phlegethon’s_ boats were not long in forming alongside. +They consisted of the following:-- + +Pinnace: Lieutenant C. F. Wade; R. Beith, assistant-surgeon; 13 seamen; +5 marines. + +_Jolly Bachelor_: Lieutenant E. W. Turnour; Mr. C. Johnson, midshipman; +21 seamen; 7 marines. + +First cutter: Mr. E. H. H. D’Aeth, mate; 8 seamen; 8 marines. + +Second cutter: Mr. Robert Jenkins, acting-mate; 8 seamen; 2 marines. + +Second gig: Mr. R. C. Allen, Master; 6 seamen. + +_Phlegethon’s_ first cutter: Mr. S. Caverley, first officer; 15 men. + +Second cutter: Mr. Simpson, second officer; Mr. A. Barton, midshipman; +15 seamen. + +Third cutter: Mr. H. Comber, acting-mate of _Dido_; 12 seamen. + +Fourth cutter: Mr. G. S. Darby, fourth officer; 12 seamen. + +In all, 13 officers; 108 seamen; 16 marines. + +We had no steam, and to direct a fleet of boats how to attack a +succession of half a dozen forts was beyond me. They were off, and they +were there! From the _Phlegethon_ we had no difficulty in setting fire +to the thatched roofs of the forts. Reinforcements came across the +extensive shelter of Patusen Harbour. These we might easily have sunk +with _Phlegethon’s_ guns, but there was excitement for them on landing! +They never once checked in their advance, but the moment they touched +the shore the crews rushed up, entering the forts at the embrasures, +while the pirates fled at the rear. In this sharp and short affair we +had but one man killed, poor John Ellis, a fine young man, and captain +of the maintop in the _Dido_. He was cut in two by a round-shot while +in the act of ramming home a cartridge in the bow-gun of the _Jolly +Bachelor_, of which Lieutenant Edward Turnour was in command. This, +and two others badly wounded, were the only casualties on our side. + +Our native allies were not long in following our men on shore. +The killed and wounded on the part of the pirates must have been +considerable. Our native followers got many heads. There were no less +than sixty-four brass guns of different sizes, besides many iron, found +in and about the forts. The town was extensive, and after being well +looted made a glorious blaze. Our Sarawak followers, both Malays and +Dyaks, behaved with gallantry, and with our lads dashed in under the +fire of the forts. In fact, like their country, anything might be made +of them under a good Government. + +After our men had dined, and had a short rest during the heat of the +day, we landed our force in two divisions to attack a town situated +about two miles up, on the left bank of a small river called the +Grahan, the entrance to which had been guarded by the forts, and +immediately after their capture the tide had fallen too low for our +boats to get up. Facing the stream, too, was a long stockade, so +that we determined on attacking the place in the rear, which, had +the pirates waited to receive them, would have caused an interesting +skirmish. Brooke was away independently in the gig. They, however, +decamped, leaving everything behind them. + +In this town we found Seriff Sahib’s residence, and among other things +his curious and extensive wardrobe. It was ridiculous to see our Dyaks +dressed out in all the finery and plunder of this noted pirate, whose +very name a few days ago would have made them tremble. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6, 7.] + +We likewise found a magazine in the rear of Sahib’s house, containing +about 2 tons of gunpowder, which I ordered to be thrown into the river. + +It was evident we attacked Patusen at the right moment: the +preparations for its defence were nearly completed, and a delay of a +week would have resulted in considerable loss of life. It was the key +to this extensive river, the resort of the worst of pirates, and each +chief had contributed his share of guns and ammunition towards its +defence. + +We returned to our boats and evening meal rather fatigued, but much +pleased with our work, after ascending near seventy miles from the +mouth of the river. The habitations of 5000 pirates had been burnt to +the ground, five strong forts destroyed, together with several hundred +boats, upwards of sixty brass guns captured, and about a fourth of that +number of iron ones spiked and thrown into the river, besides vast +quantities of other arms and ammunition, and the powerful Sahib, the +great pirate patron for the last twenty years, ruined past recovery, +and driven to hide his diminished head in the jungle. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8, 9.] + +The 8th and 9th were spent in burning and destroying the remains of the +staggering town and a variety of smaller boats. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +As soon as the tide had risen sufficiently to take us over the shoals, +we weighed in the steamer for the country of the Sekarran Dyaks, having +sent the boats on before with the first of the flood. + +About fifteen miles above Patusen is the branch of the river called the +Undop. Up this river I sent Lieutenant Turnour, with Mr. Comber, in the +_Jolly Bachelor_ and a division of our native boats, while we proceeded +to where the river again branches off to the right and left, as on the +tongue of land so formed we understood we should find a strong fort; +besides, it was the highest point to which we could attempt to take the +steamer. We found the place deserted and houses empty. + +We now divided the force into three divisions--the one already +mentioned, under Lieutenant Turnour, up the Undop; another, under Mr. +D’Aeth, up the Lupar; while Lieutenant Wade, accompanied by Brooke, +ascended the Sekarran. I had not calculated on the disturbed and +excited state in which I found the country: two wounded men having been +sent back from the Undop branch, brought accounts of pirates, chiefly +Malays, collected in great numbers both before and in the rear of our +small force. + +An attempt had been made to cut off the bearer of this information, +Nakodah Bahar, who had had a narrow escape, and had no idea of being +the bearer of an answer unless attended by a European force. I had some +difficulty in mustering another crew from the steamer, and left my +friend Captain Scott with only the idlers, rather critically situated. +I deemed it advisable to re-collect our whole force, and before +proceeding to the punishment of the Sekarrans to destroy the power and +influence of Seriff Muller, whose town was situated about twenty miles +up, said to contain a population of 1500 Malays, without reckoning the +Dyak tribes. + +Having despatched boats with directions to Lieutenant Wade and Mr. +D’Aeth to join us in the Undop, a tributary of the Batang Lupar, +proceeded to the scene of action; leaving the _Phlegethon_ to maintain +as strict a blockade of the Sekarran and Lupar branches as, with her +reduced force, she was capable of. + +On my joining Lieutenant Turnour, I found him just returned from a +very spirited attack which he had made, assisted by Mr. Comber, on a +stockade situated on the summit of a steep hill, Mr. Allen, the Master, +being still absent on a similar service on the opposite side of the +river. + +The gallant old chief Patingi Ali was likewise absent in pursuit of the +enemy that had been driven from the stockades, with whom he had had a +hand-to-hand fight, the whole of which, being on the rising ground, was +witnessed by our boats’ crews, who could not resist hailing his return +from his gallant achievement with three hearty cheers. + +We had now to unite in cutting our way through a barrier across the +river similar to that described in the attack on the Sarebas, which +having passed we brought up for the night close to a still more serious +obstacle in a number of huge trees felled, the branches of which, +meeting midway in the river, formed apparently an insurmountable +obstacle. But “patience and perseverance” overcame all obstacles. By +night only three of the trees remained to be cleared away. On the right +bank, about 50 yards in advance of the barrier, stood a farm building, +which we considered it prudent to occupy for the night. + +Having collected fifty volunteers (Brooke and Wade had then not +rejoined), I took Brooke’s schoolfellow Steward, Williamson, and with +me Comber, a corporal and four marines, my gig’s crew, and, of course, +my trusty John Eager, the sound of whose bugle meant mischief. The +remainder composed of a medley of picked Malays and Dyaks. + +The house being 100 yards in advance of our party, and 80 from the +river, it was difficult of approach, especially at night. The ground +swampy, with logs of trees, over which I stumbled, and was up to my +arms in mud and water. Nevertheless, there was no noise. It was a roomy +building. In one corner I found an enclosure, forming a square of about +8 feet; of this I took possession, and while in the place--it was pitch +dark--I quietly divested me of my wet trousers. + +“Tiga” (three) was the watchword, in case of a stranger finding his way +in. I was contemplating whether my duck trousers were sufficiently dry +for me to get into, when every one was disturbed by a most diabolical +war-yell. In a moment every man was on his legs--swords, spears, and +krisses dimly glittered over our heads. It is impossible to describe +the excitement and confusion of the succeeding ten minutes; one and all +believed we had been surrounded by the enemy and cut off from our main +party. + +I had already thrust the muzzle of my pistol close to the heads of +several natives, whom in the confusion I had mistaken for Sekarrans; +and as each in his turn called out “Tiga!” I withdrew my weapon to +apply it to somebody else, until at last we found we were _all_ +“Tigas.” I had prevented Eager more than once from sounding the alarm, +which from the first he had not ceased to press for permission to do. + +The Dyak yell had, however, succeeded in throwing the whole force +afloat into a similar confusion, who, not hearing the signal, concluded +they, and not we, were the party attacked. The real cause we afterwards +ascertained to have arisen from the alarm of a Dyak, who dreamt, or +imagined, he felt a spear thrust upwards through the bamboo flooring of +our building, and immediately gave his diabolical yell. The confusion +was ten times as much as it would have been had the enemy really been +there. So ended the adventures of the night in the wild jungle of +Borneo. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +_DIDO_: SECOND EXPEDITION + + +[Sidenote: 1844. Aug. 11.] + +At daylight we were joined by Wade and Brooke, their division making a +very acceptable increase to our force, and by eight o’clock the last +barrier was cut through between us and Seriff Muller’s devoted town. + +With the exception of his own house, from which some eight or nine +Malays were endeavouring to remove his effects, the whole place was +deserted. They made no fight, and an hour afterwards the town had been +plundered and burnt. + +The only lives lost were a few unfortunates, who happened to come +within range of our musketry in their exertions to save some of their +master’s property. + +A handsome large boat belonging to Seriff Muller was the only thing +saved, and this I presented to Budrudeen. + +After a short delay in catching our usual supply of goats and poultry, +with which the place abounded, we proceeded up the river in chase of +the chief and his people, our progress much impeded by the immense +trees felled across the river. + +We ascertained that the pirates had retreated to a Dyak village, +situated on the summit of a hill, some twenty-five miles higher up the +Undop, five or six miles only of which we had succeeded in ascending, +as a most dreary and rainy night closed in, during which we were joined +by D’Aeth and his division from the Lupar River. + +The following morning, at daybreak, we again commenced our toilsome +work. We should have succeeded better with lighter boats, and I +should have despaired of the heavier boats getting up had they not +been assisted by an opportune and sudden rise of the tide, to the +extent of 12 or 14 feet, though with this we had to contend against a +considerably increased strength of current. + +It was on this day that my ever active and zealous First Lieutenant, +Charles Wade, jealous of the advanced position of our light boats, +obtained a place in my gig. + +That evening the _Phlegethon’s_ first and second cutters, the _Dido’s_ +two cutters, and their gigs, were fortunate enough to pass a barrier +composed of trees recently felled, from which we concluded ourselves to +be so near the enemy that, by pushing forward as long as we could see, +we might prevent further impediments from being thrown in our way. This +we did, but at 9 P.M., arriving at a broad expanse of the river, and +being utterly unable to trace our course, we anchored our advance force +for the night. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 14.] + +The first landing-place we had no trouble in discovering, from the +number of deserted boats collected near it. Leaving these to be looted, +we proceeded in search of the second, which we understood was situated +more immediately under the village, and which, having advanced without +our guides, we had much difficulty in finding. The circuit of the base +of the hill was above five miles. + +During this warfare, Patingi Ali, who, with his usual zeal, had here +come up, bringing a considerable native force of both Malays and Dyaks, +was particularly on the alert; while we in the gig attacked Seriff +Muller himself. + +Patingi nearly succeeded in capturing that chief in person. He had +escaped from his prahu into a fast-pulling sampan, in which he was +chased by old Ali, and afterwards only saved his life by throwing +himself into the water and swimming to the jungle; indeed, it was with +no small pride that the gallant old chief appropriated the boat to his +own use. + +In the prahu were captured two large brass guns, two smaller ones, a +variety of arms, ammunition, and personal property, amongst which were +also two pairs of handsome Wedgewood jars. + +While my crew were employed cooking, I crept into the jungle and +suddenly fancied I heard the suppressed hum of many voices not far +distant. I returned to our cooking party and bade Wade take up his +double-barrel and come with me. I had not penetrated many yards before +I came in sight of a mass of boats concealed in a snug little inlet, +the entrance to which had escaped our notice. These boats were filled +with piratical Dyaks and Malays, and sentinels posted at various points +on the shore. + +My first impulse was to conceal ourselves until the arrival of our +force, but my rash though gallant friend deemed otherwise, and, without +noticing the caution of my upheld hand, dashed in advance, discharging +his gun, calling upon our men to follow. + +It is impossible to conceive the consternation and confusion this +our sudden sally occasioned among the pirates. The confused noise +and scrambling from their boats I can only liken to that of a +suddenly-roused flock of wild-ducks. + +Our attack from the point whence it came was evidently unexpected; and +it is my opinion that they calculated on our attacking the hill, if we +did so at all, from the nearest landing-place, without pulling round +the other five miles, as the whole attention of their scouts appeared +to be directed towards that quarter. + +A short distance above them was a small encampment, probably erected +for the convenience of their chiefs, as in it we found writing +materials, two or three desks of English manufacture, on the brass +plate of one of which, I afterwards noticed, was engraved the name of +“Willson.” + +To return to the pirates: with our force, such as it was--nine in +number--we pursued our terrified enemy, headed by Wade. + +They foolishly themselves had not the courage to rally in their +judiciously selected and naturally protected encampment, but continued +their retreat (firing on us from the jungle) towards the Dyak +village on the summit of the hill. We collected our force, reloaded +our firearms; and Wade, seeing from this spot the arrival at the +landing-place of the other boats, again rushed on in pursuit. + +Before arriving at the foot of the steep ascent on the summit of which +the Dyak village stood, we had to cross a small open space of about 60 +yards, exposed to the fire from the village as well as the surrounding +jungle. It was before crossing this plain that I again cautioned Wade +to await the arrival of his men, of whom he was far in advance. + +We suddenly came on to the snuggest and best-sheltered boat harbour +I ever saw. The land was high towards the river, with a narrow and +well-concealed entrance opening to the river, so high that an impromptu +bridge in the shape of a large tree had been thrown across. It was +along this that Wade was proceeding in advance, calling “Come on, my +boys!” And I am afraid I did not disguise my gratification at seeing +him disappear into the branches of a large tree growing beneath. + +By this time the cutter and other boats had landed at our point and +were coming up. I had scarcely got across the tree-bridge, when I saw +my friend scrambling up the opposite side, himself unhurt, his gun not +discharged. + +Our men were now landing fast, and it was for very shame I could not +allow Wade to proceed alone. Only a few minutes afterwards, while still +trying to check him, a bullet from the hill took his thumb and twisted +him in my direction; while a second shot struck him in the ribs and +lodged in the spine--and he fell. + +By this time a strong party were up, whom I directed to pass on, while +I ascertained that poor Wade’s heart had ceased to beat. + +We laid the body in a canoe, with the Union Jack for a pall, and +descended the river. In the evening, the force assembled, committed the +body to the deep. I read that impressive service from a Prayer-Book +brought up by poor Wade himself--as he put it, “in case of accident.” + +Before we again got under way, several Malay families, no longer in +dread of their piratical chief, Seriff Muller, gave themselves up to +us as prisoners--the first instance of any of them having done so. +We found sundry suspicious documents, exposing deep intrigues and +conspiracies, and brought up for the night off the still burning ruins +of Seriff Muller’s town. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 15.] + +On Tuesday we again reached the steamer. We still had something to +settle with the Sekarrans, and, having rested for two days, started on +the 17th on our last expedition. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 17.] + +The weather was unusually fine, and we squatted down to our curry and +rice with better appetites. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 18.] + +Our approach was made known by fires; but we once dropped, without +their being aware of our approach, upon a boatful of Dyaks, dressed +for war, with feather cloaks, brass ornaments, and scarlet caps. The +discharge of our muskets and the capsizing of the war-boat was the work +of an instant, and those who were uninjured escaped into the jungle. + +We experienced some difficulty in finding a suitable place for our +bivouac. While examining the most eligible-looking spot on the bank of +the river, the crew of one of the _Phlegethon’s_ boats, having crept up +the opposite bank, came suddenly on a party of Dyaks, who saluted them +with a war-yell and a shower of spears. The _Phlegethon’s_ men took to +the water, much to our amusement as well as the Dyaks. + +The place we selected for the night was a large house, about 40 yards +from the edge of the river. Here we united our different messes and +passed a jovial evening. The night, however, set in with a fearful +thunderstorm. The rain continued to fall in torrents, but cleared up at +daylight, when we proceeded. + +As yet the banks of the river had been a continued garden, with +sugar-cane and bananas; the scenery now became wilder. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +We were in hopes that this morning we should have reached their +capital, Karangan, supposed to be about ten miles further on. Not +expecting to meet with any opposition for some miles, we gave +permission to Patingi Ali to advance cautiously with his light +division, with orders to fall back on the first appearance of any +natives. As the stream was running down strong, we held on to the bank, +waiting for the arrival of the second cutter, in which were Brooke and +Jenkins. + +Our pinnace and second gig having passed up, we remained about a +quarter of an hour, when the report of a few musket-shots told us that +the pirates had been fallen in with. We immediately pushed on, and as +we advanced the increased firing from our boats, and the war-yells of +some thousand Dyaks, let us know that we had met. + +It is difficult to describe the scene as I found it. About twenty boats +were jammed together, forming one confused mass--some bottom up; the +bows and sterns of others only visible, mixed up, pell-mell, with huge +rafts--and amongst which were nearly all our advanced division. + +Headless trunks, as well as heads without bodies, were lying about; +parties hand to hand spearing and krissing each other, others striving +to swim for their lives; and entangled in the common mêlée were our +advanced boats, while on both banks thousands of Dyaks were rushing +down to join in the slaughter, hurling spears and stones on the boats +below. + +For a moment I was at a loss what steps to take for rescuing our people +from the position in which they were, as the whole mass, through which +there was no passage, were floating down the stream, and the addition +of fresh boats only increased the confusion. + +Fortunately, at this critical moment one of the rafts, catching the +stump of a tree, broke this floating bridge, making a passage, through +which my gig (propelled by paddles instead of oars)--the bugler, John +Eager, in the bow--was enabled to pass. + +It occurred to Brooke and myself simultaneously, that by advancing in +the gig we should draw the attention of the pirates towards us, so as +to give time for the other boats to clear themselves. This had the +desired effect. The whole force on shore turned, as if to secure what +they rashly conceived to be their prize. + +We now advanced mid-channel, spears and stones assailing us from both +banks. Brooke’s gun would not go off, so, giving him the yoke-lines, I, +with the coxswain to load, had time to select the leaders from amongst +the savage mass, on which I kept up a rapid fire. + +Allen, in the second gig, quickly coming up, opened upon them from a +Congreve rocket-tube such a destructive fire as caused them to retire +behind the temporary barriers where they had concealed themselves +previous to the attack on Patingi Ali, and from whence they continued, +for some twenty minutes, to hurl their spears and other missiles, among +which were short lengths of bamboo loaded with stone at one end. The +_sumpitan_ was likewise freely employed, and although several of our +men were struck, no fatal results ensued. Mr. Beith, our assistant +surgeon, dexterously excised the wounds, and what poison remained was +sucked out by comrades of the wounded men. + +From this position, however, the Sekarrans retreated as our force +increased, and could not again muster courage to rally. Their loss +_must_ have been considerable. Ours might have been light had poor old +Patingi Ali attended to orders. + +He was over confident. Instead of falling back, as particularly +directed by me, on the first appearance of any of the enemy he made +a dash, followed by his little division of boats, through the narrow +pass. The enemy at once launched large rafts of bamboo and cut off his +retreat. Six war-prahus bore down, three on either side, on Patingi’s +devoted followers. One only of a crew of seventeen escaped to tell the +tale. + +When last seen by our advanced boats, Mr. Steward and Patingi Ali were +in the act (their own boats sinking) of boarding the enemy. They were +doubtless overpowered and killed, with twenty-nine others. Our wounded +in all amounted to fifty-six. + +A few miles further up was the capital of Karangan, which we carried +without further opposition. + +Having achieved the object of our expedition, we dropped leisurely down +the river; slept in our boats, with a strong guard on shore. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +On the 20th we reached the steamer, where we remained all the next day +attending to the wounded. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +On the 22nd we reached Patusen, finding everything in the wretched +state we had left it. At 8 P.M. we heard the report of a gun, which was +repeated nearer at nine, and before a signal rocket could be fired, we +were hailed by the boats of the _Samarang_, Captain Sir Edward Belcher, +and the next moment he was alongside the _Phlegethon_ with the welcome +news of having brought our May mail. + +It appears that, on arrival of _Samarang_ off Morotoba, Sir Edward +heard of the loss we had sustained, and, with his usual zeal and +activity, came to our assistance, having brought his boats no less +than 120 miles in about thirty hours. + +There were two accidents just at this moment which might have been more +serious. D’Aeth, hearing of the mail, hurried on board the _Samarang_ +in a small sampan, and was capsized. His skill in swimming saved him; +his one paddler caught hold of a boat near. No sooner than these had +been cared for, when Brooke, whose ears, always on the alert for native +cries, heard voices in trouble, and, jumping into his Singapore sampan, +pushed off with Siboo to the assistance of our Dyak followers, who had +been capsized by the bore. He rescued three out of a crew of eleven, +and these were half drowned when he reached them. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 23.] + +We moved down as far as the mouth of the Linga, and on the night of the +24th were once again in Sarawak. Here the rejoicings of the previous +year were repeated. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 28.] + +But having received information that Seriff Sahib had taken refuge in +the Linga River, and, assisted by Seriff Jaffer, was again collecting +followers, we were off again on the 28th, with the addition of the +_Samarang’s_ boats. And, determining to crush this persevering pirate, +in the middle of the night came to an anchor inside the Linga River. + +When our expedition had been watched safely outside the Batang Lupar +on its return to Sarawak, all those unfortunate families that had +concealed themselves in the jungle after the destruction of Patusen and +Undop, emerged from their hiding-places, and by means of rafts, canoes, +packerangans, or anything that would float, were in the act of crossing +towards Bunting, a flourishing place. Their dismay can well be imagined +when at daylight on the morning of the 29th they found themselves +carried by the tide close alongside the terror-spreading steamer, in +the midst of our augmented fleet. Escape to them was hopeless; nor +did the women seem to mind. It was a choice between starvation in the +jungle or coming under submission to the white man. + +I need not say that, instead of being molested, they were supplied with +such provisions and assistance as our means would permit, and allowed +to pass quietly on. We sent several of our native followers into the +Batang Lupar to inform the fugitives that our business was with the +chiefs and instigators of piracy, and not with the ryots of the country. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +With the ebb-tide a number of boats came down from the town containing +the principal chiefs, with assurances of their pacific intentions; +welcoming us with presents of poultry, goats, fruit, etc., which we +accepted, but paying for them, either in barter or hard dollars, +the fair market price. We learned that Seriff Sahib had arrived at +Pontranini, some fifty miles beyond their _kampong_. + +We immediately proceeded in chase of him, at the same time despatching +two boats to look out for Macota, who was expected at the mouth of +the river. We knew what the fate of this once powerful chief would be +if he fell into the hands of our friendlies. He was captured alive +in a deep muddy jungle into which he had thrown himself when our men +arrived. Leaving Macota a prisoner on board the _Phlegethon_, with the +flood-tide we pushed forward in pursuit of Seriff Sahib. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 30.] + +For two days we dragged our boats twenty miles up a small jungly +creek; but Seriff Sahib fled across the mountains in the direction of +the Pontiana River. So close were we on his rear that he threw away +his sword, and left behind him a child, whom he had hitherto carried, +in the jungle. Thus this notorious chief was driven, single and +unattended, out of the reach of doing any further mischief. + +The boats returned, and took up a formidable position off Bunting, +where Seriff Jaffer was summoned to a conference, which he attended, +but under compulsion from his people, who feared their _kampong_ being +destroyed. + +On this occasion I had the satisfaction of witnessing a splendid piece +of oratory delivered by Brooke in Malay. The purport of it was, as I +understood, to point out the horrors of piracy on the one hand, which +the British Government determined to suppress, and on the other the +blessings arising from peace and trade, which it was equally our wish +to cultivate; and he concluded by fully explaining that the measures +adopted by us against piracy were for the protection of the peaceful +communities along the coast. The people listened with great attention; +a pin could have been heard, had it dropped, during Brooke’s fine +speech. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +The force again reached Sarawak, and thus terminated a successful +expedition against the worst class of pirates on the coast of Borneo. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV + +_DIDO_ + + +[Sidenote: 1844. Sept. 5.] + +Steamer’s crew cutting wood, I writing distressing letters to the +friends of Wade, as well as to the father of Dr. Simpson. Hospitably +entertained by Belcher. + +Landed sundry parties after deer and hog. Oysters fine, the best things +here. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 9.] + +At an early hour started on a pleasure excursion. Late at night +anchored in the Lundu River, having tiffed by the way at one of the +small islands on splendid oysters. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 10.] + +Anchored off the town; visited, and was hospitably entertained by, the +Dyaks. In the evening had a feast and a war-dance; was in other ways +much amused. Slept in the Dyak “scullery” house. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 11.] + +Collected all the dogs and beaters and proceeded to the mouth of the +river. All sport confined to the Dyaks, we never getting a shot; very +good fun, though--a hog was caught by dogs and speared by natives. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 12.] + +Landed again early; more hogs taken by the natives. Working on towards +Santobong; capital luncheon on the finest oysters. Dined on board the +_Samarang_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +Brooke and self returned to _Dido_ in gig, twenty-five miles’ pull. +Found heavy sick-list, one marine just expired of dysentery. + +Took up quarters with Brooke at The Grove. Deputations and tenders of +allegiance from all the surrounding chiefs satisfactory. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +Preparing for moving down. Boats to finish; spars to get on board; +captured guns to embark. Visited the Rajah and the Datu, “Father of +Hopeful,” his women sprinkling us with yellow rice and gold-dust--one +graceful and pretty and well dressed. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 15.] + +Too much to do on board. Did not go off to muster. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 16.] + +At daylight saw from my window _Dido_ salute Rajah and commence +dropping down the river. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 18.] + +Went down after breakfast, accompanied by Brooke, and found my _Dido_ +at anchor off the junction. Moved further down on rising of tide. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +Williamson, Turnour, Partridge, Charlie Johnson, and Douglas came down +from Sarawak to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +Cruikshank and Williamson to dinner. Finished my claret. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Reached the mouth of the river. Present of warlike weapons from +Budrudeen. Took leave of dear Rajah Brooke, and worked the ship over +the bar of the Maratabu. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Oct. 1.] + +Arrived in Singapore. Ordered home. More anxious for passage than my +one cabin can hold. Selected a rough diamond, but great character, +one Michael Quin, lately Captain of _Minden_, hospital ship, also +Lieutenant Inglefield. I had but one cabin, but could swing more than +two cots. + +Pleasure of thoughts of home damped by news of the death of my sister, +Lady Leicester. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +News of _Pelican_ having sprung a leak; hope not. _Phlegethon_ off +for Brooke and Borneo. Dined with Oxley. His nutmeg plantation worth +seeing--cinnamon and cloves. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Lots of rain. Napier spliced this morning. Tiffin at Balestiers’ to +meet the happy pair. Good fellow Napier, and a pair well matched. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 9.] + +Up very early. On board _Diana_ steamer with Governor and Mrs. +Butterworth. Lady party; _Dido’s_ band. Returned by Rhio Straits. Dance +on board. Pleasant day. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +Called on the Blundells. Like her and her sister much. Dined with +Stevenson. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 11.] + +A snug little dinner of ten good fellows prior to a dance given by Tom +Church in honour of the _Dido’s_ Captain. Band got drunk. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +My _Dido_ visited by Governor and Mrs. Butterworth, Mrs. Blundell, and +sister--the three nicest women in Singapore. A grand parting dinner +given to me by the inhabitants of Singapore. Nervous, very, making my +speech. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Old Balestier, American Consul, on board; salutes, etc., Governor, +giving a grand dinner to “meet Captain Keppel”; ladies there; more +nervous in returning thanks. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +Weighed from Singapore. Fort saluting me. Invalids improving. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Passed mouth of the Moowar, of bygone memories. Came to off Malacca at +sunset. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +Called on Governor; both nice people. Visited Salmona and stopped to +dinner; drove in with Morrison afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +Young Barney Rodyk embarked; sadly pressed for room; made sail. +_Wolverine_ in co. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +Well ahead of _Wolverine_. Came to off Parcelar Hill; boarded by a +boat from a ship full of pilgrims from Mecca, having struck on a bank +with loss of rudder and hard up for water. Sent _Wolverine_ to her +assistance. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +No use fretting about the wind. Hardly consider myself as homeward +bound until round Acheen Head. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +Decided, against Master, on southern passage, and anchored off Penang +at sunset. Went to Captain’s house, the most comfortable quarters in +India. Issued invitations: “Captain Keppel and officers request the +pleasure of everybody’s company to-morrow evening.” Dined with Sir +William and Lady Norris. Mrs. Hall at home. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +Visited various hospitals with Cantor--one of lunatics of all sorts. +Got “Chopsticks” from school. Dined with old Lewis. Capital ball and +supper given by “Didos.” Kept up till daylight did appear. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 31.] + +Weighed before turning in; very seedy, though. Fort saluted me with 13 +guns. Really off for home. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +Lots of talk about the ball; everybody pleased. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 5.] + +One of the invalids from _Driver_ died--a young man; the effects of +Hong Kong climate. Committed his remains to the deep. Sensible to the +last that he was going, but did not seem to trouble himself as to the +road; a good man, too, in his way. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +Anniversary of the birthday of Princess Royal. Run of 251 miles in last +twenty-four hours. + +[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Dec. 4.] + +My cabin-meeting of the fine arts. Inglefield doing me pictures of my +_Dido_. Ran into Simon’s Bay with a leading wind, saluting the flag of +my kind friend Sir Jos. Percy, of Mediterranean memory, whose flag was +now flying on board _Winchester_--Captain Charles Eden. Found George +Woodhouse here in the _Thunderbolt_, 6, a steam vessel. In fact, I felt +myself already at home--scarcely a stone on shore that did not convey +some pleasant reminiscence of happy days. In every house a home. While +refitting I had scarcely time to call on half my kind friends. Among +those I undertook to entertain at my table, in addition to my two +passengers, was Edward Drummond, a nephew of the Admiral, and about +to enter the Church. [Years afterwards I was his guest at Cadland, +Southampton, and he the head of the great Drummond Bank at Charing +Cross.] My other guest, a quiet, retiring Swede, who had served his +term in our service, by name Adleborg, a clever artist as well as a +good fellow. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Luncheon with Lady Sarah Maitland--like the Lennoxes, nice family. At +Wynberg; a very agreeable dinner and evening. Kerr Hamilton there. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 18.] + +Ship ready. Stopped to luncheon with Admiral at one. Went over +_Winchester_: nice order and beautifully clean. My _Dido_ under way, +Charles Eden putting me on board. Outside, a freshening breeze from +the south-east, but we had to weather the Cape. Topgallant sails over +double-reefed topsails; a strong set against us. It was not until +close to the Anvil and Bellows that we felt the full strength of the +current. The Master and self had taken our position on the forecastle, +each holding on to the up-and-down part of the fore-topsail sheets, +spray breaking over us. We now became aware of what we had undertaken. +On looking under the foot of the fore-sail, the Cape and South Africa +appeared to be rushing at us: it was too late either to bear up or +attempt to tack. Held on, I am afraid, with eyes closed. The Master +was the first to call out, “Wave weathered”; the offset from the rocky +Cape alone saved us: we appeared to be rushing up the west side of the +African coast. On the weather-quarter the Cape appeared close to, but +towering far above our mast-heads. By degrees, but slowly, we drew off +the west coast. I do not believe that any other ship could, under the +circumstances, have been saved. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Adleborg a first-rate artist, clever at allegorical sketches of _Dido_, +which I value; very clever and witty they are. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +2 A.M.--Anchored at St. Helena. Visited old Solomon and his shop; also +Colonel and Mrs. Trelawney. Weighed at 1.30 P.M. According to notice, +made sail 3 P.M. Found _Larne_ and _Rapid_. + +[Sidenote: 1845. Jan. 13.] + +Sails splitting and ropes giving way; foolish economy, ships not being +better supplied. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +Breeze freshening up; thermometer falling; bitter cold, hazy weather. +Hauled in; made the land to the eastward of Bill of Portland; bore up +for the Needles: arrived at Spithead. Reported myself to my old friend +Hyde Parker, Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard, Commander-in-Chief +Sir Charles Rowley being on leave. It was blowing fresh from the S.E., +but having an experienced pilot, gave the Master leave to stay on shore +the night, and sent my gig on board. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +Admiral Parker said I had better call in the afternoon, as he had +telegraphed to the Admiralty. I then visited my old friend Casher, the +wine merchant, and inquired if he knew anything of the whereabouts of +my wife, as he had always forwarded parcels between us. He informed me +that she had come home from Boulogne: only two days ago he had sent +parcels to my place at Droxford, where she had joined her father, who, +with his family, had taken possession. + +The days were short, and it was dark before I got back to the Admiral; +he informed me that _Dido_ was ordered to Sheerness. I ventured to +state that I had ordered my gig on board. He said: “I have anticipated +that; you will find the _Fanny_ tender fast to a buoy at the harbour, +with orders to take you off.” + +Now this _was_ a go; I had been more than four years absent: my wife +within thirteen miles. + +I went to Casher’s and inquired if he had a man acquainted with +Gosport, or any one who could find a Mr. Allen, Master of the _Dido_, +and bring him to me. I waited a good while, in cocked hat, sword, and +epaulettes, before the poor Master appeared in pea-jacket and oilskin, +etc. I soon explained the state of affairs. + +He was just about my size. It ended by my saying that he must change +clothes with me. The _Fanny_ was waiting at the buoy. He would +personate me, find orders on board, and obey them. Allen muttered +something about losing my commission. We went off in a wherry. On +his getting on board he received his orders, opened and read them. I +touched my hat, and said “Goodbye, Sir,” and told the waterman to land +me at Gosport. Reached Droxford in time for dinner! Brother-in-law soon +rigged me in proper costume. + +Following morning took wife and self off in a yellow post-chaise, but +my danger of being found out was not over. The Captain Superintendent, +W. H. Shireff, was an old friend of mine; fond of driving a team of +horses, and we used to think he managed it in a seamanlike way. + +[Sidenote: Sheerness, Jan. 28.] + +When we arrived at the dockyard gates it was luckily quite dark. Drove +to the Superintendent’s house and took him at once into my confidence. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +No news of _Dido_! Shireff gave us a steamer to Sheerness. Took a fly +to the pilot, where we had lodged while fitting out. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +It was the third night before _Dido_ arrived, when, in the early +morning, the good pilot Taylor took me off and I returned the Master +his hat and pea-jacket. Soon after 8 A.M. reported arrival of _Dido_ to +Vice-Admiral Sir John Chambers, K.C.B. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +My _Dido_ inspected for last time by Admiral Sir John White. Very cold +and rainy weather. Men showed themselves well to the last. My brother +Tom came down. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 4.] + +Getting on with the dismantling. Went on board with Tom and wife. +Bitter cold weather. Tom stopping with us--affectionate, good fellow. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Preparations for paying progressing. Dirty and bitter cold weather +continuing. Custom House people troublesome. Smuggling progressing. +Paying off days much alike! + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +My reign in _Dido_ finished this morning. Paid off, men receiving +about £4000. Glad as I am to get back, I do not leave my ship without +feelings of regret. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV + +ENGLAND + + +[Sidenote: 1845. Feb. 12.] + +_Dido_ paid off. Arrived with wife in London to enjoy half-pay! My +father living in Berkeley Square, we knew where to find a dinner. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Summoned to Admiralty. Gracious reception by Lord Haddington. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +News from Brooke. Labuan ceded to the British Government. Brooke had +entrusted me with his private diary, and a _carte-blanche_ to use my +discretion about publishing--a more responsible charge than I was then +aware of. I had a friend, Jerdan, editor of the _Court Journal_. After +consultations it was decided to publish, under the title of “Expedition +to Borneo of H.M.S. _Dido_.” + +[Sidenote: Feb. 23.] + +At my brother-in-law, Stephenson’s, in Arlington Street, always had a +bed. + +[Sidenote: Woolwich, Feb. 23.] + +To Woolwich to see Commodore Sir Francis Collier, in charge of the +dockyard, his broad pennant flying on the _William and Mary_ yacht. +Visited also George Goldsmith, now married, living there. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 3.] + +Went to Portsmouth on a visit to my late Chief, Admiral Hyde Parker and +his charming family. Remained a week. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +Attended levee with Granville Loch. Presented by Sir William Parker on +return from China. Her Majesty said something nice to me, which, in my +nervousness, I was sorry not to have heard. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +My Mids, D’Aeth and Jenkins, passed first and second out of the lot at +Portsmouth. My father gave me the copy of a correspondence between Lord +Haddington and himself about my being the only Captain not recommended +for the C.B. Lord Haddington wrote: “Captain Keppel’s ship had not been +under fire in action.” Father stated that _Dido_ was not the only ship. +Lord Haddington replied: “It is evident you allude to the _Endymion_, +Captain Grey, whose name had been mentioned to General Sir Hugh Gough +by Brigadier-General Schoedde.” Father could not help thinking it +was a hard case, which Lord Haddington admitted, and promised that +my name should be down for the first vacancy. I mention this here, +as the subject was alluded to years afterwards. Sir Grey Skipwith, +recollecting my weakness, offered me a mount with the Warwickshire +Hounds, and before leaving town I dined with that distinguished +soldier, Sir William Keir Grant. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 26.] + +Quickly found my way to Newbold Hall. Sir Grey and his large family +charming as ever. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Started from stables, the usual dozen red coats. Meet at Shuckborough, +found at Cranborough. Got away with the first flight. Not recollecting +the country, found myself with about a score charging the river Leam. +Reached opposite bank, which was rotten. Fell back and found the +bottom. I believe only two got out safe. My new pink came out black. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +Back to London to dine with Sir Thomas Trowbridge. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +To Greenwich by rail, to dine in hospital with that grand old Admiral, +Sir Robert Stopford, his happy lady and family looking so well. + +[Sidenote: April 11.] + +Templer and I enjoyed an excellent dinner Jerdan gave us at the Garrick +Club. + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +Mr. Edward Ellice kindly lent us his house, 18 Arlington Street. +Admiral and Mrs. Sam Rowley dined with us on their way through London, +she informing me I was left in his will, heir and executor. + +[Sidenote: May 2.] + +We attended the Queen’s Drawing-Room. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +Lunched with the Hawleys, who had established themselves in Halkin +Street. He had a charming yacht, the _Mischief_, with a woman for +figurehead, which his wife disapproved of. An image of a monkey was +executed to replace the lady; but there was so much trouble and legal +expense in changing a figurehead, that the monkey was transferred to a +box seat over my coach-house door. As I had no carriage the groom was +not jealous. + +[Sidenote: May 19.] + +Archie MacDonald dined with us prior to the Queen’s Ball. On that +occasion, although an old Fusilier Guardsman, he hid himself behind a +screen till the ceremony was over. + +[Sidenote: Droxford, May 22.] + +Glad to take possession of our snug little place at Droxford. A +four-horse coach running between Gosport and London passed our door +twice daily: a great convenience. William Garnier’s place, Rooksbury +Park, was within two miles of us. + +[Sidenote: July 3.] + +In London met Sir Henry Pottinger: had a walk and a talk about China +times. + +[Sidenote: Droxford, July 9.] + +Arthur Cunynghame, our China friend, came to stay with us. Also Fred +Horton. + +[Sidenote: July 15.] + +Met George Delmé at the station. With niece to see departure of the +fleet from Spithead. Too late to get out, so took a cruise in the +Freemart Fair. + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +At Cams. In Delmé’s drag to Goodwood Races. Delmé Radcliffe, Onslow, +the two Foleys, etc. My father being of the Goodwood party, wife and I +were invited into the Duke’s end of the grand stand. Unaccustomed to +racing society, my wife was a trifle nervous. However, observing my +father in deep conversation with a light weight in a blue coat with +brass buttons, yellow, leathers and mahogany tops, she inquired of Lady +Albemarle if that was His Lordship’s jockey. To which this amiable lady +replied in a loud voice: “No, my dear. That is the Duke of Bedford.” + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +In Delmé’s drag. Ten outside! + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +The great Cup Day. Twenty-one horses started. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +Concluded a splendid week’s racing. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 6.] + +We left London for Quidenham. Glad to be where I had passed my youth. +The dear old father, no longer able to shoot, had taken to breeding +bloodstock. The park near the river was cut into paddocks, where I saw +some promising youngsters for the Derby. I was not sorry when Lady +Albemarle inquired of my wife how long we were going to stay. We had +some dear old friends in the neighbourhood: Partridges, Surtees, Eyres, +and others. Went to Hockham on the 22nd. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 29.] + +A day in London on business. By rail to Chesterford, and chaise to my +friend Alexander Cotton: the same who, as a lieutenant, was capsized +with me at the mouth of Portsmouth Harbour in October 1830, he +having now succeeded to the Hildersham property. Cotton’s house very +comfortable; his claret uncommon good. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Rode after breakfast to Newmarket. In my father’s stables saw +“Emperor,” “Smuggler Bill,” “Little Dorrit,” “Sir Rupert.” + +[Sidenote: Oct. 2.] + +Cotton and self to Newmarket. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +Left Cotton to visit the Partridges at Hockham. Met at Harling Road by +my old shipmate George Partridge. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 4.] + +Out shooting. I killed eleven partridges and one pheasant. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 6.] + +Champion Partridge came over. With the exception of a couple of days +with George Birche’s Harriers had a capital week’s shooting. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 12.] + +Walked over to Larling Parsonage, where I found my old friend Colonel +Eyre, 98th, with his brother Edward the clergyman. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +George Wodehouse, Charles Partridge, and I rode over to Quidenham to +see the brood-mares and young stock. Left Hockham for London. I was now +in possession of a couple of hunters. Intending to enjoy myself, sent +them on to Newbold, having business in London. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 26.] + +From London by rail, in company with Joseph Hawley, George Payne, +Shelley, Greville, and other turf men to Chesterford. They to +Newmarket. I to friend Cotton. + +[Sidenote: Hildersham, Oct. 27.] + +To Newmarket. Racing particularly good. Cambridgeshire stakes won by +“Alum.” Twenty-eight started, beating “Baron,” the winner of St. Leger, +and Cæsarwitch, etc. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 30.] + +This morning’s racing good. Backed my father’s colt “Radulphus” in the +Glasgow, and lost my money. + +[Sidenote: Newbold, Nov. 7.] + +Went with Harry Skipwith to Warwickshire Hunt; meet at Stonleigh Park, +a beautiful place. Next day to see the Athelstane; meet at the Cross. +Some pretty fencing from cover to cover and plenty of foxes. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 10.] + +Sent horses to Leighton Buzzard. A hearty welcome by Delmé Radcliffe at +Hitchin Priory. The Eliot Yorkes staying there. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 12.] + +Having sent horses on with Delmé Radcliffe, to Brand’s hounds, Delmé +having been Master of Hounds was proud to mount “Heki,” and delighted +with him, as I was with my “Tom.” The run good for this country. We +went and returned in a yellow post-chaise. + +[Sidenote: Hitchin Priory, Nov. 15.] + +Mounted by Radcliffe. Went with the Harriers on his “Touch-and-Go”; +supposed to be the best pack of the sort in England. Good for pastime, +but it does not do after fox-hunting. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +With Brand’s hounds: rode “Heki,” nothing particular by way of a run. +Pleased with my horse though. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 20.] + +Harriers met at the Priory. Pretty and fast thing. Radcliffe hunting +them. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 21.] + +With Brand’s hounds. Rode “Tom.” Found at Boxwood. Good run of 52 +minutes. Was to the front the whole time. Radcliffe got the brush for +my wife in commemoration of “Tom’s” performances. Killed at Yardley. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +A right good run on “Heki” with the Harriers. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +In afternoon rode “Tom” with the Harriers and had an excellent run of +50 minutes, the hare running better than many foxes. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26.] + +Sent “Heki” on to meet the Cambridgeshire at Shear Hutch. Sharp run +over heavy country. I got the brush. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +No meet. Rode to see the Charles Radcliffes at Halwell. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +With Radcliffe to meet the Puckeridge at Bedlington: a sharp thing. Got +a cropper, but was in time to get the brush. + +[Sidenote: Gilston Park, Dec. 1.] + +By rail to Burnt Mill, where I met Henry Seymour and Brice Pearse, who +took us to Gilston Park, a nice old place he had hired for farming +purposes. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +Seymour and myself to meet the Puckeridge Hounds at Pelham. Rode +“Heki”: a good gallop, leaving off fourteen miles from home. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +With Brice Pearse to a city stable. Ostler brought out an Irish +chestnut mare just under fifteen hands. On my inquiring if she could +jump, a six-barred gate was placed across the paved passage road +leading to the stables, which she jumped without trouble or hesitation. +I paid £23 for her, and named her “Ticket” because she cleared the +gates. She could not walk, but persevered in a jog trot to the end of +the longest day. End of season, sold her for £70 to the Pytchley Hunt +for a whip’s horse. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 5.] + +An idle day; mostly passed in the stable. Rode Pearse’s pony to Harlow +with Henry Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 6.] + +Henry Seymour and I posted twenty-two miles to meet of Puckeridge +Hounds. Had sent “Heki” on; a good run well worth the distance. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +By early train to London and on from Euston Square to Catton Hall. Fred +Horton met us at the station. + +[Sidenote: Catton Hall, Dec. 9.] + +Catton, a nice old place. Pretty grounds--good stabling. Drove with +Fred Horton in a dogcart. Granville Loch arrived. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Four guns. Bromley, Horton, Loch, and self to shoot. Pretty shooting: +42 head returned. I bagged 2 rabbits, 5 pheasants, and 11 hares. Fred +Horton shot, as he thought, a hare creeping in a hedge, which proved to +be a fox. Gave one of the beaters half a sovereign to bury it! + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +Stormy morning. Rode “Ticket” to meet of Meynall Ingram’s hounds at +Gorsley Ley. Found immediately; was fortunate in getting well away. +Pretty run for some twelve miles in an enclosed country. Long ride +home. + +[Sidenote: Catton Hall, Dec. 12.] + +The Donnington Hounds met near Derby; rode over to Osmaston to dine and +sleep. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 13.] + +Sat with Lady Wilmot. My China boy “Chopsticks” much grown and very +spoiled. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +After breakfast rode back to Catton by Twyford Ferry: best road for +riding. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 15.] + +Ingram Meynall’s hounds meeting at Drakelow. Mr. and Lady Sophia De +Veux. Rode “Ticket”: bad scenting day, and huntsmen no great things. +Ergo no run; though a find at Drakelow. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +Rode “Heki” with the Atherstone. Meet at Warton; much pleasanter having +a companion to ride to covert with. Two good runs; though a rainy +afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Catton, Dec. 18.] + +General A’Court to dinner with a handsome daughter. + +[Sidenote: Newbold, Dec. 20.] + +Took leave of Lady and Miss Horton. I rode “Heki”; groom on “Ticket” +to Osmaston. Fred Horton took care of wife by rail. Lord John Russell +unable to form a ministry. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Christmas Day. My first in England for some time. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +The Donnington Hounds met at Cork Park. A beautiful place belonging to +Sir John Crewe. “Ticket” fell at a fence and gave me a cropper. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +Wife to Newbold Vicarage. I on to London, _en route_ for Hockham. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI + +SHORE TIME--STUDY STEAM + + +[Sidenote: 1846. Jan. 1.] + +At Hockham shooting. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7.] + +By rail to Rugby and on to Newbold. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 10.] + +Mounted Grey Skipwith. Hunt with the Atherstone at Coombe Abbey. A +goodish run. “Heki” a trifle lame. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 12.] + +Departure of Skipwiths in various directions, preparatory to the +Warwickshire Hunt Ball. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +Grey, Sidmouth, and I to meet the Pytchley at Crick. Certainly the +finest run I had witnessed; George Payne giving me the brush. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Went shares in a pair of posters with Grey Skipwith to meet the +Warwickshire at Shuckborough. “Ticket” sent on from Newbold. Found, and +fell at a brook. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +At Admiralty. Saw Lord Haddington. By steam to Woolwich. Only time to +look at _Terrible_ of large dimensions. Dined with Frank Collier. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Breakfast with Tufnell and Fred Horton. Attended dinner given by Naval +Club to Lord Haddington on leaving Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +Up early for Rugby, where I had “Ticket” and hunting things sent. With +the Warwickshire Hounds. Meet at Dunchurch. Capital run. Returned to +Newbold. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +Rode “Heki” with Grey Skipwith to Leamington. Took his mare and £30 in +exchange for “Ticket.” + +[Sidenote: Leamington, Feb. 2.] + +“Heki” falling lame, left him at Leamington and returned by rail to +Rugby. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Took leave of Newbold. Established ourselves in lodgings at Leamington, +for wife to be near Doctor Jephson. Horses at Stanley’s. “Heki” still +lame. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 4.] + +[Sidenote: Feb. 7.] + +Grey Skipwith came to dine and sleep. Letter from Mrs. Rowley +announcing death of grand old Admiral Sir Josias, and enclosing a copy +of his will, in which, should he survive his wife, after legacies, he +had left everything to me--a kindness I had no right to expect. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Leamington full of lame hunters. By train to London. + +[Sidenote: London, Feb. 11.] + +Horton appointed to command of _Cygnet_, 6 gun brig, on coast of +Africa. Attended levee of First Lord. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +Great naval dinner at Thatched House Club. Prince George of Cambridge +there. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 13.] + +Eleven train to Leamington. Wife better. + +[Sidenote: Leamington, Feb. 18.] + +Rode with Grey Skipwith to see the Steeplechase at Southam. An amusing +scene, but Leamington is not the most amusing place for a man who +cannot keep horses. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 21.] + +Sold “Heki” for £15. Once refused 100 guineas!! + +[Sidenote: Feb. 28.] + +Dined with First Lord of the Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +By steamboat to see Frank Collier at Woolwich. He, Nic Lockyer, +and I went over the _Terrible_, an enormous vessel, 1847 tons, 800 +horse-power. + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 4.] + +News from the Enlightened States. More warlike than ever. Lost no time +in tendering services to Lord Ellenborough. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +Met Sir Charles Fitzroy, with boys, Augustus and George, grown into +men: little Mary into a tall handsome mother of three children. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +At Leamington. Dined at Lady Farnham’s: grub good, but seven ladies!! +Saunders and self only gentlemen. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +To Coventry races. Racing good as far as horses being well matched. +Rough attendance. + +[Sidenote: Leamington, Mar. 18.] + +Sported phaeton and pair of horses for the three days’ racing. + +Delmé Radcliffe, Gore, and two Skipwiths to dine with us. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 19.] + +Steeplechase Day. Leamington full of ’legs and all sorts of rogues. +Party of six to dine. “Grand, for us!” First-rate steeplechase. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +Acted as chaperon to Amelia Williams; she riding Wood’s horse. +Warwickshire meet at Stonleigh, afterwards steeplechase at Southam. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +Bury came to us from London to go to the second ball: he dancing mad. + +[Sidenote: Leamington, Mar. 23.] + +A good steeplechase at Warwick--country heavy--“Pioneer” winning--a +splendid horse. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +Mounted J. Wood to see the meet at Ladbrook. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Dining with Stephenson, Fox Maule, Lord Ebrington, Maria, and brother +Edward. + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 27.] + +Dined with the Duchess of Inverness; large party. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +Talk with Lord Francis Egerton about Brooke and Borneo. _Constance_ +frigate offered to Walker, who appears undecided. Dined with the +Hawleys--family party. That beast “Chow” dying. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +Went to Woolwich to look for lodgings for my studying steam. By Frank +Collier’s advice closed with a Captain Dwyer--not much; however, the +best. + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 30.] + +Took leave of Fred Horton at the club, lucky that he has not more than +a year to run in _Cygnet_ on the coast. Dined with Ralph Brandling; +Adelphi afterwards. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 31.] + +By express to Portsmouth. Dined with the Hyde Parkers in Dockyard; +Admiral in great form. + +[Sidenote: Leamington, April 19.] + +Dined with the Gores, who have been very kind to us. Fare-thee-well +Leamington. With horses and money I should find you more agreeable. + +[Sidenote: April 23.] + +Took departure for London. Letter from Brooke, and news from Borneo not +pleasing to Wise. Government slow in acting for him. To Droxford by 3 +P.M. train. + +[Sidenote: May 1.] + +Took our departure from our snug little Droxford. In London by 2 P.M. +Got Mrs. Rowley her pension at Admiralty. To Woolwich by steamer. Took +up quarters in Captain Dwyer’s house. Wife not taken with our new abode. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +To church in a sail-loft in the Dockyard. Went to Greenwich in the +afternoon: looked at houses. + +[Sidenote: May 5.] + +To Greenwich. Decided on No. 17 Croom’s Hill at £150 per annum; nice +situation, looking into the Park. + +[Sidenote: May 6.] + +Letter from Commander Dwyer refusing to let me off under three months’ +rent! Unlucky dog that I am, £36 thrown away. So much for having to +deal with a gentleman. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +To see the Horse Artillery exercise. Edward Coke and Sir E. Poore to +call; they going to West Indies in June for amusement. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +To London. Saw my father; well in health; going to Newmarket. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Receiving a letter from Sir William Symonds, asking if he might +nominate me to command his _Spartan_, started for Somerset House, and +found from Edge that I was wanted, as in case of _Constance_, as a +second string to his bow. + +[Sidenote: May 15.] + +Attended the meeting of the Committee for the Foundation of a Church +Mission-House and School in Borneo. Some large subscriptions received. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Again over to Greenwich; hard bargain with Mrs. Kemp. Georgie Crosbie +and early dinner. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +Took my first lesson in steam at Woolwich. + +Hearing that a foreigner was inquiring after me, avoided him; it turned +out afterwards to be an old Spanish friend, General Mazzerado of +Barcelona, who stopped to dinner. + +By Templer heard of a most diabolical massacre committed in Borneo +Proper. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Commencing steam study in earnest. + +A Princess born. (Princess Helena.) + +[Sidenote: May 26.] + +Breakfast at half-past eight. Start at nine to be in Dockyard by ten. +Pleasant enough while the weather is fine. Dined at Greenwich Hospital +with Sir Robert Stopford to celebrate Her Majesty’s birthday. Pleasant +party. + +[Sidenote: May 27.] + +Derby Day, and I not there. Won by Mr. Gully’s “Phyrrus.” + +[Sidenote: May 28.] + +The sad news of the massacre of Rajah Muda Hassim and family, and his +gallant brother, Budrudeen. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +Greenwich Fair. Joined George King and his party in a small Whitebait +dinner at the “Crown and Sceptre.” Paraded the Fair afterwards. + +[Sidenote: June 11.] + +Dined with Sir James Gordon, Lieutenant-Governor of Greenwich Hospital. +Though he lost a leg in Hostes’ _Lissa_ frigate action, Gordon +frequently walks from London. + +[Sidenote: London, June 13.] + +Attended the wedding of Amelia Williams and Mark Wood--also to +_déjeûner_ given by the Bulkeleys. Lovely day; pretty wedding; good +breakfast; everything right. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +Early dinner with the Hawleys. Tattersalls and Park afterwards. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +To Woolwich Dockyard, Dined with Colonel Parker to meet kind friend, +his brother, the Admiral. + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +Dined with Commander and Mrs. Dalyell in the Hospital. He was for nine +years a prisoner of war at Verdun; released when Napoleon I. went to +Elba. Anyone interested in the record of a sailor’s life during the +end of the last century and early part of this should read that of +my old friend, who was now a pensioner, with apartments in Greenwich +Hospital.[1] + +[1] See O’Byrne’s _Naval Biographies_, 1848. + +The Dalyells are kind people and have exceedingly good taste. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +To Woolwich by steam, meeting on board _Lord Selkirk_, Captain Ross, +and Ranelagh. Went to Arsenal. Georgie and Jack Crosbie and Grey +Skipwith to dine. + +[Sidenote: June 18.] + +An impertinent letter from Wise: answered him. + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +To Woolwich by steam. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +Called on Sir James Gordon and on Sir Watkin Pell. + +Sir Watkin Pell--a wooden leg, and a wonderful clever pony on which he +used to ride on a three-plank bridge when visiting ships fitting out in +dock. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Dined at the Stopfords. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +Dined in London with my father; returning afterwards to Greenwich. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +We went to see the muster of Greenwich schoolboys. Interesting sight. +800 of them dining in same room. Ministers about to resign. + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Represented Brooke at the christening of Templer’s boy, named James +Lethbridge Brooke. + +[Sidenote: July. 13.] + +Business at Admiralty. Saw Lord Auckland about Borneo. + +[Sidenote: July. 16.] + +Concocted a letter for Lord Auckland, recommending possession of Labuan. + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +Capital dinner with Sir Watkin Pell. To the Artillery ball at Woolwich. +Nothing could be better done. + +[Sidenote: July. 21.] + +Dined with Sir Robert Stopford. Greenwich ball in the evening; very +good. + +[Sidenote: July. 24.] + +To London with Jack Templer to see Lord Auckland concerning Brooke. + +Very mysterious. Government evidently doing something. Afraid, I think, +of Mr. Hume. + +[Sidenote: July. 29.] + +To steam studies. Met Board of Admiralty in the Dockyard. Received +intimation that my services would be again required in Borneo. + +[Sidenote: July. 30.] + +Skipwith and ourselves to dine with the Newdigates, who have pretty +place at Blackheath. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 3.] + +After studies visited famous mulberry tree in Collier’s garden. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +Students in steam met at Blackwall to examine the machinery of the _Sir +Henry Pottinger_, a merchant steamer. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Accompanied Captain Stewart in the Trinity yacht to meet the Admiralty +Board at Gravesend to inspect several plans for lights to be carried by +steamers at sea to prevent collision. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +Invited Roberts to dinner, to meet Edward Rice, who did not arrive +until late. + +Rice to join _Amphion_ should I get her! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 27.] + +At Admiralty to stop Comber being sent off to sea. Partly succeeded. +Came back to dine with Sir Watkin Pell. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +Woolwich, preparatory to being examined by Lloyd. Passed an hour in +the Superintendent’s mulberry tree! + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +By Gravesend steamer to Purfleet, where Sir Thomas Lennard sent his +carriage to take us to Belhus for three days; brother Tom having +married his daughter. Large party; hearty welcome. This is a nice +old-fashioned place. Our room the one in which Queen Elizabeth slept. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 9.] + +After luncheon we were taken a drive with the team round the country. +Went to Mr. Tower’s place: he has some fine old pictures. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 10.] + +Took leave; pony carriage taking us to Gray’s Pier. Embarked for +Blackwall loaded with game and fruit. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 17.] + +I dined with the Artillery mess at Woolwich. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +To London to attend Borneo Church Mission. Capture of Brunei. Saw +Mundy’s letter to Baillie Hamilton at the Admiralty relative to the +affairs there. + +On return found Edward Rice from Dane Court. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +To Admiralty to deposit with Lord Auckland my father’s correspondence +with Lord Haddington relative to my not getting the C.B. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 28.] + +We took the two charming Dalyell girls to the Woolwich Garrison races. +Very good fun: heats and that sort of thing; gentlemen riders. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Visited Sir Samuel Brown of chain-cable notoriety, and saw several +ingenious inventions. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +To London. Wife on a visit to the Roes at Fulham. + +Among the intimate friends of the Crosbie family were Sir Frederick +and Lady Roe. His father was a well-to-do merchant residing in the +City. My father amused me with the following:--As Master of the House +he had to attend State occasions. On going to the City, Sir Frederick +Roe was so active with his mounted police as to draw the attention of +His Majesty, who inquired who he was. Father informed the King that +it was Sir Frederick Roe, the Head of the Police. His Majesty noticed +another officer equally active, and very like Sir Frederick, who my +father informed His Majesty was a younger brother, likewise in the +Police, who helped his brother on these occasions, and they went by +the name of “Hard” Roe and “Soft” Roe. This amused His Majesty so much +that he wanted to know about the father. This rather puzzled my parent, +who, having volunteered so much, did not like to plead ignorance, but +answered “They call him, Sir, Paternoster Row!” + +[Sidenote: Oct. 8.] + +Ascertained at the Admiralty they had no idea of forming a Settlement +on the Bornean coast. + +Power of a “wise” confidential agent beginning to tell. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +To Ranelagh House, Fulham, to join wife at Sir Frederick and Lady Roe’s. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Having been invited by Sir Charles and Lady Mary Fox to dinner at +Addison Road, sent to Greenwich for clothes. Wife dining with the +Dalyells. + +[Sidenote: London, Oct. 16.] + +Found letter at club from Symonds, stating that he had applied to Lord +Auckland to appoint me to _Cambrian_ for trial with Thetis. + +Dined with Sir Robert Stopford; a large party. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 17.] + +To Admiralty to inquire about the _Cambrian_; find I am the favourite, +Lord Auckland hovering between Smith and myself for the appointment. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 21.] + +Dined on Guard at St. James’ with Colonel Codrington. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +Nothing decided about _Cambrian_, Lord Auckland waiting for Sir Charles +Adam’s opinion. Still hope. + +Dined at the Newdigates. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +Reports of my appointment to _Cambrian_; hope they may prove true. +Stephenson writing to thank Lord Auckland. + +Dined with John Doyle and Lady Susan North. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +To see Admiral Dundas. Early proposal of appointing me to _Amphion_. No +fancy for her, while there is a chance of _Cambrian_. + +We dined at Colonel Parker’s. On return found letter from Dundas, a +damper on hopes of _Cambrian_. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Baillie Hamilton in the Rangers’ House. Commander Henry Eden married to +Miss Rivers. Wish to get Lieutenant Rivers as my First. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +Dined with Lord Auckland. + +[Sidenote: Dane Court, Oct. 31.] + +At Dane Court with the Rices; like Dane Court and all its people. +Everybody receiving me so kindly; the children too, as if they had +known me all their lives. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +A walk with Fanny and Anne in forenoon. Afternoon to Dover. Saw 43rd +and H. Skipwith inspected on the heights. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 4.] + +Received twelve guineas due to members of Old Navy Club, Bond Street. +Retirement list out, of 180 Captains. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 5.] + +Dined with my father. Shireff wanting me as Flag-Captain. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 6.] + +To Woolwich to see Sir Frank Collier for last time as a Commodore. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 8.] + +Dined in London with Stephenson. Meeting Hastie and Sir John Hobhouse. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 9.] + +Lord Mayor’s Day. Promotion in Army and Navy. Dined with Admiral +Dundas. Large party at Lord Auckland’s in the evening. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 10.] + +Club full in anxious expectation of “Gazette.” The greatest boon that +has been granted to the Navy. + +Dined with General Mundy and family. Disappointed about the promotions. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 16.] + +Dined with Sir Robert Stopford. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Farewell dinner with the Dalyells. We have been treated at Greenwich +with the greatest kindness and hospitality. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 19.] + +Dined at Club. A meeting of old “Magiciennes,” Plumridge, Knox, Forbes. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Called for Stephenson at the Excise: with him to Cambridge, where, +after having enjoyed much worth seeing, dined with Henry Coke: Augustus +Stephenson and young Lord Durham of the party. + +We slept at the University Arms. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +Visited my brother George at his office, Downing Street. Chance of my +being appointed to _Amphitrite_. Returned with Pearse to Gilston. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +Brice Pearse mounting me; after several hours, without finding, +finished with a fast twenty minutes with Conyer’s hounds. In first at +the death, and got the brush. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Party to shoot. Keeper reserved best ground until too dark--only a +small bag. + +[Sidenote: Elsenham, Dec. 3.] + +Took leave, after luncheon, of our friends. On a visit to the Rushs at +Elsenham: a pretty place. Much taste and considerable expense in the +making. + +H. Byng, _alias_ “Buckets,” with his wife to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Newbold, Dec. 5.] + +By early train to London. In time to leave Euston Square for Newbold by +eleven o’clock. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +Sharp frost. Hunters more expense than profit. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Enjoyed Christmas at Newbold, sitting down twenty all told. Sir +Grey presiding. Eight sons, five daughters, two husbands and wives +and ourselves. The younger son--a nervous boy, studying for Holy +Orders--was called on to say grace; after hesitation got up and said: +“For what we are going to receive, the Lord have mercy on us.” A more +cheery Christmas could not be. + +Having business in London, and hoping for employment, left my poor +invalid under care of the celebrated Doctor Jephson, at Leamington. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 28.] + +To my second home, the Stephensons in Arlington Street. + +Dinner off Norfolk turkey, and a hot devil by sister. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 29.] + +At Hockham shooting, with the Partridges, Charles, George, Paterson, +and self. Shot with my new Westley-Richards. Much pleased with it. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII + +SHORE TIME + + +[Sidenote: 1847. Jan. 2.] + +As brother Tom could not, with increasing family, come to me, I went to +his parsonage at Creake in Norfolk, where we were joined by my other +clergyman brother Edward. Creake only a walk from Holkham. + +This entailed visits to other dear friends; but as these have not much +to do with the promised sailor’s life, must not detain readers. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 3.] + +_Sunday._--Both brothers preached; I suppose the elder had choice. +Reserved opinion. + +Recollect some time ago, when brother Edward preached at Quidenham, +venturing to remark that his sermon was rather lengthy. He replied: “It +now lies at the bottom of a heap and you won’t hear it again for three +years.” + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5, Holkham.] + +Went out, fifteen guns, 1085 head. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 6.] + +Drove back with Napier, rector at Holkham, elder brother of Brooke’s +Singapore friend. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7, Holkham.] + +Shooting the end of the park in the direction of Warham; twelve guns, +973 head. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 8.] + +Another good day’s shooting; 1073 head. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 9.] + +News of the safety of Edward Coke, who had been buffalo-shooting in the +United States. Never once doubted it. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +Tom and I drove to cousin Fred Keppel’s at Lexham, about eighteen +miles. Hearty welcome. No better fellows than Fred and Edward Keppel, +“the Cheeryble Brothers.” + +[Sidenote: Lexham, Jan. 12.] + +Went out to enjoy the best shooting Fred had left. Six guns: Fred +Fitzroy, Derrick Hoste, Fred, Edward, Tom, and self. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 13.] + +Wife improving at Leamington under Jephson. Fred Keppel and brother Tom +doing magistrates’ business at Litcham. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14.] + +Party breaking up. Fred Fitzroy dropping me at friend Rev. C. D. +Brereton’s. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +Took leave of Brereton. Drive of eleven miles to Creake. Bitter cold. +Henry Coke arrived from Holkham. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +To Bobby Hammond’s, now a rich banker; change from a mid’s berth. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Fred Keppel drove me to brother Edward’s. + +[Sidenote: Quidenham Parsonage, Jan. 23.] + +Looked over the Quidenham Stud paddocks. Some old brood-mares and four +yearlings. A colt, “Borneo,” promising looking. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +Fred Keppel taking me back to Lexham, sent things to Anthony Hammond’s +at Westacre. + +Followed in afternoon. Charming place as well as host. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +Anthony, Bob Hammond, Henry Coke, and others came to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Henry Coke and I took departure from Westacre, posting to Brandon, by +rail to Cambridge. Henry having left the Navy had lodgings there: a +quiet dinner with him. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +To London; with Stephensons in Arlington Street. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Joined wife at Leamington. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 8.] + +To London. Father recovering from illness. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Letter from Admiralty requesting me to sit on a Commission to report +on Naval Uniforms--Chairman, Rear-Admiral Bowles, C.B. Committee: +Rear-Admiral Sir F. Collier, C.B.; Captains A. Fanshawe, C.B.; J. +Shepherd; Hon. F. Pelham; A. Milne; Lord Clarence Paget; and W. F. +Martin. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 19.] + +Poor Thistlewayte quite blind. + +[Sidenote: Droxford, Feb. 20.] + +Rode to Collier’s new house at Wickham. Nothing more neat, complete, +and comfortable. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Wife and I on a visit to Southwick. George Delmé came to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +Walked from Southwick to Droxford, and afterwards to Rookesbury. +Thistlewayte sending wife there in carriage. Good William Garnier +insisted on our all staying at Rookesbury. + +[Sidenote: Rookesbury, Mar. 2.] + +William Garnier mounting me, we rode to the Dean’s at Winchester. +Sister Caroline out. Called on Walter Longs on our way back. Collier +and Campbells to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +On Garnier’s hack to see Hambledon Meet. Many friends, but a bad +scenting day. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Mar. 6.] + +In break, picking up Wickham’s Admiral, Collier, on the way. Lunched +with the Hyde Parkers. _Sphynx_ in harbour after six weeks on rocks at +back of Isle of Wight. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +By coach to stay with Sivewrights, Symington. + +Years since Edward Sivewright and I met. At Symington, canvassed for +brother George. + +[Sidenote: Droxford, Mar. 11.] + +Busy with accounts. How much I want money, and have wanted, for some +time. Still here we are jogging on. One-half the world never knows how +the other half lives! + +Visit to Cousin Delmé’s at Cams. + +[Sidenote: Cams, Mar. 13.] + +Admiral Sir William Gage came to Cams. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +By rail to Winchester, leaving wife at the Deanery. George Delmé and I +went to see sundry blood-stock at Dilly’s and Stockbridge. Expensive +playthings! “Venison” a fine horse. + +[Sidenote: Cams, Mar. 16.] + +In Delmé’s drag to meet the Hampshire Hounds at Rockwood, Colonel +Greenwood’s. Delmé sending a hack for me. Martin Haworth master. No +finer day, though, to see hounds and horns. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 19.] + +Delmé sending me a mount with the Hambleton. Good gallop over the +Downs. Lost near Ditcham. + +[Sidenote: Winchester, Mar. 24.] + +_Fast Day_--Appointed to be kept by the Government on account of the +distressing famine in Ireland and Scotland. Properly and strictly +observed (to all appearance) throughout the country. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Rode pony over to Campbell Wyndham’s at Exton. Accompanied Mrs. Wyndham +to see Hants Steeplechase. Sport bad, company good, day fine. Good +dinner and party at Wyndham’s; slept there. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 31.] + +Rev. Mr. M‘Dougal volunteered for Borneo. Good man. + +[Sidenote: April 2.] + +_Good Friday._--Salt fish and thirst! + +[Sidenote: April 14.] + +[Sidenote: May 20.] + +Letter from Harry Stephenson announcing birth of the finest boy +in creation. Saw in the papers death of the Earl of Bessborough, +Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland--a national loss. + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +By rail to London. Friends Crawfurd Kerrs arrived from China. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Sir Charles Napier going to apply for me as his Flag Captain! + +[Sidenote: May 26.] + +This day my old friend Jonas Coaker had his little boy christened +Keppel Coaker. + +[Sidenote: May 27.] + +Hawley’s mare “Miami” won the Oaks, ridden by Sim Templeman. Dined +with the First Lord of the Admiralty, Lord Auckland. Full dress, to +commemorate Her Majesty’s birthday. + +[Sidenote: May 28.] + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +Mail from India. James Brooke coming home by July mail. Dinner with +Sir William Eden, meeting Admiral Parry’s daughter and Charlie Eden. +Admiral taken ill. + +[Sidenote: Blackheath, June 2.] + +Took up our quarters in the Blackheath house. Greenwich Park, and +country round, looking perfection. + +[Sidenote: London, June 4.] + +Dined with Lady Wilmot Horton, meeting Bromleys, Commander Lord Byron, +and others. + +[Sidenote: June 5.] + +Dined with Charlie Eden to meet Admiral Hyde Parker. + +[Sidenote: June 8.] + +First Lord’s levée. As far off employment as ever. + +[Sidenote: Blackheath, June 11.] + +Took the Dalyell ladies to see Review of Horse Artillery. Grand Duke +Constantine. Duke of Wellington in Russian uniform. I dined with +Colonel Parker to meet his brother the Admiral. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +Poor Sir Robert Stopford very ill; sad loss to Greenwich and service. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +Review in Hyde Park. Seen from Mr. Thistlewayte’s house in Connaught +Place. + +Dinner to Lord Auckland at Thatched House; well attended. Lift back to +Greenwich with Sir Watkin Pell. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +By steamer, and to Wimbledon by rail to see Ingestre and family. Lady +Sarah as handsome as ever. The little Susan a woman; twelve years since +we met. Missed train. Shake-down at Ingestre’s! + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +By rail with Ingestre to London. News from China: Bogue Forts taken, +Canton threatened. + +With brother George to dine with aged Mrs. Clavering, wonderful, dear +old lady. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Called on James Brooke’s sister, Mrs. Savage--pretty, nice person; +strong resemblance to him. Got tickets for Astley’s. It is not what it +used to be. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +At two this morning that fine old Admiral and dignified old gentleman, +Sir Robert Stopford, departed this life! + +[Sidenote: June 30.] + +Bayley having lent me his yacht _Nymph_, took the Dalyell girls and +Augustus Stephenson a sail down the river to Gravesend and back. + +[Sidenote: July 1.] + +Dined Thatched House Club. Walpole in chair. Jolly party. + +[Sidenote: July 2.] + +Attended in full uniform the funeral of Sir Robert Stopford; the whole +ceremony conducted in a manner worthy of so great and good a man. + +Dined in South Street with Sir James Kempt; met Colonel Brereton and +others. + +[Sidenote: Southampton, July 8.] + +Visited Admiral Sir Charles Bullen, who gave me a model of _Dido_. +He had been Captain-Superintendent of Pembroke Dockyard when she was +building. + +By rail to Gosport. Dined with the Hyde Parkers. Had a chat with Lord +Saltoun at George Hotel. + +[Sidenote: July 14.] + +By steamer to Ryde, and four-horse coach to Dudley Pelham at St. +Lawrence. + +[Sidenote: St. Lawrence, July 15.] + +Rode Pelham’s pony; re-visited Apple-de-Combe. + +[Sidenote: July 26.] + +Went to Bill Crosbie’s, Emsworth; a jolly party. Goodwood with Bill’s +party, on Delmé’s drag. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +Letter from brother George requesting my presence at Lymington. When I +got to Portsmouth, found this day fixed for the election; Ergo, no use +my going, so rejoined the party for Goodwood. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Party going to the ball at Chichester; returned with wife to Portsmouth +on a visit to old friends, the Cashers at Southsea. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +Bill Crosbie and two handsome Miss Leithbridges coming over. Made a +party to bazaar at Lord Down’s, Binstead. The Leithbridges dined with +us. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +By steam to Portsmouth. _Cambrian_ given to Plumridge. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +In Lord Hardwicke’s yacht to his place Sydney Lodge, on the banks of +Southampton Water. Nice breeze. Good dinner. Lady Hardwicke singing +delightfully. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 7.] + +Rainy, stormy morning; strong breeze. Returned in the _Susan_. She was +a yawl-rigged, half-decked, 30-ton boat which his Lordship steered +himself. + +[Sidenote: Ryde, Aug. 8.] + +Invited by Sir Augustus Clifford to meet Lord Auckland at dinner. +Borneo affairs to be brought under immediate consideration. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +A couple of days at Dudley Pelham’s lovely place at St. Lawrence. Met +Love, brother officer, who danced hornpipe nearly as well as T. P. +Cooke. + +[Sidenote: London, Aug. 14.] + +Met Admiral Shireff. Offer of his Flag-Captain in case of his getting +_Pacific_; accepted same on conditions. + +[Sidenote: Cowes, Aug. 24.] + +A sail in the _Pearl_ and dined afterwards with Lord Anglesey at Cowes +Castle. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +By steamer to Southampton. Embarked in Chamberlayne’s _Arrow_, sailed +through Needles passage for Plymouth. Mr. Weld on board--charming old +boy. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +Got into Plymouth. Regatta in full force. Hundreds of people on the +Hoe. Weather fine. Went to the Regatta Ball. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 28.] + +_Arrow_ sailing for a cup, time race, which she lost by six seconds +only, coming in first. Sailed while at dinner for Cowes. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +Lucky in our fine weather. Came close round the Bill of Portland +_within the race_. Shortened sail for dinner, yacht fashion. Arrived at +Cowes 10 P.M. + +Joining wife at the Vines, Puckaster. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 31.] + +Steam to Portsmouth. Rail to Farnham. Fly to kind good friends at +Rookesbury. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 1.] + +William Gamier, Frank Collier, and Walpole to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Rookesbury, Sept. 3.] + +That donkey, “the Honest Bishop” of Bond Street, not having sent my +gun, spoiled a good day’s shooting, having only a tool with the lock of +the right barrel broken. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 6.] + +Garnier kindly giving permission for me to invite one of the Cashers to +shoot, William came. Ten brace between us. Casher to dinner and sleep. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 7.] + +Casher to have another day’s shooting. Bagged twenty-two brace. No +house in England so enjoyable as this Rookesbury; no people so kind and +generous. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +Drizzly rain. Took leave of our kind friends at Rookesbury. At +Southwick. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +Plenty of birds. Lady Farnham staying here. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Letter from Admiral Dundas requiring me to decide between +Flag-Captaining to Sir Charles Napier and a sixth-rate to India. + +To Admiralty. Difficult point to decide between inclination and economy. + +[Sidenote: London, Sept. 23.] + +Breakfasted with Admiral Dundas; decided on India. Wrote letter of +thanks to Lord Auckland. + +Offered appointment as First Lieutenant to Bowyear. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +By rail with wife to Quidenham. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 9.] + +Father and Lady Albemarle off to Newmarket. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 11.] + +Adieu to Quidenham--for how long? Wife to Blackheath. Found Brooke at +Mivart’s Hotel. United Service Club giving him a dinner, which was +crowded. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 12.] + +Business at Admiralty. To Greenwich. Dined with Sir James Gordon to +meet Brooke. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 13.] + +Met Brooke at Lord John Russell’s office, Downing Street. My old +friend, Charles Gore, his Private Secretary. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Breakfasted with Brooke at Mivart’s. Meeting of Borneo Mission. £3000 +subscribed. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +Dined with Lord Auckland to meet Brooke: Lord and Lady Grey, Lord and +Lady Palmerston, Lord and Lady Clanricade and pretty daughter, Lords +Lansdowne and Morpeth, and Dr. Hooker. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +Accompanied Brooke to Frank Grant’s, who was painting his portrait, +indeed a striking likeness. Grant the first artist in the country. + +[Sidenote: London, Oct. 21.] + +Anniversary of Trafalgar. Dined at Club of 1765. Some fine old “Salts” +present. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 22.] + +With Brooke to Admiralty. He invited to Windsor Castle. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +To Greenwich School. Inspected some nice-looking lads for _Mæander_. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +Brooke received the Freedom of the City of London, and made a speech. + +[Sidenote: London, Oct. 30.] + +Admiral Dundas informed me that I should commission _Mæander_ at once. + +As I was anxious to be employed, I had tried hard for the _Active_, one +of Symonds’ beautiful ships he wished me to have. However, that lovely +frigate was never commissioned. To Portsmouth. Ordered outfit. Arranged +rendezvous on the Hard. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 1.] + +My commission appointing me to the command of the _Mæander_ frigate, +44, at Chatham, made out. Allowed to name such officers as I wished. + + First Lieutenant--George Leger Bowyear. + Second Lieutenant--Charles B. Read. + Third Lieutenant--Henry W. Comber. + Third Lieutenant--R. Brice Oldfield. + Master--Francis H. May. + Marines--First Lieutenant--Rodney V. Allen. + Paymaster--George Simmonds. + Surgeon--John Clarke. + Assistant-Surgeon--William Smith. + Second Master--William Turton. + +Dined with the Lord Mayor to meet Brooke. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +Business at Admiralty. Other appointments made. Every vacancy filled up. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 6.] + +To breakfast with Brooke. By Great Western to Chippenham, on visit to +Lord Lansdowne at Bowood. Large party. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 7.] + +_Sunday._--A day for a short walk. Church in private chapel; beautiful +organ and music. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 8.] + +Many of the party leaving. In afternoon Brooke and I a ride with Lords +Lansdowne and Morley. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 9.] + +Back to London with Brooke. + +[Sidenote: Sheerness, Nov. 11.] + +With young Spalding to Sheerness. Breakfasted with +Captain-Superintendent. Took Spalding on Board _Ocean_ to be examined. +Made my bow and presented Commission to Admiral. + +Returned to Chatham. First Lieutenant Bowyear, Read, and Spalding to +dinner. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +Some good men joining. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 18.] + +Letter from brother George urging me to meet a party at dinner. Up in +time to a family feed; very good though. Put up at Mivart’s. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 19.] + +Back to Chatham in time to muster Ship’s Company. Charlie Graham also +down to sign papers; dined together. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 20.] + +Admiralty complying with most of my requests, to the astonishment of +dockyard. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +Attended a meeting of the Borneo Mission at Hanover Square. Had to +second resolution and make a speech. More than 1000 present; chiefly +ladies--nervous work. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Frock-coats introduced into the service; good things and comfortable. + +[Sidenote: Chatham, Nov. 26.] + +As senior officer had to inspect men sent from Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Vice-Admiral Sir Durnford King sent steamer for me to be interviewed +at Sheerness relative to my refusing drafts from _Ocean_. Returned in +steamer. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +Heard of Admiral Shireff’s death. Good fellow. A week ago as hale and +healthy a man as any on the list. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +Reprimand from Admiralty for having refused the splendid men they sent! +_Mæander_ entering better hourly. + +Dined with Royal Marines. Cheery mess. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +Dined with Stephenson at Beef Steak Club. + +Kind Rajah gave wife handsome bracelets of Borneo gold. + +[Sidenote: Sheerness, Dec. 7.] + +Snug and comfortable quarters on board _Hussar_, hulk. + +Ship removed from dock to alongside hulk. + +[Sidenote: Chatham, Dec. 10.] + +Dined with Royal Marines’ Barracks mess with Colonel Whylock. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Met two young Egertons at Nine Elms Station. Accompanied them to +shoot at Lord Ellesmere’s near Weybridge. Prettiest grounds and wild +shooting. Back by return ticket. + +Had a capital dinner at Hastie’s--Stephenson, Brooke and others. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 18.] + +We left London for Woburn Abbey. Harvey and Brooke with us. A large +house; nice and agreeable party. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Brooke and I put four horses to a stage coach, and with wife, and +servants, posted across country to Cambridge, by rail to Dereham, coach +to Wells, and in Leicester’s carriage to Holkham, making a tedious +journey of fifteen hours. Late for dinner. + +[Sidenote: Holkham, Dec. 21.] + +Some nice people here: Edward Digby, Archie MacDonald, Porter, 9th +Lancers, Henry Coke, and others. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 22.] + +A good day’s shooting, my bag 87 head. + +Margaret Coke drove me over to Creake. Decided on taking Tom’s little +fellow Leicester with me. + +Servants’ ball in evening. Great fun. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +Shot the Wareham side: not so much game as I have seen. I killed 57 +head. Brooke not shooting, but making himself particularly agreeable. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 24.] + +To shoot fourteen miles off. Wet, dirty day. Leicester not well enough +to dine downstairs; the youngsters got rather by the head and a little +noisy. + +[Sidenote: Christmas Day, Dec. 25.] + +To Lexham, Brooke, wife and I, Fred Keppel and his brother Edward +receiving us. Nice, quiet, and comfortable house and party. + +[Sidenote: Lexham to Hockham, Dec. 27.] + +Put posters to Fred Keppel’s carriage, sending servants and luggage by +fly to Hockham. Found large party to meet the Rajah. + +[Sidenote: Hockham, Dec. 28.] + +Brooke returned in Fred Keppel’s carriage to Lexham. Breretons, Dover, +C. Partridge, Reynardson, and self to shoot. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 29.] + +Snow. Regular winter’s day. + +[Sidenote: Quidenham, Dec. 30.] + +Partridge, sending us to Quidenham; Brooke arriving in time for dinner. +Kindly welcomed by all. + +George and his son Willie, Edward and Maria, Eustace Hill, Sir Robert +Adair, Miss Hunloke and selves, a party of twelve. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +Brooke took his departure for Norwich to visit the Bishop. Family +party to dinner. My dear father in great force. Knowing his dislike to +saying good-bye, took advantage of his going out of the room to walk +off to bed. I trust I may find him as well, should I live to return. +He is in his seventy-sixth year, and I am going to India on peculiar +service. Four years is a long time to look forward to. Our meeting +again doubtful! + +The next three or four years are likely to be the most eventful of my +life. + + +_Postscript to 1847_ + +I cannot close my diary this year without mention of the sore trouble +in which my friend Brooke was involved. The commencement, indeed, of +the persecution from which he emerged stainless, but at the cost of +mental anxiety which ultimately caused his death. + +As early as 1843, Brooke thought he had reason to suspect the good +faith and honour of his London agent, Mr. Henry Wise of Austin Friars. + +In his confidential letters to his friend, Jack Templer, he had +referred to his growing uneasiness at Wise’s management of his affairs. + +Letters passed upon the subject: Wise’s replies seldom being +satisfactory. In spite of facts, Brooke did not break off relations +with him. + +Brooke had placed his “Journal” at my disposal, and Templer brought a +mass of private letters from Brooke relating to his policy and doings +in Sarawak. + +Not deeming myself competent to undertake the construction of the +_Dido_ book, I placed these materials, as well as my diaries, in the +hands of Mr. Jerdan, editor of the _Court Journal_, and a former +acquaintance. + +We conferred continually, as the record already written has shown, and +worked amicably enough together. + +Jerdan improperly allowed Wise access to these letters, as well +as Brooke’s “Journal,” in spite of their containing references of +a disparaging nature about Wise. In this way the seeds of future +mischief were sown. Wise saw that Brooke suspected him, and under legal +compulsion only did he return the letters to Templer. However, he had +made copies and used them as he willed. + +Then came the formation of the Eastern Archipelago Company (without +sanction from Brooke), which had at bottom a scheme to buy out Brooke’s +rights in Sarawak and work the country from one point only--that of +making money. + +Brooke refused to give up the trust reposed in him by the Rajah and +people of Sarawak, came home later on, brought a lawsuit against the +Directors of the Eastern Archipelago Company, and won it. + +The Directors were convicted of fraud in putting a false certificate on +the charter as to the amount of capital subscribed. It was, in fact, +a bogus prospectus. Mr. Wise had got £18,000 out of it, and much more +besides. + +Finding a ready ear in Mr. David Hume, better known in the Navy as the +“Revenue Cutter,” and who loved a grievance, Wise tried to turn the +tables on Brooke once more, alleging his “dreadful treatment” of the +Dyaks as an excuse. + +However, “this cock would not fight.” Brooke was the lion of the hour +in 1847, and was appointed Governor of Labuan. + +I have always held that ropes were pulled by Wise’s familiars and +himself to get Brooke, Napier, myself, and other truthful witnesses out +of England in order to further their plans in floating this fraudulent +company. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII + +THE _MÆANDER_ + + +[Sidenote: 1848. Jan. 1.] + +Adieu for a while to Quidenham. Farewell, dear father. + +By rail to London. Business at Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 4.] + +Called with Brooke on Lord Ellesmere. Dined with Lord Auckland: +agreeable company. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Early boat to Gravesend and Chatham. Ship beginning to look well. + +[Illustration: Mæander _Fitting_.] + +[Sidenote: Jan. 6.] + +Splendid boats; nearly finished. _Hydra_, friend Grey Skipwith sailing +for Rio in command; good fellow as well as seaman. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7.] + +Order from Admiral, to move to Sheerness. + +Private letters from Admiralty to remain where we are! Cabins building +for passengers. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +Bent sails. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +At 8.30 taken in tow by the _Charon_ steamer. Master attendant no nerve +to move ship under canvas! + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +A party of friends and relations from London: a jovial party. Gave them +the best I could, Admiral kindly lending his steam tender to take many +of them back as far as Chatham. + +[Sidenote: Sheerness, Jan. 19.] + +Attempt to get out, but pilot not willing. Jolly party still on board. + +My brothers remaining; also old Rouse, of Naval College 1822, and now +from Greenwich school, as well as other friends. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +Slipped moorings at 11.30, and with the assistance of steam got as far +as Little Nore. Brother George obliged to leave with his boy. Saluted +Admiral, Sir Edward Durnford King. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +Stephenson and his boys, Augustus and Sussex, not able to remain longer. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Early morning, the Launch paddled alongside with her small engine +puffing away. Admiral had ship inspected by Captain Price, as much to +his satisfaction as to mine. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +Steamer alongside and fore and aft sails set--our nervous pilot got +under way--nice breeze; made sail over the flats and cast off steamer, +in which old friend Rouse went. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24.] + +Brothers Tom and Edward, as well as Harvey, delighted with their sail. +Nine, anchored at Spithead; breeze too fresh for wife to land in boat. +Admiral kindly sent his tender. Dined with Admiral, Sir Charles Ogle. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +To London by express train. Business at Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +Returned to Portsmouth. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +At two o’clock Board of Admiralty, consisting of Lord Auckland, Lord +John Hay, Milne, Eden, Ward, and Berkeley, with Lady Ellesmere and two +charming daughters, came on board. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 1.] + +Leave-takings over, weighed from Spithead. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 2.] + +Party on board--Sir James Brooke, Mr. and Mrs. W. Napier, daughter and +baby; Mr. Hugh Low, Mr. Spencer St. John, Mr. Scott, Captain Hoskins, +Mr. Gwynne, my guest; Captain Peyton, and Lieutenant Müller, the latter +a Norwegian naval officer. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Breeze freshening from westward. Came to in Plymouth Sound at 10 P.M. +with watch. + +[Sidenote: Plymouth, Feb. 4.] + +Landed with Lieutenant Oldfield. Met his father, who invited us to +drive on the morrow. Visited George Goldsmith, now Flag Captain to Lord +Dundonald on board _Wellesley_. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +8 A.M.--Met on landing by Lieutenant Oldfield, whose mother had been +found dead in her bed! + +Attended with George Goldsmith a lecture on electricity by Captain +Sir W. Harris--lightning conductors. Dined with Lady Hillyar, a good, +dear old lady. She entertained Captains after the battle of Trafalgar, +Gibraltar! + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +Wind veering to N.W.; weighed from Sound. Stood out by Eastern Passage. + +[Illustration: Mæander _leaving Plymouth_.] + +[Sidenote: Feb. 7.] + +Wind back to W.S.W., accompanied by a smash of crockery. Appearance of +worse weather. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Took shelter in Cork Harbour. Brooke and I dined with Admiral Mackay. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +Took Mrs. and Miss Napier, and my young nephew, Leicester Keppel, to +Cork. Sent valentines to Bijou Dalyell, Collier, and Georgie Johnson. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 15.] + +Wind veering round to northward; took leave of Admiral, and borrowed +his latest newspapers. At 11 A.M. under weigh and stood out of Cork +Harbour. Adieu to Europe. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 16.] + +Sea getting up; breeze freshening into a gale; ship plunging and +rolling. Little Leicester announced that he was going to die. Smash +among chairs and what was left of crockery. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 17.] + +At daylight Napier’s little boy, James Brooke, aged five months, was +found dead in its bed. Sad blow to the parents. Supposed to have gone +off in a fit. Poor Mrs. Napier--poor Napier! Nurse in hysterics. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Wind dead on end. Napier wretched. Leaden coffin made for the small +thing; in evening screwed it down in a mahogany one, and covered over +with a Union Jack, to be landed at Madeira. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Divine service performed in cabin. Gunroom table too crowded for my +party to dine there. I had ever looked forward to the command of a +frigate as the height of my ambition. I copy the following from Sir +Spenser St. John’s book, he having been one of my passengers:-- + + There is no greater error in the world than turning vessels + of war into passenger ships, particularly when ladies are + concerned. + + Every spot is occupied beforehand, so that the unfortunate + passengers soon discover that they are _de trop_, and the + comfort of the officers and discipline of the ship suffer from + having a miscellaneous crowd of idlers. + + Though every desire was shown by captain and officers to render + passengers comfortable, it had but poor success! Mr. Scott, + Mr. Hoskins, and myself were stuffed into one small cabin with + only two beds; I had to resign myself to swinging in a hammock. + +The main-deck guns, as far forward as the mainmast, were dismounted; +the ports fitted in as windows, and the deck divided into cabins--the +ship having the appearance of one of Mr. Green’s fine Indiamen, without +the accommodation. + +My cabin was called the “saloon,” my servants “waiters,” and when the +ship gave an extra plunge, sundry “brandies and sodas” were called for. + +[Sidenote: Madeira, Feb. 23.] + +Anchored in Funchal Roads at daylight. Kindly received by Consul +Stoddard, an old friend, celebrated for his hospitality. Youngsters on +shore with different friends. Leicester staying with the Scott Surtees. + +Brooke and I had the honour of dining with Her Majesty the Queen +Dowager. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 24.] + +Duke of Saxe-Weimar, Princes Edward and Herman, Lord Northland, Major +de Winton, Consul Stoddard, and a party came to visit and lunch on +board. + +Stoddard invited us to meet the two Princes and a party at dinner, and +he also got up an expedition to see the _Corral_. A dance given by the +officers was spoilt by dirty weather. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Band landed to perform at a picnic in Mr. Stoddard’s garden. + +Brooke and I took our farewell dinner with Her Majesty, who, very +prettily, drank health and happiness to wife and self, it being the +anniversary of our wedding day, and also drank success to Brooke. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 26.] + +12.20 A.M.--Weighed from Funchal Roads; weather cold for the latitude. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 27.] + +[Sidenote: Feb. 28.] + +Divine service performed in my cabin; it being still too cold for +the quarter-deck, although getting warmer. Flying-fish and dolphins, +as well as other indications of the tropics. Weather being fine, the +youngsters commenced school in my fore-cabin. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +Three successive good runs, 235, 238, and 234. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 9.] + +In the evening the ship was hailed by Neptune, who sent his messenger +over the bows in a blaze of light; in witnessing the function the +passengers got wet. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Neptune came on board and performed the usual foolery, 160 men +underwent the operation of shaving amid much merriment and fun. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +Westley Richards, the well-known gun maker, had an agent, by the name +of Bishop; a character, he had visiting cards on which he styled +himself “The Bishop of Bond Street.” He was a dog-fancier, and restored +many a lady’s lost dogs. + +[Illustration: “_The Bishop._”] + +When a regiment of Guards marched through Bond Street, I often saw “the +Bishop” stand in front of his shop in his white apron, presenting arms +with a double-barrelled gun. + +He presented me with a thoroughbred Scotch terrier; of course the dog +could have no other name than _Bishop_. It is difficult to take a +thoroughbred across the Equator. Sailors are fond of animals, dogs in +particular. + +After leaving Madeira, one forenoon _Bishop_ was pronounced to be mad, +foaming at the mouth, and snapping at everything, there was no mistake. + +I was in the fore-cabin, through which he rushed; the youngsters at +school, their legs dangling; but none were bitten. On his journey +forward he encountered the sailmaker repairing a main-split topsail. +One blow with a huge marling spike finished the poor dog. + +I wondered afterwards what effect he must have had on a shark’s +stomach. It was a mercy no one was bitten in the school cabin. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Made the island of Fernando Noronha. + +This night a fine young A.B., George Robinson, in a fit of delirium +got out of his hammock and jumped through a main-deck port, saying, +“Good-bye, shipmates,” as he went. Boats were down on the instant, but +to no purpose! + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Preparing for painting cabin guns. Dined on deck, abaft mizen mast, +screened in--much discomfort, but how fond people are of a change. Boat +from an American whaler came alongside about sunset wanting _news_ only! + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +Close off the Port of Rio at daylight; had to wait the sea breeze. Glad +to land passengers for a while. Found my old friend Tennyson d’Eyncourt +in the _Comus_. + +William Partridge, unfortunately invalided from _Grecian_, had gone +home in the Packet. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Invalided Read. Poor fellow! Sorry to lose him, but no command of +himself. With Brooke to call on our Minister, Lord Howden. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 26.] + +Napier tired of shore; came on board with belongings; a bore just now. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Determined, with my cargo, on not calling at Simon’s Bay. Provisioned +accordingly. D’Eyncourt dined with me: his ship, the _Comus_, having +committed the crime of getting on shore! it was necessary to heel her +over in the River Plate. In doing this she lost her balance and found +the bottom, this time in soft mud. + +I believe the Plate takes its name from Plata (silver), but any water +more like pea-soup in colour I never was in. (No time to apply for +details to Admiral of the Fleet, Sir J. E. Commerell, G.C.B., V.C., +A.D.C., who was midshipman on board _Firebrand_ at this time, and just +going home for his examination as mate.) + +However, with a fine crew and help of Captain Hope of _Firebrand_, +they got the _Comus_ up, minus a keel, in which state my friend +d’Eyncourt was taking her home with a good freight on board. There was +a suspicious-looking clipper lying off the mouth of the harbour at the +time, but he thought “a bird in the hand,” etc. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +Got under way at daylight, and ran out with the land breeze. Breeze +still holding, enabling us to make southing. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +My passenger friend Peyton, a very good fellow. + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +[Sidenote: April 10.] + +Dirty weather. Gig’s crew baling water out of fore-cabin. One of my +cows dead, the other not much. + +[Sidenote: April 19.] + +In the forenoon made Prince Edward’s Island in 46° 23´ S. Not often +made by ships going to India. Best and shortest route though! + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +A slashing breeze. Twelve knots logged for eight successive hours. By +log 274 miles, to which may be added 25--easterly set, making 299 miles. + +[Sidenote: April 26.] + +Once more within the limits of the East Indian Station (_Batta_), +having crossed the 75° of longitude; good run of 270 miles by log. + +[Sidenote: April 27.] + +While at breakfast John Wallis, a fine young fellow, fell overboard +from the main topsail yard-arm. + +[Illustration: Mæander _hove to_.] + +In lowering boats Comber fell out of the cutter: recovered much +exhausted, but poor Wallis had sunk to rise no more alive, the sea had +closed over him. He was only twenty-four, and Second Captain of the +Top: a favourite with the ship’s company, who expressed a wish to send +his mother, whom he supported, a day’s pay. + +Lots of albatross and other sea-birds about; some endeavoured to flap +Comber on the head with their powerful wings while he was in the water; +much exhausted, but swam manfully. + +[Illustration: _Comber in Danger._] + +[Sidenote: May 2.] + +Occasional heavy squalls, in one of which the chain bowsprit shroud +carried away the bowsprit badly sprung; wind driving aft, enabling us +to repair damages without altering course. + +Spring in bowsprit was just outside the knight-heads and nearly +through. Got spare boat’s masts out as supporters on each side; secure +but not handsome, it enabled us to carry the jib with care. + +[Sidenote: May 5.] + +Miss Napier having this day attained her nineteenth year, champagne and +a dance in the fore-cabin. Think there is something in the wind between +her and Low! + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +On referring to my _Dido_ log, curious how near together the running of +the two ships over a space of seven thousand miles: never having been a +hundred ahead of one another. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Made Christmas Island at 3 A.M. A few days over six years since I did +so in _Dido_. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, May 14.] + +Within the Straits of Sunda: squally weather. Master and self piloting +ship past the numerous shoals: anchored off Singapore. Mail in. + +[Sidenote: 1848.] + +Stunning news of Revolution in France; Louis Philippe an exile in +England; a Republic proclaimed, and other extraordinary facts. + +Heard of Admiral Inglefield’s death at Bombay from wearing cocked +hat in the sun. _Cambrian_ here with Plumridge, my old _Magicienne_ +Captain, flying First-Class Commodore’s broad pennant! + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +Brooke was received with all the honours due to a Governor, and on the +following day preparations commenced for establishing the new colony of +Labuan. + +An office was opened in Singapore, and contracts received for the +frameworks of temporary residences to be erected for the Government +functionaries. + +Singapore has now become a rich and extensive town. By no act of +his life did Sir Stamford Raffles manifest greater discernment and +foresight than by founding this settlement; steam then not dreamed +of. It has become the emporium of all the trading communities of the +Eastern Archipelago, as well as of that of extensive trade carried on +by all nations with China and India. Here twice a month now come the +steam-vessels of the Dutch from Batavia, of Spain from Manila, and our +own from China, to meet the European mail. + +Colonel Butterworth, the present Governor, has had roads opened in all +parts of the island, and thrown substantial bridges across its streams. +Met Captain M‘Quhae of the _Dædelus_, lunched with him. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +The Governor gave a ball and supper to commemorate Her Majesty’s +birthday. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +Brooke, Read, Napier, and some others dined with old M‘Quhae, on board +the _Dædelus_, before the ball. M‘Quhae got a little by the head, +ships and forts having saluted at noon. Took possession of Navy House, +a nice building, once poor Whitehead’s. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +_Dædelus_ sailed, and I assumed command of the Straits Station. Society +much enlarged: impossible to get through the necessary calls in one +day. Band on shore in the evenings for the amusement of our friends. +Peyton and I dined with Tom Church, our Resident Councillor. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +In pulling about in my gig among the numerous prettily wooded islands +on the westward entrance to the Singapore river, was astonished to find +deep water close to the shore, with a safe passage through for ships +larger than the _Mæander_. + +Now that steam is likely to come into use, this ready-made harbour as a +depot for coal would be invaluable. + +I had the position surveyed, and sent it, with my report, to the Board +of Admiralty; as it was, the forge was landed, boats repaired, and +artificers employed under commodious sheds, all under the eyes of the +officers on board. + +[Illustration: _New Harbour, Singapore._] + +New Harbour has another advantage over Singapore Roads. In the latter +a ship’s bottom becomes more foul than in any known anchorage in +these seas; perhaps from the near proximity to the bottom. This is +not the case in New Harbour, through which there is always a tide +running, while a current of air passing between the islands keeps it +comparatively cool. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Despatched _Phlegethon_ with the pioneers of the new settlement at +Labuan, also to relieve the _Auckland_. + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +_Mariner_, 16, arrived from the Cape, having made a long voyage going +the old track, Commander Mathieson taking up his quarters with me. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +Officers of 21st dined “Mæanders,” inviting the Napiers to meet them. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, June 23.] + +A tiger brought in by some Malays was given me by the Governor. Clarke +kindly skinned the beast. The flesh is in great demand by natives, who +fancy that eating it makes them strong and brave. + +The Malays stated, when they found the monster in a hole which had been +dug on purpose, they threw quicklime in his eyes, and the unfortunate +beast, while suffering intense pain, drowned himself in some water at +the bottom of the pit, though not more than a foot in depth. + +The annual loss of human life from tigers, chiefly among the Chinese +settlers, is fearful--averaging one per diem. Great exertions are +still being made for the destruction of them, which is effected by +pitfalls--cages baited with dog, goat, monkey, or other restless +animal, also by sundry cunning contrivances, but the strait between +Johore and Singapore is but a short swim. + +One of the recent victims was the son of the head man at Passir Pâdi, +who, having gone into the jungle behind his father’s house to cut wood, +was attacked by a tiger. The father, hearing screams, rushed just in +time to grasp his boy’s legs as the brute was dragging him. + +The father pulled and the tiger growled: it was only on other people +arriving that he quitted his prey; but the unfortunate lad was dead. + +There is a procession and much parade in bringing these tigers to the +Government offices for the reward. The tigers are made to look as +fierce as possible--propped up in a standing position by pieces of +bamboo, the mouth open, and tail on end. + +So great is the virtue of tiger flesh as a pick-me-up from fever that a +portion of my beast found its way to the sick-room of a friend in the +21st Madras Native Infantry. + +He was recovering from fever, and expressed surprise at the tough +meat in his curry, when his native servant explained his reason for +supplying it. + +Although out on various occasions, I was never fortunate enough to +fall in with a live tiger. With wild hog we had excellent sport, and +occasionally with deer. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Comber was made a Freemason of the lodge “Zetland in the East” (to +which I subsequently belonged). The members gave a farewell dinner to +Read, and invited me to meet him. Brooke was also a guest, and made an +excellent speech. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +_Auckland_ steamer in from Labuan; Sekarran pirates requiring a visit. +Captain Young of _Auckland_ took up his quarters with me. + +Drove with the Governor. Assembly ball in evening. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, June 28.] + +_Mæander_ hoisted Royal Standard and saluted on anniversary of the +Coronation. + +Our worthy old Purser, Simmons, departed this life while staying at +Whampoa’s country house. + +Whampoa was a fine specimen of his country, and had for many years been +contractor for fresh beef and naval stores. His generosity and honesty +had long made him a favourite. + +He had a country house, and of course a garden; also a circular pond in +which was a magnificent lotus, the _Victoriæ regia_, a present from the +Regent of Siam, who sent it to him by W. H. Read. The huge lily grew +splendidly, and bore leaves over eleven feet in diameter. + +When in blossom, Whampoa gave sumptuous entertainments to naval +officers: although our host, he would not eat with us, but sat in a +chair, slightly withdrawn from the table. + +At midnight, by the light of a full moon, we would visit this beautiful +flower, which faced the moon and moved with it until below the horizon. + +Amongst other pets he had an orang-outang, who preferred a bottle of +cognac to water. Dear old Whampoa’s eldest son was sent to England for +education, and while there became a Presbyterian. + +When I was at Singapore, years after, the young man returned, and had +the assurance to reappear before his father, fresh and well, but minus +a tail, and consequently was banished to Canton until it regrew and he +consented to worship the gods of his fathers. I now hear from the then +lad that he holds his father’s place. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +Attended the funeral of Simmons: no kinder or better man. + +[Sidenote: July 1.] + +Dined at a farewell dinner, given by the Frasers to the Reads. +_Albatross_, 12, arrived from Rio. Commander Farquhar, a good fellow, +took up his quarters with me. + +[Sidenote: July 3.] + +Mail steamer from China, bringing old friend Tottenham to take +Lieutenant Read’s vacancy. + +[Sidenote: July 4.] + +Large dinner at Government House to meet His Excellency Sir James +Brooke. + +[Sidenote: July 6.] + +Dined with Cooke and Hessey, 21st Regiment: a large party. Brooke came +to stay with me. + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +Took leave of the Governor and Mrs. Butterworth, who are leaving on the +morrow to visit the various settlements. + +[Sidenote: July 13.] + +Low gave a dinner at the hotel to self and friends. + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +On board _Mæander_; got under way to accompany Farquhar in _Albatross_, +after dining we parted company, she proceeding to Bombay. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +Landed at 4 A.M. with the youngsters to draw the seine; great fun. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +Weighed at 10 A.M., and ran into New Harbour. Rajah Brooke far from +well, our departure for Sarawak postponed. + +[Sidenote: July 23.] + +A snake five feet long found under one of the main-deck guns. How he +got there, they wondered! + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +Having a large party on board, got under way. Ran through the Eastern +Passage, round St. John’s, and returned by Western Entrance. _Auckland_ +steamer joined us in New Harbour. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +At 5 P.M., on the rising of the moon, fired a salute of eight guns to +please the Tumongong of Singapore, in celebration of the close of a +Mahommedan Fast. + +Ever since meeting him in Singapore in this year, my friend, James +Meldrum (Dato), has always kept me informed of all matters connected +with the doings of the Tumongong and his family. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 7.] + +Arrived mail steamer, on board which was my old friend, Sir Francis +Collier, as Commander-in-Chief. His birthday too! + +Hoisted and saluted his flag on board _Mæander_. Put him up in Read’s +house, now empty, Admiral’s flagship _Hastings_ to follow. The pleasure +of meeting, I flatter myself, was mutual. Drove out with him after +early dinner. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +Attended the Admiral in returning many calls. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 12.] + +Assisted at Miss Napier’s cheery wedding with Hugh Low: _déjeûner_ +given by Napier. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 14.] + +Occupied with Admiral, returning calls. He having ventured on the +favourite native fruit, Durian, will not forget the taste! + +[Sidenote: Egerton, Aug. 15.] + +Youngsters Karslake and Granville on shore preparatory to riding at the +races. I won the lottery. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +Last day of the races: better sport because fairer weights; good fun. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 21.] + +Great preparations for the instalment of James Brooke. Pity the +Governor is not here to perform the ceremony. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +Installation of Brooke with the order of K.C.B.: great business; +Napier, Her Majesty’s Representative, performing ceremony. Ball in +evening at Assembly Rooms. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 28.] + +Captain Young and officers of _Auckland_ gave a ball on board their +steaming frigate to the “Mæanders.” Very well done. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +Brooke returned from short visit to the country; sailed with him for +Labuan. Left dingey in Read’s garden for Admiral’s flag. Taylor of +Artillery with me. + +[Sidenote: At Sea. Aug. 30.] + +Again on the way to Sarawak. My friend Brooke under different +circumstances than when he went in _Dido_, 1843. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 31.] + +Rounded Tanjong Datu: entered within the limits of Brooke’s territory. + +[Illustration: _All Sail set._] + +[Sidenote: Sarawak, Sept. 2.] + +Being off the Santabong entrance sent second gig to Sarawak, with +letters from Rajah Brooke. Sunset, anchored in the Marotobas entrance +off Tanjong Po: some 12 miles from Kuching. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +The whole Sarawak population appeared to be afloat; all their largest +and finest boats had been put in requisition, and came with tom-toms +beating, streamers and colours flying to greet their Rajah. + +The first boat alongside contained the Bornean Princes: survivors of +the Brunei Massacre, relatives of poor Muda Hassim and the gallant +Budrudeen. + +Among them I recognised Pangeran Oman Alli, with a desperate wound in +the face and a frightful gash across the breast. + +While preparing for my guests in proper form, their Highnesses found +their way into my cabin, thereby evading all ceremony--where I will +leave them a few minutes while I insert here a short extract from Rajah +Brooke’s letter, dated on board _Phlegethon_, August 27, 1846. + + “Here I am with a few of the unhappy survivors of Muda Hassim’s + family. + + “I cannot pretend to detail all that has occurred, even in a + long letter, for events now, as when you were with me, progress + far faster than the decisions of ministers. + + “You will have heard of the brutal massacre of Muda Hassim, the + noble Budrudeen and the other brothers, except two. + + “They were taken by surprise, their houses fired, and during the + fire attacked by about fifty men. + + “Budrudeen, with two men, fought until wounded in the wrist and + cut over the head; he then blew himself and family up. + + “Muda Hassim escaped with several of his brothers to the + opposite side of the river, having lost his guns, powder, and + property, and then shot himself.” + +The pleasure on both sides at meeting was unfeigned, and +indeed--setting aside those social ties which must bind us all, more or +less, to the land of our birth--no one, witnessing the real pleasure +which the return of Sir James Brooke afforded these simple people, +could wonder at his preferring a country where such a reception +awaited him to colder if more civilised England. + +With the first of the flood, our Rajah embarked in the _Mæander’s_ +barge, and, quitting the ship under a salute and manned yards, attended +by his picturesque fleet he proceeded up the river, the war prahus +keeping up a firing of guns. + +After Brooke’s departure we stood out to sea, in search of the _Jolly +Bachelor_. When off Tanjong Datu we hoisted out our boom-boats, sending +them in all directions, standing ourselves towards St. Pierre. + +We afterwards met the tender off the entrance of the Sarawak River. +Marryat having mistaken his orders, went in by the Santobong entrance. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +Ran into the river. The largest ship that has ever been or likely to +come up as far as the Quop. Took up my quarters in Brooke’s house; +found him surrounded by a happy and contented people. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 11.] + +Preparing boats to accompany a small force to be sent by Rajah to the +Sadong: twenty-five boats in all. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +This afternoon tide brought the _Auckland_ steamer, with the July mail. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +Went up during a stormy night with young Brooke to join his uncle; +returned with the ebb. _Auckland_ having brought up our new steam +tender, built at Singapore and christened _Ranee_, took a small trip in +her. The engines, however, not of sufficient power. The steam launch +was the astonishment of the natives. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 17.] + +Boats returned from their expedition to Sadong, which was most +successful, but a sad accident had occurred. + +Two seamen and a marine were going on shore in a sampan, when the +seamen began rocking the canoe by way of lark, and upset the small +vessel, drowning the marine and one sailor. + +While the First Lieutenant was reporting to me the sad accident, a lad +fell overboard from the _Ranee_, and sank at once, probably seized by +an alligator not visible in muddy water. Very sad the number of deaths +in this ship: manned by as fine a crew as ever left England. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +Attended a grand feast given by the Datu Patinggi to the Rajah. Great +preparations had been made; flags and streamers flying, gongs sounding, +and salutes fired _ad libitum_ from the Datos Lelahs. + +We were received by the still pretty and graceful Inda, mother of +Fatima, the youthful heiress to Datu Gapoor’s property. Her beauty has +attained a celebrity throughout the Malayan Archipelago. + +The fair Fatima sprinkled us with coloured rice and gold dust, to which +was added a gentle shower of rose water. + +Verses from the Koran were chanted, the book being handed from one to +another, without regard to precedence or sanctity, the man with the +strongest lungs taking the longest pull at it. Then came feasting, with +undeniably good curries. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +Brooke held a Bichara. All the leading Chiefs, Datus, and Pangerans +attended. Every part of the audience-chamber was crowded: light and +air being almost excluded by the multitude of eager faces that filled +the openings which served for windows. We were in uniform and found it +oppressively hot. + +A new flag, which Brooke had brought from England, was unfurled--a +black and red cross on yellow ground--henceforth the national flag of +Sarawak. + +It was hoisted and saluted in due form; the _Mæander’s_ band, playing +lively airs, contributed to effect. + +The function over, pipes and cigars were introduced. We then threw +off our jackets, appearing in full Sarawak uniform, viz. shirts and +trousers only, and discussed with less ceremony and more comfort +the past, the present, and the future, finishing by dining with the +generous Hunting, who has become a landed proprietor. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Up early and down to the ship at the Quop and on to Tanjong Po. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +The Rajah having embarked with friends Treacher and Macdougal we sailed +for Labuan, and in four days landed him, although far from well. + +[Sidenote: Labuan.] + +But where was the Governor’s house? Where the Lieutenant-Governor? +Where was any one in authority to answer for the miserable huts we +found raised on the most unhealthy-looking spots on the island? + +The flat selected for the settlement is below the level and out of +sight of the sea, from which it is protected by a silted-up bank. It +cost the lives of many marines, and, later, some of my best able seamen. + +Landed Brooke under a salute. He and Napier were sworn in, and so +commenced the Government of Labuan. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 6.] + +We again received on board the Governor and his staff, His Excellency +purposing to pay a visit of ceremony to the Sultan of Brunei. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +Hoisted out the launch. Got caught in a squall, with her and steam +tender in tow. Before the sail could be got off the launch capsized, +with a brass gun for ballast; the steam tender did not take in so much +as a spoonful of water. + +However, we picked up the two boat-keepers, and the greater part of +the gear; came to and hoisted in the launch. While thus employed the +_Royalist_ hove in sight, having been dismantled in same squall. + +The bob-stays had given way, the bowsprit came in-board, and the three +masts, with royal yards across, lay amidships. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Leaving her at Labuan to refit, and a volunteer party of marines for +duty on shore, we re-landed His Excellency and sailed for Singapore. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 17.] + +A marine, William Southcote, another victim, departed this life. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Another this evening in Corporal Chalmers, also a steady, good man. +Have my fears for those poor fellows left at Labuan. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 31.] + +At daylight arrived at Singapore. My wife had previously arrived from +England, and was kindly received by the Governor and Mrs. Butterworth. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 2.] + +Admiral hoisted flag on board. I took Whampoa’s house in the country. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 11.] + +_Hastings_, 72--Captain, Francis Austen; Commander, Edward +Rice--arrived in the night. Shifted flag to her and saluted. Glad she +has arrived. She had been towed up by _Fury_, 6, from Java Head. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 16.] + +_Auckland_, arriving from Labuan with _Royalist_ in tow: decided that +_Mæander_ takes part of 21st Regiment on board for Labuan station. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Inquiry, with Captain Morgan, on board _Royalist_, as to steps taken by +Gordon when she was dismasted. Approval of steps taken. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +Company of Sepoy troops embarked on board _Mæander_. Weighed +immediately. + +[Illustration: Mæander _passing astern of_ Hastings.] + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Lucky in our breeze. Fell in with and passed close under the stern of +the _Hastings_ in tow of _Fury_, she having left thirty hours before +us. She would have done better under canvas. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +Arrived at Labuan. + +We found nearly the whole colony down with fever. More marines had +died; many seriously ill, and of the survivors the poor Governor in the +worst condition. He had been delirious, and lay apparently with but +little hope of recovery. Doctor Treacher, his medical attendant, was +nearly as bad. + +I saw that some steps should be immediately taken, and, making my way +to the sick bedside, I begged Sir James to prepare for removal, giving +him choice of _Auckland_ or _Mæander_. Brooke selected the latter. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 29.] + +Feeling better in the morning, he undertook to sign a few papers, but +fainted twice during the day. + +When I called just before sunset with the barge’s crew to convey him +on board, he was so exhausted that our surgeon declared it would be +dangerous to move him. + +With great reluctance on my part, he was left to imbibe for another +night the fœtid air of Labuan. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +Poor Hannan, our Chaplain, showing strong symptoms of delirium; +imagines the Queen to be coming to Labuan to put things to rights. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +Found Brooke not improving. I decided on saving his life if possible. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +In spite of remonstrances of the faculty, as well as those of some of +his staff, my gig’s crew gently shouldered the cot on which he lay, and +so conveyed His Excellency to the barge. The sea was smooth; those on +board were prepared: he was hoisted up; once in my cabin no one could +approach him except through me, and I was proud and hopeful of my +charge. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX + +_MÆANDER_--CRUISING + + +[Sidenote: 1848. Labuan, Dec. 3.] + +Sir James Brooke had duties to perform as Her Majesty’s Commissioner to +the Sultan of Borneo, and the Chiefs of the Malayan Archipelago; but he +was only able to indicate to me the direction he wished to go. + +Our chief object being the restoration of his health, we managed, by +keeping the ship under easy sail during the day, and anchoring in the +evening, to give him the advantage of undisturbed rest at night. + +Among the invalids were the A.D.C., Captain Brooke, poor Dr. +Treacher, a mere shadow of what he was, young Charles Grant, and the +good-tempered Spenser St. John, whose kindness to the sick had been +unabated. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +Weighed at daylight, and with fair wind, smooth water, and fine +weather, coasted along in the direction of Pulo Tiga, the scenery +increasing in beauty as we got to the northward. + +Running between Pulo Tiga and Tanjong Klias, we shaped a course for the +Kimanis River, up which there was a fine old Orang Kaya (chief man), +Istur by name, a friend of our Rajah. It was dark when we came to. This +was formerly a great haunt of the Illanuns and other pirates. + + [Illustration: Map--Eastern Archipelago.] + +[Sidenote: Dec. 5.] + +Having obtained the necessary information from native fishing boats, +sent the second gig up the river to inform the Orang Kaya of the +Rajah’s arrival, as well as to solicit a pilot for the River Mengatal. + +I had intended to go up in the cool of the evening, but in the +afternoon the unusual appearance, in these waters, of a boat with a +European sail was reported, coming along shore. She proved to belong to +the _Minerva_ schooner, bringing the master and mate of that vessel, +which they had left on a coral bank near Balambangan. + +In the master, Lonsdale, I recognised an old acquaintance, who formerly +commanded the _Maria_, one of the transports under convoy of the _Dido_ +during the Chinese war. He stated that, having run on the reef, and +finding that his vessel could not be got off without being lightened, +he was throwing her cargo of teak overboard when he observed several +prahus coming out from under a point of land. Having no arms he had +taken to his long-boat, with the few valuables he could hastily +collect, manned by his Lascar crew, making eighteen in all. + +Ten of the Lascars afterwards left him on his landing at a part of the +island for fuel and water. He then went on, intending to coast down as +far as Labuan. + +While at morning quarters, off Kimanis, a swarm of bees, attracted +perhaps by the sound of the band, came round the ship, and finally +settled on the under quarter of the cross-jack-yard, presenting an +extraordinary appearance. By clinging to one another, they formed +themselves into a bag 12 or 14 inches deep, the mouth of which, +attached to the cross-jack-yard, occupied a space of about 2 feet in +length by 1 wide, which was shaken and moved by the wind. + +Fearing that the men might get stung on going aloft, I tried to +dislodge the bees, first by discharging a musket with a double charge +of coarse powder at them from the mizzen-rigging, within 4 yards. + +This having no effect, it was fired at the same distance with a charge +of sand, by which a few fell. The vacancies were immediately filled up, +and the bag seemed to stick closer than ever. + +They remained two days, during which time we were twice under way, +making and shortening sail, in each of which operations the chain +topsail sheet ran through the centre of the bag and disturbed large +portions of them in its passage; but the bees returned and repaired the +damage as soon as the sheet or clew line had been belayed. + +The disaster of the _Minerva_ induced me to defer our visit to the +village, in order that we might repair to the scene of the wreck and +render assistance. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Early the following morning, having hoisted the boat on board, we +weighed with a fresh southerly wind, along the coast, a couple of miles +off-shore, with the noble mountain of Kina-Balu in the background +raising its magnificent head above the clouds. + +[Illustration: _Kina-Balu._] + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +Nothing could be finer than the scene before us; our poor invalids were +much too ill to enjoy it, but this was the first day in which I had +been able to discover the slightest improvement in Brooke’s condition. + +As might be supposed, when we found the wreck, not only had she been +completely gutted, but burned to the water’s edge, for the sake of the +copper and iron bolts. We saw, in fact, native boats in the distance +making off with the plunder. + +The appearance of Balambangan is far from inviting, and the approaches +to it are shoal and intricate. + +Weighed, and stood into Malludu Bay. On our way we fell in with a +native prahu, belonging to Seriff Hussein, a son of the unfortunate +Seriff Osman, who made such a gallant resistance in August 1845 up the +Malludu River, when attacked by the boats of the _Vestal_, Captain +Talbot. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Seriff Hussein was reticent on his first interview with Rajah Brooke, +but opened out more fully on his second visit. He and the chiefs with +him complained of the unprotected state and want of government under +which they lived. Each petty chief quarrelled with and attacked his +weaker neighbours, while they in turn lived in constant dread of an +attack from the more formidable Bajow or Sulu pirates. + +These people were particularly obliging and civil, and sent their men +to show us the best shooting-ground, rather appearing to like our +visit, though we were not long enough together to establish implicit +confidence. + +Having pulled and poled over a bar, and up a shallow salt-water creek, +on the east side of the bay, a little to the northward of where we +were anchored, we landed a small shooting party, and were shown some +particularly likely-looking ground, covered with long grass and +intersected in all directions by the fresh tracks of wild cattle. A hog +was the result of our sport; but three large deer made their appearance +on the edge of the jungle, just as the guns had been discharged at our +less-dignified game. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +With our tender, _Jolly Bachelor_, in company, we weighed and stood +towards the Island of Mallewali and soon entered among the dangers of +the Sulu Seas. + +As far as the eye could reach from the masthead, patches of sand and +coral banks were visible, but the weather was fine, the water smooth +and clear; time our own, and with our tender sounding ahead, we +proceeded, nothing daunted by appearances. We could always pick our way +by daylight and anchor at sunset. + +Mallewali is surrounded by coral reefs and sandbanks. There appears to +be a fine harbour to the eastward, but certainly no safe entrance for a +ship the size of _Mæander_. + +Exploring parties landed and the island was well traversed, but no +traces of inhabitants were seen, and only rumours of tracks of game. + +[Sidenote: Mallewali, Dec. 13.] + +At 10 A.M. expired, in the prime of life, one of our finest young +men, John Jago, another victim to Labuan fever; he had several times +rallied, but two days previous to his death he sent to take leave of +me, and I was some time endeavouring to cheer him up. + +The sick were suspended in cots on both sides of the main-deck; and +when a death occurred it was difficult to hide from the others what had +taken place. + +Jago was the last of the barge’s crew who was taken ill, and had +attended most of his shipmates through their attacks of fever. There +was a happy expression of countenance and a generosity about this +poor fellow that had endeared him to officers and men. He left me the +address of his mother, and of a young girl to whom he was betrothed. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 15.] + +[Sidenote: Sulu, Dec. 18.] + +We weighed as soon as the sun was high enough to show us the dangers, +standing under easy sail to the eastward, with _Jolly Bachelor_ +sounding ahead. After some little difficulty in winding the ship +between the shoals, and an occasional scrape on some projecting point +of coral that had outgrown the bed to which it belonged, we made +Cagayan Sulu on the 18th, but before coming to an anchor on the eastern +side, we buried George Martin, a young marine. + +Dollars not being a current medium of exchange among most of these +islands, glass beads, looking-glasses, coloured cottons, etc., had been +brought by us for purposes of barter. + +We were very anxious to obtain a supply of bullocks, to keep our +people as much on fresh meat as possible. The purser and interpreter, +with a party of officers, went in a boat to communicate with a house +which struck us in passing--from its size and plantations round it--as +probably belonging to some chief, by whose assistance we hoped to get a +supply of cattle. + +Having, with difficulty, got inside the shoals, and effected a landing, +our party was received in the politest manner by a fine-looking old +Malay, who came down with his family to meet them. + +They made him understand our wants; and he sent immediately to the +chief of the district, and acquainted him with our wishes, appointing +the next morning at nine as the time to receive the chief’s answer. + +Our people left the shore much pleased with their friend, who, as I +have before remarked of the well-bred Malays, was a gentleman, polite, +easy, and dignified. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 19.] + +The next morning the same party landed with the necessary articles for +barter, expecting to meet the chief or his deputy, and make a bargain +for the cattle. Their friend of the previous evening received them in +the same kind manner. + +They waited some time in expectation of the cattle arriving, instead +of which, parties of natives kept thronging in, well armed with kris, +spear, and shield--their tom-toms beating outside. + +After a while came the chief with a numerous train--himself a +humpbacked, ferocious-looking savage--with all his men in padded +jackets, and regular fighting costume. He made no reply to the +questions of our party about bullocks, but kept his hand on his kris, +and appeared undecided how to act. + +We were only eight in number, and destitute of arms, with the +exception of my double-barrel, the kind behaviour of their friend the +night before having completely removed all suspicion of any sinister +behaviour. + +Surrounded now by about sixty well-armed, rascally-looking thieves, +of hostile demeanour, we thought it best to put on as bold a front as +possible, and at the same time quietly to retire. Nor did we underrate +our good fortune in regaining the boat without further molestation, +the ship being some miles distant, and shut from view by projecting +headlands. + +This was a lesson not to venture, in future, out of sight of the ship +among the natives of these islands without an apparent superiority +of force. Their white flags were hung out as much for the purpose of +entrapping the weak as of bartering with the strong. Finding our wishes +not likely to be attained, and not liking our berth, which was exposed +to the eastward, we weighed, and ran round to the opposite side of +Cagayan Sulu. This island, from its size and population, is next in +importance to Sulu itself. + +The scenery, at this stage of our wanderings, was the perfection of +tropical beauty, with just sufficient cultivation to redeem it from the +appearance of wildness. + +As we ran past the bungalows and small villages on the southern shore, +the inhabitants showed great alacrity in displaying pieces of white +cloth; we ourselves keeping a white flag constantly flying, to show our +peaceable intention and desire to communicate with them. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Having stood out for the melancholy purpose of committing to the deep +the body of a marine, named Allan Cameron, another victim to Labuan +fever, we came to an anchor on the south-west side, off the principal +village of Cagayan Sulu. + +We here encountered none of the menacing style of rogues on the +eastern side; the people were willing to exchange cattle, poultry, and +vegetables for our articles of barter. Red and white cotton were the +most attractive, while empty bottles and midshipmen’s anchor buttons +fetched their full value. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 22.] + +Weighed and stood towards Mambahennan, a small island to the southward, +intending to come to for the night; but finding no anchorage, and the +sea being now comparatively clear of shoals, we stood to the eastward, +came to under the lee of an island, a sandy point. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +About noon made some islands. Chart too incorrect to make out what they +are. Found anchorage under the lee of one of them. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 24.] + +Invalids improving but slowly. Our clergyman, Hannan, very far from +well; symptoms of breakdown of brain. Also the return of his delusion +that the Queen was coming to Labuan to put things to rights. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Not the merriest Christmas I ever passed. Ship’s company landed in +evening to amuse themselves in the jungle with their muskets. No +accidents occurred. Passengers dined with me. Poor Rajah still ill, +also his nephew, Brooke Brooke, the A.D.C. + +[Sidenote: Sulu, Dec. 27.] + +It was late when we came to an anchor. A good sprinkling on the sea of +fishing and trading boats, of picturesque build and rig, gave to this +place a pleasing appearance of life and animation, such as we had not +before witnessed. + +The ship had been seen from the high land long before, and we were not +surprised by the appearance of some bustle taking place in the town: +lights were moving about all night. We imagined, and afterwards found +it to be the case, that they were removing their valuables, with their +women and children, to the mountains, as a precaution in case our visit +was hostile. + +We had looked forward with much interest to our visit to Sulu, and were +not, on the whole, disappointed--though perhaps it may be considered +rather curious than interesting. + +The English ensign was flying over a house, which we knew at once must +be that of Mr. Windham. An officer was sent to communicate and obtain +information. + +The town is built, like most Malay places, partly on land and partly +in the sea; the former part was strongly stockaded and flanked with +batteries mounting heavy guns. The Sultan, under the influence and +counsel of the Rajah of Sarawak, had become opposed to piracy and +anxious for its suppression. + +That portion of the town which is not within the stockades is built in +regular Malay fashion, on piles. The houses run in rows or streets; +and outside them is a platform about six feet wide. These rows of +birdcage-looking buildings extend into the sea for half a mile, over a +shoal which is nearly dry at low water. The population are principally +fishermen and Chinese traders. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 28.] + +Mr. Windham’s house was built on one of these rickety platforms, and at +low water it was necessary for us, who wore shoes and stockings, to be +carried from the boat and deposited on his accommodation-ladder, where +a kind welcome awaited us. + +We found him dressed in Malay costume, and from long residence among +them he had assumed much of the appearance and manner of a native. He +willingly undertook the task of communicating with the Sultan, and +arranging an audience for Sir James Brooke. + +The usual salutes were exchanged. Mr. Windham informed us that a short +time previously, when he was absent attending the pearl-fishing at the +Ceroo Islands, two Dutch men-of-war had arrived at Sulu, who, after +visiting and exchanging the usual salutes, suddenly attacked the town; +this accounted for the panic on the night of our arrival. + +The Dutchmen, having fired on the town for some time, landed and burnt +a few houses, paying Mr. Windham the compliment of making particular +inquiries for his, which they destroyed, together with much valuable +property. He took us a short walk, I fancy about as far as he dared +himself venture, into the interior. + +What we saw of the country was highly cultivated, consisting, with +intervals of jungle, of pasture-grounds and gardens, and an abundance +of cattle. + +Our appearance excited much curiosity with the natives, and many +questions were asked, but the presence and explanation of Mr. Windham +satisfied them. + +Before commencing our watering, it was necessary to make certain +arrangements, as a French squadron under Admiral Cecille had been +much molested during that operation a short time previously, and an +attempt had been made to poison the springs; all necessary precautions, +therefore, were taken on our part. + +The _Jolly Bachelor_ was first placed a few yards from the +watering-place, which her howitzers completely covered. + +Our people were charged to avoid offending the natives in any way +during their casual intercourse. Under these auspices our watering +progressed quickly and well. + +It was not considered prudent to venture into the interior on shooting +excursions, but we heard that there were partridges and quail, wild +ducks, snipe, and teal. Monkeys, doves, and pigeons we saw. The beef we +found particularly good. + +We went to see what they call their races, which were held in an +open space not far from the town, and observed groups of savage, but +picturesque-looking men, mounted on spirited, strong-built small +horses, of the Manila or Spanish breed; they were generally well armed, +bearing each a spear or lance. + +Presently a man would dash out from the rest as a challenge; then one +from another group, or perhaps from the same, would ride up alongside; +then both would start off in lines of their own choosing, in a brisk +trot; at which pace the races were generally contested. + +On several occasions I noticed a ruffian, apparently mounted no better +than his neighbours, start out from the crowd; but no one seemed to +accept the challenge. + +These men were a sort of bravos, whom nobody cared to quarrel with, and +such an offence as beating them at a race would be sure to end in a +brawl. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 30.] + +This was the day appointed for Sir James Brooke’s interview with the +Sultan of Sulu. We landed in full dress at ten o’clock. Having walked +over the sea suburbs, and arrived at the beach, we found a guard +of honour and attendants waiting to conduct Brooke to the Sultan’s +presence; they were a motley group, but made themselves useful in +clearing the way. + +Passing within the outer stockade, we arrived, after a few minutes’ +walk, at the royal residence. + +It was walled in and fortified. A large space was enclosed by double +rows of heavy piles driven into the earth, about 5 feet apart, and the +space filled up with large stones and earth, making a solid wall 15 +feet high, with embrasures, or rather portholes, in convenient places +for cannon, out of which we noticed some rusty muzzles. Passing through +a massive gateway, well flanked with guns and loopholes, we entered a +large court, in which some two thousand persons were assembled, armed, +and in their best apparel, but observing no sort of order. It was a +wild and novel sight. + +Malays are always armed. The kris to them is what the sword was to +an English gentleman in the Middle Ages. Every person who, by virtue +of his rank, or on any other pretext, could gain admittance, was +in attendance on this occasion; for our Rajah had become a justly +celebrated man in the great Eastern Archipelago, and was an object of +curiosity. The audience-chamber was not large. A table covered with +green cloth ran across the centre of it. Above the table, and round the +upper end of the room, sat a brilliant semicircle of personages, the +Sultan occupying a raised seat in the centre. + +His Highness gave us a gracious reception, shaking hands with each +officer as he was presented. This ceremony over, chairs were placed for +Sir James and his suite. The scene was striking and gay. + +The Sultan is a young-looking man, but with a dull and vacant +expression, produced by too frequent a use of opium. His lips were red +with the mixture of betel-nut and siri leaf which he chewed. He was +dressed in rich silks, red and green the predominant colours. A large +jewel sparkled in his turban, and he carried a magnificent kris. + +The entire court was dressed in rich coloured brocades and silks, and +many of the guard wore ancient chain armour, covering the arms, and +reaching from throat to knee, their heads protected by skull-caps to +match. + +Those armed with sword, spear, and kris did not look amiss, but +two sentries, placed to guard the entrance to this ancient hall of +audience, each shouldering a shabby-looking old Tower musket, of which +they seemed very proud, had an absurd effect. + +Although no actual treaty was concluded, Sir James Brooke paved the way +for opening up commerce, and for cultivating a better understanding +with the natives. + +Mr. Windham had been trying to persuade the Sulus to hoist the St. +George’s Cross in their trading prahus, as a badge of peaceful +mercantile occupation, by which they might be known to our cruisers, +but this suggestion had not yet been adopted. + + + + +CHAPTER XL + +_MÆANDER_--CRUISING IN THE SULU SEA + + +[Sidenote: 1849. Jan. 3.] + +We quitted Sulu with regret. I liked Windham--a comical mixture of +English honesty and native cunning. + +Standing along the coast to the eastward, at 8 P.M. came to in a +beautiful and secure anchorage, protected by the Island of Toolyan, +said to belong to the English. Natives frightened. The scenery, +although no Kina-Balu, was more beautiful than any we had yet seen. + +Our late arrival caused the same consternation as at Sulu. The same +noise and flitting about of lights; until one fine fellow, determined +to risk his life for the community, paddled alongside. When our pacific +intentions were made known confidence was quickly established. + +This island is separated from Sulu by a narrow strait. It appeared well +cultivated; there were gardeners on shore and fishermen afloat, the +people more peaceably inclined than their neighbours; but we did not +trouble them, and proceeded for Samboangan. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 4.] + +Our invalids improved, with the exception of the chaplain, whose health +caused anxiety. + +The excitement and interest of our cruise rather increased as we +proceeded. On the 5th we anchored off the Bolod Islands, and landed to +search for the eggs of a bird which, from the description given us, we +supposed to be the Megapodius. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 8.] + +Anchored off the west coast of the island of Basilair, the largest of +the Sulu Archipelago, on which the Spaniards have established a small +settlement, not without trouble, the inhabitants being hostile and +warlike, keeping their garrison on the alert. The French squadron, +under Admiral Cecille, sustained some loss in an attack by boats here. +The next day we worked our way between numerous small but beautiful +islands, only regretting we had not time to explore them. + +[Sidenote: The Philippines.] + +At 9 P.M. we came to off the fort of Samboangan. On the following +morning saluted the Spanish flag. + +The settlement is on the south part of the Philippine group, and its +population reinforced by convicts from Manila. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 9.] + +The inhabitants are fierce, and celebrated for their piratical +propensities. We much enjoyed a few days in this comparatively +civilised place. + +Owing to the clever management of the Governor, Don Cayetano de +Figueroa, Colonel of Engineers, a very sociable system of society +prevailed, uniting all classes--the proud Spanish dames not refusing to +meet in the same ballroom the pretty half-caste women who during the +mornings were engaged in washing clothes or retailing eggs and poultry +in the market. + +The hospitality of the Governor provided for us at his residence early +every morning a cup of excellent chocolate. After _chôta hazari_, +horses being in readiness, he would accompany us, pointing out +everything worth seeing. + +The settlement of Samboangan lies within narrow boundaries; but in the +immediate vicinity of the town the land was highly cultivated. + +In our rides we were attended by boys carrying our guns, the jungle +abounding in varieties of doves and pigeons, also a bantam fowl. + +We had dances and dinners on shore and on board; indeed it was with no +small regret we took leave of our kind and hospitable friends. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14.] + +There is much in these regions to interest the conchologist and to +reward his researches among the rocks and seaweeds: finding I was a +collector, the officers of the Spanish marine supplied me from their +private collections with some beautiful specimens of the spondylus and +chama. + +We left Samboangan in company with a fleet of gunboats that would have +done credit to any nation. + +It must be confessed that in _systematic_ protection to the commerce of +their respective seas both Spain and Holland surpass us. The Spaniards, +alive to the truth that commerce and piracy cannot co-exist, have long +since maintained such a naval force as has not only driven away, but +_keeps_ at a distance from the Philippine Islands, those hordes who +used to inflict on their marine traffic such sacrifice of life and +property. + +The Dutch, true to the same policy, and perhaps even more happy in +its exercise, have by a system of vigilance along the whole coast of +Java, so eradicated piracy from the Celebes, that murderers have been +converted into merchants. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 16.] + +Observing a sandbank to the north-west not mentioned in our charts, +we hauled up, intending to anchor near it and ascertain its correct +position. + +With reduced sail we neared the island; and with the leads going, +look-out men at the masthead, and occasional cast of the deep-sea lead, +we approached the lee side and got within cables’ length of the beach +without obtaining bottom at 120 fathoms. + +A line of breakers with overfalls extended off the north-west end, +having the appearance of a shelf of rocks, but these proved to be +nothing but a tide ripple as we stood near. The island was small, and +had the same appearance all round. On landing we found a patch of +glaring white sand, without a vestige of vegetation, surrounded by a +belt of coral about a mile and a half in circumference, and so steep +that I believe we might have rubbed the sides of the _Mæander_ against +it without obtaining bottom. + +We found on this lonely coral island the solitary grave of a Mussulman. +Here was, indeed, a resting-place likely to be undisturbed. + +[Sidenote: Cagayan Sulu, Jan. 19.] + +Came to in ten fathoms, about a mile off the south side of Cagayan, +and commenced our examination of the curious circular lake before +mentioned. The entrance is by a gap. This, however, is crossed by a +bank of coral, which at low water is nearly dry, so to exclude any boat +larger than a canoe. Just outside the middle of the bar was a small +island of rock and sandstone, with a sufficient shelter to make an +excellent shaded spot for our picnic. + +On passing the bar we found ourselves inside a magnificent circular +lake of deep blue water, with a circumference of about three miles, and +completely encircled by sandstone cliffs, upwards of 200 feet in height +and nearly perpendicular, covered with shrubs. + +In the natural barriers of this remarkable enclosure only two small +breaks occurred--one was the gap by which we entered, the other was on +the E.N.E. side. + +Nothing could be more luxuriant than the growth of trees and shrubs, +their trunks and branches covered with a variety of beautiful orchids +in brilliant blossom hanging in festoons to the water’s edge. + +Over our heads, disturbed by such unusual visitors, numbers of +pigeons flew to and fro, while many varieties of the parrot uttered +remonstrances. + +Formed ourselves into small parties--some to haul the seine, others +in search of shells, while a third explored the gap on the north-east +side, clambering up without any anticipation of a further treat. + +At a height of about eighty feet another beautiful but smaller lake +burst in sight, circular in form, and as nearly as possible similar to +that which they had left. + +The two lakes were separated by a natural wall; and the spectator +standing on its narrow edge could, by a turn of head, look at the depth +of thirty feet on the inner lake, or on the outer one, eighty feet +beneath him. + +Men and axes were procured from the ship, the trees were cut down and a +path made up the gap, and so over to the fresh-water lake. A raft was +constructed, and with a small boat belonging to the tender launched +upon the water. + +Our operations drew some natives to the spot, who expostulated and +informed us that the water of the upper lake was sacred, and had never +yet been desecrated by the presence of a canoe; that the Spirit of +the Lake (by description, a fiery dragon of the worst order) would be +annoyed at the innovation: nothing would induce them to venture on it. +These scruples were, however, got over by a glass of grog. + +The inner lake was the finer of the two; it might at one time, by some +volcanic convulsion, have risen and burst through its barriers at this +spot into the lower basin, which in turn may have formed the gap in the +outer side. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +We now took up our old berth in the south-west bay of Cagayan Sulu, +and commenced an active barter for stock; this, however, was brought +to a sudden close on the 22nd, the natives taking fright at our shell +practice. We were exercising at general quarters, and a few of them +had remained to see the shot strike the target; but the double report +produced by these missiles was too much for Sulu nerves. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +Sailed, making for the northward of Banguey, anchoring occasionally. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Came to in Victoria Bay, Labuan, and soon after landed Rajah Brooke, +restored to comparative health. + +Found orders for our being in China by the end of March. Labuan is much +improved, residences having been shifted to where they ought to have +been at the beginning. Hugh Low better. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 30.] + +Breakfasted with, and took leave of, the Rajah, who shortly after went +to Sarawak. Weighed for Singapore. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +Young Dalyell dined with me to keep his pretty sister Bijou’s birthday. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 1.] + +Anchored in Singapore Roads. Further orders for China, the +Commander-in-Chief thinking it advisable to have a force ready in case +the Government should have to enforce the treaty made by Sir John Davis +with the Chinese Government in 1847, by which the gates of the city of +Canton were to be opened to foreigners. + +This treaty was likely to be disregarded by the Chinese, according +to opportunity, when the immediate danger should be removed: it was +made at the bayonet point, while our troops were in possession of the +environs of the Celestial City. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 2.] + +Among memos the Chief left was one directing any ship on her way to +Hong Kong to bring three heavy spars that were waiting passage to the +Government House for mast, topmast, and yard. + +One was ninety-six feet long, a beautiful straight stick, but heavy as +lead, which no other ship on the station could or would carry. How to +get it on board was a difficulty. + +Luckily we had a brig-of-war at anchor: I removed the cabin stern +windows on the starboard side, and the bulkheads of the fore and after +cabins. Secured the main-deck guns in-board fore and aft. The war-brig +undertook to lift one end of the spar to the level of our main-deck. + +On board we had power enough to draw it to a snug berth, which gave us +a list. The topmast and yard we secured to the main and mizzen chains +on the port side. + +We were going to Hong Kong, but were not afraid of the war junks even +in our disabled state. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 17.] + +Sailed for China, shaping our course so as to communicate with Sarawak +and Labuan. + +_Auckland_ sailed before us with our marines, and poor Hannan, our +chaplain, invalided. I shall miss him much. Eleven of this fine corps +of marines had become victims to Labuan fever. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Left the ship, which came to off Santobong, in gig, up the river to +Sarawak. + +Kindly received by Brooke, who had returned. The place flourishing, but +too many useless hangers-on about him! Took up the mail; no time to +spare. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 26.] + +Up early. Succeeded in getting on board in one tide. Weighed at once. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +Caught a shark this afternoon--the first, by the bye, in this ship. +Measured about 5 feet, but amazingly powerful. He was cut up and eaten +within twenty minutes of his coming on board. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +Arrived early in Hong Kong Harbour. Found the Admiral recovering from +the effects of a paralytic stroke--poor, dear old boy!--very game +though. When I reported having the spars on board, he said, “More fool +you; if I could not bring them in a line-of-battle ship, how were you +to do it in a frigate?” + +A most effective squadron met together, commanded by an unusually nice +set of fellows:-- + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Mar. 31.] + +_Hastings_ (Flag), _Albatros_, 12, Commander, Arthur Farquhar; +_Scout_, 14, Commander, Frederick Johnstone; _Pilot_, 12, Edmund M. +Lyons; _Columbine_, 16, John C. D. Hay; _Arab_, 12, William Morris; +_Inflexible_, 6, steam sloop, John C. Hoseason; and the _Fury_, 6, +steam sloop, James Wilcox; the two latter at Whampoa. Tiffin with +Farquhar. + +[Sidenote: April 2.] + +Dined with General Staveley, C.B.; he an old friend at the Mauritius in +1829. + +[Sidenote: April 4.] + +Chinese reply, refusing to comply with the Treaty of Sir John Davis, +and we about to pocket the insult. + +[Sidenote: April 10.] + +Finding there was no intention on the part of our Government to enforce +the Davis Treaty, the Chief left in _Inflexible_ to visit the northern +ports; he ordered _Hastings_ to Singapore, dispersed the sloops, +_Albatros_ to Borneo, and the others to their respective stations at +the ports in China, opened to trade by the Pottinger Treaty. _Mæander_ +was left to take care of Hong Kong. + +How little our Government knew about China. + +[Illustration: Mæander, _Hong Kong. Manned Yards on Departure of Sir +Francis Collier._] + + + + +CHAPTER XLI + +_MÆANDER_--HONG KONG + + +[Sidenote: 1849. Hong Kong, April to May.] + +Nothing unusual took place during our stay here. Various acts of +piracy, attended by cruel murders, occurred between Hong Kong and the +entrance to the Canton River; but this could not be called unusual. + +Some of the rogues were taken by the _Inflexible_, and six of them +hanged at West Point; but so little effect had this example that a +fresh act of piracy was committed within sight of the suspended sinners +and the sentry’s musket. + +The Admiral returned in the _Fury_ on the 20th May, much benefited by +his trip to the northern ports. + +He sailed again on the 26th, leaving us to await the arrival of the +_Amazon_, 26, from England. She came in the following day, and we +prepared to return to our old station in the Eastern Archipelago; but +before our departure an event occurred which gave an unanticipated +notoriety to our short sojourn. + +Were I to pass it unnoticed, my motive might be mistaken; but as the +narrative must unavoidably be egotistical, those of my readers who have +no inclination to discuss a point of international law, nor to see how +it was decided, on this occasion at least, by a British boat’s crew +and a party of marines, may pass to the next chapter. + +Just before the arrival of the _Amazon_, I received an invitation, +through my young friend, Mr. Robert Ellice (Honorary Secretary on the +occasion), to act as joint umpire with Commodore Geisinger, United +States Navy, at a regatta which had been got up, chiefly by Mr. Bush, +the American Consul at Hong Kong--he kindly giving a cup to be sailed +for. + +[Sidenote: June.] + +The event was to come off, weather permitting, on the 8th June. To this +proposal I cheerfully acceded. + +As the _Medea_, Commander Lockyer, was cruising outside for the +suppression of piracy, and the _Columbine_, Commander John Dalrymple +Hay, was coming down from Whampoa about that time for provisions, I +wrote to each of these officers, inviting them to meet me; and as I +had to give up the charge of the station to Captain Troubridge of the +_Amazon_ (which could be done as well at Macao), we agreed to meet +there on the 7th. + +[Sidenote: Macao, June 7.] + +The American squadron, consisting of the _Plymouth_, the _Peebles_, and +the _Dolphin_, added to our own, made a gay show in the roads; the Hong +Kong steamers were also called into requisition, and brought nearly all +those who had not found their way in the men-of-war. + +Having fired the usual salute on arrival, I proceeded with Captain +Troubridge on the following morning to pay our respects to the +Governor, Don Joao Maria Farriera do Amaral. + +I may here mention he was a captain in the Portuguese Navy--a gallant +and distinguished officer. + +He lost his right arm by a cannon shot, when eighteen years of age, +leading a storming party at Itaparica in Brazil. + +He had served also in the fleet of Don Pedro under Sir Charles Napier, +and spoke and understood English as well as we did. + +Don Joao received us most cordially, and in the course of conversation +said he had broken through a rule, by accepting an invitation to +dine with Mr. Forbes (an American gentleman to whom we were likewise +engaged), as he would not forego the pleasure of meeting his brother +officers. + +Taking our leave, we proceeded to the room in which we were to arrange +the starting of the vessels for the cup. + +At the door I was met by Captain Staveley, Military Secretary to his +father, General Staveley, C.B., commanding at Hong Kong, who requested +my assistance in getting a gentleman released, who had been imprisoned +the previous evening, he believed, for not saluting the “Host,” during +a procession on the Feast of Corpus Christi. + +I immediately expressed my willingness to apply to the Governor, +remarking that he was a very good fellow, and I was sure would not +hesitate to comply with my request. + +Accordingly, Troubridge and myself, accompanied by Captain Staveley, +returned to the Government House. + +Without waiting to be announced, we proceeded at once to the apartment +in which we had just before left Señor Amaral, and we found him seated +with the French Chargé d’Affaires, M. le Baron de Forth Rouen. + +I apologised for the intrusion; His Excellency, rising, accompanied me +to one of the windows. + +I then stated that I was come to ask a favour--that he would be so kind +as to give an order for the release of a Mr. Summers, who, it appeared, +had been confined in the common prison all night for not saluting the +“Host.” + +I concluded by remarking that, in all probability, His Excellency had +heard nothing of the business. + +To this he sharply replied, that not only did he know all about it, but +that the person in question had been confined by his order. + +I then remarked to His Excellency that the punishment (Mr. Summers had +been confined in the common jail, without food, since five o’clock the +previous afternoon) had surely been equal to the offence; and I again +expressed a hope that the Governor would order his release. + +On this he stated that Mr. Summers was sent to prison, not for any +disrespect to the “Host,” “for which he (the Governor) cared, perhaps, +as little as I did,” but for disobeying his order. + +I inquired, “What order?” + +He replied, “The order I gave him to take his hat off.” + +I then said, “Do I understand your Excellency rightly, that you could +order any person you chose to take off his hat in the open streets?” + +To this he replied, “Exactly so.” + +I then said that this altered the case, and that I must now request the +immediate liberation of Mr. Summers, as I could not consider that the +alleged offence for which he was imprisoned was any crime at all. + +I further added that I could hardly believe that I had heard now, in +the nineteenth century, the Governor of a Portuguese settlement assert +that he had imprisoned a British subject for refusing to take his hat +off in the open streets, when ordered by him, through a soldier, to do +so. + +The Governor replied that I was not acquainted with Portuguese law. + +I said, “Very likely not, but I know what common justice is”; and, +having bowed, retired. + +When I had got halfway down the steps, the Governor, calling me by +name, asked if I came to demand Mr. Summers’s liberation as a right, or +to ask it as a favour. + +I replied, that while I believed Mr. Summers had neglected to take +off his hat, as was customary, on the passing of one of the religious +ceremonies of the country, I had asked it as a personal favour; but +since His Excellency had explained that Mr. Summers was confined for +what I conceived to be no crime at all, I really could not, in the +position I then occupied, ask for his liberation as a favour. + +After this unexpected termination to our interview, we retired to the +residence of my friend, Mr. Patrick Stewart, situated within a few +doors of Government House, to consider with Captain Troubridge what +steps should next be taken. + +I felt it my duty to demand in writing the immediate release of Mr. +Summers; considering, however, the warm temperament of Señor do Amaral, +and the bearing towards me which he had already assumed, I could +scarcely augur for the more formal application that success which had +been denied to my friendly intercession. + +[Sidenote: June 8.] + +I thought it advisable, therefore, to make the necessary arrangements +in anticipation of denial. + +Owing to the shoalness of the water, no ship of any size could anchor +within three miles of the landing place. The boats of the squadron +were preparing to pull at the regatta. + +I sent a gig off to the First Lieutenant of the _Mæander_, with an +order to him to make the signal, “Prepare to land boats for service.” + +Captain Staveley, in the meantime, undertook to make himself +acquainted, without exciting suspicion, with the position and state of +the prison, the route to it, and how it was guarded, etc. + +To effect this he assumed a white jacket, the usual costume of +mercantile gentlemen; and, taking with him a basket of fruit, he walked +up and obtained an interview with the prisoner, returning with the +information we required. + +I wrote and sent off by Captain Troubridge an official letter to the +Governor, demanding, as senior naval officer, the immediate release of +Summers. + +To which he replied, saying he considered himself within his right in +ordering the man to take his hat off, and waiving the religious aspect +of the offence. + +To dance attendance beyond this point on Portuguese justice at Macao +seemed to me unworthy of my position and hopeless as to the object. + +I was referred to the Judge, who, in his turn, would have referred me +back to the Governor, whose tool he was, and with whom alone I could +properly hold official intercourse; in the meantime Mr. Summers must +lie in prison awaiting the “course of law,” which had before now left +British subjects to die incarcerated in this very prison. + +I decided on liberating him at once. + +To do so with the least possible risk of a disastrous incident was now +the great object. + +A second boat being despatched to the _Mæander_, with directions that +the signal should be made “Boats to land immediately,” I went on board +the _Canton_ steamer, which was moored off the town, and took my place +as umpire at the regatta, which was about to commence. + +We started the sailing-boats, and, shortly afterwards observing some of +the boats on their way to the shore in obedience to signal, I excused +myself for a few minutes and again landed. + +The first boat to arrive was the _Mæander’s_ barge, commanded by Mr. +Burnaby, with a crew of twelve blue-jackets and six marines. I asked +Staveley whether he thought he could, by a _coup-de-main_, release Mr. +Summers with that one boat’s crew? + +To this he gallantly replied that he had no objection to try, +stipulating only, like a good general, that I should secure his retreat. + +Upon this I requested Burnaby, who had charge of the barge’s crew, to +attend to his wishes. + +Passing quickly through a house which had a back entrance to the Senate +Square, and so to the street in which the prison stood, Staveley and +his party immediately proceeded. + +The cutter from the _Mæander_ arriving next, I directed its crew to +take charge of the house through which Captain Staveley had passed, +placing sentries at each door. + +The third boat had just arrived, when my attention was attracted +towards Senate Square by the report of musketry. + +Leaving orders with the officer in charge of the landing-place to pay +_every attention_ to His Excellency should he land before my return +(which was not improbable, since he must have seen all that was going +on from on board the _Plymouth_), I was hastening to the scene of +action, when I met Captain Staveley walking down, arm-in-arm, with Mr. +Summers, the rear brought up by the barge’s crew. + +I immediately sent to stop the disembarkation of any more men. + +The whole business from the landing of the barge’s crew until their +return to the boat with Mr. Summers did not occupy a quarter of an hour. + +The arms from the launch and barge were transferred to the pinnace, +and the boats, with the exception of those which were to pull for the +prizes, were ordered back to their respective ships. + +I returned to the _Canton_, and had the pleasure of seeing the two best +prizes won by the launch and barge of the _Mæander_. + +I learned from Staveley that his party had to cross the Square to get +to the street in which the prison was situated. On the left side of the +Square was the entrance to the arsenal, near which was a battery of +four field-pieces with a guard. + +When abreast of this battery, Staveley directed Burnaby, with the +blue-jackets, to possess themselves of the guns and remain there until +his return, he proceeding with the marines to the prison. + +The sentry at the prison presented his musket at Staveley, upon which +the corporal of marines wounded him in the arm, causing him to drop his +musket. This proved to be superfluous, as the musket was found to be +unloaded. + +The jailer dropping his bunch of keys, and the guard having vanished, +the liberation of Mr. Summers was the work of a few seconds. + +I am sorry, however, to add that this object was not effected without +one serious casualty: a Portuguese soldier was killed by a musket-shot, +whether from the weapon of his countrymen we could not determine; the +victim was said to have been unarmed. + +Captain Staveley in his official report stated that some shots were +exchanged between our men and the Portuguese, the latter firing into +the Square from the windows of the barracks, in which way they probably +killed their own comrade; but the point is not worth discussing, as it +could neither lessen nor increase my responsibility. + +For this I was reprimanded by the Admiralty, and thanked by Lord +Palmerston. + + + + +[Illustration: _A Spanish Galleon_] + +CHAPTER XLII + +IN EASTERN SEAS + + +[Sidenote: 1849. Macao, June 9.] + +We left the scene of this “untoward event” on the morning of June 9. On +the 21st anchored in Manila Bay. + +Respecting either the Bay or the City, it would be difficult to write +anything new, having so recently described the visit of the _Dido_ to +this hospitable place. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +We were interested in the remains of an old Spanish galleon, at anchor +off Cavite Point; the same class so greedily sought by our cruisers in +days gone by. + +[Sidenote: July 2.] + +Sailed from Manila, July 2. + +[Sidenote: Balabec, July 16.] + +In these intricate seas it took most of the day for the master and +myself to study the charts and sailing directions, as supplied by the +Admiralty. + +We so arranged that the master should keep the middle, while I took +charge of the morning watch. + +[Sidenote: July 17.] + +It was on the 17th that I relieved the master; he assuring me that +we were now past, as far as the Admiralty charts and directions were +concerned, all dangers, and that I might wash decks or make sail as I +liked. + +Decided on making sail, standing to the westward in open sea; nothing +in sight. + +This done, we were in the act of coiling up ropes for washing decks, +while on the starboard-hammock netting I felt that unpleasant sensation +of the ship scraping the bottom, just as the headsman sang out, “nine +fathoms.” + +She would not answer her helm, but stuck fast. + +As the sails came down and hands turned up, boatswain piped “Out +boats,” the other watch rushed to their stations, as good men will, +without inquiring the cause. + +We had taken the ground at the top of high-water; boats went away to +sound. Booms and spars over the side to support her, as the tide left; +guns slung, buoyed, and cast overboard. + +Pinnace, Lieutenant Comber, sent to Labuan for assistance. The launch +laid out best bower-anchor in the direction in which we came. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +The next morning at half-past seven the ship lifted. + +The heaviest part was the weighing and replacing guns. The launch +lifted the guns and brought them alongside; the main-yard tackle, +properly secured, had to weigh them, the fall was passed round the +quarter-deck capstan. + +Boys manned the bars and ran round; but when the gun reached the +surface it required men at the capstan to hoist it over the hammock +netting. + +[Illustration: Mæander _on Shore_.] + +I mention this to show what every engineer knows, the extraordinary +power and buoyancy of salt water. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +By breakfast-time we were steering, with all sail set, for Balambangan; +and, if the rusty appearance of the muzzles of the guns had not told +tales, no one who met us could have seen that anything had happened. + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +Met in Kimanis Bay the H.E.T.C. steam-frigate _Semiramis_, Commander +Daniell, with our pinnace in tow. They manned the rigging and gave us +three hearty cheers. + +Comber told me that, after the tide fell, the ship had the appearance +of lying on the top of a hill. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Came to off Coal Point, Labuan. Coal had become so scarce at Singapore +that the Commander-in-Chief had sent to borrow some from the Dutch +Government at Batavia. + +All the surface coal had been picked off by the then contractors, +before the Charter was granted to the Eastern Archipelago Company to +supply our steamers, and that part of the seam at which they were now +working was some 200 yards from the water’s edge. + +By working in the cool of the morning and evening, we put on board in a +few days 150 tons, filling the after-hold. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 13.] + +We had just completed our dirty job, when the news reached us that the +Sekarran and Serebas pirates had put to sea, and that the _Albatros_, +Captain Farquhar, accompanied by Sir James Brooke and his native force, +was out in search of them: by the time we got to the Bornean coast +the fleet of pirates had been destroyed. Conceive my ill-luck! Lucky +Farquhar! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Arrived at Singapore. Ran with our cargo into New Harbour by the +western entrance. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 24.] + +_Hastings_, with flag flying, arrived in the roads in tow of _Fury_ +from Trincomalee. + +Having reported to the Admiralty the natural advantages of the Inner +Harbour of Singapore as a coaling-station over twelve months ago, +and no notice having been taken of my letter, I now sent a similar +statement, with survey, to the Secretary of the P. and O. Company. + +Found the _Australia_ schooner at Singapore, sent to us by the +Admiral from Trincomalee, to man and take to Sydney for the Colonial +Government. Sent Lieutenant Comber and eight men in charge of her. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +_Hastings_ left for China in tow of _Fury_; a farewell salute for Sir +Francis Collier. + +[To my sorrow we never met again. He died in China shortly after we +left the station.] + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +We took leave of our many kind friends, and proceeded on a more +interesting voyage than usually falls to the lot of a man-of-war. + +Our orders were, after having removed the garrison and stores from Port +Essington, to visit Sydney and Auckland, and call at the Friendly and +Society Islands on our way to Valparaiso. + +With these instructions came a private letter from Rear-Admiral J. W. +Deans Dundas, Second Sea Lord, from which I quote the following:-- + + I need not recommend Lead and Look Out to ye, but the Straits + are difficult and so are Society Islands. + + Keep _Mæander_ off the ground, and when there is a doubt, put + her head round. God speed ye.--Yours faithfully, + + J. W. D. DUNDAS. + +The _Australia_ was sent in advance, with directions to wait for us in +the Straits of Sunda. We ran between the Islands of Banca and Billiton +on the 29th, and anchored in Anjer roads on October 1. + +Anjer is nothing in itself: a small Dutch town and fort, clean, as +Dutch places are, with a large, comparatively dirty-looking Malay +village attached, inhabited partly by Chinese. + +The tree of Anjer is a striking object, a Banyan of great size, growing +close to the landing-place. From its summit rises a flagstaff, from +which floats the tricoloured flag of the Netherlands Government. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Anjer is the resort of vessels passing through the Straits, and may +be considered the key of the Eastern Archipelago. Letters left here, +properly addressed, find their way to any part of the world. + +The boats which come alongside are laden with a variety of fruits, +vegetables, live-stock, monkeys, parrots, etc., to suit the tastes and +wants of the outward or homeward bound traders. + +Having despatched the schooner to Sydney by the western coast of +Australia, we weighed on the afternoon of October 3. + +Our route to the eastward for the next 3000 miles lay between the 6th +and 10th degrees of latitude, during which we should pass a succession +of beautiful islands, with the sea in all probability so smooth that a +canoe might live in it: the finest weather and the prevailing winds in +our favour. + +[Sidenote: Java, Oct. 6.] + +A short run carried us into Batavia Roads. On nearing this spacious +anchorage, in which the flags of all nations may be seen, from the +prahus of the Spice Islands to the fine traders of the United States, +you are at once impressed with the idea that you are approaching a +large and opulent city. + +We passed inside the fortified island of Onrust, on which stands the +great Naval Arsenal. + +Saluted the Dutch Admiral, while running in, with 13 guns, and the +Netherlands flag with 21. + +A United States ship near us had a cargo of Wenham Lake ice, the master +of which sent to inform our officers that they were welcome to as much +ice as they liked. + +I have always found much generosity and frankness among the officers of +the American marine. + +They “calculate” and they “guess,” and have a fair notion of the value +of a dollar, and are smart fellows at a bargain; they occasionally deal +a little in the marvellous sea-serpent line, but they are amusing, with +one exception, which will appear hereafter. + +Batavia deserves a great deal more notice than we had time to bestow +upon it, being the capital of all the Dutch possessions in the Far +East, with a mixed population, chiefly Javanese, of about 120,000. + +Like Manila, the city is approached from seaward by a long straight +canal, running between two massive walls; and, as there is a strong +current generally setting out, the easiest way to stem it is to land +the crew and track the boat. + +The houses near the sea, although large and handsome buildings, are +used for business purposes only. The situation is on a swampy flat, and +at certain times unhealthy. + +The appearance of a British man-of-war is so uncommon, that the +_Mæander_ excited considerable speculation; but when we had stated our +destination, and that our chief object was to pay our respects to His +Serene Highness, Duke Bernard of Saxe-Weimar, the explanation seemed to +be satisfactory. + +I had met His Serene Highness last year at Madeira. + +We were entertained at a grand dinner given by the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, +General and Commander-in-Chief, whose example was followed by several +of the heads of departments. Dinners and balls followed in rapid +succession. + +The Batavia races took place while we were there, most of the prizes +being carried off by horses of English breed. The enterprising members +of this Turf Club gave a ball and supper, and made their appearance in +scarlet coats. + +Even during this short stay in the roads, some of those whose hammocks +were in the fore-part of the ship, and got the first of the land +breeze, did not escape the fatal effects of malaria. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 16.] + +Sailed 16th. Kept along the Java Coast. + +The fishing-boats, or “flying canoes of Java,” as they are not inaptly +styled, were objects of surprise and admiration. They are long, with +just beam enough to enable a man to sit between the gunwales. + +Passing Maduira and Java, we came abreast of the Island of Bali, +the only island in the Archipelago where the two great forms in the +Hindoo religion, the Brahminical (the original) and the Bhuddist (the +reformed), exist together, undisturbed. + +Bali has a remarkably high peak; and looks like a mountain sloping out +into extensive fertile and rich plains, producing two crops a year; +and as we passed along we saw abundance of cattle, fruit-trees, and +vegetables. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 5.] + +It would be superfluous for me to attempt to describe all the beautiful +islands we passed. + +Beyond the influence of Dutch protection, no more fishing canoes +enlivened the scene; no smoke rose from the numerous inlets along the +coasts to indicate the abodes of human beings. In the dense green +vegetation of the jungle, death-like stillness reigned supreme. + +In the course of our run, we passed numerous volcanic mountains; and +when in the 123rd degree of longitude, two islands attracted special +attention. + +One, Comba, of a conical shape, had all day been shooting up vast +volumes of smoke. After dark, when at the distance of a couple of +miles, we opened out the eastern side and observed the crater boiling +over in immense masses, rolling down the side of the mountain, losing +none of its brightness until it reached the sea, boiling the water. + +[Illustration: _Comba._] + +After passing Timor, and shaping a course more to the south-east, +between the two small islands of Babi and Kambing (Pig and Goat), +leaving Welta on our port side, we steered for Port Essington. A strong +current set us to the westward. + +When working up the Australian coast, we were boarded by a canoe, with +a crew of six of the veriest-looking savages we had yet beheld. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 11.] + +One pair of trousers, the only article of apparel between them. The +then wearer announced himself, in tolerable English, as one of the +tribe attached to the settlement of Port Essington. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 12.] + +We came to on the evening of November 12, in the outer anchorage, and +communicated to Captain M‘Arthur, then in command of the Royal Marines, +the agreeable and unexpected intelligence that we were come to remove +them. + +While the garrison rejoiced, the natives, especially the women, showed +their grief by cutting their heads and faces with sharp flints, and +otherwise disfiguring their already unprepossessing persons. + +Port Essington is situated on Coburg Peninsula, at the most northern +part of Australia. It was discovered by Captain Philip King, in his +survey between the years of 1818 and 1821; and formed, after the +settlements of Melville Island and Raffles Bay had been abandoned, a +harbour of refuge for vessels bound through Torres Straits, as well as +a convenient place for holding commercial intercourse with the Eastern +Archipelago. + +The settlement was established by Captain Sir J. Gordon Bremer in the +_Alligator_, assisted by Commander Owen Stanley in the _Britomart_ in +October 1838. + +They named the town Victoria: it consisted of a few wooden houses and +small huts, sufficient for the accommodation of the garrison, built +near the head of the harbour, some sixteen miles from the entrance. A +better site might have been selected nearer the sea, which would have +been cooler, and better supplied with water. + +[Illustration: Mæander _off Port Essington_.] + +A deeper anchorage, too, might have been considered; although, for +convenience, we took the _Mæander_ up off the settlement, we were much +too near the bottom had it been the stormy season. + +The country about Port Essington is undulating; there are ranges of +hills 10 or 15 miles from the settlement, rising to about 450 feet, +visible from the harbour. + +It is an unhealthy climate; the most frequent afflictions are +intermittent fevers and impairment of the digestive organs, caused by +the moist heat of the land-locked harbour, the swamps, and mangrove +marshes. + +There are tribes of natives on Coburg Peninsula, differing but little +in physical appearance, manners, and customs, but speaking a different +dialect. They meet occasionally to make corroboree, a kind of dramatic +dance, more famous for its noise than anything else. + +A dread of invasion from the cannibal tribes in the interior made them +unite, and was another cause of regret at the removal of the marines. + +[Illustration: _An Australian Grave._] + +When a native dies, he is wrapped in the bark of a tree, and bound +round with cord. + +A stage is made, by placing two forked branches, eight or ten feet in +height, upright in the ground, the forks uppermost, distant from each +other about five or six feet and facing the tree. + +A piece of wood is placed transversely, resting on the upright +branches. Upon this inclined stage the body, wrapped in its coffin of +bark, is laid, and there it remains. + +These places of deposit are avoided by the natives. Evil spirits +haunt them; when they are obliged to pass, they carry a fire-stick +to propitiate the spirit of darkness. Curiously enough, this mode of +disposing of their dead is common all over Australia, and, to their +credit, the blacks have never disturbed or defaced the graves of the +Europeans buried at Port Essington. + +We only remained long enough to be amused and interested with +everything we saw, enjoying excursions into the country; and the fact +of my having control over a quantity of damaged bread made the natives +very obliging. + +We had corroborees so often, that the kangaroo dance was as well +performed on the main-deck of the _Mæander_, thousands of miles from +where it originated, as we had seen it on the spot. + +During our stay, shooting-parties were got up. The best of the lagoons +are situated on the eastern side of the harbour; where there is a +succession of them. The jungle, through which we rode, was open below +but shaded overhead. + +We were attended by marines who had been longest on the station, more +intelligent in the jungle than the natives, who joined us for the sake +of what they were likely to get to eat, were cheerful and obliging, and +useful in carrying our ammunition, provender, and tents. + +Among the marines there were a few who, having a taste for that sort of +life, had for years supplied the settlement with game, and eventually +became experienced hunters, and excelled the natives in sagacity in all +that appertains to the mysteries of the jungle. + +These men alone were enough to make a bush-party agreeable. + +Highest in military rank was Sergeant Copp, a steady, untiring, keen +sportsman. Corporals Rowe, Chalford, and Jeffries were all good shots, +good-tempered, hard-working fellows, for whom the natives would do +anything. + +It was wonderful to see the dexterity with which they would light a +fire and erect a bush-hut. + +They were all cooks; Private Crayton, super-excellent. He had been a +London butcher, and was sharp and intelligent. + +Among them was Hutchings, a huge fellow. He used to prefer going +alone, and never returned empty-handed; more generally hung round +with game,--fifteen or twenty geese, a whole flock of ducks, a native +companion or two as long as himself, two or three kangaroos, and a +handkerchief full of small birds (specimens of natural history), the +only part of him visible being his great red face, besmeared with +perspiration and blood. + +At the time of our visit these extensive swamps were, with the +exception of occasional patches and a few holes, quite dry, and covered +over with a crust of land clay sufficiently strong to bear our weight, +but not that of our horses; the latter were nearly bogged on more than +one occasion. + +It was late the first day when we arrived on our ground, and we had +only time to light fires and pitch our tents on the banks of a stream +when the sun went down. + +While we were preparing for supper, an iguana about two feet long +ran past me, and at the same pace mounted a tree. I pointed out the +disgusting animal to one of our natives. In less time than it takes me +to write, he was caught by the tail, split up the back, spread out +with skewers, roasted, and eaten. + +Long before the break of day we heard that peculiar noise occasioned by +the wings of wild-fowl: then came the low, distant cackle of geese, and +the strange noise of the whistling-duck passing overhead. + +I believe we were all alike in a state of excitement. Daylight came at +last, but with it an excitement of another kind. + +No one experiencing what we did, could ever forget the myriads of +flies. Everything was black with them--the ground, the air, our food. +They clung to our clothes, they stuck to our faces. To rid ourselves of +them, we stripped and rushed into the water, diving to get clear--but +no! they would hover about and swarm on any part of our bodies that +appeared above the surface. + +We were not entirely free for one moment, until we left them and our +sport together. Never before had I fully understood the curse of that +particular plague of Egypt. + +However, by spreading a silk handkerchief over the head, and keeping +it in its place with a light straw hat, we succeeded in protecting +our necks and faces from the thickest of them; and as there was just +sufficient wind to keep the corners of the head-dress flapping about, +we thus partially disappointed our tormentors. + +With the exception of this one drawback, better sport we could not have +had. There was room for any number of guns. + +The geese have one peculiarity--they perch upon trees, so that an +unskilful sportsman may have, in his way, as much amusement as the man +who brings down his geese right and left from a considerable height. + +In spite of the flies we remained several days in nearly the same +locality. Those who disliked them and preferred more violent exercise +found it in the pursuit of kangaroo, only obtained with some pains and +labour, but the tail afforded excellent soup. + +The geese and ducks also we found delicious eating. + +The lagoons, too, were excellent places for sport: they are between 200 +and 300 acres in extent, surrounded by forest trees, and with numerous +little retiring coves about them, in which we might conceal ourselves +and watch for the game; but, except as retreats from the sun, which was +oppressively hot, these hiding-places were not necessary, as the geese +were such geese that they did not understand the use of powder and +shot, and at the same time it seemed they imagined that on the top of +a tree they were safe. If, after a while, one particular set got more +knowing, there were often lagoons with fresh geese at no distance. + +The natives will kill almost every kind of bird with their spears or +throwing-sticks. With water-fowl they are so expert that by stealing +close to them, or lying motionless for a while in one of the patches of +water when the lagoons are dry, they catch their legs with their hands. + +On observing, while shooting, a spot that looked as if it had only just +been quitted by some wild beast, and not feeling quite comfortable, I +questioned a native as to what it meant; he immediately imbedded his +body into the muddy hole, and had I not seen him go in I should have +trodden on him. One of their ways of taking a dirty advantage of the +game! + +On one occasion, while near the entrance to the harbour, a whole tribe +of natives,--men, women, children, and dogs,--without the slightest +hesitation entered the river to swim across, the small children holding +on to the long hair of the mothers. + +Within a few yards I observed a huge alligator asleep in the sun. + +When the dusky tribe were safe across, I awoke my sleepy friend with +the contents of both barrels. He lifted his head and sloped into the +water, being only tickled with my No. 4. + +We destroyed, according to orders, what still remained of the +settlement. The buildings could have been of no use to the natives, and +would probably have been the cause of bloodshed. + +I said one day to “Bob,” an intelligent savage, “Do you intend to take +possession of the Governor’s house after we are gone?” + +He replied with an air of indifference, “I suppose I must.” + +We heard afterwards that Bob had grown so conceited that they were +under the necessity of putting a spear through his body. + +We had another reason for not leaving the houses in anything like a +habitable state: had they looked too comfortable there would have been +an inducement to other parties to try their hands at a settlement on +the same spot--an object that was not considered desirable by the +Government. + +There is no doubt that there should be some port or refuge for disabled +ships or wrecked crews on this coast; and as soon as the corrected +charts of the surveys of that zealous and indefatigable officer, the +late Captain Owen Stanley, shall have been published, the channel by +Torres Straits will be oftener frequented. + +From what I could learn no better place could be found than Cape York +or Port Albany, which have all the advantages Port Essington lacks, and +are not more than a mile out of the way of vessels going from Sydney to +India. + +There were two schooners of forty or fifty tons that I amused myself +in destroying with five-inch shells and a fuse which burns under +water--passing a line under the bow and bringing the ends as far aft as +the main-mast. + +It was easy to attach a fuse and draw the shell close up to the keel. +There was plenty of time to take up a position in my gig, half cable +length astern, before the burning fuse reached the shell, when the +explosion was beautiful. Some of the spars went into the air, while the +bow and stern shook hands as they went below. + +Besides what had been used for domestic purposes, there was a small +mountain of empty casks which made a glorious attempt at fireworks +before we left. + +We left behind at Port Essington a number of cattle; there were already +many quite wild in the bush that had escaped from the settlement at an +earlier period and increased in numbers. + +Several horses were also left. In our excursions I frequently noticed +the footprints, not only of those that had been running wild for years, +but of young foals. + +The garrison, marching down to embark, with the band at their head, did +not excite sufficient interest to draw the blackfellows, except a few +of the softer sex, from their search for what they could find among the +ruins of the buildings. + +During our stay we lost our surgeon, Mr. John Clarke--a man who, by his +kind and gentle manner and his amiable disposition, endeared himself +to us all. He contracted a disease at Hong Kong, from which he never +perfectly recovered. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII + +_MÆANDER_ + + +[Sidenote: 1849. Nov. 30.] + +Completed embarkation of the party composing the late settlement, +consisting of the Commandant, Captain M‘Arthur, Captain Lambrick, +Lieutenant Dunbar, three sergeants, three corporals, twenty-seven +privates, four women, and one kid; also Mr. M‘Arthur, a commissioned +agent, and son to the Commandant. + +We also brought away, besides stores, stock of all kinds--bullocks, +sheep, and goats--guns left by _Pelorus_. + +Starting with only fifty tons of not the best water, we decided on +going to Sydney by the route north of New Guinea, and watering at +either Banda or Amboyna. + +Proceeding to the northward and again crossing the chain of islands +between the Serwatty and Tenimber groups, we were carried by a few +days’ pleasant sailing to the Banda Islands. + +[Sidenote: Banda, Dec.] + +The principal of the group are three in number: Banda-Neura--on which +the town is built--and Gunong Api, a volcanic island close to, and in a +line with it; they have a narrow but deep channel between them. + +Opposite, and to the southward of these two, in a semicircular form, +is the larger island of Banda, having a rather narrow passage at either +end. The space thus enclosed forms the very charming harbour of Banda. + +We were becalmed in the western entrance, and while the current swept +us up mid-channel to the anchorage, we furled sails and hoisted our +boom-boats out; and when we came to, close off the capital, we were in +proper harbour costume. + +The view of the islands from the ship would form a beautiful panorama. + +The picturesque town, which is built on a flat, ought, from the +appearance of Fort Belgica, above and in the rear of it, to be well +protected. + +Gunong Api, a striking feature in the scene, is high and conical in +shape. Smoke issued from the top, but an eruption had not taken place +in the memory of residents. + +From the crater downwards, one-third of the distance, it appeared a +mass of cinders; from that point vegetation commences, increasing +towards its base, where stand many cottages and fishing huts. + +The opposite and more mountainous island surpasses the other two in +beauty of appearance. + +Little rivulets of cool, delicious water run from the high land to +the harbour, from which we watered the ship. The jungle abounds in a +variety of beautiful birds, especially of the pigeon sort. Deer are to +be obtained with a little trouble. Some of the merchants and most of +the proprietors of the hunting plantation have houses on this side. + +We were most hospitably received by the Dutch authorities; nothing that +the island produced, which could be considered a novelty to us, that we +were not presented with. + +It would be difficult to describe the endless variety as well as +beauty of the parrots and lowries that were sent on board; also the +magnificent crown pigeon of Papua, nearly as large as a turkey. We +had as many as eighteen at one time, three pairs of which were twenty +months on board, and some of them are now in the gardens of the +Zoological Society. + +One very pretty compliment was paid to us, which I must not omit to +record. + +A ball was given by the Governor in honour of our visit; and in the +course of the evening, shortly before midnight, the dance suddenly +stopped, glasses were put into our hands, champagne flowed into them, +and the health of Queen Victoria was proposed by His Excellency in an +appropriate speech. + +We swallowed our wine as the clock struck twelve, the band playing our +National Anthem, while a royal salute was firing over our heads from +the fort, during which we were expected to be continually refilling +glasses. + +The following evening we were invited to a dance given on the opposite +shore. + +Our boats were in requisition, and as they passed under the stern of +the frigate at eight o’clock, we took advantage of the opportunity +to return the compliment by saluting the Netherlands flag, which we +hoisted at the yard-arms, giving His Excellency and family three +British cheers. + +A fine bull, named “John,” from Port Essington was much admired. I +presented him to His Excellency, and hope he has not taken possession +of the island. + +Leaving Banda, _en route_ to Pitt’s Straits, we touched at the Ceram +Islands, and under the pilotage of Mr. James M‘Arthur came to, in +certainly not the most secure-looking anchorage. + +[Sidenote: Ceram, Dec. 17.] + +The island of Ceram is the second in size of the Moluccas, having an +estimated area of about 10,000 square miles, but owing to the jealousy +of my friends, the Dutch, it is but imperfectly known. Their object, +until of late years, has been the extirpation of the clove and nutmeg +trees, so as to confine the monopoly to the islands on which they have +established governments. + +The mountains are from six to eight thousand feet in height, sending +down innumerable streams to the sea. The vegetation is luxuriant; the +trees gigantic. + +I have now in my possession a circular slab of wood from the island, +three and a half inches thick, eight and a half feet in diameter. + +The sago palm in particular is more abundant and productive than on any +of the adjoining islands. Cloves and nutmegs grow wild. + +The Malays are cunning and enterprising traffickers, and carry on a +great trade with the Chinese in Bêche-de-Mer. They hoist the Dutch +flag, and while one end of the island claims the protection of Banda, +the other has that of Amboyna. + +Our conchologists added considerably to their collection here. + +We did not remain long at Ceram, and sailed December 18. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 18.] + +There is always more excitement in navigating imperfectly-known seas +than in passing over the more frequented tracks; and on the present +occasion our charts were of little use. + +By anchoring in the evenings, and by keeping a good look-out from +aloft, and leads constantly over the side, we were enabled to thread +our way through strange places. Occasionally canoes came off, as the +tide swept us along. + +The jungle was too dense for us to make out habitations, but their +locality was indicated by the appearance of the cocoanut. I obtained +two fine specimens of the black Bird of Paradise in exchange for an old +musket. + +The rest of their cargoes were composed of fruits, bows and arrows, +parrots, shells, spears and tortoise-shell. + +The natives are well-proportioned, but ugly-looking savages, with a +profusion of hair, frizzed out in an extraordinary manner, which I have +no doubt they thought handsome, but which impressed us with the idea of +a harbour for filth and vermin. + +As there is no anchorage, it is desirable that a ship should get +through Pitt’s Straits in one tide, which feat we just succeeded in +accomplishing by sunset. + +On emerging from the Straits we found the wind still blowing fresh from +the westward with a following swell, and a strong easterly set; and +as our course now lay in that direction, before the following morning +we were many miles on our voyage, and thereby missed seeing a large +portion of the northern coast of New Guinea, a country about which +there appears to be more interesting mystery than any we had visited. + +[Sidenote: New Guinea.] + +The interior of this beautiful island, 900 miles in length, is little +known, and it is supposed not only to abound in minerals, but to +possess fertility of soil. No country is richer in beautiful rare birds +and beasts. + +The little we saw of the natives confirmed what we had heard: that they +are a finer race than any of the islanders. On the southern side, +which is protected by a coral reef, the people appear to live as much +on the water as in their jungle. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 30.] + +Observed a succession of islands; and steered for one that appeared the +easternmost of the Admiralty group. + +On nearing the land just after midnight, and obtaining no soundings +with the deep-sea lead, we sent boats ahead to sound. + +This being observed by the natives, whom we supposed to be fishing, +they started yelling. + +Wind having died away, the tide carried us into about fifty fathoms’ +depth of water, where we held on with the kedge-anchor until daylight. + +If our boats had created a sensation among the savages, great indeed +was their surprise at the appearance of the ship. + +The noise produced by blowing into a shell of the Triton species +was everywhere heard; and having, I doubt not, buried or otherwise +concealed a vast quantity of rubbish, they disappeared themselves; so +that shortly after daylight there was not the vestige of a habitation +nor a human being to be seen. + +It was curious to watch, when they found we took no steps to draw +them out, how carefully and cautiously the savages came from their +hiding-places. + +One emerged from the bush, naked as he was born; we thought at first +that this was his way of proving to us how little we might expect to +get from him, but they were all in the same undress. + +Then another would come forth, spear in hand; soon after, the snout of +a small canoe was seen to protrude from under the bush. + +It would be tedious to enumerate the cunning and cautious “dodges,” +the number of times they retreated and again hid themselves, on +the slightest movement on our parts, before any of them ventured to +approach; before ten o’clock, however, the water, for a cable’s length +round the ship, was covered with grotesque canoes, and still more +odd-looking people. + +A general barter soon commenced, accompanied by a noise and screeching +that was deafening; and reciprocal confidence was soon established. + +These natives are fine-looking men of a dark olive colour, with long +black hair, which they confine in a lump at the back of their head by a +small hoop or band. + +There was one old lady with gray hair, seated under a canopy in her +canoe, who was paddled round the ship several times, and appeared much +interested in what was going on; but she did not venture very near. +Several dialects were attempted between us, but none succeeded. + +Their canoes were of various sizes; a few must have measured seventy or +eighty feet in length, carrying about twenty men each. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIV + +_EN ROUTE_ TO SYDNEY + + +[Sidenote: 1850. Jan. 4.] + +On the morning of January 4 we passed to the northward of Sandwich +Island, and found it thirty-five miles E.S.E. of the position it has on +the chart. + +We were visited along the coast by a succession of canoes. Natives very +similar to those of the Fiji Islands. + +We were puzzled at one time to make out the use of a curiously-formed +piece of wood, about four feet long, shaped like a whale-boat, but +solid. + +From a hole in the centre descended a strong cord of twisted _rôtan_, +forming a running noose, like a hangman’s knot. As I was leaning out +of the cabin window, when there was just sufficient wind to give the +ship steerageway, I observed a shark swimming leisurely along, some ten +fathoms below the surface. + +The natives, from their canoes, observing the monster dropped several +of these oddly-shaped buoys into the water. + +Some of our men fancy they saw them sprinkle a powder in a sort of +magic circle round the buoys, but certain it is that a shark rose, +and was fool enough to shove his head into the noose, when he was +as completely hanged in his own element as ever rogue was from the +gallows. The buoyancy of the float prevented his diving with it. + +Having flourished his tail for a few minutes he was drawn up by his +head on a level with the water and belaboured with the heavy ends of +their paddles, then tumbled bodily into the canoe and hurried on shore +amidst the yelling of the flotilla. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 8.] + +Stood over to the New Ireland coast, and then to the southward, between +that and New Britain. + +We now looked out for a harbour near the southern end of New +Ireland--discovered by and named after a Captain Carteret, where fresh +water was to be obtained. + +It is a place occasionally visited by English and American whalers, as +was proved by a salutation which reached our ears while we were nearing +the shore. + +“What ship that?”--then an oath. “Rum got?” “Give rope.” While +delivering himself of these lessons in English and American, without +waiting for an invitation the native sprang into the main-chains and +thence on to the quarter-deck. + +The manners of these savages were not at all improved by their +intercourse with civilised nations. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +Made the Australian coast, and on the 7th arrived at Port Jackson, +Sydney. + + + + +CHAPTER XLV + +SYDNEY TO HOBART TOWN + + +[Sidenote: 1850. Sydney, Feb. 7.] + +We ran up the beautiful harbour of Port Jackson with the first of the +sea-breeze and came to in Farm Cove, close to the hill on which stands +Government House. + +I can well understand how it was that Captain Cook in the first +instance overlooked the entrance and stood on to the exposed shallow +harbour of Botany Bay: now crowded with sharks, affording sport for gun +or spear. + +There is a fine dock forming on Cockatoo Island, the advantage of which +will be incalculable. + +We found the _Rattlesnake_, Captain Owen Stanley. + +Here I was in the midst of friends--Sir Charles Fitzroy, the Governor, +with Lady Mary--his daughter, “little Mary,” now grown into the tall +and handsome Hon. Mrs. Keith Stewart, mother of a charming family; +also Captain Augustus Fitzroy, A.D.C., and George, Private Secretary; +another brother, Arthur, was at sea. + +To the long and kind nursing of this family I owe my life, but from the +way I was received it would appear that the debt of gratitude was due +from them! + +[Illustration: Mæander _at Sydney._] + +Of that family there are none alive; the father and sons died in +distant parts of the world, far from one another, as will hereafter +appear. I was near each one of them at the end. + +While at luncheon some one remarked on the extraordinary noise caused +by the ringing of a bell, near, or on board the _Mæander_. + +I exclaimed, I hoped not, as that meant fire. + +Looking from the window we saw dense masses of smoke issuing from the +position of the after magazine. A youngster was running to inform me. + +The _Rattlesnake_ had slipped her cables to be out of the way. + +On board I found a scuttle cut through the gun-room deck into the +bread-room to pour water, just big enough for me. I was nearly +suffocated. + +We really had a narrow escape. The fire was subdued. The powder had +been smartly removed, but the wood framing had, as in the case of the +_Magicienne_, been burnt down to the copper-lining. + +[Sidenote: March.] + +During our refit we discovered the head of our mizen-mast to be rotten, +and as there was a spar of same dimension in the _Anson_, convict ship +at Hobart Town, which was originally made for the _Southampton_, I sent +my trusty “First” to apply to the Governor of Van Dieman’s Land for +permission to appropriate it. + +Sir Charles Fitzroy, who was going to make a short tour into the +interior, not only kindly took me with him, but mounted me from his +first-rate stable. + +As His Excellency rode some six stone more than I could boast of, I +never knew what it was to ride a tired horse. + +While we rode, a light van conveyed our commissariat and luggage: +certainly the most agreeable mode of seeing any country. + +While we were absent on this tour, a little more than a fortnight after +our first arrival, the Naval Service sustained a sad loss by the sudden +death of Captain Owen Stanley; it was necessary to despatch a messenger +for my recall, as his papers could not be opened nor his body buried in +the absence of the senior officer. + +We had for many years been acquainted, and I cannot help expressing +here deep regret and sympathy with the many to whom he was so justly +dear. + +Previous to the death of my friend Owen Stanley, I had made the +acquaintance of the distinguished artist who had been cruising with +him, Mr. Oswald Brierly, who had arrived in Australia in 1842, in the +yacht _Wanderer_, the property of Mr. Benjamin Boyd, a man of means, +and of an adventurous turn. + +[Illustration: _Brierly._] + +Brierly was already a student of naval architecture, with a love of the +sea--in fact he began by studying for the service itself. + +Mr. Boyd’s schemes were many, one of them a whaling establishment at +Twofold Bay, which he placed under Brierly’s control. Boyd then betook +himself to the Eastern Archipelago, to collect pearls and pearl-shells, +diamonds, etc., and while exhibiting these on board his yacht to a +respectable-looking pirate his head fell between his legs, and the +yacht disappeared from the scene. + +Brierly had made friends in Sydney and might have done well, but his +heart was on the sea, and he could not resist the offer of a cabin in +the _Rattlesnake_. + +On Owen Stanley’s death he accepted a similar offer from me, until I +could land him in England. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Sailed from Port Jackson on March 20. + +It being the time of the recess, a very agreeable party were enabled to +accompany us to Tasmania. + +Among my guests were Captain Fitzroy, A.D.C., with his brother George, +Private Secretary, master of a scratch pack of hounds, also Mr. Deas +Thompson, whom my friend Colonel Mundy describes as the “Prince of +Colonial Secretaries,” and, judging from the directions I received from +the Governor as to the care and attention to be shown him, he was not +less appreciated at headquarters. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Pleased as we were with the appearance of everything about Sydney, we +were still more so with that of Hobart Town, where we arrived March 25. + +[Illustration: Mæander _at Hobart Town_.] + +As we entered the harbour it was difficult to imagine ourselves in the +Antipodes. English fruits and vegetables exposed for sale. Grapes, +peaches, and nectarines, in the open air, were breaking the trees down. + +As soon as we anchored Bowyear came on board to report. Owing to deaths +and invalids we had many vacancies. + +“What chance of men?” I asked. Pointing to a ship lying near, he said, +“The whole crew have volunteered.” + +It was a female convict ship. + +The doctor who had come out in her told me the most moral were the +Irish, the Scotch the least so. + +In the streets the public carriages, as well as horses, reminded one +of the good old coaching days; indeed the road from Hobart Town to +Launceston is little inferior to that from London to Birmingham. + +[Sidenote: Tasmania, March.] + +The country we passed through, the quickset hedges, turnpikes, +farmhouses, stacks of corn and hay; the roadside inns, at which the +coach changed horses or stopped a few minutes to dine; the good roast +leg of mutton, potatoes _and_ onions, hot and ready; the “coming” +waiter, with bad brandy and worse cigars, all reminded us of home. The +arrival of the _Mæander_ was scarcely known in the country. + +It was the hunting season. The Governor, Sir William Denison, who was +a lover of the sport, kindly mounted me, he himself an invalid and +confined to his bed. My first meet was at Oatlands. + +I was carefully got up in leathers and boots, my pink rather stained +below the pockets. + +Quickset hedges had not reached far into the interior; their +substitutes were the upper branches of large trees, with bark off, +supposed to be impossible for cattle, but not for kangaroo. + +When I arrived, the hounds had gone; horns were blowing. On nearing the +hunters, my inexperienced eye saw an opening which I considered big +enough. + +The tip of a stiff snag caught the Governor’s mare on the shoulder; we +came a stunning fall into the next field, where we lay for, I suppose, +a minute. I was first up, patted, and spoke kindly to the mare; she +then got up. I told her, seeing nothing else, we must go back the same +way we came. She understood. We walked a few yards back for room, +and then turned. She landed safely among the hunting men. Never was +a more sincere and hearty cheer raised. Striking the pipeclay out of +his leathers with his fist, the master, whose name was Long, roared +out, “By Jove! That fellow ought to be King of England.” I soon made +acquaintance with as nice a set as I ever met. + +Rode quietly to the Governor’s stables, mounted my hack, and from +my room wrote the kind Governor the sad news that I had lamed his +favourite mare! + +Besides hounds, there were in the neighbourhood a first-rate pack of +beagles. + +Just before we sailed from Hobart Town, I received a letter which I +much prized--from Mr. William Allison, one of the young men with whom I +had crossed the country. + +His father was a squatter, who had been an officer in the Navy, and had +served his country throughout the eventful period of the late war--one +of the finest specimens I ever saw of an old mariner. + +His son had the management of 40,000 acres, with a flock of 20,000 +sheep, and was deeply interested in the welfare of the colony. + +Speaking of sport, in which he knew I should be interested, he says: +“We had the most glorious run on Saturday I ever saw, or perhaps shall +ever see, with my brother’s beagles. After a run of 12 miles, the +kangaroo, a forester, jumped dead, 10 yards in front of the hounds. We +had no check, and during the last 4 miles we frequently viewed him. +There were only Nat, myself, a younger brother, and a Mr. Difrose in +at the death. Had you been with us, as we have often wished, you would +have been there too. Mrs. Lord sent you the kangaroo, which we hope +reached safely.” + +The Hobart Town races came off during our stay, and afforded good +sport. There was a Governor’s cup to be run for. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 18.] + +The 99th Regiment, whose acquaintance I made in Mauritius days,--the +“Neuf Neufs,” as the French called them,--and ourselves amused the +inhabitants of Hobart Town by a sham fight. + +The soldiers were to occupy some Government ground called “The +Paddocks,” and oppose an invasion. + +As soon as the 99th had taken up their position in a wood to the +rear, the invading force effected a landing, and were driving in the +enemy’s pickets, when they were suddenly outnumbered, and obliged to +retire on their boats, making a gallant stand at the end to cover the +re-embarkation of their artillery. + +Much ammunition was expended, and we were told so large a concourse of +people had never before been seen in Hobart Town. + +[Illustration: _The Sham Fight._] + +[Sidenote: Apr. 20.] + +Before taking our departure, I had the gratification of receiving Sir +William Denison on board. Saluted him, and made sail down the river as +far as the “Iron Pot,” Derwent River, and then worked back again. Hove +to off the anchorage, and landed His Excellency; and having collected +our Sydney contingent, sailed for that port. + + + + +[Illustration: Mæander _between Sydney Heads_.] + +CHAPTER XLVI + +SYDNEY + + +[Sidenote: 1850. April 26.] + +Made at noon the south head of Botany Bay. + +3 P.M.--Between the heads entering Port Jackson. While running up, +exchanged numbers with the _Havannah_, 20, Captain J. E. Erskine, and +the _Rattlesnake_. + +Came to in Farm Cove; making a running moor. I now heard of the death +of my dear father. + +My old friend Erskine was in charge of the Australian station, and +naturally felt jealous of the intrusion of a captain who was his senior. + +It was far from me to interfere, but the death of poor Owen Stanley +obliged me to open the directions of the Hydrographical Office before +he could be buried. In fact, I was recalled from a tour I was enjoying +with Sir Charles Fitzroy. + +The Hydrographical instructions were simple enough, stating, in +case of the death of the captain, or any other, the officer who was +to succeed. Acting upon them, I gave Lieutenant Yule orders to take +command of the _Rattlesnake_. This offended Erskine; who informed me +that, on my departure for the Pacific, he would supersede my acting +order. + +[Sidenote: May 2.] + +The _Rattlesnake’s_ time was up, so I gave her the order to return to +England, and remained in harbour long enough to give her twenty-four +hours’ start. She sailed May 2. + +[Illustration: _The_ Rattlesnake] + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +We left Port Jackson in continuation of our route for Port Nicholson +and Auckland; but, the wind heading, we stood for Norfolk Island, which +we made on the evening of May 7; and hove to. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Next morning some of the officers started in a whale-boat that had +been sent by the Governor. There being an awkward sea running, they +capsized off the end of the rickety pier. Owing to precautions taken +and the activity of convicts, no lives lost. Unaware of this accident, +I followed with young Leicester in the gig, and, waiting for an +auspicious moment, we landed safely. + +From outside, Norfolk Island has the appearance of a lonely rock, but +is very different on shore. + +Mr. Price, the Governor, kindly took us a charming ride to Mount Pitt, +and showed us the military barracks, which are capable of holding a +regiment. + +The convict houses are three storeys high, fitted for all sorts and +conditions of men; some it was necessary to confine in huge iron cages. +Their language, addressed to us strangers, was uncommon strong! There +were 115 of these ruffians separately confined. I saw three chapels, +Protestant and Catholic. Every trade was encouraged: shoes, boots, +coats, and trousers that would have caused envy in the bosoms of Hoby +and Stultz. I was glad when the Governor took us to higher land and +change of scene. + +We were soon passing through orange and lemon groves and wooded scenery. + +The fir peculiar to the island was conspicuous. The india-rubber tree +was in full force. Some of the officers from the ship had joined us. +The youngsters soon found out that, by striking the drooping plant with +a stick, the juice ran out like cream, which no marine servant could +extract from a uniform cloth jacket. To spoil this fun the Governor +thought it advisable, unless we liked to remain the night, that we +should be getting down to the boats. The same whaler took them off. I +preferred the gig in which we had landed. + +Every precaution was taken by the Governor and his officers in case of +a capsize. In addition to convicts in cork-jackets, there were others +with large round corks netted over with long cords attached, that could +be thrown a great distance. + +In the gig, in addition to young Leicester Keppel, I had some +fir-plants of the island, and other odds and ends. Our boat bow was +scarcely abreast of the pier head, when a roller lifted the bow into +the air and turned over on us. + +The only precaution I had taken was to get rid of my uniform jacket. I +believe a capsize is always great fun for the convicts. On my asking to +whom I was indebted for my life, a convict informed me that his name +was Emerson, and that he had been in the service of my father. + +[Illustration: _Rescue by Convicts. Norfolk Island._] + +I found later that Emerson had been employed at Newmarket, and having +“done his horses down,” was taking a stroll in the evening when he +came across an old gentleman who did not seem to know his way, and +“borrowed his watch.” I had three sovereigns in my pocket, and offered +them to him, but he said they were no more use to him than the same +number of buttons! I mentioned his case to the Governor, who would see +to it. + +Norfolk Island was, in 1787, colonized by Captain Philip King, R.N., by +free settlers and prisoners from New South Wales. In 1809 a combined, +but unsuccessful attempt was made by the settlers, the military, and +the prisoners, to take possession of the island. + +Our second attempt to reach the ship was successful. At sunset filled, +and made sail. + +[Sidenote: May 11.] + +If my readers are sick of the sea, or sea-sick, I advise them to skip +the journal until the 19th of June. + +Since leaving Norfolk Island, the wind, with a strong lee set, +prevented our reaching Auckland by the northern route. + +[Sidenote: May 19.] + +We entered Cook’s Straits, and in the evening came to off Port +Nicholson. + +[Sidenote: May 20.] + +10 A.M.--Weighed and attempted to work up under double-reefed topsails, +with topgallant sails over, but were obliged to come to again with +both bower-anchors between Barrett reef and the eastern shore in the +afternoon. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Wind lulled, weighed, ran up, and came to in Lampton Harbour. Found our +fore-yard sprung. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +At noon fired a royal salute in commemoration of Her Majesty’s Birthday. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Weighed and made sail, running down the harbour. Before, however, we +could get clear of Pencarrow Head, we were met by a strong southerly +breeze; reefed topsails, and worked out by sunset. + +The breeze outside freshened to a gale, against which we worked all +night! + +[Sidenote: New Zealand, May 26.] + +At daylight found ourselves off Cape Porirua; bore up. At 10.30 A.M. +came to with both bower-anchors in 23 fathoms, off Kapiti Island. The +anchorage none of the best, but any port in such a storm as that we had +just taken shelter from. + +[Sidenote: May 28.] + +Weighed at 5 A.M. to a light N.E. wind, and ran along the land. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +Came to in 7 fathoms in Waitemata Harbour. + +Port Nicholson and Auckland are both splendid harbours. + +Much to be done, which British capital and enterprise will achieve. At +present there is neither watering nor landing-place. As a proof of the +latter, the port captain at Auckland visited the ship in a pair of long +jack boots--his usual costume! These colonies are rapidly rising into +importance. + +[Sidenote: June 8.] + +Weighed and stood out of the harbour. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Worked into the Bay of Islands. Came to in Kororareka Bay. Did not find +the facility we hoped for in obtaining spars. + +The town contains but few inhabitants, and was reduced to half its +former size, by shot-holes in the church and other buildings, made +during the war with the brave Heki. The bay, however, deserves all the +praise that has been bestowed upon it. + +[Sidenote: June 10.] + +Weighed at 8 P.M., made sail, and ran out of the bay. + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +Breeze freshened into a northerly gale, which, veering round to N.E., +blew hard and reduced us to a close-reefed main topsail. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +First cutter washed away. More moderate towards afternoon. + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +Made the land at daylight; not an inviting coast for a stranger. + +Fired a signal gun and got a native pilot. + +[Illustration: _A Coral Island._] + +Noon.--Came to in 13 fathoms off the capital of Tonga Tabu, Malanga. +The coast is bound by a coral reef about 200 yards in width, inside +which boats will float at low water, when landing is disagreeable. + +[Illustration: _A Stockade._] + +The island is well managed by an English missionary, who had King +George well under control. + +In the afternoon His Majesty came on board, and was received and +entertained with due honours. + +He is a Christian and intelligent, but rather too prejudiced against +the French for his own interests. The King once got into a scrape. +Drifting about in his canoe on a Sunday, he observed a huge turtle +floating in the warmth of the sun. + +His Majesty could not resist the temptation, but quitting his canoe, +swam carefully up and grasped the hind-fins of the turtle; which, +with so much stern weight, could not dive, but was able to make rapid +headway with his fore-fins, and towed His Majesty a good mile before he +let go. The King got severely reprimanded for his desecration of the +Sabbath. + +I visited the two schools, crowded with promising children of both +sexes. Tonga Tabu is a fertile island with an industrious population. + +[Sidenote: June 22.] + +Weighed. It was curious navigation between the coral reefs. Suddenly, +while weighing, a flaw of wind veered and caused our stern to touch the +edge of a coral bank, with 80 fathoms under our chains. She was easily +backed off. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +We started with a fair wind, which turned into a gale. + +[Illustration: Mæander _in a Gale_.] + +We had not many pets, but the purser had a gray parrot, the right +African sort, who would not talk or be taught, and was voted a +nuisance. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +During one of our frequent squalls, in a lee lurch, everything was +capsized and sent to the scuppers, some of us sent off our legs, +decanters, tumblers, lamps, the parrot’s cage, etc. In the midst of +broken crockery and glass, a voice was calling out “Abaft there!” “A +glass of grog!” It was this much-abused parrot! + +Ship under close-reefed topsails, main trysail, and fore-staysail. +Weather soon moderated. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +We were now drawing towards Tahiti, carrying a mail from Sydney. + +[Illustration: _Point Venus, Tahiti._] + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +Late in the afternoon a sail was reported, which we made out, from the +round sort of baskets at the fore- and main-topmast-heads, to be a +whaler; she had boats in the water. We hove to. She hoisted American +colours: her captain came on board--a respectable-looking old salt, +with gray hair. + +Invited him to my cabin, where, with accompaniments of Manila cheroots +and Jamaica rum, we had an agreeable chat. + +On his leaving, I presented him with a box of cheroots, saying we had +been six months without European news. + +On which he “guessed” that I must be aware of the war between France +and England. + +He evidently noticed my astonishment, and added that the French Admiral +was at sea looking for the English fleet. + +We shook hands and so parted. It was then too dark to see the name of +his ship. We made sail. + +I invited the First Lieutenant to consult on the news we had received. +It was decided that we would load every gun with round shot, grape, and +canister. + +[Illustration: _Tahiti Harbour._] + +[Sidenote: July 9.] + +Soon after daylight we were off the harbour, and at about seven the +English pilot we had heard of, but accompanied by a French officer, +undertook the steerage. + +I was so interested at the navigation between coral banks, the beauty +of the harbour, the merchant ships, two fine frigates, with sundry +small craft, that I quite forgot about the guns. + +[Illustration: _Bowyear._] + +Had my gig manned, and directed Bowyear first to salute the Admiral’s +flag, and when he saw me leaving to salute the Governor and French flag. + +He replied: “You forget, sir, that we have round shot, grape, and +canister in every gun. I have nothing but this scoop to draw them, nor +can we get outside against the sea-breeze to empty them. I could not +fire a pistol here without hitting some one.” + +I had, however, to call on the Governor. On getting alongside the +flagship, an officer informed me that I should find him at the +Government House, + +On landing I was received by His Excellency in full dress, a guard of +honour with band playing our National Air, and all officers attending. +I never felt so guilty or so small. + +The Governor, M. Bonard, Capitaine de Vaisseau and Commodore, who +included in his person that of Governor and Naval Commander-in-Chief, +kindly put his arm in mine and led me away into his house, where he +said luncheon would be getting cold. + +[Illustration: _Eimeo._] + +They all spoke or understood English as well as myself. The luncheon +was excellent, wine to match, and I was hungry. + +After a while the Governor drew his chair near to mine, and, without +alluding to my not having fired the usual salutes, stated that they +were six months without news from Europe; and that if ever so small a +yacht or strange fishing-vessel hove in sight, it caused excitement. +Telescopes were brought to bear, and he said, “You may imagine the +appearance of a British frigate----” + +[Illustration: _Inland Scenery._] + +Before I could commence my explanation he added, “Every five minutes +I am receiving reports of the withdrawal of round shot, grape, and +canister from every gun in your frigate.” + +I then explained my interview with the master of the American whaler. + +Every one of the gallant French captains rose without a moment’s +hesitation, shook me by the hand, expressing a hope that under similar +circumstances their officers would have done the same! + +In due time the salutes were fired and returned, and we mixed as one +family. I have ever found French naval officers perfect gentlemen. + +Monsieur Gizholme, Lieutenant commanding the _Cocyte_ steamer, managed +everything: balls, dinners, dances, picnics in a lovely and interesting +country. Brierly meanwhile happy with his sketch-book. + +[Sidenote: Tahiti.] + +Among guests I had the honour of entertaining Queen Pomare. She had +been, and appeared very happy, and was treated with every kindness and +attention. + +Monsieur D. P. Nicolai, commanding the troops, added considerably to my +collection of shells. + +I had the pleasure of renewing acquaintance in the Baltic with +Commodore Bonard, with Gizholme, and other officers. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +Having come from the west, owing to our difference in longitude, found +I had a day to spare, which was a good excuse for lingering in Tahiti, +therefore we gave ourselves a second “Thursday, July 18.” + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +Pilot on board, weighed. Having saluted the French flag and that of +Commodore Bonard, stood over for the island of Guimo. Came to in 19 +fathoms in Opuum Harbour, where we have a depot of coals wasting for +want of covering. This is likewise a beautiful and well-sheltered +harbour with good fresh water easily obtained. + +[Sidenote: July 23.] + +Weighed at daylight; ran out of harbour. Worked over to Papeete to land +our pilot and pick up their mail. 10 P.M.--Boat returned filled, and +made sail to the northward of the island. + +[Sidenote: Valparaiso, Aug. 23.] + +After a month’s light and variable winds, saluted the flag of +Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, flying on board _Inconstant_, 36, Captain +John Shepherd. + +We were towed into the anchorage by the boats of French and English +men-of-war. + +There were besides _Driver_, steam sloop, 6, Commander C. Johnson; +_Champion_, 14, Commander John Hayes. + +[Illustration: _A Coral Atoll._] + +On my reporting myself to the Commander-in-Chief, he informed me he had +two reprimands from the Admiralty--one for the affair at Macao, and the +other for interfering with the senior officer on the Australian Station. + +I applied, in proper form, through my Admiral, to the Board of +Admiralty for two courts-martial. + +The Admiral informed me that the _Inconstant_ had a freight on board +and was homeward bound, but that I being senior, and _Mæander_ longer +in commission, might take freight out of _Inconstant_ and so go home, +or remain on the station for another year and take the chance of +picking up a freight myself. + +It took me but a few minutes to decide, knowing, too, that such +arrangement would exactly suit Captain Shepherd, officers, and men of +both ships as well as friend Brierly. + +The Admiral’s was a charming establishment. Besides Mrs. Phipps Hornby, +and her sister Mrs. Parker, there were three daughters. Their son, +Geoffrey, was Flag-Lieutenant. + +They were in the house lately vacated by the Admiral’s predecessor, Sir +George Seymour, where they were sure to find good stabling if nothing +else. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 24.] + +This morning our Chargé d’Affaires, Mr. William Pitt Adams, arrived +from Lima, bringing me a letter of thanks from Lord Palmerston for the +prompt way in which I had acted at Macao. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +Joined royal salute in commemoration of the Prince Consort’s birth. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +At sunset hoisted Admiral’s flag, _Inconstant_ having sailed for +England. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 3.] + +Matthew Ash, captain of mizen-top, while on leave was murdered by one +of the crew of a Chilian frigate, who was subsequently apprehended. + +Ship caulking inside and out, not before it was needed. + +Watered ship from the luxury of a tank. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 13.] + +_Asia_, 84, Captain Robert F. Stopford, arrived, to whom was +transferred the Admiral’s flag. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 18.] + +Fired royal salute in commemoration of Chilian Independence. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 19.] + +Kindly invited to join Admiral’s party to witness a rancho: which means +to drive wild cattle over a space of eighty to a hundred square miles +into a strong enclosure. + +Our preparations were amusing, especially to our pretty lady +companions, who looked as if they had never been out of the saddle. + +[Illustration: Mæander _at Valparaiso_.] + +We started after luncheon for our 10-mile ride to Pitama. + +The accommodation afforded by our ranchero host was a long low +building, having a floor, but no ceiling, mere wooden truckle-beds to +sleep on. + +The Admiral and family took possession of one end, we, the other: +within hail, but outside talking distance. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +We were up early, but the wild cattle were already in a disturbed +state: bulls and pigs, horses and cows rushing across each other. The +rancheros or drivers had been out a week. The ground was rough and +varied, but nothing stopped our fair riders. + +It was dusk before half the cattle within the outer ranchero could be +secured. Torches added to the wildness of the scene. + +The unbroken horses that had been captured by the young rancheros, and +ridden when their own knocked up, began to lie down. + +The ladies of our party, who had ridden the whole day, appeared as +fresh as their brother; but the Admiral, who was as hard as nails, +himself made the signal to return home. + +I always regarded him with admiration and respect. He had commanded the +_Volage_ in our Norfolk hero’s, Sir William Hoste’s, frigate action off +Lissa. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Weighed from Valparaiso Roads on our northern cruise. + +Later I saw _Driver_ standing out. She was a full-rigged ship and what +our American friends called a “side wheeler.” Her captain was under the +delusion he could beat us sailing, but our three topsails only were +sufficient to convince him of his mistake. + +[Sidenote: Coquimbo, Sept. 27.] + +Came to in Coquimbo Bay. + +[Illustration: _Coquimbo._] + +While cruising in my gig I observed an ancient-looking church, and +landed to inspect it. + +Like other Catholic churches it had the usual images; but I noticed +over a side door a white marble slab, on which was engraved: “En el +año 1578 esta iglesia ha sido profanado par el pirata ingles Francisco +Draki.” + +Sailed 28th. + +[Sidenote: Callao, Oct. 5.] + +Arrived in Callao Roads. Found United States _Vandalia_, also _Naiad_ +with stores and topgallant-yards across. + +Saluted Peruvian flag with twenty-one guns. + +Much to the distress of Commander William Browne I had directions to +convert the once beautiful frigate _Naiad_ into a store-ship. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +Weighed and made sail. Observed French Commodore Fourichon standing for +Callao. + +A fresh south-easter carried us across the Equator in 113° west, after +which we had a long and tedious voyage. + +[Sidenote: San Blaas, Nov. 12.] + +At daylight made Piedra Blanca de Tierre: a remarkable white rock, some +twelve miles from the coast, appearing in the distance like a large +ship. At noon came to in San Blaas Roads. Purchased cedar planks for +making treasure boxes. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 17.] + +Came to in Mazatlan Harbour. Saluted the Mexican flag with twenty-one +guns. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Saluted Mr. Charles Bankhead, English Minister, on his visiting the +ship. + +[Sidenote: Mazatlan.] + +An English brig, the _Gazelle_, arrived at Mazatlan with a number of +passengers from San Francisco, several of whom died on the passage from +dysentery and other diseases contracted before embarking. The brig +touched at Cape St. Lucas, where many of them landed and refused to +return on board. The _Gazelle_ sailed; they came round in a boat a +few days afterwards. + +At the instigation of well-known characters calling themselves +“lawyers,” and forming part of the Civil Courts of Justice, the +passengers lodged a complaint against the Master of the _Gazelle_ for +ill-treatment, and his having thereby been the cause of deaths on board. + +At the request of the Captain of the Port I detained the _Gazelle_ and +communicated with our Consul, who, on investigation, decided there were +no grounds for complaint; but, on the contrary, they had received such +treatment as I should have expected, knowing the high character of Mr. +Wood, the master, whom I had met in India. + +At a later date I received information to the effect that these +“gentlemen lawyers,” Gaxiola and Cainow, had made an offer to the +supercargo of the _Gazelle_, whom they met on shore, that they would +cancel the proceedings against his ship for six hundred dollars. + +I also heard that a like sum had been offered by them to the Captain +of the _Gulnare_, an American brig under almost similar circumstances, +but the Master not having the money, the brig now lies rotting in the +harbour. I allowed the _Gazelle_ to proceed to sea, offering myself to +answer any charges preferred against the Captain. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26, Mazatlan.] + +The Governor of Mazatlan visited the ship and was saluted. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 27.] + +Foreign Consuls and party were entertained on board. Saluted them on +leaving. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +Sent launch in charge of Lieutenant Oldfield to communicate with +merchants at Guyamas. The pinnace in charge of C. H. Johnstone, mid, +left for San Blaas. At Mazatlan we moored head and stern on account of +tides, with no room to swing. Ciervo Island, close by, is a convenient +place, on which we repaired our boats and landed the blacksmith’s +forge, the men working under the eye of the officers on board. The +centre of the island was tall bush, so that the opposite side could not +be seen except from the masthead. + +[Illustration: _Sharks at Mazatlan._] + +[Sidenote: Dec. 22.] + +Departed this life George Fuller, A.B. He had been long lingering, and +had an extraordinary twist in his backbone. He was buried at the back +of the island with due honours. I was kindly entertained and had a room +on shore, but by day was much away in the gig. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 24.] + +In the morning the First Lieutenant found the boatswain missing, and, +later, the doctor. He began to smell a rat, but thought it advisable to +say nothing. The dingey too was missing. On my coming on board Bowyear +told me the surgeon, John Crawford, on hearing from his assistant of +the death and burial of the poor fellow, whose backbone he coveted, +was so excited that Bowyear stated that the ship’s company would not +like to have the body disturbed; but the doctor was pertinacious, +promising that he could manage it without anybody knowing. At midnight +he and the boatswain landed in the dingey and hauled the small boat up +on the beach. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +When I got on board, at muster, nothing had been seen of either the +dingey or the boatswain. + +At noon an American schooner, sailing near us with a cargo of sheep, +hailed. Stating he “guessed” he had picked up one of our boats at +sea, and casting off the painter, we received our dingey. Doctor and +boatswain hid till midnight and got on board unseen. + +The lagoons which succeed one another for several miles in a line with +the coast to the northward were full of wild game. It is difficult to +imagine prettier shooting. The water is not above three or four feet +deep, and sufficiently wide to enable a gun on each side to drive +the game. Care should be taken to drop your birds on the land, as +alligators are in possession of the water. + +One of the midshipmen and myself bagged fifty-two couple of ducks of +various sorts in an afternoon. + +Snipe are also plentiful. To get at the river there is an extensive bar +to cross, which troubled our boats till they got used to it. + + + + +CHAPTER XLVII + +_MÆANDER_ + + +[Sidenote: 1851. Mazatlan, Jan. 1.] + +Weighed and made sail, running to the southward to meet the pinnace, +expected from San Blaas with treasure. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 2.] + +Came to at the entrance to the Chamatla River. A nasty bar, impassable +at low water; heavy surf breaks along the coast. Two of our boats were +swamped in attempting to land. Saved them with loss of anchors only. +Good wild shooting is to be had by ascending the river in canoes. On +the banks, near the entrance, were hundreds of alligators. Deer in +plenty were seen on the opposite side of a narrow lagoon which runs +parallel with the beach. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Pinnace returned. Weighed following day. Came to in Mazatlan Harbour. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 6.] + +Having made arrangements for leaving pinnace and barge in charge of Mr. +May, master, took pilot on board. Weighed at 5 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +Came to in Guyamas Harbour. A convenient port for target practice. +Distance from the shore from eight hundred to a thousand yards; +the shot easily recovered. The weather is generally fine. We were +enabled to send boats to distant points to assist the merchants; the +men enjoyed the change. Bowyear, the First, was equally contented +to remain, and, by drill and various exercises, keep the remaining +crew happy and contented. Among the youngsters, a universal favourite +was a son of Lord Ellesmere, now about sixteen years of age. In a +letter before leaving England his father wrote: “It is wrong to have a +favourite in a family, but you take with you the Benjamin of my flock.” + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +In the evening, returning on board, I noticed the sad looks of officers +as well as men. Bowyear informed me I should find young Egerton laid +in my cabin badly wounded. The poor boy breathed, but knew me not. I +remained until the end, which came only too soon. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Among our friends at Guyamas was the liberal Catholic Priest, who +appeared to rule supreme. He had a portion of the churchyard, half a +mile from the landing-place, selected for the grave of our poor young +shipmate, who was there buried with full military honours--a firing +party of marines, band playing that impressive Dead March in “Saul,” +which brought tears from many lookers-on. The remains were followed +by the merchants and authorities of the place. Ships in port lowered +colours. + +[Illustration: _The Cemetery at Guyamas._] + +I was before this too sad to clearly state cause of accident. I +mentioned that the First Lieutenant was well pleased with the position +of our anchorage, as the open spaces, as well as position of land +and rocks, afforded good opportunities for target practice, as well +as for musket drill in boats. On the present sad occasion a mark had +been whitewashed on the face of a huge rock; the boats passing dropped +alternate oars and took shots. We were short of officers: the boatswain +was in the stern-sheets, with the young mid in charge. In unnecessary +haste, the musket of one of the crew went off, with the sad result. + +Guyamas is worse off than Mazatlan for water; all the drinking water +comes in skins and small casks on the backs of mules and donkeys from +wells dug a couple of miles out of the town in the Hermosilla Road. +A sufficient supply was so brought down to the end of the pier at a +charge of $150 per ton. The country abounds with large hares, difficult +to shoot, except on horseback, within eighty yards, so they are seldom +killed except with ball--a pretty amusement for good rifle shots. Deer +and wild-fowl are plentiful, but in different directions. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 4.] + +We landed our whole force with field-pieces for a sham fight. The +spot selected was adapted for the purpose, having a sufficient level, +besides low brushwood and elevated rocky ground for manœuvring. We had +erected stones to represent a circular fort on an eminence, in which +four brass boat guns were mounted, and a piratical flag hoisted to +represent the enemy. + +The field battery having been placed in position, the force advanced +to the assault, but, being repulsed, they divided, and by circuitous +marches on each side gained some high ground in rear of, and commanding +the fort, when the field battery, a little in advance of its original +position, again opened fire. The fort was carried, the Mexican flag +hoisted; the band played their National Air, and the army, as well as +spectators, cheered, consisting of the whole population of Guyamas. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 15] + +Being spring tides, weighed and ran out into deeper water. Came to +in five fathoms off the islands of Paxaros. During our stay here we +received about $400,000, none of which paid Custom dues. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 17.] + +1 P.M.--The Governor of Guyamas having come on board, weighed. +Shortened sail on passing the cave on Vincente Point, where a number of +our Guyamas friends, particularly ladies, had assembled to wave last +adieus. Mutual regrets at parting. Saluted the Governor on his quitting +the ship. Cheered from the rigging and made sail. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 23.] + +Came to off San Blaas for water, which is obtained by rolling casks +about 400 yards from the beach to a river, in which the inhabitants of +San Blaas (both sexes) wash themselves and clothes. The water, however, +is better than that at Mazatlan or Guyamas. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 28.] + +_Champion_, 14, Commander John M. Hayes, arrived from Mazatlan. +Supplied her with stores and provisions. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +Weighed, standing for Piedra de Mer, off which we were to pick up our +boats. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 2.] + +At noon the pinnace and cutter came alongside with treasure. Sailed, +having on board $868,927; with the exception of the _Inconstant’s_, the +smallest shipment that had been made from this coast. More than three +months had elapsed since the boats and officers had all been on board +together. The long sea cruise before us comes in well to recover from +the naturally demoralising effects of the frequently prolonged absence +of boats from ship. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Twenty minutes before midnight exercised at general quarters; fired the +first gun in two minutes and forty-five seconds from the beating of the +drum. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +After evening quarters exercised shifting topsails. Fresh northerly +breezes carried us across the equator, giving us fair prospects of a +good passage to Valparaiso. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +Midnight.--Beat to quarters; first gun fired in three minutes and a +half. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +After evening quarters shifted topsail-yards. + +[Sidenote: April 1.] + +Commenced the new scale of provisions according to Admiralty circular, +a step towards improving the condition and discipline of the seamen. + +[Sidenote: April 8.] + +Observed a stranger we had seen two days previously was still gaining. +Tacked to try rate of sailing. Trimmed ship; re-set sails and +communicated by signal with her, the _Balmoral_ of Aberdeen, from San +Francisco, bound to Valparaiso. Passed to leeward, tacked in her wake +and left her in an extraordinary manner, proving how much might be +gained in a long voyage by trimming, and a little attention to the set +of sails. By sunset she was hull down. + +[Sidenote: April 21.] + +Noon.--Came to in Valparaiso Bay. Found here the United States +frigate _Raritan_, and Russian corvette _Oambylea_. Rear-Admiral +Fairfax-Morseby relieves Rear-Admiral Phipps Hornby, who had sailed on +a cruise. + +[Sidenote: April 22.] + +Sent boats to tow the Russian corvette to sea. Taking in water and +provisions preparatory to sailing for England. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +4 A.M.--Weighed and made sail. Dark morning, lee shore. Vessels at +anchor; both sides in thirty-six fathoms, a long heave up and down. Got +the first of a northerly wind. Got up stump topgallant masts. Carried +our breeze as far as 43° south. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Exchanged numbers with the _Amphitrite_, 24, Captain Charles Frederick +from England. Frederick strongly advised us not to attempt Straits of +Magellan. Uneasy motion of the ship made havoc among our live stock; +obliged to throw several bullocks overboard. + +[Sidenote: May 10.] + +After a calm got a light northerly wind. Shaped a course for Cape +Pillar, intending to run through the Straits. As the breeze freshened +the weather came on thick and dirty. + +[Sidenote: Straits of Magellan, May 13.] + +Running for the land; fresh breeze, hazy weather. 10.40 A.M.--Observed +rocks N.N.E. 11.10.--Another break in the mist showed us land ahead. +Reefed topsails. 1 P.M.--Passed Cape Pillar. 2.30.--Came to in Mercy +Harbour. + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +2.15 P.M.--Entered Long Reach. Passed Half Port Bay. 4.50.--Came to in +seven and a half fathoms, Playa Parda Harbour. + +[Sidenote: May 15.] + +Weighed and made sail. 2 P.M.--Came to in Fortescue Bay. Found an +American brig, and an English barque _Caspar_ and brig _Isabella +Thompson_ dismasted in Port Gallant. A snug and beautiful harbour. +Supplied the brig with one jib-boom for a main-mast, and the barque +with our stream chain. + +[Sidenote: May 16.] + +4.20 A.M.--Weighed. 8.45.--Rounded Cape Froward. On passing San Nicolas +Bay observed a Chilian man-of-war brig, and American and Chilian ships +at anchor. Came to at 1 P.M. in Port Famine. + +[Sidenote: Port Famine, May 17.] + +4 A.M.--Weighed. 11.15.--Came to in seventeen fathoms off the +settlement to the southward of Sandy Point. Saluted the Chilian flag. +This penal settlement, under its present Governor, Meños, a captain +in the Chilian Navy, is situated between the prairie, on which cattle +thrive, and the wooded country, containing the necessary material for +building, is likely to become a large and useful colony. It has rich +soil, an agreeable, bracing climate, and a coal-mine within a few +miles, inland, from which a stream of good water runs into the sea +close to the settlement. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +Weighed, and worked to windward. Came to at 11.10 in Loreda Bay. + +[Sidenote: 1851. May 19.] + +Weighed to run between Elizabeth and Magdalene Islands; got through, +but before we could get into Royal Roads to anchor the flood-tide set +us back. 12.30.--Brought up in eight fathoms off N.E. end of Elizabeth +Island. + +[Sidenote: May 20.] + +Weighed, and worked up against N.E. wind to the entrance of the second +narrows. Wind heading, worked into Gregory Bay. Came to at 11.45. + +[Illustration: _In the Straits of Magellan._] + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Landed parties to try for guanacoes and ostriches, stated in the chart +to abound here. A few birds were seen in the distance, as well as +animals. + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +Weighed 5 A.M., and ran towards the entrance of the first narrows, +passing to the northward of the Triton Bank. Succeeded, with the +assistance of a strong tide, in getting through, making two tacks only +towards the eastermost end. 10.30.--Trimmed and set studding-sails. +3.40.--Rounded Dungeness Point. + +4.30.--Taken aback. Came to in fourteen fathoms off Dungeness Point. + +[Sidenote: May 23.] + +7.15--Weighed and made sail on port tack. 9.--Cape Virgin, W by S. ½ S. +10.--Stowed anchors. + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +Heavy swell from N.E. + +[Sidenote: May 25.] + +Light northerly winds; veered round to S.W. and blew. This was the +heaviest gale I ever experienced: wind constantly shifting, the sea had +no time to get up. Our close-reefed main topsail was blown to ribbons, +and a close-reefed foresail was blown out of the bolt ropes. That +part secured to the yard by reef points was blown into knots as big +as a Norfolk turnip, and so hard that neither chisel nor nails could +be driven into it. Of the fore staysail nothing remained. Our quarter +galleries and half-ports were stove in. + +Quarter-deck boats had been well secured, but the one on the starboard +side had been so encrusted with fibres of the mizen trysail as to have +the appearance of whitewash, which was only removed by three-cornered +iron scrapers. + +As already stated, the sea had no time to rise to any considerable +height. At daylight the gale moderated. We set a spare fore topsail, +reefed, as a foresail, bent and set main staysail. + +[Sidenote: May 29.] + +Breeze moderated and changed to the northward. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +More bad weather. Split the improvised foresail. + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +Wind more moderate. Bent proper foresail and made sail, wind veering +round to S.W. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Shifted topgallant masts from stump to regulation. Standing for Cape +Frio, opened the entrance of Rio Janeiro. Observed a barque being towed +out by a Brazilian steam tug. + +Being becalmed the _Plumper_ towed us into our anchorage. Met the +_Cormorant_, steam sloop, Captain Herbert Schomberg, coming out; he +having received information from the Consul that the tug _Satrap_ was +assisting a slaver. + +The _Plumper_, having towed us to a berth, joined in the chase. +_Cormorant_ fired into the tug, and knocked away her funnel; on being +boarded fifteen slaves were found secreted under hatches, and part of a +slaver’s cargo. + +The tug was anchored and placed under a guard. The barque got away, but +_Plumper_ put a shot into her. The Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral +Barrington Reynolds, was absent at Monte Video. + +Found here _Tweed_, sloop, 18, Commander Lord Francis Russell. She had +been my first ship: then a 28-gun donkey frigate! + +There was also a heavy-looking French frigate _Penelope_. Also two +handsome Spanish corvettes, _Esmeralda_ and _Arragon_, said to have +been built on White’s lines, the United States corvette _Dale_, and a +Dutch brig. Saluted the Brazilian flag, 21 guns. + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +4.30 A.M.--Weighed and ran out of the harbour with a light land breeze. + +[Sidenote: July 5.] + +Gave the ship her last coat of paint, and remounted carronades; neither +useful nor ornamental. + +[Sidenote: July 28.] + +Arrived at Spithead. Saluted the flag of Admiral the Hon. Sir T. +Bladen-Capel, K.C.B. The steam tender _Sprightly_ came off for our +freight, $900,000, consigned to my friend E. Casher, for transhipment +to the Bank of England. At sunset weighed for Chatham. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +Anchored at Sheerness. Saluted flag of Vice-Admiral the Hon. Josceline +Percy. Glad to again renew an acquaintance which commenced when I +commanded _Childers_ in Mediterranean and was renewed at the Cape in +the _Dido_, when Sir Josceline was Commander-in-Chief. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Paying off commencing. Sad to think out of 360 fine fellows, only 150 +are left! + + + + +CHAPTER XLVIII + +AT HOME + + +[Sidenote: 1851. Aug. 7.] + +While _Mæander_ was dismantling, I attended the wedding of my nephew, +Edward Coke, and Miss Agar-Ellis, daughter of Lord Dover, whose +house was close to the Admiralty, and into which I walked after the +breakfast, wearing my wedding favour. + +I was shown into the First Sea Lord’s room, with whom I had been on +terms of intimacy some years. + +Before many minutes the door was thrown open, and Sir Francis Beaufort, +head of the Hydrographical Department, attended by his staff, addressed +me--“Captain Keppel, before I hold out the hand of welcome, I come in +the name of myself and Board to thank you for the manner in which you +upheld the dignity of this branch of the service on the Australian +station.” After shaking hands they withdrew. Being alone with my friend +Admiral Deans Dundas, I ventured on a little chaff, asking him where +their Lordships’ reprimand was. He told me that they had given the +reprimand stronger to Erskine, on whose report they had acted. This +amused me. + +The Admiral then led me into the presence of Sir Francis Baring, the +First Lord, saying, “Here’s this fellow Keppel. I can do nothing with +him,” and withdrew. A more straightforward, upright man than Sir +Francis there could not be. He invited me to go into the business, +which ended in his asking if there was anything that I wanted at the +Admiralty. + +I replied that if he would kindly promote my First Lieutenant I +should not care a straw about the reprimands! He then said that if my +Lieutenant was in every way eligible he should be promoted. (Bowyear +shortly afterwards served as Commander in the _Vengeance_, 84, with +Captain Lord Edward Russell. He is now an Admiral, living in Guernsey, +and often comes across in the summer, when we talk over old times.) + +My invalid wife and self moved into the pretty lodge in Hyde Park, +lent us by my brother-in-law, Harry Stephenson, Deputy Ranger. The +First Exhibition was in full force, in Hyde Park, the idea having been +originated by the Prince Consort. Weeks passed before I was tired of +the novel scene. Everything was there, except ships. + +What seemed to astonish our foreign neighbours most were the size of +our bath-tubs, jugs, and basins. I found that great and good Rajah, +Sir James Brooke, still under the persecution of his former agent, +Mr. Wise, who was assisted by what we called “The Revenue Cutter,” +Mr. Hume! Sir James was a wreck of his former self. Among our Norfolk +friends and relations I had plenty of shooting. + +[Sidenote: Sept.] + +Near Quidenham was Edward Eyre, Rector of Larling. His was a charming +family, consisting of wife, four daughters, and a young son. Eyre +kindly offered to help me in a book I was perpetrating, with a view to +vindicate the character of Rajah Brooke. Norfolk is a genial county; in +spite of politics they all work together. + +My father on his deathbed had said to his wife that she would be the +first lady who ever won the Derby. He had at the time a promising bay +colt, “Bolingbroke,” who had won the “Hopeful” stakes at Newmarket in +1849, also the “Prendergast” at the second October meeting of that +year. Edwards was his trainer. In 1850 Bolingbroke ran sixth in the +Derby stakes in Edwards’s name. Report was strong that he had been got +at. He won the Don stakes at Doncaster. + +I frequently dined with Rous, and held the sovereigns when matches were +made. My brother-in-law, Joseph Hawley, was getting up a promising +racing stud. After Goodwood I went with the Rajah and Brierly for +the Cowes Regatta. There were rumours of old friend Schetky retiring +from the office of marine painter to the Royal Yacht Squadron: the +very thing for Brierly, at all events he might make friends among the +members. + +Every one was anxious to see the clipper yacht _America_, which won the +R.Y.S. Cup. She had unusually taunt spars, and was sold for £4000. + +In the match against _Titiana_ she beat her by four minutes, twelve +seconds. Heard of Tom Spring’s death--good fellow; he had “benefit of +clergy” too. + +[Sidenote: Nov.] + +Holyoake of 78th was now at home, and made me a kind offer of a mount +with the Pytchley. My hunting kit was always ready. I think the meet +was Cottesmore. We were riding down the slope of a turnip-field, a +stiffish hedge at the bottom, a gate in the left corner. A fox got up +in front, and was through the hedge in a moment. + +There was a cry of “keep your line”; mine was to the right of the post. +Just as my horse sprang for his jump, some heavy farmer on my right +turned my horse into the bottom of the ditch, which held water. + +Unluckily I was undermost, and my spur penetrated the left shoulder of +the horse, who was got out, lame as a tree. Friend Holyoake was near at +hand. We had then a walk of four miles. The next time with the Pytchley +I was known as the “Post Captain.” + + + + +CHAPTER XLIX + +SHORE TIME + + +[Sidenote: 1852.] + +To Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: London, Jan. 12. Jan. 13.] + +At Woolwich; saw _Agamemnon_, nearly ready for launching. _Royal +Albert_, 120; will be the finest ship in the world. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +To Lodge, Club, and Admiralty. Death of the good Vice-Admiral, Sir +William Montague, C.B., puts friend Walpole on Flag List. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Went to Brighton, with possession of Rajah Brooke’s lodgings, 6 Marine +Parade. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +To Cams for Goodwood. Weather fine. Usual load on Delmé’s drag. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +A jolly week finishes to-day. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +In London. Walked to Twickenham to dine with the Dowager Lady +Albemarle, who made me promise to meet her solicitor there on Wednesday +for my advantage! Went on Wednesday, but did not see advantage! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +Dined on guard at St. James’s. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 3.] + +London dull without money! Great idea of applying for the Coast of +Africa Station. Early September found me among kind Norfolk friends, +within easy distances. Luckily for myself, but hardly so for friend +Eyre, Larling Rectory was the centre--besides there was the book. He +tried to make me believe that it amused him as much as it did me. +Close by were the Birches at Skipdom, Partridges at Hockham, and Lord +Colborne, whose keeper at Banham was at my disposal. + +At Quidenham with brother Edward, but the blood-stock in the +neighbourhood had frightened away the game. Further north had equally +kind welcomes. In those days there was no driving, and as some of the +turnip-fields held more water than birds, my unwelcome baths were +frequent. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +The great Duke of Wellington died. + +[Sidenote: Quidenham, Sept. 17.] + +Dined with Lord Colborne, meeting Fanny Albemarle, who was staying with +brother Edward. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +_Agamemnon_ to be given away. Reported self ready to First Sea Lord. +Dined with Hyde Parker at the Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Visited Baldwin Walker, who had nominated me to the First Sea Lord. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +To Reigate to visit Rajah Brooke. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 26.] + +Busy drawing up a report for the best means of suppressing piracy. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 27.] + +To the Admiralty at an early hour. _Agamemnon_ given to Sir T. Maitland. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 28.] + +To friend Eyre at Larling. Book progressing. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Nov. 4.] + +The following letter raised my spirits:-- + + ADMIRALTY, _Nov. 3, 1852_. + + MY DEAR KEPPEL--If there is employment in the Baltic, or + elsewhere, for one of your rank, I will not forget you.--Yours + sincerely, + + (Signed) M. F. H. BERKELEY. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 18.] + +Funeral of the Duke of Wellington. After the procession had passed the +Club, having ticket for St. Paul’s, tried to work my way, but found I +was not big enough. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 1.] + +By train to Portsmouth and Ryde, _en route_ to Puckaster for wedding of +Fanny Vine and Captain Times: happy match. _Déjeuner_ for forty-five +persons. Had to propose “Bride and Bridegroom.” Everything went off +well. Dinner at Sir John and Lady Harrington’s. + +After the wedding my invalid wife was left under the care of her +sisters. I accompanied Fanny Albemarle to stay with her sister at +Mamhead Park, a charming place near Exeter, belonging to Sir Lydston +Newman, who, being in the Guards, left his uncle in the family mansion +to take care of his young sister, with whom I was on visit. + +There was a lake which ran parallel with the sea, full of +wild-fowl--swans, ducks, geese, etc.--a most enjoyable place, with a +railway station conveniently near for excursions. + + + + +CHAPTER L + +_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1853. May.] + +Warlike rumours. Did not like the idea of being far from the +Admiralty, where I had friends. My wife was again established in our +pretty cottage at Droxford. The Crosbie family, although separated +by marriages, were kind to their invalid sister. A gem of same name, +daughter of Lord Brandon, Mrs. Yorke--now a widow--had a son in the +Navy. + +For neighbours we had Tom Garnier, the kind Dean of Winchester. His +son, who was afterwards Dean of Lincoln, married my youngest sister +Caroline. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Captain Sir Baldwin Walker, Comptroller, had built the finest +two-decker. The constructor of a new type of ship had generally been +allowed to nominate the captain. To Sir Baldwin I was indebted for my +appointment to the _St. Jean d’ Acre_, then fitting at Devonport. She +was 3400 tons, mounting 101 guns on two decks: crew, with officers and +men, 900. + +[Sidenote: Devonport, May 23.] + +_Acre_ was commissioned by Commander Peter Cracroft; most of the +officers joined in the first week. As this will be the fourth ship +my kind readers have helped me to fit out, they should be spared the +intricacies of a dockyard. That everything passed pleasantly I have +only to mention that my kind friend Commodore Michael Seymour was +superintendent, with whose charming family I chiefly lived. Admiral Sir +John Ommaney, K.C.B., a rough diamond, was Commander-in-Chief. Miss +Ommaney, equally kind, managed the household. Took charge of _Bellona_ +hulk. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +Marine artillerymen and seamen, gunners joined from _Impregnable_, +marines from headquarters, making in all 200. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +My old friend, Colonel Yea, and officers of the Royal Fusiliers, who +were at Malta when I was in the _Childers_, kindly made me an honorary +member of their mess. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +Admiral came on board to muster and inspect ship’s company. Manned +yards. Got steam up and successfully tried engines. Got the first of +Rodgers’s iron-stocked bower anchors at the cat-head, 93 cwts.; neat +and serviceable-looking. First experience of coaling. Received 509 +tons. Took us five days. Turned over from hulk to ship. Bent sails. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Slipped moorings, ran out under screw, two miles beyond the Eddystone. +3 P.M.--Returned to the Sound. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 15.] + +3 P.M.--Sir James Graham and some Lords of the Admiralty came on board +unofficially. Steamed out. Saluting flag of Commander-in-Chief, stood +out beyond the Eddystone, and returned to the Sound. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 19.] + +Commodore Michael Seymour came on board and paid advance. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +8 A.M.--Weighed, made sail; raised and stowed screw. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +9 A.M.--Off entrance of Cork Harbour, observing court-martial flag. +Stood off until afternoon. On running in and shortening sail, saluted +flag of Rear-Admiral Sir William F. Carroll, K.C.B., and made signal, +“Where to anchor?” Reply, “Where convenient.” + +There were nineteen ships, in two lines, composing the Channel +Squadron, under Rear-Admiral Sir Armand Lowry Corry. It was slack +water, and the ships, although moored, were in various positions. The +_Gondola_, cutter yacht, Lord Lichfield, could scarcely get through. +There was no room for us to haul to the wind. The screw was up. Nothing +left but to sheet home top and topgallant sails, and run the gauntlet +between the lines. As stated, they were across the tide. Several flying +and standing jib-booms had narrow escapes. At the end of the lines we +anchored. + +The _Jenny d’ Acre_, as the seamen called her, got kudos: her +performance talked of at the clubs in London. On one occasion Lord +Adolphus Fitz-Clarence remarked on the great advantage of an auxiliary +screw. To which Sir James Graham replied, “Hang the fellow! He had no +screw down!” + +Friend Brierly was on board, and made a very clever sketch of _Gondola_ +and the _Acre_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 30.] + +Fleet weighed, outermost ships first. Steamed and sailed out of +harbour. On getting outside we found _Agamemnon_, 91, screw steamship, +Captain Sir Thomas Maitland, Commander Robert Hall; _Hogue_, 60, +Captain William Ramsay; _Blenheim_, 60, Captain Hon. Frederick T. +Pelham; _Imperieuse_, 50, screw steam frigate, Captain Rundle B. Watson +(Viscount Gilford, a lieutenant); _Tribune_, 30, screw steam frigate, +Captain Hon. S. T. Carnegie; _Vulture_, 6, steam frigate, Captain Fred. +H. H. Glasse; _Desperate_, 8, screw steam ship, Captain William W. +Chambers; and _Sidon_, 22, paddle wheel, Captain George Goldsmith. +Parted company. + +Remainder formed in two divisions--WEATHER: consisting of _Prince +Regent_ (flag), 90, Captain Frederick Hutton; _St. Jean d’ Acre_, 101; +_Amphion_, 34, screw steam frigate, Captain Astley C. Key; _Highflyer_, +21, screw steam frigate, Captain John Moore. LEE DIVISION: _Duke of +Wellington_, 130, screw steamship, Commodore Henry B. Martin; _London_, +90, Captain Charles Eden; _Arrogant_, 47, screw steamship, Captain +Hastings R. Yelverton; _Valorous_, 16, Captain Claude Buckle. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +8 A.M.--Made all plain sail to try rate of sailing (per signal) on a +wind. Trial chiefly between the _Duke of Wellington_ and _St. Jean d’ +Acre_, in which the latter had the advantage, a trifle only; the rest +nowhere. _Acre_ requiring trifle more false keel! 5 P.M.--Formed order +of sailing. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Tried rate of sailing off the wind, in which _St. Jean d’ Acre_ was +best. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 8.] + +9 A.M.--Got steam up. Admiral on board. Hoisted his flag. Tried speed +with _Duke of Wellington_--about equal. Engineers complaining of the +coals. 2 P.M.--Admiral returned to his ship, taking flag with him. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +9.30 A.M.--Laid out targets. Fleet exercised at general quarters, +firing at a mark. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 12.] + +10 A.M.--Got steam up to try rate with _Duke of Wellington_ under steam +and canvas together; just as we got our steam well up, _Duke_ broke +down. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Came to at Spithead with the fleet. Moored. Found _Blenheim_, 60; +_Leopard_, 12; brig _Rolla_, 6; and _Sidon_, 22; also a Russian +corvette. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 17.] + +At Admiralty: met Sir Edmund Lyons, who had been promised a command. He +was trying to find out what ship they would give him. He was just then +the only flag officer I would care to serve in the capacity of flag +captain, and offered ship and self for that purpose. On ascertaining +that I really meant what I said, he appeared to be equally satisfied +and went direct to the First Lord, but without success. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 18.] + +Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane visited and inspected without notice. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 25.] + +4 P.M.--Weighed. Steamed into Portsmouth Harbour and secured alongside +_Camperdown_. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 12.] + +Not sorry to receive enclosed:-- + + ADMIRALTY, _Nov. 10, 1853_. + + MY DEAR KEPPEL--When _St. Jean d’ Acre_ is ready for sea you + will be ordered on a cruise to the southward in order that you + may get your ship’s company into proper training, and I quite + agree with you of the necessity for doing so.--Always yours + sincerely, + + HYDE PARKER. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 14.] + +Turned over to hulk. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +In steam basin, additional false keel having been placed from 3 inches +forward to 9 abaft, exactly what I wanted. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 19.] + +Noon.--Ship out of basin to hulk. Steam up at 9 A.M. for amusement of +dockyard officials. Ship coaling. Cleaning hulk, and shifting over. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26.] + +Dressed ship masthead flags. Ships in harbour manning yards and +saluting on Her Majesty’s embarking from Royal Clarence Victualling +Yard. Ships at Spithead doing same on _Fairy_ passing through _en +route_ to Osborne. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +11.20 A.M.--Cast off from hulk and steamed out of harbour. Saluted flag +of Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane. Proceeded to Stokes Bay. Tried +speed under steam at measured mile. Mean of six trials just under 12 +knots per hour. 3.30 P.M.--Came to at Spithead. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 5.] + +Got on board powder and shell. Received supernumeraries for fleet at +Lisbon. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 6.] + +3 P.M.--Weighed and made sail, standing towards St. Helens. + +[Sidenote: Plymouth, Dec. 7.] + +8.40.--Came to in the Sound. Found _Hogue_ and _Magicienne_. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +Commodore-Superintendent Michael Seymour came on board and paid advance +to newly raised men. Crew complete. 7 P.M.--Weighed; made sail and +stood out of the Sound to join fleet in Tagus. + +[Sidenote: Off Tagus, Dec. 18.] + +Took pilot on board and ran into the Tagus by northern passage. Pilot +informing me there was no quarantine, ran past Belem without picking up +health boat. 3 P.M.--Shortened, and while furling sails, signal from +flag to take up a different berth from that for which we were prepared. + +Being carried up by the tide, and but little steerage way, had +difficulty in clearing _Imperieuse_, and in swinging carried away +_Desperate’s_ jibboom. Placed in quarantine. Signal from flag to +“Moor.” When completed, signal to “Weigh immediately and proceed to +Belem.” Before under weigh, another signal, “Despatch is necessary.” +Wind failing and flood making, came to in centre of stream. + +[Sidenote: Lisbon, Dec. 19.] + +Daylight.--Weighed and dropped down to Belem. Fleet in river, +consisting of _Prince Regent_, flag; _Duke of Wellington_, Commodore H. +Martin; _Imperieuse_, _Arrogant_, _Tribune_, _Valorous_, _Desperate_, +_Odin_, _Amphion_ and _Cruizer_. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 20.] + +Having got pratique, 2 P.M., weighed and made sail. Worked up. Fired +two royal salutes, in company with the fleet, on the young King of +Portugal visiting and leaving. 4.30--Came to, as per signal, in 26 +fathoms, Packet Stairs, N.E. by E. Measles in the ship; sent cases to +hospital. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 24.] + +Light and contrary winds with falling tides. Signal made for particular +ships to weigh. 10.40 A.M.--Weighed to allow _Duke of Wellington_ to +pass clear. At 11, having water-tank alongside, came to in 22 fathoms. +Fleet under way, working down. Breeze freshening, found ship dragging +anchor. Stood as close as we could, with safety, in-shore to get out of +the way. + +_Desperate_ missing stays, and having got stem way fell thwart our +hawse, carrying away mainmast and portion of her bulwarks, we losing +jib and flying jibboom, and bowsprit cap starting. After this and other +mishaps, fleet came to an anchor. Chief more at home in Cowes Roads. + +[Sidenote: Off Lisbon, Dec. 28.] + +11.30.--Weighed. Noon.--Made sail, running down the Tagus for a month’s +cruising for the purpose of exercising newly raised men. Cruising +ground between Cape Roca and Madeira. Wind blowing fresh from the N.E., +made for the islands. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 31.] + +1 P.M.--Came to in 40 fathoms, Funchal Roads. Saluted the Portuguese +flag. + + + + +CHAPTER LI + +_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_--CRUISING + + +[Sidenote: 1854. Madeira, Jan. 2.] + +Many friends on shore, besides residents; among them Frederick +Grey, with his charming but invalid wife. My intention was, weather +permitting, to anchor in the Roads on Saturdays, remain Sundays, and +proceed on a cruise Monday mornings. Among sailing and yachting friends +was Sir Charles Lyall, requiring change of air. + +Frederick Grey had brought his wife, but she was delicate, and +preferred the shore; in such an open anchorage the swell is uncertain. +Regular exercise improved health and strength of crew. We sometimes +anchored among the Deserter Islands. On Saturdays, if smooth, the poor +invalid ladies, mostly young and consumptive, used to come on board in +charge of their doctors. Music was always at hand, and very willing +partners. + +It was pitiable to see the pretty girls, with that sad hectic flush on +the cheek, pleading with their doctors for “one, only one” quadrille, +and the doctors reminding their patients of the one month, or so many +weeks, they had to live, and that each dance would shorten life so many +days. Most of the poor dears preferred the dance. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 13.] + +Anchored in Porto Santo, leaving Grey to amuse himself. Started in gig +to explore the interior harbour. On nearing the land, found a surf +breaking: pulled to the eastward. Approaching the Stone, further on, +observed smooth water inside the surf. I entered, pulling a good half +mile in perfect safety. We amused ourselves in dredging for shells, etc. + +[Illustration: _Gunnery Exercise._] + +On returning on board found that Fred Grey had watched the gig +carefully through my best Dolland. Seeing her disappear behind the +surf, he told me that he had written the Admiralty an account of my +loss, and requested he might be appointed to the vacancy! + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14.] + +Weighed at daylight, arriving next day in Funchal Roads. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 17.] + +Had a party on board to breakfast and dance. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Weighed and made sail, having been most hospitably entertained during +our visit. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +The last month’s cruise gave me thorough confidence in the crew. We +had throughout the usual exercise before sunset in reefing and other +manœuvres. The officers of the night watches were at liberty to use +their discretion in making or shortening sail, reporting any change to +the Captain. Weather beautiful. Until midnight I had walked the deck +with the officer of the watch. My cot was under the poop. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +About an hour after I heard the “pat” of single drops of rain. +Recollecting the old saying, “Rain before the wind, take topsails in; +wind before the rain, make sail again,” I rang the bell for the officer +of the watch. He said it was a beautiful night. I cautioned him to keep +a good look-out, hands by halyards, etc. Not many minutes after, the +three topgallant masts were over the side. The ship was hove to. The +wreck was cleared by daylight. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +The wind abated, but not the sea, and, horror of horrors, at daylight +the main topmast was found sprung just below the rigging. The main +topmast of such a ship was heavy, and with ever so light a swell +difficult to control, but I determined to risk the responsibility. The +chief danger was, after the head of the new topmast had been passed +through the main cap, a lurch might spring the head of the mainmast. + +A victory after a fight could not have given me greater pleasure than +when the fid was in its place, and support spread like a cobweb. Fair +readers, forgive my attempting to describe the event; such a thing can +never happen again. Nor should you hear of it now, had I not registered +a vow to tell the “truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth, +so help me ----.” By the 31st we were in Gibraltar Bay, and soon got +rid of every vestige of our mishap. + +[Sidenote: Gibraltar, Feb. 4.] + +12.30.--Weighed and steamed out, having received orders to rejoin the +Fleet at Lisbon, without delay. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 5.] + +3 P.M.--Observed the fleet in the Tagus, Rear-Admiral Corry having +shifted his flag from blue to white. 4.30.--Came to in 12 fathoms off +Belem Castle, having eight days’ quarantine to complete from the time +of leaving Gibraltar. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +De Crispigny promoted to rank of Lieutenant, and appointed to _James +Watts_. Put him on board _Desperate_ as she steamed past on her way +home. + +[Sidenote: Lisbon, Feb. 12.] + +11 A.M.--Weighed, rejoined fleet, came to off Packet Stairs. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 15.] + +Weighed and made sail as per signal. Hove to for fleet at noon; filled +and took station in line-of-battle astern of flag, _Duke of Wellington_ +leading division. + +[Sidenote: At Sea, Feb. 21.] + +9 A.M.--Fleet formed ahead of lee column. Hove to; laid out targets and +exercised at general quarters. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +Arrived Spithead. Found _Princess Royal_ with flag of Vice-Admiral Sir +Charles Napier; _Edinburgh_, flag of Rear-Admiral Chads; _Boscawen_, +_Hogue_, _Odin_, _Leopard_, _Magæra_, _Dragon_, _Simoom_, and _Frolic_. +5 P.M.--Sailed _Simoom_, one of our early magnificent class of +transports, with First Battalion Scots Fusilier Guards _en route_ to +Crimea. Manned rigging and cheered. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 2.] + +Completed water. Sent Phipps, one of our promising youngsters, to the +hospital. Laid out, and had constant practice at target (an exercise +which continued to end of the chapter!). + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +Arrived _Royal George_, Codrington. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Arrived _Duke of Wellington_, and hoisted flag of Admiral Sir Charles +Napier. Manned yards, fired royal salute, and cheered as Her Majesty +passed through the fleet. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +12.30--The Queen visited the fleet in the _Fairy_ yacht. Cheered from +the rigging as Her Majesty passed. Later, signal from the yacht for +Admirals and Captains to be presented to Her Majesty by the First Lord +of the Admiralty. + +Each ship had friends on board. I had my due proportion of visitors. +Among them Brierly, nephew Bury; Edward, now Lord Digby; young Harry +Stephenson, whose father, my brother-in-law, had quarrelled with me not +long before for having offered to take one of his boys to sea. He now +was the greatest child, dancing a hornpipe on the forecastle in Hessian +boots! His son Harry, too young to enter the Navy, was stowed away, and +remained with me, as did Brierly and Bury. + +The wind was west-north-west. Made sail before weighing. Yards braced +for casting to port. Although on the poop with friends had assumed +charge. Signal made, “Fleet to weigh.” Her Majesty in yacht ready to +lead. + +The master at that moment reported there was only one ship’s length +between us and the head of the Spit. The anchor was already at the +cathead. Piped “Belay.” “Man starboard braces.” As she came head to +wind, ran the jibs up, heading towards the Spit. With the stern-way +thus secured we were in deep water, and shortly in position next astern +of the flag. Old seamen may ask, “Why starboard instead of port braces?” + +For increase of purchase I had the head braces, when they reached the +main bitts, led across, which was quickly understood by that useful +body of men the Royal Marines. When this little manœuvre was explained, +Digby went below and wrote a cheque for £100. Never was a tip more +welcome. Her Majesty led the fleet as far as the Nab. 2.30.--Hove to. +Friends left according to their arrangements as we ran slowly along +the coast. Wind fair, weather fine, and constant communication. Many +remained until following day. With yachts and pleasure boats it was a +grand sight. At 4 P.M. we, by signal, formed into two lines-- + + + PORT. + + _Edinburgh._ + _Hogue._ + _Blenheim._ + _Ajax._ + _Tribune._ + _Amphion._ + + + STARBOARD. + + _Duke of Wellington._ + _St. Jean d’ Acre._ + _Royal George._ + _Princess Royal._ + _Imperieuse._ + _Arrogant._ + + +Frigates: _Leopard_, flag of Admiral Plumridge, _Valorous_ and _Dragon_. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +_Hecla_ joined with Baltic pilots. Rough lot; huge pipes, sealskin +caps, and waistcoats! + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Fleet weighed. Proceeded. Dense fog. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +No rendezvous given. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Admiral firing a gun every fifteen minutes. Fog continuing. Several of +the fleet missing. + +[Sidenote: Vinga Sound, Mar. 19.] + +Admiral shifted flag to _Valorous_ and proceeded to Copenhagen. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +Sunset.--_Valorous_ returned with Commander-in-Chief, bringing lots of +cherry brandy. + +[Sidenote: Vinga Sound, Mar. 23.] + +Weighed in company with fleet. Formed prescribed order of sailing, +proceeded towards the Great Belt. 3. P.M.--_Neptune_, with flag of +Rear-Admiral Corry, in sight. Salutes exchanged between Admirals. +Signal made “Prepare to anchor.” The usual routine of manœuvring, +firing at targets, etc., went on. _St. Jean d’ Acre_ being one of the +few fitted with distilling apparatus, we were constantly supplying +other ships with pure water. + +[Sidenote: Kioga Bay, April 3.] + +Squally weather. 1.30.--Parted B.B. cable while veering quickly after +letting go, but saved fouling _Royal George_. Struck topmasts and let +go sheet-anchor. + +[Sidenote: April 4.] + +Succeeded in hooking B.B. cable, but too much swell to weigh. Succeeded +later. + +Following communication made from Commander-in-Chief by signal flags +from each yard-arm as well as masthead. + + “Lads! war is declared; with a bold and numerous enemy to meet. + + “Should they offer us battle, you know how to dispose of them. + + “Should they remain in port we must try and get at them. + + “Success depends on the precision and quickness of your firing. + + “Lads! sharpen your cutlasses, and the day is your own!” + +[Illustration: St. Jean d’Acre.] + + + + +CHAPTER LII + +THE BALTIC FLEET + + +[Sidenote: 1854. Kioga Bay.] + +My cabin was the after-part of the main-deck, with its accommodation +and comforts; but under the impression that business was intended I +did away with luxuries. Instead of drawers I had tin cases to fit +neatly overhead between the beams. One quarter-gallery was my bath and +dressing-room; no bulkheads of any sort. At dinner-time a temporary +canvas-screen fitted, after we went to the stern walk, which did duty +of after-cabin. Exercising at quarters, we transferred the foremost +guns from each side, and fired them out of my cabin windows. + +On visiting Clarence Paget in the _Princess Royal_ I found a cot hung +up, with a chubby-faced boy down with fever. It was Victor Montagu, the +young son of Lord Sandwich, midshipman and nephew of his captain. We +met afterwards in China and elsewhere. + +[Sidenote: April 12.] + +Daylight.--Fleet weighed and made sail as per signal. In all, 39 +pennants. + +[Sidenote: April 25.] + +Dressed ships with masthead flags in honour of the birthday of the +Princess Alice. + +[Sidenote: May 1.] + +Arrived the _Austerlitz_, 100 guns, screw propeller, Captain Laurençin, +the first of the French fleet. She had been several days at different +rendezvous. On board was my friend Gizholme of Tahiti as second. Our +meeting was cordial: we embraced as Frenchmen. Beyond the exchange +of salutes, no further public mark shown of how we appreciated the +alliance, but the figureheads, “Napoleon and Wellington,” were +confronting one another. + +[Sidenote: Elgsmabben, May 4.] + +Arrived, Captain Henry Seymour, from West Indies and England. We had +long been on the look-out for the _Cumberland_. It was a pleasure and +amusement to initiate Seymour into the mysteries of this warlike fleet, +which no one seemed to understand. My friend had a charming younger +brother, Wilfrid, with him, whose profession had not been decided +on. Henry was full of life and spirits, looking forward to great +things--yet to be done. + +[Sidenote: May 5.] + +Fleet weighed as per signal, screws under steam, and proceeded through +the Daläräo Channel. Rendezvous Golska Sands. _Austerlitz_ in co. +Before the leading ships had reached the Landsort Lighthouse, the whole +fleet was enveloped in fog. + +[Sidenote: May 7.] + +Commander George Wodehouse joined the fleet. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Intelligence having reached of death from drowning of Captain Foote of +the _Conflict_, the Admiral promoted Commander Cumming of the _Gorgon_ +into the vacancy, appointing Commander Cracroft of this ship to the +_Gorgon_; sending the Commander of the _Cressy_, John Dorville, who was +anxious for a change anywhere, to the _St. Jean d’Acre_; and promoting +the first lieutenant of the _Duke_, an arrangement which appeared to +give satisfaction to all parties except myself, who had parted with an +esteemed friend and good officer. I was glad, however, to get Dorville. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +A division of ships placed under command of Rear-Admiral Corry. +Remainder formed into two lines:-- + + _Duke of Wellington._ + _Hogue._ + _St. Jean d’Acre._ + _Blenheim._ + _Austerlitz._ + + _Edinburgh._ + _Cressy._ + _Cæsar._ + _Princess Royal._ + +[Sidenote: Running for Hangö.] + +We used to be next astern of the flag, but I fancy the Chief got tired +of our figurehead--a fine half-figure of Sir Robert Stopford--always +looking into the stern-windows of his cabin! + +[Sidenote: Running for Hangö Island.] + +11 A.M.--Signal made for us to proceed in chase of a stranger ahead. +May 14 having been fixed as the latest day on which neutral vessels +quitting a Russian port would be allowed to pass the line of blockade, +brought in sight a number of vessels, from whom we obtained accurate +information of the position and force of the Russian fleets at +Kronstadt and Helsingfors. 8 P.M.--Resumed station in line of battle. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +Signal made for us to look out on starboard beam of flag. + +[Sidenote: May 19.] + +7 A.M.--Boarded several vessels that had left Kronstadt or Narva on or +before the 14th. 8.30 P.M.--Resumed station. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Arrived _Arrogant_ and _Hecla_ with Russian prize barque, which they +had cut out at Eckness. They were cheered on joining the fleet. + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +Received from the _St. George_ our spare screw propeller, seven tons +weight; awkward to stow. Placed it athwart, and between the end of the +booms and galley-funnels. Still supplying distilled water!! + +[Sidenote: May 24.] + +Fired royal salute in commemoration of Her Majesty’s birthday. + +[Sidenote: Hangö Roads, May 26.] + +9.30 A.M.--Commander-in-Chief came on board, nominally to inspect, +and left again after having made some unjust remarks relative to the +gunnery and drill of the ship, such as, if reported to the Admiralty, +might be considered by them as an excuse for his having for so long +persistently avoided the neighbourhood of the enemy’s ships. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +8.45.--Came to with the fleet in Barösund. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +Arrived _Hecla_, who supplied us with eight oxen, without fodder! +Slaughtered them. Received more potatoes than we could consume. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +Arrived _Pigmy_, Lieutenant James Hunt, my _Dido_ shipmate. + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Stood out of Barösund. + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +5.30 A.M.--Weighed under steam, standing to the eastward. _Imperieuse_ +and _Arrogant_ joined, we being on their cruising-ground. Fleet came to +off Helsingfors, from which place, by telescope, the masts of some of +the Russian fleet could be seen at anchor in the harbour. + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +At 5.30 A.M.--Fleet weighed and made sail. 6.30.--Observed the French +fleet to the westward. The French Vice-Admiral, M. P. Deschênes, +hoisted the English ensign at the main, and saluted flag of Sir +Charles Napier. Salute returned. English fleet saluting French flag. +10.--Shortened and furled; proceeded under steam. + +On joining company, found French fleet to consist of the _Inflexible_, +90, Vice-Admiral Deschênes; _Du Guesclin_, 90, Rear-Admiral Penana; +_Hercule_, 100, Captain Louien; _Jemappes_, 100, Captain Robin du +Parc; _Taga_, 100, Captain Fabore; _Duperié_, 82, Captain Penana; and +_Trident_, 82, Captain F. de Maussion de Condé, with seven frigates, +besides steamers. French fleet hove to, while our fleet passed heading +into Barösund. Paddle-wheel steamers assisting in towing French fleet +in. + +1 P.M.--Came to in sixteen fathoms. After the French fleet had +anchored, the allied forces in Barösund consisted of 19 English ships +of the line (11 of these screws), 8 French ships of the line (1 screw) +4 French, and one English frigate, 13 steamers of both nations. We had +also the _Belleisle_ (Hospital) and _Resistance_, store-ship, making +a total of 47 men-of-war. There were in the anchorage _Esmeralda_, +and R.Y.S. _Gondola_, Lord Lichfield’s yacht, besides colliers and +transports, making altogether a goodly sight. The French fleet had 2000 +marines on board, beyond their complement. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +Admiral Sir Charles Napier visited the French Commander-in-Chief in the +_Inflexible_; the French fleet manning yards and cheering. + +[Illustration: _The Commander-in-Chief._] + +[Sidenote: Barösund, June 15.] + +French Vice-Admiral, Parseval Deschênes, returned Sir Charles Napier’s +visit. The captains of the British ships attended on board the _Duke +of Wellington_, when they were introduced to the French Admiral, and +honours paid him similar to those received by Sir Charles Napier. +Received powder and shot from _Resistance_. + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +Laid out targets at 750 yards, and exercised at general quarters. +Practice particularly good at mark--a single staff cut down over and +over again. Received shot from _Resistance_, 10, troop-ship, Master +Commander Manser Bradshaw. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +Dressed ship with masthead flags, and at noon both fleets fired a royal +salute in honour of anniversary of Her Majesty’s accession. + +[Sidenote: Sestran Island, June 24.] + +French fleet proceeded to eastward, Admirals communicating, when it was +proposed by Parseval Deschênes to Sir Charles Napier that, to prove to +the Russians the _entente cordiale_ that existed between our nations, +the English screw-liners should each take a French liner in tow, and +proceed in line past the Russian forts, the French Admiral, as senior +officer, waiving his right of precedence. His proposition was not +acceded to by Sir Charles Napier; the excuse that “His Captains were +too inexperienced to undertake such an operation”! + +[Sidenote: Off Kronstadt, June 26.] + +5 A.M.--Fleet weighed under steam. French fleet in co., proceeding easy +to eastward. 11 A.M.--Approached near enough to Kronstadt to observe +the mastheads of the Russian fleet and then wore. 1.50.--Came to in +16 fathoms. Anchored in two columns. Frigates and steamers sent to +reconnoitre. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +_Driver_ arrived. Cholera made its appearance on board both fleets. +Elliot, Clarence Paget, and myself took advantage of a kind invitation +from Lord Lichfield for a sail on board the _Gondola_, as we might run +pretty close to the entrance of Kronstadt without attracting attention. + +[Illustration: _The_ Gondola _Yacht off Tolbeacon Light_.] + +We were some distance inside the Tolbeacon Lighthouse, as were also the +cruising frigates, when we observed a large Russian steamer standing +out. When it was thought advisable for us to haul to the wind, the +sudden change of motion and difference of size of ships had the effect +on me of a stomach pump; and when it was reported that the Russian +was steering for us, I considered myself a Russian prisoner! However, +cruisers quickly discovered our position and ran towards the Russian, +which returned to Kronstadt. This led to a report getting into the +English papers that we had been chased by the Emperor Nicholas in +person. + +[Sidenote: June 28.] + +Hoisted masthead flags, and at noon both fleets fired a royal salute in +honour of anniversary of Her Majesty’s coronation. On these occasions +the French and English flags were hoisted together. My distillery was +never at rest, supplying fleet with the purest of water. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +9.30 A.M.--Weighed; made all plain sail for exercise. During our stay +off Kronstadt, steamers and boats from the fleet were continually +sounding on the north side of the island, thereby pointing out from +whence an attack might be expected, when nothing of the sort was ever +contemplated. + +[Sidenote: July 1.] + +There was a creek that ran up a considerable distance to the rear of +the Kronstadt Batteries. Scarcely a ship of the line that did not +submit to the consideration of the Commander-in-Chief an exact model +of the boats and spars, with weight and draught of each, by which +heavy ordnance could be conveyed to the rear of the Russian Batteries. +The Commander-in-Chief’s fore-cabin was half full of these clever and +interesting models, which were not even acknowledged. + +[Sidenote: July 2.] + +9.30.--Weighed under steam. Fleets in co. 6 P.M.--Came to off Seskan +Island. + +No encouragement given by Chief to mix with cheery allies. + +[Sidenote: July 13.] + +Sailed _Majestic_, on a cruise, being sickly with cholera. + +[Sidenote: July 18.] + +Arrived _Dauntless_, 33, screw-steamer frigate. Captain Alfred P. +Ryder. Joined Mr. Stanley Graham, son of First Lord, midshipman from +_Dauntless_. + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +Admiral Corry returning to England in _Dauntless_, ships remaining were +placed under the orders of Commodore Martin, and proceeded to cruise in +the Gulf of Finland. 4.30 P.M.--Arrived Admiral Plumridge in _Leopard_; +with a division of steamers joined company. 7 P.M.--Rounded Lagskar +Lighthouse. 9.45.--Came to in 13 fathoms in Ledsund. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Notice having been received that 10,000 French troops were coming out, +preparations were made for an attack on the fort at Bomarsund. The +destruction of which might, with little or no difficulty, have been +accomplished in the month of April by a division of the British fleet. + +At daylight the block-ships and _Amphion_ under Admiral Chads, and +steam division under Admiral Plumridge, proceeded towards Bomarsund--a +safe channel for ships of any draught having been discovered by Captain +William Hall of _Hecla_, and afterwards buoyed off by Captain Sullivan. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +Marines inspected by Colonel Graham, who pronounced them the finest +body of men he had seen in the fleet. + +[Sidenote: July 26.] + +_Odin_ arrived; Captain Francis Scott, old friend of my lieutenant days. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +Supplied _Cumberland_ with water. Sent three cholera cases to +_Belleisle_. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +Four more cholera cases; making us anxious for health of crew. Arrived +General Barraguay d’Hilliers and staff in the French Emperor’s yacht +_La Reine Hortense_ from Stockholm; received him with cheers and yards +manned. Visits exchanged between Chiefs and others. Manning of yards. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +French and English Generals and engineer officers visiting Bomarsund to +make arrangements prior to attack. Steam vessels constantly on the move +between this anchorage and Åland Islands. More cholera cases! Ordered +by Commander-in-Chief to send field-pieces, _without men_, on board +_Driver_ for conveyance to Admiral Chads. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +Another death, a marine, from cholera, making, since its first +appearance on 27th June, twenty cases, of which twelve proved fatal. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +French ships proceeding towards Bomarsund, four of their largest ships, +with both Admirals, besides frigates, steamers, and transports. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 7.] + +Sent scaling ladders to _Bulldog_ for conveyance to Admiral Chads. +General Barraguay d’Hilliers proceeded to Bomarsund in _La Reine +Hortense_. Embarked seventy marines under command of Captain Clavell, +and Lieutenants Brooke and Davidson, on board _Dawn_, in compliance +with a request made by Barraguay d’Hilliers, but reluctantly acceded to +by Sir Charles Napier, for land service. + +Not, as the General informed me, that he required the force, but +that he was anxious we should share in all operations; such being +the express wish of the French Emperor. Lieutenant Lennox attended +as A.D.C. to Colonel Graham. All remaining transports and steamers +proceeded up. Commander-in-Chief, attended by the Captain of the Fleet, +Rear-Admiral Seymour and suite, hoisted his flag in _Bulldog_. + + + + +CHAPTER LIII + +THE BOMBARDMENT OF BOMARSUND + + +[Sidenote: 1854.] + +Before Bomarsund was regularly invested there were places where our +wardroom officers could land by twos and threes for exercise, when +it was not worth while for the Russian Circular Towers to expend +ammunition. + +On one occasion, when the officers had taken my nephew, Harry +Stephenson, a round shot buried itself within a few yards of them. They +dispersed in haste, all but young Harry, who picked up a pointed stick +and commenced digging at his first trophy. + +The _St. Jean d’Acre_ and the _Cumberland_ were, with many others, +at Ledsund, five-and-twenty miles from Bomarsund; but Seymour and I +thought, for the good of the Service, we should be eye-witnesses of the +preparations. The troops left for Bomarsund on the afternoon of the +7th. Late in the evening Henry Seymour and I started in my gig, sailing +or pulling easily. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +In a thick fog, about 3 A.M., we landed on a wooden pier to cook +an early coffee. While this was going on we heard _three_ heavy +explosions. Seymour thought it must be the Admirals’ daylight guns. But +there were only two Admirals! + +Although in a dense fog, with our boat’s compass we knew pretty well +where we ought to be, and found ourselves alongside the _Blenheim_, 60, +Captain Hon. Fred Pelham, who gave us all the information we required. + +The ball was to open at daylight, by the French steamer _Phlegethon_ +and English frigate _Amphion_, who had ascertained the exact range of +the Russian fort that was intended to destroy any force that might +attempt a landing. + +After a while we found ourselves close to the very fort on which the +frigates were to open fire. Neither seeing anything nor hearing the +slightest noise we entered by one of the embrasures. It was deserted, +but before doing so the Russians had attempted to burst the guns, and +had only partially succeeded. One gun had the muzzle blown off; one +only had completely burst; a third had gone off, but half-buried itself +in the earth. There were in all five heavy eight-inch guns. These three +explosions were what Seymour and myself had heard while drinking our +coffee on the wooden pier. + +It was now about the appointed time that the frigates were to open fire +on the fort we were in; they had taken the exact range the previous +evening. We lay off, the fog as dense as ever. We were none too soon. +The _Amphion_ and _Phlegethon_ fired shell, which, bursting in the +fort, had the appearance in the fog of a return fire. + +After a while there was a lull. Presently we heard distant cheering. +This was from the crews coming to take possession of the fort they +had silenced. The fog continued, and it was high time we took care of +ourselves. On the south-eastern end of the anchorage, in Lumpar Bay, +was the _Odin_ steamer, 16 guns, commanded by our young old friend, +Frank Scott. Here we were well taken care of and jolly, narrating our +adventures. Wilfrid Seymour had joined us from the _Sphynx_. + +It was between 2 and 3 P.M. when the officer of the watch reported the +Admiral coming. What were we to do? Frank Scott had a lumber cabin in +which he kept spare furniture when clear for action. In this we hid. +When he and Sir Charles had sat down to the usual grog, the Chief said +to Scott:--“That was a dom’d fine thing of the frigates this morning.” +Scott replied, without thinking, “Why, I hear there was no one in the +fort”! To which the old Chief replied, “Who has been telling you a +dom’d lie? Why, Chaads saw, from the masthead, at least five hundred +soldiers rush out”! + +On the morning of the 10th the disembarkation of the guns commenced. +Each ship had been ordered to prepare two sledges, made according to a +pattern by Captain Ramsay of the _Hogue_. + +Amongst the officers so employed was H.S.H. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, +mate of the _Cumberland_, who was put in charge of a 12-pounder +field-piece, with which he kept one of the circular forts employed. He +was very happy, pounding away at the fort, all the while puffing at his +pet meerschaum “peep.” + +It is not my intention to trouble my readers with a sailor’s opinion +of the capture of Bomarsund. Experienced officers, both French and +English, worked well together. + +I was like the boy that was sent to a French school, who, on inquiry of +his parents when he got home for the holidays, said, “We had nothing +to do, and we did it.” But with my friend Henry Seymour, who had his +younger brother (now General Lord William Seymour, in command of our +troops in Canada), we had great fun; with a tent between us and our +ships’ gigs we really enjoyed ourselves. On one occasion, when camped +under a hill, the Russian shot passed over our heads into the country +beyond. The next morning Henry felt a little nervous on account of the +young brother, and proposed shifting our tent nearer the hill; the +change was only just completed, when a round shot dropped into the site +of our former position. + +[Illustration: _Circular Fort, Bomarsund._] + + + + +CHAPTER LIV + +_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1854. Ledsund. Aug. 17.] + +Ships and steamers coming from Bomarsund. + +Launches employed in conveying prisoners from steamers to troop-ships. +The lately promoted Rear-Admiral Michael Seymour hoisted his flag in +_Duke of Wellington_. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +Plumridge sailed in _Leopard_ to relieve Henry Martin, in command of +the reserve division at Nargen. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Sailed _Hannibal_, Commodore Hon. Frederick Grey, _Algiers_, _St. +Vincent_, _Royal William_, _Termagant_, _Sphynx_, and _Gladiator_ with +Russian prisoners. Several pleasure steamers from Stockholm passed on +their way to Bomarsund. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +Three block-ships, with _Bulldog_, bearing flag of Commander-in-Chief, +came down from Bomarsund. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +Dressed ship with masthead flags, and at noon fired a royal salute in +commemoration of Prince Albert’s birthday. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 1.] + +_Cuckoo_ arrived from Bomarsund with flag of Rear-Admiral Seymour, +which was transferred to the _Duke_. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +All the paddle-steamers went up to assist in towing transports with +French troops; they, as well as the French men-of-war, preparing to +quit Bomarsund on the destruction of the forts. + +It was a grand sight, the blowing up of the forts: expensive as well. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 3.] + +Heard that my old shipmate of _Dido_, Jim Hunt, now in command of +_Pigmy_, had gone wrong side of the red buoy and was on shore. Went in +gig to ascertain amount of assistance required. Found that anchor had +been laid out, but the crew were tired or else too lazy to work. It +was evident that they had been observed by Russians on the high ground +beyond the Narrows, and shortly two pieces of artillery hove in sight. + +My boat’s crew were ready to help, when Jim Hunt thus addressed his +crew: + +“The enemy in sight with guns! We shall be made prisoners. You,--you +lazy blackguards, will be marched off to Siberia, fed on sour krout and +tallow candles; while _I_ shall be fêted and fed on shore in the best +society!” + +[Sidenote: Ledsund.] + +The speech told. _Pigmy_ arrived at Ledsund. Field-Marshal Barraguay +d’Hilliers came down from Bomarsund in a French war steamer. Both +fleets manned yards, the flagships saluting, and at 3 P.M. he sailed +for France. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 12.] + +Arrived _La Reine Hortense_, bringing a Field-Marshal’s baton for +General Barraguay d’Hilliers. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 14.] + +_Leopard_, with flag of Rear-Admiral Martin, came from Bomarsund, +having remained to witness destruction of all the works completed. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 19.] + +Fleet weighed per signal and proceeded under steam. French fleet +in company. Formed order of sailing in two columns. French Admiral +saluted. On his salute being returned by the _Duke_, fleet hoisted +French colours. Parted company with French fleet. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +Arrived Russian steamer with flag of truce, and communicated with +Commander-in-Chief. Fleet weighed, proceeding under steam. Formed order +of sailing in two columns. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 21.] + +_Euryalus_ joined company. Came to, per signal, off Nargen Island. + +[Sidenote: Nargen Island, Oct. 10.] + +2 P.M.--Arrived _Bulldog_ with mail. Dressed ship with masthead flags, +and fired a royal salute in commemoration of the victory gained by the +Allied Army at Alma on September 20 in the Crimea. + +[Illustration: _The Battle of the Alma._] + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +Came to in Kiel Harbour. Received the following interesting letter from +my nephew, Augustus Stephenson:-- + + ROOKSBURY, _October 12, 1854_. + + MY DEAR UNCLE--We have this day received your letter of October + 3, and are delighted at so good an account of yourself. + + We hope before you receive this that little Harry will have + rejoined you. + + By your letter I suppose you have heard of the false news we + received here in England of the taking of Sevastopol. + + The news was false at the time; though I believe it was only + premature, as before now, I trust, we are in the possession of + it. + + The papers of to-day say that the bombardment commenced at 5 + P.M. on the 4th of this month. + + You say you now receive no newspapers, though before you + receive this you will no doubt have heard of the glorious + victory of the Alma, on the 20th. + + The despatches are too large to put into this letter, and, + moreover, you must get them before you receive this. + + It seems to have been a wonderful affair. + + Menschikoff, whose private papers, carriage, etc., were taken + by the French, had written to the Emperor to say he could hold + the position for three weeks at least. + + It was stormed in three hours! + + Poor Wenny (Coke), after all his trouble to be in time, was + left in charge of the baggage at Varna! + + We had a letter from him, written in the highest spirits; he + was to have embarked (as he then thought) on the following day. + + Our friends in the Fusilier Guards have been sadly knocked + about. Chewton is reported as having died since. That report + is now contradicted, but he is fearfully wounded. He was + bayonetted on the ground and has eleven wounds. + + Haygarth was lying with his leg broken, and a Russian, + attempting to blow his head off, shot away the upper part of + his shoulder. + + He, however, has got as far as Malta on his way home. + + Astley, I hear, has written home for all his friends in + hospital. He himself is shot through the neck, but says he + would not have been altogether missed on any account! + + Buckley very badly shot. Eumismore many wounds. Black Dal, but + slightly wounded in the knee. Hepburn lost an arm. Bulwer hit + in the head only. + + I believe you know most of these men. You remember Hugh + Drummond at Woolmer; he is reported to have bagged three + Russians, who came at him after his horse was shot, with his + revolvers! + + Burghersh, who brought home the despatches, says that the pluck + of our troops was perfectly wonderful. + + The only Guardsman killed was Cust: leg carried off by a cannon + ball. He died after undergoing amputation. As for family news, + we are all well. I am off to-morrow on my sessions and hope to + come to you when you arrive to welcome you back all safe. + + Love from all to you and the young ’un.--Ever your most + affectionate nephew, + + (Signed) AUGUSTUS K. STEPHENSON. + + +[Sidenote: Kiel, Nov. 9.] + +Dressed with masthead flags, and at noon fired a royal salute in +commemoration of the birth of the Prince of Wales. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +Signal to _Princess Royal_ and _Acre_ to “Prepare for sea.” + +My vanity may be excused in inserting the following paragraph from a +book published recently by my friend Clarence Paget:-- + + At last came the joyful day when we were to return to England. + + We were to hoist Seymour’s flag and take _St. Jean d’ Acre_ + with us. I know not why we were always sent in couples; perhaps + it may be that we were known by the authorities to be what is + called “chummy ships,” but we are always in company, and very + good company she is with her jolly, cheerful skipper, Harry + Keppel, brave as a lion, gentle as a lamb. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Rear-Admiral Michael Seymour hoisted his flag on board _Princess Royal_ +and exchanged salutes with Commander-in-Chief, _Acre_ being placed +under his orders. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +Daylight.--Weighed under steam. Exchanged cheers from rigging with +_James Watt_, George Elliott’s ship, which was disapproved of by signal +from Commander-in-Chief, _Princess Royal_ in company. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Weighed and proceeded under easy steam in wake of flag. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 2.] + +2 P.M.--Furled sails. Came to at 4.30 in West Port, Christiansund. +Landed and bought in market twelve brace of capercailzie. Country +covered with frozen snow, over which we drove in carriages. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +Being the Sabbath, coals not to be obtained until the afternoon, when +_Princess Royal_ took in some from lighters sent alongside, containing +about fifteen tons each. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 4.] + +Decks covered with 5 or 6 inches of snow. Weighed and followed +_Princess Royal_. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Westerly wind and dirty weather. Asked permission, per signal, to stand +in under shelter of Yarmouth. Answer, “Rendezvous, Plymouth,” in case +of parting company. At 7 lost sight of flag. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 9.] + +6.15.--Came to in the Downs. Landed Baltic pilot, he having been on +board nine months, at fifteen shillings a day, without being of the +slightest use. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +2.30 A.M.--Came to in Plymouth Sound. Found _Princess Royal_, _Cæsar_, +and _Monarch_. Saluted flag of Admiral Sir William Parker, K.G.C.B. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 13.] + +Steamed into harbour; ship’s company turned over to _Bellona_ hulk. +Ship taken into Keyham Dock. + +[Sidenote: Plymouth, Dec. 18.] + +Orders to prepare ship for reception of troops, and proceed to the +Crimea. Seeing no other chance I started for London before their +arrival, and was followed by a most kind letter from the First Lord to +dine _en famille_ and so meet his son on Christmas Day. + +What could have been more agreeable? But I had to take leave of a dear +shipmate, Fred Horton, of whom the doctors gave a bad account, to +prepare to receive a General and Staff, and embark 1200 troops at Cork +for the Crimea. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 26.] + +Slipped moorings and proceeded under steam into the Sound. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 30.] + +Received the following from Admiralty:-- + + _December 30, 1854._ + + MY DEAR KEPPEL--Make haste or you will be too late for the fun. + + Admiral Lyons writes in high spirits, date 13th inst. + + Admiral Seymour, to whom I have written, will do all that is + right about cabins for your passengers. + + Lyons is not the man I take him for if he does not find you + something to occupy you, even if you are not in time to charge + the barrier across Sevastopol Harbour.--Yours sincerely, + + (Signed) M. F. H. BERKELEY. + + + + +CHAPTER LV + +THE CRIMEA + + +PLYMOUTH SOUND. + +[Sidenote: 1855. Jan. 1.] + +2 P.M.--Slipped moorings. Came to in the Sound. Obliged to close lower +deck ports to prevent watermen pitching parcels on board for the +Crimea. New Year’s dinner with Admiral Sir William Parker, my old Chief +in China. + +[Sidenote: Plymouth, Jan. 2.] + +Glad to meet again, residing here, Mrs. Keith Stewart; accompanied her +to lunch with Lord Mount Edgcumbe. Dinner with the Charles Edens to +meet my passengers, Generals Barnard and Lord Rokeby. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 3.] + +Lord George Lennox down to sail to Cork with us. 3 P.M.--Crimean +Generals came alongside in a steamer. Was obliged to leave young +Graham, Birch, and George Wodehouse to follow. + +[Sidenote: Cork, Jan. 4.] + +Arrived in afternoon at Cove of Cork, saluting flag of Admiral Carrol. +Generals and I dined with him; Miss Carrol managing her father’s house. + +Received 645 troops, drafts for different regiments in the Crimea, +consisting of the following:-- + + 63rd Regt., 51 men, Lieuts. Hunt and Hand. + 30th Regt., 51 men, Capt. Robertson, Lieut. Hill. + 33rd Regt., 97 men, Capt. Ellis, Lieut. Wallis, Ensign Ellis. + 47th Regt., 67 men, Capt. Elgee. + 41st Regt., 109 men, Capt. Bertram, Lieuts. Lambert and Nowlan. + 17th Regt., 122 men, Capt. Colthurst, Lieut. Thompson, Ensigns + Travis and Disbourne. + 50th Regt., 17 men. + 68th Regt., 17 men. + 55th Regt., 39 men, Lieut. Hannay. + 49th Regt., 67 men, Lieut. Eustace. + 57th Regt., 9 men, Capt. Brown, Lieut. Ashwin. + +Not sorry to receive telegram to wait for Graham. So need not sail on +Friday. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 5.] + +Shifted berth into Fairway. Schetky, late drawing master of Royal Naval +College, breakfasted with me. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 6.] + +Got fairly away by 8 A.M., George Lennox leaving with the pilot. We +exchanged binoculars by mistake. My guests, Generals Barnard and Lord +Rokeby, Colonels Warde and Arthur Lowry Cole, A.D.C’s. Wellesley and +Barnard, all good fellows. Lord Rokeby, a soldier of Waterloo, the +cheeriest of all; but he, poor fellow, had lately lost a promising +young and only son. I was admitted to his confidence. Bright and cheery +as he was in company, it was a sad consolation for him to describe in +private the loss he had sustained; outside, no one could have detected +that he had a trouble in the world. + + * * * * * + +It was the depth of winter. On the way out I had made for my Generals +and Colonels canvas bags, impervious to wet or cold, in which they +could lie down with uniforms on.... + +[Sidenote: Jan. 7.] + +People and luggage beginning to shake down into their places. Officers, +determined to be pleased, made no complaints. Among the passengers were +some for whom it was difficult to find a berth. The good Chaplain +“Thomas” spotted one[2] so situated, and ascertaining that he knew not +where to sleep, put him into his, the Chaplain’s cabin, making for +himself a bed under the wardroom mess-table. + +[2] Lord Dangan, Coldstream Guards. + +[Illustration: _Map--Strait of Gibraltar_] + +[Sidenote: Jan. 11.] + +Soldiers are naturally fond of lounging about the boom-boats. +Discovered afterwards our cheery Irish recruits had devoured half a ton +of raw turnips that had been sent on board for the sheep. + +[Sidenote: Gibraltar, Jan. 12.] + +At sunset we were off the entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar. Strong +easterly wind, and the usual inrush of sea; but as it was about our +dinner time, I had sails furled, and left the Master to steer by the +well-lighted Spanish coast. When I came on the poop-deck, shortly +followed by my guests, a bright light, broad on the port bow, made me +inquire of the Master what it was. He informed me it was Tarifa Point. +Having ascertained the bearings, I saw at once that it must be Europa +Point, some twenty miles in advance, and ordered “Starboard the helm.” + +Twenty years had elapsed since, when in command of _Childers_ brig, I +had made almost monthly visits to meet the English mail at Gibraltar. +My poor nervous Master, who could not have reckoned on the rush of sea +into the Mediterranean, exclaimed, before my Generals and other guests: +“You forget, sir, that you have on board 1200 men in addition to the +ship’s company.” Ordered him to his cabin under arrest! + +What my guests in charge of the 1200 troops must have thought I know +not, but they behaved like the noble fellows they were. I was younger +than most of them, and there must have been many persons on that deck +who can still corroborate what I write. The angle formed in our wake +caused the propelling screw to cut the lead lines, which were also +cut as soon as replaced. However, in a few minutes we had the full +blaze of lights on the Rock itself; the harbour was a mass of shipping. +We could only obtain proper anchorage by passing under the stern of +the largest transport I could find. We had fortunately here about the +most promising of our young Captains, George Grey, in charge of the +dockyard. His perfect arrangements for coaling made the work easy. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 13.] + +Self and party dined with the Governor, Sir Robert Gardiner. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 14.] + +After church visited Pagets; Mrs. Paget, of the charming Williams +family, having just returned. Early dinner with George Grey. 320 tons +of coal on board. Made another start at 11 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 15.] + +The General harangued the troops, while I pitched into sundry +delinquents: effects of coaling! + +[Sidenote: Malta, Jan. 19.] + +At 4 A.M. lights were reported. We entered Malta Harbour at 12.30. +Steamed in and secured to a buoy. + +Commenced coaling, watering, etc. Met H.R.H. The Duke of Cambridge. +The same kind manner, but looking reduced and low in spirits. He +seemed unprepared for the kind and hearty reception that awaited him +on his return home. Put up at Durnford’s Hotel. Saw many old friends: +Pocklington, Fred Arkwright, and others. Stores, horses, cases, etc., +sent on board without mercy. Dined with Admiral Houston Stewart. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +5 P.M.--Slipped from buoy--steamed and made sail. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 23.] + +Entered the Dardanelles. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +At daylight found ourselves in the Sea of Marmora. Kept the northern +coast to avoid current. 10 A.M.--Came to in the entrance to the +Golden Horn, off that wonderful city, Constantinople. + +[Illustration: _Map--The Bosporus_] + +[Sidenote: Jan. 26.] + +Found Rear-Admiral Boxer the senior officer. Frederick Grey, as +Commodore, ready to relieve him. Visited the hospital at Scutari, and +had an interview with Miss Nightingale. Put up at Misseri’s Hotel. +Dined at the Embassy, meeting there Mrs. Ives and Miss Stanley. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 27.] + +After breakfast joined Lady Stratford de Redcliffe’s party, and visited +bazaars, etc., on Constantinople side. Interview and long chat with +Mrs. Ives, Emma Maynard that was. Dined at Embassy in thin boots; a +filthy walk back to hotel. + +[Illustration: St. Jean d’ Acre _off Balaclava_.] + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Weighed at 8 A.M., having slept on shore. + +Cheered _Queen_ and _Vengeance_ on passing them in Beicos Bay. +10.--Entered the Black Sea. Two more friends added to my mess in Hugh +Drummond of Fusilier Guards, and Colonel Norcott of Rifles. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +Wardroom officers gave a dinner to our Generals and staff. Sat down +sixty-three: some speeches made and much harmony. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 30.] + +1 A.M.--Made the Khersonesia Light. 2.--Came to between the _Algiers_ +and _Agamemnon_, the latter flying the flag of Sir Edmund Lyons, off +Sevastopol Harbour. Went on board; found Admiral in bed. At 8, Generals +and self breakfasted with him, and then shifted round to Balaclava. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +[Sidenote: Feb. 1.] + +Generals disembarked this morning. I also landed, and picked up Wenny +Coke, who had a bad cold. Put him on our sick list. The Generals +returned on board to dinner. I had brought some Southdown sheep, +knowing how welcome they would be. After breakfast guests off to their +respective posts. On landing near the head of the harbour, found the +snow a foot deep, with the exception of the foot-trodden paths. + +The Royal Marines occupied the lower ground. To the north, above them, +were the Guards, and on higher land were the 93rd Highlanders. I was +looking for Sir Colin Campbell. + +The first person I came up with was a long soldier, without coat or +jacket, braces hanging down his back, carrying a bucket of water in one +hand, and lugging a goat up with the other. He accosted me with, “How +are you, Keppel?” I replied, “All right, thanks,” and passed on. On +arriving at the Guards’ ground, the first person I saw standing at his +tent door was friend Mark Wood. While chatting, the soldier with braces +down passed. I asked, “Who is that soldier? he seems to know me.” Wood +said, “Of course he does; that is Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar.” + +I found Sir Colin Campbell on the high ground, his jacket flying open +as if it were summer. Our meeting was cordial. I asked him whether +he would have his Southdown cut up, or whole. He preferred it home +fashion, with the saddle. + +I got him to tell me whether it was true he had refused to form square +to resist the Russian Cavalry at Balaclava. He said a double line of +Highlanders was enough, and if I did not mind the snow he would show me +the Russian horses. Seeing the carcases lying in the snow, I remarked I +was not aware that the Russians docked their horses so close; he said +it was done by the French, who took them to make bouillon soup. + +When I got down I was anxious to write my name in Lord Raglan’s book, +and inquired my way to headquarters. A soldier informed me that at the +next bend on the right I should find “a dead horse and a nasty stink on +the left. The same all the way up.” As “all the way up” was four miles, +I preferred returning to the ship. + +[Illustration: “_All the way up._”] + +[Sidenote: Feb. 2.] + +I was flattered to find my Generals preferred sleeping on board; +however, hearing heavy firing in the night, they landed prepared to +fight. Wenny Coke was much amused when he found the Generals went off +so suddenly; he said, if they had only awoke him he could have informed +them the same thing happened every night. Was struck yesterday with the +cheeriness of officers and men. Visited the post-office; observed in +one corner an ominous-looking bag, which appeared full, marked “Dead.” + +The troops, both officers and men, form a motley mixture. It is +difficult to recognise any one by his dress. They have now, when too +late, warm clothing: fur caps, sheep-skin coats, and brown boots. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Sharp frost, with cold cutting wind, it having snowed hard during the +night. Rokeby in his canvas bag, his moustache frozen white. Bromley, +Colonel Carlton, Sir James Dunlop and nephew, Henry Hill, on board +to dine and sleep. Landed Henry with stock of brandy, poultry, and +tongue. Thermometer below 19°. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 4.] + +Carlton and Bromley landed after breakfast, Dunlop and Wenny remaining. +Weighed in afternoon. Anchored off Sevastopol. + +[Sidenote: The Guards’ Camp.] + +While the ship was at Balaclava I met on shore no end of old friends. +In the Guards’ camp, although they, what was left of them, were bright +and cheery, I avoided inquiring about the many I missed. + +I dined quietly one afternoon with my kinsman, Bob Lindsay, but it was +difficult to draw from him what his thoughts and feelings were on the +occasion when he so gallantly carried the Guards’ colours at the Alma. + +There was Billy Russell, ever bright and cheery, but never seemed +inclined to be pumped as to what he had seen and knew. + +I had repeated gallops with one or other of the Inkerman heroes. +When that ride was proposed I never admitted I had been over the +field before, and delighted to hear over and over again answers to my +questions. The most melancholy spectacle was the wretched condition of +the horses, ten and twelve being harnessed to an ammunition waggon that +on other occasions would be drawn by four. + +The painful subject everywhere was the thinned ranks of infantry +regiments. The Guards were reduced from 4100 to 500. Poor Lord Rokeby +tried to hide his tears when he saw the remnant of the Brigade. It will +take from fifteen to twenty years to make them what they were a year +ago. + +After a while no one knew the whole country better than Lord Rokeby. +I enjoyed my rides with him; always as fast as his good mounts could +carry us. + +The barrier of sunken ships across the harbour of Sevastopol I do +not think much of, but there is a mysterious-looking line about two +cables’ length inside the sunken ships that I cannot make out, leading +about two-thirds of the way across. Carlton and Bromley landed after +breakfast, Dunlop and Wenny Coke remaining. Up screw, weighed in +afternoon, and worked round to anchorage off Kamiesch Bay. + +[Sidenote: Kamiesch, Feb. 5.] + +Accompanied Admiral Sir Edmund Lyons on horseback to Lord Raglan’s +headquarters. Very interesting conversation by the way, giving me a +clear insight into state of things. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 6.] + +_Princess Royal_, Captain Lord Clarence Paget, arrived, bringing +General Sir Harry Jones. Received a letter from Lady Wilmot announcing +sad death of my poor Fred Wilmot Horton. Too down to dine with Admiral. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 7.] + +Accompanied Admiral in _Terrible_ to see entrance to the harbour. Ugly +and formidable-looking batteries. Barriers of sunken ships’ bars, +spars, and cables across; some tempting-looking liners inside. Dined +with Sir Edmund. Right man in right place. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 8.] + +George Goldsmith of _Sidon_, 22, paddle wheel, came to a quiet dinner. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 9.] + +Thompson to dinner; he had visited the muddy camp. More snow falling. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 10.] + +Admiral Houston Stewart arrived from Malta in _Spiteful_. Captain Ryder +and young Yorke to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 12.] + +The enemy keeping pace with us in forming defences against our increase +of batteries, likewise in their reinforcements of supplies and troops. +Sevastopol likely to hold out until completely invested. Dined with +Commander-in-Chief. Breeze blowing up, stopped the night. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 14.] + +Telegraph by Admiral; change of Ministry. + +Lord Palmerston, Premier, and Sir James Graham still at Admiralty, +which I like. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 16.] + +Visited our worthy Chief. Flag shifted to the _Royal Albert_. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 17.] + +Charlie Talbot to dine, also Oldfield from the trenches, and Commander +Willie Partridge. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Ship looking clear and clean; herself again. Being near, commenced +building a stable: a weakness I have long had. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Thermometer 7 degrees below freezing. French ship on shore, must go +to pieces. (Which she did with a cargo of horses and bullocks. Seven +horses saved out of forty. No human lives lost.) + +[Illustration: _How the Guards looked._] + +[Sidenote: Feb. 23.] + +Mail in. F. Johnson promoted. Good fellow--a loss to us. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 24.] + +Carpenters while on shore erecting stables, discovered a small French +town, which smelt so strongly of brandy that my building was delayed. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 25.] + +Dined with the Admiral. _Rodney_ laid up near, crew had landed with +Naval Brigade, she having no steam power. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 27.] + +Walk on shore with Talbot. Stable progressing. + +Sad quantity of dead horses about. Of a fresh heap of eighteen, several +appeared in good condition. Dined with Talbot. The horses were French. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 28.] + +Mail in during the night. Harry Stephenson has entered the navy, his +brother Sussex in the Fusilier Guards. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 1.] + +Another “no communication” day. My company, young Stanley Graham, +recovering from chickenpox. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 2.] + +Went in with portmanteau to dine with Admiral. Put up by Mends. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 3.] + +After breakfast went to see Jack Lyons in _Miranda_, and then outside +to George Goldsmith, _Sidon_; with him paid an interesting visit to +the extreme left of the French lines and into the ruins of Khersonese. +Dined with Admiral and slept on board. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 4.] + +Visit from George Broke of _Gladiator_, also George Goldsmith. Webb +from _Australia_ and Dalyell. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 5.] + +Curious to see the temporary towns and shops established by the French. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 6.] + +On going on board to dine with Admiral, heard of the Emperor of +Russia’s death. On returning communicated same to Charlie Talbot and +Clarence Paget. Curious the unsettled state of mind people are in, +through the Czar’s death. What strange surmises as to the future. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 8.] + +Early arrival of mail. News anything but cheery. Sir James Graham no +longer First Lord. Kind letter from him. Bread riots. No Government. +Well-earned good service pension to Milne. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 9.] + +Accompanied Admiral Houston Stewart in _Beagle_ steamer to Balaklava. +Found guards quartered close. Wenny Coke, Robert Lindsay, and other +friends dined with Lord Rokeby. Put up on board _Diamond_ with Peel. +Great improvements in Balaklava. Harbour crowded. Dangerous quantity of +powder afloat. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 10.] + +Peel and I, mounted by Sir Colin Campbell, rode to St. George’s +Monastery. Beautiful scenery, ditto weather. Peace and quiet. Strange +contrast with encampments close by. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +Omar Pasha arrived in _Valourous_. Cheered him in passing. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 13.] + +Maitland Lennox and his artillery brother to dine and stay the day on +board. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Outside squadron dining with Houston-Stewart. Jolly! + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +Brisk exchange of shots between the front and Russians. No results. +Dined with Clarence Paget. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +Dined with Commander-in-Chief. Death of the Russian Admiral Istoma, one +of the perpetrators of the Sinope tragedy. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 21.] + +A man died this morning from a virulent attack of smallpox. Dined with +Commander-in-Chief, having previously taken Dalrymple Hay a walk. + +[Sidenote: Off Sevastopol, Mar. 22.] + +Dined with Pasley on board _Agamemnon_: we had been messmates when I +was a mid in _Tweed_. Play on board _Algiers_, C. Talbot. Acting good. +Heavy firing. Town apparently on fire. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +General Barnard having sent a horse, rode to the front. After luncheon +walked into the trenches to see the effect of last night’s attack on +our lines. + +[Sidenote: Camp, Mar. 24.] + +Flag of truce hoisted at noon for two hours to enable both sides to +bury their dead. Extraordinary sight. Russians, French, and English +mixed, looking for their respective dead. 500 corpses lying about. +Walked at night with friend General Charles Windham. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Attended divine service in the open air. 4th Division of the army +square formed. Parson with moustache! Ride with General Barnard to +the site of the charge at Inkerman. Dined with the general, meeting +Charles Windham, who agrees with me about employing the ships to +draw fire off the trenches. Interesting view of the town, also the +fortifications recently made by the Russians. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 26.] + +Attended races of 3rd Division. Curious and novel sight: soldiers and +sailors only. Put up on board _Gladiator_, Captain Broke, now Sir +George, and son of the famous _Shannon_ and _Chesapeke_ hero. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +Returned on board after inspecting stables and my new old pony. Walk +with Thompson: had to bob to a Russian shell, my gold lace cap having, +they said, attracted attention. Two 10½-inch Russian shells not +exploded, had them conveyed on board. + +Pasley, M‘Cleverty, and Elphinstone to dine. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +Another case of smallpox. Admiral suggested our getting under weigh, by +way of cutting off communication. Thought it advisable to have mids and +youngsters vaccinated; having the necessary lymph on board, they were +ordered to my cabin. Some, seeing the doctor’s preparations, rather +hesitated, on which I requested the surgeon to perform on me first, +when all went on smoothly. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +Weighed at daylight, running past the entrance of the harbour, and +came to off Eupatoria. Hoisted quarantine flag. George Hastings came +alongside. Omar Pasha’s army is encamped in the town. + + + + +[Illustration: _Omar Pasha’s Arab._] + +CHAPTER LVI + +_ST. JEAN D’ ACRE_ + + +[Sidenote: 1855. Eupatoria, April 3.] + +Landed yesterday and paid a visit to the Turkish Admiral and Omar +Pasha. He is a fine-looking man. It is astonishing the excellent +earthworks his army have thrown up round Eupatoria during the last +fortnight. The place is now secure against surprise or assault. Omar +mounted me on his favourite charger, an Arab said to be very valuable. +Never saw so beautiful an animal. Rode with a party and visited the +Turkish advanced cavalry picquets. + +The country round Eupatoria is a vast open plain, with here and there +hillocks supposed to be of Roman construction. On these the advanced +Turkish picquets were stationed in pairs. A short distance beyond them +were the advanced Russian picquets, looking warlike. Behind them again +were different squadrons of cavalry, all ready mounted for work. But on +Omar’s charger I was safe. He has more than 45,000 men, 7000 of which +are cavalry and artillery. I cannot say when I have had so interesting +a day. + +Had party on board to dine. Colonel Simmonds, Ogilvie, and Commanders +present. Weighed at midnight. Nineteen cases of smallpox. Took +Surgeon with me to the Admiral, and got permission to land on a small +uninhabited island and build huts. + +[Sidenote: April 4.] + +Weighed at daylight; went on shore at Balaklava to get huts from +Admiral Boxer, who had not turned out. Boxer was a salt of the old +school. He gave me the order for the houses, and advised me to go on +shore and rouse up the soldiers in charge, and he would follow. On +my remarking that he had not breakfasted, he replied--“I am an old +first lieutenant, and always breakfasts with me hat under the table.” +Returned to Kazatch, selected ground, marked out sites, and had two +houses up by sunset. Yellow flags hoisted and regular lazaretto +established. + +[Sidenote: April 5.] + +Thirty-nine cases of smallpox. Hospital establishment creditable to the +designer. Patients doing well. Landed band in afternoon to cheer them. +At suggestion of surgeon, walked through my newly erected hospital; +airy and clean. The smallpox room was a trial. Having obtained the +names, I endeavoured to say something consoling to each. Their heads +were swollen into the shape and appearance of huge plum-puddings: eyes +closed--their own mothers could not have recognised them. Prompted by +the doctor, I was enabled to say something cheery to each and could see +by a slight move of their heads that it gave pleasure. + +[Sidenote: April 6.] + +Building huts, making wells and wards about the hospital--an amusement! + +[Sidenote: April 11.] + +_Banshee_ arrived with mail, little Harry on board; just in time to see +the bombardment. + +[Sidenote: Letter to H.F.S. April 13.] + +The nearest point to us is the entrance left of the French +entrenchment, abutting on the sea. This entrenchment and battery being +“end on,” we see the Frenchmen load and fire and crouch down. We see +the Russians doing the same. We easily trace the whole course of the +shells, see them burst, sometimes throwing heaps of earth and dirt over +the men as they throw themselves down when they see or hear the missive +coming. + +Higher up in the landscape we see the famous Round Tower and the +Mamelon (this last the one the French never ought to have allowed +the Russians to take), keeping up a desperate fire on Gordon’s and +Chapman’s batteries, which is returned with interest; then again, +further still, are ours and the French batteries blazing away on the +Russian fort, while they in the background are firing from numerous +newly-raised batteries on the Inkerman heights to the north of the +Khersonese. + +When it is calm or the wind off the land, the concussion from the +reports of the guns shakes the ship. This is kept up night and day, at +least it has been so for the last four days, and will go on. + +We cannot well make out the amount of damage done to the Russian +batteries, but the fire from them gets very slack towards the +afternoon, and sometimes is silenced altogether; but they manage to +repair damages in the dark, and commence in the morning much the +same. Nearer to us we have seen the Frenchmen’s battery, considerably +damaged, but they replace their gabions and sand-bags, and go at it +again. In fact, judging from the supply of shot and shell in rear of +his battery, the enemy means to keep the ball going for some time. + +We get occasional accounts from the camp. Up to yesterday the +bluejackets appear to have suffered most. Two lieutenants, Twyford +and Douglas, killed. Captain Lord John Hay wounded, jaw broken, teeth +knocked out and throat cut by the fragment of a shell: doing well +though, and wishes to return to the trenches. Seventy-six seamen _hors +de combat_, and Lord Raglan asking for more. They are decidedly the +best shots, but take no care of themselves. + +I am sorry the town of Sevastopol shows as yet little or no symptoms +of damage: on the top of one of their sea batteries, I can see ladies +admiring, as we suppose, our Fleet. While all this is going on on shore +we (French and English ships) form a long and imposing line across the +harbour. Our daily routine, muster, bands playing; everything going on +as if we were in Plymouth Sound or at Spithead. + +[Sidenote: Journal.] + +Visited hospital, all patients except one doing well. Pasley and Talbot +to dine. Paget and Drummond went into the harbour after dark in the +_Valourous_, and caused a slight diversion by opening fire on the forts. + +[Sidenote: April 14.] + +With Admiral to visit Lord Raglan: unusual on mail departure days. + +[Sidenote: April 15.] + +Until the place is invested cannot see use of the present expenditure +of ammunition. + +About this time Clarence Paget conceived the idea of placing two lights +on shore in such a position that, by bringing them in one, we might +on the darkest nights approach the batteries and deliver our fire in +succession; in the hope that the enemy, not being able to see the +ships, would fire at random and probably miss us, whereas we, knowing +exactly the distance and direction, could point our guns with unerring +aim. Sir Edmund Lyons, as stated by Paget, brightened on the occasion. +Paget with his master had sounded the line the ships had to take. I +expected great things of my _Jenny d’ Acre_ when her turn should come. + +[Illustration: _Headquarters._] + +This was _Gladiator’s_ turn for night attack on batteries, and as +it would be my “_Jenny d’ Acre’s_” turn next, I got friend Broke to +take me on board a little after midnight. All lights out, the paddles +just turning noiselessly. I was on the paddle-box when a flash from +the shore and the approach of a burning fuse showed how correctly the +Russians had calculated the spot. The master fell just before me, and +the shell exploded over the opposite box, while a third person fell +from the bridge. On inquiry I found that no one was hurt. The master +from the _Princess Royal_ was on the bridge and had thrown himself +down. The officer on the opposite bridge had done likewise. The young +man who fell off the bridge had taken his tea a little too strong, and +lost his balance; no harm done. + +[Sidenote: April 17.] + +Fresh case of smallpox, ditto breaking out in _Royal Albert_, sent +their cases to our new hospital. With permission of Admiral, shifted +berth to off Kazatch, to finish hospital. Landed strong party. Dined +with Houston-Stewart. + +[Sidenote: April 21.] + +Oldfield in from trenches. Respite from firing. Things much the same as +when trenches opened first. + +[Sidenote: April 22.] + +Visit from Inspector of Hospitals, Dr. Deas. + +[Sidenote: April 23.] + +Order from Commander-in-Chief to hoist quarantine flag, and consider +ourselves in strict quarantine. + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +Lord Rokeby and Baillie having come down, met them at stables with +luncheon. Great farce this quarantine! + +[Sidenote: May 2.] + +Invited to meet Admiral on shore. Plan for an attack on Kertch with +12,000 French and 3000 English discussed. No work, though, for these +big ships. _Alma_ troopship arrived. Friend John Astley, recovered from +his wound in the neck at Alma, rejoined Fusilier Guards. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +Interruption in hospital works. General signal for captains and +ordinary sailing: rendezvous and places of landing issued. Things +looking more like business. Weighed at 8 P.M., and steered towards +Odessa, altering course for eastward after dark. + +[Sidenote: May 4.] + +Early morning found Fleet enveloped in fog. Marines preparing to land. +Fog dispelled by heat of sun. Signal, to cook three days’ provisions. +Weather fine, all hands full of hope and expectation. As we drew near, +general signal for “Captains to repair on board flag.” Disappointment +great when it was announced that the expedition was at an end. French +Admiral being recalled by Canrobert. + +[Sidenote: Kertch, May 5.] + +Before we turned our sterns on Kertch, Lord Lyons told me that he +had tried to persuade General Brown, who commanded our troops, to go +on with the forces _we_ had to Kertch. But the strict disciplinarian +declined. Had he consented, on the appearance of our top-gallant yards +above the horizon, the Kertch forts, which had had been prepared a +month previously, would have been blown up, the war ended, and millions +saved to the country. + +[Sidenote: Kazatch Bay, May 6.] + +Ran ahead of Fleet and came to before 8, off Kazatch Bay. Cutter +capsized in sailing on shore. Pilkington in her. No one drowned. Rode +“Bashi” up to headquarters. Returned with Admirals. Blowing fresh, so +did not dine with them. + +[Sidenote: May 8.] + +Arthur Williams came on board, having arrived in _Himalaya_ from India +with his charming wife. All smallpox cases being in hospital, could +put my friends up on board. Admiral Houston-Stewart to call upon Mrs. +Williams. + +[Sidenote: May 9.] + +Williams, Colville, and Foley down from camp to dine. Friends Talbot, +Horton, and others to dinner. Found Arthur Taylor had called on board, +having arrived in charge of artillery in cargo transport. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Dined with Admiral H. Stewart to meet Commander-in-Chief. Foley and +Colville coming down from camp. + +[Sidenote: May 13.] + +Held survey on and invalided Captain Sir George Broke. After divine +service, sent friends in launch and took Mrs. Ives in gig to Streletska +Bay; landed and visited French trenches and left attack. Dined in +Wardroom. + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +Dined with Pasley. Received pictures of Nelson and Lyons. Foley and +Colville took their departure for camp in the afternoon. + +[Sidenote: May 15.] + +Dined with Pasley--best cook in the Fleet. + +[Sidenote: May 16.] + +Friends from camp--Wenny Coke, Bob Lindsay, Thynne of Rifles, Baillie, +and Fraser, the Master of Lovat, to dinner. Jolly party, having killed +the last of my Southdowns. Baillie and Fraser returning at night. + +[Sidenote: May 17.] + +Commander-in-Chief promising to dine, prepared accordingly. Admiral +Stewart sending me turtle soup and fish. Lord Rokeby down too in time +from camp. Baillie. Seventeen to, for these times, a first-rate dinner. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +Dined with Commander-in-Chief, to meet Mrs. F. Grey. + +[Sidenote: May 20.] + +With Admirals to visit by water, in _Telegraph_ steamer, Prince +Woronzoff’s place Onianda Aloupka, the Emperor’s Palace, and village +of Yalta. Mrs. F. Grey, Mrs. and Miss Stewart, Lady George Paget, Lord +Burgesh, Rose, and others, an agreeable party. Admiral, however, was +obliged to go to headquarters. Found _Enchantress_ yacht, Sir Thomas +Whichcote, with Freke and George Bentick on board; offered to tow him +to Kertch! Another expedition decided on. + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Dined with Wardroom officers to celebrate two years in commission. + +[Sidenote: May 22.] + +Called on board _York Herald_, Captain Furber, meeting Mrs. Pentland, +and Miss Furber. + +[Illustration: _Map of Crimea._] + + + + +CHAPTER LVII + +SECOND EXPEDITION TO KERTCH + + +[Sidenote: 1855. May 22.] + +I thought this would be a pleasant trip for my yacht friends in the +_Enchantress_, and advised Whichcote to be prepared after dark to pick +up the end of a hawser with as little noise as possible, which he would +find over the stern of the _St. Jean d’ Acre_, and not cast off until +he heard from me; and gave _Stella_ the option of doing likewise. + +At 8.10 P.M. we were moving in line as slowly as the screw would allow, +when we perceived the P. & O. steamer _Colombo_, carrying troops, on +starboard bow, creeping out from one of the small inlets, so near that +unless she at once stopped she must foul us. + +We hailed without effect. We could not stop without fouling next +astern: a musket was fired. _Colombo_ stopped, but too late. A crash, +and I saw a twelve-foot figurehead drop with a loud splash into the +water. My tows astern, not injured. We had quietly embarked 600 Turkish +troops. + +[Sidenote: Theodosia, May 23.] + +Dense fog during the night. Fleet assembled during the day, and I had +time to seek the _Colombo_, whose captain found his way on board the +_Acre_. Something was wrong with the machinery; he had been unable to +stop his ship in time to save her figurehead. The Crimea is to Russia +what the Isle of Wight might be to England. + +[Sidenote: Kertch, May 24.] + +Arrived at Kertch. Army landed during the afternoon and bivouacked on +the beach. _Princess Royal_ and _St. Jean d’ Acre_ had similar cargoes +of Turkish troops, which we landed without either trouble or complaint. +The Russians blew up their magazine, set fire to their stores, ships, +etc. + +A large open space appeared to be covered with tumuli, varying in +size, shaped like the roofs of barns, from which you could not see far +without mounting to the top, as Clarence Paget and I did, selecting the +highest. + +From the top, not more than three miles distant, we saw the Russians +evacuating the Citadel. A battery of artillery faced the spot where our +troops had landed. In rear of the guns, the Russians, bag and baggage, +were retreating. + +We returned to the landing-place, and had to pass through a regiment of +French Rifles enjoying a rest and sleep in the sun. Paget, who spoke +French, told the French officer commanding that there were a thousand +Russian troops passing within three miles of him. The officer appeared +not to credit the statement, whereupon Paget put his glass into his +hand and asked him to mount the nearest tumulus and see for himself. + +The officer then drew his sword, calling out, “Aux armes,” in which he +was joined by the whole regiment. A mile of fishermen’s nets were soon +in a blaze. Later in the afternoon I took young Stephenson, when we +mounted on one of these tumuli and noticed a Russian galloping towards +us. + +The troops of the expedition were now all alive and had formed across +the small peninsula in open skirmishing order, and were advancing to +capture the small garrison which Paget and I had seen pass out towards +Arabat four hours previously. The Russian was unaware of the danger he +was galloping into; he pulled up, but, not understanding us, galloped +on. It was now time for us to retreat within our own lines. The +Russian, too, who had seen our skirmishers, was in full retreat. + +[Sidenote: Kertch, May 25.] + +The next day I went into Kertch in a steamer with Sir Edmund Lyons and +party, and had no difficulty in recognising our Russian friend owner of +the fishing nets, as well as other property. In the afternoon joined +Paget in a foraging party. Took thirty-five bullocks for the Fleet, and +milch cows for ourselves. + +[Sidenote: May 27.] + +Dundas, Turner, and Peck on board to church. Dined on board +_Enchantress_. + +[Sidenote: May 29.] + +Remained on board, admiring Brierly’s Baltic sketches. Dined with +Houston-Stewart. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +Landed abreast of ship and got some green gooseberries, big enough for +a tart. Dined with Pasley on board _Agamemnon_. + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +Admiral made signal for opportunity to go to Kertch and Yenkali. +Visited Sir George Brown and the camp. On return found news from Sea of +Azov of smart doings there by squadron. Dined with Commander-in-Chief. + +[Sidenote: June 1.] + +Launches off at daylight to join force in Sea of Azov. Took cruise in +_Stella_ yacht with Frankland. Arrival of 3000 troops from Balaclava. +Farewell dinner to Whichcote and party on board _Enchantress_. + +[Sidenote: June 2.] + +Lieutenant H.S.H. Prince Victor of Hohenlohe joined. Party to dinner, +Pasley, Paget, Talbot, Prince Victor, Frankland from _Stella_, and +Jackson. + +[Sidenote: June 3.] + +Dined self and youngsters, Prince Victor, Graham, Stephenson, and +Campbell, with Admiral Houston-Stewart. + +[Sidenote: June 4.] + +A cruise with Frankland and Jackson in _Stella_ to Yenkali; council of +war being held there. Spoony decision not to go to Anapa: younger blood +required in council. + +[Sidenote: June 5.] + +Dined with Commander-in-Chief to meet the French and Turkish Admirals. + +[Sidenote: June 6.] + +News of energetic proceedings in the Sea of Azov; proof of the +advantage of employing young men. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +Cruise in _Stella_. Landed on sandy spit, Asiatic side; tried to stalk +a Cossack. Picked up some sea-birds eggs much the same as plovers. +Signal from flag, “Obstacles removed and free to be attacked.” + +[Sidenote: June 9.] + +Mamelon taken by the French. Kertch Government buildings on fire. War, +a terrible thing! + +[Sidenote: June 11.] + +Accompanied Commander-in-Chief on farewell visit to Kertch. Dined with +him; got permission to go in _Stella_ to Anapa. Took Prince Victor, and +weighed before turning in. + +[Sidenote: June 12.] + +Arrived off Anapa by breakfast time. Place in ruins; picturesque +Circassians moving about. + +[Sidenote: June 13.] + +After breakfast returned to Kertch Straits. Not sorry to find our +allies had already started. + +[Sidenote: June 14.] + +Fleet weighed at daylight to visit the deserted Anapa; remained a +couple of hours there. Ice the only thing worth bringing away. 8 +P.M.--Picked up _Stella_ and took her in tow. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +In running in, ship grounded off Sevastopol. Not my fault this time! +Got off, too, without damage. + +[Sidenote: June 16.] + +Brierly mounted on “Bashi,” self on “Princess,” rode up to camp. Dined +with Admiral Houston-Stewart after hot ride to headquarters. Champagne +iced. + +[Sidenote: June 17.] + +All in high force at the idea of entering Sevastopol to-morrow. + +[Sidenote: Off Sevastopol, June 18.] + +Got under weigh at 2.30 A.M. Strongly impressed that this would be the +anniversary of another glorious victory. But it was not to be. The +French attack on the Malakoff and the English on the Redan repulsed +with loss. Sad! Sad! _We_ cruising off the harbour. + +There was no particular order of sailing. _St. Jean d’ Acre_ drifted +near enough to tempt a fire from the northern entrance to the harbour, +and for us to see our troops retreat from the Redan! + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +Landed in Italiska Bay, and rode part of the way to headquarters with +Maitland Lennox; returned in time for Admiral Houston-Stewart’s dinner +to meet Commander-in-Chief. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +Brierly back from camp, and with him William Colville to stay a few +days. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +On examination of mids, passed three: young Graham first class. + +[Sidenote: June 23.] + +Preparation by Quartermaster John Shepherd to destroy, alone, a Russian +three-decker. Called with Clarence Paget on newly-made French Admirals. +On return found St. George Foley from camp, attached to General +Pellissier. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Took John Shepherd to Admiral. Landed St. George Foley at Streletska. +Received General Codrington on board _Acre_. He with self and friends +dined in Wardroom. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +Arthur Williams and his charming wife on board, he returning to camp +after dinner. + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +Firing from batteries slack. Colonel Campbell and Colonel Pereira of +90th. Phipps and Kingston to dinner. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +Telegraphic signal announcing the sad intelligence of Lord Raglan’s +death. A leader not to be replaced. Friend Lord Mark Kerr arrived at +Balaclava from Gibraltar in command of 13th Regiment. + + + + +CHAPTER LVIII + +NAVAL BRIGADE + + +[Sidenote: 1855. July 3.] + +A report going that George King, commanding _Rodney_, 74, whose crew, +she having no steam power, had been landed with the Naval Brigade, was +about to invalid. It occurred to me that nothing could be done afloat +with a dual command, and that if George King would, with Admiral’s +approval, exchange ships, I might stand a chance of seeing more service +on shore than afloat. Mine was a selfish idea. If ever a man was proud +of, and happy in, his ship it was myself. + +Consulted my kind friend Admiral Sir Edmund Lyons, who required time to +consider. My brother officers decidedly disapproved. Dined early with +Houston-Stewart to attend later the embarkation of the remains of Lord +Raglan, deeply lamented, on board the _Caradoc_, Commander Derriman. It +was an imposing but sad spectacle. + +The Admiral having approved of the exchange, allowed _Acre_ to be +shifted into Kazatch Bay. Now it was settled, a sinking of the heart +came on at the idea of removing myself from the good fellows with whom +I had been serving. + +[Sidenote: July 7.] + +I had promised Lady Churston, Sir Robert Newman’s sister, to remove his +remains from “a green field through which ran a small stream by the +stump of a tree.” + +This was my only description. To Cathcart’s Hill, however, I had sent +a party from the _Rodney_, early, with the necessary implements to +work through granite, and when about it to make a grave large enough +to hold two. It took me hours to find the place. At last I examined a +space occupied by 3000 Turkish soldiers without a particle of green on +it. Stumps of two small trees, a quarter of a mile apart, caused me to +think they could not now be standing unless fed by water. + +We had not far to dig. I had prepared a coffin large enough to hold +that in which poor Newman might have been buried. But, alas! we found +only bones, rats had been at work. The only thing that made me believe +I had the right remains was a pair of brown silk socks. All we could +collect was carefully arranged, and the coffin screwed down: the Union +Jack spread over it. + +[Sidenote: July 9.] + +Rode to the artillery camp at Balaklava, and obtained from the officer +in charge a corporal and a six-horse limber waggon, on which the coffin +was placed. + +With my smart corporal we rode through the camp on our five or six +mile journey. Among others we met Honourable William Colville of Rifle +Brigade; he was a good draughtsman, and kindly dismounted, taking from +his sabretasche pencil and paper, and made a sketch of this cavalcade +for me to send to Newman’s sister. + +[Illustration: _Sketch by Col. Hon. W. Colville._ + +_Jack, to newly-arrived subaltern, “Sorry I can’t obleege you with a +horse, but I have a quiet dromedary I can sell you.”_] + +[Sidenote: July 10.] + +After breakfast read commission on board _Rodney_, King reading his on +board _St. Jean d’ Acre_. Sad day for me. In the evening escorted Mrs. +Williams on board _Europa_ for passage to Scutari. Dined with Charlie +Talbot on board _Algiers_. + +[Sidenote: July 11.] + +Early dinner in Wardroom. Pretended to be going to _Rodney_, and so +avoided taking leave of my good fellows. Young Harry Stephenson and +Thompson transferred to _Rodney_. + +[Sidenote: July 12.] + +Dined with General Barnard, who had just been appointed Chief of Staff. + +[Sidenote: July 13.] + +Dined with General Simpson, now Commander-in-Chief, and reminded him +of our meeting at his mess when he commanded the 29th at Mauritius in +1829, I then a mid of the _Tweed_. + +[Sidenote: Letter to M. S. July 14.] + +Find our Jacks queer fellows; they deal in horses or anything else, +and as soon as they come out of the trenches they are all over the +soldiers’ camps, doing work for the officers, repairing tents and that +sort of thing, receiving part payment in grog, and then share it with +the first “soger” they meet. + +I avoid too many restrictions, as long as men appear at the 10 A.M. +muster, properly dressed, with their arms cleaned and correct, with +correct numbers of the men and battery they have to relieve. They are +then dismissed, and find their own way by trenches or over the open. In +a body they are pretty sure to draw the enemy’s fire. + +[Sidenote: In Camp, July.] + +In our camp we are tolerably comfortable. My tent is pitched on a +patch of ground on the edge of a hill. There is a long open avenue in +front, on either side are the tents of the officers and seamen, which +they decorate in the most fantastic way. All sorts of devices for +weathercocks, etc. The shells that annoy us most are those that burst +in the air. We are very close to one another in some places, but I +expect we shall soon shut the Russians up, as they fire very wild when +fired at; our fellows are as steady as ever; the more casualties, the +more jokes are cracked! + +In front of our batteries, between us and the Redan and Malakoff +Towers, are the trenches, and the Quarries, formerly a Russian +position--taken by us before Inkerman, at present held by the guards +and other troops. While no particular bombardment is going on, our +orders are, to watch the enemy’s batteries, and only fire on them +when they fire on our advanced parties in the trenches, so that the +soldiers are, in a measure, partly under our protection. In this way +we get some pretty shooting. A shell from the Redan bursts over our +soldiers in the trenches; bang goes an 8-inch shell from the sailors’ +battery, generally right into the embrasure, from which the mischief +came. Another shell reaches them from our Left Attack. The French, +too, take it up and pop one into them from the Mamelon, and then for +the next half-hour a general scrimmage takes place, exciting to a +degree. A very little precaution teaches you to know, by every gun that +the enemy fires, whether they are shot or shell. The shot we do not +care for. I saw one of our Jacks make a low bow to a shot that he saw +coming directly at him: at the right moment he bobbed his head, and +it passed about a foot above his body. There are small hollow places +on ground above our batteries in which sailors are employed making +gabions: having expended their materials the bluejackets were amusing +themselves by running at one another with the gabions over their heads, +when an enemy’s shell exploded without serious damage to any one. +Most of the shot strike the parapet and throw a cloud of dust, dirt, +and small stones into our batteries. Each day I have been so covered +that you could not have told the proper colour of my dress. The shot +are very good fun, but the shells are beastly things from which it is +difficult to escape. They are no respecters of persons. On Sunday a +man was killed by the fragments of a shell while he was sitting in the +supposed most secure place inside the entrance to one of our magazines. + +[Illustration: _Sketch by Col. Hon. W. Colville. 1855. + +In Rear of the Lancaster Battery_] + +Wenny Coke goes into the trenches to-night, and to-morrow I shall be +in our batteries all day and will give such a dusting to any Russian +battery that has the impudence to molest my favourite Fusiliers. I am +going to take grub, and have invited Wenny to dinner in the deepest +part of his trench. Had I had time, I could fill a quire with the +absurdities of the soldiers as well as sailors, who have given many +a good laugh. Directly little Harry heard of my appointment, he got +leave and galloped up to my tent. + +[Sidenote: July 15.] + +Visited our right division in trenches. Thompson performing divine +service in open air to the Naval Brigade; “Little Harry” with him. A +man killed while sitting in the battery reading his Bible. + +[Sidenote: July 16.] + +Among arrivals from home in Balaklava was a cargo of ice for use of +Naval Brigade hospitals. For some unknown reason doctors objected +to receive ice in the hospitals! After my superiors afloat had been +supplied, the Commander of the Naval Brigade came in for a share. We +were not far from the French headquarters. I sent a couple of blocks +to General Pellissier, who invited me to _déjeuner_. He had clever +fittings with green branches, etc., for luxury and comfort reminding me +of Vauxhall gardens in bygone times. Dined with General Barnard. + +[Sidenote: Letter to H. F. S. July 18.] + +Wenny Coke in the trenches last night bowled over by a spent round. +On visiting his tent I found him cheery, but round shot don’t touch +gently. I was about to sit on a fur coat, rolled up near the head of +his bed, when he called out, “Don’t sit there, Uncle Harry. A cat from +Sevastopol came out last night and dropped nine kittens in the sleeve!” + +Shepherd, one of the petty officers of the _St. Jean d’Acre_, had +conceived the idea that he could, single-handed, blow up a man-of-war +in Sevastopol harbour. The contrivance appeared simple enough. I had +already taken him with his apparatus to the Admiral, who was amused and +approved, leaving the time for the experiment to me. The plan was this. +To prepare a light iron case a foot long by eighteen inches, with a +loop at each end. The case to be fitted with a Bickford’s fuse, which +burns under water. A sort of canvas duck punt was to be fitted to +exactly hold the case amidships. The after part was to hold one sitter, +who could easily steer with a canoe paddle without noise. The Russians +had been in the habit of sending three or four thousand men across +the entrance end of the harbour. The night fire of war-ships had so +inconvenienced this passage of their transport boats, they shifted the +line of their passage higher up the harbour. + +The dark night for our expedition arrived at last. The spot for +embarkation was only separated by a spur of land covered by thick scrub +and bush, but the darkness of the night enabled our guide to take us to +the water. At half-past twelve the punt left the rough slips and was +immediately lost to sight, nor was there the slightest sound. At the +expiration of three hours nothing had occurred, and there were signs +of daybreak. With us was Colonel St. George Foley, attached to General +Pellissier’s staff. We were within range of the Russian sentries, and +had to creep through scrub and bushes until we were inside the French +lines: we soon commenced on our refreshments. I was distressed at +having helped to lose poor John Shepherd--as, if caught, he would be +shot as a spy. St. George Foley was put out at the loss of his horse, +servant, and haversack. My coxswain, who, I think, had been washing his +mouth out, was sent in search among an acre of gun carriages, waggons, +etc., and returned, announcing to Foley that “The beggar was gone, but +had left his painter.” Poor Foley applied for explanation. Painter was +a rope spliced in a ring in the bow of a boat, and most likely the +horse had slipped his head out of halter and gone home--the servant +losing no time in following. In fact, all during the night the white +light of shells had been flying over our heads from three different +Russian batteries at a French mortar battery. Great was my delight an +hour after my arrival in camp to hear of Shepherd’s safe return. The +plucky fellow had pulled past and between a number of Russian steamers, +and was within 400 yards of the three-deckers, when a whole string of +Russian boats pushed off from the western shore to convey troops across. + +For an hour he lay in his little punt hoping for an opening to pass +through. Daylight came and he had not time to return the distance to +where we were; he therefore struck at once for Careening Bay, one side +of which he knew was in the possession of the French. Lord Charles +Paget’s plan of night attack had caused the Russians to change the +route for conveying reliefs across. + +[Sidenote: July 19.] + +On returning from batteries got news of Lushington’s promotion and my +appointment to the command of the Naval Brigade! Lucky dog that I am! + +[Sidenote: July 20.] + +Early ride to Kamiesch and breakfast with the Admiral. Kind and +confidential chat. + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +Assumed command of Naval Brigade: Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, A.D.C.; +Rev. Josiah Thompson, Chaplain; forage allowance for five horses. + +Early morning, a cavalry corporal with two orderlies at my tent door. +Reported myself at headquarters. + +[Sidenote: July 22.] + +Sunday, divine service in open air. Visited Right Attack and Quarries +with Sir Harry Jones; dined with him. + +[Sidenote: In the batteries of Naval Brigade, July 23.] + +Instructions from headquarters to prepare for a sortie, and that I had +better communicate with the General at the Quarries. The day was far +advanced: a storm brewing. Had an experienced and good officer in +Captain Moorsom, who had been in the Naval Brigade from the beginning. +Of course Moorsom opened a sharp fire on the Russian batteries, which +eventually drew part of their fire off our advanced trenches. He knew +the bearings of the Russian forts on which our batteries could tell +best. Could not do better than leave him in charge, while I went to +the quarries for further instruction. Storm commencing, shifted into +pea-jacket and jack-boots, sword and cap. Rain fell heavily. Zig-zags +being on the slope, I was soon washed out and took to the open. Dark, +too, came on with the storm; lost my way, but knew by descending, +and the constant discharge of musketry, I must come to our own +troops--which I did; but no one could hear or attend to me. I knew not +the way. Took to the right. Came on the Guards, whom I knew by their +bearskins; they were equally busy. It was no use pulling their coats; +the thunder of guns and muskets rendered one’s voice equally useless, +so crept on. The storm began to break. Laid hold of a soldier’s coat +and bellowed to him. He bellowed “sergeant,” who bellowed me what my +name was. When I told him, he said: “That lie won’t do. I know Captain +Keppel of the Grenadiers. You must come to our officer.” I pleaded +inability to walk further. Another bearskin on my left! No alternative. +The storm and sortie were over. + +By the time we reached the officers, they were enjoying a little rest +as well as refreshment. One of them asked the sergeant: “What have you +there?” “A prisoner, sir.” After a while there was a laugh. Most of +them knew and had made me out. + +With the assistance of grog and a feed I got back to my tent, but +the sun was well up. The kind Lord Rokeby pretended to be angry, and +offered that if I attended the camp, the Brigade should march past +me; but I don’t think my poor father, had he been alive, would have +recognised me in my trench costume. + +[Sidenote: Letter to M. S. July 28.] + +Our batteries are getting so close to the enemy’s that casualties are +frequent, and the Naval Brigade gradually reducing, without a chance +of recruiting, except in officers, whose vacancies are replaced from +the Fleet. Although they hear, afloat, the jokes played, when the time +comes they forget. Our chief battery on the left is at the foot of a +hill, and a favourite mark for the enemy’s shells. The fuses burning +in the air are often heard before the shells are seen. We have trained +look-out men who know by the sound about where the shell was likely +to drop. They call out, “Right,” “Left,” “Front,” “Rear,” when those +present rush to any point they fancy, dodge close to a gun carriage, or +jump through the embrasure, and so risk a Russian bullet. + +The favourite resort was the magazine passage, cut out of the hill +with a bend in it. The first there, the best chance. The new arrival +affords the best sport, and is prepared for. The dirtiest stretcher, on +which some bleeding body had lately been carried, is at hand. The shell +bursts; the new arrival is struck behind the ear by moist clay, is +immediately seized, laid on the dirty stretcher, carried off, without +resistance, by bearers to the zig-zag cutting and upset into the ditch, +which generally holds water. Of course he is received with cheers, +and watches anxiously for the next newcomer. Dined yesterday with the +Commander-in-Chief at headquarters and met our War Minister, the Duke +of Newcastle; I have established a mess-room, where we meet at supposed +dinner at eight o’clock. Most of my time is passed in the batteries. + +[Sidenote: July 30.] + +Visited Left Attack. Found remains of the gallant Colonel Norcott’s +horse and servant just killed by the same shot. He always rode +this white charger in front of his rifle regiment. Mail in. Letter +from First Lord, Sir Charles Wood, informing me of my having the +Good Service Pension. Visited hospital in Cossack Bay and Admiral +Freemantle. + + + + +CHAPTER LIX + +TRENCHES--BEFORE SEVASTOPOL + + +[Sidenote: 1855. Aug. 1.] + +Heavy fall of rain. Whole country as in winter. Trenches under water. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 2.] + +Bought a beautiful Arab from an officer going home, of 10th Hussars. +Lord Rokeby and Bob Lindsay to dine at our mess. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 3.] + +An attempt at a sortie made last night. Russians driven back easily. +Breakfasted with Hugh Rose, French headquarters. Minute inspection of +Mamelon with Lord Rokeby, troops marching past. Curious custom: the +French dig large holes as burial-places in sight of those going to the +trenches. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 4.] + +Rode to Monastery to arrange for Warde’s going afloat. Wenny Coke +wounded last night in trenches. We have advanced our batteries and +trenches nearer the enemy’s guns without thickening them in proportion. +A shot has no business to pass through a parapet. I had a man turned +over yesterday by a round shot; he was not killed, as the strength of +the shot was expended before it got through the parapet. One of the +stones gave me a clip in the back; but the Russians had been riled by +our cutting a cart in two just before. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +Sunday, muster and divine service. On visiting the hospital I found +one of my poor fellows carving a heart on a ring, part of his own +thigh-bone, which had been amputated. On asking him what he was going +to do with it, he replied, “To send it to my girl, sir.” Another was +busy securing the sides of his hat into the shape of a Greenwich +pensioner’s: a curtain hung round his jacket to look like a long-tailed +coat. He had only one leg. + +A day or two ago I rode with Lord Rokeby to see a division French +lines--3000 Chasseurs d’Afrique, cream of French cavalry. Saw a Russian +lady in Sevastopol flying a kite; the wind was in the direction of the +Mamelon. I pointed it out to the French General Linois, who ordered +his riflemen to fire; they cut the string and down came the kite just +inside the trenches. He gave it to Lord Rokeby, who sent it home. The +French general raised his cap by way of apologising to the lady, and +ordered the riflemen to raise theirs on the points of their bayonets. A +round of Russian grape shot sent one cap flying and broke two muskets. +A broiling day--face burnt cruel. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 6.] + +Dined with Lord Rokeby. George Goldsmith up to breakfast. Visited Right +Attack. Saw, the other day, feeding together in the trenches, Wilbraham +Oates Lennox, Royal Engineers, V.C., Captain John Maitland Lennox, +R.M.L.I., and Augustus Frederick, Captain Royal Artillery, sons of my +friend Lord George Lennox. Dined with General Codrington. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 7.] + +Called on Chief of Artillery. Rode with Lord Rokeby to Cossack Bay +and hospital to see poor D’Aeth, first lieutenant _Sidon_, dying of +cholera. He was a youngster with me in the _Dido_; a more gallant +fellow there could not be. He was taken ill at one this morning, having +been dining at Kamiesch, and was given over five hours afterwards. +He had a locket containing the miniature of a pretty Portuguese girl +at Lisbon, and requested it might be buried with him. Went on board +_Læander_. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +Visited Left Attack. Both Admirals up; met at headquarters. Stopped +to luncheon. While in Right Attack trenches received directions from +headquarters to show the Duke of Newcastle the Quarries. His Grace +following with attendants, I explained the impossibility of such a +staff: the feathers alone would bring on us the whole Russian fire. We +were three or four only. Although shot and shell passed over our heads +we were right enough, until near the Quarries, when a shell burst, +sending fragments close to us: one so near that it almost touched the +Duke, and lodged in a gabion on my side. His Grace expressed a wish to +have the piece; a soldier dislodged it with his bayonet. I held it out +to the Duke, but it was so hot that he dropped it. I believe it is now +at Clumber, with two empty thirteen-inch Russian shells picked up close +to our Brigade batteries. General Barnard and staff dined at naval mess. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 9.] + +Threatening, heavy-looking weather, which came down in a deluge. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 10.] + +Visited St. George, my Chief of Artillery. Rode over to Balaklava to +see Freemantle after his fall. Wenny Coke and other friends to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 11.] + +Visited all Right Attack with General Jones. Wenny Coke, E. Somerset, +Curzon, and other friends to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 12.] + +Broiling hot. Artillery under orders to be ready at daylight following +morning in the field. + +Enclosed is a specimen of the notices I so often received in the +batteries, worth all the foolscap that could be written:-- + + DEAR UNCLE HARRY--In case you have not been warned, I am + desired by the General to give you notice that an attack from + the enemy is expected upon our trenches at 3 A.M. to-morrow. + The covering parties in the trenches have been doubled, first + division in the Right Attack.--Yours sincerely, + + ROBERT J. LINDSAY. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 13.] + +Poor Hughie Drummond, Adjutant of Scots Fusilier Guards, killed in +trenches. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 15.] + +Prince Victor, Thomas, and self rode to Balaclava. I to see Admiral; +they to get material for a stable. + + * * * * * + +One of my horses, “Vladimir,” was an “ever-lasting.” He had been +captured on Balaclava day from Prince Vladimir’s regiment. He was +savage, and one foreleg was held up to enable me to mount. He would +jump anything I asked him. Prince Victor often had difficulty in +keeping me in sight. He shod his own horses, and I think was sorry when +the war was over. + +[Sidenote: Battle of Tchernaya, Aug. 16.] + +Orders from headquarters to be prepared for a sortie, which, not coming +off, enabled me to ride with Prince Victor to the Tchernaya, where a +desperate attack was being made by the Russians on the Italians, the +French going to their assistance. On the high ground on our way we met +the dead and dying being brought up on mules, stretchers, and backs +of men, then laid out in subdivided areas as most convenient for the +French and English surgeons to get at. We descended to the river; the +Russians, who had retreated to the high ground, continued to fire +shot and shell on those who were helping the dying and wounded. The +Tchernaya is a small river, but required a bridge to get over it. One +of the painful sights was the badly wounded trying to drag themselves +to the river, calling for drink. While contemplating the body of a +young Russian officer (judging from his uniform and spurs), whose upper +jaw had been shot clean away, the lower had an uninjured row of white +teeth, heard a voice over my shoulder, remarking, “Il ne mange plus.” +Further on a Russian soldier had his left arm stretched out straight. +Thought he must be alive and rode up, to find him stiff and dead. On a +finger was a large ring. Without dismounting, drew it off, thinking I +had a memento of the battle, but finding it was only brass, I was very +near giving it back. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 17.] + +Notice from headquarters to be prepared for a determined assault on +our Right Attack batteries. On my way met my late shipmate, Lieutenant +Oldfield, weeping: a round shot had just taken his artillery brother’s +head off! Our batteries, not having been formed at the same time, +were somewhat irregular, and it had been necessary to prevent the men +rushing from one battery to the assistance of another: a friendly hint +was given from headquarters that our men should leave their muskets and +side arms behind! We had a large battery, with three or four smaller, +on each side. In the main battery I selected and made a pile of empty +shell cases, forming a platform for self to stand on. Returning +after final inspection, found Captain Hammett in possession of my +pile. Caused him to dismount, though he seemed to object, but having +learned which of the Russian batteries could bear on our own, I took +possession. The ball had commenced. After a few minutes I called from +the position, “Look out, a round shot direct for our battery.” Hammett +gave the notice to the men, who sprang from either side, but did not +move himself. The shot touched the muzzle of the gun, and doubled up +poor Hammett. There was a youngster bending over; I hoped there were +not two down. Found the poor lad was sick at the sight of Hammett’s +wounds. My gig’s crew bore him to our camp, some three miles off. Some +one in camp with a telescope, seeing a gold lace cuff from under the +stretcher borne by the Captain’s gig’s crew, announced my end. Total: +five killed, nineteen wounded. + +[Illustration: _Plan of Sevastopol._] + +[Sidenote: In Naval Brigade, Aug. 18.] + +Continued vigorous bombardment on our side, but enemy nearly shut up. +Whole day on Right Attack. Six men only were wounded on Left Attack. +Dined with Charlie Windham, the almost too plucky Brigadier General of +Second Division. Met Duke of Newcastle. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 19.] + +_Sunday._--Bombardment continuing. Getting used to narrow escapes; had +two on Left Attack. Dog killed on Right Attack in afternoon. Redan much +cut up, also Malakoff. General Barnard, staff and Steele to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 20.] + +Visit from Bob Stopford. Returned to usual routine of firing. Visited +Left Attack. Sir Thomas Pasley and son coming there. Young Pasley just +made a Commander to take Hammett’s place. Generals Barnard and Bentick +to dine. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 21.] + +Threatened sortie. Troops out. Visited Right Attack; fired some long +range near the Russian three-decker and bridge, etc. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 22.] + +Accompanied Lord Rokeby to show him our long range practice on Right +Attack. But little time to go elsewhere. Dined with General Sir William +Eyre to meet the Duke of Newcastle. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 23.] + +Introduced Pasley to Right Attack. Not much going on. Threw several +shot round, if not into Russian ship. Mail arrived. Wynyard, Wenny, +Connell, and others to dine. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 24.] + +To headquarters and Balaklava and hospital, Cossack Bay. Lieutenant +Everett, severe wound in battery. General Sir William Eyre to dine. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 25.] + +Turned out at 2.30 A.M. to meet expected sortie. No go. Lord Rokeby and +Wenny to dine. + +[Illustration: _Inside the Naval Brigade Battery._] + +[Sidenote: Aug. 26.] + +In batteries at an early hour (3 A.M.). Billy Fyler and Fitzroy to +dinner. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 27.] + +Grand meeting at headquarters to invest certain parties with order of +G. and K.C.B. Visited Right Attack and demolished new works on the +salient of Redan. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 28.] + +Lord Rokeby, who was, I might say, “all over the place,” had visited +the French lines that extended from the Malakoff in the direction of +Inkerman. The officers complained how annoyed they had been by a hole +made by the Russians at the foot of the Malakoff, through which, on +a dark night, they managed to creep, and having but the sky for a +background, themselves unseen, managed to pick off the French sentries. +Rokeby having spotted where the hole was, thought it was within range +of our Naval Brigade batteries, and having found me, pointed out the +fresh stopped hole. To make sure, I decided on visiting the place +myself. Mounted my pony, found the French lines and tried to explain in +bad French what I had come for. They assisted me through the stopped +embrasure, at right angles with the Malakoff. I had not been there more +than a minute than a “pat, pat” noise struck the bushes. It was a noise +I had heard before, and thinking I had seen quite enough, struggled to +get back, but found that instead of help, I was detained from within by +pressure on the _soles of my boots_. I reserved the best French that I +could think of until I got back, and then let out at my then comrades +in the foulest French I could muster. They laughed good-humouredly! +It being late I rode across an open space and was as near as possible +spotted by a Russian round shot. I got back in time to point such guns +as would bear on the spot; if it had not been for the good Rokeby I +felt inclined to lay the guns in another direction. + + + + +CHAPTER LX + +THE REDAN + + +[Sidenote: 1855. Extract from letter home, Sept. 1.] + +Our allies are not yet ready for the next and, I trust, final assault; +their sap appears to touch the edge of the Malakoff. We, too, are not +ready, being in want of ammunition. We are all anxious that something +should be done, as we know not when to prepare for winter quarters. +If the Malakoff falls, it must naturally be followed by that of the +remaining works of the enemy. On the south side we shall advance +somewhat nearer to our work. The Russians, too, appear to be preparing +for a move. They have established a bridge across the harbour and are +fast removing their goods and chattels. Everything leads us to suppose +that the winter will not find us in our present position. The enemy +will contest every inch of ground. We do not, on our side, grow wiser +from experience. The other night our working party on the Right Attack +was surprised and some taken prisoners by a small body of Russians +who made a sortie. Officers have over and over again been surprised +and taken prisoners while planting their advanced sentries at night +by Russians lying concealed in the shrubs and grass. A little more +care would have prevented this. My silly fellows unnecessarily expose +themselves in spite of warnings and examples. + +We have two casualties; besides, an amateur youngster from the +_Curaçoa_ must mount the parapet and borrow a sergeant’s musket, to +take a shot at a Russian. This young Gambier mounted on the top of +the parapet, had a _Miniè_ ball through his thigh in a moment. One of +my “Rodneys” got shot through the head yesterday, having gone outside +the embrasure to pick up sticks to cook his dinner. Yesterday our +bluejackets acted a play in the open air. Stage, the side of a hill; a +ballet dancer did Taglioni to perfection. The Duke of Newcastle dined +at our mess. Never enjoyed better health: lots of excitement and plenty +to do. In fact I have knocked up in succession all my staff, viz. my +A.D.C., secretary, and the stout Padre, “Thomas.” But I must not crow +till out of the wood. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +Dined with Rokeby, meeting John Dugdale Astley, Scots Fusilier Guards, +returned with wound cured, and others. Was going to write a line; +an unusual rattle of musketry announced a sortie. Galloped to our +batteries, found them blazing away. The attack was on our right on the +French, who, being well prepared, gave the Russians a dressing. I have +not heard to what amount. + +I must beg allowance of my readers for difference of expression in the +“Right” and “Left” Attack. Naval Brigade batteries faced Sevastopol, +while the military maps faced inland. + +The moon was rising, and the outlines of hills, forts, and figures +showing. In each trench, standing up with musket in hand, were several +rows of our soldiers ready to jump at a call in support of those +further in advance, or to attack should the French have driven the +Russians back in that direction. But their attack had been on the +Mamelon from the Malakoff. We were expecting and ready to repel a +similar sortie from the Redan, but none came. When I reached the front +Captain Pechell, only son of Sir George, Bart., R.N., had just been +shot down with six men of the 77th. It is customary at night for each +side to throw out sentries in advance directly it is dark enough to +cover the persons so advancing. Just between the foot of the ditch +outside the Redan and our advanced trenches there is a cave, the mouth +of which faces towards the works on our right. Directly it is dark the +object between the Russians and ourselves is to try which can first +get possession of it. We have generally succeeded, but last night the +officer of the 88th, who went to take possession, mistook his way. +Pechell, who had been in it before, volunteered, but it was then too +late, the Russians being in possession, and at same time entirely hid +by the darkness of the cave; they allowed Pechell and his six men to +approach near enough to make sure, and then potted them all. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 8.] + +A bombardment, in earnest, commenced at 6 this morning; at 11.30, the +usual resting-time of the Russians, the French surprised and carried +the Malakoff. Our attempt on the Redan was to follow the hoisting of +the French flag on the Malakoff, which was too late for any further +surprises. We could now see clearly what our Naval Brigade had to do. +Leaving the higher batteries, I went down to our extreme left, on the +real Right Attack, and found a fresh battery had been made during the +night by engineers, and in charge of a young artillery officer. I had +already been advised at headquarters that our men should leave their +small arms behind. General Simpson may have heard that on a previous +occasion, when the Naval Brigade were told off to carry the scaling +ladders under the gallant Peel, directly they observed the slope of +the Redan fortification they proposed to drop the ladders, saying they +could get in better without them. After visiting the main batteries, +where my most experienced hands were, I joined our later, extended +battery. We made a bad beginning, inasmuch as our magazine was blown +up, which rendered eight guns less effective. + +The rush for the Redan had now commenced, and in the excitement our +men wanted to draw the stakes out of the gabions, and to rush in. I +noticed, on high ground to my left, the two Generals, Simpson and +Gascoigne, one wounded in the head. Directly opposite, within 300 +yards, was a Russian battery playing on our men; half the effect of our +battery was spoilt by being unable to fire, except by dropping shots +into the Russians opposite. Shortly after an A.D.C. came galloping, +giving me an order to “cease firing.” Our soldiers were being mowed +down, chiefly by grape shot. The young artillery officer had ceased +firing. I ran to his small battery and inquired the reason. He, too, +had received orders, same effect. I told him I had received the same, +but on no account to cease firing, and offered to send as many spare +hands as he could employ, which he accepted. The Russians used grape +shot, which came hopping along, many of them stopping in the ditch in +front of our battery. The bombardment was kept up till sunset. Augustus +Fitzroy, whose battery was on our left, on returning to camp joined +two of our officers who preferred the open. Before reaching his tent +he was knocked over by a bullet, which must have come from the Redan; +the Russians having returned to that end, which the gallant Windham had +held. + +[Illustration: _“Redan” Windham._] + +Windham was one of my oldest friends; we were boys together and +remained friends till his death, February 2, 1870, at the early age +of fifty-nine. He was properly called the Hero of the Redan, for by +his gallant bearing on that day he did much to retrieve our good name. +Dead against the first attack himself, its numbers, place, etc. etc., +he nevertheless led it in the most gallant manner, being first in the +work--and after his three messengers had been disabled had the _moral_ +courage to go back himself and solicit reinforcements. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: Sept. 9.] + +Early this morning visited Sir Colin Campbell; a few Highlanders had +during the night crept into the Redan and found it deserted. On Sir +Colin’s invitation we rode into the Redan by the salient angle. Horrors +met us at every step. Two instances of faithful, but half-starved dogs +were sitting on bodies, from which no coaxing could draw them. In a +small hut on a table, leaning against the wall, was a Russian officer, +looking smart in his uniform; on my speaking to him I found that he was +dead. In the higher part noticed excavations and could trace wires for +explosions. Sevastopol had been evacuated during the night--magazines +blown up--town blazing--ships sank--others on fire. The Russians had +put themselves on the safe side of the harbour by blowing up the east +end of the floating bridge. Strolling about I found myself close to +the ground floor of a hospital. On entering I was between two long +rows of Russian soldiers, dead and dying, on broad wooden stretchers. +I will not attempt to describe the horrors, but each body was in a +position as if trying to escape. At the further end I found a young +English officer in uniform who said he had been expecting us some +time--he was wandering in his mind. A flag of truce was hoisted about +noon. The Russians sent steamers to remove their dead and dying. One, +the _Vladimir_, was commanded, I think, by Captain Etholin, who had +done a gallant thing earlier in the war by capturing and taking into +the harbour an English transport that had grounded in sight of our +combined fleets. While the truce flag was up I moved three guns down +to the edge of the harbour. When the Russian steamers had landed their +dead and dying and returned to their moorings, in front of where we +stood in a sort of hostile parade, one of the three Naval Brigade +guns went off and smashed _Vladimir’s_ quarter boat. That same night +we were building a screen, from behind which we could destroy any +attempt at landing to interfere with our newly appointed Governor, +Charles Windham. At midnight, superintending the work, I observed the +_Vladimir_ make a move in our direction. Not a sound from on board. +When she got near mid-channel, she stopped and gradually turned with +her head up the harbour. When broadside on I gave the order to lie down +behind our newly made screen, whereupon _Vladimir_ quietly settled +herself at the bottom of the harbour, leaving nothing but the upper +masts. It was from the foremast of that ship that all flags of truce +and communications were made. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 10.] + +Word was sent to me that poor Augustus Fitzroy’s wound was considered +mortal. Wrote to prepare his father for the sad event, and then to +receive his last instructions. Poor dear, unlucky, gallant fellow. I +had known the whole family from the time I had landed, as a skeleton +boy, at the Cape of Good Hope in 1827. In pain I took down the items as +he wished them to be disposed of: poor boy! They were but few. He was +buried on Cathcart’s Hill with full military honours, in the grave next +to Sir Robert Newman, which I had made big enough to hold two. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 11.] + +The inspection of the evacuated forts showed how destructive had been +the fire of our batteries and how great a share the Naval Brigade had +in the Fall of Sevastopol. It is an immense place, but there was not +a spot where our shot had not penetrated. It was a sad spectacle; so +precipitate had been the Russian retreat that they had cut off the +communication by their bridge and left some 2000 wounded in barracks. +Looking at the mastheads of their line-of-battle ships, and the still +smoking ruins of their public buildings, I was in hopes that this would +bring the war to a conclusion. + + * * * * * + +Naval Brigade ordered to prepare for re-embarking. Was frequently in +the artillery camp arranging details. + +One morning, in the Colonel’s marquee, we noticed a sailor coming from +the town. As he was steering wildly, I thought it best to retire into +the shade. The Colonel asked where he was from: if he had any loot. He +replied he had not, and added, “To-morrow, I intends to ewacuate the +Crimea.” + + + + +CHAPTER LXI + +AFTER FALL OF SEVASTOPOL + + +[Sidenote: 1855. Sevastopol, Sept. 16.] + +The breaking up for embarkation of our Brigade was a curious scene. +First started off 160 mules, with baggage, etc. Such a collection! +Then came our men, divided into three divisions, according to their +destinations. I go to the _Rodney_ at Kazatch, and officers to the +different ships at Balaklava. Two regiments kindly sent their bands: +the 14th, in which my brother was at Waterloo, and the 18th Royal +Irish with ours. The Naval Brigade went with flags of all descriptions +flying, and no end of cheering--with “one more for Captain _Kaple_.” + +[Sidenote: Sept. 17.] + +The more I visit the Russian works and town of Sevastopol, the more +wonderful does everything connected with the siege appear. One hardly +knows which is the most extraordinary--the perfect destruction of +every building in the town by shot and shell, or the stupendous works +erected by the Russians for their defence. The Redan and Malakoff are +nothing compared to the Flagstaff and Garden Batteries. The latter were +impregnable, and might have held out any length of time. The Malakoff +was taken by surprise by the French, as they had done the Mamelon. +Of all, the Redan appeared the least difficult to assault--but that +is a subject we all try to forget. Of our generals, Colonel, now +Brigadier-General Charles Windham, comes out the best. The Russians +have left vast stores of guns, etc., they could not, in their haste, +carry away. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Little Harry (Stephenson), with symptoms of fever, on board _Rodney_, +despatched at once with Thompson to Serapia Hospital. Dined with +Windham as Governor in city of Sevastopol. A shell burst within ten +yards as I mounted pony to go home. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 23.] + +Visited with General Barnard, La Marmora’s look-out houses over the +Tchernaya and adjacent country. On Saturday pitched my tent near +General Barnard. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Hugh Rose sent me from French headquarters the two last captured +Cossack spears. (The last I saw of them was at Sir Thomas Whichcote’s, +Ashwerby Park, to which I afterwards added a link of the chain that +formed the slings of the main yard of the _Twelve Apostles_.) + +[Sidenote: Sept. 28.] + +Having exchanged with Moorsom, Connell found an artillery waggon for my +traps, rode down to Balaclava, taking up quarters on board _Læander_. +My servant, having left Bury’s much-valued clock in tent, sent him back. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 29.] + +Like my Admiral, and like having work to do. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 30.] + +Took Washington and his son a ride on to Balaclava Plain, and round by +headquarters. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 1.] + +Commenced duties as Flag Captain. Dockyard affording amusement, +especially erection of stables. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 3.] + +Sid Skipwith and I dining with Methven, commanding P. and O. _Colombo_. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 5.] + +Busy embarking Royal Marines, the finest body of men now in the Crimea. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +Embarking troops. Rode in afternoon with the Duberlys, 8th Hussars, to +Baidar to hear the Sardinian Band. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 8.] + +Cavalry and horse artillery embarking for Eupatoria. Lady Paulet on +board _Oscar_. Lord William Paulet to stay with Admiral. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 13.] + +Put box with poor Augustus Fitzroy’s bequests on board _Ripon_ for +conveyance to his sister, Hon. Mrs. Keith Stewart. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Rode over to Kazatch to ascertain means for embarkation of Highland +Brigade. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Dined with the Duberlys, Windham and St. George Foley. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Dinner at a Kamiesch restaurant--Duberlys, Vansittart, St. George +Foley, Charlie Windham, and Lewis and Earle, A.D.C.’s, Prince Victor +and Thompson, Sir William Gordon and Lord Dunkellin. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +Dined on board _Belgravia_ with Lady Paulet, Mrs. Mitchell and Lady +Manson. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 24.] + +Review of cavalry and horse artillery: none like them in the world: +near 3000 strong. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 28.] + +Picnic at Baidar--_Belgravian_ ladies, Prince Victor, T. Duberly, etc. +Former lost their way coming back. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 29.] + +Started with Thompson for Kazatch. My “Rajah” kicking him in play, had +him carried off on stretcher to Connell’s camp. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 3.] + +We formed a cheery party for a ride towards Bilbek, consisting of +Prince Victor, the Duberlys, Mark Kerr, Coleraine, Vansittart, and +self, about 13 miles distant. The country hilly, grassy, and bushy; +weather perfect. The attendants had arranged our picnic on a flat space +on a hilly point. We had arranged ourselves to feed, when one of our +party found we had disturbed a cavalry vedette of our own countrymen on +an adjacent point. A ravine between, they could not conveniently get at +us. + +[Illustration: _Sketched from life by Hon. Col. W. Colville. 1855._ + +_A Vidette of Cossacks._] + +While things were getting ready rode to the western edge of our +selected spot and found we had likewise disturbed a nest of Cossacks. +Our small party were not long in packing up this nice little picnic. +Being well mounted, I waited to take a farewell peep, and from my +position saw a greasy Cossack, about 30 feet below me, looking about +with his carbine across his saddle, I suppose for something to eat. +Being hungry myself, I overtook our party about to picnic a quarter of +a mile off, Mark Kerr riding, as usual, without his hat. + +[Sidenote: Nov 4.] + +Accompanied Lady Paulet to breakfast with Windham. Rode afterwards to +Kazatch; dined with Beauchamp Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Nov 5.] + +Breakfast with Sir E. Lyons. Transacted business, rode back to +Balaclava, putting up a large covey of partridges by the way. + +[Sidenote: Nov 6.] + +8th Hussars embarking. Shall miss them and Mrs. Duberly. + +[Sidenote: Nov 8.] + +With Wenny Coke to look after covey of partridges seen by me. While +preparing luncheon, observed a French soldier stalking a bird that +flew from bush to bush. Asked Wenny to shoot the bird for him while I +prepared luncheon. When he came back I asked if the man was pleased. He +replied, “I don’t know! I have the bird in my pocket.” I said “What a +brute you are,” when he produced a woodcock, which we at once cooked. + +[Sidenote: Nov 11.] + +With my Admiral to headquarters. Took leave of General Sir James +Simpson, also Willy Colville, who accompanies him to England. Mark Kerr +was there. Admiral and I dined with Dupuis. + +[Sidenote: Nov 15.] + +A fearful explosion between 3 and 4 P.M. in French Artillery Park, near +the Mill. Rode over, sad sight. Loaded shells bursting, contents flying +in a horizontal direction about seven feet from the ground, killing +almost every horse that was on its legs. It being dinner hour most +officers escaped. There was a large windmill used as a powder magazine. +It was a sight to see the gallant engineers mounting ladders with wet +blankets to nail on the outside of the Mill, to prevent falling fire +igniting powder. I got so excited that I found myself letting go the +reins to clasp my hands over my cap, as if that could preserve my +brain box from falling fragments of shell. There was no distinction +of nationality. It is fortunate that the first horizontal explosion +took place while officers were dining. I was still looking on, when a +working party of the 18th Royal Irish came rushing and formed up. I +asked the sergeant what they were waiting for. He answered “Orders.” +I said, “That was not your form when we were in China, and danger in +sight.” They were off at once, officers and all, into the igniting +shells. Nearly the last wounded I saw was a young officer carried on a +stretcher, the boots on his legs heels uppermost. I think his name was +Dashwood: a more painful sight than any fight. Thirty tons of powder +lately arrived from England were destroyed. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 18.] + +Rode with my Admiral over to Kazatch to visit Commander-in-Chief; with +him to take last look at Sevastopol Docks before destruction. Russians +still numerous on north side. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Took leave of Wenny Coke.--homeward bound. Party to dine: Steele and +Rose. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 28.] + +Vansittart, taking his departure, leaves me his horse to forward to his +mother. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 30.] + +Young Dalyell makes his appearance from Constantinople. + + * * * * * + +From prisoners that had been exchanged, it appeared that the Russians +made a difference in their treatment of those they took prisoners and +those who allowed themselves to be taken. They treated the latter with +great contempt, and used them ill. The _Times_ paid a just tribute +to the manly bearing of the officers of the Russian army. The naval +officers--some of them--were fine fellows. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 3.] + +Dirty appearance of weather. My Admiral agreeing to remain on shore +another day, took two youngsters, Wellesley and Molyneux, to see +steeple chase. Weather turning fine. Sport very good. Rode back with +boys to dine with Sir Edmund Lyons. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 8.] + +Accompanied my Admiral to headquarters, then to Kazatch to stay with +Sir E. Lyons, and meet Curzon and St. George Foley and Beauchamp +Seymour. Jolly dinner. + + * * * * * + +St. George Foley, Lord Raglan’s A.D.C., died whilst Governor of +Gibraltar. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Function on board French ships in memory of Admiral Bruat, _Royal +Albert_ firing 59 guns. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +Visit from Cecil Rice--6 feet 2. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +Rode to front. Young Willy Barnard ill. Mail in. Sir E. Lyons a +full Admiral: am so glad. Confidential despatch summoning him to a +conference in Paris, also Pellissier and La Marmora. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 14.] + +Accompanied my Admiral to headquarters. Admiral and I dined with +Hardinge, meeting Generals Barnard and Dupuis. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 15.] + +My Admiral, Prince Victor, and self to Kazatch, on a visit to Sir E. +Lyons. Brigadier Spencer and large party to dinner. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 16.] + +Across to Kaimesch to see Inglefield’s sketches and walk with him. Hugh +Rose joined dinner party. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 17.] + +Snow and frost, slippery riding. Returned to Balaklava. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 19.] + +Thousands upon thousands of that beautiful bird the bustard (there +are two sorts, one much larger), continually passing over to the +northward. Several of them shot from the heights in time for Christmas. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 23.] + +Rode to headquarters. George Cadogan and I to Kazatch on visit to +Beauchamp Seymour. Found Fitz Berkeley. We making jolly quartette on +board _Meteor_. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Ate my Christmas dinner with Charlie Windham: jolly party. Letter from +Sir Charles Wood, offering me division of gunboats: the thing of all +others I most coveted! Took passage in _Orinoco_. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 27.] + +Rode up with my Admiral to headquarters to take leave: uncommon good +luncheon. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 28.] + +Mail in from England. My name in papers as Commodore! + +[Sidenote: Dec. 29.] + +Took leave of my kind chief and Seymour, the latter agreeing to go as +my captain in case of my being a real Commodore. Embarked on board +_Orinoco_ at 1 P.M. from Balaklava. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 30.] + +Came to, in afternoon, in the entrance to the Golden Horn. Dined +with Borlase on board _Melapus_, 42, to meet the Admiral, Sir +Houston-Stewart. + +[Sidenote: Constantinople, Dec. 31.] + +No end of friends going both ways. Misseri’s full; H. de Bathe on +way to Crimea. At Embassy found Lady George Paget; Lady Powlett at +Misseri’s. Dined with Admiral on board _Hannibal_. Met there the +Turkish Admiral, our Adolphus Slade. + + + + +CHAPTER LXII + +ARRIVAL FROM CRIMEA--THENCE IN _COLOSSUS_--SHORE TIME + + +[Sidenote: 1856. Jan. 1.] + +Constantinople.--Put up at Misseri’s Hotel, when Dalrymple Hay, of +Flagship, announced that _Orinoco_ only waited for Captain Keppel. +Adieu to Constantinople. + +[Sidenote: Malta, Jan. 5.] + +Arrived early in Malta. Found Lady Talbot, Lady Victoria looking +beautiful, but, I fear, not long for this world. Charlie Talbot dining +with me. To opera, and re-embarked. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 6.] + +Steamed at an early hour. + +[Sidenote: England, Jan. 17.] + +Passed through the Needles passage a little before 8 A.M. Landed at +Southampton and started for London by train. Dined with Stephenson, +felt there was “no place like home.” + +[Sidenote: London, Jan. 18.] + +First visit to the Admiralty; well received. Found myself appointed +to _Colossus_ and division of gunboats. Relieving old schoolfellow, +Captain Robinson. Dined with Sir Maurice Berkeley. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Business at Admiralty, carpet-bag full of letters, no rest. Dined with +First Lord; Lords Lansdowne and Stanley there. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +By ’bus to visit Dowager Lady Albemarle at Twickenham; met Edwards, her +trainer. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +Visited Georgie Kennedy at Northbank. Jolly family dinner at +Stephenson’s. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 22.] + +Called on Lady Fremantle and Lady William Paget, Arundels and Sir +Edmund Lyons. By rail to Portsmouth. Lodgings at Chambers on the Hard. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Jan. 23.] + +No uniform to hand, nevertheless visited privately Admiral Sir George +Seymour and Admiral-Superintendent W. F. Martin. On board _Colossus_ +and _Rodney_. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 25.] + +Took up commission for _Colossus_. Seven gunboats defective. Dined with +Admiral-Superintendent. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 28.] + +Got through two courts-martial on engineer and assistant-paymaster, +both pleading guilty, thereby saving our time, but not their sentences. +D’Eyncourt, Bowyear, Moorsom, and Clifford taking chop with me. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 31.] + +Early telegraph from Lord Arundel, that Sir E. Lyons dined at home. But +post brought order to dine with Her Majesty at Windsor! Just saved my +bacon, buying a pair of shoes as I passed through London. + +[Sidenote: Windsor Castle, Feb. 1.] + +Invited by H.R.H. Prince Albert to shoot. Borrowed coat of Colonel +Bowater. Shooting perfect. Back by 2 P.M. Visited Duchess of Kent at +Frogmore. Went over Castle armoury, etc. Took Mrs. Phipps into dinner. +Prince Albert taking leave over night. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 2.] + +By 10 o’clock train to London. Attended John Robb’s wedding and +breakfast. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 3.] + +Long chat with Sir James Graham. At Harry Stephenson’s, another family +gathering. Leicester and his brothers there. Edward Coke and wife, +Archie Macdonald and wife, all jolly and happy. + +[Sidenote: London, Feb. 6.] + +Dined with Duke of Cambridge. All Crimean men. Have seldom seen a +meeting of twelve men so well satisfied with their dinner as well as +with one another. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 7.] + +Dined with Baldwin Walker. + +[Sidenote: London, Feb. 8.] + +Ascertained by this day’s _Gazette_ that I was to have the C.B. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 9.] + +By 5 P.M. train to Portsmouth. In same carriage as George Lennox; dined +with him. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Feb. 12.] + +Handsome mention made of me by Sir Charles Wood in house last night. + +[Sidenote: Saturday, Feb. 16.] + +By train to London. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 18.] + +Dined with First Lord. + + * * * * * + +I must now take my readers back fourteen years, when the decorations +on the conclusion of the China war came out. My good father, not +understanding the rules of the Service, seeing that I was the only +captain not to receive the C.B., wrote privately to the then First +Lord, Lord Haddington. A correspondence ensued admitting the hardness +of my case, Lord Haddington informing my father that I should have the +first vacancy. On my arrival from the East Indian Station (which then +included China) in 1845, my father gave me this correspondence. On +leaving England in the _Mæander_ for the same station, without keeping +any copy, I respectfully enclosed the letters to Lord Auckland, and +have no doubt they were transferred to the Private Secretary’s Clerk’s +office, and may be there now. + +But to return to the present. My predecessor in command of the +Naval Brigade in the Crimea, on his promotion, received the K.C.B. +and returned to England. Sir Edmund Lyons appointed me to succeed +Lushington. I felt that my command of the Brigade having terminated +successfully I might receive a similar distinction. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 19.] + +Early to see my friend Berkeley at the Admiralty, who, having well +considered the case, took me into the presence of the First Lord, Sir +Charles Wood. With him was his brother-in-law Sir Frederick Grey. +Admiral Berkeley having clearly stated my case, the First Lord, rather +excited, addressed me. + +“Perhaps, Captain Keppel, you would like me to explain to Her Majesty +that you would rather decline the C.B.” + +I replied, “Exactly, sir, I feel more distinguished as I am.” + +Admiral Berkeley here interfered, saying, “Keppel, we are old friends. +The order comes so directly from Her Majesty that you cannot decline it +without offence.” + +I replied, “Many thanks, sir, that is the last thing I would do.” Made +my bow and retired. + +[Sidenote: Feb. 20.] + +Attended levee. Dined with De Cliffords. Dance at Lady John Russell’s. +Evening party at Lady Mary Woods: everybody there! + +[Sidenote: Feb. 22.] + +Attended Installation of the Order of the Bath at Buckingham Palace; +was decorated with the Companionship by Her Majesty! + +[Sidenote: London, Mar. 8.] + +Dined with brother George to meet my new, pretty niece Sophy Bury. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 9.] + +By train to Portsmouth. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +Inspected gunboats at Motherbank. Dined with Fred Pelham to meet +Admiral Hon. Sir R. Dundas. Getting _Colossus_ cabin ready. Mid-day +visit to Motherbank. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth, Mar. 12.] + +On usual morning attendance on the Commander-in-Chief. Sir George, +looking unusually serious, said: “I am afraid I must address you as +‘Captain Keppel.’ I have repeatedly spoken about the carelessness of +officers in command of gunboats, and now I find that one of your +Division has been trying to break through Ryde Pier. Now the damage +done by them, chiefly at night, averages £85 per week.” I was sorry, +and ventured to ask how he knew the culprit belonged to my Division? +He replied, “By the number on the bow.” To which I said, “I beg your +pardon, sir, the most mischievous of these young scamps, when going at +night where they ought not, carry spare boards with any number on them +but their own.” He rang the bell and sent for the board, which luckily +proved to be that of the only gunboat that was, and had been fitting +alongside the _Colossus_! I think the Admiral was as pleased as myself +at the mistake. Clifford and I dined with Hope to meet Sir Richard +Dundas, now our Baltic Chief. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +On a visit to my kinsman H. H. Lindsay at West Dean, a charming place +in Sussex. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 16.] + +Palm Sunday. Afternoon walked to Goodwood, Duke and Duchess out. Lady +Cecilia looking lovely; Lady William Paget charming. Got drenched +walking back. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 17.] + +Early train, _via_ Chichester, to Portsmouth. Of course, plenty to +attend to. _Pelter_, commanded by Lieutenant H. Round, my gunboat for +the week. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 18.] + +Shifted shore quarters to Portland Hotel. Dined with Commander-in-Chief. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +To the Motherbank. Got Division under weigh round the Nab. Some +successful manœuvring. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +By afternoon train to Chichester. Met at station by George Lennox. With +him to Goodwood. So kindly received. Most enjoyable. + +[Sidenote: Goodwood, Mar. 23.] + +Easter Sunday. To morning service. Walk after church to West Dean to +luncheon. Walked back, having taken another pleasanter walk with the +excellent Duchess. + +[Sidenote: 1856. Mar. 24.] + +Lords March and George Lennox returning with me for a cruise in +gunboats. Flotilla under weigh. They much pleased. Dined with +Commander-in-Chief. First Lord and Admiral Berkeley there. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Admiralty Lords in _Black Eagle_. _Colossus_ and gunboats under weigh +by signal, and proceeded in company to Portland. Lord Mulgrave, H. +Corry, and party on board. Dined on board _Black Eagle_. + +[Sidenote: Portland, Mar. 26.] + +Breakfasted on board _Black Eagle_. Inspected with First Lord the works +in progress. Easterly wind, too strong for gunboats to return with +_Black Eagle_. Dined with Lord Mulgrave on board _Titania_ yacht. Slept +where I dined. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 27.] + +On board _Colossus_ to breakfast. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +Luncheon with Lady Hastings. Montagu Thomas taking me to Dorchester. By +rail to Southampton and Portsmouth. + +[Sidenote: Portsmouth.] + +Luncheon with Cousin Cecilia Yorke. _Colossus_ with gunboats arriving +in afternoon from Portland. Reported them and self to Admiral. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 30.] + +Peace proclaimed at Paris; great illuminations and rejoicings. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 1.] + +Took up quarters on board _Colossus_ in harbour. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 3.] + +Stanley Graham joined ship and dined with me. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 8.] + +My White Division giving a ball at Ryde. The best that had been given, +so they all said! + +[Sidenote: Apr. 9.] + +Slept at Ryde Pier Hotel for a few hours. Went to Lady Hastings with +cousin Cecilia. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 11.] + +Arrived _Conqueror_, _Exmouth_, and _Dee_. Commander-in-Chief came out +in _Fire Queen_, and inspected position of gunboats. + +[Sidenote: Spithead, Apr. 14.] + +11 A.M.--Weighed, and proceeded to Spithead to take station in line +with the fleet in Port Division. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 15.] + +_Imperieuse_ and _Desperate_ arrived and took station. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 16.] + +Arrived _Euryalus_ and _Falcon_. Division of gunboats under weigh +exercising. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 17.] + +[Sidenote: Apr. 18.] + +Arrived _Pylades_, _Amphion_, and _Centurion_. 1 P.M.--Fleet weighed to +exercise. Sir George Seymour’s flag flying in _Arrogant_. Stood round +pivot-ship, and returned to station in line at Spithead. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 19.] + +_Rodney_ and _London_, took station as pivot-ships off the Nab. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 20.] + +_Sea-horse_ arrived. Gunboats arriving daily. + +[Sidenote: Spithead, Apr. 23.] + +Grand Review of the whole Fleet. Noon, fired Royal Salute as Her +Majesty passed up between the two lines, followed by the four Divisions +of gunboats. First and Second Division leading with two gunboats each, +making four abreast. As soon as the gunboats had passed through and +divided to starboard and port round the headmost ships of the Line, +the whole Fleet weighed and stood to the southward, and so round the +pivot-ships. The gunboats having taken position in front of Southsea +beach afterwards opened fire on a signal from Royal Yacht. Her Majesty +returned into harbour under a second Royal Salute from the whole Fleet, +the ships coming to an anchor in prescribed order. 9 P.M.--The whole +Fleet illuminated and burnt rockets. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 29.] + +4.30 P.M.--Weighed with the White Division, ran down to Spithead for +orders. 5.30.--Proceeded to eastward. + +[Sidenote: Apr. 30.] + +Communicated in gunboats with Dover. 10.40.--Rounded to in the Downs +and received pilot. Ran through Princes Channel. 8.10.--Came to off the +Little Nore. White Division in company. + +[Sidenote: May 1.] + +6.20 A.M.--Weighed with White Division. Saluted flag of Rear-Admiral +Honourable William Gordon, and proceeded into harbour. Moored on north +side. Proceeded by permission to London. + +[Sidenote: Boulogne, May 2.] + +The proclamation of peace affected movements of Division of gunboats, +which had been destined to take part in operations in the Baltic. After +breakfast to Admiralty. Offer of Broad Pennant in India. Would a duck +like a swim! By steamer to Boulogne. Friend Admiral Julien de Gravière +on board. We lunched on board Sir John Bayley’s yacht _Nymph_. + +[Sidenote: May 5.] + +9 A.M. steamer to Folkestone. By train to Shoreditch, so to Romford; +met by Mark Wood, with him to his place, Bishop’s Hall, and his +charming wife, Miss Williams that was. Lady Thorold too, from +Lincolnshire, so sorry could not stay longer. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +To Sheerness, dined with the Vice-Admiral, Sir William Gordon, a dear +steady old gentleman: at table, good for five hours. He had invited +Frank Scott and Henry Yorke to dinner. Usual routine with division of +gunboats. + +[Sidenote: May 29.] + +On arriving at St. George’s Place, Harry Stephenson informed me that +_Colossus_ had sailed for Crimea. At Admiralty, ascertained that _Royal +George_ and _Colossus_ had passed the Downs. I being on leave, Captain +Robinson had been reappointed to _Colossus_. Telegraphed to detain +_Centurion_ or _Royal George_ for me at Plymouth. + +[Sidenote: May 30.] + +By 1 P.M. train, arriving 2 A.M. at Morshead’s, Plymouth. + +[Sidenote: May 31.] + +Daylight brought in _Royal George_, _Colossus_ having passed on. Found +that my telegraph to Torquay had effected what I wanted. At 8 sailed in +_Royal George_ from Plymouth. + +[Sidenote: At Sea, June 2.] + +Making a fine weather passage. An idler I. + +[Sidenote: June 6.] + +Once more the Rock of Gibraltar in sight. 9 A.M.--Came to in the Bay. +Went on shore to the good George Greys, 10 P.M.--_Colossus_ arrived. + +[Sidenote: June 7.] + +Stewart Paget coming on board for a cruise. 7 P.M.--Weighed and steamed +out of the Bay. + +[Sidenote: Malta, June 14.] + +Arrived in Malta. Ship coaled and ready before dark, but a little rest +for stokers necessary. + +[Sidenote: June 15.] + +Cast off from buoy, 4 A.M. + +[Sidenote: June 18.] + +Once again in the Archipelago, having passed Cape St. Angelo in middle +watch. Should have been at Queen’s Ball to-night “if not otherwise +engaged.” + +[Sidenote: June 19.] + +Entered the Dardanelles. Met _Queen_ full of troops in tow of +_Terrible_. + +[Sidenote: June 20.] + +In the Sea of Marmora. 1 P.M.--Anchored in the Golden Horn. + +[Sidenote: June 21.] + +3 P.M.--Weighed; ordered by Rear-Admiral Sir F. Grey to tow transport +up the Bosphorus! + +[Sidenote: Crimea, June 23.] + +Anchored off Kazatch. In Comber’s steamer _Viper_ to Sevastopol +Harbour. Visited north side, from maintop of _Twelve Apostles_, brought +away slings of main yard. Went over fortifications, docks, Malakoff and +Redan. Rode to Cathcart’s Hill. Visited graves of my two friends. + +[Sidenote: June 24.] + +Luncheon at headquarters. With Charlie Windham to Balaclava. Dined with +Freemantle, and slept on board _Leander_. + +[Sidenote: June 25.] + +_Colossus_ off the harbour by 7.30. Embarked 754 officers and men of +the 44th Regiment. Old friend Colonel Charles Stanley in command. Out +and away at 10.30. Percy Herbert and Romaine on board. + +[Sidenote: June 26.] + +Ran past Constantinople during the afternoon, telegraphing to Flag, +without stopping, the regiment and number of troops on board. Clear +away without a trooper in tow! + +[Sidenote: June 27.] + +_Centurion_ full of fuel, and with a clean bottom, steamed past us +this morning in an unpleasant manner. Clear of Dardanelles. Found a +slashing north-easter blowing. + +[Sidenote: June 28.] + +I have often thought how easy it would have been with our united fleets +to have stopped up the mouth of Sevastopol Harbour between Forts +Nicholas and St. Michael. We had material enough in useless old ships +to block the entrance assisted by the débris from the aforesaid Forts, +where during the winter months, mud washed down from the rivers and +adjacent streams would have formed a lake, to be continually renewed +until it became arable, and in some future time the farmer’s plough +might strike the _Vladimir’s_ funnel or remove the head of the _Twelve +Apostles_. + +[Sidenote: June 29.] + +Passed through the Doro passage in middle watch and rounded Cape St. +Angelo. + +Fuel falling short: obliged to economize, always a bore! Was in too +great a hurry passing Constantinople. Divine Service to troops and +seamen. + +4 P.M.--Fell in with a collier consigned to French Government, she not +knowing of her whereabouts eased her of fifty tons. + +[Sidenote: Malta, July 1.] + +Arrived at Malta before 8 A.M. Admiral the Hon. Sir Montague Stopford +in command. Coaled, and off by 4 P.M. + +[Sidenote: July 2.] + +Rounded Cape Bon. Impatient I! + +[Sidenote: July 8.] + +6 A.M.--Anchored at Gibraltar. While coaling passed time pleasantly +enough between George Grey and Pagets. Dined with the General. Got +everybody on board by 11 P.M. Weighed at midnight. + +[Sidenote: Spithead, July 18.] + +At daylight passed the Needles, and at an early hour anchored at +Spithead, within two hours of _Centurion_. George Lennox dined with +me on board, returned his binoculars. Her Majesty passing through +Spithead came close by _Colossus_. Great cheering. + +[Sidenote: Spithead, July 19.] + +Disembarked troops. No men could have behaved better than our 44th +throughout the voyage. Dined with the good Admiral, Sir George Seymour. + +[Sidenote: July 21.] + +_Colossus_ coming into harbour, accompanied Admiral and family to +Cowes. Wrote my name in lodge-book at Osborne. + +[Sidenote: July 23.] + +By 2.30 train to London; put up with Harry Stephenson. To Haymarket, by +appointment with Lord William Paget. + +[Sidenote: July 24.] + +Edward Eyre to breakfast. Hack cab to Twickenham to dine with Dowager +Lady Albemarle. + +[Sidenote: July 29.] + +Letter from Sir Charles Wood announcing his intention of giving me a +broad pennant in India. Started by train for Chichester. Thomas and I +to Goodwood Races. Sent traps to West Dean, walked there from races. + +[Sidenote: Goodwood, July 30.] + +To Goodwood Races. Met many friends: George Payne, Admiral Rous, T. +Whichcote, Crosbie, Joseph Hawley, Colonel Vansittart, etc. Dined at +Goodwood. Found General Barnard on return to West Dean. + +[Sidenote: July 31.] + +Cup Day. Sent traps to Goodwood and took up quarters which had been +vacated by H.R.H. Duke of Cambridge. Dinner for sixty each day. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 1.] + +Another splendid day. After races went to West Dean to take leave. +Duchess and party to Chichester Ball. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 2.] + +To Drayton Station by 8.30 train to London. Lost portmanteau. To club; +met General Barnard. At Antrobus with Romaine to Jack Templer, and +arranged the foundation of a reconciliation between Brooke and the +Eastern Archipelago Company--a most desirable event. Back to London +Bridge Station--no tidings of lost portmanteau--horrid bore! By 4.30 +train to Snodlands and Leyburn Grange. Found Georgie and Sara Hawley, +Coleraine and Diana coming afterwards. A love of a place this Grange. +Everything in good taste and perfect order. + +Interesting inspection of Hawley’s extensive paddocks. Dinner and +cooking in keeping with everything else in this cheery spot. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 5.] + +Visited Commander-in-Chief. Dined with Cashers. Portmanteau recovered +by the good “Thomas”[3] at Drayton Station. + +[3] The Rev. Josias Thompson. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 8.] + +To Cowes Regatta Ball with Lady Montagu and Miss Leeds. Good ball. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 9.] + +Started for Portsmouth. Went on board _Royal George_. Found Henry Yorke +in sick bay with sprained ankle. Brought him on shore. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 11.] + +“Thomas” and I by steamer to Cowes Regatta. Sailed in Frankland’s +_Stella_. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 12.] + +Visited Admiral, who gave me his likeness. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 16.] + +With Admiral in _Fire Queen_ to Spithead, he visiting Sardinian and +Dutch frigates. To an afternoon _déjeûner_ at Lord and Lady Downes at +beautiful Binstead. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 18.] + +Made calls with Henry Seymour. Dined with Admiral Sir George Seymour to +meet Dutch officers, he taking us all to Southsea rooms. Dancing! + +[Sidenote: Aug. 21.] + +Dined with Admiral. Letter from Torquay deciding that Henry Yorke’s +health will prevent his going to India. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 24.] + +Hired a fourwheeler and got kicked out, but succeeded in getting to +Northlands before dinner was over. + +[Sidenote: Osborne, Aug. 26.] + +Prince Victor and self were to dine at Osborne, he having a room +there. We crossed early. Strolling by self in afternoon, came suddenly +on Her Majesty and the Prince Consort. Tried to get behind a bush--too +late! Was beckoned to by Her Majesty, who appeared in the best of +spirits. The Queen asked me how I liked the change of uniform. Replied, +“I like it very much, your Majesty, but this morning I was taken for +a railway official.” At this Her Majesty laughed heartily, giving His +Royal Highness a little nudge, and added: “Have they not taken away +your epaulettes?” Unfortunately I did not then know the improvement was +His Royal Highness’s idea. Took in Lady Caroline Barrington to dinner. +Concert afterwards, it being Prince Albert’s birthday; and a dance in +servants’ hall, which was attended by charming Lady Churchill, Miss +Cathcart and household. English country dance, Roger de Coverley, etc.: +great fun! Slept at Osborne. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 27.] + +Her Majesty and family off at 10 for London. Returned by 5 P.M. boat to +Portsmouth. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 28.] + +Called on Sir George and Lady Seymour. Off Slaughter House Pier Thomas +tried Francis’ patent iron lifeboat, and was nearly drowned. We dined +with George Lennox. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 29.] + +Board of Admiralty arrived. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 30.] + +Sir Charles Wood informed me that he had decided on my hoisting the +broad pennant in the _Raleigh_ for East Indies. + +[Sidenote: Aug. 31.] + +Went over _Raleigh_ with Turnour: a magnificent frigate. Last of the +sailers. + + + + +CHAPTER LXIII + +THE _RALEIGH_ + + +[Sidenote: 1856. Sept. 1.] + +Portsmouth.--Dined with Admiral-Superintendent to meet First Lord and +Board. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 2.] + +Morning’s post brought letters for the Commodore! Dined with Sir +Charles Wood and Board of Admiralty at George Hotel; jolly on the whole. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 3.] + +Admiralty Board off to town. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 4.] + +Took up commission for _Raleigh_. Pennant hoisted by boatswain’s +wife--good-looking woman, ought to bring luck! + +[Sidenote: London, Sept. 5.] + +No end of business at Admiralty getting officers appointed, etc. + +[Sidenote: Chichester, Sept. 13.] + +Breakfast and shot with Sir Maurice Berkeley; 11½ brace between us. +Dined and slept there. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 19.] + +Started on parting visits. By 8 P.M. train from Euston Station for +Aberdeen. Travelling all night, and still whirling along. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 20.] + +[Sidenote: Gordon Castle, Sept. 21.] + +From Aberdeen by train to Huntly. Picked up there by Prince Edward of +Saxe-Weimar in britzska and conveyed to Gordon Castle; cordial welcome +by everybody to this delightful place. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 22.] + +Drove with Duke and Duchess to the Sea. Lord and Lady Churchill +arrived. Deer-shooting party going some distance, was allowed with +keeper to shoot in park; made capital shot at a buck. Time passing +only too quickly. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 24.] + +Walk to bridge to see swollen Spey. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 25.] + +Shot another buck, cleverly too! Took leave of kind Duchess and friends. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 26.] + +Posted to Huntly; train to Aberdeen and Edinburgh. Put up at Graham’s +Hotel; oyster supper. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 27.] + +By train to Carlisle 9 A.M. Met Isteads, Horrocks, and Campbell. Posted +to Netherby. Kind and hearty welcome by Sir James and Lady Graham. +Bishop of Oxford here. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 28.] + +Forenoon service at Longtown, sermon by Bishop: an excellent and +forcible preacher as well as a most agreeable man. + +[Sidenote: Sept. 29.] + +Went out shooting with young Graham; 20 brace partridges. + +[Sidenote: Ashwarby Park, Sept. 30.] + +Early fly to Carlisle. Train to Newcastle, York, and Grantham. Posted +to Ashwarby Park. Whichcote away shooting, not having received my +letter. Lady Whichcote at home, three Miss Yorkes, and Mrs. Turner. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 2.] + +Rode to Syston; found Cecilia Yorke and Mrs. Broke Turner. Lady Thorold +very nice; men shooting. After luncheon with ladies to Grantham. +I to Newark and Lincoln by train and dogcart--joined Whichcote’s +party--shooting over pointers: turnips, holding water by bucketsful. +George Fitzroy, Freke, G. Bentinck. Party bagged 80½ brace. After +dinner in dogcart to Lincoln. Slept at Great Northern. + +[Sidenote: Norfolk, Oct. 3.] + +By 7 train to Peterborough; on to Ely. Saw Cathedral. On by train to +Harling Road. Met by Eyre and family--my best friends. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 4.] + +After luncheon conveyed to Quidenham. Susan and girls, George, Mrs. and +Miss Trotter, Miss Hamilton, Mrs. Holford. Dear girls, my nieces. Am +again under the paternal roof. Slept in the room brother Francis died +in. To forenoon church, brother Edward performing. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 7.] + +By train to London. Business at Admiralty. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 9.] + +By express to Portsmouth. _Raleigh_ progressing. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 10.] + +Dined with Commander-in-Chief Admiral Sir George Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 14.] + +Before 10 superintended paying off _Cæsar_. Remained till 6 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 15.] + +Presented with handsome sword by much-esteemed young friend Henry +Seymour. [By permission, have since worn no other.] + +[Sidenote: Oct. 17.] + +Dined with Commander-in-Chief Martin, Lady Elizabeth Smith, and Sir +Charles Ogle, a fine old salt! + +[Sidenote: Oct. 19.] + +Dined on board _Nymph_ with Sir John and Lady Bayley. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 20.] + +Dined with Admiral to meet Oglanders. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 23.] + +Glad to find “Thomas” at lodgings. Harry Stephenson coming in afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Oct. 27.] + +Ship alongside hulk. + +[Sidenote: London, Nov. 6.] + +Lindsay up from West Dean. Took him to dine with Stephenson. Meeting +Albemarle and Bury. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 11.] + +As Commodore, left the fitting-out much to old shipmate, Commander +Turnour! + +[Sidenote: Nov. 12.] + +Wife and I by train to Portsmouth, where we put up at the comfortable +Quebec Hotel. Joined by friends Rev. E. Eyre and wife. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 13.] + +Attended Admiral at a meeting at the Sailor’s Home; had to propose a +resolution. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: Nov. 15.] + +It was the kind Commander-in-Chief’s intention to give me a +parting dinner on sailing of _Raleigh_. But to make clear a small +_contretemps_, I must explain. Among the Wardroom officers of the +_Raleigh_ was my old friend the Rev. Josias Thompson. He had been with +me many years, and, as is usual among old shipmates, had established +the nickname of “Thomas.” Many knew him, as did the kind Chief, by no +other. The morning for our leaving the regular Admiralty pilot, whose +name was Thomas, was on board. Two steam tugs ordered from Dockyard in +attendance; the wind being fair, had no idea, in a sailing frigate, +of being towed. Took charge, and was in the act of making sail, when +the dear Chief, who had been to Haslar to attend the funeral of an old +shipmate, suddenly appeared on board, and turning to me said, “Don’t +let me interfere, but is Mr. Thomas on board?” I said he was. “Where is +he?” “Forward on the starboard side, standing on a gun carriage.” I was +too busy making sail to go with him--the tide was rising. On inquiring +who had attended the Commander-in-Chief, I found that he had gone +forward, and making a bow to the pilot, stated that, as the Commodore +was going to take a parting dinner, he hoped to have the pleasure +of Mr. Thomas’s company. The ship ran out like the beauty she was, +saluting Admiral’s flag before coming to anchor. + +Near dinner-time wife and self were among early arrivals. We noticed +a gentleman standing on the rug by the fire with a white choker and +new suit of clothes; no one seemed to know him. Dinner announced, +the Admiral took in my wife, I, Lady Seymour. The turtle soup had +been served, when the Admiral addressed our strange friend with, “Mr. +Thomas, will you have the goodness to say grace?” The poor Pilot’s +neighbour whispered to him, “Say ‘Thank God.’” Dinner over, the dear +Admiral nudged my wife, saying, “That’s a queer parson of yours.” And +then, in a louder voice, called out, “Mr. Thomas, have the goodness +to return thanks.” I at the same time asking Lady Seymour “who Mr. +Thomas was?” Lady Seymour turned to the butler and sent him to tell the +Admiral that Captain Keppel had never seen that man before. At this +moment some of the senior captains spotted our friend the pilot! He +never afterwards met his friends in Portsmouth that they did not ask +him to say grace. + +[Sidenote: _Raleigh_, Nov. 17.] + +Took leave of the clinker-built Quebec, the most comfortable hotel in +Portsmouth. Brother Tom and I dining in gunroom. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 18.] + +Inspected by Commander-in-Chief Sir George Seymour. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 19.] + +Paid farewell visits. “Thomas” and I dined with George Lennox. Friend +Edward Eyre arrived; embarked him and Lennox. After men’s dinner +weighed and ran out by St. Helen’s. Brother Tom, in ill-health, going +with me as far as the Cape of Good Hope. + + + + +CHAPTER LXIV + +THE _RALEIGH_ + + +[Sidenote: 1856. _Raleigh_, Nov. 20.] + +A fine frigate has ever been the favourite class of ship with seamen as +well as officers, and I venture to state a finer crew never left a port. + +List of officers:-- + + _Commander_--Edward W. Turnour. + _Secretary_--Matless G. Autey. + _Lieutenants_--James G. Goodenough, Viscount Gilford, H.R.H. Prince + Victor of Hohenlohe, James S. Graham, W. F. Johnson. + _Master_--William H. Williams. + _Captain of Marines_--Thomas Magin. + _Second Lieutenant of Marines_--Charles L. Owen. + _Chaplain_--Josiah Thompson. + _Surgeon_--John T. Crawford. + _Paymaster_--James G. G. Simmonds. + _Naval Instructor_--John L. Laverty. + _Assistant-Surgeon_--J. G. T. Forbes. + _Midshipmen_--Lord Charles Scott, Hon. Victor A. Montagu, + Hon. F. G. Crofton, Henry F. Stephenson, A. E. Dupuis, + F. R. Foster, Hugh B. Hammersley, Edward Pilkington, + A. Paget, Hardy M‘Hardy. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: At Sea, Nov. 20.] + +Friends Henry Seymour, Eyre, and George Lennox enjoying themselves. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 21.] + +Late in the evening before we came to Plymouth Sound. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 22.] + +Saluted Sir William Parker’s flag at 9 A.M. Called on Newmans at Royal +Hotel, where I took a room. Visited Hartmans at Saltram, where I +found my cousins Mrs. Yorke and daughter. Dined with Sam Truscott--a +character. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 23.] + +Breakfasted with Caroline and Louisa Newman. In afternoon Prince +Victor, Graham, Lord Charles Scott, Harry Stephenson, and I to Saltram +to dine and sleep. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 24.] + +Returned after breakfast to Plymouth. Took Cecilia Yorke and Miss +Coryton on board _Raleigh_. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 25.] + +Was allowed to see Lord Mount-Edgecumbe; cruel wreck of a handsome and +intellectual man. Too down to dine anywhere. Tea with Newman girls. + +[Sidenote: Nov. 26.] + +Weighed at 11 and ran out of the Sound. What may not happen before I +again land in England! + +[Sidenote: Madeira, Dec. 9.] + +Anchored before 1 in Funchal Roads. Kindly received by friend Stoddard, +putting up brother Tom and four youngsters. Hired for the time a horse +Miss O’Rorke used to ride. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 10.] + +Drove Miss Stoddard in pony carriage. Before leaving my brother-in-law, +Harry Stephenson, commissioned me to bring home a pipe of the best +Madeira. I applied to my friend of many years, now Consul, Mr. +Stoddard. He had ceased to be a wine merchant, and the remaining pipes +of the best were put aside as part of the marriage portion of his +charming daughters; he left it to me to make interest with them to +obtain a couple of pipes of this precious wine. I had the pipes encased +in extra casks and stowed in the hold of the _Raleigh_. (It is well I +did so.) + +[Sidenote: Dec. 11.] + +Prince Victor, good fellow! wishing another day in Madeira, consented +to remain over Friday. Rio given up. Rode with Miss Lund. Evening at +Stoddard’s. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 12.] + +“Thomas” and I rode over to the Beans. Same hospitable couple I had +sojourned with in 1824. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 13.] + +Weighed early. Everybody pleased with their visit to Madeira. + +[Sidenote: At Sea, Dec. 23.] + +A marine fell overboard, and was saved by a gallant fellow of the name +of Moodie, second-class ordinary. The night was dark, and the two +life-buoys let go by a marine, stationed for the purpose, without first +pulling the igniting trigger, were lost. + +[Sidenote: Dec. 25.] + +Christmas Day. All the youngsters and warrant officers, including +Turnour, Autey, Thompson, and brother Tom, to dine--sixteen in all. How +many of us will meet next Christmas! “Qui en sabe?” + +[Sidenote: Dec. 26.] + +Neptune came on board and performed the usual ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER LXV + +CAPE TO CHINA + + +[Sidenote: 1857.] + +[Sidenote: Simon’s Bay, Jan. 17.] + +9 P.M.--Arrived in Simon’s Bay, just five weeks from Madeira, and the +fastest passage by a sailing ship on record. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 18.] + +This cape always brings happy recollections of bygone days, when I was +free as the air and without a care or thought beyond the present. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 19.] + +Hired a two-wheel pair-horse cart and drove brother Tom, three +youngsters, and Thompson to Cape Town. Parke’s hotel. Called with Tom +on Mrs. Stoll, Longmores, and the Lorentzs. At Lorentz’s met their +daughter Louisa, whom I had last seen as a pretty child, riding like a +boy on a goat. She was now a widow; the handsome mother of six children. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 20.] + +A regular Cape north-easter blowing. Nothing to be done afloat. Tom and +I breakfasting with the Stolls. Dined at _table d’hôte_--a large party. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 21.] + +To Sans Souci to call. Tea at Lorentz’s, meeting Stolls. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 24.] + +Landed £50,000 in gold; sent £300 in copper to _Penelope_. Governor +kindly lending his eight-horse waggon, started for Simon’s Bay, calling +at Sans Souci and on the Bishop. + +[Sidenote: Jan. 29.] + +Dined to-day with the midshipmen. We sat down twenty-four. Not only +was their mess good and comfortable, with everything clean and in good +taste, but one could not have met a nicer set of lads. They appeared in +clean white waistcoats. Felt proud of my boys! + +[Sidenote: Mar. 9.] + +At last we have rounded Acheen Head and passed through the “Surat” +passage into the Malacca Straits. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 11.] + +In a calm let go first anchor in India. From this date our _batta_ +commences. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 12.] + +Came to in Penang Roads; was saluted. On landing took up my quarters +with friend Lewis. Old Jack Rodyk here. With Lewis, two daughters, one +just from England, and a Miss Neubrouner. + +[Sidenote: Penang, Mar. 13.] + +Ship taking in water and otherwise getting ready, but contrary to my +religion to start on a Friday. Dined with Campbell, late of Singapore. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 14.] + +Weighed before daylight. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 15.] + +Came up with the barque on board of which were Miss Blundell and Amy +Neubrouner. Serenaded them in passing. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 19.] + +Arrived in New Harbour; so altered and improved. Called on Governor, +who lodged me on the hill. Dined with Biddle at Adelphi; met Anabassim: +the rogue still alive. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 20.] + +The saddest news of a treacherous and murderous attack made by Chinese +on my noble friend, James Brooke, at Sarawak. Dear and noble Rajah, +would that I could rush to his assistance. + +[Sidenote: Singapore, Mar. 21.] + +Received a “welcome back” in an address signed by most of the +residents. Dined with Sir William Hoste on board _Spartan_. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 22.] + +Dined with friend Davidson in his new capacity of married man. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 23.] + +Dined with Napier and his wife, meeting Mrs. Earle with a ten-year-old +child, a most promising filly! (Met her again as Mrs. Alt.) + +[Sidenote: Mar. 24.] + +_Spartan_, Sir William Hoste, starting in tow of steamer to the +assistance of Brooke, taking Prince Victor with him, to rejoin us at +Hong-Kong. Delayed departure until after dark. Dined with Governor +Blundell. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 25.] + +Weighed in the night. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 28.] + +Poor Laverty departed this life at 2. Yesterday week overtook him and +Owen walking up from new harbour to Singapore in the heat of the day, +and admonished them for their rashness. They have since been delirious +with fever, which in Laverty’s case ended fatally. + +[Sidenote: Mar. 29.] + +Committed the remains of poor Laverty to the deep. How preferable such +a burial and grave to a shore funeral! + +[Sidenote: April 13.] + +During the forenoon passed through bamboo fishing buoys, too numerous +to be avoided, but we did them no injury, the bamboo floating +perpendicularly some six or eight feet out of the water, and +distinguished by a small flag or rag on the top. + +[Sidenote: April 14.] + +Early, we made the land to the southward of Macao. Shortly after noon, +running through the usual passage between the islands--guns loaded to +salute the flag--I had just signed the usual returns, when we felt as +if the ship had struck some heavy floating timber: the leadsman calling +“By the mark, seven,” at the same time reports from the lower deck that +daylight could be seen through the rent in the ship’s side. We beat +to quarters: an unusual event during the men’s dinner hour! I knew we +were nearly equidistant from Hong-Kong and Macao. I took a second view +from below. With the easterly wind we might fetch Hong-Kong, but for +Macao, we should have to run before it. We bore up. My trusty Turnour +repeated orders clearly and distinctly. I took charge of the conning +of the ship, the men working cheerfully. My object was to ground in +shoal water. While running we passed so close to more than one small +island that a man might have dropped on shore from the rigging. After +a while, from the hammock-netting where I stood, a ship at anchor off +Macao was seen. With a glass we made her out to be a frigate flying the +French Admiral’s flag. The first lieutenant was directed to lower fore +royal, hoist French flag and fire a salute. The foremost main-deck guns +had been run aft to prevent the ship from settling forward; they were +already loaded for our own flag. Most of our after-ports had more than +one muzzle protruding. A boat was seen coming from the French ship, but +there was nothing to show that we were in distress beyond our ensign at +the peak, hoisted Union Jack downwards, which could not be seen from +Macao on account of studding sails. It was a few minutes after this, I +felt we were nearing the bottom. By feeling the bow rise ever so gently +I knew we had touched the mud-bank between the Roko and Typa Islands. +The French boat was alongside before we knew that we were no longer +forging ahead. + +The officer was quickly informed what had happened. The frigate was the +_Virginie_, carrying the flag of Rear-Admiral Guérin, who came himself +to see how he could help us. His officer met him at the gangway and +without delay explained what had happened. The gallant Guérin no longer +thought of nationalities. He embraced and kissed me, exclaiming, “C’est +magnifique! C’est magnifique!” A British frigate saluting the French +flag while sinking! If we had been French we could not have received +more kind assistance. In the meantime marines with their officers were +landed to clear the island of Chinese, and select a suitable place for +our encampment. When the ship stopped in the mud at 3 P.M., she had ten +feet of water in the hold. By eight o’clock she had eighteen. With the +assistance of our allies, the ship’s company’s hammocks and bags, goods +and chattels, as well as ship’s sails, had been landed. On the way +out we had built a bridge across before the mizen-mast, and over the +wheel. On this I remained, the kind Frenchmen sending me food and some +uncommon good claret. The French Admiral had despatched the _Catinat_ +with Lieutenant Goodenough to Hong-Kong. + +[Sidenote: April 15.] + +_Bittern_, Lieutenant Butler, arrived. + +[Sidenote: April 16.] + +The Admiral, Sir Michael Seymour, who had been absent, came himself. +The ship settled down in her soft bed as if she intended never to rise +again. + +[Sidenote: April 17.] + +Captain Keith Stewart, _Nankin_, 50, and _Inflexible_ arrived; we +really did not require them. + + * * * * * + +The Commander-in-Chief was now busy preparing for the destruction of +the China Fleet, which, being up rivers and creeks, our men were more +useful in boats than on board ship. + +[Sidenote: April 20.] + +My broad pennant was hoisted on board the _Alligator_, hospital ship. +With the _Raleigh’s_ crew alone we dismantled and cleared the ship +even to the ballast. It was something to get lower masts out, and with +the assistance of our spars only. The bowsprit was the most difficult. +Clearing the holds was disagreeable. After a while the bilge water +began to smell. My two pipes of Madeira, fortunately double-cased, +were not affected. After the ship’s stores we looked out for +ourselves. Chronometers, etc., were removed to my cabin, under sentry’s +charge--from there, with a trustworthy crew of five men and a coxswain, +to the _Alligator_. Later, my steward, no more trusty man in the ship +except my coxswain, Spurrier, came to me with sad face to state that +Lord Gilford’s pet chronometer watch, which was kept and used with +those of the Government, was missing! Search was made in vain, poor +White offering £10 reward. + +[Sidenote: Macao.] + +Those princely merchants, Dent and Co., as well as Mathieson, kept open +house. They lived in palaces. I had apartments at the Dents’ bungalow +at Hong Kong as well as rooms at Macao--passenger steamers running +daily. On a late occasion the Chinese passengers had risen, took +possession, murdered the Europeans. A ship’s captain, Cleverly by name, +as well as by nature, jumped overboard. He was badly wounded while +swimming, but was picked up and had rooms at Dent’s Macao house. I need +not say that after this Chinese passengers were accommodated in an iron +cage, where they enjoyed their opium. + +[Sidenote: April 24.] + +Lieutenants Prince Victor and Johnson, who had gone with Hoste in +_Spartan_ from Singapore to visit Rajah Brooke at Sarawak, rejoined us. + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, April 25.] + +The dockyard at Hong Kong full of _Raleigh’s_ stores, guns, anchors, +cables, shot, etc.--sails spread out to dry. + +[Sidenote: April 28.] + +Excellent dinner at French Minister’s. Madame Bourboulon charming. +Smokes regalias only. + +[Sidenote: April 29.] + +Renewed acquaintance with pretty Mrs. Endicott and Mrs. Parkes. + +[Sidenote: April 30.] + +Mail arrived. Ministers beaten on China question. Parliament to be +dissolved: nevertheless, Plenipo and troops coming out. Inspection +held on my _Raleigh_. My boys, Victor Montagu and Harry Stephenson, on +shore. + +_Macao, May 1._ + +Letter from Turnour’s brother asking me to break to that good-hearted +fellow the death of his father. Went on board in Gibb’s yacht, the +_Zouave_. Dined with him. + +[Sidenote: May 3.] + +Hope my _Raleigh_ will be got up. Doubts whether Admiral will attempt +it. + +[Sidenote: Hong Kong, May 5.] + +Met Admiral and large party at dinner at Dent’s. Judge Hulm fine old +fellow. + +[Sidenote: May 6.] + +Gilford and I to dine with Pereira and William Dent. Excellent dinner +and everything to match. + +[Sidenote: May 7.] + +Business with my worthy chief about _Calcutta_; transferred youngsters +to that ship. + +[Sidenote: May 12.] + +Great and good feed at friend Cane’s, now Lieutenant-Governor. Dinner +to meet me. Some six-and-twenty sat down. + +[Sidenote: May 13.] + +Arrival of _Highflyer_ and gunboats. With Admiral in _Coromandel_ to +visit vessels in Canton River. Came to near _Sybille_ below second fort. + +[Sidenote: May 14.] + +Went on as far as Macao Fort. Left _Raleigh’s_ band there. All the +vessels, as well as their commanders, ready for work. Came to near +_Niger_. Mandarin junks’ masts in sight. + +[Sidenote: May 18.] + +Tenders for raising _Raleigh_ not such as the Admiral could accept. +Alas! my poor ship--now to be considered _lost_; she must be sold where +she is, and I to be tried by court-martial! + +[Sidenote: May 21.] + +Laid up the last three days, attended by kind Doctor Anderson. + + + + +INDEX + + + Abercorn, the Duke of, iii. 333 + + Accra, i. 214, 221, 232, 238, 242; iii. 72 + + Adam, General Sir Frederick, i. 148 + Sir Charles, ii. 46 + + Adeane, Lieutenant, iii. 55 + + Adelaide, Queen, i. 121, 160, 246 + + Aden, iii. 118, 119 + + Admiralty Islands, ii. 150 + + _Adventure_, iii. 174, 180 + + _Africa_, i. 7, 12, 13 + + Agar-Ellis, Miss, ii. 201 + + Ailesbury, Lady, iii. 322 + + Ainos, the, iii. 199 + + Aitkin, Lieutenant, iii. 235 + + _Alabama_, iii. 83 + + Åland Islands, ii. 232 + + Albany, ii. 142 + + _Albatross_, ii. 81, 127 + + Albemarle, George, 3rd Earl, i. 59 + William Charles, 4th Earl, i. 4, 5, 7, 67, 102, 160, 248, 249, 251, + 252, 253, 254, 256; ii. 41, 43, 46, 58 + Augustus Frederick, 5th Earl; _see_ Keppel + George Thomas, 6th Earl; _see_ Keppel + Lord, i. 14 + + Albert of Saxe-Coburg, Prince Consort, i. 250, 251; ii. 313, 324; + iii. 38, 39, 78, 80 + + Alcock, Sir Rutherford, iii. 143, 171, 192, 194, 236, 237, 259 + + Alexandria, i. 170, 178; iii. 18, 117 + + Alfred, Prince; _see_ Edinburgh, Duke of + + _Algerine_, iii. 224 + + Algoa Bay, iii. 46 + + Ali, Pangeran Oman, ii. 84 + + Ali, Patingi, ii. 7; iii. 125 + + Alicante, i. 187, 188, 190 + + Allen, R. C., ii. 3 + + _Alligator_, ii. 337; iii. 2, 8 + + Allison, William, ii. 160 + + Alma, the, ii. 240 + + Amaral, Don Joao Maria Farriera do, ii. 116, 121 + + _Amazon_, ii. 115 + + Amboyna, ii. 147 + + _America_ yacht, ii. 203 + + Amoor River, iii. 192, 210 + + Amoy, iii. 138, 139, 220 + + _Amphion_, ii. 47, 234 + + Amping, iii. 224 + + Andover, Lord and Lady, i. 7, 255 + + Andrade, Count Manuel Carvalho Pas de, i. 40, 41, 42 + + Anjer, ii. 129 + + Anson, Eliza, Lady Waterpark, i. 8, 12 + Thomas, i. 7, 163 + Hon. William, i. 8, 22 + + Armitage, Whaley, i. 85, 87, 264, 273 + + Ascension, i. 90, 243, 244; iii. 69 + + Ashantis, the, i. 214, 218, 222 + + Astley, Sir Jacob, i. 14 + + Auckland, Lord, ii. 44, 46 + + Auckland, N.Z., ii. 171 + + _Auckland_, ii. 77, 79 + + _Aurora_, i. 14, 43, 44, 61 + + Australia, ii. 132, 134, 152 + + _Australia_, ii. 128, 129 + + + Bahia; _see_ San Salvador + + Baker, Sir Samuel, iii. 320 + Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 123 + + Balaclava, ii. 252, 255, 258, 262 + + Balambangan, ii. 94, 127 + + Balfour, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81 + + Bali Island, ii. 131 + + Baltic, the, ii. 220 + + Banda Islands, ii. 144, 146 + + Bankok, iii. 229 + + Bannerman, Mr., i. 221, 243 + + Barbadoes, i. 56, 108 + + Barcelona, i. 188, 189, 191, 195-197, 200 + + Baring, Admiral Sir Francis, ii. 201 + + Barnard, General, ii. 246, 279 + + Barösund, ii. 226 + + Barrington, Commander Hon. George, i. 51 + + Barton, A., ii. 3 + + _Basilisk_, iii. 192 + + Batang Lupar River, i. 311; ii. 2 + + Batavia, i. 147, 216; ii. 129, 130, 131 + + Bathurst, iii. 72 + + Bay of Islands, N.Z., ii. 171 + + Beatrice, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 36 + + Beaufort, Sir Francis, ii. 201 + + Bedford, Mr. D. B., i. 136, 139 + + Beefsteak Club, the, i. 96, 97 + + Beith, R., surgeon, ii. 3 + + Belcher, Captain Sir Edward, ii. 18 + + Belem, ii. 213 + + Bell, Admiral, iii. 177 + + _Belleisle_, i. 261, 264, 269, 272, 275, 277 + + _Bellerophon_, i. 200 + + Bentinck, Lord George, ii. 326; iii. 101, 109; + _see_ Cavendish-Bentinck + + Beresford, Lord James, i. 187 + Admiral Sir John de la Poer, i. 121 + + Berkeley, Admiral Hon. Sir George, i. 163 + Lady Georgina Mary, i. 163 + Admiral Sir Maurice, ii. 244; iii. 29 + + Bessani; _see_ Grand Bessani + + “Bishop of Bond Street, the,” ii. 70 + + _Bittern_, iii. 1 + + Black Sea, ii. 251 + + Bladen-Capel, Admiral Hon. Sir T., ii. 199 + + Blake, Lieutenant, i. 42, 44 + Colonel, i. 75, 84, 88 + + Blakiston, Captain, iii. 238 + + Blanckley, Commander Edward, i. 123 + + Bogue Forts, ii. 54 + + Bomarsund, ii. 231, 233, 238 + + Bombay, iii. 14 + + Bonard, Commodore, ii. 177 + + Bonham, George, i. 147, 263, 288 + + Borneo, i. 290, 292; ii. 9; iii. 127 + + Botany Bay, ii. 153, 164 + + Boto Fogo, i. 36 + + Bouchier, Captain, i. 273, 278 + + _Bouncer_, iii. 234 + + Bourbon, i. 85 + + Bouverie, Admiral Hon. Duncombe, i. 244 + + Bowles, Admiral, iii. 281 + + Bowyear, Captain George Leger, ii. 57, 58, 59, 158, 177 + + Boxer, Admiral, ii. 251, 262 + + Boyd, Benjamin, ii. 157 + + Bozin, Prince, iii. 180, 181 + + Bradshaw, Commander Manser, ii. 227 + + Braybroke, Lord and Lady, i. 162 + + _Brazen_, i. 41, 42, 97 + + Bremer, Captain Sir J. G., ii. 134 + + Brierly, Sir Oswald, ii. 156, 157, 182, 203, 210 + + Briggs, Admiral Sir Thomas, i. 168 + + _Brisk_, iii. 45 + + Brooke, Brooke, iii. 11 + Rajah, i. 288-296, 298, 299, 302, 306, 308, 312, 313, 317, 319, + 333, 339; ii. 1, 3, 6, 21, 23, 30, 43, 44, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, + 62, 63, 65, 70, 76, 82, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90-92, 103, 111, 127, + 202, 322, 334; iii. 11, 13, 29, 96, 115, 123, 220 + + Brooker, Commander, iii. 194, 260 + + Brougham, Henry (Lord High Chancellor), i. 97 + Lord, i. 11, 177 + + Brougham and Vaux, Lady, iii. 25 + + Broughton, Lord, i. 97 + + Browne, Sir Samuel, ii. 45 + + Brunei, ii. 45, 82; iii. 126 + + Buccleuch, Duchess of, iii. 326 + + Buckland, Francis Trevelyan, iii. 82 + + Buckley, Commander, V.C., iii. 40 + + Budrudeen, Pangeran, i. 306; ii. 1, 42, 84 + + Buffalo River, iii. 46 + + Buffon Bay, i. 209, 210 + + Bulkeley, Sir Richard, i. 93, 98; ii. 42 + + Bullen, Admiral Sir Charles, ii. 55 + + Bulman, Mr., i. 257, 262, 263 + + Bunting, ii. 21 + + Buonaparte; _see_ Napoleon + + Burdett, Sir Francis, i. 8, 9, 14 + + Burdett-Coutts, Miss, iii. 115, 124 + + Burlton, Lieutenant, iii. 56 + + Burnaby, Mr., ii. 121, 122 + + Burton, Judge, and Mrs., i. 71 + + Bury, Viscount, i. 254 + + Bush, Commander, iii. 221 + Mr., ii. 116 + + Butterworth, Colonel, ii. 24, 76 + + Byng, H., ii. 48 + + Byron, Captain Lord, i. 43 + + + Cabrera, General, i. 188 + + Cagayan Sulu, ii. 97, 109, 111 + + Cairo, iii. 18 + + Calcutta, i. 150, 152, 333, 334 + + _Calcutta_, iii. 3 + + Calderon, Don, i. 195 + + _Caledonia_, i. 168, 170, 200 + + Calverley, S., ii. 3 + + _Cambrian_, ii. 46 + + Cambridge, H.R.H. Duke of, i. 251; ii. 249; iii. 25, 322 + + Campbell, Colonel Sir Colin, i. 262, 269, 272; ii. 80, 82, 252, 301 + Admiral Sir Patrick, C.B., i. 55, 244 + + Canning, George, i. 25 + + _Canopus_, i. 169, 170, 171, 176 + + Canrobert, Marshal, ii. 267 + + Canton, i. 281, 325; ii. 54; iii. 132, 231 + River, ii. 15; iii. 8 + + Cape Coast, i. 214, 216, 217, 221 + + Cape de Verd Islands, i. 33, 71 + + Cape of Good Hope, i. 68, 69, 71, 72, 77, 87, 159, 202, 262 + + Cape Town, iii. 67 + + Caroline, Queen, i. 8 + + Carteret, Captain, ii. 152 + + Carthagena, i. 59, 198 + + Casher, E., ii. 55, 199 + + Castries Bay, iii. 214 + + Cavendish-Bentinck, Lord William, i. 84, 153 + + Cavite, i. 331; ii. 125 + + Celebes Islands, ii. 108 + + Ceram Islands, ii. 146 + + Chads, Commodore Henry D., i. 338, 339 + + Challier, Commodore, iii. 274 + + Charlotte, Princess, i. 6 + + Chefoo, iii. 172, 192, 264 + + Chernaze, ii. 263 + + Chersonese; _see_ Khersonese + + Chesterfield, Lord, iii. 328 + + Chiang Kiang-Fu, i. 270, 271 + + _Childers_, i. 68, 164, 165, 174, 175, 193, 198, 244, 272, 274 + + Chin-kiang, iii. 221, 238 + + Christmas Island, ii. 75 + + Church, Thomas, ii. 77 + + Churchill, Captain Lord John, i. 66, 73, 77, 82, 110, 249, 280 + + Chusan, i. 266, 277 + + Ciervo Island, ii. 188 + + Clarence, William, Duke of, i. 68 + + Clarendon, Lord, iii. 265 + + Clark, John, surgeon, ii. 143 + + Clifford, Sir Augustus, i. 67, 84 + Lady de, i. 52 + + _Clio_, i. 190, 191, 272 + + Clyde, Lord; _see_ Campbell, Sir Colin + + Coaker, Jonas, i. 69, 83, 165, 249; ii. 53 + + Coburg Peninsula, ii. 134, 136 + + Cochrane, Hon. A. J., i. 27 + Admiral Sir Thomas; _see_ Dundonald (“Young”), iii. 4 + + _Cockchafer_, iii. 187, 233 + + Codrington, Admiral Sir Edward, i. 68 + Colonel, ii. 46 + + Coghlan, Colonel, iii. 118 + + Coke, Edward, ii. 41, 201 + Henry (“Wenny”), i. 249, 264; ii. 256, 281; iii. 19 + Thomas William (Earl of Leicester), i. 7, 8, 14, 15, 47, 278 + + Cole, General Sir Lowry, i. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83 + Lady Frances, i. 78 + + Collier, Captain Sir Francis, i. 108, 109, 112, 249, 251; ii. 47, 82, + 128 + + Collingwood, Admiral, i. 13 + + _Colombo_, ii. 270 + + Colonna, the Marquis de, i. 195 + + _Colossus_, ii. 312 + + _Columbine_, i. 170, 176, 180, 231, 232, 278; ii. 116 + + Colville, Admiral Lord, i. 29, 48 + Sir Charles, i. 77, 85, 87 + + Comba Island, ii. 132 + + Comber, Lieutenant Henry W., ii. 3, 5, 45, 58, 74, 79, 125, 128 + + Commerell, Admiral of the Fleet Sir J. E., ii. 73 + + Conolly, Mr., iii. 143, 192 + + Constantinople, i. 175, 176; ii. 251, 312 + + Conti, General, i. 189 + + Cook, Captain, ii. 153 + + Cooke, T. P., i. 97, 105 + + Cook’s Straits, ii. 169 + + Cork, i. 29, 30, 48, 49 + + _Cormorant_, ii. 199; iii. 139 + + _Cornwallis_, i. 264, 269, 272, 273, 331 + + Corromanli, Ali, i. 172 + Youssuf, i. 171 + + Corry, Admiral Sir A. Lowry, ii. 210, 224, 231 + + Corvé Bay, iii. 173, 191 + + Cotton, Lieutenant Alexander, i. 101, 105 + + Courtenay, Captain, iii. 198 + + Cracroft, Commander Peter, ii. 208 + + Creighton, Captain, iii. 187 + + Crimea, the, ii. 218, 244 + + Croker, Rt. Hon. John Wilson, i. 105 + + Crosbie, Catherine; _see_ Lady Keppel + General Sir John, i. 92, 246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253, 255; ii. 27 + “Dob,” iii. 145 + Lieutenant John, i. 89, 91, 92, 251 + William, ii. 55 + + _Cumberland_, ii. 235; iii. 115 + + Cumming, Captain Arthur, iii. 76 + + _Cygnet_, ii. 40 + + + D’Aeth, E. H. H., i. 276; ii. 3, 6, 289 + + Dalarö Channel, ii. 224 + + Dalkeith, Lord, iii. 326 + + Daniell, Commander, ii. 127 + + Darby, G. S., ii. 3 + + Dardanelles, the, i. 176; ii. 249 + + _Dauntless_, ii. 230, 231 + + Davis, Sir John, ii. 111 + + de Grey, Lord, iii. 322 + + de Horsey, Captain Algernon, iii. 44, 45, 55 + + Delagoa Bay, iii. 46 + + De Lesseps, M. Ferdinand, iii. 118 + + Delmé, George, i. 81 + + Denison, Sir William, ii. 158, 163 + + Dent, John, and Co., iii. 143 + + Deschênes, Admiral A. F. Parseval, ii. 226-228 + + D’Eyncourt, Captain, ii. 73 + + _Dido_, i. 255, 256, 257, 262, 270, 272, 277, 319, 326, 332, 340; ii. + 1, 29, 30 + + Digby, Lord, i. 12 + Edward, i. 12, 98 + Admiral Sir Henry, i. 7, 12, 13, 14; ii. 219 + Admiral Hon. R., i. 12 + + D’Israeli, Isaac, iii. 230 + + Dixcove, i. 213-215 + + D’Orsay, Count, i. 163. + + Douglas, Bloomfield, i. 302, 304 + + Dover, Lord, ii. 201 + + Drake, Sir Frederick, ii. 185 + + Droxford, i. 249, 253; ii. 28 + + Drummond, Edward, ii. 26 + + Duè, iii. 215 + + Dundas, Hon. Admiral George, i. 97, 119 + Admiral J. W. Deans, ii. 47, 57, 128, 201 + Captain Richard Deans, i. 55, 244 + + Dundee, iii. 111 + + Dundonald, Earl, i. 14, 36, 38, 39-42, 163, 256, 278, 280, 322, 331; + ii. 68, 212 + + Dunkin, Captain Thomas, i. 77 + + _Dupleix_, iii. 186, 187, 227 + + Dupplin, Lord, iii. 323 + + + Eager, John, ii. 7 + + Eastern Archipelago, ii. 115 + + Eastern Archipelago Company, ii. 63, 127 + + East London, Port of, iii. 46 + + Eden, Commander Henry, ii. 47 + + Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, iii. 40, 278, 284-315 + + _Edinburgh_, i. 169, 170 + + Elgin, Lord, iii. 10, 241 + + Ellesmere, Lord, ii. 61, 65, 191 + + Ellice, Robert, ii. 116 + + Ellis, Commander Henry, i. 127 + + Ellis and Co., iii. 223 + + Elphinstone, Lord, iii. 14 + + Emhammud, i. 172 + + Emmanuel, Emmanuel, iii. 323 + + Emot, Captain, iii. 177 + + _Endymion_, i. 168, 180, 183, 184, 266, 274, 278 + + Enslie, Consul, iii. 298 + + Erskine, Captain J. E., ii. 164 + + Esche, Mr., iii. 194, 202 + + _Espoir_, i. 68, 69, 77, 86 + + Essington, Port, ii. 132, 134, 144 + + Etholin, Captain, ii. 302; iii. 218 + + Eupatoria, ii. 261 + + Europa Island, iii. 50 + + Eyre, Captain, i. 74, 260 + + Eyres, Captain Henry, i. 242, 278 + + + Fairfax-Moresby, Admiral, ii. 195 + + Farquhar, Captain, ii. 81, 127 + + Fatshan Creek, iii. 2 + + Fernando Po, i. 223, 224 + + Ferraz, Captain-General Valentine, i. 187, 188, 225 + + Figueroa, Don Cayetano de, ii. 107 + + _Firebrand_, ii. 73 + + _Firm_, iii. 177 + + _Firmee_, iii. 9 + + Fitzroy, Colonel, i. 71, 72, 87 + Commander Arthur, ii. 153; iii. 70 + Captain Augustus, ii. 40, 153, 157, 303 + Sir Charles, ii. 40, 153, 155, 164 + George, ii. 40, 153, 157; iii. 192, 205 + Mary, ii. 40, 153 + + Flowers, Consul, iii. 301 + + Foley, St. George, ii. 310 + Sir George, iii. 9 + + Foochow, iii. 236 + + Ford, Captain, i. 148 + + Formosa, iii. 222, 223 + + _Forte_, iii. 39, 41, 65, 77 + + Fukevitche, Captain, iii. 206 + + Funchal Roads, i. 30; ii. 70, 214; iii. 41 + + Furnhjelm, Admiral Jean, iii. 194, 195, 206, 208, 212 + + _Fury_, ii. 115, 128 + + + Gage, Admiral Sir William Hall, i. 55, 81, 184; ii. 52 + + _Galatea_, i. 100, 101, 103, 105; iii. 284, 299, 302 + + Galle; _see_ Point de Galle + + Gambia River, iii. 71 + + Garibaldi, iii. 83 + + Garnier, George, i. 16, 19 + Henry, i. 148, 159 + Lieutenant Keppel, iii. 190, 231 + Thomas (Dean), i. 15, 16, 25, 103 + Thomas, iii. 324 + William, i. 15 + + _Gazelle_, ii. 185, 187 + + Geisinger, Commodore, ii. 116 + + George IV., King, i. 74, 102 + + Gibraltar, i. 168, 184, 189, 194, 196, 200, 201; ii. 217, 248 + + Gibson, Consul, iii. 224, 226 + + Gilford, Lieutenant Lord, iii. 1, 20 + + Glanville, Mr., i. 74, 85, 86, 103, 104 + + Gleichen, Count, iii. 25 + + Goldsmith, Captain George, i. 68, 165, 174, 203, 206, 208, 222, 249; + ii. 68 + + Goodwood, ii. 55 + + Gordon, Sir James, ii. 42, 57 + General C. G., iii. 245 + + Goschen, Mr., iii. 326 + + Gough, General Sir Hugh, i. 264, 266, 272, 273 + + Gouldisborough, iii. 182 + + Gower, Consul, iii. 299 + + Graham, Captain Charles, i. 331; ii. 59 + Sir James, i. 119, 164; ii. 210, 256 + Lieutenant Stanley, ii. 230; iii. 1, 3 + + Grancy, Comte G. F. E. de, iii. 227 + + Grand Bessani, i. 212 + + Grant, Captain James Augustus, iii. 41, 46 + Charles, iii. 11 + Lieutenant Hope, i. 98, 332, 333 + + Greville, Commander Henry F., i. 68, 69, 77 + + Grey, Admiral Sir Frederick, i. 266, 273, 278; ii. 216, 251; iii. 45, + 78 + Sir George, iii. 40, 41, 45, 78, 79 + Captain Hon. Sir George, i. 22 + Captain Hon. George, i. 22, 201; ii. 249 + + Gurdon, Lieutenant, iii. 224, 225, 226 + + Guyamas, ii. 190, 191 + + Gye, Frederick, iii. 25 + Lieutenant Herbert, iii. 235 + + + Haddington, Lord, ii. 30, 31 + + Hakodadi, iii. 159, 161, 219 + + Hall, Captain J., i. 271, 278; iii. 1 + + Halstead, Admiral Sir Lawrence, i. 57 + + Hamilton, Lord Claud, iii. 327 + Kerr Baillie, i. 82 + + Hankow, iii. 243, 249 + + Hara-Kari, ceremony of the, iii. 182 + + Hardinge, Lieutenant-Colonel, i. 81 + + Hardy, Sir Thomas, i. 69, 119, 164 + + _Harlequin_, i. 60, 61, 184, 197, 200, 264, 274, 322, 333 + + Harris, Commander Sir W., ii. 68; iii. 194 + + _Hartford_, iii. 183 + + Hartington, Lord, iii. 322 + + Harvey, Admiral Edward, iii. 40 + + Hastie, ii. 47 + + _Hastings_, ii. 128 + + Hathorn, John, i. 43, 44 + + Havana, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 118 + + Hawley, Sir Joseph, i. 248, 249 + Lady; _see_ Sara Crosbie + + Hay, Commander John Dalrymple, ii. 116 + + Hayti, i. 61 + + Heki Hone, ii. 171 + + Henderson, Commander Thomas, i. 231, 232 + + Heneage, Admiral, i. 102 + Captain Algernon C. F., iii. 70, 115, 222, 223, 316 + + Henessey, Pope, iii. 230 + + Herbert, Sir Thomas, i. 264 + + Hewitt, Captain, iii. 192, 283 + + Hickley, Captain, iii. 174 + + _Highflyer_, iii. 8 + + Hill, Colonel, i. 66 + Dr., iii. 192, 231 + Captain Sir John, i. 107, 110, 255, 257, 258 + Lieutenant, i. 228, 232 + Lady Georgina; _see_ Keppel + + Hilliers, General Barraguay d’, ii. 231 + + Hillyar, Lady, ii. 68 + + _Hind_, i. 168, 176, 180, 200 + + Hiogo, iii. 173, 174, 180, 187, 188 + + Hirado Strait, iii. 194 + + Hislop, James, i. 71 + + Hobart Town, ii. 157, 160 + + Hobhouse, Sir John Cam, i. 97; ii. 47 + + Hockham, ii. 33, 37, 38, 49, 61 + + Hodgson, General, iii. 119 + + Hogarth, i. 96 + + Holkham, i. 8, 15, 161, 248, 251; iii. 18 + + Holland, H.M. the Queen of, iii. 85 + Henry, Lord, i. 1 + + Holman, Joseph, i. 85 + + Holyoake, Mr., i. 126, 129 + + Home, Captain Sir Everard, i. 275, 276, 277 + + Honeywood, W. P., i. 97 + + Hong Kong, i. 264, 278, 280, 322, 325-327, 331, 337; ii. 113-115; + iii. 9, 113, 129, 172, 180, 186, 220, 231, 234, 311 + + _Hong-Kong_, iii. 1, 2, 4, 8 + + Hooghly River, i. 155 + + Hook, Theodore, i. 121 + + Hope, Captain, ii. 73 + + Hornby, Sir E., iii. 296 + James G. P., i. 22 + Admiral Sir Phipps, ii. 181, 195, 131 + + Horsey, Captain Algernon de, iii. 44, 45-55 + + Horton, Captain Frederick Wilmot, i. 274, 276, 294, 296, 297, + 312-316, 325; ii. 40, 256 + + Hoste, Admiral Sir William, i. 15, 22; ii. 42 + + Howard, Commander Hon. Edward, i. 199 + + Howden, Lord, ii. 73 + + Hughes, Colonel, i. 93 + + Hume, David, ii. 44, 63 + + Hunn, Captain Frederick, i. 25, 26, 33, 36, 55, 65, 168 + + Hunt, Captain James, i. 304; ii. 239 + + Huntingfield, Lord, iii. 323 + + Hussein, Seriff, ii. 95 + + Hutton, Lieutenant Frederick, i. 119, 124, 136, 157, 200 + + _Hydra_, ii. 65 + + + Ibbetson, Robert, i. 147 + + _Icarus_, iii. 170, 222 + + Ichaboa Island, iii. 68 + + Illanuns, the, i. 294 + + _Inconstant_, ii. 181 + + India, ii. 62 + + _Inflexible_, ii. 115 + + Ingestre, Captain Lord, i. 169, 176, 177, 187 + Lady Sarah, i. 187 + + Inglefield, Admiral, ii. 76 + + Inglis, Bishop J., i. 52, 53 + + Inkerman, ii. 259, 280 + + + Jaffer, Seriff, i. 311, 317; ii. 2, 19, 21 + + Jago, Commissary-General, i. 79 + + Java, ii. 131 + + Jenkins, Lieutenant Robert, i. 333; ii. 3 + + Jephson, Dr., i. 253 + + Jerdan, Mr., ii. 30, 62, 63 + + “John Company,” i. 133, 134 + + Johnson, C., ii. 3 + Lieutenant W. F., iii. 1 + + Johore, the Tumongong of, iii. 122 + + Joinville, Prince de, i. 201 + + Jones, Sir Harry, ii. 284 + + Jones, Commodore Oliver, iii. 129, 220 + + Jonos, the, iii. 165 + + + Kaga, Prince, iii. 169 + + Kalamanta Bay, i. 180 + + Kapiti Island, ii. 171 + + Karabonu, Cape, i. 168, 176 + + Karangan, ii. 16 + + Kazatch, ii. 262, 266 + + Kearney, Major, iii. 2 + + _Kearsage_, iii. 83 + + Kellett, Admiral Sir H., iii. 310 + + Kempt, General Sir James, i. 54 + + Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, iii. 36 + + KEPPEL, ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET SIR HENRY:-- + Birth, i. 1 + Christening, i. 1 + School-days, i. 2-5 + Choice of a career, i. 7 + Preparation for the Navy, i. 14 + Enters the Royal Naval College, Gosport, i. 16 + First voyage, i. 27 + Marries Catherine, daughter of Sir George Crosbie, i. 249 + Marries Jane Elizabeth West, iii. 80 + Appointments in H.M. Navy-- + Midshipman, i. 25 + Mate, i. 79 + Lieutenant, i. 86 + Commander, i. 158 + Commodore, ii. 322 + Admiral, iii. 15 + Ships:-- + _Childers_, i. 164 + _Colossus_, ii. 312 + _Cumberland_, iii. 115 + _Dido_, i. 255 + _Forte_, iii. 39 + _Galatea_, i. 100 + _Magicienne_, i. 119 + _Mæander_, ii. 58 + _Manilla_, iii. 143 + _Pearl_, iii. 135 + _Pelorus_, iii. 144 + _Princess Charlotte_, iii. 130, 172 + _Raleigh_, ii. 324 + _Rattler_, iii. 143 + _Rodney_, ii. 276; iii. 173 + _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208 + _Tweed_, i. 25, 66 + Naval stations commanded by:-- + The Cape, iii. 39 + China, iii. 113 + Crimea, Naval Brigade, ii. 284 + Devonport, iii. 330 + S.E. America, iii. 71 + Straits Settlements, ii. 77 + Honours:-- + C.B., ii. 314 + K.C.B., iii. 15 + G.C.B., iii. 326 + D.C.L. Oxford, iii. 324-326 + + KEPPEL, Lady (Catherine Crosbie), i. 249, 251, 253; ii. 27, 56, 57, + 88, 202, 207, 208, 328; iii. 18, 35 + + KEPPEL, Lady (Jane West), iii. 80, 95, 114, 230 + Anne, i. 47, 67, 247, 249; ii. 23 + Augustus, Admiral Lord, i. 8, 59, 326 + Augustus Frederick, i. 254 + Captain Hon. Colin Richard, iii. 80, 95, 116, 230, 231, 273 + Rev. Edward, i. 67, 203; ii. 50; iii. 19 + Frances, i. 254 + George Thomas, i. 1, 5, 6, 85, 251, 253; ii. 59, 61 + Georgina, i. 66 + Leicester, ii. 61, 69 + Maria Walpole, iii. 98, 230, 275 + Mary, i. 1, 66, 93 + Sophia, i. 4 + Thomas Robert, i. 2, 4, 7, 22, 46, 47, 67, 81, 86; ii. 29, 45, 50, + 81 + William, General, i. 59 + family of, i. 7 + + KEPPEL; _see_ Albemarle + + Kertch, ii. 267, 270-272 + + Khersonese, ii. 258, 263 + + Khoulalonkorn, King, iii. 229 + + Kiel Harbour, ii. 240 + + King, Admiral Sir Durnford, ii. 60, 67 + Admiral George, ii. 276; iii. 113, 114, 121 + Captain Philip, ii. 134, 169 + + Kingsley, Charles, iii. 114 + + Kingston, Jamaica, i. 60 + + Kinmel, i. 93, 162 + + Kissang River, i. 135 + + Knollys, Sir Francis, iii. 323 + + Knox, Lieutenant Thomas Owen, i. 119, 120, 124 + + Kobe, iii. 298 + + Korbé; _see_ Corvé + + Korea, iii. 194 + + Kororareka (Russell), N.Z., ii. 171 + + Korsakof, General, iii. 195, 208 + + Kronstadt, ii. 230 + + Kuching; _see_ Sarawak + + Kung, the Prince of, iii. 226 + + + Labuan, ii. 30, 63, 76, 82, 87, 90, 125, 127; iii. 126, 230 + + Lagos, i. 238, 241, 242 + + Lahon, Cape, i. 210, 211 + + Lake, Admiral W. T., i. 54 + + Lambrick, Captain, ii. 144 + + Landon, Laetitia Elizabeth, i. 221 + + Lansdowne, Lord, ii. 59 + + Lante Bay, i. 170 + + _La Place_, iii. 162, 177 + + Lawrence, Captain, i. 182 + + Leicester, Earl of; _see_ Coke, Thomas William + Countess of; _see_ Hon. Anne Keppel + + Leighton, Vice-Chancellor, iii. 324 + + Leithbridge, Misses, ii. 55 + + Le Marchant, Major, i. 75 + + Lennard, Sir Thomas, ii. 45 + + Leopold, H.R.H. Prince, i. 53; iii. 36 + + Lescanca, Brigadier, i. 189 + + Lesseps, Ferdinand de, iii. 118 + + _Leven_, iii. 234 + + Lexham Hall, i. 7 + + Lichfield, Thomas, Lord, i. 7, 162 + + Li Hung Chang, iii. 245 + + Lima, General, i. 41 + + Linga River, ii. 2, 19 + + Lingghi River, i. 135 + + Linn, Mandarin, i. 264 + + Lisbon, i. 103, 184 + + Lissa, i. 22 + + Livingstone, Dr. David, iii. 67 + + Lloyd, Mr., i. 125 + Lieutenant, iii. 235 + + Loch, Captain Granville, i. 260, 261, 262, 263, 270, 272 + + Lockyer, Commander Nicholas, C.B., i. 167; ii. 116 + + _London_, iii. 110 + + Loring, Captain John Wentworth, i. 16, 17 + + Louis Philippe, King, ii. 76 + + Louise, H.R.H. Princess, iii. 38 + + Low, Hugh, ii. 82, 126, 230 + + Lowe, Robert, iii. 325 + + Lukin, Admiral, i. 7, 14 + + Lupar River, ii. 6 + + Lushington, Rt. Hon. Stephen, i. 148 + + Lyall, Sir Charles, ii. 215 + + Lyemoon Pass, iii. 182 + + Lynedoch, Lord, i. 54 + + Lyons, Admiral Sir Edmund, ii. 211, 256, 267 + + + Macao, i. 264, 327; ii. 120; iii. 1, 8, 9, 130, 222 + + M‘Arthur, Captain, ii. 132, 144 + + M‘Clure, Sir Robert, iii. 8 + + Macdonald, Sir James, i. 4; iii. 323 + + MacDonnell, Sir Richard, iii. 129, 231 + + Mackenzie, Consul, i. 61 + + Macota, ii. 20 + + _Madagascar_, i. 165, 170 + + Madeira; _see_ Funchal Roads + + Madras, i. 133, 134, 148, 150, 157, 158 + + Madrid, i. 186 + + Madura, ii. 131 + + _Mæander_, ii. 58, 60, 81, 115, 126, 130, 155, 200, 201 + + Magellan, Straits of, ii. 195-199 + + _Magicienne_, i. 118, 119, 133, 153, 200 + + Magin, Captain, iii. 1 + + Mahé, Port, iii. 63 + + Mahébourg, iii. 63 + + Maitland, Admiral Sir F. L., K.C.B., i. 165, 167 + + _Malabar_, i. 169, 171, 183, 184 + + Malacca, i. 134, 135, 137, 150, 157; ii. 24, 334 + + Malaga, i. 185, 186, 188, 190, 196 + + Malakoff, ii. 274 + + Malanga, ii. 172 + + Maldanado Roads, i. 43 + + Mallewali, ii. 96 + + Malone, Lieutenant, i. 17 + + Malta, i. 75, 168, 184, 200; ii. 249; iii. 117 + + Mambahennan, ii. 100 + + Mamelon, ii. 273 + + Manao, iii. 169 + + Manchester, Duke and Duchess of, i. 57; iii. 322, 323 + + Manila, i. 327; ii. 124; iii. 230 + + Maratabu River, ii. 23 + + _Mariner_, ii. 77 + + Marjoribanks, Dr., i. 326 + + Marmora, Sea of, ii. 249 + + Marseilles, i. 222 + + Martin, Admiral, ii. 239 + Captain George, i. 169 + Surgeon William, i. 75 + + Matapan, Cape, i. 180 + + Mataxa, Count, iii. 99 + + Mathieson, Commander, ii. 78 + + Maul, Fox; _see_ Panmure, Lord + + Mauritius, i. 85, 260; iii. 63 + + Maxwell, Sir Benson, iii. 317 + + Maxwell, Rev. Dr., iii. 223 + + Mayatchni Island, iii. 195 + + Maynard family, the, i. 164 + + Mazatlan, ii. 185, 188 + + _Medea_, ii. 116 + + Medhurst, Sir Walter, iii. 221, 239 + + _Medusa_, i. 266, 274 + + Melville Island, ii. 134 + + Menai Suspension Bridge, i. 94 + + Menschikoff, Admiral Prince, ii. 240 + + Mexico, city of, i. 56, 64 + Gulf of, i. 57 + + Meyerbeer, iii. 25 + + Miako, iii. 174, 175, 180 + + Michi, Mr., iii. 238 + + Mikado, the, iii. 190, 290 + + Millett family, the, i. 253 + + Milo, i. 68, 176 + + Mina, Captain-General, i. 188, 196 + Doña, i. 196 + + Ming Tombs, the, iii. 172 + + Minorca, i. 14 + + Minto, Lord, i. 255 + + Minwaji-no-Mia, Prince, iii. 286 + + Mitford, Bertram, iii. 268, 286, 290 + + _Modeste_, i. 243, 277 + + Moluccas Islands, ii. 147 + + Montagu, Oliver, iii. 323 + + Montague, Admiral Sir William, i. 169, 171, 184; ii. 205 + + Montenegro, the Marquis of, i. 195 + + Moore, Admiral Sir Graham, G.C.B., i. 260 + General Sir John, i. 260 + + Moorsom, Captain, ii. 285 + + Moowar, the Rajah of, i. 136, 137, 139-146 + River, i. 135; ii. 24 + + Moriataba River, i. 295 + + Mozambique Harbour, iii. 55 + + Muda Hassim, Rajah, i. 299, 300, 301, 306, 307, 319, 339; ii. 42, 84 + + Mulla, Seriff, i. 312; ii. 6 + + Mundy, Captain, i. 157, 172 + + Murrundum Island, i. 294 + + Musemberg, i. 73 + + + Nagasaki, iii. 144, 145, 170, 191, 192, 220, 300 + + Najassi, iii. 201 + + Nakoda Bahar, ii. 6 + + Nanbu Harbour, iii. 158 + + Nancowry Harbour, i. 134, 285 + + Nanking, i. 270, 271; iii. 239 + + Nankow, iii. 172 + + Nanning, i. 134, 135 + + Napier, Admiral Sir Charles John, K.C.B., i. 101, 102, 107, 117, 167, + 247; ii. 53, 57, 226, 228 + William, i. 288; ii. 24, 64, 67, 87 + + Napoleon, i. 1, 86, 90, 253 + + Napper, Surgeon James, i. 71 + + Nash, Lieutenant Charles, i. 70 + + Natunas, i. 294, 296, 297 + + Navarino, i. 68 + + Nelson, Rev. Edmund, i. 15 + Lord, i. 13, 15, 24; ii. 267 + + New Guinea, ii. 148 + + Newman, Sir Robert, ii. 276 + + New Spain, i. 64 + + New Zealand, ii. 152, 169 + + Nicholai, iii. 192, 206 + + Nicholas I., Czar, ii. 258 + + Nicholson, Port, ii. 169 + + Nicobar Islands, i. 134, 284 + + Nigata, iii. 167 + + Nightingale, Miss Florence, ii. 251 + + Ning Po, i. 279 + + Noad, Lieutenant Arthur, i. 113, 203, 257 + + Nogueras, General, i. 188 + + Norfolk Island, ii. 165 + + Norman, Colonel, iii. 296 + + Norris, Sir William, i. 285, 289 + + Northumberland, Duke of, i. 49 + + Norton, Mrs., i. 260 + + Nova Scotia, i. 52 + + Novogorod Harbour, iii. 194 + + Nwajima, Prince, iii. 293 + + + _Ocean_, iii. 179, 277 + + O’Donnell, Colonel, i. 192 + + Ohier, Admiral Marie Gustave, iii. 180, 227 + + Oldfield, Lieutenant R. Brice, ii. 59 + + Ommaney, Admiral Sir John, ii. 209 + + Onrust Island, ii. 130 + + Ord, Sir Henry, iii. 316 + + _Orestes_, i. 180, 197, 200 + + Orizaba Mountain, i. 62 + + Osaka, iii. 174, 179, 180, 186, 190, 220, 298 + + Osmond, John, i. 84 + + Otho, King of Greece, i. 179 + + Ou-teng-foi, iii. 235, 236 + + Owen, Admiral Sir E. W., i. 127, 128 + + + Paddi, town, i. 317 + + Paget, Commander Charles, i. 94 + Clarence, ii. 264 + + Pakington, Sir John, iii. 113 + + Pakoo, i. 318 + + Palmas, Cape, i. 211 + + Palmerston, Lord, i. 185; ii. 123, 182, 256; iii. 28, 29, 32, 100 + + Panmure, Lord, i. 162; iii. 15-17 + + Papua, ii. 148 + + Parker, Rev. Dr., i. 281 + Admiral Sir William Hyde, i. 191, 193, 195, 198, 254, 264, 266, + 271, 272, 273, 278, 325; ii. 27, 31 + + Parkes, Sir Henry, i. 264, 278; iii. 148, 150, 168, 169, 174, 179, + 181, 187, 188, 273, 297, 328 + + Paros, i. 179 + + Parseval Deschênes; _see_ Deschênes + + Partridge, family, i. 5; ii. 49 + + Partridge, C., ii. 61 + + Paterson, Mr., i. 66, 67 + + Patingi, Ali, ii. 7 + + Patterson, Admiral, i. 52 + Charles, i. 52 + + Patusen, ii. 2, 3, 5 + + Pechell, Captain, ii. 299 + + Peck, Henry and George, i. 73 + + Pedro, Don, i. 40 + + Peel, Sir Lawrence, i. 335 + + Peiho River, iii. 171 + + Peking, i. 81; iii. 144, 171, 259 + + Pelham, Dudley, i. 166 + + _Pelican_, i. 226, 231, 242, 277 + + Pell, Sir Watkin, ii. 43 + + Pelorus, ii. 144 + + Penang, i. 146, 149, 282, 333, 337; ii. 334; iii. 14, 120, 229, 318 + + _Penelope_, iii. 283 + + Penguin Island, i. 203, 208 + + Percy, Admiral Hon. Josceline, ii. 199 + + Percy, Captain Joseph, i. 169, 176 + + Perim, iii. 118, 119 + + Pernambuco, i. 41, 42 + + Perote, i. 64 + + Perry, Dare and Co., Messrs., i. 135 + + _Perseus_, iii. 234 + + Petropaulovski, i. 178; iii. 208 + + Pettigrew, Dr., i. 100 + + Pfingsten, Major, iii. 195 + + _Phlegethon_, i. 278; ii. 1, 3, 6, 77, 84, 234 + + _Piraeus_, the, i. 178 + + Plampin, Admiral, i. 48 + + Plumridge, Admiral J. H., i. 119, 121, 135; ii. 76, 231; iii. 130 + + _Plymouth_, ii. 121 + + Point de Galle, iii. 14, 119, 318 + + Po-leng, iii. 235 + + Polkinghorne, Commander James, i. 79 + + Pomony, iii. 56 + + Pontranini, ii. 20 + + Poore, Sir E., ii. 41 + + Popham, Commander Brunswick, i. 226, 231, 232, 242, 243 + + Popoe, Little, i. 235, 236 + + Porchester Castle, i. 52 + + Porirua, Cape, ii. 171 + + Port-au-Prince, i. 61 + + Portendick, i. 202 + + Porter, Captain, i. 98 + + Port Jackson, ii. 152, 153 + + _Portland_, i. 178, 180 + + Port Louis, i. 77, 79, 85 + + Port Mahon, i. 194 + + Port Nicholson, ii. 171 + + Porto Praya, i. 69, 204 + + Port Royal, Jamaica, i. 57, 60, 62, 112, 113 + + Posietta Bay, iii. 194 + + Potoo, i. 278 + + Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 264, 271, 272, 273, 278, 322 + Major, i. 327 + + Price, Captain David, i. 178 + + Prince Edward’s Island, ii. 73 + + _Princess Charlotte_, i. 52; iii. 129, 130, 220 + + Prince’s Island, i. 224, 225, 229, 237, 244 + + Princess Royal, the, i. 253; iii. 114, 121 + + Province Wellesley, i. 283 + + Pulo Sabu, i. 288 + + + Queensberry, Marquis of, iii. 40 + + Quidenham, i. 1, 8, 9, 93; ii. 56, 65 + + Quin, Captain Michael, ii. 23 + + Quitta, i. 235, 240 + + + Raffles, Sir Stamford, i. 285; ii. 76 + + Raffles Bay, ii. 134 + + Raglan, Lord, ii. 256, 264, 275 + + _Raleigh_, ii. 324, 336; iii. 2, 8 + + Ramsay, Captain, ii. 235 + + _Ranee_, ii. 86 + + Ranelagh, Lord, i. 196 + + _Rattler_, iii. 190, 227 + + _Rattlesnake_, ii. 153 + + Read, Lieutenant Charles B., ii. 58, 72 + W. H., i. 289; iii. 317 + Lieutenant (U.S.N.), iii. 177 + + Redan, the, ii. 274, 299-304 + + _Revenge_, i. 200 + + Reynolds, Admiral Barrington, ii. 199 + + Rice, Edward, i. 169, 248, 260, 264, 274, 277 + family, the, i. 248 + + Rich, Henry, i. 96 + + Richmond, Duke of, i. 72, 253 + Duchess of, i. 72 + + Rigby, Colonel, iii. 62, 63 + + _Rinaldo_, iii. 187, 221, 222, 234 + + Rio de Janeiro, i. 36, 42, 43, 123; ii. 72, 198; iii. 42, 75 + + Rio de la Plata, i. 43 + + Risk, W. B., iii. 145 + + Rivers, Lieutenant, ii. 47 + + Roberts, Captain Sir Samuel, i. 168, 180 + + Robinson, Commander, iii. 221 + Sir Hercules, iii. 319 + + Roches, M., iii. 174, 180, 188 + + _Rodney_, i. 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 200; ii. 276, 304; iii. 173, + 177, 180, 222, 247, 276, 323, 324 + + Rodyk, Jack, iii. 318 + + Roe, Sir Frederick and Lady, ii. 45 + + Rokeby, General Lord, ii. 246, 255 + + Romney family, the, i. 257 + + Rose, Sir Hugh, iii. 14 + + Rosebery, Lord, i. 7 + + Rouen, Baron de Forth, ii. 117 + + Rougemont, Lieutenant, iii. 187 + + Rous, Admiral Hon. Henry, i. 87, 90; iii. 20 + + Rowley, Sir Charles, ii. 27 + Admiral Sir Josias, i. 168, 180, 182, 183, 185, 201, 247; ii. 39 + Josias (junior), i. 261 + Admiral Samuel, ii. 32 + + Roy, Captain, iii. 186 + + Rubielo, i. 188 + + Ryder, Captain A. P., ii. 230 + + + Sacrificios, i. 114 + + Sadong River, i. 311; ii. 85 + + Saghalien Island, iii. 194, 198 + + Sahib, Seriff, ii. 2, 5, 20 + + Saigon, iii. 227 + + St. Angelo, Cape, i. 178 + + St. Barbara River, i. 227 + + San Domingo, i. 16, 61, 163 + + St. Helena, i. 90 + + St. Jago de Cuba, i. 33, 61, 69, 204, 261 + + _St. Jean d’Acre_, ii. 208, 233, 243 + + St. John, Sir Spenser, ii. 69 + + St. Juan d’Ulloa, i. 62 + + St. Paul’s, Cape, i. 235, 238 + Island, i. 123 + Roads, i. 85 + + San Salvador, i. 38, 39, 40; iii. 77, 78 + + St. Thomas Island, i. 229; iii. 73 + + St. Vincent, i. 97, 107 + + Sakai, iii. 186, 187 + + Salamanca, i. 82 + + Salamis, Bay of, i. 179 + + _Salamis_, iii. 115, 120, 122, 145, 173, 180, 192, 198, 234, 237 + + Salisbury, Lord, i. 177; iii. 324 + + Saltoun, General Lord, i. 252, 264, 327, 332 + + _Samarang_, ii. 18 + + Sambas River, i. 292 + + Sandilands, Commander A. A., i. 129 + + Sandringham, iii. 92, 93, 260 + + Sandwich Islands, i. 43; ii. 151 + + Santobong, ii. 112 + + _Saracen_, i. 203, 223, 228, 231, 232, 239, 240 + + Sarawak, i. 294, 296, 304, 319, 339; ii. 21, 83, 112; iii. 11, 124, + 229 + + Sarebas, the, ii. 127 + River, i. 311 + + _Satellite_, iii. 122 + + Satsuma, Prince, iii. 174, 175, 178, 180 + + Saumarez, Sir James, i. 69 + Captain, i. 326 + + Saxe-Weimar, Duke Bernard of, ii. 131 + Prince Edward of, ii. 253 + + Schomberg, Commodore, i. 85, 87 + + Scott, Captain Lord Charles, iii. 170, 222 + Captain Frank, i. 103, 190; ii. 7 + + _Scout_, i. 167, 170, 225, 231, 232, 240, 242 + + Sebastopol; _see_ Sevastopol + + Seboo, ii. 2 + + Sekarran, country, ii. 2 + River, i. 312; ii. 6 + + Sekarrans, the, ii. 1, 127 + + Senegal, i. 238 + + _Serapis_, iii. 332 + + Seriff Jaffer, ii. 2 + + Seton, Sir Henry, i. 335 + + Sevastopol, ii. 240, 254, 256, 264 + + Seymour family, the, i. 253 + Admiral Sir George, i. 163, 198, 258; ii. 327; iii. 321 + Admiral G. Henry, i. 198, 200, 275, 277, 278, 322, 333; ii. 235; + iii. 283, 321 + Admiral Lord Hugh, i. 16, 17 + Admiral Sir Michael, i. 55; ii. 209, 238, 337; iii. 1, 9 + Michael (junior), iii. 3 + Lord William, ii. 235 + + Shakotan Bay, iii. 227 + + Shanghai, i. 266, 277; iii. 142, 172, 180, 220, 237 + + Shaw, Whitehead and Co., i. 288 + + Shepherd, Captain, ii. 182 + Quartermaster John, ii. 274, 282 + + Sheridan, Charles, i. 260 + Francis, i. 260, 261, 262 + + Sheriff, Admiral, ii. 47, 56, 60 + + Shrewsbury, Lord, i. 187 + + Shunski, Ito, iii. 183 + + Siefukigi Temple, iii. 183 + + Sierra Leone, i. 202, 203, 233; iii. 70 + + Simmons, Mr., purser, ii. 80 + + Simoneseki Straits, iii. 146, 265 + + Simon’s Bay, i. 71, 74, 75, 77, 83, 86, 261; iii. 45, 67, 74 + + Simpson, Arthur Bridgman, i. 70, 71 + General, i. 81; ii. 279 + Dr., i. 271, 319, 322, 323 + + Sinclair, Major, i. 291 + + Singapore, i. 147, 157, 263, 281, 285, 288, 322, 333, 338; ii. 23, + 24, 75, 77, 111, 128, 129; iii. 9, 13, 115, 120, 121, 122, 230 + + _Sir Charles Forbes_, iii. 1 + + Skipsey, Commodore, i. 76 + + Skipwith family, the, i. 253; ii. 48 + Lieutenant Grey, i. 165, 191, 193, 252, 264, 272, 273, 278, 279, + 291; ii. 65 + + Smith, Lieutenant Christopher, i. 63, 71 + + Smyrna, i. 168, 175, 176 + + Sober Island, i. 127 + + Somerset, the Duke of, iii. 79, 265 + Lord Charles Fitzroy, i. 72 + + Soult, Marshal, i. 247 + + Spalding, John, i. 98 + + _Spartan_, ii. 41 + + Speke, Captain John Hanning, iii. 41, 46, 57, 91 + + Spencer, Earl, i. 102, 103, 253 + + _Sphynx_, ii. 52 + + Spurrier, Mr., iii. 4, 20 + + Stanhope, Captain, iii. 179, 181, 186, 187 + Elizabeth, i. 8 + Spencer, i. 8 + + Stanley, Captain Owen, i. 291; ii. 134, 142, 153, 156 + + _Stanley_, iii. 222 + + Staveley, Captain, ii. 117-123 + General, ii. 117 + + Stephenson, Augustus, ii. 240 + Commander Henry Frederick, i. 66, 93, 96, 97, 119, 164; ii. 219; + iii. 15-17, 19, 27, 107, 115, 190, 205 + Henry (junior), ii. 219, 233 + Lady Mary; _see_ Keppel + + Steward, Mr., ii. 7 + + Stewart, Mrs. Keith; _see_ Fitzroy, Mary + + Stoddard, Consul, ii. 70 + + Stopford, Admiral Sir Robert, i. 201; ii. 46, 55 + + Straits Settlements, the, iii. 121, 316 + + Strongiolo Bay, i. 179 + + Suckling, i. 20, 24 + + Suez, iii. 18, 118 + + Suffield, Lord and Lady, i. 162 + + Suffolk, Earl of, i. 97 + + Sullivan, Sir Charles, Bart., i. 59 + + Sulu, the Sultan of, ii. 104 + + Sumatra, i. 149 + + Summers, Mr., ii. 118-123 + + Sunda, Straits of, i. 147, 263; ii. 75 + + Surtees family, i. 5 + + Sussex, H.R.H. Augustus, Duke of, i. 9, 11, 66, 93, 97, 160, 161, + 246, 247, 249, 322 + + Suttie, Captain Francis, iii. 115 + + Swan, Commander John, iii. 190 + + Swansen, Mr., i. 214, 215, 216, 219-221 + + Swatow, iii. 136, 233, 235 + + Swinhoe, Consul, iii. 237 + + _Sybille_, iii. 8 + + Sydney, ii. 152, 153, 154, 164 + + Symonds, Sir William, i. 169; ii. 41, 46 + + Syra, i. 180 + + + Tagus, River, ii. 213 + + Tahiti, ii. 177 + + Tai-wan-foo, iii. 224 + + Taki Zingaburo, iii. 183, 184 + + Taku Forts, iii. 171, 264, 303, 310 + + _Talavera_, i. 169, 171 + + Talbot, Captain Charles, i. 123 + + Talleyrand, Prince, i. 162, 247 + + Tambilan Islands, i. 292, 338 + + Tampico, i. 58, 64, 65, 113 + + Tangiers, i. 168 + + Tang-Tau, iii. 234, 235 + + Tanjong Datu, i. 294; ii. 83; iii. 123 + + Tanjong Po, i. 295; ii. 83 + + Tarragona, i. 189, 196 + + Tartary, Gulf of, iii. 192 + + Tasmania, ii. 157 + + Taylor, pilot, i. 257 + + Tchung-How, iii. 263 + + Templer, John, ii. 43, 62 + J. L. B., ii. 43 + + Termination Island, iii. 195 + + Thackeray, William Makepeace, iii. 82 + + Thistlethwaite, Mr., i. 251 + + Thompson, Deas, ii. 157 + + Thompson, Rev. Josias, ii. 328; iii. 9 + + Thours, Captain Du Petit, iii. 187, 227, 271 + + _Thunderer_, i. 121, 169, 170, 180 + + _Tien Chi_, iii. 222 + + Tientsin, iii. 303 + + Tillenadin, Conanyaga Modr, i. 128 + + Tomari, iii. 163 + + Tombeaux Bay, iii. 65 + + Tonga Tabu, ii. 172 + + Toolyan Island, ii. 106 + + Torres, Captain de, i. 36 + + Torres Straits, ii. 142 + + Tortoza, i. 188 + + Tosa, Prince, iii. 170 + + Tottenham, Lieutenant, i. 258, 285; ii. 81 + + Townshend, Captain Lord James, i. 123 + + Tracey, Commander, iii. 177 + + Trade Town, i. 203, 206 + + Trafalgar, i. 7, 12 + + _Tribune_, i. 169, 175, 183, 189; iii. 8 + + Trincomalee, i. 125, 128, 147, 157 + + Tripoli, i. 171, 178 + + Tristan d’Achuna, i. 123 + + Trollope, Commander, iii. 222 + + Trowbridge, Captain Sir Thomas, i. 257, 272; ii. 116, 117, 120 + + Troy, i. 178 + + Tseng Kuo-fau, iii. 222 + + Tumongong of Singapore, the, ii. 81, 82 + + Turnour, Captain Edward W., i. 333; ii. 3-7, 336; iii. 1, 4, 39, 45 + + Twanai, iii. 163 + + _Tweed_, i. 19, 25, 46, 65, 66, 67, 85 + + Twofold Bay, ii. 157 + + _Tyne_, i. 169, 176, 187, 189, 200 + + + _Undaunted_, i. 67, 84 + + Undop, ii. 5, 6, 19 + + + Valencia, i. 187, 191, 195 + + Valparaiso, ii. 195 + + _Venus_, iii. 186 + + Vera Cruz, i. 57, 58, 62, 65 + + Vernon, Lord, i. 184 + + _Vernon_, i. 169, 180 + + Victor of Hohenlohe, Prince, ii. 235; iii. 1, 2, 9, 25 + + Victoria, Queen, i. 247, 250, 251; ii. 218, 313, 324; iii. 19, 41, + 116, 322, 329 + Princess; _see_ Princess Royal + + _Victory_, i. 53 + + Villa Nueva, i. 200 + + Vizeu, Francisco Nunes Sweezer, i. 2, 103 + + _Vladimir_, ii. 302 + + Vladivostock, iii. 198, 218 + + Vlangali, A., iii. 192, 194 + + _Volage_, i. 169, 180 + + Von Brockhausen, Baron, i. 191 + + Vourla, i. 168, 170, 171, 173 + + + Wade, Sir Thomas, i. 81 + Colonel, i. 81 + Lieutenant C. F., ii. 3, 6, 14 + + Waitemata Harbour, ii. 171 + + Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, i. 96, 257; iii. 81, 92, 93, 105, 113, + 115, 322, 328, 329, 332, 333 + H.R.H. the Princess of, iii. 81, 93, 105, 322, 333 + + Walker, Captain Sir Baldwin, i. 201; ii. 208; iii. 74 + + Walpole-Keppel, family of, i. 7 + + _Wanderer_, i. 275, 333 + + Waring, Mr., i. 187 + + Warren, Admiral, i. 121; iii. 75 + + Warrington, Colonel, i. 172 + + Waterford, Lord, i. 246 + + Waterloo, Battle of, i. 1, 72, 86 + + Waterpark, Eliza, Lady, i. 8 + + _Waterwitch_, i. 223, 227, 228 + + Watson, Captain, i. 274, 277, 278 + + Wellesley, Captain George, iii. 14 + + _Wellesley_, ii. 68 + + Wellington, Duke of, i. 82, 86, 247, 256; ii. 206 + + Wellington, N.Z., ii. 171 + + Wemyss and March, Earl of, i. 8 + Frederica, Countess of, i. 8 + + West, Green, i. 71 + Jane; _see_ Keppel, Lady + Rev. Richard, iii. 80 + + Whampoa, i. 323; ii. 80, 116; iii. 14, 232, 317 + + Whichcote, Sir Thomas, iii. 27 + + White, Admiral Sir John, ii. 29 + + Whitehead, Mr., i. 322 + + Whitshed, Admiral Sir James Hawkins, i. 27 + + Whydah, i. 237, 239 + + Whytock, Colonel, ii. 60 + + Wildman, Colonel, i. 11 + + William IV., King, i. 102, 120, 121, 160, 161, 163, 200 + + Williams, Sir John, i. 94 + Admiral Sir Thomas, G.C.B., i. 94, 165 + + Williamson, Mr., i. 302; ii. 7 + + Willoughby, James, iii. 117 + + Wilson, Lieutenant A. K., iii. 178 + family, the, i. 51 + + Windham, General Charles, ii. 260, 300, 301 + Mr., ii. 101, 105 + + Windsor, iii. 115, 116 + + Wise, Henry, ii. 43, 62, 63 + Captain W., i. 169 + + Wodehouse, George, i. 103 + + _Wolverine_, i. 199, 200, 281; ii. 24 + + Wood, Sir Charles, iii. 9 + Rev. James, i. 2, 4 + + Woosung, i. 266-269, 275; iii. 180, 220 + + Würtemburg, the Prince of, i. 115 + + Wynberg, i. 71 + + + Xalapa, i. 57, 63, 64 + + Xavier, St. Francis, i. 150 + + Xeres, i. 184 + + + Yang-tse-kiang River, i. 268, 269; iii. 237 + + Yarborough, Lord, i. 166 + + Yates, Mr., i. 66 + + Yedo, iii. 148, 179, 180, 265 + + Yeh, Admiral, iii. 6 + + Yeng Cheow, iii. 223 + + Yesso, iii. 164 + + Yo-chow, iii. 250 + + Yokohama, iii. 148, 150, 151, 162, 174, 177, 179, 180, 191, 192, 220, + 295 + + Yokosha, iii. 191 + + York, Cape, ii. 142 + + Young, Captain, ii. 79 + + Yule, Lieutenant, ii. 165 + + + Zante, i. 180, 182 + + Zanzibar, iii. 57 + the Sultan of, iii. 62 + + _Zebra_, iii. 222 + + +END OF VOL. II + + +_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_ + + + + +Transcriber’s Notes + + + • Italic text denoted by _underscores_. + • Small capitals converted to ALL CAPS. + • Images relocated close to related content. + • Sidenotes relocated close to related content. + • The original has a sidenote at the start of every page to indicate + the current year and sometimes a reminder of the current location. + Where the year and location are clear from the text and previous + sidenotes, these page-top notes have been omitted. + • Footnotes have been renumbered consecutively and relocated close + to related content. + • Punctuation and other obvious typographic inaccuracies were + silently corrected. + • Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved. + • Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved. + • The index that appears in volume III has been replicated into + volumes I and II. + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76809 *** |