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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/756-h.zip b/756-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d07834 --- /dev/null +++ b/756-h.zip diff --git a/756-h/756-h.htm b/756-h/756-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..007cc5d --- /dev/null +++ b/756-h/756-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5154 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<HTML> +<HEAD> + +<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + +<TITLE> +The Project Gutenberg E-text of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: small } + +P.footnote {font-size: smaller ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.finis { text-align: center ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Arizona Sketches + +Author: Joseph A. Munk + +Posting Date: August 3, 2008 [EBook #756] +Release Date: December, 1996 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARIZONA SKETCHES *** + + + + +Produced by Dianne Bean. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + +</pre> + + +<BR><BR> + +<H1 ALIGN="center"> +ARIZONA SKETCHES +</H1> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +by +</H3> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +Joseph A. Munk +</H2> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<TABLE ALIGN="center" WIDTH="80%"> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">CHAPTER</TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> </TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">I. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap01">A ROMANTIC LAND</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">II. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap02">MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">III. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap03">THE OPEN RANGE</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">IV. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap04">RANCH LIFE</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">V. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap05">THE ROUND-UP</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">VI. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap06">RANCH HAPPENINGS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">VII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap07">A MODEL RANCH</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">VIII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap08">SOME DESERT PLANTS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">IX. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap09">HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">X. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap10">CANON ECHOES</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">XI. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap11">THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">XII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap12">THE CLIFF DWELLERS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">XIII. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap13">THE MOQUI INDIANS</A></TD> +</TR> + +<TR> +<TD ALIGN="right" VALIGN="top">XIV. </TD> +<TD ALIGN="left" VALIGN="top"> +<A HREF="#chap14">A FINE CLIMATE</A></TD> +</TR> + +</TABLE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap01"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER I +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +A ROMANTIC LAND +</H3> + +<P> +A stranger on first entering Arizona is impressed with the newness and +wildness that surrounds him. Indeed, the change is so great that it +seems like going to sleep and waking up in a new world. Everything +that he sees is different from the familiar objects of his home, and he +is filled with wonder and amazement at the many curious things that are +brought to his notice. Judging the country by what is common back +east, the average man is disappointed and prejudiced against what he +sees; but, estimated on its merits, it is found to be a land of many +attractions and great possibilities. +</P> + +<P> +A hasty trip through the country by rail gives no adequate idea of its +intrinsic value, as such a limited view only affords a superficial +glimpse of what should be leisurely and carefully examined to be +properly understood or appreciated. At the first glance it presents +the appearance of a desert, but to one who is acquainted with its +peculiarities it is by no means desolate. It furnishes a strong +contrast to the rolling woodlands of the far east, and to the boundless +prairies of the middle west; and, though it may never develop on the +plan of the older states, like California, it has an individuality and +charm of its own; and its endowment of natural wealth and beauty +requires no borrowing from neighbors to give it character or success. +</P> + +<P> +It has grand scenery, a salubrious climate, productive soil, rich +mineral deposits and rare archaeological remains. It also has a +diversified fauna and flora. The peccary, Gila monster, tarantula, +centipede, scorpion and horned toad are specimens of its strange animal +life; and, the numerous species of cacti, yucca, maguey, palo verde and +mistletoe are samples of its curious vegetation. It is, indeed, the +scientist's Paradise where much valuable material can be found to +enrich almost every branch of natural science. +</P> + +<P> +Hitherto its growth has been greatly retarded by its remote position in +Uncle Sam's domain; but, with the comparatively recent advent of the +railroad, the influx of capital and population, and the suppression of +the once dreaded and troublesome Apache, a new life has been awakened +that is destined to redeem the country from its ancient lethargy and +make it a land of promise to many home seekers and settlers. +</P> + +<P> +When the Spaniards under Coronado first entered the land more than +three hundred and fifty years ago in search of the seven cities of +Cibola, they found upon the desert sufficient evidence of an extinct +race to prove that the land was once densely populated by an +agricultural and prosperous people. When or how the inhabitants +disappeared is unknown and may never be known. It is even in doubt who +they were, but, presumably, they were of the Aztec or Toltec race; or, +perhaps, of some civilization even more remote. +</P> + +<P> +The Pueblo Indians are supposed to be their descendants, but, if so, +they were, when first found, as ignorant of their ancestors as they +were of their discoverers. When questioned as to the past they could +give no intelligent answer as to their antecedents, but claimed that +what the white man saw was the work of Montezuma. All that is known of +this ancient people is what the ruins show, as they left no written +record or even tradition of their life, unless it be some inscriptions +consisting of various hieroglyphics and pictographs that are found +painted upon the rocks, which undoubtedly have a meaning, but for lack +of interpretation remain a sealed book. The deep mystery in which they +are shrouded makes their history all the more interesting and gives +unlimited scope for speculation. +</P> + +<P> +Arizona is a land that is full of history as well as mystery and +invites investigation. It has a fascination that every one feels who +crosses its border. Paradoxical as it may seem it is both the oldest +and newest portion of our country--the oldest in ancient occupation and +civilization and the newest in modern progress. In natural wonders it +boasts of the Grand Canon of Arizona, the painted desert, petrified +forest, meteorite mountain, natural bridge, Montezuma's well and many +other marvels of nature. There are also ruins galore, the cave and +cliff dwellings, crumbled pueblos, extensive acequias, painted rocks, +the casa grande and old Spanish missions. Anyone who is in search of +the old and curious, need not go to foreign lands, but can find right +here at home in Arizona and the southwest, a greater number and variety +of curiosities than can be found in the same space anywhere else upon +the globe. +</P> + +<P> +Arizona is a land of strong contrasts and constant surprises, where +unusual conditions prevail and the unexpected frequently happens. +</P> + +<P> +From the high Colorado plateau of northern Arizona the land slopes +toward the southwest to the Gulf of California. Across this long slope +of several hundred miles in width, numerous mountain ranges stretch +from the northwest to the southeast. Through the middle of the +Territory from east to west, flows the Gila river to its confluence +with the Colorado. This stream marks the dividing line between the +mountains which descend from the north and those that extend south, +which increase in altitude and extent until they culminate in the grand +Sierra Madres of Mexico. +</P> + +<P> +The traveler in passing through the country never gets entirely out of +the sight of mountains. They rise up all about him and bound the +horizon near and far in every direction. In riding along he always +seems to be approaching some distant mountain barrier that ever recedes +before him as he advances. He is never clear of the encircling +mountains for, as often as he passes out of one enclosure through a gap +in the mountains, he finds himself hemmed in again by a new one. The +peculiarity of always being in the midst of mountains and yet never +completely surrounded, is due to an arrangement of dovetailing or +overlapping in their formation. His winding way leads him across +barren wastes, through fertile valleys, among rolling hills and into +sheltered parks, which combine an endless variety of attractive scenery. +</P> + +<P> +An Arizona landscape, though mostly of a desert type, is yet full of +interest to the lover of nature. It presents a strangely fascinating +view, that once seen, will never be forgotten. It stirs a rapture in +the soul that only nature can inspire. +</P> + +<P> +Looking out from some commanding eminence, a wide spreading and +diversified landscape is presented to view. Though hard and rugged, +the picture, as seen at a distance, looks soft and smooth and its +details of form and color make an absorbing study. +</P> + +<P> +The eye is quick to note the different hues that appear in the field of +vision and readily selects five predominating colors, namely, gray, +green, brown, purple and blue, which mingle harmoniously in various +combinations with almost every other color that is known. The most +brilliant lights, sombre shadows, exquisite tints and delicate tones +are seen which, if put on canvas and judged by the ordinary, would be +pronounced exaggerated and impossible by those unfamiliar with the +original. +</P> + +<P> +The prevailing color is gray, made by the dry grass and sandy soil, and +extends in every direction to the limit of vision. The gramma grass of +the and region grows quickly and turns gray instead of brown, as +grasses usually do when they mature. It gives to the landscape a +subdued and quiet color, which is pleasing to the eye and makes the +ideal background in a picture. +</P> + +<P> +Into this warp of gray is woven a woof of green, spreading in irregular +patches in all directions. It is made by the chaparral, which is +composed of a variety of desert plants that are native to the soil and +can live on very little water. It consists of live oak, pinion, +mesquite, desert willow, greasewood, sage brush, palmilla, maguey, +yucca and cacti and is mostly evergreen. +</P> + +<P> +The admixture of gray and green prevails throughout the year except +during the summer rainy season, when, if the rains are abundant, the +gray disappears almost entirely, and the young grass springs up as by +magic, covering the whole country with a carpet of living green. In +the midst of the billowy grass myriads of wild flowers bloom, and stand +single or shoulder to shoulder in masses of solid color by the acre. +</P> + +<P> +Upon the far mountains is seen the sombre brown in the bare rocks. The +whole region was at one time violently disturbed by seismic force and +the glow of its quenched fires has even yet scarcely faded away. Large +masses of igneous rocks and broad streams of vitrified lava bear mute +testimony of the change, when, by some mighty subterranean force, the +tumultuous sea was rolled back from its pristine bed and, in its stead, +lofty mountains lifted their bald beads above the surrounding +desolation, and stand to-day as they have stood in massive grandeur +ever since the ancient days of their upheaval. Rugged and bleak they +tower high, or take the form of pillar, spire and dome, in some +seemingly well-constructed edifice erected by the hand of man. But the +mountains are not all barren. Vast areas of fertile soil flank the +bare rocks where vegetation has taken root, and large fields of forage +and extensive forests of oak and pine add value and beauty to the land. +</P> + +<P> +The atmosphere is a striking feature of the country that is as pleasing +to the eye as it is invigorating to the body. Over all the landscape +hangs a veil of soft, purple haze that is bewitching. It gives to the +scene a mysterious, subtle something that is exquisite and holds the +senses in a magic spell of enchantment. +</P> + +<P> +Distance also is deceptive and cannot be estimated as under other +skies. The far-off mountains are brought near and made to glow in a +halo of mellow light. Manifold ocular illusions appear in the mirage +and deceive the uninitiated. An indefinable dreamy something steals +over the senses and enthralls the soul. +</P> + +<P> +Arching heaven's high dome is a sky of intense blue that looks so +wonderfully clear and deep that even far-famed Italy cannot surpass it. +The nights are invariably clear and the moon and stars appear unusually +bright. The air is so pure that the stars seem to be advanced in +magnitude and can be seen quite low down upon the horizon. +</P> + +<P> +The changing lights that flash in the sky transform both the sunrise +and sunset into marvels of beauty. In the mellow afterglow of the +sunset, on the western sky, stream long banners of light, and fleecy +clouds of gold melt away and fade in the twilight. +</P> + +<P> +At midday in the hazy distance, moving slowly down the valley, can be +seen spiral columns of dust that resemble pillars of smoke. They +ascend perpendicularly, incline like Pisa's leaning tower, or are beat +at various angles, but always retaining the columnar form. They rise +to great heights and vanish in space. These spectral forms are caused +by small local whirlwinds when the air is otherwise calm, and are, +apparently, without purpose, unless they are intended merely to amuse +the casual observer. +</P> + +<P> +A cloudy day is rare and does not necessarily signify rain. Usually +the clouds are of the cumulus variety and roll leisurely by in billowy +masses. Being in a droughty land the clouds always attract attention +viewed either from an artistic or utilitarian standpoint. When out on +parade they float lazily across the sky, casting their moving shadows +below. The figures resemble a mammoth pattern of crazy patchwork in a +state of evolution spread out for inspection. +</P> + +<P> +The impression that is made while looking out upon such a scene is that +of deep silence. Everything is hushed and still; but, by listening +attentively, the number of faint sounds that reach the ear in an +undertone is surprising. The soft soughing of the wind in the trees; +the gentle rustle of the grass as it is swayed by the passing breeze; +the musical ripple of water as it gurgles from the spring; the piping +of the quail as it calls to its mate; the twitter of little birds +flitting from bush to bough; the chirp of the cricket and drone of the +beetle are among the sounds that are heard and fall soothingly upon the +ear. +</P> + +<P> +The trees growing upon the hillside bear a striking resemblance to an +old orchard and are a reminder of home where in childhood the hand +delighted to pluck luscious fruit from drooping boughs. A walk among +the trees makes it easy to imagine that you are in some such familiar +but neglected haunt, and instinctively you look about expecting to see +the old house that was once called home and hear the welcome voice and +footfall of cherished memory. It is no little disappointment to be +roused from such a reverie to find the resemblance only a delusion and +the spot deserted. Forsaken as it has been for many years by the +native savage Indians and prowling wild beasts, the land waits in +silence and patience the coming of the husbandman. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap02"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER II +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA +</H3> + +<P> +I recall with vivid distinctness my first trip to Arizona and +introduction to ranch life in the spring of 1884. The experience made +a deep impression and has led me to repeat the visit many times since +then, with increased interest and pleasure. +</P> + +<P> +During the previous year my brother located a cattle ranch for us in +Railroad Pass in southeastern Arizona. The gap is one of a series of +natural depressions in a succession of mountain chains on the +thirty-second parallel route, all the way from New Orleans to San +Francisco over a distance of nearly twenty-five hundred miles. The +Southern Pacific Railroad is built upon this route and has the easiest +grade of any transcontinental line. +</P> + +<P> +Railroad Pass is a wide break between two mountain ranges and is a fine +grazing section. It is handsomely bounded and presents a magnificent +view. To the north are the Pinaleno mountains, with towering Mt. +Graham in their midst, that are nearly eleven thousand feet high and +lie dark in the shadows of their dense pine forests. Far to the south +rise the rugged Chiricahuas, and nearby stands bald Dos Cabezas, whose +giant double head of granite can be seen as a conspicuous landmark over +a wide scope of country. The distance across the Pass as the crow +flies is, perhaps, fifty miles. Beyond these peaks other mountains +rise in majestic grandeur and bound the horizon in every direction. +</P> + +<P> +At the time that the ranch was located the Pass country was considered +uninhabitable because of the scarcity of water and the presence of +hostile Indians. No permanent spring nor stream of water was known to +exist in that whole region, but fine gramma grass grew everywhere. Its +suitability as a cattle range was recognized and caused it to be +thoroughly prospected for water, which resulted in the discovery of +several hidden springs. All of the springs found, but one, were +insignificant and either soon went dry or fluctuated with the seasons; +but the big spring, known as Pinaleno, was worth finding, and flows a +constant stream of pure, soft water that fills a four-inch iron pipe. +</P> + +<P> +When the spring was discovered not a drop of water was visible upon the +surface, and a patch of willows was the only indication of concealed +moisture. By sinking a shallow well only a few feet deep among the +willows, water was struck as it flowed through coarse gravel over a +buried ledge of rock that forced the water up nearly to the surface +only to sink again in the sand without being seen. A ditch was dug to +the well from below and an iron pipe laid in the trench, through which +the water is conducted into a reservoir that supplies the water troughs. +</P> + +<P> +Again, when the ranch was opened the Indians were bad in the vicinity +and had been actively hostile for some time. The ranch is on a part of +the old Chiricahua reservation that was once the home and hunting +grounds of the tribe of Chiricahua Apaches, the most bold and warlike +of all the southwest Indians. Cochise was their greatest warrior, but +he was only one among many able Apache chieftains. He was at one time +the friend of the white man, but treachery aroused his hatred and +caused him to seek revenge on every white man that crossed his path. +</P> + +<P> +His favorite haunt was Apache Pass, a convenient spot that was +favorable for concealment, where he lay in wait for weary travelers who +passed that way in search of water and a pleasant camp ground. If +attacked by a superior force, as sometimes happened, he invariably +retreated across the Sulphur Spring valley into his stronghold in the +Dragoon mountains. +</P> + +<P> +Because of the many atrocities that were committed by the Indians, +white men were afraid to go into that country to settle. Even as late +as in the early eighties when that prince of rascals, the wily +Geronimo, made his bloody raids through southern Arizona, the men who +did venture in and located ranch and mining claims, lived in daily +peril of their lives which, in not a few instances, were paid as a +forfeit to their daring. +</P> + +<P> +The Butterfield stage and all other overland travel to California by +the southern route before the railroads were built, went through Apache +Pass. Although it was the worst Indian infested section in the +southwest, travelers chose that dangerous route in preference to any +other for the sake of the water that they knew could always be found +there. +</P> + +<P> +The reputation of Apache Pass, finally became so notoriously bad +because of the many murders committed that the Government, late in the +sixties, built and garrisoned Ft. Bowie for the protection of travelers +and settlers. The troops stationed at the post endured much hardship +and fought many bloody battles before the Indians were conquered. Many +soldiers were killed and buried in a little graveyard near the fort. +When the fort was abandoned a few years ago, their bodies were +disinterred and removed to the National cemetery at Washington. +</P> + +<P> +Railroad Pass is naturally a better wagon road than Apache Pass, but is +without water. It was named by Lieut. J. G. Parke in 1855 while +engaged in surveying for the Pacific Railroad, because of its easy +grade and facility for railroad construction. +</P> + +<P> +I timed my visit to correspond with the arrival at Bowie station on the +Southern Pacific Railroad, of a consignment of ranch goods that had +been shipped from St. Louis. I was met at the depot by the ranch +force, who immediately proceeded to initiate me as a tenderfoot. I +inquired of one of the cowboys how far it was to a near-by mountain. +He gave a quien sabe shrug of the shoulder and answered me in Yankee +fashion by asking how far I thought it was. Estimating the distance as +in a prairie country I replied, "Oh, about a mile." He laughed and +said that the mountain was fully five miles distant by actual +measurement. I had unwittingly taken my first lesson in plainscraft +and prudently refrained thereafter from making another sure guess. +</P> + +<P> +The deception was due to the rarefied atmosphere, which is peculiar to +the arid region. It not only deceives the eye as to distance, but also +as to motion. If the eye is steadily fixed upon some distant inanimate +object, it seems to move in the tremulous light as if possessed of +life, and it is not always easy to be convinced to the contrary. +However, by putting the object under inspection in line with some +further object, it can readily be determined whether the object is +animate or still by its remaining on or moving off the line. +</P> + +<P> +Another peculiarity of the country is that objects do not always seem +to stand square with the world. In approaching a mountain and moving +on an up grade the plane of incline is suddenly reversed and gives the +appearance and sensation of going downhill. In some inexplicable +manner sense and reason seem to conflict and the discovery of the +disturbed relation of things is startling. You know very well that the +mountain ahead is above you, but it has the appearance of standing +below you in a hollow; and the water in the brook at your feet, which +runs down the mountain into the valley, seems to be running uphill. By +turning squarely about and looking backwards, the misplaced objects +become righted, and produces much the same sensation that a man feels +who is lost and suddenly finds himself again. +</P> + +<P> +We immediately prepared to drive out to the ranch, which was ten miles +distant and reached by a road that skirted the Dos Cabezas mountains. +The new wagon was set up and put in running order and lightly loaded +with supplies. All of the preliminaries being completed, the horses +were harnessed and hooked to the wagon. The driver mounted his seat, +drew rein and cracked his whip, but we didn't go. The horses were only +accustomed to the saddle and knew nothing about pulling in harness. +Sam was a condemned cavalry horse and Box was a native bronco, and +being hitched to a wagon was a new experience to both. The start was +unpropitious, but, acting on the old adage that "necessity is the +mother of invention," which truth is nowhere better exemplified than on +the frontier where conveniences are few and the most must be made of +everything, after some delay and considerable maneuvering we finally +got started. +</P> + +<P> +The road for some distance out was level and smooth and our progress +satisfactory. As we drove leisurely along I improved the opportunity +to look about and see the sights. It was a perfect day in April and +there never was a brighter sky nor balmier air than beamed and breathed +upon us. The air was soft and tremulous with a magical light that +produced startling phantasmagoric effects. +</P> + +<P> +It was my first sight of a mirage and it naturally excited my +curiosity. It seemed as if a forest had suddenly sprung up in the San +Simon valley where just before had appeared only bare ground. With +every change in the angle of vision as we journeyed on, there occurred +a corresponding change in the scene before us that produced a charming +kaleidoscopic effect. The rough mountain was transformed into a +symmetrical city and the dry valley into a lake of sparkling +water,--all seeming to be the work of magic in some fairyland of +enchantment. +</P> + +<P> +In a ledge of granite rock by the wayside were cut a number of round +holes which the Indians had made and used as mills for grinding their +corn and seeds into meal. Nearby also, were some mescal pits used for +baking the agave, a native plant that is in great demand as food by the +Indians. The spot was evidently an old rendezvous where the marauding +Apaches were accustomed to meet in council to plan their bloody raids, +and to feast on mescal and pinole in honor of some successful foray or +victory over an enemy. +</P> + +<P> +We next crossed several well-worn Indian trails which the Apaches had +made by many years of travel to and fro between their rancherias in the +Mogollon mountains and Mexico. The sight of these trails brought us +back to real life and a conscious sense of danger, for were we not in +an enemy's country and in the midst of hostile Indians? Nearly every +mile of road traveled had been at some time in the past the scene of a +bloody tragedy enacted by a savage foe. Even at that very time the +Apaches were out on the warpath murdering people, but fortunately we +did not meet them and escaped unmolested. +</P> + +<P> +The road now crossed a low hill, which was the signal for more trouble. +The team started bravely up the incline, but soon stopped and then +balked and all urging with whip and voice failed to make any +impression. After several ineffectual attempts to proceed it was +decided not to waste any more time in futile efforts. The horses were +unhitched and the wagon partly unloaded, when all hands by a united +pull and push succeeded in getting the wagon up the hill. After +reloading no difficulty was experienced in making a fresh start on a +down grade, but a little farther on a second and larger hill was +encountered, when the failure to scale its summit was even greater than +the first. No amount of coaxing or urging budged the horses an inch. +They simply were stubborn and would not pull. +</P> + +<P> +Night was approaching and camp was yet some distance ahead. The driver +suggested that the best thing to do under the circumstances was for the +rest of us to take the led horses and ride on to camp, while he would +remain with the wagon and, if necessary, camp out all night. We +reluctantly took his advice, mounted our horses and finished our +journey in the twilight. Aaron, who was housekeeper at the ranch, gave +us a hearty welcome and invited us to sit down to a bountiful supper +which he had prepared in anticipation of our coming. Feeling weary +after our ride we retired early and were soon sound asleep. The only +thing that disturbed our slumbers during the night was a coyote concert +which, as a "concord of sweet sounds was a dismal failure" but as a +medley of discordant sounds was a decided success. The bark of the +coyote is particularly shrill and sharp and a single coyote when in +full cry sounds like a chorus of howling curs. +</P> + +<P> +We were all up and out early the next morning to witness the birth of a +new day. The sunrise was glorious, and bright colors in many hues +flashed across the sky. The valley echoed with the cheerful notes of +the mocking bird and the soft air was filled with the fragrance of wild +flowers. The scene was grandly inspiring and sent a thrill of pleasure +through every nerve. +</P> + +<P> +While thus absorbed by the beauties of nature we heard an halloo, and +looking down the road in the direction of the driver's bivouac we saw +him coming swinging his hat in the air and driving at a rapid pace that +soon brought him to the ranch house. In answer to our inquiries as to +how he had spent the night he reported that the horses stood quietly in +their tracks all night long, while he slept comfortably in the wagon. +In the morning the horses started without undue urging as if tired of +inaction and glad to go in the direction of provender. They were +completely broken by their fast and after that gave no further trouble. +</P> + +<P> +After a stay of four weeks, learning something of the ways of ranch +life and experiencing not a few exciting adventures, I returned home +feeling well pleased with my first trip to the ranch. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap03"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER III +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE OPEN RANGE +</H3> + +<P> +Arizona is in the arid belt and well adapted to the range cattle +industry. Its mild climate and limited water supply make it the ideal +range country. Indeed, to the single factor of its limited water +supply, perhaps, more than anything else is its value due as an open +range. If water was abundant there could be no open range as then the +land would all be farmed and fenced. +</P> + +<P> +Arizona is sometimes spoken of as belonging to the plains, but it is +not a prairie country. Mountains are everywhere, but are separated in +many places by wide valleys. The mountains not only make fine scenery, +but are natural boundaries for the ranches and give shade and shelter +to the cattle. +</P> + +<P> +There are no severe storms nor blizzard swept plains where cattle drift +and perish from cold. The weather is never extremely cold, the mercury +seldom falling to more than a few degrees below freezing, except upon +the high plateaus and mountains of northern Arizona. If it freezes +during the night the frost usually disappears the next day; and, if +snow flies, it lies only on the mountains, but melts as fast as it +falls in the valleys. There are but few cloudy or stormy days in the +year and bright, warm sunshine generally prevails. There has never +been any loss of cattle from cold, but many have died from drought as a +result of overstocking the range. +</P> + +<P> +The pastures consist of valley, mesa and mountain lands which, in a +normal season, are covered by a variety of nutritious grasses. Of all +the native forage plants the gramma grass is the most abundant and +best. It grows only in the summer rainy season when, if the rains are +copious, the gray desert is converted into a vast green meadow. +</P> + +<P> +The annual rainfall is comparatively light and insufficient to grow and +mature with certainty any of the cereal crops. When the summer rains +begin to fall the rancher is "jubilant" and the "old cow smiles." Rain +means even more to the ranchman than it does to the farmer. In an +agricultural country it is expected that rain or snow will fall during +every month of the year, but on the range rain is expected only in +certain months and, if it fails to fall then, it means failure, in a +measure, for the entire year. +</P> + +<P> +Rain is very uncertain in Arizona. July and August are the rain months +during which time the gramma grass grows. Unless the rain falls daily +after it begins it does but little good, as frequent showers are +required to keep the grass growing after it once starts. A settled +rain of one or more days' duration is of rare occurrence. During the +rainy season and, in fact, at all times, the mornings are usually +clear. In the forenoon the clouds begin to gather and pile up in dark +billowy masses that end in showers during the afternoon and evening. +But not every rain cloud brings rain. Clouds of this character often +look very threatening, but all their display of thunder and lightning +is only bluff and bluster and ends in a fizzle with no rain. After +such a demonstration the clouds either bring wind and a disagreeable +dust storm, or, if a little rain starts to fall, the air is so dry that +it evaporates in mid air, and none of it ever reaches the earth. In +this fashion the clouds often threaten to do great things, only to +break their promise; and the anxious rancher stands and gazes at the +sky with longing eyes, only to be disappointed again and again. +</P> + +<P> +As a rule water is scarce. A long procession of cloudless days merge +into weeks of dry weather; and the weeks glide into months during which +time the brazen sky refuses to yield one drop of moisture either of dew +or rain to the parched and thirsty earth. Even the rainy season is not +altogether reliable, but varies considerably one year with another in +the time of its appearance and continuance. +</P> + +<P> +The soil is sandy and porous and readily absorbs water, except where +the earth is tramped and packed hard by the cattle. One peculiarity of +the country as found marked upon the maps, and that exists in fact, is +the diminution and often complete disappearance of a stream after it +leaves the mountains. If not wholly lost upon entering the valley the +water soon sinks out of sight in the sand and disappears and reappears +at irregular intervals, until it loses itself entirely in some +underground channel and is seen no more. +</P> + +<P> +Many a pleasant valley in the range country is made desolate by being +destitute of any surface spring or running brook, or water that can be +found at any depth. Occasionally a hidden fountain is struck by +digging, but it is only by the merest chance. Wells have been dug to +great depths in perfectly dry ground in an eager search for water +without finding it, and such an experience is usually equivalent to a +failure and the making of a useless bill of expense. +</P> + +<P> +A never-failing spring of good water in sufficient quantity to supply +the needs of a ranch in the range country is of rare occurrence, +considering the large territory to be supplied. Only here and there at +long intervals is such a spring found, and it is always a desirable and +valuable property. It makes an oasis in the desert that is an +agreeable change from the surrounding barrenness, and furnishes its +owner, if properly utilized, a comfortable subsistence for himself and +herds. His fields produce without fail and the increase of his flocks +and herds is sure. +</P> + +<P> +The isolated rancher who is well located is independent. He is in no +danger of being crowded by his neighbors nor his range becoming over +stocked with stray cattle. His water right gives him undisputed +control of the adjacent range, even though he does not own all the +land, which is an unwritten law of the range and respected by all +cattlemen. +</P> + +<P> +Because of the scarcity of water the range country is sparsely settled +and always will be until more water is provided by artificial means for +irrigation. Even then a large portion of the land will be worthless +for any other purpose than grazing, and stock-growing on the open range +in Arizona will continue to be a staple industry in the future as it +has been in the past. +</P> + +<P> +The range is practically all occupied and, in many places, is already +over stocked. Where more cattle are run on a range than its grass and +water can support there is bound to be some loss. In stocking a range +an estimate should be made of its carrying capacity in a bad year +rather than in a good one, as no range can safely carry more cattle +than it can support in the poorest year; like a chain, it is no +stronger than its weakest link. +</P> + +<P> +A good range is sometimes destroyed by the prairie dog. Wherever he +establishes a colony the grass soon disappears. He burrows in the +ground and a group of such holes is called a dog town. Like the +jack-rabbit he can live without water and is thus able to keep his hold +on the desert. The only way to get rid of him is to kill him, which is +usually done by the wholesale with poison. His flesh is fine eating, +which the Navajo knows if the white man does not. The Navajo considers +him a dainty morsel which is particularly relished by the sick. If a +patient can afford the price, he can usually procure a prairie dog in +exchange for two sheep. +</P> + +<P> +The Navajo is an adept at capturing this little animal. The hunter +places a small looking-glass near the hole and, in concealment near by, +he patiently awaits developments. When the prairie dog comes out of +his hole to take an airing he immediately sees his reflection in the +glass and takes it for an intruder. In an instant he is ready for a +fight and pounces upon his supposed enemy to kill or drive him away. +While the prairie dog is thus engaged wrestling with his shadow or +reflection the hunter shoots him at close range with his bow and +arrow--never with a gun, for if wounded by a bullet he is sure to drop +into his hole and is lost, but the arrow transfixes his body and +prevents him from getting away. He has been hunted so much in the +Navajo country that he has become very scarce.[1] +</P> + +<P> +Much of the ranch country in southern Arizona is destitute of trees, +and shade, therefore, is scarce. Upon the high mountains and plateaus +of northern Arizona there are great forests of pine and plenty of +shade. But few cattle range there in comparison to the large numbers +that graze on the lower levels further south. What little tree growth +there is on the desert is stunted and supplies but scant shade. In the +canons some large cottonwood, sycamore and walnut trees can be found; +upon the foot hills the live oak and still higher up the mountain the +pine. Cattle always seek the shade and if there are no trees they will +lie down in the shade of a bush or anything that casts a shadow. The +cattle are so eager for shade that if they can find nothing better they +will crowd into the narrow ribbon of shade that is cast by a columnar +cactus or telegraph pole and seem to be satisfied with ever so little +if only shade is touched. +</P> + +<P> +Twenty years ago before there were many cattle on the southwestern +range, the gramma grass stood knee high everywhere all over that +country and seemed to be an inexhaustible supply of feed for an +unlimited number of cattle during an indefinite term of years. It was +not many years, however, after the large herds were turned loose on the +range until the grass was all gone and the ground, except in a few +favored spots, left nearly as bare of grass as the traveled road. At +the present time whatever grass there is must grow each year which, +even in a favorable year, is never heavy. If the summer rains fail, no +grass whatever can grow and the cattle are without feed. The grass +about the springs and water holes is first to disappear and then the +cattle must go farther and farther from water to find any grass. When +cattle are compelled to travel over long distances in going from grass +to water, they naturally grow thin from insufficient food and are worn +out by the repeated long journeys. A cow that is thin and weak will +postpone making the trip as long as possible--two, three and even four +days in the hottest weather she will wait before attempting the trip. +At last, when the poor creature reaches water, she is so famished from +thirst that she drinks too much. In her feeble condition she is unable +to carry the enormous load of water which she drinks and lies down by +the side of the friendly water trough to die from exhaustion. +</P> + +<P> +If cattle are turned loose upon a new range they act strange and are +inclined to scatter. Until they become accustomed to the change they +should be close herded, but after they are once located they are not +liable to stray very far. +</P> + +<P> +As they are only worked by men on horseback they are not frightened at +the sight of a horse and rider; but let a stranger approach them on +foot, in a moment after he is sighted every head is raised in surprise +and alarm and the pedestrian is, indeed, fortunate if the herd turns +tail and scampers off instead of running him down and tramping him +under foot in a wild stampede. +</P> + +<P> +Nowhere else can be found a finer sight than is witnessed in the range +country. In every direction broad meadows stretch away to the horizon +where numberless cattle roam and are the embodiment of bovine happiness +and contentment. Scattered about in irregular groups they are seen at +ease lying down or feeding, and frisking about in an overflow of +exuberant life. Cow paths or trails converge from every point of the +compass, that lead to springs and water holes, on which the cattle +travel. +</P> + +<P> +It is an interesting sight to watch the cattle maneuver as they form in +line, single file, ready for the march. They move forward in an easy, +deliberate walk one behind the other and may be seen coming and going +in every direction. They make their trips with great regularity back +and forth from grass to water, and vice versa, going to water in the +morning and back to the feeding grounds at night. +</P> + +<P> +Cows have a curious fashion, sometimes, of hiding out their calves. +When a cow with a young calf starts for water she invariably hides her +calf in a bunch of grass or clump of bushes in some secluded spot, +where it lies down and remains perfectly quiet until the mother +returns. I have many times while riding the range found calves thus +secreted that could scarcely be aroused or frightened away, which +behavior was so different from their usual habit of being shy and +running off at the slightest provocation. The calf under such +circumstances seems to understand that it is "not at home," and cannot +be seen. +</P> + +<P> +At another time a lot of calves are left in charge of a young cow or +heifer that seems to understand her responsibility and guards her +charge carefully. The young calves are too weak to make the long trip +to water and thus, through the maternal instinct of the mother cow, she +provides for the care of her offspring almost as if she were human. +</P> + +<P> +After viewing such a large pasture as the open range presents, which is +limitless in extent, the small fenced field or pasture lot of a few +acres on the old home farm back east, that looked so large to boyish +eyes in years gone by, dwindles by comparison into insignificance and +can never again be restored to its former greatness. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] This statement is made on the authority of Mr. F. W. Volz, who +lives at Canon Diablo, and is familiar with the customs of the Navajos. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap04"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER IV +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RANCH LIFE +</H3> + +<P> +Ranch life on the open range may be somewhat wild and lonely, but it is +as free and independent to the rancher as it is to his unfettered +cattle that roam at will over a thousand hills. As a place of +residence for a family of women and children it is undesirable because +of its isolation and lack of social and educational privileges; but +for a man who cares to "rough it" it has a rare fascination. Its +freedom may mean lonesomeness and its independence monotony, yet it is +very enjoyable for a season. Like anything else it may become wearing +and wearisome if continued too long without a change, but its novelty +has a charm that is irresistible. +</P> + +<P> +Ranch life is untrammeled by social conventionalities and is not +burdened by business cares, but is an easy, natural life that is free +from all kinds of pressure. It relieves the tension of an artificial +existence, and worry and vexation are forgotten. Time loses its rapid +flight and once more jogs on at an easy pace; and its complete +isolation and quiet gives nature a chance to rest and recuperate +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + "Away from the dwellings of careworn men."<BR> +</P> + +<P> +The environment of ranch life is highly conducive to good health. The +scenery is delightful, the air pure and bracing, the food wholesome and +nutritious, the couch comfortable and the sleep refreshing. Walking +and riding furnish the necessary exercise that nature demands. Indeed, +there is no better exercise to be found than riding horseback to +stimulate sluggish organs, or excite to healthy action the bodily +functions. It stirs the liver, causes deep breathing, strengthens the +heart and circulation, tones the nerves and makes an appetite that +waits on good digestion. An outdoor life is often better than medicine +and is a panacea for the "ills that human flesh is heir to." +</P> + +<P> +The ranchman, if he is in tune with his surroundings, finds a +never-failing spring of pleasure. If he is company for himself he is +well entertained and if he is a lover of nature he finds interesting +subjects for study upon every hand. His wants are few and simple and +the free life that he lives develops in him a strong and sturdy +manhood. He is the picture of health and is happy and contented as the +day is long. +</P> + +<P> +However, such a life does not suit everyone, as individual tastes +differ. Prejudice also exerts an influence and is apt to estimate all +western life as crude and undesirable, being in a transition state of +change from savagery to civilization. Be it even so; for, if the +savage had never existed to furnish the ancestry that civilized man +boasts, civilization would not have been possible. It is only natural +that this should be so as, in the order of nature, evolution begins at +the bottom and works up. +</P> + +<P> +There is perhaps no condition in life that can be called perfect, yet +of the two extremes we choose to believe that civilization is +preferable to barbarism; but an intermediate state has the advantage +over both extremes by avoiding native crudeness upon the one hand and +excessive refinement upon the other, both being equally undesirable. +</P> + +<P> +Happiness, which we all profess to seek, exists in some degree +everywhere but we are always striving to acquire something more. In +our constant struggle for improvement, progress undoubtedly is made in +the right direction. With refinement comes increased sensibility and +an enlarged capacity for enjoyment. But, such a state in itself is not +one of unalloyed bliss, as might be supposed, since it is marred by its +antithesis, an increased amount of sickness and suffering, which is the +inevitable penalty of civilization. In such a progression the +pleasures of life become more, but the acuteness of suffering is also +increased. The mistake lies in the fact that in our eager pursuit +after the artificial we forget nature and not until we acquire a +surfeit of that which is artificial and grow weary of the shams and +deceits of the world do we stop and think or turn again to nature to +find the truth. +</P> + +<P> +In the early days the frontier was the rendezvous for rough and lawless +characters of every description. That time has gone by never to return +in the history of the nation, as the rustlers have either reformed and +become good citizens or long ago left the country by the lead or hemp +routes. The change in the times has been such that never again will it +be possible to return to the conditions that existed in the early +settlement of the west which gave to desperadoes a safe hiding place. +</P> + +<P> +The people now living on what is left of the frontier will, as a class, +compare favorably with those of any other community. There may be +small surface polish, as the world goes, but there is much genuine gold +of true character that needs only a little rubbing to make it shine. +</P> + +<P> +The population being sparse there is comparatively little opportunity +or inclination for wrongdoing. Whatever anybody does is noticed at +once and everything that happens is immediately found out. The +favorite haunt of vice and crime is not in a sparsely settled +community, public opinion to the contrary notwithstanding, but in the +centers of population, in, our large cities where temptation to do evil +is strong and dark deeds find ready concealment in the mingling and +confusion of the throng. +</P> + +<P> +The ranchman deserves to be correctly judged by his true character and +not by any false standard that is artfully designed to misrepresent him +or to unjustly bring him into contempt. He may have a rough exterior, +not intending to pose in a model fashion plate, but in real life where +he is tried there is found under his coarse garb a heart that is honest +and true which responds with sympathy and kindness for anyone in +distress; and his generosity and hospitality are proverbial and stand +without a rival. Men from every position in life, including college +graduates and professional men, are engaged in ranching and whoever +takes them to be a lot of toughs and ignoramuses is egregiously +mistaken. +</P> + +<P> +The strength, virtue and intelligence of the nation is found in its +large middle class of laboring people that is largely composed of +farmers and mechanics, men who work with their hands and live natural +lives and are so busy in some useful occupation that they have no time +to think of mischief. In this favored land of freedom all of our great +men have been of the common people and struggled up from some humble +position. A life of toil may seem to be hard, but it conforms to +nature and natural laws and favors the development of the best that is +in man; and he who shirks toil misses his opportunity. Whatever tends +to wean men from work only weakens them. Luxury and indolence travel +on the downward road of degeneracy. They may make pleasant temporary +indulgence, but are fatal to ultimate success. +</P> + +<P> +Locomotion on a ranch consists almost entirely of horseback riding as +walking is too slow and tiresome and wheeled conveyance is often +inconvenient or impossible for cross-country driving. When the +ranchman mounts his horse in the morning to make his daily rounds he +has a clear field before him. He is "monarch of all he surveys" and +practically owns the earth, since his neighbors live many miles away +and his road leads in any direction clear to the horizon. +</P> + +<P> +The average ranch is not intended to furnish luxuries, but to serve the +best interests of the business in hand, that of growing cattle. It is +usually a "stag camp" composed entirely of men who occupy a rude cabin +near some convenient spring or stream of water, where they keep house +in ranch style and live after a fashion. No money is ever expended in +unnecessary improvements, but every dollar spent in repairs is put +where it will do the most good. The house furnishings are all of the +plainest kind and intended to meet only present necessities. The +larder is not supplied with luxuries nor is the cuisine prolific of +dainties, but there is always on hand a supply of the necessaries of +life. +</P> + +<P> +Every man has his particular work to perform, but unless it be on some +large ranch where the force of men employed is sufficiently large to +require the services of a chef, he is also expected to assist in +keeping house. It is an unwritten law of the ranch that everybody on +the place must share in this work and if anyone shirks his duty he must +either promptly mend his ways or else quit his job. It is seldom, +however, that this rule has to be enforced, as the necessities of the +case require that every man shall be able to prepare a meal as he is +liable to be left alone for days or weeks at a time when he must either +cook or starve. +</P> + +<P> +The equipment of the cowboy is his horse and reata. They are his +constant companions and serve his every purpose. His work includes +much hard riding, which he greatly enjoys if no accident befalls him. +But dashing on in heedless speed while rounding up cattle he is ever +liable to mishaps, as his horse, although sure footed, may at any time +step into a prairie dogs' hole or stumble on a loose rock that is +liable to throw both horse and rider to the ground in a heap. He is, +indeed, fortunate if he escapes unhurt, or only receives a few bruises +and not a fractured bone or broken neck. +</P> + +<P> +His work consists in riding over the range and marking the condition of +the cattle; line riding to prevent the stock from straying; looking +after the springs and water holes and keeping them clean; branding +calves, gathering steers for market and assisting in the general work +of the round-up. Every day has its duty and every season its +particular work, yet there are times of considerable leisure during the +year. After his day's work is done he repairs to the ranch house, or +to some outlying camp, whichever happens to be nearest when night +overtakes him, for every large ranch has one or more such camps posted +at some convenient point that furnishes temporary shelter and +refreshment, where he rests and eats his frugal meal with a relish that +only health and rough riding can give. +</P> + +<P> +If he is at the home ranch in winter he spends the long evenings before +an open hearth fire of blazing logs and by the light of the fire and +the doubtful aid of a tallow dip lounges the hours away in reading and +cogitation; or, if in the company of congenial companions, engages in +conversation and pleasantry or any amusement that the party may select. +At an early hour he turns in for the night and after a sound and +refreshing sleep is up and out with the dawn. After breakfast he +mounts his horse and in his striking and characteristic costume of +broad sombrero, blue flannel shirt, fringed chaperejos and jingling +spurs he rides forth to his work a perfect type of the gallant +caballero. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap05"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER V +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE ROUND-UP +</H3> + +<P> +In the range cattle business it is important for every owner of live +stock to have some mark by which he can tell his own cattle. It is +impossible for any man to remember and recognize by natural marks every +animal in a large herd. On the open range there are no fenced pastures +to hold the cattle, but all are permitted to run free and mix +promiscuously. To distinguish the cattle of different owners a system +of earmarks and brands has been devised by which each ranchman can +identify and claim his own stock. +</P> + +<P> +The branding is usually done during a round-up when every calf found is +caught and branded in the brand of its mother. If a calf remains +unbranded until after it is weaned and quits its mother, it becomes a +maverick and is liable to be lost to its owner. A calf, if left to +itself, will follow its mother for several months and then leave her to +seek its own living. Occasionally a calf does not become weaned when +it should be, but continues the baby habit indefinitely. If a yearling +is found unweaned it is caught and "blabbed" which is done by fitting a +peculiarly shaped piece of wood into its nose that prevents it from +sucking but does not interfere with feeding. +</P> + +<P> +If a calf loses its mother while very young it is called a "leppy." +Such an orphan calf is, indeed, a forlorn and forsaken little creature. +Having no one to care for it, it has a hard time to make a living. If +it is smart enough to share the lacteal ration of some more fortunate +calf it does very well, but if it cannot do so and has to depend +entirely on grazing for a living its life becomes precarious and is apt +to be sacrificed in the "struggle for the survival of the fittest." +</P> + +<P> +If it survives the ordeal and lives it bears the same relation to the +herd as the maverick and has no lawful owner until it is branded. If +an unbranded calf has left or lost its mother it has lost its identity +as well and finds it again only after being branded, although it may +have swapped owners in the process. Theoretically, a maverick belongs +to the owner of the range on which it runs, but, practically, it +becomes the property of the man who first finds and brands it. +</P> + +<P> +Although the branding is supposed to be done only during a round-up +there is nevertheless some branding done in every month of the year. +The ranchman is compelled to do so to save his calves from being +stolen. Therefore early branding is generally practiced as it has been +found to be the best safeguard against theft. Either the spring or +fall is considered a good time to brand, but the only best time to +brand a calf is when you find it. +</P> + +<P> +Dishonest men are found in the cattle business the same as in other +occupations and every year a large number of cattle are misappropriated +and stolen from the range. Cattle have been stolen by the wholesale +and large herds run off and illegally sold before the owner discovered +his loss. Calf stealing, however, happens more frequently than the +stealing of grown cattle and many ingenious devices have been invented +to make such stealing a success. A common practice is to "sleeper" a +calf by a partial earmark and a shallow brand that only singes the hair +but does not burn deep enough to leave a permanent scar. If the calf +is not discovered as an imperfect or irregular brand and becomes a +maverick, it is kept under surveillance by the thief until he considers +it safe to finish the job when he catches it again and brands it with +his own iron. +</P> + +<P> +Different methods are employed to win a calf and fit it for unlawful +branding. Sometimes the calf is caught and staked out in some secluded +spot where it is not liable to be found and away from its mother until +it is nearly starved when it is branded by the thief and turned loose; +or, the calf's tongue is split so that it cannot suck and by the time +that the wounded tongue has healed the calf has lost its mother, and +the thief brands it for himself. Again, the mother cow is shot and +killed, when the orphan calf is branded in perfect safety as "the dead +tell no tales." +</P> + +<P> +The owner of cattle on the open range must be constantly on his guard +against losses by theft. Usually the thief is a dishonest neighbor or +one of his own cowboys who becomes thrifty at his employer's expense. +Many a herd of cattle was begun without a single cow, but was started +by branding surreptitiously other people's property. It is not an easy +matter to detect such a thief or to convict on evidence when he is +arrested and brought to trial. A cattle thief seldom works alone, but +associates himself with others of his kind who will perjure themselves +to swear each other clear. +</P> + +<P> +The cow ponies that are used in range work are small but active and +possessed of great power of endurance. They are the descendants of the +horses that were brought into Mexico by the Spaniards, some of which +escaped into the wilderness and their increase became the wild horses +of the plains. They are known by the various names of mustang, bronco +and cayuse according to the local vernacular of the country in which +they roam. They are wild and hard to conquer and are sometimes never +fully broken even under the severest treatment. Bucking and pitching +are their peculiar tricks for throwing a rider and such an experience +invariably ends in discomfort if not discomfiture, for if the rider is +not unhorsed he at least receives a severe shaking up in the saddle. +</P> + +<P> +The native cattle, like the horses, are small and wild, but are hardy +and make good rustlers. The native stock has been greatly improved in +recent years by cross breeding with thoroughbred Durham and Hereford +bulls. Grade cattle are better suited for the open range than are pure +bred animals, which are more tender and fare better in fenced pastures. +By cross breeding the quality of range cattle has steadily improved +until the scrub element has been almost bred out. +</P> + +<P> +As a breeding ground Arizona is unsurpassed, but for maturing beef +cattle the northern country is preferable. Thousands of young cattle +are shipped out annually to stock the ranges of Wyoming and Montana and +to fill the feed lots of Kansas, Missouri and other feeding states. A +dash of native blood in range cattle is desirable as it enables them to +endure hardships without injury and find subsistence in seasons of +drought and scant forage. +</P> + +<P> +The general round-up occurs in the fall, just after the summer rains, +when there is plenty of grass and the horses and cattle are in good +condition. The ranchmen of a neighborhood meet at an appointed time +and place and organize for systematic work. A captain is chosen who is +in command of the round-up and must be obeyed. Each cowboy has his own +string of horses, but all of the horses of the round-up not in use are +turned out to graze and herd together. A mess wagon and team of horses +in charge of a driver, who is also the cook, hauls the outfit of pots, +provisions and bedding. +</P> + +<P> + The round-up moves from ranch to ranch rounding up and marking<BR> +the cattle as it goes and is out from four to six weeks, according to +the number of ranches that are included in the circuit. +</P> + +<P> +When camp is made and everything ready for work the cowboys ride out in +different directions and drive in all the cattle they can find. After +the cattle are all gathered the calves are branded and the cattle of +the several owners are cut into separate herds and held until the +round-up is finished when they are driven home. +</P> + +<P> +Every unbranded calf is caught and branded in its mother's brand. In a +mix-up of cattle as occurs at a round-up, a calf sometimes gets +separated from its mother so that when caught its identity is +uncertain. To avoid making a mistake the calf is only slightly marked, +just enough to hurt it a little, and is then turned loose. A calf when +it is hurt is very much like a child, in that it cries and wants its +mamma. As quick as it is let go it immediately hunts its mother and +never fails to find her. When cow and calf have come together the calf +is again caught and the branding finished. +</P> + +<P> +The pain produced by the hot branding iron makes the calf bawl lustily +and struggle to free itself. The mother cow sometimes resents the +punishment of her offspring by charging and chasing the men who are +doing the branding; or, if she is of a less fiery disposition, shows +her displeasure by a look of reproach as much as to say, "You bad men, +what have you done to hurt my little darling?" +</P> + +<P> +A peculiarity of brands is that they do not all grow alike. Sometimes +a brand, after it is healed, remains unchanged during the life of the +animal. At other times it enlarges to several times its original size. +Various reasons are assigned to account for this difference. Some +claim that the brand only grows with the calf; others assert that it is +due to deep branding; and, again, it is ascribed to lunar influence. +But, as to the real cause of the difference, no explanation has been +given that really explains the phenomenon. +</P> + +<P> +The cowboy's work is nearly all done in the saddle and calls for much +hard riding. He rides like a Centaur, but is clumsy on his feet. +Being so much in the saddle his walking muscles become weakened, and +his legs pressing against the body of his horse, in time, makes him +bowlegged. In addition he wears high-heeled Mexican boots which throw +him on his toes when he walks and makes his already shambling gait even +more awkward. +</P> + +<P> +A cowboy's life has little in it to inspire him with high ideals or +arouse his ambition to achieve greatness. He leads a hard life among +rough men and receives only coarse fare and rougher treatment. His +life is narrow and he works in a rut that prevents him from taking a +broad view of life. All that he has is his monthly wages, and, +possibly, a hope that at some future day he may have a herd of cattle +of his own. +</P> + +<P> +Managing a herd of range cattle successfully is an art that can only be +acquired by long practice, and it is surprising how expert men can +become at that business. All the work done among cattle is on +horseback, which includes herding, driving, cutting and roping. The +trained cow pony seemingly knows as much about a round-up as his +master, and the two, together, form a combination that is invincible in +a herd of wild cattle. The cow or steer that is selected to be roped +or cut out rarely escapes. While the horse is in hot pursuit the rider +dexterously whirls his reata above his head until, at a favorable +moment, it leaves his hand, uncoiling as it flies through the air, and, +if the throw is successful, the noose falls over the animal's head. +Suddenly the horse comes to a full stop and braces himself for the +shock. When the animal caught reaches the end of the rope it is +brought to an abrupt halt and tumbled in a heap on the ground. The +horse stands braced pulling on the rope which has been made fast to the +horn of the saddle by a few skillful turns. The cowboy is out of the +saddle and on his feet in a jiffy. He grasps the prostrate animal by +the tail and a hind leg, throws it on its side, and ties its four feet +together, so that it is helpless and ready for branding or inspection. +The cowboys have tying contests in which a steer is sometimes caught +and tied in less time than a minute. +</P> + +<P> +It is a comical sight to see an unhorsed cowboy chase his runaway horse +on foot as he is almost sure to do if caught in such a predicament. He +ought to know that he cannot outrun his fleet steed in such a race, but +seems to be impelled by some strange impulse to make the attempt. +After he has run himself out of breath he is liable to realize the +folly of his zeal and adopt a more sensible method for capturing his +horse. +</P> + +<P> +The cowboy who works on the southwestern range has good cause to fear +the malodorous hydrophobia skunk. At a round-up all of the cowboys +sleep on the ground. During the night, while they are asleep, the +little black and white cat-like animal forages through the camp for +something to eat. Without provocation the skunk will attack the +sleeper and fasten its sharp teeth in some exposed portion of his +anatomy, either the nose or a finger or toe and will not let go until +it is killed or forcibly removed. The wound thus made usually heals +quickly and the incident is, perhaps, soon forgotten; but after several +weeks or months hydrophobia suddenly develops and proves fatal in a +short time. +</P> + +<P> +The only known cure for the bite of the skunk is the Pasteur treatment +and, since its discovery, as soon as anyone is bitten, he is +immediately sent to the Pasteur Institute in Chicago for treatment. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap06"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VI +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RANCH HAPPENINGS +</H3> + +<P> +Ranch life is often full of thrilling incidents and adventures. The +cowboy in his travels about the country looking after cattle, hunting +wild game or, in turn, being hunted by yet wilder Indians, finds plenty +of novelty and excitement to break any fancied monotony which might be +considered as belonging to ranch life. In a number of visits to the +range country during the past twenty years, the writer has had an +opportunity to observe life on a ranch, and experience some of its +exciting adventures. +</P> + +<P> +One day in the summer of 1891, Dave Drew, our foreman, Tedrow, one of +the cowboys, and myself, made a trip into East Canon in the Dos Cabezas +mountains, in search of some large unbranded calves which had been seen +running there. We rode leisurely along for some time and passed +several small bunches of cattle without finding what we were looking +for. As we neared a bend in the canon, Dave, who rode in advance, saw +some cattle lying in the shade of a grove of live oak trees. Instantly +he spurred his horse into a run and chased after the cattle at full +speed, at the same time looking back and shouting that he saw two +mavericks and for us to hurry up and help catch them. It was a bad +piece of ground to cover and we found it difficult to make progress or +to even keep each other in sight. Tedrow hurried up as fast as he +could while I brought up the rear. +</P> + +<P> +In trying to get through in the direction that Dave had gone, we tried +to make a short cut in order to gain time, but soon found our way +completely blocked by immense boulders and dense thickets of cat-claw +bushes, which is a variety of mesquite covered with strong, sharp, +curved thorns. We turned back to find a better road and after some +time spent in hunting an opening we discovered a dim trail which soon +led us into a natural park of level ground hidden among the foothills. +Here we found Dave who alone had caught and tied down both the calves +and was preparing to start a fire to heat the branding irons. What he +had done seemed like magic and was entirely incomprehensible to an +inexperienced tenderfoot. +</P> + +<P> +Dave explained afterwards that to be successful in such a race much +depended on taking the cattle by surprise, and then by a quick, bold +dash start them running up the mountain, when it was possible to +overtake and rope them; but if once started to running down hill it was +not only unsafe to follow on horseback but in any event the cattle were +certain to escape. Taking them by surprise seemed to bewilder them and +before they could collect their scattered senses, so to speak, and +scamper off, the work of capture was done. +</P> + +<P> +Another adventure, which did not end so fortunately for met happened in +the fall of I 887 when the country was yet comparatively new to the +cattle business. I rode out one day in company with a cowboy to look +after strays and, incidentally, to watch for any game that might chance +to cross our path. We rode through seemingly endless meadows of fine +gramma grass and saw the sleek cattle feeding on plenty and enjoying +perfect contentment. Game, also, seemed to be abundant but very shy +and as we were not particularly hunting that kind of stock, we forebore +giving chase or firing at long range. +</P> + +<P> +After riding about among the hills back of the Pinaleno ranch and not +finding anything we concluded to return home. On starting back we +separated and took different routes, going by two parallel ravines in +order to cover more ground in our search. I had not gone far until I +found the cattle we were looking for going to water on the home trail. +Jogging on slowly after them and enjoying the beauty of the landscape, +I unexpectedly caught a glimpse of a deer lying down under a mesquite +tree on the brow of a distant hill. I was in plain sight of the deer, +which was either asleep or heedless of danger as it paid no attention +whatever to my presence. +</P> + +<P> +Deer and antelope soon become accustomed to horses and cattle and often +mix and feed familiarly with the stock grazing on the open range. The +deer did not change its position as I quietly rode by and out of sight +behind the hill. There I dismounted and stalked the quarry on foot, +cautiously making my way up the side of the hill to a point where I +would be within easy shooting distance. As I stood up to locate the +deer it jumped to its feet and was ready to make off, but before it +could start a shot from my Winchester put a bullet through its head, +and it scarcely moved after it fell. The deer was in good condition +and replenished our depleted ranch larder with some choice venison +steaks. The head, also, was a fine one the horns being just out of +velvet and each antler five pointed, was saved and mounted. +</P> + +<P> +The shot and my lusty halloo soon brought my cowboy friend to the spot. +Together we eviscerated the animal and prepared to pack it to camp on +my horse. As we were lifting it upon his back the bronco gave a +vicious kick which hit me in the left knee and knocked me down. The +blow, though severe, glanced off so that no bone was broken. What made +the horse kick was a mystery as he was considered safe and had carried +deer on other occasions. But a bronco, like a mule, is never +altogether reliable, particularly as to the action of its heels. With +some delay in getting started and in somewhat of a demoralized +condition we mounted and rode home. +</P> + +<P> +Soon after the accident I had a chill which was followed by a fever and +there was much pain and swelling in the knee that was hit. A ranch +house, if it happens to be a "stag camp" as ours was, is a cheerless +place in which to be sick, but everything considered, I was fortunate +in that it was not worse. By the liberal use of hot water and such +other simples as the place afforded I was soon better; but not until +after several months' treatment at home did the injured knee fully +recover its normal condition. +</P> + +<P> +The excitement of running cattle or hunting game on the open range in +those days was mild in comparison to the panicky feeling which +prevailed during every Indian outbreak. The experience of many years +had taught the people of Arizona what to expect at such a time and the +utter diabolical wickedness of the Apaches when out on the warpath. +During the early eighties many such raids occurred which were +accompanied by all the usual horrors of brutality and outrage of which +the Apaches are capable. +</P> + +<P> +When it became known in the fall of 1885 that Geronimo was again off +the reservation and out on another one of his bloody raids the people +became panic-stricken. Some left the Territory until such time when +the Indian question would be settled and the Government could guarantee +freedom from Indian depredations. Those who remained either fled to +some near town or fort for protection, or prepared to defend themselves +in their own homes as best they could. +</P> + +<P> +What else could the settlers in a new country do? They had everything +invested in either mines or cattle and could not afford to leave their +property without making some effort to save it even if it had to be +done at the risk of their own lives. They had no means of knowing when +or where the stealthy Apaches would strike and could only wait for the +time in uncertainty and suspense. Many who were in this uncomfortable +predicament managed to escape any harm, but others fell victims to +savage hatred whose death knell was sounded in the crack of the deadly +rifle. +</P> + +<P> +Some personal experiences may help to illustrate this feeling of panic, +as I happened to be at the ranch during the time and know how it was +myself. +</P> + +<P> +One day in the month of October, 1885, while Geronimo was making his +raid through southern Arizona, my brother and I rode through Railroad +Pass from Pinaleno ranch to the Lorentz Place, a distance of fifteen +miles. It was about four o'clock in the afternoon that we ascended to +the top of a hill to take observations and see if anything was +happening out of the ordinary. We saw nothing unusual until we were +about to leave when we noticed somewhat of a commotion on the old +Willcox and Bowie wagon road which parallels the Southern Pacific +track. The distance was too great to see distinctly with the naked +eye, but looking through our field glasses, which we always carried +when out riding, we could plainly see three loaded wagons standing in +the road. The drivers had evidently unhitched their teams and, mounted +upon the horses' backs, were riding furiously in a cloud of dust down +the road towards Bowie. +</P> + +<P> +I asked the judge, who was a resident and supposed to be familiar with +the customs of the country while I was only a tenderfoot, what their +actions meant. He admitted that he did not understand their conduct +unless it was that they had concluded that they could not make Willcox +on that day and were returning to some favorable camp ground which they +had passed on their way up, to spend the night; but the manner of their +going was certainly peculiar. After watching them disappear down the +road we rode on and reached our destination in safety. +</P> + +<P> +The incident was forgotten until a few days later when we were in +Willcox a friend inquired what had become of the Indians which had +lately been seen on our range. We replied that we had not seen any +Indians nor known of any that had been there. He then related to us +how only a few days before three freighters had seen two Indians ride +upon a hill and halt. The sight of Indians was enough and their only +care after that was to get away from them. They quickly unhitched +their horses from the wagons and rode ten miles to Bowie where they +gave the alarm and spent the night. The next morning, having heard +nothing more from the Indians during the night, they took fresh courage +and ventured to return to their wagons, which they found as they had +left them unmolested, when they continued their journey. + When the freighters were asked why they did not stand off the<BR> +Indians they said that they only had one gun and not knowing how many +more redskins there might be decided that to retreat was the better +part of valor. It was my brother and I whom they had seen and mistaken +for Indians. +</P> + +<P> +A few days after this event I had a similar scare of my own and after +it was over I could sympathize with the poor, frightened freighters. I +was alone at the ranch house packing up and preparing to leave for +home. While thus occupied I chanced to go to the open door and looking +out, to my dismay, I saw Indians. "My heart jumped into my mouth" and +for a moment I felt that my time had surely come. Two men were seen +riding horseback over the foot hills followed by a pack animal. As I +stood watching them and took time to think, it occurred to me that I +might be mistaken, and that the men were not Indians after all. As +they drew nearer I saw that they were dressed like white men and, +therefore, could not be Indians; but my scare while it lasted was +painfully real. The men proved to be two neighboring ranchmen who were +out looking for lost cattle. +</P> + +<P> +In this raid, the Apaches, after leaving their reservation in the White +mountains, traveled south along the Arizona and New Mexico line, +killing people as they went, until they reached Stein's Pass. From +there they turned west, crossed the San Simon valley and disappeared in +the Chiricahua mountains. When next seen they had crossed over the +mountains and attacked Riggs' ranch in Pinery canon, where they wounded +a woman, but were driven off. +</P> + +<P> +The next place that they visited was the Sulphur Spring ranch of the +Chiricahua Cattle Company, where they stole a bunch of horses. The +cowboys at the ranch had received warning that there were Indians about +and had brought in the horse herd from the range and locked them in the +corral. The Apaches came in the night and with their usual adroitness +and cunning stole the corral empty. The first intimation which the +inmates had that the ranch had been robbed was when the cowboys went in +the morning to get their horses they found them gone. +</P> + +<P> +From the Sulphur Spring ranch they crossed the Sulphur Spring valley in +the direction of Cochise's stronghold in the Dragoon mountains. Before +reaching the mountains they passed Mike Noonan's ranch where they shot +its owner, who was a lone rancher and had lived alone in the valley +many years. He was found dead in his door yard with a bullet hole in +the back of his head. He evidently did not know that the Indians were +near and was seemingly unconscious of any danger when he was killed. +</P> + +<P> +The Indians were not seen again after entering the stronghold until +they crossed the line into Mexico, where they were pursued by United +States soldiers. After a long, stern chase Geronimo surrendered +himself and followers to General Miles, who brought them back to +Arizona. As prisoners they were all loaded into cars at Bowie and +taken to Florida. The general in command thought it best to take them +clear out of the country in order to put an effectual stop to their +marauding. Later they were removed to the Indian Territory where they +now live. +</P> + +<P> +The rest of the Apaches remain in Arizona and live on the San Carlos +reservation on the Gila river where they are being inducted into +civilization. Since the disturbing element among them has been removed +there has been no more trouble. They seem to have settled down with a +sincere purpose to learn the white man's way and are quiet and +peaceable. They are laborers, farmers and stockmen and are making +rapid progress in their new life. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap07"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VII +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +A MODEL RANCH +</H3> + +<P> +Any one who has been in Arizona and failed to visit the Sierra Bonita +ranch missed seeing a model ranch. Henry C. Hooker, the owner of this +splendid property, was born in New England and is a typical Yankee, who +early emigrated west and has spent most of his life on the frontier. +</P> + +<P> +He went to Arizona at the close of the Civil War and engaged in +contracting for the Government and furnishing supplies to the army. It +was before the days of railroads when all merchandise was hauled +overland in wagons and cattle were driven through on foot. He +outfitted at points in Texas and on the Rio Grande and drove his cattle +and wagons over hundreds of miles of desert road through a country that +was infested by hostile Indians. +</P> + +<P> +Such a wild life was naturally full of adventures and involved much +hardship and danger. The venture, however, prospered and proved a +financial success, notwithstanding some losses in men killed, wagons +pillaged and cattle driven off and lost by bands of marauding Apaches. +</P> + +<P> +In his travels he saw the advantages that Arizona offered as a grazing +country, which decided him to locate a ranch and engage in the range +cattle business. +</P> + +<P> +The ranch derives its name from the Graham or Pinaleno mountains which +the Indians called the Sierra Bonita because of the many beautiful wild +flowers that grow there. It is twenty miles north of Willcox, a +thriving village on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and ten miles south +of Ft. Grant, that nestles in a grove of cotton trees at the foot of +Mt. Graham, the noblest mountain in southern Arizona. +</P> + +<P> +The Sierra Bonita ranch is situated in the famous Sulphur Spring valley +in Cochise County, Arizona, which is, perhaps, the only all grass +valley in the Territory. The valley is about twenty miles wide and +more than one hundred miles long and extends into Mexico. Its waters +drain in opposite directions, part flowing south into the Yaqui river, +and part running north through the Aravaipa Canon into the Gila and +Colorado rivers, all to meet and mingle again in the Gulf of California. +</P> + +<P> +Fine gramma grass covers the entire valley and an underground river +furnishes an inexhaustible supply of good water. In the early days of +overland travel before the country was protected or any of its +resources were known, immigrants, who were bound for California by the +Southern route and ignorant of the near presence of water, nearly +perished from thirst while crossing the valley. +</P> + +<P> +The water rises to within a few feet of the surface and, since its +discovery, numerous wells have been dug and windmills and ranch houses +dot the landscape in all directions; while thousands of cattle feed and +fatten on the nutritious gramma grass. Its altitude is about four +thousand feet above the sea and the climate is exceptionally fine. +</P> + +<P> +The Sierra Bonita ranch is located on a natural cienega of moist land +that has been considerably enlarged by artificial means. In an average +year the natural water supply of the ranch is sufficient for all +purposes but, to guard against any possible shortage in a dry year, +water is brought from the mountains in ditches that have been +constructed at great labor and expense and is stored in reservoirs, to +be used as needed for watering the cattle and irrigating the fields. +The effect of water upon the desert soil is almost magical and even +though the rains fail and the earth be parched, on the moist land of +the cienega the fields of waving grass and grain are perennially green. +</P> + +<P> +The owner has acquired by location and purchase, title to several +thousand acres of land, that is all fenced and much of it highly +cultivated. It consists of a strip of land one mile wide and ten miles +long, which is doubly valuable because of its productiveness and as the +key that controls a fine open range. +</P> + +<P> +The original herd of cattle that pastured on the Sierra Bonita ranch +thirty years ago was composed of native scrub stock from Texas and +Sonora. This undesirable stock was sold at the first opportunity, and +the range re-stocked by an improved grade of Durham cattle. The change +was a long stride in the direction of improvement, but, later on, +another change was made to Herefords, and during recent years only +whitefaces have been bred upon the ranch. +</P> + +<P> +Col. Hooker has a strong personality, holds decided opinions and +believes in progress and improvement. He has spent much time and money +in experimental work, and his success has demonstrated the wisdom of +his course. Just such men are needed in every new country to develop +its resources and prove its worth. +</P> + +<P> +He saw that the primitive methods of ranching then in vogue must be +improved, and began to prepare for the change which was coming. What +he predicted came to pass, and the days of large herds on the open +range are numbered. +</P> + +<P> +Many of them have already been sold or divided up, and it is a question +Of only a short time when the rest will meet the same fate. +</P> + +<P> +When this is done there may be no fewer cattle than there are now but +they will be bunched in smaller herds and better cared for. Scrubs of +any kind are always undesirable, since it has been proved that quality +is more profitable than quantity. A small herd is more easily handled, +and there is less danger of loss from straying or stealing. +</P> + +<P> +The common method of running cattle on the open range is reckless and +wasteful in the extreme and entirely inexcusable. The cattle are +simply turned loose to rustle for themselves. No provision whatever is +made for their welfare, except that they are given the freedom of the +range to find water, if they can, and grass that often affords them +only scant picking. +</P> + +<P> +Under the new regime the cattle are carefully fed and watered, if need +be in a fenced enclosure, that not only gives the cattle humane +treatment but also makes money for the owner. The men are instructed +to bring in every sick or weak animal found on the range and put it +into a corral or pasture, where it is nursed back to life. If an +orphan calf is found that is in danger of starving it is picked up, +carried home and fed. On the average ranch foundlings and weaklings +get no attention whatever, but are left in their misery to pine away +and perish from neglect. The profit of caring for the weak and sick +animals on the Sierra Bonita ranch amounts to a large sum every year, +which the owner thinks is worth saving. +</P> + +<P> +Another peculiarity of ranch life is that where there are hundreds or, +perhaps, thousands of cows in a herd, not a single cow is milked, nor +is a cup of milk or pound of butter ever seen upon the ranch table. It +is altogether different on Hooker's ranch. There is a separate herd of +milch cows in charge of a man whose duty it is to keep the table +supplied with plenty of fresh milk and butter. No milk ever goes to +waste. If there is a surplus it is fed to the calves, pigs and poultry. +</P> + +<P> +During the branding season the work of the round-up is all done in +corrals instead of, as formerly, out upon the open range. Each calf +after it is branded, if it is old and strong enough to wean, is taken +from the cow and turned into a separate pasture. It prevents the weak +mother cow from being dragged to death by a strong sucking calf and +saves the pampered calf from dying of blackleg by a timely change of +diet. +</P> + +<P> +Instead of classing the cattle out on the open range as is the usual +custom, by an original system of corrals, gates and chutes the cattle +are much more easily and quickly classified without any cruelty or +injury inflicted upon either man or beast. Classing cattle at a +round-up by the old method is a hard and often cruel process, that +requires a small army of both men and horses and is always rough and +severe on the men, horses and cattle. +</P> + +<P> +Besides the herds of sleek cattle, there are also horses galore, enough +to do all of the work on the ranch as well as for pleasure riding and +driving. There is likewise a kennel of fine greyhounds that are the +Colonel's special pride. His cattle, horses and dogs are all of the +best, as he believes in thoroughbreds and has no use whatever for +scrubs of either the human or brute kind. +</P> + +<P> +The dogs are fond of their master and lavish their caresses on him with +almost human affection. In the morning when they meet him at the door +Ketchum pokes his nose into one of his master's half open hands and +Killum performs the same act with the other hand. Blackie nips him +playfully on the leg while Dash and the rest of the pack race about +like mad, trying to express the exuberance of their joy. +</P> + +<P> +In the bunch is little Bob, the fox terrier, who tries hard but is not +always able to keep up with the hounds in a race. He is active and +gets over the ground lively for a small dog, but in a long chase is +completely distanced and outclassed to his apparent disgust. Aside +from the fine sport that the dogs afford, they are useful in keeping +the place clear of all kinds of "varmints" such as coyotes, skunks and +wild cats. +</P> + +<P> +How much Col. Hooker appreciates his dogs is best illustrated by an +incident. One morning after greeting the dogs at the door, he was +heard to remark sotto voce. +</P> + +<P> +"Well, if everybody on the ranch is cross, my dogs always greet me with +a smile." +</P> + +<P> +There appears to be much in the dog as well as in the horse that is +human, and the trio are capable of forming attachments for each other +that only death can part. +</P> + +<P> +The ranch house is a one-story adobe structure built in the Spanish +style of a rectangle, with all the doors opening upon a central court. +It is large and commodious, is elegantly furnished and supplied with +every modern convenience. It affords every needed comfort for a family +and is in striking contrast with the common ranch house of the range +that is minus every luxury and often barely furnishes the necessaries +of life. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap08"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VIII +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SOME DESERT PLANTS +</H3> + +<P> +Much of the vegetation that is indigenous to the southwest is unique +and can only be seen at its best in the Gila valley in southern +Arizona. The locality indicated is in the arid zone and is extremely +hot and dry. Under such conditions it is but natural to suppose that +all plant life must necessarily be scant and dwarfed, but such is not +the fact. Upon the contrary many of the plants that are native to the +soil and adapted to the climate grow luxuriantly, are remarkably +succulent and perennially green. +</P> + +<P> +How they manage to acquire so much sap amidst the surrounding siccity +is inexplicable, unless it is that they possess the function of +absorbing and condensing moisture by an unusual and unknown method. It +is, however, a beneficent provision of nature as a protection against +famine in a droughty land by furnishing in an acceptable form, +refreshing juice and nutritious pulp to supply the pressing wants of +hungry and thirsty man and beast in time of need. +</P> + +<P> +Another peculiarity of these plants is that they are acanaceous; +covered all over with sharp thorns and needles. Spikes of all sorts +and sizes bristle everywhere and admonish the tenderfoot to beware. +Guarded by an impenetrable armor of prickly mail they defy encroachment +and successfully repel all attempts at undue familiarity. To be torn +by a cat-claw thorn or impaled on a stout dagger leaf of one of these +plants would not only mean painful laceration but, perhaps, serious or +even fatal injury. Notwithstanding their formidable and forbidding +appearance they are nevertheless attractive and possess some value +either medicinal, commercial or ornamental. +</P> + +<P> +The maguey, or American aloe, is the most abundant and widely +distributed of the native plants. It is commonly known as mescal, but +is also called the century plant from a mistaken notion that it +blossoms only once in a hundred years. Its average life, under normal +conditions, is about ten years and it dies immediately after blossoming. +</P> + +<P> +It attains its greatest perfection in the interior of Mexico where it +is extensively cultivated. It yields a large quantity of sap which is, +by a simple process of fermentation, converted into a liquor called +pulque that tastes best while it is new and is consumed in large +quantities by the populace. Pulque trains are run daily from the +mescal plantations, where the pulque is made, into the large cities to +supply the bibulous inhabitants with their customary beverage. In +strength and effect it resembles lager beer, and is the popular drink +with all classes throughout Mexico where it has been in vogue for +centuries and is esteemed as "the only drink fit for thirsty angels and +men." +</P> + +<P> +The agave is capable of being applied to many domestic uses. Under the +old dispensation of Indian supremacy it supplied the natives their +principal means of support. Its sap was variously prepared and served +as milk, honey, vinegar, beer and brandy. From its tough fiber were +made thread, rope, cloth, shoes and paper. The strong flower stalk was +used in building houses and the broad leaves for covering them. +</P> + +<P> +The heart of the maguey is saccharine and rich in nutriment. It is +prepared by roasting it in a mescal pit and, when done, tastes much +like baked squash. It is highly prized by the Indians, who use it as +their daily bread. Before the Apaches were conquered and herded on +reservations a mescal bake was an important event with them. It meant +the gathering of the clans and was made the occasion of much feasting +and festivity. Old mescal pits can yet be found in some of the +secluded corners of the Apache country that were once the scenes of +noisy activity, but have been forsaken and silent for many years. +</P> + +<P> +The fiery mescal, a distilled liquor that is known to the trade as +aguardiente, or Mexican brandy, is much stronger than pulque, but less +used. Both liquors are said to be medicinal, and are reputed to +possess diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties. +</P> + +<P> +Next in importance to the mescal comes the yucca. There are several +varieties, but the palm yucca is the most common, and under favorable +conditions attains to the proportions of a tree. Fine specimens of +yucca grow on the Mojave desert in California that are large and +numerous enough to form a straggling forest. +</P> + +<P> +The tree consists of a light, spongy wood that grows as a single stem +or divides into two or more branches. Each branch is crowned by a tuft +of long, pointed leaves that grow in concentric circles. As the new +leaves unfold on top the old leaves are crowded down and hang in loose +folds about the stem like a flounced skirt. When dry the leaves burn +readily, and are sometimes used for light and heat by lost or belated +travelers. White threads of a finer fiber are detached from the +margins of the leaves that are blown by the wind into a fluffy fleece, +in which the little birds love to nest. +</P> + +<P> +A grove of yucca trees presents a grotesque appearance. If +indistinctly viewed in the hazy distance they are easily mistaken for +the plumed topknots of a band of prowling Apaches, particularly if the +imagination is active with the fear of an Indian outbreak. +</P> + +<P> +The wood of the yucca tree has a commercial value. It is cut into thin +sheets by machinery which are used for surgeon's splints, hygienic +insoles, tree protectors and calendars. As a splint it answers an +admirable purpose, being both light and strong and capable of being +molded into any shape desired after it has been immersed in hot water. +Its pulp, also, makes an excellent paper. +</P> + +<P> +Another variety of yucca is the amole, or soap plant. Owing to the +peculiar shape of its leaves it is also called Spanish bayonet. Its +root is saponaceous, and is pounded into a pulp and used instead of +soap by the natives. It grows a bunch of large white flowers, and +matures an edible fruit that resembles the banana. The Indians call it +oosa, and eat it, either raw or roasted in hot ashes. +</P> + +<P> +A species of yucca called sotal, or saw-grass, grows plentifully in +places, and is sometimes used as food for cattle when grass is scarce. +In its natural state it is inaccessible to cattle because of its hard +and thorny exterior. To make it available it is cut down and quartered +with a hoe, when the hungry cattle eat it with avidity. Where the +plant grows thickly one man can cut enough in one day to feed several +hundred head of cattle. +</P> + +<P> +There are several other varieties of yucca that possess no particular +value, but all are handsome bloomers, and the mass of white flowers +which unfold during the season of efflorescence adds much to the beauty +of the landscape. +</P> + +<P> +The prickly pear cactus, or Indian fig, of the genus Opuntia is a +common as well as a numerous family. The soil and climate of the +southwest from Texas to California seem to be just to its liking. It +grows rank and often forms dense thickets. The root is a tough wood +from which, it is said, the best Mexican saddletrees are made. +</P> + +<P> +The plant consists of an aggregation of thick, flat, oval leaves, which +are joined together by narrow bands of woody fiber and covered with +bundles of fine, sharp needles. Its pulp is nutritious and cattle like +the young leaves, but will not eat them after they become old and hard +unless driven to do so by the pangs of hunger. In Texas the plant is +gathered in large quantities and ground into a fine pulp by machinery +which is then mixed with cotton-seed meal and fed to cattle. The +mixture makes a valuable fattening ration and is used for finishing +beef steers for the market. +</P> + +<P> +The cholla, or cane cactus, is also a species of Opuntia, but its stem +or leaf is long and round instead of short and flat. It is thickly +covered with long, fine, silvery-white needles that glisten in the sun. +Its stem is hollow and filled with a white pith like the elder. After +the prickly bark is stripped off the punk can be picked out through the +fenestra with a penknife, which occupation affords pleasant pastime for +a leisure hour. When thus furbished up the unsightly club becomes an +elegant walking stick. +</P> + +<P> +The cholla is not a pleasant companion as all persons know who have had +any experience with it. Its needles are not only very sharp, but also +finely barbed, and they penetrate and cling fast like a burr the moment +that they are touched. Cowboys profess to believe that the plant has +some kind of sense as they say that it jumps and takes hold of its +victim before it is touched. This action, however, is only true in the +seeming, as its long transparent needles, being invisible, are touched +before they are seen. When they catch hold of a moving object, be it +horse or cowboy, an impulse is imparted to the plant that makes it seem +to jump. It is an uncanny movement and is something more than an +ocular illusion, as the victim is ready to testify. +</P> + +<P> +These desert plants do not ordinarily furnish forage for live stock, +but in a season of drought when other feed is scarce and cattle are +starving they will risk having their mouths pricked by thorns in order +to get something to eat and will browse on mescal, yucca and cactus and +find some nourishment in the unusual diet, enough, at least, to keep +them from dying. The plants mentioned are not nearly as plentiful now +as they once were. Because of the prolonged droughts that prevail in +the range country and the overstocking of the range these plants are in +danger of being exterminated and, if the conditions do not soon change, +of becoming extinct. +</P> + +<P> +The saguaro, or giant cactus, is one of nature's rare and curious +productions. It is a large, round, fluted column that is from one to +two feet thick and sometimes sixty feet high. The trunk is nearly of +an even thickness from top to bottom but, if there is any difference, +it is a trifle thicker in the middle. It usually stands alone as a +single perpendicular column, but is also found bunched in groups. If +it has any branches they are apt to start at right angles from about +the middle of the tree and curve upward, paralleling the trunk, which +form gives it the appearance of a mammoth candelabrum. +</P> + +<P> +The single saguaro pillar bears a striking resemblance to a Corinthian +column. As everything in art is an attempt to imitate something in +nature, is it possible that Grecian architecture borrowed its notable +pattern from the Gila valley? +</P> + +<P> +Southern Arizona is the natural home and exclusive habitat of this most +singular and interesting plant and is, perhaps, the only thing growing +anywhere that could have suggested the design. Wherever it grows, it +is a conspicuous object on the landscape and has been appropriately +named "The Sentinel of the Desert." +</P> + +<P> +Its mammoth body is supported by a skeleton of wooden ribs, which are +held in position by a mesh of tough fibers that is filled with a green +pulp. Rows of thorns extend its entire length which are resinous and, +if ignited, burn with a bright flame. They are sometimes set on fire +and have been used by the Apaches for making signals. The cactus tree, +like the eastern forest tree, is often found bored full of round, holes +that are made by the Gila woodpecker. When the tree dies its pulp +dries up and blows away and there remains standing only a spectral +figure composed of white slats and fiber that looks ghostly in the +distance. +</P> + +<P> +Its fruit is delicious and has the flavor of the fig and strawberry +combined. It is dislodged by the greedy birds which feed on it and by +arrows shot from bows in the hands of the Indians. The natives esteem +the fruit as a great delicacy, and use it both fresh and dried and in +the form of a treacle or preserve. +</P> + +<P> +The ocotillo, or mountain cactus, is a handsome shrub that grows in +rocky soil upon the foothills and consists of a cluster of nearly +straight poles of brittle wood covered with thorns and leaves. It +blossoms during the early summer and each branch bears on its crest a +bunch of bright crimson flowers. +</P> + +<P> +If set in a row the plant makes an ornamental hedge and effective fence +for turning stock. The seemingly dry sticks are thrust into yet drier +ground where they take root and grow without water. Its bark is +resinous and a fagot of dry sticks makes a torch that is equal to a +pineknot. +</P> + +<P> +The echinocactus, or bisnaga, is also called "The Well of the Desert." +It has a large barrel-shaped body which is covered with long spikes +that are curved like fishhooks. It is full of sap that is sometimes +used to quench thirst. By cutting off the top and scooping out a +hollow, the cup-shaped hole soon fills with a sap that is not exactly +nectar but can be drunk in an emergency. Men who have been in danger +of perishing from thirst on the desert have sometimes been saved by +this unique method of well digging. +</P> + +<P> +Greasewood, or creasote bush as it is sometimes called on account of +its pungent odor, grows freely on the desert, but has little or no +value and cattle will not touch it. Like many other desert plants it +is resinous and if thrown into the fire, the green leaves spit and +sputter while they burn like hot grease in a frying pan. +</P> + +<P> +The mesquite tree is peculiarly adapted to the desert and is the most +valuable tree that grows in the southwest. As found growing on the dry +mesas of Arizona, it is only a small bush, but on the moist land of a +river bottom it becomes a large forest tree. A mesquite forest stands +in the Santa Cruz valley south of Tucson that is a fair sample of its +growth under favorable conditions. +</P> + +<P> +Its wood is hard and fine grained and polishes beautifully. It is very +durable and is valuable for lumber, fence posts and firewood. On the +dry mesas it seems to go mostly to root that is out of all proportion +to the size of the tree. The amount of firewood that is sometimes +obtained by digging up the root of a small mesquite bush is astonishing. +</P> + +<P> +It makes a handsome and ornamental shade tree, having graceful +branches, feathery leaves and fragrant flowers, and could be cultivated +to advantage for yard and park purposes. +</P> + +<P> +Its principal value, however, lies in its seed pods, which grow in +clusters and look like string beans. The mesquite bean furnishes a +superior article of food and feeds about everything that either walks +or flies on the desert. The Indians make meal of the seed and bake it +into bread. Cattle that feed on the open range will leave good grass +to browse on a mesquite bush. Even as carnivorous a creature as the +coyote will make a full meal on a mess of mesquite beans and seem to be +satisfied. The tree exudes a gum that is equal to the gum arabic of +commerce. +</P> + +<P> +The palo verde is a tree without leaves and is a true child of the +desert. No matter how hot and dry the weather the palo verde is always +green and flourishing. At a distance it resembles a weeping willow +tree stripped of its leaves. Its numerous long, slender, drooping +branches gracefully criss-cross and interlace in an intricate figure of +filigree work. It has no commercial value, but if it could be +successfully transplanted and transported it would make a desirable +addition to green-house collections in the higher latitudes. +</P> + +<P> +The romantic mistletoe that is world renowned for its magic influence +in love affairs, grows to perfection in southern Arizona. There are +several varieties of this parasitic plant that are very unlike in +appearance. Each kind partakes more or less of the characteristics of +the tree upon which it grows, but all have the glossy leaf and waxen +berry. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap09"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER IX +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS +</H3> + +<P> +Arizona has several hot springs within her borders but, perhaps, none +are more valuable nor picturesquely located than Hooker's hot springs. +These springs are located in the foothills on the western slope of the +Galiura mountains in southeastern Arizona, thirty-five miles west of +Willcox on the Southern Pacific Railroad. The spot is beautifully +situated, commanding an extended view of valley and mountain scenery. +</P> + +<P> +There are a dozen springs, big and little, in the group and are +scattered over several acres of hillside. The temperature of the water +is 130 degrees Fahrenheit and too hot to drink but, if sipped slowly, +it makes an admirable hot-water draught. The springs evidently have +their source deep down in the earth and the flow of water never varies. +When the water from the different springs is all united it forms a good +sized brook. The water is conducted through pipes into the bath house, +where it supplies a row of bath-tubs with water of any desired +temperature. The surplus water flows into a large earthern tank or +artificial lake and is used for irrigating a small farm that produces +grain, fruits and vegetables. +</P> + +<P> +The water from these springs is in great demand and is not only sought +by the human biped, but is also in favor with the equine quadruped. +Every morning after the stable doors are thrown open and the horses +turned loose they invariably, of their own accord, proceed to the lake, +wade out into shallow water and take a bath. They lie down and splash +the water about like a lot of schoolboys taking a swim. +</P> + +<P> +The water from all the springs is perfectly soft and pure. It cannot +be called a mineral water, as an analysis shows that it contains only a +trace of any kind of mineral matter. This peculiarity of the water is +no damage to the springs, since purity is the best recommendation that +any water can have. Water that is heavily mineralized may be +medicinal, but is not necessarily remedial, or even wholesome, +notwithstanding the popular belief to the contrary. Water that is +charged with much mineral is spoiled for drinking. Moderately hard +water need not be injurious to anybody, but is especially beneficial to +children. The assimilative function in the child appropriates mineral +water tardily and sometimes absorbs it altogether too slowly for the +child's good. Its absence in the system causes a disease called +rickets, in which, from all lack of lime, the bones of the child become +soft and yielding. The bones of a rickety child will bend rather than +break. It is slow to walk and inclines to become bow-legged. +</P> + +<P> +It is entirely different in old age. As the years multiply the system +absorbs an abnormal and ever increasing amount of calcareous matter. +The bones become unduly hard and brittle and are easily broken. Bony +matter is liable to be deposited in and about the joints, when they +become stiff and painful. It also lodges in the various soft tissues +of the body, and ossification of the valves of the heart and walls of +the arteries sometimes happens. It weakens the blood vessels so that +they easily rupture, which causes apoplexy, paralysis and death. +Calcareous concretions in the kidneys and bladder, also, come from the +same cause, and are called gravel. Such deposits are not only annoying +and painful to the patient, but in time may prove fatal if not removed +by surgery. +</P> + +<P> +Middle-aged and elderly people should never drink anything but soft +water. If a natural supply of soft water cannot be obtained distilled +water should be substituted. If neither natural soft water nor +distilled water are available, and there is doubt as to the purity of +the water that is being used, it should be boiled and then let stand to +cool and settle. Boiling not only destroys and renders harmless any +organic germs that may be present, but also precipitates and eliminates +much of its inorganic salts. +</P> + +<P> +A few drops of a weak solution of nitrate of silver added to a glass of +water will quickly determine its quality. If the water that is being +tested is free from mineral matter no change is produced, but if it +contains mineral it turns the water opaque or milky. +</P> + +<P> +The value of mineral water as a healthful or necessary drink has been +greatly exaggerated. While it may do good in some instances, it is not +nearly as beneficial as is commonly supposed. Instead of it always +doing good the contrary is often true. +</P> + +<P> +If a mineral water is desired there is no necessity of visiting a +mineral spring to obtain it, as it can be made artificially at home or +at the nearest pharmacy in any quantity or of any quality desired, with +the additional advantage of having it contain exactly the ingredients +wanted. There are nearly as many mineral waters on the market as there +are patent medicines, and both are about equally misrepresented and +deceiving. All classes of people would undoubtedly be greatly +benefited in health, strength and longevity if more attention was given +to the quality of our domestic water supply. Any one who needs a +change, other things being equal, should seek a resort that furnishes +pure, soft water rather than choose a spring that only boasts of its +mineral properties. Not all of the benefit that is derived from a +course at watering place is due to the virtues of the water, be it ever +so potent. The change of environment, climate, diet, bathing, etc., +are each factors that contribute something towards a cure. +</P> + +<P> +Next to using pure water as a beverage it is important to know how to +bathe properly, such knowledge being simple and plain enough if only +common sense is used. Usually the more simply a bath is administered +the better are the results. Some people seem to think that in order to +derive any benefit from a bath it is necessary to employ some unusual +or complicated process. Nothing is further from the truth. The plain, +tepid bath is the best for general use. It thoroughly cleanses the +body and produces no unpleasant shock. A hot bath is rarely needed +but, if it is used, enough time should be given after it to rest and +cool off before going out into the open air in order to avoid taking +cold. The good or harm of a bath must be judged by its effects. +</P> + +<P> +A bath is only beneficial when it is followed by a healthy reaction, +which is indicated by an agreeable feeling of warmth and comfort, and +is injurious if the subject feels cold, weak or depressed. A bath does +not affect all people alike; what will do one person good may injure +another. It is never wise to prescribe a stereotyped treatment for +every patient. The disease, temperament and constitution of each +individual must be taken into account and the temperature and frequency +of the bath must be determined and regulated by the necessity and +idiosyncrasies of each case. The amount of bathing that a strong, +full-blooded person could endure would mop out the life of a thin, +bloodless weakling. +</P> + +<P> +Locally, these springs have become famous because of the remarkable +cures they have effected, and are sought by many sick people who have +failed to find relief by other means. Before the white man came the +Indians used the water for curing their sick. The water is curative in +rheumatism, neuralgia, dyspepsia, blood and skin disorders and kidney +complaint. The water cure is all right even if it does not always +fulfill every expectation. +</P> + +<P> +Hooker's hot springs is a pleasant place to visit for people who are +not invalids. It is off the beaten path of travel and is an ideal spot +for the tired man who needs a rest. It has not yet been overrun by the +crowd, but retains all of the natural charm of freshness which the old +resorts have lost. Here nature riots in all of her wild beauty and has +not yet been perceptibly marred by the despoiling hand of man. +</P> + +<P> +Aside from the luxury of the baths which the place affords the visitor +can find a great deal to please him. The climate is healthful and the +weather pleasant during most of the year. In the near vicinity much +can be found in nature that is interesting. Never-failing mountain +streams, deep canons and dark forests wait to be visited and explored, +while curiosities in animal and vegetable life abound. Not far off is +a place here perfect geodes of chalcedony are found. +</P> + +<P> +Mining and ranching are the leading industries of the country and a +visit to some neighboring mine or cattle ranch is not without interest +to the novice. But, if he starts out on such a trip he must decide to +make a day of it, as the country is sparsely settled and the distances +long between camps. If the accommodations where he stops are not +always luxurious the welcome is cordial and the entertainment +comfortable. The new experience is also delightfully romantic. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap10"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER X +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CANON ECHOES +</H3> + +<P> +The Colorado Plateau, in northern Arizona, is the union of the Rocky +and Sierra Nevada mountains in their southward trend, and forms the +southern rim of the Great Basin. This depression was once a vast +inland sea, of which nothing remains but the Salt Lake of Utah, and is +drained by the Colorado river. The entire plateau region is remarkable +for its grand scenery--abysmal chasms, sculptured buttes and towering +cliffs, which are "brightly colored as if painted by artist Gods, not +stained and daubed by inharmonious hues but beautiful as flowers and +gorgeous as the clouds." The plateau is an immense woodland of pines +known as the Coconino Forest. +</P> + +<P> +The San Francisco mountains, nearly thirteen thousand feet high, stand +in the middle of the plateau which is, also, the center of an extensive +extinct volcanic field. The whole country is covered with cinders +which were thrown from active volcanoes centuries ago. The track of +the Santa Fe Pacific railroad, clear across Arizona, is ballasted with +cinders instead of gravel that were dug from pits on its own right of +way. +</P> + +<P> +Near the southern base of the San Francisco mountains is the town of +Flagstaff built in a natural forest of pine trees. It is sometimes +called the Skylight City because of its high altitude, rarefied +atmosphere and brilliant sky. It is said to have been named by a +company of soldiers who camped on the spot while out hunting Indians, +when the country was new. It happened to be on the Fourth of July and +they celebrated the day by unfurling Old Glory from the top of a pine +tree, which was stripped of its branches and converted into a +flagstaff. Here is located the Lowell Observatory, which has made many +valuable discoveries in astronomy. It is a delightful spot and offers +many attractions to the scientist, tourist and health seeker. +</P> + +<P> +One of the many interesting objects of this locality is the Ice Cave +situated eight miles southwest of the town. It not only attracts the +curious, but its congealed stores are also drawn on by the people who +live in the vicinity when the domestic ice supply runs short. The cave +is entered from the side of a ravine and its opening is arched by lava +rock. How the ice ever got there is a mystery unless it is, as Mr. +Volz claims, glacial ice that was covered and preserved by a thick coat +of cinders which fell when the San Francisco Peaks were in active +eruption. As far as observed the ice never becomes more nor ever gets +less, except what is removed by mining. +</P> + +<P> +The region is unusually attractive to the naturalist. It is the best +field for the study of entomology that is known. But all nature riots +here. Dr. C. Hart Merriam, in his report of a biological survey of the +San Francisco mountains and Painted Desert, states that there are seven +distinct life zones in a radius of twenty-five miles running the entire +gamut from the Arctic to the Tropic.[1] The variety of life which he +found and describes cannot be duplicated in the same space anywhere +else upon the globe. +</P> + +<P> +But the greatest natural wonder of this region and, it is claimed by +competent judges of the whole world, is the Grand Canon of Arizona, +which is seventy-two miles north of Flagstaff. Thurber's stage line, +when it was running, carried passengers through in one day, but after +the railroad was built from Williams to Bright Angel the stage was +abandoned. However it is an interesting trip and many people make it +every summer by private conveyance who go for an outing and can travel +leisurely. It is a good natural road and runs nearly the entire +distance through an open pine forest. +</P> + +<P> +Two roads leave Flagstaff for the Canon called respectively the summer +and winter roads. The former goes west of the San Francisco mountains +and intersects with the winter road that runs east of the peaks at +Cedar Ranch, which was the midway station of the old stage line. The +summer road is the one usually travelled, as the winter road is almost +destitute of water. +</P> + +<P> +The road ascends rapidly from an elevation of seven thousand feet at +Flagstaff to eleven thousand feet at the summit, and descends more +gradually to Cedar Ranch, where the elevation is less than five +thousand feet and in distance is about halfway to the Canon. Here +cedar and pinon trees take the place of the taller pines. Cedar Ranch +is on an arm of the Painted Desert, which stretches away towards the +east over a wide level plain to the horizon. From this point the road +ascends again on an easy grade until it reaches an elevation of eight +thousand feet at the Canon. +</P> + +<P> +During the long drive through the pine woods the appearance of the +country gives no hint of a desert, but beautiful scenery greets the eye +on every hand. The air is filled with the fragrance of pine and ozone +that is as exhilarating as wine. No signs of severe windstorms are +seen in broken branches and fallen trees. If an occasional tree is +found lying prostrate it was felled either by the woodman's ax or one +of nature's destructive forces, fire or decay, or both. But the large +number of shattered trees which are encountered during the day give +evidence that the lightning is frequently very destructive in its work. +The bark of the pine trees is of a reddish gray color, which contrasts +brightly with the green foliage. +</P> + +<P> +The winter road furnishes even more attractions than the summer road on +which line a railroad should be built through to the Canon. Soon after +leaving town a side road leads to the cliff dwellings in Walnut Canon. +Along the wayside a signboard points the direction to the Bottomless +Pit, which is a deep hole in the ground that is only one of many such +fissures in the earth found on the Colorado Plateau. Four miles east +of Canon Diablo a narrow fissure from a few inches to several feet +wide and hundreds of feet deep has been traced in a continuous line +over one hundred miles. +</P> + +<P> +Further on a group of cave dwellings can be seen among the rocks upon a +distant bill. A turn in the road next brings the Sunset Mountain into +view. Its crest glows with the colors of sunset, which unusual effect +is produced by colored rocks that are of volcanic origin. Black +cinders cover its steep sides and its brow is the rim of a deep crater. +Between Sunset Peak and O'Leary Peak is the Black Crater from which +flowed at one time thick streams of black lava that hardened into rock +and are known as the lava beds. Scores of crater cones and miles of +black cinders can be seen from Sunset Mountain, and lava and cinders of +this region look as fresh as if an eruption had occurred but yesterday. +</P> + +<P> +A peculiarity of the pine trees which grow in the cinders is that their +roots do not go down but spread out upon the surface. Some of the +roots are entirely bare while others are half buried in cinders. They +are from an inch to a foot thick and from ten to fifty feet long, +according to the size of the tree which they support. The cause of the +queer root formation is not apparent. +</P> + +<P> +The whole plateau country is scarce of water. The Grand Canon drains +the ground dry to an unusual depth. The nearest spring of water to the +Canon at Grand View is Cedar Spring, forty miles distant. Until +recently all the water used at the canon was either packed upon burros +from springs down in the canon or caught in ponds or reservoirs from +rains or melted snow. Since the completion of the railroad the water +is hauled in on cars constructed for that purpose. +</P> + +<P> +The watershed of the canon slopes away from the rim and instead of the +storm water running directly into the river it flows in the opposite +direction. Only after a long detour of many miles does it finally +reach the river by the Little Colorado or Cataract Creek. +</P> + +<P> +Now that the Grand Canon is made accessible by rail over a branch road +of the Santa Fe from Williams on the main line, it is reached in +comparative ease and comfort. But to stop at the Bright Angel Hotel +and look over the guard rail on the cliff down into the canon gives +merely a glimpse of what there is to see. A brief stay of one day is +better than not stopping at all, but to get even an inkling of its +greatness and grandeur days and weeks must be spent in making trips up +and down and into the canon. +</P> + +<P> +After having seen the canon at Bright Angel the next move should be to +go to Grand View fourteen miles up the canon. An all day's stage ride +from Flagstaff to the canon was tiresome, but the two hours' drive +through the pine woods from Bright Angel to Grand View is only pleasant +recreation. +</P> + +<P> +Seeing the Grand Canon for the first time does not necessarily produce +the startling and lachrymose effects that have been described by some +emotional writers, but the first sight never disappoints and always +leaves a deep and lasting impression. +</P> + +<P> +As immense as is the great chasm it is formed in such harmonious +proportions that it does not shock the senses. But as everything about +the canon is built on such a grand scale and the eyes not being +accustomed to such sights it is impossible to comprehend it--to measure +its dimensions correctly or note every detail of form and color at the +first glance. As the guide remarked, "God made it so d-- big that you +can't lie about it." +</P> + +<P> +To comprehend it at all requires time to re-educate the senses and make +them accustomed to the new order of things. But even a cursory view +will always remain in the memory as the event of a lifetime in the +experience of the average mortal. +</P> + +<P> +Distance in the canon cannot be measured by the usual standards. There +are sheer walls of rocks that are thousands of feet high and as many +more feet deep, but where the bottom seems to be is only the beginning +of other chasms which lie in the dark shadows and descend into yet +deeper depths below. The canon is not a single empty chasm, which is +the universal conception of a canon, but consists of a complex system +of sub and side canons that is bewildering. Out of its depths rise an +infinite number and variety of castellated cliffs and sculptured buttes +that represent every conceivable variety of architecture. They have +the appearance of a resurrected city of great size and beauty which +might have been built by an army of Titans then buried and forgotten. +</P> + +<P> +A trip into the canon down one of the trails makes its magnitude even +more impressive than a rim view. The distance across the chasm is also +much greater than what it seems to be, which is demonstrated by the +blue haze that fills the canon. The nearby buttes are perfectly +distinct, but as the distance increases across the great gorge the haze +gradually thickens until the opposite wall is almost obscured by the +mist. +</P> + +<P> +The myriads of horizontal lines which mark the different strata of +rocks have the appearance of a maze of telegraph wires strung through +the canon. +</P> + +<P> +A ride leisurely on horseback along the rim trail from Thurber's old +camp to Bissell's Point, seven miles up the canon, and back is easily +made in a day. It presents a panorama of magnificent views all along +the rim, but Bissell's is conceded to be the best view point on the +canon. From this point about thirty miles of river can be seen as it +winds in and out deep down among the rocks. The Colorado river is a +large stream, but as seen here a mile below and several miles out, it +dwindles into insignificance and appears no larger than a meadow brook. +The river looks placid in the distance, but is a raging, turbulent +torrent in which an ordinary boat cannot live and the roar of its wild +waters can be distinctly heard as of the rushing of a distant train of +cars. +</P> + +<P> +A second day spent in riding down the canon to Grand View Point and +back is equally delightful. Looking across a bend in the canon from +Grand View Point to Bissell's Point the distance seems to be scarcely +more than a stone's throw, yet it is fully half the distance of the +circuitous route by the rim trail. +</P> + +<P> +There are three trails leading into the canon and down to the river, +the Bright Angel, Grand View and Hance trails, which are at intervals +of eight and twelve miles apart. They are equally interesting and +comparatively safe if the trip is made on the back of a trained pony or +burro with a competent guide. +</P> + +<P> +The Hance trail is a loop and is twenty miles long. It is seven miles +down to the river, six miles up the stream and seven miles back to the +rim. It was built single handed by Captain John Hance, who has lived +many years in the canon. The trail is free to pedestrians, but yields +the captain a snug income from horse hire and his own services as guide +for tourists who go over the trail. +</P> + +<P> +Captain Hance is an entertaining raconteur and he spins many +interesting yarns for the amusement, if not the edification, of his +guests. The serious manner in which he relates his stories makes it +sometimes hard to tell whether he is in jest or earnest. His +acknowledged skill in mountaineering, and felicity in romancing has won +for him more than a local reputation and the distinguished title of +Grand Canon Guide and Prevaricator. +</P> + +<P> +He relates how "once upon a time" he pursued a band of mountain sheep +on the rim of the canon. Just as he was about to secure his quarry the +sheep suddenly turned a short corner and disappeared behind some rocks. +Before he realized his danger he found himself on the brink of a +yawning abyss and under such a momentum that he could not turn aside or +stop his horse. Together they went over the cliff in an awful leap. +He expected to meet instant death on the rocks below and braced himself +for the shock. As the fall was greater than usual, being over a mile +deep in a perpendicular line, it required several seconds for the +descending bodies to traverse the intervening space, which gave him a +few moments to think and plan some way of escape. At the critical +moment a happy inspiration seized and saved him. On the instant that +his horse struck the rock and was dashed to pieces, the captain sprang +nimbly from the saddle to his feet unharmed. To prove the truth of his +statement he never misses an opportunity to point out to the tourist +the spot where his horse fell, and shows the white bones of his defunct +steed bleaching in the sun. +</P> + +<P> +At Moran's Point there is a narrow cleft in the rocks which he calls +the Fat Woman's Misery. It received its name several years ago from a +circumstance that happened while he was conducting a party of tourists +along the rim trail. To obtain a better view the party essayed to +squeeze through the opening, in which attempt all succeeded except one +fat women who stuck fast. After vainly trying to extricate her from +her uncomfortable position he finally told her that there was but one +of two things to do, either remain where she was and starve to death or +take one chance in a thousand of being blown out alive by dynamite. +After thinking a moment she decided to try the "one chance in a +thousand" experiment. +</P> + +<P> +A charge of dynamite was procured and the fuse lighted. After the +explosion he returned to the spot and found the result satisfactory. +The blast had released the woman, who was alive and sitting upon a +rock. He approached her cheerfully and said: +</P> + +<P> +"Madam, how do you feel?" She looked up shocked, but evidently very +much relieved, and replied "Why, sir, I feel first rate, but the jolt +gave me a little toothache." +</P> + +<P> +He tells another story of how he once took a drink from the Colorado +river. The water is never very clear in the muddy stream but at that +particular time it was unusually murky. He had nothing with which to +dip the water and lay down on the bank to take a drink. Being very +thirsty he paid no attention to the quality of the water, but only knew +that it tasted wet. The water, however, grew thicker as he drank until +it became balled up in his mouth, and stuck fast in his throat and +threatened to choke him. He tried to bite it off but failed because +his teeth were poor. At last becoming desperate, he pulled his hunting +knife from his belt and cut himself loose from his drink. +</P> + +<P> +Different theories have been advanced to account for the origin of the +Grand Canon, but it is a question whether it is altogether due to any +one cause. Scientists say that it is the work of water erosion, but to +the layman it seems impossible. If an ocean of water should flow over +rocks during eons of ages it does not seem possible that it could cut +such a channel. +</P> + +<P> +Water sometimes does queer things, but it has never been known to +reverse nature. By a fundamental law of hydrostatics water always +seeks its level and flows in the direction of least resistance. If +water ever made the Grand Canon it had to climb a hill and cut its way +through the backbone of the Buckskin mountains, which are not a range +of peaks but a broad plateau of solid rock. Into this rock the canon +is sunk more than a mile deep, from six to eighteen miles wide and over +two hundred miles long. +</P> + +<P> +In order to make the theory of water erosion tenable it is assumed that +the Colorado river started in its incipiency like any other river. +After a time the river bed began to rise and was gradually pushed up +more and more by some unknown subterranean force as the water cut +deeper and deeper into the rock until the Grand Canon was formed. +</P> + +<P> +Captain Hance has a theory that the canon originated in an underground +stream which tunneled until it cut its way through to the surface. As +improbable as is this theory it is as plausible as the erosion theory, +but both theories appear to be equally absurd. +</P> + +<P> +At some remote period of time the entire southwest was rent and torn by +an awful cataclysm which caused numerous fissures and seams to appear +all over the country. The force that did the work had its origin in +the earth and acted by producing lateral displacement rather than +direct upheaval. Whenever that event occurred the fracture which marks +the course of the Grand Canon was made and, breaking through the +enclosing wall of the Great Basin, set free the waters of an inland +sea. What the seismic force began the flood of liberated water helped +to finish, and there was born the greatest natural wonder of the known +world. +</P> + +<P> +There are canons all over Arizona and the southwest that resemble the +Grand Canon, except that they were made on a smaller scale. Many of +them are perfectly dry and apparently never contained any running +water. They are all so much alike that they were evidently made at the +same time and by the same cause. Walnut Canon and Canon Diablo are +familiar examples of canon formation. +</P> + +<P> +The rocks in the canons do not stand on end, but lie in horizontal +strata and show but little dip anywhere. Indeed, the rocks lie so +plumb in many places that they resemble the most perfect masonry. +</P> + +<P> +The rim rock of the Mogollon Mesa is of the same character as the walls +of the Grand Canon and is an important part of the canon system. It is +almost a perpendicular cliff from one to three thousand feet high which +extends from east to west across central Arizona and divides the great +northern plateau from the southern valleys. It is one side of an +immense vault or canon wall whose mate has been lost or dropped +completely out of sight. +</P> + +<P> +In many of the canons where water flows continuously, effects are +produced that are exactly the opposite of those ascribed to water +erosion. Instead of the running water cutting deeper into the earth it +has partly filled the canon with alluvium, thereby demonstrating +nature's universal leveling process. Even the floods of water which +pour through them during every rainy season with an almost irresistible +force carry in more soil than they wash out and every freshet only adds +new soil to the old deposits. If these canons were all originally made +by water erosion as is claimed, why does not the water continue to act +in the same manner now but, instead, completely reverses itself as +above stated? There can be but one of two conclusions, either that +nature has changed or that scientists are mistaken. +</P> + +<P> +The Aravaipa in southern Arizona is an interesting canon and is typical +of its kind. Its upper half is shallow and bounded by low rolling +foothills, but in the middle it suddenly deepens and narrows into a box +canon, which has high perpendicular walls of solid rock like the Grand +Canon. It is a long, narrow valley sunk deep into the earth and has +great fertility and much wild beauty. It measures from a few feet to a +mile in width and drains a large scope of rough country. The surface +water which filters through from above reappears in numerous springs of +clear cold water in the bottom of the canon. In the moist earth and +under the shade of forest trees grow a variety of rare flowers, ferns +and mosses. +</P> + +<P> +Where the canon begins to box a large spring of pure cold water issues +from the sand in the bottom of a wash which is the source of the +Aravaipa creek. It flows through many miles of rich alluvial land and +empties into the San Predo river. The valley was settled many years +ago by men who were attracted to the spot by its rare beauty, fertility +of soil and an abundance of wood and water. +</P> + +<P> +The land is moist and covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, which +will average over one hundred feet high. The trees are as large and +the foliage as dense as in any eastern forest. Being sunk deep in the +earth the narrow valley at the bottom of the canon can only be seen +from above. When viewed from some favorable point it has the +appearance of a long green ribbon stretched loosely over a brown +landscape. The sight of it is a pleasant surprise to the weary +wayfarer who, after traveling over many miles of dreary desert road, +finds himself suddenly ushered into such pleasant scenes. +</P> + +<P> +The canons of Arizona are unrivaled for grandeur, sublimity and beauty, +and will attract an ever increasing number of admirers. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Results of a Biological Survey of the San Francisco Mountain Region +and Painted Desert of the Little Colorado, Arizona. 1890. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap11"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER XI +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN +</H3> + +<P> +Ten miles southeast of Canon Diablo station on the Santa Fe Pacific +Railroad, stands the Meteorite Mountain of Arizona, on a wide, open +plain of the Colorado Plateau. It is two hundred feet high and, as +seen at a distance, has the appearance of a low, flat mountain. Its +top forms the rim of an immense, round, bowl-shaped hole in the ground +that has almost perpendicular sides, is one mile wide and over six +hundred feet deep. The hole, originally, was evidently very much +deeper than it is at the present time, but it has gradually become +filled with debris to its present depth. The bottom of the hole has a +floor of about forty acres of level ground which merges into a talus. +</P> + +<P> +This formation is sometimes called the Crater, because of its shape, +but there is no evidence of volcanic action. Locally it is known as +Coon Butte, which is a misnomer; but Meteorite Mountain is a name with +a meaning. +</P> + +<P> +It is not known positively just how or when the mountain was formed, +but the weight of evidence seems to favor the meteorite theory, which +is that at some remote period of time a monster meteorite fell from the +sky and buried itself in the earth. +</P> + +<P> +Mr. F. W. Volz, who has lived in the country twenty years and is an +intelligent observer of natural phenomena, has made a careful study of +the mountain, and it is his opinion that such an event actually +occurred and that a falling star made the mountain. When the +descending meteorite, with its great weight and terrific momentum, hit +the earth something had to happen. It buried itself deep beneath the +surface and caused the earth to heave up on all sides. The effect +produced is aptly illustrated, on a small scale, by throwing a rock +into thick mud. +</P> + +<P> +The impact of the meteorite upon the earth not only caused an upheaval +of the surface, but it also crushed and displaced the rocks beneath. +As the stellar body penetrated deeper into the earth its force became +more concentrated and either compressed the rocks into a denser mass or +ground them to powder. +</P> + +<P> +The plain on which the mountain stands is covered by a layer of red +sandstone of variable thickness, as it is much worn in places by +weather erosion. Below the top covering of red sandstone lie three +hundred feet of limestone and beneath the limestone five hundred feet +more of white sandstone. This arrangement of the rocks is plainly seen +in the walls of Canon Diablo. +</P> + +<P> +The displaced strata of rocks in the hole are tilted and stand outwards +and great boulders of red sandstone and limestone lie scattered all +about. If the hole had been made by an explosion from below large +pieces of rock from each one of the different rock strata would have +been thrown out; but, while as just stated, there are plenty of huge +blocks of red sandstone and limestone, there are no large pieces of +white sandstone. After the superficial layers of rock had been broken +up and expelled en masse, the deeper rock of white sandstone, being +more confined, could not reach the surface in the shape of boulders, +but had first to be broken up and ground to powder before it could +escape. Then the white sandstones in the form of fine sand was blown +skywards by the collision and afterwards settled down upon the +mountain. The mountain is covered with this white sand, which could +only have come out of the big hole as there is no other white sand or +sandstone found anywhere else upon the entire plain. +</P> + +<P> +In the vicinity of the mountain about ten tons of meteorites have been +found, varying in size from the fraction of an ounce to one thousand +pounds or more. Most of the meteorites were found by Mr. Volz, who +searched diligently every foot of ground for miles around. The smaller +pieces were picked up on or near the rim, and they increased in size in +proportion as they were distant from the mountain until, on a circle +eight miles out, the largest piece was found. Meteorites were found +upon all sides of the mountain but they seemed to be thickest on the +east side. +</P> + +<P> +The writer first visited the mountain in the summer of 1901 and it was +the greatest surprise of his six weeks' trip sightseeing in northern +Arizona where are found many natural wonders. He was fortunate enough +to find a three pound meteorite within five minutes after arriving on +the rim, which Mr. Volz said was the first specimen found by anyone in +over four years. +</P> + +<P> +Professor G. K. Gilbert of the United States Geological Survey visited +the mountain several years ago to investigate the phenomenon and, if +possible, to determine its origin by scientific test. He gave the +results of his researches in a very able and comprehensive address,[1] +delivered before the Geological Society of Washington, D.C. The +existing conditions did not seem to fit his theories, and he concluded +his work without arriving at any definite conclusion. +</P> + +<P> +After disposing of several hypotheses as being incompetent to prove the +origin of the mountain he decided to try the magnetic test. He assumed +that if such a meteorite was buried there the large mass of metallic +iron must indicate its presence by magnetic attraction. By means of +the latest scientific apparatus he conducted an elaborate magnetic +experiment which gave only negative results. +</P> + +<P> +He discussed at length the various hypotheses which might explain the +origin of the crater and concluded his notable address as follows: +</P> + +<P> +"Still another contribution to the subject, while it does not increase +the number of hypotheses, is nevertheless important in that it tends to +diminish the weight of the magnetic evidence and thus to reopen the +question which Mr. Baker and I supposed we had settled. Our +fellow-member, Mr. Edwin E. Howell, through whose hands much of the +meteoric iron had passed, points out that each of the iron masses, +great and small, is in itself a complete individual. They have none of +the characters that would be found if they had been broken one from +another, and yet, as they are all of one type and all reached the earth +within a small district, it must be supposed that they were originally +connected in some way. +</P> + +<P> +"Reasoning by analogy from the characters of other meteoric bodies, he +infers that the irons were all included in a large mass of some +different material, either crystalline rock, such as constitutes the +class of meteorites called 'stony,' or else a compound of iron and +sulphur, similar to certain nodules discovered inside the iron masses +when sawn in two. Neither of these materials is so enduring as iron, +and the fact that they are not now found on the plain does not prove +their original absence. Moreover, the plain is strewn in the vicinity +of the crater with bits of limonite, a mineral frequently produced by +the action of air and water on iron sulphides, and this material is +much more abundant than the iron. If it be true that the iron masses +were thus imbedded, like plums in an astral pudding, the hypothetic +buried star might have great size and yet only small power to attract +the magnetic needle. Mr. Howell also proposes a qualification of the +test by volumes, suggesting that some of the rocks beneath the buried +star might have been condensed by the shock so as to occupy less space. +</P> + +<P> +"These considerations are eminently pertinent to the study of the +crater and will find appropriate place in any comprehensive discussion +of its origin; but the fact which is peculiarly worthy of note at the +present time is their ability to unsettle a conclusion that was +beginning to feel itself secure. This illustrates the tentative nature +not only of the hypotheses of science, but of what science calls its +results. +</P> + +<P> +"The method of hypotheses, and that method is the method of science, +founds its explanations of nature wholly on observed facts, and its +results are ever subject to the limitations imposed by imperfect +observation. However grand, however widely accepted, however useful +its conclusions, none is so sure that it cannot be called into question +by a newly discovered fact. In the domain of the world's knowledge +there is no infallibility." +</P> + +<P> +After Prof. Gilbert had finished his experiments, Mr. Volz tried some +of his own along the same line. He found upon trial that the +meteorites in his possession were non-magnetic, or, practically so. If +these, being pieces of the larger meteorite which was buried in the +hole, were non-magnetic, all of it must be non-magnetic, which would +account for the failure of the needle to act or manifest any magnetic +attraction in the greater test. +</P> + +<P> +Mr. Volz also made another interesting discovery in this same +connection. All over the meteorite zone are scattered about small +pieces of iron which he calls "iron shale." It is analogous to the +true meteorite, but is "burnt" or "dead." He regards these bits of +iron as dead sparks from a celestial forge, which fell from the +meteorite as it blazed through the heavens. +</P> + +<P> +In experimenting with the stuff he found that it was not only highly +magnetic, but also possessed polarity in a marked degree; and was +entirely different from the true meteorite. Here was a curiosity, +indeed; a small, insignificant and unattractive stone possessed of +strong magnetic polarity, a property of electricity that is as +mysterious and incomprehensible as is electricity itself. +</P> + +<P> +Another peculiarity of Canon Diablo meteorite is that it contains +diamonds. When the meteorite was first discovered by a Mexican sheep +herder he supposed that he had found a large piece of silver, because +of its great weight and luster, but he was soon informed of his +mistake. Not long afterwards a white prospector who heard of the +discovery undertook to use it to his own advantage, by claiming that he +had found a mine of pure iron, which he offered for sale. In an +attempt to dispose of the property samples of the ore were sent east +for investigation. Some of the stone fell into the hands of Dr. Foote, +who pronounced it to be meteorite and of celestial origin. +</P> + +<P> +Sir William Crookes in discussing the theory of the meteoric origin of +diamonds[2] says "the most striking confirmation of the meteoric theory +comes from Arizona. Here, on a broad open plain, over an area about +five miles in diameter, were scattered from one to two thousand masses +of metallic iron, the fragments varying in weight from half a ton to a +fraction of an ounce. There is little doubt that these masses formed +part of a meteorite shower, although no record exists as to when the +fall took place. Curiously enough, near the center, where most of the +meteoritics have been found, is a crater with raised edges three +quarters of a mile in diameter and about six hundred feet deep, bearing +exactly the appearance which would be produced had a mighty mass of +iron or falling star struck the ground, scattering in all directions, +and buried itself deep under the surface. Altogether ten tons of this +iron have been collected, and specimens of Canyon Diablo Meteorite are +in most collectors' cabinets. +</P> + +<P> +"An ardent mineralogist, the late Dr. Foote, in cutting a section of +this meteorite, found the tools were injured by something vastly harder +than metallic iron, and an emery wheel used in grinding the iron had +been ruined. He examined the specimen chemically, and soon after +announced to the scientific world that the Canyon Diablo Meteorite +contained black and transparent diamonds. This startling discovery was +afterwards verified by Professors Friedel and Moissan, who found that +the Canyon Diablo Meteorite contained the three varieties of +carbon--diamond (transparent and black), graphite and amorphous carbon. +Since this revelation the search for diamonds in meteorites has +occupied the attention of chemists all over the world. +</P> + +<P> +"Here, then, we have absolute proof of the truth of the meteoric +theory. Under atmospheric influences the iron would rapidly oxidize +and rust away, coloring the adjacent soil with red oxide of iron. The +meteoric diamonds would be unaffected and left on the surface to be +found by explorers when oxidation had removed the last proof of their +celestial origin. That there are still lumps of iron left in Arizona +is merely due to the extreme dryness of the climate and the +comparatively short time that the iron has been on our planet. We are +here witnesses to the course of an event which may have happened in +geologic times anywhere on the earth's surface." +</P> + +<P> +About a year ago several mineral claims were located in the crater by a +company of scientific and moneyed men. The required assessment work +was done and a patent for the land obtained from the government. The +object of the enterprise is for a double purpose, if possible to solve +the mystery of the mountain, and if successful in finding the +"hypothetic buried star" to excavate and appropriate it for its +valuable iron. +</P> + +<P> +A shaft has been sunk one hundred and ninety-five feet deep, where a +strong flow of water was encountered in a bed of white sand which +temporarily stopped the work. A gasoline engine and drill were +procured and put in operation and the drill was driven down forty feet +further when it stuck fast in white quicksand. It is the intention of +the company to continue the work and carry it on to a successful finish. +</P> + +<P> +Nothing of value was found in the hole dug, but some of the workmen in +their leisure hours found on the surface two large meteorites weighing +one hundred and one hundred and fifty pounds respectively, besides a +number of smaller fragments. +</P> + +<P> +The Meteorite Mountain is in a class by itself and is, in a way, as +great a curiosity as is the Grand Canon. It is little known and has +not received the attention that it deserves. It is, indeed, marvelous +and only needs to be seen to be appreciated. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] The Origin of Hypotheses. 1895. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] Diamonds. Wm. Crookes, F.R.S. Smithsonian Report. 1897. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap12"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER XII +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE CLIFF DWELLERS +</H3> + +<P> +In the canons of the Colorado river and its tributaries are found the +ruins of an ancient race of cliff dwellers. These ruins are numerous +and are scattered over a wide scope of country, which includes Arizona +and portions of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico. Many of them are yet in +a good state of preservation, but all show the marks of age and decay. +They are not less than four hundred years old and are, in all +probability, much older. Their preservation is largely due to their +sheltered position among the rocks and an exceptionally dry climate. +</P> + +<P> +The houses are invariably built upon high cliffs on shelving rocks in +places that are almost inaccessible. In some instances they can only +be reached by steps cut into the solid rock, which are so old and worn +that they are almost obliterated. Their walls so nearly resemble the +stratified rocks upon which they stand, that they are not easily +distinguished from their surroundings. +</P> + +<P> +The cliffs are often sloping, sometimes overhanging, but more +frequently perpendicular. The weather erosion of many centuries has +caused the softer strata of exposed rocks in the cliffs to disintegrate +and fall away, which left numberless caverns wherein this ancient and +mysterious people chose to build their eyrie homes to live with the +eagles. The houses are built of all shapes and sizes and, apparently, +were planned to fit the irregular and limited space of their +environment. Circular watch towers look down from commanding heights +which, from their shape and position, were evidently intended to serve +the double purpose of observation and defense. +</P> + +<P> +In the search for evidence of their antiquity it is believed that data +has been found which denotes great age. In the construction of some of +their houses, notably those in the Mancos Canon, is displayed a +technical knowledge of architecture and a mathematical accuracy which +savages do not possess; and the fine masonry of dressed stone and +superior cement seem to prove that Indians were not the builders. On +the contrary, to quote a recent writer, "The evidence goes to show that +the work was done by skilled workmen who were white masons and who +built for white people in a prehistoric age." In this connection it is +singular, if not significant, that the natives when first discovered +believed in a bearded white man whom they deified as the Fair God of +whose existence they had obtained knowledge from some source and in +whose honor they kept their sacred altar fires burning unquenched. +</P> + +<P> +The relics that have been found in the ruins are principally implements +of the stone age, but are of sufficient variety to indicate a +succession of races that were both primitive and cultured and as widely +separated in time as in knowledge. +</P> + +<P> +The cliff dwellings were not only the abodes of their original +builders, but were occupied and deserted successively by the chipped +stone implement maker, the polisher of hard stone, the basket maker and +the weaver. +</P> + +<P> +Among the relics that have been found in the ruins are some very fine +specimens of pottery which are as symmetrical and well finished as if +they had been turned on a potter's wheel, and covered with an opaque +enamel of stanniferous glaze composed of lead and tin that originated +with the Phoenicians, and is as old as history. Can it be possible +that the cliff dwellers are a lost fragment of Egyptian civilization? +</P> + +<P> +The cliff ruins in Arizona are not only found in the canons of the +Colorado river, but also in many other places. The finest of them are +Montezuma's Castle on Beaver creek, and the Casa Blanca in Canon de +Chelly. Numerous other ruins are found on the Rio Verde, Gila river, +Walnut Canon and elsewhere. +</P> + +<P> +The largest and finest group of cliff dwellings are those on the Mesa +Verde in Colorado. They are fully described in the great work[1] of +Nordenskiold, who spent much time among them. The different houses are +named after some peculiarity of appearance or construction, like the +Cliff Palace, which contains more than one hundred rooms, Long House, +Balcony House, Spruce Tree House, etc. +</P> + +<P> +He obtained a large quantity of relics, which are also fully described, +consisting of stone implements, pottery, cotton and feather cloth, +osier and palmillo mats, yucca sandals, weaving sticks, bone awls, corn +and beans. +</P> + +<P> +Many well-preserved mummies were found buried in graves that were +carefully closed and sealed. The bodies were wrapped in a fine cotton +cloth of drawn work, which was covered by a coarser cloth resembling +burlap, and all inclosed in a wrapping of palmillo matting tied with a +cord made of the fiber of cedar bark. The hair is fine and of a brown +color, and not coarse and black like the hair of the wild Indians. +Mummies have been exhumed that have red or light colored hair such as +usually goes with a fair skin. This fact has led some to believe that +the cliff dwellers belonged to the white race, but not necessarily so, +as this quality of hair also belongs to albinos, who doubtless lived +among the cliff dwellers as they do among the Moquis and Zunis at the +present day, and explains the peculiarity of hair just mentioned. +</P> + +<P> +These remains may be very modern, as some choose to believe, but, in +all probability, they are more ancient than modern. Mummies encased in +wood and cloth have been taken from the tombs of Egypt in an almost +perfect state of preservation which cannot be less than two thousand +years old, and are, perhaps, more than double that age. As there is no +positive knowledge as to when the cliff dwellers flourished, one man's +guess on the subject is as good as another's. +</P> + +<P> +An important discovery was recently made near Mancos, Colorado, where a +party of explorers found in some old cliff dwellings graves beneath +graves that were entirely different from anything yet discovered. They +were egg-shaped, built of stone and plastered smoothly with clay. They +contained mummies, cloth, sandals, beads and various other trinkets. +There was no pottery, but many well-made baskets, and their owners have +been called the basket makers. There was also a difference in the +skulls found. The cliff dwellers' skull is short and flattened behind, +while the skulls that were found in these old graves were long, narrow +and round on the back.[2] +</P> + +<P> +Rev. H. M. Baum, who has traveled all over the southwest and visited +every large ruin in the country, considers that Canon de Chelly and its +branch, del Muerto, is the most interesting prehistoric locality in the +United States. The Navajos, who now live in the canon, have a +tradition that the people who occupied the old cliff houses were all +destroyed in one day by a wind of fire.[3] The occurrence, evidently, +was similar to what happened recently on the island of Martinique, when +all the inhabitants of the village of St. Pierre perished in an hour by +the eruption of Mont Pelee. +</P> + +<P> +Contemporaneous with the cliff dwellers there seems to have lived a +race of people in the adjoining valleys who built cities and tilled the +soil. Judged by their works they must have been an industrious, +intelligent and numerous people. All over the ground are strewn broken +pieces of pottery that are painted in bright colors and artistic +designs which, after ages of exposure to the weather, look as fresh as +if newly made, The relics that have been taken from the ruins are +similar to those found in the cliff houses, and consist mostly of stone +implements and pottery. +</P> + +<P> +In the Gila valley, near the town of Florence, stands the now famous +Casa Grande ruin, which is the best preserved of all these ancient +cities. It was a ruin when the Spaniards first discovered it, and is a +type of the ancient communal house. Its thick walls are composed of a +concrete adobe that is as hard as rock, and its base lines conform to +the cardinal points of, the compass. It is an interesting relic of a +past age and an extinct race and, if it cannot yield up its secrets to +science, it at least appeals to the spirit of romance and mystery. +</P> + +<P> +Irrigating ditches which were fed from reservoirs supplied their fields +and houses with water. Portions of these old canals are yet in +existence and furnish proof of the diligence and skill of their +builders. The ditches were located on levels that could not be +improved upon for utilizing the land and water to the best advantage. +Modern engineers have not been able to better them and in many places +the old levels are used in new ditches at the present time. +</P> + +<P> +Whatever may have been the fate of this ancient people their +destruction must be sought in natural causes rather than by human +warfare. An adverse fate probably cut off their water supply and laid +waste their productive fields. With their crops a failure and all +supplies gone what else could the people do but either starve or move, +but as to the nature of the exodus history is silent. +</P> + +<P> +Just how ancient these works are might be difficult to prove, but they +are certainly not modern. The evidence denotes that they have existed +a long time. Where the water in a canal flowed over solid rock the +rock has been much worn. Portions of the old ditches are filled with +lava and houses lie buried in the vitreous flood. It is certain that +the country was inhabited prior to the last lava flow whether that +event occurred hundreds or thousands of years ago. +</P> + +<P> +It is claimed that the Pueblo Indians and cliff dwellers are identical +and that the latter were driven from their peaceful valley homes by a +hostile foe to find temporary shelter among the rocks, but such a +conclusion seems to be erroneous in view of certain facts. +</P> + +<P> +The cliff dwellings were not temporary camps, as such a migration would +imply, but places of permanent abode. The houses are too numerous and +well constructed to be accounted for on any other hypothesis. A people +fleeing periodically to the cliffs to escape from an enemy could not +have built such houses. Indeed, they are simply marvelous when +considered as to location and construction. The time that must +necessarily have been consumed in doing the work and the amount of +danger and labor involved--labor in preparing and getting the material +into place and danger in scaling the dizzy heights over an almost +impassible trail, it seems the boldest assumption to assert that the +work was done by a fleeing and demoralized mob. +</P> + +<P> +Again, it would be a physical impossibility for a people who were only +accustomed to agricultural pursuits to suddenly and completely change +their habits of life such as living among the rocks would necessitate. +Only by native instinct and daily practice from childhood would it be +possible for any people to follow the narrow and difficult paths which +were habitually traveled by the cliff dwellers. It requires a clear +head and steady nerves to perform the daring feat in safety--to the +truth of which statement modern explorers can testify who have made the +attempt in recent years at the peril of life and limb while engaged in +searching for archaeological treasures. +</P> + +<P> +Judged by the everyday life that is familiar to us it seems incredible +that houses should ever have been built or homes established in such +hazardous places, or that any people should have ever lived there. But +that they did is an established fact as there stand the houses which +were built and occupied by human beings in the midst of surroundings +that might appall the stoutest heart. Children played and men and +women wrought on the brink of frightful precipices in a space so +limited and dangerous that a single misstep made it fatal. +</P> + +<P> +It is almost impossible to conceive of any condition in life, or +combination of circumstances in the affairs of men, that should drive +any people to the rash act of living in the houses of the cliff +dwellers. Men will sometimes do from choice what they cannot be made +to do by compulsion. It is easier to believe that the cliff dwellers, +being free people, chose of their own accord the site of their +habitation rather than that from any cause they were compelled to make +the choice. Their preference was to live upon the cliffs, as they were +fitted by nature for such an environment. +</P> + +<P> +For no other reason, apparently, do the Moquis live upon their rocky +and barren mesas away from everything which the civilized white man +deems desirable, yet, in seeming contentment. The Supais, likewise, +choose to live alone at the bottom of Cataract Canon where they are +completely shut in by high cliffs. Their only road out is by a narrow +and dangerous trail up the side of the canon, which is little traveled +as they seldom leave home and are rarely visited. +</P> + +<P> +To affirm that the cliff dwellers were driven from their strongholds +and dispersed by force is pure fiction, nor is there any evidence to +support such a theory. That they had enemies no one doubts, but, being +in possession of an impregnable position where one man could +successfully withstand a thousand, to surrender would have been base +cowardice, and weakness was not a characteristic of the cliff dwellers. +</P> + +<P> +The question of their subsistence is likewise a puzzle. They evidently +cultivated the soil where it was practicable to do so as fragments of +farm products have been found in their dwellings, but in the vicinity +of some of the houses there is no tillable land and the inhabitants +must have depended upon other means for support. The wild game which +was, doubtless, abundant furnished them with meat and edible seeds, +fruits and roots from native plants like the pinon pine and mesquite +which together with the saguaro and mescal, supplied them with a +variety of food sufficient for their subsistence as they do, in a +measure, the wild Indian tribes of that region at the present day. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde, by F. Nordenskiold, +Stockholm. 1893. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] An Elder Brother of the Cliff Dwellers, by T. M. Prudden, M.D. +Harper's Magazine, June, 1897. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] Pueblo and Cliff Dwellers of the Southwest. Records of the Past, +December, 1902. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap13"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER XIII +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE MOQUI INDIANS +</H3> + +<P> +The Indians of Arizona are, perhaps, the most interesting of any of the +American aborigines. They are as unique and picturesque as is the land +which they inhabit; and the dead are no less so than the living. +</P> + +<P> +The Pueblo Indians, with which the Moquis are classed, number +altogether about ten thousand and are scattered in twenty-six villages +over Arizona and New Mexico. They resemble each other in many +respects, but do not all speak the same language. They represent +several wholly disconnected stems and are classified linguistically by +Brinton as belonging to the Uto-Aztecan, Kera, Tehua and Zuni stocks. +He believes that the Pueblo civilization is not due to any one +unusually gifted lineage, but is altogether a local product, developed +in independent tribes by their peculiar environment, which is favorable +to agriculture and sedentary pursuits.[1] +</P> + +<P> +The houses are constructed of stone and adobe, are several stories high +and contain many apartments. None of the existing pueblos are as large +as some that are in ruins which, judging by the quantity of debris, +must have been huge affairs. Since the advent of the Spaniard the +style of building has changed somewhat to conform to modern ideas, so +that now some families live in separate one-story houses having doors +and windows, instead, as formerly, only in large communal houses that +were built and conducted on the communal plan. +</P> + +<P> +Their manners and customs are peculiar to themselves and make an +interesting study. Their civilization is entirely original, though +modified to some extent by centuries of contact with the whites. They +understand the Spanish language, but have not forgotten their mother +tongue. They hold tenaciously to their old customs and have not +changed materially during the past four hundred years. +</P> + +<P> +During that time the Catholic missionaries endeavored to convert them +to Christianity, but with only partial success. While they appeared to +acquiesce, by giving formal obedience to the requirements of the new +religion, they yet held sacred their old beliefs and in the privacy of +the estufa practiced in secret the rites and ceremonies of their +ancient faith. +</P> + +<P> +The Spaniards undertook to conquer a free and independent people by +teaching them dependence and submission, but signally failed. After a +struggle of two hundred and eighty years Spanish civilization withdrew +and left the Pueblo civilization victorious. +</P> + +<P> +Under successive Spanish, Mexican and American rule the Pueblo has +preserved itself intact which fact stamps the Pueblo people as being +eminently valiant, self-reliant and persevering. They are peaceable, +industrious and hospitable and are said to be the best governed people +in the world. As nearly as can be ascertained they are free from every +gross vice and crime and Mr. C. F. Lummis, who knows them well, +believes them to be a crimeless people. +</P> + +<P> +The Moquis of Arizona are the most primitive of the Pueblo Indians and +are worthy representatives of their race. They are of the Aztecan +branch of the Shoshonean family and probably the lineal descendents of +the cliff dwellers. Their home is on the Painted Desert in +northeastern Arizona where they have lived for many centuries. It is a +barren and desolate spot and has been likened to Hades with its fires +extinguished. Nevertheless it is an exceedingly interesting region and +furnishes many attractions. The landscape is highly picturesque and +the phantasmagoric effects of the rarified atmosphere are bewitching. +</P> + +<P> +In the early Spanish days Moqui land was designated as the Province of +Tusayan and was shrouded in mystery. The seven Moqui towns were at one +time regarded as the seven Cities of Cibola, but later it was decided +that Zuni and not Moqui was the true Cibola. +</P> + +<P> +When Coronado, at the head of his intrepid army, marched through the +land in the year 1540, he procured native guides to aid him in +exploring the country, hoping to find fabulous wealth which failed to +materialize. He heard of a race of giants whom he wished to meet, but +instead of finding them discovered a river with banks so high that they +"seemed to be raised three or four leagues into the air." What he saw +was the Colorado River with its gigantic canon walls and wealth of +architectural grandeur and beauty. The bewildering sight naturally +astonished him as it does every beholder. Think of a fissure in the +earth over a mile deep! But the Grand Canon of Arizona is more that a +simple fissure in the earth. It is composed of many canons which form +a seemingly endless labyrinth of winding aisles and majestic +avenues--fit promenades for the Gods. +</P> + +<P> +The land of the Moquinos is full of surprises and, although they are +not all as startling as the Grand Canon, they are sufficiently striking +to make Arizona a wonderland that is second to none on the continent. +</P> + +<P> +The Moquis live in seven towns or pueblos which are built upon three +rocky mesas that are many miles apart. The mesas are about seven +thousand feet above sea level and from six to eight hundred feet higher +than the surrounding plain. Upon the first or eastern mesa are located +the three towns of Te-wa, Si-chom-ovi and Wal-pi. Tewa is the newest +of the three towns and was built by the Tehuan allies who came as +refugees from the Rio Grande after the great rebellion of 1680. They +were granted permission to build on the spot by agreeing to defend the +Gap, where the trail leaves the mesa, against all intruders. +</P> + +<P> +Upon the second or middle mesa are the towns of Mi-shong-novi, +Shi-pauli-ovi and Shong-o-pavi; and on the third mesa is O-rai-bi, +which is the largest of the Moqui villages, and equal to the other six +in size and population. The entire population of the seven Moqui towns +numbers about two thousand souls. +</P> + +<P> +In 1583 Espejo estimated that the Moquis numbered fifty thousand, +which, doubtless, was an over estimate, as he has been accused of +exaggeration. However, since their discovery their numbers have +greatly diminished and steadily continue to decrease, as if it were +also to be their fate to become extinct like the ancient cliff dwellers. +</P> + +<P> +The Moqui Pueblos are well protected by natural barriers upon all sides +except towards the south. Perched upon their high mesas the people +have been safe from every attack of an enemy, but their fields and +flocks in the valley below were defenseless. The top of the several +mesas can only be reached by ascending steep and difficult trails which +are hard to climb but easy to defend. The paths on the mesas have been +cut deep into the hard rock, which were worn by the soft tread of +moccasined feet during centuries of travel, numbering, perhaps, several +times the four hundred years that are known to history. +</P> + +<P> +The houses are built of stone and mortar, and rise in terraces from one +to five stories high, back from a street or court to a sheer wall. +Some of the remodeled and newly built houses have modern doors and +windows. The upper stories are reached from the outside by ladders and +stone stairways built into the walls. The rooms are smoothly plastered +and whitewashed and the houses are kept tidy and clean, but the streets +are dirty and unsanitary. +</P> + +<P> +In these sky cities the Moquis live a retired life that is well suited +to their quiet dispositions, love of home life and tireless industry. +The men are kind, the women virtuous and the children obedient. +Indeed, the children are unusually well behaved. They seldom quarrel +or cry, and a spoiled child cannot be found among them. The Moquis +love peace, and never fight among themselves. If a dispute occurs it +is submitted to a peace council of old men, whose decision is final and +obeyed without a murmur. +</P> + +<P> +They are shy and suspicious of strangers, but if addressed by the magic +word lolomi, their reserve is instantly gone. It is the open sesame to +their hearts and homes, and after that the house contains nothing too +good to bestow upon the welcome guest. They are true children of +nature, and have not yet become corrupted by the vices of white +civilization. The worst thing they do is that the men smoke tobacco. +</P> + +<P> +Their industries are few, but afford sufficient income to provide for +their modest needs. They are primarily tillers of the soil, and as +agriculturists succeed under circumstances that would wholly baffle and +discourage an eastern farmer. Several years ago a man was sent out +from Washington to teach the Moquis agriculture, but before a year had +passed the teacher had to buy corn from the Indians. They make baskets +and pottery, weave cloth and dress skins for their own use and to +barter in trade with their neighbors. They like silver and have +skilled workmen who make the white metal into beads and buttons and +various trinkets for personal adornment. They care nothing for gold, +and silver is their only money. Chalchihuitl is their favorite gem and +to own a turquoise stone is regarded as an omen of good fortune to the +happy possessor. +</P> + +<P> +Just how the Spaniards got the notion that the Moquis loved gold and +possessed vast stores of that precious metal is not apparent unless it +be, as Bandelier suggests, that it originated in the myth of the El +Dorado, or Gilded Man.[2] The story started at Lake Guatanita in +Bogota, and traveled north to Quivera, but the wealth that the +Spaniards sought they never found. Their journey led them over deserts +that gave them but little food and only a meager supply of water, and +ended in disaster. +</P> + +<P> +The mesas are all rock and utterly barren, and their supplies are all +brought from a distance over difficult trails. The water is carried in +ollas by the women from springs at the foot of the mesa; wood is packed +on burros from distant forests; and corn, melons and peaches are +brought home by the men when they return from their work in the fields. +A less active and industrious people, under similar circumstances, +would soon starve to death, but the Moquis are self-supporting and have +never asked nor received any help from Uncle Sam. +</P> + +<P> +In the early morning the public crier proclaims in stentorian tones +from the housetop the program for the day, which sends everyone to his +daily task. They are inured to labor and do not count work as a +hardship. It is only by incessant toil that they succeed at all in +earning a living with the scanty resources at their command, and the +only surprise is that they succeed so well. There is scarcely an hour +during the day or night that men and women are not either coming or +going on some errand to provision the home. +</P> + +<P> +The men travel many miles every day going to and from their work in the +fields. If a man owns a burro he sometimes rides, but usually prefers +to walk. What the burro does not pack, the man carries on his back. +He often sings at his work, just as the white man does in any farming +community, and his song sounds good. +</P> + +<P> +The burro is the common carrier and, because of his sterling qualities, +is a prime favorite in all of the pueblos. If he has any faults they +are all condoned except one, that of theft. If he is caught eating in +a corn field he is punished as a thief by having one of his ears cut +off; and if the offense is repeated he loses his other ear in the same +manner. +</P> + +<P> +The area of tillable land is limited and is found only in small +patches, which cause the farms to be widely scattered. The soil is +mostly sand which the wind drifts into dunes that sometimes cover and +destroy the growing crops. The peach trees are often buried in sand or +only their top branches remain visible. There are no running streams +of water and rains are infrequent. +</P> + +<P> +Corn is the principal crop and support of the Moquis. If there is a +good crop the surplus is stored away and kept to be used in the future +should a crop fail. The corn is planted in irregular hills and +cultivated with a hoe. It is dropped into deep holes made with a stick +and covered up. There is always enough moisture in the sand to sprout +the seed which, aided by an occasional shower, causes it to grow and +mature a crop. The corn is of a hardy, native variety that needs but +little water to make it grow. The grain is small and hard like popcorn +and ripens in several colors. +</P> + +<P> +It is carried home from the field by the men, and ground into meal by +the women. The sound of the grinding is heard in the street and is +usually accompanied by a song that sounds weird but musical. The meal +is ground into different grades of fineness and when used for bread is +mixed with water to form a thin batter which is spread by the hand upon +a hot, flat stone. It is quickly baked and makes a thin wafer that is +no thicker than paper. When done it is removed from the stone by the +naked hand and is rolled or folded into loaves which makes their prized +pici bread. It is said to be only one of fifty different methods which +the Moquis have of preparing corn for the table, or about twice the +number of styles known to any modern chef. +</P> + +<P> +The Moqui woman is favored above many of her sex who live in foreign +lands. As a child she receives much attention and toys galore, as the +parents are very fond of their children and devote much time to their +amusement. They make dolls of their Katcinas which are given to the +children to play with. A Katcina is the emblem of a deity that is +represented either in the form of a doll carved out of wood, woven into +a plaque or basket, or painted on tiles and pottery. There are between +three and four hundred Katcina dolls each one representing a different +divinity. When a doll is given to a child it is taught what it means, +thus combining instruction with amusement. The method is a perfect +system of kindergarten teaching, which the Moquis invented and used +centuries before the idea occurred to Froebel. +</P> + +<P> +When the girl is ten years old her education properly begins and she is +systematically inducted into the mysteries of housekeeping. At fifteen +she has completed her curriculum and can cook, bake, sew, dye, spin and +weave and is, indeed, graduated in all the accomplishments of the +finished Moqui maiden. She now does up her hair in two large coils or +whorls, one on each side of the head, which is meant to resemble a +full-blown squash blossom and signifies that the wearer is of +marriageable age and in the matrimonial market. It gives her a +striking yet not unbecoming appearance, and, if her style of coiffure +were adopted by modern fashion it would be something unusually +attractive. As represented by Donaldson in the eleventh census report +the handsome face of Pootitcie, a maiden of the pueblo of Sichomovi, +makes a pretty picture that even her white sisters must admire. After +marriage the hair is let down and done up in two hard twists that fall +over the shoulders. This form represents a ripe, dried squash blossom +and means fruitfulness. +</P> + +<P> +Her dress is not Spanish nor yet altogether Indian, but is simple, +comfortable and becoming, which is more than can be said of some +civilized costumes. She chooses her own husband, inherits her mother's +name and property and owns the house in which she lives. Instead of +the man owning and bossing everything, as he so dearly loves to do in +our own civilization, the property and labor of the Moqui husband and +wife are equally divided, the former owning and tending the fields and +flocks and the latter possessing and governing the house. +</P> + +<P> +The Moquis are famous for their games, dances and festivals, which have +been fully described by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes in various reports to the +Smithsonian Institution. They have many secret orders, worship the +supernatural, and believe in witchcraft. Their great fete day is the +Snake Dance, which is held in alternate years at Walpi and Oraibi, at +the former place in the odd year and at the latter place in the even +year, some time during the month of August. It is purely a religious +ceremony, an elaborate supplication for rain, and is designed to +propitiate the water god or snake deity. +</P> + +<P> +Preliminary ceremonies are conducted in the secret Kiva several days +preceding the public dance. The Kiva is an underground chamber that is +cut out of the solid rock, and is entered by a ladder. It has but a +single opening on top on a level with the street, which serves as door, +window and chimney. The room is only used by the men, and is, in fact, +a lodge room, where the members of the several secret orders meet and +engage in their solemn ceremonials. It is a sacred place, a holy of +holies, which none but members of a lodge may enter, and is carefully +guarded. +</P> + +<P> +The snakes used in the dance are all wild, and captured out on the open +plain. Four days prior to the dance the snake men, dressed in scanty +attire and equipped with their snake-capturing paraphernalia, march out +in squads and scour the surrounding country in search of snakes. One +day each is spent in searching the ground towards the four points of +the compass, in the order of north, west, south and east, returning at +the close of each day with their catch to the Kiva, where the snakes +are kept and prepared for the dance. The snakes caught are of several +varieties, but much the largest number are rattlesnakes. Respect is +shown for serpents of every variety and none are ever intentionally +harmed, but the rattlesnake is considered the most sacred and is +proportionately esteemed. Its forked tongue represents lightning, its +rattle thunder and its spots rain-clouds. The number of snakes they +find is surprising, as they catch from one to two hundred during the +four days' hunt on ground that might be carefully searched by white men +for months without finding a single reptile. +</P> + +<P> +The snake men are very expert in catching and handling serpents, and +are seldom bitten. If one is bitten it is nothing serious, as they +have a secret medicine which they use that is both prophylactic and +curative, and makes them immune to the poison so that no harm ever +results from a bite. The medicine is taken internally and also applied +locally. Efforts have been made to discover its composition but +without success. If a snake is located which shows fight by the act of +coiling it is tickled with a snake-whip made of eagle's feathers, which +soon soothes its anger and causes it to uncoil and try to run away. It +is then quickly and safely caught up and dropped from the hand into a +bag carried for that purpose. +</P> + +<P> +Visitors who attend the dance are under no restrictions, but are free +to come and go as they please, either sightseeing or in search of +curios. If the visitor has a supply of candy, matches and +smoking-tobacco to give away he finds frequent opportunities to bestow +his gifts. The children ask for "canty," the women want "matchi," and +the men are pleased with a "smoke." +</P> + +<P> +On the morning of the dance both the men and women give their hair an +extra washing by using a mixture of water and crushed soap-root. The +white fibers of the soap-root get mixed with the hair, which gives it a +tinge of iron gray. The children also get a bath which, because of the +great scarcity of water, is not of daily occurrence. +</P> + +<P> +To the Moquis the snake dance is a serious and solemn affair, but to +the visitors it is apt to be an occasion for fun and frolic. Owing to +a misunderstanding of its true meaning, and because of misconduct in +the past on similar occasions, notice is posted on the Kiva asking +visitors to abstain from loud laughing and talking. In other words it +is a polite request made by the rude red man of his polished (?) white +brother to please behave himself. +</P> + +<P> +The dance begins late in the afternoon and lasts less than one hour, +but while it is in progress the action is intense. The snakes are +carried in a bag or jar from the Kiva to the Kisa, built of cotton-wood +boughs on one side of the plaza, where the snakes are banded out to the +dancers. After much marching and countermarching about the plaza, +chanting weird songs and shaking rattles, the column of snake priests, +dressed in a fantastic garb of paint, fur and feathers, halts in front +of the Kisa and breaks up into groups of three. +</P> + +<P> +The carrier takes a snake from the Kisa puts it in his mouth, and +carries it there while dancing. Some of the more ambitious young men +will carry two or more of the smaller snakes at the same time. The +hugger throws his left arm over the shoulder of the carrier and with +his right hand fans the snake with his feather whip. The gatherer +follows after and picks up the snakes as they fall to the ground. +</P> + +<P> +After the snakes have all been danced they are thrown into a heap and +sprinkled with sacred corn meal by the young women. The scattering of +the meal is accompanied by a shower of spittle from the spectators, who +are stationed on, convenient roofs and ladders viewing the ceremony. +Fleet runners now catch up the snakes in handfuls and dash off in an +exciting race over the mesa and down rocky trails to the plains below +where the snakes are returned unharmed to their native haunts. +</P> + +<P> +While the men are away disposing of the reptiles the women carry out +large ollas, or jars, filled with a black liquid, which is the snake +medicine that is used in the final act of purification by washing. +When the men return to the mesa they remove their regalias and proceed +to drink of the snake medicine which acts as an emetic. With the +remainder of the concoction, and assisted by the women, they wash their +bodies free from paint. After the men are all washed and puked they +re-enter the Kiva, where the long fast is broken by a feast and the +formal ceremonies of the snake dance are ended. +</P> + +<P> +The snake dance is annually witnessed by many visitors who gather from +different sections of the country and even foreign lands. As there are +no hotels to entertain guests every visitor must provide his own outfit +for conveyance, eating and sleeping. Even water is scarce. Local +springs barely furnish enough water to supply the native population; +and when the number of people to be supplied is increased from one to +two hundred by the visitors who attend the dance, the water question +becomes a serious problem. +</P> + +<P> +On the lower portion of the road which leads up from the spring to the +gap at Walpi on the first mesa, the trail is over drifted sand which +makes difficult walking. To remedy this defect in the trail, a path +has been made of flat stones laid in the sand, which shows that the +Moquis are quick to recognize and utilize an advantage that contributes +to their convenience and comfort. +</P> + +<P> +The Santa Fe Pacific is the nearest railroad, which runs about one +hundred miles south of the Moqui villages. The tourist can secure +transportation at reasonable rates of local liverymen either from +Holbrook, Winslow, Canon Diablo or Flagstaff. The trip makes an +enjoyable outing that is full of interest and instruction from start to +finish. +</P> + +<P> +Some years ago the government, through its agents, began to civilize +and Christianize these Indians and established a school at Keam's +Canon, nine miles east of the first mesa, for that purpose. When the +school was opened the requisition for a specified number of children +from each pueblo was not filled until secured by force. As free +citizens of the United States, being such by the treaty made with +Mexico in 1848 and, indeed, already so under a system of +self-government superior to our own and established long before +Columbus discovered America, they naturally resented any interference +in their affairs but, being in the minority and overpowered, had to +submit. +</P> + +<P> +When the object of the school was explained to them, they consented to +receive secular instructions but objected to any religious teaching. +They asked to have schools opened in the pueblos on the plan of our +public schools where the children could attend during the day and +return home at night, and their home life be not broken up, but their +prayer was denied. +</P> + +<P> +The reservation school was opened for the purpose of instructing the +Moqui children in civilization, but the results obtained have not been +entirely satisfactory. The methods employed for enforcing discipline +have been unnecessarily severe and have given dissatisfaction. As +recently as the year 1903 the children of this inoffensive and harmless +people were forcibly taken from their homes and put into the schools. +The time selected for doing the dastardly deed was during the night in +midwinter when the weather was cold and the ground covered with snow. +Under the orders of the superintendent the reservation police made the +raid without warning or warrant of any kind. While the people slept, +the police entered their houses, dragged the little children from their +comfortable beds and drove them naked out into the snow and cold, where +they were rounded up and herded like cattle. +</P> + +<P> +The indignity and outrage of this and other similar acts have +embittered the Moquis until they have lost what little respect they +ever had for Christianity and civilization. The policy of the +government is to make them do whatever they do not want to do, to break +up the family and scatter its members. The treatment has created two +factions among the Moquis known as the "hostiles" who are only hostile +in opposing oppression and any change in their religious faith and +customs; and the "friendlies" who are willing to obey the boss placed +over them and comply with his demands. +</P> + +<P> +Religion is the dearest treasure of mankind, and when assailed always +finds ready defenders. Possessed by this innate feeling of right and +rankling with the injustice of the past, is it surprising that they +should spurn any proffered help? They remember what they have suffered +in the past and do not care to repeat the experiment. To this day the +Moquis hold the mission epoch in contempt and nothing could induce them +to accept voluntarily any proposition that savored ought of the old +regime. Every vestige of that period has been obliterated from the +pueblos that nothing tangible should remain to remind them of their +undeserved humiliation. +</P> + +<P> +They are a highly religious people worshiping after their own creed, +and are sincere and conscientious in their devotions. Almost +everything they do has some religious significance and every day its +religious observance. Their religion satisfies them and harms no one, +then why not leave them in peace? We believe that we can benefit them, +which is doubtless true, but might they not also teach us some useful +lessons? It would sometimes be more to our credit if we were less +anxious to teach others, and more willing to learn ourselves. +</P> + +<P> +Next to their religion they love their homes most. The rocks upon +which they live, are they not dear from associations? Is it not the +land of their birth and the home of their fathers during many +generations? They cling with stubborn tenacity to their barren mesas +and nothing thus far has succeeded in driving them away; neither war, +pestilence nor famine. Repeated attempts have been made to induce them +to leave, but without success. +</P> + +<P> +Tom Polaki, the principal man of Tewa, was the first man to respond to +the call to come down. He left the mesa several years ago, and went to +the plain below to live. Having captured the bell wether it was +presumed that the balance of the flock would soon follow, but the +contrary proved to be true. At the foot of the bluff near a spring on +the road that leads up to the gap Tom built a modern house and tried to +imitate the white man. But the change did not suit him, and after +living in his modern house for a number of years, he finally sold it +and returned to his old home on the mesa. A few others at different +times have tried the same experiment with no better success. The man +would stay for a short time in the house provided for him, but never +made it a permanent home for his family. +</P> + +<P> +That the Moquis are changing is best illustrated by reference to one of +their marriage customs. It is the custom when a youth contemplates +matrimony to make a marriage blanket. He grows the cotton, spins the +yarn and weaves the cloth, which requires a year or more of time to +finish. Since the children have gone to school it is not deemed +necessary for a young man to go to so much trouble and expense as to +make a marriage blanket, but instead, he borrows one from a friend in +the village, and after the ceremony is over returns it to the owner. +Even now it is not easy to find such a blanket, and very soon they will +be priceless as no more such garments will be made. +</P> + +<P> +The only reasonable explanation why any people should select a location +like that of the Moquis is on the hypothesis of choice. There is much +of the animal in human nature that is influenced by instinct, and man, +like the brute, often unconsciously selects what is most congenial to +his nature. Thus instinct teaches the eagle to nest on the highest +crag and the mountain sheep to browse in pastures which only the +hardiest hunter dare approach. For no better reason, apparently, do +the Moquis occupy their barren mesas; they simply prefer to live there +above any other place. +</P> + +<P> +Safety has been urged as a motive for their conduct but it alone is not +a sufficient reason for solving the problem. Their position is safe +enough from attack but in the event of a siege their safety would only +be temporary. With their scant water supply at a distance and +unprotected they could not hold out long in a siege, but would soon be +compelled either to fight, fly or famish. +</P> + +<P> +Again, if safety was their only reason for staying, they could have +left long ago and had nothing to fear, as they have been for many years +at peace with their ancient enemy the predatory Navajo. But rather +than go they have chosen to remain in their old home where they have +always lived, and will continue to live so long as they are left free +to choose. +</P> + +<P> +The modern iconoclast in his unreasonable devotion to realism has, +perhaps, stripped them of much old time romance, but even with all of +that gone, enough of fact remains to make them a remarkable people. +Instead of seeking to change them this last bit of harmless aboriginal +life should be spared and preserved, if possible, in all of its native +purity and simplicity. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] The American Race, by D. G. Brinton, 1891. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] The Gilded Man, by A. F. Bandelier, 1893. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap14"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER XIV +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +A FINE CLIMATE +</H3> + +<P> +The climate of Arizona as described in the local vernacular is "sure +fine." The combination of elements which make the climate is unusual +and cannot be duplicated elsewhere upon the American continent. The +air is remarkably pure and dry. Siccity, indeed, is its distinguishing +feature. That the climate is due to geographical and meteorological +conditions cannot be doubted, but the effects are unexplainable by any +ordinary rules. +</P> + +<P> +The region involved not only embraces Arizona, but also includes +portions of California and Mexico and is commonly known as the Colorado +Desert. Yuma, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, is +approximately its geographical center. The general aspect of the +country is low and flat and in the Salton sink the dry land dips +several hundred feet below the level of the ocean. Only by extreme +siccity is such land possible when more water rises in evaporation than +falls by precipitation. There are but few such places in the world, +the deepest one being the Dead Sea, which is about thirteen hundred +feet lower than the ocean. +</P> + +<P> +The Colorado Basin is the dry bed of an ancient sea whose shore line is +yet visible in many places upon the sides of the mountains which +surround it. Its floor is composed of clay with deposits of sand and +salt. Strong winds sometimes sweep over it that shift and pile up the +sand in great dunes. The entire region is utterly bare and desolate, +yet by the use of water diverted from the Colorado river it is being +reclaimed to agriculture. +</P> + +<P> +The rainfall is very scant the average annual precipitation at Yuma +being less than three inches. The climate is not dry from any lack of +surface water, as it has the Gila and Colorado rivers, the Gulf of +California and the broad Pacific Ocean to draw from. But the singular +fact remains that the country is extremely dry and that it does not +rain as in other lands. +</P> + +<P> +Neither is the rainfall deficient from any lack of evaporation. Upon +the contrary the evaporation is excessive and according to the estimate +of Major Powell amounts fully to one hundred inches of water per annum. +If the vapors arising from this enormous evaporation should all be +condensed into clouds and converted into rain it would create a rainy +season that would last throughout the year. +</P> + +<P> +The humidity caused by an abundant rainfall in any low, hot country is +usually enough to unfit it for human habitation. The combined effect +of heat and moisture upon a fertile soil causes an excess of both +growing and decaying vegetation that fills the atmosphere with noxious +vapors and disease producing germs. The sultry air is so oppressive +that it is more than physical endurance can bear. The particles of +vapor which float in the atmosphere absorb and hold the heat until it +becomes like a steaming hot blanket that is death to unacclimated life. +All of this is changed where siccity prevails. The rapid evaporation +quickly dispels the vapors and the dry heat desiccates the disease +creating germs and makes them innocuous. +</P> + +<P> +The effect of heat upon the body is measured by the difference in the +actual and sensible temperatures, as recorded by the dry and wet bulb +thermometers. When both stand nearly together as they are apt to do in +a humid atmosphere, the heat becomes insufferable. In the dry climate +of Arizona such a condition cannot occur. The difference in the two +instruments is always great, often as much as forty degrees. For this +reason, a temperature of 118 degrees F. at Yuma is less oppressive than +98 degrees F. is in New York. A low relative humidity gives comfort +and freedom from sunstroke even when the thermometer registers the +shade temperature in three figures. +</P> + +<P> +A dry, warm climate is a stimulant to the cutaneous function. The skin +is an important excreting organ that is furnished with a large number +of sweat glands which are for the dual purpose of furnishing moisture +for cooling the body by evaporation and the elimination of worn out and +waste material from the organism. As an organ it is not easily injured +by over work, but readily lends its function in an emergency in any +effort to relieve other tired or diseased organs of the body. By +vicarious action the skin is capable of performing much extra labor +without injury to itself and can be harnessed temporarily for the +relief of some vital part which has become crippled until its function +can be restored. +</P> + +<P> +A diseased kidney depends particularly upon the skin for succor more +than any other organ. When the kidneys from any cause fail to act the +skin comes to their rescue and throws off impurities which nature +intended should go by the renal route. For this reason diabetes and +albuminuria, the most stubborn of all kidney diseases, are usually +benefited by a dry, warm climate. The benefit derived is due to an +increase of the insensible transpiration rather than to profuse +perspiration. The air of Arizona is so dry and evaporation so rapid +that an increase in perspiration is scarcely noticeable except when it +is confined by impervious clothing. The disagreeable feeling of wet +clothes which accompanies profuse perspiration in a damp climate is +changed to an agreeable sensation of coolness in a dry one. +</P> + +<P> +The atmosphere of Arizona is not only dry but also very electrical, so +much so, indeed, that at times it becomes almost painful. Whenever the +experiment is tried, sparks can be produced by friction or the handling +of metal, hair or wool. It affects animals as well as man, and +literally causes "the hair to stand on end." The writer has on various +occasions seen a string of horses standing close together at a +watering-trough, drinking, so full of electricity that their manes and +tails were spread out and floated in the air, and the long hairs drawn +by magnetic attraction from one animal to the other all down the line +in a spontaneous effort to complete a circuit. There are times when +the free electricity in the air is so abundant that every object +becomes charged with the fluid, and it cannot escape fast enough or +find "a way out" by any adequate conductor. The effects of such an +excess of electricity is decidedly unpleasant on the nerves, and causes +annoying irritability and nervousness. +</P> + +<P> +The hot sun sometimes blisters the skin and burns the complexion to a +rich, nut-brown color, but the air always feels soft and balmy, and +usually blows only in gentle zephyrs. The air has a pungent fragrance +which is peculiar to the desert, that is the mingled product of a +variety of resinous plants. The weather is uniformly pleasant, and the +elements are rarely violently disturbed. +</P> + +<P> +In the older settled sections of our country, whenever there is any +sudden or extreme change in the weather of either heat or cold, wet or +dry, it is always followed by an increase of sickness and death. The +aged and invalid, who are sensitive and weak, suffer mostly, as they +feel every change in the weather. There is, perhaps, no place on earth +that can boast of a perfect climate, but the country that can show the +fewest and mildest extremes approaches nearest to the ideal. The +southwest is exceptionally favored in its climatic conditions, and is +beneficial to the majority of chronic invalids. +</P> + +<P> +Atmospheric pressure is greatest near the earth's surface, and exerts a +controlling influence over the vital functions. Atmospheric pressure +is to the body what the governor is to the steam engine, or the +pendulum to the clock. It regulates vital action, insures safety and +lessens the wear and tear of machinery. Under its soothing influence +the number of respirations per minute are diminished, the heart beats +decreased in frequency, and the tired brain and nerves rested. It is +often better than medicine, and will sometimes give relief when all +other means fail. +</P> + +<P> +Arizona has a diversity of altitudes, and therefore furnishes a variety +of climates. The elevations range from about sea level at Yuma to +nearly thirteen thousand feet upon the San Francisco mountains. By +making suitable changes in altitude to fit the season it is possible to +enjoy perpetual spring. +</P> + +<P> +Because Arizona is far south geographically it is only natural to +suppose that it is all very hot, which is a mistake. In the low +valleys of southern Arizona the summers are hot, but it is a dry heat +which is not oppressive, and the winters are delightfully pleasant. In +northern Arizona the winters are cold and the summers cool. There is +no finer summer climate in the world than is found on the high plateaus +and pine-topped mountains of northern Arizona. Prescott, Williams and +Flagstaff have a charming summer climate, while at Yuma, Phoenix and +Tucson the winter weather is simply perfect. +</P> + +<P> +A mountain residence is not desirable for thin, nervous people or such +as are afflicted with any organic disease. A high altitude is too +stimulating for this class of patients and tends to increase +nervousness and aggravates organic disease. Such persons should seek a +coast climate and a low altitude, which is sedative, rather than risk +the high and dry interior. Any coast climate is better than the +mountains for nervous people, but the Pacific Coast is preferable to +any other because of its freedom from electrical storms and every other +form of disagreeable meteorological disturbance that tries the nerves. +The nervousness that is produced by a high altitude does not, as a +rule, develop suddenly, but grows gradually upon the patient. Those of +a sensitive nature feel it most and women more than men. After making +a change from a low to a high altitude sleep may be sound for a time, +but it soon becomes fitful and unrefreshing. +</P> + +<P> +It has been discovered that altitude increases the amount of +hemoglobulin and thus enriches the blood and is particularly beneficial +to pale, thin people. It also sharpens the appetite and promotes +digestion and assimilation. +</P> + +<P> +Persons suffering from rheumatism, neuralgia, advanced pulmonary +consumption, organic heart disease and all disorders of the brain and +nerves should avoid a high altitude. Patients that are afflicted with +any of the above-mentioned diseases are more comfortable in a low +altitude and should choose between the coast of California and the low, +dry lands of the lower Gila and Colorado rivers, according to the +season of the year and the quality of climate desired. +</P> + +<P> +The diseases which are especially benefited by the climate of Arizona +are consumption, bronchitis, catarrh and hay fever. Anyone going in +search of health who has improved by the change should remain where the +improvement took place lest by returning home and being again subjected +to the former climatic conditions which caused the disease the +improvement be lost and the old disease re-established with increased +severity. +</P> + +<P> +Most sick people who are in need of a change live in a humid atmosphere +where the winters are extremely cold and the summers uncomfortably hot, +and to be benefited by a change must seek a climate in which the +opposite conditions prevail. The climate of the southwest furnishes +just what such invalids require. The sick who need cold or damp +weather, if there be any such, can be accommodated almost anywhere, but +those who want a warm, dry climate must go where it can be found. Not +every invalid who goes in search of health finds a cure, as many who +start on such a journey are already past help when they leave home. +When a case is hopeless the patient should not undertake such a trip, +but remain quietly at home and die in peace among friends. +</P> + +<P> +As already intimated the climate of the Colorado basin is ideal in +winter, but becomes very hot in summer. Its low altitude, rainless +days, cloudless skies and balmy air form a combination that is +unsurpassed and is enjoyed by all either sick or well. The heat of +summer does not create sickness, but becomes monotonous and tiresome +from its steady and long continuance. Many residents of the Territory +who tire of the heat and can afford the trip take a vacation during the +summer months and either go north to the Grand Canon and the mountains +or to the Pacific Coast. Every summer witnesses a hegira of sun baked +people fleeing from the hot desert to the mountains or ocean shore in +search of coolness and comfort. +</P> + +<P> +Life in the tropics, perhaps, inclines to indolence and languor, +particularly if the atmosphere is humid, but in a dry climate like that +of Arizona the heat, although sometimes great, is never oppressive or +debilitating. It has its lazy people like any other country and for +the same reason that there are always some who were born tired and +never outgrow the tired feeling, but Arizona climate is more bracing +than enervating. +</P> + +<P> +The adobe house of the Mexican is a peculiar institution of the +southwest. It may be interesting on account of its past history, but +it is certainly not pretty. It is nothing more than a box of dried +mud with its roof, walls and floor all made of dirt. It is never free +from a disagreeable earthy smell which, if mingled with the added odors +of stale smoke and filth, as is often the case, makes the air simply +vile. The house can never be kept tidy because of the dirt which falls +from the adobe, unless the walls and ceilings are plastered and +whitewashed, which is sometimes done in the better class of houses. If +the house is well built it is comfortable enough in pleasant weather, +but as often as it rains the dirt roof springs a leak and splashes +water and mud over everything. If by chance the house stands on low +ground and is surrounded by water, as sometimes happens, after a heavy +rain the walls become soaked and dissolved into mud when the house +collapses. The adobe house may have been suited to the wants of a +primitive people, but in the present age of improvement, it is scarcely +worth saving except it be as a relic of a vanishing race. +</P> + +<P> +In order to escape in a measure the discomforts of the midday heat the +natives either seek the shade in the open air where the breeze blows, +or, what is more common, close up tight the adobe house in the morning +and remain indoors until the intense heat from the scorching sun +penetrates the thick walls, which causes the inmates to move out. In +the cool of the evening they visit and transact business and when the +hour comes for retiring go to bed on cots made up out of doors where +they sleep until morning, while the house is left open to cool off +during the night. This process is repeated every day during the hot +summer months and is endured without complaint. +</P> + +<P> +The natives, also, take advantage of the dry air to operate a novel +method of refrigeration. The cloth covered army canteen soaked in +water and the handy water jug of the eastern harvest field wrapped in a +wet blanket are familiar examples of an ineffectual attempt at +refrigeration by evaporation. But natural refrigeration find its best +illustration in the arid regions of the southwest by the use of an +olla, which is a vessel made of porous pottery, a stout canvas bag or a +closely woven Indian basket. A suitable vessel is selected, filled +with water and suspended somewhere in midair in the shade. If it is +hung in a current of air it is all the better, as any movement of the +atmosphere facilitates evaporation. A slow seepage of water filters +through the open pores of the vessel which immediately evaporates in +the dry air and lowers the temperature. The water in the olla soon +becomes cold and if properly protected will remain cool during the +entire day. +</P> + +<P> +The dry air also acts as a valuable preservative. During the winter, +when the weather is cool but not freezing, if fresh meat is hung out in +the open air, it will keep sweet a long time. A dry crust soon forms +upon its surface which hermetically seals the meat from the air and +keeps it perfectly sweet. In the summer it is necessary to dry the +meat more quickly to keep it from spoiling. It is then made into +"jerky" by cutting it into long, thin strips and hanging them up in the +sun to dry. After it is thoroughly dried, it is tied up in bags and +used as needed, either by eating it dry from the pocket when out on a +tramp, or, if in camp, serving it in a hot stew. +</P> + +<P> +Even the carcass of a dead animal that is left exposed upon the ground +to decompose does not moulder away by the usual process of decay, but +what is left of the body after the hungry buzzards and coyotes have +finished their feast, dries up into a mummy that lasts for years. +</P> + +<P> +Climate everywhere unquestionably influences life in its evolution, but +it is not always easy to determine all of its effects in detail. In +Arizona, which is but a comparatively small corner of our country, live +several races of men that are as different from each other as nature +could make them, yet all live in the same climate. +</P> + +<P> +The Pueblo Indian is in a manner civilized, peaceable and industrious. +He is brave in self-defense, but never seeks war nor bloodshed. Quite +different is his near neighbor, the bloodthirsty Apache, who seems to +delight only in robbing and killing people. Cunning and revenge are +pronounced traits of his character and the Government has found him +difficult to conquer or control. The Mexican leads a shiftless, +thriftless life and seems satisfied merely to exist. He has, +unfortunately, inherited more of the baser than the better qualities of +his ancestors, and, to all appearance, is destined to further +degenerate. The American is the last comer and has already pushed +civilization and commerce into the remotest corners and, as usual, +dominates the land. +</P> + +<P> +As diverse as are these several races in many respects, each one of +them furnishes splendid specimens of physical manhood. The Indian has +always been noted for his fine physique, and is large bodied, well +muscled and full chested. One advantage which the southwest has over +other countries is that the climate is mild and favorable to an outdoor +life, which is conducive to health and physical development. +</P> + +<P> +No single race of men flourish equally well everywhere, but each one is +affected by its own surroundings; and, what is true of a race, is also +true of an individual. The pioneer in any country is always an +interesting character, but he differs in peculiarities according to his +environment of mountain, plain or forest. Occupation also exerts an +influence and in time develops distinct types like the trapper, miner, +soldier and cowboy, that only the graphic pencil of a Remington can +accurately portray. The eccentricities of character which are +sometimes met in men who dwell on the frontier are not always due alone +to disposition, but are largely the product of the wild life which they +live, that inclines them to be restless, reckless and even desperate. +</P> + +<P> +There is no better field for observing and studying the effects of +environment upon human life than is furnished by the arid region of the +southwest. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARIZONA SKETCHES *** + +***** This file should be named 756-h.htm or 756-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/7/5/756/ + +Produced by Dianne Bean. 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Munk + +Posting Date: August 3, 2008 [EBook #756] +Release Date: December, 1996 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARIZONA SKETCHES *** + + + + +Produced by Dianne Bean. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + +ARIZONA SKETCHES + + +by + +Joseph A. Munk + + + + + +CHAPTER + + I. A ROMANTIC LAND + II. MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA + III. THE OPEN RANGE + IV. RANCH LIFE + V. THE ROUND-UP + VI. RANCH HAPPENINGS + VII. A MODEL RANCH + VIII. SOME DESERT PLANTS + IX. HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS + X. CANON ECHOES + XI. THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN + XII. THE CLIFF DWELLERS + XIII. THE MOQUI INDIANS + XIV. A FINE CLIMATE + + + + +CHAPTER I + +A ROMANTIC LAND + +A stranger on first entering Arizona is impressed with the newness and +wildness that surrounds him. Indeed, the change is so great that it +seems like going to sleep and waking up in a new world. Everything +that he sees is different from the familiar objects of his home, and he +is filled with wonder and amazement at the many curious things that are +brought to his notice. Judging the country by what is common back +east, the average man is disappointed and prejudiced against what he +sees; but, estimated on its merits, it is found to be a land of many +attractions and great possibilities. + +A hasty trip through the country by rail gives no adequate idea of its +intrinsic value, as such a limited view only affords a superficial +glimpse of what should be leisurely and carefully examined to be +properly understood or appreciated. At the first glance it presents +the appearance of a desert, but to one who is acquainted with its +peculiarities it is by no means desolate. It furnishes a strong +contrast to the rolling woodlands of the far east, and to the boundless +prairies of the middle west; and, though it may never develop on the +plan of the older states, like California, it has an individuality and +charm of its own; and its endowment of natural wealth and beauty +requires no borrowing from neighbors to give it character or success. + +It has grand scenery, a salubrious climate, productive soil, rich +mineral deposits and rare archaeological remains. It also has a +diversified fauna and flora. The peccary, Gila monster, tarantula, +centipede, scorpion and horned toad are specimens of its strange animal +life; and, the numerous species of cacti, yucca, maguey, palo verde and +mistletoe are samples of its curious vegetation. It is, indeed, the +scientist's Paradise where much valuable material can be found to +enrich almost every branch of natural science. + +Hitherto its growth has been greatly retarded by its remote position in +Uncle Sam's domain; but, with the comparatively recent advent of the +railroad, the influx of capital and population, and the suppression of +the once dreaded and troublesome Apache, a new life has been awakened +that is destined to redeem the country from its ancient lethargy and +make it a land of promise to many home seekers and settlers. + +When the Spaniards under Coronado first entered the land more than +three hundred and fifty years ago in search of the seven cities of +Cibola, they found upon the desert sufficient evidence of an extinct +race to prove that the land was once densely populated by an +agricultural and prosperous people. When or how the inhabitants +disappeared is unknown and may never be known. It is even in doubt who +they were, but, presumably, they were of the Aztec or Toltec race; or, +perhaps, of some civilization even more remote. + +The Pueblo Indians are supposed to be their descendants, but, if so, +they were, when first found, as ignorant of their ancestors as they +were of their discoverers. When questioned as to the past they could +give no intelligent answer as to their antecedents, but claimed that +what the white man saw was the work of Montezuma. All that is known of +this ancient people is what the ruins show, as they left no written +record or even tradition of their life, unless it be some inscriptions +consisting of various hieroglyphics and pictographs that are found +painted upon the rocks, which undoubtedly have a meaning, but for lack +of interpretation remain a sealed book. The deep mystery in which they +are shrouded makes their history all the more interesting and gives +unlimited scope for speculation. + +Arizona is a land that is full of history as well as mystery and +invites investigation. It has a fascination that every one feels who +crosses its border. Paradoxical as it may seem it is both the oldest +and newest portion of our country--the oldest in ancient occupation and +civilization and the newest in modern progress. In natural wonders it +boasts of the Grand Canon of Arizona, the painted desert, petrified +forest, meteorite mountain, natural bridge, Montezuma's well and many +other marvels of nature. There are also ruins galore, the cave and +cliff dwellings, crumbled pueblos, extensive acequias, painted rocks, +the casa grande and old Spanish missions. Anyone who is in search of +the old and curious, need not go to foreign lands, but can find right +here at home in Arizona and the southwest, a greater number and variety +of curiosities than can be found in the same space anywhere else upon +the globe. + +Arizona is a land of strong contrasts and constant surprises, where +unusual conditions prevail and the unexpected frequently happens. + +From the high Colorado plateau of northern Arizona the land slopes +toward the southwest to the Gulf of California. Across this long slope +of several hundred miles in width, numerous mountain ranges stretch +from the northwest to the southeast. Through the middle of the +Territory from east to west, flows the Gila river to its confluence +with the Colorado. This stream marks the dividing line between the +mountains which descend from the north and those that extend south, +which increase in altitude and extent until they culminate in the grand +Sierra Madres of Mexico. + +The traveler in passing through the country never gets entirely out of +the sight of mountains. They rise up all about him and bound the +horizon near and far in every direction. In riding along he always +seems to be approaching some distant mountain barrier that ever recedes +before him as he advances. He is never clear of the encircling +mountains for, as often as he passes out of one enclosure through a gap +in the mountains, he finds himself hemmed in again by a new one. The +peculiarity of always being in the midst of mountains and yet never +completely surrounded, is due to an arrangement of dovetailing or +overlapping in their formation. His winding way leads him across +barren wastes, through fertile valleys, among rolling hills and into +sheltered parks, which combine an endless variety of attractive scenery. + +An Arizona landscape, though mostly of a desert type, is yet full of +interest to the lover of nature. It presents a strangely fascinating +view, that once seen, will never be forgotten. It stirs a rapture in +the soul that only nature can inspire. + +Looking out from some commanding eminence, a wide spreading and +diversified landscape is presented to view. Though hard and rugged, +the picture, as seen at a distance, looks soft and smooth and its +details of form and color make an absorbing study. + +The eye is quick to note the different hues that appear in the field of +vision and readily selects five predominating colors, namely, gray, +green, brown, purple and blue, which mingle harmoniously in various +combinations with almost every other color that is known. The most +brilliant lights, sombre shadows, exquisite tints and delicate tones +are seen which, if put on canvas and judged by the ordinary, would be +pronounced exaggerated and impossible by those unfamiliar with the +original. + +The prevailing color is gray, made by the dry grass and sandy soil, and +extends in every direction to the limit of vision. The gramma grass of +the and region grows quickly and turns gray instead of brown, as +grasses usually do when they mature. It gives to the landscape a +subdued and quiet color, which is pleasing to the eye and makes the +ideal background in a picture. + +Into this warp of gray is woven a woof of green, spreading in irregular +patches in all directions. It is made by the chaparral, which is +composed of a variety of desert plants that are native to the soil and +can live on very little water. It consists of live oak, pinion, +mesquite, desert willow, greasewood, sage brush, palmilla, maguey, +yucca and cacti and is mostly evergreen. + +The admixture of gray and green prevails throughout the year except +during the summer rainy season, when, if the rains are abundant, the +gray disappears almost entirely, and the young grass springs up as by +magic, covering the whole country with a carpet of living green. In +the midst of the billowy grass myriads of wild flowers bloom, and stand +single or shoulder to shoulder in masses of solid color by the acre. + +Upon the far mountains is seen the sombre brown in the bare rocks. The +whole region was at one time violently disturbed by seismic force and +the glow of its quenched fires has even yet scarcely faded away. Large +masses of igneous rocks and broad streams of vitrified lava bear mute +testimony of the change, when, by some mighty subterranean force, the +tumultuous sea was rolled back from its pristine bed and, in its stead, +lofty mountains lifted their bald beads above the surrounding +desolation, and stand to-day as they have stood in massive grandeur +ever since the ancient days of their upheaval. Rugged and bleak they +tower high, or take the form of pillar, spire and dome, in some +seemingly well-constructed edifice erected by the hand of man. But the +mountains are not all barren. Vast areas of fertile soil flank the +bare rocks where vegetation has taken root, and large fields of forage +and extensive forests of oak and pine add value and beauty to the land. + +The atmosphere is a striking feature of the country that is as pleasing +to the eye as it is invigorating to the body. Over all the landscape +hangs a veil of soft, purple haze that is bewitching. It gives to the +scene a mysterious, subtle something that is exquisite and holds the +senses in a magic spell of enchantment. + +Distance also is deceptive and cannot be estimated as under other +skies. The far-off mountains are brought near and made to glow in a +halo of mellow light. Manifold ocular illusions appear in the mirage +and deceive the uninitiated. An indefinable dreamy something steals +over the senses and enthralls the soul. + +Arching heaven's high dome is a sky of intense blue that looks so +wonderfully clear and deep that even far-famed Italy cannot surpass it. +The nights are invariably clear and the moon and stars appear unusually +bright. The air is so pure that the stars seem to be advanced in +magnitude and can be seen quite low down upon the horizon. + +The changing lights that flash in the sky transform both the sunrise +and sunset into marvels of beauty. In the mellow afterglow of the +sunset, on the western sky, stream long banners of light, and fleecy +clouds of gold melt away and fade in the twilight. + +At midday in the hazy distance, moving slowly down the valley, can be +seen spiral columns of dust that resemble pillars of smoke. They +ascend perpendicularly, incline like Pisa's leaning tower, or are beat +at various angles, but always retaining the columnar form. They rise +to great heights and vanish in space. These spectral forms are caused +by small local whirlwinds when the air is otherwise calm, and are, +apparently, without purpose, unless they are intended merely to amuse +the casual observer. + +A cloudy day is rare and does not necessarily signify rain. Usually +the clouds are of the cumulus variety and roll leisurely by in billowy +masses. Being in a droughty land the clouds always attract attention +viewed either from an artistic or utilitarian standpoint. When out on +parade they float lazily across the sky, casting their moving shadows +below. The figures resemble a mammoth pattern of crazy patchwork in a +state of evolution spread out for inspection. + +The impression that is made while looking out upon such a scene is that +of deep silence. Everything is hushed and still; but, by listening +attentively, the number of faint sounds that reach the ear in an +undertone is surprising. The soft soughing of the wind in the trees; +the gentle rustle of the grass as it is swayed by the passing breeze; +the musical ripple of water as it gurgles from the spring; the piping +of the quail as it calls to its mate; the twitter of little birds +flitting from bush to bough; the chirp of the cricket and drone of the +beetle are among the sounds that are heard and fall soothingly upon the +ear. + +The trees growing upon the hillside bear a striking resemblance to an +old orchard and are a reminder of home where in childhood the hand +delighted to pluck luscious fruit from drooping boughs. A walk among +the trees makes it easy to imagine that you are in some such familiar +but neglected haunt, and instinctively you look about expecting to see +the old house that was once called home and hear the welcome voice and +footfall of cherished memory. It is no little disappointment to be +roused from such a reverie to find the resemblance only a delusion and +the spot deserted. Forsaken as it has been for many years by the +native savage Indians and prowling wild beasts, the land waits in +silence and patience the coming of the husbandman. + + + +CHAPTER II + +MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA + +I recall with vivid distinctness my first trip to Arizona and +introduction to ranch life in the spring of 1884. The experience made +a deep impression and has led me to repeat the visit many times since +then, with increased interest and pleasure. + +During the previous year my brother located a cattle ranch for us in +Railroad Pass in southeastern Arizona. The gap is one of a series of +natural depressions in a succession of mountain chains on the +thirty-second parallel route, all the way from New Orleans to San +Francisco over a distance of nearly twenty-five hundred miles. The +Southern Pacific Railroad is built upon this route and has the easiest +grade of any transcontinental line. + +Railroad Pass is a wide break between two mountain ranges and is a fine +grazing section. It is handsomely bounded and presents a magnificent +view. To the north are the Pinaleno mountains, with towering Mt. +Graham in their midst, that are nearly eleven thousand feet high and +lie dark in the shadows of their dense pine forests. Far to the south +rise the rugged Chiricahuas, and nearby stands bald Dos Cabezas, whose +giant double head of granite can be seen as a conspicuous landmark over +a wide scope of country. The distance across the Pass as the crow +flies is, perhaps, fifty miles. Beyond these peaks other mountains +rise in majestic grandeur and bound the horizon in every direction. + +At the time that the ranch was located the Pass country was considered +uninhabitable because of the scarcity of water and the presence of +hostile Indians. No permanent spring nor stream of water was known to +exist in that whole region, but fine gramma grass grew everywhere. Its +suitability as a cattle range was recognized and caused it to be +thoroughly prospected for water, which resulted in the discovery of +several hidden springs. All of the springs found, but one, were +insignificant and either soon went dry or fluctuated with the seasons; +but the big spring, known as Pinaleno, was worth finding, and flows a +constant stream of pure, soft water that fills a four-inch iron pipe. + +When the spring was discovered not a drop of water was visible upon the +surface, and a patch of willows was the only indication of concealed +moisture. By sinking a shallow well only a few feet deep among the +willows, water was struck as it flowed through coarse gravel over a +buried ledge of rock that forced the water up nearly to the surface +only to sink again in the sand without being seen. A ditch was dug to +the well from below and an iron pipe laid in the trench, through which +the water is conducted into a reservoir that supplies the water troughs. + +Again, when the ranch was opened the Indians were bad in the vicinity +and had been actively hostile for some time. The ranch is on a part of +the old Chiricahua reservation that was once the home and hunting +grounds of the tribe of Chiricahua Apaches, the most bold and warlike +of all the southwest Indians. Cochise was their greatest warrior, but +he was only one among many able Apache chieftains. He was at one time +the friend of the white man, but treachery aroused his hatred and +caused him to seek revenge on every white man that crossed his path. + +His favorite haunt was Apache Pass, a convenient spot that was +favorable for concealment, where he lay in wait for weary travelers who +passed that way in search of water and a pleasant camp ground. If +attacked by a superior force, as sometimes happened, he invariably +retreated across the Sulphur Spring valley into his stronghold in the +Dragoon mountains. + +Because of the many atrocities that were committed by the Indians, +white men were afraid to go into that country to settle. Even as late +as in the early eighties when that prince of rascals, the wily +Geronimo, made his bloody raids through southern Arizona, the men who +did venture in and located ranch and mining claims, lived in daily +peril of their lives which, in not a few instances, were paid as a +forfeit to their daring. + +The Butterfield stage and all other overland travel to California by +the southern route before the railroads were built, went through Apache +Pass. Although it was the worst Indian infested section in the +southwest, travelers chose that dangerous route in preference to any +other for the sake of the water that they knew could always be found +there. + +The reputation of Apache Pass, finally became so notoriously bad +because of the many murders committed that the Government, late in the +sixties, built and garrisoned Ft. Bowie for the protection of travelers +and settlers. The troops stationed at the post endured much hardship +and fought many bloody battles before the Indians were conquered. Many +soldiers were killed and buried in a little graveyard near the fort. +When the fort was abandoned a few years ago, their bodies were +disinterred and removed to the National cemetery at Washington. + +Railroad Pass is naturally a better wagon road than Apache Pass, but is +without water. It was named by Lieut. J. G. Parke in 1855 while +engaged in surveying for the Pacific Railroad, because of its easy +grade and facility for railroad construction. + +I timed my visit to correspond with the arrival at Bowie station on the +Southern Pacific Railroad, of a consignment of ranch goods that had +been shipped from St. Louis. I was met at the depot by the ranch +force, who immediately proceeded to initiate me as a tenderfoot. I +inquired of one of the cowboys how far it was to a near-by mountain. +He gave a quien sabe shrug of the shoulder and answered me in Yankee +fashion by asking how far I thought it was. Estimating the distance as +in a prairie country I replied, "Oh, about a mile." He laughed and +said that the mountain was fully five miles distant by actual +measurement. I had unwittingly taken my first lesson in plainscraft +and prudently refrained thereafter from making another sure guess. + +The deception was due to the rarefied atmosphere, which is peculiar to +the arid region. It not only deceives the eye as to distance, but also +as to motion. If the eye is steadily fixed upon some distant inanimate +object, it seems to move in the tremulous light as if possessed of +life, and it is not always easy to be convinced to the contrary. +However, by putting the object under inspection in line with some +further object, it can readily be determined whether the object is +animate or still by its remaining on or moving off the line. + +Another peculiarity of the country is that objects do not always seem +to stand square with the world. In approaching a mountain and moving +on an up grade the plane of incline is suddenly reversed and gives the +appearance and sensation of going downhill. In some inexplicable +manner sense and reason seem to conflict and the discovery of the +disturbed relation of things is startling. You know very well that the +mountain ahead is above you, but it has the appearance of standing +below you in a hollow; and the water in the brook at your feet, which +runs down the mountain into the valley, seems to be running uphill. By +turning squarely about and looking backwards, the misplaced objects +become righted, and produces much the same sensation that a man feels +who is lost and suddenly finds himself again. + +We immediately prepared to drive out to the ranch, which was ten miles +distant and reached by a road that skirted the Dos Cabezas mountains. +The new wagon was set up and put in running order and lightly loaded +with supplies. All of the preliminaries being completed, the horses +were harnessed and hooked to the wagon. The driver mounted his seat, +drew rein and cracked his whip, but we didn't go. The horses were only +accustomed to the saddle and knew nothing about pulling in harness. +Sam was a condemned cavalry horse and Box was a native bronco, and +being hitched to a wagon was a new experience to both. The start was +unpropitious, but, acting on the old adage that "necessity is the +mother of invention," which truth is nowhere better exemplified than on +the frontier where conveniences are few and the most must be made of +everything, after some delay and considerable maneuvering we finally +got started. + +The road for some distance out was level and smooth and our progress +satisfactory. As we drove leisurely along I improved the opportunity +to look about and see the sights. It was a perfect day in April and +there never was a brighter sky nor balmier air than beamed and breathed +upon us. The air was soft and tremulous with a magical light that +produced startling phantasmagoric effects. + +It was my first sight of a mirage and it naturally excited my +curiosity. It seemed as if a forest had suddenly sprung up in the San +Simon valley where just before had appeared only bare ground. With +every change in the angle of vision as we journeyed on, there occurred +a corresponding change in the scene before us that produced a charming +kaleidoscopic effect. The rough mountain was transformed into a +symmetrical city and the dry valley into a lake of sparkling +water,--all seeming to be the work of magic in some fairyland of +enchantment. + +In a ledge of granite rock by the wayside were cut a number of round +holes which the Indians had made and used as mills for grinding their +corn and seeds into meal. Nearby also, were some mescal pits used for +baking the agave, a native plant that is in great demand as food by the +Indians. The spot was evidently an old rendezvous where the marauding +Apaches were accustomed to meet in council to plan their bloody raids, +and to feast on mescal and pinole in honor of some successful foray or +victory over an enemy. + +We next crossed several well-worn Indian trails which the Apaches had +made by many years of travel to and fro between their rancherias in the +Mogollon mountains and Mexico. The sight of these trails brought us +back to real life and a conscious sense of danger, for were we not in +an enemy's country and in the midst of hostile Indians? Nearly every +mile of road traveled had been at some time in the past the scene of a +bloody tragedy enacted by a savage foe. Even at that very time the +Apaches were out on the warpath murdering people, but fortunately we +did not meet them and escaped unmolested. + +The road now crossed a low hill, which was the signal for more trouble. +The team started bravely up the incline, but soon stopped and then +balked and all urging with whip and voice failed to make any +impression. After several ineffectual attempts to proceed it was +decided not to waste any more time in futile efforts. The horses were +unhitched and the wagon partly unloaded, when all hands by a united +pull and push succeeded in getting the wagon up the hill. After +reloading no difficulty was experienced in making a fresh start on a +down grade, but a little farther on a second and larger hill was +encountered, when the failure to scale its summit was even greater than +the first. No amount of coaxing or urging budged the horses an inch. +They simply were stubborn and would not pull. + +Night was approaching and camp was yet some distance ahead. The driver +suggested that the best thing to do under the circumstances was for the +rest of us to take the led horses and ride on to camp, while he would +remain with the wagon and, if necessary, camp out all night. We +reluctantly took his advice, mounted our horses and finished our +journey in the twilight. Aaron, who was housekeeper at the ranch, gave +us a hearty welcome and invited us to sit down to a bountiful supper +which he had prepared in anticipation of our coming. Feeling weary +after our ride we retired early and were soon sound asleep. The only +thing that disturbed our slumbers during the night was a coyote concert +which, as a "concord of sweet sounds was a dismal failure" but as a +medley of discordant sounds was a decided success. The bark of the +coyote is particularly shrill and sharp and a single coyote when in +full cry sounds like a chorus of howling curs. + +We were all up and out early the next morning to witness the birth of a +new day. The sunrise was glorious, and bright colors in many hues +flashed across the sky. The valley echoed with the cheerful notes of +the mocking bird and the soft air was filled with the fragrance of wild +flowers. The scene was grandly inspiring and sent a thrill of pleasure +through every nerve. + +While thus absorbed by the beauties of nature we heard an halloo, and +looking down the road in the direction of the driver's bivouac we saw +him coming swinging his hat in the air and driving at a rapid pace that +soon brought him to the ranch house. In answer to our inquiries as to +how he had spent the night he reported that the horses stood quietly in +their tracks all night long, while he slept comfortably in the wagon. +In the morning the horses started without undue urging as if tired of +inaction and glad to go in the direction of provender. They were +completely broken by their fast and after that gave no further trouble. + +After a stay of four weeks, learning something of the ways of ranch +life and experiencing not a few exciting adventures, I returned home +feeling well pleased with my first trip to the ranch. + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE OPEN RANGE + +Arizona is in the arid belt and well adapted to the range cattle +industry. Its mild climate and limited water supply make it the ideal +range country. Indeed, to the single factor of its limited water +supply, perhaps, more than anything else is its value due as an open +range. If water was abundant there could be no open range as then the +land would all be farmed and fenced. + +Arizona is sometimes spoken of as belonging to the plains, but it is +not a prairie country. Mountains are everywhere, but are separated in +many places by wide valleys. The mountains not only make fine scenery, +but are natural boundaries for the ranches and give shade and shelter +to the cattle. + +There are no severe storms nor blizzard swept plains where cattle drift +and perish from cold. The weather is never extremely cold, the mercury +seldom falling to more than a few degrees below freezing, except upon +the high plateaus and mountains of northern Arizona. If it freezes +during the night the frost usually disappears the next day; and, if +snow flies, it lies only on the mountains, but melts as fast as it +falls in the valleys. There are but few cloudy or stormy days in the +year and bright, warm sunshine generally prevails. There has never +been any loss of cattle from cold, but many have died from drought as a +result of overstocking the range. + +The pastures consist of valley, mesa and mountain lands which, in a +normal season, are covered by a variety of nutritious grasses. Of all +the native forage plants the gramma grass is the most abundant and +best. It grows only in the summer rainy season when, if the rains are +copious, the gray desert is converted into a vast green meadow. + +The annual rainfall is comparatively light and insufficient to grow and +mature with certainty any of the cereal crops. When the summer rains +begin to fall the rancher is "jubilant" and the "old cow smiles." Rain +means even more to the ranchman than it does to the farmer. In an +agricultural country it is expected that rain or snow will fall during +every month of the year, but on the range rain is expected only in +certain months and, if it fails to fall then, it means failure, in a +measure, for the entire year. + +Rain is very uncertain in Arizona. July and August are the rain months +during which time the gramma grass grows. Unless the rain falls daily +after it begins it does but little good, as frequent showers are +required to keep the grass growing after it once starts. A settled +rain of one or more days' duration is of rare occurrence. During the +rainy season and, in fact, at all times, the mornings are usually +clear. In the forenoon the clouds begin to gather and pile up in dark +billowy masses that end in showers during the afternoon and evening. +But not every rain cloud brings rain. Clouds of this character often +look very threatening, but all their display of thunder and lightning +is only bluff and bluster and ends in a fizzle with no rain. After +such a demonstration the clouds either bring wind and a disagreeable +dust storm, or, if a little rain starts to fall, the air is so dry that +it evaporates in mid air, and none of it ever reaches the earth. In +this fashion the clouds often threaten to do great things, only to +break their promise; and the anxious rancher stands and gazes at the +sky with longing eyes, only to be disappointed again and again. + +As a rule water is scarce. A long procession of cloudless days merge +into weeks of dry weather; and the weeks glide into months during which +time the brazen sky refuses to yield one drop of moisture either of dew +or rain to the parched and thirsty earth. Even the rainy season is not +altogether reliable, but varies considerably one year with another in +the time of its appearance and continuance. + +The soil is sandy and porous and readily absorbs water, except where +the earth is tramped and packed hard by the cattle. One peculiarity of +the country as found marked upon the maps, and that exists in fact, is +the diminution and often complete disappearance of a stream after it +leaves the mountains. If not wholly lost upon entering the valley the +water soon sinks out of sight in the sand and disappears and reappears +at irregular intervals, until it loses itself entirely in some +underground channel and is seen no more. + +Many a pleasant valley in the range country is made desolate by being +destitute of any surface spring or running brook, or water that can be +found at any depth. Occasionally a hidden fountain is struck by +digging, but it is only by the merest chance. Wells have been dug to +great depths in perfectly dry ground in an eager search for water +without finding it, and such an experience is usually equivalent to a +failure and the making of a useless bill of expense. + +A never-failing spring of good water in sufficient quantity to supply +the needs of a ranch in the range country is of rare occurrence, +considering the large territory to be supplied. Only here and there at +long intervals is such a spring found, and it is always a desirable and +valuable property. It makes an oasis in the desert that is an +agreeable change from the surrounding barrenness, and furnishes its +owner, if properly utilized, a comfortable subsistence for himself and +herds. His fields produce without fail and the increase of his flocks +and herds is sure. + +The isolated rancher who is well located is independent. He is in no +danger of being crowded by his neighbors nor his range becoming over +stocked with stray cattle. His water right gives him undisputed +control of the adjacent range, even though he does not own all the +land, which is an unwritten law of the range and respected by all +cattlemen. + +Because of the scarcity of water the range country is sparsely settled +and always will be until more water is provided by artificial means for +irrigation. Even then a large portion of the land will be worthless +for any other purpose than grazing, and stock-growing on the open range +in Arizona will continue to be a staple industry in the future as it +has been in the past. + +The range is practically all occupied and, in many places, is already +over stocked. Where more cattle are run on a range than its grass and +water can support there is bound to be some loss. In stocking a range +an estimate should be made of its carrying capacity in a bad year +rather than in a good one, as no range can safely carry more cattle +than it can support in the poorest year; like a chain, it is no +stronger than its weakest link. + +A good range is sometimes destroyed by the prairie dog. Wherever he +establishes a colony the grass soon disappears. He burrows in the +ground and a group of such holes is called a dog town. Like the +jack-rabbit he can live without water and is thus able to keep his hold +on the desert. The only way to get rid of him is to kill him, which is +usually done by the wholesale with poison. His flesh is fine eating, +which the Navajo knows if the white man does not. The Navajo considers +him a dainty morsel which is particularly relished by the sick. If a +patient can afford the price, he can usually procure a prairie dog in +exchange for two sheep. + +The Navajo is an adept at capturing this little animal. The hunter +places a small looking-glass near the hole and, in concealment near by, +he patiently awaits developments. When the prairie dog comes out of +his hole to take an airing he immediately sees his reflection in the +glass and takes it for an intruder. In an instant he is ready for a +fight and pounces upon his supposed enemy to kill or drive him away. +While the prairie dog is thus engaged wrestling with his shadow or +reflection the hunter shoots him at close range with his bow and +arrow--never with a gun, for if wounded by a bullet he is sure to drop +into his hole and is lost, but the arrow transfixes his body and +prevents him from getting away. He has been hunted so much in the +Navajo country that he has become very scarce.[1] + +Much of the ranch country in southern Arizona is destitute of trees, +and shade, therefore, is scarce. Upon the high mountains and plateaus +of northern Arizona there are great forests of pine and plenty of +shade. But few cattle range there in comparison to the large numbers +that graze on the lower levels further south. What little tree growth +there is on the desert is stunted and supplies but scant shade. In the +canons some large cottonwood, sycamore and walnut trees can be found; +upon the foot hills the live oak and still higher up the mountain the +pine. Cattle always seek the shade and if there are no trees they will +lie down in the shade of a bush or anything that casts a shadow. The +cattle are so eager for shade that if they can find nothing better they +will crowd into the narrow ribbon of shade that is cast by a columnar +cactus or telegraph pole and seem to be satisfied with ever so little +if only shade is touched. + +Twenty years ago before there were many cattle on the southwestern +range, the gramma grass stood knee high everywhere all over that +country and seemed to be an inexhaustible supply of feed for an +unlimited number of cattle during an indefinite term of years. It was +not many years, however, after the large herds were turned loose on the +range until the grass was all gone and the ground, except in a few +favored spots, left nearly as bare of grass as the traveled road. At +the present time whatever grass there is must grow each year which, +even in a favorable year, is never heavy. If the summer rains fail, no +grass whatever can grow and the cattle are without feed. The grass +about the springs and water holes is first to disappear and then the +cattle must go farther and farther from water to find any grass. When +cattle are compelled to travel over long distances in going from grass +to water, they naturally grow thin from insufficient food and are worn +out by the repeated long journeys. A cow that is thin and weak will +postpone making the trip as long as possible--two, three and even four +days in the hottest weather she will wait before attempting the trip. +At last, when the poor creature reaches water, she is so famished from +thirst that she drinks too much. In her feeble condition she is unable +to carry the enormous load of water which she drinks and lies down by +the side of the friendly water trough to die from exhaustion. + +If cattle are turned loose upon a new range they act strange and are +inclined to scatter. Until they become accustomed to the change they +should be close herded, but after they are once located they are not +liable to stray very far. + +As they are only worked by men on horseback they are not frightened at +the sight of a horse and rider; but let a stranger approach them on +foot, in a moment after he is sighted every head is raised in surprise +and alarm and the pedestrian is, indeed, fortunate if the herd turns +tail and scampers off instead of running him down and tramping him +under foot in a wild stampede. + +Nowhere else can be found a finer sight than is witnessed in the range +country. In every direction broad meadows stretch away to the horizon +where numberless cattle roam and are the embodiment of bovine happiness +and contentment. Scattered about in irregular groups they are seen at +ease lying down or feeding, and frisking about in an overflow of +exuberant life. Cow paths or trails converge from every point of the +compass, that lead to springs and water holes, on which the cattle +travel. + +It is an interesting sight to watch the cattle maneuver as they form in +line, single file, ready for the march. They move forward in an easy, +deliberate walk one behind the other and may be seen coming and going +in every direction. They make their trips with great regularity back +and forth from grass to water, and vice versa, going to water in the +morning and back to the feeding grounds at night. + +Cows have a curious fashion, sometimes, of hiding out their calves. +When a cow with a young calf starts for water she invariably hides her +calf in a bunch of grass or clump of bushes in some secluded spot, +where it lies down and remains perfectly quiet until the mother +returns. I have many times while riding the range found calves thus +secreted that could scarcely be aroused or frightened away, which +behavior was so different from their usual habit of being shy and +running off at the slightest provocation. The calf under such +circumstances seems to understand that it is "not at home," and cannot +be seen. + +At another time a lot of calves are left in charge of a young cow or +heifer that seems to understand her responsibility and guards her +charge carefully. The young calves are too weak to make the long trip +to water and thus, through the maternal instinct of the mother cow, she +provides for the care of her offspring almost as if she were human. + +After viewing such a large pasture as the open range presents, which is +limitless in extent, the small fenced field or pasture lot of a few +acres on the old home farm back east, that looked so large to boyish +eyes in years gone by, dwindles by comparison into insignificance and +can never again be restored to its former greatness. + + +[1] This statement is made on the authority of Mr. F. W. Volz, who +lives at Canon Diablo, and is familiar with the customs of the Navajos. + + + +CHAPTER IV + +RANCH LIFE + +Ranch life on the open range may be somewhat wild and lonely, but it is +as free and independent to the rancher as it is to his unfettered +cattle that roam at will over a thousand hills. As a place of +residence for a family of women and children it is undesirable because +of its isolation and lack of social and educational privileges; but +for a man who cares to "rough it" it has a rare fascination. Its +freedom may mean lonesomeness and its independence monotony, yet it is +very enjoyable for a season. Like anything else it may become wearing +and wearisome if continued too long without a change, but its novelty +has a charm that is irresistible. + +Ranch life is untrammeled by social conventionalities and is not +burdened by business cares, but is an easy, natural life that is free +from all kinds of pressure. It relieves the tension of an artificial +existence, and worry and vexation are forgotten. Time loses its rapid +flight and once more jogs on at an easy pace; and its complete +isolation and quiet gives nature a chance to rest and recuperate + + "Away from the dwellings of careworn men." + +The environment of ranch life is highly conducive to good health. The +scenery is delightful, the air pure and bracing, the food wholesome and +nutritious, the couch comfortable and the sleep refreshing. Walking +and riding furnish the necessary exercise that nature demands. Indeed, +there is no better exercise to be found than riding horseback to +stimulate sluggish organs, or excite to healthy action the bodily +functions. It stirs the liver, causes deep breathing, strengthens the +heart and circulation, tones the nerves and makes an appetite that +waits on good digestion. An outdoor life is often better than medicine +and is a panacea for the "ills that human flesh is heir to." + +The ranchman, if he is in tune with his surroundings, finds a +never-failing spring of pleasure. If he is company for himself he is +well entertained and if he is a lover of nature he finds interesting +subjects for study upon every hand. His wants are few and simple and +the free life that he lives develops in him a strong and sturdy +manhood. He is the picture of health and is happy and contented as the +day is long. + +However, such a life does not suit everyone, as individual tastes +differ. Prejudice also exerts an influence and is apt to estimate all +western life as crude and undesirable, being in a transition state of +change from savagery to civilization. Be it even so; for, if the +savage had never existed to furnish the ancestry that civilized man +boasts, civilization would not have been possible. It is only natural +that this should be so as, in the order of nature, evolution begins at +the bottom and works up. + +There is perhaps no condition in life that can be called perfect, yet +of the two extremes we choose to believe that civilization is +preferable to barbarism; but an intermediate state has the advantage +over both extremes by avoiding native crudeness upon the one hand and +excessive refinement upon the other, both being equally undesirable. + +Happiness, which we all profess to seek, exists in some degree +everywhere but we are always striving to acquire something more. In +our constant struggle for improvement, progress undoubtedly is made in +the right direction. With refinement comes increased sensibility and +an enlarged capacity for enjoyment. But, such a state in itself is not +one of unalloyed bliss, as might be supposed, since it is marred by its +antithesis, an increased amount of sickness and suffering, which is the +inevitable penalty of civilization. In such a progression the +pleasures of life become more, but the acuteness of suffering is also +increased. The mistake lies in the fact that in our eager pursuit +after the artificial we forget nature and not until we acquire a +surfeit of that which is artificial and grow weary of the shams and +deceits of the world do we stop and think or turn again to nature to +find the truth. + +In the early days the frontier was the rendezvous for rough and lawless +characters of every description. That time has gone by never to return +in the history of the nation, as the rustlers have either reformed and +become good citizens or long ago left the country by the lead or hemp +routes. The change in the times has been such that never again will it +be possible to return to the conditions that existed in the early +settlement of the west which gave to desperadoes a safe hiding place. + +The people now living on what is left of the frontier will, as a class, +compare favorably with those of any other community. There may be +small surface polish, as the world goes, but there is much genuine gold +of true character that needs only a little rubbing to make it shine. + +The population being sparse there is comparatively little opportunity +or inclination for wrongdoing. Whatever anybody does is noticed at +once and everything that happens is immediately found out. The +favorite haunt of vice and crime is not in a sparsely settled +community, public opinion to the contrary notwithstanding, but in the +centers of population, in, our large cities where temptation to do evil +is strong and dark deeds find ready concealment in the mingling and +confusion of the throng. + +The ranchman deserves to be correctly judged by his true character and +not by any false standard that is artfully designed to misrepresent him +or to unjustly bring him into contempt. He may have a rough exterior, +not intending to pose in a model fashion plate, but in real life where +he is tried there is found under his coarse garb a heart that is honest +and true which responds with sympathy and kindness for anyone in +distress; and his generosity and hospitality are proverbial and stand +without a rival. Men from every position in life, including college +graduates and professional men, are engaged in ranching and whoever +takes them to be a lot of toughs and ignoramuses is egregiously +mistaken. + +The strength, virtue and intelligence of the nation is found in its +large middle class of laboring people that is largely composed of +farmers and mechanics, men who work with their hands and live natural +lives and are so busy in some useful occupation that they have no time +to think of mischief. In this favored land of freedom all of our great +men have been of the common people and struggled up from some humble +position. A life of toil may seem to be hard, but it conforms to +nature and natural laws and favors the development of the best that is +in man; and he who shirks toil misses his opportunity. Whatever tends +to wean men from work only weakens them. Luxury and indolence travel +on the downward road of degeneracy. They may make pleasant temporary +indulgence, but are fatal to ultimate success. + +Locomotion on a ranch consists almost entirely of horseback riding as +walking is too slow and tiresome and wheeled conveyance is often +inconvenient or impossible for cross-country driving. When the +ranchman mounts his horse in the morning to make his daily rounds he +has a clear field before him. He is "monarch of all he surveys" and +practically owns the earth, since his neighbors live many miles away +and his road leads in any direction clear to the horizon. + +The average ranch is not intended to furnish luxuries, but to serve the +best interests of the business in hand, that of growing cattle. It is +usually a "stag camp" composed entirely of men who occupy a rude cabin +near some convenient spring or stream of water, where they keep house +in ranch style and live after a fashion. No money is ever expended in +unnecessary improvements, but every dollar spent in repairs is put +where it will do the most good. The house furnishings are all of the +plainest kind and intended to meet only present necessities. The +larder is not supplied with luxuries nor is the cuisine prolific of +dainties, but there is always on hand a supply of the necessaries of +life. + +Every man has his particular work to perform, but unless it be on some +large ranch where the force of men employed is sufficiently large to +require the services of a chef, he is also expected to assist in +keeping house. It is an unwritten law of the ranch that everybody on +the place must share in this work and if anyone shirks his duty he must +either promptly mend his ways or else quit his job. It is seldom, +however, that this rule has to be enforced, as the necessities of the +case require that every man shall be able to prepare a meal as he is +liable to be left alone for days or weeks at a time when he must either +cook or starve. + +The equipment of the cowboy is his horse and reata. They are his +constant companions and serve his every purpose. His work includes +much hard riding, which he greatly enjoys if no accident befalls him. +But dashing on in heedless speed while rounding up cattle he is ever +liable to mishaps, as his horse, although sure footed, may at any time +step into a prairie dogs' hole or stumble on a loose rock that is +liable to throw both horse and rider to the ground in a heap. He is, +indeed, fortunate if he escapes unhurt, or only receives a few bruises +and not a fractured bone or broken neck. + +His work consists in riding over the range and marking the condition of +the cattle; line riding to prevent the stock from straying; looking +after the springs and water holes and keeping them clean; branding +calves, gathering steers for market and assisting in the general work +of the round-up. Every day has its duty and every season its +particular work, yet there are times of considerable leisure during the +year. After his day's work is done he repairs to the ranch house, or +to some outlying camp, whichever happens to be nearest when night +overtakes him, for every large ranch has one or more such camps posted +at some convenient point that furnishes temporary shelter and +refreshment, where he rests and eats his frugal meal with a relish that +only health and rough riding can give. + +If he is at the home ranch in winter he spends the long evenings before +an open hearth fire of blazing logs and by the light of the fire and +the doubtful aid of a tallow dip lounges the hours away in reading and +cogitation; or, if in the company of congenial companions, engages in +conversation and pleasantry or any amusement that the party may select. +At an early hour he turns in for the night and after a sound and +refreshing sleep is up and out with the dawn. After breakfast he +mounts his horse and in his striking and characteristic costume of +broad sombrero, blue flannel shirt, fringed chaperejos and jingling +spurs he rides forth to his work a perfect type of the gallant +caballero. + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE ROUND-UP + +In the range cattle business it is important for every owner of live +stock to have some mark by which he can tell his own cattle. It is +impossible for any man to remember and recognize by natural marks every +animal in a large herd. On the open range there are no fenced pastures +to hold the cattle, but all are permitted to run free and mix +promiscuously. To distinguish the cattle of different owners a system +of earmarks and brands has been devised by which each ranchman can +identify and claim his own stock. + +The branding is usually done during a round-up when every calf found is +caught and branded in the brand of its mother. If a calf remains +unbranded until after it is weaned and quits its mother, it becomes a +maverick and is liable to be lost to its owner. A calf, if left to +itself, will follow its mother for several months and then leave her to +seek its own living. Occasionally a calf does not become weaned when +it should be, but continues the baby habit indefinitely. If a yearling +is found unweaned it is caught and "blabbed" which is done by fitting a +peculiarly shaped piece of wood into its nose that prevents it from +sucking but does not interfere with feeding. + +If a calf loses its mother while very young it is called a "leppy." +Such an orphan calf is, indeed, a forlorn and forsaken little creature. +Having no one to care for it, it has a hard time to make a living. If +it is smart enough to share the lacteal ration of some more fortunate +calf it does very well, but if it cannot do so and has to depend +entirely on grazing for a living its life becomes precarious and is apt +to be sacrificed in the "struggle for the survival of the fittest." + +If it survives the ordeal and lives it bears the same relation to the +herd as the maverick and has no lawful owner until it is branded. If +an unbranded calf has left or lost its mother it has lost its identity +as well and finds it again only after being branded, although it may +have swapped owners in the process. Theoretically, a maverick belongs +to the owner of the range on which it runs, but, practically, it +becomes the property of the man who first finds and brands it. + +Although the branding is supposed to be done only during a round-up +there is nevertheless some branding done in every month of the year. +The ranchman is compelled to do so to save his calves from being +stolen. Therefore early branding is generally practiced as it has been +found to be the best safeguard against theft. Either the spring or +fall is considered a good time to brand, but the only best time to +brand a calf is when you find it. + +Dishonest men are found in the cattle business the same as in other +occupations and every year a large number of cattle are misappropriated +and stolen from the range. Cattle have been stolen by the wholesale +and large herds run off and illegally sold before the owner discovered +his loss. Calf stealing, however, happens more frequently than the +stealing of grown cattle and many ingenious devices have been invented +to make such stealing a success. A common practice is to "sleeper" a +calf by a partial earmark and a shallow brand that only singes the hair +but does not burn deep enough to leave a permanent scar. If the calf +is not discovered as an imperfect or irregular brand and becomes a +maverick, it is kept under surveillance by the thief until he considers +it safe to finish the job when he catches it again and brands it with +his own iron. + +Different methods are employed to win a calf and fit it for unlawful +branding. Sometimes the calf is caught and staked out in some secluded +spot where it is not liable to be found and away from its mother until +it is nearly starved when it is branded by the thief and turned loose; +or, the calf's tongue is split so that it cannot suck and by the time +that the wounded tongue has healed the calf has lost its mother, and +the thief brands it for himself. Again, the mother cow is shot and +killed, when the orphan calf is branded in perfect safety as "the dead +tell no tales." + +The owner of cattle on the open range must be constantly on his guard +against losses by theft. Usually the thief is a dishonest neighbor or +one of his own cowboys who becomes thrifty at his employer's expense. +Many a herd of cattle was begun without a single cow, but was started +by branding surreptitiously other people's property. It is not an easy +matter to detect such a thief or to convict on evidence when he is +arrested and brought to trial. A cattle thief seldom works alone, but +associates himself with others of his kind who will perjure themselves +to swear each other clear. + +The cow ponies that are used in range work are small but active and +possessed of great power of endurance. They are the descendants of the +horses that were brought into Mexico by the Spaniards, some of which +escaped into the wilderness and their increase became the wild horses +of the plains. They are known by the various names of mustang, bronco +and cayuse according to the local vernacular of the country in which +they roam. They are wild and hard to conquer and are sometimes never +fully broken even under the severest treatment. Bucking and pitching +are their peculiar tricks for throwing a rider and such an experience +invariably ends in discomfort if not discomfiture, for if the rider is +not unhorsed he at least receives a severe shaking up in the saddle. + +The native cattle, like the horses, are small and wild, but are hardy +and make good rustlers. The native stock has been greatly improved in +recent years by cross breeding with thoroughbred Durham and Hereford +bulls. Grade cattle are better suited for the open range than are pure +bred animals, which are more tender and fare better in fenced pastures. +By cross breeding the quality of range cattle has steadily improved +until the scrub element has been almost bred out. + +As a breeding ground Arizona is unsurpassed, but for maturing beef +cattle the northern country is preferable. Thousands of young cattle +are shipped out annually to stock the ranges of Wyoming and Montana and +to fill the feed lots of Kansas, Missouri and other feeding states. A +dash of native blood in range cattle is desirable as it enables them to +endure hardships without injury and find subsistence in seasons of +drought and scant forage. + +The general round-up occurs in the fall, just after the summer rains, +when there is plenty of grass and the horses and cattle are in good +condition. The ranchmen of a neighborhood meet at an appointed time +and place and organize for systematic work. A captain is chosen who is +in command of the round-up and must be obeyed. Each cowboy has his own +string of horses, but all of the horses of the round-up not in use are +turned out to graze and herd together. A mess wagon and team of horses +in charge of a driver, who is also the cook, hauls the outfit of pots, +provisions and bedding. + + The round-up moves from ranch to ranch rounding up and marking +the cattle as it goes and is out from four to six weeks, according to +the number of ranches that are included in the circuit. + +When camp is made and everything ready for work the cowboys ride out in +different directions and drive in all the cattle they can find. After +the cattle are all gathered the calves are branded and the cattle of +the several owners are cut into separate herds and held until the +round-up is finished when they are driven home. + +Every unbranded calf is caught and branded in its mother's brand. In a +mix-up of cattle as occurs at a round-up, a calf sometimes gets +separated from its mother so that when caught its identity is +uncertain. To avoid making a mistake the calf is only slightly marked, +just enough to hurt it a little, and is then turned loose. A calf when +it is hurt is very much like a child, in that it cries and wants its +mamma. As quick as it is let go it immediately hunts its mother and +never fails to find her. When cow and calf have come together the calf +is again caught and the branding finished. + +The pain produced by the hot branding iron makes the calf bawl lustily +and struggle to free itself. The mother cow sometimes resents the +punishment of her offspring by charging and chasing the men who are +doing the branding; or, if she is of a less fiery disposition, shows +her displeasure by a look of reproach as much as to say, "You bad men, +what have you done to hurt my little darling?" + +A peculiarity of brands is that they do not all grow alike. Sometimes +a brand, after it is healed, remains unchanged during the life of the +animal. At other times it enlarges to several times its original size. +Various reasons are assigned to account for this difference. Some +claim that the brand only grows with the calf; others assert that it is +due to deep branding; and, again, it is ascribed to lunar influence. +But, as to the real cause of the difference, no explanation has been +given that really explains the phenomenon. + +The cowboy's work is nearly all done in the saddle and calls for much +hard riding. He rides like a Centaur, but is clumsy on his feet. +Being so much in the saddle his walking muscles become weakened, and +his legs pressing against the body of his horse, in time, makes him +bowlegged. In addition he wears high-heeled Mexican boots which throw +him on his toes when he walks and makes his already shambling gait even +more awkward. + +A cowboy's life has little in it to inspire him with high ideals or +arouse his ambition to achieve greatness. He leads a hard life among +rough men and receives only coarse fare and rougher treatment. His +life is narrow and he works in a rut that prevents him from taking a +broad view of life. All that he has is his monthly wages, and, +possibly, a hope that at some future day he may have a herd of cattle +of his own. + +Managing a herd of range cattle successfully is an art that can only be +acquired by long practice, and it is surprising how expert men can +become at that business. All the work done among cattle is on +horseback, which includes herding, driving, cutting and roping. The +trained cow pony seemingly knows as much about a round-up as his +master, and the two, together, form a combination that is invincible in +a herd of wild cattle. The cow or steer that is selected to be roped +or cut out rarely escapes. While the horse is in hot pursuit the rider +dexterously whirls his reata above his head until, at a favorable +moment, it leaves his hand, uncoiling as it flies through the air, and, +if the throw is successful, the noose falls over the animal's head. +Suddenly the horse comes to a full stop and braces himself for the +shock. When the animal caught reaches the end of the rope it is +brought to an abrupt halt and tumbled in a heap on the ground. The +horse stands braced pulling on the rope which has been made fast to the +horn of the saddle by a few skillful turns. The cowboy is out of the +saddle and on his feet in a jiffy. He grasps the prostrate animal by +the tail and a hind leg, throws it on its side, and ties its four feet +together, so that it is helpless and ready for branding or inspection. +The cowboys have tying contests in which a steer is sometimes caught +and tied in less time than a minute. + +It is a comical sight to see an unhorsed cowboy chase his runaway horse +on foot as he is almost sure to do if caught in such a predicament. He +ought to know that he cannot outrun his fleet steed in such a race, but +seems to be impelled by some strange impulse to make the attempt. +After he has run himself out of breath he is liable to realize the +folly of his zeal and adopt a more sensible method for capturing his +horse. + +The cowboy who works on the southwestern range has good cause to fear +the malodorous hydrophobia skunk. At a round-up all of the cowboys +sleep on the ground. During the night, while they are asleep, the +little black and white cat-like animal forages through the camp for +something to eat. Without provocation the skunk will attack the +sleeper and fasten its sharp teeth in some exposed portion of his +anatomy, either the nose or a finger or toe and will not let go until +it is killed or forcibly removed. The wound thus made usually heals +quickly and the incident is, perhaps, soon forgotten; but after several +weeks or months hydrophobia suddenly develops and proves fatal in a +short time. + +The only known cure for the bite of the skunk is the Pasteur treatment +and, since its discovery, as soon as anyone is bitten, he is +immediately sent to the Pasteur Institute in Chicago for treatment. + + + +CHAPTER VI + +RANCH HAPPENINGS + +Ranch life is often full of thrilling incidents and adventures. The +cowboy in his travels about the country looking after cattle, hunting +wild game or, in turn, being hunted by yet wilder Indians, finds plenty +of novelty and excitement to break any fancied monotony which might be +considered as belonging to ranch life. In a number of visits to the +range country during the past twenty years, the writer has had an +opportunity to observe life on a ranch, and experience some of its +exciting adventures. + +One day in the summer of 1891, Dave Drew, our foreman, Tedrow, one of +the cowboys, and myself, made a trip into East Canon in the Dos Cabezas +mountains, in search of some large unbranded calves which had been seen +running there. We rode leisurely along for some time and passed +several small bunches of cattle without finding what we were looking +for. As we neared a bend in the canon, Dave, who rode in advance, saw +some cattle lying in the shade of a grove of live oak trees. Instantly +he spurred his horse into a run and chased after the cattle at full +speed, at the same time looking back and shouting that he saw two +mavericks and for us to hurry up and help catch them. It was a bad +piece of ground to cover and we found it difficult to make progress or +to even keep each other in sight. Tedrow hurried up as fast as he +could while I brought up the rear. + +In trying to get through in the direction that Dave had gone, we tried +to make a short cut in order to gain time, but soon found our way +completely blocked by immense boulders and dense thickets of cat-claw +bushes, which is a variety of mesquite covered with strong, sharp, +curved thorns. We turned back to find a better road and after some +time spent in hunting an opening we discovered a dim trail which soon +led us into a natural park of level ground hidden among the foothills. +Here we found Dave who alone had caught and tied down both the calves +and was preparing to start a fire to heat the branding irons. What he +had done seemed like magic and was entirely incomprehensible to an +inexperienced tenderfoot. + +Dave explained afterwards that to be successful in such a race much +depended on taking the cattle by surprise, and then by a quick, bold +dash start them running up the mountain, when it was possible to +overtake and rope them; but if once started to running down hill it was +not only unsafe to follow on horseback but in any event the cattle were +certain to escape. Taking them by surprise seemed to bewilder them and +before they could collect their scattered senses, so to speak, and +scamper off, the work of capture was done. + +Another adventure, which did not end so fortunately for met happened in +the fall of I 887 when the country was yet comparatively new to the +cattle business. I rode out one day in company with a cowboy to look +after strays and, incidentally, to watch for any game that might chance +to cross our path. We rode through seemingly endless meadows of fine +gramma grass and saw the sleek cattle feeding on plenty and enjoying +perfect contentment. Game, also, seemed to be abundant but very shy +and as we were not particularly hunting that kind of stock, we forebore +giving chase or firing at long range. + +After riding about among the hills back of the Pinaleno ranch and not +finding anything we concluded to return home. On starting back we +separated and took different routes, going by two parallel ravines in +order to cover more ground in our search. I had not gone far until I +found the cattle we were looking for going to water on the home trail. +Jogging on slowly after them and enjoying the beauty of the landscape, +I unexpectedly caught a glimpse of a deer lying down under a mesquite +tree on the brow of a distant hill. I was in plain sight of the deer, +which was either asleep or heedless of danger as it paid no attention +whatever to my presence. + +Deer and antelope soon become accustomed to horses and cattle and often +mix and feed familiarly with the stock grazing on the open range. The +deer did not change its position as I quietly rode by and out of sight +behind the hill. There I dismounted and stalked the quarry on foot, +cautiously making my way up the side of the hill to a point where I +would be within easy shooting distance. As I stood up to locate the +deer it jumped to its feet and was ready to make off, but before it +could start a shot from my Winchester put a bullet through its head, +and it scarcely moved after it fell. The deer was in good condition +and replenished our depleted ranch larder with some choice venison +steaks. The head, also, was a fine one the horns being just out of +velvet and each antler five pointed, was saved and mounted. + +The shot and my lusty halloo soon brought my cowboy friend to the spot. +Together we eviscerated the animal and prepared to pack it to camp on +my horse. As we were lifting it upon his back the bronco gave a +vicious kick which hit me in the left knee and knocked me down. The +blow, though severe, glanced off so that no bone was broken. What made +the horse kick was a mystery as he was considered safe and had carried +deer on other occasions. But a bronco, like a mule, is never +altogether reliable, particularly as to the action of its heels. With +some delay in getting started and in somewhat of a demoralized +condition we mounted and rode home. + +Soon after the accident I had a chill which was followed by a fever and +there was much pain and swelling in the knee that was hit. A ranch +house, if it happens to be a "stag camp" as ours was, is a cheerless +place in which to be sick, but everything considered, I was fortunate +in that it was not worse. By the liberal use of hot water and such +other simples as the place afforded I was soon better; but not until +after several months' treatment at home did the injured knee fully +recover its normal condition. + +The excitement of running cattle or hunting game on the open range in +those days was mild in comparison to the panicky feeling which +prevailed during every Indian outbreak. The experience of many years +had taught the people of Arizona what to expect at such a time and the +utter diabolical wickedness of the Apaches when out on the warpath. +During the early eighties many such raids occurred which were +accompanied by all the usual horrors of brutality and outrage of which +the Apaches are capable. + +When it became known in the fall of 1885 that Geronimo was again off +the reservation and out on another one of his bloody raids the people +became panic-stricken. Some left the Territory until such time when +the Indian question would be settled and the Government could guarantee +freedom from Indian depredations. Those who remained either fled to +some near town or fort for protection, or prepared to defend themselves +in their own homes as best they could. + +What else could the settlers in a new country do? They had everything +invested in either mines or cattle and could not afford to leave their +property without making some effort to save it even if it had to be +done at the risk of their own lives. They had no means of knowing when +or where the stealthy Apaches would strike and could only wait for the +time in uncertainty and suspense. Many who were in this uncomfortable +predicament managed to escape any harm, but others fell victims to +savage hatred whose death knell was sounded in the crack of the deadly +rifle. + +Some personal experiences may help to illustrate this feeling of panic, +as I happened to be at the ranch during the time and know how it was +myself. + +One day in the month of October, 1885, while Geronimo was making his +raid through southern Arizona, my brother and I rode through Railroad +Pass from Pinaleno ranch to the Lorentz Place, a distance of fifteen +miles. It was about four o'clock in the afternoon that we ascended to +the top of a hill to take observations and see if anything was +happening out of the ordinary. We saw nothing unusual until we were +about to leave when we noticed somewhat of a commotion on the old +Willcox and Bowie wagon road which parallels the Southern Pacific +track. The distance was too great to see distinctly with the naked +eye, but looking through our field glasses, which we always carried +when out riding, we could plainly see three loaded wagons standing in +the road. The drivers had evidently unhitched their teams and, mounted +upon the horses' backs, were riding furiously in a cloud of dust down +the road towards Bowie. + +I asked the judge, who was a resident and supposed to be familiar with +the customs of the country while I was only a tenderfoot, what their +actions meant. He admitted that he did not understand their conduct +unless it was that they had concluded that they could not make Willcox +on that day and were returning to some favorable camp ground which they +had passed on their way up, to spend the night; but the manner of their +going was certainly peculiar. After watching them disappear down the +road we rode on and reached our destination in safety. + +The incident was forgotten until a few days later when we were in +Willcox a friend inquired what had become of the Indians which had +lately been seen on our range. We replied that we had not seen any +Indians nor known of any that had been there. He then related to us +how only a few days before three freighters had seen two Indians ride +upon a hill and halt. The sight of Indians was enough and their only +care after that was to get away from them. They quickly unhitched +their horses from the wagons and rode ten miles to Bowie where they +gave the alarm and spent the night. The next morning, having heard +nothing more from the Indians during the night, they took fresh courage +and ventured to return to their wagons, which they found as they had +left them unmolested, when they continued their journey. + When the freighters were asked why they did not stand off the +Indians they said that they only had one gun and not knowing how many +more redskins there might be decided that to retreat was the better +part of valor. It was my brother and I whom they had seen and mistaken +for Indians. + +A few days after this event I had a similar scare of my own and after +it was over I could sympathize with the poor, frightened freighters. I +was alone at the ranch house packing up and preparing to leave for +home. While thus occupied I chanced to go to the open door and looking +out, to my dismay, I saw Indians. "My heart jumped into my mouth" and +for a moment I felt that my time had surely come. Two men were seen +riding horseback over the foot hills followed by a pack animal. As I +stood watching them and took time to think, it occurred to me that I +might be mistaken, and that the men were not Indians after all. As +they drew nearer I saw that they were dressed like white men and, +therefore, could not be Indians; but my scare while it lasted was +painfully real. The men proved to be two neighboring ranchmen who were +out looking for lost cattle. + +In this raid, the Apaches, after leaving their reservation in the White +mountains, traveled south along the Arizona and New Mexico line, +killing people as they went, until they reached Stein's Pass. From +there they turned west, crossed the San Simon valley and disappeared in +the Chiricahua mountains. When next seen they had crossed over the +mountains and attacked Riggs' ranch in Pinery canon, where they wounded +a woman, but were driven off. + +The next place that they visited was the Sulphur Spring ranch of the +Chiricahua Cattle Company, where they stole a bunch of horses. The +cowboys at the ranch had received warning that there were Indians about +and had brought in the horse herd from the range and locked them in the +corral. The Apaches came in the night and with their usual adroitness +and cunning stole the corral empty. The first intimation which the +inmates had that the ranch had been robbed was when the cowboys went in +the morning to get their horses they found them gone. + +From the Sulphur Spring ranch they crossed the Sulphur Spring valley in +the direction of Cochise's stronghold in the Dragoon mountains. Before +reaching the mountains they passed Mike Noonan's ranch where they shot +its owner, who was a lone rancher and had lived alone in the valley +many years. He was found dead in his door yard with a bullet hole in +the back of his head. He evidently did not know that the Indians were +near and was seemingly unconscious of any danger when he was killed. + +The Indians were not seen again after entering the stronghold until +they crossed the line into Mexico, where they were pursued by United +States soldiers. After a long, stern chase Geronimo surrendered +himself and followers to General Miles, who brought them back to +Arizona. As prisoners they were all loaded into cars at Bowie and +taken to Florida. The general in command thought it best to take them +clear out of the country in order to put an effectual stop to their +marauding. Later they were removed to the Indian Territory where they +now live. + +The rest of the Apaches remain in Arizona and live on the San Carlos +reservation on the Gila river where they are being inducted into +civilization. Since the disturbing element among them has been removed +there has been no more trouble. They seem to have settled down with a +sincere purpose to learn the white man's way and are quiet and +peaceable. They are laborers, farmers and stockmen and are making +rapid progress in their new life. + + + +CHAPTER VII + +A MODEL RANCH + +Any one who has been in Arizona and failed to visit the Sierra Bonita +ranch missed seeing a model ranch. Henry C. Hooker, the owner of this +splendid property, was born in New England and is a typical Yankee, who +early emigrated west and has spent most of his life on the frontier. + +He went to Arizona at the close of the Civil War and engaged in +contracting for the Government and furnishing supplies to the army. It +was before the days of railroads when all merchandise was hauled +overland in wagons and cattle were driven through on foot. He +outfitted at points in Texas and on the Rio Grande and drove his cattle +and wagons over hundreds of miles of desert road through a country that +was infested by hostile Indians. + +Such a wild life was naturally full of adventures and involved much +hardship and danger. The venture, however, prospered and proved a +financial success, notwithstanding some losses in men killed, wagons +pillaged and cattle driven off and lost by bands of marauding Apaches. + +In his travels he saw the advantages that Arizona offered as a grazing +country, which decided him to locate a ranch and engage in the range +cattle business. + +The ranch derives its name from the Graham or Pinaleno mountains which +the Indians called the Sierra Bonita because of the many beautiful wild +flowers that grow there. It is twenty miles north of Willcox, a +thriving village on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and ten miles south +of Ft. Grant, that nestles in a grove of cotton trees at the foot of +Mt. Graham, the noblest mountain in southern Arizona. + +The Sierra Bonita ranch is situated in the famous Sulphur Spring valley +in Cochise County, Arizona, which is, perhaps, the only all grass +valley in the Territory. The valley is about twenty miles wide and +more than one hundred miles long and extends into Mexico. Its waters +drain in opposite directions, part flowing south into the Yaqui river, +and part running north through the Aravaipa Canon into the Gila and +Colorado rivers, all to meet and mingle again in the Gulf of California. + +Fine gramma grass covers the entire valley and an underground river +furnishes an inexhaustible supply of good water. In the early days of +overland travel before the country was protected or any of its +resources were known, immigrants, who were bound for California by the +Southern route and ignorant of the near presence of water, nearly +perished from thirst while crossing the valley. + +The water rises to within a few feet of the surface and, since its +discovery, numerous wells have been dug and windmills and ranch houses +dot the landscape in all directions; while thousands of cattle feed and +fatten on the nutritious gramma grass. Its altitude is about four +thousand feet above the sea and the climate is exceptionally fine. + +The Sierra Bonita ranch is located on a natural cienega of moist land +that has been considerably enlarged by artificial means. In an average +year the natural water supply of the ranch is sufficient for all +purposes but, to guard against any possible shortage in a dry year, +water is brought from the mountains in ditches that have been +constructed at great labor and expense and is stored in reservoirs, to +be used as needed for watering the cattle and irrigating the fields. +The effect of water upon the desert soil is almost magical and even +though the rains fail and the earth be parched, on the moist land of +the cienega the fields of waving grass and grain are perennially green. + +The owner has acquired by location and purchase, title to several +thousand acres of land, that is all fenced and much of it highly +cultivated. It consists of a strip of land one mile wide and ten miles +long, which is doubly valuable because of its productiveness and as the +key that controls a fine open range. + +The original herd of cattle that pastured on the Sierra Bonita ranch +thirty years ago was composed of native scrub stock from Texas and +Sonora. This undesirable stock was sold at the first opportunity, and +the range re-stocked by an improved grade of Durham cattle. The change +was a long stride in the direction of improvement, but, later on, +another change was made to Herefords, and during recent years only +whitefaces have been bred upon the ranch. + +Col. Hooker has a strong personality, holds decided opinions and +believes in progress and improvement. He has spent much time and money +in experimental work, and his success has demonstrated the wisdom of +his course. Just such men are needed in every new country to develop +its resources and prove its worth. + +He saw that the primitive methods of ranching then in vogue must be +improved, and began to prepare for the change which was coming. What +he predicted came to pass, and the days of large herds on the open +range are numbered. + +Many of them have already been sold or divided up, and it is a question +Of only a short time when the rest will meet the same fate. + +When this is done there may be no fewer cattle than there are now but +they will be bunched in smaller herds and better cared for. Scrubs of +any kind are always undesirable, since it has been proved that quality +is more profitable than quantity. A small herd is more easily handled, +and there is less danger of loss from straying or stealing. + +The common method of running cattle on the open range is reckless and +wasteful in the extreme and entirely inexcusable. The cattle are +simply turned loose to rustle for themselves. No provision whatever is +made for their welfare, except that they are given the freedom of the +range to find water, if they can, and grass that often affords them +only scant picking. + +Under the new regime the cattle are carefully fed and watered, if need +be in a fenced enclosure, that not only gives the cattle humane +treatment but also makes money for the owner. The men are instructed +to bring in every sick or weak animal found on the range and put it +into a corral or pasture, where it is nursed back to life. If an +orphan calf is found that is in danger of starving it is picked up, +carried home and fed. On the average ranch foundlings and weaklings +get no attention whatever, but are left in their misery to pine away +and perish from neglect. The profit of caring for the weak and sick +animals on the Sierra Bonita ranch amounts to a large sum every year, +which the owner thinks is worth saving. + +Another peculiarity of ranch life is that where there are hundreds or, +perhaps, thousands of cows in a herd, not a single cow is milked, nor +is a cup of milk or pound of butter ever seen upon the ranch table. It +is altogether different on Hooker's ranch. There is a separate herd of +milch cows in charge of a man whose duty it is to keep the table +supplied with plenty of fresh milk and butter. No milk ever goes to +waste. If there is a surplus it is fed to the calves, pigs and poultry. + +During the branding season the work of the round-up is all done in +corrals instead of, as formerly, out upon the open range. Each calf +after it is branded, if it is old and strong enough to wean, is taken +from the cow and turned into a separate pasture. It prevents the weak +mother cow from being dragged to death by a strong sucking calf and +saves the pampered calf from dying of blackleg by a timely change of +diet. + +Instead of classing the cattle out on the open range as is the usual +custom, by an original system of corrals, gates and chutes the cattle +are much more easily and quickly classified without any cruelty or +injury inflicted upon either man or beast. Classing cattle at a +round-up by the old method is a hard and often cruel process, that +requires a small army of both men and horses and is always rough and +severe on the men, horses and cattle. + +Besides the herds of sleek cattle, there are also horses galore, enough +to do all of the work on the ranch as well as for pleasure riding and +driving. There is likewise a kennel of fine greyhounds that are the +Colonel's special pride. His cattle, horses and dogs are all of the +best, as he believes in thoroughbreds and has no use whatever for +scrubs of either the human or brute kind. + +The dogs are fond of their master and lavish their caresses on him with +almost human affection. In the morning when they meet him at the door +Ketchum pokes his nose into one of his master's half open hands and +Killum performs the same act with the other hand. Blackie nips him +playfully on the leg while Dash and the rest of the pack race about +like mad, trying to express the exuberance of their joy. + +In the bunch is little Bob, the fox terrier, who tries hard but is not +always able to keep up with the hounds in a race. He is active and +gets over the ground lively for a small dog, but in a long chase is +completely distanced and outclassed to his apparent disgust. Aside +from the fine sport that the dogs afford, they are useful in keeping +the place clear of all kinds of "varmints" such as coyotes, skunks and +wild cats. + +How much Col. Hooker appreciates his dogs is best illustrated by an +incident. One morning after greeting the dogs at the door, he was +heard to remark sotto voce. + +"Well, if everybody on the ranch is cross, my dogs always greet me with +a smile." + +There appears to be much in the dog as well as in the horse that is +human, and the trio are capable of forming attachments for each other +that only death can part. + +The ranch house is a one-story adobe structure built in the Spanish +style of a rectangle, with all the doors opening upon a central court. +It is large and commodious, is elegantly furnished and supplied with +every modern convenience. It affords every needed comfort for a family +and is in striking contrast with the common ranch house of the range +that is minus every luxury and often barely furnishes the necessaries +of life. + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +SOME DESERT PLANTS + +Much of the vegetation that is indigenous to the southwest is unique +and can only be seen at its best in the Gila valley in southern +Arizona. The locality indicated is in the arid zone and is extremely +hot and dry. Under such conditions it is but natural to suppose that +all plant life must necessarily be scant and dwarfed, but such is not +the fact. Upon the contrary many of the plants that are native to the +soil and adapted to the climate grow luxuriantly, are remarkably +succulent and perennially green. + +How they manage to acquire so much sap amidst the surrounding siccity +is inexplicable, unless it is that they possess the function of +absorbing and condensing moisture by an unusual and unknown method. It +is, however, a beneficent provision of nature as a protection against +famine in a droughty land by furnishing in an acceptable form, +refreshing juice and nutritious pulp to supply the pressing wants of +hungry and thirsty man and beast in time of need. + +Another peculiarity of these plants is that they are acanaceous; +covered all over with sharp thorns and needles. Spikes of all sorts +and sizes bristle everywhere and admonish the tenderfoot to beware. +Guarded by an impenetrable armor of prickly mail they defy encroachment +and successfully repel all attempts at undue familiarity. To be torn +by a cat-claw thorn or impaled on a stout dagger leaf of one of these +plants would not only mean painful laceration but, perhaps, serious or +even fatal injury. Notwithstanding their formidable and forbidding +appearance they are nevertheless attractive and possess some value +either medicinal, commercial or ornamental. + +The maguey, or American aloe, is the most abundant and widely +distributed of the native plants. It is commonly known as mescal, but +is also called the century plant from a mistaken notion that it +blossoms only once in a hundred years. Its average life, under normal +conditions, is about ten years and it dies immediately after blossoming. + +It attains its greatest perfection in the interior of Mexico where it +is extensively cultivated. It yields a large quantity of sap which is, +by a simple process of fermentation, converted into a liquor called +pulque that tastes best while it is new and is consumed in large +quantities by the populace. Pulque trains are run daily from the +mescal plantations, where the pulque is made, into the large cities to +supply the bibulous inhabitants with their customary beverage. In +strength and effect it resembles lager beer, and is the popular drink +with all classes throughout Mexico where it has been in vogue for +centuries and is esteemed as "the only drink fit for thirsty angels and +men." + +The agave is capable of being applied to many domestic uses. Under the +old dispensation of Indian supremacy it supplied the natives their +principal means of support. Its sap was variously prepared and served +as milk, honey, vinegar, beer and brandy. From its tough fiber were +made thread, rope, cloth, shoes and paper. The strong flower stalk was +used in building houses and the broad leaves for covering them. + +The heart of the maguey is saccharine and rich in nutriment. It is +prepared by roasting it in a mescal pit and, when done, tastes much +like baked squash. It is highly prized by the Indians, who use it as +their daily bread. Before the Apaches were conquered and herded on +reservations a mescal bake was an important event with them. It meant +the gathering of the clans and was made the occasion of much feasting +and festivity. Old mescal pits can yet be found in some of the +secluded corners of the Apache country that were once the scenes of +noisy activity, but have been forsaken and silent for many years. + +The fiery mescal, a distilled liquor that is known to the trade as +aguardiente, or Mexican brandy, is much stronger than pulque, but less +used. Both liquors are said to be medicinal, and are reputed to +possess diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties. + +Next in importance to the mescal comes the yucca. There are several +varieties, but the palm yucca is the most common, and under favorable +conditions attains to the proportions of a tree. Fine specimens of +yucca grow on the Mojave desert in California that are large and +numerous enough to form a straggling forest. + +The tree consists of a light, spongy wood that grows as a single stem +or divides into two or more branches. Each branch is crowned by a tuft +of long, pointed leaves that grow in concentric circles. As the new +leaves unfold on top the old leaves are crowded down and hang in loose +folds about the stem like a flounced skirt. When dry the leaves burn +readily, and are sometimes used for light and heat by lost or belated +travelers. White threads of a finer fiber are detached from the +margins of the leaves that are blown by the wind into a fluffy fleece, +in which the little birds love to nest. + +A grove of yucca trees presents a grotesque appearance. If +indistinctly viewed in the hazy distance they are easily mistaken for +the plumed topknots of a band of prowling Apaches, particularly if the +imagination is active with the fear of an Indian outbreak. + +The wood of the yucca tree has a commercial value. It is cut into thin +sheets by machinery which are used for surgeon's splints, hygienic +insoles, tree protectors and calendars. As a splint it answers an +admirable purpose, being both light and strong and capable of being +molded into any shape desired after it has been immersed in hot water. +Its pulp, also, makes an excellent paper. + +Another variety of yucca is the amole, or soap plant. Owing to the +peculiar shape of its leaves it is also called Spanish bayonet. Its +root is saponaceous, and is pounded into a pulp and used instead of +soap by the natives. It grows a bunch of large white flowers, and +matures an edible fruit that resembles the banana. The Indians call it +oosa, and eat it, either raw or roasted in hot ashes. + +A species of yucca called sotal, or saw-grass, grows plentifully in +places, and is sometimes used as food for cattle when grass is scarce. +In its natural state it is inaccessible to cattle because of its hard +and thorny exterior. To make it available it is cut down and quartered +with a hoe, when the hungry cattle eat it with avidity. Where the +plant grows thickly one man can cut enough in one day to feed several +hundred head of cattle. + +There are several other varieties of yucca that possess no particular +value, but all are handsome bloomers, and the mass of white flowers +which unfold during the season of efflorescence adds much to the beauty +of the landscape. + +The prickly pear cactus, or Indian fig, of the genus Opuntia is a +common as well as a numerous family. The soil and climate of the +southwest from Texas to California seem to be just to its liking. It +grows rank and often forms dense thickets. The root is a tough wood +from which, it is said, the best Mexican saddletrees are made. + +The plant consists of an aggregation of thick, flat, oval leaves, which +are joined together by narrow bands of woody fiber and covered with +bundles of fine, sharp needles. Its pulp is nutritious and cattle like +the young leaves, but will not eat them after they become old and hard +unless driven to do so by the pangs of hunger. In Texas the plant is +gathered in large quantities and ground into a fine pulp by machinery +which is then mixed with cotton-seed meal and fed to cattle. The +mixture makes a valuable fattening ration and is used for finishing +beef steers for the market. + +The cholla, or cane cactus, is also a species of Opuntia, but its stem +or leaf is long and round instead of short and flat. It is thickly +covered with long, fine, silvery-white needles that glisten in the sun. +Its stem is hollow and filled with a white pith like the elder. After +the prickly bark is stripped off the punk can be picked out through the +fenestra with a penknife, which occupation affords pleasant pastime for +a leisure hour. When thus furbished up the unsightly club becomes an +elegant walking stick. + +The cholla is not a pleasant companion as all persons know who have had +any experience with it. Its needles are not only very sharp, but also +finely barbed, and they penetrate and cling fast like a burr the moment +that they are touched. Cowboys profess to believe that the plant has +some kind of sense as they say that it jumps and takes hold of its +victim before it is touched. This action, however, is only true in the +seeming, as its long transparent needles, being invisible, are touched +before they are seen. When they catch hold of a moving object, be it +horse or cowboy, an impulse is imparted to the plant that makes it seem +to jump. It is an uncanny movement and is something more than an +ocular illusion, as the victim is ready to testify. + +These desert plants do not ordinarily furnish forage for live stock, +but in a season of drought when other feed is scarce and cattle are +starving they will risk having their mouths pricked by thorns in order +to get something to eat and will browse on mescal, yucca and cactus and +find some nourishment in the unusual diet, enough, at least, to keep +them from dying. The plants mentioned are not nearly as plentiful now +as they once were. Because of the prolonged droughts that prevail in +the range country and the overstocking of the range these plants are in +danger of being exterminated and, if the conditions do not soon change, +of becoming extinct. + +The saguaro, or giant cactus, is one of nature's rare and curious +productions. It is a large, round, fluted column that is from one to +two feet thick and sometimes sixty feet high. The trunk is nearly of +an even thickness from top to bottom but, if there is any difference, +it is a trifle thicker in the middle. It usually stands alone as a +single perpendicular column, but is also found bunched in groups. If +it has any branches they are apt to start at right angles from about +the middle of the tree and curve upward, paralleling the trunk, which +form gives it the appearance of a mammoth candelabrum. + +The single saguaro pillar bears a striking resemblance to a Corinthian +column. As everything in art is an attempt to imitate something in +nature, is it possible that Grecian architecture borrowed its notable +pattern from the Gila valley? + +Southern Arizona is the natural home and exclusive habitat of this most +singular and interesting plant and is, perhaps, the only thing growing +anywhere that could have suggested the design. Wherever it grows, it +is a conspicuous object on the landscape and has been appropriately +named "The Sentinel of the Desert." + +Its mammoth body is supported by a skeleton of wooden ribs, which are +held in position by a mesh of tough fibers that is filled with a green +pulp. Rows of thorns extend its entire length which are resinous and, +if ignited, burn with a bright flame. They are sometimes set on fire +and have been used by the Apaches for making signals. The cactus tree, +like the eastern forest tree, is often found bored full of round, holes +that are made by the Gila woodpecker. When the tree dies its pulp +dries up and blows away and there remains standing only a spectral +figure composed of white slats and fiber that looks ghostly in the +distance. + +Its fruit is delicious and has the flavor of the fig and strawberry +combined. It is dislodged by the greedy birds which feed on it and by +arrows shot from bows in the hands of the Indians. The natives esteem +the fruit as a great delicacy, and use it both fresh and dried and in +the form of a treacle or preserve. + +The ocotillo, or mountain cactus, is a handsome shrub that grows in +rocky soil upon the foothills and consists of a cluster of nearly +straight poles of brittle wood covered with thorns and leaves. It +blossoms during the early summer and each branch bears on its crest a +bunch of bright crimson flowers. + +If set in a row the plant makes an ornamental hedge and effective fence +for turning stock. The seemingly dry sticks are thrust into yet drier +ground where they take root and grow without water. Its bark is +resinous and a fagot of dry sticks makes a torch that is equal to a +pineknot. + +The echinocactus, or bisnaga, is also called "The Well of the Desert." +It has a large barrel-shaped body which is covered with long spikes +that are curved like fishhooks. It is full of sap that is sometimes +used to quench thirst. By cutting off the top and scooping out a +hollow, the cup-shaped hole soon fills with a sap that is not exactly +nectar but can be drunk in an emergency. Men who have been in danger +of perishing from thirst on the desert have sometimes been saved by +this unique method of well digging. + +Greasewood, or creasote bush as it is sometimes called on account of +its pungent odor, grows freely on the desert, but has little or no +value and cattle will not touch it. Like many other desert plants it +is resinous and if thrown into the fire, the green leaves spit and +sputter while they burn like hot grease in a frying pan. + +The mesquite tree is peculiarly adapted to the desert and is the most +valuable tree that grows in the southwest. As found growing on the dry +mesas of Arizona, it is only a small bush, but on the moist land of a +river bottom it becomes a large forest tree. A mesquite forest stands +in the Santa Cruz valley south of Tucson that is a fair sample of its +growth under favorable conditions. + +Its wood is hard and fine grained and polishes beautifully. It is very +durable and is valuable for lumber, fence posts and firewood. On the +dry mesas it seems to go mostly to root that is out of all proportion +to the size of the tree. The amount of firewood that is sometimes +obtained by digging up the root of a small mesquite bush is astonishing. + +It makes a handsome and ornamental shade tree, having graceful +branches, feathery leaves and fragrant flowers, and could be cultivated +to advantage for yard and park purposes. + +Its principal value, however, lies in its seed pods, which grow in +clusters and look like string beans. The mesquite bean furnishes a +superior article of food and feeds about everything that either walks +or flies on the desert. The Indians make meal of the seed and bake it +into bread. Cattle that feed on the open range will leave good grass +to browse on a mesquite bush. Even as carnivorous a creature as the +coyote will make a full meal on a mess of mesquite beans and seem to be +satisfied. The tree exudes a gum that is equal to the gum arabic of +commerce. + +The palo verde is a tree without leaves and is a true child of the +desert. No matter how hot and dry the weather the palo verde is always +green and flourishing. At a distance it resembles a weeping willow +tree stripped of its leaves. Its numerous long, slender, drooping +branches gracefully criss-cross and interlace in an intricate figure of +filigree work. It has no commercial value, but if it could be +successfully transplanted and transported it would make a desirable +addition to green-house collections in the higher latitudes. + +The romantic mistletoe that is world renowned for its magic influence +in love affairs, grows to perfection in southern Arizona. There are +several varieties of this parasitic plant that are very unlike in +appearance. Each kind partakes more or less of the characteristics of +the tree upon which it grows, but all have the glossy leaf and waxen +berry. + + + +CHAPTER IX + +HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS + +Arizona has several hot springs within her borders but, perhaps, none +are more valuable nor picturesquely located than Hooker's hot springs. +These springs are located in the foothills on the western slope of the +Galiura mountains in southeastern Arizona, thirty-five miles west of +Willcox on the Southern Pacific Railroad. The spot is beautifully +situated, commanding an extended view of valley and mountain scenery. + +There are a dozen springs, big and little, in the group and are +scattered over several acres of hillside. The temperature of the water +is 130 degrees Fahrenheit and too hot to drink but, if sipped slowly, +it makes an admirable hot-water draught. The springs evidently have +their source deep down in the earth and the flow of water never varies. +When the water from the different springs is all united it forms a good +sized brook. The water is conducted through pipes into the bath house, +where it supplies a row of bath-tubs with water of any desired +temperature. The surplus water flows into a large earthern tank or +artificial lake and is used for irrigating a small farm that produces +grain, fruits and vegetables. + +The water from these springs is in great demand and is not only sought +by the human biped, but is also in favor with the equine quadruped. +Every morning after the stable doors are thrown open and the horses +turned loose they invariably, of their own accord, proceed to the lake, +wade out into shallow water and take a bath. They lie down and splash +the water about like a lot of schoolboys taking a swim. + +The water from all the springs is perfectly soft and pure. It cannot +be called a mineral water, as an analysis shows that it contains only a +trace of any kind of mineral matter. This peculiarity of the water is +no damage to the springs, since purity is the best recommendation that +any water can have. Water that is heavily mineralized may be +medicinal, but is not necessarily remedial, or even wholesome, +notwithstanding the popular belief to the contrary. Water that is +charged with much mineral is spoiled for drinking. Moderately hard +water need not be injurious to anybody, but is especially beneficial to +children. The assimilative function in the child appropriates mineral +water tardily and sometimes absorbs it altogether too slowly for the +child's good. Its absence in the system causes a disease called +rickets, in which, from all lack of lime, the bones of the child become +soft and yielding. The bones of a rickety child will bend rather than +break. It is slow to walk and inclines to become bow-legged. + +It is entirely different in old age. As the years multiply the system +absorbs an abnormal and ever increasing amount of calcareous matter. +The bones become unduly hard and brittle and are easily broken. Bony +matter is liable to be deposited in and about the joints, when they +become stiff and painful. It also lodges in the various soft tissues +of the body, and ossification of the valves of the heart and walls of +the arteries sometimes happens. It weakens the blood vessels so that +they easily rupture, which causes apoplexy, paralysis and death. +Calcareous concretions in the kidneys and bladder, also, come from the +same cause, and are called gravel. Such deposits are not only annoying +and painful to the patient, but in time may prove fatal if not removed +by surgery. + +Middle-aged and elderly people should never drink anything but soft +water. If a natural supply of soft water cannot be obtained distilled +water should be substituted. If neither natural soft water nor +distilled water are available, and there is doubt as to the purity of +the water that is being used, it should be boiled and then let stand to +cool and settle. Boiling not only destroys and renders harmless any +organic germs that may be present, but also precipitates and eliminates +much of its inorganic salts. + +A few drops of a weak solution of nitrate of silver added to a glass of +water will quickly determine its quality. If the water that is being +tested is free from mineral matter no change is produced, but if it +contains mineral it turns the water opaque or milky. + +The value of mineral water as a healthful or necessary drink has been +greatly exaggerated. While it may do good in some instances, it is not +nearly as beneficial as is commonly supposed. Instead of it always +doing good the contrary is often true. + +If a mineral water is desired there is no necessity of visiting a +mineral spring to obtain it, as it can be made artificially at home or +at the nearest pharmacy in any quantity or of any quality desired, with +the additional advantage of having it contain exactly the ingredients +wanted. There are nearly as many mineral waters on the market as there +are patent medicines, and both are about equally misrepresented and +deceiving. All classes of people would undoubtedly be greatly +benefited in health, strength and longevity if more attention was given +to the quality of our domestic water supply. Any one who needs a +change, other things being equal, should seek a resort that furnishes +pure, soft water rather than choose a spring that only boasts of its +mineral properties. Not all of the benefit that is derived from a +course at watering place is due to the virtues of the water, be it ever +so potent. The change of environment, climate, diet, bathing, etc., +are each factors that contribute something towards a cure. + +Next to using pure water as a beverage it is important to know how to +bathe properly, such knowledge being simple and plain enough if only +common sense is used. Usually the more simply a bath is administered +the better are the results. Some people seem to think that in order to +derive any benefit from a bath it is necessary to employ some unusual +or complicated process. Nothing is further from the truth. The plain, +tepid bath is the best for general use. It thoroughly cleanses the +body and produces no unpleasant shock. A hot bath is rarely needed +but, if it is used, enough time should be given after it to rest and +cool off before going out into the open air in order to avoid taking +cold. The good or harm of a bath must be judged by its effects. + +A bath is only beneficial when it is followed by a healthy reaction, +which is indicated by an agreeable feeling of warmth and comfort, and +is injurious if the subject feels cold, weak or depressed. A bath does +not affect all people alike; what will do one person good may injure +another. It is never wise to prescribe a stereotyped treatment for +every patient. The disease, temperament and constitution of each +individual must be taken into account and the temperature and frequency +of the bath must be determined and regulated by the necessity and +idiosyncrasies of each case. The amount of bathing that a strong, +full-blooded person could endure would mop out the life of a thin, +bloodless weakling. + +Locally, these springs have become famous because of the remarkable +cures they have effected, and are sought by many sick people who have +failed to find relief by other means. Before the white man came the +Indians used the water for curing their sick. The water is curative in +rheumatism, neuralgia, dyspepsia, blood and skin disorders and kidney +complaint. The water cure is all right even if it does not always +fulfill every expectation. + +Hooker's hot springs is a pleasant place to visit for people who are +not invalids. It is off the beaten path of travel and is an ideal spot +for the tired man who needs a rest. It has not yet been overrun by the +crowd, but retains all of the natural charm of freshness which the old +resorts have lost. Here nature riots in all of her wild beauty and has +not yet been perceptibly marred by the despoiling hand of man. + +Aside from the luxury of the baths which the place affords the visitor +can find a great deal to please him. The climate is healthful and the +weather pleasant during most of the year. In the near vicinity much +can be found in nature that is interesting. Never-failing mountain +streams, deep canons and dark forests wait to be visited and explored, +while curiosities in animal and vegetable life abound. Not far off is +a place here perfect geodes of chalcedony are found. + +Mining and ranching are the leading industries of the country and a +visit to some neighboring mine or cattle ranch is not without interest +to the novice. But, if he starts out on such a trip he must decide to +make a day of it, as the country is sparsely settled and the distances +long between camps. If the accommodations where he stops are not +always luxurious the welcome is cordial and the entertainment +comfortable. The new experience is also delightfully romantic. + + + +CHAPTER X + +CANON ECHOES + +The Colorado Plateau, in northern Arizona, is the union of the Rocky +and Sierra Nevada mountains in their southward trend, and forms the +southern rim of the Great Basin. This depression was once a vast +inland sea, of which nothing remains but the Salt Lake of Utah, and is +drained by the Colorado river. The entire plateau region is remarkable +for its grand scenery--abysmal chasms, sculptured buttes and towering +cliffs, which are "brightly colored as if painted by artist Gods, not +stained and daubed by inharmonious hues but beautiful as flowers and +gorgeous as the clouds." The plateau is an immense woodland of pines +known as the Coconino Forest. + +The San Francisco mountains, nearly thirteen thousand feet high, stand +in the middle of the plateau which is, also, the center of an extensive +extinct volcanic field. The whole country is covered with cinders +which were thrown from active volcanoes centuries ago. The track of +the Santa Fe Pacific railroad, clear across Arizona, is ballasted with +cinders instead of gravel that were dug from pits on its own right of +way. + +Near the southern base of the San Francisco mountains is the town of +Flagstaff built in a natural forest of pine trees. It is sometimes +called the Skylight City because of its high altitude, rarefied +atmosphere and brilliant sky. It is said to have been named by a +company of soldiers who camped on the spot while out hunting Indians, +when the country was new. It happened to be on the Fourth of July and +they celebrated the day by unfurling Old Glory from the top of a pine +tree, which was stripped of its branches and converted into a +flagstaff. Here is located the Lowell Observatory, which has made many +valuable discoveries in astronomy. It is a delightful spot and offers +many attractions to the scientist, tourist and health seeker. + +One of the many interesting objects of this locality is the Ice Cave +situated eight miles southwest of the town. It not only attracts the +curious, but its congealed stores are also drawn on by the people who +live in the vicinity when the domestic ice supply runs short. The cave +is entered from the side of a ravine and its opening is arched by lava +rock. How the ice ever got there is a mystery unless it is, as Mr. +Volz claims, glacial ice that was covered and preserved by a thick coat +of cinders which fell when the San Francisco Peaks were in active +eruption. As far as observed the ice never becomes more nor ever gets +less, except what is removed by mining. + +The region is unusually attractive to the naturalist. It is the best +field for the study of entomology that is known. But all nature riots +here. Dr. C. Hart Merriam, in his report of a biological survey of the +San Francisco mountains and Painted Desert, states that there are seven +distinct life zones in a radius of twenty-five miles running the entire +gamut from the Arctic to the Tropic.[1] The variety of life which he +found and describes cannot be duplicated in the same space anywhere +else upon the globe. + +But the greatest natural wonder of this region and, it is claimed by +competent judges of the whole world, is the Grand Canon of Arizona, +which is seventy-two miles north of Flagstaff. Thurber's stage line, +when it was running, carried passengers through in one day, but after +the railroad was built from Williams to Bright Angel the stage was +abandoned. However it is an interesting trip and many people make it +every summer by private conveyance who go for an outing and can travel +leisurely. It is a good natural road and runs nearly the entire +distance through an open pine forest. + +Two roads leave Flagstaff for the Canon called respectively the summer +and winter roads. The former goes west of the San Francisco mountains +and intersects with the winter road that runs east of the peaks at +Cedar Ranch, which was the midway station of the old stage line. The +summer road is the one usually travelled, as the winter road is almost +destitute of water. + +The road ascends rapidly from an elevation of seven thousand feet at +Flagstaff to eleven thousand feet at the summit, and descends more +gradually to Cedar Ranch, where the elevation is less than five +thousand feet and in distance is about halfway to the Canon. Here +cedar and pinon trees take the place of the taller pines. Cedar Ranch +is on an arm of the Painted Desert, which stretches away towards the +east over a wide level plain to the horizon. From this point the road +ascends again on an easy grade until it reaches an elevation of eight +thousand feet at the Canon. + +During the long drive through the pine woods the appearance of the +country gives no hint of a desert, but beautiful scenery greets the eye +on every hand. The air is filled with the fragrance of pine and ozone +that is as exhilarating as wine. No signs of severe windstorms are +seen in broken branches and fallen trees. If an occasional tree is +found lying prostrate it was felled either by the woodman's ax or one +of nature's destructive forces, fire or decay, or both. But the large +number of shattered trees which are encountered during the day give +evidence that the lightning is frequently very destructive in its work. +The bark of the pine trees is of a reddish gray color, which contrasts +brightly with the green foliage. + +The winter road furnishes even more attractions than the summer road on +which line a railroad should be built through to the Canon. Soon after +leaving town a side road leads to the cliff dwellings in Walnut Canon. +Along the wayside a signboard points the direction to the Bottomless +Pit, which is a deep hole in the ground that is only one of many such +fissures in the earth found on the Colorado Plateau. Four miles east +of Canon Diablo a narrow fissure from a few inches to several feet +wide and hundreds of feet deep has been traced in a continuous line +over one hundred miles. + +Further on a group of cave dwellings can be seen among the rocks upon a +distant bill. A turn in the road next brings the Sunset Mountain into +view. Its crest glows with the colors of sunset, which unusual effect +is produced by colored rocks that are of volcanic origin. Black +cinders cover its steep sides and its brow is the rim of a deep crater. +Between Sunset Peak and O'Leary Peak is the Black Crater from which +flowed at one time thick streams of black lava that hardened into rock +and are known as the lava beds. Scores of crater cones and miles of +black cinders can be seen from Sunset Mountain, and lava and cinders of +this region look as fresh as if an eruption had occurred but yesterday. + +A peculiarity of the pine trees which grow in the cinders is that their +roots do not go down but spread out upon the surface. Some of the +roots are entirely bare while others are half buried in cinders. They +are from an inch to a foot thick and from ten to fifty feet long, +according to the size of the tree which they support. The cause of the +queer root formation is not apparent. + +The whole plateau country is scarce of water. The Grand Canon drains +the ground dry to an unusual depth. The nearest spring of water to the +Canon at Grand View is Cedar Spring, forty miles distant. Until +recently all the water used at the canon was either packed upon burros +from springs down in the canon or caught in ponds or reservoirs from +rains or melted snow. Since the completion of the railroad the water +is hauled in on cars constructed for that purpose. + +The watershed of the canon slopes away from the rim and instead of the +storm water running directly into the river it flows in the opposite +direction. Only after a long detour of many miles does it finally +reach the river by the Little Colorado or Cataract Creek. + +Now that the Grand Canon is made accessible by rail over a branch road +of the Santa Fe from Williams on the main line, it is reached in +comparative ease and comfort. But to stop at the Bright Angel Hotel +and look over the guard rail on the cliff down into the canon gives +merely a glimpse of what there is to see. A brief stay of one day is +better than not stopping at all, but to get even an inkling of its +greatness and grandeur days and weeks must be spent in making trips up +and down and into the canon. + +After having seen the canon at Bright Angel the next move should be to +go to Grand View fourteen miles up the canon. An all day's stage ride +from Flagstaff to the canon was tiresome, but the two hours' drive +through the pine woods from Bright Angel to Grand View is only pleasant +recreation. + +Seeing the Grand Canon for the first time does not necessarily produce +the startling and lachrymose effects that have been described by some +emotional writers, but the first sight never disappoints and always +leaves a deep and lasting impression. + +As immense as is the great chasm it is formed in such harmonious +proportions that it does not shock the senses. But as everything about +the canon is built on such a grand scale and the eyes not being +accustomed to such sights it is impossible to comprehend it--to measure +its dimensions correctly or note every detail of form and color at the +first glance. As the guide remarked, "God made it so d-- big that you +can't lie about it." + +To comprehend it at all requires time to re-educate the senses and make +them accustomed to the new order of things. But even a cursory view +will always remain in the memory as the event of a lifetime in the +experience of the average mortal. + +Distance in the canon cannot be measured by the usual standards. There +are sheer walls of rocks that are thousands of feet high and as many +more feet deep, but where the bottom seems to be is only the beginning +of other chasms which lie in the dark shadows and descend into yet +deeper depths below. The canon is not a single empty chasm, which is +the universal conception of a canon, but consists of a complex system +of sub and side canons that is bewildering. Out of its depths rise an +infinite number and variety of castellated cliffs and sculptured buttes +that represent every conceivable variety of architecture. They have +the appearance of a resurrected city of great size and beauty which +might have been built by an army of Titans then buried and forgotten. + +A trip into the canon down one of the trails makes its magnitude even +more impressive than a rim view. The distance across the chasm is also +much greater than what it seems to be, which is demonstrated by the +blue haze that fills the canon. The nearby buttes are perfectly +distinct, but as the distance increases across the great gorge the haze +gradually thickens until the opposite wall is almost obscured by the +mist. + +The myriads of horizontal lines which mark the different strata of +rocks have the appearance of a maze of telegraph wires strung through +the canon. + +A ride leisurely on horseback along the rim trail from Thurber's old +camp to Bissell's Point, seven miles up the canon, and back is easily +made in a day. It presents a panorama of magnificent views all along +the rim, but Bissell's is conceded to be the best view point on the +canon. From this point about thirty miles of river can be seen as it +winds in and out deep down among the rocks. The Colorado river is a +large stream, but as seen here a mile below and several miles out, it +dwindles into insignificance and appears no larger than a meadow brook. +The river looks placid in the distance, but is a raging, turbulent +torrent in which an ordinary boat cannot live and the roar of its wild +waters can be distinctly heard as of the rushing of a distant train of +cars. + +A second day spent in riding down the canon to Grand View Point and +back is equally delightful. Looking across a bend in the canon from +Grand View Point to Bissell's Point the distance seems to be scarcely +more than a stone's throw, yet it is fully half the distance of the +circuitous route by the rim trail. + +There are three trails leading into the canon and down to the river, +the Bright Angel, Grand View and Hance trails, which are at intervals +of eight and twelve miles apart. They are equally interesting and +comparatively safe if the trip is made on the back of a trained pony or +burro with a competent guide. + +The Hance trail is a loop and is twenty miles long. It is seven miles +down to the river, six miles up the stream and seven miles back to the +rim. It was built single handed by Captain John Hance, who has lived +many years in the canon. The trail is free to pedestrians, but yields +the captain a snug income from horse hire and his own services as guide +for tourists who go over the trail. + +Captain Hance is an entertaining raconteur and he spins many +interesting yarns for the amusement, if not the edification, of his +guests. The serious manner in which he relates his stories makes it +sometimes hard to tell whether he is in jest or earnest. His +acknowledged skill in mountaineering, and felicity in romancing has won +for him more than a local reputation and the distinguished title of +Grand Canon Guide and Prevaricator. + +He relates how "once upon a time" he pursued a band of mountain sheep +on the rim of the canon. Just as he was about to secure his quarry the +sheep suddenly turned a short corner and disappeared behind some rocks. +Before he realized his danger he found himself on the brink of a +yawning abyss and under such a momentum that he could not turn aside or +stop his horse. Together they went over the cliff in an awful leap. +He expected to meet instant death on the rocks below and braced himself +for the shock. As the fall was greater than usual, being over a mile +deep in a perpendicular line, it required several seconds for the +descending bodies to traverse the intervening space, which gave him a +few moments to think and plan some way of escape. At the critical +moment a happy inspiration seized and saved him. On the instant that +his horse struck the rock and was dashed to pieces, the captain sprang +nimbly from the saddle to his feet unharmed. To prove the truth of his +statement he never misses an opportunity to point out to the tourist +the spot where his horse fell, and shows the white bones of his defunct +steed bleaching in the sun. + +At Moran's Point there is a narrow cleft in the rocks which he calls +the Fat Woman's Misery. It received its name several years ago from a +circumstance that happened while he was conducting a party of tourists +along the rim trail. To obtain a better view the party essayed to +squeeze through the opening, in which attempt all succeeded except one +fat women who stuck fast. After vainly trying to extricate her from +her uncomfortable position he finally told her that there was but one +of two things to do, either remain where she was and starve to death or +take one chance in a thousand of being blown out alive by dynamite. +After thinking a moment she decided to try the "one chance in a +thousand" experiment. + +A charge of dynamite was procured and the fuse lighted. After the +explosion he returned to the spot and found the result satisfactory. +The blast had released the woman, who was alive and sitting upon a +rock. He approached her cheerfully and said: + +"Madam, how do you feel?" She looked up shocked, but evidently very +much relieved, and replied "Why, sir, I feel first rate, but the jolt +gave me a little toothache." + +He tells another story of how he once took a drink from the Colorado +river. The water is never very clear in the muddy stream but at that +particular time it was unusually murky. He had nothing with which to +dip the water and lay down on the bank to take a drink. Being very +thirsty he paid no attention to the quality of the water, but only knew +that it tasted wet. The water, however, grew thicker as he drank until +it became balled up in his mouth, and stuck fast in his throat and +threatened to choke him. He tried to bite it off but failed because +his teeth were poor. At last becoming desperate, he pulled his hunting +knife from his belt and cut himself loose from his drink. + +Different theories have been advanced to account for the origin of the +Grand Canon, but it is a question whether it is altogether due to any +one cause. Scientists say that it is the work of water erosion, but to +the layman it seems impossible. If an ocean of water should flow over +rocks during eons of ages it does not seem possible that it could cut +such a channel. + +Water sometimes does queer things, but it has never been known to +reverse nature. By a fundamental law of hydrostatics water always +seeks its level and flows in the direction of least resistance. If +water ever made the Grand Canon it had to climb a hill and cut its way +through the backbone of the Buckskin mountains, which are not a range +of peaks but a broad plateau of solid rock. Into this rock the canon +is sunk more than a mile deep, from six to eighteen miles wide and over +two hundred miles long. + +In order to make the theory of water erosion tenable it is assumed that +the Colorado river started in its incipiency like any other river. +After a time the river bed began to rise and was gradually pushed up +more and more by some unknown subterranean force as the water cut +deeper and deeper into the rock until the Grand Canon was formed. + +Captain Hance has a theory that the canon originated in an underground +stream which tunneled until it cut its way through to the surface. As +improbable as is this theory it is as plausible as the erosion theory, +but both theories appear to be equally absurd. + +At some remote period of time the entire southwest was rent and torn by +an awful cataclysm which caused numerous fissures and seams to appear +all over the country. The force that did the work had its origin in +the earth and acted by producing lateral displacement rather than +direct upheaval. Whenever that event occurred the fracture which marks +the course of the Grand Canon was made and, breaking through the +enclosing wall of the Great Basin, set free the waters of an inland +sea. What the seismic force began the flood of liberated water helped +to finish, and there was born the greatest natural wonder of the known +world. + +There are canons all over Arizona and the southwest that resemble the +Grand Canon, except that they were made on a smaller scale. Many of +them are perfectly dry and apparently never contained any running +water. They are all so much alike that they were evidently made at the +same time and by the same cause. Walnut Canon and Canon Diablo are +familiar examples of canon formation. + +The rocks in the canons do not stand on end, but lie in horizontal +strata and show but little dip anywhere. Indeed, the rocks lie so +plumb in many places that they resemble the most perfect masonry. + +The rim rock of the Mogollon Mesa is of the same character as the walls +of the Grand Canon and is an important part of the canon system. It is +almost a perpendicular cliff from one to three thousand feet high which +extends from east to west across central Arizona and divides the great +northern plateau from the southern valleys. It is one side of an +immense vault or canon wall whose mate has been lost or dropped +completely out of sight. + +In many of the canons where water flows continuously, effects are +produced that are exactly the opposite of those ascribed to water +erosion. Instead of the running water cutting deeper into the earth it +has partly filled the canon with alluvium, thereby demonstrating +nature's universal leveling process. Even the floods of water which +pour through them during every rainy season with an almost irresistible +force carry in more soil than they wash out and every freshet only adds +new soil to the old deposits. If these canons were all originally made +by water erosion as is claimed, why does not the water continue to act +in the same manner now but, instead, completely reverses itself as +above stated? There can be but one of two conclusions, either that +nature has changed or that scientists are mistaken. + +The Aravaipa in southern Arizona is an interesting canon and is typical +of its kind. Its upper half is shallow and bounded by low rolling +foothills, but in the middle it suddenly deepens and narrows into a box +canon, which has high perpendicular walls of solid rock like the Grand +Canon. It is a long, narrow valley sunk deep into the earth and has +great fertility and much wild beauty. It measures from a few feet to a +mile in width and drains a large scope of rough country. The surface +water which filters through from above reappears in numerous springs of +clear cold water in the bottom of the canon. In the moist earth and +under the shade of forest trees grow a variety of rare flowers, ferns +and mosses. + +Where the canon begins to box a large spring of pure cold water issues +from the sand in the bottom of a wash which is the source of the +Aravaipa creek. It flows through many miles of rich alluvial land and +empties into the San Predo river. The valley was settled many years +ago by men who were attracted to the spot by its rare beauty, fertility +of soil and an abundance of wood and water. + +The land is moist and covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, which +will average over one hundred feet high. The trees are as large and +the foliage as dense as in any eastern forest. Being sunk deep in the +earth the narrow valley at the bottom of the canon can only be seen +from above. When viewed from some favorable point it has the +appearance of a long green ribbon stretched loosely over a brown +landscape. The sight of it is a pleasant surprise to the weary +wayfarer who, after traveling over many miles of dreary desert road, +finds himself suddenly ushered into such pleasant scenes. + +The canons of Arizona are unrivaled for grandeur, sublimity and beauty, +and will attract an ever increasing number of admirers. + + +[1] Results of a Biological Survey of the San Francisco Mountain Region +and Painted Desert of the Little Colorado, Arizona. 1890. + + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN + +Ten miles southeast of Canon Diablo station on the Santa Fe Pacific +Railroad, stands the Meteorite Mountain of Arizona, on a wide, open +plain of the Colorado Plateau. It is two hundred feet high and, as +seen at a distance, has the appearance of a low, flat mountain. Its +top forms the rim of an immense, round, bowl-shaped hole in the ground +that has almost perpendicular sides, is one mile wide and over six +hundred feet deep. The hole, originally, was evidently very much +deeper than it is at the present time, but it has gradually become +filled with debris to its present depth. The bottom of the hole has a +floor of about forty acres of level ground which merges into a talus. + +This formation is sometimes called the Crater, because of its shape, +but there is no evidence of volcanic action. Locally it is known as +Coon Butte, which is a misnomer; but Meteorite Mountain is a name with +a meaning. + +It is not known positively just how or when the mountain was formed, +but the weight of evidence seems to favor the meteorite theory, which +is that at some remote period of time a monster meteorite fell from the +sky and buried itself in the earth. + +Mr. F. W. Volz, who has lived in the country twenty years and is an +intelligent observer of natural phenomena, has made a careful study of +the mountain, and it is his opinion that such an event actually +occurred and that a falling star made the mountain. When the +descending meteorite, with its great weight and terrific momentum, hit +the earth something had to happen. It buried itself deep beneath the +surface and caused the earth to heave up on all sides. The effect +produced is aptly illustrated, on a small scale, by throwing a rock +into thick mud. + +The impact of the meteorite upon the earth not only caused an upheaval +of the surface, but it also crushed and displaced the rocks beneath. +As the stellar body penetrated deeper into the earth its force became +more concentrated and either compressed the rocks into a denser mass or +ground them to powder. + +The plain on which the mountain stands is covered by a layer of red +sandstone of variable thickness, as it is much worn in places by +weather erosion. Below the top covering of red sandstone lie three +hundred feet of limestone and beneath the limestone five hundred feet +more of white sandstone. This arrangement of the rocks is plainly seen +in the walls of Canon Diablo. + +The displaced strata of rocks in the hole are tilted and stand outwards +and great boulders of red sandstone and limestone lie scattered all +about. If the hole had been made by an explosion from below large +pieces of rock from each one of the different rock strata would have +been thrown out; but, while as just stated, there are plenty of huge +blocks of red sandstone and limestone, there are no large pieces of +white sandstone. After the superficial layers of rock had been broken +up and expelled en masse, the deeper rock of white sandstone, being +more confined, could not reach the surface in the shape of boulders, +but had first to be broken up and ground to powder before it could +escape. Then the white sandstones in the form of fine sand was blown +skywards by the collision and afterwards settled down upon the +mountain. The mountain is covered with this white sand, which could +only have come out of the big hole as there is no other white sand or +sandstone found anywhere else upon the entire plain. + +In the vicinity of the mountain about ten tons of meteorites have been +found, varying in size from the fraction of an ounce to one thousand +pounds or more. Most of the meteorites were found by Mr. Volz, who +searched diligently every foot of ground for miles around. The smaller +pieces were picked up on or near the rim, and they increased in size in +proportion as they were distant from the mountain until, on a circle +eight miles out, the largest piece was found. Meteorites were found +upon all sides of the mountain but they seemed to be thickest on the +east side. + +The writer first visited the mountain in the summer of 1901 and it was +the greatest surprise of his six weeks' trip sightseeing in northern +Arizona where are found many natural wonders. He was fortunate enough +to find a three pound meteorite within five minutes after arriving on +the rim, which Mr. Volz said was the first specimen found by anyone in +over four years. + +Professor G. K. Gilbert of the United States Geological Survey visited +the mountain several years ago to investigate the phenomenon and, if +possible, to determine its origin by scientific test. He gave the +results of his researches in a very able and comprehensive address,[1] +delivered before the Geological Society of Washington, D.C. The +existing conditions did not seem to fit his theories, and he concluded +his work without arriving at any definite conclusion. + +After disposing of several hypotheses as being incompetent to prove the +origin of the mountain he decided to try the magnetic test. He assumed +that if such a meteorite was buried there the large mass of metallic +iron must indicate its presence by magnetic attraction. By means of +the latest scientific apparatus he conducted an elaborate magnetic +experiment which gave only negative results. + +He discussed at length the various hypotheses which might explain the +origin of the crater and concluded his notable address as follows: + +"Still another contribution to the subject, while it does not increase +the number of hypotheses, is nevertheless important in that it tends to +diminish the weight of the magnetic evidence and thus to reopen the +question which Mr. Baker and I supposed we had settled. Our +fellow-member, Mr. Edwin E. Howell, through whose hands much of the +meteoric iron had passed, points out that each of the iron masses, +great and small, is in itself a complete individual. They have none of +the characters that would be found if they had been broken one from +another, and yet, as they are all of one type and all reached the earth +within a small district, it must be supposed that they were originally +connected in some way. + +"Reasoning by analogy from the characters of other meteoric bodies, he +infers that the irons were all included in a large mass of some +different material, either crystalline rock, such as constitutes the +class of meteorites called 'stony,' or else a compound of iron and +sulphur, similar to certain nodules discovered inside the iron masses +when sawn in two. Neither of these materials is so enduring as iron, +and the fact that they are not now found on the plain does not prove +their original absence. Moreover, the plain is strewn in the vicinity +of the crater with bits of limonite, a mineral frequently produced by +the action of air and water on iron sulphides, and this material is +much more abundant than the iron. If it be true that the iron masses +were thus imbedded, like plums in an astral pudding, the hypothetic +buried star might have great size and yet only small power to attract +the magnetic needle. Mr. Howell also proposes a qualification of the +test by volumes, suggesting that some of the rocks beneath the buried +star might have been condensed by the shock so as to occupy less space. + +"These considerations are eminently pertinent to the study of the +crater and will find appropriate place in any comprehensive discussion +of its origin; but the fact which is peculiarly worthy of note at the +present time is their ability to unsettle a conclusion that was +beginning to feel itself secure. This illustrates the tentative nature +not only of the hypotheses of science, but of what science calls its +results. + +"The method of hypotheses, and that method is the method of science, +founds its explanations of nature wholly on observed facts, and its +results are ever subject to the limitations imposed by imperfect +observation. However grand, however widely accepted, however useful +its conclusions, none is so sure that it cannot be called into question +by a newly discovered fact. In the domain of the world's knowledge +there is no infallibility." + +After Prof. Gilbert had finished his experiments, Mr. Volz tried some +of his own along the same line. He found upon trial that the +meteorites in his possession were non-magnetic, or, practically so. If +these, being pieces of the larger meteorite which was buried in the +hole, were non-magnetic, all of it must be non-magnetic, which would +account for the failure of the needle to act or manifest any magnetic +attraction in the greater test. + +Mr. Volz also made another interesting discovery in this same +connection. All over the meteorite zone are scattered about small +pieces of iron which he calls "iron shale." It is analogous to the +true meteorite, but is "burnt" or "dead." He regards these bits of +iron as dead sparks from a celestial forge, which fell from the +meteorite as it blazed through the heavens. + +In experimenting with the stuff he found that it was not only highly +magnetic, but also possessed polarity in a marked degree; and was +entirely different from the true meteorite. Here was a curiosity, +indeed; a small, insignificant and unattractive stone possessed of +strong magnetic polarity, a property of electricity that is as +mysterious and incomprehensible as is electricity itself. + +Another peculiarity of Canon Diablo meteorite is that it contains +diamonds. When the meteorite was first discovered by a Mexican sheep +herder he supposed that he had found a large piece of silver, because +of its great weight and luster, but he was soon informed of his +mistake. Not long afterwards a white prospector who heard of the +discovery undertook to use it to his own advantage, by claiming that he +had found a mine of pure iron, which he offered for sale. In an +attempt to dispose of the property samples of the ore were sent east +for investigation. Some of the stone fell into the hands of Dr. Foote, +who pronounced it to be meteorite and of celestial origin. + +Sir William Crookes in discussing the theory of the meteoric origin of +diamonds[2] says "the most striking confirmation of the meteoric theory +comes from Arizona. Here, on a broad open plain, over an area about +five miles in diameter, were scattered from one to two thousand masses +of metallic iron, the fragments varying in weight from half a ton to a +fraction of an ounce. There is little doubt that these masses formed +part of a meteorite shower, although no record exists as to when the +fall took place. Curiously enough, near the center, where most of the +meteoritics have been found, is a crater with raised edges three +quarters of a mile in diameter and about six hundred feet deep, bearing +exactly the appearance which would be produced had a mighty mass of +iron or falling star struck the ground, scattering in all directions, +and buried itself deep under the surface. Altogether ten tons of this +iron have been collected, and specimens of Canyon Diablo Meteorite are +in most collectors' cabinets. + +"An ardent mineralogist, the late Dr. Foote, in cutting a section of +this meteorite, found the tools were injured by something vastly harder +than metallic iron, and an emery wheel used in grinding the iron had +been ruined. He examined the specimen chemically, and soon after +announced to the scientific world that the Canyon Diablo Meteorite +contained black and transparent diamonds. This startling discovery was +afterwards verified by Professors Friedel and Moissan, who found that +the Canyon Diablo Meteorite contained the three varieties of +carbon--diamond (transparent and black), graphite and amorphous carbon. +Since this revelation the search for diamonds in meteorites has +occupied the attention of chemists all over the world. + +"Here, then, we have absolute proof of the truth of the meteoric +theory. Under atmospheric influences the iron would rapidly oxidize +and rust away, coloring the adjacent soil with red oxide of iron. The +meteoric diamonds would be unaffected and left on the surface to be +found by explorers when oxidation had removed the last proof of their +celestial origin. That there are still lumps of iron left in Arizona +is merely due to the extreme dryness of the climate and the +comparatively short time that the iron has been on our planet. We are +here witnesses to the course of an event which may have happened in +geologic times anywhere on the earth's surface." + +About a year ago several mineral claims were located in the crater by a +company of scientific and moneyed men. The required assessment work +was done and a patent for the land obtained from the government. The +object of the enterprise is for a double purpose, if possible to solve +the mystery of the mountain, and if successful in finding the +"hypothetic buried star" to excavate and appropriate it for its +valuable iron. + +A shaft has been sunk one hundred and ninety-five feet deep, where a +strong flow of water was encountered in a bed of white sand which +temporarily stopped the work. A gasoline engine and drill were +procured and put in operation and the drill was driven down forty feet +further when it stuck fast in white quicksand. It is the intention of +the company to continue the work and carry it on to a successful finish. + +Nothing of value was found in the hole dug, but some of the workmen in +their leisure hours found on the surface two large meteorites weighing +one hundred and one hundred and fifty pounds respectively, besides a +number of smaller fragments. + +The Meteorite Mountain is in a class by itself and is, in a way, as +great a curiosity as is the Grand Canon. It is little known and has +not received the attention that it deserves. It is, indeed, marvelous +and only needs to be seen to be appreciated. + + +[1] The Origin of Hypotheses. 1895. + +[2] Diamonds. Wm. Crookes, F.R.S. Smithsonian Report. 1897. + + + +CHAPTER XII + +THE CLIFF DWELLERS + +In the canons of the Colorado river and its tributaries are found the +ruins of an ancient race of cliff dwellers. These ruins are numerous +and are scattered over a wide scope of country, which includes Arizona +and portions of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico. Many of them are yet in +a good state of preservation, but all show the marks of age and decay. +They are not less than four hundred years old and are, in all +probability, much older. Their preservation is largely due to their +sheltered position among the rocks and an exceptionally dry climate. + +The houses are invariably built upon high cliffs on shelving rocks in +places that are almost inaccessible. In some instances they can only +be reached by steps cut into the solid rock, which are so old and worn +that they are almost obliterated. Their walls so nearly resemble the +stratified rocks upon which they stand, that they are not easily +distinguished from their surroundings. + +The cliffs are often sloping, sometimes overhanging, but more +frequently perpendicular. The weather erosion of many centuries has +caused the softer strata of exposed rocks in the cliffs to disintegrate +and fall away, which left numberless caverns wherein this ancient and +mysterious people chose to build their eyrie homes to live with the +eagles. The houses are built of all shapes and sizes and, apparently, +were planned to fit the irregular and limited space of their +environment. Circular watch towers look down from commanding heights +which, from their shape and position, were evidently intended to serve +the double purpose of observation and defense. + +In the search for evidence of their antiquity it is believed that data +has been found which denotes great age. In the construction of some of +their houses, notably those in the Mancos Canon, is displayed a +technical knowledge of architecture and a mathematical accuracy which +savages do not possess; and the fine masonry of dressed stone and +superior cement seem to prove that Indians were not the builders. On +the contrary, to quote a recent writer, "The evidence goes to show that +the work was done by skilled workmen who were white masons and who +built for white people in a prehistoric age." In this connection it is +singular, if not significant, that the natives when first discovered +believed in a bearded white man whom they deified as the Fair God of +whose existence they had obtained knowledge from some source and in +whose honor they kept their sacred altar fires burning unquenched. + +The relics that have been found in the ruins are principally implements +of the stone age, but are of sufficient variety to indicate a +succession of races that were both primitive and cultured and as widely +separated in time as in knowledge. + +The cliff dwellings were not only the abodes of their original +builders, but were occupied and deserted successively by the chipped +stone implement maker, the polisher of hard stone, the basket maker and +the weaver. + +Among the relics that have been found in the ruins are some very fine +specimens of pottery which are as symmetrical and well finished as if +they had been turned on a potter's wheel, and covered with an opaque +enamel of stanniferous glaze composed of lead and tin that originated +with the Phoenicians, and is as old as history. Can it be possible +that the cliff dwellers are a lost fragment of Egyptian civilization? + +The cliff ruins in Arizona are not only found in the canons of the +Colorado river, but also in many other places. The finest of them are +Montezuma's Castle on Beaver creek, and the Casa Blanca in Canon de +Chelly. Numerous other ruins are found on the Rio Verde, Gila river, +Walnut Canon and elsewhere. + +The largest and finest group of cliff dwellings are those on the Mesa +Verde in Colorado. They are fully described in the great work[1] of +Nordenskiold, who spent much time among them. The different houses are +named after some peculiarity of appearance or construction, like the +Cliff Palace, which contains more than one hundred rooms, Long House, +Balcony House, Spruce Tree House, etc. + +He obtained a large quantity of relics, which are also fully described, +consisting of stone implements, pottery, cotton and feather cloth, +osier and palmillo mats, yucca sandals, weaving sticks, bone awls, corn +and beans. + +Many well-preserved mummies were found buried in graves that were +carefully closed and sealed. The bodies were wrapped in a fine cotton +cloth of drawn work, which was covered by a coarser cloth resembling +burlap, and all inclosed in a wrapping of palmillo matting tied with a +cord made of the fiber of cedar bark. The hair is fine and of a brown +color, and not coarse and black like the hair of the wild Indians. +Mummies have been exhumed that have red or light colored hair such as +usually goes with a fair skin. This fact has led some to believe that +the cliff dwellers belonged to the white race, but not necessarily so, +as this quality of hair also belongs to albinos, who doubtless lived +among the cliff dwellers as they do among the Moquis and Zunis at the +present day, and explains the peculiarity of hair just mentioned. + +These remains may be very modern, as some choose to believe, but, in +all probability, they are more ancient than modern. Mummies encased in +wood and cloth have been taken from the tombs of Egypt in an almost +perfect state of preservation which cannot be less than two thousand +years old, and are, perhaps, more than double that age. As there is no +positive knowledge as to when the cliff dwellers flourished, one man's +guess on the subject is as good as another's. + +An important discovery was recently made near Mancos, Colorado, where a +party of explorers found in some old cliff dwellings graves beneath +graves that were entirely different from anything yet discovered. They +were egg-shaped, built of stone and plastered smoothly with clay. They +contained mummies, cloth, sandals, beads and various other trinkets. +There was no pottery, but many well-made baskets, and their owners have +been called the basket makers. There was also a difference in the +skulls found. The cliff dwellers' skull is short and flattened behind, +while the skulls that were found in these old graves were long, narrow +and round on the back.[2] + +Rev. H. M. Baum, who has traveled all over the southwest and visited +every large ruin in the country, considers that Canon de Chelly and its +branch, del Muerto, is the most interesting prehistoric locality in the +United States. The Navajos, who now live in the canon, have a +tradition that the people who occupied the old cliff houses were all +destroyed in one day by a wind of fire.[3] The occurrence, evidently, +was similar to what happened recently on the island of Martinique, when +all the inhabitants of the village of St. Pierre perished in an hour by +the eruption of Mont Pelee. + +Contemporaneous with the cliff dwellers there seems to have lived a +race of people in the adjoining valleys who built cities and tilled the +soil. Judged by their works they must have been an industrious, +intelligent and numerous people. All over the ground are strewn broken +pieces of pottery that are painted in bright colors and artistic +designs which, after ages of exposure to the weather, look as fresh as +if newly made, The relics that have been taken from the ruins are +similar to those found in the cliff houses, and consist mostly of stone +implements and pottery. + +In the Gila valley, near the town of Florence, stands the now famous +Casa Grande ruin, which is the best preserved of all these ancient +cities. It was a ruin when the Spaniards first discovered it, and is a +type of the ancient communal house. Its thick walls are composed of a +concrete adobe that is as hard as rock, and its base lines conform to +the cardinal points of, the compass. It is an interesting relic of a +past age and an extinct race and, if it cannot yield up its secrets to +science, it at least appeals to the spirit of romance and mystery. + +Irrigating ditches which were fed from reservoirs supplied their fields +and houses with water. Portions of these old canals are yet in +existence and furnish proof of the diligence and skill of their +builders. The ditches were located on levels that could not be +improved upon for utilizing the land and water to the best advantage. +Modern engineers have not been able to better them and in many places +the old levels are used in new ditches at the present time. + +Whatever may have been the fate of this ancient people their +destruction must be sought in natural causes rather than by human +warfare. An adverse fate probably cut off their water supply and laid +waste their productive fields. With their crops a failure and all +supplies gone what else could the people do but either starve or move, +but as to the nature of the exodus history is silent. + +Just how ancient these works are might be difficult to prove, but they +are certainly not modern. The evidence denotes that they have existed +a long time. Where the water in a canal flowed over solid rock the +rock has been much worn. Portions of the old ditches are filled with +lava and houses lie buried in the vitreous flood. It is certain that +the country was inhabited prior to the last lava flow whether that +event occurred hundreds or thousands of years ago. + +It is claimed that the Pueblo Indians and cliff dwellers are identical +and that the latter were driven from their peaceful valley homes by a +hostile foe to find temporary shelter among the rocks, but such a +conclusion seems to be erroneous in view of certain facts. + +The cliff dwellings were not temporary camps, as such a migration would +imply, but places of permanent abode. The houses are too numerous and +well constructed to be accounted for on any other hypothesis. A people +fleeing periodically to the cliffs to escape from an enemy could not +have built such houses. Indeed, they are simply marvelous when +considered as to location and construction. The time that must +necessarily have been consumed in doing the work and the amount of +danger and labor involved--labor in preparing and getting the material +into place and danger in scaling the dizzy heights over an almost +impassible trail, it seems the boldest assumption to assert that the +work was done by a fleeing and demoralized mob. + +Again, it would be a physical impossibility for a people who were only +accustomed to agricultural pursuits to suddenly and completely change +their habits of life such as living among the rocks would necessitate. +Only by native instinct and daily practice from childhood would it be +possible for any people to follow the narrow and difficult paths which +were habitually traveled by the cliff dwellers. It requires a clear +head and steady nerves to perform the daring feat in safety--to the +truth of which statement modern explorers can testify who have made the +attempt in recent years at the peril of life and limb while engaged in +searching for archaeological treasures. + +Judged by the everyday life that is familiar to us it seems incredible +that houses should ever have been built or homes established in such +hazardous places, or that any people should have ever lived there. But +that they did is an established fact as there stand the houses which +were built and occupied by human beings in the midst of surroundings +that might appall the stoutest heart. Children played and men and +women wrought on the brink of frightful precipices in a space so +limited and dangerous that a single misstep made it fatal. + +It is almost impossible to conceive of any condition in life, or +combination of circumstances in the affairs of men, that should drive +any people to the rash act of living in the houses of the cliff +dwellers. Men will sometimes do from choice what they cannot be made +to do by compulsion. It is easier to believe that the cliff dwellers, +being free people, chose of their own accord the site of their +habitation rather than that from any cause they were compelled to make +the choice. Their preference was to live upon the cliffs, as they were +fitted by nature for such an environment. + +For no other reason, apparently, do the Moquis live upon their rocky +and barren mesas away from everything which the civilized white man +deems desirable, yet, in seeming contentment. The Supais, likewise, +choose to live alone at the bottom of Cataract Canon where they are +completely shut in by high cliffs. Their only road out is by a narrow +and dangerous trail up the side of the canon, which is little traveled +as they seldom leave home and are rarely visited. + +To affirm that the cliff dwellers were driven from their strongholds +and dispersed by force is pure fiction, nor is there any evidence to +support such a theory. That they had enemies no one doubts, but, being +in possession of an impregnable position where one man could +successfully withstand a thousand, to surrender would have been base +cowardice, and weakness was not a characteristic of the cliff dwellers. + +The question of their subsistence is likewise a puzzle. They evidently +cultivated the soil where it was practicable to do so as fragments of +farm products have been found in their dwellings, but in the vicinity +of some of the houses there is no tillable land and the inhabitants +must have depended upon other means for support. The wild game which +was, doubtless, abundant furnished them with meat and edible seeds, +fruits and roots from native plants like the pinon pine and mesquite +which together with the saguaro and mescal, supplied them with a +variety of food sufficient for their subsistence as they do, in a +measure, the wild Indian tribes of that region at the present day. + + +[1] The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde, by F. Nordenskiold, +Stockholm. 1893. + +[2] An Elder Brother of the Cliff Dwellers, by T. M. Prudden, M.D. +Harper's Magazine, June, 1897. + +[3] Pueblo and Cliff Dwellers of the Southwest. Records of the Past, +December, 1902. + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +THE MOQUI INDIANS + +The Indians of Arizona are, perhaps, the most interesting of any of the +American aborigines. They are as unique and picturesque as is the land +which they inhabit; and the dead are no less so than the living. + +The Pueblo Indians, with which the Moquis are classed, number +altogether about ten thousand and are scattered in twenty-six villages +over Arizona and New Mexico. They resemble each other in many +respects, but do not all speak the same language. They represent +several wholly disconnected stems and are classified linguistically by +Brinton as belonging to the Uto-Aztecan, Kera, Tehua and Zuni stocks. +He believes that the Pueblo civilization is not due to any one +unusually gifted lineage, but is altogether a local product, developed +in independent tribes by their peculiar environment, which is favorable +to agriculture and sedentary pursuits.[1] + +The houses are constructed of stone and adobe, are several stories high +and contain many apartments. None of the existing pueblos are as large +as some that are in ruins which, judging by the quantity of debris, +must have been huge affairs. Since the advent of the Spaniard the +style of building has changed somewhat to conform to modern ideas, so +that now some families live in separate one-story houses having doors +and windows, instead, as formerly, only in large communal houses that +were built and conducted on the communal plan. + +Their manners and customs are peculiar to themselves and make an +interesting study. Their civilization is entirely original, though +modified to some extent by centuries of contact with the whites. They +understand the Spanish language, but have not forgotten their mother +tongue. They hold tenaciously to their old customs and have not +changed materially during the past four hundred years. + +During that time the Catholic missionaries endeavored to convert them +to Christianity, but with only partial success. While they appeared to +acquiesce, by giving formal obedience to the requirements of the new +religion, they yet held sacred their old beliefs and in the privacy of +the estufa practiced in secret the rites and ceremonies of their +ancient faith. + +The Spaniards undertook to conquer a free and independent people by +teaching them dependence and submission, but signally failed. After a +struggle of two hundred and eighty years Spanish civilization withdrew +and left the Pueblo civilization victorious. + +Under successive Spanish, Mexican and American rule the Pueblo has +preserved itself intact which fact stamps the Pueblo people as being +eminently valiant, self-reliant and persevering. They are peaceable, +industrious and hospitable and are said to be the best governed people +in the world. As nearly as can be ascertained they are free from every +gross vice and crime and Mr. C. F. Lummis, who knows them well, +believes them to be a crimeless people. + +The Moquis of Arizona are the most primitive of the Pueblo Indians and +are worthy representatives of their race. They are of the Aztecan +branch of the Shoshonean family and probably the lineal descendents of +the cliff dwellers. Their home is on the Painted Desert in +northeastern Arizona where they have lived for many centuries. It is a +barren and desolate spot and has been likened to Hades with its fires +extinguished. Nevertheless it is an exceedingly interesting region and +furnishes many attractions. The landscape is highly picturesque and +the phantasmagoric effects of the rarified atmosphere are bewitching. + +In the early Spanish days Moqui land was designated as the Province of +Tusayan and was shrouded in mystery. The seven Moqui towns were at one +time regarded as the seven Cities of Cibola, but later it was decided +that Zuni and not Moqui was the true Cibola. + +When Coronado, at the head of his intrepid army, marched through the +land in the year 1540, he procured native guides to aid him in +exploring the country, hoping to find fabulous wealth which failed to +materialize. He heard of a race of giants whom he wished to meet, but +instead of finding them discovered a river with banks so high that they +"seemed to be raised three or four leagues into the air." What he saw +was the Colorado River with its gigantic canon walls and wealth of +architectural grandeur and beauty. The bewildering sight naturally +astonished him as it does every beholder. Think of a fissure in the +earth over a mile deep! But the Grand Canon of Arizona is more that a +simple fissure in the earth. It is composed of many canons which form +a seemingly endless labyrinth of winding aisles and majestic +avenues--fit promenades for the Gods. + +The land of the Moquinos is full of surprises and, although they are +not all as startling as the Grand Canon, they are sufficiently striking +to make Arizona a wonderland that is second to none on the continent. + +The Moquis live in seven towns or pueblos which are built upon three +rocky mesas that are many miles apart. The mesas are about seven +thousand feet above sea level and from six to eight hundred feet higher +than the surrounding plain. Upon the first or eastern mesa are located +the three towns of Te-wa, Si-chom-ovi and Wal-pi. Tewa is the newest +of the three towns and was built by the Tehuan allies who came as +refugees from the Rio Grande after the great rebellion of 1680. They +were granted permission to build on the spot by agreeing to defend the +Gap, where the trail leaves the mesa, against all intruders. + +Upon the second or middle mesa are the towns of Mi-shong-novi, +Shi-pauli-ovi and Shong-o-pavi; and on the third mesa is O-rai-bi, +which is the largest of the Moqui villages, and equal to the other six +in size and population. The entire population of the seven Moqui towns +numbers about two thousand souls. + +In 1583 Espejo estimated that the Moquis numbered fifty thousand, +which, doubtless, was an over estimate, as he has been accused of +exaggeration. However, since their discovery their numbers have +greatly diminished and steadily continue to decrease, as if it were +also to be their fate to become extinct like the ancient cliff dwellers. + +The Moqui Pueblos are well protected by natural barriers upon all sides +except towards the south. Perched upon their high mesas the people +have been safe from every attack of an enemy, but their fields and +flocks in the valley below were defenseless. The top of the several +mesas can only be reached by ascending steep and difficult trails which +are hard to climb but easy to defend. The paths on the mesas have been +cut deep into the hard rock, which were worn by the soft tread of +moccasined feet during centuries of travel, numbering, perhaps, several +times the four hundred years that are known to history. + +The houses are built of stone and mortar, and rise in terraces from one +to five stories high, back from a street or court to a sheer wall. +Some of the remodeled and newly built houses have modern doors and +windows. The upper stories are reached from the outside by ladders and +stone stairways built into the walls. The rooms are smoothly plastered +and whitewashed and the houses are kept tidy and clean, but the streets +are dirty and unsanitary. + +In these sky cities the Moquis live a retired life that is well suited +to their quiet dispositions, love of home life and tireless industry. +The men are kind, the women virtuous and the children obedient. +Indeed, the children are unusually well behaved. They seldom quarrel +or cry, and a spoiled child cannot be found among them. The Moquis +love peace, and never fight among themselves. If a dispute occurs it +is submitted to a peace council of old men, whose decision is final and +obeyed without a murmur. + +They are shy and suspicious of strangers, but if addressed by the magic +word lolomi, their reserve is instantly gone. It is the open sesame to +their hearts and homes, and after that the house contains nothing too +good to bestow upon the welcome guest. They are true children of +nature, and have not yet become corrupted by the vices of white +civilization. The worst thing they do is that the men smoke tobacco. + +Their industries are few, but afford sufficient income to provide for +their modest needs. They are primarily tillers of the soil, and as +agriculturists succeed under circumstances that would wholly baffle and +discourage an eastern farmer. Several years ago a man was sent out +from Washington to teach the Moquis agriculture, but before a year had +passed the teacher had to buy corn from the Indians. They make baskets +and pottery, weave cloth and dress skins for their own use and to +barter in trade with their neighbors. They like silver and have +skilled workmen who make the white metal into beads and buttons and +various trinkets for personal adornment. They care nothing for gold, +and silver is their only money. Chalchihuitl is their favorite gem and +to own a turquoise stone is regarded as an omen of good fortune to the +happy possessor. + +Just how the Spaniards got the notion that the Moquis loved gold and +possessed vast stores of that precious metal is not apparent unless it +be, as Bandelier suggests, that it originated in the myth of the El +Dorado, or Gilded Man.[2] The story started at Lake Guatanita in +Bogota, and traveled north to Quivera, but the wealth that the +Spaniards sought they never found. Their journey led them over deserts +that gave them but little food and only a meager supply of water, and +ended in disaster. + +The mesas are all rock and utterly barren, and their supplies are all +brought from a distance over difficult trails. The water is carried in +ollas by the women from springs at the foot of the mesa; wood is packed +on burros from distant forests; and corn, melons and peaches are +brought home by the men when they return from their work in the fields. +A less active and industrious people, under similar circumstances, +would soon starve to death, but the Moquis are self-supporting and have +never asked nor received any help from Uncle Sam. + +In the early morning the public crier proclaims in stentorian tones +from the housetop the program for the day, which sends everyone to his +daily task. They are inured to labor and do not count work as a +hardship. It is only by incessant toil that they succeed at all in +earning a living with the scanty resources at their command, and the +only surprise is that they succeed so well. There is scarcely an hour +during the day or night that men and women are not either coming or +going on some errand to provision the home. + +The men travel many miles every day going to and from their work in the +fields. If a man owns a burro he sometimes rides, but usually prefers +to walk. What the burro does not pack, the man carries on his back. +He often sings at his work, just as the white man does in any farming +community, and his song sounds good. + +The burro is the common carrier and, because of his sterling qualities, +is a prime favorite in all of the pueblos. If he has any faults they +are all condoned except one, that of theft. If he is caught eating in +a corn field he is punished as a thief by having one of his ears cut +off; and if the offense is repeated he loses his other ear in the same +manner. + +The area of tillable land is limited and is found only in small +patches, which cause the farms to be widely scattered. The soil is +mostly sand which the wind drifts into dunes that sometimes cover and +destroy the growing crops. The peach trees are often buried in sand or +only their top branches remain visible. There are no running streams +of water and rains are infrequent. + +Corn is the principal crop and support of the Moquis. If there is a +good crop the surplus is stored away and kept to be used in the future +should a crop fail. The corn is planted in irregular hills and +cultivated with a hoe. It is dropped into deep holes made with a stick +and covered up. There is always enough moisture in the sand to sprout +the seed which, aided by an occasional shower, causes it to grow and +mature a crop. The corn is of a hardy, native variety that needs but +little water to make it grow. The grain is small and hard like popcorn +and ripens in several colors. + +It is carried home from the field by the men, and ground into meal by +the women. The sound of the grinding is heard in the street and is +usually accompanied by a song that sounds weird but musical. The meal +is ground into different grades of fineness and when used for bread is +mixed with water to form a thin batter which is spread by the hand upon +a hot, flat stone. It is quickly baked and makes a thin wafer that is +no thicker than paper. When done it is removed from the stone by the +naked hand and is rolled or folded into loaves which makes their prized +pici bread. It is said to be only one of fifty different methods which +the Moquis have of preparing corn for the table, or about twice the +number of styles known to any modern chef. + +The Moqui woman is favored above many of her sex who live in foreign +lands. As a child she receives much attention and toys galore, as the +parents are very fond of their children and devote much time to their +amusement. They make dolls of their Katcinas which are given to the +children to play with. A Katcina is the emblem of a deity that is +represented either in the form of a doll carved out of wood, woven into +a plaque or basket, or painted on tiles and pottery. There are between +three and four hundred Katcina dolls each one representing a different +divinity. When a doll is given to a child it is taught what it means, +thus combining instruction with amusement. The method is a perfect +system of kindergarten teaching, which the Moquis invented and used +centuries before the idea occurred to Froebel. + +When the girl is ten years old her education properly begins and she is +systematically inducted into the mysteries of housekeeping. At fifteen +she has completed her curriculum and can cook, bake, sew, dye, spin and +weave and is, indeed, graduated in all the accomplishments of the +finished Moqui maiden. She now does up her hair in two large coils or +whorls, one on each side of the head, which is meant to resemble a +full-blown squash blossom and signifies that the wearer is of +marriageable age and in the matrimonial market. It gives her a +striking yet not unbecoming appearance, and, if her style of coiffure +were adopted by modern fashion it would be something unusually +attractive. As represented by Donaldson in the eleventh census report +the handsome face of Pootitcie, a maiden of the pueblo of Sichomovi, +makes a pretty picture that even her white sisters must admire. After +marriage the hair is let down and done up in two hard twists that fall +over the shoulders. This form represents a ripe, dried squash blossom +and means fruitfulness. + +Her dress is not Spanish nor yet altogether Indian, but is simple, +comfortable and becoming, which is more than can be said of some +civilized costumes. She chooses her own husband, inherits her mother's +name and property and owns the house in which she lives. Instead of +the man owning and bossing everything, as he so dearly loves to do in +our own civilization, the property and labor of the Moqui husband and +wife are equally divided, the former owning and tending the fields and +flocks and the latter possessing and governing the house. + +The Moquis are famous for their games, dances and festivals, which have +been fully described by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes in various reports to the +Smithsonian Institution. They have many secret orders, worship the +supernatural, and believe in witchcraft. Their great fete day is the +Snake Dance, which is held in alternate years at Walpi and Oraibi, at +the former place in the odd year and at the latter place in the even +year, some time during the month of August. It is purely a religious +ceremony, an elaborate supplication for rain, and is designed to +propitiate the water god or snake deity. + +Preliminary ceremonies are conducted in the secret Kiva several days +preceding the public dance. The Kiva is an underground chamber that is +cut out of the solid rock, and is entered by a ladder. It has but a +single opening on top on a level with the street, which serves as door, +window and chimney. The room is only used by the men, and is, in fact, +a lodge room, where the members of the several secret orders meet and +engage in their solemn ceremonials. It is a sacred place, a holy of +holies, which none but members of a lodge may enter, and is carefully +guarded. + +The snakes used in the dance are all wild, and captured out on the open +plain. Four days prior to the dance the snake men, dressed in scanty +attire and equipped with their snake-capturing paraphernalia, march out +in squads and scour the surrounding country in search of snakes. One +day each is spent in searching the ground towards the four points of +the compass, in the order of north, west, south and east, returning at +the close of each day with their catch to the Kiva, where the snakes +are kept and prepared for the dance. The snakes caught are of several +varieties, but much the largest number are rattlesnakes. Respect is +shown for serpents of every variety and none are ever intentionally +harmed, but the rattlesnake is considered the most sacred and is +proportionately esteemed. Its forked tongue represents lightning, its +rattle thunder and its spots rain-clouds. The number of snakes they +find is surprising, as they catch from one to two hundred during the +four days' hunt on ground that might be carefully searched by white men +for months without finding a single reptile. + +The snake men are very expert in catching and handling serpents, and +are seldom bitten. If one is bitten it is nothing serious, as they +have a secret medicine which they use that is both prophylactic and +curative, and makes them immune to the poison so that no harm ever +results from a bite. The medicine is taken internally and also applied +locally. Efforts have been made to discover its composition but +without success. If a snake is located which shows fight by the act of +coiling it is tickled with a snake-whip made of eagle's feathers, which +soon soothes its anger and causes it to uncoil and try to run away. It +is then quickly and safely caught up and dropped from the hand into a +bag carried for that purpose. + +Visitors who attend the dance are under no restrictions, but are free +to come and go as they please, either sightseeing or in search of +curios. If the visitor has a supply of candy, matches and +smoking-tobacco to give away he finds frequent opportunities to bestow +his gifts. The children ask for "canty," the women want "matchi," and +the men are pleased with a "smoke." + +On the morning of the dance both the men and women give their hair an +extra washing by using a mixture of water and crushed soap-root. The +white fibers of the soap-root get mixed with the hair, which gives it a +tinge of iron gray. The children also get a bath which, because of the +great scarcity of water, is not of daily occurrence. + +To the Moquis the snake dance is a serious and solemn affair, but to +the visitors it is apt to be an occasion for fun and frolic. Owing to +a misunderstanding of its true meaning, and because of misconduct in +the past on similar occasions, notice is posted on the Kiva asking +visitors to abstain from loud laughing and talking. In other words it +is a polite request made by the rude red man of his polished (?) white +brother to please behave himself. + +The dance begins late in the afternoon and lasts less than one hour, +but while it is in progress the action is intense. The snakes are +carried in a bag or jar from the Kiva to the Kisa, built of cotton-wood +boughs on one side of the plaza, where the snakes are banded out to the +dancers. After much marching and countermarching about the plaza, +chanting weird songs and shaking rattles, the column of snake priests, +dressed in a fantastic garb of paint, fur and feathers, halts in front +of the Kisa and breaks up into groups of three. + +The carrier takes a snake from the Kisa puts it in his mouth, and +carries it there while dancing. Some of the more ambitious young men +will carry two or more of the smaller snakes at the same time. The +hugger throws his left arm over the shoulder of the carrier and with +his right hand fans the snake with his feather whip. The gatherer +follows after and picks up the snakes as they fall to the ground. + +After the snakes have all been danced they are thrown into a heap and +sprinkled with sacred corn meal by the young women. The scattering of +the meal is accompanied by a shower of spittle from the spectators, who +are stationed on, convenient roofs and ladders viewing the ceremony. +Fleet runners now catch up the snakes in handfuls and dash off in an +exciting race over the mesa and down rocky trails to the plains below +where the snakes are returned unharmed to their native haunts. + +While the men are away disposing of the reptiles the women carry out +large ollas, or jars, filled with a black liquid, which is the snake +medicine that is used in the final act of purification by washing. +When the men return to the mesa they remove their regalias and proceed +to drink of the snake medicine which acts as an emetic. With the +remainder of the concoction, and assisted by the women, they wash their +bodies free from paint. After the men are all washed and puked they +re-enter the Kiva, where the long fast is broken by a feast and the +formal ceremonies of the snake dance are ended. + +The snake dance is annually witnessed by many visitors who gather from +different sections of the country and even foreign lands. As there are +no hotels to entertain guests every visitor must provide his own outfit +for conveyance, eating and sleeping. Even water is scarce. Local +springs barely furnish enough water to supply the native population; +and when the number of people to be supplied is increased from one to +two hundred by the visitors who attend the dance, the water question +becomes a serious problem. + +On the lower portion of the road which leads up from the spring to the +gap at Walpi on the first mesa, the trail is over drifted sand which +makes difficult walking. To remedy this defect in the trail, a path +has been made of flat stones laid in the sand, which shows that the +Moquis are quick to recognize and utilize an advantage that contributes +to their convenience and comfort. + +The Santa Fe Pacific is the nearest railroad, which runs about one +hundred miles south of the Moqui villages. The tourist can secure +transportation at reasonable rates of local liverymen either from +Holbrook, Winslow, Canon Diablo or Flagstaff. The trip makes an +enjoyable outing that is full of interest and instruction from start to +finish. + +Some years ago the government, through its agents, began to civilize +and Christianize these Indians and established a school at Keam's +Canon, nine miles east of the first mesa, for that purpose. When the +school was opened the requisition for a specified number of children +from each pueblo was not filled until secured by force. As free +citizens of the United States, being such by the treaty made with +Mexico in 1848 and, indeed, already so under a system of +self-government superior to our own and established long before +Columbus discovered America, they naturally resented any interference +in their affairs but, being in the minority and overpowered, had to +submit. + +When the object of the school was explained to them, they consented to +receive secular instructions but objected to any religious teaching. +They asked to have schools opened in the pueblos on the plan of our +public schools where the children could attend during the day and +return home at night, and their home life be not broken up, but their +prayer was denied. + +The reservation school was opened for the purpose of instructing the +Moqui children in civilization, but the results obtained have not been +entirely satisfactory. The methods employed for enforcing discipline +have been unnecessarily severe and have given dissatisfaction. As +recently as the year 1903 the children of this inoffensive and harmless +people were forcibly taken from their homes and put into the schools. +The time selected for doing the dastardly deed was during the night in +midwinter when the weather was cold and the ground covered with snow. +Under the orders of the superintendent the reservation police made the +raid without warning or warrant of any kind. While the people slept, +the police entered their houses, dragged the little children from their +comfortable beds and drove them naked out into the snow and cold, where +they were rounded up and herded like cattle. + +The indignity and outrage of this and other similar acts have +embittered the Moquis until they have lost what little respect they +ever had for Christianity and civilization. The policy of the +government is to make them do whatever they do not want to do, to break +up the family and scatter its members. The treatment has created two +factions among the Moquis known as the "hostiles" who are only hostile +in opposing oppression and any change in their religious faith and +customs; and the "friendlies" who are willing to obey the boss placed +over them and comply with his demands. + +Religion is the dearest treasure of mankind, and when assailed always +finds ready defenders. Possessed by this innate feeling of right and +rankling with the injustice of the past, is it surprising that they +should spurn any proffered help? They remember what they have suffered +in the past and do not care to repeat the experiment. To this day the +Moquis hold the mission epoch in contempt and nothing could induce them +to accept voluntarily any proposition that savored ought of the old +regime. Every vestige of that period has been obliterated from the +pueblos that nothing tangible should remain to remind them of their +undeserved humiliation. + +They are a highly religious people worshiping after their own creed, +and are sincere and conscientious in their devotions. Almost +everything they do has some religious significance and every day its +religious observance. Their religion satisfies them and harms no one, +then why not leave them in peace? We believe that we can benefit them, +which is doubtless true, but might they not also teach us some useful +lessons? It would sometimes be more to our credit if we were less +anxious to teach others, and more willing to learn ourselves. + +Next to their religion they love their homes most. The rocks upon +which they live, are they not dear from associations? Is it not the +land of their birth and the home of their fathers during many +generations? They cling with stubborn tenacity to their barren mesas +and nothing thus far has succeeded in driving them away; neither war, +pestilence nor famine. Repeated attempts have been made to induce them +to leave, but without success. + +Tom Polaki, the principal man of Tewa, was the first man to respond to +the call to come down. He left the mesa several years ago, and went to +the plain below to live. Having captured the bell wether it was +presumed that the balance of the flock would soon follow, but the +contrary proved to be true. At the foot of the bluff near a spring on +the road that leads up to the gap Tom built a modern house and tried to +imitate the white man. But the change did not suit him, and after +living in his modern house for a number of years, he finally sold it +and returned to his old home on the mesa. A few others at different +times have tried the same experiment with no better success. The man +would stay for a short time in the house provided for him, but never +made it a permanent home for his family. + +That the Moquis are changing is best illustrated by reference to one of +their marriage customs. It is the custom when a youth contemplates +matrimony to make a marriage blanket. He grows the cotton, spins the +yarn and weaves the cloth, which requires a year or more of time to +finish. Since the children have gone to school it is not deemed +necessary for a young man to go to so much trouble and expense as to +make a marriage blanket, but instead, he borrows one from a friend in +the village, and after the ceremony is over returns it to the owner. +Even now it is not easy to find such a blanket, and very soon they will +be priceless as no more such garments will be made. + +The only reasonable explanation why any people should select a location +like that of the Moquis is on the hypothesis of choice. There is much +of the animal in human nature that is influenced by instinct, and man, +like the brute, often unconsciously selects what is most congenial to +his nature. Thus instinct teaches the eagle to nest on the highest +crag and the mountain sheep to browse in pastures which only the +hardiest hunter dare approach. For no better reason, apparently, do +the Moquis occupy their barren mesas; they simply prefer to live there +above any other place. + +Safety has been urged as a motive for their conduct but it alone is not +a sufficient reason for solving the problem. Their position is safe +enough from attack but in the event of a siege their safety would only +be temporary. With their scant water supply at a distance and +unprotected they could not hold out long in a siege, but would soon be +compelled either to fight, fly or famish. + +Again, if safety was their only reason for staying, they could have +left long ago and had nothing to fear, as they have been for many years +at peace with their ancient enemy the predatory Navajo. But rather +than go they have chosen to remain in their old home where they have +always lived, and will continue to live so long as they are left free +to choose. + +The modern iconoclast in his unreasonable devotion to realism has, +perhaps, stripped them of much old time romance, but even with all of +that gone, enough of fact remains to make them a remarkable people. +Instead of seeking to change them this last bit of harmless aboriginal +life should be spared and preserved, if possible, in all of its native +purity and simplicity. + + +[1] The American Race, by D. G. Brinton, 1891. + +[2] The Gilded Man, by A. F. Bandelier, 1893. + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +A FINE CLIMATE + +The climate of Arizona as described in the local vernacular is "sure +fine." The combination of elements which make the climate is unusual +and cannot be duplicated elsewhere upon the American continent. The +air is remarkably pure and dry. Siccity, indeed, is its distinguishing +feature. That the climate is due to geographical and meteorological +conditions cannot be doubted, but the effects are unexplainable by any +ordinary rules. + +The region involved not only embraces Arizona, but also includes +portions of California and Mexico and is commonly known as the Colorado +Desert. Yuma, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, is +approximately its geographical center. The general aspect of the +country is low and flat and in the Salton sink the dry land dips +several hundred feet below the level of the ocean. Only by extreme +siccity is such land possible when more water rises in evaporation than +falls by precipitation. There are but few such places in the world, +the deepest one being the Dead Sea, which is about thirteen hundred +feet lower than the ocean. + +The Colorado Basin is the dry bed of an ancient sea whose shore line is +yet visible in many places upon the sides of the mountains which +surround it. Its floor is composed of clay with deposits of sand and +salt. Strong winds sometimes sweep over it that shift and pile up the +sand in great dunes. The entire region is utterly bare and desolate, +yet by the use of water diverted from the Colorado river it is being +reclaimed to agriculture. + +The rainfall is very scant the average annual precipitation at Yuma +being less than three inches. The climate is not dry from any lack of +surface water, as it has the Gila and Colorado rivers, the Gulf of +California and the broad Pacific Ocean to draw from. But the singular +fact remains that the country is extremely dry and that it does not +rain as in other lands. + +Neither is the rainfall deficient from any lack of evaporation. Upon +the contrary the evaporation is excessive and according to the estimate +of Major Powell amounts fully to one hundred inches of water per annum. +If the vapors arising from this enormous evaporation should all be +condensed into clouds and converted into rain it would create a rainy +season that would last throughout the year. + +The humidity caused by an abundant rainfall in any low, hot country is +usually enough to unfit it for human habitation. The combined effect +of heat and moisture upon a fertile soil causes an excess of both +growing and decaying vegetation that fills the atmosphere with noxious +vapors and disease producing germs. The sultry air is so oppressive +that it is more than physical endurance can bear. The particles of +vapor which float in the atmosphere absorb and hold the heat until it +becomes like a steaming hot blanket that is death to unacclimated life. +All of this is changed where siccity prevails. The rapid evaporation +quickly dispels the vapors and the dry heat desiccates the disease +creating germs and makes them innocuous. + +The effect of heat upon the body is measured by the difference in the +actual and sensible temperatures, as recorded by the dry and wet bulb +thermometers. When both stand nearly together as they are apt to do in +a humid atmosphere, the heat becomes insufferable. In the dry climate +of Arizona such a condition cannot occur. The difference in the two +instruments is always great, often as much as forty degrees. For this +reason, a temperature of 118 degrees F. at Yuma is less oppressive than +98 degrees F. is in New York. A low relative humidity gives comfort +and freedom from sunstroke even when the thermometer registers the +shade temperature in three figures. + +A dry, warm climate is a stimulant to the cutaneous function. The skin +is an important excreting organ that is furnished with a large number +of sweat glands which are for the dual purpose of furnishing moisture +for cooling the body by evaporation and the elimination of worn out and +waste material from the organism. As an organ it is not easily injured +by over work, but readily lends its function in an emergency in any +effort to relieve other tired or diseased organs of the body. By +vicarious action the skin is capable of performing much extra labor +without injury to itself and can be harnessed temporarily for the +relief of some vital part which has become crippled until its function +can be restored. + +A diseased kidney depends particularly upon the skin for succor more +than any other organ. When the kidneys from any cause fail to act the +skin comes to their rescue and throws off impurities which nature +intended should go by the renal route. For this reason diabetes and +albuminuria, the most stubborn of all kidney diseases, are usually +benefited by a dry, warm climate. The benefit derived is due to an +increase of the insensible transpiration rather than to profuse +perspiration. The air of Arizona is so dry and evaporation so rapid +that an increase in perspiration is scarcely noticeable except when it +is confined by impervious clothing. The disagreeable feeling of wet +clothes which accompanies profuse perspiration in a damp climate is +changed to an agreeable sensation of coolness in a dry one. + +The atmosphere of Arizona is not only dry but also very electrical, so +much so, indeed, that at times it becomes almost painful. Whenever the +experiment is tried, sparks can be produced by friction or the handling +of metal, hair or wool. It affects animals as well as man, and +literally causes "the hair to stand on end." The writer has on various +occasions seen a string of horses standing close together at a +watering-trough, drinking, so full of electricity that their manes and +tails were spread out and floated in the air, and the long hairs drawn +by magnetic attraction from one animal to the other all down the line +in a spontaneous effort to complete a circuit. There are times when +the free electricity in the air is so abundant that every object +becomes charged with the fluid, and it cannot escape fast enough or +find "a way out" by any adequate conductor. The effects of such an +excess of electricity is decidedly unpleasant on the nerves, and causes +annoying irritability and nervousness. + +The hot sun sometimes blisters the skin and burns the complexion to a +rich, nut-brown color, but the air always feels soft and balmy, and +usually blows only in gentle zephyrs. The air has a pungent fragrance +which is peculiar to the desert, that is the mingled product of a +variety of resinous plants. The weather is uniformly pleasant, and the +elements are rarely violently disturbed. + +In the older settled sections of our country, whenever there is any +sudden or extreme change in the weather of either heat or cold, wet or +dry, it is always followed by an increase of sickness and death. The +aged and invalid, who are sensitive and weak, suffer mostly, as they +feel every change in the weather. There is, perhaps, no place on earth +that can boast of a perfect climate, but the country that can show the +fewest and mildest extremes approaches nearest to the ideal. The +southwest is exceptionally favored in its climatic conditions, and is +beneficial to the majority of chronic invalids. + +Atmospheric pressure is greatest near the earth's surface, and exerts a +controlling influence over the vital functions. Atmospheric pressure +is to the body what the governor is to the steam engine, or the +pendulum to the clock. It regulates vital action, insures safety and +lessens the wear and tear of machinery. Under its soothing influence +the number of respirations per minute are diminished, the heart beats +decreased in frequency, and the tired brain and nerves rested. It is +often better than medicine, and will sometimes give relief when all +other means fail. + +Arizona has a diversity of altitudes, and therefore furnishes a variety +of climates. The elevations range from about sea level at Yuma to +nearly thirteen thousand feet upon the San Francisco mountains. By +making suitable changes in altitude to fit the season it is possible to +enjoy perpetual spring. + +Because Arizona is far south geographically it is only natural to +suppose that it is all very hot, which is a mistake. In the low +valleys of southern Arizona the summers are hot, but it is a dry heat +which is not oppressive, and the winters are delightfully pleasant. In +northern Arizona the winters are cold and the summers cool. There is +no finer summer climate in the world than is found on the high plateaus +and pine-topped mountains of northern Arizona. Prescott, Williams and +Flagstaff have a charming summer climate, while at Yuma, Phoenix and +Tucson the winter weather is simply perfect. + +A mountain residence is not desirable for thin, nervous people or such +as are afflicted with any organic disease. A high altitude is too +stimulating for this class of patients and tends to increase +nervousness and aggravates organic disease. Such persons should seek a +coast climate and a low altitude, which is sedative, rather than risk +the high and dry interior. Any coast climate is better than the +mountains for nervous people, but the Pacific Coast is preferable to +any other because of its freedom from electrical storms and every other +form of disagreeable meteorological disturbance that tries the nerves. +The nervousness that is produced by a high altitude does not, as a +rule, develop suddenly, but grows gradually upon the patient. Those of +a sensitive nature feel it most and women more than men. After making +a change from a low to a high altitude sleep may be sound for a time, +but it soon becomes fitful and unrefreshing. + +It has been discovered that altitude increases the amount of +hemoglobulin and thus enriches the blood and is particularly beneficial +to pale, thin people. It also sharpens the appetite and promotes +digestion and assimilation. + +Persons suffering from rheumatism, neuralgia, advanced pulmonary +consumption, organic heart disease and all disorders of the brain and +nerves should avoid a high altitude. Patients that are afflicted with +any of the above-mentioned diseases are more comfortable in a low +altitude and should choose between the coast of California and the low, +dry lands of the lower Gila and Colorado rivers, according to the +season of the year and the quality of climate desired. + +The diseases which are especially benefited by the climate of Arizona +are consumption, bronchitis, catarrh and hay fever. Anyone going in +search of health who has improved by the change should remain where the +improvement took place lest by returning home and being again subjected +to the former climatic conditions which caused the disease the +improvement be lost and the old disease re-established with increased +severity. + +Most sick people who are in need of a change live in a humid atmosphere +where the winters are extremely cold and the summers uncomfortably hot, +and to be benefited by a change must seek a climate in which the +opposite conditions prevail. The climate of the southwest furnishes +just what such invalids require. The sick who need cold or damp +weather, if there be any such, can be accommodated almost anywhere, but +those who want a warm, dry climate must go where it can be found. Not +every invalid who goes in search of health finds a cure, as many who +start on such a journey are already past help when they leave home. +When a case is hopeless the patient should not undertake such a trip, +but remain quietly at home and die in peace among friends. + +As already intimated the climate of the Colorado basin is ideal in +winter, but becomes very hot in summer. Its low altitude, rainless +days, cloudless skies and balmy air form a combination that is +unsurpassed and is enjoyed by all either sick or well. The heat of +summer does not create sickness, but becomes monotonous and tiresome +from its steady and long continuance. Many residents of the Territory +who tire of the heat and can afford the trip take a vacation during the +summer months and either go north to the Grand Canon and the mountains +or to the Pacific Coast. Every summer witnesses a hegira of sun baked +people fleeing from the hot desert to the mountains or ocean shore in +search of coolness and comfort. + +Life in the tropics, perhaps, inclines to indolence and languor, +particularly if the atmosphere is humid, but in a dry climate like that +of Arizona the heat, although sometimes great, is never oppressive or +debilitating. It has its lazy people like any other country and for +the same reason that there are always some who were born tired and +never outgrow the tired feeling, but Arizona climate is more bracing +than enervating. + +The adobe house of the Mexican is a peculiar institution of the +southwest. It may be interesting on account of its past history, but +it is certainly not pretty. It is nothing more than a box of dried +mud with its roof, walls and floor all made of dirt. It is never free +from a disagreeable earthy smell which, if mingled with the added odors +of stale smoke and filth, as is often the case, makes the air simply +vile. The house can never be kept tidy because of the dirt which falls +from the adobe, unless the walls and ceilings are plastered and +whitewashed, which is sometimes done in the better class of houses. If +the house is well built it is comfortable enough in pleasant weather, +but as often as it rains the dirt roof springs a leak and splashes +water and mud over everything. If by chance the house stands on low +ground and is surrounded by water, as sometimes happens, after a heavy +rain the walls become soaked and dissolved into mud when the house +collapses. The adobe house may have been suited to the wants of a +primitive people, but in the present age of improvement, it is scarcely +worth saving except it be as a relic of a vanishing race. + +In order to escape in a measure the discomforts of the midday heat the +natives either seek the shade in the open air where the breeze blows, +or, what is more common, close up tight the adobe house in the morning +and remain indoors until the intense heat from the scorching sun +penetrates the thick walls, which causes the inmates to move out. In +the cool of the evening they visit and transact business and when the +hour comes for retiring go to bed on cots made up out of doors where +they sleep until morning, while the house is left open to cool off +during the night. This process is repeated every day during the hot +summer months and is endured without complaint. + +The natives, also, take advantage of the dry air to operate a novel +method of refrigeration. The cloth covered army canteen soaked in +water and the handy water jug of the eastern harvest field wrapped in a +wet blanket are familiar examples of an ineffectual attempt at +refrigeration by evaporation. But natural refrigeration find its best +illustration in the arid regions of the southwest by the use of an +olla, which is a vessel made of porous pottery, a stout canvas bag or a +closely woven Indian basket. A suitable vessel is selected, filled +with water and suspended somewhere in midair in the shade. If it is +hung in a current of air it is all the better, as any movement of the +atmosphere facilitates evaporation. A slow seepage of water filters +through the open pores of the vessel which immediately evaporates in +the dry air and lowers the temperature. The water in the olla soon +becomes cold and if properly protected will remain cool during the +entire day. + +The dry air also acts as a valuable preservative. During the winter, +when the weather is cool but not freezing, if fresh meat is hung out in +the open air, it will keep sweet a long time. A dry crust soon forms +upon its surface which hermetically seals the meat from the air and +keeps it perfectly sweet. In the summer it is necessary to dry the +meat more quickly to keep it from spoiling. It is then made into +"jerky" by cutting it into long, thin strips and hanging them up in the +sun to dry. After it is thoroughly dried, it is tied up in bags and +used as needed, either by eating it dry from the pocket when out on a +tramp, or, if in camp, serving it in a hot stew. + +Even the carcass of a dead animal that is left exposed upon the ground +to decompose does not moulder away by the usual process of decay, but +what is left of the body after the hungry buzzards and coyotes have +finished their feast, dries up into a mummy that lasts for years. + +Climate everywhere unquestionably influences life in its evolution, but +it is not always easy to determine all of its effects in detail. In +Arizona, which is but a comparatively small corner of our country, live +several races of men that are as different from each other as nature +could make them, yet all live in the same climate. + +The Pueblo Indian is in a manner civilized, peaceable and industrious. +He is brave in self-defense, but never seeks war nor bloodshed. Quite +different is his near neighbor, the bloodthirsty Apache, who seems to +delight only in robbing and killing people. Cunning and revenge are +pronounced traits of his character and the Government has found him +difficult to conquer or control. The Mexican leads a shiftless, +thriftless life and seems satisfied merely to exist. He has, +unfortunately, inherited more of the baser than the better qualities of +his ancestors, and, to all appearance, is destined to further +degenerate. The American is the last comer and has already pushed +civilization and commerce into the remotest corners and, as usual, +dominates the land. + +As diverse as are these several races in many respects, each one of +them furnishes splendid specimens of physical manhood. The Indian has +always been noted for his fine physique, and is large bodied, well +muscled and full chested. One advantage which the southwest has over +other countries is that the climate is mild and favorable to an outdoor +life, which is conducive to health and physical development. + +No single race of men flourish equally well everywhere, but each one is +affected by its own surroundings; and, what is true of a race, is also +true of an individual. The pioneer in any country is always an +interesting character, but he differs in peculiarities according to his +environment of mountain, plain or forest. Occupation also exerts an +influence and in time develops distinct types like the trapper, miner, +soldier and cowboy, that only the graphic pencil of a Remington can +accurately portray. The eccentricities of character which are +sometimes met in men who dwell on the frontier are not always due alone +to disposition, but are largely the product of the wild life which they +live, that inclines them to be restless, reckless and even desperate. + +There is no better field for observing and studying the effects of +environment upon human life than is furnished by the arid region of the +southwest. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARIZONA SKETCHES *** + +***** This file should be named 756.txt or 756.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/7/5/756/ + +Produced by Dianne Bean. 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If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Association / Benedictine + University" within the 60 days following each + date you prepare (or were legally required to prepare) + your annual (or equivalent periodic) tax return. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +The Project gratefully accepts contributions in money, time, +scanning machines, OCR software, public domain etexts, royalty +free copyright licenses, and every other sort of contribution +you can think of. Money should be paid to "Project Gutenberg +Association / Benedictine University". + + + + + +*END*THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + + +ARIZONA SKETCHES by Joseph A. Munk + + + + + +CHAPTER + +I. A ROMANTIC LAND +II. MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA +III. THE OPEN RANGE +IV. RANCH LIFE +V. THE ROUND-UP +VI. RANCH HAPPENINGS +VII. A MODEL RANCH +VIII. SOME DESERT PLANTS +IX. HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS +X. CANON ECHOES +XI. THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN +XII. THE CLIFF DWELLERS +XIII. THE MOQUI INDIANS +XIV. A FINE CLIMATE + + + + +CHAPTER I +A ROMANTIC LAND + +A stranger on first entering Arizona is impressed with the +newness and wildness that surrounds him. Indeed, the change is +so great that it seems like going to sleep and waking up in a +new world. Everything that he sees is different from the +familiar objects of his home, and he is filled with wonder and +amazement at the many curious things that are brought to his +notice. Judging the country by what is common back east, the +average man is disappointed and prejudiced against what he sees; +but, estimated on its merits, it is found to be a land of many +attractions and great possibilities. + +A hasty trip through the country by rail gives no adequate idea +of its intrinsic value, as such a limited view only affords a +superficial glimpse of what should be leisurely and carefully +examined to be properly understood or appreciated. At the first +glance it presents the appearance of a desert, but to one who is +acquainted with its peculiarities it is by no means desolate. It +furnishes a strong contrast to the rolling woodlands of the far +east, and to the boundless prairies of the middle west; and, +though it may never develop on the plan of the older states, like +California, it has an individuality and charm of its own; and its +endowment of natural wealth and beauty requires no borrowing from +neighbors to give it character or success. + +It has grand scenery, a salubrious climate, productive soil, rich +mineral deposits and rare archaeological remains. It also has a +diversified fauna and flora. The peccary, Gila monster, +tarantula, centipede, scorpion and horned toad are specimens of +its strange animal life; and, the numerous species of cacti, +yucca, maguey, palo verde and mistletoe are samples of its +curious vegetation. It is, indeed, the scientist's Paradise +where much valuable material can be found to enrich almost every +branch of natural science. + +Hitherto its growth has been greatly retarded by its remote +position in Uncle Sam's domain; but, with the comparatively +recent advent of the railroad, the influx of capital and +population, and the suppression of the once dreaded and +troublesome Apache, a new life has been awakened that is destined +to redeem the country from its ancient lethargy and make it a +land of promise to many home seekers and settlers. + +When the Spaniards under Coronado first entered the land more +than three hundred and fifty years ago in search of the seven +cities of Cibola, they found upon the desert sufficient evidence +of an extinct race to prove that the land was once densely +populated by an agricultural and prosperous people. When or how +the inhabitants disappeared is unknown and may never be known. +It is even in doubt who they were, but, presumably, they were of +the Aztec or Toltec race; or, perhaps, of some civilization even +more remote. + +The Pueblo Indians are supposed to be their descendants, but, if +so, they were, when first found, as ignorant of their ancestors +as they were of their discoverers. When questioned as to the +past they could give no intelligent answer as to their +antecedents, but claimed that what the white man saw was the work +of Montezuma. All that is known of this ancient people is what +the ruins show, as they left no written record or even tradition +of their life, unless it be some inscriptions consisting of +various hieroglyphics and pictographs that are found painted upon +the rocks, which undoubtedly have a meaning, but for lack of +interpretation remain a sealed book. The deep mystery in which +they are shrouded makes their history all the more interesting +and gives unlimited scope for speculation. + +Arizona is a land that is full of history as well as mystery and +invites investigation. It has a fascination that every one +feels who crosses its border. Paradoxical as it may seem it is +both the oldest and newest portion of our country--the oldest in +ancient occupation and civilization and the newest in modern +progress. In natural wonders it boasts of the Grand Canon of +Arizona, the painted desert, petrified forest, meteorite +mountain, natural bridge, Montezuma's well and many other marvels +of nature. There are also ruins galore, the cave and cliff +dwellings, crumbled pueblos, extensive acequias, painted rocks, +the casa grande and old Spanish missions. Anyone who is in +search of the old and curious, need not go to foreign lands, but +can find right here at home in Arizona and the southwest, a +greater number and variety of curiosities than can be found in +the same space anywhere else upon the globe. + +Arizona is a land of strong contrasts and constant surprises, +where unusual conditions prevail and the unexpected frequently +happens. + +From the high Colorado plateau of northern Arizona the land +slopes toward the southwest to the Gulf of California. Across +this long slope of several hundred miles in width, numerous +mountain ranges stretch from the northwest to the southeast. +Through the middle of the Territory from east to west, flows the +Gila river to its confluence with the Colorado. This stream +marks the dividing line between the mountains which descend from +the north and those that extend south, which increase in altitude +and extent until they culminate in the grand Sierra Madres of +Mexico. + +The traveler in passing through the country never gets entirely +out of the sight of mountains. They rise up all about him and +bound the horizon near and far in every direction. In riding +along he always seems to be approaching some distant mountain +barrier that ever recedes before him as he advances. He is never +clear of the encircling mountains for, as often as he passes out +of one enclosure through a gap in the mountains, he finds himself +hemmed in again by a new one. The peculiarity of always being in +the midst of mountains and yet never completely surrounded, is +due to an arrangement of dovetailing or overlapping in their +formation. His winding way leads him across barren wastes, +through fertile valleys, among rolling hills and into sheltered +parks, which combine an endless variety of attractive scenery. + +An Arizona landscape, though mostly of a desert type, is yet full +of interest to the lover of nature. It presents a strangely +fascinating view, that once seen, will never be forgotten. It +stirs a rapture in the soul that only nature can inspire. + +Looking out from some commanding eminence, a wide spreading and +diversified landscape is presented to view. Though hard and +rugged, the picture, as seen at a distance, looks soft and smooth +and its details of form and color make an absorbing study. + +The eye is quick to note the different hues that appear in the +field of vision and readily selects five predominating colors, +namely, gray, green, brown, purple and blue, which mingle +harmoniously in various combinations with almost every other +color that is known. The most brilliant lights, sombre shadows, +exquisite tints and delicate tones are seen which, if put on +canvas and judged by the ordinary, would be pronounced +exaggerated and impossible by those unfamiliar with the original. + +The prevailing color is gray, made by the dry grass and sandy +soil, and extends in every direction to the limit of vision. The +gramma grass of the and region grows quickly and turns gray +instead of brown, as grasses usually do when they mature. It +gives to the landscape a subdued and quiet color, which is +pleasing to the eye and makes the ideal background in a picture. + +Into this warp of gray is woven a woof of green, spreading in +irregular patches in all directions. It is made by the +chaparral, which is composed of a variety of desert plants that +are native to the soil and can live on very little water. It +consists of live oak, pinion, mesquite, desert willow, +greasewood, sage brush, palmilla, maguey, yucca and cacti and is +mostly evergreen. + +The admixture of gray and green prevails throughout the year +except during the summer rainy season, when, if the rains are +abundant, the gray disappears almost entirely, and the young +grass springs up as by magic, covering the whole country with a +carpet of living green. In the midst of the billowy grass +myriads of wild flowers bloom, and stand single or shoulder to +shoulder in masses of solid color by the acre. + +Upon the far mountains is seen the sombre brown in the bare +rocks. The whole region was at one time violently disturbed by +seismic force and the glow of its quenched fires has even yet +scarcely faded away. Large masses of igneous rocks and broad +streams of vitrified lava bear mute testimony of the change, +when, by some mighty subterranean force, the tumultuous sea was +rolled back from its pristine bed and, in its stead, lofty +mountains lifted their bald beads above the surrounding +desolation, and stand to-day as they have stood in massive +grandeur ever since the ancient days of their upheaval. Rugged +and bleak they tower high, or take the form of pillar, spire and +dome, in some seemingly well-constructed edifice erected by the +hand of man. But the mountains are not all barren. Vast areas +of fertile soil flank the bare rocks where vegetation has taken +root, and large fields of forage and extensive forests of oak +and pine add value and beauty to the land. + +The atmosphere is a striking feature of the country that is as +pleasing to the eye as it is invigorating to the body. Over +all the landscape hangs a veil of soft, purple haze that is +bewitching. It gives to the scene a mysterious, subtle +something that is exquisite and holds the senses in a magic spell +of enchantment. + +Distance also is deceptive and cannot be estimated as under other +skies. The far-off mountains are brought near and made to glow +in a halo of mellow light. Manifold ocular illusions appear in +the mirage and deceive the uninitiated. An indefinable dreamy +something steals over the senses and enthralls the soul. + +Arching heaven's high dome is a sky of intense blue that looks so +wonderfully clear and deep that even far-famed Italy cannot +surpass it. The nights are invariably clear and the moon and +stars appear unusually bright. The air is so pure that the stars +seem to be advanced in magnitude and can be seen quite low down +upon the horizon. + +The changing lights that flash in the sky transform both the +sunrise and sunset into marvels of beauty. In the mellow +afterglow of the sunset, on the western sky, stream long banners +of light, and fleecy clouds of gold melt away and fade in the +twilight. + +At midday in the hazy distance, moving slowly down the valley, +can be seen spiral columns of dust that resemble pillars of +smoke. They ascend perpendicularly, incline like Pisa's leaning +tower, or are beat at various angles, but always retaining the +columnar form. They rise to great heights and vanish in space. +These spectral forms are caused by small local whirlwinds when +the air is otherwise calm, and are, apparently, without purpose, +unless they are intended merely to amuse the casual observer. + +A cloudy day is rare and does not necessarily signify rain. +Usually the clouds are of the cumulus variety and roll leisurely +by in billowy masses. Being in a droughty land the clouds always +attract attention viewed either from an artistic or utilitarian +standpoint. When out on parade they float lazily across the sky, +casting their moving shadows below. The figures resemble a +mammoth pattern of crazy patchwork in a state of evolution spread +out for inspection. + +The impression that is made while looking out upon such a scene +is that of deep silence. Everything is hushed and still; but, by +listening attentively, the number of faint sounds that reach the +ear in an undertone is surprising. The soft soughing of the wind +in the trees; the gentle rustle of the grass as it is swayed by +the passing breeze; the musical ripple of water as it gurgles +from the spring; the piping of the quail as it calls to its mate; +the twitter of little birds flitting from bush to bough; the +chirp of the cricket and drone of the beetle are among the sounds +that are heard and fall soothingly upon the ear. + +The trees growing upon the hillside bear a striking resemblance +to an old orchard and are a reminder of home where in childhood +the hand delighted to pluck luscious fruit from drooping boughs. +A walk among the trees makes it easy to imagine that you are in +some such familiar but neglected haunt, and instinctively you +look about expecting to see the old house that was once called +home and hear the welcome voice and footfall of cherished memory. +It is no little disappointment to be roused from such a reverie +to find the resemblance only a delusion and the spot deserted. +Forsaken as it has been for many years by the native savage +Indians and prowling wild beasts, the land waits in silence and +patience the coming of the husbandman. + + + +CHAPTER II +MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA + +I recall with vivid distinctness my first trip to Arizona and +introduction to ranch life in the spring of 1884. The experience +made a deep impression and has led me to repeat the visit many +times since then, with increased interest and pleasure. + +During the previous year my brother located a cattle ranch for us +in Railroad Pass in southeastern Arizona. The gap is one of a +series of natural depressions in a succession of mountain chains +on the thirty-second parallel route, all the way from New Orleans +to San Francisco over a distance of nearly twenty-five hundred +miles. The Southern Pacific Railroad is built upon this route +and has the easiest grade of any transcontinental line. + +Railroad Pass is a wide break between two mountain ranges and is +a fine grazing section. It is handsomely bounded and presents a +magnificent view. To the north are the Pinaleno mountains, with +towering Mt. Graham in their midst, that are nearly eleven +thousand feet high and lie dark in the shadows of their dense +pine forests. Far to the south rise the rugged Chiricahuas, and +nearby stands bald Dos Cabezas, whose giant double head of +granite can be seen as a conspicuous landmark over a wide scope +of country. The distance across the Pass as the crow flies is, +perhaps, fifty miles. Beyond these peaks other mountains rise in +majestic grandeur and bound the horizon in every direction. + +At the time that the ranch was located the Pass country was +considered uninhabitable because of the scarcity of water and the +presence of hostile Indians. No permanent spring nor stream of +water was known to exist in that whole region, but fine gramma +grass grew everywhere. Its suitability as a cattle range was +recognized and caused it to be thoroughly prospected for water, +which resulted in the discovery of several hidden springs. All +of the springs found, but one, were insignificant and either soon +went dry or fluctuated with the seasons; but the big spring, +known as Pinaleno, was worth finding, and flows a constant stream +of pure, soft water that fills a four-inch iron pipe. + +When the spring was discovered not a drop of water was visible +upon the surface, and a patch of willows was the only indication +of concealed moisture. By sinking a shallow well only a few feet +deep among the willows, water was struck as it flowed through +coarse gravel over a buried ledge of rock that forced the water +up nearly to the surface only to sink again in the sand without +being seen. A ditch was dug to the well from below and an iron +pipe laid in the trench, through which the water is conducted +into a reservoir that supplies the water troughs. + +Again, when the ranch was opened the Indians were bad in the +vicinity and had been actively hostile for some time. The ranch +is on a part of the old Chiricahua reservation that was once the +home and hunting grounds of the tribe of Chiricahua Apaches, the +most bold and warlike of all the southwest Indians. Cochise was +their greatest warrior, but he was only one among many able +Apache chieftains. He was at one time the friend of the white +man, but treachery aroused his hatred and caused him to seek +revenge on every white man that crossed his path. + +His favorite haunt was Apache Pass, a convenient spot that was +favorable for concealment, where he lay in wait for weary +travelers who passed that way in search of water and a pleasant +camp ground. If attacked by a superior force, as sometimes +happened, he invariably retreated across the Sulphur Spring +valley into his stronghold in the Dragoon mountains. + +Because of the many atrocities that were committed by the +Indians, white men were afraid to go into that country to settle. +Even as late as in the early eighties when that prince of +rascals, the wily Geronimo, made his bloody raids through +southern Arizona, the men who did venture in and located ranch +and mining claims, lived in daily peril of their lives which, in +not a few instances, were paid as a forfeit to their daring. + +The Butterfield stage and all other overland travel to California +by the southern route before the railroads were built, went +through Apache Pass. Although it was the worst Indian infested +section in the southwest, travelers chose that dangerous route in +preference to any other for the sake of the water that they knew +could always be found there. + +The reputation of Apache Pass, finally became so notoriously +bad because of the many murders committed that the Government, +late in the sixties, built and garrisoned Ft. Bowie for the +protection of travelers and settlers. The troops stationed at +the post endured much hardship and fought many bloody battles +before the Indians were conquered. Many soldiers were killed and +buried in a little graveyard near the fort. When the fort was +abandoned a few years ago, their bodies were disinterred and +removed to the National cemetery at Washington. + +Railroad Pass is naturally a better wagon road than Apache Pass, +but is without water. It was named by Lieut. J. G. Parke in 1855 +while engaged in surveying for the Pacific Railroad, because of +its easy grade and facility for railroad construction. + +I timed my visit to correspond with the arrival at Bowie station +on the Southern Pacific Railroad, of a consignment of ranch goods +that had been shipped from St. Louis. I was met at the depot by +the ranch force, who immediately proceeded to initiate me as a +tenderfoot. I inquired of one of the cowboys how far it was to a +near-by mountain. He gave a quien sabe shrug of the shoulder and +answered me in Yankee fashion by asking how far I thought it was. +Estimating the distance as in a prairie country I replied, "Oh, +about a mile." He laughed and said that the mountain was fully +five miles distant by actual measurement. I had unwittingly +taken my first lesson in plainscraft and prudently refrained +thereafter from making another sure guess. + +The deception was due to the rarefied atmosphere, which is +peculiar to the arid region. It not only deceives the eye as to +distance, but also as to motion. If the eye is steadily fixed +upon some distant inanimate object, it seems to move in the +tremulous light as if possessed of life, and it is not always +easy to be convinced to the contrary. However, by putting the +object under inspection in line with some further object, it can +readily be determined whether the object is animate or still by +its remaining on or moving off the line. + +Another peculiarity of the country is that objects do not always +seem to stand square with the world. In approaching a mountain +and moving on an up grade the plane of incline is suddenly +reversed and gives the appearance and sensation of going +downhill. In some inexplicable manner sense and reason seem to +conflict and the discovery of the disturbed relation of things is +startling. You know very well that the mountain ahead is above +you, but it has the appearance of standing below you in a hollow; +and the water in the brook at your feet, which runs down the +mountain into the valley, seems to be running uphill. By turning +squarely about and looking backwards, the misplaced objects +become righted, and produces much the same sensation that a man +feels who is lost and suddenly finds himself again. + +We immediately prepared to drive out to the ranch, which was ten +miles distant and reached by a road that skirted the Dos Cabezas +mountains. The new wagon was set up and put in running order and +lightly loaded with supplies. All of the preliminaries being +completed, the horses were harnessed and hooked to the wagon. +The driver mounted his seat, drew rein and cracked his whip, but +we didn't go. The horses were only accustomed to the saddle and +knew nothing about pulling in harness. Sam was a condemned +cavalry horse and Box was a native bronco, and being hitched to a +wagon was a new experience to both. The start was unpropitious, +but, acting on the old adage that "necessity is the mother of +invention," which truth is nowhere better exemplified than on the +frontier where conveniences are few and the most must be made of +everything, after some delay and considerable maneuvering we +finally got started. + +The road for some distance out was level and smooth and our +progress satisfactory. As we drove leisurely along I improved +the opportunity to look about and see the sights. It was a +perfect day in April and there never was a brighter sky nor +balmier air than beamed and breathed upon us. The air was soft +and tremulous with a magical light that produced startling +phantasmagoric effects. + +It was my first sight of a mirage and it naturally excited my +curiosity. It seemed as if a forest had suddenly sprung up +in the San Simon valley where just before had appeared only bare +ground. With every change in the angle of vision as we journeyed +on, there occurred a corresponding change in the scene before us +that produced a charming kaleidoscopic effect. The rough +mountain was transformed into a symmetrical city and the dry +valley into a lake of sparkling water,--all seeming to be the +work of magic in some fairyland of enchantment. + +In a ledge of granite rock by the wayside were cut a number of +round holes which the Indians had made and used as mills for +grinding their corn and seeds into meal. Nearby also, were some +mescal pits used for baking the agave, a native plant that is in +great demand as food by the Indians. The spot was evidently an +old rendezvous where the marauding Apaches were accustomed to +meet in council to plan their bloody raids, and to feast on +mescal and pinole in honor of some successful foray or victory +over an enemy. + +We next crossed several well-worn Indian trails which the Apaches +had made by many years of travel to and fro between their +rancherias in the Mogollon mountains and Mexico. The sight of +these trails brought us back to real life and a conscious sense +of danger, for were we not in an enemy's country and in the midst +of hostile Indians? Nearly every mile of road traveled had been +at some time in the past the scene of a bloody tragedy enacted by +a savage foe. Even at that very time the Apaches were out on the +warpath murdering people, but fortunately we did not meet them +and escaped unmolested. + +The road now crossed a low hill, which was the signal for more +trouble. The team started bravely up the incline, but soon +stopped and then balked and all urging with whip and voice failed +to make any impression. After several ineffectual attempts to +proceed it was decided not to waste any more time in futile +efforts. The horses were unhitched and the wagon partly +unloaded, when all hands by a united pull and push succeeded in +getting the wagon up the hill. After reloading no difficulty was +experienced in making a fresh start on a down grade, but a little +farther on a second and larger hill was encountered, when the +failure to scale its summit was even greater than the first. No +amount of coaxing or urging budged the horses an inch. They +simply were stubborn and would not pull. + +Night was approaching and camp was yet some distance ahead. The +driver suggested that the best thing to do under the +circumstances was for the rest of us to take the led horses and +ride on to camp, while he would remain with the wagon and, if +necessary, camp out all night. We reluctantly took his advice, +mounted our horses and finished our journey in the twilight. +Aaron, who was housekeeper at the ranch, gave us a hearty welcome +and invited us to sit down to a bountiful supper which he had +prepared in anticipation of our coming. Feeling weary after our +ride we retired early and were soon sound asleep. The only +thing that disturbed our slumbers during the night was a coyote +concert which, as a "concord of sweet sounds was a dismal +failure" but as a medley of discordant sounds was a decided +success. The bark of the coyote is particularly shrill and sharp +and a single coyote when in full cry sounds like a chorus of +howling curs. + +We were all up and out early the next morning to witness the +birth of a new day. The sunrise was glorious, and bright +colors in many hues flashed across the sky. The valley echoed +with the cheerful notes of the mocking bird and the soft air was +filled with the fragrance of wild flowers. The scene was grandly +inspiring and sent a thrill of pleasure through every nerve. + +While thus absorbed by the beauties of nature we heard an halloo, +and looking down the road in the direction of the driver's +bivouac we saw him coming swinging his hat in the air and driving +at a rapid pace that soon brought him to the ranch house. In +answer to our inquiries as to how he had spent the night he +reported that the horses stood quietly in their tracks all night +long, while he slept comfortably in the wagon. In the morning +the horses started without undue urging as if tired of inaction +and glad to go in the direction of provender. They were +completely broken by their fast and after that gave no further +trouble. + +After a stay of four weeks, learning something of the ways of +ranch life and experiencing not a few exciting adventures, +I returned home feeling well pleased with my first trip to the +ranch. + + + +CHAPTER III +THE OPEN RANGE + +Arizona is in the arid belt and well adapted to the range cattle +industry. Its mild climate and limited water supply make it the +ideal range country. Indeed, to the single factor of its limited +water supply, perhaps, more than anything else is its value due +as an open range. If water was abundant there could be no open +range as then the land would all be farmed and fenced. + +Arizona is sometimes spoken of as belonging to the plains, but it +is not a prairie country. Mountains are everywhere, but are +separated in many places by wide valleys. The mountains not only +make fine scenery, but are natural boundaries for the ranches and +give shade and shelter to the cattle. + +There are no severe storms nor blizzard swept plains where cattle +drift and perish from cold. The weather is never extremely cold, +the mercury seldom falling to more than a few degrees below +freezing, except upon the high plateaus and mountains of northern +Arizona. If it freezes during the night the frost usually +disappears the next day; and, if snow flies, it lies only on the +mountains, but melts as fast as it falls in the valleys. There +are but few cloudy or stormy days in the year and bright, warm +sunshine generally prevails. There has never been any loss of +cattle from cold, but many have died from drought as a result of +overstocking the range. + +The pastures consist of valley, mesa and mountain lands which, in +a normal season, are covered by a variety of nutritious grasses. +Of all the native forage plants the gramma grass is the most +abundant and best. It grows only in the summer rainy season +when, if the rains are copious, the gray desert is converted into +a vast green meadow. + +The annual rainfall is comparatively light and insufficient to +grow and mature with certainty any of the cereal crops. When the +summer rains begin to fall the rancher is "jubilant" and the "old +cow smiles." Rain means even more to the ranchman than it does +to the farmer. In an agricultural country it is expected that +rain or snow will fall during every month of the year, but on the +range rain is expected only in certain months and, if it fails to +fall then, it means failure, in a measure, for the entire year. + +Rain is very uncertain in Arizona. July and August are the rain +months during which time the gramma grass grows. Unless the rain +falls daily after it begins it does but little good, as frequent +showers are required to keep the grass growing after it once +starts. A settled rain of one or more days' duration is of rare +occurrence. During the rainy season and, in fact, at all times, +the mornings are usually clear. In the forenoon the clouds begin +to gather and pile up in dark billowy masses that end in showers +during the afternoon and evening. But not every rain cloud +brings rain. Clouds of this character often look very +threatening, but all their display of thunder and lightning is +only bluff and bluster and ends in a fizzle with no rain. After +such a demonstration the clouds either bring wind and a +disagreeable dust storm, or, if a little rain starts to fall, the +air is so dry that it evaporates in mid air, and none of it ever +reaches the earth. In this fashion the clouds often threaten to +do great things, only to break their promise; and the anxious +rancher stands and gazes at the sky with longing eyes, only to be +disappointed again and again. + +As a rule water is scarce. A long procession of cloudless days +merge into weeks of dry weather; and the weeks glide into months +during which time the brazen sky refuses to yield one drop of +moisture either of dew or rain to the parched and thirsty earth. +Even the rainy season is not altogether reliable, but varies +considerably one year with another in the time of its appearance +and continuance. + +The soil is sandy and porous and readily absorbs water, except +where the earth is tramped and packed hard by the cattle. One +peculiarity of the country as found marked upon the maps, and +that exists in fact, is the diminution and often complete +disappearance of a stream after it leaves the mountains. If not +wholly lost upon entering the valley the water soon sinks out of +sight in the sand and disappears and reappears at irregular +intervals, until it loses itself entirely in some underground +channel and is seen no more. + +Many a pleasant valley in the range country is made desolate by +being destitute of any surface spring or running brook, or water +that can be found at any depth. Occasionally a hidden fountain +is struck by digging, but it is only by the merest chance. Wells +have been dug to great depths in perfectly dry ground in an eager +search for water without finding it, and such an experience is +usually equivalent to a failure and the making of a useless bill +of expense. + +A never-failing spring of good water in sufficient quantity to +supply the needs of a ranch in the range country is of rare +occurrence, considering the large territory to be supplied. Only +here and there at long intervals is such a spring found, and it +is always a desirable and valuable property. It makes an oasis +in the desert that is an agreeable change from the surrounding +barrenness, and furnishes its owner, if properly utilized, a +comfortable subsistence for himself and herds. His fields +produce without fail and the increase of his flocks and herds is +sure. + +The isolated rancher who is well located is independent. He is +in no danger of being crowded by his neighbors nor his range +becoming over stocked with stray cattle. His water right gives +him undisputed control of the adjacent range, even though he does +not own all the land, which is an unwritten law of the range and +respected by all cattlemen. + +Because of the scarcity of water the range country is sparsely +settled and always will be until more water is provided by +artificial means for irrigation. Even then a large portion of +the land will be worthless for any other purpose than grazing, +and stock-growing on the open range in Arizona will continue to +be a staple industry in the future as it has been in the past. + +The range is practically all occupied and, in many places, is +already over stocked. Where more cattle are run on a range than +its grass and water can support there is bound to be some loss. +In stocking a range an estimate should be made of its carrying +capacity in a bad year rather than in a good one, as no range can +safely carry more cattle than it can support in the poorest year; +like a chain, it is no stronger than its weakest link. + +A good range is sometimes destroyed by the prairie dog. Wherever +he establishes a colony the grass soon disappears. He burrows in +the ground and a group of such holes is called a dog town. Like +the jack-rabbit he can live without water and is thus able to +keep his hold on the desert. The only way to get rid of him is +to kill him, which is usually done by the wholesale with poison. +His flesh is fine eating, which the Navajo knows if the white man +does not. The Navajo considers him a dainty morsel which is +particularly relished by the sick. If a patient can afford the +price, he can usually procure a prairie dog in exchange for two +sheep. + +The Navajo is an adept at capturing this little animal. The +hunter places a small looking-glass near the hole and, in +concealment near by, he patiently awaits developments. +When the prairie dog comes out of his hole to take an airing +he immediately sees his reflection in the glass and takes it + + + +for an intruder. In an instant he is ready for a fight and +pounces upon his supposed enemy to kill or drive him away. +While the prairie dog is thus engaged wrestling with his +shadow or reflection the hunter shoots him at close range with +his bow and arrow--never with a gun, for if wounded by a +bullet he is sure to drop into his hole and is lost, but the +arrow transfixes his body and prevents him from getting away. +He has been hunted so much in the Navajo country that he has +become very scarce.[1] + +[1] This statement is made on the authority of Mr. F. W. Volz, +who lives at Canon Diablo, and is familiar with the customs of +the Navajos. + + +Much of the ranch country in southern Arizona is destitute of +trees, and shade, therefore, is scarce. Upon the high mountains +and plateaus of northern Arizona there are great forests of pine +and plenty of shade. But few cattle range there in comparison to +the large numbers that graze on the lower levels further south. +What little tree growth there is on the desert is stunted and +supplies but scant shade. In the canons some large cottonwood, +sycamore and walnut trees can be found; upon the foot hills the +live oak and still higher up the mountain the pine. Cattle +always seek the shade and if there are no trees they will lie +down in the shade of a bush or anything that casts a shadow. The +cattle are so eager for shade that if they can find nothing +better they will crowd into the narrow ribbon of shade that is +cast by a columnar cactus or telegraph pole and seem to be +satisfied with ever so little if only shade is touched. + +Twenty years ago before there were many cattle on the +southwestern range, the gramma grass stood knee high everywhere +all over that country and seemed to be an inexhaustible supply of +feed for an unlimited number of cattle during an indefinite term +of years. It was not many years, however, after the large herds +were turned loose on the range until the grass was all gone and +the ground, except in a few favored spots, left nearly as bare of +grass as the traveled road. At the present time whatever grass +there is must grow each year which, even in a favorable year, is +never heavy. If the summer rains fail, no grass whatever can +grow and the cattle are without feed. The grass about the +springs and water holes is first to disappear and then the cattle +must go farther and farther from water to find any grass. When +cattle are compelled to travel over long distances in going from +grass to water, they naturally grow thin from insufficient food +and are worn out by the repeated long journeys. A cow that is +thin and weak will postpone making the trip as long as possible-- +two, three and even four days in the hottest weather she will +wait before attempting the trip. At last, when the poor creature +reaches water, she is so famished from thirst that she drinks too +much. In her feeble condition she is unable to carry the +enormous load of water which she drinks and lies down by the side +of the friendly water trough to die from exhaustion. + +If cattle are turned loose upon a new range they act strange and +are inclined to scatter. Until they become accustomed to the +change they should be close herded, but after they are once +located they are not liable to stray very far. + +As they are only worked by men on horseback they are not +frightened at the sight of a horse and rider; but let a stranger +approach them on foot, in a moment after he is sighted every head +is raised in surprise and alarm and the pedestrian is, indeed, +fortunate if the herd turns tail and scampers off instead of +running him down and tramping him under foot in a wild stampede. + +Nowhere else can be found a finer sight than is witnessed in the +range country. In every direction broad meadows stretch away to +the horizon where numberless cattle roam and are the embodiment +of bovine happiness and contentment. Scattered about in +irregular groups they are seen at ease lying down or feeding, and +frisking about in an overflow of exuberant life. Cow paths or +trails converge from every point of the compass, that lead to +springs and water holes, on which the cattle travel. + +It is an interesting sight to watch the cattle maneuver as they +form in line, single file, ready for the march. They move +forward in an easy, deliberate walk one behind the other and may +be seen coming and going in every direction. They make their +trips with great regularity back and forth from grass to water, +and vice versa, going to water in the morning and back to the +feeding grounds at night. + +Cows have a curious fashion, sometimes, of hiding out their +calves. When a cow with a young calf starts for water she +invariably hides her calf in a bunch of grass or clump of bushes +in some secluded spot, where it lies down and remains perfectly +quiet until the mother returns. I have many times while riding +the range found calves thus secreted that could scarcely be +aroused or frightened away, which behavior was so different from +their usual habit of being shy and running off at the slightest +provocation. The calf under such circumstances seems to +understand that it is "not at home," and cannot be seen. + +At another time a lot of calves are left in charge of a young cow +or heifer that seems to understand her responsibility and guards +her charge carefully. The young calves are too weak to make the +long trip to water and thus, through the maternal instinct of the +mother cow, she provides for the care of her offspring almost as +if she were human. + +After viewing such a large pasture as the open range presents, +which is limitless in extent, the small fenced field or pasture +lot of a few acres on the old home farm back east, that looked so +large to boyish eyes in years gone by, dwindles by comparison +into insignificance and can never again be restored to its former +greatness. + + + +CHAPTER IV +RANCH LIFE + +Ranch life on the open range may be somewhat wild and lonely, but +it is as free and independent to the rancher as it is to his +unfettered cattle that roam at will over a thousand hills. As a +place of residence for a family of women and children it is +undesirable because of its isolation and lack of social and +educational privileges; but for a man who cares to "rough it" it +has a rare fascination. Its freedom may mean lonesomeness and +its independence monotony, yet it is very enjoyable for a season. +Like anything else it may become wearing and wearisome if +continued too long without a change, but its novelty has a charm +that is irresistible. + +Ranch life is untrammeled by social conventionalities and is not +burdened by business cares, but is an easy, natural life that is +free from all kinds of pressure. It relieves the tension of an +artificial existence, and worry and vexation are forgotten. Time +loses its rapid flight and once more jogs on at an easy pace; and +its complete isolation and quiet gives nature a chance to rest +and recuperate + + "Away from the dwellings of careworn men." + +The environment of ranch life is highly conducive to good health. +The scenery is delightful, the air pure and bracing, the food +wholesome and nutritious, the couch comfortable and the sleep +refreshing. Walking and riding furnish the necessary exercise +that nature demands. Indeed, there is no better exercise to be +found than riding horseback to stimulate sluggish organs, or +excite to healthy action the bodily functions. It stirs the +liver, causes deep breathing, strengthens the heart and +circulation, tones the nerves and makes an appetite that waits on +good digestion. An outdoor life is often better than medicine +and is a panacea for the "ills that human flesh is heir to." + +The ranchman, if he is in tune with his surroundings, finds a +never-failing spring of pleasure. If he is company for himself +he is well entertained and if he is a lover of nature he finds +interesting subjects for study upon every hand. His wants are +few and simple and the free life that he lives develops in him a +strong and sturdy manhood. He is the picture of health and is +happy and contented as the day is long. + +However, such a life does not suit everyone, as individual tastes +differ. Prejudice also exerts an influence and is apt to +estimate all western life as crude and undesirable, being in a +transition state of change from savagery to civilization. Be it +even so; for, if the savage had never existed to furnish the +ancestry that civilized man boasts, civilization would not have +been possible. It is only natural that this should be so as, in +the order of nature, evolution begins at the bottom and works up. + +There is perhaps no condition in life that can be called perfect, +yet of the two extremes we choose to believe that civilization is +preferable to barbarism; but an intermediate state has the +advantage over both extremes by avoiding native crudeness upon +the one hand and excessive refinement upon the other, both being +equally undesirable. + +Happiness, which we all profess to seek, exists in some degree +everywhere but we are always striving to acquire something more. +In our constant struggle for improvement, progress undoubtedly is +made in the right direction. With refinement comes increased +sensibility and an enlarged capacity for enjoyment. But, such a +state in itself is not one of unalloyed bliss, as might be +supposed, since it is marred by its antithesis, an increased +amount of sickness and suffering, which is the inevitable penalty +of civilization. In such a progression the pleasures of life +become more, but the acuteness of suffering is also increased. +The mistake lies in the fact that in our eager pursuit after the +artificial we forget nature and not until we acquire a surfeit of +that which is artificial and grow weary of the shams and deceits +of the world do we stop and think or turn again to nature to find +the truth. + +In the early days the frontier was the rendezvous for rough and +lawless characters of every description. That time has gone by +never to return in the history of the nation, as the rustlers +have either reformed and become good citizens or long ago left +the country by the lead or hemp routes. The change in the times +has been such that never again will it be possible to return to +the conditions that existed in the early settlement of the west +which gave to desperadoes a safe hiding place. + +The people now living on what is left of the frontier will, as a +class, compare favorably with those of any other community. +There may be small surface polish, as the world goes, but there +is much genuine gold of true character that needs only a little +rubbing to make it shine. + +The population being sparse there is comparatively little +opportunity or inclination for wrongdoing. Whatever anybody does +is noticed at once and everything that happens is immediately +found out. The favorite haunt of vice and crime is not in a +sparsely settled community, public opinion to the contrary +notwithstanding, but in the centers of population, in, our large +cities where temptation to do evil is strong and dark deeds find +ready concealment in the mingling and confusion of the throng. + +The ranchman deserves to be correctly judged by his true +character and not by any false standard that is artfully designed +to misrepresent him or to unjustly bring him into contempt. He +may have a rough exterior, not intending to pose in a model +fashion plate, but in real life where he is tried there is found +under his coarse garb a heart that is honest and true which +responds with sympathy and kindness for anyone in distress; and +his generosity and hospitality are proverbial and stand without a +rival. Men from every position in life, including college +graduates and professional men, are engaged in ranching and +whoever takes them to be a lot of toughs and ignoramuses is +egregiously mistaken. + +The strength, virtue and intelligence of the nation is found in +its large middle class of laboring people that is largely +composed of farmers and mechanics, men who work with their hands +and live natural lives and are so busy in some useful occupation +that they have no time to think of mischief. In this favored +land of freedom all of our great men have been of the common +people and struggled up from some humble position. A life of +toil may seem to be hard, but it conforms to nature and natural +laws and favors the development of the best that is in man; and +he who shirks toil misses his opportunity. Whatever tends to +wean men from work only weakens them. Luxury and indolence +travel on the downward road of degeneracy. They may make +pleasant temporary indulgence, but are fatal to ultimate success. + +Locomotion on a ranch consists almost entirely of horseback +riding as walking is too slow and tiresome and wheeled conveyance +is often inconvenient or impossible for cross-country driving. +When the ranchman mounts his horse in the morning to make his +daily rounds he has a clear field before him. He is "monarch of +all he surveys" and practically owns the earth, since his +neighbors live many miles away and his road leads in any +direction clear to the horizon. + +The average ranch is not intended to furnish luxuries, but to +serve the best interests of the business in hand, that of growing +cattle. It is usually a "stag camp" composed entirely of men who +occupy a rude cabin near some convenient spring or stream of +water, where they keep house in ranch style and live after a +fashion. No money is ever expended in unnecessary improvements, +but every dollar spent in repairs is put where it will do the +most good. The house furnishings are all of the plainest kind +and intended to meet only present necessities. The larder is not +supplied with luxuries nor is the cuisine prolific of dainties, +but there is always on hand a supply of the necessaries of life. + +Every man has his particular work to perform, but unless it be on +some large ranch where the force of men employed is sufficiently +large to require the services of a chef, he is also expected to +assist in keeping house. It is an unwritten law of the ranch +that everybody on the place must share in this work and if anyone +shirks his duty he must either promptly mend his ways or else +quit his job. It is seldom, however, that this rule has to be +enforced, as the necessities of the case require that every man +shall be able to prepare a meal as he is liable to be left alone +for days or weeks at a time when he must either cook or starve. + +The equipment of the cowboy is his horse and reata. They are his +constant companions and serve his every purpose. His work +includes much hard riding, which he greatly enjoys if no accident +befalls him. But dashing on in heedless speed while rounding up +cattle he is ever liable to mishaps, as his horse, although sure +footed, may at any time step into a prairie dogs' hole or stumble +on a loose rock that is liable to throw both horse and rider to +the ground in a heap. He is, indeed, fortunate if he escapes +unhurt, or only receives a few bruises and not a fractured bone +or broken neck. + +His work consists in riding over the range and marking the +condition of the cattle; line riding to prevent the stock from +straying; looking after the springs and water holes and keeping +them clean; branding calves, gathering steers for market and +assisting in the general work of the round-up. Every day has its +duty and every season its particular work, yet there are times of +considerable leisure during the year. After his day's work is +done he repairs to the ranch house, or to some outlying camp, +whichever happens to be nearest when night overtakes him, for +every large ranch has one or more such camps posted at some +convenient point that furnishes temporary shelter and +refreshment, where he rests and eats his frugal meal with a +relish that only health and rough riding can give. + +If he is at the home ranch in winter he spends the long evenings +before an open hearth fire of blazing logs and by the light of +the fire and the doubtful aid of a tallow dip lounges the hours +away in reading and cogitation; or, if in the company of +congenial companions, engages in conversation and pleasantry or +any amusement that the party may select. At an early hour he +turns in for the night and after a sound and refreshing sleep is +up and out with the dawn. After breakfast he mounts his horse +and in his striking and characteristic costume of broad sombrero, +blue flannel shirt, fringed chaperejos and jingling spurs he +rides forth to his work a perfect type of the gallant caballero. + + + +CHAPTER V +THE ROUND-UP + +In the range cattle business it is important for every owner of +live stock to have some mark by which he can tell his own cattle. +It is impossible for any man to remember and recognize by natural +marks every animal in a large herd. On the open range there are +no fenced pastures to hold the cattle, but all are permitted to +run free and mix promiscuously. To distinguish the cattle of +different owners a system of earmarks and brands has been devised +by which each ranchman can identify and claim his own stock. + +The branding is usually done during a round-up when every calf +found is caught and branded in the brand of its mother. If a +calf remains unbranded until after it is weaned and quits its +mother, it becomes a maverick and is liable to be lost to its +owner. A calf, if left to itself, will follow its mother for +several months and then leave her to seek its own living. +Occasionally a calf does not become weaned when it should be, but +continues the baby habit indefinitely. If a yearling is found +unweaned it is caught and "blabbed" which is done by fitting a +peculiarly shaped piece of wood into its nose that prevents it +from sucking but does not interfere with feeding. + +If a calf loses its mother while very young it is called a +"leppy." Such an orphan calf is, indeed, a forlorn and forsaken +little creature. Having no one to care for it, it has a hard +time to make a living. If it is smart enough to share the lacteal +ration of some more fortunate calf it does very well, but if it +cannot do so and has to depend entirely on grazing for a living +its life becomes precarious and is apt to be sacrificed in the +"struggle for the survival of the fittest." + +If it survives the ordeal and lives it bears the same relation to +the herd as the maverick and has no lawful owner until it is +branded. If an unbranded calf has left or lost its mother it has +lost its identity as well and finds it again only after being +branded, although it may have swapped owners in the process. +Theoretically, a maverick belongs to the owner of the range on +which it runs, but, practically, it becomes the property of the +man who first finds and brands it. + +Although the branding is supposed to be done only during a +round-up there is nevertheless some branding done in every month +of the year. The ranchman is compelled to do so to save his +calves from being stolen. Therefore early branding is generally +practiced as it has been found to be the best safeguard against +theft. Either the spring or fall is considered a good time to +brand, but the only best time to brand a calf is when you find +it. + +Dishonest men are found in the cattle business the same as in +other occupations and every year a large number of cattle are +misappropriated and stolen from the range. Cattle have been +stolen by the wholesale and large herds run off and illegally +sold before the owner discovered his loss. Calf stealing, +however, happens more frequently than the stealing of grown +cattle and many ingenious devices have been invented to make such +stealing a success. A common practice is to "sleeper" a calf by +a partial earmark and a shallow brand that only singes the hair +but does not burn deep enough to leave a permanent scar. If the +calf is not discovered as an imperfect or irregular brand and +becomes a maverick, it is kept under surveillance by the thief +until he considers it safe to finish the job when he catches it +again and brands it with his own iron. + +Different methods are employed to win a calf and fit it for +unlawful branding. Sometimes the calf is caught and staked out +in some secluded spot where it is not liable to be found and away +from its mother until it is nearly starved when it is branded by +the thief and turned loose; or, the calf's tongue is split so +that it cannot suck and by the time that the wounded tongue has +healed the calf has lost its mother, and the thief brands it for +himself. Again, the mother cow is shot and killed, when the +orphan calf is branded in perfect safety as "the dead tell no +tales." + +The owner of cattle on the open range must be constantly on his +guard against losses by theft. Usually the thief is a dishonest +neighbor or one of his own cowboys who becomes thrifty at his +employer's expense. Many a herd of cattle was begun without a +single cow, but was started by branding surreptitiously other +people's property. It is not an easy matter to detect such a +thief or to convict on evidence when he is arrested and brought +to trial. A cattle thief seldom works alone, but associates +himself with others of his kind who will perjure themselves to +swear each other clear. + +The cow ponies that are used in range work are small but active +and possessed of great power of endurance. They are the +descendants of the horses that were brought into Mexico by the +Spaniards, some of which escaped into the wilderness and their +increase became the wild horses of the plains. They are known by +the various names of mustang, bronco and cayuse according to the +local vernacular of the country in which they roam. They are +wild and hard to conquer and are sometimes never fully broken +even under the severest treatment. Bucking and pitching are +their peculiar tricks for throwing a rider and such an experience +invariably ends in discomfort if not discomfiture, for if the +rider is not unhorsed he at least receives a severe shaking up +in the saddle. + +The native cattle, like the horses, are small and wild, but are +hardy and make good rustlers. The native stock has been greatly +improved in recent years by cross breeding with thoroughbred +Durham and Hereford bulls. Grade cattle are better suited for +the open range than are pure bred animals, which are more tender +and fare better in fenced pastures. By cross breeding the +quality of range cattle has steadily improved until the scrub +element has been almost bred out. + +As a breeding ground Arizona is unsurpassed, but for maturing +beef cattle the northern country is preferable. Thousands of +young cattle are shipped out annually to stock the ranges of +Wyoming and Montana and to fill the feed lots of Kansas, Missouri +and other feeding states. A dash of native blood in range cattle +is desirable as it enables them to endure hardships without +injury and find subsistence in seasons of drought and scant +forage. + +The general round-up occurs in the fall, just after the summer +rains, when there is plenty of grass and the horses and cattle +are in good condition. The ranchmen of a neighborhood meet at an +appointed time and place and organize for systematic work. A +captain is chosen who is in command of the round-up and must be +obeyed. Each cowboy has his own string of horses, but all of the +horses of the round-up not in use are turned out to graze and +herd together. A mess wagon and team of horses in charge of a +driver, who is also the cook, hauls the outfit of pots, +provisions and bedding. + + The round-up moves from ranch to ranch rounding up and marking +the cattle as it goes and is out from four to six weeks, +according to the number of ranches that are included in the +circuit. + +When camp is made and everything ready for work the cowboys ride +out in different directions and drive in all the cattle they can +find. After the cattle are all gathered the calves are branded +and the cattle of the several owners are cut into separate herds +and held until the round-up is finished when they are driven +home. + +Every unbranded calf is caught and branded in its mother's brand. +In a mix-up of cattle as occurs at a round-up, a calf sometimes +gets separated from its mother so that when caught its identity +is uncertain. To avoid making a mistake the calf is only +slightly marked, just enough to hurt it a little, and is then +turned loose. A calf when it is hurt is very much like a child, +in that it cries and wants its mamma. As quick as it is let go +it immediately hunts its mother and never fails to find her. +When cow and calf have come together the calf is again caught and +the branding finished. + +The pain produced by the hot branding iron makes the calf bawl +lustily and struggle to free itself. The mother cow sometimes +resents the punishment of her offspring by charging and chasing +the men who are doing the branding; or, if she is of a less fiery +disposition, shows her displeasure by a look of reproach as much +as to say, "You bad men, what have you done to hurt my little +darling?" + +A peculiarity of brands is that they do not all grow alike. +Sometimes a brand, after it is healed, remains unchanged during +the life of the animal. At other times it enlarges to several +times its original size. Various reasons are assigned to account +for this difference. Some claim that the brand only grows with +the calf; others assert that it is due to deep branding; and, +again, it is ascribed to lunar influence. But, as to the real +cause of the difference, no explanation has been given that +really explains the phenomenon. + +The cowboy's work is nearly all done in the saddle and calls for +much hard riding. He rides like a Centaur, but is clumsy on his +feet. Being so much in the saddle his walking muscles become +weakened, and his legs pressing against the body of his horse, in +time, makes him bowlegged. In addition he wears high-heeled +Mexican boots which throw him on his toes when he walks and makes +his already shambling gait even more awkward. + +A cowboy's life has little in it to inspire him with high ideals +or arouse his ambition to achieve greatness. He leads a hard +life among rough men and receives only coarse fare and rougher +treatment. His life is narrow and he works in a rut that +prevents him from taking a broad view of life. All that he has +is his monthly wages, and, possibly, a hope that at some future +day he may have a herd of cattle of his own. + +Managing a herd of range cattle successfully is an art that can +only be acquired by long practice, and it is surprising how +expert men can become at that business. All the work done among +cattle is on horseback, which includes herding, driving, cutting +and roping. The trained cow pony seemingly knows as much about a +round-up as his master, and the two, together, form a combination +that is invincible in a herd of wild cattle. The cow or steer +that is selected to be roped or cut out rarely escapes. While +the horse is in hot pursuit the rider dexterously whirls his +reata above his head until, at a favorable moment, it leaves his +hand, uncoiling as it flies through the air, and, if the throw is +successful, the noose falls over the animal's head. Suddenly the +horse comes to a full stop and braces himself for the shock. +When the animal caught reaches the end of the rope it is brought +to an abrupt halt and tumbled in a heap on the ground. The horse +stands braced pulling on the rope which has been made fast to the +horn of the saddle by a few skillful turns. The cowboy is out of +the saddle and on his feet in a jiffy. He grasps the prostrate +animal by the tail and a hind leg, throws it on its side, and +ties its four feet together, so that it is helpless and ready for +branding or inspection. The cowboys have tying contests in which +a steer is sometimes caught and tied in less time than a minute. + +It is a comical sight to see an unhorsed cowboy chase his runaway +horse on foot as he is almost sure to do if caught in such a +predicament. He ought to know that he cannot outrun his fleet +steed in such a race, but seems to be impelled by some strange +impulse to make the attempt. After he has run himself out of +breath he is liable to realize the folly of his zeal and adopt a +more sensible method for capturing his horse. + +The cowboy who works on the southwestern range has good cause to +fear the malodorous hydrophobia skunk. At a round-up all of the +cowboys sleep on the ground. During the night, while they are +asleep, the little black and white cat-like animal forages +through the camp for something to eat. Without provocation the +skunk will attack the sleeper and fasten its sharp teeth in some +exposed portion of his anatomy, either the nose or a finger or +toe and will not let go until it is killed or forcibly removed. +The wound thus made usually heals quickly and the incident is, +perhaps, soon forgotten; but after several weeks or months +hydrophobia suddenly develops and proves fatal in a short time. + +The only known cure for the bite of the skunk is the Pasteur +treatment and, since its discovery, as soon as anyone is bitten, +he is immediately sent to the Pasteur Institute in Chicago for +treatment. + + + +CHAPTER VI +RANCH HAPPENINGS + +Ranch life is often full of thrilling incidents and adventures. +The cowboy in his travels about the country looking after cattle, +hunting wild game or, in turn, being hunted by yet wilder +Indians, finds plenty of novelty and excitement to break any +fancied monotony which might be considered as belonging to ranch +life. In a number of visits to the range country during the past +twenty years, the writer has had an opportunity to observe life +on a ranch, and experience some of its exciting adventures. + +One day in the summer of 1891, Dave Drew, our foreman, Tedrow, +one of the cowboys, and myself, made a trip into East Canon in +the Dos Cabezas mountains, in search of some large unbranded +calves which had been seen running there. We rode leisurely +along for some time and passed several small bunches of cattle +without finding what we were looking for. As we neared a bend in +the canon, Dave, who rode in advance, saw some cattle lying in +the shade of a grove of live oak trees. Instantly he spurred his +horse into a run and chased after the cattle at full speed, at +the same time looking back and shouting that he saw two mavericks +and for us to hurry up and help catch them. It was a bad piece +of ground to cover and we found it difficult to make progress or +to even keep each other in sight. Tedrow hurried up as fast as +he could while I brought up the rear. + +In trying to get through in the direction that Dave had gone, we +tried to make a short cut in order to gain time, but soon found +our way completely blocked by immense boulders and dense thickets +of cat-claw bushes, which is a variety of mesquite covered with +strong, sharp, curved thorns. We turned back to find a better +road and after some time spent in hunting an opening we +discovered a dim trail which soon led us into a natural park of +level ground hidden among the foothills. Here we found Dave who +alone had caught and tied down both the calves and was preparing +to start a fire to heat the branding irons. What he had done +seemed like magic and was entirely incomprehensible to an +inexperienced tenderfoot. + +Dave explained afterwards that to be successful in such a race +much depended on taking the cattle by surprise, and then by a +quick, bold dash start them running up the mountain, when it was +possible to overtake and rope them; but if once started to +running down hill it was not only unsafe to follow on horseback +but in any event the cattle were certain to escape. Taking them +by surprise seemed to bewilder them and before they could collect +their scattered senses, so to speak, and scamper off, the work of +capture was done. + +Another adventure, which did not end so fortunately for met +happened in the fall of I 887 when the country was yet +comparatively new to the cattle business. I rode out one day in +company with a cowboy to look after strays and, incidentally, to +watch for any game that might chance to cross our path. We rode +through seemingly endless meadows of fine gramma grass and saw +the sleek cattle feeding on plenty and enjoying perfect +contentment. Game, also, seemed to be abundant but very shy and +as we were not particularly hunting that kind of stock, we +forebore giving chase or firing at long range. + +After riding about among the hills back of the Pinaleno ranch and +not finding anything we concluded to return home. On starting +back we separated and took different routes, going by two +parallel ravines in order to cover more ground in our search. I +had not gone far until I found the cattle we were looking for +going to water on the home trail. Jogging on slowly after them +and enjoying the beauty of the landscape, I unexpectedly caught a +glimpse of a deer lying down under a mesquite tree on the brow of +a distant hill. I was in plain sight of the deer, which was +either asleep or heedless of danger as it paid no attention +whatever to my presence. + +Deer and antelope soon become accustomed to horses and cattle and +often mix and feed familiarly with the stock grazing on the open +range. The deer did not change its position as I quietly rode by +and out of sight behind the hill. There I dismounted and stalked +the quarry on foot, cautiously making my way up the side of the +hill to a point where I would be within easy shooting distance. +As I stood up to locate the deer it jumped to its feet and was +ready to make off, but before it could start a shot from my +Winchester put a bullet through its head, and it scarcely moved +after it fell. The deer was in good condition and replenished +our depleted ranch larder with some choice venison steaks. The +head, also, was a fine one the horns being just out of velvet and +each antler five pointed, was saved and mounted. + +The shot and my lusty halloo soon brought my cowboy friend to the +spot. Together we eviscerated the animal and prepared to pack it +to camp on my horse. As we were lifting it upon his back the +bronco gave a vicious kick which hit me in the left knee and +knocked me down. The blow, though severe, glanced off so that no +bone was broken. What made the horse kick was a mystery as he +was considered safe and had carried deer on other occasions. But +a bronco, like a mule, is never altogether reliable, particularly +as to the action of its heels. With some delay in getting +started and in somewhat of a demoralized condition we mounted and +rode home. + +Soon after the accident I had a chill which was followed by a +fever and there was much pain and swelling in the knee that was +hit. A ranch house, if it happens to be a "stag camp" as ours +was, is a cheerless place in which to be sick, but everything +considered, I was fortunate in that it was not worse. By the +liberal use of hot water and such other simples as the place +afforded I was soon better; but not until after several months' +treatment at home did the injured knee fully recover its normal +condition. + +The excitement of running cattle or hunting game on the open +range in those days was mild in comparison to the panicky feeling +which prevailed during every Indian outbreak. The experience of +many years had taught the people of Arizona what to expect at +such a time and the utter diabolical wickedness of the Apaches +when out on the warpath. During the early eighties many such +raids occurred which were accompanied by all the usual horrors of +brutality and outrage of which the Apaches are capable. + +When it became known in the fall of 1885 that Geronimo was again +off the reservation and out on another one of his bloody raids +the people became panic-stricken. Some left the Territory until +such time when the Indian question would be settled and the +Government could guarantee freedom from Indian depredations. +Those who remained either fled to some near town or fort for +protection, or prepared to defend themselves in their own homes +as best they could. + +What else could the settlers in a new country do? They had +everything invested in either mines or cattle and could not +afford to leave their property without making some effort to save +it even if it had to be done at the risk of their own lives. +They had no means of knowing when or where the stealthy Apaches +would strike and could only wait for the time in uncertainty and +suspense. Many who were in this uncomfortable predicament +managed to escape any harm, but others fell victims to savage +hatred whose death knell was sounded in the crack of the deadly +rifle. + +Some personal experiences may help to illustrate this feeling of +panic, as I happened to be at the ranch during the time and know +how it was myself. + +One day in the month of October, 1885, while Geronimo was making +his raid through southern Arizona, my brother and I rode through +Railroad Pass from Pinaleno ranch to the Lorentz Place, a +distance of fifteen miles. It was about four o'clock in the +afternoon that we ascended to the top of a hill to take +observations and see if anything was happening out of the +ordinary. We saw nothing unusual until we were about to leave +when we noticed somewhat of a commotion on the old Willcox and +Bowie wagon road which parallels the Southern Pacific track. The +distance was too great to see distinctly with the naked eye, but +looking through our field glasses, which we always carried when +out riding, we could plainly see three loaded wagons standing in +the road. The drivers had evidently unhitched their teams and, +mounted upon the horses' backs, were riding furiously in a cloud +of dust down the road towards Bowie. + +I asked the judge, who was a resident and supposed to be familiar +with the customs of the country while I was only a tenderfoot, +what their actions meant. He admitted that he did not understand +their conduct unless it was that they had concluded that they +could not make Willcox on that day and were returning to some +favorable camp ground which they had passed on their way up, to +spend the night; but the manner of their going was certainly +peculiar. After watching them disappear down the road we rode on +and reached our destination in safety. + +The incident was forgotten until a few days later when we were in +Willcox a friend inquired what had become of the Indians which +had lately been seen on our range. We replied that we had not +seen any Indians nor known of any that had been there. He then +related to us how only a few days before three freighters had +seen two Indians ride upon a hill and halt. The sight of Indians +was enough and their only care after that was to get away from +them. They quickly unhitched their horses from the wagons and +rode ten miles to Bowie where they gave the alarm and spent the +night. The next morning, having heard nothing more from the +Indians during the night, they took fresh courage and ventured to +return to their wagons, which they found as they had left them +unmolested, when they continued their journey. + When the freighters were asked why they did not stand off the +Indians they said that they only had one gun and not knowing how +many more redskins there might be decided that to retreat was the +better part of valor. It was my brother and I whom they had seen +and mistaken for Indians. + +A few days after this event I had a similar scare of my own and +after it was over I could sympathize with the poor, frightened +freighters. I was alone at the ranch house packing up and +preparing to leave for home. While thus occupied I chanced to go +to the open door and looking out, to my dismay, I saw Indians. +"My heart jumped into my mouth" and for a moment I felt that my +time had surely come. Two men were seen riding horseback over +the foot hills followed by a pack animal. As I stood watching +them and took time to think, it occurred to me that I might be +mistaken, and that the men were not Indians after all. As they +drew nearer I saw that they were dressed like white men and, +therefore, could not be Indians; but my scare while it lasted was +painfully real. The men proved to be two neighboring ranchmen +who were out looking for lost cattle. + +In this raid, the Apaches, after leaving their reservation in the +White mountains, traveled south along the Arizona and New Mexico +line, killing people as they went, until they reached Stein's +Pass. From there they turned west, crossed the San Simon valley +and disappeared in the Chiricahua mountains. When next seen they +had crossed over the mountains and attacked Riggs' ranch in +Pinery canon, where they wounded a woman, but were driven off. + +The next place that they visited was the Sulphur Spring ranch of +the Chiricahua Cattle Company, where they stole a bunch of +horses. The cowboys at the ranch had received warning that there +were Indians about and had brought in the horse herd from the +range and locked them in the corral. The Apaches came in the +night and with their usual adroitness and cunning stole the +corral empty. The first intimation which the inmates had that +the ranch had been robbed was when the cowboys went in the +morning to get their horses they found them gone. + +From the Sulphur Spring ranch they crossed the Sulphur Spring +valley in the direction of Cochise's stronghold in the Dragoon +mountains. Before reaching the mountains they passed Mike +Noonan's ranch where they shot its owner, who was a lone rancher +and had lived alone in the valley many years. He was found dead +in his door yard with a bullet hole in the back of his head. He +evidently did not know that the Indians were near and was +seemingly unconscious of any danger when he was killed. + +The Indians were not seen again after entering the stronghold +until they crossed the line into Mexico, where they were pursued +by United States soldiers. After a long, stern chase Geronimo +surrendered himself and followers to General Miles, who brought +them back to Arizona. As prisoners they were all loaded into +cars at Bowie and taken to Florida. The general in command +thought it best to take them clear out of the country in order to +put an effectual stop to their marauding. Later they were +removed to the Indian Territory where they now live. + +The rest of the Apaches remain in Arizona and live on the San +Carlos reservation on the Gila river where they are being +inducted into civilization. Since the disturbing element among +them has been removed there has been no more trouble. They seem +to have settled down with a sincere purpose to learn the white +man's way and are quiet and peaceable. They are laborers, +farmers and stockmen and are making rapid progress in their new +life. + + + +CHAPTER VII +A MODEL RANCH + +Any one who has been in Arizona and failed to visit the Sierra +Bonita ranch missed seeing a model ranch. Henry C. Hooker, the +owner of this splendid property, was born in New England and is a +typical Yankee, who early emigrated west and has spent most of +his life on the frontier. + +He went to Arizona at the close of the Civil War and engaged in +contracting for the Government and furnishing supplies to the +army. It was before the days of railroads when all merchandise +was hauled overland in wagons and cattle were driven through on +foot. He outfitted at points in Texas and on the Rio Grande and +drove his cattle and wagons over hundreds of miles of desert +road through a country that was infested by hostile Indians. + +Such a wild life was naturally full of adventures and involved +much hardship and danger. The venture, however, prospered and +proved a financial success, notwithstanding some losses in men +killed, wagons pillaged and cattle driven off and lost by bands +of marauding Apaches. + +In his travels he saw the advantages that Arizona offered as a +grazing country, which decided him to locate a ranch and engage +in the range cattle business. + +The ranch derives its name from the Graham or Pinaleno mountains +which the Indians called the Sierra Bonita because of the many +beautiful wild flowers that grow there. It is twenty miles north +of Willcox, a thriving village on the Southern Pacific Railroad, +and ten miles south of Ft. Grant, that nestles in a grove of +cotton trees at the foot of Mt. Graham, the noblest mountain in +southern Arizona. + +The Sierra Bonita ranch is situated in the famous Sulphur Spring +valley in Cochise County, Arizona, which is, perhaps, the only +all grass valley in the Territory. The valley is about twenty +miles wide and more than one hundred miles long and extends into +Mexico. Its waters drain in opposite directions, part flowing +south into the Yaqui river, and part running north through the +Aravaipa Canon into the Gila and Colorado rivers, all to meet and +mingle again in the Gulf of California. + +Fine gramma grass covers the entire valley and an underground +river furnishes an inexhaustible supply of good water. In the +early days of overland travel before the country was protected or +any of its resources were known, immigrants, who were bound for +California by the Southern route and ignorant of the near +presence of water, nearly perished from thirst while crossing the +valley. + +The water rises to within a few feet of the surface and, since +its discovery, numerous wells have been dug and windmills and +ranch houses dot the landscape in all directions; while thousands +of cattle feed and fatten on the nutritious gramma grass. Its +altitude is about four thousand feet above the sea and the +climate is exceptionally fine. + +The Sierra Bonita ranch is located on a natural cienega of moist +land that has been considerably enlarged by artificial means. In +an average year the natural water supply of the ranch is +sufficient for all purposes but, to guard against any possible +shortage in a dry year, water is brought from the mountains in +ditches that have been constructed at great labor and expense and +is stored in reservoirs, to be used as needed for watering the +cattle and irrigating the fields. The effect of water upon the +desert soil is almost magical and even though the rains fail and +the earth be parched, on the moist land of the cienega the fields +of waving grass and grain are perennially green. + +The owner has acquired by location and purchase, title to several +thousand acres of land, that is all fenced and much of it highly +cultivated. It consists of a strip of land one mile wide and ten +miles long, which is doubly valuable because of its +productiveness and as the key that controls a fine open range. + +The original herd of cattle that pastured on the Sierra Bonita +ranch thirty years ago was composed of native scrub stock from +Texas and Sonora. This undesirable stock was sold at the first +opportunity, and the range re-stocked by an improved grade of +Durham cattle. The change was a long stride in the direction of +improvement, but, later on, another change was made to Herefords, +and during recent years only whitefaces have been bred upon the +ranch. + +Col. Hooker has a strong personality, holds decided opinions and +believes in progress and improvement. He has spent much time and +money in experimental work, and his success has demonstrated the +wisdom of his course. Just such men are needed in every new +country to develop its resources and prove its worth. + +He saw that the primitive methods of ranching then in vogue must +be improved, and began to prepare for the change which was +coming. What he predicted came to pass, and the days of large +herds on the open range are numbered. + +Many of them have already been sold or divided up, and it is a +question Of only a short time when the rest will meet the same +fate. + +When this is done there may be no fewer cattle than there are now +but they will be bunched in smaller herds and better cared for. +Scrubs of any kind are always undesirable, since it has been +proved that quality is more profitable than quantity. A small +herd is more easily handled, and there is less danger of loss +from straying or stealing. + +The common method of running cattle on the open range is reckless +and wasteful in the extreme and entirely inexcusable. The cattle +are simply turned loose to rustle for themselves. No provision +whatever is made for their welfare, except that they are given +the freedom of the range to find water, if they can, and grass +that often affords them only scant picking. + +Under the new regime the cattle are carefully fed and watered, if +need be in a fenced enclosure, that not only gives the cattle +humane treatment but also makes money for the owner. The men are +instructed to bring in every sick or weak animal found on the +range and put it into a corral or pasture, where it is nursed +back to life. If an orphan calf is found that is in danger of +starving it is picked up, carried home and fed. On the average +ranch foundlings and weaklings get no attention whatever, but are +left in their misery to pine away and perish from neglect. The +profit of caring for the weak and sick animals on the Sierra +Bonita ranch amounts to a large sum every year, which the owner +thinks is worth saving. + +Another peculiarity of ranch life is that where there are +hundreds or, perhaps, thousands of cows in a herd, not a single +cow is milked, nor is a cup of milk or pound of butter ever seen +upon the ranch table. It is altogether different on Hooker's +ranch. There is a separate herd of milch cows in charge of a man +whose duty it is to keep the table supplied with plenty of fresh +milk and butter. No milk ever goes to waste. If there is a +surplus it is fed to the calves, pigs and poultry. + +During the branding season the work of the round-up is all done +in corrals instead of, as formerly, out upon the open range. +Each calf after it is branded, if it is old and strong enough to +wean, is taken from the cow and turned into a separate pasture. +It prevents the weak mother cow from being dragged to death by a +strong sucking calf and saves the pampered calf from dying of +blackleg by a timely change of diet. + +Instead of classing the cattle out on the open range as is the +usual custom, by an original system of corrals, gates and chutes +the cattle are much more easily and quickly classified without +any cruelty or injury inflicted upon either man or beast. +Classing cattle at a round-up by the old method is a hard and +often cruel process, that requires a small army of both men and +horses and is always rough and severe on the men, horses and +cattle. + +Besides the herds of sleek cattle, there are also horses galore, +enough to do all of the work on the ranch as well as for pleasure +riding and driving. There is likewise a kennel of fine +greyhounds that are the Colonel's special pride. His cattle, +horses and dogs are all of the best, as he believes in +thoroughbreds and has no use whatever for scrubs of either the +human or brute kind. + +The dogs are fond of their master and lavish their caresses on +him with almost human affection. In the morning when they meet +him at the door Ketchum pokes his nose into one of his master's +half open hands and Killum performs the same act with the other +hand. Blackie nips him playfully on the leg while Dash and the +rest of the pack race about like mad, trying to express the +exuberance of their joy. + +In the bunch is little Bob, the fox terrier, who tries hard but +is not always able to keep up with the hounds in a race. He is +active and gets over the ground lively for a small dog, but in a +long chase is completely distanced and outclassed to his apparent +disgust. Aside from the fine sport that the dogs afford, they +are useful in keeping the place clear of all kinds of "varmints" +such as coyotes, skunks and wild cats. + +How much Col. Hooker appreciates his dogs is best illustrated by +an incident. One morning after greeting the dogs at the door, he +was heard to remark sotto voce. + +"Well, if everybody on the ranch is cross, my dogs always greet +me with a smile." + +There appears to be much in the dog as well as in the horse that +is human, and the trio are capable of forming attachments for +each other that only death can part. + +The ranch house is a one-story adobe structure built in the +Spanish style of a rectangle, with all the doors opening upon a +central court. It is large and commodious, is elegantly +furnished and supplied with every modern convenience. It affords +every needed comfort for a family and is in striking contrast +with the common ranch house of the range that is minus every +luxury and often barely furnishes the necessaries of life. + + + +CHAPTER VIII +SOME DESERT PLANTS + +Much of the vegetation that is indigenous to the southwest is +unique and can only be seen at its best in the Gila valley in +southern Arizona. The locality indicated is in the arid zone and +is extremely hot and dry. Under such conditions it is but +natural to suppose that all plant life must necessarily be scant +and dwarfed, but such is not the fact. Upon the contrary many of +the plants that are native to the soil and adapted to the climate +grow luxuriantly, are remarkably succulent and perennially green. + +How they manage to acquire so much sap amidst the surrounding +siccity is inexplicable, unless it is that they possess the +function of absorbing and condensing moisture by an unusual and +unknown method. It is, however, a beneficent provision of nature +as a protection against famine in a droughty land by furnishing +in an acceptable form, refreshing juice and nutritious pulp to +supply the pressing wants of hungry and thirsty man and beast in +time of need. + +Another peculiarity of these plants is that they are acanaceous; +covered all over with sharp thorns and needles. Spikes of all +sorts and sizes bristle everywhere and admonish the tenderfoot to +beware. Guarded by an impenetrable armor of prickly mail they +defy encroachment and successfully repel all attempts at undue +familiarity. To be torn by a cat-claw thorn or impaled on a +stout dagger leaf of one of these plants would not only mean +painful laceration but, perhaps, serious or even fatal injury. +Notwithstanding their formidable and forbidding appearance they +are nevertheless attractive and possess some value either +medicinal, commercial or ornamental. + +The maguey, or American aloe, is the most abundant and widely +distributed of the native plants. It is commonly known as +mescal, but is also called the century plant from a mistaken +notion that it blossoms only once in a hundred years. Its +average life, under normal conditions, is about ten years and it +dies immediately after blossoming. + +It attains its greatest perfection in the interior of Mexico +where it is extensively cultivated. It yields a large quantity +of sap which is, by a simple process of fermentation, converted +into a liquor called pulque that tastes best while it is new and +is consumed in large quantities by the populace. Pulque trains +are run daily from the mescal plantations, where the pulque is +made, into the large cities to supply the bibulous inhabitants +with their customary beverage. In strength and effect it +resembles lager beer, and is the popular drink with all classes +throughout Mexico where it has been in vogue for centuries and is +esteemed as "the only drink fit for thirsty angels and men." + +The agave is capable of being applied to many domestic uses. +Under the old dispensation of Indian supremacy it supplied the +natives their principal means of support. Its sap was variously +prepared and served as milk, honey, vinegar, beer and brandy. +From its tough fiber were made thread, rope, cloth, shoes and +paper. The strong flower stalk was used in building houses and +the broad leaves for covering them. + +The heart of the maguey is saccharine and rich in nutriment. It +is prepared by roasting it in a mescal pit and, when done, tastes +much like baked squash. It is highly prized by the Indians, who +use it as their daily bread. Before the Apaches were conquered +and herded on reservations a mescal bake was an important event +with them. It meant the gathering of the clans and was made the +occasion of much feasting and festivity. Old mescal pits can yet +be found in some of the secluded corners of the Apache country +that were once the scenes of noisy activity, but have been +forsaken and silent for many years. + +The fiery mescal, a distilled liquor that is known to the trade +as aguardiente, or Mexican brandy, is much stronger than pulque, +but less used. Both liquors are said to be medicinal, and are +reputed to possess diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties. + +Next in importance to the mescal comes the yucca. There are +several varieties, but the palm yucca is the most common, and +under favorable conditions attains to the proportions of a tree. +Fine specimens of yucca grow on the Mojave desert in California +that are large and numerous enough to form a straggling forest. + +The tree consists of a light, spongy wood that grows as a single +stem or divides into two or more branches. Each branch is +crowned by a tuft of long, pointed leaves that grow in concentric +circles. As the new leaves unfold on top the old leaves are +crowded down and hang in loose folds about the stem like a +flounced skirt. When dry the leaves burn readily, and are +sometimes used for light and heat by lost or belated travelers. +White threads of a finer fiber are detached from the margins of +the leaves that are blown by the wind into a fluffy fleece, in +which the little birds love to nest. + +A grove of yucca trees presents a grotesque appearance. If +indistinctly viewed in the hazy distance they are easily mistaken +for the plumed topknots of a band of prowling Apaches, +particularly if the imagination is active with the fear of an +Indian outbreak. + +The wood of the yucca tree has a commercial value. It is cut +into thin sheets by machinery which are used for surgeon's +splints, hygienic insoles, tree protectors and calendars. As a +splint it answers an admirable purpose, being both light and +strong and capable of being molded into any shape desired after +it has been immersed in hot water. Its pulp, also, makes an +excellent paper. + +Another variety of yucca is the amole, or soap plant. Owing to +the peculiar shape of its leaves it is also called Spanish +bayonet. Its root is saponaceous, and is pounded into a pulp and +used instead of soap by the natives. It grows a bunch of large +white flowers, and matures an edible fruit that resembles the +banana. The Indians call it oosa, and eat it, either raw or +roasted in hot ashes. + +A species of yucca called sotal, or saw-grass, grows plentifully +in places, and is sometimes used as food for cattle when grass is +scarce. In its natural state it is inaccessible to cattle +because of its hard and thorny exterior. To make it available it +is cut down and quartered with a hoe, when the hungry cattle eat +it with avidity. Where the plant grows thickly one man can cut +enough in one day to feed several hundred head of cattle. + +There are several other varieties of yucca that possess no +particular value, but all are handsome bloomers, and the mass of +white flowers which unfold during the season of efflorescence +adds much to the beauty of the landscape. + +The prickly pear cactus, or Indian fig, of the genus Opuntia is a +common as well as a numerous family. The soil and climate of the +southwest from Texas to California seem to be just to its liking. +It grows rank and often forms dense thickets. The root is a +tough wood from which, it is said, the best Mexican saddletrees +are made. + +The plant consists of an aggregation of thick, flat, oval leaves, +which are joined together by narrow bands of woody fiber and +covered with bundles of fine, sharp needles. Its pulp is +nutritious and cattle like the young leaves, but will not eat +them after they become old and hard unless driven to do so by the +pangs of hunger. In Texas the plant is gathered in large +quantities and ground into a fine pulp by machinery which is then +mixed with cotton-seed meal and fed to cattle. The mixture makes +a valuable fattening ration and is used for finishing beef steers +for the market. + +The cholla, or cane cactus, is also a species of Opuntia, but its +stem or leaf is long and round instead of short and flat. It is +thickly covered with long, fine, silvery-white needles that +glisten in the sun. Its stem is hollow and filled with a white +pith like the elder. After the prickly bark is stripped off the +punk can be picked out through the fenestra with a penknife, +which occupation affords pleasant pastime for a leisure hour. +When thus furbished up the unsightly club becomes an elegant +walking stick. + +The cholla is not a pleasant companion as all persons know who +have had any experience with it. Its needles are not only very +sharp, but also finely barbed, and they penetrate and cling fast +like a burr the moment that they are touched. Cowboys profess to +believe that the plant has some kind of sense as they say that it +jumps and takes hold of its victim before it is touched. This +action, however, is only true in the seeming, as its long +transparent needles, being invisible, are touched before they are +seen. When they catch hold of a moving object, be it horse or +cowboy, an impulse is imparted to the plant that makes it seem to +jump. It is an uncanny movement and is something more than an +ocular illusion, as the victim is ready to testify. + +These desert plants do not ordinarily furnish forage for live +stock, but in a season of drought when other feed is scarce and +cattle are starving they will risk having their mouths pricked by +thorns in order to get something to eat and will browse on +mescal, yucca and cactus and find some nourishment in the unusual +diet, enough, at least, to keep them from dying. The plants +mentioned are not nearly as plentiful now as they once were. +Because of the prolonged droughts that prevail in the range +country and the overstocking of the range these plants are in +danger of being exterminated and, if the conditions do not soon +change, of becoming extinct. + +The saguaro, or giant cactus, is one of nature's rare and curious +productions. It is a large, round, fluted column that is from +one to two feet thick and sometimes sixty feet high. The trunk +is nearly of an even thickness from top to bottom but, if there +is any difference, it is a trifle thicker in the middle. It +usually stands alone as a single perpendicular column, but is +also found bunched in groups. If it has any branches they are +apt to start at right angles from about the middle of the tree +and curve upward, paralleling the trunk, which form gives it the +appearance of a mammoth candelabrum. + +The single saguaro pillar bears a striking resemblance to a +Corinthian column. As everything in art is an attempt to imitate +something in nature, is it possible that Grecian architecture +borrowed its notable pattern from the Gila valley? + +Southern Arizona is the natural home and exclusive habitat of +this most singular and interesting plant and is, perhaps, the +only thing growing anywhere that could have suggested the design. +Wherever it grows, it is a conspicuous object on the landscape +and has been appropriately named "The Sentinel of the Desert." + +Its mammoth body is supported by a skeleton of wooden ribs, which +are held in position by a mesh of tough fibers that is filled +with a green pulp. Rows of thorns extend its entire length which +are resinous and, if ignited, burn with a bright flame. They are +sometimes set on fire and have been used by the Apaches for +making signals. The cactus tree, like the eastern forest tree, +is often found bored full of round, holes that are made by the +Gila woodpecker. When the tree dies its pulp dries up and blows +away and there remains standing only a spectral figure composed +of white slats and fiber that looks ghostly in the distance. + +Its fruit is delicious and has the flavor of the fig and +strawberry combined. It is dislodged by the greedy birds which +feed on it and by arrows shot from bows in the hands of the +Indians. The natives esteem the fruit as a great delicacy, and +use it both fresh and dried and in the form of a treacle or +preserve. + +The ocotillo, or mountain cactus, is a handsome shrub that grows +in rocky soil upon the foothills and consists of a cluster of +nearly straight poles of brittle wood covered with thorns and +leaves. It blossoms during the early summer and each branch +bears on its crest a bunch of bright crimson flowers. + +If set in a row the plant makes an ornamental hedge and effective +fence for turning stock. The seemingly dry sticks are thrust +into yet drier ground where they take root and grow without +water. Its bark is resinous and a fagot of dry sticks makes a +torch that is equal to a pineknot. + +The echinocactus, or bisnaga, is also called "The Well of the +Desert." It has a large barrel-shaped body which is covered with +long spikes that are curved like fishhooks. It is full of sap +that is sometimes used to quench thirst. By cutting off the top +and scooping out a hollow, the cup-shaped hole soon fills with a +sap that is not exactly nectar but can be drunk in an emergency. +Men who have been in danger of perishing from thirst on the +desert have sometimes been saved by this unique method of well +digging. + +Greasewood, or creasote bush as it is sometimes called on account +of its pungent odor, grows freely on the desert, but has little +or no value and cattle will not touch it. Like many other desert +plants it is resinous and if thrown into the fire, the green +leaves spit and sputter while they burn like hot grease in a +frying pan. + +The mesquite tree is peculiarly adapted to the desert and is the +most valuable tree that grows in the southwest. As found growing +on the dry mesas of Arizona, it is only a small bush, but on the +moist land of a river bottom it becomes a large forest tree. A +mesquite forest stands in the Santa Cruz valley south of Tucson +that is a fair sample of its growth under favorable conditions. + +Its wood is hard and fine grained and polishes beautifully. It +is very durable and is valuable for lumber, fence posts and +firewood. On the dry mesas it seems to go mostly to root that is +out of all proportion to the size of the tree. The amount of +firewood that is sometimes obtained by digging up the root of a +small mesquite bush is astonishing. + +It makes a handsome and ornamental shade tree, having graceful +branches, feathery leaves and fragrant flowers, and could be +cultivated to advantage for yard and park purposes. + +Its principal value, however, lies in its seed pods, which grow +in clusters and look like string beans. The mesquite bean +furnishes a superior article of food and feeds about everything +that either walks or flies on the desert. The Indians make meal +of the seed and bake it into bread. Cattle that feed on the open +range will leave good grass to browse on a mesquite bush. Even +as carnivorous a creature as the coyote will make a full meal on +a mess of mesquite beans and seem to be satisfied. The tree +exudes a gum that is equal to the gum arabic of commerce. + +The palo verde is a tree without leaves and is a true child of +the desert. No matter how hot and dry the weather the palo verde +is always green and flourishing. At a distance it resembles a +weeping willow tree stripped of its leaves. Its numerous long, +slender, drooping branches gracefully criss-cross and interlace +in an intricate figure of filigree work. It has no commercial +value, but if it could be successfully transplanted and +transported it would make a desirable addition to green-house +collections in the higher latitudes. + +The romantic mistletoe that is world renowned for its magic +influence in love affairs, grows to perfection in southern +Arizona. There are several varieties of this parasitic plant +that are very unlike in appearance. Each kind partakes more or +less of the characteristics of the tree upon which it grows, but +all have the glossy leaf and waxen berry. + + + +CHAPTER IX +HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS + +Arizona has several hot springs within her borders but, perhaps, +none are more valuable nor picturesquely located than Hooker's +hot springs. These springs are located in the foothills on the +western slope of the Galiura mountains in southeastern Arizona, +thirty-five miles west of Willcox on the Southern Pacific +Railroad. The spot is beautifully situated, commanding an +extended view of valley and mountain scenery. + +There are a dozen springs, big and little, in the group and +are scattered over several acres of hillside. The temperature +of the water is 130 degrees Fahrenheit and too hot to drink but, +if sipped slowly, it makes an admirable hot-water draught. The +springs evidently have their source deep down in the earth and +the flow of water never varies. When the water from the +different springs is all united it forms a good sized brook. The +water is conducted through pipes into the bath house, where it +supplies a row of bath-tubs with water of any desired +temperature. The surplus water flows into a large earthern tank +or artificial lake and is used for irrigating a small farm that +produces grain, fruits and vegetables. + +The water from these springs is in great demand and is not only +sought by the human biped, but is also in favor with the equine +quadruped. Every morning after the stable doors are thrown open +and the horses turned loose they invariably, of their own accord, +proceed to the lake, wade out into shallow water and take a bath. +They lie down and splash the water about like a lot of schoolboys +taking a swim. + +The water from all the springs is perfectly soft and pure. It +cannot be called a mineral water, as an analysis shows that it +contains only a trace of any kind of mineral matter. This +peculiarity of the water is no damage to the springs, since +purity is the best recommendation that any water can have. Water +that is heavily mineralized may be medicinal, but is not +necessarily remedial, or even wholesome, notwithstanding the +popular belief to the contrary. Water that is charged with much +mineral is spoiled for drinking. Moderately hard water need not +be injurious to anybody, but is especially beneficial to +children. The assimilative function in the child appropriates +mineral water tardily and sometimes absorbs it altogether too +slowly for the child's good. Its absence in the system causes a +disease called rickets, in which, from all lack of lime, the +bones of the child become soft and yielding. The bones of a +rickety child will bend rather than break. It is slow to walk +and inclines to become bow-legged. + +It is entirely different in old age. As the years multiply the +system absorbs an abnormal and ever increasing amount of +calcareous matter. The bones become unduly hard and brittle and +are easily broken. Bony matter is liable to be deposited in and +about the joints, when they become stiff and painful. It also +lodges in the various soft tissues of the body, and ossification +of the valves of the heart and walls of the arteries sometimes +happens. It weakens the blood vessels so that they easily +rupture, which causes apoplexy, paralysis and death. Calcareous +concretions in the kidneys and bladder, also, come from the same +cause, and are called gravel. Such deposits are not only +annoying and painful to the patient, but in time may prove fatal +if not removed by surgery. + +Middle-aged and elderly people should never drink anything but +soft water. If a natural supply of soft water cannot be obtained +distilled water should be substituted. If neither natural soft +water nor distilled water are available, and there is doubt as to +the purity of the water that is being used, it should be boiled +and then let stand to cool and settle. Boiling not only destroys +and renders harmless any organic germs that may be present, but +also precipitates and eliminates much of its inorganic salts. + +A few drops of a weak solution of nitrate of silver added to a +glass of water will quickly determine its quality. If the water +that is being tested is free from mineral matter no change is +produced, but if it contains mineral it turns the water opaque or +milky. + +The value of mineral water as a healthful or necessary drink has +been greatly exaggerated. While it may do good in some +instances, it is not nearly as beneficial as is commonly +supposed. Instead of it always doing good the contrary is often +true. + +If a mineral water is desired there is no necessity of visiting a +mineral spring to obtain it, as it can be made artificially at +home or at the nearest pharmacy in any quantity or of any quality +desired, with the additional advantage of having it contain +exactly the ingredients wanted. There are nearly as many mineral +waters on the market as there are patent medicines, and both are +about equally misrepresented and deceiving. All classes of +people would undoubtedly be greatly benefited in health, strength +and longevity if more attention was given to the quality of our +domestic water supply. Any one who needs a change, other things +being equal, should seek a resort that furnishes pure, soft water +rather than choose a spring that only boasts of its mineral +properties. Not all of the benefit that is derived from a course +at watering place is due to the virtues of the water, be it ever +so potent. The change of environment, climate, diet, bathing, +etc., are each factors that contribute something towards a cure. + +Next to using pure water as a beverage it is important to know +how to bathe properly, such knowledge being simple and plain +enough if only common sense is used. Usually the more simply a +bath is administered the better are the results. Some people +seem to think that in order to derive any benefit from a bath it +is necessary to employ some unusual or complicated process. +Nothing is further from the truth. The plain, tepid bath is the +best for general use. It thoroughly cleanses the body and +produces no unpleasant shock. A hot bath is rarely needed but, +if it is used, enough time should be given after it to rest and +cool off before going out into the open air in order to avoid +taking cold. The good or harm of a bath must be judged by its +effects. + +A bath is only beneficial when it is followed by a healthy +reaction, which is indicated by an agreeable feeling of warmth +and comfort, and is injurious if the subject feels cold, weak or +depressed. A bath does not affect all people alike; what will do +one person good may injure another. It is never wise to +prescribe a stereotyped treatment for every patient. The +disease, temperament and constitution of each individual must be +taken into account and the temperature and frequency of the bath +must be determined and regulated by the necessity and +idiosyncrasies of each case. The amount of bathing that a +strong, full-blooded person could endure would mop out the life +of a thin, bloodless weakling. + +Locally, these springs have become famous because of the +remarkable cures they have effected, and are sought by many sick +people who have failed to find relief by other means. Before the +white man came the Indians used the water for curing their sick. +The water is curative in rheumatism, neuralgia, dyspepsia, blood +and skin disorders and kidney complaint. The water cure is all +right even if it does not always fulfill every expectation. + +Hooker's hot springs is a pleasant place to visit for people who +are not invalids. It is off the beaten path of travel and is an +ideal spot for the tired man who needs a rest. It has not yet +been overrun by the crowd, but retains all of the natural charm +of freshness which the old resorts have lost. Here nature riots +in all of her wild beauty and has not yet been perceptibly marred +by the despoiling hand of man. + +Aside from the luxury of the baths which the place affords the +visitor can find a great deal to please him. The climate is +healthful and the weather pleasant during most of the year. In +the near vicinity much can be found in nature that is +interesting. Never-failing mountain streams, deep canons and +dark forests wait to be visited and explored, while curiosities +in animal and vegetable life abound. Not far off is a place here +perfect geodes of chalcedony are found. + +Mining and ranching are the leading industries of the country and +a visit to some neighboring mine or cattle ranch is not without +interest to the novice. But, if he starts out on such a trip he +must decide to make a day of it, as the country is sparsely +settled and the distances long between camps. If the +accommodations where he stops are not always luxurious the +welcome is cordial and the entertainment comfortable. The new +experience is also delightfully romantic. + + + +CHAPTER X +CANON ECHOES + +The Colorado Plateau, in northern Arizona, is the union of the +Rocky and Sierra Nevada mountains in their southward trend, and +forms the southern rim of the Great Basin. This depression was +once a vast inland sea, of which nothing remains but the Salt +Lake of Utah, and is drained by the Colorado river. The entire +plateau region is remarkable for its grand scenery--abysmal +chasms, sculptured buttes and towering cliffs, which are +"brightly colored as if painted by artist Gods, not stained and +daubed by inharmonious hues but beautiful as flowers and gorgeous +as the clouds." The plateau is an immense woodland of pines +known as the Coconino Forest. + +The San Francisco mountains, nearly thirteen thousand feet high, +stand in the middle of the plateau which is, also, the center of +an extensive extinct volcanic field. The whole country is +covered with cinders which were thrown from active volcanoes +centuries ago. The track of the Santa Fe Pacific railroad, clear +across Arizona, is ballasted with cinders instead of gravel that +were dug from pits on its own right of way. + +Near the southern base of the San Francisco mountains is the town +of Flagstaff built in a natural forest of pine trees. It is +sometimes called the Skylight City because of its high altitude, +rarefied atmosphere and brilliant sky. It is said to have been +named by a company of soldiers who camped on the spot while out +hunting Indians, when the country was new. It happened to be on +the Fourth of July and they celebrated the day by unfurling Old +Glory from the top of a pine tree, which was stripped of its +branches and converted into a flagstaff. Here is located the +Lowell Observatory, which has made many valuable discoveries in +astronomy. It is a delightful spot and offers many attractions +to the scientist, tourist and health seeker. + +One of the many interesting objects of this locality is the Ice +Cave situated eight miles southwest of the town. It not only +attracts the curious, but its congealed stores are also drawn on +by the people who live in the vicinity when the domestic ice +supply runs short. The cave is entered from the side of a ravine +and its opening is arched by lava rock. How the ice ever got +there is a mystery unless it is, as Mr. Volz claims, glacial ice +that was covered and preserved by a thick coat of cinders which +fell when the San Francisco Peaks were in active eruption. As +far as observed the ice never becomes more nor ever gets less, +except what is removed by mining. + +The region is unusually attractive to the naturalist. It is the +best field for the study of entomology that is known. But all +nature riots here. Dr. C. Hart Merriam, in his report of a +biological survey of the San Francisco mountains and Painted +Desert, states that there are seven distinct life zones in a +radius of twenty-five miles running the entire gamut from the +Arctic to the Tropic.[2] The variety of life which he found and +describes cannot be duplicated in the same space anywhere else +upon the globe. + +[2] Results of a Biological Survey of the San Francisco Mountain +Region and Painted Desert of the Little Colorado, Arizona. 1890. + + +But the greatest natural wonder of this region and, it is claimed +by competent judges of the whole world, is the Grand Canon of +Arizona, which is seventy-two miles north of Flagstaff. +Thurber's stage line, when it was running, carried passengers +through in one day, but after the railroad was built from +Williams to Bright Angel the stage was abandoned. However it is +an interesting trip and many people make it every summer by +private conveyance who go for an outing and can travel leisurely. +It is a good natural road and runs nearly the entire distance +through an open pine forest. + +Two roads leave Flagstaff for the Canon called respectively the +summer and winter roads. The former goes west of the San +Francisco mountains and intersects with the winter road that runs +east of the peaks at Cedar Ranch, which was the midway station of +the old stage line. The summer road is the one usually +travelled, as the winter road is almost destitute of water. + +The road ascends rapidly from an elevation of seven thousand feet +at Flagstaff to eleven thousand feet at the summit, and descends +more gradually to Cedar Ranch, where the elevation is less than +five thousand feet and in distance is about halfway to the Canon. +Here cedar and pinon trees take the place of the taller pines. +Cedar Ranch is on an arm of the Painted Desert, which stretches +away towards the east over a wide level plain to the horizon. +From this point the road ascends again on an easy grade until it +reaches an elevation of eight thousand feet at the Canon. + +During the long drive through the pine woods the appearance of +the country gives no hint of a desert, but beautiful scenery +greets the eye on every hand. The air is filled with the +fragrance of pine and ozone that is as exhilarating as wine. No +signs of severe windstorms are seen in broken branches and fallen +trees. If an occasional tree is found lying prostrate it was +felled either by the woodman's ax or one of nature's destructive +forces, fire or decay, or both. But the large number of +shattered trees which are encountered during the day give +evidence that the lightning is frequently very destructive in its +work. The bark of the pine trees is of a reddish gray color, +which contrasts brightly with the green foliage. + +The winter road furnishes even more attractions than the summer +road on which line a railroad should be built through to the +Canon. Soon after leaving town a side road leads to the cliff +dwellings in Walnut Canon. Along the wayside a signboard points +the direction to the Bottomless Pit, which is a deep hole in the +ground that is only one of many such fissures in the earth found +on the Colorado Plateau. Four miles east of Canon Diablo a +narrow fissure from a few inches to several feet wide and +hundreds of feet deep has been traced in a continuous line over +one hundred miles. + +Further on a group of cave dwellings can be seen among the rocks +upon a distant bill. A turn in the road next brings the Sunset +Mountain into view. Its crest glows with the colors of sunset, +which unusual effect is produced by colored rocks that are of +volcanic origin. Black cinders cover its steep sides and its +brow is the rim of a deep crater. Between Sunset Peak and +O'Leary Peak is the Black Crater from which flowed at one time +thick streams of black lava that hardened into rock and are known +as the lava beds. Scores of crater cones and miles of black +cinders can be seen from Sunset Mountain, and lava and cinders of +this region look as fresh as if an eruption had occurred but +yesterday. + +A peculiarity of the pine trees which grow in the cinders is that +their roots do not go down but spread out upon the surface. Some +of the roots are entirely bare while others are half buried in +cinders. They are from an inch to a foot thick and from ten to +fifty feet long, according to the size of the tree which they +support. The cause of the queer root formation is not apparent. + +The whole plateau country is scarce of water. The Grand Canon +drains the ground dry to an unusual depth. The nearest spring of +water to the Canon at Grand View is Cedar Spring, forty miles +distant. Until recently all the water used at the canon was +either packed upon burros from springs down in the canon or +caught in ponds or reservoirs from rains or melted snow. Since +the completion of the railroad the water is hauled in on cars +constructed for that purpose. + +The watershed of the canon slopes away from the rim and instead +of the storm water running directly into the river it flows in +the opposite direction. Only after a long detour of many miles +does it finally reach the river by the Little Colorado or +Cataract Creek. + +Now that the Grand Canon is made accessible by rail over a branch +road of the Santa Fe from Williams on the main line, it is +reached in comparative ease and comfort. But to stop at the +Bright Angel Hotel and look over the guard rail on the cliff down +into the canon gives merely a glimpse of what there is to see. A +brief stay of one day is better than not stopping at all, but to +get even an inkling of its greatness and grandeur days and weeks +must be spent in making trips up and down and into the canon. + +After having seen the canon at Bright Angel the next move should +be to go to Grand View fourteen miles up the canon. An all day's +stage ride from Flagstaff to the canon was tiresome, but the two +hours' drive through the pine woods from Bright Angel to Grand +View is only pleasant recreation. + +Seeing the Grand Canon for the first time does not necessarily +produce the startling and lachrymose effects that have been +described by some emotional writers, but the first sight never +disappoints and always leaves a deep and lasting impression. + +As immense as is the great chasm it is formed in such harmonious +proportions that it does not shock the senses. But as everything +about the canon is built on such a grand scale and the eyes not +being accustomed to such sights it is impossible to comprehend +it--to measure its dimensions correctly or note every detail of +form and color at the first glance. As the guide remarked, "God +made it so d-- big that you can't lie about it." + +To comprehend it at all requires time to re-educate the senses +and make them accustomed to the new order of things. But even a +cursory view will always remain in the memory as the event of a +lifetime in the experience of the average mortal. + +Distance in the canon cannot be measured by the usual standards. +There are sheer walls of rocks that are thousands of feet high +and as many more feet deep, but where the bottom seems to be is +only the beginning of other chasms which lie in the dark shadows +and descend into yet deeper depths below. The canon is not a +single empty chasm, which is the universal conception of a canon, +but consists of a complex system of sub and side canons that is +bewildering. Out of its depths rise an infinite number and +variety of castellated cliffs and sculptured buttes that +represent every conceivable variety of architecture. They have +the appearance of a resurrected city of great size and beauty +which might have been built by an army of Titans then buried and +forgotten. + +A trip into the canon down one of the trails makes its magnitude +even more impressive than a rim view. The distance across the +chasm is also much greater than what it seems to be, which is +demonstrated by the blue haze that fills the canon. The nearby +buttes are perfectly distinct, but as the distance increases +across the great gorge the haze gradually thickens until the +opposite wall is almost obscured by the mist. + +The myriads of horizontal lines which mark the different strata +of rocks have the appearance of a maze of telegraph wires strung +through the canon. + +A ride leisurely on horseback along the rim trail from Thurber's +old camp to Bissell's Point, seven miles up the canon, and back +is easily made in a day. It presents a panorama of magnificent +views all along the rim, but Bissell's is conceded to be the best +view point on the canon. From this point about thirty miles of +river can be seen as it winds in and out deep down among the +rocks. The Colorado river is a large stream, but as seen here a +mile below and several miles out, it dwindles into insignificance +and appears no larger than a meadow brook. The river looks +placid in the distance, but is a raging, turbulent torrent in +which an ordinary boat cannot live and the roar of its wild +waters can be distinctly heard as of the rushing of a distant +train of cars. + +A second day spent in riding down the canon to Grand View Point +and back is equally delightful. Looking across a bend in the +canon from Grand View Point to Bissell's Point the distance seems +to be scarcely more than a stone's throw, yet it is fully half +the distance of the circuitous route by the rim trail. + +There are three trails leading into the canon and down to the +river, the Bright Angel, Grand View and Hance trails, which are +at intervals of eight and twelve miles apart. They are equally +interesting and comparatively safe if the trip is made on the +back of a trained pony or burro with a competent guide. + +The Hance trail is a loop and is twenty miles long. It is seven +miles down to the river, six miles up the stream and seven miles +back to the rim. It was built single handed by Captain John +Hance, who has lived many years in the canon. The trail is free +to pedestrians, but yields the captain a snug income from horse +hire and his own services as guide for tourists who go over the +trail. + +Captain Hance is an entertaining raconteur and he spins many +interesting yarns for the amusement, if not the edification, of +his guests. The serious manner in which he relates his stories +makes it sometimes hard to tell whether he is in jest or earnest. +His acknowledged skill in mountaineering, and felicity in +romancing has won for him more than a local reputation and the +distinguished title of Grand Canon Guide and Prevaricator. + +He relates how "once upon a time" he pursued a band of mountain +sheep on the rim of the canon. Just as he was about to secure +his quarry the sheep suddenly turned a short corner and +disappeared behind some rocks. Before he realized his danger he +found himself on the brink of a yawning abyss and under such a +momentum that he could not turn aside or stop his horse. +Together they went over the cliff in an awful leap. He expected +to meet instant death on the rocks below and braced himself for +the shock. As the fall was greater than usual, being over a mile +deep in a perpendicular line, it required several seconds for the +descending bodies to traverse the intervening space, which gave +him a few moments to think and plan some way of escape. At the +critical moment a happy inspiration seized and saved him. On the +instant that his horse struck the rock and was dashed to pieces, +the captain sprang nimbly from the saddle to his feet unharmed. +To prove the truth of his statement he never misses an +opportunity to point out to the tourist the spot where his horse +fell, and shows the white bones of his defunct steed bleaching in +the sun. + +At Moran's Point there is a narrow cleft in the rocks which he +calls the Fat Woman's Misery. It received its name several years +ago from a circumstance that happened while he was conducting a +party of tourists along the rim trail. To obtain a better view +the party essayed to squeeze through the opening, in which +attempt all succeeded except one fat women who stuck fast. After +vainly trying to extricate her from her uncomfortable position he +finally told her that there was but one of two things to do, +either remain where she was and starve to death or take one +chance in a thousand of being blown out alive by dynamite. After +thinking a moment she decided to try the "one chance in a +thousand" experiment. + +A charge of dynamite was procured and the fuse lighted. After +the explosion he returned to the spot and found the result +satisfactory. The blast had released the woman, who was alive +and sitting upon a rock. He approached her cheerfully and said: + +"Madam, how do you feel?" She looked up shocked, but evidently +very much relieved, and replied "Why, sir, I feel first rate, but +the jolt gave me a little toothache." + +He tells another story of how he once took a drink from the +Colorado river. The water is never very clear in the muddy +stream but at that particular time it was unusually murky. He +had nothing with which to dip the water and lay down on the bank +to take a drink. Being very thirsty he paid no attention to the +quality of the water, but only knew that it tasted wet. The +water, however, grew thicker as he drank until it became balled +up in his mouth, and stuck fast in his throat and threatened to +choke him. He tried to bite it off but failed because his teeth +were poor. At last becoming desperate, he pulled his hunting +knife from his belt and cut himself loose from his drink. + +Different theories have been advanced to account for the origin +of the Grand Canon, but it is a question whether it is altogether +due to any one cause. Scientists say that it is the work of +water erosion, but to the layman it seems impossible. If an +ocean of water should flow over rocks during eons of ages it does +not seem possible that it could cut such a channel. + +Water sometimes does queer things, but it has never been known to +reverse nature. By a fundamental law of hydrostatics water +always seeks its level and flows in the direction of least +resistance. If water ever made the Grand Canon it had to climb a +hill and cut its way through the backbone of the Buckskin +mountains, which are not a range of peaks but a broad plateau of +solid rock. Into this rock the canon is sunk more than a mile +deep, from six to eighteen miles wide and over two hundred miles +long. + +In order to make the theory of water erosion tenable it is +assumed that the Colorado river started in its incipiency like +any other river. After a time the river bed began to rise and +was gradually pushed up more and more by some unknown +subterranean force as the water cut deeper and deeper into the +rock until the Grand Canon was formed. + +Captain Hance has a theory that the canon originated in an +underground stream which tunneled until it cut its way through to +the surface. As improbable as is this theory it is as plausible +as the erosion theory, but both theories appear to be equally +absurd. + +At some remote period of time the entire southwest was rent and +torn by an awful cataclysm which caused numerous fissures and +seams to appear all over the country. The force that did the +work had its origin in the earth and acted by producing lateral +displacement rather than direct upheaval. Whenever that event +occurred the fracture which marks the course of the Grand Canon +was made and, breaking through the enclosing wall of the Great +Basin, set free the waters of an inland sea. What the seismic +force began the flood of liberated water helped to finish, and +there was born the greatest natural wonder of the known world. + +There are canons all over Arizona and the southwest that resemble +the Grand Canon, except that they were made on a smaller scale. +Many of them are perfectly dry and apparently never contained any +running water. They are all so much alike that they were +evidently made at the same time and by the same cause. Walnut +Canon and Canon Diablo are familiar examples of canon formation. + +The rocks in the canons do not stand on end, but lie in +horizontal strata and show but little dip anywhere. Indeed, the +rocks lie so plumb in many places that they resemble the most +perfect masonry. + +The rim rock of the Mogollon Mesa is of the same character as the +walls of the Grand Canon and is an important part of the canon +system. It is almost a perpendicular cliff from one to three +thousand feet high which extends from east to west across central +Arizona and divides the great northern plateau from the southern +valleys. It is one side of an immense vault or canon wall whose +mate has been lost or dropped completely out of sight. + +In many of the canons where water flows continuously, effects are +produced that are exactly the opposite of those ascribed to water +erosion. Instead of the running water cutting deeper into the +earth it has partly filled the canon with alluvium, thereby +demonstrating nature's universal leveling process. Even the +floods of water which pour through them during every rainy season +with an almost irresistible force carry in more soil than they +wash out and every freshet only adds new soil to the old +deposits. If these canons were all originally made by water +erosion as is claimed, why does not the water continue to act in +the same manner now but, instead, completely reverses itself as +above stated? There can be but one of two conclusions, either +that nature has changed or that scientists are mistaken. + +The Aravaipa in southern Arizona is an interesting canon and is +typical of its kind. Its upper half is shallow and bounded by +low rolling foothills, but in the middle it suddenly deepens and +narrows into a box canon, which has high perpendicular walls of +solid rock like the Grand Canon. It is a long, narrow valley +sunk deep into the earth and has great fertility and much wild +beauty. It measures from a few feet to a mile in width and +drains a large scope of rough country. The surface water which +filters through from above reappears in numerous springs of clear +cold water in the bottom of the canon. In the moist earth and +under the shade of forest trees grow a variety of rare flowers, +ferns and mosses. + +Where the canon begins to box a large spring of pure cold water +issues from the sand in the bottom of a wash which is the source +of the Aravaipa creek. It flows through many miles of rich +alluvial land and empties into the San Predo river. The valley +was settled many years ago by men who were attracted to the spot +by its rare beauty, fertility of soil and an abundance of wood +and water. + +The land is moist and covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, +which will average over one hundred feet high. The trees are as +large and the foliage as dense as in any eastern forest. Being +sunk deep in the earth the narrow valley at the bottom of the +canon can only be seen from above. When viewed from some +favorable point it has the appearance of a long green ribbon +stretched loosely over a brown landscape. The sight of it is a +pleasant surprise to the weary wayfarer who, after traveling over +many miles of dreary desert road, finds himself suddenly ushered +into such pleasant scenes. + +The canons of Arizona are unrivaled for grandeur, sublimity and +beauty, and will attract an ever increasing number of admirers. + + + +CHAPTER XI +THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN + +Ten miles southeast of Canon Diablo station on the Santa Fe +Pacific Railroad, stands the Meteorite Mountain of Arizona, on a +wide, open plain of the Colorado Plateau. It is two hundred feet +high and, as seen at a distance, has the appearance of a low, +flat mountain. Its top forms the rim of an immense, round, +bowl-shaped hole in the ground that has almost perpendicular +sides, is one mile wide and over six hundred feet deep. The +hole, originally, was evidently very much deeper than it is at +the present time, but it has gradually become filled with debris +to its present depth. The bottom of the hole has a floor of +about forty acres of level ground which merges into a talus. + +This formation is sometimes called the Crater, because of its +shape, but there is no evidence of volcanic action. Locally it +is known as Coon Butte, which is a misnomer; but Meteorite +Mountain is a name with a meaning. + +It is not known positively just how or when the mountain was +formed, but the weight of evidence seems to favor the meteorite +theory, which is that at some remote period of time a monster +meteorite fell from the sky and buried itself in the earth. + +Mr. F. W. Volz, who has lived in the country twenty years and is +an intelligent observer of natural phenomena, has made a careful +study of the mountain, and it is his opinion that such an event +actually occurred and that a falling star made the mountain. +When the descending meteorite, with its great weight and terrific +momentum, hit the earth something had to happen. It buried +itself deep beneath the surface and caused the earth to heave up +on all sides. The effect produced is aptly illustrated, on a +small scale, by throwing a rock into thick mud. + +The impact of the meteorite upon the earth not only caused an +upheaval of the surface, but it also crushed and displaced the +rocks beneath. As the stellar body penetrated deeper into the +earth its force became more concentrated and either compressed +the rocks into a denser mass or ground them to powder. + +The plain on which the mountain stands is covered by a layer of +red sandstone of variable thickness, as it is much worn in places +by weather erosion. Below the top covering of red sandstone lie +three hundred feet of limestone and beneath the limestone five +hundred feet more of white sandstone. This arrangement of the +rocks is plainly seen in the walls of Canon Diablo. + +The displaced strata of rocks in the hole are tilted and stand +outwards and great boulders of red sandstone and limestone lie +scattered all about. If the hole had been made by an explosion +from below large pieces of rock from each one of the different +rock strata would have been thrown out; but, while as just +stated, there are plenty of huge blocks of red sandstone and +limestone, there are no large pieces of white sandstone. After +the superficial layers of rock had been broken up and expelled en +masse, the deeper rock of white sandstone, being more confined, +could not reach the surface in the shape of boulders, but had +first to be broken up and ground to powder before it could +escape. Then the white sandstones in the form of fine sand was +blown skywards by the collision and afterwards settled down upon +the mountain. The mountain is covered with this white sand, +which could only have come out of the big hole as there is no +other white sand or sandstone found anywhere else upon the entire +plain. + +In the vicinity of the mountain about ten tons of meteorites have +been found, varying in size from the fraction of an ounce to one +thousand pounds or more. Most of the meteorites were found by +Mr. Volz, who searched diligently every foot of ground for miles +around. The smaller pieces were picked up on or near the rim, +and they increased in size in proportion as they were distant +from the mountain until, on a circle eight miles out, the largest +piece was found. Meteorites were found upon all sides of the +mountain but they seemed to be thickest on the east side. + +The writer first visited the mountain in the summer of 1901 and +it was the greatest surprise of his six weeks' trip sightseeing +in northern Arizona where are found many natural wonders. He was +fortunate enough to find a three pound meteorite within five +minutes after arriving on the rim, which Mr. Volz said was the +first specimen found by anyone in over four years. + +Professor G. K. Gilbert of the United States Geological Survey +visited the mountain several years ago to investigate the +phenomenon and, if possible, to determine its origin by +scientific test. He gave the results of his researches in a very +able and comprehensive address,[3] delivered before the +Geological Society of Washington, D.C. The existing conditions +did not seem to fit his theories, and he concluded his work +without arriving at any definite conclusion. + +[3] The Origin of Hypotheses. 1895. + + +After disposing of several hypotheses as being incompetent to +prove the origin of the mountain he decided to try the magnetic +test. He assumed that if such a meteorite was buried there the +large mass of metallic iron must indicate its presence by +magnetic attraction. By means of the latest scientific apparatus +he conducted an elaborate magnetic experiment which gave only +negative results. + +He discussed at length the various hypotheses which might explain +the origin of the crater and concluded his notable address as +follows: + +"Still another contribution to the subject, while it does not +increase the number of hypotheses, is nevertheless important in +that it tends to diminish the weight of the magnetic evidence and +thus to reopen the question which Mr. Baker and I supposed we had +settled. Our fellow-member, Mr. Edwin E. Howell, through whose +hands much of the meteoric iron had passed, points out that each +of the iron masses, great and small, is in itself a complete +individual. They have none of the characters that would be found +if they had been broken one from another, and yet, as they are +all of one type and all reached the earth within a small +district, it must be supposed that they were originally connected +in some way. + +"Reasoning by analogy from the characters of other meteoric +bodies, he infers that the irons were all included in a large +mass of some different material, either crystalline rock, such as +constitutes the class of meteorites called 'stony,' or else a +compound of iron and sulphur, similar to certain nodules +discovered inside the iron masses when sawn in two. Neither of +these materials is so enduring as iron, and the fact that they +are not now found on the plain does not prove their original +absence. Moreover, the plain is strewn in the vicinity of the +crater with bits of limonite, a mineral frequently produced by +the action of air and water on iron sulphides, and this material +is much more abundant than the iron. If it be true that the iron +masses were thus imbedded, like plums in an astral pudding, the +hypothetic buried star might have great size and yet only small +power to attract the magnetic needle. Mr. Howell also proposes a +qualification of the test by volumes, suggesting that some of the +rocks beneath the buried star might have been condensed by the +shock so as to occupy less space. + +"These considerations are eminently pertinent to the study of the +crater and will find appropriate place in any comprehensive +discussion of its origin; but the fact which is peculiarly worthy +of note at the present time is their ability to unsettle a +conclusion that was beginning to feel itself secure. This +illustrates the tentative nature not only of the hypotheses of +science, but of what science calls its results. + +"The method of hypotheses, and that method is the method of +science, founds its explanations of nature wholly on observed +facts, and its results are ever subject to the limitations +imposed by imperfect observation. However grand, however widely +accepted, however useful its conclusions, none is so sure that it +cannot be called into question by a newly discovered fact. In +the domain of the world's knowledge there is no infallibility." + +After Prof. Gilbert had finished his experiments, Mr. Volz tried +some of his own along the same line. He found upon trial that +the meteorites in his possession were non-magnetic, or, +practically so. If these, being pieces of the larger meteorite +which was buried in the hole, were non-magnetic, all of it must +be non-magnetic, which would account for the failure of the +needle to act or manifest any magnetic attraction in the greater +test. + +Mr. Volz also made another interesting discovery in this same +connection. All over the meteorite zone are scattered about +small pieces of iron which he calls "iron shale." It is +analogous to the true meteorite, but is "burnt" or "dead." He +regards these bits of iron as dead sparks from a celestial forge, +which fell from the meteorite as it blazed through the heavens. + +In experimenting with the stuff he found that it was not only +highly magnetic, but also possessed polarity in a marked degree; +and was entirely different from the true meteorite. Here was a +curiosity, indeed; a small, insignificant and unattractive stone +possessed of strong magnetic polarity, a property of electricity +that is as mysterious and incomprehensible as is electricity +itself. + +Another peculiarity of Canon Diablo meteorite is that it contains +diamonds. When the meteorite was first discovered by a Mexican +sheep herder he supposed that he had found a large piece of +silver, because of its great weight and luster, but he was soon +informed of his mistake. Not long afterwards a white prospector +who heard of the discovery undertook to use it to his own +advantage, by claiming that he had found a mine of pure iron, +which he offered for sale. In an attempt to dispose of the +property samples of the ore were sent east for investigation. +Some of the stone fell into the hands of Dr. Foote, who +pronounced it to be meteorite and of celestial origin. + +Sir William Crookes in discussing the theory of the meteoric +origin of diamonds[4] says "the most striking confirmation of the +meteoric theory comes from Arizona. Here, on a broad open plain, +over an area about five miles in diameter, were scattered from +one to two thousand masses of metallic iron, the fragments +varying in weight from half a ton to a fraction of an ounce. +There is little doubt that these masses formed part of a +meteorite shower, although no record exists as to when the fall +took place. Curiously enough, near the center, where most of the +meteoritics have been found, is a crater with raised edges three +quarters of a mile in diameter and about six hundred feet deep, +bearing exactly the appearance which would be produced had a +mighty mass of iron or falling star struck the ground, scattering +in all directions, and buried itself deep under the surface. +Altogether ten tons of this iron have been collected, and +specimens of Canyon Diablo Meteorite are in most collectors' +cabinets. + +[4] Diamonds. Wm. Crookes, F.R.S. Smithsonian Report. 1897. + + +"An ardent mineralogist, the late Dr. Foote, in cutting a section +of this meteorite, found the tools were injured by something +vastly harder than metallic iron, and an emery wheel used in +grinding the iron had been ruined. He examined the specimen +chemically, and soon after announced to the scientific world that +the Canyon Diablo Meteorite contained black and transparent +diamonds. This startling discovery was afterwards verified by +Professors Friedel and Moissan, who found that the Canyon Diablo +Meteorite contained the three varieties of carbon--diamond +(transparent and black), graphite and amorphous carbon. Since +this revelation the search for diamonds in meteorites has +occupied the attention of chemists all over the world. + +"Here, then, we have absolute proof of the truth of the meteoric +theory. Under atmospheric influences the iron would rapidly +oxidize and rust away, coloring the adjacent soil with red oxide +of iron. The meteoric diamonds would be unaffected and left on +the surface to be found by explorers when oxidation had removed +the last proof of their celestial origin. That there are still +lumps of iron left in Arizona is merely due to the extreme +dryness of the climate and the comparatively short time that the +iron has been on our planet. We are here witnesses to the course +of an event which may have happened in geologic times anywhere on +the earth's surface. + +About a year ago several mineral claims were located in the +crater by a company of scientific and moneyed men. The required +assessment work was done and a patent for the land obtained from +the government. The object of the enterprise is for a double +purpose, if possible to solve the mystery of the mountain, and if +successful in finding the "hypothetic buried star" to excavate +and appropriate it for its valuable iron. + +A shaft has been sunk one hundred and ninety-five feet deep, +where a strong flow of water was encountered in a bed of white +sand which temporarily stopped the work. A gasoline engine and +drill were procured and put in operation and the drill was driven +down forty feet further when it stuck fast in white quicksand. +It is the intention of the company to continue the work and carry +it on to a successful finish. + +Nothing of value was found in the hole dug, but some of the +workmen in their leisure hours found on the surface two large +meteorites weighing one hundred and one hundred and fifty pounds +respectively, besides a number of smaller fragments. + +The Meteorite Mountain is in a class by itself and is, in a +way, as great a curiosity as is the Grand Canon. It is little +known and has not received the attention that it deserves. +It is, indeed, marvelous and only needs to be seen to be +appreciated. + + + +CHAPTER XII +THE CLIFF DWELLERS + +In the canons of the Colorado river and its tributaries are found +the ruins of an ancient race of cliff dwellers. These ruins are +numerous and are scattered over a wide scope of country, which +includes Arizona and portions of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico. +Many of them are yet in a good state of preservation, but all +show the marks of age and decay. They are not less than four +hundred years old and are, in all probability, much older. Their +preservation is largely due to their sheltered position among the +rocks and an exceptionally dry climate. + +The houses are invariably built upon high cliffs on shelving +rocks in places that are almost inaccessible. In some instances +they can only be reached by steps cut into the solid rock, which +are so old and worn that they are almost obliterated. Their +walls so nearly resemble the stratified rocks upon which they +stand, that they are not easily distinguished from their +surroundings. + +The cliffs are often sloping, sometimes overhanging, but more +frequently perpendicular. The weather erosion of many centuries +has caused the softer strata of exposed rocks in the cliffs to +disintegrate and fall away, which left numberless caverns wherein +this ancient and mysterious people chose to build their eyrie +homes to live with the eagles. The houses are built of all +shapes and sizes and, apparently, were planned to fit the +irregular and limited space of their environment. Circular watch +towers look down from commanding heights which, from their shape +and position, were evidently intended to serve the double purpose +of observation and defense. + +In the search for evidence of their antiquity it is believed that +data has been found which denotes great age. In the construction +of some of their houses, notably those in the Mancos Canon, is +displayed a technical knowledge of architecture and a +mathematical accuracy which savages do not possess; and the fine +masonry of dressed stone and superior cement seem to prove that +Indians were not the builders. On the contrary, to quote a +recent writer, "The evidence goes to show that the work was done +by skilled workmen who were white masons and who built for white +people in a prehistoric age." In this connection it is singular, +if not significant, that the natives when first discovered +believed in a bearded white man whom they deified as the Fair God +of whose existence they had obtained knowledge from some source +and in whose honor they kept their sacred altar fires burning +unquenched. + +The relics that have been found in the ruins are principally +implements of the stone age, but are of sufficient variety to +indicate a succession of races that were both primitive and +cultured and as widely separated in time as in knowledge. + +The cliff dwellings were not only the abodes of their original +builders, but were occupied and deserted successively by the +chipped stone implement maker, the polisher of hard stone, the +basket maker and the weaver. + +Among the relics that have been found in the ruins are some very +fine specimens of pottery which are as symmetrical and well +finished as if they had been turned on a potter's wheel, and +covered with an opaque enamel of stanniferous glaze composed of +lead and tin that originated with the Phoenicians, and is as old +as history. Can it be possible that the cliff dwellers are a +lost fragment of Egyptian civilization? + +The cliff ruins in Arizona are not only found in the canons of +the Colorado river, but also in many other places. The finest of +them are Montezuma's Castle on Beaver creek, and the Casa Blanca +in Canon de Chelly. Numerous other ruins are found on the Rio +Verde, Gila river, Walnut Canon and elsewhere. + +The largest and finest group of cliff dwellings are those on the +Mesa Verde in Colorado. They are fully described in the great +work[5] of Nordenskiold, who spent much time among them. The +different houses are named after some peculiarity of appearance +or construction, like the Cliff Palace, which contains more than +one hundred rooms, Long House, Balcony House, Spruce Tree House, +etc. + +[5] The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde, by F. Nordenskiold, +Stockholm. 1893. + + +He obtained a large quantity of relics, which are also fully +described, consisting of stone implements, pottery, cotton and +feather cloth, osier and palmillo mats, yucca sandals, weaving +sticks, bone awls, corn and beans. + +Many well-preserved mummies were found buried in graves that were +carefully closed and sealed. The bodies were wrapped in a fine +cotton cloth of drawn work, which was covered by a coarser cloth +resembling burlap, and all inclosed in a wrapping of palmillo +matting tied with a cord made of the fiber of cedar bark. The +hair is fine and of a brown color, and not coarse and black like +the hair of the wild Indians. Mummies have been exhumed that +have red or light colored hair such as usually goes with a fair +skin. This fact has led some to believe that the cliff dwellers +belonged to the white race, but not necessarily so, as this +quality of hair also belongs to albinos, who doubtless lived +among the cliff dwellers as they do among the Moquis and Zunis at +the present day, and explains the peculiarity of hair just +mentioned. + +These remains may be very modern, as some choose to believe, but, +in all probability, they are more ancient than modern. Mummies +encased in wood and cloth have been taken from the tombs of Egypt +in an almost perfect state of preservation which cannot be less +than two thousand years old, and are, perhaps, more than double +that age. As there is no positive knowledge as to when the cliff +dwellers flourished, one man's guess on the subject is as good as +another's. + +An important discovery was recently made near Mancos, Colorado, +where a party of explorers found in some old cliff dwellings +graves beneath graves that were entirely different from anything +yet discovered. They were egg-shaped, built of stone and +plastered smoothly with clay. They contained mummies, cloth, +sandals, beads and various other trinkets. There was no pottery, +but many well-made baskets, and their owners have been called the +basket makers. There was also a difference in the skulls found. +The cliff dwellers' skull is short and flattened behind, while +the skulls that were found in these old graves were long, narrow +and round on the back.[6] + +[6] An Elder Brother of the Cliff Dwellers, by T. M. Prudden, +M.D. Harper's Magazine, June, 1897. + + +Rev. H. M. Baum, who has traveled all over the southwest and +visited every large ruin in the country, considers that Canon de +Chelly and its branch, del Muerto, is the most interesting +prehistoric locality in the United States. The Navajos, who now +live in the canon, have a tradition that the people who occupied +the old cliff houses were all destroyed in one day by a wind of +fire.[7] The occurrence, evidently, was similar to what happened +recently on the island of Martinique, when all the inhabitants of +the village of St. Pierre perished in an hour by the eruption of +Mont Pelee. + +[7] Pueblo and Cliff Dwellers of the Southwest. Records of the +Past, December, 1902. + + +Contemporaneous with the cliff dwellers there seems to have lived +a race of people in the adjoining valleys who built cities and +tilled the soil. Judged by their works they must have been an +industrious, intelligent and numerous people. All over the +ground are strewn broken pieces of pottery that are painted in +bright colors and artistic designs which, after ages of exposure +to the weather, look as fresh as if newly made, The relics that +have been taken from the ruins are similar to those found in the +cliff houses, and consist mostly of stone implements and pottery. + +In the Gila valley, near the town of Florence, stands the now +famous Casa Grande ruin, which is the best preserved of all these +ancient cities. It was a ruin when the Spaniards first +discovered it, and is a type of the ancient communal house. Its +thick walls are composed of a concrete adobe that is as hard as +rock, and its base lines conform to the cardinal points of, the +compass. It is an interesting relic of a past age and an +extinct race and, if it cannot yield up its secrets to science, +it at least appeals to the spirit of romance and mystery. + +Irrigating ditches which were fed from reservoirs supplied their +fields and houses with water. Portions of these old canals are +yet in existence and furnish proof of the diligence and skill of +their builders. The ditches were located on levels that could +not be improved upon for utilizing the land and water to the best +advantage. Modern engineers have not been able to better them +and in many places the old levels are used in new ditches at the +present time. + +Whatever may have been the fate of this ancient people their +destruction must be sought in natural causes rather than by human +warfare. An adverse fate probably cut off their water supply and +laid waste their productive fields. With their crops a failure +and all supplies gone what else could the people do but either +starve or move, but as to the nature of the exodus history is +silent. + +Just how ancient these works are might be difficult to prove, but +they are certainly not modern. The evidence denotes that they +have existed a long time. Where the water in a canal flowed over +solid rock the rock has been much worn. Portions of the old +ditches are filled with lava and houses lie buried in the +vitreous flood. It is certain that the country was inhabited +prior to the last lava flow whether that event occurred hundreds +or thousands of years ago. + +It is claimed that the Pueblo Indians and cliff dwellers are +identical and that the latter were driven from their peaceful +valley homes by a hostile foe to find temporary shelter among the +rocks, but such a conclusion seems to be erroneous in view of +certain facts. + +The cliff dwellings were not temporary camps, as such a migration +would imply, but places of permanent abode. The houses are too +numerous and well constructed to be accounted for on any other +hypothesis. A people fleeing periodically to the cliffs to +escape from an enemy could not have built such houses. Indeed, +they are simply marvelous when considered as to location and +construction. The time that must necessarily have been consumed +in doing the work and the amount of danger and labor involved-- +labor in preparing and getting the material into place and danger +in scaling the dizzy heights over an almost impassible trail, it +seems the boldest assumption to assert that the work was done by +a fleeing and demoralized mob. + +Again, it would be a physical impossibility for a people who were +only accustomed to agricultural pursuits to suddenly and +completely change their habits of life such as living among the +rocks would necessitate. Only by native instinct and daily +practice from childhood would it be possible for any people to +follow the narrow and difficult paths which were habitually +traveled by the cliff dwellers. It requires a clear head and +steady nerves to perform the daring feat in safety--to the truth +of which statement modern explorers can testify who have made the +attempt in recent years at the peril of life and limb while +engaged in searching for archaeological treasures. + +Judged by the everyday life that is familiar to us it seems +incredible that houses should ever have been built or homes +established in such hazardous places, or that any people should +have ever lived there. But that they did is an established fact +as there stand the houses which were built and occupied by human +beings in the midst of surroundings that might appall the +stoutest heart. Children played and men and women wrought on the +brink of frightful precipices in a space so limited and dangerous +that a single misstep made it fatal. + +It is almost impossible to conceive of any condition in life, or +combination of circumstances in the affairs of men, that should +drive any people to the rash act of living in the houses of the +cliff dwellers. Men will sometimes do from choice what they +cannot be made to do by compulsion. It is easier to believe that +the cliff dwellers, being free people, chose of their own accord +the site of their habitation rather than that from any cause they +were compelled to make the choice. Their preference was to live +upon the cliffs, as they were fitted by nature for such an +environment. + +For no other reason, apparently, do the Moquis live upon their +rocky and barren mesas away from everything which the civilized +white man deems desirable, yet, in seeming contentment. The +Supais, likewise, choose to live alone at the bottom of Cataract +Canon where they are completely shut in by high cliffs. Their +only road out is by a narrow and dangerous trail up the side of +the canon, which is little traveled as they seldom leave home and +are rarely visited. + +To affirm that the cliff dwellers were driven from their +strongholds and dispersed by force is pure fiction, nor is there +any evidence to support such a theory. That they had enemies no +one doubts, but, being in possession of an impregnable position +where one man could successfully withstand a thousand, to +surrender would have been base cowardice, and weakness was not a +characteristic of the cliff dwellers. + +The question of their subsistence is likewise a puzzle. They +evidently cultivated the soil where it was practicable to do so +as fragments of farm products have been found in their dwellings, +but in the vicinity of some of the houses there is no tillable +land and the inhabitants must have depended upon other means for +support. The wild game which was, doubtless, abundant furnished +them with meat and edible seeds, fruits and roots from native +plants like the pinon pine and mesquite which together with the +saguaro and mescal, supplied them with a variety of food +sufficient for their subsistence as they do, in a measure, the +wild Indian tribes of that region at the present day. + + + +CHAPTER XII +THE MOQUI INDIANS + +The Indians of Arizona are, perhaps, the most interesting of any +of the American aborigines. They are as unique and picturesque +as is the land which they inhabit; and the dead are no less so +than the living. + +The Pueblo Indians, with which the Moquis are classed, number +altogether about ten thousand and are scattered in twenty-six +villages over Arizona and New Mexico. They resemble each other +in many respects, but do not all speak the same language. They +represent several wholly disconnected stems and are classified +linguistically by Brinton as belonging to the Uto-Aztecan, Kera, +Tehua and Zuni stocks. He believes that the Pueblo civilization +is not due to any one unusually gifted lineage, but is altogether +a local product, developed in independent tribes by their +peculiar environment, which is favorable to agriculture and +sedentary pursuits.[8] + +[8] The American Race, by D. G. Brinton, 1891. + + +The houses are constructed of stone and adobe, are several +stories high and contain many apartments. None of the existing +pueblos are as large as some that are in ruins which, judging by +the quantity of debris, must have been huge affairs. Since the +advent of the Spaniard the style of building has changed somewhat +to conform to modern ideas, so that now some families live in +separate one-story houses having doors and windows, instead, as +formerly, only in large communal houses that were built and +conducted on the communal plan. + +Their manners and customs are peculiar to themselves and make an +interesting study. Their civilization is entirely original, +though modified to some extent by centuries of contact with the +whites. They understand the Spanish language, but have not +forgotten their mother tongue. They hold tenaciously to their +old customs and have not changed materially during the past four +hundred years. + +During that time the Catholic missionaries endeavored to convert +them to Christianity, but with only partial success. While they +appeared to acquiesce, by giving formal obedience to the +requirements of the new religion, they yet held sacred their old +beliefs and in the privacy of the estufa practiced in secret the +rites and ceremonies of their ancient faith. + +The Spaniards undertook to conquer a free and independent people +by teaching them dependence and submission, but signally failed. +After a struggle of two hundred and eighty years Spanish +civilization withdrew and left the Pueblo civilization +victorious. + +Under successive Spanish, Mexican and American rule the Pueblo +has preserved itself intact which fact stamps the Pueblo people +as being eminently valiant, self-reliant and persevering. They +are peaceable, industrious and hospitable and are said to be the +best governed people in the world. As nearly as can be +ascertained they are free from every gross vice and crime and Mr. +C. F. Lummis, who knows them well, believes them to be a +crimeless people. + +The Moquis of Arizona are the most primitive of the Pueblo +Indians and are worthy representatives of their race. They are +of the Aztecan branch of the Shoshonean family and probably the +lineal descendents of the cliff dwellers. Their home is on the +Painted Desert in northeastern Arizona where they have lived for +many centuries. It is a barren and desolate spot and has been +likened to Hades with its fires extinguished. Nevertheless it is +an exceedingly interesting region and furnishes many attractions. +The landscape is highly picturesque and the phantasmagoric +effects of the rarified atmosphere are bewitching. + +In the early Spanish days Moqui land was designated as the +Province of Tusayan and was shrouded in mystery. The seven Moqui +towns were at one time regarded as the seven Cities of Cibola, +but later it was decided that Zuni and not Moqui was the true +Cibola. + +When Coronado, at the head of his intrepid army, marched through +the land in the year 1540, he procured native guides to aid him +in exploring the country, hoping to find fabulous wealth which +failed to materialize. He heard of a race of giants whom he +wished to meet, but instead of finding them discovered a river +with banks so high that they "seemed to be raised three or four +leagues into the air." What he saw was the Colorado River with +its gigantic canon walls and wealth of architectural grandeur and +beauty. The bewildering sight naturally astonished him as it +does every beholder. Think of a fissure in the earth over a mile +deep! But the Grand Canon of Arizona is more that a simple +fissure in the earth. It is composed of many canons which form a +seemingly endless labyrinth of winding aisles and majestic +avenues--fit promenades for the Gods. + +The land of the Moquinos is full of surprises and, although they +are not all as startling as the Grand Canon, they are +sufficiently striking to make Arizona a wonderland that is second +to none on the continent. + +The Moquis live in seven towns or pueblos which are built upon +three rocky mesas that are many miles apart. The mesas are about +seven thousand feet above sea level and from six to eight hundred +feet higher than the surrounding plain. Upon the first or +eastern mesa are located the three towns of Te-wa, Si-chom-ovi +and Wal-pi. Tewa is the newest of the three towns and was built +by the Tehuan allies who came as refugees from the Rio Grande +after the great rebellion of 1680. They were granted permission +to build on the spot by agreeing to defend the Gap, where the +trail leaves the mesa, against all intruders. + +Upon the second or middle mesa are the towns of Mi-shong-novi, +Shi-pauli-ovi and Shong-o-pavi; and on the third mesa is +O-rai-bi, which is the largest of the Moqui villages, and equal +to the other six in size and population. The entire population +of the seven Moqui towns numbers about two thousand souls. + +In 1583 Espejo estimated that the Moquis numbered fifty thousand, +which, doubtless, was an over estimate, as he has been accused of +exaggeration. However, since their discovery their numbers have +greatly diminished and steadily continue to decrease, as if it +were also to be their fate to become extinct like the ancient +cliff dwellers. + +The Moqui Pueblos are well protected by natural barriers upon all +sides except towards the south. Perched upon their high mesas +the people have been safe from every attack of an enemy, but +their fields and flocks in the valley below were defenseless. +The top of the several mesas can only be reached by ascending +steep and difficult trails which are hard to climb but easy to +defend. The paths on the mesas have been cut deep into the hard +rock, which were worn by the soft tread of moccasined feet during +centuries of travel, numbering, perhaps, several times the four +hundred years that are known to history. + +The houses are built of stone and mortar, and rise in terraces +from one to five stories high, back from a street or court to a +sheer wall. Some of the remodeled and newly built houses have +modern doors and windows. The upper stories are reached from the +outside by ladders and stone stairways built into the walls. The +rooms are smoothly plastered and whitewashed and the houses are +kept tidy and clean, but the streets are dirty and unsanitary. + +In these sky cities the Moquis live a retired life that is well +suited to their quiet dispositions, love of home life and +tireless industry. The men are kind, the women virtuous and the +children obedient. Indeed, the children are unusually well +behaved. They seldom quarrel or cry, and a spoiled child cannot +be found among them. The Moquis love peace, and never fight +among themselves. If a dispute occurs it is submitted to a peace +council of old men, whose decision is final and obeyed without a +murmur. + +They are shy and suspicious of strangers, but if addressed by the +magic word lolomi, their reserve is instantly gone. It is the +open sesame to their hearts and homes, and after that the house +contains nothing too good to bestow upon the welcome guest. They +are true children of nature, and have not yet become corrupted by +the vices of white civilization. The worst thing they do is that +the men smoke tobacco. + +Their industries are few, but afford sufficient income to provide +for their modest needs. They are primarily tillers of the soil, +and as agriculturists succeed under circumstances that would +wholly baffle and discourage an eastern farmer. Several years +ago a man was sent out from Washington to teach the Moquis +agriculture, but before a year had passed the teacher had to buy +corn from the Indians. They make baskets and pottery, weave +cloth and dress skins for their own use and to barter in trade +with their neighbors. They like silver and have skilled workmen +who make the white metal into beads and buttons and various +trinkets for personal adornment. They care nothing for gold, and +silver is their only money. Chalchihuitl is their favorite gem +and to own a turquoise stone is regarded as an omen of good +fortune to the happy possessor. + +Just how the Spaniards got the notion that the Moquis loved gold +and possessed vast stores of that precious metal is not apparent +unless it be, as Bandelier suggests, that it originated in the +myth of the El Dorado, or Gilded Man.[9] The story started at +Lake Guatanita in Bogota, and traveled north to Quivera, but the +wealth that the Spaniards sought they never found. Their journey +led them over deserts that gave them but little food and only a +meager supply of water, and ended in disaster. + +[9] The Gilded Man, by A. F. Bandelier, 1893. + + +The mesas are all rock and utterly barren, and their supplies are +all brought from a distance over difficult trails. The water is +carried in ollas by the women from springs at the foot of the +mesa; wood is packed on burros from distant forests; and corn, +melons and peaches are brought home by the men when they return +from their work in the fields. A less active and industrious +people, under similar circumstances, would soon starve to death, +but the Moquis are self-supporting and have never asked nor +received any help from Uncle Sam. + +In the early morning the public crier proclaims in stentorian +tones from the housetop the program for the day, which sends +everyone to his daily task. They are inured to labor and do not +count work as a hardship. It is only by incessant toil that they +succeed at all in earning a living with the scanty resources at +their command, and the only surprise is that they succeed so +well. There is scarcely an hour during the day or night that men +and women are not either coming or going on some errand to +provision the home. + +The men travel many miles every day going to and from their work +in the fields. If a man owns a burro he sometimes rides, but +usually prefers to walk. What the burro does not pack, the man +carries on his back. He often sings at his work, just as the +white man does in any farming community, and his song sounds +good. + +The burro is the common carrier and, because of his sterling +qualities, is a prime favorite in all of the pueblos. If he has +any faults they are all condoned except one, that of theft. If +he is caught eating in a corn field he is punished as a thief by +having one of his ears cut off; and if the offense is repeated he +loses his other ear in the same manner. + +The area of tillable land is limited and is found only in small +patches, which cause the farms to be widely scattered. The soil +is mostly sand which the wind drifts into dunes that sometimes +cover and destroy the growing crops. The peach trees are often +buried in sand or only their top branches remain visible. There +are no running streams of water and rains are infrequent. + +Corn is the principal crop and support of the Moquis. If there +is a good crop the surplus is stored away and kept to be used in +the future should a crop fail. The corn is planted in irregular +hills and cultivated with a hoe. It is dropped into deep holes +made with a stick and covered up. There is always enough +moisture in the sand to sprout the seed which, aided by an +occasional shower, causes it to grow and mature a crop. The corn +is of a hardy, native variety that needs but little water to make +it grow. The grain is small and hard like popcorn and ripens in +several colors. + +It is carried home from the field by the men, and ground into +meal by the women. The sound of the grinding is heard in the +street and is usually accompanied by a song that sounds weird but +musical. The meal is ground into different grades of fineness +and when used for bread is mixed with water to form a thin batter +which is spread by the hand upon a hot, flat stone. It is +quickly baked and makes a thin wafer that is no thicker than +paper. When done it is removed from the stone by the naked hand +and is rolled or folded into loaves which makes their prized pici +bread. It is said to be only one of fifty different methods +which the Moquis have of preparing corn for the table, or about +twice the number of styles known to any modern chef. + +The Moqui woman is favored above many of her sex who live in +foreign lands. As a child she receives much attention and toys +galore, as the parents are very fond of their children and devote +much time to their amusement. They make dolls of their Katcinas +which are given to the children to play with. A Katcina is the +emblem of a deity that is represented either in the form of a +doll carved out of wood, woven into a plaque or basket, or +painted on tiles and pottery. There are between three and four +hundred Katcina dolls each one representing a different divinity. +When a doll is given to a child it is taught what it means, thus +combining instruction with amusement. The method is a perfect +system of kindergarten teaching, which the Moquis invented and +used centuries before the idea occurred to Froebel. + +When the girl is ten years old her education properly begins and +she is systematically inducted into the mysteries of +housekeeping. At fifteen she has completed her curriculum and +can cook, bake, sew, dye, spin and weave and is, indeed, +graduated in all the accomplishments of the finished Moqui +maiden. She now does up her hair in two large coils or whorls, +one on each side of the head, which is meant to resemble a +full-blown squash blossom and signifies that the wearer is of +marriageable age and in the matrimonial market. It gives her a +striking yet not unbecoming appearance, and, if her style of +coiffure were adopted by modern fashion it would be something +unusually attractive. As represented by Donaldson in the +eleventh census report the handsome face of Pootitcie, a maiden +of the pueblo of Sichomovi, makes a pretty picture that even her +white sisters must admire. After marriage the hair is let down +and done up in two hard twists that fall over the shoulders. +This form represents a ripe, dried squash blossom and means +fruitfulness. + +Her dress is not Spanish nor yet altogether Indian, but is +simple, comfortable and becoming, which is more than can be said +of some civilized costumes. She chooses her own husband, +inherits her mother's name and property and owns the house in +which she lives. Instead of the man owning and bossing +everything, as he so dearly loves to do in our own civilization, +the property and labor of the Moqui husband and wife are equally +divided, the former owning and tending the fields and flocks and +the latter possessing and governing the house. + +The Moquis are famous for their games, dances and festivals, +which have been fully described by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes in +various reports to the Smithsonian Institution. They have many +secret orders, worship the supernatural, and believe in +witchcraft. Their great fete day is the Snake Dance, which is +held in alternate years at Walpi and Oraibi, at the former place +in the odd year and at the latter place in the even year, some +time during the month of August. It is purely a religious +ceremony, an elaborate supplication for rain, and is designed to +propitiate the water god or snake deity. + +Preliminary ceremonies are conducted in the secret Kiva several +days preceding the public dance. The Kiva is an underground +chamber that is cut out of the solid rock, and is entered by a +ladder. It has but a single opening on top on a level with the +street, which serves as door, window and chimney. The room is +only used by the men, and is, in fact, a lodge room, where the +members of the several secret orders meet and engage in their +solemn ceremonials. It is a sacred place, a holy of holies, +which none but members of a lodge may enter, and is carefully +guarded. + +The snakes used in the dance are all wild, and captured out on +the open plain. Four days prior to the dance the snake men, +dressed in scanty attire and equipped with their snake-capturing +paraphernalia, march out in squads and scour the surrounding +country in search of snakes. One day each is spent in searching +the ground towards the four points of the compass, in the order +of north, west, south and east, returning at the close of each +day with their catch to the Kiva, where the snakes are kept and +prepared for the dance. The snakes caught are of several +varieties, but much the largest number are rattlesnakes. +Respect is shown for serpents of every variety and none are ever +intentionally harmed, but the rattlesnake is considered the most +sacred and is proportionately esteemed. Its forked tongue +represents lightning, its rattle thunder and its spots +rain-clouds. The number of snakes they find is surprising, as +they catch from one to two hundred during the four days' hunt on +ground that might be carefully searched by white men for months +without finding a single reptile. + +The snake men are very expert in catching and handling serpents, +and are seldom bitten. If one is bitten it is nothing serious, +as they have a secret medicine which they use that is both +prophylactic and curative, and makes them immune to the poison so +that no harm ever results from a bite. The medicine is taken +internally and also applied locally. Efforts have been made to +discover its composition but without success. If a snake is +located which shows fight by the act of coiling it is tickled +with a snake-whip made of eagle's feathers, which soon soothes +its anger and causes it to uncoil and try to run away. It is +then quickly and safely caught up and dropped from the hand into +a bag carried for that purpose. + +Visitors who attend the dance are under no restrictions, but are +free to come and go as they please, either sightseeing or in +search of curios. If the visitor has a supply of candy, matches +and smoking-tobacco to give away he finds frequent opportunities +to bestow his gifts. The children ask for "canty," the women +want "matchi," and the men are pleased with a "smoke." + +On the morning of the dance both the men and women give their +hair an extra washing by using a mixture of water and crushed +soap-root. The white fibers of the soap-root get mixed with the +hair, which gives it a tinge of iron gray. The children also get +a bath which, because of the great scarcity of water, is not of +daily occurrence. + +To the Moquis the snake dance is a serious and solemn affair, but +to the visitors it is apt to be an occasion for fun and frolic. +Owing to a misunderstanding of its true meaning, and because of +misconduct in the past on similar occasions, notice is posted on +the Kiva asking visitors to abstain from loud laughing and +talking. In other words it is a polite request made by the rude +red man of his polished (?) white brother to please behave +himself. + +The dance begins late in the afternoon and lasts less than one +hour, but while it is in progress the action is intense. The +snakes are carried in a bag or jar from the Kiva to the Kisa, +built of cotton-wood boughs on one side of the plaza, where the +snakes are banded out to the dancers. After much marching and +countermarching about the plaza, chanting weird songs and shaking +rattles, the column of snake priests, dressed in a fantastic garb +of paint, fur and feathers, halts in front of the Kisa and breaks +up into groups of three. + +The carrier takes a snake from the Kisa puts it in his mouth, and +carries it there while dancing. Some of the more ambitious young +men will carry two or more of the smaller snakes at the same +time. The hugger throws his left arm over the shoulder of the +carrier and with his right hand fans the snake with his feather +whip. The gatherer follows after and picks up the snakes as they +fall to the ground. + +After the snakes have all been danced they are thrown into a heap +and sprinkled with sacred corn meal by the young women. The +scattering of the meal is accompanied by a shower of spittle from +the spectators, who are stationed on, convenient roofs and +ladders viewing the ceremony. Fleet runners now catch up the +snakes in handfuls and dash off in an exciting race over the mesa +and down rocky trails to the plains below where the snakes are +returned unharmed to their native haunts. + +While the men are away disposing of the reptiles the women carry +out large ollas, or jars, filled with a black liquid, which is +the snake medicine that is used in the final act of purification +by washing. When the men return to the mesa they remove their +regalias and proceed to drink of the snake medicine which acts as +an emetic. With the remainder of the concoction, and assisted by +the women, they wash their bodies free from paint. After the men +are all washed and puked they re-enter the Kiva, where the long +fast is broken by a feast and the formal ceremonies of the snake +dance are ended. + +The snake dance is annually witnessed by many visitors who gather +from different sections of the country and even foreign lands. +As there are no hotels to entertain guests every visitor must +provide his own outfit for conveyance, eating and sleeping. Even +water is scarce. Local springs barely furnish enough water to +supply the native population; and when the number of people to be +supplied is increased from one to two hundred by the visitors who +attend the dance, the water question becomes a serious problem. + +On the lower portion of the road which leads up from the spring +to the gap at Walpi on the first mesa, the trail is over drifted +sand which makes difficult walking. To remedy this defect in the +trail, a path has been made of flat stones laid in the sand, +which shows that the Moquis are quick to recognize and utilize an +advantage that contributes to their convenience and comfort. + +The Santa Fe Pacific is the nearest railroad, which runs about +one hundred miles south of the Moqui villages. The tourist can +secure transportation at reasonable rates of local liverymen +either from Holbrook, Winslow, Canon Diablo or Flagstaff. The +trip makes an enjoyable outing that is full of interest and +instruction from start to finish. + +Some years ago the government, through its agents, began to +civilize and Christianize these Indians and established a school +at Keam's Canon, nine miles east of the first mesa, for that +purpose. When the school was opened the requisition for a +specified number of children from each pueblo was not filled +until secured by force. As free citizens of the United States, +being such by the treaty made with Mexico in 1848 and, indeed, +already so under a system of self-government superior to our own +and established long before Columbus discovered America, they +naturally resented any interference in their affairs but, being +in the minority and overpowered, had to submit. + +When the object of the school was explained to them, they +consented to receive secular instructions but objected to any +religious teaching. They asked to have schools opened in the +pueblos on the plan of our public schools where the children +could attend during the day and return home at night, and their +home life be not broken up, but their prayer was denied. + +The reservation school was opened for the purpose of instructing +the Moqui children in civilization, but the results obtained have +not been entirely satisfactory. The methods employed for +enforcing discipline have been unnecessarily severe and have +given dissatisfaction. As recently as the year 1903 the children +of this inoffensive and harmless people were forcibly taken from +their homes and put into the schools. The time selected for +doing the dastardly deed was during the night in midwinter when +the weather was cold and the ground covered with snow. Under the +orders of the superintendent the reservation police made the raid +without warning or warrant of any kind. While the people slept, +the police entered their houses, dragged the little children from +their comfortable beds and drove them naked out into the snow and +cold, where they were rounded up and herded like cattle. + +The indignity and outrage of this and other similar acts have +embittered the Moquis until they have lost what little respect +they ever had for Christianity and civilization. The policy of +the government is to make them do whatever they do not want to +do, to break up the family and scatter its members. The +treatment has created two factions among the Moquis known as the +"hostiles" who are only hostile in opposing oppression and any +change in their religious faith and customs; and the "friendlies" +who are willing to obey the boss placed over them and comply with +his demands. + +Religion is the dearest treasure of mankind, and when assailed +always finds ready defenders. Possessed by this innate feeling +of right and rankling with the injustice of the past, is it +surprising that they should spurn any proffered help? They +remember what they have suffered in the past and do not care to +repeat the experiment. To this day the Moquis hold the mission +epoch in contempt and nothing could induce them to accept +voluntarily any proposition that savored ought of the old regime. +Every vestige of that period has been obliterated from the +pueblos that nothing tangible should remain to remind them of +their undeserved humiliation. + +They are a highly religious people worshiping after their own +creed, and are sincere and conscientious in their devotions. +Almost everything they do has some religious significance and +every day its religious observance. Their religion satisfies +them and harms no one, then why not leave them in peace? We +believe that we can benefit them, which is doubtless true, but +might they not also teach us some useful lessons? It would +sometimes be more to our credit if we were less anxious to teach +others, and more willing to learn ourselves. + +Next to their religion they love their homes most. The rocks +upon which they live, are they not dear from associations? Is it +not the land of their birth and the home of their fathers during +many generations? They cling with stubborn tenacity to their +barren mesas and nothing thus far has succeeded in driving them +away; neither war, pestilence nor famine. Repeated attempts have +been made to induce them to leave, but without success. + +Tom Polaki, the principal man of Tewa, was the first man to +respond to the call to come down. He left the mesa several years +ago, and went to the plain below to live. Having captured the +bell wether it was presumed that the balance of the flock would +soon follow, but the contrary proved to be true. At the foot of +the bluff near a spring on the road that leads up to the gap Tom +built a modern house and tried to imitate the white man. But the +change did not suit him, and after living in his modern house for +a number of years, he finally sold it and returned to his old +home on the mesa. A few others at different times have tried the +same experiment with no better success. The man would stay for a +short time in the house provided for him, but never made it a +permanent home for his family. + +That the Moquis are changing is best illustrated by reference to +one of their marriage customs. It is the custom when a youth +contemplates matrimony to make a marriage blanket. He grows the +cotton, spins the yarn and weaves the cloth, which requires a +year or more of time to finish. Since the children have gone to +school it is not deemed necessary for a young man to go to so +much trouble and expense as to make a marriage blanket, but +instead, he borrows one from a friend in the village, and after +the ceremony is over returns it to the owner. Even now it is not +easy to find such a blanket, and very soon they will be priceless +as no more such garments will be made. + +The only reasonable explanation why any people should select a +location like that of the Moquis is on the hypothesis of choice. +There is much of the animal in human nature that is influenced by +instinct, and man, like the brute, often unconsciously selects +what is most congenial to his nature. Thus instinct teaches the +eagle to nest on the highest crag and the mountain sheep to +browse in pastures which only the hardiest hunter dare approach. +For no better reason, apparently, do the Moquis occupy their +barren mesas; they simply prefer to live there above any other +place. + +Safety has been urged as a motive for their conduct but it alone +is not a sufficient reason for solving the problem. Their +position is safe enough from attack but in the event of a siege +their safety would only be temporary. With their scant water +supply at a distance and unprotected they could not hold out long +in a siege, but would soon be compelled either to fight, fly or +famish. + +Again, if safety was their only reason for staying, they could +have left long ago and had nothing to fear, as they have been for +many years at peace with their ancient enemy the predatory +Navajo. But rather than go they have chosen to remain in their +old home where they have always lived, and will continue to live +so long as they are left free to choose. + +The modern iconoclast in his unreasonable devotion to realism +has, perhaps, stripped them of much old time romance, but even +with all of that gone, enough of fact remains to make them a +remarkable people. Instead of seeking to change them this last +bit of harmless aboriginal life should be spared and preserved, +if possible, in all of its native purity and simplicity. + + + +CHAPTER XIV +A FINE CLIMATE + +The climate of Arizona as described in the local vernacular is +"sure fine." The combination of elements which make the climate +is unusual and cannot be duplicated elsewhere upon the American +continent. The air is remarkably pure and dry. Siccity, indeed, +is its distinguishing feature. That the climate is due to +geographical and meteorological conditions cannot be doubted, but +the effects are unexplainable by any ordinary rules. + +The region involved not only embraces Arizona, but also includes +portions of California and Mexico and is commonly known as the +Colorado Desert. Yuma, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado +rivers, is approximately its geographical center. The general +aspect of the country is low and flat and in the Salton sink the +dry land dips several hundred feet below the level of the ocean. +Only by extreme siccity is such land possible when more water +rises in evaporation than falls by precipitation. There are but +few such places in the world, the deepest one being the Dead Sea, +which is about thirteen hundred feet lower than the ocean. + +The Colorado Basin is the dry bed of an ancient sea whose shore +line is yet visible in many places upon the sides of the +mountains which surround it. Its floor is composed of clay with +deposits of sand and salt. Strong winds sometimes sweep over it +that shift and pile up the sand in great dunes. The entire +region is utterly bare and desolate, yet by the use of water +diverted from the Colorado river it is being reclaimed to +agriculture. + +The rainfall is very scant the average annual precipitation at +Yuma being less than three inches. The climate is not dry from +any lack of surface water, as it has the Gila and Colorado +rivers, the Gulf of California and the broad Pacific Ocean to +draw from. But the singular fact remains that the country is +extremely dry and that it does not rain as in other lands. + +Neither is the rainfall deficient from any lack of evaporation. +Upon the contrary the evaporation is excessive and according to +the estimate of Major Powell amounts fully to one hundred inches +of water per annum. If the vapors arising from this enormous +evaporation should all be condensed into clouds and converted +into rain it would create a rainy season that would last +throughout the year. + +The humidity caused by an abundant rainfall in any low, hot +country is usually enough to unfit it for human habitation. The +combined effect of heat and moisture upon a fertile soil causes +an excess of both growing and decaying vegetation that fills the +atmosphere with noxious vapors and disease producing germs. The +sultry air is so oppressive that it is more than physical +endurance can bear. The particles of vapor which float in the +atmosphere absorb and hold the heat until it becomes like a +steaming hot blanket that is death to unacclimated life. All of +this is changed where siccity prevails. The rapid evaporation +quickly dispels the vapors and the dry heat desiccates the +disease creating germs and makes them innocuous. + +The effect of heat upon the body is measured by the difference in +the actual and sensible temperatures, as recorded by the dry and +wet bulb thermometers. When both stand nearly together as they +are apt to do in a humid atmosphere, the heat becomes +insufferable. In the dry climate of Arizona such a condition +cannot occur. The difference in the two instruments is always +great, often as much as forty degrees. For this reason, a +temperature of 118 degrees F. at Yuma is less oppressive than 98 +degrees F. is in New York. A low relative humidity gives comfort +and freedom from sunstroke even when the thermometer registers +the shade temperature in three figures. + +A dry, warm climate is a stimulant to the cutaneous function. +The skin is an important excreting organ that is furnished with a +large number of sweat glands which are for the dual purpose of +furnishing moisture for cooling the body by evaporation and the +elimination of worn out and waste material from the organism. As +an organ it is not easily injured by over work, but readily lends +its function in an emergency in any effort to relieve other tired +or diseased organs of the body. By vicarious action the skin is +capable of performing much extra labor without injury to itself +and can be harnessed temporarily for the relief of some vital +part which has become crippled until its function can be +restored. + +A diseased kidney depends particularly upon the skin for succor +more than any other organ. When the kidneys from any cause fail +to act the skin comes to their rescue and throws off impurities +which nature intended should go by the renal route. For this +reason diabetes and albuminuria, the most stubborn of all kidney +diseases, are usually benefited by a dry, warm climate. The +benefit derived is due to an increase of the insensible +transpiration rather than to profuse perspiration. The air of +Arizona is so dry and evaporation so rapid that an increase in +perspiration is scarcely noticeable except when it is confined by +impervious clothing. The disagreeable feeling of wet clothes +which accompanies profuse perspiration in a damp climate is +changed to an agreeable sensation of coolness in a dry one. + +The atmosphere of Arizona is not only dry but also very +electrical, so much so, indeed, that at times it becomes almost +painful. Whenever the experiment is tried, sparks can be +produced by friction or the handling of metal, hair or wool. It +affects animals as well as man, and literally causes "the hair to +stand on end." The writer has on various occasions seen a string +of horses standing close together at a watering-trough, drinking, +so full of electricity that their manes and tails were spread out +and floated in the air, and the long hairs drawn by magnetic +attraction from one animal to the other all down the line in a +spontaneous effort to complete a circuit. There are times when +the free electricity in the air is so abundant that every object +becomes charged with the fluid, and it cannot escape fast enough +or find "a way out" by any adequate conductor. The effects of +such an excess of electricity is decidedly unpleasant on the +nerves, and causes annoying irritability and nervousness. + +The hot sun sometimes blisters the skin and burns the complexion +to a rich, nut-brown color, but the air always feels soft and +balmy, and usually blows only in gentle zephyrs. The air has a +pungent fragrance which is peculiar to the desert, that is the +mingled product of a variety of resinous plants. The weather is +uniformly pleasant, and the elements are rarely violently +disturbed. + +In the older settled sections of our country, whenever there is +any sudden or extreme change in the weather of either heat or +cold, wet or dry, it is always followed by an increase of +sickness and death. The aged and invalid, who are sensitive and +weak, suffer mostly, as they feel every change in the weather. +There is, perhaps, no place on earth that can boast of a perfect +climate, but the country that can show the fewest and mildest +extremes approaches nearest to the ideal. The southwest is +exceptionally favored in its climatic conditions, and is +beneficial to the majority of chronic invalids. + +Atmospheric pressure is greatest near the earth's surface, and +exerts a controlling influence over the vital functions. +Atmospheric pressure is to the body what the governor is to +the steam engine, or the pendulum to the clock. It regulates +vital action, insures safety and lessens the wear and tear of +machinery. Under its soothing influence the number of +respirations per minute are diminished, the heart beats decreased +in frequency, and the tired brain and nerves rested. It is often +better than medicine, and will sometimes give relief when all +other means fail. + +Arizona has a diversity of altitudes, and therefore furnishes a +variety of climates. The elevations range from about sea level +at Yuma to nearly thirteen thousand feet upon the San Francisco +mountains. By making suitable changes in altitude to fit the +season it is possible to enjoy perpetual spring. + +Because Arizona is far south geographically it is only natural to +suppose that it is all very hot, which is a mistake. In the low +valleys of southern Arizona the summers are hot, but it is a dry +heat which is not oppressive, and the winters are delightfully +pleasant. In northern Arizona the winters are cold and the +summers cool. There is no finer summer climate in the world than +is found on the high plateaus and pine-topped mountains of +northern Arizona. Prescott, Williams and Flagstaff have a +charming summer climate, while at Yuma, Phoenix and Tucson the +winter weather is simply perfect. + +A mountain residence is not desirable for thin, nervous people or +such as are afflicted with any organic disease. A high altitude +is too stimulating for this class of patients and tends to +increase nervousness and aggravates organic disease. Such +persons should seek a coast climate and a low altitude, which is +sedative, rather than risk the high and dry interior. Any coast +climate is better than the mountains for nervous people, but the +Pacific Coast is preferable to any other because of its freedom +from electrical storms and every other form of disagreeable +meteorological disturbance that tries the nerves. The +nervousness that is produced by a high altitude does not, as a +rule, develop suddenly, but grows gradually upon the patient. +Those of a sensitive nature feel it most and women more than men. +After making a change from a low to a high altitude sleep may be +sound for a time, but it soon becomes fitful and unrefreshing. + +It has been discovered that altitude increases the amount of +hemoglobulin and thus enriches the blood and is particularly +beneficial to pale, thin people. It also sharpens the appetite +and promotes digestion and assimilation. + +Persons suffering from rheumatism, neuralgia, advanced pulmonary +consumption, organic heart disease and all disorders of the brain +and nerves should avoid a high altitude. Patients that are +afflicted with any of the above-mentioned diseases are more +comfortable in a low altitude and should choose between the coast +of California and the low, dry lands of the lower Gila and +Colorado rivers, according to the season of the year and the +quality of climate desired. + +The diseases which are especially benefited by the climate of +Arizona are consumption, bronchitis, catarrh and hay fever. +Anyone going in search of health who has improved by the change +should remain where the improvement took place lest by returning +home and being again subjected to the former climatic conditions +which caused the disease the improvement be lost and the old +disease re-established with increased severity. + +Most sick people who are in need of a change live in a humid +atmosphere where the winters are extremely cold and the summers +uncomfortably hot, and to be benefited by a change must seek a +climate in which the opposite conditions prevail. The climate of +the southwest furnishes just what such invalids require. The +sick who need cold or damp weather, if there be any such, can be +accommodated almost anywhere, but those who want a warm, dry +climate must go where it can be found. Not every invalid who +goes in search of health finds a cure, as many who start on such +a journey are already past help when they leave home. When a +case is hopeless the patient should not undertake such a trip, +but remain quietly at home and die in peace among friends. + +As already intimated the climate of the Colorado basin is ideal +in winter, but becomes very hot in summer. Its low altitude, +rainless days, cloudless skies and balmy air form a combination +that is unsurpassed and is enjoyed by all either sick or well. +The heat of summer does not create sickness, but becomes +monotonous and tiresome from its steady and long continuance. +Many residents of the Territory who tire of the heat and can +afford the trip take a vacation during the summer months and +either go north to the Grand Canon and the mountains or to the +Pacific Coast. Every summer witnesses a hegira of sun baked +people fleeing from the hot desert to the mountains or ocean +shore in search of coolness and comfort. + +Life in the tropics, perhaps, inclines to indolence and languor, +particularly if the atmosphere is humid, but in a dry climate +like that of Arizona the heat, although sometimes great, is never +oppressive or debilitating. It has its lazy people like any +other country and for the same reason that there are always some +who were born tired and never outgrow the tired feeling, but +Arizona climate is more bracing than enervating. + +The adobe house of the Mexican is a peculiar institution of the +southwest. It may be interesting on account of its past history, +but it is certainly not pretty. It is nothing more than a box +of dried mud with its roof, walls and floor all made of dirt. It +is never free from a disagreeable earthy smell which, if mingled +with the added odors of stale smoke and filth, as is often the +case, makes the air simply vile. The house can never be kept +tidy because of the dirt which falls from the adobe, unless the +walls and ceilings are plastered and whitewashed, which is +sometimes done in the better class of houses. If the house is +well built it is comfortable enough in pleasant weather, but as +often as it rains the dirt roof springs a leak and splashes water +and mud over everything. If by chance the house stands on low +ground and is surrounded by water, as sometimes happens, after a +heavy rain the walls become soaked and dissolved into mud when +the house collapses. The adobe house may have been suited to the +wants of a primitive people, but in the present age of +improvement, it is scarcely worth saving except it be as a relic +of a vanishing race. + +In order to escape in a measure the discomforts of the midday +heat the natives either seek the shade in the open air where the +breeze blows, or, what is more common, close up tight the adobe +house in the morning and remain indoors until the intense heat +from the scorching sun penetrates the thick walls, which causes +the inmates to move out. In the cool of the evening they visit +and transact business and when the hour comes for retiring go to +bed on cots made up out of doors where they sleep until morning, +while the house is left open to cool off during the night. This +process is repeated every day during the hot summer months and is +endured without complaint. + +The natives, also, take advantage of the dry air to operate a +novel method of refrigeration. The cloth covered army canteen +soaked in water and the handy water jug of the eastern harvest +field wrapped in a wet blanket are familiar examples of an +ineffectual attempt at refrigeration by evaporation. But natural +refrigeration find its best illustration in the arid regions of +the southwest by the use of an olla, which is a vessel made of +porous pottery, a stout canvas bag or a closely woven Indian +basket. A suitable vessel is selected, filled with water and +suspended somewhere in midair in the shade. If it is hung in a +current of air it is all the better, as any movement of the +atmosphere facilitates evaporation. A slow seepage of water +filters through the open pores of the vessel which immediately +evaporates in the dry air and lowers the temperature. The water +in the olla soon becomes cold and if properly protected will +remain cool during the entire day. + +The dry air also acts as a valuable preservative. During the +winter, when the weather is cool but not freezing, if fresh meat +is hung out in the open air, it will keep sweet a long time. A +dry crust soon forms upon its surface which hermetically seals +the meat from the air and keeps it perfectly sweet. In the +summer it is necessary to dry the meat more quickly to keep it +from spoiling. It is then made into "jerky" by cutting it into +long, thin strips and hanging them up in the sun to dry. After +it is thoroughly dried, it is tied up in bags and used as needed, +either by eating it dry from the pocket when out on a tramp, or, +if in camp, serving it in a hot stew. + +Even the carcass of a dead animal that is left exposed upon the +ground to decompose does not moulder away by the usual process of +decay, but what is left of the body after the hungry buzzards and +coyotes have finished their feast, dries up into a mummy that +lasts for years. + +Climate everywhere unquestionably influences life in its +evolution, but it is not always easy to determine all of its +effects in detail. In Arizona, which is but a comparatively +small corner of our country, live several races of men that are +as different from each other as nature could make them, yet all +live in the same climate. + +The Pueblo Indian is in a manner civilized, peaceable and +industrious. He is brave in self-defense, but never seeks war +nor bloodshed. Quite different is his near neighbor, the +bloodthirsty Apache, who seems to delight only in robbing and +killing people. Cunning and revenge are pronounced traits of his +character and the Government has found him difficult to conquer +or control. The Mexican leads a shiftless, thriftless life and +seems satisfied merely to exist. He has, unfortunately, +inherited more of the baser than the better qualities of his +ancestors, and, to all appearance, is destined to further +degenerate. The American is the last comer and has already +pushed civilization and commerce into the remotest corners and, +as usual, dominates the land. + +As diverse as are these several races in many respects, each one +of them furnishes splendid specimens of physical manhood. The +Indian has always been noted for his fine physique, and is large +bodied, well muscled and full chested. One advantage which the +southwest has over other countries is that the climate is mild +and favorable to an outdoor life, which is conducive to health +and physical development. + +No single race of men flourish equally well everywhere, but each +one is affected by its own surroundings; and, what is true of a +race, is also true of an individual. The pioneer in any country +is always an interesting character, but he differs in +peculiarities according to his environment of mountain, plain or +forest. Occupation also exerts an influence and in time develops +distinct types like the trapper, miner, soldier and cowboy, that +only the graphic pencil of a Remington can accurately portray. +The eccentricities of character which are sometimes met in men +who dwell on the frontier are not always due alone to +disposition, but are largely the product of the wild life which +they live, that inclines them to be restless, reckless and even +desperate. + +There is no better field for observing and studying the effects +of environment upon human life than is furnished by the arid +region of the southwest. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Etext of Arizona Sketches, by Joseph A. Munk + diff --git a/old/azsks10.zip b/old/azsks10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..15354b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/azsks10.zip |