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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5cbddce --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #68285 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68285) diff --git a/old/68285-0.txt b/old/68285-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e5389be..0000000 --- a/old/68285-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3978 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Practical hints to builders and those -contemplating building, by National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Practical hints to builders and those contemplating building - Facts worth considering relating to foundation, cellar, kitchen, - chimney, cistern, brick-work, mortar, heating, ventilation, the - roof, and many items of interest to builders... - -Author: National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. - -Release Date: June 10, 2022 [eBook #68285] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS -AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING *** - - - - - - - PRACTICAL HINTS TO - BUILDERS - AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING. - - =Fourth Edition.= (145,000) - - Facts Worth Considering - RELATING TO - _Foundation, Cellar, Kitchen, Chimney, Cistern, Brick-work, Mortar, - Heating, Ventilation, The Roof, and many items - of interest to Builders._ - - _Copyrighted 1890, by_ THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - - The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. - SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF - =Walter’s Patent Standard, and Cooper’s Patent Queen Anne - Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates,= - 510 TO 520 EAST TWENTIETH STREET, NEW YORK CITY. - - Press of W. J. Pell, 92 John Street, New York. - 1890. - - - - -INDEX. - - - PAGE - - Architect, The, 4 - - Architects and Builders, 16 - - Brick-work, 34 - - Building.—Selecting a Site, 5 - - Buildings covered with Metal Shingles, 80 - - Buildings.—Old Materials, 42 - - Building.—Our Specialties, 95 - - Buildings, Sheet Metal Work for, 85 - - Building Paper, 47 - - Colors, 10, 48, 66 - - Chimneys, 17 - - Cellar, The, 22 - - Cistern, The, 46 - - Conductor or Leader Pipe, Cooper’s, 56 - - Construction, Inside, 83 - - Design for Cottages, 8, 12, 18, 24, 31, 38, 51, 58 - - Deadening and Fire-Proofing Floors, 60 - - Elbows, Cooper’s Curved, 76 - - Floors, Fire-Proofing, 60 - - Finials and How to Set Them, 73, 74 - - Foundation, The, 6 - - Guarantee, Our, 51 - - Gold Medal Award, 7 - - Heating, 44 - - Kitchen, The, 29 - - Metal Shingles, compared with Wood, 26 - - “ “ “ “ Slate, 36 - - “ “ “ “ Ordinary Tin Roofing, 37 - - “ “ Samples of, 30, 71 - - “ “ Queen Anne, 40 - - “ “ Directions for Laying, 61 - - “ “ How Made, 78 - - Measure, Surface, 41 - - Mortar? What is Good, 14 - - Roof Paint, 21, 39 - - “ Valleys or Gutters, 13, 23, 85 - - Roof, The, 28 - - “ Comparative Pitch of, 50 - - Roofing, Broad-Rib, 72 - - Ridge Coping, 54 - - Sheathing, The Best, 45 - - Testimonials, 87 - - Ventilation, 55, 73 - - What Our Goods Are, 20, 35, 68, 70, 77 - - Walter’s Patent and What It Is, 20 - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -Preface. - - -The object of this little book is to give to builders a few practical -hints that can be used in their endeavors to erect a home that is -proposed to be durable, comfortable and healthy. They are susceptible -of being improved to an extent that will meet the wishes of the most -extravagant builder, or simplified to suit purse and requirements of a -builder with moderate means. - -We have left out generalities, and offer the reader solid facts that are -valuable to every one engaged in the ever pleasant task of constructing a -home. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 TO 520 EAST TWENTIETH ST., - New York City. - - - - -Practical Hints to Builders. - - - - -THE ARCHITECT. - - -Shall we employ one? Yes, if the work is sufficiently important to -justify it, and it is a very modest house indeed that is not. - -As the professional architect is generally a graduate of one of the -building trades, and has gravitated to that position because of his -peculiar fitness for it, it stands to reason, some will think, that from -among the many builders one can be selected who is capable of taking the -contract and presiding as architect. To such persons we would say: You -are not familiar with the functions of an architect, when considered -separate from the builder. The architect can save you money. He discovers -your wants, your likes, and your dislikes; he reduces them to a tangible -form; he draws up the specifications so minutely that every variety of -material and labor is distinctly set forth as to its quality and kind. - -When completed, plans and specifications are presented to a builder for -an estimate; he knows exactly what is expected of him. There is no chance -for controversy or quibble; all has been settled by the owner through -his architect. In consequence, if several contractors estimate upon the -building, it is known that their figures are all upon the same basis. - -We will say in general he can save you from five to twenty per cent. in -cost; will give you better construction and proportions, and add a value -to your house, apart from its first cost, that if it does not sell for -more, it will sell more readily than if built without his service. - - - - -SELECTING A BUILDING SITE. - - -There are but few persons who are in a position to locate their proposed -home just where they would most desire it. But, fortunately, most any -building site is capable of being made to look well, it the style of -architecture selected harmonizes with the surroundings. - -It is of the first importance that the location be a healthy one. Better -rent all your life than ignore that. Avoid the neighborhood of swamps and -stagnant water, or where the cellar, (if you have one) to your house, -from the nature of the location, will be damp. Large bodies of water, -or running water is never unhealthy; but on the contrary, it is in many -ways conducive to health. Some very uninviting, rugged and neglected -spots, can, with but little expense and an appropriate building, be made -exceedingly beautiful. - -One of the prettiest school-houses I ever saw was built on a lot given -by a farmer for a district school. It did look as if the piece of ground -was worthless for any purpose; it was rocky, overgrown with briers and -bushes, and a tiny stream ran across the lot, jumping from rock to -rock, alongside of which, on a level spot but little larger than room -for a building, a house with steep roof and turret was built, and the -adjacent hillside made a splendid study and playground for the scholars. -When completed the building and grounds was a model of what a country -school-house should be. - -While an elevation is at all times desirable, a hill is not. The exposure -to the storms in winter, and the tiresome walk in summer, is to be -avoided. A few native trees, if on the ground to furnish shade, are -desirable. The water supply, too, is to be considered. Most architects -say a Southern exposure is the best, but this depends on your location. -For Southern homes the East is preferable. - - - - -FOUNDATION. - - -[Illustration] - -Just how deep to excavate to start the foundation of a house depends on -the climate and soil. Always dig trenches below the frost line in any -soil. This is sufficient if the subsoil is solid; if the subsoil is not -solid, go deep enough to reach solid earth. - -In saying this, we are supposing you are not building in a swamp, -where it is often necessary to drive piles upon which to start a solid -foundation. Stone is generally used for foundation walls where it is -convenient, and it makes the best. Hard pressed brick, laid with mortar -composed of one part of hydraulic lime and two parts sharp sand, makes -a foundation not inferior to stone for all practical purposes. By using -the above mortar, dampness will not ascend from the ground to injure the -floor joists. - -Mortar made from common lime or sand, though commonly used, is -objectionable for foundations, because dampness will ascend even above -the floor joists, if the floor is not several feet above the ground. It -is often the case that hydraulic lime cannot be conveniently had. In that -case a layer of slate or coarse paper, well saturated with pitch, laid -between the brick seams below the line of joists, will answer the same -purpose, and is less expensive. - -See that the space between the joists is filled with brick, flush with -the under-side of floor boards. This prevents Mr. Rat, or other members -of his interesting family, from sitting in these little corners and -gnawing into the room above, or climbing between the siding to the -upper floors. If this little matter is attended to right, neither rats -or mice can enter the house, except through the doors. To keep them from -burrowing underneath the foundation walls, let the thickness of one brick -project outward at the bottom of the foundation. On burrowing downward, -a rat soon reaches this shelf, and following it around till he arrives -at the place he started from, becomes disgusted, or is supposed to, as -he is not seen about the house again. It is always better to have the -foundation broader at the bottom than the thickness of wall intended to -be used. This is necessary in all brick houses, unless on a rock bottom. - -See that the space under the ground floor is left clear of rubbish -before the floor is laid, and grating built in the wall for ventilation. -This opening can be closed in winter to secure additional warmth. The -cellar is closely related to the foundation; we give some hints on its -construction on page 22. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: Fac-simile of Gold Medal awarded to WALTER’S PATENT -METALLIC SHINGLES. These shingles have received twenty-eight other awards -for merit in the United States.] - - * * * * * - -The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each -been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and -the proportions and details can be relied upon. - -[Illustration: _Design_ I.—_Front Elevation_. - -TEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $5,000 to $6,000. - -Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 Galvanized Tin Shingles; porches with -same; tower with 7 × 10, same quality; use attic vents on main roof, and -No. 1 Six-foot Finial on apex of tower.] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ - -_Second Floor._ - -_Design_ I.—(_Elevation, page 8._)] - - - - -COLORS.—For Exterior and Interior. - - -As your house nears completion, it is well to decide upon colors. That -is a distinctive feature which is to give tone and beauty, and make -your house in some respects different from all others. The question of -painting is often a mere matter of preserving the structure, and not a -question of beauty or harmony of colors, or what would be best suited -to the surroundings; it is too often the case that but little regard is -paid to those nice perceptions that make one man’s work many times more -valuable than another. Strong contrasts of color should be avoided. Light -tints are preferable to strong colors. Think of a house painted black, -red, yellow, or green. - -Let the surroundings suggest what the exterior colors should be. A house -surrounded by trees and shrubbery will admit of white, with white tinted -trimmings, such as cornices, corner-boards, window and door frames; but -for half the year the green foliage of the trees is turned to brown, -which but partially relieves the glaring white. This is why that color -is not a favorite for exteriors. As a rule, select a light color for the -body of the house, and darken that for the trimmings. - -For interior wood-work select light wood colors; let none be darker -than walnut. Oak, chestnut, ash, white walnut, maple and cherry make -a beautiful finish by simply oiling, and varnishing if a gloss is -preferred. Very light shades of ochre make beautiful ceilings which -can be ornamented with suitable designs, using darker but delicate -shades of other light colors. Here is where the taste and skill of the -painter comes in, and unless you are an adept, don’t fail to consult an -experienced decorator for your inside walls. - -For houses of moderate cost we think nothing is equal to solid colors -for inside walls. Let the colors be light and cheerful, and the rooms of -different shades. (See page 48). - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -If you are interested in _Roofing_, send for our Price List and Discount -Sheet, which is special to the trade. We are pioneers in the introduction -of practical metal shingles, and no imitator has yet produced their -equal. Our goods are largely used throughout the United States and -Canadas; are used by the Government and Railroads; approved by the Fire -Insurance Companies, and many leading Architects and Builders. They are -lighter than slate, and will last longer without repairs; and the low -rate of insurance on our roofing will, in a short time, more than balance -the difference in price where wood shingles are cheaper. - -As seen by the cut, our shingles are the same to-day as when first -introduced. Remember, no cleats or springs are necessary in using our -shingles. The lock is simple and perfect, with corrugations across the -top, and bracing corrugations across the exposed end of the shingles, -which stiffen and hold the shingles firmly to the underlying courses. -They are easily applied, and any one who can lay a wood shingle can lay -these. We furnish them in four sizes, made from charcoal roofing tin, -painted both sides and unpainted, galvanized tin plate, which is superior -to galvanized iron, cold rolled copper, and steel plates. We keep on hand -a full line of roofing sundries. - -[Illustration: Fac-simile of beginning of first two courses.] - -Our Shingles received the highest and only award for metal shingles at -the American Institute, held in this city, October, 1886, and New Orleans -Exposition, 1885. - -WHOLESALE AGENTS. - -_RICHARD KNISELY & SON, 184 South Jefferson St., Chicago, Ills._ - -_W. W. MONTAGUE & CO., San Francisco, Cal., Pacific Coast._ - -_J. J. WALTERS, Denver, Col._ - -_PHILLIPS & BUTTORFF MFG. Co., Nashville, Tenn._ - -_CANADA GALVANIZING AND STEEL ROOFING CO., Montreal, Canada._ - -_MACHWIRTH BROS., Buffalo, N.Y._ - -_JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo._ - -_F. H. LAWSON & CO., Cincinnati, Ohio._ - -The National Sheet Metal Roofing Company, 510, 512, 514, 516, 518, 520 -EAST 20TH ST., NEW YORK, U. S. A. - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ C.—_Front and Side Elevation._ - -SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $1,800 to $2,000.] - - - - -ROOF VALLEYS OR GUTTERS. - - -It is generally known to builders and roofers that the greatest amount -of wear upon all kinds of roofs is in the valleys or gutters. Therefore, -that part of the roof, whether covered with slate, tin or wood shingles, -should be of the best material, and free from the annoying possibility of -cracking. - -This trouble is always caused by expansion and contraction of the metal. -The usual method is to make the valley of the desired length, and, after -shaping to the roof-boards, to nail each side firmly. The result is, -with the summer heat, a buckle is often formed at some point between -the two ends. In cold weather the buckle draws out, and in course of -time, if the joints in the middle do not give way, a leak will appear, -caused by the metal cracking. This will not occur with our roof valleys, -because we amply provide for the expansion and contraction of the same. -We particularly call the attention of dealers in building material to -our Queen Anne Valley. It is salable, durable and cheap, always ready to -apply; can be used by any workman capable of laying slate, tin or wood -shingles. (See page 23). - -THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ - -_Second Floor._ - -_Design_ C.—(_Elevations, page 12._)] - -[Illustration] - - - - -WHAT IS GOOD MORTAR? - - -To a casual observer mortar is mud, but to a builder who understands the -chemistry of mortar it is a compound of water, lime and sand, and when -properly prepared forms an indestructible cement. Fresh slacked lime, -when brought in contact with clean, sharp sand, adheres strongly to the -surface of each grain, and forms the silicate of lime. - -At the same time the drying mortar absorbs carbonic acid from the -atmosphere, forming with it lime-stone, which in time becomes a rock in -solidity. Now, all mortar is good or bad in proportion to the purity of -the ingredients and their relative affinity for each other. The adhesive -properties of mortar are nullified by loam or clay in sand, or the stale -condition of lime used. - -Loam mortar adheres freely to the surface of walls or ceilings. So does -mud if thrown against an upright surface; but water dissolves it. It -dries quickly, but does not harden with age. The foundation of many -frame, and the entire walls of many brick houses are built with poor -mortar, when the materials for good could be had at the same price. - -Water, lime, sand and hair are the ingredients for plasterers’ mortar -in about the following proportions: One bushel unslacked lime and four -bushels sharp sand; (to this add twenty-four pounds of dry hair for every -one hundred yards, when used for “scratch” or first coat,) and water -sufficient to make it of proper consistency. After being properly mixed, -the mortar should stand from three to ten days before using. However, -the time it should stand depends upon the susceptibility of the lime to -slack. Some lime requires a month, while good lime slacks immediately. -Age improves mortar, provided it is kept wet, and makes it work easier -under the workman’s trowel. As it is the keys formed by pressing the -mortar against the lathing on the ceiling that holds it to its place, -there should be a relative width of lath and key space to insure strength -sufficient to prevent its falling. Ignorance of this, and poor mortar, -is the cause of falling ceilings. Lath one inch wide, 7/16 inches thick, -placed 7/16 inches apart will insure good strong work. - -The second coat needs but a very small quantity of hair. Fifty bushels -sand, and twelve and one-half bushels unslacked lime, will make mortar -enough to cover one hundred square yards. If mortar freezes before it is -dry it loses its cementing properties and becomes in common phase rotten, -but if the sand used is clean, and it remains frozen without thawing -until it is dry, it is not injured. The best way to treat a house in -which the plastering is not dry, and cannot be kept from freezing before -it dries, is to throw the house open, and let it freeze for eight or ten -days, or until the plastering freezes dry. - -Cisterns should be plastered inside with mortar made of equal parts of -hydraulic lime and clean sand. For brick work above foundations use one -part unslacked lime to four parts sand. - - * * * * * - - “THE INDEPENDENT,” 251 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, October 28th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—The shingles from your respected concern used on my - new house look splendidly, and give entire satisfaction. They - are far better than any metal shingles I have previously used - on other buildings, which I have had torn off and thrown away - as worthless. At times we were flooded by the water under their - (want of) protection, and we could not stop the leaks. Noah in - the ark I am sure was, fortunately, not troubled with leaks - such as we endured for years; if he had been all would have - been drowned. Now, under your protection, we are all right and - still alive. - - Faithfully, - - HENRY C. BOWEN, - CHANDLER. - - - - -TO ARCHITECTS AND BUILDERS. - - -There is no detail of house building more important than the roof. Upon -it depends to a great degree the durability and preservation of the -whole structure. The number of good houses with mottled ceilings and -cracked plastering, to be seen all over the country, are reminders of the -necessity of securing the best material and faultless construction for -this important part of your dwelling. - -The advantages we claim for our Tin Shingle, over the ordinary mode of -applying sheet metal for roofing purposes, consists in its =Superior -Strength, Freedom from Wrinkles and Cracking=, (which cannot at all -times be prevented where sheet metal is put on in continuous sheets); -and in being the =Most Ornamental and Durable= of all sheet metal roof -coverings. Now, in answer to this last assertion you may say, How can -this be? Is not the same quality of tin as durable when applied in one -form as another? We answer, By no means. The writer—and we presume the -reader—has seen tin roofs worked, and walked over in the necessary -finishing up, to such an extent as to seriously damage the roof. The Tin -Roofers’ mallets, seamers, tongs, and sliding over the roof, do more real -damage to the surface of tin plate than several years’ wear. We entirely -overcome this difficulty, as no part of the exposed surface of our Tin -Shingles are struck with a mallet or hammer in applying them. Again, -where metal plates are put together in continuous sheets, moisture, -which condenses underneath for want of ventilation, settles in the -cross-seams and causes decay, and the ordinary metal roof when removed -invariably shows this to be the case, while the other part of the plate -shows no perceptible wear. Our form of metal roofing has no cross-seams, -and has sufficient ventilation to prevent the condensation of moisture -underneath, making it by many years the most durable form of metal -roofing ever offered to the American people. - -Our object is to furnish the building public with a better form of -roofing material, attractive in appearance, without the objections of the -heavy slate, the clumsy shingle, or the plain ribbed metal roof; and at a -price that claims the attention of Architects and Builders of the whole -country. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 TO 520 EAST TWENTIETH ST., - New York City. - - - - -CHIMNEYS. - - -[Illustration] - -We will not moralize on the evils of smoky chimneys, but just tell you -in plain language how to construct them so they will not smoke. Make -the throat of the fire-place not more than half the size of the flue; -carefully smooth the inside of the flue, and have it of the same area -all the way to near the top of the chimney, when it should be gradually -tapered inward to about half the area of the flue. At the extreme top, -the cap stone should slant from the opening in all directions downward -at an angle of about twenty degrees. This will insure a good draught and -prevent the smoke blowing downward. No two fire-places should enter the -same flue; neither should a stove-pipe enter a flue unless the fire-place -is closed. Each stove and fire-place should have its own flue. The size -necessary for a flue depends on the fuel to be used. - -Soft or Bituminous coal requires a flue nearly double the size of one -where Anthracite is to be used; an open fire-place for wood, larger flues -than either. For instance, an 8 × 8 inch flue answers for Anthracite, -because it makes but little soot, while if Bituminous coal is used, 8 × -12 is none too large. - -You will find in houses all over the country flues smaller than the -above, and a corresponding number of smoky chimneys, which it is -impossible to remedy without re-building from the bottom up. - -The carelessness displayed in chimney construction is astonishing. As -the work is hid from view on completion, be watchful during the process -of construction from the ground up. All chimneys should, if possible, -extend above the apex or comb of roof, and should be built of good hard -burnt brick, and no woodwork should be allowed to enter within five -inches of inside of flue, and not within twelve inches anywhere near the -fire-place. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ H.—_Front Elevation._ - -EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,500 to $4,000. - -Roof covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with Queen -Anne; second story, sides, with 7 × 10 Standard Tin Shingles; and porches -with Broad Rib Tin Roofing; use No. 2 Five-foot Finial on tower.] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ H.—(_Elevation, page 18._)] - - * * * * * - -A retired plumber thus gives a point for the gratuitous relief of -householders: “Just before retiring at night pour into the clogged pipe -enough liquid soda lye to fill the ‘trap’ or bent part of the pipe. Be -sure that no water runs in it until the next morning. During the night -the lye will convert all the offal into soft soap, and the first current -of water in the morning will wash it away and clear the pipe clean as -new.” - - - - -THE WALTER’S PATENT, AND WHAT IT IS. - - -Previous to the granting of a patent to John Walter, in 1882, there were -no tin shingles manufactured for the trade in the United States, with the -exception of those which covered more than two-thirds of their surface -to get one-third exposed to the weather; the same is commonly done with -wood shingles. This made them too expensive for general use. The Walter’s -patent made it practical to expose five-sixths of the surface and only -conceal one-sixth of the shingle. This great saving at once reduced the -cost of metal shingles over one-half, and enabled the National Sheet -Metal Roofing Co., which controls this patent, to put on the market the -best metal roofing in the world, at prices that compete with ordinary -wood shingles. (See “Comparative Cost,” pages 26 and 27.) - -How this was done is best expressed in the claim granted the patentee, -copied from the United States Official Gazette: - - “A metal roofing plate having a gutter formed by corrugations - at one side, and a perforated flange at the side of the gutter, - whereby it shall be nailed to the roof of a house; a broad - corrugation at the other side adapted to form a seam with the - adjoining edge of a corresponding plate, substantially as shown - and described.” - -[Illustration] - -The advantage of this lock is that it makes a water-tight seam without -soldering or hammering down. The plates are joined as easy as crossing -two sticks, with ample provision for expansion and contraction. This lock -is the perfection of simplicity; there is no exposed seam where water is -liable to lodge and cause rust; no cleats are used, and no tin springs -are necessary to hold the side edges of connecting plates to prevent -water seeping through. - - - - -PAINTING SHEET-METAL ROOFS. - - -The subject of painting sheet-metal roofs is one of great importance, -says the _Builder, Decorator and Wood-Worker_, not only on account of the -protection afforded, but because the material, when properly colored, can -be made pleasant to the eye when placed in exposed positions. While many -kinds of paint have been discovered and patented, composed of a great -variety of materials, it is a question if there is a substance used that -is an effective substitute for linseed oil, regarding the effectiveness -of which an authority on the subject says: “By consulting experienced -and unbiased painters you will learn the fact that there is no vehicle -pigments at all approaching linseed oil in effectiveness and durability, -especially for exposure to the weather. A good paint must be both hard -and elastic. It requires hardness to prevent abrasion and wear, and -elasticity to prevent cracking from expansion and contraction. Nothing -but linseed oil will give these qualities, for, strange as it may seem to -many in these days of novelties, the pigments really add but very little -to the effectiveness of paints. Mark, we say the best of pigments, for -many pigments are the reverse of protective, and are really destructive -to both the vehicles and the material which they are supposed to protect. -For example, coal tar and all its products, whether called dead oil, -asphalt, rubber, etc., are of the class just described, and their use at -any price, especially for covering sheet-metals, is a wanton waste of -money. Extended experiments have demonstrated that there is no better -pigment for metal than a good iron ore ground to an impalpable powder. To -be most thoroughly effective the pigment must be intimately incorporated -with the vehicle, which can best be done only by grinding them together -in a stone mill by steam power.” It is of the greatest importance that -sheet-metal roofs, especially those made of iron, should be protected -from the action of the elements, as when so protected there is hardly -any limit to the time they will last. In order that the paint should be -effective, it should be applied before the iron has had an opportunity -to rust, and the first coat should be of the best quality and applied -in the best manner; or if it is defective it is plain that it will not -only require repainting far sooner than it should, but no matter how -good the subsequent coatings of paint are, they cannot be effective if -founded on an original coating which has commenced to crack or peel, as -it certainly will if not prepared with the best methods and materials. -Another important point to be observed in the painting of sheet-metal is -that the paint should not be too thick, as it is the linseed oil that is -to be depended on to furnish protection, and as the action of the air on -the surface of the exposed oil gives it a particularly hard surface, two -thin coats of paint are much more durable than one thick one. - -Remember, it is the =rust-preventing= qualities of linseed oil, combined -with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the -corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. (See -page 101.) - - - - -THE CELLAR. - - -The cellar under a dwelling house has many advocates. It is a convenient, -cool place, and nineteen times out of twenty is a damp, dark, musty, -foul-smelling place. It cannot well be otherwise and be a cellar. It is a -store-room for all sorts of vegetables; odds and ends of most everything -are laid away in that dark retreat. It is the favorite resort of spiders, -toads and other creeping things; it is the unrelenting enemy (?) of the -family physician, the breeding-place of malaria, which unceasingly sends -its poisonous vapors into every part of the dwelling above it. It would -be suicide for one to make it their sleeping room. - -But if you insist upon having a cellar under your house, and will not -put it under the corn-crib or carriage-house, see that it is properly -constructed. This is more important than most of the other parts of the -house, for upon it in a great measure depends the health of your entire -family. - -The floor of the cellar should be hard and dry, with no woodwork in -its construction. To obtain this result, cover the floor about three -inches deep with coarse gravel, or broken stone, well pounded to a level -surface. Fill this with a thin mortar, composed of one part hydraulic -cement and two parts sharp sand, smoothing it off with a trowel or -plasterer’s level. When we mention sharp sand, we mean coarse, clean sand. - -Build a flue, say 8 × 12 inches (with an opening next to the floor of the -cellar fully that size), from the bottom of cellar foundation alongside -of and extending to top of kitchen chimney, the heat of which will create -a constant, upward current of air from the cellar. On the opposite side -of cellar from this ventilating flue make an air inlet near the ceiling -for the purpose of supplying fresh air to the cellar. This will keep -the cellar dry and the atmosphere healthy. Put a wire netting over the -opening to prevent the entrance of rats and mice. If from the nature of -the location, or other causes, a cellar is damp, dig a trench all around -a little below and outside of the foundation wall; this trench should be -covered with flat stones and earth filled in a little above the surface -line, so that surface water will flow from, and not settle next to, the -foundation walls. When the cellar is completed whitewash the walls and -ceiling. - - - - -OUR “QUEEN ANNE” VALLEY, FOR SLATE, TIN OR WOOD SHINGLES. - - -[Illustration] - -Patented October 30th, 1883. - -This cut fairly illustrates our improvement. The corrugations at the -side keep the edges rigid, and prevent the edges from _dipping_ into any -space that may be between the roof boards where they are not laid close. -Besides this, they dispense with the necessity of chalk lines, and hold -the shingle or slate from lying close upon the metal, preventing decay -both of wood and metal. A convenience and benefit to every builder. - -_To be used where the pitch of the roof is equal to that necessary in -using the ordinary shingle._ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ G.—_Front Elevation._ - -EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,000 to $3,500. - -Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with -7 × 10, same quality; and porches with Broad-Rib Tin Plate Roofing.] - - * * * * * - - SMITHTOWN BRANCH, L. I., November 27th, 1886. - - Dear Sirs:—During the recent very heavy storms—wind and - rain—the roof on my house, put on with Walter’s Patent Tin - Shingles, _stood the test_; not a single leak has ever been - discovered, not even around the chimneys, valleys, nor where - the roof of the wing butts up against the main building. The - work was done in April last, and never leaked, and I think - _never will_, as long as the material lasts. - - You will remember how reluctant I was to try the shingles, - but I am now glad that I did so, for I not only have a good - first-class roof—fire-proof—but I also have the _handsomest_ - roof in our town. I promised you I would come in and see you, - and tell you how I liked the shingles, but not having done so, - I write you this. - - Yours very truly, - - COE D. SMITH. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ G.—(_Elevation, page 24._)] - - * * * * * - - NEW BEDFORD, MASS., June 24th, 1887. - - Gentlemen:—The Metallic Shingles, which were put on by you on - the roof of the New Bristol County Jail and House of Correction - at this place, are entirely satisfactory in every respect, the - manner in which the plates are rolled overcoming all objections - to the expansion and contraction of the metal. Those that were - put on here were of hard rolled copper, and have now turned a - beautiful bronze color, and is very much admired by all who - have seen it. The roof cannot but be an extremely desirable - roof, and I do not see that it can need repairs of any kind for - years to come. - - Yours very truly, - - ROBERT H. SLACK, Architect. - - - - -WOOD AND METAL SHINGLES. - - -COMPARATIVE COST. - -[Illustration] - -We are often asked if our metal shingles are as cheap as wood shingles. -While we cannot consistently say they are not; still, if we say they are, -they refer to our price list, which necessitates an explanation something -like this: - -We will suppose a dwelling is to be built to cost, say $2,500. Such a -house will usually require about 20 squares of roof covering, which, -if done with wood shingles, fixes the cost of fire insurance about -one-quarter of one per cent. higher than a metal roof during its -existence. This extends not only to the house, but all contained in such -roofed houses. And this is the case, no matter how good the wood shingles -are. - -In making this comparison, we will consider such shingles as are -generally used in the older settled portions of the country. We are aware -that shingles made from well-matured timber, straight-grained, free from -sap and wind-shakes, full length, hand drawn to five-eighths of an inch -at the butt, four inches wide, and carefully put on make a good, durable -roof. But shingles of that kind are only to be had in the thinly settled -portions of the country. - -It is the broad, thin, split or sawed shingles, found in all markets, -which we contend are more expensive than our metal shingles. These do -not last, on an average, more than fifteen years, and after ten years -the repairs are a continual expense until removed and replaced with new -material, which is not often done until some of the woodwork is badly -damaged, and ceiling cracked and stained from frequent leakages. On the -other hand, _tin shingles will last for any length of time, if painted -once in every five or six years, and show no perceptible wear_. - -Cost of a TIN SHINGLE Roof for a period of Fifteen Years. - - Twenty squares of Tin Shingles, at $6.75 per square $135 00 - Labor of putting on same 10 00 - One coat of paint after roof is laid 8 00 - -------- - Total cost of same $153 00 - - One coat of paint at expiration of five years 10 00 - One coat of paint at expiration of ten years 10 00 - One coat of paint at expiration of fifteen years 10 00 - Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at one-half of - one per cent. per annum 187 50 - ------- - Total cost at expiration of fifteen years $370 50 - -Cost of a WOOD SHINGLE Roof for a Period of Fifteen Years. - - Twenty squares of Wood Shingles, at $3.75 per square $65 00 - Putting on same 20 00 - Expense of five years’ repairs, after expiration of - ten years; damage to roof and ceiling caused by - leakage not counted 15 00 - Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at three-quarters - of one percent. per annum 281 25 - Expense of covering at expiration of fifteen years 85 00 - ------- - Total $466 25 - - =Making a difference in favor of Tin Shingles in a - period of fifteen years of= =$95.75= - - - - -THE ROOF. - - -[Illustration: (For Finials, see page 74.)] - -A roof for your house is indispensable, and because it is so, let it -be a good one. No part of your house is subject to the same amount of -exposure, and there is no part independent of its protection. If you have -built for the personal comfort of yourself and family, do not slight -the roof because cheap, plain material is the most convenient. There is -really no economy in doing so. It is outside, to be sure, but, like the -chimney, it is a necessity. As we cannot ignore it, we must try to make -it, as a part of the house, attractive. No money spent on the house will -add more to its selling value than that expended in taste and material -for the roof. - -[Illustration] - -The difference expended in favor of good material adds to every part -of the structure. The roof is about the first thing the prospective -purchaser sees. He cannot help it; it is right before his eyes. His first -impressions are the hardest to overcome. - -A good roof must be, first, rain-proof; second, fire-proof; third, light -in weight; fourth, durable; fifth, ornamental; sixth, not liable to get -out of order. You can have your house covered with such a roof, and not -pass the limited boundaries of economy. - -Read carefully the pages of this little book devoted to roofing materials -and sundries. - - - - -THE KITCHEN. - - -Somehow, our architects and builders habitually neglect to study the -requirements of the kitchen, but persist in constructing for this use a -plainly constructed room, generally cramped in size, with no means of -escaping the great heat generated by the range or stove, which in the -hot months of summer is almost unbearable. If men were often obliged to -remain in such a place, a large part of the day during the hot season, -they would be quick to seize upon any plan which would mitigate the heat. -But as their wives, daughters or “help” preside in that department, they -offer no amendment to the long-established mode of kitchen construction. - -Now, a kitchen can be so constructed that even with the largest size -family-stove or range in use, it will be as comfortable as any other room -in the house, and at an expense not to exceed the cost of the stove or -range used. To do this, build of brick a large open fire-place, say from -three to twelve inches broader than the length of the stove or range -to be used, and from front to rear deep enough to receive the same. -It is best to set an ordinary cook-stove with the side to the front, -so that the oven door can be convenient. The oven door, of course, on -the opposite side is permanently closed. The range being differently -constructed can readily be set in the brick enclosure or open fire-place, -the walls of which should be built perpendicular to the floor, and about -five feet high. The back wall should be sufficiently thick to commence -at this point a smoke-flue 8 × 12 inches, with an opening to receive the -smoke-pipe from the range or stove, and continue it out through the roof -of house (see “Chimneys”); resting on the walls of this open fire-place -build, either with wood or brick, a tapering flue, so that after emerging -from the roof it will expose an opening of not less than four square -feet. A cap should be put over this to prevent an entrance of rain, but -not to contract the draught space. - -You will see by this arrangement you have a large chimney with a -fire-place at the bottom large enough to receive the stove or range. -Now construct a sliding sash with double strength glass, and balanced -with weights, with the upper end of sash inside the draught flue, and the -lower end to reach within a foot of the floor, and about four inches from -the side of stove. You will readily perceive that the heat from the stove -inside the flue will constantly cause a strong draught between the bottom -of the sash and the floor, which will prevent heat from escaping into the -kitchen, keeping it as cool as any room in the house. Even with the sash -up, the draught will take nearly all the heat through the flue over the -stove, carrying with it the steam and odor during the process of cooking. -A coat of whitewash inside the brick-work will add to the appearance and -give light, which is shadowed by the flue. - -The kitchen should be large and light, and, if possible, be joined by a -broad covered porch, upon which much of the kitchen work can be done in -warm weather. - -As this little book is merely hints to builders, we cannot go into the -details of hot and cold water, stationary wash-tubs and such matters. But -we will say, more important than all this is a well-constructed drain -pipe, not less than three inches in diameter, leading from the kitchen -sink to a point some distance (according to the nature of the ground) -from the house. This pipe inside the kitchen, should have a trap to -prevent offensive odors escaping into the room. - - - - -SAMPLE SHINGLES. - - -We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our WALTER’S PATENT -SHINGLES (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt -of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but -we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in -building. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, - New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ F.—_Front Elevation._ - -SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,300 to $2,600.] - - * * * * * - -BRONZE METAL SHINGLES.—We believe we are the first to offer Bronze Metal -Shingles to the World; certainly the first to manufacture them in the -United States. No other metal known for house covering is their equal, -not excepting copper, which in its pure state is rather soft and pliable, -unless of a weight to practically exclude its use. - -Bronze Metal is hard, rigid and sufficiently ductile to make the most -serviceable roofing material for public and first-class private buildings -in the world. Any house designed to exist as a memorial of man’s sagacity -and thrift should be covered with these shingles. They are as enduring as -marble; they will wear for any length of time. - -We make them in three sizes—7 by 10, 10 by 14, and Queen Anne style. -Prices furnished upon application. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - Office, 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ F.—_Side Elevation._ - -Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with -7 × 10, same quality; and porches with Broad-Rib Tin Roofing. Use attic -ventilators and lights (see page 73) on main roof.] - - * * * * * - - LITITZ, PA., February 27th, 1885. - - Dear Sirs:—I was the first man in this town to cover my new - house, built last summer, with Walter’s Patent Charcoal Tin - Shingles, and will say that they have given, thus far, entire - satisfaction. They are not only ornamental but durable, and - since my roof has introduced them in our town, a great many - have been put on, all giving satisfaction. I am sure that this - is the material for roofing houses in the future. They are - better than any other roof now in use, and will take the place - of wood shingles, which are getting scarce, and also of slate - roofs, which are broken by storms. Mine has stood the test - of the severest storms, during the summer and winter, known - here for many years, and has proven itself what you claim it - is—absolutely wind, rain and storm-proof. - - JOHNSON MILLER, Secretary. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ F.—(_Elevations, pages 31 and 32._)] - - * * * * * - - CEDAR BLUFF, ALA., February 20th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Enclosed find exchange for one hundred and forty and - 50/100 dollars to cover bill roofing. - - I am delighted with the Walter’s shingle, and the universal - verdict of all who have seen my roof is that it is a perfect - beauty. You will hear from me again, and you may expect other - orders from this place. - - Yours truly, - - R. LAWRENCE. - - - - -BRICK-WORK. - - -“Brick from the run of the kiln” will answer for most houses; those of -even color, well-burnt and regular shape, should be selected for the -outside walls and chimneys. Those of irregular shape, too hard or too -soft for outside walls, can be used for filling in, or partition walls. -No soft burnt brick should be allowed where exposed to the weather. -Supposing the foundation is finished, and first-floor joists are laid, -commence by filling between joists, flush with the top of joists and even -with the inside of foundation walls, so no shelves are left between the -joists for the purpose shown in hints under the head of “Foundation,” -page 6. - -If the inside of outside walls are to be furred, be prepared to insert -strips about the thickness of common lath between brick joints at points -where base boards are to be put, and to fasten long strips or grounds as -called by plasterers. No mortar should be put between the lath strip and -the brick, but let the lath be pressed by the surface of the upper and -lower brick; the natural settling of the wall will hold the lath tight -enough to bear any amount of nailing. - -For doors and windows, insert pieces same thickness, but large enough to -receive the casings. These thin pieces inserted in the mortar joints are -better and cheaper than plugs or wooden brick, which are apt to shrink -and become loose when the brick-work dries. It is very important that -flues for ventilation and chimneys be properly started (see “Chimneys”) -and carried through the roof to a height, if possible, above the apex -of the roof. Ventilating flues should run alongside the chimney flues -where the construction favors them. Too much care cannot be taken in -building these flues. They should be carefully and smoothly plastered on -the inside, and no wood-work be allowed nearer than five inches from the -inside of flue. It is customary to use headers (cross bricks) every five -courses, to bind the walls together. Many people object to headers, and -prefer to expose only the edge surface of the brick. This can be done by -clipping the inside courses of outside brick so as to allow the middle -course to lay angular across the wall, with opposite courses resting half -way between and on the outside courses, or by using square brick. The -latter is a saving of labor if they can be had at a reasonable price. -The thickness of walls depends entirely upon the size of structure to be -built. For ordinary dwelling-houses, twelve inches is thick enough for -outside walls and nine inches for partition walls. Mortar for brick-work -above foundation should be made of one part of good lime, slacked at -time of mixing the mortar, and four parts of screened sharp sand. The -cementing qualities of sand and fresh lime depend on the purity of the -sand. By pure sand we mean that which is free from loam or clay. - - - - -STANDARD CHARCOAL ROOFING TIN SHINGLES. - - -Our Standard Charcoal Roofing Tin Shingles are made of such brands as -“Mansel,” “Dean,” “Worcester,” “P. T. L.” &c., and guaranteed to be -first-class, well-coated plates, perfect in finish. Next comes our -Galvanized (re-dipped) shingle; this is our Standard Tin Shingle, taken -after it is made and dipped into melted zinc, adding a second coat -of fully twenty pounds on each square, giving with the tin, a more -durable coating than that used on galvanized iron, making it absolutely -rust-proof and saving painting. Next is what we call “Old Process” or “M. -F.” This is what is known as “Old Style,” “Double-Dipped,” “Old Method,” -and other names, but what is really a very superior article of roofing -plate, having a much heavier coating than “Standard,” but, like it, has -to be painted. There are many brands of practically one quality in the -market, and, having no choice ourselves, we supply the brand preferred; -but if the best is asked for, we send “Old Process,” believing it to be -equal to any. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - - - - -THINGS ARE ONLY GOOD OR BAD BY COMPARISON. - - -WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES COMPARED WITH SLATE. - -Our shingles are not one-sixth the weight of slate, which greatly reduces -the cost of the frame-work of roof. They readily conform to the shape of -a roof, which slate will not do. Slate is not thoroughly fire-proof, as -heat from an adjoining building on fire will cause the slate to crack, -which would destroy the best roof in a few minutes, leaving the sheeting -exposed. Especially is this the case if water is thrown on them while hot. - -Our shingles are free from the many accidents to which slate roofs are -liable, such as cracking from shrinkage of wood-work to which they -are attached; breaking, caused by necessary repairs to the valleys or -chimneys; and the effect of frost on defective slate. Such defects cannot -always be avoided by ordinary observation. All builders of experience are -aware of the expensive repairs necessary to keep a slate roof in good -order, but perhaps the most inconsistent thing connected with the whole -roofing business is the fact that nineteen-twentieths of all the houses -covered with slate =have gutters lined with the same material of which -our shingles are made=, while slate was used for covering because of its -supposed durability. - -Should anything fall on our shingles it would probably dent them -without causing a break; but should it perforate them, the shingles can -be replaced by another, or a leak can be soldered, and fire from an -adjoining roof cannot more than injure the paint. They will cool off -rapidly, retaining their shape. - - -WALTER’S PATENT TIN SHINGLES COMPARED WITH ORDINARY TIN ROOFING. - -Of this we speak with the advantage of many years’ experience as -practical roofers. The great difficulty metal roofers have to contend -with is contraction and expansion of the metal under the changes of -temperature. This cause alone calls for continued repairs in all flat -lock or standing seam roofs, and the seams underneath are receptacles for -any moisture which may condense on the underside of the metal. All such -roofs first show decay in the cross seams, and this, while the body of -the plates shows no sign of decay. Our shingles have no cross seam, and -are sufficiently ventilated to prevent condensation of moisture; while -a glance at their construction shows at once that the difficulty caused -by contraction and expansion is successfully overcome. Our shingles do -not require the skilled labor which is necessary to lay the flat lock or -standing groove metal roofing, while the time required to lay a given -surface is much less. - -In estimating the difference of cost between the ordinary tin roofing and -our shingle, a steep roof house alone must be taken in consideration, as -our shingle is not proposed for a flat roof. (See “Comparative Cost,” -pages 26 and 27.) - - - - -ROOFING SUNDRIES. - - -We were the first to manufacture a full line of Valley, Hip and Ridge -Coping, Gable, &c., to enable the builder or roofer to use them at -a reasonable price, and are the only factory in America prepared to -furnish such trimming in any quantity; and while they are not absolutely -necessary, they greatly lessen the amount of labor and cost of laying, -besides adding a finish to the roof not otherwise obtained, so that the -saving in labor will pay the additional cost. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ E.—_Front and Side Elevation._ - -SIX-ROOM COTTAGE. - -Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,000 to $2,300. - -Use Broad-Rib Steel Plate with attic vents (see page 73) for roof, and 10 -× 14 No. 2 Metal Shingles for gables.] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ E.—_Elevations, page 38._] - - * * * * * - -ROOF PAINT.—We use the best Brown Mineral Oxide of Iron, roasted and -double-ground, mixed with boiled linseed oil, grinding them together, and -adding only enough turpentine to dry in the air in seventy-two hours. -We first dip the shingles, and after they have stood a short time, and -before the paint has set, they are carefully gone over with a brush, -insuring an even, perfect coat, not obtainable in any ordinary way of -painting. - - * * * * * - -All tin roofers, who have experience, know the importance of putting on -a second coat. In spite of the best care in laying, more or less paint -is scratched off, and without a second coat the roof is not finished. -Architects and builders always require it, and if a heavy single coat -of paint is given the roof every five or six years, there will be no -perceptible wear on the tin, insuring many years’ service. - - - - -OUR NEW PATENT. - - -[Illustration: Patented April 4th, 1882. Patented Nov. 8th, 1887.] - -Our Queen Anne Shingles are designed expressly to meet a want often -expressed for an attractive and artistic roof covering and outside -decorating. They are not intended to take the place of our Standard -Walter’s Patent, which for general use are incomparable, but less -ornamental than the Queen Anne Shingles. They have bold clean cut lines, -producing, from the effects of light and shade, the most striking and -artistic roof yet produced by metallic shingles or tiles. - -For church spires, belt coursing, towers or mansard roofing, they cannot -be excelled. The cut illustrates the kind of finish used at the eaves and -verge board. The same ridge coping used for our Standard Shingles can be -used for this. This shingle must be seen to be appreciated. - -We recommend the Bronze Metal, or the Galvanized Shingles for use on -public or first-class private buildings, because such buildings should be -covered with the best roofing material to be had. - - * * * * * - -Each superficial foot of brick wall, - - 4 inches thick requires 7 brick. - 8 “ “ “ 15 “ - 12 “ “ “ 22 “ - 16 “ “ “ 29 “ - 20 “ “ “ 37 “ - 24 “ “ “ 45 “ - - * * * * * - -SURFACE MEASURE.—All roofers compute roofing jobs by squares, which -means 100 square feet, or 10 feet square. If you go to your architect or -roofer and ask him how much it will take or cost to cover your roof, he -will first ascertain how many square feet there are to be covered; and -if, for example, there are 2,500 square feet he will tell you there are -twenty-five squares to be covered; and in order to intelligently supply -what is wanted, we put up our shingles in boxes of one square each; that -is to say, each box of one square will cover one hundred square feet -after they have been put on. - - - - -OLD MATERIALS. - - -In tearing down old work be as careful as in putting up new. - -Old material should never be destroyed simply because it is old. - -When putting away old stuff see that it is protected from rain and the -atmosphere. - -It costs about 15 per cent. extra to work up old material, and this -fact should be borne in mind, as I have known several contractors who -paid dearly for their “whistle” in estimating on working up second-hand -material. - -These remarks apply to wood-work only. In using old bricks, stone, slate -and other miscellaneous materials, it is as well to add double price for -working up. - -Workmen do not care to handle old material, and justly so. It is ruinous -to tools, painful to handle, and very destructive to clothing. - -In my experience I always found it pay to advance the wages of -workmen—skilled mechanics—while working up old material. This encouraged -the men and spurred them to better efforts. - -Sash frames, with sash weights, locks and trim complete, may be taken out -of old buildings that are being taken down and preserved just as good as -new by screwing slats and braces on them, which not only keeps the frame -square, but prevents the glass from being broken. - -Doors, frames and trims may also be kept in good order until used, by -taking the same precautions as in window frames. - -Old scantlings and joists should have all nails drawn or hammered in -before piling away. - -Counters, shelving, drawers and other store-fittings should be kindly -dealt with. They will be wanted sooner or later. - -Take care of the locks, hinges, bolts, keys and other hardware. Each -individual piece represents money in a greater or lesser sum. - -Old flooring can seldom be utilized, though I have seen it used for -temporary purposes, such as fencing, covering of veranda floors while -finishing work on plastering, etc. As a rule, however, it does not pay to -take it up carefully and preserve it. Conductor pipes, metallic cornices, -and sheet metal work generally, can seldom be made available a second -time though all is worth caring for, as some parties may use it for -repairs. - -Sinks, wash-basins, bath-tubs, traps, heating appliances, grates, mantels -and hearth-stones should be moved with care. They are always worth money -and may be used in many places as substitutes for more inferior fixings. - -Marble mantels require the most careful handling. - -Perhaps the most difficult fixings about a house to adapt a second time -are the stairs. Yet I have known where a man has so managed to put up new -buildings that the old stairs taken from another building just suited. -This may have been a “favorable accident,” but the initiated reader will -understand him. Seldom such accidents can occur. - -Rails, balusters and newels may be utilized much readier than stairs, as -the rail may be lengthened or shortened to suit variable conditions. - -Gas fixtures should be cared for and stowed away in some dry place. They -can often be made available, and are not easily renovated if soiled or -tarnished. - -It is not wise to employ men who have nothing but their strength to -recommend them. As a rule they are like bears—have more strength than -knowledge, and lack of the latter is often an expensive desideratum. -Employ for taking down the work good careful mechanics, and do not have -the work “rushed through.” Rushers of this sort are expensive. - -Never send old material to a mill to be sawed or planed, no matter how -carefully nails, pebbles and sand have been hunted for, the saw or planer -knives will most assuredly find some you have overlooked, then there will -be trouble at the mill. - -Have some mercy for the workman’s tools. If it can be avoided do not work -up old stuff into fine work. If not avoidable pay the workman something -extra because of injury to tools. - -Don’t grumble if you do not get as good results from the use of old -material as from new. The workman has much to contend with while working -up old nail-speckled, sand-covered material. - - _Builder and Woodworker._ - - - - -HEATING. - - -[Illustration: STEAM AND WARM AIR COMBINED.] - -I once knew a church building committee who planned and built quite -a large church, and when I was called in to arrange for heating the -building with a large furnace, the furnace committee were astonished when -told that the building committee had forgotten the fact that the hot-air -furnace required a chimney. - -The construction of many houses suggests that houses built in the hot -months of summer needed no special provision for heating. This is an -important subject, and should be carefully considered in the construction -of the plainest house. Always take climate, location and fuel into -consideration. The open fire place, with fire on the hearth, is without -doubt the most cheerful and healthful. This is the favorite and best mode -for plain country homes. But in all instances, for churches and public -halls, the open fire-place is not to be depended upon. There is a variety -of good steam-heaters and hot-air furnaces to choose from. Consult -the parties from whom you buy as to the size of heater required; its -location, size of cold-air duct, register, pipe, etc. - -For small rural churches that have no basement, construct a small room -under the front entrance or vestibule; eight feet square, inside measure, -is sufficient. Near its floor have a cold-air entrance leading to the -furnace. Cover the opening with wire netting to prevent the entrance of -mice. Use brick for the room, building the walls eight inches thick; -leave openings 2½ × 4 inches, about one foot apart all around the bottom -next to the floor. Carry the wall close to the ceiling, and make it tight -by plastering carefully inside and out where it joins the ceiling. -Cover the ceiling, by nailing to joists, with bright sheets of tin, and -white-wash the brick-work inside. For entrance make a door 6 × 3 feet. -A plain wooden one will answer. In the aisle of the church, immediately -over this room, put a large grating, such as your furnace-men will -suggest. In this room place your furnace, and have it _large enough_ -to heat the room above during the coldest weather _without excessive -firing_. With a larger capacity than necessary, the furnace will last -longer, burn less coal, and give better results in every respect. As the -furnace will radiate considerable heat, this can be utilized by running -a pipe of proper size from the room to the vestibule or some other room. -The objection to using this heat in the church is the noise of firing -up, which would be annoying during church service. However, a furnace -properly attended will not need firing during church service. Remember, a -large volume of _warm_ air is what you want, and _not_ a small volume of -_hot_ air. Never cover the grating or close the cold-air duct to cool off -while there is fire in the furnace, but open the doors or windows of the -church and check the fire. The closing of the grating or cold-air duct -will injure the castings of the furnace by overheating them. - - - - -CLOSE SHEATHING THE BEST. - - -While a rain-proof roof can be made with our shingles, our system, as -well as all metal or slate roofing should not be put upon open sheathing. -If walked upon the metal will not support the weight, and bends out of -shape, and the roof is blamed. In high latitudes where we have driving -storms of fine snow or “blizzards,” _we specify close sheathing covered -by paper_ (_using same rules as for laying slate_). We will then -guarantee a perfect roof. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. - - - - -THE CISTERN. - - -Three things are all that are necessary to supply any family with the -purest and best water in the world for drinking, cooking and washing -purposes: a well-constructed cistern, a clean roof and a rain-fall. - -[Illustration: CUT-OFF ATTACHMENT. - - _A._ To connect with down pipe. - _B._ Outlet for waste water. - _C._ Leads to filter or cistern. - _D._ Is adjustable to fit box _C_. - _E._ Fastenings to wall of house. - _F._ Side view of _D_. - _G._ Handle to adjust _D_. - -(Not patented; can be made by any tinsmith.)] - -These are within the reach of every one able to own a home. By a cistern -we mean an excavation in the earth from twelve to twenty-five feet deep. -Dig deep if you want cold water all the year round. From eighteen to -twenty-five feet will produce it. If your cistern is dug in a clayey -soil, there is no use of brick lining; but if in gravel, sandy or rocky -soil, line the inside with hard, well burnt brick, and do the work well; -using for mortar equal parts of hydraulic lime and clean, sharp sand. -When completed, plaster the inside carefully with the same mortar. If -the walls are clay plaster immediately on the sides and bottom, without -lining with brick. - -No roofing material is better for collecting chemically pure water than -tin, and none so bad as wood shingles. They hold dirt which no ordinary -shower will wash off, and furnish organic matter which is disagreeable -to the taste and smell; the porous nature of wood makes it the home of -myriads of insects, the remains of which are eventually deposited in the -cistern and poison its waters. - -No such objections can be urged against tin roofing. A short shower -cleanses it thoroughly. Water-pipes leading into the cistern in every -case should have a cut-off attachment within easy reach. - -There are several on the market, but those having no inside arrangement -to get out of order, or obstruct the direct passage of water into -either the cistern or waste-pipe, are the best. The water should be -strained before entering the cistern. This can be built of brick and be -underground, or a cask can be used above ground. A strong, iron-bound -linseed oil barrel answers the purpose. Its construction is very simple. -Take out one end of the cask and perforate it with a sufficient number -of one-inch auger holes; lay four brick on edge in the bottom of the -cask, and let the perforated cask head rest upon them. Then fill the cask -three-quarters full of charcoal, pounding it down on top pretty hard. Put -on top of the charcoal clean, coarse gravel to within three inches of the -top of cask; make a covering with an opening to receive the water which -flows from the roof, and convey the water from the bottom of cask to the -cistern. At least once a year this filter should be emptied and cleansed, -putting in new charcoal and washing the gravel carefully. Let no summer -months’ water run into the cistern. See that the first rain of a shower -is used to wash the dust and soot from your roof before it is turned into -the cistern, and you will have an abundance of water not equaled by any -well or spring. - - - - -BUILDING PAPERS. - - -[Illustration] - -NEPONSET PAPER is absolutely water-proof and air-tight, is clean to -handle, not tarred felt, but far more durable. Its resistance to air and -dampness renders it unsurpassed under clapboards, iron roofing and wood -or tin shingles. - -CLIMAX is a light, clean, pink, colored paper; useful for any purpose -where building paper is required; is much cheaper than Neponset, but not -water-proof. The use of building paper under roofing or clapboards adds -greatly to the ease of warming a building. By its use you save fuel and -your house is more comfortable. Its cost is nominal compared with its -advantages. We keep a large stock and fill orders promptly. - - - - -COLORS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. - - - Blue and yellow makes green. - White and yellow makes buff. - White, yellow and black makes drab. - White and black makes lead. - White and black makes gray. - White, black and blue makes pearl. - White and lake makes pink. - White, blue and black makes slate. - Red, black and blue makes brown. - Red, black and yellow makes maroon. - Red and yellow makes orange. - Blue and lake makes purple. - - * * * * * - - U. S. MARINE BARRACKS, NAVY YARD, PENSACOLA, FLA., - October 22d, 1887. - - SIRS:—In compliance with your request, I have to say that about - a year ago I was called upon to decide which of several kinds - of roofing material to select for two barrack buildings, which - I was constructing for the Government at this place. Owing to - the heat and moisture of the climate, very destructive to wood, - and the proximity of the Gulf of Mexico, which makes what is - known as a salt atmosphere, very injurious to iron roofing, I - was induced to try your system, and ordered the 14 × 20 size, - I. C. Standard, some painted and some galvanized. As it was - previously almost unknown to me, I had to assume the risk of - its success, and have since watched it very closely; the more - so, as it was laid by soldiers entirely unfamiliar with it. - - After the first rain a close inspection failed to reveal a - single leak. I have had it inspected after every heavy rain - since then with the same result. On the 20th inst. we had the - severest gale for many years, and the roofs not only resisted - it in every way, but there was no rattle, which could not be - said of our other tin roofs (old system). - - You can refer any one to me for commendation of these points - which are established; also of its architectural beauty, and - I have little doubt as to the rest, for we painted it very - carefully on both sides. - - I am, Sirs, very respectfully yours, - - HENRY CLAY COCHRANE, - Captain U. S. Marine Corps, Commanding Post. - - * * * * * - -The combination of cherry and light oak proves an excellent one for -over-mantels, for, in addition to contrast of grain, and figure, and -hue, is that of the high polish of which cherry is susceptible with the -somewhat ridgy surface of the oak. - - * * * * * - -One coat of paint takes 20 lbs. of lead and 4 gals. of oil per 100 square -yards. The second coat, 40 lbs. lead, 4 gals. oil; the third, the same -as the second—say 100 lbs. lead, 12 gals. oil per 100 square yards, for -three coats. - - * * * * * - - One gallon priming colors covers 50 square yards. - “ white zinc “ 50 “ - “ white lead “ 44 “ - “ lead color “ 50 “ - “ black paint “ 50 “ - “ stone color “ 44 “ - “ yellow paint “ 44 “ - “ blue color “ 45 “ - “ green paint “ 45 “ - “ bright emerald “ 25 “ - “ bronze green “ 75 “ - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: COMPARATIVE PITCH OF ROOFS.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ J.—_Front Elevation._ - -EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.] - - * * * * * - -OUR GUARANTEE. - -We guarantee our shingles as follows: If you will use them, and _they are -properly put on in accordance with our instructions_, and if they do not -then give satisfaction, we agree to replace your roof, free of expense to -you, with equally expensive material, any time within two years from the -time you put them on. In addition to this, we may be able to give you a -local reference, as our goods are in use in every State and Territory. We -call your attention to the price list, and we will be pleased to make you -discounts on application. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th St., New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ J.—_Side Elevation._] - -Cover roof with No. 1 Standard 10 × 14 Tin Shingles; use attic vents (see -page 73) on main roof, and cover belt courses with 7 × 10 Tin Shingles, -same quality as those for main roof. - -The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each -been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and -the proportions and details can be relied upon. - -[Illustration: _Second Floor._ - -_First Floor._ - -_Design_ J.—(_Elevations, pages 51 and 52._)] - - - - -SHOWING APPLICATION OF OUR RIDGE OR HIP COPING. - - -[Illustration: Plain Ridge.] - -[Illustration: Manner of Fastening Climax Ridge to Roof Boards.] - -[Illustration: Showing Climax Ridge and Gable Finish.] - -These cuts are good illustrations of our Ridge Finish, which is also used -as Hip Coping. It is secured to the roof comb by nailing through the -flange, which rests on each side of the comb. It makes a durable and neat -finish; is of great assistance to workmen not skilled in metal roofing, -and its cost is no more than the labor and material necessary in making -the regular standing seam used by roofers in finishing the comb of sheet -metal roofs. - -FOR RE-COVERING.—Use our Roofing; no other has the conveniences for rapid -laying. - - - - -VENTILATION. - - -[Illustration: The “Attic” Sky-light and Ventilator. (See page 78.)] - -As you value health, study well this important subject, which is oftener -neglected in constructing dwellings than any other detail. An experienced -and observant man can pick from those whom he meets on the street men or -women who habitually sleep in badly ventilated rooms. The florist will -study and practice the best means to ventilate his propagating house, -and ignore the necessity of the same principle for himself and family. -Everything that breathes—and what living thing does not?—needs a change -of air to remain in a healthy condition. Leaves are the lungs of plants, -and, deprived of this change, soon assume a delicate, sickly hue. - -Why should the human family, in full possession of reasoning powers, -ignore the lesson that is every day before them? By ventilation we mean -a system that will constantly supply the dwelling with fresh air; at the -same time it draws the vitiated atmosphere from each hall and room in -the house. This can be done during the process of erection in a simple, -effectual and inexpensive manner. Even if it should cost more than you -feel inclined to pay, the result will justify the expense. - -There is no better way of creating upward draught than the open -fire-place, or a flue built with an opening near the floor. Such flues -should not be less than 8 × 8 inches for an ordinary size bedroom, and -should, if possible, be built alongside of the chimney flue, and extend -through the house-top without openings, except the one nearest the floor -in the room it starts from. - -As vitiated air is heavier than pure air, and is always nearest the -floor, the artificial draught caused by a long, upright flue is -constantly at work carrying the lower atmosphere from each room in which -these upward and outward draught flues are built. To supply the rooms -with fresh air, corresponding flues must be built similar in size and -construction to the above. Commence them with outside openings about -on a level with the first floor joists, extending upward, and end with -openings inward near the ceiling. Each of these openings outside and -inside the house should be covered with coarse wire cloth. That made -from tinned or galvanized No. 16 wire, with one-half in. meshes, is the -best. Care should be taken in building these flues to have them smoothly -plastered on the inside. An ornamental finish can be used at each end if -desired. By this arrangement a steady flow of fresh air, both night and -day, is secured without the ill effects of strong draughts. - -Do not try to economize by using one flue for two or more rooms. Good -results are only secured by using a set of flues for each room or hall. -I have seen ventilating flues built to open through the cornice. That -is a bad plan, for even a slight wind will check the draught while -blowing against that side. If the flues are properly finished after -passing through the roof the wind will increase the draught. The above -suggestions answer equally as well for frame houses. It is easy to -construct wood flues between the weatherboarding and lath. - - - - -COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE. - - -The object of this invention is to supply the builder with a -conductor-pipe that will not burst after freezing, which all pipes -without provision for expansion are liable when water is frozen solid -in them. The peculiarity of the joint lies in the wedge principle, -applied in a manner which forces the rim of the inside lap hard against -the overlapping end with strength sufficient to do without soldering -the joints. Besides this, each joint is provided with a fastening which -prevents the pipe from settling. This fastening may or may not be used, -but if used in connection with the ordinary pipe hook (which does not -prevent the pipe from settling) makes a very superior fastening. - -The V-shaped corrugation prevents bursting, as it allows the pipe to -expand when frozen, thus preventing its bursting. We make two sizes, -three and four inches in diameter, twenty-eight inches long, using tin -plate, which we galvanize with zinc after it is formed, making a pipe -superior to any galvanized iron pipe of equal weight. We make the same -not galvanized, but painted one coat inside and out with linseed oil and -oxide of iron paint. - -[Illustration: COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE. - -AMPLE PROVISION FOR EXPANSION.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Design_ B.—_Front and Side Elevation._ - -SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. - -Estimated Cost, $1,200 to $1,500. - -Cover main roof with No. 2 14 × 20 Metal Shingles; gables with same, and -porches with 7 × 10, same quality. Attic ventilators will improve the -appearance and give additional light to the rooms under roof (see page -73).] - -[Illustration: _First Floor._ _Second Floor._ - -_Design_ B.—(_Elevations, page 58._)] - - - - -NAILS. - - -[Illustration] - -STEEL WIRE BARBED NAILS are superior to any cut nail made. Are lighter, -stronger and easier to drive. Holding firmer in the wood, and having a -larger flat head, they hold the tin to the roof boards much better, are -nearly double the quantity to the pound, and therefore fully as cheap. - - - - -DEADENING AND FIRE-PROOFING FLOORS. - - -[Illustration] - -This can be accomplished in a simple and inexpensive manner by nailing -strips 1 × 1½ inches along the side of each joist, the top edge of each -strip to be two inches below the top surface of the joist. On top of -these strips lay a floor of rough boards. Second-hand material answers -every purpose for the floor, as the boards need not be matched or of even -thickness. - -On the top of this rough floor spread a covering of coarse mortar gauged -level with the top edge of the joist. When the mortar is dry lay the -floor in the usual manner. It takes a long time for fire to burn through -a floor laid in this manner, and sound is deadened completely by the -mass of non-conducting mortar and the double floors. For fire-proofing -and deadening partitions in an effective way, build a four-inch brick -wall between the studding. A nail driven every ten or twelve inches in -the side of the studding, on the line of the mortar joint, will hold the -wall firmly between the studding. Where brick is scarce or expensive, -sun dried brick made from stiff clay is a good substitute. They can be -made 12 × 12 inches, and thick enough to come within ⅜ of an inch of the -lathing. The mortar keys impinging against the wall make the plastering -firmer and consequently stronger. - -The expense of fire-proofing and deadening in this manner is so small, -it is surprising it is not more generally adopted. If the flooring is -laid before the mortar used between the joists is dry, it will cause the -boards to swell and may bulge them; and when they finally become dry will -leave ugly looking cracks where they join. Remember, you cannot have a -well built house without giving Nature time to do her work. - - - - -DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES. - - -[Illustration: Cut I. - -Shows manner of finishing with Climax Ridge Stop Block and Gable End -Finish.] - -Commence at the lower left-hand corner. In starting be particular to see -that you start straight with the eaves of the building. To do this it -is best to draw a chalk line about twelve inches from the eaves; this -distance leaves two inches to project from the eaves, which in many cases -is more than sufficient. If you use our Gable End Finish (Cut I) it saves -the trouble of fitting the shingles to the verge board, and adds to the -appearance of the roof. After nailing the Gable End Finish to its place, -press the left-hand edge of the first shingle well under the fold of -the Gable End Finish, and before nailing it hook two or three shingles -with the top edge on a line with your chalk line; then remove the loose -shingles, and nail the first one which is held to its proper place by the -Gable End Finish. By doing this in starting each course you are sure of a -straight line if you follow correctly the gauge lines at the top of each -shingle. - -[Illustration: Cut A. - -Shows commencement of first two courses.] - -If your roof has a =pitch of six inches to the foot, or steeper, let the -bottom edge of the shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the -top of the underlying shingle, as shown in Cut A=. But if the pitch of -the roof is less than six inches to the foot, let the shingle entirely -cover the lower gauge line, as shown in Cut B. - -[Illustration: Cut B.] - -We advise against the use of our shingles on roofs of less pitch than -five inches to the foot, unless the lap is increased. As a rule, we think -any roof that can be walked over with safety is too flat for shingles of -either wood or metal. - -[Illustration: Cut F.] - -Should there be a gutter formed at the eave, let the shingle rest on it -as you would in using the ordinary wood shingle. (Remember every other -course =commences with a half shingle, as shown in Cuts A and B=.) The -same rules that govern the laying of slate or the common wood shingle -along valleys, or about chimneys and dormer windows, are applicable to -ours, except the tin shingles are bent up against the sides of chimneys, -which cannot be done with wood or slate. When our shingles turn up -against the sides of chimneys or brick walls, insert flashing by sawing -out the mortar joint above the line of tin work; where the upper edge of -our shingles butts against the brick wall, as they do on the lower side -of chimneys, cut them off on the line where the chimney comes to the -roof, and use a strip of tin bent in this manner. (See Cut F.) The upper -end at A is to fit in mortar joint. The lower edge, B, is nailed to the -sheathing before the shingles are put on. The upper ends of shingles are -then to be pressed up under the fold, C. Great care should be used in -finishing about chimneys and dormers, the details of which cannot well be -explained to suit each case; but a workman of ordinary skill can suggest -the proper manner in which the work should be done to secure thoroughly -tight work. - -It is much easier to secure this result with the use of our shingles than -it is with either wood or slate. - -Where the upper end of shingle butts against the side of a frame house, -use the same means as on the lower side of chimneys, only let there be -no bend at the point A, as shown in Cut F; but let it extend an inch or -so up under the weather boarding. Where the weather boarding is vertical -there is no way of making tight work but to put the tin work, as before -described, back of the vertical weather board. - -In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half inch -over the lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We furnish to each -customer a small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to turn this edge -over and pinch it together after the shingle is laid. - -[Illustration: Cut D.] - -The Cut D represents the shingles laid to and from the valley. In -starting from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, or -tack them at the top, then with a straight-edge mark and cut where they -overlap the valley; and with the hand-tongs edge and lock them to the -valley, as shown in cut D. - -Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and press the -shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut to suit the -angle of the hip. (See Cut E.) - -[Illustration: Cut E.] - -As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip Coping -through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, therefore, -particular to say wherever this Hip, or our Plain Ridge Coping (which is -the same thing) is used it should be nailed to the roof boards before the -shingles are put on. The fold is made expressly to receive the edge of -the shingles. Cut E shows this coping and the manner of applying it. - -We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the Northern States, -where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, the necessity of -using close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not close, =the use of -sheathing paper, to be laid underneath the shingles=; it adds greatly to -the warmth of the house in winter, and prevents small particles of snow -from entering, it costs but little, and should always be used under wood, -slate or tin shingles where the best protection is desired. - -DO NOT HAMMER DOWN THE JOINTS OR LOCK. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: PAINTING DEPARTMENT] - - - - -PAINTING. - - -After the mason, bricklayer, carpenter, tinsmith and plasterer comes the -painter. At this stage of progress in the work, the owner usually thinks -of moving in; in fact, he thinks he should have been living in his new -house several weeks ago. - -If weather conditions have been good, the representatives of other -branches of house building have got along smoothly excepting a little -shaking up now and then, caused mostly by the men occasionally yielding -to the seductive influences of Old John Barleycorn or his rival King -Growler. The owner, having previously engaged or contracted for inside -painting, now calls on the painter. The man of colors and brushes is -always ready to promise quick work (and we are free to say the mysteries -of his trade are equal to any reasonable emergency), and is apt to humor -his employer’s impatience, and meekly submits to his wishes knowing that -his employer’s hurry is his gain. House-builder, did it ever occur to you -that first-class inside painting is a slow process? Think of this; after -the first coat is laid, it should stand long enough to become thoroughly -dry, dry enough to be sand-papered. The second coat should be a little -heavier than the first or priming coat. It does not dry as fast as the -first. (We are speaking of good materials properly proportioned.) Each -coat must be thoroughly dry before it is sand-papered. Any kind of good -work requires three coats. Extra good work—four, besides varnishing. - -If you succeed in doing this work inside of four weeks you are fortunate. -Thus you see it requires time to do good work. Time for the men to do -theirs, and time for Nature to do hers. Sometimes Nature frowns and -lowers a curtain of humidity for days at a time, which prevents the -oils from drying. It is possible for your painter to finish all four -coats in as many days; but if he is honest and you have not hurried him -unreasonably, his conscience will suffer. Good painting, like other good -things, is durable, looks well, and is the cheapest in the end. - -Good painters pride themselves on doing good work. So if you desire -first-class work, you should give the painter a reasonable price, and -sufficient time in which to do the work properly. - -There is doubtless more adulteration in paint than in any materials -used in house-finishing. So general is this the case that it is often -difficult to get pure materials. This is caused by the low price of the -products of petroleum, the earth materials used to adulterate mineral -paints, and the demand for cheap work. - - * * * * * - -ATTENTION, ROOFERS! - -Our BROAD RIB ROOFING and STEEL PLATE SHINGLES are not protected with -a coat of richer metal like those made of tin or terne plate, and -consequently their _durability depends upon the paint_ with which they -should be covered. - -For this purpose nothing, so far as we know, is equal to a mixture of -_pure unboiled linseed oil_ and the _oxide of iron_. The Shingles should -have two coats, one before they are put on, on both sides (this we do), -the other immediately _after they are laid_. This last coat should be -repeated _every four or five years_. - -Remember, it is the _rust-preventing_ qualities of linseed oil, combined -with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the -corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. (See -page 101.) - - - - -A PERFECT ROOF. - - -The best can only be obtained by using good materials, worked into the -best form that theory and experience can suggest. - -WALTER’S PATENT “STANDARD” AND COOPER’S PATENT “QUEEN ANNE” METALLIC -SHINGLES AND SIDING, - -made from Tin Plate, Steel Plate, Galvanized Tin Plate, Bronze Metal, and -Copper, are unrivaled for roof covering. - -BECAUSE they have a perfect lock, using no cleats, springs or exposed -seams. - -BECAUSE they have no exposed fastenings; all nail heads are covered as -perfectly as those used for wood shingles. - -BECAUSE they can be applied without the necessity of soldering, and with -no other tools than a hammer, a small pair of hand-tongs and tin shears. - -BECAUSE they break joints by starting each alternate course with a half -shingle, thus bringing the centre of the bottom of each shingle astraddle -of the locked shingle below, securely binding the same and preventing -rattling. - -BECAUSE they are easily and rapidly put on, requiring no odd pieces at -the eaves, gables or comb. - -BECAUSE they lessen the expense of insurance, which extends not only to -the building but to furniture and goods contained therein. - -BECAUSE they do not crack, split, warp, fall off, rust or burn. - -BECAUSE there are no cross seams or joints where rain or moisture can -settle and cause decay. - -BECAUSE we furnish with our shingles, at moderate cost, Valleys, Gable -Strips, Ridge and Hip Coping, that not only improves the finish of -exterior, but assists the workman to an extent that lessens the cost of -applying. - - Manufactured by - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City, - -and for sale by Dealers in all the principal cities of the United States -and Canada. - - * * * * * - - From BARTLETT HARDWARE CO., - - Freeport, Ill., January 10th, 1888. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., New York City. - - Dear Sirs:—I send you photo. of my house that you may see how - handsome a Roof the 7 × 10 Shingles make. You thought the 10 × - 14 would have been better, but this is the finest roof in this - country, and we expect to sell some the present year. Everybody - admires it. Please quote for the coming season’s trade. - - Very respectfully, - - F. BARTLETT, President. - - - - -WHAT OUR GOODS ARE. - - -In offering our goods to the public, we desire to say, briefly, that -the _Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates_ have now been -before this country for nearly eight years, upwards of twelve thousand -buildings have been covered with them in the United States and Canada, -and we feel warranted in referring to the owners of every building so -covered. - -Our shingles have a concealed nailing flange the entire length of the -shingle on one side, and a perfect lock with a concealed gutter at the -side of the nailing flange that provides for _expansion and contraction_, -with sufficient ventilation to prevent sweating on the under-side, -(causing rust,) so common in the cross seams of flat lock and standing -seam, now in use. - -Our Galvanized (Re-dipped) Shingle is our Standard Tin Shingle -galvanized; and, as every square has twenty pounds of zinc coating, in -addition to the first coat of tin, it will be seen why it is superior to -any galvanized iron made. - -Our “Old Process” prices are designed to cover such grades of -double-coated plates as “Old Style,” “M.F.,” “Phelp’s Triple Plate,” -“Gilbertson’s Old Method,” and “Tregoning Old Process,” all superior to -the Standard Grades, and higher in price. We quote all but Galvanized, -painted both sides. If any size or kind is ordered unpainted, the price -will be 25 cents per square less. - -Our Steel Plate Shingles are made from sheets of Bessemer steel rolled as -smooth as tin plate, they are painted the same as the Standard Shingles, -and when laid on a roof cannot be distinguished from them. They should be -painted every five years with pure linseed oil and oxide of iron (brown -mineral). They will not bear neglect; in this respect they differ from -shingles made from tin plate. The price is somewhat less, but the greater -durability of the Tin Shingles is worth more than the difference in -price. - -We make our shingles in four sizes: The smallest, 7 × 10, (showing an -exposed surface, after laid, of 5½ × 9 inches,) is designed for Mansards, -Spires, Siding, and other upright work. The 10 × 14, (exposed surface, -8¼ × 11½ inches,) is the popular size; and while it works to the best -advantage on complicated roofs, it is equally good for plain ones. The 14 -× 20, (exposed surface, 12 × 17½ inches,) is used largely on the plainer -roofs, where a saving in price and labor of putting on is an item. The 20 -× 28, (exposed surface, 17½ × 25½ inches,) is made from heavier metal, -and is designed for warehouses, and other large surfaces; and any of the -larger shingles can be used for siding equally as well. - -We are prepared to make any of the above sizes from any special brand of -tin plate in the market, but for our Standard goods, which we carry in -stock, we use a first-class grade of roofing tin plate, warranted perfect. - - -SAMPLES. - -We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our WALTER’S PATENT -SHINGLES (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt -of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but -we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in -building. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, - New York City. - - - - -BROAD RIB ROOFING, - - -[Illustration] - -=Like Our Shingles=, has a nailing flange the entire length of each -sheet. =It forms a Continuous Rib= when applied from eaves to comb -with cross seams twenty-five inches apart, which gives it strength and -rigidity not found in roofing where longer sheets are used. =It has no -protruding= anchors, cleats or rivets; all nail heads are covered as -perfectly as those used for wood shingles. =There is no waste= in using, -either at comb or eaves. =The Side Nailing Flange= admits of the roof -being fastened to roof boards with any required degree of strength. =The -Cross Seams= are formed with a folded lock which allows for contraction -and expansion. =Material.=—Each sheet of this roofing is made from Best -Roofing Tin, or Imported Siemen’s Sheet Steel, which is hard rolled, -tough, durable and =thoroughly coated= on both sides with the best -Oxide of Iron and Linseed Oil Paint. The size of sheets are 20 × 28 -inches. =Tools.=—We send with each order one pair of _Metal Shears_, one -_Mallet_, and a _Draw Tool_, for which we make a charge of two dollars. -These tools can be returned to us by express at our expense, and the -purchaser credited, or the money paid for them returned. =Important -Improvements= in the manufacture of Steel Sheets enable us to put this -on the market at the same price as Sheet Iron Roofing, to which it is -greatly superior. =The Rib is formed= of the Walter’s Patent Lock, and is -the same we have used on our shingles for the last seven years. This Lock -has been thoroughly tested, and it is significant that over 25,000,000 -square feet of shingles constructed upon this plan are already in use -in the United States and Canada. The application of this Lock does away -with a very large proportion of the work necessary in laying standing -seam roofs as ordinarily applied, such as tonging up the seams, double -seaming, capping or riveting the ribs, and making and using cleats or -other fastenings. This roofing costs no more than wood shingles in -sections where good timber is scarce. Each sheet is made from plates 20 × -28 inches. =WRITE FOR PRICES.= - -[Illustration] - -The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., 510-520 E. 20th St., N. Y. City. - - - - -THE “ATTIC” SKY-LIGHT AND VENTILATOR. - - -[Illustration] - -This is a novelty in roof ventilation, and possesses the advantage of -admitting light as well as ventilating rooms in the garret or immediately -under the roof. - -It can be used on any kind of a slope roof having a pitch of three inches -or more to the foot. The front is of double strength glass which is held -to its place by a single catch. When used as a ventilator the glass is -drawn back to the slant of the roof, and sheds what water would enter the -opening during a rain storm. All the carpenter work necessary in setting -the “Attic” is to saw a square hole through the roof boards at the time -of putting on the roof-covering. We make them to form one plate of our -Broad Rib Roofing with which it interlocks. As shown on page 55, they -can be used equally as well on roofs to be covered with slate or wood -shingles as with our Tin Shingles. - - - - -HOW TO SET A FINIAL. - - -[Illustration] - -Bore a hole in the upper end of the centre-staff and insert in it the -lower end of finial rod; when the centre-staff is put to its place, plumb -the finial rod by moving the lower end of the centre-staff before it is -nailed to the floor or cross timbers. (See page 74.) - -[Illustration: No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. - -NET PRICES: 5 Foot $12.00. 6 Foot $14.40. 7 Foot $16.80. - -For either Round, Square or Octagon. No. 1 includes all above the -Shingles. (See page 73.)] - -=There is no shoddy work about these Finials. They are heavy, -substantially made and zinc coated.= - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: SHIPPING DEPARTMENT] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: COOPERS CROOKS.] - -(Patented August 20th, 1889.) - -Complete and in Sections. Fixed and Adjustable. - -_The most Perfect Machine-made Elbow ever manufactured._ - -=First-class Finish.=—Each piece is a perfect section of a curved tube. - -=A Convenience.=—The sections can be put together to form any angle. - -=Durable and Strong.=—The finished elbows are redipped after being locked -and riveted. - -=Quality.=—Both Retinned and Galvanized. - -Perfect in fitting, uniform in size and quality. Just what the practical -tinsmith should use for conductors and vent pipes. - - ADJUSTABLE. | FIXED. | IN SECTIONS. - Size. Tin. Galv’d.| Size. Tin. Galv’d. | Size. Tin. - 3 inch $1.55 $2.00 | 3 inch $2.00 $2.00 | 3 inch $1.45 - 4 inch 2.80 3.90 | 4 inch 3.90 3.90 | 4 inch 2.50 - - _Discount_.......................... - - MANUFACTURED ONLY BY - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York. - - - - -WEIGHTS. - - -Our goods weigh, when boxed ready for shipment, as follows: - - 14 × 20, No. 1, Standard 84 lbs. - 10 × 14, “ “ 92 “ - 7 × 10, “ “ 89 “ - 14 × 20, No. 2, Steel 83 “ - 10 × 14, “ “ 89 “ - 14 × 20, No. 3, M. F. 100 “ - 10 × 14, “ “ 108 “ - 7 × 10, “ “ 108 “ - 14 × 20, No. 4, Galvanized 104½ “ - 10 × 14, “ “ 109½ “ - 7 × 10, “ “ 109½ “ - Queen Anne, No. 6, Standard 121½ “ - “ “ “ Galvanized 144 “ - Broad Rib, No. 8, Standard 88 “ - “ “ “ Steel 87 “ - 50 ft. Climax Ridge Coping, Tin 56½ “ - 50 ft. “ “ “ Galvanized 71 “ - 50 ft. Hip, Tin 38 “ - 50 ft. “ Galvanized 43 “ - 50 ft. Valley, Tin 45½ “ - 50 ft. “ Galvanized 53 “ - 50 ft. Gable, Tin 12½ “ - 50 ft. “ Galvanized 15½ “ - - - - -HOW METAL SHINGLES ARE MADE. - - -Shingles made from wood have been common all over the world for ages. -Their particular form has remained unchanged because many years’ -experience has proven it to be the most durable and surest safe-guard -against storms. What is true of wood for roof covering is equally true of -metal for the same purpose. The first metal roofing made in America was -tin sheets, laid shingle fashion, the overlapped edges of which covered -the nail heads which were used to fasten them to the roof boards. Many -of these old-fashioned metal (tin plate) roofs are yet in existence that -were covered over one hundred years ago. The writer covered several -houses in 1849 in this manner, which are in good condition now. The -reason why this style of metal roofing was not common was its expense. On -page 16 we give reasons why it would be more durable than the ordinary -mode of laying tin roofing. - -The use of Walter’s and Cooper’s patent in constructing metal shingles -does away with the expense, which was a great drawback to their use, and -leaves no excuse for the use of cheap, combustible material. - -The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., of New York City, have for the past -eight years been manufacturing these shingles, and their use on a vast -number of public and private buildings in all parts of the United States -and Canada attest their superiority. Thinking that our readers would -be pleased to see the process of making these shingles, we illustrate -on pages 65 and 75 views taken from photographs of their paint and -store room. The process requires two press operations for each shingle, -and each press averages a turn out of 4,000 square feet (which is 40 -squares) per day. The dies which give shape and form the corrugations of -the shingles are faced with polished steel, which leaves no abrasions -where they come in contact with the metal. During the past year they -have added four new presses to this department to meet the requirements -of the increased demand for their goods. They spare no pains to make -their shingles as perfect as the best machinery can make them. All their -shingles are carefully inspected before they are boxed and sent to the -store room, from which they are shipped to all parts of the country. The -machinery room in which the presses are located is 37 feet wide by 80 -feet long, the painting department is 80 × 55 feet, and the store room -the same size. We give these figures that you may form an opinion of the -space required to manufacture and handle their goods. - -The process of painting is first dipping the shingles in a vat of pure -linseed oil and oxide of iron paint with just enough turpentine to assist -in drying. They are then set on edge and left to drain, after which -they are gone over with a brush and set in racks to dry, which requires -several days, according to the humidity of the atmosphere. They are all -air dried, no artificial heat being used. Their customers are cordially -invited to call at any time and see the process of manufacturing. - - * * * * * - - “Why don’t you mend your roof my man?” - He drew him closer to the wall, - And answered with a lazy drawl: - “When ’t rains so hard I never can.” - - “Why don’t you mend it when it’s fair?” - “Oh, then it doesn’t need repair!” - He blandly said - As he turned his head - And shook the raindrops from his hair. - - From _The Metal Worker_. - - - - -[Illustration: WALTER’S PATENT STANDARD SHINGLES.] - -[Illustration: COOPER’S PATENT QUEEN ANNE METALLIC SHINGLES.] - - - - -PUBLIC BUILDINGS ON WHICH THE ABOVE METAL SHINGLES ARE USED. - - -RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. - - Independent Pres. Church, Savannah, Ga. - South-West Pres. Church, Omaha, Neb. - Methodist Church, Stony Point, N. Y. - Methodist Church, Graniteville, Conn. - Methodist Church, Broad River, Conn. - Asbury Methodist Church, Providence, R. I. - Second Methodist Church, Kingston, N. Y. - Pisgah Methodist Church, Pisgah, Md. - Methodist Church, Thomasville, Ga. - Elm St. Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn. - East Nashville Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn. - Methodist Church, Manheim, Pa. - Roman Catholic Church, Trinidad, Col. - Roman Catholic Church, Albuquerque, New Mexico. - German Evangelical Church, New Harmony, Ind. - Holy Apostles’ P. E. Church, St. Clair, Pa. - R. C. Church of St. Cecelia, N. Y. City. - R. C. Apostolic Church, Toronto, Ont. - St. Patrick’s R. C. Cathedral, Ottawa, Canada. - Baptist Church, Tura, India. - Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass. - Second Baptist Church, Lawrence, Mass. - Berkeley Ave. Bap. Church, Berkeley, Va. - Baptist Church, Danbury, Conn. - Colored Baptist Church, Augusta, Ga. - Christ Episcopal Church, Richmond, Va. - St. John’s Epis. Church, Richmond, Va. - Christ Episcopal Church, Port Tobacco, Md. - St. Clement’s Episcopal Church, Chicago, Ill. - Mission Church, Aintab, Turkey. - Mission Church, Kiota, Japan. - Bethany Chapel, Troy, N. Y. - Colonial Beach Chapel, Va. - Plymouth Church, Charleston, S. C. - M. E. Church, McMinville, Tenn. - First M. E. Church, Jackson, Mich. - Christian Church, Little Rock, Ark. - Second Baptist Church, Little Rock, Ark. - First Pres. Church, Gainesville, Fla. - M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb. - Round Hill Church, Va. - St. Paul Lutheran Church, Lititz, Pa. - Salvation Army Barracks, South Norwalk, Conn. - Methodist Church, Salt Lake City. - Christian Church, Belton, Texas. - Salvation Army Barracks, Matteawan, N. Y. - First Cong. Church, Daytona, Fla. - Jewish Synagogue, Brunswick, Ga. - - -RAILROADS. - - Savannah, Florida and Western R. R. - North-Eastern R. R. of South Carolina. - Western and North Carolina R. R. - New York, Susquehanna and Western R. R. - Chesapeake and Ohio R. R. - Florida Railway & Navigation Company. - South Florida Railway. - Virginia Midland Railway. - Richmond and Danville R. R. - Newport News and Mississippi Valley R. R. - Chicago and Evanston R. R. - Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West R. R. - Interstate Rapid Transit Co., Kansas City, Mo. - Kansas City Cable Railway, Kansas City, Mo. - Union Passenger Railroad Co., Richmond, Va. - Franklin Avenue Line, St. Louis, Mo. - West Nashville Railroad Depot, West Nashville, Tenn. - St. Johns and Halifax R. R. - Maryland Central R. R. - Cornwall and Lebanon R. R. Co. - - -EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. - - DePaw College, Greencastle, Ind. - Mississippi Industrial Institute and College, Columbus, Miss. - St. John’s College, Tremont, N. Y. - Las Vegas College, Las Vegas, New Mexico. - Loyola College, Collington, Md. - Woodstock College, Woodstock, Md. - Medical College, Nashville, Tenn. - Dayel College, Sparta, Tenn. - Dakota University, Mitchell, Dakota. - Public School, Richfield Springs, N. Y. - Public School, Greenville, Ky. - Public School, McCook, Neb. - Public School, Dodge City, Kansas. - Public School, Marion, Ill. - Public School, Elizabeth, Pa. - Public School, Freeport, Ill. - Public School, Paw Paw, Ill. - Public School, Hutchinson, Minn. - Thirteenth District School, Nashville, Tenn. - Tenth District School, Nashville, Tenn. - Thirteenth Ward Grammar School, Nashville, Tenn. - Fogg High School, Nashville, Tenn. - Caldwell High School, Nashville, Tenn. - Tampa High School, Tampa, Fla. - Public School, Forward Township, Allegheny Co., Pa. - Tarbox School, Nashville, Tenn. - Searight School, Nashville, Tenn. - Niagara Falls Museum, Niag. Falls, N. Y. - - -Hotels and State and County Buildings. - - Florida State Capitol, Tallahassee, Fla. - Washtenaw County Jail, Ann Arbor, Mich. - Bristol County House of Correction, New Bedford, Mass. - Government Penitentiary, Kingston, Ont. - Main Street Central Police Station, Charleston, S. C. - United States Soldiers’ Home, Leavenworth, Kansas. - Wm. Houston Home, Charleston, S. C. - Deaf and Dumb Institute, Jacksonville, Ill. - Insane Asylum, Fort Steilacoom, Wash. Terr. - United States Marine Barracks, Pensacola, Fla. - Colorado State Insane Asylum, Pueblo, Col. - Asylum for Feeble Minded, Beatrice, Neb. - Tenn. Insane Asylum, Nashville, Tenn. - County Asylum, Sparta, Tenn. - City Hospital, Charleston, S. C. - Towers of Minneapolis Exhibition Building, Minneapolis, Minn. - Horticultural Hall, World’s Exposition, New Orleans, La. - Plymount County Agricultural Society Building, Brockton, Mass. - Public Library, Coldwater, Mich. - Fair Association Buildings, St. Louis, Mo. - Grand Army of the Republic Hall, Janesville, Iowa. - Caledonian Rink, Ottawa, Canada. - Park Building, West Nashville, Tenn. - Concordia Association Building, Little Rock, Ark. - U. S. Commissioners’ Building, Salt Lake City, Utah. - Board of Trade Bldg., Little Rock, Ark. - Exchange Building, West Nashville, Tenn. - Lyons Water Works Buildings, Lyons, N. Y. - Water Works Buildings, Battle Creek, Mich. - City Water Works Buildings, Ottawa, Canada. - Barclay St. Ferry House, New York City. - Oakland Mills, Taunton, Mass. - I. O. O. F. Building, Port Clinton, Ohio. - I. O. O. F. Building, Savannah, Ga. - Masonic Temple, Savannah, Ga. - Masonic Temple, Daytona, Fla. - Union County Court House, Union, S. C. - Ford County Court House, Dodge City, Kansas. - Ontonogan County Building, Houghton, Mich. - Court House, Jonesborough, Ark. - Hamilton County Court House, Texas. - Menard County Court House, Texas. - H. I. Kimball Hotel, Atlanta, Ga. - Burlington Hotel, Burlington, Vermont. - Fayetteville Hotel, Fayetteville, N. C. - Mitchell Hotel, Thomasville, Ga. - Arlington Hotel, Augusta, Ga. - Summerville Hotel, Augusta, Ga. - Cottage Hotel, Nunda, N. Y. - City Hotel, Beatrice, Neb. - Opera House, Junction City, Kansas. - Grand Opera House, St. Louis, Mo. - Overland Casino, Nashville, Tenn. - Opera House, Tavares, Fla. - North River Steamboat Co., Haverstraw, N. Y. - New Central Station, Charleston, S. C. - Lower Station House Stables, Charleston, S. C. - Mechanics’ Union Hall, No. 1, Charleston, S. C. - Oneida County Asylum, Rome, N. Y. - Wheeler Elevator, Buffalo, N. Y. - Ontario Elevator, Buffalo, N. Y. - A. W. Stevens & Son, Auburn, N. Y. - City Buildings, Taunton, Mass. - I. O. U. W. Hall, New Harmony, Ind. - Opera House, New Harmony, Ind. - - - - -INSIDE CONSTRUCTION. - - -By this we do not mean the arrangement or size of rooms, they may be -large or very small, and in either instance lack the conveniences which -may always be provided for by good construction. Even a small house -can have transoms over all the doors which open into a hall, proper -ventilating flues for all rooms, and a kitchen that will be comfortable -in all seasons, (see articles under the head of “Ventilation” and “The -Kitchen.”) These are essential; all dwellings, large or small, should -have them. The windows and doors should be arranged to suit the furniture -to be used. You have doubtless seen rooms with windows on two sides, a -door and fire-place on the other. This arrangement makes it impossible -for the room to contain an ordinary size bedstead, without placing it -before a window or some other opening. Study these things when getting up -plans for your house. - -The dining room should be light and roomy, fronting the East if -possible, as the morning sun is always desirable, and adds much to the -cheerfulness of the family. The kitchen should not connect directly with -the dining-room. Construct a passage-way, well ventilated, between the -two rooms; this will prevent unsavory odors entering the dining-room. The -space at each end of the passage can be utilized for the kitchen closets. -Arrange your rooms so that you will not be compelled to pass through one -room to get to another. Do not disfigure the walls by driving nails or -hooks into the plastering for the purpose of hanging pictures, but fasten -a neat gilt moulding to the side walls all around the room, about one -foot from the ceiling. The moulding should be about one and one-half or -two inches wide, with a groove on its upper side. Hooks shaped as an S -can be placed at any point on this moulding, and the pictures are to be -hung to these hooks. This arrangement is somewhat expensive, but it is -the only proper way in which pictures can be hung. - -Closets.—No house is complete without ample closets. Every lady knows -that clothing and wraps cannot be stored away in drawers, and look well -when wanted for use. As closets are expensive we suggest for small -houses, that a room be constructed from four to six feet wide, and from -ten to fifteen feet long, with a window at one end. Make shelves on one -side, and place suitable clothes hooks on the other. In such a room the -entire wardrobe and family linen can be properly stored. If you desire -a moth-proof room, the ceiling, walls and shelves should be made of -red cedar. We suggest this clothes room because of its cheapness. Each -bedroom of large houses should be provided with a clothes closet, which -should be lined with red cedar for the reasons above stated. - -Don’t forget to have windows and all outside doors fitted up with light -sash and frames covered with woven wire cloth. This material is very -cheap, and can be purchased at any house-furnishing goods store. Its -use prevents mosquitoes and flies from entering the house. Freedom from -these summer pests will amply repay you for the expense. During the late -fall, winter and spring months, the sash and frames can be removed; they -should be stored in some perfectly dry place, such as a garret, never -in a cellar. Speaking of pests reminds us of another kind that breed in -cracks and crevices found in most kitchens, which might lead a thoughtful -man to suppose that the builder, in his kindness of heart, provided these -little hiding places for just such creatures. If you don’t want them, see -that there are no cracks left between the wood-work and plastering, or in -any part of the floor or walls of the kitchen. Fill with cement (Plaster -of Paris is good) all cracks caused by shrinkage of wood-work after the -walls are completed and are thoroughly dry. - - - - -SHEET METAL WORK FOR PUBLIC AND PRIVATE BUILDINGS. - - -GUTTERS, VALLEYS AND DOWN PIPES. - -These things are very closely related to the roof, and like it should be -of the best material. - -A tin gutter hung at the eaves has the advantage of being cheap; if made -of good material and put up with good fastenings is durable, and suitable -for cheap houses and some portions of expensive ones. - -In all cases where the fastenings are to hang from the roof, the gutter -should be put up before the roof covering is put on, so the fastenings -can be secured to the roof boards instead of on top of the tin, slate or -wood shingles. If the fastenings are nailed on top of the roof covering, -the nails soon become loose, and the gutter sags. The tinsmith will -charge no more for doing his work before the roofers commence, but it -may delay you a day. Paint the gutter inside as well as out, and see -that it has sufficient fall to clear itself of water. If you prefer the -gutter on the roof near the eaves, let the sheets of which it is made -be of sufficient width to extend far enough up under the roof covering -to prevent water (when the gutter is full) from overflowing at the back -instead of over at the front; this is a common error. In every instance -let this top gutter be outside the wall line, so in case of leakage the -“drip” is outside the walls. Gutters of this kind, and all gutters that -are soldered and firmly fastened to roof boards (not hanging gutters), -are liable to crack by expansion and contraction of the metal; we -therefore say, never put a gutter inside the wall lines if they can be -put outside. Valleys formed by the joining of two roofs at an angle are -usually steep enough to allow the metal sheets to lap on each other and -shed water without soldering. Such sheets are usually made twenty-eight -inches long. Their shortness prevents cracking from expansion and -contraction even if nailed to roof boards. Remember that all trash or -dirt that settles on the roof eventually finds its way into the valleys, -gutters and down pipes, and in a manner scours their surface; for this -reason they receive several fold more wear than the same amount of -exposed surface of the roof, consequently, should be of better material. -Few people are aware of the amount of dirt and sand which is carried by -the wind and deposited on their house-tops; for this reason, if the water -is used for drinking or cooking purposes, the first water that flows -from the roof during a rain storm should not be allowed to flow into the -cistern. - -It is always best to have good sized down pipes. As a rule, for down -pipes from hanging gutters, let the circumference of the pipe equal the -girt of the gutter, and the gutter should be large enough to convey -the water which falls on the roof during the heaviest storms. Use only -curved elbows where a turn in the pipe is to be made, and at the foot -or discharge end. Curved elbows are now made by machinery; they are -stronger, more durable and cost no more than the common hand-made acute -kind. - -We have spoken of good material; but what is good material when Tin -Plate is spoken of? The quality of Tin Plate depends on its toughness, -and the weight of Tin or Terne coating on its surface. The first is -easily determined by bending back and forth with the hand, the latter is -not, unless handled by an expert. The following test will determine the -difference, provided you have different qualities. If the qualities are -the same, or nearly so, the difference will not be distinguishable. - -Take two pieces of different quality of Tin or Terne plates, say two -inches square, grease one side with any kind of animal fat; then with a -pair of plyers, hold them separately over a gas or candle jet with one -corner obliquely downward, and the amount of fusible metal which flows -from them will determine the difference between good and common. - - - - -TESTIMONIALS. - - - ST. LOUIS, MO., April 26th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have used your Walter’s Metal Shingles on the - most prominent buildings of our city, all of which have given - universal satisfaction both in appearance and durability. As - for us, we can say we give them the preference above all others - knowing that when once up there is none its equal. - - Yours truly, - - MESKER BROS. - - * * * * * - - AUGUSTA, GA., April 30th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I have in the past six years used and carefully - compared all the leading makes of Patent Metallic Shingles, - and I unhesitatingly pronounce your Walter’s Patent the best - shingle on the market. They are simple, and easy to put on, - and for a handsome, light and durable roof they are without a - parallel. I have used them on many public as well as private - buildings in this city, and they have in all instances given - the highest possible satisfaction, which _has won me the esteem - and confidence of the public_. - - Yours truly, - - DAVID SLUSKY. - - * * * * * - - LAS VEGAS COLLEGE, LAS VEGAS, N. M., April 29th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I am glad to inform you that we are very well - satisfied with the Walter’s Metal Shingles with which the new - stone addition of our college is covered. It is about three - years since the roof was laid, and your shingles are keeping - yet a very neat and nice appearance, defying bravely the eating - and inclemency of the weather. - - Yours truly, - - C. M. CAPILUPI, _S. J._ - - * * * * * - - OFFICE OF SUPERINTENDENT, DEPAW UNIVERSITY, - GREEN CASTLE, IND., April 30th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We beg to say that your Walter’s Shingles with which - our college buildings are covered are very satisfactory. - - E. T. CHAFFEE, Sup’t. - - * * * * * - - COLORADO STATE INSANE ASYLUM, PUEBLO, COL., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I wish to say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic - Shingles, with which our buildings are covered, we believe to - be superior to anything heretofore introduced in the West in - that line. - - Yours truly, - - P. R. THOMBS, Sup’t. - - * * * * * - - DAYTONA, FLA., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the First - Congregational Church at this place. As to durability, the roof - has been on now about three years, and seems as good as the - day it was put on. Its appearance is beautiful, and its rain - shedding qualities are perfect. We like the roof first rate, - and can conscientiously recommend them to others. - - Yours very truly, - - CHAS. M. BINGHAM, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - ITHACA, N. Y., April 28th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have put the Walter’s Metallic Shingles upon many - buildings in Ithaca, and in each instance our customers have - been perfectly satisfied. In our opinion they are the most - durable roof we have handled. The writer has his house covered - with the Galvanized Tin Shingles, and believes he has the most - durable roof in Ithaca, because they need no painting, or care - of any kind whatever. While costing more at the start, in the - end the matter of economy is with the Walter’s Shingles. - - Yours truly, - - C. J. RUMSEY & CO. - - * * * * * - - TAUNTON, MASS., April 25th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We have used in less than two years about 800 - squares of your Metallic Shingles, and they have given the best - of satisfaction in every case, and in our opinion are far ahead - in durability and appearance of either slate or wooden shingles. - - Yours truly, - - N. CRAPO & BRO. - - * * * * * - - WINTHROP ST. BAPTIST CHURCH, TAUNTON, MASS., May 5th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—We are in every way fully satisfied with the - Walter’s Metal Shingles which you put on the roof of our church - two years ago. It would be difficult to desire a superior - roofing. - - Yours very truly, - - J. K. WILSON, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - CENTENARIAN M. E. CHURCH, BEATRICE, NEB., May 2d, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I consider the Walter’s Metal Shingle an improvement - over anything of the past; superior to slate in appearance; of - less weight and cost, and just as durable. When properly put in - place it can but give the best of satisfaction. Can heartily - recommend it. - - Respectfully, - - A. C. CALKINS, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - MATTEAWAN, N. Y., April 25th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I take great pleasure in giving my unprejudiced - opinion of Walter’s Metallic Shingles. I have been using them - for the last three years, and have never had any fault found - with them of all the roofs that I have put on, and I have had - good practical tinners proclaim to me that they consider it - the best tin roofing they have ever seen. It is _the_ roof for - me when I am building myself. Any person adopting this roof, - by giving it a coat of metallic paint every five years, I will - warrant them to have a tight roof for two generations. - - Yours truly, - - SAM’L McKEE. - - * * * * * - - MINNEAPOLIS, MINN., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I have put on in the Northwest large amounts of your - Metallic Shingles for others, and also covered my own residence - some five years ago, and can heartily recommend your goods to - any one desiring a substantial and absolutely tight roof of - fine appearance, which gives a roof much better than slate and - a lower price. - - Most respectfully yours, - - M. H. CRITTENDEN. - - * * * * * - - ANN ARBOR, MICH., May 4th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—My roof was the first one in this city on which - your tin shingles were used, and they have given entire - satisfaction. I would not exchange it for any other roof that I - know of. - - Yours truly, - - GEO. W. MOORE. - - * * * * * - - MILFORD, DELAWARE, May 10th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Would say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic - Shingles, put on the Electric Light Station in this town, by W. - P. Cullen, are giving entire satisfaction, making a handsome - and durable roof, much preferable in our judgment to the - regular tin roofs usually put on such buildings. - - Very truly yours, - - W. T. JOHNSON. - - * * * * * - - NEW MILFORD, DEL., May 15th, 1888. - - Perhaps it may be of interest to you to know my views of the - Tin Shingle Roofing purchased of W. P. Cullen, of Milford, - Del. I can recommend in the highest degree their use, as - they possess many advantages over any other material used - for that purpose. They require no skilled labor, and are as - durable as any tin roof can possibly be. I have watched it - during every rainstorm since it was laid, and not one drop - has passed through it to my gratification, and to the credit - of the inventor. I invite the inspection of any one who may - contemplate putting on a roof upon any building. - - Respectfully, - - P. H. STORM. - - * * * * * - - BROCKTON, MASS., April 27th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Two years ago the Brockton Agricultural Society - covered the roof of their main building with your tin shingles, - and I am pleased to inform you that they have given perfect - satisfaction. - - Yours truly, - - H. W. ROBINSON, President. - - * * * * * - - CHURCH OF THE HOLY APOSTLES, ST. CLAIR, PA., - April 25th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles have been - the covering to the Rectory of this church since September, - 1885. They were put on by novices under disadvantageous - circumstances, and have withstood every test that a - Pennsylvania mountainous district changeable weather could - give. I talk tin shingles to all my friends. - - Yours truly, - - CHAS. A. MARKS, Rector. - - * * * * * - - NATCHEZ, MISS., February 16th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I have been in the tin roofing business for the past - 20 years, and I believe that the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles - make the best tin roofing of any of the other patents that - are now on the market. I have put on hundreds of squares of - them, and they have given me and the property owners entire - satisfaction. I will further say that each box of shingles - I have bought from them has covered one hundred square feet - of roof, which will be understood by tinners to be a great - satisfaction in ordering roofing, as the rule is that patent - roofing falls short after being laid. I have often been asked - by different manufacturing companies for my opinion of the - roofing that they manufacture, but this is the first time that - I have ever given my opinion, and I would not give my opinion - now if the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles did not deserve it. - - I am, yours truly, - - P. W. MULVIHILL. - - * * * * * - - BATON ROUGE, LA., February 24th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—I beg to say that I have used the Walter’s Patent - Tin Shingles for some time, and they have given satisfaction. - I think they make the best roofing that can be put on for the - money. - - Yours truly, - - M. J. WILLIAMS. - - * * * * * - - MILFORD, DEL., May 4th, 1888. - - Dear Sirs:—This is to say that I have used several thousand - shingles of Walter’s Patent on our roof at the Phosphate - Factory, put on by W. P. Cullen, and up to this time not a - single drop of water or a weight of snow has drifted through - it, and if kept properly painted, I believe the roof will last - as long as any person could wish it to. - - W. I. SIMPSON. - - * * * * * - - CANAJOHARIE, N. Y., May 10th, 1888. - - Gentlemen:—Having Walter’s Metal Shingles on two of my - buildings, put on by F. H. Hodge, the new _Courier_ building - being sided with them, I feel that I am competent to speak of - the merits of the shingles. My experience has been entirely - satisfactory, and I regard the Metallic Shingles as the best - roofing and siding extant. If I were to build a hundred houses, - and it were possible to use these shingles, I would not - hesitate one moment, as I regard them as cheaper and better - than any other covering in the market. - - Yours, &c., - - WILLET F. COOK. - - * * * * * - - HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY, - FORT STEILACOOM, W. T., May 2d, 1888. - - Dear Sirs:—This institution has passed two winters under cover - of Walter’s Metal Shingles. Our Winters are very wet, rain - falling most of the time, but there has been no leak. The - shingles are, therefore, entirely satisfactory. - - Yours very truly, - - JOHN W. WAUGHOP, M. D. - Sup’t Hospital Insane, W. T. - - * * * * * - - WOODSTOCK COLLEGE, HOWARD CO., MD., December 8th, 1886. - - Gentlemen:—It affords me much pleasure to indorse favorably - the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles. I have used them on our - church buildings in Trinidad, Colo., Albuquerque, N. M., and - Woodstock, Md. In the first named place they have been in use - over two years, and have withstood, without detriment, the very - high winds and occasional driving storms of rain and snow for - which that State is so remarkable. In the other places they are - also giving satisfaction in every respect. - - I consider a roof of this material far superior to the - ordinary tin or iron, both in beauty of design and solidity of - construction, and see no reason why it should not supersede - slate, as it is far less costly, requires a lighter frame, is - just as much fire or storm-proof, and equally durable if kept - painted. - - Hoping your goods may elicit the patronage they justly deserve, - I beg to remain, gentlemen, - - Yours very truly, - - EDWARD BARRY, _S. J._ - - * * * * * - - AUBURN, N. Y., November 26th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—Your esteemed favor of the 16th duly to hand; by - reason of Mr. Stevens’ absence from town, has not had earlier - reply. We take great pleasure in speaking a good word for the - new roofing we purchased of your house; we find it all it - was recommended to be. The condition in which it came to us - rendered it very easy to place upon the roof. It makes a tight - and substantial roof, one which we believe will be as durable - as anything we have ever seen. We remain, with respect, - - Yours very truly, - - A. W. STEVENS & SON. - - * * * * * - - PENFIELD CENTER, N. Y., October 17th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—I have used about sixty squares of your metal - shingles this year, and can say they excel any roof I - have used. They are light, tight and cannot help being a - life-lasting roof, if they are taken care of. - - Yours truly, - - G. H. BACON. - - * * * * * - - SHERMAN, TEXAS, October 28th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—I have been contracting and building fifty years, - 34 years in North Texas. I recommend your metal roofing as the - best I have ever used, and that it gives perfect satisfaction, - and if painted every five years it will last a century. - - Yours truly, - - GEO. MELTON, - Architect and Builder. - - * * * * * - - COLLEGE OF THE HOLY CROSS, WORCESTER, MASS. - - Mr. W. F. WALLACE, Sec’y and Treas’r, Nat. Sheet Metal Roofing - Co. - - Dear Sir:—Having used your Galvanized Tin Shingles largely in - Maryland, Connecticut and here, and recommended their use in - other sections, I have no hesitation in stating that everywhere - the results have been completely satisfactory. I shall continue - to use the roofing in preference to any that I know. - - Yours respectfully, - - T. W. HAYES, _S. J._ - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., November 4th, 1889. - - Dear Sirs:—Nearly two years ago I had the steeples of my - church covered with your Galvanized Metal Shingles. I have now - no hesitation in stating that in my judgment it is the best - roofing material in the market. It is very ornamental, and time - seems to have no effect on it, as it still retains the same - color. So pleased were the citizens of this place with the work - done on my church, that many of them are now using the same - material in roofing their houses. - - A. MURPHY, Pastor. - - * * * * * - - WEBSTER, N. Y., October 17th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—I have used your patent shingles on my grist mill - and think there is nothing better for fire, wind or weather. - They are all right. - - Yours truly, - - B. SPERRY. - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., December 2d, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Metallic Shingles put on the roof of - our new church in this city, about four months ago, by Mr. - James Conley, are in every way satisfactory to our people, and - the roof is admired by all who see it. I take great pleasure in - recommending your shingles to the public as the best material - for roofing that I have seen. - - E. W. BRUCE, - Pastor and Chairman of Building Com. - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., November 5th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the steeples - of the Welsh Congregational Church, at this place, last summer, - and it seems as good as the day it was put on. Its appearance - is beautiful and its rain-shedding qualities are perfect. We - like the steeple first rate and can conscientiously recommend - them to others. They need no painting or care of any kind - whatever. These were put on by Mr. James Conley, of Rome, N. Y. - - Yours truly, - - D. E. PRICHARD, Pastor. - - JAMES THOMAS, Sec’y. - - * * * * * - - ROME, N. Y., December 6th, 1889. - - Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Metallic Shingles were first brought - to my notice by Mr. James Conley, of this city, some two years - ago, and I made a personal examination and test of same, and - have since specified and had them used in preference on several - buildings. They make a light, handsome and durable roof, and I - have yet to hear the first complaint. - - Respectfully, - - WM. H. DAVIES, Architect. - - * * * * * - - COUNCIL GROVE, KANSAS, November 5th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gents:—Yours of the 25th at hand regarding the Walter’s - Shingles. I purchased in the spring the Walter’s Shingles and - used them on my dwelling house. I must say they make the best - looking roof and the tightest roof I ever saw, and they are - easily laid. I am much pleased with them and can recommend them - very highly. - - Yours truly, - - THOS. J. HIGGINS, - Breeder of Hereford Cattle. - - * * * * * - - JUNCTION CITY, KANSAS, October 29th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gentlemen:—Replying to yours, 25th inst., we have used the - Walter’s Metallic Shingles on the large three-story building - we occupy. This roof was put on nearly two years ago: the roof - has not shown any defects up to this time, and if kept properly - painted will last many years. - - Very respectfully yours, - - ZIEGLER HARDWARE CO. - - * * * * * - - KANSAS CITY, October 26th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Dear Sirs:—In reply to yours I have no hesitation in - pronouncing the Walter’s Metallic Shingles a good roof. It has - been on my two-story frame house two years, and I have found it - to be perfectly tight, keeps clean (an advantage where cistern - water is used) and adds greatly to the appearance of the house. - - Yours truly, - - M. J. REILLY, - 1308 Park Avenue. - - * * * * * - - WESTON, MO., October 31st, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gentlemen:—Walter’s Metallic Shingles bought of you last May - were put on our school-house, and I am glad to state that they - make a tight, handsome and substantial roof. Everybody is - pleased with it. I can recommend them to all who want a tight - and substantial roof. - - Yours truly, - - REV. CHAS. SCHAAF, - Pastor of Catholic Church. - - * * * * * - - HUTCHINSON, KANSAS, October 26th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Gents:—We have used almost all kinds of Metallic Shingles - manufactured, but find the Walter’s Shingle makes the best roof - of any we have found. They make a tight, ornamental and durable - roof, and have never given us a particle of trouble, and we - are glad to recommend them to any one wanting a first-class - metallic roof. - - Respectfully, - - SWIFT, MANKOFF & CONGDON. - - * * * * * - - TRINIDAD, COLO., November 16th, 1889. - - Messrs. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. - - Dear Sirs:—We have used the Walter’s Patent Shingles to the - satisfaction of all concerned on the following buildings: - Southern Hotel, South Side Public School, Jewish Synagogue and - several minor buildings. They undoubtedly make a good roof. - - Yours truly, - - SCHMIDT BROS. - - * * * * * - - Mr. JAMES CONLEY, _Agent_, Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles, Rome, - N. Y. - - Dear Sir:—I take pleasure in commending the Walter’s Tin - Shingles, as applied to my house by you. As you will remember, - the roof was not completed in all its details when the winter - set in last year, and, at my request, the scaffolding was left - on the different roofs, more for a test from banking of snow - and back-water, feeling assured that if the shingles survived - the test, I would never experience any trouble from that - source, in the future, when the scaffolding was removed. I was - more than satisfied with the test, as we experienced no trouble - from leakage or from any other source. Therefore, I take great - pleasure in recommending the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles - to whoever contemplates using a metallic shingle for their - buildings. - - I remain, yours truly, - - CHAS. WIGHAM, - House, 418 Floyd Ave., Rome, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -OUR SPECIALTIES. - -THE BEST OF THEIR KIND. - -=METAL SHINGLES=, under the Walter’s and Cooper’s Patents, made from Tin -Plates, Tin Plate Galvanized, Steel Plates and Copper, have no equal in -the world for roof covering. - -=CURVED ELBOWS.=—Fixed, adjustable and in sections. The most perfect -machine-made Elbow ever invented. Made from Tin Plate, Tin Plate -Re-tinned, and Tin Plate Galvanized. Perfect in form and fitting. The -best in the world. - -=CONDUCTOR PIPE.=—Crimp expanding. Will not burst by freezing. In -sections twenty-eight inches long, which interlock with each other. Two -sizes, three and four inches diameter. - -=WIRE NAILS.=—Made from Steel Wire. All sizes, both barbed and plain, in -kegs, at manufacturers’ prices. - -=DRY PAINT.= (=Devils’ Red.=)—The very best Oxide of Iron. This is NOT a -Ready-Mixed Paint. It is Iron Ore, burnt until all deleterious substances -are destroyed, then pulverized and bolted. In a word it is IRON RUST, it - - MIXES readily with Linseed Oil, - FLOWS freely under the brush, - ADHERES tenaciously wherever applied. - -Samples Mailed Free. - - WRITE FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE AND PRICES. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING COMPANY, - 510 to 520 EAST TWENTIETH STREET, - NEW YORK CITY. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: WIRE NAILS] - -STEEL WIRE NAILS - -AT MANUFACTURERS’ PRICES. - -All Kinds of Wire Nails, Plain or Barbed, - -FOR - -Tin and Iron Roofing, Tin and Wooden Shingles, Slate and Composition -Roofing, Carpenters and Box Makers, Trunk and Casket Makers, Builders and -Contractors. - - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - 510 TO 520 EAST 20TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: FRANK L. SMITH, Architect,] - -_22 SCHOOL STREET, (Room 10,) BOSTON, MASS._ - -=Plans for Specifications Prepared for Buildings of every description. -Low Cost Suburban Dwellings a Specialty.= - -_Distance is no obstacle to my serving parties in all parts of the -country. Correspondence Solicited._ - -PUBLISHER OF - -A COSY HOME: How It was Built. - -A DISCUSSION OF THE VARIOUS METHODS AND MATERIALS EMPLOYED IN ITS -CONSTRUCTION. - -The book contains ninety-six pages, and is handsomely printed on heavy, -tinted paper. Is illustrated by designs of ten low-cost houses; first -and second floor plans and front and side elevations of each design are -presented. - -It contains many valuable and practical suggestions for those who would -build economically, and who desire to obtain the greatest value for their -money. Most of the houses represented have been recently built in the -vicinity of Boston, and the estimated cost of executing each design is -based upon actual figures. - -If you are interested in house planning and building, it will pay you to -send for this book. Sent post-paid, on receipt of price, =25c.= - -HOMES OF TO-DAY, OR, Modern Examples of Moderate Cost Houses. - -Published in four parts, quarterly. First and second parts now ready. -Volume will contain 240 pages, quarto size, showing designs of buildings -to cost from $250 upwards. Over 200 illustrations, full set of framing -plans, model specification, colored frontispiece, and valuable -information for those about to build. Four parts, post-paid, as issued, -=$1.00=. Address, - -F. L. SMITH, Architect, 22 School St., Boston, Mass. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: BRUCE & COOK - -Nos. 248 & 250 PEARL ST - -186. 188. & 190. WATER ST. N.Y. - -For Extra Roofing specify KILLEY EXTRA or LPL EXTRA. - -Each Sheet stamped with Brand. - -For Best Roofing specify TREGONING OLD PROCESS. - -Each Sheet stamped with Brand. - -CORRUGATED LEADERS. IXL VENTILATORS. - -Eight Foot Seamless Eave Troughs and Gutters.] - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: =NEPONSET WATERPROOF PAPER.= - -(Patented Dec. 28, 1885.)] - -=No. 1 Neponset Rope Roofing.= - -For a first-class covering use our No. 1 and No. 2 NEPONSET ROPE ROOFING. -This will make a permanent covering at a low cost. - -=Black Neponset Building.= - -This is without exception the best building paper in the market. Cheaper -and better than tarred paper. Will save fuel. - - For Sale by all Dealers. - - Manufactured solely by - F. W. BIRD & SON, East Walpole, Mass. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: STEAM AND WARM AIR COMBINED] - -THE ECONOMY COMBINATION - -Steam and Warm Air Heater. - -=A Low Pressure Apparatus.= Radiates Steam Heat with from ½ to 3 pounds -pressure. =One fire generates both Warm Air and Steam, Increasing its -capacity 25 per cent. over any All-Steam Heater made.= The drafts are -automatically regulated by the steam pressure. - -_Our Systems of Warming Buildings with Steam Radiation and Warm Air -insure_ - -Perfect Ventilation, - -_And guarantee a uniform and healthful temperature throughout the house_. - -THE “ECONOMY” - -[Illustration: The Double Radiator Economy Warm-Air Furnace.] - -Warm-Air Furnaces - -Have a reputation that is neither excelled nor equalled for =Durability, -Power and Economy=, and are guaranteed in every respect. - -SEND FOR CATALOGUE - -giving full particulars, descriptions and illustrations of 31 different -styles and sizes of Heaters. - -Manufactured solely by the - - J. F. PEASE FURNACE CO. - SYRACUSE, N. Y., TORONTO, ONT., - 75 UNION STREET, BOSTON, - 177 EAST RANDOLPH STREET, CHICAGO. - - EARL B. CHACE & CO. - GENERAL N. Y. MANAGERS, - _206 Water St., New York_. - -Estimates for Warming Buildings Promptly Furnished. - - * * * * * - -_PAINT! PAINT!! PAINT!!!_ - -[Illustration] - -YOUR HOUSE-TOPS, BARNS, and OUTHOUSES, - -Paint! Paint!! Paint!!! - -WITH - -=DEVILS’ RED= - -THE BEST OXIDE OF IRON, - - =GROUND= to an Impalpable Powder - =READY= to mix with Linseed Oil - =WITHOUT= any other ingredient. - -If you want the very best results from =OXIDE OF IRON, mix only with -Linseed Oil=. - -If you want a cheap, vile compound often sold for Paint, mix Oxide of -Iron, Benzine, and a “LEETLE” Oil. - -=DEVILS’ RED= IS NOT a Ready-Mixed Paint. It is Iron Ore burnt until all -deleterious substances are destroyed, then pulverized and bolted. - - In a word it is =Iron Rust=, it =MIXES= readily with Linseed Oil, - =FLOWS= freely under the brush, - =ADHERES= tenaciously wherever applied. - - =DEVILS’ RED= is For Sale to the Trade, - ONLY BY - THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. - 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City, - - In Packages of 25 lbs., 60c.; 50 lbs., $1.00; 100 lbs., $1.75. - - Special Prices by the Barrel. Samples Mailed Free. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS AND -THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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-} - -.x-ebookmaker img { - max-width: 100%; - width: auto; - height: auto; -} - -.x-ebookmaker .poetry { - display: block; - margin-left: 1.5em; -} - -.x-ebookmaker .blockquote { - margin: 1.5em 5%; -} - - /* ]]> */ </style> - </head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Practical hints to builders and those contemplating building, by National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Practical hints to builders and those contemplating building</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>Facts worth considering relating to foundation, cellar, kitchen, chimney, cistern, brick-work, mortar, heating, ventilation, the roof, and many items of interest to builders...</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: June 10, 2022 [eBook #68285]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING ***</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus01.jpg" width="500" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center larger"><span class="smcap u">Practical Hints to<br /> -Builders</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="smaller u">AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING.</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage"><b>Fourth Edition.</b> (145,000)</p> - -<p class="titlepage">Facts Worth Considering<br /> -<span class="smaller">RELATING TO</span><br /> -<i>Foundation, Cellar, Kitchen, Chimney, Cistern, Brick-work, Mortar,<br /> -Heating, Ventilation, The Roof, and many items<br /> -of interest to Builders.</i></p> - -<p class="titlepage"><i>Copyrighted 1890, by</i> <span class="smcap">The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage">The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.<br /> -<span class="smaller">SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF</span><br /> -<b>Walter’s Patent Standard, and Cooper’s Patent Queen Anne<br /> -Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates,</b><br /> -<span class="smcap">510 to 520 East Twentieth Street, New York City</span>.</p> - -<p class="titlepage">Press of W. J. Pell, 92 John Street, New York.<br /> -1890.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">INDEX.</h2> - -</div> - -<table class="thirds"> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Architect, The,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Architects and Builders,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Brick-work,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Building.—Selecting a Site,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Buildings covered with Metal Shingles,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Buildings.—Old Materials,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Building.—Our Specialties,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Buildings, Sheet Metal Work for,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Building Paper,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Colors,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, - <a href="#Page_66">66</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Chimneys,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Cellar, The,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Cistern, The,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Conductor or Leader Pipe, Cooper’s,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Construction, Inside,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Design for Cottages,</td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdr"><a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, - <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, - <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Deadening and Fire-Proofing Floors,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Elbows, Cooper’s Curved,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Floors, Fire-Proofing,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Finials and How to Set Them,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Foundation, The,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_6">6</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Guarantee, Our,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Gold Medal Award,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Heating,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Kitchen, The,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Metal Shingles, compared with Wood,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> - <span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Slate,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="nw"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> - <span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Ordinary Tin Roofing,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Samples of,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Queen Anne,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Directions for Laying,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> How Made,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Measure, Surface,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Mortar? What is Good,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Roof Paint,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> Valleys or Gutters,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, - <a href="#Page_85">85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Roof, The,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> Comparative Pitch of,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Roofing, Broad-Rib,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Ridge Coping,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Sheathing, The Best,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Testimonials,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Ventilation,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>What Our Goods Are,</td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdr"><a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, - <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Walter’s Patent and What It Is,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus02.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">Preface.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The object of this little book is to give to builders a few practical -hints that can be used in their endeavors to erect a home that -is proposed to be durable, comfortable and healthy. They are -susceptible of being improved to an extent that will meet the wishes -of the most extravagant builder, or simplified to suit purse and -requirements of a builder with moderate means.</p> - -<p>We have left out generalities, and offer the reader solid facts -that are valuable to every one engaged in the ever pleasant task of -constructing a home.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -<span class="smcap">510 to 520 East Twentieth St.</span>,<br /> -New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span></p> - -<h1>Practical Hints to Builders.</h1> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE ARCHITECT.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Shall we employ one? Yes, if the work is sufficiently important -to justify it, and it is a very modest house indeed that is not.</p> - -<p>As the professional architect is generally a graduate of one of -the building trades, and has gravitated to that position because of -his peculiar fitness for it, it stands to reason, some will think, that -from among the many builders one can be selected who is capable -of taking the contract and presiding as architect. To such persons -we would say: You are not familiar with the functions of an architect, -when considered separate from the builder. The architect can -save you money. He discovers your wants, your likes, and your -dislikes; he reduces them to a tangible form; he draws up the -specifications so minutely that every variety of material and labor is -distinctly set forth as to its quality and kind.</p> - -<p>When completed, plans and specifications are presented to a -builder for an estimate; he knows exactly what is expected of him. -There is no chance for controversy or quibble; all has been settled -by the owner through his architect. In consequence, if several contractors -estimate upon the building, it is known that their figures are -all upon the same basis.</p> - -<p>We will say in general he can save you from five to twenty per -cent. in cost; will give you better construction and proportions, and -add a value to your house, apart from its first cost, that if it does -not sell for more, it will sell more readily than if built without -his service.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">SELECTING A BUILDING SITE.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>There are but few persons who are in a position to locate their -proposed home just where they would most desire it. But, fortunately, -most any building site is capable of being made to look well, -it the style of architecture selected harmonizes with the surroundings.</p> - -<p>It is of the first importance that the location be a healthy one. -Better rent all your life than ignore that. Avoid the neighborhood -of swamps and stagnant water, or where the cellar, (if you have one) -to your house, from the nature of the location, will be damp. Large -bodies of water, or running water is never unhealthy; but on the -contrary, it is in many ways conducive to health. Some very uninviting, -rugged and neglected spots, can, with but little expense and -an appropriate building, be made exceedingly beautiful.</p> - -<p>One of the prettiest school-houses I ever saw was built on a lot -given by a farmer for a district school. It did look as if the piece -of ground was worthless for any purpose; it was rocky, overgrown -with briers and bushes, and a tiny stream ran across the lot, jumping -from rock to rock, alongside of which, on a level spot but little -larger than room for a building, a house with steep roof and turret -was built, and the adjacent hillside made a splendid study and playground -for the scholars. When completed the building and grounds -was a model of what a country school-house should be.</p> - -<p>While an elevation is at all times desirable, a hill is not. The -exposure to the storms in winter, and the tiresome walk in summer, -is to be avoided. A few native trees, if on the ground to furnish -shade, are desirable. The water supply, too, is to be considered. -Most architects say a Southern exposure is the best, but this depends -on your location. For Southern homes the East is preferable.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">FOUNDATION.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus03.jpg" width="200" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Just how deep to excavate to start the foundation -of a house depends on the climate and -soil. Always dig trenches below the frost line in -any soil. This is sufficient if the subsoil is solid; -if the subsoil is not solid, go deep enough to -reach solid earth.</p> - -<p>In saying this, we are supposing you -are not building in a swamp, where it is -often necessary to drive piles upon which -to start a solid foundation. Stone is generally -used for foundation walls where it is convenient, and it makes -the best. Hard pressed brick, laid with mortar composed of one -part of hydraulic lime and two parts sharp sand, makes a foundation -not inferior to stone for all practical purposes. By using the above -mortar, dampness will not ascend from the ground to injure the floor -joists.</p> - -<p>Mortar made from common lime or sand, though commonly -used, is objectionable for foundations, because dampness will ascend -even above the floor joists, if the floor is not several feet above the -ground. It is often the case that hydraulic lime cannot be conveniently -had. In that case a layer of slate or coarse paper, well saturated -with pitch, laid between the brick seams below the line of joists, -will answer the same purpose, and is less expensive.</p> - -<p>See that the space between the joists is filled with brick, flush -with the under-side of floor boards. This prevents Mr. Rat, or -other members of his interesting family, from sitting in these little -corners and gnawing into the room above, or climbing between the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span> -siding to the upper floors. If this little matter is attended to right, -neither rats or mice can enter the house, except through the doors. -To keep them from burrowing underneath the foundation walls, let -the thickness of one brick project outward at the bottom of the -foundation. On burrowing downward, a rat soon reaches this shelf, -and following it around till he arrives at the place he started from, -becomes disgusted, or is supposed to, as he is not seen about the -house again. It is always better to have the foundation broader at -the bottom than the thickness of wall intended to be used. This is -necessary in all brick houses, unless on a rock bottom.</p> - -<p>See that the space under the ground floor is left clear of rubbish -before the floor is laid, and grating built in the wall for ventilation. -This opening can be closed in winter to secure additional warmth. -The cellar is closely related to the foundation; we give some hints -on its construction on <a href="#Page_22">page 22</a>.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus04.jpg" width="700" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Fac-simile of Gold Medal awarded to <span class="smcap">Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles</span>. -These shingles have received twenty-eight other awards for merit in the -United States.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span></p> - -<p>The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each been -specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and the proportions -and details can be relied upon.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus05.jpg" width="500" height="525" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> I.—<i>Front Elevation</i>.</p> -</div> - -<p class="center">TEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $5,000 to $6,000.</p> - -<p>Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 Galvanized Tin Shingles; porches with -same; tower with 7 × 10, same quality; use attic vents on main roof, and No. 1 -Six-foot Finial on apex of tower.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus06.jpg" width="500" height="700" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Second Floor.</i></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> I.—(<i>Elevation, <a href="#Page_8">page 8</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">COLORS.—For Exterior and Interior.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>As your house nears completion, it is well to decide upon colors. -That is a distinctive feature which is to give tone and beauty, and -make your house in some respects different from all others. The -question of painting is often a mere matter of preserving the structure, -and not a question of beauty or harmony of colors, or what -would be best suited to the surroundings; it is too often the case -that but little regard is paid to those nice perceptions that make one -man’s work many times more valuable than another. Strong contrasts -of color should be avoided. Light tints are preferable to -strong colors. Think of a house painted black, red, yellow, or green.</p> - -<p>Let the surroundings suggest what the exterior colors should be. -A house surrounded by trees and shrubbery will admit of white, with -white tinted trimmings, such as cornices, corner-boards, window and -door frames; but for half the year the green foliage of the trees is -turned to brown, which but partially relieves the glaring white. This -is why that color is not a favorite for exteriors. As a rule, select a -light color for the body of the house, and darken that for the -trimmings.</p> - -<p>For interior wood-work select light wood colors; let none be -darker than walnut. Oak, chestnut, ash, white walnut, maple and -cherry make a beautiful finish by simply oiling, and varnishing if a -gloss is preferred. Very light shades of ochre make beautiful ceilings -which can be ornamented with suitable designs, using darker -but delicate shades of other light colors. Here is where the taste -and skill of the painter comes in, and unless you are an adept, don’t -fail to consult an experienced decorator for your inside walls.</p> - -<p>For houses of moderate cost we think nothing is equal to solid -colors for inside walls. Let the colors be light and cheerful, and -the rooms of different shades. (<a href="#Page_48">See page 48</a>).</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus07.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>If you are interested in <i>Roofing</i>, send -for our Price List and Discount Sheet, -which is special to the trade. We are -pioneers in the introduction of practical -metal shingles, and no imitator has yet -produced their equal. Our goods are -largely used throughout the United -States and Canadas; are used by the -Government and Railroads; approved -by the Fire Insurance Companies, and -many leading Architects and Builders. -They are lighter than slate, and will last -longer without repairs; and the low rate -of insurance on our roofing will, in a -short time, more than balance the difference -in price where wood shingles -are cheaper.</p> - -<p>As seen by the cut, our shingles are the -same to-day as when first introduced. -Remember, no cleats or springs are necessary -in using our shingles. The lock -is simple and perfect, with corrugations -across the top, and bracing corrugations -across the exposed end of the shingles, -which stiffen and hold the shingles -firmly to the underlying courses. They -are easily applied, and any one who can -lay a wood shingle can lay these. We -furnish them in four sizes, made from charcoal -roofing tin, painted both sides and unpainted, -galvanized tin plate, which is superior -to galvanized iron, cold rolled copper, -and steel plates. We keep on hand a full -line of roofing sundries.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/illus08.jpg" width="400" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Fac-simile of beginning of first two courses.</p> -</div> - -<p>Our Shingles received the highest and only -award for metal shingles at the American -Institute, held in this city, October, 1886, -and New Orleans Exposition, 1885.</p> - -<p class="titlepage">WHOLESALE AGENTS.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>RICHARD KNISELY & SON, 184 -South Jefferson St., Chicago, Ills.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>W. W. MONTAGUE & CO., San -Francisco, Cal., Pacific Coast.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>J. J. WALTERS, Denver, Col.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>PHILLIPS & BUTTORFF MFG. -Co., Nashville, Tenn.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>CANADA GALVANIZING AND -STEEL ROOFING CO., Montreal, -Canada.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>MACHWIRTH BROS., Buffalo, N.Y.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>JEROME TWICHELL & CO., -Kansas City, Mo.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><i>F. H. LAWSON & CO., Cincinnati, -Ohio.</i></p> - -<p class="center clearboth">The National Sheet Metal Roofing Company,<br /> -<span class="smcap">510, 512, 514, 516, 518, 520 East 20th St., New York, U. S. A.</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus09.jpg" width="700" height="85" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus10.jpg" width="700" height="375" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> C.—<i>Front and Side Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $1,800 to $2,000.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">ROOF VALLEYS OR GUTTERS.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>It is generally known to builders and roofers that the greatest -amount of wear upon all kinds of roofs is in the valleys or gutters. -Therefore, that part of the roof, whether covered with slate, tin or -wood shingles, should be of the best material, and free from the -annoying possibility of cracking.</p> - -<p>This trouble is always caused by expansion and contraction of -the metal. The usual method is to make the valley of the desired -length, and, after shaping to the roof-boards, to nail each side firmly. -The result is, with the summer heat, a buckle is often formed at -some point between the two ends. In cold weather the buckle draws -out, and in course of time, if the joints in the middle do not give -way, a leak will appear, caused by the metal cracking. This will -not occur with our roof valleys, because we amply provide for the -expansion and contraction of the same. We particularly call the -attention of dealers in building material to our Queen Anne Valley. -It is salable, durable and cheap, always ready to apply; can be used -by any workman capable of laying slate, tin or wood shingles. (<a href="#Page_23">See -page 23</a>).</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus11.jpg" width="700" height="525" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i> <span class="spacer"><i>Second Floor.</i></span></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> C.—(<i>Elevations, <a href="#Page_12">page 12</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus12.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak">WHAT IS GOOD MORTAR?</h2> - -</div> - -<p>To a casual observer mortar is mud, but to a builder who understands -the chemistry of mortar it is a compound of water, lime and -sand, and when properly prepared forms an indestructible cement. -Fresh slacked lime, when brought in contact with clean, sharp sand, -adheres strongly to the surface of each grain, and forms the silicate -of lime.</p> - -<p>At the same time the drying mortar absorbs carbonic acid from -the atmosphere, forming with it lime-stone, which in time becomes a -rock in solidity. Now, all mortar is good or bad in proportion to -the purity of the ingredients and their relative affinity for each -other. The adhesive properties of mortar are nullified by loam or -clay in sand, or the stale condition of lime used.</p> - -<p>Loam mortar adheres freely to the surface of walls or ceilings. -So does mud if thrown against an upright surface; but water dissolves -it. It dries quickly, but does not harden with age. The foundation -of many frame, and the entire walls of many brick houses are built -with poor mortar, when the materials for good could be had at the -same price.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span></p> - -<p>Water, lime, sand and hair are the ingredients for plasterers’ -mortar in about the following proportions: One bushel unslacked -lime and four bushels sharp sand; (to this add twenty-four pounds -of dry hair for every one hundred yards, when used for “scratch” or -first coat,) and water sufficient to make it of proper consistency. After -being properly mixed, the mortar should stand from three to ten days -before using. However, the time it should stand depends upon the -susceptibility of the lime to slack. Some lime requires a month, -while good lime slacks immediately. Age improves mortar, provided -it is kept wet, and makes it work easier under the workman’s trowel. -As it is the keys formed by pressing the mortar against the lathing -on the ceiling that holds it to its place, there should be a relative -width of lath and key space to insure strength sufficient to prevent -its falling. Ignorance of this, and poor mortar, is the cause of falling -ceilings. Lath one inch wide, 7/16 inches thick, placed 7/16 inches apart -will insure good strong work.</p> - -<p>The second coat needs but a very small quantity of hair. Fifty -bushels sand, and twelve and one-half bushels unslacked lime, will -make mortar enough to cover one hundred square yards. If mortar -freezes before it is dry it loses its cementing properties and becomes -in common phase rotten, but if the sand used is clean, and it remains -frozen without thawing until it is dry, it is not injured. The -best way to treat a house in which the plastering is not dry, and cannot -be kept from freezing before it dries, is to throw the house open, -and let it freeze for eight or ten days, or until the plastering freezes dry.</p> - -<p>Cisterns should be plastered inside with mortar made of equal -parts of hydraulic lime and clean sand. For brick work above foundations -use one part unslacked lime to four parts sand.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right">“THE INDEPENDENT,” <span class="smcap">251 Broadway, New York</span>, October 28th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—The shingles from your respected concern used on my new -house look splendidly, and give entire satisfaction. They are far better than -any metal shingles I have previously used on other buildings, which I have -had torn off and thrown away as worthless. At times we were flooded by -the water under their (want of) protection, and we could not stop the leaks. -Noah in the ark I am sure was, fortunately, not troubled with leaks such as -we endured for years; if he had been all would have been drowned. Now, -under your protection, we are all right and still alive.</p> - -<p class="center">Faithfully,</p> - -<p class="right">HENRY C. BOWEN,<br /> -<span class="smcap">Chandler</span>.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">TO ARCHITECTS AND BUILDERS.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>There is no detail of house building more important than the -roof. Upon it depends to a great degree the durability and preservation -of the whole structure. The number of good houses with mottled -ceilings and cracked plastering, to be seen all over the country, -are reminders of the necessity of securing the best material and -faultless construction for this important part of your dwelling.</p> - -<p>The advantages we claim for our Tin Shingle, over the ordinary -mode of applying sheet metal for roofing purposes, consists in its -<b>Superior Strength, Freedom from Wrinkles and Cracking</b>, -(which cannot at all times be prevented where sheet metal is put on -in continuous sheets); and in being the <b>Most Ornamental and -Durable</b> of all sheet metal roof coverings. Now, in answer to this -last assertion you may say, How can this be? Is not the same -quality of tin as durable when applied in one form as another? -We answer, By no means. The writer—and we presume the reader—has -seen tin roofs worked, and walked over in the necessary finishing -up, to such an extent as to seriously damage the roof. The Tin -Roofers’ mallets, seamers, tongs, and sliding over the roof, do more -real damage to the surface of tin plate than several years’ wear. We -entirely overcome this difficulty, as no part of the exposed surface of -our Tin Shingles are struck with a mallet or hammer in applying -them. Again, where metal plates are put together in continuous -sheets, moisture, which condenses underneath for want of ventilation, -settles in the cross-seams and causes decay, and the ordinary metal -roof when removed invariably shows this to be the case, while the -other part of the plate shows no perceptible wear. Our form of -metal roofing has no cross-seams, and has sufficient ventilation to -prevent the condensation of moisture underneath, making it by many -years the most durable form of metal roofing ever offered to the -American people.</p> - -<p>Our object is to furnish the building public with a better form -of roofing material, attractive in appearance, without the objections -of the heavy slate, the clumsy shingle, or the plain ribbed metal roof; -and at a price that claims the attention of Architects and Builders of -the whole country.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -<span class="smcap">510 to 520 East Twentieth St.</span>,<br /> -New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CHIMNEYS.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus13.jpg" width="175" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>We will not moralize on the evils of -smoky chimneys, but just tell you in plain -language how to construct them so they will -not smoke. Make the throat of the fire-place -not more than half the size of the flue; -carefully smooth the inside of the flue, and -have it of the same area all the way to near -the top of the chimney, when it should be -gradually tapered inward to about half the -area of the flue. At the extreme top, the -cap stone should slant from the opening in all directions downward -at an angle of about twenty degrees. This will insure a good -draught and prevent the smoke blowing downward. No two fire-places -should enter the same flue; neither should a stove-pipe enter -a flue unless the fire-place is closed. Each stove and fire-place -should have its own flue. The size necessary for a flue depends on -the fuel to be used.</p> - -<p>Soft or Bituminous coal requires a flue nearly double the size of -one where Anthracite is to be used; an open fire-place for wood, -larger flues than either. For instance, an 8 × 8 inch flue answers for -Anthracite, because it makes but little soot, while if Bituminous coal -is used, 8 × 12 is none too large.</p> - -<p>You will find in houses all over the country flues smaller than -the above, and a corresponding number of smoky chimneys, which it -is impossible to remedy without re-building from the bottom up.</p> - -<p>The carelessness displayed in chimney construction is astonishing. -As the work is hid from view on completion, be watchful during -the process of construction from the ground up. All chimneys -should, if possible, extend above the apex or comb of roof, and -should be built of good hard burnt brick, and no woodwork should -be allowed to enter within five inches of inside of flue, and not -within twelve inches anywhere near the fire-place.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus14.jpg" width="500" height="650" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> H.—<i>Front Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,500 to $4,000.</p> - -<p>Roof covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with Queen -Anne; second story, sides, with 7 × 10 Standard Tin Shingles; and porches with -Broad Rib Tin Roofing; use No. 2 Five-foot Finial on tower.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus15.jpg" width="700" height="625" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i> <span class="spacer"><i>Second Floor.</i></span></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> H.—(<i>Elevation, <a href="#Page_18">page 18</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>A retired plumber thus gives a point for the gratuitous relief of householders: -“Just before retiring at night pour into the clogged pipe enough liquid -soda lye to fill the ‘trap’ or bent part of the pipe. Be sure that no water runs -in it until the next morning. During the night the lye will convert all the offal -into soft soap, and the first current of water in the morning will wash it away -and clear the pipe clean as new.”</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE WALTER’S PATENT, AND WHAT IT IS.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Previous to the granting of a patent to John Walter, in 1882, there -were no tin shingles manufactured for the trade in the United States, -with the exception of those which covered more than two-thirds of -their surface to get one-third exposed to the weather; the same is -commonly done with wood shingles. This made them too expensive -for general use. The Walter’s patent made it practical to expose five-sixths -of the surface and only conceal one-sixth of the shingle. This -great saving at once reduced the cost of metal shingles over one-half, -and enabled the National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., which controls -this patent, to put on the market the best metal roofing in the world, -at prices that compete with ordinary wood shingles. (See “Comparative -Cost,” <a href="#Page_26">pages 26 and 27</a>.)</p> - -<p>How this was done is best expressed in the claim granted the -patentee, copied from the United States Official Gazette:</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>“A metal roofing plate having a gutter formed by corrugations at one side, -and a perforated flange at the side of the gutter, whereby it shall be -nailed to the roof of a house; a broad corrugation at the other side -adapted to form a seam with the adjoining edge of a corresponding -plate, substantially as shown and described.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus16.jpg" width="700" height="85" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The advantage of this lock is that it makes a water-tight seam -without soldering or hammering down. The plates are joined as -easy as crossing two sticks, with ample provision for expansion and -contraction. This lock is the perfection of simplicity; there is no -exposed seam where water is liable to lodge and cause rust; no cleats -are used, and no tin springs are necessary to hold the side edges of -connecting plates to prevent water seeping through.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">PAINTING SHEET-METAL ROOFS.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The subject of painting sheet-metal roofs is one of great importance, says -the <i>Builder, Decorator and Wood-Worker</i>, not only on account of the protection -afforded, but because the material, when properly colored, can be made pleasant -to the eye when placed in exposed positions. While many kinds of paint -have been discovered and patented, composed of a great variety of materials, it -is a question if there is a substance used that is an effective substitute for linseed -oil, regarding the effectiveness of which an authority on the subject says: -“By consulting experienced and unbiased painters you will learn the fact that -there is no vehicle pigments at all approaching linseed oil in effectiveness and -durability, especially for exposure to the weather. A good paint must be both -hard and elastic. It requires hardness to prevent abrasion and wear, and elasticity -to prevent cracking from expansion and contraction. Nothing but linseed -oil will give these qualities, for, strange as it may seem to many in these days of -novelties, the pigments really add but very little to the effectiveness of paints. -Mark, we say the best of pigments, for many pigments are the reverse of protective, -and are really destructive to both the vehicles and the material which -they are supposed to protect. For example, coal tar and all its products, -whether called dead oil, asphalt, rubber, etc., are of the class just described, and -their use at any price, especially for covering sheet-metals, is a wanton waste -of money. Extended experiments have demonstrated that there is no better -pigment for metal than a good iron ore ground to an impalpable powder. To -be most thoroughly effective the pigment must be intimately incorporated with -the vehicle, which can best be done only by grinding them together in a stone -mill by steam power.” It is of the greatest importance that sheet-metal roofs, -especially those made of iron, should be protected from the action of the elements, -as when so protected there is hardly any limit to the time they will last. -In order that the paint should be effective, it should be applied before the iron -has had an opportunity to rust, and the first coat should be of the best quality -and applied in the best manner; or if it is defective it is plain that it will not -only require repainting far sooner than it should, but no matter how good the -subsequent coatings of paint are, they cannot be effective if founded on an original -coating which has commenced to crack or peel, as it certainly will if not -prepared with the best methods and materials. Another important point to be -observed in the painting of sheet-metal is that the paint should not be too thick, -as it is the linseed oil that is to be depended on to furnish protection, and as -the action of the air on the surface of the exposed oil gives it a particularly hard -surface, two thin coats of paint are much more durable than one thick one.</p> - -<p>Remember, it is the <b>rust-preventing</b> qualities of linseed oil, combined -with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the corrosive action -of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. (<a href="#Page_101">See page 101.</a>)</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE CELLAR.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The cellar under a dwelling house has many advocates. It is a -convenient, cool place, and nineteen times out of twenty is a damp, -dark, musty, foul-smelling place. It cannot well be otherwise and -be a cellar. It is a store-room for all sorts of vegetables; odds and -ends of most everything are laid away in that dark retreat. It is the -favorite resort of spiders, toads and other creeping things; it is the -unrelenting enemy (?) of the family physician, the breeding-place of -malaria, which unceasingly sends its poisonous vapors into every part -of the dwelling above it. It would be suicide for one to make it -their sleeping room.</p> - -<p>But if you insist upon having a cellar under your house, and -will not put it under the corn-crib or carriage-house, see that it is -properly constructed. This is more important than most of the -other parts of the house, for upon it in a great measure depends the -health of your entire family.</p> - -<p>The floor of the cellar should be hard and dry, with no woodwork -in its construction. To obtain this result, cover the floor -about three inches deep with coarse gravel, or broken stone, well -pounded to a level surface. Fill this with a thin mortar, composed -of one part hydraulic cement and two parts sharp sand, smoothing -it off with a trowel or plasterer’s level. When we mention sharp -sand, we mean coarse, clean sand.</p> - -<p>Build a flue, say 8 × 12 inches (with an opening next to the floor -of the cellar fully that size), from the bottom of cellar foundation -alongside of and extending to top of kitchen chimney, the heat of -which will create a constant, upward current of air from the cellar. -On the opposite side of cellar from this ventilating flue make an air -inlet near the ceiling for the purpose of supplying fresh air to the -cellar. This will keep the cellar dry and the atmosphere healthy. -Put a wire netting over the opening to prevent the entrance of rats -and mice. If from the nature of the location, or other causes, a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> -cellar is damp, dig a trench all around a little below and outside of -the foundation wall; this trench should be covered with flat stones -and earth filled in a little above the surface line, so that surface -water will flow from, and not settle next to, the foundation walls. -When the cellar is completed whitewash the walls and ceiling.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">OUR “QUEEN ANNE” VALLEY,<br /> -<span class="smaller">FOR SLATE, TIN OR WOOD SHINGLES.</span></h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus17.jpg" width="175" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">Patented October 30th, 1883.</p> - -<p>This cut fairly illustrates -our improvement. The corrugations -at the side keep -the edges rigid, and prevent -the edges from <i>dipping</i> into -any space that may be between -the roof boards where -they are not laid close. Besides -this, they dispense with -the necessity of chalk lines, -and hold the shingle or slate -from lying close upon the -metal, preventing decay both -of wood and metal. A convenience -and benefit to every -builder.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>To be used where the pitch of the -roof is equal to that necessary -in using the ordinary shingle.</i></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus18.jpg" width="500" height="625" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> G.—<i>Front Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,000 to $3,500.</p> - -<p>Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with -7 × 10, same quality; and porches with Broad-Rib Tin Plate Roofing.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Smithtown Branch, L. I.</span>, November 27th, 1886.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—During the recent very heavy storms—wind and rain—the -roof on my house, put on with Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles, <i>stood the test</i>; not -a single leak has ever been discovered, not even around the chimneys, valleys, -nor where the roof of the wing butts up against the main building. The work -was done in April last, and never leaked, and I think <i>never will</i>, as long as the -material lasts.</p> - -<p>You will remember how reluctant I was to try the shingles, but I am now -glad that I did so, for I not only have a good first-class roof—fire-proof—but I -also have the <i>handsomest</i> roof in our town. I promised you I would come in -and see you, and tell you how I liked the shingles, but not having done so, I -write you this.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">COE D. SMITH.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus19.jpg" width="700" height="700" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i> <span class="spacer"><i>Second Floor.</i></span></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> G.—(<i>Elevation, <a href="#Page_24">page 24</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">New Bedford, Mass.</span>, June 24th, 1887.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—The Metallic Shingles, which were put on by you on the roof -of the New Bristol County Jail and House of Correction at this place, are entirely -satisfactory in every respect, the manner in which the plates are rolled -overcoming all objections to the expansion and contraction of the metal. Those -that were put on here were of hard rolled copper, and have now turned a beautiful -bronze color, and is very much admired by all who have seen it. The roof -cannot but be an extremely desirable roof, and I do not see that it can need -repairs of any kind for years to come.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">ROBERT H. SLACK, Architect.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">WOOD AND METAL SHINGLES.</h2> - -</div> - -<h3>COMPARATIVE COST.</h3> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus20.jpg" width="300" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>We are often asked if -our metal shingles are as -cheap as wood shingles. -While we cannot consistently -say they are not; still, if -we say they are, they refer -to our price list, which -necessitates an explanation -something like this:</p> - -<p>We will suppose a dwelling -is to be built to cost, say $2,500. Such a house will usually -require about 20 squares of roof covering, which, if done with wood -shingles, fixes the cost of fire insurance about one-quarter of one per -cent. higher than a metal roof during its existence. This extends -not only to the house, but all contained in such roofed houses. And -this is the case, no matter how good the wood shingles are.</p> - -<p>In making this comparison, we will consider such shingles as are -generally used in the older settled portions of the country. We are -aware that shingles made from well-matured timber, straight-grained, -free from sap and wind-shakes, full length, hand drawn to five-eighths -of an inch at the butt, four inches wide, and carefully put on make a -good, durable roof. But shingles of that kind are only to be had in -the thinly settled portions of the country.</p> - -<p>It is the broad, thin, split or sawed shingles, found in all markets, -which we contend are more expensive than our metal shingles. -These do not last, on an average, more than fifteen years, and after<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span> -ten years the repairs are a continual expense until removed and replaced -with new material, which is not often done until some of the -woodwork is badly damaged, and ceiling cracked and stained from -frequent leakages. On the other hand, <i>tin shingles will last for any -length of time, if painted once in every five or six years, and show no -perceptible wear</i>.</p> - -<h3>Cost of a TIN SHINGLE Roof for a period of Fifteen Years.</h3> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>Twenty squares of Tin Shingles, at $6.75 per square</td> - <td class="tdr">$135 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Labor of putting on same</td> - <td class="tdr">10 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>One coat of paint after roof is laid</td> - <td class="tdr">8 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Total cost of same</td> - <td class="tdr">$153 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>One coat of paint at expiration of five years</td> - <td class="tdr">10 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>One coat of paint at expiration of ten years</td> - <td class="tdr">10 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>One coat of paint at expiration of fifteen years</td> - <td class="tdr">10 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at one-half of one per - cent. per annum</td> - <td class="tdr">187 50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="in8">Total cost at expiration of fifteen years</td> - <td class="tdr total">$370 50</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<h3>Cost of a WOOD SHINGLE Roof for a Period of Fifteen Years.</h3> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>Twenty squares of Wood Shingles, at $3.75 per square</td> - <td class="tdr">$65 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Putting on same</td> - <td class="tdr">20 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Expense of five years’ repairs, after expiration of ten years; - damage to roof and ceiling caused by leakage not counted</td> - <td class="tdr">15 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at three-quarters of one - percent. per annum</td> - <td class="tdr">281 25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Expense of covering at expiration of fifteen years</td> - <td class="tdr">85 00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="in8">Total</td> - <td class="tdr total">$466 25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><b>Making a difference in favor of Tin Shingles in a period of - fifteen years of</b></td> - <td class="tdr"><b>$95.75</b></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE ROOF.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus21.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">(For Finials, <a href="#Page_74">see page 74</a>.)</p> -</div> - -<p>A roof for your house is indispensable, and because it is so, let it -be a good one. No part of your house is subject to the same amount -of exposure, and there is no -part independent of its protection. -If you have built -for the personal comfort of -yourself and family, do not -slight the roof because cheap, -plain material is the most -convenient. There is really -no economy in doing so. It -is outside, to be sure, but, -like the chimney, it is a necessity. -As we cannot ignore -it, we must try to make -it, as a part of the house, -attractive. No money spent -on the house will add more -to its selling value than that -expended in taste and material -for the roof.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/illus22.jpg" width="300" height="250" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The difference expended in favor of good material adds to every -part of the structure. The roof is about the first thing the prospective -purchaser sees. He -cannot help it; it is right -before his eyes. His first -impressions are the hardest -to overcome.</p> - -<p>A good roof must be, -first, rain-proof; second, -fire-proof; third, light in -weight; fourth, durable; -fifth, ornamental; sixth, -not liable to get out of -order. You can have your -house covered with such a -roof, and not pass the limited -boundaries of economy.</p> - -<p>Read carefully the pages of this little book devoted to roofing -materials and sundries.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE KITCHEN.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Somehow, our architects and builders habitually neglect to -study the requirements of the kitchen, but persist in constructing -for this use a plainly constructed room, generally cramped in size, -with no means of escaping the great heat generated by the range or -stove, which in the hot months of summer is almost unbearable. If -men were often obliged to remain in such a place, a large part of the -day during the hot season, they would be quick to seize upon any -plan which would mitigate the heat. But as their wives, daughters -or “help” preside in that department, they offer no amendment to -the long-established mode of kitchen construction.</p> - -<p>Now, a kitchen can be so constructed that even with the largest -size family-stove or range in use, it will be as comfortable as any -other room in the house, and at an expense not to exceed the cost -of the stove or range used. To do this, build of brick a large open -fire-place, say from three to twelve inches broader than the length of -the stove or range to be used, and from front to rear deep enough to -receive the same. It is best to set an ordinary cook-stove with the -side to the front, so that the oven door can be convenient. The -oven door, of course, on the opposite side is permanently closed. -The range being differently constructed can readily be set in the -brick enclosure or open fire-place, the walls of which should be built -perpendicular to the floor, and about five feet high. The back wall -should be sufficiently thick to commence at this point a smoke-flue -8 × 12 inches, with an opening to receive the smoke-pipe from the -range or stove, and continue it out through the roof of house (see -“Chimneys”); resting on the walls of this open fire-place build, -either with wood or brick, a tapering flue, so that after emerging -from the roof it will expose an opening of not less than four square -feet. A cap should be put over this to prevent an entrance of rain, -but not to contract the draught space.</p> - -<p>You will see by this arrangement you have a large chimney with -a fire-place at the bottom large enough to receive the stove or range.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span> -Now construct a sliding sash with double strength glass, and balanced -with weights, with the upper end of sash inside the draught -flue, and the lower end to reach within a foot of the floor, and about -four inches from the side of stove. You will readily perceive that -the heat from the stove inside the flue will constantly cause a strong -draught between the bottom of the sash and the floor, which will -prevent heat from escaping into the kitchen, keeping it as cool as -any room in the house. Even with the sash up, the draught will -take nearly all the heat through the flue over the stove, carrying -with it the steam and odor during the process of cooking. A coat of -whitewash inside the brick-work will add to the appearance and give -light, which is shadowed by the flue.</p> - -<p>The kitchen should be large and light, and, if possible, be joined -by a broad covered porch, upon which much of the kitchen work -can be done in warm weather.</p> - -<p>As this little book is merely hints to builders, we cannot go into -the details of hot and cold water, stationary wash-tubs and such -matters. But we will say, more important than all this is a well-constructed -drain pipe, not less than three inches in diameter, leading -from the kitchen sink to a point some distance (according to the -nature of the ground) from the house. This pipe inside the kitchen, -should have a trap to prevent offensive odors escaping into the -room.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">SAMPLE SHINGLES.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our <span class="smcap">Walter’s -Patent Shingles</span> (three pieces) to any address in the United States -on receipt of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the -expense, but we propose to make the cost as light as possible to -those interested in building.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th Street,<br /> -New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus23.jpg" width="500" height="550" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> F.—<i>Front Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,300 to $2,600.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>BRONZE METAL SHINGLES.—We believe we are the first to offer Bronze -Metal Shingles to the World; certainly the first to manufacture them in the -United States. No other metal known for house covering is their equal, not -excepting copper, which in its pure state is rather soft and pliable, unless of a -weight to practically exclude its use.</p> - -<p>Bronze Metal is hard, rigid and sufficiently ductile to make the most serviceable -roofing material for public and first-class private buildings in the -world. Any house designed to exist as a memorial of man’s sagacity and -thrift should be covered with these shingles. They are as enduring as marble; -they will wear for any length of time.</p> - -<p>We make them in three sizes—7 by 10, 10 by 14, and Queen Anne style. -Prices furnished upon application.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.</span>,<br /> -Office, 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus24.jpg" width="500" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> F.—<i>Side Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p>Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 No. 1 Standard Tin Shingles; gables with -7 × 10, same quality; and porches with Broad-Rib Tin Roofing. Use attic ventilators -and lights (<a href="#Page_73">see page 73</a>) on main roof.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lititz, Pa.</span>, February 27th, 1885.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—I was the first man in this town to cover my new house, built -last summer, with Walter’s Patent Charcoal Tin Shingles, and will say that -they have given, thus far, entire satisfaction. They are not only ornamental -but durable, and since my roof has introduced them in our town, a great many -have been put on, all giving satisfaction. I am sure that this is the material -for roofing houses in the future. They are better than any other roof now in -use, and will take the place of wood shingles, which are getting scarce, and also -of slate roofs, which are broken by storms. Mine has stood the test of the -severest storms, during the summer and winter, known here for many years, and -has proven itself what you claim it is—absolutely wind, rain and storm-proof.</p> - -<p class="right">JOHNSON MILLER, Secretary.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus25.jpg" width="700" height="475" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i> <span class="spacer"><i>Second Floor.</i></span></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> F.—(<i>Elevations, <a href="#Page_31">pages 31 and 32</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Cedar Bluff, Ala.</span>, February 20th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Enclosed find exchange for one hundred and forty and 50/100 -dollars to cover bill roofing.</p> - -<p>I am delighted with the Walter’s shingle, and the universal verdict of all -who have seen my roof is that it is a perfect beauty. You will hear from me -again, and you may expect other orders from this place.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">R. LAWRENCE.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">BRICK-WORK.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>“Brick from the run of the kiln” will answer for most houses; -those of even color, well-burnt and regular shape, should be selected -for the outside walls and chimneys. Those of irregular shape, too -hard or too soft for outside walls, can be used for filling in, or partition -walls. No soft burnt brick should be allowed where exposed -to the weather. Supposing the foundation is finished, and first-floor -joists are laid, commence by filling between joists, flush with the top -of joists and even with the inside of foundation walls, so no shelves -are left between the joists for the purpose shown in hints under the -head of “Foundation,” <a href="#Page_6">page 6</a>.</p> - -<p>If the inside of outside walls are to be furred, be prepared to -insert strips about the thickness of common lath between brick joints -at points where base boards are to be put, and to fasten long strips -or grounds as called by plasterers. No mortar should be put between -the lath strip and the brick, but let the lath be pressed by the -surface of the upper and lower brick; the natural settling of the wall -will hold the lath tight enough to bear any amount of nailing.</p> - -<p>For doors and windows, insert pieces same thickness, but large -enough to receive the casings. These thin pieces inserted in the -mortar joints are better and cheaper than plugs or wooden brick, -which are apt to shrink and become loose when the brick-work dries. -It is very important that flues for ventilation and chimneys be properly -started (see “Chimneys”) and carried through the roof to a -height, if possible, above the apex of the roof. Ventilating flues -should run alongside the chimney flues where the construction favors -them. Too much care cannot be taken in building these flues. They -should be carefully and smoothly plastered on the inside, and no -wood-work be allowed nearer than five inches from the inside of flue. -It is customary to use headers (cross bricks) every five courses, to -bind the walls together. Many people object to headers, and prefer -to expose only the edge surface of the brick. This can be done by -clipping the inside courses of outside brick so as to allow the middle<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> -course to lay angular across the wall, with opposite courses resting -half way between and on the outside courses, or by using square -brick. The latter is a saving of labor if they can be had at a reasonable -price. The thickness of walls depends entirely upon the size of -structure to be built. For ordinary dwelling-houses, twelve inches -is thick enough for outside walls and nine inches for partition walls. -Mortar for brick-work above foundation should be made of one part -of good lime, slacked at time of mixing the mortar, and four parts of -screened sharp sand. The cementing qualities of sand and fresh -lime depend on the purity of the sand. By pure sand we mean that -which is free from loam or clay.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">STANDARD -CHARCOAL ROOFING TIN SHINGLES.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Our Standard Charcoal Roofing Tin Shingles are made of such -brands as “Mansel,” “Dean,” “Worcester,” “P. T. L.” &c., and -guaranteed to be first-class, well-coated plates, perfect in finish. -Next comes our Galvanized (re-dipped) shingle; this is our Standard -Tin Shingle, taken after it is made and dipped into melted zinc, adding -a second coat of fully twenty pounds on each square, giving with -the tin, a more durable coating than that used on galvanized iron, -making it absolutely rust-proof and saving painting. Next is what -we call “Old Process” or “M. F.” This is what is known as “Old -Style,” “Double-Dipped,” “Old Method,” and other names, but -what is really a very superior article of roofing plate, having a much -heavier coating than “Standard,” but, like it, has to be painted. -There are many brands of practically one quality in the market, and, -having no choice ourselves, we supply the brand preferred; but if the -best is asked for, we send “Old Process,” believing it to be equal -to any.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THINGS ARE ONLY GOOD OR BAD -BY COMPARISON.</h2> - -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles Compared with Slate.</span></h3> - -<p>Our shingles are not one-sixth the weight of slate, which greatly -reduces the cost of the frame-work of roof. They readily conform -to the shape of a roof, which slate will not do. Slate is not thoroughly -fire-proof, as heat from an adjoining building on fire will -cause the slate to crack, which would destroy the best roof in a few -minutes, leaving the sheeting exposed. Especially is this the case if -water is thrown on them while hot.</p> - -<p>Our shingles are free from the many accidents to which slate -roofs are liable, such as cracking from shrinkage of wood-work to -which they are attached; breaking, caused by necessary repairs to -the valleys or chimneys; and the effect of frost on defective slate. -Such defects cannot always be avoided by ordinary observation. -All builders of experience are aware of the expensive repairs necessary -to keep a slate roof in good order, but perhaps the most inconsistent -thing connected with the whole roofing business is the fact -that nineteen-twentieths of all the houses covered with slate <b>have -gutters lined with the same material of which our shingles -are made</b>, while slate was used for covering because of its supposed -durability.</p> - -<p>Should anything fall on our shingles it would probably dent -them without causing a break; but should it perforate them, the -shingles can be replaced by another, or a leak can be soldered, and -fire from an adjoining roof cannot more than injure the paint. They -will cool off rapidly, retaining their shape.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles Compared with Ordinary -Tin Roofing.</span></h3> - -<p>Of this we speak with the advantage of many years’ experience -as practical roofers. The great difficulty metal roofers have to contend -with is contraction and expansion of the metal under the -changes of temperature. This cause alone calls for continued -repairs in all flat lock or standing seam roofs, and the seams underneath -are receptacles for any moisture which may condense on the -underside of the metal. All such roofs first show decay in the cross -seams, and this, while the body of the plates shows no sign of decay. -Our shingles have no cross seam, and are sufficiently ventilated to -prevent condensation of moisture; while a glance at their construction -shows at once that the difficulty caused by contraction and -expansion is successfully overcome. Our shingles do not require -the skilled labor which is necessary to lay the flat lock or standing -groove metal roofing, while the time required to lay a given surface -is much less.</p> - -<p>In estimating the difference of cost between the ordinary tin -roofing and our shingle, a steep roof house alone must be taken in -consideration, as our shingle is not proposed for a flat roof. (See -“Comparative Cost,” <a href="#Page_26">pages 26 and 27</a>.)</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">ROOFING SUNDRIES.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>We were the first to manufacture a full line of Valley, Hip and -Ridge Coping, Gable, &c., to enable the builder or roofer to use -them at a reasonable price, and are the only factory in America prepared -to furnish such trimming in any quantity; and while they are -not absolutely necessary, they greatly lessen the amount of labor and -cost of laying, besides adding a finish to the roof not otherwise obtained, -so that the saving in labor will pay the additional cost.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus26.jpg" width="700" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> E.—<i>Front and Side Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">SIX-ROOM COTTAGE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,000 to $2,300.</p> - -<p>Use Broad-Rib Steel Plate with attic vents (<a href="#Page_73">see page 73</a>) for roof, and 10 × 14 No. 2 Metal Shingles for gables.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus27.jpg" width="700" height="475" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i> <span class="spacer"><i>Second Floor.</i></span></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> E.—<i>Elevations, <a href="#Page_38">page 38</a>.</i></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>ROOF PAINT.—We use the best Brown Mineral Oxide of Iron, roasted -and double-ground, mixed with boiled linseed oil, grinding them together, -and adding only enough turpentine to dry in the air in seventy-two hours. -We first dip the shingles, and after they have stood a short time, and before -the paint has set, they are carefully gone over with a brush, insuring an even, -perfect coat, not obtainable in any ordinary way of painting.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>All tin roofers, who have experience, know the importance of putting on -a second coat. In spite of the best care in laying, more or less paint is -scratched off, and without a second coat the roof is not finished. Architects -and builders always require it, and if a heavy single coat of paint is given -the roof every five or six years, there will be no perceptible wear on the tin, -insuring many years’ service.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">OUR NEW PATENT.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus28.jpg" width="400" height="300" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Patented April 4th, 1882. <span class="spacer">Patented Nov. 8th, 1887.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Our Queen Anne Shingles are designed expressly to meet a -want often expressed for an attractive and artistic roof covering and -outside decorating. They are not intended to take the place of our -Standard Walter’s Patent, which for general use are incomparable, -but less ornamental than the Queen Anne Shingles. They have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span> -bold clean cut lines, producing, from the effects of light and shade, -the most striking and artistic roof yet produced by metallic shingles -or tiles.</p> - -<p>For church spires, belt coursing, towers or mansard roofing, -they cannot be excelled. The cut illustrates the kind of finish used -at the eaves and verge board. The same ridge coping used for our -Standard Shingles can be used for this. This shingle must be seen -to be appreciated.</p> - -<p>We recommend the Bronze Metal, or the Galvanized Shingles -for use on public or first-class private buildings, because such buildings -should be covered with the best roofing material to be had.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>Each superficial foot of brick wall,</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>inches</td> - <td>thick</td> - <td>requires</td> - <td class="tdr">7</td> - <td>brick.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">15</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">12</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">22</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">16</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">29</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">20</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">37</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">24</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">45</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>SURFACE MEASURE.—All roofers compute roofing jobs by squares, -which means 100 square feet, or 10 feet square. If you go to your architect -or roofer and ask him how much it will take or cost to cover your roof, he -will first ascertain how many square feet there are to be covered; and if, for -example, there are 2,500 square feet he will tell you there are twenty-five -squares to be covered; and in order to intelligently supply what is wanted, -we put up our shingles in boxes of one square each; that is to say, each box -of one square will cover one hundred square feet after they have been put on.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">OLD MATERIALS.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>In tearing down old work be as careful as in putting up new.</p> - -<p>Old material should never be destroyed simply because it is old.</p> - -<p>When putting away old stuff see that it is protected from rain -and the atmosphere.</p> - -<p>It costs about 15 per cent. extra to work up old material, and -this fact should be borne in mind, as I have known several contractors -who paid dearly for their “whistle” in estimating on working -up second-hand material.</p> - -<p>These remarks apply to wood-work only. In using old bricks, -stone, slate and other miscellaneous materials, it is as well to add -double price for working up.</p> - -<p>Workmen do not care to handle old material, and justly so. It -is ruinous to tools, painful to handle, and very destructive to clothing.</p> - -<p>In my experience I always found it pay to advance the wages of -workmen—skilled mechanics—while working up old material. This -encouraged the men and spurred them to better efforts.</p> - -<p>Sash frames, with sash weights, locks and trim complete, may be -taken out of old buildings that are being taken down and preserved -just as good as new by screwing slats and braces on them, which not -only keeps the frame square, but prevents the glass from being broken.</p> - -<p>Doors, frames and trims may also be kept in good order until -used, by taking the same precautions as in window frames.</p> - -<p>Old scantlings and joists should have all nails drawn or hammered -in before piling away.</p> - -<p>Counters, shelving, drawers and other store-fittings should be -kindly dealt with. They will be wanted sooner or later.</p> - -<p>Take care of the locks, hinges, bolts, keys and other hardware. -Each individual piece represents money in a greater or lesser sum.</p> - -<p>Old flooring can seldom be utilized, though I have seen it used -for temporary purposes, such as fencing, covering of veranda floors -while finishing work on plastering, etc. As a rule, however, it does -not pay to take it up carefully and preserve it. Conductor pipes, -metallic cornices, and sheet metal work generally, can seldom be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span> -made available a second time though all is worth caring for, as some -parties may use it for repairs.</p> - -<p>Sinks, wash-basins, bath-tubs, traps, heating appliances, grates, -mantels and hearth-stones should be moved with care. They are -always worth money and may be used in many places as substitutes -for more inferior fixings.</p> - -<p>Marble mantels require the most careful handling.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the most difficult fixings about a house to adapt a -second time are the stairs. Yet I have known where a man has so -managed to put up new buildings that the old stairs taken from -another building just suited. This may have been a “favorable -accident,” but the initiated reader will understand him. Seldom -such accidents can occur.</p> - -<p>Rails, balusters and newels may be utilized much readier than -stairs, as the rail may be lengthened or shortened to suit variable -conditions.</p> - -<p>Gas fixtures should be cared for and stowed away in some dry -place. They can often be made available, and are not easily renovated -if soiled or tarnished.</p> - -<p>It is not wise to employ men who have nothing but their -strength to recommend them. As a rule they are like bears—have -more strength than knowledge, and lack of the latter is often an -expensive desideratum. Employ for taking down the work good -careful mechanics, and do not have the work “rushed through.” -Rushers of this sort are expensive.</p> - -<p>Never send old material to a mill to be sawed or planed, no -matter how carefully nails, pebbles and sand have been hunted for, -the saw or planer knives will most assuredly find some you have -overlooked, then there will be trouble at the mill.</p> - -<p>Have some mercy for the workman’s tools. If it can be avoided -do not work up old stuff into fine work. If not avoidable pay the -workman something extra because of injury to tools.</p> - -<p>Don’t grumble if you do not get as good results from the use of -old material as from new. The workman has much to contend with -while working up old nail-speckled, sand-covered material.</p> - -<p class="right"><i>Builder and Woodworker.</i></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">HEATING.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/illus29.jpg" width="250" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">STEAM AND WARM AIR COMBINED.</p> -</div> - -<p>I once knew a church building -committee who planned and built -quite a large church, and when I was -called in to arrange for heating the -building with a large furnace, the -furnace committee were astonished -when told that the building committee -had forgotten the fact that the -hot-air furnace required a chimney.</p> - -<p>The construction of many houses -suggests that houses built in the -hot months of summer needed no -special provision for heating. This -is an important subject, and should -be carefully considered in the construction -of the plainest house. Always take climate, location and -fuel into consideration. The open fire place, with fire on the hearth, -is without doubt the most cheerful and healthful. This is the favorite -and best mode for plain country homes. But in all instances, for -churches and public halls, the open fire-place is not to be depended -upon. There is a variety of good steam-heaters and hot-air furnaces -to choose from. Consult the parties from whom you buy as to the -size of heater required; its location, size of cold-air duct, register, -pipe, etc.</p> - -<p>For small rural churches that have no basement, construct a -small room under the front entrance or vestibule; eight feet square, -inside measure, is sufficient. Near its floor have a cold-air entrance -leading to the furnace. Cover the opening with wire netting to prevent -the entrance of mice. Use brick for the room, building the -walls eight inches thick; leave openings 2½ × 4 inches, about one foot -apart all around the bottom next to the floor. Carry the wall close to -the ceiling, and make it tight by plastering carefully inside and out<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> -where it joins the ceiling. Cover the ceiling, by nailing to joists, -with bright sheets of tin, and white-wash the brick-work inside. For -entrance make a door 6 × 3 feet. A plain wooden one will answer. -In the aisle of the church, immediately over this room, put a large -grating, such as your furnace-men will suggest. In this room place -your furnace, and have it <i>large enough</i> to heat the room above during -the coldest weather <i>without excessive firing</i>. With a larger capacity -than necessary, the furnace will last longer, burn less coal, and give -better results in every respect. As the furnace will radiate considerable -heat, this can be utilized by running a pipe of proper size -from the room to the vestibule or some other room. The objection -to using this heat in the church is the noise of firing up, which would -be annoying during church service. However, a furnace properly -attended will not need firing during church service. Remember, a -large volume of <i>warm</i> air is what you want, and <i>not</i> a small volume -of <i>hot</i> air. Never cover the grating or close the cold-air duct to cool -off while there is fire in the furnace, but open the doors or windows -of the church and check the fire. The closing of the grating or -cold-air duct will injure the castings of the furnace by overheating -them.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CLOSE SHEATHING THE BEST.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>While a rain-proof roof can be made with our shingles, our system, -as well as all metal or slate roofing should not be put upon open -sheathing. If walked upon the metal will not support the weight, -and bends out of shape, and the roof is blamed. In high latitudes -where we have driving storms of fine snow or “blizzards,” <i>we specify -close sheathing covered by paper</i> (<i>using same rules as for laying slate</i>). -We will then guarantee a perfect roof.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE CISTERN.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Three things are all that are necessary -to supply any family with the -purest and best water in the world -for drinking, cooking and washing -purposes: a well-constructed cistern, -a clean roof and a rain-fall.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 280px;"> -<img src="images/illus30.jpg" width="250" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CUT-OFF ATTACHMENT.</p> - -<ul class="caption"> -<li><i>A.</i> To connect with down pipe.</li> -<li><i>B.</i> Outlet for waste water.</li> -<li><i>C.</i> Leads to filter or cistern.</li> -<li><i>D.</i> Is adjustable to fit box <i>C</i>.</li> -<li><i>E.</i> Fastenings to wall of house.</li> -<li><i>F.</i> Side view of <i>D</i>.</li> -<li><i>G.</i> Handle to adjust <i>D</i>.</li> -</ul> - -<p class="caption">(Not patented; can be made by any tinsmith.)</p> -</div> - -<p>These are within the reach of -every one able to own a home. By -a cistern we mean an excavation in -the earth from twelve to twenty-five -feet deep. Dig deep if you want cold -water all the year round. From eighteen -to twenty-five feet will produce -it. If your cistern is dug in a clayey -soil, there is no use of brick lining; -but if in gravel, sandy or rocky soil, -line the inside with hard, well burnt -brick, and do the work well; using -for mortar equal parts of hydraulic -lime and clean, sharp sand. When completed, plaster the inside carefully -with the same mortar. If the walls are clay plaster immediately -on the sides and bottom, without lining with brick.</p> - -<p>No roofing material is better for collecting chemically pure -water than tin, and none so bad as wood shingles. They hold dirt -which no ordinary shower will wash off, and furnish organic matter -which is disagreeable to the taste and smell; the porous nature of -wood makes it the home of myriads of insects, the remains of which -are eventually deposited in the cistern and poison its waters.</p> - -<p>No such objections can be urged against tin roofing. A short -shower cleanses it thoroughly. Water-pipes leading into the cistern -in every case should have a cut-off attachment within easy reach.</p> - -<p>There are several on the market, but those having no inside -arrangement to get out of order, or obstruct the direct passage of -water into either the cistern or waste-pipe, are the best. The water -should be strained before entering the cistern. This can be built<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span> -of brick and be underground, or a cask can be used above ground. -A strong, iron-bound linseed oil barrel answers the purpose. Its construction -is very simple. Take out one end of the cask and perforate -it with a sufficient number of one-inch auger holes; lay four -brick on edge in the bottom of the cask, and let the perforated cask -head rest upon them. Then fill the cask three-quarters full of charcoal, -pounding it down on top pretty hard. Put on top of the -charcoal clean, coarse gravel to within three inches of the top of -cask; make a covering with an opening to receive the water which -flows from the roof, and convey the water from the bottom of cask -to the cistern. At least once a year this filter should be emptied -and cleansed, putting in new charcoal and washing the gravel carefully. -Let no summer months’ water run into the cistern. See that -the first rain of a shower is used to wash the dust and soot from -your roof before it is turned into the cistern, and you will have an -abundance of water not equaled by any well or spring.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">BUILDING PAPERS.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus31.jpg" width="200" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>NEPONSET PAPER is absolutely -water-proof and air-tight, is -clean to handle, not tarred felt, but -far more durable. Its resistance to -air and dampness renders it unsurpassed -under clapboards, iron roofing -and wood or tin shingles.</p> - -<p>CLIMAX is a light, clean, pink, -colored paper; useful for any purpose -where building paper is required; is -much cheaper than Neponset, but not -water-proof. The use of building paper -under roofing or clapboards adds -greatly to the ease of warming a -building. By its use you save fuel and -your house is more comfortable. Its -cost is nominal compared with its -advantages. We keep a large stock -and fill orders promptly.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">COLORS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25em;"> - -<ul> -<li>Blue and yellow makes green.</li> -<li>White and yellow makes buff.</li> -<li>White, yellow and black makes drab.</li> -<li>White and black makes lead.</li> -<li>White and black makes gray.</li> -<li>White, black and blue makes pearl.</li> -<li>White and lake makes pink.</li> -<li>White, blue and black makes slate.</li> -<li>Red, black and blue makes brown.</li> -<li>Red, black and yellow makes maroon.</li> -<li>Red and yellow makes orange.</li> -<li>Blue and lake makes purple.</li> -</ul> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">U. S. Marine Barracks, Navy Yard, Pensacola, Fla.</span>, October 22d, 1887.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sirs</span>:—In compliance with your request, I have to say that about a year -ago I was called upon to decide which of several kinds of roofing material to -select for two barrack buildings, which I was constructing for the Government -at this place. Owing to the heat and moisture of the climate, very destructive -to wood, and the proximity of the Gulf of Mexico, which makes what is known -as a salt atmosphere, very injurious to iron roofing, I was induced to try your -system, and ordered the 14 × 20 size, I. C. Standard, some painted and some -galvanized. As it was previously almost unknown to me, I had to assume -the risk of its success, and have since watched it very closely; the more so, as -it was laid by soldiers entirely unfamiliar with it.</p> - -<p>After the first rain a close inspection failed to reveal a single leak. I have -had it inspected after every heavy rain since then with the same result. On -the 20th inst. we had the severest gale for many years, and the roofs not only -resisted it in every way, but there was no rattle, which could not be said of our -other tin roofs (old system).</p> - -<p>You can refer any one to me for commendation of these points which are -established; also of its architectural beauty, and I have little doubt as to the -rest, for we painted it very carefully on both sides.</p> - -<p class="center">I am, Sirs, very respectfully yours,</p> - -<p class="right">HENRY CLAY COCHRANE,<br /> -Captain U. S. Marine Corps, Commanding Post.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span></p> - -<p>The combination of cherry and light oak proves an excellent -one for over-mantels, for, in addition to contrast of grain, and figure, -and hue, is that of the high polish of which cherry is susceptible with -the somewhat ridgy surface of the oak.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>One coat of paint takes 20 lbs. of lead and 4 gals. of oil per 100 -square yards. The second coat, 40 lbs. lead, 4 gals. oil; the third, -the same as the second—say 100 lbs. lead, 12 gals. oil per 100 square -yards, for three coats.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>One gallon</td> - <td>priming colors</td> - <td>covers</td> - <td class="tdr">50</td> - <td>square yards.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>white zinc</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">50</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>white lead</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">44</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>lead color</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">50</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>black paint</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">50</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>stone color</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">44</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>yellow paint</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">44</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>blue color</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">45</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>green paint</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">45</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>bright emerald</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">25</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td>bronze green</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - <td class="tdr">75</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus32.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">COMPARATIVE PITCH OF ROOFS.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus33.jpg" width="500" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> J.—<i>Front Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p class="center larger">OUR GUARANTEE.</p> - -<p>We guarantee our shingles as follows: If you will use them, and <i>they -are properly put on in accordance with our instructions</i>, and if they do not then -give satisfaction, we agree to replace your roof, free of expense to you, with -equally expensive material, any time within two years from the time you -put them on. In addition to this, we may be able to give you a local reference, -as our goods are in use in every State and Territory. We call your -attention to the price list, and we will be pleased to make you discounts on -application.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th St., New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus34.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> J.—<i>Side Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p>Cover roof with No. 1 Standard 10 × 14 Tin Shingles; use attic vents (<a href="#Page_73">see -page 73</a>) on main roof, and cover belt courses with 7 × 10 Tin Shingles, same -quality as those for main roof.</p> - -<p>The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each -been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and -the proportions and details can be relied upon.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus35.jpg" width="700" height="550" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Second Floor.</i></p> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> J.—(<i>Elevations, <a href="#Page_51">pages 51 and 52</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">SHOWING APPLICATION OF OUR RIDGE -OR HIP COPING.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> - -<div class="figmulti-top" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus36.jpg" width="300" height="175" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Plain Ridge.</p> -</div> - -<div class="figmulti-top" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/illus37.jpg" width="200" height="175" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Manner of Fastening Climax Ridge to Roof Boards.</p> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus38.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Showing Climax Ridge and Gable Finish.</p> -</div> - -<p>These cuts are good -illustrations of our -Ridge Finish, which is -also used as Hip Coping. -It is secured to -the roof comb by nailing -through the flange, -which rests on each -side of the comb. It -makes a durable and -neat finish; is of great -assistance to workmen -not skilled in metal -roofing, and its cost is -no more than the labor -and material necessary -in making the regular standing seam used by roofers in finishing the -comb of sheet metal roofs.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">For Re-Covering.</span>—Use our Roofing; no other has the conveniences -for rapid laying.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">VENTILATION.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus39.jpg" width="300" height="125" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">The “Attic” Sky-light and Ventilator.<br /> -(<a href="#Page_78">See page 78.</a>)</p> -</div> - -<p>As you value health, -study well this important -subject, which is oftener -neglected in constructing -dwellings than any other -detail. An experienced -and observant man can -pick from those whom he -meets on the street men or women who habitually sleep in badly -ventilated rooms. The florist will study and practice the best means -to ventilate his propagating house, and ignore the necessity of the -same principle for himself and family. Everything that breathes—and -what living thing does not?—needs a change of air to remain -in a healthy condition. Leaves are the lungs of plants, and, deprived -of this change, soon assume a delicate, sickly hue.</p> - -<p>Why should the human family, in full possession of reasoning powers, -ignore the lesson that is every day before them? By ventilation we -mean a system that will constantly supply the dwelling with fresh air; -at the same time it draws the vitiated atmosphere from each hall and -room in the house. This can be done during the process of erection -in a simple, effectual and inexpensive manner. Even if it should cost -more than you feel inclined to pay, the result will justify the expense.</p> - -<p>There is no better way of creating upward draught than the -open fire-place, or a flue built with an opening near the floor. Such -flues should not be less than 8 × 8 inches for an ordinary size bedroom, -and should, if possible, be built alongside of the chimney flue, -and extend through the house-top without openings, except the one -nearest the floor in the room it starts from.</p> - -<p>As vitiated air is heavier than pure air, and is always nearest the -floor, the artificial draught caused by a long, upright flue is constantly -at work carrying the lower atmosphere from each room in which -these upward and outward draught flues are built. To supply the -rooms with fresh air, corresponding flues must be built similar in size<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> -and construction to the above. Commence them with outside openings -about on a level with the first floor joists, extending upward, and end -with openings inward near the ceiling. Each of these openings outside -and inside the house should be covered with coarse wire cloth. That -made from tinned or galvanized No. 16 wire, with one-half in. meshes, -is the best. Care should be taken in building these flues to have them -smoothly plastered on the inside. An ornamental finish can be used at -each end if desired. By this arrangement a steady flow of fresh air, -both night and day, is secured without the ill effects of strong draughts.</p> - -<p>Do not try to economize by using one flue for two or more -rooms. Good results are only secured by using a set of flues for each -room or hall. I have seen ventilating flues built to open through the -cornice. That is a bad plan, for even a slight wind will check the -draught while blowing against that side. If the flues are properly -finished after passing through the roof the wind will increase the -draught. The above suggestions answer equally as well for frame -houses. It is easy to construct wood flues between the weatherboarding -and lath.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The object of this invention is to supply the builder with a conductor-pipe -that will not burst after freezing, which all pipes without -provision for expansion are liable when water is frozen solid in them. -The peculiarity of the joint lies in the wedge principle, applied in a -manner which forces the rim of the inside lap hard against the -overlapping end with strength sufficient to do without soldering the -joints. Besides this, each joint is provided with a fastening which prevents -the pipe from settling. This fastening may or may not be used, -but if used in connection with the ordinary pipe hook (which does not -prevent the pipe from settling) makes a very superior fastening.</p> - -<p>The V-shaped corrugation prevents bursting, as it allows the -pipe to expand when frozen, thus preventing its bursting. We make -two sizes, three and four inches in diameter, twenty-eight inches -long, using tin plate, which we galvanize with zinc after it is formed, -making a pipe superior to any galvanized iron pipe of equal weight. -We make the same not galvanized, but painted one coat inside and -out with linseed oil and oxide of iron paint.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<p class="caption">COOPER’S<br />CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE.</p> -<img src="images/illus40.jpg" width="300" height="550" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">AMPLE PROVISION FOR EXPANSION.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus41.jpg" width="700" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> B.—<i>Front and Side Elevation.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimated Cost, $1,200 to $1,500.</p> - -<p>Cover main roof with No. 2 14 × 20 Metal Shingles; gables with same, and porches with 7 × 10, same quality. -Attic ventilators will improve the appearance and give additional light to the rooms under roof (<a href="#Page_73">see page 73</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus42.jpg" width="700" height="550" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>First Floor.</i> <span class="spacer"><i>Second Floor.</i></span></p> -<p class="caption"><i>Design</i> B.—(<i>Elevations, <a href="#Page_58">page 58</a>.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">NAILS.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus43.jpg" width="200" height="60" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>STEEL WIRE BARBED NAILS are superior to any cut nail -made. Are lighter, stronger and easier to drive. Holding firmer -in the wood, and having a larger flat head, they hold the tin to the -roof boards much better, are nearly double the quantity to the -pound, and therefore fully as cheap.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">DEADENING AND FIRE-PROOFING -FLOORS.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus44.jpg" width="300" height="150" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>This can be accomplished in a simple -and inexpensive manner by nailing strips -1 × 1½ inches along the side of each joist, -the top edge of each strip to be two inches -below the top surface of the joist. On -top of these strips lay a floor of rough boards. Second-hand material -answers every purpose for the floor, as the boards need not be matched -or of even thickness.</p> - -<p>On the top of this rough floor spread a covering of coarse -mortar gauged level with the top edge of the joist. When the mortar -is dry lay the floor in the usual manner. It takes a long time for fire -to burn through a floor laid in this manner, and sound is deadened -completely by the mass of non-conducting mortar and the double -floors. For fire-proofing and deadening partitions in an effective -way, build a four-inch brick wall between the studding. A nail -driven every ten or twelve inches in the side of the studding, on the -line of the mortar joint, will hold the wall firmly between the studding. -Where brick is scarce or expensive, sun dried brick made from -stiff clay is a good substitute. They can be made 12 × 12 inches, and -thick enough to come within ⅜ of an inch of the lathing. The mortar -keys impinging against the wall make the plastering firmer and consequently -stronger.</p> - -<p>The expense of fire-proofing and deadening in this manner is so -small, it is surprising it is not more generally adopted. If the flooring -is laid before the mortar used between the joists is dry, it will cause -the boards to swell and may bulge them; and when they finally become -dry will leave ugly looking cracks where they join. Remember, -you cannot have a well built house without giving Nature time to do -her work.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING -WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/illus45.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Cut I.</p> -<p class="caption">Shows manner of finishing with Climax Ridge Stop Block -and Gable End Finish.</p> -</div> - -<p>Commence at the lower -left-hand corner. In -starting be particular -to see that you start -straight with the eaves -of the building. To do -this it is best to draw a -chalk line about twelve -inches from the eaves; -this distance leaves two -inches to project from -the eaves, which in many -cases is more than sufficient. -If you use our -Gable End Finish (Cut -I) it saves the trouble of -fitting the shingles to the -verge board, and adds to the appearance -of the roof. After nailing the -Gable End Finish to its place, press -the left-hand edge of the first shingle -well under the fold of the Gable End -Finish, and before nailing it hook two -or three shingles with the top edge on -a line with your chalk line; then remove -the loose shingles, and nail the -first one which is held to its proper -place by the Gable End Finish. By -doing this in starting each course you -are sure of a straight line if you follow -correctly the gauge lines at the top of -each shingle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus46.jpg" width="300" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Cut A.</p> -<p class="caption">Shows commencement of first two courses.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span></p> - -<p>If your roof has a <b>pitch of six inches to the foot, or steeper, let the -bottom edge of the shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the top of -the underlying shingle, as shown in Cut A</b>. But if the pitch of the roof is -less than six inches to the foot, -let the shingle entirely cover the -lower gauge line, as shown in -Cut B.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/illus47.jpg" width="350" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Cut B.</p> -</div> - -<p>We advise against the use -of our shingles on roofs of less -pitch than five inches to the -foot, unless the lap is increased. -As a rule, we think any roof that -can be walked over with safety -is too flat for shingles of either wood -or metal.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> -<img src="images/illus48.jpg" width="325" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Cut F.</p> -</div> - -<p>Should there be a gutter formed -at the eave, let the shingle -rest on it as you would in -using the ordinary wood -shingle. (Remember -every other course <b>commences -with a half shingle, -as shown in Cuts A -and B</b>.) The same rules -that govern the laying -of slate or the common -wood shingle along valleys, -or about chimneys -and dormer windows, -are applicable to ours, except the tin shingles are bent up against the -sides of chimneys, which cannot be done with wood or slate. When<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span> -our shingles turn up against the sides of chimneys or brick walls, insert -flashing by sawing out the mortar joint above the line of tin -work; where the upper edge of our shingles butts against the brick -wall, as they do on the lower side of chimneys, cut them off on the -line where the chimney comes to the roof, and use a strip of tin bent -in this manner. (See Cut F.) The upper end at A is to fit in mortar -joint. The lower edge, B, is nailed to the sheathing before the -shingles are put on. The upper ends of shingles are then to be -pressed up under the fold, C. Great care should be used in finishing -about chimneys and dormers, the details -of which cannot well be explained to suit -each case; but a workman of ordinary -skill can suggest the -proper manner in which -the work should be done -to secure thoroughly -tight work.</p> - -<p>It is much easier to -secure this result with -the use of our shingles -than it is with either -wood or slate.</p> - -<p>Where the upper end of shingle butts -against the side of a frame house, use -the same means as on the lower side of -chimneys, only let there be no bend at the point A, as shown in Cut -F; but let it extend an inch or so up under the weather boarding. -Where the weather boarding is vertical there is no way of making tight -work but to put the tin work, as before described, back of the vertical -weather board.</p> - -<p>In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half -inch over the lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We furnish -to each customer a small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to -turn this edge over and pinch it together after the shingle is laid.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/illus49.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Cut D.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span></p> - -<p>The Cut D represents the shingles laid to and from the valley. -In starting from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, -or tack them at the top, then with a straight-edge mark and -cut where they overlap the valley; and with the hand-tongs edge and -lock them to the valley, as shown in cut D.</p> - -<p>Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and -press the shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut -to suit the angle of the hip. (See Cut E.)</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/illus50.jpg" width="400" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Cut E.</p> -</div> - -<p>As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip -Coping through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, -therefore, particular to -say wherever this Hip, -or our Plain Ridge Coping -(which is the same -thing) is used it should -be nailed to the roof -boards before the shingles -are put on. The -fold is made expressly -to receive the edge of -the shingles. Cut E -shows this coping and -the manner of applying -it.</p> - -<p>We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the Northern -States, where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, -the necessity of using close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not -close, <b>the use of sheathing paper, to be laid underneath the shingles</b>; it adds -greatly to the warmth of the house in winter, and prevents small particles -of snow from entering, it costs but little, and should always be -used under wood, slate or tin shingles where the best protection is -desired.</p> - -<p class="center smcap">DO NOT Hammer Down the Joints or Lock.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus51.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">PAINTING DEPARTMENT</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">PAINTING.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>After the mason, bricklayer, carpenter, tinsmith and plasterer -comes the painter. At this stage of progress in the work, the owner -usually thinks of moving in; in fact, he thinks he should have been -living in his new house several weeks ago.</p> - -<p>If weather conditions have been good, the representatives of -other branches of house building have got along smoothly excepting -a little shaking up now and then, caused mostly by the men occasionally -yielding to the seductive influences of Old John Barleycorn or -his rival King Growler. The owner, having previously engaged or -contracted for inside painting, now calls on the painter. The man -of colors and brushes is always ready to promise quick work (and -we are free to say the mysteries of his trade are equal to any reasonable -emergency), and is apt to humor his employer’s impatience, and -meekly submits to his wishes knowing that his employer’s hurry is -his gain. House-builder, did it ever occur to you that first-class -inside painting is a slow process? Think of this; after the first -coat is laid, it should stand long enough to become thoroughly dry, -dry enough to be sand-papered. The second coat should be a little -heavier than the first or priming coat. It does not dry as fast as the -first. (We are speaking of good materials properly proportioned.) -Each coat must be thoroughly dry before it is sand-papered. Any -kind of good work requires three coats. Extra good work—four, -besides varnishing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span></p> - -<p>If you succeed in doing this work inside of four weeks you are -fortunate. Thus you see it requires time to do good work. Time -for the men to do theirs, and time for Nature to do hers. Sometimes -Nature frowns and lowers a curtain of humidity for days at a time, -which prevents the oils from drying. It is possible for your painter -to finish all four coats in as many days; but if he is honest and you -have not hurried him unreasonably, his conscience will suffer. Good -painting, like other good things, is durable, looks well, and is the -cheapest in the end.</p> - -<p>Good painters pride themselves on doing good work. So if you -desire first-class work, you should give the painter a reasonable price, -and sufficient time in which to do the work properly.</p> - -<p>There is doubtless more adulteration in paint than in any -materials used in house-finishing. So general is this the case that it -is often difficult to get pure materials. This is caused by the low -price of the products of petroleum, the earth materials used to adulterate -mineral paints, and the demand for cheap work.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h2 class="nobreak">ATTENTION, ROOFERS!</h2> - -<p>Our <span class="smcap">Broad Rib Roofing</span> and <span class="smcap">Steel Plate Shingles</span> are not -protected with a coat of richer metal like those made of tin or terne -plate, and consequently their <i>durability depends upon the paint</i> with -which they should be covered.</p> - -<p>For this purpose nothing, so far as we know, is equal to a mixture -of <i>pure unboiled linseed oil</i> and the <i>oxide of iron</i>. The Shingles -should have two coats, one before they are put on, on both sides -(this we do), the other immediately <i>after they are laid</i>. This last -coat should be repeated <i>every four or five years</i>.</p> - -<p>Remember, it is the <i>rust-preventing</i> qualities of linseed oil, combined -with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the -corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. -(<a href="#Page_101">See page 101.</a>)</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">A PERFECT ROOF.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The best can only be obtained by using good materials, worked -into the best form that theory and experience can suggest.</p> - -<p class="center">WALTER’S PATENT “STANDARD” <span class="smcap">and</span><br /> -COOPER’S PATENT “QUEEN ANNE”<br /> -METALLIC SHINGLES AND SIDING,</p> - -<p class="noindent">made from Tin Plate, Steel Plate, Galvanized Tin Plate, Bronze -Metal, and Copper, are unrivaled for roof covering.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they have a perfect lock, using no cleats, springs or exposed -seams.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they have no exposed fastenings; all nail heads are covered -as perfectly as those used for wood shingles.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they can be applied without the necessity of soldering, and -with no other tools than a hammer, a small pair of hand-tongs -and tin shears.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they break joints by starting each alternate course with a -half shingle, thus bringing the centre of the bottom of each -shingle astraddle of the locked shingle below, securely binding -the same and preventing rattling.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they are easily and rapidly put on, requiring no odd pieces -at the eaves, gables or comb.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span></p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they lessen the expense of insurance, which extends not -only to the building but to furniture and goods contained -therein.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> they do not crack, split, warp, fall off, rust or burn.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> there are no cross seams or joints where rain or moisture -can settle and cause decay.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><span class="smcap">Because</span> we furnish with our shingles, at moderate cost, Valleys, -Gable Strips, Ridge and Hip Coping, that not only improves the -finish of exterior, but assists the workman to an extent that lessens -the cost of applying.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Manufactured by</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City,</p> - -<p class="noindent">and for sale by Dealers in all the principal cities of the United States -and Canada.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center">From BARTLETT HARDWARE CO.,</p> - -<p class="right">Freeport, Ill., January 10th, 1888.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.</span>, -New York City.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—I send you photo. of my house that you may see how handsome -a Roof the 7 × 10 Shingles make. You thought the 10 × 14 would have -been better, but this is the finest roof in this country, and we expect to sell -some the present year. Everybody admires it. Please quote for the coming -season’s trade.</p> - -<p class="center">Very respectfully,</p> - -<p class="right">F. BARTLETT, President.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">WHAT OUR GOODS ARE.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>In offering our goods to the public, we desire to say, briefly, -that the <i>Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates</i> have -now been before this country for nearly eight years, upwards of twelve -thousand buildings have been covered with them in the United -States and Canada, and we feel warranted in referring to the owners -of every building so covered.</p> - -<p>Our shingles have a concealed nailing flange the entire length -of the shingle on one side, and a perfect lock with a concealed gutter -at the side of the nailing flange that provides for <i>expansion and -contraction</i>, with sufficient ventilation to prevent sweating on the -under-side, (causing rust,) so common in the cross seams of flat lock -and standing seam, now in use.</p> - -<p>Our Galvanized (Re-dipped) Shingle is our Standard Tin -Shingle galvanized; and, as every square has twenty pounds of -zinc coating, in addition to the first coat of tin, it will be seen why -it is superior to any galvanized iron made.</p> - -<p>Our “Old Process” prices are designed to cover such grades of -double-coated plates as “Old Style,” “M.F.,” “Phelp’s Triple Plate,” -“Gilbertson’s Old Method,” and “Tregoning Old Process,” all superior -to the Standard Grades, and higher in price. We quote all but -Galvanized, painted both sides. If any size or kind is ordered unpainted, -the price will be 25 cents per square less.</p> - -<p>Our Steel Plate Shingles are made from sheets of Bessemer steel -rolled as smooth as tin plate, they are painted the same as the Standard -Shingles, and when laid on a roof cannot be distinguished from -them. They should be painted every five years with pure linseed oil -and oxide of iron (brown mineral). They will not bear neglect; in -this respect they differ from shingles made from tin plate. The price -is somewhat less, but the greater durability of the Tin Shingles is -worth more than the difference in price.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span></p> - -<p>We make our shingles in four sizes: The smallest, 7 × 10, (showing -an exposed surface, after laid, of 5½ × 9 inches,) is designed for -Mansards, Spires, Siding, and other upright work. The 10 × 14, (exposed -surface, 8¼ × 11½ inches,) is the popular size; and while it -works to the best advantage on complicated roofs, it is equally good -for plain ones. The 14 × 20, (exposed surface, 12 × 17½ inches,) is -used largely on the plainer roofs, where a saving in price and labor -of putting on is an item. The 20 × 28, (exposed surface, 17½ × 25½ -inches,) is made from heavier metal, and is designed for warehouses, -and other large surfaces; and any of the larger shingles can be used -for siding equally as well.</p> - -<p>We are prepared to make any of the above sizes from any special -brand of tin plate in the market, but for our Standard goods, -which we carry in stock, we use a first-class grade of roofing tin -plate, warranted perfect.</p> - -<h3>SAMPLES.</h3> - -<p>We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our <span class="smcap">Walter’s -Patent Shingles</span> (three pieces) to any address in the United States -on receipt of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the -expense, but we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those -interested in building.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th Street,<br /> -New York City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">BROAD RIB ROOFING,</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus52.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Like Our Shingles</b>, has -a nailing flange the entire -length of each sheet. <b>It -forms a Continuous Rib</b> -when applied from eaves -to comb with cross seams -twenty-five inches apart, -which gives it strength and -rigidity not found in roofing -where longer sheets are -used. <b>It has no protruding</b> -anchors, cleats or rivets; -all nail heads are covered -as perfectly as those -used for wood shingles. -<b>There is no waste</b> in using, -either at comb or eaves. -<b>The Side Nailing Flange</b> -admits of the roof being -fastened to roof boards -with any required degree -of strength. <b>The Cross -Seams</b> are formed with a folded lock which allows for contraction and expansion. -<b>Material.</b>—Each sheet of this roofing is made from Best Roofing Tin, or Imported -Siemen’s Sheet Steel, which is hard rolled, tough, durable and <b>thoroughly -coated</b> on both sides with the best Oxide of Iron and Linseed Oil Paint. The -size of sheets are 20 × 28 inches. <b>Tools.</b>—We send with each order one pair of -<i>Metal Shears</i>, one <i>Mallet</i>, and a <i>Draw Tool</i>, for which we make a charge of two -dollars. These tools can be returned to us by express at our expense, and the -purchaser credited, or the money paid for them returned. <b>Important Improvements</b> -in the manufacture of Steel Sheets enable us to put this on the -market at the same price as Sheet Iron Roofing, to which it is greatly superior. -<b>The Rib is formed</b> of the Walter’s Patent Lock, and is the same we have -used on our shingles for the last -seven years. This Lock has been -thoroughly tested, and it is significant -that over 25,000,000 square -feet of shingles constructed upon -this plan are already in use in the -United States and Canada. The -application of this Lock does away -with a very large proportion of the -work necessary in laying standing -seam roofs as ordinarily applied, -such as tonging up the seams, double seaming, capping or riveting the ribs, and -making and using cleats or other fastenings. This roofing costs no more than -wood shingles in sections where good timber is scarce. Each sheet is made -from plates 20 × 28 inches. <b>WRITE FOR PRICES.</b></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/illus53.jpg" width="300" height="150" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., 510-520 E. 20th St., N. Y. City.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">THE “ATTIC” SKY-LIGHT AND -VENTILATOR.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus54.jpg" width="300" height="100" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>This is a novelty in -roof ventilation, and possesses -the advantage of -admitting light as well as -ventilating rooms in the -garret or immediately under -the roof.</p> - -<p>It can be used on any kind of a slope roof having a pitch of -three inches or more to the foot. The front is of double strength -glass which is held to its place by a single catch. When used as a -ventilator the glass is drawn back to the slant of the roof, and sheds -what water would enter the opening during a rain storm. All the -carpenter work necessary in setting the “Attic” is to saw a square -hole through the roof boards at the time of putting on the roof-covering. -We make them to form one plate of our Broad Rib Roofing -with which it interlocks. As shown on <a href="#Page_55">page 55</a>, they can be -used equally as well on roofs to be covered with slate or wood -shingles as with our Tin Shingles.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW TO SET A FINIAL.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus55.jpg" width="200" height="250" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Bore a hole in the upper end of the -centre-staff and insert in it the lower end of -finial rod; when the centre-staff is put to -its place, plumb the finial rod by moving -the lower end of the centre-staff before it -is nailed to the floor or cross timbers. (<a href="#Page_74">See -page 74.</a>)</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/illus56.jpg" width="550" height="700" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">No. 1. <span class="spacer">No. 2.</span> <span class="spacer">No. 3.</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">NET PRICES: 5 Foot $12.00. 6 Foot $14.40. 7 Foot $16.80.</p> - -<p class="center">For either Round, Square or Octagon.</p> - -<p class="center">No. 1 includes all above the Shingles. (<a href="#Page_73">See page 73.</a>)</p> - -<p><b>There is no shoddy work about these Finials. They are heavy, -substantially made and zinc coated.</b></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus57.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SHIPPING DEPARTMENT</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus58.jpg" width="500" height="250" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">COOPERS CROOKS.</p> -</div> - -<p class="center">(Patented August 20th, 1889.)</p> - -<p class="center">Complete and in Sections. Fixed and Adjustable.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>The most Perfect Machine-made Elbow ever manufactured.</i></p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>First-class Finish.</b>—Each piece is a perfect section of a curved -tube.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>A Convenience.</b>—The sections can be put together to form any -angle.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>Durable and Strong.</b>—The finished elbows are redipped after -being locked and riveted.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>Quality.</b>—Both Retinned and Galvanized.</p> - -<p>Perfect in fitting, uniform in size and quality. Just what the -practical tinsmith should use for conductors and vent pipes.</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc br">ADJUSTABLE.</td> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc br">FIXED.</td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">IN SECTIONS.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">Size.</td> - <td class="tdc">Tin.</td> - <td class="tdc br">Galv’d.</td> - <td class="tdc">Size.</td> - <td class="tdc">Tin.</td> - <td class="tdc br">Galv’d.</td> - <td class="tdc">Size.</td> - <td class="tdc">Tin.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>3 inch</td> - <td class="tdr">$1.55</td> - <td class="tdr br">$2.00</td> - <td>3 inch</td> - <td class="tdr">$2.00</td> - <td class="tdr br">$2.00</td> - <td>3 inch</td> - <td class="tdr">$1.45</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>4 inch</td> - <td class="tdr">2.80</td> - <td class="tdr br">3.90</td> - <td>4 inch</td> - <td class="tdr">3.90</td> - <td class="tdr br">3.90</td> - <td>4 inch</td> - <td class="tdr">2.50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="8" class="tdc"><i>Discount</i>..........................</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center">MANUFACTURED ONLY BY<br /> -THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">WEIGHTS.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Our goods weigh, when boxed ready for shipment, as follows:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">14 × 20,</td> - <td>No. 1, Standard</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">84</span></td> - <td>lbs.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">10 × 14,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">92</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">7 × 10,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">89</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">14 × 20,</td> - <td>No. 2, Steel</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">83</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">10 × 14,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">89</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">14 × 20,</td> - <td>No. 3, M. F.</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">100</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">10 × 14,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">108</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">7 × 10,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">108</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">14 × 20,</td> - <td style="width: 15em;">No. 4, Galvanized</td> - <td class="tdr">104½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">10 × 14,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr">109½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">7 × 10,</td> - <td><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span></td> - <td class="tdr">109½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Queen Anne, No. 6, Standard</td> - <td class="tdr">121½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto2">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Galvanized</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">144</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Broad Rib, No. 8, Standard</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">88</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class="ditto2">“</span> <span class="ditto2">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Steel</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">87</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. Climax Ridge Coping, Tin</td> - <td class="tdr">56½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. <span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> <span class="ditto">“</span> Galvanized</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">71</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. Hip, Tin</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">38</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. <span class="ditto2">“</span> Galvanized</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">43</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. Valley, Tin</td> - <td class="tdr">45½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. <span class="ditto">“</span> Galvanized</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">53</span></td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. Gable, Tin</td> - <td class="tdr">12½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">50 ft. <span class="ditto">“</span> Galvanized</td> - <td class="tdr">15½</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">HOW METAL SHINGLES ARE MADE.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Shingles made from wood have been common all over the world -for ages. Their particular form has remained unchanged because -many years’ experience has proven it to be the most durable and surest -safe-guard against storms. What is true of wood for roof covering is -equally true of metal for the same purpose. The first metal roofing -made in America was tin sheets, laid shingle fashion, the overlapped -edges of which covered the nail heads which were used to fasten -them to the roof boards. Many of these old-fashioned metal (tin -plate) roofs are yet in existence that were covered over one hundred -years ago. The writer covered several houses in 1849 in this manner, -which are in good condition now. The reason why this style of metal -roofing was not common was its expense. On <a href="#Page_16">page 16</a> we give -reasons why it would be more durable than the ordinary mode of -laying tin roofing.</p> - -<p>The use of Walter’s and Cooper’s patent in constructing metal -shingles does away with the expense, which was a great drawback to -their use, and leaves no excuse for the use of cheap, combustible -material.</p> - -<p>The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., of New York City, have -for the past eight years been manufacturing these shingles, and their -use on a vast number of public and private buildings in all parts of -the United States and Canada attest their superiority. Thinking -that our readers would be pleased to see the process of making -these shingles, we illustrate on <a href="#Page_65">pages 65</a> and <a href="#Page_75">75</a> views taken from -photographs of their paint and store room. The process requires -two press operations for each shingle, and each press averages a -turn out of 4,000 square feet (which is 40 squares) per day. The -dies which give shape and form the corrugations of the shingles -are faced with polished steel, which leaves no abrasions where they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span> -come in contact with the metal. During the past year they have -added four new presses to this department to meet the requirements -of the increased demand for their goods. They spare no pains to -make their shingles as perfect as the best machinery can make them. -All their shingles are carefully inspected before they are boxed and -sent to the store room, from which they are shipped to all parts of -the country. The machinery room in which the presses are located -is 37 feet wide by 80 feet long, the painting department is 80 × 55 -feet, and the store room the same size. We give these figures that -you may form an opinion of the space required to manufacture and -handle their goods.</p> - -<p>The process of painting is first dipping the shingles in a vat of -pure linseed oil and oxide of iron paint with just enough turpentine -to assist in drying. They are then set on edge and left to drain, -after which they are gone over with a brush and set in racks to dry, -which requires several days, according to the humidity of the atmosphere. -They are all air dried, no artificial heat being used. Their -customers are cordially invited to call at any time and see the process -of manufacturing.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Why don’t you mend your roof my man?”</div> - <div class="verse indent2">He drew him closer to the wall,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And answered with a lazy drawl:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">“When ’t rains so hard I never can.”</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Why don’t you mend it when it’s fair?”</div> - <div class="verse indent0">“Oh, then it doesn’t need repair!”</div> - <div class="verse indent2">He blandly said</div> - <div class="verse indent2">As he turned his head</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And shook the raindrops from his hair.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse right">From <i>The Metal Worker</i>.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> - -<div class="figmulti-bottom" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus59.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Walter’s Patent Standard Shingles.</span></p> -</div> - -<div class="figmulti-bottom" style="width: 380px;"> -<img src="images/illus60.jpg" width="300" height="225" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Cooper’s Patent Queen Anne Metallic Shingles.</span></p> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">PUBLIC BUILDINGS ON WHICH THE -ABOVE METAL SHINGLES ARE USED.</h2> - -</div> - -<h3>RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS.</h3> - -<ul> -<li>Independent Pres. Church, Savannah, Ga.</li> -<li>South-West Pres. Church, Omaha, Neb.</li> -<li>Methodist Church, Stony Point, N. Y.</li> -<li>Methodist Church, Graniteville, Conn.</li> -<li>Methodist Church, Broad River, Conn.</li> -<li>Asbury Methodist Church, Providence, R. I.</li> -<li>Second Methodist Church, Kingston, N. Y.</li> -<li>Pisgah Methodist Church, Pisgah, Md.</li> -<li>Methodist Church, Thomasville, Ga.</li> -<li>Elm St. Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>East Nashville Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Methodist Church, Manheim, Pa.</li> -<li>Roman Catholic Church, Trinidad, Col.</li> -<li>Roman Catholic Church, Albuquerque, New Mexico.</li> -<li>German Evangelical Church, New Harmony, Ind.</li> -<li>Holy Apostles’ P. E. Church, St. Clair, Pa.</li> -<li>R. C. Church of St. Cecelia, N. Y. City.</li> -<li>R. C. Apostolic Church, Toronto, Ont.</li> -<li>St. Patrick’s R. C. Cathedral, Ottawa, Canada.</li> -<li>Baptist Church, Tura, India.</li> -<li>Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass.</li> -<li>Second Baptist Church, Lawrence, Mass.</li> -<li>Berkeley Ave. Bap. Church, Berkeley, Va.</li> -<li>Baptist Church, Danbury, Conn.</li> -<li>Colored Baptist Church, Augusta, Ga.</li> -<li>Christ Episcopal Church, Richmond, Va.</li> -<li>St. John’s Epis. Church, Richmond, Va.</li> -<li>Christ Episcopal Church, Port Tobacco, Md.</li> -<li>St. Clement’s Episcopal Church, Chicago, Ill.<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span></p></li> -<li>Mission Church, Aintab, Turkey.</li> -<li>Mission Church, Kiota, Japan.</li> -<li>Bethany Chapel, Troy, N. Y.</li> -<li>Colonial Beach Chapel, Va.</li> -<li>Plymouth Church, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>M. E. Church, McMinville, Tenn.</li> -<li>First M. E. Church, Jackson, Mich.</li> -<li>Christian Church, Little Rock, Ark.</li> -<li>Second Baptist Church, Little Rock, Ark.</li> -<li>First Pres. Church, Gainesville, Fla.</li> -<li>M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb.</li> -<li>Round Hill Church, Va.</li> -<li>St. Paul Lutheran Church, Lititz, Pa.</li> -<li>Salvation Army Barracks, South Norwalk, Conn.</li> -<li>Methodist Church, Salt Lake City.</li> -<li>Christian Church, Belton, Texas.</li> -<li>Salvation Army Barracks, Matteawan, N. Y.</li> -<li>First Cong. Church, Daytona, Fla.</li> -<li>Jewish Synagogue, Brunswick, Ga.</li> -</ul> - -<h3>RAILROADS.</h3> - -<ul> -<li>Savannah, Florida and Western R. R.</li> -<li>North-Eastern R. R. of South Carolina.</li> -<li>Western and North Carolina R. R.</li> -<li>New York, Susquehanna and Western R. R.</li> -<li>Chesapeake and Ohio R. R.</li> -<li>Florida Railway & Navigation Company.</li> -<li>South Florida Railway.</li> -<li>Virginia Midland Railway.</li> -<li>Richmond and Danville R. R.</li> -<li>Newport News and Mississippi Valley R. R.</li> -<li>Chicago and Evanston R. R.</li> -<li>Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West R. R.</li> -<li>Interstate Rapid Transit Co., Kansas City, Mo.</li> -<li>Kansas City Cable Railway, Kansas City, Mo.</li> -<li>Union Passenger Railroad Co., Richmond, Va.</li> -<li>Franklin Avenue Line, St. Louis, Mo.</li> -<li>West Nashville Railroad Depot, West Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>St. Johns and Halifax R. R.</li> -<li>Maryland Central R. R.</li> -<li>Cornwall and Lebanon R. R. Co.</li> -</ul> - -<h3>EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.</h3> - -<ul> -<li>DePaw College, Greencastle, Ind.</li> -<li>Mississippi Industrial Institute and College, Columbus, Miss.</li> -<li>St. John’s College, Tremont, N. Y.</li> -<li>Las Vegas College, Las Vegas, New Mexico.</li> -<li>Loyola College, Collington, Md.</li> -<li>Woodstock College, Woodstock, Md.</li> -<li>Medical College, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Dayel College, Sparta, Tenn.</li> -<li>Dakota University, Mitchell, Dakota.</li> -<li>Public School, Richfield Springs, N. Y.</li> -<li>Public School, Greenville, Ky.</li> -<li>Public School, McCook, Neb.</li> -<li>Public School, Dodge City, Kansas.</li> -<li>Public School, Marion, Ill.</li> -<li>Public School, Elizabeth, Pa.</li> -<li>Public School, Freeport, Ill.</li> -<li>Public School, Paw Paw, Ill.</li> -<li>Public School, Hutchinson, Minn.</li> -<li>Thirteenth District School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Tenth District School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Thirteenth Ward Grammar School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Fogg High School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Caldwell High School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Tampa High School, Tampa, Fla.</li> -<li>Public School, Forward Township, Allegheny Co., Pa.</li> -<li>Tarbox School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Searight School, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Niagara Falls Museum, Niag. Falls, N. Y.</li> -</ul> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span></p> - -<h3>Hotels and State and County Buildings.</h3> - -<ul> -<li>Florida State Capitol, Tallahassee, Fla.</li> -<li>Washtenaw County Jail, Ann Arbor, Mich.</li> -<li>Bristol County House of Correction, New Bedford, Mass.</li> -<li>Government Penitentiary, Kingston, Ont.</li> -<li>Main Street Central Police Station, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>United States Soldiers’ Home, Leavenworth, Kansas.</li> -<li>Wm. Houston Home, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>Deaf and Dumb Institute, Jacksonville, Ill.</li> -<li>Insane Asylum, Fort Steilacoom, Wash. Terr.</li> -<li>United States Marine Barracks, Pensacola, Fla.</li> -<li>Colorado State Insane Asylum, Pueblo, Col.</li> -<li>Asylum for Feeble Minded, Beatrice, Neb.</li> -<li>Tenn. Insane Asylum, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>County Asylum, Sparta, Tenn.</li> -<li>City Hospital, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>Towers of Minneapolis Exhibition Building, Minneapolis, Minn.</li> -<li>Horticultural Hall, World’s Exposition, New Orleans, La.</li> -<li>Plymount County Agricultural Society Building, Brockton, Mass.</li> -<li>Public Library, Coldwater, Mich.</li> -<li>Fair Association Buildings, St. Louis, Mo.</li> -<li>Grand Army of the Republic Hall, Janesville, Iowa.</li> -<li>Caledonian Rink, Ottawa, Canada.</li> -<li>Park Building, West Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Concordia Association Building, Little Rock, Ark.</li> -<li>U. S. Commissioners’ Building, Salt Lake City, Utah.</li> -<li>Board of Trade Bldg., Little Rock, Ark.</li> -<li>Exchange Building, West Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Lyons Water Works Buildings, Lyons, N. Y.</li> -<li>Water Works Buildings, Battle Creek, Mich.</li> -<li>City Water Works Buildings, Ottawa, Canada.</li> -<li>Barclay St. Ferry House, New York City.</li> -<li>Oakland Mills, Taunton, Mass.</li> -<li>I. O. O. F. Building, Port Clinton, Ohio.</li> -<li>I. O. O. F. Building, Savannah, Ga.</li> -<li>Masonic Temple, Savannah, Ga.</li> -<li>Masonic Temple, Daytona, Fla.</li> -<li>Union County Court House, Union, S. C.</li> -<li>Ford County Court House, Dodge City, Kansas.</li> -<li>Ontonogan County Building, Houghton, Mich.</li> -<li>Court House, Jonesborough, Ark.</li> -<li>Hamilton County Court House, Texas.</li> -<li>Menard County Court House, Texas.</li> -<li>H. I. Kimball Hotel, Atlanta, Ga.</li> -<li>Burlington Hotel, Burlington, Vermont.</li> -<li>Fayetteville Hotel, Fayetteville, N. C.</li> -<li>Mitchell Hotel, Thomasville, Ga.</li> -<li>Arlington Hotel, Augusta, Ga.</li> -<li>Summerville Hotel, Augusta, Ga.</li> -<li>Cottage Hotel, Nunda, N. Y.</li> -<li>City Hotel, Beatrice, Neb.</li> -<li>Opera House, Junction City, Kansas.</li> -<li>Grand Opera House, St. Louis, Mo.</li> -<li>Overland Casino, Nashville, Tenn.</li> -<li>Opera House, Tavares, Fla.</li> -<li>North River Steamboat Co., Haverstraw, N. Y.</li> -<li>New Central Station, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>Lower Station House Stables, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>Mechanics’ Union Hall, No. 1, Charleston, S. C.</li> -<li>Oneida County Asylum, Rome, N. Y.</li> -<li>Wheeler Elevator, Buffalo, N. Y.</li> -<li>Ontario Elevator, Buffalo, N. Y.</li> -<li>A. W. Stevens & Son, Auburn, N. Y.</li> -<li>City Buildings, Taunton, Mass.</li> -<li>I. O. U. W. Hall, New Harmony, Ind.</li> -<li>Opera House, New Harmony, Ind.</li> -</ul> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">INSIDE CONSTRUCTION.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>By this we do not mean the arrangement or size of rooms, they -may be large or very small, and in either instance lack the conveniences -which may always be provided for by good construction. Even -a small house can have transoms over all the doors which open into -a hall, proper ventilating flues for all rooms, and a kitchen that will -be comfortable in all seasons, (see articles under the head of “Ventilation” -and “The Kitchen.”) These are essential; all dwellings, large or -small, should have them. The windows and doors should be arranged -to suit the furniture to be used. You have doubtless seen rooms with -windows on two sides, a door and fire-place on the other. This -arrangement makes it impossible for the room to contain an ordinary -size bedstead, without placing it before a window or some other -opening. Study these things when getting up plans for your house.</p> - -<p>The dining room should be light and roomy, fronting the East -if possible, as the morning sun is always desirable, and adds much -to the cheerfulness of the family. The kitchen should not connect -directly with the dining-room. Construct a passage-way, well ventilated, -between the two rooms; this will prevent unsavory odors entering -the dining-room. The space at each end of the passage can be -utilized for the kitchen closets. Arrange your rooms so that you -will not be compelled to pass through one room to get to another. -Do not disfigure the walls by driving nails or hooks into the plastering -for the purpose of hanging pictures, but fasten a neat gilt moulding -to the side walls all around the room, about one foot from the -ceiling. The moulding should be about one and one-half or two -inches wide, with a groove on its upper side. Hooks shaped as an S -can be placed at any point on this moulding, and the pictures are to -be hung to these hooks. This arrangement is somewhat expensive, -but it is the only proper way in which pictures can be hung.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span></p> - -<p>Closets.—No house is complete without ample closets. Every -lady knows that clothing and wraps cannot be stored away in drawers, -and look well when wanted for use. As closets are expensive we -suggest for small houses, that a room be constructed from four to six -feet wide, and from ten to fifteen feet long, with a window at one -end. Make shelves on one side, and place suitable clothes hooks on -the other. In such a room the entire wardrobe and family linen can -be properly stored. If you desire a moth-proof room, the ceiling, -walls and shelves should be made of red cedar. We suggest this -clothes room because of its cheapness. Each bedroom of large houses -should be provided with a clothes closet, which should be lined with -red cedar for the reasons above stated.</p> - -<p>Don’t forget to have windows and all outside doors fitted up -with light sash and frames covered with woven wire cloth. This -material is very cheap, and can be purchased at any house-furnishing -goods store. Its use prevents mosquitoes and flies from entering the -house. Freedom from these summer pests will amply repay you for -the expense. During the late fall, winter and spring months, the -sash and frames can be removed; they should be stored in some perfectly -dry place, such as a garret, never in a cellar. Speaking of -pests reminds us of another kind that breed in cracks and crevices -found in most kitchens, which might lead a thoughtful man to suppose -that the builder, in his kindness of heart, provided these little -hiding places for just such creatures. If you don’t want them, see -that there are no cracks left between the wood-work and plastering, -or in any part of the floor or walls of the kitchen. Fill with cement -(Plaster of Paris is good) all cracks caused by shrinkage of wood-work -after the walls are completed and are thoroughly dry.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">SHEET METAL WORK FOR PUBLIC AND -PRIVATE BUILDINGS.</h2> - -</div> - -<h3>GUTTERS, VALLEYS AND DOWN PIPES.</h3> - -<p>These things are very closely related to the roof, and like it -should be of the best material.</p> - -<p>A tin gutter hung at the eaves has the advantage of being cheap; -if made of good material and put up with good fastenings is durable, -and suitable for cheap houses and some portions of expensive ones.</p> - -<p>In all cases where the fastenings are to hang from the roof, the -gutter should be put up before the roof covering is put on, so the -fastenings can be secured to the roof boards instead of on top of the -tin, slate or wood shingles. If the fastenings are nailed on top of the -roof covering, the nails soon become loose, and the gutter sags. The -tinsmith will charge no more for doing his work before the roofers -commence, but it may delay you a day. Paint the gutter inside as well -as out, and see that it has sufficient fall to clear itself of water. If you -prefer the gutter on the roof near the eaves, let the sheets of which it -is made be of sufficient width to extend far enough up under the -roof covering to prevent water (when the gutter is full) from overflowing -at the back instead of over at the front; this is a common -error. In every instance let this top gutter be outside the wall line, -so in case of leakage the “drip” is outside the walls. Gutters of -this kind, and all gutters that are soldered and firmly fastened to roof -boards (not hanging gutters), are liable to crack by expansion and -contraction of the metal; we therefore say, never put a gutter inside -the wall lines if they can be put outside. Valleys formed by the -joining of two roofs at an angle are usually steep enough to allow<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> -the metal sheets to lap on each other and shed water without soldering. -Such sheets are usually made twenty-eight inches long. Their -shortness prevents cracking from expansion and contraction even if -nailed to roof boards. Remember that all trash or dirt that settles -on the roof eventually finds its way into the valleys, gutters and -down pipes, and in a manner scours their surface; for this reason -they receive several fold more wear than the same amount of -exposed surface of the roof, consequently, should be of better -material. Few people are aware of the amount of dirt and sand -which is carried by the wind and deposited on their house-tops; for -this reason, if the water is used for drinking or cooking purposes, the -first water that flows from the roof during a rain storm should not be -allowed to flow into the cistern.</p> - -<p>It is always best to have good sized down pipes. As a rule, for -down pipes from hanging gutters, let the circumference of the pipe -equal the girt of the gutter, and the gutter should be large enough -to convey the water which falls on the roof during the heaviest -storms. Use only curved elbows where a turn in the pipe is to be -made, and at the foot or discharge end. Curved elbows are now made -by machinery; they are stronger, more durable and cost no more -than the common hand-made acute kind.</p> - -<p>We have spoken of good material; but what is good material -when Tin Plate is spoken of? The quality of Tin Plate depends on -its toughness, and the weight of Tin or Terne coating on its surface. -The first is easily determined by bending back and forth with the -hand, the latter is not, unless handled by an expert. The following -test will determine the difference, provided you have different qualities. -If the qualities are the same, or nearly so, the difference will -not be distinguishable.</p> - -<p>Take two pieces of different quality of Tin or Terne plates, say -two inches square, grease one side with any kind of animal fat; then -with a pair of plyers, hold them separately over a gas or candle jet -with one corner obliquely downward, and the amount of fusible -metal which flows from them will determine the difference between -good and common.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">TESTIMONIALS.</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">St. Louis, Mo.</span>, April 26th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We have used your Walter’s Metal Shingles on the most -prominent buildings of our city, all of which have given universal satisfaction -both in appearance and durability. As for us, we can say we give them the -preference above all others knowing that when once up there is none its equal.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">MESKER BROS.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Augusta, Ga.</span>, April 30th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I have in the past six years used and carefully compared all -the leading makes of Patent Metallic Shingles, and I unhesitatingly pronounce -your Walter’s Patent the best shingle on the market. They are simple, and -easy to put on, and for a handsome, light and durable roof they are without -a parallel. I have used them on many public as well as private buildings in -this city, and they have in all instances given the highest possible satisfaction, -which <i>has won me the esteem and confidence of the public</i>.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">DAVID SLUSKY.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Las Vegas College, Las Vegas, N. M.</span>, April 29th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I am glad to inform you that we are very well satisfied with -the Walter’s Metal Shingles with which the new stone addition of our college -is covered. It is about three years since the roof was laid, and your shingles -are keeping yet a very neat and nice appearance, defying bravely the eating -and inclemency of the weather.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">C. M. CAPILUPI, <i>S. J.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Office of Superintendent, DePaw University, Green Castle, Ind.</span>, April 30th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We beg to say that your Walter’s Shingles with which our -college buildings are covered are very satisfactory.</p> - -<p class="right">E. T. CHAFFEE, Sup’t.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Colorado State Insane Asylum, Pueblo, Col.</span>, April 27th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I wish to say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles, -with which our buildings are covered, we believe to be superior to anything -heretofore introduced in the West in that line.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">P. R. THOMBS, Sup’t.</p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Daytona, Fla.</span>, April 27th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the First Congregational -Church at this place. As to durability, the roof has been on now -about three years, and seems as good as the day it was put on. Its appearance -is beautiful, and its rain shedding qualities are perfect. We like the -roof first rate, and can conscientiously recommend them to others.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">CHAS. M. BINGHAM, Pastor.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Ithaca, N. Y.</span>, April 28th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We have put the Walter’s Metallic Shingles upon many -buildings in Ithaca, and in each instance our customers have been perfectly -satisfied. In our opinion they are the most durable roof we have handled. -The writer has his house covered with the Galvanized Tin Shingles, and -believes he has the most durable roof in Ithaca, because they need no -painting, or care of any kind whatever. While costing more at the start, in -the end the matter of economy is with the Walter’s Shingles.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">C. J. RUMSEY & CO.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Taunton, Mass.</span>, April 25th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We have used in less than two years about 800 squares of -your Metallic Shingles, and they have given the best of satisfaction in every -case, and in our opinion are far ahead in durability and appearance of either -slate or wooden shingles.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">N. CRAPO & BRO.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass.</span>, May 5th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We are in every way fully satisfied with the Walter’s Metal -Shingles which you put on the roof of our church two years ago. It would -be difficult to desire a superior roofing.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">J. K. WILSON, Pastor.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Centenarian M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb.</span>, May 2d, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I consider the Walter’s Metal Shingle an improvement over -anything of the past; superior to slate in appearance; of less weight and cost, -and just as durable. When properly put in place it can but give the best of -satisfaction. Can heartily recommend it.</p> - -<p class="center">Respectfully,</p> - -<p class="right">A. C. CALKINS, Pastor.</p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Matteawan, N. Y.</span>, April 25th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I take great pleasure in giving my unprejudiced opinion of -Walter’s Metallic Shingles. I have been using them for the last three years, -and have never had any fault found with them of all the roofs that I have put -on, and I have had good practical tinners proclaim to me that they consider -it the best tin roofing they have ever seen. It is <i>the</i> roof for me when I am -building myself. Any person adopting this roof, by giving it a coat of -metallic paint every five years, I will warrant them to have a tight roof for -two generations.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">SAM’L McKEE.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Minneapolis, Minn.</span>, April 27th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I have put on in the Northwest large amounts of your -Metallic Shingles for others, and also covered my own residence some five -years ago, and can heartily recommend your goods to any one desiring a substantial -and absolutely tight roof of fine appearance, which gives a roof much -better than slate and a lower price.</p> - -<p class="center">Most respectfully yours,</p> - -<p class="right">M. H. CRITTENDEN.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Ann Arbor, Mich.</span>, May 4th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—My roof was the first one in this city on which your tin -shingles were used, and they have given entire satisfaction. I would not -exchange it for any other roof that I know of.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">GEO. W. MOORE.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Milford, Delaware</span>, May 10th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Would say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles, put -on the Electric Light Station in this town, by W. P. Cullen, are giving entire -satisfaction, making a handsome and durable roof, much preferable in our -judgment to the regular tin roofs usually put on such buildings.</p> - -<p class="center">Very truly yours,</p> - -<p class="right">W. T. JOHNSON.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">New Milford, Del.</span>, May 15th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Perhaps it may be of interest to you to know my views of the Tin Shingle -Roofing purchased of W. P. Cullen, of Milford, Del. I can recommend in -the highest degree their use, as they possess many advantages over any other -material used for that purpose. They require no skilled labor, and are as -durable as any tin roof can possibly be. I have watched it during every rainstorm -since it was laid, and not one drop has passed through it to my gratification, -and to the credit of the inventor. I invite the inspection of any one -who may contemplate putting on a roof upon any building.</p> - -<p class="center">Respectfully,</p> - -<p class="right">P. H. STORM.</p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Brockton, Mass.</span>, April 27th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Two years ago the Brockton Agricultural Society covered -the roof of their main building with your tin shingles, and I am pleased to -inform you that they have given perfect satisfaction.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">H. W. ROBINSON, President.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Church of the Holy Apostles, St. Clair, Pa.</span>, April 25th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles have been the covering -to the Rectory of this church since September, 1885. They were put on by -novices under disadvantageous circumstances, and have withstood every test -that a Pennsylvania mountainous district changeable weather could give. I -talk tin shingles to all my friends.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">CHAS. A. MARKS, Rector.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Natchez, Miss.</span>, February 16th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I have been in the tin roofing business for the past 20 years, -and I believe that the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles make the best tin roofing -of any of the other patents that are now on the market. I have put on hundreds -of squares of them, and they have given me and the property owners -entire satisfaction. I will further say that each box of shingles I have bought -from them has covered one hundred square feet of roof, which will be understood -by tinners to be a great satisfaction in ordering roofing, as the rule is -that patent roofing falls short after being laid. I have often been asked by -different manufacturing companies for my opinion of the roofing that they -manufacture, but this is the first time that I have ever given my opinion, and -I would not give my opinion now if the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles did -not deserve it.</p> - -<p class="center">I am, yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">P. W. MULVIHILL.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Baton Rouge, La.</span>, February 24th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I beg to say that I have used the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles -for some time, and they have given satisfaction. I think they make the -best roofing that can be put on for the money.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">M. J. WILLIAMS.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Milford, Del.</span>, May 4th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—This is to say that I have used several thousand shingles of -Walter’s Patent on our roof at the Phosphate Factory, put on by W. P. Cullen, -and up to this time not a single drop of water or a weight of snow has drifted -through it, and if kept properly painted, I believe the roof will last as long -as any person could wish it to.</p> - -<p class="right">W. I. SIMPSON.</p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Canajoharie, N. Y.</span>, May 10th, 1888.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Having Walter’s Metal Shingles on two of my buildings, -put on by F. H. Hodge, the new <i>Courier</i> building being sided with them, I -feel that I am competent to speak of the merits of the shingles. My experience -has been entirely satisfactory, and I regard the Metallic Shingles as the -best roofing and siding extant. If I were to build a hundred houses, and it -were possible to use these shingles, I would not hesitate one moment, as I -regard them as cheaper and better than any other covering in the market.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours, &c.,</p> - -<p class="right">WILLET F. COOK.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Hospital for the Insane in Washington Territory, Fort Steilacoom, W. T.</span>, May 2d, 1888.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—This institution has passed two winters under cover of Walter’s -Metal Shingles. Our Winters are very wet, rain falling most of the -time, but there has been no leak. The shingles are, therefore, entirely satisfactory.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">JOHN W. WAUGHOP, M. D.<br /> -Sup’t Hospital Insane, W. T.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Woodstock College, Howard Co., Md.</span>, December 8th, 1886.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—It affords me much pleasure to indorse favorably the Walter’s -Patent Metallic Shingles. I have used them on our church buildings in Trinidad, -Colo., Albuquerque, N. M., and Woodstock, Md. In the first named -place they have been in use over two years, and have withstood, without detriment, -the very high winds and occasional driving storms of rain and snow for -which that State is so remarkable. In the other places they are also giving satisfaction -in every respect.</p> - -<p>I consider a roof of this material far superior to the ordinary tin or iron, -both in beauty of design and solidity of construction, and see no reason why it -should not supersede slate, as it is far less costly, requires a lighter frame, is -just as much fire or storm-proof, and equally durable if kept painted.</p> - -<p>Hoping your goods may elicit the patronage they justly deserve, I beg to -remain, gentlemen,</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">EDWARD BARRY, <i>S. J.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Auburn, N. Y.</span>, November 26th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Your esteemed favor of the 16th duly to hand; by reason of -Mr. Stevens’ absence from town, has not had earlier reply. We take great -pleasure in speaking a good word for the new roofing we purchased of your -house; we find it all it was recommended to be. The condition in which it came -to us rendered it very easy to place upon the roof. It makes a tight and substantial -roof, one which we believe will be as durable as anything we have ever -seen. We remain, with respect,</p> - -<p class="center">Yours very truly,</p> - -<p class="right">A. W. STEVENS & SON.</p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Penfield Center, N. Y.</span>, October 17th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I have used about sixty squares of your metal shingles this -year, and can say they excel any roof I have used. They are light, tight and -cannot help being a life-lasting roof, if they are taken care of.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">G. H. BACON.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Sherman, Texas</span>, October 28th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I have been contracting and building fifty years, 34 years in -North Texas. I recommend your metal roofing as the best I have ever used, -and that it gives perfect satisfaction, and if painted every five years it will last -a century.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">GEO. MELTON,<br /> -Architect and Builder.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">College of the Holy Cross, Worcester, Mass.</span></p> - -<p class="noindent">Mr. <span class="smcap">W. F. Wallace</span>, -Sec’y and Treas’r, Nat. Sheet Metal Roofing Co.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—Having used your Galvanized Tin Shingles largely in Maryland, -Connecticut and here, and recommended their use in other sections, I have no -hesitation in stating that everywhere the results have been completely satisfactory. -I shall continue to use the roofing in preference to any that I know.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours respectfully,</p> - -<p class="right">T. W. HAYES, <i>S. J.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rome, N. Y.</span>, November 4th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—Nearly two years ago I had the steeples of my church covered -with your Galvanized Metal Shingles. I have now no hesitation in stating that -in my judgment it is the best roofing material in the market. It is very ornamental, -and time seems to have no effect on it, as it still retains the same color. -So pleased were the citizens of this place with the work done on my church, -that many of them are now using the same material in roofing their houses.</p> - -<p class="right">A. MURPHY, Pastor.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Webster, N. Y.</span>, October 17th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—I have used your patent shingles on my grist mill and think -there is nothing better for fire, wind or weather. They are all right.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">B. SPERRY.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rome, N. Y.</span>, December 2d, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Metallic Shingles put on the roof of our new -church in this city, about four months ago, by Mr. James Conley, are in every -way satisfactory to our people, and the roof is admired by all who see it. I take -great pleasure in recommending your shingles to the public as the best material -for roofing that I have seen.</p> - -<p class="right">E. W. BRUCE,<br /> -Pastor and Chairman of Building Com.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span></p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rome, N. Y.</span>, November 5th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the steeples of the -Welsh Congregational Church, at this place, last summer, and it seems as good -as the day it was put on. Its appearance is beautiful and its rain-shedding -qualities are perfect. We like the steeple first rate and can conscientiously -recommend them to others. They need no painting or care of any kind whatever. -These were put on by Mr. James Conley, of Rome, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">D. E. PRICHARD, Pastor.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">James Thomas</span>, Sec’y.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rome, N. Y.</span>, December 6th, 1889.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Metallic Shingles were first brought to my notice -by Mr. James Conley, of this city, some two years ago, and I made a personal -examination and test of same, and have since specified and had them used in -preference on several buildings. They make a light, handsome and durable -roof, and I have yet to hear the first complaint.</p> - -<p class="center">Respectfully,</p> - -<p class="right">WM. H. DAVIES, Architect.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Council Grove, Kansas</span>, November 5th, 1889.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Jerome Twichell & Co.</span>, Kansas City, Mo.</p> - -<p>Gents:—Yours of the 25th at hand regarding the Walter’s Shingles. I purchased -in the spring the Walter’s Shingles and used them on my dwelling house. -I must say they make the best looking roof and the tightest roof I ever saw, and -they are easily laid. I am much pleased with them and can recommend them -very highly.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">THOS. J. HIGGINS,<br /> -Breeder of Hereford Cattle.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Junction City, Kansas</span>, October 29th, 1889.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Jerome Twichell & Co.</span>, Kansas City, Mo.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Replying to yours, 25th inst., we have used the Walter’s -Metallic Shingles on the large three-story building we occupy. This roof was -put on nearly two years ago: the roof has not shown any defects up to this time, -and if kept properly painted will last many years.</p> - -<p class="center">Very respectfully yours,</p> - -<p class="right">ZIEGLER HARDWARE CO.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kansas City</span>, October 26th, 1889.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Jerome Twichell & Co.</span>, Kansas City, Mo.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—In reply to yours I have no hesitation in pronouncing the -Walter’s Metallic Shingles a good roof. It has been on my two-story frame -house two years, and I have found it to be perfectly tight, keeps clean (an advantage -where cistern water is used) and adds greatly to the appearance of the -house.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">M. J. REILLY,<br /> -1308 Park Avenue.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span></p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Weston, Mo.</span>, October 31st, 1889.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Jerome Twichell & Co.</span>, Kansas City, Mo.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen:—Walter’s Metallic Shingles bought of you last May were put -on our school-house, and I am glad to state that they make a tight, handsome -and substantial roof. Everybody is pleased with it. I can recommend them to -all who want a tight and substantial roof.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Rev.</span> CHAS. SCHAAF,<br /> -Pastor of Catholic Church.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Hutchinson, Kansas</span>, October 26th, 1889.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Jerome Twichell & Co.</span>, Kansas City, Mo.</p> - -<p>Gents:—We have used almost all kinds of Metallic Shingles manufactured, -but find the Walter’s Shingle makes the best roof of any we have found. They -make a tight, ornamental and durable roof, and have never given us a particle -of trouble, and we are glad to recommend them to any one wanting a first-class -metallic roof.</p> - -<p class="center">Respectfully,</p> - -<p class="right">SWIFT, MANKOFF & CONGDON.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Trinidad, Colo.</span>, November 16th, 1889.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Jerome Twichell & Co.</span>, Kansas City, Mo.</p> - -<p>Dear Sirs:—We have used the Walter’s Patent Shingles to the satisfaction -of all concerned on the following buildings: Southern Hotel, South Side Public -School, Jewish Synagogue and several minor buildings. They undoubtedly -make a good roof.</p> - -<p class="center">Yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">SCHMIDT BROS.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="noindent">Mr. <span class="smcap">James Conley</span>, -<i>Agent</i>, Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles, Rome, N. Y.</p> - -<p>Dear Sir:—I take pleasure in commending the Walter’s Tin Shingles, as -applied to my house by you. As you will remember, the roof was not completed -in all its details when the winter set in last year, and, at my request, the -scaffolding was left on the different roofs, more for a test from banking of snow -and back-water, feeling assured that if the shingles survived the test, I would -never experience any trouble from that source, in the future, when the scaffolding -was removed. I was more than satisfied with the test, as we experienced -no trouble from leakage or from any other source. Therefore, I take great -pleasure in recommending the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles to whoever contemplates -using a metallic shingle for their buildings.</p> - -<p class="center">I remain, yours truly,</p> - -<p class="right">CHAS. WIGHAM,<br /> -House, 418 Floyd Ave., Rome, N. Y.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">OUR SPECIALTIES.</p> - -<p class="center">THE BEST OF THEIR KIND.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>METAL SHINGLES</b>, under the Walter’s and Cooper’s Patents, made -from Tin Plates, Tin Plate Galvanized, Steel Plates and Copper, have -no equal in the world for roof covering.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>CURVED ELBOWS.</b>—Fixed, adjustable and in sections. The most -perfect machine-made Elbow ever invented. Made from Tin Plate, Tin -Plate Re-tinned, and Tin Plate Galvanized. Perfect in form and fitting. -The best in the world.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>CONDUCTOR PIPE.</b>—Crimp expanding. Will not burst by freezing. -In sections twenty-eight inches long, which interlock with each other. -Two sizes, three and four inches diameter.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>WIRE NAILS.</b>—Made from Steel Wire. All sizes, both barbed and plain, -in kegs, at manufacturers’ prices.</p> - -<p class="hanging"><b>DRY PAINT.</b> (<b>Devils’ Red.</b>)—The very best Oxide of Iron. -This is NOT a Ready-Mixed Paint. It is Iron Ore, burnt until all -deleterious substances are destroyed, then pulverized and bolted. In -a word it is IRON RUST, it</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25em;"> - -<ul> -<li>MIXES readily with Linseed Oil,</li> -<li>FLOWS freely under the brush,</li> -<li>ADHERES tenaciously wherever applied.</li> -</ul> - -</div> - -<p class="center">Samples Mailed Free.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Write for Illustrated Catalogue and Prices.</span></p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING COMPANY,<br /> -510 to 520 <span class="smcap">East Twentieth Street</span>,<br /> -NEW YORK CITY.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"></a>[96]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus61.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">WIRE NAILS</p> -</div> - -<p class="center larger">STEEL WIRE NAILS</p> - -<p class="center">AT MANUFACTURERS’ PRICES.</p> - -<p class="center larger">All Kinds of Wire Nails, Plain or Barbed,</p> - -<p class="center smaller">FOR</p> - -<p class="hanging">Tin and Iron Roofing, Tin and Wooden Shingles, Slate and -Composition Roofing, Carpenters and Box Makers, Trunk -and Casket Makers, Builders and Contractors.</p> - -<p class="center">THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.<br /> -<span class="smcap">510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City</span>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"></a>[97]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/illus62.jpg" width="400" height="85" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">FRANK L. SMITH, Architect,</p> -</div> - -<p class="center"><i>22 SCHOOL STREET, (Room 10,) <span class="spacer">BOSTON, MASS.</span></i></p> - -<p class="titlepage"><b>Plans for Specifications Prepared for Buildings of every description. -Low Cost Suburban Dwellings a Specialty.</b></p> - -<p class="center"><i>Distance is no obstacle to my serving parties in all parts of the country. Correspondence Solicited.</i></p> - -<p class="titlepage smaller">PUBLISHER OF</p> - -<p class="center larger">A COSY HOME: How It was Built.</p> - -<p class="center smaller">A DISCUSSION OF THE VARIOUS METHODS AND MATERIALS -EMPLOYED IN ITS CONSTRUCTION.</p> - -<p>The book contains ninety-six pages, and is handsomely printed on heavy, -tinted paper. Is illustrated by designs of ten low-cost houses; first and second -floor plans and front and side elevations of each design are presented.</p> - -<p>It contains many valuable and practical suggestions for those who would -build economically, and who desire to obtain the greatest value for their money. -Most of the houses represented have been recently built in the vicinity of Boston, -and the estimated cost of executing each design is based upon actual figures.</p> - -<p>If you are interested in house planning and building, it will pay you to -send for this book. Sent post-paid, on receipt of price, <b>25c.</b></p> - -<p class="titlepage"><span class="larger">HOMES OF TO-DAY,</span><br /> -<span class="smaller">OR,</span><br /> -Modern Examples of Moderate Cost Houses.</p> - -<p>Published in four parts, quarterly. First and second parts now ready. -Volume will contain 240 pages, quarto size, showing designs of buildings to -cost from $250 upwards. Over 200 illustrations, full set of framing plans, -model specification, colored frontispiece, and valuable information for those -about to build. Four parts, post-paid, as issued, <b>$1.00</b>. Address,</p> - -<p class="center">F. L. SMITH, Architect, 22 School St., Boston, Mass.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"></a>[98]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<p class="caption">BRUCE & COOK</p> -<p class="caption">Nos. 248 & 250 PEARL ST</p> -<p class="caption">186. 188. & 190. WATER ST. N.Y.</p> -<img src="images/illus63.jpg" width="500" height="700" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">For Extra Roofing specify KILLEY EXTRA or LPL EXTRA.</p> -<p class="caption">Each Sheet stamped with Brand.</p> -<p class="caption">For Best Roofing specify TREGONING OLD PROCESS.</p> -<p class="caption">Each Sheet stamped with Brand.</p> -<p class="caption">CORRUGATED LEADERS. IXL VENTILATORS.</p> -<p class="caption">Eight Foot Seamless Eave Troughs and Gutters.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"></a>[99]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<p class="center larger"><b>NEPONSET WATERPROOF PAPER.</b></p> -<p class="caption">(Patented Dec. 28, 1885.)</p> -<img src="images/illus64.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center larger"><b>No. 1 Neponset Rope Roofing.</b></p> - -<p>For a first-class covering use our No. 1 and No. 2 <span class="smcap">Neponset -Rope Roofing</span>. This will make a permanent covering at a low cost.</p> - -<p class="center larger"><b>Black Neponset Building.</b></p> - -<p>This is without exception the best building paper in the market. -Cheaper and better than tarred paper. Will save fuel.</p> - -<p class="center">For Sale by all Dealers.</p> - -<p class="center">Manufactured solely by<br /> -F. W. BIRD & SON, East Walpole, Mass.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"></a>[100]</span></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/illus65.jpg" width="250" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">STEAM AND WARM AIR COMBINED</p> -</div> - -<p class="center">THE<br /> -<span class="larger">ECONOMY</span><br /> -COMBINATION<br /> -Steam and Warm Air Heater.</p> - -<p><b>A Low Pressure Apparatus.</b> Radiates Steam Heat -with from ½ to 3 pounds pressure. <b>One fire generates -both Warm Air and Steam, Increasing its capacity 25 per -cent. over any All-Steam Heater made.</b> The drafts are -automatically regulated by the steam pressure.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Our Systems of Warming Buildings with Steam Radiation -and Warm Air insure</i></p> - -<p class="center">Perfect Ventilation,</p> - -<p class="center"><i>And guarantee a uniform and healthful temperature throughout the house</i>.</p> - -<p class="center larger clearboth">THE “ECONOMY”</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus66.jpg" width="300" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">The Double Radiator Economy Warm-Air Furnace.</p> -</div> - -<p class="center">Warm-Air Furnaces</p> - -<p class="noindent">Have a reputation that is neither excelled nor -equalled for <b>Durability, Power and -Economy</b>, and are guaranteed in every respect.</p> - -<p class="center">SEND FOR CATALOGUE</p> - -<p class="noindent">giving full particulars, descriptions and illustrations -of 31 different styles and sizes of Heaters.</p> - -<p class="center">Manufactured solely by the</p> - -<p class="center">J. F. PEASE FURNACE CO.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Syracuse, N. Y.</span>, <span class="smcap">Toronto, Ont.</span>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">75 Union Street, Boston</span>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">177 East Randolph Street, Chicago</span>.</p> - -<p class="center">EARL B. CHACE & CO.<br /> -<span class="smcap">General N. Y. Managers</span>,<br /> -<i>206 Water St., New York</i>.</p> - -<p class="center">Estimates for Warming Buildings Promptly Furnished.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"></a>[101]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger"><span class="u">PAINT! PAINT!! PAINT!!!</span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/illus67.jpg" width="200" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">YOUR HOUSE-TOPS,<br /> -BARNS, and<br /> -OUTHOUSES,</p> - -<p class="center">Paint! Paint!! Paint!!!</p> - -<p class="center">WITH</p> - -<p class="center larger"><b>DEVILS’ RED</b></p> - -<p class="center">THE BEST OXIDE OF IRON,</p> - -<p class="noindent"><b>GROUND</b> to an Impalpable Powder</p> - -<p class="noindent"><b>READY</b> to mix with Linseed Oil</p> - -<p class="noindent"><b>WITHOUT</b> any other ingredient.</p> - -<p>If you want the very best results from <b>OXIDE OF IRON, mix -only with Linseed Oil</b>.</p> - -<p>If you want a cheap, vile compound often sold for Paint, mix Oxide of -Iron, Benzine, and a “<span class="smcap">leetle</span>” Oil.</p> - -<p><b>DEVILS’ RED</b> IS NOT a Ready-Mixed Paint. It is Iron Ore -burnt until all deleterious substances are destroyed, -then pulverized and bolted.</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>In a word it is <b>Iron Rust</b>, it</td> - <td><b>MIXES</b> readily with Linseed Oil,</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td><b>FLOWS</b> freely under the brush,</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td><b>ADHERES</b> tenaciously wherever applied.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center"><b>DEVILS’ RED</b> is For Sale to the Trade,<br /> -<span class="smaller">ONLY BY</span><br /> -THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.<br /> -510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City,</p> - -<p class="center">In Packages of 25 lbs., 60c.; 50 lbs., $1.00; 100 lbs., $1.75.</p> - -<p class="center">Special Prices by the Barrel. <span class="spacer">Samples Mailed Free.</span></p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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