initial commit of ebook 756HEADmain

1 files changed, 4115 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/756.txt b/756.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2469793
--- /dev/null
+++ b/756.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,4115 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Arizona Sketches
+
+Author: Joseph A. Munk
+
+Posting Date: August 3, 2008 [EBook #756]
+Release Date: December, 1996
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARIZONA SKETCHES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Dianne Bean.  HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ARIZONA SKETCHES
+
+
+by
+
+Joseph A. Munk
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER
+
+    I.  A ROMANTIC LAND
+   II.  MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA
+  III.  THE OPEN RANGE
+   IV.  RANCH LIFE
+    V.  THE ROUND-UP
+   VI.  RANCH HAPPENINGS
+  VII.  A MODEL RANCH
+ VIII.  SOME DESERT PLANTS
+   IX.  HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS
+    X.  CANON ECHOES
+   XI.  THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN
+  XII.  THE CLIFF DWELLERS
+ XIII.  THE MOQUI INDIANS
+  XIV.  A FINE CLIMATE
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+A ROMANTIC LAND
+
+A stranger on first entering Arizona is impressed with the newness and
+wildness that surrounds him.  Indeed, the change is so great that it
+seems like going to sleep and waking up in a new world.  Everything
+that he sees is different from the familiar objects of his home, and he
+is filled with wonder and amazement at the many curious things that are
+brought to his notice.  Judging the country by what is common back
+east, the average man is disappointed and prejudiced against what he
+sees; but, estimated on its merits, it is found to be a land of many
+attractions and great possibilities.
+
+A hasty trip through the country by rail gives no adequate idea of its
+intrinsic value, as such a limited view only affords a superficial
+glimpse of what should be leisurely and carefully examined to be
+properly understood or appreciated.  At the first glance it presents
+the appearance of a desert, but to one who is acquainted with its
+peculiarities it is by no means desolate.  It furnishes a strong
+contrast to the rolling woodlands of the far east, and to the boundless
+prairies of the middle west; and, though it may never develop on the
+plan of the older states, like California, it has an individuality and
+charm of its own; and its endowment of natural wealth and beauty
+requires no borrowing from neighbors to give it character or success.
+
+It has grand scenery, a salubrious climate, productive soil, rich
+mineral deposits and rare archaeological remains.  It also has a
+diversified fauna and flora.  The peccary, Gila monster, tarantula,
+centipede, scorpion and horned toad are specimens of its strange animal
+life; and, the numerous species of cacti, yucca, maguey, palo verde and
+mistletoe are samples of its curious vegetation.  It is, indeed, the
+scientist's Paradise where much valuable material can be found to
+enrich almost every branch of natural science.
+
+Hitherto its growth has been greatly retarded by its remote position in
+Uncle Sam's domain; but, with the comparatively recent advent of the
+railroad, the influx of capital and population, and the suppression of
+the once dreaded and troublesome Apache, a new life has been awakened
+that is destined to redeem the country from its ancient lethargy and
+make it a land of promise to many home seekers and settlers.
+
+When the Spaniards under Coronado first entered the land more than
+three hundred and fifty years ago in search of the seven cities of
+Cibola, they found upon the desert sufficient evidence of an extinct
+race to prove that the land was once densely populated by an
+agricultural and prosperous people.  When or how the inhabitants
+disappeared is unknown and may never be known.  It is even in doubt who
+they were, but, presumably, they were of the Aztec or Toltec race; or,
+perhaps, of some civilization even more remote.
+
+The Pueblo Indians are supposed to be their descendants, but, if so,
+they were, when first found, as ignorant of their ancestors as they
+were of their discoverers.  When questioned as to the past they could
+give no intelligent answer as to their antecedents, but claimed that
+what the white man saw was the work of Montezuma.  All that is known of
+this ancient people is what the ruins show, as they left no written
+record or even tradition of their life, unless it be some inscriptions
+consisting of various hieroglyphics and pictographs that are found
+painted upon the rocks, which undoubtedly have a meaning, but for lack
+of interpretation remain a sealed book.  The deep mystery in which they
+are shrouded makes their history all the more interesting and gives
+unlimited scope for speculation.
+
+Arizona is a land that is full of history as well as mystery and
+invites investigation.  It has a fascination that every one feels who
+crosses its border.  Paradoxical as it may seem it is both the oldest
+and newest portion of our country--the oldest in ancient occupation and
+civilization and the newest in modern progress.  In natural wonders it
+boasts of the Grand Canon of Arizona, the painted desert, petrified
+forest, meteorite mountain, natural bridge, Montezuma's well and many
+other marvels of nature.  There are also ruins galore, the cave and
+cliff dwellings, crumbled pueblos, extensive acequias, painted rocks,
+the casa grande and old Spanish missions.  Anyone who is in search of
+the old and curious, need not go to foreign lands, but can find right
+here at home in Arizona and the southwest, a greater number and variety
+of curiosities than can be found in the same space anywhere else upon
+the globe.
+
+Arizona is a land of strong contrasts and constant surprises, where
+unusual conditions prevail and the unexpected frequently happens.
+
+From the high Colorado plateau of northern Arizona the land slopes
+toward the southwest to the Gulf of California.  Across this long slope
+of several hundred miles in width, numerous mountain ranges stretch
+from the northwest to the southeast.  Through the middle of the
+Territory from east to west, flows the Gila river to its confluence
+with the Colorado.  This stream marks the dividing line between the
+mountains which descend from the north and those that extend south,
+which increase in altitude and extent until they culminate in the grand
+Sierra Madres of Mexico.
+
+The traveler in passing through the country never gets entirely out of
+the sight of mountains.  They rise up all about him and bound the
+horizon near and far in every direction.  In riding along he always
+seems to be approaching some distant mountain barrier that ever recedes
+before him as he advances.  He is never clear of the encircling
+mountains for, as often as he passes out of one enclosure through a gap
+in the mountains, he finds himself hemmed in again by a new one.  The
+peculiarity of always being in the midst of mountains and yet never
+completely surrounded, is due to an arrangement of dovetailing or
+overlapping in their formation.  His winding way leads him across
+barren wastes, through fertile valleys, among rolling hills and into
+sheltered parks, which combine an endless variety of attractive scenery.
+
+An Arizona landscape, though mostly of a desert type, is yet full of
+interest to the lover of nature.  It presents a strangely fascinating
+view, that once seen, will never be forgotten.  It stirs a rapture in
+the soul that only nature can inspire.
+
+Looking out from some commanding eminence, a wide spreading and
+diversified landscape is presented to view.  Though hard and rugged,
+the picture, as seen at a distance, looks soft and smooth and its
+details of form and color make an absorbing study.
+
+The eye is quick to note the different hues that appear in the field of
+vision and readily selects five predominating colors, namely, gray,
+green, brown, purple and blue, which mingle harmoniously in various
+combinations with almost every other color that is known.  The most
+brilliant lights, sombre shadows, exquisite tints and delicate tones
+are seen which, if put on canvas and judged by the ordinary, would be
+pronounced exaggerated and impossible by those unfamiliar with the
+original.
+
+The prevailing color is gray, made by the dry grass and sandy soil, and
+extends in every direction to the limit of vision.  The gramma grass of
+the and region grows quickly and turns gray instead of brown, as
+grasses usually do when they mature.  It gives to the landscape a
+subdued and quiet color, which is pleasing to the eye and makes the
+ideal background in a picture.
+
+Into this warp of gray is woven a woof of green, spreading in irregular
+patches in all directions.  It is made by the chaparral, which is
+composed of a variety of desert plants that are native to the soil and
+can live on very little water.  It consists of live oak, pinion,
+mesquite, desert willow, greasewood, sage brush, palmilla, maguey,
+yucca and cacti and is mostly evergreen.
+
+The admixture of gray and green prevails throughout the year except
+during the summer rainy season, when, if the rains are abundant, the
+gray disappears almost entirely, and the young grass springs up as by
+magic, covering the whole country with a carpet of living green.   In
+the midst of the billowy grass myriads of wild flowers bloom, and stand
+single or shoulder to shoulder in masses of solid color by the acre.
+
+Upon the far mountains is seen the sombre brown in the bare rocks.  The
+whole region was at one time violently disturbed by seismic force and
+the glow of its quenched fires has even yet scarcely faded away.  Large
+masses of igneous rocks and broad streams of vitrified lava bear mute
+testimony of the change, when, by some mighty subterranean force, the
+tumultuous sea was rolled back from its pristine bed and, in its stead,
+lofty mountains lifted their bald beads above the surrounding
+desolation, and stand to-day as they have stood in massive grandeur
+ever since the ancient days of their upheaval.  Rugged and bleak they
+tower high, or take the form of pillar, spire and dome, in some
+seemingly well-constructed edifice erected by the hand of man.  But the
+mountains are not all barren.  Vast areas of fertile soil flank the
+bare rocks where vegetation has taken root, and large fields of forage
+and extensive forests of oak and pine add value and beauty to the land.
+
+The atmosphere is a striking feature of the country that is as pleasing
+to the eye as it is invigorating to the body.  Over all the landscape
+hangs a veil of soft, purple haze that is bewitching.  It gives to the
+scene a mysterious, subtle something that is exquisite and holds the
+senses in a magic spell of enchantment.
+
+Distance also is deceptive and cannot be estimated as under other
+skies.  The far-off mountains are brought near and made to glow in a
+halo of mellow light.  Manifold ocular illusions appear in the mirage
+and deceive the uninitiated.  An indefinable dreamy something steals
+over the senses and enthralls the soul.
+
+Arching heaven's high dome is a sky of intense blue that looks so
+wonderfully clear and deep that even far-famed Italy cannot surpass it.
+The nights are invariably clear and the moon and stars appear unusually
+bright.  The air is so pure that the stars seem to be advanced in
+magnitude and can be seen quite low down upon the horizon.
+
+The changing lights that flash in the sky transform both the sunrise
+and sunset into marvels of beauty.  In the mellow afterglow of the
+sunset, on the western sky, stream long banners of light, and fleecy
+clouds of gold melt away and fade in the twilight.
+
+At midday in the hazy distance, moving slowly down the valley, can be
+seen spiral columns of dust that resemble pillars of smoke.  They
+ascend perpendicularly, incline like Pisa's leaning tower, or are beat
+at various angles, but always retaining the columnar form.  They rise
+to great heights and vanish in space.  These spectral forms are caused
+by small local whirlwinds when the air is otherwise calm, and are,
+apparently, without purpose, unless they are intended merely to amuse
+the casual observer.
+
+A cloudy day is rare and does not necessarily signify rain.  Usually
+the clouds are of the cumulus variety and roll leisurely by in billowy
+masses.  Being in a droughty land the clouds always attract attention
+viewed either from an artistic or utilitarian standpoint.  When out on
+parade they float lazily across the sky, casting their moving shadows
+below.  The figures resemble a mammoth pattern of crazy patchwork in a
+state of evolution spread out for inspection.
+
+The impression that is made while looking out upon such a scene is that
+of deep silence.  Everything is hushed and still; but, by listening
+attentively, the number of faint sounds that reach the ear in an
+undertone is surprising.  The soft soughing of the wind in the trees;
+the gentle rustle of the grass as it is swayed by the passing breeze;
+the musical ripple of water as it gurgles from the spring; the piping
+of the quail as it calls to its mate; the twitter of little birds
+flitting from bush to bough; the chirp of the cricket and drone of the
+beetle are among the sounds that are heard and fall soothingly upon the
+ear.
+
+The trees growing upon the hillside bear a striking resemblance to an
+old orchard and are a reminder of home where in childhood the hand
+delighted to pluck luscious fruit from drooping boughs.  A walk among
+the trees makes it easy to imagine that you are in some such familiar
+but neglected haunt, and instinctively you look about expecting to see
+the old house that was once called home and hear the welcome voice and
+footfall of cherished memory.  It is no little disappointment to be
+roused from such a reverie to find the resemblance only a delusion and
+the spot deserted.  Forsaken as it has been for many years by the
+native savage Indians and prowling wild beasts, the land waits in
+silence and patience the coming of the husbandman.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA
+
+I recall with vivid distinctness my first trip to Arizona and
+introduction to ranch life in the spring of 1884.  The experience made
+a deep impression and has led me to repeat the visit many times since
+then, with increased interest and pleasure.
+
+During the previous year my brother located a cattle ranch for us in
+Railroad Pass in southeastern Arizona.  The gap is one of a series of
+natural depressions in a succession of mountain chains on the
+thirty-second parallel route, all the way from New Orleans to San
+Francisco over a distance of nearly twenty-five hundred miles.  The
+Southern Pacific Railroad is built upon this route and has the easiest
+grade of any transcontinental line.
+
+Railroad Pass is a wide break between two mountain ranges and is a fine
+grazing section.  It is handsomely bounded and presents a magnificent
+view.  To the north are the Pinaleno mountains, with towering Mt.
+Graham in their midst, that are nearly eleven thousand feet high and
+lie dark in the shadows of their dense pine forests.  Far to the south
+rise the rugged Chiricahuas, and nearby stands bald Dos Cabezas, whose
+giant double head of granite can be seen as a conspicuous landmark over
+a wide scope of country.  The distance across the Pass as the crow
+flies is, perhaps, fifty miles.  Beyond these peaks other mountains
+rise in majestic grandeur and bound the horizon in every direction.
+
+At the time that the ranch was located the Pass country was considered
+uninhabitable because of the scarcity of water and the presence of
+hostile Indians.  No permanent spring nor stream of water was known to
+exist in that whole region, but fine gramma grass grew everywhere.  Its
+suitability as a cattle range was recognized and caused it to be
+thoroughly prospected for water, which resulted in the discovery of
+several hidden springs.  All of the springs found, but one, were
+insignificant and either soon went dry or fluctuated with the seasons;
+but the big spring, known as Pinaleno, was worth finding, and flows a
+constant stream of pure, soft water that fills a four-inch iron pipe.
+
+When the spring was discovered not a drop of water was visible upon the
+surface, and a patch of willows was the only indication of concealed
+moisture.  By sinking a shallow well only a few feet deep among the
+willows, water was struck as it flowed through coarse gravel over a
+buried ledge of rock that forced the water up nearly to the surface
+only to sink again in the sand without being seen.  A ditch was dug to
+the well from below and an iron pipe laid in the trench, through which
+the water is conducted into a reservoir that supplies the water troughs.
+
+Again, when the ranch was opened the Indians were bad in the vicinity
+and had been actively hostile for some time.  The ranch is on a part of
+the old Chiricahua reservation that was once the home and hunting
+grounds of the tribe of Chiricahua Apaches, the most bold and warlike
+of all the southwest Indians.  Cochise was their greatest warrior, but
+he was only one among many able Apache chieftains.  He was at one time
+the friend of the white man, but treachery aroused his hatred and
+caused him to seek revenge on every white man that crossed his path.
+
+His favorite haunt was Apache Pass, a convenient spot that was
+favorable for concealment, where he lay in wait for weary travelers who
+passed that way in search of water and a pleasant camp ground.  If
+attacked by a superior force, as sometimes happened, he invariably
+retreated across the Sulphur Spring valley into his stronghold in the
+Dragoon mountains.
+
+Because of the many atrocities that were committed by the Indians,
+white men were afraid to go into that country to settle.  Even as late
+as in the early eighties when that prince of rascals, the wily
+Geronimo, made his bloody raids through southern Arizona, the men who
+did venture in and located ranch and mining claims, lived in daily
+peril of their lives which, in not a few instances, were paid as a
+forfeit to their daring.
+
+The Butterfield stage and all other overland travel to California by
+the southern route before the railroads were built, went through Apache
+Pass.  Although it was the worst Indian infested section in the
+southwest, travelers chose that dangerous route in preference to any
+other for the sake of the water that they knew could always be found
+there.
+
+The reputation of Apache Pass, finally became so notoriously bad
+because of the many murders committed that the Government, late in the
+sixties, built and garrisoned Ft. Bowie for the protection of travelers
+and settlers.  The troops stationed at the post endured much hardship
+and fought many bloody battles before the Indians were conquered.  Many
+soldiers were killed and buried in a little graveyard near the fort.
+When the fort was abandoned a few years ago, their bodies were
+disinterred and removed to the National cemetery at Washington.
+
+Railroad Pass is naturally a better wagon road than Apache Pass, but is
+without water.  It was named by Lieut. J. G. Parke in 1855 while
+engaged in surveying for the Pacific Railroad, because of its easy
+grade and facility for railroad construction.
+
+I timed my visit to correspond with the arrival at Bowie station on the
+Southern Pacific Railroad, of a consignment of ranch goods that had
+been shipped from St. Louis.  I was met at the depot by the ranch
+force, who immediately proceeded to initiate me as a tenderfoot.  I
+inquired of one of the cowboys how far it was to a near-by mountain.
+He gave a quien sabe shrug of the shoulder and answered me in Yankee
+fashion by asking how far I thought it was.  Estimating the distance as
+in a prairie country I replied, "Oh, about a mile."  He laughed and
+said that the mountain was fully five miles distant by actual
+measurement.  I had unwittingly taken my first lesson in plainscraft
+and prudently refrained thereafter from making another sure guess.
+
+The deception was due to the rarefied atmosphere, which is peculiar to
+the arid region.  It not only deceives the eye as to distance, but also
+as to motion.  If the eye is steadily fixed upon some distant inanimate
+object, it seems to move in the tremulous light as if possessed of
+life, and it is not always easy to be convinced to the contrary.
+However, by putting the object under inspection in line with some
+further object, it can readily be determined whether the object is
+animate or still by its remaining on or moving off the line.
+
+Another peculiarity of the country is that objects do not always seem
+to stand square with the world.  In approaching a mountain and moving
+on an up grade the plane of incline is suddenly reversed and gives the
+appearance and sensation of going downhill.  In some inexplicable
+manner sense and reason seem to conflict and the discovery of the
+disturbed relation of things is startling.  You know very well that the
+mountain ahead is above you, but it has the appearance of standing
+below you in a hollow; and the water in the brook at your feet, which
+runs down the mountain into the valley, seems to be running uphill.  By
+turning squarely about and looking backwards, the misplaced objects
+become righted, and produces much the same sensation that a man feels
+who is lost and suddenly finds himself again.
+
+We immediately prepared to drive out to the ranch, which was ten miles
+distant and reached by a road that skirted the Dos Cabezas mountains.
+The new wagon was set up and put in running order and lightly loaded
+with supplies.  All of the preliminaries being completed, the horses
+were harnessed and hooked to the wagon.  The driver mounted his seat,
+drew rein and cracked his whip, but we didn't go.  The horses were only
+accustomed to the saddle and knew nothing about pulling in harness.
+Sam was a condemned cavalry horse and Box was a native bronco, and
+being hitched to a wagon was a new experience to both.  The start was
+unpropitious, but, acting on the old adage that "necessity is the
+mother of invention," which truth is nowhere better exemplified than on
+the frontier where conveniences are few and the most must be made of
+everything, after some delay and considerable maneuvering we finally
+got started.
+
+The road for some distance out was level and smooth and our progress
+satisfactory.  As we drove leisurely along I improved the opportunity
+to look about and see the sights.  It was a perfect day in April and
+there never was a brighter sky nor balmier air than beamed and breathed
+upon us.  The air was soft and tremulous with a magical light that
+produced startling phantasmagoric effects.
+
+It was my first sight of a mirage and it naturally excited my
+curiosity.  It seemed as if a forest had suddenly sprung up in the San
+Simon valley where just before had appeared only bare ground.  With
+every change in the angle of vision as we journeyed on, there occurred
+a corresponding change in the scene before us that produced a charming
+kaleidoscopic effect.  The rough mountain was transformed into a
+symmetrical city and the dry valley into a lake of sparkling
+water,--all seeming to be the work of magic in some fairyland of
+enchantment.
+
+In a ledge of granite rock by the wayside were cut a number of round
+holes which the Indians had made and used as mills for grinding their
+corn and seeds into meal.  Nearby also, were some mescal pits used for
+baking the agave, a native plant that is in great demand as food by the
+Indians.  The spot was evidently an old rendezvous where the marauding
+Apaches were accustomed to meet in council to plan their bloody raids,
+and to feast on mescal and pinole in honor of some successful foray or
+victory over an enemy.
+
+We next crossed several well-worn Indian trails which the Apaches had
+made by many years of travel to and fro between their rancherias in the
+Mogollon mountains and Mexico.  The sight of these trails brought us
+back to real life and a conscious sense of danger, for were we not in
+an enemy's country and in the midst of hostile Indians?  Nearly every
+mile of road traveled had been at some time in the past the scene of a
+bloody tragedy enacted by a savage foe.  Even at that very time the
+Apaches were out on the warpath murdering people, but fortunately we
+did not meet them and escaped unmolested.
+
+The road now crossed a low hill, which was the signal for more trouble.
+The team started bravely up the incline, but soon stopped and then
+balked and all urging with whip and voice failed to make any
+impression.  After several ineffectual attempts to proceed it was
+decided not to waste any more time in futile efforts.  The horses were
+unhitched and the wagon partly unloaded, when all hands by a united
+pull and push succeeded in getting the wagon up the hill.  After
+reloading no difficulty was experienced in making a fresh start on a
+down grade, but a little farther on a second and larger hill was
+encountered, when the failure to scale its summit was even greater than
+the first.   No amount of coaxing or urging budged the horses an inch.
+They simply were stubborn and would not pull.
+
+Night was approaching and camp was yet some distance ahead.  The driver
+suggested that the best thing to do under the circumstances was for the
+rest of us to take the led horses and ride on to camp, while he would
+remain with the wagon and, if necessary, camp out all night.  We
+reluctantly took his advice, mounted our horses and finished our
+journey in the twilight.  Aaron, who was housekeeper at the ranch, gave
+us a hearty welcome and invited us to sit down to a bountiful supper
+which he had prepared in anticipation of our coming.  Feeling weary
+after our ride we retired early and were soon sound asleep.  The only
+thing that disturbed our slumbers during the night was a coyote concert
+which, as a "concord of sweet sounds was a dismal failure" but as a
+medley of discordant sounds was a decided success.  The bark of the
+coyote is particularly shrill and sharp and a single coyote when in
+full cry sounds like a chorus of howling curs.
+
+We were all up and out early the next morning to witness the birth of a
+new day.  The sunrise was glorious, and bright colors in many hues
+flashed across the sky.  The valley echoed with the cheerful notes of
+the mocking bird and the soft air was filled with the fragrance of wild
+flowers.  The scene was grandly inspiring and sent a thrill of pleasure
+through every nerve.
+
+While thus absorbed by the beauties of nature we heard an halloo, and
+looking down the road in the direction of the driver's bivouac we saw
+him coming swinging his hat in the air and driving at a rapid pace that
+soon brought him to the ranch house.  In answer to our inquiries as to
+how he had spent the night he reported that the horses stood quietly in
+their tracks all night long, while he slept comfortably in the wagon.
+In the morning the horses started without undue urging as if tired of
+inaction and glad to go in the direction of provender.  They were
+completely broken by their fast and after that gave no further trouble.
+
+After a stay of four weeks, learning something of the ways of ranch
+life and experiencing not a few exciting adventures, I returned home
+feeling well pleased with my first trip to the ranch.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE OPEN RANGE
+
+Arizona is in the arid belt and well adapted to the range cattle
+industry.  Its mild climate and limited water supply make it the ideal
+range country.  Indeed, to the single factor of its limited water
+supply, perhaps, more than anything else is its value due as an open
+range.  If water was abundant there could be no open range as then the
+land would all be farmed and fenced.
+
+Arizona is sometimes spoken of as belonging to the plains, but it is
+not a prairie country.  Mountains are everywhere, but are separated in
+many places by wide valleys.  The mountains not only make fine scenery,
+but are natural boundaries for the ranches and give shade and shelter
+to the cattle.
+
+There are no severe storms nor blizzard swept plains where cattle drift
+and perish from cold.  The weather is never extremely cold, the mercury
+seldom falling to more than a few degrees below freezing, except upon
+the high plateaus and mountains of northern Arizona.  If it freezes
+during the night the frost usually disappears the next day; and, if
+snow flies, it lies only on the mountains, but melts as fast as it
+falls in the valleys.  There are but few cloudy or stormy days in the
+year and bright, warm sunshine generally prevails.  There has never
+been any loss of cattle from cold, but many have died from drought as a
+result of overstocking the range.
+
+The pastures consist of valley, mesa and mountain lands which, in a
+normal season, are covered by a variety of nutritious grasses.  Of all
+the native forage plants the gramma grass is the most abundant and
+best.  It grows only in the summer rainy season when, if the rains are
+copious, the gray desert is converted into a vast green meadow.
+
+The annual rainfall is comparatively light and insufficient to grow and
+mature with certainty any of the cereal crops.  When the summer rains
+begin to fall the rancher is "jubilant" and the "old cow smiles."  Rain
+means even more to the ranchman than it does to the farmer.  In an
+agricultural country it is expected that rain or snow will fall during
+every month of the year, but on the range rain is expected only in
+certain months and, if it fails to fall then, it means failure, in a
+measure, for the entire year.
+
+Rain is very uncertain in Arizona.  July and August are the rain months
+during which time the gramma grass grows.  Unless the rain falls daily
+after it begins it does but little good, as frequent showers are
+required to keep the grass growing after it once starts.  A settled
+rain of one or more days' duration is of rare occurrence.  During the
+rainy season and, in fact, at all times, the mornings are usually
+clear.  In the forenoon the clouds begin to gather and pile up in dark
+billowy masses that end in showers during the afternoon and evening.
+But not every rain cloud brings rain.  Clouds of this character often
+look very threatening, but all their display of thunder and lightning
+is only bluff and bluster and ends in a fizzle with no rain.  After
+such a demonstration the clouds either bring wind and a disagreeable
+dust storm, or, if a little rain starts to fall, the air is so dry that
+it evaporates in mid air, and none of it ever reaches the earth.  In
+this fashion the clouds often threaten to do great things, only to
+break their promise; and the anxious rancher stands and gazes at the
+sky with longing eyes, only to be disappointed again and again.
+
+As a rule water is scarce.  A long procession of cloudless days merge
+into weeks of dry weather; and the weeks glide into months during which
+time the brazen sky refuses to yield one drop of moisture either of dew
+or rain to the parched and thirsty earth.  Even the rainy season is not
+altogether reliable, but varies considerably one year with another in
+the time of its appearance and continuance.
+
+The soil is sandy and porous and readily absorbs water, except where
+the earth is tramped and packed hard by the cattle. One peculiarity of
+the country as found marked upon the maps, and that exists in fact, is
+the diminution and often complete disappearance of a stream after it
+leaves the mountains.  If not wholly lost upon entering the valley the
+water soon sinks out of sight in the sand and disappears and reappears
+at irregular intervals, until it loses itself entirely in some
+underground channel and is seen no more.
+
+Many a pleasant valley in the range country is made desolate by being
+destitute of any surface spring or running brook, or water that can be
+found at any depth.  Occasionally a hidden fountain is struck by
+digging, but it is only by the merest chance.  Wells have been dug to
+great depths in perfectly dry ground in an eager search for water
+without finding it, and such an experience is usually equivalent to a
+failure and the making of a useless bill of expense.
+
+A never-failing spring of good water in sufficient quantity to supply
+the needs of a ranch in the range country is of rare occurrence,
+considering the large territory to be supplied.  Only here and there at
+long intervals is such a spring found, and it is always a desirable and
+valuable property.  It makes an oasis in the desert that is an
+agreeable change from the surrounding barrenness, and furnishes its
+owner, if properly utilized, a comfortable subsistence for himself and
+herds.  His fields produce without fail and the increase of his flocks
+and herds is sure.
+
+The isolated rancher who is well located is independent.  He is in no
+danger of being crowded by his neighbors nor his range becoming over
+stocked with stray cattle.  His water right gives him undisputed
+control of the adjacent range, even though he does not own all the
+land, which is an unwritten law of the range and respected by all
+cattlemen.
+
+Because of the scarcity of water the range country is sparsely settled
+and always will be until more water is provided by artificial means for
+irrigation.  Even then a large portion of the land will be worthless
+for any other purpose than grazing, and stock-growing on the open range
+in Arizona will continue to be a staple industry in the future as it
+has been in the past.
+
+The range is practically all occupied and, in many places, is already
+over stocked.  Where more cattle are run on a range than its grass and
+water can support there is bound to be some loss.  In stocking a range
+an estimate should be made of its carrying capacity in a bad year
+rather than in a good one, as no range can safely carry more cattle
+than it can support in the poorest year; like a chain, it is no
+stronger than its weakest link.
+
+A good range is sometimes destroyed by the prairie dog.  Wherever he
+establishes a colony the grass soon disappears.  He burrows in the
+ground and a group of such holes is called a dog town.  Like the
+jack-rabbit he can live without water and is thus able to keep his hold
+on the desert.  The only way to get rid of him is to kill him, which is
+usually done by the wholesale with poison.  His flesh is fine eating,
+which the Navajo knows if the white man does not.  The Navajo considers
+him a dainty morsel which is particularly relished by the sick.  If a
+patient can afford the price, he can usually procure a prairie dog in
+exchange for two sheep.
+
+The Navajo is an adept at capturing this little animal.  The hunter
+places a small looking-glass near the hole and, in concealment near by,
+he patiently awaits developments.  When the prairie dog comes out of
+his hole to take an airing he immediately sees his reflection in the
+glass and takes it for an intruder. In an instant he is ready for a
+fight and pounces upon his supposed enemy to kill or drive him away.
+While the prairie dog is thus engaged wrestling with his shadow or
+reflection the hunter shoots him at close range with his bow and
+arrow--never with a gun, for if wounded by a bullet he is sure to drop
+into his hole and is lost, but the arrow transfixes his body and
+prevents him from getting away.  He has been hunted so much in the
+Navajo country that he has become very scarce.[1]
+
+Much of the ranch country in southern Arizona is destitute of trees,
+and shade, therefore, is scarce.   Upon the high mountains and plateaus
+of northern Arizona there are great forests of pine and plenty of
+shade.  But few cattle range there in comparison to the large numbers
+that graze on the lower levels further south.  What little tree growth
+there is on the desert is stunted and supplies but scant shade.  In the
+canons some large cottonwood, sycamore and walnut trees can be found;
+upon the foot hills the live oak and still higher up the mountain the
+pine.  Cattle always seek the shade and if there are no trees they will
+lie down in the shade of a bush or anything that casts a shadow.  The
+cattle are so eager for shade that if they can find nothing better they
+will crowd into the narrow ribbon of shade that is cast by a columnar
+cactus or telegraph pole and seem to be satisfied with ever so little
+if only shade is touched.
+
+Twenty years ago before there were many cattle on the southwestern
+range, the gramma grass stood knee high everywhere all over that
+country and seemed to be an inexhaustible supply of feed for an
+unlimited number of cattle during an indefinite term of years.  It was
+not many years, however, after the large herds were turned loose on the
+range until the grass was all gone and the ground, except in a few
+favored spots, left nearly as bare of grass as the traveled road.  At
+the present time whatever grass there is must grow each year which,
+even in a favorable year, is never heavy.  If the summer rains fail, no
+grass whatever can grow and the cattle are without feed.  The grass
+about the springs and water holes is first to disappear and then the
+cattle must go farther and farther from water to find any grass.  When
+cattle are compelled to travel over long distances in going from grass
+to water, they naturally grow thin from insufficient food and are worn
+out by the repeated long journeys.  A cow that is thin and weak will
+postpone making the trip as long as possible--two, three and even four
+days in the hottest weather she will wait before attempting the trip.
+At last, when the poor creature reaches water, she is so famished from
+thirst that she drinks too much.  In her feeble condition she is unable
+to carry the enormous load of water which she drinks and lies down by
+the side of the friendly water trough to die from exhaustion.
+
+If cattle are turned loose upon a new range they act strange and are
+inclined to scatter.  Until they become accustomed to the change they
+should be close herded, but after they are once located they are not
+liable to stray very far.
+
+As they are only worked by men on horseback they are not frightened at
+the sight of a horse and rider; but let a stranger approach them on
+foot, in a moment after he is sighted every head is raised in surprise
+and alarm and the pedestrian is, indeed, fortunate if the herd turns
+tail and scampers off instead of running him down and tramping him
+under foot in a wild stampede.
+
+Nowhere else can be found a finer sight than is witnessed in the range
+country.  In every direction broad meadows stretch away to the horizon
+where numberless cattle roam and are the embodiment of bovine happiness
+and contentment.  Scattered about in irregular groups they are seen at
+ease lying down or feeding, and frisking about in an overflow of
+exuberant life.  Cow paths or trails converge from every point of the
+compass, that lead to springs and water holes, on which the cattle
+travel.
+
+It is an interesting sight to watch the cattle maneuver as they form in
+line, single file, ready for the march.  They move forward in an easy,
+deliberate walk one behind the other and may be seen coming and going
+in every direction.  They make their trips with great regularity back
+and forth from grass to water, and vice versa, going to water in the
+morning and back to the feeding grounds at night.
+
+Cows have a curious fashion, sometimes, of hiding out their calves.
+When a cow with a young calf starts for water she invariably hides her
+calf in a bunch of grass or clump of bushes in some secluded spot,
+where it lies down and remains perfectly quiet until the mother
+returns.   I have many times while riding the range found calves thus
+secreted that could scarcely be aroused or frightened away, which
+behavior was so different from their usual habit of being shy and
+running off at the slightest provocation.  The calf under such
+circumstances seems to understand that it is "not at home," and cannot
+be seen.
+
+At another time a lot of calves are left in charge of a young cow or
+heifer that seems to understand her responsibility and guards her
+charge carefully.  The young calves are too weak to make the long trip
+to water and thus, through the maternal instinct of the mother cow, she
+provides for the care of her offspring almost as if she were human.
+
+After viewing such a large pasture as the open range presents, which is
+limitless in extent, the small fenced field or pasture lot of a few
+acres on the old home farm back east, that looked so large to boyish
+eyes in years gone by, dwindles by comparison into insignificance and
+can never again be restored to its former greatness.
+
+
+[1] This statement is made on the authority of Mr. F. W. Volz, who
+lives at Canon Diablo, and is familiar with the customs of the Navajos.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+RANCH LIFE
+
+Ranch life on the open range may be somewhat wild and lonely, but it is
+as free and independent to the rancher as it is to his unfettered
+cattle that roam at will over a thousand hills.  As a place of
+residence for a family of women and children it is undesirable because
+of its isolation and lack of social and educational privileges;  but
+for a man who cares to "rough it" it has a rare fascination.  Its
+freedom may mean lonesomeness and its independence monotony, yet it is
+very enjoyable for a season.  Like anything else it may become wearing
+and wearisome if continued too long without a change, but its novelty
+has a charm that is irresistible.
+
+Ranch life is untrammeled by social conventionalities and is not
+burdened by business cares, but is an easy, natural life that is free
+from all kinds of pressure.  It relieves the tension of an artificial
+existence, and worry and vexation are forgotten.  Time loses its rapid
+flight and once more jogs on at an easy pace; and its complete
+isolation and quiet gives nature a chance to rest and recuperate
+
+       "Away from the dwellings of careworn men."
+
+The environment of ranch life is highly conducive to good health.  The
+scenery is delightful, the air pure and bracing, the food wholesome and
+nutritious, the couch comfortable and the sleep refreshing.  Walking
+and riding furnish the necessary exercise that nature demands.  Indeed,
+there is no better exercise to be found than riding horseback to
+stimulate sluggish organs, or excite to healthy action the bodily
+functions.  It stirs the liver, causes deep breathing, strengthens the
+heart and circulation, tones the nerves and makes an appetite that
+waits on good digestion.  An outdoor life is often better than medicine
+and is a panacea for the "ills that human flesh is heir to."
+
+The ranchman, if he is in tune with his surroundings, finds a
+never-failing spring of pleasure.  If he is company for himself he is
+well entertained and if he is a lover of nature he finds interesting
+subjects for study upon every hand.  His wants are few and simple and
+the free life that he lives develops in him a strong and sturdy
+manhood.  He is the picture of health and is happy and contented as the
+day is long.
+
+However, such a life does not suit everyone, as individual tastes
+differ.  Prejudice also exerts an influence and is apt to estimate all
+western life as crude and undesirable, being in a transition state of
+change from savagery to civilization.  Be it even so; for, if the
+savage had never existed to furnish the ancestry that civilized man
+boasts, civilization would not have been possible.  It is only natural
+that this should be so as, in the order of nature, evolution begins at
+the bottom and works up.
+
+There is perhaps no condition in life that can be called perfect, yet
+of the two extremes we choose to believe that civilization is
+preferable to barbarism; but an intermediate state has the advantage
+over both extremes by avoiding native crudeness upon the one hand and
+excessive refinement upon the other, both being equally undesirable.
+
+Happiness, which we all profess to seek, exists in some degree
+everywhere but we are always striving to acquire something more.  In
+our constant struggle for improvement, progress undoubtedly is made in
+the right direction.  With refinement comes increased sensibility and
+an enlarged capacity for enjoyment.  But, such a state in itself is not
+one of unalloyed bliss, as might be supposed, since it is marred by its
+antithesis, an increased amount of sickness and suffering, which is the
+inevitable penalty of civilization.  In such a progression the
+pleasures of life become more, but the acuteness of suffering is also
+increased.  The mistake lies in the fact that in our eager pursuit
+after the artificial we forget nature and not until we acquire a
+surfeit of that which is artificial and grow weary of the shams and
+deceits of the world do we stop and think or turn again to nature to
+find the truth.
+
+In the early days the frontier was the rendezvous for rough and lawless
+characters of every description.  That time has gone by never to return
+in the history of the nation, as the rustlers have either reformed and
+become good citizens or long ago left the country by the lead or hemp
+routes.  The change in the times has been such that never again will it
+be possible to return to the conditions that existed in the early
+settlement of the west which gave to desperadoes a safe hiding place.
+
+The people now living on what is left of the frontier will, as a class,
+compare favorably with those of any other community.  There may be
+small surface polish, as the world goes, but there is much genuine gold
+of true character that needs only a little rubbing to make it shine.
+
+The population being sparse there is comparatively little opportunity
+or inclination for wrongdoing.  Whatever anybody does is noticed at
+once and everything that happens is immediately found out.  The
+favorite haunt of vice and crime is not in a sparsely settled
+community, public opinion to the contrary notwithstanding, but in the
+centers of population, in, our large cities where temptation to do evil
+is strong and dark deeds find ready concealment in the mingling and
+confusion of the throng.
+
+The ranchman deserves to be correctly judged by his true character and
+not by any false standard that is artfully designed to misrepresent him
+or to unjustly bring him into contempt.  He may have a rough exterior,
+not intending to pose in a model fashion plate, but in real life where
+he is tried there is found under his coarse garb a heart that is honest
+and true which responds with sympathy and kindness for anyone in
+distress; and his generosity and hospitality are proverbial and stand
+without a rival.  Men from every position in life, including college
+graduates and professional men, are engaged in ranching and whoever
+takes them to be a lot of toughs and ignoramuses is egregiously
+mistaken.
+
+The strength, virtue and intelligence of the nation is found in its
+large middle class of laboring people that is largely composed of
+farmers and mechanics, men who work with their hands and live natural
+lives and are so busy in some useful occupation that they have no time
+to think of mischief.  In this favored land of freedom all of our great
+men have been of the common people and struggled up from some humble
+position.  A life of toil may seem to be hard, but it conforms to
+nature and natural laws and favors the development of the best that is
+in man; and he who shirks toil misses his opportunity.  Whatever tends
+to wean men from work only weakens them.  Luxury and indolence travel
+on the downward road of degeneracy.  They may make pleasant temporary
+indulgence, but are fatal to ultimate success.
+
+Locomotion on a ranch consists almost entirely of horseback riding as
+walking is too slow and tiresome and wheeled conveyance is often
+inconvenient or impossible for cross-country driving.  When the
+ranchman mounts his horse in the morning to make his daily rounds he
+has a clear field before him.  He is "monarch of all he surveys" and
+practically owns the earth, since his neighbors live many miles away
+and his road leads in any direction clear to the horizon.
+
+The average ranch is not intended to furnish luxuries, but to serve the
+best interests of the business in hand, that of growing cattle.  It is
+usually a "stag camp" composed entirely of men who occupy a rude cabin
+near some convenient spring or stream of water, where they keep house
+in ranch style and live after a fashion.  No money is ever expended in
+unnecessary improvements, but every dollar spent in repairs is put
+where it will do the most good.  The house furnishings are all of the
+plainest kind and intended to meet only present necessities.  The
+larder is not supplied with luxuries nor is the cuisine prolific of
+dainties, but there is always on hand a supply of the necessaries of
+life.
+
+Every man has his particular work to perform, but unless it be on some
+large ranch where the force of men employed is sufficiently large to
+require the services of a chef, he is also expected to assist in
+keeping house.   It is an unwritten law of the ranch that everybody on
+the place must share in this work and if anyone shirks his duty he must
+either promptly mend his ways or else quit his job.  It is seldom,
+however, that this rule has to be enforced, as the necessities of the
+case require that every man shall be able to prepare a meal as he is
+liable to be left alone for days or weeks at a time when he must either
+cook or starve.
+
+The equipment of the cowboy is his horse and reata.  They are his
+constant companions and serve his every purpose.  His work includes
+much hard riding, which he greatly enjoys if no accident befalls him.
+But dashing on in heedless speed while rounding up cattle he is ever
+liable to mishaps, as his horse, although sure footed, may at any time
+step into a prairie dogs' hole or stumble on a loose rock that is
+liable to throw both horse and rider to the ground in a heap.  He is,
+indeed, fortunate if he escapes unhurt, or only receives a few bruises
+and not a fractured bone or broken neck.
+
+His work consists in riding over the range and marking the condition of
+the cattle; line riding to prevent the stock from straying; looking
+after the springs and water holes and keeping them clean; branding
+calves, gathering steers for market and assisting in the general work
+of the round-up.  Every day has its duty and every season its
+particular work, yet there are times of considerable leisure during the
+year.  After his day's work is done he repairs to the ranch house, or
+to some outlying camp, whichever happens to be nearest when night
+overtakes him, for every large ranch has one or more such camps posted
+at some convenient point that furnishes temporary shelter and
+refreshment, where he rests and eats his frugal meal with a relish that
+only health and rough riding can give.
+
+If he is at the home ranch in winter he spends the long evenings before
+an open hearth fire of blazing logs and by the light of the fire and
+the doubtful aid of a tallow dip lounges the hours away in reading and
+cogitation; or, if in the company of congenial companions, engages in
+conversation and pleasantry or any amusement that the party may select.
+At an early hour he turns in for the night and after a sound and
+refreshing sleep is up and out with the dawn.  After breakfast he
+mounts his horse and in his striking and characteristic costume of
+broad sombrero, blue flannel shirt, fringed chaperejos and jingling
+spurs he rides forth to his work a perfect type of the gallant
+caballero.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE ROUND-UP
+
+In the range cattle business it is important for every owner of live
+stock to have some mark by which he can tell his own cattle.  It is
+impossible for any man to remember and recognize by natural marks every
+animal in a large herd.  On the open range there are no fenced pastures
+to hold the cattle, but all are permitted to run free and mix
+promiscuously.  To distinguish the cattle of different owners a system
+of earmarks and brands has been devised by which each ranchman can
+identify and claim his own stock.
+
+The branding is usually done during a round-up when every calf found is
+caught and branded in the brand of its mother.  If a calf remains
+unbranded until after it is weaned and quits its mother, it becomes a
+maverick and is liable to be lost to its owner.  A calf, if left to
+itself, will follow its mother for several months and then leave her to
+seek its own living.  Occasionally a calf does not become weaned when
+it should be, but continues the baby habit indefinitely.  If a yearling
+is found unweaned it is caught and "blabbed" which is done by fitting a
+peculiarly shaped piece of wood into its nose that prevents it from
+sucking but does not interfere with feeding.
+
+If a calf loses its mother while very young it is called a "leppy."
+Such an orphan calf is, indeed, a forlorn and forsaken little creature.
+Having no one to care for it, it has a hard time to make a living.  If
+it is smart enough to share the lacteal ration of some more fortunate
+calf it does very well, but if it cannot do so and has to depend
+entirely on grazing for a living its life becomes precarious and is apt
+to be sacrificed in the "struggle for the survival of the fittest."
+
+If it survives the ordeal and lives it bears the same relation to the
+herd as the maverick and has no lawful owner until it is branded.  If
+an unbranded calf has left or lost its mother it has lost its identity
+as well and finds it again only after being branded, although it may
+have swapped owners in the process.  Theoretically, a maverick belongs
+to the owner of the range on which it runs, but, practically, it
+becomes the property of the man who first finds and brands it.
+
+Although the branding is supposed to be done only during a round-up
+there is nevertheless some branding done in every month of the year.
+The ranchman is compelled to do so to save his calves from being
+stolen.  Therefore early branding is generally practiced as it has been
+found to be the best safeguard against theft.  Either the spring or
+fall is considered a good time to brand, but the only best time to
+brand a calf is when you find it.
+
+Dishonest men are found in the cattle business the same as in other
+occupations and every year a large number of cattle are misappropriated
+and stolen from the range.   Cattle have been stolen by the wholesale
+and large herds run off and illegally sold before the owner discovered
+his loss.  Calf stealing, however, happens more frequently than the
+stealing of grown cattle and many ingenious devices have been invented
+to make such stealing a success.  A common practice is to "sleeper" a
+calf by a partial earmark and a shallow brand that only singes the hair
+but does not burn deep enough to leave a permanent scar.  If the calf
+is not discovered as an imperfect or irregular brand and becomes a
+maverick, it is kept under surveillance by the thief until he considers
+it safe to finish the job when he catches it again and brands it with
+his own iron.
+
+Different methods are employed to win a calf and fit it for unlawful
+branding.  Sometimes the calf is caught and staked out in some secluded
+spot where it is not liable to be found and away from its mother until
+it is nearly starved when it is branded by the thief and turned loose;
+or, the calf's tongue is split so that it cannot suck and by the time
+that the wounded tongue has healed the calf has lost its mother, and
+the thief brands it for himself.  Again, the mother cow is shot and
+killed, when the orphan calf is branded in perfect safety as "the dead
+tell no tales."
+
+The owner of cattle on the open range must be constantly on his guard
+against losses by theft.  Usually the thief is a dishonest neighbor or
+one of his own cowboys who becomes thrifty at his employer's expense.
+Many a herd of cattle was begun without a single cow, but was started
+by branding surreptitiously other people's property.  It is not an easy
+matter to detect such a thief or to convict on evidence when he is
+arrested and brought to trial.  A cattle thief seldom works alone, but
+associates himself with others of his kind who will perjure themselves
+to swear each other clear.
+
+The cow ponies that are used in range work are small but active and
+possessed of great power of endurance.  They are the descendants of the
+horses that were brought into Mexico by the Spaniards, some of which
+escaped into the wilderness and their increase became the wild horses
+of the plains.  They are known by the various names of mustang, bronco
+and cayuse according to the local vernacular of the country in which
+they roam.  They are wild and hard to conquer and are sometimes never
+fully broken even under the severest treatment.  Bucking and pitching
+are their peculiar tricks for throwing a rider and such an experience
+invariably ends in discomfort if not discomfiture, for if the rider is
+not unhorsed he at least receives a severe shaking up in the saddle.
+
+The native cattle, like the horses, are small and wild, but are hardy
+and make good rustlers.  The native stock has been greatly improved in
+recent years by cross breeding with thoroughbred Durham and Hereford
+bulls.  Grade cattle are better suited for the open range than are pure
+bred animals, which are more tender and fare better in fenced pastures.
+By cross breeding the quality of range cattle has steadily improved
+until the scrub element has been almost bred out.
+
+As a breeding ground Arizona is unsurpassed, but for maturing beef
+cattle the northern country is preferable.  Thousands of young cattle
+are shipped out annually to stock the ranges of Wyoming and Montana and
+to fill the feed lots of Kansas, Missouri and other feeding states.  A
+dash of native blood in range cattle is desirable as it enables them to
+endure hardships without injury and find subsistence in seasons of
+drought and scant forage.
+
+The general round-up occurs in the fall, just after the summer rains,
+when there is plenty of grass and the horses and cattle are in good
+condition.  The ranchmen of a neighborhood meet at an appointed time
+and place and organize for systematic work.  A captain is chosen who is
+in command of the round-up and must be obeyed.  Each cowboy has his own
+string of horses, but all of the horses of the round-up not in use are
+turned out to graze and herd together.  A mess wagon and team of horses
+in charge of a driver, who is also the cook, hauls the outfit of pots,
+provisions and bedding.
+
+ The round-up moves from ranch to ranch rounding up and marking
+the cattle as it goes and is out from four to six weeks, according to
+the number of ranches that are included in the circuit.
+
+When camp is made and everything ready for work the cowboys ride out in
+different directions and drive in all the cattle they can find.  After
+the cattle are all gathered the calves are branded and the cattle of
+the several owners are cut into separate herds and held until the
+round-up is finished when they are driven home.
+
+Every unbranded calf is caught and branded in its mother's brand.  In a
+mix-up of cattle as occurs at a round-up, a calf sometimes gets
+separated from its mother so that when caught its identity is
+uncertain.  To avoid making a mistake the calf is only slightly marked,
+just enough to hurt it a little, and is then turned loose.  A calf when
+it is hurt is very much like a child, in that it cries and wants its
+mamma.  As quick as it is let go it immediately hunts its mother and
+never fails to find her.  When cow and calf have come together the calf
+is again caught and the branding finished.
+
+The pain produced by the hot branding iron makes the calf bawl lustily
+and struggle to free itself.  The mother cow sometimes resents the
+punishment of her offspring by charging and chasing the men who are
+doing the branding; or, if she is of a less fiery disposition, shows
+her displeasure by a look of reproach as much as to say, "You bad men,
+what have you done to hurt my little darling?"
+
+A peculiarity of brands is that they do not all grow alike.  Sometimes
+a brand, after it is healed, remains unchanged during the life of the
+animal.  At other times it enlarges to several times its original size.
+Various reasons are assigned to account for this difference.  Some
+claim that the brand only grows with the calf; others assert that it is
+due to deep branding; and, again, it is ascribed to lunar influence.
+But, as to the real cause of the difference, no explanation has been
+given that really explains the phenomenon.
+
+The cowboy's work is nearly all done in the saddle and calls for much
+hard riding.  He rides like a Centaur, but is clumsy on his feet.
+Being so much in the saddle his walking muscles become weakened, and
+his legs pressing against the body of his horse, in time, makes him
+bowlegged.  In addition he wears high-heeled Mexican boots which throw
+him on his toes when he walks and makes his already shambling gait even
+more awkward.
+
+A cowboy's life has little in it to inspire him with high ideals or
+arouse his ambition to achieve greatness.  He leads a hard life among
+rough men and receives only coarse fare and rougher treatment.   His
+life is narrow and he works in a rut that prevents him from taking a
+broad view of life.  All that he has is his monthly wages, and,
+possibly, a hope that at some future day he may have a herd of cattle
+of his own.
+
+Managing a herd of range cattle successfully is an art that can only be
+acquired by long practice, and it is surprising how expert men can
+become at that business.  All the work done among cattle is on
+horseback, which includes herding, driving, cutting and roping.  The
+trained cow pony seemingly knows as much about a round-up as his
+master, and the two, together, form a combination that is invincible in
+a herd of wild cattle.  The cow or steer that is selected to be roped
+or cut out rarely escapes.  While the horse is in hot pursuit the rider
+dexterously whirls his reata above his head until, at a favorable
+moment, it leaves his hand, uncoiling as it flies through the air, and,
+if the throw is successful, the noose falls over the animal's head.
+Suddenly the horse comes to a full stop and braces himself for the
+shock.  When the animal caught reaches the end of the rope it is
+brought to an abrupt halt and tumbled in a heap on the ground.  The
+horse stands braced pulling on the rope which has been made fast to the
+horn of the saddle by a few skillful turns.  The cowboy is out of the
+saddle and on his feet in a jiffy.  He grasps the prostrate animal by
+the tail and a hind leg, throws it on its side, and ties its four feet
+together, so that it is helpless and ready for branding or inspection.
+The cowboys have tying contests in which a steer is sometimes caught
+and tied in less time than a minute.
+
+It is a comical sight to see an unhorsed cowboy chase his runaway horse
+on foot as he is almost sure to do if caught in such a predicament.  He
+ought to know that he cannot outrun his fleet steed in such a race, but
+seems to be impelled by some strange impulse to make the attempt.
+After he has run himself out of breath he is liable to realize the
+folly of his zeal and adopt a more sensible method for capturing his
+horse.
+
+The cowboy who works on the southwestern range has good cause to fear
+the malodorous hydrophobia skunk.  At a round-up all of the cowboys
+sleep on the ground.  During the night, while they are asleep, the
+little black and white cat-like animal forages through the camp for
+something to eat.  Without provocation the skunk will attack the
+sleeper and fasten its sharp teeth in some exposed portion of his
+anatomy, either the nose or a finger or toe and will not let go until
+it is killed or forcibly removed.  The wound thus made usually heals
+quickly and the incident is, perhaps, soon forgotten; but after several
+weeks or months hydrophobia suddenly develops and proves fatal in a
+short time.
+
+The only known cure for the bite of the skunk is the Pasteur treatment
+and, since its discovery, as soon as anyone is bitten, he is
+immediately sent to the Pasteur Institute in Chicago for treatment.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+RANCH HAPPENINGS
+
+Ranch life is often full of thrilling incidents and adventures.  The
+cowboy in his travels about the country looking after cattle, hunting
+wild game or, in turn, being hunted by yet wilder Indians, finds plenty
+of novelty and excitement to break any fancied monotony which might be
+considered as belonging to ranch life.  In a number of visits to the
+range country during the past twenty years, the writer has had an
+opportunity to observe life on a ranch, and experience some of its
+exciting adventures.
+
+One day in the summer of 1891, Dave Drew, our foreman, Tedrow, one of
+the cowboys, and myself, made a trip into East Canon in the Dos Cabezas
+mountains, in search of some large unbranded calves which had been seen
+running there.  We rode leisurely along for some time and passed
+several small bunches of cattle without finding what we were looking
+for.  As we neared a bend in the canon, Dave, who rode in advance, saw
+some cattle lying in the shade of a grove of live oak trees.  Instantly
+he spurred his horse into a run and chased after the cattle at full
+speed, at the same time looking back and shouting that he saw two
+mavericks and for us to hurry up and help catch them.  It was a bad
+piece of ground to cover and we found it difficult to make progress or
+to even keep each other in sight.  Tedrow hurried up as fast as he
+could while I brought up the rear.
+
+In trying to get through in the direction that Dave had gone, we tried
+to make a short cut in order to gain time, but soon found our way
+completely blocked by immense boulders and dense thickets of cat-claw
+bushes, which is a variety of mesquite covered with strong, sharp,
+curved thorns.  We turned back to find a better road and after some
+time spent in hunting an opening we discovered a dim trail which soon
+led us into a natural park of level ground hidden among the foothills.
+Here we found Dave who alone had caught and tied down both the calves
+and was preparing to start a fire to heat the branding irons.  What he
+had done seemed like magic and was entirely incomprehensible to an
+inexperienced tenderfoot.
+
+Dave explained afterwards that to be successful in such a race much
+depended on taking the cattle by surprise, and then by a quick, bold
+dash start them running up the mountain, when it was possible to
+overtake and rope them; but if once started to running down hill it was
+not only unsafe to follow on horseback but in any event the cattle were
+certain to escape.  Taking them by surprise seemed to bewilder them and
+before they could collect their scattered senses, so to speak, and
+scamper off, the work of capture was done.
+
+Another adventure, which did not end so fortunately for met happened in
+the fall of I 887 when the country was yet comparatively new to the
+cattle business.  I rode out one day in company with a cowboy to look
+after strays and, incidentally, to watch for any game that might chance
+to cross our path.  We rode through seemingly endless meadows of fine
+gramma grass and saw the sleek cattle feeding on plenty and enjoying
+perfect contentment.  Game, also, seemed to be abundant but very shy
+and as we were not particularly hunting that kind of stock, we forebore
+giving chase or firing at long range.
+
+After riding about among the hills back of the Pinaleno ranch and not
+finding anything we concluded to return home.  On starting back we
+separated and took different routes, going by two parallel ravines in
+order to cover more ground in our search.  I had not gone far until I
+found the cattle we were looking for going to water on the home trail.
+Jogging on slowly after them and enjoying the beauty of the landscape,
+I unexpectedly caught a glimpse of a deer lying down under a mesquite
+tree on the brow of a distant hill.  I was in plain sight of the deer,
+which was either asleep or heedless of danger as it paid no attention
+whatever to my presence.
+
+Deer and antelope soon become accustomed to horses and cattle and often
+mix and feed familiarly with the stock grazing on the open range.  The
+deer did not change its position as I quietly rode by and out of sight
+behind the hill.  There I dismounted and stalked the quarry on foot,
+cautiously making my way up the side of the hill to a point where I
+would be within easy shooting distance.  As I stood up to locate the
+deer it jumped to its feet and was ready to make off, but before it
+could start a shot from my Winchester put a bullet through its head,
+and it scarcely moved after it fell.  The deer was in good condition
+and replenished our depleted ranch larder with some choice venison
+steaks.  The head, also, was a fine one the horns being just out of
+velvet and each antler five pointed, was saved and mounted.
+
+The shot and my lusty halloo soon brought my cowboy friend to the spot.
+Together we eviscerated the animal and prepared to pack it to camp on
+my horse.  As we were lifting it upon his back the bronco gave a
+vicious kick which hit me in the left knee and knocked me down.  The
+blow, though severe, glanced off so that no bone was broken.  What made
+the horse kick was a mystery as he was considered safe and had carried
+deer on other occasions.  But a bronco, like a mule, is never
+altogether reliable, particularly as to the action of its heels.  With
+some delay in getting started and in somewhat of a demoralized
+condition we mounted and rode home.
+
+Soon after the accident I had a chill which was followed by a fever and
+there was much pain and swelling in the knee that was hit.  A ranch
+house, if it happens to be a "stag camp" as ours was, is a cheerless
+place in which to be sick, but everything considered, I was fortunate
+in that it was not worse.  By the liberal use of hot water and such
+other simples as the place afforded I was soon better; but not until
+after several months' treatment at home did the injured knee fully
+recover its normal condition.
+
+The excitement of running cattle or hunting game on the open range in
+those days was mild in comparison to the panicky feeling which
+prevailed during every Indian outbreak.  The experience of many years
+had taught the people of Arizona what to expect at such a time and the
+utter diabolical wickedness of the Apaches when out on the warpath.
+During the early eighties many such raids occurred which were
+accompanied by all the usual horrors of brutality and outrage of which
+the Apaches are capable.
+
+When it became known in the fall of 1885 that Geronimo was again off
+the reservation and out on another one of his bloody raids the people
+became panic-stricken.  Some left the Territory until such time when
+the Indian question would be settled and the Government could guarantee
+freedom from Indian depredations.  Those who remained either fled to
+some near town or fort for protection, or prepared to defend themselves
+in their own homes as best they could.
+
+What else could the settlers in a new country do?  They had everything
+invested in either mines or cattle and could not afford to leave their
+property without making some effort to save it even if it had to be
+done at the risk of their own lives.  They had no means of knowing when
+or where the stealthy Apaches would strike and could only wait for the
+time in uncertainty and suspense.  Many who were in this uncomfortable
+predicament managed to escape any harm, but others fell victims to
+savage hatred whose death knell was sounded in the crack of the deadly
+rifle.
+
+Some personal experiences may help to illustrate this feeling of panic,
+as I happened to be at the ranch during the time and know how it was
+myself.
+
+One day in the month of October, 1885, while Geronimo was making his
+raid through southern Arizona, my brother and I rode through Railroad
+Pass from Pinaleno ranch to the Lorentz Place, a distance of fifteen
+miles.   It was about four o'clock in the afternoon that we ascended to
+the top of a hill to take observations and see if anything was
+happening out of the ordinary.  We saw nothing unusual until we were
+about to leave when we noticed somewhat of a commotion on the old
+Willcox and Bowie wagon road which parallels the Southern Pacific
+track.  The distance was too great to see distinctly with the naked
+eye, but looking through our field glasses, which we always carried
+when out riding, we could plainly see three loaded wagons standing in
+the road.  The drivers had evidently unhitched their teams and, mounted
+upon the horses' backs, were riding furiously in a cloud of dust down
+the road towards Bowie.
+
+I asked the judge, who was a resident and supposed to be familiar with
+the customs of the country while I was only a tenderfoot, what their
+actions meant.  He admitted that he did not understand their conduct
+unless it was that they had concluded that they could not make Willcox
+on that day and were returning to some favorable camp ground which they
+had passed on their way up, to spend the night; but the manner of their
+going was certainly peculiar.  After watching them disappear down the
+road we rode on and reached our destination in safety.
+
+The incident was forgotten until a few days later when we were in
+Willcox a friend inquired what had become of the Indians which had
+lately been seen on our range.  We replied that we had not seen any
+Indians nor known of any that had been there.  He then related to us
+how only a few days before three freighters had seen two Indians ride
+upon a hill and halt.  The sight of Indians was enough and their only
+care after that was to get away from them.  They quickly unhitched
+their horses from the wagons and rode ten miles to Bowie where they
+gave the alarm and spent the night.  The next morning, having heard
+nothing more from the Indians during the night, they took fresh courage
+and ventured to return to their wagons, which they found as they had
+left them unmolested, when they continued their journey.
+  When the freighters were asked why they did not stand off the
+Indians they said that they only had one gun and not knowing how many
+more redskins there might be decided that to retreat was the better
+part of valor.  It was my brother and I whom they had seen and mistaken
+for Indians.
+
+A few days after this event I had a similar scare of my own and after
+it was over I could sympathize with the poor, frightened freighters.  I
+was alone at the ranch house packing up and preparing to leave for
+home.  While thus occupied I chanced to go to the open door and looking
+out, to my dismay, I saw Indians.  "My heart jumped into my mouth" and
+for a moment I felt that my time had surely come.  Two men were seen
+riding horseback over the foot hills followed by a pack animal.  As I
+stood watching them and took time to think, it occurred to me that I
+might be mistaken, and that the men were not Indians after all.  As
+they drew nearer I saw that they were dressed like white men and,
+therefore, could not be Indians; but my scare while it lasted was
+painfully real.  The men proved to be two neighboring ranchmen who were
+out looking for lost cattle.
+
+In this raid, the Apaches, after leaving their reservation in the White
+mountains, traveled south along the Arizona and New Mexico line,
+killing people as they went, until they reached Stein's Pass.  From
+there they turned west, crossed the San Simon valley and disappeared in
+the Chiricahua mountains.  When next seen they had crossed over the
+mountains and attacked Riggs' ranch in Pinery canon, where they wounded
+a woman, but were driven off.
+
+The next place that they visited was the Sulphur Spring ranch of the
+Chiricahua Cattle Company, where they stole a bunch of horses.  The
+cowboys at the ranch had received warning that there were Indians about
+and had brought in the horse herd from the range and locked them in the
+corral.  The Apaches came in the night and with their usual adroitness
+and cunning stole the corral empty.  The first intimation which the
+inmates had that the ranch had been robbed was when the cowboys went in
+the morning to get their horses they found them gone.
+
+From the Sulphur Spring ranch they crossed the Sulphur Spring valley in
+the direction of Cochise's stronghold in the Dragoon mountains.  Before
+reaching the mountains they passed Mike Noonan's ranch where they shot
+its owner, who was a lone rancher and had lived alone in the valley
+many years.  He was found dead in his door yard with a bullet hole in
+the back of his head.  He evidently did not know that the Indians were
+near and was seemingly unconscious of any danger when he was killed.
+
+The Indians were not seen again after entering the stronghold until
+they crossed the line into Mexico, where they were pursued by United
+States soldiers.  After a long, stern chase Geronimo surrendered
+himself and followers to General Miles, who brought them back to
+Arizona.  As prisoners they were all loaded into cars at Bowie and
+taken to Florida.  The general in command thought it best to take them
+clear out of the country in order to put an effectual stop to their
+marauding.  Later they were removed to the Indian Territory where they
+now live.
+
+The rest of the Apaches remain in Arizona and live on the San Carlos
+reservation on the Gila river where they are being inducted into
+civilization.  Since the disturbing element among them has been removed
+there has been no more trouble.  They seem to have settled down with a
+sincere purpose to learn the white man's way and are quiet and
+peaceable.  They are laborers, farmers and stockmen and are making
+rapid progress in their new life.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+A MODEL RANCH
+
+Any one who has been in Arizona and failed to visit the Sierra Bonita
+ranch missed seeing a model ranch.  Henry C. Hooker, the owner of this
+splendid property, was born in New England and is a typical Yankee, who
+early emigrated west and has spent most of his life on the frontier.
+
+He went to Arizona at the close of the Civil War and engaged in
+contracting for the Government and furnishing supplies to the army.  It
+was before the days of railroads when all merchandise was hauled
+overland in wagons and cattle were driven through on foot.  He
+outfitted at points in Texas and on the Rio Grande and drove his cattle
+and wagons over hundreds of miles of desert road through a country that
+was infested by hostile Indians.
+
+Such a wild life was naturally full of adventures and involved much
+hardship and danger.  The venture, however, prospered and proved a
+financial success, notwithstanding some losses in men killed, wagons
+pillaged and cattle driven off and lost by bands of marauding Apaches.
+
+In his travels he saw the advantages that Arizona offered as a grazing
+country, which decided him to locate a ranch and engage in the range
+cattle business.
+
+The ranch derives its name from the Graham or Pinaleno mountains which
+the Indians called the Sierra Bonita because of the many beautiful wild
+flowers that grow there.  It is twenty miles north of Willcox, a
+thriving village on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and ten miles south
+of Ft. Grant, that nestles in a grove of cotton trees at the foot of
+Mt. Graham, the noblest mountain in southern Arizona.
+
+The Sierra Bonita ranch is situated in the famous Sulphur Spring valley
+in Cochise County, Arizona, which is, perhaps, the only all grass
+valley in the Territory.  The valley is about twenty miles wide and
+more than one hundred miles long and extends into Mexico.  Its waters
+drain in opposite directions, part flowing south into the Yaqui river,
+and part running north through the Aravaipa Canon into the Gila and
+Colorado rivers, all to meet and mingle again in the Gulf of California.
+
+Fine gramma grass covers the entire valley and an underground river
+furnishes an inexhaustible supply of good water.  In the early days of
+overland travel before the country was protected or any of its
+resources were known, immigrants, who were bound for California by the
+Southern route and ignorant of the near presence of water, nearly
+perished from thirst while crossing the valley.
+
+The water rises to within a few feet of the surface and, since its
+discovery, numerous wells have been dug and windmills and ranch houses
+dot the landscape in all directions; while thousands of cattle feed and
+fatten on the nutritious gramma grass.  Its altitude is about four
+thousand feet above the sea and the climate is exceptionally fine.
+
+The Sierra Bonita ranch is located on a natural cienega of moist land
+that has been considerably enlarged by artificial means.  In an average
+year the natural water supply of the ranch is sufficient for all
+purposes but, to guard against any possible shortage in a dry year,
+water is brought from the mountains in ditches that have been
+constructed at great labor and expense and is stored in reservoirs, to
+be used as needed for watering the cattle and irrigating the fields.
+The effect of water upon the desert soil is almost magical and even
+though the rains fail and the earth be parched, on the moist land of
+the cienega the fields of waving grass and grain are perennially green.
+
+The owner has acquired by location and purchase, title to several
+thousand acres of land, that is all fenced and much of it highly
+cultivated.  It consists of a strip of land one mile wide and ten miles
+long, which is doubly valuable because of its productiveness and as the
+key that controls a fine open range.
+
+The original herd of cattle that pastured on the Sierra Bonita ranch
+thirty years ago was composed of native scrub stock from Texas and
+Sonora.  This undesirable stock was sold at the first opportunity, and
+the range re-stocked by an improved grade of Durham cattle.  The change
+was a long stride in the direction of improvement, but, later on,
+another change was made to Herefords, and during recent years only
+whitefaces have been bred upon the ranch.
+
+Col. Hooker has a strong personality, holds decided opinions and
+believes in progress and improvement.  He has spent much time and money
+in experimental work, and his success has demonstrated the wisdom of
+his course.  Just such men are needed in every new country to develop
+its resources and prove its worth.
+
+He saw that the primitive methods of ranching then in vogue must be
+improved, and began to prepare for the change which was coming.  What
+he predicted came to pass, and the days of large herds on the open
+range are numbered.
+
+Many of them have already been sold or divided up, and it is a question
+Of only a short time when the rest will meet the same fate.
+
+When this is done there may be no fewer cattle than there are now but
+they will be bunched in smaller herds and better cared for.  Scrubs of
+any kind are always undesirable, since it has been proved that quality
+is more profitable than quantity.  A small herd is more easily handled,
+and there is less danger of loss from straying or stealing.
+
+The common method of running cattle on the open range is reckless and
+wasteful in the extreme and entirely inexcusable.  The cattle are
+simply turned loose to rustle for themselves.  No provision whatever is
+made for their welfare, except that they are given the freedom of the
+range to find water, if they can, and grass that often affords them
+only scant picking.
+
+Under the new regime the cattle are carefully fed and watered, if need
+be in a fenced enclosure, that not only gives the cattle humane
+treatment but also makes money for the owner.  The men are instructed
+to bring in every sick or weak animal found on the range and put it
+into a corral or pasture, where it is nursed back to life.  If an
+orphan calf is found that is in danger of starving it is picked up,
+carried home and fed.  On the average ranch foundlings and weaklings
+get no attention whatever, but are left in their misery to pine away
+and perish from neglect.  The profit of caring for the weak and sick
+animals on the Sierra Bonita ranch amounts to a large sum every year,
+which the owner thinks is worth saving.
+
+Another peculiarity of ranch life is that where there are hundreds or,
+perhaps, thousands of cows in a herd, not a single cow is milked, nor
+is a cup of milk or pound of butter ever seen upon the ranch table.  It
+is altogether different on Hooker's ranch.  There is a separate herd of
+milch cows in charge of a man whose duty it is to keep the table
+supplied with plenty of fresh milk and butter.  No milk ever goes to
+waste.  If there is a surplus it is fed to the calves, pigs and poultry.
+
+During the branding season the work of the round-up is all done in
+corrals instead of, as formerly, out upon the open range.  Each calf
+after it is branded, if it is old and strong enough to wean, is taken
+from the cow and turned into a separate pasture.  It prevents the weak
+mother cow from being dragged to death by a strong sucking calf and
+saves the pampered calf from dying of blackleg by a timely change of
+diet.
+
+Instead of classing the cattle out on the open range as is the usual
+custom, by an original system of corrals, gates and chutes the cattle
+are much more easily and quickly classified without any cruelty or
+injury inflicted upon either man or beast.  Classing cattle at a
+round-up by the old method is a hard and often cruel process, that
+requires a small army of both men and horses and is always rough and
+severe on the men, horses and cattle.
+
+Besides the herds of sleek cattle, there are also horses galore, enough
+to do all of the work on the ranch as well as for pleasure riding and
+driving.  There is likewise a kennel of fine greyhounds that are the
+Colonel's special pride.  His cattle, horses and dogs are all of the
+best, as he believes in thoroughbreds and has no use whatever for
+scrubs of either the human or brute kind.
+
+The dogs are fond of their master and lavish their caresses on him with
+almost human affection.  In the morning when they meet him at the door
+Ketchum pokes his nose into one of his master's half open hands and
+Killum performs the same act with the other hand.  Blackie nips him
+playfully on the leg while Dash and the rest of the pack race about
+like mad, trying to express the exuberance of their joy.
+
+In the bunch is little Bob, the fox terrier, who tries hard but is not
+always able to keep up with the hounds in a race.  He is active and
+gets over the ground lively for a small dog, but in a long chase is
+completely distanced and outclassed to his apparent disgust.  Aside
+from the fine sport that the dogs afford, they are useful in keeping
+the place clear of all kinds of "varmints" such as coyotes, skunks and
+wild cats.
+
+How much Col. Hooker appreciates his dogs is best illustrated by an
+incident.  One morning after greeting the dogs at the door, he was
+heard to remark sotto voce.
+
+"Well, if everybody on the ranch is cross, my dogs always greet me with
+a smile."
+
+There appears to be much in the dog as well as in the horse that is
+human, and the trio are capable of forming attachments for each other
+that only death can part.
+
+The ranch house is a one-story adobe structure built in the Spanish
+style of a rectangle, with all the doors opening upon a central court.
+It is large and commodious, is elegantly furnished and supplied with
+every modern convenience.  It affords every needed comfort for a family
+and is in striking contrast with the common ranch house of the range
+that is minus every luxury and often barely furnishes the necessaries
+of life.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+SOME DESERT PLANTS
+
+Much of the vegetation that is indigenous to the southwest is unique
+and can only be seen at its best in the Gila valley in southern
+Arizona.  The locality indicated is in the arid zone and is extremely
+hot and dry.  Under such conditions it is but natural to suppose that
+all plant life must necessarily be scant and dwarfed, but such is not
+the fact.  Upon the contrary many of the plants that are native to the
+soil and adapted to the climate grow luxuriantly, are remarkably
+succulent and perennially green.
+
+How they manage to acquire so much sap amidst the surrounding siccity
+is inexplicable, unless it is that they possess the function of
+absorbing and condensing moisture by an unusual and unknown method.  It
+is, however, a beneficent provision of nature as a protection against
+famine in a droughty land by furnishing in an acceptable form,
+refreshing juice and nutritious pulp to supply the pressing wants of
+hungry and thirsty man and beast in time of need.
+
+Another peculiarity of these plants is that they are acanaceous;
+covered all over with sharp thorns and needles.  Spikes of all sorts
+and sizes bristle everywhere and admonish the tenderfoot to beware.
+Guarded by an impenetrable armor of prickly mail they defy encroachment
+and successfully repel all attempts at undue familiarity.  To be torn
+by a cat-claw thorn or impaled on a stout dagger leaf of one of these
+plants would not only mean painful laceration but, perhaps, serious or
+even fatal injury.  Notwithstanding their formidable and forbidding
+appearance they are nevertheless attractive and possess some value
+either medicinal, commercial or ornamental.
+
+The maguey, or American aloe, is the most abundant and widely
+distributed of the native plants.  It is commonly known as mescal, but
+is also called the century plant from a mistaken notion that it
+blossoms only once in a hundred years.  Its average life, under normal
+conditions, is about ten years and it dies immediately after blossoming.
+
+It attains its greatest perfection in the interior of Mexico where it
+is extensively cultivated.  It yields a large quantity of sap which is,
+by a simple process of fermentation, converted into a liquor called
+pulque that tastes best while it is new and is consumed in large
+quantities by the populace.  Pulque trains are run daily from the
+mescal plantations, where the pulque is made, into the large cities to
+supply the bibulous inhabitants with their customary beverage.  In
+strength and effect it resembles lager beer, and is the popular drink
+with all classes throughout Mexico where it has been in vogue for
+centuries and is esteemed as "the only drink fit for thirsty angels and
+men."
+
+The agave is capable of being applied to many domestic uses.  Under the
+old dispensation of Indian supremacy it supplied the natives their
+principal means of support.   Its sap was variously prepared and served
+as milk, honey, vinegar, beer and brandy.  From its tough fiber were
+made thread, rope, cloth, shoes and paper.  The strong flower stalk was
+used in building houses and the broad leaves for covering them.
+
+The heart of the maguey is saccharine and rich in nutriment.  It is
+prepared by roasting it in a mescal pit and, when done, tastes much
+like baked squash.  It is highly prized by the Indians, who use it as
+their daily bread.  Before the Apaches were conquered and herded on
+reservations a mescal bake was an important event with them.  It meant
+the gathering of the clans and was made the occasion of much feasting
+and festivity.  Old mescal pits can yet be found in some of the
+secluded corners of the Apache country that were once the scenes of
+noisy activity, but have been forsaken and silent for many years.
+
+The fiery mescal, a distilled liquor that is known to the trade as
+aguardiente, or Mexican brandy, is much stronger than pulque, but less
+used.  Both liquors are said to be medicinal, and are reputed to
+possess diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties.
+
+Next in importance to the mescal comes the yucca.  There are several
+varieties, but the palm yucca is the most common, and under favorable
+conditions attains to the proportions of a tree.  Fine specimens of
+yucca grow on the Mojave desert in California that are large and
+numerous enough to form a straggling forest.
+
+The tree consists of a light, spongy wood that grows as a single stem
+or divides into two or more branches.  Each branch is crowned by a tuft
+of long, pointed leaves that grow in concentric circles.  As the new
+leaves unfold on top the old leaves are crowded down and hang in loose
+folds about the stem like a flounced skirt.  When dry the leaves burn
+readily, and are sometimes used for light and heat by lost or belated
+travelers.  White threads of a finer fiber are detached from the
+margins of the leaves that are blown by the wind into a fluffy fleece,
+in which the little birds love to nest.
+
+A grove of yucca trees presents a grotesque appearance.  If
+indistinctly viewed in the hazy distance they are easily mistaken for
+the plumed topknots of a band of prowling Apaches, particularly if the
+imagination is active with the fear of an Indian outbreak.
+
+The wood of the yucca tree has a commercial value.  It is cut into thin
+sheets by machinery which are used for surgeon's splints, hygienic
+insoles, tree protectors and calendars.  As a splint it answers an
+admirable purpose, being both light and strong and capable of being
+molded into any shape desired after it has been immersed in hot water.
+Its pulp, also, makes an excellent paper.
+
+Another variety of yucca is the amole, or soap plant.  Owing to the
+peculiar shape of its leaves it is also called Spanish bayonet.  Its
+root is saponaceous, and is pounded into a pulp and used instead of
+soap by the natives.  It grows a bunch of large white flowers, and
+matures an edible fruit that resembles the banana.  The Indians call it
+oosa, and eat it, either raw or roasted in hot ashes.
+
+A species of yucca called sotal, or saw-grass, grows plentifully in
+places, and is sometimes used as food for cattle when grass is scarce.
+In its natural state it is inaccessible to cattle because of its hard
+and thorny exterior.  To make it available it is cut down and quartered
+with a hoe, when the hungry cattle eat it with avidity.  Where the
+plant grows thickly one man can cut enough in one day to feed several
+hundred head of cattle.
+
+There are several other varieties of yucca that possess no particular
+value, but all are handsome bloomers, and the mass of white flowers
+which unfold during the season of efflorescence adds much to the beauty
+of the landscape.
+
+The prickly pear cactus, or Indian fig, of the genus Opuntia is a
+common as well as a numerous family.  The soil and climate of the
+southwest from Texas to California seem to be just to its liking.  It
+grows rank and often forms dense thickets.  The root is a tough wood
+from which, it is said, the best Mexican saddletrees are made.
+
+The plant consists of an aggregation of thick, flat, oval leaves, which
+are joined together by narrow bands of woody fiber and covered with
+bundles of fine, sharp needles.  Its pulp is nutritious and cattle like
+the young leaves, but will not eat them after they become old and hard
+unless driven to do so by the pangs of hunger.  In Texas the plant is
+gathered in large quantities and ground into a fine pulp by machinery
+which is then mixed with cotton-seed meal and fed to cattle.  The
+mixture makes a valuable fattening ration and is used for finishing
+beef steers for the market.
+
+The cholla, or cane cactus, is also a species of Opuntia, but its stem
+or leaf is long and round instead of short and flat. It is thickly
+covered with long, fine, silvery-white needles that glisten in the sun.
+Its stem is hollow and filled with a white pith like the elder.  After
+the prickly bark is stripped off the punk can be picked out through the
+fenestra with a penknife, which occupation affords pleasant pastime for
+a leisure hour.  When thus furbished up the unsightly club becomes an
+elegant walking stick.
+
+The cholla is not a pleasant companion as all persons know who have had
+any experience with it.  Its needles are not only very sharp, but also
+finely barbed, and they penetrate and cling fast like a burr the moment
+that they are touched.  Cowboys profess to believe that the plant has
+some kind of sense as they say that it jumps and takes hold of its
+victim before it is touched.  This action, however, is only true in the
+seeming, as its long transparent needles, being invisible, are touched
+before they are seen.  When they catch hold of a moving object, be it
+horse or cowboy, an impulse is imparted to the plant that makes it seem
+to jump.  It is an uncanny movement and is something more than an
+ocular illusion, as the victim is ready to testify.
+
+These desert plants do not ordinarily furnish forage for live stock,
+but in a season of drought when other feed is scarce and cattle are
+starving they will risk having their mouths pricked by thorns in order
+to get something to eat and will browse on mescal, yucca and cactus and
+find some nourishment in the unusual diet, enough, at least, to keep
+them from dying.  The plants mentioned are not nearly as plentiful now
+as they once were.  Because of the prolonged droughts that prevail in
+the range country and the overstocking of the range these plants are in
+danger of being exterminated and, if the conditions do not soon change,
+of becoming extinct.
+
+The saguaro, or giant cactus, is one of nature's rare and curious
+productions.  It is a large, round, fluted column that is from one to
+two feet thick and sometimes sixty feet high.  The trunk is nearly of
+an even thickness from top to bottom but, if there is any difference,
+it is a trifle thicker in the middle.  It usually stands alone as a
+single perpendicular column, but is also found bunched in groups.  If
+it has any branches they are apt to start at right angles from about
+the middle of the tree and curve upward, paralleling the trunk, which
+form gives it the appearance of a mammoth candelabrum.
+
+The single saguaro pillar bears a striking resemblance to a Corinthian
+column.  As everything in art is an attempt to imitate something in
+nature, is it possible that Grecian architecture borrowed its notable
+pattern from the Gila valley?
+
+Southern Arizona is the natural home and exclusive habitat of this most
+singular and interesting plant and is, perhaps, the only thing growing
+anywhere that could have suggested the design.  Wherever it grows, it
+is a conspicuous object on the landscape and has been appropriately
+named "The Sentinel of the Desert."
+
+Its mammoth body is supported by a skeleton of wooden ribs, which are
+held in position by a mesh of tough fibers that is filled with a green
+pulp.  Rows of thorns extend its entire length which are resinous and,
+if ignited, burn with a bright flame.  They are sometimes set on fire
+and have been used by the Apaches for making signals.  The cactus tree,
+like the eastern forest tree, is often found bored full of round, holes
+that are made by the Gila woodpecker.  When the tree dies its pulp
+dries up and blows away and there remains standing only a spectral
+figure composed of white slats and fiber that looks ghostly in the
+distance.
+
+Its fruit is delicious and has the flavor of the fig and strawberry
+combined.  It is dislodged by the greedy birds which feed on it and by
+arrows shot from bows in the hands of the Indians.  The natives esteem
+the fruit as a great delicacy, and use it both fresh and dried and in
+the form of a treacle or preserve.
+
+The ocotillo, or mountain cactus, is a handsome shrub that grows in
+rocky soil upon the foothills and consists of a cluster of nearly
+straight poles of brittle wood covered with thorns and leaves.  It
+blossoms during the early summer and each branch bears on its crest a
+bunch of bright crimson flowers.
+
+If set in a row the plant makes an ornamental hedge and effective fence
+for turning stock.  The seemingly dry sticks are thrust into yet drier
+ground where they take root and grow without water.   Its bark is
+resinous and a fagot of dry sticks makes a torch that is equal to a
+pineknot.
+
+The echinocactus, or bisnaga, is also called "The Well of the Desert."
+It has a large barrel-shaped body which is covered with long spikes
+that are curved like fishhooks.  It is full of sap that is sometimes
+used to quench thirst.  By cutting off the top and scooping out a
+hollow, the cup-shaped hole soon fills with a sap that is not exactly
+nectar but can be drunk in an emergency.  Men who have been in danger
+of perishing from thirst on the desert have sometimes been saved by
+this unique method of well digging.
+
+Greasewood, or creasote bush as it is sometimes called on account of
+its pungent odor, grows freely on the desert, but has little or no
+value and cattle will not touch it.  Like many other desert plants it
+is resinous and if thrown into the fire, the green leaves spit and
+sputter while they burn like hot grease in a frying pan.
+
+The mesquite tree is peculiarly adapted to the desert and is the most
+valuable tree that grows in the southwest.  As found growing on the dry
+mesas of Arizona, it is only a small bush, but on the moist land of a
+river bottom it becomes a large forest tree.  A mesquite forest stands
+in the Santa Cruz valley south of Tucson that is a fair sample of its
+growth under favorable conditions.
+
+Its wood is hard and fine grained and polishes beautifully.  It is very
+durable and is valuable for lumber, fence posts and firewood.  On the
+dry mesas it seems to go mostly to root that is out of all proportion
+to the size of the tree.  The amount of firewood that is sometimes
+obtained by digging up the root of a small mesquite bush is astonishing.
+
+It makes a handsome and ornamental shade tree, having graceful
+branches, feathery leaves and fragrant flowers, and could be cultivated
+to advantage for yard and park purposes.
+
+Its principal value, however, lies in its seed pods, which grow in
+clusters and look like string beans.  The mesquite bean furnishes a
+superior article of food and feeds about everything that either walks
+or flies on the desert.  The Indians make meal of the seed and bake it
+into bread.  Cattle that feed on the open range will leave good grass
+to browse on a mesquite bush.  Even as carnivorous a creature as the
+coyote will make a full meal on a mess of mesquite beans and seem to be
+satisfied.  The tree exudes a gum that is equal to the gum arabic of
+commerce.
+
+The palo verde is a tree without leaves and is a true child of the
+desert.  No matter how hot and dry the weather the palo verde is always
+green and flourishing.  At a distance it resembles a weeping willow
+tree stripped of its leaves.  Its numerous long, slender, drooping
+branches gracefully criss-cross and interlace in an intricate figure of
+filigree work.  It has no commercial value, but if it could be
+successfully transplanted and transported it would make a desirable
+addition to green-house collections in the higher latitudes.
+
+The romantic mistletoe that is world renowned for its magic influence
+in love affairs, grows to perfection in southern Arizona.  There are
+several varieties of this parasitic plant that are very unlike in
+appearance.  Each kind partakes more or less of the characteristics of
+the tree upon which it grows, but all have the glossy leaf and waxen
+berry.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS
+
+Arizona has several hot springs within her borders but, perhaps, none
+are more valuable nor picturesquely located than Hooker's hot springs.
+These springs are located in the foothills on the western slope of the
+Galiura mountains in southeastern Arizona, thirty-five miles west of
+Willcox on the Southern Pacific Railroad.  The spot is beautifully
+situated, commanding an extended view of valley and mountain scenery.
+
+There are a dozen springs, big and little, in the group and are
+scattered over several acres of hillside.  The temperature of the water
+is 130 degrees Fahrenheit and too hot to drink but, if sipped slowly,
+it makes an admirable hot-water draught.  The springs evidently have
+their source deep down in the earth and the flow of water never varies.
+When the water from the different springs is all united it forms a good
+sized brook.  The water is conducted through pipes into the bath house,
+where it supplies a row of bath-tubs with water of any desired
+temperature.  The surplus water flows into a large earthern tank or
+artificial lake and is used for irrigating a small farm that produces
+grain, fruits and vegetables.
+
+The water from these springs is in great demand and is not only sought
+by the human biped, but is also in favor with the equine quadruped.
+Every morning after the stable doors are thrown open and the horses
+turned loose they invariably, of their own accord, proceed to the lake,
+wade out into shallow water and take a bath.  They lie down and splash
+the water about like a lot of schoolboys taking a swim.
+
+The water from all the springs is perfectly soft and pure.  It cannot
+be called a mineral water, as an analysis shows that it contains only a
+trace of any kind of mineral matter.  This peculiarity of the water is
+no damage to the springs, since purity is the best recommendation that
+any water can have.  Water that is heavily mineralized may be
+medicinal, but is not necessarily remedial, or even wholesome,
+notwithstanding the popular belief to the contrary.  Water that is
+charged with much mineral is spoiled for drinking.  Moderately hard
+water need not be injurious to anybody, but is especially beneficial to
+children.  The assimilative function in the child appropriates mineral
+water tardily and sometimes absorbs it altogether too slowly for the
+child's good.  Its absence in the system causes a disease called
+rickets, in which, from all lack of lime, the bones of the child become
+soft and yielding.  The bones of a rickety child will bend rather than
+break.  It is slow to walk and inclines to become bow-legged.
+
+It is entirely different in old age.  As the years multiply the system
+absorbs an abnormal and ever increasing amount of calcareous matter.
+The bones become unduly hard and brittle and are easily broken.  Bony
+matter is liable to be deposited in and about the joints, when they
+become stiff and painful.  It also lodges in the various soft tissues
+of the body, and ossification of the valves of the heart and walls of
+the arteries sometimes happens.  It weakens the blood vessels so that
+they easily rupture, which causes apoplexy, paralysis and death.
+Calcareous concretions in the kidneys and bladder, also, come from the
+same cause, and are called gravel.  Such deposits are not only annoying
+and painful to the patient, but in time may prove fatal if not removed
+by surgery.
+
+Middle-aged and elderly people should never drink anything but soft
+water.  If a natural supply of soft water cannot be obtained distilled
+water should be substituted.  If neither natural soft water nor
+distilled water are available, and there is doubt as to the purity of
+the water that is being used, it should be boiled and then let stand to
+cool and settle.  Boiling not only destroys and renders harmless any
+organic germs that may be present, but also precipitates and eliminates
+much of its inorganic salts.
+
+A few drops of a weak solution of nitrate of silver added to a glass of
+water will quickly determine its quality.  If the water that is being
+tested is free from mineral matter no change is produced, but if it
+contains mineral it turns the water opaque or milky.
+
+The value of mineral water as a healthful or necessary drink has been
+greatly exaggerated.  While it may do good in some instances, it is not
+nearly as beneficial as is commonly supposed.  Instead of it always
+doing good the contrary is often true.
+
+If a mineral water is desired there is no necessity of visiting a
+mineral spring to obtain it, as it can be made artificially at home or
+at the nearest pharmacy in any quantity or of any quality desired, with
+the additional advantage of having it contain exactly the ingredients
+wanted.  There are nearly as many mineral waters on the market as there
+are patent medicines, and both are about equally misrepresented and
+deceiving.  All classes of people would undoubtedly be greatly
+benefited in health, strength and longevity if more attention was given
+to the quality of our domestic water supply.  Any one who needs a
+change, other things being equal, should seek a resort that furnishes
+pure, soft water rather than choose a spring that only boasts of its
+mineral properties.  Not all of the benefit that is derived from a
+course at watering place is due to the virtues of the water, be it ever
+so potent.  The change of environment, climate, diet, bathing, etc.,
+are each factors that contribute something towards a cure.
+
+Next to using pure water as a beverage it is important to know how to
+bathe properly, such knowledge being simple and plain enough if only
+common sense is used.  Usually the more simply a bath is administered
+the better are the results.  Some people seem to think that in order to
+derive any benefit from a bath it is necessary to employ some unusual
+or complicated process.  Nothing is further from the truth.  The plain,
+tepid bath is the best for general use.  It thoroughly cleanses the
+body and produces no unpleasant shock.  A hot bath is rarely needed
+but, if it is used, enough time should be given after it to rest and
+cool off before going out into the open air in order to avoid taking
+cold.  The good or harm of a bath must be judged by its effects.
+
+A bath is only beneficial when it is followed by a healthy reaction,
+which is indicated by an agreeable feeling of warmth and comfort, and
+is injurious if the subject feels cold, weak or depressed.  A bath does
+not affect all people alike; what will do one person good may injure
+another.  It is never wise to prescribe a stereotyped treatment for
+every patient.  The disease, temperament and constitution of each
+individual must be taken into account and the temperature and frequency
+of the bath must be determined and regulated by the necessity and
+idiosyncrasies of each case.  The amount of bathing that a strong,
+full-blooded person could endure would mop out the life of a thin,
+bloodless weakling.
+
+Locally, these springs have become famous because of the remarkable
+cures they have effected, and are sought by many sick people who have
+failed to find relief by other means.  Before the white man came the
+Indians used the water for curing their sick.  The water is curative in
+rheumatism, neuralgia, dyspepsia, blood and skin disorders and kidney
+complaint.  The water cure is all right even if it does not always
+fulfill every expectation.
+
+Hooker's hot springs is a pleasant place to visit for people who are
+not invalids.  It is off the beaten path of travel and is an ideal spot
+for the tired man who needs a rest.  It has not yet been overrun by the
+crowd, but retains all of the natural charm of freshness which the old
+resorts have lost.  Here nature riots in all of her wild beauty and has
+not yet been perceptibly marred by the despoiling hand of man.
+
+Aside from the luxury of the baths which the place affords the visitor
+can find a great deal to please him.  The climate is healthful and the
+weather pleasant during most of the year.  In the near vicinity much
+can be found in nature that is interesting.  Never-failing mountain
+streams, deep canons and dark forests wait to be visited and explored,
+while curiosities in animal and vegetable life abound.  Not far off is
+a place here perfect geodes of chalcedony are found.
+
+Mining and ranching are the leading industries of the country and a
+visit to some neighboring mine or cattle ranch is not without interest
+to the novice.  But, if he starts out on such a trip he must decide to
+make a day of it, as the country is sparsely settled and the distances
+long between camps.  If the accommodations where he stops are not
+always luxurious the welcome is cordial and the entertainment
+comfortable.  The new experience is also delightfully romantic.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+CANON ECHOES
+
+The Colorado Plateau, in northern Arizona, is the union of the Rocky
+and Sierra Nevada mountains in their southward trend, and forms the
+southern rim of the Great Basin.  This depression was once a vast
+inland sea, of which nothing remains but the Salt Lake of Utah, and is
+drained by the Colorado river.  The entire plateau region is remarkable
+for its grand scenery--abysmal chasms, sculptured buttes and towering
+cliffs, which are "brightly colored as if painted by artist Gods, not
+stained and daubed by inharmonious hues but beautiful as flowers and
+gorgeous as the clouds."  The plateau is an immense woodland of pines
+known as the Coconino Forest.
+
+The San Francisco mountains, nearly thirteen thousand feet high, stand
+in the middle of the plateau which is, also, the center of an extensive
+extinct volcanic field.  The whole country is covered with cinders
+which were thrown from active volcanoes centuries ago.  The track of
+the Santa Fe Pacific railroad, clear across Arizona, is ballasted with
+cinders instead of gravel that were dug from pits on its own right of
+way.
+
+Near the southern base of the San Francisco mountains is the town of
+Flagstaff built in a natural forest of pine trees.  It is sometimes
+called the Skylight City because of its high altitude, rarefied
+atmosphere and brilliant sky.   It is said to have been named by a
+company of soldiers who camped on the spot while out hunting Indians,
+when the country was new.  It happened to be on the Fourth of July and
+they celebrated the day by unfurling Old Glory from the top of a pine
+tree, which was stripped of its branches and converted into a
+flagstaff.  Here is located the Lowell Observatory, which has made many
+valuable discoveries in astronomy.  It is a delightful spot and offers
+many attractions to the scientist, tourist and health seeker.
+
+One of the many interesting objects of this locality is the Ice Cave
+situated eight miles southwest of the town.  It not only attracts the
+curious, but its congealed stores are also drawn on by the people who
+live in the vicinity when the domestic ice supply runs short.  The cave
+is entered from the side of a ravine and its opening is arched by lava
+rock.  How the ice ever got there is a mystery unless it is, as Mr.
+Volz claims, glacial ice that was covered and preserved by a thick coat
+of cinders which fell when the San Francisco Peaks were in active
+eruption.  As far as observed the ice never becomes more nor ever gets
+less, except what is removed by mining.
+
+The region is unusually attractive to the naturalist.  It is the best
+field for the study of entomology that is known.  But all nature riots
+here.  Dr. C. Hart Merriam, in his report of a biological survey of the
+San Francisco mountains and Painted Desert, states that there are seven
+distinct life zones in a radius of twenty-five miles running the entire
+gamut from the Arctic to the Tropic.[1] The variety of life which he
+found and describes cannot be duplicated in the same space anywhere
+else upon the globe.
+
+But the greatest natural wonder of this region and, it is claimed by
+competent judges of the whole world, is the Grand Canon of Arizona,
+which is seventy-two miles north of Flagstaff.  Thurber's stage line,
+when it was running, carried passengers through in one day, but after
+the railroad was built from Williams to Bright Angel the stage was
+abandoned.  However it is an interesting trip and many people make it
+every summer by private conveyance who go for an outing and can travel
+leisurely.  It is a good natural road and runs nearly the entire
+distance through an open pine forest.
+
+Two roads leave Flagstaff for the Canon called respectively the summer
+and winter roads.  The former goes west of the San Francisco mountains
+and intersects with the winter road that runs east of the peaks at
+Cedar Ranch, which was the midway station of the old stage line.  The
+summer road is the one usually travelled, as the winter road is almost
+destitute of water.
+
+The road ascends rapidly from an elevation of seven thousand feet at
+Flagstaff to eleven thousand feet at the summit, and descends more
+gradually to Cedar Ranch, where the elevation is less than five
+thousand feet and in distance is about halfway to the Canon.  Here
+cedar and pinon trees take the place of the taller pines.  Cedar Ranch
+is on an arm of the Painted Desert, which stretches away towards the
+east over a wide level plain to the horizon.  From this point the road
+ascends again on an easy grade until it reaches an elevation of eight
+thousand feet at the Canon.
+
+During the long drive through the pine woods the appearance of the
+country gives no hint of a desert, but beautiful scenery greets the eye
+on every hand.  The air is filled with the fragrance of pine and ozone
+that is as exhilarating as wine.  No signs of severe windstorms are
+seen in broken branches and fallen trees.  If an occasional tree is
+found lying prostrate it was felled either by the woodman's ax or one
+of nature's destructive forces, fire or decay, or both.  But the large
+number of shattered trees which are encountered during the day give
+evidence that the lightning is frequently very destructive in its work.
+The bark of the pine trees is of a reddish gray color, which contrasts
+brightly with the green foliage.
+
+The winter road furnishes even more attractions than the summer road on
+which line a railroad should be built through to the Canon.  Soon after
+leaving town a side road leads to the cliff dwellings in Walnut Canon.
+Along the wayside a signboard points the direction to the Bottomless
+Pit, which is a deep hole in the ground that is only one of many such
+fissures in the earth found on the Colorado Plateau.  Four miles east
+of Canon Diablo a narrow fissure from a few inches  to several feet
+wide and hundreds of feet deep has been traced in a continuous line
+over one hundred miles.
+
+Further on a group of cave dwellings can be seen among the rocks upon a
+distant bill.  A turn in the road next brings the Sunset Mountain into
+view.  Its crest glows with the colors of sunset, which unusual effect
+is produced by colored rocks that are of volcanic origin.   Black
+cinders cover its steep sides and its brow is the rim of a deep crater.
+Between Sunset Peak and O'Leary Peak is the Black Crater from which
+flowed at one time thick streams of black lava that hardened into rock
+and are known as the lava beds.  Scores of crater cones and miles of
+black cinders can be seen from Sunset Mountain, and lava and cinders of
+this region look as fresh as if an eruption had occurred but yesterday.
+
+A peculiarity of the pine trees which grow in the cinders is that their
+roots do not go down but spread out upon the surface.  Some of the
+roots are entirely bare while others are half buried in cinders.  They
+are from an inch to a foot thick and from ten to fifty feet long,
+according to the size of the tree which they support.  The cause of the
+queer root formation is not apparent.
+
+The whole plateau country is scarce of water.  The Grand Canon drains
+the ground dry to an unusual depth.  The nearest spring of water to the
+Canon at Grand View is Cedar Spring, forty miles distant.  Until
+recently all the water used at the canon was either packed upon burros
+from springs down in the canon or caught in ponds or reservoirs from
+rains or melted snow.  Since the completion of the railroad the water
+is hauled in on cars constructed for that purpose.
+
+The watershed of the canon slopes away from the rim and instead of the
+storm water running directly into the river it flows in the opposite
+direction.  Only after a long detour of many miles does it finally
+reach the river by the Little Colorado or Cataract Creek.
+
+Now that the Grand Canon is made accessible by rail over a branch road
+of the Santa Fe from Williams on the main line, it is reached in
+comparative ease and comfort.  But to stop at the Bright Angel Hotel
+and look over the guard rail on the cliff down into the canon gives
+merely a glimpse of what there is to see.  A brief stay of one day is
+better than not stopping at all, but to get even an inkling of its
+greatness and grandeur days and weeks must be spent in making trips up
+and down and into the canon.
+
+After having seen the canon at Bright Angel the next move should be to
+go to Grand View fourteen miles up the canon.  An all day's stage ride
+from Flagstaff to the canon was tiresome, but the two hours' drive
+through the pine woods from Bright Angel to Grand View is only pleasant
+recreation.
+
+Seeing the Grand Canon for the first time does not necessarily produce
+the startling and lachrymose effects that have been described by some
+emotional writers, but the first sight never disappoints and always
+leaves a deep and lasting impression.
+
+As immense as is the great chasm it is formed in such harmonious
+proportions that it does not shock the senses.  But as everything about
+the canon is built on such a grand scale and the eyes not being
+accustomed to such sights it is impossible to comprehend it--to measure
+its dimensions correctly or note every detail of form and color at the
+first glance.  As the guide remarked, "God made it so d-- big that you
+can't lie about it."
+
+To comprehend it at all requires time to re-educate the senses and make
+them accustomed to the new order of things.  But even a cursory view
+will always remain in the memory as the event of a lifetime in the
+experience of the average mortal.
+
+Distance in the canon cannot be measured by the usual standards.  There
+are sheer walls of rocks that are thousands of feet high and as many
+more feet deep, but where the bottom seems to be is only the beginning
+of other chasms which lie in the dark shadows and descend into yet
+deeper depths below.  The canon is not a single empty chasm, which is
+the universal conception of a canon, but consists of a complex system
+of sub and side canons that is bewildering.  Out of its depths rise an
+infinite number and variety of castellated cliffs and sculptured buttes
+that represent every conceivable variety of architecture.  They have
+the appearance of a resurrected city of great size and beauty which
+might have been built by an army of Titans then buried and forgotten.
+
+A trip into the canon down one of the trails makes its magnitude even
+more impressive than a rim view.  The distance across the chasm is also
+much greater than what it seems to be, which is demonstrated by the
+blue haze that fills the canon.  The nearby buttes are perfectly
+distinct, but as the distance increases across the great gorge the haze
+gradually thickens until the opposite wall is almost obscured by the
+mist.
+
+The myriads of horizontal lines which mark the different strata of
+rocks have the appearance of a maze of telegraph wires strung through
+the canon.
+
+A ride leisurely on horseback along the rim trail from Thurber's old
+camp to Bissell's Point, seven miles up the canon, and back is easily
+made in a day.  It presents a panorama of magnificent views all along
+the rim, but Bissell's is conceded to be the best view point on the
+canon.  From this point about thirty miles of river can be seen as it
+winds in and out deep down among the rocks.  The Colorado river is a
+large stream, but as seen here a mile below and several miles out, it
+dwindles into insignificance and appears no larger than a meadow brook.
+The river looks placid in the distance, but is a raging, turbulent
+torrent in which an ordinary boat cannot live and the roar of its wild
+waters can be distinctly heard as of the rushing of a distant train of
+cars.
+
+A second day spent in riding down the canon to Grand View Point and
+back is equally delightful.  Looking across a bend in the canon from
+Grand View Point to Bissell's Point the distance seems to be scarcely
+more than a stone's throw, yet it is fully half the distance of the
+circuitous route by the rim trail.
+
+There are three trails leading into the canon and down to the river,
+the Bright Angel, Grand View and Hance trails, which are at intervals
+of eight and twelve miles apart.  They are equally interesting and
+comparatively safe if the trip is made on the back of a trained pony or
+burro with a competent guide.
+
+The Hance trail is a loop and is twenty miles long.  It is seven miles
+down to the river, six miles up the stream and seven miles back to the
+rim.  It was built single handed by Captain John Hance, who has lived
+many years in the canon.  The trail is free to pedestrians, but yields
+the captain a snug income from horse hire and his own services as guide
+for tourists who go over the trail.
+
+Captain Hance is an entertaining raconteur and he spins many
+interesting yarns for the amusement, if not the edification, of his
+guests.  The serious manner in which he relates his stories makes it
+sometimes hard to tell whether he is in jest or earnest.  His
+acknowledged skill in mountaineering, and felicity in romancing has won
+for him more than a local reputation and the distinguished title of
+Grand Canon Guide and Prevaricator.
+
+He relates how "once upon a time" he pursued a band of mountain sheep
+on the rim of the canon.  Just as he was about to secure his quarry the
+sheep suddenly turned a short corner and disappeared behind some rocks.
+Before he realized his danger he found himself on the brink of a
+yawning abyss and under such a momentum that he could not turn aside or
+stop his horse.  Together they went over the cliff in an awful leap.
+He expected to meet instant death on the rocks below and braced himself
+for the shock.  As the fall was greater than usual, being over a mile
+deep in a perpendicular line, it required several seconds for the
+descending bodies to traverse the intervening space, which gave him a
+few moments to think and plan some way of escape.  At the critical
+moment a happy inspiration seized and saved him.  On the instant that
+his horse struck the rock and was dashed to pieces, the captain sprang
+nimbly from the saddle to his feet unharmed.  To prove the truth of his
+statement he never misses an opportunity to point out to the tourist
+the spot where his horse fell, and shows the white bones of his defunct
+steed bleaching in the sun.
+
+At Moran's Point there is a narrow cleft in the rocks which he calls
+the Fat Woman's Misery.  It received its name several years ago from a
+circumstance that happened while he was conducting a party of tourists
+along the rim trail.  To obtain a better view the party essayed to
+squeeze through the opening, in which attempt all succeeded except one
+fat women who stuck fast.  After vainly trying to extricate her from
+her uncomfortable position he finally told her that there was but one
+of two things to do, either remain where she was and starve to death or
+take one chance in a thousand of being blown out alive by dynamite.
+After thinking a moment she decided to try the "one chance in a
+thousand" experiment.
+
+A charge of dynamite was procured and the fuse lighted.  After the
+explosion he returned to the spot and found the result satisfactory.
+The blast had released the woman, who was alive and sitting upon a
+rock.  He approached her cheerfully and said:
+
+"Madam, how do you feel?"  She looked up shocked, but evidently very
+much relieved, and replied "Why, sir, I feel first rate, but the jolt
+gave me a little toothache."
+
+He tells another story of how he once took a drink from the Colorado
+river.  The water is never very clear in the muddy stream but at that
+particular time it was unusually murky.  He had nothing with which to
+dip the water and lay down on the bank to take a drink.  Being very
+thirsty he paid no attention to the quality of the water, but only knew
+that it tasted wet.  The water, however, grew thicker as he drank until
+it became balled up in his mouth, and stuck fast in his throat and
+threatened to choke him.  He tried to bite it off but failed because
+his teeth were poor.  At last becoming desperate, he pulled his hunting
+knife from his belt and cut himself loose from his drink.
+
+Different theories have been advanced to account for the origin of the
+Grand Canon, but it is a question whether it is altogether due to any
+one cause.  Scientists say that it is the work of water erosion, but to
+the layman it seems impossible.  If an ocean of water should flow over
+rocks during eons of ages it does not seem possible that it could cut
+such a channel.
+
+Water sometimes does queer things, but it has never been known to
+reverse nature.  By a fundamental law of hydrostatics water always
+seeks its level and flows in the direction of least resistance.  If
+water ever made the Grand Canon it had to climb a hill and cut its way
+through the backbone of the Buckskin mountains, which are not a range
+of peaks but a broad plateau of solid rock.  Into this rock the canon
+is sunk more than a mile deep, from six to eighteen miles wide and over
+two hundred miles long.
+
+In order to make the theory of water erosion tenable it is assumed that
+the Colorado river started in its incipiency like any other river.
+After a time the river bed began to rise and was gradually pushed up
+more and more by some unknown subterranean force as the water cut
+deeper and deeper into the rock until the Grand Canon was formed.
+
+Captain Hance has a theory that the canon originated in an underground
+stream which tunneled until it cut its way through to the surface.  As
+improbable as is this theory it is as plausible as the erosion theory,
+but both theories appear to be equally absurd.
+
+At some remote period of time the entire southwest was rent and torn by
+an awful cataclysm which caused numerous fissures and seams to appear
+all over the country.  The force that did the work had its origin in
+the earth and acted by producing lateral displacement rather than
+direct upheaval.  Whenever that event occurred the fracture which marks
+the course of the Grand Canon was made and, breaking through the
+enclosing wall of the Great Basin, set free the waters of an inland
+sea.  What the seismic force began the flood of liberated water helped
+to finish, and there was born the greatest natural wonder of the known
+world.
+
+There are canons all over Arizona and the southwest that resemble the
+Grand Canon, except that they were made on a smaller scale.  Many of
+them are perfectly dry and apparently never contained any running
+water.  They are all so much alike that they were evidently made at the
+same time and by the same cause.  Walnut Canon and Canon Diablo are
+familiar examples of canon formation.
+
+The rocks in the canons do not stand on end, but lie in horizontal
+strata and show but little dip anywhere.  Indeed, the rocks lie so
+plumb in many places that they resemble the most perfect masonry.
+
+The rim rock of the Mogollon Mesa is of the same character as the walls
+of the Grand Canon and is an important part of the canon system.  It is
+almost a perpendicular cliff from one to three thousand feet high which
+extends from east to west across central Arizona and divides the great
+northern plateau from the southern valleys.  It is one side of an
+immense vault or canon wall whose mate has been lost or dropped
+completely out of sight.
+
+In many of the canons where water flows continuously, effects are
+produced that are exactly the opposite of those ascribed to water
+erosion.  Instead of the running water cutting deeper into the earth it
+has partly filled the canon with alluvium, thereby demonstrating
+nature's universal leveling process.  Even the floods of water which
+pour through them during every rainy season with an almost irresistible
+force carry in more soil than they wash out and every freshet only adds
+new soil to the old deposits.  If these canons were all originally made
+by water erosion as is claimed, why does not the water continue to act
+in the same manner now but, instead, completely reverses itself as
+above stated?  There can be but one of two conclusions, either that
+nature has changed or that scientists are mistaken.
+
+The Aravaipa in southern Arizona is an interesting canon and is typical
+of its kind.  Its upper half is shallow and bounded by low rolling
+foothills, but in the middle it suddenly deepens and narrows into a box
+canon, which has high perpendicular walls of solid rock like the Grand
+Canon.  It is a long, narrow valley sunk deep into the earth and has
+great fertility and much wild beauty.  It measures from a few feet to a
+mile in width and drains a large scope of rough country.  The surface
+water which filters through from above reappears in numerous springs of
+clear cold water in the bottom of the canon.  In the moist earth and
+under the shade of forest trees grow a variety of rare flowers, ferns
+and mosses.
+
+Where the canon begins to box a large spring of pure cold water issues
+from the sand in the bottom of a wash which is the source of the
+Aravaipa creek.  It flows through many miles of rich alluvial land and
+empties into the San Predo river.  The valley was settled many years
+ago by men who were attracted to the spot by its rare beauty, fertility
+of soil and an abundance of wood and water.
+
+The land is moist and covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, which
+will average over one hundred feet high.  The trees are as large and
+the foliage as dense as in any eastern forest.  Being sunk deep in the
+earth the narrow valley at the bottom of the canon can only be seen
+from above.  When viewed from some favorable point it has the
+appearance of a long green ribbon stretched loosely over a brown
+landscape.  The sight of it is a pleasant surprise to the weary
+wayfarer who, after traveling over many miles of dreary desert road,
+finds himself suddenly ushered into such pleasant scenes.
+
+The canons of Arizona are unrivaled for grandeur, sublimity and beauty,
+and will attract an ever increasing number of admirers.
+
+
+[1] Results of a Biological Survey of the San Francisco Mountain Region
+and Painted Desert of the Little Colorado, Arizona. 1890.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN
+
+Ten miles southeast of Canon Diablo station on the Santa Fe Pacific
+Railroad, stands the Meteorite Mountain of Arizona, on a wide, open
+plain of the Colorado Plateau.  It is two hundred feet high and, as
+seen at a distance, has the appearance of a low, flat mountain.  Its
+top forms the rim of an immense, round, bowl-shaped hole in the ground
+that has almost perpendicular sides, is one mile wide and over six
+hundred feet deep.  The hole, originally, was evidently very much
+deeper than it is at the present time, but it has gradually become
+filled with debris to its present depth.  The bottom of the hole has a
+floor of about forty acres of level ground which merges into a talus.
+
+This formation is sometimes called the Crater, because of its shape,
+but there is no evidence of volcanic action.  Locally it is known as
+Coon Butte, which is a misnomer; but Meteorite Mountain is a name with
+a meaning.
+
+It is not known positively just how or when the mountain was formed,
+but the weight of evidence seems to favor the meteorite theory, which
+is that at some remote period of time a monster meteorite fell from the
+sky and buried itself in the earth.
+
+Mr. F. W. Volz, who has lived in the country twenty years and is an
+intelligent observer of natural phenomena, has made a careful study of
+the mountain, and it is his opinion that such an event actually
+occurred and that a falling star made the mountain.  When the
+descending meteorite, with its great weight and terrific momentum, hit
+the earth something had to happen.  It buried itself deep beneath the
+surface and caused the earth to heave up on all sides.  The effect
+produced is aptly illustrated, on a small scale, by throwing a rock
+into thick mud.
+
+The impact of the meteorite upon the earth not only caused an upheaval
+of the surface, but it also crushed and displaced the rocks beneath.
+As the stellar body penetrated deeper into the earth its force became
+more concentrated and either compressed the rocks into a denser mass or
+ground them to powder.
+
+The plain on which the mountain stands is covered by a layer of red
+sandstone of variable thickness, as it is much worn in places by
+weather erosion.  Below the top covering of red sandstone lie three
+hundred feet of limestone and beneath the limestone five hundred feet
+more of white sandstone.  This arrangement of the rocks is plainly seen
+in the walls of Canon Diablo.
+
+The displaced strata of rocks in the hole are tilted and stand outwards
+and great boulders of red sandstone and limestone lie scattered all
+about.  If the hole had been made by an explosion from below large
+pieces of rock from each one of the different rock strata would have
+been thrown out; but, while as just stated, there are plenty of huge
+blocks of red sandstone and limestone, there are no large pieces of
+white sandstone.  After the superficial layers of rock had been broken
+up and expelled en masse, the deeper rock of white sandstone, being
+more confined, could not reach the surface in the shape of boulders,
+but had first to be broken up and ground to powder before it could
+escape.  Then the white sandstones in the form of fine sand was blown
+skywards by the collision and afterwards settled down upon the
+mountain.  The mountain is covered with this white sand, which could
+only have come out of the big hole as there is no other white sand or
+sandstone found anywhere else upon the entire plain.
+
+In the vicinity of the mountain about ten tons of meteorites have been
+found, varying in size from the fraction of an ounce to one thousand
+pounds or more.  Most of the meteorites were found by Mr. Volz, who
+searched diligently every foot of ground for miles around.  The smaller
+pieces were picked up on or near the rim, and they increased in size in
+proportion as they were distant from the mountain until, on a circle
+eight miles out, the largest piece was found.  Meteorites were found
+upon all sides of the mountain but they seemed to be thickest on the
+east side.
+
+The writer first visited the mountain in the summer of 1901 and it was
+the greatest surprise of his six weeks' trip sightseeing in northern
+Arizona where are found many natural wonders.  He was fortunate enough
+to find a three pound meteorite within five minutes after arriving on
+the rim, which Mr. Volz said was the first specimen found by anyone in
+over four years.
+
+Professor G. K. Gilbert of the United States Geological Survey visited
+the mountain several years ago to investigate the phenomenon and, if
+possible, to determine its origin by scientific test.  He gave the
+results of his researches in a very able and comprehensive address,[1]
+delivered before the Geological Society of Washington, D.C.  The
+existing conditions did not seem to fit his theories, and he concluded
+his work without arriving at any definite conclusion.
+
+After disposing of several hypotheses as being incompetent to prove the
+origin of the mountain he decided to try the magnetic test.  He assumed
+that if such a meteorite was buried there the large mass of metallic
+iron must indicate its presence by magnetic attraction.  By means of
+the latest scientific apparatus he conducted an elaborate magnetic
+experiment which gave only negative results.
+
+He discussed at length the various hypotheses which might explain the
+origin of the crater and concluded his notable address as follows:
+
+"Still another contribution to the subject, while it does not increase
+the number of hypotheses, is nevertheless important in that it tends to
+diminish the weight of the magnetic evidence and thus to reopen the
+question which Mr. Baker and I supposed we had settled.  Our
+fellow-member, Mr. Edwin E. Howell, through whose hands much of the
+meteoric iron had passed, points out that each of the iron masses,
+great and small, is in itself a complete individual.  They have none of
+the characters that would be found if they had been broken one from
+another, and yet, as they are all of one type and all reached the earth
+within a small district, it must be supposed that they were originally
+connected in some way.
+
+"Reasoning by analogy from the characters of other meteoric bodies, he
+infers that the irons were all included in a large mass of some
+different material, either crystalline rock, such as constitutes the
+class of meteorites called 'stony,' or else a compound of iron and
+sulphur, similar to certain nodules discovered inside the iron masses
+when sawn in two.  Neither of these materials is so enduring as iron,
+and the fact that they are not now found on the plain does not prove
+their original absence.  Moreover, the plain is strewn in the vicinity
+of the crater with bits of limonite, a mineral frequently produced by
+the action of air and water on iron sulphides, and this material is
+much more abundant than the iron.  If it be true that the iron masses
+were thus imbedded, like plums in an astral pudding, the hypothetic
+buried star might have great size and yet only small power to attract
+the magnetic needle.  Mr. Howell also proposes a qualification of the
+test by volumes, suggesting that some of the rocks beneath the buried
+star might have been condensed by the shock so as to occupy less space.
+
+"These considerations are eminently pertinent to the study of the
+crater and will find appropriate place in any comprehensive discussion
+of its origin; but the fact which is peculiarly worthy of note at the
+present time is their ability to unsettle a conclusion that was
+beginning to feel itself secure.  This illustrates the tentative nature
+not only of the hypotheses of science, but of what science calls its
+results.
+
+"The method of hypotheses, and that method is the method of science,
+founds its explanations of nature wholly on observed facts, and its
+results are ever subject to the limitations imposed by imperfect
+observation.  However grand, however widely accepted, however useful
+its conclusions, none is so sure that it cannot be called into question
+by a newly discovered fact.  In the domain of the world's knowledge
+there is no infallibility."
+
+After Prof. Gilbert had finished his experiments, Mr. Volz tried some
+of his own along the same line.  He found upon trial that the
+meteorites in his possession were non-magnetic, or, practically so.  If
+these, being pieces of the larger meteorite which was buried in the
+hole, were non-magnetic, all of it must be non-magnetic, which would
+account for the failure of the needle to act or manifest any magnetic
+attraction in the greater test.
+
+Mr. Volz also made another interesting discovery in this same
+connection.  All over the meteorite zone are scattered about small
+pieces of iron which he calls "iron shale."  It is analogous to the
+true meteorite, but is "burnt" or "dead."  He regards these bits of
+iron as dead sparks from a celestial forge, which fell from the
+meteorite as it blazed through the heavens.
+
+In experimenting with the stuff he found that it was not only highly
+magnetic, but also possessed polarity in a marked degree; and was
+entirely different from the true meteorite.  Here was a curiosity,
+indeed; a small, insignificant and unattractive stone possessed of
+strong magnetic polarity, a property of electricity that is as
+mysterious and incomprehensible as is electricity itself.
+
+Another peculiarity of Canon Diablo meteorite is that it contains
+diamonds.  When the meteorite was first discovered by a Mexican sheep
+herder he supposed that he had found a large piece of silver, because
+of its great weight and luster, but he was soon informed of his
+mistake.  Not long afterwards a white prospector who heard of the
+discovery undertook to use it to his own advantage, by claiming that he
+had found a mine of pure iron, which he offered for sale.  In an
+attempt to dispose of the property samples of the ore were sent east
+for investigation.  Some of the stone fell into the hands of Dr. Foote,
+who pronounced it to be meteorite and of celestial origin.
+
+Sir William Crookes in discussing the theory of the meteoric origin of
+diamonds[2] says "the most striking confirmation of the meteoric theory
+comes from Arizona.  Here, on a broad open plain, over an area about
+five miles in diameter, were scattered from one to two thousand masses
+of metallic iron, the fragments varying in weight from half a ton to a
+fraction of an ounce.  There is little doubt that these masses formed
+part of a meteorite shower, although no record exists as to when the
+fall took place.  Curiously enough, near the center, where most of the
+meteoritics have been found, is a crater with raised edges three
+quarters of a mile in diameter and about six hundred feet deep, bearing
+exactly the appearance which would be produced had a mighty mass of
+iron or falling star struck the ground, scattering in all directions,
+and buried itself deep under the surface.  Altogether ten tons of this
+iron have been collected, and specimens of Canyon Diablo Meteorite are
+in most collectors' cabinets.
+
+"An ardent mineralogist, the late Dr. Foote, in cutting a section of
+this meteorite, found the tools were injured by something vastly harder
+than metallic iron, and an emery wheel used in grinding the iron had
+been ruined.  He examined the specimen chemically, and soon after
+announced to the scientific world that the Canyon Diablo Meteorite
+contained black and transparent diamonds.  This startling discovery was
+afterwards verified by Professors Friedel and Moissan, who found that
+the Canyon Diablo Meteorite contained the three varieties of
+carbon--diamond (transparent and black), graphite and amorphous carbon.
+Since this revelation the search for diamonds in meteorites has
+occupied the attention of chemists all over the world.
+
+"Here, then, we have absolute proof of the truth of the meteoric
+theory.  Under atmospheric influences the iron would rapidly oxidize
+and rust away, coloring the adjacent soil with red oxide of iron.  The
+meteoric diamonds would be unaffected and left on the surface to be
+found by explorers when oxidation had removed the last proof of their
+celestial origin.  That there are still lumps of iron left in Arizona
+is merely due to the extreme dryness of the climate and the
+comparatively short time that the iron has been on our planet.  We are
+here witnesses to the course of an event which may have happened in
+geologic times anywhere on the earth's surface."
+
+About a year ago several mineral claims were located in the crater by a
+company of scientific and moneyed men.  The required assessment work
+was done and a patent for the land obtained from the government.  The
+object of the enterprise is for a double purpose, if possible to solve
+the mystery of the mountain, and if successful in finding the
+"hypothetic buried star" to excavate and appropriate it for its
+valuable iron.
+
+A shaft has been sunk one hundred and ninety-five feet deep, where a
+strong flow of water was encountered in a bed of white sand which
+temporarily stopped the work.  A gasoline engine and drill were
+procured and put in operation and the drill was driven down forty feet
+further when it stuck fast in white quicksand.  It is the intention of
+the company to continue the work and carry it on to a successful finish.
+
+Nothing of value was found in the hole dug, but some of the workmen in
+their leisure hours found on the surface two large meteorites weighing
+one hundred and one hundred and fifty pounds respectively, besides a
+number of smaller fragments.
+
+The Meteorite Mountain is in a class by itself and is, in a way, as
+great a curiosity as is the Grand Canon.  It is little known and has
+not received the attention that it deserves.  It is, indeed, marvelous
+and only needs to be seen to be appreciated.
+
+
+[1] The Origin of Hypotheses. 1895.
+
+[2] Diamonds.  Wm. Crookes, F.R.S. Smithsonian Report. 1897.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE CLIFF DWELLERS
+
+In the canons of the Colorado river and its tributaries are found the
+ruins of an ancient race of cliff dwellers.  These ruins are numerous
+and are scattered over a wide scope of country, which includes Arizona
+and portions of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.  Many of them are yet in
+a good state of preservation, but all show the marks of age and decay.
+They are not less than four hundred years old and are, in all
+probability, much older.  Their preservation is largely due to their
+sheltered position among the rocks and an exceptionally dry climate.
+
+The houses are invariably built upon high cliffs on shelving rocks in
+places that are almost inaccessible.  In some instances they can only
+be reached by steps cut into the solid rock, which are so old and worn
+that they are almost obliterated.  Their walls so nearly resemble the
+stratified rocks upon which they stand, that they are not easily
+distinguished from their surroundings.
+
+The cliffs are often sloping, sometimes overhanging, but more
+frequently perpendicular.  The weather erosion of many centuries has
+caused the softer strata of exposed rocks in the cliffs to disintegrate
+and fall away, which left numberless caverns wherein this ancient and
+mysterious people chose to build their eyrie homes to live with the
+eagles.  The houses are built of all shapes and sizes and, apparently,
+were planned to fit the irregular and limited space of their
+environment.  Circular watch towers look down from commanding heights
+which, from their shape and position, were evidently intended to serve
+the double purpose of observation and defense.
+
+In the search for evidence of their antiquity it is believed that data
+has been found which denotes great age.  In the construction of some of
+their houses, notably those in the Mancos Canon, is displayed a
+technical knowledge of architecture and a mathematical accuracy which
+savages do not possess; and the fine masonry of dressed stone and
+superior cement seem to prove that Indians were not the builders.  On
+the contrary, to quote a recent writer, "The evidence goes to show that
+the work was done by skilled workmen who were white masons and who
+built for white people in a prehistoric age."  In this connection it is
+singular, if not significant, that the natives when first discovered
+believed in a bearded white man whom they deified as the Fair God of
+whose existence they had obtained knowledge from some source and in
+whose honor they kept their sacred altar fires burning unquenched.
+
+The relics that have been found in the ruins are principally implements
+of the stone age, but are of sufficient variety to indicate a
+succession of races that were both primitive and cultured and as widely
+separated in time as in knowledge.
+
+The cliff dwellings were not only the abodes of their original
+builders, but were occupied and deserted successively by the chipped
+stone implement maker, the polisher of hard stone, the basket maker and
+the weaver.
+
+Among the relics that have been found in the ruins are some very fine
+specimens of pottery which are as symmetrical and well finished as if
+they had been turned on a potter's wheel, and covered with an opaque
+enamel of stanniferous glaze composed of lead and tin that originated
+with the Phoenicians, and is as old as history.  Can it be possible
+that the cliff dwellers are a lost fragment of Egyptian civilization?
+
+The cliff ruins in Arizona are not only found in the canons of the
+Colorado river, but also in many other places.  The finest of them are
+Montezuma's Castle on Beaver creek, and the Casa Blanca in Canon de
+Chelly.  Numerous other ruins are found on the Rio Verde, Gila river,
+Walnut Canon and elsewhere.
+
+The largest and finest group of cliff dwellings are those on the Mesa
+Verde in Colorado.  They are fully described in the great work[1] of
+Nordenskiold, who spent much time among them.  The different houses are
+named after some peculiarity of appearance or construction, like the
+Cliff Palace, which contains more than one hundred rooms, Long House,
+Balcony House, Spruce Tree House, etc.
+
+He obtained a large quantity of relics, which are also fully described,
+consisting of stone implements, pottery, cotton and feather cloth,
+osier and palmillo mats, yucca sandals, weaving sticks, bone awls, corn
+and beans.
+
+Many well-preserved mummies were found buried in graves that were
+carefully closed and sealed.  The bodies were wrapped in a fine cotton
+cloth of drawn work, which was covered by a coarser cloth resembling
+burlap, and all inclosed in a wrapping of palmillo matting tied with a
+cord made of the fiber of cedar bark.  The hair is fine and of a brown
+color, and not coarse and black like the hair of the wild Indians.
+Mummies have been exhumed that have red or light colored hair such as
+usually goes with a fair skin.  This fact has led some to believe that
+the cliff dwellers belonged to the white race, but not necessarily so,
+as this quality of hair also belongs to albinos, who doubtless lived
+among the cliff dwellers as they do among the Moquis and Zunis at the
+present day, and explains the peculiarity of hair just mentioned.
+
+These remains may be very modern, as some choose to believe, but, in
+all probability, they are more ancient than modern.  Mummies encased in
+wood and cloth have been taken from the tombs of Egypt in an almost
+perfect state of preservation which cannot be less than two thousand
+years old, and are, perhaps, more than double that age.  As there is no
+positive knowledge as to when the cliff dwellers flourished, one man's
+guess on the subject is as good as another's.
+
+An important discovery was recently made near Mancos, Colorado, where a
+party of explorers found in some old cliff dwellings graves beneath
+graves that were entirely different from anything yet discovered.  They
+were egg-shaped, built of stone and plastered smoothly with clay.  They
+contained mummies, cloth, sandals, beads and various other trinkets.
+There was no pottery, but many well-made baskets, and their owners have
+been called the basket makers.  There was also a difference in the
+skulls found.  The cliff dwellers' skull is short and flattened behind,
+while the skulls that were found in these old graves were long, narrow
+and round on the back.[2]
+
+Rev. H. M. Baum, who has traveled all over the southwest and visited
+every large ruin in the country, considers that Canon de Chelly and its
+branch, del Muerto, is the most interesting prehistoric locality in the
+United States.  The Navajos, who now live in the canon, have a
+tradition that the people who occupied the old cliff houses were all
+destroyed in one day by a wind of fire.[3] The occurrence, evidently,
+was similar to what happened recently on the island of Martinique, when
+all the inhabitants of the village of St. Pierre perished in an hour by
+the eruption of Mont Pelee.
+
+Contemporaneous with the cliff dwellers there seems to have lived a
+race of people in the adjoining valleys who built cities and tilled the
+soil. Judged by their works they must have been an industrious,
+intelligent and numerous people.  All over the ground are strewn broken
+pieces of pottery that are painted in bright colors and artistic
+designs which, after ages of exposure to the weather, look as fresh as
+if newly made, The relics that have been taken from the ruins are
+similar to those found in the cliff houses, and consist mostly of stone
+implements and pottery.
+
+In the Gila valley, near the town of Florence, stands the now famous
+Casa Grande ruin, which is the best preserved of all these ancient
+cities.  It was a ruin when the Spaniards first discovered it, and is a
+type of the ancient communal house.  Its thick walls are composed of a
+concrete adobe that is as hard as rock, and its base lines conform to
+the cardinal points of, the compass.   It is an interesting relic of a
+past age and an extinct race and, if it cannot yield up its secrets to
+science, it at least appeals to the spirit of romance and mystery.
+
+Irrigating ditches which were fed from reservoirs supplied their fields
+and houses with water.  Portions of these old canals are yet in
+existence and furnish proof of the diligence and skill of their
+builders.  The ditches were located on levels that could not be
+improved upon for utilizing the land and water to the best advantage.
+Modern engineers have not been able to better them and in many places
+the old levels are used in new ditches at the present time.
+
+Whatever may have been the fate of this ancient people their
+destruction must be sought in natural causes rather than by human
+warfare.  An adverse fate probably cut off their water supply and laid
+waste their productive fields.  With their crops a failure and all
+supplies gone what else could the people do but either starve or move,
+but as to the nature of the exodus history is silent.
+
+Just how ancient these works are might be difficult to prove, but they
+are certainly not modern.  The evidence denotes that they have existed
+a long time.  Where the water in a canal flowed over solid rock the
+rock has been much worn.  Portions of the old ditches are filled with
+lava and houses lie buried in the vitreous flood.  It is certain that
+the country was inhabited prior to the last lava flow whether that
+event occurred hundreds or thousands of years ago.
+
+It is claimed that the Pueblo Indians and cliff dwellers are identical
+and that the latter were driven from their peaceful valley homes by a
+hostile foe to find temporary shelter among the rocks, but such a
+conclusion seems to be erroneous in view of certain facts.
+
+The cliff dwellings were not temporary camps, as such a migration would
+imply, but places of permanent abode.  The houses are too numerous and
+well constructed to be accounted for on any other hypothesis.  A people
+fleeing periodically to the cliffs to escape from an enemy could not
+have built such houses.  Indeed, they are simply marvelous when
+considered as to location and construction.  The time that must
+necessarily have been consumed in doing the work and the amount of
+danger and labor involved--labor in preparing and getting the material
+into place and danger in scaling the dizzy heights over an almost
+impassible trail, it seems the boldest assumption to assert that the
+work was done by a fleeing and demoralized mob.
+
+Again, it would be a physical impossibility for a people who were only
+accustomed to agricultural pursuits to suddenly and completely change
+their habits of life such as living among the rocks would necessitate.
+Only by native instinct and daily practice from childhood would it be
+possible for any people to follow the narrow and difficult paths which
+were habitually traveled by the cliff dwellers.  It requires a clear
+head and steady nerves to perform the daring feat in safety--to the
+truth of which statement modern explorers can testify who have made the
+attempt in recent years at the peril of life and limb while engaged in
+searching for archaeological treasures.
+
+Judged by the everyday life that is familiar to us it seems incredible
+that houses should ever have been built or homes established in such
+hazardous places, or that any people should have ever lived there.  But
+that they did is an established fact as there stand the houses which
+were built and occupied by human beings in the midst of surroundings
+that might appall the stoutest heart.  Children played and men and
+women wrought on the brink of frightful precipices in a space so
+limited and dangerous that a single misstep made it fatal.
+
+It is almost impossible to conceive of any condition in life, or
+combination of circumstances in the affairs of men, that should drive
+any people to the rash act of living in the houses of the cliff
+dwellers.  Men will sometimes do from choice what they cannot be made
+to do by compulsion.  It is easier to believe that the cliff dwellers,
+being free people, chose of their own accord the site of their
+habitation rather than that from any cause they were compelled to make
+the choice.  Their preference was to live upon the cliffs, as they were
+fitted by nature for such an environment.
+
+For no other reason, apparently, do the Moquis live upon their rocky
+and barren mesas away from everything which the civilized white man
+deems desirable, yet, in seeming contentment.  The Supais, likewise,
+choose to live alone at the bottom of Cataract Canon where they are
+completely shut in by high cliffs.  Their only road out is by a narrow
+and dangerous trail up the side of the canon, which is little traveled
+as they seldom leave home and are rarely visited.
+
+To affirm that the cliff dwellers were driven from their strongholds
+and dispersed by force is pure fiction, nor is there any evidence to
+support such a theory.  That they had enemies no one doubts, but, being
+in possession of an impregnable position where one man could
+successfully withstand a thousand, to surrender would have been base
+cowardice, and weakness was not a characteristic of the cliff dwellers.
+
+The question of their subsistence is likewise a puzzle.  They evidently
+cultivated the soil where it was practicable to do so as fragments of
+farm products have been found in their dwellings, but in the vicinity
+of some of the houses there is no tillable land and the inhabitants
+must have depended upon other means for support.  The wild game which
+was, doubtless, abundant furnished them with meat and edible seeds,
+fruits and roots from native plants like the pinon pine and mesquite
+which together with the saguaro and mescal, supplied them with a
+variety of food sufficient for their subsistence as they do, in a
+measure, the wild Indian tribes of that region at the present day.
+
+
+[1] The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde, by F. Nordenskiold,
+Stockholm. 1893.
+
+[2] An Elder Brother of the Cliff Dwellers, by T. M. Prudden, M.D.
+Harper's Magazine, June, 1897.
+
+[3] Pueblo and Cliff Dwellers of the Southwest.  Records of the Past,
+December, 1902.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+THE MOQUI INDIANS
+
+The Indians of Arizona are, perhaps, the most interesting of any of the
+American aborigines.  They are as unique and picturesque as is the land
+which they inhabit; and the dead are no less so than the living.
+
+The Pueblo Indians, with which the Moquis are classed, number
+altogether about ten thousand and are scattered in twenty-six villages
+over Arizona and New Mexico.  They resemble each other in many
+respects, but do not all speak the same language.  They represent
+several wholly disconnected stems and are classified linguistically by
+Brinton as belonging to the Uto-Aztecan, Kera, Tehua and Zuni stocks.
+He believes that the Pueblo civilization is not due to any one
+unusually gifted lineage, but is altogether a local product, developed
+in independent tribes by their peculiar environment, which is favorable
+to agriculture and sedentary pursuits.[1]
+
+The houses are constructed of stone and adobe, are several stories high
+and contain many apartments.  None of the existing pueblos are as large
+as some that are in ruins which, judging by the quantity of debris,
+must have been huge affairs.  Since the advent of the Spaniard the
+style of building has changed somewhat to conform to modern ideas, so
+that now some families live in separate one-story houses having doors
+and windows, instead, as formerly, only in large communal houses that
+were built and conducted on the communal plan.
+
+Their manners and customs are peculiar to themselves and make an
+interesting study.  Their civilization is entirely original, though
+modified to some extent by centuries of contact with the whites.  They
+understand the Spanish language, but have not forgotten their mother
+tongue.  They hold tenaciously to their old customs and have not
+changed materially during the past four hundred years.
+
+During that time the Catholic missionaries endeavored to convert them
+to Christianity, but with only partial success.  While they appeared to
+acquiesce, by giving formal obedience to the requirements of the new
+religion, they yet held sacred their old beliefs and in the privacy of
+the estufa practiced in secret the rites and ceremonies of their
+ancient faith.
+
+The Spaniards undertook to conquer a free and independent people by
+teaching them dependence and submission, but signally failed.  After a
+struggle of two hundred and eighty years Spanish civilization withdrew
+and left the Pueblo civilization victorious.
+
+Under successive Spanish, Mexican and American rule the Pueblo has
+preserved itself intact which fact stamps the Pueblo people as being
+eminently valiant, self-reliant and persevering.  They are peaceable,
+industrious and hospitable and are said to be the best governed people
+in the world.  As nearly as can be ascertained they are free from every
+gross vice and crime and Mr. C. F. Lummis, who knows them well,
+believes them to be a crimeless people.
+
+The Moquis of Arizona are the most primitive of the Pueblo Indians and
+are worthy representatives of their race.  They are of the Aztecan
+branch of the Shoshonean family and probably the lineal descendents of
+the cliff dwellers.  Their home is on the Painted Desert in
+northeastern Arizona where they have lived for many centuries.  It is a
+barren and desolate spot and has been likened to Hades with its fires
+extinguished.  Nevertheless it is an exceedingly interesting region and
+furnishes many attractions.  The landscape is highly picturesque and
+the phantasmagoric effects of the rarified atmosphere are bewitching.
+
+In the early Spanish days Moqui land was designated as the Province of
+Tusayan and was shrouded in mystery.  The seven Moqui towns were at one
+time regarded as the seven Cities of Cibola, but later it was decided
+that Zuni and not Moqui was the true Cibola.
+
+When Coronado, at the head of his intrepid army, marched through the
+land in the year 1540, he procured native guides to aid him in
+exploring the country, hoping to find fabulous wealth which failed to
+materialize.  He heard of a race of giants whom he wished to meet, but
+instead of finding them discovered a river with banks so high that they
+"seemed to be raised three or four leagues into the air."  What he saw
+was the Colorado River with its gigantic canon walls and wealth of
+architectural grandeur and beauty.  The bewildering sight naturally
+astonished him as it does every beholder.  Think of a fissure in the
+earth over a mile deep!  But the Grand Canon of Arizona is more that a
+simple fissure in the earth.  It is composed of many canons which form
+a seemingly endless labyrinth of winding aisles and majestic
+avenues--fit promenades for the Gods.
+
+The land of the Moquinos is full of surprises and, although they are
+not all as startling as the Grand Canon, they are sufficiently striking
+to make Arizona a wonderland that is second to none on the continent.
+
+The Moquis live in seven towns or pueblos which are built upon three
+rocky mesas that are many miles apart.  The mesas are about seven
+thousand feet above sea level and from six to eight hundred feet higher
+than the surrounding plain.  Upon the first or eastern mesa are located
+the three towns of Te-wa, Si-chom-ovi and Wal-pi.  Tewa is the newest
+of the three towns and was built by the Tehuan allies who came as
+refugees from the Rio Grande after the great rebellion of 1680.  They
+were granted permission to build on the spot by agreeing to defend the
+Gap, where the trail leaves the mesa, against all intruders.
+
+Upon the second or middle mesa are the towns of Mi-shong-novi,
+Shi-pauli-ovi and Shong-o-pavi; and on the third mesa is O-rai-bi,
+which is the largest of the Moqui villages, and equal to the other six
+in size and population.  The entire population of the seven Moqui towns
+numbers about two thousand souls.
+
+In 1583 Espejo estimated that the Moquis numbered fifty thousand,
+which, doubtless, was an over estimate, as he has been accused of
+exaggeration.  However, since their discovery their numbers have
+greatly diminished and steadily continue to decrease, as if it were
+also to be their fate to become extinct like the ancient cliff dwellers.
+
+The Moqui Pueblos are well protected by natural barriers upon all sides
+except towards the south.  Perched upon their high mesas the people
+have been safe from every attack of an enemy, but their fields and
+flocks in the valley below were defenseless.  The top of the several
+mesas can only be reached by ascending steep and difficult trails which
+are hard to climb but easy to defend.  The paths on the mesas have been
+cut deep into the hard rock, which were worn by the soft tread of
+moccasined feet during centuries of travel, numbering, perhaps, several
+times the four hundred years that are known to history.
+
+The houses are built of stone and mortar, and rise in terraces from one
+to five stories high, back from a street or court to a sheer wall.
+Some of the remodeled and newly built houses have modern doors and
+windows.  The upper stories are reached from the outside by ladders and
+stone stairways built into the walls.  The rooms are smoothly plastered
+and whitewashed and the houses are kept tidy and clean, but the streets
+are dirty and unsanitary.
+
+In these sky cities the Moquis live a retired life that is well suited
+to their quiet dispositions, love of home life and tireless industry.
+The men are kind, the women virtuous and the children obedient.
+Indeed, the children are unusually well behaved.  They seldom quarrel
+or cry, and a spoiled child cannot be found among them.  The Moquis
+love peace, and never fight among themselves.  If a dispute occurs it
+is submitted to a peace council of old men, whose decision is final and
+obeyed without a murmur.
+
+They are shy and suspicious of strangers, but if addressed by the magic
+word lolomi, their reserve is instantly gone.  It is the open sesame to
+their hearts and homes, and after that the house contains nothing too
+good to bestow upon the welcome guest.  They are true children of
+nature, and have not yet become corrupted by the vices of white
+civilization.  The worst thing they do is that the men smoke tobacco.
+
+Their industries are few, but afford sufficient income to provide for
+their modest needs.  They are primarily tillers of the soil, and as
+agriculturists succeed under circumstances that would wholly baffle and
+discourage an eastern farmer.  Several years ago a man was sent out
+from Washington to teach the Moquis agriculture, but before a year had
+passed the teacher had to buy corn from the Indians.  They make baskets
+and pottery, weave cloth and dress skins for their own use and to
+barter in trade with their neighbors.  They like silver and have
+skilled workmen who make the white metal into beads and buttons and
+various trinkets for personal adornment.  They care nothing for gold,
+and silver is their only money.  Chalchihuitl is their favorite gem and
+to own a turquoise stone is regarded as an  omen of good fortune to the
+happy possessor.
+
+Just how the Spaniards got the notion that the Moquis loved gold and
+possessed vast stores of that precious metal is not apparent unless it
+be, as Bandelier suggests, that it originated in the myth of the El
+Dorado, or Gilded Man.[2] The story started at Lake Guatanita in
+Bogota, and traveled north to Quivera, but the wealth that the
+Spaniards sought they never found.  Their journey led them over deserts
+that gave them but little food and only a meager supply of water, and
+ended in disaster.
+
+The mesas are all rock and utterly barren, and their supplies are all
+brought from a distance over difficult trails.  The water is carried in
+ollas by the women from springs at the foot of the mesa; wood is packed
+on burros from distant forests; and corn, melons and peaches are
+brought home by the men when they return from their work in the fields.
+A less active and industrious people, under similar circumstances,
+would soon starve to death, but the Moquis are self-supporting and have
+never asked nor received any help from Uncle Sam.
+
+In the early morning the public crier proclaims in stentorian tones
+from the housetop the program for the day, which sends everyone to his
+daily task.  They are inured to labor and do not count work as a
+hardship.  It is only by incessant toil that they succeed at all in
+earning a living with the scanty resources at their command, and the
+only surprise is that they succeed so well.  There is scarcely an hour
+during the day or night that men and women are not either coming or
+going on some errand to provision the home.
+
+The men travel many miles every day going to and from their work in the
+fields.  If a man owns a burro he sometimes rides, but usually prefers
+to walk.  What the burro does not pack, the man carries on his back.
+He often sings at his work, just as the white man does in any farming
+community, and his song sounds good.
+
+The burro is the common carrier and, because of his sterling qualities,
+is a prime favorite in all of the pueblos.  If he has any faults they
+are all condoned except one, that of theft.  If he is caught eating in
+a corn field he is punished as a thief by having one of his ears cut
+off; and if the offense is repeated he loses his other ear in the same
+manner.
+
+The area of tillable land is limited and is found only in small
+patches, which cause the farms to be widely scattered.  The soil is
+mostly sand which the wind drifts into dunes that sometimes cover and
+destroy the growing crops.  The peach trees are often buried in sand or
+only their top branches remain visible.  There are no running streams
+of water and rains are infrequent.
+
+Corn is the principal crop and support of the Moquis.  If there is a
+good crop the surplus is stored away and kept to be used in the future
+should a crop fail.  The corn is planted in irregular hills and
+cultivated with a hoe.  It is dropped into deep holes made with a stick
+and covered up.  There is always enough moisture in the sand to sprout
+the seed which, aided by an occasional shower, causes it to grow and
+mature a crop.  The corn is of a hardy, native variety that needs but
+little water to make it grow.  The grain is small and hard like popcorn
+and ripens in several colors.
+
+It is carried home from the field by the men, and ground into meal by
+the women.  The sound of the grinding is heard in the street and is
+usually accompanied by a song that sounds weird but musical.  The meal
+is ground into different grades of fineness and when used for bread is
+mixed with water to form a thin batter which is spread by the hand upon
+a hot, flat stone.  It is quickly baked and makes a thin wafer that is
+no thicker than paper.  When done it is removed from the stone by the
+naked hand and is rolled or folded into loaves which makes their prized
+pici bread.  It is said to be only one of fifty different methods which
+the Moquis have of preparing corn for the table, or about twice the
+number of styles known to any modern chef.
+
+The Moqui woman is favored above many of her sex who live in foreign
+lands.  As a child she receives much attention and toys galore, as the
+parents are very fond of their children and devote much time to their
+amusement.  They make dolls of their Katcinas which are given to the
+children to play with.  A Katcina is the emblem of a deity that is
+represented either in the form of a doll carved out of wood, woven into
+a plaque or basket, or painted on tiles and pottery.  There are between
+three and four hundred Katcina dolls each one representing a different
+divinity.  When a doll is given to a child it is taught what it means,
+thus combining instruction with amusement.  The method is a perfect
+system of kindergarten teaching, which the Moquis invented and used
+centuries before the idea occurred to Froebel.
+
+When the girl is ten years old her education properly begins and she is
+systematically inducted into the mysteries of housekeeping.  At fifteen
+she has completed her curriculum and can cook, bake, sew, dye, spin and
+weave and is, indeed, graduated in all the accomplishments of the
+finished Moqui maiden.  She now does up her hair in two large coils or
+whorls, one on each side of the head, which is meant to resemble a
+full-blown squash blossom and signifies that the wearer is of
+marriageable age and in the matrimonial market.  It gives her a
+striking yet not unbecoming appearance, and, if her style of coiffure
+were adopted by modern fashion it would be something unusually
+attractive.  As represented by Donaldson in the eleventh census report
+the handsome face of Pootitcie, a maiden of the pueblo of Sichomovi,
+makes a pretty picture that even her white sisters must admire.  After
+marriage the hair is let down and done up in two hard twists that fall
+over the shoulders.  This form represents a ripe, dried squash blossom
+and means fruitfulness.
+
+Her dress is not Spanish nor yet altogether Indian, but is simple,
+comfortable and becoming, which is more than can be said of some
+civilized costumes.  She chooses her own husband, inherits her mother's
+name and property and owns the house in which she lives.  Instead of
+the man owning and bossing everything, as he so dearly loves to do in
+our own civilization, the property and labor of the Moqui husband and
+wife are equally divided, the former owning and tending the fields and
+flocks and the latter possessing and governing the house.
+
+The Moquis are famous for their games, dances and festivals, which have
+been fully described by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes in various reports to the
+Smithsonian Institution.  They have many secret orders, worship the
+supernatural, and believe in witchcraft.  Their great fete day is the
+Snake Dance, which is held in alternate years at Walpi and Oraibi, at
+the former place in the odd year and at the latter place in the even
+year, some time during the month of August.  It is purely a religious
+ceremony, an elaborate supplication for rain, and is designed to
+propitiate the water god or snake deity.
+
+Preliminary ceremonies are conducted in the secret Kiva several days
+preceding the public dance.  The Kiva is an underground chamber that is
+cut out of the solid rock, and is entered by a ladder.  It has but a
+single opening on top on a level with the street, which serves as door,
+window and chimney.  The room is only used by the men, and is, in fact,
+a lodge room, where the members of the several secret orders meet and
+engage in their solemn ceremonials.  It is a sacred place, a holy of
+holies, which none but members of a lodge may enter, and is carefully
+guarded.
+
+The snakes used in the dance are all wild, and captured out on the open
+plain.  Four days prior to the dance the snake men, dressed in scanty
+attire and equipped with their snake-capturing paraphernalia, march out
+in squads and scour the surrounding country in search of snakes.  One
+day each is spent in searching the ground towards the four points of
+the compass, in the order of north, west, south and east, returning at
+the close of each day with their catch to the Kiva, where the snakes
+are kept and prepared for the dance.  The snakes caught are of several
+varieties, but much the largest number are rattlesnakes.  Respect is
+shown for serpents of every variety and none are ever intentionally
+harmed, but the rattlesnake is considered the most sacred and is
+proportionately esteemed.  Its forked tongue represents lightning, its
+rattle thunder and its spots rain-clouds.  The number of snakes they
+find is surprising, as they catch from one to two hundred during the
+four days' hunt on ground that might be carefully searched by white men
+for months without finding a single reptile.
+
+The snake men are very expert in catching and handling serpents, and
+are seldom bitten.  If one is bitten it is nothing serious, as they
+have a secret medicine which they use that is both prophylactic and
+curative, and makes them immune to the poison so that no harm ever
+results from a bite.  The medicine is taken internally and also applied
+locally.  Efforts have been made to discover its composition but
+without success.  If a snake is located which shows fight by the act of
+coiling it is tickled with a snake-whip made of eagle's feathers, which
+soon soothes its anger and causes it to uncoil and try to run away.  It
+is then quickly and safely caught up and dropped from the hand into a
+bag carried for that purpose.
+
+Visitors who attend the dance are under no restrictions, but are free
+to come and go as they please, either sightseeing or in search of
+curios.  If the visitor has a supply of candy, matches and
+smoking-tobacco to give away he finds frequent opportunities to bestow
+his gifts.  The children ask for "canty," the women want "matchi," and
+the men are pleased with a "smoke."
+
+On the morning of the dance both the men and women give their hair an
+extra washing by using a mixture of water and crushed soap-root.  The
+white fibers of the soap-root get mixed with the hair, which gives it a
+tinge of iron gray.  The children also get a bath which, because of the
+great scarcity of water, is not of daily occurrence.
+
+To the Moquis the snake dance is a serious and solemn affair, but to
+the visitors it is apt to be an occasion for fun and frolic.  Owing to
+a misunderstanding of its true meaning, and because of misconduct in
+the past on similar occasions, notice is posted on the Kiva asking
+visitors to abstain from loud laughing and talking.  In other words it
+is a polite request made by the rude red man of his polished (?) white
+brother to please behave himself.
+
+The dance begins late in the afternoon and lasts less than one hour,
+but while it is in progress the action is intense.  The snakes are
+carried in a bag or jar from the Kiva to the Kisa, built of cotton-wood
+boughs on one side of the plaza, where the snakes are banded out to the
+dancers.  After much marching and countermarching about the plaza,
+chanting weird songs and shaking rattles, the column of snake priests,
+dressed in a fantastic garb of paint, fur and feathers, halts in front
+of the Kisa and breaks up into groups of three.
+
+The carrier takes a snake from the Kisa puts it in his mouth, and
+carries it there while dancing.  Some of the more ambitious young men
+will carry two or more of the smaller snakes at the same time.  The
+hugger throws his left arm over the shoulder of the carrier and with
+his right hand fans the snake with his feather whip.  The gatherer
+follows after and picks up the snakes as they fall to the ground.
+
+After the snakes have all been danced they are thrown into a heap and
+sprinkled with sacred corn meal by the young women.  The scattering of
+the meal is accompanied by a shower of spittle from the spectators, who
+are stationed on, convenient roofs and ladders viewing the ceremony.
+Fleet runners now catch up the snakes in handfuls and dash off in an
+exciting race over the mesa and down rocky trails to the plains below
+where the snakes are returned unharmed to their native haunts.
+
+While the men are away disposing of the reptiles the women carry out
+large ollas, or jars, filled with a black liquid, which is the snake
+medicine that is used in the final act of purification by washing.
+When the men return to the mesa they remove their regalias and proceed
+to drink of the snake medicine which acts as an emetic.  With the
+remainder of the concoction, and assisted by the women, they wash their
+bodies free from paint.  After the men are all washed and puked they
+re-enter the Kiva, where the long fast is broken by a feast and the
+formal ceremonies of the snake dance are ended.
+
+The snake dance is annually witnessed by many visitors who gather from
+different sections of the country and even foreign lands.  As there are
+no hotels to entertain guests every visitor must provide his own outfit
+for conveyance, eating and sleeping.  Even water is scarce.  Local
+springs barely furnish enough water to supply the native population;
+and when the number of people to be supplied is increased from one to
+two hundred by the visitors who attend the dance, the water question
+becomes a serious problem.
+
+On the lower portion of the road which leads up from the spring to the
+gap at Walpi on the first mesa, the trail is over drifted sand which
+makes difficult walking.  To remedy this defect in the trail, a path
+has been made of flat stones laid in the sand, which shows that the
+Moquis are quick to recognize and utilize an advantage that contributes
+to their convenience and comfort.
+
+The Santa Fe Pacific is the nearest railroad, which runs about one
+hundred miles south of the Moqui villages.  The tourist can secure
+transportation at reasonable rates of local liverymen either from
+Holbrook, Winslow, Canon Diablo or Flagstaff.  The trip makes an
+enjoyable outing that is full of interest and instruction from start to
+finish.
+
+Some years ago the government, through its agents, began to civilize
+and Christianize these Indians and established a school at Keam's
+Canon, nine miles east of the first mesa, for that purpose.  When the
+school was opened the requisition for a specified number of children
+from each pueblo was not filled until secured by force.  As free
+citizens of the United States, being such by the treaty made with
+Mexico in 1848 and, indeed, already so under a system of
+self-government superior to our own and established long before
+Columbus discovered America, they naturally resented any interference
+in their affairs but, being in the minority and overpowered, had to
+submit.
+
+When the object of the school was explained to them, they consented to
+receive secular instructions but objected to any religious teaching.
+They asked to have schools opened in the pueblos on the plan of our
+public schools where the children could attend during the day and
+return home at night, and their home life be not broken up, but their
+prayer was denied.
+
+The reservation school was opened for the purpose of instructing the
+Moqui children in civilization, but the results obtained have not been
+entirely satisfactory.  The methods employed for enforcing discipline
+have been unnecessarily severe and have given dissatisfaction.  As
+recently as the year 1903 the children of this inoffensive and harmless
+people were forcibly taken from their homes and put into the schools.
+The time selected for doing the dastardly deed was during the night in
+midwinter when the weather was cold and the ground covered with snow.
+Under the orders of the superintendent the reservation police made the
+raid without warning or warrant of any kind.  While the people slept,
+the police entered their houses, dragged the little children from their
+comfortable beds and drove them naked out into the snow and cold, where
+they were rounded up and herded like cattle.
+
+The indignity and outrage of this and other similar acts have
+embittered the Moquis until they have lost what little respect they
+ever had for Christianity and civilization.  The policy of the
+government is to make them do whatever they do not want to do, to break
+up the family and scatter its members.  The treatment has created two
+factions among the Moquis known as the "hostiles" who are only hostile
+in opposing oppression and any change in their religious faith and
+customs; and the "friendlies" who are willing to obey the boss placed
+over them and comply with his demands.
+
+Religion is the dearest treasure of mankind, and when assailed always
+finds ready defenders.  Possessed by this innate feeling of right and
+rankling with the injustice of the past, is it surprising that they
+should spurn any proffered help?  They remember what they have suffered
+in the past and do not care to repeat the experiment.  To this day the
+Moquis hold the mission epoch in contempt and nothing could induce them
+to accept voluntarily any proposition that savored ought of the old
+regime.  Every vestige of that period has been obliterated from the
+pueblos that nothing tangible should remain to remind them of their
+undeserved humiliation.
+
+They are a highly religious people worshiping after their own creed,
+and are sincere and conscientious in their devotions.  Almost
+everything they do has some religious significance and every day its
+religious observance.  Their religion satisfies them and harms no one,
+then why not leave them in peace?  We believe that we can benefit them,
+which is doubtless true, but might they not also teach us some useful
+lessons?  It would sometimes be more to our credit if we were less
+anxious to teach others, and more willing to learn ourselves.
+
+Next to their religion they love their homes most.  The rocks upon
+which they live, are they not dear from associations?  Is it not the
+land of their birth and the home of their fathers during many
+generations?  They cling with stubborn tenacity to their barren mesas
+and nothing thus far has succeeded in driving them away; neither war,
+pestilence nor famine.  Repeated attempts have been made to induce them
+to leave, but without success.
+
+Tom Polaki, the principal man of Tewa, was the first man to respond to
+the call to come down.  He left the mesa several years ago, and went to
+the plain below to live.  Having captured the bell wether it was
+presumed that the balance of the flock would soon follow, but the
+contrary proved to be true.  At the foot of the bluff near a spring on
+the road that leads up to the gap Tom built a modern house and tried to
+imitate the white man.  But the change did not suit him, and after
+living in his modern house for a number of years, he finally sold it
+and returned to his old home on the mesa.  A few others at different
+times have tried the same experiment with no better success.  The man
+would stay for a short time in the house provided for him, but never
+made it a permanent home for his family.
+
+That the Moquis are changing is best illustrated by reference to one of
+their marriage customs.  It is the custom when a youth contemplates
+matrimony to make a marriage blanket.  He grows the cotton, spins the
+yarn and weaves the cloth, which requires a year or more of time to
+finish.  Since the children have gone to school it is not deemed
+necessary for a young man to go to so much trouble and expense as to
+make a marriage blanket, but instead, he borrows one from a friend in
+the village, and after the ceremony is over returns it to the owner.
+Even now it is not easy to find such a blanket, and very soon they will
+be priceless as no more such garments will be made.
+
+The only reasonable explanation why any people should select a location
+like that of the Moquis is on the hypothesis of choice.  There is much
+of the animal in human nature that is influenced by instinct, and man,
+like the brute, often unconsciously selects what is most congenial to
+his nature.  Thus instinct teaches the eagle to nest on the highest
+crag and the mountain sheep to browse in pastures which only the
+hardiest hunter dare approach.  For no better reason, apparently, do
+the Moquis occupy their barren mesas; they simply prefer to live there
+above any other place.
+
+Safety has been urged as a motive for their conduct but it alone is not
+a sufficient reason for solving the problem.  Their position is safe
+enough from attack but in the event of a siege their safety would only
+be temporary.  With their scant water supply at a distance and
+unprotected they could not hold out long in a siege, but would soon be
+compelled either to fight, fly or famish.
+
+Again, if safety was their only reason for staying, they could have
+left long ago and had nothing to fear, as they have been for many years
+at peace with their ancient enemy the predatory Navajo.  But rather
+than go they have chosen to remain in their old home where they have
+always lived, and will continue to live so long as they are left free
+to choose.
+
+The modern iconoclast in his unreasonable devotion to realism has,
+perhaps, stripped them of much old time romance, but even with all of
+that gone, enough of fact remains to make them a remarkable people.
+Instead of seeking to change them this last bit of harmless aboriginal
+life should be spared and preserved, if possible, in all of its native
+purity and simplicity.
+
+
+[1] The American Race, by D. G. Brinton, 1891.
+
+[2] The Gilded Man, by A. F. Bandelier, 1893.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+A FINE CLIMATE
+
+The climate of Arizona as described in the local vernacular is "sure
+fine."  The combination of elements which make the climate is unusual
+and cannot be duplicated elsewhere upon the American continent.  The
+air is remarkably pure and dry.  Siccity, indeed, is its distinguishing
+feature.  That the climate is due to geographical and meteorological
+conditions cannot be doubted, but the effects are unexplainable by any
+ordinary rules.
+
+The region involved not only embraces Arizona, but also includes
+portions of California and Mexico and is commonly known as the Colorado
+Desert.  Yuma, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, is
+approximately its geographical center.  The general aspect of the
+country is low and flat and in the Salton sink the dry land dips
+several hundred feet below the level of the ocean.  Only by extreme
+siccity is such land possible when more water rises in evaporation than
+falls by precipitation.  There are but few such places in the world,
+the deepest one being the Dead Sea, which is about thirteen hundred
+feet lower than the ocean.
+
+The Colorado Basin is the dry bed of an ancient sea whose shore line is
+yet visible in many places upon the sides of the mountains which
+surround it.  Its floor is composed of clay with deposits of sand and
+salt.  Strong winds sometimes sweep over it that shift and pile up the
+sand in great dunes.  The entire region is utterly bare and desolate,
+yet by the use of water diverted from the Colorado river it is being
+reclaimed to agriculture.
+
+The rainfall is very scant the average annual precipitation at Yuma
+being less than three inches.  The climate is not dry from any lack of
+surface water, as it has the Gila and Colorado rivers, the Gulf of
+California and the broad Pacific Ocean to draw from.  But the singular
+fact remains that the country is extremely dry and that it does not
+rain as in other lands.
+
+Neither is the rainfall deficient from any lack of evaporation.  Upon
+the contrary the evaporation is excessive and according to the estimate
+of Major Powell amounts fully to one hundred inches of water per annum.
+If the vapors arising from this enormous evaporation should all be
+condensed into clouds and converted into rain it would create a rainy
+season that would last throughout the year.
+
+The humidity caused by an abundant rainfall in any low, hot country is
+usually enough to unfit it for human habitation.  The combined effect
+of heat and moisture upon a fertile soil causes an excess of both
+growing and decaying vegetation that fills the atmosphere with noxious
+vapors and disease producing germs.  The sultry air is so oppressive
+that it is more than physical endurance can bear.  The particles of
+vapor which float in the atmosphere absorb and hold the heat until it
+becomes like a steaming hot blanket that is death to unacclimated life.
+All of this is changed where siccity prevails.  The rapid evaporation
+quickly dispels the vapors and the dry heat desiccates the disease
+creating germs and makes them innocuous.
+
+The effect of heat upon the body is measured by the difference in the
+actual and sensible temperatures, as recorded by the dry and wet bulb
+thermometers.  When both stand nearly together as they are apt to do in
+a humid atmosphere, the heat becomes insufferable.  In the dry climate
+of Arizona such a condition cannot occur.  The difference in the two
+instruments is always great, often as much as forty degrees.  For this
+reason, a temperature of 118 degrees F. at Yuma is less oppressive than
+98 degrees F. is in New York.  A low relative humidity gives comfort
+and freedom from sunstroke even when the thermometer registers the
+shade temperature in three figures.
+
+A dry, warm climate is a stimulant to the cutaneous function.  The skin
+is an important excreting organ that is furnished with a large number
+of sweat glands which are for the dual purpose of furnishing moisture
+for cooling the body by evaporation and the elimination of worn out and
+waste material from the organism.  As an organ it is not easily injured
+by over work, but readily lends its function in an emergency in any
+effort to relieve other tired or diseased organs of the body.  By
+vicarious action the skin is capable of performing much extra labor
+without injury to itself and can be harnessed temporarily for the
+relief of some vital part which has become crippled until its function
+can be restored.
+
+A diseased kidney depends particularly upon the skin for succor more
+than any other organ.  When the kidneys from any cause fail to act the
+skin comes to their rescue and throws off impurities which nature
+intended should go by the renal route.  For this reason diabetes and
+albuminuria, the most stubborn of all kidney diseases, are usually
+benefited by a dry, warm climate.  The benefit derived is due to an
+increase of the insensible transpiration rather than to profuse
+perspiration.  The air of Arizona is so dry and evaporation so rapid
+that an increase in perspiration is scarcely noticeable except when it
+is confined by impervious clothing.  The disagreeable feeling of wet
+clothes which accompanies profuse perspiration in a damp climate is
+changed to an agreeable sensation of coolness in a dry one.
+
+The atmosphere of Arizona is not only dry but also very electrical, so
+much so, indeed, that at times it becomes almost painful.  Whenever the
+experiment is tried, sparks can be produced by friction or the handling
+of metal, hair or wool.  It affects animals as well as man, and
+literally causes "the hair to stand on end."  The writer has on various
+occasions seen a string of horses standing close together at a
+watering-trough, drinking, so full of electricity that their manes and
+tails were spread out and floated in the air, and the long hairs drawn
+by magnetic attraction from one animal to the other all down the line
+in a spontaneous effort to complete a circuit.  There are times when
+the free electricity in the air is so abundant that every object
+becomes charged with the fluid, and it cannot escape fast enough or
+find "a way out" by any adequate conductor.  The effects of such an
+excess of electricity is decidedly unpleasant on the nerves, and causes
+annoying irritability and nervousness.
+
+The hot sun sometimes blisters the skin and burns the complexion to a
+rich, nut-brown color, but the air always feels soft and balmy, and
+usually blows only in gentle zephyrs.  The air has a pungent fragrance
+which is peculiar to the desert, that is the mingled product of a
+variety of resinous plants.  The weather is uniformly pleasant, and the
+elements are rarely violently disturbed.
+
+In the older settled sections of our country, whenever there is any
+sudden or extreme change in the weather of either heat or cold, wet or
+dry, it is always followed by an increase of sickness and death.  The
+aged and invalid, who are sensitive and weak, suffer mostly, as they
+feel every change in the weather.  There is, perhaps, no place on earth
+that can boast of a perfect climate, but the country that can show the
+fewest and mildest extremes approaches nearest to the ideal.  The
+southwest is exceptionally favored in its climatic conditions, and is
+beneficial to the majority of chronic invalids.
+
+Atmospheric pressure is greatest near the earth's surface, and exerts a
+controlling influence over the vital functions.  Atmospheric pressure
+is to the body what the governor is to the steam engine, or the
+pendulum to the clock.  It regulates vital action, insures safety and
+lessens the wear and tear of machinery.  Under its soothing influence
+the number of respirations per minute are diminished, the heart beats
+decreased in frequency, and the tired brain and nerves rested.  It is
+often better than medicine, and will sometimes give relief when all
+other means fail.
+
+Arizona has a diversity of altitudes, and therefore furnishes a variety
+of climates.  The elevations range from about sea level at Yuma to
+nearly thirteen thousand feet upon the San Francisco mountains.  By
+making suitable changes in altitude to fit the season it is possible to
+enjoy perpetual spring.
+
+Because Arizona is far south geographically it is only natural to
+suppose that it is all very hot, which is a mistake.  In the low
+valleys of southern Arizona the summers are hot, but it is a dry heat
+which is not oppressive, and the winters are delightfully pleasant.  In
+northern Arizona the winters are cold and the summers cool.  There is
+no finer summer climate in the world than is found on the high plateaus
+and pine-topped mountains of northern Arizona.  Prescott, Williams and
+Flagstaff have a charming summer climate, while at Yuma, Phoenix and
+Tucson the winter weather is simply perfect.
+
+A mountain residence is not desirable for thin, nervous people or such
+as are afflicted with any organic disease.  A high altitude is too
+stimulating for this class of patients and tends to increase
+nervousness and aggravates organic disease.  Such persons should seek a
+coast climate and a low altitude, which is sedative, rather than risk
+the high and dry interior.  Any coast climate is better than the
+mountains for nervous people, but the Pacific Coast is preferable to
+any other because of its freedom from electrical storms and every other
+form of disagreeable meteorological disturbance that tries the nerves.
+The nervousness that is produced by a high altitude does not, as a
+rule, develop suddenly, but grows gradually upon the patient.  Those of
+a sensitive nature feel it most and women more than men.  After making
+a change from a low to a high altitude sleep may be sound for a time,
+but it soon becomes fitful and unrefreshing.
+
+It has been discovered that altitude increases the amount of
+hemoglobulin and thus enriches the blood and is particularly beneficial
+to pale, thin people.  It also sharpens the appetite and promotes
+digestion and assimilation.
+
+Persons suffering from rheumatism, neuralgia, advanced pulmonary
+consumption, organic heart disease and all disorders of the brain and
+nerves should avoid a high altitude.  Patients that are afflicted with
+any of the above-mentioned diseases are more comfortable in a low
+altitude and should choose between the coast of California and the low,
+dry lands of the lower Gila and Colorado rivers, according to the
+season of the year and the quality of climate desired.
+
+The diseases which are especially benefited by the climate of Arizona
+are consumption, bronchitis, catarrh and hay fever.  Anyone going in
+search of health who has improved by the change should remain where the
+improvement took place lest by returning home and being again subjected
+to the former climatic conditions which caused the disease the
+improvement be lost and the old disease re-established with increased
+severity.
+
+Most sick people who are in need of a change live in a humid atmosphere
+where the winters are extremely cold and the summers uncomfortably hot,
+and to be benefited by a change must seek a climate in which the
+opposite conditions prevail.  The climate of the southwest furnishes
+just what such invalids require.  The sick who need cold or damp
+weather, if there be any such, can be accommodated almost anywhere, but
+those who want a warm, dry climate must go where it can be found.  Not
+every invalid who goes in search of health finds a cure, as many who
+start on such a journey are already past help when they leave home.
+When a case is hopeless the patient should not undertake such a trip,
+but remain quietly at home and die in peace among friends.
+
+As already intimated the climate of the Colorado basin is ideal in
+winter, but becomes very hot in summer.  Its low altitude, rainless
+days, cloudless skies and balmy air form a combination that is
+unsurpassed and is enjoyed by all either sick or well.  The heat of
+summer does not create sickness, but becomes monotonous and tiresome
+from its steady and long continuance.  Many residents of the Territory
+who tire of the heat and can afford the trip take a vacation during the
+summer months and either go north to the Grand Canon and the mountains
+or to the Pacific Coast.  Every summer witnesses a hegira of sun baked
+people fleeing from the hot desert to the mountains or ocean shore in
+search of coolness and comfort.
+
+Life in the tropics, perhaps, inclines to indolence and languor,
+particularly if the atmosphere is humid, but in a dry climate like that
+of Arizona the heat, although sometimes great, is never oppressive or
+debilitating.  It has its lazy people like any other country and for
+the same reason that there are always some who were born tired and
+never outgrow the tired feeling, but Arizona climate is more bracing
+than enervating.
+
+The adobe house of the Mexican is a peculiar institution of the
+southwest.  It may be interesting on account of its past history, but
+it is certainly not pretty.   It is nothing more than a box of dried
+mud with its roof, walls and floor all made of dirt.  It is never free
+from a disagreeable earthy smell which, if mingled with the added odors
+of stale smoke and filth, as is often the case, makes the air simply
+vile.  The house can never be kept tidy because of the dirt which falls
+from the adobe, unless the walls and ceilings are plastered and
+whitewashed, which is sometimes done in the better class of houses.  If
+the house is well built it is comfortable enough in pleasant weather,
+but as often as it rains the dirt roof springs a leak and splashes
+water and mud over everything.  If by chance the house stands on low
+ground and is surrounded by water, as sometimes happens, after a heavy
+rain the walls become soaked and dissolved into mud when the house
+collapses.  The adobe house may have been suited to the wants of a
+primitive people, but in the present age of improvement, it is scarcely
+worth saving except it be as a relic of a vanishing race.
+
+In order to escape in a measure the discomforts of the midday heat the
+natives either seek the shade in the open air where the breeze blows,
+or, what is more common, close up tight the adobe house in the morning
+and remain indoors until the intense heat from the scorching sun
+penetrates the thick walls, which causes the inmates to move out.  In
+the cool of the evening they visit and transact business and when the
+hour comes for retiring go to bed on cots made up out of doors where
+they sleep until morning, while the house is left open to cool off
+during the night.  This process is repeated every day during the hot
+summer months and is endured without complaint.
+
+The natives, also, take advantage of the dry air to operate a novel
+method of refrigeration.  The cloth covered army canteen soaked in
+water and the handy water jug of the eastern harvest field wrapped in a
+wet blanket are familiar examples of an ineffectual attempt at
+refrigeration by evaporation.  But natural refrigeration find its best
+illustration in the arid regions of the southwest by the use of an
+olla, which is a vessel made of porous pottery, a stout canvas bag or a
+closely woven Indian basket.  A suitable vessel is selected, filled
+with water and suspended somewhere in midair in the shade.  If it is
+hung in a current of air it is all the better, as any movement of the
+atmosphere facilitates evaporation.  A slow seepage of water filters
+through the open pores of the vessel which immediately evaporates in
+the dry air and lowers the temperature.  The water in the olla soon
+becomes cold and if properly protected will remain cool during the
+entire day.
+
+The dry air also acts as a valuable preservative.  During the winter,
+when the weather is cool but not freezing, if fresh meat is hung out in
+the open air, it will keep sweet a long time.  A dry crust soon forms
+upon its surface which hermetically seals the meat from the air and
+keeps it perfectly sweet.  In the summer it is necessary to dry the
+meat more quickly to keep it from spoiling.  It is then made into
+"jerky" by cutting it into long, thin strips and hanging them up in the
+sun to dry.  After it is thoroughly dried, it is tied up in bags and
+used as needed, either by eating it dry from the pocket when out on a
+tramp, or, if in camp, serving it in a hot stew.
+
+Even the carcass of a dead animal that is left exposed upon the ground
+to decompose does not moulder away by the usual process of decay, but
+what is left of the body after the hungry buzzards and coyotes have
+finished their feast, dries up into a mummy that lasts for years.
+
+Climate everywhere unquestionably influences life in its evolution, but
+it is not always easy to determine all of its effects in detail.  In
+Arizona, which is but a comparatively small corner of our country, live
+several races of men that are as different from each other as nature
+could make them, yet all live in the same climate.
+
+The Pueblo Indian is in a manner civilized, peaceable and industrious.
+He is brave in self-defense, but never seeks war nor bloodshed.  Quite
+different is his near neighbor, the bloodthirsty Apache, who seems to
+delight only in robbing and killing people.  Cunning and revenge are
+pronounced traits of his character and the Government has found him
+difficult to conquer or control.  The Mexican leads a shiftless,
+thriftless life and seems satisfied merely to exist.  He has,
+unfortunately, inherited more of the baser than the better qualities of
+his ancestors, and, to all appearance, is destined to further
+degenerate.  The American is the last comer and has already pushed
+civilization and commerce into the remotest corners and, as usual,
+dominates the land.
+
+As diverse as are these several races in many respects, each one of
+them furnishes splendid specimens of physical manhood.  The Indian has
+always been noted for his fine physique, and is large bodied, well
+muscled and full chested.  One advantage which the southwest has over
+other countries is that the climate is mild and favorable to an outdoor
+life, which is conducive to health and physical development.
+
+No single race of men flourish equally well everywhere, but each one is
+affected by its own surroundings; and, what is true of a race, is also
+true of an individual.  The pioneer in any country is always an
+interesting character, but he differs in peculiarities according to his
+environment of mountain, plain or forest.  Occupation also exerts an
+influence and in time develops distinct types like the trapper, miner,
+soldier and cowboy, that only the graphic pencil of a Remington can
+accurately portray.  The eccentricities of character which are
+sometimes met in men who dwell on the frontier are not always due alone
+to disposition, but are largely the product of the wild life which they
+live, that inclines them to be restless, reckless and even desperate.
+
+There is no better field for observing and studying the effects of
+environment upon human life than is furnished by the arid region of the
+southwest.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARIZONA SKETCHES ***
+
+***** This file should be named 756.txt or 756.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/7/5/756/
+
+Produced by Dianne Bean.  HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.