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+      A description of Killarney | Project Gutenberg
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76556 ***</div>
+
+<p class="center larger"><span class="smaller">A</span><br>
+DESCRIPTION<br>
+<span class="smaller">OF</span><br>
+KILLARNEY.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p class="titlepage larger"><span class="smaller">A</span><br>
+DESCRIPTION<br>
+<span class="smaller">OF</span><br>
+KILLARNEY.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container titlepage">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent10">——τὴν δὲ χρυσάμπυκες Ὧραι</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">Δέξαντ’ ἀσπασίως, περὶ δ’ ἄμβροτα εἵματα ἔσσαν,</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">Πολλὰ δ’ ὄρη σκίοεντα, καὶ αὐλῶνας κελαδείνους,</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">Καὶ πεδί’ ἀνθεμόεντα.</div>
+    </div>
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse right">ὉΜΗΡΟΥ ὙΜΝΟΙ.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<figure class="figcenter titlepage illowp100" id="map" style="max-width: 56.25em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/map.jpg" alt="">
+</figure>
+
+<p class="titlepage">LONDON:<br>
+<span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">Printed for J. DODSLEY, in Pall-Mall.</span><br>
+M. DCC. LXXVI.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span></p>
+
+<h1>A<br>
+DESCRIPTION<br>
+OF<br>
+KILLARNEY.</h1>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="SECTION_I">SECTION I.</h2>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>To convey to the fancy a lively representation of
+substantial visible forms, is deemed rather the
+province of that artist who speaks to the eye, than of
+the mere verbal describer. Yet so limited are the
+powers of the pencil, that by it, the same object can
+only be represented, in one moment of its existence,
+and under a single point of view; whereas description
+ranges in a wider field, commands the several changes
+which time, in its silent lapse, draws along with it;
+exhibits things in all the different lights, and positions,
+in which they can be viewed; discovers new beauties
+in effects from unravelling their causes; traces under
+the mouldering ruin, stately temples, domes, and palaces,
+the monuments of a race of mortals long forgotten;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>takes in an extent of scenery, which the unassisted
+eye loses, and the pencil faintly pourtrays;
+and throws a mysterious veil over every object, by allusions
+and details drawn from the stores of history
+and fable:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0">There Arthur lies, and there the Runic bard;</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">Here fell the hero; these sad hollow anters,</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">That grove, did hear his moan.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Revolving these advantages of the descriptive
+method, over the mere plastic, I wished to prove its
+excellence by an example; and meeting with a subject
+altogether engaging, I made the following attempt
+to exhibit it in its true colours. I inscribe it to the
+Academy of Royal Artists, as a poor atonement for
+my presumptuous encroachment upon the province
+of picture.</p>
+
+<p>I visited Killarney in the most favourable seasons
+for viewing it, when the trees resigning their foliage,
+were already marked with all the different colourings
+of decay: and when spring, repairing the winter’s ravages,
+had again cloathed them with renewed verdure:
+but I preferred the autumnal prospect.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span></p>
+
+<p>The lake is divided into two great branches, or
+more properly speaking, there are two distinct lakes,
+<a href="#map">A</a>, <a href="#map">B</a>, connected by a winding river.</p>
+
+<p>The northern lake, called also Lough Lane, from its
+receiving a torrent of that name, is by many degrees
+the larger. It is divided into two branches, the one
+distinguished by the name of the Great Lake, and the
+other called Turk Lake, <a href="#map">C</a>, from a mountain that
+overhangs it.</p>
+
+<p>The Great Lake lies East and West, and from Mr.
+Herbert’s park, to the mouth of the Lune, measures
+about seven English miles. Its breadth, from the
+neighbourhood of Reen Point, to the opposite side, is
+said to be nearly four.</p>
+
+<p>Turk Lake is about two miles and a half in length,
+and three quarters of a mile in breadth; it stretches
+from East to West, with an inclination to the North
+and South.</p>
+
+<p>The southern shores of both these lakes are formed
+by high mountains; those of the Great Lake covered
+with wood, those of the other without wood. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>land which bounds them to the North, the East, and
+the West, is either a flat, or only raised from the
+water by gentle swellings. ’Tis generally diversified
+by plantations.</p>
+
+<p>I shall first trace out the several bays, banks, and
+islands, which occur in the lakes, proportioning my
+detail to the importance of the objects; that passing
+from particulars to generals, we may, on some good
+grounds, establish a comprehensive character of the
+whole; and, with the better relish and judgment, proceed
+to consider the more remarkable points of view.</p>
+
+<p>The angular mountain Glynnau, or Glauná, <a href="#map">D</a>,
+stands on the South side of the lake, and has two sides
+washed by it; for round this mountain the lake takes
+a turn, and so runs to a narrow point, where it receives
+the water from the upper or southern lake.
+This is a very beautiful mountain, covered for a great
+part of the ascent with forest trees, such as oak, ash,
+pine, alder, and birch, intermixed with hazel, whitethorn,
+yew, holley, and arbutus, all perfectly wild.
+The forest trees are not very stately, but the yews,
+holleys, and strawberry-trees, are in great perfection;
+and blending their different greens, form a fine mixture.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span>The sides of the mountain, though not uniform,
+rise with an easy acclivity from the water, and
+are here and there broken by gullies, and streamlets,
+which is pleasing. The shores are all along indented;
+and from the angle particularly, there runs a point
+richly wooded, which forms two bays. The principal
+inhabitants of this mountain are the red deer, which,
+among the sequestered thickets, enjoy an undisturbed
+repose; except on some gala day, when O’Donahue
+makes a sacrifice to the curiosity of the visitors of the
+lake, or his own passion for the chace, which happens
+rarely. The music of the dogs and horns, and the
+shouts of the hunters, posted in great numbers along
+the ridge of the mountain, are re-echoed from the
+several parts of it; and produce an effect singularly
+pleasing. It is from hence the stag generally precipitates
+himself into the lake, when hard pressed by his
+pursuers; who studiously reduce him to this necessity,
+by hemming him in on all sides; and his spirited efforts
+to prolong existence in an element so unfriendly to
+him, afford the highest entertainment. This mountain
+is the property of Lord Kenmare.</p>
+
+<p>Toomish, or Tomé, <a href="#map">E</a>, stands to the westward of
+Glynnau, from which it is separated by a torrent,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>called, in the expressive phrase of the natives, Screech
+Stream. It completes the Southern boundary of the
+lake, and in its situation, and appearance, much resembles
+Glynnau. The finest cascade in the neighbourhood
+of Killarney, falls from this mountain;
+which, retaining the name of its ancient possessor, is
+called O’Sullivan’s Cascade. While the rains prevail it
+is amply supplied with water, and exhibits a very
+beautiful picture. It falls from three great stages, of
+nearly equal heights, disposed in such a manner, that
+the course of the stream which supplies it, is hid from
+the spectator. The water is so agitated in its course
+down the mountain, that from the instant it breaks
+upon the eye, it is one entire sheet of foam; and
+dashing from stage to stage, enlivens every thing around
+it, by the reflection of the scattered rays which fall
+upon it; serving at once to illuminate, and contrast,
+the shady green trees and shrubs which overhang it.
+The only spot from which it can be seen to advantage,
+is from a rock in the channel below; from thence the
+stages seem to diminish from bottom to top, from
+twenty four or five feet, to twenty, and from twenty
+to fifteen or sixteen. The whole scene abounds with
+the most picturesque beauties, but the minuteness of
+the objects, and that air of regularity which is diffused
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>over the whole, strikes it out of the class of grandeur
+and sublimity. At some distance from the cascade,
+there are two or three rude cottages, inhabited by a
+set of hardy mountaineers, who probably subsist by
+the chace. They generally come down to traffick
+with strangers, bringing with them nuts, and wild
+berries; and sometimes cuttings of yew, thorn, and
+oak, for walking sticks. The only bounties of Heaven
+they seem to enjoy, are health, and a fine prospect;
+contentment, if they possess it, is with them
+an heroic virtue. This mountain belongs to Mr.
+Herbert of Mucrus.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the West, the lake washes a very rich
+and improveable country. The part of it which extends
+from Tomé, to Dunlow castle, is called O’Sullivan’s
+Country, <a href="#map">F</a>; but is now the property of Mr.
+Herbert. It is no where marked with very striking
+features; it rises in a swelling slope from the lake,
+and is here and there diversified by trees, particularly
+on the banks of the Lune. This river is very considerable
+at its source, being the only outlet from the
+lake, which receives from the surrounding mountains
+several plentiful streams. Winding for a considerable
+way through a rich valley, it separates O’Sullivan’s
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span>country from the estate of Macarthy-more; and taking
+a westerly course, discharges itself into the ocean at
+the distance of seven or eight miles. It is called by
+the natives the Leaune.</p>
+
+<p>The estate of Macarthy-more, <a href="#map">G</a>, compleats the
+western boundary of the lake. The house is well
+situated, upon a rising ground near the river; but the
+improvements are much neglected. In alighting to
+take a view of the ancient family seat at Pallice, I
+gave the bridle of my horse to a poor boy, who seemed
+to look for it with a degree of eagerness. From his
+manner of answering some questions I asked him, I
+was led to enquire into his situation; and was not a
+little surprized to find, that though sunk in the most
+abject poverty, he was, nevertheless, a good classical
+scholar. He was well acquainted with the best Latin
+poets, had read over most of the historians, and was
+then busy with the orations of Cicero. I could not
+help pitying, at the same time that I admired him,
+and lamenting the hard situation which rendered his
+knowledge useless; his taste and refinements the sources
+of continual disgusts and mortifications; and even
+his habits of study pernicious, as they diverted him
+from those active employments, which alone could
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>keep him above want and wretchedness. I found,
+upon further enquiry, that this classical spirit is very
+general among the lower sort of people in Kerry: a
+circumstance, which gives an air of probability to the
+romantic accounts of a late Memoir-writer&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, concerning
+the learning and taste of certain northern shepherds.</p>
+
+<p>The lands, which lie along the northern shores, <a href="#map">H</a>,
+of the lake, have a very uniform character; they are
+such as one sees every where, hills and dales tolerably
+wooded, and pretty well enclosed; but capable, from
+their soil, and above all from their situation, of being
+made very enviable scenes. A neat farm house, built
+upon a charming neck of land, called by way of eminence
+The Point, and possessed by Mr. Mahony, is
+better adapted to the spot, and raises more pleasing
+ideas, than if it wore a more gaudy assuming air.
+The bay, which lies between this neck and Reen Point,
+is one of the largest, and most delightful in the lake;
+and owes so great a share of its beauty to the islands,
+that I can scarce forbear mentioning them. Reen
+Point lies nearly in the middle between the extremities
+of the lake; and, about an English mile behind it,
+stands the village of Killarney, and Lord Kenmare’s
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>house. About half a mile to the East of it, the Flesk,
+a very fine stream, which springs from Glanflesk, a
+mountain some miles distant, falls into the lake. On
+its eastern bank, close upon the shore, is Cahiranane,
+the seat of Mr. Arthur Herbert, which has nothing
+remarkable to boast of. This side of the lake ends in
+a sandy bay, one of the finest I remember to have seen
+in it. Lord Kenmare is the principal proprietor.</p>
+
+<p>We now come to the eastern boundary of the Great
+Lake, which is every where rich in wild beauties.
+The northern part of it is called Mucrus, <a href="#map">I</a>; as it
+stretches southerly, it gets the name of Camillan, <a href="#map">K</a>;
+and round the extremity of Camillan is the passage
+to Turk Lake. It is impossible to conceive any thing
+more charming than the shady bays, creeks, and recesses,
+which the lake here forms. The variety of
+their shapes, the smoothness of the water, the reflection
+of the trees with which the banks are fringed,
+and the fertility of the very rocks which form the
+points and angles, produce a mixed sensation of surprize
+and pleasure, which it is difficult to describe.
+There is a stillness and tranquillity in the air of these
+retreats, that is uncommonly engaging, and sets the
+imagination to work to conjure up forms and build
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>castles in every one of them; the accessary ideas give
+new life to the scene, and the mind returns with additional
+ardour to contemplate it. In some places you
+are presented with an abrupt shore, and rocks of unchisselled
+marble hollowed into caverns; in others, the
+level beach, covered over with smooth green carpeting,
+seems to court your approach by a display of internal
+scenery. Here you meet with a promontory,
+rising from the lake with the majesty of a colossus;
+there stands another, the Parnassus of Silvanus, adorned
+with every chosen shrub in which the God delights:
+and woe to the dull mortal, that hears him not, as he
+passes, rustle among the thickets; for lo! even now
+he emerges, and dispensing fragrance as he ascends,
+looks down with benign complacency upon those
+happy regions, for which he has rifled the gardens
+of Flora, to rival her once favourite Tempè.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0">——<i>Deus, ecce Deus!</i>——</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mucrus abbey is situated upon an eminence, rising
+over the lake, near the northern extremity of this
+range. It is in tolerable preservation, and still serves
+as a burying-place to the inhabitants of the neighbourhood.
+A modern hermit, some years ago, pitched
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>upon it as the place of his retirement. He chose an
+open cell, in one of the upper apartments, for his
+mansion; and formed a defence for himself against
+the inclemencies of the weather, from the shattered
+remains of the tombs and coffins. His vow was not
+rigidly strict; for he sometimes mixed with the world.
+He was communicative enough on some subjects, and,
+as I have heard, tolerably well informed. But at
+length he sullied the lustre of his character, by indulging
+in the sordid unmanly vice of private drinking,
+oftentimes to intoxication; till, finding the veneration
+he was held in daily diminish, he abandoned
+a scene where he could no longer appear with credit.
+He was an Englishman; and, when he left Killarney,
+proposed going to the rock of Lisbon. There is certainly
+no place better adapted to a recluse than this,
+especially if he possesses any degree of enthusiasm, as
+there is none which can compensate the loss of social
+enjoyments by such a variety of contemplative ones.
+The greatest curiosity of the abbey is a yew planted in
+the center of the building. Its trunk is between
+seven and eight feet in circumference, and its boughs
+form a compleat covering to the cloister, which is a
+square of twelve yards. My Cicerone, pointing to a
+wound in the bark of it, told me with a very grave
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>face, that the wretch, who had the hardiness to inflict
+it, paid the full price of his sacrilege; for that a
+numbness instantly seized the guilty arm, spread gradually
+over his whole frame, and in a few minutes
+dispatched him. The abbey is too much shut up by
+trees; it might be so managed, by a delicate hand, as
+to become a fine object of view, without being entirely
+dragged from its retreat, and exposed to open
+day. An objection of the same kind lies against the
+situation of Mr. Herbert’s house, which, in the midst
+of the most desirable objects, enjoys a very limited
+prospect of the lake, and appears to no advantage itself.
+The gardens are not dressed with care; and
+would deserve little notice, were it not for the extraordinary
+ledges of rocks which run through them.
+These have not the least covering of earth to defend
+them, and yet rival the most luxuriant spots in their
+produce. They are cloathed from one end to the
+other with shrubs and trees, which seem to draw their
+juices from the very marble itself, as the crannies and
+pores, from which they issue, are so scantily provided
+with mold, that it is difficult to conceive it sufficient
+for their nourishment. It is wonderful how pliably
+they accommodate themselves to the several windings
+and crevices of the stone, and how artfully their roots
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>are disposed for the reception of every drop of moisture;
+and their great variety, some of them the most
+tender, delicate shrubs our climate admits of, still
+adds to the surprize. The service-tree grows here
+spontaneously; the vine flourishes; the common fruits
+are the produce of every cliff; the arbutus seems indigenous;
+the lilack, rose, lauristinus, and cytisus,
+require no other culture than that of the pruning
+knife; every neglected spot in this wilderness of
+sweets is enamelled with flowers, and fragrant herbs,
+and plants loaded with blossoms, or berries.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Dum vagor aspectu, oculosque per omnia duco,</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Calcabam, nec opinus, opes.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="noindent">I observed, almost universally, in the trees springing
+from these rocks, that the part of the trunk contained
+within the stone was much smaller than the external,
+sometimes by several inches in the diameter;—a proof
+of fertility this, which renders all others superfluous.</p>
+
+<p>From the house at Mucrus to the extreme point of
+Camillan, there runs a winding road of near two
+miles in length, very judiciously calculated to unfold
+the interior beauties of the Peninsula: (for it is a Peninsula,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>and as one side encloses the Great Lake to the
+East, the other forms the northern boundary of Turk
+Lake.) Here there is a vast number of those rocks and
+craggs, vegetating from every pore, differing in shape
+and situation, and thrown without order into irregular
+groupes, which afford new landscapes as you advance,
+and every instant present different combinations and
+figures. They generally lie at a considerable distance
+from each other, and are separated by low marshy
+swamps, which produce nothing but heath, and the
+common aquatic shrubs; by which means they have
+much the appearance of islands. And here I cannot
+help indulging a conjecture, that the islands in the
+lake itself have been, at some distant period, situated
+as these are: and that, by the stoppage or interruption
+of the great outlet from the lake, or an additional
+influx into it, the body of water has been so increased
+as to insulate the higher grounds; and that
+the continuance of the cause has rendered the separation
+permanent. It is certain this conjecture appears
+more probable, if we consider the near resemblance of
+many of the islands to the rocks I have just now described,
+and their proximity to the level shores on the
+north and east sides of the lake, where the water is
+comparatively shallow. It might be further confirmed
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span>by similar instances; and particularly by the instance
+of Lough Neagh, in the province of Ulster; which has
+for many years past gained on the land, as is clearly
+evinced by a late writer. But as I cannot support it
+by testimony or observation, the only sure grounds to
+build upon, I abandon it as a bare probability.</p>
+
+<p>Nearer the point of Camillan the surface is less
+varied by detached heights, and risings, and more
+uniformly wooded. It is of a very stoney nature, and
+almost every where covered with a thick moss,
+which is here ornamental. As the lakes lie on both
+sides, with their islands and mountains, how greatly
+might the charms of this spot be enhanced, by introducing
+them judiciously in different views and situations?
+which, by the simple management of leading a
+path from one side to the other, now skirting the bays,
+and now ascending the heights, might easily be accomplished.
+And how much might the views from the
+lakes be improved, by here and there opening up the
+bays and recesses, and allowing the eye to penetrate
+into the more remote scenes, as if by stolen glances?
+To mutilate nature is inhuman, to aim at excelling her
+is madness: It is the province of art to withdraw the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>veil that conceals her beauties, and discover them in
+all their wildness.</p>
+
+<p>The side of the Peninsula, which forms the northern
+boundary of Turk Lake, so nearly resembles the other,
+that what Ovid says of the sisters of Phaëton is literally
+true of them: they have the same general air and
+complexion, though they differ in particular features.
+The whole Peninsula is the property of Mr. Herbert
+of Mucrus, whose estates in this country are very
+considerable: his ancestors were among the first English
+settlers; and tho’ he generally resides in England,
+his tenantry seem to enjoy more happiness, than ordinarily
+falls to the share of the deserted Irish peasant;
+who, between intrinsic indolence and external exaction,
+penurious in the midst of plenty, wanders upon
+the surface of the most fertile country in the world, a
+melancholy instance of complicated misery.</p>
+
+<p>The eastern shore of Turk Lake, <a href="#map">L</a>, is distinguished
+by no particular beauty I know of: it is formed by
+the bleak side of Mangerton, and separated from Turk,
+the mountain which confines the lake to the South, by
+the Devil’s Stream. This stream has its source near
+the top of Mangerton, which is esteemed the highest
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span>ground in Ireland&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>. Its source is a vast cavity in the
+mountain, fed by the discharge of the clouds which
+are daily bursting over it. The natives stile it the Pit
+of Hell, but it is more commonly called the Devil’s
+Punch-bowl. It sometimes sends down very impetuous
+torrents, which sufficiently mark their course by
+their ravages: to this it probably owes its original
+name.</p>
+
+<p>Turk, <a href="#map">M</a>, though not so lofty as Mangerton, is a
+much nobler object. Its outline is free and graceful,
+rising to a point by easy stages, and sinking towards
+the plain in such a manner as to form an irregular
+cone. The side towards the lake is quite inaccessible,
+and to the eye below has a wild air of grandeur, occasioned,
+as I conceive, by the uniformity of its appearance,
+which presents no gaudy colourings to divert
+the mind from contemplating the single idea of its extent.
+It is entirely without trees, which as it contributes
+to the above effect, and affords a striking contrast
+to the shady banks of Mucrus, is hardly to be regretted.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>The river Lane rises near the summit, and
+is seen throughout its course, which is a very direct
+one: it gives its name to the whole lake, anciently
+called Loch Lein.</p>
+
+<p>Between the Peninsula, and the low land which
+stretches from Turk, lie the islands Brickeen and
+Dinish, which separate the two northern lakes. They
+are divided from the shores by very narrow straits:
+that between Brickeen, and the Peninsula, which is
+the widest, not exceeding twenty yards. Both these
+islands are richly wooded, and abound with luxuriant
+arbutus; they serve as resting places to the deer,
+which descend from Glená, at the dawn of morning,
+to feed in the plains and meadows of Mucrus; and
+here too they often shelter themselves, when roused
+by the hunters, and driven from their more secret
+haunts in the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Dinish extends to the very mouth of the river which
+flows from the upper or southern lake; and, by the
+opposition of its sides, distributes the stream into two
+unequal channels. The river issues from the northern
+side of the lake, and with all, its windings and angles,
+measures four miles. The eastern bank, <a href="#map">N</a>, presents
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>nothing interesting; it is low, craggy, and infertile,
+scarcely producing a shrub or tree. The high grounds,
+at some distance, which extend from Turk to the
+southward, though by no means picturesque, are a
+relief to the prospect. The opposite bank is skirted
+by the shaggy sides of Glená, that runs into the country
+in this direction for a considerable length: its appearance
+here is not so varied, as from the lower lake,
+but is still pleasing; it is terminated to the South by
+the Eagle’s Nest.</p>
+
+<p>This remarkable rock, <a href="#map">O</a>, presents its principal front
+to the North, and the river, making an abrupt turn,
+passes directly under it. It has that bold freedom in
+its general outline which sets at naught description,
+and demands the pencil of Salvator himself to express
+justly. From the ruggedness of its impending cliffs,
+which almost overshadow the river, it would be truly
+aweful, if the trees and shrubs which cover them, did
+not counteract the effect, by diffusing an air of festivity
+over the whole, which strips it of its terrors. The
+parts of it, considered singly, are beautiful; their
+strange combination produces surprise. The effect of
+a musket or peterara discharged against this mountain,
+exceeds every thing I had conceived possible. The report
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>is encreased to a degree almost incredible, and returning
+upon the ear in redoubled peals, now from the
+neighbouring, now from the more distant mountains,
+imperceptibly dying away, and again reviving, till it
+finally expires in hollow, interrupted murmurs, bears
+a nearer resemblance to natural bursts of thunder, than
+any thing artificial. The mountain is inhabited by
+Eagles, which build their nests on the craggs, and inaccessible
+heights, and are continually hovering round
+it: like true birds of Jove, they seem to have chosen
+it for their abode, from the allurements of its pealing
+echoes.</p>
+
+<p>The mountain which runs from the Eagle’s Nest,
+to the upper lake, is two miles in length. It is one
+continued ridge without break, or rising; and from its
+figure, and inclination, is with singular propriety called
+the Great Range, <a href="#map">P</a>. Near the upper end of it is the
+seat of the musical echo. The spot where it resides is
+a hollow bosom in the mountain, covered on all sides
+with trees. The sounds are reverberated from the
+several parts of it, and are softened upon every repetition,
+so as to terminate in the sweetest cadences. A
+single horn produces a concert, and is multiplied into as
+many instruments as there are echoes; these mellowing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>in their tones, from the original notes of the leading
+instrument, to the dying falls of the last repetitions,
+and mingling together in a wild, but harmonious confusion,
+afford the finest specimen of natural music in
+the world. The power of the echoes might easily be
+ascertained by breathing a single note on any instrument,
+or by the voice; and afterwards, it would be
+an easy matter, at any period in a passage of music, to
+determine the number and quality of the sounds,
+which are employed in expressing it.</p>
+
+<p>The southern lake, which is entered by a narrow
+pass called Colman’s Eye, stretches East and West for
+above a league; but does not any where exceed three
+quarters of a mile in breadth. It has a different air
+from the others, being encompassed on all sides by
+high grounds and mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Ghirmeen, <a href="#map">Q</a>, one of the most considerable of these,
+forms a right angle with the Great Range, and bounds
+the lake to the North. It is partially covered with
+trees, and on the whole has rather a pleasing, than a
+bleak appearance. Arbutus Bay is the finest it affords;
+it derives its name, as well as a great share of its beauty,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>from an island contiguous to it. The mountain is the
+property of Mr. Herbert.</p>
+
+<p>M’Gilly Cuddy’s Ricks take their rise from Ghirmeen,
+and encircling a valley, <a href="#map">R</a>, of pretty large compass
+to the West of the lake, form an extensive amphitheatre.
+These mountains are very numerous, and,
+as if Nature meant to exhaust her varieties, are broken
+into the most irregular, whimsical, shapes, imaginable.
+They seem to be quite destitute of planting, and indeed
+their fertility, at the distance most of them lie,
+would contribute little to their beauty. They are
+plentifully stocked with grouse, or, in the language of
+the natives, the hen of the heath, notwithstanding the
+depredations of their joint commoners the eagles. They
+furnish the lake with its principal supplies of water,
+which tumbling down in a multiplicity of channels,
+unites in one stream at bottom, and enriches the valley.
+The valley owes nothing to culture, though to all appearance
+capable of it: a few wretched cottagers derive
+from its borders a penurious subsistance. Its shore
+is distinguished by one of those singular rocks already
+described; to those who see it at a distance, it has the
+appearance of an island; and by a small elevation of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>the water would actually become one. The whole
+circuit is now possessed by Mr. Herbert; it formerly
+belonged to the ancient family of M’Gilly Cuddy,
+whose name it still bears. The mountains are called
+Ricks, in allusion to their shape, which approaches
+nearer to a cone than any other regular figure.</p>
+
+<p>The southern boundary of the lake is formed by a
+range of high mountains. Cahirnee, <a href="#map">S</a>, which joins
+the Ricks, is the largest of them, and belongs to Lord
+Shelburne: it is distinguished by a waterfall, but is no
+otherwise remarkable. Towards the eastern angle this
+range terminates in a sloping bank, which forms one
+side of the Glynn of Derry-Cannihy. This Glynn, <a href="#map">T</a>,
+gradually contracting as it retires from the lake, loses
+itself in another, still more extensive, about a mile
+distant. Its sides are covered with very stately timber,
+particularly oaks; and it affords a delightful repose to
+the eye, fatigued with reiterated mountain prospects.
+The Kavoge rolls a considerable stream through the
+center, which, tumbling down a rocky channel, where
+it forms a variety of lesser falls, makes the woods and
+caverns vocal. The Glynn belongs to Lord Kenmare,
+who is now preparing to disrobe it of its trees, as well
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>as the adjoining mountain Derry-Dimna. Whether
+the Genius of the lakes, or some more persuasive Divinity,
+will have power to stay his uplifted axe, time
+will determine. The determination, with respect to
+his Lordship’s taste, will be final.</p>
+
+<p>May no future traveller have occasion to quote here
+the mournful lines of Virgil!</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Itur in antiquam silvam, stabula alta ferarum.</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Procumbunt piceæ, sonat icta securibus ilex,</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Fraxineæque trabes; cuneis et fissile robur</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Scinditur: advolvunt ingentes montibus ornos.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Crom-a-glaun&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>, which belongs to Lord Kenmare
+also, confines the lake to the East, <a href="#map">U</a>. It extends from
+Derry-Cannihy to within a mile of Turk, and, though
+no where lofty, is one of the largest mountains in the
+neighbourhood. Its sides are covered with a luxuriant
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>copse, which reaches down to the water’s edge: and
+its modest height, compared with the aspiring cliffs
+over-against it, gives it the appearance of a larger hill.
+The foot of this mountain is washed for a considerable
+length by a narrow confined bay, lying parallel to the
+river. This bay has no beauties to boast of; its
+western side is bleak and barren, and it is quite destitute
+of islands.</p>
+
+<p>The Purple Mountain, though not immediately
+touching upon the lakes, is an object of curiosity not
+to be passed over, <a href="#map">W</a>. It rises from behind the Great
+Range, in a conical shape, and is strongly characterised
+by its deep indigo colour. It abounds with a kind of
+heath, found in no other part of the country, which
+produces purple berries; but receives its prevailing
+tinct from another herb, used by the natives in dying.
+This is probably the <i>Lichenoides saxatile foliis pilosis
+purpureis</i>, found by Doctor Smith in an adjoining
+Barony, though overlooked by him here. It affords
+shelter to a bird, so little known in Kerry, that as
+yet it has no popular name. This bird, as it was described
+to me, is somewhat larger than a grouse; its
+breast red, the rest of its plumage a clear shining
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>black, except the wings, and tail, which are interspersed
+with white feathers. Whether this be of the
+same species with the heath cock, so common in Scotland
+under the name of the black game, I know not:
+I am sure I have heard, that the heath cock of the
+Highlands delights in the purple-berried heath, and
+resembles our rara avis in colour.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="SECTION_II">SECTION II.</h2>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>I have now given a general sketch of the confines of
+the lakes, and their most remarkable bays. The
+islands are no less worthy of notice; though, from
+their number, situation, and varieties, so difficult to
+describe, that I despair of conveying any distinct conception
+of them.</p>
+
+<p>The number of islands in the lower lake exceeds
+thirty. They are dispersed, without order, along the
+level shores to the East and North; for to the South
+and West, there is one unbroken sheet of water. A
+few of them lie unconnected, but the greater number
+is distributed into two irregular clusters, or archipels,
+on the opposite sides of Ross, <a href="#map">X</a>, <a href="#map">Y</a>. This island is
+the largest in the lake: it lies to the East of Reen
+Point, about a mile from the village of Killarney.
+A very narrow gut, scarcely navigable for boats,
+separates it from the shore; and over this there is a
+bridge thrown, for the conveniency of the castle. The
+castle stands on the land side on the island, and was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span>formerly a royal residence; being the seat of the Lords
+of the Lake, who assumed the title of Kings. The
+family of O’Donahue was the last that bore this
+title: its present representative enjoys a degree of respect
+from the country-people in right of his ancestors,
+but their power has been long extinct, and their property
+is now passed into other hands. The great
+O’Donahue, the hero of this ancient race, still survives
+in the praises of his countrymen; who set off his virtues
+with all the colourings of enthusiasm. They represent
+him like the Demi-gods of old, a contemner of
+danger, a sworn foe to oppression, a passionate admirer
+of whatever is great and honourable. The
+severity of his warlike virtues was tempered, say they,
+by a generous hospitality, which embraced a Friend in
+every Stranger: The rigour of the Legislator was
+blended and lost in the endearing condescension of the
+Friend; the Prince was the Father of his country. His
+court was the seat of joy and festivity: worth took its
+place at the board by inherent birthright, grey hairs
+received their reverence, distressed innocence had a
+peculiar plea of admission, for humanity was paramount,
+and suspicious policy absolutely unknown.
+He was wise too, and the Gods sped his councils, for
+his subjects were happy. Fruitful seasons crowned
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>the year with plenty, and undisturbed tranquillity led
+the way to enjoyment. ’Twas the reign of Pan in
+Arcadia: nor were the shepherds ungrateful; for every
+valley resounded with his praises: nor was their patron
+unpropitious; for death, that extinguished his earthly
+lamp, seemed to rekindle his love. And still he reigns
+to bless them; and to his unseen protection do they
+hold themselves indebted, for every gift of fortune.
+Often as the hind returns to his cottage, by the favour
+of the moon’s pale light, are his eyes blessed by the
+figure of the good old King amidst a train of his attendants;
+his silver locks floating in the breeze, his
+limbs invested with a robe of regal dignity, and superbly
+mounted, like the twin brothers of Helena,
+upon a milk-white courser. Such a vision is considered
+as the happiest omen of good; it is reported
+with ecstasy, and listened to with transport: there are
+no unbelievers; even to hesitate were heresy: and why
+should we wonder? O’Donahue is the Hercules and
+Quirinus of this retired people, their <i>San Januario</i>,
+their <i>Julium Sidus</i>. The ancient tribute of the kings
+of Munster to this prince, was ten dun horses, ten
+coats of mail, and ten ships&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>: This gives us the idea
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>of a powerful chieftain, possessed of a navy, in these
+days, truly formidable. The castle, which has a non-resident
+governor, now serves as a barrack for infantry.
+From the top of it there is a good view of the island,
+which appears low and swampy, and rather narrow for
+its length. It is every where covered with trees, unless
+where it has been industriously cleared; which is
+the case around the castle, and from thence to the
+opposite shores. The winding Peninsula towards Innisfallen
+is particularly pleasant: The bays and creeks
+are much like those at Mucrus, but the happy situation
+of the surrounding islands gives them many additional
+beauties.</p>
+
+<p>Innisfallen lies at a small distance to the Westward.
+It is not so extensive as Ross, but much more beautiful.
+Its shape is triangular, and its sides, from promontory
+to promontory, are hollowed into bays. The soil is
+exceedingly rich, and the verdure perpetual. The
+cattle which feed upon it testify to its fertility. Its
+surface is naturally molded into a variety of sweeps
+and banks, which are cleared of the underwood, and
+shaded by well-grown trees. Near the north-east
+promontory are the ruins of an abbey, and what
+the boatmen call a banqueting-house. The abbey is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>a very paltry building, and was probably rather an
+occasional retreat to the good Fathers at Mucrus, than
+the seat of a distinct Brotherhood. Such retreats, with
+all reverence be it spoken, are no less agreeable to the
+Anchorite, than Caprea was of old to the Roman
+Emperor. Whether it is, that the extremes of vice,
+and the rigours of virtue, equally decline observation;
+or that affected sanctity, and avowed sensuality, though
+looking different ways, aim at the same objects; or
+that a suspension, and perversion, of the human powers,
+produce similar effects; I leave to the curious to
+determine. Certainly here might Virgil find the realities
+of his beautiful descriptions,</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent10">——<i>Hic lætis otia fundis,</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Speluncæ, vivique lacus; hic frigida Tempe,</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Mugitusque boum.</i>—</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="noindent">and, looking upon the distant mountains, he might still
+subjoin,</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Non absunt illic, saltus, ac lustra ferarum.</i></div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Hermit I have before mentioned, frequently
+shut himself up here; subsisting, as he made the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>country-people believe, upon rats and other vermin:
+but they were deceived as usual; for the bounty of
+strangers, who almost daily touched on his island,
+supplied him with food better suited to his palate, and
+his private resources made up their deficiencies.</p>
+
+<p>The low island to the Westward is inferior to Innisfallen
+in every thing but extent. It is called Brown
+Island, from its colour, and Rabbit Island, from its
+being stored with those animals. There are no trees
+upon it, and its only covering is fern: It seems to be
+placed here as a foil to the others.</p>
+
+<p>The remaining islands of the western cluster, are of
+a less size, and more contiguous to the shore, than
+those I have spoken of. Lamb’s Island is the largest of
+them: It is finely wooded, and is indeed Innisfallen
+in miniature. Hern Island lies South East of Lamb’s:
+it is small, but wooded. O’Donahue’s Prison, and
+Mouse Island, complete the cluster; and, tho’ naked
+rocks, are not destitute of beauties: they derive their
+names, the one, from its resemblance in some views
+to a house; the other, from its diminutive size.</p>
+
+<p>The islands which compose the eastern cluster, <a href="#map">Y</a>,
+though smaller, are more numerous. Garvillan, or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>Rough Island, at the east point of Ross; and Alexander’s,
+nearer the shore; are very little raised from
+the surface of the water. O’Donahue’s Table is a naked
+cragg, by gradual dilapidation worn into cavities.
+The other islands rise boldly to a point, and are counter
+parts of the vegetating heights at Mucrus. They
+are in general finely fringed with evergreens, which
+cover their angles and unevennesses; and are peopled
+by distinct tribes of birds, that feed on land in the
+day, and return at the dusk of evening: The jackdaw,
+pigeon, hern, eagle, and osprey, have all their
+separate habitations.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these which lie in irregular groupes, there
+are several single islets scattered along the shores of
+Mucrus. Friars Island is contiguous to the abbey;
+Oak Island more distant; and another, which produces
+junipers, still farther to the South. Cannon Island, a
+white rock off Camillan, is remarkably well situated
+for shewing the power of the echoes. A gun mounted
+here, and pointed against Glená, must produce a
+striking effect; for Turk, the Eagle’s nest, and the
+several mountains on the opposite sides of the river,
+would serve as so many conveyances to transmit the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>undulations to the upper lake, and multiply the repetitions.</p>
+
+<p>Brickeen, and Dinish, which lie in the mouth of
+Turk Lake, have been already described: the only
+other island in this lake is Illanan-Deoul, the Devil’s
+Island: it is lofty, steep, but not wooded.</p>
+
+<p>The upper lake contains eight islands, which are
+all worthy of notice. The Oak Islands, or Rossburkree,
+separated only in winter, are the most considerable;
+and lie in the south-east part of the lake, opposite
+the mouth of the river. They are richly covered
+with timber, but particularly the eastern, which must
+yield up its oaks at the same time with the adjoining
+Glynn: they are rugged, and uneven, though no
+where hilly, and stretch away in length.</p>
+
+<p>Arbutus Island lies over-against Rossburkree, half
+encompassed by a shady bay. Its shape is pyramidical,
+and its rocky sides are covered with strawberry-trees.
+In the latter end of October, when I first visited Killarney,
+they were in high beauty: many of their bells
+and blossoms still remaining, the fruit on some just
+forming, and on others nearly ripe. The same bough
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span>often exhibited all these varieties. The ordinary height
+of the tree is ten, or twelve feet; but I have seen
+some of a happier growth which rose to eighteen, or
+twenty. The blossom is shaped like a goblet, and the
+fruit nearly spherical: it is at first of a pale yellow,
+which deepens as it advances to ripeness, and gradually
+gives place to a rich scarlet. It equals the largest garden
+strawberry in size, but must be eaten with more
+caution, for those who are unaccustomed to it, and
+indulge too freely, are seized with an oppression little
+less than lethargic: This I take upon the credit of the
+country-people, who use it themselves without reserve,
+generally accompanying it with a hearty draught of
+water, to qualify its juices. The elder Pliny calls this
+fruit Unido, because no more than one berry can be
+eaten at a time with safety: but Virgil makes it the
+common food of the first inhabitants of the earth, following
+Lucretius, who ranks it with the acorn itself,
+and tells us that in the earlier ages it grew to an extraordinary
+size, and was found in greater abundance.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Glandiferas inter curabant corpora quercus</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Plerumque; et quæ nunc, hiberno tempore, cernis</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Arbuta, pœniceo, fieri matura, colore,</i></div>
+      <div class="verse indent0"><i>Plurima, tum tellus, etiam majora, ferebat.</i></div>
+    </div>
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse right"><span class="smcap">Lucret.</span> Lib. V.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span></p>
+
+<p>The arbutus was no less esteemed among the ancients
+for its pleasant shade, than its fruit; as may be
+discovered from the poets, and particularly from Horace,
+the admirer, and best judge, of whatever is elegant
+in retirement.</p>
+
+<p>The remaining islands to the number of five, lie
+together in a cluster, <a href="#map">Z</a>, at the west end of the lake,
+about half a mile from the shore. They are beautiful
+in themselves, and are so grouped as to form a delightful
+assemblage: They are all lofty, all wooded;
+and the bold broken craggs, and angles, in many places
+overhanging the lake, seem to forbid the approach of
+human footsteps, and consecrate them to their native
+ospreys and eagles. But man has notwithstanding intruded;
+for in the central one, which is only accessible
+in one spot, there is a cottage raised under shelter
+of the rocks, and trees, which is occupied every season.
+The cottage is composed of timber, interwoven
+with boughs; and is so matted, and covered in, with
+leaves, and sedge, as to form a comfortable habitation.
+The gentleman to whom it belongs, visits it twice a
+year, for the benefit of shooting and fishing: he sometimes
+continues for two entire months, as much secluded
+from the world as an Indian in Ontario, or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>Mishigan: He is a man of independent fortune, and,
+as I have been told, a batchelor.</p>
+
+<p>In traversing his little island, I observed it was carpeted
+over with a thick covering of decayed leaves,
+and boughs. I could easily discover the strata of the
+several past years, by the different degrees of putrefaction;
+till near the bottom, where the dissolution was
+more complete, they were cemented into one uniform
+mass, condensed by the pressure above, and so swoln
+by the rains and moisture, as not to be at all distinguishable.
+As the decay was more perfect, the colours
+declined more perceptibly from the original lighter
+tints, ending, in the bottom, in as perfect a black, as I
+ever saw in any of our bogs. The similitude of the
+contexture, as well as the colour, convinced me, that
+the black bogs with which Ireland abounds, have been
+formed by the same process: a process which is probably
+forwarded, by the continual moisture, and rains,
+in a climate, neither burnt up by scorching heats,
+nor congealed by the rigours of cold.</p>
+
+<p>This inhabited islet is the center of the groupe;
+to the South-west of it lie Stag, and Hind; and
+M’Carthy’s, and the Eagles Rock, to the North and
+North-west.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="SECTION_III">SECTION III.</h2>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>The objects we have just taken a review of, gave
+me such pleasure in the contemplation, that I
+cannot help wondering at those, who profess themselves
+disappointed in them, and affect to decry them:
+Men should be cautious in admitting preconceptions.
+If they expect to see something altogether great, and
+stupendous, in a circuit of ten or twelve miles; the variety
+of objects, and the narrow limits of the scene, must
+necessarily disappoint them: for greatness in natural
+objects requires an unbroken uniformity of appearance,
+and that uniformity reigning over a wide extended
+surface. If they look for the aweful and terrible; the
+happy temperature of the climate, which cloaths even
+the rocks and precipices with a rich covering, and
+overspreads the rugged face of the mountains with
+luxuriance, is a natural bar to it. But if beauties will
+content them, in every degree of the scale, from wild
+magnificence, downwards; it is strange to me if they
+go away unsatisfied. Indeed what can be more beautiful,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>than the several views of a fine piece of water,
+studded with islands, encompassed by mountains, resounding
+with waterfalls, and reflecting, on all sides,
+the umbrageous trees, and evergreens, that adorn its
+banks? What can be more surprising than the fertility
+of the rocks, where the trees, too ponderous for their
+feeble roots, are often bent towards the earth, and
+flourish thus distorted? What more curious than different
+species of shrubs springing from the same decayed
+stock; which, no longer able to push forth
+leaves itself, serves as a nidus to others? And is there
+any thing more wonderful than the power of the echoes;
+which not only multiplies and reiterates the
+most ordinary sounds, but swells them to the pitch of
+natural thunder?</p>
+
+<p>To hazard an opinion: The prevailing character of
+Killarney is Variety; the second Beauty; Magnificence
+is subordinate. Here Beauty, by her magic, and diffusive
+influence, gives a grace to Variety; whilst
+Variety furnishes her benefactress with flattering contrasts:
+United, they present the fancy with the most
+delightful images, of repose, tranquillity, unstudied
+order, natural wildness, and rural magnificence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span></p>
+
+<p>Objects, desirable in themselves, derive new beauties
+from their position with respect to others; and even
+such as excite no pleasing emotions when viewed
+singly, have often an agreeable effect in combination.
+But these relative beauties, as they result from the
+harmonious proportion of a number of parts, are entirely
+lost by an injudicious jumble of them; so that
+to see a multiplicity of objects to advantage, it is necessary
+to class them with taste, and consider them in
+those lights, and points of view, where they neither
+run into a perplexing confusion, on the one hand, nor
+a tiresome sameness, on the other.</p>
+
+<p>The most magnificent view of the Great Lake and its
+environs is that from the Yellow Mountain (<a href="#map">1</a>), about
+two miles to the Northward. The eye passing over a
+rich valley, meets the lake in the center, with the
+Eagles Nest, and the other mountains which stretch
+to the upper lake, behind it: on one side are Glená,
+Tomé, and M’Gilly Cuddy’s Ricks, which lose themselves
+to the Westward; on the other, Turk, Mangerton,
+Glanflesk, and the Paps, in the opposite direction;
+all together forming a range of more than twenty
+miles. The waving outline of these mountains is uncommonly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>beautiful: the lake is happily placed in the
+center; and there is a degree of unstudied regularity
+in the whole, which, added to the majesty of the single
+parts, makes a noble, regular, and striking picture.</p>
+
+<p>Aghadoe (<a href="#map">2</a>) was of old an episcopal seat, and a
+place of some consequence: a ruined turret, and the
+shattered walls of a cathedral, are the only vestiges of
+it remaining. It stands on an eminence to the North
+of the lake, near the western extremity, and commands
+a most extensive prospect of its borders, and
+islands. Innisfallin, and the western cluster, appear
+from hence in perfect beauty: the shaggy sides of
+Glená, and Tomé, are finely opposed to the level
+shores; the distant islands, referred to their contiguous
+banks, have the air of so many promontories; and the
+stately mountains, Turk and Mangerton, rising from
+behind the peninsula of Mucrus, complete one of the
+most beautiful scenes in nature.</p>
+
+<p>Dunlow castle (<a href="#map">3</a>), the seat of Mr. Crosby, is the
+best station for viewing the lake from the West. It
+stands on a perpendicular cliff over the river Lune,
+about a mile from its source, and with the surrounding
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>scenery is a very fine object. From hence the
+islands are seen in a different, but less pleasing situation;
+the view is bounded to the right by Tomé, and
+Glená; and, taking in the sloping bank, and the village
+of Killarney, to the left, terminates agreeably on
+Mucrus, and the high grounds beyond it: The several
+doublings, and turns, of the river, that winds through
+the rich valley beneath, have a pleasing effect; and
+for a contrast, the bleak sides of the Ricks, and the
+hollow Glynn which divides them from Tomé, afford
+one sufficiently glaring.</p>
+
+<p>The views from the East (<a href="#map">4</a>) are very numerous,
+and beautiful: there is scarce a break, or height,
+along the Peninsula, that does not present a new face
+of things, or a different arrangement of them. The
+eminence near the abbey, the meadows and gardens at
+Mucrus, and the point of Camillan, where Turk,
+Glená, and the Eagles Nest, meet the eye at once,
+must be noted by the most careless observers.</p>
+
+<p>To those who would have a perfect knowledge of
+the lakes, the top of Turk (<a href="#map">5</a>) is the best station.
+From thence they appear as distinctly, as if delineated
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span>on canvass; but the minuter beauties are lost by the
+height of the mountain, and at best, a prospect from
+such an overtopping eminence, is better calculated
+for the Ichnographist, than the man of taste and
+fancy.</p>
+
+<p>From the side of Mangerton (<a href="#map">6</a>), about one fourth
+of the common ascent, there is a very commanding
+prospect of the Great Lake, and the adjacent country,
+which shews the objects more in the light of perspective
+than that from Turk, at the same time that it
+preserves the natural arrangement of the islands, and
+the sinuosity of the bays. Here the Peninsula seems
+to float on the surface of the water like a vast serpent,
+and, when illuminated by the sun’s rays, displays its
+green spiry length, every where distinct with shining
+beauties, in a manner at the same time singular, and
+pleasing.</p>
+
+<p>From the top of this mountain, ascended by a tedious
+path of three miles, the prospect is wild, commanding,
+and in a manner unbounded. On one side lie the lakes,
+diminished almost in the scale of Shakespear’s fancied
+simpler: On the other, at some distance, the noble
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span>river of Kenmare, along which the eye passing for
+near thirty miles reposes at length on the swelling
+bosom of the Atlantic. On all sides save one the
+country is mountainous; to the East the mountains
+trend away in an irregular ridge, till obscured and
+lost in the opaque vapours; to the West, and indeed
+in every other direction, they are thrown together in
+as tumultuous, and wild an assemblage, as if Chaos
+had been here arrested in his billowy career, and
+chained to stability by the supreme <i>fiat</i>. The lakes
+are seen from hence but partially, and in truth appear
+only as a drop of water, to the vast ocean in view:
+while the mountains which encompass them, compared
+with Mangerton itself, hide their diminished
+heads, declining all rivality. Taken together, tho’ far
+inferior even to the maritime Alps in grandeur, and as
+much to the mountains in Switzerland, and the Esterelles
+in Provence, in fertility, they exhibit an appearance
+of nature so uncommon, as must furnish the best
+informed fancy with new, and picturesque images.</p>
+
+<p>And now, traveller, having satisfied thy curiosity,
+plod thy way downwards; for the clouds begin to
+marshal, the vapours to accumulate, and soon will the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span>scene thou gazest at vanish, and the spot where thou
+standest become the seat of darkness; unless thou indeed
+wouldest inhabit the clouds, and <i>sensibly experience</i>
+that palpable Obscure, which thou hast only <i>read of</i>
+in Milton.</p>
+
+<p>The most desirable view of the upper lake is from
+the East, on the cliffs of Crom-a-glaun, or Bolinendra
+(<a href="#map">7</a>). The islands, and mountains, are seen from
+hence in a very happy arrangement; and there is a
+certain air of wildness in the prospect, which borders
+on the romantic.</p>
+
+<p>These are some of the views from the banks, and
+eminences, in the neighbourhood of the lakes, that
+appeared to me the most pleasing. Those from the
+lake itself, though not so extensive, are no less beautiful;
+but they are so numerous, and it is so difficult
+to convey an adequate idea of their nice varieties, and
+differences, that I shall barely hint at one or two in
+the most distinguished classes.</p>
+
+<p>Turk, when viewed from the lake below (<a href="#map">8</a>), has
+some pretensions to grandeur: it rises to a respectable
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>height, fills the eye with an unbroken surface of two
+miles in extent, and is one great and uniform object:
+but greatness is a relative term, and that degree of it
+we speak of, is rather calculated to give the mind a
+certain taste of grandeur, than to satisfy it with a
+complete idea.</p>
+
+<p>From the river immediately beneath (<a href="#map">9</a>), the rugged
+appearance of the Eagles Nest inspires surprise, and
+awe; but the sportive hand of Nature has so managed
+it, that these feelings never border upon that anxious
+uneasiness which attends the contemplation of objects
+properly speaking terrible.</p>
+
+<p>From the upper lake between Arbutea, and Rossburkree
+(<a href="#map">10</a>), the western isles are seen at a due distance,
+and appear to great advantage. The eye is confined
+on each side by two uniform risings, and the
+back ground of the picture is occupied by the amphitheatre
+of mountains which encompasses the western
+valley. There is a beauty in the islands, a wildness
+in the mountains, and a magnificence in the air of
+the whole prospect, which not only amuses the mind,
+but seems to exalt and expand it, and awakens such
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>sentiments as one feels from a sublime passage in Homer
+or Milton.</p>
+
+<p>The effect of many of these views is, in my opinion,
+much heightened by the hourly revolutions in the
+face of the heavens. The vast volumes of clouds,
+which are rolled together from the Atlantic, and rest
+on the summits of the mountains, cloath them with
+majesty: the different masses of light and shade, traversing
+the lakes in succession, as the shifting bodies
+above float across them, exhibit all the varieties of
+night, and day, almost at the same instant: the mists
+interposing their dull, yet transparent coverings to the
+view, raise new desires of a fuller, and clearer prospect:
+and the wandering vapours flitting from cliff to
+cliff, as if in search of the clouds from which they
+have been separated, amuse the eye with their varieties,
+and irregular motions.</p>
+
+<p>After all, this happy spot labours under one disadvantage,
+and one too I am the more averse to mention,
+since so celebrated a writer as Doctor Johnson
+has thought it sufficient, in the case of Loch Lomond,
+to counterbalance so many natural beauties; and this
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>is no other than the immense rains; which fall here
+more abundantly, and that even in the best seasons
+for visiting the lake, than in all other parts of
+the kingdom. But surely Philosophy will suggest
+many topics to quiet our complainings on this head.
+She will tell us, that to expect perfection in things
+sublunary, is to wish where we cannot hope: that
+the cup of pleasure, even when presented to us by the
+pure hand of Benevolence, is never without some unpalatable
+ingredients: that where Nature has provided
+us with so rich a repast, where she has displayed such
+enchanting scenery to the eye, and gratuitously accumulated
+all this variety of entertainment; we ought
+to enjoy her bounties, in the time, manner, and circumstances
+she chooses to exhibit them. But if we
+should further discover, that the limitations she sets
+to our pleasures, are necessary to our being pleased at
+all; that what we call a disadvantage is the spring
+and source of all we admire; that the Hyades are
+here the handmaids of Flora; for that without these
+perpetual effusions of rain we complain of, the rocks
+must resign their vegetable inhabitants, the rivers
+mourn their exhausted urns, and the cascades no
+longer resound save in the dull ear of Memory; that the
+living lake itself must dwindle into an inconsiderable
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>pool, and the mountains, stript of their honours,
+become a dreary waste, the abode of gloom and barrenness:
+In this case, surely, our complaints must
+be turned to admiration, and our regrets to a grateful
+acquiescence. Shall we not here exclaim in the spirit
+of Homer!</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+  <div class="poetry">
+    <div class="stanza">
+      <div class="verse indent0">With gold-embraided locks, the exulting Seasons</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">Received her from the hands of forming Nature;</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">And round her silver margin did encircle,</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">With never-fading forms, umbrageous hills,</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">Sweet vocal vallies, plains enamel’d o’er</div>
+      <div class="verse indent0">With many a flower.</div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+</div>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp90" id="illus" style="max-width: 37.5em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/illus.jpg" alt="">
+</figure>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES</h2>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Memoirs of Great Britain and Ireland.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> By the experiment of the barometer, Mangerton was found to be 3060
+feet in perpendicular height. But the sudden variations of the state of the
+air, at considerable heights, in a climate so changeable as ours, seem to require
+the concurrence of repeated experiments as the basis of admissible
+conclusions.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> I have included the several ranges of mountains which form the shores
+of this lake, under the name of the most considerable, to avoid multiplying
+uncouth terms. What I have called Ghirmeen is known by the several denominations
+of Doogery, Ghirmeen, and Derry-Carnagh: On the opposite
+side, besides Cahirnee, are Derry-Lishigane, Galloveely, and Derry-Arde:
+and to the East, under Crom-a-glaun are included, Bolinendra, Derry-Dimna,
+and Derry-Cannihy.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Vide <i>Collectanea Hibernica</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76556 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
+
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author	pgww <pgww@lists.pglaf.org>	2025-07-23 14:22:03 -0700
committer	pgww <pgww@lists.pglaf.org>	2025-07-23 14:22:03 -0700
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