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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+
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+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #68568 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68568)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches in Egypt, by Charles Dana
-Gibson
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Sketches in Egypt
-
-Author: Charles Dana Gibson
-
-Release Date: July 19, 2022 [eBook #68568]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Chuck Greif (This file was produced from images available
- at Google Books)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES IN EGYPT ***
-
-
-
-
-
- Sketches in Egypt
-
- Written and illustrated by
-
- Charles Dana Gibson
-
- [Illustration: colophon]
-
- New York
-
- Doubleday & McClure Co.
-
- 1899
-
- Copyright, 1899, by
- S. S. McCLURE Co.
-
- Copyright, 1899, by
- DOUBLEDAY & MCCLURE Co.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
- PAGE
-
-British Influence Frontispiece
-
-Indifference xi
-
-A Son of the Desert 3
-
-A Peddler 5
-
-The Slipper Bazaar, Cairo, January 22, 1898 7
-
-Egyptian High Life 9
-
-The Present Situation 12
-
-A Dealer in Antiquities 13
-
-The Bridge 14
-
-A Village on the Road to the Pyramids 14
-
-In the Fish-Market 15
-
-Rameses the Great 17
-
-At Lady Grenfell’s Masquerade Ball--on the eve of Kitchener’s
- departure for the Soudan 20
-
-A Descendant of the Prophet--El Saied Ahmad Abdel Khalek
-Affandi, Sheik el Sadat 22
-
-A Bargain in the Ghezireh Gardens 23
-
-A Dancing-Girl 25
-
-A Daughter of the Nile 27
-
-On the Road to Cairo 31
-
-Our Christmas Dinner, Esneh, December 23 35
-
-Karnak, January 2, 1898 37
-
-Salem Ghesiri, Dragoman 39
-
-A Karnak Beggar 40
-
-Ali, the Pilot 42
-
-Statue of Thothmes, Karnak 43
-
-Lunching in Karnak 45
-
-An Assiût Donkey 47
-
-Temple of Ti 50
-
-Tombs of the Kings, Thebes 51
-
-A Guardian of the Temple 53
-
-“Most of the day was spent with Baedeker” 55
-
-Christmas, 1897 59
-
-Guardians of the Temple 61
-
-Christmas Night-“Auld Lang Syne” 63
-
-Thebes, January 2, 1898 67
-
-Some Visitors 71
-
-Vignette 74
-
-His Highness Prince Mahomet Ali, Cairo, February 14, 1898 76
-
-On the Bank 77
-
-Shopping 79
-
-Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo 81
-
-A Luxor Dancing-Girl 83
-
-Camel-Back 85
-
-The Sheik of the Pyramids 88
-
-On Grenfell Hill The Keeper of the Tomb, Assuan,
- December 29, 1897 89
-
-At the Races, Khedival Sporting Club 94
-
-An Assuan Beggar 95
-
-An Artist in the Mouskie 97
-
-Our Bisharin Friends, Assuan 100
-
-Beni-Hassan 101
-
-At Philæ 104
-
-“As good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law allows” 105
-
-“The man who has ‘been there before’” 110
-
-In a Coffee-House, Cairo 111
-
-At Komombos 115
-
-
-
-
-SKETCHES IN EGYPT
-
-C. D. GIBSON
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER FIRST
-
-[Illustration: A Son of the Desert.]
-
-EGYPT has sat for her likeness longer than any other country. Nothing
-disturbs her composure. Financial ruin may stare her in the face, armies
-may come and go, but each year the Nile rises and spreads out over her,
-and all traces of disturbances are gone.
-
-Newspapers may be busy telling of her troubles, but very few of those
-troubles seem to affect her expression. The stockholders in London
-worry, and send out more Englishmen to look after their interests.
-Sugar-factories are inspected, and the barrage is doctored. But it is
-all very quietly done.
-
-The French cabinet may resign on account of her, and the English army
-may be increased for her sake, but few signs of these compliments does
-she show. All is tranquil. The only disturbance seems to be made by the
-dragomans who meet you at the station.
-
-Important events follow each other so closely in Egypt that a year-old
-guide-book is several chapters too short. Last year it was Kitchener’s
-campaign against the dervishes, and now the French are threatening to
-interfere with England’s march to the Cape. The dragoman is sometimes as
-satisfactory as the guide-book, and it is often pleasant to find how
-soon he is through with his recitation and you are allowed to go alone
-among the great temples. Earthquakes have shaken some in orderly ruin,
-as if the unseen hands of the men who built them were quietly and slowly
-building them up again.
-
-[Illustration: A Peddler.]
-
-But there is a temptation to grow sentimental over Egypt. It is far more
-cheerful than it sounds. It is happy and a place for a holiday--a
-country to make sketches in. These were made between December, 1897, and
-March, 1898, and I have been asked to help them tell their story of that
-part of Egypt the tourist is most likely to see, where the old and the
-new world meet most often.
-
-The ancient Egyptian artist must have been very happy. Temples were
-built with great smooth walls for him to cover with pictures that
-required very little writing to go with them, seldom more than Pharaoh’s
-cartouches, and even these he made more like a picture than a name. That
-must have been very pleasant, and it should have compensated him for
-all the restrictions imposed upon him by the high priest of those days,
-who often limited his choice of subject to a king. The choice of subject
-is now unlimited. There never were so many different kinds of people in
-Egypt before. But it would be difficult to draw the king now, for there
-is much difference of opinion as to who he is.
-
-I left New York with a small library of Egyptian guide-books, and in
-nearly every one of them was a good description of a traveler’s feelings
-upon arriving at Alexandria or Port Saïd. I have been in both places,
-and about the same sensations will fit either port; and traveling is too
-personal a matter to describe at length, unless it is done with skill.
-To give advice is much more simple; and mine is that if you are on a
-steamer that is going through the Canal, don’t stay on her until she
-gets to Ismailia, but disembark at Port Saïd and get to Cairo that night
-all the way by
-
-[Illustration: The Slipper Bazaar, Cairo, January 22, 1898.]
-
-[Illustration: Egyptian High Life.]
-
-rail. You will see as much of the Canal as you want to, and you will not
-run the chance of being delayed a day, as the _Königin Luise_ was last
-year by a little tramp steamer that had run foul of a coal-barge.
-
-More advice is to look out of the right-hand window of the car for a
-first glimpse of the pyramids, the first sure proof that you are in
-Napoleon’s Egypt. After they are once found, it is easy for your eye to
-follow them through palm-trees and over mud villages until darkness
-interferes. Then you come to the station in Cairo, a hotbed of porters
-and dragomans, and through the confusion you finally reach Shepheard’s,
-on the street like a great show-window--all but the plate glass--full of
-odds and ends from all the world. New arrivals are handed in by the
-dragomans and porters. It is as if you climbed over the footlights to
-assist in the performance. You finally stand before the good-looking Mr.
-Bailer, at the back of the stage. If he thinks you will stand a room
-overlooking the stable-yard, you will get it. The next morning I moved
-to the sunny side, overlooking the garden, where a tame pelican walked
-among tall palm-trees.
-
-The dragoman who first lays hands on you claims you for his own. You
-will find him waiting for you in the morning. He will sell you antiques,
-will take you snipe-shooting. He knows when the dervishes will howl or
-whirl, or where there is a native wedding, to which he will take you. It
-may be the fame of Shepheard’s, or the magic name of Egypt, but it all
-has a wonderful charm.
-
-[Illustration: The Present Situation.]
-
-[Illustration: A Dealer in Antiquities.]
-
-The remains of Rameses and Seti are lying on their backs out in the
-Gizeh Museum, and there is a strong desire to hurry to them, in spite of
-the fact that they will keep. But the panorama in front of Shepheard’s
-is absorbing, and your first morning will most likely be spent in
-watching it.
-
-My first afternoon was spent with an evil-eyed dragoman whose pockets
-were filled with dirty cards and letters, all testimonials from former
-customers proving that he was, as he continually told me, the best
-dragoman in the business. He could recite some of
-
-[Illustration: The Bridge.]
-
-“Mother Goose,” but knew very little English besides. With him I drove
-through streets that might have been in Paris, and by barracks and
-sentries that might have been in London, to a river that could only be
-
-[Illustration: A Village on the Road to the Pyramids.]
-
-[Illustration: In the Fish-Market.]
-
-in Egypt. My carriage went between the two bronze lions and joined in
-the procession of camels across the bridge over the famous river to the
-Gizeh side, where tall trees meet overhead; then to a smaller bridge,
-more trees, quaint shipping, and a stucco palace, once a harem where
-some of Ismail’s wives lived, and now a museum, the temporary
-resting-place of those uneasy mummied heads that once wore Egypt’s
-crown; small mouse-colored
-
-[Illustration: Rameses the Great.]
-
-donkeys on all sides, and, streaking in among them, tall camels; then
-seven more miles of trees and a good causeway to the pyramids. Since
-then I have gone over the road many times, and I am of the opinion that
-the Nile’s valley would make an ideal “happy hunting-ground,” to which
-all good tourists might go when cruel waves have ceased to toss them and
-their hotel lives are over.
-
-All too soon you must go hack to Cairo, where the Bedouin ceases to be
-the proud son of the desert and becomes a peddler, where sheep become
-mutton and clover is only fodder. But Cairo is about what the tourist
-expects of it and what the hotel proprietor thinks you want. He fills
-the halls of his hotel with gaily painted columns, and on each side of
-the staircase are gaudy figures; and for those tourists who take their
-Egypt between the slipper bazaar and the fish-market it may do.
-
-[Illustration: At Lady Grenfell’s Masquerade Ball--on the eve of
-Kitchener’s departure for the Soudan.]
-
-The Gizeh side of the river is more restful, with its ferry to Bulak,
-its gardens, and its khedival sporting club, which is Egypt as England
-would have it--polo twice a week, croquet and rackets, a grand stand,
-and a steeplechase course; and the same men who play polo spend their
-mornings on the desert, teaching their troops to form hollow squares
-against the day they will have to meet the dervishes.
-
-You should choose your own Cairo. If you leave it to a dragoman you will
-get mostly howling dervishes and mosques; and if you leave it to a
-donkey-boy, there is no telling where he will take you--most likely to
-the fish-market. But with a guide-book and a bicycle you will miss very
-little that lies between the citadel and the pyramids. Cairo is not all
-hotel life, and bazaars lining narrow streets like open fireplaces,
-filled with putty-faced Turks as watchful as the brown buzzards that fly
-overhead; there are streets
-
-[Illustration: A Descendant of the Prophet--El Saied Ahmad Abdel Khalek
-Affandi, Sheik el Sadat.]
-
-that are difficult to find, leading to forgotten courtyards with great
-trees standing in the middle of them, latticed windows bulging out over
-uneven pavements below, where black and gray crows waddle about. In such
-a
-
-[Illustration: A Bargain in the Ghezireh Gardens.]
-
-[Illustration: A Dancing-Girl.]
-
-place sits the neglected Sheik el Sadat, a lineal descendant of the
-prophet. Through a doorway, in one corner of a tiled room, stands the
-gold-mounted saddle on which his ancestors once proudly rode. That was
-long before the days of the Suez Canal, boulevards, stucco palaces, and
-the opera-house. At court the sheik is no longer the fashion, but there
-is still a little band of Mohammedans who believe in him. To them the
-sheik and his old house are sacred. Through the thirty days of Ramadan
-they sat and howled in his courtyard, and respectfully kissed his hand;
-and, like the sheik, there must be many other distinguished Oriental
-relics of the days gone by, left behind by the former tenants, and of no
-use to the present occupants.
-
-In Egypt the English hold the reins, and one of these days the Egyptian
-donkey may turn to the left when you meet him, as his distant relative
-in Whitechapel does. At present he keeps to the right, and staggers
-along under a load that is much too big for him. To-day he is not the
-fashion in Cairo. He is only ridden by tourists after dark, through
-streets that are too narrow and crooked for a carriage. But up the river
-it is very different. There you learn to like him. From his back you
-first see Karnak, and the statues of Memnon, and he is forever
-associated in your memory with the tombs of the kings. Tourists quarrel
-over him, and in most cases his name is “Rameses, the Great.” His chief
-complaint must be that an Englishman weighs more than an Egyptian; but
-he should consider
-
-[Illustration: A Daughter of the Nile.]
-
-how much better off the Egyptian is since the English have held the
-reins. He will only know of this from his own observation, and from what
-he hears the English say. He will never get it from a Frenchman; and the
-Egyptian, who could tell him, is sulky, and stupidly wishes that he had
-been rescued by some one else. The half-breed Jew and Turk in the
-“Mooskee” is too busy; and all the rest of Egypt don’t know why they are
-better off, or who to thank for law and order or the improved irrigation
-that gives them a fair chance with the rest of civilized mankind. But
-whether the donkey knows it or not, he is much hotter off, for an
-Englishman never rides him when he is old and weak, and that is more
-than he can expect from his Egyptian friends, who often get on him two
-at a time.
-
-At Shepheard’s people put aside their guide-books for a while. It is a
-play that requires no libretto. On the crowded piazza overlooking the
-street, London shopkeepers and foreign noblemen elbow each other, and
-all celebrities look very much alike.
-
-Cairo is the foyer of Egypt. To go to Egypt and not go up the Nile is
-very much like standing outside of a theater and watching the audience
-go in, and then waiting until they come out, to glean from their
-conversation some idea of the play. But the tourists who go up the river
-see the drama of Egypt with all its wonderful scenery, and they feel far
-superior to those who waited for them at Shepheard’s. After one month
-on the river, it is with a very different feeling they come back to the
-museum at Gizeh and look on the face of Seti and his distinguished son,
-whom they have tracked from Sakkara to Philæ and back to their tombs in
-the sun-baked valley at Thebes, where they had hoped to rest in peace,
-surrounded by all that a first-class mummy requires during its long
-wait.
-
-[Illustration: On the Road to Cairo.]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER SECOND
-
-[Illustration: On the Bank at Komombos.]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER SECOND
-
-[Illustration: Our Christmas Dinner, Esneh, December 23.]
-
-
-SOME Egypt-bound tourists decide to go up the Nile before they buy their
-tickets at the company’s office in Bowling Green. Others, if they are
-good sailors, make up their minds before they reach Naples. Some are ill
-all the way to Port Saïd, and don’t cave. But most travelers are pretty
-sure to decide one way or the other soon after Mount Etna has been left
-behind, for the East begins for most people from that moment. If the
-guide-books fail to persuade you, there is pretty sure to be a
-fellow-passenger who will. The man who has once seen Upper Egypt does
-his best to make you dissatisfied with Lower Egypt. He can easily show
-you that your journey’s end is not Cairo, but, at the very least, the
-first cataract. This is the shortest distance he will listen to. And
-after he has your promise to go that far, he tells you of the wonders
-that can only be seen by going on to the second cataract.
-
-My fellow-passenger was an old traveler. Others besides myself fell
-under the spell of his eloquence; so, before we had been at Shepheard’s
-a week, we were a party of six, with the steam-dahabiyeh _Nitocris_
-chartered for a month, beginning December 12. There were growing plants,
-rugs, and a piano on her deck, and six state-rooms below. Salem Ghesiri
-was our dragoman. He spoke
-
-[Illustration: Karnak, January 2, 1898.]
-
-good English, and knew the river by heart. Before we left, a few days
-were spent in buying cork hats and sun umbrellas, and by ten o’clock on
-the morning of the 12th the crew had unloaded the trucks that had
-brought our belongings down from Shepheard’s, and we had started, with
-the wind and the current so strong against us that it was all we could
-do to make six miles an hour against them.
-
-On our left were the mud houses of Old Cairo, with ancient quarries in
-the distance, and on the right, far beyond a forest of slanting masts
-that belonged to the picturesque ships which lined the bank, were the
-tops of the pyramids that we were leaving for a month. As evening
-approached, the
-
-[Illustration: Salem Ghesiri Dragoman.]
-
-right bank seemed peopled with silhouettes of camels, donkeys, and men,
-while the figures on the opposite bank were rose-color. To us the day
-was cool, but to the crew it must have been cold, for their heads were
-wrapped in shawls and they huddled together in groups about the deck.
-The awning over us had been removed, and Ali, the pilot, looked like a
-partly unwrapped mummy as he sat at the wheel.
-
-Those who go up the river in a dahabiyeh like to feel that they are in
-the same boat with the travelers whose books they read from New York to
-Port Saïd. This would be a very pleasant feeling, if it did not suggest
-the responsibility of keeping a record of days that, from all accounts,
-are sure to be of so much importance. There is a
-
-[Illustration: A Karnak Beggar.]
-
-[Illustration: All, the Pilot.]
-
-sentimental belief that each day on the river is to be of the greatest
-importance, just as if thousands of tourists on Cook’s steamers were not
-taking the same journey each year. So overpowering becomes this delusion
-that even letters home seem to take the form of historic biographies,
-and sound like messages that are sometimes found floating in bottles
-thrown overboard by shipwrecked people. The Nile itself seems to insist
-that all mention of it should be made in the form of a diary, for, with
-very few exceptions, all accounts adopt that mode of expression when
-they come to it. Cairo and
-
-[Illustration: Statue of Thothmes, Karnak.]
-
-Upper Egypt may be treated in the form of essays, but the endless
-parallel banks of the river immediately suggest that all days will be
-very much alike and lose their identity, unless they are numbered and
-described. It seems to be of the greatest importance to find the best
-way to spell the name of the mud village where you tie up for the night
-(which name most of the guide-books spell differently)--as if it made
-any difference to the people at home.
-
-But the diaries on the _Nitocris_ during that month were very
-conscientious and particular about these small things, and I think they
-will all agree in their spelling, for each one of us waited until all
-the others had agreed upon the most popular way to spell the names of
-these various landmarks before we wrote them down.
-
-We soon made friends with our crew. There were sixteen of them. They
-were
-
-[Illustration: Lunching in Karnak.]
-
-[Illustration: An Assiût Donkey.]
-
-from every part of Egypt, and of all colors, shading from the engineer,
-who was a cream-colored Turk,--when his face was washed,--to Ali, who
-must have been a Sudanese. Our head steward was almost as black, and the
-second steward was another of the cream-colored variety. We seldom saw
-the cook. Sometimes he would put his head and shoulders out of the
-hatchway, with his arms on the deck, and then we could see that he was a
-little, white-faced Turk with a large black mustache.
-
-Salem was a Syrian Christian, and he had lost all his earnings in an
-unprofitable exhibit at the World’s Fair in Chicago. His costumes were
-always elaborate, and he was very ornamental, with his silk sashes and
-fancy turbans. He superintended our meals, and always suggested the next
-day’s program during dinner; so with our coffee we would read aloud
-Charles Dudley Warner’s and Miss Edwards’s opinions of our next
-stopping-place.
-
-After our first dinner we tied to the bank, by a little village, Salem
-said, just big enough to have a name. It was-dark, and we could hear and
-see nothing; so we took his word for it.
-
-We were off early the next morning, and all that day the river’s banks
-were fringed with sugar-cane and sakiehs. The many boats we passed were
-loaded with natives, sometimes perched upon loads of grain, or mixed in
-with turkeys and cattle.
-
-[Illustration: Temple of Ti.]
-
-[Illustration: Tombs of the Kings, Thebes.]
-
-On December 14 we made our first landing, and had our first donkey ride,
-at Beni-Hassan, one hundred and seventy-one miles from Cairo. The
-Egyptian policemen who accompanied us to the tombs were out of keeping
-with the peaceful look of the place, and only succeeded in keeping at a
-distance the children, who were very pretty.
-
-From the cliffs back of the village we had our first view of the valley
-of the Nile, with its delicate green fields, beginning immediately at
-the foot of the sun-baked hills on which we stood. I rode back before
-the rest to make a sketch; but the arrival of the post-boat put an end
-to that, and its passengers soon had our donkeys, beggars, naked
-children, policemen, and all, and were taking them back to
-
-[Illustration: A Guardian of the Temple.]
-
-the tombs we had just left. The post-boat was to us what the foot-prints
-in the sand must have been to Robinson Crusoe. Our frame of mind
-underwent a change. We finally became reconciled to the fact that we
-were not doing anything uncommon, and from that moment our diaries
-suffered. Then the most contagious of all Nile ambitions seized us, and
-our one desire was to find a mummy.
-
-Most of the 15th was spent with Baedeker, preparing for Assiût, where we
-were to tie up for the night.
-
-After an early breakfast, we climbed the bank, and found that it was
-chiefly inhabited by beggars. We visited the tombs, and came back to the
-dahabiyeh by way of the bazaars, where the natives were dyeing the
-dark-blue cloth which they all dress in. That afternoon we came upon an
-army of pelicans on a mud flat in the middle of the river. At the sound
-of our whistle they got up, and we
-
-[Illustration: “Most of the day was spent with Baedeker.”]
-
-lost them far ahead in the twilight, and we thought of that tame pelican
-that waddles about in Shepheard’s stable-yard.
-
-The next day we went by mud villages at the foot of high mountains of
-white limestone, until we stopped at Farshut for coal, and tried to
-awaken some sign of friendliness in the natives, who were as dull as the
-mud banks on which they sat.
-
-On the afternoon of the 18th we reached Keneh, and in fifteen minutes we
-were on donkeys, going by villages filled with children and barking
-dogs, on our way to the temple of Dendera. This was to be our first big
-temple, and Salem had made it his chief excuse for hurrying us away from
-Beni-Hassan, Assiût, and the rest. Our donkeys raced along the edge of
-an empty canal, through herds of goats and buffalo, until we saw a low
-pile of stones in the distance, and then we reached the half-buried
-temple, and lighted candles, and went down into it and looked up at the
-mighty columns. Salem repeated all that the guide-books knew, and then
-took us around to the back wall and showed us the famous likeness of
-Cleopatra and her son Cæsarion.
-
-Salem was pleased with the way we took our first temple, and rewarded us
-by saying it was only the beginning of what was to come. We complimented
-him on his choice of subjects, blew out our candles, picked the
-candle-grease from our fingers, and reached the dahabiyeh by sundown.
-
-By one o’clock, on December 19, we were abreast of the promised Karnak,
-and could see the top of its pylons and obelisk. We had saved most of
-our enthusiasm for this place, and we were anxious to get ashore and
-expend it; reluctantly we went by it a few miles to Luxor for a better
-landing, where we were watched by a bank-load of natives until four
-o’clock. Then we walked through them to the village and temple of Luxor,
-which
-
-[Illustration: Christmas, 1897.]
-
-[Illustration: Guardians of the Temple.]
-
-served as a curtain-raiser to the next day’s visit to the greatest of
-all temples.
-
-That evening a Cook’s steamer arrived, and we were deserted by the crowd
-on the bank. After dinner Ghesiri entertained the sheiks of the
-donkey-boys and made arrangements for our mounts for the next day. Two
-of us volunteered to go to the village and locate the dancing that the
-guide-books said could be found here, but we learned there was to be
-none until the following Saturday.
-
-The next day was spent at Karnak, where Ghesiri led us over its famous
-stones, until lunch was brought from the _Nitocris_, and served in a
-colonnade surrounded by columns resembling huge granite lozenges, piled
-at all angles, one on top of the other, like ancient friends, those who
-had fought successfully with time supporting those who had been less
-fortunate; and apart from the rest, requiring no support, and with no
-friends to be helped, stood the greatest column of them all, the lonely
-survivor of the great peristyle court, with its lotus capital, looking
-down on all but its lonely rival, an obelisk. It looks as though it had
-been polished and placed there the day before, in striking contrast to
-its unfortunate mate, which centuries ago gave up battling with
-earthquakes and wars, and now lies, a hopeless ruin, at its feet.
-
-[Illustration: Christmas Night--“Auld Lang Syne.”]
-
-We spent the next three days at Karnak and Thebes, saving the tombs of
-the kings until we should stop again on our way down from Assuan.
-
-And now the important question was, Where should we spend Christinas?
-The better we knew Karnak and Thebes, the more forbidding they had
-grown. They were too stiff and formal, and their great rigid Rameses too
-depressing for a Christmas. We wanted a cheerful temple, and we found it
-at Komombos.
-
-We left Karnak on the morning of December 24, and spent Christmas eve at
-Edfu. That night the deck was entirely housed in by canvas. The crew sat
-in a circle back of the smoke-stack, and while they divided the
-cigarettes we had bought for them at Luxor, they listened to our “Down
-upon the Suwanee River.”
-
-Christmas morning we came on deck, and found that Ghesiri had
-transformed it into a bower of palm-branches, sugar-cane, and oranges.
-The crew were all smiles, and when we presented them with the price of a
-sheep, they gave us three cheers and a merry Christmas. More cigarettes
-were distributed, and shortly after breakfast we started for Komombos.
-
-There was little in the day to remind a New-Englander of Christmas. In
-the lightest clothes, we sat about the deck and watched the villages go
-by. It was good to see our old friends the water-wheels and cheerful
-sakiehs again. They looked better to us after our somber stay at Karnak.
-Early in the afternoon we came to Komombos, the temple we were looking
-for, and tied to the river’s bank just below it; and if you must be
-traveling on Christmas, there can be no better place to stop.
-
-At Komombos the never-resting Nile has worked its way to the foot of the
-little hill on which the temple is making its last stand
-
-[Illustration: Thebes, January 2, 1898.]
-
-against time. Some kind friends have covered the bank with stones, but
-the river is slowly wearing them away, and sooner or later it will claim
-its own; and it will be a pity, for Komombos’s temple is dainty in
-comparison with Karnak, where great stiff Rameses stand with their arms
-folded across their breasts in very much the same manner in which the
-real arms are held in the glass case at the Gizeh Museum.
-
-At Karnak there were miles of half-buried walls, and cut deep in them
-gigantic figures of Rameses, with one hand raised about to strike off
-the heads of enemies done up in bundles like asparagus and held by the
-hair of their heads, while armies are shown flying in confusion. The
-bas-reliefs at Komombos are more cheerful and cut with greater skill.
-They represent the ancient gods of Egypt in their more playful moods,
-floating down the Nile, spearing miniature hippopotamuses and
-crocodiles, with here and there a triumphant procession. The debris of
-the forgotten city that once covered Komombos has been removed, and the
-great hall, with its holy of holies now exposed to the light of day, is
-swept by the wind as clean as a Dutch kitchen; and yet the carvings are
-as fresh as the day they were made. From the _Nitocris_ to the temple
-is only a few steps through some sugar-cane. It was a novel experience
-to find no donkey-boys with their patient and sleepy donkeys.
-
-But the natives were different from any we had heretofore seen, and
-proved that we were getting into real Africa. They were mostly Nubians,
-and very black, and our preconceived idea of what an African should be.
-
-Komombos and Philæ are the only temples we climbed up to, and it seems
-to me that they, above all others, lend themselves more readily to the
-sentimental tourist. It is easier for the imagination to people them;
-they are more like dwellings.
-
-[Illustration: Home Visitors.]
-
-After tea had been brought from the _Nitocris_ and served in its
-portals, we all decided that Komombos would be the temple to own. That
-evening the crew hung lanterns around the deck among the sugar-canes and
-palms, and after dinner they gave an exhibition, which started well
-enough with a dance by the first mate.
-
-Since then I have found that all travelers on the Nile are likely to
-have this same experience. We were proof against the “Dhabir Devil” that
-the guide-books had warned us against, but Baedeker had made no mention
-of the possibility of this entertainment happening to us; still, the
-crew went at it as though it was an old story with them, and as I write
-this there may be some unsuspecting tourist about to go through with it.
-It sounds very good-natured on the part of the crew; and if the
-entertainment had stopped when the mate had finished the dance, it would
-have been well enough; but the dance was only to hold our attention
-while the others were getting ready, and then the dreary horse-play
-began. There was a barber-shop scene, in which flour paste was used and
-a door-mat acted as a towel. A crew that mutinies is tame compared with
-an Egyptian crew that acts. We stopped them as soon as we could without
-hurting their feelings, and they subsided and formed a circle back of
-the smoke-stack. The rest of the evening was spent in entertainment of
-our own choice, and by midnight all was still but the river, which never
-rests.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER THREE
-
-[Illustration: His Highness Prince Mahomet Ali, Cairo, February 14,
-1898.]
-
-[Illustration: On the Bank.]
-
-
-
-CHAPTER THIRD
-
-THE starting of the engines had us up fairly early the next morning, and
-we found the country very much changed. The desert now came to the
-river’s edge, and granite had taken the place of limestone; it seemed as
-though we had come to the end of fertile Egypt. Two white vultures were
-the only living things in sight. Then we came to some wonderful bends
-in the river, and the sakiehs once more began to dip up the muddy water;
-but the skins of the men who worked them had changed: they glistened
-like coal in the sunlight.
-
-By two o’clock we reached Assuan, and moored to the island of
-Elephantine, just opposite the town, from which any number of little
-bright-painted ferry-boats rowed toward us; and in a few minutes some
-thin-legged Egyptian policemen and a few natives were on the bank, and a
-small boy with a stick had been selected to mind the turkeys that we had
-brought from Esneh. Some of the poor birds were very weak on their legs,
-and where they ought to have been red they were only a pale
-salmon-color; but the little cook promised that they would be all right
-in a day or two. Some of the crew had homes on the island, and they all
-put on their best clothes and were met by friends. They immediately
-established a laundry on shore, and the building of an oven proved that
-we were to be there for some time.
-
-We began the 27th with a visit to the tombs on Grenfell Hill, high on
-the river’s bank, below Elephantine. There was a strong wind, full of
-sand, from the south, and the light natives had trouble in getting the
-heavy boat to the foot of the hill. The wind helped us back to the
-_Nitocris_, and after lunch we crossed the river to Assuan, where the
-inhabitants seemed especially prepared for tourists. The natives were
-more theatrical in Assuan, and the bazaars were filled with musical
-instruments, made as primitive as possible to please the traveler.
-
-[Illustration: Shopping.]
-
-There is a railroad at Assuan. It is only a small, disconnected link;
-but some day it will be part of a road to the Cape, and vestibule
-trains will run over it, and passengers may get only flying glimpses of
-Philæ from car windows. Think of being on a train that went by Pharaoh’s
-Bed in the night! But it is impossible to believe that the world could
-become used to such a wonderful place, and it is to be hoped that all
-trains will go slow when they come to Philæ; for without it Egypt would
-be like “Romeo and Juliet” without a balcony. It is the most romantic
-ruin in Egypt, and it marks the end of the first-cataract tourist’s
-journey.
-
-If the _Nitocris_ had been a sailing-dahabiyeh, and had belonged to us,
-and if the season had been younger and the river higher, we would have
-had her pulled up one cataract after another until we had made some
-important discoveries; but we were one-month tourists on a hired boat,
-and that night, while the _Nitocris_ was tied fast to some large wooden
-pegs driven deep into the
-
-[Illustration: Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo.]
-
-[Illustration: A Luxor Dancing-girl.]
-
-beach, we read how the _Rip Van Winkle_ and other dahabiyehs had gone to
-Abu-Simbel.
-
-The next morning we chose the nine-o’clock train, in preference to
-camels and donkeys; and after some minutes of rocking and twisting in
-the little box-car, we were ferried from the mainland to the famous
-island, where we were to forget Komombos and all the others amid new
-beauties, which no guide-book can exaggerate.
-
-After lunch we walked to the northern end of the island, hoarded a big,
-clumsy, eight-oared boat with a great deal of rigging lashed overhead,
-and our homeward journey began. There was a crew of ten, and we soon had
-the greatest respect for their skill, especially one little man with
-crooked teeth, who sat in the stern and shouted over our heads at the
-men in the boat.
-
-The rapids were tame enough at first. The wind was strong against us,
-and we found some shelter behind the high granite islands we drifted
-among. The river had worn them into fantastic shapes so closely
-resembling temples that hieroglyphics had been cut on the polished
-stones by the Pharaohs, who never tired of seeing their names in print.
-
-At one place we stopped and watched ten or fifteen boys swim and float
-down a part of the rapids. They would come shivering up to us, and the
-next instant they would be in
-
-[Illustration: Camel-back.]
-
-the water shooting by us on a log, screaming to attract our attention,
-and then back again to us, with their teeth chattering for bakshish.
-
-But after that it was very different. The man at the tiller half stood
-up, and I could see, by the little patches of sand on his forehead that
-the wrinkles there had formed in two parallel lines, that he had been
-praying while we had been watching the boys swim, and by the same sign I
-could see that most of the crew had been doing the same thing; and
-Mohammed must have been with us, for fifty times within half that number
-of minutes we needed help. With the little man in the stern continually
-wetting his lips and jamming the tiller from side to side, apparently
-steering in just the wrong place, and always proving that he was right,
-we “shot” over the uneven surface of the river, dodging half-buried
-rocks, first near one bank and then the other, until we reached the
-natural bed of the
-
-[Illustration: The Sheik of the Pyramids.]
-
-river. Here the crew began their battle with the wind, and by evening,
-after much chanting and hard rowing on their part, we reached the
-_Nitocris_, feeling very much as if our faces had been sandpapered.
-During our stay at Elephantine we made friends with four little Bisharin
-girls. They were graceful and pretty, and had the power to make the most
-dismal tomb cheerful. They followed us to the quarries back of Assuan,
-and turned the top of the half-finished obelisk into a stage and danced
-in the sunlight, while the blackest man in Africa played an instrument
-of his own invention. And the last I remember of Assuan is their
-
-[Illustration: On Grenfell Hill. The Keeper of the Tomb, Assuan,
-December 29, 1897.]
-
-four little figures wrapped in the brightest-colored shawls that could
-be bought in Lower Egypt, and they waving their hands until a bend in
-the river hid them.
-
-It was a novelty to find ourselves going with the current, which had
-been until now against us, and we could count on much bigger runs; but
-there was double the danger of running on a sand-bar, and from that time
-on there was always a man with a pole in the bow.
-
-On the 30th we stopped beneath our old friend Komombos, and visited Edfu
-the next day; and from the top of its pylons we looked into the
-mud-walled yards of the town, where little fly-covered children stopped
-playing with goats and called to us, even at that height, for bakshish.
-
-On the 31st we were once more in Luxor, where the donkey-boys and
-beggars gave us a hearty welcome. Again we visited Thebes, and were
-followed from tomb to tomb by the usual venders of imitation antiques
-and shriveled mummy-hands.
-
-Our trips back from Thebes were always enlivened by donkey-races across
-the great fields of young wheat, in the middle of which the great
-Memnons sit. Those races generally proved that “Columbus” was a faster
-donkey than “New York.”
-
-Pharaoh must have continually thought of the future. His tombs at Thebes
-show how anxious he was to outlast time. And it seems hard that his
-carefully prepared plans should have been interfered with. How
-impressive it would be to find, at the end of the long subterranean
-passage, the king whose one wish had been to lie there. He must have
-visited it often before his death. He might have superintended its
-building and criticized the drawings that decorate its walls. But the
-sarcophagus is now empty, and its lid is broken, and the king’s new
-friends have put him in a cheap wooden house; and written
-
-[Illustration: At the Races, Khedival Sporting Club.]
-
-[Illustration: An Assuan Beggar.]
-
-on a piece of cardboard, and tacked on the glass case in which he now
-lies, is the name he was so fond of cutting in granite.
-
-One year more or less makes very little difference to Egypt, but the New
-Year was properly welcomed aboard the _Nitocris_, for one of us had
-never seen a January 1 before. So it happened that, even in Egypt, the
-occasion was treated as a novelty, and the _Nitocris_ once more
-blossomed out with lanterns, and looked as well that night as her more
-graceful rivals, the sailing-dahabiyehs, that were anchored above and
-below us.
-
-January 4 was our last day at Luxor. We had ridden up the limestone
-valley at Thebes to the tombs of the kings, had spent several days and a
-moonlight night at Karnak. We had said good-by to our donkey-boys. Mine
-had held an umbrella over me with one hand and had fought natives at the
-same time with the other, and I hope that some day he will be a
-dragoman. Before daylight on the 5th we had once more started north,
-with only five more days on the river left to us. At night we tied to
-the bank and walked through moon-lighted villages, and did our best to
-imagine that our journey had only just begun.
-
-On the evening of the 7th an extraordinary thing happened. It rained
-hard enough to make a noise on the awning over us, and in the excitement
-we almost forgot that there were only three more days between us and
-Cairo. We had begun to count the hours and to dread that fatal bend in
-the river that would show us the pyramids at Sakkara, where we were to
-spend our last night. We passed dahabiyehs with American and English
-flags flying over them, and we were filled with
-
-[Illustration: An Artist in the Mouskie.]
-
-envy. Handkerchiefs and parasols were sympathetically waved at us, and
-at a distance we may have looked cheerful; but it was a forlorn,
-childish feeling to be taken home because our time was up and our
-dahabiyeh had another engagement. We felt that all the other boats knew
-our secret, and we even suspected the crew of having become tired of us
-and only remaining civil in order to collect the present that they were
-expecting.
-
-Ghesiri’s suggestion that we spend the night of the 10th at Cairo seemed
-to prove that they were anxious to have done with us; but we had no
-inclination to be tied to the bank at Cairo overnight, waiting to be
-sent away in the morning before a crowd of natives, and among them,
-possibly, those other people who had chartered our boat. We would wait
-at Sakkara, and not get to Cairo one minute before our time was up.
-
-On the 8th we visited a sugar-factory at
-
-[Illustration: Our Bisharin Friends, Assuan.]
-
-Tel-el-Amarna, and later on the same day passed our first landing-place,
-Beni-Hassan.
-
-By noon on the 9th we reached the fatal bend in the river and saw that
-we were once more in the land of pyramids, and we were soon tied to the
-bank beneath which once stood the city of Memphis. We rode to Marietta’s
-House, past the pyramids and the colossal Rameses lying on his back
-among tall palms, surrounded, for some reason, by a mud house, as if the
-great granite figure had not already proved that it could continue its
-battle with time unassisted by a few mud bricks and some tin roofing
-that is very much in the way.
-
-We lighted candles and walked through the hot, suffocating galleries of
-the mausoleum, and peered into the huge granite sarcophagi that once
-held the mummied sacred bulls. Then we rode to the tomb of Ti, and
-Ghesiri’s last lecture was about that gentleman.
-
-[Illustration: Beni-Hassan.]
-
-In the distance was Cairo; and even a view of the pyramids at Gizeh and
-the citadel failed to console us, and we still mourned our late month on
-the Nile. We took our last donkey-ride through the palms that now grow
-where Memphis once stood, and reached the _Nitocris_ by sundown.
-
-By midday on the 10th, we shook hands with the crew and left the
-_Nitocris_ tied to the bank where we had first found her, just as though
-nothing had happened; and, after all, what had happened was this: six
-more tourists had gone to the first cataract and back, and a few more
-Egyptian sketches had been made. For us the performance of the Nile was
-at an end, and we were once more in the streets on our way to the
-Ghezireh Hotel, with a determination to console ourselves with Cairo,
-which now looked to us, after our stay in the country, like a full-grown
-European capital.
-
-By January 10 the season had commenced
-
-[Illustration: At Philæ.]
-
-and the prices of rooms had doubled. Since we left, several steamers
-from the west had brought an army of tourists, who were turning Africa
-into New York, London, and Paris. And at the Casino, in the Ghezireh
-Gardens, was as good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law allows, but
-such a poor one that even the Frenchmen who worked it seemed ashamed of
-themselves, and the New-Yorker who owned it was very seldom seen there.
-
-[Illustration: “As good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law
-allows.”]
-
-At Shepheard’s there is always the man who has “been there before,” and
-like the same man at the play, he sits beside you and interprets the
-picture. You finally promise that you will not go to the _monskie_
-without him, and that you will not see the Sphinx by moonlight unless he
-is there; for if you do, not having been there before, you will be sure
-to go too early or too late. He says the moon should be at just such an
-angle and no other. The peddlers in the monskie know him, and while they
-entertain him with little cups of sweet tea they complain that they have
-had no luck since they last saw him, and they ask eagerly after that
-gentleman he brought to them the year before--the gentleman who had such
-exquisite taste and backed it up so generously with his money. And you
-drink their tea, and feel, as you leave the shops, after having only
-looked at their things, that they will never ask affectionately after
-you. The man who has been there before generally walks in front of you,
-as if he were not as anxious to have you see the place as he is to have
-you see that he knows his way about; and, after all, it is no small
-thing to be proud of. If I ever go to the mouskie again, I shall pity
-the greenhorn who happens to be with me.
-
-The bazaars are dirty, and so many pasty-faced Turks squatting about in
-the filth grow tiresome. At first they are described in letters home as
-fascinating and picturesque, and whole days are spent with them, buying
-hundreds of things that are destined to be left in hotel bureau drawers
-and gradually lost. The souvenirs we buy in the mouskie seem to melt
-away. The precious stones we bought there turn to glass, the slippers
-become pasteboard, the gilt things tarnish, and the brass-work bends
-itself into old junk, and the mouskie is only a confused dream; so no
-wonder the old traveler is proud that he can actually find his
-
-[Illustration: “The man who has ‘been there before.’”]
-
-[Illustration: In a Coffee-house, Cairo.]
-
-way about in it. He had probably begun to think that there never had
-been such a place.
-
-But Egypt is full of real things, and probably the most genuine thing of
-them all is the English occupation. Egypt herself is the best proof of
-how necessary to her well-being this is. It is hard to tell just how
-unhappy the fellaheen were before the English came. The Egyptian is not
-the sort of man that complains. After centuries of oppression, he now
-accepts whatever form of government is offered in a browbeaten way, and
-shuffles along after his donkey, and pays his tax for bringing a few
-bundles of clover across the bridge into Cairo without a murmur; and,
-judging by his looks, I doubt if he would make much disturbance if he
-found, some morning, that the tax on his clover had been doubled. He
-evidently feels like a very small depositor in a broken bank. England is
-the largest creditor, and is straightening things out for them both, and
-he is satisfied.
-
-There never were so many cooks trying to spoil a broth. Before a
-consul-general is received by the Khedive, the Sultan of Turkey must
-first approve of him, and it is said that the Sultan allows months to go
-by before he gives his consent, which is his Oriental way of showing his
-authority. But Egypt is geographically so important that, in spite of
-herself, she will be saved, and with England’s help she will some day
-pay her debts, and in centuries to come the fellah may learn to hold his
-head up like the Nubian.
-
-There is no fear of Egypt becoming dull and commonplace, for if the East
-and the West should ever fight, it must be for the possession of her
-canal; and many an unborn soldier’s reputation will be made before the
-railroad that has started up the Nile’s valley reaches Cape Town. The
-same land that offers death and reputation to the strong gives life to
-the weak, and the tired rich man on his dahabiyeh and the soldier on the
-transport go up the Nile side by side, and in most cases they both find
-what they are in search of.
-
-Shepheard’s, in all probability, will forever remain a composite
-portrait of Europe and Asia, with Cairo as its frame. Time has made, and
-probably will continue to make, some slight alteration in Upper Egypt’s
-appearance; but the locomotive’s whistle will have difficulty in
-breaking the silence and calm of Karnak and Thebes. And the present
-indications are that Egypt will remain true to the Pharaohs of old, and
-until the judgment-day she will, in all probability (assisted by the
-Nile, who made her), continue to quietly resist the attentions of modern
-nations, and patiently wait for that last day.
-
-[Illustration: At Komombos.]
-
-
-
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches in Egypt, by Charles Dana Gibson</p>
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-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Sketches in Egypt</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Charles Dana Gibson</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 19, 2022 [eBook #68568]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
- <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Chuck Greif (This file was produced from images available at Google Books)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES IN EGYPT ***</div>
-<hr class="full" />
-
-<p class="tbl">
-<a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS">Illustrations</a><br />
-<a href="#CHAPTER_FIRST">Chapter First</a><br />
-<a href="#CHAPTER_SECOND">Chapter Second</a><br />
-<a href="#CHAPTER_THREE">Chapter Three</a>
-</p>
-
-<p class="c">SKETCHES IN EGYPT</p>
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-<div class="figcenter">
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-<h1>Sketches in Egypt</h1>
-
-<p class="c">Written and illustrated by<br /><br />
-<span class="big">Charles Dana Gibson</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/colophon.png" height="165" alt="[Image unavailable.]" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="c">New York<br />
-
-Doubleday &amp; McClure Co.<br />
-
-1899<br />
-</p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="c">Copyright, 1899, by<br />
-S. S. McCLURE Co.<br />
-<br />
-Copyright, 1899, by<br />
-DOUBLEDAY &amp; McCLURE Co.
-</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="indif" style="width: 252px;">
-<a href="images/front-3.jpg">
-<img src="images/front-3.jpg" width="252" height="317" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xiii">{xiii}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
-
-<table>
-<tr><td>&#160;</td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">British Influence</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#front">Frontispiece</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Indifference</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#indif">xi</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Son of the Desert</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_3">3</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Peddler</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_5">5</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">The Slipper Bazaar, Cairo, January 22, 1898</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_7">7</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Egyptian High Life</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_9">9</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">The Present Situation</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_12">12</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Dealer in Antiquities</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_13">13</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">The Bridge</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_14">14</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Village on the Road to the Pyramids</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_14">14</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">In the Fish-Market</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_15">15</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Rameses the Great</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_17">17</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">At Lady Grenfell’s Masquerade Ball&#8212;on the eve of Kitchener’s departure for the Soudan</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_20">20</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Descendant of the Prophet&#8212;El Saied Ahmad Abdel Khalek Affandi, Sheik el Sadat</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_22">22</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Bargain in the Ghezireh Gardens</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_23">23</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Dancing-Girl</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_25">25</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Daughter of the Nile</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_27">27</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">On the Road to Cairo</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_31">31</a>
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xiv">{xiv}</a></span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="pdd">Our Christmas Dinner, Esneh, December 23</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_35">35</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Karnak, January 2, 1898</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_37">37</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Salem Ghesiri, Dragoman</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_39">39</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Karnak Beggar</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_40">40</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Ali, the Pilot</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_42">42</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Statue of Thothmes, Karnak</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_43">43</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Lunching in Karnak</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_45">45</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">An Assiût Donkey</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_47">47</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Temple of Ti</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_50">50</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Tombs of the Kings, Thebes</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_51">51</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Guardian of the Temple</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_53">53</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">“Most of the day was spent with Baedeker”</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_55">55</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Christmas, 1897</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_59">59</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Guardians of the Temple</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_61">61</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Christmas Night-“Auld Lang Syne”</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_63">63</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Thebes, January 2, 1898</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_67">67</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Some Visitors</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_71">71</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Vignette</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_74">74</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">His Highness Prince Mahomet Ali, Cairo, February 14, 1898</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_76">76</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">On the Bank</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_77">77</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Shopping</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_79">79</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_81">81</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">A Luxor Dancing-Girl</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Camel-Back</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_85">85</a>
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xv">{xv}</a></span></td></tr>
-
-<tr><td class="pdd">The Sheik of the Pyramids</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_88">88</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">On Grenfell Hill The Keeper of the Tomb, Assuan, December 29, 1897</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_89">89</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">At the Races, Khedival Sporting Club</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_94">94</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">An Assuan Beggar</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_95">95</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">An Artist in the Mouskie</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_97">97</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Our Bisharin Friends, Assuan</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_100">100</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">Beni-Hassan</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_101">101</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">At Philæ</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">“As good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law allows”</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">“The man who has ‘been there before’<span class="lftspc">”</span></td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_110">110</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">In a Coffee-House, Cairo</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_111">111</a></td></tr>
-<tr><td class="pdd">At Komombos</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xvi">{xvi}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_1">{1}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 434px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_001.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_001.jpg" width="434" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_2">{2}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_3">{3}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<h2><a id="CHAPTER_FIRST"></a>CHAPTER FIRST</h2>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 138px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_003.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_003.jpg" width="138" height="293" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Son of the Desert.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">E</span>GYPT has sat for her likeness longer than any other country. Nothing
-disturbs her composure. Financial ruin may stare her in the face, armies
-may come and go, but each year the Nile rises and spreads out over her,
-and all traces of disturbances are gone.</p>
-
-<p>Newspapers may be busy telling of her troubles, but very few of those
-troubles seem to affect her expression. The stockholders in London
-worry, and send out more Englishmen to look after their interests.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_4">{4}</a></span>
-Sugar-factories are inspected, and the barrage is doctored. But it is
-all very quietly done.</p>
-
-<p>The French cabinet may resign on account of her, and the English army
-may be increased for her sake, but few signs of these compliments does
-she show. All is tranquil. The only disturbance seems to be made by the
-dragomans who meet you at the station.</p>
-
-<p>Important events follow each other so closely in Egypt that a year-old
-guide-book is several chapters too short. Last year it was Kitchener’s
-campaign against the dervishes, and now the French are threatening to
-interfere with England’s march to the Cape. The dragoman is sometimes as
-satisfactory as the guide-book, and it is often pleasant to find how
-soon he is through with his recitation and you are allowed to go alone
-among the great temples. Earthquakes have shaken some in orderly ruin,
-as if the unseen hands of the men who built them were quietly and slowly
-building them up again.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_5">{5}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 211px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_005.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_005.jpg" width="211" height="268" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Peddler.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>But there is a temptation to grow sentimental over Egypt. It is far more
-cheerful than it sounds. It is happy and a place for a holiday&#8212;a
-country to make sketches in. These were made between December, 1897, and
-March, 1898, and I have been asked to help them tell their story of that
-part of Egypt the tourist is most likely to see, where the old and the
-new world meet most often.</p>
-
-<p>The ancient Egyptian artist must have been very happy. Temples were
-built with great smooth walls for him to cover with pictures that
-required very little writing to go with them, seldom more than Pharaoh’s
-cartouches, and even these he made more like a picture than a name. That
-must have been very<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_6">{6}</a></span> pleasant, and it should have compensated him for
-all the restrictions imposed upon him by the high priest of those days,
-who often limited his choice of subject to a king. The choice of subject
-is now unlimited. There never were so many different kinds of people in
-Egypt before. But it would be difficult to draw the king now, for there
-is much difference of opinion as to who he is.</p>
-
-<p>I left New York with a small library of Egyptian guide-books, and in
-nearly every one of them was a good description of a traveler’s feelings
-upon arriving at Alexandria or Port Saïd. I have been in both places,
-and about the same sensations will fit either port; and traveling is too
-personal a matter to describe at length, unless it is done with skill.
-To give advice is much more simple; and mine is that if you are on a
-steamer that is going through the Canal, don’t stay on her until she
-gets to Ismailia, but disembark at Port Saïd and get to Cairo that night
-all the way by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_7">{7}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_007.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_007.jpg" width="432" height="520" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>The Slipper Bazaar, Cairo, January 22, 1898.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_9">{9}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_8">{8}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_009.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_009.jpg" width="291" height="201" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Egyptian High Life.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">rail. You will see as much of the Canal as you want to, and you will not
-run the chance of being delayed a day, as the <i>Königin Luise</i> was last
-year by a little tramp steamer that had run foul of a coal-barge.</p>
-
-<p>More advice is to look out of the right-hand window of the car for a
-first glimpse of the pyramids, the first sure proof that you are in
-Napoleon’s Egypt. After they are once found, it is easy for your eye to
-follow them through palm-trees and over mud villages until darkness
-interferes. Then you come to the station in Cairo, a hotbed of porters
-and dragomans,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_10">{10}</a></span> and through the confusion you finally reach Shepheard’s,
-on the street like a great show-window&#8212;all but the plate glass&#8212;full of
-odds and ends from all the world. New arrivals are handed in by the
-dragomans and porters. It is as if you climbed over the footlights to
-assist in the performance. You finally stand before the good-looking Mr.
-Bailer, at the back of the stage. If he thinks you will stand a room
-overlooking the stable-yard, you will get it. The next morning I moved
-to the sunny side, overlooking the garden, where a tame pelican walked
-among tall palm-trees.</p>
-
-<p>The dragoman who first lays hands on you claims you for his own. You
-will find him waiting for you in the morning. He will sell you antiques,
-will take you snipe-shooting. He knows when the dervishes will howl or
-whirl, or where there is a native wedding, to which he will take you. It
-may be the fame of Shepheard’s, or the magic name of Egypt, but it all
-has a wonderful charm.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_12">{12}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_11">{11}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_012.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_012.jpg" width="420" height="349" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>The Present Situation.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_13">{13}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 174px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_013.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_013.jpg" width="174" height="364" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Dealer in Antiquities.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The remains of Rameses and Seti are lying on their backs out in the
-Gizeh Museum, and there is a strong desire to hurry to them, in spite of
-the fact that they will keep. But the panorama in front of Shepheard’s
-is absorbing, and your first morning will most likely be spent in
-watching it.</p>
-
-<p>My first afternoon was spent with an evil-eyed dragoman whose pockets
-were filled with dirty cards and letters, all testimonials from former
-customers proving that he was, as he continually told me, the best
-dragoman in the business. He could recite some of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_14">{14}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_014-a.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_014-a.jpg" width="328" height="175" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>The Bridge.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>“Mother Goose,” but knew very little English besides. With him I drove
-through streets that might have been in Paris, and by barracks and
-sentries that might have been in London, to a river that could only be</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 334px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_014-b.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_014-b.jpg" width="334" height="153" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Village on the Road to the Pyramids.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_15">{15}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_015.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_015.jpg" width="432" height="420" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>In the Fish-Market.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_17">{17}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_16">{16}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">in Egypt. My carriage went between the two bronze lions and joined in
-the procession of camels across the bridge over the famous river to the
-Gizeh side, where tall trees meet overhead; then to a smaller bridge,
-more trees, quaint shipping, and a stucco palace, once a harem where
-some of Ismail’s wives lived, and now a museum, the temporary
-resting-place of those uneasy mummied heads that once wore Egypt’s
-crown; small mouse-colored</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_017.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_017.jpg" width="384" height="267" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Rameses the Great.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_18">{18}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">donkeys on all sides, and, streaking in among them, tall camels; then
-seven more miles of trees and a good causeway to the pyramids. Since
-then I have gone over the road many times, and I am of the opinion that
-the Nile’s valley would make an ideal “happy hunting-ground,” to which
-all good tourists might go when cruel waves have ceased to toss them and
-their hotel lives are over.</p>
-
-<p>All too soon you must go hack to Cairo, where the Bedouin ceases to be
-the proud son of the desert and becomes a peddler, where sheep become
-mutton and clover is only fodder. But Cairo is about what the tourist
-expects of it and what the hotel proprietor thinks you want. He fills
-the halls of his hotel with gaily painted columns, and on each side of
-the staircase are gaudy figures; and for those tourists who take their
-Egypt between the slipper bazaar and the fish-market it may do.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_19">{19}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 410px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_019.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_019.jpg" width="410" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>At Lady Grenfell’s Masquerade Ball&#8212;on the eve of
-Kitchener’s departure for the Soudan.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_21">{21}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_20">{20}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The Gizeh side of the river is more restful, with its ferry to Bulak,
-its gardens, and its khedival sporting club, which is Egypt as England
-would have it&#8212;polo twice a week, croquet and rackets, a grand stand,
-and a steeplechase course; and the same men who play polo spend their
-mornings on the desert, teaching their troops to form hollow squares
-against the day they will have to meet the dervishes.</p>
-
-<p>You should choose your own Cairo. If you leave it to a dragoman you will
-get mostly howling dervishes and mosques; and if you leave it to a
-donkey-boy, there is no telling where he will take you&#8212;most likely to
-the fish-market. But with a guide-book and a bicycle you will miss very
-little that lies between the citadel and the pyramids. Cairo is not all
-hotel life, and bazaars lining narrow streets like open fireplaces,
-filled with putty-faced Turks as watchful as the brown buzzards that fly
-overhead; there are streets<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_22">{22}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 241px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_022.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_022.jpg" width="241" height="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Descendant of the Prophet&#8212;El Saied Ahmad Abdel Khalek
-Affandi, Sheik el Sadat.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">that are difficult to find, leading to forgotten courtyards with great
-trees standing in the middle of them, latticed windows bulging out over
-uneven pavements below, where black and gray crows waddle about. In such
-a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_23">{23}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_023.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_023.jpg" width="448" height="286" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Bargain in the Ghezireh Gardens.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_25">{25}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_24">{24}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 168px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_025.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_025.jpg" width="168" height="324" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Dancing-Girl.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">place sits the neglected Sheik el Sadat, a lineal descendant of the
-prophet. Through a doorway, in one corner of a tiled room, stands the
-gold-mounted saddle on which his ancestors once proudly rode. That was
-long before the days of the Suez Canal, boulevards, stucco palaces, and
-the opera-house. At court the sheik is no longer the fashion, but there
-is still a little band of Mohammedans who believe in him. To them the
-sheik and his old house are sacred. Through the thirty days of Ramadan
-they sat and howled in his courtyard, and respectfully kissed his hand;
-and, like the sheik, there must be many other distinguished<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_26">{26}</a></span> Oriental
-relics of the days gone by, left behind by the former tenants, and of no
-use to the present occupants.</p>
-
-<p>In Egypt the English hold the reins, and one of these days the Egyptian
-donkey may turn to the left when you meet him, as his distant relative
-in Whitechapel does. At present he keeps to the right, and staggers
-along under a load that is much too big for him. To-day he is not the
-fashion in Cairo. He is only ridden by tourists after dark, through
-streets that are too narrow and crooked for a carriage. But up the river
-it is very different. There you learn to like him. From his back you
-first see Karnak, and the statues of Memnon, and he is forever
-associated in your memory with the tombs of the kings. Tourists quarrel
-over him, and in most cases his name is “Rameses, the Great.” His chief
-complaint must be that an Englishman weighs more than an Egyptian; but
-he should consider<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_27">{27}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 226px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_027.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_027.jpg" width="226" height="387" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Daughter of the Nile.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">how much better off the Egyptian is since the English have held the
-reins. He will only know of this from his own observation, and from what
-he hears the English say. He will never get it from a Frenchman; and the
-Egyptian, who could tell him, is sulky, and stupidly wishes that he had
-been rescued by some one else. The half-breed Jew and Turk in the
-“Mooskee” is too busy; and all the rest of Egypt don’t know why they are
-better off, or who to thank for law and order or the improved irrigation
-that gives them a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_28">{28}</a></span> fair chance with the rest of civilized mankind. But
-whether the donkey knows it or not, he is much hotter off, for an
-Englishman never rides him when he is old and weak, and that is more
-than he can expect from his Egyptian friends, who often get on him two
-at a time.</p>
-
-<p>At Shepheard’s people put aside their guide-books for a while. It is a
-play that requires no libretto. On the crowded piazza overlooking the
-street, London shopkeepers and foreign noblemen elbow each other, and
-all celebrities look very much alike.</p>
-
-<p>Cairo is the foyer of Egypt. To go to Egypt and not go up the Nile is
-very much like standing outside of a theater and watching the audience
-go in, and then waiting until they come out, to glean from their
-conversation some idea of the play. But the tourists who go up the river
-see the drama of Egypt with all its wonderful scenery, and they feel far
-superior to those who waited for them at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_29">{29}</a></span> Shepheard’s. After one month
-on the river, it is with a very different feeling they come back to the
-museum at Gizeh and look on the face of Seti and his distinguished son,
-whom they have tracked from Sakkara to Philæ and back to their tombs in
-the sun-baked valley at Thebes, where they had hoped to rest in peace,
-surrounded by all that a first-class mummy requires during its long
-wait.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_31">{31}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_30">{30}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 477px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_031.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_031.jpg" width="477" height="286" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>On the Road to Cairo.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_33">{33}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_32">{32}</a></span></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_34">{34}</a></span></p>
-<h2><a id="CHAPTER_SECOND"></a>CHAPTER SECOND</h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 231px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_034.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_034.jpg" width="231" height="375" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>On the Bank at Komombos.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_35">{35}</a></span></p>
-
-<h2><a id="CHAPTER_SECOND2"></a>CHAPTER SECOND</h2>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 258px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_035.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_035.jpg" width="258" height="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Our Christmas Dinner, Esneh, December 23.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">S</span>OME Egypt-bound tourists decide to go up the Nile before they buy their
-tickets at the company’s office in Bowling Green. Others, if they are
-good sailors, make up their minds before they reach Naples. Some are ill
-all the way to Port Saïd, and don’t cave. But most travelers are pretty
-sure to decide one way or the other soon after Mount Etna<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_36">{36}</a></span> has been left
-behind, for the East begins for most people from that moment. If the
-guide-books fail to persuade you, there is pretty sure to be a
-fellow-passenger who will. The man who has once seen Upper Egypt does
-his best to make you dissatisfied with Lower Egypt. He can easily show
-you that your journey’s end is not Cairo, but, at the very least, the
-first cataract. This is the shortest distance he will listen to. And
-after he has your promise to go that far, he tells you of the wonders
-that can only be seen by going on to the second cataract.</p>
-
-<p>My fellow-passenger was an old traveler. Others besides myself fell
-under the spell of his eloquence; so, before we had been at Shepheard’s
-a week, we were a party of six, with the steam-dahabiyeh <i>Nitocris</i>
-chartered for a month, beginning December 12. There were growing plants,
-rugs, and a piano on her deck, and six state-rooms below. Salem Ghesiri
-was our dragoman. He spoke<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_37">{37}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_037.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_037.jpg" width="475" height="340" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Karnak, January 2, 1898.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_39">{39}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_38">{38}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">good English, and knew the river by heart. Before we left, a few days
-were spent in buying cork hats and sun umbrellas, and by ten o’clock on
-the morning of the 12th the crew had unloaded the trucks that had
-brought our belongings down from Shepheard’s, and we had started, with
-the wind and the current so strong against us that it was all we could
-do to make six miles an hour against them.</p>
-
-<p>On our left were the mud houses of Old Cairo, with ancient quarries in
-the distance, and on the right, far beyond a forest of slanting masts
-that belonged to the picturesque ships which lined the bank, were the
-tops of the pyramids that we were leaving for a month. As evening
-approached, the</p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 155px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_039.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_039.jpg" width="155" height="255" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Salem Ghesiri Dragoman.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_40">{40}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">right bank seemed peopled with silhouettes of camels, donkeys, and men,
-while the figures on the opposite bank were rose-color. To us the day
-was cool, but to the crew it must have been cold, for their heads were
-wrapped in shawls and they huddled together in groups about the deck.
-The awning over us had been removed, and Ali, the pilot, looked like a
-partly unwrapped mummy as he sat at the wheel.</p>
-
-<p>Those who go up the river in a dahabiyeh like to feel that they are in
-the same boat with the travelers whose books they read from New York to
-Port Saïd. This would be a very pleasant feeling, if it did not suggest
-the responsibility of keeping a record of days that, from all accounts,
-are sure to be of so much importance. There is a</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 263px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_040.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_040.jpg" width="263" height="228" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Karnak Beggar.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_42">{42}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_41">{41}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 264px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_042.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_042.jpg" width="264" height="394" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>All, the Pilot.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_43">{43}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">sentimental belief that each day on the river is to be of the greatest
-importance, just as if thousands of tourists on Cook’s steamers were not
-taking the same journey each year. So overpowering becomes this delusion
-that even letters home seem to take the form of historic biographies,
-and sound like messages that are sometimes found floating in bottles
-thrown overboard by shipwrecked people. The Nile itself seems to insist
-that all mention of it should be made in the form of a diary, for, with
-very few exceptions, all accounts adopt that mode of expression when
-they come to it. Cairo and</p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 241px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_043.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_043.jpg" width="241" height="317" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Statue of Thothmes, Karnak.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_44">{44}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Upper Egypt may be treated in the form of essays, but the endless
-parallel banks of the river immediately suggest that all days will be
-very much alike and lose their identity, unless they are numbered and
-described. It seems to be of the greatest importance to find the best
-way to spell the name of the mud village where you tie up for the night
-(which name most of the guide-books spell differently)&#8212;as if it made
-any difference to the people at home.</p>
-
-<p>But the diaries on the <i>Nitocris</i> during that month were very
-conscientious and particular about these small things, and I think they
-will all agree in their spelling, for each one of us waited until all
-the others had agreed upon the most popular way to spell the names of
-these various landmarks before we wrote them down.</p>
-
-<p>We soon made friends with our crew. There were sixteen of them. They
-were<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_45">{45}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_045.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_045.jpg" width="331" height="483" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Lunching in Karnak.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_47">{47}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_46">{46}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 324px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_047.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_047.jpg" width="324" height="229" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>An Assiût Donkey.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">from every part of Egypt, and of all colors, shading from the engineer,
-who was a cream-colored Turk,&#8212;when his face was washed,&#8212;to Ali, who
-must have been a Sudanese. Our head steward was almost as black, and the
-second steward was another of the cream-colored variety. We seldom saw
-the cook. Sometimes he would put his head and shoulders out of the
-hatchway, with his arms on the deck, and then we could see that he was a
-little, white-faced Turk with a large black mustache.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_48">{48}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>Salem was a Syrian Christian, and he had lost all his earnings in an
-unprofitable exhibit at the World’s Fair in Chicago. His costumes were
-always elaborate, and he was very ornamental, with his silk sashes and
-fancy turbans. He superintended our meals, and always suggested the next
-day’s program during dinner; so with our coffee we would read aloud
-Charles Dudley Warner’s and Miss Edwards’s opinions of our next
-stopping-place.</p>
-
-<p>After our first dinner we tied to the bank, by a little village, Salem
-said, just big enough to have a name. It was-dark, and we could hear and
-see nothing; so we took his word for it.</p>
-
-<p>We were off early the next morning, and all that day the river’s banks
-were fringed with sugar-cane and sakiehs. The many boats we passed were
-loaded with natives, sometimes perched upon loads of grain, or mixed in
-with turkeys and cattle.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_50">{50}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_49">{49}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 330px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_050.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_050.jpg" width="330" height="466" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Temple of Ti.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_51">{51}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 393px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_051.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_051.jpg" width="393" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Tombs of the Kings, Thebes.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_53">{53}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>On December 14 we made our first landing, and had our first donkey ride,
-at Beni-Hassan, one hundred and seventy-one miles from Cairo. The
-Egyptian policemen who accompanied us to the tombs were out of keeping
-with the peaceful look of the place, and only succeeded in keeping at a
-distance the children, who were very pretty.</p>
-
-<p>From the cliffs back of the village we had our first view of the valley
-of the Nile, with its delicate green fields, beginning immediately at
-the foot of the sun-baked hills on which we stood. I rode back before
-the rest to make a sketch; but the arrival of the post-boat put an end
-to that, and its passengers soon had our donkeys, beggars, naked
-children, policemen, and all, and were taking them back to</p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 130px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_053.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_053.jpg" width="130" height="251" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Guardian of the Temple.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_54">{54}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">the tombs we had just left. The post-boat was to us what the foot-prints
-in the sand must have been to Robinson Crusoe. Our frame of mind
-underwent a change. We finally became reconciled to the fact that we
-were not doing anything uncommon, and from that moment our diaries
-suffered. Then the most contagious of all Nile ambitions seized us, and
-our one desire was to find a mummy.</p>
-
-<p>Most of the 15th was spent with Baedeker, preparing for Assiût, where we
-were to tie up for the night.</p>
-
-<p>After an early breakfast, we climbed the bank, and found that it was
-chiefly inhabited by beggars. We visited the tombs, and came back to the
-dahabiyeh by way of the bazaars, where the natives were dyeing the
-dark-blue cloth which they all dress in. That afternoon we came upon an
-army of pelicans on a mud flat in the middle of the river. At the sound
-of our whistle they got up, and we<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_55">{55}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 453px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_055.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_055.jpg" width="453" height="313" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“Most of the day was spent with Baedeker.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_57">{57}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_56">{56}</a></span>”</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">lost them far ahead in the twilight, and we thought of that tame pelican
-that waddles about in Shepheard’s stable-yard.</p>
-
-<p>The next day we went by mud villages at the foot of high mountains of
-white limestone, until we stopped at Farshut for coal, and tried to
-awaken some sign of friendliness in the natives, who were as dull as the
-mud banks on which they sat.</p>
-
-<p>On the afternoon of the 18th we reached Keneh, and in fifteen minutes we
-were on donkeys, going by villages filled with children and barking
-dogs, on our way to the temple of Dendera. This was to be our first big
-temple, and Salem had made it his chief excuse for hurrying us away from
-Beni-Hassan, Assiût, and the rest. Our donkeys raced along the edge of
-an empty canal, through herds of goats and buffalo, until we saw a low
-pile of stones in the distance, and then we reached the half-buried
-temple, and lighted candles, and went down into it and looked up at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_58">{58}</a></span> the
-mighty columns. Salem repeated all that the guide-books knew, and then
-took us around to the back wall and showed us the famous likeness of
-Cleopatra and her son Cæsarion.</p>
-
-<p>Salem was pleased with the way we took our first temple, and rewarded us
-by saying it was only the beginning of what was to come. We complimented
-him on his choice of subjects, blew out our candles, picked the
-candle-grease from our fingers, and reached the dahabiyeh by sundown.</p>
-
-<p>By one o’clock, on December 19, we were abreast of the promised Karnak,
-and could see the top of its pylons and obelisk. We had saved most of
-our enthusiasm for this place, and we were anxious to get ashore and
-expend it; reluctantly we went by it a few miles to Luxor for a better
-landing, where we were watched by a bank-load of natives until four
-o’clock. Then we walked through them to the village and temple of Luxor,
-which<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_59">{59}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 481px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_059.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_059.jpg" width="481" height="340" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Christmas, 1897.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_61">{61}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_60">{60}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 333px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_061.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_061.jpg" width="333" height="331" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Guardians of the Temple.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">served as a curtain-raiser to the next day’s visit to the greatest of
-all temples.</p>
-
-<p>That evening a Cook’s steamer arrived, and we were deserted by the crowd
-on the bank. After dinner Ghesiri entertained the sheiks of the
-donkey-boys and made arrangements for our mounts for the next day. Two
-of us volunteered to go to the village and locate the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_62">{62}</a></span> dancing that the
-guide-books said could be found here, but we learned there was to be
-none until the following Saturday.</p>
-
-<p>The next day was spent at Karnak, where Ghesiri led us over its famous
-stones, until lunch was brought from the <i>Nitocris</i>, and served in a
-colonnade surrounded by columns resembling huge granite lozenges, piled
-at all angles, one on top of the other, like ancient friends, those who
-had fought successfully with time supporting those who had been less
-fortunate; and apart from the rest, requiring no support, and with no
-friends to be helped, stood the greatest column of them all, the lonely
-survivor of the great peristyle court, with its lotus capital, looking
-down on all but its lonely rival, an obelisk. It looks as though it had
-been polished and placed there the day before, in striking contrast to
-its unfortunate mate, which centuries ago gave up battling with
-earthquakes and wars, and now lies, a hopeless ruin, at its feet.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_63">{63}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_063.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_063.jpg" width="466" height="333" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption">Christmas Night&#8212;“Auld Lang Syne.”</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_64">{64}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_65">{65}</a></span>&#160; </p>
-
-<p>We spent the next three days at Karnak and Thebes, saving the tombs of
-the kings until we should stop again on our way down from Assuan.</p>
-
-<p>And now the important question was, Where should we spend Christinas?
-The better we knew Karnak and Thebes, the more forbidding they had
-grown. They were too stiff and formal, and their great rigid Rameses too
-depressing for a Christmas. We wanted a cheerful temple, and we found it
-at Komombos.</p>
-
-<p>We left Karnak on the morning of December 24, and spent Christmas eve at
-Edfu. That night the deck was entirely housed in by canvas. The crew sat
-in a circle back of the smoke-stack, and while they divided the
-cigarettes we had bought for them at Luxor, they listened to our “Down
-upon the Suwanee River.”</p>
-
-<p>Christmas morning we came on deck, and found that Ghesiri had
-transformed it into<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_66">{66}</a></span> a bower of palm-branches, sugar-cane, and oranges.
-The crew were all smiles, and when we presented them with the price of a
-sheep, they gave us three cheers and a merry Christmas. More cigarettes
-were distributed, and shortly after breakfast we started for Komombos.</p>
-
-<p>There was little in the day to remind a New-Englander of Christmas. In
-the lightest clothes, we sat about the deck and watched the villages go
-by. It was good to see our old friends the water-wheels and cheerful
-sakiehs again. They looked better to us after our somber stay at Karnak.
-Early in the afternoon we came to Komombos, the temple we were looking
-for, and tied to the river’s bank just below it; and if you must be
-traveling on Christmas, there can be no better place to stop.</p>
-
-<p>At Komombos the never-resting Nile has worked its way to the foot of the
-little hill on which the temple is making its last stand<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_67">{67}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 483px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_067.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_067.jpg" width="483" height="340" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Thebes, January 2, 1898.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_69">{69}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_68">{68}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">against time. Some kind friends have covered the bank with stones, but
-the river is slowly wearing them away, and sooner or later it will claim
-its own; and it will be a pity, for Komombos’s temple is dainty in
-comparison with Karnak, where great stiff Rameses stand with their arms
-folded across their breasts in very much the same manner in which the
-real arms are held in the glass case at the Gizeh Museum.</p>
-
-<p>At Karnak there were miles of half-buried walls, and cut deep in them
-gigantic figures of Rameses, with one hand raised about to strike off
-the heads of enemies done up in bundles like asparagus and held by the
-hair of their heads, while armies are shown flying in confusion. The
-bas-reliefs at Komombos are more cheerful and cut with greater skill.
-They represent the ancient gods of Egypt in their more playful moods,
-floating down the Nile, spearing miniature hippopotamuses and
-crocodiles, with here and there a triumphant<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_70">{70}</a></span> procession. The debris of
-the forgotten city that once covered Komombos has been removed, and the
-great hall, with its holy of holies now exposed to the light of day, is
-swept by the wind as clean as a Dutch kitchen; and yet the carvings are
-as fresh as the day they were made. From the <i>Nitocris</i> to the temple
-is only a few steps through some sugar-cane. It was a novel experience
-to find no donkey-boys with their patient and sleepy donkeys.</p>
-
-<p>But the natives were different from any we had heretofore seen, and
-proved that we were getting into real Africa. They were mostly Nubians,
-and very black, and our preconceived idea of what an African should be.</p>
-
-<p>Komombos and Philæ are the only temples we climbed up to, and it seems
-to me that they, above all others, lend themselves more readily to the
-sentimental tourist. It is easier for the imagination to people them;
-they are more like dwellings.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_71">{71}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 485px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_071.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_071.jpg" width="485" height="334" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Home Visitors.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_73">{73}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_72">{72}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>After tea had been brought from the <i>Nitocris</i> and served in its
-portals, we all decided that Komombos would be the temple to own. That
-evening the crew hung lanterns around the deck among the sugar-canes and
-palms, and after dinner they gave an exhibition, which started well
-enough with a dance by the first mate.</p>
-
-<p>Since then I have found that all travelers on the Nile are likely to
-have this same experience. We were proof against the “Dhabir Devil” that
-the guide-books had warned us against, but Baedeker had made no mention
-of the possibility of this entertainment happening to us; still, the
-crew went at it as though it was an old story with them, and as I write
-this there may be some unsuspecting tourist about to go through with it.
-It sounds very good-natured on the part of the crew; and if the
-entertainment had stopped when the mate had finished the dance, it would
-have been well enough; but<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_74">{74}</a></span> the dance was only to hold our attention
-while the others were getting ready, and then the dreary horse-play
-began. There was a barber-shop scene, in which flour paste was used and
-a door-mat acted as a towel. A crew that mutinies is tame compared with
-an Egyptian crew that acts. We stopped them as soon as we could without
-hurting their feelings, and they subsided and formed a circle back of
-the smoke-stack. The rest of the evening was spent in entertainment of
-our own choice, and by midnight all was still but the river, which never
-rests.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_074.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_074.jpg" width="339" height="186" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_75">{75}</a></span></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_76">{76}</a></span></p>
-<h2><a id="CHAPTER_THREE"></a>CHAPTER THREE</h2>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_076.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_076.jpg" width="600" height="570" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>His Highness Prince Mahomet Ali, Cairo, February 14,
-1898.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_77">{77}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 235px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_077.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_077.jpg" width="235" height="208" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>On the Bank.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<h2>CHAPTER THIRD</h2>
-
-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE starting of the engines had us up fairly early the next morning, and
-we found the country very much changed. The desert now came to the
-river’s edge, and granite had taken the place of limestone; it seemed as
-though we had come to the end of fertile Egypt. Two white vultures were
-the only living things in sight. Then we<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_78">{78}</a></span> came to some wonderful bends
-in the river, and the sakiehs once more began to dip up the muddy water;
-but the skins of the men who worked them had changed: they glistened
-like coal in the sunlight.</p>
-
-<p>By two o’clock we reached Assuan, and moored to the island of
-Elephantine, just opposite the town, from which any number of little
-bright-painted ferry-boats rowed toward us; and in a few minutes some
-thin-legged Egyptian policemen and a few natives were on the bank, and a
-small boy with a stick had been selected to mind the turkeys that we had
-brought from Esneh. Some of the poor birds were very weak on their legs,
-and where they ought to have been red they were only a pale
-salmon-color; but the little cook promised that they would be all right
-in a day or two. Some of the crew had homes on the island, and they all
-put on their best clothes and were met by friends. They immediately
-established a laundry on shore, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_79">{79}</a></span> the building of an oven proved that
-we were to be there for some time.</p>
-
-<p>We began the 27th with a visit to the tombs on Grenfell Hill, high on
-the river’s bank, below Elephantine. There was a strong wind, full of
-sand, from the south, and the light natives had trouble in getting the
-heavy boat to the foot of the hill. The wind helped us back to the
-<i>Nitocris</i>, and after lunch we crossed the river to Assuan, where the
-inhabitants seemed especially prepared for tourists. The natives were
-more theatrical in Assuan, and the bazaars were filled with musical
-instruments, made as primitive as possible to please the traveler.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 329px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_079.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_079.jpg" width="329" height="727" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Shopping.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>There is a railroad at Assuan. It is only a small, disconnected link;
-but some day<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_80">{80}</a></span> it will be part of a road to the Cape, and vestibule
-trains will run over it, and passengers may get only flying glimpses of
-Philæ from car windows. Think of being on a train that went by Pharaoh’s
-Bed in the night! But it is impossible to believe that the world could
-become used to such a wonderful place, and it is to be hoped that all
-trains will go slow when they come to Philæ; for without it Egypt would
-be like “Romeo and Juliet” without a balcony. It is the most romantic
-ruin in Egypt, and it marks the end of the first-cataract tourist’s
-journey.</p>
-
-<p>If the <i>Nitocris</i> had been a sailing-dahabiyeh, and had belonged to us,
-and if the season had been younger and the river higher, we would have
-had her pulled up one cataract after another until we had made some
-important discoveries; but we were one-month tourists on a hired boat,
-and that night, while the <i>Nitocris</i> was tied fast to some large wooden
-pegs driven deep into the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_81">{81}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 481px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_081.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_081.jpg" width="481" height="477" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_83">{83}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_82">{82}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 217px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_083.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_083.jpg" width="217" height="257" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>A Luxor Dancing-girl.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">beach, we read how the <i>Rip Van Winkle</i> and other dahabiyehs had gone to
-Abu-Simbel.</p>
-
-<p>The next morning we chose the nine-o’clock train, in preference to
-camels and donkeys; and after some minutes of rocking and twisting in
-the little box-car, we were ferried from the mainland to the famous
-island, where we were to forget Komombos and all the others amid new
-beauties, which no guide-book can exaggerate.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_84">{84}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>After lunch we walked to the northern end of the island, hoarded a big,
-clumsy, eight-oared boat with a great deal of rigging lashed overhead,
-and our homeward journey began. There was a crew of ten, and we soon had
-the greatest respect for their skill, especially one little man with
-crooked teeth, who sat in the stern and shouted over our heads at the
-men in the boat.</p>
-
-<p>The rapids were tame enough at first. The wind was strong against us,
-and we found some shelter behind the high granite islands we drifted
-among. The river had worn them into fantastic shapes so closely
-resembling temples that hieroglyphics had been cut on the polished
-stones by the Pharaohs, who never tired of seeing their names in print.</p>
-
-<p>At one place we stopped and watched ten or fifteen boys swim and float
-down a part of the rapids. They would come shivering up to us, and the
-next instant they would be in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_85">{85}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 490px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_085.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_085.jpg" width="490" height="333" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Camel-back.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_87">{87}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_86">{86}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">the water shooting by us on a log, screaming to attract our attention,
-and then back again to us, with their teeth chattering for bakshish.</p>
-
-<p>But after that it was very different. The man at the tiller half stood
-up, and I could see, by the little patches of sand on his forehead that
-the wrinkles there had formed in two parallel lines, that he had been
-praying while we had been watching the boys swim, and by the same sign I
-could see that most of the crew had been doing the same thing; and
-Mohammed must have been with us, for fifty times within half that number
-of minutes we needed help. With the little man in the stern continually
-wetting his lips and jamming the tiller from side to side, apparently
-steering in just the wrong place, and always proving that he was right,
-we “shot” over the uneven surface of the river, dodging half-buried
-rocks, first near one bank and then the other, until we reached the
-natural bed of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_88">{88}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 202px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_088.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_088.jpg" width="202" height="335" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>The Sheik of the Pyramids.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">river. Here the crew began their battle with the wind, and by evening,
-after much chanting and hard rowing on their part, we reached the
-<i>Nitocris</i>, feeling very much as if our faces had been sandpapered.
-During our stay at Elephantine we made friends with four little Bisharin
-girls. They were graceful and pretty, and had the power to make the most
-dismal tomb cheerful. They followed us to the quarries back of Assuan,
-and turned the top of the half-finished obelisk into a stage and danced
-in the sunlight, while the blackest man in Africa played an instrument
-of his own invention. And the last I remember of Assuan is their<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_89">{89}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 293px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_089.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_089.jpg" width="293" height="435" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>On Grenfell Hill. The Keeper of the Tomb, Assuan,
-December 29, 1897.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_91">{91}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_90">{90}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">four little figures wrapped in the brightest-colored shawls that could
-be bought in Lower Egypt, and they waving their hands until a bend in
-the river hid them.</p>
-
-<p>It was a novelty to find ourselves going with the current, which had
-been until now against us, and we could count on much bigger runs; but
-there was double the danger of running on a sand-bar, and from that time
-on there was always a man with a pole in the bow.</p>
-
-<p>On the 30th we stopped beneath our old friend Komombos, and visited Edfu
-the next day; and from the top of its pylons we looked into the
-mud-walled yards of the town, where little fly-covered children stopped
-playing with goats and called to us, even at that height, for bakshish.</p>
-
-<p>On the 31st we were once more in Luxor, where the donkey-boys and
-beggars gave us a hearty welcome. Again we visited Thebes, and were
-followed from tomb to tomb by<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_92">{92}</a></span> the usual venders of imitation antiques
-and shriveled mummy-hands.</p>
-
-<p>Our trips back from Thebes were always enlivened by donkey-races across
-the great fields of young wheat, in the middle of which the great
-Memnons sit. Those races generally proved that “Columbus” was a faster
-donkey than “New York.”</p>
-
-<p>Pharaoh must have continually thought of the future. His tombs at Thebes
-show how anxious he was to outlast time. And it seems hard that his
-carefully prepared plans should have been interfered with. How
-impressive it would be to find, at the end of the long subterranean
-passage, the king whose one wish had been to lie there. He must have
-visited it often before his death. He might have superintended its
-building and criticized the drawings that decorate its walls. But the
-sarcophagus is now empty, and its lid is broken, and the king’s new
-friends have put him in a cheap wooden house; and written<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_94">{94}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_93">{93}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_094.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_094.jpg" width="359" height="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>At the Races, Khedival Sporting Club.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_95">{95}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" style="width: 118px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_095.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_095.jpg" width="118" height="264" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>An Assuan Beggar.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">on a piece of cardboard, and tacked on the glass case in which he now
-lies, is the name he was so fond of cutting in granite.</p>
-
-<p>One year more or less makes very little difference to Egypt, but the New
-Year was properly welcomed aboard the <i>Nitocris</i>, for one of us had
-never seen a January 1 before. So it happened that, even in Egypt, the
-occasion was treated as a novelty, and the <i>Nitocris</i> once more
-blossomed out with lanterns, and looked as well that night as her more
-graceful rivals, the sailing-dahabiyehs, that were anchored above and
-below us.</p>
-
-<p>January 4 was our last day at Luxor. We had ridden up the limestone
-valley at Thebes to the tombs of the kings, had spent several days and a
-moonlight night at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_96">{96}</a></span> Karnak. We had said good-by to our donkey-boys. Mine
-had held an umbrella over me with one hand and had fought natives at the
-same time with the other, and I hope that some day he will be a
-dragoman. Before daylight on the 5th we had once more started north,
-with only five more days on the river left to us. At night we tied to
-the bank and walked through moon-lighted villages, and did our best to
-imagine that our journey had only just begun.</p>
-
-<p>On the evening of the 7th an extraordinary thing happened. It rained
-hard enough to make a noise on the awning over us, and in the excitement
-we almost forgot that there were only three more days between us and
-Cairo. We had begun to count the hours and to dread that fatal bend in
-the river that would show us the pyramids at Sakkara, where we were to
-spend our last night. We passed dahabiyehs with American and English
-flags flying over them, and we were filled with<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_097.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_097.jpg" width="424" height="600" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>An Artist in the Mouskie.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_99">{99}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_98">{98}</a></span></p>
-
-<p class="nind">envy. Handkerchiefs and parasols were sympathetically waved at us, and
-at a distance we may have looked cheerful; but it was a forlorn,
-childish feeling to be taken home because our time was up and our
-dahabiyeh had another engagement. We felt that all the other boats knew
-our secret, and we even suspected the crew of having become tired of us
-and only remaining civil in order to collect the present that they were
-expecting.</p>
-
-<p>Ghesiri’s suggestion that we spend the night of the 10th at Cairo seemed
-to prove that they were anxious to have done with us; but we had no
-inclination to be tied to the bank at Cairo overnight, waiting to be
-sent away in the morning before a crowd of natives, and among them,
-possibly, those other people who had chartered our boat. We would wait
-at Sakkara, and not get to Cairo one minute before our time was up.</p>
-
-<p>On the 8th we visited a sugar-factory at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_100">{100}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" style="width: 193px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_100.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_100.jpg" width="193" height="289" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Our Bisharin Friends, Assuan.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Tel-el-Amarna, and later on the same day passed our first landing-place,
-Beni-Hassan.</p>
-
-<p>By noon on the 9th we reached the fatal bend in the river and saw that
-we were once more in the land of pyramids, and we were soon tied to the
-bank beneath which once stood the city of Memphis. We rode to Marietta’s
-House, past the pyramids and the colossal Rameses lying on his back
-among tall palms, surrounded, for some reason, by a mud house, as if the
-great granite figure had not already proved that it could continue its
-battle with time unassisted by a few mud bricks and some tin roofing
-that is very much in the way.</p>
-
-<p>We lighted candles and walked through the hot, suffocating galleries of
-the mausoleum, and peered into the huge granite sarcophagi that once
-held the mummied sacred bulls. Then we rode to the tomb of Ti, and
-Ghesiri’s last lecture was about that gentleman.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_101">{101}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 405px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_101.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_101.jpg" width="405" height="292" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>Beni-Hassan.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_103">{103}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_102">{102}</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In the distance was Cairo; and even a view of the pyramids at Gizeh and
-the citadel failed to console us, and we still mourned our late month on
-the Nile. We took our last donkey-ride through the palms that now grow
-where Memphis once stood, and reached the <i>Nitocris</i> by sundown.</p>
-
-<p>By midday on the 10th, we shook hands with the crew and left the
-<i>Nitocris</i> tied to the bank where we had first found her, just as though
-nothing had happened; and, after all, what had happened was this: six
-more tourists had gone to the first cataract and back, and a few more
-Egyptian sketches had been made. For us the performance of the Nile was
-at an end, and we were once more in the streets on our way to the
-Ghezireh Hotel, with a determination to console ourselves with Cairo,
-which now looked to us, after our stay in the country, like a full-grown
-European capital.</p>
-
-<p>By January 10 the season had commenced<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_104">{104}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 313px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_104.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_104.jpg" width="313" height="221" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>At Philæ.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">and the prices of rooms had doubled. Since we left, several steamers
-from the west had brought an army of tourists, who were turning Africa
-into New York, London, and Paris. And at the Casino, in the Ghezireh
-Gardens, was as good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law allows, but
-such a poor one that even the Frenchmen who worked it seemed ashamed of
-themselves, and the New-Yorker who owned it was very seldom seen there.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_105">{105}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 483px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_105.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_105.jpg" width="483" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“As good an imitation of Monte Carlo as the law
-allows.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_107">{107}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_106">{106}</a></span>”</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p>At Shepheard’s there is always the man who has “been there before,” and
-like the same man at the play, he sits beside you and interprets the
-picture. You finally promise that you will not go to the <i>monskie</i>
-without him, and that you will not see the Sphinx by moonlight unless he
-is there; for if you do, not having been there before, you will be sure
-to go too early or too late. He says the moon should be at just such an
-angle and no other. The peddlers in the monskie know him, and while they
-entertain him with little cups of sweet tea they complain that they have
-had no luck since they last saw him, and they ask eagerly after that
-gentleman he brought to them the year before&#8212;the gentleman who had such
-exquisite taste and backed it up so generously with his money. And you
-drink their tea, and feel, as you leave the shops, after having only
-looked at their things, that they will never ask affectionately after
-you. The man who has been<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_108">{108}</a></span> there before generally walks in front of you,
-as if he were not as anxious to have you see the place as he is to have
-you see that he knows his way about; and, after all, it is no small
-thing to be proud of. If I ever go to the mouskie again, I shall pity
-the greenhorn who happens to be with me.</p>
-
-<p>The bazaars are dirty, and so many pasty-faced Turks squatting about in
-the filth grow tiresome. At first they are described in letters home as
-fascinating and picturesque, and whole days are spent with them, buying
-hundreds of things that are destined to be left in hotel bureau drawers
-and gradually lost. The souvenirs we buy in the mouskie seem to melt
-away. The precious stones we bought there turn to glass, the slippers
-become pasteboard, the gilt things tarnish, and the brass-work bends
-itself into old junk, and the mouskie is only a confused dream; so no
-wonder the old traveler is proud that he can actually find his<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_110">{110}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_109">{109}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 406px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_110.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_110.jpg" width="406" height="409" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>“The man who has ‘been there before.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_111">{111}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 318px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_111.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_111.jpg" width="318" height="287" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>In a Coffee-house, Cairo.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="nind">way about in it. He had probably begun to think that there never had
-been such a place.</p>
-
-<p>But Egypt is full of real things, and probably the most genuine thing of
-them all is the English occupation. Egypt herself is the best proof of
-how necessary to her well-being this is. It is hard to tell just how
-unhappy the fellaheen were before the English<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_112">{112}</a></span> came. The Egyptian is not
-the sort of man that complains. After centuries of oppression, he now
-accepts whatever form of government is offered in a browbeaten way, and
-shuffles along after his donkey, and pays his tax for bringing a few
-bundles of clover across the bridge into Cairo without a murmur; and,
-judging by his looks, I doubt if he would make much disturbance if he
-found, some morning, that the tax on his clover had been doubled. He
-evidently feels like a very small depositor in a broken bank. England is
-the largest creditor, and is straightening things out for them both, and
-he is satisfied.</p>
-
-<p>There never were so many cooks trying to spoil a broth. Before a
-consul-general is received by the Khedive, the Sultan of Turkey must
-first approve of him, and it is said that the Sultan allows months to go
-by before he gives his consent, which is his Oriental way of showing his
-authority. But Egypt is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_113">{113}</a></span> geographically so important that, in spite of
-herself, she will be saved, and with England’s help she will some day
-pay her debts, and in centuries to come the fellah may learn to hold his
-head up like the Nubian.</p>
-
-<p>There is no fear of Egypt becoming dull and commonplace, for if the East
-and the West should ever fight, it must be for the possession of her
-canal; and many an unborn soldier’s reputation will be made before the
-railroad that has started up the Nile’s valley reaches Cape Town. The
-same land that offers death and reputation to the strong gives life to
-the weak, and the tired rich man on his dahabiyeh and the soldier on the
-transport go up the Nile side by side, and in most cases they both find
-what they are in search of.</p>
-
-<p>Shepheard’s, in all probability, will forever remain a composite
-portrait of Europe and Asia, with Cairo as its frame. Time has made, and
-probably will continue to make,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_114">{114}</a></span> some slight alteration in Upper Egypt’s
-appearance; but the locomotive’s whistle will have difficulty in
-breaking the silence and calm of Karnak and Thebes. And the present
-indications are that Egypt will remain true to the Pharaohs of old, and
-until the judgment-day she will, in all probability (assisted by the
-Nile, who made her), continue to quietly resist the attentions of modern
-nations, and patiently wait for that last day.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_115">{115}</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 468px;">
-<a href="images/ill_pg_115.jpg">
-<img src="images/ill_pg_115.jpg" width="468" height="331" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a>
-<div class="caption"><p>At Komombos.</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a href="images/back.jpg">
-<img src="images/back.jpg" height="500" alt="[The
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