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diff --git a/old/68285-0.txt b/old/68285-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e5389be..0000000 --- a/old/68285-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3978 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Practical hints to builders and those -contemplating building, by National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Practical hints to builders and those contemplating building - Facts worth considering relating to foundation, cellar, kitchen, - chimney, cistern, brick-work, mortar, heating, ventilation, the - roof, and many items of interest to builders... - -Author: National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. - -Release Date: June 10, 2022 [eBook #68285] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS -AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING *** - - - - - - - PRACTICAL HINTS TO - BUILDERS - AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING. - - =Fourth Edition.= (145,000) - - Facts Worth Considering - RELATING TO - _Foundation, Cellar, Kitchen, Chimney, Cistern, Brick-work, Mortar, - Heating, Ventilation, The Roof, and many items - of interest to Builders._ - - _Copyrighted 1890, by_ THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - - The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. - SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF - =Walter’s Patent Standard, and Cooper’s Patent Queen Anne - Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates,= - 510 TO 520 EAST TWENTIETH STREET, NEW YORK CITY. - - Press of W. J. Pell, 92 John Street, New York. - 1890. - - - - -INDEX. - - - PAGE - - Architect, The, 4 - - Architects and Builders, 16 - - Brick-work, 34 - - Building.—Selecting a Site, 5 - - Buildings covered with Metal Shingles, 80 - - Buildings.—Old Materials, 42 - - Building.—Our Specialties, 95 - - Buildings, Sheet Metal Work for, 85 - - Building Paper, 47 - - Colors, 10, 48, 66 - - Chimneys, 17 - - Cellar, The, 22 - - Cistern, The, 46 - - Conductor or Leader Pipe, Cooper’s, 56 - - Construction, Inside, 83 - - Design for Cottages, 8, 12, 18, 24, 31, 38, 51, 58 - - Deadening and Fire-Proofing Floors, 60 - - Elbows, Cooper’s Curved, 76 - - Floors, Fire-Proofing, 60 - - Finials and How to Set Them, 73, 74 - - Foundation, The, 6 - - Guarantee, Our, 51 - - Gold Medal Award, 7 - - Heating, 44 - - Kitchen, The, 29 - - Metal Shingles, compared with Wood, 26 - - “ “ “ “ Slate, 36 - - “ “ “ “ Ordinary Tin Roofing, 37 - - “ “ Samples of, 30, 71 - - “ “ Queen Anne, 40 - - “ “ Directions for Laying, 61 - - “ “ How Made, 78 - - Measure, Surface, 41 - - Mortar? What is Good, 14 - - Roof Paint, 21, 39 - - “ Valleys or Gutters, 13, 23, 85 - - Roof, The, 28 - - “ Comparative Pitch of, 50 - - Roofing, Broad-Rib, 72 - - Ridge Coping, 54 - - Sheathing, The Best, 45 - - Testimonials, 87 - - Ventilation, 55, 73 - - What Our Goods Are, 20, 35, 68, 70, 77 - - Walter’s Patent and What It Is, 20 - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -Preface. - - -The object of this little book is to give to builders a few practical -hints that can be used in their endeavors to erect a home that is -proposed to be durable, comfortable and healthy. They are susceptible -of being improved to an extent that will meet the wishes of the most -extravagant builder, or simplified to suit purse and requirements of a -builder with moderate means. - -We have left out generalities, and offer the reader solid facts that are -valuable to every one engaged in the ever pleasant task of constructing a -home. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 TO 520 EAST TWENTIETH ST., - New York City. - - - - -Practical Hints to Builders. - - - - -THE ARCHITECT. - - -Shall we employ one? Yes, if the work is sufficiently important to -justify it, and it is a very modest house indeed that is not. - -As the professional architect is generally a graduate of one of the -building trades, and has gravitated to that position because of his -peculiar fitness for it, it stands to reason, some will think, that from -among the many builders one can be selected who is capable of taking the -contract and presiding as architect. To such persons we would say: You -are not familiar with the functions of an architect, when considered -separate from the builder. The architect can save you money. He discovers -your wants, your likes, and your dislikes; he reduces them to a tangible -form; he draws up the specifications so minutely that every variety of -material and labor is distinctly set forth as to its quality and kind. - -When completed, plans and specifications are presented to a builder for -an estimate; he knows exactly what is expected of him. There is no chance -for controversy or quibble; all has been settled by the owner through -his architect. In consequence, if several contractors estimate upon the -building, it is known that their figures are all upon the same basis. - -We will say in general he can save you from five to twenty per cent. in -cost; will give you better construction and proportions, and add a value -to your house, apart from its first cost, that if it does not sell for -more, it will sell more readily than if built without his service. - - - - -SELECTING A BUILDING SITE. - - -There are but few persons who are in a position to locate their proposed -home just where they would most desire it. But, fortunately, most any -building site is capable of being made to look well, it the style of -architecture selected harmonizes with the surroundings. - -It is of the first importance that the location be a healthy one. Better -rent all your life than ignore that. Avoid the neighborhood of swamps and -stagnant water, or where the cellar, (if you have one) to your house, -from the nature of the location, will be damp. Large bodies of water, -or running water is never unhealthy; but on the contrary, it is in many -ways conducive to health. Some very uninviting, rugged and neglected -spots, can, with but little expense and an appropriate building, be made -exceedingly beautiful. - -One of the prettiest school-houses I ever saw was built on a lot given -by a farmer for a district school. It did look as if the piece of ground -was worthless for any purpose; it was rocky, overgrown with briers and -bushes, and a tiny stream ran across the lot, jumping from rock to -rock, alongside of which, on a level spot but little larger than room -for a building, a house with steep roof and turret was built, and the -adjacent hillside made a splendid study and playground for the scholars. -When completed the building and grounds was a model of what a country -school-house should be. - -While an elevation is at all times desirable, a hill is not. The exposure -to the storms in winter, and the tiresome walk in summer, is to be -avoided. A few native trees, if on the ground to furnish shade, are -desirable. The water supply, too, is to be considered. Most architects -say a Southern exposure is the best, but this depends on your location. -For Southern homes the East is preferable. - - - - -FOUNDATION. - - -[Illustration] - -Just how deep to excavate to start the foundation of a house depends on -the climate and soil. Always dig trenches below the frost line in any -soil. This is sufficient if the subsoil is solid; if the subsoil is not -solid, go deep enough to reach solid earth. - -In saying this, we are supposing you are not building in a swamp, -where it is often necessary to drive piles upon which to start a solid -foundation. Stone is generally used for foundation walls where it is -convenient, and it makes the best. Hard pressed brick, laid with mortar -composed of one part of hydraulic lime and two parts sharp sand, makes -a foundation not inferior to stone for all practical purposes. By using -the above mortar, dampness will not ascend from the ground to injure the -floor joists. - -Mortar made from common lime or sand, though commonly used, is -objectionable for foundations, because dampness will ascend even above -the floor joists, if the floor is not several feet above the ground. It -is often the case that hydraulic lime cannot be conveniently had. In that -case a layer of slate or coarse paper, well saturated with pitch, laid -between the brick seams below the line of joists, will answer the same -purpose, and is less expensive. - -See that the space between the joists is filled with brick, flush with -the under-side of floor boards. This prevents Mr. Rat, or other members -of his interesting family, from sitting in these little corners and -gnawing into the room above, or climbing between the siding to the -upper floors. If this little matter is attended to right, neither rats -or mice can enter the house, except through the doors. To keep them from -burrowing underneath the foundation walls, let the thickness of one brick -project outward at the bottom of the foundation. On burrowing downward, -a rat soon reaches this shelf, and following it around till he arrives -at the place he started from, becomes disgusted, or is supposed to, as -he is not seen about the house again. It is always better to have the -foundation broader at the bottom than the thickness of wall intended to -be used. This is necessary in all brick houses, unless on a rock bottom. - -See that the space under the ground floor is left clear of rubbish -before the floor is laid, and grating built in the wall for ventilation. -This opening can be closed in winter to secure additional warmth. The -cellar is closely related to the foundation; we give some hints on its -construction on page 22. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: Fac-simile of Gold Medal awarded to WALTER’S PATENT -METALLIC SHINGLES. These shingles have received twenty-eight other awards -for merit in the United States.] - - * * * * * - -The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each -been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and -the proportions and details can be relied upon. - -[Illustration: _Design_ I.—_Front Elevation_. - -TEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $5,000 to $6,000. - -Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 Galvanized Tin Shingles; porches with -same; tower with 7 × 10, same quality; use attic vents on main roof, and -No. 1 Six-foot Finial on apex of tower.] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ - -_Second Floor._ - -_Design_ I.—(_Elevation, page 8._)] - - - - -COLORS.—For Exterior and Interior. - - -As your house nears completion, it is well to decide upon colors. That -is a distinctive feature which is to give tone and beauty, and make -your house in some respects different from all others. The question of -painting is often a mere matter of preserving the structure, and not a -question of beauty or harmony of colors, or what would be best suited -to the surroundings; it is too often the case that but little regard is -paid to those nice perceptions that make one man’s work many times more -valuable than another. Strong contrasts of color should be avoided. Light -tints are preferable to strong colors. Think of a house painted black, -red, yellow, or green. - -Let the surroundings suggest what the exterior colors should be. A house -surrounded by trees and shrubbery will admit of white, with white tinted -trimmings, such as cornices, corner-boards, window and door frames; but -for half the year the green foliage of the trees is turned to brown, -which but partially relieves the glaring white. This is why that color -is not a favorite for exteriors. As a rule, select a light color for the -body of the house, and darken that for the trimmings. - -For interior wood-work select light wood colors; let none be darker -than walnut. Oak, chestnut, ash, white walnut, maple and cherry make -a beautiful finish by simply oiling, and varnishing if a gloss is -preferred. Very light shades of ochre make beautiful ceilings which -can be ornamented with suitable designs, using darker but delicate -shades of other light colors. Here is where the taste and skill of the -painter comes in, and unless you are an adept, don’t fail to consult an -experienced decorator for your inside walls. - -For houses of moderate cost we think nothing is equal to solid colors -for inside walls. Let the colors be light and cheerful, and the rooms of -different shades. (See page 48). - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -If you are interested in _Roofing_, send for our Price List and Discount -Sheet, which is special to the trade. We are pioneers in the introduction -of practical metal shingles, and no imitator has yet produced their -equal. Our goods are largely used throughout the United States and -Canadas; are used by the Government and Railroads; approved by the Fire -Insurance Companies, and many leading Architects and Builders. They are -lighter than slate, and will last longer without repairs; and the low -rate of insurance on our roofing will, in a short time, more than balance -the difference in price where wood shingles are cheaper. - -As seen by the cut, our shingles are the same to-day as when first -introduced. Remember, no cleats or springs are necessary in using our -shingles. The lock is simple and perfect, with corrugations across the -top, and bracing corrugations across the exposed end of the shingles, -which stiffen and hold the shingles firmly to the underlying courses. -They are easily applied, and any one who can lay a wood shingle can lay -these. We furnish them in four sizes, made from charcoal roofing tin, -painted both sides and unpainted, galvanized tin plate, which is superior -to galvanized iron, cold rolled copper, and steel plates. We keep on hand -a full line of roofing sundries. - -[Illustration: Fac-simile of beginning of first two courses.] - -Our Shingles received the highest and only award for metal shingles at -the American Institute, held in this city, October, 1886, and New Orleans -Exposition, 1885. - -WHOLESALE AGENTS. - -_RICHARD KNISELY & SON, 184 South Jefferson St., Chicago, Ills._ - -_W. W. MONTAGUE & CO., San Francisco, Cal., Pacific Coast._ - -_J. J. WALTERS, Denver, Col._ - -_PHILLIPS & BUTTORFF MFG. Co., Nashville, Tenn._ - -_CANADA GALVANIZING AND STEEL ROOFING CO., Montreal, Canada._ - -_MACHWIRTH BROS., Buffalo, N.Y._ - -_JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo._ - -_F. H. LAWSON & CO., Cincinnati, Ohio._ - -The National Sheet Metal Roofing Company, 510, 512, 514, 516, 518, 520 -EAST 20TH ST., NEW YORK, U. S. A. - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ C.—_Front and Side Elevation._ - -SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $1,800 to $2,000.] - - - - -ROOF VALLEYS OR GUTTERS. - - -It is generally known to builders and roofers that the greatest amount -of wear upon all kinds of roofs is in the valleys or gutters. Therefore, -that part of the roof, whether covered with slate, tin or wood shingles, -should be of the best material, and free from the annoying possibility of -cracking. - -This trouble is always caused by expansion and contraction of the metal. -The usual method is to make the valley of the desired length, and, after -shaping to the roof-boards, to nail each side firmly. The result is, -with the summer heat, a buckle is often formed at some point between -the two ends. In cold weather the buckle draws out, and in course of -time, if the joints in the middle do not give way, a leak will appear, -caused by the metal cracking. This will not occur with our roof valleys, -because we amply provide for the expansion and contraction of the same. -We particularly call the attention of dealers in building material to -our Queen Anne Valley. It is salable, durable and cheap, always ready to -apply; can be used by any workman capable of laying slate, tin or wood -shingles. (See page 23). - -THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ - -_Second Floor._ - -_Design_ C.—(_Elevations, page 12._)] - -[Illustration] - - - - -WHAT IS GOOD MORTAR? - - -To a casual observer mortar is mud, but to a builder who understands the -chemistry of mortar it is a compound of water, lime and sand, and when -properly prepared forms an indestructible cement. Fresh slacked lime, -when brought in contact with clean, sharp sand, adheres strongly to the -surface of each grain, and forms the silicate of lime. - -At the same time the drying mortar absorbs carbonic acid from the -atmosphere, forming with it lime-stone, which in time becomes a rock in -solidity. Now, all mortar is good or bad in proportion to the purity of -the ingredients and their relative affinity for each other. The adhesive -properties of mortar are nullified by loam or clay in sand, or the stale -condition of lime used. - -Loam mortar adheres freely to the surface of walls or ceilings. So does -mud if thrown against an upright surface; but water dissolves it. It -dries quickly, but does not harden with age. The foundation of many -frame, and the entire walls of many brick houses are built with poor -mortar, when the materials for good could be had at the same price. - -Water, lime, sand and hair are the ingredients for plasterers’ mortar -in about the following proportions: One bushel unslacked lime and four -bushels sharp sand; (to this add twenty-four pounds of dry hair for every -one hundred yards, when used for “scratch” or first coat,) and water -sufficient to make it of proper consistency. After being properly mixed, -the mortar should stand from three to ten days before using. However, -the time it should stand depends upon the susceptibility of the lime to -slack. Some lime requires a month, while good lime slacks immediately. -Age improves mortar, provided it is kept wet, and makes it work easier -under the workman’s trowel. As it is the keys formed by pressing the -mortar against the lathing on the ceiling that holds it to its place, -there should be a relative width of lath and key space to insure strength -sufficient to prevent its falling. Ignorance of this, and poor mortar, -is the cause of falling ceilings. Lath one inch wide, 7/16 inches thick, -placed 7/16 inches apart will insure good strong work. - -The second coat needs but a very small quantity of hair. Fifty bushels -sand, and twelve and one-half bushels unslacked lime, will make mortar -enough to cover one hundred square yards. If mortar freezes before it is -dry it loses its cementing properties and becomes in common phase rotten, -but if the sand used is clean, and it remains frozen without thawing -until it is dry, it is not injured. The best way to treat a house in -which the plastering is not dry, and cannot be kept from freezing before -it dries, is to throw the house open, and let it freeze for eight or ten -days, or until the plastering freezes dry. - -Cisterns should be plastered inside with mortar made of equal parts of -hydraulic lime and clean sand. For brick work above foundations use one -part unslacked lime to four parts sand. - - * * * * * - - “THE INDEPENDENT,” 251 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, October 28th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—The shingles from your respected concern used on my - new house look splendidly, and give entire satisfaction. They - are far better than any metal shingles I have previously used - on other buildings, which I have had torn off and thrown away - as worthless. At times we were flooded by the water under their - (want of) protection, and we could not stop the leaks. Noah in - the ark I am sure was, fortunately, not troubled with leaks - such as we endured for years; if he had been all would have - been drowned. Now, under your protection, we are all right and - still alive. - - Faithfully, - - HENRY C. BOWEN, - CHANDLER. - - - - -TO ARCHITECTS AND BUILDERS. - - -There is no detail of house building more important than the roof. Upon -it depends to a great degree the durability and preservation of the -whole structure. The number of good houses with mottled ceilings and -cracked plastering, to be seen all over the country, are reminders of the -necessity of securing the best material and faultless construction for -this important part of your dwelling. - -The advantages we claim for our Tin Shingle, over the ordinary mode of -applying sheet metal for roofing purposes, consists in its =Superior -Strength, Freedom from Wrinkles and Cracking=, (which cannot at all -times be prevented where sheet metal is put on in continuous sheets); -and in being the =Most Ornamental and Durable= of all sheet metal roof -coverings. Now, in answer to this last assertion you may say, How can -this be? Is not the same quality of tin as durable when applied in one -form as another? We answer, By no means. The writer—and we presume the -reader—has seen tin roofs worked, and walked over in the necessary -finishing up, to such an extent as to seriously damage the roof. The Tin -Roofers’ mallets, seamers, tongs, and sliding over the roof, do more real -damage to the surface of tin plate than several years’ wear. We entirely -overcome this difficulty, as no part of the exposed surface of our Tin -Shingles are struck with a mallet or hammer in applying them. Again, -where metal plates are put together in continuous sheets, moisture, -which condenses underneath for want of ventilation, settles in the -cross-seams and causes decay, and the ordinary metal roof when removed -invariably shows this to be the case, while the other part of the plate -shows no perceptible wear. Our form of metal roofing has no cross-seams, -and has sufficient ventilation to prevent the condensation of moisture -underneath, making it by many years the most durable form of metal -roofing ever offered to the American people. - -Our object is to furnish the building public with a better form of -roofing material, attractive in appearance, without the objections of the -heavy slate, the clumsy shingle, or the plain ribbed metal roof; and at a -price that claims the attention of Architects and Builders of the whole -country. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 TO 520 EAST TWENTIETH ST., - New York City. - - - - -CHIMNEYS. - - -[Illustration] - -We will not moralize on the evils of smoky chimneys, but just tell you -in plain language how to construct them so they will not smoke. Make -the throat of the fire-place not more than half the size of the flue; -carefully smooth the inside of the flue, and have it of the same area -all the way to near the top of the chimney, when it should be gradually -tapered inward to about half the area of the flue. At the extreme top, -the cap stone should slant from the opening in all directions downward -at an angle of about twenty degrees. This will insure a good draught and -prevent the smoke blowing downward. No two fire-places should enter the -same flue; neither should a stove-pipe enter a flue unless the fire-place -is closed. Each stove and fire-place should have its own flue. The size -necessary for a flue depends on the fuel to be used. - -Soft or Bituminous coal requires a flue nearly double the size of one -where Anthracite is to be used; an open fire-place for wood, larger flues -than either. For instance, an 8 × 8 inch flue answers for Anthracite, -because it makes but little soot, while if Bituminous coal is used, 8 × -12 is none too large. - -You will find in houses all over the country flues smaller than the -above, and a corresponding number of smoky chimneys, which it is -impossible to remedy without re-building from the bottom up. - -The carelessness displayed in chimney construction is astonishing. As -the work is hid from view on completion, be watchful during the process -of construction from the ground up. All chimneys should, if possible, -extend above the apex or comb of roof, and should be built of good hard -burnt brick, and no woodwork should be allowed to enter within five -inches of inside of flue, and not within twelve inches anywhere near the -fire-place. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ H.—_Front Elevation._ - -EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,500 to $4,000. - -Roof covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with Queen -Anne; second story, sides, with 7 × 10 Standard Tin Shingles; and porches -with Broad Rib Tin Roofing; use No. 2 Five-foot Finial on tower.] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ H.—(_Elevation, page 18._)] - - * * * * * - -A retired plumber thus gives a point for the gratuitous relief of -householders: “Just before retiring at night pour into the clogged pipe -enough liquid soda lye to fill the ‘trap’ or bent part of the pipe. Be -sure that no water runs in it until the next morning. During the night -the lye will convert all the offal into soft soap, and the first current -of water in the morning will wash it away and clear the pipe clean as -new.” - - - - -THE WALTER’S PATENT, AND WHAT IT IS. - - -Previous to the granting of a patent to John Walter, in 1882, there were -no tin shingles manufactured for the trade in the United States, with the -exception of those which covered more than two-thirds of their surface -to get one-third exposed to the weather; the same is commonly done with -wood shingles. This made them too expensive for general use. The Walter’s -patent made it practical to expose five-sixths of the surface and only -conceal one-sixth of the shingle. This great saving at once reduced the -cost of metal shingles over one-half, and enabled the National Sheet -Metal Roofing Co., which controls this patent, to put on the market the -best metal roofing in the world, at prices that compete with ordinary -wood shingles. (See “Comparative Cost,” pages 26 and 27.) - -How this was done is best expressed in the claim granted the patentee, -copied from the United States Official Gazette: - - “A metal roofing plate having a gutter formed by corrugations - at one side, and a perforated flange at the side of the gutter, - whereby it shall be nailed to the roof of a house; a broad - corrugation at the other side adapted to form a seam with the - adjoining edge of a corresponding plate, substantially as shown - and described.” - -[Illustration] - -The advantage of this lock is that it makes a water-tight seam without -soldering or hammering down. The plates are joined as easy as crossing -two sticks, with ample provision for expansion and contraction. This lock -is the perfection of simplicity; there is no exposed seam where water is -liable to lodge and cause rust; no cleats are used, and no tin springs -are necessary to hold the side edges of connecting plates to prevent -water seeping through. - - - - -PAINTING SHEET-METAL ROOFS. - - -The subject of painting sheet-metal roofs is one of great importance, -says the _Builder, Decorator and Wood-Worker_, not only on account of the -protection afforded, but because the material, when properly colored, can -be made pleasant to the eye when placed in exposed positions. While many -kinds of paint have been discovered and patented, composed of a great -variety of materials, it is a question if there is a substance used that -is an effective substitute for linseed oil, regarding the effectiveness -of which an authority on the subject says: “By consulting experienced -and unbiased painters you will learn the fact that there is no vehicle -pigments at all approaching linseed oil in effectiveness and durability, -especially for exposure to the weather. A good paint must be both hard -and elastic. It requires hardness to prevent abrasion and wear, and -elasticity to prevent cracking from expansion and contraction. Nothing -but linseed oil will give these qualities, for, strange as it may seem to -many in these days of novelties, the pigments really add but very little -to the effectiveness of paints. Mark, we say the best of pigments, for -many pigments are the reverse of protective, and are really destructive -to both the vehicles and the material which they are supposed to protect. -For example, coal tar and all its products, whether called dead oil, -asphalt, rubber, etc., are of the class just described, and their use at -any price, especially for covering sheet-metals, is a wanton waste of -money. Extended experiments have demonstrated that there is no better -pigment for metal than a good iron ore ground to an impalpable powder. To -be most thoroughly effective the pigment must be intimately incorporated -with the vehicle, which can best be done only by grinding them together -in a stone mill by steam power.” It is of the greatest importance that -sheet-metal roofs, especially those made of iron, should be protected -from the action of the elements, as when so protected there is hardly -any limit to the time they will last. In order that the paint should be -effective, it should be applied before the iron has had an opportunity -to rust, and the first coat should be of the best quality and applied -in the best manner; or if it is defective it is plain that it will not -only require repainting far sooner than it should, but no matter how -good the subsequent coatings of paint are, they cannot be effective if -founded on an original coating which has commenced to crack or peel, as -it certainly will if not prepared with the best methods and materials. -Another important point to be observed in the painting of sheet-metal is -that the paint should not be too thick, as it is the linseed oil that is -to be depended on to furnish protection, and as the action of the air on -the surface of the exposed oil gives it a particularly hard surface, two -thin coats of paint are much more durable than one thick one. - -Remember, it is the =rust-preventing= qualities of linseed oil, combined -with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the -corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. (See -page 101.) - - - - -THE CELLAR. - - -The cellar under a dwelling house has many advocates. It is a convenient, -cool place, and nineteen times out of twenty is a damp, dark, musty, -foul-smelling place. It cannot well be otherwise and be a cellar. It is a -store-room for all sorts of vegetables; odds and ends of most everything -are laid away in that dark retreat. It is the favorite resort of spiders, -toads and other creeping things; it is the unrelenting enemy (?) of the -family physician, the breeding-place of malaria, which unceasingly sends -its poisonous vapors into every part of the dwelling above it. It would -be suicide for one to make it their sleeping room. - -But if you insist upon having a cellar under your house, and will not -put it under the corn-crib or carriage-house, see that it is properly -constructed. This is more important than most of the other parts of the -house, for upon it in a great measure depends the health of your entire -family. - -The floor of the cellar should be hard and dry, with no woodwork in -its construction. To obtain this result, cover the floor about three -inches deep with coarse gravel, or broken stone, well pounded to a level -surface. Fill this with a thin mortar, composed of one part hydraulic -cement and two parts sharp sand, smoothing it off with a trowel or -plasterer’s level. When we mention sharp sand, we mean coarse, clean sand. - -Build a flue, say 8 × 12 inches (with an opening next to the floor of the -cellar fully that size), from the bottom of cellar foundation alongside -of and extending to top of kitchen chimney, the heat of which will create -a constant, upward current of air from the cellar. On the opposite side -of cellar from this ventilating flue make an air inlet near the ceiling -for the purpose of supplying fresh air to the cellar. This will keep -the cellar dry and the atmosphere healthy. Put a wire netting over the -opening to prevent the entrance of rats and mice. If from the nature of -the location, or other causes, a cellar is damp, dig a trench all around -a little below and outside of the foundation wall; this trench should be -covered with flat stones and earth filled in a little above the surface -line, so that surface water will flow from, and not settle next to, the -foundation walls. When the cellar is completed whitewash the walls and -ceiling. - - - - -OUR “QUEEN ANNE” VALLEY, FOR SLATE, TIN OR WOOD SHINGLES. - - -[Illustration] - -Patented October 30th, 1883. - -This cut fairly illustrates our improvement. The corrugations at the -side keep the edges rigid, and prevent the edges from _dipping_ into any -space that may be between the roof boards where they are not laid close. -Besides this, they dispense with the necessity of chalk lines, and hold -the shingle or slate from lying close upon the metal, preventing decay -both of wood and metal. A convenience and benefit to every builder. - -_To be used where the pitch of the roof is equal to that necessary in -using the ordinary shingle._ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ G.—_Front Elevation._ - -EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,000 to $3,500. - -Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with -7 × 10, same quality; and porches with Broad-Rib Tin Plate Roofing.] - - * * * * * - - SMITHTOWN BRANCH, L. I., November 27th, 1886. - - Dear Sirs:—During the recent very heavy storms—wind and - rain—the roof on my house, put on with Walter’s Patent Tin - Shingles, _stood the test_; not a single leak has ever been - discovered, not even around the chimneys, valleys, nor where - the roof of the wing butts up against the main building. The - work was done in April last, and never leaked, and I think - _never will_, as long as the material lasts. - - You will remember how reluctant I was to try the shingles, - but I am now glad that I did so, for I not only have a good - first-class roof—fire-proof—but I also have the _handsomest_ - roof in our town. I promised you I would come in and see you, - and tell you how I liked the shingles, but not having done so, - I write you this. - - Yours very truly, - - COE D. SMITH. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ G.—(_Elevation, page 24._)] - - * * * * * - - NEW BEDFORD, MASS., June 24th, 1887. - - Gentlemen:—The Metallic Shingles, which were put on by you on - the roof of the New Bristol County Jail and House of Correction - at this place, are entirely satisfactory in every respect, the - manner in which the plates are rolled overcoming all objections - to the expansion and contraction of the metal. Those that were - put on here were of hard rolled copper, and have now turned a - beautiful bronze color, and is very much admired by all who - have seen it. The roof cannot but be an extremely desirable - roof, and I do not see that it can need repairs of any kind for - years to come. - - Yours very truly, - - ROBERT H. SLACK, Architect. - - - - -WOOD AND METAL SHINGLES. - - -COMPARATIVE COST. - -[Illustration] - -We are often asked if our metal shingles are as cheap as wood shingles. -While we cannot consistently say they are not; still, if we say they are, -they refer to our price list, which necessitates an explanation something -like this: - -We will suppose a dwelling is to be built to cost, say $2,500. Such a -house will usually require about 20 squares of roof covering, which, -if done with wood shingles, fixes the cost of fire insurance about -one-quarter of one per cent. higher than a metal roof during its -existence. This extends not only to the house, but all contained in such -roofed houses. And this is the case, no matter how good the wood shingles -are. - -In making this comparison, we will consider such shingles as are -generally used in the older settled portions of the country. We are aware -that shingles made from well-matured timber, straight-grained, free from -sap and wind-shakes, full length, hand drawn to five-eighths of an inch -at the butt, four inches wide, and carefully put on make a good, durable -roof. But shingles of that kind are only to be had in the thinly settled -portions of the country. - -It is the broad, thin, split or sawed shingles, found in all markets, -which we contend are more expensive than our metal shingles. These do -not last, on an average, more than fifteen years, and after ten years -the repairs are a continual expense until removed and replaced with new -material, which is not often done until some of the woodwork is badly -damaged, and ceiling cracked and stained from frequent leakages. On the -other hand, _tin shingles will last for any length of time, if painted -once in every five or six years, and show no perceptible wear_. - -Cost of a TIN SHINGLE Roof for a period of Fifteen Years. - - Twenty squares of Tin Shingles, at $6.75 per square $135 00 - Labor of putting on same 10 00 - One coat of paint after roof is laid 8 00 - -------- - Total cost of same $153 00 - - One coat of paint at expiration of five years 10 00 - One coat of paint at expiration of ten years 10 00 - One coat of paint at expiration of fifteen years 10 00 - Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at one-half of - one per cent. per annum 187 50 - ------- - Total cost at expiration of fifteen years $370 50 - -Cost of a WOOD SHINGLE Roof for a Period of Fifteen Years. - - Twenty squares of Wood Shingles, at $3.75 per square $65 00 - Putting on same 20 00 - Expense of five years’ repairs, after expiration of - ten years; damage to roof and ceiling caused by - leakage not counted 15 00 - Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at three-quarters - of one percent. per annum 281 25 - Expense of covering at expiration of fifteen years 85 00 - ------- - Total $466 25 - - =Making a difference in favor of Tin Shingles in a - period of fifteen years of= =$95.75= - - - - -THE ROOF. - - -[Illustration: (For Finials, see page 74.)] - -A roof for your house is indispensable, and because it is so, let it -be a good one. No part of your house is subject to the same amount of -exposure, and there is no part independent of its protection. If you have -built for the personal comfort of yourself and family, do not slight -the roof because cheap, plain material is the most convenient. There is -really no economy in doing so. It is outside, to be sure, but, like the -chimney, it is a necessity. As we cannot ignore it, we must try to make -it, as a part of the house, attractive. No money spent on the house will -add more to its selling value than that expended in taste and material -for the roof. - -[Illustration] - -The difference expended in favor of good material adds to every part -of the structure. The roof is about the first thing the prospective -purchaser sees. He cannot help it; it is right before his eyes. His first -impressions are the hardest to overcome. - -A good roof must be, first, rain-proof; second, fire-proof; third, light -in weight; fourth, durable; fifth, ornamental; sixth, not liable to get -out of order. You can have your house covered with such a roof, and not -pass the limited boundaries of economy. - -Read carefully the pages of this little book devoted to roofing materials -and sundries. - - - - -THE KITCHEN. - - -Somehow, our architects and builders habitually neglect to study the -requirements of the kitchen, but persist in constructing for this use a -plainly constructed room, generally cramped in size, with no means of -escaping the great heat generated by the range or stove, which in the -hot months of summer is almost unbearable. If men were often obliged to -remain in such a place, a large part of the day during the hot season, -they would be quick to seize upon any plan which would mitigate the heat. -But as their wives, daughters or “help” preside in that department, they -offer no amendment to the long-established mode of kitchen construction. - -Now, a kitchen can be so constructed that even with the largest size -family-stove or range in use, it will be as comfortable as any other room -in the house, and at an expense not to exceed the cost of the stove or -range used. To do this, build of brick a large open fire-place, say from -three to twelve inches broader than the length of the stove or range -to be used, and from front to rear deep enough to receive the same. -It is best to set an ordinary cook-stove with the side to the front, -so that the oven door can be convenient. The oven door, of course, on -the opposite side is permanently closed. The range being differently -constructed can readily be set in the brick enclosure or open fire-place, -the walls of which should be built perpendicular to the floor, and about -five feet high. The back wall should be sufficiently thick to commence -at this point a smoke-flue 8 × 12 inches, with an opening to receive the -smoke-pipe from the range or stove, and continue it out through the roof -of house (see “Chimneys”); resting on the walls of this open fire-place -build, either with wood or brick, a tapering flue, so that after emerging -from the roof it will expose an opening of not less than four square -feet. A cap should be put over this to prevent an entrance of rain, but -not to contract the draught space. - -You will see by this arrangement you have a large chimney with a -fire-place at the bottom large enough to receive the stove or range. -Now construct a sliding sash with double strength glass, and balanced -with weights, with the upper end of sash inside the draught flue, and the -lower end to reach within a foot of the floor, and about four inches from -the side of stove. You will readily perceive that the heat from the stove -inside the flue will constantly cause a strong draught between the bottom -of the sash and the floor, which will prevent heat from escaping into the -kitchen, keeping it as cool as any room in the house. Even with the sash -up, the draught will take nearly all the heat through the flue over the -stove, carrying with it the steam and odor during the process of cooking. -A coat of whitewash inside the brick-work will add to the appearance and -give light, which is shadowed by the flue. - -The kitchen should be large and light, and, if possible, be joined by a -broad covered porch, upon which much of the kitchen work can be done in -warm weather. - -As this little book is merely hints to builders, we cannot go into the -details of hot and cold water, stationary wash-tubs and such matters. But -we will say, more important than all this is a well-constructed drain -pipe, not less than three inches in diameter, leading from the kitchen -sink to a point some distance (according to the nature of the ground) -from the house. This pipe inside the kitchen, should have a trap to -prevent offensive odors escaping into the room. - - - - -SAMPLE SHINGLES. - - -We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our WALTER’S PATENT -SHINGLES (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt -of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but -we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in -building. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, - New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ F.—_Front Elevation._ - -SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,300 to $2,600.] - - * * * * * - -BRONZE METAL SHINGLES.—We believe we are the first to offer Bronze Metal -Shingles to the World; certainly the first to manufacture them in the -United States. No other metal known for house covering is their equal, -not excepting copper, which in its pure state is rather soft and pliable, -unless of a weight to practically exclude its use. - -Bronze Metal is hard, rigid and sufficiently ductile to make the most -serviceable roofing material for public and first-class private buildings -in the world. Any house designed to exist as a memorial of man’s sagacity -and thrift should be covered with these shingles. They are as enduring as -marble; they will wear for any length of time. - -We make them in three sizes—7 by 10, 10 by 14, and Queen Anne style. -Prices furnished upon application. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - Office, 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ F.—_Side Elevation._ - -Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with -7 × 10, same quality; and porches with Broad-Rib Tin Roofing. Use attic -ventilators and lights (see page 73) on main roof.] - - * * * * * - - LITITZ, PA., February 27th, 1885. - - Dear Sirs:—I was the first man in this town to cover my new - house, built last summer, with Walter’s Patent Charcoal Tin - Shingles, and will say that they have given, thus far, entire - satisfaction. They are not only ornamental but durable, and - since my roof has introduced them in our town, a great many - have been put on, all giving satisfaction. I am sure that this - is the material for roofing houses in the future. They are - better than any other roof now in use, and will take the place - of wood shingles, which are getting scarce, and also of slate - roofs, which are broken by storms. Mine has stood the test - of the severest storms, during the summer and winter, known - here for many years, and has proven itself what you claim it - is—absolutely wind, rain and storm-proof. - - JOHNSON MILLER, Secretary. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ F.—(_Elevations, pages 31 and 32._)] - - * * * * * - - CEDAR BLUFF, ALA., February 20th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Enclosed find exchange for one hundred and forty and - 50/100 dollars to cover bill roofing. - - I am delighted with the Walter’s shingle, and the universal - verdict of all who have seen my roof is that it is a perfect - beauty. You will hear from me again, and you may expect other - orders from this place. - - Yours truly, - - R. LAWRENCE. - - - - -BRICK-WORK. - - -“Brick from the run of the kiln” will answer for most houses; those of -even color, well-burnt and regular shape, should be selected for the -outside walls and chimneys. Those of irregular shape, too hard or too -soft for outside walls, can be used for filling in, or partition walls. -No soft burnt brick should be allowed where exposed to the weather. -Supposing the foundation is finished, and first-floor joists are laid, -commence by filling between joists, flush with the top of joists and even -with the inside of foundation walls, so no shelves are left between the -joists for the purpose shown in hints under the head of “Foundation,” -page 6. - -If the inside of outside walls are to be furred, be prepared to insert -strips about the thickness of common lath between brick joints at points -where base boards are to be put, and to fasten long strips or grounds as -called by plasterers. No mortar should be put between the lath strip and -the brick, but let the lath be pressed by the surface of the upper and -lower brick; the natural settling of the wall will hold the lath tight -enough to bear any amount of nailing. - -For doors and windows, insert pieces same thickness, but large enough to -receive the casings. These thin pieces inserted in the mortar joints are -better and cheaper than plugs or wooden brick, which are apt to shrink -and become loose when the brick-work dries. It is very important that -flues for ventilation and chimneys be properly started (see “Chimneys”) -and carried through the roof to a height, if possible, above the apex -of the roof. Ventilating flues should run alongside the chimney flues -where the construction favors them. Too much care cannot be taken in -building these flues. They should be carefully and smoothly plastered on -the inside, and no wood-work be allowed nearer than five inches from the -inside of flue. It is customary to use headers (cross bricks) every five -courses, to bind the walls together. Many people object to headers, and -prefer to expose only the edge surface of the brick. This can be done by -clipping the inside courses of outside brick so as to allow the middle -course to lay angular across the wall, with opposite courses resting half -way between and on the outside courses, or by using square brick. The -latter is a saving of labor if they can be had at a reasonable price. -The thickness of walls depends entirely upon the size of structure to be -built. For ordinary dwelling-houses, twelve inches is thick enough for -outside walls and nine inches for partition walls. Mortar for brick-work -above foundation should be made of one part of good lime, slacked at -time of mixing the mortar, and four parts of screened sharp sand. The -cementing qualities of sand and fresh lime depend on the purity of the -sand. By pure sand we mean that which is free from loam or clay. - - - - -STANDARD CHARCOAL ROOFING TIN SHINGLES. - - -Our Standard Charcoal Roofing Tin Shingles are made of such brands as -“Mansel,” “Dean,” “Worcester,” “P. T. L.” &c., and guaranteed to be -first-class, well-coated plates, perfect in finish. Next comes our -Galvanized (re-dipped) shingle; this is our Standard Tin Shingle, taken -after it is made and dipped into melted zinc, adding a second coat -of fully twenty pounds on each square, giving with the tin, a more -durable coating than that used on galvanized iron, making it absolutely -rust-proof and saving painting. Next is what we call “Old Process” or “M. -F.” This is what is known as “Old Style,” “Double-Dipped,” “Old Method,” -and other names, but what is really a very superior article of roofing -plate, having a much heavier coating than “Standard,” but, like it, has -to be painted. There are many brands of practically one quality in the -market, and, having no choice ourselves, we supply the brand preferred; -but if the best is asked for, we send “Old Process,” believing it to be -equal to any. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - - - - -THINGS ARE ONLY GOOD OR BAD BY COMPARISON. - - -WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES COMPARED WITH SLATE. - -Our shingles are not one-sixth the weight of slate, which greatly reduces -the cost of the frame-work of roof. They readily conform to the shape of -a roof, which slate will not do. Slate is not thoroughly fire-proof, as -heat from an adjoining building on fire will cause the slate to crack, -which would destroy the best roof in a few minutes, leaving the sheeting -exposed. Especially is this the case if water is thrown on them while hot. - -Our shingles are free from the many accidents to which slate roofs are -liable, such as cracking from shrinkage of wood-work to which they -are attached; breaking, caused by necessary repairs to the valleys or -chimneys; and the effect of frost on defective slate. Such defects cannot -always be avoided by ordinary observation. All builders of experience are -aware of the expensive repairs necessary to keep a slate roof in good -order, but perhaps the most inconsistent thing connected with the whole -roofing business is the fact that nineteen-twentieths of all the houses -covered with slate =have gutters lined with the same material of which -our shingles are made=, while slate was used for covering because of its -supposed durability. - -Should anything fall on our shingles it would probably dent them -without causing a break; but should it perforate them, the shingles can -be replaced by another, or a leak can be soldered, and fire from an -adjoining roof cannot more than injure the paint. They will cool off -rapidly, retaining their shape. - - -WALTER’S PATENT TIN SHINGLES COMPARED WITH ORDINARY TIN ROOFING. - -Of this we speak with the advantage of many years’ experience as -practical roofers. The great difficulty metal roofers have to contend -with is contraction and expansion of the metal under the changes of -temperature. This cause alone calls for continued repairs in all flat -lock or standing seam roofs, and the seams underneath are receptacles for -any moisture which may condense on the underside of the metal. All such -roofs first show decay in the cross seams, and this, while the body of -the plates shows no sign of decay. Our shingles have no cross seam, and -are sufficiently ventilated to prevent condensation of moisture; while -a glance at their construction shows at once that the difficulty caused -by contraction and expansion is successfully overcome. Our shingles do -not require the skilled labor which is necessary to lay the flat lock or -standing groove metal roofing, while the time required to lay a given -surface is much less. - -In estimating the difference of cost between the ordinary tin roofing and -our shingle, a steep roof house alone must be taken in consideration, as -our shingle is not proposed for a flat roof. (See “Comparative Cost,” -pages 26 and 27.) - - - - -ROOFING SUNDRIES. - - -We were the first to manufacture a full line of Valley, Hip and Ridge -Coping, Gable, &c., to enable the builder or roofer to use them at -a reasonable price, and are the only factory in America prepared to -furnish such trimming in any quantity; and while they are not absolutely -necessary, they greatly lessen the amount of labor and cost of laying, -besides adding a finish to the roof not otherwise obtained, so that the -saving in labor will pay the additional cost. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ E.—_Front and Side Elevation._ - -SIX-ROOM COTTAGE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,000 to $2,300. - -Use Broad-Rib Steel Plate with attic vents (see page 73) for roof, and 10 -× 14 No. 2 Metal Shingles for gables.] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ E.—_Elevations, page 38._] - - * * * * * - -ROOF PAINT.—We use the best Brown Mineral Oxide of Iron, roasted and -double-ground, mixed with boiled linseed oil, grinding them together, and -adding only enough turpentine to dry in the air in seventy-two hours. -We first dip the shingles, and after they have stood a short time, and -before the paint has set, they are carefully gone over with a brush, -insuring an even, perfect coat, not obtainable in any ordinary way of -painting. - - * * * * * - -All tin roofers, who have experience, know the importance of putting on -a second coat. In spite of the best care in laying, more or less paint -is scratched off, and without a second coat the roof is not finished. -Architects and builders always require it, and if a heavy single coat -of paint is given the roof every five or six years, there will be no -perceptible wear on the tin, insuring many years’ service. - - - - -OUR NEW PATENT. - - -[Illustration: Patented April 4th, 1882. Patented Nov. 8th, 1887.] - -Our Queen Anne Shingles are designed expressly to meet a want often -expressed for an attractive and artistic roof covering and outside -decorating. They are not intended to take the place of our Standard -Walter’s Patent, which for general use are incomparable, but less -ornamental than the Queen Anne Shingles. They have bold clean cut lines, -producing, from the effects of light and shade, the most striking and -artistic roof yet produced by metallic shingles or tiles. - -For church spires, belt coursing, towers or mansard roofing, they cannot -be excelled. The cut illustrates the kind of finish used at the eaves and -verge board. The same ridge coping used for our Standard Shingles can be -used for this. This shingle must be seen to be appreciated. - -We recommend the Bronze Metal, or the Galvanized Shingles for use on -public or first-class private buildings, because such buildings should be -covered with the best roofing material to be had. - - * * * * * - -Each superficial foot of brick wall, - - 4 inches thick requires 7 brick. - 8 “ “ “ 15 “ - 12 “ “ “ 22 “ - 16 “ “ “ 29 “ - 20 “ “ “ 37 “ - 24 “ “ “ 45 “ - - * * * * * - -SURFACE MEASURE.—All roofers compute roofing jobs by squares, which -means 100 square feet, or 10 feet square. If you go to your architect or -roofer and ask him how much it will take or cost to cover your roof, he -will first ascertain how many square feet there are to be covered; and -if, for example, there are 2,500 square feet he will tell you there are -twenty-five squares to be covered; and in order to intelligently supply -what is wanted, we put up our shingles in boxes of one square each; that -is to say, each box of one square will cover one hundred square feet -after they have been put on. - - - - -OLD MATERIALS. - - -In tearing down old work be as careful as in putting up new. - -Old material should never be destroyed simply because it is old. - -When putting away old stuff see that it is protected from rain and the -atmosphere. - -It costs about 15 per cent. extra to work up old material, and this -fact should be borne in mind, as I have known several contractors who -paid dearly for their “whistle” in estimating on working up second-hand -material. - -These remarks apply to wood-work only. In using old bricks, stone, slate -and other miscellaneous materials, it is as well to add double price for -working up. - -Workmen do not care to handle old material, and justly so. It is ruinous -to tools, painful to handle, and very destructive to clothing. - -In my experience I always found it pay to advance the wages of -workmen—skilled mechanics—while working up old material. This encouraged -the men and spurred them to better efforts. - -Sash frames, with sash weights, locks and trim complete, may be taken out -of old buildings that are being taken down and preserved just as good as -new by screwing slats and braces on them, which not only keeps the frame -square, but prevents the glass from being broken. - -Doors, frames and trims may also be kept in good order until used, by -taking the same precautions as in window frames. - -Old scantlings and joists should have all nails drawn or hammered in -before piling away. - -Counters, shelving, drawers and other store-fittings should be kindly -dealt with. They will be wanted sooner or later. - -Take care of the locks, hinges, bolts, keys and other hardware. Each -individual piece represents money in a greater or lesser sum. - -Old flooring can seldom be utilized, though I have seen it used for -temporary purposes, such as fencing, covering of veranda floors while -finishing work on plastering, etc. As a rule, however, it does not pay to -take it up carefully and preserve it. Conductor pipes, metallic cornices, -and sheet metal work generally, can seldom be made available a second -time though all is worth caring for, as some parties may use it for -repairs. - -Sinks, wash-basins, bath-tubs, traps, heating appliances, grates, mantels -and hearth-stones should be moved with care. They are always worth money -and may be used in many places as substitutes for more inferior fixings. - -Marble mantels require the most careful handling. - -Perhaps the most difficult fixings about a house to adapt a second time -are the stairs. Yet I have known where a man has so managed to put up new -buildings that the old stairs taken from another building just suited. -This may have been a “favorable accident,” but the initiated reader will -understand him. Seldom such accidents can occur. - -Rails, balusters and newels may be utilized much readier than stairs, as -the rail may be lengthened or shortened to suit variable conditions. - -Gas fixtures should be cared for and stowed away in some dry place. They -can often be made available, and are not easily renovated if soiled or -tarnished. - -It is not wise to employ men who have nothing but their strength to -recommend them. As a rule they are like bears—have more strength than -knowledge, and lack of the latter is often an expensive desideratum. -Employ for taking down the work good careful mechanics, and do not have -the work “rushed through.” Rushers of this sort are expensive. - -Never send old material to a mill to be sawed or planed, no matter how -carefully nails, pebbles and sand have been hunted for, the saw or planer -knives will most assuredly find some you have overlooked, then there will -be trouble at the mill. - -Have some mercy for the workman’s tools. If it can be avoided do not work -up old stuff into fine work. If not avoidable pay the workman something -extra because of injury to tools. - -Don’t grumble if you do not get as good results from the use of old -material as from new. The workman has much to contend with while working -up old nail-speckled, sand-covered material. - - _Builder and Woodworker._ - - - - -HEATING. - - -[Illustration: STEAM AND WARM AIR COMBINED.] - -I once knew a church building committee who planned and built quite -a large church, and when I was called in to arrange for heating the -building with a large furnace, the furnace committee were astonished when -told that the building committee had forgotten the fact that the hot-air -furnace required a chimney. - -The construction of many houses suggests that houses built in the hot -months of summer needed no special provision for heating. This is an -important subject, and should be carefully considered in the construction -of the plainest house. Always take climate, location and fuel into -consideration. The open fire place, with fire on the hearth, is without -doubt the most cheerful and healthful. This is the favorite and best mode -for plain country homes. But in all instances, for churches and public -halls, the open fire-place is not to be depended upon. There is a variety -of good steam-heaters and hot-air furnaces to choose from. Consult -the parties from whom you buy as to the size of heater required; its -location, size of cold-air duct, register, pipe, etc. - -For small rural churches that have no basement, construct a small room -under the front entrance or vestibule; eight feet square, inside measure, -is sufficient. Near its floor have a cold-air entrance leading to the -furnace. Cover the opening with wire netting to prevent the entrance of -mice. Use brick for the room, building the walls eight inches thick; -leave openings 2½ × 4 inches, about one foot apart all around the bottom -next to the floor. Carry the wall close to the ceiling, and make it tight -by plastering carefully inside and out where it joins the ceiling. -Cover the ceiling, by nailing to joists, with bright sheets of tin, and -white-wash the brick-work inside. For entrance make a door 6 × 3 feet. -A plain wooden one will answer. In the aisle of the church, immediately -over this room, put a large grating, such as your furnace-men will -suggest. In this room place your furnace, and have it _large enough_ -to heat the room above during the coldest weather _without excessive -firing_. With a larger capacity than necessary, the furnace will last -longer, burn less coal, and give better results in every respect. As the -furnace will radiate considerable heat, this can be utilized by running -a pipe of proper size from the room to the vestibule or some other room. -The objection to using this heat in the church is the noise of firing -up, which would be annoying during church service. However, a furnace -properly attended will not need firing during church service. Remember, a -large volume of _warm_ air is what you want, and _not_ a small volume of -_hot_ air. Never cover the grating or close the cold-air duct to cool off -while there is fire in the furnace, but open the doors or windows of the -church and check the fire. The closing of the grating or cold-air duct -will injure the castings of the furnace by overheating them. - - - - -CLOSE SHEATHING THE BEST. - - -While a rain-proof roof can be made with our shingles, our system, as -well as all metal or slate roofing should not be put upon open sheathing. -If walked upon the metal will not support the weight, and bends out of -shape, and the roof is blamed. In high latitudes where we have driving -storms of fine snow or “blizzards,” _we specify close sheathing covered -by paper_ (_using same rules as for laying slate_). We will then -guarantee a perfect roof. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. - - - - -THE CISTERN. - - -Three things are all that are necessary to supply any family with the -purest and best water in the world for drinking, cooking and washing -purposes: a well-constructed cistern, a clean roof and a rain-fall. - -[Illustration: CUT-OFF ATTACHMENT. - - _A._ To connect with down pipe. - _B._ Outlet for waste water. - _C._ Leads to filter or cistern. - _D._ Is adjustable to fit box _C_. - _E._ Fastenings to wall of house. - _F._ Side view of _D_. - _G._ Handle to adjust _D_. - -(Not patented; can be made by any tinsmith.)] - -These are within the reach of every one able to own a home. By a cistern -we mean an excavation in the earth from twelve to twenty-five feet deep. -Dig deep if you want cold water all the year round. From eighteen to -twenty-five feet will produce it. If your cistern is dug in a clayey -soil, there is no use of brick lining; but if in gravel, sandy or rocky -soil, line the inside with hard, well burnt brick, and do the work well; -using for mortar equal parts of hydraulic lime and clean, sharp sand. -When completed, plaster the inside carefully with the same mortar. If -the walls are clay plaster immediately on the sides and bottom, without -lining with brick. - -No roofing material is better for collecting chemically pure water than -tin, and none so bad as wood shingles. They hold dirt which no ordinary -shower will wash off, and furnish organic matter which is disagreeable -to the taste and smell; the porous nature of wood makes it the home of -myriads of insects, the remains of which are eventually deposited in the -cistern and poison its waters. - -No such objections can be urged against tin roofing. A short shower -cleanses it thoroughly. Water-pipes leading into the cistern in every -case should have a cut-off attachment within easy reach. - -There are several on the market, but those having no inside arrangement -to get out of order, or obstruct the direct passage of water into -either the cistern or waste-pipe, are the best. The water should be -strained before entering the cistern. This can be built of brick and be -underground, or a cask can be used above ground. A strong, iron-bound -linseed oil barrel answers the purpose. Its construction is very simple. -Take out one end of the cask and perforate it with a sufficient number -of one-inch auger holes; lay four brick on edge in the bottom of the -cask, and let the perforated cask head rest upon them. Then fill the cask -three-quarters full of charcoal, pounding it down on top pretty hard. Put -on top of the charcoal clean, coarse gravel to within three inches of the -top of cask; make a covering with an opening to receive the water which -flows from the roof, and convey the water from the bottom of cask to the -cistern. At least once a year this filter should be emptied and cleansed, -putting in new charcoal and washing the gravel carefully. Let no summer -months’ water run into the cistern. See that the first rain of a shower -is used to wash the dust and soot from your roof before it is turned into -the cistern, and you will have an abundance of water not equaled by any -well or spring. - - - - -BUILDING PAPERS. - - -[Illustration] - -NEPONSET PAPER is absolutely water-proof and air-tight, is clean to -handle, not tarred felt, but far more durable. Its resistance to air and -dampness renders it unsurpassed under clapboards, iron roofing and wood -or tin shingles. - -CLIMAX is a light, clean, pink, colored paper; useful for any purpose -where building paper is required; is much cheaper than Neponset, but not -water-proof. The use of building paper under roofing or clapboards adds -greatly to the ease of warming a building. By its use you save fuel and -your house is more comfortable. Its cost is nominal compared with its -advantages. We keep a large stock and fill orders promptly. - - - - -COLORS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. - - - Blue and yellow makes green. - White and yellow makes buff. - White, yellow and black makes drab. - White and black makes lead. - White and black makes gray. - White, black and blue makes pearl. - White and lake makes pink. - White, blue and black makes slate. - Red, black and blue makes brown. - Red, black and yellow makes maroon. - Red and yellow makes orange. - Blue and lake makes purple. - - * * * * * - - U. S. MARINE BARRACKS, NAVY YARD, PENSACOLA, FLA., - October 22d, 1887. - - SIRS:—In compliance with your request, I have to say that about - a year ago I was called upon to decide which of several kinds - of roofing material to select for two barrack buildings, which - I was constructing for the Government at this place. Owing to - the heat and moisture of the climate, very destructive to wood, - and the proximity of the Gulf of Mexico, which makes what is - known as a salt atmosphere, very injurious to iron roofing, I - was induced to try your system, and ordered the 14 × 20 size, - I. C. Standard, some painted and some galvanized. As it was - previously almost unknown to me, I had to assume the risk of - its success, and have since watched it very closely; the more - so, as it was laid by soldiers entirely unfamiliar with it. - - After the first rain a close inspection failed to reveal a - single leak. I have had it inspected after every heavy rain - since then with the same result. On the 20th inst. we had the - severest gale for many years, and the roofs not only resisted - it in every way, but there was no rattle, which could not be - said of our other tin roofs (old system). - - You can refer any one to me for commendation of these points - which are established; also of its architectural beauty, and - I have little doubt as to the rest, for we painted it very - carefully on both sides. - - I am, Sirs, very respectfully yours, - - HENRY CLAY COCHRANE, - Captain U. S. Marine Corps, Commanding Post. - - * * * * * - -The combination of cherry and light oak proves an excellent one for -over-mantels, for, in addition to contrast of grain, and figure, and -hue, is that of the high polish of which cherry is susceptible with the -somewhat ridgy surface of the oak. - - * * * * * - -One coat of paint takes 20 lbs. of lead and 4 gals. of oil per 100 square -yards. The second coat, 40 lbs. lead, 4 gals. oil; the third, the same -as the second—say 100 lbs. lead, 12 gals. oil per 100 square yards, for -three coats. - - * * * * * - - One gallon priming colors covers 50 square yards. - “ white zinc “ 50 “ - “ white lead “ 44 “ - “ lead color “ 50 “ - “ black paint “ 50 “ - “ stone color “ 44 “ - “ yellow paint “ 44 “ - “ blue color “ 45 “ - “ green paint “ 45 “ - “ bright emerald “ 25 “ - “ bronze green “ 75 “ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: COMPARATIVE PITCH OF ROOFS.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ J.—_Front Elevation._ - -EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.] - - * * * * * - -OUR GUARANTEE. - -We guarantee our shingles as follows: If you will use them, and _they are -properly put on in accordance with our instructions_, and if they do not -then give satisfaction, we agree to replace your roof, free of expense to -you, with equally expensive material, any time within two years from the -time you put them on. In addition to this, we may be able to give you a -local reference, as our goods are in use in every State and Territory. We -call your attention to the price list, and we will be pleased to make you -discounts on application. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th St., New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ J.—_Side Elevation._] - -Cover roof with No. 1 Standard 10 × 14 Tin Shingles; use attic vents (see -page 73) on main roof, and cover belt courses with 7 × 10 Tin Shingles, -same quality as those for main roof. - -The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each -been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and -the proportions and details can be relied upon. - -[Illustration: _Second Floor._ - -_First Floor._ - -_Design_ J.—(_Elevations, pages 51 and 52._)] - - - - -SHOWING APPLICATION OF OUR RIDGE OR HIP COPING. - - -[Illustration: Plain Ridge.] - -[Illustration: Manner of Fastening Climax Ridge to Roof Boards.] - -[Illustration: Showing Climax Ridge and Gable Finish.] - -These cuts are good illustrations of our Ridge Finish, which is also used -as Hip Coping. It is secured to the roof comb by nailing through the -flange, which rests on each side of the comb. It makes a durable and neat -finish; is of great assistance to workmen not skilled in metal roofing, -and its cost is no more than the labor and material necessary in making -the regular standing seam used by roofers in finishing the comb of sheet -metal roofs. - -FOR RE-COVERING.—Use our Roofing; no other has the conveniences for rapid -laying. - - - - -VENTILATION. - - -[Illustration: The “Attic” Sky-light and Ventilator. (See page 78.)] - -As you value health, study well this important subject, which is oftener -neglected in constructing dwellings than any other detail. An experienced -and observant man can pick from those whom he meets on the street men or -women who habitually sleep in badly ventilated rooms. The florist will -study and practice the best means to ventilate his propagating house, -and ignore the necessity of the same principle for himself and family. -Everything that breathes—and what living thing does not?—needs a change -of air to remain in a healthy condition. Leaves are the lungs of plants, -and, deprived of this change, soon assume a delicate, sickly hue. - -Why should the human family, in full possession of reasoning powers, -ignore the lesson that is every day before them? By ventilation we mean -a system that will constantly supply the dwelling with fresh air; at the -same time it draws the vitiated atmosphere from each hall and room in -the house. This can be done during the process of erection in a simple, -effectual and inexpensive manner. Even if it should cost more than you -feel inclined to pay, the result will justify the expense. - -There is no better way of creating upward draught than the open -fire-place, or a flue built with an opening near the floor. Such flues -should not be less than 8 × 8 inches for an ordinary size bedroom, and -should, if possible, be built alongside of the chimney flue, and extend -through the house-top without openings, except the one nearest the floor -in the room it starts from. - -As vitiated air is heavier than pure air, and is always nearest the -floor, the artificial draught caused by a long, upright flue is -constantly at work carrying the lower atmosphere from each room in which -these upward and outward draught flues are built. To supply the rooms -with fresh air, corresponding flues must be built similar in size and -construction to the above. Commence them with outside openings about -on a level with the first floor joists, extending upward, and end with -openings inward near the ceiling. Each of these openings outside and -inside the house should be covered with coarse wire cloth. That made -from tinned or galvanized No. 16 wire, with one-half in. meshes, is the -best. Care should be taken in building these flues to have them smoothly -plastered on the inside. An ornamental finish can be used at each end if -desired. By this arrangement a steady flow of fresh air, both night and -day, is secured without the ill effects of strong draughts. - -Do not try to economize by using one flue for two or more rooms. Good -results are only secured by using a set of flues for each room or hall. -I have seen ventilating flues built to open through the cornice. That -is a bad plan, for even a slight wind will check the draught while -blowing against that side. If the flues are properly finished after -passing through the roof the wind will increase the draught. The above -suggestions answer equally as well for frame houses. It is easy to -construct wood flues between the weatherboarding and lath. - - - - -COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE. - - -The object of this invention is to supply the builder with a -conductor-pipe that will not burst after freezing, which all pipes -without provision for expansion are liable when water is frozen solid -in them. The peculiarity of the joint lies in the wedge principle, -applied in a manner which forces the rim of the inside lap hard against -the overlapping end with strength sufficient to do without soldering -the joints. Besides this, each joint is provided with a fastening which -prevents the pipe from settling. This fastening may or may not be used, -but if used in connection with the ordinary pipe hook (which does not -prevent the pipe from settling) makes a very superior fastening. - -The V-shaped corrugation prevents bursting, as it allows the pipe to -expand when frozen, thus preventing its bursting. We make two sizes, -three and four inches in diameter, twenty-eight inches long, using tin -plate, which we galvanize with zinc after it is formed, making a pipe -superior to any galvanized iron pipe of equal weight. We make the same -not galvanized, but painted one coat inside and out with linseed oil and -oxide of iron paint. - -[Illustration: COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE. - -AMPLE PROVISION FOR EXPANSION.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ B.—_Front and Side Elevation._ - -SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, $1,200 to $1,500. - -Cover main roof with No. 2 14 × 20 Metal Shingles; gables with same, and -porches with 7 × 10, same quality. Attic ventilators will improve the -appearance and give additional light to the rooms under roof (see page -73).] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ B.—(_Elevations, page 58._)] - - - - -NAILS. - - -[Illustration] - -STEEL WIRE BARBED NAILS are superior to any cut nail made. Are lighter, -stronger and easier to drive. Holding firmer in the wood, and having a -larger flat head, they hold the tin to the roof boards much better, are -nearly double the quantity to the pound, and therefore fully as cheap. - - - - -DEADENING AND FIRE-PROOFING FLOORS. - - -[Illustration] - -This can be accomplished in a simple and inexpensive manner by nailing -strips 1 × 1½ inches along the side of each joist, the top edge of each -strip to be two inches below the top surface of the joist. On top of -these strips lay a floor of rough boards. Second-hand material answers -every purpose for the floor, as the boards need not be matched or of even -thickness. - -On the top of this rough floor spread a covering of coarse mortar gauged -level with the top edge of the joist. When the mortar is dry lay the -floor in the usual manner. It takes a long time for fire to burn through -a floor laid in this manner, and sound is deadened completely by the -mass of non-conducting mortar and the double floors. For fire-proofing -and deadening partitions in an effective way, build a four-inch brick -wall between the studding. A nail driven every ten or twelve inches in -the side of the studding, on the line of the mortar joint, will hold the -wall firmly between the studding. Where brick is scarce or expensive, -sun dried brick made from stiff clay is a good substitute. They can be -made 12 × 12 inches, and thick enough to come within ⅜ of an inch of the -lathing. The mortar keys impinging against the wall make the plastering -firmer and consequently stronger. - -The expense of fire-proofing and deadening in this manner is so small, -it is surprising it is not more generally adopted. If the flooring is -laid before the mortar used between the joists is dry, it will cause the -boards to swell and may bulge them; and when they finally become dry will -leave ugly looking cracks where they join. Remember, you cannot have a -well built house without giving Nature time to do her work. - - - - -DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES. - - -[Illustration: Cut I. - -Shows manner of finishing with Climax Ridge Stop Block and Gable End -Finish.] - -Commence at the lower left-hand corner. In starting be particular to see -that you start straight with the eaves of the building. To do this it -is best to draw a chalk line about twelve inches from the eaves; this -distance leaves two inches to project from the eaves, which in many cases -is more than sufficient. If you use our Gable End Finish (Cut I) it saves -the trouble of fitting the shingles to the verge board, and adds to the -appearance of the roof. After nailing the Gable End Finish to its place, -press the left-hand edge of the first shingle well under the fold of -the Gable End Finish, and before nailing it hook two or three shingles -with the top edge on a line with your chalk line; then remove the loose -shingles, and nail the first one which is held to its proper place by the -Gable End Finish. By doing this in starting each course you are sure of a -straight line if you follow correctly the gauge lines at the top of each -shingle. - -[Illustration: Cut A. - -Shows commencement of first two courses.] - -If your roof has a =pitch of six inches to the foot, or steeper, let the -bottom edge of the shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the -top of the underlying shingle, as shown in Cut A=. But if the pitch of -the roof is less than six inches to the foot, let the shingle entirely -cover the lower gauge line, as shown in Cut B. - -[Illustration: Cut B.] - -We advise against the use of our shingles on roofs of less pitch than -five inches to the foot, unless the lap is increased. As a rule, we think -any roof that can be walked over with safety is too flat for shingles of -either wood or metal. - -[Illustration: Cut F.] - -Should there be a gutter formed at the eave, let the shingle rest on it -as you would in using the ordinary wood shingle. (Remember every other -course =commences with a half shingle, as shown in Cuts A and B=.) The -same rules that govern the laying of slate or the common wood shingle -along valleys, or about chimneys and dormer windows, are applicable to -ours, except the tin shingles are bent up against the sides of chimneys, -which cannot be done with wood or slate. When our shingles turn up -against the sides of chimneys or brick walls, insert flashing by sawing -out the mortar joint above the line of tin work; where the upper edge of -our shingles butts against the brick wall, as they do on the lower side -of chimneys, cut them off on the line where the chimney comes to the -roof, and use a strip of tin bent in this manner. (See Cut F.) The upper -end at A is to fit in mortar joint. The lower edge, B, is nailed to the -sheathing before the shingles are put on. The upper ends of shingles are -then to be pressed up under the fold, C. Great care should be used in -finishing about chimneys and dormers, the details of which cannot well be -explained to suit each case; but a workman of ordinary skill can suggest -the proper manner in which the work should be done to secure thoroughly -tight work. - -It is much easier to secure this result with the use of our shingles than -it is with either wood or slate. - -Where the upper end of shingle butts against the side of a frame house, -use the same means as on the lower side of chimneys, only let there be -no bend at the point A, as shown in Cut F; but let it extend an inch or -so up under the weather boarding. Where the weather boarding is vertical -there is no way of making tight work but to put the tin work, as before -described, back of the vertical weather board. - -In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half inch -over the lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We furnish to each -customer a small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to turn this edge -over and pinch it together after the shingle is laid. - -[Illustration: Cut D.] - -The Cut D represents the shingles laid to and from the valley. In -starting from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, or -tack them at the top, then with a straight-edge mark and cut where they -overlap the valley; and with the hand-tongs edge and lock them to the -valley, as shown in cut D. - -Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and press the -shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut to suit the -angle of the hip. (See Cut E.) - -[Illustration: Cut E.] - -As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip Coping -through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, therefore, -particular to say wherever this Hip, or our Plain Ridge Coping (which is -the same thing) is used it should be nailed to the roof boards before the -shingles are put on. The fold is made expressly to receive the edge of -the shingles. Cut E shows this coping and the manner of applying it. - -We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the Northern States, -where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, the necessity of -using close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not close, =the use of -sheathing paper, to be laid underneath the shingles=; it adds greatly to -the warmth of the house in winter, and prevents small particles of snow -from entering, it costs but little, and should always be used under wood, -slate or tin shingles where the best protection is desired. - -DO NOT HAMMER DOWN THE JOINTS OR LOCK. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: PAINTING DEPARTMENT] - - - - -PAINTING. - - -After the mason, bricklayer, carpenter, tinsmith and plasterer comes the -painter. At this stage of progress in the work, the owner usually thinks -of moving in; in fact, he thinks he should have been living in his new -house several weeks ago. - -If weather conditions have been good, the representatives of other -branches of house building have got along smoothly excepting a little -shaking up now and then, caused mostly by the men occasionally yielding -to the seductive influences of Old John Barleycorn or his rival King -Growler. The owner, having previously engaged or contracted for inside -painting, now calls on the painter. The man of colors and brushes is -always ready to promise quick work (and we are free to say the mysteries -of his trade are equal to any reasonable emergency), and is apt to humor -his employer’s impatience, and meekly submits to his wishes knowing that -his employer’s hurry is his gain. House-builder, did it ever occur to you -that first-class inside painting is a slow process? Think of this; after -the first coat is laid, it should stand long enough to become thoroughly -dry, dry enough to be sand-papered. The second coat should be a little -heavier than the first or priming coat. It does not dry as fast as the -first. (We are speaking of good materials properly proportioned.) Each -coat must be thoroughly dry before it is sand-papered. Any kind of good -work requires three coats. Extra good work—four, besides varnishing. - -If you succeed in doing this work inside of four weeks you are fortunate. -Thus you see it requires time to do good work. Time for the men to do -theirs, and time for Nature to do hers. Sometimes Nature frowns and -lowers a curtain of humidity for days at a time, which prevents the -oils from drying. It is possible for your painter to finish all four -coats in as many days; but if he is honest and you have not hurried him -unreasonably, his conscience will suffer. Good painting, like other good -things, is durable, looks well, and is the cheapest in the end. - -Good painters pride themselves on doing good work. So if you desire -first-class work, you should give the painter a reasonable price, and -sufficient time in which to do the work properly. - -There is doubtless more adulteration in paint than in any materials -used in house-finishing. So general is this the case that it is often -difficult to get pure materials. This is caused by the low price of the -products of petroleum, the earth materials used to adulterate mineral -paints, and the demand for cheap work. - - * * * * * - -ATTENTION, ROOFERS! - -Our BROAD RIB ROOFING and STEEL PLATE SHINGLES are not protected with -a coat of richer metal like those made of tin or terne plate, and -consequently their _durability depends upon the paint_ with which they -should be covered. - -For this purpose nothing, so far as we know, is equal to a mixture of -_pure unboiled linseed oil_ and the _oxide of iron_. The Shingles should -have two coats, one before they are put on, on both sides (this we do), -the other immediately _after they are laid_. This last coat should be -repeated _every four or five years_. - -Remember, it is the _rust-preventing_ qualities of linseed oil, combined -with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the -corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. (See -page 101.) - - - - -A PERFECT ROOF. - - -The best can only be obtained by using good materials, worked into the -best form that theory and experience can suggest. - -WALTER’S PATENT “STANDARD” AND COOPER’S PATENT “QUEEN ANNE” METALLIC -SHINGLES AND SIDING, - -made from Tin Plate, Steel Plate, Galvanized Tin Plate, Bronze Metal, and -Copper, are unrivaled for roof covering. - -BECAUSE they have a perfect lock, using no cleats, springs or exposed -seams. - -BECAUSE they have no exposed fastenings; all nail heads are covered as -perfectly as those used for wood shingles. - -BECAUSE they can be applied without the necessity of soldering, and with -no other tools than a hammer, a small pair of hand-tongs and tin shears. - -BECAUSE they break joints by starting each alternate course with a half -shingle, thus bringing the centre of the bottom of each shingle astraddle -of the locked shingle below, securely binding the same and preventing -rattling. - -BECAUSE they are easily and rapidly put on, requiring no odd pieces at -the eaves, gables or comb. - -BECAUSE they lessen the expense of insurance, which extends not only to -the building but to furniture and goods contained therein. - -BECAUSE they do not crack, split, warp, fall off, rust or burn. - -BECAUSE there are no cross seams or joints where rain or moisture can -settle and cause decay. - -BECAUSE we furnish with our shingles, at moderate cost, Valleys, Gable -Strips, Ridge and Hip Coping, that not only improves the finish of -exterior, but assists the workman to an extent that lessens the cost of -applying. - - Manufactured by - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City, - -and for sale by Dealers in all the principal cities of the United States -and Canada. - - * * * * * - - From BARTLETT HARDWARE CO., - - Freeport, Ill., January 10th, 1888. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., New York City. - - Dear Sirs:—I send you photo. of my house that you may see how - handsome a Roof the 7 × 10 Shingles make. You thought the 10 × - 14 would have been better, but this is the finest roof in this - country, and we expect to sell some the present year. Everybody - admires it. Please quote for the coming season’s trade. - - Very respectfully, - - F. BARTLETT, President. - - - - -WHAT OUR GOODS ARE. - - -In offering our goods to the public, we desire to say, briefly, that -the _Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates_ have now been -before this country for nearly eight years, upwards of twelve thousand -buildings have been covered with them in the United States and Canada, -and we feel warranted in referring to the owners of every building so -covered. - -Our shingles have a concealed nailing flange the entire length of the -shingle on one side, and a perfect lock with a concealed gutter at the -side of the nailing flange that provides for _expansion and contraction_, -with sufficient ventilation to prevent sweating on the under-side, -(causing rust,) so common in the cross seams of flat lock and standing -seam, now in use. - -Our Galvanized (Re-dipped) Shingle is our Standard Tin Shingle -galvanized; and, as every square has twenty pounds of zinc coating, in -addition to the first coat of tin, it will be seen why it is superior to -any galvanized iron made. - -Our “Old Process” prices are designed to cover such grades of -double-coated plates as “Old Style,” “M.F.,” “Phelp’s Triple Plate,” -“Gilbertson’s Old Method,” and “Tregoning Old Process,” all superior to -the Standard Grades, and higher in price. We quote all but Galvanized, -painted both sides. If any size or kind is ordered unpainted, the price -will be 25 cents per square less. - -Our Steel Plate Shingles are made from sheets of Bessemer steel rolled as -smooth as tin plate, they are painted the same as the Standard Shingles, -and when laid on a roof cannot be distinguished from them. They should be -painted every five years with pure linseed oil and oxide of iron (brown -mineral). They will not bear neglect; in this respect they differ from -shingles made from tin plate. The price is somewhat less, but the greater -durability of the Tin Shingles is worth more than the difference in -price. - -We make our shingles in four sizes: The smallest, 7 × 10, (showing an -exposed surface, after laid, of 5½ × 9 inches,) is designed for Mansards, -Spires, Siding, and other upright work. The 10 × 14, (exposed surface, -8¼ × 11½ inches,) is the popular size; and while it works to the best -advantage on complicated roofs, it is equally good for plain ones. The 14 -× 20, (exposed surface, 12 × 17½ inches,) is used largely on the plainer -roofs, where a saving in price and labor of putting on is an item. The 20 -× 28, (exposed surface, 17½ × 25½ inches,) is made from heavier metal, -and is designed for warehouses, and other large surfaces; and any of the -larger shingles can be used for siding equally as well. - -We are prepared to make any of the above sizes from any special brand of -tin plate in the market, but for our Standard goods, which we carry in -stock, we use a first-class grade of roofing tin plate, warranted perfect. - - -SAMPLES. - -We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our WALTER’S PATENT -SHINGLES (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt -of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but -we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in -building. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, - New York City. - - - - -BROAD RIB ROOFING, - - -[Illustration] - -=Like Our Shingles=, has a nailing flange the entire length of each -sheet. =It forms a Continuous Rib= when applied from eaves to comb -with cross seams twenty-five inches apart, which gives it strength and -rigidity not found in roofing where longer sheets are used. =It has no -protruding= anchors, cleats or rivets; all nail heads are covered as -perfectly as those used for wood shingles. =There is no waste= in using, -either at comb or eaves. =The Side Nailing Flange= admits of the roof -being fastened to roof boards with any required degree of strength. =The -Cross Seams= are formed with a folded lock which allows for contraction -and expansion. =Material.=—Each sheet of this roofing is made from Best -Roofing Tin, or Imported Siemen’s Sheet Steel, which is hard rolled, -tough, durable and =thoroughly coated= on both sides with the best -Oxide of Iron and Linseed Oil Paint. The size of sheets are 20 × 28 -inches. =Tools.=—We send with each order one pair of _Metal Shears_, one -_Mallet_, and a _Draw Tool_, for which we make a charge of two dollars. -These tools can be returned to us by express at our expense, and the -purchaser credited, or the money paid for them returned. =Important -Improvements= in the manufacture of Steel Sheets enable us to put this -on the market at the same price as Sheet Iron Roofing, to which it is -greatly superior. =The Rib is formed= of the Walter’s Patent Lock, and is -the same we have used on our shingles for the last seven years. This Lock -has been thoroughly tested, and it is significant that over 25,000,000 -square feet of shingles constructed upon this plan are already in use -in the United States and Canada. The application of this Lock does away -with a very large proportion of the work necessary in laying standing -seam roofs as ordinarily applied, such as tonging up the seams, double -seaming, capping or riveting the ribs, and making and using cleats or -other fastenings. This roofing costs no more than wood shingles in -sections where good timber is scarce. Each sheet is made from plates 20 × -28 inches. =WRITE FOR PRICES.= - -[Illustration] - -The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., 510-520 E. 20th St., N. Y. City. - - - - -THE “ATTIC” SKY-LIGHT AND VENTILATOR. - - -[Illustration] - -This is a novelty in roof ventilation, and possesses the advantage of -admitting light as well as ventilating rooms in the garret or immediately -under the roof. - -It can be used on any kind of a slope roof having a pitch of three inches -or more to the foot. The front is of double strength glass which is held -to its place by a single catch. When used as a ventilator the glass is -drawn back to the slant of the roof, and sheds what water would enter the -opening during a rain storm. All the carpenter work necessary in setting -the “Attic” is to saw a square hole through the roof boards at the time -of putting on the roof-covering. We make them to form one plate of our -Broad Rib Roofing with which it interlocks. As shown on page 55, they -can be used equally as well on roofs to be covered with slate or wood -shingles as with our Tin Shingles. - - - - -HOW TO SET A FINIAL. - - -[Illustration] - -Bore a hole in the upper end of the centre-staff and insert in it the -lower end of finial rod; when the centre-staff is put to its place, plumb -the finial rod by moving the lower end of the centre-staff before it is -nailed to the floor or cross timbers. (See page 74.) - -[Illustration: No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. - -NET PRICES: 5 Foot $12.00. 6 Foot $14.40. 7 Foot $16.80. - -For either Round, Square or Octagon. No. 1 includes all above the -Shingles. (See page 73.)] - -=There is no shoddy work about these Finials. They are heavy, -substantially made and zinc coated.= - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: SHIPPING DEPARTMENT] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: COOPERS CROOKS.] - -(Patented August 20th, 1889.) - -Complete and in Sections. Fixed and Adjustable. - -_The most Perfect Machine-made Elbow ever manufactured._ - -=First-class Finish.=—Each piece is a perfect section of a curved tube. - -=A Convenience.=—The sections can be put together to form any angle. - -=Durable and Strong.=—The finished elbows are redipped after being locked -and riveted. - -=Quality.=—Both Retinned and Galvanized. - -Perfect in fitting, uniform in size and quality. Just what the practical -tinsmith should use for conductors and vent pipes. - - ADJUSTABLE. | FIXED. | IN SECTIONS. - Size. Tin. Galv’d.| Size. Tin. Galv’d. | Size. Tin. - 3 inch $1.55 $2.00 | 3 inch $2.00 $2.00 | 3 inch $1.45 - 4 inch 2.80 3.90 | 4 inch 3.90 3.90 | 4 inch 2.50 - - _Discount_.......................... - - MANUFACTURED ONLY BY - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York. - - - - -WEIGHTS. - - -Our goods weigh, when boxed ready for shipment, as follows: - - 14 × 20, No. 1, Standard 84 lbs. - 10 × 14, “ “ 92 “ - 7 × 10, “ “ 89 “ - 14 × 20, No. 2, Steel 83 “ - 10 × 14, “ “ 89 “ - 14 × 20, No. 3, M. F. 100 “ - 10 × 14, “ “ 108 “ - 7 × 10, “ “ 108 “ - 14 × 20, No. 4, Galvanized 104½ “ - 10 × 14, “ “ 109½ “ - 7 × 10, “ “ 109½ “ - Queen Anne, No. 6, Standard 121½ “ - “ “ “ Galvanized 144 “ - Broad Rib, No. 8, Standard 88 “ - “ “ “ Steel 87 “ - 50 ft. Climax Ridge Coping, Tin 56½ “ - 50 ft. “ “ “ Galvanized 71 “ - 50 ft. Hip, Tin 38 “ - 50 ft. “ Galvanized 43 “ - 50 ft. Valley, Tin 45½ “ - 50 ft. “ Galvanized 53 “ - 50 ft. Gable, Tin 12½ “ - 50 ft. “ Galvanized 15½ “ - - - - -HOW METAL SHINGLES ARE MADE. - - -Shingles made from wood have been common all over the world for ages. -Their particular form has remained unchanged because many years’ -experience has proven it to be the most durable and surest safe-guard -against storms. What is true of wood for roof covering is equally true of -metal for the same purpose. The first metal roofing made in America was -tin sheets, laid shingle fashion, the overlapped edges of which covered -the nail heads which were used to fasten them to the roof boards. Many -of these old-fashioned metal (tin plate) roofs are yet in existence that -were covered over one hundred years ago. The writer covered several -houses in 1849 in this manner, which are in good condition now. The -reason why this style of metal roofing was not common was its expense. On -page 16 we give reasons why it would be more durable than the ordinary -mode of laying tin roofing. - -The use of Walter’s and Cooper’s patent in constructing metal shingles -does away with the expense, which was a great drawback to their use, and -leaves no excuse for the use of cheap, combustible material. - -The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., of New York City, have for the past -eight years been manufacturing these shingles, and their use on a vast -number of public and private buildings in all parts of the United States -and Canada attest their superiority. Thinking that our readers would -be pleased to see the process of making these shingles, we illustrate -on pages 65 and 75 views taken from photographs of their paint and -store room. The process requires two press operations for each shingle, -and each press averages a turn out of 4,000 square feet (which is 40 -squares) per day. The dies which give shape and form the corrugations of -the shingles are faced with polished steel, which leaves no abrasions -where they come in contact with the metal. During the past year they -have added four new presses to this department to meet the requirements -of the increased demand for their goods. They spare no pains to make -their shingles as perfect as the best machinery can make them. All their -shingles are carefully inspected before they are boxed and sent to the -store room, from which they are shipped to all parts of the country. The -machinery room in which the presses are located is 37 feet wide by 80 -feet long, the painting department is 80 × 55 feet, and the store room -the same size. We give these figures that you may form an opinion of the -space required to manufacture and handle their goods. - -The process of painting is first dipping the shingles in a vat of pure -linseed oil and oxide of iron paint with just enough turpentine to assist -in drying. They are then set on edge and left to drain, after which -they are gone over with a brush and set in racks to dry, which requires -several days, according to the humidity of the atmosphere. They are all -air dried, no artificial heat being used. Their customers are cordially -invited to call at any time and see the process of manufacturing. - - * * * * * - - “Why don’t you mend your roof my man?” - He drew him closer to the wall, - And answered with a lazy drawl: - “When ’t rains so hard I never can.” - - “Why don’t you mend it when it’s fair?” - “Oh, then it doesn’t need repair!” - He blandly said - As he turned his head - And shook the raindrops from his hair. - - From _The Metal Worker_. - - - - -[Illustration: WALTER’S PATENT STANDARD SHINGLES.] - -[Illustration: COOPER’S PATENT QUEEN ANNE METALLIC SHINGLES.] - - - - -PUBLIC BUILDINGS ON WHICH THE ABOVE METAL SHINGLES ARE USED. - - -RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. - - Independent Pres. Church, Savannah, Ga. - South-West Pres. Church, Omaha, Neb. - Methodist Church, Stony Point, N. Y. - Methodist Church, Graniteville, Conn. - Methodist Church, Broad River, Conn. - Asbury Methodist Church, Providence, R. I. - Second Methodist Church, Kingston, N. Y. - Pisgah Methodist Church, Pisgah, Md. - Methodist Church, Thomasville, Ga. - Elm St. Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn. - East Nashville Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn. - Methodist Church, Manheim, Pa. - Roman Catholic Church, Trinidad, Col. - Roman Catholic Church, Albuquerque, New Mexico. - German Evangelical Church, New Harmony, Ind. - Holy Apostles’ P. E. Church, St. Clair, Pa. - R. C. Church of St. Cecelia, N. Y. City. - R. C. Apostolic Church, Toronto, Ont. - St. Patrick’s R. C. Cathedral, Ottawa, Canada. - Baptist Church, Tura, India. - Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass. - Second Baptist Church, Lawrence, Mass. - Berkeley Ave. Bap. Church, Berkeley, Va. - Baptist Church, Danbury, Conn. - Colored Baptist Church, Augusta, Ga. - Christ Episcopal Church, Richmond, Va. - St. John’s Epis. Church, Richmond, Va. - Christ Episcopal Church, Port Tobacco, Md. - St. Clement’s Episcopal Church, Chicago, Ill. - Mission Church, Aintab, Turkey. - Mission Church, Kiota, Japan. - Bethany Chapel, Troy, N. Y. - Colonial Beach Chapel, Va. - Plymouth Church, Charleston, S. C. - M. E. Church, McMinville, Tenn. - First M. E. Church, Jackson, Mich. - Christian Church, Little Rock, Ark. - Second Baptist Church, Little Rock, Ark. - First Pres. Church, Gainesville, Fla. - M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb. - Round Hill Church, Va. - St. Paul Lutheran Church, Lititz, Pa. - Salvation Army Barracks, South Norwalk, Conn. - Methodist Church, Salt Lake City. - Christian Church, Belton, Texas. - Salvation Army Barracks, Matteawan, N. Y. - First Cong. Church, Daytona, Fla. - Jewish Synagogue, Brunswick, Ga. - - -RAILROADS. - - Savannah, Florida and Western R. R. - North-Eastern R. R. of South Carolina. - Western and North Carolina R. R. - New York, Susquehanna and Western R. R. - Chesapeake and Ohio R. R. - Florida Railway & Navigation Company. - South Florida Railway. - Virginia Midland Railway. - Richmond and Danville R. R. - Newport News and Mississippi Valley R. R. - Chicago and Evanston R. R. - Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West R. R. - Interstate Rapid Transit Co., Kansas City, Mo. - Kansas City Cable Railway, Kansas City, Mo. - Union Passenger Railroad Co., Richmond, Va. - Franklin Avenue Line, St. Louis, Mo. - West Nashville Railroad Depot, West Nashville, Tenn. - St. Johns and Halifax R. R. - Maryland Central R. R. - Cornwall and Lebanon R. R. Co. - - -EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. - - DePaw College, Greencastle, Ind. - Mississippi Industrial Institute and College, Columbus, Miss. - St. John’s College, Tremont, N. Y. - Las Vegas College, Las Vegas, New Mexico. - Loyola College, Collington, Md. - Woodstock College, Woodstock, Md. - Medical College, Nashville, Tenn. - Dayel College, Sparta, Tenn. - Dakota University, Mitchell, Dakota. - Public School, Richfield Springs, N. Y. - Public School, Greenville, Ky. - Public School, McCook, Neb. - Public School, Dodge City, Kansas. - Public School, Marion, Ill. - Public School, Elizabeth, Pa. - Public School, Freeport, Ill. - Public School, Paw Paw, Ill. - Public School, Hutchinson, Minn. - Thirteenth District School, Nashville, Tenn. - Tenth District School, Nashville, Tenn. - Thirteenth Ward Grammar School, Nashville, Tenn. - Fogg High School, Nashville, Tenn. - Caldwell High School, Nashville, Tenn. - Tampa High School, Tampa, Fla. - Public School, Forward Township, Allegheny Co., Pa. - Tarbox School, Nashville, Tenn. - Searight School, Nashville, Tenn. - Niagara Falls Museum, Niag. Falls, N. Y. - - -Hotels and State and County Buildings. - - Florida State Capitol, Tallahassee, Fla. - Washtenaw County Jail, Ann Arbor, Mich. - Bristol County House of Correction, New Bedford, Mass. - Government Penitentiary, Kingston, Ont. - Main Street Central Police Station, Charleston, S. C. - United States Soldiers’ Home, Leavenworth, Kansas. - Wm. Houston Home, Charleston, S. C. - Deaf and Dumb Institute, Jacksonville, Ill. - Insane Asylum, Fort Steilacoom, Wash. Terr. - United States Marine Barracks, Pensacola, Fla. - Colorado State Insane Asylum, Pueblo, Col. - Asylum for Feeble Minded, Beatrice, Neb. - Tenn. Insane Asylum, Nashville, Tenn. - County Asylum, Sparta, Tenn. - City Hospital, Charleston, S. C. - Towers of Minneapolis Exhibition Building, Minneapolis, Minn. - Horticultural Hall, World’s Exposition, New Orleans, La. - Plymount County Agricultural Society Building, Brockton, Mass. - Public Library, Coldwater, Mich. - Fair Association Buildings, St. Louis, Mo. - Grand Army of the Republic Hall, Janesville, Iowa. - Caledonian Rink, Ottawa, Canada. - Park Building, West Nashville, Tenn. - Concordia Association Building, Little Rock, Ark. - U. S. Commissioners’ Building, Salt Lake City, Utah. - Board of Trade Bldg., Little Rock, Ark. - Exchange Building, West Nashville, Tenn. - Lyons Water Works Buildings, Lyons, N. Y. - Water Works Buildings, Battle Creek, Mich. - City Water Works Buildings, Ottawa, Canada. - Barclay St. Ferry House, New York City. - Oakland Mills, Taunton, Mass. - I. O. O. F. Building, Port Clinton, Ohio. - I. O. O. F. Building, Savannah, Ga. - Masonic Temple, Savannah, Ga. - Masonic Temple, Daytona, Fla. - Union County Court House, Union, S. C. - Ford County Court House, Dodge City, Kansas. - Ontonogan County Building, Houghton, Mich. - Court House, Jonesborough, Ark. - Hamilton County Court House, Texas. - Menard County Court House, Texas. - H. I. Kimball Hotel, Atlanta, Ga. - Burlington Hotel, Burlington, Vermont. - Fayetteville Hotel, Fayetteville, N. C. - Mitchell Hotel, Thomasville, Ga. - Arlington Hotel, Augusta, Ga. - Summerville Hotel, Augusta, Ga. - Cottage Hotel, Nunda, N. Y. - City Hotel, Beatrice, Neb. - Opera House, Junction City, Kansas. - Grand Opera House, St. Louis, Mo. - Overland Casino, Nashville, Tenn. - Opera House, Tavares, Fla. - North River Steamboat Co., Haverstraw, N. Y. - New Central Station, Charleston, S. C. - Lower Station House Stables, Charleston, S. C. - Mechanics’ Union Hall, No. 1, Charleston, S. C. - Oneida County Asylum, Rome, N. Y. - Wheeler Elevator, Buffalo, N. Y. - Ontario Elevator, Buffalo, N. Y. - A. W. Stevens & Son, Auburn, N. Y. - City Buildings, Taunton, Mass. - I. O. U. W. Hall, New Harmony, Ind. - Opera House, New Harmony, Ind. - - - - -INSIDE CONSTRUCTION. - - -By this we do not mean the arrangement or size of rooms, they may be -large or very small, and in either instance lack the conveniences which -may always be provided for by good construction. Even a small house -can have transoms over all the doors which open into a hall, proper -ventilating flues for all rooms, and a kitchen that will be comfortable -in all seasons, (see articles under the head of “Ventilation” and “The -Kitchen.”) These are essential; all dwellings, large or small, should -have them. The windows and doors should be arranged to suit the furniture -to be used. You have doubtless seen rooms with windows on two sides, a -door and fire-place on the other. This arrangement makes it impossible -for the room to contain an ordinary size bedstead, without placing it -before a window or some other opening. Study these things when getting up -plans for your house. - -The dining room should be light and roomy, fronting the East if -possible, as the morning sun is always desirable, and adds much to the -cheerfulness of the family. The kitchen should not connect directly with -the dining-room. Construct a passage-way, well ventilated, between the -two rooms; this will prevent unsavory odors entering the dining-room. The -space at each end of the passage can be utilized for the kitchen closets. -Arrange your rooms so that you will not be compelled to pass through one -room to get to another. Do not disfigure the walls by driving nails or -hooks into the plastering for the purpose of hanging pictures, but fasten -a neat gilt moulding to the side walls all around the room, about one -foot from the ceiling. The moulding should be about one and one-half or -two inches wide, with a groove on its upper side. Hooks shaped as an S -can be placed at any point on this moulding, and the pictures are to be -hung to these hooks. This arrangement is somewhat expensive, but it is -the only proper way in which pictures can be hung. - -Closets.—No house is complete without ample closets. Every lady knows -that clothing and wraps cannot be stored away in drawers, and look well -when wanted for use. As closets are expensive we suggest for small -houses, that a room be constructed from four to six feet wide, and from -ten to fifteen feet long, with a window at one end. Make shelves on one -side, and place suitable clothes hooks on the other. In such a room the -entire wardrobe and family linen can be properly stored. If you desire -a moth-proof room, the ceiling, walls and shelves should be made of -red cedar. We suggest this clothes room because of its cheapness. Each -bedroom of large houses should be provided with a clothes closet, which -should be lined with red cedar for the reasons above stated. - -Don’t forget to have windows and all outside doors fitted up with light -sash and frames covered with woven wire cloth. This material is very -cheap, and can be purchased at any house-furnishing goods store. Its -use prevents mosquitoes and flies from entering the house. Freedom from -these summer pests will amply repay you for the expense. During the late -fall, winter and spring months, the sash and frames can be removed; they -should be stored in some perfectly dry place, such as a garret, never -in a cellar. Speaking of pests reminds us of another kind that breed in -cracks and crevices found in most kitchens, which might lead a thoughtful -man to suppose that the builder, in his kindness of heart, provided these -little hiding places for just such creatures. If you don’t want them, see -that there are no cracks left between the wood-work and plastering, or in -any part of the floor or walls of the kitchen. Fill with cement (Plaster -of Paris is good) all cracks caused by shrinkage of wood-work after the -walls are completed and are thoroughly dry. - - - - -SHEET METAL WORK FOR PUBLIC AND PRIVATE BUILDINGS. - - -GUTTERS, VALLEYS AND DOWN PIPES. - -These things are very closely related to the roof, and like it should be -of the best material. - -A tin gutter hung at the eaves has the advantage of being cheap; if made -of good material and put up with good fastenings is durable, and suitable -for cheap houses and some portions of expensive ones. - -In all cases where the fastenings are to hang from the roof, the gutter -should be put up before the roof covering is put on, so the fastenings -can be secured to the roof boards instead of on top of the tin, slate or -wood shingles. If the fastenings are nailed on top of the roof covering, -the nails soon become loose, and the gutter sags. The tinsmith will -charge no more for doing his work before the roofers commence, but it -may delay you a day. Paint the gutter inside as well as out, and see -that it has sufficient fall to clear itself of water. If you prefer the -gutter on the roof near the eaves, let the sheets of which it is made -be of sufficient width to extend far enough up under the roof covering -to prevent water (when the gutter is full) from overflowing at the back -instead of over at the front; this is a common error. In every instance -let this top gutter be outside the wall line, so in case of leakage the -“drip” is outside the walls. Gutters of this kind, and all gutters that -are soldered and firmly fastened to roof boards (not hanging gutters), -are liable to crack by expansion and contraction of the metal; we -therefore say, never put a gutter inside the wall lines if they can be -put outside. Valleys formed by the joining of two roofs at an angle are -usually steep enough to allow the metal sheets to lap on each other and -shed water without soldering. Such sheets are usually made twenty-eight -inches long. Their shortness prevents cracking from expansion and -contraction even if nailed to roof boards. Remember that all trash or -dirt that settles on the roof eventually finds its way into the valleys, -gutters and down pipes, and in a manner scours their surface; for this -reason they receive several fold more wear than the same amount of -exposed surface of the roof, consequently, should be of better material. -Few people are aware of the amount of dirt and sand which is carried by -the wind and deposited on their house-tops; for this reason, if the water -is used for drinking or cooking purposes, the first water that flows -from the roof during a rain storm should not be allowed to flow into the -cistern. - -It is always best to have good sized down pipes. As a rule, for down -pipes from hanging gutters, let the circumference of the pipe equal the -girt of the gutter, and the gutter should be large enough to convey -the water which falls on the roof during the heaviest storms. Use only -curved elbows where a turn in the pipe is to be made, and at the foot -or discharge end. Curved elbows are now made by machinery; they are -stronger, more durable and cost no more than the common hand-made acute -kind. - -We have spoken of good material; but what is good material when Tin -Plate is spoken of? The quality of Tin Plate depends on its toughness, -and the weight of Tin or Terne coating on its surface. The first is -easily determined by bending back and forth with the hand, the latter is -not, unless handled by an expert. The following test will determine the -difference, provided you have different qualities. If the qualities are -the same, or nearly so, the difference will not be distinguishable. - -Take two pieces of different quality of Tin or Terne plates, say two -inches square, grease one side with any kind of animal fat; then with a -pair of plyers, hold them separately over a gas or candle jet with one -corner obliquely downward, and the amount of fusible metal which flows -from them will determine the difference between good and common. - - - - -TESTIMONIALS. - - - ST. LOUIS, MO., April 26th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have used your Walter’s Metal Shingles on the - most prominent buildings of our city, all of which have given - universal satisfaction both in appearance and durability. As - for us, we can say we give them the preference above all others - knowing that when once up there is none its equal. - - Yours truly, - - MESKER BROS. - - * * * * * - - AUGUSTA, GA., April 30th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I have in the past six years used and carefully - compared all the leading makes of Patent Metallic Shingles, - and I unhesitatingly pronounce your Walter’s Patent the best - shingle on the market. They are simple, and easy to put on, - and for a handsome, light and durable roof they are without a - parallel. I have used them on many public as well as private - buildings in this city, and they have in all instances given - the highest possible satisfaction, which _has won me the esteem - and confidence of the public_. - - Yours truly, - - DAVID SLUSKY. - - * * * * * - - LAS VEGAS COLLEGE, LAS VEGAS, N. M., April 29th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I am glad to inform you that we are very well - satisfied with the Walter’s Metal Shingles with which the new - stone addition of our college is covered. It is about three - years since the roof was laid, and your shingles are keeping - yet a very neat and nice appearance, defying bravely the eating - and inclemency of the weather. - - Yours truly, - - C. M. CAPILUPI, _S. J._ - - * * * * * - - OFFICE OF SUPERINTENDENT, DEPAW UNIVERSITY, - GREEN CASTLE, IND., April 30th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We beg to say that your Walter’s Shingles with which - our college buildings are covered are very satisfactory. - - E. T. CHAFFEE, Sup’t. - - * * * * * - - COLORADO STATE INSANE ASYLUM, PUEBLO, COL., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I wish to say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic - Shingles, with which our buildings are covered, we believe to - be superior to anything heretofore introduced in the West in - that line. - - Yours truly, - - P. R. THOMBS, Sup’t. - - * * * * * - - DAYTONA, FLA., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the First - Congregational Church at this place. As to durability, the roof - has been on now about three years, and seems as good as the - day it was put on. Its appearance is beautiful, and its rain - shedding qualities are perfect. We like the roof first rate, - and can conscientiously recommend them to others. - - Yours very truly, - - CHAS. M. BINGHAM, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - ITHACA, N. Y., April 28th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have put the Walter’s Metallic Shingles upon many - buildings in Ithaca, and in each instance our customers have - been perfectly satisfied. In our opinion they are the most - durable roof we have handled. The writer has his house covered - with the Galvanized Tin Shingles, and believes he has the most - durable roof in Ithaca, because they need no painting, or care - of any kind whatever. While costing more at the start, in the - end the matter of economy is with the Walter’s Shingles. - - Yours truly, - - C. J. RUMSEY & CO. - - * * * * * - - TAUNTON, MASS., April 25th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have used in less than two years about 800 - squares of your Metallic Shingles, and they have given the best - of satisfaction in every case, and in our opinion are far ahead - in durability and appearance of either slate or wooden shingles. - - Yours truly, - - N. CRAPO & BRO. - - * * * * * - - WINTHROP ST. BAPTIST CHURCH, TAUNTON, MASS., May 5th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We are in every way fully satisfied with the - Walter’s Metal Shingles which you put on the roof of our church - two years ago. It would be difficult to desire a superior - roofing. - - Yours very truly, - - J. K. WILSON, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - CENTENARIAN M. E. CHURCH, BEATRICE, NEB., May 2d, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I consider the Walter’s Metal Shingle an improvement - over anything of the past; superior to slate in appearance; of - less weight and cost, and just as durable. When properly put in - place it can but give the best of satisfaction. Can heartily - recommend it. - - Respectfully, - - A. C. CALKINS, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - MATTEAWAN, N. Y., April 25th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I take great pleasure in giving my unprejudiced - opinion of Walter’s Metallic Shingles. I have been using them - for the last three years, and have never had any fault found - with them of all the roofs that I have put on, and I have had - good practical tinners proclaim to me that they consider it - the best tin roofing they have ever seen. It is _the_ roof for - me when I am building myself. Any person adopting this roof, - by giving it a coat of metallic paint every five years, I will - warrant them to have a tight roof for two generations. - - Yours truly, - - SAM’L McKEE. - - * * * * * - - MINNEAPOLIS, MINN., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I have put on in the Northwest large amounts of your - Metallic Shingles for others, and also covered my own residence - some five years ago, and can heartily recommend your goods to - any one desiring a substantial and absolutely tight roof of - fine appearance, which gives a roof much better than slate and - a lower price. - - Most respectfully yours, - - M. H. CRITTENDEN. - - * * * * * - - ANN ARBOR, MICH., May 4th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—My roof was the first one in this city on which - your tin shingles were used, and they have given entire - satisfaction. I would not exchange it for any other roof that I - know of. - - Yours truly, - - GEO. W. MOORE. - - * * * * * - - MILFORD, DELAWARE, May 10th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Would say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic - Shingles, put on the Electric Light Station in this town, by W. - P. Cullen, are giving entire satisfaction, making a handsome - and durable roof, much preferable in our judgment to the - regular tin roofs usually put on such buildings. - - Very truly yours, - - W. T. JOHNSON. - - * * * * * - - NEW MILFORD, DEL., May 15th, 1888. - - Perhaps it may be of interest to you to know my views of the - Tin Shingle Roofing purchased of W. P. Cullen, of Milford, - Del. I can recommend in the highest degree their use, as - they possess many advantages over any other material used - for that purpose. They require no skilled labor, and are as - durable as any tin roof can possibly be. I have watched it - during every rainstorm since it was laid, and not one drop - has passed through it to my gratification, and to the credit - of the inventor. I invite the inspection of any one who may - contemplate putting on a roof upon any building. - - Respectfully, - - P. H. STORM. - - * * * * * - - BROCKTON, MASS., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Two years ago the Brockton Agricultural Society - covered the roof of their main building with your tin shingles, - and I am pleased to inform you that they have given perfect - satisfaction. - - Yours truly, - - H. W. ROBINSON, President. - - * * * * * - - CHURCH OF THE HOLY APOSTLES, ST. CLAIR, PA., - April 25th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles have been - the covering to the Rectory of this church since September, - 1885. They were put on by novices under disadvantageous - circumstances, and have withstood every test that a - Pennsylvania mountainous district changeable weather could - give. I talk tin shingles to all my friends. - - Yours truly, - - CHAS. A. MARKS, Rector. - - * * * * * - - NATCHEZ, MISS., February 16th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I have been in the tin roofing business for the past - 20 years, and I believe that the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles - make the best tin roofing of any of the other patents that - are now on the market. I have put on hundreds of squares of - them, and they have given me and the property owners entire - satisfaction. I will further say that each box of shingles - I have bought from them has covered one hundred square feet - of roof, which will be understood by tinners to be a great - satisfaction in ordering roofing, as the rule is that patent - roofing falls short after being laid. I have often been asked - by different manufacturing companies for my opinion of the - roofing that they manufacture, but this is the first time that - I have ever given my opinion, and I would not give my opinion - now if the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles did not deserve it. - - I am, yours truly, - - P. W. MULVIHILL. - - * * * * * - - BATON ROUGE, LA., February 24th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I beg to say that I have used the Walter’s Patent - Tin Shingles for some time, and they have given satisfaction. - I think they make the best roofing that can be put on for the - money. - - Yours truly, - - M. J. WILLIAMS. - - * * * * * - - MILFORD, DEL., May 4th, 1888. - - Dear Sirs:—This is to say that I have used several thousand - shingles of Walter’s Patent on our roof at the Phosphate - Factory, put on by W. P. Cullen, and up to this time not a - single drop of water or a weight of snow has drifted through - it, and if kept properly painted, I believe the roof will last - as long as any person could wish it to. - - W. I. SIMPSON. - - * * * * * - - CANAJOHARIE, N. Y., May 10th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Having Walter’s Metal Shingles on two of my - buildings, put on by F. H. Hodge, the new _Courier_ building - being sided with them, I feel that I am competent to speak of - the merits of the shingles. My experience has been entirely - satisfactory, and I regard the Metallic Shingles as the best - roofing and siding extant. If I were to build a hundred houses, - and it were possible to use these shingles, I would not - hesitate one moment, as I regard them as cheaper and better - than any other covering in the market. - - Yours, &c., - - WILLET F. COOK. - - * * * * * - - HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY, - FORT STEILACOOM, W. T., May 2d, 1888. - - Dear Sirs:—This institution has passed two winters under cover - of Walter’s Metal Shingles. Our Winters are very wet, rain - falling most of the time, but there has been no leak. The - shingles are, therefore, entirely satisfactory. - - Yours very truly, - - JOHN W. WAUGHOP, M. D. - Sup’t Hospital Insane, W. T. - - * * * * * - - WOODSTOCK COLLEGE, HOWARD CO., MD., December 8th, 1886. - - Gentlemen:—It affords me much pleasure to indorse favorably - the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles. I have used them on our - church buildings in Trinidad, Colo., Albuquerque, N. M., and - Woodstock, Md. In the first named place they have been in use - over two years, and have withstood, without detriment, the very - high winds and occasional driving storms of rain and snow for - which that State is so remarkable. In the other places they are - also giving satisfaction in every respect. - - I consider a roof of this material far superior to the - ordinary tin or iron, both in beauty of design and solidity of - construction, and see no reason why it should not supersede - slate, as it is far less costly, requires a lighter frame, is - just as much fire or storm-proof, and equally durable if kept - painted. - - Hoping your goods may elicit the patronage they justly deserve, - I beg to remain, gentlemen, - - Yours very truly, - - EDWARD BARRY, _S. J._ - - * * * * * - - AUBURN, N. Y., November 26th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—Your esteemed favor of the 16th duly to hand; by - reason of Mr. Stevens’ absence from town, has not had earlier - reply. We take great pleasure in speaking a good word for the - new roofing we purchased of your house; we find it all it - was recommended to be. The condition in which it came to us - rendered it very easy to place upon the roof. It makes a tight - and substantial roof, one which we believe will be as durable - as anything we have ever seen. We remain, with respect, - - Yours very truly, - - A. W. STEVENS & SON. - - * * * * * - - PENFIELD CENTER, N. Y., October 17th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—I have used about sixty squares of your metal - shingles this year, and can say they excel any roof I - have used. They are light, tight and cannot help being a - life-lasting roof, if they are taken care of. - - Yours truly, - - G. H. BACON. - - * * * * * - - SHERMAN, TEXAS, October 28th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—I have been contracting and building fifty years, - 34 years in North Texas. I recommend your metal roofing as the - best I have ever used, and that it gives perfect satisfaction, - and if painted every five years it will last a century. - - Yours truly, - - GEO. MELTON, - Architect and Builder. - - * * * * * - - COLLEGE OF THE HOLY CROSS, WORCESTER, MASS. - - Mr. W. F. WALLACE, Sec’y and Treas’r, Nat. Sheet Metal Roofing - Co. - - Dear Sir:—Having used your Galvanized Tin Shingles largely in - Maryland, Connecticut and here, and recommended their use in - other sections, I have no hesitation in stating that everywhere - the results have been completely satisfactory. I shall continue - to use the roofing in preference to any that I know. - - Yours respectfully, - - T. W. HAYES, _S. J._ - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., November 4th, 1889. - - Dear Sirs:—Nearly two years ago I had the steeples of my - church covered with your Galvanized Metal Shingles. I have now - no hesitation in stating that in my judgment it is the best - roofing material in the market. It is very ornamental, and time - seems to have no effect on it, as it still retains the same - color. So pleased were the citizens of this place with the work - done on my church, that many of them are now using the same - material in roofing their houses. - - A. MURPHY, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - WEBSTER, N. Y., October 17th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—I have used your patent shingles on my grist mill - and think there is nothing better for fire, wind or weather. - They are all right. - - Yours truly, - - B. SPERRY. - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., December 2d, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Metallic Shingles put on the roof of - our new church in this city, about four months ago, by Mr. - James Conley, are in every way satisfactory to our people, and - the roof is admired by all who see it. I take great pleasure in - recommending your shingles to the public as the best material - for roofing that I have seen. - - E. W. BRUCE, - Pastor and Chairman of Building Com. - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., November 5th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the steeples - of the Welsh Congregational Church, at this place, last summer, - and it seems as good as the day it was put on. Its appearance - is beautiful and its rain-shedding qualities are perfect. We - like the steeple first rate and can conscientiously recommend - them to others. They need no painting or care of any kind - whatever. These were put on by Mr. James Conley, of Rome, N. Y. - - Yours truly, - - D. E. PRICHARD, Pastor. - - JAMES THOMAS, Sec’y. - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., December 6th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Metallic Shingles were first brought - to my notice by Mr. James Conley, of this city, some two years - ago, and I made a personal examination and test of same, and - have since specified and had them used in preference on several - buildings. They make a light, handsome and durable roof, and I - have yet to hear the first complaint. - - Respectfully, - - WM. H. DAVIES, Architect. - - * * * * * - - COUNCIL GROVE, KANSAS, November 5th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gents:—Yours of the 25th at hand regarding the Walter’s - Shingles. I purchased in the spring the Walter’s Shingles and - used them on my dwelling house. I must say they make the best - looking roof and the tightest roof I ever saw, and they are - easily laid. I am much pleased with them and can recommend them - very highly. - - Yours truly, - - THOS. J. HIGGINS, - Breeder of Hereford Cattle. - - * * * * * - - JUNCTION CITY, KANSAS, October 29th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gentlemen:—Replying to yours, 25th inst., we have used the - Walter’s Metallic Shingles on the large three-story building - we occupy. This roof was put on nearly two years ago: the roof - has not shown any defects up to this time, and if kept properly - painted will last many years. - - Very respectfully yours, - - ZIEGLER HARDWARE CO. - - * * * * * - - KANSAS CITY, October 26th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Dear Sirs:—In reply to yours I have no hesitation in - pronouncing the Walter’s Metallic Shingles a good roof. It has - been on my two-story frame house two years, and I have found it - to be perfectly tight, keeps clean (an advantage where cistern - water is used) and adds greatly to the appearance of the house. - - Yours truly, - - M. J. REILLY, - 1308 Park Avenue. - - * * * * * - - WESTON, MO., October 31st, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gentlemen:—Walter’s Metallic Shingles bought of you last May - were put on our school-house, and I am glad to state that they - make a tight, handsome and substantial roof. Everybody is - pleased with it. I can recommend them to all who want a tight - and substantial roof. - - Yours truly, - - REV. CHAS. SCHAAF, - Pastor of Catholic Church. - - * * * * * - - HUTCHINSON, KANSAS, October 26th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gents:—We have used almost all kinds of Metallic Shingles - manufactured, but find the Walter’s Shingle makes the best roof - of any we have found. They make a tight, ornamental and durable - roof, and have never given us a particle of trouble, and we - are glad to recommend them to any one wanting a first-class - metallic roof. - - Respectfully, - - SWIFT, MANKOFF & CONGDON. - - * * * * * - - TRINIDAD, COLO., November 16th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Dear Sirs:—We have used the Walter’s Patent Shingles to the - satisfaction of all concerned on the following buildings: - Southern Hotel, South Side Public School, Jewish Synagogue and - several minor buildings. They undoubtedly make a good roof. - - Yours truly, - - SCHMIDT BROS. - - * * * * * - - Mr. JAMES CONLEY, _Agent_, Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles, Rome, - N. Y. - - Dear Sir:—I take pleasure in commending the Walter’s Tin - Shingles, as applied to my house by you. As you will remember, - the roof was not completed in all its details when the winter - set in last year, and, at my request, the scaffolding was left - on the different roofs, more for a test from banking of snow - and back-water, feeling assured that if the shingles survived - the test, I would never experience any trouble from that - source, in the future, when the scaffolding was removed. I was - more than satisfied with the test, as we experienced no trouble - from leakage or from any other source. Therefore, I take great - pleasure in recommending the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles - to whoever contemplates using a metallic shingle for their - buildings. - - I remain, yours truly, - - CHAS. WIGHAM, - House, 418 Floyd Ave., Rome, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -OUR SPECIALTIES. - -THE BEST OF THEIR KIND. - -=METAL SHINGLES=, under the Walter’s and Cooper’s Patents, made from Tin -Plates, Tin Plate Galvanized, Steel Plates and Copper, have no equal in -the world for roof covering. - -=CURVED ELBOWS.=—Fixed, adjustable and in sections. The most perfect -machine-made Elbow ever invented. Made from Tin Plate, Tin Plate -Re-tinned, and Tin Plate Galvanized. Perfect in form and fitting. The -best in the world. - -=CONDUCTOR PIPE.=—Crimp expanding. Will not burst by freezing. In -sections twenty-eight inches long, which interlock with each other. Two -sizes, three and four inches diameter. - -=WIRE NAILS.=—Made from Steel Wire. All sizes, both barbed and plain, in -kegs, at manufacturers’ prices. - -=DRY PAINT.= (=Devils’ Red.=)—The very best Oxide of Iron. This is NOT a -Ready-Mixed Paint. It is Iron Ore, burnt until all deleterious substances -are destroyed, then pulverized and bolted. In a word it is IRON RUST, it - - MIXES readily with Linseed Oil, - FLOWS freely under the brush, - ADHERES tenaciously wherever applied. - -Samples Mailed Free. - - WRITE FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE AND PRICES. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING COMPANY, - 510 to 520 EAST TWENTIETH STREET, - NEW YORK CITY. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: WIRE NAILS] - -STEEL WIRE NAILS - -AT MANUFACTURERS’ PRICES. - -All Kinds of Wire Nails, Plain or Barbed, - -FOR - -Tin and Iron Roofing, Tin and Wooden Shingles, Slate and Composition -Roofing, Carpenters and Box Makers, Trunk and Casket Makers, Builders and -Contractors. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - 510 TO 520 EAST 20TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: FRANK L. SMITH, Architect,] - -_22 SCHOOL STREET, (Room 10,) BOSTON, MASS._ - -=Plans for Specifications Prepared for Buildings of every description. -Low Cost Suburban Dwellings a Specialty.= - -_Distance is no obstacle to my serving parties in all parts of the -country. Correspondence Solicited._ - -PUBLISHER OF - -A COSY HOME: How It was Built. - -A DISCUSSION OF THE VARIOUS METHODS AND MATERIALS EMPLOYED IN ITS -CONSTRUCTION. - -The book contains ninety-six pages, and is handsomely printed on heavy, -tinted paper. Is illustrated by designs of ten low-cost houses; first -and second floor plans and front and side elevations of each design are -presented. - -It contains many valuable and practical suggestions for those who would -build economically, and who desire to obtain the greatest value for their -money. Most of the houses represented have been recently built in the -vicinity of Boston, and the estimated cost of executing each design is -based upon actual figures. - -If you are interested in house planning and building, it will pay you to -send for this book. Sent post-paid, on receipt of price, =25c.= - -HOMES OF TO-DAY, OR, Modern Examples of Moderate Cost Houses. - -Published in four parts, quarterly. First and second parts now ready. -Volume will contain 240 pages, quarto size, showing designs of buildings -to cost from $250 upwards. Over 200 illustrations, full set of framing -plans, model specification, colored frontispiece, and valuable -information for those about to build. Four parts, post-paid, as issued, -=$1.00=. Address, - -F. L. SMITH, Architect, 22 School St., Boston, Mass. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: BRUCE & COOK - -Nos. 248 & 250 PEARL ST - -186. 188. & 190. WATER ST. N.Y. - -For Extra Roofing specify KILLEY EXTRA or LPL EXTRA. - -Each Sheet stamped with Brand. - -For Best Roofing specify TREGONING OLD PROCESS. - -Each Sheet stamped with Brand. - -CORRUGATED LEADERS. IXL VENTILATORS. - -Eight Foot Seamless Eave Troughs and Gutters.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: =NEPONSET WATERPROOF PAPER.= - -(Patented Dec. 28, 1885.)] - -=No. 1 Neponset Rope Roofing.= - -For a first-class covering use our No. 1 and No. 2 NEPONSET ROPE ROOFING. -This will make a permanent covering at a low cost. - -=Black Neponset Building.= - -This is without exception the best building paper in the market. Cheaper -and better than tarred paper. Will save fuel. - - For Sale by all Dealers. - - Manufactured solely by - F. W. BIRD & SON, East Walpole, Mass. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: STEAM AND WARM AIR COMBINED] - -THE ECONOMY COMBINATION - -Steam and Warm Air Heater. - -=A Low Pressure Apparatus.= Radiates Steam Heat with from ½ to 3 pounds -pressure. =One fire generates both Warm Air and Steam, Increasing its -capacity 25 per cent. over any All-Steam Heater made.= The drafts are -automatically regulated by the steam pressure. - -_Our Systems of Warming Buildings with Steam Radiation and Warm Air -insure_ - -Perfect Ventilation, - -_And guarantee a uniform and healthful temperature throughout the house_. - -THE “ECONOMY” - -[Illustration: The Double Radiator Economy Warm-Air Furnace.] - -Warm-Air Furnaces - -Have a reputation that is neither excelled nor equalled for =Durability, -Power and Economy=, and are guaranteed in every respect. - -SEND FOR CATALOGUE - -giving full particulars, descriptions and illustrations of 31 different -styles and sizes of Heaters. - -Manufactured solely by the - - J. F. PEASE FURNACE CO. - SYRACUSE, N. Y., TORONTO, ONT., - 75 UNION STREET, BOSTON, - 177 EAST RANDOLPH STREET, CHICAGO. - - EARL B. CHACE & CO. - GENERAL N. Y. MANAGERS, - _206 Water St., New York_. - -Estimates for Warming Buildings Promptly Furnished. - - * * * * * - -_PAINT! PAINT!! PAINT!!!_ - -[Illustration] - -YOUR HOUSE-TOPS, BARNS, and OUTHOUSES, - -Paint! Paint!! Paint!!! - -WITH - -=DEVILS’ RED= - -THE BEST OXIDE OF IRON, - - =GROUND= to an Impalpable Powder - =READY= to mix with Linseed Oil - =WITHOUT= any other ingredient. - -If you want the very best results from =OXIDE OF IRON, mix only with -Linseed Oil=. - -If you want a cheap, vile compound often sold for Paint, mix Oxide of -Iron, Benzine, and a “LEETLE” Oil. - -=DEVILS’ RED= IS NOT a Ready-Mixed Paint. It is Iron Ore burnt until all -deleterious substances are destroyed, then pulverized and bolted. - - In a word it is =Iron Rust=, it =MIXES= readily with Linseed Oil, - =FLOWS= freely under the brush, - =ADHERES= tenaciously wherever applied. - - =DEVILS’ RED= is For Sale to the Trade, - ONLY BY - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City, - - In Packages of 25 lbs., 60c.; 50 lbs., $1.00; 100 lbs., $1.75. - - Special Prices by the Barrel. Samples Mailed Free. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS AND -THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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