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diff --git a/old/68672-0.txt b/old/68672-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 08ce501..0000000 --- a/old/68672-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9940 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The lives of celebrated travellers, -Vol. I. (of 3), by James Augustus St. John - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The lives of celebrated travellers, Vol. I. (of 3) - -Author: James Augustus St. John - -Release Date: August 2, 2022 [eBook #68672] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Turgut Dincer and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED -TRAVELLERS, VOL. I. (OF 3) *** - -The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, Vol. I. - - - - - -FAMILY LIBRARY. - - -The publishers of the Family Library, anxious to obtain and to deserve -the favourable opinion of the public, with pleasure embrace the -present opportunity to express their warm and sincere thanks for the -liberal patronage which has been bestowed upon their undertaking, and -their determination to do all that lies in their power to merit its -continuance. For some time previous to the commencement of the Family -Library, they had entertained thoughts and wishes of reducing the -quantity of merely fictitious writings, which the reading public had made -it their interest to issue from their press; and they were conscious -that this could only be done by substituting for them works that should -be equally entertaining and more instructive. The difficulty was to -find an adequate supply of books possessing these requisites. At this -time the attention of English philanthropists and authors was strongly -turned to the general dissemination of useful knowledge by means of -popular abridgments, convenient in form, afforded at low prices, and as -much as possible simplified in style, so as to be accessible as well to -the means as to the comprehension of “the people,” in contradistinction -to the educated and the wealthy. The result has been the production of -numerous collections, embracing well written works treating of almost -every department of art and science, and, by their simplicity, clearness, -and entire freedom from technicality, exactly calculated to attract and -compensate the attention of the general reader. From these collections, -with additions and improvements, and such alterations as were necessary -to adapt the work to the taste and wants of the American public, HARPER’S -FAMILY LIBRARY has been composed; and it is with pride and pleasure -that the publishers acknowledge the distinguished favour with which it -has been received. The approbation and support that have already been -bestowed upon it are greater than have ever been conferred upon any work -of a similar character published in the United States; and the sale of -every succeeding volume still demonstrates its continually increasing -popularity. In several instances gentlemen of wealth and of excellent -judgment have been so much pleased with the character of the Library, -that they have purchased numbers of complete sets as appropriate and -valuable gifts to the families of their less opulent relatives; and -others have unsolicited, been active in their endeavours to extend its -circulation among their friends and acquaintances. With these strong -inducements to persevere, the publishers are resolved to prosecute -their undertaking with additional zeal, energy, and circumspection. -What has been done they desire their patrons to consider rather in the -light of an experiment, than a specimen of what they hope and intend to -accomplish: they freely and gratefully acknowledge that the circulation -and popularity of the Family Library are now such as to justify them -in disregarding expense, and to demand from them every care and every -exertion. It shall be their study to make such arrangements as shall -warrant them in assuring the friends and patrons of the Library that the -forthcoming volumes, instead of decreasing in interest and value, will be -found still more deserving of the support and approbation of the public -than those which have preceded them. - -In order to render it thus meritorious, the proprietors intend -incorporating in it hereafter, selections of the best productions from -the various other Libraries and Miscellanies now publishing in Europe. -Several well-known authors have been engaged to prepare for it also works -of an American character; and _the Family Library, when completed, will -include a volume on every useful and interesting subject_ not embraced in -the other “Libraries” now preparing by the same publishers. 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The number of volumes will be limited, and -they will be bound and numbered in such a manner as to render it not -essentially necessary to obtain them to complete a set of the Family -Library. - -The following opinions, selected from highly respectable Journals, will -enable those who are unacquainted with the Family Library to form an -estimate of its merits. Numerous other notices, equally favourable, and -from sources equally respectable, might be presented if deemed necessary. - -“The Family Library.—A very excellent, and always entertaining -Miscellany.”—_Edinburgh Review, No. 103._ - -“The Family Library presents, in a compendious and convenient form, -well-written histories of popular men, kingdoms, sciences, &c. arranged -and edited by able writers, and drawn entirely from the most correct and -accredited authorities. It is, as it professes to be, a Family Library, -from which, at little expense, a household may prepare themselves for -a consideration of those elementary subjects of education and society, -without a due acquaintance with which neither man nor woman has claim to -be well bred, or to take their proper place among those with whom they -abide.”—_Charleston Gazette._ - -“We have repeatedly borne testimony to the utility of this work. It is -one of the best that has ever been issued from the American press, and -should be in the library of _every_ family desirous of treasuring up -useful knowledge.”—_Boston Statesman._ - -“The Family Library should be in the hands of every person. Thus far it -has treated of subjects interesting to all, condensed in a perspicuous -and agreeable style.... We have so repeatedly spoken of the merits of the -design of this work, and of the able manner in which it is edited, that -on this occasion we will only repeat our conviction, that it is worthy -a place in every library in the country, and will prove one of the most -useful as it is one of the most interesting publications which has ever -issued from the American press.”—_N. Y. Courier & Enquirer._ - -“The Family Library is, what its name implies, a collection of various -original works of the best kind, containing reading, useful and -interesting to the family circle. It is neatly printed, and should be in -every family that can afford it—the price being moderate.”—_New-England -Palladium._ - -“The Family Library is, in all respects, a valuable work.”—_Pennsylvania -Inquirer._ - -“We are pleased to see that the publishers have obtained sufficient -encouragement to continue their valuable Family Library.”—_Baltimore -Republican._ - -“We recommend the whole set of the Family Library as one of the cheapest -means of affording pleasing instruction, and imparting a proper pride in -books, with which we are acquainted.”—_Philadelphia U. S. Gazette._ - -“It will prove instructing and amusing to all classes. We are pleased to -learn that the works comprising this Library have become, as they ought -to be, quite popular among the heads of Families.”—_N. Y. Gazette._ - -“It is the duty of every person having a family to put this excellent -Library into the hands of his children.”—_N. Y. Mercantile Advertiser._ - -“We have so often recommended this enterprising and useful publication -(the Family Library), that we can here only add, that each successive -number appears to confirm its merited popularity.”—_N. Y. American._ - -“It is so emphatically what it purports to be, that we are anxious to see -it in every family.—It is alike interesting and useful to all classes of -readers.”—_Albany Evening Journal._ - -“The little volumes of this series truly comport with their title, and -are in themselves a Family Library.”—_N. Y. Commercial Advertiser._ - -“We have met with no work more interesting and deservedly popular than -this valuable Family Library.”—_Monthly Repository._ - -“The plan of the Family Library must be acceptable to the American -reading community.”—_N. Y. Journal of Commerce._ - -“To all portions of the community the entire series may be warmly -recommended.”—_American Traveller._ - -“It is a delightful publication.”—_Truth Teller._ - - - - -PROSPECTUS OF THE LIBRARY OF SELECT NOVELS. - - -Fictitious composition is now admitted to form an extensive and important -portion of literature. Well-wrought novels take their rank by the side -of real narratives, and are appealed to as evidence in all questions -concerning man. In them the customs of countries, the transitions and -shades of character, and even the very peculiarities of costume and -dialect, are curiously preserved; and the imperishable spirit that -surrounds and keeps them for the use of successive generations renders -the rarities for ever fresh and green. In them human life is laid -down as on a map. The strong and vivid exhibitions of passion and of -character which they furnish, acquire and maintain the strongest hold -upon the curiosity, and, it may be added, the affections of every class -of readers; for not only is entertainment in all the various moods -of tragedy and comedy provided in their pages, but he who reads them -attentively may often obtain, without the bitterness and danger of -experience, that knowledge of his fellow-creatures which but for such aid -could, in the majority of cases, be only acquired at a period of life too -late to turn it to account. - -This “Library of Select Novels” will embrace none but such as have -received the impress of general approbation, or have been written by -authors of established character; and the publishers hope to receive such -encouragement from the public patronage as will enable them in the course -of time to produce a series of works of uniform appearance, and including -most of the really valuable novels and romances that have been or shall -be issued from the modern English and American press. - -There is scarcely any question connected with the interests of literature -which has been more thoroughly discussed and investigated than that of -the utility or evil of novel reading. In its favour much may be and has -been said, and it must be admitted that the reasonings of those who -believe novels to be injurious, or at least useless, are not without -force and plausibility. Yet, if the arguments against novels are closely -examined, it will be found that they are more applicable in general -to excessive indulgence in the pleasures afforded by the perusal of -fictitious adventures than to the works themselves; and that the evils -which can be justly ascribed to them arise almost exclusively, not from -any peculiar noxious qualities that can be fairly attributed to novels as -a species, but from those individual works which in their class must be -pronounced to be indifferent. - -But even were it otherwise—were novels of every kind, the good as well -as the bad, the striking and animated not less than the puerile, indeed -liable to the charge of enfeebling or perverting the mind; and were -there no qualities in any which might render them instructive as well -as amusing—the universal acceptation which they have ever received, -and still continue to receive, from all ages and classes of men, would -prove an irresistible incentive to their production. The remonstrances -of moralists and the reasonings of philosophy have ever been, and will -still be found, unavailing against the desire to partake of an enjoyment -so attractive. Men will read novels; and therefore the utmost that wisdom -and philanthropy can do is to cater prudently for the public appetite, -and, as it is hopeless to attempt the exclusion of fictitious writings -from the shelves of the library, to see that they are encumbered with -the least possible number of such as have no other merit than that of -novelty. - -“The works of our elder dramatists, _as hitherto edited_, are wholly -unfit to be placed in the hands of young persons, or of females of -any age, or even to be thought of for a moment as furniture for the -drawing-room table, and the parlour-window, or to form the solace of a -family circle at the fireside. What lady will ever confess that she has -read and understood Massinger, or Ford, or even Beaumont and Fletcher? -There is hardly a single piece in any of those authors which does not -contain more abominable passages than the very worst of modern panders -would ever dream of hazarding in print—and there are whole plays in Ford, -and in Beaumont and Fletcher, the very essence and substance of which -is, from beginning to end, one mass of pollution. The works, therefore, -of these immortal men have hitherto been library, not drawing-room -books;—and we have not a doubt, that, down to this moment, they have -been carefully excluded, _in toto_, from the vast majority of those -English houses in which their divine poetry, if stripped of its deforming -accompaniments, would have been ministering the most effectually to the -instruction and delight of our countrymen, and, above all, of our fair -countrywomen. - -“We welcome, therefore, the appearance of the _Dramatic Series_ of the -_Family Library_ with no ordinary feelings of satisfaction. We are now -sure that, ere many months elapse, the productions of those distinguished -bards—all of them that is worthy of their genius, their taste, and the -acceptation of a moral and refined people—will be placed within reach of -every circle from which their very names have hitherto been sufficient -to exclude them, in a shape such as must command confidence, and richly -reward it. The text will be presented pure and correct, wherever it -is fit to be presented at all—every word and passage offensive to the -modest ear will be omitted; and means adopted, through the notes, of -preserving the sense and story entire, in spite of these necessary -erasures. If this were all, it would be a great deal—but the editors -undertake much more. They will furnish, in their preliminary notices, and -in their notes, clear accounts of the origin, structure, and object of -every piece, and the substance of all that sound criticism has brought -to their illustration, divested, however, of the personal squabbles -and controversies which so heavily and offensively load the bottoms -of the pages in the best existing editions of our dramatic worthies. -Lives of the authors will be given; and if they be all drawn up with -the skill and elegance which mark the Life of Massinger, in the first -volume, these alone will form a standard addition to our biographical -literature.”—_Literary Gazette._ - -“The early British Drama forms so important a portion of our literature, -that a ‘_Family Library_’ would be incomplete without it. A formidable -obstacle to the publication of our early plays, however, consists in the -occasional impurity of their dialogue. The editors of the Family Library -have, therefore, judiciously determined on publishing a selection of -old plays, omitting all such passages as are inconsistent with modern -delicacy. The task of separation requires great skill and discretion, but -these qualities we have no apprehension of not finding, in the fullest -degree requisite, in the editors, who, by this purifying process, will -perform a service both to the public and to the authors, whom they will -thereby draw forth from unmerited obscurity.”—_Asiatic Journal._ - -“The first number of the ‘Dramatic Series’ of this work commences with -the Plays of MASSINGER; and the lovers of poetry and the drama may now, -for the first time, possess the works of all the distinguished writers of -the renowned Elizabethan age, at a cost which most pockets can bear; in -a form and style, too, which would recommend them to the most tasteful -book collector. A portrait of Massinger adorns the first volume; and -what little is known of the dramatist is given in a short account of his -life.”—_Examiner._ - - - - -FAMILY CLASSICAL LIBRARY. - - -The Publishers have much pleasure in recording the following testimonials -in recommendation of the Family Classical Library. - -“Mr. Valpy has projected a _Family Classical Library_. The idea is -excellent, and the work cannot fail to be acceptable to youth of both -sexes, as well as to a large portion of the reading community, who have -not had the benefit of a learned education.”—_Gentleman’s Magazine, Dec. -1829._ - -“We have here the commencement of another undertaking for the more -general distribution of knowledge, and one which, if as well conducted -as we may expect, bids fair to occupy an enlarged station in our -immediate literature. The volume before us is a specimen well calculated -to recommend what are to follow. Leland’s Demosthenes is an excellent -work.”—_Lit. Gazette._ - -“This work will be received with great gratification by every man who -knows the value of classical knowledge. All that we call purity of -taste, vigour of style, and force of thought, has either been taught to -the modern world by the study of the classics, or has been guided and -restrained by those illustrious models. To extend the knowledge of such -works is to do a public service.”—_Court Journal._ - -“The _Family Classical Library_ is another of those cheap, useful, -and elegant works, which we lately spoke of as forming an era in our -publishing history.”—_Spectator._ - -“The present era seems destined to be honourably distinguished in -literary history by the high character of the works to which it is -successively giving birth. Proudly independent of the fleeting taste of -the day, they boast substantial worth which can never be disregarded; -they put forth a claim to permanent estimation. The _Family Classical -Library_ is a noble undertaking, which the name of the editor assures -us will be executed in a style worthy of the great originals.”—_Morning -Post._ - -“This is a very promising speculation; and as the taste of the day runs -just now very strongly in favour of such Miscellanies, we doubt not it -will meet with proportionate success. It needs no adventitious aid, -however influential; it has quite sufficient merit to enable it to stand -on its own foundation, and will doubtless assume a lofty grade in public -favour.”—_Sun._ - -“This work, published at a low price, is beautifully got up. Though -to profess to be content with translations of the Classics has been -denounced as ‘the thin disguise of indolence,’ there are thousands who -have no leisure for studying the dead languages, who would yet like to -know what was thought and said by the sages and poets of antiquity. To -them this work will be a treasure.”—_Sunday Times._ - -“This design, which is to communicate a knowledge of the most esteemed -authors of Greece and Rome, by the most approved translations, to those -from whom their treasures, without such assistance, would be hidden, -must surely be approved by every friend of literature, by every lover of -mankind. We shall only say of the first volume, that as the execution -well accords with the design, it must command general approbation.”—_The -Observer._ - -“We see no reason why this work should not find its way into the boudoir -of the lady, as well as into the library of the learned. It is cheap, -portable, and altogether a work which may safely be placed in the hands -of persons of both sexes.”—_Weekly Free Press._ - - - - - _Harper’s Stereotype Edition._ - - THE - LIVES - OF - CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. - - BY - JAMES AUGUSTUS ST. JOHN. - - Wand’ring from clime to clime, observant stray’d, - Their manners noted and their states survey’d. - POPE’S HOMER. - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - - VOL. I. - - NEW-YORK: - PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. & J. HARPER, - NO. 82 CLIFF-STREET, - AND SOLD BY THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLERS THROUGHOUT - THE UNITED STATES. - 1832. - - - - -ADVERTISEMENT. - - -Dr. Southey, speaking of the works of travellers, very justly remarks, -that “of such books we cannot have too many!” and adds, with equal truth, -that “because they contribute to the instruction of the learned, their -reputation suffers no diminution by the course of time, but that age -rather enhances their value.” Every man, indeed, whose comprehensive -mind enables him to sympathize with human nature under all its various -aspects, and to detect—through the endless disguises superinduced by -strange religions, policies, manners, or climate—passions, weaknesses, -and virtues akin to his own, must peruse the relations of veracious -travellers with peculiar satisfaction and delight. But there is another -point of view in which the labours of this class of writers may be -contemplated with advantage. Having made use of them as a species of -telescope for bringing remote scenes near our intellectual eye, it may, -perhaps, be of considerable utility to observe the effect of so many -dissimilar and unusual objects, as necessarily present themselves to -travellers, upon the mind, character, and happiness of the individuals -who beheld them. This, in fact, is the business of the biographer; and it -is what I have endeavoured to perform, to the best of my abilities, in -the following “Lives.” - -By accompanying the adventurer through his distant enterprises, often -far more bold and useful than any undertaken by king or conqueror, we -insensibly acquire, unless repelled by some base or immoral quality, an -affection, as it were, for his person, and learn to regard his toils and -dangers amid “antres vast and deserts idle,” as something which concerns -us nearly. And when the series of his wanderings in foreign realms are -at an end, our curiosity, unwilling to forsake an agreeable track, still -pursues him in his return to his home, longs to contemplate him when -placed once more in the ordinary ranks of society, and would fain be -informed of the remainder of his tale. By some such mental process as -this I was led to inquire into the lives of celebrated travellers; and -though, in many instances, I have been very far from obtaining all the -information I desired, my researches, I trust, will neither be considered -discreditable to myself nor useless to the public. - -In arranging the materials of my work, I have adopted the order of time -for many reasons; but chiefly because, by this means, though pursuing -the adventures of individuals, a kind of general history of travels is -produced, which, with some necessary breaks, brings down the subject -from the middle of the thirteenth century, the era of Marco Polo, to our -own times. The early part of this period is principally occupied with -the enterprises of foreigners, because our countrymen had not then begun -to distinguish themselves greatly in this department of literature. As -we advance, however, the genius and courage of Englishmen will command -a large share of our attention; and from a feeling which, perhaps, is -more than pardonable, I look forward to the execution of that part of my -undertaking with more than ordinary pride and pleasure. - - J. A. ST. JOHN. - -Paris, 1831. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - WILLIAM DE RUBRUQUIS. - - Born 1220.—Died about 1293, or 1294. - - Born in Brabant—Travels into Egypt—Despatched by St. Louis on - a mission into Tartary—Constantinople—Black Sea—Traverses the - Crimea—Imagines himself in a new world—Moving city—Extreme - ugliness of the Tartars—Desert of Kipjak—Tombs of the - Comans—Crosses the Tanais—Travels on foot—Camp of Sartak—Goes - to court—Religious procession—Departs—Reaches the camp - of Batou—Is extremely terrified—Makes a speech to the - khan—Is commanded to advance farther into Tartary—Suffers - extraordinary privations—Travels four months over the steppes - of Tartary—Miraculous old age of the pope—Wild asses—Distant - view of the Caucasus—Orrighers—Point of prayer—Buddhists—Court - of Mangou Khan—Audience—Appearance and behaviour of the - emperor—Karakorum—Disputes with the idolaters—Golden - fountain—Returns to Syria Page 17 - - MARCO POLO. - - Born 1250.—Died 1324. - - Departure of the father and uncle of Marco from - Venice—Bulgaria—Wanders through Turkestan—Sanguinary wars—Cross - the Gihon and remain three years at Bokhāra—Travels to - Cathay—Cambalu—Honourably received by Kublai Khan—Return as - the khan’s ambassador to Italy—Family misfortunes—Return - with Marco into Asia—Armenia—Persia—The assassins—City of - Balkh—Falls ill on the road—Is detained a whole year in the - province of Balashghan—Curious productions of the country, - and the singular manners of its inhabitants—Khoten—Desert - of Lop—Wonders of this desert—Shatcheu and Khamil—Barbarous - custom—Chinchintalas—Salamander linen—Desert of Shomo—Enormous - cattle—Musk deer—Beautiful cranes—Stupendous palace of - Chandu—Arrives at Cambalu—Acquires the language of the country, - and is made an ambassador—Description of Kublai Khan—Imperial - harem—Nursery of beauty—Palace of Cambalu—Pretension of the - Chinese to the invention of artillery—Magnificence of the - khan—Paper-money—Roads—Post-horses—Religion—Fertility—Tibet—Bloody - footsteps of war—Wild beasts—Abominable manners—Strange - clothing and money—The Dalai Lama—Murder of travellers—Teeth - plated with gold—Preposterous custom—Magical - physicians—Southern China—Emperor Fanfur—Anecdote—Prodigious - city—Extremes of wealth and poverty—Hackney-coaches and public - gardens—Manufacture of porcelain—Returns to Italy—The Polos - are forgotten by their relatives—Curious mode of proving their - identity—Marco taken prisoner by the Genoese—Writes his travels - in captivity—Returns to Venice—Dies 30 - - IBN BATŪTA. - - Born about 1300.—Died after 1353. - - Commences his travels—Romantic character—Arrives in - Egypt—Kalenders—Sweetness of the Nile—Anecdote of an - Arabian poet—Prophecy—Visits Palestine—Mount Lebanon—Visits - Mecca—Miracles—Gratitude of Ibn Batūta—Patron of - Mariners—Visits Yemen—Fish-eating cattle—Use of the - Betel-leaf—Pearl-divers—Curious brotherhood—Krim Tartary—Land - of darkness—Greek sultana—Mawaradnahr—Enters India—Arrives at - Delhi—Loses a daughter, and is made a judge—Is extravagant - in prosperity—Falls into disgrace, and is near losing his - head—Becomes a fakeer—Is restored to favour—Sent upon an - embassy to China—Is taken prisoner—Escapes—Mysterious - adventure—Travels to Malabar—Is reduced to beggary—Turn of - fortune—Visits the Maldive Islands—Marries four wives—New - version of the story of Andromeda—Sees a spectre ship—Visits - Ceylon—Adam’s Peak—Wonderful rose, with the name of God upon - it—Sails for Maabar—Is taken by pirates—Visits his son in the - Maldives—Sails for Sumatra, and China—Paper-money—Meets with - an old friend—The desire of revisiting home awakened—Returns - to Tangiers—Visits Spain—Crosses the desert of Sahara—Visits - Timbuctoo—Settles at Fez 69 - - LEO AFRICANUS. - - Born about 1486.—Died after 1540. - - Born at Grenada—Educated at Fez—Visits Timbuctoo—Anecdote - of a Mohammedan general—Adventures among the snowy - wilds of Mount Atlas—Visits the Bedouins of Northern - Africa—Resides in the kingdom of Morocco—People living in - baskets—Unknown ruins in Mount Dedas—Troglodytes—Travels - with a Moorish chief—Visits the city of Murderers—Adventure - with lions—Clouds of locusts—Is nearly stung to death by - fleas—Beautiful scenery—Tradition concerning the prophet - Jonah—Is engaged in a whimsical adventure among the - mountains—Jew artisans—Hospitality—Witnesses a bloody - battle—Delightful solitude—Romantic lake—Fishing and - hunting—Arabic poetry—Excursions through Fez—Ruins of - Rabat—Visits Telemsan and Algiers—Desert—Antelopes—Elegant - little city—City of Telemsan—History of a Mohammedan - saint—Description of Algiers—Barbarossa and Charles - V.—City of Kosantina—Ancient ruins and gardens—City - mentioned in Paradise Lost—Carthage—Segelmessa—Crosses - the Great Desert—Tremendous desolation—Story of two - merchants—Description of Timbuctoo—Women—Costume—Course - of the Niger—Bornou—Nubia—Curious poison—Egypt—Ruins of - Thebes—Cairo—Crime of a Mohammedan saint—Dancing camels and - asses—Curious anecdote of a mountebank—Ladies of Cairo—Is taken - by pirates, and sold as a slave—Pope Leo X.—Is converted to - Christianity—Resides in Italy, and writes his “Description of - Africa”—Date of his death unknown 109 - - PIETRO DELLA VALLE. - - Born 1586.—Died 1652. - - Born at Rome—Education and early life—Sails from - Venice—Constantinople—Plain of Troy—Manuscript of Livy—The - plague—Visits Egypt—Mount Sinai—Palestine—Crosses the northern - desert of Arabia—An Assyrian beauty—Falls in love from the - description of a fellow-traveller—Arrives at Bagdad—Tragical - event—Visits the ruins of Babylon—Marries—Beauty of his - wife—Departure from Bagdad—Mountains of Kurdistan—Enters - Persia—Ispahan—Wishes to make a crusade against the - Turks—Travels, with his harem, towards the Caspian Sea—Tragical - adventure of Signora della Valle—Arrives at Mazenderan—Enters - into the service of the shah, and is admitted to an - audience—Expedition against the Turks—Pietro does not engage - in the action—Disgusted with war—Returns to Ispahan—Domestic - misfortunes—Visits the shores of the Persian Gulf—Sickness - and Maani—Pietro embalms the body of his wife, and carries - it about with him through all his travels—Sails for India, - accompanied by a young orphan Georgian girl—Arrives at - Surat—Cambay—Ahmedabad—Goa—Witnesses a suttee—Returns to the - Persian Gulf—Muskat—Is robbed in the desert, but preserves the - body of his wife—Arrives in Italy—Magnificent funeral and tomb - of Maani—Marries again—Dies at Rome 149 - - JEAN BAPTISTE TAVERNIER. - - Born 1602.—Died 1685, or 1686. - - Native of Antwerp—Commences his adventures at a very early - age—Visits England and Germany—Becomes page to a viceroy - of Hungary—Visits Italy—Narrowly escapes death at the - siege of Mantua—Ratisbon—Imperial coronation—Tragical - event—Turkey—Persia—Hindostan—Anecdote of a Mogul prince—Visits - the diamond mines—Vast temple—Dancing girls—Mines of Raolconda - in the Carnatic—Mode of digging out the diamonds—Mode - of trafficking in jewels—Boy merchants—Anecdote of a - Banyan—Receives alarming news from Golconda—Returns—Finds - his property secure—Mines of Colour—Sixty thousand persons - employed in these mines—Mines of—Sumbhulpoor—Magical - jugglers—Miraculous tree—Extraordinary accident at - Ahmedabad—Arrival at Delhi—Palace and jewels of the Great - Mogul—Crosses the Ganges—Visits the city of Benares—Islands of - the Indian Ocean—Returns to France—Marries—Sets up an expensive - establishment—Honoured with letters of nobility—Purchases a - barony—Dissipates his fortune, and sets out once more for the - East, at the age of eighty-three—Is lost upon the Volga 180 - - FRANÇOIS BERNIER. - - Born about 1624.—Died 1688. - - A native of Angers—Educated for the medical profession—Visits - Syria and Egypt—Is ill of the plague at Rosetta—Anecdote - of an Arab servant—Visits Mount Sinai—Sails down the Red - Sea—Mokha—King of Abyssinia—Bargains with a father for his - own son—Sails for India—Becomes physician to the Great - Mogul—Is in the train of Dara, brother to Aurungzebe, during - his disastrous flight towards the Indus—Is deserted by the - prince—Falls among banditti—Exerts the powers of Esculapius - among the barbarians—Escapes—Proceeds to Delhi—Becomes - physician to the favourite of Aurungzebe—Converses with the - ambassadors of the Usbecks, and dines on horse-flesh—Anecdote - of a Tartar girl—Description of Delhi—Mussulman music—Enters - the imperial harem blindfold—Description of the imperial - palace—The hall of audience, and the peacock throne—Tomb of - Nourmahal—The emperor departs for Cashmere—Bernier travels - in the imperial train—Plains of Lahore—Magnificent style - of travelling—Tremendous heat—Enters Cashmere—Description - of this earthly paradise—Shawls—Beautiful cascades—Fearful - accident—Returns to Delhi—Extravagant flattery—Effects - of an eclipse of the sun—Visits Bengal—Sails up the - Sunderbund—Fireflies—Lunar rainbows—Returns to France, and - publishes his travels—Character 205 - - SIR JOHN CHARDIN. - - Born 1643.—Died 1713. - - Born at Paris—Son of a Protestant jeweller—Visits Persia and - Hindostan—Returns to France—Publishes his History of the - Coronation of Solyman III.—Again departs for Persia—Visits - Constantinople—Sails up the Black Sea—Caviare—Salt - marshes—Beautiful slaves—Arrives in Mingrelia—Tremendous - anarchy—Is surrounded by dangers—Arrives at a convent - of Italian monks—Is visited by a princess, and menaced - with a wife—Buries his wealth—The monastery attacked - and rifled—His treasures escape—Narrowly escapes with - life—Leaves his wealth buried in the ground, and sets out - for Georgia—Returns into Mingrelia with a monk, and the - property is at length withdrawn—Crosses the Caucasus—Traverses - Georgia—Armenia—Travels through the Orion—Arrives at Eryvan—Is - outwitted by a Persian khan—Traverses the plains of ancient - Media—Druidical monuments—Ruins of Rhe, the Rhages of the - Scriptures—Kom—An accident—Arrives at Ispahan—Commences - his negotiations with the court for the disposal of his - jewels—Modes of dealing in Persia—Character of Sheïkh Ali - Khan—Anecdote of the shah—Is introduced to the vizier, and - engaged in a long series of disputes with the nazir respecting - the value of his jewels—Curious mode of transacting business—Is - flattered, abused, and cheated by the nazir—Visits the ruins - of Persepolis—Description of the subterranean passages of - the palace—Arrives at Bander-Abassi—Is seized with the - gulf fever—Reduced to the brink of death—Flies from the - pestilence—Is cured by a Persian physician—Extraordinary - method of treating fever—Visits the court—Is presented to - the shah—Returns to Europe—Selects England for his future - country—Is knighted by Charles II., and sent as envoy to - Holland—Writes his travels—Dies in the neighborhood of London 233 - - ENGELBERT KÆMPFER. - - Born 1651.—Died 1716. - - A native of Westphalia—Education and early Life—Becomes - secretary to the Swedish Embassy to Persia—Visits - Russia—Crosses the Caspian Sea—Visits the city of Baku—Curious - adventure—Visits the promontory of Okesra—Burning - field—Fire worshippers—Curious experiment—Fountains of white - naphtha—Hall of naphtha—Arrives at Ispahan—Visits the ruins - of Persepolis—Description of Shiraz—Tombs of Hafiz and - Saadi—Resides at Bander-Abassi—Is attacked by the endemic - fever—Recovers—Retires to the mountains of Laristân—Mountains - of Bonna—Serpent—Chameleons—Animal in whose stomach the bezoar - is found—Sails for India—Arrives at Batavia—Visits Siam—Sails - along the coast of China—Strange birds—Storms—Arrival in - Japan—Journey to Jeddo—Audience of the emperor—Manners - and customs of the Japanese—Returns to Europe—Marries—Is - unfortunate—Publishes his “Amœnitates”—Dies—His manuscripts - published by Sir Hans Sloane 271 - - HENRY MAUNDRELL. - - Appointed chaplain to the English factory at Aleppo—Sets out - on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem—Crosses the Orontes—Wretched - village—Inhospitable villagers—Takes refuge from a tempest in - a Mussulman tomb—Distant view of Latichen—Syrian worshippers - of Venus—Tripoli—River of Adonis—Maronite convents—Palace - and gardens of Fakreddin—Sidon—Cisterns of Solomon—Mount - Carmel—Plains of Esdraelon—Dews of Hermon—Jerusalem—Jericho—The - Jordan—The Dead Sea—Apples of Sodom—Bethlehem—Mount - Lebanon—Damascus—Baalbec—The cedars—Returns to - Aleppo—Conclusion 305 - - - - -THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. - - - - -WILLIAM DE RUBRUQUIS. - -Born about 1220.—Died after 1293. - - -The conquests of Genghis Khan and his successors, extending from the -Amoor and the Chinese Wall to the confines of Poland and Hungary, having -excited extraordinary terror in the minds of the Christian princes of -Europe, many of them, and particularly the pope and the King of France, -despatched ambassadors into Tartary, rather as spies to observe the -strength and weakness of the country, and the real character of its -inhabitants, than for any genuine diplomatic purposes. Innocent IV. -commenced those anomalous negotiations, by sending, in 1246 and 1247, -ambassadors into Mongolia to the Great Khan, as well as to his lieutenant -in Persia. These ambassadors, as might be expected, were monks, religious -men being in those times almost the only persons possessing any talent -for observation, or the knowledge necessary to record their observations -for the benefit of those who sent them. The first embassy from the pope -terminated unsuccessfully, as did likewise the maiden effort of St. -Louis; but this pious monarch, whose zeal overpowered his good sense, -still imagined that the conversion of the Great Khan, which formed an -important part of his design, was far from being impracticable; and -upon the idle rumour that one of his nephews had embraced Christianity, -and thus opened a way for the Gospel into his dominions, St. Louis in -1253 despatched a second mission into Tartary, at the head of which was -William de Rubruquis. - -This celebrated monk was a native of Brabant, who, having travelled -through France, and several other countries of Europe, had passed -over, perhaps with the army of St. Louis, into Egypt, from whence he -had proceeded to the Holy Land. Of this part of his travels no account -remains. When intrusted, however, with the mission into Tartary, he -repaired to Constantinople, whence, having publicly offered up his -prayers to God in the church of St. Sophia, he departed on the 7th of -May, with his companions, and moving along the southern shore of the -Black Sea, arrived at Sinopia, where he embarked for the Crimea. From an -opinion that any indignities which might be offered to Rubruquis would -compromise the dignity of the king, it had been agreed between Louis and -his agent that, on the way at least, the latter should pretend to no -public character, but feign religious motives, as if he had been urged -by his own private zeal to endeavour the conversion of the khan and his -subjects. Upon reaching Soldaza in the Crimea, however, he discovered -that, secret as their proceedings were supposed to have been, the whole -scheme of the enterprise was perfectly understood; and that, unless as -the envoy of the king, he would not be permitted to continue his journey. - -Rubruquis had no sooner entered the dominions of the Tartars than -he imagined himself to be in a new world. The savage aspect of the -people, clad in the most grotesque costume, and eternally on horseback, -together with the strange appearance of the country, the sound of -unknown languages, the practice of unusual customs, and that feeling -of loneliness and desertion which seized upon their minds, caused our -traveller and his companions to credit somewhat too readily the deceptive -testimony of first impressions, which never strictly corresponds with -truth. Travelling in those covered wagons which serve the Tartars for -carriages, tents, and houses, and through immense steppes in which -neither town, village, house, nor any other building, save a few antique -tombs, appeared, they arrived in a few weeks at the camp of Zagatay Khan, -which, from the number of those moving houses there collected, and ranged -in long lines upon the edge of a lake, appeared like an immense city. - -Here they remained some days in order to repose themselves, and then -set forward, with guides furnished them by Zagatay, towards the camp -of Sartak, the prince to whom the letters of St. Louis were addressed. -The rude and rapacious manners of the Tartars, rendered somewhat more -insolent than ordinary, perhaps, by the unaccommodating temper of their -guests, appeared so detestable to Rubruquis, that, to use his own -forcible expression, he seemed to be passing through one of the gates of -hell; and his ideas were probably tinged with a more sombre hue by the -hideous features of the people, whose countenances continually kept up in -his mind the notion that he had fallen among a race of demons. As they -approached the Tanais the land rose occasionally into lofty hills, which -were succeeded by plains upon which nothing but the immense tombs of the -Comans, visible at a distance of two leagues, met the eye. - -Having crossed the Tanais and entered Asia, they were for several days -compelled to proceed on foot, there being neither horses nor oxen to be -obtained for money. Forests and rivers here diversified the prospect. -The inhabitants, a fierce, uncivilized race, bending beneath the yoke of -pagan superstition, and dwelling in huts scattered through the woods, -were yet hospitable to strangers, and so inaccessible to the feelings -of jealousy that they cared not upon whom their wives bestowed their -favours. Hogs, wax, honey, and furs of various kinds constituted the -whole of their wealth. At length, after a long and a wearisome journey, -which was rendered doubly irksome by their ignorance of the language of -the people, and the stupid and headstrong character of their interpreter, -they arrived on the 1st of July at the camp of Sartak, three days’ -journey west of the Volga. - -The court of this Tartar prince exhibited that species of magnificence -which may be supposed most congruous with the ideas of barbarians: ample -tents, richly caparisoned horses, and gorgeous apparel.—Rubruquis and -his suit entered the royal tent in solemn procession, with their rich -clerical ornaments, church plate, and illuminated missals borne before -them, holding a splendid copy of the Scriptures in their hands, wearing -their most sumptuous vestments, and thundering forth, as they moved -along, the “Salve Regina!” This pompous movement, which gave the mission -the appearance of being persons of consequence, and thus flattered the -vanity of Sartak, was not altogether impolitic; but it had one evil -consequence; for, although it probably heightened the politeness of their -reception, the sight of their sacred vessels, curious missals, and costly -dresses excited the cupidity of the Nestorian priests, and cost Rubruquis -dearly, many valuable articles being afterward sequestrated when he was -leaving Tartary. - -It now appeared that the reports of Sartak’s conversion to Christianity, -which had probably been circulated in Christendom by the vanity of the -Nestorians, were wholly without foundation; and with respect to the other -points touched upon in the letters of the French king, the khan professed -himself unable to make any reply without the counsel of his father -Batou, to whose court, therefore, he directed the ambassadors to proceed. -They accordingly recommenced their journey, and moving towards the east, -crossed the Volga, and traversed the plains of Kipjak, until they arrived -at the camp of this new sovereign, whose mighty name seems never before -to have reached their ears. Rubruquis was singularly astonished, however, -at the sight of this prodigious encampment, which covered the plain for -the space of three or four leagues, the royal tent rising like an immense -dome in the centre, with a vast open space before it on the southern side. - -On the morning after their arrival they were presented to the khan. They -found Batou, the description of whose red countenance reminds the reader -of Tacitus’s portrait of Domitian, seated upon a lofty throne glittering -with gold. One of his wives sat near him, and around this lady and the -other wives of Batou, who were all present, his principal courtiers had -taken their station. Rubruquis was now commanded by his conductor to -kneel before the prince. He accordingly bent one knee, and was about to -speak, when his guide informed him by a sign that it was necessary to -bend both. This he did, and then imagining, he says, that he was kneeling -before God, in order to keep up the illusion, he commenced his speech -with an ejaculation. Having prayed that to the earthly gifts which the -Almighty had showered down so abundantly upon the khan, the favour of -Heaven might be added, he proceeded to say, that the spiritual gifts to -which he alluded could be obtained only by becoming a Christian; for -that God himself had said, “He who believeth and is baptized shall be -saved; but he who believeth not shall be damned.” At these words the khan -smiled; but his courtiers, less hospitable and polite, began to clap -their hands, and hoot and mock at the denouncer of celestial vengeance. -The interpreter, who, in all probability, wholly misrepresented the -speeches he attempted to translate, and thus, perhaps, by some -inconceivable blunders excited the derision of the Tartars, now began to -be greatly terrified, as did Rubruquis himself, who probably remembered -that the leader of a former embassy had been menaced with the fate of -St. Bartholomew. Batou, however, who seems to have compassionated his -sufferings, desired him to rise up; and turning the conversation into -another channel, began to make inquiries respecting the French king, -asking what was his name, and whether it was true that he had quitted -his own country for the purpose of carrying on a foreign war. Rubruquis -then endeavoured, but I know not with what success, to explain the -motives of the crusaders, and several other topics upon which Batou -required information. Observing that the ambassador was much dejected, -and apparently filled with terror, the khan commanded him to sit down; -and still more to reassure him and dissipate his apprehensions, ordered -a bowl of mare’s milk, or _koismos_, to be put out before him, which, -as bread and salt among the Arabs, is with them the sacred pledge of -hospitality; but perceiving that even this failed to dispel his gloomy -thoughts, he bade him look up and be of good cheer, giving him clearly to -understand that no injury was designed him. - -Notwithstanding the barbaric magnificence of his court, and the terror -with which he had inspired Rubruquis, Batou was but a dependent prince, -who would not for his head have dared to determine good or evil -respecting any ambassador entering Tartary,—every thing in these matters -depending upon the sovereign will of his brother Mangou, the Great -Khan of the Mongols. Batou, in fact, caused so much to be signified to -Rubruquis, informing him, that to obtain a reply to the letters he had -brought, he must repair to the court of the Khe-Khan. When they had been -allowed sufficient time for repose, a Tartar chief was assigned them -as a guide, and being furnished with horses for themselves and their -necessary baggage, the remainder being left behind, and with sheepskin -coats to defend them from the piercing cold, they set forward towards the -camp of Mangou, then pitched near the extreme frontier of Mongolia, at -the distance of four months’ journey. - -The privations and fatigue which they endured during this journey were -indescribable. Whenever they changed horses, the wily Tartar impudently -selected the best beast for himself, though Rubruquis was a large heavy -man, and therefore required a powerful animal to support his weight. -If any of their horses flagged on the way, the whip and the stick were -mercilessly plied, to compel him, whether he would or not, to keep pace -with the others, which scoured along over the interminable steppes with -the rapidity of an arrow; and when, as sometimes happened, the beast -totally foundered, the two Franks (for there were now but two, the third -having remained with Sartak) were compelled to mount, the one behind -the other, on the same horse, and thus follow their indefatigable and -unfeeling conductor. Hard riding was not, however, the only hardship -which they had to undergo. Thirst, and hunger, and cold were added -to fatigue; for they were allowed but one meal per day, which they -always ate in the evening, when their day’s journey was over. Their -food, moreover, was not extremely palatable, consisting generally of -the shoulder or ribs of some half-starved sheep, which, to increase -the savouriness of its flavour, was cooked with ox and horse-dung, -and devoured half-raw. As they advanced, their conductor, who at the -commencement regarded them with great contempt, and appears to have -been making the experiment whether hardship would kill them or not, -grew reconciled to his charge, perceiving that they would not die, -and introduced them as they proceeded to various powerful and wealthy -Mongols, who seem to have treated them kindly, offering them, in return -for their prayers, gold, and silver, and costly garments. The Hindoos, -who imagine the East India Company to be an old woman, are a type of -those sagacious Tartars, who, as Rubruquis assures us, supposed that the -pope was an old man whose beard had been blanched by five hundred winters. - -On the 31st of October, they turned their horses’ heads towards the -south, and proceeded for eight days through a desert, where they beheld -large droves of wild asses, which, like those seen by the Ten Thousand -in Mesopotamia, were far too swift for the fleetest steeds. During the -seventh day, they perceived on their right the glittering peaks of the -Caucasus towering above the clouds, and arrived on the morrow at Kenkat, -a Mohammedan town, where they tasted of wine, and that delicious liquor -which the orientals extract from rice. At a city which Rubruquis calls -_Egaius_, near Lake Baikal, he found traces of the Persian language; and -shortly afterward entered the country of the Orrighers, an idolatrous, or -at least a pagan race, who worshipped with their faces towards the north, -while the east was at that period the _Kableh_, or praying-point of the -Christians. - -Our traveller, though far from being intolerant for his age, had not -attained that pitch of humanity which teaches us to do to others as we -would they should do unto us; for upon entering a temple, which, from his -description, we discover to have been dedicated to Buddha, and finding -the priests engaged in their devotions, he irreverently disturbed them by -asking questions, and endeavouring to enter into conversation with them. -The Buddhists, consistently with the mildness of their religion, rebuked -this intrusion by the most obstinate silence, or by continual repetitions -of the words “Om, Om! hactavi!” which, as he was afterward informed, -signified, “Lord, Lord! thou knowest it!” These priests, like the bonzes -of China, Ava, and Siam, shaved their heads, and wore flowing yellow -garments, probably to show their contempt for the Brahminical race, among -whom yellow is the badge of the most degraded castes. They believed in -one God, and, like their Hindoo forefathers, burned their dead, and -erected pyramids over their ashes. - -Continuing their journey with their usual rapidity, they arrived on the -last day of the year at the court of Mangou, who was encamped in a plain -of immeasurable extent, and as level as the sea. Here, notwithstanding -the rigour of the cold, Rubruquis, conformably to the rules of his order, -went to court barefoot,—a piece of affectation for which he afterward -suffered severely. Three or four days’ experience of the cold of Northern -Tartary cured him of this folly, however; so that by the 4th of January, -1254, when he was admitted to an audience of Mangou, he was content to -wear shoes like another person. - -On entering the imperial tent, heedless of time and place, Rubruquis -and his companion began to chant the hymn “A Solis Ortu,” which, in all -probability made the khan, who understood not one word of what they said, -and knew the meaning of none of their ceremonies, regard them as madmen. -However, on this point nothing was said; only, before they advanced -into the presence they were carefully searched, lest they should have -concealed knives or daggers under their robes with which they might -assassinate the khan. Even their interpreter was compelled to leave his -belt and kharjar with the porter. Mare’s milk was placed on a low table -near the entrance, close to which they were desired to seat themselves, -upon a kind of long seat, or form, opposite the queen and her ladies. The -floor was covered with cloth of gold, and in the centre of the apartment -was a kind of open stove, in which a fire of thorns, and other dry -sticks, mingled with cow-dung, was burning. The khan, clothed in a robe -of shining fur, something resembling seal-skin, was seated on a small -couch. He was a man of about forty-five, of middling stature, with a -thick flat nose. His queen, a young and beautiful woman, was seated near -him, together with one of his daughters by a former wife, a princess of -marriageable age, and a great number of young children. - -The first question put to them by the khan was, what they would drink; -there being upon the table four species of beverage,—wine, cerasine, or -rice-wine, milk, and a sort of metheglin. They replied that they were no -great drinkers, but would readily taste of whatever his majesty might -please to command; upon which the khan directed his cupbearer to place -cerasine before them. The Turcoman interpreter, who was a man of very -different mettle, and perhaps thought it a sin to permit the khan’s -wine to lie idle, had meanwhile conceived a violent affection for the -cupbearer, and had so frequently put his services in requisition, that -whether he was in the imperial tent or in a Frank tavern was to him a -matter of some doubt. Mangou himself had pledged his Christian guests -somewhat too freely; and in order to allow his brain leisure to adjust -itself, and at the same time to excite the wonder of the strangers by -his skill in falconry, commanded various kinds of birds of prey to -be brought, each of which he placed successively upon his hand, and -considered with that steady sagacity which men a little touched with wine -are fond of exhibiting. - -Having assiduously regarded the birds long enough to evince his imperial -contempt of politeness, Mangou desired the ambassadors to speak. -Rubruquis obeyed, and delivered an harangue of some length, which, -considering the muddy state of the interpreter’s brain and the extremely -analogous condition of the khan’s, may very safely be supposed to have -been dispersed, like the rejected prayers of the Homeric heroes, in empty -air. In reply, as he wittily observes, Mangou made a speech, from which, -as it was translated to him, the ambassador could infer nothing except -that the interpreter was extremely drunk, and the emperor very little -better. In spite of this cloudy medium, however, he imagined he could -perceive that Mangou intended to express some displeasure at their having -in the first instance repaired to the court of Sartak rather than to his; -but observing that the interpreter’s brain was totally hostile to the -passage of rational ideas, Rubruquis wisely concluded that silence would -be his best friend on the occasion, and he accordingly addressed himself -to that moody and mysterious power, and shortly afterward received -permission to retire. - -The ostensible object of Rubruquis was to obtain permission to remain -in Mongolia for the purpose of preaching the Gospel; but whether this -was merely a feint, or that the appearance of the country and people -had cooled his zeal, it is certain that he did not urge the point very -vehemently. However, the khan was easily prevailed upon to allow him to -prolong his stay till the melting of the snows and the warm breezes of -spring should render travelling more agreeable. In the mean while our -ambassador employed himself in acquiring some knowledge of the people and -the country; but the language, without which such knowledge must ever be -superficial, he totally neglected. - -About Easter the khan, with his family and smaller tents or pavilions, -quitted the camp, and proceeded towards Karakorum, which might be termed -his capital, for the purpose of examining a marvellous piece of jewelry -in form of a tree, the production of a French goldsmith. This curious -piece of mechanism was set up in the banqueting-hall of his palace, and -from its branches, as from some miraculous fountain, four kinds of wines -and other delicious cordials, gushed forth for the use of the guests. -Rubruquis and his companions followed in the emperor’s train, traversing -a mountainous and steril district, where tempests, bearing snow and -intolerable cold upon their wings, swept and roared around them as they -passed, piercing through their sheep-skins and other coverings to their -very bones. - -At Karakorum, a small city, which Rubruquis compares to the town of -St. Denis, near Paris, our ambassador-missionary maintained a public -disputation with certain pagan priests, in the presence of three of -the khan’s secretaries, of whom the first was a Christian, the second -a Mohammedan, and the third a Buddhist. The conduct of the khan was -distinguished by the most perfect toleration, as he commanded under -pain of death that none of the disputants should slander, traduce, -or abuse his adversaries, or endeavour by rumours or insinuations to -excite popular indignation against them; an act of mildness from which -Rubruquis, with the illiberality of a monk, inferred that Mangou was -totally indifferent to all religion. His object, however, seems to have -been to discover the truth; but from the disputes of men who argued with -each other through interpreters wholly ignorant of the subject, and none -of whom could clearly comprehend the doctrines he impugned, no great -instruction was to be derived. Accordingly, the dispute ended, as all -such disputes must, in smoke; and each disputant retired from the field -more fully persuaded than ever of the invulnerable force of his own -system. - -At length, perceiving that nothing was to be effected, and having, -indeed, no very definite object to effect, excepting the conversion of -the khan, which to a man who could not even converse with him upon the -most ordinary topic, seemed difficult, Rubruquis took his leave of the -Mongol court, and leaving his companion at Karakorum, turned his face -towards the west. Returning by an easier or more direct route, he reached -the camp of Batou in two months. From thence he proceeded to the city -of Sarai on the Volga, and descending along the course of that river, -entered Danghistan, crossed the Caucasus, and pursued his journey through -Georgia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Syria. - -Here he discovered that, taught by misfortune or yielding to the force -of circumstances, the French king had relinquished, at least for the -present, his mad project of recovering Palestine. He was therefore -desirous of proceeding to Europe, for the purpose of rendering this -prince an account of his mission; but this being contrary to the wishes -of his superiors, who had assigned him the convent of Acra for his -retreat, he contented himself with drawing up an account of his travels, -which was forwarded, by the first opportunity that occurred, to St. Louis -in France. Rubruquis then retired to his convent, in the gloom of whose -cloisters he thenceforward concealed himself from the eyes of mankind. It -has been ascertained, however, that he was still living in 1293, though -the exact date of his death is unknown. - -The work of Rubruquis was originally written in Latin, from which -language a portion of it was translated into English and published by -Hackluyt. Shortly afterward Purchas published a new version of the whole -work in his collection. From this version Bergeron made his translation -into French, with the aid of a Latin manuscript, which Vander Aa and the -“Biographie Universelle” have multiplied into two. In all or any of these -forms, the work may still be read with great pleasure and advantage by -the diligent student of the opinions and manners of mankind. - - - - -MARCO POLO. - -Born 1250.—Died 1324. - - -The relations of Ascelin, Carpini, and Rubruquis, which are supposed -by some writers to have opened the way to the discoveries of the Polo -family, are by no means entitled to so high an honour. Carpini did not -return to Italy until the latter end of the year 1248; Ascelin’s return -was still later; and although reports of the strange things they had -beheld no doubt quickly reached Venice, these cannot be supposed to -have exercised any very powerful influence in determining Nicolo and -Maffio to undertake a voyage to Constantinople, the original place of -their destination, from whence they were accidentally led on into the -extremities of Tartary. With respect to Rubruquis, he commenced his -undertaking three years after their departure from Venice, while they -were in Bokhāra; and before his return to Palestine they had already -penetrated into Cathay. The influence of the relations of these monks -upon the movements of the Polos is therefore imaginary. - -Nicolo and Maffio Polo, two noble Venetians engaged in commerce, having -freighted a vessel with rich merchandise, sailed from Venice in the year -1250. Traversing the Mediterranean and the Bosphorus, they arrived in -safety at Constantinople, Baldwin II. being then Emperor of the East. -Here they disposed of their cargo, and purchasing rich jewels with the -proceeds, crossed the Black Sea to Soldain, or Sudak, in the Crimea, -from whence they travelled by land to the court of Barkah Khan, a Tartar -prince, whose principal residences were the cities of Al-Serai, and -Bolghar. To this khan they presented a number of their finest jewels, -receiving gifts of still greater value in return. When they had spent -a whole year in the dominions of Barkah, and were beginning to prepare -for their return to Italy, hostilities suddenly broke out between the -khan and his cousin Holagon; which, rendering unsafe all passages -to the west, compelled them to make the circuit of the northern and -eastern frontiers of Kipjak. Having escaped from the scene of war they -crossed Gihon, and then traversing a desert of seventeen days’ journey, -thinly sprinkled with the tents of the wandering tribes, they arrived -at Bokhāra. Here they remained three years. At the termination of this -period an ambassador from Holagon to Kublai Khan passing through Bokhāra, -and happening accidentally to meet with the Polos, who had by this time -acquired a competent knowledge of the Tartar language, was greatly -charmed with their conversation and manners, and by much persuasion -and many magnificent promises prevailed upon them to accompany him to -Cambalu, or Khanbalik, in Cathay. A whole year was consumed in this -journey. At length, however, they arrived at the court of the Great Khan, -who received and treated them with peculiar distinction. - -How long the brothers remained at Cambalu is not known; but their -residence, whatever may have been its length, sufficed to impress Kublai -Khan with an exalted opinion of their honour and capacity, so that when -by the advice of his courtiers he determined on sending an embassy to the -pope, Nicolo and Maffio were intrusted with the conduct of the mission. -They accordingly departed from Cambalu, furnished with letters for the -head of the Christian church, a passport or tablet of gold, empowering -them to provide themselves with guides, horses, and provisions throughout -the khan’s dominions, and accompanied by a Tartar nobleman. This Tartar -falling exceedingly ill on the way, they proceeded alone, and, after -three years of toil and dangers, arrived at Venice in 1269. - -Nicolo, who, during the many years he had been absent, seems to have -received no intelligence from home, now found that his wife, whom he -had left pregnant at his departure, was dead, but that she had left him -a son, named Marco, then nineteen years old. The pope, likewise, had -died the preceding year; and various intrigues preventing the election -of a successor, they remained in Italy two years, unable to execute the -commission of the khan. At length, fearing that their long absence might -be displeasing to Kublai, and perceiving no probability of a speedy -termination to the intrigues of the conclave, they, in 1271, again set -out for the East, accompanied by young Marco. - -Arriving in Palestine, they obtained from the legate Visconti, then at -Acre, letters testifying their fidelity to the Great Khan, and stating -the fact that a new pope had not yet been chosen. At Al-Ajassi, in -Armenia, however, they were overtaken by a messenger from Visconti, who -wrote to inform them that he himself had been elected to fill the papal -throne, and requested that they would either return, or delay their -departure until he could provide them with new letters to the khan. As -soon as these letters and the presents of his holiness arrived, they -continued their journey, and passing through the northern provinces of -Persia, were amused with the extraordinary history of the Assassins, then -recently destroyed by a general of Holagon. - -Quitting Persia, they proceeded through a rich and picturesque country -to Balkh, a celebrated city, which they found in ruins and nearly -deserted, its lofty walls and marble palaces having been levelled -with the ground by the devastating armies of the Mongols. The country -in the neighbourhood had likewise been depopulated, the inhabitants -having taken refuge in the mountains from the rapacious cruelty of the -predatory hordes, who roamed over the vast fields which greater robbers -had reaped, gleaning the scanty plunder which had escaped their powerful -predecessors. Though the land was well watered and fertile, and abounding -in game, lions and other wild beasts had begun to establish their -dominion over it, man having disappeared; and therefore, such travellers -as ventured across this new wilderness were constrained to carry along -with them all necessary provisions, nothing whatever being to be found on -the way. - -When they had passed this desert, they arrived in a country richly -cultivated and covered with corn, to the south of which there was a ridge -of high mountains, where such prodigious quantities of salt were found -that all the world might have been supplied from those mines. The track -of our travellers through the geographical labyrinth of Tartary it is -impossible to follow. They appear to have been prevented by accidents -from pursuing any regular course, in one place having their passage -impeded by the overflowing of a river, and on other occasions being -turned aside by the raging of bloody wars, by the heat or barrenness, or -extent of deserts, or by their utter inability to procure guides through -tracts covered with impervious forests or perilous morasses. - -They next proceeded through a fertile country, inhabited by Mohammedans, -to the town of Scasom, perhaps the Koukan of Arrowsmith, on the Sirr -or Sihon. Numerous castles occupied the fastnesses of the mountains, -while the shepherd tribes, like the troglodytes of old, dwelt with their -herds and flocks in caverns scooped out of the rock. In three days’ -journey from hence they reached the province of Balascia, or Balashghan, -where, Marco falling sick, the party were detained during a whole -year, a delay which afforded our illustrious traveller ample leisure -for prosecuting his researches respecting this and the neighbouring -countries. The kings of this petty sovereignty pretended to trace their -descent from the Macedonian conqueror and the daughter of Darius; making -up, by the fabulous splendour of their genealogy, for their want of -actual power. The inhabitants were Mohammedans, and spoke a language -peculiar to themselves. It was said, that not many years previous they -had possessed a race of horses equally illustrious with their kings, -being descended from Bucephalus; but as it was asserted that these noble -animals possessed one great advantage over their kings, that of bearing -upon their foreheads the peculiar mark which distinguished the great -founder of their family, thus proving the purity of the breed, they very -prudently added that the whole race had recently been exterminated. - -This country was rich in minerals and precious stones, lead, copper, -silver, lapis lazuli, and rubies abounding in the mountains. The climate -was cold, and that of the plains insalubrious, engendering agues, which -quickly yielded, however, to the bracing air of the hills; where Marco, -after languishing for a whole year with this disorder, recovered his -health in the course of a few days. The horses were large, strong, and -swift, and had hoofs so tough that they could travel unshod over the most -rocky places. Vast flocks of wild sheep, exceedingly difficult to be -taken, were found in the hills. - -Marco’s health being restored, our travellers resumed their journey -towards Cathay, and proceeding in a north-easterly direction, arrived -at the roots of a vast mountain, reported by the inhabitants to be the -loftiest in the world. Having continued for three days ascending the -steep approaches to this mountain, they reached an extensive table-land, -hemmed in on both sides by still loftier mountains, and having a great -lake in its centre. A fine river likewise flowed through it, and -maintained so extraordinary a degree of fertility in the pastures upon -its banks, that an ox or horse brought lean to these plains would become -fat in ten days. Great numbers of wild animals were found here, among the -rest a species of wild sheep with horns six spans in length, from which -numerous drinking-vessels were made. This immense plain, notwithstanding -its fertility, was uninhabited, and the severity of the cold prevented -its being frequented by birds. Fire, too, it was asserted, did not here -burn so brightly, or produce the same effect upon food, as in other -places: an observation which has recently been made on the mountains of -Savoy and Switzerland. - -From this plain they proceeded along the foot of the Allak mountains -to the country of Kashgar, which, possessing a fertile soil, and an -industrious and ingenious population, was maintained in a high state -of cultivation, and beautified with numerous gardens, orchards, and -vineyards. From Kashgar they travelled to Yarkand, where the inhabitants, -like those of the valleys of the Pyrenees, were subject to the goitres, -or large wens upon the throat. To this province succeeded that of -Khoten, whence our word _cotton_ has been derived. The inhabitants of -this country, an industrious but unwarlike race, were of the Mohammedan -religion, and tributaries to the Great Khan. Proceeding in their -south-easterly direction, they passed through the city of Peym, where, -if a husband or wife were absent from home twenty days, the remaining -moiety might marry again; and pursuing their course through sandy -barren plains, arrived at the country of Sartem. Here the landscape was -enlivened by numerous cities and castles; but when the storm of war burst -upon them, the inhabitants, like the Arabs, relied upon famine as their -principal weapon against the enemy, retiring with their wives, children, -treasures, and provisions, into the desert, whither none could follow -them. To secure their subsistence from plunder, they habitually scooped -out their granaries in the depths of the desert, where, after harvest, -they annually buried their corn in deep pits, over which the wind soon -spread the wavy sand as before, obliterating all traces of their labours. -They themselves, however, possessed some unerring index to the spot, -which enabled them at all times to discover their hoards. Chalcedonies, -jaspers, and other precious stones were found in the rivers of this -province. - -Here some insurmountable obstacle preventing their pursuing a direct -course, they deviated towards the north, and in five days arrived at -the city of Lop, on the border of the desert of the same name. This -prodigious wilderness, the most extensive in Asia, could not, as was -reported, be traversed from west to east in less than a year; while, -proceeding from south to north, a month’s journey conducted the traveller -across its whole latitude. Remaining some time at the city of Lop, or -Lok, to make the necessary preparations for the journey, they entered the -desert. In all those fearful scenes where man is constrained to compare -his own insignificance with the magnificent and resistless power of the -elements, legends, accommodated to the nature of the place, abound, -peopling the frozen deep or the “howling wilderness” with poetical -horrors superadded to those which actually exist. On the present occasion -their Tartar companions, or guides, entertained our travellers with the -wild tales current in the country. Having dwelt sufficiently upon the -tremendous sufferings which famine or want of water sometimes inflicted -upon the hapless merchant in those inhospitable wastes, they added, from -their legendary stores, that malignant demons continually hovered in the -cold blast or murky cloud which nightly swept over the sands. Delighting -in mischief, they frequently exerted their supernatural powers in -steeping the senses of travellers in delusion, sometimes calling them -by their names, practising upon their sight, or, by raising up phantom -shapes, leading them astray, and overwhelming them in the sands. Upon -other occasions, the ears of the traveller were delighted with the sounds -of music which these active spirits, like Shakspeare’s Ariel, scattered -through the dusky air; or were saluted with that sweetest of all music, -the voice of friends. Then, suddenly changing their mood, the beat of -drums, the clash of arms, and a stream of footfalls, and of the tramp of -hoofs, were heard, as if whole armies were marching past in the darkness. -Such as were deluded by any of these arts, and separated, whether by -night or day, from their caravan, generally lost themselves in the -pathless wilds, and perished miserably of hunger. To prevent this danger, -travellers kept close together, and suspended little bells about the -necks of their beasts; and when any of their party unfortunately lagged -behind, they carefully fixed up marks along their route, in order to -enable them to follow. - -Having safely traversed this mysterious desert, they arrived at the -city of Shatcheu, on the Polonkir, in Tangut. Here the majority of the -inhabitants were pagans and polytheists, and their various gods possessed -numerous temples in different parts of the city. Marco, who was a -diligent inquirer into the creed and religious customs of the nations he -visited, discovered many singular traits of superstition at Shatcheu. -When a son was born in a family, he was immediately consecrated to some -one of their numerous gods; and a sheep, yeaned, perhaps, on the birthday -of the child, was carefully kept and fed in the house during a whole -year: at the expiration of which term both the child and the sheep were -carried to the temple, and offered as a sacrifice to the god. The god, -or, which was the same thing, the priests, accepted the sheep, which -they could eat, in lieu of the boy, whom they could not; and the meat -being dressed in the temple, that the deity might be refreshed with the -sweet-smelling savour, was then conveyed to the father’s dwelling, where -a sumptuous feast ensued, at which it may be safely inferred the servants -of the temple were not forgotten. At all events, the priests received the -head, feet, skin, and entrails, with a portion of the flesh, for their -share. The bones were preserved, probably for purposes of divination. - -Their exit from life was celebrated with as much pomp as their entrance -into it. Astrologers, the universal pests of the east, were immediately -consulted; and these, having learned the year, month, day, and hour -in which the deceased was born, interrogated the stars, and by their -mute but significant replies discovered the precise moment on which the -interment was to take place. Sometimes these oracles of the sky became -sullen, and for six months vouchsafed no answer to the astrologers, -during all which time the corpse remained in a species of purgatory, -uncertain of its doom. To prevent the dead from keeping the living in -the same state, however, the body, having been previously embalmed, was -enclosed in a coffin so artificially constructed that no offensive odour -could escape; while, as the soul was supposed to hover all this while -over its ancient tenement, and to require, as formerly, some kind of -earthly sustenance, food was daily placed before the deceased, that the -spirit might satisfy its appetite with the agreeable effluvia. When the -day of interment arrived, the astrologers, who would have lost their -credit had they always allowed things to proceed in a rational way, -sometimes commanded the body to be borne out through an opening made for -the purpose in the wall, professing to be guided in this matter by the -stars, who, having no other employment, were extremely solicitous that -all Tartars should be interred in due form. On the way from the house of -the deceased to the cemetery, wooden cottages with porches covered with -silk were erected at certain intervals, in which the coffin was set down -before a table covered with bread, wine, and other delicacies, that the -spirit might be refreshed with the savour. The procession was accompanied -by all the musical instruments in the city; and along with the body were -borne representations upon paper of servants of both sexes, horses, -camels, money, and costly garments, all of which were consumed with the -corpse on the funeral pile, instead of the realities, which, according to -Herodotus, were anciently offered up as a sacrifice to the manes at the -tombs of the Scythian chiefs. - -Turning once more towards the north, they entered the fertile and -agreeable province of Khamil, situated between the vast desert of Lop and -another smaller desert, only three days’ journey across. The natives of -this country, practical disciples of Aristippus, being of opinion that -pleasure is happiness, seemed to live only for amusement, devoting the -whole of their time to singing, dancing, music, and literature. Their -hospitality, like that of the knights of chivalry, was so boundlessly -profuse, that strangers were permitted to share, not only their board, -but their bed, the master of a family departing when a guest arrived, in -order to render him more completely at home with his wife and daughters. -To increase the value of this extraordinary species of hospitality, it is -added that the women of Khamil are beautiful, and as fully disposed as -their lords to promote the happiness of their guests. Mangou Khan, the -predecessor of Kublai, desirous of reforming the morals of his subjects, -whatever might be the fate of his own, abolished this abominable custom; -but years of scarcity and domestic afflictions ensuing, the people -petitioned to have the right of following their ancestral customs -restored to them. “Since you glory in your shame,” said Mangou to -their ambassadors, “you may go and act according to your customs.” -The flattering privilege was received with great rejoicings, and the -practice, strange as it may be, has continued up to the present day. - -Departing from this Tartarian Sybaris, they entered the province of -Chinchintalas, a country thickly peopled, and rich in mines, but chiefly -remarkable for that salamander species of linen, manufactured from -the slender fibres of the asbestos, which was cleansed from stains by -being cast into the fire. Then followed the district of Sucher, in the -mountains of which the best rhubarb in the world was found. They next -directed their course towards the north-east, and having completed the -passage of the desert of Shomo, which occupied forty days, arrived at the -city of Karakorum, compared by Rubruquis to the insignificant town of -St. Denis, in France, but said by Marco Polo to have been three miles in -circumference, and strongly fortified with earthen ramparts. - -Our travellers now turned their faces towards the south, and traversing -an immense tract of country which Marco considered unworthy of minute -description, passed the boundaries of Mongolia, and entered Cathay. -During this journey they travelled through a district in which were found -enormous wild cattle, nearly approaching the size of the elephant, and -clothed with a fine, soft, black and white hair, in many respects more -beautiful than silk, specimens of which Marco procured and brought home -with him to Venice on his return. Here, likewise, the best musk in the -world was found. The animal from which it was procured resembled a goat -in size, but in gracefulness and beauty bore a stronger likeness to the -antelope, except that it had no horns. On the belly of this animal there -appeared, every full moon, a small protuberance or excrescence, like a -thin silken bag, filled with the liquid perfume; to obtain which the -animal was hunted and slain. This bag was then severed from the body, -and its contents, when dried, were distributed at an enormous price over -the world, to scent the toilets and the persons of beauties in reality -more sweet than itself. - -Near Changanor, at another point of their journey, they saw one of the -khan’s palaces, which was surrounded by beautiful gardens, containing -numerous small lakes and rivulets and a prodigious number of swans. The -neighbouring plains abounded in partridges, pheasants, and other game, -among which are enumerated five species of cranes, some of a snowy -whiteness, others with black wings, their feathers being ornamented with -eyes like those of the peacock, but of a golden colour, with beautiful -black and white necks. Immense flocks of quails and partridges were found -in a valley near this city, where millet and other kinds of grain were -sown for them by order of the khan, who likewise appointed a number of -persons to watch over the birds, and caused huts to be erected in which -they might take shelter and be fed by their keepers during the severity -of the winter. By these means, the khan had at all times a large quantity -of game at his command. - -At Chandu, three days’ journey south-west of Changanor, they beheld the -stupendous palace which Kublai Khan had erected in that city. Neither -the dimensions nor the architecture are described by Marco Polo, but -it is said to have been constructed, with singular art and beauty, of -marble and other precious materials. The grounds of this palace, which -were surrounded by a wall, were sixteen miles in circumference, and -were beautifully laid out into meadows, groves, and lawns, watered by -sparkling streams, and abundantly stocked with red and fallow deer, and -other animals of the chase. In this park the khan had a mew of falcons, -which, when at the palace, he visited once a week, and caused to be fed -with the flesh of young fawns. Tame leopards were employed in hunting the -stag, and, like the chattah, or tiger, used for the same purpose in the -Carnatic, were carried out on horseback to the scene of action, and let -loose only when the game appeared. - -In the midst of a tall grove, there was an elegant pavilion, or -summer-house, of wood, supported on pillars, and glittering with the -richest gilding. Against each pillar stood the figure of a dragon, -likewise richly gilt, with its tail curling round the shaft, its head -touching the roof, and its wings extended on both sides through the -intercolumniations. The roof was composed of split bamboos gilded and -varnished, and so skilfully shelving over each other that no rain could -ever penetrate between them. This beautiful structure could easily be -taken to pieces or re-erected, like a tent, and, to prevent it from being -overthrown by the wind, was fastened to the earth by two hundred silken -ropes. At this palace the khan regularly spent the three summer months -of June, July, and August, leaving it on the 28th of the last-named -month, in order to proceed towards the south. Eight days previous to -his departure, however, having solemnly consulted his astrologers, the -khan annually offered sacrifice to the gods and spirits of the earth, -the ceremony consisting in sprinkling a quantity of white mare’s milk -upon the ground with his own hands, at the same time praying for the -prosperity of his subjects, wives, and children. Kublai Khan was in no -danger of wanting milk for this sacrifice, since he possessed a stud of -horses, nearly ten thousand in number, all so purely white, that like -certain Homeric steeds, they might, without vanity, have traced their -origin to Boreas, the father of the snow. Indeed, much of this imperial -nectar must have streamed in libations to mother earth on less solemn -occasions; since none but persons of the royal race of Genghis Khan were -permitted to drink of it, with the exception of one single family, named -Boriat, to whom this distinguished privilege had been granted by Genghis -for their prowess and valour. - -Our travellers now drew near Cambalu, and the khan, having received -intelligence of their approach, sent forth messengers to meet them at -the distance of forty days’ journey from the imperial city, that they -might be provided with all necessaries on the way, and conducted with -every mark of honour and distinction to the capital. Upon their arrival, -they were immediately presented to the khan; and having prostrated -themselves upon the ground, according to the custom of the country, were -commanded to rise, and most graciously received. When they had been -kindly interrogated by the emperor respecting the fatigues and dangers -they had encountered in his service, and had briefly related their -proceedings with the pope and in Palestine, from whence, at the khan’s -desire, they had brought a small portion of holy oil from the lamp of -Christ’s sepulchre at Jerusalem, they received high commendations for -their care and fidelity. Then the khan, observing Marco, inquired, “Who -is this youth?”—“He is your majesty’s servant, and my son,” replied -Nicolo. Kublai then received the young man with a smile, and, appointing -him to some office about his person, caused him to be instructed in -the languages and sciences of the country. Marco’s aptitude and genius -enabled him to fulfil the wishes of the khan. In a very short time he -acquired, by diligence and assiduity, a large acquaintance with the -manners of the Mongols, and could speak and write fluently in four of the -languages of the empire. - -When Marco Polo appeared to have acquired the necessary degree of -information, the khan, to make trial of his ability, despatched him upon -an embassy to a city or chief called Karakhan, at the distance of six -months’ journey from Cambalu. This difficult commission our traveller -executed with ability and discretion; and in order still further to -enhance the merit of his services in the estimation of his sovereign, he -carefully observed the customs and manners of all the various tribes -among whom he resided, and drew up a concise account of the whole in -writing, which, together with a description of the new and curious -objects he had beheld, he presented to the khan on his return. This, as -he foresaw, greatly contributed to increase the favour of the prince -towards him; and he continued to rise gradually from one degree of honour -to another, until at length it may be doubted whether any individual in -the empire enjoyed a larger portion of Kublai’s affection and esteem. -Upon various occasions, sometimes upon the khan’s business, sometimes -upon his own, he traversed all the territories and dependencies of -the empire, everywhere possessing the means of observing whatever he -considered worth notice, his authority and the imperial favour opening -the most secluded and sacred places to his scrutiny. - -As our traveller has not thought proper, however, to describe these -various journeys chronologically, or, indeed, to determine with any -degree of exactness when any one of them took place, we are at liberty, -in recording his peregrinations, to adopt whatever arrangement we please; -and it being indisputable that Northern China was the first part of -Kublai’s dominions, properly so called, which he entered, it appears most -rational to commence the history of his Chinese travels with an outline -of what he saw in that division of the empire. - -The khan himself, whose profuse munificence enabled Marco Polo to perform -with pleasure and comfort his long and numerous expeditions, was a fine -handsome man of middle stature, with a fresh complexion, bright black -eyes, a well-formed nose, and a form every way well proportioned. He -had four wives, each of whom had the title of empress, and possessed -her own magnificent palace, with a separate court, consisting of -three hundred maids of honour, a large number of eunuchs, and a suite -amounting at least to ten thousand persons. He, moreover, possessed a -numerous harem besides his wives; and in order to keep up a constant -supply of fresh beauties, messengers were despatched every two years -into a province of Tartary remarkable for the beauty of its women, and -therefore set apart as a nursery for royal concubines, to collect the -finest among the daughters of the land for the khan. As the inhabitants -of this country considered it an honour to breed mistresses for their -prince, the “elegans formarum spectator” had no difficulty in finding -whatever number of young women he desired, and generally returned to -court with at least five hundred in his charge. So vast an army of women -were not, however, marched all at once into the khan’s harem. Examiners -were appointed to fan away the chaff from the corn,—that is, to discover -whether any of these fair damsels snored in their sleep, had an unsavoury -smell, or were addicted to any mischievous or disagreeable tricks in -their behaviour. Such, says the traveller, as were finally approved were -divided into parties of five, and one such party attended in the chamber -of the khan during three days and three nights in their turn, while -another party waited in an adjoining apartment to prepare whatever the -others might command them. The girls of inferior charms were employed in -menial offices about the palace, or were bestowed in marriage, with large -portions, upon the favoured officers of the khan. - -The number of the khan’s family, though not altogether answerable to this -vast establishment of women, was respectable,—consisting of forty-seven -sons, of whom twenty-two were by his wives, and all employed in offices -of trust and honour in the empire. Of the number of his daughters we are -not informed. - -The imperial city of Cambalu, the modern Peking, formed the residence -of the khan during the months of December, January, and February. The -palace of Kublai stood in the midst of a prodigious park, thirty-two -miles in circumference, surrounded by a lofty wall and deep ditch. -This enclosure, like all Mongol works of the kind, was square, and each -of its four sides was pierced by but one gate, so that between gate -and gate there was a distance of eight miles. Within this vast square -stood another, twenty-four miles in circumference, the walls being -equidistant from those of the outer square, and pierced on the northern -and southern sides by three gates, of which the centre one, loftier and -more magnificent than the rest, was reserved for the khan alone. At the -four corners, and in the centre of each face of the inner square, were -superb and spacious buildings, which were royal arsenals for containing -the implements and machinery of war, such as horse-trappings, long and -crossbows and arrows, helmets, cuirasses, leather armour, &c. Marco Polo -makes no mention of artillery or of firearms of any kind, from which it -may be fairly inferred that the use of gunpowder, notwithstanding the -vain pretensions of the modern Chinese, was unknown to their ancestors -of the thirteenth century; for it is inconceivable that so intelligent -and observant a traveller as Marco Polo should have omitted all mention -of so stupendous an invention, had it in his age been known either to -the Chinese or their conquerors. Indeed, though certainly superior in -civilization and the arts of life to the nations of Europe, they appear -to have been altogether inferior in the science of destruction; for -when Sian-fu had for three years checked the arms of Kublai Khan in his -conquest of Southern China, the Tartars were compelled to have recourse -to the ingenuity of Nicolo and Maffio Polo, who, constructing immense -catapults capable of casting stones of three hundred pounds’ weight, -enabled them, by battering down the houses and shaking the walls as with -an earthquake, to terrify the inhabitants into submission. - -To return, however, to the description of the palace. The space between -the first and second walls was bare and level, and appropriated to -the exercising of the troops. But having passed the second wall, you -discovered an immense park, resembling the paradises of the ancient -Persian kings, stretching away on all sides into green lawns, dotted and -broken into long sunny vistas or embowered shades by numerous groves -of trees, between the rich and various foliage of which the glittering -pinnacles and snow-white battlements of the palace walls appeared at -intervals. The palace itself was a mile in length, but, not being of -corresponding height, had rather the appearance of a vast terrace or -range of buildings than of one structure. Its interior was divided into -numerous apartments, some of which were of prodigious dimensions and -splendidly ornamented; the walls being covered with figures of men, -birds, and animals in exquisite relief and richly gilt. A labyrinth of -carving, gilding, and the most brilliant colours, red, green, and blue, -supplied the place of a ceiling; and the united effect of the whole -oppressed the soul with a sense of painful splendour. On the north of -this poetical abode, which rivalled in vastness and magnificence the -Olympic domes of Homer, stood an artificial hill, a mile in circumference -and of corresponding height, which was skilfully planted with evergreen -trees, which the Great Khan had caused to be brought from remote places, -with all their roots, on the backs of elephants. At the foot of this hill -were two beautiful lakes imbosomed in trees, and filled with a multitude -of delicate fish. - -That portion of the imperial city which had been erected by Kublai Khan -was square, like his palace. It was less extensive, however, than the -royal grounds, being only twenty-four miles in circumference. The streets -were all straight, and six miles in length, and the houses were erected -on each side, with courts and gardens, like palaces. At a certain hour -of the night, a bell, like the curfew of the Normans, was sounded in the -city, after which it was not lawful for any person to go out of doors -unless upon the most urgent business; for example, to procure assistance -for a woman in labour; in which case, however, they were compelled to -carry torches before them, from which we may infer that the streets were -not lighted with lamps. Twelve extensive suburbs, inhabited by foreign -merchants and by tradespeople, and more populous than the city itself, -lay without the walls. - -The money current in China at this period was of a species of paper -fabricated from the middle bark of the mulberry-tree, and of a round -form. To counterfeit, or to refuse this money in payment, or to make use -of any other was a capital offence. The use of this money, which within -the empire was as good as any other instrument of exchange, enabled the -khan to amass incredible quantities of the precious metals and of all the -other toys which delight civilized man. Great public roads, which may -be enumerated among the principal instruments of civilization, radiated -from Peking, or Cambalu, towards all the various provinces of the empire, -and by the enlightened and liberal regulations of the khan, not only -facilitated in a surprising manner the conveyance of intelligence, but -likewise afforded to travellers and merchants a safe and commodious -passage from one province to another. On each of these great roads were -inns at the distance of twenty-five or thirty miles, amply furnished with -chambers, beds, and provisions, and four hundred horses, of which one -half were constantly kept saddled in the stables, ready for use, while -the other moiety were grazing in the neighbouring fields. In deserts and -mountainous steril districts where there were no inhabitants, the khan -established colonies to cultivate the lands, where that was possible, and -provide provisions for the ambassadors and royal messengers who possessed -the privilege of using the imperial horses and the public tables. In the -night these messengers were lighted on their way by persons running -before them with torches; and when they approached a posthouse, of -which there were ten thousand in the empire, they sounded a horn, as -our mail and stage coaches do, to inform the inmates of their coming, -that no delay might be experienced. By this means, one of these couriers -sometimes travelled two hundred or two hundred and fifty miles in a day. -In desolate and uninhabited places, the courses of the roads were marked -by trees which had been planted for the purpose; and in places where -nothing would vegetate, by stones or pillars. - -The manners, customs, and opinions of the people, though apparently -considered by Marco Polo as less important than what regarded the -magnificence and greatness of the khan, commanded a considerable share -of our traveller’s attention. The religion of Buddha, whose mysterious -doctrines have eluded the grasp of the most comprehensive minds even up -to the present moment, he could not be expected to understand; but its -great leading tenets, the unity of the supreme God, the immortality of -the soul, the metempsychosis, and the final absorption of the virtuous -in the essence of the Divinity, are distinctly announced. The manners of -the Tartars were mild and refined; their temper cheerful; their character -honest. Filial affection was assiduously cultivated, and such as were -wanting in this virtue were condemned to severe punishment by the laws. -Three years’ imprisonment was the usual punishment for heinous offences; -but the criminals were marked upon the cheek when set at liberty, that -they might be known and avoided. - -Agriculture has always commanded a large share of the attention of the -Chinese. The whole country for many days’ journey west of Cambalu was -covered with a numerous population, distinguished for their ingenuity and -industry. Towns and cities were numerous, the fields richly cultivated, -and interspersed with vineyards or plantations of mulberry-trees. On -approaching the banks of the Hoang-ho, which was so broad and deep that -no bridges could be thrown over it from the latitude of Cambalu to the -ocean, the fields abounded with ginger and silk; and game, particularly -pheasants, were so abundant, that three of these beautiful birds might -be purchased for a Venetian groat. The margin of the river was clothed -with large forests of bamboos, the largest, tallest, and most useful of -the cane species. Crossing the Hoang-ho, and proceeding for two days in -a westerly direction, you arrived at the city of Karianfu, situated in -a country fertile in various kinds of spices, and remarkable for its -manufactories of silk and cloth of gold. - -This appears to have been the route pursued by Marco Polo when proceeding -as the emperor’s ambassador into Western Tibet. Having travelled for ten -days through plains of surpassing beauty and fertility, thickly sprinkled -with cities, castles, towns, and villages, shaded by vast plantations -of mulberry-trees, and cultivated like a garden, he arrived in the -mountainous district of the province of Chunchian, which abounded with -lions, bears, stags, roebucks, and wolves. The country through which his -route now lay was an agreeable succession of hill, valley, and plain, -adorned and improved by art, or reluctantly abandoned to the rude but -sublime fantasies of nature. - -On entering Tibet, indelible traces of the footsteps of war everywhere -smote upon his eye. The whole country had been reduced by the armies of -the khan to a desert; the city, the cheerful village, the gilded and -gay-looking pagoda, the pleasant homestead, and the humble and secluded -cottage, having been overthrown, and their smoking ruins trampled in the -dust, had now been succeeded by interminable forests of swift-growing -bamboos, from between whose thick and knotty stems the lion, the -tiger, and other ferocious animals rushed out suddenly upon the unwary -traveller. Not a soul appeared to cheer the eye, or offer provisions for -money. All around was stillness and utter desolation. And at night, when -they desired to taste a little repose, it was necessary to kindle an -immense fire, and heap upon it large quantities of green reeds, which, -by the crackling and hissing noise which they made in burning, might -frighten away the wild beasts. - -This pestilential desert occupied him twenty days in crossing, after -which human dwellings, and other signs of life, appeared. The manners of -the people among whom he now found himself were remarkably obscene and -preposterous. Improving upon the superstitious libertinism of the ancient -Babylonians, who sacrificed the modesty of their wives and daughters in -the temple of Astarte once in their lives, these Tibetians invariably -prostituted their young women to all strangers and travellers who passed -through their country, and made it a point of honour never to marry -a woman until she could exhibit numerous tokens of her incontinence. -Thieving, like want of chastity, was among them no crime; and, although -they had begun to cultivate the earth, they still derived their principal -means of subsistence from the chase. Their clothing was suitable to their -manners, consisting of the skins of wild beasts, or of a kind of coarse -hempen garment, less comfortable, perhaps, and still more uncouth to -sight. Though subject to China, as it is to this day, the paper money, -current through all other parts of the empire, was not in use here; nor -had they any better instrument of exchange than small pieces of coral, -though their mountains abounded with mines of the precious metals, while -gold was rolled down among mud and pebbles through the beds of their -torrents. Necklaces of coral adorned the persons of their women and their -gods, their earthly and heavenly idols being apparently rated at the -same value. In hunting, enormous dogs, nearly the size of asses, were -employed. - -Still proceeding towards the west, he traversed the province of Kaindu, -formerly an independent kingdom, in which there was an extensive -salt-lake, so profusely abounding with white pearls, that to prevent -their price from being immoderately reduced, it was forbidden, under pain -of death, to fish for them without a license from the Great Khan. The -turquoise mines found in this province were under the same regulations. -The _gadderi_, or musk deer, was found here in great numbers, as were -likewise lions, bears, stags, ounces, deer, and roebucks. The clove, -extremely plentiful in Kaindu, was gathered from small trees not unlike -the bay-tree in growth and leaves, though somewhat longer and straighter: -its flowers were white, like those of the jasmin. Here manners were -regulated by nearly the same principles as in the foregoing province, -strangers assuming the rights of husbands in whatever houses they rested -on their journey. Unstamped gold, issued by weight, and small solid -loaves of salt, marked with the seal of the khan, were the current money. - -Traversing the province of Keraian, of which little is said, except that -its inhabitants were pagans, and spoke a very difficult language, our -traveller next arrived at the city of Lassa, situated on the Dom or Tama -river, a branch of the Bramahpootra. This celebrated and extensive city, -the residence of the Dalai, or Great Lama, worshipped by the natives as -an incarnation of the godhead, was then the resort of numerous merchants, -and the centre of an active and widely-diffused commerce. Complete -religious toleration prevailed, pagans, Mohammedans, and Christians -dwelling together apparently in harmony; the followers of the established -religion, a modification of Buddhism, being however by far the most -numerous. Though corn was here plentiful, the inhabitants made no use -of any other bread than that of rice, which they considered the most -wholesome; and their wine, which was flavoured with several kinds of -spices, and exceedingly pleasant, they likewise manufactured from the -same grain. Cowries seem to have been used for money. The inhabitants, -like the Abyssinians, ate the flesh of the ox, the buffalo, and the sheep -raw, though they do not appear to have cut their steaks from the living -animals. Here, as elsewhere in Tibet, women were subjected, under certain -conditions, to the embraces of strangers. - -From Lassa, Marco Polo proceeded to the province of Korazan, where veins -of solid gold were found in the mountains, and washed down to the plains -by the waters of the rivers. Cowries were here the ordinary currency. -Among the usual articles of food was the flesh of the crocodile, which -was said to be very delicate. The inhabitants carried on an active -trade in horses with India. In their wars they made use of targets and -other defensive armour, manufactured, like the shields of many of the -Homeric heroes, from tough bull or buffalo hide. Their arms consisted -of lances or spears, and crossbows, from which, like genuine savages, -they darted poisonous arrows at their foes. When taken prisoners, they -frequently escaped from the evils of servitude by self-slaughter, -always bearing about their persons, like Mithridates and Demosthenes, a -concealed poison, by which they could at any time open themselves a way -to Pluto. Previous to the Mongol conquests, these reckless savages were -in the habit of murdering in their sleep such strangers or travellers as -happened to pass through their country, from the superstitious belief, it -is said, that the good qualities of the dead would devolve upon those who -killed them, of which it must be confessed they stood in great need; and -perhaps from the better grounded conviction that they should thus, at -all events, become the undoubted heirs of their wealth. - -Journeying westward for five days our traveller arrived at the province -of Kardandan, where the current money were cowries brought from India, -and gold in ingots. Gold was here so plentiful that it was exchanged for -five times its weight in silver; and the inhabitants, who had probably -been subject to the toothache, were in the habit of covering their teeth -with thin plates of this precious metal, which, according to Marco, -were so nicely fitted that the teeth appeared to be of solid gold. The -practice of tattooing, which seems to have prevailed at one time or -other over the whole world, was in vogue here, men being esteemed in -proportion as their skins were more disfigured. Riding, hunting, and -martial exercises occupied the whole time of the men, while the women, -aided by the slaves who were purchased or taken in war, performed all -the domestic labours. Another strange custom, the cause and origin of -which, though it has prevailed in several parts of the world, is hidden -in obscurity, obtained here; when a woman had been delivered of a child, -she immediately quitted her bed, and having washed the infant, placed it -in the hands of her husband, who, lying down in her stead, personated the -sick person, nursed the child, and remained in bed six weeks, receiving -the visits and condolences of his friends and neighbours. Meanwhile the -woman bestirred herself, and performed her usual duties as if nothing -had happened. Marco Polo could discover nothing more of the religious -opinions of this people than that they worshipped the oldest man in their -family, probably as the representative of the generative principle of -nature. Broken, rugged, and stupendous mountains, no doubt the Himmalaya, -rendered this wild country nearly inaccessible to strangers, who were -further deterred by a report that a fatal miasma pervaded the air, -particularly in summer. The knowledge of letters had not penetrated into -this region, and all contracts and obligations were recorded by tallies -of wood, as small accounts are still kept in Normandy, and other rude -provinces of Europe. - -Ignorance, priestcraft, and magic being of one family, and thriving by -each other, are always found together. These savages, like Lear, had -thrown “physic to the dogs;” and when attacked by disease preferred -the priest or the magician to the doctor. The priests, hoping to drive -disease out of their neighbour’s body by admitting the Devil into their -own, repaired, when called upon, to the chamber of the sick person; and -there sung, danced, leaped, and raved, until a demon, in the language of -the initiated, or, in other words, weariness, seized upon them, when they -discontinued their violent gestures, and consented to be interrogated. -Their answer, of course, was, that the patient had offended some god, who -was to be propitiated with sacrifice, which consisted partly in offering -up a portion of the patient’s blood, not to the goddess Phlebotomy, as -with us, but to some member of the Olympian synod whose fame has not -reached posterity. In addition to this, a certain number of rams with -black heads were sacrificed, their blood sprinkled in the air for the -benefit of the gods, and a great number of candles having been lighted -up, and the house thoroughly perfumed with incense and wood of aloes, the -priests sat down with their wives and families to dinner; and if after -all this the sick man would persist in dying, it was no fault of theirs. -Destiny alone was to blame. - -The next journey which Marco Polo undertook, after his return from Tibet, -was into the kingdom of Mangi, or Southern China, subdued by the arms -of the khan in 1269. Fanfur, the monarch, who had reigned previous to -the irruption of the Mongols, is represented as a mild, beneficent, -and peaceful prince, intent upon maintaining justice and internal -tranquillity in his dominions; but wanting in energy, and neglectful -of the means of national defence. During the latter years of his reign -he had abandoned himself, like another Sardanapalus, to sensuality -and voluptuousness; though, when the storm of war burst upon him, he -exhibited far less magnanimity than that Assyrian Sybarite; flying -pusillanimously to his fleet with all his wealth, and relinquishing the -defence of the capital to his queen, who, as a woman, had nothing to fear -from the cruelty of the conqueror. A foolish story, no doubt invented -after the fall of the city, is said to have inspired the queen with -confidence, and encouraged her to resist the besiegers: the soothsayers, -or haruspices, had assured Fanfur, in the days of his prosperity, that no -man not possessing a hundred eyes should ever deprive him of his kingdom. -Learning, however, with dismay that the name of the Tartar general now -besieging the place signified “the Hundred-eyed,” she perceived the -fulfilment of the prediction, and surrendered up the city. Kublai Khan, -agreeably to the opinion of Fanfur, conducted himself liberally towards -the captive queen; who, being conveyed to Cambalu, was received and -treated in a manner suitable to her former dignity. The dwarf-minded -emperor died about a year after, a fugitive and a vagabond upon the earth. - -The capital of Southern China, called Quinsai, or Kinsai, by Marco -Polo, a name signifying the “Celestial City,” was a place of prodigious -magnitude, being, according to the reports of the Chinese, not less than -one hundred miles in circumference. This rough estimate of the extent of -Kinsai, though beyond doubt considerably exaggerated, is after all not so -very incredible as may at first appear. Within this circumference, if the -place was constructed after the usual fashion of a Chinese city, would be -included parks and gardens of immense extent, vast open spaces for the -evolutions of the troops, besides the ten market-places, each two miles -in circumference, mentioned by Marco Polo, and many other large spaces -not covered with houses. By these means Kinsai might have been nearly -one hundred miles in circuit, without approaching London in riches or -population. That modern travellers have found no trace of such amazing -extent in Hang-chen, Kua-hing, or whatever city they determine Kinsai -to have been, by no means invalidates the assertion of Marco Polo; for -considering the revolutions which China has undergone, and the perishable -materials of the ordinary dwellings of its inhabitants, we may look upon -the space of nearly six hundred years as more than sufficient to have -changed the site of Kinsai into a desert. Were the seat of government to -be removed from Calcutta to Agra or Delhi, the revolution of one century -would reduce that “City of Palaces,” to a miserable village, or wholly -bury it in the pestilential bog from which its sumptuous but perishable -edifices originally rose like an exhalation. - -I will suppose, therefore, in spite of geographical skepticism, that -Kinsai fell very little short of the magnitude which the Chinese, not -Marco Polo, attributed to it. The city was nearly surrounded by water, -having on one side a great river, and on the other side a lake, while -innumerable canals, intersecting it in all directions, rendered the -very streets navigable, as it were, like those of Venice, and floated -away all filth into the channel of the river. Twelve thousand bridges, -great and small, were thrown over these canals, beneath which barks, -boats, and barges, bearing a numerous aquatic population, continually -passed to and fro; while horsemen dashed along, and chariots rolled from -street to street, above. Three days in every week the peasantry from -all the country round poured into the city, to the number of forty or -fifty thousand, bringing in the productions of the earth, with cattle, -fowls, game, and every species of provision necessary for the subsistence -of so mighty a population. Though provisions were so cheap, however, -that two geese, or four ducks, might be purchased for a Venetian groat, -the poor were reduced to so miserable a state of wretchedness that -they gladly devoured the flesh of the most unclean animals, and every -species of disgusting offal. The markets were supplied with an abundance -of most kinds of fruit, among which a pear of peculiar fragrance, and -white and gold peaches, were the most exquisite. Raisins and wine were -imported from other provinces; but from the ocean, which was no more than -twenty-five miles distant, so great a profusion of fish was brought, -that, at first sight, it seemed as if it could never be consumed, though -it all disappeared in a few hours. - -Around the immense market-places were the shops of the jewellers and -spice-merchants; and in the adjoining streets were numerous hot and cold -baths, with all the apparatus which belong to those establishments in -eastern countries. These places, as the inhabitants bathed every day, -were well frequented, and the attendants accustomed to the business from -their childhood exceedingly skilful in the performance of their duties. -A trait which marks the voluptuous temperament of the Chinese occurs in -the account of this city. An incredible number of courtesans, splendidly -attired, perfumed, and living with a large establishment of servants in -spacious and magnificent houses, were found at Kinsai; and, like their -sisters in ancient Greece, were skilled in all those arts which captivate -and enslave enervated minds. The tradesmen possessed great wealth, and -appeared in their shops sumptuously dressed in silks, in addition to -which their wives adorned themselves with costly jewels. Their houses -were well built, and contained pictures and other ornaments of immense -value. In their dealings they were remarkable for their integrity, and -great suavity and decorum appeared in their manners. Notwithstanding the -gentleness of their disposition, however, their hatred of their Mongol -conquerors, who had deprived them of their independence and the more -congenial rule of their native princes, was not to be disguised. - -All the streets were paved with stone, while the centre was macadamized, -a mark of civilization not yet to be found in Paris, or many other -European capitals, any more than the cleanliness which accompanied it. -Hackney-coaches with silk cushions, public gardens, and shady walks were -among the luxuries of the people of Kinsai; while, as Mr. Kerr very -sensibly remarks, the delights of European capitals were processions of -monks among perpetual dunghills in narrow crooked lanes. Still, in the -midst of all this wealth and luxury, poverty and tremendous suffering -existed, compelling parents to sell their children, and when no buyers -appeared, to expose them to death. Twenty thousand infants thus deserted -were annually snatched from destruction by the Emperor Fanfur, and -maintained and educated until they could provide for themselves. - -Marco Polo’s opportunities for studying the customs and manners of this -part of the empire were such as no other European has ever enjoyed, -as, through the peculiar affection of the Great Khan, he was appointed -governor of one of its principal cities, and exercised this authority -during three years. Yet, strange to say, he makes no mention of tea, -and alludes only once, and that but slightly, to the manufacture of -porcelain. These omissions, however, are in all probability not to be -attributed to him, but to the heedlessness or ignorance of transcribers -and copyists, who, not knowing what to make of the terms, boldly omitted -them. The most remarkable manufacture of porcelain in his time appears -to have been at a city which he calls Trinqui, situated on one branch of -the river which flowed to Zaitum, supposed to be the modern Canton. Here -he was informed a certain kind of earth or clay was thrown up into vast -conical heaps, where it remained exposed to the action of the atmosphere -for thirty or forty years, after which, refined, as he says, by time, it -was manufactured into dishes, which were painted and baked in furnaces. - -Having now remained many years in China, the Polos began to feel the -desire of revisiting their home revive within their souls; and this -desire was strengthened by reflecting upon the great age of the khan, -in the event of whose death it was possible they might never be able to -depart from the country, at least with the amazing wealth which they -had amassed during their long residence. One day, therefore, when they -observed Kublai to be in a remarkably good-humour, Nicolo, who seems -to have enjoyed a very free access to the chamber of the sovereign, -ventured to entreat permission to return home with his family. The khan, -however, who, being himself at home, could comprehend nothing of that -secret and almost mysterious power by which man is drawn back from the -remotest corners of the earth towards the scene of his childhood, and -who, perhaps, imagined that gold could confer irresistible charms upon -any country, was extremely displeased at the request. He had, in fact, -become attached to the men, and his unwillingness to part with them was -as natural as their desire to go. To turn them from all thoughts of the -undertaking, he dwelt upon the length and danger of the journey; and -added, that if more wealth was what they coveted, they had but to speak, -and he would gratify their utmost wishes, by bestowing upon them twice as -much as they already possessed; but that his affection would not allow -him to part with them. - -Providence, however, which under the name of chance or accident so -frequently befriends the perplexed, now came to their aid. Not long -after the unsuccessful application of Nicolo, ambassadors arrived at -the court of the Great Khan, from Argûn, Sultan of Persia, demanding -a princess of the imperial blood for their master, whose late queen -on her deathbed had requested him to choose a wife from among her -relations in Cathay. Kublai consented; and the ambassadors departed with -a youthful princess on their way to Persia. When they had proceeded -eight months through the wilds of Tartary, their course was stopped by -bloody wars; and they were constrained to return with the princess to -the court of the khan. Here they heard of Marco, who had likewise just -returned from an expedition into India by sea, describing the facility -which navigation afforded of maintaining an intercourse between that -country and China. The ambassadors now procured an interview with -the Venetians, who consented, if the permission of the khan could be -obtained, to conduct them by sea to the dominions of their sovereign. -With great reluctance the khan at length yielded to their solicitation; -and having commanded Nicolo, Maffio, and Marco into his presence, and -lavished upon them every possible token of his affection and esteem, -constituting them his ambassadors to the pope and the other princes of -Europe, he caused a tablet of gold to be delivered to them, upon which -were engraven his commands that they should be allowed free and secure -passage through all his dominions; that all their expenses, as well as -those of their attendants, should be defrayed; and that they should be -provided with guides and escorts wherever these might be necessary. He -then exacted from them a promise that when they should have passed some -time in Christendom among their friends, they would return to him, and -affectionately dismissed them. - -Fourteen ships with four masts, of which four or five were so large that -they carried from two hundred and fifty to two hundred and sixty men, -were provided for their voyage; and on board of this fleet they embarked -with the queen and the ambassadors, and sailed away from China. It was -probably from the officers of these ships, or from those with whom he -had made his former voyage to India, that Marco Polo learned what little -he knew of the great island of Zipangri or Japan. It was about fifteen -hundred miles distant, as he was informed, from the shores of China. The -people were fair, gentle in their manners, and governed by their own -princes. Gold, its exportation being prohibited, was plentiful among -them; so plentiful, indeed, that the roof of the prince’s palace was -covered with it, as churches in Europe sometimes are with lead, while the -windows and floors were of the same metal. The prodigious opulence of -this country tempted the ambition or rapacity of Kublai Khan, who with a -vast fleet and army attempted to annex it with his empire, but without -success. It was Marco’s brief description of this insular El Dorado which -is supposed to have kindled the spirit of discovery and adventure in -the great soul of Columbus. Gentle as the manners of the Japanese are -said to have been, neither they nor the Chinese themselves could escape -the charge of cannibalism, which appears to be among barbarians what -heresy was in Europe during the middle ages, the crime of which every one -accuses his bitterest enemy. The innumerable islands scattered through -the surrounding ocean were said to abound with spices and groves of -odoriferous wood. - -The vast islands and thickly-sprinkled archipelagoes which rear up -their verdant and scented heads among the waters of the Indian ocean, -now successively presented themselves to the observant eye of our -traveller, and appeared like another world. Ziambar, with its woods -of ebony; Borneo, with its spices and its gold; Lokak, with its sweet -fruits, its Brazil wood, and its elephants;—these were the new and -strange countries at which they touched on the way to Java the less, -or Sumatra. This island, which he describes as two thousand miles in -circumference, was divided into eight kingdoms, six of which he visited -and curiously examined. Some portion of the inhabitants had been -converted to Mohammedanism; but numerous tribes still roamed in a savage -state among the mountains, feeding upon human flesh and every unclean -animal, and worshipping as a god the first object which met their eyes -in the morning. Among one of these wild races a very extraordinary -practice prevailed: whenever any individual was stricken with sickness, -his relations immediately inquired of the priests or magicians whether -he would recover or not; and if answered in the negative, the patient -was instantly strangled, cut in pieces, and devoured, even to the very -marrow of the bones. This, they alleged, was to prevent the generation -of worms in any portion of the body, which, by gnawing and defacing it, -would torture the soul of the dead. The bones were carefully concealed in -the caves of the mountains. Strangers, from the same humane motive, were -eaten in an equally friendly way. - -Here were numerous rhinoceroses, camphor, which sold for its weight in -gold, and lofty trees, ten or twelve feet in circumference, from the -pith of which a kind of meal was made. This pith, having been broken -into pieces, was cast into vessels filled with water, where the light -innutritious parts floated upon the top, while the finer and more solid -descended to the bottom. The former was skimmed off and thrown away, but -the latter, in taste not unlike barley-bread, was wrought into a kind of -paste, and eaten. This was the sago, the first specimen of which ever -seen in Europe was brought to Venice by Marco Polo. The wood of the tree, -which was heavy and sunk in water like iron, was used in making spears. - -From Sumatra they sailed to the Nicobar and Andaman islands, the natives -of which were naked and bestial savages, though the country produced -excellent cloves, cocoanuts, Brazil wood, red and white sandal wood, and -various kinds of spices. They next touched at Ceylon, which appeared to -Marco Polo, and not altogether without reason, to be the finest island in -the world. Here no grain, except rice, was cultivated; but the country -produced a profusion of oil, sesamum, milk, flesh, palm wine, sapphires, -topazes, amethysts, and the best rubies in the world. Of this last kind -of gem the King of Ceylon was said to possess the finest specimen in -existence, the stone being as long as a man’s hand, of corresponding -thickness, and glowing like fire. The wonders of Adam’s Peak Marco -Polo heard of, but did not behold. His account of the pearl-fishery he -likewise framed from report. - -From Ceylon they proceeded towards the Persian Gulf, touching in their -way upon the coast of the Carnatic, where Marco learned some particulars -respecting the Hindoos; as, that they were an unwarlike people, who -imported horses from Ormus, and generally abstained from beef; that their -rich men were carried about in palankeens; and that from motives of the -origin of which he was ignorant, every man carefully preserved his own -drinking-vessels from the touch of another. - -At length, after a voyage of eighteen months, they arrived in the -dominions of Argûn, but found that that prince was dead, the heir to the -throne a minor, and the functions of government exercised by a regent. -They delivered the princess, who was now nearly nineteen, to Kazan, the -son of Argûn; and having been magnificently entertained for nine months -by the regent, who presented them at parting with four tablets of gold, -each a cubit long and five fingers broad, they continued their journey -through Kurdistan and Mingrelia, to Trebizond, where they embarked upon -the Black Sea; and, sailing down the Bosphorus and Dardanelles, crossed -the Ægean, touched at Negropont, and arrived safely at Venice, in the -year 1295. - -On repairing to their own house, however, in the street of St. -Chrysostom, they had the mortification to find themselves entirely -forgotten by all their old acquaintance and countrymen; and even their -nearest relations, who upon report of their death had taken possession of -their palace, either could not or would not recognise them. Forty-five -years had no doubt operated strange changes in the persons of Nicolo -and Maffio; and even Marco, who had left his home in the flower of -his youth, and now returned after an absence of twenty-four years, a -middle-aged man, storm-beaten, and bronzed by the force of tropical -suns, must have been greatly altered. Besides, they had partly forgotten -their native language, which they pronounced with a barbarous accent, -intermingling Tartar words, and setting the rules of syntax at defiance. -Their dress, air, and demeanour, likewise, were Tartarian. To convince -the incredulous, however, and prove their identity, they invited all -their relations and old associates to a magnificent entertainment, at -which the three travellers appeared attired in rich eastern habits of -crimson satin. When all the guests were seated, the Polos put off their -satin garments, which they bestowed upon the attendants, still appearing -superbly dressed in robes of crimson damask. At the removal of the last -course but one of the entertainment, they distributed their damask -garments also upon the attendants, these having merely concealed far -more magnificent robes of crimson velvet. When dinner was over, and the -attendants had withdrawn, Marco Polo exhibited to the company the coats -of coarse Tartarian cloth, or felt, which his father, his uncle, and -himself had usually worn during their travels. These he now cut open, -and from their folds and linings took out so prodigious a quantity of -rubies, sapphires, emeralds, carbuncles, and diamonds, that the company, -amazed and delighted with the beauty and splendour of these magnificent -and invaluable gems, no longer hesitated to acknowledge the claims of the -Polos, who, by the same arguments, might have proved their identity with -Prester John and his family. - -The news of their arrival now rapidly circulated through Venice, and -crowds of persons of all ranks, attracted, partly by their immense -wealth, partly by the strangeness of their recitals, flocked to their -palace to see and congratulate them upon their return. The whole family -was universally treated with distinction, and Maffio, the elder of -the brothers, became one of the principal magistrates of the city. -Marco, as being the youngest, and probably the most communicative of -the three, was earnestly sought after by the young noblemen of Venice, -whom he entertained and astonished by his descriptions of the strange -and marvellous things he had beheld; and as in speaking of the subjects -and revenues of the Great Khan he was frequently compelled to count by -millions, he obtained among his companions the name of _Marco Millione_. -In the time of Ramusio the Polo palace still existed in the street of -St. Chrysostom, and was popularly known by the name of the _Corte del -Millioni_. Some writers, however, have supposed that this surname was -bestowed on the Polos on account of their extraordinary riches. - -Marco Polo had not been many months at Venice before the news arrived -that a Genoese fleet, under the command of Lampa Doria, had appeared near -the island of Curzola, on the coast of Dalmatia. The republic, alarmed -at the intelligence, immediately sent out a numerous fleet against the -enemy, in which Marco Polo, as an experienced mariner, was intrusted with -the command of a galley. The two fleets soon came to an engagement, when -Marco, with that intrepid courage which had carried him safely through -so many dangers, advanced with his galley before the rest of the fleet, -with the design of breaking the enemy’s squadron. The Venetians, however, -who were quickly defeated, wanted the energy to second his boldness; and -Marco, who had been wounded in the engagement, was taken prisoner and -carried to Genoa. - -Here, as at Venice, the extraordinary nature of his adventures, the -_naïveté_ of his descriptions, and the amiableness of his character soon -gained him friends, who not only delighted in his conversation, but -exerted all their powers to soften the rigours of his captivity. Day -after day new auditors flocked around this new Ulysses, anxious to hear -from his own lips an account of the magnificence and grandeur of Kublai -Khan, and of the vast empire of the Mongols. Wearied at length, however, -with for ever repeating the same things, he determined, in pursuance of -the advice of his new friends, to write the history of his travels; and -sending to Venice for the original notes which he had made while in the -East, compiled or dictated the brief work which has immortalized his -memory. The work was completed in the year 1298, when it may also be said -to have been published, as numerous copies were made and circulated. - -Meanwhile, his father and uncle, who had hitherto looked to Marco for -the continuation of the Polo family, and who had vainly endeavoured by -the offer of large sums of money to redeem him from captivity, began -to deliberate upon the course which they ought to adopt under the -present circumstances; and it was resolved that Nicolo, the younger -and more vigorous of the two, should himself marry. Four years after -this marriage, Marco was set at liberty at the intercession of the most -illustrious citizens of Genoa; but on returning to Venice he found that -three new members had been added to the Polo family during his absence, -his father having had so many sons by his young wife. Marco continued, -however, to live in the greatest harmony and happiness with his new -relations; and shortly afterward marrying himself, had two daughters, -Maretta and Fantina, but no sons. Upon the death of his father, Marco -erected a monument to his memory in the portico of the church of St. -Lorenzo, with an inscription stating that it was built in honour of the -traveller’s father. Neither the exact date of his father’s death nor -of his own has hitherto been ascertained; but it is supposed that our -illustrious traveller’s decease took place either in the year 1323 or -1324. According to Mr. Marsden’s opinion, he was then seventy years of -age; but if we follow the opinion of the majority of writers, and of M. -Walkenaer among the rest, he must have attained the age of seventy-three -or seventy-four. The male line of the Polos became extinct in 1417, and -the only surviving female was married to a member of the noble house of -Trevisino, one of the most illustrious in Venice. - -When the travels of Marco Polo first appeared, they were generally -regarded as a fiction; and this absurd belief had so far gained ground, -that when he lay upon his deathbed, his friends and nearest relatives, -coming to take their eternal adieu, conjured him, as he valued the -salvation of his soul, to retract whatever he had advanced in his -book, or at least such passages as every person looked upon as untrue; -but the traveller, whose conscience was untroubled upon that score, -declared solemnly in that awful moment, that far from being guilty of -exaggeration, he had not described one-half of the wonderful things -which he had beheld. Such was the reception which the discoveries of -this extraordinary man experienced when first promulgated. By degrees, -however, as enterprise lifted more and more the veil from central and -eastern Asia, the relations of our traveller rose in the estimation -of geographers; and now that the world, though still containing many -unknown tracts, has been more successfully explored, we begin to perceive -that Marco Polo, like Herodotus, was a man of the most rigid veracity, -whose testimony presumptuous ignorance alone can call in question. - -To relate the history of our traveller’s work since its first publication -would be a long and a dry task. It was translated during his lifetime -into Latin (for the opinion of Ramusio that it was originally composed -in that language seems to be absurd), as well as into several modern -languages of Europe; and as many of those versions were made, according -to tradition, under the author’s own direction, he is thought to have -inserted some numerous particulars which were wanting in others; and in -this way the variations of the different manuscripts are accounted for. -The number of the translations of Marco Polo is extraordinary; one in -Portuguese, two in Spanish, three in German, three in French, three or -four in Latin, one in Dutch, and seven in English. Of all these numerous -versions, that of Mr. Marsden is generally allowed to be incomparably -the best, whether the correctness of the text or the extent, riches, and -variety of the commentary be considered. - - - - -IBN BATŪTA. - -Born about 1300.—Died after 1353. - - -This traveller, whose name and works were little known in Europe before -the publication of Professor Lee’s translation, was born at Tangiers, -in Northern Africa, about the year 1300. He appeared to be designed by -nature to be a great traveller. Romantic in his disposition, a great -lover of the marvellous, and possessing a sufficient dash of superstition -in his character to enable him everywhere to discover omens favourable -to his wishes, the slightest motives sufficed to induce him to undertake -at a day’s notice the most prodigious journeys, though he could reckon -upon deriving from them nothing but the pleasure of seeing strange -sights, or of believing that he was fulfilling thereby the secret -intentions of Providence respecting him. - -Being by profession one of those theologians who in those times were -freely received and entertained by princes and the great in all -Mohammedan countries, he could apprehend no danger of wanting the -necessaries of life, and had before him at least the chance, if not -the certain prospect, of being raised for his learning and experience -to some post of distinction. The first step in the adventures of all -Mohammedan travellers is, of course, the pilgrimage to Mecca, as this -journey confers upon them a kind of sacred character, and the title of -Hajjî, which is a passport generally respected in all the territories of -Islamism. - -Ibn Batūta left his native city of Tangiers for the purpose of performing -the pilgrimage in the year of the Hejira 725 (A. D. 1324-5). Traversing -the Barbary States and the whole breadth of Northern Africa, probably -in company with the great Mogrebine caravan which annually leaves those -countries for Mecca, he arrived without meeting with any remarkable -adventure in Egypt, where, according to the original design of his -travels, he employed his time in visiting the numerous saints and -workers of miracles with which that celebrated land abounded in those -days. Among the most distinguished of these men then in Alexandria was -the Imam Borhaneddin el Aaraj. Our traveller one day visiting this man, -“Batūta,” said he, “I perceive that the passion of exploring the various -countries of the earth hath seized upon thee!”—“I replied, Yes,” says -the traveller, “though I had at that time no intention of extending my -researches to very distant regions.”—“I have three brothers,” continued -the saint, “of whom there is one in India, another in Sindia, and -the third in China. You must visit those realms, and when you see my -brothers, inform them that they are still affectionately remembered by -Borhaneddin.”—“I was astonished at what he said,” observes Batūta, “and -determined within myself to accomplish his desires.” He in fact regarded -the expressions of this holy man as a manifestation of the will of Heaven. - -Having thus conceived the bold design of exploring the remotest countries -of the East, Ibn Batūta was impatient to be in motion; he therefore -abridged his visits to the saints, and proceeded on his journey. -Nevertheless, before his departure from this part of Egypt he had a -dream, which, being properly interpreted by a saint, greatly strengthened -him in his resolution. Falling asleep upon the roof of a hermit’s cell, -he imagined himself placed upon the wings of an immense bird, which, -rising high into the air, fled away towards the temple at Mecca. From -thence the bird proceeded towards Yarren, and, after taking a vast sweep -through the south and the regions of the rising sun, alighted safely -with his burden in the land of darkness, where he deposited it, and -disappeared. On the morrow the sage hermit interpreted this vision in -the sense most consonant with the wishes of the seer, and, presenting -our traveller with some dirhems and dried cakes, dismissed him on his -way. During the whole of his travels Ibn Batūta met with but one man who -equalled this hermit in sanctity and wisdom, and observes, that from the -very day on which he quitted him he experienced nothing but good fortune. - -At Damietta he saw the cell of the Sheïkh Jemaleddin, leader of the sect -of the Kalenders celebrated in the Arabian Nights, who shave their chins -and their eyebrows, and spend their whole lives in the contemplation -of the beatitude and perfection of God. Journeying onwards through the -cities and districts of Fariskūr, Ashmūn el Rommān, and Samānūd, he at -length arrived at Misz, or Cairo, where he appears to have first tasted -the pure waters of the Nile, which, in his opinion, excel those of all -other rivers in sweetness. - -Departing from Cairo, and entering Upper Egypt, he visited, among other -places, the celebrated monastery of Clay and the minyet of Ibn Khasib. -Upon the mention of this latter place, he takes occasion to relate an -anecdote of a poet, which, because it is in keeping with our notions of -what a man of genius should be, we shall here introduce. Ibn Khasib, -raised from a state of slavery to the government of Egypt, and again -reduced to beggary, and deprived of sight by the caprice and cruelty -of a calif of the house of Abbas, had while in power been a munificent -patron and protector of literary men. Hearing of his magnificence and -generosity, a poet of Bagdad had undertaken to celebrate his praises -in verse; but before he had had an opportunity of reciting his work, -Khasib was degraded from his high office, and thrown out in blindness and -beggary into the streets of Bagdad. While he was wandering about in this -condition, the poet, who must have known him personally, encountered him, -and exclaimed, “O, Khasib, it was my intention to visit thee in Egypt -to recite thy praises; but thy coming hither has rendered my journey -unnecessary. Wilt thou allow me to recite my poem?”—“How,” said Khasib, -“shall I hear it? Thou knowest what misfortunes have overtaken me!” -The poet replied, “My only wish is that thou shouldst hear it; but as -to reward, may God reward thee as thou hast others.” Khasib then said, -“Proceed with thy poem.” The poet proceeded:— - - “Thy bounties, like the swelling Nile, - Made the plains of Egypt smile,” &c. - -When he had concluded, “Come here,” said Khasib, “and open this seam.” -He did so. Khasib then said, “Take this ruby.” The poet refused; but -being adjured to do so, he complied, and went away to the street of the -jewellers to offer it for sale. From the beauty of the stone, it was -supposed it could have belonged to no one but the calif, who, being -informed of the matter, ordered the poet before him, and interrogated -him respecting it. The poet ingenuously related the whole truth; and the -tyrant, repenting of his cruelty, sent for Khasib, overwhelmed him with -splendid presents, and promised to grant him whatever he should desire. -Khasib demanded and obtained the small minyet in Upper Egypt in which -he resided until his death, and where his fame was still fresh when Ibn -Batūta passed through the country. - -Frustrated in his attempt to reach Mecca by this route, after penetrating -as far as Nubia, our traveller returned to Cairo, and from thence -proceeded by way of the Desert into Syria. Here, like every other -believer in the Hebrew Scriptures, he found himself in the midst of the -most hallowed associations; and strengthened at once his piety and his -enthusiasm by visiting the graves of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, as well -as the many spots rendered venerable by the footsteps of Mohammed. As -the believers in Islamism entertain a kind of religious respect for the -founder of Christianity, whom they regard as a great prophet, Batūta did -not fail to include Bethlehem, the birthplace of Christ, in the list of -those places he had to see. Upon this town, however, as well as upon -Jerusalem, Tyre, Sidon, and others of equal renown in Syria, he makes few -observations which can assist us in forming an idea of the state of the -country in those times; but in return for this meagerness, he relates -a very extraordinary story of an alchymist, who had discovered the -secret of making gold, and exercised his supernatural power in acts of -beneficence. - -From Syria he proceeded towards Mesopotamia, by Emessa, Hameh, and -Aleppo, and having traversed the country of the Kurds, and visited the -fortresses of the Assassins, the people who, as he says, “act as arrows -for El Malik el Nāisr,” returned to Mount Libanus, which he pronounces -the most fruitful mountain in the world, and describes as abounding in -various fruits, fountains of water, and leafy shades. He then visited -Baalbec and Damascus; and, after remaining a short time at the latter -city, departed with the Syrian caravan for Mecca. His attempt to perform -the pilgrimage, a duty incumbent on all true Mussulmans, was this time -successful: the caravan traversed the “howling wilderness” in safety; -arrived at the Holy City; and the pilgrims having duly performed the -prescribed rites, and spent three days near the tomb of the prophet, at -Medina, Ibn Batūta joined a caravan proceeding through the deserts of -Nejed towards Persia. - -The early part of this journey offered nothing which our traveller -thought worthy of remark; but he at length arrived at Kadisia, near Kufa, -anciently a great city, in the neighbourhood of which that decisive -victory was obtained by Saad, one of the generals of Omar, over the -Persians, which established the interests of Islamism, and overthrew -for ever the power of the Ghebers. He next reached the city of Meshed -Ali, a splendid and populous place, where the grave of Ali is supposed -to be. The inhabitants, of course, were Shiahs, but they were rich; and -Ibn Batūta, who was a tolerant man, thought them a brave people. The -gardens were surrounded by plastered walls, adorned with paintings, and -contained carpets, couches, and lamps of gold and silver. Within the city -was a rich treasury, maintained by the votive offerings of sick persons, -who then crowded, and still crowd, to the grave of Ali, from Room, -Khorasān, Irak, and other places, in the hope of receiving relief. These -people are placed over the grave a short time after sunset, while other -persons, some praying, others reciting the Koran, and others prostrating -themselves, attend expecting their recovery, and before it is quite dark -a miraculous cure takes place. Our traveller, from some cause or another, -was not present on any of these occasions, and remarks that he saw -several afflicted persons who, though they confidently looked forward to -future benefit had hitherto received none. - -The whole of that portion of Mesopotamia was at this period in the power -of the Bedouin Arabs, without whose protection there was no travelling -through the country. With them, therefore, Ibn Batūta proceeded from -Basra, towards various holy and celebrated places, among others to the -tomb of “My Lord Ahmed of Rephaā,” a famous devotee, whose disciples -still congregate about his grave, and kindling a prodigious fire, walk -into it, some eating it, others trampling upon it, and others rolling in -it, till it be entirely extinguished, while others take great serpents -in their teeth, and bite the head off. From hence he again returned -to Basra, the neighbourhood of which abounded with palm-trees. The -inhabitants were distinguished for their politeness and humanity towards -strangers. Here he saw the famous copy of the Koran in which Othman, the -son of Ali, was reading when he was assassinated, and on which the marks -of his blood were still visible. - -Embarking on board a small boat, called a sambūk, he descended the Tigris -to Abbadān, whence it was his intention to have proceeded to Bagdad; but, -adopting the advice of a friend at Basra, he sailed down the Persian -Gulf, and landing at Magul, crossed a plain inhabited by Kurds, and -arrived at a ridge of very high mountains. Over these he travelled during -three days, finding at every stage a cell with food for the accommodation -of travellers. The roads over these mountains were cut through the solid -rock. His travelling companions consisted of ten devotees, of whom one -was a priest, another a muezzin, and two professed readers of the Koran, -to all of whom the sultan of the country sent presents of money. - -In ten days they arrived in the territories of Ispahan, and remained -some days at the capital, a large and handsome city. From thence he -soon departed for Shiraz, which, though inferior to Damascus, was even -then an extensive and well-built city, remarkable for the beauty of its -streets, gardens, and waters. Its inhabitants likewise, and particularly -the women, were persons of integrity, religion, and virtue; but our -singular traveller remarks, that for his part he had no other object in -going thither than that of visiting the Sheïkh Majd Oddin, the paragon -of saints and workers of miracles! By this holy man he was received with -great kindness, of which he retained so grateful a remembrance, that on -returning home twenty years afterward from the remotest countries of the -east, he undertook a journey of five-and-thirty days for the mere purpose -of seeing his ancient host. - -The greater portion of the early life of Ibn Batūta was consumed in -visiting saints, or the birthplaces and tombs of saints: but his time was -not therefore misemployed; for, besides the positive pleasure which the -presence or sight of such objects appears to have generated in his own -mind, at every step he advanced in this sacred pilgrimage his personal -consequence, and his claims upon the veneration and hospitality of -princes and other great men, were increased. As he may be regarded as the -representative of a class of men extremely numerous in the early ages of -Islamism, and whose character and mode of life are highly illustrative -of the manners of those times, it is important to follow the footsteps -of our traveller in his whimsical wanderings a little more closely than -would otherwise be necessary. - -Proceeding, therefore, at the heels of the honest theologian, we next -find him at Kazerun, beholding devoutly the tomb of the Sheïkh Abu -Is-hāk, a saint held in high estimation throughout India and China, -especially by sailors, who, when tossed about by adverse or tempestuous -winds upon the ocean, make great vows to him, which, when safely landed, -they pay to the servants of his cell. From hence he proceeded through -various districts, many of which were desert and uninhabitable, to Kufa -and Hilla, whence, having visited the mosque of the twelfth imam, whose -readvent is still expected by his followers, he departed for Bagdad. -Here, as at Rome or Athens, the graves of great men abounded; so that -Ibn Batūta’s sympathies were every moment awakened, and apparently too -painfully; for, notwithstanding that it was one of the largest and most -celebrated cities in the world, he almost immediately quitted it with -Bahadar Khan, sultan of Irak, whom he accompanied for ten days on his -march towards Khorasān. Upon his signifying his desire to return, the -prince dismissed him with large presents and a dress of honour, together -with the means of performing the pilgrimage to Mecca, which, as an -incipient saint, he imagined he could not too frequently repeat. - -Finding, on his return to Bagdad, that a considerable time would elapse -before the departure of the caravan for the Holy City, he resolved to -employ the interval in traversing various portions of Mesopotamia, and -in visiting numerous cities which he had not hitherto seen. Among these -places the most remarkable were Samarā, celebrated in the history of -the Calif Vathek; Mousul, which is said to occupy the site of ancient -Nineveh; and Nisibēn, renowned throughout the east for the beauty of -its position, and the incomparable scent of the rose-water manufactured -there. He likewise spent some time at the city and mountain of Sinjar, -inhabited by that extraordinary Kurdish tribe who, according to the -testimony of several modern travellers, pay divine honours to the Devil. - -This little excursion being concluded, Batūta found the caravan in -readiness to set out for Mecca, and departing with it, and arriving safe -in the Holy City, he performed all the ceremonies and rites prescribed, -and remained there three years, subsisting upon the alms contributed by -the pious bounty of the inhabitants of Irak, and conveyed to Mecca by -caravans. His travelling fit now returning, he left the birthplace of the -prophet, and repairing to Jidda, proceeded with a company of merchants -towards Yemen by sea. After being driven by contrary winds to the coast -of Africa, and landing at Sūakin, he at length reached Yemen; in the -various cities and towns of which he was entertained with a hospitality -so generous and grateful that he seems never to be tired of dwelling on -their praises. He did not, however, remain long among his munificent -hosts, but, taking ship at Aden, passed over once more into Africa, and -landed at Zaila, a city of the Berbers. The inhabitants of this place, -though Mohammedans, were a rude, uncultivated people, living chiefly -upon fish and the flesh of camels, which are slaughtered in the streets, -where their blood and offals were left putrefying to infect the air. From -this stinking city he proceeded by sea to Makdasha, the Magadocia of -the Portuguese navigators; a very extensive place, where the hospitable -natives were wont, on the arrival of a ship, to come down in a body to -the seashore, and select each his guest from among the merchants.—When -a theologian or a nobleman happened to be among the passengers, he was -received and entertained by the kazi; and as Ibn Batūta belonged to the -former class he of course became the guest of this magistrate. Here he -remained a short time, passing his days in banqueting and pleasure; and -then returned to Arabia. - -During the stay he now made in this country he collected several -particulars respecting the trade and manners of the people, which are -neither trifling nor unimportant. The inhabitants of Zafār, the most -easterly city of Yemen, carried on at that period, he observes, a great -trade in horses with India, the voyage being performed in a month. The -practice he remarked among the same people of feeding their flocks and -herds with fish, and which, he says, he nowhere else observed, prevails, -however, up to the present day, among the nations of the Coromandel -coast, as well as in other parts of the east. At El Ahkāf, the city -of the tribe of Aād, there were numerous gardens, producing enormous -bananas, with the cocoanut and the betel. Our fanciful traveller -discovered a striking resemblance between the cocoanut and a man’s head, -observing that exteriorly there was something resembling eyes and a -mouth, and that when young the pulp within was like brains. To complete -the similitude, the hair was represented by the fibre, from which, he -remarks, cords for sewing together the planks of their vessels, as also -cordage and cables, were manufactured. The nut itself, according to him, -was highly nourishing, and, like the betel-leaf, a powerful aphrodisiac. - -Still pursuing his journey through Arabia, he crossed the desert of -Ammān, and met with a people extraordinary among Mahommedans, whose wives -were liberal of their favours, without exciting the jealousy of their -husbands, and who, moreover, considered it lawful to feed upon the flesh -of the domestic ass. From thence he crossed the Persian Gulf to Hormuz, -where, among many other extraordinary things, he saw the head of a fish -resembling a hill, the eyes of which were like two doors, so that people -could walk in at one eye and out at the other! He now felt himself to -be within the sphere of attraction of an object whose power he could -never resist. There was, he heard, at Janja-bal, a certain saint, and -of course he forthwith formed the resolution to refresh himself with -a sight of him. He therefore crossed the sea, and hiring a number of -Turcomans, without whose protection there was no travelling in that part -of the country, entered a waterless desert, four days’ journey in extent, -over which the Bedouins wander in caravans, and where the death-bearing -simoom blows during the hot months of summer. Having passed this desolate -and dreary tract, he arrived in Kusistān, a small province of Persia, -bordering upon Laristān, in which Janja-bal, the residence of the saint, -was situated. The sheïkh, who was secretly, or, as the people believed, -miraculously, supplied with a profusion of provisions, received our -traveller courteously, sent him fruit and food, and contrived to impress -him with a high idea of his sanctity. - -He now entered upon the ancient kingdom of Fars, an extensive and fertile -country, abounding in gardens producing a profusion of aromatic herbs, -and where the celebrated pearl-fisheries of Bahrein, situated in a -tranquil arm of the sea, are found. The pearl divers employed here were -Arabs, who, tying a rope round their waists, and wearing upon their faces -a mask made of tortoise-shell, descended into the water, where, according -to Batūta, some remained an hour, others two, searching among forests of -coral for the pearls. - -Ibn Batūta was possessed by an extraordinary passion for performing the -pilgrimage to Mecca; and now (A. D. 1332), the year in which El Malik -El Nāsir, sultan of Egypt, visited the holy city, set out from Persia -on his third sacred expedition. Having made the necessary genuflexions, -and kissed the black stone at the Kaaba, he began to turn his thoughts -towards India, but was prevented, we know not how, from carrying his -design into execution; and traversing a portion of Arabia and Egypt, -entered Room or Turkey. Here, in the province of Anatolia, he was -entertained by an extraordinary brotherhood, to whom, as to all his -noble hosts and entertainers, he devotes a portion of his travels. -This association, which existed in every Turcoman town, consisted of a -number of youths, who, under the direction of one of the members, called -“the brother,” exercised the most generous hospitality towards all -strangers, and were the vigorous and decided enemies of oppression. Upon -the formation of one of these associations, the brother, or president, -erected a cell, in which were placed a horse, a saddle, and whatever -other articles were considered necessary. The president himself, and -every thing in the cell, were always at the service of the members, who -every evening conveyed the product of their industry to the president, to -be sold for the benefit of the cell; and when any stranger arrived in the -town, he was here hospitably entertained, and contributed to increase the -hilarity of the evening, which was passed in feasting, drinking, singing, -and dancing. - -Travelling to Iconium, and other cities of Asia Minor, in all of which -he was received and entertained in a splendid manner, while presents of -slaves, horses, and gold were sometimes bestowed upon him, he at length -took ship at Senab, and sailed for Krim Tartary. During the voyage -he endured great hardships, and was very near being drowned; but at -length arrived at a small port on the margin of the desert of Kifjāk, -a country over which Mohammed Uzbek Khan then reigned. Being desirous -of visiting the court of this prince, Ibn Batūta now hired one of those -arabahs, or carts, in which the inhabitants travel with their families -over those prodigious plains, where neither mountain nor hill nor tree -meets the eye, and where the dung of animals serves as a substitute for -fuel, and entered upon a desert of six months’ extent. Throughout these -immense steppes, which are denominated _desert_ merely in reference to -their comparative unproductiveness, our traveller found cities, but -thinly scattered; and vast droves of cattle, which, protected by the -excessive severity of the laws, wandered without herdsmen or keepers -over the waste. The women of the country, though they wore no veils, -were virtuous, pious, and charitable; and consequently were held in high -estimation. - -Arriving at the _Bish Tag_, or “Five Mountains,” he there found the -_urdu_ (whence our word _horde_) or camp of the sultan, a moving city, -with its streets, palaces, mosques, and cooking houses, “the smoke of -which ascended as they moved along.” Mohammed Uzbek, then sovereign -of Kifjāk, was a brave and munificent prince; and Ibn Batūta, having, -according to Tartar etiquette, first paid a visit of ceremony to each of -his wives, was politely received by him. - -From this camp our traveller set out, with guides appointed by the -sultan, for the city of Bulgār, which, according to the Maresid Al Etluā, -is situated in Siberia. Here, in exemplification of the extreme shortness -of the night, he observes, that while repeating the prayer of sunset he -was overtaken, though he by no means lagged in his devotions, by the time -for evening prayer, which was no sooner over than it was time to begin -that of midnight; and that before he could conclude one voluntary orison, -which he added to this, the dawn had already appeared, and morning prayer -was to be begun. Forty days’ journey to the north of this place lay the -land of darkness, where, he was told, people travelled over interminable -plains of ice and snow, on small light sledges, drawn by dogs; but he was -deterred from pushing his researches into these Cimmerian regions by the -fear of danger, and considerations of the inutility of the journey. He -returned, therefore, to the camp of the sultan. - -Mohammed Uzbek had married a daughter of the Greek Emperor of -Constantinople, who, being at this time pregnant, requested his -permission to be confined in her father’s palace, where it was her -intention to leave her child. The sultan consented, and Ibn Batūta, -conceiving that an excellent opportunity for visiting the Greek capital -now presented itself, expressed a desire to accompany the princess, but -the sultan, who regarded him apparently as something too gay for a saint, -at first refused to permit him. Upon his pressing the matter, however, -representing that he should never appear before the queen but as his -servant and guest, so that no fears need be entertained of him, the -royal husband, relenting, allowed him to go, and presented him, on his -departure, with fifteen hundred dinars, a dress of honour, and several -horses; while each of his sultanas, together with his sons and daughters, -caused the traveller to taste of their bounty. - -The queen, while she remained in her husband’s territories, respected the -religion and manners of the Mohammedans; but she had no sooner entered -her father’s dominions, and found herself surrounded by her countrymen, -than she drank wine, dismissed the ministers of Islamism, and was -reported to commit the abomination of eating swine’s flesh. Ibn Batūta -was still treated with respect, however, and continuing to be numbered -among the suite of the sultana, arrived at length at Constantinople, -where, in his zeal to watch over the comfort of his royal mistress, he -exposed himself to the risk of being squeezed to death in the crowd. -On entering the city, his ears appear to have been much annoyed by the -ringing of numerous bells, which, with the inveterate passion of all -Europeans for noise when agitated by any joyous emotions, the Greeks of -Constantinople substituted for their own voices in the expression of -their satisfaction. - -Remaining about five weeks in Constantinople, where, owing to the -difference of manners, language, and religion, he does not appear to -have tasted of much pleasure, he returned to Mohammed Uzbek, whose -bounty enabled him to pursue his journey towards the east in a very -superior style. The country to which his desires now pointed was -Khavāresm, the road thither traversing, during the greater part of the -way, a barren desert, where little water and a very scanty herbage were -to be found. Crossing this waste in a carriage drawn by camels, he -arrived at Khavāresm, the largest city at that period possessed by the -Turks. Here he found the people friendly towards strangers, liberal, -and well-bred,—and no wonder; for in every mosque a whip was hung up, -with which every person who absented himself from church was soundly -flogged by the priest, besides being fined in five dinars. This practice, -which Ibn Batūta thought highly commendable, no doubt contributed -greatly towards rendering the people liberal and well-bred. Next to -the refinement of the people, the most remarkable thing he observed at -Khavāresm was a species of melon, green on the outside, and red within, -which, being cut into thin oblong slices and dried, was packed up in -cases like figs, and exported to India and China. Thus preserved, the -Khavāresm melon was thought equal to the best dried fruits in the world, -and regarded as a present worthy of kings. - -From hence Ibn Batūta departed for Bokhāra, a city renowned throughout -the east for the learning and refinement of its inhabitants, but at this -period so reduced and impoverished by the long wars of Genghis Khan and -his successors, that not one man was to be found in it who understood -any thing of science. Leaving this ancient seat of oriental learning, -he proceeded to Māwarā El Nahr, the sultan of which was a just and -powerful prince, who received him hospitably, and furnished him with -funds to pursue his wanderings. He next visited Samarkand, Balkh, and -Herat, in Khorasān; and scaling the snowy heights of the Hindoo Koosh, -or Hindoo-Slayer, so called because most of the slaves attempted to be -carried out of India by this route are killed by the severity of the -cold, he entered Kabul. Here, in a cell of the mountain called Bashāi, -he found an old man, who, though he had the appearance of being about -fifty, pretended to be three hundred and fifty years old, and assured Ibn -Batūta that at the expiration of every hundred years he was blessed with -a new growth of hair and new teeth, and that, in fact, he was the Rajah -Aba Rahim Ratan of India, who had been buried in Mooltam. Notwithstanding -his innate veneration for every thing saintly, and this man bore the name -of _Ata Evlin_, or “Father of Saints,” our honest traveller could not -repress the doubts which arose in his mind respecting his extraordinary -pretensions, and observes in his travels that he much _doubted_ of what -he was, and that he continued to doubt. - -Ibn Batūta now crossed the Indus, and found himself in Hindostan, where, -immediately upon his arrival, he met, in a city which he denominates -Janai, one of the three brothers of Borhaneddin, the Egyptian saint, -whose prediction, strengthening his natural bent of mind, had made a -great traveller of him. Traversing the desert of Sivastān, where the -Egyptian thorn was the only tree to be seen, and then descending along -the banks of the Sinde, or Indus, he arrived at the city of Lahari, on -the seashore, in the vicinity of which were the ruins of an ancient -city, abounding with the sculptured figures of men and animals, which -the superstitious natives supposed to be the real forms of the ancient -inhabitants transformed by the Almighty into stone for their wickedness. - -At Uja, a large city on the Indus, our traveller contracted a friendship -with the Emīr Jelaleddin, then governor of the place, a brave and -generous prince, whom he afterward met at Delhi. In journeying eastward -from this place, Batūta proceeded through a desert lying between two -ridges of mountains, inhabited by Hindoos, whom the traveller terms -infidel and rebellious, because they adhered to the faith of their -ancestors, and refused submission to the power of the Mohammedan -conquerors of their country. Ibn Batūta’s party, consisting of twenty-two -men, was here attacked by a large body of natives, which they succeeded -in repulsing, after they had killed thirteen of their number. In the -course of this journey he witnessed the performance of a suttee, -and remarks upon the occasion, that these human sacrifices were not -absolutely required either by the laws or the religion of Hindostan; but -that, owing to the vulgar prejudice which regarded those families as -ennobled who thus lost one of their members, the practice was greatly -encouraged. - -On arriving at Delhi, which, for strength, beauty, and extent, he -pronounces the greatest city, not only of all Hindostan, but of all -Islamism in the east, he resorted to the palace of the queen-mother and -presenting his presents, according to custom, was graciously received -and magnificently established by the bounty of that princess and the -vizier. It is to be presumed, that the money he had received in presents -from various princes on the way had exceeded his travelling expenses, -and gone on accumulating, until, on his arrival at Delhi, it amounted -to a very considerable sum; for with his house, costly furniture, and -forty attendants, his expenditure seems greatly to have exceeded the -munificence of his patrons; indeed, he very soon found that all the -resources he could command were too scanty to supply the current of his -extravagance. - -Being of the opinion of that ancient writer who thought a good companion -better than a coach on a journey, Ibn Batūta appears to have increased -his travelling establishment with a mistress, by whom he seems to have -had several children, for shortly after his arrival at the capital, -he informs us that “a daughter of his,” evidently implying that he had -more than one, happened to die. At this time our worthy theologian -was so deeply intoxicated with the fumes of that vanity which usually -accompanies the extraordinary smiles of fortune, that, although by no -means destitute of natural affection, nothing in the whole transaction -appears to have made any impression upon his mind except the honour -conferred upon him by the condescension of the vizier and the emperor. -The latter, then at a considerable distance from the capital, on being -informed of the event, commanded that the ceremonies and rites usually -performed at the funeral of the children of the nobility should now -take place; and accordingly, on the third day, when the body was to be -removed to its narrow house, the vizier, the judges, and the nobles -entered the chamber of mourning, spread a carpet, and made the necessary -preparations, consisting of incense, rose-water, readers of the Koran, -and panegyrists. Our traveller, who anticipated nothing of all this, -confesses ingenuously that he was “much gratified.” To the mother of the -child the queen-mother showed the greatest kindness, presenting her with -magnificent dresses and ornaments, and a thousand dinars in money. - -The Emperor Mohammed having been absent from Delhi ever since our -traveller’s arrival, he had hitherto found no opportunity of presenting -himself before the “Lord of the World;” but upon that great personage’s -returning, soon after the funeral, the vizier undertook to introduce -him to the presence. The emperor received him graciously, taking him -familiarly by the hand, and, in the true royal style, lavishing the most -magnificent promises. As an earnest of his future bounty, he bestowed -upon each of the many travellers who were presented at the same time, -and met with the same reception, a gold-embroidered dress, which he -had himself worn; a horse from his own stud, richly caparisoned with -housings and saddle of silver; and such refreshments as the imperial -kitchen afforded. Three days afterward Ibn Batūta was appointed one -of the judges of Delhi, on which occasion the vizier observed to him, -“The Lord of the World appoints you to the office of judge in Delhi. He -also gives you a dress of honour with a saddled horse, as also twelve -thousand dinars for your present support. He has moreover appointed you -a yearly salary of twelve thousand dinars, and a portion of lands in the -villages, which will produce annually an equal sum.” He then did homage -and withdrew. - -The fortune of Ibn Batūta was now changed. From the condition of a -religious adventurer, wandering from court to court, and from country to -country, subsisting upon the casual bounty of the great, he had now been -elevated to a post of great honour and emolument in the greatest city -then existing in the world. But it is very certain he was not rendered -happier by this promotion. The monarch upon whose nod his destiny now -depended was a man of changeful and ferocious nature, profuse and lavish -in the extreme towards those whom he affected, but when provoked, -diabolically cruel and revengeful. In the very first conference which our -traveller held with his master after his appointment, he made a false -step, and gave offence; for when the emperor had informed him that he -would by no means find his office a sinecure, he replied that he belonged -to the sect of Ibn Malik, whereas the people of Delhi were followers of -Hanīfa; and that, moreover, he was ignorant of their language. This would -have been a good reason why he should not in the first instance have -accepted the office of judge; but, having accepted of it, he should by no -means have brought forward his sectarian prejudices, or his ignorance, in -the hope of abridging the extent of his duties. The emperor, with evident -displeasure, rejoined, that he had appointed two learned men to be his -deputies, and that these would advise him how to act. He moreover added, -that it would be his business to sign all legal instruments. - -Notwithstanding the profuse generosity of Mohammed Khan, Ibn Batūta, -who seems to have understood nothing of domestic economy, soon found -himself prodigiously in debt; but his genius, fertile in expedients, and -now sharpened by necessity, soon hit upon an easy way of satisfying his -creditors. Observing that, like most of his countrymen, Mohammed Khan was -an admirer of Arabian poetry, more particularly of such as celebrated his -own praises, our theological judge, whose conscience seems to have been -hushed to silence by his embarrassments, composed in Arabic a panegyric -upon his patron, who, to borrow his own expression, “was wonderfully -pleased with it.” Taking advantage, like a thoroughbred courtier, of -this fit of good-humour, he disclosed the secret of his debt, which the -emperor, who now, no doubt, perceived the real drift of the panegyric, -ordered to be discharged from his own treasury; but added, however, “Take -care, in future, not to exceed the extent of your income.” Upon this the -traveller, whether pleased with his generosity or his advice we will not -determine, exclaims, “May God reward him!” - -No great length of time had elapsed, however, before Ibn Batūta perceived -that his grandeur had conducted him to the edge of a precipice. Having, -during a short absence of the emperor, visited a certain holy man who -resided in a cell without the city, and had once been in great favour -with Mohammed himself, our traveller received an order to attend at the -gate of the palace, while a council sat within. In most cases this was -the signal of death. But in order to mollify the Fates, Ibn Batūta betook -himself to fasting, subsisting, during the four days in which he thus -attended, upon pure water, and mentally repeating thirty-three thousand -times that verse of the Koran which says, “God is our support, and the -most excellent patron.” The aquatic diet and the repetitions prevailing, -he was acquitted, while every other person who had visited the sheïkh -was put to death. Perceiving that the risks incurred by a judge of Delhi -were at least equal to the emolument, Ibn Batūta began to feel his -inclination for his own free roaming mode of life return, resigned his -perilous office, bestowed all the wealth he possessed upon the fakeers, -and bidding adieu to the splendid vanities of the world, donned the tunic -of these religious mendicants, and attached himself during five months to -the renowned Sheïkh Kamāleddin Abdallah El Ghazi, a man who had performed -many open miracles. - -Mohammed Khan, conceiving that the ex-judge had now performed sufficient -penance for his indiscretion, sent for him again, and receiving him more -graciously than ever, observed, “Knowing the delight you experience -in travelling into various countries, I am desirous of sending you on -an embassy into China.” Ibn Batūta, who appears by this time to have -grown thoroughly tired of a fakeer’s life, very readily consented, and -forthwith received those dresses of honour, horses, money, &c. which -invariably accompanied such an appointment. Ambassadors had lately -arrived from the Emperor of China with numerous costly presents for the -khan, and requesting permission to rebuild an idol temple within the -limits of Hindostan. Mohammed Khan, though, as a true Mussulman, he -could not grant such permission unless tribute were paid, was now about -to despatch ambassadors to his brother of China, “bearing, in proof of -his greatness and munificence, presents much more valuable than those -he had received.” These presents, as highly illustrative of the manners -of those times and countries, we shall enumerate in the words of the -traveller himself; they consisted of the following articles:—One hundred -horses of the best breed, saddled and bridled; one hundred Mamlūks; one -hundred Hindoo singing slave girls; one hundred Bairami dresses, the -value of each of which was a hundred dinars; one hundred silken dresses; -five hundred saffron-coloured dresses; one hundred pieces of the best -cotton cloth; one thousand dresses of the various clothing of India; with -numerous instruments of gold and silver, swords and quivers set with -jewels, and ten robes of honour wrought with gold, of the sultan’s own -dresses, with various other articles. - -Ibn Batūta was accompanied on this mission by one of the chief of the -Ulema, and by a favourite officer of the emperor, who was intrusted with -the presents; and a guard of a thousand cavalry was appointed to conduct -them to the seaport where they were to embark. The Chinese ambassadors -and their suite returned homeward in their company. The embassy left -Delhi in the year 1342, but had not proceeded far before they encountered -a serious obstacle to their movements, and found themselves engaged -in warlike operations. El Jalali, a city lying in their route, being -besieged by the Hindoos, Ibn Batūta and his companions determined, like -true Mussulmans, to unite with their distressed brethren in repelling -the infidel forces, and in the commencement their valour was rewarded -by success; but a great number of their troop suffering “martyrdom,” -and among the rest the officer who had been intrusted with the care of -the present, it was judged necessary to transmit an account of what -had taken place to Delhi, and await the further commands of the “Lord -of the World.” In the mean while the Hindoos, though, according to Ibn -Batūta, thoroughly subdued, if not exterminated, continued their attacks -upon the Moslems; and during one of these affrays our valiant traveller -was accidentally placed in the greatest jeopardy. Having joined his -coreligionists in pursuing the vanquished Hindoos, he suddenly found -himself and five others separated from the main body of the army, and -pursued in their turn by the enemy. At length his five companions, -escaping in different directions, or falling by the sword of the Hindoos, -disappeared, and he was thus left alone in the midst of the most imminent -danger. Just at this moment the forefeet of his horse sticking fast -between two stones, he dismounted to set the beast at liberty, and -observed, that having entered the mouth of a valley his pursuers had lost -sight of him, as he had of them. Of the country, however, the towns, the -roads, and the rivers he was totally ignorant; so that, thinking his -horse as good a judge of what was best as himself in the present dilemma, -he permitted the animal to select his own path. The horse, imagining, -perhaps, that shade and safety were synonymous, proceeded towards a part -of the valley where the trees were closely interwoven, but had no sooner -reached it than a party of about forty cavalry rushed out, and made our -ambassador prisoner. - -Ibn Batūta, who immediately alighted from his charger, now began -to believe that all his journeyings were at an end; and that, -notwithstanding his dreams, and the predictions of many saints, he -was doomed never to behold China, or the second and third brothers of -the Sheïkh Borhaneddin. To corroborate his apprehensions the Hindoos -plundered him of all he possessed, bound his arms, and, taking him -along with them, travelled for two days through a country unknown to -our traveller, who, not understanding the language or manners of his -captors, imagined they intended to kill, and, perhaps, to eat him. -From these fears he was soon delivered, however, for at the end of two -days, the Hindoos, supposing, no doubt, that they had terrified him -sufficiently, gave him his liberty, and rode away. The shadows of his -past apprehensions still haunting him, he no sooner found himself alone -than plunging into the depths of an almost impenetrable forest he sought -among the haunts of wild animals an asylum from the fury of man. Here he -subsisted seven days upon the fruit and leaves of the mountain trees, -occasionally venturing out to examine whither the neighbouring roads -might lead, but always finding them conduct him towards ruins or the -abode of Hindoos. - -On the seventh day of his concealment he met with a black man, who -politely saluted him, and, the salute being returned, demanded his name. -Having satisfied the stranger upon this point, our traveller made the -same demand, and the stranger replied that he was called El Kalb El Karīh -(the “Wounded Heart”). He then gave Ibn Batūta some pulse to eat, and -water to drink, and, observing that he was too weak to walk, took him -upon his shoulders and carried him along. In this position our traveller -fell asleep, and his nap must have been a long one, for, awaking about -the dawn of the next day, he found himself at the gate of the emperor’s -palace. What became of his extraordinary charger he does not inform us; -but the emperor, who had already received by a courier the news of his -misfortunes, bestowed upon him ten thousand dinars, to console him for -his losses, and once more equipped him for his journey. Another officer -was sent to take charge of the present, returning with whom to the city -of Kul, he rejoined his companions, and proceeded on his mission. - -Proceeding by the way of Dowlutabad, Nazarabad, Canbaza, and Pattan, he -at length arrived at Kalikut in Malabar, where the whole party were to -embark for China. Here, not having properly timed their arrival, our -sage ambassadors had to remain three months, waiting for a favourable -wind. When the season for departure had arrived, the other members of -the embassy embarked with the present; but Ibn Batūta, finding the -cabin which had been assigned him much too small to contain his baggage -and the multitude of slave girls, remained on shore for the purpose of -bargaining for a larger vessel, and hearing divine service on the next -day. During the night a tempest arose, which drove several of the junks -upon the shore, where a great number of the crew and passengers perished. -The ship which contained the imperial present weathered the storm until -the morning, when our traveller, descending to the beach, beheld her -tossed about upon the furious waves, while the officers of the emperor -prostrated themselves upon the deck in despair. Presently she struck upon -the rocks, and every soul on board perished. A part of the fleet, among -the rest the vessel containing our traveller’s property, sailed away, and -of the fate of the greater number of them nothing was ever known. The -whole of Ibn Batūta’s wealth now consisted of a prostration carpet and -ten dinars; but being told that in all probability the ship in which he -had embarked his fortune had put into Kawlam, a city ten days’ journey -distant, he proceeded thither, but upon his arrival found that his hopes -had been buoyed up in vain. - -He was now in the most extraordinary dilemma in which he had ever been -placed. Knowing the fierce and unreflecting character of the emperor, -who, without weighing his motives, would condemn him for having remained -on shore; and being too poor to remain where he was, he could not for -some time determine how to act. At length, however, he resolved to visit -the court of Jemaleddin, king of Hinaur, who received him kindly, and -allowed him to become reader to the royal mosque. Shortly afterward, -having been encouraged thereto by a favourable omen, obtained from -a sentence of the Koran, he accompanied Jemaleddin in an expedition -against the island of Sindibur, which was subdued and taken possession -of. To console Ibn Batūta for the many misfortunes he had lately -endured, Jemaleddin presented him with a slave girl, clothing, and other -necessaries; and he remained with him several months. Still, however, -he was not reconciled to the loss of his pretty female slave and other -property which had been embarked in the Chinese ship, and requested the -king’s permission to make a voyage to Kawlam for the purpose of making -inquiries concerning it. His request being granted, he proceeded to -Kawlam, where, to his great grief, he learned that his former mistress -had died, and that his property had been seized upon by the “infidels,” -while his followers had found other masters. - -This affair being thus at an end, he returned to Sindibur, where he found -his friend Jemaleddin besieged by an infidel king. Not being able to -enter the city, he embarked, without delay, for the Maldive Islands, all -parts of the earth being now much alike to him, and after a ten days’ -voyage arrived at that extraordinary archipelago. Here, after dwelling -upon the praises of the cocoanut, which he describes as an extremely -powerful aphrodisiac, he informs us, as a commentary upon the above -text, that he had four wives, besides a reasonable number of mistresses. -Nevertheless, the natives, he says, are chaste and religious, and so -very peacefully disposed that their only weapons are prayers. In one of -these islands he was raised to the office of judge, when, according to -his own testimony, he endeavoured to prevail upon his wives, contrary to -the custom of the country, to eat in his company, and conceal their bosom -with their garments, but could never succeed. - -The legend which ascribes the conversion of these islanders to -Mohammedanism, the religion now prevailing there, to a man who delivered -the country from a sea-monster, which was accustomed to devour monthly -one of their most beautiful virgins, strongly resembles the story of -Perseus and Andromeda. In order to keep up the fervency of their piety -the monster still appears on a certain day in the offing. Ibn Batūta, -who had little of the skeptic in his composition, saw the apparition -himself, in the form of a ship filled with candles and torches; and it -may, perhaps, be the same supernatural structure which still hovers about -those seas, sailing in the teeth of the wind, and denominated by European -mariners the “Flying Dutchman.” In these islands Ibn Batūta remained some -time, sailing from isle to isle through glittering and tranquil seas, -being everywhere raised to posts of honour and distinction, and tasting -of all the delights and pleasures which power, consideration, and a -delicious climate could bestow. - -Neither riches nor honours, however, could fix Ibn Batūta in one place. -He was as restless as a wave of the sea. No sooner, therefore, had he -seen the principal curiosities of the Maldive Islands, than he burned -to be again in motion, visiting new scenes, and contemplating other men -and other manners. Embarking on board a Mohammedan vessel, he set sail -for the island of Ceylon, principally for the purpose of visiting the -mark of Adam’s footstep on the mountain of Serendib, the lofty summit of -which appeared, he observes, like a pillar of smoke at the distance of -nine days’ sail. Drawing near the land, he was at first forbidden by the -Hindoo authorities to come on shore; but, upon his informing them that -he was a relation of the King of Maabar, as he in some sense was, having -while at Delhi married the sister of that prince’s queen, they permitted -him to disembark. The king of the country, who happened at that time to -be in amity with the sovereign of Maabar, received him hospitably, and -bade him ask boldly for whatever he might want. “My only desire,” replied -the traveller, “in coming to this island is to visit the blessed foot of -our forefather Adam.” This being the case, the king informed him that -his desires might easily be gratified, and forthwith granted him an -escort of four Jogees, four Brahmins, ten courtiers, and fifteen men for -carrying provisions, with a palanquin and bearers for his own use. - -With this superb retinue the traveller departed from Battalā, the capital -of his royal host, and journeying for several days through a country -abounding with wild elephants, arrived at the city of Kankār, situated -on the Bay of Rubies, where the emperor of the whole island at that time -resided. Here Ibn Batūta saw the only white elephant which he beheld -in all his travels; and the beast, being set apart for the use of the -prince, had his head adorned with enormous rubies, one of which was -larger than a hen’s egg. Other rubies of still greater magnitude were -sometimes found in the mines, and Ibn Batūta saw a saucer as large as -the palm of the hand cut from one single stone. Rubies were in fact so -plentiful here that the women wore strings of them upon their arms and -legs, instead of bracelets and ankle-rings. - -In the course of this journey our traveller passed through a district -inhabited chiefly by black monkeys, with long tails, and beards like -men. He was assured by “very pious and credible persons” that these -monkeys had a kind of leader, or king, who, being, we suppose, ambitious -of appearing to be an Islamite, wore upon his head a species of turban -composed of the leaves of trees, and reclined on a staff as upon a -sceptre. He had, moreover, his council and his harem, like any other -prince; and one of the Jogees asserted that he had himself seen the -officers of his court doing justice upon a criminal, by beating him with -rods, and plucking off all his hair. His revenue, which was paid in kind, -consisted of a certain number of nuts, lemons, and mountain fruit; but -upon what principle it was collected we are not informed. Another of the -wonders of Ceylon were the terrible tree-leeches, which, springing from -the branches, or from the tall rank grass, upon the passing traveller, -fastened upon him, drained out his blood, and sometimes occasioned -immediate death. To prevent this fatal result the inhabitants always -carry a lemon about with them, which they squeeze upon the leech, and -thus force him to quit his hold. - -Arriving at length at the Seven Caves, and the Ridge of Alexander, -they began to ascend the mountain of Serendib, which, according to the -orientals, is one of the highest in the world. Its summit rises above -the region of the clouds; for our traveller observes, that when he had -ascended it, he beheld those splendid vapours rolling along in masses -far beneath his feet. Among the extraordinary trees and plants which -grew upon this mountain is that red rose, about the size of the palm -of the hand, upon the leaves of which the Mohammedans imagine they can -read the name of God and of the Prophet. Two roads lead to the top of -this mountain, of which the one is said to be that of Bābā, or Adam; the -other, that of Māmā, or Eve. The latter is winding, sloping, and easy -of ascent, and is therefore chosen by the pilgrims impatient on their -first arrival to visit the Blessed Foot; but whoever departs without -having also climbed the rough and difficult road of Bābā, is thought not -to have performed the pilgrimage at all. The mark of the foot, which is -eleven spans in length, is in a rock upon the very apex of the mountain. -In the same rock, surrounding the impression of the foot, there are nine -small excavations, into which the pagan pilgrims, who imagine it to be -the print of Buddha’s foot instead of that of Adam, put gold, rubies, -and other jewels; and hence the fakeers who come hither on pilgrimage -strenuously endeavour to outstrip each other in their race up the -mountain, that they may seize upon those treasures. - -In returning from the pilgrimage our traveller saw that sacred -cypress-tree the leaves of which never fall, or if they do, drop off so -seldom that it is thought that the person who finds one and eats it will -return again to the blooming season of youth, however old he may be. When -Ibn Batūta passed by the tree, he saw several Jogees beneath it, watching -for the dropping of a leaf; but whether they ever tasted of the joys of -rejuvenescence, or quickened the passage of their souls into younger -bodies, he does not inform us. - -Returning thence to Battalā, he embarked on board the same ship which -had conveyed him to Ceylon, and departed for Maabar. During the voyage, -short as it was, a storm arose which endangered the ship, and put their -lives in jeopardy; but they were saved by the bravery of the Hindoo -pilots, who put out in their small frail boats, and brought them to -land. He was received by his relation, the Sultan Ghietheddin, with -great honour and distinction; but this prince being then engaged in war, -for the vicissitudes and dangers of which our traveller had never any -particular predilection, he departed on a visit to the Rajah of Hinaur. -Passing on his way through the city of Fattan, he saw among groves of -pomegranate-trees and vines a number of fakeers, one of whom had seven -foxes, who breakfasted and dined with him daily, while another had a lion -and a gazelle, which lived together as familiarly as the dogs and angolas -in a cat-merchant’s cage on the Pont Neuf. - -Before he could leave the Maabar country, he was seized with a -dangerous fever at Maturah, where the Sultan Ghietheddin died of -the same contagious disorder. On his recovery he obtained the new -sultan’s permission to continue his journey, and embarking at Kawlam -in Malabar, proceeded towards Hinaur. Ibn Batūta was seldom fortunate -at sea. Sometimes he was robbed; at other times nearly drowned. The -present voyage was the most unfortunate he ever undertook, for the ship -being attacked and taken by pirates, he, as well as the rest of the -passengers and crew, was robbed of all he possessed, and landed on the -coast penniless and nearly naked. He contrived, however, by the aid of -the charitable, we presume, to find his way to Kalicut, where, meeting -with several merchants and lawyers who had known him in the days of his -prosperity at Delhi, he was once more equipped handsomely, and enabled -to pursue his romantic adventures. He had at this time some thoughts -of returning to the court of the Sultan Mohammed, but fear, or rather -prudence, deterred him, and he took the more agreeable route of the -Maldive Islands, where he had left a little boy with his native mother. -It seems to have been his intention to have taken away the child; but as -the laws of the country forbade the emigration of women, he came away as -he went, abandoning his offspring to the affection of its mother. - -From hence the bounty of the vizier enabled him to proceed to Bengal, -a country then, as now, renowned for its prodigious fertility, and the -consequent cheapness of provisions. He still, we find, regarded himself -as a servant of the emperor, for Fakraddin, the king or subahdar of -Bengal, being then in rebellion against Mohammed, Ibn Batūta avoided -being presented to him, and proceeded towards Tibet, for the purpose of -visiting a famous saint, who wrought “great and notable” miracles, and -lived to the great age of one hundred and fifty years. This great man, -who was accustomed to fast ten days at a time, and sit up all night, -foresaw supernaturally the visit of Ibn Batūta, and sent forth four -of his companions to meet him at the distance of two days’ journey, -observing, “A western religious traveller is coming to you; go out and -meet him.” - -On arriving at the cell he found the sheïkh prepared to receive him; -and with this great saint and his followers he remained three days. On -the day of our traveller’s presentation the sheïkh wore a fine yellow -garment, for which in his heart Ibn Batūta conceived an unaccountable -longing; and the saint, who, it seems, could read the thoughts of men, -as well as the secrets of futurity, immediately went to the side of the -cave, and taking it off, together with his fillet and his sleeves, put -the whole upon his guest. The fakeers informed Batūta, however, that the -sage had predicted that the garment would be taken away by an infidel -king, and given to the Sheïkh Borhaneddin of Sagirj, for whom it was -made; but Batūta replied, “Since I have a blessing from the sheïkh, and -since he has clothed me with his own clothes, I will never enter with -them into the presence of any king, whether infidel or Moslem.” The -prediction, however, was accomplished, for the Emperor of China took away -the garment, and bestowed it upon the very Borhaneddin in question. - -Descending from these mountains to the seashore, he embarked at -Sutirkawan for Sumatra, and touching on the way at certain islands, -which may, perhaps, have been the greater and lesser Andamans, saw a -people with mouths like dogs, who wore no clothing, and were totally -destitute of religion. Leaving these islands, they arrived in fifteen -days at Sumatra, a green and blooming island, where the frankincense, -the cocoanut, the Indian aloe, the sweet orange, and the camphor-reed -were found in great abundance. Proceeding to the capital, our traveller -was hospitably received by the Sultan Jemaleddin, a pious and munificent -prince, who walked to his prayers on Friday, and was peculiarly partial -to the professors of the Mohammedan law; while in the arts of government -and war he exhibited great talents, keeping his infidel neighbours in awe -of him, and maintaining among his own subjects a great enthusiasm for his -person. - -After remaining here fifteen days, partaking of the hospitality of the -Sultan Jemaleddin, our traveller departed in a junk for China, where, -after a pleasant and prosperous voyage, he arrived in safety, and found -himself surrounded by new wonders. This, he thought, was the richest and -most fertile country he had ever visited. Mohammedanism, however, had -made little or no progress among the yellow men, for he observes that -they were all infidels, worshipping images, and burning their dead, like -the Hindoos. The emperor, at this period, was a descendant of Genghis -Khan, who seems to have so far tolerated the Mohammedans, that they had -a separate quarter allotted to them in every town, where they resided -apart from the pagans. Ibn Batūta seems to have regarded the Chinese with -a secret disgust, for he observes that they would eat the flesh of both -dogs and swine, which was sold publicly in their markets. Though greatly -addicted to the comforts and pleasures of life, the distinctions of rank -were not very apparent among them, the richest merchants dressing, like -the commonalty, in a coarse cotton dress, and all making use, in walking, -of a staff, which was called “the third leg.” In the extreme cheapness -of silks, our traveller might have discovered the reason why the richest -merchants wore cotton; for, as he himself observes, one cotton dress -would purchase many silk ones, which, accordingly, were the usual dress -of the poorer classes. - -The internal trade and commerce of the country was carried on with paper -money, which, as Marco Polo likewise observes, had totally superseded the -use of the dirhem and the dinar. These bank-notes, if we may so apply the -term, were about the size of the palm of the hand, and were stamped with -the royal stamp. When torn accidentally, or worn out by use, these papers -could be carried to what may be termed their mint, and changed without -loss for new ones, the emperor being satisfied with the profits accruing -from their circulation. No other money was in use. Whatever gold and -silver was possessed by individuals was melted into ingots, and placed -for show over the doors of their houses. - -The perfection to which the Chinese of those days had carried the -elegant and useful arts appeared extraordinary to our traveller, who -dwells with vast complacency upon the beauty of their paintings and the -peculiar delicacy of their porcelain. One example of their ingenuity -amused him exceedingly. Returning after a short absence to one of their -cities, through which he had just passed, he found the walls and houses -ornamented with portraits of himself and his companions. This, however, -was a mere police regulation, intended to familiarize the people with -the forms and features of strangers, that should they commit any crime -they might be easily recognised. Ships found to contain any article -not regularly entered in the custom-house register were confiscated; -“a species of oppression,” says our traveller, “which I witnessed -nowhere else.” Strangers, on their first arrival, placed themselves and -their property in the keeping of some merchant or innkeeper, who was -answerable for the safety of both. The Chinese, regarding their children -as property, sell them whenever they can get a purchaser, which renders -slaves both male and female extremely cheap among them; and as chastity -appears to possess little or no merit in their eyes, travellers are in -the habit of purchasing, on their arrival in any city, a slave girl, who -resides with them while they remain, and at their departure is either -sold again, like an ordinary piece of furniture, or taken away along -with them to be disposed of elsewhere. The severity of their police -regulations proves that their manners had even then arrived at that -pitch of corruption in which little or no reliance is to be placed on -moral influence, the place of which is supplied by caution, vigilance, -and excessive terror. Strangers moved about in the midst of innumerable -guards, who might, perhaps, be considered as much in the light of spies -as defenders. Fear predominated everywhere; the traveller feared his -host, and the host the traveller. Religion, honour, morals had no power, -or rather no existence. Hence the low pitch beyond which the civilization -of China has never been able to soar, and that retrogradation towards -barbarism which has long commenced in that country, and is rapidly urging -the population towards the miserable condition in which they were plunged -before the times of Yaon and Shan, who drew them out of their forests and -caverns. - -To proceed, however, with the adventures of our traveller. The first -great city at which he arrived he denominated El Zaitūn, which was the -place where the best coloured and flowered silks in the empire were -manufactured. It was situated upon a large arm of the sea, and being -one of the finest ports in the world, carried on an immense trade, -and overflowed with wealth and magnificence. He next proceeded to Sin -Kilan, another city on the seashore, beyond which, he was informed, -neither Chinese nor Mohammedan ever travelled, the inhabitants of those -parts being fierce, inhospitable, and addicted to cannibalism. In a -cave without this city was a hermit, or more properly an impostor, who -pretended to have arrived at the great age of two hundred years without -eating, drinking, or sleeping. Ibn Batūta, who could not, of course, -avoid visiting so great and perfect a being, going to his cell, found -him to be a thin, beardless, copper-coloured old man, possessing all the -external marks of a saint. When the worthy traveller saluted him, instead -of returning his salutation, he seized his hand, and smelt it; and then, -turning to the interpreter, he said, “This man is just as much attached -to this world as we are to the next.” Upon further discourse, it appeared -that the saint and the traveller had met before, the former being, in -fact, a jogee, whom Ibn Batūta had seen many years before leaning against -the wall of an idol temple in the island of Sindibur. Saints, as well -as other men, are sometimes imprudent. The jogee had no sooner made -this confession than he repented of it, and, retreating into his cell, -immediately disguised himself, so that the traveller, who he suspected -would forcibly follow him, could not upon entering recognise his person -in the least. To infuse into his visiter’s mind the belief that he -possessed the power of rendering himself invisible, he informed him that -he had seen the last of the holy men, who, though at that moment present, -was not to be seen. On returning to the city, our traveller was assured -by the judge of the place that it was the same person who had appeared to -him both within and without the cave, and that, in fact, the good man was -fond of playing such tricks. - -Returning to El Zaitūn, he proceeded towards the capital, and halted a -little at the city of Fanjanfūr, which, from the number and beauty of -its gardens, in some measure resembled Damascus. Here, at a banquet to -which he was invited, the remembrance of home was forcibly recalled to -his mind by a very affecting and unexpected meeting. He was sitting at -table, among his jovial entertainers, when a great Mohammedan fakeer, -who entered and joined the company, attracted his attention; and as he -continued to gaze earnestly at him for some time, the man at length -observed him, and said, “Why do you continue looking at me, unless you -know me?” To this Ibn Batūta replied, by demanding the name of his -native place. “I am,” said the man, “from Ceuta.”—“And I,” replied Ibn -Batūta, “am from Tangiers.” By that peculiar structure of the mind which -gives associations of ideas, whether pleasurable or painful, so thorough -an empire over our feelings, the very enunciation of those two sounds -melted and subdued the temper of their souls. The fakeer saluted him, -and wept; and the traveller, returning his salute, wept also. Ibn Batūta -then inquired whether he had ever been in India, and was informed that -he had remained for some time in the imperial palace of Delhi. A sudden -recollection now flashed upon our traveller’s mind: “Are you, then, El -Bashiri?” said he; and the fakeer replied, “I am he.” Ibn Batūta now -knew who he was, and remembered that while yet a youth without a beard -he had travelled with his uncle, Abul Kasim, from Africa to Hindostan; -and that he himself had afterward recommended him as an able repeater -of the Koran to the emperor, though the fakeer, preferring liberty and -a rambling life, had refused to accept of any office. He was now in -possession, however, of both rank and riches, and bestowed many presents -upon his former benefactor. To show the wandering disposition of the men, -our traveller remarks that he shortly after met with the brother of this -fakeer at Sondan, in the heart of Africa. - -Still proceeding on his way, he next arrived at the city of El Khausa -(no doubt the Kinsai of Marco Polo), which he pronounces the longest he -had ever seen on the face of the earth; and to give some idea of its -prodigious extent, observes, that a traveller might journey on through -it for three days, and still find lodgings. As the Chinese erect their -houses in the midst of gardens, like the natives of Malabar, and enclose -within the walls what may be termed parks and meadows, the population -of their cities is never commensurate with their extent; so that their -largest capitals may be regarded as inferior in population to several -cities of Europe. However, the flames of civil war, which then raged with -inextinguishable fury through the whole empire, prevented our traveller -from visiting Khan Balik, the Cambalu of Marco Polo and the older -geographers, and the Peking of the Chinese; and therefore he returned -to El Zaitūn, where he embarked on board a Mohammedan vessel bound for -Sumatra. During this voyage, in which they were driven by a tempest into -unknown seas, both our traveller and the crew of the ship in which he -sailed mistook a cloud for an island, and, being driven towards it by -the wind, suffered, by anticipation, all the miseries of shipwreck. Some -betook themselves to prayer and repentance; others made vows. In the mean -while night came on, the wind died away, and in the morning, when they -looked out for their island, they found that it had ascended into the -air, while a bright current of light flowed between it and the sea. New -fears now seized upon the superstitious crew. Escaped from shipwreck, -they began to imagine that the dusky body which they discovered -at a distance hovering in the sky was no other than the monstrous -rock-bird which makes so distinguished a figure in the Arabian Nights’ -Entertainment; and they had little doubt, that should it perceive them, -it would immediately pounce upon and devour both them and their ship. The -wind blowing in a contrary direction, they escaped, however, from the -rock, and in the course of two months arrived safely in Java, where our -traveller was honourably received and entertained by the king. - -Remaining here two months, and receiving from the sultan presents of -lignum, aloes, camphire, cloves, sandal-wood, and provisions, he at -length departed in a junk bound for Kawlam, in Malabar, where, after -a voyage of forty days, he arrived; and visiting Kalikut and Zafār, -again departed for the Persian Gulf. Traversing a portion of Persia and -Mesopotamia, he entered Syria; and the desire of visiting his native -place now springing up in his heart, he hastened, after once more -performing the pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, to embark for Barbary, -and arrived at Fez in 1350, after an absence of twenty-six years. Though -received in the most distinguished manner by his native sovereign, -who, in his opinion, united all the good and great qualities of all the -great princes he had seen, and believing, like a true patriot, that his -own country of all the regions of the earth was the most beautiful, -the old habit of locomotion was still too strong to be subdued; and -imagining he should enjoy peculiar pleasure in warring for the true -faith, he passed over into Spain, where the Mohammedans were then engaged -in vanquishing or eradicating the power of the Christians. The places -which here principally commanded his attention were, the Hill of Victory -(Gibraltar), and Granada, whose suburbs, surpassing those of Damascus -itself, and intersected by the sparkling waters of the Xenil, appeared to -him the finest in the whole world. - -From Spain Ibn Batūta again passed into Africa, apparently without at -all engaging in the war against the Christians, and, after traversing -the cultivated districts, entered the great desert of Sahara, through -which he proceeded, without meeting with village or habitation for -five-and-twenty days, when they arrived at Tagāzā, or Thagari, a place -built entirely of rock salt. Proceeding onwards through the desert, in -this portion of which there is neither water, bird, nor tree, and where -the dazzling burning sand is whirled aloft in vast clouds, and driven -along with prodigious rapidity by the winds, they arrived in ten days -at the city of Abu Latin, the first inhabited place in the kingdom -of Sondan. Here our traveller was so exceedingly disgusted with the -character of the negroes, who exhibited unmitigated contempt for all -white people, that he at first resolved to return without completing -his design; but the travelling passion prevailed, he remained at Abu -Latin fifty days, studying the manners and customs of the inhabitants. -Contrary to the general rule, he found the women beautiful and the men -not jealous; the effect, in all probability, of unbounded corruption of -manners. - -Proceeding thence to Mali, or Melli, and remaining there a short time, -being honourably received and presented with valuable gifts by the king, -he next departed for Timbuctoo, which at that time appears to have -been quite an inferior place, dependent on Mali. Returning thence by -the way of Sigilmāsa to Fez, in the year 1353, he there concluded his -wanderings, and in all probability employed the remainder of his life -in the composition of those travels of which we merely possess a meager -abridgment, the most complete copy of which was brought to England by -Mr. Burckhardt. The translation of this abridgment by Professor Lee, -useful as it is, must be rendered greatly more valuable by extending -the English, and rejecting the Arabic notes; and by the addition of an -index, which would facilitate the study of the work. How long Ibn Batūta -survived his return to his native country, and whether the travels were -his own work, are facts of which nothing is known. - - - - -LEO AFRICANUS. - -Born about 1486.—Died about 1540. - - -The original name of this distinguished traveller was Al Hassan Ben -Mohammed Al Vazan, surnamed Fezzani, on account of his having studied and -passed the greater part of his youth at Fez. He was, however, a native of -the city of Granada in Spain, where he appears to have been born about -the year 1486 or 1487. When this city, the last stronghold of Islamism -in the Peninsula, was besieged by the Christians in 1491, the parents -of Leo, who were a branch of the noble family of Zaid, passed over into -Africa, taking their son, then a child, along with them, and established -themselves at Fez, the capital of the Mohammedan kingdom of the same -name. Fez, at this period the principal seat of Mohammedan learning -in Africa, was no less distinguished among the cities of Islamism for -the magnificence and splendour of its mosques, palaces, caravansaries, -and gardens; yet Leo, who already exhibited a vigorous and independent -character, preferred the tranquil and salubrious retreat of Habbed’s -Camp, a small place originally founded by a hermit, upon a mountain six -miles from the capital, and commanding a view both of the city and its -environs. Here he passed four delightful summers in study and retirement. - -Having at the age of fourteen completed his studies, he became secretary -or registrar to a caravanserai, at a salary of three golden dinars per -month, and this office he filled during two years. At the expiration of -this period, about the year 1502, he accompanied his uncle on an embassy -from the King of Fez to the Sultan of Timbuctoo, and in that renowned -assemblage of hovels he remained four years. On his return from this -city, which he afterward visited at a more mature age, he made a short -stay at Tefza, the capital of a small independent territory in the empire -of Morocco. The city was large and flourishing; the people wealthy; but -divisions arising among them, several individuals of distinction were -driven into exile, who, repairing to the King of Fez, conjured him to -grant them a certain number of troops, in return for which they engaged -to reduce their native city, and place it in his hands. The troops -were granted—the city reduced—the chiefs of the popular party thrown -into prison. The business now being to extort from them the greatest -possible sum of money, they were informed, that unless they immediately -produced wherewith to defray the expenses of the expedition, they should -without delay be transported to Fez, where the king would not fail -to exact from them at least double the amount. Being aware into what -hands they were fallen, the chiefs consented, and desired their wives -and relatives to produce the money. The ladies of course obeyed; but in -order to make it appear that they had achieved the matter with the utmost -difficulty, and had in fact collected all they possessed in the world, -they included their rings, bracelets, and other ornaments and jewels, -the whole amounting to about twenty-eight thousand golden dinars. This -sum exceeding what had been demanded, there appeared to be no longer any -pretence for detaining the men in prison; but the general, imagining -that persons who possessed so much must infallibly possess more, could -not prevail upon himself to part with them so easily. Therefore, calling -together the prisoners, who were about forty-two in number, he informed -them in a tone of great commiseration that he had just received letters -from the king, peremptorily commanding him to put them all to death -without delay, and that of course he could not dare to disobey the orders -of his sovereign. At these words indescribable terror and consternation -seizing upon the prisoners, they wept bitterly, and in the poignancy of -their anguish conjured the chief to have mercy upon them. The worthy -soldier, who had apparently been educated at court, shed tears also, and -seemed to be overwhelmed with sorrow and perplexity. While they were in -this dilemma, a man who appeared to be totally new to the affair entered, -and upon hearing the whole state of the case, gave it as his opinion that -the severity of the king might be mitigated by a large sum of money. -The prisoners, who appeared to revive at these words, forgetting that, -according to their own account, the former mulct had exhausted all their -means, now offered immense sums in exchange for their lives, not only -to the king, but likewise to the general. This being the point aimed -at, their offer was of course accepted; and having paid eighty-four -thousand pieces of gold to the king, and rewarded the astute general with -a costly present of horses, slaves, and perfumes, the poor men were at -length liberated. Leo, who was present at this transaction, admires the -extraordinary ingenuity of mankind in extorting money; and observes that -some time after this his majesty of Fez extracted a still larger sum from -a single Jew. - -The chronology of our traveller’s various expeditions it is difficult -if not impossible to determine; but he appears shortly after this -characteristic affair to have made an excursion into those vast plains, -or deserts, of Northern Africa, inhabited by the Bedouins, where he -amused himself with contemplating the rude character and manners of this -primitive people. His first attempt, however, to visit these wild tribes -was unsuccessful. Setting out from Fez, and traversing a mountainous -and woody country, abounding in fountains and rivulets, and extremely -fertile, he arrived at the foot of Mount Atlas, whose sides were covered -with vast forests, while its summits were capped with snow. The merchants -who cross this tremendous mountain with fruit from the date country -usually arrive about the end of October, but are often surprised in their -passage by snow-storms, which, in the course of a few hours, not only -bury both carriages and men, but even the trees, so that not a vestige of -them remains visible. When the sun melts the snow in the spring, then the -carriages and the bodies of the dead are found. - -It was some time in the month of October that Leo arrived with a large -company of merchants at the ascent of Atlas, where they were overtaken -about sunset by a storm of blended snow and hail, accompanied by the -most piercing cold. As they were toiling upwards, they encountered a -small troop of Arab horsemen, who, inviting our traveller to descend -from his carriage and bear them company, promised to conduct him to an -agreeable and secure asylum. Though entertaining considerable doubts -of their intentions, he could not venture to refuse; but while he -accepted of their civility, he began to revolve in his mind the means -of concealing from them the wealth which he bore about his person. The -horsemen, however, were all mounted and impatient to be on the march; -he had, therefore, not a moment to lose, but pretending a pressing -necessity for stepping aside for an instant, he retreated behind a tree, -and deposited his money among a heap of stones at the foot of it. Then -carefully observing the spot, he returned to the Arabs, who immediately -began their journey. They travelled rapidly till about midnight without -uttering a word, battered by the storm and severely pinched by the cold; -when, having reached a spot proper for the purpose they had in view, they -stopped suddenly, and one of them, coming close up to our traveller, -demanded of him what wealth he had about him. He replied that he had -none, having intrusted one of his fellow-travellers with his money. -This the Arabs refused to believe, and, in order to satisfy themselves -upon the point, commanded him, without considering the bitterness of -the weather, to strip himself to the skin. When he had done so, and was -found to be as penniless as he was naked, they burst into a loud laugh, -pretending that what they had done was merely to ascertain whether he was -a hardy man or not, and could endure the biting of the cold and the fury -of the tempest. They now once more proceeded on their way, as swiftly as -the darkness of the night and the roughness of the weather would permit, -until they perceived by the bleating of sheep that they were approaching -the habitations of men. This sound serving them for a guide, they dashed -away through thick woods and over steep rocks, to the great hazard of -their necks; and at length arrived at an immense cavern, where they found -a number of shepherds, who, having driven in all their flocks, had -kindled a blazing fire, and were eagerly crowding round it on account of -the cold. - -Observing that their visiters were Arabs, the shepherds were at first -greatly terrified; but being by degrees persuaded that they intended -them no harm, and merely demanded shelter from the inclemency of the -weather, they recovered their self-possession, and entertained them with -the most generous hospitality. After supper, the whole company stretched -themselves round the fire, and slept soundly until next morning. The -snow still continuing to fall, they remained two whole days in this wild -retreat; but on the third the weather clearing up, a passage was cut -through the snow, and merging into daylight they mounted their horses, -and descended towards the plains of Fez, the kindly shepherds acting as -their guides through the difficult passes of the mountains. They now -learned that the caravan with which Leo was travelling when encountered -by the Arabs, had been overwhelmed by the snow; so that no hope of -plunder being left, our traveller’s friendly preservers seized upon a Jew -with the design of extorting a large ransom from him; and borrowing Leo’s -horse in order to convey the Hebrew prize to their tents, they commended -its master to the mercy of fortune and the winds, and departed. Good -luck, or the charity of some benevolent hind, furnished our traveller -with a mule, upon which he made his way in three days to the capital. - -Not being discouraged by this adventure, which, when safely concluded, -appeared rather romantic than unfortunate, he again bent his steps -towards the desert, and at length succeeded in his attempt to become the -guest of the children of Ishmael. Here he found himself surrounded by -that fierce and untameable people, who, having to their natural wildness -and ferocity added those qualities of perfidiousness and treachery which -the venom of the African soil appears to engender inevitably, might -be regarded as the most dangerous of all those barbarians among whom -civilized man could expose himself. Hunting the lion, taming the most -fiery coursers, in short, all violent exercises, and bloodshed, and war, -were their daily recreations. Nevertheless some traces of the milder -manners of Arabia remained. Poetry, adapting itself to the tastes of -these rude men, celebrated in songs burning with energy and enthusiasm -the prowess and exploits of their warriors, the beauty of their women, -the savage but sublime features of their country, or the antiquity and -glory of their race. Making their sword the purveyor of their desires, -they enjoyed whatever iron thus fashioned could purchase,—ample tents, -costly and magnificent garments, vessels of copper or of brass, with -abundance of silver and gold. In summer moving northward before the sun, -they poured down upon the cultivated country lying along the shores of -the Mediterranean, through a thousand mountain defiles, and collecting -both fruit and grain as they were ripened by its rays, watched the -retreat of the great luminary towards the southern tropic, and pursued -its fiery track across the desert. - -Returning from this expedition without undergoing any particular -hardships, he shortly afterward passed into Morocco, where he remained -during several years, visiting its most celebrated cities, mountains, and -deserts, and carefully studying the manners of its inhabitants under all -their aspects. The first place of any note which he examined was Mount -Magran. Here, amid wild Alpine scenes, and peaks covered with eternal -snow, he found a people whose simple manners carried back his imagination -to the first ages of the world. In winter they had no fixed habitations, -but dwelt in large baskets, the sides of which were formed of the bark -of trees, and the roof of wicker-work. These they removed from place -to place on the backs of mules, stopping and dismounting their houses -wherever they met with pasture for their flocks. During the warm months, -however, they erected huts of larger dimensions, roofing them with -green boughs, and provender for their cattle being plentiful, remained -stationary. To defend their flocks and herds from the cold, which is -there always severe during the night, they kindled immense fires close to -their doors, which, emitting too great a flame when fanned by tempestuous -winds, sometimes caught their combustible dwellings, and endangered the -lives both of themselves and their cattle. They were likewise exposed -to the daily hazard of being devoured by lions or wolves, animals which -abound in that savage region. - -From hence he proceeded to Mount Dedas, a lofty chain eighty miles -in length, covered with vast forests, and fertilized by a prodigious -number of fountains and rivulets. On the summit of this ridge were then -found the ruins of a very ancient city, on the white walls and solitary -monuments of which there existed numerous inscriptions, but couched in -a language and characters totally unknown to the inhabitants, some of -whom supposed it to have been built by the Romans, though no mention -of the place occurs in any African historian. The wretched race then -inhabiting the mountain dwelt in caverns, or in huts of stones rudely -piled upon each other. Their whole riches consisted in large droves of -asses and flocks of goats; barley bread with a little salt and milk was -their only food; and scarcely the half of their bodies were covered by -their miserable garments. Yet the caverns in which they and their goats -lay down promiscuously abounded in nitre, which in any civilized country -would have sufficed to raise them to a state of opulence. The manners of -these troglodytes were execrable. Living without hope and without God in -the world, they fearlessly perpetrated all manner of crimes, treachery, -thieving, open robbery, and murder. The women were still more ragged and -wretched than the men, and the traveller found it, upon the whole, the -most disagreeable place in all Africa. - -As Leo did not make any regular tour of the country, but repaired now to -one place, now to another, as business or accident impelled him, we find -him to-day at one end of Morocco, and when the next date is given he is -at the opposite extremity. Nothing, therefore, is left the biographer but -to follow as nearly as possible the order of time. Towards the conclusion -of the year in which he crossed Mount Dedas in his way to Segelmessa, he -proceeded with Sheriff, a Moorish chief, in whose service he happened -to be, towards the western provinces of Morocco, and travelling with -a powerful escort, or rather with an army, had little or nothing to -fear from the most sanguinary and perfidious of the barbarian tribes. -One of the most remarkable places visited during this excursion was El -Eusugaghen, the “City of Murderers.” The mere description of the manners -of its inhabitants makes the blood run cold. The city, erected on the -summit of a lofty mountain, was surrounded by no gardens, and shaded by -no fruit-trees. Barley and oil were the only produce of the soil. The -poorer portion of the inhabitants went barefoot throughout the year, -the richer wore a rude species of mocassin, fabricated from the hide -of the camel or the ox. All their thoughts, all their desires tended -towards bloodshed and war, and so fierce were their struggles with their -neighbours, so terrible the slaughter, so unmitigated and unrelenting -their animosity, that, according to the forcible expression of the -traveller himself, they deserved rather to be called dogs than men. Nor -was their disposition towards each other more gentle. No man ventured to -step over the threshold of his own door into the street without carrying -a dagger or a spear in his hand: and as they did not appear inclined to -bear their weapons in vain, were restrained by no principles of religion -or justice, and were utterly insensible to pity, cries of “murder!” in -the street were frequent and startling. - -This atrocious stronghold of murderers was situated in the district -over which Sheriff claimed the sovereignty, and his visit to the place -was undertaken in the hope of introducing something like law and -justice. The number of accusations of theft, robbery, and murder was -incredible; and dire was the dissension, the commotion, the noise which -everywhere prevailed. As Sheriff had brought with him neither lawyers nor -magistrates who might undertake to compose their differences, Leo, as a -man learned in the Koran, was earnestly conjured to fulfil this terrible -office. No sooner had he consented than two men rushed in before him, -accusing each other of the most abominable crimes, the one averring that -the other had murdered eight of his relations; and the latter, who by no -means denied the fact, asserting in reply that the former had murdered -_ten_ members of his family, and that, therefore, as the balance was in -his favour, he should, according to the custom of the country, be paid -a certain sum of money for the additional loss he had sustained. The -murderer of ten, on the other hand, argued that it was to him that the -price of blood should be paid, for that the persons whom he had slain -had suffered justly, since they had violently seized upon a farm which -belonged to him, and that he could in no other way gain possession of -his right; while his own relations had fallen the victims of the mere -atrocity of the other murderer. Such were the mutual accusations in which -the first day was consumed. The evening coming on, Leo and the chieftain -retired to rest; but in the dead of the night they were suddenly -awakened by terrific shouts and yells, and springing hastily from their -couches, and running to the window, they saw an immense crowd rushing -into the market-place, and fighting with so much fury and bloodshed, -that to have beheld them the most iron nature must have been shocked; so -that, dreading lest some plot or conspiracy might be hatching against -himself, the chieftain made his escape as rapidly as possible, taking the -traveller along with him. - -From this den they proceeded towards the city of Teijent, and on the way -began to imagine that, according to the vulgar proverb, they had fallen -out of the fryingpan into the fire; for night coming upon them in a -solitary place, where neither village nor caravansary was nigh, Leo and -his companion, who happened to be separated from the chieftain’s army, -were compelled to take refuge in a small wooden house which had fallen -to decay on the road-side. It being extremely hot weather, they fastened -their horses to a post in the lower room, stopping up the gaps in the -enclosure with thorns and bushes, and then retreated to the house-top, -to enjoy as far as possible the freshness of the air. The night was -already far advanced, when two enormous lions, attracted by the scent -of the horses, approached the ruin, and threw them into the greatest -consternation; for the least violence would have shaken down their frail -tenement, and thrown them out into the lions’ mouths, and their horses, -maddened by fear, and shuddering at the terrible voice of the lions, -began to neigh and snort in the most furious manner. To increase their -fears, they heard the ferocious animals striving to tear away the briery -fence with which they had closed up the doors and openings in the wall, -and which they every moment dreaded might at length give way. In this -situation they passed the night; but when the dawn appeared, and light -began to infuse life into the cool landscape, the lions, feeling that -their hour was gone by, retreated to their dens in the forests, and left -the travellers to pursue their journey. - -Having remained a short time at Teijent, he proceeded towards the -north-west through Tesegdeltum to Tagtessa, a city built upon the apex -of a conical hill, where he saw the earth covered by so prodigious a -cloud of locusts that they seemed to outnumber the blades of grass. From -this city he travelled to Eitdevet, where he refreshed himself after -his various toils by conversing with learned Jews and Ulemas on knotty -points of law, and by gazing on the women, whose plump round forms and -rich complexions delighted him exceedingly. To keep up the interest -of his journey, and diversify the scene a little, he was a few days -afterward fired at by the subject of an heretical chief, who inhabited a -mountain fortress, and amused himself with laying true believers under -contribution; but escaped the danger, and succeeded in reaching Tefetne, -a small city on the seashore. Here sufferings of a new kind awaited him. -Not from the people, for they were humane and friendly towards strangers; -but from certain dependants of theirs, whose assiduous attentions made -the three days which Leo spent among these good-natured people appear -to be so many ages. In short, notwithstanding that he was lodged in a -magnificent caravansary, he was nearly stung to death by fleas! The -cause of the extraordinary abundance of these active little animals at -Tefetne, though it seems never to have occurred to our curious traveller, -is discoverable in a circumstance which he accidentally mentions—_the -Portuguese traded to this city_. This likewise may account for another -little peculiarity which distinguished this part from the neighbouring -towns, though not greatly to its advantage: the stench, he tells us, -which diffused itself on all sides, and assaulted the nostrils night and -day, was so powerful that his senses were at length compelled to succumb, -and he retreated before the victorious odour. - -In order somewhat to sweeten his imagination, he now struck off from the -seacoast, where the towns are generally infested by unpleasant smells, in -order to visit those wild tribes that inhabit the western extremity of -Mount Atlas. Here the scenery, sparkling through a peculiarly transparent -atmosphere, was rich, picturesque, and beautiful. Innumerable fountains, -shaded by lofty spreading trees, among which the walnut was conspicuous, -sprung forth from the bosom of the hills, and leaping down over rocks -and precipices amid luxuriant foliage, united in the sunny valleys, -and formed many cool and shining streams. This fertile region was well -stocked with inhabitants—farms and villas everywhere peeping from between -the trees, and refreshing the eye of the traveller. The inhabitants, -however, though clothed superbly, and glittering with rings and other -ornaments of gold and silver, were immersed in the grossest ignorance, -and addicted beyond credibility to every odious and revolting vice. From -thence, after a short stay, he returned towards the coast, and arrived at -Messa, a city surrounded by groves of palm-trees and richly-cultivated -fields, and situated about a mile distant from the sea, close to which -there was a mosque, the beams and rafters of which were formed of the -bones of whales. Here, according to the traditions of the place, the -prophet Jonah was cast on shore by the whale, when he attempted to escape -from the necessity of preaching repentance to the Ninevites; and it is -the opinion of the people, that if any of this species of fish attempt to -swim past this temple along the shore, he is immediately stricken dead -by some miraculous influence of the edifice, and cast up by the waves -upon the beach; and it is certain that many carcasses of these enormous -animals are annually found upon that part of the coast of Morocco, as -also large quantities of amber. - -Proceeding along the shore, and examining whatever appeared deserving -of attention, he once more betook himself to the mountains, where, -among the rude and lawless tribes which inhabited them, he found a more -extraordinary system of manners, and stood a better chance of gratifying -his love of enterprise and adventure. Traversing the savage defiles of -Mount Nififa, whose inhabitants wholly employ themselves in the care of -goats and bees, he arrived at Mount Surede, where he became engaged in -a very whimsical scene. Cut off by their solitary and remote position -from frequent intercourse with the rest of the world, these thick-headed -mountaineers had no conception of law or civilization, no idea of which -ever entered their minds, except when some stranger, distinguished for -his good sense and modest manners, made his appearance among them. Still -they were not, like many of the neighbouring tribes, altogether destitute -of religion; and when Leo arrived, he was received and entertained -by a priest, who set before him the usual food of the inhabitants, a -little barley-meal boiled in water, and goat’s flesh, which might be -conjectured from its toughness to have belonged to some venerable example -of longevity. These savoury viands, which they ate squatted on their -haunches like monkeys, appear to have been so little to the taste of -Leo, that, in order to avoid the impiety of devouring such patriarchal -animals, he resolved to depart next morning at the peep of dawn; but -as he was preparing to mount his beast, about fifty of the inhabitants -crowded about him, and enumerating their grievances and wrongs, requested -him to judge between them. He replied, that he was totally ignorant of -their customs and manners. This, he was told, signified nothing. It was -the custom of the place, that whenever any stranger paid them a visit, he -was constrained before his departure to try and determine all the causes -which, like suits in the Court of Chancery, might have been accumulating -for half a century; and to convince him that they were in earnest, -and would hear of no refusal they forthwith took away his horse, and -requested him to commence operations. Seeing there was no remedy, he -submitted with as good a grace as possible; and during nine days and -nights had his ears perpetually stunned by accusations, pleadings, -excuses, and, what was still worse, was obliged daily to devour the flesh -of animals older than Islamism itself. On the evening of the eighth -day the natives, being greatly satisfied with his mode of distributing -justice, and desirous of encouraging him to complete his Herculean -labours, promised that on the next day he should receive a magnificent -reward; and as he hoped they meant to recompense him with a large sum -of money, the night which separated him from so great a piece of good -fortune seemed an age. The dawn, therefore, had no sooner appeared than -he was stirring; and the people, who were equally in earnest, requesting -him to place himself in the porch of the mosque, made a short speech -after their manner, which being finished, the presents were brought up -with the utmost respect. To his great horror, instead of the gold which -his fancy had been feeding upon, he saw his various clients approach, -one with a cock, another with a quantity of nuts, a third with onions; -while such as meant to be more magnificent brought him a goat. There was, -in fact, no money in the place. Not being able to remove his riches, he -left the goats and onions to his worthy host; and departed with a guard -of fifty soldiers, which his grateful clients bestowed upon him to defend -his person in the dangerous passes through which he had to travel. - -From hence, still proceeding along the lofty mountainous ridge, whose -pinnacles are covered with eternal snow, he repaired to Mount Seusava, a -district inhabited by warlike tribes, who, though engaged in perpetual -hostilities with their neighbours, understood the use of no offensive -arms except the sling, from which, however, they threw stones with -singular force and precision. The food of these gallant emulators of -the ancient Rhodians consisted of barley-meal and honey, to which was -occasionally added a little goat’s flesh. The arts of peace, which -the warriors, perhaps, were too proud or too lazy to cultivate with -any degree of assiduity, were here exercised chiefly by Jews, who -manufactured very good earthenware, reaping-hooks, and horse-shoes. Their -houses were constructed of rough stones, piled upon each other without -cement. Nevertheless, a great number of learned men, whose advice was -invariably taken and followed by the natives, was found here, among -whom Leo met with several who had formerly been his fellow-students at -Fez, and now not only received him with kindness and hospitality, but, -moreover, accompanied him on his departure to a considerable distance -from the mountain. - -He now peacefully pursued his journey; and after witnessing the -various phenomena of these mountain regions, where the date-tree and -the avalanche, the fir and the orange-tree are near neighbours, again -descended into the plainer and more cultivated portion of Morocco, -and after numerous petty adventures, not altogether unworthy of being -recorded, but yet too numerous to find a place here, arrived at -Buluchuan, a small city upon the river Ommirabih. Here travellers were -usually received and entertained with distinguished hospitality, not -being allowed to spend any thing during their stay, while splendid -caravansaries were erected for their reception, and the citizens, whose -munificence was not inferior to their riches, vied with each other in -their attentions and civilities. At the period of Leo’s visit, however, -the city was in a state of the utmost disorder. The King of Fez had sent -his brother with orders to take possession of the whole province of -Duccala; but on his arrival at this city, news was brought him that the -Prince of Azemore was even then upon his march towards the place with -a numerous army, with the intention of demolishing the fortifications, -and carrying away the inhabitants into captivity. Upon receiving -this information, two thousand horse and eight hundred archers were -immediately thrown into Buluchuan; but at the same time arrived a number -of Portuguese soldiers, and two thousand Arabs; the latter of whom, first -attacking the Fezzians, easily routed them, and put the greater number -of the archers to the sword; then turning upon the Portuguese, they cut -off a considerable number of their cavalry, and quickly put them also to -the rout. Shortly after this, the brother of the King of Fez arrived, -and upon undertaking to protect the inhabitants from all enemies to the -latest day of his life, received the tribute which he demanded; but being -worsted in battle, quickly returned to Fez. The people now perceiving -that, notwithstanding the promised protection of the Fezzan king, they -were still exposed to all the calamities of war, and feeling themselves -unequal to contend unassisted with their numerous enemies, and more -particularly dreading the avarice of the Portuguese, deserted their city -and their homes, and took refuge upon the promontory of Tedla. Leo, who -was present during these transactions, and witnessed the slaughter of the -archers, mounted on a swift charger, and keeping at a short distance from -the scene of carnage upon the plain, had been delegated by the monarch of -Fez to announce the speedy arrival of his brother with his forces. - -Some time after this, the King of Fez, once more resolving upon the -reduction of the province, arrived in Duccala with an army, bringing Leo, -who had now risen to considerable distinction at court, along with him. -Arriving at the foot of an eminence of considerable height, denominated -by our traveller the Green Mountain, and which divides Duccala from the -province of Tedla, the monarch, charmed by the beauties of the place, -commanded his tents to be pitched, resolving to spend a few days in -pleasure at that calm and delightful solitude. The mountain itself is -rugged, and well clothed with woods of oak and pine. Among these, remote -from all human intercourse, are the dwellings of numerous hermits, who -subsist upon such wild productions of the earth as the place supplies; -and here and there scattered among the rocks were great numbers of -Mohammedan altars, fountains of water, and ruins of ancient edifices. -Near the base of the mountain there was an extensive lake, resembling -that of Volsinia in Italy, swarming with prodigious numbers of eels, -pikes, and other species of fish, some of which are unknown in Europe. -Mohammed, the Fezzan king, now gave orders for a general attack upon the -fish of the lake. In a moment, turbans, vests, and nether garments, the -sleeves and legs being tied at one end, were transformed into nets, and -lowered into the water; and before their owners could look round them -pikes were struggling and eels winding about in their capacious breeches. -Meanwhile, nineteen thousand horses, and a vast number of camels, plunged -into the lake to drink, so that, says Leo, by a certain figure of speech -not at all uncommon among travellers, there was scarcely any water left; -and the fish were stranded, as it were, in their own dwellings. The sport -was continued for eight days; when, being tired of fishing, Mohammed gave -orders to explore the recesses of the mountain. The borders of the lake -were covered by extensive groves of a species of pine-tree, in which an -incredible number of turtle-doves had built their nests; and these, like -the fishes of the lake, became the prey of the army. Passing through -these groves, the prince and all his troops ascended the mountain. Leo -the while keeping close to his majesty among the doctors and courtiers; -and as often as they passed by any little chapel, Mohammed, keeping in -sight of the whole army, addressed his prayers to the Almighty, calling -Heaven to witness that his only motive in coming to Duccala was to -deliver it from the tyranny of the Christians and Arabs. Returning in the -evening to their tents, they next day proceeded with hounds and falcons, -of which the king possessed great numbers, to hunt the wild duck, the -wild goose, the turtle-dove, and various other species of birds. Their -next expedition was against higher game, such as the hare, the stag, -the fallow-deer, the porcupine, and the wolf, and in this kind of chase -eagles and falcons were employed as well as dogs; and as no person had -beaten up those fields for more than a hundred years, the quantity of -game was prodigious. After amusing himself for several days in this -manner, the prince, attended by his court and army, returned to Fez, -while Leo, with a small body of troops, was despatched upon an embassy to -the Emperor of Morocco. - -On returning from Morocco, after being hospitably entertained at El -Medina, Tagodastum, Bzo, and other cities, he visited the dwelling of -a mountain prince, with whom he spent several days in conversations -on poetry and literature. Though immoderately greedy of praise, his -gentleness, politeness, and liberality rendered him every way worthy of -it; and if he did not understand Arabic, he at least delighted to have -its beauties explained to him, and highly honoured and valued those -who were learned in this copious and energetic language. Our traveller -had visited this generous chieftain several years before. Coming well -furnished with presents, among which was a volume of poetry containing -the praises of celebrated men, and of the prince himself among the rest, -he was magnificently received; the more particularly as he himself had -composed upon the way a small poem on the same agreeable subject, which -he recited to the prince after supper. - -The date of our traveller’s various excursions through the kingdom of -Fez is unknown, but he apparently, like many other travellers, visited -foreign countries before he had examined his own, and I have therefore -placed his adventures in Morocco before those which occurred to him -at home. In an excursion to the seacoast he passed through Anfa, an -extensive city founded by the Romans, on the margin of the ocean, and -in a position so salubrious and agreeable that, taking into account the -generous character and polished manners of the inhabitants, it might -justly be considered the most delightful place in all Africa. From hence -he proceeded through Mansora and Nuchailu to Rabat, once a vast and -splendid city, abounding with palaces, caravansaries, baths, and gardens, -but now, by wars and civil dissensions, reduced to a heap of ruins, -rendered doubly melancholy by the figures of a few wretched inhabitants -who still clung to the spot, and flitted about like spectres among the -dilapidated edifices. The scene, compared with that which the city once -presented, was so generative of sad thought, that on beholding it our -traveller sank into a sombre revery which ended in tears. From this place -he proceeded northward, and passing through many cities, arrived at a -small town called Thajiah, in whose vicinity was the ancient tomb of a -saint, upon which, according to the traditions of the country, a long -catalogue of miracles had been performed, numerous individuals having -been preserved by this tomb, but in what manner is not specified, from -the jaws of lions and other ferocious beasts. The scene is rugged, the -ground steril, the climate severe; yet so high was the veneration in -which the sanctity of the tomb was held, that incredible numbers of -pilgrims resorted thither in consequence of vows made in situations of -imminent danger, and encamping round the holy spot, had the appearance -of an army bivouacking in the wood. - -In the year 1513, having seen whatever he judged most worthy of notice -in Morocco and Fez, and still considering his travels as only begun, -he once more left home, and proceeded eastward along the shores of the -Mediterranean towards Telemsan and Algiers. Upon entering the former -kingdom he abandoned the seacoast, and striking off towards the right, -through mountainous ridges of moderate elevation, entered the wild and -desolate region called the Desert of Angad, where, amid scanty herds -of antelopes, wild goats, and ostriches, the lonely Bedouin wanders, -his hand being against every man, and every man’s hand against him. -Through this desolate tract the merchant bound from Telemsan to Fez -winds his perilous way, dreading the sand-storm, the simoom, the lion, -and other physical ministers of death, less than the fierce passions of -its gloomy possessors, stung to madness by hunger and suffering. Leo, -however, traversed this long waste without accident or adventure, and his -curiosity being satisfied, returned to the inhabited part of the country, -where, if there was less call for romantic and chivalrous daring, there -was at all events more pleasure to be enjoyed, and more knowledge to -be acquired. Passing through various small places little noticed by -modern geographers, he at length arrived at Hunain, an inconsiderable -but handsome city, on the Mediterranean, surrounded by a well-built -wall, flanked with towers. Hither the Venetians, excluded from Oran by -the Spaniards, who were then masters of that port, brought all the rich -merchandise which they annually poured into Telemsan, in consequence -of which chiefly the merchants of Hunain had grown rich; and taste and -more elegant manners following, as usual, in the train of Plutus, the -city was embellished, and the comfort of the inhabitants increased. The -houses, constructed in an airy and tasteful style, with verandahs shaded -by clustering vines, fountains, and floors exquisitely ornamented with -mosaics, were, perhaps, the most agreeable dwellings in Northern Africa; -but the inconstant tide of commerce having found other channels, the -prosperity of Hunain had already begun to decline. - -From hence he proceeded through the ancient Haresgol to the capital, an -extensive city, which, though inferior in size and magnificence to Fez, -was nevertheless adorned with numerous baths, fountains, caravansaries, -and mosques. The prince’s palace, situated in the southern quarter of -the city, and opening on one side into the plain, was surrounded by -delightful gardens, in which a great number of fountains kept up a -perpetual coolness in the air. Issuing forth from the city he observed -on all sides numerous villas, to which the wealthier citizens retired -during the heats of summer; and in the midst of meadows, sprinkled thick -with flowers, whole groves of fruit-trees, such as the orange, the peach, -and the date, and at their feet a profusion of melons and other similar -fruit, the whole forming a landscape of surpassing beauty. The literary -men, the ulemas, the notaries, and the Jews of Telemsan inhabited an -elegant suburb, situated on a hill at a short distance from the city; -and these, as well as all other ranks of men, lead a tranquil and secure -life, under the government of a just and beneficent prince. Here Leo -remained several months as the king’s guest, living sumptuously in the -palace, and otherwise experiencing the liberality of his host. - -On his departure from Telemsan he entered the country of the Beni Rasid, -a tribe of Arabs living under the protection of the King of Telemsan, -and paying him tribute, yet caring little for his authority, and robbing -his guests and servants without compunction, as Leo, on this occasion, -learned to his cost. These rude people were divided into two classes, -the mountaineers and the dwellers on the plain, the latter of whom were -shepherds, living in tents, and feeding immense droves of camels and -cattle, according to the primitive custom of the Bedouins; while the -former, who had erected themselves houses and villages, were addicted to -agriculture, and other useful arts. - -Still proceeding towards the east, he arrived at the large and opulent -town of Batha, which had been but recently erected, in a plain of great -extent and fertility; and as, like Jonah’s gourd, it had sprung up, as -it were, in a night, it soon felt the hot rays of war, and perished -as rapidly. The whole plain had been destitute of inhabitants until a -certain man, whom Leo denominates a hermit, but who in ancient Greece -would have been justly dignified with the name of sage, settled there -with his family. The fame of his piety quickly spread. His flocks and -herds increased rapidly. He paid no tribute to any one; but, on the -contrary, as the circle of his reputation enlarged, gradually embracing -the whole of the surrounding districts, and extending over the whole -Mohammedan world, both in Africa and Asia, presents, which might be -regarded as a tribute paid to virtue, flowed in upon him from all sides, -and rendered him the wealthiest man in the country. His conduct quickly -showed that he deserved his prosperity. Five hundred young men, desirous -of being instructed by him in the ways of religion and morality, flocked -to his camp, as it were became his disciples, and were entertained and -taught by him gratis. When they considered themselves sufficiently -informed, they returned to their homes, carrying with them a high idea -of his wisdom and disinterestedness. Our traveller found on his arrival -about one hundred tents clustered together upon the plain, of which some -were destined for the reception of strangers, others for the shepherds, -and others for the family of the chieftain, which, including his own -wives and female slaves, all of whom were superbly dressed, amounted -to at least five hundred persons. This man was held in the highest -estimation, as well by the Arab tribes in the neighbourhood, as by the -King of Telemsan; and it was the reports which were everywhere spread -concerning his virtues and his piety that induced Leo to pay him a visit. -The behaviour of the chieftain towards his guest, who remained with him -three days, and in all probability might have staid as many months had -he thought proper, was not such as to detract from the idea which the -voice of fame had everywhere circulated of him. However, his learning was -deeply tinctured with the superstitions of the times, consisting for the -most part of an acquaintance with that crabbed and abstruse jargon in -which the mysteries of magic and alchymy were wrapped up from the vulgar, -whose chief merit lying in its extreme difficulty, deluded men into the -pursuit of it, as the meteors of a marsh lead the night-wanderer over -fens and morasses. - -Leaving the camp of the alchymist, our traveller proceeded to Algiers, -where the famous Barbarossa then exercised sovereign power. This city, -originally built by the native Africans, was at first called Mesgana, -from the name of its founder; but afterward, for some reason not now -discoverable, it obtained the appellation of _Geseir_, or the “island,” -which European nations have corrupted into Algiers. Its population in -the time of Leo was four thousand families, which, considering how -families are composed in Mohammedan countries, would at least amount -to sixty thousand souls. The public edifices were large and sumptuous, -particularly the baths, khans, and mosques, which were built in the -most tasteful and striking manner. The northern wall of the city was -washed by the sea, and along the top of it ran a fine terrace or public -promenade, whence the inhabitants might enjoy the prospect of the blue -waves, skimmed by milk-white water-fowl, or studded by innumerable ships -and galleys, perpetually entering or issuing from the port. The houses, -rising one behind another, in rows, upon the side of a lofty hill, all -enjoyed the cool breeze blowing from the Mediterranean, as well as the -pleasing view of its waters. A small river which ran at the eastern -extremity of the city turned numerous mills, and furnished the city with -abundance of pure limpid water; and the vicinity, for several miles -round, was covered with delightful gardens, and corn-fields of prodigious -fertility. Here our traveller remained some time, and it being an -interesting period, the struggles between the Turks and Spaniards having -now approached their close, and the star of Barbarossa rising rapidly, -he no doubt enjoyed the triumph of Islamism, and the humiliation of the -power by which, while an infant, he had been driven from his home. His -host during his stay was a learned and curious person, who had previously -been sent on an embassy into Spain, from whence, with patriotic zeal, he -had brought three thousand Arabian manuscripts. - -From Algiers Leo proceeded to Bugia, where he found Barbarossa, whose -active genius would admit of no relaxation or repose, laying siege to the -fortress; before he had advanced many leagues towards the east, however, -he heard the news of the death of this redoubted chief, who, being cut -off at Telemsan, was succeeded in the sovereignty of Algiers by his -brother Kairaddin. It was at this time that the Emperor Charles V. turned -his victorious arms against Algiers, where, meeting with a severe check -from Barbarossa, part of his chivalry falling on the plain and part being -taken, his pride was humbled and his glory tarnished by the intrepid -valour of a troop of banditti. Proceeding eastward from Bugia through -many towns of inferior note, yet in many instances bearing marks of a -Roman origin, he arrived in a few days at Kosantina, a city undoubtedly -founded by the Romans, and at that period surrounded by strong walls -of black hewn stone, erected by the founders. It was situated upon the -southern slope of a lofty mountain, hemmed round by tremendous rocks, -between which, through a deep and narrow channel, the river Sufegmare -wound round a great portion of the city, forming, as far as it went, a -natural ditch. Two gates only, the one opening towards the rising, the -other towards the setting sun, lead into the place; on the other sides -enormous bastions or inaccessible precipices prohibit all approach to -the city, which at that period was extremely populous, and adorned with -magnificent public buildings, such as monasteries, colleges, and mosques. -The inhabitants, who were a warlike and polished people, carried on an -extensive trade in oil and silk with the Moors of the interior, receiving -in return slaves and dates, the latter of which Leo here found cheaper -and more plentiful than in any other part of Barbary. - -The plain of Kosantina was intersected by a river, and of immense -fertility. Upon this plain numerous structures in an ancient style of -architecture were scattered about, and excellent gardens were planted -on both sides of the stream, to which you descended by steps cut in the -solid rock. Between the city and the river is a Roman triumphal arch, -supposed by the inhabitants to have been an ancient castle, which, as -they affirm, afforded a retreat to innumerable demons, previous to -the Mussulman conquest of the city, when, from respect to the true -believers, they took their departure. In the midst of the stream a very -extraordinary edifice was seen. Pillars, walls, and roof were hewn out -of the rock; but, notwithstanding the singularity of its construction, -it was put to no better use than to shelter the washerwomen of the city. -A very remarkable warm bath, likewise, was found in the vicinity of -Kosantina, around which, attracted by some peculiarity in the soil, -innumerable tortoises were seen, which the women of the place believed to -be demons in disguise, and accused of causing all the fevers and other -diseases by which they might be attacked. A little farther towards the -east, close to a fountain of singular coldness, was a marble structure -adorned with hieroglyphics and enriched with statues, which in the eyes -of the natives were so close a resemblance to life that, to account for -the phenomenon, they invented a legend, according to which this building -was formerly a school, both masters and pupils of which were turned into -marble for their wickedness. - -In his way from Kosantina to Tunis, he passed by two cities, or rather -names of cities, the one immortalized by the prowess and enterprise of -its children, the other by the casual mention of the loftiest of modern -poets; I mean Carthage and Biserta. The former fills all ancient history -with its glory; but the reader would probably never have heard of the -latter but that its name is found in Paradise Lost:— - - And all who since, baptized or infidel, - Jousted in Aspramont or Montalban, - Damasco, or Marocco, or Trebisond, - Or whom _Biserta_ sent from Africk shore, - When Charlemagne with all his peerage fell - By Fontarabia. - -Carthage, though fallen to the lowest depths of misery, still contained -a small number of inhabitants, who concealed their wretchedness amid the -ruins of triumphal arches, aqueducts, and fortifications. Proceeding -westward from Tunis as far as the desert of Barca, and visiting all the -principal towns, whether in the mountains or the plains, without meeting -with any personal adventures which he thought worthy of describing, he -returned to Fez, and prepared for his second journey to Timbuctoo and the -other interior states of Africa. - -Crossing Mount Atlas, and proceeding directly towards the south, he -entered the province of Segelmessa, extending from the town of Garselvin -to the river Ziz, a length of about one hundred and twenty miles. Here -commences that scarcity of water which is the curse of this part of -Africa. Few or no inequalities in the surface of the ground, scanty -traces of cultivation, human habitations occurring at wide intervals, -and, in short, nothing to break the dreary uniformity of the scene but -a few scattered date-palms waving their fanlike leaves over the brown -desert, where at every step the foot was in danger of alighting upon a -scorpion resting in the warm sand. The few streams which creep in winter -over this miserable waste shrink away and disappear before the scorching -rays of the summer sun, which penetrate the soil to a great depth, and -pump up every particle of moisture as far as they reach. Nothing then -remains to the inhabitants but a brackish kind of water, which they -obtain from wells sunk extremely deep in the earth. Near the capital of -this province, which is surrounded by strong walls, and said to have been -founded by the Romans, Leo spent seven months; and except that the air -was somewhat too humid in winter, found the place both salubrious and -agreeable. - -As he advanced farther into the desert, he daily became more and more -of Pindar’s opinion, that of all the elements water is the best,—the -wells becoming fewer, and their produce more scanty. Many of these -pits are lined round with the skins and bones of camels, in order to -prevent the water from being absorbed by the sand, or choked up when the -winds arise, and drive the finer particles in burning clouds over the -desert. When this happens, however, nothing but certain death awaits the -traveller, who is continually reminded of the fate which awaits him by -observing scattered around upon the sand the bones of his predecessors, -or their more recent bodies withered up and blackening in the sun. The -well-known resource of killing a camel for the water contained in his -stomach is frequently resorted to, and sometimes preserves the lives -of the merchants. In crossing this tremendous scene of desolation, Leo -discovered two marble monuments, when or by whom erected he could not -learn, upon which was an epitaph recording the manner in which those who -slept beneath had met their doom. The one was an exceedingly opulent -merchant, the other a person whose business it was to furnish caravans -with water and provisions. On their arriving at this spot, scorched by -the sun, and their entrails tortured by the most excruciating thirst, -there remained but a very small quantity of water between them. The -rich man, whose thirst now made him regard his gold as dirt, purchased -a single cup of this celestial nectar for ten thousand ducats; but that -which might possibly have saved the life of one of them being divided -between both, only served to prolong their sufferings for a moment, as -they here sunk into that sleep from which there is no waking upon earth. - -Yet, strange as it may appear, this inhospitable desert is overrun by -numerous animals, which, therefore, must either be endued by nature with -the power of resisting thirst, or with the instinct to discover springs -of water where man fails. Our traveller was very near participating the -fate of the merchant above commemorated. Day after day they toiled along -the sands without being able to discover one drop of water on their way; -so that the small quantity they had brought with them, which was barely -sufficient for five days, was compelled to serve them for ten. Twelve -miles south of Segelmessa they reached a small castle built in the desert -by the Arabs, but found there nothing but heaps of sand and black stones. -A few orange or lemon-trees blooming in the waste were the only signs -of vegetation which met their eyes until they arrived at Tebelbelt, -or Tebelbert, one hundred miles south of Segelmessa, a city thickly -inhabited, abounding in water and dates. Here the inhabitants employ -themselves greatly in hunting the ostrich, the flesh of which is among -them an important article of food. - -They now proceeded through a country utterly desolate, where a house or a -well of water was not met with above once in a hundred miles, reckoning -from the well of Asanad to that of Arsan, about one hundred and fifty -miles north of Timbuctoo. In the first part of this journey, through what -is called the desert of Zuensiga, numerous bodies of men who had died of -thirst on their way were found lying along the sand, and not a single -well of water was met with during nine days. It were to be wished that -Leo had entered a little more minutely into the description of this part -of his travels, but he dismisses it with the remark that it would have -taken up a whole year to give a full account of what he saw. However, -after a toilsome and dangerous journey, the attempt to achieve which has -cost so many European lives, he reached Timbuctoo for the second time, -the name of the reigning chief or prince being Abubellr Izchia. - -The city of Timbuctoo, the name of which was first given to the kingdom -of which it was the capital only about Leo’s time, is said to have been -founded in the 610th year of the Hejira, by a certain Meusa Suleyman, -about twelve miles from a small arm or branch of the Niger. The houses -originally erected here had now dwindled into small huts built with -chalk and thatched with straw; but there yet remained a mosque built -with stone in an elegant style of architecture, and a palace for which -the sovereigns of Central Africa were indebted to the skill of a native -of Granada. However, the number of artificers, merchants, and cloth -and cotton weavers, who had all their shops in the city, was very -considerable. Large quantities of cloth were likewise conveyed thither -by the merchants of Barbary. The upper class of women wore veils, but -servants, market-women, and others of that description exposed their -faces. The citizens were generally very rich, and merchants were so -highly esteemed, that the king thought it no derogation to his dignity -to give his two daughters in marriage to two men of this rank. Wells -were here numerous, the water of which was extremely sweet; and during -the inundation, the water of the Niger was introduced into the city by -a great number of aqueducts. The country was rich in corn, cattle, and -butter; but salt, which was brought from the distance of five hundred -miles, was so scarce, that Leo saw one camel-load sold while he was -there for eighty pieces of gold. The king was exceedingly rich for those -times, and kept up a splendid court. Whenever he went abroad, whether -for pleasure or to war, he always rode upon a camel, which some of the -principal nobles of his court led by the bridle. His guard consisted -entirely of cavalry. When any of his subjects had occasion to address -him, he approached the royal presence in the most abject manner, then, -falling prostrate on the ground, and sprinkling dust upon his head and -shoulders, explained his business; and in this manner even strangers -and the ambassadors of foreign princes were compelled to appear before -him. His wars were conducted in the most atrocious manner; poisoned -arrows being used, and such as escaped those deadly weapons and were -made prisoners were sold for slaves in the capital; even such of his -own subjects as failed to pay their tribute being treated in the same -manner. Horses were extremely rare. The merchants and courtiers made -use of little ponies when travelling, the noble animals brought thither -from Barbary being chiefly purchased by the king, who generally paid a -great price for them. Leo seems to have been astonished at finding no -Jews at Timbuctoo; but his majesty was so fierce an enemy to the Hebrew -race, that he not only banished them his dominions, but made it a crime -punishable with confiscation of property to have any commerce with them. -Timbuctoo at this period contained a great number of judges, doctors, -priests, and learned men, all of whom were liberally provided for by the -prince; and an immense number of manuscripts were annually imported from -Barbary, the trade in books being, in fact, the most lucrative branch -of commerce. Their gold money, the only kind coined in the country, was -without image or superscription; but those small shells, still current -on the Coromandel and Malabar coasts, and in the islands of the Indian -Ocean, under the name of _cowries_, were used in small transactions, -four hundred of them being equivalent to a piece of gold. Of these gold -pieces, six and two-thirds weighed an ounce. The inhabitants, a mild and -gentle race, spent a large portion of their time in singing, dancing, -and festivities, which they were enabled to do by the great number of -slaves of both sexes which they maintained. The city was extremely liable -to conflagrations, almost one-half of the houses having been burnt down -between the first and second visits of our traveller,—a space of not more -than eleven or twelve years. Neither gardens nor fruit-trees adorned the -environs. - -This account of the state of Timbuctoo in the beginning of the sixteenth -century I have introduced, that the reader might be able to compare it -with the modern descriptions of Major Laing and Caillé, and thus discover -the amount of the progress which the Mohammedans of Central Africa have -made towards civilization. I suspect, however, that whatever may now be -the price of salt, the book trade has not increased; and that whether the -natives dance more or less than formerly, they are neither so gentle in -their manners nor so wealthy in their possessions. - -From Timbuctoo Leo proceeded to the town of Cabra on the Niger, which -was then supposed to discharge its waters into the Atlantic; for the -merchants going to the coast of Guinea embarked upon the river at this -place, whence they dropped down the stream to the seashore. Still -travelling southward, he arrived at a large city without walls, which he -calls Gajo, four hundred miles from Timbuctoo. Excepting the dwellings of -the prince and his courtiers, the houses were mere huts, though many of -the merchants are said to have been wealthy, while an immense concourse -of Moors and other strangers flocked thither to purchase the cloths and -other merchandise of Barbary and Europe. The inhabitants of the villages -and the shepherds, by far the greater portion of the population, lived in -extreme misery, and, poverty extinguishing all sense of decorum, went so -nearly naked, that even the distinctions of sex were scarcely concealed. -In winter they wrapped themselves in the skins of animals, and wore a -rude kind of sandal manufactured from camel’s hide. - -This was the term of Leo’s travels towards the south. He now turned his -face towards the rising sun, and proceeding three hundred miles in that -direction, amid the dusky and barbarous tribes who crouch beneath the -weight of tyranny and ignorance in that part of Africa, arrived in the -kingdom of Guber, having on the way crossed a desert of considerable -extent, which commences about forty miles beyond the Niger. The whole -country was a plain, inundated in the rainy season by the Niger, and -surrounded by lofty mountains. Agriculture and the useful arts were here -cultivated with activity. Flocks and cattle abounded, but their size -was extremely diminutive. The sandal worn by the inhabitants exactly -resembled that of the ancient Romans. From hence he proceeded to Agad, -a city and country tributary to Timbuctoo, inhabited by the fairest -negroes of all Africa. The inhabitants of the towns possessed excellent -houses, constructed after the manner of those of Barbary; but the -peasants and shepherds of the south were nomadic hordes, living, like -the Carir of the Deccan, in large baskets, or portable wicker huts. He -next arrived at Kanoo, five hundred miles east of the Niger, a country -inhabited by tribes of farmers and herdsmen, and abounding in corn, -rice, and cotton. Among the cultivated fields many deserts, however, -and wood-covered mountains were interspersed. In these woods the orange -and the lemon were found in great plenty. The houses of the town of -Kanoo, like those of Timbuctoo, were built of chalk. Proceeding eastward -through a country infested by gipsies, occasionally turning aside to -visit more obscure regions, he at length arrived at Bornou, a kingdom of -great extent, bounded on the north and south by deserts, on the west by -Gnagera, and on the east by an immense country, denominated Gaoga by Leo, -but known at present by the various names of Kanem, Begharmi, Dar Saley, -Darfur, and Kordofan. - -The scenery and produce of Bornou were exceedingly various. Mountains, -valleys, plains, and deserts alternating with each other composed a -prospect of striking aspect; and the population, consisting of wild -soldiers, merchants, artisans, farmers, herdsmen, and shepherds, some -glittering with arms, or wrapped in ample drapery, others nearly as naked -as when they left the womb, appeared no less picturesque or strange. -Leo’s stay in this country was short, and the persons from whom he -acquired his information must have been either ignorant or credulous; -for, according to them, no vestige of religion existed among the people -(which is not true of any nation on earth), while the women and children -were possessed by all men in common. Proper names were not in use. -When persons spoke of their neighbours, they designated them from some -corporeal or mental quality, as tallness, fatness, acuteness, bravery, -or stupidity. The chief’s revenue consisted of the tenth of the produce -of the soil, and of such captives and spoil as he could take in war. -Slaves were here so plentiful, and horses so scarce, that twenty men were -sometimes given in exchange for one of those animals. The prince then -reigning, a narrow-minded and avaricious man, had contrived by various -means to amass immense riches; his bits, his spurs, his cups, and vases -were all of gold; but whenever he purchased any article from a foreign -merchant, he preferred paying with slaves rather than with money. - -From Bornou he proceeded through Gaoga towards Nubia, and approached -those regions of the Nile where, amid poverty and barbarism, the -civilization of the old world has left so many indestructible traces of -the gigantic ideas which throw their shadows over the human imagination -in the dawn of time. Coming up to the banks of the mysterious river, -around the sources of which curiosity has so long flitted in vain, he -found the stream so shallow in many places that it could be easily -forded; but whether on account of its immense spread in those parts, -or the paucity of water, he does not inform us. Dongola, or Dangala, -the capital, though consisting of mere chalk huts thatched with straw, -contained at that period no less than one hundred and fifty thousand -inhabitants. The people, who were rich and enterprising, held knowledge -in the highest esteem. No other city, however, existed in the country; -the remainder of the population, chiefly or wholly occupied in the -culture of the soil, living in scattered villages or hamlets. Grain -was extremely plentiful, as was also the sugarcane, though its use and -value were unknown; and immense quantities of ivory and sandal-wood -were exported. However, at this period, the most remarkable produce of -Nubia was a species of violent poison, the effect of which was little -less rapid than that of prussic acid, since the tenth part of a grain -would prove mortal to a man in a few minutes, while a grain would cause -instantaneous death. The price of an ounce of this deleterious drug, -the nature of which is totally unknown, was one hundred pieces of gold; -but it was sold to foreigners only, who, when they purchased it, were -compelled to make oath that no use should be made of it in Nubia. A sum -equal to the price of the article was paid to the sovereign, and to -dispose of the smallest quantity without his knowledge was death, if -discovered; but whether the motive to this severity was fiscal or moral -is not stated. The Nubians were engaged in perpetual hostilities with -their neighbours, their principal enemy being a certain Ethiopian nation, -whose sovereign, according to Leo, was that Prester John so famous in -that and the succeeding ages; a despicable and wretched race, speaking -an unknown jargon, and subsisting upon the milk and flesh of camels, and -such wild animals as their deserts produced. Leo, however, evidently saw -but little of Nubia; for though by no means likely to have passed such -things over without notice had they been known to him, he never once -alludes to the ruins of Meloë, the temples and pyramids of Mount Barkal, -or those enormous statues, obelisks, and other monuments which mark the -track of ancient civilization down the course of the Nile, and present to -the eye of the traveller one of the earliest cradles of our race. - -From this country he proceeded to Egypt, and paused a moment on his -journey to contemplate the ruins of Thebes, a city, the founding of -which some of his countrymen attributed to the Greeks, others to the -Romans. Some fourteen or fifteen hundred peasants were found creeping -like pismires at the foot of the gigantic monuments of antiquity. They -ate good dates, grapes, and rice, however, and the women, who were lovely -and well-formed, rejoiced the streets with their gayety. At Cairo, -where he seems to have made a considerable stay, he saw many strange -things, all of which he describes with that conciseness and _naïveté_ for -which most of our older travellers are distinguished. Walking one day -by the door of a public bath, in the market-place of Bain Elcasraim, he -observed a lady of distinction, and remarkable for her beauty, walking -out into the streets, which she had no sooner done than she was seized -and violated before the whole market by one of those naked saints who -are so numerous in Egypt and the other parts of Africa. The magistrates -of the city, who felt that their own wives might next be insulted, were -desirous of inflicting condign punishment upon the wretch, but were -deterred by fear of the populace, who held such audacious impostors in -veneration. On her way home after this scene, the woman was followed by -an immense multitude, who contended with each other for the honour of -touching her clothes, as if some peculiar virtue had been communicated to -them by the touch of the saint; and even her husband, when informed of -what had happened, expressed the greatest joy, and thanking God as if an -extraordinary blessing had been conferred upon his family, made a great -entertainment and distributed alms to the poor, who were thus taught to -look upon such events as highly fortunate. - -Upon another occasion Leo, returning from a celebrated mosque in one -of the suburbs, beheld another curious scene no less characteristic -of the manners of the times. In the area before a palace erected by a -Mameluke sultan, an immense populace was assembled, in the midst of whom -a troop of strolling players, with dancing camels, asses, and dogs, were -exhibiting their tricks, to the great entertainment of the mob, and even -of our traveller himself, who thought it a very pleasant spectacle. -Having first exhibited his own skill, the principal actor turned round -to the ass, and muttering certain words, the animal fell to the ground, -turning up his feet, swelling and closing his eyes as if at the last -gasp. When he appeared to be completely dead, his master, turning round -to the multitude, lamented the loss of his beast, and hoped they would -have pity upon his misfortune. When he had collected what money he -could,—“You suppose,” says he, “that my ass is dead. Not at all. The poor -fellow, well knowing the poverty of his master, has merely been feigning -all this while, that I might acquire wherewith to provide provender -for him.” Then approaching the ass, he ordered him to rise, but not -being obeyed, he seized a stick, and belaboured the poor creature most -unmercifully. Still no signs of life appeared. “Well,” said the man, once -more addressing the people, “you must know, that the sultan has issued an -order that to-morrow by break of day the whole population of Cairo are to -march out of the city to behold a grand triumph, the most beautiful women -being mounted upon asses, for whom the best oats and Nile water will be -provided.” At these words the ass sprang upon his feet with a bound, and -exhibiting tokens of extreme joy. “Ah, ha!” continued the mountebank; “I -have succeeded, have I? Well, I was about to say that I had hired this -delicate animal of mine to the principal magistrate of the city for his -little ugly old wife.” The ass, as if possessed of human feelings, now -hung his ears, and began to limp about as if lame of one foot. Then the -man said, “You imagine, I suppose, that the young women will laugh at -you.” The ass bent down his head, as if nodding assent. “Come, cheer up,” -exclaimed his master, “and tell me which of all the pretty women now -present you like best!” The animal, casting his eyes round the circle, -and selecting one of the prettiest, walked up to her, and touched her -with his head; at which the delighted multitude with roars of laughter -exclaimed, “Behold the ass’s wife!” At these words, the man sprang upon -his beast and rode away. - -The ladies of Cairo, when they went abroad, affected the most superb -dresses, adorning their necks and foreheads with clusters of brilliant -gems, and wearing upon their heads lofty hurlets or coifs shaped like -a tube, and of the most costly materials. Their cloaks or mantles, -exquisitely embroidered, they covered with a piece of beautiful Indian -muslin, while a thick black veil, thrown over all, enabled them to -see without being seen. These elegant creatures, however, were very -bad wives; for, disdaining to pay the slightest attention to domestic -affairs, their husbands, like the citizens of modern Paris, were obliged -to purchase their dinners ready dressed from restaurateurs. They enjoyed -the greatest possible liberty, riding about wherever they pleased upon -asses, which they preferred to horses for the easiness of their motions. -Here and there among the crowd you heard the strange cry of those old -female practitioners who performed the rite which introduced those of -their own sex into the Mohammedan church, though their words, as the -traveller observes, were not extremely intelligible. - -From Egypt Leo travelled into Arabia, Persia, Tartary, and Turkey, but -of his adventures in these countries no account remains. On returning -from Constantinople, however, by sea, he was taken by Christian corsairs -off the island of Zerbi, on the coast of Tripoli, and being carried -captive into Italy, was presented to Pope Leo X. at Rome, in 1517. The -pope, who, as is well known, entertained the highest respect for every -thing which bore the name of learning, no sooner discovered that the -Moorish slave was a person of merit and erudition, than he treated him -in the most honourable manner, settled upon him a handsome pension, and -having caused him to be instructed in the principles of the Christian -religion, had him baptized, and bestowed upon him his own name, Leo. -Our traveller now resided principally at Rome, occasionally quitting -it, however, for Bologna; and having at length acquired a competent -knowledge of the Italian language, became professor of Arabic. Here he -wrote his famous “Description of Africa,” originally in Arabic, but he -afterward either rewrote or translated it into Italian. What became of -him or where he resided after the death of his munificient patron is not -certainly known.—One of the editions of Ramusio asserts that he died -at Rome; but according to Widmanstadt, a learned German orientalist of -the sixteenth century, he retired to Tunis, where, as is usual in such -cases, he returned to his original faith, which he never seems inwardly -to have abandoned. Widmanstadt adds, that had he not been prevented by -circumstances which he could not control, he should have undertaken a -voyage to Africa expressly for the purpose of conversing with our learned -traveller, so great was his admiration of his genius and acquirements. - -With respect to the work by which he will be known to posterity, and -which has furnished the principal materials for the present life,—his -“Description of Africa,”—its extraordinary merit has been generally -acknowledged. Eyriès, Hartmann, and Bruns, whose testimony is of -considerable weight, speak of it in high terms; and Ramusio, a competent -judge, observes, that up to his time no writer had described Africa with -so much truth and exactness. In fact, no person can fail, in the perusal -of this deeply interesting and curious work, to perceive the intimate -knowledge of his subject possessed by the author, or his capacity to -describe what he had seen with perspicuity and ease. The best edition -of the Latin version, the one I myself have used, and that which is -generally quoted or referred to, is the one printed by the Elzevirs, at -Leyden, in 1632. It has been translated into English, French, and German, -but with what success I am ignorant. - - - - -PIETRO DELLA VALLE. - -Born 1586.—Died 1652. - - -Pietro della Valle, who, according to Southey, is “the most romantic in -his adventures of all true travellers,” was descended from an ancient -and noble family, and born at Rome on the 11th of April, 1586. When his -education, which appears to have been carefully conducted and liberal, -was completed, he addicted himself, with that passionate ardour which -characterized all the actions of his life, to the study of literature, -and particularly poetry; but the effervescence of his animal spirits -requiring some other vent, he shortly afterward exchanged the closet -for the camp, in the hope that the quarrel between the pope and the -Venetians, and the troubles which ensued upon the death of Henry IV. of -France, would afford him some opportunity of distinguishing himself. His -expectations being disappointed, however, he in 1611 embarked on board -the Spanish fleet, then about to make a descent on the coast of Barbary; -but nothing beyond a few skirmishes taking place, he again beheld his -desire of glory frustrated, and returned to Rome. - -Here vexations of another kind awaited him. Relinquishing the services -of Fame for that of an earthly mistress, he found himself no less -unsuccessful, the lady preferring some illustrious unknown, whose name, -like her own, is now overwhelmed with “the husks and formless ruin of -oblivion.” Pietro, however, severely felt the sting of such a rejection; -and in the gloomy meditations which it gave birth to, conceived a plan -which, as he foresaw, fulfilled his most ambitious wishes, and attached -an imperishable reputation to his name. The idea was no sooner conceived -than he proceeded to put it in execution, and taking leave of his friends -and of Rome, repaired to Naples, in order to consult with his friend, -Mario Schipano, a physician of that city, distinguished for his oriental -learning and abilities, concerning the best means of conducting his -hazardous enterprise. Fortunately he possessed sufficient wealth to spurn -the counsel of sloth and timidity, which, when any act of daring is -proposed, are always at hand, disguised as prudence and good sense, to -cast a damp upon the springs of energy, or to travesty and misrepresent -the purposes of the bold. Pietro, however, was not to be intimidated. The -wonders and glories of the East were for ever present to his imagination, -and having heard mass, and been solemnly clothed by the priest with -the habit of a pilgrim, he proceeded to Venice in order to embark for -Constantinople. The ship in which he sailed left the port on the 6th of -June, 1614. No event of peculiar interest occurred during the voyage, -which, lying along the romantic shores and beautiful islands of Greece, -merely served to nourish and strengthen Pietro’s enthusiasm. On drawing -near the Dardanelles the sight of the coast of Troy, with its uncertain -ruins and heroic tombs, over which poetry has spread an atmosphere -brighter than any thing belonging to mere physical nature, awoke all the -bright dreams of boyhood, and hurrying on shore, his heart overflowing -with rapture, he kissed the earth from which, according to tradition, the -Roman race originally sprung. - -From the Troad to Constantinople the road lies over a tract hallowed by -the footsteps of antiquity, and at every step Pietro felt his imagination -excited by some memorial of the great of other days. On arriving at -the Ottoman capital, where he purposed making a long stay, one of his -first cares was to acquire a competent knowledge of the language of the -country, which he did as much for the vanity, as he himself acknowledges, -of exhibiting his accomplishments on his return to Italy, where the -knowledge of that language was rare, as for the incalculable benefit -which must accrue from it during his travels. Here he for the first time -tasted coffee, at that time totally unknown in Italy. He was likewise -led to entertain hopes of being able to obtain from the sultan’s library -a complete copy of the Decades of Livy; but after flitting before him -some time like a phantom, the manuscript vanished, and the greater -portion of the mighty Paduan remained veiled as before. While he was -busily engaged in these researches, the plague broke out, every house in -Galata, excepting that of the French ambassador, in which he resided, was -infected; corpses and coffins met the sickened eye wherever it turned; -the chief of his attendants pined away through terror; and, although at -first he affected to laugh and make merry with his fears, they every -day fed so abundantly upon horrors and rumours of horrors, that they at -length became an overmatch for his philosophy, and startled him with -the statement that one hundred and forty thousand victims had already -perished, and that peradventure Pietro della Valle might be the next. - -This consideration caused him to turn his eye towards Egypt; and although -the plague shortly afterward abated, his love of motion having been -once more awakened, he bade adieu to Constantinople, and sailed for -Alexandria. Arriving in Egypt, he ascended the Nile to Cairo, viewed the -pyramids, examined the mummy-pits; and then, with a select number of -friends and attendants, departed across the desert to visit Horeb and -Sinai, the wells of Moses, and other places celebrated in the Bible. -This journey being performed in the heart of winter, he found Mount -Sinai covered with snow, which did not, however, prevent his rambling -about among its wild ravines, precipices, and chasms; when, his pious -curiosity being gratified, he visited Ælau or Ailoth, the modern Akaba, -and returned by Suez to Cairo. Among the very extraordinary things he -beheld in this country were a man and woman upwards of eight feet in -height, natives of Upper Egypt, whom he measured himself: and tortoises -as large as the body of a carriage! - -His stay in Egypt was not of long continuance, the longing to visit -the Holy Land causing him to regard every other country with a kind of -disdain; and accordingly, joining a small caravan which was proceeding -thither across the desert, he journeyed by El Arish and Gaza to -Jerusalem. After witnessing the various mummeries practised in the Holy -City at Easter by the Roman Catholics, and making an excursion to the -banks of the Jordan, where he saw a number of female pilgrims plunging -naked into the sacred stream in the view of an immense multitude, he -bent his steps towards Northern Syria, and hurried forward by the way -of Damascus to Aleppo. In this city he remained some time, his body -requiring some repose, though the ardour and activity of his mind -appeared to be every day increasing. The journey which he now meditated -across the Arabian Desert into Mesopotamia required considerable -preparation. The mode of travelling was new. Horses were to be exchanged -for camels; the European dress for that of the East; and instead of the -sun, the stars and the moon were to light them over the waste. - -He was now unconsciously touching upon the most important point of his -career. In the caravan with which he departed from Aleppo, September -16, 1616, there was a young merchant of Bagdad, with whom, during the -journey, he formed a close intimacy. This young man was constantly in -the habit of entertaining him, as they rode along side by side through -the moonlight, or when they sat down in their tent during the heat of -the day, with the praises of a young lady of Bagdad, who, according to -his description, to every charm of person which could delight the eye -united all those qualities of heart and mind which render the conquests -of beauty durable. It was clear to Pietro from the beginning that the -youthful merchant was in love, and therefore he at first paid but little -regard to his extravagant panegyrics; but by degrees the conversations of -his companion produced a sensible effect upon his own mind, so that his -curiosity to behold the object of so much praise, accompanied, perhaps, -by a slight feeling of another kind, at length grew intense, and he every -day looked upon the slow march of the camels, and the surface of the -boundless plain before him, with more and more impatience. The wandering -Turcoman with his flocks and herds, rude tent, and ruder manners, -commanded much less attention than he would have done at any other -period; and even the Bedouins, whose sharp lances and keen scimitars kept -awake the attention of the rest of the caravan, were almost forgotten by -Pietro. However, trusting to the information of his interested guide, he -represents them as having filled up the greater number of the wells in -the desert, so that there remained but a very few open, and these were -known to those persons only whose profession it was to pilot caravans -across this ocean of sand. The sagacity with which these men performed -their duty was wonderful. By night the stars served them for guides; -but when these brilliant signals were swallowed up in the light of the -sun, they then had recourse to the slight variations in the surface of -the plain, imperceptible to other eyes, to the appearance or absence of -certain plants, and even to the smell of the soil, by all which signs -they always knew exactly where they were. - -At length, after a toilsome and dangerous march of fifteen days, they -arrived upon the banks of the Euphrates, a little after sunrise, and -pitched their tents in the midst of clumps of cypress and small -cedar-trees. On the following night, as soon as the moon began to -silver over the waters of the Euphrates, the caravan again put itself -in motion; and, descending along the course of the stream, in six days -arrived at Anah, a city of the Arabs, lying on both sides of the river, -whose broad surface is here dotted with numerous small islands covered -with fruit-trees. They now crossed the river; and the merchants of the -caravan, avoiding the safe and commodious road which lay through towns in -which custom-house officers were found, struck off into a desolate and -dangerous route, traversing Mesopotamia nearly in a right line, and on -the 19th of October reached the banks of the Tigris, a larger and more -rapid river than the Euphrates, though on this occasion Pietro thought -its current less impetuous. The night before they entered Bagdad the -caravan was robbed in a very dexterous manner. Their tents were pitched -in the plain, the officers of the custom-house posted around to prevent -smuggling; the merchants, congratulating themselves that they had already -succeeded in eluding the duties almost to the extent of their desires, -had fallen into the sound sleep which attends on a clear conscience; and -Pietro, his domestics, and the other inmates of the caravan had followed -their example. In the dead of the night the camp was entered by stealth, -the tents rummaged, and considerable booty carried off. The banditti, -entering Pietro’s tent, and finding all asleep, opened the trunk in which -were all the manuscripts, designs, and plans he had made during his -travels, carefully packed up, as if for the convenience of robbers, in a -small portable escrutoire; but by an instinct which was no less fortunate -for them than for the traveller and posterity, since such spoil could -have been of no value to them, they rejected the escrutoire, and selected -all our traveller’s fine linen, the very articles in which he hoped -to have captivated the beauty whose eulogies had so highly inflamed -his imagination. A Venetian, who happened to be in the camp, had his -arquebuse stolen from under his head, and this little incident, as it -tended to show that the robbers had made still more free with others than -with him, somewhat consoled Pietro for the loss of his linen. As the -traveller does not himself attach any suspicion to the military gentlemen -of the custom-house, it might, perhaps, be uncharitable to deposite the -burden of this theft upon their shoulders; but in examining all the -circumstances of the transaction, I confess the idea that their ingenuity -was concerned did present itself to me. - -Next morning the beams of the rising sun, gleaming upon a thousand -slender minarets and lofty-swelling domes surmounted by gilded crescents, -discovered to him the ancient city of the califs stretching away right -and left to a vast distance over the plain, while the Tigris, like a huge -serpent, rolled along, cutting the city into two parts, and losing itself -among the sombre buildings which seemed to tremble over its waters. The -camels were once more loaded, and the caravan, stretching itself out into -one long, narrow column, toiled along over the plain, and soon entered -the dusty, winding streets of Bagdad. Here Pietro, whose coming had been -announced the evening before by his young commercial companion, was met -by the father of the Assyrian beauty, a fine patriarchal-looking old -man, who entreated him to be his guest during his stay in Mesopotamia. -This favour Pietro declined, but at the same time he eagerly accepted -of the permission to visit at his house; and was no sooner completely -established in his own dwelling than he fully availed himself of this -permission. - -The family to which he became thus suddenly known was originally of -Mardin, but about fourteen years previously had been driven from thence -by the Kurds, who sacked and plundered the city, and reduced such of the -inhabitants as they could capture to slavery. They were Christians of -the Nestorian sect; but Della Valle, who was a bigot in his way, seems -to have regarded them as aliens from the church of Christ. However, -this circumstance did not prevent the image of Sitti Maani, the eldest -of the old man’s daughters, and the beauty of whom he had heard so -glowing a description in the desert, from finding its way into his -heart, though the idea of marrying having occurred to him at Aleppo, he -had written home to his relations to provide him with a suitable wife -against his return to Italy. Maani was now in her eighteenth year. Her -mind had been as highly cultivated as the circumstances of the times -and the country would allow; and her understanding enabled her to turn -all her accomplishments to advantage. In person, she was a perfect -oriental beauty; dark, even in the eyes of an Italian, with hair nearly -black, and eyes of the same colour, shaded by lashes of unusual length, -she possessed something of an imperial air. Pietro was completely -smitten, and for the present every image but that of Maani seemed to be -obliterated from his mind. - -His knowledge of the Turkish language was now of the greatest service to -him; for, possessing but a very few words of Arabic, this was the only -medium by which he could make known the colour of his thoughts either -to his mistress or her mother. His passion, however, supplied him with -eloquence, and by dint of vehement protestations, in this instance the -offspring of genuine affection, he at length succeeded in his enterprise, -and Maani became his wife. But in the midst of these transactions, when -it most imported him to remain at Bagdad, an event occurred in his -own house which not only exposed him to the risk of being driven with -disgrace from the city, but extremely endangered his life and that of all -those who were connected with him. His secretary and valet having for -some time entertained a grudge against each other, the former, one day -seizing the khanjar, or dagger, of Pietro, stabbed his adversary to the -heart, and the poor fellow dropped down dead in the arms of his master. -The murderer fled. What course to pursue under such circumstances it -was difficult to determine. Should the event come to the knowledge of -the pasha, both master and servants might, perhaps, be thought equally -guilty, and be impaled alive; or, if matters were not pushed to such -extremities, it might at least be pretended that the deceased was the -real owner of whatever property they possessed, in order to confiscate -the whole for the benefit of the state. As neither of these results was -desirable, the safest course appeared to be to prevent, if possible, the -knowledge of the tragedy from transpiring; a task of some difficulty, as -all the domestics of the household were acquainted with what had passed. -The only individual with whom Pietro could safely consult upon this -occasion (for he was unwilling to disclose so horrible a transaction to -Maani’s relations) was a Maltese renegade, a man of some consideration in -the city; and for him, therefore, he immediately despatched a messenger. -This man, when he had heard what had happened, was of opinion that the -body should be interred in a corner of the house; but Pietro, who had -no desire that so bloody a memorial of the Italian temperament should -remain in his immediate neighbourhood, and moreover considered it unsafe, -thought it would be much better at the bottom of the Tigris. The Maltese, -most fortunately, possessed a house and garden on the edge of the river, -and thither the body, packed up carefully in a chest, was quickly -conveyed, though there was much difficulty in preventing the blood from -oozing out, and betraying to its bearers the nature of their burden. -When it was dark the chest was put on board a boat, and, dropping down -the river, the renegade and two of his soldiers cautiously lowered it -into the water; and thus no material proof of the murder remained. The -assassin, who had taken refuge at the house of the Maltese, was enabled -to return to Italy; and the event, strange to say, was kept secret, -though so many persons were privy to it. - -When this danger was over, and the beautiful Maani irrevocably his, -Pietro began once more to feel the passion of the traveller revive, and -commenced those little excursions through Mesopotamia which afterward -enabled Gibbon to pronounce him the person who had best observed that -province. His first visit, as might be expected, was to the ruins of -Babylon. The party with which he left Bagdad consisted of Maani, a -Venetian, a Dutch painter, Ibrahim a native of Aleppo, and two Turkish -soldiers. For the first time since the commencement of his travels, -Pietro now selected the longest and least dangerous road, taking care, -moreover, to keep as near as possible to the farms and villages, in -order, in case of necessity, to derive provisions and succour from their -inhabitants. Maani, who appears to have had a dash of Kurdish blood in -her, rode astride like a man, and kept her saddle as firmly as any son -of the desert could have done; and Pietro constantly moved along by her -side. When they had performed a considerable portion of their journey, -and, rejoicing in their good fortune, were already drawing near Babylon, -eight or ten horsemen armed with muskets and bows and arrows suddenly -appeared in the distance, making towards them with all speed. Pietro -imagined that the day for trying his courage was now come; and he and his -companions, having cocked their pieces and prepared to offer a desperate -resistance, pushed on towards the enemy. However, their chivalric spirit -was not doomed to be here put to the test; for, upon drawing near, the -horsemen were found to belong to Bagdad, and the adventure concluded in -civility and mutual congratulations. - -Having carefully examined the ruins of Babylon, the city of Hillah, and -the other celebrated spots in that neighbourhood, the party returned to -Bagdad, from whence he again departed in a few days for Modain, the site -of the ancient Ctesiphon, near which he had the satisfaction of observing -the interior of an Arab encampment. - -His curiosity respecting Mesopotamia was now satisfied; and as every -day’s residence among the Ottomans only seemed more and more to inflame -his hatred of that brutal race, he as much as possible hastened his -departure from Bagdad, having now conceived the design of serving as a -volunteer in the armies of Persia, at that period at war with Turkey, and -of thus wreaking his vengeance upon the Osmanlees for the tyranny they -exercised on all Christians within their power. Notwithstanding that war -between the two countries had long been declared, the Pasha of Bagdad -and the Persian authorities on the frontier continued openly to permit -the passage of caravans; and thus, were he once safe out of Bagdad with -his wife and treasures, there would be no difficulty in entering Persia. -To effect this purpose he entered into an arrangement with a Persian -muleteer, who was directed to obtain from the pasha a passport for -himself and followers, with a charosh to conduct them to the extremity -of the Turkish dominions. This being done, the Persian, according to -agreement, left the city, and encamped at a short distance from the -walls, where, as is the custom, he was visited by the officers of the -custom-house; after which, Pietro caused the various individuals of his -own small party to issue forth by various streets into the plain, while -he himself, dressed as he used to be when riding out for amusement on the -banks of the Tigris, quitted the town after sunset, and gained the place -of encampment in safety. - -When the night had now completely descended upon the earth, and all -around was still, the little caravan put itself in motion; and being -mounted, some on good sturdy mules, and others on the horses of the -country, they advanced at a rapid rate, fearing all the way that the -pasha might repent of his civility towards the Persian, and send an order -to bring them back to the city. By break of day they arrived on the -banks of the Diala, a river which discharges itself into the Tigris; and -here, in spite of their impatience, they were detained till noon, there -being but one boat at the ferry. In six days they reached the southern -branches of the mountains of Kurdistan, and found themselves suddenly in -the midst of that wild and hardy race, which, from the remotest ages, has -maintained possession of these inexpugnable fastnesses, which harassed -the ten thousand in their retreat, and still enact a conspicuous part -in all the border wars between the Persians and Turks. Living for the -most part in a dangerous independence, fiercely spurning the yoke of its -powerful neighbours, though continually embroiled in their interminable -quarrels, speaking a distinct language, and having a peculiar system of -manners, which does not greatly differ from that of the feudal times, -they may justly be regarded as one of the most extraordinary races of -the Asiatic continent. Some of them, spellbound by the allurements of -wealth and ease, have erected cities and towns, and addicted themselves -to agriculture and the gainful arts. Others, preferring that entire -liberty which of all earthly blessings is the greatest in the estimation -of ardent and haughty minds, and regarding luxury as a species of Circean -cup, in its effects debasing and destructive, covet no wealth but their -herds and flocks, around which they erect no fortifications but their -swords. These are attracted hither and thither over the wilds by the -richness of the pasturage, and dwell in tents. - -In Kurdistan, as elsewhere, the winning manners of Della Valle procured -him a hospitable reception. The presence of Maani, too, whose youth -and beauty served as an inviolable wall of protection among brave -men, increased his claims to their hospitality; so that these savage -mountaineers, upon whom the majority of travellers concur in heaping the -most angry maledictions, obtained from the warm-hearted, grateful Pietro -the character of a kind and gentle people. On the 20th of January, 1617, -he quitted Kurdistan, and entered Persia. The change was striking. A -purer atmosphere, a more productive and better-cultivated soil, and a far -more dense population than in Turkey, caused him, from the suddenness -of the transition, somewhat to exaggerate, perhaps, the advantages of -this country. It is certain that the eyes of the traveller, like the -fabled gems of antiquity, carry about the light by which he views the -objects which come before him; and that the condition of this light is -greatly affected by the state of his animal spirits. Pietro was now in -that tranquil and serene mode of being consequent upon that enjoyment -which conscience approves; and having passed from a place where dangers, -real or imaginary, surrounded him, into a country where he at least -anticipated safety, if not distinction, it was natural that his fancy -should paint the landscape with delusive colours. Besides, many real -advantages existed; tents were no longer necessary, there being at every -halting-place a spacious caravansary, where the traveller could obtain -gratis lodgings for himself and attendants, and shelter for his beasts -and baggage. Fruits, likewise, such as pomegranates, apples, and grapes, -abounded, though the earth was still deeply covered with snow. If we -add to this that the Persians are a people who pique themselves upon -their urbanity, and, whatever may be the basis of their character, with -which the passing traveller has little to do, really conduct themselves -politely towards strangers, it will not appear very surprising that Della -Valle, who had just escaped from the boorish Ottomans, should have been -charmed with Persia. - -Arriving at Ispahan, at that period the capital of the empire, that is, -the habitual place of residence of the shah, his first care, of course, -was to taste a little repose; after which, he resumed his usual custom -of strolling about the city and its environs, observing the manners, and -sketching whatever was curious in costume and scenery. Here he remained -for several months; but growing tired, as usual, of calm inactivity, the -more particularly as the court was absent, he now prepared to present -himself before the shah, then in Mazenderan. Accordingly, having provided -a splendid litter for his wife and her sister, who, like genuine amazons, -determined to accompany him to the wars should he eventually take up arms -in the service of Persia, and provided every other necessary for the -journey, he quitted Ispahan, and proceeded northward towards the shores -of the Caspian Sea. The journey was performed in the most agreeable -manner imaginable. Whenever they came up to a pleasant grove, a shady -fountain, or any romantic spot where the greensward was sprinkled with -flowers or commanded a beautiful prospect, the whole party made a halt; -and the ladies, descending from their litter, which was borne by two -camels, and Pietro from his barb, they sat down like luxurious gipsies to -their breakfast or dinner, while the nightingales in the dusky recesses -of the groves served them instead of a musician. - -Proceeding slowly, on account of his harem, as he terms it, they arrived -in seven days at Cashan, where the imprudence of Maani nearly involved -him in a very serious affair. Being insulted on her way to the bezestein -by an officer, she gave the signal to her attendants to chastise the -drunkard, and, a battle ensuing, the unhappy man lost his life. When the -news was brought to Pietro he was considerably alarmed; but on proceeding -to the house of the principal magistrate, he very fortunately found that -the affair had been properly represented to him, and that his people were -not considered to have exceeded their duty. His wife, not reflecting -that her masculine habits and fiery temperament were quite sufficient to -account for the circumstance, now began to torment both herself and her -husband because she had not yet become a mother; and supposing that in -such cases wine was a sovereign remedy, she endeavoured to prevail upon -Pietro, who was a water-drinker, to have recourse to a more generous -beverage, offering to join with him, if he would comply, in the worship -of Bacchus. Our traveller, who had already, as he candidly informs us, a -small family in Italy, could not be brought to believe that the fault lay -in his sober potations, and firmly resisted the temptations of his wife. -With friendly arguments upon this and other topics they beguiled the -length of the way, and at length arrived in Mazenderan, though Maani’s -passion for horsemanship more than once put her neck in jeopardy on -the road. The scene which now presented itself was extremely different -from that through which they had hitherto generally passed. Instead of -the treeless plains or unfertile deserts which they had traversed in -the northern parts of Irak, they saw before them a country strongly -resembling Europe; mountains, deep well-wooded valleys, or rich green -plains rapidly alternating with each other, and the whole, watered by -abundant streams and fountains, refreshed and delighted the eye; and he -was as yet unconscious of the insalubrity of the atmosphere. - -Pietro, who, like Petronius, was an “elegans formarum spectator,” greatly -admired the beauty and graceful figures of the women of this province,—a -fact which makes strongly against the idea of its being unhealthy; for -it may generally be inferred, that wherever the women are handsome the -air is good. Here and there they observed, as they moved along, the -ruins of castles and fortresses on the acclivities and projections of the -mountains, which had formerly served as retreats to numerous chiefs who -had there aimed at independence. A grotto, which they discovered in a -nearly inaccessible position in the face of a mountain, was pointed out -to them as the residence of a virgin of gigantic stature, who, without -associates or followers, like the virago who obstructed the passage -of Theseus from Trœzene to Athens, formerly ravaged and depopulated -that part of the country. This and similar legends of giants, which -resemble those which prevail among all rude nations, were related to -our traveller, who rejected them with disdain as utterly fabulous and -contemptible, though not much more so, perhaps, than some which, as a -true son of the Roman church, he no doubt held in reverence. - -At length, after considerable fatigue, they arrived at Ferhabad, a small -port built by the Shah Abbas on the Caspian Sea. Here the governor of -the city, when informed of his arrival, assigned him a house in the -eastern quarter of the city, the rooms of which, says Pietro, were so -low, that although by no means a tall man, he could touch the ceiling -with his hand. If the house, however, reminded him of the huts erected by -Romulus on the Capitoline, the garden, on the other hand, was delightful, -being a large space of ground thickly planted with white mulberry-trees, -and lying close upon the bank of the river. Here he passed the greater -portion of his time with Actius Sincerus, or Marcus Aurelius, or -Ferrari’s Geographical Epitome in his hand, now offering sacrifices to -the Muses, and now running over with his eye the various countries and -provinces which he was proud to have travelled over. One of his favourite -occupations was the putting of his own adventures into verse, under a -feigned name. This he did in that _terza rima_ which Dante’s example -had made respectable, but not popular, in Italy; and as he was not of -the humour to hide his talent under a bushel, his brain was no sooner -delivered of this conceit than he despatched it to Rome for the amusement -of his friends. - -Being now placed upon the margin of the Caspian, he very naturally -desired to examine the appearance of its shores and waters; but embarking -for this purpose in a fishing-boat with Maani, who, having passed her -life in Mesopotamia, had never before seen the sea, her sickness and the -fears produced in her mind by the tossing and rolling of the bark among -the waves quickly put an end to the voyage. He ascertained, however, -from the pilots of the coast, that the waters of this sea were not deep; -immense banks of sand and mud, borne down into this vast basin by the -numerous rivers which discharge themselves into it, being met with on all -sides; though it is probable, that had they ventured far from shore they -would have found the case different. Fish of many kinds were plentiful; -but owing, perhaps, to the fat and slimy nature of the bottom, they were -all large, gross, and insipid. - -The shah was just then at Asshraff, a new city which he had caused to -be erected, and was then enlarging, about six perasangs, or leagues, to -the east of Ferhabad. Pietro, anxious to be introduced to the monarch, -soon after his arrival wrote letters to the principal minister, which, -together with others from the vicar-general of the Carmelite monks at -Ispahan, he despatched by two of his domestics; and the ministers, -according to his desire, informed the shah of his presence at Ferhabad. -Abbas, who apparently had no desire that he should witness the state of -things at Asshraff, not as yet comprehending either his character or his -motives, observed, that the roads being extremely bad, the traveller had -better remain at Ferhabad, whither he himself was about to proceed on -horseback in a day or two. Pietro, whose vanity prevented his perceiving -the shah’s motives, supposed in good earnest that Abbas was chary of his -guest’s ease; and, to crown the absurdity, swallowed another monstrous -fiction invented by the courtiers, who, as Hajjî Baba would say, were -all the while laughing at his beard,—namely, that the monarch was so -overjoyed at his arrival, that, had he not been annoyed by the number of -soldiers who followed him against his will, he would next morning have -ridden to Ferhabad to bid him welcome! - -However, when he actually arrived in that city, he did not, as our worthy -pilgrim expected, immediately admit him to an audience. In the mean -while an agent from the Cossacks inhabiting the north-eastern shores of -the Black Sea arrived, and Della Valle, who neglected no occasion of -forwarding his own views, in the shaping of which he exhibited remarkable -skill, at once connected himself with this stranger, whom he engaged to -aid and assist by every means in his power, receiving from the barbarian -the same assurances in return. The Cossack had come to tender the shah -his nation’s services against the Turks; notwithstanding which, the -business of his presentation had been negligently or purposely delayed, -probably that he might understand, when his proposal should be afterward -received, that, although the aid he promised was acceptable, it was by no -means necessary, nor so considered. - -At length the long-anticipated audience arrived, and Della Valle, when -presented, was well received by the shah; who, not being accustomed, -however, to the crusading spirit or the romance of chivalry, could not -very readily believe that the real motives which urged him to join the -Persian armies were precisely those which he professed. Nevertheless, his -offers of service were accepted, and the provisions which he had already -received rendered permanent. He was, moreover, sumptuously entertained -at the royal table, and had frequently the honour of being consulted upon -affairs of importance by the shah. - -Abbas soon afterward removing with his court into Ghilan, without -inviting Della Valle to accompany him, the latter departed for Casbin, -there to await the marching of the army against the Turks, in which -enterprise he was still mad enough to desire to engage. On reaching this -city he found that Abbas had been more expeditious than he, and was -already there, actively preparing for the war. All the military officers -of the kingdom now received orders to repair with all possible despatch -to Sultanieh, a city three days’ journey west of Casbin; and Pietro, who -had voluntarily become a member of this martial class, hurried on among -the foremost, in the hope of acquiring glory of a new kind. - -The shah and his army had not been many days encamped in the plains of -Sultanieh, when a courier from the general, who had already proceeded -towards the frontiers, arrived with the news that the Turkish army was -advancing, although slowly. This news allowed the troops, who had been -fatigued with forced marches, a short repose; after which they pushed -on vigorously towards Ardebil and Tabriz, Pietro and his heroic wife -keeping pace with the foremost. In this critical juncture, Abbas, though -in some respects a man of strong mind, did not consider it prudent to -trust altogether to corporeal armies; but, having in his dominions -certain individuals who pretended to have some influence over the -infernal powers, sought to interest hell also in his favour; and for -this purpose carried a renowned sorceress from Zunjan along with him to -the wars, in the same spirit as Charles the First, and the Parliament -shortly afterward, employed Lily to prophesy for them. Their route now -lay through the ancient Media, over narrow plains or hills covered with -verdure but bare of trees, sometimes traversing tremendous chasms, -spanned by bridges of fearful height, at others winding along the -acclivities of mountains, or upon the edge of precipices. - -Notwithstanding his seeming ardour to engage with the Turks, Pietro, -for some cause or another, did not join the fighting part of the army, -but remained with the shah’s suite at Ardebil. This circumstance seems -to have lowered him considerably in the estimation of the court. A -battle, however, was fought, in which the Persians were victorious; but -the Turkish sultan dying at this juncture, his successor commanded his -general to negotiate for peace, which, after the usual intrigues and -delays, was at length concluded. Abbas now returned to Casbin, where the -victory and the peace was celebrated with great rejoicings; and here -Della Valle, who seems to have begun to perceive that he was not likely -to make any great figure in war, took his leave of the court in extremely -bad health and low spirits, and returned to Ispahan. - -Here repose, and the conversation of the friends he had made in this -city, once more put him in good-humour with himself and with Persia; and -being of an exceedingly hasty and inconsiderate disposition, he no sooner -began to experience a little tranquillity, than he exerted the influence -he had acquired over the parents of his wife to induce them, right or -wrong, to leave Bagdad, where they lived contentedly and in comfort, -and to settle at Ispahan, where they were in a great measure strangers, -notwithstanding that one of their younger daughters was married to an -Armenian of that city. The principal members of the family, no less -imprudent than their adviser, accordingly quitted Mesopotamia with their -treasures and effects, and established themselves in the capital of -Persia. - -This measure was productive of nothing but disappointment and vexation. -One of Maani’s sisters, who had remained with her mother at Bagdad, -while the father and brothers were at Ispahan, died suddenly; and the -mother, inconsolable for her loss, entreated her husband to return to her -with her other children. Then followed the pangs of parting, rendered -doubly bitter by the reflection that it was for ever. Pietro became ill -and melancholy, having now turned his thoughts, like the prodigal in -the parable, towards his country and his father’s house, and determined -shortly to commence his journey homeward. Obtaining without difficulty -his dismission from the shah, and winding up his affairs, which were -neither intricate nor embarrassed, at Ispahan, he set out on a visit -to Shiraz, intending, when he should have examined Persepolis and its -environs, to bid an eternal adieu to Persia. - -With this view, having remained some time at Shiraz, admiring but not -enjoying the pure stream of the Rocnabad, the bowers of Mesellay, and the -bright atmosphere which shed glory on all around, he proceeded to Mineb, -a small town on the river Ibrahim, a little to the south of Gombroon and -Ormus, on the shore of the Persian Gulf. Maani, whose desire to become a -mother had been an unceasing source of unhappiness to her ever since her -marriage, being now pregnant, nothing could have been more ill-judged in -her husband than to approach those pestilential coasts; especially at -such a season of the year. He quickly discovered his error, but it was -too late. The fever which rages with unremitting violence throughout all -that part of the country during six months in the year had now seized not -only upon Maani, but on himself likewise, and upon every other member of -his family. Instant flight might, perhaps, have rescued them from danger, -as it afterward did Chardin, but a fatal lethargy seems to have seized -upon the mind of Pietro. He trembled at the destiny which menaced him, -he saw death, as it were, entering his house, and approach gradually -the individual whom he cherished beyond all others; time was allowed -him by Providence for escape, yet he stood still, as if spellbound, and -suffered the victim to be seized without a struggle. His wife, whose -condition I have alluded to above, affected at once by the fever, and -apprehensive of its consequences, was terrified into premature labour, -and a son dead-born considerably before its time put the finishing -stroke, as it were, to the affliction of her mind. Her fever increased -in violence—medical aid was vain—death triumphed—and Maani sunk into the -grave at the age of twenty-three. - -A total change now came over the mind of Della Valle, which not only -affected the actions of his life, but communicated itself to his -writings, depriving them of that dashing quixotism which up to this point -constitutes their greatest charm. A cloud, black as Erebus, descended -upon his soul, and nine months elapsed before he could again command -sufficient spirits or energy to announce the melancholy event to his -friend Schipano. He, however, resolved that the body of his beloved wife -should not be consigned to the earth in Persia, where he should never -more come to visit or shed a tear over her grave. He therefore contrived -to have it embalmed, and then, enclosing it in a coffin adapted to the -purpose, placed it in a travelling trunk, in order that, wherever his -good or bad fortune should conduct him, the dear remains of his Maani -might accompany him to the grave. Certain circumstances attending this -transaction strongly serve to illustrate the character of Della Valle, -and while they tell in favour of his affection, and paint the melancholy -condition to which his bereavement had reduced him, likewise throw some -light upon the manners and state of the country. Dead bodies being -regarded as unclean by the Mohammedans, as they were in old Greece and -Rome, and most other nations of antiquity, no persons could be found to -undertake the task of embalming but a few old women, whom the _auri sacra -fames_ reconciled to the pollution. These, wrapping thick bandages over -their mouths and nostrils, to prevent the powerful odour of the gum from -penetrating into their lungs and brain, after having disembowelled the -corpse, filled its cavities with camphor, and with the same ingredient, -which was of the most pungent and desiccating nature, rubbed all its -limbs and surface until the perfume had penetrated to the very bones. -Pietro, at all times superstitious, was now rendered doubly so by sorrow. -Having somewhere heard or read that the bodies of men will be reanimated -at the general resurrection, wherever their heads happen to be deposited, -while, according to another theory, it was the resting-place of the heart -which was to determine the point, and being desirous, according to either -view of the matter, that Maani and himself should rise on that awful -day together, he gave orders that the heart of his beloved should be -carefully embalmed with the rest of the body. It never once occurred to -him that the _pollinctores_ (or undertakers) might neglect his commands, -and therefore he omitted to overlook this part of the operation; indeed -his feelings would not allow him to be present, and while it was going -on he sat retired, hushing the tempest of his soul in the best manner he -could. While he was in this state of agony, he observed the embalmers -approaching him with something in their hands, and on casting his eyes -upon it he beheld the heart of Maani in a saucer! An unspeakable horror -shot through his whole frame as he gazed upon the heart which, but a few -days before, had bounded with delight and joy to meet his own; and he -turned away his head with a shudder. - -When the operation was completed, the mummy was laid out upon a board, -and placed under a tent in the garden, in order to be still further -desiccated by the action of the air. Here it remained seven days and -nights, and the walls being low, it was necessary to keep a strict and -perpetual watch over it, lest the hyenas should enter and devour it. Worn -down as he was by fever, by watching, and by sorrow, Pietro would intrust -this sacred duty to no vulgar guardian during the night, but, with his -loaded musket in his hand, paced to and fro before the tent through the -darkness, while the howls of the hyenas, bursting forth suddenly quite -near him, as it were, frequently startled his ear and increased his -vigilance. By day he took a few hours’ repose, while his domestics kept -watch. - -When this melancholy task had been duly performed, he departed, in -sickness and dejection, for the city of Lâr, where the air being somewhat -cooler and more pure, he entertained some hopes of a recovery. Not many -days after his arrival, a Syrian whom he had known at Ispahan brought him -news from Bagdad which were any thing but calculated to cheer or console -his mind. He learned that another sister of Maani had died on the road -in returning from Persia; that the father, stricken to the soul by this -new calamity, had likewise died a few days after reaching home; and that -the widow, thus bereaved of the better part of her family, and feeling -the decrepitude of old age coming apace, was inconsolable. Our traveller -was thunderstruck. Death seemed to have put his mark on all those whom he -loved. Persia now became hateful to him. Its very atmosphere appeared to -teem with misfortunes as with clouds. Nothing, therefore, seemed left him -but to quit it with all possible celerity. - -Pietro’s desire to return to Italy was now abated, and travelling more -desirable than home; motion, the presence of strange objects, the -surmounting of difficulties and dangers, being better adapted than -ease and leisure for the dissipating of sharp grief. For this reason he -returned to the shore of the Persian Gulf, and embarked at Gombroon on -board of an English ship for India, taking along with him the body of his -wife, and a little orphan Georgian girl whom he and Maani had adopted -at Ispahan. As even a father cannot remove his daughter, or a husband -his wife, from the shah’s dominions without an especial permission, -which might not be granted without considerable delay, Pietro determined -to elude the laws, and disguising the Georgian in the dress of a boy, -contrived to get her on board among the ship’s crew in the dusk of the -evening, on the 19th of January, 1623. - -Traversing the Indian Ocean with favourable winds, he arrived on the 10th -of February at Surat, where he was hospitably entertained by the English -and Dutch residents. He found Guzerat a pleasant country, consisting, -as far as his experience extended, of rich, green plains, well watered, -and thickly interspersed with trees. From Surat he proceeded to Cambay, -a large city situated upon the extremity of a fine plain at the bottom -of the gulf of the same name. Here he adopted the dress, and as far as -possible the manners of the Hindoos, and then, striking off a little from -the coast, visited Ahmedabad, travelling thither with a small cafila or -caravan, the roads being considered dangerous for solitary individuals. -At a small village on the road he observed an immense number of beautiful -yellow squirrels, with fine large tails, leaping from tree to tree; and a -little farther on met with a great number of beggars armed with bows and -arrows, who demanded charity with sound of trumpet. His observations in -this country, though sufficiently curious occasionally, were the fruit of -a too hasty survey, which could not enable him to pierce deeply below the -exterior crust of manners. Indeed, he seems rather to have amused himself -with strange sights, than sought to philosophize upon the circumstances -of humanity. In a temple of Mahades in this city, where numerous Yoghees, -the Gymnosophists of antiquity, were standing like so many statues behind -the sacred lamps, he observed an image of the god entirely of crystal. -On the banks of the Sabermati, which ran close beneath the walls of the -city, numerous Yoghees, as naked as at the moment of their birth, were -seated, with matted hair, and wild looks, and powdered all over with the -ashes of the dead bodies which they had aided in burning. - -Returning to Cambay, he embarked in a Portuguese ship for Goa, a city -chiefly remarkable for the number of monks that flocked thither, and for -the atrocities which they there perpetrated in the name of the Church of -Rome. Della Valle soon found that there was more security and pleasure in -living among pagans “suckled in a creed outworn,” or even among heretics, -than in this Portuguese city, where all strangers were regarded with -horror, and met with nothing but baseness and treachery. Leaving this -den of monks and traitors, he proceeded southward along the coast, and -in a few days arrived at Onore, where he went to pay a visit to a native -of distinction, whom they found upon the shore, seated beneath the shade -of some fine trees, flanked and overshadowed, as it were, by a range -of small hills. Being in the company of a Portuguese ambassador from -Goa to a rajah of the Sadasiva race, who then held his court at Ikery, -he regarded the opportunity of observing something of the interior of -the peninsula as too favourable to be rejected, and obtained permission -to form a part of the ambassador’s suite. They set out from Onore in -boats, but the current of the river they were ascending was so rapid and -powerful, that with the aid of both sails and oars they were unable to -push on that day beyond Garsopa, formerly a large and flourishing city, -but now inconsiderable and neglected. Here the scenery, a point which -seldom commanded much of Della Valle’s attention, however picturesque -or beautiful it might be, was of so exquisite a character, so rich, so -glowing, so variable, so full of contrasts, that indifferent as he was on -that head, his imagination was kindled, and he confessed, that turn which -way soever he might, the face of nature was marvellously delightful. A -succession of hills of all forms, and of every shade of verdure, between -which valleys, now deep and umbrageous, now presenting broad, green, -sunny slopes to the eye, branched about in every direction; lofty forests -of incomparable beauty, among which the most magnificent fruit-trees, -such as the Indian walnut, the fawfel, and the amba, were interspersed, -small winding streams, now glancing and quivering and rippling in the -sun, and now plunging into the deep shades of the woods; while vast -flights of gay tropical birds were perched upon the branches, or skimming -over the waters; all these combined certainly formed a glorious picture, -and justified the admiration of Pietro when he exclaimed that nothing to -equal it had ever met his eye. On entering the Ghauts he perceived in -them some resemblance to the Apennines, though they were more beautiful; -and to enjoy so splendid a prospect he travelled part of the way on foot. -The Western Ghauts, which divide the vast plateau of Mysore from Malabar, -Canasen, and the other maritime provinces of the Deccan, are in most -parts covered with forests of prodigious grandeur, and in one of these -Pietro and his party were overtaken by the night. Though “overhead the -moon hung imminent, and shed her silver light,” not a ray could descend -to them through the impenetrable canopy of the wood, so that they were -compelled to kindle torches, notwithstanding which they failed to find -their way, and contented themselves with kindling a fire and passing the -night under a tree. - -Ikery, the bourn beyond which they were not to proceed towards the -interior, was then an extensive but thinly-peopled city, though according -to the Hindoos it once contained a hundred thousand inhabitants. Around -it extended three lines of fortifications, of which the exterior was a -row of bamboos, thickly planted, and of enormous height, whose lifted -heads, with the beautiful flowering parasites which crept round their -stems to the summit, yielded a grateful shade. Here he beheld a suttee, -visited various temples, and saw the celebrated dancing girls of -Hindostan perform their graceful but voluptuous postures. He examined -likewise the ceremonial of the rajah’s court, and instituted numerous -inquiries into the religion and manners of the country, upon all which -points he obtained information curious enough for that age, but now, -from the more extensive and exact researches of later travellers, of -little value. Returning to the seacoast, he proceeded southward as far -as Calicut, the extreme point of his travels. Here he faced about, as it -were, turned his eyes towards home, and began to experience a desire to -be at rest. Still, at Cananou, at Salsette, and the other parts of India -at which he touched on his return, he continued assiduously to observe -and describe, though rather from habit than any delight which it afforded -him. - -On the 15th of November, 1624, he embarked at Goa in a ship bound for -Muskat, from whence he proceeded up the Persian Gulf to Bassorah. Here he -hired mules and camels, and provided all things necessary for crossing -the desert; and on the 21st of May, 1625, departed, being accompanied by -an Italian friar, Marian, the Georgian girl, and the corpse of Maani. -During this journey he observed the sand in many places strewed with -seashells, bright and glittering as mother-of-pearl, and in others with -bitumen. Occasionally their road lay over extensive marshes, covered -thickly with reeds or brushwood, or white with salt; but at this season -of the year every thing was so dry that a spark falling from the pipe of -a muleteer upon the parched grass nearly produced a conflagration in the -desert. When they had advanced many days’ journey into the waste, and -beheld on all sides nothing but sand and sky, a troop of Arab robbers, -who came scouring along the desert upon their fleet barbs, attacked -and rifled their little caravan; and Della Valle saw himself about to -be deprived of his wife’s body, after having preserved it so long, and -conveyed it safely over so many seas and mountains. In this fear he -addressed himself to the banditti, describing the contents of the chest, -and the motives which urged him so vehemently to desire its preservation. -The Arabs were touched with compassion. The sight of the coffin, -enforcing the effect of his eloquence, interested their hearts; so that -not only did they respect the dead, and praise the affectionate and pious -motives of the traveller, but also narrowed their demands, for they -pretended to exact dues, not to rob, and allowed the caravan to proceed -with the greater part of its wealth. - -On arriving at the port of Alexandretta another difficulty arose. The -Turks would never have allowed a corpse to pass through the custom-house, -nor would the sailors of the ship in which he desired to embark for -Cyprus on any account have suffered it to come on board. To overreach -both parties, Pietro had the body enveloped in bales of spun cotton, upon -which he paid the regular duty, and thus one further step was gained. -After visiting Cyprus, Malta, and Sicily, where he remained some short -time, he set sail for Naples. Here he found his old friend Schipano still -living, and after describing to him the various scenes and dangers -through which he had passed, moved forward towards Rome, where he arrived -on the 28th of March, 1626, after an absence of more than twelve years. - -His return was no sooner made known in the city than numerous friends -and relations and the greater number of the nobility crowded to his -house, to bid him welcome and congratulate him upon the successful -termination of his travels. His presentation to the pope took place a few -days afterward, when Urban VIII. was so charmed with his conversation -and manners, that, without application or intrigue on the part of the -traveller, he was appointed his holiness’s honorary chamberlain,—a -compliment regarded at Rome as highly flattering. In order to induce the -pope to send out missionaries to Georgia, Pietro now presented him with -a short account of that country, which he had formerly written; and the -affair being seriously taken into consideration, it was determined by the -society _De Propaganda Fide_ that the proposed measure should be carried -into effect, and that Pietro should be regularly consulted respecting the -business of the Levant missions in general. - -Early in the spring of 1627, he caused the funeral obsequies of his wife -to be celebrated with extraordinary magnificence in the church of Aracœli -at Rome. The funeral oration he himself pronounced; and when, after -describing the various circumstances of her life, and the happiness of -their union, he came to expatiate upon her beauty, his emotions became -so violent that tears and sobs choked his utterance, and he failed to -proceed. His auditors, according to some accounts, were likewise affected -even unto tears; while others relate that they burst into a fit of -laughter. If they did, the fault was in their own hearts; for, however -extravagant the manner of Della Valle may have been, death is a solemn -thing, and can never fail properly to affect all well-constituted minds. - -However, though his love for Maani’s memory seems never to have abated, -the vanity of keeping up the illustrious name of Della Valle, and the -consequent wish of leaving a legitimate offspring behind him, reconciled -a second marriage to his mind, and Marian Tinatin, the Georgian girl whom -he had brought with him from the East, appears to have been the person -selected for his second wife. M. Eyriès asserts, but I know not upon what -authority, that it was a relation of Maani whom he married; but this -seems to be extremely improbable, since, so far as can be discovered from -his travels, no relation of hers ever accompanied him, excepting the -brother and sister who spent some time with him in Persia. - -Though he had exhausted a large portion of his patrimony in his numerous -and long-continued journeys, sufficient seems to have remained to enable -him to spend the remainder of his life in splendour and affluence. He -had established himself in the mansion of his ancestors at Rome, and the -locomotive propensity having entirely deserted him, would probably never -have quitted the city, but that one day, while the pope was pronouncing -his solemn benediction in St. Peter’s, he had the misfortune to fall into -a violent passion, during which he killed his coachman in the area before -the church. This obliged him once more to fly to Naples; but murder not -being regarded as a very heinous offence at Rome, and the pope, moreover, -entertaining a warm friendship for Pietro, he was soon recalled. After -this nothing remarkable occurred to him until his death, which took place -on the 20th of April, 1652. Soon after his death, his widow retired to -Urbino; and his children, exhibiting a fierce and turbulent character, -were banished the city. - -As a traveller, Della Valle possessed very distinguished qualities. He -was enthusiastic, romantic, enterprising. He had read, if not studied, -the histories of the various countries through which he afterward -travelled; and there were few dangers which he was not ready cheerfully -to encounter for the gratification of his curiosity. Gibbon complains -of his insupportable vanity and prolixity. With his vanity I should -never quarrel, as it only tends to render him the more agreeable: but -his prolixity is sometimes exceedingly tedious, particularly in those -rhetorical exordiums to his long letters, containing the praises of -his friend Schipano, and lamentations over the delays of the Asiatic -_post-office_. Nevertheless, it is impossible to peruse his works -without great instruction and delight; for his active, and vigorous, and -observant mind continually gives birth to sagacious and profound remarks; -and his adventures, though undoubtedly true, are full of interest and the -spirit of romance. - - - - -JEAN BAPTISTE TAVERNIER. - -Born 1602.—Died 1685 or 1686. - - -The father of Tavernier was a map and chart maker of Antwerp in Brabant, -who removed with his family into France while our traveller was still in -his childhood. Though born of Protestant parents, some of his biographers -have imagined that Tavernier must have been a Catholic, at least in the -early part of his life, before his intercourse with the English and -Dutch had sapped the foundations of his faith, and left him without any! -But the truth appears to be, that although educated in the dominions of -a Catholic king, surrounded by priests, and within the hearing of the -mass-bells, he, as well as the rest of the family, one graceless nephew -excepted, always remained faithful to the Protestant cause. However this -may be, Tavernier, who was constantly surrounded by the maps of foreign -lands, and by persons who conversed of little else, very early conceived -the design of “seeing the world,” and being furnished with the necessary -funds by his parents or friends, commenced his long wanderings by a visit -to England, from whence he passed over into Flanders, in order to behold -his native city. - -The rumour of the wars then about to burst forth in Germany kindled -the martial spirit in the mind of our youthful traveller, who, moving -through Frankfort and Augsburg towards Nuremburg, fell in with _Hans -Brenner_, a colonel of cavalry, son to the governor of Vienna, and was -easily prevailed upon to join his corps, then marching into Bohemia. -His adventures in these wars he himself considered unworthy of being -recorded. It is simply insinuated that he was present at the battle of -Prague, some time after which he became a page to the governor of Raab, -then viceroy of Hungary. In this situation he had remained four years and -a half, when the young Prince of Mantua arrived at Raab on his way to -Vienna, and with the consent of the viceroy took Tavernier along with him -in quality of interpreter. - -This circumstance inspired him with the desire of visiting Italy; and -obtaining his dismissal from the viceroy, who, at parting, presented him -with a sword, a pair of pistols, a horse, and, what was of infinitely -greater consequence, a good purse filled with ducats, he entered as -interpreter into the service of M. de Sabran, the French envoy to the -emperor, and proceeded to Venice. From this city, which he compares with -Amsterdam, he removed in the train of M. de Sabran to Mantua, where he -remained during the siege of that place by the imperial troops. Here, -engaging with a small number of young men in a reconnoitring party, he -narrowly escaped death, only four out of eighteen returning, and having -been twice struck in the breast by a ball, which was repelled by the -goodness of his cuirass. Of this excellent piece of armour the Count de -Guiche, afterward Marshal de Grammont, disburdened him, considering the -superior value to France of his own patrician soul, and the comparative -unimportance of Tavernier’s life. These little accidents, which seem -to have aided in ripening his brain, curing him of his martial ardour, -he quitted Mantua, and having visited Loretta, Rome, Naples, and other -celebrated cities of Italy, returned to France. - -These little excursions, which might have satisfied a less ardent -adventurer, only tended to strengthen his passion for locomotion. He -therefore immediately quitted Paris for Switzerland, whence, having -traversed the principal cantons, he again passed into Germany. Here -he remained but a very short time before he undertook a journey into -Poland, apparently for the purpose of beholding the splendid court of -King Sigismund. His curiosity on this point being gratified, he retraced -his footsteps, with the design of visiting the emperor’s court; but, -arriving near Glogau, he was diverted from his intention by meeting -accidently with the Colonel Butler who afterward killed the celebrated -Wallestein. With this gallant Scot and his wife he staid for some time; -but understanding that the coronation of Ferdinand III., as king of -the Romans, was about to take place at Ratisbon, Tavernier, for whom -the sight of pomp and splendour appears to have possessed irresistible -charms, quitted his new friends and patrons, and repaired to the scene of -action. - -Upon the magnificence of this coronation it is unnecessary to dwell, -but a tragical circumstance which took place at Ratisbon, during the -preparations for it, is too illustrative of the manners and spirit of -the times to be passed over in silence. Among the numerous jewellers who -repaired upon this occasion to Ratisbon, there was a young man from -Frankfort, the only son of the richest merchant in Europe. The father, -who feared to hazard his jewels with his son upon the road, caused them -to be forwarded by a sure conveyance to his correspondent at that city, -with orders that as soon as the young man should arrive they should be -delivered up to him. Upon the arrival of the youth, the correspondent, -who was a Jew, informed him that he had received a coffer of jewels from -his father, which he would place in his hands as soon as he should think -proper. In the mean while he conducted him to a tavern, where they drank -and conversed until one o’clock in the morning. They then left the house, -and the Jew conducted the young man, who was apparently a stranger to -the city, through various by-streets, where there were few shops, and -few passers, and when they were in a spot convenient for the purpose he -stabbed his guest in the bowels, and left him extended in his blood upon -the pavement. He then returned home, and wrote to his friend at Frankfort -that his son had arrived in safety, and received the jewels. The murderer -had no sooner quitted his victim, however, than a soldier, who happened -to be passing that way, stumbled over the body, and feeling his hand wet -with blood, was startled, and alarming the watch, the body was taken -up, and carried to the very tavern where the young man and the Jew had -spent the evening. This led to the apprehension of the murderer, who, -strange to say, at once confessed his guilt. He was therefore condemned, -according to the laws of the empire, to be hung upon a gallows with his -head downwards, between two large dogs, which, in the rage and agonies of -hunger, might tear him to pieces and devour him. This tremendous sentence -was changed, however, at the intercession and by the costly presents of -the other Jews of Ratisbon, to another of shorter duration but scarcely -less terrible, which was, to have his flesh torn from his bones by -red-hot pincers, while boiling lead was poured into the wound, and to be -afterward broken alive upon the wheel. - -When the punishment of the Jew and the coronation were over, Tavernier -began to turn his thoughts towards Turkey; and two French gentlemen -proceeding at this period to Constantinople on public business, he -obtained permission to accompany them, and set out through Hungary, -Servia, Bulgaria, and Romelia, to the shores of the Dardanelles. At -Constantinople he remained eleven months, during which time he undertook -several little excursions, among which was one to the plains of Troy; -but finding neither the pomp of courts nor the bustle of trade upon this -scene of ancient glory, he was grievously disappointed, and regarded -the time and money expended on the journey as so much loss. So little -poetical enthusiasm had he in his soul! - -At length the caravan for Persia, for the departure of which he had -waited so long, set out, proceeding along the southern shore of the -Black Sea, a route little frequented by Europeans. On leaving Scutari -they travelled through fine plains covered with flowers, observing on -both sides of the road a number of noble tombs of a pyramidal shape. On -the evening of the second day the caravan halted at Gebre, the ancient -Libyssa, a place rendered celebrated by the tomb of Hannibal. From -this town they proceeded to Ismid, the ancient Nicomedia, where Sultan -Murad erected a palace commanding a beautiful prospect, on account of -the abundance of game, fruits, and wine found in the neighbourhood. -Continuing their route through a country abounding with wood, picturesque -hills, and rich valleys, they passed through Boli, the ancient -Flaviopolis, when they halted two days in order to feast upon the pigeons -of the vicinity which were as large as fowls. From thence they continued -their route through Tosia, Amasia, and Toket, to Arzroum, in Armenia, -where they remained several days. They then proceeded to Karo, thence to -Erivan, and thence, by Ardebil and Kashan, to Ispahan, where he arrived -in the year 1629. - -Being destitute of a profession, and having, I know not how, picked up -some knowledge of precious stones, Tavernier became a jeweller in the -East. Where he first commenced this business, and what quantity of stock, -who furnished him with his capital, or with credit which might enable -him to dispense with it, are points upon which no information remains. -It is certain, however, that in this first visit to Persia several years -were spent, during which he traversed the richest and most remarkable -provinces of the empire, observing the country, and studying the manners, -but always conversing by means of an interpreter, not possessing the -talents necessary for the acquiring of foreign language. The history of -his six peregrinations into the East, as the events which marked them are -not of sufficient importance to require a minute description, I shall not -enter into other than generally, omitting all reference to his obscure -and confused chronology. However, finding that the trade in precious -stones, in which he had boldly engaged, promised to turn out a thriving -one, he very soon projected a voyage to India, for the purpose of -visiting the diamond-mines, and acquiring upon the spot all that species -of information which his business required. - -In fulfilment of this design, he repaired to Gombroon, on the Persian -Gulf, where, finding a ship bound for Surat, he embarked for India. -On arriving at Surat, which at that period was a city of considerable -extent, surrounded by earthen fortifications, and defended by a miserable -fortress, he took up his residence with the Dutch, and commenced -business. His Indian speculations proving, as he had anticipated, -extremely profitable, his Persian expeditions always terminated by a -visit to Hindostan, during which he trafficked with the Mogul princes, -who, though no less desirous than himself of driving a hard bargain, -appear to have generally paid handsomely in the end for whatever they -purchased. Upon one occasion Shahest Khan, governor of Surat, having -made a considerable purchase from our merchant-traveller, determined -to make trial of his skill in the art of trade. “Will you,” said he, -“receive your money in gold or in silver rupees?”—“I will be guided by -your highness’s advice,” replied the traveller. The khan, who probably -expected an answer of this kind, immediately commanded the sum to be -counted out, reckoning the gold rupee as equivalent to fourteen rupees -and a half in silver, which, as Tavernier well knew, was half a rupee -more than its real value. However, as he hoped to make up for this loss -upon some future occasion, he made no objection at the time, but received -his money and retired. Two days afterward he returned to the khan, -pretending that after much negotiation, and many attempts to dispose -of his gold rupees at the rate at which he had received them, he had -discovered that at the present rate of exchange gold was equivalent to -no more than fourteen silver rupees, and that thus, upon the ninety-six -thousand rupees which he had received in gold, he should lose three -thousand four hundred and twenty-eight. Upon this the prince burst out -into a tremendous passion, and supposing it to be the Dutch broker who -had given this information, which he insisted was false, to our diamond -merchant, swore he would cause him to receive as many lashes as would -make up the pretended deficiency, and thus teach him to know the real -value of money. Tavernier, who, by this time, understood the proper -mode of proceeding with Asiatic princes, allowed the storm to blow over -before he ventured to reply; but observing the khan’s countenance growing -calm, and relaxing into a smile, he returned to the point, and humbly -requested to know whether he should return the gold rupees, or might hope -that his highness would make up the deficiency. At these words the khan -again looked at him steadfastly with an angry eye and without uttering a -syllable; but at length inquired whether he had brought along with him a -certain pearl which he had formerly shown. Tavernier drew it forth from -his bosom, and placed it in his hands. “Now,” said the khan, “let us -speak no more of the past. Tell me in one word the exact price of this -pearl.”—“Seven thousand rupees,” replied the traveller, who, however, -meant to have taken three thousand rather than break off the bargain. “If -I give thee five thousand,” returned the khan, “thou wilt be well repaid -for thy pretended loss upon the gold rupees. Come to-morrow, and thou -shalt receive the money. I wish thee to depart contented; and therefore -thou shalt receive a dress of honour and a horse.” Tavernier was content, -and having entreated his highness to send him a useful beast, since he -had far to travel, made the usual obeisance and took his leave. - -Next day the kelât and the horse were sent. With the former, which was -really handsome and valuable, our traveller was well satisfied; and the -horse, which was decked with green velvet housings with silver fringe, -likewise seemed to answer his expectations. When, however, he was brought -into the court of the house, and a young Dutchman sprung upon his back -to try his mettle, he began to rear, and plunge, and kick in so powerful -a manner that he shook down the roof of a small shed which stood in the -yard, and put the life of his rider in imminent jeopardy. Observing this, -Tavernier commanded the animal to be returned to the prince; and when he -went to the palace in order to express his thanks and take his leave, he -related the whole circumstance, adding that he feared his highness had no -desire that he should execute the commission with which he had intrusted -him. Upon this the khan, who could not restrain his laughter during the -whole narration, commanded a large Persian horse, which had belonged to -his father, and when young had cost five thousand crowns, to be brought -forth ready saddled and bridled, and desired the traveller to mount at -once. Tavernier obeyed, and found that, although upwards of twenty-eight -years old, this horse was the finest pacer he had ever beheld. “Well,” -said the khan, “are you satisfied? This beast will not break your neck.” -In addition to this he presented him with a basket of Cashmere apples, -and a Persian melon, so exquisite that they were at least worth a hundred -rupees. The horse, old as he was, he afterward sold at Golconda for fifty -pounds sterling. - -Having concluded his negotiations at Surat, he set out upon his journey -to the diamond-mines; and passing, among other towns, through Navapoor, -where he found the rice, which he regarded as the best in the world, -slightly scented with musk, and through Dowlutabad, one of the strongest -fortresses in Hindostan, arrived in about two months at Golconda. This -kingdom, which was then a powerful and independent state, contained an -abundance of fertile lands, numerous flocks and herds, and many small -lakes, which furnished inexhaustible supplies of fish. Baugnuggur, the -capital (the modern Hyderabad), vulgarly called Golconda, from the -fortress of that name in the vicinity, in which the king resided, was -then a city of recent construction; but nevertheless contained a number -of fine buildings, several admirable caravansaries, mosques, and pagodas, -and the streets, though unpaved, were broad and handsome. Upon the roof -of the palace were gardens, in which grew immense trees, yielding a -large and grateful shade, but menacing to crush the structure with their -weight. Here stood a pagoda, which, had it been completed, would not only -have been the largest in all India, but one of the boldest structures in -Asia, or perhaps in the world. The stones employed in this building were -all of very large dimensions; but there was one of such prodigious size -that it required five years to lift it out of the quarry, as many more to -draw it to the pagoda, and a carriage with fourteen hundred oxen! That a -temple commenced upon such a scale, and with such materials, should be -left unfinished, was not greatly to be wondered at; and accordingly it -was never completed. - -The population of this city with its extensive suburbs, though not -exactly stated, must have been very considerable, since the number of -licensed courtesans amounted, as he was informed, to twenty thousand, -the majority of whom inhabited small huts, where by day they might -always be seen standing at the door, while a lamp or lighted candle -was placed by night to light the passenger to his ruin. The principal -of these women presented themselves every Friday before the king, as -was, according to Bernier, the custom likewise at Delhi, when, if his -majesty permitted, they exhibited their skill in dancing; but if he were -better employed they were commanded by the principal eunuch to retire. -These ladies, who were under the especial protection of the monarch, -appear to have been peculiarly devoted to their illustrious patron: for -when his majesty was upon one occasion returning to his capital from -Masulipatam, nine of these faithful servants contrived to imitate with -their bodies the form of an elephant; four enacting the legs, another -four the body, and one the proboscis; and, receiving their prince upon -their back, bore him in triumph into the city! Both sexes here possessed -a high degree of personal beauty; and, excepting the peasantry, who of -course were rendered somewhat swarthy by their exposure to the sun, were -distinguished for the fairness of their complexions. - -Though he had undertaken this long journey expressly for the purpose -of visiting the diamond-mines, many persons, apparently, both here and -elsewhere, endeavoured to dissuade him from carrying his design into -execution, by fearful pictures of the mine districts, which, it was said, -could only be approached by the most dangerous roads, and were inhabited -by a rude and barbarous population. However, as he was never deterred by -the fear of danger from pursuing his plans, these representations were -ineffectual. The first mine which he visited was that of Raolconda, five -days’ journey distant from Golconda, and eight or nine from Beajapoor. -The country in the environs of Raolconda, where, according to the -traditions of the inhabitants, diamonds had been discovered upwards of -two hundred years, was a sandy waste, strewn with rocks, and broken by -chasms and precipices, like the environs of Fontainbleau. These rocks -were traversed by veins from half an inch to an inch in breadth, which -were hollowed out with small crooked bars of iron by the workmen, who put -the earth or sand thus scraped into vessels prepared for the purpose, -where, after the earth had been washed away, the diamonds were found. -Many of the gems obtained at this mine were flawed by the blows which -were necessary for splitting the hard rocks, and various were the arts -resorted to by the miners for concealing these defects. Sometimes they -cleaved the stones in two, at others they ground them into as many angles -as possible, or set them in a peculiar manner. Tavernier, who was a -shrewd merchant, soon discovered all their tricks, however; and, able as -they were at overreaching and driving bargains, succeeded in making an -immense fortune at their expense. - -The workmen, who, although engaged in dragging forth these splendid -and costly toys from the bowels of the earth, earned but a miserable -pittance for their pains, sometimes conceived the idea of secreting -small diamonds; and, though rigidly watched, occasionally contrived to -swallow or conceal them within their eyelids, having no clothing whatever -except the cummerbund. When a foreign merchant arrived, one of the -banyans who rented the mines usually called upon him about ten or eleven -o’clock in the morning, bringing along with him a portion of the diamonds -which he might have for sale. These he generally deposited confidingly -in the foreigner’s hand, allowing him six or eight days to examine them -and determine upon the prices he would consent to give. The day for -bargaining being arrived, however, it was necessary to come without much -negotiation to the point; for if the foreigner hesitated, made many low -offers, or otherwise endeavoured to undervalue the merchandise, the -Hindoo very coolly wrapped up his gems in the corner of his garment, -turned upon his heel, and departed; nor could he ever be prevailed upon -to show the same jewels again, unless mixed with others. - -The view of the ordinary diamond mart was singularly picturesque. It -was a large open space in the centre of the town, where you might every -morning see the sons of the principal merchants, from ten to fifteen -years old, sitting under a tree with their diamond balances and weights -in small bags under their arms; while others carried large bags of gold -pagodas. When any person appeared with diamonds for sale, he was referred -to the oldest of the lads, who was usually the chief of the company, -and transacted the business of the whole. This boy, having carefully -considered the water of the gem, handed it to the lad who stood nearest -him, who in like manner passed it to the next, and so on, until it had -made the circuit of the whole, without a word being spoken by any one. If -after all he should pay too dear for the diamond, the loss fell upon him -alone. In the evening they assorted the gems, and divided their gains; -the principal receiving one quarter per cent. more than the others. - -The merchants of Raolconda were extremely obliging and polite towards -strangers. Upon the arrival of Tavernier, the governor, a Mohammedan, who -was likewise commander of the province, received him with much kindness, -and furnished him, in addition to the servants he had brought with him, -four trusty attendants, who were commanded to watch day and night over -his treasures. “You may now eat, drink, sleep, and take care of your -health,” said he; “you have nothing to fear; only take care not to make -any attempts to defraud the king.” - -One evening, shortly after his arrival, our traveller was accosted -by a banyan of mean appearance, whose whole apparel consisted of the -miserable handkerchief which was tied about his head, and his girdle, -or cummerbund, who, after the usual salutation, sat himself down by his -side. Tavernier had long learned to pay but little attention to exteriors -in this class of people, since he had found that many of them whose -appearance denoted extreme poverty, and might have excited the charitable -feelings of the passer-by, nevertheless carried concealed about their -persons a collection of diamonds which those who pitied them would have -been extremely proud to possess. He therefore conducted himself politely -towards the banyan, who, after a few civilities had passed between them, -inquired through the interpreter whether he would like to purchase a few -rubies. Having replied that he should be glad to examine them, the banyan -drew forth from his girdle about twenty ruby rings, which our traveller -said were too small for his purpose, but that nevertheless he would -purchase one of them. As the merchant seemed to regard the attendance -of the governor’s servants as a restraint upon his actions, further -conversation was delayed until evening prayer should have called them to -the mosque; but three only attended to the muezzin’s summons, the fourth -remaining to enact the spy during their absence. Tavernier, however, -whom a long residence in the East had rendered politic, now suddenly -recollected that he was in want of bread; and the trusty Mohammedan being -despatched in quest of it, he was left alone with his interpreter and -the merchant. As soon as the spy was departed the Indian began to untie -his long hair, which, according to custom, he wore plaited in many a -fold upon the crown of his head, and as it parted and fell down upon his -shoulder, a tiny packet wrapped in a linen rag dropped out. This proved -to be a diamond of singular size and beauty, which Tavernier, when it was -put into his hands, regarded with the greatest interest and curiosity. -“You need not,” said the banyan, “amuse yourself with examining the stone -at present. To-morrow, if you will meet me alone at nine o’clock in the -morning, on the outside of the town, you may view it at your leisure.” -He then stated the exact price of his gem and departed. Tavernier, who -now coveted this stone with the eagerness and passion of a lover, did not -fail to repair to the spot at the appointed moment, with the necessary -sum of gold pagodas in his bag; and after considerable negotiation -succeeded in making it his own. - -Three days after this fortunate purchase, while his heart was elate with -success, and flattered with self-congratulations, he received a letter -from Golconda which cast a shadow over his prospects. It came from the -person with whom he had intrusted his money, and informed him that on -the very day after he had received his trust he had been attacked with -dysentery, which, he doubted not, would speedily conduct him to the -grave. He therefore entreated Tavernier to hasten to the spot, in order -to take charge of his own property, which, he assured him, would now be -far from secure; that should he arrive in time, he would find it sealed -up in bags, and placed in a certain chamber; but that, as at furthest he -had but two days to live, not a moment ought to be lost. Not having as -yet completed his purchases, for he had still twenty thousand pagodas -unemployed, he was in some perplexity respecting the course he ought -to pursue; but as the danger was considerable, he at length resolved -to set out at once. It being imperative upon him, however, first to -pay the royal dues upon what he had bought, he immediately repaired -to the governor to perform this duty, and to take his leave. By this -man’s good offices he was enabled at once to employ the remainder of -his capital; which having done, he departed in all haste for Golconda, -with apprehensions of pillage in his mind, and a long journey before -him. To ensure his safety in the dominions of Beajapoor, the governor -of the mines had granted him a guard of six horsemen, and thus escorted -he pushed on rapidly. In due time he arrived at Golconda, and going -straight towards his golden _kėbleh_, found the chamber in which his -wealth had been deposited locked, and sealed with two seals, that of the -kadi, and that of the chief of the merchants, his correspondent having -been dead three days. His apprehension and alarm, he now found, had all -been needless; for upon proving his right to the money, which it was not -difficult for him to do, his property was restored to him without delay. - -This sad affair being concluded, he set out upon his visit to the mines -of Colour, seven days’ journey east of Golconda, or Hyderabad. These were -situated upon a plain, flanked on one side by a river, and on the other -by lofty mountains, which swept round in the form of a half-moon. The -discovery of these mines was made by a peasant, who, turning up the soil -for the purpose of sowing millet, perceived a small pointed sparkling -stone at his feet, which he picked up, and carrying to Golconda, found -an honest merchant, who disclosed to him the value of his treasure. The -discovery was soon rumoured about; merchants and speculators crowded -to the spot, and gems of the most extraordinary magnitude and beauty, -the equal of which had never before been seen, were dug up out of the -earth of this plain, and among others that famous diamond of Aurungzebe, -which when rough weighed nine hundred carats. When they would judge of -the water of a diamond, the Hindoos of Colour placed a lamp in a small -aperture in a wall by night, and holding the stone between their fingers -in the stream of light thrown out by the lamp, thought they could thus -discern its beauties or defects more certainly than by day. - -Upon his arrival at Colour upwards of sixty thousand persons, men, women, -and children, were at work upon the plain, the men being employed in -digging up the earth, and their wives and children in carrying it to -the spot where it was sifted for the jewels. Nevertheless, many of the -stones found here fell in pieces under the wheel; and a remarkably large -one, which was carried to Italy by a Jew, and valued at thirty thousand -piastres, burst into nine pieces while it was polishing at Venice. - -The third mine, the most ancient in India, was situated near Sumbhulpoor, -in Gundwana, at that period included, according to Tavernier, in the -kingdom of Bengal. The diamonds were here found in the sands of the -Mahanuddy, near its confluence with the Hebe; but our traveller strangely -travesties the name of this river into _Gouel_, and, indeed, generally -makes such havoc with names that there is often much difficulty in -discovering what places are meant. However, when the great rains, which -usually took place in December, were over, the river was allowed the -whole month of January to clear, and shrink to its ordinary dimensions, -when large beds of sand were left uncovered. The inhabitants of -Sumbhulpoor, and of another small town in the vicinity, then issued -forth, to the number of eight thousand, and began to examine the -appearance of the sands. If they perceived upon any spot certain small -stones, resembling what are called thunder-stones in Europe, they -immediately concluded that there were gems concealed below; and having -enclosed a considerable space with poles and fascines, began to scoop up -the sand, and convey it to a place prepared for its reception upon the -shore. Hamilton and other modern authorities, however, observe, that the -diamonds are found in a matrix of red clay, which is washed down among -heaps of earth of the same colour from the neighbouring mountains, and -that in the sand of the same rivulets which contain the gems considerable -quantities of gold are likewise discovered. - -I have here thrown together the result of several visits to the -diamond-mines, to avoid the necessity of returning again and again, -after the manner of our traveller himself, to the same spot; and shall -now accompany him through Surat to Agra and Delhi. Having returned to -Surat with his jewels, and advantageously disposed of a part of them in -that city, he departed with the remainder for the capital. At Baroche, -in Guzerat, he witnessed the astonishing performances of those jugglers -whose achievements have been the wonder of travellers from the days of -Megasthenes down to the present moment, and in a barbarous age might well -justify the faith of mankind in the powers of magic. The first feat they -performed was to make the chains with which their bodies were encircled -red-hot, by means of an immense fire which they had kindled, and the -touch of these they bore without shrinking, or seeming to feel any thing -beyond a slight inconvenience. They next took a small piece of wood, -and having planted it in the earth, demanded of one of the bystanders -what fruit they should cause it to produce. The company replied that -they wished to see _mangoes_. One of the jugglers then wrapped himself -in a sheet, and crouched down to the earth several times in succession. -Tavernier, whom all this diablerie delighted exceedingly, ascended to the -window of an upper chamber for the purpose of beholding more distinctly -the whole proceedings of the magician, and through a rent in the sheet -saw him cut himself under the arms with a razor, and rub the piece of -wood with his blood. Every time he rose from his crouching posture the -bit of wood grew visibly, and at the third time branches and buds sprang -out.—The tree, which had now attained the height of five or six feet, -was next covered with leaves, and then with flowers. At this instant an -English clergyman arrived: the performance taking place at the house of -one of our countrymen, and perceiving in what practices the jugglers -were engaged, commanded them instantly to desist, threatening the -whole of the Europeans present with exclusion from the holy communion -if they persisted in encouraging the diabolical arts of sorcerers and -magicians. The zeal of this hot-headed son of the church put a stop to -the exhibition, and prevented our traveller from beholding the crowning -miracle. The peacock, which is found in a state of nature in all parts of -Hindostan, was at that period peculiarly plentiful in the neighbourhood -of Cambay and Baroche, and its flesh when young was considered equal to -that of the turkey.—Being exceedingly wild and timid, it could only be -approached by night, when many curious arts were put in practice for -taking it. - -The next considerable city at which he arrived was Ahmedabad, where, -during his stay a very extraordinary circumstance took place, which was -long the subject of wonder in that part of the country. Over the river -which flows by this city there was no bridge. The richer and more genteel -part of the population, however, passed the stream in large boats which -plied continually for passengers; but the peasantry, who grudged or -could ill afford the expense, swam over upon inflated goat-skins; and -when they happened to have their children with them they were put into -so many large earthen pots, which the swimmers pushed before them with -their hands. A peasant and his wife crossing the river in this manner, -with their only child in a pot before them, found about the middle of the -stream a small sandbank, upon which there was an old tree that had been -rolled down by the current. Here, being somewhat exhausted, they pushed -the pot towards the tree, in the hope of being able to rest a moment; -but before they had touched the bank a serpent sprang out from among the -roots, and in an instant glided into the pot to the child. Stupified -with fear and horror, the parents allowed the pot to float away with -the current, and having remained half-dead at the foot of the tree for -some time, found, upon the recovery of their senses, that their child -had either sunk in the stream, or floated Heaven only knew whither. The -little fellow in the pot and his serpent, however, sailed merrily down -the river together, and had already proceeded about two leagues towards -the sea, when a Hindoo and his wife, who were bathing upon the edge of -the stream, saw the child’s head peeping out of the pot. The husband, -prompted by humanity, immediately swam out, and overtaking the child in -his singular little nest, pushed it before him towards the shore. But no -sooner was the act performed than he found bitter cause to repent that -he had achieved it, for the serpent, which had harmlessly curled round -his little fellow-voyager down the current, now darted from the pot, and -winding itself round the body of the Hindoo’s child, immediately stung -it, and caused its death. Supposing that Providence had deprived them of -one child only to make way for another, they adopted the stranger, and -considered him as their own. But the strangeness of the event exciting -great astonishment in the country, the news at length reached the real -father of the child, who forthwith came and demanded his offspring. The -adoptive father resisting this demand, the affair was brought before -the king, who very properly adjudged the infant to its natural parent, -though, by saving its life, the other had certainly acquired some -claim to it, the more especially as by effecting his purpose he had -accidentally rendered himself childless. - -On his arrival at Delhi, our traveller assiduously applied himself to -business, and having disposed of his jewelry to his satisfaction, partly -to the Great Mogul, and partly to his courtiers, repaired to court -to make his final obeisance to the monarch before his departure. The -emperor, who loved to exhibit his riches and magnificence to strangers, -particularly to those who were likely to be dazzled, and to render an -inflated account of them to the world, caused him to be informed that he -wished him to remain during the approaching festival in honour of his -birthday, when the annual ceremony of ascertaining the exact weight of -his royal person was to take place. It was now the 1st of November, and -the festival, which usually lasted five days, was to begin on the 4th; -but the preparations, which had been commenced on the 7th of September, -were now nearly completed, and all Delhi looked forward with joy to -the approaching rejoicings. The two spacious courts of the palace were -covered with lofty tents of crimson velvet, inwrought with gold; the -immense poles which sustained them, many of which were forty feet high, -and of the thickness of a ship’s mast, were cased with solid plates of -silver or gold. Around the first court, beneath a range of porticoes, -were numerous small chambers, destined for the omrahs on guard. Between -these, on the days of the festival, the spectators moved into the amkas, -or great hall of audience, which, together with the peacock throne, I -shall describe in the life of Bernier. The emperor, being seated upon his -throne, a troop of the most skilful dancing-girls was brought in, who, -with gestures and motions more voluptuous than the ancient performers of -the Chironomia ever practised, amused the imagination of the monarch and -his courtiers, and excited the amazement of foreigners at the licenses -of an Asiatic court. On both sides of the throne were fifteen horses, -with bridles and housings crusted with diamonds, rubies, pearls, and -emeralds, and held each by two men; and shortly after the commencement of -the ceremony, seven war-elephants, of the largest size, caparisoned in -the most gorgeous style, were led in one after the other, and caused to -make the circuit of the hall: when they came opposite the throne, each -in his turn made his obeisance to the sovereign, by thrice lowering his -trunk to the floor, and accompanying each movement by a loud and piercing -cry. This exhibition being concluded, the emperor arose, and retired with -three or four of the principal eunuchs into the harem. At an auspicious -moment during the festival, a large pair of scales was brought into the -amkas, the emperor’s weight was ascertained, and if greater than on the -preceding year, singular rejoicings and triumphant shouts took place; -but if, on the contrary, his majesty was found to be less unwieldy than -heretofore, the event was regarded with apprehension and sorrow. - -Two or three days previous to the barometry of the mogul, our traveller -enjoyed the flattering privilege of beholding the imperial jewels. -Having been first admitted to an audience, he was led by one of the -principal courtiers into a small chamber contiguous to the hall of -audience, whither the unrivalled collection of gems was brought for his -inspection by four eunuchs. They were laid out like fruit in two large -wooden bowls, highly varnished, and exquisitely ornamented with delicate -golden foliage. They were then uncovered, counted over thrice, and as -many lists of them made out by three different scribes. Tavernier, who -viewed all these things with the eyes of a jeweller, rather than as a -traveller, curious to observe and examine, scrutinized them piece by -piece, descanting upon their mercantile value, and the modes of cutting -and polishing by which they might have been rendered more beautiful. In -this mood he feasted his eyes upon diamonds of incomparable magnitude -and lustre; upon chains of rubies, strings of orient pearls, amethysts, -opals, topazes, and emeralds, various in form, and each reflecting -additional light and beauty upon the other. - -Having beheld these professional curiosities, he left the Mogul court, -and proceeded by the ordinary route towards Bengal. The Ganges, where he -crossed it, in company with Bernier, he found no larger than the Seine -opposite the Louvre, an insignificant stream which scarcely deserves the -name of a river. At Benares he observed the narrowest streets and the -loftiest houses which he had seen in Hindostan, a circumstance remarked -by all travellers, and among the rest by Heber, who says, “The houses -are mostly lofty; none, I think, less than two stories, most of three, -and several of five or six, a sight which I now for the first time saw -in India. The streets, like those of Chester, are considerably lower -than the ground floors of the houses, which have mostly arched rows in -front, with little shops behind them. Above these the houses are richly -embellished with verandahs, galleries, projecting oriel windows, and very -broad and overhanging coves, supported by carved brackets.” The opposite -sides of the streets stand so near to each other in many places that they -are united by galleries. The number of stone and brick houses in the city -are upwards of twelve thousand, of clay houses sixteen thousand; and -the population in 1803 considerably exceeded half a million. Benares, -according to the Brahmins, forms no part of the terrestrial globe, but -rests upon the thousand-headed serpent Anarta, or Eternity: or, according -to others, on the point of Siva’s trident, and hence no earthquakes are -ever felt there. The Great Lingam, or Phallies, of Benares, is said to -be a petrifaction of Siva himself; and the worship of this emblem of the -godhead so generally prevails here, that the city contains at least a -million images of the Lingam. This holy city, the Brahmins assure us, was -originally built of gold, but for the sins of mankind it was successively -degraded to stone, and brick, and clay. - -From Benares he proceeded through Patna and Rajmahel to Daca, then a -flourishing city; whence, having disposed of numerous jewels to the -nawâb, he returned to Delhi. - -To avoid repetitions and perplexing breaks in the narrative, I have paid -no attention to the date of his visits to this or that city; and, indeed, -so confused were his notes and his memory, that he does not seem to have -known very well himself during which of his journeys many events which -he relates took place. Into the particulars of his voyage to Ceylon, -Sumatra, and Java it is unnecessary to enter, more full and curious -accounts of those islands occurring in other travellers. - -On his return to France from his fifth visit to the East, he married an -_ancient_ damsel, to borrow an epithet from Burke, merely from gratitude -to her father, who was a jeweller, and had rendered him several essential -services. After this he undertook one more journey into Asia, with -merchandise to the value of four hundred thousand livres, consisting -of curious clocks, crystal and agate vases, pearls, and other jewelry. -This expedition occupied him six years, during which he advanced farther -towards the east than he had hitherto done; and having in this and his -other journeys amassed considerable wealth, he returned with a splendid -assortment of diamonds to France, having been engaged upwards of forty -years in travelling. Disposing of these jewels advantageously to the -French king, who granted him a patent of nobility, he now conceived -that all his wanderings were at an end, and began to think of enjoying -the wealth he had purchased with so much time and toil and difficulty. -Experience, however, had not rendered him wise. Puffed up with the vanity -inspired by his patent of nobility, his whole soul was now wrapped up -in visions of luxury and magnificence. He rented a splendid house, set -up a carriage, and hired a number of valets. The nobility, who no doubt -devoured his adventures and his dinners with equal greediness, flocked -about him, invited, caressed, flattered, and ruined him. - - Live like yourself was now my lady’s word! - -He was prevailed upon by some of his noble friends, who supposed him -to be possessed of the wealth of Crœsus, to purchase a baronial castle -and estate near Lyons, the repairs of which, united with the absurd -expenses of his household, quickly threatened to plunge him into the -poverty and obscurity from which he originally rose. To accelerate this -unhappy catastrophe, undoubtedly owing principally to his own folly, his -nephew, to whose management he had intrusted a valuable venture in the -hope of retrieving his shattered fortune, proved dishonest, married, -and remained in the East, appropriating to his own use the property of -his uncle. To increase the consternation caused in his family by these -private calamities, it was rumoured that the edict of Nantes was about to -be revoked, which induced him immediately to dispose of his estate, and -prepare to emigrate with the great body of the Protestants out of France. -Time for proper negotiations not being allowed, the barony was sold -for considerably less than it had cost him; and every thing now going -unprosperously with our noble jeweller, his family retired to Berlin, -while he repaired, in an obscure manner, to Paris, in quest of funds for -another journey into the East. - -Tavernier was now in his eighty-third year, broken in spirits, ruined in -fortune, and bending beneath the effects of age; but his courage had not -forsaken him. He succeeded by dint of great exertions in getting together -a considerable venture, and departed for Hindostan by way of Russia and -Tartary. That he arrived safely at Moscow is tolerably certain; but in -this city we lose sight of him; some writers affirming that he died -there, while others more confidently assert, that having spent some -time at this ancient capital of Russia, he continued his journey, and -embarked with his merchandise in a bark upon the Volga, with the design -of descending that river to the Caspian Sea. Whether this wretched bark -foundered in the stream, or, which is more probable, was plundered, and -its crew and passengers massacred by the Tartars, is what has never been -ascertained. At all events, Tavernier here disappears, for no tidings of -him ever reached France from that time. He is supposed to have died in -1685, or 1686. - -His works have gone through several editions, and may be consulted -with advantage by the students of Asiatic manners, though the style, -which is that of some miserable compiler whom he employed to digest his -rough memoirs, be intolerably bald and enervate; while the method and -arrangement are, perhaps, the worst that could have been adopted. Had he -contented himself with the simple form of a journal, narrating events -as they occurred, and describing things as they presented themselves to -his notice, he could not have been more prolix, and would undoubtedly -have rendered his work more agreeable and useful. As a traveller, he -is undoubtedly entitled to the praise of enterprise and perseverance; -no dangers appalled, no misfortunes depressed him; but his remarks are -always rather the remarks of a trader than of a traveller. Wealth was -his grand object; knowledge and fame things of secondary consideration. -The former, however, he gained and lost; his reputation, though far less -brilliant than that of many other travellers, remains to him, and will -long remain a monument of what can be effected by persevering mediocrity. - - - - -FRANÇOIS BERNIER. - -Born about 1624.—Died 1688. - - -This distinguished traveller was born at Angers about the year 1624. -Though educated for the medical profession, and actuated in an -extraordinary manner by that ardour for philosophical speculation -which pervaded his literary contemporaries, the passion for travelling -prevailed over every other; so that, having prepared himself by severe -study for visiting distant countries with advantage, and taken his -doctor’s degree at Montpellier, he departed from France in the year 1654, -and passed over into Syria. From thence he proceeded to Egypt, where -he remained upwards of a year. In this country he assiduously occupied -himself in inquiries respecting the sources of the Nile, the time and -manner of its rise, the causes and nature of the plague, and the fall -of that dew which is said to deprive its virus of all activity. Being -at Rosetta eight or ten days after this dew had shed its mysterious -moisture over the earth, he had an opportunity, which had like to have -cost him dear, of discovering the absurdity of the popular belief upon -this subject. He was at supper with a party of friends at the house of M. -Bermon, vice-consul of France, when three persons were suddenly stricken -with the plague. Of these, two died in the course of eight days; and the -third, who was M. Bermon himself, seemed likely to follow their example, -when our medical traveller undertook the treatment of his disease. What -medicines he administered to his patient he has not stated, but he -lanced the pestiferous pustules which rose upon the skin; and either by -performing this operation, or by inhaling the infected atmosphere of the -sick chamber, himself caught the infection. The patient now recovered, -while the physician in turn became the prey of disease. When Bernier -perceived himself to be in the plague, the first step he took was to -swallow an emetic of butter of antimony, which, together with the natural -force of his constitution, subdued the disorder, and enabled him in the -course of three or four days to resume his ordinary pursuits. He was, -perhaps, somewhat indebted to his Bedouin attendant for the preservation -of his cheerfulness and tranquillity during his illness. This man, -relying, or appearing to rely, upon the doctrine of predestination, in -order to cheer and encourage him, by showing him how lightly he thought -of the matter, used daily to eat the remainder of the food which his sick -master had touched. - -Having satisfied his curiosity respecting Egypt, and visited Mount -Sinai and the neighbouring deserts, he proceeded to Suez, and embarked -in an Arab vessel for Jidda. The Turkish bey, then governor of this -post, had deluded him with the hope of being able to visit Mecca and -the Kaaba, places interdicted to all Christians; but having waited -for this permission thirty-four days, and perceiving no likelihood of -obtaining it, he again embarked; and sailing for fifteen days along the -coast of Arabia Felix, or Yeman, arrived at Mokha, near the straits of -Babelmandel. During his stay in this city, he partook of the hospitality -of Murad, an Armenian Christian, and a native of Aleppo, but who had -settled in Abyssinia, whence he was now come into Arabia with a number -of black slaves to be disposed of for the benefit of the Abyssinian -king, from whom he likewise bore the customary annual present which that -august monarch made to the English and Dutch East India companies, in -the hope of receiving one of greater value in return. With the proceeds -of the slaves Indian merchandise was purchased; so that in exchange -for a few useless subjects, his Abyssinian majesty annually received a -large quantity of fine muslins, spices, and diamonds. With this honest -Armenian merchant our traveller had a very characteristic transaction, -which, although it happened some time after the visit to Mokha, may very -well come in here. Murad, it seems, in addition to his Aleppine wife, -maintained a harem of Nubian or Abyssinian girls, by one of whom he had -a son, who to the pure black complexion of his mother united the fine -handsome features peculiar to the Caucasian race. This noble little -fellow Murad, who was desirous of turning the produce of his harem to -account, offered to sell M. Bernier for fifty rupees; but observing that -his guest was extremely anxious to possess the prize, he suddenly changed -his mind, and refused to part with his darling son for less than three -hundred rupees. At this strange instance of rapacity our traveller became -offended, and broke off the negotiation; though, as he tells us, he was -peculiarly desirous of concluding the bargain, as much for the sake of -the boy as for the purpose of seeing a father sell his own child. There -seems, however, to be some reason for suspecting that the Armenian was -not quite so nearly related to the boy as he pretended, his paternity -being in all probability feigned, for the purpose of enhancing the price -of his little slave. - -From Mokha it was Bernier’s intention to have crossed the Red Sea to the -island of Mesowa and Arkiko, from whence he expected an easy passage -might be obtained into the country of Habesh or Abyssinia. To dissuade -him from his purpose, however, Murad and others, who might, perhaps, have -had some sinister motives for their conduct, assured him, that since the -expulsion of the Jesuits, effected by the intrigues of the queen-mother, -no Roman Catholic was secure in the country, where a poor Capuchin -friar, who attempted to enter it by way of Snakin, had recently lost his -head. These and other considerations turned the current of his ideas. He -abandoned Africa, and, embarking on board of an Indian ship bound for -Surat, sought the shores of Hindostan. - -On the arrival of our traveller in India, those fratricidal wars between -the sons of Shah Johan, which terminated with the dethronement of the -aged emperor and the accession of Aurungzebe to the throne of Delhi, -had already commenced, and confusion, terror, and anarchy prevailed -throughout the empire. Nevertheless Bernier hastened to the capital, -where, finding that partly by robbery, partly by the ordinary expenses of -travelling, his finances had been reduced to a very low ebb, he contrived -to be appointed one of the physicians to the Great Mogul. - -About twelve months before Bernier’s appointment to this office, the -emperor, who, though upwards of seventy, was immoderately addicted to -the excesses of the harem, had become grievously ill from that disorder, -it is supposed, which cut off untimely the chivalrous rival of the -Emperor Charles V. His four sons imagining, and all, indeed, excepting -the eldest, ardently desiring, that he might be drawing near his end, -had at once rushed to arms, and with powerful armaments collected in -their various subahs, or governments, had advanced towards the capital, -each animated by the hope of opening himself a way to _musnud_ through -the hearts of his brethren. Their battles, negotiations, intrigues, and -mutual treachery, though related in a vivid and energetic manner by -Bernier, can find no place in this narrative. Aurungzebe, having defeated -and put to flight the Rajah Jesswunt Singh, was now advancing towards the -capital, when his eldest brother, Dara, incensed at his audacity, and -naturally impatient of delay, advanced with the imperial army towards the -Chumbul and that range of mountain passes which extends between the Jumna -and Guzerat. Here a battle was fought, in which Aurungzebe was victor. -Dara, with the wretched remnant of his forces, fled towards Ahmedabad, -the ancient Mohammedan capital of Guzerat. In this miserable plight he -was met by Bernier, whom the prince, who had known him at Delhi, and had -now no medical attendant, compelled to follow in his train. In the East -misfortune is singularly efficacious in thinning the ranks of a prince’s -retinue. Dara was now accompanied by little more than two thousand men, -and this number, moreover, was daily diminished by the peasantry of -the country, a wild and savage race, who hung upon his rear, pillaging -and murdering all those who lagged for a moment behind the body of the -army. It was now the midst of summer; the heat was tremendous; and the -fugitives, without baggage or tents, had to make their way over the naked -sandy plains of Ajmere, by day exposed to the intolerable rays of the -sun, and by night to the dews and chilling blasts which sometimes issue -from the northern mountains. However, the prince and his followers pushed -on rapidly, and now began to entertain some hopes of safety, having -approached to within one day’s journey of Ahmedabad, the governor of -which had been promoted to the post by Dara himself. But the emissaries -and the gold of Aurungzebe had already done their work at Ahmedabad. The -treacherous governor, on hearing of the near approach of the prince, -wrote to prohibit his drawing nearer the city, informing him that if he -persisted he would find the gates shut, and the people in arms against -him. On the evening before this news was brought to him, Dara had taken -refuge with his harem in a caravansary, into which, in spite of the -natural aversion of all orientals to introduce strangers among the women -of their anderûn, he kindly invited Bernier, apprehending lest the -sanguinary peasantry should beat out his brains in the darkness. Here it -was melancholy to see the shifts to which this unfortunate prince was -driven to have recourse for the preserving, even in this last extremity, -of the dignity of his harem; for, possessing neither tent nor any other -effectual covering, he caused a few slight screens to be fixed up, in -order to maintain some semblance of seclusion, and these were kept steady -by being tied to the wheels of Bernier’s wagon. - -Meanwhile, as the determination of the governor of Ahmedabad was not -yet known, the most intense anxiety prevailed among the fugitives. -Every gust which moaned along the surrounding waste appeared to their -half-slumbering senses to announce the approach of some messenger. -The hours, which seem to flit away so rapidly when men are happy, now -appeared so many ages. Time and the wheeling stars above their heads -seemed to stand still; and their very souls were sick with expectation. -At length, as the red dawn began to appear in the east, a single horseman -was discovered scouring across the plain. His tidings from Ahmedabad were -such as have been related above. Upon hearing this dreadful intelligence, -the ladies of the harem, who had hitherto consoled themselves with the -hope of tasting a little repose in that city, which had become a kind of -land of promise in their eyes, gave themselves up wholly to despair, and -tears, sobs, and the most passionate lamentations burst unrestrainedly -forth, and brought tears into the eyes of many not much used to weeping. -Every thing was now thrown into the utmost trouble and confusion. Each -person looked at the face of his neighbour, in the hope of discovering -some ray of consolation, some sign of counsel, fore-thought, or -magnanimity. But all was blank. Not a soul could advise any thing for -the general safety, or knew how to avert the doom which impended over -himself. Presently, however, Dara, half-dead with grief, came out to his -people, and addressed himself now to one person, now to another, even to -the meanest soldier. He perceived that terror had seized upon every soul, -and that they were all about to abandon him. What was to be his fate? -Whither could he fly? It was necessary to depart instantly. The condition -of the army may be conjectured from that of our traveller. The wagon in -which he travelled had been drawn by three large Guzerat oxen, one of -which had died on the previous day from fatigue, another was now dying, -and the third was wholly unable to move. Nevertheless, the prince, who -stood in need of his aid both for himself and for one of his wives, who -had been wounded in the leg, found it absolutely impossible to procure -either horse, ox, or camel for his use, and was therefore compelled -to leave him behind. Bernier saw him depart with tears in his eyes, -accompanied at most by four or five horsemen, and two elephants said to -be loaded with silver and gold. He struck off towards Tettabakar, through -pathless deserts of sand, where, for the most part, not a drop of water -was to be found; and though, as afterward appeared, he actually succeeded -in reaching the point of destination, several of his followers, and, -indeed, many of his harem, died by the way of thirst or fatigue, or were -murdered by the banditti. - -Bernier, being thus abandoned by the ill-fated prince, in a country -overrun with robbers, was at a loss what course to pursue. The -circumstances of the moment, however, left him no time for deliberation; -for no sooner had Dara and his train disappeared than our traveller’s -wagon was surrounded by the banditti, who forthwith commenced the -work of plunder. Fortunately, his servant and driver preserved their -presence of mind, and, addressing themselves to the marauders, began to -inquire whether they would thus pillage the effects of a man who was the -first physician in the world, and had already been deprived of the most -valuable part of his property by the satellites of Dara. At the mention -of the word _physician_ these fierce banditti, who, like all barbarians, -entertained a kind of innate reverence for the children of Esculapius, -were rendered as mild as gazelles, and their hostile intentions were -changed into friendship. They now regarded this second Pæon as their -guest, and, having detained him seven or eight days, kindly furnished -him with an ox to draw his wagon, and served him as guides and guards -until the towers of Ahmedabad appeared in sight. At this city he remained -several days, when an emir, returning thence to Delhi, afforded him the -protection of his authority, and enabled him to perform the journey with -safety. The road over which they travelled exhibited numerous traces of -the calamities of the times, being strewed at intervals with the dead -bodies of men, elephants, camels, horses, and oxen, the wrecks of the -wretched army of Dara. - -Aurungzebe, having outwitted and imprisoned his father, was now in -possession of Delhi and the imperial throne, and exerted all the force -of his versatile and subtle genius to gain possession of the persons of -his enemies. Dara, the principal of these, was soon afterward betrayed -into his hands, and brought to Delhi upon an elephant, bound hand and -foot, with an executioner behind him, who upon the least movement was to -cut off his head. When he arrived at the gate of the city, Aurungzebe -began to deliberate whether it would be altogether safe, under present -circumstances, to parade him in this style through the streets, -considering the affection which the people had always borne him; but -it was at length determined to hazard the step, for the purpose of -convincing those who admired him of his utter fall, and of the consequent -extinction of their hopes. His rich garments, his jewelled turban, his -magnificent necklace of pearls, had been taken from him, and a dirty and -miserable dress, such as would have suited some poor groom, bestowed in -their stead; and thus habited, and mounted with his little son upon a -poor half-starved elephant, he was led through the streets, lanes, and -bazaars of the capital, that the people might behold the fortune of their -favourite, and despair of his ever rising again. Expecting that some -strange revolution or horrible slaughter would inevitably ensue, Bernier -had repaired on horseback, with a small party of friends and two stout -servants, to the grand bazaar, where the most prodigious crowds were -assembled, in order to witness whatever might take place; but although -the multitude burst into tears at the sight, and overwhelmed the wretch -who had betrayed him, and was then on horseback by his side, with the -most dire imprecations, not a sword was drawn, or a drop of blood spilt. - -During the course of these public events Bernier became physician to -Danekmand Khan, the favourite of Aurungzebe. Upon this appointment, he -seems to have been introduced at court, and presented to the emperor; -upon which occasion he kissed the hem of the imperial garment, and -offered, for so custom ordered, eight rupees as a gift to the richest -sovereign upon earth. He was now perfectly at his ease, enjoying, -besides a liberal salary, which seems to have answered all his wishes, -the friendship of the khan, a learned, inquisitive, and generous-minded -man, who devoted those hours which others spent in debauchery to the -discussion of philosophical questions, and conversations on the merits -of Descartes and Gassendi. By the favour of this nobleman the entry to -the palace was open to him on all public occasions. He witnessed the -audience of foreign ambassadors, the pomp of the imperial banquets, and -was admitted, under certain circumstances, into the recesses of the harem. - -Upon the termination of the civil wars, the Usbecks of Balkh and -Samarcand, who, having formerly offered a grievous insult to Aurungzebe -when he seemed little likely to ascend the imperial _musnud_, had now -some reason to apprehend the effects of his resentment, despatched -ambassadors to congratulate him upon his accession to the throne, and to -make him a tender of their services. When these barbarians were admitted -to an audience, Bernier, according to custom, was present. Being admitted -into the imperial chamber, they made, while yet at a considerable -distance from the throne, their salām to the emperor, after the Indian -manner. This ceremony consisted in thrice placing the hand upon the head, -and as frequently lowering it to the earth; after which they advanced -so near the throne that, had he chosen to do so, the emperor might have -taken their letters from their own hands; but this compliment he did not -condescend to pay them, ordering one of his emirs to receive and present -them to him. Having perused these letters with a serious air, he caused -each of the ambassadors to be presented with a robe of brocade, a turban, -and a scarf or girdle of embroidered silk. The presents were then brought -forward. They consisted of several boxes of lapis lazuli, a number of -long-haired camels, several magnificent Tartarian horses, with many -camel-loads of fresh fruit, such as apples, pears, grapes, and melons, -articles which their country usually furnished for the Delhi market, and -an equal quantity of dried fruits, as Bokham prunes, Kishmish apricots -or grapes without stones, and two other species of fine large grapes. -Aurungzebe bestowed high commendations upon each article as it was -presented, praised the generosity of the khans, and having made some few -inquiries respecting the academy of Samarcand, dismissed the ambassadors -with the complimentary wish that he might see them frequently. - -These honest men, who were exceedingly pleased at their reception, were -nevertheless constrained to wait four months at Delhi before they could -obtain their dismissal; during which time they all fell sick, and many of -them died, rather, according to Bernier, from the bad quality of their -food, and their contempt of cleanliness, than from the effect of the -climate. Judging from this specimen, our traveller pronounced the Usbecks -the most avaricious and sordid people upon earth; for, though furnished -by the emperor with the means of living, they preferred defrauding their -stomachs and hazarding their lives, to the idea of parting with their -gold, and subsisted in a very wretched and mean style. When dismissed, -however, they were treated with great distinction. The emperor and all -his emirs presented them with rich dresses and eight thousand rupees -each; together with splendid robes, a large quantity of exquisitely -flowered brocade, bales of fine muslin, and of silk striped with gold or -silver, and a number of carpets and two jewelled khaudjars, or poniards, -for their masters. - -In the hope of learning something respecting their country, Bernier -frequently visited them during their stay, but found them so grossly -ignorant that they were unable to make any important additions to his -knowledge. They invited him to dinner, however, and thus afforded his -curiosity a glance at their domestic manners. Among them a stranger, as -might be expected, was not overwhelmed with ceremony, and so far they -were polite. The viands, which our traveller considered extraordinary, -consisted of excellent horse-flesh, a very good ragout, and an abundance -of pilau, which his robust hosts found so much to their taste, that -during the repast they could not snatch a single moment to waste on -conversation. Their guest, with infinite good taste, imitated their -example, made a hearty dinner; and then, when the horse-flesh, pilau, and -all had been devoured, they found their tongue, and entertained him with -panegyrics upon their own skill in archery, and the amazonian prowess and -ferocity of their women. In illustration of the latter, they related an -anecdote which, as highly characteristic, may be worth repeating. When -Aurungzebe formerly led an army against the khan of Samarcand, a party -of twenty or thirty Hindoo horsemen attacked a small village, which they -plundered, and were engaged in binding a number of the inhabitants whom -they intended to dispose of as slaves, when an old woman came up to -them and said, “My children, be not so cruel. My daughter, who is not -greatly addicted to mercy, will be here presently. Retire, if you are -wise. Should she meet with you, you are undone.” The soldiers, however, -not only laughed at the old woman and her counsel, but seized and tied -her also. They had not proceeded above half a league with their booty, -when their aged prisoner, who never ceased turning her eyes towards the -village, uttered a scream of joy, for by the cloud of dust which she -beheld rising on the plain she knew her daughter was advancing to the -rescue. On turning round, the soldiers beheld the amazon mounted on a -fiery war-horse, with her bow and quiver by her side. She now raised -her stentorian voice, and commanded them as they valued their lives -to release their prisoners, and carry back whatever they had taken to -the village, in which case she would spare them. But they regarded her -menaces no more than they had those of her mother. When three or four of -the party, however, had felt the point of her arrows in their heart, and -were stretched upon the earth, they began to be a little more alarmed, -and had recourse to their own bows. But all their arrows fell short of -the mark, while her powerful bow and arm sent every weapon home, so that -she quickly despatched the greater number of her enemies, and having -dispersed and terrified the remainder, rushed upon them sabre in hand, -and hewed them to pieces. - -During the number of years which Bernier spent in Hindostan in a -position peculiarly favourable to observation, he possessed ample -leisure for correcting and maturing his opinions. His views, therefore, -are entitled to the highest respect, the more especially as no trait -of gasconading is visible in his character, and no touch of rhetorical -flourishing in his style. His countrymen, in general, assuming Paris as -the standard of whatever is noble or beautiful in architecture, describe -every thing which differs from their type as inferior; but Bernier, -whom philosophy had delivered from this paltry nationality, without -depreciating the capital of his own country, observes, that whatever -might be its beauties, they would be but so many defects could the city -be transported to the plains of Hindostan, the climate requiring other -modes of building, and different arrangements. Delhi was, in fact, a -magnificent city in his times. Whatever Asia could furnish of barbaric -pomp or gorgeous show was there collected together, and disposed with as -much taste as Mongol or Persian art could give birth to. Domes of vast -circumference and fantastic swell crowned the summits of the mosques, -and towered aloft above the other structures of the city; palaces, cool, -airy, grotesque, with twisted pillars, balustrades of silver, and roofs -of fretted gold; elephants moving their awkward and cumbrous bulk to -and fro, disguised in glittering housings, and surmounted with golden -houdahs; and gardens, shaded and perfumed by all the most splendid trees -and sweetest flowers of Asia: such were the principal features of Delhi. - -Our traveller did not at first relish the Mussulman music, its loud -ear-piercing tones being too powerful for his tympanum. By degrees, -however, their hautboys of a fathom and a half in length, and their -cymbals of copper or iron not less than a fathom in circumference, which -appeared to make the very earth tremble with their tremendous clangour, -became familiar to his ear, and seemed delightfully musical, particularly -at night, when he lay awake in his lofty bedchamber, and heard their -loud symphonies from a distance. In a range of turrets within the -palace, before which this martial music was daily heard, was situated -the harem, or seraglio, as it was termed by Europeans in those days. -This mysterious part of the palace Bernier traversed but did not see, -having been called in to prescribe for a great lady of the court, but -conducted by a eunuch blindfold, or with a cashmere shawl thrown over -his head and descending to his feet, through the various chambers and -passages. He learned, however, from the eunuchs, that the harem contained -very noble apartments, each of which was furnished with its reservoir -of running water, and opened upon gardens, with covered walks, dusky -bowers, grottoes, streams, fountains, and immense caves, into which the -ladies retired during the heat of the day. Thus the inconveniences of the -climate were never felt in this secluded paradise. The most delightful -portion of this part of the palace, according to the eunuchs, was a small -tower covered with plates of gold, and glittering on the inside with -azure, gold, mirrors, and the richest and most exquisite pictures. It -overlooked the Jumna, and thence the ladies could enjoy a fine prospect -and the coolest air. - -Though by no means liable to be dazzled by pompous exhibitions, Bernier -could not refuse his admiration to the Great Mogul’s hall of audience, -and the splendour of the peacock throne. In fact, the appearance of -this hall upon one of the principal Mohammedan festivals he considered -one of the most remarkable things which he saw during his travels. Upon -entering the spacious and lofty saloon the first object which met the -eye was the emperor himself seated upon his throne, and attired in the -most magnificent and gorgeous style of the East. His robe was composed -of white satin with small flowers, relieved by a rich border of silk and -gold; his turban, of stiff cloth of gold, was adorned with an aigrette, -the stem of which was crusted with diamonds of prodigious size and -value, in the midst of which a large oriental topaz of unparalleled -beauty blazed like a mimic sun; while a string of large pearls fell from -his neck upon his bosom, like the beads of a devotee. The throne was -supported upon six large feet of massive gold, set with rubies, emeralds, -and diamonds. But its principal ornament were two peacocks, whose -feathers were imitated by a crust of pearls and jewels. The real value -of this throne could not be exactly ascertained, but it was estimated -at four azores, or forty millions of rupees.—At the foot of the throne -stood all the numerous emirs or princes of the court, magnificently -apparelled, with a canopy of brocade with golden fringe overhead, and all -round a balustrade of massive silver, to separate them from the crowd of -ordinary mortals, who took their station without. The whole riches of the -empire seemed collected there in one heap, for the purpose of dazzling -and astonishing the crowd. The pillars of the saloon were hung round with -brocade with a gold ground, and the whole of the end near the throne was -shaded with canopies of flowered satin, attached with silken cords and -nets of gold. Upon the floor immense silken carpets, of singular fineness -and beauty, were spread for the feet of the courtiers. In short, wherever -the eye could turn, the heart and secret thoughts of the assembly not -being visible, its glances alighted upon a blaze of grandeur, above, -around, below, until the aching sight would gladly have sought repose -among the serener and more soothing beauties of external nature. - -In the several visits which Bernier made to Agra, the object which -principally attracted his attention was the celebrated taj, or tomb, of -Nourmahal, the favourite wife of Shah Jehan, which he considered far -more worthy than the pyramids to be enumerated among the wonders of the -world. Leaving the city and proceeding towards the east, through a long, -broad street, running between lofty garden-walls and fine new houses, he -entered the imperial gardens. Here numerous structures, varying in their -forms, yet all possessing their peculiar beauties, courted observation; -but the enormous dome of the mausoleum, rising like the moon “inter -minora sidera,” immediately absorbed all his attention. To the right and -left dim covered walks and parterres of flowers yielded soft glimpses of -shadow and a breeze of perfume as he moved along. At length he arrived in -front of the building. In the centre rose a vast dome, which, together -with the tall, slender minarets on both sides of it, was supported by a -range of beautiful arches, partly closed up by a wall, and partly open. -The façade of the structure consisted entirely of marble, white like -alabaster; and in the centre of the closed arches were tablets of the -same material, thickly inlaid with verses from the Koran, wrought in -black marble. The interior of the dome was bordered, like the exterior, -with white marble, thickly inlaid with jasper, cornelian, and lapis -lazuli, delicately disposed in the form of flowers and other beautiful -objects. The pavement was formed of alternate squares of black and white -marble, disposed with singular art, and producing the finest effect -imaginable upon the eye. - -In the month of December, 1663, Aurungzebe, attended by his whole -court, and an army of ten thousand foot and thirty-five thousand horse, -undertook a journey into Cashmere, in the pleasures of which, through the -favour of Danekmend Khan, Bernier was allowed to partake. Keeping as long -as possible near the banks of the Jumna, in order to enjoy by the way -the pleasures of the chase, and the salubrious waters of the river, the -army proceeded towards its place of destination by the way of Lahere. The -style of travelling adopted by the Great Mogul was perfectly unique. Two -sets of tents numerous and spacious enough to contain the whole of the -imperial retinue were provided, and of these one set was sent forward, -previous to the emperor’s setting out, to the spot marked out for the -first halting-place. Here the ground was levelled by the pioneers, -the tents pitched, and every convenience provided which the luxurious -effeminacy of oriental courtiers, and more particularly of the fretful -and capricious inmates of the harem, could require. When the emperor -arrived at his camp, a fresh body of pioneers and labourers proceeded -with the second set of tents, which they pitched and prepared in like -manner; and thus a kind of city, with all its luxuries and conveniences, -perpetually moved in advance of the prince, and became stationary -whenever and wherever he required it. - -During the journey Aurungzebe generally travelled in a species of small -turret or houdah, mounted on the back of an elephant. In fine weather -this houdah was open on all sides, that the inmate might enjoy the cool -breeze from whatever quarter of the heavens it might blow; but when -storms or showers came on, he closed his casements, and reclined upon his -couch, defended from all the inclemencies of the weather as completely -as in the apartments of his palace. Ranchenara Begum, the sister of the -emperor, and the other great ladies of the harem, travelled in the same -kind of moving palace, mounted upon camels or elephants, and presented a -spectacle which Bernier delighted to contemplate. In general the blinds -or casements of these splendid little mansions of gold, scarlet, and -azure, were closed, to preserve the charms of those within from “Phœbus’ -amorous kisses,” or the profane gaze of the vulgar; but once, as the -gorgeous cavalcade moved along, our traveller caught a glimpse of the -interior of Ranchenara’s mikdembar, and beheld the princess reclined -within, while a little female slave fanned away the dust and flies -from her face with a bunch of peacock’s feathers. A train of fifty or -sixty elephants similarly, though less splendidly, appointed, moving -along with grave, solemn pace, surrounded by so vast a retinue as that -which now accompanied the court, appeared in the eyes of our traveller -to possess something truly royal in its aspect, and with the beauteous -goddesses which the fancy placed within, seem, in spite of his affected -philosophical indifference, to have delighted him in a very extraordinary -manner. True philosophy, however, would have admired the show, while it -condemned the extravagance, and despised the pride and effeminacy which -produced it. - -In this manner the court proceeded through Lahore and the plains of the -Pundjâb towards Cashmere; but as their motions were slow, they were -overtaken in those burning hollows which condensed and reflected back -the rays of the sun like a vast burning-glass, by the heats of summer, -which are there little less intense than on the shores of the Persian -Gulf. No sooner had the sun appeared above the horizon than the heat -became insupportable. Not a cloud stained the firmament; not a breath -of air stood upon the earth. Every herb was scorched to cinders; and -throughout the wide horizon nothing appeared but an interminable plain of -dust below, and above a brazen or coppery sky, glowing like the mouth of -a furnace. The horses, languid and worn out, could scarcely drag their -limbs along; the very Hindoos themselves, who seem designed to revel in -sunshine, began to droop, and our traveller, who had braved the climate -of Egypt and the Arabian deserts, writing from the camp, on the tenth day -of their march from Lahore, exclaims, “My whole face, hands, and feet are -flayed, and my whole body is covered with small red pustules which prick -like needles. Yesterday, one of our horsemen, who happened to have no -tent, was found dead at the foot of a tree, which he had grasped in his -last agonies. I doubt whether I shall be able to hold out till night. All -my hopes rest upon a little curds which I steep in water, and on a little -sugar, with four or five lemons. The very ink is dried up at the point of -my pen, and the pen itself drops from my hand. Adieu.” - -His frame, however, was much tougher than he imagined; and he continued -to proceed with the rest, till having crossed the Chenâb, one of the five -rivers, they ascended Mount Bember, and found themselves in Cashmere, -the Tempé of Hindostan. The traditions of the Hindoos respecting the -formation of this beautiful valley greatly resemble those which prevailed -among the Greeks about that of Thessaly, both being said to have been -originally a lake enclosed by lofty mountains, which having, been rent -by the agency of earthquakes, or bored by human industry, suffered the -waters to escape. Whatever was its origin, the Indian Tempé, though -vaunted by less renowned poets, is no way inferior in fertility or beauty -to the Thessalian. Fields clothed with eternal green, and sprinkled thick -with violets, roses, narcissuses, and other delicate or fragrant flowers, -which here grow wild, meet the eye on all sides; while, to divide or -diversify them, a number of small streams of crystal purity, and several -lakes of various dimensions, glide or sparkle in the foreground of the -landscape. On all sides round arise a range of low green hills, dotted -with trees, and affording a delicious herbage to the gazelle and other -graminivorous animals; while the pinnacles of the Himalaya, pointed, -jagged, and broken into a thousand fantastic forms, rear their snowy -heads behind, and pierce beyond the clouds. From these unscaleable -heights, amid which the imagination of the Hindoo has placed his heaven, -ever bright and luminous, innumerable small rivulets descend to the -valley; and after rushing in slender cataracts over projecting rocks, -and peopling the upland with noise and foam, submit to the direction of -the husbandman, and spread themselves in artificial inundations over the -fields and gardens below. These numerous mountain-torrents, which unite -into one stream before they issue from the valley, may be regarded as -the sources of the Jylum or Hydaspes, one of the mightiest rivers of -Hindostan. - -The beauty and fertility of Cashmere are equalled by the mildness -and salubrity of the climate. Here the southern slopes of the hills -are clothed with the fruits and flowers of Hindostan; but pass the -summit, and you find upon the opposite side the productions of the -temperate zone, and the features of a European landscape. The fancy of -Bernier, escaping from the curb of his philosophy, ran riot among these -hills, which, with their cows, their goats, their gazelles, and their -innumerable bees, might, like the promised land, be said to flow with -milk and honey. - -The inhabitants of this terrestrial paradise, who were as beautiful as -their climate, possessed the reputation of being superior in genius and -industry to the rest of the Hindoos. The arts and sciences flourished -among them; and their manufactures of palanquins, bedsteads, coffers, -cabinets, spoons, and inlaid work, were renowned throughout the East. -But the fabric which tended most powerfully to diffuse their reputation -for ingenuity were their shawls, those soft and exquisite articles of -dress which, from that day to this, have enjoyed the patronage of the -fair throughout the world. In the days of Bernier these shawls were -comparatively little known in Europe; yet his account of them, though -highly accurate as far as it goes, is brief and rather unsatisfactory. - -During the three or four months which he spent in this beautiful country -he made several excursions to the surrounding mountains, where, amid -the wildest and most majestic scenery, he beheld with wonder, he tells -us, the natural succession of generation and decay. At the bottom of -many precipitous abysses, where man’s foot had never descended, he saw -hundreds of enormous trunks, hurled down by time, and heaped upon each -other in decay; while at their foot, or between their crumbling branches, -young ones were shooting up and flourishing. Some of the trees were -scorched and burnt, either blasted by the thunderbolt, or, according to -the traditions of the peasantry, set on fire in the heat of summer by -rubbing against each other, when agitated by fierce burning winds. - -The court, having visited Cashmere from motives of pleasure, were -determined to taste every species of it which the country could supply; -the wild and sublime, which must be sought with toil and difficulty, as -well as those more ordinary ones which lay strewed like flowers upon the -earth. The emperor accordingly, or at least his harem, ascended the lower -range of hills, to enjoy the prospect of abyss and precipice, impending -woods, dusky and horrible, and streams rushing forth from their dark -wombs, and leaping with thundering and impetuous fury over cliffs of -prodigious elevation. One of these small cataracts appeared to Bernier -the most perfect thing of the kind in the world; and Jehangheer, who -passed many years in Cashmere, had caused a neighbouring rock, from which -it could be contemplated to most advantage, to be levelled, in order to -behold it at his ease. Here a kind of theatre was raised by Aurungzebe, -for the accommodation of his court; and there they sat, viewing with -wondering delight this sublime work of Nature, surpassing in grandeur, -and by the emotions to which it gave birth, all the wonders of man’s -hand. In this instance the stream was beheld at a considerable distance -rolling along its weight of waters down the slope of the mountain, -through a sombre channel overhung with trees. Arriving at the edge of a -rock, the whole stream projected itself forward, and curving round, like -the neck of a war-horse, in its descent plunged into the gulf below with -deafening and incessant thunder. - -An accident which occurred during these imperial excursions threw a damp -over their merriment. In ascending the Peer Punjal, the loftiest mountain -of the southern chain, from whose summit the eye commands an extensive -prospect of Cashmere, one of the foremost elephants was seized with -terror, occasioned, according to the Hindoos, by the length and steepness -of the acclivity. This beast was one of those upon which the ladies -of the harem were mounted; and fifteen others, employed in the same -service, followed. The moment his courage failed him he began to reel -backwards; and striking against the animal which immediately succeeded, -forced him also to retreat. Thus the shock, communicated from the first -to the second, and from the second to the third, in an instant threw -back the whole fifteen; and being upon the giddy edge of a precipice, no -exertion of their drivers or of the bystanders could check their fall; -and down they rolled over the rocks into the abyss, with the ladies upon -their backs. This accident threw the whole army into consternation. A -general halt took place. The most adventurous immediately crept down the -cliffs, and were followed by the rest, to aid such as should have escaped -with life, and remove the bodies of the dead. Here, to their great -astonishment, they found that, by the mercy of Providence, only three or -four of the ladies had been killed; but the elephants, which, when they -sink under their prodigious burdens even on a smooth road, never rise -again, had all been mortally wounded by the fall, and could by no means -be lifted from the spot. Even two days afterward, however, when Bernier -again visited the place, he observed some of the poor animals moving -their trunks. - -On returning to Delhi from Cashmere, our traveller appears to have -remained quiet for some time, pursuing his researches amid the mazes -of the atomical philosophy; for he was a disciple of Democritus, and -enjoying those “noctes cœnæque deorum” which seem to have constituted one -of the principal pleasures of his friend Danekmend Khan. His influence -with this chief he exerted for the benefit of others no less than for -his own. Numerous were the individuals who owed to his interference -or recommendation their admission into the service of the khan, or -the speedy termination of their affairs at court, where Danekmend, -who possessed the especial favour of the emperor, could almost always -procure an audience, or give success to a petition. These kind offices -were uniformly repaid with abundant flattery, if not with gratitude; and -the skilful practitioners invariably discharged a portion of the debt -beforehand. Putting on a grave face—a possession of infinite value in the -East—every person who had need of his services assured him at the outset -of the affair that he was the Aristotalis, the Bocrate, and the Abousina -Ulzaman (that is, the Aristotle, the Hippocrates, and the Avicenna) of -the age. It was in vain that he disavowed all claim to such immediate -honours; they persisted in their assertions; argued down his modesty; and -eternally renewing the charge, compelled him to acquiesce, and consent to -allow all the glorious attributes of those illustrious men to be centred -in his own person. A Brahmin whom he recommended to the khan outdid -them all; for, upon his first introduction to his master, after having -compared him to the greatest kings and conquerors that ever reigned, he -concluded by gravely observing, “My lord, whenever you put your foot -in the stirrup, and ride abroad accompanied by your cavalry, the earth -trembles beneath your feet, the eight elephants which support it not -being able to endure so great an exertion!” Upon this, Bernier, who -could no longer restrain his disposition to laugh, remarked to the khan, -that since this was the case, it was advisable that he should ride as -seldom as possible on horseback, in order to prevent those earthquakes, -which might, perhaps, occasion much mischief. “You are perfectly right,” -replied Danekmend, with a smile, “and it is for that very reason that I -generally go abroad in a palanquin!” - -In the year 1666, while Bernier was still at Delhi, there happened an -eclipse of the sun, which was attended by so many curious circumstances -that, should he have lived for ages, he declares it never could have been -obliterated from his memory. A little before the obscuration commenced, -he ascended to the roof of his house, which, standing on the margin of -the Jumna, commanded a full view of the stream, and of the surrounding -plain. Both sides of the river for nearly a league were covered with -Hindoos of both sexes, standing up to the waist in the water, anxiously -awaiting for the commencement of the phenomenon, in order to plunge into -the river and bathe their bodies at the auspicious moment. The children, -both male and female, were as naked as at the moment of their birth—the -women wore a single covering of muslin—the men a slight girdle, or -cummerbund, about the waist. The rajahs, nobles, and rich merchants, -however, who, for the most part, had crossed the river with their -families, had fixed up certain screens in the water, which enabled them -to bathe unseen. Presently the dusky body of the moon began to obscure -a portion of the burning disk of the superior planet, and in a moment a -tremendous shout arose from the multitude, who then plunged several times -into the stream, muttering during the intervals an abundance of prayers, -raising their eyes and their hands towards the sun, sprinkling water in -the air, bowing the head, and practising a thousand gesticulations. These -ceremonies continued to the end of the eclipse, when, throwing pieces of -money far into the stream, putting on new garments, some leaving the old -ones, besides the gifts which in common with all others they bestowed, -for the Brahmins, others retaining them, the whole multitude dispersed. - -The Hindoos, however, were not singular in the superstitious feelings -with which they regarded eclipses of the sun. Twelve years previous -Bernier had witnessed the effects which one of these phenomena produced -in his own country, where the madness exhibited itself in the guise of -fear. Astrologers, possessing the confidence of the Fates, had predicted -that the end of the world, that unfailing bugbear of the middle age, was -now to take place, and the terrified rabble of all ranks, conscious of -guilt, or oppressed by gloomy fanaticism, immediately crept, like rats, -into their cellars, or dark closets, as if God could not have beheld them -there; or else rushed headlong to the churches, with a piety begotten by -apprehension. Others, who only anticipated some malignant and perilous -influence, swallowed drugs, which were vaunted by their inventors as -sovereign remedies against the eclipse disease! Thus it appears that the -superstition of the Hindoos was the less despicable of the two. - -During his long residence in India our traveller twice visited Bengal. -Of his first journey into that province the date is unknown, but his -second visit took place in 1667, the year in which he finally quitted the -country. He seems, on this occasion, to have approached the place by sea, -for we first find him coasting along the Sunderbund in a small native -bark, with seven rowers, in which he ascended by one of the western -branches of the Ganges to the town of Hoogly. The beauty of this immense -delta, divided into innumerable islands by the various arms of the -stream, and covered by a vegetation luxuriant even to rankness, delighted -him exceedingly. Even then, however, many of these romantic isles had -been deserted, owing principally to the dread of the pirates who infested -the coast; and as in India the spots which cultivation abandons quickly -become the abode of pestilential miasmata, which thenceforward forbid the -residence of man, no one now ventured to disturb the tigers and their -prey, which had taken possession of the soil. It was here that for the -third time in his life he enjoyed the sight of that rare phenomenon, a -lunar rainbow. He had caused his boat to be fastened to the branch of a -tree, as far as possible from the shore, through dread of the tigers, -and was himself keeping watch. The moon, then near its full, was shining -serenely in the western sky, when, turning his eyes towards the opposite -quarter, he beheld a pale, bright arch, spanning the earth, and looking -like a phantom of the glorious bow which, impregnated with the rich light -of the sun, gladdens the eye with its brilliant colours by day. Next -night the phenomenon was repeated; and on the fourth evening another -spectacle, now familiar to most readers by description, delighted our -traveller and his boat’s crew. The woods on both sides of the stream -seemed suddenly to be illuminated by a shower of fire, and glowed as -if they had been clothed with leaves of moving flames. There was not a -breath of wind stirring, and the heat was intense. This added to the -effect of the scene; for as the countless little fires streamed hither -and thither in columns, or separated, and fell like drops of rain, or -rose thick like the sparks of a furnace, the two Portuguese pilots whom -our traveller had taken on board, imagined they were so many demons. To -add to the effect of this exhibition of fireflies, for, as the reader -will have foreseen, it was they who were the actors, the swampy soil -sent up a number of those earthly meteors which often glide over large -morasses, some in the form of globes, which rose and fell slowly, like -enormous rockets, while others assumed the shape of a tree of fire. - -From Bengal our traveller proceeded along the Coromandel coast to -Masulipatam, and having visited the kingdoms of Golconda and Bejapore, -quitted Hindostan, after a residence of twelve years, and returned by way -of Persia and Mesopotamia to Europe. The exact date of his arrival in -France I have not been able to discover, but it must have been somewhere -in the latter end of the year 1669, or in the beginning of 1670; for -the first two volumes of his “History of the Revolutions of the Mogul -Empire,” which would require some time to prepare them for the press, -were published in the course of that year. The third and fourth volumes -appeared in 1671, and so great was the reputation they acquired, that -they obtained for our traveller the surname of “The Mogul.” These works, -which have frequently been reprinted under the title of “The Travels of -M. François Bernier, containing the Description of the Mogul Empire, of -Hindostan, of the Kingdom of Cashmere, &c.,” were immediately translated -into English, and appear to have been the means of introducing their -author to the most distinguished individuals of his time. Among those -most distinguished by his friendship were Ninon de l’Enclos, Madame de la -Sabliere, St. Evremont, and Chapelle, whose _Eloge_ he composed. To many -of these his speculative opinions, which were any thing but orthodox, -may have rendered him agreeable; but to Ninon, his handsome person, easy -manners, and fascinating conversation, which he knew how to enliven with -a thousand interesting anecdotes, must have proved by far his greatest -recommendation. By St. Evremont he was called “the handsome philosopher;” -and in a letter to Ninon, this same writer observes, “Speaking of the -mortification of the senses one day, to M. Bernier, he replied, ‘I -will tell you a secret which I would not willingly reveal to Madame de -la Sabliere or to Ninon, though it contains an important truth; it is -this—the abstaining from pleasure is itself a crime.’ I was surprised,” -adds St. Evremont, “by the novelty of the system.” Upon this M. Walkenaer -shrewdly observes, that this system could have possessed but very little -novelty for Mademoiselle de l’Enclos; and he might have added that the -surprise of the writer of the letter must either have been affected, or -else betrayed a very slight acquaintance with the history of philosophy. -The other works of Bernier, which have been suffered to sink into much -greater neglect than they perhaps deserve, are,—1. “An Abridgment of -the Philosophy of Gassendi:” in which, according to Buhl, the acute and -learned historian of Modern Philosophy, he not only exhibited the talents -of an able and intelligent abbreviator, but, moreover, afforded numerous -proofs of a capacity to philosophize for himself. On several important -points he differed from his friend, with whom, previous to his travels, -he had lived during many years on terms of the strictest intimacy, and -who died shortly after his departure from France. 2. “A Memoir upon the -Quietism of India,” which appeared in the “Histoire des Ouvrages des -Savans,” for September, 1668. 3. “Extract of various Pieces sent as -Presents to Madame de la Sabliere.” 4. “Eloge of Chapelle.” 5. “Decree -of the Grand Council of Parnassus for the Support of the Philosophy -of Aristotle.” 6. “Illustration of the Work of Father Valois, on the -Philosophy of Descartes,” published by Boyle. 7. “A Treatise on Free -Will.” - -The travels of Bernier, which enjoy a vast reputation among the learned, -have never, perhaps, been popular, and can never become so, unless the -various letters and treatises of which the work is composed be properly -arranged, and the whole illustrated with copious notes. As an acute -observer of manners, however, he has seldom been surpassed. His history -of the revolutions of the Mogul empire entitles him to a high rank among -the historians of India; and his description of Cashmere, though brief, -is perhaps the best which has hitherto been given of that beautiful -country. In his private character he appears to have been generous, -humane, and amiable, constant in his friendship, and capable, as may be -inferred from the singular affection entertained for him by Gassendi and -Danekmend Khan, of inspiring a lasting and powerful attachment. Still, -his inclination for the dull, unimaginative, unspiritual philosophy of -Epicurus bespeaks but little enthusiasm or poetical fervour of mind; and -this feature in his intellectual character may account for the inferior -degree of romance with which we contemplate his adventures. - - - - -SIR JOHN CHARDIN. - -Born 1643.—Died 1713. - - -Sir John Chardin was born at Paris on the 16th of November, 1643. He was -the son of a rich Protestant jeweller, who, as soon as his education, -which appears to have been carefully conducted and liberal, was -completed, intrusted him with the management of a commercial speculation -in the East, and thus at once gratified and influenced the passion for -visiting new and remote regions which had already taken possession of the -mind of our traveller. Leaving Paris at the age of twenty-two, he visited -Hindostan and Persia, where he remained several years, and was appointed -merchant to the king. His manly but shrewd character, united with -extensive knowledge and great suavity of manners, procured him numerous -friends at the court of Ispahan, some of whom filled important offices -in the government, and were thus enabled to lay open to him the interior -movements of the great political machine which he afterward described -with so much vigour and perspicuity. He accompanied the shah on his -visits to various portions of his dominions, and in this way was enabled -to traverse with pleasure and advantage the wilder and least accessible -districts of Persia, such as Mazenderan, Ghilan, and the other provinces -bordering on the Caspian Sea. Of this portion of his life, however, -he did not judge it necessary to give any detailed account; perhaps -because he had afterward occasion to visit the same scenes, when his mind -was riper, his views more enlarged, and his powers of observation and -description sharpened and invigorated by experience and habit. - -Returning to France in 1670, he remained fifteen months in the bosom of -his family, and employed this period of tranquillity and leisure in the -composition of his “History of the Coronation of Solyman III., King of -Persia;” a small work usually appended to his account of his travels. The -desire of fame and distinction, however, which in youthful and ardent -minds is generally the ruling passion, urged him once more to quit his -native country, where, as he himself observes, the religion in which he -was educated excluded him from all hope of advancement or honours, in -order to revisit those regions of the East where his faith would be no -bar to his ambition, and where commerce was not thought to degrade even -the majesty of kings. - -Having collected together the jewels, gems, and curious clocks and -watches which he had been commissioned to purchase for the King of -Persia, he repaired to Leghorn, where he embarked with his mercantile -companion for Smyrna. Owing to the unskilfulness of the mariners, the -variableness of the winds, and the badness of the weather, this short -voyage was not performed in less than three months, during which the -passengers endured all the privation and misery which such a voyage could -inflict. From Smyrna he proceeded to Constantinople, where, through the -aid of M. de Nointel, the ambassador of France, he was initiated in all -the mysteries of diplomacy, which he unveils in his travels with infinite -skill and _naïveté_ for the amusement of his readers. - -In other respects his connexion with the French ambassador was rather -prejudicial than useful to him; for M. de Nointel having conducted -himself in all his negotiations with the Turks in a puerile and -fluctuating manner, passing by turns from extreme haughtiness to extreme -cringing and servility, the anger of the Porte was roused, and directed -against the whole French nation; and Chardin, when he became desirous -of departing, was denied a passport. From this difficult and somewhat -dangerous position he was delivered by the ingenuity of a Greek, who -contrived to procure him a passage to Azoph, on the Palus Mæotis, on -board of a Turkish vessel then about to set sail with the new commandant -and fresh troops which the Porte sent every year to that remote fortress. -The Black Sea, which receives its appellation from the gloomy clouds -and tempestuous winds which hover over and vex its waters in almost -every season of the year, was now to be traversed; and considering the -unskilfulness and apathy of Turkish sailors, who creep timidly along -the shore, and have little knowledge of the use of the compass, our -traveller was not without his apprehensions. After a voyage of eight -days, however, they arrived at Caffa, in the Crimea, where, by the help -of the Greek friend who had enabled him to laugh at the sultan’s beard -and embark without a passport, he eluded the exorbitant demands of the -custom-house, and transported his merchandise on board another vessel -bound for Mingrelia. - -Setting sail from Caffa, where there was little to be seen but stinking -Tartars and caviare, they arrived in twenty-four hours at Touzlah, or -the Salt Marshes, a vast sweep of low shore, alternately covered by the -waters of the sea, artificially introduced, and a white saline crust, -looking like a sheet of snow from a distance. Here upwards of two hundred -ships are annually freighted with salt; and it was for the purpose of -taking on board a cargo of this useful merchandise that the vessel in -which Chardin and his companion were embarked now touched at the place. -On landing, the village was found to consist of about ten or twelve -houses, with a small mosque, and a considerable number of felt-covered -tents, which served for stables, kitchens, and dormitories for the -slaves. Salt was by no means the only article of commerce obtained at -this place. Every morning fires were observed lighted along the shore, as -signals that the brigands of the country had laid violent hands upon a -number of their fellow-creatures, and had them conveyed thither, chained -together like cattle, for sale. These fires being observed, boats were -immediately sent on shore; and when they returned, crowds of women and -children, half-naked, or covered with rags and filth, but resplendent -with beauty, were hoisted on board, where their wretched apparel was -exchanged for clean neat garments, and where, perhaps, for the first time -in their lives they tasted bread. The men and boys were chained two and -two every night; the women, from whom no danger was apprehended, were -permitted the free use of their limbs. These Circassians did not fetch -a great price. A Greek merchant, whose cabin was contiguous to that of -Chardin, purchased for twelve crowns a woman of extraordinary beauty, -with an infant at the breast. What chiefly surprised our traveller in the -circumstances of this affair was, the coolness and serenity with which -these honest people submitted to their fate. Had not the women, much -against their will, been compelled to occupy themselves with needlework, -and the men with such little matters as they could perform on board, they -would have been perfectly happy. Idleness was their _summum bonum_; and -this the most beautiful among the women knew they were about to enjoy in -the harems of Turkey. - -On arriving at Isgaour, in Mingrelia, the place where the general -market of the country is held, Chardin naturally expected to find human -dwellings, with provisions, and such other necessaries as in civilized -countries are everywhere attainable for money. In this hope he went -on shore, accompanied by the Greek merchant, who had hitherto been in -a manner his guardian angel; but on entering the place, they indeed -found two long rows of huts formed of the branches of trees, where -merchandise and provisions had once been exposed for sale, but now empty -and deserted. In the vicinity of the place neither house nor habitation -appeared as far as the eye could reach. Two or three peasants, however, -who flitted about like spectres among the deserted huts, engaged to bring -on the morrow a quantity of that species of grain called _gom_, which is -bruised, boiled, and eaten instead of bread, together with wine and other -provisions. There being no alternative, they were compelled to rely on -the promises of these men, as they were nearly in want of every necessary -of life; but their presents failing them, it became necessary to -dissemble with his servants, who already began to murmur aloud and curse -the persons by whose advice he had taken the route of the Black Sea, -relying for the future upon the bounty of Providence. The reason why the -market of Isgaour was thus deserted was, that the Abcas, a neighbouring -people of savage character and barbarous manners, having made an -irruption into the country, were now ravaging it with fire and sword, -while the peasantry and their lords were flying before them in dismay, or -plunging for refuge into the deepest recesses of their forests. Ten days -after their arrival these savages passed along the shore in search of -plunder; and finding none in this celebrated market, set the huts on fire -and reduced them to ashes. - -In this dilemma, Chardin had much difficulty in determining what course -to take. He had immediately on landing applied for aid to the Catholic -missionaries of Colchis, the chief of whom promised in reply to be with -him by a certain day, but failed in his engagement; and when after a -second application he repaired to the place of rendezvous, it was less -with the design of forwarding our traveller’s views than of dissuading -him from attempting the journey at all. Perceiving, however, that his -advice could not be followed, he rendered the travellers every service -in his power with alacrity, but without in the least concealing the -magnitude of the danger they were about to incur. - -It was now the beginning of October, and Chardin, irritated at the -numerous obstacles and hinderances which had impeded his progress, was -so extremely impatient to be in Persia that no dangers appeared to him -so terrible as delay. He had very soon cause to repent his impetuosity. -The evils he had hitherto endured dwindled to nothing when compared -with those which now rushed upon him like a torrent, and threatened to -swallow up in a moment his wealth, his ambitious projects, and his life. -Nevertheless, with that unshrinking courage which his total ignorance -of the future and the pressure of present evils bestows upon man, he -hastened to put his foot upon the shores of Mingrelia; and embarking with -all his merchandise on board the felucca in which the monk had arrived, -set sail for Anarghia, where they next day arrived. Here his followers -made themselves ample amends for the scarcity they had endured at -Isgaour; for poultry, wild pigeons, pork, goats’ flesh, wine, and other -provisions were abundant and cheap. - -After remaining nine days at Anarghia, they departed on the 14th, two -hours before day, and having sailed about six miles up the river, -disembarked their merchandise and provisions, with which they loaded -eight small vehicles, and proceeded on their journey by land. The report -that a party of Europeans were passing with incalculable riches through -the country was soon spread; and as few rich travellers ever traversed -Mingrelia, this rumour immediately inflamed to the highest degree the -cupidity of the hungry prince and his feudatories, who forthwith formed -the design of appropriating these treasures to themselves. They arrived, -however, on the evening of the same day at Sipias, the residence of -the missionaries, where they proposed to remain a few days in order to -prepare themselves by a little repose for the fatigues which were to -come, as well as to deliberate with the monks respecting the means of -escaping from the rapacity of the rulers of Mingrelia. - -Four days after his arrival, the princess, or queen, as she termed -herself, of Mingrelia, came to Sipias to visit our traveller, attracted -by the rumours of his wealth, as vultures are attracted by the scent -of a carcass. Her majesty was followed by a train of eight women and -ten men, to all of whom a decent suit of clothes and a tolerable beast -to ride on would have been a welcome present, for they were very badly -mounted and meanly clad. In order to ward off, as far as possible, the -dangerous reputation of being rich, which is elsewhere so much coveted, -our travellers endeavoured to pass for Capuchin friars, and pretended -that the baggage with which their vehicles were loaded consisted -entirely of books. The princess believed neither of these stories. Being -informed that Chardin understood Turkish and Persian, she tormented -him, by means of a slave who could speak the former language, with a -thousand questions, of which the greater number turned upon the subject -of love. After pushing these questions beyond the verge of decency, to -the great amusement of her suite, who appeared to be more delighted in -proportion as her majesty became more obscene, she suddenly turned to a -still more embarrassing topic—demanding to examine the effects of our -traveller, and the stores of the monks. They all now trembled for their -property. Whatever she should have seen would have been lost. To allay -her cupidity, therefore, and at least put off the evil day, the principal -monk humbly informed her that the usual present should be sent on the -morrow, accompanied by another from the travellers. With this assurance -she appeared to be satisfied, and departed. - -On the next day our traveller and two of the monks were invited to dine -with the princess, and were of course careful not to present themselves -before her empty-handed, it being a crime in the East for an inferior -to come into the presence of his superior without some gift, in token -of dependence and homage. Her highness of Mingrelia, who had painted -her face and adorned her person to the best of her ability, in order to -appear to advantage in the eyes of the traveller, seemed to be highly -gratified with his present, which, though tasteful and elegant, was of -small value, the better to maintain a show of poverty. Some ten or twelve -ragged but merry-looking wenches, and a crowd of half-naked ragamuffins, -constituted the court of this princess, her maids of honour having, as -she assured the traveller, taken refuge in a neighbouring fortress on -account of the war! The better to enjoy the pleasure of tormenting M. -Chardin, she caused him to sit near her, and commenced her attack by -observing, that it was her will and pleasure that he should marry one of -her friends, and settle in the country, when she promised to bestow on -him houses, lands, slaves, and subjects. From all he had heard and seen -of the women of Mingrelia, our traveller would have felt less repugnance -to marrying a vampire than one of them, beautiful as they were; so -that the bare possibility of the thing made him shudder. He was for -the present delivered from the discussion of this painful topic by the -appearance of dinner, during which the princess inflamed her naturally -ardent temperament by copious libations of wine, which stifled whatever -remains of shame might have lingered in her soul, and impelled her to -exhibit all the importunity and effrontery of a courtesan. - -The menaces of this princess, who gave them clearly to understand that -she had determined upon visiting the monastery, for the purpose of -examining their treasures, caused them to return dejected and melancholy -from the castle, the monks apprehending new extortions and vexations, and -Chardin the loss of all he possessed. The remainder of the day was passed -in deliberating upon the present posture of affairs, and it was at length -resolved, that as soon as it was night, pits should be dug, and the most -valuable portion of their merchandise buried in the earth. Accordingly, -the sun had no sooner set behind the mountains, than they commenced -operations, first digging a pit five feet deep in the apartments of one -of the monks, where they buried a large chest filled with watches and -clocks set with jewels. When this had been done, and the earth smoothed -over, and made to appear as before, they repaired under cover of the -darkness to the church, where the principal monk advised our traveller -to open the grave of one of the brotherhood, who had been interred there -some six years before, and deposite among his ashes a small casket filled -with the most costly gems of the East, designed for the princesses and -great ladies of Persia. A secret presentiment prevented Chardin from -following this advice, who selected in preference an obscure corner of -the church, where accordingly a pit was sunk, and the casket carefully -interred. Other costly articles, as a sabre and poniard set with jewels, -were concealed in the roof of the monastery; and such articles of great -value as were small and portable our travellers retained about their -persons. - -Many days had not elapsed before they were convinced that their fears -were not without foundation. It was now Sunday, and Chardin, in offering -up his prayers to God, according to custom, would not presume, he says, -to petition his Maker for freedom, so persuaded was he that slavery was -to be his fate; he merely prayed for a mild master, and to be delivered -from a Mingrelian wife. While the classical idea of Medea was haunting -his imagination, and disturbing his devotion, a person came running -in, exclaiming that two neighbouring chiefs, with a band of followers, -armed to the teeth, were knocking at the outer gate, and demanding -admittance. There being no alternative, they were allowed to enter, -which they had no sooner done than they seized and bound the travellers, -commanded the monks to retire, and threatened to put to death the first -person who should make the least stir or resistance. The principal friar -was terrified and fled; but the rest stood firmly by their guests, -particularly the lay-brother, whom not even a naked sword pointed at his -throat could induce to abandon them. When the bandits proceeded to bind -their servants, one of the latter, who had a large knife in his hand, -endeavouring to defend himself, was instantaneously struck to the earth -with a lance, bound hand and foot, and fastened to a tree. This being -done, the ruffians informed the travellers that they wished to examine -their effects. Chardin replied that it was within their power; that they -were but poor monks, whose whole wealth consisted in books, papers, and -a few wretched garments, the whole of which, if they would abstain from -violence, should be shown them. Upon this he was unbound, and commanded -to open the door of their apartment, where their books, papers, and -wardrobe were kept. Chardin’s companion had sewn the most valuable of his -jewels in the collar of his coat; but our traveller himself had made two -small packets of his, which were sealed, and put among his books, not -daring to carry them about him lest he should be assassinated, stripped, -or sold for a slave. In order to gain a moment to withdraw these packets, -he requested his companion and the lay-brother to hold the chiefs in -conversation, by pretending to negotiate with them, and offering them a -small sum of money. The stratagem succeeding for an instant, he darted -upstairs, their apartment being on the first floor, entered the chamber, -and locked the door. His design was suspected, and the whole band of -ruffians rushed up after him; but the door being somewhat difficult to -be broken open, he had time to take out his packets and conceal them -in the roof of the house. His companion, however, who was in the room -below, called out to him that he ought to be on his guard, for that he -was observed through the cracks in the floor. Upon hearing this, and -seeing that the door was giving way, he became confused, and scarcely -knowing what he did, took down the jewels out of the roof, thrust them -into his pocket, and opening the window of the apartment, jumped out into -the garden. Without noticing whether he was watched or not, he threw the -packets into a thicket, and then hastened back to the room, now filled -with robbers, some of whom were maltreating his companion, while others -were battering his coffers with their spears or lances, in order to break -them open. - -He now plucked up his courage, imagining that the greater part of his -wealth was out of their reach, and bid them take heed of what they did; -that he was the envoy of the King of Persia; and that the Prince of -Georgia would take ample vengeance for whatever violence might be offered -to his person. He then showed them his passport from the king. One of -the chiefs snatched it out of his hand, and was about to tear it in -pieces, saying that he neither feared nor regarded any man upon earth; -but the other, awed by the royal seal and letters of gold, restrained -him. They now said, that if he would open his coffers and allow them to -examine his effects, no violence should be offered him; but that if he -refused any longer, they would strike off his head from his shoulders. -He was still proceeding to contest the point, when one of the soldiers, -impatient to proceed to business, drew his sword, and aimed a blow at -his head, which would have cleft it in twain, had not the villain’s arm -been instantaneously arrested by the lay-brother. Perceiving the kind of -arguments they were disposed to employ, he unlocked his chests, which in -the twinkling of an eye were rummaged to the bottom, while every thing -which appeared to possess any value was taken away. Turning his eyes -from this painful scene towards the garden, he perceived two soldiers -searching among the bushes in the very spot where he had thrown his -jewels; and rushing towards them, followed by one of the monks, they -retired. He then, without reflecting upon the extreme imprudence of his -conduct, began himself to search about for the packets, but not being -able to discover them, he supposed the soldiers had found and carried -them off. As their value was little less than ten thousand pounds, the -loss fell upon him like a thunderbolt. Nevertheless, there was no time -for sorrowing. His companion and the lay-brother were loudly calling -him from the house. He therefore tore himself away from the spot. In -returning towards the house, two soldiers fell upon him, dragged him up -into a corner, and after clearing his pockets of all they contained, -were about to bind him and hurry him off; but after much resistance and -expostulation, they released him, and shortly afterward the whole troop -retired from the monastery. - -The robber chiefs and their followers had no sooner departed, than -Chardin again repaired to the garden, and was sorrowfully prying about -the thickets where he had concealed his jewels, when a man cast his arms -about his neck, and threw him into more violent terror than ever. He -had no doubt it was a Mingrelian, who was about to cut his throat. The -next moment, however, he recognised the voice of his faithful Armenian -valet, who, in accents broken by sobs, and with eyes overflowing with -tears, exclaimed, “Ah, sir, we are ruined!” Chardin, strongly moved by -this proof of his affection, bade him restrain his tears. “But, sir,” -said he, “have you searched the place carefully?”—“So carefully,” replied -the traveller, “that I am convinced all further search would be so much -labour lost.” This did not satisfy the Armenian. He wished to be informed -exactly respecting the spot where the traveller had thrown the jewels; -the manner in which he had cast them into the thicket; and the way in -which he had sought for them. To oblige him, Chardin did what he desired, -but was so thoroughly persuaded that all further search was useless, -that he refused to remain upon the spot, and went away, overwhelmed with -grief and vexation. How long he remained in this state of stupefaction he -could not tell; he was roused from it, however, by the presence of the -Armenian, who, approaching him in the dark, for it was now night, once -more threw himself about his neck, and thrust the two packets of jewels -into his bosom. - -By the advice of the monks, Chardin next morning proceeded to the -prince’s castle, to relate his griefs, and demand justice; but all he -gained by this expedition was, the thorough conviction that his highness -was as arrant a thief as his subjects, and had shared the fruits of the -robbery, which was apparently undertaken by his orders. This discovery, -however, was important; it opened his eyes to the true character of -the country; and taught him that in Mingrelia, at least, the man who -put his trust in princes was a fool. In the course of two days, to -give the finishing stroke to their misfortune, they learned that the -Turks, irritated at the insolence and rapacity of its chief, had made -an irruption into the country, were laying it waste with fire and sword -on all sides, and had already approached to within a short distance of -Sipias. At midnight, two cannon-shots from the neighbouring fortress of -Ruchs announced the approach of the enemy, and the peasants, with their -wives, children, and flocks, immediately took to flight, and before dawn -the whole population was in motion. Our traveller, whose companion, -excited and irritated by the preceding untoward events, was now ill, fled -among the rest, leaving behind him his books, papers, and mathematical -instruments, which he hoped the ignorance of both Turks and Mingrelians -would protect. His buried wealth he also left where it was, and, -considering the complexion of events, regarded as much safer than what he -carried with him. - -The sight of this whole people, suddenly thrown into rapid flight, was -sufficiently melancholy. The women bore along their children in their -arms, the men carried the baggage. Some drove along their cattle before -them, while others yoked themselves like oxen to the carts in which -their furniture was loaded, and being unable long to continue their -extraordinary exertions, sunk down exhausted and dying on the road. -Here and there, along the wayside, groups of old people, or very young -children, implored the aid of those whose strength had not yet failed, -with the most heart-rending cries and groans. At another moment the -spectacle would have caused the most painful emotions, but it was now -beheld with the utmost indifference. The idea of danger having swallowed -up every other, they hurried by these miserable deserted creatures -without pity or commiseration. - -The castle in which they now took refuge belonged to a chief who had been -a double renegade, having deserted Christianity for Mohammedanism, and -Mohammedanism for Christianity; notwithstanding which, he was supposed -to be a less atrocious brigand than his neighbours. He received the -fugitives politely, and assigned them for their lodgings an apartment -where they were somewhat less exposed to the weather than in the woods, -though the rain found its way in on all sides. The castle, however, was -already crowded with people, eight hundred persons, of whom the majority -were women and children, having taken refuge in it, and others still more -destitute and miserable arriving every moment. - -Next day one of the missionaries returned to the monastery, for the -purpose of bringing away, if possible, such plate and provisions as -had been left behind: but he found that place in possession of the -Turks, who beat him severely, and carried away whatever was portable -in the house. The night following, a Mingrelian chief, more barbarous -and destructive than the Turks, sacked the monastery a third time, and -having no torches or flambeaux to light him in his depredations, made a -bonfire of our traveller’s books and papers, and reduced the whole to -ashes. The chief in whose castle they had taken refuge, being summoned -to surrender by the Turkish pasha, and perceiving the absurdity of -pretending to measure his strength with that of the enemy, consented -to take the oath of allegiance to the Porte, and, what was equally -important, to make a handsome present to its agent. This present was -to consist of three hundred crowns in money, and twenty young slaves, -which the wretch determined to levy from the unfortunate creatures who -had thrown themselves upon his protection, confiding in the sacred laws -of hospitality. Among Mingrelians, however, there is nothing sacred. -Every family possessing four children was compelled to give up one of -the number to be transported into Turkey as a slave; but it was found -necessary to tear away the children from the arms of their mothers, who -grasped them convulsively, pressed them to their bosoms, and yielded only -to irresistible violence. Instead of twenty children, the chief forced -away twenty-five, selling the additional number for his own profit; and -instead of three hundred crowns, he extorted five hundred. Providence, -however, compelled him and his family to devour their share of grief. The -pasha peremptorily demanded one of his sons as a hostage, and as he and -his wives beheld the youngest of their boys depart into endless captivity -for the hostage, delivered up to the Porte never to return, they had an -opportunity of tasting a sample of the bitterness they had administered -to others. Chardin, who had neither wife nor children to lose, was taxed -at twenty crowns. - -Perceiving that the state of the country verged more and more every day -upon utter anarchy and confusion, our traveller came to the resolution -of departing at all hazards for Georgia, to demand its prince’s aid in -withdrawing his property from Mingrelia. His companion remained to watch -over it in his absence. Not being able to procure either guards or guides -from among the natives, for with all their misery there is no people -who fear death or danger more than the Mingrelians, he was constrained -to set out with a single domestic, who, as fate would have it, was the -most consummate scoundrel in his service. On the way to Anarghia, where -he was once more to embark on the Black Sea, he learned that the church -in which he had deposited his wealth had been sacked and stripped to the -bare walls, that the very graves had been opened, and every vestige of -property removed. Here was a new source of anguish. It was now a question -whether he was a rich or a poor man. He paused in his journey—sent off -an express to his companion—the ruins of the church were visited—and -their money found to be untouched. This circumstance, he informs us, -marvellously exalted his courage, and he proceeded with fresh vigour on -his new enterprise. - -Embarking in a felucca at Anarghia, in company with several Turks and -their slaves, he sailed along the south-eastern coast of the Black Sea, -passed by the mouth of the Phasis, the site of Sebaste, and many other -spots redolent of classical fame, and in three days arrived at Gonia -in the country of the Lazii. Here the character of his valet began to -develop itself. Repairing as soon as they had landed to the custom-house, -leaving his master to manage for himself, the vagabond imparted to -the authorities his conjectures respecting the real condition of the -traveller, and thus at once awakened their vigilance and cupidity. His -effects were in consequence rigorously examined, and the dues exacted -from him, which were heavy, perhaps extortionate, no doubt enabled the -custom-house officers to reward the treachery of his servant. When -these matters had been settled, the principal officer, who, after all, -was a man of humane disposition and tolerably just principles, made -Chardin an offer of an apartment in his house, where he invited, nay, -even entreated him to pass the night; but having already suffered from -what he regarded as his rapacity, the traveller dreaded some new act of -extortion, and obstinately refused his hospitality. He very soon repented -this false step. It being nearly night, he proceeded, on quitting the -custom-house, to the inn, or rather hovel, whither his valet had directed -his effects to be conveyed after examination. Here he was sitting down, -fatigued and dejected, disgusted with dirt and stench, and listening to -the condolences of his Turkish travelling companions, when a janizary -from the lieutenant of the commandant, the chief being absent, entered -in search of his valet, with whom that important personage was desirous -of holding a conference. In another hour the presence of the traveller -himself was required; and when, in obedience to authority, he repaired -to the fort, he found both the lieutenant and his own graceless servant -drunk, and began to perceive that a plan for pillaging him had been -concerted. The lieutenant now informed him, with as much gravity as -the prodigious quantity of wine he had taken would permit, that all -ecclesiastics who passed through Gonia were accustomed to pay two -hundred ducats to his superior; and that he, therefore, as a member of -that profession, for Chardin had thought proper to pass for a Capuchin, -must deposite that sum in his hands for the commandant. It was in vain -that the traveller now denied all claim to the clerical character, and -acknowledged himself to be a merchant; merchant or priest, it was all the -same to the lieutenant; what he wanted was the two hundred ducats, which, -after much altercation, were reduced to one hundred; but this M. Chardin -was compelled to pay, or submit to the punishment of the _carcan_, a -species of portable stocks, through which the offender’s head is put -instead of his feet. The worst feature, however, of the whole affair was, -that the drunken officer took it into his head to cause the present thus -extorted to appear to be a voluntary gift; and again having recourse to -menaces, which he was prepared to execute upon the spot, he forced the -traveller to make oath on the Gospel that he bestowed the money freely, -and would disclose the real nature of the transaction to no one. This -being done, he was allowed to retire. - -Next morning the custom-house officer, who, in inviting him to pass the -night in his house, had intended to protect him from this species of -robbery, furnished him with a guide, and two men to carry his luggage; -and with this escort, in addition to his hopeful valet, he departed for -Akalziké. The road at first lay through a plain, but at length began -to ascend, and pierce the defiles of the Caucasus; and as he climbed -higher and higher among the precipitous and dizzy heights of this sublime -mountain, among whose many peaks the ark is supposed to have first taken -ground after the deluge, and from whence the stream of population flowed -forth and overspread the world with a flood of life, he felt the cares, -solicitudes, and sorrows which for many months had fed, as it were, upon -his heart, take wing, and a healing and invigorating influence spread an -exquisite calm over his sensations. This singular tranquillity, which he -experienced on first reaching these lofty regions, still continued as he -advanced, notwithstanding the rain, the hail, and the snow which were -poured on him by the tempest as he passed; and in such a frame of mind he -attained the opposite side of the mountain, upon whose folding slopes he -beheld numerous villages, castles, and churches, picturesquely scattered -about, and at length descended into a broad and beautiful valley, -cultivated with the greatest care, and fertilized by the waters of the -Kur. - -Arriving without accident or adventure at Akalziké, and remaining there -four days to repose himself, he departed for Georgia. The route now -presented nothing extraordinary. A castle or a ruin, picturesquely -perched upon the crest of a rocky eminence, a church, or a village, -or a forest—such were the objects which met the eye. He at length -reached the Capuchin convent in the vicinity of Gory, whence, after -mature consultation with the monks, who, for strangers, entered with -extraordinary earnestness into his views, he set out, accompanied by a -lay-brother of the order, for Tiflis, partly with the design of demanding -aid from the Prince of Georgia, and partly to obtain the advice of the -principal missionary respecting the steps he ought to take in order -to deliver his partner and property from the avaricious hands of the -Mingrelians. The opinion of the monks was, that since the Prince of -Georgia entertained rather loose notions respecting his allegiance to -the King of Persia, whose servant Chardin was to be considered, and, -like all petty potentates, was possessed by extreme cupidity and laxity -of principle, there would in all probability be as much danger in being -aided by him, as in depending on the uncertain will of fortune and -his own prudence and ingenuity; that he ought to return secretly to -Mingrelia; and that, for the greater chance of success, he should take -with him one of the brotherhood, who was deeply versed in the small -politics of those countries; and a native dependent on the monastery, who -had been a thousand times in Mingrelia. - -With these able coadjutors he returned once more into the country of -Media, whence, after incredible difficulties and very considerable -danger, he succeeded in rescuing his property. On his return to Tiflis -he calculated, with the aid of his companion, the losses they had -sustained during the journey from Constantinople to Georgia, and found -that, by great good fortune, it did not exceed _one per cent._ upon the -merchandise they had succeeded in conveying safe and entire to that city. -He now tasted of that delight which springs up in the mind after dangers -escaped and difficulties overcome; and commenced the pleasing task of -studying the manners of a people among whom, however impure and depraved -might be their morals, a stranger had little to fear. The beauty of the -women, he found, was so irresistible in Georgia, and their manners so -graceful and bewitching, that it was impossible to behold them without -love; but the depravity of their morals, and the blackness and perfidy of -their souls, exceeded, if possible, the perfection of their forms, and -rendered them as odious to the mind as they were pleasing to the eye. - -After remaining a short time at Tiflis, and going through the usual -routine of giving and receiving presents, &c., he departed for Armenia. -Being now accompanied by a mehmandar, or guest-guard, he proceeded -without obstacle or extortion; this officer taking upon himself the care -of adjusting matters with the custom-houses, and of providing horses, -carriage, and provisions on the way. Though in so low a latitude, the -whole face of the country was still covered with snow in March, and it -was with much difficulty that they proceeded over the narrow pathways -made by the few travellers who were compelled to traverse the country -at such a season. To guard against the reflection of the sun’s rays -from the snow, which weakened the sight, and caused a burning heat in -the face, our traveller wore a handkerchief of green or black silk tied -across the eyes, after the manner of the inhabitants, though this merely -diminished, but could not altogether prevent the evil. Whenever they met -any travellers moving in a contrary direction, they had to dispute who -should yield up the narrow path, upon which two horses could not pass -each other, and go out into the soft snow, in which the animals instantly -sunk up to their bellies; but in the end every one yielded the preference -to the mehmandar. Creeping along in this manner through the cold, they -arrived at Eryvan on the 7th of March. - -Being now in a country where civilization had made some progress, -Chardin took lodgings in a caravansary, and was provided abundantly with -the necessaries of life by the bounty of the governor, who, no doubt, -expected that his civilities would be remembered when he should come -in the sequel to bargain for a portion of the traveller’s jewels. In -the East it is an established rule that the natives shall always take -advantage of a stranger, sometimes by force, at other times by cunning, -but invariably in some way or another. In Mingrelia our traveller had -to guard against force and violence; here against wheedling, deceit, -flattery, double-dealing, hypocrisy, and meanness. In the former case, -however, being weak, it was necessary to evade or succumb; but in the -present, since ingenuity was the weapon on both sides, there were more -chances of success, though it often appeared that plain honest good sense -is not always a match for practised cunning. In the intervals of business -the time was passed in parties, dinners, and visits, which at least -furnished opportunities of studying the manners of the people. - -Perceiving that the time of his departure was drawing nigh, the governor -came to the point at which he had been steadily aiming all the while, -under cover of his hospitality and caresses, which were put forward as so -many stalking-horses, to enable him to bring down his game with greater -certainty. Sending for Chardin to the palace, he proceeded warily and -stealthily to business, occasionally shaking the dust of compliments and -flattery in the traveller’s eyes as he went along. He first lamented -the actual state of Persia, in which, reduced by bad government and the -malignant inclemency of the seasons to a state bordering upon famine -and anarchy, there was of course little or no demand for expensive -articles of luxury; besides, even if public affairs had been flourishing, -and the royal resources abundant, the present king had no taste for -jewelry; and that, therefore, there was no hope of disposing of costly -precious stones at the court of Ispahan. From this preliminary discourse, -which was meant to diminish in the traveller’s eyes the value of his -merchandise, though in reality the picture was correct, the governor -passed at once to the genuine object of his oration, and made an offer -to purchase a part of the jewels. His conduct on this occasion was a -masterpiece of mercantile skill, and he succeeded, by holding out the -hope of more important purchases in the sequel, in getting every thing -he really intended to buy at a very cheap rate. When his object was -gained, he closed the negotiation in the coolest manner in the world, by -returning the large quantity of jewels which he had caused to be sent -to his palace, as if he had intended to bargain for them all; and the -traveller now perceived that the wily Persian had made a dupe of him. As -all manifestations of discontent, however, would have been altogether -useless, he affected to be extremely well pleased at his bad luck, and -retired to his caravansary, cursing all the way the talents and aptitude -of the governor of Eryvan for business and cheating. - -On the 8th of April he departed from the capital of Armenia, and -travelling for several days through level and fertile plains, -interspersed with churches and villages, arrived at Nacchivan, a city -formerly celebrated, and of great antiquity, but now in ruins. From hence -he proceeded, etymologizing and making researches as he moved along, -towards Tabriz, where he arrived on the 17th. At this city, then the -second in Persia in rank, riches, and population, he took up his quarters -at the Capuchin convent, where he was visited by several of the nobles of -the place, on account of his jewelry, the fame of which flew before him -on the road, and like a pioneer smoothed and laid level his passage into -Persia. In proceeding southward from Tabriz he had to traverse the plains -of Aderbijān, the ancient Media, which being covered at this season of -the year by tribes of Koords, Saraneshins, and Turcomans, all striking -their tents, and putting themselves in motion for their summer emigration -to the mountains, could not be crossed by a stranger without considerable -danger. He was therefore counselled to defer his departure for a few -days, when he would have the advantage of travelling in the company of -a Persian nobleman, whose presence would be a sufficient protection. He -adopted this advice, and in less than a week set out under the safeguard -of his noble escort, and crossed those rich and beautiful plains, which -afford the best pasturage in the world, and where, accordingly, the -ancient kings of Media kept their prodigious studs, which sometimes -consisted of fifty thousand horses. The ancients relate, that the -horses of Nysa, which must be sought for in these plains, were all -cream-coloured; but the nobleman who accompanied Chardin had never read -or heard of any part of Persia where horses of that colour were produced. - -In his journey through Media he saw on the side of the road circles of -huge stones, like those of Stonehenge, and the Dolmens of Normandy and -Brittany, which, according to the traditions of the Persians, were placed -there by the Kaous, or giants, who formerly held possession of those -regions. The same superstitions, the same fables, the same wild belief in -the enormous strength and stature of past generations, prevail, we see, -throughout the world, because the desires, faculties, and passions of the -mind are everywhere the same. - -It was now June, and instead of disputing with those they met on the road -the possession of a narrow snow-track, they were compelled to travel -by night to avoid the scorching heat of the sun. They usually set out -about two hours before sunset, and when day had entirely disappeared, -the stars, which in the clear blue atmosphere of Persia yield a strong -brilliant light, agreeably supplied its place, and enabled them to -proceed from caravansary to caravansary with facility. At every step -historical associations crowded upon the traveller’s mind. The dust which -was thrown up into a cloud by the hoof of his camel, and the stones -over which he stumbled in the darkness, were the dust and the wrecks of -heroes and mighty cities, crumbled by time, and whirled about by the -breath of oblivion. Cyrus and Alexander, khalifs, khans, and sultans, had -fought, conquered, or perished on those plains. Vast cities had risen, -flourished, and vanished like a dream. A few days before his arrival at -Kom he passed at a little distance the ruins of Rhe, a city scarcely less -vast in its dimensions, or less magnificent or populous than Babylon, but -now deserted, and become so unhealthy in consequence, that, according to -a Persian poet, the very angel of death retired from it on account of the -badness of the air. - -On his arrival at Koms, after escaping from the storms of the Black Sea -and the Mingrelians, Chardin was nearly killed by the kick of a horse. He -escaped, however, and set out two days afterward for Kashan, traversing -fine fertile plains, covered with villages. In this city, celebrated for -its burning climate and scorpions, he merely remained one day to allow -his horses a little repose, and then departed and pushed on to Ispahan, -where he arrived on the 23d of June. - -Chardin was faithful to the Capuchin friars; for whenever he passed -through or visited a city in which they possessed a convent, it was the -first place to which he repaired, and the last he quitted. On the present -occasion he took up his residence, as usual, with these monks, at whose -convent he found on his arrival a bag of letters addressed to him from -various parts of the world: before he could read the half of which, many -of his Persian and Armenian friends, whom he had known during his former -residence, and all the Europeans of the city, came to welcome him on -his return to Ispahan. From these he learned that the court, which had -undergone innumerable changes during his absence, the greater number of -those great men who had distinguished themselves, or held any offices -of trust under the late king, being either dead or in disgrace, was now -in the utmost confusion, the persons who exercised most influence in it -being a set of young noblemen without virtue, talents, or experience. And -what was still worse for Chardin, though not for Persia, it was secretly -whispered about that Sheïkh Ali Khan, formerly prime minister, but now in -disgrace, was about to be restored to favour; in which case our traveller -anticipated great losses, as this virtuous and inflexible man, whose -great talents had always been employed in the service of his country, was -an enemy to all lavish expenditure, and regarded jewels and other costly -toys as mere dross, unworthy the attention of a sovereign prince. - -Chardin perceived, therefore, that he had not a moment to lose, it -being of the highest importance that his business with the king should -be transacted before Sheïkh Ali Khan should again be prime vizier; -but by whom he was to be introduced at court was the question. The -persons to whom he applied in the first instance, at the same time that -they willingly consented to use their best efforts in his favour, and -counselled him not to despair, yet gave so sombre a picture of the state -of the court, and threw out so many insinuations, indicating their belief -that the future would be still more unpropitious than the present, that -they succeeded in casting a damp over his energies, and in dissipating or -at least blighting his hopes. Nevertheless, something was to be done, and -that quickly; and he determined, that whatever might be the result, he -would at all events not fail through inattention or indolence. - -While Chardin was labouring to put those springs in motion, the -harmonious action of which was to produce the fulfilment of his hopes, -Sheïkh Ali Khan suddenly entered into office. This event was brought -about in a strange manner. The king, during one of those violent fits of -intoxication to which he was liable, and during which he acted more like -a wild beast than a man, had commanded the right hand of a musician who -was playing before him to be struck off, and immediately fell asleep. -The person to whom the barbarous order was given, imagining that all -recollection of the matter would pass away with the fumes of sleep, -ventured to disobey; but the king awaking, and finding the musician, -whom he expected to find mutilated and bleeding, still touching the -instrument, became so enraged, that he gave orders for inflicting the -same punishment upon the disobedient favourite and the musician; and -finding that those around him still hesitated to execute his brutal -commands, his madness rose to so ungovernable a pitch that he would -probably have had the arms and legs of all the court cut off, had not -Sheïkh Ali Khan, who fortunately happened to be present, thrown himself -at his feet, and implored him to pardon the offenders. The tyrant, now -beginning to cool a little, replied, “You are a bold man, to expect that -I shall grant your request, while you constantly refuse to resume, at my -most earnest entreaties, the office of prime minister!”—“Sire,” replied -Ali, “I am your slave, and will do whatever your majesty shall command.” -The king was pacified, the culprits pardoned, and next morning Sheïkh Ali -Khan reassumed the government of Persia. - -The event dreaded by our traveller had now arrived, and therefore the -aspect of affairs was changed. Nevertheless, not many days after this -event, he received an intimation from one of his court friends, that is, -persons purchased over by presents, that the nazir, or chief intendant -of the king’s household, having been informed of his arrival, was -desirous of seeing him, and had warmly expressed his inclination to serve -him with the shah. Chardin, who understood from what motives courtiers -usually perform services, laid but small stress upon his promises, but -still hastened to present himself at his levee, with a list of all the -articles of jewelry he had brought with him from Europe, which the nazir -immediately ordered to be sent to him for the inspection of the king. A -few days afterward he was introduced to the terrible grand vizier, Sheïkh -Ali Khan himself, who, from the mild and polished manner in which he -received our traveller, appeared extremely different from the portraits -which the courtiers and common fame had drawn of him. - -His whole fortune being now at stake, and depending in a great measure -upon the disposition of the nazir and the conduct of the shah, Chardin -was unavoidably agitated by very painful and powerful feelings, when he -was suddenly summoned to repair to the intendant’s palace, where the -principal jewellers of the city, Mohammedan, Armenian, and Hindoo, had -been assembled to pronounce upon the real value of the various articles -he had offered to the king. He had not long entered before the nazir -ordered the whole of his jewels to be brought forth, those which his -majesty intended to purchase being set apart in a large golden bowl of -Chinese workmanship. Chardin, observing that notwithstanding the whole -had been purchased or made by order of the late king, not a fourth -part had been selected by his present majesty, felt as if he had been -stricken by a thunderbolt, and became pale and rooted, as it were, to the -spot. The nazir, though a selfish and rapacious man, was touched by his -appearance, and leaning his head towards him, observed, in a low voice, -“You are vexed that the king should have selected so small a portion -of your jewels. I protest to you that I have taken more pains than I -ought to induce him to purchase the whole, or at least the half of them; -but I have not been able to succeed, because the larger articles, such -as the sabre, the poniard, and the mirror, are not made in the fashion -which prevails in this country. But keep up your spirits; you will still -dispose of them, if it please God.” The traveller, who felt doubly vexed -that his chagrin had been perceived, made an effort to recover his -composure, but could not so completely succeed but that the shadow, as it -were, of his emotion still remained upon his countenance. - -However, pleased or displeased, it was necessary to proceed to business. -The shah’s principal jeweller now placed before him the golden bowl -containing the articles selected by his majesty, and beginning with the -smaller pieces, asked the price of them in a whisper; and then caused -them to be estimated by the other jewellers present, beginning with -the Mohammedans, and then passing on to the Armenians and Hindoos. The -merchants of Persia, when conducting any bargain before company, never -make use of any words in stating the price to each other; they make -themselves understood with their fingers, their hands meeting under a -corner of their robe, or a thick handkerchief, so that their movements -may be concealed. To close the hand of the person with whom business is -thus transacted means _a thousand_; to take one finger of the open hand, -_a hundred_; to bend the finger in the middle, _fifty_; and so on. This -mode of bargaining is in use throughout the East, and more particularly -in India, where no other is employed. - -The value of the jewels being thus estimated, the appraisers were -dismissed, and the nazir, coming to treat tête-à-tête with Chardin, -succeeded so completely in throwing a mist over his imagination, by -pretending to take a deep interest in his welfare, that he drew him into -a snare, and in the course of the negotiation, which lasted long, and was -conducted with infinite cunning on the part of the Persian, caused him to -lose a large portion of the fruits of his courage and enterprise. Other -negotiations with various individuals followed, and in the end Chardin -succeeded in disposing of the whole of his jewels. - -These transactions closed with the year 1673. In the beginning of the -following, which was passed in a devotional manner among the Protestants -of Ispahan, the traveller began to feel his locomotive propensities -revive; and an ambassador from Balkh, then in the capital, happening to -pay him a visit, so wrought upon his imagination by his description of -his wild country, and gave him so many pressing invitations to accompany -him on his return, that, had it not been for the counter-persuasion of -friends, Chardin would undoubtedly have extended his travels to Tartary. -This idea being relinquished, however, he departed for the shores of the -Persian Gulf, a journey of some kind or other being necessary to keep up -the activity of both body and mind. - -He accordingly departed from Ispahan in the beginning of February, all -the Europeans in the city accompanying him as far as Bagh Koolloo, where -they ate a farewell dinner together. He then proceeded on his journey, -and in eleven days arrived at the ruins of Persepolis, which he had -twice before visited, in order once more to compare his ideas with the -realities, and complete his description of this celebrated spot. These -magnificent ruins are situated in one of the finest plains in the world; -and as you enter this plain from the north through narrow gayas or -between conical hills of vast height and singular shape, you behold them -standing in front of a lofty ridge of mountains, which sweep round in the -form of a half-moon, flanking them on both sides with its mighty horns. -On two of these lofty eminences which protected the approaches to the -city, and which, when Persepolis was in all its glory, so long resisted -the fierce, impatient attacks of Alexander, the ruins of ancient forts -still subsisted when Chardin was there; but, after having travelled so -far, principally for the purpose of examining the ruins scattered around, -he found the hills too steep and lofty, and refused to ascend them! - -Having occupied several days in contemplating the enormous ruins of -temples and palaces existing on the plain, our traveller descended into -what is called the Subterranean Temple; that is, a labyrinth of canals -or passages, hewn out in the solid rock, turning, winding, and crossing -each other in a thousand places, and extending to an unknown distance -beneath the bases of the mountains. The entrances and the exits of these -dismal vaults are unknown; but travellers and other curious persons -find their way in through rents made by time or by earthquakes in the -rock. Lighted candles, which burned with difficulty in the heavy, humid -air, were placed at the distance of every fifty yards, as Chardin and -his companions advanced, particularly at those points where numerous -passages met, and where, should a wrong path be taken, they might have -lost themselves for ever. Here and there they observed heaps of bones -or horns of animals; the damp trickled down the sides of the rocks; the -bottom of the passages was moist and cold; respiration grew more and more -difficult every step; they became giddy; an unaccountable horror seized -upon their minds; the attendant first, and then the traveller himself, -experienced a kind of panic terror; and fearing that, should they much -longer continue to advance, they might never be able to return, they -hastened back towards the fissures through which they had entered; and -without having discovered any thing but vaults which appeared to have no -end, they emerged into daylight, like Æneas and his companion from the -mouth of hell. - -Departing from the ruins of Persepolis on the 19th of February, he -next day arrived at Shiraz, where he amused himself for three days in -contemplating the waters of the Roknebad and the bowers of Mosellay. In -proceeding from this city to Bander-Abassi, on the Persian Gulf, he had -to pass over Mount Jarron by the most difficult and dangerous road in all -Persia. At every step the travellers found themselves suspended, as it -were, over tremendous precipices, divided from the abyss by a low wall of -loose stones, which every moment seemed ready to roll of their own accord -into the depths below. The narrow road was blocked up at short intervals -by large fragments of rock, between which it was necessary to squeeze -themselves with much pains and caution. However, they passed the mountain -without accident, and on the 12th of March arrived at Bander-Abassi. - -This celebrated port, from which insufferable heat and a pestilential -atmosphere banish the whole population during summer, is at all times -excessively insalubrious, all strangers who settle there dying in the -course of a few years, and the inhabitants themselves being already old -at thirty. The few persons who remain to keep guard over the city during -summer, at the risk of their lives, are relieved every ten days; during -which they suffer sufficiently from the heat, the deluges of rain, and -the black and furious tempests which plough up the waters of the gulf, -and blow with irresistible fury along the coast. - -Though the eve of the season of death was drawing near, Chardin found -the inhabitants of Bander in a gay humour, feasting, drinking, and -elevating their sentiments and rejoicing their hearts with the heroic -songs of Firdoosi. Into these amusements our traveller entered with all -his heart—the time flew by rapidly—the advent of fever and death was -come—and the ship which he expected from Surat had not yet arrived. -Talents and experience are not always accompanied by prudence. Chardin -saw the whole population deserting the city; yet he lingered, detained -by the _auri sacra fames_, until far in the month of May, and until, in -fact, the seeds of a malignant fever had been sown in his constitution. -Those uneasy sensations which are generally the forerunners of sickness -and death, united with the representations of the physicians, at length -induced him to quit the place, his attendants being already ill; but he -had not proceeded many leagues before a giddiness in the head and general -debility of body informed him that he had remained somewhat too long at -Bander. - -Arriving on the 24th of May at Tangnedelan, a place where there was not -a single human being to be found, he became delirious, and at last fell -into a fit from which his attendants had much difficulty in recovering -him. There happened, by great good fortune, to be a French surgeon in his -suite. This surgeon, who was an able man in his profession, not only took -all possible care of our traveller during his moments of delirium, but, -what was of infinitely greater importance, had the good sense to hurry -his departure from those deserted and fatal regions, procuring from the -neighbouring villages eight men, who carried him in a litter made with -canes and branches of trees to Lâr. As soon as they had reached this -city, Chardin sent for the governor’s physician, who, understanding that -he was the shah’s merchant, came to him immediately. Our traveller was by -this time so weak that he could scarcely describe his feelings; and, as -well as the French surgeon, began to believe that his life was near its -close. The Persian Esculapius, however, who discovered the nature of the -disorder at a glance, assured him it was a mere trifle; that he needed -by no means be uneasy; and that, in fact, he would, with God’s blessing, -restore him to health that very day, nay, in a very few hours. - -This dashing mode of dealing with disorders produced an excellent effect -upon the traveller’s mind. The hakīm seemed to hold Death by the beard, -to keep him in his toils, to curb him, or let him have his way at -pleasure. Chardin’s whole frame trembled with joy. He took the physician -by the hand, squeezed it as well as his strength would permit, and -looked up in his face as he would have looked upon his guardian-angel. -The hakīm, to whom these things were no novelties, proceeded, without -question or remark, to prescribe for his patient; and having done this, -he was about to retire, when the traveller cried out, “Sir, I am consumed -with heat!”—“I know that very well,” replied the hakīm; “but you shall -be cooled presently!” and with the word both he and his apothecary -disappeared. - -About nine o’clock the young apothecary returned, bringing with him -a basketful of drugs, enough, to all appearance, to kill or cure a -regiment of patients. “For whom,” inquired Chardin, “are all those -medicines?”—“For you,” replied the young man; “these are what the hakīm -has ordered you to take this morning, and you must swallow them as -quickly as possible.” Fevers make men docile. The traveller immediately -began to do as he was commanded; but when he came to one of the large -bottles, his “gorge,” as Shakspeare phrases it, began to rise at it, and -he observed that it would be impossible to swallow that at a draught. -“Never mind,” said the young man, “you can take it at several draughts.” -Obedience followed, and the basketful of physic disappeared. “You will -presently,” observed the apothecary, “experience the most furious thirst; -and I would willingly give you ices to take, but there is neither ice nor -snow in the city except at the governor’s.” As his thirst would not allow -him to be punctilious, Chardin at once applied to the governor; and -succeeding in his enterprise, quenched his burning thirst with the most -delicious drinks in the world. - -To render him as cool as possible his bed was spread upon the floor in -an open parlour, and so frequently sprinkled with water that the room -might almost be said to be flooded; but the fever still continuing, the -bed was exchanged for a mat, upon which he was extended in his shirt, and -fanned by two men. The disorder being still unsubdued, the patient was -placed upon a chair, where cold water was poured over him in profusion, -while the French surgeon, who was constantly by his side, and could not -restrain his indignation at seeing the ordinary rules of his practice -thus set at naught, exclaimed, “They are killing you, sir! Depend upon -it, that it is by killing you the hakīm means to remove your fever!” -The traveller, however, maintained his confidence in the Persian, and -had very soon the satisfaction of being informed that the fever had -already abated, and of perceiving that, instead of killing, the hakīm had -actually cured him. In one word, the disorder departed more rapidly than -it had come on, and in a few days he was enabled to continue his journey. - -Remaining quietly at Ispahan during the space of a whole year after this -unfortunate excursion, he then departed from the capital for the court, -which still lingered at Casbin, in company with Mohammed Hussein Beg, son -of the governor of the island of Bahreint. This young man was conducting -from his father to the king a present, consisting of two wild bulls, with -long, black, sharp horns, an ostrich, and a number of rich Indian stuffs; -and being by no means a strict Mussulman, drinking wine and eating -heartily of a good dinner, whether cooked by Mohammedan or Christian, was -a very excellent travelling companion. On his arrival at Casbin, Chardin, -who was now extremely well known to all the grandees of the kingdom, was -agreeably and hospitably received by the courtiers, particularly by the -wife of the grand pontiff, who was the king’s aunt. This lady, in order -to manifest the friendship she entertained for him, though in consequence -of the peculiar manners of the country their souls only had met, made him -a present of eight chests of dried sweetmeats, scented with amber and the -richest perfumes of the East. Her husband was no less distinguished by -his friendship for our traveller, who nowhere in Persia experienced more -genuine kindness or generosity than from this noble family. - -During this visit to Casbin, Chardin had the honour, as it is vulgarly -termed, of presenting two of his countrymen to the shah; and so powerful -is the force of habit and prejudice, that this able, learned, and -virtuous man really imagined it an honour to approach and converse -familiarly with an opium-eating, cruel, and unprincipled sot, merely -because he wore a tiara and could sport with the destinies of a great -empire! The nazir, in introducing the traveller, observed, “Sire, this -is Chardin, your merchant.” To which the shah replied, with a smile, “He -is a very dear merchant.”—“Your majesty is right,” added the nazir; “he -is a politic man; he has overreached the whole court.” This the minister -uttered with a smile; and he had a right to smile, says Chardin, for he -took especial care that quite the contrary should happen. - -Chardin soon after this took his final leave of the court of Persia, and -returned by way of Ispahan to Bander-Abassi, whence he purposed sailing -by an English ship for Surat. The fear of falling into the hands of the -Dutch, then at war with France, prevented him, however, from putting -his design into execution; and relinquishing the idea of again visiting -Hindostan, he returned to Europe in 1677. Of the latter part of his life -few particulars are known. Prevented by religious considerations from -residing in his own country, where freedom of conscience was not to be -enjoyed, he selected England for his home, where, in all probability, he -became acquainted with many of the illustrious men who shed a glory over -that epoch of our history. It was in London, also, that he first met with -the lady whom he immediately afterward made his wife. Like himself, she -was a native of France and a Protestant, forced into banishment by the -apprehension of religious persecution. On the very day of his marriage -Chardin received the honour of knighthood from the hand of the gay and -profligate Charles II. - -Having now recovered from the fever of travelling, the beautiful -Rouennaise in all probability aiding in the cure, Chardin devoted his -leisure to the composition of his “Travels’ History,” of which the first -volume appeared in London in 1686. While he was employed in preparing -the remainder of his works for the press, he was appointed the king’s -minister plenipotentiary or ambassador to the States of Holland, being at -the same time intrusted with the management of the East India Company’s -affairs in that country. His public duties, however, which could not -entirely occupy his mind, by no means prevented, though they considerably -delayed, the publication of the remainder of his travels; the whole of -which appeared, both in quarto and duodecimo, in 1711. Shortly after this -he returned to England, where he died in the neighbourhood of London, -1713, in the sixty-ninth year of his age. - -The reputation of Chardin, which even before his death extended -throughout Europe and shed a lustre over his old age, is still on the -increase, and must be as durable as literature and civilization; his -merit not consisting in splendour of description or in erudite research, -though in these he is by no means deficient, but in that singular -sagacity which enabled him to penetrate into the heart and characters -of men, and to descend with almost unerring precision to the roots of -institutions and manners. No European seems to have comprehended the -Persians so completely; and no one has hitherto described them so well. -Religion, government, morals, manners, costume—every thing in which one -nation can differ from another—Chardin had studied in that bold and -original manner which characterizes the efforts of genius. His style, -though careless, and sometimes quaint, is not destitute of that _naïveté_ -and ease which result from much experience and the consciousness of -intellectual power; and if occasionally it appear heavy and cumbrous in -its march, it more frequently quickens its movements, and hurries along -with natural gracefulness and facility. Without appearing desirous of -introducing himself to the reader further than the necessities of the -case require, he allows us to take so many glimpses of his character -and opinions, that by the time we arrive at the termination of his -travels we seem to be perfectly acquainted with both; and unless all -these indications be fallacious, so much talent, probity, and elegance -of manners has seldom been possessed by any traveller. Marco Polo was -gifted with a more exalted enthusiasm, and acquired a more extensive -acquaintance with the material phenomena of nature; Pietro della Valle -amuses the reader by wilder and more romantic adventures; Bernier is -more concise and severe; Volney more rigidly philosophical; but for -good sense, acuteness of observation, suavity of manner, and scrupulous -adherence to truth, no traveller, whether ancient or modern, is superior -to Chardin. - - - - -ENGELBERT KÆMPFER. - -Born 1651.—Died 1716. - - -This distinguished traveller was born on the 16th of September, 1651, at -Lemgow, a small town in the territories of the Count de Lippe, in the -circle of Westphalia. His father, who was a clergyman, bestowed upon his -son a liberal education suitable to the medical profession, for which he -was designed. It is probable, however, that the numerous removals from -one city to another which took place in the course of his education,—his -studies, which commenced at Hameln, in the duchy of Brunswick, having -been successively pursued at Lunebourg, Hamburgh, Lubeck, Dantzick, -Thorn, Cracow, and Kœnigsberg,—communicated to his character a portion -of that restless activity and passion for vicissitude which marked his -riper years. But these changes of scene by no means impaired his ardour -for study. Indeed, the idea of one day opening himself a path to fame -as a traveller appears, on the contrary, to have imparted additional -keenness to his thirst for knowledge; his comprehensive and sagacious -mind very early discovering in how many ways a knowledge of antiquity, of -literature, and the sciences might further the project he had formed of -enlarging the boundaries of human experience. - -Having during his stay at Kœnigsberg acquired a competent knowledge of -natural history and the theory of medicine, he returned at the age of -thirty to his own country; whence, after a brief visit, he again departed -for Prussia and Sweden. Wherever he went, the number and variety of -his acquirements, the urbanity of his manners, and the romance and -enthusiasm of his character rendered him a welcome guest, and procured -him the favour of warm and powerful friends. During his residence in this -country, at the university of Upsal and at Stockholm, he became known to -Rudbeck and Puffendorf, the father of the historian; and it was through -the interest of the latter that, rejecting the many advantageous offers -which were made for the purpose of tempting him to remain in Sweden, he -obtained the office of secretary to the embassy then about to be sent -into Persia. The object of this mission was partly commercial, partly -political; and as the Czar of Russia was indirectly concerned in its -contemplated arrangements, it was judged necessary that the ambassador -should proceed to Ispahan by the way of Moscow. - -Our traveller departed from Stockholm March 20, 1683, with the presents -for the Shah of Persia, and, proceeding through Arland, Finland, -and Ingermunland, joined Louis Fabricius at Narva. On their arrival -at Moscow, where their reception was magnificent, the ambassador so -skilfully conducted his negotiations that in less than two months they -were enabled to pursue their journey. They accordingly descended the -Volga, and, embarking at Astrakan in a ship with two rudders, and two -pilots who belonged to different nations, and could not understand -each other, traversed the Caspian Sea, where they encountered a -violent tempest, and at length arrived at Nisabad. Here they found -the ambassadors of Poland and Russia, who had arrived a short time -previously, and were likewise on their way to Ispahan, and in their -company proceeded to Shamaki, the capital of Shirwan. - -In this city, which they reached about the middle of December, they -remained a whole month, awaiting the reply of the shah to the governor -of Shirwan, who immediately upon their arrival had despatched a courier -to court for directions respecting the manner in which, the several -ambassadors were to be treated and escorted to Ispahan. This delay was -fortunate for Kæmpfer, as it enabled him to visit and examine the most -remarkable objects of curiosity in the neighbourhood, more particularly -the ancient city of Baku, renowned for its eternal fire; the naphtha -springs of Okesra; the burning fountains and mephitic wells; and the -other wonders of that extraordinary spot. Upon this excursion he set out -from Shamakia on the 4th of January, 1684, accompanied by another member -of the legation, two Armenians, and an Abyssinian interpreter. Their -road, during the first part of this day’s journey, lay over a fine plain -abounding in game; having passed which, they arrived about noon at the -village of Pyru Resah. Here a storm, attended with a heavy fall of snow, -preventing their continuing their journey any farther that day, they took -possession of a kind of vaulted stable, which the inhabitants in their -simplicity denominated a caravansary; and kindling a blazing fire with -dried wormwood and other similar plants, which emitted a most pungent -smoke, contrived to thaw their limbs and keep themselves warm until the -morning. - -Next morning they continued their route, at first through a mountainous -and desert country buried in snow, and afterward through a plain of -milder temperature, but both equally uninhabited, no living creature -making its appearance, excepting a number of eagles perched upon the -summits of the heights, and here and there a flock of antelopes browsing -upon the plain. Lodging this night also in a caravansary in the desert, -and proceeding next day through similar scenes, they arrived in the -afternoon at Baku. The aspect of this city, the narrowness of the gate, -the strange ornaments of the walls, the peculiarity of the site, the -structure of the houses, the squalid countenances of the inhabitants, -and the novelty of every object which presented itself, inspired our -traveller with astonishment. It happening to be market-day, the streets -were crowded with people, who, being little accustomed to strangers, -and having never before seen a negro, crowded obstreperously around -the travellers, and followed them with hooting, shouting, and clamour -to their lodgings. An old man, who had officiously undertaken to -provide them with an apartment, conducted them through the mob of his -townsfolk, which was every moment becoming more dense, to a small mud -hut, situated in a deserted part of the city, and from its dismal and -miserable appearance, rather resembling the den of a wild beast than a -human dwelling. Having entered this new cave of Trophonius, and shut the -door behind them, the travellers, as Kæmpfer jocosely observes, began to -offer up their thanks to the tutelary god of the place, for affording -them an asylum from the insolence of the rabble. But their triumph was -premature. The mob, whose curiosity was by no means to be satisfied with -a passing glance, ascended the roof of the den in crowds, and before the -travellers could spread out their carpets and lie down, the crashing -roof, the lattices broken, and the door, which they had fastened with a -beam, violently battered, warned them that it was necessary to escape -before they should be overwhelmed by the ruins. It was now thought -advisable that they should endeavour, by exhibiting themselves and their -Ethiopian interpreter, whom the Bakuares unquestionably mistook for -some near relation of the devil’s, to conciliate their persecutors, and -purchase the privilege of sleeping in peace. They therefore removed the -beam, and issuing forth, Abyssinian and all, into the midst of the crowd, -allowed them time to gaze until they were tired. Presently after this the -governor of the city arrived; but, instead of affording his protection -to the strangers, as a man in his station should have done, he accused -them of being spies, and having overwhelmed them with menaces, which he -seems to have uttered for the purpose of enhancing his own dignity in the -estimation of the multitude, departed, leaving them to enact the spies at -their discretion. - -Being now left in undisturbed possession of their hut, and there still -remaining some hours of daylight, they prevailed upon their host, by dint -of a small bribe, to show them the citadel, situated in the loftiest -and most deserted part of the city. Returning from thence, they were -met by the beadles of the town, who conducted them, with their beasts -and baggage, to the public caravansary, though their host and guide -had denied the existence of any such building; and while this ancient -deceiver was hurried off before the magistrates, our travellers sat down -to supper and some excellent wine. Next morning Kæmpfer issued forth, -disguised as a groom, to examine the remainder of the city, while his -companions loaded their beasts, and, the keeper of the caravansary being -absent, slipped out of the city, and waited until he should join them at -a little distance upon the road. Having escaped from this inhospitable -place, they proceeded to examine the small peninsula of Okesra, a tongue -of land about three leagues in length, and half a league in breadth, -which projects itself into the Caspian to the south of Baku. This spot, -like the Phlegræan fields, appears to be but a thin crust of earth -superimposed upon an internal gulf of liquid fire, which, escaping into -upper air through a thousand fissures, scorches the earth to dust in some -places; in others, presents to the eye a portion of its surface, boiling, -eddying, noisome, dark, wrapped in infernal clouds, and murmuring like -the fabled waters of hell. Here and there sharp, lofty cones of naked -rocks, composed, like the summits of the Caucasus, of conchylaceous -petrifactions, shoot up from the level of the plain, and on the northern -part of the peninsula are sometimes divided by cultivated valleys. On the -summit of one of these eminences they perceived the ruins of a castle, -in former times the residence of a celebrated imam, who had taken refuge -in these wild scenes from the persecution of the race of Omar. - -Still proceeding towards the south they arrived, in about an hour from -these ruins, upon the margin of a burning field, the surface of which was -strewed with a pale white sand, and heaps of ashes; while, from numerous -gaping rents, rushing flames, black smoke, or bluish steam, strongly -impregnated with the scent of naphtha, burst up in a singularly striking -manner. When the superincumbent sand was removed, whether upon the edge -of the fissures, or in any other part of the field, a light rock, porous, -and worm-eaten, as it were, like pumice-stone, was discovered; which, -as well as the substratum of the whole peninsula, consisted of shelly -petrifactions. Here they found about ten persons occupied in different -labours about the fires; some being employed in attending to a number -of copper or earthen vessels, placed over the least intense of the -burning fissures, in which they were cooking dinner for the inhabitants -of a neighbouring village; while others were piling stones brought from -other places into heaps, to be burnt into lime. Apart from these sat two -Parsees, the descendants of the ancient inhabitants of Persia, beside a -small wall of dry stones which they had piled up, contemplating with holy -awe and veneration the fiercely ascending flames, which they regard as an -emblem of the eternal God. - -One of the lime-burners now came up to the travellers, and said that for -a small reward he would show them a very extraordinary spectacle. When -they had given him some trifle, he plucked a few threads of cotton from -his garment, and twisting them upon the end of his rake, went and held -them over one of the burning fissures, where they were instantly kindled. -He then held the rake over another rent, from which neither flame nor -smoke ascended, and in an instant the gaseous exhalation, previously -invisible, was kindled, and shot up into a tall, bright flame, like that -of a vast gas lamp, which, after burning furiously for some time, to the -unspeakable astonishment of the strangers, died away and disappeared. -Similar phenomena are observed in several parts of the Caucasus, -particularly in the chasms of Mount Shubanai, about four days’ journey -from Okesra. - -From this place they were conducted to the fountains of white naphtha, -where the substance oozed out of the earth as clear as crystal, but -in small quantities. Kæmpfer was surprised to find the wells left -unprotected even by a wall; for if by any accident they were set on fire, -as those near Ecbatana were in ancient times, as we learn from Plutarch, -they would continue to burn for ever with inextinguishable violence. -Having likewise visited the wells of black naphtha, where this pitchy -oil bubbled up out of the earth with a noise like that of a torrent, and -in such abundance that it supplied many countries with lamp oil, our -travellers repaired to a neighbouring village to pass the night. Here -they fared more sumptuously than at Baku; and having supped deliciously -upon figs, grapes, apples, and pomegranates, their unscrupulous hosts, -notwithstanding that they were Mohammedans, unblushingly offered to -provide them with wine and courtesans! Kæmpfer preferring to pass the -evening in learning such particulars as they could furnish respecting the -ancient and modern condition of their country, they merrily crowded about -him, and each in his turn imparted what he knew. When their information -was exhausted, they formed themselves into a kind of wild chorus, -alternately reciting rude pieces of poetry, and proceeding by degrees to -singing and dancing, afforded their guests abundant amusement by their -strange attitudes and gestures. - -Rising next morning with the dawn, they proceeded to view what is termed -by the inhabitants the naphtha hell. Ascending a small hemispherical -hill, they found its summit occupied by a diminutive lake, not exceeding -fifty paces in circumference, the crumbling, marshy margin of which -could only be trodden with the utmost caution. The water, which lay like -a black sheet below, had a muriatic taste; and a strange hollow sound, -arising out of the extremest depths of the lake, continually smote upon -the ear, and increased the horror inspired by the aspect of the place. -From time to time black globules of naphtha came bubbling up to the -surface of the water, and were gradually impelled towards the shore, -where, mixing with earthy particles, they incessantly increased the -crust which on all sides encroached upon the lake, and impended over its -infernal gloom. At a short distance from this hill there was a mountain -which emitted a kind of black ooze impregnated with bitumen, which, being -hardened by the sun as it flowed down over the sides of the mountain, -gave the whole mass the appearance of a prodigious cone of pitch. In -the northern portion of the peninsula they beheld another singular -phenomenon, which was a hill, through the summit of which, as through a -vast tube, immense quantities of potter’s earth ascended, as if impelled -upwards by some machine, and having risen to a considerable height, burst -by its own weight, and rolled down the naked side of the hill. In this -little peninsula nature seems to have elaborated a thousand wonders, -which, however, while they astonish, are useful to mankind. It was with -the produce of Okesra that Milton lighted up his Pandæmonium:— - - From the arched roof, - Pendent by subtle magic, many a row - Of starry lamps and blazing cressets, fed - With _naphtha_ and _asphaltus_, yielded light - As from a sky. - -Returning to Shamakin, which Kæmpfer erroneously supposes to be the -Rhaya of the Bible, our traveller a few days afterward departed for -Ispahan, where he remained nearly two years. Shah Solyman, the prince -then reigning, whose character and court have been so admirably described -by Chardin, was a man whose feeble constitution and feebler mind rendered -him a slave to physicians and astrologers. He was now, by the counsel -of his stargazers, a voluntary prisoner in his own palace, a malignant -constellation, as they affirmed, menacing him with signal misfortunes -should he venture abroad. On the 30th of July, however, the sinister -influence of the stars no longer preventing him, he held a public levee -with the utmost splendour and magnificence; upon which occasion, as -Asiatic princes are peculiarly desirous of appearing to advantage in the -eyes of strangers, all the foreign ambassadors then in the capital were -admitted to an audience. Though the representatives of several superior -nations, as of France, Germany, and Russia, to say nothing of those of -Poland, Siam, or of the pope, were present, the ambassador of Sweden -obtained, I know not wherefore, the precedence over them all. Probably -neither the shah nor his ministers understood the comparative merits -of the various nations of Europe, and regulated their conduct by the -personal character of the envoys; and it would seem that Lewis Fabricius -possessed the secret of rendering himself agreeable to the court of -Persia. - -Meanwhile Kæmpfer, who lost no opportunity of penetrating into the -character and observing the manners of a foreign people, employed his -leisure in collecting materials for the various works which he meditated. -He bestowed particular attention upon the ceremonies and observances -of the court; the character and actions of the shah; the form of -government; the great officers of state; the revenue and forces; and the -religion, customs, dress, food, and manners of the people. His principal -inquiries, however, both here and elsewhere, had medicine and natural -history for their object; and that his researches were neither barren nor -frivolous is demonstrated by his “Amœnitates Exoticæ,” one of the most -instructive and amusing books which have ever been written on the East. - -Towards the conclusion of the year 1686, M. Fabricius, having -successfully terminated his negotiations with the Persian court, prepared -to leave Ispahan; but Germany being still, says Kæmpfer, engaged in -war with France and the Ottoman Porte, he preferred relinquishing his -office of secretary to the embassy, and pushing his fortunes in the -remoter countries of the East, to the idea of beholding, and perhaps -involving himself in the calamities of his native land, which, however -he might deplore, he had no power to remedy or alleviate. He therefore -took his leave of the ambassador, who did him the honour to accompany -him with all his retinue a mile out of Ispahan, and proceeded towards -Gombroon, or Bander-Abassi, having, by the friendship of Father du Mons, -and the recommendations of M. Fabricius, obtained the office of chief -surgeon to the fleet of the Dutch East India Company, then cruising in -the Persian Gulf. He long hesitated, he says, whether he should select -Egypt or the “Farther East” for the field of his researches; and had -not circumstances, which frequently stand in the place of destiny, -interposed, it is probable that the charms of the Nile would have proved -the more powerful. To a man like Kæmpfer, the offer of becoming _chief -physician_ to a Georgian Prince, “with considerable appointments,” which -was made him about this time, could have held out but small temptation, -as he must have been thoroughly acquainted, not only with the general -poverty of both prince and people, but likewise with the utter insecurity -of person and property in that wretched country. - -It was during this journey that he visited the celebrated ruins of -Persepolis. He arrived in sight of the Forty Pillars on the 1st of -December, 1686; and looking towards this scene of ancient magnificence, -where the choicest of the population of a vast empire had once sported -like butterflies in the sun, his eye encountered about fifty black -Turcoman tents upon the plain, before the doors of which sat a number -of women engaged in weaving, while their husbands and children were -amusing themselves in the tents, or absent with the flocks and herds. Not -having seen the simple apparatus which enables the Hindoos to produce -the finest fabrics in the world, whether in chintzes or muslins, Kæmpfer -beheld with astonishment the comparatively excellent productions of these -rude looms, and the skill and industry of the Persepolitan Calypsos, -whose fair fingers thus emulated the illustrious labours of the Homeric -goddesses and queens. It was not within the power of his imagination, -however, inflamed as it was by the gorgeous descriptions of Diodorus and -other ancient historians, to bestow a moment upon any thing modern in -the presence of those mysterious and prodigious ruins, sculptured with -characters which no longer speak to the eye, and exhibiting architectural -details which the ingenuity of these “degenerate days” lacks the acumen -to interpret. Here, if we may conjecture from the solemn splendour of -the language in which he relates what he saw, his mind revelled in those -dreamy delights which are almost inevitably inspired by the sight of -ancient monuments rent, shattered, and half-obliterated by time. - -Having gratified his antiquarian curiosity by the examination of these -memorials of Alexander’s passion for Thaïs, who,— - - Like another Helen, fired another Troy,— - -he continued his journey to Shiraz, where beauties of another kind, -exquisite, to use his own language, beyond credibility, and marvellously -varied, refreshed the eye, and seemed to efface from the mind all -recollection of the fact that the earth contained such things as graves -or ruins. The effervescence of animal spirits occasioned by the air and -aspect of scenes so delicious appeared for the moment to justify the -enthusiasm of the Persian poet, who, half-intoxicated with the perfume of -the atmosphere, exclaims:— - - Boy, bid yon ruby liquid flow, - And let thy pensive heart be glad, - Whate’er the frowning zealots say; - Tell them their Eden cannot show - A stream so pure as Rocknabad, - A bower so sweet as Mosellay! - -But, with all its beauty, Shiraz contains nothing which raises so -powerful an enthusiasm in the soul as two tombs,—the tomb of the bard -who sung the beauties of the Rocknabad, and of the moral author of -the “Rose Garden;” irresistible and lasting are the charms of poetry -and eloquence! Our traveller having acquired at Ispahan sufficient -knowledge of the Persian language to enable him to relish _Hafiz_, -though he complains that he is difficult, as well as the easier and more -popular _Saadi_, whose sayings are in Persia “familiar to their mouths -as household words,” it was impossible that he should pass through the -city where their honoured ashes repose without paying a pious visit to -the spot. Having contemplated these illustrious mausoleums with that -profound veneration which the memory of genius inspires, he returned to -his caravansary half-persuaded, with the Persians, that they who do not -study and treasure up in their souls the maxims of such divine poets can -neither be virtuous nor happy. - -From the poets of Shiraz he naturally turned to its roses and its wine; -the former, in his opinion, the most fragrant upon earth; and the latter -the most balmy and delicious. In his history and description of this -wine, one of the most agreeable articles in his “Amœnitates,” there -is a kind of bacchic energy and enthusiasm, a rhapsodical affectation -of sesquipedalian words, which would seem to indicate that even the -remembrance of this oriental nectar has the power of elevating the animal -spirits. But whatever were the delights of Shiraz, it was necessary to -bid them adieu; and inwardly exclaiming with the calif, “How sweetly we -live if a shadow would last!” he turned his back upon Mosellay and the -Rocknabad, and pursued his route towards Gombroon. - -Here, if he was pleased with contrasts, he could not fail to be highly -gratified; for no two places upon earth could be more unlike than Shiraz -and Gombroon. It was the pestilential air of this detestable coast -that had deprived Della Valle of his Maani, and reduced Chardin to the -brink of the grave; and Kæmpfer had not been there many months before -he experienced in his turn the deadly effects of breathing so inflamed -and insalubrious an atmosphere, from which, in the summer season, even -the natives are compelled to fly to the mountains. Though no doubt the -causes had long been at work, the effect manifested itself suddenly in -a malignant fever, in which he lay delirious for several days. When the -violence of this disorder abated, it was successively followed by a -dropsy and a quartan ague, through which dangerous and unusual steps, -as Dr. Scheuchzer observes, he recovered his health, though not his -former strength and vigour. Admonished by this rough visitation, he -now had recourse to those means for the restoration of his strength -which a more rigid prudence would have taught him to put in practice -for its preservation, and removed with all possible expedition into the -mountainous districts of Laristân. - -On the 16th of June, 1686, at least six weeks after every other sane -person had fled from the place, Kæmpfer set out from Gombroon, sitting in -a pannier suspended from the back of a camel, being too weak to ride on -horseback, and attended by a servant mounted upon an ass, while another -animal of the same species carried his cooking apparatus and provisions. -To shield himself from the burning winds which swept with incredible fury -along these parched and naked plains, he stretched a small sheet over -his head, which, falling down on both sides of the pannier, served as a -kind of tent. Thus covered, he contrived to keep himself tolerably cool -by continually wetting the sheet on the inside; but being clothed in an -exceedingly thin garment, open in several parts, he next day found that -wherever the wet sheet had touched him the skin peeled off as if it had -been burned. Having procured the assistance of a guide, they deserted the -ordinary road, and struck off by a less circuitous, but more difficult -track, through the mountains. The prospect for some time was as dull and -dreary as could be imagined; consisting of a succession of sandy deserts, -here and there interspersed with small salt ponds, the glittering mineral -crust of which showed like so many sheets of snow by the light of the -stars. - -At length, late on the night of the 20th, though the darkness precluded -the possibility of perceiving the form of surrounding objects, he -discovered by the aroma of plants and flowers diffused through the air -that he was approaching a verdant and cultivated spot; and continuing his -journey another day over a rocky plain, he arrived at the foot of the -mountains. Here he found woody and well-watered valleys alternating with -steep and craggy passes, which inspired him with terror as he gazed at -their frowning and tremendous brows from below. By dint of perseverance, -however, he at length reached the summit of Mount Bonna, or at least -the highest inhabited part, though spiry rocks shooting up above this -mountain plateau on every side intercepted all view of the surrounding -country. The chief of the mountain village in which he intended to -reside received him hospitably, and on the very morning after his arrival -introduced him to the spot where he was to remain during his stay. This -was a kind of garden exposed to the north-east, and therefore cool and -airy. Ponds of water, cascades, narrow ravines, overhanging rocks, and -shady trees rendered it a delightful retreat; but as the Persians as well -as the Turks regard our habit of pacing backwards and forwards as no -better than madness, there were no walks worthy of the name. When showers -of rain or any other cause made him desire shelter, he betook himself -to a small edifice in the garden, where his only companion was a large -serpent, which ensconced itself in a hole directly opposite to his couch, -where it passed the night, but rolled out early in the morning to bask in -the sun upon the rocks. Upon a sunny spot in the garden he daily observed -two delicate little chameleons, which, he was persuaded, were delighted -with his society; for at length one or the other of them would follow -him into the house, either to enjoy the warmth of the fire, or to pick -up such crumbs as might drop from his table during dinner. If observed, -however, it would utter a sound like the gentle laugh of a child, and -spring off to its home in the trees. He was shortly afterward joined -by another German invalid from Gombroon, whom he appears to have found -preferable as a companion both to the serpent and the chameleon. - -Having now no other object than to amuse himself and recover his health, -he indulged whatever fancy came uppermost; at one time examining the -plants and trees of the mountain, and at another joining a party of -mountaineers in hunting that singular species of antelope in the -stomach of which the bezoar is found. The chase of this fleet and -timid animal required the hunters to be abroad before day, when they -concealed themselves in some thicket or cavern, or beneath the brows of -overhanging rocks, near the springs to which it usually repaired with -the dawn to drink. They knew, from some peculiarities in the external -appearance of the beasts, such individuals as certainly contained the -bezoar in their stomach from those which did not; and in all his various -excursions Kæmpfer requested his companions to fire at the former only. - -In these same mountains there was an extraordinary cavern concealed -among rugged and nearly inaccessible precipices, from the sides of which -there constantly exuded a precious balsam of a black colour, inodorous, -and almost tasteless, but of singular efficacy in all disorders of the -bowels. The same district likewise contained several hot-baths, numerous -trees and plants, many of which were unknown in Europe, and a profusion -of those fierce animals, such as leopards, bears, and hyenas, which -constitute the game of an Asiatic sportsman. - -Remaining in these mountains until he considered his strength -sufficiently restored, he returned to Gombroon. During his residence in -Persia, which was nearly of four years’ continuance, he collected so -large a quantity of new and curious information, that notwithstanding -that most of the spots he describes had been visited by former -travellers, his whole track seems to run over an untrodden soil; so -true is it that it is the mind of the traveller, far more than the -material scene, which furnishes the elements of interest and novelty. -The history of this part of his travels, therefore, the results of which -are contained in his “Amœnitates,” seemed to deserve being given at -some length. To that curious volume I refer the reader for his ample -and interesting history of the generation, growth, culture, and uses of -the date-palm; his description of that remarkable balsamic juice called -_muminahi_ by the Persians, and mumia, or munmy, by Kæmpfer, which exudes -from a rock in the district of Daraab, and was annually collected with -extraordinary pomp and ceremony for the sole use of the Persian king; and -the curious account which he has given of the _asafœtida_ plant, said -to be produced only in Persia; the _filaria medinensis_, or worm which -breeds between the interstices of the muscles in various parts of the -human body; and the real oriental dragon’s blood, which is obtained from -a coniferous palm. - -About the latter end of June, 1688, he sailed on board the Dutch fleet -from Gombroon, which having orders to touch at Muscat and several other -ports of Arabia, he enjoyed an opportunity of observing something of -the climate and productions of that country, from whose spicy shore, -to borrow the language of Milton, Sabæan odours are diffused by the -north-east winds, when,— - - Pleased with the grateful smell, old Ocean smiles! - -Proceeding eastward through the Indian Ocean, they successively visited -the north-western coasts of the Deccan, the kingdoms of Malabar, the -island of Ceylon, the Gulf of Bengal, and Sumatra; all which countries he -viewed with the same curious eye, the same spirit of industry and thirst -of knowledge. - -Upwards of a year was spent in this delightful voyage, the fleet not -arriving at Batavia, its ultimate point of destination, until the month -of September, 1689. Kæmpfer regarded this chief seat of the Dutch -power in the East as a hackneyed topic, and neglected to bestow any -considerable research or pains upon its history or appearance, its trade, -riches, power, or government; but the natural history of the country, a -subject more within the scope of his taste and studies, as well as more -superficially treated by others, commanded much of his attention. The -curious and extensive garden of Cornelius Van Outhoorn, director-general -of the Dutch East India Company, the garden of M. Moller, and the little -island of Eidam, lying but a few leagues off Batavia, afforded a number -of rare and singular plants, indigenous and exotic, many of which he was -the first to observe and describe. - -It was at that period the policy of the Dutch to send an annual embassy -to the court of Japan, the object of which was to extend and give -stability to their commercial connexion with that country. Kæmpfer, who -had now been eight months in Batavia, and appears during that period to -have made many powerful and useful friends, obtained the signal favour of -being appointed physician to the embassy; and one of the ships receiving -orders to touch at Siam, the authorities, to enhance the obligation, -permitted him to perform the voyage in this vessel, that an opportunity -might be afforded him of beholding the curiosities of that country. - -He sailed from Batavia on the 7th of May, 1690; and steering through -the Thousand Islands, having the lofty mountains of Java and Sumatra in -sight during two days, arrived in thirteen days at Puli Timon, a small -island on the eastern coast of Malacca. The natives, whom he denominates -banditti, were a dark, sickly-looking race, who, owing to their habit of -plucking out their beard, a custom likewise prevalent in Sumatra and the -Malay peninsula, had all the appearance of ugly old women. Their dress -consisted of a coarse cummerbund, or girdle, and a hat manufactured from -the leaves of the sago-palm. They understood nothing of the use of money; -but willingly exchanged their incomparable mangoes, figs, pineapples, and -fowls for linen shirts, rice, or iron. On the 6th of June they arrived -safely in the mouth of the Meinam, and cast anchor before Siam, where -our traveller’s passion for botany immediately led him into the woods -in search of plants; but as tigers and other wild beasts were here the -natural lords of the soil, it was fortunate that his herborizing did not -cost him dearer than he intended. - -In this country, which has recently been so ably described by Mr. -Crawfurd, the historian of the Indian Archipelago, Kæmpfer made but -a short stay. In the capital, which formed the extreme limit of his -knowledge, he observed a great number of temples and schools, adorned -with pyramids and columns of various forms, covered with gilding. Though -smaller than European churches in dimension, they were, he thought, -greatly superior in beauty, on account of their numerous bending and -projecting roofs, gilded architraves, porticoes, pillars, and other -ornaments. In the interior, the great number of gilded images of Buddha, -seated in long rows upon raised terraces, whence they seemed to overlook -the worshippers, increased the picturesque character of the building. -Some of these statues were of enormous size, exceeding not only that -Phidian Jupiter, represented in a sitting posture, which, had it risen, -must have lifted up the roof of the temple, but even those prodigious -statues of Osymandyas, on the plains of Upper Egypt, which look like -petrifactions of Typhæus and Enceladus, the Titans who cast Pelion upon -Ossa. One of these gigantic images, one hundred and twenty feet long, -represents Buddha reclining in a meditative posture, and has set the -fashion in Siam for the attitude in which wisdom may be most successfully -wooed. - -In sailing down the Meinam he was greatly amused with the extraordinary -number of black and gray monkeys, which walked like pigmy armies along -the shore, or perched themselves upon the tops of the loftiest trees, -like crows. The glowworms, he observes, afforded another curious -spectacle; for, setting upon trees, like a fiery cloud, the whole swarm -would spread themselves over its branches, sometimes hiding their light -all at once, and a moment after shining forth again with the utmost -regularity and exactness, as if they were in a perpetual systole and -diastole. The innumerable swarms of mosquitoes which inhabited the -same banks were no less constant and active, though less agreeable -companions, which, from the complaints of our traveller, appear to have -taken a peculiar pleasure in stinging Dutchmen. - -They left the mouth of the river on the 7th of July, and on the 11th of -August discovered the mountains of Fokien in China. Continuing their -course along the southern coast of this empire, they observed, about the -twenty-seventh degree of north latitude, a yellowish-green substance -floating on the surface of the sea, which appeared for two days. Exactly -at the same time they were visited by a number of strange black birds, -which perched on several parts of the ship, and suffered themselves to -be taken by the hand. These visits, which were made during a dead calm, -and when the weather was insufferably hot, was succeeded by tremendous -storms, accompanied by thunder and lightning, and a darkness terrible as -that of Egypt. The rain, which was now added to the other menaces of the -heavens, and was hurled, mingled with brine and spray, over the howling -waves, appeared to threaten a second deluge; and both Kæmpfer and the -crew seem to have anticipated becoming a prey to the sharks. However, -though storm after storm beat upon them in their course, the “audax genus -Japeti” boldly pursued their way, and on the 24th of September cast -anchor in the harbour of Nangasaki, in Japan, which is enclosed with -lofty mountains, islands, and rocks, and thus guarded by nature against -the rage of the sea and the fury of the tempest. - -The appearance of this harbour, which on the arrival of Kæmpfer was -enlivened by a small fleet of pleasure-boats, was singularly picturesque. -In the evening all the vessels and boats put up their lights, which -twinkled like so many stars, over the dark waves; and when the warm light -of the morning appeared, the pleasure-boats, with their alternate black -and white sails, standing out of the port, and gilded by the bright -sunshine, constituted an agreeable spectacle. The next sight was equally -striking. This consisted of a number of Japanese officers, with pencil -and paper in hand, who came on board for the purpose of reviewing the -newly-arrived foreigners, of whom, after narrowly scrutinizing every -individual, they made an exact list and description of their persons, -in the same manner as we describe thieves and suspicious characters in -Europe. All their arms and ammunition, together with their boat and -skiff, were demanded and delivered up. Their prayer-books and European -money they concealed in a cask, which was carefully stowed away out of -the reach of the Japanese. - -Kæmpfer quitted the ship as soon as possible, and took up his residence -at Desima, a small island adjoining Nangasaki, or only separated from it -by an artificial channel. Here he forthwith commenced the study of the -language, and the contrivance of the means of acquiring from a people -bound by a solemn oath to impart nothing to foreigners such information -respecting the country, its institutions, religion, and manners as might -satisfy the curiosity of the rest of mankind respecting so singular a -nation. The difficulties, he observes, with which he had to contend were -great, but not altogether insuperable; and might be overcome by proper -management, notwithstanding all the precautions which the Japanese -government had taken to the contrary. The Japanese, a prudent and valiant -nation, were not so easily to be bound by an oath taken to such gods or -spirits as were not worshipped by many, and were unknown to most; or if -they did comply, it was chiefly from fear of the punishment which would -inevitably overtake them if betrayed. Besides, though proud and warlike, -they were as curious and polite a nation as any in the world, naturally -inclined to commerce and familiarity with foreigners, and desirous to -excess of acquiring a knowledge of their histories, arts, and sciences. -But the Dutch being merchants, a class of men which they ranked among -the lowest of the human race, and viewed with jealousy and mistrust even -for the very slavish and suspicious condition in which they were held, -our traveller could discover no mode of insinuating himself into their -friendship, and winning them over to his interest, but by evincing a -readiness to comply with their desires, a liberality which subdued their -avarice, and an humble and submissive manner which flattered their vanity. - -By these means, as he ingenuously confesses, he contrived, like another -Ulysses, to subdue the spells of religion and government; and having -gained the friendship and good opinion of the interpreters and the -officers who commanded in Desima, to a degree never before possessed -by any European, the road to the knowledge he desired lay open and -level before him. It would, indeed, have been no easy task to resist -the methods he put in practice for effecting his purpose. He liberally -imparted to them both medicine and medical advice, and whatever knowledge -he possessed in astronomy and mathematics; he likewise furnished them -with a liberal supply of European spirituous liquors; and these, joined -with the force of captivating manners, were arguments irresistible. He -was therefore permitted by degrees to put whatever questions he pleased -to them respecting their government, civil and ecclesiastical, the -political and natural history of the country, the manners and customs -of the natives, or any other point upon which he required information; -even in those matters on which the most inviolable secrecy was enjoined -by their oaths. The materials thus collected, however, though highly -important and serviceable, were far from being altogether satisfactory, -or sufficient foundation whereon to erect a history of the country; -which, therefore, he must have left unattempted had not his good genius -presented him with other still more ample means of knowledge. - -Upon his arrival in Desima young man of about four-and-twenty, prudent, -sagacious, indefatigable, thoroughly acquainted with the languages of -China and Japan, and ardently desirous of improving himself in knowledge, -was appointed to attend upon him, in the double capacity of servant and -pupil. This young man had the good fortune, while under the direction of -Kæmpfer, to cure the governor of the island of some complaint under which -he laboured; for which important service he was permitted, apparently -contrary to rule, to remain in the service of our traveller during the -whole of his stay in Japan, and even to accompany him on his two journeys -to the capital. In order to derive all possible advantage from the -friendship of his pupil, Kæmpfer taught him Dutch, as well as anatomy and -surgery; and moreover allowed him a handsome salary. The Japanese was not -ungrateful. He collected with the utmost assiduity from every accessible -source such information as his master required; and there was not a book -which Kæmpfer desired to consult that he did not contrive to procure for -him, and explain whenever his explanation was necessary. - -About the middle of February, 1691, the customary presents having been -got ready, and the necessary preparations made, the Dutch embassy set out -from Nangasaki for the court of the emperor, with Kæmpfer and his pupil -in its train. Having got fairly out of the city they proceeded on their -journey, passing through the small village of Mangome, wholly inhabited -by leather-tanners, who perform the office of public executioners -in Japan; and in about two hours passed a stone pillar marking the -boundaries of the territory of Nangasaki. Here and there upon the wayside -they beheld the statue of Zisos, the god of travellers, hewn out of -the solid rock, with a lamp burning before it, and wreaths of flowers -adorning its brows. At a little distance from the image of the god stood -a basin full of water, in which such travellers performed their ablutions -as designed to light the sacred lamps, or make any other offering in -honour of the divinity. - -Towards the afternoon of the first day’s journey they arrived at the -harbour of Omura, on the shore of which they observed the smoke of a -small volcano. Pearl oysters were found in this bay; and the sands upon -the coast had once been strewn with gold, but the encroachment of the sea -had inundated this El Doradian beach. Next morning they passed within -sight of a prodigious camphor-tree, not less than thirty-six feet in -circumference, standing upon the summit of a craggy and pointed hill; -and soon afterward arrived at a village famous for its hot-baths. After -passing through another village, they reached a celebrated porcelain -manufactory, where the clay used was of a fat-coloured white, requiring -much kneading, washing, and cleansing, before it could be employed in -the formation of the finer and more transparent vessels. The vast labour -required in this manufacture gave rise to the old saying, that porcelain -was formed of human bones. - -The country through which they now travelled was agreeably diversified -with hill and dale, cultivated like a garden, and sprinkled with -beautiful fields of rice, enclosed by rows of the tea-shrub, planted at -a short distance from the road. On the next day they entered a plain -country, watered by numerous rivers, and laid out in rice-fields like -the former. In passing through this district they had for the first time -an opportunity of observing the form and features of the women of the -province of Fisen. Though already mothers, and attended by a numerous -progeny, they were so diminutive in stature that they appeared to be so -many girls, while the paint which covered their faces gave them the air -of great babies or dolls. They were handsome, however, notwithstanding -that, in their quality of married women, they had plucked out the hair of -both eyebrows; and their behaviour was agreeable and genteel. At Sanga, -the capital of the province, he remarked the same outrageous passion -for painting the face in all the sex, though they were naturally the -most beautiful women in Asia; and, as might be conjectured from the rosy -colour of their lips, possessed a fine healthy complexion. - -Upon quitting the province of Fisen, and entering that of Toussima, -a mountainous and rugged country, they travelled in a rude species -of palanquin called a cango, being nothing more than a small square -basket, open on all sides, though covered at top, and carried upon a -pole by two bearers. In ascending the mountain of Fiamitz they passed -through a village, the inhabitants of which, they were told, were all -the descendants of one man, who was then living. Whether this was true -or not, Kæmpfer found them so handsome and well formed, and at the same -time so polished and humane in their conversation and manners, that they -seemed to be a race of noblemen. The scenery in this district resembled -some of the woody and mountainous parts of Germany, consisting of a -rapid succession of hills and valleys, covered with copses or woods; and -though in some few places too barren to admit of cultivation, yet, where -fertile, so highly valued, that even the tea-shrub was only allowed to -occupy the space usually allotted to enclosures. - -On the 17th of February they reached the city of Kokura, in the province -of Busen. Though considerably fallen from its ancient opulence and -splendour, Kokura was still a large city, fortified by towers and -bastions, adorned with many curious gardens and public buildings, and -inhabited by a numerous population. Here they moved through two long -lines of people, who lined both sides of the way, and knelt in profound -silence while they passed. They then embarked in barges; and, sailing -across the narrow strait which divides the island of Kiersu from Nisson, -landed at Simonoseki in the latter island, the name of which signified -the prop of the sun. Next day being Sunday, they remained at Simonoseki; -and Kæmpfer strolled out to view the city and its neighbourhood. He found -it filled with shops of all kinds, among which were those of certain -stonecutters, who, from a black and gray species of serpentine stone, -dug from the quarries in the vicinity, manufactured inkstands, plates, -boxes, and several other articles, with great neatness and ingenuity. -He likewise visited a temple erected to the manes of a young prince who -had prematurely perished. This he found hung, like their theatres, with -black crape, while the pavement was partly covered with carpets inwrought -with silver. The statue of the royal youth stood upon an altar; and -the Japanese who accompanied our traveller bowed before it, while the -attendant priest lit up a lamp, and pronounced a kind of funeral oration -in honour of the illustrious dead. From the temple they were conducted -into the adjoining monastery, where they found the prior, a thin, -grave-looking old man, clothed in a robe of black crape, who sat upon the -floor; and making a small present to the establishment, they departed. - -Next morning, February 19th, they embarked for Osaki, preferring the -voyage by water to a toilsome journey over a rude and mountainous region; -and, after sailing through a sea thickly studded with small islands, -the greater number of which were fertile and covered with population, -arrived in five days at their point of destination. Osaki, one of the -five imperial cities of Japan, was a place of considerable extent -and great opulence. The streets were broad, and in the centre of the -principal ones ran a canal, navigable for small unmasted vessels, which -conveyed all kinds of merchandise to the doors of the merchants; while -upwards of a hundred bridges, many of which were extremely beautiful, -spanned these canals, and communicated a picturesque and lively air to -the whole city. The sides of the river were lined with freestone, which -descended in steps from the streets to the water, and enabled persons -to land or embark wherever they pleased. The bridges thrown over the -main stream were constructed with cedar, elegantly railed on both sides, -and ornamented from space to space with little globes of brass. The -population of the city was immense; and, like those of most seaport -towns, remarkably addicted to luxury and voluptuousness. - -From Osaki they proceeded through a plain country, planted with rice, and -adorned with plantations of Tsadanil trees, to Miako, the ancient capital -of Japan. It being the first day of the month, which the Japanese keep as -a holyday, they met great multitudes of people walking out of the city, -as the Londoners do on Sunday, to enjoy the sweets of cessation from -labour, - - With pleasaunce of the breathing fields yfed, - -to visit the temples, and give themselves up to all kinds of rural -diversions. Nothing could be more grotesque than the appearance of these -crowds. The women were richly dressed in various-coloured robes, with a -purple-coloured silk about their foreheads, and wearing large straw hats, -to defend their beauty from the sun. Here and there among the multitude -were small groups of beggars, some dressed in fantastic garbs, with -strange masks upon their faces, others walking upon high iron stilts, -while a third party walked along bearing large pots with green trees -upon their heads. The more merry among them sung, whistled, played upon -the flute, or beat little bells which they carried in their hands. In -the streets were numbers of open shops, jugglers, and players, who were -exercising their skill and ingenuity for the amusement of the crowd. -The temples, which were erected on the slope of the neighbouring green -hills, were illuminated with numerous lamps, and the priests, no less -merry or active than their neighbours, employed themselves in striking -with iron hammers upon some bells or gongs, which sent forth a thundering -sound over the country. Through this enlivening scene they pushed on to -their inn, where they were ushered into apartments, which, being like all -other apartments in the empire, destitute of chimneys, resembled those -Westphalian smoking-rooms in which they smoke their beef and hams. - -Having visited the governor, and the lord chief justice of Miako, and -delivered the customary presents, the embassy proceeded towards Jeddo. -Short, however, as was their stay, Kæmpfer found leisure for observing -and describing the city, which was extensive, well-built, and immensely -populous. Being the chief mercantile and manufacturing town in the -empire, almost every house was a shop, and every man an artisan. Here, -he observes, they refined copper, coined money, printed books, wove the -richest stuffs, flowered with gold and silver, manufactured musical -instruments, the best-tempered sword-blades, pictures, jewels, toys, and -every species of dress and ornaments. - -They departed from Miako in palanquins on the 2d of March, and travelling -through a picturesque country, dotted with groves, glittering with -temples and lakes, and admirably cultivated, arrived in three days at the -town of Mijah, where they saw a very curious edifice, called the “Temple -of the Three Scimitars,” where three miraculous swords, once wielded by -demigods, are honoured with a kind of divine worship. On the 13th of -March they arrived, by a fine road running along the edge of the sea, -at Jeddo, and entered the principal street, where they encountered as -they rode along numerous trains of princes and great lords, with ladies -magnificently dressed, and carried in chairs or palanquins. This city, -the largest and most populous in the empire, stands at the bottom of a -large bay or gulf, and is at least twenty miles in circumference. Though -fortified by numerous ditches and ramparts, Jeddo is not surrounded by -a wall. A noble river, which divides itself into numerous branches, -intersects it in various directions, and thus creates a number of -islands which are connected by magnificent bridges. From the principal -of these bridges, which is called Niponbas, or the Bridge of Japan, -the great roads leading to all parts of the empire radiate as lines -from a common centre, and thence likewise all roads and distances are -measured. Though houses are not kept ready built, as at Moscow, to be -removed at a moment’s notice in case of destruction by fire or any other -accident, they are generally so slight, consisting entirely of wood and -wainscotting, that they may be erected with extraordinary despatch. -Owing to the combustible materials of those edifices, the very roofs -consisting of mere wood-shavings, while all the floors are covered with -mats, Jeddo is exceedingly liable to fires, which sometimes lay waste -whole streets and quarters of the city. To check these conflagrations in -their beginnings every house has a small wooden cistern of water on the -house-top, with two mops for sprinkling the water; but these precautions -being frequently found inefficient, large companies of firemen constantly -patrol the streets, day and night, in order, by pulling down some of the -neighbouring houses, to put a stop to the fires. The imperial palace, -five Japanese miles in circumference, consists of several castles -united together by a wall, and surrounded by a deep ditch. The various -structures which compose this vast residence are built with freestone, -and from amid the wilderness of roofs a square white tower rises aloft, -and, consisting of many stories, each of which has its leaded roof, -ornamented at each corner with gilded dragons, communicates to the whole -scene an air of singular grandeur and beauty. Behind the palace, which -itself stands upon an acclivity, the ground continues to rise, and this -whole slope is adorned, according to the taste of the country, with -curious and magnificent gardens, which are terminated by a pleasant wood -on the top of a hill, planted with two different species of plane-trees, -whose starry leaves, variegated with green, yellow, and red, are -exceedingly beautiful. - -When their arrival at Jeddo was notified to the imperial commissioners, -to whom was intrusted the regulation of foreign affairs, they were -commanded to be kept confined in their apartments, and strictly guarded. -This, in all probability, was to prevent their discovering the tremendous -accident which had lately occurred in the city, where forty streets, -consisting of four thousand houses, had been burned to the ground a few -days before their arrival. Several other fires, exceedingly destructive -and terrific, and an earthquake which shook the whole city to its -foundations, happened within a few days after their arrival. On the -29th of March they were honoured with an audience. Passing through the -numerous gates and avenues to the palace between lines of soldiers, armed -with scimitars, and clothed in black silk, they were conducted into an -apartment adjoining the hall of audience, where they were commanded to -await the emperor’s pleasure. As nothing could more forcibly paint the -insolent pride of this barbarian despot, or the degraded position which, -for the sake of gain, the Dutch were content to occupy in Japan, I -shall describe this humiliating ceremony in the words of the traveller -himself. “Having waited upwards of an hour,” says he, “and the emperor -having in the mean while seated himself in the hall of audience, Sino -Comi (the governor of Nangasaki) and the two commissioners came in and -conducted our resident into the emperor’s presence, leaving us behind. As -soon as he came thither, they cried out aloud ‘Hollanda Captain!’ which -was the signal for him to draw near, and make his obeisance. Accordingly -he crawled on his hands and knees to a place shown him, between the -presents ranged in due order on one side, and the place where the emperor -sat, on the other, and then kneeling, he bowed his forehead quite down to -the ground, and so crawled backwards, like a crab, without uttering one -single word. So mean and short a thing is the audience we have of this -mighty monarch.” - -After a second audience, to which they were invited chiefly for the -purpose of allowing the ladies of the harem, who viewed them from behind -screens, an opportunity of seeing what kind of animals Dutchmen were, and -having despatched the public business, which was the sole object of the -embassy, they returned to Nangasaki. During this second visit to Jeddo, -in the following year, nothing very remarkable occurred, except that they -were invited to dine in the palace, and thus afforded an opportunity of -observing the etiquette of a Japanese feast. Each guest was placed at -a small separate table, and the repast commenced with hot white cakes -as tough as glue, and two hollow loaves of large dimension, composed of -flour and sugar, and sprinkled over with the seeds of the sesamum album. -Then followed a small quantity of pickled salmon; and the magnificent -entertainment was concluded with a few cups of tea, which Kæmpfer assures -us was little better than warm water! When they had devoured this -sumptuous feast, they were conducted towards the hall of audience, where, -after having been questioned respecting their names and age by several -Buddhist priests and others, Kæmpfer was commanded to sing a song, for -the amusement of the emperor and his ladies, who were all present, but -concealed behind screens. He of course obeyed, and sung some verses which -he had formerly written in praise of a lady for whom he says he had a -very particular esteem. As he extolled the beauty of this paragon to the -highest degree, preferring it before millions of money, the emperor, -who appears to have partly understood what he sung, inquired the exact -meaning of those words; upon which, like a true courtier, our traveller -replied that they signified nothing but his sincere wishes that Heaven -might bestow “millions of portions of health, fortune, and prosperity -upon the emperor, his family, and court.” The various members of the -embassy were then commanded, as they had been on the former audience, -to throw off their cloaks, to walk about the room, and to exhibit in -pantomime in what manner they paid compliments, took leave of their -parents, mistresses, or friends, quarrelled, scolded, and were reconciled -again. Another repast, somewhat more ample than the preceding, followed -this farce, and their audience was concluded. - -Having now remained in Asia ten years, two of which were spent in Japan, -the desire of revisiting his native land was awakened in his mind, and -quitting Japan in the month of November, 1692, he sailed for Batavia. -Here, in February, 1693, he embarked for Europe. The voyage lasted a -whole year, during which they were constantly out at sea, with the -exception of a few weeks, which they spent upon the solitudes of an -African promontory, for so he denominates the Cape of Good Hope. He -arrived at Amsterdam in the October following; and now, after having, -as M. Eriès observes, pushed his researches almost beyond the limits of -the old world, began to think of taking his doctor’s degree, a measure -which most physicians are careful to expedite before they commence their -peregrinations. He was honoured with the desired title at Leyden, in -April, 1694, and custom requiring an inaugural discourse, he selected -for the purpose ten of the most singular of those dissertations which he -afterward published in his “Amœnitates.” - -This affair, which is still, I believe, considered important in Germany, -being concluded, he returned to his own country, where his reputation and -agreeable manners, together with the honour of being appointed physician -to his sovereign, the Count de Lippe, overwhelmed him with so extreme a -practice that he could command no leisure for digesting and arranging the -literary materials, the only riches, as he observes, which he had amassed -during his travels. However, busy as he was, he found opportunities of -conciliating the favour of some fair Westphalian, who, he hoped, might -deliver him from a portion of his cares. In this natural expectation -he was disappointed. The lady, far from concurring with her lord in -smoothing the rugged path of human life, was a second Xantippe, and, as -one of Kæmpfer’s nephews relates, poured more fearful storms upon his -head than those which he had endured on the ocean. His marriage, in fact, -was altogether unfortunate; for his three children, who might, perhaps, -have made some amends for their mother’s harshness, died in the cradle. - -It was upwards of eighteen years after his return that he published the -first fruits of his travels and researches—the “Amœnitates Exoticæ;” -which, however, immediately diffused his reputation over the whole of -Europe. But his health had already begun to decline, and before he could -prepare for the press any further specimens of his capacity and learning, -death stepped in, and snatched him away from the enjoyment of his fame -and friends, on the 2d of November, 1716, in the 66th year of his age. -He was interred in the cathedral church of St. Nicholas, at Lemgow; and -Berthold Haeck, minister of the town, pronounced a funeral sermon, or -panegyric, over his grave, which was afterward printed. - -Upon the death of Kæmpfer being made known in England, Sir Hans Sloane, -whose ardour for the improvement of science is well known, commissioned -the German physician of George I., who happened to be at that time -proceeding to Hanover, to make inquiries respecting our traveller’s -manuscripts, and to purchase them, if they were to be disposed of. They -were accordingly purchased, together with all his drawings; and on their -being brought to England, Dr. Scheuchzer, a man of considerable ability, -was employed to translate the principal work, the “History of Japan,” -into English. From this version, which has since been proved to have -been executed with care and fidelity, it was translated into French by -Desmaigeneux, and retranslated into German in an imperfect and slovenly -manner. However, after the lapse of many years, the original MS was -faithfully copied, and the work, hitherto known to our traveller’s own -countrymen chiefly through foreign translations, published in Germany. -Many of Kæmpfer’s manuscripts still remain unpublished in the British -Museum. - -Kæmpfer may very justly be ranked among the most distinguished of modern -travellers. To the most extensive learning he united an enterprising -character, singular rectitude of judgment, great warmth of fancy, and a -style of remarkable purity and elegance. His “Amœnitates” and “History of -Japan” may, in fact, be reckoned among the most valuable and interesting -works which have ever been written on the manners, customs, or natural -history of the East. - - - - -HENRY MAUNDRELL. - - -Of the birth, education, and early life of this traveller little or -nothing appears to be known with certainty. His friends, who were of -genteel rank, since he calls Sir Charles Hodges, judge of the High Court -of Admiralty, his uncle, seem to have resided in the neighbourhood of -Richmond. Having completed his studies, and taken the degree of master -of arts at Oxford, he was appointed chaplain to the English factory -at Aleppo, and departed from England in the year 1695. Part of this -journey was performed by land; but whether it passed off smoothly, or -was diversified by incidents and adventures, we are left to conjecture, -our traveller not having thought his movements of sufficient importance -to be known to posterity. It is simply recorded that he passed through -Germany, and made some short stay at Frankfort, where he conversed with -the celebrated Job Ludolphus, who, learning his design of residing in -Syria, and visiting the Holy Land, communicated to him several questions, -the clearing up of which upon the spot might, it was hoped, tend to -illustrate various passages in the Old and New Testaments. - -Shortly after his arrival at Aleppo, he undertook, in company with a -considerable number of his flock, that journey to Jerusalem which, short -and unimportant as it was, has added his name to the list of celebrated -travellers; so pleasantly, ingenuously, and delightfully is it described. -The history of the short period of his life consumed in this excursion is -all that remains to us; and this is just sufficient to excite our regret -that we can know no more; for, from the moment of his introduction into -our company until he quits us to carry on his pious and noiseless labours -at Aleppo, diversified only by friendly dinners and rural promenades or -hunting, we view his character with unmingled satisfaction. He was a -learned, cheerful, able, conscientious man, who viewed with a pleasure -which he has not sought either to exaggerate or disguise the spots -rendered venerable by the footsteps or sufferings of Christ, and of the -prophets, martyrs, and apostles. - -Maundrell and his companions departed from Aleppo on the 26th of -February, 1696, and crossing the plains of Kefteen, which are fruitful, -well cultivated, and of immense extent, arriving in two days at Shogr, -a large but dirty town on the banks of the Orontes, where there was a -splendid khan erected by the celebrated Grand Vizier Kuperli, on the next -day they entered the pashalic of Tripoli; travelling through a woody, -mountainous country, beneath the shade of overarching trees, amused by -the roar of torrents, or by the sight of valleys whose green turf was -sprinkled with myrtles, oleanders, tulips, anemonies, and various other -aromatic plants and flowers. In traversing a low valley they passed over -a stream rolling through a narrow rocky channel ninety feet deep, which -was called the Sheïkh’s Wife, an Arab princess having formerly perished -in this dismal chasm. - -Crossing _Gebel Occaby_, or the “Mountain of Difficulty,” which, -according to our traveller, fully deserves its name, they arrived -towards evening at Belulca, a village famous for its wretchedness, -and for the extremely humble condition to which Christianity is there -reduced,—Christ being, to use his own expressive words, once more laid -in a manger in that place. The poorness of their entertainment urged -them to quit Belulca as quickly as possible, though the weather, which -during the preceding day had been extremely bad, was still far from being -settled; and they had not proceeded far before they began to regret this -miserable resting-place, the rains bursting out again with redoubled -violence, breaking up the roads, and swelling the mountain torrents to -overflowing. At length, however, they arrived opposite a small village, -to reach which they had only to cross a little rivulet, dry in summer, -but now increased by the rains to a considerable volume, and found upon -trial to be impassable. In this dilemma, they had merely the choice of -returning to the miserable, inhospitable den where they had passed the -preceding night, or of pitching their tent where they were, and awaiting -the falling of the stream. The latter appeared the preferable course, -though the weather seemed to menace a second deluge, the most terrible -thunder and lightning now mingling with and increasing the horrors of the -storm; while their servants and horses, whom their single tent was too -small to shelter, stood dripping, exposed to all the fury of the heavens. -At length a small sheïkh’s house, or burying-place, was discovered in the -distance, where they hoped to be allowed to take shelter along with the -saints’ bones; but the difficulty was how to gain admittance, it being -probable that the people of the village would regard the approach of so -many infidels to the tomb of their holy men as a profanation not to be -endured. To negotiate this matter, a Turk, whom they had brought along -with them for such occasions, was despatched towards the villagers, to -obtain permission peaceably, if possible; if not, to inform them that -they would enter the edifice by force. It is possible that the Ottoman -exceeded his instructions in his menaces; for the indignation of the -villagers was roused, and declaring that it was their creed to detest -and renounce Omar and Abubeer, while they honoured Ahmed and Ali, they -informed the janizary that they would die upon the infidels’ swords -rather than submit to have their faith defiled. The travellers on their -part assured them that the opinion they entertained of Omar and Abubeer -was in no respect better than their own; that they had no intention -whatever to defile their holy places; and that their only object at -present was to obtain somewhere or another a shelter from the inclemency -of the weather. This apparent participation in their sectarian feelings -somewhat mollified their disposition, and they at length consented to -unlock the doors of the tomb, and allow the infidels to deposite their -baggage in it; but with respect to themselves, it was decreed by the -remorseless villagers that they were to pass the night _sub Jove_. When -our travellers saw the door opened, however, they began secretly to laugh -at the beards of the honest zealots, being resolved, as soon as sleep -should have wrapped itself round these poor people like a cloak, as -Sancho words it, to steal quietly into the tomb, and dream for once upon -a holy grave. They did so; but either the anger of the sheïkh or their -wet garments caused them to pass but a melancholy night. - -Next morning, the waters of the river, which rose and fell with equal -rapidity, having sunk to their ordinary level, they issued forth from -their sacred apartments, and proceeding westward for some time, they at -length ascended a lofty eminence, from whence, across a wide and fertile -plain, they discovered the city of Latichen, founded by Seleucus Nicator -on the margin of the sea. Leaving this city and the Mediterranean on the -right-hand, and a high ridge of mountains on the left, they proceeded -through the plain towards Gibili, the ancient Gabala, where they arrived -in the evening, and remained one day to recruit themselves. In the hills -near this city were found the extraordinary sect of the Nessariah, which -still subsists, and are supposed to be a remnant of the ancient pagan -population, worshippers of Venus-Mylitta and the sun. - -Proceeding southward along the seacoast they crossed the Nahrel-Melek, -or King’s River, passed through Baneas, the ancient Balanea, and arrived -towards sunset at Tortosa, the Orthosia of antiquity, erected on the edge -of a fertile plain so close to the sea that the spray still dashes among -its crumbling monuments. Continuing their journey towards Tripoli, they -beheld on their right, at about three miles’ distance from the shore, -the little island of Ruad, the Arvad or Alphad of the Scriptures, and -the Andus of the Greeks and Romans, a place which, though not above two -or three furlongs in length, was once renowned for its distant naval -expeditions and immense commerce, in which it maintained for a time a -rivalry even with Tyre and Sidon themselves. Having travelled thus far -by forced marches, as it were, they determined to remain a whole week at -Tripoli, to repose their “wearied virtue,” and by eating good dinners -and making merry with their friends, prepare themselves for the enduring -of those “slings and arrows of outrageous fortune,” which all flesh, -but especially travelling flesh, is heir to. But the more fortunate and -happy the hero of the narrative happens to be, the more unfortunate and -melancholy is his biographer, for happiness is extremely dull and insipid -to every one except the individual who tastes it. For this reason we -hurry as fast as possible over all the bright passages of a man’s life, -but dwell with delight on his sufferings, his perils, his hair-breadth -escapes, not, as some shallow reasoners would have it, because we rejoice -at the misfortunes of another, but because our sympathies can be awakened -by nothing but manifestations of intellectual energy and virtue, which -shine forth most gloriously, not on the calm waves of enjoyment, but amid -the storms and tempests of human affairs. - -We therefore snatch our traveller from the rural parties and cool valleys -of Tripoli, in order to expose him to toil and the spears of the Arabs. -The week of pleasure being expired, the party set forward towards the -south, and proceeding for five hours along the coast, arrived at a high -rocky promontory, intersecting the road, and looking with a smooth, -towering, and almost perpendicular face upon the sea. This appears to -be the promontory called by Strabo, but wherefore is not known, τὸ του -Θεου Προσώπον, or the Face of God. Near this strangely-named spot they -encamped for the night under the shade of a cluster of olive-trees. -Surmounting this steep and difficult barrier in the morning, they pursued -their way along the shore until they arrived at Gabail, the ancient -Byblus, a place once famous for the birth and worship of Adonis. In this -place they made little or no stay, pushing hastily forward to the Nahr -Ibrahim, the river Adonis of antiquity, the shadows of Grecian fable -crowding thicker and thicker upon their minds as they advanced, and -bringing along with them sweet schoolboy recollections, sunny dreams, -which the colder phenomena of real life never wholly expel from ardent -and imaginative minds. Here they pitched their tent, on the banks of the -stream, and prepared to pass the night amid those fields where of old the -virgins of the country assembled to unite with the goddess of beauty, in -lamentations for Adonis, - - Whose annual wound in Lebanon allured - The Syrian damsels to lament his fate - In amorous ditties all a summer’s day, - While smooth Adonis from his native rock - Ran purple to the sea, supposed with blood - Of Thammuz yearly wounded: the love-tale - Infected Sion’s daughters with like heat, - Whose wanton passions in the sacred porch - Ezekiel saw, when by the vision led - His eye surveyed the dark idolatries - Of alienated Judah. - -The night was rainy and tempestuous, and when they looked out in the -morning the _Nahr Ibrahim_ had assumed that sanguine hue, which, -according to Lucian, always distinguishes it at that season of the year -in which the festival of Adonis was celebrated. Nay, the stream not only -“ran purple to the sea,” but had actually, as they observed in travelling -along, communicated its bloody colour to the waves of the Mediterranean -to a considerable distance from the land, just as the Nile discolours -them at the time of the inundation along the whole coast of the Delta. - -Their road now lay nearly at the foot of those steep and rugged mountains -which have for many ages been inhabited by the Maronites, several of -whose convents they discerned perched like eagles’ nests on the bare -summit of the crags. A road cut for a considerable distance through the -solid rock, and a track still more rude and wild, worn by the footsteps -of travellers in the side of the mountain, at length brought them to -the river Lycus, or Canis, the _Nahr-el-Kelb_, or “Dog’s River,” of the -Turks and Arabs. Proceeding along a low sandy shore, and crossing the -_Nahr-el-Salib_, they arrived at a small field near the sea, where St. -George, the patron of England, acting over again the fable of Apollo -and Python, fought with and killed that mighty dragon which still shows -its shining scales on the golden coin of Great Britain. A small chapel, -now converted into a mosque, was anciently erected on the spot in -commemoration of the exploit. In the evening they arrived at Beiroot, -where they remained the following day, examining the ruins and present -aspect of the city. - -The principal curiosities of Beiroot were the palace and gardens of -Fakreddin, fourth prince of the Druzes, a people of Mount Lebanon, said -to be descended from the fragments of those Christian armies which, after -the final failure of the Crusades, were unable or unwilling to return -to their own countries, and took up their residence in the mountain -fastnesses of the Holy Land. Originally the gardens of Fakreddin must -have been a little paradise. Even when Maundrell was there, after -time and neglect had considerably impaired their beauty, they were -still worthy of admiration. Large and lofty orange-trees of the deepest -verdure, among which the ripe yellow fruit hung thickly suspended like -oblong spheres of gold, shaded the walks; while below small shining -rivulets of the purest water ran rippling along, through channels of hewn -stone, spreading coolness through the air, and distributing themselves -over the gardens by many imperceptible outlets. - -On leaving Beiroot they proceeded through a spacious plain, and -traversing a large grove of pine-trees, planted by the Emīr Fakreddin, -arrived in two hours on the banks of the river Dammar, anciently Tamyras, -in which, about four years before, the younger Spon had been drowned in -proceeding northward from Jerusalem. Coming up to the edge of the stream, -they found a number of men, who, observing their approach, had stripped -themselves naked, in order to aid them in passing the stream; but having -previously learned that a bridge which once spanned this river had been -purposely broken down by these officious guides, in order to render their -services necessary, and that, moreover, they sometimes drowned travellers -to obtain their property, they disappointed the ruffians, and ascending -along the stream for some time, at length discovered a ford, and crossed -without their aid. - -At the Awle, a small river about three miles north of Sidon, our -travellers were met by several French merchants from this city, who, -having been informed of their drawing near, had come out to welcome -them. From these friends they learned, however, that the French consul, -who, being also consul of Jerusalem, was compelled by the duties of his -office to visit the Holy City every Easter, had departed from Sidon the -day before; but that as he meant to make some stay at Acra, they might -hope to overtake him there. On this account they again set out early -next morning, and keeping close to the sea, passed by the site of the -ancient Sarepta, crossed the Nahr-el-Kasmin, and in another hour arrived -at Tyre, where, notwithstanding their anxiety to place themselves under -the protection of the French consul, who was travelling with an escort, -they were detained for a moment by the recollection of the ancient glory -of the place. - -Having indulged their curiosity for an instant, they again hurried -forward, the phantom of the consul still flitting before them, like the -enchanted bird in the Arabian Nights, and reached Ras-el-Am, or the -“Promontory of the Fountains,” where those famous reservoirs called the -“Cisterns of Solomon” are situated. Our traveller, who had little respect -for traditions, conjectured that these works, however ancient they might -be, could not with propriety be ascribed to the Hebrew king, since the -aqueduct which they were intended to supply was built upon the narrow -isthmus uniting the island to the continent, constructed by Alexander -during the siege of the city; and we may be sure, he observes, that the -aqueduct cannot very well be older than the ground it stands upon. - -At Acra they found the consul, who had politely delayed his departure to -the last moment in order to give them time to arrive; and next morning -continued their journey in his company. Crossing the river Belus, on -whose banks glass is said to have been first manufactured, and making -across the plain towards the foot of Carmel, they entered the narrow -valley through which the ancient Kishon, famous for the destruction of -Sisera’s host, rolls its waters towards the sea. After threading for many -hours the mazes of this narrow valley, they issued forth towards evening -upon the plains of Esdraelon sprinkled with Arab flocks and tents, and in -the distance beheld the famous mounts of Tabor and Hermon, and the sacred -site of Nazareth. Here they learned the full force of the Psalmist’s -poetical allusions to the “dews of Hermon,” for in the morning they found -their tents as completely drenched by it as if it had rained all night. - -Paying the customary tribute to the Arabs as they passed, they proceeded -on their way, their eyes resting at every step on some celebrated spot: -Samaria, Sichem, mounts Ebal and Gerizim, places rendered venerable -by the wanderings of prophets and patriarchs, but hallowed in a more -especial manner by the footsteps of Christ. They now began to enter upon -a more rocky and mountainous country, and passing by the spot where Jacob -saw angels ascending and descending, “in the vision of God,” and Beer, -supposed to be the Michmas of the Scriptures, to which Jonathan fled -from the revenge of his brother Abimelech, arrived at the summit of a -hill, whence Rama, anciently Gibeah of Saul, the plain of Jericho, the -mountains of Gilead, and Jerusalem itself were visible in one magnificent -panorama. - -Being in the Holy City, which no man, whether believer or unbeliever, can -visit without the most profound emotion, Maundrell enjoyed unrestrainedly -the romantic delight of living where Christ had lived and died, which to -a high-minded religious man must be one of the noblest pleasures which -travelling can afford. They resided, during their stay, at the Latin -convent, visiting the various places which are supposed to possess any -interest for pilgrims; such as the church of the Sepulchre, on Mount -Calvary, the grotto of Jeremiah, the sepulchres of the kings, and the -other famous places within the precincts or in the vicinity of the city. - -Four days after their arrival they set out in company with about two -thousand pilgrims of both sexes and of all nations, conducted by the -mosselim, or governor of the city, to visit the river Jordan. Going -out of the city by the gate of St. Stephen, they crossed the valley of -Jehoshaphat, with part of Mount Olivet, passed through Bethany, and -arrived at that mountain wilderness to which Christ was taken forth to -be tempted by the Devil. Here some terrible convulsion of nature appears -to have shattered and rent in pieces the foundations of the everlasting -hills, swallowing up the summits, and thrusting up in their stead the -bases and substructions, as it were, of the mighty masses. In the depths -of a valley which traversed this “land of desolation, waste and wild,” -were discovered the ruins of numerous cottages and hermits’ cells, -many ascetics having formerly retired to this dreary region to waste -away their lives in solitary penance. From the top of this mountain, -however, the travellers enjoyed a prospect of extraordinary diversity, -comprehending the mountains of Arabia, the Dead Sea, and the Plain of -Jericho, into the last of which they descended in about five hours from -the time of their leaving Jerusalem. - -In this plain they saw the fountain of Elisha, shaded by a -broad-spreading tree. Jericho itself had dwindled into a small wretched -village, inhabited by Arabs; and the plain beyond it, extending to the -Jordan, appeared to be blasted by the breath of sterility, producing -nothing but a species of samphire, and similar stunted marine plants. -Here and there, where thin sheets of water, now evaporated by the rays of -the sun, had formerly spread themselves over the marshy soil, a saline -efflorescence, white and glittering like a crust of snow, met the eye; -and the whole valley of the Jordan, all the way to the Dead Sea, appeared -to be impregnated with that mineral. They found this celebrated river, -which in old times overflowed its banks, to be a small stream not above -twenty yards in breadth, which, to borrow the words of the traveller, -seemed to have forgotten its former greatness, there being no sign or -probability of its rising, though the time, the 30th of March, was the -proper season of the inundation. On the contrary, its waters ran at -least two yards below the brink of its channel. - -Proceeding onwards towards the Dead Sea, they passed over an undulating -plain, in some places rising into hillocks, resembling those places in -England where there have formerly been limekilns, and which may possibly -have been the scene of the overthrow of the kings of Sodom and Gomorrah -recorded in Genesis. On approaching the Dead Sea, they observed that on -the east and west it was hemmed in by mountains of vast height, between -whose barren ridges it stretched away, like a prodigious canal, farther -than the eye could reach towards the south. On the north its limpid and -transparent waters rattled along a bed of black pebbles, which being held -over the flame of a candle quickly kindle, and, without being consumed, -emit a black smoke of intolerable stench. Immense quantities of similar -stones are said to be found in the sulphureous hills bordering upon -the lake. None of the bitumen which the waves of this sea occasionally -disgorge was then to be found, although it was reported that both on the -eastern and western shores it might be gathered in great abundance at the -foot of the mountains. The structures of fable with which tradition and -“superstitious idle-headed Eld” had surrounded this famous sea vanished, -like the false waters of the desert, upon examination. No malignant -vapours ascended from the surface of the waves, carrying death to the -birds which might attempt to fly over it. On the contrary, several birds -amused themselves in hovering about and over the sea, and the shells of -fish were found among the pebbles on the shore. Those apples of Sodom -which, “atra et inania velut in cinerem vanescunt,” according to the -expression of Tacitus, for a thousand years have furnished poets with -comparisons and similes, were found, like many other beautiful things, -to flourish only in song; there being in the neighbourhood of the lake -no trees upon which they could grow. The surprising force of the water, -which according to the great historian of Rome sustained the weight even -of those who had not learned to buoy themselves up by art, was in a great -measure found to exist, and subsequent experiments appear to support the -opinion. - -Returning thence to Jerusalem, and visiting Bethlehem and the other holy -places in its vicinity, they at length departed on the 15th of April -for Nazareth, which they found to be an inconsiderable village on the -summit of a hill. Their road then lay through their former track until -they struck off to the right through a defile of Mount Lebanon, entered -the valley of Bocat, and emerged through a gorge of Anti-Libanus into -the plain of Damascus, which, watered by “Abana and Pharphar, lucid -streams,” unfolded itself before the eye in all that voluptuous beauty -glittering in a transparent atmosphere which intoxicated the soul of -the Arabian prophet, and caused him to pronounce it too generative of -delight. The somewhat colder imagination of Maundrell was strongly moved -by the view of this incomparable landscape. The City of the Sun (for such -is the signification of its oriental name) lifted up its gilded domes, -slender minarets, and tapering kiosks amid a forest of deep verdure; -while gardens luxuriant in beauty, and wafting gales of the richest -fragrance through the air, covered the plain for thirty miles around the -city. The interior of the city was greatly inferior to its environs, and -disappointed the traveller. - -From Damascus, where they saw the Syrian caravan, commanded by the Pasha -of Tripoli, and consisting of an army of pilgrims mounted on camels and -quaintly-caparisoned horses, depart for Mecca, they proceeded to Baalbec, -where they arrived on the 5th of May. The magnificent ruins of this city -were then far less dilapidated than they are at present, and called forth -a corresponding degree of admiration from the travellers. The site -of Baalbec, on the cool side of a valley, between two lofty ridges of -mountains, is highly salubrious and beautiful; and the creations of art -which formerly adorned it were no way inferior (and this is the highest -praise the works of man can receive!) to the beauties which nature -eternally reproduces in those delicious regions. Time and the Ottomans, -however, have shown that they are less durable. - -When a place affords nothing for the contemplation of curiosity but -the wrecks of former ages, it usually detains the footsteps of the -traveller but a short time; and accordingly Maundrell and his companions -quitted Baalbec early next morning, and, penetrating through the snowy -defiles of Mount Lebanon into the maritime plains of Syria, arrived in -two days at Tripoli. From hence, on the 9th of May, Maundrell departed -with a guide to visit the famous cedars so frequently alluded to in the -Scriptures, and which, from the prodigious longevity of the tree, may -be those which the poets and prophets of Israel viewed with so much -admiration. The extreme brevity of the original narrative permits us to -describe this excursion in the traveller’s own words:—“Having gone for -three hours across the plain of Tripoli, I arrived,” says he, “at the -foot of Libanus; and from thence continually ascending, not without great -fatigue, came in four hours and a half to a small village called Eden, -and in two hours and a half more to the cedars. - -“These noble trees grow among the snow, near the highest part of Lebanon, -and are remarkable as well for their own age and largeness as for those -frequent allusions made to them in the Word of God. Here are some of them -very old and of a prodigious bulk, and others younger of a smaller size. -Of the former I could reckon up only sixteen, and the latter are very -numerous. I measured one of the largest, and found it twelve yards six -inches in girth, and yet sound, and thirty-seven yards in the spread of -its boughs. At about five or six yards from the ground it was divided -into five limbs, each of which was equal to a great tree.” - -Descending the mountain, and rejoining his friends at Tripoli, they -departed thence together; and returning by the same road which they -had pursued in their journey to Jerusalem, they arrived in a few days -at Aleppo without accident or peril. Such is the history of that brief -excursion, which, being ably and honestly described, has justly ranked -Maundrell among celebrated travellers. The date of his death I have been -unable to discover. This journey has been translated into several modern -languages, and is held in no less estimation abroad than at home. - - -END OF VOL. I. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED -TRAVELLERS, VOL. I. 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