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If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Sketches in Egypt - -Author: Charles Dana Gibson - -Release Date: July 19, 2022 [eBook #68568] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Chuck Greif (This file was produced from images available - at Google Books) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES IN EGYPT *** - - - - - - Sketches in Egypt - - Written and illustrated by - - Charles Dana Gibson - - [Illustration: colophon] - - New York - - Doubleday & McClure Co. - - 1899 - - Copyright, 1899, by - S. S. McCLURE Co. - - Copyright, 1899, by - DOUBLEDAY & MCCLURE Co. - -[Illustration] - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - - PAGE - -British Influence Frontispiece - -Indifference xi - -A Son of the Desert 3 - -A Peddler 5 - -The Slipper Bazaar, Cairo, January 22, 1898 7 - -Egyptian High Life 9 - -The Present Situation 12 - -A Dealer in Antiquities 13 - -The Bridge 14 - -A Village on the Road to the Pyramids 14 - -In the Fish-Market 15 - -Rameses the Great 17 - -At Lady Grenfell’s Masquerade Ball--on the eve of Kitchener’s - departure for the Soudan 20 - -A Descendant of the Prophet--El Saied Ahmad Abdel Khalek -Affandi, Sheik el Sadat 22 - -A Bargain in the Ghezireh Gardens 23 - -A Dancing-Girl 25 - -A Daughter of the Nile 27 - -On the Road to Cairo 31 - -Our Christmas Dinner, Esneh, December 23 35 - -Karnak, January 2, 1898 37 - -Salem Ghesiri, Dragoman 39 - -A Karnak Beggar 40 - -Ali, the Pilot 42 - -Statue of Thothmes, Karnak 43 - -Lunching in Karnak 45 - -An Assiût Donkey 47 - -Temple of Ti 50 - -Tombs of the Kings, Thebes 51 - -A Guardian of the Temple 53 - -“Most of the day was spent with Baedeker” 55 - -Christmas, 1897 59 - -Guardians of the Temple 61 - -Christmas Night-“Auld Lang Syne” 63 - -Thebes, January 2, 1898 67 - -Some Visitors 71 - -Vignette 74 - -His Highness Prince Mahomet Ali, Cairo, February 14, 1898 76 - -On the Bank 77 - -Shopping 79 - -Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo 81 - -A Luxor Dancing-Girl 83 - -Camel-Back 85 - -The Sheik of the Pyramids 88 - -On Grenfell Hill The Keeper of the Tomb, Assuan, - December 29, 1897 89 - -At the Races, Khedival Sporting Club 94 - -An Assuan Beggar 95 - -An Artist in the Mouskie 97 - -Our Bisharin Friends, Assuan 100 - -Beni-Hassan 101 - -At Philæ 104 - -“As good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law allows” 105 - -“The man who has ‘been there before’” 110 - -In a Coffee-House, Cairo 111 - -At Komombos 115 - - - - -SKETCHES IN EGYPT - -C. D. GIBSON - - - - -CHAPTER FIRST - -[Illustration: A Son of the Desert.] - -EGYPT has sat for her likeness longer than any other country. Nothing -disturbs her composure. Financial ruin may stare her in the face, armies -may come and go, but each year the Nile rises and spreads out over her, -and all traces of disturbances are gone. - -Newspapers may be busy telling of her troubles, but very few of those -troubles seem to affect her expression. The stockholders in London -worry, and send out more Englishmen to look after their interests. -Sugar-factories are inspected, and the barrage is doctored. But it is -all very quietly done. - -The French cabinet may resign on account of her, and the English army -may be increased for her sake, but few signs of these compliments does -she show. All is tranquil. The only disturbance seems to be made by the -dragomans who meet you at the station. - -Important events follow each other so closely in Egypt that a year-old -guide-book is several chapters too short. Last year it was Kitchener’s -campaign against the dervishes, and now the French are threatening to -interfere with England’s march to the Cape. The dragoman is sometimes as -satisfactory as the guide-book, and it is often pleasant to find how -soon he is through with his recitation and you are allowed to go alone -among the great temples. Earthquakes have shaken some in orderly ruin, -as if the unseen hands of the men who built them were quietly and slowly -building them up again. - -[Illustration: A Peddler.] - -But there is a temptation to grow sentimental over Egypt. It is far more -cheerful than it sounds. It is happy and a place for a holiday--a -country to make sketches in. These were made between December, 1897, and -March, 1898, and I have been asked to help them tell their story of that -part of Egypt the tourist is most likely to see, where the old and the -new world meet most often. - -The ancient Egyptian artist must have been very happy. Temples were -built with great smooth walls for him to cover with pictures that -required very little writing to go with them, seldom more than Pharaoh’s -cartouches, and even these he made more like a picture than a name. That -must have been very pleasant, and it should have compensated him for -all the restrictions imposed upon him by the high priest of those days, -who often limited his choice of subject to a king. The choice of subject -is now unlimited. There never were so many different kinds of people in -Egypt before. But it would be difficult to draw the king now, for there -is much difference of opinion as to who he is. - -I left New York with a small library of Egyptian guide-books, and in -nearly every one of them was a good description of a traveler’s feelings -upon arriving at Alexandria or Port Saïd. I have been in both places, -and about the same sensations will fit either port; and traveling is too -personal a matter to describe at length, unless it is done with skill. -To give advice is much more simple; and mine is that if you are on a -steamer that is going through the Canal, don’t stay on her until she -gets to Ismailia, but disembark at Port Saïd and get to Cairo that night -all the way by - -[Illustration: The Slipper Bazaar, Cairo, January 22, 1898.] - -[Illustration: Egyptian High Life.] - -rail. You will see as much of the Canal as you want to, and you will not -run the chance of being delayed a day, as the _Königin Luise_ was last -year by a little tramp steamer that had run foul of a coal-barge. - -More advice is to look out of the right-hand window of the car for a -first glimpse of the pyramids, the first sure proof that you are in -Napoleon’s Egypt. After they are once found, it is easy for your eye to -follow them through palm-trees and over mud villages until darkness -interferes. Then you come to the station in Cairo, a hotbed of porters -and dragomans, and through the confusion you finally reach Shepheard’s, -on the street like a great show-window--all but the plate glass--full of -odds and ends from all the world. New arrivals are handed in by the -dragomans and porters. It is as if you climbed over the footlights to -assist in the performance. You finally stand before the good-looking Mr. -Bailer, at the back of the stage. If he thinks you will stand a room -overlooking the stable-yard, you will get it. The next morning I moved -to the sunny side, overlooking the garden, where a tame pelican walked -among tall palm-trees. - -The dragoman who first lays hands on you claims you for his own. You -will find him waiting for you in the morning. He will sell you antiques, -will take you snipe-shooting. He knows when the dervishes will howl or -whirl, or where there is a native wedding, to which he will take you. It -may be the fame of Shepheard’s, or the magic name of Egypt, but it all -has a wonderful charm. - -[Illustration: The Present Situation.] - -[Illustration: A Dealer in Antiquities.] - -The remains of Rameses and Seti are lying on their backs out in the -Gizeh Museum, and there is a strong desire to hurry to them, in spite of -the fact that they will keep. But the panorama in front of Shepheard’s -is absorbing, and your first morning will most likely be spent in -watching it. - -My first afternoon was spent with an evil-eyed dragoman whose pockets -were filled with dirty cards and letters, all testimonials from former -customers proving that he was, as he continually told me, the best -dragoman in the business. He could recite some of - -[Illustration: The Bridge.] - -“Mother Goose,” but knew very little English besides. With him I drove -through streets that might have been in Paris, and by barracks and -sentries that might have been in London, to a river that could only be - -[Illustration: A Village on the Road to the Pyramids.] - -[Illustration: In the Fish-Market.] - -in Egypt. My carriage went between the two bronze lions and joined in -the procession of camels across the bridge over the famous river to the -Gizeh side, where tall trees meet overhead; then to a smaller bridge, -more trees, quaint shipping, and a stucco palace, once a harem where -some of Ismail’s wives lived, and now a museum, the temporary -resting-place of those uneasy mummied heads that once wore Egypt’s -crown; small mouse-colored - -[Illustration: Rameses the Great.] - -donkeys on all sides, and, streaking in among them, tall camels; then -seven more miles of trees and a good causeway to the pyramids. Since -then I have gone over the road many times, and I am of the opinion that -the Nile’s valley would make an ideal “happy hunting-ground,” to which -all good tourists might go when cruel waves have ceased to toss them and -their hotel lives are over. - -All too soon you must go hack to Cairo, where the Bedouin ceases to be -the proud son of the desert and becomes a peddler, where sheep become -mutton and clover is only fodder. But Cairo is about what the tourist -expects of it and what the hotel proprietor thinks you want. He fills -the halls of his hotel with gaily painted columns, and on each side of -the staircase are gaudy figures; and for those tourists who take their -Egypt between the slipper bazaar and the fish-market it may do. - -[Illustration: At Lady Grenfell’s Masquerade Ball--on the eve of -Kitchener’s departure for the Soudan.] - -The Gizeh side of the river is more restful, with its ferry to Bulak, -its gardens, and its khedival sporting club, which is Egypt as England -would have it--polo twice a week, croquet and rackets, a grand stand, -and a steeplechase course; and the same men who play polo spend their -mornings on the desert, teaching their troops to form hollow squares -against the day they will have to meet the dervishes. - -You should choose your own Cairo. If you leave it to a dragoman you will -get mostly howling dervishes and mosques; and if you leave it to a -donkey-boy, there is no telling where he will take you--most likely to -the fish-market. But with a guide-book and a bicycle you will miss very -little that lies between the citadel and the pyramids. Cairo is not all -hotel life, and bazaars lining narrow streets like open fireplaces, -filled with putty-faced Turks as watchful as the brown buzzards that fly -overhead; there are streets - -[Illustration: A Descendant of the Prophet--El Saied Ahmad Abdel Khalek -Affandi, Sheik el Sadat.] - -that are difficult to find, leading to forgotten courtyards with great -trees standing in the middle of them, latticed windows bulging out over -uneven pavements below, where black and gray crows waddle about. In such -a - -[Illustration: A Bargain in the Ghezireh Gardens.] - -[Illustration: A Dancing-Girl.] - -place sits the neglected Sheik el Sadat, a lineal descendant of the -prophet. Through a doorway, in one corner of a tiled room, stands the -gold-mounted saddle on which his ancestors once proudly rode. That was -long before the days of the Suez Canal, boulevards, stucco palaces, and -the opera-house. At court the sheik is no longer the fashion, but there -is still a little band of Mohammedans who believe in him. To them the -sheik and his old house are sacred. Through the thirty days of Ramadan -they sat and howled in his courtyard, and respectfully kissed his hand; -and, like the sheik, there must be many other distinguished Oriental -relics of the days gone by, left behind by the former tenants, and of no -use to the present occupants. - -In Egypt the English hold the reins, and one of these days the Egyptian -donkey may turn to the left when you meet him, as his distant relative -in Whitechapel does. At present he keeps to the right, and staggers -along under a load that is much too big for him. To-day he is not the -fashion in Cairo. He is only ridden by tourists after dark, through -streets that are too narrow and crooked for a carriage. But up the river -it is very different. There you learn to like him. From his back you -first see Karnak, and the statues of Memnon, and he is forever -associated in your memory with the tombs of the kings. Tourists quarrel -over him, and in most cases his name is “Rameses, the Great.” His chief -complaint must be that an Englishman weighs more than an Egyptian; but -he should consider - -[Illustration: A Daughter of the Nile.] - -how much better off the Egyptian is since the English have held the -reins. He will only know of this from his own observation, and from what -he hears the English say. He will never get it from a Frenchman; and the -Egyptian, who could tell him, is sulky, and stupidly wishes that he had -been rescued by some one else. The half-breed Jew and Turk in the -“Mooskee” is too busy; and all the rest of Egypt don’t know why they are -better off, or who to thank for law and order or the improved irrigation -that gives them a fair chance with the rest of civilized mankind. But -whether the donkey knows it or not, he is much hotter off, for an -Englishman never rides him when he is old and weak, and that is more -than he can expect from his Egyptian friends, who often get on him two -at a time. - -At Shepheard’s people put aside their guide-books for a while. It is a -play that requires no libretto. On the crowded piazza overlooking the -street, London shopkeepers and foreign noblemen elbow each other, and -all celebrities look very much alike. - -Cairo is the foyer of Egypt. To go to Egypt and not go up the Nile is -very much like standing outside of a theater and watching the audience -go in, and then waiting until they come out, to glean from their -conversation some idea of the play. But the tourists who go up the river -see the drama of Egypt with all its wonderful scenery, and they feel far -superior to those who waited for them at Shepheard’s. After one month -on the river, it is with a very different feeling they come back to the -museum at Gizeh and look on the face of Seti and his distinguished son, -whom they have tracked from Sakkara to Philæ and back to their tombs in -the sun-baked valley at Thebes, where they had hoped to rest in peace, -surrounded by all that a first-class mummy requires during its long -wait. - -[Illustration: On the Road to Cairo.] - - - - -CHAPTER SECOND - -[Illustration: On the Bank at Komombos.] - - - - -CHAPTER SECOND - -[Illustration: Our Christmas Dinner, Esneh, December 23.] - - -SOME Egypt-bound tourists decide to go up the Nile before they buy their -tickets at the company’s office in Bowling Green. Others, if they are -good sailors, make up their minds before they reach Naples. Some are ill -all the way to Port Saïd, and don’t cave. But most travelers are pretty -sure to decide one way or the other soon after Mount Etna has been left -behind, for the East begins for most people from that moment. If the -guide-books fail to persuade you, there is pretty sure to be a -fellow-passenger who will. The man who has once seen Upper Egypt does -his best to make you dissatisfied with Lower Egypt. He can easily show -you that your journey’s end is not Cairo, but, at the very least, the -first cataract. This is the shortest distance he will listen to. And -after he has your promise to go that far, he tells you of the wonders -that can only be seen by going on to the second cataract. - -My fellow-passenger was an old traveler. Others besides myself fell -under the spell of his eloquence; so, before we had been at Shepheard’s -a week, we were a party of six, with the steam-dahabiyeh _Nitocris_ -chartered for a month, beginning December 12. There were growing plants, -rugs, and a piano on her deck, and six state-rooms below. Salem Ghesiri -was our dragoman. He spoke - -[Illustration: Karnak, January 2, 1898.] - -good English, and knew the river by heart. Before we left, a few days -were spent in buying cork hats and sun umbrellas, and by ten o’clock on -the morning of the 12th the crew had unloaded the trucks that had -brought our belongings down from Shepheard’s, and we had started, with -the wind and the current so strong against us that it was all we could -do to make six miles an hour against them. - -On our left were the mud houses of Old Cairo, with ancient quarries in -the distance, and on the right, far beyond a forest of slanting masts -that belonged to the picturesque ships which lined the bank, were the -tops of the pyramids that we were leaving for a month. As evening -approached, the - -[Illustration: Salem Ghesiri Dragoman.] - -right bank seemed peopled with silhouettes of camels, donkeys, and men, -while the figures on the opposite bank were rose-color. To us the day -was cool, but to the crew it must have been cold, for their heads were -wrapped in shawls and they huddled together in groups about the deck. -The awning over us had been removed, and Ali, the pilot, looked like a -partly unwrapped mummy as he sat at the wheel. - -Those who go up the river in a dahabiyeh like to feel that they are in -the same boat with the travelers whose books they read from New York to -Port Saïd. This would be a very pleasant feeling, if it did not suggest -the responsibility of keeping a record of days that, from all accounts, -are sure to be of so much importance. There is a - -[Illustration: A Karnak Beggar.] - -[Illustration: All, the Pilot.] - -sentimental belief that each day on the river is to be of the greatest -importance, just as if thousands of tourists on Cook’s steamers were not -taking the same journey each year. So overpowering becomes this delusion -that even letters home seem to take the form of historic biographies, -and sound like messages that are sometimes found floating in bottles -thrown overboard by shipwrecked people. The Nile itself seems to insist -that all mention of it should be made in the form of a diary, for, with -very few exceptions, all accounts adopt that mode of expression when -they come to it. Cairo and - -[Illustration: Statue of Thothmes, Karnak.] - -Upper Egypt may be treated in the form of essays, but the endless -parallel banks of the river immediately suggest that all days will be -very much alike and lose their identity, unless they are numbered and -described. It seems to be of the greatest importance to find the best -way to spell the name of the mud village where you tie up for the night -(which name most of the guide-books spell differently)--as if it made -any difference to the people at home. - -But the diaries on the _Nitocris_ during that month were very -conscientious and particular about these small things, and I think they -will all agree in their spelling, for each one of us waited until all -the others had agreed upon the most popular way to spell the names of -these various landmarks before we wrote them down. - -We soon made friends with our crew. There were sixteen of them. They -were - -[Illustration: Lunching in Karnak.] - -[Illustration: An Assiût Donkey.] - -from every part of Egypt, and of all colors, shading from the engineer, -who was a cream-colored Turk,--when his face was washed,--to Ali, who -must have been a Sudanese. Our head steward was almost as black, and the -second steward was another of the cream-colored variety. We seldom saw -the cook. Sometimes he would put his head and shoulders out of the -hatchway, with his arms on the deck, and then we could see that he was a -little, white-faced Turk with a large black mustache. - -Salem was a Syrian Christian, and he had lost all his earnings in an -unprofitable exhibit at the World’s Fair in Chicago. His costumes were -always elaborate, and he was very ornamental, with his silk sashes and -fancy turbans. He superintended our meals, and always suggested the next -day’s program during dinner; so with our coffee we would read aloud -Charles Dudley Warner’s and Miss Edwards’s opinions of our next -stopping-place. - -After our first dinner we tied to the bank, by a little village, Salem -said, just big enough to have a name. It was-dark, and we could hear and -see nothing; so we took his word for it. - -We were off early the next morning, and all that day the river’s banks -were fringed with sugar-cane and sakiehs. The many boats we passed were -loaded with natives, sometimes perched upon loads of grain, or mixed in -with turkeys and cattle. - -[Illustration: Temple of Ti.] - -[Illustration: Tombs of the Kings, Thebes.] - -On December 14 we made our first landing, and had our first donkey ride, -at Beni-Hassan, one hundred and seventy-one miles from Cairo. The -Egyptian policemen who accompanied us to the tombs were out of keeping -with the peaceful look of the place, and only succeeded in keeping at a -distance the children, who were very pretty. - -From the cliffs back of the village we had our first view of the valley -of the Nile, with its delicate green fields, beginning immediately at -the foot of the sun-baked hills on which we stood. I rode back before -the rest to make a sketch; but the arrival of the post-boat put an end -to that, and its passengers soon had our donkeys, beggars, naked -children, policemen, and all, and were taking them back to - -[Illustration: A Guardian of the Temple.] - -the tombs we had just left. The post-boat was to us what the foot-prints -in the sand must have been to Robinson Crusoe. Our frame of mind -underwent a change. We finally became reconciled to the fact that we -were not doing anything uncommon, and from that moment our diaries -suffered. Then the most contagious of all Nile ambitions seized us, and -our one desire was to find a mummy. - -Most of the 15th was spent with Baedeker, preparing for Assiût, where we -were to tie up for the night. - -After an early breakfast, we climbed the bank, and found that it was -chiefly inhabited by beggars. We visited the tombs, and came back to the -dahabiyeh by way of the bazaars, where the natives were dyeing the -dark-blue cloth which they all dress in. That afternoon we came upon an -army of pelicans on a mud flat in the middle of the river. At the sound -of our whistle they got up, and we - -[Illustration: “Most of the day was spent with Baedeker.”] - -lost them far ahead in the twilight, and we thought of that tame pelican -that waddles about in Shepheard’s stable-yard. - -The next day we went by mud villages at the foot of high mountains of -white limestone, until we stopped at Farshut for coal, and tried to -awaken some sign of friendliness in the natives, who were as dull as the -mud banks on which they sat. - -On the afternoon of the 18th we reached Keneh, and in fifteen minutes we -were on donkeys, going by villages filled with children and barking -dogs, on our way to the temple of Dendera. This was to be our first big -temple, and Salem had made it his chief excuse for hurrying us away from -Beni-Hassan, Assiût, and the rest. Our donkeys raced along the edge of -an empty canal, through herds of goats and buffalo, until we saw a low -pile of stones in the distance, and then we reached the half-buried -temple, and lighted candles, and went down into it and looked up at the -mighty columns. Salem repeated all that the guide-books knew, and then -took us around to the back wall and showed us the famous likeness of -Cleopatra and her son Cæsarion. - -Salem was pleased with the way we took our first temple, and rewarded us -by saying it was only the beginning of what was to come. We complimented -him on his choice of subjects, blew out our candles, picked the -candle-grease from our fingers, and reached the dahabiyeh by sundown. - -By one o’clock, on December 19, we were abreast of the promised Karnak, -and could see the top of its pylons and obelisk. We had saved most of -our enthusiasm for this place, and we were anxious to get ashore and -expend it; reluctantly we went by it a few miles to Luxor for a better -landing, where we were watched by a bank-load of natives until four -o’clock. Then we walked through them to the village and temple of Luxor, -which - -[Illustration: Christmas, 1897.] - -[Illustration: Guardians of the Temple.] - -served as a curtain-raiser to the next day’s visit to the greatest of -all temples. - -That evening a Cook’s steamer arrived, and we were deserted by the crowd -on the bank. After dinner Ghesiri entertained the sheiks of the -donkey-boys and made arrangements for our mounts for the next day. Two -of us volunteered to go to the village and locate the dancing that the -guide-books said could be found here, but we learned there was to be -none until the following Saturday. - -The next day was spent at Karnak, where Ghesiri led us over its famous -stones, until lunch was brought from the _Nitocris_, and served in a -colonnade surrounded by columns resembling huge granite lozenges, piled -at all angles, one on top of the other, like ancient friends, those who -had fought successfully with time supporting those who had been less -fortunate; and apart from the rest, requiring no support, and with no -friends to be helped, stood the greatest column of them all, the lonely -survivor of the great peristyle court, with its lotus capital, looking -down on all but its lonely rival, an obelisk. It looks as though it had -been polished and placed there the day before, in striking contrast to -its unfortunate mate, which centuries ago gave up battling with -earthquakes and wars, and now lies, a hopeless ruin, at its feet. - -[Illustration: Christmas Night--“Auld Lang Syne.”] - -We spent the next three days at Karnak and Thebes, saving the tombs of -the kings until we should stop again on our way down from Assuan. - -And now the important question was, Where should we spend Christinas? -The better we knew Karnak and Thebes, the more forbidding they had -grown. They were too stiff and formal, and their great rigid Rameses too -depressing for a Christmas. We wanted a cheerful temple, and we found it -at Komombos. - -We left Karnak on the morning of December 24, and spent Christmas eve at -Edfu. That night the deck was entirely housed in by canvas. The crew sat -in a circle back of the smoke-stack, and while they divided the -cigarettes we had bought for them at Luxor, they listened to our “Down -upon the Suwanee River.” - -Christmas morning we came on deck, and found that Ghesiri had -transformed it into a bower of palm-branches, sugar-cane, and oranges. -The crew were all smiles, and when we presented them with the price of a -sheep, they gave us three cheers and a merry Christmas. More cigarettes -were distributed, and shortly after breakfast we started for Komombos. - -There was little in the day to remind a New-Englander of Christmas. In -the lightest clothes, we sat about the deck and watched the villages go -by. It was good to see our old friends the water-wheels and cheerful -sakiehs again. They looked better to us after our somber stay at Karnak. -Early in the afternoon we came to Komombos, the temple we were looking -for, and tied to the river’s bank just below it; and if you must be -traveling on Christmas, there can be no better place to stop. - -At Komombos the never-resting Nile has worked its way to the foot of the -little hill on which the temple is making its last stand - -[Illustration: Thebes, January 2, 1898.] - -against time. Some kind friends have covered the bank with stones, but -the river is slowly wearing them away, and sooner or later it will claim -its own; and it will be a pity, for Komombos’s temple is dainty in -comparison with Karnak, where great stiff Rameses stand with their arms -folded across their breasts in very much the same manner in which the -real arms are held in the glass case at the Gizeh Museum. - -At Karnak there were miles of half-buried walls, and cut deep in them -gigantic figures of Rameses, with one hand raised about to strike off -the heads of enemies done up in bundles like asparagus and held by the -hair of their heads, while armies are shown flying in confusion. The -bas-reliefs at Komombos are more cheerful and cut with greater skill. -They represent the ancient gods of Egypt in their more playful moods, -floating down the Nile, spearing miniature hippopotamuses and -crocodiles, with here and there a triumphant procession. The debris of -the forgotten city that once covered Komombos has been removed, and the -great hall, with its holy of holies now exposed to the light of day, is -swept by the wind as clean as a Dutch kitchen; and yet the carvings are -as fresh as the day they were made. From the _Nitocris_ to the temple -is only a few steps through some sugar-cane. It was a novel experience -to find no donkey-boys with their patient and sleepy donkeys. - -But the natives were different from any we had heretofore seen, and -proved that we were getting into real Africa. They were mostly Nubians, -and very black, and our preconceived idea of what an African should be. - -Komombos and Philæ are the only temples we climbed up to, and it seems -to me that they, above all others, lend themselves more readily to the -sentimental tourist. It is easier for the imagination to people them; -they are more like dwellings. - -[Illustration: Home Visitors.] - -After tea had been brought from the _Nitocris_ and served in its -portals, we all decided that Komombos would be the temple to own. That -evening the crew hung lanterns around the deck among the sugar-canes and -palms, and after dinner they gave an exhibition, which started well -enough with a dance by the first mate. - -Since then I have found that all travelers on the Nile are likely to -have this same experience. We were proof against the “Dhabir Devil” that -the guide-books had warned us against, but Baedeker had made no mention -of the possibility of this entertainment happening to us; still, the -crew went at it as though it was an old story with them, and as I write -this there may be some unsuspecting tourist about to go through with it. -It sounds very good-natured on the part of the crew; and if the -entertainment had stopped when the mate had finished the dance, it would -have been well enough; but the dance was only to hold our attention -while the others were getting ready, and then the dreary horse-play -began. There was a barber-shop scene, in which flour paste was used and -a door-mat acted as a towel. A crew that mutinies is tame compared with -an Egyptian crew that acts. We stopped them as soon as we could without -hurting their feelings, and they subsided and formed a circle back of -the smoke-stack. The rest of the evening was spent in entertainment of -our own choice, and by midnight all was still but the river, which never -rests. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER THREE - -[Illustration: His Highness Prince Mahomet Ali, Cairo, February 14, -1898.] - -[Illustration: On the Bank.] - - - -CHAPTER THIRD - -THE starting of the engines had us up fairly early the next morning, and -we found the country very much changed. The desert now came to the -river’s edge, and granite had taken the place of limestone; it seemed as -though we had come to the end of fertile Egypt. Two white vultures were -the only living things in sight. Then we came to some wonderful bends -in the river, and the sakiehs once more began to dip up the muddy water; -but the skins of the men who worked them had changed: they glistened -like coal in the sunlight. - -By two o’clock we reached Assuan, and moored to the island of -Elephantine, just opposite the town, from which any number of little -bright-painted ferry-boats rowed toward us; and in a few minutes some -thin-legged Egyptian policemen and a few natives were on the bank, and a -small boy with a stick had been selected to mind the turkeys that we had -brought from Esneh. Some of the poor birds were very weak on their legs, -and where they ought to have been red they were only a pale -salmon-color; but the little cook promised that they would be all right -in a day or two. Some of the crew had homes on the island, and they all -put on their best clothes and were met by friends. They immediately -established a laundry on shore, and the building of an oven proved that -we were to be there for some time. - -We began the 27th with a visit to the tombs on Grenfell Hill, high on -the river’s bank, below Elephantine. There was a strong wind, full of -sand, from the south, and the light natives had trouble in getting the -heavy boat to the foot of the hill. The wind helped us back to the -_Nitocris_, and after lunch we crossed the river to Assuan, where the -inhabitants seemed especially prepared for tourists. The natives were -more theatrical in Assuan, and the bazaars were filled with musical -instruments, made as primitive as possible to please the traveler. - -[Illustration: Shopping.] - -There is a railroad at Assuan. It is only a small, disconnected link; -but some day it will be part of a road to the Cape, and vestibule -trains will run over it, and passengers may get only flying glimpses of -Philæ from car windows. Think of being on a train that went by Pharaoh’s -Bed in the night! But it is impossible to believe that the world could -become used to such a wonderful place, and it is to be hoped that all -trains will go slow when they come to Philæ; for without it Egypt would -be like “Romeo and Juliet” without a balcony. It is the most romantic -ruin in Egypt, and it marks the end of the first-cataract tourist’s -journey. - -If the _Nitocris_ had been a sailing-dahabiyeh, and had belonged to us, -and if the season had been younger and the river higher, we would have -had her pulled up one cataract after another until we had made some -important discoveries; but we were one-month tourists on a hired boat, -and that night, while the _Nitocris_ was tied fast to some large wooden -pegs driven deep into the - -[Illustration: Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo.] - -[Illustration: A Luxor Dancing-girl.] - -beach, we read how the _Rip Van Winkle_ and other dahabiyehs had gone to -Abu-Simbel. - -The next morning we chose the nine-o’clock train, in preference to -camels and donkeys; and after some minutes of rocking and twisting in -the little box-car, we were ferried from the mainland to the famous -island, where we were to forget Komombos and all the others amid new -beauties, which no guide-book can exaggerate. - -After lunch we walked to the northern end of the island, hoarded a big, -clumsy, eight-oared boat with a great deal of rigging lashed overhead, -and our homeward journey began. There was a crew of ten, and we soon had -the greatest respect for their skill, especially one little man with -crooked teeth, who sat in the stern and shouted over our heads at the -men in the boat. - -The rapids were tame enough at first. The wind was strong against us, -and we found some shelter behind the high granite islands we drifted -among. The river had worn them into fantastic shapes so closely -resembling temples that hieroglyphics had been cut on the polished -stones by the Pharaohs, who never tired of seeing their names in print. - -At one place we stopped and watched ten or fifteen boys swim and float -down a part of the rapids. They would come shivering up to us, and the -next instant they would be in - -[Illustration: Camel-back.] - -the water shooting by us on a log, screaming to attract our attention, -and then back again to us, with their teeth chattering for bakshish. - -But after that it was very different. The man at the tiller half stood -up, and I could see, by the little patches of sand on his forehead that -the wrinkles there had formed in two parallel lines, that he had been -praying while we had been watching the boys swim, and by the same sign I -could see that most of the crew had been doing the same thing; and -Mohammed must have been with us, for fifty times within half that number -of minutes we needed help. With the little man in the stern continually -wetting his lips and jamming the tiller from side to side, apparently -steering in just the wrong place, and always proving that he was right, -we “shot” over the uneven surface of the river, dodging half-buried -rocks, first near one bank and then the other, until we reached the -natural bed of the - -[Illustration: The Sheik of the Pyramids.] - -river. Here the crew began their battle with the wind, and by evening, -after much chanting and hard rowing on their part, we reached the -_Nitocris_, feeling very much as if our faces had been sandpapered. -During our stay at Elephantine we made friends with four little Bisharin -girls. They were graceful and pretty, and had the power to make the most -dismal tomb cheerful. They followed us to the quarries back of Assuan, -and turned the top of the half-finished obelisk into a stage and danced -in the sunlight, while the blackest man in Africa played an instrument -of his own invention. And the last I remember of Assuan is their - -[Illustration: On Grenfell Hill. The Keeper of the Tomb, Assuan, -December 29, 1897.] - -four little figures wrapped in the brightest-colored shawls that could -be bought in Lower Egypt, and they waving their hands until a bend in -the river hid them. - -It was a novelty to find ourselves going with the current, which had -been until now against us, and we could count on much bigger runs; but -there was double the danger of running on a sand-bar, and from that time -on there was always a man with a pole in the bow. - -On the 30th we stopped beneath our old friend Komombos, and visited Edfu -the next day; and from the top of its pylons we looked into the -mud-walled yards of the town, where little fly-covered children stopped -playing with goats and called to us, even at that height, for bakshish. - -On the 31st we were once more in Luxor, where the donkey-boys and -beggars gave us a hearty welcome. Again we visited Thebes, and were -followed from tomb to tomb by the usual venders of imitation antiques -and shriveled mummy-hands. - -Our trips back from Thebes were always enlivened by donkey-races across -the great fields of young wheat, in the middle of which the great -Memnons sit. Those races generally proved that “Columbus” was a faster -donkey than “New York.” - -Pharaoh must have continually thought of the future. His tombs at Thebes -show how anxious he was to outlast time. And it seems hard that his -carefully prepared plans should have been interfered with. How -impressive it would be to find, at the end of the long subterranean -passage, the king whose one wish had been to lie there. He must have -visited it often before his death. He might have superintended its -building and criticized the drawings that decorate its walls. But the -sarcophagus is now empty, and its lid is broken, and the king’s new -friends have put him in a cheap wooden house; and written - -[Illustration: At the Races, Khedival Sporting Club.] - -[Illustration: An Assuan Beggar.] - -on a piece of cardboard, and tacked on the glass case in which he now -lies, is the name he was so fond of cutting in granite. - -One year more or less makes very little difference to Egypt, but the New -Year was properly welcomed aboard the _Nitocris_, for one of us had -never seen a January 1 before. So it happened that, even in Egypt, the -occasion was treated as a novelty, and the _Nitocris_ once more -blossomed out with lanterns, and looked as well that night as her more -graceful rivals, the sailing-dahabiyehs, that were anchored above and -below us. - -January 4 was our last day at Luxor. We had ridden up the limestone -valley at Thebes to the tombs of the kings, had spent several days and a -moonlight night at Karnak. We had said good-by to our donkey-boys. Mine -had held an umbrella over me with one hand and had fought natives at the -same time with the other, and I hope that some day he will be a -dragoman. Before daylight on the 5th we had once more started north, -with only five more days on the river left to us. At night we tied to -the bank and walked through moon-lighted villages, and did our best to -imagine that our journey had only just begun. - -On the evening of the 7th an extraordinary thing happened. It rained -hard enough to make a noise on the awning over us, and in the excitement -we almost forgot that there were only three more days between us and -Cairo. We had begun to count the hours and to dread that fatal bend in -the river that would show us the pyramids at Sakkara, where we were to -spend our last night. We passed dahabiyehs with American and English -flags flying over them, and we were filled with - -[Illustration: An Artist in the Mouskie.] - -envy. Handkerchiefs and parasols were sympathetically waved at us, and -at a distance we may have looked cheerful; but it was a forlorn, -childish feeling to be taken home because our time was up and our -dahabiyeh had another engagement. We felt that all the other boats knew -our secret, and we even suspected the crew of having become tired of us -and only remaining civil in order to collect the present that they were -expecting. - -Ghesiri’s suggestion that we spend the night of the 10th at Cairo seemed -to prove that they were anxious to have done with us; but we had no -inclination to be tied to the bank at Cairo overnight, waiting to be -sent away in the morning before a crowd of natives, and among them, -possibly, those other people who had chartered our boat. We would wait -at Sakkara, and not get to Cairo one minute before our time was up. - -On the 8th we visited a sugar-factory at - -[Illustration: Our Bisharin Friends, Assuan.] - -Tel-el-Amarna, and later on the same day passed our first landing-place, -Beni-Hassan. - -By noon on the 9th we reached the fatal bend in the river and saw that -we were once more in the land of pyramids, and we were soon tied to the -bank beneath which once stood the city of Memphis. We rode to Marietta’s -House, past the pyramids and the colossal Rameses lying on his back -among tall palms, surrounded, for some reason, by a mud house, as if the -great granite figure had not already proved that it could continue its -battle with time unassisted by a few mud bricks and some tin roofing -that is very much in the way. - -We lighted candles and walked through the hot, suffocating galleries of -the mausoleum, and peered into the huge granite sarcophagi that once -held the mummied sacred bulls. Then we rode to the tomb of Ti, and -Ghesiri’s last lecture was about that gentleman. - -[Illustration: Beni-Hassan.] - -In the distance was Cairo; and even a view of the pyramids at Gizeh and -the citadel failed to console us, and we still mourned our late month on -the Nile. We took our last donkey-ride through the palms that now grow -where Memphis once stood, and reached the _Nitocris_ by sundown. - -By midday on the 10th, we shook hands with the crew and left the -_Nitocris_ tied to the bank where we had first found her, just as though -nothing had happened; and, after all, what had happened was this: six -more tourists had gone to the first cataract and back, and a few more -Egyptian sketches had been made. For us the performance of the Nile was -at an end, and we were once more in the streets on our way to the -Ghezireh Hotel, with a determination to console ourselves with Cairo, -which now looked to us, after our stay in the country, like a full-grown -European capital. - -By January 10 the season had commenced - -[Illustration: At Philæ.] - -and the prices of rooms had doubled. Since we left, several steamers -from the west had brought an army of tourists, who were turning Africa -into New York, London, and Paris. And at the Casino, in the Ghezireh -Gardens, was as good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law allows, but -such a poor one that even the Frenchmen who worked it seemed ashamed of -themselves, and the New-Yorker who owned it was very seldom seen there. - -[Illustration: “As good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law -allows.”] - -At Shepheard’s there is always the man who has “been there before,” and -like the same man at the play, he sits beside you and interprets the -picture. You finally promise that you will not go to the _monskie_ -without him, and that you will not see the Sphinx by moonlight unless he -is there; for if you do, not having been there before, you will be sure -to go too early or too late. He says the moon should be at just such an -angle and no other. The peddlers in the monskie know him, and while they -entertain him with little cups of sweet tea they complain that they have -had no luck since they last saw him, and they ask eagerly after that -gentleman he brought to them the year before--the gentleman who had such -exquisite taste and backed it up so generously with his money. And you -drink their tea, and feel, as you leave the shops, after having only -looked at their things, that they will never ask affectionately after -you. The man who has been there before generally walks in front of you, -as if he were not as anxious to have you see the place as he is to have -you see that he knows his way about; and, after all, it is no small -thing to be proud of. If I ever go to the mouskie again, I shall pity -the greenhorn who happens to be with me. - -The bazaars are dirty, and so many pasty-faced Turks squatting about in -the filth grow tiresome. At first they are described in letters home as -fascinating and picturesque, and whole days are spent with them, buying -hundreds of things that are destined to be left in hotel bureau drawers -and gradually lost. The souvenirs we buy in the mouskie seem to melt -away. The precious stones we bought there turn to glass, the slippers -become pasteboard, the gilt things tarnish, and the brass-work bends -itself into old junk, and the mouskie is only a confused dream; so no -wonder the old traveler is proud that he can actually find his - -[Illustration: “The man who has ‘been there before.’”] - -[Illustration: In a Coffee-house, Cairo.] - -way about in it. He had probably begun to think that there never had -been such a place. - -But Egypt is full of real things, and probably the most genuine thing of -them all is the English occupation. Egypt herself is the best proof of -how necessary to her well-being this is. It is hard to tell just how -unhappy the fellaheen were before the English came. The Egyptian is not -the sort of man that complains. After centuries of oppression, he now -accepts whatever form of government is offered in a browbeaten way, and -shuffles along after his donkey, and pays his tax for bringing a few -bundles of clover across the bridge into Cairo without a murmur; and, -judging by his looks, I doubt if he would make much disturbance if he -found, some morning, that the tax on his clover had been doubled. He -evidently feels like a very small depositor in a broken bank. England is -the largest creditor, and is straightening things out for them both, and -he is satisfied. - -There never were so many cooks trying to spoil a broth. Before a -consul-general is received by the Khedive, the Sultan of Turkey must -first approve of him, and it is said that the Sultan allows months to go -by before he gives his consent, which is his Oriental way of showing his -authority. But Egypt is geographically so important that, in spite of -herself, she will be saved, and with England’s help she will some day -pay her debts, and in centuries to come the fellah may learn to hold his -head up like the Nubian. - -There is no fear of Egypt becoming dull and commonplace, for if the East -and the West should ever fight, it must be for the possession of her -canal; and many an unborn soldier’s reputation will be made before the -railroad that has started up the Nile’s valley reaches Cape Town. The -same land that offers death and reputation to the strong gives life to -the weak, and the tired rich man on his dahabiyeh and the soldier on the -transport go up the Nile side by side, and in most cases they both find -what they are in search of. - -Shepheard’s, in all probability, will forever remain a composite -portrait of Europe and Asia, with Cairo as its frame. Time has made, and -probably will continue to make, some slight alteration in Upper Egypt’s -appearance; but the locomotive’s whistle will have difficulty in -breaking the silence and calm of Karnak and Thebes. And the present -indications are that Egypt will remain true to the Pharaohs of old, and -until the judgment-day she will, in all probability (assisted by the -Nile, who made her), continue to quietly resist the attentions of modern -nations, and patiently wait for that last day. - -[Illustration: At Komombos.] - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES IN EGYPT *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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