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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/76556-0.txt b/76556-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b802b4 --- /dev/null +++ b/76556-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,989 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76556 *** + + + + + +A DESCRIPTION OF KILLARNEY. + + + + + A + DESCRIPTION + OF + KILLARNEY. + + ——τὴν δὲ χρυσάμπυκες Ὧραι + Δέξαντ’ ἀσπασίως, περὶ δ’ ἄμβροτα εἵματα ἔσσαν, + Πολλὰ δ’ ὄρη σκίοεντα, καὶ αὐλῶνας κελαδείνους, + Καὶ πεδί’ ἀνθεμόεντα. + + ὉΜΗΡΟΥ ὙΜΝΟΙ. + + [Illustration] + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR J. DODSLEY, IN PALL-MALL. + M. DCC. LXXVI. + + + + +A DESCRIPTION OF KILLARNEY. + + + + +SECTION I. + + +To convey to the fancy a lively representation of substantial visible +forms, is deemed rather the province of that artist who speaks to the +eye, than of the mere verbal describer. Yet so limited are the powers +of the pencil, that by it, the same object can only be represented, in +one moment of its existence, and under a single point of view; whereas +description ranges in a wider field, commands the several changes which +time, in its silent lapse, draws along with it; exhibits things in +all the different lights, and positions, in which they can be viewed; +discovers new beauties in effects from unravelling their causes; traces +under the mouldering ruin, stately temples, domes, and palaces, the +monuments of a race of mortals long forgotten; takes in an extent +of scenery, which the unassisted eye loses, and the pencil faintly +pourtrays; and throws a mysterious veil over every object, by allusions +and details drawn from the stores of history and fable: + + There Arthur lies, and there the Runic bard; + Here fell the hero; these sad hollow anters, + That grove, did hear his moan. + +Revolving these advantages of the descriptive method, over the mere +plastic, I wished to prove its excellence by an example; and meeting with +a subject altogether engaging, I made the following attempt to exhibit it +in its true colours. I inscribe it to the Academy of Royal Artists, as +a poor atonement for my presumptuous encroachment upon the province of +picture. + +I visited Killarney in the most favourable seasons for viewing it, when +the trees resigning their foliage, were already marked with all the +different colourings of decay: and when spring, repairing the winter’s +ravages, had again cloathed them with renewed verdure: but I preferred +the autumnal prospect. + +The lake is divided into two great branches, or more properly speaking, +there are two distinct lakes, A, B, connected by a winding river. + +The northern lake, called also Lough Lane, from its receiving a torrent +of that name, is by many degrees the larger. It is divided into two +branches, the one distinguished by the name of the Great Lake, and the +other called Turk Lake, C, from a mountain that overhangs it. + +The Great Lake lies East and West, and from Mr. Herbert’s park, to the +mouth of the Lune, measures about seven English miles. Its breadth, from +the neighbourhood of Reen Point, to the opposite side, is said to be +nearly four. + +Turk Lake is about two miles and a half in length, and three quarters of +a mile in breadth; it stretches from East to West, with an inclination to +the North and South. + +The southern shores of both these lakes are formed by high mountains; +those of the Great Lake covered with wood, those of the other without +wood. The land which bounds them to the North, the East, and the West, +is either a flat, or only raised from the water by gentle swellings. ’Tis +generally diversified by plantations. + +I shall first trace out the several bays, banks, and islands, which occur +in the lakes, proportioning my detail to the importance of the objects; +that passing from particulars to generals, we may, on some good grounds, +establish a comprehensive character of the whole; and, with the better +relish and judgment, proceed to consider the more remarkable points of +view. + +The angular mountain Glynnau, or Glauná, D, stands on the South side +of the lake, and has two sides washed by it; for round this mountain +the lake takes a turn, and so runs to a narrow point, where it receives +the water from the upper or southern lake. This is a very beautiful +mountain, covered for a great part of the ascent with forest trees, such +as oak, ash, pine, alder, and birch, intermixed with hazel, whitethorn, +yew, holley, and arbutus, all perfectly wild. The forest trees are not +very stately, but the yews, holleys, and strawberry-trees, are in great +perfection; and blending their different greens, form a fine mixture. +The sides of the mountain, though not uniform, rise with an easy +acclivity from the water, and are here and there broken by gullies, and +streamlets, which is pleasing. The shores are all along indented; and +from the angle particularly, there runs a point richly wooded, which +forms two bays. The principal inhabitants of this mountain are the +red deer, which, among the sequestered thickets, enjoy an undisturbed +repose; except on some gala day, when O’Donahue makes a sacrifice to the +curiosity of the visitors of the lake, or his own passion for the chace, +which happens rarely. The music of the dogs and horns, and the shouts of +the hunters, posted in great numbers along the ridge of the mountain, are +re-echoed from the several parts of it; and produce an effect singularly +pleasing. It is from hence the stag generally precipitates himself into +the lake, when hard pressed by his pursuers; who studiously reduce him to +this necessity, by hemming him in on all sides; and his spirited efforts +to prolong existence in an element so unfriendly to him, afford the +highest entertainment. This mountain is the property of Lord Kenmare. + +Toomish, or Tomé, E, stands to the westward of Glynnau, from which it is +separated by a torrent, called, in the expressive phrase of the natives, +Screech Stream. It completes the Southern boundary of the lake, and in +its situation, and appearance, much resembles Glynnau. The finest cascade +in the neighbourhood of Killarney, falls from this mountain; which, +retaining the name of its ancient possessor, is called O’Sullivan’s +Cascade. While the rains prevail it is amply supplied with water, and +exhibits a very beautiful picture. It falls from three great stages, of +nearly equal heights, disposed in such a manner, that the course of the +stream which supplies it, is hid from the spectator. The water is so +agitated in its course down the mountain, that from the instant it breaks +upon the eye, it is one entire sheet of foam; and dashing from stage to +stage, enlivens every thing around it, by the reflection of the scattered +rays which fall upon it; serving at once to illuminate, and contrast, +the shady green trees and shrubs which overhang it. The only spot from +which it can be seen to advantage, is from a rock in the channel below; +from thence the stages seem to diminish from bottom to top, from twenty +four or five feet, to twenty, and from twenty to fifteen or sixteen. +The whole scene abounds with the most picturesque beauties, but the +minuteness of the objects, and that air of regularity which is diffused +over the whole, strikes it out of the class of grandeur and sublimity. +At some distance from the cascade, there are two or three rude cottages, +inhabited by a set of hardy mountaineers, who probably subsist by the +chace. They generally come down to traffick with strangers, bringing with +them nuts, and wild berries; and sometimes cuttings of yew, thorn, and +oak, for walking sticks. The only bounties of Heaven they seem to enjoy, +are health, and a fine prospect; contentment, if they possess it, is with +them an heroic virtue. This mountain belongs to Mr. Herbert of Mucrus. + +Towards the West, the lake washes a very rich and improveable country. +The part of it which extends from Tomé, to Dunlow castle, is called +O’Sullivan’s Country, F; but is now the property of Mr. Herbert. It is no +where marked with very striking features; it rises in a swelling slope +from the lake, and is here and there diversified by trees, particularly +on the banks of the Lune. This river is very considerable at its source, +being the only outlet from the lake, which receives from the surrounding +mountains several plentiful streams. Winding for a considerable way +through a rich valley, it separates O’Sullivan’s country from the estate +of Macarthy-more; and taking a westerly course, discharges itself into +the ocean at the distance of seven or eight miles. It is called by the +natives the Leaune. + +The estate of Macarthy-more, G, compleats the western boundary of the +lake. The house is well situated, upon a rising ground near the river; +but the improvements are much neglected. In alighting to take a view +of the ancient family seat at Pallice, I gave the bridle of my horse +to a poor boy, who seemed to look for it with a degree of eagerness. +From his manner of answering some questions I asked him, I was led to +enquire into his situation; and was not a little surprized to find, that +though sunk in the most abject poverty, he was, nevertheless, a good +classical scholar. He was well acquainted with the best Latin poets, had +read over most of the historians, and was then busy with the orations +of Cicero. I could not help pitying, at the same time that I admired +him, and lamenting the hard situation which rendered his knowledge +useless; his taste and refinements the sources of continual disgusts and +mortifications; and even his habits of study pernicious, as they diverted +him from those active employments, which alone could keep him above want +and wretchedness. I found, upon further enquiry, that this classical +spirit is very general among the lower sort of people in Kerry: a +circumstance, which gives an air of probability to the romantic accounts +of a late Memoir-writer[1], concerning the learning and taste of certain +northern shepherds. + +The lands, which lie along the northern shores, H, of the lake, have a +very uniform character; they are such as one sees every where, hills and +dales tolerably wooded, and pretty well enclosed; but capable, from their +soil, and above all from their situation, of being made very enviable +scenes. A neat farm house, built upon a charming neck of land, called by +way of eminence The Point, and possessed by Mr. Mahony, is better adapted +to the spot, and raises more pleasing ideas, than if it wore a more gaudy +assuming air. The bay, which lies between this neck and Reen Point, is +one of the largest, and most delightful in the lake; and owes so great a +share of its beauty to the islands, that I can scarce forbear mentioning +them. Reen Point lies nearly in the middle between the extremities of +the lake; and, about an English mile behind it, stands the village of +Killarney, and Lord Kenmare’s house. About half a mile to the East +of it, the Flesk, a very fine stream, which springs from Glanflesk, a +mountain some miles distant, falls into the lake. On its eastern bank, +close upon the shore, is Cahiranane, the seat of Mr. Arthur Herbert, +which has nothing remarkable to boast of. This side of the lake ends in a +sandy bay, one of the finest I remember to have seen in it. Lord Kenmare +is the principal proprietor. + +We now come to the eastern boundary of the Great Lake, which is every +where rich in wild beauties. The northern part of it is called Mucrus, +I; as it stretches southerly, it gets the name of Camillan, K; and round +the extremity of Camillan is the passage to Turk Lake. It is impossible +to conceive any thing more charming than the shady bays, creeks, and +recesses, which the lake here forms. The variety of their shapes, the +smoothness of the water, the reflection of the trees with which the banks +are fringed, and the fertility of the very rocks which form the points +and angles, produce a mixed sensation of surprize and pleasure, which +it is difficult to describe. There is a stillness and tranquillity in +the air of these retreats, that is uncommonly engaging, and sets the +imagination to work to conjure up forms and build castles in every one +of them; the accessary ideas give new life to the scene, and the mind +returns with additional ardour to contemplate it. In some places you are +presented with an abrupt shore, and rocks of unchisselled marble hollowed +into caverns; in others, the level beach, covered over with smooth green +carpeting, seems to court your approach by a display of internal scenery. +Here you meet with a promontory, rising from the lake with the majesty of +a colossus; there stands another, the Parnassus of Silvanus, adorned with +every chosen shrub in which the God delights: and woe to the dull mortal, +that hears him not, as he passes, rustle among the thickets; for lo! even +now he emerges, and dispensing fragrance as he ascends, looks down with +benign complacency upon those happy regions, for which he has rifled the +gardens of Flora, to rival her once favourite Tempè. + + ——_Deus, ecce Deus!_—— + +Mucrus abbey is situated upon an eminence, rising over the lake, near the +northern extremity of this range. It is in tolerable preservation, and +still serves as a burying-place to the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. +A modern hermit, some years ago, pitched upon it as the place of his +retirement. He chose an open cell, in one of the upper apartments, for +his mansion; and formed a defence for himself against the inclemencies +of the weather, from the shattered remains of the tombs and coffins. His +vow was not rigidly strict; for he sometimes mixed with the world. He was +communicative enough on some subjects, and, as I have heard, tolerably +well informed. But at length he sullied the lustre of his character, by +indulging in the sordid unmanly vice of private drinking, oftentimes to +intoxication; till, finding the veneration he was held in daily diminish, +he abandoned a scene where he could no longer appear with credit. He was +an Englishman; and, when he left Killarney, proposed going to the rock +of Lisbon. There is certainly no place better adapted to a recluse than +this, especially if he possesses any degree of enthusiasm, as there is +none which can compensate the loss of social enjoyments by such a variety +of contemplative ones. The greatest curiosity of the abbey is a yew +planted in the center of the building. Its trunk is between seven and +eight feet in circumference, and its boughs form a compleat covering to +the cloister, which is a square of twelve yards. My Cicerone, pointing +to a wound in the bark of it, told me with a very grave face, that the +wretch, who had the hardiness to inflict it, paid the full price of his +sacrilege; for that a numbness instantly seized the guilty arm, spread +gradually over his whole frame, and in a few minutes dispatched him. +The abbey is too much shut up by trees; it might be so managed, by a +delicate hand, as to become a fine object of view, without being entirely +dragged from its retreat, and exposed to open day. An objection of the +same kind lies against the situation of Mr. Herbert’s house, which, in +the midst of the most desirable objects, enjoys a very limited prospect +of the lake, and appears to no advantage itself. The gardens are not +dressed with care; and would deserve little notice, were it not for +the extraordinary ledges of rocks which run through them. These have +not the least covering of earth to defend them, and yet rival the most +luxuriant spots in their produce. They are cloathed from one end to the +other with shrubs and trees, which seem to draw their juices from the +very marble itself, as the crannies and pores, from which they issue, +are so scantily provided with mold, that it is difficult to conceive +it sufficient for their nourishment. It is wonderful how pliably they +accommodate themselves to the several windings and crevices of the stone, +and how artfully their roots are disposed for the reception of every +drop of moisture; and their great variety, some of them the most tender, +delicate shrubs our climate admits of, still adds to the surprize. The +service-tree grows here spontaneously; the vine flourishes; the common +fruits are the produce of every cliff; the arbutus seems indigenous; the +lilack, rose, lauristinus, and cytisus, require no other culture than +that of the pruning knife; every neglected spot in this wilderness of +sweets is enamelled with flowers, and fragrant herbs, and plants loaded +with blossoms, or berries. + + _Dum vagor aspectu, oculosque per omnia duco,_ + _Calcabam, nec opinus, opes._ + +I observed, almost universally, in the trees springing from these rocks, +that the part of the trunk contained within the stone was much smaller +than the external, sometimes by several inches in the diameter;—a proof +of fertility this, which renders all others superfluous. + +From the house at Mucrus to the extreme point of Camillan, there runs a +winding road of near two miles in length, very judiciously calculated to +unfold the interior beauties of the Peninsula: (for it is a Peninsula, +and as one side encloses the Great Lake to the East, the other forms +the northern boundary of Turk Lake.) Here there is a vast number of +those rocks and craggs, vegetating from every pore, differing in shape +and situation, and thrown without order into irregular groupes, which +afford new landscapes as you advance, and every instant present different +combinations and figures. They generally lie at a considerable distance +from each other, and are separated by low marshy swamps, which produce +nothing but heath, and the common aquatic shrubs; by which means they +have much the appearance of islands. And here I cannot help indulging +a conjecture, that the islands in the lake itself have been, at some +distant period, situated as these are: and that, by the stoppage or +interruption of the great outlet from the lake, or an additional influx +into it, the body of water has been so increased as to insulate the +higher grounds; and that the continuance of the cause has rendered +the separation permanent. It is certain this conjecture appears more +probable, if we consider the near resemblance of many of the islands +to the rocks I have just now described, and their proximity to the +level shores on the north and east sides of the lake, where the water +is comparatively shallow. It might be further confirmed by similar +instances; and particularly by the instance of Lough Neagh, in the +province of Ulster; which has for many years past gained on the land, +as is clearly evinced by a late writer. But as I cannot support it by +testimony or observation, the only sure grounds to build upon, I abandon +it as a bare probability. + +Nearer the point of Camillan the surface is less varied by detached +heights, and risings, and more uniformly wooded. It is of a very stoney +nature, and almost every where covered with a thick moss, which is here +ornamental. As the lakes lie on both sides, with their islands and +mountains, how greatly might the charms of this spot be enhanced, by +introducing them judiciously in different views and situations? which, +by the simple management of leading a path from one side to the other, +now skirting the bays, and now ascending the heights, might easily be +accomplished. And how much might the views from the lakes be improved, +by here and there opening up the bays and recesses, and allowing the eye +to penetrate into the more remote scenes, as if by stolen glances? To +mutilate nature is inhuman, to aim at excelling her is madness: It is the +province of art to withdraw the veil that conceals her beauties, and +discover them in all their wildness. + +The side of the Peninsula, which forms the northern boundary of Turk +Lake, so nearly resembles the other, that what Ovid says of the sisters +of Phaëton is literally true of them: they have the same general air +and complexion, though they differ in particular features. The whole +Peninsula is the property of Mr. Herbert of Mucrus, whose estates in this +country are very considerable: his ancestors were among the first English +settlers; and tho’ he generally resides in England, his tenantry seem to +enjoy more happiness, than ordinarily falls to the share of the deserted +Irish peasant; who, between intrinsic indolence and external exaction, +penurious in the midst of plenty, wanders upon the surface of the most +fertile country in the world, a melancholy instance of complicated misery. + +The eastern shore of Turk Lake, L, is distinguished by no particular +beauty I know of: it is formed by the bleak side of Mangerton, and +separated from Turk, the mountain which confines the lake to the South, +by the Devil’s Stream. This stream has its source near the top of +Mangerton, which is esteemed the highest ground in Ireland[2]. Its +source is a vast cavity in the mountain, fed by the discharge of the +clouds which are daily bursting over it. The natives stile it the Pit of +Hell, but it is more commonly called the Devil’s Punch-bowl. It sometimes +sends down very impetuous torrents, which sufficiently mark their course +by their ravages: to this it probably owes its original name. + +Turk, M, though not so lofty as Mangerton, is a much nobler object. +Its outline is free and graceful, rising to a point by easy stages, +and sinking towards the plain in such a manner as to form an irregular +cone. The side towards the lake is quite inaccessible, and to the eye +below has a wild air of grandeur, occasioned, as I conceive, by the +uniformity of its appearance, which presents no gaudy colourings to +divert the mind from contemplating the single idea of its extent. It is +entirely without trees, which as it contributes to the above effect, and +affords a striking contrast to the shady banks of Mucrus, is hardly to be +regretted. The river Lane rises near the summit, and is seen throughout +its course, which is a very direct one: it gives its name to the whole +lake, anciently called Loch Lein. + +Between the Peninsula, and the low land which stretches from Turk, lie +the islands Brickeen and Dinish, which separate the two northern lakes. +They are divided from the shores by very narrow straits: that between +Brickeen, and the Peninsula, which is the widest, not exceeding twenty +yards. Both these islands are richly wooded, and abound with luxuriant +arbutus; they serve as resting places to the deer, which descend from +Glená, at the dawn of morning, to feed in the plains and meadows of +Mucrus; and here too they often shelter themselves, when roused by the +hunters, and driven from their more secret haunts in the mountains. + +Dinish extends to the very mouth of the river which flows from the upper +or southern lake; and, by the opposition of its sides, distributes the +stream into two unequal channels. The river issues from the northern side +of the lake, and with all, its windings and angles, measures four miles. +The eastern bank, N, presents nothing interesting; it is low, craggy, +and infertile, scarcely producing a shrub or tree. The high grounds, +at some distance, which extend from Turk to the southward, though by +no means picturesque, are a relief to the prospect. The opposite bank +is skirted by the shaggy sides of Glená, that runs into the country in +this direction for a considerable length: its appearance here is not so +varied, as from the lower lake, but is still pleasing; it is terminated +to the South by the Eagle’s Nest. + +This remarkable rock, O, presents its principal front to the North, and +the river, making an abrupt turn, passes directly under it. It has that +bold freedom in its general outline which sets at naught description, +and demands the pencil of Salvator himself to express justly. From the +ruggedness of its impending cliffs, which almost overshadow the river, it +would be truly aweful, if the trees and shrubs which cover them, did not +counteract the effect, by diffusing an air of festivity over the whole, +which strips it of its terrors. The parts of it, considered singly, are +beautiful; their strange combination produces surprise. The effect of a +musket or peterara discharged against this mountain, exceeds every thing +I had conceived possible. The report is encreased to a degree almost +incredible, and returning upon the ear in redoubled peals, now from the +neighbouring, now from the more distant mountains, imperceptibly dying +away, and again reviving, till it finally expires in hollow, interrupted +murmurs, bears a nearer resemblance to natural bursts of thunder, than +any thing artificial. The mountain is inhabited by Eagles, which build +their nests on the craggs, and inaccessible heights, and are continually +hovering round it: like true birds of Jove, they seem to have chosen it +for their abode, from the allurements of its pealing echoes. + +The mountain which runs from the Eagle’s Nest, to the upper lake, is two +miles in length. It is one continued ridge without break, or rising; and +from its figure, and inclination, is with singular propriety called the +Great Range, P. Near the upper end of it is the seat of the musical echo. +The spot where it resides is a hollow bosom in the mountain, covered on +all sides with trees. The sounds are reverberated from the several parts +of it, and are softened upon every repetition, so as to terminate in the +sweetest cadences. A single horn produces a concert, and is multiplied +into as many instruments as there are echoes; these mellowing in their +tones, from the original notes of the leading instrument, to the dying +falls of the last repetitions, and mingling together in a wild, but +harmonious confusion, afford the finest specimen of natural music in the +world. The power of the echoes might easily be ascertained by breathing a +single note on any instrument, or by the voice; and afterwards, it would +be an easy matter, at any period in a passage of music, to determine the +number and quality of the sounds, which are employed in expressing it. + +The southern lake, which is entered by a narrow pass called Colman’s Eye, +stretches East and West for above a league; but does not any where exceed +three quarters of a mile in breadth. It has a different air from the +others, being encompassed on all sides by high grounds and mountains. + +Ghirmeen, Q, one of the most considerable of these, forms a right angle +with the Great Range, and bounds the lake to the North. It is partially +covered with trees, and on the whole has rather a pleasing, than a bleak +appearance. Arbutus Bay is the finest it affords; it derives its name, as +well as a great share of its beauty, from an island contiguous to it. +The mountain is the property of Mr. Herbert. + +M’Gilly Cuddy’s Ricks take their rise from Ghirmeen, and encircling a +valley, R, of pretty large compass to the West of the lake, form an +extensive amphitheatre. These mountains are very numerous, and, as +if Nature meant to exhaust her varieties, are broken into the most +irregular, whimsical, shapes, imaginable. They seem to be quite destitute +of planting, and indeed their fertility, at the distance most of them +lie, would contribute little to their beauty. They are plentifully +stocked with grouse, or, in the language of the natives, the hen of the +heath, notwithstanding the depredations of their joint commoners the +eagles. They furnish the lake with its principal supplies of water, +which tumbling down in a multiplicity of channels, unites in one stream +at bottom, and enriches the valley. The valley owes nothing to culture, +though to all appearance capable of it: a few wretched cottagers derive +from its borders a penurious subsistance. Its shore is distinguished by +one of those singular rocks already described; to those who see it at a +distance, it has the appearance of an island; and by a small elevation of +the water would actually become one. The whole circuit is now possessed +by Mr. Herbert; it formerly belonged to the ancient family of M’Gilly +Cuddy, whose name it still bears. The mountains are called Ricks, in +allusion to their shape, which approaches nearer to a cone than any other +regular figure. + +The southern boundary of the lake is formed by a range of high mountains. +Cahirnee, S, which joins the Ricks, is the largest of them, and belongs +to Lord Shelburne: it is distinguished by a waterfall, but is no +otherwise remarkable. Towards the eastern angle this range terminates +in a sloping bank, which forms one side of the Glynn of Derry-Cannihy. +This Glynn, T, gradually contracting as it retires from the lake, loses +itself in another, still more extensive, about a mile distant. Its +sides are covered with very stately timber, particularly oaks; and it +affords a delightful repose to the eye, fatigued with reiterated mountain +prospects. The Kavoge rolls a considerable stream through the center, +which, tumbling down a rocky channel, where it forms a variety of lesser +falls, makes the woods and caverns vocal. The Glynn belongs to Lord +Kenmare, who is now preparing to disrobe it of its trees, as well as the +adjoining mountain Derry-Dimna. Whether the Genius of the lakes, or some +more persuasive Divinity, will have power to stay his uplifted axe, time +will determine. The determination, with respect to his Lordship’s taste, +will be final. + +May no future traveller have occasion to quote here the mournful lines of +Virgil! + + _Itur in antiquam silvam, stabula alta ferarum._ + _Procumbunt piceæ, sonat icta securibus ilex,_ + _Fraxineæque trabes; cuneis et fissile robur_ + _Scinditur: advolvunt ingentes montibus ornos._ + +Crom-a-glaun[3], which belongs to Lord Kenmare also, confines the lake +to the East, U. It extends from Derry-Cannihy to within a mile of Turk, +and, though no where lofty, is one of the largest mountains in the +neighbourhood. Its sides are covered with a luxuriant copse, which +reaches down to the water’s edge: and its modest height, compared with +the aspiring cliffs over-against it, gives it the appearance of a larger +hill. The foot of this mountain is washed for a considerable length by +a narrow confined bay, lying parallel to the river. This bay has no +beauties to boast of; its western side is bleak and barren, and it is +quite destitute of islands. + +The Purple Mountain, though not immediately touching upon the lakes, is +an object of curiosity not to be passed over, W. It rises from behind the +Great Range, in a conical shape, and is strongly characterised by its +deep indigo colour. It abounds with a kind of heath, found in no other +part of the country, which produces purple berries; but receives its +prevailing tinct from another herb, used by the natives in dying. This +is probably the _Lichenoides saxatile foliis pilosis purpureis_, found +by Doctor Smith in an adjoining Barony, though overlooked by him here. +It affords shelter to a bird, so little known in Kerry, that as yet it +has no popular name. This bird, as it was described to me, is somewhat +larger than a grouse; its breast red, the rest of its plumage a clear +shining black, except the wings, and tail, which are interspersed with +white feathers. Whether this be of the same species with the heath cock, +so common in Scotland under the name of the black game, I know not: I am +sure I have heard, that the heath cock of the Highlands delights in the +purple-berried heath, and resembles our rara avis in colour. + + + + +SECTION II. + + +I have now given a general sketch of the confines of the lakes, and their +most remarkable bays. The islands are no less worthy of notice; though, +from their number, situation, and varieties, so difficult to describe, +that I despair of conveying any distinct conception of them. + +The number of islands in the lower lake exceeds thirty. They are +dispersed, without order, along the level shores to the East and North; +for to the South and West, there is one unbroken sheet of water. A few +of them lie unconnected, but the greater number is distributed into +two irregular clusters, or archipels, on the opposite sides of Ross, +X, Y. This island is the largest in the lake: it lies to the East of +Reen Point, about a mile from the village of Killarney. A very narrow +gut, scarcely navigable for boats, separates it from the shore; and +over this there is a bridge thrown, for the conveniency of the castle. +The castle stands on the land side on the island, and was formerly a +royal residence; being the seat of the Lords of the Lake, who assumed +the title of Kings. The family of O’Donahue was the last that bore this +title: its present representative enjoys a degree of respect from the +country-people in right of his ancestors, but their power has been long +extinct, and their property is now passed into other hands. The great +O’Donahue, the hero of this ancient race, still survives in the praises +of his countrymen; who set off his virtues with all the colourings of +enthusiasm. They represent him like the Demi-gods of old, a contemner of +danger, a sworn foe to oppression, a passionate admirer of whatever is +great and honourable. The severity of his warlike virtues was tempered, +say they, by a generous hospitality, which embraced a Friend in every +Stranger: The rigour of the Legislator was blended and lost in the +endearing condescension of the Friend; the Prince was the Father of his +country. His court was the seat of joy and festivity: worth took its +place at the board by inherent birthright, grey hairs received their +reverence, distressed innocence had a peculiar plea of admission, for +humanity was paramount, and suspicious policy absolutely unknown. He +was wise too, and the Gods sped his councils, for his subjects were +happy. Fruitful seasons crowned the year with plenty, and undisturbed +tranquillity led the way to enjoyment. ’Twas the reign of Pan in Arcadia: +nor were the shepherds ungrateful; for every valley resounded with his +praises: nor was their patron unpropitious; for death, that extinguished +his earthly lamp, seemed to rekindle his love. And still he reigns +to bless them; and to his unseen protection do they hold themselves +indebted, for every gift of fortune. Often as the hind returns to his +cottage, by the favour of the moon’s pale light, are his eyes blessed +by the figure of the good old King amidst a train of his attendants; +his silver locks floating in the breeze, his limbs invested with a +robe of regal dignity, and superbly mounted, like the twin brothers of +Helena, upon a milk-white courser. Such a vision is considered as the +happiest omen of good; it is reported with ecstasy, and listened to with +transport: there are no unbelievers; even to hesitate were heresy: and +why should we wonder? O’Donahue is the Hercules and Quirinus of this +retired people, their _San Januario_, their _Julium Sidus_. The ancient +tribute of the kings of Munster to this prince, was ten dun horses, ten +coats of mail, and ten ships[4]: This gives us the idea of a powerful +chieftain, possessed of a navy, in these days, truly formidable. The +castle, which has a non-resident governor, now serves as a barrack for +infantry. From the top of it there is a good view of the island, which +appears low and swampy, and rather narrow for its length. It is every +where covered with trees, unless where it has been industriously cleared; +which is the case around the castle, and from thence to the opposite +shores. The winding Peninsula towards Innisfallen is particularly +pleasant: The bays and creeks are much like those at Mucrus, but the +happy situation of the surrounding islands gives them many additional +beauties. + +Innisfallen lies at a small distance to the Westward. It is not so +extensive as Ross, but much more beautiful. Its shape is triangular, and +its sides, from promontory to promontory, are hollowed into bays. The +soil is exceedingly rich, and the verdure perpetual. The cattle which +feed upon it testify to its fertility. Its surface is naturally molded +into a variety of sweeps and banks, which are cleared of the underwood, +and shaded by well-grown trees. Near the north-east promontory are the +ruins of an abbey, and what the boatmen call a banqueting-house. The +abbey is a very paltry building, and was probably rather an occasional +retreat to the good Fathers at Mucrus, than the seat of a distinct +Brotherhood. Such retreats, with all reverence be it spoken, are no less +agreeable to the Anchorite, than Caprea was of old to the Roman Emperor. +Whether it is, that the extremes of vice, and the rigours of virtue, +equally decline observation; or that affected sanctity, and avowed +sensuality, though looking different ways, aim at the same objects; or +that a suspension, and perversion, of the human powers, produce similar +effects; I leave to the curious to determine. Certainly here might Virgil +find the realities of his beautiful descriptions, + + ——_Hic lætis otia fundis,_ + _Speluncæ, vivique lacus; hic frigida Tempe,_ + _Mugitusque boum._— + +and, looking upon the distant mountains, he might still subjoin, + + _Non absunt illic, saltus, ac lustra ferarum._ + +The Hermit I have before mentioned, frequently shut himself up here; +subsisting, as he made the country-people believe, upon rats and other +vermin: but they were deceived as usual; for the bounty of strangers, who +almost daily touched on his island, supplied him with food better suited +to his palate, and his private resources made up their deficiencies. + +The low island to the Westward is inferior to Innisfallen in every thing +but extent. It is called Brown Island, from its colour, and Rabbit +Island, from its being stored with those animals. There are no trees upon +it, and its only covering is fern: It seems to be placed here as a foil +to the others. + +The remaining islands of the western cluster, are of a less size, and +more contiguous to the shore, than those I have spoken of. Lamb’s Island +is the largest of them: It is finely wooded, and is indeed Innisfallen +in miniature. Hern Island lies South East of Lamb’s: it is small, but +wooded. O’Donahue’s Prison, and Mouse Island, complete the cluster; and, +tho’ naked rocks, are not destitute of beauties: they derive their names, +the one, from its resemblance in some views to a house; the other, from +its diminutive size. + +The islands which compose the eastern cluster, Y, though smaller, are +more numerous. Garvillan, or Rough Island, at the east point of Ross; +and Alexander’s, nearer the shore; are very little raised from the +surface of the water. O’Donahue’s Table is a naked cragg, by gradual +dilapidation worn into cavities. The other islands rise boldly to a +point, and are counter parts of the vegetating heights at Mucrus. They +are in general finely fringed with evergreens, which cover their angles +and unevennesses; and are peopled by distinct tribes of birds, that feed +on land in the day, and return at the dusk of evening: The jackdaw, +pigeon, hern, eagle, and osprey, have all their separate habitations. + +Besides these which lie in irregular groupes, there are several single +islets scattered along the shores of Mucrus. Friars Island is contiguous +to the abbey; Oak Island more distant; and another, which produces +junipers, still farther to the South. Cannon Island, a white rock off +Camillan, is remarkably well situated for shewing the power of the +echoes. A gun mounted here, and pointed against Glená, must produce a +striking effect; for Turk, the Eagle’s nest, and the several mountains on +the opposite sides of the river, would serve as so many conveyances to +transmit the undulations to the upper lake, and multiply the repetitions. + +Brickeen, and Dinish, which lie in the mouth of Turk Lake, have been +already described: the only other island in this lake is Illanan-Deoul, +the Devil’s Island: it is lofty, steep, but not wooded. + +The upper lake contains eight islands, which are all worthy of notice. +The Oak Islands, or Rossburkree, separated only in winter, are the most +considerable; and lie in the south-east part of the lake, opposite the +mouth of the river. They are richly covered with timber, but particularly +the eastern, which must yield up its oaks at the same time with the +adjoining Glynn: they are rugged, and uneven, though no where hilly, and +stretch away in length. + +Arbutus Island lies over-against Rossburkree, half encompassed by a shady +bay. Its shape is pyramidical, and its rocky sides are covered with +strawberry-trees. In the latter end of October, when I first visited +Killarney, they were in high beauty: many of their bells and blossoms +still remaining, the fruit on some just forming, and on others nearly +ripe. The same bough often exhibited all these varieties. The ordinary +height of the tree is ten, or twelve feet; but I have seen some of a +happier growth which rose to eighteen, or twenty. The blossom is shaped +like a goblet, and the fruit nearly spherical: it is at first of a pale +yellow, which deepens as it advances to ripeness, and gradually gives +place to a rich scarlet. It equals the largest garden strawberry in size, +but must be eaten with more caution, for those who are unaccustomed to +it, and indulge too freely, are seized with an oppression little less +than lethargic: This I take upon the credit of the country-people, who +use it themselves without reserve, generally accompanying it with a +hearty draught of water, to qualify its juices. The elder Pliny calls +this fruit Unido, because no more than one berry can be eaten at a time +with safety: but Virgil makes it the common food of the first inhabitants +of the earth, following Lucretius, who ranks it with the acorn itself, +and tells us that in the earlier ages it grew to an extraordinary size, +and was found in greater abundance. + + _Glandiferas inter curabant corpora quercus_ + _Plerumque; et quæ nunc, hiberno tempore, cernis_ + _Arbuta, pœniceo, fieri matura, colore,_ + _Plurima, tum tellus, etiam majora, ferebat._ + + LUCRET. Lib. V. + +The arbutus was no less esteemed among the ancients for its pleasant +shade, than its fruit; as may be discovered from the poets, and +particularly from Horace, the admirer, and best judge, of whatever is +elegant in retirement. + +The remaining islands to the number of five, lie together in a cluster, +Z, at the west end of the lake, about half a mile from the shore. They +are beautiful in themselves, and are so grouped as to form a delightful +assemblage: They are all lofty, all wooded; and the bold broken craggs, +and angles, in many places overhanging the lake, seem to forbid the +approach of human footsteps, and consecrate them to their native ospreys +and eagles. But man has notwithstanding intruded; for in the central +one, which is only accessible in one spot, there is a cottage raised +under shelter of the rocks, and trees, which is occupied every season. +The cottage is composed of timber, interwoven with boughs; and is so +matted, and covered in, with leaves, and sedge, as to form a comfortable +habitation. The gentleman to whom it belongs, visits it twice a year, +for the benefit of shooting and fishing: he sometimes continues for two +entire months, as much secluded from the world as an Indian in Ontario, +or Mishigan: He is a man of independent fortune, and, as I have been +told, a batchelor. + +In traversing his little island, I observed it was carpeted over with a +thick covering of decayed leaves, and boughs. I could easily discover +the strata of the several past years, by the different degrees of +putrefaction; till near the bottom, where the dissolution was more +complete, they were cemented into one uniform mass, condensed by the +pressure above, and so swoln by the rains and moisture, as not to be at +all distinguishable. As the decay was more perfect, the colours declined +more perceptibly from the original lighter tints, ending, in the bottom, +in as perfect a black, as I ever saw in any of our bogs. The similitude +of the contexture, as well as the colour, convinced me, that the black +bogs with which Ireland abounds, have been formed by the same process: +a process which is probably forwarded, by the continual moisture, and +rains, in a climate, neither burnt up by scorching heats, nor congealed +by the rigours of cold. + +This inhabited islet is the center of the groupe; to the South-west of it +lie Stag, and Hind; and M’Carthy’s, and the Eagles Rock, to the North and +North-west. + + + + +SECTION III. + + +The objects we have just taken a review of, gave me such pleasure in +the contemplation, that I cannot help wondering at those, who profess +themselves disappointed in them, and affect to decry them: Men should be +cautious in admitting preconceptions. If they expect to see something +altogether great, and stupendous, in a circuit of ten or twelve miles; +the variety of objects, and the narrow limits of the scene, must +necessarily disappoint them: for greatness in natural objects requires +an unbroken uniformity of appearance, and that uniformity reigning over +a wide extended surface. If they look for the aweful and terrible; the +happy temperature of the climate, which cloaths even the rocks and +precipices with a rich covering, and overspreads the rugged face of the +mountains with luxuriance, is a natural bar to it. But if beauties will +content them, in every degree of the scale, from wild magnificence, +downwards; it is strange to me if they go away unsatisfied. Indeed +what can be more beautiful, than the several views of a fine piece of +water, studded with islands, encompassed by mountains, resounding with +waterfalls, and reflecting, on all sides, the umbrageous trees, and +evergreens, that adorn its banks? What can be more surprising than the +fertility of the rocks, where the trees, too ponderous for their feeble +roots, are often bent towards the earth, and flourish thus distorted? +What more curious than different species of shrubs springing from the +same decayed stock; which, no longer able to push forth leaves itself, +serves as a nidus to others? And is there any thing more wonderful than +the power of the echoes; which not only multiplies and reiterates the +most ordinary sounds, but swells them to the pitch of natural thunder? + +To hazard an opinion: The prevailing character of Killarney is Variety; +the second Beauty; Magnificence is subordinate. Here Beauty, by her +magic, and diffusive influence, gives a grace to Variety; whilst +Variety furnishes her benefactress with flattering contrasts: United, +they present the fancy with the most delightful images, of repose, +tranquillity, unstudied order, natural wildness, and rural magnificence. + +Objects, desirable in themselves, derive new beauties from their position +with respect to others; and even such as excite no pleasing emotions +when viewed singly, have often an agreeable effect in combination. But +these relative beauties, as they result from the harmonious proportion of +a number of parts, are entirely lost by an injudicious jumble of them; +so that to see a multiplicity of objects to advantage, it is necessary +to class them with taste, and consider them in those lights, and points +of view, where they neither run into a perplexing confusion, on the one +hand, nor a tiresome sameness, on the other. + +The most magnificent view of the Great Lake and its environs is that +from the Yellow Mountain (1), about two miles to the Northward. The eye +passing over a rich valley, meets the lake in the center, with the Eagles +Nest, and the other mountains which stretch to the upper lake, behind +it: on one side are Glená, Tomé, and M’Gilly Cuddy’s Ricks, which lose +themselves to the Westward; on the other, Turk, Mangerton, Glanflesk, and +the Paps, in the opposite direction; all together forming a range of more +than twenty miles. The waving outline of these mountains is uncommonly +beautiful: the lake is happily placed in the center; and there is a +degree of unstudied regularity in the whole, which, added to the majesty +of the single parts, makes a noble, regular, and striking picture. + +Aghadoe (2) was of old an episcopal seat, and a place of some +consequence: a ruined turret, and the shattered walls of a cathedral, are +the only vestiges of it remaining. It stands on an eminence to the North +of the lake, near the western extremity, and commands a most extensive +prospect of its borders, and islands. Innisfallin, and the western +cluster, appear from hence in perfect beauty: the shaggy sides of Glená, +and Tomé, are finely opposed to the level shores; the distant islands, +referred to their contiguous banks, have the air of so many promontories; +and the stately mountains, Turk and Mangerton, rising from behind the +peninsula of Mucrus, complete one of the most beautiful scenes in nature. + +Dunlow castle (3), the seat of Mr. Crosby, is the best station for +viewing the lake from the West. It stands on a perpendicular cliff over +the river Lune, about a mile from its source, and with the surrounding +scenery is a very fine object. From hence the islands are seen in a +different, but less pleasing situation; the view is bounded to the right +by Tomé, and Glená; and, taking in the sloping bank, and the village of +Killarney, to the left, terminates agreeably on Mucrus, and the high +grounds beyond it: The several doublings, and turns, of the river, that +winds through the rich valley beneath, have a pleasing effect; and for +a contrast, the bleak sides of the Ricks, and the hollow Glynn which +divides them from Tomé, afford one sufficiently glaring. + +The views from the East (4) are very numerous, and beautiful: there is +scarce a break, or height, along the Peninsula, that does not present a +new face of things, or a different arrangement of them. The eminence near +the abbey, the meadows and gardens at Mucrus, and the point of Camillan, +where Turk, Glená, and the Eagles Nest, meet the eye at once, must be +noted by the most careless observers. + +To those who would have a perfect knowledge of the lakes, the top of +Turk (5) is the best station. From thence they appear as distinctly, +as if delineated on canvass; but the minuter beauties are lost by the +height of the mountain, and at best, a prospect from such an overtopping +eminence, is better calculated for the Ichnographist, than the man of +taste and fancy. + +From the side of Mangerton (6), about one fourth of the common ascent, +there is a very commanding prospect of the Great Lake, and the adjacent +country, which shews the objects more in the light of perspective +than that from Turk, at the same time that it preserves the natural +arrangement of the islands, and the sinuosity of the bays. Here the +Peninsula seems to float on the surface of the water like a vast serpent, +and, when illuminated by the sun’s rays, displays its green spiry length, +every where distinct with shining beauties, in a manner at the same time +singular, and pleasing. + +From the top of this mountain, ascended by a tedious path of three miles, +the prospect is wild, commanding, and in a manner unbounded. On one side +lie the lakes, diminished almost in the scale of Shakespear’s fancied +simpler: On the other, at some distance, the noble river of Kenmare, +along which the eye passing for near thirty miles reposes at length on +the swelling bosom of the Atlantic. On all sides save one the country is +mountainous; to the East the mountains trend away in an irregular ridge, +till obscured and lost in the opaque vapours; to the West, and indeed in +every other direction, they are thrown together in as tumultuous, and +wild an assemblage, as if Chaos had been here arrested in his billowy +career, and chained to stability by the supreme _fiat_. The lakes are +seen from hence but partially, and in truth appear only as a drop of +water, to the vast ocean in view: while the mountains which encompass +them, compared with Mangerton itself, hide their diminished heads, +declining all rivality. Taken together, tho’ far inferior even to the +maritime Alps in grandeur, and as much to the mountains in Switzerland, +and the Esterelles in Provence, in fertility, they exhibit an appearance +of nature so uncommon, as must furnish the best informed fancy with new, +and picturesque images. + +And now, traveller, having satisfied thy curiosity, plod thy way +downwards; for the clouds begin to marshal, the vapours to accumulate, +and soon will the scene thou gazest at vanish, and the spot where thou +standest become the seat of darkness; unless thou indeed wouldest inhabit +the clouds, and _sensibly experience_ that palpable Obscure, which thou +hast only _read of_ in Milton. + +The most desirable view of the upper lake is from the East, on the cliffs +of Crom-a-glaun, or Bolinendra (7). The islands, and mountains, are seen +from hence in a very happy arrangement; and there is a certain air of +wildness in the prospect, which borders on the romantic. + +These are some of the views from the banks, and eminences, in the +neighbourhood of the lakes, that appeared to me the most pleasing. Those +from the lake itself, though not so extensive, are no less beautiful; but +they are so numerous, and it is so difficult to convey an adequate idea +of their nice varieties, and differences, that I shall barely hint at one +or two in the most distinguished classes. + +Turk, when viewed from the lake below (8), has some pretensions to +grandeur: it rises to a respectable height, fills the eye with an +unbroken surface of two miles in extent, and is one great and uniform +object: but greatness is a relative term, and that degree of it we speak +of, is rather calculated to give the mind a certain taste of grandeur, +than to satisfy it with a complete idea. + +From the river immediately beneath (9), the rugged appearance of the +Eagles Nest inspires surprise, and awe; but the sportive hand of Nature +has so managed it, that these feelings never border upon that anxious +uneasiness which attends the contemplation of objects properly speaking +terrible. + +From the upper lake between Arbutea, and Rossburkree (10), the western +isles are seen at a due distance, and appear to great advantage. The eye +is confined on each side by two uniform risings, and the back ground +of the picture is occupied by the amphitheatre of mountains which +encompasses the western valley. There is a beauty in the islands, a +wildness in the mountains, and a magnificence in the air of the whole +prospect, which not only amuses the mind, but seems to exalt and expand +it, and awakens such sentiments as one feels from a sublime passage in +Homer or Milton. + +The effect of many of these views is, in my opinion, much heightened by +the hourly revolutions in the face of the heavens. The vast volumes of +clouds, which are rolled together from the Atlantic, and rest on the +summits of the mountains, cloath them with majesty: the different masses +of light and shade, traversing the lakes in succession, as the shifting +bodies above float across them, exhibit all the varieties of night, and +day, almost at the same instant: the mists interposing their dull, yet +transparent coverings to the view, raise new desires of a fuller, and +clearer prospect: and the wandering vapours flitting from cliff to cliff, +as if in search of the clouds from which they have been separated, amuse +the eye with their varieties, and irregular motions. + +After all, this happy spot labours under one disadvantage, and one +too I am the more averse to mention, since so celebrated a writer as +Doctor Johnson has thought it sufficient, in the case of Loch Lomond, to +counterbalance so many natural beauties; and this is no other than the +immense rains; which fall here more abundantly, and that even in the best +seasons for visiting the lake, than in all other parts of the kingdom. +But surely Philosophy will suggest many topics to quiet our complainings +on this head. She will tell us, that to expect perfection in things +sublunary, is to wish where we cannot hope: that the cup of pleasure, +even when presented to us by the pure hand of Benevolence, is never +without some unpalatable ingredients: that where Nature has provided us +with so rich a repast, where she has displayed such enchanting scenery to +the eye, and gratuitously accumulated all this variety of entertainment; +we ought to enjoy her bounties, in the time, manner, and circumstances +she chooses to exhibit them. But if we should further discover, that +the limitations she sets to our pleasures, are necessary to our being +pleased at all; that what we call a disadvantage is the spring and source +of all we admire; that the Hyades are here the handmaids of Flora; for +that without these perpetual effusions of rain we complain of, the rocks +must resign their vegetable inhabitants, the rivers mourn their exhausted +urns, and the cascades no longer resound save in the dull ear of Memory; +that the living lake itself must dwindle into an inconsiderable pool, +and the mountains, stript of their honours, become a dreary waste, the +abode of gloom and barrenness: In this case, surely, our complaints must +be turned to admiration, and our regrets to a grateful acquiescence. +Shall we not here exclaim in the spirit of Homer! + + With gold-embraided locks, the exulting Seasons + Received her from the hands of forming Nature; + And round her silver margin did encircle, + With never-fading forms, umbrageous hills, + Sweet vocal vallies, plains enamel’d o’er + With many a flower. + +[Illustration] + + + + +FOOTNOTES + + +[1] Memoirs of Great Britain and Ireland. + +[2] By the experiment of the barometer, Mangerton was found to be 3060 +feet in perpendicular height. But the sudden variations of the state of +the air, at considerable heights, in a climate so changeable as ours, +seem to require the concurrence of repeated experiments as the basis of +admissible conclusions. + +[3] I have included the several ranges of mountains which form the +shores of this lake, under the name of the most considerable, to avoid +multiplying uncouth terms. What I have called Ghirmeen is known by the +several denominations of Doogery, Ghirmeen, and Derry-Carnagh: On the +opposite side, besides Cahirnee, are Derry-Lishigane, Galloveely, and +Derry-Arde: and to the East, under Crom-a-glaun are included, Bolinendra, +Derry-Dimna, and Derry-Cannihy. + +[4] Vide _Collectanea Hibernica_. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76556 *** diff --git a/76556-h/76556-h.htm b/76556-h/76556-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ccf1a48 --- /dev/null +++ b/76556-h/76556-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,1529 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title> + A description of Killarney | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +a { + text-decoration: none; +} + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; +} + +h2.nobreak { + page-break-before: avoid; +} + +hr.chap { + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + clear: both; + width: 65%; + margin-left: 17.5%; + margin-right: 17.5%; +} + +img.w100 { + width: 100%; +} + +div.chapter { + page-break-before: always; +} + +p { + margin-top: 0.5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; + text-indent: 1em; +} + +.center { + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; +} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.footnotes { + margin-top: 1em; + border: dashed 1px; +} + +.footnote { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; +} + +.footnote .label { + position: absolute; + right: 84%; + text-align: right; +} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none; +} + +.larger { + font-size: 150%; +} + +.noindent { + text-indent: 0; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + right: 4%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; +} + +.poetry-container { + text-align: center; +} + +.poetry { + display: inline-block; + text-align: left; +} + +.poetry .stanza { + margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; +} + +.poetry .verse { + padding-left: 3em; +} + +.poetry .indent0 { + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.poetry .indent10 { + text-indent: 2em; +} + +.right { + text-align: right; +} + +.smaller { + font-size: 80%; +} + +.smcap { + font-variant: small-caps; + font-style: normal; +} + +.titlepage { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 3em; + text-indent: 0; +} + +.x-ebookmaker img { + max-width: 100%; + width: auto; + height: auto; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .poetry { + display: block; + margin-left: 1.5em; +} + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowp100 {width: 100%;} +.illowp90 {width: 90%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp90 {width: 100%;} + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76556 ***</div> + +<p class="center larger"><span class="smaller">A</span><br> +DESCRIPTION<br> +<span class="smaller">OF</span><br> +KILLARNEY.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<p class="titlepage larger"><span class="smaller">A</span><br> +DESCRIPTION<br> +<span class="smaller">OF</span><br> +KILLARNEY.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container titlepage"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent10">——τὴν δὲ χρυσάμπυκες Ὧραι</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Δέξαντ’ ἀσπασίως, περὶ δ’ ἄμβροτα εἵματα ἔσσαν,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Πολλὰ δ’ ὄρη σκίοεντα, καὶ αὐλῶνας κελαδείνους,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Καὶ πεδί’ ἀνθεμόεντα.</div> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse right">ὉΜΗΡΟΥ ὙΜΝΟΙ.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter titlepage illowp100" id="map" style="max-width: 56.25em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/map.jpg" alt=""> +</figure> + +<p class="titlepage">LONDON:<br> +<span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">Printed for J. DODSLEY, in Pall-Mall.</span><br> +M. DCC. LXXVI.</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span></p> + +<h1>A<br> +DESCRIPTION<br> +OF<br> +KILLARNEY.</h1> + +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="SECTION_I">SECTION I.</h2> + +</div> + +<p>To convey to the fancy a lively representation of +substantial visible forms, is deemed rather the +province of that artist who speaks to the eye, than of +the mere verbal describer. Yet so limited are the +powers of the pencil, that by it, the same object can +only be represented, in one moment of its existence, +and under a single point of view; whereas description +ranges in a wider field, commands the several changes +which time, in its silent lapse, draws along with it; +exhibits things in all the different lights, and positions, +in which they can be viewed; discovers new beauties +in effects from unravelling their causes; traces under +the mouldering ruin, stately temples, domes, and palaces, +the monuments of a race of mortals long forgotten; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>takes in an extent of scenery, which the unassisted +eye loses, and the pencil faintly pourtrays; +and throws a mysterious veil over every object, by allusions +and details drawn from the stores of history +and fable:</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">There Arthur lies, and there the Runic bard;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Here fell the hero; these sad hollow anters,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">That grove, did hear his moan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Revolving these advantages of the descriptive +method, over the mere plastic, I wished to prove its +excellence by an example; and meeting with a subject +altogether engaging, I made the following attempt +to exhibit it in its true colours. I inscribe it to the +Academy of Royal Artists, as a poor atonement for +my presumptuous encroachment upon the province +of picture.</p> + +<p>I visited Killarney in the most favourable seasons +for viewing it, when the trees resigning their foliage, +were already marked with all the different colourings +of decay: and when spring, repairing the winter’s ravages, +had again cloathed them with renewed verdure: +but I preferred the autumnal prospect.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span></p> + +<p>The lake is divided into two great branches, or +more properly speaking, there are two distinct lakes, +<a href="#map">A</a>, <a href="#map">B</a>, connected by a winding river.</p> + +<p>The northern lake, called also Lough Lane, from its +receiving a torrent of that name, is by many degrees +the larger. It is divided into two branches, the one +distinguished by the name of the Great Lake, and the +other called Turk Lake, <a href="#map">C</a>, from a mountain that +overhangs it.</p> + +<p>The Great Lake lies East and West, and from Mr. +Herbert’s park, to the mouth of the Lune, measures +about seven English miles. Its breadth, from the +neighbourhood of Reen Point, to the opposite side, is +said to be nearly four.</p> + +<p>Turk Lake is about two miles and a half in length, +and three quarters of a mile in breadth; it stretches +from East to West, with an inclination to the North +and South.</p> + +<p>The southern shores of both these lakes are formed +by high mountains; those of the Great Lake covered +with wood, those of the other without wood. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>land which bounds them to the North, the East, and +the West, is either a flat, or only raised from the +water by gentle swellings. ’Tis generally diversified +by plantations.</p> + +<p>I shall first trace out the several bays, banks, and +islands, which occur in the lakes, proportioning my +detail to the importance of the objects; that passing +from particulars to generals, we may, on some good +grounds, establish a comprehensive character of the +whole; and, with the better relish and judgment, proceed +to consider the more remarkable points of view.</p> + +<p>The angular mountain Glynnau, or Glauná, <a href="#map">D</a>, +stands on the South side of the lake, and has two sides +washed by it; for round this mountain the lake takes +a turn, and so runs to a narrow point, where it receives +the water from the upper or southern lake. +This is a very beautiful mountain, covered for a great +part of the ascent with forest trees, such as oak, ash, +pine, alder, and birch, intermixed with hazel, whitethorn, +yew, holley, and arbutus, all perfectly wild. +The forest trees are not very stately, but the yews, +holleys, and strawberry-trees, are in great perfection; +and blending their different greens, form a fine mixture. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span>The sides of the mountain, though not uniform, +rise with an easy acclivity from the water, and +are here and there broken by gullies, and streamlets, +which is pleasing. The shores are all along indented; +and from the angle particularly, there runs a point +richly wooded, which forms two bays. The principal +inhabitants of this mountain are the red deer, which, +among the sequestered thickets, enjoy an undisturbed +repose; except on some gala day, when O’Donahue +makes a sacrifice to the curiosity of the visitors of the +lake, or his own passion for the chace, which happens +rarely. The music of the dogs and horns, and the +shouts of the hunters, posted in great numbers along +the ridge of the mountain, are re-echoed from the +several parts of it; and produce an effect singularly +pleasing. It is from hence the stag generally precipitates +himself into the lake, when hard pressed by his +pursuers; who studiously reduce him to this necessity, +by hemming him in on all sides; and his spirited efforts +to prolong existence in an element so unfriendly to +him, afford the highest entertainment. This mountain +is the property of Lord Kenmare.</p> + +<p>Toomish, or Tomé, <a href="#map">E</a>, stands to the westward of +Glynnau, from which it is separated by a torrent, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>called, in the expressive phrase of the natives, Screech +Stream. It completes the Southern boundary of the +lake, and in its situation, and appearance, much resembles +Glynnau. The finest cascade in the neighbourhood +of Killarney, falls from this mountain; +which, retaining the name of its ancient possessor, is +called O’Sullivan’s Cascade. While the rains prevail it +is amply supplied with water, and exhibits a very +beautiful picture. It falls from three great stages, of +nearly equal heights, disposed in such a manner, that +the course of the stream which supplies it, is hid from +the spectator. The water is so agitated in its course +down the mountain, that from the instant it breaks +upon the eye, it is one entire sheet of foam; and +dashing from stage to stage, enlivens every thing around +it, by the reflection of the scattered rays which fall +upon it; serving at once to illuminate, and contrast, +the shady green trees and shrubs which overhang it. +The only spot from which it can be seen to advantage, +is from a rock in the channel below; from thence the +stages seem to diminish from bottom to top, from +twenty four or five feet, to twenty, and from twenty +to fifteen or sixteen. The whole scene abounds with +the most picturesque beauties, but the minuteness of +the objects, and that air of regularity which is diffused +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>over the whole, strikes it out of the class of grandeur +and sublimity. At some distance from the cascade, +there are two or three rude cottages, inhabited by a +set of hardy mountaineers, who probably subsist by +the chace. They generally come down to traffick +with strangers, bringing with them nuts, and wild +berries; and sometimes cuttings of yew, thorn, and +oak, for walking sticks. The only bounties of Heaven +they seem to enjoy, are health, and a fine prospect; +contentment, if they possess it, is with them +an heroic virtue. This mountain belongs to Mr. +Herbert of Mucrus.</p> + +<p>Towards the West, the lake washes a very rich +and improveable country. The part of it which extends +from Tomé, to Dunlow castle, is called O’Sullivan’s +Country, <a href="#map">F</a>; but is now the property of Mr. +Herbert. It is no where marked with very striking +features; it rises in a swelling slope from the lake, +and is here and there diversified by trees, particularly +on the banks of the Lune. This river is very considerable +at its source, being the only outlet from the +lake, which receives from the surrounding mountains +several plentiful streams. Winding for a considerable +way through a rich valley, it separates O’Sullivan’s +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span>country from the estate of Macarthy-more; and taking +a westerly course, discharges itself into the ocean at +the distance of seven or eight miles. It is called by +the natives the Leaune.</p> + +<p>The estate of Macarthy-more, <a href="#map">G</a>, compleats the +western boundary of the lake. The house is well +situated, upon a rising ground near the river; but the +improvements are much neglected. In alighting to +take a view of the ancient family seat at Pallice, I +gave the bridle of my horse to a poor boy, who seemed +to look for it with a degree of eagerness. From his +manner of answering some questions I asked him, I +was led to enquire into his situation; and was not a +little surprized to find, that though sunk in the most +abject poverty, he was, nevertheless, a good classical +scholar. He was well acquainted with the best Latin +poets, had read over most of the historians, and was +then busy with the orations of Cicero. I could not +help pitying, at the same time that I admired him, +and lamenting the hard situation which rendered his +knowledge useless; his taste and refinements the sources +of continual disgusts and mortifications; and even +his habits of study pernicious, as they diverted him +from those active employments, which alone could +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>keep him above want and wretchedness. I found, +upon further enquiry, that this classical spirit is very +general among the lower sort of people in Kerry: a +circumstance, which gives an air of probability to the +romantic accounts of a late Memoir-writer⁠<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, concerning +the learning and taste of certain northern shepherds.</p> + +<p>The lands, which lie along the northern shores, <a href="#map">H</a>, +of the lake, have a very uniform character; they are +such as one sees every where, hills and dales tolerably +wooded, and pretty well enclosed; but capable, from +their soil, and above all from their situation, of being +made very enviable scenes. A neat farm house, built +upon a charming neck of land, called by way of eminence +The Point, and possessed by Mr. Mahony, is +better adapted to the spot, and raises more pleasing +ideas, than if it wore a more gaudy assuming air. +The bay, which lies between this neck and Reen Point, +is one of the largest, and most delightful in the lake; +and owes so great a share of its beauty to the islands, +that I can scarce forbear mentioning them. Reen +Point lies nearly in the middle between the extremities +of the lake; and, about an English mile behind it, +stands the village of Killarney, and Lord Kenmare’s +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>house. About half a mile to the East of it, the Flesk, +a very fine stream, which springs from Glanflesk, a +mountain some miles distant, falls into the lake. On +its eastern bank, close upon the shore, is Cahiranane, +the seat of Mr. Arthur Herbert, which has nothing +remarkable to boast of. This side of the lake ends in +a sandy bay, one of the finest I remember to have seen +in it. Lord Kenmare is the principal proprietor.</p> + +<p>We now come to the eastern boundary of the Great +Lake, which is every where rich in wild beauties. +The northern part of it is called Mucrus, <a href="#map">I</a>; as it +stretches southerly, it gets the name of Camillan, <a href="#map">K</a>; +and round the extremity of Camillan is the passage +to Turk Lake. It is impossible to conceive any thing +more charming than the shady bays, creeks, and recesses, +which the lake here forms. The variety of +their shapes, the smoothness of the water, the reflection +of the trees with which the banks are fringed, +and the fertility of the very rocks which form the +points and angles, produce a mixed sensation of surprize +and pleasure, which it is difficult to describe. +There is a stillness and tranquillity in the air of these +retreats, that is uncommonly engaging, and sets the +imagination to work to conjure up forms and build +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>castles in every one of them; the accessary ideas give +new life to the scene, and the mind returns with additional +ardour to contemplate it. In some places you +are presented with an abrupt shore, and rocks of unchisselled +marble hollowed into caverns; in others, the +level beach, covered over with smooth green carpeting, +seems to court your approach by a display of internal +scenery. Here you meet with a promontory, +rising from the lake with the majesty of a colossus; +there stands another, the Parnassus of Silvanus, adorned +with every chosen shrub in which the God delights: +and woe to the dull mortal, that hears him not, as he +passes, rustle among the thickets; for lo! even now +he emerges, and dispensing fragrance as he ascends, +looks down with benign complacency upon those +happy regions, for which he has rifled the gardens +of Flora, to rival her once favourite Tempè.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">——<i>Deus, ecce Deus!</i>——</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Mucrus abbey is situated upon an eminence, rising +over the lake, near the northern extremity of this +range. It is in tolerable preservation, and still serves +as a burying-place to the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. +A modern hermit, some years ago, pitched +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>upon it as the place of his retirement. He chose an +open cell, in one of the upper apartments, for his +mansion; and formed a defence for himself against +the inclemencies of the weather, from the shattered +remains of the tombs and coffins. His vow was not +rigidly strict; for he sometimes mixed with the world. +He was communicative enough on some subjects, and, +as I have heard, tolerably well informed. But at +length he sullied the lustre of his character, by indulging +in the sordid unmanly vice of private drinking, +oftentimes to intoxication; till, finding the veneration +he was held in daily diminish, he abandoned +a scene where he could no longer appear with credit. +He was an Englishman; and, when he left Killarney, +proposed going to the rock of Lisbon. There is certainly +no place better adapted to a recluse than this, +especially if he possesses any degree of enthusiasm, as +there is none which can compensate the loss of social +enjoyments by such a variety of contemplative ones. +The greatest curiosity of the abbey is a yew planted in +the center of the building. Its trunk is between +seven and eight feet in circumference, and its boughs +form a compleat covering to the cloister, which is a +square of twelve yards. My Cicerone, pointing to a +wound in the bark of it, told me with a very grave +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>face, that the wretch, who had the hardiness to inflict +it, paid the full price of his sacrilege; for that a +numbness instantly seized the guilty arm, spread gradually +over his whole frame, and in a few minutes +dispatched him. The abbey is too much shut up by +trees; it might be so managed, by a delicate hand, as +to become a fine object of view, without being entirely +dragged from its retreat, and exposed to open +day. An objection of the same kind lies against the +situation of Mr. Herbert’s house, which, in the midst +of the most desirable objects, enjoys a very limited +prospect of the lake, and appears to no advantage itself. +The gardens are not dressed with care; and +would deserve little notice, were it not for the extraordinary +ledges of rocks which run through them. +These have not the least covering of earth to defend +them, and yet rival the most luxuriant spots in their +produce. They are cloathed from one end to the +other with shrubs and trees, which seem to draw their +juices from the very marble itself, as the crannies and +pores, from which they issue, are so scantily provided +with mold, that it is difficult to conceive it sufficient +for their nourishment. It is wonderful how pliably +they accommodate themselves to the several windings +and crevices of the stone, and how artfully their roots +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>are disposed for the reception of every drop of moisture; +and their great variety, some of them the most +tender, delicate shrubs our climate admits of, still +adds to the surprize. The service-tree grows here +spontaneously; the vine flourishes; the common fruits +are the produce of every cliff; the arbutus seems indigenous; +the lilack, rose, lauristinus, and cytisus, +require no other culture than that of the pruning +knife; every neglected spot in this wilderness of +sweets is enamelled with flowers, and fragrant herbs, +and plants loaded with blossoms, or berries.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Dum vagor aspectu, oculosque per omnia duco,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Calcabam, nec opinus, opes.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class="noindent">I observed, almost universally, in the trees springing +from these rocks, that the part of the trunk contained +within the stone was much smaller than the external, +sometimes by several inches in the diameter;—a proof +of fertility this, which renders all others superfluous.</p> + +<p>From the house at Mucrus to the extreme point of +Camillan, there runs a winding road of near two +miles in length, very judiciously calculated to unfold +the interior beauties of the Peninsula: (for it is a Peninsula, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>and as one side encloses the Great Lake to the +East, the other forms the northern boundary of Turk +Lake.) Here there is a vast number of those rocks and +craggs, vegetating from every pore, differing in shape +and situation, and thrown without order into irregular +groupes, which afford new landscapes as you advance, +and every instant present different combinations and +figures. They generally lie at a considerable distance +from each other, and are separated by low marshy +swamps, which produce nothing but heath, and the +common aquatic shrubs; by which means they have +much the appearance of islands. And here I cannot +help indulging a conjecture, that the islands in the +lake itself have been, at some distant period, situated +as these are: and that, by the stoppage or interruption +of the great outlet from the lake, or an additional +influx into it, the body of water has been so increased +as to insulate the higher grounds; and that +the continuance of the cause has rendered the separation +permanent. It is certain this conjecture appears +more probable, if we consider the near resemblance of +many of the islands to the rocks I have just now described, +and their proximity to the level shores on the +north and east sides of the lake, where the water is +comparatively shallow. It might be further confirmed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span>by similar instances; and particularly by the instance +of Lough Neagh, in the province of Ulster; which has +for many years past gained on the land, as is clearly +evinced by a late writer. But as I cannot support it +by testimony or observation, the only sure grounds to +build upon, I abandon it as a bare probability.</p> + +<p>Nearer the point of Camillan the surface is less +varied by detached heights, and risings, and more +uniformly wooded. It is of a very stoney nature, and +almost every where covered with a thick moss, +which is here ornamental. As the lakes lie on both +sides, with their islands and mountains, how greatly +might the charms of this spot be enhanced, by introducing +them judiciously in different views and situations? +which, by the simple management of leading a +path from one side to the other, now skirting the bays, +and now ascending the heights, might easily be accomplished. +And how much might the views from the +lakes be improved, by here and there opening up the +bays and recesses, and allowing the eye to penetrate +into the more remote scenes, as if by stolen glances? +To mutilate nature is inhuman, to aim at excelling her +is madness: It is the province of art to withdraw the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>veil that conceals her beauties, and discover them in +all their wildness.</p> + +<p>The side of the Peninsula, which forms the northern +boundary of Turk Lake, so nearly resembles the other, +that what Ovid says of the sisters of Phaëton is literally +true of them: they have the same general air and +complexion, though they differ in particular features. +The whole Peninsula is the property of Mr. Herbert +of Mucrus, whose estates in this country are very +considerable: his ancestors were among the first English +settlers; and tho’ he generally resides in England, +his tenantry seem to enjoy more happiness, than ordinarily +falls to the share of the deserted Irish peasant; +who, between intrinsic indolence and external exaction, +penurious in the midst of plenty, wanders upon +the surface of the most fertile country in the world, a +melancholy instance of complicated misery.</p> + +<p>The eastern shore of Turk Lake, <a href="#map">L</a>, is distinguished +by no particular beauty I know of: it is formed by +the bleak side of Mangerton, and separated from Turk, +the mountain which confines the lake to the South, by +the Devil’s Stream. This stream has its source near +the top of Mangerton, which is esteemed the highest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span>ground in Ireland⁠<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>. Its source is a vast cavity in the +mountain, fed by the discharge of the clouds which +are daily bursting over it. The natives stile it the Pit +of Hell, but it is more commonly called the Devil’s +Punch-bowl. It sometimes sends down very impetuous +torrents, which sufficiently mark their course by +their ravages: to this it probably owes its original +name.</p> + +<p>Turk, <a href="#map">M</a>, though not so lofty as Mangerton, is a +much nobler object. Its outline is free and graceful, +rising to a point by easy stages, and sinking towards +the plain in such a manner as to form an irregular +cone. The side towards the lake is quite inaccessible, +and to the eye below has a wild air of grandeur, occasioned, +as I conceive, by the uniformity of its appearance, +which presents no gaudy colourings to divert +the mind from contemplating the single idea of its extent. +It is entirely without trees, which as it contributes +to the above effect, and affords a striking contrast +to the shady banks of Mucrus, is hardly to be regretted. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>The river Lane rises near the summit, and +is seen throughout its course, which is a very direct +one: it gives its name to the whole lake, anciently +called Loch Lein.</p> + +<p>Between the Peninsula, and the low land which +stretches from Turk, lie the islands Brickeen and +Dinish, which separate the two northern lakes. They +are divided from the shores by very narrow straits: +that between Brickeen, and the Peninsula, which is +the widest, not exceeding twenty yards. Both these +islands are richly wooded, and abound with luxuriant +arbutus; they serve as resting places to the deer, +which descend from Glená, at the dawn of morning, +to feed in the plains and meadows of Mucrus; and +here too they often shelter themselves, when roused +by the hunters, and driven from their more secret +haunts in the mountains.</p> + +<p>Dinish extends to the very mouth of the river which +flows from the upper or southern lake; and, by the +opposition of its sides, distributes the stream into two +unequal channels. The river issues from the northern +side of the lake, and with all, its windings and angles, +measures four miles. The eastern bank, <a href="#map">N</a>, presents +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>nothing interesting; it is low, craggy, and infertile, +scarcely producing a shrub or tree. The high grounds, +at some distance, which extend from Turk to the +southward, though by no means picturesque, are a +relief to the prospect. The opposite bank is skirted +by the shaggy sides of Glená, that runs into the country +in this direction for a considerable length: its appearance +here is not so varied, as from the lower lake, +but is still pleasing; it is terminated to the South by +the Eagle’s Nest.</p> + +<p>This remarkable rock, <a href="#map">O</a>, presents its principal front +to the North, and the river, making an abrupt turn, +passes directly under it. It has that bold freedom in +its general outline which sets at naught description, +and demands the pencil of Salvator himself to express +justly. From the ruggedness of its impending cliffs, +which almost overshadow the river, it would be truly +aweful, if the trees and shrubs which cover them, did +not counteract the effect, by diffusing an air of festivity +over the whole, which strips it of its terrors. The +parts of it, considered singly, are beautiful; their +strange combination produces surprise. The effect of +a musket or peterara discharged against this mountain, +exceeds every thing I had conceived possible. The report +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>is encreased to a degree almost incredible, and returning +upon the ear in redoubled peals, now from the +neighbouring, now from the more distant mountains, +imperceptibly dying away, and again reviving, till it +finally expires in hollow, interrupted murmurs, bears +a nearer resemblance to natural bursts of thunder, than +any thing artificial. The mountain is inhabited by +Eagles, which build their nests on the craggs, and inaccessible +heights, and are continually hovering round +it: like true birds of Jove, they seem to have chosen +it for their abode, from the allurements of its pealing +echoes.</p> + +<p>The mountain which runs from the Eagle’s Nest, +to the upper lake, is two miles in length. It is one +continued ridge without break, or rising; and from its +figure, and inclination, is with singular propriety called +the Great Range, <a href="#map">P</a>. Near the upper end of it is the +seat of the musical echo. The spot where it resides is +a hollow bosom in the mountain, covered on all sides +with trees. The sounds are reverberated from the +several parts of it, and are softened upon every repetition, +so as to terminate in the sweetest cadences. A +single horn produces a concert, and is multiplied into as +many instruments as there are echoes; these mellowing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>in their tones, from the original notes of the leading +instrument, to the dying falls of the last repetitions, +and mingling together in a wild, but harmonious confusion, +afford the finest specimen of natural music in +the world. The power of the echoes might easily be +ascertained by breathing a single note on any instrument, +or by the voice; and afterwards, it would be +an easy matter, at any period in a passage of music, to +determine the number and quality of the sounds, +which are employed in expressing it.</p> + +<p>The southern lake, which is entered by a narrow +pass called Colman’s Eye, stretches East and West for +above a league; but does not any where exceed three +quarters of a mile in breadth. It has a different air +from the others, being encompassed on all sides by +high grounds and mountains.</p> + +<p>Ghirmeen, <a href="#map">Q</a>, one of the most considerable of these, +forms a right angle with the Great Range, and bounds +the lake to the North. It is partially covered with +trees, and on the whole has rather a pleasing, than a +bleak appearance. Arbutus Bay is the finest it affords; +it derives its name, as well as a great share of its beauty, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>from an island contiguous to it. The mountain is the +property of Mr. Herbert.</p> + +<p>M’Gilly Cuddy’s Ricks take their rise from Ghirmeen, +and encircling a valley, <a href="#map">R</a>, of pretty large compass +to the West of the lake, form an extensive amphitheatre. +These mountains are very numerous, and, +as if Nature meant to exhaust her varieties, are broken +into the most irregular, whimsical, shapes, imaginable. +They seem to be quite destitute of planting, and indeed +their fertility, at the distance most of them lie, +would contribute little to their beauty. They are +plentifully stocked with grouse, or, in the language of +the natives, the hen of the heath, notwithstanding the +depredations of their joint commoners the eagles. They +furnish the lake with its principal supplies of water, +which tumbling down in a multiplicity of channels, +unites in one stream at bottom, and enriches the valley. +The valley owes nothing to culture, though to all appearance +capable of it: a few wretched cottagers derive +from its borders a penurious subsistance. Its shore +is distinguished by one of those singular rocks already +described; to those who see it at a distance, it has the +appearance of an island; and by a small elevation of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>the water would actually become one. The whole +circuit is now possessed by Mr. Herbert; it formerly +belonged to the ancient family of M’Gilly Cuddy, +whose name it still bears. The mountains are called +Ricks, in allusion to their shape, which approaches +nearer to a cone than any other regular figure.</p> + +<p>The southern boundary of the lake is formed by a +range of high mountains. Cahirnee, <a href="#map">S</a>, which joins +the Ricks, is the largest of them, and belongs to Lord +Shelburne: it is distinguished by a waterfall, but is no +otherwise remarkable. Towards the eastern angle this +range terminates in a sloping bank, which forms one +side of the Glynn of Derry-Cannihy. This Glynn, <a href="#map">T</a>, +gradually contracting as it retires from the lake, loses +itself in another, still more extensive, about a mile +distant. Its sides are covered with very stately timber, +particularly oaks; and it affords a delightful repose to +the eye, fatigued with reiterated mountain prospects. +The Kavoge rolls a considerable stream through the +center, which, tumbling down a rocky channel, where +it forms a variety of lesser falls, makes the woods and +caverns vocal. The Glynn belongs to Lord Kenmare, +who is now preparing to disrobe it of its trees, as well +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>as the adjoining mountain Derry-Dimna. Whether +the Genius of the lakes, or some more persuasive Divinity, +will have power to stay his uplifted axe, time +will determine. The determination, with respect to +his Lordship’s taste, will be final.</p> + +<p>May no future traveller have occasion to quote here +the mournful lines of Virgil!</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Itur in antiquam silvam, stabula alta ferarum.</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Procumbunt piceæ, sonat icta securibus ilex,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Fraxineæque trabes; cuneis et fissile robur</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Scinditur: advolvunt ingentes montibus ornos.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Crom-a-glaun⁠<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>, which belongs to Lord Kenmare +also, confines the lake to the East, <a href="#map">U</a>. It extends from +Derry-Cannihy to within a mile of Turk, and, though +no where lofty, is one of the largest mountains in the +neighbourhood. Its sides are covered with a luxuriant +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>copse, which reaches down to the water’s edge: and +its modest height, compared with the aspiring cliffs +over-against it, gives it the appearance of a larger hill. +The foot of this mountain is washed for a considerable +length by a narrow confined bay, lying parallel to the +river. This bay has no beauties to boast of; its +western side is bleak and barren, and it is quite destitute +of islands.</p> + +<p>The Purple Mountain, though not immediately +touching upon the lakes, is an object of curiosity not +to be passed over, <a href="#map">W</a>. It rises from behind the Great +Range, in a conical shape, and is strongly characterised +by its deep indigo colour. It abounds with a kind of +heath, found in no other part of the country, which +produces purple berries; but receives its prevailing +tinct from another herb, used by the natives in dying. +This is probably the <i>Lichenoides saxatile foliis pilosis +purpureis</i>, found by Doctor Smith in an adjoining +Barony, though overlooked by him here. It affords +shelter to a bird, so little known in Kerry, that as +yet it has no popular name. This bird, as it was described +to me, is somewhat larger than a grouse; its +breast red, the rest of its plumage a clear shining +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>black, except the wings, and tail, which are interspersed +with white feathers. Whether this be of the +same species with the heath cock, so common in Scotland +under the name of the black game, I know not: +I am sure I have heard, that the heath cock of the +Highlands delights in the purple-berried heath, and +resembles our rara avis in colour.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="SECTION_II">SECTION II.</h2> + +</div> + +<p>I have now given a general sketch of the confines of +the lakes, and their most remarkable bays. The +islands are no less worthy of notice; though, from +their number, situation, and varieties, so difficult to +describe, that I despair of conveying any distinct conception +of them.</p> + +<p>The number of islands in the lower lake exceeds +thirty. They are dispersed, without order, along the +level shores to the East and North; for to the South +and West, there is one unbroken sheet of water. A +few of them lie unconnected, but the greater number +is distributed into two irregular clusters, or archipels, +on the opposite sides of Ross, <a href="#map">X</a>, <a href="#map">Y</a>. This island is +the largest in the lake: it lies to the East of Reen +Point, about a mile from the village of Killarney. +A very narrow gut, scarcely navigable for boats, +separates it from the shore; and over this there is a +bridge thrown, for the conveniency of the castle. The +castle stands on the land side on the island, and was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span>formerly a royal residence; being the seat of the Lords +of the Lake, who assumed the title of Kings. The +family of O’Donahue was the last that bore this +title: its present representative enjoys a degree of respect +from the country-people in right of his ancestors, +but their power has been long extinct, and their property +is now passed into other hands. The great +O’Donahue, the hero of this ancient race, still survives +in the praises of his countrymen; who set off his virtues +with all the colourings of enthusiasm. They represent +him like the Demi-gods of old, a contemner of +danger, a sworn foe to oppression, a passionate admirer +of whatever is great and honourable. The +severity of his warlike virtues was tempered, say they, +by a generous hospitality, which embraced a Friend in +every Stranger: The rigour of the Legislator was +blended and lost in the endearing condescension of the +Friend; the Prince was the Father of his country. His +court was the seat of joy and festivity: worth took its +place at the board by inherent birthright, grey hairs +received their reverence, distressed innocence had a +peculiar plea of admission, for humanity was paramount, +and suspicious policy absolutely unknown. +He was wise too, and the Gods sped his councils, for +his subjects were happy. Fruitful seasons crowned +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>the year with plenty, and undisturbed tranquillity led +the way to enjoyment. ’Twas the reign of Pan in +Arcadia: nor were the shepherds ungrateful; for every +valley resounded with his praises: nor was their patron +unpropitious; for death, that extinguished his earthly +lamp, seemed to rekindle his love. And still he reigns +to bless them; and to his unseen protection do they +hold themselves indebted, for every gift of fortune. +Often as the hind returns to his cottage, by the favour +of the moon’s pale light, are his eyes blessed by the +figure of the good old King amidst a train of his attendants; +his silver locks floating in the breeze, his +limbs invested with a robe of regal dignity, and superbly +mounted, like the twin brothers of Helena, +upon a milk-white courser. Such a vision is considered +as the happiest omen of good; it is reported +with ecstasy, and listened to with transport: there are +no unbelievers; even to hesitate were heresy: and why +should we wonder? O’Donahue is the Hercules and +Quirinus of this retired people, their <i>San Januario</i>, +their <i>Julium Sidus</i>. The ancient tribute of the kings +of Munster to this prince, was ten dun horses, ten +coats of mail, and ten ships⁠<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>: This gives us the idea +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>of a powerful chieftain, possessed of a navy, in these +days, truly formidable. The castle, which has a non-resident +governor, now serves as a barrack for infantry. +From the top of it there is a good view of the island, +which appears low and swampy, and rather narrow for +its length. It is every where covered with trees, unless +where it has been industriously cleared; which is +the case around the castle, and from thence to the +opposite shores. The winding Peninsula towards Innisfallen +is particularly pleasant: The bays and creeks +are much like those at Mucrus, but the happy situation +of the surrounding islands gives them many additional +beauties.</p> + +<p>Innisfallen lies at a small distance to the Westward. +It is not so extensive as Ross, but much more beautiful. +Its shape is triangular, and its sides, from promontory +to promontory, are hollowed into bays. The soil is +exceedingly rich, and the verdure perpetual. The +cattle which feed upon it testify to its fertility. Its +surface is naturally molded into a variety of sweeps +and banks, which are cleared of the underwood, and +shaded by well-grown trees. Near the north-east +promontory are the ruins of an abbey, and what +the boatmen call a banqueting-house. The abbey is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>a very paltry building, and was probably rather an +occasional retreat to the good Fathers at Mucrus, than +the seat of a distinct Brotherhood. Such retreats, with +all reverence be it spoken, are no less agreeable to the +Anchorite, than Caprea was of old to the Roman +Emperor. Whether it is, that the extremes of vice, +and the rigours of virtue, equally decline observation; +or that affected sanctity, and avowed sensuality, though +looking different ways, aim at the same objects; or +that a suspension, and perversion, of the human powers, +produce similar effects; I leave to the curious to +determine. Certainly here might Virgil find the realities +of his beautiful descriptions,</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent10">——<i>Hic lætis otia fundis,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Speluncæ, vivique lacus; hic frigida Tempe,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Mugitusque boum.</i>—</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class="noindent">and, looking upon the distant mountains, he might still +subjoin,</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Non absunt illic, saltus, ac lustra ferarum.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>The Hermit I have before mentioned, frequently +shut himself up here; subsisting, as he made the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>country-people believe, upon rats and other vermin: +but they were deceived as usual; for the bounty of +strangers, who almost daily touched on his island, +supplied him with food better suited to his palate, and +his private resources made up their deficiencies.</p> + +<p>The low island to the Westward is inferior to Innisfallen +in every thing but extent. It is called Brown +Island, from its colour, and Rabbit Island, from its +being stored with those animals. There are no trees +upon it, and its only covering is fern: It seems to be +placed here as a foil to the others.</p> + +<p>The remaining islands of the western cluster, are of +a less size, and more contiguous to the shore, than +those I have spoken of. Lamb’s Island is the largest of +them: It is finely wooded, and is indeed Innisfallen +in miniature. Hern Island lies South East of Lamb’s: +it is small, but wooded. O’Donahue’s Prison, and +Mouse Island, complete the cluster; and, tho’ naked +rocks, are not destitute of beauties: they derive their +names, the one, from its resemblance in some views +to a house; the other, from its diminutive size.</p> + +<p>The islands which compose the eastern cluster, <a href="#map">Y</a>, +though smaller, are more numerous. Garvillan, or +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>Rough Island, at the east point of Ross; and Alexander’s, +nearer the shore; are very little raised from +the surface of the water. O’Donahue’s Table is a naked +cragg, by gradual dilapidation worn into cavities. +The other islands rise boldly to a point, and are counter +parts of the vegetating heights at Mucrus. They +are in general finely fringed with evergreens, which +cover their angles and unevennesses; and are peopled +by distinct tribes of birds, that feed on land in the +day, and return at the dusk of evening: The jackdaw, +pigeon, hern, eagle, and osprey, have all their +separate habitations.</p> + +<p>Besides these which lie in irregular groupes, there +are several single islets scattered along the shores of +Mucrus. Friars Island is contiguous to the abbey; +Oak Island more distant; and another, which produces +junipers, still farther to the South. Cannon Island, a +white rock off Camillan, is remarkably well situated +for shewing the power of the echoes. A gun mounted +here, and pointed against Glená, must produce a +striking effect; for Turk, the Eagle’s nest, and the +several mountains on the opposite sides of the river, +would serve as so many conveyances to transmit the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>undulations to the upper lake, and multiply the repetitions.</p> + +<p>Brickeen, and Dinish, which lie in the mouth of +Turk Lake, have been already described: the only +other island in this lake is Illanan-Deoul, the Devil’s +Island: it is lofty, steep, but not wooded.</p> + +<p>The upper lake contains eight islands, which are +all worthy of notice. The Oak Islands, or Rossburkree, +separated only in winter, are the most considerable; +and lie in the south-east part of the lake, opposite +the mouth of the river. They are richly covered +with timber, but particularly the eastern, which must +yield up its oaks at the same time with the adjoining +Glynn: they are rugged, and uneven, though no +where hilly, and stretch away in length.</p> + +<p>Arbutus Island lies over-against Rossburkree, half +encompassed by a shady bay. Its shape is pyramidical, +and its rocky sides are covered with strawberry-trees. +In the latter end of October, when I first visited Killarney, +they were in high beauty: many of their bells +and blossoms still remaining, the fruit on some just +forming, and on others nearly ripe. The same bough +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span>often exhibited all these varieties. The ordinary height +of the tree is ten, or twelve feet; but I have seen +some of a happier growth which rose to eighteen, or +twenty. The blossom is shaped like a goblet, and the +fruit nearly spherical: it is at first of a pale yellow, +which deepens as it advances to ripeness, and gradually +gives place to a rich scarlet. It equals the largest garden +strawberry in size, but must be eaten with more +caution, for those who are unaccustomed to it, and +indulge too freely, are seized with an oppression little +less than lethargic: This I take upon the credit of the +country-people, who use it themselves without reserve, +generally accompanying it with a hearty draught of +water, to qualify its juices. The elder Pliny calls this +fruit Unido, because no more than one berry can be +eaten at a time with safety: but Virgil makes it the +common food of the first inhabitants of the earth, following +Lucretius, who ranks it with the acorn itself, +and tells us that in the earlier ages it grew to an extraordinary +size, and was found in greater abundance.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Glandiferas inter curabant corpora quercus</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Plerumque; et quæ nunc, hiberno tempore, cernis</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Arbuta, pœniceo, fieri matura, colore,</i></div> + <div class="verse indent0"><i>Plurima, tum tellus, etiam majora, ferebat.</i></div> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse right"><span class="smcap">Lucret.</span> Lib. V.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span></p> + +<p>The arbutus was no less esteemed among the ancients +for its pleasant shade, than its fruit; as may be +discovered from the poets, and particularly from Horace, +the admirer, and best judge, of whatever is elegant +in retirement.</p> + +<p>The remaining islands to the number of five, lie +together in a cluster, <a href="#map">Z</a>, at the west end of the lake, +about half a mile from the shore. They are beautiful +in themselves, and are so grouped as to form a delightful +assemblage: They are all lofty, all wooded; +and the bold broken craggs, and angles, in many places +overhanging the lake, seem to forbid the approach of +human footsteps, and consecrate them to their native +ospreys and eagles. But man has notwithstanding intruded; +for in the central one, which is only accessible +in one spot, there is a cottage raised under shelter +of the rocks, and trees, which is occupied every season. +The cottage is composed of timber, interwoven +with boughs; and is so matted, and covered in, with +leaves, and sedge, as to form a comfortable habitation. +The gentleman to whom it belongs, visits it twice a +year, for the benefit of shooting and fishing: he sometimes +continues for two entire months, as much secluded +from the world as an Indian in Ontario, or +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>Mishigan: He is a man of independent fortune, and, +as I have been told, a batchelor.</p> + +<p>In traversing his little island, I observed it was carpeted +over with a thick covering of decayed leaves, +and boughs. I could easily discover the strata of the +several past years, by the different degrees of putrefaction; +till near the bottom, where the dissolution was +more complete, they were cemented into one uniform +mass, condensed by the pressure above, and so swoln +by the rains and moisture, as not to be at all distinguishable. +As the decay was more perfect, the colours +declined more perceptibly from the original lighter +tints, ending, in the bottom, in as perfect a black, as I +ever saw in any of our bogs. The similitude of the +contexture, as well as the colour, convinced me, that +the black bogs with which Ireland abounds, have been +formed by the same process: a process which is probably +forwarded, by the continual moisture, and rains, +in a climate, neither burnt up by scorching heats, +nor congealed by the rigours of cold.</p> + +<p>This inhabited islet is the center of the groupe; +to the South-west of it lie Stag, and Hind; and +M’Carthy’s, and the Eagles Rock, to the North and +North-west.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="SECTION_III">SECTION III.</h2> + +</div> + +<p>The objects we have just taken a review of, gave +me such pleasure in the contemplation, that I +cannot help wondering at those, who profess themselves +disappointed in them, and affect to decry them: +Men should be cautious in admitting preconceptions. +If they expect to see something altogether great, and +stupendous, in a circuit of ten or twelve miles; the variety +of objects, and the narrow limits of the scene, must +necessarily disappoint them: for greatness in natural +objects requires an unbroken uniformity of appearance, +and that uniformity reigning over a wide extended +surface. If they look for the aweful and terrible; the +happy temperature of the climate, which cloaths even +the rocks and precipices with a rich covering, and +overspreads the rugged face of the mountains with +luxuriance, is a natural bar to it. But if beauties will +content them, in every degree of the scale, from wild +magnificence, downwards; it is strange to me if they +go away unsatisfied. Indeed what can be more beautiful, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>than the several views of a fine piece of water, +studded with islands, encompassed by mountains, resounding +with waterfalls, and reflecting, on all sides, +the umbrageous trees, and evergreens, that adorn its +banks? What can be more surprising than the fertility +of the rocks, where the trees, too ponderous for their +feeble roots, are often bent towards the earth, and +flourish thus distorted? What more curious than different +species of shrubs springing from the same decayed +stock; which, no longer able to push forth +leaves itself, serves as a nidus to others? And is there +any thing more wonderful than the power of the echoes; +which not only multiplies and reiterates the +most ordinary sounds, but swells them to the pitch of +natural thunder?</p> + +<p>To hazard an opinion: The prevailing character of +Killarney is Variety; the second Beauty; Magnificence +is subordinate. Here Beauty, by her magic, and diffusive +influence, gives a grace to Variety; whilst +Variety furnishes her benefactress with flattering contrasts: +United, they present the fancy with the most +delightful images, of repose, tranquillity, unstudied +order, natural wildness, and rural magnificence.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span></p> + +<p>Objects, desirable in themselves, derive new beauties +from their position with respect to others; and even +such as excite no pleasing emotions when viewed +singly, have often an agreeable effect in combination. +But these relative beauties, as they result from the +harmonious proportion of a number of parts, are entirely +lost by an injudicious jumble of them; so that +to see a multiplicity of objects to advantage, it is necessary +to class them with taste, and consider them in +those lights, and points of view, where they neither +run into a perplexing confusion, on the one hand, nor +a tiresome sameness, on the other.</p> + +<p>The most magnificent view of the Great Lake and its +environs is that from the Yellow Mountain (<a href="#map">1</a>), about +two miles to the Northward. The eye passing over a +rich valley, meets the lake in the center, with the +Eagles Nest, and the other mountains which stretch +to the upper lake, behind it: on one side are Glená, +Tomé, and M’Gilly Cuddy’s Ricks, which lose themselves +to the Westward; on the other, Turk, Mangerton, +Glanflesk, and the Paps, in the opposite direction; +all together forming a range of more than twenty +miles. The waving outline of these mountains is uncommonly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>beautiful: the lake is happily placed in the +center; and there is a degree of unstudied regularity +in the whole, which, added to the majesty of the single +parts, makes a noble, regular, and striking picture.</p> + +<p>Aghadoe (<a href="#map">2</a>) was of old an episcopal seat, and a +place of some consequence: a ruined turret, and the +shattered walls of a cathedral, are the only vestiges of +it remaining. It stands on an eminence to the North +of the lake, near the western extremity, and commands +a most extensive prospect of its borders, and +islands. Innisfallin, and the western cluster, appear +from hence in perfect beauty: the shaggy sides of +Glená, and Tomé, are finely opposed to the level +shores; the distant islands, referred to their contiguous +banks, have the air of so many promontories; and the +stately mountains, Turk and Mangerton, rising from +behind the peninsula of Mucrus, complete one of the +most beautiful scenes in nature.</p> + +<p>Dunlow castle (<a href="#map">3</a>), the seat of Mr. Crosby, is the +best station for viewing the lake from the West. It +stands on a perpendicular cliff over the river Lune, +about a mile from its source, and with the surrounding +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>scenery is a very fine object. From hence the +islands are seen in a different, but less pleasing situation; +the view is bounded to the right by Tomé, and +Glená; and, taking in the sloping bank, and the village +of Killarney, to the left, terminates agreeably on +Mucrus, and the high grounds beyond it: The several +doublings, and turns, of the river, that winds through +the rich valley beneath, have a pleasing effect; and +for a contrast, the bleak sides of the Ricks, and the +hollow Glynn which divides them from Tomé, afford +one sufficiently glaring.</p> + +<p>The views from the East (<a href="#map">4</a>) are very numerous, +and beautiful: there is scarce a break, or height, +along the Peninsula, that does not present a new face +of things, or a different arrangement of them. The +eminence near the abbey, the meadows and gardens at +Mucrus, and the point of Camillan, where Turk, +Glená, and the Eagles Nest, meet the eye at once, +must be noted by the most careless observers.</p> + +<p>To those who would have a perfect knowledge of +the lakes, the top of Turk (<a href="#map">5</a>) is the best station. +From thence they appear as distinctly, as if delineated +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span>on canvass; but the minuter beauties are lost by the +height of the mountain, and at best, a prospect from +such an overtopping eminence, is better calculated +for the Ichnographist, than the man of taste and +fancy.</p> + +<p>From the side of Mangerton (<a href="#map">6</a>), about one fourth +of the common ascent, there is a very commanding +prospect of the Great Lake, and the adjacent country, +which shews the objects more in the light of perspective +than that from Turk, at the same time that it +preserves the natural arrangement of the islands, and +the sinuosity of the bays. Here the Peninsula seems +to float on the surface of the water like a vast serpent, +and, when illuminated by the sun’s rays, displays its +green spiry length, every where distinct with shining +beauties, in a manner at the same time singular, and +pleasing.</p> + +<p>From the top of this mountain, ascended by a tedious +path of three miles, the prospect is wild, commanding, +and in a manner unbounded. On one side lie the lakes, +diminished almost in the scale of Shakespear’s fancied +simpler: On the other, at some distance, the noble +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span>river of Kenmare, along which the eye passing for +near thirty miles reposes at length on the swelling +bosom of the Atlantic. On all sides save one the +country is mountainous; to the East the mountains +trend away in an irregular ridge, till obscured and +lost in the opaque vapours; to the West, and indeed +in every other direction, they are thrown together in +as tumultuous, and wild an assemblage, as if Chaos +had been here arrested in his billowy career, and +chained to stability by the supreme <i>fiat</i>. The lakes +are seen from hence but partially, and in truth appear +only as a drop of water, to the vast ocean in view: +while the mountains which encompass them, compared +with Mangerton itself, hide their diminished +heads, declining all rivality. Taken together, tho’ far +inferior even to the maritime Alps in grandeur, and as +much to the mountains in Switzerland, and the Esterelles +in Provence, in fertility, they exhibit an appearance +of nature so uncommon, as must furnish the best +informed fancy with new, and picturesque images.</p> + +<p>And now, traveller, having satisfied thy curiosity, +plod thy way downwards; for the clouds begin to +marshal, the vapours to accumulate, and soon will the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span>scene thou gazest at vanish, and the spot where thou +standest become the seat of darkness; unless thou indeed +wouldest inhabit the clouds, and <i>sensibly experience</i> +that palpable Obscure, which thou hast only <i>read of</i> +in Milton.</p> + +<p>The most desirable view of the upper lake is from +the East, on the cliffs of Crom-a-glaun, or Bolinendra +(<a href="#map">7</a>). The islands, and mountains, are seen from +hence in a very happy arrangement; and there is a +certain air of wildness in the prospect, which borders +on the romantic.</p> + +<p>These are some of the views from the banks, and +eminences, in the neighbourhood of the lakes, that +appeared to me the most pleasing. Those from the +lake itself, though not so extensive, are no less beautiful; +but they are so numerous, and it is so difficult +to convey an adequate idea of their nice varieties, and +differences, that I shall barely hint at one or two in +the most distinguished classes.</p> + +<p>Turk, when viewed from the lake below (<a href="#map">8</a>), has +some pretensions to grandeur: it rises to a respectable +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>height, fills the eye with an unbroken surface of two +miles in extent, and is one great and uniform object: +but greatness is a relative term, and that degree of it +we speak of, is rather calculated to give the mind a +certain taste of grandeur, than to satisfy it with a +complete idea.</p> + +<p>From the river immediately beneath (<a href="#map">9</a>), the rugged +appearance of the Eagles Nest inspires surprise, and +awe; but the sportive hand of Nature has so managed +it, that these feelings never border upon that anxious +uneasiness which attends the contemplation of objects +properly speaking terrible.</p> + +<p>From the upper lake between Arbutea, and Rossburkree +(<a href="#map">10</a>), the western isles are seen at a due distance, +and appear to great advantage. The eye is confined +on each side by two uniform risings, and the +back ground of the picture is occupied by the amphitheatre +of mountains which encompasses the western +valley. There is a beauty in the islands, a wildness +in the mountains, and a magnificence in the air of +the whole prospect, which not only amuses the mind, +but seems to exalt and expand it, and awakens such +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>sentiments as one feels from a sublime passage in Homer +or Milton.</p> + +<p>The effect of many of these views is, in my opinion, +much heightened by the hourly revolutions in the +face of the heavens. The vast volumes of clouds, +which are rolled together from the Atlantic, and rest +on the summits of the mountains, cloath them with +majesty: the different masses of light and shade, traversing +the lakes in succession, as the shifting bodies +above float across them, exhibit all the varieties of +night, and day, almost at the same instant: the mists +interposing their dull, yet transparent coverings to the +view, raise new desires of a fuller, and clearer prospect: +and the wandering vapours flitting from cliff to +cliff, as if in search of the clouds from which they +have been separated, amuse the eye with their varieties, +and irregular motions.</p> + +<p>After all, this happy spot labours under one disadvantage, +and one too I am the more averse to mention, +since so celebrated a writer as Doctor Johnson +has thought it sufficient, in the case of Loch Lomond, +to counterbalance so many natural beauties; and this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>is no other than the immense rains; which fall here +more abundantly, and that even in the best seasons +for visiting the lake, than in all other parts of +the kingdom. But surely Philosophy will suggest +many topics to quiet our complainings on this head. +She will tell us, that to expect perfection in things +sublunary, is to wish where we cannot hope: that +the cup of pleasure, even when presented to us by the +pure hand of Benevolence, is never without some unpalatable +ingredients: that where Nature has provided +us with so rich a repast, where she has displayed such +enchanting scenery to the eye, and gratuitously accumulated +all this variety of entertainment; we ought +to enjoy her bounties, in the time, manner, and circumstances +she chooses to exhibit them. But if we +should further discover, that the limitations she sets +to our pleasures, are necessary to our being pleased at +all; that what we call a disadvantage is the spring +and source of all we admire; that the Hyades are +here the handmaids of Flora; for that without these +perpetual effusions of rain we complain of, the rocks +must resign their vegetable inhabitants, the rivers +mourn their exhausted urns, and the cascades no +longer resound save in the dull ear of Memory; that the +living lake itself must dwindle into an inconsiderable +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>pool, and the mountains, stript of their honours, +become a dreary waste, the abode of gloom and barrenness: +In this case, surely, our complaints must +be turned to admiration, and our regrets to a grateful +acquiescence. Shall we not here exclaim in the spirit +of Homer!</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">With gold-embraided locks, the exulting Seasons</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Received her from the hands of forming Nature;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And round her silver margin did encircle,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">With never-fading forms, umbrageous hills,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Sweet vocal vallies, plains enamel’d o’er</div> + <div class="verse indent0">With many a flower.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp90" id="illus" style="max-width: 37.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus.jpg" alt=""> +</figure> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="footnotes"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES</h2> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Memoirs of Great Britain and Ireland.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> By the experiment of the barometer, Mangerton was found to be 3060 +feet in perpendicular height. But the sudden variations of the state of the +air, at considerable heights, in a climate so changeable as ours, seem to require +the concurrence of repeated experiments as the basis of admissible +conclusions.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> I have included the several ranges of mountains which form the shores +of this lake, under the name of the most considerable, to avoid multiplying +uncouth terms. What I have called Ghirmeen is known by the several denominations +of Doogery, Ghirmeen, and Derry-Carnagh: On the opposite +side, besides Cahirnee, are Derry-Lishigane, Galloveely, and Derry-Arde: +and to the East, under Crom-a-glaun are included, Bolinendra, Derry-Dimna, +and Derry-Cannihy.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Vide <i>Collectanea Hibernica</i>.</p> + +</div> + +</div> + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 76556 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/76556-h/images/cover.jpg b/76556-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..449589d --- /dev/null +++ b/76556-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/76556-h/images/illus.jpg b/76556-h/images/illus.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d578da1 --- /dev/null +++ b/76556-h/images/illus.jpg diff --git a/76556-h/images/map.jpg b/76556-h/images/map.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..68eebac --- /dev/null +++ b/76556-h/images/map.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. 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